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diff --git a/old/64549-0.txt b/old/64549-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index ecebf82..0000000 --- a/old/64549-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6229 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of My Arctic journal, by Josephine -Diebitsch-Peary - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: My Arctic journal - a year among ice-fields and Eskimos - -Author: Josephine Diebitsch-Peary - -Contributor: Robert E. Peary - -Release Date: February 14, 2021 [eBook #64549] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Richard Tonsing and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team - at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY ARCTIC JOURNAL *** - -[Illustration: - - TAKING ON AN ESKIMO PILOT. -] - - - - - MY ARCTIC JOURNAL - A YEAR AMONG ICE-FIELDS AND ESKIMOS - - - BY - - JOSEPHINE DIEBITSCH-PEARY - - - WITH AN ACCOUNT OF - - THE GREAT WHITE JOURNEY - ACROSS GREENLAND - - - BY - - ROBERT E. PEARY - - CIVIL ENGINEER, U. S. NAVY - - - LONDON - LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. - 1894 - - _All rights reserved_ - - - - - THE DE VINNE PRESS, NEW YORK, U. S. A. - - - - - _INTRODUCTORY NOTE_ - - -_On June 6, 1891, the steam-whaler “Kite,” which was to bear the -expedition of the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences northward, -set sail from the port of New-York, her destination being Whale Sound, -on the northwest coast of Greenland, where it had been determined to -pass the winter, preliminary to the long traverse of the inland ice -which was to solve the question of the extension of Greenland in the -direction of the Pole. The members of the expedition numbered but five -besides the commander, Mr. Peary, and his wife. They were Dr. F. A. -Cook, Messrs. Langdon Gibson, Eivind Astrup, and John T. Verhoeff, and -Mr. Peary’s faithful colored attendant in his surveying labors in -Nicaragua, Matthew Henson. This was the smallest number that had ever -been banded together for extended explorations in the high Arctic zone. -A year and a quarter after their departure, with the aid of a relief -expedition conducted by Professor Angelo Heilprin, Mr. Peary’s party, -lacking one of its members, the unfortunate Mr. Verhoeff, returned to -the American shore. The explorer had traversed northern Greenland from -coast to coast, and had added a remarkable chapter to the history of -Arctic exploration._ - -_The main results of Mr. Peary’s journey were:_ - -_The determination of the rapid convergence of the shores of Greenland -above the 78th parallel of latitude, and consequently the practical -demonstration of the insularity of this great land-mass;_ - -_The discovery of the existence of ice-free land-masses to the northward -of Greenland; and_ - -_The delineation of the northward extension of the great Greenland -ice-cap._ - -_In the following pages Mrs. Peary recounts her experiences of a full -twelvemonth spent on the shores of McCormick Bay, midway between the -Arctic Circle and the North Pole. The Eskimos with whom she came in -contact belong to a little tribe of about three hundred and fifty -individuals, completely isolated from the rest of the world. They are -separated by hundreds of miles from their nearest neighbors, with whom -they have no intercourse whatever. These people had never seen a white -woman, and some of them had never beheld a civilized being. The -opportunities which Mrs. Peary had of observing their manners and mode -of life have enabled her to make a valuable contribution to ethnological -learning._ - - _THE PUBLISHERS._ - - - - - PREFACE - - -This plain and simple narrative of a year spent by a refined woman in -the realm of the dreaded Frost King has been written only after -persistent and urgent pressure from friends, by one who shrank from -publicity, and who reluctantly yielded to the idea that her experiences -might be of interest to others besides her immediate friends. - -I have been requested to write a few words of introduction; and while -there may be some to whom it might occur that I was too much interested -to perform this task properly, it must nevertheless be admitted that -there is probably no one better fitted than myself to do it. Little, -indeed, need be said. - -The feeling that led Mrs. Peary through these experiences was first and -foremost a desire to be by my side, coupled with the conviction that she -was fitted physically as well as otherwise to share with me a portion at -least of the fatigues and hardships of the work. I fully concurred in -this feeling, and yet, in spite of my oft-expressed view that the -dangers of life and work in the Arctic regions have been greatly -exaggerated, I cannot but admire her courage. She has been where no -white woman has ever been, and where many a man has hesitated to go; and -she has seen phases of the life of the most northerly tribe of human -beings on the globe, and in many ways has been enabled to get a closer -insight into their ways and customs than had been obtained before. - -I rarely, if ever, take up the thread of our Arctic experiences without -reverting to two pictures: one is the first night that we spent on the -Greenland shore after the departure of the “Kite,” when, in a little -tent on the rocks—a tent which the furious wind threatened every moment -to carry away bodily—she watched by my side as I lay a helpless cripple -with a broken leg, our small party the only human beings on that shore, -and the little “Kite,” from which we had landed, drifted far out among -the ice by the storm, and invisible through the rain. Long afterward she -told me that every unwonted sound of the wind set her heart beating with -the thoughts of some hungry bear roaming along the shore and attracted -by the unusual sight of the tent; yet she never gave a sign at the time -of her fears, lest it should disturb me. - -The other picture is that of a scene perhaps a month or two later, -when—myself still a cripple, but not entirely helpless—this same woman -sat for an hour beside me in the stern of a boat, calmly reloading our -empty firearms while a herd of infuriated walrus about us thrust their -savage heads with gleaming tusks and bloodshot eyes out of the water -close to the muzzles of our rifles, so that she could have touched them -with her hand, in their efforts to get their tusks over the gunwale and -capsize the boat. I may perhaps be pardoned for saying that I never -think of these two experiences without a thrill of pride and admiration -for her pluck. - -In reading the pages of this narrative it should be remembered that -within sixty miles of where Kane and his little party endured such -untold sufferings, within eighty miles of where Greely’s men one by one -starved to death, and within less than fifty miles of where Hayes and -his party and one portion of the “Polaris” party underwent their Arctic -trials and tribulations, this tenderly nurtured woman lived for a year -in safety and comfort: in the summer-time climbed over the -lichen-covered rocks, picking flowers and singing familiar home songs, -shot deer, ptarmigan, and ducks in the valleys and lakes, and even tried -her hand at seal, walrus, and narwhal in the bays; and through the long, -dark winter night, with her nimble fingers and ready woman’s insight, -was of inestimable assistance in devising and perfecting the details of -the costumes which enabled Astrup and myself to make our journey across -the great ice-cap in actual comfort. - -Perhaps no greater or more convincing proof than this could be desired -of what great improvements have been made in Arctic methods. That -neither Mrs. Peary nor myself regret her Arctic experiences, or consider -them ill-advised, may be inferred from the fact that she is once more by -my side in my effort to throw more light on the great Arctic mystery. - - R. E. PEARY, - _Civil Engineer, U. S. N._ - - FALCON HARBOR, BOWDOIN BAY, - GREENLAND, August 20, 1893. - - - - - TABLE OF CONTENTS - - - PAGE - - NORTHWARD BOUND 9 - - IN THE MELVILLE BAY PACK 18 - - ESTABLISHING OURSELVES 31 - - HUNTS AND EXPLORATIONS 41 - - BOAT JOURNEYS AND PREPARATIONS FOR WINTER 54 - - WINTER UPON US 65 - - ESKIMO VISITORS 74 - - ARCTIC FESTIVITIES 84 - - THE NEW YEAR 101 - - SUNSHINE AND STORM 112 - - SLEDGE JOURNEY INTO INGLEFIELD GULF 124 - - THE SLEDGE JOURNEY—(_Continued_) 139 - - OFF FOR THE INLAND ICE 147 - - WEARY DAYS OF WAITING 156 - - MY CAMPING EXPERIENCE IN TOOKTOO VALLEY 168 - - “OOMIAKSOAK TIGALAY!” (THE SHIP HAS COME!) 176 - - RETURN OF THE EXPLORERS 182 - - BOAT JOURNEY INTO INGLEFIELD GULF 189 - - FAREWELL TO GREENLAND 200 - - GREENLAND REVISITED 211 - - THE GREAT WHITE JOURNEY 221 - - - - - CHAPTER I - NORTHWARD BOUND - - First Sight of Greenland—Frederikshaab Glacier—Across the Arctic - Circle—Perpetual Daylight—Sunlit Disko—The Climb to the - Ice-cap—Dinner at Inspector Anderssen’s—A Native Dance—From Disko to - Upernavik—Upernavik—The Governor and his Wife—The Duck - Islands—Gathering Eggs and Eider-down and Shooting Ducks. - - -Wednesday, June 24. We have sailed and tossed, have broken through the -ice-barriers of Belle Isle Straits, and once more ride the rolling -swells of the broad Atlantic. Our three days’ jam in the ice has given -us a foretaste of Arctic navigation, but the good little “Kite” speeds -northward with a confidence which inspires a feeling of security that -not even the famed “greyhounds of the ocean” afford. Genial Captain Pike -is on the bridge and off the bridge, and his keen eye is casting for the -land. When I came on deck to-day I found the bold, wild coast of -Greenland on the right. It was a grand sight—the steep, black cliffs, -some of them descending almost vertically to the sea, their tops covered -with dazzling snow, and the inland ice flowing through the depressions -between their summits; at the foot of the cliffs gleamed bergs of -various sizes and shapes, some of them a beautiful blue, others white as -snow. The feature of the day was the Frederikshaab glacier, which comes -down to the sea in latitude 62° 30′. It did not, however, impress me as -being very grand, owing perhaps to our being so far from it. Its face is -seventeen miles long, and we could see it like a wall of white marble -before us. Long after we had passed it, it still appeared to be with us, -and it kept us company nearly all day. Just beyond the glacier was -disclosed the most beautiful mountain scenery imaginable. The weather -was deliciously warm, and revealed to us a new aspect of Arctic climate. -It seems strange to be sitting on deck in a light coat, not even -buttoned, and only a cap on my head, in the most brilliant sunshine, and -gazing on snow-covered mountains. - -[Illustration: - - Out on the Billowy Sea. - - The First Fragment of Greenland Ice. -] - -[Illustration: - - Capt. Richard Pike—“On Duty.” -] - -Thursday, June 25. We were promised another lovely day, but after noon -the weather changed and a cool wind sprang up, which helped to push our -little craft along at a good rate. To-night we shall have the midnight -sun for the first time, and it will be weeks, even months, before he -sets for us again. Everything on deck is dripping from the fog which has -gathered about us. - -Friday, June 26. In spite of the thick fog we have been making good -time, and expect to be in Disko, or more properly Godhavn, about noon -to-morrow. We saw our first eider-ducks to-day. Numerous bergs again -gleam up in the distance, probably the output of the Jakobshavn glacier. - -Tuesday, June 30. We have been in a constant state of excitement since -Saturday morning, when we first set foot on Greenland’s ice-bound -shores. The pilot, a half-breed Eskimo, came on board and took us into -the harbor of Godhavn shortly after nine o’clock. Mr. Peary, Captain -Pike, Professor Heilprin, and myself went ashore and paid our respects -to Inspector Anderssen and his family. They were very attentive to us, -and invited “Mr. and Mistress Peary” to stay with them during their stop -in Godhavn—a pleasure they were, however, compelled to forego. In the -afternoon a party of us from the “Kite” set out on our first Arctic -tramp, our objective point being the summit of the lofty basalt cliffs -that tower above the harbor. My outfit consisted of a red blanket -combination suit reaching to the knee, long knit stockings, a short -eider-down flannel skirt reaching to the ankles, and the “kamiks,” or -long-legged moccasins, which I had purchased in Sidney. The day was -exceptionally fine and sunny, and we started off in the best of spirits. -Never had I seen so many different wild flowers in bloom at once. I -could not put my foot down without crushing two or three different -varieties. Mr. Gibson, while chasing a butterfly, slipped and strained -the cords of his left foot so that he was obliged to return to the ship. -Never had I stepped on moss so soft and beautiful, all shades of green -and red, some beds of it covered so thickly with tiny pink flowers that -you could not put the head of a pin down between them. We gathered and -pressed as many flowers as we could conveniently carry—anemones, yellow -poppies, mountain pinks, various _Ericaceæ_, etc. Sometimes our path was -across snow-drifts, and sometimes we were ankle-deep in flowers and -moss. Mountain streams came tumbling down in every little gully, and -their water was so delicious that it seemed impossible to cross one of -these streams without stooping to drink. Our advance was very slow, as -we could not resist the temptation of constantly stopping to look back -and feast upon the beauties of the view. Disko Bay, blue as sapphire, -thickly studded with icebergs of all sizes and beautifully colored by -the sun’s rays, lay at our feet, with the little settlement of Godhavn -on one side and the brown cliffs towering over it. As far as the eye -could reach, the sea was dotted with icebergs, which looked like a fleet -of sail-boats. The scene was simply indescribable. We reached the -summit, at an elevation of 2400 feet, and built a cairn, in which we -placed a tin box containing a piece of paper with our names written upon -it, and some American coins. From the summit of these cliffs we stepped -upon the ice-cap, which seemed to roll right down to their tops. The -temperature was 91° F. in the sun, and 56° in the shade. As we descended -a blue mist seemed to hang over that part of the cliffs that lay in -shadow, and the contrast with the white bergs gleaming in the sapphire -waters below was very striking. We returned to the foot of the cliff -after eight o’clock. On Sunday we made another expedition, to the Blaese -Dael, or “windy valley,” where a beautiful double waterfall comes -tumbling through the hard rock, into which it has graven a deep channel. -We gathered more flowers, and collected some seaweed; the mosquitos, of -which we had had a foretaste the day before, were extremely troublesome, -and recalled to memory the shores of New Jersey. When we reached the -first Eskimo hut, a number of the piccaninnies[1] came to me and -presented me with bunches of wild flowers. We gave them some hardtack in -return, and they were happy. - -Footnote 1: - - The Eskimos frequently designate their children as piccaninnies, a - word doubtless introduced by the whalers. - -Mr. Peary, Professor Heilprin, myself, and two other members of our -party dined with the inspector in the evening, joining some members of -the Danish community, who had also been invited. The course consisted of -fresh codfish with caper-sauce, roast ptarmigan, potatoes boiled and -then browned; and for dessert, “Rudgrud,” a “dump,” almonds, and -raisins. There was, following European custom, a varied accompaniment of -wines. - -After dinner the gentlemen went up-stairs to examine the geological and -oölogical collections of the inspector, while the ladies preferred the -parlor with their coffee. Were it not for the outer surroundings, it -would have been difficult to realize that we were in the distant Arctic -realm, so truly homelike were the scenes of the little household, and so -cheerful the little that was necessary to make living here not only -comfortable, but pleasant. The entire community numbers barely 120 -souls, nine tenths of whom are Eskimos, mainly half-breeds; the -remainder are the Danish officials and their families, whose recreation -lies almost entirely within the little circle which they themselves -constitute. - -Toward nine o’clock we visited the storehouse, where a native ball was -in progress. Several of our boys went the rounds with the Eskimo -“belles,” but for me the odor of the interior was too strong to permit -me to say that looking on was an “unalloyed pleasure.” The steps were -made to the music of stringed instruments, over which the resident -half-breeds have acquired a fair mastery. The participants and onlookers -were all in a lively frame of mind, but not uproarious; and at the -appointed time of closing—ten o’clock—all traces of hilarity had -virtually been banished. - -[Illustration: - - The Most Northern Outpost of Civilization on the Globe—Upernavik. -] - -We had hoped to leave early on the following morning, but it was not -until near two o’clock that the fog began to lift, and that a departure -was made possible. Firing the official salute, and dipping our colors, -we gave three hearty cheers in honor of our first Greenland hosts, and -sailed out of the rock-bound harbor. It soon cleared up, and we were -able to make our normal seven knots an hour. This morning it was foggy -for a while, but it cleared up beautifully, and now we are just skimming -along, and expect to reach Upernavik, the most northern of the Danish -settlements in Greenland, about nine o’clock in the evening. - -Thursday, July 2. We did not reach Upernavik until 2.30 yesterday -morning, owing to a very strong current which was running against us all -the way from Godhavn. We remained up all night, and at 1.30 A. M. were -enjoying the dazzling brightness of the sunshine. Mr. Peary took a -number of photographs between midnight and morning. Upernavik is a very -different-looking place from Godhavn. There are four frame-houses and a -little church. The natives live in turf huts, very miserable-looking -habitations, built right down in the mud. As soon as our ship steamed -into the harbor, in which two Danish vessels were at anchor, the -governor, Herr Beyer, came on board with his lieutenant-governor, a -young fellow who had arrived only three days before. We returned the -visit at noon, and were pleasantly received by the governor and his -wife, a charming woman of about thirty years, who had been married but a -year, and whose fondness for home decoration had expressed itself in the -pictures, bric-à-brac, fancy embroideries, and flowering plants which -were everywhere scattered about, and helped to make up an extremely cozy -home. As in all other houses in the country, the guests were treated to -wine immediately on entering, and with a delicate politeness the -governor presented me with a corsage bouquet of the flowers of -Upernavik, neatly tied up with the colors of Denmark. Our visit was -fruitful in the receipt of presents, among which were Eskimo carvings, a -dozen bottles of native Greenland beer, and a box of “goodies,” -addressed to “Miss Peary,” and to be opened, as a reminder, on Christmas -eve. The hospitality shown to us could not have been more marked had our -friendship extended over many years. - -[Illustration: - - THE SUNSET GLOW—BERG OFF SVARTENHOEK. -] - -Our visit was a brief one, as we were to weigh anchor early in the -afternoon. We steamed away from Upernavik and headed north. The fog had -cleared away and disclosed a giant mountain towering above us in the -harbor. The sun shone brightly, and the sea was smooth as glass and blue -as turquoise. The night promised to be a beautiful one, but I resisted -the temptation to stay up, having been up the entire night before, and -the greater part of the one before that. At 4 A. M. Captain Pike knocked -at our door and informed us that in half an hour we would be at the Duck -Islands. Here we were to land and all hands shoot eider-ducks and gather -their eggs for our winter supply. We were soon on shore, and then began -a day’s sport such as I had often read about, but never expected to see. -The ducks flew in thick flocks all about us, and on every side were -nests as large as a large hen-nest, made of eider-down and containing -from three to six eggs. The nests were not hidden, but right out on the -rocks in full sight. Alas! we were too late; the ducks were breeding, -and out of 960 eggs we did not get over 150 good ones. As I had not -taken my gun, I spent the time in gathering down, and collected -forty-three pounds in five hours. After returning to the “Kite” for -breakfast, we visited a second island, and there I bagged a bird, much -to my satisfaction. Altogether ninety-six ducks were shot. - - - - - CHAPTER II - IN THE MELVILLE BAY PACK - - Melville Bay—On the Edge of the Dreaded Ice-pack—Fourth of - July—Butting the Ice—Accident to the Leader of the Expedition—Gloom - on the “Kite”—Blasting the “Kite” out of a Nip—A Real Bear and a - Bear Hunt—A Chase on the Ice—A Phantom Ship—Free of the Pack and in - the North Water at Last—The Greenland Shore to Barden Bay—First - Sight of the Arctic Highlanders. - - -Thursday, July 2. We are opposite the “Devil’s Thumb,” latitude 74° 20′, -and now, at 8 P. M., are slowly making our way through the ice which -marks the entrance into the Melville Bay “pack.” - -Friday, July 3. At midnight the engine was stopped, the ice being too -thick for the “Kite” to make any headway. At 6.30 A. M. we started -again, and rammed our way along for an hour, but were again forced to -stop. At eleven o’clock we tried it once more, but after a couple of -hours came to a standstill. We remained in this condition until after -five o’clock, when the engine was again started. For two hours we made -fairly good progress, and we thought that we should soon be in open -water, but a small neck of very heavy ice stopped us. While we were on -deck, the mate in the “crow’s-nest,” which was hoisted to-day, sang out, -“A bear! A bear!” Off in the distance we could see an object floating, -or rather swimming, in the water, and in a minute the boys were climbing -helter-skelter over the sides of the “Kite,” all with guns, although -some soon discovered that theirs were not loaded; but the bear turned -out to be a seal, and not one of about thirty shots hit him. It is now -nearly 11 P. M. The sun is shining beautifully, and it is perfectly -calm. I have worn only a gray spring jacket, which I have found -sufficient for the balmy temperature. At midnight the cannon was fired, -the flags were run up and dipped, and the boys fired their rifles and -gave three cheers for the Fourth of July. The thermometer marked 31°. - -[Illustration: - - “A Bear! A Bear!” -] - -Saturday, July 4. The ice remains stubborn, and we are fast bound. All -around the eye sees nothing but the immovable pack, here smooth as a -table, at other places tossed up into long hummock-ridges which define -the individual ice-cakes. Occasional lanes of water appear and -disappear, and their presence gives us the one hope of an early -disentanglement. The event of the day has been a dinner to Captain Pike, -in which most of the members of our party participated. After dinner -hunting-parties scoured the ice after seals, with the result of bringing -in two specimens, one weighing twenty-six pounds, and the other -thirty-three pounds. - -Sunday, July 5. All night we steamed along slowly, but at 8 A. M. we -were forced once more to stop. The day has been very disagreeable, -foggy, rainy, and even snowy. We have done nothing but eat and sleep. A -lazily hovering ivory-gull, which ventured within near gunshot, has been -added to our collections. - -Tuesday, July 7. The weather yesterday was dreary and disagreeable, but -to-day it seems warmer. The snow has ceased falling, although the sky is -still overcast, and the fog prevents us from seeing the horizon. At noon -the sun came through the clouds for a few moments, and the fog lifted -sufficiently for the captain to make an observation and find that our -position was latitude 74° 51′. During the afternoon the wind died down, -and an attempt was made to get through the ice; but after boring and -ramming the immovable pack for nearly an hour, and gaining only a ship’s -length, we concluded that we were burning coal for nothing. Mr. Peary, -with Gibson, Astrup, Cook, and Matt, has been busy all the afternoon -sawing, marking, and fitting the lumber for our Whale Sound cottage. The -curing of a large number of drake-skins, intended to be made up into -undershirts for winter wear, was a part of the day’s work. - -Thursday, July 9. Yesterday and to-day the fog lifted sufficiently at -times to permit us to see the land, about forty miles distant. A good -observation places us in latitude 74° 51′, and longitude about 60° W. -Mr. Peary fixed the points with his pocket sextant and the ship’s -compass, and then made a sketch of the headlands. The ice looks rotten, -but yet it holds together too firmly to permit us to force a passage. We -measured some of the floes, and found the thickest to be two and a half -feet. It has seemed very raw to-day, owing largely to a slight northwest -wind; and for the first time the average temperature has been below the -freezing-point, being 31½° F. - -[Illustration: - - Sailing Through the Pack. -] - -Friday, July 10. This morning the rigging was covered with hoar-frost, -making the “Kite” look like a “phantom ship.” The fog hung heavily about -us, shutting out the land completely. In the forenoon a sounding was -made, but no bottom was found at 343 fathoms. While we were at dinner, -without any warning the “Kite” began to move, steam was immediately -gotten up, and for an hour and a half we cut our way through the ice, -which had become very rotten, large floes splitting into several pieces -as soon as they were struck by the “Kite.” We made about three knots, -when we were again obliged to halt on account of a lowering fog. Our -little move was made just in time to keep up the courage of some of the -West Greenland party, who were beginning to believe that we should be -nipped and kept here for the winter. - -Although we realized that we were still ice-bound in the great and -much-dreaded Melville Bay pack, we could not but enjoy at times the -peculiar features of our forced imprisonment. Efforts to escape, with -full promise of success, followed by a condition of impotency and -absolute relaxation, would alternately elevate and depress our spirits -to the extent of casting joy and gloom into the little household. The -novelty of the situation, however, helped greatly to keep up a good -feeling, and all despondency was immediately dispelled by the sound of -the order to “fire up,” and the dull rumbling of the bell-metal -propeller. We never tired of watching our little craft cut her way -through the unbroken pans of ice. The great masses of ice were thrust -aside very readily; sometimes a piece was split from a large floe and -wedged under a still larger one, pushing this out of the way, the -commotion causing the ice in the immediate vicinity fairly to boil. Then -we would run against an unusually hard, solid floe that would not move -when the “Kite” struck it, but let her ride right up on it and then -allow her gradually to slide off and along the edge until she struck a -weak place, when the floe would be shivered just as a sheet of glass is -shivered when struck a sharp, hard blow. The pieces were hurled against -and on top of other pieces, crashing and splashing about until it seemed -as though the ice must be as thick again as it was before the break-up; -but the good old “Kite” pushed them aside, leaving them in the distance -groaning and creaking at having been disturbed. The day has been -pleasant, in spite of an average temperature of 27½°. - -Tuesday, July 14. How different everything looks to us since I last -wrote in this journal! Saturday the weather was, as usual, cold and -foggy; and when, at 5.30 P. M., we found ourselves suddenly moving, -every one was elated, hoping we would be able to get into the clear -water ahead, which the mate said could be seen from the crow’s-nest. Mr. -Peary was particularly pleased, as he said we should then reach Whale -Sound by July 15, the limit he had set for getting there. After supper -he and I bundled up and went on deck, and watched the “Kite” cut through -the rotten ice like butter. We had been on the bridge for some time, -when Mr. Peary left me to warm his feet in the cabin. Coming on deck -again, he stepped for a moment behind the wheel-house, and immediately -after, I saw the wheel torn from the grasp of the two helmsmen, whirling -around so rapidly that the spokes could not be seen. One of the men was -thrown completely over it, but on recovering himself he stepped quickly -behind the house, and I instantly realized that something must have -happened to my husband. How I got to him I do not know, but I reached -him before any one else, and found him standing on one foot looking pale -as death. “Don’t be frightened, dearest; I have hurt my leg,” was all he -said. Mr. Gibson and Dr. Sharp helped, or rather carried, him down into -the cabin and laid him on the table. He was ice-cold, and while I -covered him with blankets, our physicians gave him whisky, cut off his -boot, and cut open his trousers. They found that both bones of the right -leg had been fractured between the knee and the ankle. The leg was put -into a box and padded with cotton. The fracture being what the doctors -pronounced a “good one,” it was not necessary to have the bones pulled -into place. Poor Bert suffered agonies in spite of the fact that the -doctors handled him as tenderly as they could. We found it impossible to -get him into our state-room, so a bed was improvised across the upper -end of the cabin, and there my poor sufferer lies. He is as good and -patient as it is possible to be under the circumstances. The accident -happened in this way. The “Kite” had been for some time pounding, or, as -the whalers say, “butting,” a passage through the ice, slowly but -steadily forging a way through the spongy sheets which had already for -upward of a week imprisoned her. To gain strength for every assault it -was necessary constantly to reverse, and it was during one of these -evolutions, when going astern, that a detached cake of ice struck the -rudder, crowding the iron tiller against the wheel-house where Mr. Peary -was standing, and against his leg, which it held pinned long enough for -him to hear it snap. - -Wednesday, July 15. Mr. Peary passed a fairly comfortable night, and had -a good sleep without morphine to-day, consequently he feels better. As -for myself, I could not keep up any longer, and at 11 A. M., after Dr. -Cook had dressed the leg and made an additional splint, I lay down, and -neither moved nor heard a sound until after five o’clock. This was the -first sleep I have had since Friday night. Dr. Cook, who has been more -than attentive, has made a pair of crutches for the poor sufferer, but -he will not be able to use them for a month. - -We find to-day that our latitude is 75° 1′, and our longitude 60° 9′; -consequently our headway has been very slow. It seems as if when the ice -is loose the fog is too thick for us to travel in safety, and when the -fog lifts the ice closes in around us. Once to-day the ice suddenly -opened and a crack which visibly widened allowed us to make nearly four -miles in one stretch. Throughout much of the night and day we steamed -back and forth and hither and thither, trying to get through or around -the ice, and to prevent the “Kite” from getting nipped between two -floes. A little after supper the fog suddenly closed in upon us, and -before we could complete the passage of a narrow and tortuous lead, -through which we were seeking escape from the advancing floes in our -rear, we were caught fast between two large pans. The ice was only about -fourteen inches thick, and there was but little danger of the “Kite” -being crushed; still, Captain Pike, with the memories of former -disasters fresh in his mind, did not relish the situation, and blasted -our way out with gunpowder at 8.15 P. M. This is our first “nip.” - -[Illustration: - - Bruin at Rest. -] - -An hour later the captain called down to me to come up at once, as a -bear was advancing toward the ship. The boys had been watching and -longing for a bear ever since we left New-York, and many false alarms -had been given; but here was a real live polar coming straight for the -“Kite.” A very, very pretty sight he was, with black snout, black eyes, -and black toes. Against the white snow and ice, he seemed to be of a -cream color. His head was thrown up as he loped along toward us, and -when, within a short distance of the “Kite,” a gull flew over his head, -he made a playful jump at it, all unconscious of the doom which awaited -him. Eleven men with guns were stooping down on the quarter-deck waiting -for the captain to give the word to fire. A bullet disabled one of the -fore legs, while another struck the animal in the head, instantly dyeing -it crimson; the bear stopped short, wheeled round, fell over on his -head, and then got up. By this time it was simply raining bullets about -the poor beast; still he staggered on toward the water. Gibson, who had -jumped on the ice as soon as he fired, was now close to him, and, just -as he started to swim away, put a ball in his neck, which stopped him -short. A boat was lowered, and he was brought alongside the “Kite.” He -measured seven feet one inch in length, and we estimated his weight at -from eight to ten hundred pounds. - -Friday, July 17. Last night was the worst night my poor husband has had. -His leg pained him more than it had done so far, and he begged me to -give him a sedative, which, with the doctor’s consent, I did; but even -then his sleep was disturbed to such an extent that it amounted to -delirium. He would plead with me to do something for his leg. After -doing everything I could think of, I said, “Can’t you tell me where it -hurts you most, and what you think might help you?” His answer was, “Oh, -my dear, pack it in ice until some one can shoot it!” In this way he -spent the night, and this morning he was thoroughly exhausted. Dr. Cook -has succeeded in making his leg more comfortable, and now he sleeps. It -seems very hard that I cannot take him away to some place where he can -rest in peace. - -Tuesday, July 21. Since last writing in my journal, four days ago, we -have been steadily nearing Cape York, and we hope soon to clear the ice -of Melville Bay, and pass into the open North Water beyond. Our hopes -have, however, so often been disappointed that day by day, even when in -full view of the land, we become less and less confident of ever being -able to disengage ourselves from our confinement. Huge grounded bergs -still hold the ice together, and until they show signs of moving there -is little prospect of a general break-up. - -On Saturday a bear with two cubs was seen on the ice ahead of us, and -immediately every man was over the side of the vessel making for the -animals. The mother, with a tender affection for her young, guided an -immediate retreat, herself taking the rear, and alternately inciting the -one cub and then the other to more rapid movement. Our boys were wholly -unacquainted with the art of rapid traveling on the rough and hummocky -ice, and before long the race was admitted to be a very unequal one; -they were all quickly distanced. One of the men, in the excitement of -the moment, joined in the chase without his gun, and, even without this -implement, when he returned to the “Kite” he was so out of breath that -he had to be hauled up the sides of the vessel like a dead seal. He lay -sprawling and breathless on the deck for at least five minutes, much to -the merriment of the crew and the more fortunate members of the party. A -round weight of over two hundred pounds was responsible for his -discomfiture. Monday morning about two o’clock the fog suddenly lifted, -and we found ourselves almost upon the land. The visible shore extended -from Cape York to Wolstenholme Island, and we could clearly distinguish -Capes Dudley Diggs and Atholl. I held a looking-glass over the open -skylight in such a way that Mr. Peary could see something of the outline -of the coast. Poor fellow! he wanted to go on deck so badly, thinking -that if he were strapped to a board he could be moved in safety, but the -doctor persuaded him to give up the thought. As the doctors have all -agreed that in six months his leg will be as good as it ever was, he -refuses to consider the idea of returning on the “Kite”; as for myself, -now that we have started, I want to keep on too. The air is almost black -with flocks of the little auk, and a party on the ice to-day brought in -sixteen birds in a very short time. - -Wednesday, July 22. Drs. Hughes and Sharp brought in sixty-four birds as -the result of an all-night catch. We are still in the ice, with no signs -of our getting out, although the captain says we have drifted twenty -miles to the northward since Monday morning. We are now abreast of -Conical Rock. Second Mate Dunphy has just reported seeing from the -crow’s-nest a steamer off Cape York, but it is not visible to the naked -eye, and we are in doubt as to what it is. - -Friday, July 24. The steamer did not materialize; either the mate was -mistaken or the vessel drifted away from us. The ice parted early -yesterday morning, much to everybody’s relief, and we have since been -pushing steadily on our course. The long line of table-topped bergs off -Cape York, some of which measured not less than two hundred to three -hundred feet in height, and perhaps considerably over a mile in length, -is visibly moving over to the American waters, and to this disrupting -force we are doubtless largely indebted for our liberation. The scenery -of this portion of the Greenland coast is surpassingly fine. The steep -red-brown cliffs are frequently interrupted by small glaciers reaching -down to the water’s edge. The entrance to Wolstenholme Sound, guarded as -it was by huge bergs, was particularly beautiful. Saunders Island in the -distance, and Dalrymple Rock immediately in the foreground, stood up -like great black giants, contrasting with the snow-white bergs -surrounding them and the red cliffs of the mainland on either side. -Whenever anything particularly striking or beautiful appears, I am -called on deck, and with my hand-glass placed at the open transom over -Mr. Peary’s head, manage to give him a faint glimpse of our -surroundings. At nine o’clock this evening we rounded Cape Parry, and -about ten o’clock stopped at the little Eskimo village of Netchiolumy in -Barden Bay, where we hoped to obtain a native house, sledge, kayak, and -various native utensils and implements for the World’s Columbian -Exposition. Our search-party found only three houses in the settlement, -and the lonely inhabitants numbered six adults and five children; five -dogs added life to the solitude. These people had quantities of -sealskins and narwhal tusks, many of which were obtained in exchange for -knives, saws, files, and tools in general. Wood of any kind, to be used -in the construction of sledges, kayak frames, and spear- and -harpoon-shafts, was especially in demand; they cared nothing for our -woven clothing, nor for articles of simple show and finery. We stopped -this morning at Herbert Island, where we had hoped to visit a native -graveyard, but no graves were found. - - - - - CHAPTER III - ESTABLISHING OURSELVES - - Arrival at McCormick Bay—Selecting the Site for the House—Temporary - Quarters—Hurrying the Erection of the House—White Whales—Departure - of the “Kite”—Alone on the Arctic Shore—A Summer Storm—Arctic - Picnicking—The First Birthday and the First Deer—Birthday-dinner - Menu—Departure of the Boat Party for Hakluyt and Northumberland - Islands after Birds and Eskimos—Occupations during their - Absence—Return of the Party with an Eskimo Family. - - -Sunday, July 26. Mr. Peary is getting along nicely. His nights are -fairly comfortable, and consequently he feels much better by day; his -back now troubles him more than his leg. Yesterday morning at three -o’clock he was awakened and told that the ice prevented our getting to -Cape Acland, and that we were just abreast of McCormick Bay, and could -not proceed further into the sound. He accordingly decided to put up our -quarters on the shores of this bay. It was now a question as to which -side of the bay would be most favorable for a home. At 9 A. M., together -with several members of our party, I rowed over to the southeast shore, -and walked along the coast for about three miles, prospecting for a -site, and made a provisional choice of what seemed a desirable knoll. We -returned to the “Kite” about noon. After dinner Professor Heilprin, Dr. -Cook, Astrup, and three others went over to the other shore, and toward -evening they returned with the report that the place was perfectly -desolate and not at all suitable for a camp. After supper we returned to -the southeast shore to see if we could improve on the location selected -in the morning, but after tramping for miles came back to the old site. -While it cannot in truth be said that the spot is a specially attractive -one, it would be equally untrue to describe it as being entirely devoid -of charm or attraction. Flowers bloom in abundance on all sides, and -their varied colors,—white, pink, and yellow,—scattered through a -somewhat somber base of green, picture a carpet of almost surpassing -beauty. Rugged cliffs of sandstone, some sixteen hundred to eighteen -hundred feet high, in which the volcanic forces have built up long black -walls of basalt, rise steeply behind us, and over their tops the eternal -ice-cap is plainly visible. Only a few paces from the base of the knoll -are the silent and still partially ice-covered waters of the bay, which -extends five miles or more over to the opposite shore, and perhaps three -times that distance eastward to its termination. A number of lazy -icebergs still stand guard between us and the open waters of the western -horizon, where the gray and ice-flecked bluffs of Northumberland and -Hakluyt Islands disappear from sight. - -[Illustration: - - ON THE BEACH OF McCORMICK BAY. -] - -This morning the members of our party went ashore with pickaxes and -shovels, and they are now digging the foundations of our “cottage by the -sea.” They are also putting up a tent for our disabled commander, whence -he can superintend the erection of the structure. The men are working in -their undershirts and trousers, and it is quite warm enough for me to -stay on deck without a wrap, even when I am not exercising; yet, if we -had this temperature at home, we should consider it decidedly cool. I -have had oil-stoves taken ashore for the purpose of heating the tent in -case it becomes necessary. - -[Illustration: - - Our “Cottage by the Sea.” -] - -Wednesday, July 29. The last three days have been busy ones for me, -being obliged to attend to all the packing and unpacking myself, besides -waiting on Mr. Peary. Monday, after dinner, the boys finished digging -the foundations. Mr. Peary was then strapped to a board, and four men -carried him from the “Kite” into a boat. After crossing the bay he was -carried up to the tent just back of where the house is being erected, -and placed on a rough couch. He is near enough to superintend the work, -and everything is progressing favorably. - -Last night was a queer one for me. All the boys slept on board the -“Kite,” leaving me entirely alone with my crippled husband in the little -shelter-tent on the south shore of McCormick Bay. I had forgotten to -have my rifle brought ashore, and I could not help thinking what would -be the best thing for me to do in case an unwelcome visitor in the shape -of a bear should take it into his head to poke his nose into the tent. -While I was lying awake, imagining all sorts of things, I heard most -peculiar grunts and snorts coming from the direction of the beach, and -on looking out saw a school of white whale playing in the water just in -front of our tent. They seemed to be playing tag, chasing each other and -diving and splashing just like children in the water. I was surprised at -their graceful movements as they glided along, almost coming up on the -beach at times. The night passed uneventfully, but I decided to have -Matt sleep on shore to-night, should the others go on board the “Kite” -again. In case of a sudden wind-storm I could not steady the tent alone, -and some one ought to be within calling distance. - -As the members of the returning party come to bid us good-by it makes me -feel very, very homesick; but a year will soon pass, and then we too -shall return home. The professor has kindly offered to see mama, and do -for her what he can in the way of keeping her posted. - - -Early Thursday morning, July 30, those of our party who had slept aboard -ship—that is, all except Mr. Peary, Matt, and myself—were aroused and -told they must “pull for the shore,” as the “Kite” was going to turn her -nose toward home. Not being accustomed to the duties of housekeeper and -nurse, I was so completely tired out that I slept soundly and knew -nothing of the cheers and farewell salutes which passed between the -little party who were to remain in the far North, and those on board the -“Kite,” who would bring our friends the only tidings of us until our -return in ’92. Mr. Peary remarked on the cheerfulness of our men. Less -than five minutes after the boat grated on the beach he heard the sound -of the hammer and the whistling of the boys. - -Three or four hours after the “Kite” left McCormick Bay a furious wind -and rain storm swept down upon us from the cliffs back of our house. The -boys continued the work on the roof as long as possible, hoping to be -able to get the whole house under cover, but the fury of the storm was -such as to make it impossible for them to keep their foothold on the -rafters, and they were obliged to seek shelter under what there was of -the roof. At meal-time they all crowded in our little 7 × 10 canvas -tent, sitting on boxes and buckets, and holding their mess-pans in their -laps. These I supplied with baked beans, stewed corn, stewed tomatoes, -and corned beef, from the respective pots in which they had been -prepared. The rain dashed against the tent, and the wind rocked it to -and fro. Every little while one of the guy-ropes would snap with a sound -like the report of a pistol, and one of the boys would have to put his -dinner on the ground and go out into the storm and refasten it, for -these ropes were all that kept our little tent from collapsing. The meal -completed, the boys returned to the house, where they had more room, -even if they were not more comfortable. - -I never shall forget this wretched night following the departure of the -“Kite.” The stream which rushed down the sides of the cliffs divided -just back of the tent, and one arm of it went round while the other came -through our little shelter. The water came with such force that in a few -moments it had made a furrow down the middle of the tent floor several -inches deep and nearly the entire width of the floor space, through -which it rushed and roared. All night long I was perched tailor-fashion -on some boxes, expecting every moment to see the tent torn from its -fastenings and the disabled man lying by my side exposed to the fury of -the storm. Our only comfort, and one for which we were duly thankful, -was that during this “night” of storm we had constant daylight; in other -words, it was just as light at two o’clock in the morning as it was at -two o’clock in the afternoon. When it was time for breakfast, I lighted -the oil-stove, which I had fished out of the water just as it was about -to float away, and made some coffee, and we breakfasted on coffee, -biscuit, and corned beef. - -This state of affairs continued until the afternoon, when the storm -finally abated and the boys began work again on the roof. The water in -the tent subsided, and by putting pieces of plank down I could again -move about without sinking into the mud, and I at once set to work to -get the boys a square meal. - -By Saturday morning our habitation was under cover, the stove put up -temporarily, with the stovepipe through one of the spaces left for a -window, and a fire made from the blocks and shavings that had escaped -the flood. The house was soon comparatively dry,—at least it did not -seem damp when compared with the interior of the tent,—and Mr. Peary was -carried in and placed on a bed composed of boxes of provisions covered -with blankets. Although we had no doors or windows in place, we felt -that it might rain and storm as much as it pleased, and it would not -interfere with finishing up the house and getting the meals, two very -important items for us just then. - -Gradually our home began to have a finished appearance: the inside -sheathing was put on, and the doors and windows put in place. We had no -more violent wind-storms, but it rained every day for over a week. At -last, on August 8, there was no rain; and, as it was Matt’s birthday, -Mr. Peary told the boys after lunch to take their rifles and bring in a -deer. One of the rules of our Arctic home was that each member’s -birthday should be celebrated by such a dinner as he might choose from -our stock of provisions. Before going out Matt chose his menu, which I -was to prepare while the hunters were gone. The plum-duff, however, he -mixed himself, as he had taken lessons from the cook on board the -“Kite.” After every one had gone, Mr. Peary surprised me by saying he -intended to get up and come into the room where I was preparing the -dinner. Only the day before the doctor had taken his leg out of the box -and put it in splints, and he had been able for the first time since -July 11 to turn on his side. I tried to persuade him to lie still for -another day, but when I saw that he had set his heart on making the -effort, I bandaged up the limb and helped him to dress. Then I brought -him the crutches which Dr. Cook had made while we were still on board -the ship, and with their aid he came slowly into the other room. Here, -through the open door, he could watch the waves as they rose and fell on -the beach about one hundred yards distant, while I prepared the “feast.” -The bill of fare that Matt selected was as follows: - - Mock-turtle soup. - Stew of little auk with green peas. - Broiled breasts of eider-duck. - Boston baked beans, corn, tomatoes. - Apricot pie, plum-duff with brandy sauce. - Sliced peaches. - Coffee. - -With the soup I served a cocktail made by Mr. Peary after a recipe of -his own, and henceforth known by our little party as “Redcliffe House -cocktail”; with the stew, two bottles of “Liebfrauenmilch”; and with the -rest of the dinner, “Sauterne.” About five o’clock we heard the shouts -of the boys, and on going out I saw them coming down the cliffs heavily -laden with some bulky objects. I rushed in and reported the facts in the -case to Mr. Peary, who immediately said, “They are bringing in a deer. -Oh, I must get out!” So out he hobbled, and to the corner of the house, -where he had a good view of the returning hunters. As soon as he saw -them he said, “Get me my kodak. Quick!” and before the boys had -recovered from their surprise at seeing Mr. Peary, whom they had left -confined to his bed, standing on three legs at the corner of the house, -the first hunting-party sent out from Redcliffe had been immortalized by -the ever-present camera. The boys were jubilant over their success, and -brought back appetites that did justice to the dinner which was now -nearly ready. At six o’clock we all sat down at the rude table, -constructed by the boys out of the rough boards left from the house, and -just large enough to accommodate our party of seven. We had not yet had -time to make chairs, so boxes were substituted, and we managed very -nicely. We had no table-cloth, and all our dishes were of tin, yet a -merrier party never sat down to a table anywhere. Three days afterward -we repeated the feasting part of the day, with a variation in the bill -of fare, in honor of the third anniversary of our marriage, and this -time we sampled the venison, which we found so delicious that the boys -were more eager than ever to lay in a stock for the winter. - -The next day, August 12, Mr. Peary sent all the boys, except Matt, in -one of our whale-boats, the “Faith,” to search Herbert and -Northumberland Islands for an Eskimo settlement, and if possible to -induce a family to move over and settle down near Redcliffe House. The -man could show us the best hunting-grounds, and assist in bagging all -kinds of game, while the woman could attend to making our skin boots, or -kamiks, and keeping them in order. They were also instructed to visit -the loomeries, as the breeding places of the birds are called, and bring -back as many birds as possible. - -During their absence Matt was at work on our protection wall of stone -and turf around Redcliffe, and Mr. Peary busied himself as best he could -in making observations for time, taking photographs, and pressing -flowers and other botanical specimens which I gathered for him. He even -ventured part of the way up the cliffs at the back of the house, but -this was slow and laborious work. The ground was so soft that his -crutches would sink into it sometimes as much as two feet. The weather -continued bright and balmy, and I did not feel the necessity of even a -light wrap while rambling over the hills. What I did long for was an -old-fashioned sunbonnet made of some bright-colored calico, and -stiffened with strips of pasteboard, for the sun was burning my face and -neck very badly. The boys returned at the end of a week, bringing with -them a native man named Ikwa; his wife, Mané; and two children, both -little girls—Anadore, aged two years and six months, and a baby of six -months, whom we called Noyah (short for Nowyahrtlik). - - - - - CHAPTER IV - HUNTS AND EXPLORATIONS - - Ikwa and his Family—Present of a Mirror—August Walrus - Hunt—Preparations for Sending out the Depot Party—Departure for Head - of McCormick Bay—First Herd of Reindeer—Exciting Experiences in - Tooktoo Valley—Packing the Things up the Bluffs—The Inland Ice Party - Off—Return to Redcliffe—A Foretaste of Winter. - - -These Eskimos were the queerest, dirtiest-looking individuals I had ever -seen. Clad entirely in furs, they reminded me more of monkeys than of -human beings. Ikwa, the man, was about five feet two or three inches in -height, round as a dumpling, with a large, smooth, fat face, in which -two little black eyes, a flat nose, and a large expansive mouth were -almost lost. His coarse black hair was allowed to straggle in tangles -over his face, ears, and neck, to his shoulders, without any attempt at -arrangement or order. His body was covered with a garment made of -birdskins, called by the natives “ahtee,” the feathers worn next the -body, and outside of this a garment made of sealskin with the fur on the -outside, called “netcheh.” These garments, patterned exactly alike, were -made to fit to the figure, cut short at the hips, and coming to a point -back and front; a close-fitting hood was sewed to the neck of each -garment, and invariably pulled over his head when he was out of doors. -His legs were covered with sealskin trousers, or “nanookies,” reaching -just below the knee, where they were met by the tanned sealskin boots, -called by the natives “kamiks.” We learned later that sealskin trousers -were worn only by those men who were not fortunate enough or able to -kill a bear. In winter these men wear dogskin trousers, which are as -warm as those made of bearskin, but not nearly so stylish. Winter and -summer the men wear stockings reaching to the knee, made of the fur of -the Arctic hare. - -[Illustration: - - Mané and Anadore -] - -At first I thought the woman’s dress was identical with that of the man, -and it puzzled me to tell one from the other; but in a day or two I had -made out the many little differences in the costumes. The woman, like -the man, wore the ahtee and netcheh made respectively of the birdskins -and sealskin. They differed in pattern from those of the man only in the -back, where an extra width is sewed in, which forms a pouch extending -the entire length of the back of the wearer, and fitting tight around -the hips. In this pouch or hood the baby is carried: its little body, -covered only by a shirt reaching to the waist, made of the skin of a -young blue fox, is placed against the bare back of the mother; and the -head, covered by a tight-fitting skull-cap made of sealskin, is allowed -to rest against the mother’s shoulder. In this way the Eskimo child is -carried constantly, whether awake or asleep, and without clothing except -the shirt and cap, until it can walk, which is usually at the age of two -years; then it is clothed in skins, exactly as the father if it is a -boy, or like the mother if a girl, and allowed to toddle about. If it is -the youngest member of the family, after it has learned to walk it still -takes its place in the mother’s hood whenever it is sleepy or tired, -just as American mothers pick up their little toddlers and rock them. - -The woman’s trousers, or nanookies, are made of foxskin, and are hardly -anything more than “trunks”; these are met by the long-legged boots, or -kamiks, made of tanned sealskin, and the long stockings, or “allahsy,” -of reindeer fur. Altogether this family appeared fully as strange to us -as we did to them. They had never before seen woven material, and could -not seem to understand the texture, insisting that it was the skin of -some animal in America. - -They brought their dog, a sledge, a tent, a kayak (or canoe), and all -their housekeeping utensils and articles of furniture, which consisted -of two or three deerskins, on which the family slept; a stove made of -soapstone and shaped like our dust-pans, in which they burned seal fat, -using dried moss as a wick; and a dish or pot made of the same material, -which they hung over their stove, and in which they melted the ice for -drinking purposes and also heated their seal and walrus meat (I say -heated, for we would hardly call it cooked when they take it out of the -water). The skin tent put up, and these articles put in place, the house -was considered furnished and ready for occupancy. Wood being almost -impossible to procure, the tent was put up with narwhal tusks, which are -more plentiful and answer the purpose. The tent itself is made of -sealskin tanned and sewed together with narwhal sinews. These people -were very curious to see the white woman, who, they were given to -understand, was in the American “igloo” (house); and when Mr. Peary and -I came out, they looked at both of us, and then Ikwa asked, “Soonah -koonah?” Of course we did not know then what he wanted, but he soon made -us understand that he wished to know which one of the two was the woman. -I delighted him, and won his lasting favor, by making him a present of a -knife. His wife, Mané, was almost overwhelmed by a gift of some needles; -while Anadore, the elder of the two children, amused herself by making -faces at her image in a small mirror that I had presented to her. It was -the first time these people had seen themselves, and the parents were as -much amused as the children. They asked many questions, but as we could -not understand them any more than they knew what we were talking about, -the whole conversation was decidedly more amusing than instructive. - -[Illustration: - - A SUMMER DAY.—IKWA AND FAMILY. -] - -[Illustration: - - Ikwa and his Quarry. -] - -Later in the day the boys launched the whale-boat, and Mr. Peary, -Gibson, Verhoeff, Matt, and myself, with our new man Ikwa, went down to -Cape Cleveland, two and a half miles from Redcliffe, where the boys had -beached a walrus killed by them while crossing Murchison Sound. It was -very interesting to watch Ikwa cut up this enormous animal, weighing -more than 1500 pounds, with an ordinary six-inch pocket-knife. So -precisely did he know just where every joint was, that not once did he -strike a bone, but cut the entire animal up into pieces which could be -easily handled by one man, as though it had been boneless. This done, -the pieces were packed in the boat, preparatory to taking them to -Redcliffe. Here at Cape Cleveland we found the grass very green, and in -places over two feet high. This unusual growth is explained by the -presence of blubber caches, seal caches, and the ruins of an Eskimo -village. We gathered many flowers, among which the yellow Arctic poppy -was the most prominent, and also shot a number of little auk and a few -gulls and eider-ducks. Mr. Peary hobbled along the beach on his -crutches, around the cape, and had his first view up Whale Sound and -Inglefield Gulf. On our return to Redcliffe, all the meat was hung up -back of the house to be used in the winter for dog-food and as an -occasional treat for our Eskimo family. It was a little too strong for -our taste, and we decided we would resort to it only in case we were -unsuccessful in getting deer. - -A few days after this, early in the morning, Ikwa came running into our -house, apparently much excited, crying, “Awick! Awick!” This we had -learned was walrus. The boys tumbled out of their beds, and in a very -few moments were in the boat with Ikwa, pulling in the direction of a -spouting walrus out in McCormick Bay. In a short time they returned with -a large mother walrus and her baby in tow. The mother had been killed, -but the baby—a round bundle of fat about four feet long—was alive, and -very much so, as we found out a little later. Mr. Peary wanted to get -photographs of the little thing before it was shot, and while he was -dressing, a task which was of necessity slow, the boys came into the -house, leaving the baby walrus about a hundred yards up on the beach. -Suddenly we heard cries for help coming from the shore. On stepping to -the window, I saw one of the most comical sights I had ever seen. The -little walrus was slowly but surely making his way to the waters of the -bay. Mané with her baby on her back was sitting in the sand, her heels -dug into it as far as she could get them, holding on to the line -attached to the walrus, without apparently arresting its progress in the -least, for she was being dragged through the gravel and sand quite -rapidly. While I looked, Matt came rushing to her assistance, and taking -hold of the line just ahead of where Mané held it, he gave it one or two -turns about his wrists, and evidently thought all he had to do would be -to dig his heels into the sand and hold back; but in an instant he was -down in the sand too, and both he and Mané were plowing along, the sand -flying, and both shouting lustily for help. So strong was this little -creature that had not the other boys rushed out and secured him, he -would easily have pulled Matt and Mané to the water’s edge, where, of -course, they would have let him go, and he would have been a free walrus -once more. I have always regretted that I did not get a “kodak” of the -scene. - -It was now the end of August, and active preparations were in progress -for sending a party with provisions to establish an advance depot on the -inland ice for the spring sledge journey across the great ice desert to -the northern terminus of Greenland. It was decided that Astrup, Gibson, -and Verhoeff should go on this trip, while Dr. Cook and Matt remained -with Mr. Peary and myself at Redcliffe. - -On September 3, all arrangements having been perfected for the inland -ice-party, every one in the settlement, except Matt and Mané with her -children, sailed for the head of McCormick Bay, where it had been -decided that the boys should ascend the cliffs and attack the ice. -Redcliffe House is about fifteen miles from the head of the bay, and -this distance had to be rowed, for we got no favoring breeze. It was -late in the evening when we rounded a point of land whence we could see -the green valley stretching from the water’s edge back to the giant -black cliffs, which here form the boundaries of the inland ice. The -landscape was a beautiful one. As I looked I beheld moving objects on -one of the hillsides, which, seen through the glass, seemed to me to be -the size of a cow. We at once knew they were reindeer, and their -apparent size was due to mirage. Astrup was landed with a Winchester at -a point where he could go round and come upon the grazing herd from -behind the hill; it was hoped they would not see him, and that he would -bag quite a number. After landing Astrup we kept on until we were -opposite the center of the valley; here our boat was run ashore, and we -decided to camp. - -Mr. Peary told me to take a run over the rocks and down the valley in -order to get warm, as I had become chilled from sitting in the boat and -not exercising for several hours; so after seeing him safely on the -little knoll about twenty feet above the shore-line, where we intended -to make camp, I strolled away. Upon climbing the hill, just back of the -camping-ground, I came in sight of the herd of deer which we had seen -from the boat, and as I watched them I saw the smoke and heard the -report of Astrup’s rifle. In an instant they were scampering off in -every direction, and although Astrup fired shot upon shot not one -dropped. One of the animals, however, after running some distance, -stumbled and fell, lay still for an instant, then got up, ran on a few -yards, and fell again. As it did not rise I judged it had received one -of Astrup’s bullets, and forgetting how deceptive distances are in the -pure, clear air, I started on the run toward the prostrate creature, -apparently not more than a mile distant. Happening to look back, I saw -Dr. Cook and Ikwa coming in my direction, and waited for them. On -reaching me the doctor said they were on their way to help Astrup bring -in his game. I called his attention to the little white spot on the -green grass, and told him it was a deer, and that I had seen it drop. As -we could see nothing of Astrup, we decided to take care of the animal. -Dr. Cook had his rifle loaded with twelve cartridges, Ikwa had a -muzzle-loader charged, and an extra load for it besides, and I had on my -cartridge-belt and revolver (a 38–caliber Colt). After walking—or -trotting would perhaps express it better—for some distance, we came to a -stream that flowed down the center of the valley throughout its length, -which we had to cross in order to reach our destination. Fortunately the -doctor had on his long-legged rubber boots, for we soon saw that the -only way to get on the other side was to wade the stream. We tried it at -different places, and finally the doctor found a place where he could -cross. First taking his rifle and my revolver and belt of cartridges -over, he returned for me and carried me across; then we continued in the -direction of the white spot, which all this time had not moved. After -traveling for nearly an hour we were near enough to see that beside the -prostrate deer stood a tiny black-and-white creature, a fawn. Whether it -saw us and whispered to its mother, I do not know; but immediately after -we had made out the little one, the mother deer raised her head, looked -at us, then rising slowly, started off at a moderate walk. We quickened -our steps, and so did she. When within three hundred yards, Dr. Cook -discharged his rifle several times, but only succeeded in wounding her -in the fore leg, which did not seem to retard her progress in the least. -Several times we were near enough to have shot her without any trouble, -but we were so excited—a case of buck-fever, I believe the hunters call -it—that she escaped every shot. To add to our difficulties the deer made -for a neighboring lake, and in the effort to stop her before she reached -it, we fired shot after shot until the doctor’s rifle was empty. There -was now nothing for us to do but stand around and crouch behind the -boulders in the hope that the poor wounded animal would come ashore -within pistol-shot range. It was evident that she was too weak to swim -across, and it was very touching to see how the little fawn would -support its mother in the water. Once or twice she tried to climb out on -the ice-foot, but the ice was not strong enough, and broke beneath her -weight. We were thoroughly chilled and hungry by this time, but disliked -the idea of returning empty-handed to camp after such a long absence. At -last, just as we were talking of returning, we saw Astrup in the -distance, and called to him to join us. When he came up to us he said he -had had no luck. He had a few cartridges left in his rifle, which he -expended on our victim without, however, harming her in the least. -Astrup then urged us to return, as he, too, was tired out; but we were -loath to leave our wounded deer, especially as we now knew it was only a -matter of time when we should get her, for she could not hold out much -longer. Nearer and nearer she came to the ice, finally leaning against -the edge as if to gather strength, when suddenly the doctor darted over -the ice-foot into the icy water, and before the startled animal realized -his intention, he had her by her short horns, which were still in the -velvet, and was pulling her slowly ashore. The little one then left its -mother for the first time, ran as fast as it could over the rocks, and -disappeared behind the cliffs. - -The doctor had some trouble in pulling the wounded animal out on the -ice, which kept constantly breaking. All this time he was standing -knee-deep in the ice-cold water, and before long he had to call to us to -relieve him, his feet and legs being so numb that he could stand it no -longer. As Astrup had on low shoes, he did not feel like wading out to -the doctor, who was rubbing and pounding his feet, so I went to his -relief. My oil-tan boots kept the water out for some time. Although I -could not drag the poor creature out on the ice, still I had no -difficulty in holding her, as she made no resistance whatever. After the -doctor had somewhat restored his circulation, he came to me, and -together we pulled the wounded animal out. Then I was asked to kill her -with my revolver, but I could not force myself to do it, and Astrup took -the weapon and put her out of her misery. We placed the body on a large -flat rock, piled boulders on it, and left it. Both Dr. Cook and I were -thoroughly cold by this time, and we all hurried toward camp. It was now -nearing midnight, and I had been away from camp since six o’clock. It -was hard to realize the time of day, as the sun was shining just as -brightly as in the early afternoon. We soon reached the river, and -across it the poor doctor had to make three trips: first to carry the -rifles over, then to come back for me, and then to go after Astrup. As -this last load weighed 183 pounds, and the current was very swift, -progress was of necessity slow. The doctor had to feel his way, and did -not dare to lift his feet from the bottom. At last we were all safely -over. Ikwa, who had taken off his kamiks and stockings and waded the -stream, was lying flat on his back on a mossy bank nearly convulsed with -laughter at the sight of the doctor carrying Astrup. Once across the -river we redoubled our speed, and soon reached camp, where I found Mr. -Peary, with Gibson and Verhoeff, anxiously awaiting me. - -The next two days the boys spent in packing their provisions and -equipment over the bluffs to the edge of the ice, while I stayed in camp -and cooked, and Ikwa put in his time hunting. On the fourth day, Monday, -September 7, right after lunch, the boys left with their last load, and -in spite of the snow, which had been falling lightly all day, determined -to keep on to the inland ice. Dr. Cook accompanied them, helping them -carry their provisions to the edge of the ice, and on his return we were -to start for Redcliffe. - -[Illustration: - - LOOKING DOWN INTO THE SUN GLACIER FJORD FROM THE ICE-CAP. -] - -[Illustration: - - The Crew of the “Faith.” - - Cook. Ikwa. Gibson. Astrup. Verhoeff. -] - -Just as everything had been stowed away in the boat, a wind-storm came -down upon us which threatened to blow our little craft upon the rocks. -The sea was rough and the wind cold, which made the time of waiting for -the doctor seem very long. At last we were joined by our companion, who -told us that he had left the inland ice-party ensconced in their -sleeping-bags, and that it was snowing furiously upon the ice-cap. When -we reached Redcliffe seven hours later, we found everything white and -about ten inches of snow on the ground. - - - - - CHAPTER V - BOAT JOURNEYS AND PREPARATIONS FOR WINTER - - Return to Head of McCormick Bay for Deer—Footprints on the - Shore—Successful Deer Hunt—Meeting with the Returning Inland Ice - Party—Astrup and Gibson Make a Second Attempt on the - Ice-cap—Attempted Boat Trip up Whale Sound—Stopped by the New - Ice—Exciting Battle with Walrus—Dr. Cook and Matt Tramp to - Nowdingyah’s—Last of the Boat Trips—Setting up the Stove—My - Experience with a Snow-slide—Final Return of the Inland Ice - Party—Preparing Redcliffe for Winter. - - -We were all pretty tired the next day, and Mr. Peary decided to wait -another day or two before starting on a second hunting-expedition to the -head of the bay. It was Thursday morning, September 10, when we nailed -up our doors and, out of regard for “social custom,” tacked a card on -the front door, which read: “Have gone to Tooktoo Valley for two or -three days’ hunt. Visitors will please leave their cards,” and then -headed our boat eastward. - -In order to avail ourselves of the breeze, we were obliged to cross the -bay and then tack. When about half-way it was decided to run ashore and -prepare lunch. As soon as the keel of the boat grated on the sand, Ikwa -jumped out to make the bow-line fast, but he had hardly touched the -ground before he gave utterance to a cry of surprise, and pointed to -footprints in the sand. In a moment we were all excitement. The -footprints were those of two persons walking in the direction of -Redcliffe. What a peculiar sensation it is to find signs of human beings -in a place where you believe yourself and party to be the only -inhabitants! After examining them carefully, Ikwa said Gibson and -Verhoeff had passed down the beach that morning. This worried Mr. Peary, -for the supposition was that something must have happened to one of the -party, and the other two were bringing him to Redcliffe. He was -reassured, however, in a few minutes; for on following the footprints a -little distance, I found the prints of all three of the boys, and we -knew that the inland ice-party had returned. Knowing that they would -make themselves comfortable at the house, Mr. Peary decided to keep on -to the hunting-grounds, which we reached in the early afternoon. During -our three days’ stay in this lovely valley, Matt and Ikwa bagged nine -deer; I myself went hunting once or twice, but without success. Most of -my time was devoted to taking photographs of the glaciers in the -vicinity, and keeping camp. The sand along the shore was too deep and -the hills were too steep for Mr. Peary to take long walks in any -direction, and he was glad to have company in camp. - -On Monday we loaded our boat with the trophies of the chase, and sailed -for home. When within three and a half miles of the house, we saw Astrup -and Verhoeff coming up the beach, and we immediately hailed them, and -pulled for the shore. They got into the boat, and during our sail home -Astrup told of the continued storm on the ice-cap; how the deep snow had -prevented their making more than one or one and a half miles per day; -that Verhoeff had frozen his face, and that they had then decided to -return to Redcliffe, report the condition of the traveling, and see if -Mr. Peary wished them to keep on. After reaching Redcliffe, Mr. Peary -gave the inland ice-party a few days’ rest, and then sent them in the -“Faith,” our largest whale-boat, back to the head of McCormick Bay to -bring home their equipment and place all the provisions in a cache which -would be easily accessible. Gibson and Verhoeff were to put in two or -three days hunting deer, while Astrup was to make a careful examination -of the cliffs and glaciers to ascertain the most practicable route to -the ice-cap with dogs and sledges. They returned in four days, and we -immediately began work changing the equipment to make it suitable for -two persons instead of three, and dried out the sleeping-bags -thoroughly. Three days afterward, September 22, Astrup and Gibson again -set out for the inland ice. - -[Illustration: - - Walrus on Ice-cake.—Off Herbert Island. -] - -Wednesday, September 23. This morning at 9.30 Mr. Peary, Matt, Dr. Cook, -Ikwa, and myself started in the “Mary Peary” for a trip up Inglefield -Gulf. There was not a breath of air stirring, and the boys had to row -from the start. Before we had gone a mile, several burgomasters flew -over our heads, and we next came upon a flock of eiders, but did not get -within gunshot. When just off Cape Cleveland, we caught sight of several -walrus in the middle of the bay, and made for them. A number of shots -were fired, and some of the animals were wounded; but as Ikwa said we -should be sure to find “amis-su-ar” (plenty) “awick” in the gulf, we did -not wait for them to come again to the surface. After a two hours’ rest -we proceeded up the gulf, but were stopped by the heavy new ice, which -we could almost see forming in our wake. It being certain that we could -not make further progress by the boat, Mr. Peary decided to have a -walrus-hunt for the purpose of obtaining ivory. We could see the walrus -in every direction, and headed the boat for a cake of ice with about -fifteen of the creatures asleep on it. The boys were told to pull for -all they were worth until the order was given to stop. Mr. Peary then -took his camera, and he became so absorbed in getting his photo just -right that he forgot to give the order to stop until the boat was so -near the cake of ice that before anything could be done she ran on it at -least four feet, throwing her bow straight up into the air. The walrus, -jumping into the water from under her, careened the boat to port until -she shipped water, throwing Matt flat on his back; then with a jerk -(which proved to come from an animal Ikwa had harpooned) she was -righted, and we were skimming over the water, through the new ice, towed -by the harpooned walrus. This performance lasted at least twenty -minutes, during which time the boys kept up a constant volley at the -walrus that besieged us on every side to revenge their wounded -companions. There were at least two hundred and fifty around us at one -time, and it seemed as if it would be impossible to keep the animals -from attacking us; but by steady firing we managed to hold them at oar’s -length. This kept me busy reloading the rifles. I thought it about an -even chance whether I would be shot or drowned. - -I cannot describe my feelings when these monsters surrounded us, their -great tusks almost touching the boat, and the bullets whistling about my -ears in every direction. Whenever a volley of shots greeted them, the -whole bunch jumped into the air and then plunged under water, leaving us -in doubt as to where they would reappear. If they should happen to come -up under the boat, we should probably be the ones to take the plunge; -this uncertainty was very exciting, especially as the brutes went down -and came up in bunches, leaving us seventy-five or a hundred to fight -while the rest plunged. - -Ikwa had evidently never seen so many “awick” at one time, and became -very much frightened, finally pounding the sides of the boat with his -harpoon and yelling at the top of his voice, in which he was joined by -Matt. When we finally got out of the turmoil we had four heads with -tusks, and would have had more, but the bodies sank before we could -secure them. As we could not proceed up the gulf in the boat, we camped -about three miles southeast of Cape Cleveland. The boat was pulled up on -a bit of sandy beach, and with the aid of the boat-hooks and a couple of -tarpaulins we fixed up a very comfortable boat-tent. - -Thursday, September 24. It was decided last night that Matt and Dr. Cook -should set out on foot for “Nowdingyah’s,” an Eskimo camp of which we -had been in search; so we had coffee early, and by eight o’clock the -boys started off with their rifles and some pemmican.