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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0558611 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #64419 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/64419) diff --git a/old/64419-0.txt b/old/64419-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index ebc69c7..0000000 --- a/old/64419-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9914 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Tales of an Old Sea Port, by Wilfred Harold -Munro - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Tales of an Old Sea Port - A General Sketch of the History of Bristol, Rhode Island, Including, Incidentally, an Account of the Voyages of the Norsemen, So Far as They May Have Been Connected with Narragansett Bay: and Personal Narratives of Some Notable Voyages Accomplished by Sailors from the Mount Hope Lands - - -Author: Wilfred Harold Munro - - - -Release Date: January 30, 2021 [eBook #64419] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT*** - - -E-text prepared by MFR, John Campbell, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made -available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 64419-h.htm or 64419-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/64419/64419-h/64419-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/64419/64419-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/talesofoldseapor00munro - - -Transcriber’s note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Footnote anchors are denoted by [number], and the footnotes - have been placed at the end of Part I, II and III. - - Basic fractions are displayed as ½ ⅓ ¼ etc; other fractions - are shown in the form a/b, for example 21/95. - - Display of Lat./Long. coordinates has been made consistent, - with no space between the values, but with a space before - N/S/E/W if present, for example 12°34′56″ N. - - Changes to the text are noted at the end of the book. - - - - - -TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT - -A GENERAL SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BRISTOL, RHODE ISLAND, INCLUDING, -INCIDENTALLY, AN ACCOUNT OF THE VOYAGES OF THE NORSEMEN, SO FAR AS -THEY MAY HAVE BEEN CONNECTED WITH NARRAGANSETT BAY: AND PERSONAL -NARRATIVES OF SOME NOTABLE VOYAGES ACCOMPLISHED BY SAILORS FROM THE -MOUNT HOPE LANDS - -by - -WILFRED HAROLD MUNRO - -Of Brown University - - - - - - -Princeton University Press -Princeton -London: Humphrey Milford -Oxford University Press -1917 - -Copyright, 1917, by -Princeton University Press - -Published November, 1917 -Printed in the United States of America - - -[Illustration: PRINCETON UNIVERSITY PRESS (colophon)] - - - - - CONTENTS - - PAGE - - Introduction: Old Bristol 1 - - Part I--Simeon Potter and the Prince Charles of Lorraine - 1--Simeon Potter 37 - 2--Letter of Father Fauque 48 - - Part II--Norwest John and the Voyage of the Juno - 1--Norwest John 97 - 2--Voyage of the Juno 100 - - Part III--James de Wolf and the Privateer Yankee - 1--James De Wolf 205 - 2--Journal of the Yankee 225 - - Index 289 - - - - -TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT - - - - -INTRODUCTION: OLD BRISTOL - - -From the earliest days of the Plymouth Colony the name Mount Hope -Lands has been applied to the peninsula in Narragansett Bay of which -Bristol, Rhode Island, is the chief town. The history of this town -is more crowded with notable incident than that of any other in New -England. First and most picturesque is the story of the Norsemen. -Around Mount Hope the legends of the Norsemen cluster, shadowy, -vague, elusive, and yet altogether fascinating. Only legends they are -and must remain. - -After the lapse of a thousand years of changing climates and of -varying shores no man can definitely locate the Vinland of the -Vikings. Many have attempted to do so, and, like the late Professor -E. N. Horsford,[1] have established their theses to their own -satisfaction and the satisfaction of the present dwellers in _their_ -Vinland, but they have not succeeded in convincing any one else. -One of the latest writers[2] approaching the subject without local -prejudice, and judging of the past by the ever changing present, will -have it that the physical conditions of the lands around Narragansett -Bay in the eleventh century were such as to make it more than -probable that the “Hop” of the Norsemen is the Mount Hope of -today.[3] In his conclusions all good Bristolians, yea more, all good -Rhode Islanders, cheerfully join. Scandinavian writers insist that -the name “Mount Hope” is of Norse origin. They assert that it is only -an English spelling of the Indian name Montop, or Monthaup, and they -are probably correct in their assertion. The Indians had no written -language and our Pilgrim ancestors spelled the Indian words as they -pleased, sometimes in half a dozen ways upon the same page. They go -on to say that the termination “hop” was the name which Thorfinn and -his companions gave to this region when they wintered here in 1008, -and they bring forward the old Norse sagas to prove it. This is the -story as the sagas tell it: - -In the year of Our Lord 1000 the Norsemen first visited the shores -of Vinland. They came from Greenland, a hundred years and more after -their countrymen had discovered and colonized Iceland. Their ship -was an open boat from fifty to seventy-five feet long, similar to -the one dug from the sands at Sandefjord, Norway, in 1880, which is -preserved in the museum of the university at Christiania. It was -propelled by oars and had a short mast amidships on which was spread -a small square sail. Both mast and sail were used only when the wind -was fair. They came creeping along from headland to headland, seldom -venturing out of sight of land in the unfamiliar seas. The mariner’s -compass was then unknown, except perhaps to the Chinese, and the -art of propelling a boat against the wind by “tacking” had not been -developed, unless possibly by those same Chinese. It would have been -impossible to tack in one of the Viking ships. In the first place the -sail area was too small and in the second place the steering was all -done from one side. A long steering oar was fastened upon a fulcrum -about two feet long on the right side of the boat, the steer-board, -starboard side. On one tack the oar would have been useless because -submerged, on the other equally useless because it could not go deep -enough to “grip” the water. To men accustomed to the icy Arctic seas, -voyages southward held out no terrors; they were only pleasant summer -excursions. - -Thirty-five men made up the party and their leader was Leif Ericson. -His purpose was to explore the coasts which his countryman, Biarni -Heriulfson, had seen several years before, when in attempting to -cross from Iceland to Greenland adverse winds had driven him to lands -lying far to the south, possibly the island of Newfoundland. Leif -was sailing in Biarni’s ship which he had bought for the voyage. The -first shores sighted they conjectured to be those which Biarni had -seen. They offered no attractions. The explorers called the country -Helluland, the Land of Broad Stones, and passed on to Markland, the -Land of Woods, which may have been Nova Scotia. A few more days -brought them to an island where they noticed a peculiar sweetness in -the dew. They may have been the first “Off Islanders” to land upon -Nantucket, which is noted for its honey-dew. Following the coast they -came to a place “where a river flowed out of a lake.” The region -was inviting but the tide was low and the explorers were obliged to -wait until high water before they could pass over the broad shallows -into the lake beyond. Here they disembarked and erected temporary -habitations which soon gave place to permanent dwellings when they -determined to winter at that place. The new houses were easily -constructed from the stones which abundantly covered the fields as -they do even to this day. - -The place seemed a paradise to the hardy voyagers. Fish of many -kinds leaped from the waters of the river and bay. Salmon larger -than any they had before seen were especially abundant. Many wild -animals roamed through the forests, as the deer wander through the -woods and pastures of Rhode Island at the present time. The denizens -of the frigid zone rightly imagined that cattle might easily find -provender throughout the winter, in a climate so soft and mild. They -experienced no severe cold; “no snow fell and the grass did not -wither much.” They had chanced upon one of the mild winters with -which we are occasionally favored. Three or four times in the last -thirty years the Mount Hope Lands have known seasons when there were -but few snow storms and those slight, seasons when in the sheltered -nooks of the forest the grass did not wither much. The next party -encountered “real New England weather,” and doubtless objurgated -Leif’s party for romancing concerning the climate. “The equality -in length of days was greater than in Iceland or Greenland. On the -shortest day the sun remained above the horizon from 7.30 to 4.30.”[4] - -The dwellings having been completed, Leif divided his men into two -parties in order to explore the country. One party was to remain at -home while the other went abroad, and the exploring party was always -to return at nightfall. Especial charge was given the men to keep -together. The fear of the unknown was a marked characteristic of -the Dark Ages, even among the Norsemen who dreaded no human foes. -One of the party was a German, Tyrker by name, a kind of foster -father of Leif. He was missing one night when the explorers came -home and Leif at once started in search of him with a party of -twelve men. They were soon met by Tyrker, whom they welcomed with -great joy. But the man acted most strangely. At first he spoke only -in German, his mother tongue, and rolled his eyes and made strange -facial contortions when they did not understand what he said. -After a time the Norse language came back to him and he explained -his queer behavior. He had chanced upon some wild grapes and the -memories his discovery brought back were too much for him. Whether -he had found some of the fox-grapes which are still so common in New -England, or whether, as Professor Fernald conjectures, the fruit was -either a wild currant or a rock cranberry, we can not know; but the -adventurers were immensely pleased at his discovery. They filled the -“long boat,” which was carried with them as a tender, with the dried -fruit, when in the early spring they returned to Brattahlid, their -home port. Because of the grapes the name Vinland was given to the -region. - -The return of Leif and the account his sailors gave naturally caused -intense excitement in that quiet community. In the spring of 1002 -Thorvald Ericson, taking his brother’s ship and probably some of -Leif’s crew as guides, sailed on another voyage to Vinland. His -object was to make a more thorough exploration of the country. Thirty -men made up Thorvald’s party. Nothing is told of their voyage until -they reached Leif’s booths in Vinland. There they laid up their ship -and remained quietly through the winter, living by hunting and -fishing. The next year was spent in exploring the lands to the south. -The second summer they turned their steps northward and in this -northern expedition Thorvald was killed in a battle with the natives. -His comrades buried him on the headland where he had proposed to -settle. “There you shall bury me,” he told them after he had received -his death wound, “and place a cross at my head and another at my -feet, and the place shall be called Crossness ever after.” The -winter of 1004-5 was passed in Leifsbooths gathering cargo for the -return voyage. In the spring they sailed back to Greenland carrying -large quantities of grapes as their companions had done. Because of -Thorvald’s death the accounts of his voyage are probably more meagre -than they otherwise would have been. - -In 1007 the most important of the Norse expeditions sailed from -Greenland. Its leader was Thorfinn Karlsefni. Thorfinn was both -seaman and merchant. Sailing from Iceland to Greenland on a trading -voyage, he had wintered at Brattahlid and there married his wife -Gudrid. Naturally there had been much talk of Vinland the Good during -the long Arctic winter and in the spring an expedition to explore the -new country was fitted out. It consisted of three ships manned by one -hundred and sixty men. With it went Gudrid and six other women, for -it was proposed to colonize the land. Thorfinn spent the winter amid -great hardships, caused by cold and lack of food, on what may have -been one of the islands of Buzzard’s Bay. There his son Snorri was -born, as far as we know the first child of European parents born upon -the shores of the American continent. In the spring, coming at last -to the place “where a river flowed down from the land into a lake and -then into the sea,” they waited for the high tide, as Leif had done, -sailed into the mouth of the river and called the place Hop.[5] On -the lowlands about them were self-sown fields of grain; on the high -ground the wild grapes grew in great profusion. Deer and other wild -animals roamed through the forests. The brooks as well as the bay -were filled with fish. They dug pits upon the beach before the high -tide came and when the tide fell the pits were leaping with fish. -Just so today flounders may be caught along the Narragansett shores. -The booths that Leif’s party had put up could not accommodate the new -comers and additional houses were built inland above the lake. No -snow fell during the winter. The cattle they had brought with them -needed no protection and lived by grazing. None of the privations of -the previous winter were experienced, and all things went well until -the Skraelings, or natives, appeared. At first the Skraelings came -only for trading. They wished to exchange skins for goods, being -especially anxious to obtain little strips of scarlet cloth, and -willingly giving a whole skin for the smallest strip. The Norsemen -benevolently attempted to satisfy the desires of all by tearing the -cloth into smaller and yet smaller pieces as the supply diminished. -While the bartering was going on one of the bulls Thorfinn had -brought with him appeared upon the scene, bellowing loudly. Thereupon -the savages rushed to their canoes and paddled away as quickly as -possible. A month later they reappeared, this time not to barter but -to fight. In the combat that followed two Northmen fell and many of -the Skraelings were killed. This battle convinced Thorfinn that the -lands though excellent in quality would be undesirable for a colony -by reason of the hostility of the natives. He therefore turned his -keels northward and returned to Greenland in 1010. - -From this time expeditions to Vinland to procure grapes and timber -became frequent. Because they had lost their novelty they ceased -to be chronicled. As the saga puts it, “they were esteemed both -lucrative and honorable.” One noteworthy one is given in the -“Antiquitates Americanae,” that of Freydis and her husband Thorvald. -The tale of Freydis is a grewsome one. She seems to have been -entirely lacking in human sensibilities. Her husband murdered in cold -blood all the men of a party that had opposed him but he spared their -five women. Freydis seized an axe and brained them all. Possibly -their mangled remains may have been buried at the foot of Mount Hope. - -Other mention of Vinland is found apart from the Icelandic -chronicles. Adam of Bremen in his “Historia Ecclesiastica,” published -in 1073, describes Iceland and Greenland and then goes on to say that -there is another country far out in the ocean which has been visited -by many persons, and which is called Vinland because of the grapes -found there. In Vinland, he says, corn grows without cultivation, as -he learns from trustworthy Norse sources. This must of course have -been the Indian corn, a grain that is hardly possible of cultivation -in Europe north of the Alps. - -The people of Iceland were more given to the writing of chronicles -than were those of the countries of Europe, but unhappily Iceland was -a land of volcanoes and eruptions were not infrequent. An eruption of -Mount Hecla in 1390 buried several of the neighboring estates beneath -its ashes. Perhaps under those ashes may be lying other sagas that -may at some time be brought again to light, as in the case of the -scrolls of Pompeii. Mention of the lands that Leif discovered is -found in the “Annals of Iceland” as late as 1347. The last Bishop of -Greenland was appointed in the first decade of the fifteenth century -and since that time the colony has never been heard of. Ruins of its -houses may still be seen, but of the fate of those who dwelt in them -we know nothing. - -One witness there still may be to testify to the Norse visits. About -thirty-five years ago a rock known by tradition but lost sight of -for half a century was rediscovered on the shores of Mount Hope Bay. -Upon it is rudely carved the figure of a boat with what may have been -a Runic inscription beneath it. The writing was surely not graven -by English hands and the Indians had no written language. May not -the strange carving have been made by the axe of a Norseman? It is -not remarkable that the rock was lost sight of for so many years. -The inscription is inconspicuous and the rock is like hundreds of -others along the shore. Moreover it was sometimes covered by the high -tides of spring and fall. It has recently been removed to a more -conspicuous position and may ere long be protected by a fence from -the vandalism of the occasional tourist. - -Fact and not fancy characterizes the Indian history of the Mount Hope -Lands. First upon the scene steps Massasoit, “Friend of the White -Man,” ruler of all the region when the Pilgrims of the Mayflower -landed upon the shores of Plymouth. Like all the Indian sachems, -Massasoit had many places of residence. He moved from one to another -as the great barons of the Middle Ages moved from one castle to -another, and for the same reason. When provisions became scarce in -one place a region where they were more plentiful was sought. One -of his villages was unquestionably upon the slope of Mount Hope. -Not many weeks after the landing of the Pilgrims Massasoit had paid -them a visit in their new settlement. In July, 1621, Edward Winslow -and Stephen Hopkins were sent by Governor Bradford to return the -visit. Of what happened to this “embassy” and to a second sent some -two years later, Winslow presented a very full account, which may be -read in very nearly all of the histories of the period. It is one -of the most trustworthy and valuable pictures of Indian royal state -that have come down to us from colonial days. Winslow found Massasoit -occupying a wigwam only a little larger than those of his subjects. -The sleeping place was a low platform of boards covered with a thin -mat. On this bed, says Winslow, Massasoit placed his visitors, with -himself and his wife at one end and the Englishmen at the other, -and two more of Massasoit’s men passed by and upon them, so that -they were worse weary of the lodging than of the journey. As the -sachem had not been apprised of Winslow’s projected visit, he had -made no provisions for his entertainment. No supper whatsoever was -secured that night, and not until one o’clock of the next afternoon -was food to be had. Then two large fish, which had just been shot -(with arrows, of course), were boiled and placed before the sachem’s -guests, now numbering forty or more besides the two Englishmen. - -In 1623 tidings reached Plymouth that Massasoit was sick and likely -to die. Edward Winslow was therefore sent to visit him a second time. -With him went a young English gentleman who was wintering at Plymouth -and who desired much to see the country. His name was John Hampden, -a name destined to become famous wherever the English language was -spoken. The great John Hampden was born in 1594. He would have been -twenty-nine years old at this time. He had as yet done nothing -whatever to make himself famous and was a comparatively inconspicuous -man, notwithstanding the prominent position his family had held for -centuries in England. There is no record of his presence in England -at this time. Like Oliver Cromwell he may have been considering -a residence in America among men of his own religious faith, and -for this reason may have made a preliminary visit to this country. -Green, discussing in his “History of the English People” Cromwell’s -scheme for emigrating to America, says: “It is more certain that -John Hampden purchased a tract of land on the Narragansett.” Most -important of all, the name of John Hampden appears in the list of the -Charter Members of the Colony of Connecticut. - -As long as he lived Massasoit remained the firm friend of the -colonists. Upon his death, in 1662, his son Wamsutta (or Alexander) -headed the Wampanoag tribe for a year, and then came Philip, -Massasoit’s second son. Philip was a foe to the white men, made such -by English treatment of his tribe. He was one of the ablest Indian -leaders this country has produced, a wonderful organizer, a skillful -diplomatist. From tribe to tribe he journeyed, inducing them to rest -from their interminable wars and to turn their weapons against the -common enemy of all. But for an accident which caused hostilities -to begin a little while before the year (1676) Philip had fixed -upon, the colonists would have been swept from the land. The war -began in 1675, and Capt. Benjamin Church, the conqueror of Philip, -wrote an account of it. Benjamin Church was one of our greatest -“Indian fighters.” He had lain in their wigwams, he had studied their -character. Naturally and inevitably he came at last to the leadership -of the colonial forces. When Philip’s plans had all come to naught, -the Wampanoag sachem came back to Mt. Hope, to make his last stand -and to die. Death came to him from a bullet fired by one of his own -men who had taken service in Capt. Church’s company. In 1876, on the -two hundredth anniversary of his death, the Rhode Island Historical -Society, with appropriate ceremonies, placed a boulder monument on -the top of Mt. Hope, with this inscription: - - KING PHILIP, AUGUST 12, 1676. O. S. - -Beside Cold Spring on the west side of the hill a massive block of -granite records that - - IN THE MIERY SWAMP 166 FEET W. S. W. FROM THIS SPRING, - ACCORDING TO TRADITION, KING PHILIP FELL, - AUGUST 12, 1676. O. S. - -The Mt. Hope lands should have fallen to Plymouth by right of -conquest, as they were included in the territory originally granted -to that colony. But both the Colony of Massachusetts Bay and the -Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations claimed a portion -of the spoils. So delegates of the several colonies were sent to -argue the case before Charles II. Singularly enough another claimant -appeared in the person of John Crowne, a poet. Crowne was a native of -Nova Scotia. His father had purchased a large tract of land in that -country which had become practically valueless because of the cession -of Nova Scotia to the French. He therefore asked that the small -tract of land which had lately come into English possession should be -turned over to him as a compensation. But Mt. Hope, though belonging -to the English Crown, was not to be Crowne land. The Plymouth Colony -agents claimed that the tract, comprising almost 7000 acres, part of -it good soil and much of it rocky, mountainous and barren, for which -they had fought and bled, should be awarded to them, more especially -because it would afford to them the seaport which they lacked. Their -arguments were convincing and the land was awarded to Plymouth by -special grant, January 12, 1680. The king among other things demanded -a quit rent annually of seven beaver skins. No other royal grant was -made of conquered lands, but conflicting claims necessitated this. - -Plymouth Colony at once placed the lands on the market, and September -14, 1680, sold them for $1,100 to four men of Boston, John Walley, -Nathaniel Byfield, Stephen Burton and Nathaniel Oliver. The first -three of these became residents of the town they founded. Of them, -Byfield was the ablest and most distinguished. He came of good stock. -His father was of the Westminster Assembly of Divines. His mother was -sister of Juxon, bishop of London and later archbishop of Canterbury, -who was a personal friend of Charles I, and attended that ill -fated monarch upon the scaffold. Byfield was the wealthiest of the -settlers. He had one residence upon Poppasquash near the head of that -peninsula, and one upon what is now Byfield Street in the south part -of the town. He was a man of unusual ability and large wealth. He was -also a man of great liberality in all his dealings with the town. His -public service was continuous and distinguished. His liberal mind -resisted the insane fanaticism of the people during their delusion -on the subject of witchcraft, and in his will he left a bequest “to -all and every minister of Christ of every denomination in Boston.” -He lived forty-four years in Bristol, only leaving the town when his -advanced age made the greater comforts of Boston necessary. - -John Walley was also of good stock, his father being rector of one -of the London churches. In 1690 he commanded the land forces of -William Phipps in the expedition against Canada. He also, in his old -age, was forced by disease to seek a more luxurious abode in Boston. -Stephen Burton was said to have been a graduate of Oxford. He was -undoubtedly the most scholarly man of the four proprietors. Oliver, a -rich Bostonian, never resided in Bristol but sold his share to Nathan -Hayman, another wealthy Boston merchant. - -With men like these as sponsors for the new settlement, it was not -difficult to secure settlers. The most noted among them was Benjamin -Church, the Indian fighter already mentioned. Capt. Church built a -house upon Constitution Street. (Church Street was not named in his -honor. Upon that street stood the edifice which gave it its name, the -building in which the members of the Church of England worshipped. -There were many streets named for a like reason in colonial days.) -He was the first representative of the town in the general court of -Plymouth Colony and was many times elected to public office. In his -later years he made his home in Little Compton, whence many of his -descendants drifted back to Bristol. Because the town was to be the -seaport of Plymouth Colony, many of the descendants of the Mayflower -Pilgrims naturally came to dwell within its borders. In choosing -Bristol for its name, the settlers cherished a hope that, as in the -case of its English namesake, it would become the great city upon the -west. Boston on the east shore was the London of Massachusetts. - -The new town was laid out on a liberal scale, with side streets -crossing each other at right angles, and a spacious “common” in the -center of the settlement. The grand articles stipulated that all -houses should be two stories high, with not less than two good rooms -on a floor. As most of the settlers could not well spare the time, -if they had the means, for building a house with four rooms upon a -floor, the “camelopard” type of dwelling was much in evidence. This -presented a goodly appearance to the eye of him who stood directly -in front, but degenerated greatly when one shifted his position, -the roof sloping severely and persistently down to a woodpile. One -chimney was deemed sufficient for a house. We should deem such a -one more than sufficient. If of brick it was about fourteen feet -square; if of stone, about twenty feet. All the chimneys had immense -fireplaces, into which a man could sometimes walk without stooping, -and all were admirably adapted to keep a house cold. The rooms -were abominably drafty, and the high backed settle was an absolute -necessity. A great pile of logs might be blistering the faces while -the snow was drifting in through the cracks upon the backs. - -The first house built is still standing just north of the town -bridge. Deacon Nathaniel Bosworth was its builder, an ancestor of -those who own it today. Only the southwestern part of the present -structure was the work of Deacon Bosworth. The best house was -naturally that of Byfield. It was two stories high, with a barn roof, -and was nearly square, thirty by thirty-eight feet. It was torn down -in 1833, and a hard job the destroyers had. The chimney stood in the -center of the house. It was built of imported bricks held together -by mortar mixed with shell lime. This mortar had become hard as -stone. When the chimney was overthrown it fell to the ground almost -unbroken, as an oak tree would fall. Byfield had another house at the -head of the harbor on Poppasquash. In each room were deep fireplaces, -across which ran an oaken beam a foot square. One winter morning the -owner of the house was surprised, when he came down stairs, to find -the house even colder than usual. The front door was open and the -floor was covered with snow drifts. As the door was never locked the -phenomenon interested him but little, and he hastened out to feed -his cattle. One ox was missing and the farmer went back to the house -to organize a searching party, but as he opened the door and turned -his eyes toward the fireplace, he changed his plans. There lay the -huge creature tranquilly chewing the cud of complete contentment. -It had found the door ajar, pushed it open and established itself -comfortably upon the still warm ashes. - -The town was founded for “purposes of trade and commerce” and early -its sails began to whiten the seas. Naturally the first commerce was -coastwise only. Then vessels sought the ports of the West Indies and -Spanish Main, laden most frequently with that bulb whose fragrance -lingers longest in the nostrils, the onion. The culture of this -vegetable was one of the three things for which the town was noted -for more than two centuries. - -There once dwelt in Bristol a man named Sammy Usher, who was noted -for his irascibility not less than for his caustic tongue. One day a -visitor from Brown University was introduced to him. This young man, -though a sophomore, was yet somewhat fresh, and Sammy did not like -him. He said, “Mr. Usher, I hear that Bristol is noted for three -things, its geese, girls and onions. What do you do with them all?” -“Oh,” said Usher, “we marry our girls as soon as they grow up, we -ship our onions to Cuba, and we send our geese to college.” The first -recorded shipment, however, was not of onions. November 6, 1686, -Byfield placed a number of his horses on board the Bristol Merchant -bound for Surinam. Possibly they may have been of the Narragansett -pacer breed for which the south county was so long famous. Very early -in the town’s history, sails were turned to the coast of Africa. The -voyage was the most hazardous that could be taken, but the returns -from a successful venture were enormous. There was profit on each leg -of the voyage. The first leg was from the home port, with the hold -filled with casks of New England rum and small crates of trinkets. -One cask was ordinarily enough to secure a slave, but before the -cargo was complete, all hands were likely to be down with coast -fever. When the crew were again strong enough to work the vessel, the -“middle passage” to the West Indies was made, and the live freight, -which had been handled with as great care as are the cattle on the -Atlantic transports today, was exchanged for casks of molasses. Then -came the last leg of the voyage. The molasses was carried to Bristol -to be converted into rum. This trade the town shared with Newport and -Providence. - -No stigma whatever was attached to the slave traffic as carried on in -the seventeenth century and for the greater part of the eighteenth. -The voyages, while always dangerous, were not always profitable. The -vessels engaged in them were ordinarily small; sometimes they were -sloops of less than a hundred tons. A fleet of them could be stowed -away in the hold of a Lusitania. They had to be small and of light -draft in order to run up the shallow rivers to whose banks their -human cargo was driven. Lying at anchor in the stifling heat, with no -wind to drive away the swarming insect life, the deadly coast fever -would descend upon a ship, and, having swept away half its crew, -leave those who survived too weak to hoist the sails. The captains -were, for the most part, God fearing men, working hard to support -their families at home. One piously informs his owners that “we have -now been twenty days upon the coast and by the blessing of God shall -soon have a good cargo.” The number of negroes taken on board a ship -was never large until the trade was declared to be piratical. Then -conditions changed horribly. It did not pay to take more on board -than could be delivered in the West Indies in prime condition. They -were not packed more closely than were the crews of the privateers of -whom we shall read later on. - -Naturally not a few slaves found their way to Bristol. When the -first slave was brought there we do not know. Nathaniel Byfield, in -his will, gives directions for the disposition of his “negro slave -Rose, brought to Bristol from the West Indies in the spring of 1718.” -Quickly they became numerous. The census of 1774 records 114 blacks -in a total population of 1209, almost one-tenth. At first they lived -on the estates of their owners, and were known by his name, if they -had any surname. After the Revolutionary War, when slavery had been -abolished (mainly because it was unprofitable), they gathered into -a district by themselves on the outskirts of the town. This region -was called “Gorea” from that part of the coast of Africa with which -the slave traders were most familiar. It continued to be known as -such until the buildings of the great rubber works crowded it out of -existence in the early ’70s of the last century. - -Naturally and inevitably the town became involved in the contest that -resulted in the independence of America. The affair of the Gaspee -was the first in which her people participated. The Gaspee was an -armed schooner stationed in Narragansett Bay for the prevention of -smuggling. Smuggling was as much in vogue in American waters as in -the waters surrounding the British Isles, and was regarded with no -more disfavor in one case than in the other. The commander of the -vessel was Lieutenant Thomas Duddington, a man who was entirely -lacking in tact, and who carried himself with such haughty arrogance -as to make himself most obnoxious. One day while chasing one of -the packet sloops that plied between New York and Providence, he -ran aground on Namquit (now Gaspee) Point. His “chase” escaped and -carried the joyful tidings of his plight to Providence. At once -drummers were sent through the streets proclaiming the situation of -the vessel, and calling for volunteers to destroy her before the next -high tide. Eight long boats were furnished by John Brown, the leading -merchant of the town, which were quickly filled by a rejoicing -band. No attempt at disguise was made by those who took part in the -expedition, but the oars were muffled to enable the boats to make the -attack without being seen. As they drew near the vessel, a little -after midnight, they were joined by a whaleboat containing a party -from Bristol under the command of Captain Simeon Potter.[6] - -Their approach was discovered by the watch upon the Gaspee, and as -the boats dashed forward they were fired upon from the schooner. The -fire was at once returned by the attacking party, and the vessel was -boarded and captured after a short but desperate struggle. In this -struggle Lieutenant Duddington was wounded, though not seriously. The -crew were captured, bound and set on shore. The vessel was set on -fire and completely destroyed. Then, having been entirely successful -in their expedition, the boats rowed joyfully homeward. Those who -took part in the exploit made no effort to conceal it and some of -them even boasted of what they had done. The British Government -at once offered a large reward for information that would lead to -the conviction of the bold offenders. Some of them were among the -foremost men in the Colony and almost every one knew their names, -the name of Abraham Whipple especially being on the lips of all the -people, but no man of any character could be found to testify against -them and none of them were ever brought to trial. The affair took -place on June 10, 1772. It was the first contest in which British -blood was shed in an expedition openly organized against the forces -of the mother country, and it differed from all the other preliminary -encounters because of the character of those engaged in it. Other -outbreaks were the work of an irresponsible mob. Crispus Attucks, for -instance, who fell in the so called Boston Massacre, was a mulatto -and the men whom he led were of his type. But some of the leading -men of Rhode Island sat on the thwarts of the nine boats, and their -boldness seems almost incredible to us of the present day. It shows -that while public sentiment at Newport and New York and the other -great seats of commerce along the coast may have favored the king, -the people of the Providence Plantations were already prepared to -sever their relations with England. - -The only “lyric” to commemorate the affair came from the pen of -Captain Thomas Swan of Bristol, one of those who took part in it. His -effusion has never appeared in any history of American literature, -for good and sufficient reasons, but it is printed in full in Munro’s -“History of Bristol.” The participation of the Bristol men in the -Gaspee affair is often denied by “out of town” people. I have no -doubt respecting the matter. My own grandmother, born in 1784, the -daughter of a soldier of the Revolution who was born in 1762 and -lived until 1821, and whose grandfather, born in 1731, lived until -1817, firmly believed in it. She had had opportunities for talking -the subject over with two generations who were living on June 10, -1772. - -In January, 1881, Bishop Smith of Kentucky, born in Bristol in 1794 -and a graduate of Brown in 1816, wrote to me calling my attention -to a slight difference between the “Swan Song,” as I had given it -in my “History of Bristol,” and a version pasted upon the back of -a portrait of Thomas Swan’s father by Thomas Swan himself. Capt. -Swan was Bishop Smith’s uncle. The Bishop wrote, “I should not have -troubled you on so inconsiderable a point had not the tradition in -our family been that _the Bristol boat was manned by men in the -disguise of Narragansett Indians_.” - -When Bishop Smith penned those lines several men were living in -Bristol who had heard the story from Captain Swan’s own lips. He -delighted in telling it and was accustomed to give the names of -Bristol participants. Those names had unhappily escaped the memory of -his auditors. The correspondence on the subject of the Gaspee, which -occurred during the Revolutionary War between Abraham Whipple and -Captain Sir James Wallace, the commander of the British naval forces -in Narragansett Bay, is worthy of another reproduction: - -Wallace to Whipple: - -“You, Abraham Whipple, on the 10th June, 1772, burned his Majesty’s -vessel, the Gaspee, and I will hang you at the yard arm.--James -Wallace.” - -Whipple to Wallace: - -“To Sir James Wallace; Sir; Always catch a man before you hang -him.--Abraham Whipple.” - -On October 7, 1775, the town was bombarded by a British fleet. The -squadron consisted of three ships of war, one bomb brig, one schooner -and some smaller vessels, fifteen sail in all. They had sailed up -from Newport under the command of Sir James Wallace. A boat’s crew -was sent on shore to demand sheep from the town. As they were not -forthcoming, the boat returned to the ship and shortly afterward the -whole fleet began “a most heavy cannonading, heaving also shells and -‘carcasses’ into the town.” (Carcasses were vessels bound together -with hoops and filled with combustibles.) Singularly enough, no one -was killed, though many buildings were struck by balls. The next -morning the sheep demanded were furnished and the fleet sailed away. -An epidemic of dysentery was raging at the time, seventeen persons -having died within a fortnight; and the fact that at least one -hundred sick persons would have to be removed if the cannonading was -resumed influenced the town committee to provide the supply demanded. -One life, however, went out because of the bombardment. The Rev. John -Burt, the aged pastor of the Congregational Church, had for a long -time been sick and feeble. When the air was filled with missiles he -fled from his house, no one seeing him, and wandered away, weak and -bewildered. The next morning, as he did not appear in the meeting -house at the hour of service, his congregation went out to seek him. -They found at last him lying dead upon his face in a field of ripened -corn. - -About three years later, on Sunday, May 25, 1778, most of the houses -in the center of the town were burned by the British. Five hundred -British and Hessian soldiers landed on the “West Shore,” marched -quickly through Warren to the Kickamuit River, and there burned -seventy or more flat-boats that had been gathered together by the -colonists for the purpose of making an expedition against the enemy. -The raiders set fire to some buildings in Warren and then proceeded -along the main road to Bristol, making prisoners of the men found -in the farm houses standing near the highway. A force of perhaps -three hundred militia had been hastily gathered at Bristol to oppose -them. But, as is almost always the case, the number of the marauding -troops was greatly exaggerated and the American commanding officer -did not deem himself strong enough to oppose them. Withdrawing in -the direction of Mount Hope he left the town to their mercy. The -torch was first applied to Parson Burt’s house, which stood near the -Congregational Meeting House. - -Mr. Burt had died during the bombardment, as has been before related, -but he had been fearless in his denunciation of royal tyranny -during his life and his house was burned as a warning. Then the -other buildings southward along the main street were set on fire, -including the residence of Deputy Governor Bradford, this last being -the finest house in town. One of the Governor’s negro servants had -just begun his dinner when he saw the flames bursting forth. He was -quite equal to the occasion. Running to the burying ground on the -Common, not far away, he seated himself, frying pan in hand, upon a -tombstone and calmly finished his meal. Thirty or more buildings -were burned, among them being the edifice of the Church of England, -Saint Michael’s Church. This last structure was destroyed through -a mistake, the incendiaries supposing that they were burning the -Dissenters’ Meeting House. The sexton of Saint Michael’s refused to -believe that his church was burned. “It can’t be,” he said, “for I -have the key in my pocket.” From this time until the close of the -war the tread of marching feet was heard almost daily. The soldiers, -however, were only militiamen summoned hastily together to defend -their homes. They were poorly drilled and still more poorly armed, -the kind of soldier that springs to arms at an instant’s call. The -immediate danger having passed, they returned to their farms and -their workshops. - -Until October 25, 1779, when the British forces left Newport, the -fortunes of those who dwelt upon the Mount Hope Lands were hazardous -in the extreme. Lafayette had established his headquarters in the -north part of the town but was soon forced to remove them to “a safer -place behind Warren.” The peninsula was so easily accessible that -raids upon its shores were frequent. One result of the marauding -expeditions was the cutting down of the forests that had lined the -shores of Narragansett Bay. This was especially notable in the case -of the island of Prudence, just at the mouth of Bristol harbor. Today -the island is almost treeless, no attempt at reforestation having -been made. The people of Bristol were wise in their generation and -now from the harbor the town seems to nestle in a forest. - -The winter of 1779-80 was one of the most severe ever known in the -Colonies. For six weeks the bay was frozen from shore and the ice -extended far out to sea. Wood in most of the towns sold for $20 a -cord. The prices of all kinds of provisions soared in like manner. -Corn sold for four silver dollars a bushel and potatoes for two -dollars. What their prices were in the depreciated Rhode Island paper -currency we can only imagine. While the bay was still frozen some -of the barracks on Poppasquash, that had been used by the French -allies, were moved across the harbor on the ice. One of them is still -used as a dwelling house. It stands on the west side of High Street -just north of Bradford. From 1774 to 1782 the population of the town -decreased 14.6 per cent. More noteworthy still, in that same period -the percentage of decrease in the case of the blacks was more than -thirty per cent. - -In 1781 the town was first honored by the presence of George -Washington. He passed through it on his way to Providence. It was a -great day for the people of the place. They all turned out to greet -the hero, standing in double lines as he rode through the streets. -“Marm” Burt’s school children were especially in evidence. This lady -was the widow of the Parson Burt who had died during the bombardment. -She had sustained herself since her husband’s death by keeping a -“dame’s school.” To impress the occasion upon the minds of her pupils -she made them learn these lines: - - “In seventeen hundred and eighty-one - I saw General Washington.” - -Imagine the General’s emotions as he heard them singing the verse, at -the top of their voices of course, as he passed. - -Washington afterward made several visits to the town. In 1793 he -spent a week at the home of Governor Bradford, at “the Mount,” -Bradford being then a member of the United States Senate. The -Bradford house is still standing. - -Rhode Island was the last of the “Old Thirteen” to adopt the -Federal Constitution. Then as always she chafed at the domination -of Massachusetts. Because Bristol had been a part of Massachusetts -before it became a part of Rhode Island it was still greatly -influenced by the ideas of the “Bay Colony.” When in 1788 the -question of adopting the Constitution was submitted to the people of -Rhode Island, Bristol and Little Compton (which had also been a part -of Massachusetts) were the only towns in which a majority in favor -of the adoption was obtained. A great celebration took place in 1790 -when the State became a member of the United States of America. - -At once the energy which had lain dormant during the Revolutionary -War revived. Commerce again became active. Evidence of this was -manifested by the building of new distilleries. One, erected by the -leading firm of ship owners, was opened in 1792. They were preparing -for a renewal of the trade with Africa. For thirty-five years -thereafter two hundred gallons of rum were here each day distilled. -At one time five distilleries were in active operation. The last -of them closed its doors in 1830, the business having ceased to be -profitable. - -In the first quarter of the last century two great religious revivals -transformed the town. They began in Saint Michael’s Church in the -rectorship of Bishop Griswold. The town then numbered about two -thousand inhabitants, almost all of whom were more or less connected -with the sea. The first among the laymen to take part in the movement -was a sea captain who had just returned from a voyage to the Island -of Trinidad. Before he left Bristol, the unwonted fervor of Bishop -Griswold’s sermons and discourses had turned his thoughts toward -the attainment of the holier and higher life, whose glories the -bishop was ever placing before his people. The awful solemnity of -the ocean had completed the lesson. On Saturday night he returned -from his voyage. The next day, when the bishop had finished his -sermon, the emotions that stirred the soul of the sailor entirely -overcame the modesty that usually kept him back from the public -notice. Rising from his seat, he went forward to the old wine-glass -pulpit in which the preacher was yet standing, and conversed with -him earnestly for a few moments, while the congregation looked on -with amazement at the unusual interruption. With that benignant smile -which marked his gentle nature, Bishop Griswold assented to the -request that was preferred; and placing his hand upon the shoulder -of the eager enthusiast, he turned to the congregation and said: “My -friends, Captain ---- wishes to tell you what the Lord has done for -his soul.” Then the quiet sailor told the congregation the story of -the change that had been wrought in him; told it without a thought -of the unusual part he was assuming; told it in the simplest words, -with no attempt at eloquence or effect, but with the wondrous power -of God’s love so plainly before his eyes that the minds of all his -hearers went with him upon the sea, and felt the struggle which had -brought his soul out of darkness into light. Never, even, had the -inspired words of their pastor stirred the people of St. Michael’s -Church more strongly. When he ceased there was hardly a dry eye in -the congregation. Only a few well chosen words did the bishop add to -intensify the lesson, and then dismissed his people with the usual -benediction. - -From that day the revival became general. Through the town it spread, -until the minds of all were turned to thoughts of the life that was -to come. The sound of the workman’s hammer was unheard for a season, -the horses stood idle in their stalls, the noise of merry laughter -ceased as the crowds of serious worshippers poured onward to the -churches. For days these remarkable scenes were to be witnessed; -their effect could be observed for years. - -The second revival came in 1820. Like the first it began in Saint -Michael’s Church. It lasted for about three months. The first meeting -was held in a private house. The Rev. Dr. Stephen H. Tyng, writing -sixty years later, said: “It was with unbounded surprise that I -went into the house at the hour appointed. It was crowded in every -room, staircase and entry, as if some unusually crowded funeral were -there. But for ministering to this people, hungry for the bread of -life, I was there alone. They had placed a Bible and Prayer-book -on the first landing of the stairs. The people were crowded above -me and below me, as far as my eye could reach, in the most eager -attention to the Word. It was the most solemn assembly I had ever -seen, and its impression upon my mind and memory was overwhelming -and abiding. But this was the commencement of months of work of a -similar description, and from this day we had a similar meeting -appointed for every evening. These were held in various rooms and -houses throughout the town. The evening meetings were usually held in -the Academy Hall. My whole time for about three months was given up -to this one work. Three times every day I was engaged in addressing -different assemblies in different parts of the town and of the -surrounding country, and in conversing with awakened and anxious -persons connected with these meetings. Such a scene in human society -as Bristol then displayed, I had never imagined. The whole town was -given up to this one work. The business of the world was for a time -suspended. The stores were in many instances closed, as if the whole -week were a Sabbath.” - -As in the former case the work spread through all the churches. -Crowds came from surrounding towns to gaze upon the remarkable -spectacle the town afforded. Such revivals would now be impossible. -The busy manufacturing town of today would pay slight attention to -exhortations to which the ears that were accustomed to tales of -horrible disaster upon the ocean lent ready attention. Moreover, -the descendants of the old colonial stock are comparatively few in -number, and the new foreign element which forms the great majority of -the population is not to be moved by religious appeals as were those -whose lives were dominated by Puritan traditions. - -The maritime element always furnished the most picturesque part of -the Bristol story. Until half a century ago the boys of the town had -the names of the famous ships and the exploits of the most famous -captains at the tongue’s end. The most noted captains were Simeon -Potter, John De Wolf and James De Wolf, of whom detailed accounts -will be given later. We idealized those seamen, especially Simeon -Potter. One sailor who was not a captain but a ship’s surgeon had had -a most remarkable experience. He was an inveterate smoker and his -inordinate use of the weed once saved his life. He was shipwrecked -upon a cannibal island in the Pacific ocean. His fellow sufferers -were all eaten by their captors. Because he was so flavored with -tobacco, he was not deemed fit to be eaten at once by the savage -epicures, and so lived to be rescued. He was also a most profane man. -One day after a long attack of fever, which had wasted him almost to -a skeleton, he ventured out for a walk. Unfortunately, he had not -noted the wind. He wore a long cloak and the wind was fair and heavy. -Having once started before it, he was not able to stop, but went on, -gathering speed and scattering profanity, until friendly arms at last -rescued him, entirely exhausted except as to his supply of oaths. -Depraved boys when caught smoking sometimes brought forward his case -in extenuation of their own crime. - -Boyish sports before the introduction of baseball in the “early ’60s” -were largely nautical. As a matter of course every boy learned to -swim almost as soon as he learned to walk. Before his anxious mother -had really begun to worry about him he was diving from a bowsprit or -dropping from a yard arm. One man whom I know still regards a forced -swim of about half a mile which he took from an overturned skiff, -at the age of nine, as the most delightful episode of his career. -(He forgot to tell his mother about it until a considerable time, -i.e., the swimming season, had elapsed.) One of the amusements of -that olden time was unique. When we were about ten years old we were -wont, as soon as school was dismissed, to hasten down to the wharves, -“swarm” up the rigging of some of the vessels lying there, and having -reached the point where the shrouds stopped, to “shin up” the smooth -topmast and place our caps upon the caps of the masts. The one who -got his cap on a mast first was of course the best boy. Singularly -enough, I never remember to have proclaimed to my parents the proud -occasions when I was “it.” My great chum in those days was Benjamin -F. Tilley, who died quite recently, an Admiral in the United States -Navy and one of the best loved officers in the service. When he was -in Providence a few years ago, in command of the gunboat Newport, we -indulged largely in reminiscences of our boyhood, and among other -things “shinned” up those masts again. Very strangely Tilley could -not remember that he had ever proclaimed to his parents that he was -“it.” Modest always were the Bristol boys in the days of my youth. -Looking back upon these episodes with the added knowledge fifty -years have brought, I feel sure that if I had told my father of my -prowess, he would have said in his quiet way, “Perhaps you would -better not say anything to your mother about it,” and would have gone -away chuckling. He had been “it” himself. For we boys were simply -exemplifying the traditions of our race. We were only doing what our -forebears had done for generations. - -In the earliest years of the town the names of streets in cities -across the ocean were more familiar to its inhabitants than were -those of the towns of the other Colonies. In 1690 fifteen of its -vessels were engaged in foreign commerce, and the number of such -vessels steadily increased until the Revolutionary War. When that -struggle broke out fifty hailed from the port. Add to this the -number of craft of every description engaged in the coasting trade -and one can easily imagine the crowded condition of the harbor. Ship -building was at one time a prominent industry. Statistics are not -readily accessible but we know that from 1830 to 1856 sixty vessels -were here built and rigged. After 1856 none of any importance were -constructed until, in 1863, the Herreshoffs began to send from their -yard the yachts that were to “show their heels” to all rivals. The -decline of commerce dates from the revival of the whale fishery. In -the earliest colonial days whales were captured along the coasts of -New England by means of boats sent out from the shore whenever one -of the great fishes came in sight. This was not infrequently. (It -was a whale cast up on the shore that saved Thorfinn Karlsefni from -starvation when the Norsemen made their second visit to Vinland.) -In the year 1825 the first whaler was fitted out for a cruise. The -venture was unusually successful and other ships were quickly placed -in commission. In 1837 the arrival of sixteen vessels “from a whaling -cruise” is recorded on the books of the Custom House. The most noted -of those whalers was the General Jackson, prize of the privateer -Yankee. Of her more anon. In 1837 the Bristol whaling fleet numbered -nineteen ships. - -The bell which summoned the operatives of the first cotton mill to -their work really sounded the death knell of the shipping industry. -The man whose maritime ventures had been most profitable was quick -to recognize the fact. James De Wolf was the first of Bristolians -to transfer his capital from ships to factories. With the building -of mills agriculture began to decline though for more than half a -century onions and other vegetables continued to be exported to -the West India Islands. The erection of the great buildings of the -National Rubber Company completed the transformation of the town. - -Very different is the place from the old Puritan town of the -seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; very different indeed from the -Bristol of sixty years ago. Sixty years ago the Puritan traditions -still dominated. This fact was especially evident on Sunday. That -day was observed with the strictness of the old Puritan Sabbath. -Worldly amusements were frowned upon. Every one was expected to go to -church in the morning, and a very large proportion of the population -attended a second religious service in the afternoon or evening. If -golf had been known no one would have ventured to play it. Social -ostracism would have followed any attempt at a match game of ball. -The only foreign element was the Irish. Very nearly all the Irish -had been born on “the old sod.” Today the Irish element is almost -the dominant one and the descendants of the first immigrants are as -thoroughly American in their ideals and sentiments as are those who -trace their ancestry to the Founders of 1680. Sixty years ago there -were perhaps a dozen names upon the tax lists that were not derived -from the British Isles. No foreign tongue except the Spanish of the -frequent Cuban visitors was heard upon the streets. Today the Italian -language is everywhere heard and Italian names fill the pages of -the directory. With the Italians have come also Canadian French and -Portuguese. Walking over the “Common” one day not long ago I passed -three groups of men and boys and heard from them not one word of -English. One group was Italian, another French, the third Portuguese. - -In the olden days the business was transacted along the wharves on -Thames Street. That street was crowded with drays loaded with the -products of every land, while sailors of all nations lounged about -the water front. Today a sailor is a rare sight. The commerce has -vanished and not a vessel of any size hails from the port. Even -the pronunciation of the name of the street by the water has been -changed and most of the dwellers upon that thoroughfare do not know -that they are living upon the “Tems” street of our fathers. By day -even in summer the streets of the town are almost empty, except for -the visitors, and half the people are at work in the factories. But -there is immense life in the place yet. The population is increasing -by leaps and bounds and the wealth per capita is increasing in -the same way. When the great mill wheels cease to turn, a hurrying -throng of operatives crowds the highways. Although they are now for -the most part alien in speech and thought, their children, born in -the old colonial port, will grow up imbued with the spirit of the -place and will be Americans, Americans without the hyphen. The old -seafaring spirit still exists, though mightily transformed. No longer -do Bristol sails whiten far distant seas, no longer do the argosies -bring into the harbor the products of India, the silks of China and -Japan. From the port today go forth vessels of a very different type. -They lack the capacious holds of the olden days but they carry sails -larger than any the old captains ever dreamed of. Their business is -not to carry merchandise; they sail forth from Narragansett Bay to -lead the yachting fleets of the world. - - - - -PART I - -SIMEON POTTER AND THE PRINCE CHARLES OF LORRAINE - - -1--SIMEON POTTER - -Most famous among the names of the old sea captains of Bristol is -that of Simeon Potter. For almost half a century Potter was the most -conspicuous figure in the town in which he was born. He was also one -of the influential men in the Colony and State of Rhode Island for a -large part of that time. - -Simeon Potter was born in Bristol in the year 1720. His father was -not a man of fortune and the boy’s education was almost entirely -neglected. His letters, even in advanced age, are those of an -illiterate man who, apparently, had never attempted to remedy the -deficiencies of his youth. Perhaps this is not to be wondered at. He -went forth from Bristol an humble sailor lad whose only possessions -were a sound body and an imperious will. After a comparatively few -years spent upon the ocean he returned to his native town with a -purse overflowing with riches, a man to be looked up to for the rest -of his life. - -His wealth was acquired in “privateering,” and tales of his captures -upon the sea, and especially of his wild marauding descents upon -foreign coasts, were familiar as household words to the ears of the -Bristolians of three-quarters of a century ago. Those tales lost -nothing in the telling and in them Potter came to be endowed with -attributes he never possessed. This was especially the case with his -stature. Like Charlemagne he continued to grow taller with each fifty -years after his death. He came in time to be pictured as a giant in -size and strength, a man whose success was largely due to the might -of his arm, and not to any especial mental ability. It was not until -the narrative which follows had been brought to light that we were -able to see him as he really was, a slight man. Possibly his great -wealth rather than an overpowering personality may have been the -cause of his large influence. His fortune was estimated at a quarter -of a million dollars, which was an enormous sum for those days. - -He plunged gladly into the conflicts of the turbulent age, and by -a happy chance came forth from them all without serious injury. -When wars ceased his restless energy forced him into constant -litigations; he seemed never to be happy unless he had some legal -contest on his hands. His intense pride had much to do with this. -Like many self-made men he could brook no opposition; he exacted -from his townsmen the deference invariably rendered by seamen to the -quarter-deck, and never forgot that his success was due to his own -unaided efforts. Very soon after the Prince Charles had returned from -the raid upon Oyapoc it was visited by some officers from a British -man-of-war then lying in the harbor of Newport. They were greatly -pleased with the trim, man-o’-war appearance of the privateer and -expressed their approbation of its commander. Unfortunately they did -so with a patronizing condescension that was exceedingly galling to -the young captain. When at last one of them ventured to ask “why -he did not apply to his Majesty for a commission as the king would -undoubtedly give him a larger and better ship” he could no longer -contain himself. “When I wish for a better ship I will not ask his -Majesty for one, I will build one myself,” he said, and, turning on -his heel, left the Englishman wondering what he could have said that -seemed so offensive. - -Potter left the sea and came back to Bristol to live just after the -town had been transferred from Massachusetts to Rhode Island. He -was first chosen to represent the town in the General Assembly in -1752, and from that time until the Revolution, when he had become an -Assistant, an office corresponding to that of a Senator today, his -voice was continually heard in the colonial councils. After the war -had really begun his zeal (though not his pugnacity) seems to have -waned and he ceased to take an active part in the affairs of either -town or State. Possibly the larger ability, the increasing influence -and the more striking personality of his townsman, Governor William -Bradford, may have had something to do with Potter’s retirement from -participation in public life. - -However that may be, when the contest that was to result in the -independence of the United Colonies began he plunged into it with -immense delight. These lines in his own handwriting, preserved to -the present day by a descendant of one of his sisters (he left no -children), show clearly his mental attitude at that time: - - I love with all my heart - The independent part. - To obey the Parliament - My conscience wont consent. - I never can abide - To fight on England’s side. - I pray that God may bless - The great and Grand Congress. - This is my mind and heart - Though none should take my part - The man thats called a Tory - To plague is all my glory. - How righteous is the cause - To keep the Congress laws! - To fight against the King - Bright Liberty will bring. - Lord North and England’s King - I hope that they will swing. - Of this opinion I - Resolve to live and die - -His participation in the destruction of the Gaspee has been already -described. When the office of Major-General of the Rhode Island -Colonial Forces was created his zeal and energy had so impressed his -fellow members of the General Assembly that he was chosen to fill it. -His tenure of office must have been brief. In 1776 he had been chosen -Assistant (Assistants were elected by the vote of all the freemen of -the Colony), but he did not present himself at many meetings of the -Assembly. In fact so neglectful was he of his duties that a vote was -passed requesting his reasons for absenting himself, and demanding -his attendance at the next session. Undoubtedly the increased taxes -had something to do with it. He was the wealthiest citizen of Bristol -and one of the richest men in the Colony, and the possession of money -was his chief delight. He could not bear to see it taken away from -him even though the independence of the Colonies might thereby be -assured. (One day a young nephew was talking with him and lamenting -his apparent lack of success. “How, Captain Potter,” said he, “shall -I go to work to make money?” “Make money,” said Potter, “make money! -I would plow the ocean into pea porridge to make money.”) - -In 1777 his name appears for the last time in the Colonial Records. -At the Town Meeting held in Bristol in May of that year “Colonel -Potter was chosen Moderator, but after the usual officers were -elected he withdrew and refused to serve any longer.” A tax -collector’s account was then presented showing that he had neglected -to pay all his taxes. Three years later, May 10, 1780, it was voted -in Town Meeting “That the Assessors make enquiry and make report to -the town at the adjournment of the meeting, what part of Colonel -Potter’s taxes remain unpaid, and that Mr. Smith, the collector, be -desired to apply to the Assessors of the town of Swansey to know -at what time said Potter began to pay taxes in said town, and what -part of his personal estate has been rated from time to time in -said town.” Although he still retained his household in Bristol he -had taken up his residence in Swansey, where the rate of taxation -was considerably less than that of Bristol. In that Massachusetts -town he continued, nominally, to reside for the rest of his life. -Notwithstanding his residence in another State he still continued -a member of Saint Michael’s Church. In 1792 a vote of the Vestry -was passed, thanking him for painting the church edifice, and for -other benefactions, and in 1799 he presented a bell (with a French -inscription) to the parish. His name headed the list of vestrymen -from 1793 until his death. He died, at the age of eighty-six, -February 20, 1806, leaving no children. His estate was by will -divided among his nine sisters and their descendants. All the -beneficiaries did not fare alike. He had his favorites and his -strong prejudices. As is almost always the case popular estimate had -exaggerated the value of his property. Instead of a quarter of a -million, less than half that amount was divided among his heirs. The -inventory showed that he had made a great many “wildcat” investments. - -From his house on Thames Street the old captain was borne to his last -resting place in the burying-ground upon the Common. It was the most -impressive funeral the town had witnessed. All the people turned out -to see the long procession, and to take part in it. The privateering -exploits of his early life were again retold, the innumerable legal -battles of his later days were again recounted. Full of strife and -tumult were the centuries in which his life had been passed, stormy -and passionate his own career had been. He was perhaps the last, he -was certainly the most successful, of the old sea captains who, as -English subjects, had sailed forth from Narragansett Bay to make war -as privateersmen upon the foes of Great Britain. But among those -who followed his corpse to its final resting place were men who in -less than a decade were to sail out from Bristol harbor in a little -private armed vessel whose success as a privateer was to surpass -his wildest imaginings, a vessel that was to collect from English -merchants a tribute many times exceeding that which he had exacted -from the enemies of England. The story of that vessel will be told in -the last chapter of this book. - -Potter was most noted for his raid upon the coast of French Guiana -of which an account follows. He was captain of a typical American -privateer when Narragansett Bay was noted throughout the Colonies as -a nursery of privateersmen. Rhode Island furnished more privately -armed vessels for the service of the mother country during the -eighteenth century than did any other American Colony. From the year -1700 to the Revolution at least one hundred and eighty such ships -sailed out from its ports. They were long and narrow, crowded with -seamen for their more speedy handling, and manœuvered with a skill -that placed the slower ships of the French and Spaniards entirely at -their mercy. They carried long guns which enabled them to disable -their adversaries at a distance, thus preventing their enemies from -inflicting any damage in return. Because built for speed they were -of light construction. A broadside from a man-of-war would have gone -crashing through their hulls and sent them at once to the bottom of -the sea, but the seamanship of their captains always kept them out of -reach of such a broadside. Their greatest danger was from the gales -that drove them upon a rocky coast. Then no skill of their captains -could save them. Their slight frames were quickly broken to pieces, -sometimes with the loss of every man on board. The Prince Charles of -Lorraine was wrecked upon the rocks of Seaconnet Point not long after -the voyage herein described. - -The kind of warfare in which they engaged would not now be regarded -as honorable, yet it was then approved by all nations. Not only did -they seek prizes upon the ocean; a descent upon the coast of the -enemy, a plundering of a rich town especially if it was undefended, -was an exploit from which they derived the liveliest satisfaction. -They preferred that kind of an expedition, for, as was always the -case with private armed ships, their aim was simply to acquire -wealth for themselves, not to inflict unprofitable damage upon their -adversaries. Privateering was only a species of legalized piracy as -far as these raids were concerned. Happily the ruthless bloodshed -and the outrages which characterized the raids of the buccaneers -and other pirates were never charged against sailors on the legally -commissioned private armed ships. Their trade was brutal but they -carried it on with the approbation of their fellow men because it was -a custom that had prevailed from time immemorial. - -Very rarely have records of their raids been preserved, more rarely -still accounts written by their victims. The one which follows was -discovered and made public some three-quarters of a century ago by -Bishop Kip of California. At the sale of a famous library in England -he purchased a set of the “Letters of Jesuit Missionaries from -1650-1750,” bound in fifty or more volumes. In 1875 he published a -volume containing translations of the letters relating especially to -American history. From this volume, which has long been out of print, -the following account is taken. - -The owners of the Prince Charles of Lorraine were Sueton Grant, -Peleg Brown and Nathaniel Coddington, Jr., of Newport. Simeon Potter -of Bristol was her captain, and Daniel Brown of Newport was her -lieutenant. Among the Bristol men on the privateer were Mark Anthony -De Wolf (founder of the family destined to become most famous in -the history of the town), clerk; Benjamin Munro, master; Michael -Phillips, pilot; William Kipp and Jeffrey Potter, the last being -probably an Indian slave of Potter. Upon her return from her cruise -Captain Potter was summoned before an admiralty court, having been -accused of certain high handed, not to say illegal proceedings. Among -other things he was charged with having fired upon a Dutch vessel -while his ship was lying at anchor in Surinam, Dutch Guiana. He -proved to the satisfaction of the court that he had fired upon the -Dutch ship at the request of the Captain of the Port, in order to -“bring her to,” his own ship being between the vessel and the fort at -the time and so preventing the fire of the fort. The admiralty judge -decided that Potter had not been guilty of the offences charged, -and that he had shown zeal and enterprise worthy of commendation -and imitation. The trial proceedings combined with Father Fauque’s -narrative give a complete history of the cruise. - -The privateer sailed from Newport September 8, 1744, and arrived at -“Wiopock, twelve leagues to the windward of Cyan,” October 28. Up -to that time she had taken no prizes. Upon his arrival Potter took -thirty-two men and made a descent upon the town. They reached it -at midnight and were at once fired upon by its garrison, Captain -Potter receiving a bullet in his left arm. Of course they took the -fort; garrisons in the tropics were never equal to privateersmen -as fighters. They took some twenty prisoners (the other defenders -having promptly fled), six cannon and from sixty to seventy small -arms. They remained at Wiapock twelve days while they sacked the -town, taking from it everything of value. Some of the company were -sent up the river to plunder plantations. All things taken were -carried to Barbadoes and there condemned as French property, with -the exception of some slaves detained at Surinam and some personal -property which Potter sold at a “vandue” on his ship. Having stripped -Wiapock (the name of the place was Oyapoc but American and English -captains were never strong on spelling) to their hearts’ content, -they sailed to “Cyann” (Cayenne) and dropped anchor at that place -November 11. There they tarried four or five days, during which they -sent plundering expeditions up the river. One of these came to grief -on a shoal. The twelve men who manned the boat were attacked by one -hundred and thirty soldiers, three of them were killed, four were -wounded and the others carried to Cyann fort as prisoners. Thereupon -Potter sent a flag of truce to propose an exchange of prisoners. The -exchange was arranged and among those returned by the Americans was -“a priest,” Father Fauque. Then the Prince Charles sailed to Surinam -well satisfied with what had been accomplished. At Surinam Captain -Potter gave an entertainment to two English merchants and some -masters of ships that were at anchor in the port. Seamen of that day -were not always total abstainers and after the banquet the “vandue” -was had of which mention has already been made. The prices obtained -for the plunder were doubtless satisfactory for the most part to the -sellers, but not in all cases. The goods sold “to the value of thirty -or forty pieces of eight.” They belonged to the “company” and the -captain purchased many of them on his own account thereby furnishing -cause for the suit brought against him on his return to Rhode Island, -from which suit he came out triumphant. Immediately after the sale -the seamen demanded their share of the proceeds. Captain Potter told -them they were still in debt to the owners for advances made and as -his arguments were enforced by a drawn sword they were admitted to be -valid. - -In his testimony before the admiralty court the Indian, Jeffrey -Potter, was more specific as to the plunder secured at Wiapock than -any other witness. He testified that they took seven Indians and -three negroes, twenty large spoons or ladles, nine large ladles, one -gold and one silver hilted sword, one gold and one silver watch, -two bags of money, quantity uncertain; chests and trunks of goods, -etc., gold rings, buckles and buttons, silver candlesticks, church -plate both gold and silver, swords, four cannon, sixty small arms, -ammunition, provisions, etc. But the wealth secured on this raid -could not have been very great. French Guiana at the present time -has a population of only 30,000, of whom 12,500 live at Cayenne. The -number of people then living at Oyapoc was much smaller than the -population of today. The town burned by the marauding expedition sent -up the river contained not more than seventy houses, and anyone -who has visited the countries lying along the north coast of South -America knows that “the wealth of the tropics” is a wild figure of -speech as far as the house furnishings are concerned. - -Equally wild are some of the accounts of the raid. One writer states -that “there can be no doubt that in this cruise Captain Potter -and his command invaded and desolated 1500 miles of the enemy’s -territory; that on the Spanish Main in his march he visited churches -and dwellings, and brought from the field of his exploits large -amounts of booty.” This writer was but repeating the tale as it had -been told him in his childhood. He had never deemed it necessary to -verify it. If he had considered the matter he would have realized -that French Guiana is not a part of the Spanish Main at all, and a -glance at the map would have shown him that between Cayenne and the -mouth of the Orinoco River, where technically the “Spanish Main” -begins, lie the hundreds of miles of coastline of Dutch and British -Guiana. No privateer of the size of the Prince Charles could possibly -have carried provisions and water sufficient for such a cruise if the -expedition had been made in the vessel itself, and no ship’s crew of -the size of that which Potter commanded could, by any stretch of the -imagination, have made such a journey overland. Moreover no mention -whatever of the Spanish Main, or of booty except that obtained at -Cyann and Wiapock, is to be found in the records of the admiralty -court. The statement affords an excellent illustration of the -astounding growth of popular traditions. - - -2--LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE - - LETTER _of Father Fauque, Missionary of the Society of - Jesus, to Father ----, of the same Society, containing an Account of - the Capture of Fort d’Oyapoc by an English pirate_.[7] - - - _At_ CAYENNE, _the 22d of December, 1744_. - -MY REVEREND FATHER,--The peace of our Lord be with you! I -will make you a partaker of the greatest happiness I have experienced -in my life, by informing you of the opportunity I had of suffering -something for the glory of God. - -I returned to Oyapoc on the 25th of October last. Some days -afterwards, I received at my house Father d’Autilhac, who had -returned from his mission to Ouanari, and Father d’Huberlant, who -is settled at the confluence of the rivers Oyapoc and Camoppi, -where he had formed a new mission. Thus we found ourselves, three -missionaries, together; and we were enjoying the pleasure of a -reunion, so rare in these countries, when divine Providence, to try -us, permitted the occurrence of one of those wholly unexpected events -which in one day destroyed the fruit of many years’ labor. I will -relate it, with all the attending circumstances. - -Scarcely had war been declared between France and England, when the -English were sent from North America to cruise among the islands to -the leeward of Cayenne. They determined to touch there, in the hope -of capturing some vessel, pillaging some dwellings, and above all, -of obtaining some news of the “Senau,” which was lost not long since -near the river Maroni. Having gone too far south, and the water -giving out, they approached Oyapoc to obtain some. We should have -been naturally informed of it, either by the Indians, who go out -frequently to hunt or fish, or by the guard, which our commander had -prudently posted upon a mountain at the mouth of the river, whence -they could see to the distance of three or four leagues. But, on the -one hand, the Aroüas Indians, who came from Mayacorè to Ouanari, -having been seized by the English, gave them information of the -little colony of Oyapoc, of which they were ignorant, and on which -they had no designs when leaving their own country. On the other -hand, the sentinels who were on guard, and who should have been our -security, themselves acted as guides to those who surprised us. -Thus every thing united to cause us to fall into the hands of these -pirates.[8] - -Their chief was Captain Simeon Potter, a native of New England, -fitted out to cruise with a commission from Williems Guéene, -Governor of Rodelan,[9] and commanding the vessel “Prince Charles of -Lorraine,” of ten cannon, twelve swivel-guns, and a crew of sixty-two -men. They cast anchor on the 6th of November, and began taking in -water at the mountain d’Argent. (This is the name of the country on -the inner side of the bay formed by the river d’Oyapoc.) On the 7th, -their long-boat, returning to the ship, saw a canoe of Indians, which -was coming from Cape Orange. (This is the cape which forms the other -point of the bay.) The English pursued them, frightened them by a -discharge of their gun, seized them, and carried them on shipboard. -The next day, having seen a fire during the night on another -mountain, which is called Mount Lucas, they sent and seized two young -men who were placed there as sentinels. They might have had time to -come and inform us; but one of them, a traitor to his country, did -not wish to do so. - -After having in this way learned the situation, the force, and -generally everything which related to the post of Oyapoc, they -determined to surprise it. They attempted the enterprise in the -night, between the 9th and 10th. But, fearing lest daylight might -overtake them before their arrival, they turned back, and kept -themselves concealed during all the day of the 10th. The following -night they took their measures better. They arrived a little after -the setting of the moon, and, guided by the two young Frenchmen, they -landed about a hundred yards from the fort of Oyapoc. - -The sentinel at first took them for Indians or negroes, who came and -went at all hours during the night. He challenged them, but they made -no reply, and he then at once concluded they were enemies. Every one -woke up in surprise; but the English were within the place before -any one had time to collect his thoughts. For myself, who was living -outside the fort, and was roused by the first cry of the sentinel, -having opened my door, I saw them file by in great haste; and, not -being myself perceived, I immediately ran to awaken our Fathers. - -So unexpected a surprise in the middle of a dark night, the weakness -of the post, the few soldiers there to defend it (for there were not -at that time more than ten or twelve men), the frightful shouts of a -multitude which we supposed, as was natural, more numerous than it -really was, the vivid and terrible fire which they kept up with their -guns and pistols on entering the place,--all these things induced -each one, by a first impulse of which he was not himself master, to -take to flight, and conceal himself in the woods which surrounded us. -Our commander, however, fired and wounded in the left arm the English -captain, a young man about thirty years of age. What is singular, the -captain was the only one wounded on either side. - -Our two missionaries, however, who had no spiritual charge at this -post, and one of whom, through his zeal and friendship, wished to -remain at my place, pressed by my solicitations, took refuge in the -depths of the forest, with some Indians of their attendants and all -our servants. For myself, I remained in my house, which was distant -from the fort about a hundred yards, having resolved to go first to -the church to consume the consecrated wafer, and afterwards to carry -spiritual aid to the French, supposing that some of them had been -wounded there; as I thought, certainly not without reason, after -having heard so much firing of guns, that our people had made some -resistance. - -I went out, therefore, to execute the first of these projects; when -a negro servant, who, through goodness of heart and fidelity (rare -qualities among the slaves), had remained with me, represented to me -that I would certainly be discovered, and they would not fail to fire -at me in the first heat of the contest. I yielded to these reasons, -and, as I only remained to render to my flock all the services -demanded by my ministry, I felt scruples at uselessly exposing -myself, and determined to wait until break of day to show myself. - -You can easily imagine, my Reverend Father, what a variety of -emotions agitated me during the remainder of that night. The air -ceaselessly resounded with cries and shouts and yells, and with -the discharge of guns and pistols. Presently I heard the doors -and windows of the houses opened, and the furniture overthrown -with a great crash; and, as I was sufficiently near to distinguish -perfectly the noise they made in the church, I was suddenly seized -with an inward horror in the fear lest the Holy Sacrament might -be profaned. I would have given a thousand lives to prevent this -sacrilege; but there was not time. Nevertheless, to hinder it by the -only way which remained to me, I inwardly addressed myself to Jesus -Christ, and earnestly prayed Him to guard His adorable Sacrament -from the profanation which I feared. What took place was in a way so -surprising that it may reasonably be regarded as a miracle. - -During all this tumult, my negro, who was perfectly aware of the -danger we were running, and who had not the same reason with myself -for this voluntary exposure, frequently proposed to me to take to -flight. But I was unable to do so. I knew too well the obligations -of my office; and I could only wait for the moment when it would be -in my power to go to the fort, and see in what state were the French -soldiers, the greater part of whom I supposed to be either dead or -wounded. I said, therefore, to the slave that on this occasion he was -his own master; that I could not force him to remain with me; but -that, nevertheless, I should be pleased if he did not abandon me. I -added that, if he had any grievous sin on his conscience, it would -be best for him to confess it, to be prepared for any contingency, -since he was not certain but what they might take away his life. This -conversation made an impression on him, so that he recovered courage -and remained firm. - -As soon as day dawned, I ran to the church, creeping through the -underwood; and, although they had sentinels and marauders on every -side, I had the good fortune not to be seen. As I entered the -sacristy, which I found open, tears filled my eyes when I saw the -cupboard for the vestments and linen, where also I kept the chalice -and the sacred vessels, broken open and shattered, and many of the -vestments scattered here and there. I went into the choir of the -church, where I saw the altar half uncovered, and the cloths thrown -together in a heap. I examined the tabernacle, and found they had not -noticed a little piece of cotton, which I was accustomed to place -at the opening of the lock to prevent the _ravers_ from getting -into it. (This is an insect very common in the islands, which only -comes out at night, and is very similar to the gadfly.) I supposed -that the door was also broken open; but, placing my hand upon it, I -found that it had not been touched. Overcome with wonder and joy and -thankfulness, I took the key which these heretics had had under their -hands. I opened it with reverence, and partook of the Sacrament, -very uncertain whether I should ever again have that blessing; for -what has not a man of my profession to fear from pirates, and these -pirates, too, being English? - -After I had thus received the Sacrament, I fell on my knees to -return thanks; and I told my negro to go in the mean while into my -chamber, which was near at hand. He went there; but, in returning, -was seen and arrested by a sailor. The slave begged for mercy, and -the Englishman did not do him any harm. I showed myself then at the -door of the sacristy, and immediately saw that I was aimed at. It was -necessary, therefore, to surrender; so I came forward, and we took -together the way to the fort. When we entered the place, I saw every -face expressing the greatest joy, each one congratulating himself -that they had captured a priest. - -The first one who approached me was the captain himself. He was a man -small in stature, and not in any respect differing from the others -in dress. He had his left arm in a sling, a sabre in his right hand, -and two pistols in his belt. As he was acquainted with some words of -French, he told me “that I was very welcome; that I had nothing to -fear, as no one would attempt my life.” - -In the mean while, M. de Lage de la Landerie, Writer of the king, -and our storekeeper, having appeared, I asked him in what condition -were our people, and if many of them were killed or wounded. He -answered me that they were not; that of our soldiers he had seen only -the sergeant and one sentinel, and that on neither side was any one -wounded but the English captain alone, in whose power we now were. I -was delighted to learn that our commander, the officers, and their -soldiers, had sufficient time to escape; and as by this fact the -reasons which had induced me to remain no longer existed, and as my -personal ministry was not necessary, I should have much preferred -being at liberty, and, could I have done so, would have retreated. -But I could not longer dream of that; and at that very moment two of -our soldiers, who were found concealed, were seized, and increased -the number of our prisoners. - -At length dinner-time came. I was invited, but I certainly had no -inclination to eat. I knew that our soldiers and the two missionary -Fathers were in the depth of the forest, without clothes, food, or -aid. I had no news of them, nor was I able to procure any. This -reflection overwhelmed me; it was necessary, however, to accept their -repeated invitations, which seemed to me to be sincere. - -Scarcely had the meal commenced, when I saw arriving the first -plunder they had made at my house. It was natural that I should be -moved. Indeed, I showed it; so that the captain said to me, as an -excuse for himself, that the King of France had first declared war -against the King of England, and that in consequence of it the French -had already taken, pillaged, and burned an English post named Campo, -near Cape Breton, and that several persons, including children, had -been smothered in the flames. - -I answered him that, without wishing to enter into the detail of the -affairs of Europe, our respective kings being to-day at war, I did -not take it amiss; but was only surprised that he should have come -to attack Oyapoc, which was not worth the trouble.[11] He replied -that he himself exceedingly regretted having come here, as this delay -might cause him to miss two merchant vessels, richly loaded, which -were on the point of sailing from the harbor of Cayenne. I then said -to him that, since he saw for himself how inconsiderable was this -post, and that he had scarcely any thing to gain from it, I prayed -him to accept a reasonable ransom, for my church, myself, my negro, -and every thing belonging to me. This proposition was reasonable, -but was, nevertheless, rejected. He wished that I should treat with -him for the fort and all its dependencies. But I bade him observe -that this was not a fit proposition to make to a simple priest; that, -besides, the Court of France had so little regard for the post that -recent news from Paris had apprised us that it would be abandoned -as soon as practicable. “Well,” said he, in a spiteful way, “since -you do not wish to entertain my proposition, we must continue our -depredations, and make reprisals for all that the French have done -against us.” - -They continued, therefore, to transport from our houses furniture, -clothes, provisions, all with a disorder and confusion that was -remarkable. What gave me the deepest pain was to see the sacred -vessels[12] in these profane and sacrilegious hands. I collected -myself for a moment, and, awakening all my zeal, I told them what -reason and faith and religion inspired me to say in the most forcible -manner. With words of persuasion I mingled motives of fear for so -criminal a profanation. The example of Belshazzar was not forgotten; -and I am able to say to you with truth, my Reverend Father, that I -saw many moved, and disposed to return these articles to me; but -cupidity and avarice prevailed, and on the same day all the silver -was packed up and carried aboard the vessel.[13] - -The captain, more susceptible of feeling than all the others, as he -had always seemed to me, told me that he would willingly yield to me -what he was able to return, but that he had no control over the will -of the others; that all the crew having part in the booty, he was -not able, as captain, to dispose of any but his own share; but that -he would do all that was in his power to induce the others to agree -to what I proposed. This was to pay them at Cayenne, or at Surinam -(a Dutch colony, which was not far distant, and where, they told me, -they wished to go), or even in Europe by bills of exchange, for the -value of the silver in the sacred vessels. But he was not able to -obtain any thing. - -Some time afterwards, the first lieutenant asked me, through an -interpreter, “what induced me to surrender myself to them?” I replied -to him, “that the persuasion I was under that some of our soldiers -had been wounded had determined me to remain for their relief.” “And -did you not fear being killed?” he added. “Yes, without doubt,” I -said; “but the fear of death is not capable of stopping a minister of -Jesus Christ, when he should discharge his duty. Every true Christian -is obliged to sacrifice his life rather than commit a sin; and I -should have thought that I was guilty of a very great one, if, having -charge of souls in my parish, I had entirely abandoned them in their -peril. You know, indeed,” I continued, “you Protestant people, who -pride yourselves so much on reading the Scriptures, that it is only -the hireling shepherd who flees before the wolf when he attacks the -sheep.” At this discourse they looked at one another, and seemed -to me to be entirely astonished. This lesson is, without doubt, -something a little different from that of their pretended Reformation. - -For myself, I was all the while uncertain with regard to my own -fate, and I saw that I had every thing to fear from such people. I -addressed myself, therefore, to the holy guardian angels, and I began -a _Novena_[14] in their honor, not doubting but they would cause -something to turn to my advantage. I prayed them to assist me in -this difficult emergency in which I found myself; and I should say -here, to give a higher sanction to this devotion, so well known and -so established in the usage of the Church, what I have recognized -in my own particular case, that I have received each day the signal -blessings of God, through the intercession of these heavenly spirits. - -However, as soon as night approached,--that is to say, towards six -o’clock, for that is the time at which the sun sets here during the -whole year,--the English drum commenced beating. They assembled -on the Place, and posted their sentinels on all sides. That being -done, the rest of the crew, as long as the night lasted, did not -cease eating and drinking. For myself, I was constantly visited in -my hammock, since they feared, without doubt, that I would try to -escape. In this way they were mistaken; for two reasons detained -me. The first was, that I had given them my parole, by which I had -again constituted myself their prisoner, and I could not go out of -their hands except by means of exchange or ransom. The second was, -that, as long as I remained with them, I had some slight hope that -I might recover the sacred vessels, or at least the vestments and -other furniture of my church. As soon as it was day, the pillage -recommenced, with the same confusion and the same disorder as the -day before. Each carried to the fort whatever happened to fall into -his hands, and threw it down in a pile. One arrived wearing an old -cassock; another in a woman’s petticoat; a third with the crown of -a bonnet on his head. It was the same with those who guarded the -booty. They searched in the heap of clothes, and when they found any -thing which suited their fancy,--as a peruke, a laced _chapeau_, -or a dress,--they immediately put it on, and made three or four -turns through the room, with great satisfaction, after which they -resumed their fantastical rags. They were like a band of monkeys or -of savages, who had never been away from the depths of the forest. -A parasol or a mirror, the smallest article of furniture a little -showy, excited their admiration. This did not surprise me, when I -learned that they had scarcely any communication with Europe, and -that Rodelan was a kind of little republic, which did not pay any -tribute to the King of England, which elected its own governor every -year, and which had not even any silver money, but only notes for -daily commerce; for this is the impression I gained from all they -told me.[15] - -In the evening, the lieutenant informed himself of every thing which -related to the dwellings of the French along the river,--how many -there were of them, at what distances they were, how many inhabitants -each had, &c. Afterwards, he took with him ten men, and one of the -young Frenchmen who had already served as guide to surprise us; and, -after having made all the necessary preparations, they set out, and -went up the river. But they found nothing, or very few articles, -because the colonists, having been warned by our fugitives, had -placed all their effects in concealment, and particularly their -negroes, who, more than any thing else, excited the cupidity of the -English. Finding themselves thus disappointed in their hopes, they -spent their anger on the buildings, which they burned, without, -however, injuring the plantations. This, however, caused us to -suspect that they had some intentions of returning. - -As to those of us who were in the fort, we spent this night very -much like the preceding,--the same agitations, the same excesses on -the part of our enemies, and the same disquietude on our part. The -second lieutenant, who was left in command, did not lose sight of -me, fearing, without doubt, that I wished to profit by the absence -of the captain and the first lieutenant to make my escape. I had a -great deal of difficulty in reassuring them on this point, and could -not convince them. People of this kind, accustomed to judge others -by themselves, are not able to imagine that an honorable man, that a -priest, was able and obliged to keep his parole in such a case. - -When the day dawned, he seemed a little less uneasy on my account. -Towards eight o’clock, they all placed themselves at table; and, -after a miserable repast, one of them attempted to enter into a -controversy with me. He put many questions to me about Confession, -about the worship which we gave to the Cross, to images, &c. “Do you -confess your parishioners?” he presently asked me. - -“Yes,” I replied, “whenever they come to me; but they do not do so as -often as they should, or as I could wish them, for the zeal I have -for the salvation of their souls.” - -“And do you really think,” he added, “that their sins are remitted as -soon as they have declared them to you?” - -“No, assuredly,” I said to him; “a mere confession is not sufficient -to produce this. It is necessary that it should be accompanied by a -true sorrow for the past and a sincere resolution for the future, -without which auricular Confession will have no efficacy to blot out -sins.” - -“And as to the images and the Cross,” he replied, “do you think that -the prayer would be equally efficacious without this, which is the -external of religion?” - -“The prayer is good, without doubt,” I answered him; “but permit me -to ask you, with regard to yourself, why in families do they preserve -the portraits of a father, a mother, or their ancestors? Is it not -principally to awaken their own remembrances in thinking of the -benefits they have received from them, and to animate them to follow -their good examples? For it is not exactly the picture which they -honor, but it brings back to them all which it represents. In the -same manner, you need not imagine that we Roman Catholics adore the -wood or the brass; but we use it to nourish, so to say, our devotion. -For how could a reasonable being remain unaffected while beholding -the figure of a God dying on the Cross for His love to us? What -effect may not be produced on the soul and the heart by the image of -a martyr who is giving his life for Jesus Christ?” - -“Oh, I do not understand it so,” said the Englishman to me; and -I well knew from his manner that their ministers deceive them in -telling them that the Papists, as they call us, superstitiously -reverence and adore the Cross and the images, valuing them for -themselves.[16] - -I was anxiously waiting for the return of those who had been to visit -the dwellings, when they came to me to say that it was necessary -I should go on board the ship, as Captain Potter wished to see me -and speak with me. I had done every thing in my power by urging, -soliciting, and representing, as earnestly as I was able, all the -reasons I had for not embarking so soon. But I could gain nothing, -and I was obliged to obey in spite of myself. The commander of the -party on shore, who, in the absence of the others, was the second -lieutenant, when I came to speak to him on this point, taking hold of -his tongue with one hand, and with the other making a semblance of -piercing or cutting it, gave me to understand that, if I said any -more, I might expect bad treatment. I had reason to think that he was -annoyed at the strong and pathetic address I had made with regard to -the profanation of the ornaments of the church and the sacred vessels. - -We embarked, therefore, towards three o’clock in the afternoon, in a -canoe; and, although the ship was not much more than three leagues -distant (the captain having now caused it to enter the river), we -nevertheless only reached it in about eight hours, in consequence -of the remissness of the rowers, who were constantly drinking. When -at a great distance I saw the hull of the vessel by the light of -the moon, it seemed to me to be entirely out of the water. It had, -indeed, run aground on the shore, and had only a depth of three feet -of water. This was the occasion of great alarm to me; for I imagined -that this might be the fault of my negro, whom they had selected as -one of the pilots, and I thought that the captain had sent to seek me -to make me bear the penalty which my slave merited, or at least that -I should perish with the others in case the ship should be wrecked. -What confirmed me for some time in this sad supposition was the -little degree of welcome I received; but I have since been informed -that there was no design in this, and that the cold reception which -alarmed me was caused by the fact that they were all busy in working -the vessel, to relieve themselves as soon as possible from the -uncomfortable position in which they were. - -As soon as our canoe had reached the ship, I saw descending and -coming to me a young man, who murdered the French language in some -little attempt to speak it, and who took my hand, kissed it, and -informed me that he was an Irishman and a Roman Catholic. He even -made the sign of the Cross, which he did indifferently well; and he -added that, in right of his office as second gunner, he had a berth -which he wished to give me, and that, if any one should take it into -his head to show me the least disrespect, he well knew how to avenge -it. This introduction, though shared in by a man who seemed to be -very drunk, did not fail to tranquillize me somewhat. He gave me his -hand, to aid me in climbing up to the deck by means of the ropes. -Scarcely had I mounted thither when I encountered my negro. I asked -him at once why he caused the ship to run aground, and was reassured -when he told me that it was the fault of the captain, who was -obstinate in holding his course in the middle of the river, although -he had repeatedly told him that the channel ran near the shore. At -the same time the captain appeared on the quarter-deck, and told -me, with great coldness, to go down into the cabin, after which he -continued to devote himself to working the vessel. - -My Irishman, however, did not leave me, but, sitting at the door, -renewed his protestations of good-will, assuring me always that he -was a Roman Catholic; that he wished to confess before I left the -ship; that he had formerly received the Sacrament, &c. And, as in -all his conversation, he constantly mingled invectives against the -English nation, they made him leave me, forbidding him to speak with -me for the future, under penalty of chastisement. He received this -with a very bad grace; swearing, blustering, and protesting that he -would speak with me in spite of them. - -However, he went away; and scarcely had he gone when another came, -as drunk as the first, and, like him, too, an Irishman. He was the -surgeon, who at first addressed me with some Latin words,--_Pater, -misereor_. I attempted to reply to him in Latin; but I soon found -that these words constituted the whole of his knowledge of the -language; and, as he was no better acquainted with French, we could -hold no conversation together. - -In the mean while it grew late, and I felt sleepiness pressing on -me, having scarcely closed my eyes during the preceding nights. I -did not know where to go to obtain a little repose. The ship was so -careened over that it was necessary to be continually fastened to -prevent one’s self rolling. I wanted to lie down in one of the three -berths; but I did not dare, for fear some one would immediately force -me to leave it. The captain saw my embarrassment, and, touched with -the miserable figure we made, sitting on the chests,--the storekeeper -and myself,--he told us we could lodge in the berth at the bottom -of the cabin. He even added, politely, that he regretted not being -able to give one to each, but his ship was too small to do so. I very -willingly accepted his offer, and we arranged for ourselves as well -as we could on a pile of rags. - -Notwithstanding all the disquietudes of my situation, I was drowsy -from weariness, and during the night slept half the time. Being half -the time awake, I perceived that the vessel had begun moving. It -insensibly floated; and, to prevent it from afterwards settling down -again, they drove two yard-arms into the mud, one on each side, which -should hold the hull of the vessel in equilibrium. - -As soon as day came, and it was necessary to take some nourishment, -I had a new source of torment, for the water was so offensive that I -was not able even to taste it. The Indians and negroes, who certainly -are not at all fastidious, preferred to drink the water of the -river, however muddy and brackish it may be. I inquired, therefore, -of the captain why he did not procure other water, since very near -this was a spring, to which I was accustomed to send to procure the -water I used at the fort. He made no reply, thinking, perhaps, that -I wished to lead him into some ambush. But, after having thoroughly -questioned the French, the negroes, and the Indians, whom he had -taken prisoners, he determined to send the long-boat to land, with my -slave. It made many trips during that and the following days; so that -we all had the pleasure of having good water, although many scarcely -used it, preferring the wine and rum which they had on the deck at -will. - -I ought, however, to say in commendation of the captain that he was -entirely sober. He even frequently expressed to me the pain he felt -at the excesses of his crew, to whom, according to the custom of -these pirates, he was obliged to allow an abundance of liberty. He -made me afterwards a disclosure, which was sufficiently pleasant. - -“Monsieur,” he said to me, “do you know that tomorrow, being the -fifth of November, according to our method of computation” [for we -French people count it to be the fifteenth], “the English have a -great festival?” - -“And what is the festival?” I asked him. - -“We burn the Pope,” he answered, laughing. - -“Explain to me,” I said; “what is this ceremony?” - -“They dress up in a burlesque style,” he said, “a kind of ridiculous -figure, which they call the Pope, and which they afterwards burn, -while singing some ballads; and all this is in commemoration of the -day when the Court of Rome separated England from its communion.[17] -To-morrow,” he continued, “our people who are on shore will perform -this ceremony at the fort.” - -After a while, he caused his pennon and flag to be hoisted. The -sailors manned the yard-arms, the drum was beaten, they fired the -cannon, and all shouted, five times, “Long live the King!” This -having been done, he called one of the sailors, who, to the great -delight of those who understood his language, chanted a very long -ballad, which I judged to be the recital of all this unworthy story. -You see in this, my Reverend Father, an instance which fully confirms -what all the world knew before, that heresy always pushes to an -extreme its animosity against the visible Head of the Church. - -During the night a large boat came to us, manned by rowers. The -captain, who was always on his guard, and who was not able to lay -aside the idea that our people were seeking to surprise him, caused -them immediately to clear the decks. They at once fired their -swivel-gun; but the boat, having made its signal, all was again -quiet. It was the lieutenant, who had been to plunder the dwellings -along the river. He reported that he had only visited two or three -plantations, which he had found entirely deserted. He added that he -was going to ascend the river again, to consign every thing to the -flames. In fact, after having supped and had sufficient consultation -with his principal, he departed again. I asked permission to go with -him as far as the fort to look for my papers, but it was refused -me. However, to soften a little the pain which this denial gave me, -Captain Potter promised that he himself would go thither with me. I -therefore summoned up my patience, and endeavored by a little sleep -to repair the loss of the preceding night; but it was useless. The -noise, the confusion, and the bad smells did not allow me to close my -eyes. - -On Sunday morning, I waited to see some religious service, for up to -this time I had not recognized any mark of Christianity; but every -thing went on as usual, so that I could not refrain from showing my -surprise. The captain told me “that in their sect each one worshipped -God in his own way; that they had among them, as elsewhere, the good -and the bad; and that ‘he who acted right would be approved.’” At the -same time he took out of his chest a book of devotion; and I noticed -that, during this day and the following Sunday, he occasionally -looked at it.[19] As he always seemed to me to be very reasonable, -I took pains, from time to time, to introduce into my conversation -some word of controversy or of morality, which he received very well, -having explained to him by the interpreters what he did not himself -understand. He even told me one day “that he did not wish longer to -pursue the business of privateering; that God might to-day give him -property, which, perhaps, might shortly be taken away from him by -others; that he was well aware he should take nothing away with him -in dying; but, nevertheless, I should not expect to find more piety -in a French, or even in a Spanish, privateer than I saw in his ship; -because these sorts of armaments were scarcely compatible with the -exercises of devotion,” I confess to you, my Reverend Father, that I -was astonished to hear such sentiments in the mouth of an American -Huguenot[20]; for every one knows how entirely this part of the world -is removed from the kingdom of God and every thing which can lead to -it. I have often exhorted him to pray the Lord for light, and that He -would not allow him to die in the darkness of heresy, in which he had -the misfortune to be born and brought up. - -As the boats were constantly going and coming, from the shore to the -vessel and from the vessel to the shore, transporting the pillage, -one came that very evening, bringing a French soldier and five -Indians. He was one of our soldiers, who, fifteen days before, had -been to seek the Indians to engage them to work, and, not knowing -that the English were masters of the fort, had run into their hands. -I represented to Captain Potter that, as the Indians were free among -us, he neither ought to nor could take them prisoners, particularly -as they had not been found with arms in their hands. But he answered -me “that this kind of people were used for slaves in Rodelan, and -that he should take them thither in spite of all that I could say.” -He has, in fact, carried them away, with the Aroüas whom he had first -captured in the Bay of Oyapoc. Perhaps he has a fancy to return to -this country, and intends to use these miserable beings in making his -descent on the coast, or perhaps he will release them at Surinam. - -I had, nevertheless, on Monday morning, reminded him of the promise -he had made me that he would take me on shore; but he was not then -able to do any thing, and I was obliged to content myself with fair -words, so that I despaired of ever again visiting my old home. On -Tuesday, however, he came to me to say that, if I wished to go to -the fort, he would take me. I most willingly accepted the offer; -but, before I embarked, he strongly recommended to me not to attempt -flight, because, he assured me, I would be stopped by the discharge -of a gun. I reassured him on that point, and we set out. - -The commander of the boat was the second lieutenant, the same who had -threatened to cut my tongue; and, as I complained to the captain, who -had, without doubt, spoken to him about it, he made the strongest -apologies on that point to me while on the way, and showed me a -thousand acts of politeness. - -Before I was scarcely aware of it, we arrived at our destination; and -immediately I saw all those who were guarding the fort come to the -landing, some with guns and others with swords, to receive me. Little -accustomed to good faith, perhaps, they were always afraid that I -should escape from them, in spite of all that I was able to say to -quiet them on my account. - -After we had taken a little rest, I asked to go to my house, and they -conducted me thither under a strong escort. I began by first visiting -the church, to enable me to see for the last time what was its -condition. As I was not able to restrain my tears and sighs on seeing -the altars overturned, the pictures torn, the sacred stones broken -in pieces and scattered on every side, the two principal members of -the band said to me “that they were very sorry for all this disorder; -that it was done contrary to their intentions by the sailors, the -negroes, and the Indians, in the excitement of pillage and the heat -of drunkenness, and that they made their apologies to me for it.” I -assured them “that it was of God principally; and, first of all, they -should ask pardon for such a desecration of His temple, and that they -had great reason to fear lest He should avenge Himself, and punish -them as they deserved.” I then threw myself on my knees, and made a -special confession to God, to the Holy Virgin, and to Saint Joseph, -in honor of whom I had set up these altars to excite the devotion of -my parishioners; after which I arose, and we went on to my house. - -I had five or six persons around me, who most strictly watched all my -steps every moment, and, above all, the direction in which I looked. -I did not then understand the occasion of all this attention on their -part, but I have since learned it. These good people, avaricious to -the last extreme, imagined that I had money concealed, and that, when -I showed so much anxiety to return to shore, it was to see whether -any one had discovered my treasure. We entered the house, then, -together; and it was the occasion of sincere sorrow to me, I must -confess, to see the frightful disorder in which it was. - -It is now nearly seventeen years since I came for the first time -to Oyapoc, and began to collect all that was necessary for the -foundation of these Indian missions, foreseeing that this section of -country, where the savages are so numerous, would furnish a great -career for our zeal, and that the parish of Oyapoc would become, -as it were, the storehouse of all the other establishments. I had -not ceased ever after to be always making better provision, through -the charitable cares of one of our Fathers, who wished to be my -particular correspondent at Cayenne. God has permitted that one -single day should destroy the fruit of so much labor and of so many -years, that His holy name might be praised. What gave me most concern -was, to know that the three missionaries who remained in that quarter -were stripped of every thing, without my having it in my power for -the present to procure even the merest necessaries, notwithstanding -all the liberality and the good intentions of our Superiors. - -At last, after having gone rapidly through all the small apartments, -which were used as lodgings for our Fathers when they came to visit -me, I entered my study. I found all my books and papers on the -ground, scattered, mingled together, and half torn to pieces. I took -what I could; but, as they pressed me to finish, I was obliged to -return to the fort. - -In a few hours afterwards, those arrived who had been to plunder -the dwellings; and, after being a little refreshed, they continued -their route to the ship, carrying with them what they had pillaged, -which, by their own acknowledgment and to their great regret, was -inconsiderable. - -The next day, all the morning was passed in making up packages, in -destroying the furniture which remained in the different houses, and -in tearing off the locks and hinges of the doors, particularly those -which were made of brass. At last, about mid-day, they set fire to -the houses of the inhabitants, which were shortly reduced to ashes, -having been only roofed with straw, according to the custom of the -country. As I saw that mine would certainly share the same fate, I -was very pressing to be conducted thither, that I might recover more -of my books and papers than I had hitherto been able to secure. The -second lieutenant, who was then in command, made a parade before me -of discharging a pistol, which he carried in his belt, and then -he immediately loaded it, taking great pains that I should see it. -I have since learned why he took so much trouble in this matter. -Immediately afterwards, he said to me that, if I wished to go to my -house, he would conduct me. - -Having reached my house, I went again to look for certain papers; -and, as there remained with me only a single sailor, who spoke -French, all the others being a little scattered, he said to me, -“My Father, all our people are at a distance; save yourself, if -you wish.” I was well aware that he wished me to attempt it, and I -therefore replied coldly to him “that men of my profession do not -know what it is to break their word.” I added “that, if I had wished -to take to flight, I could long ago have done so, as there had been -many favorable opportunities while they were amusing themselves with -pillaging or drinking.” - -At length, after having thoroughly searched everywhere without -finding any thing more, I informed them that I had finished, and that -we could go when it pleased them. Then the lieutenant approached -me, with a grave and threatening air, and told me, through the -interpreter, “that I must show the place where I had concealed my -money, or I would find myself in trouble.” I answered, with that -confidence which truth gives, “that I had not concealed any money; -that, if I had thought to put any thing in a place of safety, I -should have begun with those things that are used at the altar.” -“Deny the fact as you will,” the interpreter then replied to me by -order of the officer, “we are certain, and cannot doubt it, that you -have a large amount of money, for the soldiers who are our prisoners -on board have told us so; and yet we have found but very little in -your wardrobe. You must, therefore, have concealed it; and, if you -do not immediately give it up, take care of yourself. You know that -my pistol is not badly loaded.” I fell on my knees, saying “that they -were masters of my life, since I was in their hands and at their -will; that if, however, they wished to go to that extreme, I begged -them to allow me a moment for prayer; that, for the rest, I had no -other money than what they had already taken.” At last, after having -left me for some time in that position, and looking at each other, -they told me to rise and follow them. They took me under the gallery -of the house, which was built over a little grove of cocoa-trees, -which I had planted like an orchard, and, having made me sit down, -the lieutenant also took a chair, and then putting on an air of -gayety, he said, “that I had no occasion for fear, as they did not -intend to do me any injury; but that it was impossible I had not -concealed any thing, since there was sufficient time, as I had seen -them from before my door when they came to take the fort.” I replied -to him, what I had already said so often, “that we had been so much -terrified by the noise they made during the night, with their shouts -and cries, and the incessant firing they kept up, that at first we -thought of nothing but escaping death by a speedy flight; the more so -as we imagined that they had scattered themselves at the same time -through all the houses.” - -“But, after all,” he replied, “the French prisoners are well -acquainted with your means. Why should they have told us that you had -plenty of money, if it were not true?” - -“Do you not see,” said I, “that they wished to conciliate you, and -make their court to you at my expense?” - -“No, no,” he continued; “it is because you do not wish to give up -your money. I nevertheless assure you, and I give you my word of -honor, that you shall have your liberty, and that we will release -you here without burning your houses, if you will, after all, show -your treasure.” - -“It is entirely useless,” I answered him, wearied with all these -conversations, “that you follow me up with these earnest appeals. -Again, once for all, I have nothing else to say to you but what I -have so often repeated.” - -He then spoke to the sailor who acted as interpreter, and who had -kept his eyes on me during all this interview, to see whither I -directed my looks. He then went out to visit my cocoa-grove. I then -recalled a little interview I had with the captain, a few days -before. I said to him “that, if the sentinels had done their duty, -and given us notice of the arrival of the enemy, we would have -concealed our most valuable effects.” - -“In what place,” he asked me, “would you have hid all these things? -Would you have hid them in the ground?” - -“No,” I replied; “we would have been contented with carrying them -into the woods, and covering them with branches.” - -It was, then, for this, that these cunning pirates, who weigh and -put together all our words, imagining that I did not have sufficient -time to carry very far what I esteemed most precious, were induced, -as the last effort of their cupidity and distrust, to make a search -under the trees in my garden. But it was impossible that they should -find what had never been placed there; so the sailor soon grew tired -of searching; and, he having returned, we went together to the -fort,--they without any booty, and I with some few of the papers I -had collected. - -Then for some time they consulted together, and about three o’clock -they went to set my house on fire. I prayed them at least to spare -the church, and this they promised me. But, notwithstanding, they -burned it; and when I complained, they told me that the winds, which -that day were very high there, had undoubtedly carried thither some -sparks, which had set it on fire. With this answer I was obliged to -be contented, leaving to God the time, the care, and the manner of -avenging the insult offered to His house. For myself, seeing the -flames rising up to the clouds, and having my heart pained with the -most lively sorrow, I began to recite the seventy-eighth Psalm, -“_Deus venerunt gentes_,” &c. (“O God, the heathen are come into -thine inheritance,” &c.) - -At last, after every thing was carried to the boats, we ourselves -embarked. It was a little after five o’clock; and the sailors, who -were to follow us in two small boats, finished by burning all the -buildings of the fort. At length, having rowed out a little into -the river, and allowing themselves to clear the shore very slowly -with the current, they shouted many times, “_Houra_,” which is their -“_Vive le roi_,” and their cry of joy. They had not, however, any -great occasion to pride themselves on their expedition, since, had it -not been for the black treason which delivered us into their hands, -they would never have succeeded. Neither was it of any use; because, -though they had inflicted a great injury on us, they had themselves -derived very little profit from it. - -I had expected to find the ship where I left it; but it had already -stood off in such a way that we did not arrive there till the night -was far advanced; so that they did not discharge their booty until -the next day, the morning of the 19th of the month. During the whole -of this day they made no progress, although they used their oars, -as their sails were useless for want of wind. This delay disquieted -me very much, because I wished as soon as possible to know my fate. -“Would they leave me at Cayenne?” I said to myself. “Will they carry -me to Surinam? Will they take me to Barbadoes? or even as far as New -England?” And, as I was occupying myself with these inquiries, lying -in my berth, which I was not able to quit on account of my great -weakness and the seasickness, which afflicted me terribly, some one -came to tell me that they had sent on shore three of our soldiers, -with one old Indian, captured in the canoe of the Aroüas, of which -I have already spoken. I was a little surprised; and, on asking the -captain the reason, he told me that it made so many useless mouths -the less. - -“And why,” said I, “do you not do the same towards all the other -prisoners?” - -“It is,” said he, “because I am waiting for a good ransom for the -rest of you.” - -He would have given a much truer excuse if he had said, that, wishing -to make a descent on Cayenne, he was afraid that some of his people -might be captured, in which case he wished to have some with whom to -make an exchange, which did in reality happen, as we shall see in the -end. - -The wind having freshened a little in the evening, we continued our -voyage through the whole night, and before noon approached Cayenne, -off a high rock named Connestable, and which is five or six leagues -distant. They had already learned of the disaster which had befallen -Oyapoc,--perhaps by a note which a young Indian had written, or -perhaps through some inhabitants of Aproakac, who had come to take -refuge at Cayenne. But they were ignorant of all the circumstances; -and the public, as it commonly happens in such cases, set in -circulation many reports, each one more false than the last. Some -said that every person at Oyapoc had been massacred, and that I, in -particular, had suffered a thousand cruelties. Others published that -there were many ships there, and that Cayenne would be obliged to -submit to the same fate. What seemed to give a little sanction to the -last news was, that the ship which had captured us carried with it -three boats, which, with the long-boat, made five vessels. All having -sails and looming up, at a distance caused them to make a formidable -appearance to those who were on shore. - -For myself,--in the persuasion I had that our Fathers, whom I had -left in the woods, or some other of the French who had fled, would -not fail to go as soon as possible to Cayenne to give them certain -intelligence of our sad lot, or at least to forward ample information -with regard to it,--I imagined they would send some one to rescue me. -But I was deceiving myself, and they were entirely ignorant of every -thing that had happened to me. So Friday passed, and the next day -we cast anchor very near the Enfant Perdu. This is a rock, distant -from the land six thousand and thirteen _toises_,[21] as it has been -exactly measured by M. de la Condamine, member of the Royal Academy -of Sciences, on his return from Peru. - -Towards nine o’clock in the morning, after a great stir in the ship, -I saw two large boats set out, which went to a little river called -Macouria, especially to plunder the residence of a certain lady; in -revenge, they said, for some grievances which had been previously -suffered by the English, who had gone there to purchase syrups. For, -my Reverend Father, you must know that in time of peace that nation -trades to this place, principally to furnish horses for the sugar -plantations.[22] As I saw but thirteen men in each boat, including -two Frenchmen, who were to serve as guides, I began from that moment -to entertain some hopes of my liberty; because I fully believed, as -the weather was very clear, they would see this manœuvre from the -land, and not fail to fall upon them. I was thus indulging in these -pleasant thoughts when they came to tell me that the boats were -about to go first to Couron, which is about four leagues distant -from Macouria, to capture there, if possible, Father Lombard, the -missionary, who had labored with so much success and for so long a -time in Guyane, in the conversion of the Indians. Their object was, -that they might exact a ransom for him in conformity with his age and -merits. - -I leave you to imagine how like the stroke of a thunderbolt news of -this kind came upon me, for I was well assured that, if this worthy -missionary should be brought on board our ship, he would entirely -sink under the fatigue. But Providence, which was not willing to -afflict our missions to this extent, defeated their plan. They ran -aground on the way, and were obliged to hold to their first design, -which was to ravage Macouria alone. They, in fact, arrived there -on Sunday morning, and spent that day and the following night in -pillaging and destroying the dwelling which was the object of their -hate. On Monday morning, after having set fire to the buildings, they -returned on board, without having received the least opposition from -any one. The negroes were so thoroughly terrified that they did not -dare to show themselves, and the French who had been dispatched from -Cayenne on Sunday morning had not yet been able to reach there. - -During this expedition, those who had remained with me in the ship -reasoned each one in accordance with his desires or his fears. Some -prophesied a fortunate result to this enterprise, and others wished -for it. At length, as each one was thus indulging in his own peculiar -views, I saw again a great movement on board of our ship, towards -three o’clock in the afternoon. It was caused by the departure of the -boatswain, an energetic man, bold and determined, who, in command -of nine men only, went in the long-boat to attempt a descent on the -coast very near Cayenne, using as his guide a negro, who knew the -coast, because he was a native of it. Perhaps also Captain Potter -wished to make a diversion, and in that way prevent their sending -a force from Cayenne against those of his people who had gone to -Macouria. - -However that might be, when I first learned the departure of the -long-boat I could not doubt but that the Lord wished to relieve me -from my captivity, persuaded as I was that, if the first party was -not attacked, the second certainly would be. And what I anticipated -in reality took place. The ten Englishmen, after having pillaged -one of our dwellings, were encountered by a company of French, and -entirely defeated. Three were killed on the spot, and seven were made -prisoners. On our side there was but one soldier wounded, in the -shoulder, by a musket-shot. As to my poor negro, it is surprising -that in this fight he was not even wounded. The Lord, without doubt, -wished to recompense him for his fidelity to his master. It was from -him that they at length learned at Cayenne the particulars of the -capture of Oyapoc, and every thing that related to me personally. - -We who were on board were exceedingly anxious to learn the result -of all these expeditions; but nothing came either from the shore or -from Macouria. At last, when the sun began to appear, and it became -sufficiently light for us to see at a distance, there was a constant -stream of sailors going up to the round-top and coming down, who -always reported that they could see nothing. But at nine o’clock, -Captain Potter came himself to tell me that he had seen three boats -which, leaving Cayenne, had gone in the direction of Macouria, and no -doubt were in pursuit of his people. To tranquillize him a little, -I answered, “that they might be the boats of the inhabitants, who, -after having heard Mass, were returning to their homes.” - -“No,” he replied, “those are boats full of people. I have seen them -perfectly with my glass, at a distance.” - -“Your people,” I suggested, “will perhaps have left the river before -the others reach it, and after that there can be no collision.” - -“All this does not worry me,” he said. “My people are well armed -and full of courage. The fortunes of war must decide it, if the two -parties meet.” - -“But what do you think of your long-boat?” I asked him. - -“I think it is captured,” he said. - -“Excuse me,” said I to him, “if I say to you that there was a little -temerity in your running the risk of a descent with so small a force. -Do you, then, imagine that Cayenne is an Oyapoc?” - -“That was far from being my idea,” he answered; “but it is the too -great ardor and excessive energy of the boatswain which has caused -it. So much the worse for him if he has come to evil! I am, however, -sorry for it,” he continued; “for I have a great esteem for him, and -he was very necessary to me. He has, without doubt, exceeded my -orders; for I had advised him not to land, but only to examine from a -short distance as to the most commodious place to disembark.” - -After we had thus conferred together for a short time, he caused them -to raise the anchor, and approached as near as possible to land and -to Macouria. His object was as much to cut off the way for our boats, -as to cover his people and shorten the return for them. - -Nevertheless, all Sunday passed in great anxiety. Our enemies were -aware of the fact that there were three ships in the harbor, because -the boats going to Macouria had approached sufficiently near the -port to discover them, and they had made the signal agreed upon with -Captain Potter. But some had fears lest these vessels might come -out and attack the ship during the night. So, about seven o’clock -in the evening, they placed two swivel-guns in the windows, besides -the twelve which were on deck along the sides of the ship. But the -captain was very composed. He told me “that, so far from fearing that -they would come and attack him, he, on the contrary, desired it; -hoping thus to gain possession of those who should dare to approach -him.” He was thoroughly armed as a privateer: sabres, pistols, -guns, lances, grenades, balls filled with bitumen and sulphur, -grape-shot,--nothing was wanting. - -I believe that no one slept that night. However, nothing appeared, -either from Macouria or Cayenne, which was the cause of great -uneasiness to us all. At length, at eight o’clock in the morning, -the captain came to tell me that he had seen a great deal of smoke -on the shore at Macouria, and that his people had without doubt -set fire to the buildings of Madame Gislet. (This is the name of -the lady to whose residence the English had particularly directed -their attention.) “I am very sorry,” he added, “for I had expressly -forbidden them to burn any thing.” A little while after, they saw -from the height of the round-top five canoes or boats, some of which -seemed to be pursuing each other. They were our French people, who -were giving chase to the English. Captain Potter, an able man in his -profession, at once perceived this, and took measures accordingly; -for he raised his anchor, and made again a movement to approach them. -He called all his people to arms, having at the same time obliged all -the prisoners, whether French or English, to descend into the hold. I -wished myself to go there also; but he told me I could remain in my -cabin, and he would notify me when it was time. - -In the midst of this excitement, one of the boats which had come from -Macouria drew nigh, as by dint of rowing; and to assure themselves -that they were English, those in the vessel raised their pennant -and flag and fired a gun, to which the boats having responded by -the discharge of a musket, the signal on which they had agreed, -tranquillity succeeded this first movement of fear. But there -remained as yet one boat behind, which was coming very slowly with -the _pagaye_ (a kind of scull, or oar, which the Indians use to -row their canoes), and they feared that it would be captured by -our boats. No sooner, therefore, had the officer who commanded the -first discharged in haste the little they had brought with them, -than he hurried back to convoy it. After having conducted it to its -destination, and all the little booty they had taken having been -embarked in the ship, each one thought of refreshing himself to the -utmost for the fatigues of this marauding. Punch, lemonade, wine, -brandy, sugar,--nothing was spared. Thus passed the rest of the day -and the night of Sunday to Monday. - -Among all these successes,--which, however inconsiderable they really -might be, were yet occasions of triumph for them,--there remained one -great source of chagrin, which was the capture of the long-boat and -of the ten men who had landed in it. It became necessary, therefore, -to think seriously of some means of rescuing them. For this reason, -on Monday morning, after having consulted among themselves and held -council after council, they came to find me, to say that, their ship -dragging considerably, perhaps on account of the currents, which are -very strong in these latitudes, or perhaps because they had only one -small anchor remaining, they could not longer hold their anchorage, -and they thought, therefore, of going to Surinam, a Dutch colony, -twenty-four leagues or thereabouts from Cayenne; but, however, they -very much wished to receive first some news of their long-boat and -the people who had landed on Saturday. - -I told them, in reply, “that this was very easy; that it was only -necessary to fit out one of the boats which they had taken from -us, and to send it to Cayenne with the proposal for an exchange of -prisoners.” - -“But would they be willing to receive us?” they asked me; “would they -not inflict on us some injury? Would they permit us to return?” - -It was easy for me to remove doubts which had so little foundation, -by telling them, as is the case, “that the law of nations is the -same in all countries; that the French did not pride themselves -less than the English in observing it; that nothing was so common -among civilized people as to see the generals mutually sending -heralds-at-arms, trumpeters, or drummers, to carry their terms of -agreement; and that, therefore, they need have no fear for those of -their crew whom they might send to land.” - -After renewed consultations, which they held among themselves, they -began to make their proposals, some of which I found to be entirely -unreasonable. For example, they wished to have returned to them their -boat with all the arms, and to have all the prisoners released, -whatever might be their number, in exchange for only four Frenchmen, -which was our number. - -I answered him, “that I did not think they would accede to this -article of war; that, as far as it related to men, the usage is to -change them head for head.” - -“But, you alone, do you not value yourself as much as thirty -sailors?” said one of the crowd to me. - -“No, certainly,” I answered; “a man of my profession, in time of war, -should not count for any thing.” - -“All this is very well for wit,” said the captain; “but, since you -take it in that way, I must go and make sail. I am able very well -to bear the loss of ten men; it leaves me a large enough crew to -continue my voyage.” - -Immediately he went out of the cabin to give his orders, and they -began working the ship, &c. But, through all this manœuvring, I saw -very well that it was only a feint on their part to intimidate me and -induce me to offer them two thousand piastres, which they had already -demanded for my ransom. - -Nevertheless, as I had a great desire to free myself from their -hands, although I did not let it appear outwardly, I took occasion to -call Captain Potter and say to him, “that he need not be influenced -by my views; that he could at any time send a boat to Cayenne to make -the proposals which he judged proper, leaving it to Monsieur the -Commandant to accept or reject them.” He followed this suggestion, -and begged me myself to dictate the letter which he wished written; -and this I did, as his secretary, following exactly what he caused me -to say. - -I also, on my own account, wrote a few words to Monsieur d’Orvilliers -and Father de Villeconte (our Superior-General), praying the first to -stipulate in the articles of negotiation, if he had an opportunity, -that they should return to me every thing in their possession -belonging to my church; offering myself to pay as much silver in -weight as would equal that of the silver vessels, and a certain sum -on which we would agree for the furniture, ornaments, and linen. At -the same time, I begged our Father, if this negotiation succeeded, to -send me the silver and the necessary balance for the account, by the -return of the boat, to the place where the exchange of prisoners was -to be made,--that is to say, half-way between the ship and the land. - -All these letters being prepared, the boat was dispatched, and they -sent in it, as the bearer of these letters, a sergeant who had been -made prisoner at Oyapoc. He was ordered to use the utmost diligence; -and, as he was an energetic man, we should have had a prompt reply, -but the wind and the current were so contrary that they could not -make the port of Cayenne. We were all exceedingly disappointed: the -English, because they began to be in want of water and their ship -drifted again considerably, having only, as I have said, one small -anchor, which they were obliged to manage with a grappling-iron; and -we Frenchmen, because we were very anxious to regain our liberty. It -was necessary, however, to be patient and to resign ourselves to the -will of God until He should cause some new way to be opened. - -At last, on Wednesday morning, having determined to ask the captain -what course he had determined to pursue, I was agreeably surprised -by hearing him say “that if I wished to go to Cayenne I was my own -master, with the condition that I should cause to be sent back all -the English who were prisoners there.” - -“That does not depend upon me,” I said to him; “but I will promise to -make every effort with Monsieur the Commandant to obtain it.” - -After some slight objections, which I easily removed, we wrote a new -letter to Monsieur d’Orvilliers, of which I was to be the bearer, -and, every thing being ready, we embarked--four French and five -English--to go to Cayenne. In taking leave of the captain, I said to -him, “that if the war continued, and he or any others of his nation -should come to Cayenne, I could not again be made prisoner.” He -answered me, “that he knew that already; the custom being not twice -to make prisoner of the same person in the course of the same war, at -least, unless he should be taken with arms in his hands.” - -I then thanked him for his honorable treatment of myself, and, -grasping his hand, I said to him: “Monsieur, two things give me -pain at this parting. It is not exactly the pillage you have made -at Oyapoc, because the French will perhaps return you the same with -interest; but it is, in the first place, because we have not both of -us the same faith; and in the second place, because your people have -not been willing to return to me the furniture of my church on the -conditions I proposed, reasonable as they are, for it causes me to -fear lest the profanation of what belongs to the temple of the Lord -may draw down His anger upon you. I would advise you,” I added, while -embracing him, “to pray God each day to enlighten you as to the true -way to heaven; for as there is but one God, so there can be but one -true faith.” After which I descended into the boat which was to carry -us; and immediately I saw all the crew come up on deck, the flag -and pennant were hoisted, the gun was fired, and we were many times -saluted with “_Houras_,” to which we replied as often with “_Vive le -roi_.” - -Scarcely had we gone a quarter of a league on our way when the -ship got under sail, and, toward five o’clock, we lost sight of -her. The sea, however, was very rough, and we had only miserable -oars to row with, when, to complete our difficulty, our rudder -became disabled. A hinge, which was held in its place by a screw -below, came out and fell into the sea. We then resorted to the only -expedient in our power, that of attaching the ring of the rudder to -the stern-post of the boat; but the iron shortly wore off the cord, -and we found ourselves in great danger. What increased our fear was, -that the night became very dark, and we were far distant from land. -We determined, therefore, to anchor until next morning, when we -could find out some way to relieve ourselves from this unfortunate -condition. As the English appreciated better than we did the peril in -which we were, one of them proposed to me to hoist the lantern high -up on one of the masts, as a signal for succor. But I represented to -him its uselessness, because we were too far distant to be seen, and, -besides, no one would dare to come to us in the uncertainty whether -we were friends or enemies. - -Thus we passed a distressing night, between life and death; and what -was very remarkable is, that we had anchored, without knowing it, -between two large rocks, which we did not see until day dawned. After -having returned thanks to God for having so visibly protected us, -we resolved to gain the river, that, if possible, we might repair -the boat, or procure another at the neighboring dwellings, or, as a -last resource, go by land to Cayenne. But behold! a new accident. -As we took down the large mast, not having much strength of crew, -they allowed it to go on the opposite side from that on which it -should naturally fall. We all thought it would have crushed M. de -la Landerie, but happily he had only some slight bruises. We took -at that time--the sergeant and myself--one oar to steer, the others -each taking one to row; and, aided partly by the wind (for we carried -our foremast to enable us to avoid the breakers), and partly by the -tide, which began to rise, but, above all, conducted by the Divine -Providence which guided us, on the morning of the 26th we entered -the little river Macouria, which I have already mentioned. None of -us were acquainted with the channel; so that the English themselves -earnestly avowed that it was God who had conducted us, safe and -sound, in spite of the great dangers. - -Our first object was to obtain some means of getting to Cayenne; -but this was not an easy matter. In addition to the fact that we -could not find a boat or any way of repairing our own, the negroes, -who were the only persons left at the dwellings, were so frightened -that they did not wish to recognize us. As it had already become -known that I was a prisoner, they feared lest the English had -sent me ashore as a lure, through my means to entrap the slaves. -Nevertheless, after many protestations and prayers and solicitations, -I reassured some, who, more courageous than the rest, dared to -approach us; and, through their means, we obtained some little -refreshment, of which we certainly stood very much in need. For -myself, as I was scarcely able to take any nourishment, and for this -reason was very weak, I was hardly able to sustain myself. - -As soon as each one was a little recruited, I consigned to the -negroes the boat, which we left in their care with all the rigging -and sails, and we set out on our journey to Cayenne, along the -borders of the ocean. We did not wish to go into the interior of the -country, for fear of affording our enemies a knowledge of the place, -which hereafter might be an injury to us. The night which followed -favored my design, and I can say with truth that the five English -whom I took with me saw nothing which could be of any service to -them, if at any future day, in the course of this war, they should -take a fancy to return to us. - -It would be difficult, not to say impossible, my Reverend Father, -to describe to you what we suffered during this journey of only -three or four leagues. As the tide rose, and for that reason we were -obliged to make our way over the high ground of the shore, where -the sand is very shifting, we sunk into it; and most of us had the -greatest difficulty to drag ourselves along, so that I frequently -saw the greater part of our party obliged to stop and rest. The -English, particularly, being little accustomed to march, found the -journey very long, and would have been very willing to be back in -their vessel. But it was their fault that they found themselves in -such difficulty. In sending us ashore, they themselves knew that the -boat in which we embarked was unseaworthy. They should have given me -notice of it at the time, and I would have demanded another from the -captain. - -At last, by dint of encouraging and animating them, we reached the -point which the river forms, and which fronts on the roadstead. It -was about midnight when we arrived at the dwelling of Madame de -Charanville, where the slaves, knowing the good heart and generosity -of their mistress, although alone, gave us the best reception they -were able, to recompense us for the privations we had suffered. I -had taken the precaution to send before us a negro of our party, to -remove their fears on our arrival; for without this, we should have -run a great risk of not being received, so great was the fright which -had everywhere seized on these poor wretches. So good a reception -gave great satisfaction to the English, who themselves feared being -killed or maltreated by the negroes, which would certainly have -happened had I not been with them. For this reason they never left -me. At length, after having taken a little rest, as soon as it was -day we embarked in a boat we had found, and continued our route to -Cayenne. - -No sooner had they seen us at a great distance, than they well knew -from our white flag that we were the deputies who came to make -terms; and they immediately sent down a detachment to the port, who -received us at the point of the bayonet and with presented arms, -as is the custom on such occasions. All the ramparts which fronted -the roadstead, and the rising ground on which the fort is situated, -were entirely covered with people. Having directed the sergeant to -remain in the boat with all his company until I had spoken to the -commandant, I myself landed. The Brother Pittet had recognized me -with his glass, at a long distance, and hastened himself to give me -his hand. - -It was a very consoling spectacle, my Reverend Father, to see all -Cayenne coming to meet me. In the streets through which I had passed, -there was so great a crowd of people that I had difficulty in making -my way. The rich as well as the poor, even all the slaves, pressed -around to give me proofs of the pleasure which my restoration -to freedom afforded them. Many bathed me with their tears when -embracing me. I do not blush to say that I was myself overcome in -recognizing such great demonstrations of friendship. A large crowd -followed me even into the church, to which I first repaired to return -thanks to God for the great blessings He had bestowed upon me, and -for which I pray you, my Reverend Father, to give thanks also. - -Our Fathers and our Brothers distinguished themselves on this -occasion, and extended their charity, in my behalf, as far as it was -possible to carry it. As all my clothes were in a pitiable state, -they eagerly brought me every thing which was necessary. In this way -I realized to the letter the truth of that declaration of our Lord: -“_Quiconque quittera son père, sa mère, ses frères, pour l’amour -de moi, recevra le centuple en ce monde_.” (Whosoever shall leave -his father, his mother, his brethren, for my sake, shall receive an -hundred-fold in this world.) - -We often talked together over the evils which might again happen -to us, and I was always very much edified at seeing their holy -emulation; each one wishing to sacrifice himself to succor the -wounded in case of an attack. But I thought that having already -had some experience in this matter, and not being able to be again -made prisoner during the continuance of this war, I should have the -preference, and begin the service in discharging the duties of our -ministry. We can, however, hope that neither the one nor the other -will be obliged to come forward in this way, but that the victorious -arms of the king will shortly bring about a solid and lasting peace. -As soon as I had made my report and forwarded my letters to Monsieur -d’Orvilliers, who was in retirement in his house on account of the -death of Madame his wife, he gave orders that the five English who -had come with me should be conducted, with their eyes bandaged, -according to custom in such cases, to the guard-house, where they -were to be confined; after which, he made the necessary arrangements -for sending them back to their ship, with the seven other prisoners -whom I have already mentioned, all of whom he was very willing to -free, in a great measure through consideration to myself. On the -following day, the 28th, they departed during the night in their -long-boat, with all the tackle and provisions necessary. We have -reason to wish that they should arrive safe in port, because we have -written by them to the Governor of Surinam; and I myself on my own -account have done so, to endeavor, through his instrumentality, to -recover what belonged to my church, on the conditions agreed upon -with Captain Potter when we parted. But if I should not succeed in -recovering these things, I flatter myself that you, my Reverend -Father, would be entirely willing to supply this deficiency by -sending me a complete church service, for every thing has been lost. - -On my arrival at Cayenne, I had found there the officer who was at -Oyapoc when it was taken, and who since then has returned thither -with the chief surgeon and a party of soldiers. Since that time, the -commandant himself has gone back with the rest of the detachment, to -await the orders which the Court shall give with regard to Oyapoc. -The fort which we have just lost was built in 1725, under the -direction of M. d’Orvilliers, Governor of this colony, and had thus -been in existence but nineteen years. We do not know whether the -Court will think proper to re-establish it. - -It was a great consolation to me to learn that our two missionaries, -the Fathers d’Autillac and d’Huberlant, have returned each to his own -post, after having entirely got over their fatigues before they went -back. They had again much to suffer, until we were able to furnish -them with assistance. They write me that the Indians, who had been -at first exceedingly frightened, had begun to be reassured, and that -they continued to render all the services in their power to the -inhabitants who remained in that quarter awaiting the new order. - -You see, my Reverend Father, a very long letter, and, perhaps, one a -little too long. I should esteem myself happy if it is able to afford -you any pleasure, for I had no other object in writing. I am, with -respect, in the unity of your holy sacrifices, &c. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] _The Landfall of Leif_, _The Problem of the Northmen_, _The -Defences of Norumbega_, _The Discovery of the Ancient City_, _Leif’s -House in Vinland_, etc. - -[2] W. H. Babcock, _Early Norse Visits to America_. Smithsonian Misc. -Colls., Vol. 59, No. 19. - -[3] Babcock, p. 139. - -[4] Astronomical calculations demonstrate that the sun rose and set -at the time mentioned, October 17, in Latitude 41°, 24′, 10″, almost -exactly that of Narragansett Bay. - -[5] In Old Norse the term “Hop” was applied to any inlet, fiord or -harbor with a narrow entrance, widening inside not far from the -entrance to a larger lake or lagoon into which a river flowed. - -[6] The commander of the Prince Charles of Lorraine, of whom we shall -write later. - -[7] The words used by Father Fauque are “_corsaire -anglois_.”--_Trans._ - -[8] _Les corsaires._ - -[9] Suspecting that _Rodelan_ and _Rhode Island_ were similar enough -in sound to mislead Father Fauque, we examined the list of governors -of Rhode Island, and found that William Greene was governor in -1744-5. This, therefore, was a Rhode Island privateer.[10] Father -Fauque says Captain Potter was “_Creole de la Nouvelle Angleterre_.” -He, of course, means he was a native of New England, and we have thus -translated it.--_Trans._ - -[10] The Prince Charles was owned in Newport. See _ante_, p. 44. - -[11] Very true.--_Ed._ - -[12] Some of these are still preserved in Bristol.--_Ed._ - -[13] See testimony of Jeffrey Potter, _ante_, p. 46.--_Ed._ - -[14] A series of devotions extending through nine days.--_Trans._ - -[15] From 1715 to 1786 Rhode Island suffered from the issue of Bills -of Credit, or paper money.--_Ed._ - -[16] _Nota bene._--_Ed._ - -[17] Either Captain Potter or Father Fauque, in this statement, makes -a mistake. On November 5th, in England, they celebrate their escape -from the “Gunpowder Plot.” There is in the Prayer-book “A Form of -Prayer with Thanksgiving,” which is to be used on that day “for the -happy deliverance of King James I. and the Three Estates of England -from the most traitorous and blood-intended massacre by Gunpowder; -and also for the happy arrival of His Majesty King William on this -day, for the deliverance of our church and nation.” The common people -call it “Guy Fawkes’ Day.”[18]--_Trans._ - -[18] Guy Fawkes’ Day was observed with great fidelity, as far as -noise was concerned, by Bristol boys of the last generation.--_Ed._ - -[19] Captain Potter was a member of St. Michael’s Church, Bristol, -and as a good Church of England man was reading his Book of Common -Prayer.--_Ed._ - -[20] Potter was not a Huguenot. If Father Fauque had known of the -heresies abounding in “Rodelan” his astonishment would have been -equalled by his horror.--_Ed._ - -[21] A _toise_ is two yards.--_Trans._ - -[22] “Narragansett Pacers” were greatly in demand in the West Indies, -and on the “Spanish Main.”--_Ed._ - - - - -PART II - -NORWEST JOHN AND THE VOYAGE OF THE JUNO - - -1--NORWEST JOHN - -John De Wolf was born in Bristol on September 6, 1779. His father, -Simon, the third son of Mark Anthony, founder of the Bristol family, -was lost at sea with his older brother, Mark, in 1779 or ’80, when -his only child was but an infant in arms. He was forced by poverty -to begin a seafaring life at the age of thirteen. His great ability -quickly manifested itself and at the age of twenty-four he was placed -in command of a vessel bound on one of the most fascinating as well -as one of the most hazardous voyages known to the commerce of that -time, a voyage to the Northwest Coast. The story of his experiences -he tells in the pages that follow. For some years after his return -to his native town he continued in the Russian-American trade for -which the knowledge of the language gained during his stay in Russian -territory well qualified him. Having attained the age of forty-eight -he retired from the sea and for some years lived, like many retired -captains, the life of a farmer, upon the farm occupied for years -as a summer home by his relative, the late Bishop Howe of Central -Pennsylvania. Thence he moved to a farm at Brighton, Massachusetts, -and, leaving that, spent the last years of his life with his -daughter, Mrs. Downing, at Dorchester. Very delightful must have been -those last years. The daring sailor whose nerves had never failed him -in moments of greatest peril on the ocean was a man of tender nature -and of a most lovable disposition. - -Of him his granddaughter penned this beautiful picture:[23] - -“I never knew a more beautiful old age. Beloved by those of all ages, -he had many friends among the young people and was young with them, -and his grandchildren were devoted to him. They called him ‘White -Grandpa,’ on account of his silvery hair, to distinguish him from -my father. They always knew in just what spot in the room to look -for candy and fruits which he always had for them, and if there was -anything they particularly wanted they were always sure that ‘White -Grandpa’ would give it to them. Like so many old people it was hard -for him to adapt himself to modern improvements. And especially -the new ideas of shipbuilding were not always to his liking. At -a window of a room in our summer home, commanding a fine view of -Boston harbor, we would often find him holding his spy-glass at arm’s -length, and if sometimes we would ask ‘What do you see, Grandpa?’ he -would invariably reply, ‘I was looking at those blasted three masted -schooners.’” - -In the days of his life at sea a three masted schooner was almost -unknown, and the schooner rigged vessel was rarely seen except on -the American coast of the North Atlantic Ocean. Everywhere else -square sails were the rule. Even the “tub” of twenty-five tons on -which Captain De Wolf made his voyage of twenty-five hundred miles -to Ochotsk was a brig. At his death no naval constructor had dreamed -of a five masted schooner, and a seven master would have been deemed -impossible. Today all the great colliers carry five or six masts -and there is not a square rigger among them. The schooner rig is -distinctively American. The first schooner ever constructed is said -to have been built in Gloucester, Massachusetts, about the year 1713, -by Captain Andrew Robinson. In two centuries it has driven the square -rigged ship from the Atlantic coast of North America. In the great -ports upon the Pacific coast square sails are still frequent, though -they are seen for the most part upon the masts of foreign ships. -The schooner rig has conquered even that former home of most rigid -conservatism which was opened to the commerce of the world in 1854, -by a Rhode Island naval officer, when Commodore M. C. Perry dropped -anchor near the little fishing village of Yokohama, Japan. As one -passes through the “Inland Sea” today he notes that all the fleet -craft skimming over its waves are rigged in the American way. The -schooner has driven the slow moving “junk” out of business as far as -those waters are concerned. - -Captain De Wolf died in Dorchester, on March 8, 1872, aged -ninety-two. - - -2--VOYAGE OF THE JUNO - -A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH PACIFIC AND A JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA MORE THAN -HALF A CENTURY AGO. BY CAPTAIN JOHN D’WOLF. (CAMBRIDGE, 1861) - - -_Preface_ - -My only object in combining the reminiscences and memoranda of my -first voyage as a shipmaster into a connected narrative is to leave -some slight record of that voyage in my family. Although I am not one -of those who regard everything beyond the smoke of their own chimneys -as marvellous I think my expedition to the Northwest Coast was made a -little remarkable from the circumstance that I met at Norfolk Sound -his Excellency Baron von Resanoff, to whom I sold my vessel, and then -crossed the Pacific in a little craft of twenty-five tons burden, and -after an overland journey of twenty-five hundred miles returned home -by way of St. Petersburg. This was a voyage and travels more than -half a century ago, and I was probably the first American who passed -through Siberia. I know that others have claimed to be the first, -and have published descriptions of the country; but I had gone over -the same route before any of these claimants were born. I have often -regretted that I did not make any note of what I saw, and that I had -not the requisite qualifications to write an extended account of it; -but business called my thoughts in other directions. I must now be -content to give this imperfect sketch, the materials of which are -drawn principally from memory. - - -VOYAGE. - -I. - - The Ship Juno.--Her Outfit.--And Voyage to the Northwest Coast. - -I commenced a seafaring life at the early age of thirteen, and -followed it through all its changes, continually rising in rank, -until I reached my twenty-fourth year. Then, after a series of long -voyages to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope as chief mate, in -the summer of 1804 I returned to my native town, resolved on a short -respite of a few months from a close application of eleven years. -I had enjoyed this leisure but a little while, however, when my -employers, Messrs. Charles, James, and George D’Wolf, purchased a -fine ship,[24] called the Juno, of about two hundred and fifty tons -burden, and projected a voyage to the Northwest Coast of America to -collect furs for the China market. They proposed that I should take -the command. I had no expectation of such an offer, since I thought -myself too young and inexperienced to enter upon an entirely new -branch of trade, and entertained some misgivings of my qualifications -for such an enterprise. At the same time I could not so far doubt -my abilities as to neglect so advantageous an opportunity, and I -therefore accepted the trust. - -Having engaged in the undertaking, we lost no time in making the -necessary arrangements, in procuring a cargo suitable for traffic, -and in preparing the vessel for the voyage. When ready for sea, the -Juno and her lading were valued at $35,000. The Juno at that day -was considered a crack ship, and her outfit embraced all that was -needed for both comfort and convenience. She mounted eight carriage -guns, and was otherwise armed in proportion, and when hauled into the -stream presented quite a formidable and warlike appearance. Such an -equipment was essential in her time for the dangerous business for -which she was destined. The crew also would now be considered too -large for a craft of the same tonnage,--for it numbered twenty-six -men and boys, viz: Samuel G. Newell, First Mate; John A. Thomas, -Second Mate; James Moorfield, Clerk; Richard Cammett, Joseph Hooper, -Armorers; Thomas Hunt, Boatswain; John Jones, Carpenter; D. Bucklin, -E. Bucklin, W. H. Tripp, D. Tatton, J. Stokes, J. Wheeler, W. -Foy, J. Marshall, J. D. Cook, W. Phipps, J. Wheesner, J. Powers, -S. Patterson, Seamen; J. Hanson, Cook; E. D. Parker, Musician; R. -Hitchcock, Tailor; T. Murphy, J. Mahoney, boys. Thus manned and -equipped, we took leave of our friends, weighed anchor, and put to -sea on the 13th of August, 1804. - -Having now fairly embarked again on the ocean, which had become a -home to me, I began immediately to attend to those duties which its -dangers imposed. Our anchors and cables were soon stowed away, the -crew divided, the watch set, and everything prepared for all winds -and weathers. We sailed in a southeasterly direction, with light -breezes, and for a number of days nothing varied the monotony which -the sea wears to those who have been long accustomed to it. On the -20th of September we saw at a distance St. Antonio, one of the Cape -de Verde Islands. We then bent our course to the south, and were -favored with fine leading winds until we reached that region of the -ocean between the northeast and southeast trade-winds, which is -doomed to perpetual squalls and calms, thunder, lightning, and rain. -This vexatious weather was the source of one advantage, however. -It afforded an opportunity for filling our water-casks, which was -essential in the long voyage and moderate progress we were making. - -On the 9th of November we crossed the equator in longitude 24° W. -Fifty-six days to the line! Well, this certainly seems to be a long -passage in comparison with those made in more modern times by the -straight course pointed out by Lieut. Maury. Yet the difference is -not so very extraordinary, when we consider the improvements in the -sciences of navigation and naval architecture. Clippers may pursue -a route with impunity which was not so safe or practicable for the -square-built, seven-knot ships of half a century ago. The straight -course was by no means unknown in those days, and it was sometimes -followed; but with dull sailing vessels it was necessary to be more -cautious, and make their “easting” while in the region of variable -winds. That we crossed the Atlantic, in my time, thrice, as it is -said, in going to the Cape of Good Hope, I deny. A majority of the -passages made by the circuitous track would compare favorably with -those made now by the same class of ships, notwithstanding the -superior knowledge of winds and currents, and the numerous nautical -instruments of which sea-captains avail themselves. At all events, -navigation is not now carried on with more, if as much safety as -formerly. Inducements are held out, in these go-ahead days, to make -quick passages, regardless of ship and cargo, and the interests of -the underwriters. Too implicit reliance is placed on instruments and -figures at the expense of that most essential point in navigation, a -vigilant lookout, and to the neglect of the use of the lead. - -October 10th. We fell in with a large Spanish ship from Havana for -Rio Janeiro, ninety days out. Being now several degrees in south -latitude, the weather was serene and the sea smooth; there was a fine -breeze from the southeast. On the 12th, we spoke a Portuguese ship -from Oporto, also bound to Rio Janeiro. She had a large number of -passengers on board, many of whom were sick, as they were destitute -of all kinds of vegetables. I supplied them with potatoes and -onions, for which they were very grateful, and presented in return a -quantity of Port wine. A continuance of the pleasant weather enabled -us to make various repairs in the rigging, which had been drenched -and buffeted by incessant tempests to the north of the line. The -change seemed to put new life and animation into the whole crew. -All hands were actively employed with a good will in their various -departments,--the armorers at the forge, the carpenter fitting the -boats for service on the coast, the sail-makers upon the sails. Thus -the vessel was put in fine condition for meeting the rough gales of -Cape Horn. These we began to encounter in lat. 40° S. - -November 12th, lat. 48° S., long. 51° W., we fell in with the ship -Mary, of Boston, Capt. Trescott, bound to the Northwest Coast of -America, and I agreed to keep company with him until we had doubled -the Cape. This arrangement could be no impediment to our progress, -as our vessels were nearly equal sailors.--November 15th, we saw -the Falkland Islands bearing from southeast to southwest, fifteen -miles distant. From our longitude we judged ourselves to be nearer -the western extremity, but the wind inclining westward compelled us -to pass to the eastward of them.--November 19th, the wind from the -westward increased to a gale, with a heavy swell, which brought both -ships under short sail. At eight, P. M., the Mary bore upon our -weather quarter, about two miles distant. At ten, the wind continuing -the same, I left the deck, charging the officer of the watch to be -careful that we did not approach each other too near. At daylight it -was perceived that she had approached us considerably, though she -still held a position on the weather quarter at a sufficient distance -to be out of danger. But through inattention of the officer on board -the Mary to the steering, she was brought under our lee within hail; -of this I was not informed by the mate in command on the deck. The -Juno was making but slow progress through the water, being under -short sail, with a heavy sea running, and obliged to keep close to -the wind in order to avoid a collision. In this way, the ship’s -headway would be so checked that she would fall off two or three -points, regardless of the helm. While thus situated, the Mary was in -the act of coming to, and the Juno falling off, when, before either -ship had gained sufficient headway to be under quick command of the -helm, our whole broadsides came into contact with a crash that made -every timber quake. I immediately rushed on deck, and beheld with -amazement our perilous situation. In which, spite of all our efforts -to get clear, we remained nearly fifteen minutes, cutting and tearing -our bulwarks, channels, and plank-sheer, and making sad work with our -rigging. Finally we separated, and without apparently sustaining any -injury below our plank-sheer. - -This may be an uninteresting matter for record to many, but it is -one of those casualties which not infrequently occur from a reckless -neglect, or a want of ordinary judgment, and yet where no one is -willing to acknowledge himself at fault. They show that caution is to -be regarded as a cardinal point of practical navigation. I am bold to -say, that, if I had been apprised of our proximity, the collision -would never have taken place. - -When endeavoring to extricate the two ships, Mr. Stetson, first mate -of the Mary, while on a poise upon her railing, to save himself from -falling overboard, made a leap for the Juno, and landed on her deck. -In the course of the day the weather became more moderate, and we put -him aboard his own ship and continued our course without attempting -to keep company with her. We were favored with mild weather until the -24th, which brought us into lat. 56° S. Here commenced a series of -very severe gales from the westward, which continued with unabated -violence for ten days. On the 5th of December the wind veered to the -southward, which enabled us to make some progress, so that on the -10th I judged myself fairly to the north and west of the Cape, and -a fine southwest wind was carrying us fast from it. On the 13th, as -luck would have it, we fell in again with our old consort, the Mary, -and sailed along with her until the 29th. Being then in lat. 44° S. -and long. 85° W., I deemed it expedient to hold a consultation with -my officers on the propriety of touching upon the coast of Chili, in -preference to the Sandwich Islands, which was our previous intention. -This was thought advisable on account of the damage sustained during -our boisterous passage of one hundred and thirty-eight days. The -copper on the ship’s bottom, which had been worn as thin as paper -during a previous long voyage of three years, had now become full -of holes, and was torn off in many places by whole sheets. This and -other injuries which could not be repaired at sea, in addition to -the fact that all our fuel was consumed except that stowed under the -cargo, and on this account we had for some time been obliged to -dispense with cooking oftener than once a week, induced us to part -company again with the Mary, and shape our course for Concepcion. -I was well aware of the natural and deep-rooted jealousy of the -Spaniards; but while I apprehended trouble on this score, I was -determined to find admittance to some port, after having relinquished -my original scheme of visiting the Sandwich Islands. - -On the 1st of January, 1805, at 2 P. M., we saw land bearing from -southeast to northeast, fifteen miles distant, and shortly after the -island of St. Maria. At the same time we saw a ship standing out -from the shore, which we spoke. She was a whaler from New Bedford. -The wind was blowing so hard that we could learn nothing further. -At sunset it had died away, and left us still four or five miles -off Concepcion. As it was not practicable to make the harbor in the -night-time, we tacked ship and stood out from the coast, with a -view to holding our situation to the windward until morning, and at -midnight we tacked and stood in again. At daybreak, however, we found -the current had set us a considerable distance north of our port. -I accordingly resolved to make sail for Valparaiso; since that was -the principal port in Chili, we had reason to anticipate a better -reception than at any place of less note, where our presence might -have excited unjust suspicions of unlawful trade. Our sole object was -to repair our vessel and obtain supplies for our voyage, and these by -the laws of humanity they could not in justice refuse us. - -The weather continued remarkably serene and pleasant, with light -breezes and frequent calms; and as we coasted along within eight or -ten miles of the shore, we had a most splendid view of the Andes, -towering far above the clouds. On the morning of the 8th, we entered -the bay of Valparaiso. Before we reached a safe anchorage, we were -visited by an officer from the Governor, who requested to know who -we were, whence we came, and the object of our visit,--all of which -I explained to his apparent satisfaction. The boat then returned to -the shore with a message to the Governor, while the officer remained -on board, saying that he could not suffer us to anchor until he -received orders. But before the boat returned, the ship had reached -the anchorage ground, and we came to immediately, notwithstanding -his remonstrances. The boat brought a peremptory command to leave -the bay; but this was out of the question, and so I as peremptorily -refused. I was summoned before the Governor to present my papers for -examination, and account for my conduct. After examining my invoices -and other documents, and listening to a candid explanation of the -reasons which induced me to come into port, he was convinced that my -destination was the Northwest Coast. I was accordingly permitted to -remain until I received further orders from the Governor-General, -at St. Jago, to whom a messenger was despatched. In the mean time -I was allowed to take on board as much wood and water, and fresh -provisions, as I chose. The harbor was too rough and exposed, to make -the repairs we needed, and therefore we weighed anchor and sailed for -Coquimbo, where we arrived on the 20th, and dropped anchor in six -fathoms of water, on the west side of the bay, about eight miles from -the town. Here we remained until the 28th, when, having completed our -repairs as far as practicable, we put to sea with a fine breeze from -the south. - -When we reached 4° S. lat., we had series of calms, with pleasant -weather, and a very smooth sea. In this neighborhood we saw great -numbers of green turtle, and by capturing several we added a delicacy -to our larder. February 20th, between 9 and 11 A. M., I obtained -several distances of the sun and moon, the mean of which made the -long. 108° W.; at meridian, I found we had crossed the equator into -north latitude. The wind continued very light and variable until the -4th of March, when it inclined to the northeast. On the 16th, we -crossed the Tropic of Cancer. At this point the winds again became -variable and squally. On the 7th of April, we had strong gales and -threatening sky, with rain at intervals. At 8 P. M. of that date -I put the ship under short sail, and hauled upon the wind to the -northward, deeming it imprudent to continue on our course through the -night, because, by my calculations, we were in the vicinity of land. -In the morning the weather moderated, and at 5 A. M. we saw land -bearing from north-northeast to east, which proved to be the northern -part of Vancouver’s Island. At 2 P. M. we saw Scott’s Island bearing -north-northwest, sixteen miles distant. At nightfall the clouds wore -an ugly look; so we hauled by the wind to the westward, under short -sail. At midnight we had a heavy blow, but it died away by light, and -we saw Scott’s Island again; at 9 A. M. it bore south, five miles. -The wind beginning again to rise, I determined if possible to make -a harbor before night. With this intention I shaped my course for -Newettee. - -Newettee was a small inlet in the northwestern promontory of -Vancouver’s Island, and sheltered from the sea by a long island -running nearly east and west. Between the two was a strait, through -which we must enter to gain our port. As we drew near the entrance, -the wind became very light, and at sunset we were still three miles -from it. Being myself entirely unacquainted with the coast, I was -inclined to lay off until morning; but my officers were all more -or less familiar with it, and so positive of their knowledge that -I concluded to proceed. At eight in the evening we crossed the bar -at the mouth of the strait, and entered. The wind had fallen now to -a dead calm, and left us exposed to a very strong current, which -carried us toward an inlet in the island to the north of us; and at -the same time it was evident that we were approaching the shore very -fast. Nothing could surpass the terrific appearance of the scenery; -perpendicular cliffs towered from the water’s edge to a lofty height, -against which the sea beat with great violence. The ship getting no -steerage-way from her sails, and being in fact entirely unmanageable, -we hoisted out our boats to tow. The long-boat, which was of the most -consequence, sunk alongside; the yawl and the whaleboat were both -got ahead, but were so light that they had very little effect on the -vessel. We were now within three rods of a high projecting point, -and the soundings showed forty-five fathoms of water. We let go the -kedge-anchor to keep the bow off, and it had the desired effect. By -great exertions in the boats, assisted in the ship by the application -of all the oars we had, we barely succeeded in keeping clear of the -rocks, which could now be reached with an oar. As the tide swept us -along, we were threatened with destruction by every sea which dashed -against them. At length, by the aid of a light air which sprung up, -we got out of the irregular current near the shore, and, slipping -our cable and leaving our anchor, moved towards the harbor on the -south side of the straits. When about two thirds of the way across, -I despatched a boat with an officer to find the entrance. The boat -not returning in due time, I discharged a musket as a signal. It was -answered from a vessel lying within, and shortly after one of the -officers came aboard her, and informed us that it was the ship Pearl -of Boston, Capt. Ebbets.[25] He very politely offered to pilot us -in, and by his assistance we were soon brought safely to anchor in -fifteen fathoms of water. This was the 10th of April, 1805. - - -II. - - Newettee and the Natives.--Kygarney.--Norfolk Sound.--Sell - Part of my Cargo to the Russians.--Governor Baranoff.--Chatham - Straits.--Newettee again.--Return to Chatham Straits.--Trade - with the Indians.--On the Rocks.--Sail to Norfolk Sound for - Repairs.--Arrival of Resanoff and Party.--The Juno sold to the - Russians.--Departure of my Crew for Canton. - -At last I was at anchor on the Northwest Coast. Newettee was one -of the southernmost harbors frequented by American fur-traders, -being in lat. 51° N., and long. 128° W. It was nothing more than a -nook, as I said before, in the northern end of Vancouver’s Island. -We found it tolerably well sheltered from all winds except those -from the north and northeast; on this quarter it was exposed to a -reach of about three miles. As the prevalent wind during our stay -of ten days was from the south and southwest, we lay in perfect -safety, notwithstanding it was one continued gale, accompanied with -hail and rain. Everything around us, the sea, the sky, and the -precipitous shore, covered with a forest of heavy timber, wore a -most gloomy aspect. The Indians had no permanent residence here, -but made it merely a place of resort for traffic on the arrival of -ships. For this purpose it was considered at certain seasons one -of the best harbors on the coast, as there are many large villages -in its vicinity. We were visited daily by a great number of the -Indians, who generally brought with them a few sea-otter skins, but -not enough to make trade brisk. They were exceedingly sharp in all -their intercourse with us, being great beggars, withal. It seemed -impossible to satisfy them for their skins, and they were ready to -grasp at everything they saw. They were a very stout and robust -people, and in some things not destitute of skill. Their boats were -hewn from a single log, and varied in size from sixteen feet in -length and three in breadth, to thirty-five in length and six in -breadth. Their paddles were made and ornamented with a great deal of -neatness. - -Deriving but little benefit from our traffic, we employed ourselves -in putting the ship in good order for beating about the coast. By -the 20th we had completed our work, and weighed anchor, and put to -sea in company with the Pearl, directing our course to the northward -of Kygarney, a harbor in lat. 54°30′ N., which, from its central -situation, is considered the best place of resort for ships on their -first arrival, to obtain information for establishing a rate of -trade. For several days we sailed in a thick fog, which, lifting at -intervals, showed us different points of Queen Charlotte’s Island. We -gained our port on the 27th, and found there the ships Vancouver, -Captain Brown, and Caroline, Captain Sturgis, both of Boston; the -latter, having obtained her cargo, about to leave the coast for -Canton. - -During our stay here we got in a new mizzen-mast in place of the old -one, which was sprung, and furnished our vessel with such other spars -as we thought we should need. We were daily visited by the Indians, -who generally brought a few skins; but they were so extravagant in -their demands for them that it was impossible to trade. We frequently -had thirty or forty lying about the decks the whole day long, -endeavoring to extort unreasonable prices for their furs, at the same -time affecting the utmost indifference whether they sold them or not. -Occasionally they were quite insulting; but policy induced us to put -up with insults, in hopes of driving a bargain. - -The numerous inlets in the vicinity abounded with salmon, and every -other variety of fish, and wild game was very plenty. But on the -whole the harbor was poor and unsafe. The land here, as at Newettee, -was exceedingly elevated, rising abruptly from the shore, and covered -with heavy timber, chiefly of the fir kind. The water is very deep, -which compelled a vessel to anchor so near the land as to be exposed -to any hostile demonstration on the part of the savages.[26] Attacks -were not rare when only one ship was in port. From long intercourse -with American traders, the natives had become extremely expert in the -use of the musket, in the choice of which they showed great judgment -and sagacity, and invariably selected a king’s arm in preference to -the most finished fowling-piece. On account of the many instances of -bloodshed by them, they were not allowed to come on board armed, but -it was necessary to show them every indulgence within the bounds of -prudence. - -Not being likely to receive much benefit from a longer stay here, -I resolved to proceed at once to the settlement of the Russians on -Norfolk Sound, since a great part of my cargo consisted of articles -adapted to their use. We had rum, tobacco, molasses, sugar, rice, -wooden ware, duffels,[27] &c., which the Indians will take only as -presents, as well as those commodities intended for trade with them, -viz. blankets, muskets, powder, and balls. - -On the 7th of May we put to sea, with pleasant weather and a moderate -breeze from the west, and directed our course to the northward. On -the 8th, the wind increased to a gale, and veered to the south, -which brought thick fog and rain. On the 9th it became clear, and we -obtained a good view of the land, and discovered that we were near -the entrance of the sound, about mid-channel, with Mount Edgecombe -bearing northwest, ten miles distant. We stood in under a press of -sail, and at about eleven came to anchor in Magee’s Harbor, as it was -called, on the west side of the sound. We found erected on the shore -a guide-post, pointing out the direction of the village, and the date -of its establishment. We were soon visited by several baidarkas[28] -with Kodiak Indians, from whom we endeavored to obtain information. -The only word they used, which we could understand, was Baranoff, -which we knew to be the name of the governor or superintendent of the -settlement. As soon as the news of our arrival in the sound reached -there, a pilot was despatched to our assistance, and, the wind being -favorable, he brought us round to the village, and we anchored on the -10th of May abreast of the fort. - -Mr. Abraham Jones, an American in the Russian service, immediately -came on board, with the Governor’s compliments, and kind offers of -protection, and any aid we might need which it was in his power to -give. Accompanied by Mr. Moorfield, I accepted an invitation to go -on shore and have an interview with him. Mr. Jones officiated as -interpreter. I was introduced by him to his Excellency, and received -with every mark of friendship and hospitality. After exchanging the -usual compliments, we were ushered into an apartment where we found -a table spread with all the luxuries the place afforded. While we -regaled ourselves with the sumptuous fare, the conversation turned to -the subject of my cargo. The Governor appeared willing and desirous -to exchange furs on fair terms for such articles as they needed. We -returned on board in the evening, well pleased with our reception, I -might say agreeably disappointed, as I had been led to believe from -various reports that we should find the Russians little advanced from -the savage state. - -As the success of my voyage depended on the utmost possible despatch, -no time was lost in establishing a rate of exchange with our new -friends; which being adjusted to our mutual advantage, I was enabled -to disencumber the vessel of a large portion of the bulkiest part of -my cargo,--such as has been mentioned on a preceding page. - -From the kind treatment received from the Governor, I was induced -to form a very favorable opinion of him. He was sixty-five years of -age, and had spent the last eighteen years of his life at different -stations on the coast, in the capacity of agent and officer of the -Russian American Company,--excluded, as it were, from all civilized -society, except that of a few of his fellow-adventurers. He possessed -a strong mind, easy manners and deportment, and was apparently well -fitted for the place he filled. He commanded the greatest respect -from the Indians, who regarded him with mingled feelings of love and -fear. - -Owing to frequent storms of rain, which unavoidably retarded the -progress of our business, my stay at this place was prolonged until -the 27th of May. With pleasant weather and a moderate breeze we -then weighed anchor, and sailed from Norfolk Sound. We proceeded -up Chatham Straits as high as Lynn Canal, in lat. 59° N., thence -southward to Newettee in lat. 51° N., touching at as many of the -intermediate harbors as we found it practicable, and making some -trade. We arrived at Newettee on the 28th of June, at the same time -with the brig Lydia and the ships Vancouver and Athawalpa. The latter -had been attacked by the Indians, who killed Capt. Porter and all the -officers, and wounded many of the sailors. She had fallen in with the -other ship and brig, belonging to the same owners, and had proceeded -to this place for assistance. Here we found the Pearl and the Mary. - -I shall not attempt a detail of the occurrences, or give a -description of the harbors and inlets we visited in our voyage from -Norfolk Sound. While here we rendered all the assistance in our power -in manning and equipping the Athawalpa for Canton, and then, on the -11th of July, again left Newettee and sailed northward for Chatham -Straits. Touching at a number of places on our passage, on the 27th -we entered the mouth of the straits, and proceeded up as far as -Point Retreat in lat. 58° N. Here the Indians were very numerous, -and appeared to have a great number of skins for sale, but declined -trading, unless we brought the ship to anchor, which was unnecessary, -as the wind was light and the sea smooth. There was nothing to -interrupt a traffic if they really felt willing to open one; but, in -order to comply with their wishes as far as possible, I made several -attempts to get an anchorage, and was only prevented by the depth of -the water. Still the Indians kept round us in great numbers, there -being at least thirty or forty canoes of them. At the same time we -perceived that they were all armed, and this, with their obstinacy, -gave us strong suspicions that they were bent on mischief more -than commerce. As it was nearly sunset, and there was no prospect -of bringing them to terms, I concluded to make the best of my way -down the straits. The wind was light, and the tide against us. The -Indians, seeing plainly that we could make but little progress in -the course of the night, went on shore, and returned at daylight. -They came with the apparent determination to board us; but in their -absence we had made ample preparations to meet in a hostile as well -as a friendly manner. Seeing the impossibility of obtaining access to -the ship by force, they changed their tactics, and were inclined to -trade with us in a peaceable way. We therefore admitted one of the -chiefs at the gangway, and through him commenced a brisk traffic, -which continued until we had bought their whole stock of furs. -They then left us to continue our course down the straits without -molestation. - -On the 5th of August we came to anchor in an extensive harbor, -situated near the entrance of Chatham Straits, between Points -Sullivan and Ellis. Here we were detained several days by calms and -light westerly winds, which blew directly into the harbor, while -the entrance was so narrow that we found it impossible to beat out. -On the 10th we got under weigh, with the boats ahead to tow; but -the ebb tide began to run very strong, and drift the ship towards a -small island lying midway in the channel. Notwithstanding our utmost -efforts to avoid it by the use of oars and letting go an anchor, in -the darkness which had come on we had approached nearer the shore -than we supposed, and finally the keel struck upon the rocks. The -stream anchor was carried out with all possible despatch in order to -heave the vessel off, but in vain. The falling tide had left her too -fast. The only alternative left was to secure her in the best manner -possible before she began to keel over, and to prepare ourselves for -defence in case of an attack from the savages. Having furled all -the sails, sent down the top-gallant yards and masts, and lashed -our heavy guns amidship, we equipped our three boats with arms, -ammunition, and provision, lest the ship should bilge, which we had -great reason to apprehend, as we had still on board about two thirds -of our cargo. But as the tide left her we found that she did not lie -so much on her beam-ends as we had anticipated, but was supported by -three sharp rocks, one about midships, and the other two abreast the -fore and mizzen chains; her keel had also taken the rocks in several -places. - -At sunrise the Indians began to assemble about us. At first they kept -aloof, and seemed to entertain some suspicions as to our movements; -but after going round the ship and examining her situation very -carefully, we prevailed upon some of them to come alongside. We -gave them to understand that we had hauled on shore to mend the -copper; and to convince them, I employed a gang of hands under the -ship’s bottom for that purpose. At 9 A. M. we had low water, and -as the perpendicular rise and fall of the tide was about fifteen -feet, we could now walk all round the vessel, and under the keel in -some places. In the mean time some of the officers were employed in -trading with the Indians for their furs; and to make ourselves secure -in case they had any hostile intentions, we succeeded in enticing one -of the chiefs on board, whom we detained as a hostage. Thus relieved -in a measure from any apprehension of an attack from the natives, and -having done everything in our power to ease the ship, we lost no time -in caulking and stopping in the best possible manner such places as -had been strained open by her ponderous weight upon the rocks. The -two seams below the plank-sheer were nearly an inch wide, as likewise -every butt from the fore to the mizzen-mast. To clear the bilge of -the ship we rigged one of our pumps in the main hatchway, and drew -out a considerable quantity of molasses and water. After some brisk -work, we had the satisfaction of finding that the vessel righted with -the flowing tide, and at high water, to our great joy, she floated. -When we hauled into the stream again, we were happy to find that -she did not leak so badly as we had reason to anticipate. The only -perceptible injury was on the side which laid on the rocks, and that -was bent or hogged up, as the phrase is, about half a foot. We now -liberated our hostage, after making him a very liberal present for -his detention. - -While we were aground, we had a favorable opportunity to examine the -copper on the ship’s bottom, which proved to be in a very shattered -condition; and as we had reason to apprehend more damage than was -visible, I deemed it advisable to proceed at once to the Russian -settlement at Norfolk Sound, where, under protection from the -Indians, we might discharge our cargo, and make repairs in peace. -Accordingly, on the 12th of August we put to sea, and made the best -of our way for that place. On our route we fell in again with the -Mary, and, in company with her, arrived on the 14th, and anchored -abreast the village. I was again received by Governor Baranoff with -that kind and obliging hospitality which made him loved and respected -by every visitor. - -No time was lost in preparing to lay the Juno on shore, in order to -ascertain the extent of the damage. In this I was greatly facilitated -by the Governor, who allowed me to occupy an old hulk, into which I -shifted my cargo, with the exception of the furs. We had collected -about a thousand sea-otter skins, and these I sent to Canton by the -Mary, which sailed on the 20th. Notwithstanding our utmost exertions, -our preparations were not completed until the 1st of September, and -then, to my great surprise and regret, I found twenty of the floor -timbers broken, and the copper in a very ragged condition. I was, -however, gratified to find the planks all sound and good except in -one place, where the carpenter cut out a large fragment of the rock, -which had penetrated the bottom, and adhered so closely as to prevent -the admission of water. By the 6th of September we had completed such -repairs as were practicable and hauled into the stream, knowing no -other alternative than to make the best of our crippled ship, and -endeavor to prosecute the remainder of our voyage with more caution. - -Having again adjusted the rigging, replenished our stores of wood -and water, and put everything in the best possible trim for sea, -I submitted to Governor Baranoff a project of an expedition to -the southern coast of New Albion and California, which he readily -accepted. My idea was to take on board fifty or sixty Kodiak Indians, -with their canoes, for the purpose of catching sea-otter, those -animals being very numerous on that coast. Everything in this new -plan being agreed upon and settled, we were to wait until the 1st of -October for the Indians, who were out on a hunting expedition, under -the protection of two small vessels, and expected to return by the -last of the month. - -While we were waiting, the Russian brig Maria arrived at the -settlement. She was under the command of Andrew W. Maschin, a -lieutenant in the navy, and had on board as passenger Nicholas -Resanoff, a nobleman, who, after an unsuccessful embassy to Japan, -returned to Kamtchatka _en route_ to the posts on the Northwest Coast -belonging to the Russian American Company, in which he was himself -a large proprietor. With him came also two other lieutenants in the -Russian navy, Nicholas Schwostoff and John Davidoff, Doctor Geo. -Langsdorff, and two ship-carpenters, Messrs. Korükin and Popoff, -who were to build a ship at this place. To all these new-comers I -was formally introduced by my friend the Governor, and received the -assurances of his Excellency, Baron von Resanoff, that he would -facilitate, in every way in his power, the execution of my California -scheme. Several days after this arrival were passed in festivity -and mirth, and business was entirely suspended. The appearance of -so distinguished a personage, whose authority was for a time to -supersede even that of the Governor, was an event of great moment. - -In conversation with Dr. Langsdorff on the inconvenience of building -and equipping a large vessel where the necessary materials were so -difficult to procure, I observed to him, jocosely, that I would sell -them my ship, which would obviate the necessity of building. The -conversation being communicated to his Excellency, he wished to know -whether I would really sell my ship, and if so, what would be the -price. This was a subject on which I had not reflected, and which -required some deliberation on several accounts. Having about two -thirds of my cargo on board, it was necessary to ascertain of what it -consisted to estimate its value, being well aware that I could not -dispose of my vessel by itself alone. How my officers and crew were -to leave the coast was another serious difficulty. But while I was -deliberating on the expediency of the measure, the two small vessels, -the Yermerk and Russisloff, which I mentioned above, returned from -the hunting expedition. The former, a craft of forty tons, appeared -to be suitable for my purpose, and I therefore availed myself of the -opportunity, and offered my ship, and the remainder of my cargo, for -the sum of $68,000, payable in the following manner, viz.: bills of -exchange on the Directors of the Russian American Company at St. -Petersburg for the sum of $54,638; 572 sea-otter skins for the sum of -$13,062; and $300 in cash; together with the fore-named vessel, the -Yermerk, completely rigged, two suits of sails, four carriage guns, -thirty muskets, with ammunition for the same, and provisions for my -crew for one hundred days. This offer was accepted, and the Juno -passed into the hands of the Russian American Company. On the 5th of -October, I delivered her up, under a salute from the fort and the -ship, when I hoisted the stars and stripes on the Yermerk, which had -become my property. - -Having consummated our bargain by delivering up our ship, and taking -possession of our little craft, we set to work immediately to put -her into a condition to transport ourselves and the sea-otter skins -to Canton. This work was completed by the 15th; and while we were -waiting for favorable weather to put to sea, his Excellency suggested -to me the advisability of despatching the Yermerk for Canton, and -remaining myself at the settlement until spring, and then embarking -with himself and suite for Ochotsk, and proceeding to St. Petersburg -by land. The kind and courteous manner in which this proposition was -made to me was too flattering to be received with indifference. After -duly considering the subject, having in view the probable advantage -of presenting my bills of exchange in person the next winter, in -accordance with the advice of my friends, I concluded to avail myself -of his Excellency’s generous offer. I therefore gave the command -of the Yermerk to my first officer, Mr. George W. Stetson, and the -superintendence of the business to Mr. James Moorfield. Storms and -adverse winds prevented them from sailing until the 27th, when, with -a favorable breeze, they took their departure from Norfolk Sound, -with our most fervent prayers for their welfare and safe arrival at -Canton. - -After taking a long parting look at the little vessel fading in the -horizon, I returned to the village, full of melancholy forebodings -of a tedious and dreary winter in that rude and inhospitable region. -But it was of no use to repine; the business was settled, and I -concluded I would take things as they came, and make the best of -them. I had retained in my service, as valet, Edward D. Parker, one -of my ordinary sailors, but a very useful man of all work. A barber -by trade, he was also a tolerably good tailor, and performer on the -violin and clarinet. This latter accomplishment I thought might be -useful in dispelling the blues, if we should at any time be troubled -with that complaint. An apartment was assigned me by the Governor, -adjoining the room of Dr. Langsdorff, to which I removed my goods and -chattels. I had a sleeping bunk fitted up in one corner, and made -everything as comfortable as possible for a long siege. Having thus -taken up my residence among the Russians, I will pause to make some -explanations connected with my narrative. - - -III. - - Nicholas Resanoff and the Japan Expedition.--The History of the - Russian Settlement at Norfolk Sound and the Founding of New - Archangel.--The Chinese Project.--Dr. Langsdorff and other New - Friends.--Visit to the Indians driven by the Russians from Archangel. - -In September, 1803, an expedition sailed from Cronstadt, Russia, -for the Pacific Ocean, consisting of the two ships Nadeschda and -Neva, the former commanded by Capt. Krusenstern, and the latter by -Capt. Lisiansky, both experienced officers of the Imperial navy. -This was the first adventure the Russians ever attempted in the -Southern Ocean, and was prompted by the extension of the trade of -the Russian American Fur Company. It had the double purpose of -supplying the settlements on the Northwest Coast, and negotiating -a commercial treaty with Japan, which, being near the settlements, -would be a convenient place to obtain provisions and dispose of -commodities. Encouragement had been given by a letter received many -years previous from the Japanese, granting permission to come to the -port of Nangasaki; on the strength of this letter, and in view of the -advantages and facilities for intercourse, it was thought expedient -by the Imperial government to send an embassy to this strange people. -Accordingly, Nicholas Resanoff, a nobleman and Chamberlain to his -Majesty, the Emperor of all the Russias, was appointed, and embarked -in the Nadeschda, with powers plenipotentiary to negotiate with -the Court of Jedo. This part of the undertaking, as is well known, -proved a failure. After remaining at Nangasaki six months, subject a -part of the time to a partial imprisonment, and throughout to absurd -formalities and ridiculous vexations, he despaired of bringing about -a favorable result, and was compelled to depart for Kamtchatka, -without even obtaining an interview with the Emperor, and, in fact, -accomplishing nothing. - -Baron von Resanoff was a person of rank and distinction, possessed of -many amiable qualities, and highly esteemed by the Emperor Alexander. -He was kind and affable to all around him, and always ready to hear -complaints, and afford every redress in his power for grievances. He -married the daughter of the famous Schelikoff, who was the pioneer -in the Russian discoveries and settlements on the Northwest Coast. -This circumstance caused him to be largely interested in the Fur -Company. His mission to Japan having terminated unfavorably, his -intention then was to visit and inspect all the stations of the -Company on the coast. He left the Nadeschda therefore at Kamtchatka, -and embarked on board the brig Maria. After touching at various -Russian establishments, he finally arrived at Norfolk Sound. The -Neva, Captain Lisiansky, pursued its course directly to the island -of Kodiak, and thence to Norfolk Sound, where it arrived August 20, -1804, and joined, by previous agreement, a small squadron of three -vessels under the command of Governor Baranoff. - -The Russians had formerly a settlement on the Sound, situated several -miles from their present location, called Archangel, which was -destroyed by the Indians, and all the inhabitants massacred. The -Indians then established themselves on the spot, and erected strong -fortifications. The object of assembling the vessels was to chastise -and expel them, and this was accomplished after a siege of four days. -The Russians then selected an elevated and commanding situation in -the immediate vicinity. It was a singular round piece of land with -a flat top, standing out in the sea, and bearing the appearance of -a work of human hands. The only connection with the shore was by -a narrow isthmus. Here they put up several buildings, mounted a -considerable battery of heavy guns, and gave the place the name of -New Archangel. - -The Neva then returned to Kodiak, where she wintered, and in the fall -of 1805 proceeded to Canton and rejoined the Nadeschda, which had -previously sailed thither. The aim in this movement was to accomplish -a third project of the Russian American Company, which, like the -Japan scheme, was unsuccessful. They desired to obtain permission -from the Chinese government to continue their intercourse with the -port of Canton, and so enable their ships to return by sea from the -settlements to Russia, with the proceeds of their furs. But the -Chinese objected, and insisted on their confining themselves to their -inland traffic at the north. Thus commerce for the future with Canton -was interdicted. I relate these events because they took place but a -short time previous to my sojourn at Norfolk Sound, and account for -the presence there of several persons of distinction. - -George von Langsdorff,[29] a native of Frankfort, Germany, was -by profession a doctor of medicine and surgery, and by taste a -naturalist. He was a volunteer on the Russian American expedition, -and was in pursuit of science. On his arrival in Kamtchatka a -second time, he was invited by Baron von Resanoff to accompany -him to the Northwest Coast of America, as his physician. He was -particularly moved to accept the invitation by the opportunity -which was thus offered for the collection of specimens of natural -history. The Doctor, unlike Baron von Resanoff, spoke the English -language fluently. As I lived under the same roof with him, we became -almost inseparable, participating both in each others’ pleasures -and troubles. Lieutenants Schwostoff, Davidoff, and Maschin were -highly accomplished and meritorious officers, as were likewise the -two ship-builders, Messrs. Popoff and Korükin. They all seemed to -vie in attention and kindness to me as their guest, and by general -invitation I dined with these gentlemen at the Governor’s table. - -The stock of provisions at the settlement had been very small and -of the poorest kind, and the increase of the population by the -arrival of the Ambassador and his suite made the subject of supplies -for the coming winter a matter for sober consideration; but by the -purchase of the Juno they were relieved from all serious anxiety on -that score, as a great part of her cargo consisted of good wholesome -provisions, such as beef, pork, flour, bread, rice, sugar, molasses, -rum, and tobacco. In fact, the desire to obtain these stores had -great weight in their negotiations with me. There was still, however, -some deficiency in inferior kinds of food, and a small vessel had -been despatched some time previously to Kodiak. It was so late in -the season she did not return. Now they were not afraid of winter -storms, for they had the Juno to send on the errand. She sailed, -under the command of Lieutenants Schwostoff and Davidoff, on the 27th -of October. - -In the mean while the whole village, comprising a population of -150 Russians, and perhaps 250 Aleutians, was actively engaged in -preparing to meet the rigors of the approaching season. They built -log-houses, work-shops, and barracks. My friend Langsdorff was all -the time ranging the woods and the shores with his fowling-piece, in -quest of wild game for specimens, with which, after they had been -skinned for science’s sake, my man Parker made stews of various -descriptions. Being merely a sojourner at the settlement, I occupied -myself in watching the labors of others, getting acquainted with the -different characters and localities of the place, and learning the -use and management of baidarkas. - -By the beginning of November the novelty of our situation had worn -off; the circumscribed range of our wanderings from the village -became monotonous and tiresome, and, as a number of our associates -had departed for Kodiak, we began to look round for some new object -of interest. The Doctor had frequently expressed a desire to become -more acquainted with the Sitcha Indians, and resolved on making -them a visit at their village, on the opposite side of the island, -if I would accompany him, to which I readily agreed. As these were -the very Indians who had recently been so roughly handled by the -Russians, it was considered by the Governor and other friends to be a -rather perilous adventure; but we relied a good deal on our not being -Russians, and upon the fact that I had been among them during the -previous summer from a people with whom they were on friendly terms. -Perceiving that we were bent on going, the Governor gave his consent, -and furnished us with baidarkas, Kodiak Indians, and an Indian woman -as an interpreter. The latter was a daughter of one of the principal -chiefs of the tribe we were to visit. She had lived with the Russians -five or six years, and with her as a companion we had little fear of -any other than a friendly reception. - -We soon completed the preparations for our departure. We took guns, -pistols, powder, and shot, for shooting as well as for safety; rice, -tea, sugar, biscuit, dried fish, and brandy, for our food. Beside -some kitchen utensils for dressing these provisions and a small -tent to sleep in, we were provided with several ells of linen and -woollen cloth, glass beads, needles, tobacco, large fishing-hooks, -looking-glasses, and various similar trifles for presents to the -Indians. Langsdorff, the interpreter, and myself each occupied a -baidarka, and had two natives each to row. - -We were three days in reaching the village, but beyond a few -Indians, with whom we encamped at night, we saw nothing of interest. -By nightfall of the third day we had nearly reached the place of -our destination; but owing to a strong wind and tide, which were -directly against us, we had the mortification of seeing the sun go -down before the whole distance was accomplished. We were now in -rather an unpleasant situation; to return was impossible, and to -land might have excited suspicion, for the fire which was necessary -as a protection from the cold would have betrayed us. We determined -at last to make our way to the settlement, notwithstanding we should -reach it in utter darkness. Scarcely was this resolution taken, when -we were observed from the land, and hailed in a loud voice, but -neither our interpreter nor our Kodiak oarsmen would reply. This -sorely provoked Langsdorff and myself, and we were on the point of -expressing our anger warmly, when a great commotion arose on shore. -Suddenly, some hundred naked Indians, armed with muskets, and holding -firebrands in their hands, thronged to the water’s edge. No sooner -had we made known who we were, and approached the shore, than we were -surrounded in a tumultuous manner by the Kaluschians, who dragged us -towards their fortress, seizing upon our effects at the same time, -whether to rob us of them or to restore them we were then ignorant. -I expected nothing but an immediate and violent death. The scene -certainly was one to inspire terror; the glare of the torches, the -gesticulations of the savages, the brandishing of the weapons, the -rough handling we received, were not calculated to inspire confidence -in men whom from the outset we had distrusted. But happily our -fears were groundless, and the demonstrations of the natives, as we -afterwards learned, were well intended offices of friendship. - -We were hurried over a rather fatiguing road to the top of a high -rock, on which stood the fortress, and were immediately introduced -into the very spacious habitation of the chief Dlchaetin, the father -of our interpreter. He assigned us a place directly opposite the -entrance, where we spread a carpet, and, by the light of a very large -fire on a raised hearth in the centre of the room, were subjected to -the gaze of some hundreds of the natives. Shortly after, to our great -astonishment, our packages were brought to us from our baidarkas, not -the smallest trifle being withheld, although there were undoubtedly -many articles among them which the bearers must have coveted, and -under the cover of the night might have easily concealed. Even my -musket, pistols, and powder-horn, which in my hurry I had left -behind, were delivered to me without the slightest injury. - -We had scarcely refreshed ourselves with a dish of tea and a glass of -punch, when we were invited by the eldest and most distinguished of -the chiefs, the commandant of the fortress, to come and visit him. He -received us with much kindness, and presented me with a sea-otter’s -skin, and Dr. Langsdorff with a beautiful sea-otter’s tail. Much -fatigued, and in need of rest, we returned to the habitation of our -host; but we found ourselves in too exciting a scene to permit of -sleep. While eating a very good dish of fish and rice prepared by -him, we were entertained with a lively and pleasing melody, sung by -a number of men seated round the fire, which had been piled up to a -great height. Though the night was cold and windy, the savages went -barefoot to the neighboring forest, and brought home large blocks -of wood upon their naked shoulders, and heaped them on the hearth. -It was incomprehensible how the roof, covered as it was merely with -bark, was not entirely consumed. Once it did take fire; but a boy -ran like a mouse up the side of the wall, and extinguished it. The -sparks flew out of the opening at the top, and the flames roared -as in a blacksmith’s forge; and we could not close our eyes till -their fierceness had in a measure subsided, and the danger was less -imminent, though the fire was very hot through the whole night. - -On the morning of the next day we carried to the commandant from whom -we had received the presents the evening before the counter presents -due to him. At the same time, we made the proper tribute of presents -to the parents of our interpreter, the latter having given us to -understand that the sooner it was done, the greater would be their -esteem for us. To her father we gave some ells of woollen cloth, a -large knife, some fish-hooks, and some pounds of tobacco; to her -mother a shift, some needles, a small looking-glass, some ribbon, -and some glass beads. As soon as we had performed these necessary -ceremonies, we were permitted to walk about wherever we chose, -without the trouble of guides. Dr. Langsdorff even shot some birds -close to the fortress without attracting any attention. - -The natives of the Northwest Coast of America are called by the -Russians Kaluschians, but this people call themselves Schitchachon, -or inhabitants of Sitcha. Expelled from Norfolk Sound, they had -fortified themselves here, upon a rock which rose perpendicularly -to the height of several hundred feet above the water’s edge. The -only possible access to it was on the northwest side, and here it -had been rendered extremely difficult by very large trunks of trees -strewn over it. The rock itself was secured against the attack of an -enemy by a double palisade, measuring from twelve to fifteen feet in -height, and from three to four in thickness. A natural wall of earth -beyond the palisading, on the side towards the sea, conceals the -habitations so effectually, that they cannot be discerned from a ship. - -The houses within the fortress were placed in regular rows, and built -of thick planks, fastened to posts which formed the frame-work, and -covered at the top with bark. The entrance was at the gable end, -and was often stained with different colored earths. The interiors -of their dwellings were indescribably filthy, filled with smoke, -and perfumed with decayed fish and train-oil. The men painted their -faces, and, as well as the women, delighted in profuse ornaments; -like other savages, they were particularly pleased with glittering -trinkets, or European garments. The women on the coast had one very -strange fashion, which I think is peculiar to this part of the world. -At the age of fourteen or fifteen, they make a hole in their under -lip and insert a small piece of wood like a button. This is increased -in size as they advance in age, until it is three or four inches -long, and one or two wide. I saw one old woman, the wife of a chief, -whose lip ornament was so large, that, by a peculiar motion of her -under lip, she could almost conceal her whole face with it. You will -naturally inquire the reason of this barbarous method of adornment. -I might reply by asking the reason of some equally strange fashions -among civilized nations. But, without casting any reflections on my -countrywomen, I may be allowed to make one observation, which has -probably occurred already to my readers; and that is, that it is -utterly impossible for the fair sex of the Northwest Coast to enjoy -the luxury of a kiss. - -The occupations of the Sitcha Indians, beside hunting and fishing, -appeared to be making canoes, fishing-lines and hooks, and wooden -ware. The women manufacture a kind of carpet out of the wool of wild -sheep, and are very expert in wicker-work; some of their baskets are -so closely woven as to hold water. Both sexes are expert in the use -of firearms, and are excellent judges of their quality. I could not -find that they had any organized government. Success in fishing and -in the chase constitutes the source of their wealth, and consequently -of their influence. In feuds between different families the right of -the strongest prevails, and they are only banded together against -common enemies. - -Having passed two days at the Indian settlement, we set out on -our return to New Archangel. On our route we visited the chief -Schinchetaez, with whom we had passed a night on our way to Sitcha. -This man had been friendly to the Russians, and was in consequence -an outcast from his own people. He was glad to see us again, and -entertained us hospitably. We gave him a few presents, which were -thankfully received, and, had he been able, he would have given in -return. While with him we saw some Kaluschian Indians go into the sea -to bathe, when the thermometer was below freezing. They ran for some -distance over the ice, and then plunged in, and performed all manner -of antics, with the same apparent enjoyment as if it had been a warm -spring. - -[Illustration: NEW ARCHANGEL OR SITCHA] - -After taking leave of our host we entered our baidarkas and resumed -our journey; and in due time reached New Archangel and our -friends, without any accident or occurrence of sufficient interest to -record. - - -IV. - - Preparations for Winter.--Winter Amusements.--Resanoff makes an - Expedition to California.--Battle between a Wolf and a Ram.--I sail - for Ochotsk in the Russisloff. - -Shortly after our return from the excursion narrated in the last -chapter, our friends Schwostoff and Davidoff arrived from Kodiak with -the Juno, and brought a considerable quantity of dried fish, oil, -beans, &c., to increase our stock of winter provisions. The dried -fish was called ukler, and was prepared by splitting and taking out -the backbone of the fish, and then laying it in the sun. Thus cured, -it was eaten as a substitute for bread. The people having now a -fair allowance of provisions, the operations at the settlement went -on quite encouragingly. In the course of the month of December the -carpenter got the keel of a new vessel laid, and made good progress -in cutting the timber and sawing the plank. The two brigs, Maria -and Russisloff, were hauled upon the beach and shored up out of the -tide’s way. They furnished very good accommodations for a large -number of the workmen. The Juno remained riding at anchor in the -harbor. Watchmen were stationed along the shore, in both directions -from the fort, and shouted “All’s well,” from one end to the other, -at intervals throughout the whole night. All were working cheerfully, -and hard enough to kill anybody but Russians. The Indians made us -frequent ceremonial visits, and displayed their talent for long -speeches and for dancing. They seemed anxious to bury the hatchet, -and renew intercourse on friendly terms, which was also the wish of -the settlers. In short, everything was in good trim for the winter. - -The fare for the present allowed even to the poor workmen was -tolerable, as a small portion of the cargo of the Juno was dealt out -to them; but the officers had the control of all the luxuries,--if -such they may be called; and these, together with the game and fish -that were continually brought in, supplied the Governor’s table with -an abundance of good cheer. There were seven of us who regularly -dined at it, and by invitation we frequently had ten. - -By the last of the month the weather began to grow cooler; yet, -though it was December, we had little or no snow, but much rain and -fog. In the forenoon I generally took a stroll along the shore, with -my gun, to the place where the new vessel was building. One or two of -the officers usually accompanied me; and after reaching the spot we -would turn and walk the same distance, about a mile and a half, in -the opposite direction. Sometimes we carried home a little game. - -January brought cold, but not severe weather. The workmen began to -flag. The poor fellows had been driven too hard, regardless of wet -and snow. They were now getting sickly, and it was found necessary to -ease off their tasks a little. The officers, on the other hand, lived -comfortably enough, and even started a new kind of entertainment. -The Russians build their log houses in a very substantial manner, of -heavy timber, and stop the cracks perfectly tight with moss. Some -of them were very large, accommodating after a fashion fifty or -sixty persons. Several such were completed just at this time, and it -occurred to us that they were well calculated for ball-rooms, and -that we could pass away the tedious hours of the night in dancing. -We made out bravely in cotillons and contra-dances, but were rather -deficient at first in female partners. Many of the under officers had -their wives with them, and we picked out some of the Kodiak women, -who were accustomed to the Russian dances, and learned the figures -easily. When dressed in their finery they appeared quite respectably. -His Excellency the Plenipotentiary was always with us on these -occasions, and would upon an emergency take the fiddle, on which he -was quite a good performer. Dr. Langsdorff and my man Parker took -turns at the bow, and with plenty of good resin for the stomach as -well as the bow, we made “a gay season” of it. - -In February the weather was rather more severe than the previous -months, but by no means so cold as in the United States, latitude -42°. The harbors and inlets about the sound were free from ice. With -all our attempts to get up amusements, the time hung heavily upon -our hands, and we did little else than sleep and long for spring. -The Sitcha Indians brought in excellent fresh halibut, which they -exchanged for fish-hooks and old clothes. To me especially they were -very friendly, and came often to my lodgings, seeming to know that I -was not one of the Russians. - -The waters of the neighborhood abounded with numerous and choice -varieties of the finny tribe, which could be taken at all seasons -of the year. The poor Russians might have fared better than they -did, had they been spared from their work to catch them. Labor and -exposure began to tell on them. The scurvy had killed a number of -them, and many were sick. Dr. Langsdorff frequently remonstrated in -their behalf, but to little purpose. - -There had been much talk of late among the higher officers upon the -expediency of making an expedition to California, with a view to -obtaining a fresh supply of provisions, and opening, if possible, -a traffic with the Spanish Mission at San Francisco. By the first -of March this enterprise was resolved upon and well matured, and -active preparations were made to put it into immediate execution. -His Excellency, Baron von Resanoff, decided to take charge of it in -person. This arrangement gave me some uneasiness, lest he should not -return in time to fulfil his promise to proceed with me in May in -the Juno to Ochotsk. I explained to him how great the disappointment -and inconvenience would be, if my departure was delayed until late -in the season. But he silenced my complaints by assuring me that he -had ordered the brig Maria, Captain Maschin, to be ready to sail for -Ochotsk as soon as the season would permit. With this promise I was -constrained to be satisfied. By the active exertion of Lieutenants -Schwostoff and Davidoff the Juno was quickly put in sailing trim, -and weighed anchor on the 8th of March for San Francisco. I was -invited to accompany them, but declined. Deprived of my friends and -companions, I occupied myself, as best I could, in making excursions -in baidarkas about the shores and harbors. - -Among the domestic animals of the village--and the number was very -limited, there being two old cows, eight or ten hogs, and as many -dogs--there were two sheep, a buck and a ewe, which I had presented -to the Governor on my first visit. The ewe in the course of the -winter had been devoured by the wolves or the bears, as it was said; -but I thought it more probable by some of the half-starved Russians. -The buck became quite a pet with the settlers. Towards spring he -began to take advantage of familiar treatment, and show many positive -signs of a pugnacious disposition, and with very little respect -for persons. As Billy and I were from the same country town, and -appeared to be alone among strangers, I always made it a point, when -I passed him, to salute him with the familiar phrase of “How are you, -Billy?” and he would seem to respond by a look of recognition. It so -happened, however, that one day, as I was coming from the Governor’s -house upon the hill, after a good substantial dinner, and had reached -the beginning of the descent where stood the sentinel with Billy -at a little distance from him, I gave him the usual greeting, and -began to go down, when, perfectly unconscious of having offended -man or beast, I received a contusion in the rear, which sent me -head-foremost down the declivity with telegraphic velocity, and -with a shock which seemed to disturb my whole stowage, even to the -very ground tier. I got up as soon as I could collect my scattered -senses, and brushed the dust out of my eyes, when looking up the hill -I saw Billy, the ram, from whom I had received the assault, making -significant demonstrations of another onslaught. I had scarcely -scrambled a little to one side before he came down again full charge. -This time I dodged him, and, not meeting the check he expected, he -went a considerable distance before he could recover himself. Still -unsatisfied with the result, he was preparing to make another bolt -up hill at me; but now, having the advantage of the ground, I was -ready to receive him. The current was this time against him, and -his headway a good deal impeded. I caught him by the neck and beat -him, and endeavored to turn him off; but as soon as I let him go, -he rushed upon me again. Finally, finding it impossible to get rid -of him, I took a stone to increase the solidity of my fist, with -which I was obliged to pound the creature till the blood ran freely. -There was still no yield in him. The sentinel, who had till how been -looking on,--to see fair play, I suppose,--seeing that I should -probably kill him, left his post and came to the rescue. Thus ended -the farcical scene of a battle between a sheep and a Wolf, in which -neither could rightfully claim the victory. - -April came, and no movement was made towards getting the Maria off -the beach, preparatory to the voyage to Ochotsk. Captain Maschin -complained that he could not get men. In fact, there was so much -work to be done at the settlement, and the number of hands so much -reduced by the California expedition, that it was impossible to spare -laborers for the vessels. Moreover, many of them were sick, and among -the healthy there were no sailors; so operations in the navigation -line were suspended. - -May commenced with quite pleasant and warm weather. About the 10th, -the ship Okain, Captain Jonathan Winship, arrived at the sound. -He came direct from the United States without any cargo, but for -the express purpose of obtaining Kodiak Indians and baidarkas for -a voyage to California to catch sea-otter, on the same plan I had -relinquished on the sale of my ship. He made all the necessary -arrangements, and sailed about the middle of the month. - -The mild weather melted the snow very fast, and by the last of May -the frost was all out of the ground. Governor Baranoff was desirous -of having a good kitchen garden, and so, to commence the business -with a sort of flourish, we made up a pretty substantial picnic -party. A little way back from the shore we found a considerable -clearing without underbrush, and here we staked out about two acres -of land. It was good soil, deep and rich, and we all tried our hand -at the spade. The Governor setting the example, we went to work with -a good will. Soon getting tired, we adjourned to the refreshments, at -which it was thought we showed more talent than at the spade. Some -of us, they told us, got quite _blue_ by the time we had finished -our labors. This was the first ground ever broken for a garden at -New Archangel. Another diversion was taking salmon, which at this -season ran up into the creeks and inlets in great numbers. As many of -the people as could be detached from their regular occupations were -set to catching them, and curing them for winter provisions, in the -manner I have before described. - -While waiting impatiently for the arrival of the Juno, I made many -excursions about the sound in my baidarka. About seven or eight miles -from the village, there was a hot-water spring which I visited. -Situated in a beautiful, romantic place, the water runs down from -the foot of a high mountain, in a small serpentine rivulet, for -several hundred yards, and empties into a broad basin, several rods -in diameter, which has a sandy bottom. The heat of the water at its -source is about 150°, and as it spreads over the basin below it cools -down to 100°. It is strongly impregnated with sulphur, and with salt -and magnesia. - -To our great joy, on the 21st of June the Juno returned from -California, with all our friends and a tolerable supply of wheat, -jerked beef, English beans, &c.; but his Excellency failed to make -any arrangement for the future. The Governor of San Francisco -remonstrated against sending Russian subjects to hunt sea-otter on -the shores and in the harbors of New Albion, and prevailed upon Baron -von Resanoff to promise to put a stop to all adventures of that -nature. - -I immediately applied to Resanoff to know how and when he intended -to fulfil his promise of providing me a passage to Ochotsk. It was -now the last of June, and there were no preparations in either of -the vessels for that purpose. He told me that the Juno should be got -ready as soon as the little vessel could be rigged to accompany her; -but the little vessel was yet on the stocks, and it did not appear to -me, from the rate at which the work was progressing, that she would -be in sailing order before August. In fact, I became quite alarmed, -lest the season should be so far advanced that I should be obliged -to make a winter journey across the Russian Empire. I had had some -conversation with Dr. Langsdorff about taking the brig Russisloff, -if they would allow me, and making my own way to Ochotsk. The Doctor -eagerly caught at the idea, and resolved to go with me, if I could -obtain her. I accordingly made the proposal to his Excellency, and -it was readily accepted. He offered to put as many men to work upon -the Russisloff as I needed. She was a little craft of twenty-five -tons burden, built by the Russian American Company at Bhering’s Bay, -and in construction a kind of nondescript. She was lying high and -dry upon the beach, but, with the assistance rendered, I had her -ready for sea in less than a week, well stored with a plenty of the -best provisions the place afforded. My crew consisted of seven men, -three of whom were Indians and natives of Alashka, making with Dr. -Langsdorff, my man Parker, and myself, ten in all. I am happy to say -that everything was done by the authorities to expedite my departure, -and they all seemed anxious to show me every kindness and attention -in their power. Having been furnished with the necessary papers -for my voyage, I took leave of his Excellency Baron von Resanoff, -Governor Baranoff, and my other friends, and put to sea on the 30th -of June, 1806, shaping my course for the island of Kodiak. - - -V. - - Dull Sailing.