[2] About ten -o’clock the boys came in woefully tired, vowing that they had walked -forty miles, and reported finding Nowdingyah’s camp, but all four igloos -were deserted. Ikwa said that their owners were “pehter-ang-ito” (far -away) hunting; these northern Eskimos are in the habit of leaving their -settlements, to which they periodically return. - -Footnote 2: - - It may be of interest to my readers to know just what pemmican is. The - best lean beef is cut in strips and dried until it can be pulverized, - then it is mixed with an equal quantity of beef suet. To this mixture - are added sugar and currants to suit the taste, and the whole is - heated through until the suet has melted and mixed with the other - ingredients, when it is poured into cans and hermetically sealed. It - is only a modification of the old-fashioned way of preserving meat - when whole families drove out on the prairies and hunted buffalo. As - soon as shot the buffalo was skinned and the green skin sewed into a - bag, into which the meat, after it had been sun-dried and mixed with - the suet, was packed. As the skin dried and shrunk, it compressed the - meat, which in this way was preserved indefinitely. Pemmican is not at - all unpleasant to the taste, especially if eaten with cranberry jam. - -Friday, September 25. Just before we left camp at eleven o’clock, an -amusing incident occurred. Ikwa, who had been skirmishing for the past -hour, returned in a jubilant frame of mind, and announced his discovery -of a cached seal. He asked Mr. Peary if he might bring the seal to -Redcliffe in the boat, saying it was the finest kind of eating for -himself and family. We could not understand why this particular seal -should be so much nicer than those he had at Redcliffe; but as he seemed -very eager to have it, we gave him the desired permission, and off he -started, saying that he would be back very soon. About half an hour -later the air became filled with the most horrible stench it has ever -been my misfortune to endure, and it grew worse and worse until at last -we were forced to make an investigation. Going to the corner of the -cliff, we came upon the Eskimo carrying upon his back an immense seal, -which had every appearance of having been buried at least two years. -Great fat maggots dropped from it at every step that Ikwa made, and the -odor was really terrible. Mr. Peary told him that it was out of the -question to put that thing in the boat; and, indeed, it was doubtful if -we would not be obliged to hang the man himself overboard in order to -disinfect and purify him. But this child of nature did not see the -point, and was very angry at being obliged to leave his treasure. After -he was through pouting, he told us that the more decayed the seal the -finer the eating, and he could not understand why we should object. He -thought the odor “pe-uh-di-och-soah” (very good). - -At noon we passed Cape Cleveland, homeward bound, and an hour later -reached Redcliffe. The house seemed very cold and chilly after the -bright sunshine. Verhoeff, who had been left in charge, greeted us, and -we soon had all the oil-stoves going, bread baking, rice cooking, beans -heating, venison broiling, and coffee dripping, and at two o’clock all -sat down to dinner and then turned in. - -Tuesday, September 29. The last three days have been spent in -hunting-explorations on the north shore and in preparations for the -winter. The stove has been put up, the windows doubled, and the house -made generally air-tight. We find the ice in the bay becoming firmer day -by day, and in one of our expeditions we found it all but impossible to -force the boat through it. Mr. Peary has now left off his splints and -bandages, and has even laid aside his crutches. After lunch to-day I -started out with a couple of fox-traps, and put them in the gorge about -a mile back of the house. The day was fine, and I enjoyed my walk, -although I came in for an unpleasant scare. After leaving the traps, I -thought I would go over the mountains into the valley beyond, and see if -I could find deer. Half-way up, about a thousand feet above sea-level, -the snow began to slide under me, taking the shales of sandstone along -with it, and of course I went too, down, down, trying to stop myself by -digging my heels into the snow and attempting to grasp the stones as -they flew by; but I kept on, and a cliff about two hundred feet from the -bottom, over which I would surely be hurled if I did not succeed in -stopping myself, was the only thing which I could see that could arrest -my progress. At last I stopped about half-way down. What saved me I do -not know. At first I was afraid to move for fear I should begin sliding -again; but as I grew more courageous I looked about me, and finally on -hands and knees I succeeded in getting on firm ground. I did not -continue my climb, but returned to the house in a roundabout way. - -Mr. Peary had the fire started in the big stove, and finds that it works -admirably. The trouble will be to keep the fire low enough. Ikwa -indulged in a regular war-dance at the sight of the blaze, never before -having seen so much fire, and for the first few moments kept putting his -fingers on the stove to see how warm it was. He soon found it too hot. -He has been getting his sledge, dog-harness, spears, etc., in readiness -for the winter’s hunt after seal. - -Wednesday, September 30. Toward noon Matt came running in shouting, -“Here are the boys, sir!” and sure enough Astrup and Gibson were here, -bringing nothing but their snow-shoes with them. They were on the ice -just a week, and estimate the distance traveled inland at thirty miles, -and the greatest elevation reached at 4600 feet. They returned because -it was too cold and the snow too deep for traveling. At the same time, -they admit that they were not cold while on the march, and they do not -think the temperature was more than 10° below zero; but as Gibson -stepped on and broke the thermometer on the third day, up to which time -the lowest had been –2°, they had no way of telling for certain. -Gibson’s feet were blistered, he having forgotten to put excelsior or -grass in his kamiks. He believes that with the moral support of a large -party they can easily make from ten to fifteen miles per day. - -Thursday, October 1. The day has been fine; the house is gradually -assuming a cozy as well as comfortable appearance under Mr. Peary’s -supervision. He is about from morning until night, limping a great deal, -but he has put aside his crutches for good. At night his foot and leg -are swollen very much, but after the night’s rest look better, although -far from normal. Ikwa went out on the ice to-day for some distance to -test its strength. I took my daily walk to the fox-traps, and as usual -found no foxes had been near them. - -Sunday, October 4. Nothing of any consequence has taken place since the -return of the explorers. The boys have been at work on the house, -hanging blankets, putting up shelves, etc. Friday I found one of my -traps sprung, and a great many tracks around it, but no fox. On Saturday -we went down to the point one quarter of a mile below the house, Mr. -Peary walking without cane or crutch, and set a fox-trap on the rocks -near some tracks. All this time the weather has been perfect. To-day Dr. -Cook tried going out on the ice, but it did not hold him. The bunks of -the boys have been placed against the east side of the large room and -separate curtains furnished. The winter routine of four-hourly watches -throughout the twenty-four hours was begun to-day, the boys taking them -in turn. - -Monday, October 5. It has been cloudy all day long, but with a -temperature of about 12°. It still seems warm, as there is no wind -whatever. I went to my fox-traps this forenoon, and found the view from -the heights very fine. The clouds hung low, and gave a soft gray -background for the blue bergs which gleamed on every side of a long -black strip of water—the open sea—in the far distance. The light that -fell on Northumberland Island decked it in a bright yellow, while the -cliffs across the bay were black in the dark shadow. - -The boys brought the “Mary Peary” up and turned her over, supporting her -on pillars built of blocks of ice. Here Mr. Peary intends to put such -provisions as we may need for our boat journey home next summer, -covering the whole thing with snow. The “Faith” has been turned over -against the front wall, and a place fixed under her for the Newfoundland -dogs, Jack and Frank. As soon as we have enough snow the house, too, -will be banked in with it. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER VI - WINTER UPON US - - McCormick Bay Frozen over—First Sledge Trip to the Head of the Bay for - Deer—Shaky New Ice—First Aurora—The Strange Light on the Opposite - Shore—First Visit from the Natives—Return of our Hunting-party with - Ten Deer—More Natives—Second Severe Snow-storm of the Season—Still - more Native Visitors—Great Amusement over the White Woman—Farewell - to the Sun. - - -Tuesday, October 6. McCormick Bay is frozen over so as to support the -dogs and sledge, and Ikwa has been on several seal-hunts. He finds one -of the holes in the ice which the seals keep open all the winter and -where they come to breathe. Here he takes up his position, being careful -not to make the least noise. Sometimes he waits for hours before the -seal comes up, and sometimes the seal skips that hole entirely. When it -comes he drives his spear through the hole quick as a flash into the -head of the animal. In this way all the seals are caught during the fall -and winter. Ikwa went out on his sledge with his “mikkie” (dog) after -“pussy” (seal) to-day, but did not get any. - -The day has been, like yesterday, dark and cloudy, but the temperature -has been higher, averaging 20° instead of 12°; the wind has been blowing -quite fresh from the east. Mr. Peary has set the boys at work building a -sledge for a prospective journey to the head of the bay, and I have been -busy all day getting our room, or rather our bed, in order. All the -boxes have been removed from under the bed, to my great delight, and put -into the lean-to at the south end of the house. It felt and smelt like a -damp cellar under there, but now that the air has a chance to circulate -freely, I think it will be better. - -I have not been out of the house to-day. It is quite dark at six -o’clock, and on a cloudy day, as to-day, we lighted the lamp at five -o’clock. - -Matt has started in as lunch-maker; this gives me nearly all day to -myself. Our first table-cloth, of unbleached cotton, also made its -_début_; it is a great improvement on bare boards. - -Wednesday, October 7. This morning, at about ten o’clock, we started out -on our first sledging-trip up the bay in search of “tooktoo” (reindeer). - -Astrup, Gibson, and Matt pulled our sledge, while Jack and Frank, our -Newfoundland dogs, and Mikkie, were harnessed to Ikwa’s. We were -delighted to see that our dogs would pull, but Ikwa soon decided that -Frank was “peeuk nahmee” (no good), so the boys put him to their sledge, -but he preferred pulling backward to pulling forward; by coaxing they -persuaded him to help them somewhat, but it was always hard work to get -him started after a stop. - -[Illustration: - - MY CROSS-MATCHED TEAM.—McCORMICK BAY. -] - -After journeying about four miles, our Eskimo suddenly stopped his -sledge and explained that he did not want any more deerskins, but needed -“pussy” skins for his kamiks, or boots, kayak, tupic (tent), etc., and -he would leave us and watch the seal-holes, walking home at night. He -told us how to fasten his mikkie, and then, after I had kodaked him -sitting on his seal chair at a hole, we went on. I ran along at the -upstanders of Mr. Peary’s sledge, he being all alone; but the ice being -rather slippery and the dogs traveling along at a run, I soon found it -difficult to keep on my feet, and so jumped on the sledge with Mr. -Peary, and rode the greater part of the time. The two dogs pulled us -easily, the sledge and load weighing about five hundred pounds. The dogs -are fastened to the sledge by single traces, and are guided without -reins by the driver with a long whip and much shouting. The mikkie not -understanding our language, and Mr. Peary not knowing the Eskimo terms, -and not understanding the language of the whip, we had no means of -guiding our team; besides, in many places the ice had to be tested by a -member of the party going ahead with an alpenstock and “feeling” it. -Often detours had to be made, and several times we had to rush over -places where the ice buckled under us, and it seemed as though it must -let us through; for these reasons we allowed the other sledge to take -the lead. This we could do only by stopping and letting the boys get one -fourth or one half of a mile ahead; then, giving our dogs the word, they -would scud along at the top of their speed, not making any attempt to -stop until they had caught up to the other sledge, which they did in a -few minutes. In this way we finally reached the head of the bay shortly -after six. We immediately set about putting up the tent and arranging -our sleeping gear, and Mr. Peary got the stove ready and put on ice for -tea, and also a can of beans to heat. I was disabled by a sick-headache. - - -During the next few days the boys made a number of unsuccessful -hunting-expeditions, and their failure decided us to return to -Redcliffe. The mercury had already descended at nights to –4°, yet I did -not feel the low temperature, and indeed had not felt uncomfortably cold -for more than a few minutes at a time. On the 9th, at noon, just half -the disk of the sun appeared over the top of the mountain back of the -glacier, and it was evident that we were in the shadow of the Arctic -winter. Two days later we saw the first aurora—not a good one, however. - -Monday, October 12. Back again at Redcliffe. In the evening Matt came in -very much excited, saying that there was a moving light on the opposite -shore. We all rushed out to see it. How queer it seems to be the only -human beings on this coast! Ikwa said Eskimos were eating their supper, -and would be here to-morrow. Astrup fired a rifle. - -Tuesday, October 13. About three o’clock this afternoon Mané came in and -said “Innuit” (Eskimo) was coming with “kamutee” (sledge) and “mikkie” -(dog). We ran out, and with the aid of the glass saw two Eskimos, one of -them Ikwa, and a sledge drawn by three dogs. The strange “husky” turned -out to be Nowdingyah, whose deserted camp we visited last month. He is -much larger in every way than Ikwa, and seems bright and intelligent. -When offered a knife in exchange for one of his dogs, he said the dog we -wanted was the leader of his team of bear-dogs, specially trained, but -he would come again by and by and then give us three others. We have now -little difficulty in understanding the natives, or making ourselves -understood by signs. - -Saturday, October 17. The weather still continues lovely, although the -days are rapidly getting shorter. Late Thursday night Ikwa, who had -departed with our visitor, returned, telling us that the natives where -Nowdingyah lived would soon come over to see us; he also said that -Nowdingyah had seven puppy-dogs, and this is why he was so willing to -give us three. Ikwa has been laying in a supply of sealskins for a tupic -and kayak, and says he will need fifteen for these articles alone; he -will require an additional supply for kamiks for himself and family. The -seal is evidently the most valuable animal of the chase to the natives, -who utilize every particle of it for food or clothing. About three -o’clock we discovered the boys, who had gone to Five-Glacier Valley, on -the opposite side of the bay, coming across the ice, and about an hour -later they arrived jubilant with a load of ten deerskins, one blue fox, -and one Arctic hare. Gibson had also shot two seals, which they could -not, however, bring with them, as the ice was too thin for the hunters -to reach their booty. Still later Ikwa came in, and said “Innuits -pingersut” (Eskimos three), “kamutee martluk” (sledges two), were -coming; and in a few minutes Nowdingyah, Arrotochsuah, and Kayunah -landed with two sledges and five dogs. Arrotochsuah is an old man with -gray hair, but looks exactly like a woman; Kayunah is a young man, -stutters badly, and while he has a decidedly idiotic appearance he has a -fox-like expression about the eyes and nose, and accordingly he has been -dubbed the “Fox.” Nowdingyah is the only one of the Eskimos who has hair -on his face, and he has a little mustache and imperial which give to him -something of a Japanese touch. - -[Illustration: - - Arrotochsuah Fashioning a Spear. -] - -Sunday, October 18. Mr. Peary has been on the jump all day, getting odds -and ends to trade with the natives. He has secured three very fine -seal-spears, one walrus-lance—all with fine lines of walrus-hide—an -“ikkimer” (soapstone blubber lamp), a drill, and two dogs and a sledge. -The natives left early in the afternoon, the old man being tired, having -been obliged to sleep out on the beach on his sledge, with no shelter, -as there was no room in Ikwa’s igloo; he walked about the greater part -of the night to keep warm. - -Monday, October 19. Astrup and Verhoeff went to-day to Cape Cleveland, -and put up a flag-pole and signal for use in surveying. Mr. Peary is -fixing up my lockers with cardboard, preparatory to putting up the -curtains. So far the weather has been fine; we have full moon, and this -makes it seem less like night, but at 8 A. M. it is still quite dark. -From about eleven until two, the coloring on land, ice, snow, and sky is -beautiful, all the delicate shades being brought out to best advantage. -We took two short strolls, fixed up the curtains about the range and -lockers, and then I did a little sewing. To-night the wind is blowing -fiercely from the south. - -Wednesday, October 21. Last night we had our first wind-storm since the -second night of our encampment here, when I was in the tent alone with -Mr. Peary, who was strapped down to a plank. The wind rattled things in -a lively manner, and the boys on duty had to go out every fifteen -minutes and inspect the premises to see that nothing was loosened or -blown away. This wind from the southeast continued until five o’clock -this morning, when it abated somewhat. The day has been cloudy. The boys -have put up a snow-hut for the dogs, and one for their own convenience, -in which to experiment with their fur clothing and sleeping-bags. - -Thursday, October 22. My brother Henry’s birthday. We drank his health -and prosperity in a bottle of Haute Sauterne, as we did my brother -Emil’s eleven days before. My husband and I are keeping house alone. All -the boys have gone on a deer hunting expedition, while Ikwa, with the -dogs, is after hares. We have had Mané here all day at work on a pattern -deerskin stocking. The day has been dark and cloudy, and it has snowed -lightly. - -Friday, October 23. Last night it snowed a very little, and this morning -it is cloudy and gloomy. We sat up till midnight, then the alarm was set -for two o’clock, at which time coal had to be put on the fire—an -operation to be repeated at four, and again at six. Mané has been with -us all day, with her two piccaninnies, at work on deerskin stockings. -The elder child, Anadore, is just at the age (two years) when she is -into everything, and she tried our patience to the limit. We cannot -allow Mané to take the furs to her igloo to sew, as they would be filled -with “koomakshuey” (parasites), and some one must stay in the room with -her to superintend her work. I am doing very little besides getting the -meals and fixing up odd jobs about the rooms; reading Greely’s work is -about the extent of my labor. To-night at nine o’clock the thermometer -is 10°, and the moon is shining brightly. - -Sunday, October 25. This morning there was about three inches of new -snow on the ground, and the cliffs back of the house are beginning to -look white. About 2 P. M. huskies were seen coming across the bay, and a -half-hour later they had arrived,—Kayunah, his “koonah” (wife) and three -piccaninnies, and Arrotochsuah, his koonah and one piccaninny. -Arrotochsuah’s koonah was very much amused at me, and kept screaming -“Chimo koonah!” (Welcome woman!) until I said “Chimo! Chimo!” and then -she laughed and laughed. The other woman was more quiet. These Eskimos -are much cleaner and more presentable people than Ikwa and his family. -Later in the evening I gave each woman two needles, a cake of soap, and -a box of matches. Arrotochsuah’s koonah presented me with a spoon made -by herself from a piece of walrus tusk, and used by her piccaninny, -Magda, a boy about twelve years old, ever since he could feed himself. -In return I gave the boy a looking-glass, and I made a similar present -to Kayunah’s smallest. Mr. Peary allowed all hands to sleep on the floor -in the boys’ room. It is amusing to listen to the conversation between -our men and the huskies. In one instance the boys could not quite make -out whether a man had died from eating walrus or the walrus had eaten -him, etc. - -Monday, October 26. To-day is the last day the sun will be above the -horizon until February 13th. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER VII - ESKIMO VISITORS - - Our Visitors Leave for their Homes—Departure of a Party to Build a - Stone Hut in Tooktoo Valley—Arrival of the Most Northerly Family in - the World—The Last Hunting-party of the Season Goes to Five-Glacier - Valley—Still the Natives Come—Mama’s Birthday—Finishing Touches to - our Winter Quarters—Eclipse of the Moon—Beginning of the Winter - Routine—Matt Installed as Cook—Thanksgiving. - - -Wednesday, October 28. Yesterday Nowdingyah and his piccaninny, a little -girl about two and a half years old, put in their appearance. The child -was nicely dressed in a blue-fox “kapetah” (overcoat) and seal cap -trimmed with fox, but she was not as pretty as Kayunah’s little one. I -gave her a looking-glass, too, which amused her father as much as it did -the child. After supper Mr. Peary brought out his reading-glass, and -Arrotochsuah’s wife immediately said she had seen a white man have one -at the northern settlement of Etah, and she showed us how he had used it -as a burning-glass. We are all curious to know what party of white men -she had seen. The whole evening till midnight was spent in taking -flashlight photographs of the Eskimos and ethnological measurements of -Kayunah. - -Our Eskimo visitors left for their homes this morning. At noon the boys, -with Dr. Cook in charge, started for Five-Glacier Valley to hunt -reindeer and to bring the cached venison down to the edge of the ice, -where Ikwa will call for it in a few days and bring it back on the -sledge. The boys will then proceed to the head of the bay, and under Dr. -Cook’s direction build a stone igloo for the use of the inland ice-party -next spring. About three o’clock Matt returned for a tin of biscuits -which had been forgotten, and informed us that Verhoeff had frozen his -nose and face severely, and that Astrup’s cheeks had also been nipped. -The temperature was –10°, and a fresh southeaster was blowing across the -bay. Ikwa and Mané came in this afternoon and added quite a number of -words to our Eskimo vocabulary; the former also gave us an account of -the murder of his father by tattooed natives while out after bear off -Saunders Island. - -Saturday, October 31. Ikwa started this morning with the sledge and dogs -for Arrotochsuah’s igloo, where he expects to get a load of hay. About 2 -P. M., while we were out, Mr. Peary shoveling snow against the wall, we -saw a dark object on the ice, and with the aid of the glass made out a -sledge and two people, but they did not seem to get any nearer, and in a -short time disappeared. About six they arrived—Annowkah, his wife -M’gipsu, and an awful-looking baby of about two months. They came from -Nerki, a place beyond Arrotochsuah’s, two days’ journey from Redcliffe. -They are cleaner and more intelligent-looking than any natives we have -yet seen. In conversation we discovered that they were the most -northerly family of Greenland, and consequently of the globe. - -Mr. Peary and I are having great times keeping house by ourselves; he -brings in the snow for water, the coal and coal-oil, and keeps watch -during the night, while I cook, wash dishes, sweep (without a broom—the -only article of importance that was overlooked in the preparations for -our Arctic journey), and look after Mané, who is here with her two -children working on the reindeer skins. We shall not be sorry when the -boys return and take some of these duties off our shoulders. - -[Illustration: - - Prepared for Winter.—My South Window. -] - -Thursday, November 5. Jack is the father of eight jet-black pups. The -days are only a few hours long now, but the darkness is not yet the -darkness of a winter night at home. Mr. Peary’s leg is improving -steadily, and he seems more like himself. The strain has told on both of -us, and I am glad it is over. He put up his writing-desk yesterday, and -our room is almost fixed for the winter, and looks very cozy. We have -been busy putting up the rest of the blankets in our room, and have -closed the side window and one half of the end window. As daylight has -almost entirely departed this will make no difference in the amount of -our illumination, and the room will be much warmer, although thus far we -have had no cause to complain, the thermometer not having registered -below 16° at any time. - -Our house is by no means a palace, nor do its interior fixings even -remotely suggest luxury. We have two rooms, the smaller of which, -measuring twelve feet by seven and a half, has been reserved for Mr. -Peary and myself, while the larger, of not quite double the size, is -used as the general “living-room,” besides affording sleeping-quarters -to the boys. A dining or “mess” table, a few rude chairs, a bookcase, -and the “bunks” built to the east wall, constitute the furniture, of -which it can in truth be said there is no superabundance. The red -blanketing which has been tacked all over the inside walls and the -ceiling, seven feet overhead, imparts a warm feeling to the interior, -and relieves what would otherwise be a cheerless expanse of boards and -tar paper. Our stove in the partition-wall between the two rooms is so -placed as to give a goodly supply of heat to the lowest stratum of the -atmosphere. - -The shell of the house is made of inch boards, lined inside and outside -with two-ply and three-ply tarred paper, which is made to fit as nearly -air-tight as possible. To the inside of the ten-inch rafters and posts -we have nailed a lining of heavy cardboard, which forms a support to the -blanketing, besides making a complete inner shell of its own. Between -the two shells there is free air space, which will greatly help to -retain the warmth in the rooms. - -A stone wall has been built around the house four feet away from it, and -on it we shall store our boxes of provisions, and then stretch a canvas -cover over to the roof of the house. Our corridor will thus be sheltered -as well as the house, and even in the most inclement weather we shall be -able to breathe pure air and have outdoor exercise. With the first heavy -snow everything will be plastered over with this natural fleece, and -cold though it may be on the outside, we hope to keep quite comfortable -within. - -Saturday, November 7. To-day has been reception day. We have to-night -seventeen huskies in our camp, and I don’t know how many dogs; if I were -to judge by the howling and yelping, I should say at least fifty. I have -been under the weather for the last two days, but feel better to-night. - -Sunday, November 8. We generally devote Sunday to sleep; the boys, -except the watchman, turn in right after breakfast and sleep till lunch. -We have a cold supper, which saves me the trouble of cooking Sunday -afternoon. We usually have pemmican and cranberry sauce, salmon, hot -biscuits, chocolate, and fruit. Arrotochsuah and his family moved into a -snow-igloo to-day. - -Monday, November 9. Mama’s birthday. My thoughts have been at home and -with her all day, and I am sure she has thought of me. I do not even -know where she is. In my mind I have seen sister Mayde at work on -something mysterious for the past week. I must try to put my mind on -something else or I shall have a spell of homesickness. I placed a -bamboo pole across the front of our bed and draped the two United States -flags (one belonging to the National Geographical Society of Washington, -and the other to the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences) _à la -portière_ across the front; then on the wall just beside my place I have -hung the photographs of my dear ones. - -[Illustration: - - Frank. -] - -Saturday, November 14. Very little worthy of note has happened this -week. My daily routine is always the same; I take my coffee in bed, then -get lunch for my family, take a walk afterward, usually with Mr. Peary, -then sew or read, and at four o’clock begin to get dinner. Last Thursday -Gibson initiated Frank into dragging a load of ice from the berg to the -house. Yesterday was lovely and clear, and the full moon which we have -throughout the twenty-four hours, made it as bright as day. Our walk -to-day was to the berg, a mile distant (as measured by our newly -finished odometer wheel), and return—the first long walk Mr. Peary has -taken; his leg did not feel any worse for the trip, but was considerably -more swollen at night. Frank to-day for the first time behaved very well -in hauling ice. - -Sunday, November 15. This has been a lovely day. How much I should like -to take a peep at the home folks! To-night we have had the eclipse of -the moon. It was first noticed about 7.30, and Mr. Peary watched it -carefully, making observations with his transit and chronometer. About -nine o’clock Arrotochsuah arrived from Netchiolumy,[3] on Barden Bay, -accompanied by one of his sons and another young man. The first we -immediately nicknamed the “Smiler,” and the other the “Villain,” owing -to the expressions on their faces. - -Footnote 3: - - Erroneously called by most geographers Ittiblu. - -Tuesday, November 17. Yesterday was an exceptionally fine day, -beautifully moonlit. The “Villain” of Netchiolumy has a sledge made of -the boards which Dr. Cook traded for a tupic when the “Kite” stopped at -the settlement in July. This morning Ikwa introduced a rather -clean-looking native from Omanooy, a place this side of Akpani, on -Saunders Island; his name is Kioppadu. Our sewing progresses slowly, -Arrotochsuah’s wife, whom we had installed as seamstress, being too old -to prepare the skins by the time-honored native method of chewing. Matt -got supper to-night, and will from now until May I prepare all the meals -under my supervision. This gives me more time to myself, besides not -confining me to the house. It was no easy task for me to cook for six -boys, and for such appetites. - -Thursday, November 19. We have had our first real winter snow-storm -to-day. The wind whistled, and the snow was driven into every crack and -crevice. Just before noon Kayunah and family came; Makzangwa, his wife, -is going to chew skins for us. They will live in the snow-igloo, having -brought all their household effects with them; these consist of the -soapstone blubber lamp or stove, a reindeer skin as a coverlet for the -bed (which is merely a bundle of hay on some pieces of board given them -by us), a few rabbit and gull skins for wraps for the feet, and a -sealskin to put against the wall behind the bed. When these articles are -put inside the igloo, their house is furnished. - -Saturday, November 21. A clear day; the stars are twinkling and the air -is delightful, but one must exercise to keep warm. Since Matt does the -cooking, I take long walks every day, and find them very agreeable. We -had a general house-cleaning to-day, and will have it now every -Saturday. We have been obliged to dismiss the Eskimos from the -living-room during meal-time, as their odor is too offensive. - -Sunday, November 22. Kayunah came in this morning, and said that our -coffee and biscuit made his family sick, and as they had no more seal -meat they must go home. Mr. Peary gave them permission to help -themselves to the walrus stacked up behind our house, and the Eskimo was -satisfied. Ikwa and Kyo (Kioppadu) have gone over to the settlement of -Igloodahominy, on Robertson Bay, after blue foxes. - -Monday, November 23. It grows gradually darker every day. To-day at noon -it was impossible to read ordinary print by daylight. Mr. Verhoeff went -on the cliffs to look at his thermometer, and found that it read higher -than those at Redcliffe. Ikwa and his brother returned about noon -without foxes or game of any kind. We had a faint aurora this evening. -On the whole I am very much disappointed in the auroras; I thought we -should have very beautiful displays in the Arctic regions, but it seems -that we are too far north of the magnetic pole. - -Wednesday, November 25. The days are rather unsatisfactory, although I -keep busy all day sewing, mending, rearranging my room, etc. When I sum -up at bedtime what I have accomplished, it is very little. Mr. Peary and -the boys are busily at work on some test sledges. This afternoon -Annowkah and M’gipsu returned, bringing with them a twelve-year-old -girl, named Tookymingwah, whose father was dragged under the ice and -drowned a few weeks ago by an infuriated “oogzook” seal (_Phoca -barbata?_) which he had harpooned. She has a mother and two sisters, who -will be here soon. - -Mr. Peary issued the Thanksgiving proclamation, and I have been busy -getting things ready for the Thanksgiving dinner, which I told Matt I -would prepare. Our cooking and baking is all done on oil-stoves; since I -have only three ovens I baked my pies to-day, as I shall need all the -stoves and ovens to-morrow. This forenoon I went out to our berg, -accompanied by Mr. Peary and my two Newfoundland dogs, after a load of -ice. It is rather a novel idea to me, chopping ice from the stately -icebergs and melting it for drinking and cooking purposes. - -Thursday, November 26. Thanksgiving day, and all work is suspended. -Before lunch I went down to Cape Cleveland with Mr. Peary to see how -much daylight still remains toward the south. The sky was tinged with -rose near the southern horizon, and the moon was just coming up from -behind Northumberland Island. How strange it is that while we have no -sunlight whatever, we know that at home they are having day and night -just as usual! The temperature was 12½° F. Dinner was served at 7 P. M. -All the boys wore American clothing, and the room was draped with the -Stars and Stripes. - - - - - CHAPTER VIII - ARCTIC FESTIVITIES - - Creeping Toward the Winter Solstice—Household Economy—The - Holidays—Christmas Amusements—Christmas Dinner to the - Natives—New-Year Festivities—Moonlight Snow-shoe Tramps—Reception in - the South Parlor. - - -Wednesday, December 2. Thanksgiving has come and gone. We had a very -pleasant time, and enjoyed our dinner as much as any one at home. The -only difference between day and night at Redcliffe is that during the -day in addition to the bracket-lamps we have a large Rochester lamp -burning. The huskies, as we continue to call the natives, have named it -the “mickaniny sukinuk” (baby sun). Matt lights it at 8 A. M., and the -officer on watch puts it out at 10 P. M. Mr. Peary has made a rule that -no member of the party, unless ill, shall occupy his bunk between the -hours of 8 A. M. and 7 P. M. He has also changed from the four-hour -watches to twelve-hour watches; thus one man has the night watch for a -whole week, and during this time sleeps in the daytime, and one man has -the day watch. At the end of a week these two men are relieved by two -others. The boys think they like this arrangement very much better. The -native whom Ikwa brought back with him from Keati is named Mahoatchia, -and Ikwa says that he and the one-eyed bear-hunter, Mekhtoshay, of -Netchiolumy, exchange wives with each other every year. It is -interesting to note that these two men are the only ones in the tribe -who indulge in this practice, yet the other men seem to think it all -right; but the women are not at all satisfied with this social -arrangement. - -[Illustration: - - OUR FRIENDS ABOUT REDCLIFFE. -] - -If some of our dear ones at home could look down upon us now they would -be surprised to find how comfortable and contented we are. Everybody is -busily engaged in getting the equipment and clothing ready for the long -spring sledge journey over the inland ice. Mr. Peary gives me an idea of -what kind of garments he wants, and I am making experimental outfits out -of canton flannel, which, when satisfactory, will be used as patterns by -which the skins will be cut, thus avoiding the chance of wasting any of -the valuable furs. While I am at work on this, two native women, -M’gipsu, wife of Annowkah, with her baby on her back, and Tookymingwah, -the twelve-year-old girl, are both sitting tailor-fashion on the floor, -chewing deerskins. The native method of treating the skins of all -animals intended for clothing, is first to rid them of as much of the -fat as can be got off by scraping with a knife; then they are stretched -as tight as possible, and allowed to become perfectly dry. After this -they are taken by the women and chewed and sucked all over in order to -get as much of the grease out as possible; then they are again dried and -scraped with a dull implement so as to break the fibers, making the -skins pliable. Chewing the skins is very hard on the women, and all of -it is done by them; they cannot chew more than two deerskins per day, -and are obliged to rest their jaws every other day. - -Kyo, Ikwa’s brother, and Annowkah come in occasionally and scrape some -of the skins after they have been chewed. Kyo especially tries to make -himself useful. He presents rather a comical appearance in his bearskin -nanookies and blue guernsey given him by one of the boys. Every time he -sees any shavings or other trash on the floor he seizes the broom, made -by him out of the wings of eider-ducks, and sweeps it up. Mr. Peary and -the boys are carpentering from morning till night, and every day we -assure one another that we do not mind the Arctic night at all; but I -don’t think that any of us will object to seeing the sun again. - -Thursday, December 10. A whole week has passed since I wrote in my -journal. We have had one or two very disagreeable days, the wind making -it too unpleasant for my daily walk. - -[Illustration: - - M’gipsu Sewing. -] - -We have been busy working on the fur outfits. I have succeeded in -getting satisfactory patterns for Mr. Peary; Mané and M’gipsu are -sewing. The former is a poor sewer, but M’gipsu is very neat as well as -rapid, and I have suggested to Mr. Peary that he offer her an inducement -if she will stay and sew until all the garments are completed. She -understands us and we understand her better than any of the other -natives, including Ikwa and Mané, although they have been with us fully -ten weeks longer. I hope it is not a case of new broom, and that she -will wear well. The little girl Tookymingwah, whom we all call “Tooky,” -is a neat little seamstress, but is not very rapid. A few days ago her -mother, named Klayuh, but always called by us the “Widow,” arrived with -her two younger daughters, the youngest about five years old. I asked -her if she had only the three children, and she burst into tears and -left the house without answering me. Turning to M’gipsu, I asked her -what it meant, and she said it was “peuk nahmee” (not well) for me to -ask Klayuh about other children. When I insisted upon knowing why, she -took me aside and whispered that Klayuh had just killed her youngest -child, about two years of age, by strangling it. She went on to explain -that it was perfectly right for Klayuh to do this, as the father of the -child had been killed, and she could not support the children herself, -and no man would take her as a wife so long as she had a child small -enough to be carried in the hood. I asked her if this was always done, -and she said: “Oh, yes, the women are compelled to do it.” - -Mr. Peary has spoken to M’gipsu about staying at Redcliffe as -seamstress, and she is delighted at the opportunity. When Ikwa heard of -this arrangement he rushed in and wanted to know why he was “no good” -for Peary, and why Mané could not do the sewing, and said that if Peary -preferred Annowkah and M’gipsu he would pull down his igloo and take his -family back to Keati. It was some little time before we could quiet him -and make him understand that we needed more than one woman to sew all of -the clothing. - -The last three days have been particularly busy ones for me, as Matt has -been sick in bed with something like the grippe, and I have had the -cooking to do in addition to the sewing. The poor fellow has had an -uncomfortable time, but the doctor says he will be all right in a day or -two. - -Our house looks like a huge snow-drift from a little distance, so -completely is it covered with snow. The whole village presents the -appearance of a series of snow-mounds of various sizes. We have five -snow-igloos inhabited by the natives, besides a storehouse, an -experimental snow-house, and some dog-houses, all built of blocks of -snow. Just at present we are getting quite a little amusement out of two -young natives from Cape York, who express the same surprise at us and -our mode of living as the country boy does the first time he comes to a -city. They are dressed in new suits throughout,—kamiks, bearskin -nanookies, foxskin kapetahs, and birdskin shirts,—and so the boys have -nicknamed them the “Cape York dudes.” The younger one, Keshu, is a -stepbrother of Klayuh, and he has brought her the sad tidings that their -father is very sick and will probably never get well again. I should not -be surprised if she would return to Cape York with them. - -Monday, December 21. The dark night is just half over; to-day is the -shortest day. So far the time has not seemed very long, but I am afraid -before we have had many more dark days we shall all think it long -enough. I have done nothing as yet toward celebrating Christmas, but I -want to make some little thing for Mr. Peary. As far as the boys are -concerned, I think an exceptionally good dinner will please them more -than anything else I could give them. M’gipsu has made a pair of -deerskin trousers for one of the boys, and has also completed a deerskin -coat. She is now at work on a deerskin sleeping-bag, which is to be -fastened about the neck of the occupant, over a fur hood with a shoulder -cape, which I am endeavoring to fashion. - -She is sitting on the floor in my room (an unusual honor), and her -husband, Annowkah, comes in as often as he can find an excuse for doing -so. He frequently rubs his face against hers, and they sniffle at each -other; this takes the place of kissing. I should think they could smell -each other without doing this, but they are probably so accustomed to -the (to me) terrible odor that they fail to notice it. - -I dislike very much to have the natives in my room, on account of their -dirty condition, and especially as they are alive with parasites, of -which I am in deadly fear, much to the amusement of our party. But it is -impossible for the women to sew in the other room, where the boys are at -work on their sledges and ski, so I allow two at a time to come into my -room, taking good care that they do not get near the bed. At the end of -their day’s work, I take my little broom, which is an ordinary whisk -lashed to a hoe-handle, and sweep the room carefully. The boys have made -brooms out of the wings of ducks and gulls, which are very satisfactory, -there being only the bare floor to sweep; but I have a carpet on my -floor, and the feather brooms make no impression on it, so I am -compelled to use my little whisk. It answers the purpose admirably, but -it takes me twice as long as it would otherwise have done. After the -room has been thoroughly swept, I sprinkle it with a solution of -corrosive sublimate, given to me by the doctor, and in this way manage -to keep entirely free from the pests. Both Mr. Peary and myself rub down -with alcohol every night before retiring as a further protection against -these horrible “koomakshuey,” and we are amply repaid for our trouble. -Matt has entirely recovered from his sick spell, and has again taken -charge of the cooking. - -I was right in my surmise about the widow; she accompanied the “dudes” -to Cape York, taking her three children with her. Kyo also left at the -same time for his home at Omanooy. He says he will return in ten days -with a load of deerskins which he has at his igloo. Mr. Peary loaned him -two of his dogs, and has promised him ammunition in exchange for the -deerskins. We are anxious to see what kind of a gun he has; he says he -got it from an old man who had received it from a white man long ago. - -We have had a great house-cleaning in honor of the approaching holidays. -I have replaced the cretonne curtains at the bottom of my bed, -wash-stand, bookcase, and trunk, with new ones, and have put fresh -muslin curtains at my windows. The boys have cleaned the large room, -taking all superfluous lumber and tools out, and have even scrubbed the -floor. The natives think we are crazy to waste so much water. Poor -things, they think water was made only for drinking purposes. - -Saturday, December 26. Just after I made the last entry in my journal, -one of the boys reported that the tide-gage wire was broken. Mr. Peary, -Verhoeff, and Gibson went out to put it in commission. After about an -hour Verhoeff rushed into the house calling, “Doctor, Doctor, come out -to the tide-gage as quick as you can!” The doctor, whose turn it was to -be night watchman, and who was therefore asleep at this hour, tumbled -out of his bunk and into his clothes, and made a rush for the tide-gage. -I was lying in my bed suffering from the effects of a sick-headache; but -never having fully recovered from the shock caused by Mr. Peary’s -accident in Melville Bay, and realizing that he was not yet quite sure -of his injured limb, the thought flashed across my mind that something -had happened to him. No sooner did this idea occur to me than it became -a settled fact, and in less time than it takes to tell I had thrown on -my wrapper and kamiks, caught up a steamer-rug to throw about me, and -was on my way down to the tide-gage. As I ran down the beaten path, I -could see the light of the little bull’s-eye lantern flashing to and fro -in the distance. It was as dark as any starlight night at home, although -it was early in the evening, and not any darker now than it had been at -noon. I could hear the low buzz of conversation without being able to -distinguish any voices, and the figures seemed all huddled together. My -whole attention was absorbed by this little group, and I did not -properly watch my path; consequently I stumbled, then slipped and lost -my footing, falling astride a sharp ridge of ice on the ice-foot. For an -instant I could not tell where I was hurt the most, and then I -discovered that I could move neither limb, the muscles refusing to do my -bidding. I next tried to call Mr. Peary, whose voice I could now -distinctly hear, but I could utter no sound. Then I lost consciousness. -The next thing I knew, I was lying on the same spot in the same -position. The little group, not more than sixty yards away, were -laughing and talking; but I was unable to raise my voice above a hoarse -whisper, and could in no way attract their attention, so interested were -they in their work of raising the tide-gage anchor. I was clothed in -such a way that lying out on the ice with the temperature eighteen -degrees below zero was anything but comfortable. I found that by great -exertion I could move myself, and by doing this a little at a time, I -gradually got on my hands and knees and crawled back to the house. As -the whole distance was up-hill and every movement painful, I was obliged -to make frequent stops to rest. At last I reached my room and had just -strength enough left to drag myself upon the bed. I noticed by the clock -that I had been absent thirty-five minutes. On examination it was found -that I was cut and bruised all over, but the doctor declared that I was -not seriously hurt; but even now I have not entirely recovered from the -effects of the fall. - -The day before yesterday was spent in decorating the interior of our -Arctic home for the Christmas and New-Year festivities. In the large -room the ceiling was draped with red mosquito-netting furnished by Mr. -Gibson. Dr. Cook and Astrup devised wire candelabra and wire -candle-holders, which were placed in all the corners and along the -walls. Two large silk United States flags were crossed at one end of the -room, and a silk sledge-flag given to Mr. Peary by a friend in -Washington was put up on the opposite wall. I gave the boys new cretonne -for curtains for their bunks. In my room I replaced the portières, made -of silk flags, with which the boys had decorated their room, by -portières made of canopy lace, and decorated the photographs of our dear -ones at home, which were grouped on the wall beside the bed, with red, -white, and blue ribbons. This occupied us all the greater part of the -day. About nine o’clock in the evening Mr. Peary made a goodly supply of -milk-punch, which was placed upon the table, together with cakes, -cookies, candies, nuts, and raisins. He gave each of the boys a book as -a Christmas gift. We spent the evening in playing games and chatting, -and at midnight Mr. Peary and I retired to our room to open some -letters, boxes, and parcels given to us by kind friends, and marked, “To -be opened Christmas eve at midnight.” I think our feeling of pleasure at -the many and thoughtful remembrances was clouded by the feeling of -intense homesickness which involuntarily came with it. It was the first -Christmas in my life spent away from home, and for the first time since -the little “Kite” steamed out of Brooklyn I felt how very far away we -are from those we love and who love us. I shall never forget the -thoughtful kindness of Mrs. Beyer, wife of the governor of Upernavik, to -a perfect stranger. Although she is obliged to get all her supplies from -Denmark, and then order them a year in advance, out of her slender stock -she had filled a large box with conserves, preserves, bonbons, -spice-cakes, tissue-paper knickknacks for decorating the table, and very -pretty cards wishing us a merry Christmas. Mr. Peary had carved for me -two beautiful hairpins, and I made a guidon out of a silk handkerchief -and a piece of one of my dresses, to be carried by him on his long -journey over the ice-cap to the northern terminus of Greenland. - -Yesterday—Christmas morning—we had a late breakfast, and it was very -near noon before all the inmates of Redcliffe were astir. I had decided -to have an early dinner, and then to invite all our faithful natives to -a dinner cooked by us and served at our table with our dishes. I thought -it would be as much fun for us to see them eat with knife, fork, and -spoon as it would be for them to do it. - -While I was preparing the dinner, most of the boys went out for a walk, -“to get a good appetite,” they said. After the table was set, Astrup -placed a very pretty and cleverly designed menu-card at each plate. Each -card was especially appropriate to the one for whom it was intended. - -At 4.30 P. M. we all sat down to our “Merry Christmas.” The dinner -consisted of - - Salmon _à la_ can. - Rabbit-pie with green peas. - Venison with cranberry sauce. - Corn and tomatoes. - Plum-pudding with brandy sauce. - Apricot pie. - Pears. - Candy, nuts, raisins. - Coffee. - -[Illustration: - - Christmas Dinner to the Natives. -] - -We arose from the table at half-past seven, all voting this to have been -the jolliest Christmas dinner ever eaten in the Arctic regions. After -Matt had cleared everything away, the table was set again, and the -Eskimos were called in. Ikwa and his family sent regrets, as they had -just returned from a visit to Keati, and were too tired to put on “full -dress” for a dinner-party. We therefore had only two of our -seamstresses, M’gipsu and Inaloo, with us; in place of Ikwa and his wife -we invited two visitors, Kudlah and Myah. We had nicknames for all the -natives. Ahngodegipsah we called the “Villain” on account of the -similarity of his expression, when he laughed, to that of the villain on -the stage. His wife, Inaloo, talked so incessantly that she at once -received from the boys the nickname of the “Tiresome.” M’gipsu was -called the “Daisy” because she could do anything she was asked to do. -Her husband, Annowkah, we knew as the “Young Husband”; Kudlah was called -“Misfortune”; and Myah was known as the “White Man.” The “Villain” was -put at the head of the table and told that he must serve the company -just as he had seen Mr. Peary serve us. The “Daisy” took my place at the -foot of the table, her duty being to pour the tea. The “Young Husband” -and “Misfortune” sat on one side, while “Tiresome” and the “White Man” -sat opposite. Their bill of fare was as follows: - - Milk-punch. - Venison-stew, corn-bread. - Biscuit, coffee. - Candy, raisins. - -It was amusing to see the queer-looking creatures, dressed entirely in -the skins of animals, seated at the table and trying to act like -civilized people. Both the “Villain” and the “Daisy” did their parts -well. One incident was especially funny. Myah, seeing a nice-looking -piece of meat in the stew, reached across the table, and with his fork -endeavored to pick it out of the dish. He was immediately reproved by -the “Villain,” who made him pass his mess-pan to him and then helped him -to what he thought he ought to have, reserving, however, the choice -piece for himself. They chattered and laughed, and seemed to enjoy -themselves very much. Both women had their babies in their hoods on -their backs, but this did not hinder them in the least. Although at -times the noise was great, the little ones slept through it all. - -M’gipsu watched the cups of the others, and as soon as she spied an -empty one she would say: “Etudoo cafee? Nahme? Cafee peeuk.” (More -coffee? No? The coffee is good.) Finally at ten o’clock the big lamp was -put out, and we told them it was time to go to sleep, and that they must -go home, which they reluctantly did. - -To-day has been a rather lazy day for us all, and now at 11 P. M. Mr. -Peary, Dr. Cook, and Matt have just come in from a visit to the -fox-traps about two miles distant. On the return they indulged in a -foot-race, and when they came in they looked as if they had been dipped -in water. The perspiration ran in streamlets down their faces. This trip -has encouraged Mr. Peary very much in the belief that by next spring his -leg will be just as good as it ever was. - -Saturday, January 2, 1892. I have been lazy about writing up my notes -lately, but now I shall turn over a new leaf. 1891 has gone; what will -1892 bring? I don’t think I want to know. Better take it as it comes, -and hope for the best. The “Villain” and his wife have gone to their -home in Netchiolumy, Myah and Kudlah also have left us, and, with the -exception of Keshu (alias the “Smiler”) and his wife, all of our Eskimo -visitors have departed; Ikwa and family and Annowkah and family remain, -but they are not considered company at Redcliffe. - -The sun is surely coming back to us, for at noon now we have a -perceptible twilight, and the cliffs opposite Redcliffe can be plainly -seen. Since December 29 the weather has been very disagreeable, and we -have considerable new snow. The whole week has been a semi-holiday. -Almost every day I have been out for a snow-shoe tramp, and I have -rather enjoyed it in spite of the wind, which is just high enough to be -disagreeable. - -On the 30th I issued cards of invitation for an “At home in the south -parlor of Redcliffe, December 31, from 10 P. M. 1891 to 1892.” The day -was a thoroughly Arctic one, and I was glad that my guests would not -have far to come. All day I was busy preparing for company. I had to -manufacture my own ice-cream without a freezer, bake my own cake and -crullers, and set everything out on an improvised sideboard. At 9 P. M. -I dressed myself in a black silk tea-gown with canary silk front, -covered and trimmed with black lace, cut square in the neck and filled -in with lace, and having lace sleeves. At ten my guests began to arrive. -The invitations were limited to the members of the North Greenland -Expedition of ’91 and ’92, and they all looked especially nice and very -much civilized, most of them actually sending in their cards. They were -all dressed in “store clothes,” although one or two clung to their -kamiks. I had no chairs, so each guest was requested to bring his own. -Mr. Peary sat on the bed, while I occupied the trunk. I spent a very -delightful evening, and I think the boys enjoyed the chocolate ice-cream -and cake. At midnight we all drank “A Happy New Year” in our Redcliffe -cocktail, and then my guests departed. All this time the wind was -howling and moaning, and the snow was flying, while the night was black -as ink, not a star being visible. More than once during the evening, -when a particularly heavy gust swept down from the cliffs and fell -against our little house with a shriek, the contrast between inside and -outside was forced upon us. - -The next day we had a late breakfast, and then two of the boys went out -to lay off a course for the athletic games which they had been -discussing for some time. The weather was so bad that I did not go out -to witness them, but let Matt go, and prepared our New-Year’s dinner -alone. This time Mr. Peary decided that he would give the natives the -materials for their own New-Year’s dinner and let them prepare it -themselves. They were given eider-ducks, reindeer legs, coffee, and -biscuit. We have quite a batch of new Eskimos, among them two men from -Cape York, who are almost as tall as Mr. Peary, and whom we call the -“giants.” They have quite a number of narwhal tusks to trade, and are -determined to have a rifle for them, but I hardly think they will get -it. - - - - - CHAPTER IX - THE NEW YEAR - - The New Year Ushered in with a Fierce Storm—Return of the Noon - Twilight—We fail to feel the Intense Cold—Native Seamstresses and - their Babies—Some Drawbacks to Arctic Housekeeping—Peculiar Customs - of the Natives—Close of the Winter Night. - - -Saturday, January 9. The storm which began December 29 has continued -until this morning. Now it looks as though it might clear off. The new -snow is about twenty-four inches deep on a level, and there are drifts -as high as I am. - -Fortunately we had a good ice supply on hand, and no native visitors, -for they drink twice as much water as we use for cooking, drinking, and -toilet purposes combined. The boys have been busy on their individual -ski and sledges; Mr. Peary has been fitting and cutting fur clothing and -sleeping-bags; and the “Daisy” has been sewing as hard as she can. The -wind is still blowing in squalls, and of course the snow is still -drifting, but the moon came out for a little while to-day, and we think -and hope the storm is over. - -Monday, January 11. At last clear and cold, and the twilight is very -pronounced in the middle of the day. Everybody is still busy sewing or -carpentering. Each one of the party is desirous of having his ski -lighter and stronger than those of the others, except Verhoeff, whose -whole interest is divided between the thermometer and the tide-gage. The -words of the physicians on board the “Kite” six months ago have come -true—Mr. Peary’s leg is practically as sound as it ever was. - -[Illustration: - - In my Kooletah. -] - -Saturday, January 16. During the last week we have had beautiful -weather—calm, clear, and cold. Every day we have a more decided light, -and I take advantage of it by indulging in long snow-shoe tramps. I can -walk for hours without tiring if a single snow-shoer has gone before me; -but if I attempt to break the path alone I soon get exhausted. I have -been busy making foot-wraps out of blanketing, and have also made myself -some articles of clothing out of the same material. We find that mittens -made out of blanketing and worn inside the fur mittens absorb the -moisture and add to the warmth and comfortable feeling. - -My room has looked more like a gun-shop than anything else for the last -few days; Mr. Peary has been putting a new spring in his shot-gun and -overhauling an old rifle. - -Sunday, January 17. To-day at 2 P. M. Mr. Peary and I went out for our -tramp. The temperature was –45°, and the only chance to walk was along -the pathway made through the twenty-inch depth of snow three quarters of -the way to the iceberg. It is astonishing how little I feel these low -temperatures: Mr. Peary, however, always sees that I am properly -protected. In many of the little details I should be negligent, and -would probably suffer in consequence, but I have to undergo an -inspection before he will let me go out. - -The daylight was bright enough to-day to enable us to read ordinary -print, and we feel that ere long we shall have the sun with us again for -at least a portion of the twenty-four hours. We stayed out only half an -hour, but my dress for about two feet from the bottom was frozen stiff -as a board, my kamiks were frozen to the stockings, and the stockings to -the Arctic socks next my feet; yet I have felt much colder at home when -the temperature was only a little below the freezing-point. - -The remainder of the day we spent in marking, clipping, and sorting -newspaper cuttings. This occupation we found so interesting that we -prolonged it until after midnight. - -Monday, January 18. The day has been bright and calm. Mr. Peary, with -Dr. Cook and Astrup, took his first snow-shoe tramp of the season, and -went nearly to the berg. This is the first time the broken leg has been -given such vigorous exercise, but it stood the strain remarkably well. I -have been busy on the sleeping-bag cover all day. I find it very -inconvenient, not to say disagreeable, sewing in a temperature of 44°; -but as I am dependent on the stoves in the other room for my heat, it -cannot be helped. Verhoeff has a mania for saving coal, and keeps -everybody half frozen. He kept the fire to-day on six tomato-cans of -coal. Water spilled near the stove froze almost instantly. - -Tuesday, January 19. Somewhat cloudy to-day, but after lunch Mr. Peary -and I went out to the berg on snow-shoes. I did not get a single tumble, -and Mr. Peary said I managed my snow-shoes very well. I was as warm as -any one could wish to be, although the thermometer registered 44° below -zero. We took our time, not hurrying at all, and so prevented -perspiration, which always makes one uncomfortable in these low -temperatures. I had no shoes or kamiks on, only the deerskin stockings, -and a pair of long knit woolen ones over them, yet my feet were warmer -than ever before on these outdoor tramps. - -Thursday, January 21. A clear and perceptibly lighter day than -yesterday; indeed, it seems as if it grew lighter now, a month after the -shortest day, much more rapidly than it grew darker a month before the -shortest day. Mr. Peary, the doctor, and Astrup started a path with -their snow-shoes toward Cape Cleveland, and made about half the -distance. The doctor and Astrup took our sledge, the “Sweetheart,” to -the iceberg, intending to bring in a load of ice, but as they reached -the berg they heard the howling of dogs ahead of them and saw a dark -object on the snow some distance away. They started for it, and found a -party of huskies plowing their way through the snow. The party consisted -of Keshu, his wife and child of three years, his brother, Ahninghahna, -older than he, and Magda, a boy of twelve. They were on their way to -Redcliffe. They had been staying with Keshu’s father, Arrotochsuah, but -as the food was giving out over there, and as the old people were not -able to travel, they thought it desirable to look elsewhere. They all -have frost-bites except the little child, and were very grateful for the -assistance given them by the doctor and Astrup in getting to the house. -They tell us that they have been on the way for five days and nights, -the distance being about fifteen miles. To-night the woman was -photographed, and her portrait added to our ethnological series. - -[Illustration: - - AMPHITHEATRE BERG—MCCORMICK BAY. -] - -Friday, January 22. Another clear, cold day; the temperature, –39°. The -addition of the new Eskimos makes the settlement much more lively. In -the house I wear a knit kidney-protector, a Jaros combination suit, two -knit skirts, a flannel wrapper, and a pair of knit stockings, together -with a pair of deerskin ones in place of kamiks. When going out I only -add my snow-shoes, my kooletah (great fur overall), and muff. In this -rig I can stay out and walk for hours, and feel more comfortable than I -have felt while shopping in Philadelphia or New-York on a winter’s day. -This evening Mané No. 2 (wife of Keshu) and M’gipsu have been at work in -my room, both sitting flat on the floor, the former cutting and fitting -two pairs of kamiks for us from a skin brought here by herself, for -which she will receive a clasp-knife. The bargain pleases her greatly. -These women are both good sewers, and it would interest some of our -ladies to watch them at their work. They, as well as all the other -native women, usually take off their kamiks and stockings while in the -house, so that almost the entire leg is bare, their trousers being mere -trunks. They sit flat on the floor, using their feet and legs to hold -the work, and their mouths to make it pliable; the thimble is worn on -the forefinger, and they sew from right to left. The thread is made as -they need it by splitting the deer or narwhal sinews and moistening them -in the mouth. While at this work the babies are being continually rocked -or shifted on their backs without the aid of the hands. The children are -carried in the hood constantly, whether awake or asleep, for the first -year, and only taken out when fed. They are tiny, ugly creatures, and -until they are able to walk never wear anything but a sealskin cap which -fits close about the face, where it is edged with fox, and a foxskin -jacket reaching to the waist. - -Saturday, January 23. I cleaned “house,” which means our little room, -seven by twelve. This in itself would be no task, but we have no brooms, -and every inch of my floor is swept with a whisk-broom and on my knees. -As I have only one whisk, and that a silver-handled one, I can afford to -sweep thoroughly only once a week. I have put an old blanket down which -covers the carpet in the middle of the room, where all the walking and -working is done. This blanket is shaken every day and the room brushed -up, giving us a fairly clean apartment. I also finished the sleeping-bag -cover. Now at midnight the temperature is –30½°, and the doctor and -Astrup have taken their sleeping-bags out under the boat as an -experiment in sleeping in the open air. - -Monday, January 25. A clear, calm day, with the very bright daylight -tipping all the bergs and crests of the cliffs with silver. The -temperature is –29°, and the landscape is a cold-looking one, but its -aspect does not chill us. It is certainly novel to feel so decidedly hot -in a temperature of –30°, while my handkerchief freezes stiff before I -get through using it. I have been busy cutting and sewing a flannel -lining for my reindeer knickerbockers, for which I utilized my old gray -eider-down wrapper. I also made out a schedule or bill of fare for the -week, arranging the _menu_ for each day, so as to get the greatest -benefit from the patent-fuel stove and save as much oil as possible. - -[Illustration: - - A Winter Recreation.—My Cross-matched Team. -] - -Thursday, January 28. About five o’clock I was called out to see the -brightest aurora we had yet seen. It extended over us almost due east -and west.[4] This night we succeeded in obtaining an observation of -Arcturus. - -Footnote 4: - - This was the only aurora observed by us during our entire stay in the - Arctic regions which was bright enough to cast a shadow. - -Friday, January 29. To-day we went out to the “amphitheater berg,” -breaking a new path part of the distance—warm as well as hard work. This -evening, for the first time in our house, one of the women (Mané) -stripped herself to the waist; there she sat sewing away, in the midst -of a crowd of huskies as well as our boys, just as unconcerned as if she -were clad in the finest raiment. The men do this frequently when it gets -too warm for them, but I never saw a woman do it before. It is true they -are nearly always entirely nude in their igloos, and visiting Eskimos, -as soon as they enter an igloo, take off every stitch, just as we lay -aside our wraps and overcoats at home. This is done by both sexes. - -Sunday, January 31. Another month has slipped away, and I can say, “One -month nearer home.” I must admit I am very homesick at times. Hardly a -night passes that I do not dream of some of my home folks. The bill of -fare which I made out for last week, giving the times for cooking each -dish on the patent-fuel stove, worked very well, and I can save about -one quart of oil a day; this will be of considerable help to us in case -we shall be obliged to go to south Greenland in our boats. I walked down -to the two first fox-traps, but found them completely snowed under. In -places the snow-crust is hard enough to bear the weight of the body, but -oftener one sinks in six or eight inches, and in places the surface snow -has drifted considerably deeper. The temperature is about –20°, and it -has been thick and dark all day. Yesterday Verhoeff went upon the cliffs -and found the minimum thermometer registering only –24° as the lowest -for the month, while at Redcliffe we have had it down to –53°. Strange -that on the hill-tops it should be so much warmer than here below. - -Tuesday, February 2. A beautiful, clear, cold day; temperature, –35°. We -now have daylight from ten A. M. until three P. M., while there is a -decided twilight from nine to ten and from three to four. We were -inspected in daylight by the doctor, and we all show the effects of the -long dark night; Mr. Peary and Astrup, being the two fairest ones in the -party, look the most sallow. We walked out to the amphitheater berg -without snow-shoes. The left-hand column at the entrance to the theater -is a massive pillar of ice, like the whitest marble, about a hundred -feet high; inside the berg the snow was very deep. The right-hand side -of the entrance had recently broken, and tons of the splintered ice were -lying around. We saw the new moon one quarter full for the first time -over the cliffs to the north, while the glow from the setting sun to the -southwest made a most beautiful picture; the tops of the bergs in the -distance were completely hidden in the low line of mist rising from the -cracks in the ice, which gave them the appearance of long flat rocks in -the midst of the snow-plain. - -Friday, February 5. This morning all our Eskimo visitors left us, and -things are once more running in the old groove. I have not been out for -several days in consequence of a sore toe. I have finished blanket -sleeves for all the sleeping-bags, and yesterday boiled my first -pudding. To-night about eight o’clock noises were heard out on the ice, -and in a little while Arrotochsuah and his wife arrived, with one large -dog and one puppy. They were very much fatigued, having been five days -and four nights on their way over. These old people seem very fond of -each other, and share whatever they get. Their food-supply having given -out, they are on their way to their son’s igloo at Netchiolumy, -forty-five miles distant, whither they intend to travel on foot, part of -the way through snow two feet deep. The woman, seemingly sixty years of -age, says they tumble into the snow every few steps, but up they get and -stagger on, and in this way they make the trip with packs on their -backs. - -Thursday, February 11. Just seven months ago to-day Mr. Peary broke his -leg, and he celebrated the event by taking a ten-mile tramp on the bay -ice. His leg did not trouble him at all, and did not swell very much. -To-day we have been married three years and a half. It seems as if I had -been away from home as long as that, and yet it was only eight months on -the 6th of February since I left Washington. - -Saturday, February 13. We are making preparations to witness the return -of the sun. Gibson and Verhoeff have erected a snow-house on the -ice-cap, and Mr. Peary has invited us all to accompany him to-morrow to -the summit, and welcome the reappearing luminary. My head has been -aching very badly all day, and I do not feel in condition to spend the -night in a snow-hut, so I shall stay at home and keep house. It will be -pleasant to exchange the strange daylights we have been having for -weeks—daylights without a sun—for the vivifying glow of direct sunlight. - - - - - CHAPTER X - SUNSHINE AND STORM - - Return of the Sun—Furious Storm and Inundation at Redcliffe—Repairing - the Damage—Verhoeff’s Birthday—Fears for Dr. Cook and Astrup—Rescue - of Jack—Battling with an Arctic Hurricane—Down with the - Grippe—Dazzling March Scenery—The Commander has the Grippe—Astrup - and Gibson reconnoiter after Dogs—The Widow returns a Bride—The Snow - begins to Melt—Sunning Babies on the Roof. - - -Sunday, February 14. At home this is St. Valentine’s day. Here it is -simply Sunday, and for me a lonely one. This morning Mr. Peary, Astrup, -and Dr. Cook started for the mountain-top with their sleeping gear and -provisions for two days. The day has been misty, cloudy, and rough. At -six A. M. the temperature was 11½°, and at eight it was 33°, with the -wind blowing a gale that shook the doors and windows of our little home -for the first time since it was really finished. At eight in the evening -the mercury had fallen one degree, and the wind was blowing in gusts, -but with greater force than before. I am worried about our travelers. -Gibson just brought in a piece of ice perfectly wet and covered with wet -snow, which shows the effect of the high temperature. He says he can -hardly stand up against the wind, but that it is warm, almost balmy. -Jack came to the door and whined piteously to be let in, something I -have never known him to do before. Now at 10.45 it is raining hard. - -Monday, February 15. What a wretched twenty-four hours the past have -been! All night the wind blew in violent gusts, sometimes accompanied by -wet snow and sometimes by rain. This morning the whole place appears in -a dilapidated condition. A thaw has set in, and the water is running in -every direction. The inmates of the snow-igloo were forced to leave it, -and to-night one could read through its walls, the action of the wind, -water, and temperature has worn them so thin. Part of our snow-wall has -fallen, or rather melted down, and the water is pouring down the sides -of the house into the canvas-covered passages, soaking everything. The -thermometer reads 38°, and the wind still blows, while it continues to -rain and snow. With Matt’s assistance I have moved everything out of the -lean-to back of the house, and have had all the cutlery brought in, some -of which was already covered with rust. At two o’clock the water began -to come in under my back door, and then Gibson, who has the night watch, -and therefore the right to sleep during the day, got up, and with Matt -went on the roof and shoveled the snow off to prevent the water from -leaking into the house. It was all they could do to keep from being -blown down, and in ten minutes both were drenched to the skin. If our -little party on the ice have this wind and rain, I do not see what they -can do. Their snow-hut will melt over them, and they will be wet and -cold, while in such a wind it will be impossible to venture down the -cliffs. To-night the temperature has fallen to 33°, but otherwise things -are unchanged. At two P. M. the maximum thermometer registered 41½°. -This temperature will hardly be equaled at this time in New England. - -[Illustration: - - An Arctic Tot. -] - -Tuesday, February 16. A glorious day follows thirty-six hours of violent -storm. The sun shines on Cape Robertson and on the snow-covered cliffs -east of Redcliffe House. I walked down to Cape Cleveland with Jack, my -faithful attendant. The sun had just gone behind the black cliffs of -Herbert Island, and the glare was still so bright that it hurt my eyes -to look at it. I never appreciated the sunlight so much before; -involuntarily it made me feel nearer home. The sky was beautifully -tinted—pink and blue in the east, light orange in the south, a deep -yellow and crimson in the northwest. Fleecy clouds tinged with rose -floated overhead, while the air was calm and balmy. How thoroughly I -should have enjoyed my walk amid the exquisitely colored surroundings -had I known how it fared with my husband on the ice above! Reaching the -house at 1.45, I found no tidings of the party, and so watched and -waited, until at last a lone figure rounded the mile point. Although I -could not see anything beyond a dark spot on the ice moving toward the -house, I knew it must be Mr. Peary, for, in spite of his long-forced -inactivity and his broken leg, he still outwalks the boys. I started out -with Jack, and we soon met. The party were all right, but had had a -pretty hard time of it. - -[Illustration: - - MY FAITHFUL COMPANIONS, “JACK” AND “FRANK.” -] - -Thursday, February 18. A bright, sunny day. We have been busy rebuilding -the snow entrance which was washed away by the recent thaw and rain. -This completed, Mr. Peary got out his “ski” and began coasting down the -hill back of the house. Astrup and the doctor joined in the sport, and -even the huskies got their sleds and coasted on them. I spent the time -in taking photographs of the boys, especially in their grotesque -tumbles. - -Friday, February 19. Another cloudy day; it seems as if the sun had not -yet become accustomed to his new route and forgets us every other day. -The old couple started for Netchiolumy this morning, and Ikwa went off -with his sledge and our mikkies to bait fox-traps. After lunch Astrup -and the doctor went on the cliffs to build three cairns from Cape -Cleveland to Three-Mile Valley, expecting to get back by supper-time. At -six o’clock they had not returned, but we were not alarmed, and put -their supper away for them. About seven Ikwa came in, and reported that -while passing Cape Cleveland he had heard the rumbling of a snow-slide -down the steep sides of the cliffs, but it was too dark for him to see -anything. At 9.15 the old couple returned, saying the snow was too deep -for them to travel, and they are therefore going to stay here for a -while. The truth is, they like it here, and think they had better let -well enough alone. They said that in passing Cape Cleveland they heard -Jack bark and Dr. Cook halloo to them. This, together with Ikwa’s story -of the snow-slide and the non-appearance of the boys, made us think that -something might have happened to them, so Mr. Peary and Gibson started -for the Cape at once (about ten P. M.). When they reached it they heard -Jack whining, crying, and barking by turns, and on going around the Cape -they found quantities of loose snow evidently lately brought down from -the cliffs, and in the middle of this heap a snow-shoe! Mr. Peary called -and called, but the only answer received was Jack’s cry, nor would the -animal come down. Mr. Peary at once started back to Redcliffe on almost -a run—Gibson had all he could do to keep up with him—intending to -procure ropes, sledges, sleeping-bags, alpenstocks, lanterns, etc., and -to call out all the men in the settlement in order to begin at once a -close search of the almost vertical cliffs, covered with ice and snow, -where Jack was, and where he supposed the boys might also be, perhaps -badly bruised and mangled, or overcome by the cold. In the meantime, to -our great relief, both boys appeared at Redcliffe, exhausted and hungry. -They said they had reached Cape Cleveland about 1.30 P. M. and started -up the cliff; it was very steep and seemed unsafe for about one third of -the way, but after that it appeared to be easy climbing. When, however, -they had ascended three hundred feet, progress became increasingly -difficult, the course being over round stones covered with ice, where it -was impossible to cut steps. On looking down they found, to their -horror, that it would be impossible to return, the cliff being too steep -and slippery. Here Astrup dropped a snow-shoe—Ikwa’s snow-slide—which he -had been using to punch steps in the snow and to scrape places among the -icy stones for a foothold. This left them only the one which the doctor -was using. Further progress was very slow; they knew that their steps -had to be firm, for one misstep would send them to their doom. To add to -their difficulty it began to grow dark, about four P. M., when they were -not more than half-way up; poor Jack was unable to follow them any -longer up the steep, icy wall, and, likewise unable to go down, he began -to howl and cry piteously at being left. The howl of a dog under the -most favorable circumstances is horrible. To the boys it sounded like -their death-knell. They heard the old people pass along the bay, and -called to them. Finally they reached the top, and then ran along to Mile -Valley above the house and came down it to the bay, in this way missing -Mr. Peary. - -Sunday, February 21. Yesterday we made an unsuccessful effort to rescue -Jack, and this morning the attempt was resumed by Mr. Peary and Dr. -Cook. I was to meet them at noon with lunch. About ten o’clock the boys -reported a wind-storm down at Cape Cleveland; the snow was driving off -the cliffs in thick clouds, and the whole sky became black. The storm, -however, did not strike Redcliffe, but passed to the east, and we could -see it at work at the head of the bay. Believing it to be over at the -Cape, I started on snow-shoes, with shot-gun on my shoulder, and with a -gripsack containing tea, boiler, cups, spoons, alcohol-stove and -alcohol, potted turkey and biscuits, and sugar and milk. On turning the -first point the wind struck me, but, thinking it was only a squall left -by the recent storm, I hastened on as best I could. Finally I left the -path and went inshore, but could not see where I stepped, and was blown -down several times. I relieved myself of the snow-shoes and gun, but was -again knocked about by the wind, and had my breath completely taken away -by the snow driving in my face. I finally met Mr. Peary with our good -dog Jack, and we reached home late in the afternoon, tired and sore. - -Monday, February 22. Washington’s birthday; grandmother’s birthday. Our -dinner consisted of venison pie with corn, broiled guillemot breasts and -green peas, chocolate, and apple pandowdy. The day has been cloudy and -misty. - -Sunday, March 6. I am recovering from an attack of the grippe. Tuesday, -February 23, after going to bed I had a chill, and all night my back and -every bone in my body ached. In the morning my aches increased and I was -in a fever. Of course Mr. Peary called in the doctor, and between them -they have brought me round. I went out for the first time yesterday, Mr. -Peary pushing me on the sledge to the tide-gage, where the sun was -shining beautifully. - -Tuesday, March 8. Yesterday was a bright, cold day. Matt returned from a -four days’ deer hunt at the head of the bay, during which he experienced -a temperature of from –40° to –50°. Gibson has had everything he -possesses put in order for a hunt with Annowkah, in Five-Glacier Valley. -He took two reindeer sleeping-bags, his full deerskin suit, a sealskin -suit, heavy woolen shirts, stockings _ad libitum_, a heavy pair of -blankets, a tarpaulin, and sundry small articles, besides an Eskimo lamp -and blubber, which he proposes to keep burning in the igloo all the -time. - -Tuesday, March 22. The last two weeks have been entirely uneventful, our -time having been largely occupied in preparations for various -hunting-trips and the great inland journey—the fashioning of -experimental clothing, making of sledges, etc. The temperature has been -steadily rising, but we have had some sharp reminders of an Arctic -winter’s force; on the 14th, when the sun shone for the first time on -the window of our room, the mercury was still –35°. The landscape is now -resplendent in its glory, but the beauties of the snow-plain are here -wasted on the desert air. Day before yesterday Mr. Peary made a -reconnoissance of the ice-cap, traveling about twenty-two miles, and -reaching an elevation of 3800 feet; his minimum temperature was –32° as -against –25° at Redcliffe. To-morrow he intends to start for -Netchiolumy. - -Sunday, April 3. The past week has been a long and anxious one for me. -Mr. Peary’s indisposition last Sunday turned out to be an attack of the -grippe, and for two days he was very sick, his fever running up to -103.8. It was accompanied with vomiting, coughing, and violent headache. -Tuesday night his temperature went down to normal, and he felt better -but weak, and this weakness he fought against with the unreasonableness -of a child. Wednesday he said he would start for Netchiolumy, in spite -of my protestations, telling me I was childish to suppose he did not -know what was best for him; and not until the doctor told him that there -was danger of pneumonia, and that he must take the responsibility if he -persisted in going, did he reluctantly yield. Thursday night his -temperature began to rise again in consequence of over-exertion. Friday -he still fought against lying down and keeping quiet, and Saturday and -Sunday he had a relapse, his fever reaching 102.2, and leaving him -weaker than before. I have done nothing but watch over him, and it has -kept me busy day and night. - -[Illustration: - - One of our Visitors. -] - -The weather during the week has been beautiful, and the sunshine is -appreciated by us more and more every day. - -Yesterday, late in the evening, two men were seen coming toward the -house from the direction of Cape Cleveland. They proved to be Kyo and -Keshu, the Cape York dudes. They said quite a number of people were in a -deserted igloo on Herbert Island and would be along by and by. It seems -our former visitor, the widow Klayuh, whose husband was drowned while -harpooning an oogzook seal last fall, and who stopped here with her -three children on her way to Cape York to see her dying father, has -consoled herself by becoming Kyo’s wife, and she is among those who are -to come. This morning both Eskimos started off to bring their friends, -together with their sledges and dogs, over to Redcliffe. As Mr. Peary is -anxious to get some dogs, he sent Gibson and Astrup to follow them and -see that they brought all the animals with them. - -Monday, April 4. About two o’clock this morning our expected visitors -arrived, and reported that they had seen nothing of Gibson and Astrup, -nor of Kyo and Keshu. The arrivals are Klayuh and her two children—the -elder, Tooky, apparently a young lady (as she has her beau in tow), -although they give her age as only twelve suns; and the younger, a girl -of five or six suns—Tooky’s admirer, Kookoo, Klayuh’s stepmother, a -widow of three months, with her small child on her back, and her beau -Ahko. Not knowing that her husband was dead, and in order to say -something to her when she came in my room, I asked her if the man -accompanying her was her husband, when, to my surprise, she burst into -tears and sobbed out that her husband was dead. I began to talk in a -sympathetic manner, when she suddenly dried her eyes and interrupted me -with, “Utchow, utchow, mikky sungwa Ahko wenia awanga” (wait, wait a -little while, and Ahko will be my husband). This forenoon another couple -arrived, both rather youthful in appearance, and the woman quite small; -they too had seen nothing of the boys. Just as we were through with -dinner Astrup came in and said Gibson was coming with Kyo and Keshu and -eight dogs; in about an hour and a half they arrived. After dinner I -helped Mr. Peary reload one of his cameras, and in this operation I -could see how nervous he still is. For the first time since I have known -him he has the blues, and pretty badly at that. He has lost confidence -in himself, and is harder to nurse than after his accident on board of -the “Kite.” However, he insisted on photographing and measuring all the -new-comers, and this kept us up until nearly two o’clock—Mr. Peary -photographing, the doctor measuring, and I recording. I saw that he was -very much exhausted, and I gave him his salt-water sponge-bath under the -blankets, after which he slept well, something he has not done of late. - -Wednesday, April 6. Yesterday the sun was warm enough to melt the snow -on top of the house, and I put my eider-down pillows out for an airing. -To-day has been so lovely that the women took their sewing on top of the -house, where they also took their babies, stripped them, and placed them -on a deerskin, allowing the sun to beat upon them. The little ones -crowed and seemed to enjoy it hugely. In company with Astrup and -Annowkah Mr. Peary sledged across to Herbert Island to get some blubber -for Annowkah’s family that had been cached there last summer. He got -back at midnight and looked very tired, having walked at least -twenty-five miles, but he is in better spirits, and I hope the trip will -benefit him in spite of his fatigue. During his absence I thawed, -scrubbed, cut up, and tried out twenty-five pounds of bacon, getting -twelve pounds of clear fat; I also cut up and tried out four pounds of -toodnoo (venison tallow), which gave me two and a half pounds of grease. -This is to be utilized in the lunches for the advance party. It took me -about eight hours to do all this. - -Saturday, April 9. This morning we found the doctor down with the -grippe. Poor fellow, I am afraid he will have a hard time of it. The -boys have no consideration for the sick, and he is right out in the -noise and turmoil all the time. At eleven A. M. Mr. Peary started with -his six best dogs and Keshu for Herbert Island to bring back some seals -cached there for dog-food. He rode the whole distance over, which, -measured by the odometer, was 14.06 miles. During his absence I worked -on canvas-bags for various instruments and on cording the sails intended -for our sledges. At 11.30 P. M., it being daylight throughout the -twenty-four hours, I started to meet Mr. Peary, but had only walked half -a mile when I saw him coming. The day has been, as usual, fine; -temperature ranging from –9° to –22°. We have now a team of ten good -dogs, a very cheering sight for us. Mr. Peary feels confident that he -will get more, and this means assured success on the inland ice. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER XI - SLEDGE JOURNEY INTO INGLEFIELD GULF - - The Start from Redcliffe—Our Team—Temporary Village on Northumberland - Island—A Crazy Woman—A Never-to-be-forgotten Night in a Native - Snow-igloo—From the Snow village to Keati—Across Whale Sound to - Netchiolumy—An Eskimo Metropolis—Aged Dames—From Netchiolumy to - Ittiblu—Midnight Glories—The Solitary Habitation at Ittiblu and its - Inhabitants—My Coldest Sleep in Greenland—Nauyahleah, the Ancient - Gossip—A Native Graveyard—From Ittiblu to the Head of Inglefield - Gulf—Meeting with a Traveling-party. - - -Monday, April 18. Having completed our arrangements for a week’s -exploration of Inglefield Gulf, we started from Redcliffe about noon -with the large dog-sledge, drawn by six dogs and driven by Kyo. - -The day was very bright, and the sun shone warm all the time. The -traveling as far as Cape Cleveland was good, but then it began to grow -heavy, and before we had gone half-way across there were places where -the dogs sank in to their bellies and almost swam, while we sank down to -our knees in a semi-slush; the sledges, however, went along nicely. -Fortunately, there were only a few such places, and as we got near the -west end of Herbert Island the ice became smoother and harder, and the -dogs sped along, two of us riding at a time, and sometimes all three. - -Our sledge reached the west end of Herbert Island at eight o’clock, and -two hours later, having crossed over to Northumberland Island, we came -upon a cantonment of four snow-igloos. These were occupied by families -from different settlements, who congregated here to be near a patch of -open water a short distance off, where they caught seal. The largest -snow-igloo was occupied by Tahtara, his wife, his father and mother, and -some small children. This was put at our disposal; another was occupied -by Ikwa and family, together with Kyoshu and his son, while Myah and his -wife were accommodated in a third. The mistress of the remaining igloo -was making an awful noise and trying to come out of her habitation, -while a man was holding her back and talking to her, but she screamed -and struggled so long as we remained where she could see us. I asked -Mané what was the nature of the trouble, and she told me that the woman -was pi-blocto (mad). - -As the wind was blowing fiercely and the air was thick with drifting -snow, Mr. Peary urged me to come into the igloo, which I did, rather to -please him than to get out of the storm. Now as long as I have been in -this country I have never entered an Eskimo hut; hearing about the filth -and vermin was quite enough for me. But Mr. Peary said the snow-house -was much cleaner, etc., etc., and seeing that it really made him -uncomfortable to have me stay outside, I yielded. Can I ever describe -it? First I crawled through a hole and along a passage, about six feet, -on my hands and knees; this was level with the snow outside. Then I came -to a hole at the end of the passage and in the top of it, which seemed -hardly large enough for me to get my head through, and through which I -could see numberless legs. Mr. Peary called for me to come, so the legs -moved to one side and I wedged myself into the aperture and climbed into -a circular place about five feet high, the floor of which, all of snow, -was about two feet higher than that of the tunnel. A platform one and a -half feet above this floor, and perhaps four feet wide in the middle and -two and a half feet at the sides, ran all around the walls of the igloo, -except that part in which the aperture or door came up in the floor. The -middle of this platform for about five feet was the bed, and it was -covered with two or three tooktoo skins, which almost crawled away, they -were so very much alive. On this bed sat Tahtara’s mother, -tailor-fashion, with a child on her back; another woman, younger by far, -and rather pretty, his wife; and two children, about six and eight years -old; and on the edge, with his feet resting on a chunk of walrus, from -which some hungry ones helped themselves whenever they wanted to, -regardless of the fact that a number of feet had been wiped on it, and -that it was not only frozen solid but perfectly raw, sat Tahtara -himself, smiling and saying, “Yess, yess,” to everything that Mr. Peary -said to him. Mr. Peary had also taken a seat on the edge of this bed, -and the women immediately made room for me between them; but this was -more than I could submit to, so, excusing myself by saying that my -clothing was wet from the drifting snow and that I could not think of -getting their bedding wet, I sat down, not without a shiver, on the edge -beside Mr. Peary, selfishly keeping him between the half-naked women and -myself. - -[Illustration: - - THE INHABITANTS OF “SNOW VILLAGE,” NORTHUMBERLAND ISLAND. -] - -The sides of this platform on either side of the doorway were devoted to -two ikkimers (stoves), one of which was tended by Tahtara’s mother and -the other by his wife. These stoves were very large and filled with -chunks of blubber; over each hung a pan, made of soapstone, containing -snow and water, and above these pans were racks or crates, fastened very -securely, on which the inmates flung their wet kamiks, stockings, -mittens, and birdskin shirts. The drippings of dirt, water, and insects -fell invariably into the drinking-water. I say “drinking-water”; they -have no water for any other purpose. Mr. Peary had put our Florence -oil-stove on the side platform and was heating water for our tea. -Fortunately our teapot had a cover on it, which I made my business to -keep closed. - -Besides the persons mentioned there were always as many husky visitors -as could possibly pack in without standing on one another. These took -turns with those unable to get in, so that after one had been in a while -and gazed at the circus, he would lower himself through the trap and -make way for a successor among the many crouching in the passageway -behind him. This was kept up throughout the night. Of course the -addition of our stove, together with the visitors, brought the -temperature up rapidly, and to my dismay the Eskimo ladies belonging to -the house took off all of their clothing except their necklaces of -sinishaw, just as unconcernedly as though no one were present. - -The odor of the place was indescribable. Our stove did not work properly -and gave forth a pungent smell of kerosene; the blubber in the other -stoves sizzled and sometimes smoked; and the huskies—well, suffice it to -say that was a decidedly unpleasant atmosphere in which I spent the -night. - -I soon found that if I kept my feet on the floor they would freeze, and -the only way I could keep them off the floor was to draw up my knees and -rest the side of one foot on the edge of the platform and place the -other upon it. In this way, and leaning on my elbow, I sat from ten at -night until ten in the morning, dressed just as I was on the sledge. I -made the best of the situation, and pretended to Mr. Peary that it was -quite a lark. - -Mr. Peary went out to look after the dogs several times during the -night, and each time reported that the wind was still blowing fiercely -and the snow drifting. In the morning the wind had subsided somewhat, -and after coffee the dogs were hitched, and we resumed our journey, -heading for Keati. - -After traveling about an hour we came upon a single stone igloo, which -proved to be Nipzangwa’s; he and his father, old Kulutunah, immediately -came out to meet us. We reached Keati, the inhabitants of which had been -apprised in advance of our coming by special messenger, about noon, and -an hour later, reinforced with additional dogs, started across the Sound -for the settlement on Barden Bay (Netchiolumy). Ikwa followed with his -dogs and sledge. The traveling was fine, and the dogs took our sledge, -with all three of us riding, along at a trot all the way. We arrived at -our destination about six P. M., the odometer registering 14.4 miles -from Keati. - -[Illustration: - - Map of Whale Sound and Inglefield Gulf. -] - -Here we found a great many natives, probably sixty, most of whom we had -already seen at Redcliffe during the winter. In addition to the regular -inhabitants of the place there were a half-dozen families from Cape York -and its vicinity, who were stopping in snow-igloos on their way home -from Redcliffe. The winter is their visiting time, and only during this -season do the inhabitants of one place see those of another; they travel -for miles and miles over the ice, some with dogs and some without, but -there is invariably at least one sledge with every party. This year the -travel has been unusually brisk, owing to the American settlement, which -all were anxious to visit. Where a family has a sledge and two or three -dogs, they load it with a piece of raw walrus or seal (enough to last -them from one village to the next), anything and everything that can be -scraped together for trade, one or two deerskins for bedding, and the -smallest child that has outgrown the mother’s hood. The rest of the -family then take turns in riding, one at a time, while two push the -sledge. - -On our arrival at the igloos we were immediately surrounded by the -natives; two very old women in particular were led to me, and one of -them, putting her face close to mine—much closer than I -relished—scrutinized me carefully from head to foot, and then said -slowly, “Uwanga sukinuts amissuare, koona immartu ibly takoo nahme,” -which means, “I have lived a great many suns, but have never seen -anything like you.” - -We had brought our things up to the igloos and intended to get our -supper on the hill, but the native odor, together with that of _passé_ -pussy (seal) and awick (walrus) lying about, was too strong, and I -suggested that we return to the sledge. The two old women who first -greeted us, despite the fact that they could not walk alone, were -determined to accompany us, and they were helped down the hill to the -sledge. They looked as old and feeble as women at home do between eighty -and eighty-five. Never having seen such a sight, they could not let the -chance go by, even at the expense of their little strength. Not being -able to carry everything in one trip, I went back for the rest, -preferring this to staying with the sledge, where the natives were now -swarming, and wanting to handle everything they saw. When I came to the -igloos again, Annowee, a Cape York woman, who had lately been to -Redcliffe, began to beg me not to go down, but to have Mr. Peary come up -to her; she had “ah-ah” (pain) in her knees and could not possibly make -the descent. She wanted to see us as long as she could, as she would -never see our like again. All this time she was not only talking loudly, -but clutching at my arm whenever I turned to go, and when I said, -“Utchow, utchow, wanga tigalay” (just wait, I am coming back), she said, -“Peeuk,” but did not want me to take the things down for fear I should -not come back. The other women now closed about me, and all begged me to -stay. Mr. Peary, who remained with the sledge, was somewhat disturbed by -my position, but it was all done in kindly feeling. In spite of the fact -that Annowee “could not come down,” she was at the sledge almost as soon -as I was. - -We took our supper, after which we bartered for tanned oogzook-sinishaw -(seal-thong), sealskins, bearskin trousers, and two dogs. Old Ahnahna -gave me a scolding for the benefit of her companions because I would not -give her a needle; she said Mr. Peary was “peudiochsoa” (very good) but -“Mittie” Peary was “peeuk nahme”—that I used to give her needles, but -now I would not do it, etc. While saying this she was laughing all the -time, and when I gave her a cup of tea and a cracker she changed her -opinion of me at once. - -Mr. Peary walked to the Tyndall Glacier and took photos of it, and of -the village and the natives. Kyo then hitched up the dogs, we said -good-by all around, Ikwa included, and at eight o’clock left for -Ittiblu. - -To show how sharp these semi-savages are, I may mention the following -incident: On the way from Keati to Netchiolumy we dropped at different -times three snow-shoes from our sledge, but seeing Ikwa behind us pick -them up, we did not stop for them. On reaching Netchiolumy he brought -them to us, and said they were fine for us, were they not? We said yes. -“Well,” he said, “if I had not picked them up you would not have them, -and as my eyes hurt me very much, and I see you have them to spare, you -should give me a pair of smoked glasses.” I thought so too, and he got -what he asked for. - -We had the perfection of traveling. The surface of Whale Sound was just -rough enough to prevent it from being slippery, and yet so smooth that -the sledge went along as if it were running on a track. - -Mr. Peary, Kyo, the driver, and myself were all three seated upon the -sledge, which in addition was heavily laden with our sleeping-bags, -equipment, provisions, etc., and yet the nine handsome creatures, picked -dogs of the tribe, who were pulling us, immediately broke into a run, -and, with tails waving like plumes over their backs, kept up a brisk -gait until we reached Ittiblu at two o’clock in the morning; the -odometer registered 21.94 miles. The night was a beautiful one. The sun -shone brightly until near midnight, when it went down like a ball of -fire, tinging the sky with crimson, purple, and yellow lights, which -gradually faded out and left a dull grayish blue, which in turn changed -to a gray just dark enough to show us the numberless stars that studded -the firmament. When we reached Ittiblu the sun came up from behind the -dark cliffs of the eastern shore of Inglefield Gulf. We had been -traveling sixteen hours, and were pretty well tired out. Our dogs, too, -were glad to have a meal and rest. - -We immediately set to work to build a snow-igloo of our own, on the icy -floor of which we placed our sleeping-bags and everything that we did -not wish handled by the inhabitants of the settlement. While still at -work on this we were visited by two residents, Panikpah, a former -visitor at Redcliffe, and Koomenahpik, his father; they showed a true -native hospitality by asking us to share the comforts of their igloo—an -invitation, however, which we politely declined. - -[Illustration: - - Our Snow-igloo. -] - -Our igloo proved icy cold, and I shall never forget the difference of -temperature between inside and outside. It was just like going from a -cellar into a temperature of 90°, and we resolved that unless it was -storming we would in future sleep without shelter. Among our breakfast -callers was the wife of Koomenahpik, Nauyahleah, the most comical old -soul I had yet seen. She evidently felt it her duty to entertain me, and -began to tell me all about herself and her family; she let me know that -I had already seen one of her sons at Redcliffe, whose name is Tawanah, -and who lives still farther up Inglefield Gulf; he had stopped at -Ittiblu, she said, on his return from the Peary igloo, and told her what -a large koona Peary’s koona was, and how white her skin was, and that -her hair was as long as she could stretch with her arms. She followed us -wherever we went, and chatted incessantly—whether we were taking -photographs or making observations for latitude and time, it made no -difference to her. If we did not answer her she would sing at the top of -her voice for a few minutes, and then chatter again. She showed us a -number of graves, which are nothing but mounds of stones piled on the -dead bodies, and told us who lay beneath the rocks. - -At eight in the evening we left Ittiblu, with four additional dogs -obtained from Panikpah. All night long we dashed on over the smooth -surface of Whale Sound, except where we passed Academy Bay. Here from -one cape to the other the snow was soft and several inches deep. Again -the sun only left us for a short time, and in spite of a temperature of -–35°, the ride was a delightful one. - -About two A. M. we were abreast of another beautiful glacier, a great -river of ice slowly making its way from the eternal inland ice to the -sea. The smooth and even appearance of all the glaciers, Mr. Peary told -me, was due to the blanket of snow which covered them. - -It took us about an hour to pass the face of the ice-sheet, which in -places towered above us to a height of one hundred feet and more. As we -rounded the southwest corner Kyo sang out, “Inuits, Inuits,” and, -looking ahead, we saw an Eskimo snow-igloo built up against the rocks on -the shore. Scattered about on the ice-foot lay about a dozen seals, some -whole, and some partially cut up; three or four young white seals, a -number of sealskins, a large sledge and a small toy-sledge patterned -exactly like the large one, and coils of sealskin and walrus lines. In -the “tochsoo,” or entrance to the igloo, was tied a young dog, who had -no idea of awakening his master, for he only looked at us and gave no -sound. - -In response to Kyo’s shouts a man came slowly crawling out, rubbing his -eyes, and showing every evidence of having been suddenly awakened out of -a sound sleep. This proved to be Kudlah, a young native whose home was -at the head of Inglefield Gulf, and who on a visit to Redcliffe during -the winter had been nicknamed by our boys “Misfortune.” Kudlah had a -hang-dog sort of expression. We were told that a woman would only live -with him a year and then leave him, it being the privilege of the Eskimo -maiden to return to her parents’ roof at the end of a year, provided -there is no family, if she finds that she has made a mistake. -“Misfortune” had grown very fond of the “kabloonah’s kapah” (white man’s -food), especially coffee and crackers, during his visit at Redcliffe, -and he now came right to our sledge and asked if we had no “kapah” for -him. He told us that he, with his wife, and Tawanah with his wife, a son -twelve years of age, and three smaller children, were on their way to -Redcliffe. They had left their home, Nunatochsoah, at the head of -Inglefield Gulf, two days before, and had walked all day and until -midnight, when they built the snow-house and camped. The women and -children being very tired, and seal-holes, whence young seals are -procured, being plentiful in this neighborhood, they decided to rest a -few days and hunt seal. I asked him where they found the pretty little -white creatures, and he told me that the mother seal crawls out on the -ice through the cracks and hollows out a place for herself under the -snow, not disturbing the surface at all, except perhaps by raising it a -little, and thus giving it the appearance of a snow-drift or mound. Here -she gives birth to her young, and stays with them until they are old -enough to take to the water, leaving them only long enough to get food -for herself. - -To me these mounds did not seem different in appearance from the -ordinary snow-mound, but the trained eye of the native immediately -distinguishes the “pussy igloo” (seal-house); he walks softly up to it, -and puts his ear close to the snow and listens. If he hears any sign of -life he jumps on the mound as hard as he can, until it caves in, and -then, with a kick in the head, he dispatches the young one. Then he lies -in wait for the mother seal to return to her young, when she is promptly -harpooned. - -[Illustration: - - SLEDGING INTO INGLEFIELD GULF. -] - -While Kudlah was entertaining us, Tawanah and the two women came out of -the igloo. The latter were very much interested in me, and wanted to -know if there were any more women like me at Redcliffe. When told that -there were not, but that they were plentiful in the American country, -they asked, “Are they all so tall, and so white, and have they all such -long hair? We never have seen women like you.” - -Our driver had been refreshing himself with seal and blubber, and Mr. -Peary now called to him to untangle the dogs, as we wished to continue -our journey. This he did not like, and said the people were all gone, -and there was no use in going any farther up the gulf. The snow, he -said, was very deep, and the dogs would not be able to pull the load; -but Mr. Peary was firm in his decision to push on to the head of the -gulf, if possible, in order to complete his surveys. Accordingly, at -four A. M. we started again, and to our surprise Kudlah and Tawanah -accompanied us. When questioned as to their destination, Tawanah said -they had a lot of sealskins and young seals at Nanatochsuahmy which he -wanted to give Mr. Peary, and they were going as far as his igloo with -us. - -In about three hours we came to a small island, and here we pitched -camp. After a hearty supper of Boston baked beans, corned beef, and -stewed tomatoes, with tea and crackers, we turned in, and what a -delightful sleep we had! The sun shone warm, and that peculiar stillness -which is found only in the Arctic regions was conducive to long sleep. - -[Illustration: - - Mount Daly. -] - -After supper we explored the little island and found the plateau covered -with the tracks of deer and ptarmigan, but we could descry no living -creature. The view from the summit was very fine. We could see down the -sound as far as Herbert Island, and almost up to the head of Inglefield -Gulf; on the right the eye took in the greater part of Academy Bay, and -on the left in the distance towered Mts. Putnam, Daly, and Adams. - -Arriving at Nunatochsoah, we spent about an hour in skirmishing about -the place, Tawanah taking us to various caches containing sealskins, -both tanned and untanned, and two caches containing young seals, about -twenty-two in all. Kudlah, too, had a few seals and skins, and both men -were anxious to barter their possessions with Mr. Peary for a knife and -a saw. - - - - - CHAPTER XII - THE SLEDGE JOURNEY—(_Continued_) - - From Tawanah’s Igloo to the Great Heilprin Glacier—The Little - Matterhorn—A Wet Night—Ptarmigan Island—“As the Crow flies” for the - Eastern Bastion of Herbert Island—A Nap in the Sunshine—Back at - Redcliffe—A Busy Week of Preparation for the Start on the Inland - Ice—Canine Rivals. - - -We unloaded our sledge, and, with Kudlah as our driver, continued the -exploration of Inglefield Gulf to its head. In spite of Kudlah’s having -spent the entire time at Tawanah’s in eating seal, we had scarcely -traveled a mile before he said he was hungry for American kapah. When -told it was not yet time, he turned his attention to the dogs again, but -soon we saw that the dogs were having a go-as-you-please time, and on -looking to the driver for the reason we found him sitting bolt-upright -and fast asleep. We woke him, and to keep him awake I gave him some -crackers to eat. They had the desired effect as long as they lasted, but -as soon as they had disappeared off he went to sleep again, and I came -to the conclusion that they acted more as a narcotic than a stimulant, -and discontinued them. - -Just before reaching the head of this great gulf we came to a nunatak in -one of the numerous glaciers, shaped like the Swiss Matterhorn, and we -named it the Little Matterhorn. We were in an Alpine landscape, but the -more striking features of the European ice-covered mountains were here -brought out in increased intensity. Arrived at the head of the gulf, we -were confronted by one of the grandest glaciers that we had yet seen. - -Never shall I forget my impressions, as, on this bracing April day, with -the thermometer from 30° to 35° below zero, Mr. Peary and I, shod with -snow-shoes, climbed over the deep-drifted snow to the summit of a black -rock, destined in a few years to be engulfed by the resistless flow of -the glacier, and from this elevated point looked out across the mighty -stream of ice to the opposite shore, so distant as to be indistinct, -even in the brilliant spring sunshine that was lighting all the scene. -Looking up the glacier, the vast ice river disappeared in the serene and -silent heights of the ice-cap. To think that this great white, -apparently lifeless, expanse, stretching almost beyond the reach of the -eye, is yet the embodiment of one of the mightiest forces of nature, a -force against which only the iron ribs of mother-earth herself can offer -resistance! As we stood there silent, a block of ice larger than many a -pretentious house, yet but an atom compared with the glacier itself, -pushed from its balance by the imperceptible but constant movement of -the glacier, fell with a crash from the glacier face, sending the echoes -flying along the ice-cliffs, crushing through the thick bay ice, and -bringing the dogs, far below us, to their feet with startled yelps. - -The glacier, which forms much of the eastern wall of Inglefield Gulf, -has a frontage of about ten miles, and is the largest of the series of -giant glaciers in which are here concentrated the energies of the -ice-cap. North of it lie the Smithson Mountains, and farther beyond, a -vast congeries of ice-streams which circle westward and define the -northern head of the gulf. To the eastern sheet, upon whose bosom no -human being had ever stepped, and on whose beauty and grandeur no white -person had ever gazed, we gave the name of Heilprin Glacier, in honor of -Prof. Angelo Heilprin, of the Academy of Natural Sciences of -Philadelphia. - -On the upward voyage to Greenland we had passed numbers of glaciers, -beginning with the great Frederikshaab ice-stream. I had seen the -distant gleaming of the Jakobshavn Glacier, and after passing Upernavik -we were never without a glacier in sight, and yet it was not until -September, when Mr. Peary was able to get out in the boat, and we went -to the head of McCormick Bay to see the inland ice-party off, that I -came in actual contact with one of these streams of ice. About eight -miles above Redcliffe, on the same side of the bay, there is a hanging -glacier, which has peered at us past the shore cliffs ever since we -entered McCormick Bay. This glacier is supported upon a great pile of -gravel, looking like a railway fill, which gives it the appearance of -being upon stilts. It was a peculiar experience to see the red-brown -rocks and cliffs glowing in the sun, and this great vertical wall of -blue ice standing out beyond them, with little streams of water -trickling down from it, and occasionally fragments of ice breaking away -and dashing down with a muffled, metallic sound; and more than this, to -find the ever-constant friend, the Arctic poppy, growing actually -beneath the overhanging walls of the glacier. The great glaciers, too, -that surround Tooktoo Valley, with its green meadows and glistening -lakes, will always remain with me an exquisite recollection. - -Returning to our sledge, we made a direct line for our camp, which was -reached after an absence of ten hours. - -Wearied with our journey, we immediately prepared to rest, and selected -a sheltered nook on the sea ice, where the snow was several inches deep, -and where we were protected from the light breeze which blows almost -constantly by a huge buttress of ice, part of the ice-foot. The memory -of the delightful sleep of the night before, when we lay right out in -the sunshine, helped me to hurry the sleeping-bags into place and crawl -into mine without losing much time. - -Tawanah came to me and asked if I would not like to have my kamiks and -stockings put up on the rocks where the sun could shine on them and dry -out what little moisture they might contain, and I told him to take them -away. In what seemed to me only a few minutes, but what was actually -four hours, I was awakened by some one grasping both sides of my -sleeping-bag, evidently trying to stand it and its contents on end. The -words “Don’t roll over; try to stand up as quickly as you can; the tide -has risen above the ice,” rang in my ears. On looking about me I saw -that I had been lying in about six inches of water and peacefully -sleeping. - -Fortunately I had a sealskin cover over my deerskin bag, and the water -had not penetrated it; therefore my deerskin knickerbockers and flannel -wrapper, which I always take off after I have pulled myself down in the -bag, fold and place under me, were perfectly dry. My poor husband did -not fare so well. He had folded his trousers, kamiks, and stockings and -placed them under his head as a pillow, and of course they were soaking -wet. Not having a cover to his sleeping-bag, the water had soaked -through, and it was this that had wakened him. - -After a time we managed to dry out, and, continuing our journey, reached -our little island at midnight. As we approached the island numbers of -ptarmigan were seen flying about the rocks, a circumstance which -determined us to name the spot Ptarmigan Island. We secured a few of -these beautiful, snow-white birds, and, after taking observations for -position, proceeded on our course to Tawanah’s igloo, which we reached -shortly after four A. M. - -While preparing the morning meal, I was the center of an admiring -circle. Men, women, and children formed a perfect ring about me. Never -had they seen such a stove, and never such cooking. They chattered -incessantly, and plied me with so many questions that I began to despair -of getting anything to eat. Finally I gave each a tin of coffee and some -crackers, and this kept them busy long enough for me to eat my meal, and -we then turned in. - -We awoke about four o’clock in the afternoon, and at once began our -exploration of the surrounding cliffs and the neighboring glacier, which -Mr. Peary considered one of the first magnitude, and named, after the -distinguished secretary of the American Geographical Society, the -Hurlbut Glacier. It was nine o’clock before we were through with -exploring, photographing, and making observations, and then we made a -dash for the east end of Herbert Island. - -Mr. Peary laid our course down the center of the gulf, and we were -beginning to calculate the time when we should reach Redcliffe, when -suddenly we encountered deep, soft snow, through which the dogs could -not pull the loaded sledge with any of us seated upon it. There was -nothing left for us but to get off and walk, or rather wade through the -snow. After a few hours of this tiring work the dogs refused to go -farther, and it was only with special coaxing and driving that any -progress was made. When at last we reached Herbert Island we were almost -as glad as the dogs to be able to rest. Redcliffe was still fifteen -miles distant. - -Mr. Peary and I spread our sleeping-bags down on the snow out in the -brilliant sunshine, and lay down on them for a nap. We had not been -asleep long when I awoke and found that Mr. Peary had arisen and was -walking rapidly in the direction of the ice-foot. He was following an -Eskimo who had shouldered a rifle, and my first impression was that the -native had taken one of our own rifles from the sledge and was making -off with it. - -[Illustration: - - AN APRIL JOURNEY. -] - -At Kyo’s call the retreating figure stopped short and turned back. He -came directly to us, and we recognized him as Tahtara, the man at whose -snow-igloo I had spent such a memorable night. He had been at Redcliffe, -and was now out on a seal-hunt, with a companion, named Kulutingwah, who -presently came dashing round with two fine-looking dogs and one of our -sledges. - -These dogs were the most affectionate Eskimo dogs we had yet seen, and -by far the prettiest. They were large, powerful-looking animals, that -dragged the sledge with three natives upon it through the soft snow as -easily as if they had no load at all. They were the first dogs we had -seen who were trained to obey their master’s words without the aid of -the whip. When Kulutingwah left his sledge-team he did not have to turn -the sledge over and stick the upstanders into the snow to keep the dogs -from running away, but simply told them to stay there, and with a low, -deep growl they would stretch themselves upon the snow and remain -perfectly quiet until his return, in spite of the tempting pieces of -seal meat which might be lying around in their vicinity. - -After restowing our sledges we started homeward. Our dogs, like horses -at home, seemed to smell the stable, and broke into a brisk trot, which -they kept up until we reached Redcliffe, at nine in the evening, Sunday, -April 24. - -Dr. Cook, who had been left in charge, had done good work during our -absence of a week. Quite a number of natives from Netchiolumy, Keati, -and the snow village had arrived, and among them an unusual number of -lady visitors, all willing to sew for the “Americans” for the small -consideration of a couple of needles. The doctor had set them to work on -kamiks, fur mittens, fur stockings, and fur trousers, and they had -worked like beavers all the week, while the men had put in their time -hunting, and a goodly number of seals were added to the store of -dog-meat. - -[Illustration: - - Musical Dogs. -] - -We were now in possession of twenty-two good dogs, the pick of all the -dogs in the tribe, and Mr. Peary felt that the success of his long -sledge journey was assured. Every pack of Eskimo dogs has its leader. If -a new dog is added to the pack a fight takes place at once between him -and the leader to determine his position in the team. Now, up to this -time a great white shaggy brute, from Cape York, whom we called Lion, on -account of his gray mane, had been the canine king of Redcliffe. With -the arrival of Kulutingwah’s fine dogs there came a change. Lion and his -first lieutenant, a dog marked very much like himself, at once charged -upon the new-comers, evidently expecting to thrash them into subjection -as easily as had been done in the case of the other dogs, but he, for -once, was doomed to disappointment; although the fight raged fierce and -long, poor Lion was vanquished, and forced to resign his position as -king in favor of the larger of the new-comers, whom we called “Naleyah” -(chief). - - - - - CHAPTER XIII - OFF FOR THE INLAND ICE - - The First Detachment of the Inland Ice-party leaves - Redcliffe—Departure of the Leader of the Expedition—Rest after the - Excitement—Arrival of the Ravens—Return of Gibson and Matt—Gloomy - Weather—Daily Incidents at Redcliffe—Spring Arrivals of - Eskimos—Eskimos imprisoned in their Igloos by a May Snow-storm—The - First Little Auks—Open Water off Cape Cleveland—Harbingers of - Summer—Myriads of Auks and Seals—Snow-buntings—Green Grass and - Flies—Kyo, the Angekok. - - -Saturday, April 30. The past week has been one of hustle and bustle. The -overland ice journey has been uppermost in our minds and actions, and -this morning the real start was made. All the boys except Verhoeff, with -the dogs and five natives, left with three loaded sledges for the head -of the bay, whither several loads of provisions had already been -transported. Mr. Peary is to follow in a few days. - -[Illustration: - - Preparing for the Start. -] - -Wednesday, May 4. At 8.30 P. M. yesterday, Mr. Peary with Matt, who had -returned for additional equipment, started for the head of the bay to -join Gibson, Astrup, and Dr. Cook, who have been there since Saturday. I -watched him out of sight, and then returned to the house, where Mr. -Verhoeff and I will keep bachelor and maid’s hall. For three full months -I shall be without my husband—a year of anxiety and worry to me. It has -been arranged to have two of the boys accompany the expedition, merely -as a “supporting-party,” and their farthest point will probably be the -Humboldt Glacier; I can therefore expect news from the interior in three -weeks or less. The last ten days have been one continuous rush for me, -and part of the time I hardly knew where I was. After I am rested I -shall begin a thorough overhauling of everything, and get things ready -for packing. As I write, 11.45 P. M., the sun is shining, and as I think -Mr. Peary will begin his march to-night, I hope this morning’s -snow-storm has cleared the weather for some time to come. Strange -coincidence: just six years ago I bade Mr. Peary good-by as he started -on his first Greenland trip. May it be a good omen, and he return as -successful as he did then! - -Saturday, May 7. The weather continues alternately dreary and pleasant, -but the approach of springtime is unmistakable. Already the ravens have -arrived, and moderate thaws have begun to loosen our covering of snow -and ice. Shortly after six this morning I was awakened by hearing one of -the huskies cry, “My tigalay, my tigalay” (Matt has returned), and in a -minute later Matt and Gibson came in. The former had returned on account -of a frozen heel, while Gibson came back for additional alcohol. In a -note to me Mr. Peary stated that he had met with a severe obstacle in -the way of heavy snow and steep up-grades, and therefore had not made -the distance that he had hoped to cover in a week’s time. - -Sunday, May 8. At last it seems to have cleared, but still the head of -the bay is enveloped in mist. Gibson left us again yesterday, and he is -probably with his party this evening. The thermometer is steadily -rising, and with a temperature to-day of 28° everything has been -dripping. I got all the snow off the roof of the