--I touch at Kodiak and Alashka.--Take in Passengers - at Oonalashka.--No Prospect of completing my Voyage this - Season.--Determine to winter at Petropowlowsk. - -Being at sea again, and on my own vessel, I had leisure for a more -deliberate view of the step I had taken, in attempting to seek -my own way to Ochotsk, in preference to waiting for the Juno. My -little craft was large and safe enough for my purpose; but I was now -convinced by her sluggish motion that it was very doubtful whether -I gained the port of my destination before it was too late in the -autumn to pursue my journey across Siberia. Our best sailing before -the wind was hardly five knots, and by the wind two and a half. We -had a voyage of 2,500 miles before us, and at a season of the year in -that water most subject to calms, light winds, and fogs. - -This tract of ocean, from longitude 130° west, along the entire coast -of Alashka and through the seas of Kamtchatka and Ochotsk, was at -that time the great place of resort of the right whale. Persecuted -in all its other haunts, it had sought refuge in this northern -region, where as yet a whaleship had never made its appearance. We -were frequently surrounded by them. Sometimes they would take a -position at the windward, and come down towards us, as if they were -determined to sink us; but when they had approached within eight or -ten rods, they would dip and go under, or make a circuit round us. -Most of them were much longer than our vessel, and it would have -taken but a slight blow from one to have smashed her into a thousand -pieces. - -On the 13th of July we saw the high land near the entrance of -Cook’s Inlet; and on the 17th arrived at the harbor of St. Paul, in -the island of Kodiak, after a passage of eighteen days, and which -might have been performed by an ordinary sailing craft, with the -same winds, in ten days. Here my letters of introduction made me -acquainted with Mr. Bander, the Company’s Superintendent. He received -us with great cordiality, and readily procured me a man to serve as -mate. He likewise furnished all the supplies we were in need of, and -saw that they were put on board; so that Dr. Langsdorff and myself -had little else to do than to look about and see the lions. The -village consisted of about forty houses, of various descriptions, -including a church, school-house, storehouse, and barracks. The -school-house was quite a respectable establishment, well filled with -pupils, under the especial care, as teacher, of the “Pope,”[30] or -ecclesiastic. He instructed them in reading, writing, arithmetic, and -keeping accounts. Many among them were excellent scholars in these -branches. The Doctor and myself made an excursion to an adjacent -island, where the Pope had a considerable tract of land under -cultivation, raising potatoes, cabbages, turnips, cucumbers, and -other vegetables. He also kept several milch cows, and appeared -to live in quite a farmer-like style. We concluded to pass the night -with him, and were hospitably entertained by his wife. - -[Illustration: ST. PAUL IN THE ISLAND OF KODIAK] - -Having taken on board some freight of skins and sea-elephant’s teeth -for Ochotsk, and a cask of brandy for the island of Oonalashka, on -the 23rd of July we took leave of our friends, Mr. Bander and the -Pope, and started again on our route. The wind was so strong from the -southeast that I found it impossible to weather the southern point -of the island, and thus to get to the westward of it. I concluded -to bear up, and pass through the Schelikoff’s Strait. This is a -channel formed by an archipelago of islands (of which Kodiak is the -principal), and the peninsula of Alashka. But by reason of light -and contrary winds, we did not get fairly into the strait until the -26th, and shortly after encountered a strong wind from the west, with -heavy squalls, which soon increased to such a severe gale, that we -were compelled to seek shelter on the Alashka shore. Here I found my -Indian sailors, who had proved good men from the beginning, to be -of the greatest service. I mentioned above that they were natives -of Alashka, and they were perfectly acquainted with the shore. They -pointed out to me a good harbor, for which I steered; and as we -rounded the point at its entrance, which was called Kudak, a baidarka -containing one man came alongside. He turned out to be the father -of one of my sailors, and they had not seen each other before for -two years. They did not appear, however, to be over-rejoiced at -this accidental meeting. They embraced each other after the Russian -custom, had a little chat together, and then went about their -business, without showing any disposition for further communication. - -In the course of the night the gale increased so much that I deemed -it prudent to let go our best bow-anchor; but with the return of -light the wind abated, and the weather became quite pleasant. Doctor -Langsdorff and myself took our baidarka, and went to the village, -which was situated on the opposite side of the harbor from where we -lay. It consisted of eight or ten habitations, which looked more like -mounds of earth than houses. They contained but one room, of an oval -form, and about fifteen feet across. The earth was dug out about -three feet in depth, and raised from the surface about three feet -more, and to enter we had to crawl on our hands and knees. The light -was admitted through windows of transparent skins, as a substitute -for glass. Their quarters were certainly comfortable for winter. The -floors were covered with spruce boughs, and mats were laid over them, -which made the apartment dry and warm. An aperture was left in the -top for ventilation. The outside was covered with a luxurious growth -of grass. The occupants were principally women, with a few old men; -the young men had all gone out hunting the sea-otter, in the Russian -service. Those at home seemed to be quite happy and contented, and -were all employed in making water-proof garments from the entrails -of sea-lions, for their husbands and sweethearts. We bought of them -a number of articles of their manufacture,--curious and very neat -work,--such as pocket-books, baskets, &c.,--and paid them in tobacco -and beads. - -On the 28th of July, the wind being moderate and favorable, we put to -sea again, and pursued our course to the westward along the coast of -Alashka. We made but slow progress on our voyage, and by the 9th of -August we had only reached the end of the peninsula. The same day we -passed through between the island of Oonemak and the easternmost of -the Fox Islands. On the 12th we arrived at the island of Oonalashka. -I had no cause to stop here beyond the desire of replenishing our -water-casks and stores. Owing to our tardy progress,--having as yet, -performed only one third of the distance from Kodiak to Ochotsk,--our -provisions were more than half consumed. I therefore felt myself -constrained to put in for a further supply. - -The Company’s Superintendent, Lariwanoff, a gentleman highly -esteemed by them, had died a short time previous to our arrival, -leaving a widow and an only child, a daughter about eighteen years -of age. I was received by his successor with much kindness, and -with an apparent disposition to facilitate my voyage. The harbor, -Illuluk, was spacious and well sheltered on all sides. There was a -good anchorage in four or five fathoms of water, on a sand and clay -bottom, at a convenient distance from the shore. While making some -necessary repairs on my little vessel, and getting supplies aboard, -Madam Lariwanoff learned that I was bound to Ochotsk. She immediately -came, and on her knees entreated me to have compassion on her lonely -and bereaved condition, and let her and her daughter take passage -with me. Irkutsk in Siberia was her native place, and thither she was -desirous of returning after a residence on this island ten years. Her -solicitations were so earnest that I had not the heart to refuse her, -and notwithstanding our contracted accommodations, entirely unfit for -a woman’s occupation, I resolved to take her under my protection. -I went aboard, and set about making the best possible arrangements -for her comfort, gave up my bunk, enlarged it sufficiently for the -mother and child together, and partitioned off the little cabin with -a canvas screen. I immediately commenced taking on board their goods -and chattels, with which, however, they were not overburdened; but -she had been preparing to leave the island for some time, and had -accumulated a goodly stock of provisions of various kinds,--several -barrels of eggs, put up in oil, smoked geese in abundance, dried -and pickled fish of an excellent quality, and other things equally -good. Thus our fare promised to be the best the island afforded. -In the mean time the Superintendent began to make objections, and -throw difficulties in the way of the old lady’s going with me. She -might make reports which would not redound to his credit. But I had -it in my power to silence all his objections, having on board the -cask of brandy, which it was at my option to leave with him, or take -to Ochotsk. On his application for it, I demurred until he withdrew -all his opposition to the widow’s leaving, and was willing to grant -anything on the island we wished. He was a dear lover of “the ardent.” - -Everything now went on smoothly, and in a few days we were ready for -sea; but adverse winds detained us, and I seized the opportunity to -take a stroll over the island with the Doctor and Superintendent. -It was totally bare of trees and shrubs, and with little or no game -but foxes. The whole value and importance of the Aleutian group -consist in the sea animals taken on their shores and bays, such as -fur-seals, walruses, sea-lions, and sea-otter; though of the latter -there were few. This is likewise the principal depot of the fisheries -of the smaller islands, and from here the furs are periodically -shipped to Ochotsk. In the course of our ramble we ascended some high -table-land with the hope of obtaining a view of the new island, which -we were informed had recently made its appearance in the Sea of -Kamtchatka, to the northwest of Oonalashka; but we were disappointed -by a thick mist’s setting in, which obscured all distant objects. -After wandering about in the numerous fox-paths, and with great -caution, to avoid the many traps set for those animals, we returned -to the village, somewhat hungry and leg-weary, and with but little -satisfaction to boast of, beyond traversing a region rendered classic -by the verse of Campbell, in the “Pleasures of Hope”:-- - - “Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles, - On Behring’s rocks, or Greenland’s naked isles; - Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow, - From wastes that slumber in eternal snow; - And waft, across the waves’ tumultuous roar, - The wolf’s long howl from Oonalashka’s shore.” - -But, in fact, I was the only Wolf ever known upon the island. -Nevertheless, I came near verifying the poet’s language, as I -barely escaped being caught in one of those fox-traps; in which -event I should have probably howled lustily, for they were terrible -instruments. - -August 16th, the wind and weather being favorable, Madame Lariwanoff, -her daughter, and man-servant, came on board, and we put to sea; -and I have every reason to believe with the fervent prayers of -every individual upon the island for God’s blessing upon their -patroness, and good speed to our little craft. The next day we saw -the new island, to which I was desirous to get near enough to send -a baidarka, particularly as the Doctor was anxious to get some -specimens of natural history; but a thick fog coming up, and having -a leading wind, we concluded to continue our voyage without loss of -time. On the 18th we lost sight of the islands, and, with a light -wind and rain, slowly pursued our course to the westward, across the -Sea of Kamtchatka, to the north of the Aleutian group; but such -was our tardy progress, that by the 28th we had only reached the -neighborhood of Atter, the most western island. Then for ten days in -succession we had calms, fogs, and light adverse winds. Our patience -was sorely tried, but the monotony of our life was alleviated by the -numerous and great variety of sea-birds, which were constantly flying -round us, and furnished endless sport with the musket. And here I -feel bound to record the marvellous skill, or good luck, of the -Doctor, as he killed a whole flock of four wild geese at one shot; -and, what was still better, we got out our baidarka, and took them -all aboard. - -Still creeping along with the same dull winds and disagreeable -weather, on the 3d of September we found ourselves in latitude 52° -north, and longitude 170° east, which placed us a considerable -distance southwest of Atter. We began to entertain fears lest we -should not reach the port of our destination in season; but on the -6th, for the first time since leaving Oonalashka, we took a strong -northeast gale, which carried us into the vicinity of the Kurile -Islands. Our hopes began to revive, and the prospect of reaching -Ochotsk to brighten; but again were we doomed to disappointment. A -severe blow from the southeast obliged us to heave to, with a heavy -sea running; and we drifted back over the course we had just sailed, -at the rate of two miles an hour. A considerable quantity of the -provisions for the sailors consisted of whale’s blubber, which was -hanging on our quarter, and was of course well soaked with oil. -This we found to be a great advantage, for it made a “slick” to the -windward for nearly a mile, and prevented the sea from breaking over -us. - -Strong westerly winds continued to baffle us until the 14th, when, -having no hope of reaching Ochotsk before the autumn was so far -spent that we should be obliged to make a winter’s journey across -Siberia, we concluded to alter our course, and sail for the harbor -of St. Peter and St. Paul, or Petropowlowsk, in Kamtchatka. We made -port on the 22d, and anchored abreast the village. We were kindly -and hospitably received by the Company’s Superintendent, as well -as by the officers of the military department, and especially by -Major Antony Ivanah and lady, who showed me many civilities. Madam -Lariwanoff and daughter were taken in charge by the Superintendent, -and provided with comfortable quarters. The Doctor and myself at once -took temporary lodgings on the shore, until we could make permanent -arrangements for the winter. Having discharged all the cargo, and -dismantled our little craft, we hauled her up on the beach at the -first spring tide. Provisions and accommodations were provided at the -settlement for the crew as well as ourselves; and in fact the people -seemed desirous to do everything in their power to render our stay -amongst them as comfortable and agreeable as the nature of the place -would admit. - - -VI. - - Settled for another Winter.--Arrival of old Friends.--Dogs and - Sledging.--A Russian Christening. - -Detained for another winter, we endeavored at once to make the -acquaintance of the inhabitants of the village, and to become -familiar with the country in its vicinity. We were introduced to -all the people of note, and kindly entertained by them. We made -pedestrian excursions for several miles in every direction, and -visited all the common places of resort. The scenery was picturesque, -and the view from the elevations was beautiful and grand. The Awatska -Bay, or outer harbor, as it is called, is completely land-locked, and -at the same time so extensive, that a thousand ships might ride at -anchor in it with safety. The distant mountains, and particularly the -high peak Awatska, add greatly to the landscape. The latter presents -the imposing spectacle of a volcano in full blast, always overhung -with a cloud of smoke, and constantly belching fire and lava. - -We had only one source of annoyance at the village during the early -part of our stay, and we soon became well used to that. I refer to -the barking of the numerous dogs, though it can scarcely be called -barking, for they howl like a wolf. At sunset regularly they would -begin their serenade at one end of the settlement,--which, by the -way, extended all round the harbor,--and in the course of half an -hour all the voices would join in the chorus, and keep it up all -night long. With this single temporary drawback, we passed our time -very pleasantly until the first of November. By then we had visited -on foot all the places in the more immediate neighborhood, and we -concluded to make a short boat excursion to a small river named -Paratunka, to see some warm springs situated several miles from -its mouth. This spring issues from the ground in a boiling state, -and spreads out over a basin excavated for its reception. It forms -an excellent bathing-place, being of suitable depth, with a sandy -bottom, and the bather can choose any degree of warmth he pleases. -The water is impregnated with sulphur and other minerals. We found -here some Russian invalids who had come to enjoy the use of the -spring. All the rivers in the neighborhood abounded in salmon, -though it was so late in the season; and we protracted our stay for -a day or two, hunting and fishing, and boiling our game in the hot -water of the spring. - -[Illustration: PETROPOWLOWSK IN KAMTCHATKA] - -On our return to the village we were surprised to find one of our -old Norfolk Sound friends, Lieutenant Davidoff, who had arrived at -the harbor in command of the little new vessel built at Sitcha, and -called the Awos. He had left the Sound in August, accompanied by the -Juno, under the command of Lieutenant Schwostoff, and having Baron -von Resanoff on board to be carried to Ochotsk. He had parted with -them off the Kurile Islands. About the middle of November Lieutenant -Schwostoff made his appearance with the Juno. After landing his -Excellency about Ochotsk, he received orders to proceed to one of -the southernmost of the Kurile Islands, and break up a Japanese -settlement reported to have been established there. He found at the -place four Japanese, with a large stock of goods for trade with -the islanders, consisting of rice, tobacco, fish-nets, lacquered -ware, salt, cotton, silk, and many other articles; all of which he -seized without opposition, and brought Japanese, goods, and all to -Kamtchatka. Thus we met our old friends in a very unexpected manner. -As we were doomed to pass another winter in this region, their -company was very pleasant, and to have the Juno in sight again was -especially agreeable to me. - -I now took lodgings in a shanty owned and occupied by a very clever -old man, named Andra, and his wife and little boy. I called him in -a familiar way Starruk, that is old man, and his wife Starruke, -old woman. He was quite thrifty for the place, and was one of the -few in the village who owned and kept a cow. This was a fortunate -circumstance, for good milk was a rarity in that section. His shanty -was warm and comfortable, and was divided into three apartments. In -one corner of the largest they made a bunk for me, and curtained it -round. My man Parker slept in the same room on a movable bed. In -the next room, which was the cooking-room, there was a large brick -oven, or furnace, and on the top of this slept Starruk, his wife, -and little boy. The third apartment was devoted to the cow and her -fodder. At this place I took my meals at night and morning, but dined -by general invitation at the Company’s table, at the house of the -Superintendent. Comfortably settled in my new quarters, I prepared -for a long winter’s siege. - -It was necessary to be provided with a set of good dogs and a sledge. -With the assistance of Starruk I was soon possessed of five of the -best animals of the kind, and had them tied up near the house, that -they might get accustomed to me, and be ready for use. In the spring -of the year the dogs are turned loose, and left to provide for -themselves, in the best way they can. Hence they are great thieves -until the herring season comes, when they have an abundant supply of -food, which they go into the water and catch for themselves, until -they become very fat, and unfit for use.[31] At that season, too, -great quantities of the herring are caught by the owners of the dogs, -and split and dried in the sun, to feed them in the winter, when they -give them nothing else. - -I also purchased a first-rate sledge, at once light and handsome, fur -garments, Kamtchatka boots, bear-skin, and everything needed to make -my equipage complete; and, now fully prepared, I waited impatiently -for the snow. There had been already several squalls, but about the -last of November the ground was well covered and the winter set in. -My dogs were in good travelling condition, and I now made my first -essay, with three of them to begin with. The style in which they -tumbled me about in the snow was “a caution,” as Paddy says, and -furnished great amusement to the villagers. But I persevered, with -a determination to make myself master of the business, and at the -end of a week was quite an adroit performer. The sledges were so -constructed, that it required nearly as much skill and practice to -keep in equilibrium as in skating; but when well understood, they -afforded a most splendid recreation and agreeable exercise. Being -soon able to harness and manage my five dogs with dexterity, we used -frequently to make a party, consisting of Langsdorff, Schwostoff, -Davidoff, and Miasnikoff, and go out on excursions to the neighboring -villages, from ten to twenty miles distant. When the weather was -unfavorable, we had balls and parties; and in this way the weeks and -months of the long winter passed off quite cheerfully. - -About the 1st of January, 1807, the Governor-General, Koscheleff, -who resides at Nischney, which is the capital of Kamtchatka, made -his annual visit of inspection to all the military posts on the -peninsula. His entrance into Petropowlowsk with a long handsome -sledge, a Kamtchadale on each side, as conductors, and a string of -twenty dogs, was quite a new and pleasing sight to me. During his -stay of five days, we had royal feastings and visitings; and when -he left, half the village accompanied him to the distance of ten or -fifteen miles, myself among the number. We made a string nearly a -mile long. - -The sledging in Kamtchatka is not without some adverse casualties to -the best of managers. One occurred to me which I will narrate. I was -coming from Melka, an interior village, with a load of frozen salmon, -in company with my landlord, Starruk, and, my dogs being better than -his, I got several miles ahead of him. The snow was deep, but the -top was crusted, and the underbrush all covered. The surface was -perfectly smooth, but interrupted by numerous large trees; and to -avoid them our track was serpentine. At last we came to an inclined -plane of a mile or so in length, and, my sledge being heavily laden, -it became necessary for me to be constantly on my guard, and keep a -sharp lookout. Accordingly I took the usual preliminary precaution in -such cases, of sitting sideways, with the left hand hold of the fore -part, left foot on the runner, and my right leg extended; my foot, -slipping over the snow, operated as a sort of an outrigger. The dogs -at the same time, fearful lest the sledge should run on to them, went -down the declivity like lightning. The trees seemed to grow thicker -and thicker, and to avoid them it soon became hard up and hard down -with me. At last, coming to a sharp curve to the right, the sledge, -shearing to the other side, struck with such force as to scatter my -whole establishment, and I received such a blow on the head that it -stunned me and laid me out on the snow unconscious. When I came to -a little, and looked up, I saw my sledge was partly a wreck, four -of my dogs had broken from their harness and gone on, while one, -left fast in his gear, was sitting on his haunches, and watching me -with wonder, as much as to say, “How came you here?” It was not long -before Starruk came up. He asked me what was the matter. I replied -that some one in passing had run foul of me. “No,” said he, “I -guess you run foul of that tree”; which, on collecting my scattered -thoughts I found to be the fact. But as there were no bones broken, -I brightened up, and, with the old man’s assistance, caught my dogs -again, repaired damages and pursued my journey, not a little worse -for my tumble. - -[Illustration: SLEDGE AND EQUIPMENTS IN KAMTCHATKA] - -I will mention another circumstance which occurred to me,--not that -there was anything extraordinary in it, but merely to show the -sagacity of dogs, and the convenience of travelling with them. I -was coming from a village about ten miles distant. It was dusk when -I started, and night soon closed in with Egyptian darkness and an -arctic snow-storm. I could not see even my dogs. The new snow soon -covered and obliterated the old track. It was difficult to tell -whether I was going ahead or standing still, without putting my foot -through the new-fallen snow down to the old crust. In this way I -went on for an hour or so, the dogs making very slow progress, and -very hard work of it. Not being able to see anything, I somehow or -other became persuaded that the dogs had inclined to the left of the -beaten track, and consequently I kept urging them to the right. Thus -I went on for some time, until I found myself in a forest of large -trees, and had much difficulty in keeping clear of them. At last I -became decidedly bewildered, but convinced that I had lost my way. -Not knowing whither I was going, and fearing that I might wander, the -Lord knew where, during the long night, I concluded to halt, and make -my dogs fast to a tree. I then sat awhile on my sledge, and listened, -to see if I could hear anybody, and finally prepared my bear-skin and -fur garments for a night’s bivouac. I had not lain more than an hour -before I heard the howling of dogs; my own immediately answered them. -I found they were approaching, and when I judged them to be within -hailing distance, I called out. A man called out in return, and soon -drove up. It was a Kamtchadale coming from Petropowlowsk. It appeared -that I had urged the dogs a considerable distance from the proper -track, which, with the new-comer’s assistance, I regained. He told me -not to attempt to guide the dogs, but to let them pick their own way. -I accordingly sat on my sledge for an hour or so, scarcely realizing -that I was moving, till at last I turned my eyes up, and found myself -right under the light of my own window. - -These little mishaps occurred while I was yet a novice in the art -of sledging; but I soon became acquainted with the habits and -dispositions of my dogs, and they became accustomed to me, so that I -travelled fearlessly, alone or in company, and made excursions to all -the villages in the southern part of the peninsula within a hundred -miles of Petropowlowsk. While I was amusing myself in the southern, -the Doctor was traversing the northern part of Kamtchatka all by -himself, and collecting specimens of natural history. - -I was always an admirer of the rigid adherence of the Russians to -their religious forms and ceremonies. I never saw a Russian, high -or low, who did not, both before and after eating, ask a blessing, -and give thanks to God for his bounty, apparently with a sincere -and thankful heart. Yet there were some things very absurd in their -ceremonies. For instance, I was invited to the christening of a -child at the house of the Superintendent, and requested to stand -as godfather with Dr. Langsdorff, as it was necessary, I was told, -to have two godfathers and two godmothers.[32] At the appointed -time we repaired to the house, where we found the pope and numerous -guests already assembled. The pope had brought with him a small box, -resembling a tea-caddy, containing, as was said, consecrated oil. A -large tub full of water was placed in the centre of the room, and -the pope’s apparatus near at hand. He then commenced the operation -with prayers, after which, he took the child in his arms and plunged -it under the water. Then, with a small brush and some oil from the -box, he crossed the child all over its body and legs, and afterwards -marched round the tub, and we, the godfathers and godmothers, -followed, in Indian file, three times around. The child was then -given to one of the godfathers, crossed again, and round the tub we -went three times more. And so it continued until we all had taken -our turns, and made fifteen circuits of the tub. Now I thought this, -or the greater part of it, a nonsensical ceremony, and a piece of -rigmarole; but it was not my part to find fault or object to it, and -I willingly conformed to the custom. - -When it was over, the tub was taken away, and a table put in its -place, madam, the mother of the child, brought on the goodies, -pies of flesh and pies of fish, cakes of various kinds, preserved -berries, and many other things; but what astounded me most was that -a bottle of real ardent spirits found its way to the table on this -extra occasion, an article which had disappeared from among our -stores several months previous. The pope paid his respects to it with -peculiar unction, and a glowing countenance, and the rest of us were -not slow in following suit. This was one of the friendly gatherings -to which I made it a point never to refuse an invitation; and I found -the Russians very fond of celebrating birthdays, christenings, and as -many holidays as they could make an excuse for. - - -VII. - - Voyage to Ochotsk.--Journey from Ochotsk to Yakutsk. - -About the last of March the snow began to disappear rapidly, and by -the middle of April the ground was so bare that our sledging parties -were abandoned. The ice had left the bay, and all hands were at work, -under the directions of Lieut. Schwostoff and Davidoff, sawing and -breaking up the ice in the inner harbor, in order to extricate the -Juno and Awos, which had been preparing to sail for some time. By -the 25th the channel was cleared, and the two vessels put to sea, -with the four Japanese who had passed the winter with us. Their -destination was the northern Japanese Islands, where they intended to -land their passengers, and make some further attempts to establish an -intercourse with the people. - -By this movement I was prompted to get my little craft afloat and -prepare for the remainder of my voyage. I was admonished, by those -acquainted with the breaking up of the ice in the rivers at the head -of the Ochotsk Sea, not to be in a hurry; but my anxiety to be off -rendered me deaf to all remonstrances; and on the 22d of May I was -ready. At this point I was beset by a number of persons, both male -and female, for a passage to Ochotsk. I concluded to take five in -addition to Madam Lariwanoff and daughter, viz. one elderly widow -woman, one old woman and her daughter, one very respectable young -man in the Company’s service, and one other gentleman. Our party -now numbered eighteen. We were tolerably well equipped, and had -an abundant supply of such provisions as the place afforded. When -our arrangements were all completed, Doctor Langsdorff and myself -devoted a day to taking leave of the many friends who had entertained -us during the winter; and I particularly of my old landlord and -landlady, Starruk and Starruke. To the former I paid what he thought -a very liberal compensation for the apartment I had occupied at his -house. I also made him a present of my sledge, its equipage, and my -dogs, with the exception of one, which I took with me. To Starruke -I gave my bedding, curtains, and furniture. I then bade good-bye -to these warm-hearted people, and left them with their warmest -prayers for a prosperous voyage. Our passengers now came on board, -and, after making the best accommodations for them our contracted -quarters would admit, on the 26th, with fair weather, we bade adieu -to Petropowlowsk, and weighed anchor. - -Favorable winds continued just long enough to give us a good offing, -when they became light and adverse, with calms, and so continued for -several days. On the 30th, having just taken a brisk breeze, which -was driving us along, for a wonder, at nearly five knots, we ran -into a large whale which was lying near the surface. We somehow slid -up his back so as to raise our little vessel two or three feet and -throw her over on her side four or five streaks. It was like striking -a rock, and brought us to a complete standstill. The monster soon -showed himself, gave a spout, “kicked” his flukes and went down. He -did not appear to be hurt, nor were we hurt, but most confoundedly -frightened. I sounded the pump immediately, and found that all was -safe as to leakage, and we continued on our course quite satisfied -with the result. - -June 3d, we passed through between the second and third Kurile -Islands from the southern part of Kamtchatka, and entered the Sea of -Ochotsk. Here again we were annoyed by the calms, which continued -with but little variance until the 14th, when we had reached latitude -58°. We now began to meet ice, at first so scattered that we thought -it possible to push through it; but after working in amongst it for -a few hours, it became so compact as to be impassable, and extended -east, west, and north as far as the eye could reach, even from the -masthead a solid mass. Finding it impossible to proceed any farther, -and as the ice was closing rapidly around us, I deemed it advisable -to avail myself of that better part of valor, discretion, and pole -out as we had poled in; for I had soon discovered that our little -craft was too slight to deal freely with heavy ice. Having gained -the open water, I steered to the eastward all day without finding -any passage-way. The wind proving unfavorable for sailing in that -direction, we turned and went westward. Thus we continued for ten -days, making various attempts to get clear of the ice, and at last -succeeded. On the 26th, at meridian, we found our latitude 59°20′, -and the land was in sight. On the 27th, we anchored off the mouth of -the river Ochota. At 2 P. M., the tide turned, and we crossed the -bar, entered the harbor of Ochotsk, and made fast to the Company’s -wharf. Thus terminated a long and tedious passage of thirty-three -days. - -We were told here that the ice had only left the rivers and bays -four or five days. We were likewise informed, to our great grief, -that his Excellency Baron von Resanoff had died at Krasnojarsk in -Siberia, on his route to St. Petersburg. He had fallen from his -horse on the road from Ochotsk to Yakutsk, which was supposed to be -the cause of his death. The passport and letters I had previously -received from his Excellency at once made me acquainted with the -Company’s Superintendent, Mr. Petroff; likewise with the commandant -of the port, Captain Bucharin. By both these gentlemen I was treated -with the utmost kindness and civility; and, knowing my desire to be -on my way to St. Petersburg, they were both anxious to afford me -every facility in their power. A taboo was immediately put upon a -sufficient number of the first horses that arrived from Yakutsk. With -the greatest possible despatch, it was necessary to wait a few days, -and in the mean time I was taken round the place to see the lions. -They did not amount to much. The town was situated on a sand spit, -washed by the sea on one side and the river Ochota on the other. The -river Kuchtin unites with the Ochota near the harbor’s mouth, which, -at the best, is an indifferent one, and not accessible to vessels -drawing more than eight feet of water. The town is joined to the -mainland by a narrow neck of marshy ground, which is often inundated. -In fact, it appeared to me that any extra rise of the river or sea -would swamp the whole place. Some ship-building was going on here, -and many convicts were employed in the government service. - -For my convenience, the privilege was accorded to me by the Company -of selecting a Russian subject to accompany me on my road, as a -kind of an assistant. A young man by the name of Kutsnetsoff, -or Smith, was pointed out as one desirous of going with me, but -the Superintendent did not feel authorized to release him from -the service, unless I should think proper to select him, and I -accordingly did so. He had been ten years at the settlements on the -Aleutian Islands, and was anxious to return to Irkutsk, his native -place. He had a brother in Moscow, a merchant in high standing, who -was at the head of the Company’s establishment there. - -On the morning of July 3d, my horses, eleven in number, were brought -out. They did not look very promising, as they had been overworked on -the route hither. This was rather discouraging, for it was important -that they should be in a good condition for a journey of 500 miles, -through a country with no signs of a settlement except a few log -shanties at great distances asunder, and no road but a serpentine -footpath; moreover, we had a fair amount of luggage, and for comfort -and convenience we were obliged to carry a tent, cooking-utensils, -and bear-skins, &c. for bedding. Bad as they were, these horses were -better than none, and I must make the best of them. - -Having completed my preparations, I took leave of my highly esteemed -friend, Dr. Langsdorff, who intended to remain a week or so for the -promotion of his favorite object; also of Madam Lariwanoff and her -daughter, my other passengers, and sailors,--particularly of the -three Alashka Indians, who had proved themselves excellent men, -and rendered me good service.[33] They fell upon their knees and -entreated me to take them with me. As this was impracticable, I -could only make them a gratuity in rubles, and recommend them to the -kindness of Mr. Petroff, in whose employ and charge they were. Having -finished our leave-takings, we mounted our horses. There were five of -us,--myself and two aids, Parker and Kutsnetsoff, and two Yakutas, -the owners of the horses, and acting as guides. Three of the other -six horses carried our luggage, and the remaining three were kept in -reserve for a change on the road. Dr. Langsdorff, the Superintendent, -Captain Bucharin, and other friends, accompanied us to the outskirts -of the town to take another and a final farewell, and we then put -spurs to our horses, and struck into the woods. We went on at quite a -spirited pace until five o’clock, when we arrived at a small clearing -called Medwescha Golowa, or Bear’s Head, where there were a few huts. -Here we dismounted to lunch, and rest our horses for half an hour; -and then resumed our journey. At seven in the evening we pitched -our tent, and camped for the night, in a good place for our horses -to graze. As we carried no provender, this was a matter of great -importance throughout our whole journey. We turned our beasts loose, -and the Yakutschians watched them by turns through the night. The -distance we travelled this day since eleven o’clock was 45 versts.[34] - -Ochotsk is situated in latitude 59°30′, and Yakutsk in about 63°. -The direction of our course was west-northwest and the distance in -a bee-line 500 miles; but by reason of the tortuous nature of the -route we were obliged to pursue, the distance was much increased. In -such an extent of wild country there were doubtless many objects that -would have attracted the attention of the man of science; but being -myself neither naturalist, botanist, nor geologist, I had no call to -search to the right or to the left for specimens. My business was -to push on as fast as my horses could carry me, having an especial -regard for my bills of exchange. I paid but little attention to the -names of the numerous small rivers and mountains which we crossed, -merely noticing some of the principal. To me the country wore even a -greater degree of sameness than other unsettled regions. - -July 4th. We collected our horses and struck our tent at 7 A. M., -mounted, and continued our journey. Several large caravans of -horses passed us in the forenoon, laden with flour and provisions -for Ochotsk. In the afternoon, we crossed a ridge of tolerably high -mountains, and then came upon swampy ground. At five o’clock we -reached a small river; but it was so deep we were obliged to ferry -our luggage over in a boat, and swim our horses. We went on until -eight in the evening, when we encamped. The distance travelled this -day was 47 versts. - -July 5th. We had a thick fog and rain through the night. It cleared -up in the morning, and we mounted at seven, and continued our journey -through valleys and over mountains, with extremely bad travelling, -the whole day. The weather growing hot, we were sorely annoyed by the -mosquitos, and were obliged to wear leather gloves and a kind of hood -in the shape of a sun-bonnet, with a gauze veil to protect the face. -Our white horses became perfectly pink with the blood drawn from them -by these insects. We pitched our tents at six in the evening. The -distance travelled this day was 55 versts. - -July 6th. Started at seven, and had pleasant, but rather warm -weather. In the course of the day we forded several small rivers -without unpacking our horses, and passed four caravans with stores -for Ochotsk. At five in the afternoon we came to a small group of -shanties where was kept a magazine of provisions and a stud of horses -for government emergencies. This place was 190 versts from Ochotsk. -Taking tea here, we proceeded until seven o’clock, and then encamped -in a tolerably good grazing-place. The distance travelled this day -was 55 versts. - -July 7th. Started this morning at six. The travelling was extremely -bad, and the ground swampy; the horses sank in the mire up to their -saddle-girths. By noon we came to better going. Passed to-day, beside -caravans, several droves of cattle on the way to Ochotsk. Distance, -60 versts. - -July 8th. Fine weather, but the travelling very poor again. At ten -in the morning arrived at the banks of the river Allacjun, one of -the largest tributaries of the Aldan. We ferried our baggage across, -and swam our horses. At three in the afternoon we halted and turned -our beasts out to graze. Owing to the uneven and miry road they had -passed over, they were much fatigued and galled. Distance this day, -40 versts. - -July 9th. Started at six in the morning. Passed several caravans, -and at five in the afternoon met the government post for Ochotsk. -At nine, pitched our tent on the bank of a small tributary of the -Allacjun. Distance this day, 65 versts. - -July 10th. Rained all the fore part of the day. Our route was through -a gorge between high ridges of mountains. Distance travelled, 50 -versts. - -July 11th. The weather was pleasant and warm, the country rugged and -mountainous. At four in the afternoon we came to the foot of a high -and steep mountain, and halted to make preparations for the ascent. -Our horses had already become so weak and travel-worn, that it was -doubtful whether they would succeed in crossing it. My Yakutschian -guides lifted their tails to ascertain their strength. On those that -had limber tails the weight of the baggage was reduced, and increased -on those that had stiff tails. I noticed them also pulling hair from -the manes, and tying it to the branches of trees; whether this was -done to invoke the good, or propitiate the evil spirits, I could -not make out. After they had adjusted things to suit them, we took -off our coats, and started, leading our beasts. The ground was so -very springy that it was with great difficulty that we could pick -our way. Two of the baggage horses mired before we reached the top, -and we were obliged to unload in order to extricate them. We finally -gained the summit,--which after all was not so very high,--and, -having rested a little, descended. Continuing our course through a -narrow valley, at 6 P. M. we crossed the river Allakum, and stopped -at a small cluster of shanties on its left bank. There was a ferry -for bipeds, but such of the poor horses as were able were obliged -to swim. The stream was so rapid, that mine had a hard tug to get -across. Distance this day, 50 versts. - -It was necessary to make a halt soon for a day or two to recruit, -and this was a favorable place. The government had a station and -postilion here. Four of my horses were completely broken down, and I -left them, and hired six fresh ones. We also replenished our stock of -provisions. - -July 14th. Mounted at 5 A. M., and passed over a very high mountain, -and descended into a narrow, serpentine valley, in which we travelled -the better part of the day. We passed several caravans and droves of -beef cattle. Distance, 55 versts. - -July 15th. Our route this day over boggy ground again, and the -travelling was therefore as poor as ever. Our horses’ backs were very -sore, and they were all nearly exhausted. We pitched our tent early -in the afternoon at a good grazing-place, to give them a little rest. -Distance, 40 versts. - -July 16th. The weather this day was warm and pleasant, and road not -so mountainous as it had been. At 5 P. M., one of our horses gave -out, and we left him. Continuing on until seven, we pitched our tent -on the banks of the White River. Distance, 50 versts. - -July 17th. At 6 A. M. we mustered together our horses, and found that -four were missing. We spent half the day in a fruitless search for -them, and then concluded that they were either killed or frightened -away by the bears, which are very plentiful in this region. We -pursued our journey, much of the way through mud and water up to the -saddle-girths. Distance, 30 versts. - -July 18th. Struck our tent at 7 A. M., and at nine crossed the White -River. All the early part of the day, until within twenty versts of -the Aldan, we found the road very good. Here we saw before us an -extensive morass, to avoid which it would be necessary to go the -distance of thirty versts. This morass was about a quarter of a mile -in breadth, and partially covered with water, interspersed with -little grass knolls, which were soft and unsteady. Disagreeable as -the prospect was, we concluded to go straight across. We accordingly -fastened on the baggage tighter, stripped off all our clothes but -shirt and pants, and secured them to the saddles, and started, -leading our horses, each one picking out the way for himself. -In about half an hour we succeeded in flouncing through without -accident; but it was a tiresome job, and we got well plastered with -mud. Putting ourselves and luggage in order, we proceeded until 10 P. -M., when we reached the government station on the right bank of the -Aldan, having left two of our horses on the road exhausted. - -We had now reached the principal station on the route, which was -about two thirds the distance to Yakutsk; and I determined to halt -for a day or two to recruit, after passing fifteen in the saddle. At -first I was quite pleased with the idea of this land excursion, but -I found in a very little while that it was no joke. I was sore all -over, from head to foot. The clumsy saddles we rode were anything but -convenient. The pommels were of wood and raised about six inches, and -in the hollow between sat the rider. There was just space enough for -an ordinary-sized man; and being myself light and spare of person, -there was plenty of room for me to shake in my seat. I soon hit upon -an expedient, however, to alleviate my suffering. I bolstered up with -pillows, so that by the fourth day my pains and aches subsided, and -afterward I was tolerably comfortable. Still the incessant torments -of the mosquitos and miry roads were hard to bear. I soon grew sick -of this horse-marine navigation, and came to the conclusion that the -spray of the sea was far preferable to a mud bath. We made up as well -as we could for the annoyance of bad roads, bogs, and small rivers, -by taking reasonable care of the inner man. I mentioned before, that -we took our cooking apparatus and provisions with us. We had bread -and sugar, and the tea-kettle was in constant requisition morning -and evening. Sometimes at the shanties on the route we obtained a -little milk. At noon we generally had a substantial lunch of Bologna -sausage or corned meat, and a glass of schnapps. - -Having rested and refreshed ourselves sufficiently, I made an -arrangement with the postilion of the station to take us through the -remainder of the distance, as from here to the banks of the Lena -there were relays of horses at points twenty-five or thirty versts -asunder. - -July 21st. Being all ready for a move, our horses were gathered -together at the river’s side. There was only one small boat belonging -to the place, in which we made out to ferry ourselves and baggage -over; but the poor horses were obliged to swim. Such was their -dislike to the water, that we were detained half a day trying to -force them in. At last we succeeded, by taking two of them by the -halter, one on each side of the boat, and letting the others, five -in number, follow on their own hook. The current was so rapid that -they swam the distance of two versts, when the width of the stream -at this point was only one, before they reached the opposite shore. -They crawled up on the bank quite exhausted, and we were obliged to -remain awhile for them to recover. At 2 P. M. we mounted and pursued -our journey. At eight in the evening we pitched our tent at the first -post-station after leaving the Aldan. The distance travelled was 35 -versts. - -July 22d. Changed horses and started at 6 A. M. The travelling was -much improved, and at 5 P. M. we came to the second stand, on the -bank of the Anger, after a ride of 50 versts. We passed over this -river in the usual manner, and went on 25 versts more to the third -station, where we paused for the night, quite satisfied with our -day’s progress. - -July 23d. At 9 A. M. started with fresh horses and continued on -our route. The travelling was still more improved, and the country -generally had a more agreeable appearance. The high mountains had -disappeared, and we rode over level prairies, beautifully diversified -with grasses and a great variety and profusion of flowers. Among the -latter the red pink predominated, the odor of which scented the whole -atmosphere, and made the journey delightful. At 1 P. M. we changed -our horses at the fourth station, and at six arrived at the fifth, -where we passed the night. Distance, 60 versts. - -July 24th. We had pleasant weather, and at 7 A. M. started on our -route. At 8 P. M. we arrived at the seventh station, where we -encamped for the night, and paid the postilion 35 rubles for the use -of his horses, this being the last station to which he had authority -to take us. Distance, 60 versts. - -July 25th. At 7 A. M. we resumed our journey under the charge of -another postilion. Our horses, since leaving the Aldan, had generally -been very good; but this morning I found myself on a splendid animal, -of a cream color, singularly and beautifully marked. A dark brown -stripe about a hand’s breadth ran from the crupper to the withers, -and then spread over the shoulders in a broad patch; his mane and -tail reached nearly to the ground. I could see that he was well -groomed and cared for, but I was rather shy about mounting him at -first. I was assured, however, that he was well broken and gentle, -and I found him so. He was certainly the most perfect creature of the -kind I ever rode or set eyes on. The plains over which we travelled -this day were dotted over with innumerable cattle and horses -grazing. At 9 P. M. we arrived at the tenth station and pitched our -tent. Distance, 75 versts. - -July 26th. At 7 A. M. we continued on our route, and at 4 P. M. -reached the right bank of the river Lena, which I crossed, and was -kindly received and entertained at the Company’s establishment at -Yakutsk. This town, the capital of the province of the same name, -covers a large space of ground. The houses were mostly of logs, but -some were spacious and tolerably handsome, and surrounded with large -gardens. The churches and other public buildings, with their cupolas, -made quite a conspicuous and pleasing appearance as we approached -the place, but the streets were irregular, unpaved, and muddy. The -latitude of the town is 62°30′ N. - -The breadth of the Lena at Yakutsk is about two miles. This -magnificent river takes its rise in the southern part of Siberia, in -lat. 52°. Its general course is northeast, and it empties into the -Arctic Ocean in lat. 75°. With its tributaries it forms the principal -channel for the discharge of the great water-sheds of the eastern -part of the empire, and the thoroughfare of communication with the -provinces of Ochotsk, Kamtchatka and the Aleutian Islands. Down this -stream vessels carried the various articles needed in those distant -regions, such as bread-stuffs, liquors, and manufactures, and brought -up in return the furs and other commodities which found a ready -market in China and Russia. - - -VIII. - - Yakutsk.--Different Modes of Travelling.--Voyage up the Lena.--I - arrive at Irkutsk. - -I determined to remain at Yakutsk a few days, to look around and -ascertain the best mode of proceeding up the river to Irkutsk. The -distance in a straight line was about 1500 miles, but by following -the stream it would be much increased. There were post-stations -the whole way, mostly on the left bank, and at intervals of twenty -or thirty versts. At these horses were kept by the government, and -one mode of making the proposed journey was in a small open boat, -which was towed by them after the manner of a canal-boat, except -that passengers changed boats at every station. Another mode, and -that which I decided to adopt, was to hire a larger craft, with mast -and sails, and perform the whole distance without changing; but I -was to have the privilege of receiving assistance from the horses -whenever necessary, and for this purpose I obtained an order from the -government called a _deroshner_ or _poderoshner_. - -As soon as I had come to this conclusion, I commenced a search for -a suitable boat, and at the same time I took the opportunity to -look round the town. Accompanied by one of the gentlemen of the -establishment, who devoted himself to my service, I visited all -the public places, including the monastery, churches, and forts. I -also called on several families, and was introduced as an American -captain. Some of them were very inquisitive, and anxious to know -where America was. It was a mystery to them how I got there, if I did -not come by the way of St. Petersburg and Moscow. I explained as well -as I could without an interpreter, but after all they appeared to be -rather sceptical. The Commandant, a cheerful and clever old man, was -very kind and obliging, and we exchanged several visits. He asked for -information with regard to our government and constitution, which I -explained as well as I could; and as he understood no English and I -very little Russ, it is quite possible I was taken for a very knowing -chap. When I made a call at any one’s house, no matter what time of -day it was, if I stayed long enough for the tea-kettle to boil[35] -(which, by the way, was almost always kept boiling), I was asked to -take a cup of tea, and it was considered almost an insult to refuse. -The second cup was usually laced with a little ardent spirits. This -tea-drinking I found to be the universal custom in Siberia. - -The sables collected in the vicinity of Yakutsk are the finest and -most beautiful in the world, and command a much higher price than -those from Kamtchatka. As I had already collected a few skins as -specimens, in my travels, I requested the Superintendent of the -Company’s establishment to supply me with a pair of the very best -this district produced, and he kindly complied. They were certainly -of great beauty, very dark-colored and shiny, with very long and -thick-set fur. - -I found a boat in a few days, belonging to a couple of itinerant -merchants, who had come down in her from the head-waters of the -river, which I thought would answer my purpose. It was quite a nice -boat, of about twenty feet in length; a little aft the centre there -was a small round-house, with a sleeping-berth on each side. It had a -keel, but was of light draft. The mast carried one large square sail; -and we could row with two oars forward and two aft. I chartered the -boat for the passage, and was to deliver it up to the merchants, -or their agent, when we had arrived at head-waters. One man who -came down in it was to return with me, on condition he worked his -passage; and I found that the owners themselves desired to accompany -us to their home. I had no serious objection to this, provided they -supplied their own provisions; and, in fact, I thought it might be -rather an advantage, as they were acquainted with the river. I gave -them to understand at the outset, however, that the cabin must be at -my exclusive disposal, and to this they readily agreed. I accordingly -sent on board my goods and chattels, cooking utensils, and -provisions. The Commandant, at my request, very obligingly appointed -a Cossack to go with me, and a smart, energetic little fellow he was. - -Having made everything ready, I took leave of my friends in Yakutsk, -and assumed the command of my little craft, on the morning of the -30th of July, and thus commenced what was to me an entirely new phase -of navigation. The wind being adverse, I had the horses hitched on, -and away we went. My crew consisted of my man Parker, Kutsnetsoff, -the Cossack, the man who worked his passage, and together with the -two merchants and myself made seven of us in all. My weapons of -defence (of which, by the way, there did not seem to be much need) -consisted of a pair of double-barrelled pistols with spring bayonets, -and a large broadsword, with a conspicuous gilt hilt finished off -with an eagle’s head. These implements looked dreadfully formidable -and warlike, and I deposited them in a convenient place in my cabin. -I assigned to Parker, Kutsnetsoff, and the Cossack the berth which -I did not use, and they were to turn in and out by watches. The two -merchants and the other man were to select the best places to sleep -they could find elsewhere. With matters arranged in this way, we went -on in good style, the horses going most of the time at a gentle trot. -In the course of the day we passed two post-stations. - -On the morning of the second day, having accomplished about 150 -versts of my journey, I stopped at a post-station, where the official -appeared to be a much more wide-awake man than any we had passed. -I sent my _deroshner_ to be written on, and my Cossack ordered the -horses to be attached. This order not being obeyed at once, I saw -there was some difficulty, and sent Kutsnetsoff to see what was the -matter. On returning, he asked me to go into the office myself. So, -hauling up the collar of my shirt, and, assuming such an air of -importance as I thought the case might require, I went and demanded -the cause of my detention. “The horses are all ready for you, Sir,” -said the postilion, “but those two merchants cannot go in that -boat. The government don’t keep horses to accommodate travelling -traders. If they want horses, they must pay for them.” There was no -alternative, but that the fellows should leave the boat; and, to -my surprise, they did it without a word of objection. Perhaps they -were conscious that they had taken advantage of my ignorance to get -a passage home free of charge. I was not sorry for their removal, -although they appeared to be good men; for one of them was a constant -singer of love-songs which were all High Dutch to me, and from -his proximity to my quarters his well-intended music became very -annoying. This difficulty removed, we proceeded again, under three -horse-power. By the time we reached the next station, the wind became -favorable, we hoisted our sail to the breeze, and cast off from the -horses. By keeping near the shore, out of the main current, we made -better progress in this way than we had done previously, and passed -several stations without stopping. And so we went on by sail or by -horse-power, according as the winds were favorable or adverse. - -August 6th, we reached Olakminsk, which is about 600 versts from -Yakutsk. By this time I began to think the mode of travelling I had -chosen very pleasant. The season was delightful, and the scenery as -we passed along was diversified with objects of sublimity and beauty. -At times we were moving through level country, and at times among -high mountains; in some places the river was contracted to a narrow -span by precipitous ranges of cliffs, and again its broad expanse -embraced many islands. To relieve the monotony of the confinement on -board my boat, I occasionally rode on horseback from one station to -another, and found the change very agreeable. The country in some -places was thick-wooded, chiefly with fir and birch; in others, it -was clothed with shrubbery, and I noticed currant and gooseberry -bushes, and frequently alighted to refresh myself with the fruit. -We passed a number of small clusters of shanties, inhabited by -Tunguscans, in the vicinity of which herds of cattle were grazing. -Near the houses were domestic reindeer of a large size. The children -were playing about in little groups, and the older ones were amusing -the younger by holding them on the backs of the deer, and teaching -them to ride,--making quite a rural and domestic scene. - -We had at no time on our route any lack of good milk, and once we had -about a gallon of rich cream given us. The idea struck me that it -might be converted into butter; I therefore had it put into a large -pot, and with a kind of pudding-stick sat down at my cabin door, and -as we were moving along began to stir it. In the course of half an -hour I produced a lump of butter that would have put to shame seven -eighths of the dairy-maids in this country. - -I had long since noticed the great deference shown to the military -in these parts, but I saw it particularly illustrated by my Cossack, -in exerting his authority among the people at a post-station. He was -scolding them for their laziness in hitching on the horses, and I -could hear that he was making a very great lion of me. “Start quick, -you rascals,” said he, “we have got a great American captain in the -boat, going on government business!” And this seemed to accelerate -everything, even the horses, for they travelled better after it. - -On the 15th, we passed Witim, which is about 1,400 versts from -Yakutsk. Here the favorable winds, of which we had availed -ourselves for several days past, left us, and we took, as usual, to -horse-power. A short time after, we came to a station of some ten or -twelve houses, where the inhabitants were in great perturbation on -account of the small-pox, which was raging among them. Some had fled -from the place, and others would have gone had they not been detained -by their families. The disease existed among them in all its stages, -from the symptoms to the full pox. I had had considerable experience -with it, and thought I might mitigate the suffering by inoculation. -They were all desirous that I should do so, and gathered anxiously -around me. I called for a needle and thread, and selecting one of the -subjects whose pox was ripe, drew the thread through the pustules -until it was saturated with matter. Then preparing the maggot (as I -believe it is called), by cutting the thread into very short pieces, -with my penknife I made a little incision in the upper arm, placed -in it one of the maggots and bound it there. I went through this -process on seven or eight, and instructed them how to perform it; -and as to their diet, to eat no fat or salt meat, but to confine -themselves to bread and milk. They were very grateful for the advice, -and for what I had done for them, and were desirous of manifesting -their gratitude in some more substantial form, but it was declined. - -After passing through an extensive grazing country, interspersed with -large fields of grain, about 300 versts from Witim we came to rapids, -with high precipitous banks on either side, where the velocity of the -current was so great that we were obliged to hug the shore to avoid -it. In some parts of it we could only get along by sending a small -boat ahead to carry a line to warp by. This was a slow and laborious -operation, and we were heartily rejoiced when we were through with -it. The rapids once passed, the scenery became as interesting as it -had been before, and the country, if anything, rather more populous -and thriving. We saw, beside farming and grazing, a number of men -engaged in fisheries along the banks of the stream. I could not see -but that there was as great a degree of happiness here as in any -other part of the world. The wants of the people were abundantly -provided for by the produce of the soil and the river, and beyond -this they seemed to have no desire. - -After passing through some more rapids, where we were again obliged -to cast off our horses and warp the boat, on the 19th we reached -Kirinsk, which is about 1,650 versts from Yakutsk. From here we went -on quickly, owing to the good path for the horses on the shore, -and on the 26th reached Wercholinsk. This was a considerable town, -situated on the right bank of the Lena; but we pushed by it without -stopping. We now began to be troubled with the shallowness of the -water, but we made out with difficulty to reach Katschuk, beyond -which there was hardly enough to float a canoe, and we concluded -we had reached the head of navigation. According to agreement I -delivered up my boat here, and took a post-carriage for Irkutsk, -where I arrived on the afternoon of the 28th of August, 1807, and -drove into the court square of the Company’s establishment. - - -IX. - - Irkutsk.--Journey to Tomsk.--New Travelling - Companion.--Tobolsk.--Russian Leave-taking. - -I presented my letters of introduction from the Chamberlain, Baron -von Resanoff, and was kindly welcomed by the Superintendent. He -invited me to make his house my home while I remained in the place. -I replied that my stay must be short, and begged him to assist me in -procuring a convenient vehicle for my journey, so that I might not be -obliged to change at every station, as I should if I went in a public -conveyance. - -I discharged my Cossack when I gave up my boat, and made him a -present of fifty rubles, all my cooking utensils, provisions, and -some other articles. He took his leave, with many thanks and good -wishes, which I cordially returned. I had brought Kutsnetsoff home -to his native town, from which he had been absent ten years. He -started off immediately to find his mother. The next morning he -made his appearance at my room, leading her in. She was a very -dignified-looking elderly lady, dressed in black. As he introduced -her to me, she dropped upon her knees, and, while the tears from an -overflowing and grateful heart were coursing down her cheeks, poured -out her thanks for the interest I had taken in the return of her -son. It touched me so deeply, that I could scarcely refrain from -tears myself. It carried my thoughts home to my poor mother, and I -raised her up, and assured her that, if I had done her son a favor, -or brought comfort and consolation to her, I was amply compensated -by the pleasure and satisfaction the deed itself afforded me. -Kutsnetsoff had previously observed that he should like to go on with -me to Moscow to see his brother, if his mother were willing. When -it was suggested to her, she readily gave her consent, being also -desirous that he should see his brother. - -While we were talking about the matter, who should drive into the -court square but Dr. Langsdorff. I was rejoiced to see him, but could -not account for his being so close upon my heels. It appeared that -he had arrived at Yakutsk shortly after my departure, and, making -but a short stay, had been pushing on in the small boats, hoping to -overtake and surprise me on the river. He had gained two days on me, -but encountered all kinds of troubles and vexations, such as leaky -boats, drunken boatmen, an inefficient Cossack guide, the upsetting -of the boat, and loss of papers. He was quite chagrined when I -told him that I, by taking a larger craft under my own control, -had avoided all these difficulties, and had made quite a pleasant -excursion of it. - -The Doctor having decided to make a longer stay than I desired to, -that he might visit Kiakta, across the Lake Baikal, I purchased a -vehicle which I thought would answer my purpose. It was called a -_pervoshka_, and was nothing more than a box rounded at the bottom, -and fixed firmly to the axletree without springs. A covered top -reached from the back part nearly to the middle, resembling the top -of a cradle. The forward part of the box was covered far enough -to make a seat for the driver, from which a boot extended to the -cradle-top. On the bottom of this outlandish concern I must either -lie or sit upright throughout my whole journey. I therefore procured -a good substantial feather-bed and put it in, with which and two or -three well-stuffed pillows, my luggage, and other wadding, I thought -I might get along without much chafing. As this carriage was only -calculated for one person, I took a post-carriage of much the same -construction for Parker and Kutsnetsoff. - -Being now all ready for the road, I decided to stay a day or two, and -look round the place with my friend the Doctor. I shall not attempt -a description of this large, and I might say handsome town. It is -the modern capital of Siberia, and is situated on the banks of the -beautiful river Angara, which is one of the largest tributaries of -the Yenisei. It was in that day, and I suppose still is, the great -commercial emporium of the eastern part of the empire, whence the -more distant provinces are supplied, and whither are brought the furs -and the products of the fisheries from Kamtchatka, Ochotsk, and the -Aleutian Islands; and through the frontier town of Kiakta, across -Lake Baikal, the teas, nankins, silks, and other articles which are -obtained from the Chinese in exchange for the sea-otter and sable -skins, and find such a ready market in Russia. - -Having a journey before me of 3,500 miles, and desirous of reaching -St. Petersburg before the close of navigation in the autumn, I was -prepared to travel day and night, and of course passed many towns and -villages without noticing them, only making short halts for a day or -two at some of the larger or shire-towns to rest. I was provided -with a new _deroshner_, and a good supply of copper money to pay for -fresh post-horses. On the 31st of August, having hitched the horses -to our vehicles,--that is, one in the shafts of each, and one on -each side,--and having again taken leave of Doctor Langsdorff and -the Company’s Superintendent, the Yemshik, as the driver is called, -mounted his box, cracked his whip, and away we went, leaving the -capital of Siberia behind us. The post-stations were about 25 versts, -or 15 miles, asunder, and we were well attended at them. If we -desired it, we could obtain something to eat, and I generally availed -myself of the opportunity twice a day, taking a substantial meal, -and topping off with a cup of tea, preparatory for which we almost -always found the kettle boiling. The Yemshik’s signal for starting -was the crack of his whip, and at that the horses would bound off -at full speed, and he would begin to sing. The song, as well as the -speed, was generally kept up from one station to another. The music -was sometimes quite pleasant and cheering; the horses, at any rate, -seemed to know that it meant “Go ahead.” - -In this way we continued night and day. On the 6th of September we -passed through Krasnojarsk, where the Chamberlain Baron von Resanoff -had died. We continued on without stopping, and on the 7th reached -the town of Poim, where I halted a couple of hours to deliver a -letter from the young man Chlabnekoff, whom I took as a passenger -from Kamtchatka to Ochotsk, to his brother. He called on me, and -insisted on my going to his house, if it was only for an hour. His -family wanted to see me. I took Kutsnetsoff with me, and we gave them -all the information we could about their brother. We found a splendid -collation prepared for us, with Madeira wine such as we do not have -in these days. After concluding the entertainment with a bottle of -champagne, we started off; and whatever the facts may have been, -we certainly felt much lighter than before. I merely mention this -circumstance to show that there was no lack of “the good stuff” in -Siberia. The Maine Law was not enforced there half a century ago. - -On the 10th I reached the shire-town of Tomsk, and was constrained -to acknowledge myself pretty well used up. I can assure those who -have not made a trial of this mode of travelling, that to lay on -one’s back in a carriage without any springs, for eight days and -nights in succession, is no joke. When I alighted occasionally my -whole frame was in a perfect tremor, yet the roads were not stony, -but tolerably good. There was no regular hotel in the town, and so -after a little inquiry we drove up to a large log-house, with a -square enclosure in front, the owner of which was kind enough to -entertain us. I immediately set Kutsnetsoff upon the lookout for a -more easy and convenient carriage, and told him if he should find one -to endeavor to dispose of my old one in part pay. In the mean time, -having a letter from my friend Lieutenant Schwostoff to his uncle, -who was Governor of the place, I waited on him. I was very cordially -received, and invited to dine the next day. - -In a short time Kutsnetsoff succeeded in finding a vehicle much -better than the old one. It was quite a stylish affair, on springs, -and two persons could ride in it conveniently; but I had to pay -as much to boot, perhaps, as both carriages were worth. I called -upon the Company’s agent to furnish me with 200 rubles, but he had -received no particular instructions to advance me money, and was -reluctant to do it. He was quite reasonable, however, and was willing -to listen to my story. While I was explaining to him who I was, and -why I wanted money, there were several persons standing by. Among -them was a good-looking, well-dressed man, who spoke up and said he -would let me have as large a sum as I wanted, at which the agent -said he was willing to supply me. After I had finished my business -the gentleman who made the kind offer of his purse informed me that -he himself was going to Moscow, and, if I had no objections, would -like to take a seat in my carriage, and share the expense. I hardly -knew what to answer, and I scrutinized him very closely. His face -wore an honest look, and he had about his person two conspicuous -orders of merit; so I concluded to accept his proposition. I found -no reason afterwards to regret it. He was a Greek by birth, and a -merchant of high standing. His name was Dementy Simonitch, and he had -done several meritorious acts, for which he received medals from the -Emperor Alexander, and likewise a present from him of a splendid gold -watch and chain. - -Having arranged this matter, I repaired to the Governor’s to dine -and take leave of him. I found a great many gentlemen there, but not -one who spoke English, so that I was almost a dummy amongst them. I -understood enough Russ, however, to learn that they were desirous -of inquiring into the nature and organization of our government. -I explained all the prominent points as well as I could, and they -appeared to understand, for they praised our institutions highly. If -I was able, under the circumstances, to form a correct opinion, there -was a good deal of the spirit of reform among them. After taking -leave of the Governor, I commenced preparations to start the next -morning. As I saw but little of the town, I can say but little or -nothing of it. It was quite a large place, the houses nearly all of -wood, and the streets broad and in some places planked in the centre -for the convenience of foot-travel, and yet in others so muddy that -there was no comfort in moving round out of a carriage. - -On the 12th of September I started with my new companion, and went on -at the same breakneck pace as before. My new coach was far superior -to the old one. We could sit up or lie down as we chose, and were -not annoyed by the intolerable jarring of the body. My companion was -very agreeable, and although he could not speak a word of English, -and my vocabulary of Russ was too limited to hold a continued, -intelligible conversation, we soon became accustomed to each other’s -pantomimic gestures, and got along quite understandingly. On the 19th -we arrived, without any casualties worthy of remark, at Tobolsk, the -ancient capital of Siberia, and put up, as usual, at a private house. - -Here my carriage-mate, Dementy, had acquaintances. He introduced -me to the family of Mr. Zelinzoff, or Green, a highly respectable -and wealthy merchant, and the proprietor of large iron-works at -Ekatereinburg. He was himself absent from home, but, together with -Dementy, I was invited by his son, who officiated as major-domo, to -dine with his family while I remained in the city. I take pleasure in -particularizing in regard to this family, on account of their marked -civility and kindness to a stranger. It consisted of Madam Zelinzoff, -three sons, a daughter, and a young man named Duro, who was a teacher -of French, and spoke English fluently. They lived in splendid style, -and spread a table for fifteen or twenty persons every day. Among the -numerous invited guests was a French military officer in the Russian -service, who spoke English well, and with whom I had a good deal of -chat. After dinner the ladies and gentlemen retired to a large hall, -where there was a billiard-table and a piano, violins and flutes, -on which the amateurs displayed their skill. This was the agreeable -practice daily while I was there. - -Perhaps I may be allowed here to make a few remarks in regard to the -city of Tobolsk, though I cannot give a minute description of it. It -is very singularly divided into the upper and lower town. The lower -town seems to have been once the bed of the river Irtich, which now, -uniting with the Tobol, runs through the western part of the valley, -leaving both the upper and lower town on the eastern side, but -divided distinctly by a steep bank, which was probably in former days -the margin of the stream. The lower town is sometimes, though rarely, -inundated; and on the other hand the upper town is inconvenienced -by a want of water. Taking both sections together they formed a -very large place, with a numerous and mixed population of Tartars, -Bucharians, and Kalmucks. The public buildings were mostly of stone, -but the private houses, with few exceptions, of wood. It was the -great mart of trade with the eastern part of the Empire, and all the -caravans from China and the distant provinces concentrated here. - -This place had formerly been the Botany Bay, or penal settlement, -of the Russians, and from the descendants of convicts a great and -flourishing city had sprung up, with its wealthy merchants, thrifty -traders, and literary and scientific men. The German and French -languages were taught and spoken by all the better classes. All kinds -of provisions were so cheap, that the poorest inhabitant never need -suffer for food; and I could see here, as throughout Siberia, the -kindliest feelings manifested toward the lower orders of society. - -Having remained at Tobolsk six days, we prepared to continue our -journey. Two of the young Mr. Zelinzoffs were to accompany us as -far as their father’s estate, at Ekatereinburg. Accordingly, after -dining and making some preliminary arrangements for departure, the -whole family, with their guests, assembled in the large room for a -little chat and to take leave. Now this leave-taking was a somewhat -formal piece of business, and I had misgivings as to how I should -acquit myself with becoming gallantry. The custom with the gentlemen -was for each to lay the right hand on the other’s back, and to kiss -each other on both cheeks;[36] not unfrequently the noses came in -rude collision. A lady presents you the back of the hand to kiss, and -at the same time she kisses you on the cheek. Being all ready for -action, the ladies and gentlemen placed themselves in a row round -the room, and then the performance was commenced by the two sons -who were going with us, and continued by my friend Dementy. By this -time the perspiration had begun to start upon my forehead; but I saw -it was of no use to be lagging, and so, summoning all my courage, I -turned to, and went through the ceremony like a veteran courtier. The -last of the ladies I came to was the daughter, a great beauty, and I -was greatly tempted, in violation of Russian etiquette, to kiss her -cheek, but I managed to restrain myself. - - -X. - - Flying Ferry-Boat.--Ekatereinburg.--Kazan.--A - Dinner-Party.--Moscow.--St. Petersburg.--Good News. - -After the ceremony described in the last chapter, we took to our -carriages and proceeded to the ferry which crosses the Irtich, where -we found what was called a flying ferry-boat, of sufficient size to -transport several teams at once.[37] The hull of the craft did not -swim deep in the water, but was furnished with a very deep keel along -its whole length. It had a short mast, placed about as far forward -as in sloops, and supported by shrouds. Now an anchor was sunk in -the centre of the river some distance above, and from the anchor a -rope, sustained on the surface by buoys, was extended and fastened to -the bow of the boat. By means of a block and pulley this rope could -be elevated about half the distance to the mast-head. When ready -for starting, the bow, which was always pointed directly up stream -at the landing-place, was pushed off a little, so that the current -might strike the keel at an angle. This position was maintained by -the use of the rudder; and as the boat could not drift down the -river, on account of the anchor to which it was attached, it was -driven sideways to the opposite shore. By this ingenious contrivance -passengers and freight were carried across without the least trouble -or labor. - -On the 24th we arrived at Ekatereinburg. During our stay here of -one night, our young friends showed us about the iron-works, and -we saw all the operations, from smelting the ore to working it up -into bar-iron. Gold ore was dug here by the government, and the -pure metal extracted by pulverizing, and washing it on an inclined -plane covered with ridges, which stopped the gold, while the lighter -substances were carried off with the water. It did not appear to be -a very money-making process. The next day we took leave of our young -friends, and pursued our journey westward to Kazan, on the river -Volga, which we reached on the 30th. Here my carriage-mate, Dementy, -was quite at home again, and we concluded to halt for a couple of -days. The city was large and well built, and the most important place -in the eastern part of Russia proper. - -I had for some time experienced the good effects of Dementy’s badge -of distinction, but it did us especial service here. It procured us -an invitation to dine with the military Governor, who was himself -of Greek extraction, and somewhat acquainted with my friend. I had -no great desire to go among great folks, as my wardrobe was scanty, -and the few clothes I possessed had grown pretty threadbare with the -wear and tear of my three years’ cruise. I wished to decline, but -Dementy said it would give offence. He had probably given an account -of my adventures, and of my negotiation with the Chamberlain, Baron -von Resanoff; and this, together with the mark of the Emperor’s -approbation which he himself wore, had brought us into notice. - -At the proper time the military carriage of the Governor came for us, -and away we went in fine style. We found a great number of persons -assembled at his house, including officers, military and civil, and -many ladies. I was introduced as an American captain. I felt a little -uncomfortable lest I should be questioned with regard to my official -grade, as it might not have been good policy to have explained my -claim to a captaincy. It was a splendid entertainment, however, -and, as I could not converse very intelligibly, I had little else -to do than ply the knife and fork, while Dementy, who had somehow -picked up all the particulars about me and my business, gave them -my whole story, much to my satisfaction. After dinner we retired to -another room, where coffee was served. The ladies questioned me about -our country, and to show that they had some knowledge of American -history, they spoke of Washington and Franklin in high terms. We -conversed upon the subject until I had exhausted my whole stock of -Russ in eulogizing those men. - -October 2d, we started on our route for Moscow, our next -stopping-place. We met with nothing remarkable excepting muddy -roads and frequent altercations at the post-stations. There was -evidently less respect paid to my friend’s decorations, and less -alacrity in attending to us. We, however, reached the great city -of Moscow on the 8th, and passed within the first circle, which is -called the Zemlänoigorod. We wound along through the streets, as -it seemed to me, for miles. At last Dementy pointed out a public -house, where we stopped awhile to brush up and make ourselves look -respectable,--after which Dementy left us. Kutsnetsoff sought at once -the whereabouts of the Company’s establishment, and we started again, -passed through the Bale gate into the circle of that name, and drove -to the Company’s house. I entered the spacious stone building with -Kutsnetsoff, and met his brother, the Superintendent, on the great -landing-stair. He was a splendid-looking man. After the brothers -had embraced each other, and while tears were rolling down their -cheeks, I was introduced. I was cordially welcomed, and led into a -large hall, where I was presented to the Superintendent’s lady, and -Kutsnetsoff to a sister he had never seen before. She was a very -handsome woman, and richly dressed in the latest French style. - -After exchanging mutual inquiries, I was told by the Superintendent -that his house must be my home while I remained in the city. I -replied that I was desirous of reaching St. Petersburg before the -close of navigation, and consequently my stay must be short. They -concluded that I could well spare a week. In that time I thought I -could replenish my wardrobe with the latest European fashions, and at -my request, a draper was sent for; he took my dimensions, and I was -soon fitted out completely. My Kamtchatka sable-skins were converted -into a lining for a great coat,--as something of that kind had now -become necessary,--and they made a splendid article. - -In the mean time, having leisure, I availed myself of the politeness -of a young gentleman of the house, who offered to go round with me -and show me the city. I made no note of what I saw at the time, -and since then half a century has rolled by. I can only recall -some of the leading features of the great metropolis, which may be -interesting, as the date of my visit was but a few years before the -conflagration which drove Napoleon from the country. The city is -situated on an elevation which in shape resembles a turtle’s back. -The river Moskva sweeps round nearly two thirds of it, and the land -rises gently from the margin to the centre, which is so high as to -command a splendid panoramic view of its whole extent. The city was -divided into four departments or circles. The first, the Kremlin, -situated on the crown of this eminence and enclosed with heavy -ramparts of stone, formed a sort of fortress of very ample extent. It -embraced within its walls magnificent cathedrals, palaces, and public -buildings, all gorgeously decorated. Here also was the great bell, -which stands on the ground, with a triangular piece broken out of -the rim. Its weight is said to be four hundred thousand pounds.[38] -The next circle was the Kitaigorod, or Chinese Town, also containing -several cathedrals, convents, parish churches, and many noblemen’s -houses, interspersed with mean-looking wooden buildings. The third -circle, which surrounded the former, was the Beloigorod, or White -Town, and had a white wall. This was the business part of the city, -and the streets, though mostly paved, were muddy and filthy. There -were here, however, many public edifices, and handsome private -houses, the residences of the merchants and traders. The fourth -circle, called Zemlänoigorod, or Land Town, was surrounded with an -earthen embankment, and enclosed an area of nearly ten miles. In -this as in the other circles, there was a great diversity in the -cost of the different structures, the very extremes of magnificence -and meanness being mingled together promiscuously. I was very much -impressed with the grandeur and beauty of the whole city; spread over -more than twenty square miles of ground, adorned with a countless -number of costly and elegant buildings, with thousands of spires and -cupolas covered with silver and gold, when viewed from the Kremlin it -afforded one of the most pleasing spectacles I ever gazed upon.[39] - -I was loath to leave when the time allotted for my stay had expired, -but there was no help for it. So, equipped in the fashionable rig -with which the draper furnished me, I turned my face toward St. -Petersburg. The Superintendent was kind enough to propose that -Kutsnetsoff should accompany me to my journey’s end, which proposal -I gladly accepted. On the morning of the 17th, I took leave of the -good friends who had shown me so much kindness, and stepped into my -carriage, rode through the suburbs, and at noon emerged into the open -country. We passed many villages and large towns, but continued on -without stopping at any of them except to take our meals. - -On the 21st of October, 1807, we reached the gates of St. Petersburg, -and, after going through a thorough examination of passports, were -permitted to go on. We drove at once to the Company’s establishment, -where I was kindly received and entertained by Mr. Booldakoff, the -first director of the Russian American Company. It was evening when I -arrived, and as neither Mr. B. nor any one in the house could speak -English, I remained partially ignorant of the business which most -interested me until the next morning. A gentleman then came in who -accosted me in good round English, and I was quite overjoyed at the -sound. This was Mr. Benedict Cramer, a gentleman with whom I became -very intimate in business afterwards. He was the senior partner of -the house of Cramer, Smith, & Co., and was also one of the directors -of the Company. - -He soon threw light upon my whole business by saying that his -partner, Mr. Smith, was in the United States, and had seen my -owners and assured them that the bills of exchange, the duplicates -of which had reached them through the hands of Mr. Moorfield, were -good. Mr. Moorfield had been out with a ship in the course of the -season, the bills had been accepted and paid with fifteen per cent -advance, because Spanish dollars, in which they were payable, -commanded that premium. The proceeds had been invested in hemp, -iron, and manufactures and sent to America; and the business had -been transacted through his house. “You have now nothing to do,” he -concluded, “but to take all the pleasure you can while you remain -with us.” I shook him heartily by the hand, and made him a low -bow; after which we walked out together to his place of business. -He introduced me to his brother and Mr. L. Harris, the American -Consul, who was connected with his firm; and in the same way I became -acquainted with a number of influential gentlemen, from whom I -received many civilities. - -Mr. Booldakoff, whose house I made my home, showed me every -attention. He took me in his carriage to all the places of note in -the city, and had an audience with the Count Ramansoff, the Prime -Minister, to whom I was presented. In short, every mark of respect -that could be accorded to a stranger was shown me. - - -XI. - - I sail down the Baltic in a Dutch Galiot.--Take Passage at - Elsinore in the Mary for Portland.--Put in at Liverpool.--Home - again.--Conclusion. - -Things went on so smoothly and pleasantly at St. Petersburg that -I took no note of time. Six days had already slipped by before I -began to think of making a further move. There were no American -ships at Cronstadt when I arrived, but I was told that there were -always opportunities till the last of November to obtain a passage to -England, so that I felt quite easy. Just as I commenced preparations -for starting, however, war was declared between Russia and England, -and all foreign ships left Cronstadt. I now thought it doubtful -whether I could obtain a passage to England, but I made all haste -for the port, to make a trial, at least. Mr. Booldakoff gave me a -letter to the harbor-master, the Consul one to his Vice, the Messrs. -Cramer one to Messrs. Belfour, Ellah, & Co., at Elsinore. With these -I took leave of my St. Petersburg friends, and started; but when I -arrived at the Mole I was quite discouraged to find that there was -not a merchant-vessel in sight. I called on the Vice-Consul, but he -knew of no way to help me. Though thinking it would be useless, I -determined to present my letter to the harbor-master. He read it, -and after a little reflection, and a number of questions about my -journey, said that I had better go down to the Mole head with him, -and see what could be done. - -We found, on inquiry, that there was one solitary vessel, a small -galiot, lying at anchor below the Tolbeacon, about three miles off. -She was bound for London, and he thought I could get a passage in -her, if I were willing to try; at the same time he offered to send -me aboard. I jumped at the proposition, and told Parker to get our -goods and chattels into the boat as soon as possible. Thanking the -harbor-master for his assistance, I started off for the galiot. -She was a small craft, of seventy or eighty tons burden, loaded -with tallow. The skipper was a little old Dutchman, short of five -feet in height, and a mate and cook composed his crew. I asked him -if he would take me as passenger to London. “Yaw,” says he. “And -will you let my man work his passage?” “Yaw, goot,” says he. I paid -the officer of the boat for his trouble, and he left us. Being now -at leisure, I began to look round to see what kind of a ship and -accommodations we had got. She was rather a flat-bottomed vessel, -carrying lee-boards, to keep her from drifting to the leeward when -sailing by the wind. I questioned the skipper about the provisions, -and he believed that there were enough, such as they were. The cabin -was a trunk, so called, above the deck, abaft the mainmast, in which -there were two boxes with slide-doors. One was his berth, and the -other the mate’s. He informed me that I must sleep with him, and -my man must turn in and out with the mate. I thought this a fair -arrangement, and so we settled it. - -It was morning when I went on board; and after dinner, which -consisted of beans and buckwheat pudding, we got under way. The -wind was light but favorable, so that we crept along down the Gulf -at about the same rate we used to go in our little Russian vessel. -The weather was moderate and the sea smooth, and after so much -land-travel I enjoyed the change very much. We continued to grope -along until we reached the island of Bornholm, in the Baltic. Here we -took a westerly gale, which would have put a stop to our progress if -we had not fortunately got under the lee of the island, and continued -sailing from one end to the other of it for two days, when the gale -abated, and the wind changed. This enabled us to continue on our -course, so that on the 13th of November we reached Elsinore. Here I -presented my letters from the Messrs. Cramer, and was kindly received -by Messrs. Belfour, Ellah, & Co. - -Though the galiot was detained by contrary winds, as long as there -was no alternative, I concluded to stick by her; but on the second -day I was standing on the pier and looking up the sound towards -Copenhagen, when I saw a ship coming down with a large American -ensign flying, at the sight of which my heart leaped right up into -my throat. I waited until she came to anchor, and then called a -shore-boat and went off to her. She proved to be the Mary of -Portland, Captain David Gray, and was homeward bound. This was -joyful news, and affected me so deeply that I could hardly tell the -Captain my story. At last, after making known who I was, and from -whence I came, I asked him if he would take me as passenger, and he -readily consented. I went immediately to the galiot to settle with -the little Dutch skipper. To the question, how much was I to pay him, -he answered that he only wanted “Was billig ist, das ist mir recht.” -Not knowing exactly what that was, I tendered him twenty Spanish -dollars, with which he was well satisfied, and made him a bonus of -a pair of leather breeches, which he had worn ever since we left -Cronstadt. Wishing him a prosperous voyage, I took my leave and my -baggage and went on board the Mary. She was a fine ship, in ballast, -and had a splendid cabin for the times. The captain was a social, -clever fellow, and we soon became well acquainted. We left Elsinore -on the 20th, and proceeded down the Kattegat. When we got down as -far as Gottenburg, we found the wind blowing in heavily through the -Sleeve, which obliged the pilot to put into Marstrand, a small port -in Sweden. Here we lay two days. - -On the 24th, we put to sea again. We passed the Naze of Norway, and -steered for the Orkney Islands; but, owing to adverse winds and -stormy weather, it was the 2d of December before we got through the -Fair Isle Passage. We then encountered a series of westerly gales, -in the course of which it was discovered that one of the ship’s -rudder-braces had worked loose. It was deemed unsafe to pursue our -course across the Atlantic, and Captain Gray accordingly altered -his course for Liverpool, where we arrived on the 15th. This was a -great disappointment to me, particularly as my pecuniary resources -were exhausted, and I saw before me unavoidable expenses; at the -same time, I had no relish for the storms of a northern passage and -a winter’s coast. I reconciled myself, however, with the prospect of -seeing England; and as Captain Gray offered to supply me with money -until I reached Portland, I was quite content. I went with him to -a boarding-house, where we remained while the ship was undergoing -repairs. In the mean time, I made myself acquainted with the city and -its environs. At the end of two months the Mary was ready for sea -again, and having taken on board a quantity of salt, we sailed on the -7th of February. We had a pleasant voyage, and arrived at Portland -on the 25th of March. Here I settled with the Captain, to whom I was -indebted for my passage, board, and sundry loans, the whole amounting -to the sum of two hundred and fifty dollars. I gave him a draft on -Mr. John Park, of Boston, and it proved quite fortunate for him that -I did so. His owners had failed just before our arrival, and, as they -were indebted to him, he would have been a loser but for this draft. - -You may suppose that I started with as little delay as possible -for Bristol. I arrived there on the 1st of April, 1808, and thus -terminated an absence of three years and eight months. In two years -and six months from the time of my departure, the owners were in -receipt of the proceeds of the voyage, which resulted in a clear -profit of ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND DOLLARS. - - * * * * * - -I have now reached the end of my story; but before I lay down my pen, -let me say a word more of the friends mentioned in the preceding -pages. I continued in the Russian trade, in which I had made so -successful a beginning, and returned to St. Petersburg in 1809. It -so happened that I found Dr. Langsdorff and Lieutenants Schwostoff -and Davidoff there. The latter two gentlemen, since we last met, -had been engaged in the war with Sweden, and had become honorably -distinguished. While I was visiting the Doctor, they came over to -pass an evening with us, and we sat talking of old times until two -in the morning. They then started for their own lodgings, which were -on the other side of the river. Langsdorff and myself accompanied -them to the drawbridge, which was open for ships to pass in the -night. Our friends, therefore, passed over a plank which lay from the -bridge to a vessel in the river and regained the other side of the -bridge by another plank, calling to us and wishing us good-night, -when they were safe over, and we then went back to our quarters. -The next morning we received the melancholy intelligence that two -naval officers had been drowned in the Neva during the night, and, -upon further inquiry, we learned that they were our friends. After -we had parted from them, they became desirous, God knows for what -purpose, to return to us again, and, in order to get over quicker, -they attempted to spring from the bridge upon a bark that was going -through. They mistook a sail for the deck of the vessel, and both -fell into the water. The people in the bark endeavored to rescue -them, but the night was so dark, and the current so strong, that they -went under before they received any assistance. Though fifty years -have gone by since the death of these young men, I cannot forbear to -recall their many virtues and lament their untimely end. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[23] Perry’s “History of the De Wolf Family,” p. 50. - -[24] Three months before this vessel had brought into Bristol the -first cargo received from a Chinese port.--_Ed._ - -[25] Ever since Captain Robert Gray of Tiverton, R. I., master of -the ship Columbia of Boston, had, in 1792, sailed his vessel into -the great river to which he gave the name of his ship, the trade of -the northwest coast had been almost entirely in the hands of Boston -merchants. The natives called all traders “Boston Men.” So, in the -days of the Crusades, the Saracens called all Crusaders “Franks” -because of the overwhelming predominance of the French nation. The -Crusades were the “Gesta Dei per Francos.” Captain Gray’s act laid -the foundation for the American title to Oregon.--_Ed._ - -[26] Cooper seized upon this well known fact for some striking -passages in his novel “Afloat and Ashore.”--_Ed._ - -[27] Duffel, a coarse woollen cloth named from the town near Antwerp -in which it was manufactured.--_Ed._ - -[28] Leather canoes. They consist of a skeleton of wood, over which -is stretched a covering made of the skins of sea-lions. They are long -and narrow, and hold from one to three persons. Each person sits in a -round hole just fitted to the size of the body.--[Author’s note.] - -[29] George von Langsdorff was born in Heidelberg in the Grand -Duchy of Baden in 1774, his father being at that time Chancellor of -the University of Heidelberg. Having taken the degree of Doctor of -Medicine at the University of Göttingen, he shortly afterward went -with Prince Waldeck to Lisbon as his physician. On the death of the -Prince he returned by way of England to his home. At the age of -thirty he accompanied Admiral Krusenstern, as botanist, on a voyage -around the world. Emperor Alexander I of Russia made him a Knight of -the Order of St. Anne with the rank of Aulic Councillor, and also -made him a Baron. Later he appointed him Consul General at the port -of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, a post which he held with honor for many -years. He died at Freiburg, Baden, in 1852, in the seventy-eighth -year of his age. Besides other volumes he published an account of his -trip around the world under the title “Bemerkungen auf einer Reise um -die Welt in den Jahren 1803 bis 1807 von Copenhagen nach Brasilien, -der Sudsee, Kamtschatka, und Japan.” The second volume treats of his -journey “Von Kamtschatka nach der Insel St. Paul, Unalaska, Kodiak, -Sitcha, Neu Albion, Kamtschatka, Ochotsk und durch Sibirien nach -St. Petersburg.” Captain DeWolf must have had a translation of this -volume at hand when he wrote his own story. The German naturalist and -the American sea captain were evidently “two of a kind.” How highly -the American esteemed his friend may be judged from the fact that -he named his only son John Langsdorff. The boy was always called -Langsdorff.--_Ed._ - -[30] In the Russian Church all the priests are called Popes, _i.e._, -Fathers, Papa = Father. So in the Latin Church all priests were Popes -until the supremacy of the Pope of Rome was established. Cf. the -development of the English “Parson.”--_Ed._ - -[31] Dr. Langsdorff in his “Reise” devotes much space to the -treatment of the Arctic dogs.--_Ed._ - -[32] Even in the great Cathedral of Kazan, in Petrograd, the -arrangements for a christening seem, to a foreigner, somewhat -primitive. There not a tub is used for the immersion but an iron -basin supported upon a tripod. Captain De Wolf had forgotten many -features of the beautiful ceremony.--_Ed._ - -[33] Dr. Langsdorff’s account of this incident shows Captain De -Wolf’s character in a very beautiful light: “I cannot pass over in -silence an affecting scene which occurred just before his departure. -The three Aleutians whom I have frequently spoken of as serving as -sailors on our ship, came to Captain De Wolf, and, with tears running -down their cheeks, threw themselves at his feet and begged him to -take them with him to his native land. ‘We will serve you without -pay. We will ask only for a little bread and fish. We will follow -your horses, even though we must go on foot a great part of the way. -We would rather go with you than return to our own country.’ Mr. De -Wolf was greatly troubled because he could not grant their request.” -Langsdorff, Reise, vol. 2, page 292.--_Ed._ - -[34] A verst is 212⅕ rods, or, roughly, five eighths of a -mile.--[Author’s note.] - -[35] It will be noted that Captain De Wolf nowhere speaks of -vodka.--_Ed._ - -[36] Our traveller was as much impressed with this habit of kissing -as was Erasmus on his first landing in England. The Dutch scholar -was pleased with the English fashion, which is, on the whole, far -superior to the Russian style.--_Ed._ - -[37] Flying ferry boats not unlike these may be seen on some -California rivers today.--_Ed._ - -[38] At least 448,000 pounds.--_Ed._ - -[39] This was five years before the burning of Moscow in the -Napoleonic War.--_Ed._ - - - - -PART III - - -JAMES DE WOLF AND THE PRIVATEER YANKEE - - -1--JAMES DE WOLF - -The story of the life of James De Wolf reads like a chapter of wild -romance. Without any advantages of birth, fortune or education his -indomitable energy and his commanding abilities won for him a seat in -the greatest deliberative assembly in the world, the Senate of the -United States, and also secured for him one of the largest fortunes -in America. - -He was born in Bristol, March 18, 1764, the seventh son of Mark -Anthony De Wolf, clerk of the Prince Charles of Lorraine, whose raid -upon the coast of French Guiana under the leadership of Simeon Potter -has already been set forth in this book. He was born of American -parents upon the French island of Guadaloupe. The sudden fancy of -Captain Potter rescued him from a possible life of obscurity upon -that island that his children might rise to influence and power and -wealth in America. - -Mark Anthony De Wolf married a sister of Potter and became master -of one of his brother-in-law’s vessels. More than a very moderate -income he never enjoyed, and his sons were compelled to earn their -own living at an early age. Following the natural trend of Bristol -boys of that period they took up their father’s calling. All who -reached manhood became shipmasters, and nearly all of them attained -large riches. One of James De Wolf’s descendants, the Rev. C. B. -Perry, tells in his book “The De Wolfs” this story of his ancestor’s -entrance upon a seafaring life: “Several of them [the De Wolf boys] -who had been sweating in the corn rows one summer day flung down -their hoes, declaring they would no longer hoe corn when they knew -they could get places on their Uncle Sim Potter’s privateer about -to sail from Providence. So off they trudged upon the road to that -city. As after their long dusty walk they emerged from Seekonk Woods -near the old ‘Red Bridge,’ James, the youngest but one of the party, -becoming conscious of the dilapidated condition of his hat, and -with the vanity of a handsome lad less resigned than his father to -his appearance, cried out, ‘Boys, I’m not going through Providence -like this,’ and flung the crownless brim--or was it a brimless -crown?--into the wayside bushes. Bareheaded he presented himself with -his brothers to his no doubt astonished yet sympathetic, bluff old -Uncle Sim Potter. They secured the coveted places on the ship and -thus began that life of devotion to the sea which the sea was soon so -richly to repay.” - -Twice in his early seafaring life James De Wolf was captured; for -many weeks he was held a prisoner on the Bermuda Islands. His zeal -and ability speedily won for him promotion. Having entered the -employ of John Brown, the leading ship owner of Providence, he was -made master of a vessel before he had completed his twentieth year. -His earliest voyages as captain were made to the coast of Africa as -master of a small slaver. No stigma whatever was attached to the -slave trade at that time. It was regarded as a perfectly legitimate -business and was known to be more than ordinarily hazardous because -of climatic conditions and the dangerous nature of the coast. The -captains engaged in it had to be men of unusual force of character -in order to be successful. Before he was twenty-five years old De -Wolf had accumulated a fortune large enough to keep him in ease and -even luxury for the remainder of his life. But he could not be idle. -He was continually branching out into new ventures in which he was -almost invariably successful. Everything seemed to turn to gold in -his hands. His aim was always to be first in a new field. After he -had skimmed the cream from a market he was content to leave for those -who followed him the moderate, though perhaps surer gains. - -As long as the slave trade remained legal he continued in it, not -infrequently going to the southern ports to supervise the sale of -his cargoes. This was the case in 1804 when the Legislature of -South Carolina opened the ports of that State for the importation -of African slaves. One day one of his townsmen, a sailor on a new -arrival from the African coast, was walking along the principal -street of Charleston, in charge of a party of slave girls that had -just been sold, each dusky maiden being picturesquely though not -sumptuously attired in a short cotton chemise. As he was passing -the leading hotel, he heard a well known voice call out: “Benjamin! -Benjamin! Where are you going with those girls?” and down from the -veranda came “Captain Jim” to greet his fellow Bristolian and to -talk over his voyage with him. During the four years that followed -two hundred and two vessels, carrying nearly forty thousand slaves, -entered the port of Charleston. - -Sixteen years afterward Mr. De Wolf was elected a member of the -United States Senate, where his large business experience and his -special knowledge of industrial and commercial conditions gave him -great influence. Like most of the Senators from the Northern States -he opposed the admission of Missouri as a slave State. Public opinion -in the North concerning slavery had greatly changed since 1808. In -that year the African slave trade was prohibited by law, and very -soon after all the leading nations of the world united in efforts -to suppress it. But because it immediately became more profitable -than ever before, men still continued to engage in it. Then came the -“horrors of the Middle Passage” (i.e., the voyage from Africa to the -West Indies) at which all the world shuddered. Those who had engaged -in the earlier trade were covered with an obloquy which they did not -deserve. - -Public opinion concerning slavery as practiced in the South also -changed, but not so quickly in South Carolina, the leading slave -State, as elsewhere. There the planters who formed the governing -class had only come to draw a distinction between the men who brought -the slaves from Africa and the men who used them after they were -landed in America. Even today, in the North as well as the South, -the same subtle distinction is drawn. The fact that the men who -brought slaves faced innumerable dangers in their voyages counted for -nothing in the judgment of those who, in ease and safety, enjoyed -the fruits of slave labor. Senator Smith of South Carolina was the -exponent of the Southern idea. In an impassioned speech he reflected -severely upon the bitterness the people of Rhode Island had lately -shown against slaveholders, and especially against the admission of -Missouri as a slave State. “This, however, he believed could not -be the temper or opinion of the majority, from the late election -of James De Wolf as a member of the Senate, as he had accumulated -an immense fortune by the slave trade.” He went on to say that, of -the two hundred and two vessels whose names he gave, “ten and their -African cargoes belonged to Mr. De Wolf,” and he closed his speech -with a recapitulation tabulating the facts given in the following -paragraph: - -From January 1, 1804, to December 31, 1807, inclusive, two hundred -and two slave ships entered the port of Charleston. Seventy of -these vessels were owned in Great Britain, three in France, one in -Sweden, sixty-one in Charleston, fifty-nine in Rhode Island and -eight in other American ports. Of the two hundred and two consignees -ninety-one were natives of Great Britain, eighty-eight of Rhode -Island, thirteen of Charleston and ten of France. Altogether, 39,075 -slaves were brought in. More than half of them, 19,949, came under -the British flag. French ships brought 1,078. The fifty-nine vessels -hailing from Rhode Island brought in 8,238, as follows: Bristol -ships, 3,914, Newport 3,488, Providence 556, Warren 280. As is -evident from the cargoes the American vessels engaged in the trade -were much smaller than the foreign craft. The seventy British slavers -averaged almost two hundred and eighty-five slaves each. The French -average was three hundred and fifty-nine plus, while the fifty-nine -Rhode Islanders averaged not quite one hundred thirty-nine and a -half. The foreign vessels were probably full rigged ships, while the -Narragansett Bay craft were for the most part brigs and schooners of -two hundred tons or less. Even so they were larger than the Newport -slavers captured by the enemy in the early years of the “Old French -and Indian War,” a part of the Seven Years War in Europe, 1756-1763. -Those vessels had “live cargoes” varying from forty-three to one -hundred and thirty head. The Caesar of Newport, a full rigged ship, -carried only one hundred and sixteen. Of the vessels mentioned in -these Tales the Yankee’s tonnage was one hundred and sixty tons. The -Juno was a full rigged ship of two hundred and fifty tons, one of the -finest vessels sailing from Bristol in her time. The cargo of twenty -Junos could easily be stowed in the holds of one of the five masted -schooners that bring coal into the port of Providence today. The -tonnage of the Prince Charles of Lorraine is not known. - -Study of the statistical tables on which Senator Smith based his -remarks[40] shows that Mr. De Wolf was interested in four other Rhode -Island ships besides the ten credited to him by the Senator from -South Carolina. These hailed from Rhode Island and were consigned -to Christian & De Wolf. He may also have been the owner of three -other Rhode Islanders which on their first voyage were not consigned -to him. The statistics show that the voyage to Africa and return -must ordinarily have taken more than a year. During the year 1804 -but three Rhode Island slave ships entered the port of Charleston, -and the total number of slavers was twenty, of which seven hailed -from Charleston itself. The next year the number of arrivals had -increased to thirty, six of which were owned in Rhode Island and five -in South Carolina. In 1806 the number of arrivals was fifty-six, -thirteen being Rhode Island vessels, and the same number hailing -from Charleston. In the last open year, 1807, the arrivals leaped -to ninety-six, thirty-seven of them belonging in Rhode Island and -thirty-three in South Carolina. Of the Rhode Island vessels, two, -the Neptune and the Hiram, made three round trips each, while ten -others brought in two cargoes. Two of the sixty-one Charleston ships -made three voyages, and five accomplished two. Nine of the vessels of -Great Britain made two voyages each; no British vessel made three. -The four big Frenchmen entered the harbor but once. Apparently small, -swift ships were more profitable than large ones. Necessarily a -large part of the trip was consumed in securing a cargo, and the -dangers of the “coast fever” were greatest in the case of a large -ship. - -The African trade was but one of the commercial avenues in which -Mr. De Wolf’s ships sailed. His larger vessels had already visited -Chinese ports when the smaller craft turned their prows toward -Africa. While the little Hiram was gathering cargoes of naked -negroes, the full rigged ship Juno was filling its hold with the furs -of the frozen “Northwest Coast.” How exceedingly profitable that -venture was we have already learned from the account of “Norwest -John.” Until the year 1812 the chief obstacle to the development of -American commerce was the constant interference of British warships -and their illegal impressment of American sailors on the pretence -that the men impressed were not Americans but Englishmen, and -therefore subject to the British Crown. As a large ship owner Mr. -De Wolf had suffered great losses. Of these he had kept a careful -account and he longed for the day of retaliation to come. To most -of the New Englanders of that day the act passed on June 18, 1812, -declaring war between the United States and the United Kingdom of -Great Britain and Ireland seemed the death blow to their commercial -prosperity. Not so did it seem to James De Wolf. He saw in it the -opportunity to regain from captured merchantmen all that he had lost -at the hands of British men-of-war. Not for personal reasons alone -did he rejoice at the commencement of hostilities. He believed that -the interests of the whole country demanded it; all his sympathies -were enlisted in it; all his resources he confidently staked upon -the final issue of the struggle. He caused the banks in which he -owned a controlling interest to invest all their available capital -in United States bonds, and when the national credit was lowest he -advanced from his own purse money to build a sloop of war.[41] Mr. -De Wolf early grasped the fact that the only vulnerable part of -Great Britain, as far as the United States was concerned, was its -merchant marine. He foresaw that the American privateers would drive -the English commerce from the ocean and he at once proceeded to -perform his part in accomplishing that result. Not the United States -war vessels, marvellous though their achievements were, but the -privateers that sailed out from Bristol and Baltimore and many ports -of New England, brought the War of 1812 to an end. - -Besides the Yankee Mr. De Wolf was the principal owner of three other -privateers, the Water Witch, the Blockade and the Macdonough. The -Water Witch was the only one of these to send a prize into Bristol -harbor. She was a little coasting schooner of more than ordinary -speed. Her owners procured for her a privateer’s license that she -might seize the slower craft that furnished the British fleet with -supplies. Her one prize was a flour laden schooner which netted a -profit to its owners of about $5,000, a sum which paid for the -Water Witch several times over. The Blockade sailed from Bristol on -a four months cruise November 19, 1812. It had been planned that she -should sail in company with the Yankee but that little hermaphrodite -brig[42] was too fast for her. She took a dozen or more vessels, but -all her prizes were recaptured and she proved to be only a bill of -expense to her owners. From the Macdonough great things were hoped. -She was much the largest and fastest of the Bristol ships but she -entered the contest too late. She found an ocean swarming with the -sails of warships when she sailed out from Narragansett Bay. Her -wonderful speed prevented her capture and she was able to take many -prizes but all her prizes were retaken. Oliver Wilson, successful -captain of the Yankee on two of her cruises, was her commander on -her one cruise, so it goes without saying that she was well handled, -but she proved to be a losing investment. She was built by Captain -Carr at Warren in the last year of the war, and after the struggle -was ended was placed in the Cuban trade. Once she made the voyage -from Havana to Bristol in six days notwithstanding the fact that she -was lying becalmed for a whole day. After the slave trade had been -declared illegal and hence required the very swiftest vessels for its -service, she was sold to Cuban parties who fitted her for a slaver. -Her career as such was not long. Having a cargo of slaves on board -she was chased one day by a warship, and, running for shelter into -the harbor of Matanzas, struck upon a reef on which she was soon -pounded to pieces. Her crew were saved to a man. Not so the slaves; -they all perished. - -Eleven days after the Declaration of War was proclaimed Mr. De Wolf -sent to the Secretary of War this letter: - - BRISTOL, R.I., June 30, 1812. - - The Honorable WILLIAM EUSTIS, - Secretary of War:-- - - Sir; I have purchased and now ready for sea, an armed brig, (one of - the most suitable in this country for a privateer) of one hundred - and sixty tons burden, mounting eighteen guns, and carries one - hundred and twenty men, called the Yankee, commanded by Oliver - Wilson. Being desirous that she should be on her cruise as soon as - possible, I beg that you will cause a commission to be forwarded - as soon as practicable to the Collector of the District, that this - vessel may not be detained. - - I am very respectfully, Sir, - Your obedient servant, - JAMES DE WOLF. - -The commission of the Yankee was issued July 13, 1812. Her owners -were James De Wolf and John Smith, the latter owning but one-quarter -of the vessel. The Articles of Agreement under which the privateer -sailed were as follows: - - -ARTICLES OF AGREEMENT BETWEEN THE OWNERS, OFFICERS AND COMPANY OF -THE PRIVATE ARMED VESSEL OF WAR, YANKEE. - - 1st. It is agreed by the parties that the Owners fit the Vessel - for sea and provide her with great guns, small arms, powder, shot - and all other warlike stores, also with suitable medicines and - every other thing necessary for such a vessel and her cruise for - all of which no deduction is to be made from the shares, for which - the Owners or their substitutes shall receive or draw One Half the - nett proceeds of all such Prizes or prize as may be taken, and the - other half shall be the property of the Vessel’s Company to be - divided in proportions as mentioned in the 15th article, except the - cabin-stores and furniture which belong to the Captain. - - 2d. That for preserving due decorum on board said vessel, no man - is to quit or go out of her on board any other vessel, or on shore - without having first obtained leave of the Commanding officer on - board, under the penalty of such punishment or fine as shall be - decreed by the Captain and Officers. - - 3d. That the Cruise shall be where the Owners or the major part of - them shall direct. - - 4th. If any person shall be found a RINGLEADER of any Mutiny, or - causing disturbance, or refuse to obey the Captain, or any Officer, - behave with Cowardice, or get drunk in time of action, he or they - shall forfeit his or their shares of any dividend, or be otherwise - punished at the discretion of the Captain and Officers. - - 5th. If any person shall steal or convert to his own use any part of - a prize or prizes, or be found pilfering any money or other things - belonging to this Vessel, her Officers, or Company, and be thereof - convicted by her Officers, he shall be punished and forfeit as - aforesaid. - - 6th. That whoever first spies a prize or sail, that proves worth 100 - dollars a share, shall receive Fifty Dollars from the gross sum; and - if orders are given for boarding, the first man on the deck of the - Enemy shall receive Half a share to be deducted from the gross sum - of prize-money. - - 7th. That if any one of the said Company shall in time of action - lose an eye or a joint, he shall receive Fifty Dollars, and if he - lose a leg or an arm, he shall receive Three Hundred Dollars to be - deducted out of the Gross sum of Prize-money. - - 8th. That if any of said Company shall strike or assault any male - prisoner, or rudely treat any female prisoner, he shall be punished - or fined as the Officers shall decree. - - 9th. That if any of the said Company shall die or be killed in the - voyage, and any prizes be taken before or during the action in which - he is so killed, his share or shares shall be paid to his legal - representatives. - - 10th. That whoever deserts the said Vessel, within the time - hereinafter mentioned, shall forfeit his Prize-money to the Owners - and Company of the said Vessel, his debts to any person on board - being first paid out of it, provided it does not amount to more than - one half the same. - - 11th. That on the death of the Captain, the command to devolve on - the next in command and so in rotation. - - 12th. That no one of said company shall sell any more than one half - his share or right of claim thereto of any prize previous to her - being taken. - - 13th. That the Captain and Officers shall appoint an agent of said - Vessel’s company for and during the term of the said cruise. - - 14th. That all and everyone of said Company do agree to serve on - board of said Vessel for the term of four months, conformable to the - terms herein mentioned, beginning the said term at the time of her - departure from the harbour of Bristol. - - 15th. That One Half of the Nett proceeds of all prizes taken by the - said Vessel which is appropriated to the Vessel’s Company shall be - divided among them in the following manner (viz) To the Captain - sixteen Shares and all such privileges and freedoms as are allowed - to the Captains of Private armed Vessels of War from this Port. - - To the First Lieutenant nine Shares. To the 2d and 3d Lieutenants - and Surgeon eight Shares each. Prize masters and Master’s Mate - and Captain of Marines six Shares each; Carpenter, Boatswain and - Gunner four Shares each. Boatswain’s Mates two and one half Shares - each. The residue to be divided among the Company in equal Shares - excepting Landsmen or raw hands who draw one and one half Shares - each, and boys who draw one Share each. Ten Shares to be reserved to - the order of the Captain to be distributed by him to such as he may - deem deserving among the Vessel’s Company. - -The Yankee was immediately and immensely successful. In this respect -she was unlike the other privateers of the “War of 1812.” It is a -mistake to suppose that the business of privateering was, as a rule, -a successful one. Most of the vessels engaged in it barely paid -their expenses. To very many the cruise resulted only in a loss. -Much depended on the sailing qualities of the ship, and the way -in which she was handled; but much more depended upon sheer luck. -The privateers, as a rule, did an enormous amount of damage to the -shipping of the enemy without reaping any corresponding advantage -themselves. The Yankee, however, not only inflicted enormous damage -upon the enemy but was also enormously profitable to her owners. - -Her officers on her first cruise were Oliver Wilson,[43] captain, and -Manly Sweet, James Usher, 2d, and Thomas H. Russell, lieutenants. -She carried a crew of 115 men (they must have been packed like -sardines), and made for the coast of Nova Scotia. One of her first -prizes was the Royal Bounty, a full rigged ship of 659 tons (about -four times the size of the Yankee, but manned by a crew of only 25 -men). The Bounty was taken after a running fight in which three -Americans were wounded, while two of the English were killed and -seven wounded. The boldness of Captain Wilson in attacking a vessel -so much larger than his own was remarkable, but the end justified his -conduct. As a rule the privateers avoided engagements with ships of -superior size, remembering that, primarily, their object was not to -fight battles for the glory of the flag, but to capture ships for -their own pecuniary advantage. They could and did fight bravely and -successfully upon occasion, but, ordinarily, deemed it wiser to show -their heels to a superior foe. Nine other prizes were taken on the -first cruise of less than three months, the most valuable of which -was the ship Francis whose cargo netted more than $200,000 to her -captors. That first cruise paid for the brigantine several times -over, and resulted in a dividend of more than $700 a share. - -Small wonder then that the Bristol sailors almost fought for a place -on her decks for her second cruise, when she sailed again from the -harbor on the fifteenth of October. The journal of that second cruise -is hereinafter published in full. Captain Wilson’s instructions this -time were to scour the west coast of Africa and to come home in the -track of vessels sailing to Europe from Brazil and the West Indies. -One hundred and fifteen days after the Yankee had sailed out from the -harbor two boys were “shinning up” the masts of two vessels tied up -at a wharf, in the good old Bristol way already described (p. 30). As -the victor in the contest placed his cap upon the cap of the topmast -he saw something which caused him, leaving his cap where it was, -to slide down mast and shroud regardless of damage to trousers and -hands, and to go running up the street crying out at the top of his -voice, “The Yankee is coming up the Bay with a prize on each side of -her.” It was even so. The prizes were the Shannon, a fine brig of 200 -tons, and the letter of marque schooner Alder. The dividend for each -share in the second cruise was $338.40. - -On May 10, 1813, the brigantine was commissioned for her third -cruise. Elisha Snow was her Captain. The Lieutenants were Thomas -Jones, Samuel Barton and George A. Bruce. British war vessels were -swarming along the coast. Captain Snow learned that a frigate and a -fourteen-gun brig were waiting for him near Block Island. Choosing -his time with care he sailed from Newport on May 20 and steered -joyfully for British waters. His instructions were to “take enough -prizes to make up a handsome cruise, calculating one-half the prizes -to be retaken.” Three months later he was again lying at anchor in -Bristol harbor. Seven prizes were taken on this cruise but most of -them were recaptured. The most important of them was the “snow” -Thames, of 312 tons burden, with 287 bales of cotton on board. Vessel -and cargo were valued at $110,000. The prize money for each share was -$173.54. - -The fourth cruise was almost a failure. A new set of officers was on -board. They were Thomas Jones, captain, and Thomas Milton, George -Eddy and Sampson Gullifer, lieutenants. All told there were 109 -persons on the ship. Among the crew we still see the names of Jack -Jibsheet and Cuffee Cockroach enumerated as cabin boys. They seem -to have been steadily attached to the vessel. Almost all the names -of the ship’s crew were British. It is very likely, however, that -the two cabin boys, notwithstanding their pure Anglo-Saxon names, -may have been of African lineage. The instructions this time were to -cruise “on the track of homeward bound vessels near the Grand Banks.” -Prizes were to make for Nantucket Shoals and to get into the first -port on the Vineyard Sound, avoiding Boston. But two prizes reached -port, and the dividend for each share was only $17.29. - -There was no competition for berths on the fifth cruise. Indeed, -some of the sailors swam ashore before the privateer left the harbor -of Bristol.[44] All the probabilities seemed to point rather to a -prison in England than a profit in America. Elisha Snow was again -in command. His Lieutenants were Samuel Barton, John Smith and -Francis Elliott. Thomas Jones, the captain of the voyage before, -was second captain. The cruise was not finished as planned because -the Yankee was driven into New Bedford by an English man-of-war and -the crew deserted almost to a man. Four prizes only were taken, -three of which were of no value whatever. But the fourth reached -Portland, Maine, in safety. She was a full rigged ship, the San Jose -Indiano,[45] and, with her cargo, sold for more than half a million -dollars. The voyage that had been undertaken with the greatest -hesitation was the most profitable of all. The two gentlemen of -color, Jibsheet and Cockroach, received respectively $738.19 and -$1,121.88 as their dividends. Captain Snow’s “lay” was $15,789.69, -and the owners realized $223,313.10. It was the luckiest cruise made -by any privateer during the war. Naturally resulted a season of -great hilarity in the home port. Imagine the effect upon a little -town of less than 3,000 inhabitants today if a million dollars were -suddenly and unexpectedly poured into the pockets of its people! -Notwithstanding the immense risks there were volunteers enough for -the sixth cruise--which was to be the last one. The sailing orders -for this cruise were issued October 1, 1814. - -Captain Snow had apparently decided to let well enough alone, for -William C. Jenckes was the new captain. The second captain was -Benjamin K. Churchill, “a fellow of infinite humor” as we shall -presently see. A. B. Hetherington, Henry Wardwell and Samuel Grafton -were the lieutenants. The times had become most strenuous as may -be judged from this section of the sailing directions: “You must -depend principally upon the goods you take on board to make your -cruise, as the prizes you man will be very uncertain.” In the private -instructions issued to Captain Jenckes special attention was paid to -the definition of “neutral” property. The American privateers had -inflicted so much damage upon English shipping that the merchants -of England had been forced to conceal their property under neutral -flags. The captain of the Yankee was instructed to send in a neutral -if he had destroyed any papers, or if he had fired upon him. “If -any one of a House shipping property resides in England, or in an -English colony, that share of the shipment is a good prize of war. -Notwithstanding he may have been born a neutral, and lived in a -neutral country all his life; if he is now domiciled in the enemy’s -country, it is sufficient to condemn his property.” The cruise lasted -105 days. Five prizes were taken and reported to the owners in a -letter written by Second Captain Churchill. Only one of these brought -money to their captors. This was the brig Courtney, which with its -cargo sold for $70,000. One was the General Wellesley, an East Indian -teak built ship of 600 tons, in which its captors at first thought -they saw a second San Jose Indiano. Her value was estimated at upward -of $200,000. She was ordered to make for the port of Charleston, S. -C., but, with two of her prize crew and 52 of her original crew of -Lascars, was lost on Charleston Bar. Captain Churchill ended his -letter as follows:--“P. S. I have lost one of my legs on this cruise.” - -Less than three years was the Yankee upon the seas as a private armed -vessel of war. In those years she captured British property of the -value of more than five million dollars. She sent into the town of -Bristol a million dollars as the profit from her six cruises. No -other privateer sailing from an American port ever established such -a record. - -In the year 1812 when to most men the shipping business seemed likely -to continue to be the most prominent in the country Mr. De Wolf -foresaw the immense development of manufacturing industries. In that -year he built in the town of Coventry, R. I., a site chosen because -of its water power, a cotton factory, the Arkwright Mills. These he -continued to own and direct until his death. As has been already -stated he placed some of his vessels in the whale fishery, continuing -in that business only as long as his ships made profitable voyages. -He seemed to judge unerringly concerning business possibilities. All -this time he was cultivating the arable portion of the nearly one -thousand acres of land which he owned in and near Bristol. He built -for himself a stately mansion, on a little hill always spoken of by -Bristol people as “The Mount,” in which his descendants continued to -reside until its destruction by fire a few years ago. - -Inevitably he came to take a leading part in political matters. For -almost thirty years he represented his native town in the Rhode -Island Legislature, laying aside the gavel of the Speaker of that -body in 1821 to become a member of the United States Senate. As a -Senator his immense business experience made him the recognized -authority in commercial matters. He was a strong “protectionist” -and was the first in the Senate to propose the “drawback” system -which has since been so largely adopted in the United States and -elsewhere. He was one of the few Senators, perhaps the only one from -New England, who were accustomed to ride to Washington in their own -coaches. Happily this relic of the luxury of a hundred years ago -still remains in the possession of a descendant of Mark Anthony De -Wolf, Colonel Samuel Pomeroy Colt of Bristol. Mr. De Wolf’s life at -Washington was not pleasing to him. The progress of Congressional -legislation was too slow for his active mind, and his constantly -increasing business demanded all of his attention. He therefore -resigned from the United States Senate long before his term expired -and joyfully resumed his old position as a representative of Bristol -in the Legislature of Rhode Island. - -James De Wolf died at the residence of one of his daughters in New -York City, December 21, 1837. The tidings of his death crushed the -town in which he was born. No man had ever done so much for Bristol -as he. He had always made its welfare his own, had loyally advocated -every scheme for its advancement, had gladly contributed to every -worthy project put forward by its people. When he died there was no -one to take his place. Never was any Bristolian more sincerely or -more deeply mourned. - - -2--JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE - -JOURNAL OF THE PRIVATE ARMED BRIGANTINE YANKEE, OLIVER WILSON -COMMANDER--COMMENCED ON THE 15TH OCTOBER, 1812. - -(Kept by Noah Jones, Captain’s Clerk). - - -Thursday, 15th October, 1812. - -At 4 p. m. Capt. Wilson, accompanied by his Lieutenants, Master, -Surgeon and Clerk, came on board. All hands were piped to muster, and -on inspection the Commander found his crew consisted of ninety-five -as prime fellows as ever went to sea. - -N. B. The _Yankee_ is completely equipped with arms, ammunition, -provisions and other necessary articles for a six months cruise. She -mounts 14 guns at present--8 twelve pound carronades, 4 long sixes, -and two long fours--has one long double-fortified twelve pounder (a -beautiful piece) in her hold, to be hereafter mounted,--with 60 stand -of arms and a large quantity of pistols, cutlashes and boarding pikes. - - -Friday, 16th October 1812 - -The Commander quartered the officers and seamen at their several -stations in time of action, regulated the Messes, fixed the allowance -of provisions, water, etc., ordered a regular Bill of Fare, and -pointed out to every officer and man his duty on board the _Yankee_. -At 9 a. m. Lieutenant Hardiman of the Army came on board to enquire -for a deserter. Capt. Wilson immediately ordered the Boatswain’s -Mate to pipe all hands on deck and requested Lieutenant Hardiman to -examine them man by man, to discover his deserter. He did so without -success. - -At 2 p. m. the wind coming suddenly round to the N. W. Captain Wilson -gave orders to loose the foretopsail, send up the foretop-gallant -yard, fire a gun, and set the signals for sailing. At 4 the wind -shifted to the N. E.--dark and cloudy with appearance of bad weather. -At 5 clewed up the foretopsail and got the barge in upon deck. - - -Saturday, 17th October 1812 - -At daylight sailing orders were issued by the Commander. Loosed -square foresail, foretopsail and mainsail, fired gun, and set our -colours. At 6 a. m. unmoored and got underway; when abeam of the -Private Armed Schooner _Tom_ of Baltimore, Thomas Wilson Commander, -the officers and company of the _Yankee_ gave them three cheers which -was immediately returned. Fired a salute of three guns as we passed -Fort Walcott. Wind N. N. W. fair weather and extremely pleasant. At 7 -passed R. I. Light. At ½ past 7 gibed ship to the S. S. E.--set all -drawing sails--considerable swell. At ½ past 9 a. m. Block Island -bore west, distant 5 leagues;--from which we take our departure on -our cruise. At meridian discovered a sail at a great distance--could -not distinguish what she was. Lat. 40°56′. - - -1st Day--Sunday 18th October 1812 - -First part light winds and hazy weather. 2 p. m. discovered a -schooner ahead standing to the westward. At 3 saw a large ship, -also standing to the westward. At 4 p. m. piped all hands to -quarters and exercised the seamen and marines at the great guns and -small arms. The Commander found them well disciplined and fit for -immediate service. 5 a. m. discovered a sail 2 points on the lee -bow. Took in the studding sails on the stabbord side and hauled up -to the eastward. 6.30 a. m. saw another sail right ahead; took in -larboard studding sails and royal, and brought her close upon the -wind--heading N. E. At 9 a. m. having lost sight of the sail kept -away to the S. E. and set studding sails. Latter part gentle breezes -and hazy weather. At meridian no sail in sight. Course S. E. b S. -Lat. Obs. 39°51′. - - (For several days the Journal chronicles mainly the condition of the - weather and the necessary changes in the sails. The fact was quickly - established that the vessel was “perfectly staunch and strong - and a most excellent sea boat.” The brigantine was always a most - remarkable sailor. She answered the helm readily and scudded over - the waves while other vessels were still courting the capricious - winds. After the war, when she was simply a merchant vessel plying - between Bristol and the Island of Cuba, she made some runs between - the Moro and Block Island light in shorter time than that scheduled - for the regular trips of the steamship lines. With a man o’ war’s - crew to handle her, her speed must have been marvellous. Only the - more important portions of the Journal will henceforth be printed. - The total number of persons on board when the “Muster Roll” was - called on the second day was one hundred.--_Ed._) - - -2d Day--Monday October 19th - -The log ends with the following paragraph. “The Surgeon has been much -indisposed with seasickness since he left Newport. He finds the best -remedy to be sleep. There is only one person (John Briggs) with a -sore thumb on the Surgeon’s list.” - - (Apparently an epidemic of sore thumbs had been feared.--_Ed._) - - -3d Day--Tuesday October 20th - -.... 7 p. m. Shipped a heavy sea abaft the beam which stove in all -three of the Arm Chests, and capsized the musquets, bayonets, -cutlashes, pistols, armourer’s tools etc. into the lee scuppers. The -Carpenter repaired the damage as soon as possible and replaced the -arms.... No sail in sight.... The Surgeon still indisposed. John -Briggs and the Cook on the Doctor’s list. Lat. Obs. 36°15′. - - -4th Day--Wednesday October 21st - -.... The officers of Marines, Armourer and his mates busy in cleaning -arms from the rust contracted during the bad weather, oiling them, -and stowing them in the arm-chests in good order. John Briggs, Cyrus -Simmons and Ned Ingraham on the Doctor’s list. - - -5th Day--Thursday October 22d - -.... At 4 p. m. all hands piped to quarters. The Commander again -pointed out to every man his station; appointed Lieutenants Barton -and Jones to lead the 1st and 2d Divisions of Boarders, and -distributed the swords, cutlashes and pistols among the seamen. The -officers then exercised the seamen and marines at the great guns and -small arms, going through the usual manouvres during an engagement. -After which all hands were summoned aft and the Commander read over -certain Instructions regulating, under severe penalties, the conduct -of the officers and crew, upon all occasions, particularly in time -of action, or when on board an enemy’s vessel.... The Surgeon still -indisposed and ate no dinner. Briggs, Simmons, Ingraham and Angell on -the Doctor’s list with trifling complaints. Lat. Obs. 35°24′. - - (From this time forward Lieut. Barton is very much in the - foreground. He was a near relative of Col. Barton of “The Rhode - Island Line,” who in the Revolutionary War had distinguished himself - by his daring capture of the British General Prescott within the - Enemy’s lines. It goes without saying, therefore, that he was quite - devoid of fear. In after life he still followed the sea even though - he had become extremely corpulent and had acquired an abdominal - development which compelled universal attention if not admiration. - Once he was chased by a French Privateer. A shot which happened to - strike the ship’s cat scattered her entrails all over the deck. The - cabin boy cast a startled glance at the dead cat, then looked at his - Captain and was immediately doubled up with laughter. “Well,” said - the Captain, “what are you laughing about now?” “Nothing,” said the - boy, “only I was thinking what an awful mess there would be if one - of those balls should strike you in the belly.”--_Ed._) - - -6th Day Friday October 23d - -.... At 6 a. m. the man at the mast head called out a sail bearing -N. b E. distant about two leagues. 6.30 a. m. piped all hands to -quarters, loosed the guns, and cleared for action. 7.20 a. m. fired -a gun without shot, upon which the sail hove to.... At 8 a. m. ran -under the lee of a large copper-bottomed American ship and sent the -barge on board. Found her to be the _Ariadne_ of Boston, Captain -Bartlett Holmes, from Alexandria bound to Cadiz with a full cargo -of flour, 17 days out. Capt. Holmes informed us that on the 11th -inst. he was boarded by an officer from the United States, Commodore -Decatur. (The _President_, _Congress_ and _Argus_ were in company -standing to the eastward.) The _Ariadne’s_ crew having mutinied Capt. -Holmes requested Com. Decatur to take four of the ringleaders on -board the frigate, which he did accordingly. Capt. H. mentioned that -his ship had sprung a leak, and being short handed, with a disorderly -mutinous crew, he was bound home again in distress. The Commander put -a letter on board, directed to the owners, informing them of the good -health and spirits of the crew, and our situation in Lat. 25° N. and -Long. 56° W.... - - -7th Day Saturday 24th Oct. - -.... Lat. 36°9′ ... - - -8th Day Sunday 25th Oct. - -.... Briggs, Simmons, Lewis and Angell on the Surgeon’s list with -light complaints. Lat. Obs. 35°15′. Long. pr, lunar Obs. at 12 -Meridian 53°3′. - - -9th Day Monday 26th Oct. - -Fair weather with strong gales from the westward. Scudding before -the wind under square-foresail, fore topsail and foretopmast -staysail. At 5 p. m. discovered from the deck (owing to the -negligence of the man at the foretop) two large sail in our -wake, distant about three leagues, standing after us with their -topgallant sails up. Immediately hauled up to the S. E. and set -square-foresail, single-reefed mainsail and fore and aft foresail. -The sails astern frequently luffed up and yawned off and when we -saw them last stood to the N. E.... Frequent squalls with rain and -a tremendous sea. Course S. E. b E. under three-reefed mainsail -close-reefed square-foresail, and double-reefed foretopsail, with the -foretopmast-staysail. Same persons on the Surgeon’s list. Shipped -a great deal of water upon deck, the comins of the sea frequently -coming on board and penetrating every part of the vessel. Lat. 34°40′. - - -10th Day Tuesday 27th Oct. - -.... No sail in sight and nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 33°26′. N. -B. It is something singular that since we left port we have had only -one pleasant day. There has been a continual succession of gales of -wind from all parts of the compass, attended with torrents of rain, -squalls, whirlwinds, thunder and lightning, and a tremendous sea -frequently breaking on board and occasioning considerable damage; -carrying away several spars and staving the arm-chests. Indeed it may -be said that our vessel has sailed thus far under but not over the -Atlantic Ocean. - - -11th Day Wednesday 28th Oct. - -.... Middle and latter part of the day stiff gales with a high sea. -Shipped a great deal of water upon deck. Lat. Obs. 32°5′. - - -12th Day Thursday 29th Oct. - -During these 24 hours strong gales with frequent squalls of wind and -rain, and a very high sea frequently breaking on board. Lat. Obs. -30°27′. Lunar Obs. at 23 M. past Meridian 41°55′41″. Cyrus Simmons, -John Briggs, Amos A. Allen, James Angell, Ebenezer Byrum and William -Redding on the Surgeon’s list. - - -13th Day Friday 30th Oct. - -(A delightful change.) At meridian the weather began to moderate. -1 p. m. fair weather with a clear horizon and the sea going down. -Let all the reefs out of the mainsail and square-foresail, sent up -maintopmast, rigged out the jib-boom and set the jib. At 9 p. m. took -a single reef in the fore-topsail and mainsail. During the night -fresh breezes and clear weather. Lat. Obs. 28°43′. Long. per Lunar -Obs. at 18 m. past 10--40°11′. - - -14th Day Saturday 31st Oct. - -Lat. 29° N. & Long. 40°20′ W. At 6 a. m. discovered a sail from the -masthead at a great distance bearing W. S. W. Light breezes from the -north inclining to a calm. Piped all hands upon deck, set all drawing -sails, in chase and got out the sweeps. 