house and the -canvas-covered annex on the west side, as water had begun running down -between the tarred paper. - -Tuesday, May 10. All night the wind blew a gale from the east and -northeast, and all day the snow has been flying in clouds so thick that -at times we could not see the tide-gage, a hundred yards distant. My -thoughts have been continually with the little party on the ice. I know -who will have the worst time, who will have to look out for everything, -and it worries me because I know he is not as well as he ought to be. -Everything around Redcliffe is hidden in the snow-drifts, and the snow -has been coming in under the canvas until we have three feet of it in -front of our door inside the inclosure, in spite of Matt’s blocking all -the openings in the walls. With Matt’s help the range and lockers were -moved out of my room to-day, and we found the wall and floor covered -with ice. I knocked off as much as I could, and removed the cardboard -from the floor, and to-night the blanket and carpet at that end of the -room have thawed and are dripping wet. This evening Kyo wanted to know -if we would permit him to go with us beyond Cape York, to where the -other Eskimos live (Upernavik, or Disko). I told him he could; then he -wanted to know if I would draw a map of Greenland, and mark our route -upon it. He seemed to understand, and was pleased to know that he could -go. - -Wednesday, May 11. A beautiful day. The drifts are hard as marble. Matt -shoveled the snow out of the entrance, and we once more opened our -windows. The drip from the roof has forced us to remove all the snow and -ice, and we are thus recovering our non-wintry appearance. - -Friday, May 13. Contrary to all expectations, last night and to-day have -been warm and bright. All the huskies gathered on our roof, which is dry -and retains the sun’s heat. Noyah, the baby, rolled about entirely naked -in a temperature of 22°, except for a cap, which was nothing more or -less than the toe of one of Mr. Peary’s cast-off blue socks. Verhoeff, -who has made a tour to one of the neighboring icebergs, reports that the -snow has been swept from the ice in the middle of the bay, and that the -ice has commenced to melt. - -Saturday, May 21. The past week has seen our home again converted into -an Eskimo encampment. There have been numerous arrivals of old and new -faces, representing all conditions of age from the tiniest baby to -Tahtara’s mother. The simple folk have come as heralds of the -approaching spring, some to stay and others to proceed farther. They -report the return of the little auk at Keati. Yesterday and to-day have -been wild, stormy days, the wind blowing a gale from the southeast -nearly all the time, and when it was not actually snowing the snow was -flying so furiously that it was all but impossible to face it. The two -Eskimo families in the snow-igloos experienced much discomfort, and this -morning Kyo called for Matt to dig him out. The snow had drifted in the -entrance to his igloo until it had filled and piled up higher than the -house, and he had had great difficulty in keeping an air-hole open -during the night. - -Monday, May 23. A beautiful day. I hoisted a new flag on Redcliffe House -in honor of my sister Mayde’s birthday. Yesterday was the anniversary of -my own birth, the first of my life when I did not receive a birthday -wish from my dear mother, and the first which I spent without receiving -a loving greeting from some dear one. I was obliged to go through the -routine formality of setting out the wine, but I felt neither like -eating nor drinking. Yesterday morning the first little auks were seen -flying over Redcliffe House, some in the direction of the head of the -bay, others in the opposite direction. - -Kyo, Matt, and I indulged in a little target-shooting to-day with my -revolver. We put up a tin at forty feet distance and fired six shots -each. In the first round Matt scored nothing, Kyo hit the target 3 -times, while I hit it 5 times. I then stepped out, and Matt and Kyo -tried again, the former scoring 5 and the latter 4. - -Thursday, May 26. A perfect day, clear, calm, and warm. Nearly four -weeks have elapsed since Mr. Peary left me, and yet no news. For a full -week, day by day, I have been expecting the supporting-party, and am now -nearly desperate. Being in no mood for writing, reading, or sewing, I -called Jack and started for Cape Cleveland, where open water had been -reported. For a quarter of a mile before reaching the Cape I sank into -water almost to my boot-tops, but I felt fully repaid for my trouble by -the beautiful sight which met my gaze. The water, of deepest blue and -clear as crystal, sparkled and danced in the sunlight, as if it were -overjoyed to have broken loose from its long imprisonment, and once more -have the countless birds sporting on its bosom. The water and the air -above it were at times black with birds, the majority being little auks. -There was, however, a goodly sprinkling of black guillemots and gulls. I -also saw a pair of eider-ducks. I watched this scene for some time. Two -stately, massive bergs in the center of the pool of dancing water -imparted grandeur to the picture—now glistening with the dazzling white -of marble, and a moment later black with the myriads of feathered -creatures that had settled on them. The sight of the water made me feel -more homesick than ever, so I continued my walk around the Cape. At -every step I broke into the snow nearly to my hips, and sometimes there -was water under it. I saw four pairs of snow-buntings chirping and -flitting about among the rocks and patches of grass where the snow had -disappeared. They were evidently getting acquainted with each other, and -looking for a place in which to make their home. Almost half-way between -the trap-dyke and Three-Mile Valley I came upon the place where -Kulutunah had formerly had his tupic, and where he had left nearly one -half of a last summer’s seal lying exposed on the ice. About this had -gathered hundreds upon hundreds of flies, some large and some small, the -first I have seen since leaving Upernavik, I think. I brought some back -as specimens. The air was filled with the chirping of birds, the buzz of -flies, the drip, drip, drip of the snow and ice everywhere about, and -the odor of decaying seal. On my return I climbed over the Cape in -preference to rounding it, as I had seen large pieces of ice break off -and float out into the dark water. From my elevated position the surface -of the ice around and beyond the water looked as if it had had its face -badly freckled, so covered was it with black specks; each speck -represented a seal taking his sun-bath. Yet it is very difficult for the -natives to catch these creatures, as the ice is rotten and will not bear -their weight. - -On reaching Redcliffe House I saw Kyo dressed in a pair of woven -trousers, a blue flannel shirt, and a pair of suspenders given him by -Matt, and Mr. Peary’s old gray felt hat, which I gave him a day or two -ago, and which he hesitated to take, because, he said, it was not mine -to give, and Mr. Peary would say on his return, “Ibly tiglipo, ibly -peeuk nahme” (you steal, you are no good). He looked precisely like an -Indian as he stood there, busy putting up his tent on the brow of the -hill directly back of the house. This place has been free of snow for -some time and is perfectly dry, while his igloo, as well as the other -two, is constantly wet from the melting snow. He is filled with the idea -of going to America. Every night he comes for a magazine to look at -after he has gone to bed, as he has seen some of the boys do. He says -Mr. Peary will be his “athata” (father) and Missy Peary his “ahnahna” -(mother) on the ship, and when he gets to America he will learn how to -read, and then he won’t have to select books with pictures. Whatever he -sees he wants to know if he will see it made in America. He tells me -that he is an “angekok” (doctor), and that he always cures the people. -They never die where he is, and he can make them do just as he chooses. -His wife does not seem to care to go to America, so for the last few -days he has borrowed two or three magazines to take into his igloo, -where for three or four hours at a stretch he has sat with his wife in -front of him and the book between them, swaying himself from side to -side, and singing a monotonous sort of tune at the top of his voice. In -this way, the other natives assure me, he works a spell over her, and -she willingly consents to go with him. - -[Illustration: - - Cape Cleveland. -] - - - - - CHAPTER XIV - WEARY DAYS OF WAITING - - Anxious Fears for the Inland Ice-party—A “Red-Letter” Day—Return of - the Supporting-party with Good News—First Flowers—Job’s Comforters - among the Huskies—An Attack of Homesickness—The Snow disappearing—My - Confidante, the Brook—The Eider-ducks return—I stand my Watch with - the Others—Matt crippled by a Frosted Heel—We are reduced to a Seal - Diet—A July Snow-storm—Influx of Natives—Open Water reaches - Redcliffe—Matt overhears a Native Plot to kill us. - - -Monday, May 30. We had a great excitement about 8.30 this evening. A -black spot was seen out in the sound beyond an iceberg, over two miles -away. With the aid of the glass we could see it was moving in our -direction, and we thought it was Annowkah coming back from the other -bay. Kyo, who was watching constantly, all at once became very much -excited, declaring it was not an Innuit, and he could not tell what it -was. Then, suddenly throwing down the glass, his eyes almost starting -from his head, he exclaimed, “Nahnook, nahnook, boo mut toy-hoy, car, -car, toy-hoy” (a bear! a bear!—the rifle, quick, hurry, hurry, quick). -Matt and I rushed into the house for our rifles and ammunition, but by -the time we came out the object was behind the berg, lost to view. It -soon reappeared, however, and we then saw that it was a dog. Kyo, who -had been watching it closely, immediately recognized it as one of Mr. -Peary’s pack, and said that it was in a starving condition. The poor -animal was hardly able to get along, and had evidently had nothing to -eat for a week or ten days. He is very weak, especially in his hind -legs, and he has a cut from his left eye down to his mouth. The dog is -the one which we had designated the “devil dog,” and was in charge of -the supporting-party. Can it be that the supporting-party has met with -mishap, or are they returning by way of Smith Sound? The incident brings -up unpleasant forebodings, but I am utterly powerless in my position. - -[Illustration: - - FRAGMENTS FROM THE HEILPRIN GLACIER—HEAD OF INGLEFIELD GULF. -] - -Thursday, June 2. Three more days of increasing suspense, and still no -news. It is now twenty-seven days since Gibson left us to rejoin the -party, and at that time Mr. Peary wrote, “We go over the ice-cap -to-night,” and he thought that the supporting-party would be back in ten -days, or at most in two weeks. Spring is now rapidly coming to us, and -the mercury, in the sun, has risen well into the seventies. - -Friday, June 3. My nightmare is over; the boys have returned, and they -bring good news of my husband. I cannot describe how I felt when the -doctor, on shaking hands with me, told me he had left Mr. Peary and -Astrup both in good health and spirits, and doing good traveling. Both -boys look exceedingly well, although their faces, and noses -particularly, are much burned and blistered by the sun and wind, and -Gibson complains of his eyes. I got them something hot to drink, made -them chocolate, and then retired to my room to read my letter. Gibson -weighs 173¼ pounds net, against 176¼ when he left; the doctor weighs 153 -pounds net, as against 146¼. - -[Illustration: - - A Corner of my Room. -] - -Saturday, June 11. The past week has been almost entirely without -incident. Dr. Cook has assumed command of our establishment, and I am -therefore free of responsibility beyond that of taking care of myself. -My thoughts wander constantly to the members of the inland ice-party, -and I often wonder if they will return in time for us to go south still -this summer. The doctor and Gibson do not expect them before the 1st of -September, while our Eskimo friends cheerfully assure us that they will -never return. My instinct revolts against this judgment, but it makes an -impression upon me, nevertheless. To-day I walked over to the -Quarter-Mile Valley, and sat by the stream which there rushes down from -the cliffs and tumbles over the icy hummocks, cutting its way through -the snow that fills its bed and over the ice-foot into the bay. The -little snow-buntings were chirping and flitting about me, and great -patches of purple flowers, the first of which I observed just one week -ago, were to be seen wherever the snow had melted sufficiently for them -to peep through; these were the earliest flowers of the season. I sat -here and indulged in a fit of homesickness. Never in my life have I felt -so utterly alone and forsaken, with no possible chance of knowing how -and where my dear ones are. It surely must end some time. - -Sunday, June 12. The snow is disappearing rapidly, and just as soon as a -patch of ground is laid bare it is covered with flowers, usually the -purple ones, although I have seen a few tiny white and yellow ones as -well. The west wall of our entrance is covered with green shoots. The -doctor and Gibson are preparing for a ten days’ hunting-trip up the bay, -and they have made up the following list of provisions and accessories: -140 crackers (seven per man per day), 10 pounds sugar, 4 pounds meal, 8 -pounds hominy, 5 cans milk, 1 three-pound can of tongue, 2 cans corned -beef, 3 cans tomatoes, 3 cans corn, 2 cans soup, 4 cakes pea-soup, 4 -pounds bacon, 1 package cornstarch, 1 can Mosqueros food, flavoring -extract, salt, 4 pounds coffee, ½ pound of tea, 15 pounds dog-meat for -two dogs, 2 cans alcohol, 2 alcohol-stoves, 2 boxes wind-matches and 1 -box blueheads, 1 box of cartridges, and a number of shells. They expect -to leave this evening. The condition of Matt’s frozen heel has been -steadily growing worse, and, poor fellow! he is beginning to suffer -acutely. He is threatened with a chronic running sore. - -There is only one thing now left to me which gives me any pleasure, and -that is to go to the little brook in the Quarter-Mile Valley and listen -to its music while I give my thoughts full play. I close my eyes, and -once more I am in our little tent, listening to this same music, mingled -with the sound of the “Kite’s” whistle and the splash of the white -whales as they frisked back and forth in the water close to the shore. -This was when we first landed, and before the house was ready for us. - -Wednesday, June 15. The last of winter is leaving us. The water is -rushing and gurgling on all sides, and the brown cliffs back of the -house, as well as the red cliffs to the right, are almost entirely bared -of the snowy mantle which has so long covered them. Eider-ducks are -passing us daily, and in their wake come other birds from the balmy -south. - -My routine tramps have been largely interfered with by the character of -the walking, which has become very bad, snow, slush, and water -alternating in layers. Into this one plunges thigh-deep without warning, -and it requires considerable maneuvering to extricate one’s self without -becoming saturated with ice-cold water. The tide comes in beyond the -ice-foot, and Verhoeff almost swims to the tide-gage, which is now five -inches higher out of the ice. I have been for some time past taking my -watch regularly with the boys, and naturally it interferes somewhat with -the fulness of my night’s rest. At present the night is divided into -three watches, of which I take the first, Verhoeff the second, and Matt -the morning watch. - -Wednesday, June 22. Another week has passed, and by this much my husband -is nearer to his return. Our routine continues unchanged, except in -unimportant details, and the monotony of our life, together with certain -vexations which necessarily arise, makes me at times cross and -despondent. Our Eskimos have been taking advantage of the open leads and -the return of animals to go out on various hunting-expeditions, and they -report more or less success with walrus, white whale, and narwhal. I am -longing for venison, as we have been largely reduced to a seal diet, and -seal is all but nauseating to me. Deer seem to be very difficult to get -at just at present, and Dr. Cook, who returned early Sunday morning from -his hunt at the head of the bay, brought none with him—indeed, no meat -of any kind. - -The first rain of the season took place last Thursday night, and it has -been raining again lightly this evening. Yesterday I took a walk along -the base of the trap-dyke. The snow has disappeared from the plateau, -and the air is fragrant with the spring flowers and mosses, which fairly -cover the ground. Numberless snow-birds are flitting about, chirping to -each other, and the rushing of the brooklets is heard constantly. All -the flowers have returned and all the birds are here again, and they -will stay with us until the middle of September, when I hope that we, -too, shall return south. Altogether the scene reminded me of the time -when Mr. Peary and I came up here last fall, and I gathered flowers -while he pressed them. - -Tuesday, June 28. What a horrible day it has been! The wind blows so -hard that it is almost impossible for me to stand up against it. The -rain dashes against the window until it seems as though it would break -it in. At times the rain changes to snow, while on the cliffs it has -been snowing constantly. They are as white as they have been any time -this winter. Icebergs have been groaning and toppling over all day, and -in the fury of the storm, just after midnight, the tide-gage fell over. -My constant thought is of the advance party. God help them if they are -caught in such a storm on ice that is not suitable for building igloos. -As the days wear on I feel as if the chances were almost even as to -whether I shall ever see my husband again. I can do nothing, not even -keep still. Perhaps it is a good thing that I am obliged to do the work -about the house. - -Our boys have been improving the time by gathering up collections of -various kinds, and the doctor has been especially busy trading for any -and every thing in the way of native clothing, implements, and toys, for -all of which he gives pieces of boards, barrel-staves, boxes, and other -odds and ends in the lumber line, all worthless to us, but invaluable to -the poor Eskimos. Wood is to them their most precious article, for -without it they could neither have boats nor sledges, nor would they be -able to fashion those perfect instruments of the chase, the harpoon and -spear, which they handle with unsurpassed dexterity. Yet wood is also -their scarcest article, and is obtained only from wreckage or through -occasional barter with whalers passing near Cape York. A cargo of lumber -would procure anything from the natives—indeed, almost their entire -possessions. - -Friday, July 1. To-day we narrowly escaped a bad accident. The doctor -accidentally discharged a gun in the big room, where Gibson, Verhoeff, -and Tooky were sitting. Fortunately no one was hurt, the charge going -through the roof, making quite a hole, and badly frightening Matt, who -was lying there. Matt’s foot is improving somewhat, and probably in a -few days his condition will be such that he will be able to get about. -This prospect is gratifying to me, as I have determined to go to the -head of the bay in about three weeks, there to await Mr. Peary’s return, -and I wish to have Matt for my companion. - -Monday, July 4. This evening I was treated to a native vegetable dish. -Returning from a walk to Cape Cleveland, I met Mané and her children -coming to meet me. She told me they eat the little purple flowers which -bloom so abundantly almost everywhere in this vicinity, and asked me to -try them. I found that they were quite as sweet as our clover blossoms, -and they have, besides, a very aromatic flavor. Mané had brought two of -our tin mess-pans with her, and we filled them with blossoms and -sour-grass. On reaching Redcliffe Mané mixed the flowers and sour-grass, -then, pouring a little water on them, put them on the stove. I suggested -that she wash them so as to remove at least some of the sand, at which -she laughed, saying that sand was good for the stomach; nevertheless, -she made a show of washing them, and then let them boil for about -fifteen minutes. The flavor was a peculiarly pleasant one, but I thought -it a little sour, and added some sugar, which gave it something of the -taste of rhubarb-plant stewed, only more aromatic. - -This concoction is the only vegetable dish that these people ever have, -and this is only eaten by the women and children, not by the men. On the -other hand, the men eat the eggs of the different birds, but will not -allow the women to touch them. It was amusing to see both Mané and -M’gipsu eat cake containing eggs, begging us not to tell their husbands, -and consoling themselves with the reflection that eggs did not form the -chief part of the cake. - -Wednesday, July 6. Another sunshiny day. Yesterday morning two Eskimo -boys came in, and reported that a whole troop of natives were at Ittiblu -on their way over from Netchiolumy. They are compelled to go up the gulf -this far in order to cross on the ice above the open water. - -The open water has now nearly reached Redcliffe, and is full of birds. -About five o’clock this morning fourteen natives arrived, among whom are -Mekhtoshay (the one-eyed man) and his wife and boy, and Ingyahpahdu and -his six children. The one-eyed man brought his tent with him, a very -small one, but the others are camping with their neighbors—a privilege -which is generally permitted in traveling. We have taken advantage of -these numerous arrivals to continue our series of ethnological -photographs, and the doctor has been kept busy posing, grouping, etc. -Our settlement now numbers thirty-four natives, men, women, and -children. - -Gibson has started off on a ten days’ collecting-tour to the head of the -bay. He will leave the tent in Tooktoo Valley for me, and I shall go as -soon as he returns, taking provisions enough to last till August 6th. If -Mr. Peary has not returned by that time then I shall come back to the -house and get everything ready for our homeward journey in the early -autumn. - -Thursday, July 7. I determined to take advantage of the fine weather we -are having and get rid of some washing to-day. I also put Noyah, Mané’s -little one, in the tub and gave her a good scrubbing. She actually -looked quite cute, and after getting over her surprise at being plunged -into the water, enjoyed it, laughing and splashing. It seems odd to see -the children so backward. This child, who is already two years old, has -just begun to stand alone, and in all other respects she is like a child -at home of ten months or a year. M’gipsu’s baby is a year old, but in -size and mental development compares with a five-months-old white baby. -To-night we finished taking the photographs and measurements of the -Eskimos. - -Sunday, July 10. The day has been bright, warm, and sunny. At eight -o’clock this morning the thermometer in the sun registered 92° and still -it would be called a cool, pleasant day at home. The doctor tore down -the shed back of my room in order to give the sun a chance to melt the -ice and dry the things under it. - -Ikwa killed an “oogzook” this morning while out in his kayak. It took -three men all day to bring in the skin and part of the carcass. Ikwa -says he has to divide the skin among all the men in the settlement, even -Kyoshu the cripple coming in for a share. It is the rule that every -animal killed, larger than a seal, must be divided among all the men in -the community, regardless of their share in the securing of it. - -Monday, July 11. When I awoke this morning I heard Matt and the doctor -talking very earnestly, but could not hear what they were saying; from -their tone I judged it was something serious. Finally I called to the -doctor and asked him what the trouble was. He told me that Matt had -overheard Kyo and Kulutingwah planning to make away with one of us. I -could not help laughing at this recital, which provoked the doctor a -little; we had laughed at similar stories related by Arctic explorers, -and had agreed that these natives were not at all inclined to be warlike -or vindictive. I tried to reason with the boys. In the first place, if -the natives had any such design, would they not have kept the three men -here who left for Karnah yesterday? Secondly, would they be likely to -come over to our house and discuss their plans? And thirdly, do any of -us know enough of their language to understand a conversation in which -the participants are not even to be seen? The whole thing seemed very -amusing to me, but both boys were evidently frightened, and wanted to be -armed and ready for any emergency; consequently, I gave the doctor Mr. -Peary’s pistol to carry and Matt my large one, and they have worn them -all day. Matt imagined he knew the cause of the whole thing, namely, Kyo -was mad because I had stopped his coffee and bread in the morning; he -had blamed Matt for it, and so Matt felt certain he was to be the -victim. The fact is, however, that Kyo got his coffee as usual this -morning. I had intended to stop it, but as Mané was sick and did not -care for her share, there was enough to go round. The doctor, more than -any one else, has reason to fear Kyo, as Kyo makes no secret of his -dislike for him. - -[Illustration: - - A FRIENDLY “TUPIC” AND ITS INHABITANTS. - - (Looking out of McCormick Bay.) -] - -One year ago to-night was the most miserable night I had ever spent. Mr. -Peary had broken his leg, and for a few hours I did not know whether he -would ever be able to use it again; to-night I do not even know that he -is alive. I feel very certain, however, that a month will solve this -question for me, and so am determined not to worry any more. - -[Illustration] - - - - - CHAPTER XV - MY CAMPING EXPERIENCE IN TOOKTOO VALLEY - - Conclusion of the Murder Scare—A Fifteen-mile Walk along the Arctic - Shore—Matt my Sole Companion—An Arctic Paradise—A Tramp with an - Unpleasant Ending—Twenty-four Hours with Nothing to eat—In the - Shadow of the Ice-cliffs—Fording a Glacial River—Safe in Camp again. - - -Tuesday, July 12. Gibson arrived this morning, minus his sledge and his -entire load, having been obliged to abandon them on account of hard -traveling. He advises me to go to the head of the bay without delay, as -the ice is even now in a bad condition, and each day makes it worse. -Ikwa was on the point of starting with a sledge of provisions and -bedding, and I decided at once that Matt should accompany him. I shall -follow later along the shore. At one P. M. Matt and Ikwa started, with -five dogs, one native sledge, and one toboggan. I fully intended to -leave after supper, but I found so many things to do that I was too -tired to think of walking fifteen miles, and determined to wait until -to-morrow. I gave my room a thorough cleaning, and put down my new -carpet, washed and did up my bed-curtains, and made things as bright and -clean as possible. I hope the little den will look somewhat homelike to -Mr. Peary when he comes back. I am afraid this lovely weather will not -last much longer; but even if it rains I believe I can be as comfortable -in the tent as here at Redcliffe. - -Kyo came in to-night and had a long talk with the doctor about the -doctor’s threatening to shoot the huskies. He is very much frightened at -the doctor’s carrying the revolver. What added to his fright was that we -opened the side window this afternoon, Kyo immediately concluding that -we intended to fire on the natives from it. I am more than ever -convinced that there was nothing in Matt’s “overheard conversation,” and -it is certain that all the Eskimos are badly frightened at the display -of firearms. Kyo said the doctor might shoot the others, but the bullets -would not hurt him; that the “kokoyah” (evil spirit) was kind to him, -and he would never die. But if the white man killed the Innuits the -kokoyah would, at Kyo’s command, “shad-a-go” (destroy) their vessel, and -they would all die. Finally peace was declared, and Kyo brought over his -sealskin float, for which he wanted wood to make the ring of his kayak. -I am sorry for this episode, which has brought about an unpleasantness -with the natives. - -Wednesday, July 13. At 2.30 this afternoon, in company with Dr. Cook, I -left Redcliffe on my fifteen-mile walk to the head of the bay, which we -reached at eight o’clock. Matt and Ikwa, who had preceded us, had a -terrible time in getting through. Half the time they were in water above -their waists, and occasionally they were obliged to float themselves -over on Ikwa’s sealskin float. It was all that Matt could do to persuade -Ikwa to continue. It began to rain about ten P. M., and has rained -lightly ever since. I fear the doctor did not have a pleasant walk back. - -Thursday, July 14. I made a short scout after duck, but saw only a few -eiders far out on the ice. How sweet the air is, and how restful the -rushing of the streams as they make their way to the shore! I feel the -need of rest and quiet, and it is very peaceful here. When the weather -clears I shall enjoy the rambles over the soft green moss, I know. - -[Illustration: - - A Garden Spot.—Greenland Moss and Poppies -] - -Friday, July 15. This morning the sun was shining brightly, and had it -not been for the mosquitos the day would have been thoroughly enjoyable -Matt and I started about nine A. M. to take a look at the country beyond -Boat Camp, but I find it will be impossible to cross the glacial river, -and yet I must get to Tooktoo Camp before long. After lunch I took my -shot-gun and started out in the direction of the hanging glacier, where -there are a number of ponds. In one of these I saw two long-tailed -ducks, but I could only secure one. The breast gives us one meal, and -the rest of the bird stew for another. After supper we took a walk over -the hills toward the glacier. The evening was fine, the air sweet, the -grass and moss soft, and studded with thousands of flowers. In every -direction can be heard either the rushing and roaring of a glacier -river, or the rippling and swishing of some tiny stream. The -snow-buntings and sandpipers are hopping about and chirping merrily, and -the great golden ball is moving slowly along the heavens. The inland ice -seems to wear a continual smile, so bright does its surface appear. Does -it wish to assure me that all is well with the ones who are traveling on -its bosom, or is it only mocking me? I will try to think the former. - -Sunday, July 17. A dull, foggy day. The mosquitos are so thick that it -is all but impossible to venture out. - -Wednesday, July 20. Yesterday at noon the sun was shining brightly, and -there was a light southeast wind, enough to keep the mosquitos quiet, so -I decided to start for the cache back of Tooktoo Camp, in which I wished -to deposit a note and some canned goods. I knew it would be a long tramp -around the intervening lake, but I would be amply repaid if my husband -were to return while I was still here, and find the note, assuring him -of a welcome a few miles beyond. When we reached the mouth of the -glacial stream which discharges into the head of the bay, it was low -tide, and we made an effort to ford it, thinking thereby to save a walk -of five miles. Matt stepped in and I followed. The water felt intensely -cold; it was above my kamik-tops, but not above my knees, and we went -on. When we came to a rock about one fourth of the way over I was -compelled to climb on it and beat my feet and legs; I could not control -them any longer. Then we again plunged into the icy water, which now -reached above my knees. It took us fifteen minutes to cross, and the -temperature of the water was certainly not over 35°, for large and small -pieces of ice were floating about us. The current was in places very -strong, and had it not been for the boathook I had taken with me, on -which to hoist a flag over the cache, I should have been swept off my -feet many times. Once across, and our wet stockings changed for dry -ones, I did not regret having come. We found the cache after some little -trouble, and I deposited the note, also a can of milk, a can of fruit, -some biscuit, and a small flask of brandy, and then put up the flag. - -We retraced our steps past old Tooktoo Camp to the mouth of the river. -Here we found that the tide had already risen a foot, and we continued -our walk along the river-bank toward the head of the lake. On reaching -it we found that it communicated with a second lake by a deep, roaring -torrent, which, although narrower than the river below, was still too -wide and deep to be crossed; so on we went till we reached the end of -the second lake, and here it seemed as if we might walk around it by -climbing along the lower edge of two glaciers, although we were by no -means sure that a raging stream did not sweep down on the other side. -Great rocks were continually rolling from the top of the glaciers, and I -did not think it safe to venture. The scene was an impressive one. Black -cliffs raise their heads over four great white glaciers, smooth as -marble, and at their feet roars a furious torrent, till it merges into a -broad lake, which looks as calm and unruffled as if this stream were -only a drop in its depths. On each side of this stretch of water the -valley is carpeted with soft green moss and yellow poppies, and fairly -alive with the chirping and flitting of birds. We tarried here quite a -while. I could not make up my mind to leave so beautiful a scene; -besides, the only thing left for us to do now was to wait for low tide, -which would be about one A. M., and then ford the river where we had -crossed it in the morning. It was 8.45 P. M. when we again reached the -mouth of the stream. The tide was high, but falling. Had we had -something to eat we should not have minded the waiting. We kept moving -in order to keep warm, until we thought that the tide had reached its -ebb. As we neared the shore we could see no familiar line of rocks which -indicated low tide, and on closer examination we were horrified to find -a “high low tide.” Still we felt we must attempt to cross, and Matt -started in, while I followed at his heels. The first step was over our -knees, the next came mid-thigh on Matt, and then I backed out, for I -knew that we were not near the deepest part yet; besides, the current -was so strong that I could hardly keep my footing. We tried lower down, -but with the same result. Even had we made up our minds to bear the cold -water, we could not possibly have stood up against the current. We then -determined to try it in the lake, but were baffled there as well. By -this time we were pretty well drenched, almost to our waists, and yet -the only thing for us to do was to wait for the noon low tide of the -morrow. We sat down on a rock, took off our stockings and kamiks, and -wrung the water out as best we could, then put them on again. I knew it -would never do for us to sleep, or even sit still in our wet clothes, -for there is always a cool breeze blowing, and the night temperatures -average about 40°; yet the prospect of twelve hours more of tramping, -when we had already tramped twelve and a half hours, with nothing to -eat—we had only had coffee and a cracker before starting—and a cold fog -settling down upon us, was anything but encouraging. I suggested that we -go to the cache, where we had left the brandy and milk for the inland -ice-party, and mix a drink of some of it, and then begin the climb to -Nunatak Cache. This we did. I had my old enemy, the sick-headache, -brought on by lack of food and the excitement, and consequently every -step was agony, yet I knew I must keep on. Thoughts came crowding in -upon me of my husband and my mother. We walked and walked until almost -ready to drop with hunger, fatigue, and lack of sleep; then, as we -climbed above the fog into the warm sunshine, we would sit down a few -minutes, wrapping our heads in our handkerchiefs to keep off the -mosquitos, which swarmed about us. As soon as one of us saw the other -dozing we pushed on again. In this way we climbed through the ravine and -in sight of Nunatak Cache, but it was impossible for me to go farther; -my limbs trembled under me, and refused to act at my bidding. We -returned to the river. At 11.30 this morning the welcome line of rocks -indicating low tide made its appearance, and, to our great relief, we -found that we were able to cross the stream. Two more thankful creatures -never were than we when we found ourselves on dry land on our side of -the “kook” (river) again. We were perfectly numb with cold from -mid-thigh down, and so ran and pounded our feet and limbs for the three -miles that intervened between the river and the tent, which we reached -in an hour. Thus far we feel no ill results from our icy adventure. - -Saturday, July 23. The bay, which has been perfectly clear of ice, -except for a few small bergs near the glacier, is filled again, as a -result of the tide-wind. The white whales, which have been sporting -about for a number of days, are shut out from their playground. I -tramped about nearly all day, but did not get near any game. I never -weary of Tooktoo Valley. To me it is a beautiful spot, with its river -and lakes, its glaciers and mountains, its carpet of soft green moss, -its wealth of flowers, and its busy birds and insects. I have not heard -from Redcliffe since I left there, over a week ago; no information of -any kind has come to me. - - - - - CHAPTER XVI - “OOMIAKSOAK TIGALAY!”