9 a. m. found we came up -rapidly with the chase which appeared to be a brig standing to the S. -W. At meridian spoke the Portuguese Brig _Henriette_, Capt. Jenkins, -from Madeira, 18 days out, in ballast, bound to Philadelphia. Capt. -Jenkins informed us that on the 21st he spoke an American ship and -brig bound home; on the 22d he was boarded by an officer from a -British Frigate. Captain Jenkins left at Madeira several American -vessels bound home with full cargoes; also two English ships loading -with wine for the West Indies. Shortly before Capt. Jenkins left -Madeira an English brig loaded with wine sailed for the West Indies, -likewise three English East Indiamen with full cargoes, under the -convoy of a British Frigate as far as Palmas. There were no King’s -vessels at Madeira. An American Privateer, owned at New Orleans, was -cruising off Madeira and had taken several prizes!! Capt. Jenkins -being short of bread our Commander supplied him with this necessary -article, and received in return some vinegar, fish and fruit. -Permitted the _Henriette_ to proceed.... Lat. Obs. 27°40′. (Wrote a -letter to the Owners by the _Henriette_, Capt. Jenkins, informing -them of our situation and of the good health of our Officers and -Company.) - - -15th Day Sunday 1st Nov. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 27°14′ N. Long. 38°28′ W. - - -16th Day Monday 2d Nov. - -At 4 p. m. piped all hands to quarters and the Officers examined them -man by man, to discover whether they were neat and clean in their -persons and dress--according to the Commander’s instructions--to -prevent fevers and the scurvy during a long cruise. The crew -were then summoned aft, and the Captain’s Clerk read the General -Instructions to the Officers and Company, regulating their conduct -upon all occasions during the cruise. From 8 a. m. till 4 p. m. the -Watches employed about ship’s duty; the Carpenter and his Mates busy -about making new arm-chests; sail-makers in repairing ring-tale; -Officers of Marines and Armorer in cleaning arms, and numbering -muskets and cartridge boxes, and seamen and marines in mending -rigging, drying sails, and other necessary duty.... The Surgeon is -quite indisposed with the headache, loss of appetite and low spirits. -Lat. Obs. 20°16′. - - -17th Day Tuesday 3d Nov. - -.... The watch only employed on ship’s duty. Samuel Boynton and Ned -Ingraham on the Surgeon’s list. Lat. Obs. 25°3′. - - -18th Day Wednesday 4th Nov. - -.... Several tropic birds in sight.... The Prize-Master, -Quartermaster’s Mates, inferior officers and nearly all hands busy -in repairing the nettings, bulwarks and side-cloths.... Lat. Obs. -23°44′ (The Commander issued particular written instructions to his -Officers, prescribing their respective duties upon all occasions -during the cruise. These instructions were drawn according to the -customs and usages of the British and American navies.) - - -19th Day Thursday 5th Nov. - -At sunrise discovered a sail bearing 2 points on the larboard bow. -Jibed ship to the E. N. E. and set all drawing sails in chase. At -8 a. m. found the strange vessel to be a brig with her starboard -tacks on board, standing to the westward. 9 a. m. fired a gun to -windward, upon which the sail luffed up and showed Spanish colours, -and then bore down to us. Took in all the light sails and then hove -to. At 10 a. m. the sail came under our lee and we sent our barge on -board. Found her to be the Spanish _San Jose_, _alias_ _El Pajaro_, -Captain Miguel Burgas, from Cadiz, 20 days out, with a full cargo of -red wines, aguadiente, fruit, sweet oil, soaps, olives, stationary, -(_sic_) musical instruments and ladies’ veils. When two days out -Capt. Burgas saw a Spanish schooner standing for the Canaries. The -_San Jose_ left at Cadiz several American vessels bound to sea under -Spanish colours; also several English men of war, and transports. -Capt. Burgas informed us that on the 25th of August the French army -raised the siege of Cadiz, and retreated with great expedition, -having previously destroyed their artillery. It was reported at -Cadiz that there had been several skirmishes between the French and -Russian armies but no decisive battle. Having examined the papers -of the _San Jose_, and found the vessel and cargo to be _bona fide_ -Spanish property, permitted her to proceed on her voyage.... Lat. -Obs. 22°49′. Long. D. R. 20°57′ San Jose Long. 25 d. Cadiz. Surgeon’s -list. James Angell, Cyrus Simmons, John Briggs, Samuel Boynton, -Joseph Lewis and John Koster. - - -20th Day Friday 6th Nov. - -At 1 p. m. being in Lat. 22°49′, the Crew of the _Yankee_ preparing -to celebrate Old Neptune’s ceremonies on passing the Tropics. -Accordingly the old Sea God, attended by his Lady, barbers and -constables, dressed in the most fantastic manner, with painted -faces, and swabs upon their heads, hailed our brig, came on board, -were received with a salute and three cheers, demanded of Captain -Wilson whether he had any of his sons on board, and welcomed the -_Yankee_ into his dominions. On being answered in the affirmative -he asked permission to initiate the marines and raw hands into the -usual mysteries on such occasions. He then examined the Surgeon and -being convinced that he came to sea to take care of his children -when they were sick, he excused him from being shaved with an iron -hoop, and from passing through the other disagreeable parts of the -ceremony. After which Neptune and his companions went forward and -regularly initiated about one fourth of our crew into all the curious -forms requisite to make them true sons of the ocean. The several -candidates for a seaman’s character were properly painted, slushed, -shaved, ducked, questioned and sworn. Their singular questions and -answers excited infinite laughter and merriment. After the ceremony -concluded, the Commander, Officers and whole crew joined in a Ducking -match, which aided in great good humour and pleasantry. The remainder -of the day and evening were devoted to fencing, boxing, wrestling, -singing, drinking, laughing, and every species of mirth and fun. Lat. -Obs. 21°58′. - - -21st Day Saturday 7th Nov. - -.... Nothing remarkable.... Same persons on Surgeon’s list. Lat. Obs. -21°34′. - - -22d Day Sunday 8th Nov. - -.... Cleaned out the cabin and got all the baggage and trunks on -deck. Examined the Officers and crew, man by man, and found them neat -and clean. At 10 a. m. the Commander and Officers attended prayers in -the cabin. The Marines employed in singing psalms and the sailors in -washing and mending their clothes. Lat. Obs. 21°16′. Lunar Obs. at -5-20 was 31°17′. Same persons on the Surgeon’s list. - - -23d Day Monday 9th Nov. - -.... James Angell, Cyrus Simmons, John Briggs, Samuel Boynton, -Joseph Lewis, John Koster and James Crawford on the Surgeon’s list -with various complaints--none dangerous. Lat. 20°4′. A singular -circumstance occurred to day. On opening a dolphin which one of the -Prize-Masters caught we found a pistol ball in him which had been -discharged about an hour before. - - -24th Day Tuesday 10th Nov. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 20°19′. - - -25th Day Wednesday 11th Nov. - -.... At 10 a. m. all hands were exercised in firing with the musket -at a target. Found most of the crew to be excellent marksmen.... -Observed the water to be considerably colored. Sounded with 100 -fathoms. No bottom. Lat. Obs. 19°11′. Same persons on Surgeon’s list; -none incapable of duty. - - -26th Day Thursday 12th Nov. - -.... At 4 p. m. the Marines trained to the Manual Exercise; also -to several new manouvres _a la mode de Francais_. The Boarders -amuse themselves with fencing and the rest of the crew act as -spectators.... Lat. Obs. 18°19′. Long. per Lunar Obs. at 2 p. m. -28°53′30″. Crawford and Koster struck off the Surgeon’s list. The -rest recovering fast. - - -27th Day Friday 13th Nov. - -.... At 4 p. m. the Commander exercised the Officers,--and the -Captain of Marines his men and the Boarders,--to the use of the -musket according to the French system of loading and firing without -using the ramrod.... At ½ past 11 a. m. Captain Wilson called out -“Land ho! right ahead!!” ... At meridian found the land to be, by an -observation of the sun, the Island of St. Anthony, one of the Cape -de Verds, situated in Lat. N. 17°20′ and 24°59′ W. Long. Lat. Obs. -17°15′. The island bore when first we made it S. E. b E.--distant -about 5 miles. Cyrus Simmons, James Angell, James Thomas, Watson -Morris, Aaron Mason, Samuel Boynton and Ned Ingraham on the Surgeon’s -list; none incapable of duty. On examination the Commander finds -Master Snow’s lunar observations to be very correct, and that the -dead reckoning could not be depended on. THUS in 27 days we have run -a distance of 3,500 miles, notwithstanding occasional head winds and -a great deal of light calm weather. Nothing very remarkable occurred -during our passage. - - -28th Day Saturday 14th Nov. - -(Variable winds and frequent changing of sails. Strong gales and -heavy squalls). No land in sight. Lat. Obs. 16°20′. - - -29th Day Sunday 15th Nov. - -(Sighted several of the Cape Verde Islands) Hazy weather and frequent -squalls. Made and took in sail occasionally. Lat Obs. 16°21′. - - -30th Day Monday 15th [sic] Nov. - -Fresh breezes and cloudy weather. At 4 p. m. came to in a wide bay at -the south end of the Island of St. Nicholas; out with the barge and -the Commander, Surgeon and Captain of Marines went on shore unarmed. -Found the Island to be mountainous, barren and uncultivated. Saw only -a few small huts near the shore inhabited by blacks who led us to a -well of water, brackish and sulphurous. They told us we could fill -only three barrels a day, and that there was no anchorage except -within cable length of this iron bound coast. We saw the wreck of -a large armed ship which was cast away there a short time before. -They informed us there was a town or village two leagues distant, -situated in a fine valley producing corn, grapes, fruits, etc., where -the Governor resided, but that wood and provisions were very dear. -Capt. Wilson therefore concluded it would not be advisable to anchor -there, purchased a few pigs, returned on board, and set sail with a -fair wind for the Island of St. Jago.... At meridian having run down -the west side of the Isle of May, and looked into the port where -there were only two small Portuguese boats, we wore ship and stood -over for St. Jago. The Isle of May appears more fertile than any of -the Cape de Verdes we have seen yet. Habitations are scattered over -every part of the Island and salt works appear along the beach. There -is a small town composed of 15 or 20 houses at the south end of the -Island but no fortifications that we could discover. Isle of May Lat. -S. W. pt. 15°4′ N. Long. 22°46′ W. Joseph Antony, Henry Mitchell, and -George Schoonerson added to the Surgeon’s list. - - -31st Day Tuesday 17th Nov. - -The Officers and Company feasted most sumptuously on the pigs they -bought at St. Nicholas. At 1 p. m. came to anchor in the harbour of -Port Praya, Island of St. Jago. We ran from the Isle of May to that -place in 1¾ hours, a distance of 30 miles, having a fine breeze from -the N. N. E. and all sails set. At 2 p. m. the Commander, attended -by his Surgeon and Clerk, went on shore. He reported himself to the -Governor-General and Intendant as the Armed American Brig _Yankee_, -and requested permission to obtain a supply of water, wood and -fresh provisions. This permission was immediately granted, and the -Governor expressed much satisfaction, and some degree of surprise, -at seeing an American armed vessel in this distant part of the -world. He inquired very particularly concerning the events of the war -between America and England, and regretted that this circumstance -had deprived these islands of the American commerce. He said they -were in great want of flour, bread, rice, etc., and offered a supply -of every article our vessel wanted in return for those articles. He -informed us no English vessel had touched at this island for some -weeks past, but that there was an old British brig on the south -side of St. Anthony loading with salt for the Brazils. The Governor -further mentioned that the Private Armed American Ship called the -_Alfred_, Captain Williams, touched at this island a short time since -and obtained a supply of water and provisions. The _Alfred_ had taken -and manned two valuable prizes, and was then bound on a long cruise. -On taking leave the General told Capt. Wilson that he should expect -the customary salute which would be returned. 6 p. m. the barge -returned on board. At 8 a. m. we fired a regular United States salute -of 17 guns which was immediately returned by an equal number from the -town. Part of the Officers and men employed in filling water and the -remainder about ship’s duty. - - -32d Day Wednesday 18th Nov. - -4 p. m. got all our water on board. 8 a. m. the Intendant-General, -Dr. Madina, came on board with the Governor-General’s compliments on -our arrival. He remained and took breakfast with us, and appeared -pleased with the appearance of the _Yankee_. 9 a. m. Capt. Wilson -went on shore with part of the crew and such articles as he had -agreed to exchange for fresh provisions. On examining the Intendant’s -book of entries find that two English brigs from London, bound to -the Cape of Good Hope, touched here for water on the 29th ult. and -also the Sloop of War _Morjiana_, Capt. Georges, with despatches for -the same place. The Officers and Company have caught a great quantity -of fish of different kinds since we came to anchor.... William -Redding and Preserved Atwood added to the Surgeon’s list. - - -33d Day Thursday 19th Nov. - -First part of these 24 hours got all our wood and fresh stock on -board. The Commander and several of his Officers dined with the -Intendant. At ½ past 9 p. m. they returned on board. Immediately got -under way with a fresh breeze.... N. B. The harbour of Port Praya -is spacious, secure and of easy entrance, with good anchorage in 10 -fathoms water. The town, also called Praya, is situated on the top -of a mountain, or rock, and encloses an extensive plain, the houses -forming nearly a circle. There is a small stone church and four -other decent buildings. Both the port and town are well fortified, -mounting at least 70 pieces of cannon. The garrison however is most -miserable, being composed entirely of blacks without discipline, -arms, or even decent clothing. It is a singular fact that most of -their musquets are without locks. We have not the least hesitation -in saying that with thirty men we might have surprised and taken -the town. The officers of the _Yankee_ feel much gratified with the -politeness and attentions they received from the Governor General Don -Antonine Cortine Del Ancastra, and from the Intendant De Madina. They -have obtained a sufficient supply of wood and water for at least two -months, and as much live stock and fruits as they wished to take on -board. These articles were purchased at a small expense. Port Praya -Lat. 14°52′ N. Long. 23°30′ W. Same persons on the Surgeon’s list. - - -34th Day Friday 20th Nov. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 14°37′. - - -35th Day Saturday 21st Nov. - -.... No sail or land in sight. Lat. Obs. 14°22′. - - -36th Day Sunday 22d Nov. - -(Cape Verds again in sight). Lat. Obs. 14°26′. Surgeon’s list--James -Thomas, Lemuel Baker, George Gunnerson, John Briggs, Lyman Peck, Asa -Switchell, William Redding, Ned Ingraham, Joseph Lewis, James Angell -and Gibsheet. None disabled from duty but Redding. - - -37th Day Monday 23d Nov. - -½ past meridian the Island of Goree hove in sight distant about 2 -leagues to windward. 1 p. m. saw a schooner under full sail standing -out of Goree harbour towards us. Piped all hands to quarters. 2 p. m. -the schooner tacked to windward; immediately tacked ship and set all -sail in chase. At 3 passed within 5 miles of Goree.[46] Discovered -a large English Brig and several small craft at anchor under the -fort.... Finding we came up rapidly with the chase, and believing -her to be an armed vessel, again piped all hands to quarters and -cleared for action. 9 p. m. hoisted a light on our fore rigging, and -discharged several muskets as a signal for the chase to heave to; not -obeying these signals fired a shot under her stern; still continuing -her course fired one of the bow guns, well loaded, directly into -her; upon which she immediately bore away, and ran down close -under our lee. As she passed us Capt. Wilson hailed her with the -usual questions, and by the answers found her to be “His Britannic -Majesty’s Schooner _St. Jago_, from Goree bound to Senegal.” After -which the British Commander hailed us and was told we were “The Armed -American Brig _Yankee_”; after which he demanded “How we dared to -fire into His Majesty’s schooner and ordered us to send our boat on -board.” Captain Wilson replied “I will not, strike your colours or -I will sink you.” Instantly His Britannic Majesty’s Schooner wore -upon her keel, and luffed up close on the wind, to prepare (as we -supposed) for action. Not thinking it advisable to engage a King’s -vessel, without knowing her force, at close quarters during a dark -night, we resolved to wait until daylight, and therefore stood -after her under easy sail. At 11 p. m. the _St. Jago_ fired a shot -which passed over us; we returned the compliment by giving him Long -Tom--doubly charged with round and langrage. We thus returned shot -for shot until 1 p. m., when the Commander and Officers thinking it -inadvisable to engage a government vessel, where we should only get -hard blows, and probably lose some spars and men, ordered the Master -to make sail and stand to the W. S. W. to deceive the Enemy as to our -cruising station. At 2 p. m. lost sight of him astern. The Officers -and men remained at quarters upwards of 5 hours and displayed great -resolution and courage.... Lat. Obs. 14°2′. - - -38th Day Tuesday 24th Nov. - -.... Land in sight.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 11°40′. - - -39th Day Wednesday 25th Nov. - -.... At 4 p. m. Edward James, one of the seamen, received 12 lashes, -in the main rigging, in presence of the whole crew, as a punishment -for stealing a shirt from one of the Marines.[47] John Koster struck -off the Surgeon’s list--the other invalids recovering fast--none -incapable of duty. Lat. Obs. 8°53′. - - -40th Day Thursday 26th Nov. - -.... Nothing remarkable.... No Obs. - - -41st Day Friday 27th Nov. - -.... At 6 a. m. Jonathan Whitmarsh saw a sail bearing N. b E. distant -about 3 leagues. Set all sail in chase.... 7 a. m. discovered the -sail to be a sloop.... 9 a. m. piped all hands to Quarters. 10 a. m. -cleared for action and fired a gun without shot, upon which the sail -bore down for us. 10.30 she came under our lee with English colours -flying at her main peak. Captain Wilson hailed her and ordered her -to strike her colours instantly, which she did accordingly. Sent -the barge on board. Found her to be the Sloop _Mary Ann_ of London, -Stewart Sutherland, Master, 70 & 21/95 tons burden, copper-bottomed, -armed with 4 carriage guns and navigated by 9 persons, trading upon -the coast, with a cargo of sundries. She was last from Dick’s Cove, -bound to Sierra Leone. Upon examining the _Mary Ann_ and cargo it -was not advisable to send her as a prize to America, but to take -out of her the most valuable part of her cargo and then set her on -fire. Accordingly we received on board the _Yankee_ a quantity of -gold dust (value unknown), some ivory, trade muskets, a few Calcutta -goods, and sundry small articles of no great value. We then set fire -to the _Mary Ann_ and made sail on our course. The probable value -of the _Mary Ann_ and her cargo might be $12,000. Lat. Obs. 7°29′ -N. Surgeon’s list James Angell, George Gunnerson, Asa Switchell, -Joseph Butman, Anson A. Allen, John Briggs, & Samuel Boynton. Slight -complaints, none disabled from duty. The weather becomes remarkably -hot, with almost continual calms, light winds, thunder, lightning and -rain. - - -42d Day Saturday 28th Nov. - -.... All hands employed in stowing away the ivory.... Lat. Obs. 7°33′. - - -43d Day Sunday 29th Nov. - -.... Nothing remarkable.... Invalids recovering fast.... Lat. Obs. -7°13′. - - -44th Day Monday 30th Nov. - -.... Nothing remarkable.... (Sail sighted but lost) Lat. Obs. 6°47′. -The weather becomes insufferably hot. Almost continual calms, with a -vertical sun. - - -45th Day out--1st Dec. 1812 - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 6°45′. - - -46th Day Wednesday 2d Dec. - -.... At 7 a. m. Abner Midget saw a sail right ahead distant about -5 leagues. Got out all the sweeps. 8 a. m. observed several water -spouts under the lee--squally with flying clouds and rain. At 11 made -out the chase to be a schooner standing to the eastward. At meridian -still in chase of the schooner distant about 2 leagues. Lat. Obs. -6°55′. - - -47th Day Thursday 3d Dec. - -At meridian continued in chase of the sail ahead. ½ past 12 got out -the boats to assist the sweeps by towing. Found we came up rapidly -with the chase. 2 p. m. fired a gun; hoisted English colours; not -answered. ½ past 2 p. m. gave her a gun, upon which the chase showed -English colours. 3 p. m. being distant about 1½ miles hoisted -American colours and commenced firing Long Tom, towing the Brig all -the time with the boats. 4 p. m. got the boats astern, piped all -hands to Quarters and cleared for action. Light airs and a smooth -sea. Being now within good gun shot commenced a brisk cannonade on -the starboard side. The chase returned the fire with 4 guns, the shot -frequently falling near and one shot wounding the jib. At 20 minutes -past 4 p. m. the Enemy fired a stern-chaser, double-charged, and -instantly blew up, occasioning a tremendous explosion. Observed the -Enemy to be on fire and several men swimming alongside. Immediately -ceased firing (although her colours were still flying) and sent out -boats with Lieut. Barton and Master Snow on board to save the lives -of the Enemy, and extinguish the fire. They took up the swimmers -and then rowed alongside. The scene that now presented itself to -their view was shocking beyond description. The vessel was still -in flames, the quarter-deck was blown off, the Captain was found -near the mainmast--naked, mangled and burnt in the most shocking -manner, one of the seamen lay near bruised and burnt almost as bad, a -black man was found dead on the cabin floor, and five others around -him apparently dying. All these wounded men were sent on board -the _Yankee_ and there received every possible attention from the -Captain, Surgeon and Officers. Dr. Miller dressed their wounds and -gave them the proper medicines but found the Captain and several of -the blacks in a most dangerous condition. The Captain had received -two deep wounds in the head which penetrated to the skull (probably -from our langrage shot), his arms and legs were much bruised, his -skin nearly all burnt off and his whole system greatly injured by the -concussion. A small black boy had a most singular yet distressing -appearance. This boy was literally blown out of his skin and for some -time after he came on board we thought he was white. The sufferings -of these poor fellows seemed very painful and excruciating. Lieut. -Barton extinguished the fire, sent all the prisoners on board -together with a boatload of sundry articles taken out of the cabin -which had not been consumed. Finding the prize no ways injured except -in her quarter deck the Commander ordered Lieut. Barton with a chosen -crew to remain on board and to keep company with us during the night. -On examination of the Schooner’s papers and log-book we found her to -be the _Letter of Marque_ Schooner called _The Alder_ of Liverpool, -(owned by Charles B. Whitehead) formerly called _La Clarisse_ and -taken from the French, commanded by Edward Crowley, 77 tons burthen, -mounting 4 carriage guns, and navigated by 10 men, besides 11 African -crewmen. She left Sierra Leone 9 days ago bound to the Leeward on -a trading voyage, with an assorted cargo of Bafts,[48] gunpowder, -muskets, bar-lead & iron, beads, flints and sundries. The _Adler_ -appears to be about 4 years old, is copper-bottomed, measures 67 -feet in length, but her sails are very poor and she does not sail -well. The probable value of this prize in America might be $5000; but -her nett value could not exceed $3000. At 8 p. m. one of the black -seamen died and was thrown overboard. 25 minutes past 2 a. m. Captain -Crowley notwithstanding every medical assistance departed this life -in the greatest agony. For some hours previous to his dissolution -he appeared to suffer excruciating torments and when informed of his -approaching end did not seem sensible of his situation. His body was -committed to the waves with as much decency as was practicable. At 9 -a. m. the boy before mentioned also died and had a watery grave. The -white seamen and three other blacks are just wavering between life -and death and we fear can not recover. - -The Boatswain related to us the accident which led to the horrid -catastrophy. He said the Captain stood at the helm steering the -vessel and giving his orders; that himself and several of the seamen -were stationed at the gun aft; that the instant it was discharged -the gun capsized with great violence, broke one of the quarter deck -planks, threw the wadd--all on fire--directly into the magazine -which was situated abaft the cabin, and the vessel instantly blew -up. (Himself and another seaman leaped into the sea when they saw -the gun dismounted and thus saved themselves.) It is supposed the -Captain was thrown from the helm into the air and then fell into -the main rigging. The blacks who were so dreadfully mangled were in -the magazine filling cartridges. Sent the carpenter with materials -to repair the prize. At 4 a. m. came on one of the most tremendous -tornadoes ever witnessed. It blew, rained, thundered and lightened in -a truly terrific manner. Took in all sail and kept the vessel before -it. The lightning was unusually vivid and struck several times close -on board. Having no conductor every mind was filled with apprehension -and alarm. Latter part very light airs inclining to calm. The -prisoners inform us there are several vessels of war at Sierra Leone, -to wit, a new frigate, 2 sloops of war, a gun-brig, and several -smaller vessels, all bound out on a cruise. They also tell us of two -fine brigs which lately sailed from that place and are trading to the -leeward--one of them owned by the late Captain of the _Alder_. The -_Alder_ has several shot in her sails, rigging, boat, etc. but none -in her hull.[49] Our invalids recovering fast. They all appeared at -quarters except Goff who had a large swelling on his right arm. Lat. -Obs. 5°53′. - - -48th Day Friday 4th Dec. - -During the greater part of these 24 hours calm with occasional light -airs. At 4 and 6 p. m. the two other black seamen who were blown -up on board the schooner died and were thrown overboard, making -altogether six persons who have perished by this most unfortunate -accident. The white seaman is still in a most dangerous state, but -the Surgeon gives us hopes of his recovery. - -We were much surprised on examination of the _Alder’s_ colours to -discover a _Pirate’s_ flag and pendant. This circumstance lessens our -compassion for the deceased Captain Crowley as it indicates a hostile -disposition toward all mankind.... On a consultation of officers -it was deemed advisable to man our prize, put on board of her the -muskets, bafts, iron, etc. we took out of the Sloop _Mary Ann_, send -her to Loango to dispose of her cargo for gold dust, ivory, dyewoods, -or other valuable articles, and then proceed to America. Accordingly -the Commander commissioned Daniel Salisbury as Prize-master, -together with Edward Jones as Mate and four seamen to navigate said -prize on her intended voyage. Made out a prize commission, letter -of instructions, invoices, etc. and gave the Prize-master all the -schooner’s papers. We sent on board of her every article we had -taken out of the sloop or schooner, together with provisions and -various other necessary articles. All hands employed in despatching -the prize. Lat. Obs. 7°. - - -49th Day Saturday 5th Dec. - -.... The wounded foreigner recovers fast and is considered out of -danger. All invalids recovered. Lat. Obs. 6°53′. - - -50th Day Sunday 6th Dec. - -At ½ past 4 p. m. saw the land.... Being Saturday night the crew -drank a health to all sweethearts and wives and amused themselves -with various diversions. The marines chanted psalms and hymns, the -sailors sang “Old Tom Tough,” and “Old Tom Bowling,” and the officers -listened with pleasure to the merriment of the crew.[50] Sounded -frequently during the night in 40, 30, 21 & 15 fathoms of water. -At daylight saw Cape Mount.... Two canoes came from the shore with -blacks. They informed us there were no vessels of any description at -the Cape, upon which we up helm, squared the yards and bore away to -the leeward.... Lat. Obs. 6°38′ N. - - -51st Day Monday 7th Dec. - -At 4 p. m. two canoes came along side from Cape Little Mount and -informed us of a schooner loading with rice at Trade-town, and also -of a large brig that sailed from Monserrada this morning bound -to leeward. During the night, not wishing to pass by Monserrada, -stood off and on under easy sail until daylight when we saw Cape -Monserra distant about 7 leagues. 10 a. m. another canoe came off who -confirmed the news relative to the brig and also mentioned (Which -we regret to hear) that a sloop of war passed down to leeward 6 days -ago. Bought a few plantains and cassadas of these natives but did not -suffer them to come on board. These Africans came off the distance -of 3 or 4 leagues in small bark canoes and were entirely naked; they -most of them spoke some English. The foreign invalid seems worse -to-day, owing no doubt to the excessive heat. Lat. Obs. 6°15′ N. - - -52d Day Tuesday 8th Dec. - -.... At 6 a. m. saw a sail right ahead distant about 4 leagues. Set -all sail in chase. 9 a. m. made out the chase to be a brig standing -in shore.... - - -53d Day Wednesday 9th Dec. - -CAPTURE OF THE ANDALUSIA - -Lat. 5°35′ N. Trade Town bearing N. E. distant about 4 leagues. -Commences with light airs inclining to calm. Continued in chase of -the sail ahead. We now discovered her to be a large armed brig, -showing 8 ports on a side, with English colours flying at her main -peak, apparently preparing for action. At ½ past 1 p. m. the enemy -commenced firing, heaving every shot over us. 2 p. m. he made sail -and began discharging his stern-chasers. At ½ past 2, being within -half cannon shot, we commenced firing our Long Twelve. ¼ past 3 -p. m., having approached within half-musket shot, we opened our -whole battery upon the enemy and continued the action (the enemy -keeping up a well directed fire from his cannon and musketry) till -20 minutes past 4 p. m.,--when observing that the Enemy’s colours -had been shot away in the early part of the engagement, and that his -fire became very faint, the Commander gave orders to cease firing, -and hailed her, enquiring if she had struck. The enemy answered “I -have.” Sent Lieut. Barton on board and found her to be the English -Letter of Marque Brig called the _Andalusia_, Anthony Yates Kendall, -Master, 210 tons burthen, mounting 10 carriage guns, 6 twelve pound -cannonades, & 4 long French nines, with small arms, ammunition etc., -navigated by a Captain, Supercargo, and 17 white seamen, besides -81 free Africans who served as marines. The _Andalusia_ is owned -at Gibraltar, and was last from Sierra Leone bound to the Leeward -with a cargo of sundries on a trading voyage. It appears from her -Log that she captured an American brig called the _Two Friends_ off -Port Praya, and carried her into Sierra Leone. The action lasted -nearly three hours from the time the first shot was fired until the -Enemy struck. We engaged him 45 minutes within pistol shot. Captain -Kendall and his Boatswain were both slightly wounded; the remainder -owed their safety to their excellent bulwark. On boarding the prize -we found her mainmast and foreyard badly wounded; one shot under her -fore-chains, which passed through and lodged in the opposite timbers; -another which entered the cabin and lodged in the Captain’s bed; -nearly all her sails, braces, standing and running rigging shot away, -and every part of the vessel more or less injured. All the white -prisoners were sent on board the _Yankee_ and Lieut. Barton with a -strong watch remained on board the prize to guard the blacks. At 6 -p. m. we made sail standing in shore, our prize in company, and came -to anchor in 20 fathoms water. At daylight piped all hands to duty, -sent part of the crew on board the _Andalusia_ to repair damages and -employed the remainder of the officers and crew in mending our sails, -splicing our rigging, cleaning the arms, landing the black prisoners -on their own shore, and other necessary duty. On examining our -vessel after the action found we had received one 12lb shot through -our bulwarks which passed out the lee side without any material -injury, 4 balls through the main-sail, 6 shot in the foretopsail, one -grape-shot lodged in the mainmast, and the weather forebrace, and one -of the shrouds shot away. No person wounded. - -At 7 a. m. we discovered a schooner in shore, standing to the -northward. Weighed anchor and set sail in chase. 9 a. m. being nearly -calm sent Master Snow with an armed boats’ crew with orders to take -possession of her and then to set sail for the _Yankee_. At meridian -Master Snow not returned. Lat. Obs. 5°35′ N. - - -54th Day Thursday 10th Dec. - -At 4 p. m. Master Snow came to anchor under our lee with his little -prize and gave the following account of his adventure. He said that -on approaching the vessel he observed her boat attempting to land on -the beach. That she struck on a rock, was capsized, throwing every -article into the sea, and the Captain and crew swam on shore. That on -going on board he found her entirely deserted, as he expected, and -stripped of every valuable article, except a quantity of rice stowed -in bulk. He immediately made sail and stood for the privateer. The -prisoners inform us that the schooner is called the _George_, and -owned by Mr. Carr of Sierra Leone; that she is an American pilot boat -and was taken in the Gambia about six months ago. She appears to be -60 or 70 tons burthen, has very poor sails and foul bottom. No doubt -if coppered, with new canvass, she would sail remarkably well, at -present she is very dull. As soon as she came to anchor we sent all -our boats to take out the rice. We supplied our vessel and the other -prize with as much of this article as was wanted, and then Captain -Wilson made a present of the vessel to Captain Sutherland, late of -the _Mary Ann_, as he had been the greatest sufferer by the capture -of his vessel, and moreover had been 15 days a prisoner on board of -the _Yankee_. - -At 11 a. m., having taken the parole of all the white prisoners on -board (giving them duplicates) we supplied them with every necessary -article for their voyage to Sierra Leone and gave them all their -clothes, baggage, private property etc., bade them farewell, sent -them on board the schooner, and then made sail in company with our -prize, standing down the coast. Captains Sutherland and Kendall, Mr. -O’Connor, and all the prisoners, expressed their gratitude and thanks -for the kind treatment they had received on board the _Yankee_. -Indeed they could do no less. For the captains lived in the cabin -with the officers, the mates in the wardroom, and the sailors were -well treated by our crew. In fact our instructions require that -we shall treat our prisoners with kindness and humanity. N.B. The -supercargo of the _Andalusia_ estimated the vessel and cargo at -$19,000, but I am confident they will not sell for $9000 in America. -The _George_ with her rice might be worth $800. Lat. Obs. 5°30′ N. - - -55th Day Friday 11th Dec. - -Having landed the Africans and dismissed the white prisoners -(amounting altogether to 145 persons) we made preparations for -sending home the _Andalusia_. Made out commission, prize instructions -and other documents for Captain Robert Tompenny, who was appointed -Prize-master, together with William Child as Mate and 7 seamen to -navigate said prize to America. Also wrote a letter to the owners -giving them an abstract account of our cruise up to the present -period. At 4 p. m. gave our prize three cheers, bade them adieu, and -made all sail, standing down the coast. During the night light winds -and hazy weather. This morning a great number of canoes along side -with fish and other articles. Exchanged some tobacco, bafts, iron -etc. for ivory and fresh provisions.... John Carter, the Captain of -Long Tom, broke his arm on board the prize in jumping into the hold. -The Surgeon set it. We have at present no invalids on board. Two or -three of the marines are troubled with bad boils but none disabled -from duty. The Surgeon thought it best to send the poor fellow who -was blown up on board the _Alder_ to Sierra Leone under the care of -Captain Sutherland. Lat. Obs. 4°59′ N. - - -56th Day Saturday 12th Dec. - -At 6 p. m. came to anchor in 15 fathoms of water in a sandy bottom, -opposite the town of Settakroo (about 60 miles to the windward of -Cape Palmas) at the distance of about three miles from the shore.... -At daylight piped all hands to duty and sent both our boats, with a -number of canoes, to fill our water. We are told this is the safest -place to water from Goree to Cape Palmas, as the anchorage is good, -the landing easy, and the water most excellent. His Majesty the King -of Settakroo came on board. He is an old man and wears a mantle. His -subjects are entirely naked. His son called Grand Loo, whom we took -out of the _Andalusia_, has been of great assistance to us in our -traffic with the natives for ivory and fresh stock. There are upwards -of a hundred canoes alongside, dressed in the robe of Paradise, who -talk and chatter and scream like a set of monkeys or parrots. Lat. -Obs. 4°42′. - - -57th Day Sunday 13th Dec. - -These 24 hours filled our water, bought two fine bullocks, five -goats, and a quantity of fowls, yams, plantains etc. At 7 p. m. -unmoored and made sail, standing down the coast.... At sunrise calm -and no land in sight. Killed one of the bullocks. A number of fishing -canoes alongside.... Lat. Obs. 4°42′. - - -58th Day Monday 14th Dec. - -.... At 5 p. m. hove to off the town of Grand Sisters, distant -about 3 miles. Sent our barge on shore to land Tom Wilson, whom we -had taken prisoner on the _Mary Ann_. This fellow, son to the King -of Grand Sisters, has been of great assistance to us in filling -our water, and trading with the natives for live stock, ivory etc. -He speaks good English and is an honest, intelligent negro. When -our barge landed we observed a vast collection of the natives on -the beach. Grand Sisters appears to be a large town, composed of -a great number of huts, situated in the midst of palm groves and -rice fields. The adjacent scenery has really a very pleasing and -picturesque appearance. This town is at war with little Sisters, -their neighbors and the natives showed great apprehension in coming -off to our vessel.... The canoes alongside say no vessels have passed -here this month. At meridian Cape Palmas in sight.... This Cape has -no distinguishing appearance except a small rise in the land & trees. -Watch employed in painting the ship. Thermometer 106 in the sun. Lat. -Obs. 4°17′. - - -59th Day Tuesday 15th Dec. - -.... Killed the other bullock. At meridian sailing the Bay of St. -Andrews. The land here rises considerably and is covered with trees -to the very top. No appearance of cultivation. Lat. 4°38′. Carter -recovers fast; the other invalids recovered. - - -60th Day Wednesday 16th Dec. - -As you approach the Bay of St. Andrews the land gradually rises to a -considerable height, and is covered with lofty trees to the summit. -There are no towns visible.... Running down the Gold Coast with great -velocity in hopes of capturing several vessels which we understand -are trading at Cape Lahore. At 8 a. m. a canoe came off from -Picininni, Cape Lahore, who informed us a brig, mounting 6 guns, and -a sloop unarmed left Grand Cape Lahore 7 days ago, bound down to Cape -Corse Castle. This is bad news. These natives brought off gold dust -and ivory but would receive nothing but powder and iron. Therefore we -did not trade with them.... Thermometer 112° Lat. Obs. 4°58′ N.... We -have now been at sea two months being one third of our cruise. During -this time we have taken four prizes, 18 carriage guns, 250 stand -small arms, 145 prisoners, and property to the value of $60,000. Our -Officers and crew are all healthy and in good spirits. And we have -water and provisions for at least three months on board. - - -61st Day Thursday 17th Dec. - -At 2 p. m. Antonio, King of Cape Lahore, attended by 13 of his -nobility came off in a war canoe. His Majesty confirmed the news we -received this morning relative to the brig and sloop. These natives -are as black as ebony, remarkably stout, well made, of a ferocious -aspect, and their hair and beards platted in the most fantastic -style. They wished to exchange gold and ivory for powder, rum and -muskets, but we did not trade with them. After King Antonio had -got as drunk as David’s sow we were obliged to force him and his -cannibals to go on shore. Cape Lahore has no distinguishing mark from -the neighboring coast which is flat and sandy. Lat. 5°5′ N. - - -62d Day Friday 18th Dec. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 5°5′. - - -63d Day Saturday 19th Dec. - -.... At 20 minutes past 9 a. m. Samuel Pickens discovered a brig at -anchor ... supposed to be under Fort Apollonia.... All sails set.... -At meridian the Fort bore right ahead, distant about six leagues. - - -64th Day Sunday 20th Dec. - -Lieut. Barton piped for volunteers to man the barge and cut out -the brig mentioned in yesterday’s journal. Nearly the whole crew -volunteered. From whom Mr. Barton selected 21 of the most able and -experienced seamen, who were properly armed for the purpose. At 4 -p. m. piped to quarters and cleared for action. It was understood -that the _Yankee_ should run in under English colours until she came -within half-cannon shot of the brig, then send our barge on board -the brig with the Lieutenant, another officer, and 6 bargemen only -visible, the remainder being concealed under the sail. Accordingly -at ¾ past 4 p. m. we rounded to within musket shot of the enemy and -sent off the barge. In 6 minutes she had possession of the prize -and immediately made sail, standing out to sea close on a wind. -The _Yankee_ did the same, previously firing the two shot directly -into the Fort; which (strange to tell) was not returned. Lieut. -Barton mentions that when he came alongside, and jumped on board -with the whole boat’s crew completely armed, the Captain instantly -surrendered himself and his vessel. We find our prize to be the -English copper-bottomed brig called the _Fly_ of London, late Captain -Jonathan Tydeman, 91 52/92 tons burthen, mounting 6 carriage-guns, -long sixes, with ammunition, small arms etc. and navigated by a -Captain and ten seamen beside negroes. The _Fly_ was formerly a -French privateer, built in the Isle of France, and condemned at the -Cape of Good Hope. She is a handsome new vessel, sails remarkably -well, and has a valuable cargo of gold-dust, ivory, gunpowder and -drygoods. She captured on the 29th October last a Portuguese sloop -called the _New Constitution_, (supposed to be American property) -with 8 slaves on board, and sent her to Sierra Leone for trial. The -invoice of the _Fly’s_ cargo at the time she left London amounted to -£6810, 2s, 5d, but her cargo is not calculated to sell in America. -The prize and cargo, including the gold-dust, may be reasonably -estimated at $15,000. Captain Tydeman states that altho the Castle at -Apollonia mounts 50 heavy cannon, yet it has no garrison, but is the -residence of several factors. Capt. T. says he supposed us to be an -English man of war and therefore made no preparations for defending -his vessel. During the night stood out to sea, our prize in company. -At daylight piped up all hands & made preparations for sending home -the prize. Took the paroles of all prisoners, giving them duplicates. -At 8 a. m. being in sight of land, we sent the prisoners on shore -(according to their own request) in their own long boat--giving them -all their clothes, baggage and private property besides several -presents. Took out of our prize some gunpowder, rum, porter, -livestock and various small articles, supplying her with water and -sundries for her voyage. Made out Prize Commission, Instructions, -wrote a letter to the owners and sent Capt. Thomas Milton Prize -Master of said brig, and at 11 p. m. bade him adieu and made sail on -our course. Lat. Obs. 4°41′ N. - - -65th Day Monday 21st Dec. - -At 7 p. m. passed our prize, gave them three cheers, and finally took -leave of them.[51] ... The Commander thinks it advisable to leave the -coast as no doubt there are men of war in pursuit of us both from the -windward and leeward. Lat. Obs. 4°23′. - - -66th Day Tuesday 22d Dec. - -.... We are now running for Annabona for the purpose of watering -and then proceeding on our cruise. Andrew Holden and several seamen -indisposed and on the Surgeon’s list. Carter gets better fast. Lat. -Obs. 3°31′ N. - - -67th Day Wednesday 23d Dec. - -.... Nothing remarkable.... Lat. Obs. 2°55′ N. - - -68th Day Thursday 24th Dec. - -.... Nothing remarkable.... Lat. Obs. 2°18′ N. - - -69th Day Friday 25th Dec. - -.... Killed the fatted calf, or more properly the fatted goat, gave -the crew a pudding with extra allowance of grog, to keep a Merry -Christmas. All hands in good health and fine spirits. Thermometer 88° -in the cabin. No doubt our friends in Bristol are now shivering with -the cold under the icicles and snow banks of their frozen climate. -Lat. Obs. 1°45′ N. Long. Lunar at 9 a. m. 3° E. - - -70th Day Saturday 26th Dec. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 1°25′ N. - - -71st Day Sunday 27th Dec. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 1°21′ N. Lunar Obs. at 10 a. m. -5°20′ E. - - -72d Day Monday 28th Dec. - -.... At 2 p. m. discovered a sail bearing two points on the lee -bow. 4 p. m. spoke the Portuguese schooner (or boat) 14 or 16 tons -burthen, called the _Antonia de Santa Rosa de Lima_, Capt. Felix, 5 -days out from St. Thomas’ bound to Princes’ Island, with 27 slaves on -board. The captain and crew, 9 in number, were all black.[52] He said -there were no vessels of any kind at St. Thomas’ and he has seen none -since he sailed.... Lat. Obs. 1°7′ N. - - -73d Day Tuesday 29th Dec. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 34′ N. Lieut. Vinson -indisposed.[53] - - -74th Day Wednesday 30th Dec. - -.... Surgeon’s list. Lieut. Vinson, Mr. Andrew Holden, N. A. Slocum, -Jas. Holden, John Carter, etc. None dangerous.[54] Lat. Obs. 30′ N. - - -75th Day Thursday 31st Dec. - -As you approach the Island of St. Thomas from the westward, the land -gradually rises from the northern and southern extremities till -it forms a high mountain in the centre covered with clouds. This -island appears to be covered with trees except on a few level spots -where there are green fields. At the northeast point there are two -hummocks, which on approaching you find to be the Island of Anna de -Chaves. At ½ after 6 p. m. came to anchor in 20 fathoms of water. -[Here follow some of the “ranges” taken.] At 8 a. m. the Commander -and clerk went on shore, waited upon the Governor and Fiscal; were -received with attention and politeness; obtained permission to fill -their water, and were promised a supply of live-stock, vegetables -and fruit. The Governor invited them to dine on shore but Capt. -W. declined, wishing to return on board to expedite the watering. -The Governor had no information of the war between England and -America. A British vessel touched at St. Thomas’ lately, who said -all differences were settled between the governments. He informed -us of a large English Letter of Marque Ship, mounting 18 guns, with -45 men, loading with camwood in Gaboon River. He says the _Amelia_ -Frigate is expected at the island, and that most of the men of war on -the coast touch at the island for supplies. Both the officers spoke -in high terms of America, were pleased to find that our governments -were still on amicable terms, and expressed the greatest indignation -against British Power, Pride, Injustice and Insolence. They were -rejoiced that we had met with success on our cruise, and appeared -entirely friendly in every respect. Surgeon’s List. Mr. Holden Lieut. -V. and Slocum recovered and struck off the list. - - -76th Day Friday 1st January 1813 - -The first part of this day filled our water from a fine clear rapid -river, situated about 100 yards from the white house on the beach, -cut as much wood as was necessary. At 4 p. m. (Thursday afternoon) -an officer came on board with the Governor’s compliments, and -mentioned that he would supply us with every article we wanted as -soon as possible, and send them on board in canoes without obliging -us to beat up to the city. Sent a note expressive of our thanks on -the occasion. At 9 a. m. the Commander and clerk again visited his -Excellency Don Raymond da Cunha Matos and were received as yesterday -with great politeness and civility. It being a great holiday they -attended church, (N. B. The priests, monks and whole congregation -were mulattoes or blacks) saw a procession civil and military -composed of the principal inhabitants, with two bands of music, and -the Virgin Mary, parading the streets. Dined with the Governor, -had a most excellent dinner, with all kinds of vegetables, fruits, -sweetmeats, liquors and wines; remained on shore the rest of the day -as it came on to rain very heavy. The Governor having sent on board -every article we wanted, paid him the amount in cloth and gold, bade -him and the Fiscal adieu, returned on board, and at 11 p. m. weighed -anchor and stood out to sea with a fair wind.[55]St. Thomas’ is a -beautiful, fertile island, producing coffee in great abundance and -of a superior quality; also corn, spices, vegetables and fruits of -every description, cattle and other livestock, turtle, fish, etc. -The town is in the form of a half moon, is situated at the head of a -fine bay, and may contain three hundred houses, interspersed among -gardens, plantain groves and coffee trees. Most of the buildings are -small, many of them in ruins, and the remainder by no means elegant. -The fort, or castle, as you enter the bay on the left hand mounts 40 -pieces of cannon, with a garrison of 100 men. The Governor informed -us he had information of two small English brigs loading in the -Gaboon, besides the ship mentioned yesterday which he understood was -now at the Cameroons. Upon the whole the Commander of the _Yankee_ -was much gratified with his reception at St. Thomas’, and pleased -to find these officers so favorably disposed toward the American -government. - - -77th Day Saturday 2d Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Invalids all recovered. Lat. Obs. 16′ N. - - -78th Day Sunday 3d Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lieut. Vinson and Asa Switcher incapable -of duty. John Carter, James Holden, J. C. Lindegard, and several -indisposed with slight complaints. Lat. Obs. 6′ South. - - -79th Day Monday 4th Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable.... Excessively hot, Thermometer 90° at -midnight, being on the Line. Lat. Obs. 4′ North. - - -80th Day Tuesday 5th Jan. - -.... At 7 p. m. came to anchor at the mouth of the Gaboon River in -ten fathoms of water.... Immediately piped for volunteers to man the -barge and explore the river to discover any strange sails. Master -Snow appointed to command the expedition, and 21 brave fellows -selected to accompany him. They were all completely armed and -supplied with every article necessary for their night campaign. At 20 -m. past 7 P. M. the barge left the _Yankee_ with the best wishes of -their remaining companions for their success and safe return. During -the night calm and intolerably hot. At 9 a. m. discovered two large -boats in shore rowing toward us full of men. Piped all hands to -Quarters, cleared for action and got a spring on the cable. Shortly -after two African princes came on board, who informed us there was a -small Portuguese schooner loading with slaves high up the river, and -that an English Cutter arrived three days ago at King Glas’ Town, -near the mouth of the river. From their description of the vessel, -Captain and cargo we were clearly convinced that this Cutter was no -other than our prize the _Alder_, Capt. Salsberry. Capt. S. passed -as an English vessel and told the natives he had been fired at by -a Portuguese ship at Rio Pungus, and that one shot stove his boat; -that he had been struck by lightning during a tornado, which blew -up his quarter deck and killed the former captain and five seamen. -This ingenious deception does much credit to our Prize-Master. These -Africans further told us that the two brigs we heard of at St. -Thomas’ sailed with valuable cargoes two weeks ago, and that the -ship had not arrived. At meridian the barge returned on board and -Master Snow informed us that they had proceeded up the river at least -twelve leagues, that they saw no English vessels, but heard of the -Portuguese schooner; that on their return they boarded the cutter -mentioned above and found her to be really our prize the _Alder_. -Capt. Salisberry stated he had met a great deal of bad weather and -lost some spars, but saw no enemy. He arrived in the river five -days since, was making a rapid and profitable trade for ivory, wax, -skins and wood, and expected to sail in about a week for America. -Himself and crew were in good health. Surgeon’s list. Lieut. Vinson, -James Holden, J. C. Lindegard recovered, Carter nearly recovered and -Switcher better. Lat. Obs. 37′ N. - - -81st day ... Wednesday 6th Jan. - -At meridian weighed anchor and stood out of the Gaboon River bound -down the coast.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 18′ S. - - -82d Day Thursday 7th Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable.... No observation. - - -83d Day Friday 8th Jan. - -During these 24 hours (as usual) variable winds, calms, squalls, -thunder, lightning and heavy rain. All hands employed about ship’s -duty presenting a very busy and amusing scene. Lat. Obs. 31′ S. - - -84th Day Saturday 9th Jan. - -.... All sail set, bound to Annabona for supply, and from thence to -the Island of St. Helena, one of our cruising stations. Long. from -Lunar Obs. at 3 o’clock p. m. 8°40′--Lat. Obs. 1°22′ S. - - -85th Day Sunday 10th Jan. - -Annabona bearing W. N. W. 3 leagues. At 5 p. m. saw the land 2 -points on the lee bow. ¼ past 5 discovered a sail 4 points on the -weather bow, took in studding-sails and luffed up close on a wind in -chace.... At 10 p. m. discovered by the help of our night glasses -that the chace was a brig standing to the westward. Shortened sail -and kept in company during the night. At daylight made all sail to -come up with the chace. Observed she had hove to; hoisted English -colours & showed 7 ports on a side. Piped all hands to quarters -and cleared for action. At 7 a. m. came alongside and ordered her -to strike her colours, which she did accordingly. Sent the barge -on board and found our prize to be the English Brig _Thames_, late -Francis Toole Master, 171 tons burthen, mounting 8 carriage guns -(4-12 lbs & 4 long nines) with small arms, ammunition, etc. from -Mayjumba, coast of Africa, bound to London, navigated by 14 persons, -with a cargo of camwood, some goods and ivory. Took the prisoners on -board the _Yankee_, and sent Capt. George Eddy as Prize-Master, with -N. M. Slocum and 8 seamen to navigate said vessel to America. Gave -said Prize-Master the vessel’s papers, his Commission, Instructions, -Letter to the Owners etc. and then bade him farewell. The _Thames_ is -copper-bottomed, thoroughly repaired, and carries a large cargo. This -vessel and cargo may be reasonably estimated at $25,000. - -N. B. On the very day and hour of our capturing the _Thames_ our -Commander was born--27 years ago. - - -86th Day Monday 11th Jan. - -At 5 p. m. came to anchor on the north side of the Island of Annabona -in 7 fathoms water, sandy bottom, opposite a small village distant -about a mile from the shore.... Soon after we came to, the black -Governor and his mate came on board. We easily obtained permission to -water, wood etc.... Having finished our trade and filled our water -at 20 m before 12 a. m. we got under weigh.... This island is 7 or -8 leagues in circumference and is remarkable for a lofty mountain -covered with orange, lime and cocoanut trees. It has a fertile and -beautiful appearance. - -_It is with deep regret_ that the Commander of the _Yankee_ feels it -his duty in justice to himself, his Officers and his crew, to make -the following entry in his Journal, relative to the conduct of one -of his officers.--My Second Lieutenant John H. Vinson, has never, -in my opinion, displayed either seamanship, judgment or courage -during our cruise. He appeared to be much intoxicated on the night of -the partial engagement with His Majesty’s Schooner _St. Jago_, and -behaved with great impropriety. During the skirmish with the _Alder_ -he was particularly negligent in not extinguishing the flames when -our bulwarks were on fire. And during the long engagement with the -_Andalusia_ he certainly did not manifest either activity or courage. -This officer is guilty of one offence which would subject him even to -capital punishment--viz--_sleeping on his watch_. The night after we -captured the _Fly_, when we had a number of prisoners on board, and -many of our crew had got drunk on board the prize, and were extremely -riotous, Lieut. Vinson was himself much intoxicated, or to speak -plainly _dead drunk_, and slept in his watch in presence of myself, -my officers, and the whole crew. He was guilty of the same offence -on the 5th January when we lay at the Gaboon, and also last night -when we had 14 prisoners on board, and were anchored on a savage -coast. This offence of getting drunk and sleeping on a watch is of a -very serious and alarming nature, endangering both the safety of the -vessel and the lives of all on board. His conduct subjects him to a -court martial which will certainly convince him of his errors. - - -87th Day Tuesday 12th Jan. - -.... At 4 p. m. exercised all hands at quarters; after which piped -all hands to muster and found our crew now consisted of 71 men.... -Lat. Obs. 1°25′ S. - - -88th Day Wednesday 13th Jan. - -.... John Carter recovered and struck off the Surgeon’s list. No -invalids. Nothing worthy of remark. Lat. Obs. 1°53′ S. - - -89th Day Thursday 14th Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable.... Lat. Obs. 2°39′ S. No invalids. - - -90th Day Friday 14th Jan. - -.... Lat. Obs. 3°16′ S.... _We have now_ been at sea 3 months, -one half of our cruise, and 97 days from Bristol where our cruise -commenced. During this time we have taken 6 prizes, measuring 685 -tons, mounting 34 carriage guns, 525 stand of arms, and 150 prisoners. - - -91st Day Saturday 16th Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable.--Lat. Obs. 4°23′. - - -92d Day Sunday 17th Jan. - -.... All hands in excellent health. Being Saturday (Sunday) night all -hands enjoyed the jubilee and drank to their sweethearts and wives. -Our prisoners are mostly Irishmen and seem to be quiet and well -disposed. Lat. Obs. 5°55′. - - -93d Day Monday 18th Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 6°33′ S. - - -94th Day Tuesday 19th Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 7°13′ S. - - -95th Day Wednesday 20th Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 7°53′ S. - - -96th Day Thursday 21st Jan. - -At ¼ Past 5 p. m. came to anchor off the N. W. end of Ascension -Island.... Sent the barge on shore for the purpose of taking turtle -during the night.... At 8 a. m. the barge returned on board with a -fine large turtle, weighing at least 400 lbs., and containing several -thousand eggs--the only one seen on the beach during the night. -At 9 a. m. again dispatched the barge and Capt. Wilson went on -shore in the jolly-boat, to endeavor to procure more turtle. Wrote -a letter, or memorandum, mentioning the arrival of the Privateer -_Yankee_ at this island; her successful cruise, number of captures, -guns, prisoners, value, etc.; also the declaration of war against -England, and its principal events;--which letter we directed to any -American captains who might hereafter touch at this island. This -letter was deposited among the rocks, being anchored in a bottle, -where we observed a number of names engraved, particularly the -following “Young Dickenson, J. W. Costa, 1813,” and “The Crescent -Leach, 1812.” ½ past 11 a. m. the boats returned on board without -any success. The officers and seamen caught a great number of fish, -and killed a quantity of birds--neither fit to eat. The Island of -Ascension is 3 leagues in length and 2 in breadth. It is composed -of several hills or hummocks covered with a reddish earth, and has -a very rugged and craggy appearance. It was evidently thrown up by -some convulsion of nature. It is not inhabited and produces neither -tree, fruit or vegetable--nay not even fresh water. There are some -miserable lean wild goats and innumerable ship rats. The island is -principally remarkable for the vast quantity of turtle which resort -here to deposit their eggs during certain months of the year. These -turtle are easily taken during the night by concealing yourself on -the beach, rushing suddenly upon them when they come on shore, and -capsizing them. They are said to be of the finest and most delicious -kind. Joseph Anthony, coxswain of the barge, was very badly bruised -when she capsized in the surf, and Zep. Andrews cut his hand very -severely in butchering the turtle. It is singular that our crew -receive more wounds from their own negligence than the shot of the -enemy. Ascension--7°56′ South Lat. 13°54′ West Long.[56] - - -97th Day Friday 22d Jan. - -The officers and company feasted most luxuriously on the fine turtle -they caught the preceding night.... Caught another large turtle -during the night. At 7 a. m. got in the barge, weighed anchor, and -stood out to sea.... Anthony and Andrews much better. Lat. Obs. -7°53′. Variation by a correct Amplitude taken while at anchor in -Ascension Roads 15°12′ W. - - -98th Day Saturday 23d Jan. - -.... The Surgeon performed a surgical operation on James Anthony, -by cutting out a wen or protuberance on his right cheek. Dr. Miller -seems to be quite proficient in the use of the knife and lancet. Lat. -Obs. 8° S. - - -99th Day Sunday 24th Jan. - -.... Killed our large turtle and all hands had a Sunday feast. It was -superexcellent. No invalids. Lat. Obs. 8° S. - - -100th Day Monday 25th Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 8°15′ S. - - -101st Day Tuesday 26th Jan. - -At 9 a. m. piped all hands to Vendue and sold a quantity of prize -goods, viz, shirts, cloth, linen, razors, knives, cloaks, flannel, -etc. etc. to the officers and crew to furnish them with clothes for -their cruise and when they arrive on a winter’s coast. Lat. 8°6′ S. - - -102d Day Wednesday 27th Jan. - -.... Nothing worthy of remark. Lat. Obs. 7°53′ S. Long. Lunar 29°35′ -W. - - -103d Day Thursday 28th Jan. - -.... Lat. Obs. 7°52′ S. Lunar Obs. 32°7′ W. - - -104th Day Friday 29th Jan. - -.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 8°8′. - - -105th Day Saturday 30th Jan. - -.... 7 a. m. saw several small Portuguese fishing boats, called -Jangars. ½ past 7 a. m. made the land bearing right ahead, distant -7 or 8 leagues. The land appeared low, with a number of towers or -churches on the coast, and the town of Olinde situated on the side -of a hill, making a beautiful appearance. 9 a. m. discovered several -large vessels at anchor in the harbour of Pernambuco. 11 a. m. spoke -a Portuguese schooner just out of Pernambuco, bound to windward; -informed us there were no English men of war on the coast--that there -were three large British ships in harbour, loading, and two American -schooners laid up without cargoes. They had heard of no American -privateers on this station. 11 a. m. jibed ship in chace of a sail -distant 4 or 5 miles.... Lat. Obs. 8°12′. - - -106th Day Sunday 31st Jan. - -Pernambuco bearing N. W. distant 8 or 10 leagues. At 1 p. m. piped -all hands to quarters, ran down under the lee of a large armed -English brig, pierced for 16 guns, and mounting 8. When within -pistol shot ordered her to strike her colours--the reply was “We -are all ready”--and hesitated. Capt. Wilson again ordered him to -lower his flag and quit the deck or he would fire into him. The -reply was “Surely you are joking.” Our Commander still ordered his -men not to fire, and a third time ordered him to strike instantly, -which he did with great reluctance. Sent our boat on board and found -our prize to be the large armed English Brig called the _Harriott -and Matilda_ of Maryport, Captain John Inman, burthen 262 tons, -copper-bottomed, mounting 8 carriage guns--6 twelve and 2 eighteen -pound cannonades, from Cork bound to Pernambuco, with a cargo of -salt, porter, iron, drygoods, earthenware, butter, cheese, potatoes -etc. etc. The _Harriott and Matilda_ was captured from the Danes in -1808, sails well, and is a fine vessel. The vessel and cargo may be -reasonably valued at $27,000. Took the prisoners on board and beat -off the land during the night. At 7 p. m. sent 18 prisoners ashore -in our barge, which we gave them, with all their clothes, baggage, a -compass, water, provisions etc. being at this time within 7 leagues -of Pernambuco. During the latter part of these 24 hours all hands -employed in taking out the following articles from the prize, viz--16 -hampers cheese, 56 do Irish potatoes, 20 kegs of butter, 6 casks -bottled porter, 20 gallons Rum, and 31 bales of fine merchandise. The -_Harriott and Matilda_ sailed from Cork under convoy of the _Frolic_ -(_Cherub?_) sloop of war, and parted from him three days before. The -convoy consisted of 6 East Indiamen, and several others bound to Rio -Janeiro. It is worthy of remark that the _Yankee_ ran from Ascension -to Cape St. Augustine, a distance of 1200 miles, in 7½ days--fresh -trades, pleasant weather, a smooth sea, and all sails set, scarcely -ever moving tack or sheet. Lat. Obs. 8°29′. - - -107th Day Monday 1st Feb. - -All hands employed in sending away the prize. Made out Commission, -Letter of Instructions, wrote a letter to the owners, and gave the -ship’s papers to the Prize-Master, Richard M. Coit, with a crew of 12 -men. At 4 p. m. gave our prize three cheers and bade her adieu. At 9 -a. m. having taken the paroles of all the prisoners, we gave Capts. -Toole and Inman the long boat of the prize, supplied them with every -necessary article, and being within 6 leagues of Pernambuco, they -went on shore. Capt. Toole had been 21 days a prisoner and behaved -very well during the whole time. 10 a. m. saw a sail bearing S. E. at -a great distance. Lat. Obs. 8°4′ S. - - -108th Day Tuesday 2d Feb. - -At 1 p. m. discovered a sail on the lee bow at a great distance. -At 3 p. m. having approached within 2½ miles of the sail mentioned -in yesterday’s journal made her out to be an English sloop of war -in disguise. Immediately up helm, set staysails, and bore away N. -b E. The enemy did the same and set all sail, showing a cloud of -canvas. We were glad to observe that we soon altered his bearings, -& at sundown left him astern, distant about 3 or 4 leagues.... On -mustering the crew find we have 62 persons on board, including boys -and negroes, also 3 prisoners. Lat. Obs. 8°14′ S. - - -109th Day Wednesday 3d Feb. - -.... ½ after 5 p. m. saw several sails, made all sail in chace, but -soon discovered them to be Jangars, or fishing boats. Lat. 7°53′. - - -110th Day Thursday 4th Feb. - -At 3 p. m. having run down opposite Pernambuco ... hoisted the -American pendant and colours, and hauled up close on the wind, bound -to Fernando Noronha for a supply of water. Lat. Obs. 9°17′ S. - - -111th Day Friday 5th Feb. - -.... Lat. Obs. 7°29′ S. - - -112th Day Saturday 6th Feb. - -.... Lat. Obs. 5°56′.--Long. Lunar 33°50′. - - -113th Day Sunday 7th Feb. - -At ½ past 5 a. m. the Island of Fernando Noronha--½ past 7 saw a sail -2 points under the lee bow. Made all sail in chace. At ½ past 10 a. -m. came up with the chace and found her to be our prize the _Alder_, -Salisberry Master, being the second time we have spoken him. Sent for -Capt. Salisberry on board, who informed us that he left the Gaboon -on the 11th ult.--that he has seen no sail, that his schooner sailed -well and was in good order, that his crew were all healthy except -James Thomas--whom we took on board, and sent one of our prisoners in -his stead,--and that he had a full cargo of the following articles; -viz. 50 oz gold dust, 45 tons red-wood, 1 do ivory, ½ do bees wax, -700 lbs gum copal. Took the gold on board, supplied Capt. S. with -some bread, rice, butter, porter, etc. and at meridian gave him three -cheers and bade him adieu. Lat. Obs. 3°43′. - - -114th Day Monday 8th Feb. - -.... ½ Past 7 a. m. came to anchor in 13 fathoms water, hard bottom, -in a convenient harbour at the N. W. end of Fernando Noronha, distant -about ¾ of a mile from the shore. The Commander sent Lieut. Barton -to ask permission of the Governor to obtain wood and water. He was -received in the most friendly manner and the petition was at once -granted. The Governor informed Lieut. B. that the _Morjiana_ and -_Acosta_, British Frigates, touched at this island last December, -bound to India; and that the American ship _John_ of Salem, also -touched here on the 14th Jan. 1813. 11 a. m. sent the boat to fill -water, which is very difficult to obtain.... - - -115th Day Tuesday 9th Feb. - -At 5 p. m. got up the anchor and dropped down nearer the watering -place.... Both boats employed in getting off wood and water. Owing -to the heavy surf which breaks over the rocks find it very difficult -to take off the water. However got 9 casks on board and two boat -loads of wood. Master Snow and Lieut. Barton on shore finishing our -affairs, i.e. filling the rest of the water, buying fresh stock, -etc. etc. All hands busy, some in the boats, others in the hold, -many overhauling the rigging, slushing the masts, etc. no idlers, -everyone anxious to leave the famous (or perhaps _infamous_) island -of Fernando Noronha.[57] James Thomas, the seaman we took out of the -_Alder_, is dangerously sick of a fever he caught in the Gaboon. - - -116th Day Wednesday 10 Feb. - -Messrs. Snow, Barton and Miller dined on shore with the Governor. -They were treated with great civility and politeness. The Governor -expressed his satisfaction at our having captured 14 English vessels, -and mentioned that an American Consul touched at this island on the -13th Dec. last, on his way to Pernambuco. Having got all wood and -water on board, and also a fine bullock, at 4 p. m. weighed anchor -and stood out to sea, with fresh trades and fine weather--course N. -N. W. bound towards HOME.... Thomas is something better but still -dangerous. Lat. Obs. 1°33′ S. - - -117th Day Thursday 11th Feb. - -.... Nothing worth noting. Lat. Obs. 30′ S. - - -118th Day Friday 12th Feb. - -.... At 3 p. m. being Lieut. Vinson’s watch, a squall struck us with -all sail standing, and nearly capsized the ship. Instantly the other -officers ran upon deck and let fly halyards and sheets and kept her -before it. As soon as the squall was over Captain Wilson put Lieut. -Vinson under arrest for this and various other offences during the -cruise (See ante). Afterwards on his acknowledging his errors and -promising to reform Captain Wilson reinstated him in his command.... -No Obs. - - -119th Day Saturday 13th Feb. - -.... Thomas is better. Lat. Obs. 4°16′ N. - - -120th Day Sunday 14th Feb. - -.... [Nothing worth noting.] Lat. Obs. 6°22′. - - -121st Day Monday 15th Feb. - -.... [Nothing worth noting.] Lat. Obs. 8°35′. - - -122d Day Tuesday 16th Feb. - -.... [Nothing worth noting.] Lat. Obs. 11°2′. - - -123 Day Wednesday 17th Feb. - -.... Thomas is out of danger. Lat. Obs. 13°30′ N. - - -124th Day Thursday 18th Feb. - -.... Thomas is much better. Lat. Obs. 15°37′ N. - - -125th Day Friday 19th Feb. - -.... Distance 203 miles--Lat. Obs. 18°13′ N. - - -126th Day Saturday 20th Feb. - -.... Thomas is not so well. Lat. Obs. 20°52′ N. - - -127th Day Sunday 31st Feb. - -.... [Nothing remarkable.] Lat. Obs. 23°14′ N. Long. Lunar Obs. at 9 -a. m. 52°12′ W. - - -128th Day Monday 22d Feb. - -At 6 a. m. discovered a sail one point on the lee bow.--At 8 -discovered the sail to be a brig.... At 10 made sail in chace of the -ship ... distant about 3 leagues. Lat. Obs. 25°14′. - - -129th Day Tuesday 23d Feb. - -Continued in chace of the sail ahead. At 2 p. m. fired a gun and -hoisted the American flag, upon which the chace showed Portuguese -colours and hove to. At 4 p. m. sent the boat on board and found -her to be the Portuguese ship _Amazon_, Captain Francis Antonia, 24 -days out from Lisbon, bound to Boston with a cargo of salt. Capt. A. -informed us that on the 15th inst. he saw a sail ahead but did not -speak her--that there were a great number of Americans at Lisbon and -Cadiz, who were bound home under neutral colours. Lord Wellington had -visited Lisbon and Cadiz for a few days and returned to his army. -The English told Capt. A. that their fleets had burnt and destroyed -Charleston and Philadelphia (This is very improbable)[58] At 5 p. m. -made sail on our course. Lat. Obs. 26°16′ N.--Long. Lunar Obs. 10 a. -m. 55°27′ W. Var. Ev. Amp. 5°20′ W. Thomas is much better. - - -130 Day Wednesday 24th Feb. - -.... At 11 a. m. discovered a sail on the lee bow, apparently a brig -standing close hauled to the eastward under royals with his course -hauled up. Observed the sail immediately to bear away in chace of -us. Tacked ship and made all sail to avoid the chace, or at least -to discover how she sailed. Gentle breezes, a smooth and pleasant -weather. 11-40 a. m. finding we dropped the chace very fast again -tacked ship.... At meridian the sail bears 2 points on the lee bow, -distant 12 or 14 miles. Lat. Obs. 270°3′ N.--Long. Lunar 56°42′ W. - - -131st Day Thursday 25th Feb. - -Made all sail in chace. At 3 p. m. fired a gun, upon which the chace -showed English colours. ½ past 3 she hove to with her maintopsail -aback. Piped all hands to quarters and cleared for action. ¼ before -4 the enemy got under weigh to engage us. At 4 p. m. being within -good gun shot commenced a brisk cannonade on the starboard side -which the enemy returned. 10 minutes past 4 p. m. she wore ship and -struck her colours. Gave three cheers. Sent the barge on board and -found our prize to be the English Brig called the _Shannon_, Captain -Robert Kendall, of Workington, 25 days out from Maranham, bound to -Liverpool, 210 tons burthen, with a full cargo of cotton (100 bales) -navigated by 15 men, mounting 10 carriage guns, sixes and nines, a -fine vessel and sails well. The Mate was severely wounded in the -foot. Took out the prisoners, made out Prize Commission for Samuel -Barton, Letter of Instructions, gave him ship’s papers, and at ½ past -5 p. m. gave our prize three cheers and bade her adieu. Thus in one -hour and a half we took a valuable prize, manned her and ordered her -home. This prize may be estimated at $45,000.[59] - -Long. Lunar at 9 a. m. 58°6′ W.--Lat. Obs. 27°37′ N. - - -132 Day Friday 26th Feb. - -At 5 p. m. saw a sail 1½ points on the lee bow, apparently a brig -standing to the southward.... At daylight no appearance of the sail -we discovered last night.... Long. Lun. at 11 a. m. 59°44′ W.--Lat. -Obs. 28°20′ N. - - -133d Day Saturday 27th Feb. - -At 3 p. m. discovered a sail two points on the lee beam; believed her -to be an armed vessel in chace of us. Continued our course with all -our canvass spread. ½ past 4 lost sight of the sail astern. During -the night frequent squalls of wind and rain. At 4 p. m. being very -dark and squally found ourselves suddenly in the midst of a fleet of -ships. Instantly called all hands and tacked ship to the S. E. At -daybreak discovered two large ships and a brig standing to the E. -Tacked ship again to the N. N. W. The nearest sail bore two points on -the lee beam distant about 2½ leagues. At 7 a. m. lost sight of all -the sails and continued on our course. Strong breezes, flying clouds -and a heavy sea. Rook two reefs in topsail and mainsail, got six of -our cannon below, with all the shot boxes, secured Long Tom with -strong lashings, housed the lee guns, and got everything ready for -the stormy weather which we may expect to encounter as we approach -our coast.... Thomas is nearly recovered. The wounded prisoner is -comfortable and the Surgeon thinks he will do well. Lat. Obs. 30°27′ -N. - - -134th Day Sunday 28th Feb. - -(Begins with heavy weather) 9 a. m. saw a sail 3 points on the -weather bow. ½ past 10 spoke the Swedish (American) Hermaphrodite -Brig _Augustus_ from Boston, bound to St. Bartholomew’s--with liberty -to touch at Bermuda--with cargo of American produce, 15 days out. -The Captain and passengers informed us that Commodore Decatur had -captured the British Frigate _Macedonian_ after an engagement of -17 minutes; that none of our vessels of war have been taken; that -Admiral Warren’s squadron were blockading the Chesapeake with two -Seventy fours and five Frigates, and that there were not many -cruisers on the coast. We obtained from him several newspapers up to -the 13th Feb., from which it appears that no important battles had -taken place on the Frontier, but several skirmishes with the Indians; -that the foreign news was no later than our English papers--Bonaparte -having retired into winter quarters at Smolenski, and Lord Wellington -on the borders of Portugal; that the coasting trade is still -continued; that a great trade was carried on under neutral flags and -many vessels dispatched to Lisbon, Cadiz and France; that there were -numerous arrivals from foreign ports but not many prizes, and that -five frigates had sailed from France bound to America. Congress had -passed a loan bill for 22 millions and raised another army of 20000 -men, besides building several sloops of war. Permitted the _Augustus_ -to proceed.