—THE SHIP HAS COME! - - An Eskimo Messenger—“Oomiaksoak Tigalay” (the Ship has come)—Letters - from Home—A Visit from Professor Heilprin—Distressing - Possibilities—The “Kite” leaves for Smith Sound—Return of the - “Kite”—Domestic Disturbances among the Natives—An Eskimo Woman and - Girl disappear. - - -Sunday, July 24. At five o’clock this morning, before I was really -awake, I heard a sharp, shrill whistle, different from the notes of the -birds that usually awake me, and before I could quite satisfy myself -that it was not a bird I heard it again, close to the tent, and also a -footstep. “Kiny-ah-una” (who is there), I called. “Awangah, oomiaksoak -tigalay” (me, the ship has come), was the answer. “Angwo” (not so), I -replied. “Shagloo nahme awangah” (me not lie), he said, and with this a -shaggy, black head was thrust into the tent, and a bundle of mail tossed -to me. The next few hours are a blank to me, for I was devouring my -mother’s letter, which took the shape of a journal that she had kept for -me. A few words from Professor Heilprin tell me that he is at Redcliffe -with a party and the old “Kite,” but he does not say who are in the -party. Now if Mr. Peary only gets back safe I shall indeed be happy. All -those dear to me have been spared, while there has been a great deal of -sickness and death everywhere. - -[Illustration: - - ROBERT E. PEARY, U. S. N. -] - -Monday, July 25. This morning the sun came out bright, and he has shone -all day. After looking in vain for the inland ice-party, and also for a -party from the “Kite,” until two P. M., I retired to the tent to escape -the mosquitos. I told Matt he might go down to Redcliffe and see the -“Kite” party if he chose, but he said he did not care for the walk, and -would take the gun and go for a stroll. At 3.30, feeling hungry, I went -out to see if I could see anything of him, in order to know whether I -should cook for one or for two. Away off near the foot of the cliffs I -saw a lone figure, which did not look like Matt, slowly making its way -in the direction of the tent. I soon made out Professor Heilprin. He had -walked fifteen miles to pay me a visit, and we chatted for hours. It did -seem so good to talk with some one again who had been in touch with -civilization. I feel as though I had been in another world. Both mother -and brother urge me to come home, even if Mr. Peary has not returned -from the inland ice by the time the “Kite” is obliged to set sail again -for the sunny south, and the professor says his orders are to “bring -Mrs. Peary back under any circumstances.” While I do not think there is -the slightest doubt that my husband will be here before the latter part -of August, and while I fully believe that if he is not here then he will -never come, yet I could never leave while there was the faintest chance -of his being alive. I told the professor just how I felt about the -matter, and he said, “Well, we will see when the time comes.” My brother -Emil writes that I should have “some consideration for my friends and -relatives.” And what of my husband? He says further, “What good can you -do Bert on the coast while he is on the ice?” Does he suppose that if -Mr. Peary is alive he will stay on the ice the whole year round? And -when he returns and finds he is too late for the “Kite,” will that not -be disappointment enough, without finding that I, too, have deserted -him? I know just how my dear ones at home feel, and I know, too, that -they cannot long for me any more than I long for them. It will go hard -to remain—harder for me than for them, for they will know that I am well -and comfortable; and besides, they have friends and acquaintances, and -intelligent and interesting employments and amusements with which to -occupy their minds and time, while I have only a few white men and some -uncivilized people, together with three months of darkness, to make my -life pleasant. Not a very enviable existence, I am sure. As for cold, -hardship, and hunger, that is nonsense. Of course, if I feel so -inclined, I can go out and sit on an iceberg until I freeze to it, and -let the wind and snow beat upon me, even starve myself; but my tastes do -not run in that direction. - -Tuesday, July 26. The “Kite” leaves to-day for Littleton Island, to be -gone three or four days. When the professor left, at 2.30 A. M., Matt -had not yet returned; I think he must have gone to the “Kite.” - -Wednesday, July 27. Yesterday and to-day were bright, warm days, -although the wind blew quite strong most of the time. Matt returned from -the “Kite” yesterday morning, bringing with him a loaf of nice bread, a -veal cutlet, and a flask of brandy sent by the steward of the “Kite.” -Dr. Cook, with four Eskimos, came up in the “Mary Peary” this morning, -bringing the rest of the mail matter with him. He also brought me more -supplies, but at the same time urges me to return to Redcliffe with him. - -Saturday, July 30. Once more back at Redcliffe. After considering the -matter, I decided that Mr. Peary would wish me to look after things at -our home, and although it was a great disappointment for me to leave -before the return of the ice-party, I was forced to do it. There has -been considerable excitement in our Eskimo settlement. Ikwa has beat -Mané so badly that she cannot come out of her tent; her head is cut and -bruised, and one eye is completely closed. We know of no reason for this -peculiar conduct. Kyo has gone to Igloodahominy in his kayak, the first -time during our visit that an Eskimo has ventured across the bay in a -kayak. While he was out on a seal-hunt early this morning, Klayuh, his -wife, and Tooky, her daughter, ran away. Kyo, it is said, had thrust a -knife in Klayuh’s leg several times, and he has threatened to kill -Tooky. He is now searching for the fugitives, but the whole settlement -has conspired to throw him off the track. He has already been up to the -head of the bay, and down as far as Cape Cleveland. - -The “Kite” returned at nine o’clock yesterday evening, having penetrated -into Smith Sound to a position opposite Force Bay, where it was stopped -by the unbroken pack. Professor Heilprin came ashore immediately after, -and introduced to me some of his companions. Dr. Cook, who had made a -vain attempt to reach Ittiblu, returned at ten P. M. this evening; he -found the gulf impassable owing to the large quantities of loose ice -which had been detached from the glaciers, and literally choked the -basin. - -[Illustration: - - The “Kite” in McCormick Bay. -] - -Thursday, August 4. I have lived through five days more of intense -suspense. The Eskimos console me by talking of Mr. Peary as “sinnypoh” -(dead); one of them yesterday told me that he had dreamt that only one -“kabloona” (white man) would return from the ice. To offset these dark -forebodings, and keep my spirits from sinking too low, I repeat a -paragraph in Mr. Peary’s letter, which says: “I have no doubt I shall be -with you about August 1st, but if there should be a little delay, it -will be _delay only_, and not danger. I have a hundred days’ -provisions.” - -The weather continues exceptionally fine, clear, bright, and warm. -Professor Heilprin, having determined to move his party to the head of -the bay, preparatory to a search on the inland ice, the “Kite” heaved -anchor at nine this morning, and is now lying opposite the point which I -only recently deserted. By the professor’s kind invitation I joined the -“Kite” party, and Matt, who has been my steady guardian since Mr. -Peary’s departure, accompanies me. - -Friday, August 5. The entire relief-party left to-day for Nunatak Cache, -their object being to plant stakes seven miles apart as guide-posts on -the inland ice. I remained on board the “Kite” all day, and shall retire -early, if not to sleep, to rest. - - - - - CHAPTER XVII - RETURN OF THE EXPLORERS - - End of my Weary Waiting—Mr. Peary returns “on Time”—Experiences of the - Inland Ice-party—The Great Greenland Ice-cap—The “Kite” - Aground—Landing through the Surf—Back at Redcliffe—The Natives - regard the Commander and Astrup as Supernatural Beings. - - -Saturday, August 6. From a half-sleep I was roused early this morning by -the plash of oars and loud talking, and before I had fully grasped the -idea that the professor’s party had returned, some one jumped over the -rail on the deck just over my head, and a familiar footstep made its way -hurriedly toward the companionway. I knew it was Mr. Peary, but was -unable to move or make a sound. He came rushing down the stairs and -rattled at my door, calling to me to open it; but I seemed to be -paralyzed, and he forced it open and stood before me, well and hearty, -safe at last. - -Monday, August 8. Back at Redcliffe again, but how different everything -seems! Not only is our whole party once more reunited, but there is the -little “Kite” out in the bay, ready to take us south at any time. - -[Illustration: - - ACROSS THE SNOW DESERT.—FOLLOWING THE GUIDON. -] - -I have been afraid to go to sleep since Mr. Peary’s return, for fear I -might wake up and find it all a dream; besides, we had so much to tell -each other that there was no time or inclination for sleep. Mr. Peary -recounted to me the events of his journey; how after he sent Mr. Gibson -and Dr. Cook back to Redcliffe from the Humboldt Glacier, May 24th, he -and Astrup marched on day after day, with their magnificent team of -Eskimo dogs, which Astrup learned to handle as well as a native driver. - -[Illustration: - - The First Musk-ox. -] - -They encountered storms which kept them buried in the snow for days at a -time, but their worst enemies were the snow-arched crevasses which they -met just before reaching the latitude of Sherard Osborne Fjord. These -arches were so treacherous that more than once they were on them before -they were aware of it, and old Lion came very near ending his journey by -breaking through one of them and being precipitated the full length of -his trace into the yawning chasm. Fortunately the trace was strong -enough to hold his weight, and he was pulled up none the worse for his -tumble. The loss of a single animal would have been a calamity to the -party. - -[Illustration: - - Cairn on Navy Cliff. - - Lat. 81° 37′. -] - -On July 1st Mr. Peary saw the loom of land ahead, and thinking it only -one of the west-coast mountains, changed his course to northeast, and -then to east, hoping to be able to round it; but after a few days’ -further travel he saw the land still ahead, and then found that it was -the northern boundary of Greenland. He now decided to leave his sledges -and supplies at the edge of a moraine, and, with a few days’ rations, -start overland toward the coast. They had not gone far when they came -across unmistakable signs of musk-oxen, and then upon the animals -themselves, grazing in a little valley. A few shots from Mr. Peary’s -rifle brought down two of them. Then a little baby musk-ox came peering -around a great boulder to learn the cause of all the noise and -commotion. This was captured alive, but the poor little thing did not -survive its mother very long. Mr. Peary camped in this lovely valley, -and there feasted his dogs on fresh meat. - -These noble brutes, accustomed all their lives to raw, bloody meat, had -been living on dry pemmican for the past two months, working day after -day as they had never worked continuously before. No wonder they -strained at their traces, plunging and tugging to get loose and help -themselves. As quickly as one of the musk-oxen was skinned the body was -tossed within their reach, and they pounced upon it with a greediness -which plainly showed how much they longed for the juicy meat. The -explorers themselves also enjoyed the fresh meat for a change, but they -were glad to get back to pemmican again after a few days. - -After the dogs had been fed and rested, the march across the -boulder-strewn country toward the coast was resumed. It ended July 4th, -when the party came out on a bluff on the east coast, some 3800 feet -high, which overlooked the great unknown Arctic Ocean. Here a couple of -days were spent in making observations for latitude and longitude, in -taking photographs of the surrounding country, and in building a cairn -in which to deposit the record of their journey, and then the return -march was begun. McCormick Bay was reached on August 6th, after an -absence of ninety-three days, during which time Mr. Peary says neither -he nor Astrup had an ache or a pain. - -[Illustration: - - Looking down over the Arctic Ocean. -] - -Late yesterday afternoon a brisk wind blew up that made the surf fly and -prevented any of us from going ashore. As Professor Heilprin was anxious -to examine some of the great glaciers, it was decided that the “Kite” -remain at her present anchorage until after he had made his examinations -the next day. This morning, however, the wind was still blowing, and -although an attempt was made to land a boat, it had to be abandoned; -Captain Pike, too, was desirous to get the “Kite” down the bay before -she was blown on the rocks. Indeed, this was necessary, as the vessel -had already had her nose stuck in the mudbank, and it had seemed for a -time that she was in a precarious position. Fortunately we escaped with -the loss of only about eleven feet of the vessel’s “shoe.” The incident -was by no means pleasing, and we all felt relieved when the vessel again -rode a straight keel. For hours we drifted about, hoping the wind would -go down, but finally we headed down the bay. It was impossible to swing -the vessel inshore opposite Redcliffe, and we were obliged to pass our -home and continue to Cape Cleveland. Here again we could find no -sheltered nook where it would be safe to land a boat, and we sailed back -and forth until late in the afternoon, when the captain thought that we -might land in the lee of the great cliffs just east of Cape Cleveland. -The boat was put in charge of the second mate, who, with the three -strongest sailors, pulled Mr. Peary, Astrup, and myself to the shore, a -distance of perhaps half a mile. We got along well in spite of the great -billows until we reached the shore, where, before we could make a -landing, two waves in rapid succession broke over our boat, almost -filling it with water, and nearly swamping us. I was completely -drenched. - -Just before reaching Cripple Point we were met by Dr. Cook, Verhoeff, -and Gibson, anxious to greet the inland ice-party, of whose return they -had been apprised by Matt. It was very curious to watch the expressions -on the faces of the natives, who stood in groups about Redcliffe House -staring at Mr. Peary and Astrup as they approached. When they were -spoken to they answered in low, frightened tones, and they could not be -induced to come forward and shake hands, or in any way come in contact -with the two, until they were convinced that they were really human -beings, and not great spirits come down from the ice-cap. Then they were -very anxious to know if Mr. Peary had seen the spirits of the departed -Eskimos, what they lived on, how they looked, and all about them. They -were very much surprised not only to see the dogs return alive, but to -see them in much better condition than when they left, as they had -repeatedly said the Americans did not know how to feed the Eskimo dog, -and he would soon starve under their treatment. Now they have perfect -confidence in Mr. Peary, and say they would go anywhere with him, even -on the ice-cap, because they do not believe he would let the evil spirit -harm them. - -[Illustration: - - Astrup’s Musk-lamb. -] - -Mr. Peary has decided to start on a trip up Inglefield Gulf to-morrow. -His purpose is to verify some of the observations made by us on our -April sledge trip, to take photographs of the landscape in its summer -dress, and to secure ethnological specimens at Karnah and Nunatochsoah -that were promised us by the natives of those places. We expect to -return within a week, and then everything will be put on board the good -ship “Kite,” and we shall bid adieu to our Arctic home and the dear old -huskies, who, even if they are not particularly clean, have been our -faithful friends, and will, I am sure, never forget us. - -[Illustration: - - IN MUSK-OX LAND BEYOND THE ICE-CAP. -] - - - - - CHAPTER XVIII - BOAT JOURNEY INTO INGLEFIELD GULF - - The Sculptured Cliffs of Karnah—Luxuriant Vegetation—Stormy - Weather—Anniversary Camp—My Kahlillowah—Crossing the Gulf in a - Tempest—The Shelter of Academy Bay—Fury of the Arctic Winds—An - Iceberg Breakwater—We reach Karnah again—Rounding Cape - Cleveland—Fighting for Life and Shelter—Safe at Redcliffe. - - -The weather was not very encouraging as we started from Redcliffe House -on Tuesday, August 9, the strong wind of the two previous days having -brought up heavy storm-clouds, which now hid the sun and hung -threateningly overhead. It was just about noon when we left the beach at -Redcliffe, the light “Mary Peary” shooting rapidly along with the -strokes of the six Eskimo boatmen, and in a short time we had rounded -Cape Cleveland and started eastward up the gulf. The scene before us was -very different from what it had been ten months previously, when we made -our first attempt. There were then numerous pans and streams of ice, -with the new ice rapidly cementing them together; the land itself was -covered with snow, and the ice-foot had already commenced to form on the -beach. Now there was only an occasional fragment of ice, though the -great bergs were numerous. The mountains of the shore were rich with the -warm hues of summer. Late in the afternoon a favoring wind came up from -the west, and with foresail hoisted we moved merrily along before it. -Relieved thus from their labors, our crew lounged contentedly upon the -seats, and fell into a conversational mood. Mr. Peary learned from them -that many years ago Mekhtoshay had shot an “amarok,” or wolf, at -Netchiolumy, and that Panikpah had killed one at Nerki; Koomenahpik and -Mekhtoshay, who are brothers, also related that years ago they had both -seen “oomingmuk” (musk-oxen), “awahne, awahne, Etah” (far beyond Etah). - -At half-past six in the evening we reached Karnah, a small Eskimo -settlement on the north shore of the sound, some twenty miles from Cape -Cleveland. Here the low, flat shore ends, and a line of towering gray -cliffs begins. We pitched our tent on a level bit of grass among the -stones, and after our evening meal was completed we crossed the noisy -glacial stream flowing near the village, climbed the hill just west of -it, and then followed the shore westward till we came to the stone -igloos of Karnah the deserted. Four houses form this village, which lies -in the center of a beautiful grassy meadow, stretching back from the -shore to the foot of the brown mountains. The luxuriance of the grass -here was wonderful. All across the meadow we waded through it, literally -knee-deep, and in one or two places immediately about the igloos it was -so rank that as I stooped to gather some sprays for pressing I was -almost hidden. Returning to our tent, we were soon lulled to sleep by -the boisterous music of the glacial stream. During the night it snowed -lightly, and when we awoke the ground was covered with a white mantle, -which, however, soon disappeared. - -Leaving Karnah on the morning of the 10th, for three or four hours we -threaded our way through bergs and great cakes of blue ice, past the -giant cliffs of Karnah, with their great bastions, towers, chimneys, and -statues, carved by the Arctic storms from the gray sandstone, the -breeding places of black guillemots, burgomaster gulls, and white -falcons. As we passed along our Eskimo boatmen pointed out to us the -striking figures, all of heroic size, looming against the sky far up the -cliffs, and told us that such and such a one was a woman, and such -another a man, and that the cliffs themselves were known as “innuchen” -(statue rocks). There would be wide scope here for the imaginative -genius who has given the nomenclature to the rocks in the Garden of the -Gods. All this time it was raining in fierce showers, and we rounded the -point of the bay east of Karnah in the face of one of them. A number of -deer were seen quietly grazing in the valleys. A fresh wind came up from -the south, and we went dashing up the bay, with the foam flying from the -bow of the boat, and a boiling white wake behind us. We landed on a -sandy beach near the head of the bay. While the tent was being pitched -and the boat hauled out of the water a school of white whales -(“kahkoktah”) came puffing and sporting into the cove, and Koomenahpik -immediately went out in his kayak, which we had in tow, after them. He -remained out for an hour, but as the result of cautiousness, either on -his part or on the part of the whales, he did not succeed in getting -near enough to use his harpoon, and returned unsuccessful. The view from -our camp was very impressive. Facing us, and forming nearly a -semicircle, was a great glacier; just across the cove a great nunatak -reared its brown mass above the ice, and everywhere the cliffs were of a -warm red and brown coloring, a marked contrast to the wintry shores of -Herbert and Northumberland islands, and to the chilly, gray sandstone -cliffs of Karnah. Our tent was pitched just above high-water mark beside -a little stream whose banks were actually yellow with Arctic poppies. - -[Illustration: - - Pillar of Sandstone. -] - -The heavy showers continued through the night, and we waited until noon -of the 11th for them to cease. Verhoeff was out after specimens until -after midnight, and then, returning, slept in the boat. He left us at -this point to join Gibson in Tooktoo Valley. Crossing over to the -eastern side of the bay, we found a beautiful rock-protected cove, with -a stream flowing into it from a valley above. While Mr. Peary climbed to -the top of a rock to obtain some bearings, I took my rifle and started -up the valley in search of deer. In a short time I had shot two. One of -them I brought down at long range while he was running at full speed. As -this day was the anniversary of our wedding, we celebrated it mildly -with a milk-punch and fried liver from the deer which I had shot. Here, -midway between the Arctic Circle and the Pole, we were in a veritable -garden spot. Vines and plants and flowers run and grow in luxuriant -abundance over and in the crevices of the rocks. The stream which -empties into the cove comes from a beautiful mirror-like lake set in a -grassy meadow only a short distance up the valley, and over the -protecting ledge to the west come the continuous thunder and groanings -of the great glacier. - -Continuing our exploration, we arrived, through wind, snow, and rain, at -the precipitous island which lies near the eastern extremity of the -gulf. Here, in the angle of the island and a huge glacier, in which it -was partially buried, we pitched the tent, though not without protest -from the natives, who said that the waves from an iceberg breaking off -the glacier might smash the boat and swamp the camp. While we were at -dinner Koomenahpik raised the alarm of “kahlillowah,” and looking out we -saw two narwhal among the bergs, a large one and a small one. We -immediately pulled out for the animals. As we approached, the larger of -the two disappeared, but we were able to get near enough to the other -one for me to put a bullet through its head; then Koomenahpik drove a -harpoon into its back, and after a short struggle we had it in tow for -the camp. The next morning we found my prize high and dry on the rocks, -a great mottled, misshapen mass of flesh, with a gleaming ivory horn, -straight as an arrow, and almost as sharp as a stiletto, projecting -straight out from its nose. It was a wonderful sight to me, who never -before had seen the narwhal, the fabled ancestor of the unicorn. I could -not gaze at it sufficiently. - -[Illustration: - - THE MELVILLE GLACIER—INGLEFIELD GULF. -] - -When we started off again, in the afternoon of August 14th, our boat was -loaded down almost to the gunwales with our trophies of narwhal and -reindeer, the tents, and other equipment. The morning’s promise of -pleasant weather had not been fulfilled. Heavy black clouds were -gathering thick and fast, and by the time we had reached the southern -end of the island it was raining steadily. As we ran out from the lee of -the island the full force of the now furious northeast gale struck us, -and we were pelted mercilessly with sheets of water. It was a wild -scene, with the sullen, spectral glare of the great glaciers north and -east of us beneath the pall of black clouds, the wind howling over us as -if it would pick us bodily out of the water, and the black cliffs at the -mouth of Academy Bay, our destination, mere shadows, felt rather than -seen through the rain full twenty miles to the south. The gulf was full -of great bergs and masses of hard blue ice, the outflow from the -glaciers, through the mazes of which we were obliged to pick our way; -yet they were our friends, for they kept the water smooth in spite of -the raging wind, and gave us now and then a shelter, behind which we -could stop for a few moments and catch our breath before striking out -again into the furious blast. Fortunately, the wind was partly in our -favor; in spite of our tortuous course we made rapid progress, and in -four hours were abreast of the group of islands down in the southeast -corner of the gulf, which we had visited in April during our sledge -trip. From here to Tawanah’s igloo at the month of the bay was the -critical part of our voyage. This distance was entirely free of ice, and -though only five or six miles in width, the force of the wind was such -that the whitecaps were rushing madly across it as we came out from -under the shelter of the islands. With just a bit of the foresail up to -enable the boat to run away from the waves, and two oars ready to be -dropped instantly into the rowlocks, in case of necessity, we dashed -madly along, with every now and then the top of a wave coming in over -the stern of the boat, and striking Mr. Peary and myself in the back -with a resounding whack. More than once my teeth involuntarily closed -more firmly as I saw a mad white crest rushing down upon us, but our -little craft rode the waves like a duck, and we finally shot under the -lee of the point at Tawanah’s igloo. As the boat sped along through the -placid water and the sail flapped against the mast in the eddy of wind -under the point, every one breathed a sigh of relief. - -In spite of the fury of the storm out in the gulf, here in the bay under -the steep shore everything was calm and quiet. The mast and sail were -taken down and the oars run out, and our native crew settled down to -work again, glad to warm themselves by exercise. Suddenly, however, the -wind, with the perverseness common to winds in these Arctic regions, -came rushing out of the bay, meeting us full in the face, and making it -almost impossible for the men to make head against it. But Mr. Peary -spurred them on, and by hugging the shore we succeeded, with the aid of -the tide, in reaching a little island about half-way up the bay, -opposite which, despite the high waves, we effected a landing. We had -the utmost difficulty in setting up our tent, but we at last got the -better of the hurricane by securing the bottom of the tent all around -with huge stones. - -Never before had I understood the power of the wind. To add to its -terrifying effect, it did not blow steadily now, as when it first -commenced, but came in frightful gusts with intervals of calm between. -For perhaps a minute or two it would be absolutely still, the black -cliffs across the bay would loom up in perfect distinctness, and every -intonation of the waves, dashing upon the rocks, could be heard; then a -rushing white wall would spring into view around the bend of the bay a -mile or so above us, an ominous murmur would be heard, rapidly -increasing in volume and intensity, until, with a roar, the Arctic blast -was upon us, literally cutting the tops off the waves and hurling them -in solid masses of water far up the cliffs. The icebergs went tearing -out of the bay like ships in a ten-knot breeze. A number of these bergs -sailed in toward our little island, and, grounding at the upper end of -the channel, formed a complete breakwater. When the wild gusts struck -these great bergs they rocked and groaned, flung themselves at each -other with thunderous crash, reeling backward shattered and split from -the shock, while all the time the waves dashed against their outer -faces, climbed in white jets clear to their tops, and fell in -intermittent cataracts into the waters of our little harbor. It seemed -as if we were at the very gates of the Hyperborean Inferno. All night -long this struggle continued, the flying spray from the iceberg -breakwater dashing against the tent, drenching it and all its contents. -Mr. Peary and Matt spent the greater part of the night in holding up the -tent-poles. - -By morning the storm had exhausted its fury, and we were on our journey -once more. But heavy weather soon set in again, and a disagreeable -drizzle continued throughout the night and the greater part of the -following day. We made a bee-line diagonally across the gulf to Karnah, -the castellated cliffs of which could just be discerned through the gray -mist which hung low over the water. Head winds and a contrary flood-tide -made our progress slow, and it was only after a long and weary day of -hard work for the men at the oars, and of wet and cold and cramp for -those in the stern of the boat, that we touched the northern shore a few -miles above Karnah, where we gladly availed ourselves of the opportunity -to jump out and stretch our stiffened limbs. It was our intention to -camp here for the night, but after the refreshing effects of a hot -dinner, with ample draughts of tea, every one felt so much better, -although thoroughly tired out, that we determined to push on to -Redcliffe. As we neared Cape Cleveland the wind blew a gale, but now, -for the first time, it was in our favor, and Mr. Peary ordered up both -sails. Under Matt’s skilful guidance we went flying past the cliffs for -the mouth of McCormick Bay, dodging the hard blue lumps of ice, some of -which could not be seen until we were almost upon them, frightening a -herd of walrus into which we dashed unexpectedly, and then at last -whirled round the point at Cape Cleveland into an eddy of quiet wind and -water. Scarcely had we rounded the Cape, however, when Mr. Peary’s eye -saw another one of those white squalls rushing down upon us from Tooktoo -Valley, and there was just time to get the masts and sails down, and the -men to the oars with feet braced against the seats and backs straining -to the bending ash-blades, when the squall was upon us. The wind tore -off the tops of the waves and dashed them in our faces until it was -impossible to see. When the gusts were at their height the men could -only hold their own and prevent the boat from being blown backward out -into the sound, while in the intervals between they managed to gain a -little, and in this way we crept along inch by inch toward the sheltered -beach on which we had landed from the “Kite” a week before. Suddenly, -just as we came abreast of the place where a still remaining portion of -the ice-foot formed an ugly overhanging shelf, under which the waves -broke furiously, Kulutingwah’s oar snapped short off, and Kulutingwah -himself, with a wild cry, pitched backward into the bottom of the boat. -In the momentary confusion which followed, the boat began drifting -rapidly under the shelf, when Mr. Peary seized the oar of the man -nearest him and urged every one to his utmost, at the same time shouting -to Kulutingwah to jump for the bow of the boat and throw the grapnel -out. With understanding quickened by fear, the Eskimo carried out the -order almost as soon as it was uttered, and with all still tugging at -the oars to ease the strain upon the anchor-rope, the boat settled -slowly back inch by inch, until finally she stopped so near the wicked -blue shelf of ice that I could touch it with my hand. This respite gave -us a chance to recover our breath, and enabled Mr. Peary to make a -change in the disposition of the men. In the intervals between the gusts -the oars slowly and painfully worked the boat ahead, and before the next -squall struck us the grapnel was thrown over, and every one crouched low -in the boat, to present as little surface as possible to the wind. In -this way, with the woman Armah crying and screaming in the bottom of the -boat, and the faces of the men a dingy white, we at last reached the -coveted beach. So deafening was the roar of the wind that we could -hardly hear each other’s voices. Leaving Kulutingwah to watch the boat, -we made our way to Redcliffe. - - - - - CHAPTER XIX - FAREWELL TO GREENLAND - - Alarm about Mr. Verhoeff—A Search Instituted—Alone with Matt and the - Native Women—No News—Return of the Search-parties—Poor - Verhoeff—Packing up—I play Lady Bountiful—Pennsylvania’s Gifts to - the Natives—Farewell to Redcliffe—Fossil-hunting at - Atanekerdluk—Godhavn revisited—Godthaab—Eskimo Kayakers—Fire-swept - St. John’s—Arrival at Philadelphia—Home again. - - -Thursday, August 18. When we rejoined our men at midnight we learned -from Dr. Cook that Verhoeff, who left us at Bowdoin Bay, had not yet -returned, and that Gibson and Mr. Bryant, the second in command of -Professor Heilprin’s party, were in Five-Glacier Valley searching for -him. Verhoeff, after having joined Gibson, left him at the valley for a -further search after minerals, and his last words were, “If I am not -here don’t be worried; I may be gone till Tuesday or Wednesday.” - -Before retiring Mr. Peary sent a note on board the “Kite,” informing -Professor Heilprin of our return, and stating that we should be ready to -say farewell to Redcliffe the next day. Soon after breakfast this -morning Mr. Peary began getting the boxes and barrels of specimens ready -for shipment, while I took charge of the household effects, provisions, -etc. While we were thus occupied our boat was seen coming from -Five-Glacier Valley. When it had approached near enough for us to -distinguish the occupants, we saw there were only two white men in -it—Gibson and Mr. Bryant. Gibson told us that they had waited at the -appointed place until their provisions gave out, and then had taken a -scout up the valley for some distance, but had seen no sign of Verhoeff. -They left a note for him, intending to return for a further search. - -We now began to feel grave apprehensions regarding the missing man, and -a vigorous search was immediately determined upon. Mr. Peary set to work -to provision the boat; then, summoning about him all the native men, who -are as expert as our Indians in following a trail, he told them that -they must go with him to Five-Glacier Valley and look for Verhoeff, -promising a rifle and ammunition to the man who should first discover -him. Professor Heilprin then suggested that while Mr. Peary and his men -went up McCormick Bay to the mouth of the valley, he and his party -should go round in the “Kite” to the head of the valley in Robertson -Bay; and it was so decided, and the Eskimos were divided between the two -parties. I remained at Redcliffe with Matt and the native women and -children. - -At two o’clock the search-parties left, and I turned my attention once -more to packing. The women stood around me, devoured with curiosity as -to what I would do with all these things, and plying me with questions -as to whose husband would win the coveted prize. They would not believe -that I did not know, because I had known that Mr. Peary and Astrup would -return from the inland ice. - -Friday, August 19. The day is not a promising one; dark clouds are -gathering and the air seems oppressive. I trust that the search-parties -will find Mr. Verhoeff to-day, for he must be running short of -provisions by this time. We calculated that what he had could by -economizing be made to last him through Wednesday, and to-day is Friday. -There is no sign of boat or ship. - -Most of our provisions are stowed away on the “Kite,” among them all the -fresh meat; in the excitement we forgot to get any out for our use, and -to-day we are living on crackers and coffee. - -Sunday, August 21. When this morning’s fog lifted at noon, the “Kite” -was seen off Five-Glacier Valley. All day yesterday we watched for her -and waited for some news, but heard and saw nothing. Seeing the vessel, -I supposed of course that Verhoeff had been found, and the “Kite” had -gone round to the valley to pick up the rest of the party. - -After hours of watching we saw the “Kite” get up steam and head down the -bay toward Redcliffe, and late in the afternoon she stopped opposite our -house, and the professor came off to me in a boat, only to bring the -distressing news that nothing had been seen or heard of Verhoeff. Mr. -Peary was then exploring the shore from the mouth of the valley around -Cairn Point to the head of Robertson Bay, where it was intended that the -“Kite” should join him. Another party were making thorough search -through the valley. After leaving me some provisions the “Kite” -continued on her way to Robertson Bay. - -Tuesday, August 23. We have had no tidings from the search-parties since -the “Kite” left us Sunday evening. I am very much afraid that we shall -never see our lost companion alive again. The weather since he has been -in the field has been exceptionally cold, raw, and wet, and he was -clothed very lightly; besides, his food must have given out some days -ago. The natives all agree that no one could have slept without shelter -in the furious gales which we have had lately, clothed as lightly as -Verhoeff was; and as they have the experience which we lack, I cannot -help feeling that there is truth in what they say, so to-night I go to -bed with a heavy heart. With the dark winter night passed in safety and -comfort, and the long sledge journey accomplished successfully, it seems -sad indeed that we should now, on the eve of our departure, meet with so -great a loss. - -Wednesday, August 24. About two o’clock this morning Mané came running -in to me with the news that the ship was coming, and I at once went out -on the beach to await her. In half an hour she dropped anchor, and Mr. -Peary, with the other members of our party, came ashore bringing the sad -tidings that Verhoeff’s footprints had been found and traced upon a -great glacier which was cut by numberless wicked-looking crevasses, and -there lost. After searching the glacier in every direction without -success, there was no doubt left that poor Verhoeff had lost his life in -an effort to cross the ice-stream. Mr. Peary cached enough provisions to -last one man a year, at Cairn Point, in case Verhoeff should, in some -miraculous way, return after the “Kite’s” departure. - -It was with a feeling akin to homesickness that I took the pictures and -ornaments from the walls of our little room, pulled down the curtains -from the windows and bed, had Matt pack the books and nail them up, -sorted the things on the bed, and packed those I wanted to keep. The -tins and cooking utensils I put on the stone and turf wall just outside -of my room previous to distributing them among the natives. - -My trunk packed and removed, the carpet up and the curtains down, the -improvised bookcase taken to pieces, and it was hard to imagine that -this dismantled room had once been as snug and comfortable as any -boudoir in the world. Could the walls talk they would tell of some very -pleasant hours spent there by the members of the North Greenland -Expedition of 1891–92, and of many months of real solid comfort and -happiness enjoyed by the woman who, when she left home and friends, was -told over and over again that she must expect to endure all kinds of -hardships, to suffer agony from that dreaded Arctic enemy, scurvy, etc. - -[Illustration: - - Receiving Gifts of Charity. -] - -I next turned my attention to the various articles put aside for the -Eskimos, and after sorting them over I called all the women in the -settlement to me, and stood them in a row. There were nine among them, -including the two brides (mere children), Tookymingwah, wife of Kookoo, -and Tungwingwah, wife of Kulutingwah. When they had grasped the idea -that I was about to present them with these things they fairly danced -with joy, shouting to their husbands, and laughing and talking with each -other. I took care that Mané and M’gipsu, who had been with us -constantly sewing and curing skins, should have the more desirable -articles, while the others shared equally. After the distribution the -professor, with a few members of his party, rowed off to the “Kite,” and -in a short time returned with their boat laden with pots, kettles, -knives, scissors, thimbles, and needles for the women, and long -ash-poles, timber cut suitable for kayaks, lances, saws, gimlets, -knives, etc.—in fact, everything in the hardware and lumber line that -could be of any possible use to the men. Then all the natives were -collected on the beach and the different articles distributed among -them. I know if the good Pennsylvanians who sent these gifts could have -seen the pleasure these poor natives derived from them they would have -felt amply repaid. - -We spent a couple of hours in taking photographs of the natives, their -tupics, our poor little abandoned house and its surroundings, and then -bade farewell to Redcliffe. It had been my home for thirteen months—some -of them had seemed more than twice as long as any ordinary month—and I -felt sorry to leave it to the mercy of wind and weather and Eskimo. Mané -asked me if she might pitch her tupic in my room, saying it would be so -nice and dry, and the wind could not strike it and blow it over; then, -too, no matter how cold it might be, her ikkimer would be sufficient to -heat it comfortably. I told her she might do so, but she must take good -care of the house and not allow others to destroy anything about it, -until the return of the next sun, when, if we did not come back, it -should belong to Ikwa and herself to do with as they wished. - -It was about noon when I left the settlement with the last boat-load, -and as soon as we were safely on board the “Kite” the work of raising -the anchor was begun. In the meantime Ikwa and Kyo in their kayaks were -paddling round and round the “Kite,” calling to us their last good-byes. -Ikwa asked if he might come aboard just once more, and on permission -being granted, he immediately climbed over the side and jumped on deck. -Some one took a fancy to his kayak paddle, which had been broken and -mended, as only an Eskimo can mend, in at least a dozen different -places, and gave him an old sledge-runner for it. When the time came for -the Old Pirate to leave us all of us felt badly, and when he said -“Gooby,” with his peculiar accent, his eyes filled and he choked. After -this he would not turn his head in our direction, and only waved his -hand in answer to our good-byes. His picture, as he paddled himself with -the sledge-runner, curved at both ends, to the shore, will never fade -from my memory. - -As the “Kite” steamed slowly down the bay the natives ran along the -beach, shouting to us and waving their hands, Kulutingwah bringing up -the rear with a torn American flag attached to a pole, which he waved -frantically to the imminent danger of those near him. I could not help -thinking, Have these poor ignorant people, who are absolutely isolated -from the rest of humanity, really benefited by their intercourse with -us, or have we only opened their eyes to their destitute condition? I -hope the latter is not the case, for a happier, merrier set of people I -have never seen; no thought beyond the present, and no care beyond that -of getting enough to eat and to wear. As we steamed down the bay we -turned our eyes on the red cliffs, and when they faded from view Cape -Cleveland and Herbert and Northumberland Islands were the only familiar -landmarks left in sight. On these we gazed with the feeling that we were -looking our last upon the scene. The old Cape, especially, seemed very -near and dear to me; twice it had sheltered and protected me from the -fury of an Arctic gale—once in the winter when Mr. Peary and the doctor -had gone to rescue “Jack,” my pet Newfoundland, from its precipitous -cliffs, and the second time only a few days ago, when we returned from -our venturesome boat journey up Inglefield Gulf. - - -Our home journey was almost wholly devoid of incident. Melville Bay, -smooth as glass, had lost its terrors, and we steamed through it almost -without hindrance. We reached Atanekerdluk, in the Waigatt, on August -29th, and there spent a delightful and profitable day in collecting -fossils among the “leaf beds” which have been made famous to geologists. -The following morning we arrived at Godhavn, where once more we enjoyed -the kind hospitality of Inspector and Mrs. Anderssen, and the pleasing -attentions of a daughter who had only recently returned from Denmark. -The same friendly reception awaited us at Godthaab, the capital of the -Southern Inspectorate of Greenland, where the honors of hospitality were -divided between Inspector and Mrs. Fencker and Governor and Mrs. -Baumann. It was here that Nansen descended from the ice-cap after his -memorable journey across the Land of Desolation and passed a long, weary -winter of waiting. - -[Illustration: - - SADDLE MOUNTAIN.—GODTHAAB. -] - -The Eskimos of this region have the reputation of being the most expert -kayakers in the whole of Greenland, and we were witness to some of their -most remarkable feats, such as describing a complete revolution through -the water, and crossing one another at right angles, one canoe shooting -over the bow of the other. These performances, which are said to have -been at one time common with all the west-coast Eskimos, are rapidly -becoming a lost art, and it has even been doubted if they took place at -all. - -[Illustration: - - Sports of the Kayakers.—Overturning. -] - -[Illustration: - - Kayaker Overturned. -] - -Our kind friends were so pressing in their attentions that it was not -without regret that we were forced to bid adieu to their hospitable -homes and a last farewell to the Greenland shores. After a rather -tempestuous voyage we arrived at St. John’s, Newfoundland, on September -11th, to find a scene of desolation, and wreck and ruin running in the -path of the recent conflagration. The fire had broken out two days after -the departure of the “Kite” on her last mission of good-will, and this -was the first intimation that any of us had had of the catastrophe. -Shaping our course southward, we arrived, after an uneventful voyage, at -our port of destination, Philadelphia, where on the 24th, amid a chorus -of cheers and hurrahs, and the tooting of innumerable horns and -whistles, we received the congratulations of the multitude that had -assembled to await our arrival. - -I returned in the best of health, much stronger than when I left sixteen -months before. The journey was a thoroughly enjoyable one. There were -some drawbacks, it is true, but we meet with them everywhere, and were -it not for the sad loss of Mr. Verhoeff, I should not have a single -regret. - - - - - CHAPTER XX - GREENLAND REVISITED - - Along the Labrador Coast—Strange Passengers on the - “Falcon”—Holsteinborg and Godhavn—The Quickest Passage of Melville - Bay—Meeting with Old Friends—No Tidings of Verhoeff—Establishing - Ourselves at Bowdoin Bay—Deaths among the Eskimos—A Rich Walrus - Hunt—Smith Sound and the Northern Ice-pack—Polaris House—Departure - of the “Falcon.” - - -Anniversary Lodge, Bowdoin Bay, Greenland, August 20, 1893. The reader -who has followed me through my Arctic experiences of 1891–92 may be -interested to know how we found our Eskimo friends upon our return to -them after an absence of nearly a year. - -On July 8 the steamship “Falcon,” carrying north the members of Mr. -Peary’s new Arctic expedition, left Portland, and headed for St. John’s, -where we landed on the 13th. We had with us a conglomerate cargo, -including, in addition to the ordinary paraphernalia of an Arctic -expedition, eight little Mexican burros or donkeys, two St. Bernard -dogs, the Eskimo dogs which Mr. Peary had brought down from Greenland, -and numerous homing pigeons, kindly presented to us by friends -interested in the expedition. At St. John’s we added a few Newfoundland -dogs, and then proceeded north along the Labrador coast, touching at -several of the missionary stations, where we obtained about thirty dogs -from the Eskimos. It was a pitiable sight to see how famished these poor -Moravian missionaries were for news from the old as well as the new -country. They have direct mail communication with Europe only once a -year. - -I was told that although they have only three months in the year when -frost is out of the ground, yet they all cultivate small gardens, and -the most delicious dish of stewed rhubarb that I ever tasted was -prepared from a bundle sent to me by one of the missionaries. It was -interesting to note that while the appearance of the Labrador Eskimos is -very similar to that of the natives of South Greenland, yet their mode -of dress is different in both pattern and material. The undershirts, -instead of being made of the skins of birds, are made of blanketing, and -instead of being the same length back and front, are fashioned with a -long tail; over this is worn a garment of the same pattern, made of -drilling. The trousers are also of woven material. Of course this was -their summer costume. The women all wore blanket skirts, and had woolen -shawls about their shoulders. - -After following the coast of Labrador for ten days, we headed across -Davis Strait for Holsteinborg, on the Greenland shore. It took us about -twelve hours to steam through the stream of ice which was flowing -southward, but only once did the “Falcon” have to go astern in order to -move a pan of ice and make a passageway for herself. Steadily she -steamed on, butting against the cakes and floes until her timbers -quivered and creaked. At last we were in clear water again, and then our -vessel fairly bounded over the waves. - -Arrived at Holsteinborg, we found a pretty, clean little village. There -are more wooden houses here than at Godhavn, and altogether the place -looks more thrifty. We found the governor absent, but the assistant -governor, a young Danish officer who spoke a little English, did the -honors, and he procured twenty-three dogs from the natives for us. Among -other attentions, he sent to me a basket of radishes, fresh from his -garden. - -Business completed, the “Falcon” steamed north for Godhavn. On our -arrival at this little hamlet we found everything apparently unchanged, -but, to our great disappointment, our pilot informed us that Inspector -Anderssen was absent on a tour of inspection, accompanied by his -daughter, and that Governor Joergensen and family had gone to Denmark. -We found Mrs. Anderssen as rosy-cheeked and as youthful as when we first -saw her. She made our visit very pleasant, rounding it off with one of -her delightful little dinners on the evening of our departure. We -requited her hospitality by presenting her with various kinds of -fruit—pineapples, lemons, oranges, and a watermelon. The natives -expressed great pleasure on seeing us, and old Frederick, who had -accompanied Mr. Peary on the ice in 1886, after shaking hands with me, -said, “Very gude, you look all samee,” rubbing his hands over his face -and then pointing to mine to show me that I had not changed in looks -since last he saw me. - -Our next stopping-place was Upernavik, where we remained just long -enough to pick up a few dogs, after which we put in at Tassiusak, the -most northerly inhabited spot in the world belonging to any government. -This place boasts of but a single wooden house. We here still further -increased our stock of dogs, and then left. The next day we revisited -the Duck Islands, but this year the sport did not compare with that of -two years ago, when the birds were so plentiful that one could hardly -walk without fear of stepping on them. This year it was a month later in -the season, and not only were the young ducks hatched, but the old -mother ducks were out teaching the ducklings to swim, and the islands -consequently were all but deserted. I devoted my time to the gathering -of down for the bedding in our Arctic home, and secured about thirty -pounds. - -We now headed for the ever-dreaded Melville Bay, my first experience -with which I shall never forget. We were then three weeks in crossing, -and it was during that time that Mr. Peary had the misfortune to have -his leg broken. This time everything looked favorable; we had no fog, -and there was no ice in sight from the crow’s-nest. Captain Bartlett was -determined to break the record in the crossing of this water—thirty-six -hours—on this his first voyage to the Arctic regions. In twenty-four -hours and fifty minutes we reached the Eskimo settlement at Cape York, -Melville Bay behind us and still no ice to be seen. - -At this settlement, where formerly so many natives lived, we found only -three families, all of them strange to us; they could tell us nothing -about our acquaintances in the tribe, not having seen any of the -inhabitants to the north of them since the time we left McCormick Bay. -We pushed on along the Greenland coast until we rounded Cape Parry, and -then steamed into Barden Bay, stopping at the Eskimo village of -Netchiolumy. Here, too, instead of finding about sixty natives, as was -the case a year ago, we found only two families. Mr. Peary with two men -went ashore at once, and before their boat reached the land I heard one -of the natives shout “Chimo Peary,” and saw him dance up and down for -joy. On his return Mr. Peary informed me that the natives were Keshu, -_alias_ the Smiler, and Myah, the White Man, with their families. They -were wild with delight, and begged to be allowed to accompany us to the -site of our new house and pitch their tents beside it. They were stowed -with all their belongings into Mr. Peary’s boat, and in a short time -both families with their houses and their chattels were on board the -“Falcon.” They gave us all the news and gossip of the tribe. Naturally, -we first questioned them about our lost companion, Mr. Verhoeff. There -never was a doubt in our minds that Mr. Verhoeff lost his life in -crossing the glacier at the head of Robertson Bay; but his friends at -home took a different view of the matter, and were confident that we -would find him alive and well. These natives say that nothing has been -seen or heard of him, and they hesitate to speak of him, as they never -speak of their dead. Mr. Peary thought perhaps some article of his -clothing had been found by the Eskimos that might throw some light on -the disappearance of our unfortunate associate; but nothing whatever has -been found. We next inquired about our Eskimo friends, and were grieved -to hear that the little five-year-old, bright-eyed, mischievous Anadore, -daughter of our henchman Ikwa and his wife Mané, had died in the early -spring. We learned that Redcliffe House had been destroyed by a few of -the natives, led on by the famous angekok, Kyoahpadu, and that he had -also destroyed the provisions which were cached at Cairn Point by Mr. -Peary. - -[Illustration: - - The Cliffs of Karnah. -] - -We arrived at our destination, at the head of Bowdoin Bay, on August 3d, -without any difficulty, the ice having almost completely left the bay -and sound. The Sculptured Cliffs of Karnah, forming the cape of Bowdoin -Bay, stood out sharp and clear in the early morning sunlight, while the -towering red Castle Cliffs frowned down upon the bay from the opposite -cape. - -The site selected for our new home is only a few feet from where we -pitched our tent last year when engaged in the exploration of Inglefield -Gulf, and where, amidst a furious rainstorm, we celebrated our wedding -anniversary. As we shall celebrate at least two more such anniversaries -here, we have christened our new home “Anniversary Lodge.” The great -cliff which mounts guard over us Mr. Peary has named Mt. Bartlett, in -honor of our gallant young skipper, Captain Harry Bartlett, of St. -John’s. Our snug and picturesque harbor is to be known as Falcon Harbor, -named after the little bark which brought us here in safety, and which -is the first ship to anchor in these waters. - -The day after we dropped anchor in Falcon Harbor we were visited by five -of our former Eskimo acquaintances, who had paddled at least twenty-five -or thirty miles in their kayaks on seeing the ship pass their -settlement. Two of them, Kulutingwah and Annowkah, were residents of -Redcliffe, and it really seemed like meeting old neighbors, although I -must confess that they appear even dirtier than they did a year ago. -Annowkah told me that his wife, M’gipsu, who was our most skilful -seamstress, was ill; but it is impossible to get these people to talk -much about their sick, and so I was unable to find out what really ailed -the poor woman. - -Our Eskimos stayed with us a few days and assisted us in landing our -supplies. They were vastly amused at the burros, which they persist in -calling “big dogs”; and I can hardly blame them, for my St. Bernard dog -is almost as large and tall as some of these little animals. After the -provisions were all ashore, each native took a load of about fifty -pounds on his back and carried it to the ice-cap; but this was the last -straw, and every man decided that he really must return to his family at -once. - -On August 12, the work on the house being well advanced, Mr. Peary -decided to make a trip after walrus for dog-food, intending to proceed -as far as Smith Sound, if possible. It takes quite a little pile of meat -to feed eighty-three Eskimo dogs. Accompanied by the two natives, Keshu -and Myah, we started for Karnah, the nearest settlement, where we had -intended to pick up one or two additional hunters; but on reaching the -place we were shocked to hear that M’gipsu had died “two sleeps ago.” -Mr. Peary went to Annowkah’s tent, and there sat the bereaved husband, -with his sealskin hood pulled over his head, looking straight before -him, saying nothing and doing nothing, apparently knowing nothing of -what was going on about him. It is the custom with these people to act -in this way for a certain length of time after a death, and then they -desert the hut or tent in which the death has taken place, and it is -never again occupied. M’gipsu’s little six-year-old boy, whose father -died when he was very small, also sat in the tent all huddled up in one -corner. Poor little fellow! I do not know what will become of him now, -for it is an open secret that his stepfather, Annowkah, does not like -him. - -As we proceeded up the sound we saw the cakes of ice thickly sprinkled -with walrus, which had come out of the water and were taking a sun-bath. -The boats were lowered, and the men started after them. In a few hours -we had twenty-four of the monsters on board. Their average weight was -estimated at not less than fifteen hundred pounds. There were several -cold baths taken by the hunters, and some narrow escapes, but nothing -serious occurred, and we continued on our course, heading for Cape -Alexander. Once around the cape, we steamed half-way across the sound -toward Cape Sabine, where we were stopped by the ice-pack, which -stretched in an unbroken plain as far as we could see. Turning back, we -visited the site of the Polaris House, where a portion of Captain Hall’s -party wintered after the “Polaris” was wrecked. We picked up a number of -souvenirs in the shape of bolts, hooks, hinges, even buttons and leaves -from books. A quantity of rope was found on the border of a little pond -just back of where the house stood, and it seemed to be in a state of -perfect preservation. We also stopped at Littleton Island, and on the -adjoining McGary Island some of the party indulged in a little shooting. -A few ducks and guillemots were shot; four additional walrus and an -oogzook seal were also obtained in this vicinity. The weather then -became thick and a strong wind sprang up, which put an end to the sport. - -All night we steamed toward Hakluyt Island, but on reaching it we could -not make a landing on account of the gale. We lay in the shelter of the -cliffs of Northumberland, and when the storm abated steamed along its -shore, and, crossing Whale Sound, entered Olrich’s Bay, the scenery of -which surpasses that of any of the other Greenland bays that I have -seen. Our party scattered at once in search of reindeer, which we were -told were numerous here, and in a few hours we had seventeen on board -ship. - -Our house is up, and promises to be very cozy. The good ship “Falcon” -sails for home to-morrow, taking with her the last messages which we can -send our dear ones for some time. - -Everything points to the success which Mr. Peary hopes for. What the -future will bring, however, no one can tell. - - - - - THE GREAT WHITE JOURNEY - FROM McCORMICK BAY TO THE NORTHERN SHORE OF GREENLAND AND RETURN - - - BY - - ROBERT E. PEARY - -[Illustration: - - SAILING OVER THE INLAND ICE. -] - -According to my program, the 1st of May was to be the time for the start -on the inland ice, and on the 28th of April, Astrup, Gibson, Dr. Cook, -and the native men then at Redcliffe left with the last load of supplies -for the head of McCormick Bay. The natives were to return after helping -the boys carry the supplies to the top of the bluff; the boys themselves -were to push forward with the work until I joined them. This I did on -the 3d of May. When I left Redcliffe the number of natives there had -dwindled very materially; some drawn away to the seal-hunt, but more -driven away by their superstitious feeling in regard to my going upon -the great ice. We had the most exceptionally fine weather all through -April, but on the very night that I reached the head of the bay a sullen -sky over the ice-cap betokened a change. From this night until the -morning of the 6th of August, when Astrup and myself clambered down the -flower-strewn bluffs again, my couch was the frozen surface of the -inland ice, and my canopy the blue sky. - -The first two weeks after leaving the little house upon the shores of -McCormick Bay were occupied in transporting the supplies—which at -various times during the preceding month had been carried by the members -of my party and helping natives to the crest of the bluffs at the head -of the bay—to the edge of the true inland ice, some miles distant, and -then in dragging them over and among the succession of the great domes -of ice which extend inward some fifteen miles to the gradual slope of -the vast interior snow-plain. One or two snow-storms and the constant -violent wind rushing down from the interior to the shore, combined with -the difficulties of the road and the constant annoyance from our team of -twenty savage and powerful Eskimo dogs, entirely unaccustomed to us and -to our methods, made these two weeks a time of unremitting and arduous -labor for myself. The only pleasant break in this work was the -occurrence of my own birthday, and the unexpected appearance from among -the medical stores, in charge of Dr. Cook, of a little box from the -hands of the dear one left behind, containing a bottle of Château Yquem, -a wine endeared to both of us by many delightful associations, a cake, -and a note containing birthday wishes for success and continued health. -Once on the true ice-cap, two good marches brought us to the divide, -from which, as from the ridge of a great white-roofed house, the ice-cap -slopes north to the shores of Kane Basin and historic Renssellaer -Harbor, where Kane and his little party passed so many Arctic months, -and southward to the shores of Whale Sound and our own little home. From -this divide we had a slight descent in our favor, and we kept on from -the edge of the basin of the Humboldt Glacier, where the great mass of -the inland ice, like very cold molasses, hollows itself slowly down to -the mighty glacier itself. Here the fiercest storm that we had -encountered thus far burst upon us, and for three days we were confined -to our snow shelter, getting out as best we could in occasional lulls in -the storm to secure loose dogs and endeavor to protect the loads upon -the sledges from their ravages. In this we were fairly successful, -though we did not succeed in preventing them from devouring some six -pounds of cranberry jam, and eating the foot off Gibson’s sleeping-bag. -This storm over, we were not again troubled by really violent storms -during our northward march. - -[Illustration: - - The Land beyond the Ice. -] - -On the 24th of May Dr. Cook and Gibson, who had formed our supporting -party, left us to return to Redcliffe, leaving Astrup as my sole -companion for the remainder of the journey. On the last day of May, from -the dazzling surface of the ice-cap we looked down into the basin of the -Petermann Glacier—the grandest amphitheater of snow and ragged ice that -human eye has ever seen, walled in the distance by a Titan dam of black -mountains, and all lit by the yellow midnight sunlight. Still keeping on -to the northward, navigating the ice as does the mariner the sea along -an unknown coast, we were befogged for two or three days in clouds and -mists which prevented us from seeing to any distance. As a result, we -approached too near the mountains of the coast, and got entangled in the -rough ice and crevasses of the Sherard Osborne Glacier system. Here we -lost twelve or fourteen days in our efforts to get back to the smooth, -unbroken snow-cap of the interior. Once there, we continued our march, -always northeastward, till on the 27th of June I discerned black -mountain-summits rising above the horizon of the ice-cap, directly ahead -of us. Then the northwest entrance of a fjord came into view, and we -could trace its course southeasterly just beyond the nearer mountains of -the land north and northeast. I changed my course to east, when I was -soon confronted by the land and the fjord beyond. Then I turned to the -southeast, and traveled in that direction until the 1st of July, when -we, after fifty-seven days of journeying over a barren waste of snow, -stepped upon the rocks of a strange new land, lying red-brown in the -sunlight, and dotted with snow-drifts here and there. The murmur of -rushing streams, the roar of leaping cataracts from the ice-cap, and the -song of snow-buntings made the air musical. Leaving the sledge and our -supplies at the very edge of the rocks, leading our dogs, and with a few -days’ supplies upon our backs, Astrup and myself started on over this -strange land, bound for the coast, which we knew could not be far -distant. Four days of the hardest traveling, over sharp stones of all -sizes, through drifts of snow and across rushing torrents, and we came -out at last upon the summit of a towering cliff, about 3500 feet high, -now known as Navy Cliff, from which we overlooked the great and hitherto -undiscovered Independence Bay. - -Before us stretched new lands and waters, to which, with the explorer’s -prerogative, I gave names, as follows: the bay at our feet, opening into -the Arctic Ocean half-way between the 81st and 82d parallels of -latitude, was named Independence Bay in honor of the day, July 4th; the -red-brown land beyond the fjord which had stopped our forward northward -progress was called Heilprin Land; and a still more distant land beyond -the entrance of a second fjord, Melville Land. The enormous glacier at -our right, flowing due north into Independence Bay, received the name of -Academy Glacier, and the bold rugged land beyond it, Daly Land. - -It was almost impossible for us to believe that we were standing upon -the northern shore of Greenland as we gazed from the summit of this -bronze cliff, with the most brilliant sunshine all about us, with yellow -poppies growing between the rocks around our feet, and a herd of -musk-oxen in the valley behind us. Two of these animals we had killed, -and their bodies were now awaiting our return for a grand feast of fresh -meat. Down in that same valley I had found an old friend, a dandelion in -bloom, and had seen the bullet-like flight and heard the energetic buzz -of the bumble-bee. - -[Illustration: - - The Academy Glacier. -] - -For seven days we remained in this northern land, more than six hundred -miles of pathless icy sea separating us from the nearest human being, -and then we began our return march. This return march, much shorter than -the upward one, was uneventful and monotonous. For about two weeks we -were about a mile and a half above the sea-level, literally in the -clouds, and day after day, in every direction, stretched only the -steel-blue line of the snow horizon. The snow was soft and light, and -without our “ski,” or Norwegian snow-skates, and Indian snow-shoes we -should have been almost helpless in it; but at last, after passing the -latitude of the Humboldt Glacier, when we were only about a mile above -the sea-level, the traveling became better. The slight downgrade -assisted us, and for seven days we averaged thirty miles a day, -increasing our distance on each successive day, showing that both men -and dogs were in perfect training, and, like the scientific athlete, had -still the reserve force necessary for a grand spurt on the home stretch. - -[Illustration: - - MAP OF - INDEPENDENCE BAY - - EAST COAST OF GREENLAND - JULY 4^{TH} 1892 - R. E. PEARY, U.S. NAVY - - OBSERVATION SPOT ON NAVY CLIFF - LAT. 81° 37′ 5″ N. - LONG. 34° 5′ W. -] - -The night of the 5th to the 6th of August was an exquisitely clear and -perfect one. From eight to eleven Astrup and myself and our remaining -five dogs toiled up the north slope of the largest of the ice-domes -between the head of McCormick Bay and the edge of the true interior -ice—one to which I had given the name “Dome Mountain.” As I rose over -the crest of the great white mass and looked down and forward upon our -course, there, some two miles away, upon the slope of the next dome, -were two or three dark, irregular objects. Even as I looked at them they -moved and separated, until I could count several detached bodies. They -could be but one thing—men; and as there were so many of them, and as I -was sure that none of the Eskimos could have been persuaded by my boys -to set foot upon the inland ice, I knew in an instant that some ship was -lying in the bay waiting for us. It was but a little while later, both -parties descending rapidly toward each other, that we met in the -depression between the two domes, and I grasped again the hand of -Professor Heilprin, who had been the last to say good-by to me a year -before, as I lay a cripple in my tent, and who now had come again to -meet me and bring us back. It was a strange and never-to-be-forgotten -meeting. In the ship lying at anchor at the very head of the bay I found -the woman who had been waiting for me for three months, and two days -later we were back again in the little house which had sheltered us -through a year of Arctic vicissitudes. - -Such, in brief, is the outline of the inland-ice journey from McCormick -Bay to the northern shore of Greenland and back. Its important results -are already well known, and it is not necessary to revert to them here. -I will attempt, however, to give some adequate impression of the unique -surroundings in which our work was done, and also to make clear the real -character of this great interior ice-plateau, a natural feature so -entirely different from any with which we are acquainted in better known -portions of the globe that I have sometimes found it difficult to -convey, even to the most cultivated minds, a really adequate conception -of what the great ice-cap is like. - -The terms “inland ice” and “great interior frozen sea,” two of the more -common names by which the region traversed by us is generally known, -both suggest to the majority of people erroneous ideas. In the first -place, the surface is not ice, but merely a compacted snow. The term -“sea” is also a misnomer in so far as it suggests the idea of a sometime -expanse of water subsequently frozen over. The only justification for -the term is the unbroken and apparently infinite horizon which bounds -the vision of the traveler upon its surface. Elevated as the entire -region is to a height of from 4000 to 9000 feet above the sea-level, the -towering mountains of the coast, which would be visible to the sailor at -a distance of sixty to eighty miles, disappear beneath the landward -convexity of the ice-cap by the time the traveler has penetrated fifteen -or twenty miles into the interior, and then he may travel for days and -weeks with no break whatever in the continuity of the sharp, steel-blue -line of the horizon. - -The sea has its days of towering, angry waves, of laughing, glistening -whitecaps, of mirror-like calm. The “frozen sea” is always the -same—motionless, petrified. Around its white shield the sun circles for -months in succession, never hiding his face except in storms. Once a -month the pale full moon climbs above the opposite horizon, and circles -with him for eight or ten days. - -Sometimes, though rarely, cloud shadows drift across the white expanse, -but usually the cloud phenomena are the heavy prophecies or actualities -of furious storms veiling the entire sky; at other times they are merely -the shadows of dainty, transparent cirrus feathers. In clearest weather -the solitary traveler upon this white Sahara sees but three things -outside of and beyond himself—the unbroken, white expanse of the snow, -the unbroken blue expanse of the sky, and the sun. In cloudy weather all -three of these may disappear. - -Many a time I have found myself in cloudy weather traveling in gray -space. Not only was there no object to be seen, but in the entire sphere -of vision there was no difference in intensity of light. My feet and -snow-shoes were sharp and clear as silhouettes, and I was sensible of -contact with the snow at every step. Yet as far as my eyes gave me -evidence to the contrary, I was walking upon nothing. The space between -my snow-shoes was as light as the zenith. The opaque light which filled -the sphere of vision might come from below as well as above. A curious -mental as well as physical strain resulted from this blindness with -wide-open eyes, and sometimes we were obliged to stop and await a -change. - -The wind is always blowing on the great ice-cap, sometimes with greater, -sometimes with less violence, but the air is never quiet. When the -velocity of the wind increases beyond a certain point it scoops up the -loose snow, and the surface of the inland ice disappears beneath a -hissing white torrent of blinding drift. The thickness of this drift may -be anywhere from six inches to thirty or even fifty feet, dependent upon -the consistency of the snow. When the depth of the drift is not in -excess of the height of the knee, its surface is as tangible and almost -as sharply defined as that of a sheet of water, and its incessant dizzy -rush and strident sibilation become, when long continued, as maddening -as the drop, drop, drop, of water on the head in the old torture-rooms. - -While traversing the inland ice our hours of marching were those -corresponding to what here would be night—that is, when the sun was -above the northern horizon. In our line of march I took the lead, on -snow-shoes or ski as the condition of the snow demanded, setting the -course by compass, or by time, and the shadow cast by my bamboo staff. -The dogs, a few yards in the rear, followed my trail, and Astrup -traveled on ski beside the sledge, encouraging the dogs and keeping them -up to their work. - -Our daily routine was as follows: When the day’s march (measured -sometimes by the hours we had been on the move and sometimes by the -distance covered) was completed, I began sounding the snow with the -light bamboo staff to which my little silken guidon was attached, until -I found a place where it was firm enough to permit of blocks being cut -from it. This done, the guidon-staff was erected in the snow, and at the -shout of “Tima” from me, my dogs, no matter how long or how hard the day -had been, would prick up their ears and come hurrying up to me until -they could lie down around my feet, glad that the day’s work was done. - -As soon as the sledge came to a standstill I read the odometer, aneroid, -and thermometer; then Astrup and myself undid the lashings, and as soon -as the lines were loose Astrup took the saw-knife and began excavating -for our kitchen, while I took the short steel-pointed stake to which we -fastened our dogs and drove it firmly into the snow in front, and some -fifty feet to leeward, of the kitchen site. I then untangled the dogs’ -traces, detached the animals from the sledge, and made them fast to the -stake. I next got out a tin of pemmican, a can-opener, and a heavy -hunting-knife, and, kneeling behind the sledge, prepared the dogs’ -rations, which consisted of a pound of pemmican each. I then fed the -hungry creatures, standing over them meanwhile with the whip, to see -that the weaker ones were not deprived of their share. - -By this time Astrup had completed an excavation in the snow, about eight -feet long by three feet wide and a foot and a half deep, and with the -snow blocks obtained from this excavation had formed a wall a foot or a -foot and a half high across one end and half-way down each side. Across -this wall was put one, and sometimes both, of the ski, and over this was -spread a light cotton sail, weighted down with blocks of snow. This was -known as our kitchen, and at the innermost end was placed the -kitchen-box, containing our milk, tea, pea-soup, Liebig’s Extract, -drinking-cups, can-opener, knives, spoons, and the day’s rations of -pemmican and biscuit; also the alcohol-stove and a box of matches, done -up in a waterproof package. - -Then, if it was Astrup’s turn as cook he immediately began the -preparations for dinner by lighting the alcohol-lamp and filling the -boiler with snow, while I lay down in the lee of the sledge and made my -notes of the day’s work. If it was my turn as _chef_, as soon as the -kitchen was finished I took possession of it, and Astrup retreated to -the shelter of the sledge. While the snow was melting I wrote up my -notes, Astrup usually devoting this time to rubbing vaseline into his -face to repair the ravages of the sun and wind. As soon as sufficient -water had been melted, two cupfuls of pea-soup were made, and this, with -a half-pound lump of pemmican, formed our first course. While we were -enjoying this the water for our tea was brought to the boiling-point. -Pea-soup and pemmican finished, we each had a cupful of cold milk, and -when this had disappeared the tea was made; six biscuits apiece formed -our dessert. - -When our luxurious repast was over, what was left of our day’s allowance -of alcohol was allowed to expend itself on a fresh boilerful of snow for -our morning tea, while the cook made his preparations for the night by -changing his footgear and tightening the drawstrings of his furs. In -addition to his other duties, the cook of the day had the entire -responsibility, from dinner-time until breakfast, of the dogs, and it -was the first rigid regulation of the journey that he should always be -so dressed that he could at a moment’s notice jump from his shelter and -capture a loose dog. The dogs were always fastened directly in front of -the opening of the kitchen, so that the occupant, by raising his head, -could see at once if his presence were needed. During the first portion -of our journey this duty was an onerous one, and frequently meant a -sleepless night; but later on, after several of the dogs had received -some severe discipline for attempted thefts, and particularly after we -had adopted the plan of muzzling them every night as soon as they had -finished their dinner, we had but little trouble. - -In the morning I was generally the one to waken first, and would either -start the alcohol-lamp myself or else call Astrup for that purpose. Our -morning meal consisted of a lump of pemmican, six biscuits, two ounces -of butter, and two cups of tea each. As soon as this was finished -everything was repacked on the sledge, and while Astrup was completing -the lashing, I removed the dogs’ muzzles, untangled their traces, and -attached them to the sledge. I then read the odometer, aneroid, and -thermometer, and, taking the guidon, which had waved and fluttered over -the kitchen throughout our hours of rest, from its place, stepped -forward, and the next march was commenced. After from four to six hours -of marching we would halt for half an hour to eat our simple lunch of -pemmican and give the dogs a rest, and then, after another four to six -hours of traveling, halt again and repeat the already described routine. - -[Illustration: - - DRIFTED IN. -] - -The three sledges used on our journey were the survivors of a fleet of -ten, comprising seven different styles. They consisted simply of two -long, broad wooden runners curved at both ends, with standards -supporting light but strong crossbars. The largest sledge was thirteen -feet long and two feet wide, with runners four inches wide and standards -six inches high; this sledge had no particle of metal in its -construction, being composed entirely of wood, horn, and rawhide -lashings. It weighed forty-eight pounds, and carried easily a load of a -thousand pounds. After a two hundred and fifty mile trip round -Inglefield Gulf, it made the long journey to the north and return to -within two hundred miles of McCormick Bay, when it was abandoned for a -lighter sledge. The second sledge was eleven feet by two, with three and -one-half inch runners and six-inch standards. It weighed thirty-five -pounds, and carried a load of over five hundred pounds. It broke down on -the upward trip and was abandoned. The third sledge, made by Astrup, was -ten feet by sixteen inches, with three-inch runners and two-inch -standards; it weighed thirteen pounds, and carried a load of four -hundred pounds. This sledge made the round trip of thirteen hundred -miles, though carrying a load for only about eight hundred miles. - -The result of this extended practical experience with sledges has been -to show me that my previous ideas as to the great superiority of the -toboggan type of sledge for inland-ice work (ideas gained during my -reconnoissance in 1886, east of Disko Bay) were erroneous, and that the -sledge with broad runners and standards is _the_ sledge. Also, that the -wear upon the runners is practically _nil_, and that shoes of steel or -ivory are not only useless, but actually increase the tractive -resistance. - -Of even greater importance to our successful progress during the -inland-ice journey than our sledges were the ski, or Norwegian -snow-skates. Valuable as are the Indian snow-shoes for Arctic work, the -ski far surpass them in speed, ease of locomotion, and reduced chances -of chafing or straining the feet. On the upward journey I alternated -between the snow-shoes and the ski, but while descending the northern -ice-slope I had the misfortune to break one of the ski, and on the -return trip was obliged to use the snow-shoes only. Astrup used ski -entirely from start to finish. - -I am satisfied that the only material for the clothing of men traveling -upon the inland ice is fur, and that the man who dispenses with it adds -to the weight he has to carry, and compels himself to endure serious -drafts upon his vitality, to say nothing of deliberately choosing -discomfort instead of comfort. The great objection urged against fur -clothing is that, allowing the evaporation from the body no opportunity -to escape, the clothing beneath it gets saturated while the wearer is at -work, and then, when he ceases, he becomes thoroughly chilled. This -trouble is, in my opinion, due entirely to inexperience and ignorance of -how to use the fur clothing. It was a part of my plan to obtain the -material for my fur clothing and sleeping-bags in the Whale Sound -region, and I was entirely successful in so doing. My boys shot the -deer, the skins were stretched and dried in Redcliffe, I devised and cut -the patterns for the suits and sleeping-bags, and the native women sewed -them. As a result of my study of the Eskimo clothing and its use, I -adopted it almost _literatim_, and my complete wardrobe consisted of a -hooded deerskin coat weighing five and one-fourth pounds, a hooded -sealskin coat weighing two and one-half pounds, a pair of dogskin -knee-trousers weighing three pounds nine ounces, sealskin boots with -woolen socks and fur soles, weighing two pounds, and an undershirt; -total, about thirteen pounds. With various combinations of this outfit, -I could keep perfectly warm and yet not get into a perspiration, in -temperatures from +40° F. to –50°, whether at rest, or walking, or -pulling upon a sledge. - -The deerskin coat, with the trousers, footgear, and undershirt, weighed -eleven and one-fourth pounds, or about the same as an ordinary winter -business suit, including shoes, underwear, etc., but not the overcoat. -In this costume, with the fur inside and the drawstrings at waist, -wrists, knees, and face pulled tight, I have seated myself upon the -great ice-cap four thousand feet above the sea with the thermometer at -–38°, the wind blowing so that I could scarcely stand against it, and -with back to the wind have eaten my lunch leisurely and in comfort; -then, stretching myself at full length for a few moments, have listened -to the fierce hiss of the snow driving past me with the same pleasurable -sensation that, seated beside the glowing grate, we listen to the roar -of the rain upon the roof. - -Our sleeping-bags, also of the winter coat of the deer, with the fur -inside, were, I think, the lightest and warmest ever used. In my own -bag, weighing ten and one-fourth pounds, I have slept comfortably out -upon the open snow, with no shelter whatever and the thermometer at -–41°, wearing inside the bag only undergarments. During the inland-ice -journey, throughout which the temperature was never more than a degree -or two below zero, our sleeping-bags were discarded, our fur clothing -being ample protection for us when asleep, even though I carried no -tent. - -While the variety of food was not as great as it has been on some other -expeditions, I doubt if any party ever had more healthy or nutritious -fare. A carefully studied feature of my project was the entire -dependence upon the game of the Whale Sound region for my meat supply; -and though I took an abundance of tea, coffee, sugar, milk, flour, -corn-meal, and evaporated fruits and vegetables, my canned meats were -only sufficient to carry us over the period of installation, with a -small supply for short sledge journeys. In this respect, as in others, -my plans were fortunate of fulfilment, and we were always well supplied -with venison. With fresh meat and fresh bread every day we could smile -defiance at scurvy. - -[Illustration: - - SKETCH MAP showing route of the - NORTH GREENLAND EXPEDITION - OF 1891–’92 - R. E. PEARY, U.S.N. -] - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES - - - 1. Silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling. - 2. Archaic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings retained as printed. - 3. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. - 4. 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