--Lat. Obs. 31°33′. - - -135th Day Monday 1st March - -.... Distance 212 miles. Invalids recover fast. Lat. Obs. 34°23′ -Thermometer 71°. - - -136th Day Tuesday 2d March - -(Commences with strong breezes and pleasant weather--then comes a -tremendous gale with very high seas.) 11 a. m. the stern boat being -stove in the bows cut it adrift. ½ past 11 a. m. came on a very heavy -squall of rain and hail and hove the ship down nearly to her beam -ends; instantly cut away the fore and trysail halyards, got the helm -up and kept her before it, threw four of our cannon overboard, got -two below, sent down maintopmast; vessel labored excessively, the -sea making a fair breach over her. Continual squalls of wind, rain, -hail and snow, with thunder and lightning and a very dangerous sea. -Finding it unsafe to lay the ship to while the squalls continued sent -her before it under a foretopmast staysail; ship perfectly tight and -making no water. Lat. Obs. 37°11′ N. - - -137 Day Wednesday 3d March - -The storm continues with frequent and heavy squalls.... At 12 -midnight the squalls become less frequent--the wind more moderate -and steady and the sea less dangerous. Hove to under trysail with -her head to the westward, rode easy and shipped no seas. 8 a. m. the -wind died away--nearly a calm--latterly an entire calm. Vessel labors -considerably owing to the heavy sea. Thomas is almost well; the -wounded Mate is in a fair way to recover; the Armourer received a bad -contusion in the side by a fall. Ther. 63° Lat. 36°23′ N. - - -138 Day Thursday 4th March - -(More very nasty weather). Conclude with strong gales and flying -clouds with a bad sea. Invalids not so well. Lat. Obs. 37°30′ N. - - -139th Day Friday 5th March - -(Variable weather. Two sails sighted at a distance.) Mr. Jackson, the -wounded mate, is dangerously ill. Lat. Obs. None. - - -140th Day Saturday 6th March - -(More squally weather with dangerous seas.) Thermometer 45°. Lat. -37°28′. - - -141st Day Sunday 7th March - -(The gale gradually dies away). Dark cloudy weather and excessively -cold. Mr. Jackson is dangerously sick--having symptoms of the -lock-jaw. The Armourer recovered. Lat. Obs. 37°5′ N. - - -142d Day Monday 8th March - -(Again heavy weather and high seas.) Mr. Jackson is (we fear) past -recovery, having frequent spasms and confirmed lockjaw. James Thomas -no better, the Armourer better. No Obs. Lat. D. R. 39°37′ N. Long. D. -R. 69°55′. - - -143d Day Tuesday 9th March - -.... 8 a. m. discovered a sail on the weather bow, ½ past 8 made -out the sail to be a pilot-boat-built schooner under reefs standing -towards us. 9 a. m. the sail showed a red and white signal and bore -away S. E. Believed her to be an American Privateer. ½ past 9 more -ships heading W. N. W.... Tis exactly 5 months today since we left -Bristol. Mr. Jackson no better. Lat. Polar Star at 4 a. m. 39°30′ No -Obs. - - -144th Day Wednesday 10th March - -(Preparations for port). This morning the sun was fair and serene, -the air was clear and bracing, the sea smooth, and a fair wind from -the S. W. Sent up topmasts and yards and set all sail below and -aloft. Cou. N. N. E. 8 knots. Got up all the wet sails, colours -and clothes and aired them. Bent the cables. Lat. Polar star at 7 -p. m. 39°20′ N. Lat. Obs. 40°14′. Long. Lunar at 4 p. m. 72°54′ W. -Soundings at meridian 55 fathoms. Block Island bears N. N. E. distant -about 65 miles. Jackson is better. - - -145th Day Thursday 11th March - -.... At ½ past 4 p. m. the man at mast head called out LAND HO! -Joyful sound to persons five months at sea on a long and dangerous -cruise. Suppose the land to be Long Island. At sundown running down -the land on the larboard hand. 7 p. m. cloudy with rain. Shortened -sail. 8 p. m. being very dark and hazy and not being able to see the -light hove to under reefed topsail and stood off and on 3 a. m. died -away a calm and we suddenly lessened our soundings to 6 fathoms. -Immediately took in sail and let go our small anchor. Found she rode -with her head to the S. W. current setting to the N. E. At daylight -being dark and foggy with rain, and no land in sight, fired several -guns for a pilot. 8 a. m. it became more clear and we discovered the -land and breakers close aboard bearing E. b N. We instantly knew -this land to be Nantucket and that we were mistaken in supposing it -to be Long Island. This mistake might have proved fatal and had it -commenced blowing heavy from the S. W. we must inevitably have been -shipwrecked on these dangerous shoals. Weighed anchor and made all -sail to the S. Soon deepened our soundings to 17 fathoms.... No Obs. - - -146th Day Friday 12th March - -At ½ past 1 p. m. the fog cleared away and we plainly discerned No -Man’s Land, Gay Head and Block Island all in view.... Observe the -land to be covered with snow and a brig and schooner in shore. Cloudy -and very cold with a smooth sea, a fair wind and all sail set. At -3-13 p. m. saw Rhode Island Light right ahead.--6 p. m. came on a -very thick fog with a heavy swell. Spoke a schooner from New York -bound in to Newport who informed us he left Rhode Island Light about -30 minutes ago and that it bore N. N. W. distant about 3 miles. He -further mentioned that there were no British cruisers in the Bay, -but had heard of several off Sandy Hook. Made sail for the Light. ½ -past 6 p. m. it being very dark and foggy, not being able to see the -Light, came to anchor in 17 fathoms, soft bottom. During the night -foggy with heavy rain and extremely cold. 12 midnight discovered -the Light bearing N. N. W. ¼ N. distant about 1½ miles. At daylight -made sail and weighed anchor, standing in for Newport harbour. _It -is with deep regret_ we mention the death of Mr. Jackson, late first -Mate of the English Brig _Shannon_, who died at ½ past 12 midnight in -great agony. Mr. Jackson, as before stated, was severely wounded by -a cannon ball in the foot during the skirmish between the _Yankee_ -and the _Shannon_ on the 24th ult. Notwithstanding every medical -assistance, and all possible attention his wound terminated in the -lockjaw, spasms and death. Mr. Jackson belonged to Workington, was 23 -years old, very much beloved by his captain and crew, and appeared to -be a most excellent young man. - -At ½ past 7 a. m. passed Rhode Island Light; ½ past 8 a. m. fired -a salute of three guns as we passed Fort Wolcott. 9 a. m. came to -anchor in Newport harbour. Thus after an absence of 146 days the -_Yankee_ has arrived safe, having captured during the cruise 8 -valuable prizes, 52 cannons, 196 prisoners, 401 stand of small arms, -and property to the amount of 296,000 dollars. She is ballasted with -gold-dust, ivory and fine goods. She has not lost a man during the -cruise either by sickness or the enemy, and has returned with 52 -persons on board including boys. It is worthy of remark that the -_Yankee_ neither saw nor was chased by any of his Majesty’s war dogs -during the cruise except the little schooner _St. Jago_. She has -encountered as before mentioned a great deal of tempestuous weather -on the coast but has received no material injury, except the loss of -4 cannon thrown overboard on the 2d of March. - - -THUS ENDS OUR CRUISE. - - “Honor and shame from no condition rise, - Act well your part, there all the Honor lies.” - - District and Port of Newport, March 12th, 1813. - - I, Oliver Wilson, Commander of the private armed brig called the - _Yankee_, do swear that what is contained in the foregoing Journal, - consisting of one hundred and fifty pages, is just and true in all - its parts. So help me God. - - OLIVER WILSON. - - Collector’s Office, Port of Newport - Sworn to the day and year above mentioned, - WILLIAM ELLERY, _Collector_. - - -FINIS - -LIST OF PRIZES CAPTURED BY THE PRIVATEER “YANKEE” DURING HER SECOND -CRUISE. - - No. 1. Sloop _Mary Ann_ of London, Captain Stewart Sutherland, - copper-bottomed, mounting 4 carriage guns and navigated by 11 men, - with a cargo of gold-dust, ivory, drygoods, and camwood. Took out - the cargo, stripped the vessel and set her on fire. 27th Nov. - 1812--Lat. Obs. 7°29′ N.--off Sierra Leone. - - Vessel and cargo valued at $16,000 - - No. 2 Letter of Marque Schooner _Alder_, of Liverpool, late Captain - Edward Crowley, mounting 6 carriage guns (9 pounders), coppered, - formerly a French Privateer, with 21 men and a cargo of gun powder - (400 casks) muskets, iron, lead, flints, drygoods, etc. Ordered - home. The _Alder_ was captured on the 3d of Dec. 1812 in Lat. 6°53′ - N, off Cape Saint Anna, after a skirmish of 20 minutes. The _Alder_ - blew up. - - Vessel and cargo valued at $10,000 - - No. 3 Letter of Marque Brig _Andalusia_, Anthony Yates Kendall, - Master of and from Gibraltar, bound to the coast on a trading - voyage, 210 tons burthen, mounting 10 carriage guns (4 long French - nines and 6 twelve pound cannonades) with small arms, ammunition - etc. and a crew of 100 men including 81 Free Africans who served - as marines. The _Andalusia_ was captured on the 10th of Dec. 1812, - in Lat. 5°35′ N, after a running fight of three hours and a close - engagement of 45 minutes. - - Vessel and cargo valued at $17,000 - - No. 4 Pilot boat Schooner _George_. Cut out by the _Yankee’s_ boat. - Deserted by the captain and crew. Cargo Rice. Given to prisoners. - - Vessel and cargo valued at $ 1,000 - - No. 5 Brig _Thames_ of Liverpool, Francis Toole, Master; 8 carriage - guns (nines and twelves), 14 men, cargo ivory, drygoods and camwood - (240 tons)--captured 10th Jan. 1813 off Annabona. - - Vessel and cargo valued at $25,000 - - No. 6 Brig _Fly_ of London, Captain Tydeman, 6 carriage guns (nines) - 14 men, formerly a French privateer, a new and handsome vessel and - sails, cargo gold-dust, ivory, gun powder, drygoods and sundries. - The _Fly_ was cut out from under the guns of Fort Apollonia, - mounting 50 pieces of artillery, at 1 p. m. on the 20th Dec. 1812. - - Vessel and cargo valued at (Besides the gold) $26,000 - - No. 7 Armed Brig _Harriott and Matilda_, of Maryport, Captain John - Inman, from Cork bound to Pernambuco, mounting 8 carriage guns, - eighteens and twelves, 14 men, coppered, 262 tons, sails well, with - a valuable cargo of drygoods, iron, porter, salt etc. - - Vessel and cargo valued at $27,000 - - No. 8 Brig _Shannon_, Captain Robert Kendall, of Workington, from - Maranham, bound to Liverpool, mounting 10 carriage guns (nines and - sixes), 15 men, 210 tons burthen, with a full cargo of cotton (100 - tons). The _Shannon_ was captured on the 24th Feb. in Lat. 27°3′ N. - and Long. Lunar 56°42′ W, Bermudas bearing N. W., after an action of - 10 minutes in which the Mate of the _Shannon_ was severely wounded. - - Vessel and cargo valued at $45,000 - - Property on board the _Yankee_ in gold, ivory, - fine goods etc. $45,000 - -------- - $212,000 - - -GENERAL ESTIMATE. - - Names Guns Men Small Arms Value - - _Mary Ann_ 4 11 186 $16,000 - _Alder_ 6 21 90 10,000 - _Andalusia_ 10 100 90 17,000 - _George_ 7 1,000 - _Fly_ 6 14 20 26,000 - _Thames_ 8 14 30 25,000 - _Harriott & Matilda_ 8 14 20 27,000 - _Shannon_ 10 15 25 45,000 - -- --- --- -------- - 52 196 461 $167,000 - - Value on board the _Yankee_ 45,000 - -------- - $212,000 - - -OFFICERS OF THE YANKEE - - Oliver Wilson, Commander - Seth Barton, First Lieutenant - John H. Vinson, Second Lieutenant - Thomas Jones, Third Lieutenant - Elisha Snow, Master - - Caleb Miller, Surgeon - Noah Jones, Capt. of Marines & Captain’s Clerk - Andrew Holden, First Mate - Joseph Meades, Second Mate - Thomas Pitts, Third Mate - Seven Prize-Masters - Six Quarter-Masters - One hundred men - - -ROUTE OF THE YANKEE - -Touched at St. Jago, Cape de Verds, on the 27th day of her cruise -for wood and water. Engaged one of his Britannic Majesty’s Schooners -on the night of the 23d of November. Cruised between Cape Verde and -Cape Lopez from the 22d of November 1812 to the 6th of January 1813, -looking in at every port, harbour, river, factory, town etc on that -coast, and capturing five valuable prizes, loaded with gold dust, -ivory, dyewoods etc. Touched at the island’s of St. Thomas, Annabona, -Ascension, and Fernando Noronha, at various times during her cruise, -for wood, water and fresh stock. Then cruised off the coast of -Brazil, and captured two large brigs with cargoes of fine goods and -sundries. Fought four battles, crossed the Equinoctial Line six -times, and returned safe into port, having been frequently chased by -the enemy, after an absence of 146 days without the loss of a man.[60] - - (Noah Jones, Captain’s Clerk) - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[40] Ann. Cong. 2 Sess. 1820-21, Senate, pp. 71-77. - -[41] This vessel was the Chippewa. One of the Bristol privateers, -the Macdonough, had developed such remarkable speed as to call -public attention to her builder, Captain Caleb Carr of Warren, R. I. -Accordingly Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, as agent of the United -States Government, was ordered to contract with Captain Carr for the -building of a warship within ninety days. Perry, be it remembered, -had already developed, upon the shores of Lake Erie, a marvellous -capacity for building ships in record time. On March 15, 1814, only -fifty-seven days from the time her keel was laid, notwithstanding -many days of storm and snow, this ship of 411 tons burden, carrying -sixteen guns, was delivered to Commodore Perry for her rigging and -armament. A few days afterward she went to sea completely armed -and rigged. The money for both its construction and equipment was -advanced by Mr. De Wolf. - -[42] A word about nautical terms for the benefit of those not in -an old sea port born. All vessels, except the one masted sloops, -are much larger than those of a hundred years ago, and the number -of masts upon vessels has been increased. A “full rigged ship” of -a century ago was a three masted vessel with square sails hanging -from yards on each of the masts. Schooners and brigs were two masted -vessels, the former with sails on both masts similar to those upon a -sloop yacht today, but very much smaller. The schooner rig was not -applied to three masted craft until about the middle of the last -century. The giant schooners of the present time, with their four, -five, six and even seven masts, had not been dreamed of fifty years -ago. The schooner rig was devised in Gloucester, Massachusetts, about -the year 1713. It is gradually making its way around the world. The -writer noted that in 1904 it had almost entirely supplanted the -“junk” upon the Inland Sea of Japan. - -Brigs were of two kinds, full rigged and hermaphrodite. A full rigged -brig had square sails on both masts, while the hermaphrodite (in -sailor dialect “morfydite”) had square sails on the foremast and -schooner sails on the other, and was sometimes called a brigantine. -The Yankee, ordinarily spoken of as a brig, was really a brigantine. -Brigs are rarely seen in United States ports today. They almost -invariably sail under a foreign flag. - -[43] Captain Wilson was only twenty-six years old. - -[44] It is reported that these unfortunates were frequently asked -“how they liked the swimming” by those of the crew who had remained -for the capture of the San Jose Indiano, and that rude boys, for -almost a generation, continued to ask the same question, always of -course at a respectful distance. - -[45] The San Jose Indiano was a teak built East Indiaman. How old she -was at the time of her capture we do not know, but she was destined -to a long life under the American flag. As far as seaworthiness was -concerned she might have continued to plow the seas until the time of -our Civil War--then to end her days with the other whaleships from -New Bedford and elsewhere that were sunk to block the entrance to -the harbor of Charleston, S. C. Mr. De Wolf renamed her the General -Jackson and used her for a time in the general carrying trade. Later -when the whale fishery became popular with the people of the towns on -Narragansett Bay she received a whaler’s outfit and sailed for years -with the Bristol whaling fleet. The Mexican War having broken out, -she was sold, in 1846 or thereabout, to the United States Government, -being by her construction specially adapted for work in tropical -waters. When a Government survey was made, preliminary to her sale, -the carpenters who attempted to cut holes in her sides expended many -tools, and much profanity, before they could make any impression upon -her planks. Her teak timbers, combined with the cement between their -joints, for a time defied all their efforts, both wood and cement -having become almost as hard as stone. After she had lain for some -months at anchor off Vera Cruz, the Government had no further need -for her and therefore sold her to a third American owner. To him she -did not prove profitable, and it is said that an attempt to set her -on fire in order to secure her insurance was made. The staunch old -ship simply refused to burn. Again she was sold for a very small sum. -Then, so the story goes, a more scientific and successful attempt -to transfer her to the underwriters was made. She was loaded with a -cargo of lime, and then holes having been skilfully made in her hull, -doubtless with more profanity, she was cleared for a southern port. -Somewhere in the waters about the Florida peninsula she was run upon -a reef, and the ocean combined with the lime to do the rest. - -[46] The name Goree was until very recently applied to the part of -the town of Bristol in which the negroes lived. - -[47] This is the only record of a punishment inflicted upon one of -the crew during the whole cruise. As will later appear one of the -Officers became subject for censure on several occasions. - -[48] Baft, or bafta, was a coarse stuff of India cotton. - -[49] The _Yankee_ in firing aimed to disable--not to destroy her -possible prizes. - -[50] In comparing the edifying music of the marines with the ungodly -songs of the sailors the gentle reader will do well to bear in mind -the fact that the writer was the Captain of Marines. - -[51] This was true in more ways than one as the _Fly_ was recaptured -by the British. The gold dust she had accumulated reached Bristol in -the _Yankee_. - -[52] The small size of the vessel suggests the _Pinta_ and the _Niña_ -of the fleet of Columbus. - -[53] Mr. Vinson’s indisposition was probably due to drunkenness, as -will appear from subsequent entries. His case was an unusual one for -a Privateersman. - -[54] Query, Were there others suffering from the Vinsonian malady? - -[55] Descriptions like this, which occur frequently in the Journals -of American merchantmen, were carefully read by ship owners, and -mastered by the Captains sent to trade with foreign ports. - -[56] The two islands, Ascension and Saint Helena, which was later to -become famous as the prison of Napoleon Bonaparte, were both made -“Ports of Call” for the _Yankee_. - -[57] The island is used by the government of Brazil as a penal -settlement. - -[58] The burning of Washington was yet to come. - -[59] Before the _Shannon_ was captured, Mr. Jones had made out his -“List of Prizes,” and had also written the “Route of the _Yankee_” -which is printed at the end of this Journal. It is possible that -he may not have protested very strongly at the additional entries -he was compelled to make. The _Shannon_, with her cargo, actually -netted $67,521. The erroneous estimate may be excused in view of the -exceedingly short time allowed for its making. When the cargo of the -_Shannon_ was sold, Mr. De Wolf found that he had been remunerated -for all his losses suffered at the hands of the British cruisers. He -therefore renamed her the _Balance_. Bearing that name she sailed -from Bristol for years thereafter. The next prize was renamed the -_Prize_, and the next the _Remittance_. The _San Jose Indiano_ of the -5th cruise became the _General Jackson_. - -[60] The _Shannon_ had not been taken when this “Route” was written. - - - - -INDEX - - - Adam of Bremen, 8 - - Alaska houses and customs, 146 - - Allen, Amos A., 231 - - Allen, Anson A., 244 - - Ancastra, Governor General, 240 - - Andrews, Zep, 269 - - Angell, James, 228, 230, 231, 234, 235, 237, 241, 244 - - Annals of Iceland, 9 - - Anthony, James, 270 - - Anthony, Joseph, 238, 269 - - Antonio, Capt. Francis, 277 - - Antonio, King of Lahore, 256 - - Archangel settlement, 126 - - Ariadne of Boston, 229 - - Athawalpa, 116 - - Atwood, Preserved, 240 - - - Babcock, W. H., 2 - - Bafts, 246 - - Baidarkas, 114 - - Baker, Lemuel, 241 - - Balance, brig, 278 - - Bander, Supt., 144 - - Baranoff, Baron, 114 et seq., 120 - - Barracks moved, 25 - - Barton, Samuel, 219, 220, 278 - - Barton, Seth, 228, 245, 251, 257, 274, 275, 288 - - Belfour, Ellah & Co., 198 - - Biarni, Heriulfson, 3 - - Blockade, privateer, 212 - - Booldakoff, Mr., 195 - - “Boston Men,” 111 - - Bosworth, Nathaniel, 15 - - Boyish sports, 30 - - Boynton, Samuel, 233, 234, 235, 237, 244 - - Bradford, Gov. William, 23, 25 - - Bradford house, 25 - - Briggs, John, 227, 230, 231, 234, 235, 241, 244 - - Bristol, name 14, - bombarded 22, - burned 23 - - Brown, Captain, 113 - - Brown, Daniel, 44 - - Brown, John, 19, 206 - - Brown, Peleg, 44 - - Bruce, George A., 219 - - Bucharin, Capt., 163 - - Bucklin, D., 102 - - Bucklin, E., 102 - - Burgas, Capt. Miguel, 233 - - Burt, Rev. John, 22 - - Burt, “Marm,” 25 - - Burton, Stephen, 13, 14 - - Butman, Joseph, 244 - - Byfield, Nathaniel, 13, 18 - - Byfield house, 15 - - Byrum, Ebenezer, 231 - - - Cammett, Richard, 102 - - Caroline of Boston, 111 - - Carr, Capt. Caleb, 212, 214 - - Carr, Mr., 252 - - Carter, John, 253, 260, 263, 264, 266 - - Charanville, Madam, 89 - - Child, William, 253 - - Chippewa, sloop of war, 212 - - Church, Benjamin, 12, 14 - - Churchill, Capt. Benj. K., 221, 222 - - Cockroach, Cuffee, 219, 221 - - Coddington Jr., Nathaniel, 44 - - Coit, Richard M., 272 - - Colt, Samuel Pomeroy, 224 - - Columbia of Boston, 111 - - Commerce, 31 - - Cook, J. D., 102 - - Courtney, brig, 220 - - Cramer, Benedict, 195 - - Cramer, Smith & Co., 195 - - Crawford, James, 235 - - Crowne, John, 12 - - Crowley, Capt. Edward, 246, 285 - - Cuffee Cockroach, 219, 221 - - Cunha Matos, Governor, 262 - - - Davidoff, John, 121, 128, 153, 201 - - D’Antillac, Father, 92 - - D’Huberlant, Father, 92 - - D’Orvilliers, Commandant, 85 - - DeVilleconte, Father, 92 - - DeWolf, Charles, 101 - - DeWolf, George, 101 - - DeWolf, James, 32, 101, 200 et seq. - - DeWolf, John, 97 et seq. - - DeWolf, Mark Antony, 44, 205 - - DeWolf family, 97 - - Dichaetin, Chief, 131 - - Distilleries, 26 - - Dogs, 152, 154, 157 - - Downing, Mrs., 97 - - Duddington, Thomas, 19 - - Duffel, 114 - - Duro, 187 - - - Ebbetts, Capt., 111 - - Eddy, George, 219, 266 - - Ellery, William, 285 - - Elliott, Francis, 220 - - Eustis, William, 214 - - - Fauque, Father, 45, 48 et seq. - - Fernald, Professor, 5 - - Ferry boats, 190 - - Foy, William, 102 - - Francis, prize ship, 218 - - Freydis, 8 - - - Gaspee, schooner, burned, 19 - - General Jackson, prize ship, 32, 220 - - General Wellesley, prize ship, 222 - - Gibsheet, Jack, 241 - - Goff, seaman, 248 - - Gorea, 18, 241 - - Grafton, Samuel, 221 - - Grand Sisters Islands, 255 - - Grant, Sueton, 44 - - Grapes, 5 - - Gray, Capt. David, 199 - - Gray, Capt. Robert, 111 - - Greene, Governor William, 49 - - Griswold, Bishop, 26 - - Gullifer, Sampson, 219 - - Gunnerson, George. 241, 244 - - Gunpowder Plot, 66 - - Guy Fawkes Day, 66 - - - Hampden, John, 11 - - Hanson, J., 102 - - Hardiman, Lieutenant, 225 - - Harris, L., 196 - - Hayman, Nathan, 14 - - Hetherington, A. B., 221 - - Hitchcock, 102 - - Holden, Andrew, 259, 260, 288 - - Holden, James, 260, 263, 264 - - Holmes, Capt. Bartlett, 229 - - Hooper, Joseph, 102 - - “Hop,” 7 - - Hopkins, Stephen, 10 - - Horsford, E. N., 2 - - Hunt, Thomas, 102 - - - Iceland Annals, 9 - - Image worship, 61 - - Ingraham, Ned, 228, 233, 237, 241 - - Inman, Capt. John, 272 - - Irkutsk, 181 - - Ivanah, Major Antony, 151 - - - Jack Jibsheet, 219, 221, 241 - - Jackson, Mate, 281, 284 - - James, Edward, 242 - - Japanese on Kurile Islands, 153 - - Jenckes, Capt. Wm. C., 221 - - Jenkins, Capt., 231 - - Jones, Abraham, 115 - - Jones, Edward, 248 - - Jones, John, 102 - - Jones, Noah, 225, 288 - - Jones, Thomas, 219, 220, 288 - - Juno, ship 101, - crew 102 - - - Kaluschians, 132 - - Kendall, Capt. Anthony Y., 251 - - Kendall, Capt. Robert, 278 - - Kip, Bishop W. I., 44 - - Kipp, William, 44 - - Koscheleff, Gov. General, 155 - - Korükin, 121 - - Koster, John, 234 235, 243 - - Krusenstern, Capt., 124 - - Kurile Islands, 153 - - Kutsnetsoff, 164, 192 - - - Lafayette, 24 - - Lage de la Landerie, 54 - - Langsdorff, Dr. George, 121, 127 et seq., 182, 201 - - Lariwanoff, Madame, 147 - - Leif Ericson, 3 - - Lewis, Joseph, 230, 234, 241 - - Lindegard, J. C., 263, 264 - - Lisiansky, Capt., 124, 125 - - - Macdonough, privateer, 212, 213, 214 - - Madina, Dr., 239 - - Mahoney, J., 102 - - Mary of Boston, 104, 105, 116, 120 - - Marshall, J., 102 - - Maschin, Andrew W., 121, 128 - - Mason, Aaron, 237 - - Massasoit, 9, 10, 11 - - Meades, Joseph, 288 - - Midget, Abner, 244 - - Miller, Dr. Caleb, 270, 288 - - Milton, Thomas, 219, 259 - - Mitchell, Henry, 238 - - Monthaup or Montop, 2 - - Moorfield, James, 102, 115, 123, 195 - - Morris, Watson, 237 - - Moscow, 192 et seq. - - Mount Hope Lands, 2, 13 - - Munro, Benjamin, 44 - - Murphy, T., 102 - - - Nantucket, 3 - - Narragansett pacers, 78 - - Nautical terms, 213 - - Newell, Samuel G., 102 - - Newettee, 109 - - Norseman’s Rock, 9 - - Norsemen, 2 - - - O’Connor, Mr., 253 - - Officers of the Yankee, 288 - - Oliver, Nathaniel, 13, 14 - - Oyapoc, 45 et seq., - Fort 92 - - - Parker, E. D., 102, 103, 165 - - Patterson, S., 102 - - Pearl of Boston, 111, 116 - - Peck, Lyman, 241 - - Perry, Rev. C. B., 97, 206 - - Perry, Com. M. C., 99 - - Perry, Com. O. H., 212 - - Pervoshka, 182 - - Petroff, Supt., 163 - - Philip, King 11, - monument 12 - - Phillips, Michael, 44 - - Phipps, W., 102 - - Pickens, Samuel, 257 - - Pitts, Thomas, 288 - - Plunder from Oyapoc, 46 - - Popes in Russia, 144 - - Popoff, 121 - - Porter, Capt., 116 - - Port Praya, 240 - - Potter, Jeffrey, 44, 46 - - Potter, Simeon, 19, 38, 206 - - Powers, J., 102 - - Prince Charles of Lorraine, wrecked, 43 - - Prizes of the Yankee, 286-7 - - Profits from privateering, 217 - - - Ramansoff, 196 - - Redding, William, 231, 240, 241 - - Religious revivals, 26, 27 - - Resanoff, Baron, 100, 121, 125, 153, 163 - - Rhode Island privateers, 42 - - “Rodelan” described, 59 - - Robinson, Capt. Andrew, 98 - - Royal Bounty, ship, 217 - - Russell, Thomas P., 217 - - Russian baptismal service, 158 - - Russian leave-takings, 189 - - Russian trading voyage to San Francisco, 138 - - - Sables at Irkutsk, 175 - - St. Michael’s Church, burned, 24 - - St. Michael’s Church, revivals in, 26 - - St. Thomas Island, 262 - - San Jose Indiano, prize, 220 - - Salsbury (or Salisberry), Daniel, 248, 264, 274 - - Schelikoff, pioneer, 125 - - Schitchachon, 132 - - Schooners, 98 - - Schoonerson, George, 238 - - Schwostoff, Nicholas, 121, 128, 153, 201 - - Settakroo, King, 254 - - Ship-building, 31 - - Simmons, Cyrus, 228, 230, 231, 234, 235, 237 - - Simonitch, Dementy, 186 - - Sitcha, habits, houses and fashions, 134, - climatic conditions, 137 - - Skraelings, 7 - - Slave trade, 16, 18, 206 et seq. - - Slocum, N. A., 260 - - Slocum, N. M., 266 - - Small-pox, 179 - - Smith, Bishop B. B., 21 - - Smith, John, 215, 220 - - Snorri Thorfinnson, 6 - - Snow, Elisha, 219-21, 244, 252, 263, 274 - - Starruk (Starruke), 153 - - Stetson, George W., 106, 123 - - Sturgis, Capt., 113 - - Stokes, J., 102 - - Sutherland, Capt. Stewart, 243, 253 - - Swan, Capt. Thomas, 21 - - Sweet, Capt. Manly, 217 - - Switchell or Switcher, Asa, 241, 244, 263, 264 - - - Tacking, 3 - - Tatton, D., 102 - - Tea drinking, 175 - - Thames, prize ship, 219 - - Thomas, James, 237, 241, 274, 275 - - Thomas, John A., 102 - - Thorfinn Karlsefni, 6 - - Thorvald Ericson, 5, 7 - - Tilley, Admiral B. F., 30 - - Tobacco benefits, 29 - - Tobolsk, 188 - - Tompenny, Capt. Robert, 253 - - Toole, Capt. Francis, 265 - - Trescott, Capt., 104 - - Tripp, W. H., 102 - - Turtles, 269 - - Tydeman, Capt. Jonathan, 258 - - Tyng, Rev. S. H., 28 - - Tyrker, 5 - - Usher, James 2d, 217 - - Usher, Sammy, 16 - - - Vancouver of Boston, 113, 116 - - Viking ships, 2 - - Vinland, 2, 5, 8 - - Vinson, John H., 260, 263, 264, 266, 276, 288 - - - Wallace, Capt. James, 21, 22 - - Walley, John, 13, 14 - - Wamsutta, 11 - - Wardwell, Henry, 221 - - Washington, George, 25 - - Water Witch, privateer, 212 - - Whales and whaling, 32, 143, 161 - - Wheeler, J., 102 - - Wheesner, J., 102 - - Whipple, Capt. Abraham, 20, 21 - - Whitehead, Charles B., 246 - - Whitmarsh, Jonathan, 243 - - Williams, Capt. Alfred, 239 - - Wilson, Capt. Oliver, 213, 217, 225 et seq. - - Wilson, Tom, 255 - - Wilson, Capt. Thomas, 226 - - Winship, Capt. Jonathan, 140 - - Winslow, Edward, 10, 11 - - Winter climate of Vinland, 4, 7 - - Wiopock, 45 - - - Yakutsk, 173 - - Yemshik, 184 - - Yermerk, 122 - - - Zelinzoff, 187 - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber’s note: - - Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been - corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within - the text and consultation of external sources. - - Footnote [10] is referenced from Footnote [9], and Footnote [18] - is referenced from Footnote [17]. - - Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text, - and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained. - - Pg 15: ‘the roof slooping’ replaced by ‘the roof sloping’. - Pg 58: ‘their sentinenls on’ replaced by ‘their sentinels on’. - Pg 68: ‘such senitments in’ replaced by ‘such sentiments in’. - Pg 69: ‘we would take me.’ replaced by ‘he would take me.’. - Pg 86: ‘who were prsioners’ replaced by ‘who were prisoners’. - Pg 88: ‘and fo this reason’ replaced by ‘and for this reason’. - Pg 128: ‘for science’ sake’ replaced by ‘for science’s sake’. - Pg 161: ‘then bade good by’ replaced by ‘then bade good-bye’. - Pg 172: ‘iunnmerable cattle’ replaced by ‘innumerable cattle’. - Pg 232: ‘left at Maderia’ replaced by ‘left at Madeira’. - Pg 232: ‘left Maderia an’ replaced by ‘left Madeira an’. - Pg 232: ‘and the scurvey’ replaced by ‘and the scurvy’. - Pg 246: ‘African crew, men’ replaced by ‘African crewmen’. - Pg 255: ‘Obs. 4, 17.’ replaced by ‘Obs. 4°17′.’. - Pg 256: ‘Lat. 4, 38.’ replaced by ‘Lat. 4°38′.’. - Pg 266: ‘N. M. Slocun’ replaced by ‘N. M. Slocum’. - Pg 272: ‘of Mayport,’ replaced by ‘of Maryport,’. - Pg 276: inserted missing header ‘118th Day Friday 12th Feb.’. - Index: ‘Kutsnettsoff’ replaced by ‘Kutsnetsoff’. - Index: ‘Lawarinoff’ replaced by ‘Lariwanoff’. - Index: ‘Schilchachon’ replaced by ‘Schitchachon’. - Index: ‘Sitka’ replaced by ‘Sitcha’. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT*** - - -******* This file should be named 64419-0.txt or 64419-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/4/1/64419 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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} - h3.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 110%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - h4.pgx { text-align: center; - clear: both; - font-weight: bold; - font-size: 100%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - word-spacing: 0em; - letter-spacing: 0em; - line-height: 1; } - hr.pgx { width: 100%; - margin-top: 3em; - margin-bottom: 0em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - height: 4px; - border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ - border-style: solid; - border-color: #000000; - clear: both; } - </style> -</head> -<body> -<h1 class="pgx" title="">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Tales of an Old Sea Port, by Wilfred Harold -Munro</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: Tales of an Old Sea Port</p> -<p> A General Sketch of the History of Bristol, Rhode Island, Including, Incidentally, an Account of the Voyages of the Norsemen, So Far as They May Have Been Connected with Narragansett Bay: and Personal Narratives of Some Notable Voyages Accomplished by Sailors from the Mount Hope Lands</p> -<p>Author: Wilfred Harold Munro</p> -<p>Release Date: January 30, 2021 [eBook #64419]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4 class="pgx" title="">E-text prepared by MFR, John Campbell,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (https://www.pgdp.net)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive<br /> - (https://archive.org)</h4> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/talesofoldseapor00munro - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<div class="transnote"> -<p><strong>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE</strong></p> - -<p>Footnote anchors are denoted by <span class="fnanchor">[number]</span>, -and the footnotes have been placed at the end of Part I, II and III.</p> - -<p>Basic fractions are displayed as ½ ⅓ ¼ etc; other fractions are shown -in the form a/b, for example 21/95.</p> - -<p>Display of Lat./Long. coordinates has been made consistent, with no -space between the values, but with a space before N/S/E/W if present, -for example 12°34′56″ N.</p> -<p>Changes to the text are noted at the <a href="#TN">end of the book.</a></p> -</div> -<hr class="pgx" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<h1 class="font-tall pg-brk">TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT</h1> - -<p class="blockquotx"> -A GENERAL SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BRISTOL, -RHODE ISLAND, INCLUDING, INCIDENTALLY, AN -ACCOUNT OF THE VOYAGES OF THE NORSEMEN, SO -FAR AS THEY MAY HAVE BEEN CONNECTED WITH -NARRAGANSETT BAY: AND PERSONAL NARRATIVES -OF SOME NOTABLE VOYAGES ACCOMPLISHED -BY SAILORS FROM THE MOUNT HOPE LANDS</p> - -<p class="p4 pfs70">BY</p> -<p class="pfs120">WILFRED HAROLD MUNRO</p> -<p class="p1 pfs60">OF BROWN UNIVERSITY</p> - -<p class="p6 pfs80">PRINCETON UNIVERSITY PRESS<br /> -PRINCETON</p> -<p class="pfs70">LONDON: HUMPHREY MILFORD<br /> -OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS</p> -<p class="p1 pfs70">1917</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="fs70 pg-brk"> -<p class="p10 pfs70">Copyright, 1917, by<br /> -<span class="smcap">Princeton University Press</span></p> - -<hr class="r5a" /> - -<p class="pfs70">Published November, 1917<br /> -Printed in the United States of America</p> -</div> - -<div class="figright illowe6_25" id="colophon"> - <img class="w100" src="images/colophon.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="p4 nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - -<table class="autotable" width="90%" summary=""> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"></td> -<td class="tdr fs70">PAGE</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Introduction: Old Bristol</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="tdl td-sp"><a href="#PART_I">Part I</a>—Simeon Potter and the Prince Charles of Lorraine</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl pad4">1—Simeon Potter</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl pad4">2—Letter of Father Fauque</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl td-sp"><a href="#PART_II">Part II</a>—Norwest John and the Voyage of the Juno</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl pad4">1—Norwest John</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl pad4">2—Voyage of the Juno</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl td-sp"><a href="#PART_III">Part III</a>—James de Wolf and the Privateer Yankee</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl pad4">1—James De Wolf</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_205">205</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl pad4">2—Journal of the Yankee</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_225">225</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl td-sp">Index</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_289">289</a></td> -</tr> -</table> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span><br /></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="p4 pfs150">TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT</p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION: OLD BRISTOL</h2> -</div> - - -<p>From the earliest days of the Plymouth Colony the name -Mount Hope Lands has been applied to the peninsula in -Narragansett Bay of which Bristol, Rhode Island, is the -chief town. The history of this town is more crowded with -notable incident than that of any other in New England. -First and most picturesque is the story of the Norsemen. -Around Mount Hope the legends of the Norsemen cluster, -shadowy, vague, elusive, and yet altogether fascinating. -Only legends they are and must remain.</p> - -<p>After the lapse of a thousand years of changing climates -and of varying shores no man can definitely locate the Vinland -of the Vikings. Many have attempted to do so, and, -like the late Professor E. N. Horsford,<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> have established -their theses to their own satisfaction and the satisfaction -of the present dwellers in <em>their</em> Vinland, but they have not -succeeded in convincing any one else. One of the latest -writers<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> approaching the subject without local prejudice, -and judging of the past by the ever changing present, will -have it that the physical conditions of the lands around -Narragansett Bay in the eleventh century were such as to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span> -make it more than probable that the “Hop” of the Norsemen -is the Mount Hope of today.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> In his conclusions all -good Bristolians, yea more, all good Rhode Islanders, cheerfully -join. Scandinavian writers insist that the name -“Mount Hope” is of Norse origin. They assert that it -is only an English spelling of the Indian name Montop, or -Monthaup, and they are probably correct in their assertion. -The Indians had no written language and our Pilgrim ancestors -spelled the Indian words as they pleased, sometimes -in half a dozen ways upon the same page. They go on to -say that the termination “hop” was the name which -Thorfinn and his companions gave to this region when -they wintered here in 1008, and they bring forward the -old Norse sagas to prove it. This is the story as the sagas -tell it:</p> - -<p>In the year of Our Lord 1000 the Norsemen first visited -the shores of Vinland. They came from Greenland, a hundred -years and more after their countrymen had discovered -and colonized Iceland. Their ship was an open boat from -fifty to seventy-five feet long, similar to the one dug from -the sands at Sandefjord, Norway, in 1880, which is preserved -in the museum of the university at Christiania. It -was propelled by oars and had a short mast amidships on -which was spread a small square sail. Both mast and sail -were used only when the wind was fair. They came creeping -along from headland to headland, seldom venturing -out of sight of land in the unfamiliar seas. The mariner’s -compass was then unknown, except perhaps to the Chinese, -and the art of propelling a boat against the wind by “tacking” -had not been developed, unless possibly by those same<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> -Chinese. It would have been impossible to tack in one of -the Viking ships. In the first place the sail area was too -small and in the second place the steering was all done from -one side. A long steering oar was fastened upon a fulcrum -about two feet long on the right side of the boat, the steer-board, -starboard side. On one tack the oar would have -been useless because submerged, on the other equally useless -because it could not go deep enough to “grip” the water. -To men accustomed to the icy Arctic seas, voyages southward -held out no terrors; they were only pleasant summer -excursions.</p> - -<p>Thirty-five men made up the party and their leader was -Leif Ericson. His purpose was to explore the coasts which -his countryman, Biarni Heriulfson, had seen several years -before, when in attempting to cross from Iceland to Greenland -adverse winds had driven him to lands lying far to -the south, possibly the island of Newfoundland. Leif was -sailing in Biarni’s ship which he had bought for the voyage. -The first shores sighted they conjectured to be those which -Biarni had seen. They offered no attractions. The explorers -called the country Helluland, the Land of Broad -Stones, and passed on to Markland, the Land of Woods, -which may have been Nova Scotia. A few more days -brought them to an island where they noticed a peculiar -sweetness in the dew. They may have been the first “Off -Islanders” to land upon Nantucket, which is noted for its -honey-dew. Following the coast they came to a place -“where a river flowed out of a lake.” The region was inviting -but the tide was low and the explorers were obliged -to wait until high water before they could pass over the -broad shallows into the lake beyond. Here they disembarked -and erected temporary habitations which soon gave<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span> -place to permanent dwellings when they determined to winter -at that place. The new houses were easily constructed -from the stones which abundantly covered the fields as they -do even to this day.</p> - -<p>The place seemed a paradise to the hardy voyagers. Fish -of many kinds leaped from the waters of the river and bay. -Salmon larger than any they had before seen were especially -abundant. Many wild animals roamed through the forests, -as the deer wander through the woods and pastures of -Rhode Island at the present time. The denizens of the -frigid zone rightly imagined that cattle might easily find -provender throughout the winter, in a climate so soft and -mild. They experienced no severe cold; “no snow fell and -the grass did not wither much.” They had chanced upon -one of the mild winters with which we are occasionally -favored. Three or four times in the last thirty years the -Mount Hope Lands have known seasons when there were -but few snow storms and those slight, seasons when in the -sheltered nooks of the forest the grass did not wither much. -The next party encountered “real New England weather,” -and doubtless objurgated Leif’s party for romancing concerning -the climate. “The equality in length of days was -greater than in Iceland or Greenland. On the shortest day -the sun remained above the horizon from 7.30 to 4.30.”<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> - -<p>The dwellings having been completed, Leif divided his -men into two parties in order to explore the country. One -party was to remain at home while the other went abroad, -and the exploring party was always to return at nightfall. -Especial charge was given the men to keep together. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span> -fear of the unknown was a marked characteristic of the -Dark Ages, even among the Norsemen who dreaded no -human foes. One of the party was a German, Tyrker by -name, a kind of foster father of Leif. He was missing -one night when the explorers came home and Leif at once -started in search of him with a party of twelve men. They -were soon met by Tyrker, whom they welcomed with great -joy. But the man acted most strangely. At first he spoke -only in German, his mother tongue, and rolled his eyes and -made strange facial contortions when they did not understand -what he said. After a time the Norse language came -back to him and he explained his queer behavior. He had -chanced upon some wild grapes and the memories his discovery -brought back were too much for him. Whether he -had found some of the fox-grapes which are still so common -in New England, or whether, as Professor Fernald -conjectures, the fruit was either a wild currant or a rock -cranberry, we can not know; but the adventurers were immensely -pleased at his discovery. They filled the “long -boat,” which was carried with them as a tender, with the -dried fruit, when in the early spring they returned to -Brattahlid, their home port. Because of the grapes the -name Vinland was given to the region.</p> - -<p>The return of Leif and the account his sailors gave -naturally caused intense excitement in that quiet community. -In the spring of 1002 Thorvald Ericson, taking -his brother’s ship and probably some of Leif’s crew as -guides, sailed on another voyage to Vinland. His object -was to make a more thorough exploration of the country. -Thirty men made up Thorvald’s party. Nothing is told -of their voyage until they reached Leif’s booths in Vinland. -There they laid up their ship and remained quietly through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span> -the winter, living by hunting and fishing. The next year -was spent in exploring the lands to the south. The second -summer they turned their steps northward and in this northern -expedition Thorvald was killed in a battle with the natives. -His comrades buried him on the headland where -he had proposed to settle. “There you shall bury me,” he -told them after he had received his death wound, “and place -a cross at my head and another at my feet, and the place -shall be called Crossness ever after.” The winter of 1004-5 -was passed in Leifsbooths gathering cargo for the return -voyage. In the spring they sailed back to Greenland carrying -large quantities of grapes as their companions had done. -Because of Thorvald’s death the accounts of his voyage -are probably more meagre than they otherwise would have -been.</p> - -<p>In 1007 the most important of the Norse expeditions -sailed from Greenland. Its leader was Thorfinn Karlsefni. -Thorfinn was both seaman and merchant. Sailing from -Iceland to Greenland on a trading voyage, he had wintered -at Brattahlid and there married his wife Gudrid. Naturally -there had been much talk of Vinland the Good during the -long Arctic winter and in the spring an expedition to explore -the new country was fitted out. It consisted of three -ships manned by one hundred and sixty men. With it went -Gudrid and six other women, for it was proposed to colonize -the land. Thorfinn spent the winter amid great hardships, -caused by cold and lack of food, on what may have been -one of the islands of Buzzard’s Bay. There his son Snorri -was born, as far as we know the first child of European -parents born upon the shores of the American continent. -In the spring, coming at last to the place “where a river -flowed down from the land into a lake and then into the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span> -sea,” they waited for the high tide, as Leif had done, sailed -into the mouth of the river and called the place Hop.<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> On -the lowlands about them were self-sown fields of grain; -on the high ground the wild grapes grew in great profusion. -Deer and other wild animals roamed through the forests. -The brooks as well as the bay were filled with fish. They -dug pits upon the beach before the high tide came and when -the tide fell the pits were leaping with fish. Just so today -flounders may be caught along the Narragansett shores. -The booths that Leif’s party had put up could not accommodate -the new comers and additional houses were built -inland above the lake. No snow fell during the winter. -The cattle they had brought with them needed no protection -and lived by grazing. None of the privations of the -previous winter were experienced, and all things went well -until the Skraelings, or natives, appeared. At first the -Skraelings came only for trading. They wished to exchange -skins for goods, being especially anxious to obtain -little strips of scarlet cloth, and willingly giving a whole -skin for the smallest strip. The Norsemen benevolently -attempted to satisfy the desires of all by tearing the cloth -into smaller and yet smaller pieces as the supply diminished. -While the bartering was going on one of the bulls Thorfinn -had brought with him appeared upon the scene, bellowing -loudly. Thereupon the savages rushed to their canoes and -paddled away as quickly as possible. A month later they -reappeared, this time not to barter but to fight. In the -combat that followed two Northmen fell and many of the -Skraelings were killed. This battle convinced Thorfinn<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span> -that the lands though excellent in quality would be undesirable -for a colony by reason of the hostility of the natives. -He therefore turned his keels northward and returned to -Greenland in 1010.</p> - -<p>From this time expeditions to Vinland to procure grapes -and timber became frequent. Because they had lost their -novelty they ceased to be chronicled. As the saga puts it, -“they were esteemed both lucrative and honorable.” One -noteworthy one is given in the “Antiquitates Americanae,” -that of Freydis and her husband Thorvald. The tale of -Freydis is a grewsome one. She seems to have been entirely -lacking in human sensibilities. Her husband murdered -in cold blood all the men of a party that had opposed -him but he spared their five women. Freydis seized an axe -and brained them all. Possibly their mangled remains may -have been buried at the foot of Mount Hope.</p> - -<p>Other mention of Vinland is found apart from the Icelandic -chronicles. Adam of Bremen in his “Historia -Ecclesiastica,” published in 1073, describes Iceland and -Greenland and then goes on to say that there is another -country far out in the ocean which has been visited by many -persons, and which is called Vinland because of the grapes -found there. In Vinland, he says, corn grows without -cultivation, as he learns from trustworthy Norse sources. -This must of course have been the Indian corn, a grain -that is hardly possible of cultivation in Europe north of -the Alps.</p> - -<p>The people of Iceland were more given to the writing -of chronicles than were those of the countries of Europe, -but unhappily Iceland was a land of volcanoes and eruptions -were not infrequent. An eruption of Mount Hecla in 1390 -buried several of the neighboring estates beneath its ashes.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span> -Perhaps under those ashes may be lying other sagas that -may at some time be brought again to light, as in the case -of the scrolls of Pompeii. Mention of the lands that Leif -discovered is found in the “Annals of Iceland” as late as -1347. The last Bishop of Greenland was appointed in the -first decade of the fifteenth century and since that time the -colony has never been heard of. Ruins of its houses may -still be seen, but of the fate of those who dwelt in them we -know nothing.</p> - -<p>One witness there still may be to testify to the Norse -visits. About thirty-five years ago a rock known by tradition -but lost sight of for half a century was rediscovered -on the shores of Mount Hope Bay. Upon it is rudely carved -the figure of a boat with what may have been a Runic inscription -beneath it. The writing was surely not graven -by English hands and the Indians had no written language. -May not the strange carving have been made by the axe -of a Norseman? It is not remarkable that the rock was -lost sight of for so many years. The inscription is inconspicuous -and the rock is like hundreds of others along the -shore. Moreover it was sometimes covered by the high -tides of spring and fall. It has recently been removed to -a more conspicuous position and may ere long be protected -by a fence from the vandalism of the occasional tourist.</p> - -<p>Fact and not fancy characterizes the Indian history of -the Mount Hope Lands. First upon the scene steps Massasoit, -“Friend of the White Man,” ruler of all the region -when the Pilgrims of the Mayflower landed upon the shores -of Plymouth. Like all the Indian sachems, Massasoit had -many places of residence. He moved from one to another -as the great barons of the Middle Ages moved from one -castle to another, and for the same reason. When provisions<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span> -became scarce in one place a region where they were -more plentiful was sought. One of his villages was unquestionably -upon the slope of Mount Hope. Not many -weeks after the landing of the Pilgrims Massasoit had paid -them a visit in their new settlement. In July, 1621, Edward -Winslow and Stephen Hopkins were sent by Governor Bradford -to return the visit. Of what happened to this “embassy” -and to a second sent some two years later, Winslow -presented a very full account, which may be read in very -nearly all of the histories of the period. It is one of the -most trustworthy and valuable pictures of Indian royal -state that have come down to us from colonial days. Winslow -found Massasoit occupying a wigwam only a little -larger than those of his subjects. The sleeping place was -a low platform of boards covered with a thin mat. On this -bed, says Winslow, Massasoit placed his visitors, with himself -and his wife at one end and the Englishmen at the -other, and two more of Massasoit’s men passed by and upon -them, so that they were worse weary of the lodging than -of the journey. As the sachem had not been apprised of -Winslow’s projected visit, he had made no provisions for -his entertainment. No supper whatsoever was secured that -night, and not until one o’clock of the next afternoon was -food to be had. Then two large fish, which had just been -shot (with arrows, of course), were boiled and placed before -the sachem’s guests, now numbering forty or more -besides the two Englishmen.</p> - -<p>In 1623 tidings reached Plymouth that Massasoit was -sick and likely to die. Edward Winslow was therefore -sent to visit him a second time. With him went a young -English gentleman who was wintering at Plymouth and -who desired much to see the country. His name was John<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span> -Hampden, a name destined to become famous wherever the -English language was spoken. The great John Hampden -was born in 1594. He would have been twenty-nine years -old at this time. He had as yet done nothing whatever to -make himself famous and was a comparatively inconspicuous -man, notwithstanding the prominent position his family -had held for centuries in England. There is no record of -his presence in England at this time. Like Oliver Cromwell -he may have been considering a residence in America -among men of his own religious faith, and for this reason -may have made a preliminary visit to this country. Green, -discussing in his “History of the English People” Cromwell’s -scheme for emigrating to America, says: “It is more -certain that John Hampden purchased a tract of land on -the Narragansett.” Most important of all, the name of -John Hampden appears in the list of the Charter Members -of the Colony of Connecticut.</p> - -<p>As long as he lived Massasoit remained the firm friend -of the colonists. Upon his death, in 1662, his son Wamsutta -(or Alexander) headed the Wampanoag tribe for a -year, and then came Philip, Massasoit’s second son. Philip -was a foe to the white men, made such by English treatment -of his tribe. He was one of the ablest Indian leaders -this country has produced, a wonderful organizer, a skillful -diplomatist. From tribe to tribe he journeyed, inducing -them to rest from their interminable wars and to turn their -weapons against the common enemy of all. But for an -accident which caused hostilities to begin a little while before -the year (1676) Philip had fixed upon, the colonists -would have been swept from the land. The war began in -1675, and Capt. Benjamin Church, the conqueror of Philip, -wrote an account of it. Benjamin Church was one of our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> -greatest “Indian fighters.” He had lain in their wigwams, -he had studied their character. Naturally and inevitably -he came at last to the leadership of the colonial forces. -When Philip’s plans had all come to naught, the Wampanoag -sachem came back to Mt. Hope, to make his last -stand and to die. Death came to him from a bullet fired -by one of his own men who had taken service in Capt. -Church’s company. In 1876, on the two hundredth anniversary -of his death, the Rhode Island Historical Society, -with appropriate ceremonies, placed a boulder monument -on the top of Mt. Hope, with this inscription:</p> - -<p class="p1 pfs70"> -KING PHILIP, AUGUST 12, 1676. O. S.</p> - -<p>Beside Cold Spring on the west side of the hill a massive -block of granite records that</p> - -<p class="p1 pfs70"> -IN THE MIERY SWAMP 166 FEET W. S. W. FROM THIS SPRING,<br /> -ACCORDING TO TRADITION, KING PHILIP FELL,<br /> -AUGUST 12, 1676. O. S.<br /> -</p> - -<p>The Mt. Hope lands should have fallen to Plymouth by -right of conquest, as they were included in the territory -originally granted to that colony. But both the Colony -of Massachusetts Bay and the Colony of Rhode Island and -Providence Plantations claimed a portion of the spoils. So -delegates of the several colonies were sent to argue the -case before Charles II. Singularly enough another claimant -appeared in the person of John Crowne, a poet. Crowne -was a native of Nova Scotia. His father had purchased -a large tract of land in that country which had become practically -valueless because of the cession of Nova Scotia to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span> -the French. He therefore asked that the small tract of -land which had lately come into English possession should -be turned over to him as a compensation. But Mt. Hope, -though belonging to the English Crown, was not to be -Crowne land. The Plymouth Colony agents claimed that -the tract, comprising almost 7000 acres, part of it good -soil and much of it rocky, mountainous and barren, for -which they had fought and bled, should be awarded to -them, more especially because it would afford to them the -seaport which they lacked. Their arguments were convincing -and the land was awarded to Plymouth by special -grant, January 12, 1680. The king among other things -demanded a quit rent annually of seven beaver skins. No -other royal grant was made of conquered lands, but conflicting -claims necessitated this.</p> - -<p>Plymouth Colony at once placed the lands on the market, -and September 14, 1680, sold them for $1,100 to four men -of Boston, John Walley, Nathaniel Byfield, Stephen Burton -and Nathaniel Oliver. The first three of these became -residents of the town they founded. Of them, Byfield was -the ablest and most distinguished. He came of good stock. -His father was of the Westminster Assembly of Divines. -His mother was sister of Juxon, bishop of London and -later archbishop of Canterbury, who was a personal friend -of Charles I, and attended that ill fated monarch upon the -scaffold. Byfield was the wealthiest of the settlers. He -had one residence upon Poppasquash near the head of that -peninsula, and one upon what is now Byfield Street in the -south part of the town. He was a man of unusual ability -and large wealth. He was also a man of great liberality -in all his dealings with the town. His public service was -continuous and distinguished. His liberal mind resisted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span> -the insane fanaticism of the people during their delusion -on the subject of witchcraft, and in his will he left a bequest -“to all and every minister of Christ of every denomination -in Boston.” He lived forty-four years in Bristol, -only leaving the town when his advanced age made the -greater comforts of Boston necessary.</p> - -<p>John Walley was also of good stock, his father being -rector of one of the London churches. In 1690 he commanded -the land forces of William Phipps in the expedition -against Canada. He also, in his old age, was forced by -disease to seek a more luxurious abode in Boston. Stephen -Burton was said to have been a graduate of Oxford. He -was undoubtedly the most scholarly man of the four proprietors. -Oliver, a rich Bostonian, never resided in Bristol -but sold his share to Nathan Hayman, another wealthy -Boston merchant.</p> - -<p>With men like these as sponsors for the new settlement, -it was not difficult to secure settlers. The most noted among -them was Benjamin Church, the Indian fighter already mentioned. -Capt. Church built a house upon Constitution -Street. (Church Street was not named in his honor. Upon -that street stood the edifice which gave it its name, the -building in which the members of the Church of England -worshipped. There were many streets named for a like -reason in colonial days.) He was the first representative -of the town in the general court of Plymouth Colony and -was many times elected to public office. In his later years -he made his home in Little Compton, whence many of his -descendants drifted back to Bristol. Because the town was -to be the seaport of Plymouth Colony, many of the descendants -of the Mayflower Pilgrims naturally came to dwell -within its borders. In choosing Bristol for its name, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span> -settlers cherished a hope that, as in the case of its English -namesake, it would become the great city upon the west. -Boston on the east shore was the London of Massachusetts.</p> - -<p>The new town was laid out on a liberal scale, with side -streets crossing each other at right angles, and a spacious -“common” in the center of the settlement. The grand -articles stipulated that all houses should be two stories -high, with not less than two good rooms on a floor. As -most of the settlers could not well spare the time, if they -had the means, for building a house with four rooms upon -a floor, the “camelopard” type of dwelling was much in -evidence. This presented a goodly appearance to the eye -of him who stood directly in front, but degenerated greatly -when one shifted his position, <ins class="corr" id="tn-15" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'the roof slooping'"> -the roof sloping</ins> severely -and persistently down to a woodpile. One chimney was -deemed sufficient for a house. We should deem such a one -more than sufficient. If of brick it was about fourteen feet -square; if of stone, about twenty feet. All the chimneys -had immense fireplaces, into which a man could sometimes -walk without stooping, and all were admirably adapted to -keep a house cold. The rooms were abominably drafty, -and the high backed settle was an absolute necessity. A -great pile of logs might be blistering the faces while the -snow was drifting in through the cracks upon the backs.</p> - -<p>The first house built is still standing just north of the -town bridge. Deacon Nathaniel Bosworth was its builder, -an ancestor of those who own it today. Only the southwestern -part of the present structure was the work of Deacon -Bosworth. The best house was naturally that of Byfield. -It was two stories high, with a barn roof, and was -nearly square, thirty by thirty-eight feet. It was torn down -in 1833, and a hard job the destroyers had. The chimney<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span> -stood in the center of the house. It was built of imported -bricks held together by mortar mixed with shell lime. This -mortar had become hard as stone. When the chimney was -overthrown it fell to the ground almost unbroken, as an -oak tree would fall. Byfield had another house at the head -of the harbor on Poppasquash. In each room were deep -fireplaces, across which ran an oaken beam a foot square. -One winter morning the owner of the house was surprised, -when he came down stairs, to find the house even colder -than usual. The front door was open and the floor was -covered with snow drifts. As the door was never locked -the phenomenon interested him but little, and he hastened -out to feed his cattle. One ox was missing and the farmer -went back to the house to organize a searching party, but -as he opened the door and turned his eyes toward the fireplace, -he changed his plans. There lay the huge creature -tranquilly chewing the cud of complete contentment. It -had found the door ajar, pushed it open and established -itself comfortably upon the still warm ashes.</p> - -<p>The town was founded for “purposes of trade and commerce” -and early its sails began to whiten the seas. Naturally -the first commerce was coastwise only. Then vessels -sought the ports of the West Indies and Spanish Main, -laden most frequently with that bulb whose fragrance lingers -longest in the nostrils, the onion. The culture of this -vegetable was one of the three things for which the town -was noted for more than two centuries.</p> - -<p>There once dwelt in Bristol a man named Sammy Usher, -who was noted for his irascibility not less than for his caustic -tongue. One day a visitor from Brown University was -introduced to him. This young man, though a sophomore, -was yet somewhat fresh, and Sammy did not like him. He<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span> -said, “Mr. Usher, I hear that Bristol is noted for three -things, its geese, girls and onions. What do you do with -them all?” “Oh,” said Usher, “we marry our girls as soon -as they grow up, we ship our onions to Cuba, and we send -our geese to college.” The first recorded shipment, however, -was not of onions. November 6, 1686, Byfield placed -a number of his horses on board the Bristol Merchant bound -for Surinam. Possibly they may have been of the Narragansett -pacer breed for which the south county was so long -famous. Very early in the town’s history, sails were turned -to the coast of Africa. The voyage was the most hazardous -that could be taken, but the returns from a successful venture -were enormous. There was profit on each leg of the -voyage. The first leg was from the home port, with the -hold filled with casks of New England rum and small crates -of trinkets. One cask was ordinarily enough to secure a -slave, but before the cargo was complete, all hands were -likely to be down with coast fever. When the crew were -again strong enough to work the vessel, the “middle passage” -to the West Indies was made, and the live freight, -which had been handled with as great care as are the cattle -on the Atlantic transports today, was exchanged for casks -of molasses. Then came the last leg of the voyage. The -molasses was carried to Bristol to be converted into rum. -This trade the town shared with Newport and Providence.</p> - -<p>No stigma whatever was attached to the slave traffic as -carried on in the seventeenth century and for the greater -part of the eighteenth. The voyages, while always dangerous, -were not always profitable. The vessels engaged -in them were ordinarily small; sometimes they were sloops -of less than a hundred tons. A fleet of them could be -stowed away in the hold of a Lusitania. They had to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span> -small and of light draft in order to run up the shallow rivers -to whose banks their human cargo was driven. Lying at -anchor in the stifling heat, with no wind to drive away the -swarming insect life, the deadly coast fever would descend -upon a ship, and, having swept away half its crew, leave -those who survived too weak to hoist the sails. The captains -were, for the most part, God fearing men, working -hard to support their families at home. One piously informs -his owners that “we have now been twenty days -upon the coast and by the blessing of God shall soon have -a good cargo.” The number of negroes taken on board a -ship was never large until the trade was declared to be -piratical. Then conditions changed horribly. It did not -pay to take more on board than could be delivered in the -West Indies in prime condition. They were not packed -more closely than were the crews of the privateers of whom -we shall read later on.</p> - -<p>Naturally not a few slaves found their way to Bristol. -When the first slave was brought there we do not know. -Nathaniel Byfield, in his will, gives directions for the disposition -of his “negro slave Rose, brought to Bristol from -the West Indies in the spring of 1718.” Quickly they became -numerous. The census of 1774 records 114 blacks -in a total population of 1209, almost one-tenth. At first -they lived on the estates of their owners, and were known -by his name, if they had any surname. After the Revolutionary -War, when slavery had been abolished (mainly -because it was unprofitable), they gathered into a district -by themselves on the outskirts of the town. This region -was called “Gorea” from that part of the coast of Africa -with which the slave traders were most familiar. It continued -to be known as such until the buildings of the great<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span> -rubber works crowded it out of existence in the early ’70s -of the last century.</p> - -<p>Naturally and inevitably the town became involved in -the contest that resulted in the independence of America. -The affair of the Gaspee was the first in which her people -participated. The Gaspee was an armed schooner stationed -in Narragansett Bay for the prevention of smuggling. -Smuggling was as much in vogue in American waters as -in the waters surrounding the British Isles, and was regarded -with no more disfavor in one case than in the other. -The commander of the vessel was Lieutenant Thomas Duddington, -a man who was entirely lacking in tact, and who -carried himself with such haughty arrogance as to make -himself most obnoxious. One day while chasing one of -the packet sloops that plied between New York and Providence, -he ran aground on Namquit (now Gaspee) Point. -His “chase” escaped and carried the joyful tidings of his -plight to Providence. At once drummers were sent through -the streets proclaiming the situation of the vessel, and calling -for volunteers to destroy her before the next high tide. -Eight long boats were furnished by John Brown, the leading -merchant of the town, which were quickly filled by a -rejoicing band. No attempt at disguise was made by those -who took part in the expedition, but the oars were muffled -to enable the boats to make the attack without being seen. -As they drew near the vessel, a little after midnight, they -were joined by a whaleboat containing a party from Bristol -under the command of Captain Simeon Potter.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> - -<p>Their approach was discovered by the watch upon the -Gaspee, and as the boats dashed forward they were fired<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span> -upon from the schooner. The fire was at once returned -by the attacking party, and the vessel was boarded and -captured after a short but desperate struggle. In this struggle -Lieutenant Duddington was wounded, though not seriously. -The crew were captured, bound and set on shore. -The vessel was set on fire and completely destroyed. Then, -having been entirely successful in their expedition, the -boats rowed joyfully homeward. Those who took part in -the exploit made no effort to conceal it and some of them -even boasted of what they had done. The British Government -at once offered a large reward for information that -would lead to the conviction of the bold offenders. Some -of them were among the foremost men in the Colony and -almost every one knew their names, the name of Abraham -Whipple especially being on the lips of all the people, but -no man of any character could be found to testify against -them and none of them were ever brought to trial. The -affair took place on June 10, 1772. It was the first contest -in which British blood was shed in an expedition openly -organized against the forces of the mother country, and -it differed from all the other preliminary encounters because -of the character of those engaged in it. Other outbreaks -were the work of an irresponsible mob. Crispus Attucks, -for instance, who fell in the so called Boston Massacre, was -a mulatto and the men whom he led were of his type. But -some of the leading men of Rhode Island sat on the thwarts -of the nine boats, and their boldness seems almost incredible -to us of the present day. It shows that while public sentiment -at Newport and New York and the other great seats -of commerce along the coast may have favored the king, -the people of the Providence Plantations were already prepared -to sever their relations with England.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span></p> - -<p>The only “lyric” to commemorate the affair came from -the pen of Captain Thomas Swan of Bristol, one of those -who took part in it. His effusion has never appeared in -any history of American literature, for good and sufficient -reasons, but it is printed in full in Munro’s “History of -Bristol.” The participation of the Bristol men in the Gaspee -affair is often denied by “out of town” people. I have no -doubt respecting the matter. My own grandmother, born -in 1784, the daughter of a soldier of the Revolution who -was born in 1762 and lived until 1821, and whose grandfather, -born in 1731, lived until 1817, firmly believed in it. -She had had opportunities for talking the subject over with -two generations who were living on June 10, 1772.</p> - -<p>In January, 1881, Bishop Smith of Kentucky, born in -Bristol in 1794 and a graduate of Brown in 1816, wrote to -me calling my attention to a slight difference between the -“Swan Song,” as I had given it in my “History of Bristol,” -and a version pasted upon the back of a portrait of Thomas -Swan’s father by Thomas Swan himself. Capt. Swan was -Bishop Smith’s uncle. The Bishop wrote, “I should not -have troubled you on so inconsiderable a point had not the -tradition in our family been that <em>the Bristol boat was -manned by men in the disguise of Narragansett Indians</em>.”</p> - -<p>When Bishop Smith penned those lines several men were -living in Bristol who had heard the story from Captain -Swan’s own lips. He delighted in telling it and was accustomed -to give the names of Bristol participants. Those -names had unhappily escaped the memory of his auditors. -The correspondence on the subject of the Gaspee, which -occurred during the Revolutionary War between Abraham -Whipple and Captain Sir James Wallace, the commander -of the British naval forces in Narragansett Bay, is worthy -of another reproduction:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span></p> - -<p>Wallace to Whipple:</p> - -<p>“You, Abraham Whipple, on the 10th June, 1772, burned -his Majesty’s vessel, the Gaspee, and I will hang you at the -yard arm.—James Wallace.”</p> - -<p>Whipple to Wallace:</p> - -<p>“To Sir James Wallace; Sir; Always catch a man before -you hang him.—Abraham Whipple.”</p> - -<p>On October 7, 1775, the town was bombarded by a British -fleet. The squadron consisted of three ships of war, one -bomb brig, one schooner and some smaller vessels, fifteen -sail in all. They had sailed up from Newport under the -command of Sir James Wallace. A boat’s crew was sent -on shore to demand sheep from the town. As they were -not forthcoming, the boat returned to the ship and shortly -afterward the whole fleet began “a most heavy cannonading, -heaving also shells and ‘carcasses’ into the town.” (Carcasses -were vessels bound together with hoops and filled -with combustibles.) Singularly enough, no one was killed, -though many buildings were struck by balls. The next -morning the sheep demanded were furnished and the fleet -sailed away. An epidemic of dysentery was raging at the -time, seventeen persons having died within a fortnight; -and the fact that at least one hundred sick persons would -have to be removed if the cannonading was resumed influenced -the town committee to provide the supply demanded. -One life, however, went out because of the -bombardment. The Rev. John Burt, the aged pastor of the -Congregational Church, had for a long time been sick and -feeble. When the air was filled with missiles he fled from -his house, no one seeing him, and wandered away, weak -and bewildered. The next morning, as he did not appear -in the meeting house at the hour of service, his congregation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span> -went out to seek him. They found at last him lying -dead upon his face in a field of ripened corn.</p> - -<p>About three years later, on Sunday, May 25, 1778, most -of the houses in the center of the town were burned by -the British. Five hundred British and Hessian soldiers -landed on the “West Shore,” marched quickly through Warren -to the Kickamuit River, and there burned seventy or -more flat-boats that had been gathered together by the colonists -for the purpose of making an expedition against the -enemy. The raiders set fire to some buildings in Warren -and then proceeded along the main road to Bristol, making -prisoners of the men found in the farm houses standing -near the highway. A force of perhaps three hundred militia -had been hastily gathered at Bristol to oppose them. But, -as is almost always the case, the number of the marauding -troops was greatly exaggerated and the American commanding -officer did not deem himself strong enough to -oppose them. Withdrawing in the direction of Mount Hope -he left the town to their mercy. The torch was first applied -to Parson Burt’s house, which stood near the Congregational -Meeting House.</p> - -<p>Mr. Burt had died during the bombardment, as has been -before related, but he had been fearless in his denunciation -of royal tyranny during his life and his house was burned -as a warning. Then the other buildings southward along -the main street were set on fire, including the residence of -Deputy Governor Bradford, this last being the finest house -in town. One of the Governor’s negro servants had just -begun his dinner when he saw the flames bursting forth. -He was quite equal to the occasion. Running to the burying -ground on the Common, not far away, he seated himself, -frying pan in hand, upon a tombstone and calmly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span> -finished his meal. Thirty or more buildings were burned, -among them being the edifice of the Church of England, -Saint Michael’s Church. This last structure was destroyed -through a mistake, the incendiaries supposing that they were -burning the Dissenters’ Meeting House. The sexton of -Saint Michael’s refused to believe that his church was -burned. “It can’t be,” he said, “for I have the key in my -pocket.” From this time until the close of the war the -tread of marching feet was heard almost daily. The soldiers, -however, were only militiamen summoned hastily -together to defend their homes. They were poorly drilled -and still more poorly armed, the kind of soldier that springs -to arms at an instant’s call. The immediate danger having -passed, they returned to their farms and their workshops.</p> - -<p>Until October 25, 1779, when the British forces left Newport, -the fortunes of those who dwelt upon the Mount Hope -Lands were hazardous in the extreme. Lafayette had established -his headquarters in the north part of the town but -was soon forced to remove them to “a safer place behind -Warren.” The peninsula was so easily accessible that raids -upon its shores were frequent. One result of the marauding -expeditions was the cutting down of the forests that had -lined the shores of Narragansett Bay. This was especially -notable in the case of the island of Prudence, just at the -mouth of Bristol harbor. Today the island is almost treeless, -no attempt at reforestation having been made. The -people of Bristol were wise in their generation and now -from the harbor the town seems to nestle in a forest.</p> - -<p>The winter of 1779-80 was one of the most severe ever -known in the Colonies. For six weeks the bay was frozen -from shore and the ice extended far out to sea. Wood -in most of the towns sold for $20 a cord. The prices of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span> -all kinds of provisions soared in like manner. Corn sold -for four silver dollars a bushel and potatoes for two dollars. -What their prices were in the depreciated Rhode Island -paper currency we can only imagine. While the bay was -still frozen some of the barracks on Poppasquash, that had -been used by the French allies, were moved across the harbor -on the ice. One of them is still used as a dwelling -house. It stands on the west side of High Street just north -of Bradford. From 1774 to 1782 the population of the -town decreased 14.6 per cent. More noteworthy still, in -that same period the percentage of decrease in the case of -the blacks was more than thirty per cent.</p> - -<p>In 1781 the town was first honored by the presence of -George Washington. He passed through it on his way to -Providence. It was a great day for the people of the place. -They all turned out to greet the hero, standing in double -lines as he rode through the streets. “Marm” Burt’s school -children were especially in evidence. This lady was the -widow of the Parson Burt who had died during the bombardment. -She had sustained herself since her husband’s -death by keeping a “dame’s school.” To impress the occasion -upon the minds of her pupils she made them learn -these lines:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="verse indentq">“In seventeen hundred and eighty-one</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I saw General Washington.”</div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Imagine the General’s emotions as he heard them singing -the verse, at the top of their voices of course, as he passed.</p> - -<p>Washington afterward made several visits to the town. -In 1793 he spent a week at the home of Governor Bradford, -at “the Mount,” Bradford being then a member of -the United States Senate. The Bradford house is still -standing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span></p> - -<p>Rhode Island was the last of the “Old Thirteen” to adopt -the Federal Constitution. Then as always she chafed at the -domination of Massachusetts. Because Bristol had been a -part of Massachusetts before it became a part of Rhode -Island it was still greatly influenced by the ideas of the -“Bay Colony.” When in 1788 the question of adopting -the Constitution was submitted to the people of Rhode -Island, Bristol and Little Compton (which had also been -a part of Massachusetts) were the only towns in which -a majority in favor of the adoption was obtained. A great -celebration took place in 1790 when the State became a -member of the United States of America.</p> - -<p>At once the energy which had lain dormant during the -Revolutionary War revived. Commerce again became active. -Evidence of this was manifested by the building of -new distilleries. One, erected by the leading firm of ship -owners, was opened in 1792. They were preparing for -a renewal of the trade with Africa. For thirty-five years -thereafter two hundred gallons of rum were here each day -distilled. At one time five distilleries were in active operation. -The last of them closed its doors in 1830, the business -having ceased to be profitable.</p> - -<p>In the first quarter of the last century two great religious -revivals transformed the town. They began in Saint -Michael’s Church in the rectorship of Bishop Griswold. -The town then numbered about two thousand inhabitants, -almost all of whom were more or less connected with the -sea. The first among the laymen to take part in the movement -was a sea captain who had just returned from a voyage -to the Island of Trinidad. Before he left Bristol, the unwonted -fervor of Bishop Griswold’s sermons and discourses -had turned his thoughts toward the attainment of the holier<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span> -and higher life, whose glories the bishop was ever placing -before his people. The awful solemnity of the ocean had -completed the lesson. On Saturday night he returned from -his voyage. The next day, when the bishop had finished -his sermon, the emotions that stirred the soul of the sailor -entirely overcame the modesty that usually kept him back -from the public notice. Rising from his seat, he went forward -to the old wine-glass pulpit in which the preacher was -yet standing, and conversed with him earnestly for a few -moments, while the congregation looked on with amazement -at the unusual interruption. With that benignant -smile which marked his gentle nature, Bishop Griswold -assented to the request that was preferred; and placing his -hand upon the shoulder of the eager enthusiast, he turned -to the congregation and said: “My friends, Captain —— -wishes to tell you what the Lord has done for his soul.” -Then the quiet sailor told the congregation the story of -the change that had been wrought in him; told it without -a thought of the unusual part he was assuming; told it in -the simplest words, with no attempt at eloquence or effect, -but with the wondrous power of God’s love so plainly before -his eyes that the minds of all his hearers went with -him upon the sea, and felt the struggle which had brought -his soul out of darkness into light. Never, even, had the -inspired words of their pastor stirred the people of St. -Michael’s Church more strongly. When he ceased there -was hardly a dry eye in the congregation. Only a few -well chosen words did the bishop add to intensify the lesson, -and then dismissed his people with the usual benediction.</p> - -<p>From that day the revival became general. Through the -town it spread, until the minds of all were turned to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span> -thoughts of the life that was to come. The sound of the -workman’s hammer was unheard for a season, the horses -stood idle in their stalls, the noise of merry laughter ceased -as the crowds of serious worshippers poured onward to -the churches. For days these remarkable scenes were to -be witnessed; their effect could be observed for years.</p> - -<p>The second revival came in 1820. Like the first it began -in Saint Michael’s Church. It lasted for about three months. -The first meeting was held in a private house. The Rev. -Dr. Stephen H. Tyng, writing sixty years later, said: “It -was with unbounded surprise that I went into the house -at the hour appointed. It was crowded in every room, -staircase and entry, as if some unusually crowded funeral -were there. But for ministering to this people, hungry for -the bread of life, I was there alone. They had placed a -Bible and Prayer-book on the first landing of the stairs. -The people were crowded above me and below me, as far -as my eye could reach, in the most eager attention to the -Word. It was the most solemn assembly I had ever seen, -and its impression upon my mind and memory was overwhelming -and abiding. But this was the commencement -of months of work of a similar description, and from this -day we had a similar meeting appointed for every evening. -These were held in various rooms and houses throughout -the town. The evening meetings were usually held in the -Academy Hall. My whole time for about three months -was given up to this one work. Three times every day -I was engaged in addressing different assemblies in different -parts of the town and of the surrounding country, and in -conversing with awakened and anxious persons connected -with these meetings. Such a scene in human society as -Bristol then displayed, I had never imagined. The whole<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span> -town was given up to this one work. The business of the -world was for a time suspended. The stores were in many -instances closed, as if the whole week were a Sabbath.”</p> - -<p>As in the former case the work spread through all the -churches. Crowds came from surrounding towns to gaze -upon the remarkable spectacle the town afforded. Such -revivals would now be impossible. The busy manufacturing -town of today would pay slight attention to exhortations -to which the ears that were accustomed to tales of -horrible disaster upon the ocean lent ready attention. Moreover, -the descendants of the old colonial stock are comparatively -few in number, and the new foreign element which -forms the great majority of the population is not to be -moved by religious appeals as were those whose lives were -dominated by Puritan traditions.</p> - -<p>The maritime element always furnished the most picturesque -part of the Bristol story. Until half a century ago -the boys of the town had the names of the famous ships -and the exploits of the most famous captains at the tongue’s -end. The most noted captains were Simeon Potter, John -De Wolf and James De Wolf, of whom detailed accounts -will be given later. We idealized those seamen, especially -Simeon Potter. One sailor who was not a captain but a -ship’s surgeon had had a most remarkable experience. He -was an inveterate smoker and his inordinate use of the weed -once saved his life. He was shipwrecked upon a cannibal -island in the Pacific ocean. His fellow sufferers were all -eaten by their captors. Because he was so flavored with -tobacco, he was not deemed fit to be eaten at once by the -savage epicures, and so lived to be rescued. He was also -a most profane man. One day after a long attack of fever, -which had wasted him almost to a skeleton, he ventured<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span> -out for a walk. Unfortunately, he had not noted the wind. -He wore a long cloak and the wind was fair and heavy. -Having once started before it, he was not able to stop, but -went on, gathering speed and scattering profanity, until -friendly arms at last rescued him, entirely exhausted except -as to his supply of oaths. Depraved boys when caught -smoking sometimes brought forward his case in extenuation -of their own crime.</p> - -<p>Boyish sports before the introduction of baseball in the -“early ’60s” were largely nautical. As a matter of course -every boy learned to swim almost as soon as he learned to -walk. Before his anxious mother had really begun to worry -about him he was diving from a bowsprit or dropping from -a yard arm. One man whom I know still regards a forced -swim of about half a mile which he took from an overturned -skiff, at the age of nine, as the most delightful episode of -his career. (He forgot to tell his mother about it until -a considerable time, i.e., the swimming season, had elapsed.) -One of the amusements of that olden time was unique. -When we were about ten years old we were wont, as soon -as school was dismissed, to hasten down to the wharves, -“swarm” up the rigging of some of the vessels lying there, -and having reached the point where the shrouds stopped, to -“shin up” the smooth topmast and place our caps upon the -caps of the masts. The one who got his cap on a mast first -was of course the best boy. Singularly enough, I never -remember to have proclaimed to my parents the proud occasions -when I was “it.” My great chum in those days -was Benjamin F. Tilley, who died quite recently, an Admiral -in the United States Navy and one of the best loved -officers in the service. When he was in Providence a few -years ago, in command of the gunboat Newport, we indulged<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span> -largely in reminiscences of our boyhood, and among -other things “shinned” up those masts again. Very -strangely Tilley could not remember that he had ever proclaimed -to his parents that he was “it.” Modest always -were the Bristol boys in the days of my youth. Looking -back upon these episodes with the added knowledge fifty -years have brought, I feel sure that if I had told my father -of my prowess, he would have said in his quiet way, “Perhaps -you would better not say anything to your mother -about it,” and would have gone away chuckling. He had -been “it” himself. For we boys were simply exemplifying -the traditions of our race. We were only doing what our -forebears had done for generations.</p> - -<p>In the earliest years of the town the names of streets -in cities across the ocean were more familiar to its inhabitants -than were those of the towns of the other Colonies. -In 1690 fifteen of its vessels were engaged in foreign -commerce, and the number of such vessels steadily increased -until the Revolutionary War. When that struggle broke -out fifty hailed from the port. Add to this the number -of craft of every description engaged in the coasting trade -and one can easily imagine the crowded condition of the -harbor. Ship building was at one time a prominent industry. -Statistics are not readily accessible but we know -that from 1830 to 1856 sixty vessels were here built and -rigged. After 1856 none of any importance were constructed -until, in 1863, the Herreshoffs began to send from -their yard the yachts that were to “show their heels” to all -rivals. The decline of commerce dates from the revival -of the whale fishery. In the earliest colonial days whales -were captured along the coasts of New England by means -of boats sent out from the shore whenever one of the great<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span> -fishes came in sight. This was not infrequently. (It was -a whale cast up on the shore that saved Thorfinn Karlsefni -from starvation when the Norsemen made their second visit -to Vinland.) In the year 1825 the first whaler was fitted -out for a cruise. The venture was unusually successful -and other ships were quickly placed in commission. In 1837 -the arrival of sixteen vessels “from a whaling cruise” is -recorded on the books of the Custom House. The most -noted of those whalers was the General Jackson, prize of -the privateer Yankee. Of her more anon. In 1837 the -Bristol whaling fleet numbered nineteen ships.</p> - -<p>The bell which summoned the operatives of the first cotton -mill to their work really sounded the death knell of the -shipping industry. The man whose maritime ventures had -been most profitable was quick to recognize the fact. James -De Wolf was the first of Bristolians to transfer his capital -from ships to factories. With the building of mills agriculture -began to decline though for more than half a century -onions and other vegetables continued to be exported -to the West India Islands. The erection of the great buildings -of the National Rubber Company completed the transformation -of the town.</p> - -<p>Very different is the place from the old Puritan town of -the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; very different indeed -from the Bristol of sixty years ago. Sixty years ago -the Puritan traditions still dominated. This fact was -especially evident on Sunday. That day was observed with -the strictness of the old Puritan Sabbath. Worldly amusements -were frowned upon. Every one was expected to go -to church in the morning, and a very large proportion of -the population attended a second religious service in the -afternoon or evening. If golf had been known no one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span> -would have ventured to play it. Social ostracism would -have followed any attempt at a match game of ball. The -only foreign element was the Irish. Very nearly all the -Irish had been born on “the old sod.” Today the Irish -element is almost the dominant one and the descendants -of the first immigrants are as thoroughly American in their -ideals and sentiments as are those who trace their ancestry -to the Founders of 1680. Sixty years ago there were perhaps -a dozen names upon the tax lists that were not derived -from the British Isles. No foreign tongue except the Spanish -of the frequent Cuban visitors was heard upon the -streets. Today the Italian language is everywhere heard -and Italian names fill the pages of the directory. With the -Italians have come also Canadian French and Portuguese. -Walking over the “Common” one day not long ago -I passed three groups of men and boys and heard from them -not one word of English. One group was Italian, another -French, the third Portuguese.</p> - -<p>In the olden days the business was transacted along the -wharves on Thames Street. That street was crowded with -drays loaded with the products of every land, while sailors -of all nations lounged about the water front. Today a -sailor is a rare sight. The commerce has vanished and -not a vessel of any size hails from the port. Even the pronunciation -of the name of the street by the water has been -changed and most of the dwellers upon that thoroughfare -do not know that they are living upon the “Tems” street -of our fathers. By day even in summer the streets of the -town are almost empty, except for the visitors, and half -the people are at work in the factories. But there is immense -life in the place yet. The population is increasing -by leaps and bounds and the wealth per capita is increasing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span> -in the same way. When the great mill wheels cease to turn, -a hurrying throng of operatives crowds the highways. Although -they are now for the most part alien in speech and -thought, their children, born in the old colonial port, will -grow up imbued with the spirit of the place and will be -Americans, Americans without the hyphen. The old seafaring -spirit still exists, though mightily transformed. No -longer do Bristol sails whiten far distant seas, no longer -do the argosies bring into the harbor the products of India, -the silks of China and Japan. From the port today go forth -vessels of a very different type. They lack the capacious -holds of the olden days but they carry sails larger than any -the old captains ever dreamed of. Their business is not -to carry merchandise; they sail forth from Narragansett -Bay to lead the yachting fleets of the world.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="p6 nobreak" id="PART_I">PART I<br /> -<br /> -SIMEON POTTER AND THE PRINCE CHARLES OF LORRAINE</h2> -</div> - - -<hr class="p6 chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span><br /> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h3>1—SIMEON POTTER</h3> -</div> - -<p>Most famous among the names of the old sea captains -of Bristol is that of Simeon Potter. For almost half a -century Potter was the most conspicuous figure in the town -in which he was born. He was also one of the influential -men in the Colony and State of Rhode Island for a large -part of that time.</p> - -<p>Simeon Potter was born in Bristol in the year 1720. His -father was not a man of fortune and the boy’s education -was almost entirely neglected. His letters, even in advanced -age, are those of an illiterate man who, apparently, had -never attempted to remedy the deficiencies of his youth. -Perhaps this is not to be wondered at. He went forth from -Bristol an humble sailor lad whose only possessions were -a sound body and an imperious will. After a comparatively -few years spent upon the ocean he returned to his native -town with a purse overflowing with riches, a man to be -looked up to for the rest of his life.</p> - -<p>His wealth was acquired in “privateering,” and tales of -his captures upon the sea, and especially of his wild marauding -descents upon foreign coasts, were familiar as household -words to the ears of the Bristolians of three-quarters of a -century ago. Those tales lost nothing in the telling and -in them Potter came to be endowed with attributes he never -possessed. This was especially the case with his stature. -Like Charlemagne he continued to grow taller with each -fifty years after his death. He came in time to be pictured -as a giant in size and strength, a man whose success was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span> -largely due to the might of his arm, and not to any especial -mental ability. It was not until the narrative which follows -had been brought to light that we were able to see him as -he really was, a slight man. Possibly his great wealth rather -than an overpowering personality may have been the cause -of his large influence. His fortune was estimated at a -quarter of a million dollars, which was an enormous sum -for those days.</p> - -<p>He plunged gladly into the conflicts of the turbulent age, -and by a happy chance came forth from them all without -serious injury. When wars ceased his restless energy forced -him into constant litigations; he seemed never to be happy -unless he had some legal contest on his hands. His intense -pride had much to do with this. Like many self-made men -he could brook no opposition; he exacted from his townsmen -the deference invariably rendered by seamen to the -quarter-deck, and never forgot that his success was due to -his own unaided efforts. Very soon after the Prince Charles -had returned from the raid upon Oyapoc it was visited by -some officers from a British man-of-war then lying in the -harbor of Newport. They were greatly pleased with the -trim, man-o’-war appearance of the privateer and expressed -their approbation of its commander. Unfortunately they -did so with a patronizing condescension that was exceedingly -galling to the young captain. When at last one of -them ventured to ask “why he did not apply to his Majesty -for a commission as the king would undoubtedly give him -a larger and better ship” he could no longer contain himself. -“When I wish for a better ship I will not ask his -Majesty for one, I will build one myself,” he said, and, -turning on his heel, left the Englishman wondering what -he could have said that seemed so offensive.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span></p> - -<p>Potter left the sea and came back to Bristol to live just -after the town had been transferred from Massachusetts to -Rhode Island. He was first chosen to represent the town in -the General Assembly in 1752, and from that time until the -Revolution, when he had become an Assistant, an office -corresponding to that of a Senator today, his voice was -continually heard in the colonial councils. After the war -had really begun his zeal (though not his pugnacity) seems -to have waned and he ceased to take an active part in the -affairs of either town or State. Possibly the larger ability, -the increasing influence and the more striking personality -of his townsman, Governor William Bradford, may have -had something to do with Potter’s retirement from participation -in public life.</p> - -<p>However that may be, when the contest that was to result -in the independence of the United Colonies began he plunged -into it with immense delight. These lines in his own handwriting, -preserved to the present day by a descendant of -one of his sisters (he left no children), show clearly his -mental attitude at that time:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container fs80"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="verse indent0">I love with all my heart</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The independent part.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To obey the Parliament</div> - <div class="verse indent0">My conscience wont consent.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I never can abide</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To fight on England’s side.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I pray that God may bless</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The great and Grand Congress.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">This is my mind and heart</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Though none should take my part</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The man thats called a Tory</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To plague is all my glory.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">How righteous is the cause</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To keep the Congress laws!</div><span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">To fight against the King</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Bright Liberty will bring.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Lord North and England’s King</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I hope that they will swing.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Of this opinion I</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Resolve to live and die</div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>His participation in the destruction of the Gaspee has -been already described. When the office of Major-General -of the Rhode Island Colonial Forces was created his zeal -and energy had so impressed his fellow members of the -General Assembly that he was chosen to fill it. His tenure -of office must have been brief. In 1776 he had been chosen -Assistant (Assistants were elected by the vote of all the -freemen of the Colony), but he did not present himself at -many meetings of the Assembly. In fact so neglectful was -he of his duties that a vote was passed requesting his reasons -for absenting himself, and demanding his attendance at -the next session. Undoubtedly the increased taxes had -something to do with it. He was the wealthiest citizen of -Bristol and one of the richest men in the Colony, and the -possession of money was his chief delight. He could not -bear to see it taken away from him even though the independence -of the Colonies might thereby be assured. (One -day a young nephew was talking with him and lamenting -his apparent lack of success. “How, Captain Potter,” said -he, “shall I go to work to make money?” “Make money,” -said Potter, “make money! I would plow the ocean into -pea porridge to make money.”)</p> - -<p>In 1777 his name appears for the last time in the Colonial -Records. At the Town Meeting held in Bristol in May of -that year “Colonel Potter was chosen Moderator, but after -the usual officers were elected he withdrew and refused to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span> -serve any longer.” A tax collector’s account was then presented -showing that he had neglected to pay all his taxes. -Three years later, May 10, 1780, it was voted in Town Meeting -“That the Assessors make enquiry and make report to -the town at the adjournment of the meeting, what part of -Colonel Potter’s taxes remain unpaid, and that Mr. Smith, -the collector, be desired to apply to the Assessors of the -town of Swansey to know at what time said Potter began -to pay taxes in said town, and what part of his personal -estate has been rated from time to time in said town.” Although -he still retained his household in Bristol he had -taken up his residence in Swansey, where the rate of taxation -was considerably less than that of Bristol. In that -Massachusetts town he continued, nominally, to reside for -the rest of his life. Notwithstanding his residence in another -State he still continued a member of Saint Michael’s -Church. In 1792 a vote of the Vestry was passed, thanking -him for painting the church edifice, and for other benefactions, -and in 1799 he presented a bell (with a French inscription) -to the parish. His name headed the list of -vestrymen from 1793 until his death. He died, at the age -of eighty-six, February 20, 1806, leaving no children. His -estate was by will divided among his nine sisters and their -descendants. All the beneficiaries did not fare alike. He -had his favorites and his strong prejudices. As is almost -always the case popular estimate had exaggerated the value -of his property. Instead of a quarter of a million, less than -half that amount was divided among his heirs. The inventory -showed that he had made a great many “wildcat” -investments.</p> - -<p>From his house on Thames Street the old captain was -borne to his last resting place in the burying-ground upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span> -the Common. It was the most impressive funeral the town -had witnessed. All the people turned out to see the long -procession, and to take part in it. The privateering exploits -of his early life were again retold, the innumerable -legal battles of his later days were again recounted. Full -of strife and tumult were the centuries in which his life -had been passed, stormy and passionate his own career had -been. He was perhaps the last, he was certainly the most -successful, of the old sea captains who, as English subjects, -had sailed forth from Narragansett Bay to make war as -privateersmen upon the foes of Great Britain. But among -those who followed his corpse to its final resting place were -men who in less than a decade were to sail out from Bristol -harbor in a little private armed vessel whose success as -a privateer was to surpass his wildest imaginings, a vessel -that was to collect from English merchants a tribute many -times exceeding that which he had exacted from the enemies -of England. The story of that vessel will be told in the -last chapter of this book.</p> - -<p>Potter was most noted for his raid upon the coast of -French Guiana of which an account follows. He was captain -of a typical American privateer when Narragansett -Bay was noted throughout the Colonies as a nursery of -privateersmen. Rhode Island furnished more privately -armed vessels for the service of the mother country during -the eighteenth century than did any other American Colony. -From the year 1700 to the Revolution at least one hundred -and eighty such ships sailed out from its ports. They were -long and narrow, crowded with seamen for their more -speedy handling, and manœuvered with a skill that placed -the slower ships of the French and Spaniards entirely at -their mercy. They carried long guns which enabled them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span> -to disable their adversaries at a distance, thus preventing -their enemies from inflicting any damage in return. Because -built for speed they were of light construction. A -broadside from a man-of-war would have gone crashing -through their hulls and sent them at once to the bottom of -the sea, but the seamanship of their captains always kept -them out of reach of such a broadside. Their greatest -danger was from the gales that drove them upon a rocky -coast. Then no skill of their captains could save them. -Their slight frames were quickly broken to pieces, sometimes -with the loss of every man on board. The Prince -Charles of Lorraine was wrecked upon the rocks of Seaconnet -Point not long after the voyage herein described.</p> - -<p>The kind of warfare in which they engaged would not -now be regarded as honorable, yet it was then approved -by all nations. Not only did they seek prizes upon the -ocean; a descent upon the coast of the enemy, a plundering -of a rich town especially if it was undefended, was an exploit -from which they derived the liveliest satisfaction. -They preferred that kind of an expedition, for, as was -always the case with private armed ships, their aim was -simply to acquire wealth for themselves, not to inflict unprofitable -damage upon their adversaries. Privateering was -only a species of legalized piracy as far as these raids were -concerned. Happily the ruthless bloodshed and the outrages -which characterized the raids of the buccaneers and -other pirates were never charged against sailors on the -legally commissioned private armed ships. Their trade -was brutal but they carried it on with the approbation of -their fellow men because it was a custom that had prevailed -from time immemorial.</p> - -<p>Very rarely have records of their raids been preserved,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span> -more rarely still accounts written by their victims. The -one which follows was discovered and made public some -three-quarters of a century ago by Bishop Kip of California. -At the sale of a famous library in England he purchased a -set of the “Letters of Jesuit Missionaries from 1650-1750,” -bound in fifty or more volumes. In 1875 he published a -volume containing translations of the letters relating especially -to American history. From this volume, which has -long been out of print, the following account is taken.</p> - -<p>The owners of the Prince Charles of Lorraine were -Sueton Grant, Peleg Brown and Nathaniel Coddington, Jr., -of Newport. Simeon Potter of Bristol was her captain, -and Daniel Brown of Newport was her lieutenant. Among -the Bristol men on the privateer were Mark Anthony De -Wolf (founder of the family destined to become most -famous in the history of the town), clerk; Benjamin Munro, -master; Michael Phillips, pilot; William Kipp and Jeffrey -Potter, the last being probably an Indian slave of Potter. -Upon her return from her cruise Captain Potter was summoned -before an admiralty court, having been accused of -certain high handed, not to say illegal proceedings. Among -other things he was charged with having fired upon a Dutch -vessel while his ship was lying at anchor in Surinam, Dutch -Guiana. He proved to the satisfaction of the court that he -had fired upon the Dutch ship at the request of the Captain -of the Port, in order to “bring her to,” his own ship being -between the vessel and the fort at the time and so preventing -the fire of the fort. The admiralty judge decided that Potter -had not been guilty of the offences charged, and that -he had shown zeal and enterprise worthy of commendation -and imitation. The trial proceedings combined with Father -Fauque’s narrative give a complete history of the cruise.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span></p> - -<p>The privateer sailed from Newport September 8, 1744, -and arrived at “Wiopock, twelve leagues to the windward -of Cyan,” October 28. Up to that time she had taken no -prizes. Upon his arrival Potter took thirty-two men and -made a descent upon the town. They reached it at midnight -and were at once fired upon by its garrison, Captain -Potter receiving a bullet in his left arm. Of course they -took the fort; garrisons in the tropics were never equal -to privateersmen as fighters. They took some twenty prisoners -(the other defenders having promptly fled), six cannon -and from sixty to seventy small arms. They remained -at Wiapock twelve days while they sacked the town, taking -from it everything of value. Some of the company were sent -up the river to plunder plantations. All things taken were -carried to Barbadoes and there condemned as French property, -with the exception of some slaves detained at Surinam -and some personal property which Potter sold at a “vandue” -on his ship. Having stripped Wiapock (the name of the -place was Oyapoc but American and English captains were -never strong on spelling) to their hearts’ content, they -sailed to “Cyann” (Cayenne) and dropped anchor at that -place November 11. There they tarried four or five days, -during which they sent plundering expeditions up the river. -One of these came to grief on a shoal. The twelve men -who manned the boat were attacked by one hundred and -thirty soldiers, three of them were killed, four were wounded -and the others carried to Cyann fort as prisoners. Thereupon -Potter sent a flag of truce to propose an exchange of -prisoners. The exchange was arranged and among those -returned by the Americans was “a priest,” Father Fauque. -Then the Prince Charles sailed to Surinam well satisfied -with what had been accomplished. At Surinam Captain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span> -Potter gave an entertainment to two English merchants and -some masters of ships that were at anchor in the port. -Seamen of that day were not always total abstainers and -after the banquet the “vandue” was had of which mention -has already been made. The prices obtained for the plunder -were doubtless satisfactory for the most part to the sellers, -but not in all cases. The goods sold “to the value of thirty -or forty pieces of eight.” They belonged to the “company” -and the captain purchased many of them on his own account -thereby furnishing cause for the suit brought against -him on his return to Rhode Island, from which suit he came -out triumphant. Immediately after the sale the seamen -demanded their share of the proceeds. Captain Potter told -them they were still in debt to the owners for advances -made and as his arguments were enforced by a drawn sword -they were admitted to be valid.</p> - -<p>In his testimony before the admiralty court the Indian, -Jeffrey Potter, was more specific as to the plunder secured -at Wiapock than any other witness. He testified that they -took seven Indians and three negroes, twenty large spoons -or ladles, nine large ladles, one gold and one silver hilted -sword, one gold and one silver watch, two bags of money, -quantity uncertain; chests and trunks of goods, etc., gold -rings, buckles and buttons, silver candlesticks, church plate -both gold and silver, swords, four cannon, sixty small arms, -ammunition, provisions, etc. But the wealth secured on -this raid could not have been very great. French Guiana -at the present time has a population of only 30,000, of whom -12,500 live at Cayenne. The number of people then living -at Oyapoc was much smaller than the population of today. -The town burned by the marauding expedition sent up the -river contained not more than seventy houses, and anyone<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span> -who has visited the countries lying along the north coast -of South America knows that “the wealth of the tropics” -is a wild figure of speech as far as the house furnishings -are concerned.</p> - -<p>Equally wild are some of the accounts of the raid. One -writer states that “there can be no doubt that in this cruise -Captain Potter and his command invaded and desolated -1500 miles of the enemy’s territory; that on the Spanish -Main in his march he visited churches and dwellings, and -brought from the field of his exploits large amounts of -booty.” This writer was but repeating the tale as it had -been told him in his childhood. He had never deemed it -necessary to verify it. If he had considered the matter he -would have realized that French Guiana is not a part of -the Spanish Main at all, and a glance at the map would -have shown him that between Cayenne and the mouth of -the Orinoco River, where technically the “Spanish Main” -begins, lie the hundreds of miles of coastline of Dutch and -British Guiana. No privateer of the size of the Prince -Charles could possibly have carried provisions and water -sufficient for such a cruise if the expedition had been made -in the vessel itself, and no ship’s crew of the size of that -which Potter commanded could, by any stretch of the imagination, -have made such a journey overland. Moreover no -mention whatever of the Spanish Main, or of booty except -that obtained at Cyann and Wiapock, is to be found in the -records of the admiralty court. The statement affords an -excellent illustration of the astounding growth of popular -traditions.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h3>2—LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE</h3> -</div> - -<div class="blockquoty"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Letter</span> <em>of Father Fauque, Missionary of the Society of -Jesus, to Father ——, of the same Society, containing -an Account of the Capture of Fort d’Oyapoc by an -English pirate</em>.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> -</div> - - -<p class="right fs80"> -<em>At</em> <span class="smcap">Cayenne</span>, <em>the 22d of December, 1744</em>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">My Reverend Father</span>,—The peace of our Lord be with -you! I will make you a partaker of the greatest happiness -I have experienced in my life, by informing you of the opportunity -I had of suffering something for the glory of -God.</p> - -<p>I returned to Oyapoc on the 25th of October last. Some -days afterwards, I received at my house Father d’Autilhac, -who had returned from his mission to Ouanari, and Father -d’Huberlant, who is settled at the confluence of the rivers -Oyapoc and Camoppi, where he had formed a new mission. -Thus we found ourselves, three missionaries, together; and -we were enjoying the pleasure of a reunion, so rare in these -countries, when divine Providence, to try us, permitted -the occurrence of one of those wholly unexpected events -which in one day destroyed the fruit of many years’ labor. -I will relate it, with all the attending circumstances.</p> - -<p>Scarcely had war been declared between France and -England, when the English were sent from North America -to cruise among the islands to the leeward of Cayenne. -They determined to touch there, in the hope of capturing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span> -some vessel, pillaging some dwellings, and above all, of obtaining -some news of the “Senau,” which was lost not long -since near the river Maroni. Having gone too far south, -and the water giving out, they approached Oyapoc to obtain -some. We should have been naturally informed of it, either -by the Indians, who go out frequently to hunt or fish, or -by the guard, which our commander had prudently posted -upon a mountain at the mouth of the river, whence they -could see to the distance of three or four leagues. But, on -the one hand, the Aroüas Indians, who came from Mayacorè -to Ouanari, having been seized by the English, gave -them information of the little colony of Oyapoc, of which -they were ignorant, and on which they had no designs when -leaving their own country. On the other hand, the sentinels -who were on guard, and who should have been our security, -themselves acted as guides to those who surprised us. Thus -every thing united to cause us to fall into the hands of -these pirates.<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p> - -<p>Their chief was Captain Simeon Potter, a native of New -England, fitted out to cruise with a commission from -Williems Guéene, Governor of Rodelan,<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> and commanding -the vessel “Prince Charles of Lorraine,” of ten cannon, -twelve swivel-guns, and a crew of sixty-two men. They -cast anchor on the 6th of November, and began taking in -water at the mountain d’Argent. (This is the name of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span> -country on the inner side of the bay formed by the river -d’Oyapoc.) On the 7th, their long-boat, returning to the -ship, saw a canoe of Indians, which was coming from Cape -Orange. (This is the cape which forms the other point -of the bay.) The English pursued them, frightened them -by a discharge of their gun, seized them, and carried them -on shipboard. The next day, having seen a fire during the -night on another mountain, which is called Mount Lucas, -they sent and seized two young men who were placed there -as sentinels. They might have had time to come and inform -us; but one of them, a traitor to his country, did not -wish to do so.</p> - -<p>After having in this way learned the situation, the force, -and generally everything which related to the post of -Oyapoc, they determined to surprise it. They attempted -the enterprise in the night, between the 9th and 10th. But, -fearing lest daylight might overtake them before their arrival, -they turned back, and kept themselves concealed during -all the day of the 10th. The following night they took -their measures better. They arrived a little after the setting -of the moon, and, guided by the two young Frenchmen, -they landed about a hundred yards from the fort of Oyapoc.</p> - -<p>The sentinel at first took them for Indians or negroes, -who came and went at all hours during the night. He challenged -them, but they made no reply, and he then at once -concluded they were enemies. Every one woke up in surprise; -but the English were within the place before any one -had time to collect his thoughts. For myself, who was living -outside the fort, and was roused by the first cry of the -sentinel, having opened my door, I saw them file by in great -haste; and, not being myself perceived, I immediately ran -to awaken our Fathers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span></p> - -<p>So unexpected a surprise in the middle of a dark night, -the weakness of the post, the few soldiers there to defend -it (for there were not at that time more than ten or twelve -men), the frightful shouts of a multitude which we supposed, -as was natural, more numerous than it really was, -the vivid and terrible fire which they kept up with their -guns and pistols on entering the place,—all these things -induced each one, by a first impulse of which he was not -himself master, to take to flight, and conceal himself in the -woods which surrounded us. Our commander, however, -fired and wounded in the left arm the English captain, a -young man about thirty years of age. What is singular, -the captain was the only one wounded on either side.</p> - -<p>Our two missionaries, however, who had no spiritual -charge at this post, and one of whom, through his zeal -and friendship, wished to remain at my place, pressed by -my solicitations, took refuge in the depths of the forest, -with some Indians of their attendants and all our servants. -For myself, I remained in my house, which was distant from -the fort about a hundred yards, having resolved to go first -to the church to consume the consecrated wafer, and afterwards -to carry spiritual aid to the French, supposing that -some of them had been wounded there; as I thought, certainly -not without reason, after having heard so much firing -of guns, that our people had made some resistance.</p> - -<p>I went out, therefore, to execute the first of these projects; -when a negro servant, who, through goodness of -heart and fidelity (rare qualities among the slaves), had -remained with me, represented to me that I would certainly -be discovered, and they would not fail to fire at me in the -first heat of the contest. I yielded to these reasons, and, -as I only remained to render to my flock all the services<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span> -demanded by my ministry, I felt scruples at uselessly exposing -myself, and determined to wait until break of day -to show myself.</p> - -<p>You can easily imagine, my Reverend Father, what a -variety of emotions agitated me during the remainder of -that night. The air ceaselessly resounded with cries and -shouts and yells, and with the discharge of guns and pistols. -Presently I heard the doors and windows of the houses -opened, and the furniture overthrown with a great crash; -and, as I was sufficiently near to distinguish perfectly the -noise they made in the church, I was suddenly seized with -an inward horror in the fear lest the Holy Sacrament might -be profaned. I would have given a thousand lives to prevent -this sacrilege; but there was not time. Nevertheless, -to hinder it by the only way which remained to me, I inwardly -addressed myself to Jesus Christ, and earnestly -prayed Him to guard His adorable Sacrament from the -profanation which I feared. What took place was in a -way so surprising that it may reasonably be regarded as -a miracle.</p> - -<p>During all this tumult, my negro, who was perfectly -aware of the danger we were running, and who had not -the same reason with myself for this voluntary exposure, -frequently proposed to me to take to flight. But I was -unable to do so. I knew too well the obligations of my -office; and I could only wait for the moment when it would -be in my power to go to the fort, and see in what state -were the French soldiers, the greater part of whom I supposed -to be either dead or wounded. I said, therefore, to -the slave that on this occasion he was his own master; that -I could not force him to remain with me; but that, nevertheless, -I should be pleased if he did not abandon me. I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span> -added that, if he had any grievous sin on his conscience, -it would be best for him to confess it, to be prepared for -any contingency, since he was not certain but what they -might take away his life. This conversation made an impression -on him, so that he recovered courage and remained -firm.</p> - -<p>As soon as day dawned, I ran to the church, creeping -through the underwood; and, although they had sentinels -and marauders on every side, I had the good fortune not -to be seen. As I entered the sacristy, which I found open, -tears filled my eyes when I saw the cupboard for the vestments -and linen, where also I kept the chalice and the sacred -vessels, broken open and shattered, and many of the vestments -scattered here and there. I went into the choir of -the church, where I saw the altar half uncovered, and the -cloths thrown together in a heap. I examined the tabernacle, -and found they had not noticed a little piece of cotton, -which I was accustomed to place at the opening of the lock -to prevent the <em>ravers</em> from getting into it. (This is an -insect very common in the islands, which only comes out -at night, and is very similar to the gadfly.) I supposed -that the door was also broken open; but, placing my hand -upon it, I found that it had not been touched. Overcome -with wonder and joy and thankfulness, I took the key -which these heretics had had under their hands. I opened -it with reverence, and partook of the Sacrament, very uncertain -whether I should ever again have that blessing; for -what has not a man of my profession to fear from pirates, -and these pirates, too, being English?</p> - -<p>After I had thus received the Sacrament, I fell on my -knees to return thanks; and I told my negro to go in the -mean while into my chamber, which was near at hand.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span> -He went there; but, in returning, was seen and arrested -by a sailor. The slave begged for mercy, and the Englishman -did not do him any harm. I showed myself then at -the door of the sacristy, and immediately saw that I was -aimed at. It was necessary, therefore, to surrender; so -I came forward, and we took together the way to the fort. -When we entered the place, I saw every face expressing -the greatest joy, each one congratulating himself that they -had captured a priest.</p> - -<p>The first one who approached me was the captain himself. -He was a man small in stature, and not in any respect -differing from the others in dress. He had his left -arm in a sling, a sabre in his right hand, and two pistols -in his belt. As he was acquainted with some words of -French, he told me “that I was very welcome; that I had -nothing to fear, as no one would attempt my life.”</p> - -<p>In the mean while, M. de Lage de la Landerie, Writer -of the king, and our storekeeper, having appeared, I asked -him in what condition were our people, and if many of -them were killed or wounded. He answered me that they -were not; that of our soldiers he had seen only the sergeant -and one sentinel, and that on neither side was any one -wounded but the English captain alone, in whose power -we now were. I was delighted to learn that our commander, -the officers, and their soldiers, had sufficient time to escape; -and as by this fact the reasons which had induced me to -remain no longer existed, and as my personal ministry was -not necessary, I should have much preferred being at liberty, -and, could I have done so, would have retreated. But -I could not longer dream of that; and at that very moment -two of our soldiers, who were found concealed, were seized, -and increased the number of our prisoners.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span></p> - -<p>At length dinner-time came. I was invited, but I certainly -had no inclination to eat. I knew that our soldiers -and the two missionary Fathers were in the depth of the -forest, without clothes, food, or aid. I had no news of -them, nor was I able to procure any. This reflection overwhelmed -me; it was necessary, however, to accept their repeated -invitations, which seemed to me to be sincere.</p> - -<p>Scarcely had the meal commenced, when I saw arriving -the first plunder they had made at my house. It was natural -that I should be moved. Indeed, I showed it; so that the -captain said to me, as an excuse for himself, that the King -of France had first declared war against the King of England, -and that in consequence of it the French had already -taken, pillaged, and burned an English post named Campo, -near Cape Breton, and that several persons, including children, -had been smothered in the flames.</p> - -<p>I answered him that, without wishing to enter into the -detail of the affairs of Europe, our respective kings being -to-day at war, I did not take it amiss; but was only surprised -that he should have come to attack Oyapoc, which -was not worth the trouble.<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> He replied that he himself -exceedingly regretted having come here, as this delay might -cause him to miss two merchant vessels, richly loaded, which -were on the point of sailing from the harbor of Cayenne. -I then said to him that, since he saw for himself how inconsiderable -was this post, and that he had scarcely any -thing to gain from it, I prayed him to accept a reasonable -ransom, for my church, myself, my negro, and every thing -belonging to me. This proposition was reasonable, but was, -nevertheless, rejected. He wished that I should treat with -him for the fort and all its dependencies. But I bade him<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span> -observe that this was not a fit proposition to make to a -simple priest; that, besides, the Court of France had so -little regard for the post that recent news from Paris had -apprised us that it would be abandoned as soon as practicable. -“Well,” said he, in a spiteful way, “since you do -not wish to entertain my proposition, we must continue our -depredations, and make reprisals for all that the French -have done against us.”</p> - -<p>They continued, therefore, to transport from our houses -furniture, clothes, provisions, all with a disorder and confusion -that was remarkable. What gave me the deepest -pain was to see the sacred vessels<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> in these profane and -sacrilegious hands. I collected myself for a moment, and, -awakening all my zeal, I told them what reason and faith -and religion inspired me to say in the most forcible manner. -With words of persuasion I mingled motives of fear for -so criminal a profanation. The example of Belshazzar was -not forgotten; and I am able to say to you with truth, my -Reverend Father, that I saw many moved, and disposed -to return these articles to me; but cupidity and avarice -prevailed, and on the same day all the silver was packed -up and carried aboard the vessel.<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p> - -<p>The captain, more susceptible of feeling than all the -others, as he had always seemed to me, told me that he -would willingly yield to me what he was able to return, -but that he had no control over the will of the others; that -all the crew having part in the booty, he was not able, as -captain, to dispose of any but his own share; but that he -would do all that was in his power to induce the others -to agree to what I proposed. This was to pay them at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span> -Cayenne, or at Surinam (a Dutch colony, which was not -far distant, and where, they told me, they wished to go), -or even in Europe by bills of exchange, for the value of -the silver in the sacred vessels. But he was not able to -obtain any thing.</p> - -<p>Some time afterwards, the first lieutenant asked me, -through an interpreter, “what induced me to surrender myself -to them?” I replied to him, “that the persuasion I was -under that some of our soldiers had been wounded had -determined me to remain for their relief.” “And did you -not fear being killed?” he added. “Yes, without doubt,” -I said; “but the fear of death is not capable of stopping a -minister of Jesus Christ, when he should discharge his -duty. Every true Christian is obliged to sacrifice his life -rather than commit a sin; and I should have thought that -I was guilty of a very great one, if, having charge of souls -in my parish, I had entirely abandoned them in their peril. -You know, indeed,” I continued, “you Protestant people, -who pride yourselves so much on reading the Scriptures, -that it is only the hireling shepherd who flees before the -wolf when he attacks the sheep.” At this discourse they -looked at one another, and seemed to me to be entirely -astonished. This lesson is, without doubt, something a -little different from that of their pretended Reformation.</p> - -<p>For myself, I was all the while uncertain with regard -to my own fate, and I saw that I had every thing to fear -from such people. I addressed myself, therefore, to the -holy guardian angels, and I began a <em>Novena</em><a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> in their honor, -not doubting but they would cause something to turn to -my advantage. I prayed them to assist me in this difficult -emergency in which I found myself; and I should say here,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span> -to give a higher sanction to this devotion, so well known -and so established in the usage of the Church, what I have -recognized in my own particular case, that I have received -each day the signal blessings of God, through the intercession -of these heavenly spirits.</p> - -<p>However, as soon as night approached,—that is to say, -towards six o’clock, for that is the time at which the sun -sets here during the whole year,—the English drum commenced -beating. They assembled on the Place, and posted -<ins class="corr" id="tn-58" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'their sentinenls on'"> -their sentinels on</ins> all sides. That being done, the rest -of the crew, as long as the night lasted, did not cease eating -and drinking. For myself, I was constantly visited in my -hammock, since they feared, without doubt, that I would -try to escape. In this way they were mistaken; for two -reasons detained me. The first was, that I had given them -my parole, by which I had again constituted myself their -prisoner, and I could not go out of their hands except by -means of exchange or ransom. The second was, that, as -long as I remained with them, I had some slight hope that -I might recover the sacred vessels, or at least the vestments -and other furniture of my church. As soon as it was day, -the pillage recommenced, with the same confusion and the -same disorder as the day before. Each carried to the fort -whatever happened to fall into his hands, and threw it down -in a pile. One arrived wearing an old cassock; another in -a woman’s petticoat; a third with the crown of a bonnet -on his head. It was the same with those who guarded the -booty. They searched in the heap of clothes, and when -they found any thing which suited their fancy,—as a peruke, -a laced <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">chapeau</i>, or a dress,—they immediately put it on, -and made three or four turns through the room, with great -satisfaction, after which they resumed their fantastical rags.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span> -They were like a band of monkeys or of savages, who had -never been away from the depths of the forest. A parasol -or a mirror, the smallest article of furniture a little showy, -excited their admiration. This did not surprise me, when -I learned that they had scarcely any communication with -Europe, and that Rodelan was a kind of little republic, -which did not pay any tribute to the King of England, -which elected its own governor every year, and which had -not even any silver money, but only notes for daily commerce; -for this is the impression I gained from all they -told me.<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p> - -<p>In the evening, the lieutenant informed himself of every -thing which related to the dwellings of the French along -the river,—how many there were of them, at what distances -they were, how many inhabitants each had, &c. Afterwards, -he took with him ten men, and one of the young -Frenchmen who had already served as guide to surprise -us; and, after having made all the necessary preparations, -they set out, and went up the river. But they found nothing, -or very few articles, because the colonists, having been -warned by our fugitives, had placed all their effects in -concealment, and particularly their negroes, who, more than -any thing else, excited the cupidity of the English. Finding -themselves thus disappointed in their hopes, they spent their -anger on the buildings, which they burned, without, however, -injuring the plantations. This, however, caused us -to suspect that they had some intentions of returning.</p> - -<p>As to those of us who were in the fort, we spent this -night very much like the preceding,—the same agitations, -the same excesses on the part of our enemies, and the same<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> -disquietude on our part. The second lieutenant, who was -left in command, did not lose sight of me, fearing, without -doubt, that I wished to profit by the absence of the captain -and the first lieutenant to make my escape. I had a great -deal of difficulty in reassuring them on this point, and could -not convince them. People of this kind, accustomed to -judge others by themselves, are not able to imagine that -an honorable man, that a priest, was able and obliged to -keep his parole in such a case.</p> - -<p>When the day dawned, he seemed a little less uneasy on -my account. Towards eight o’clock, they all placed themselves -at table; and, after a miserable repast, one of them -attempted to enter into a controversy with me. He put -many questions to me about Confession, about the worship -which we gave to the Cross, to images, &c. “Do you confess -your parishioners?” he presently asked me.</p> - -<p>“Yes,” I replied, “whenever they come to me; but they -do not do so as often as they should, or as I could wish -them, for the zeal I have for the salvation of their souls.”</p> - -<p>“And do you really think,” he added, “that their sins are -remitted as soon as they have declared them to you?”</p> - -<p>“No, assuredly,” I said to him; “a mere confession is -not sufficient to produce this. It is necessary that it should -be accompanied by a true sorrow for the past and a sincere -resolution for the future, without which auricular Confession -will have no efficacy to blot out sins.”</p> - -<p>“And as to the images and the Cross,” he replied, “do -you think that the prayer would be equally efficacious without -this, which is the external of religion?”</p> - -<p>“The prayer is good, without doubt,” I answered him; -“but permit me to ask you, with regard to yourself, why -in families do they preserve the portraits of a father, a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span> -mother, or their ancestors? Is it not principally to awaken -their own remembrances in thinking of the benefits they -have received from them, and to animate them to follow -their good examples? For it is not exactly the picture -which they honor, but it brings back to them all which it -represents. In the same manner, you need not imagine that -we Roman Catholics adore the wood or the brass; but we -use it to nourish, so to say, our devotion. For how could -a reasonable being remain unaffected while beholding the -figure of a God dying on the Cross for His love to us? -What effect may not be produced on the soul and the heart -by the image of a martyr who is giving his life for Jesus -Christ?”</p> - -<p>“Oh, I do not understand it so,” said the Englishman to -me; and I well knew from his manner that their ministers -deceive them in telling them that the Papists, as they call -us, superstitiously reverence and adore the Cross and the -images, valuing them for themselves.<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p> - -<p>I was anxiously waiting for the return of those who had -been to visit the dwellings, when they came to me to say -that it was necessary I should go on board the ship, as Captain -Potter wished to see me and speak with me. I had -done every thing in my power by urging, soliciting, and -representing, as earnestly as I was able, all the reasons I -had for not embarking so soon. But I could gain nothing, -and I was obliged to obey in spite of myself. The commander -of the party on shore, who, in the absence of the -others, was the second lieutenant, when I came to speak -to him on this point, taking hold of his tongue with one -hand, and with the other making a semblance of piercing -or cutting it, gave me to understand that, if I said any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span> -more, I might expect bad treatment. I had reason to think -that he was annoyed at the strong and pathetic address I -had made with regard to the profanation of the ornaments -of the church and the sacred vessels.</p> - -<p>We embarked, therefore, towards three o’clock in the -afternoon, in a canoe; and, although the ship was not much -more than three leagues distant (the captain having now -caused it to enter the river), we nevertheless only reached -it in about eight hours, in consequence of the remissness -of the rowers, who were constantly drinking. When at -a great distance I saw the hull of the vessel by the light -of the moon, it seemed to me to be entirely out of the water. -It had, indeed, run aground on the shore, and had only a -depth of three feet of water. This was the occasion of -great alarm to me; for I imagined that this might be the -fault of my negro, whom they had selected as one of the -pilots, and I thought that the captain had sent to seek me -to make me bear the penalty which my slave merited, or -at least that I should perish with the others in case the -ship should be wrecked. What confirmed me for some -time in this sad supposition was the little degree of welcome -I received; but I have since been informed that there was -no design in this, and that the cold reception which alarmed -me was caused by the fact that they were all busy in working -the vessel, to relieve themselves as soon as possible from -the uncomfortable position in which they were.</p> - -<p>As soon as our canoe had reached the ship, I saw descending -and coming to me a young man, who murdered the -French language in some little attempt to speak it, and who -took my hand, kissed it, and informed me that he was an -Irishman and a Roman Catholic. He even made the sign -of the Cross, which he did indifferently well; and he added<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> -that, in right of his office as second gunner, he had a berth -which he wished to give me, and that, if any one should -take it into his head to show me the least disrespect, he well -knew how to avenge it. This introduction, though shared -in by a man who seemed to be very drunk, did not fail to -tranquillize me somewhat. He gave me his hand, to aid -me in climbing up to the deck by means of the ropes. -Scarcely had I mounted thither when I encountered my -negro. I asked him at once why he caused the ship to run -aground, and was reassured when he told me that it was -the fault of the captain, who was obstinate in holding his -course in the middle of the river, although he had repeatedly -told him that the channel ran near the shore. At the -same time the captain appeared on the quarter-deck, and -told me, with great coldness, to go down into the cabin, -after which he continued to devote himself to working the -vessel.</p> - -<p>My Irishman, however, did not leave me, but, sitting at -the door, renewed his protestations of good-will, assuring -me always that he was a Roman Catholic; that he wished -to confess before I left the ship; that he had formerly received -the Sacrament, &c. And, as in all his conversation, -he constantly mingled invectives against the English nation, -they made him leave me, forbidding him to speak with me -for the future, under penalty of chastisement. He received -this with a very bad grace; swearing, blustering, and protesting -that he would speak with me in spite of them.</p> - -<p>However, he went away; and scarcely had he gone when -another came, as drunk as the first, and, like him, too, an -Irishman. He was the surgeon, who at first addressed me -with some Latin words,—<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Pater, misereor</i>. I attempted to -reply to him in Latin; but I soon found that these words<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span> -constituted the whole of his knowledge of the language; -and, as he was no better acquainted with French, we could -hold no conversation together.</p> - -<p>In the mean while it grew late, and I felt sleepiness pressing -on me, having scarcely closed my eyes during the preceding -nights. I did not know where to go to obtain a little -repose. The ship was so careened over that it was necessary -to be continually fastened to prevent one’s self rolling. I -wanted to lie down in one of the three berths; but I did -not dare, for fear some one would immediately force me -to leave it. The captain saw my embarrassment, and, -touched with the miserable figure we made, sitting on the -chests,—the storekeeper and myself,—he told us we could -lodge in the berth at the bottom of the cabin. He even -added, politely, that he regretted not being able to give -one to each, but his ship was too small to do so. I very -willingly accepted his offer, and we arranged for ourselves -as well as we could on a pile of rags.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding all the disquietudes of my situation, I -was drowsy from weariness, and during the night slept half -the time. Being half the time awake, I perceived that the -vessel had begun moving. It insensibly floated; and, to -prevent it from afterwards settling down again, they drove -two yard-arms into the mud, one on each side, which should -hold the hull of the vessel in equilibrium.</p> - -<p>As soon as day came, and it was necessary to take some -nourishment, I had a new source of torment, for the water -was so offensive that I was not able even to taste it. The -Indians and negroes, who certainly are not at all fastidious, -preferred to drink the water of the river, however muddy -and brackish it may be. I inquired, therefore, of the captain -why he did not procure other water, since very near<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span> -this was a spring, to which I was accustomed to send to -procure the water I used at the fort. He made no reply, -thinking, perhaps, that I wished to lead him into some ambush. -But, after having thoroughly questioned the French, -the negroes, and the Indians, whom he had taken prisoners, -he determined to send the long-boat to land, with my slave. -It made many trips during that and the following days; -so that we all had the pleasure of having good water, although -many scarcely used it, preferring the wine and rum -which they had on the deck at will.</p> - -<p>I ought, however, to say in commendation of the captain -that he was entirely sober. He even frequently expressed -to me the pain he felt at the excesses of his crew, to whom, -according to the custom of these pirates, he was obliged to -allow an abundance of liberty. He made me afterwards -a disclosure, which was sufficiently pleasant.</p> - -<p>“Monsieur,” he said to me, “do you know that tomorrow, -being the fifth of November, according to our method of -computation” [for we French people count it to be the fifteenth], -“the English have a great festival?”</p> - -<p>“And what is the festival?” I asked him.</p> - -<p>“We burn the Pope,” he answered, laughing.</p> - -<p>“Explain to me,” I said; “what is this ceremony?”</p> - -<p>“They dress up in a burlesque style,” he said, “a kind of -ridiculous figure, which they call the Pope, and which they -afterwards burn, while singing some ballads; and all this -is in commemoration of the day when the Court of Rome -separated England from its communion.<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> To-morrow,” he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span> -continued, “our people who are on shore will perform this -ceremony at the fort.”</p> - -<p>After a while, he caused his pennon and flag to be hoisted. -The sailors manned the yard-arms, the drum was beaten, -they fired the cannon, and all shouted, five times, “Long -live the King!” This having been done, he called one of -the sailors, who, to the great delight of those who understood -his language, chanted a very long ballad, which I -judged to be the recital of all this unworthy story. You -see in this, my Reverend Father, an instance which fully -confirms what all the world knew before, that heresy always -pushes to an extreme its animosity against the visible Head -of the Church.</p> - -<p>During the night a large boat came to us, manned by -rowers. The captain, who was always on his guard, and -who was not able to lay aside the idea that our people were -seeking to surprise him, caused them immediately to clear -the decks. They at once fired their swivel-gun; but the -boat, having made its signal, all was again quiet. It was -the lieutenant, who had been to plunder the dwellings along -the river. He reported that he had only visited two or -three plantations, which he had found entirely deserted. -He added that he was going to ascend the river again, to -consign every thing to the flames. In fact, after having -supped and had sufficient consultation with his principal, he -departed again. I asked permission to go with him as far<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span> -as the fort to look for my papers, but it was refused me. -However, to soften a little the pain which this denial gave -me, Captain Potter promised that he himself would go -thither with me. I therefore summoned up my patience, -and endeavored by a little sleep to repair the loss of the -preceding night; but it was useless. The noise, the confusion, -and the bad smells did not allow me to close my -eyes.</p> - -<p>On Sunday morning, I waited to see some religious -service, for up to this time I had not recognized any mark -of Christianity; but every thing went on as usual, so that -I could not refrain from showing my surprise. The captain -told me “that in their sect each one worshipped God -in his own way; that they had among them, as elsewhere, -the good and the bad; and that ‘he who acted right would -be approved.’” At the same time he took out of his chest -a book of devotion; and I noticed that, during this day and -the following Sunday, he occasionally looked at it.<a id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> As -he always seemed to me to be very reasonable, I took pains, -from time to time, to introduce into my conversation some -word of controversy or of morality, which he received very -well, having explained to him by the interpreters what he -did not himself understand. He even told me one day “that -he did not wish longer to pursue the business of privateering; -that God might to-day give him property, which, perhaps, -might shortly be taken away from him by others; that -he was well aware he should take nothing away with him -in dying; but, nevertheless, I should not expect to find more -piety in a French, or even in a Spanish, privateer than I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span> -saw in his ship; because these sorts of armaments were -scarcely compatible with the exercises of devotion,” I confess -to you, my Reverend Father, that I was astonished to -hear <ins class="corr" id="tn-68" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'such senitments in'"> -such sentiments in</ins> the mouth of an American Huguenot<a id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a>; -for every one knows how entirely this part of the -world is removed from the kingdom of God and every thing -which can lead to it. I have often exhorted him to pray -the Lord for light, and that He would not allow him to -die in the darkness of heresy, in which he had the misfortune -to be born and brought up.</p> - -<p>As the boats were constantly going and coming, from -the shore to the vessel and from the vessel to the shore, -transporting the pillage, one came that very evening, bringing -a French soldier and five Indians. He was one of our -soldiers, who, fifteen days before, had been to seek the -Indians to engage them to work, and, not knowing that the -English were masters of the fort, had run into their hands. -I represented to Captain Potter that, as the Indians were -free among us, he neither ought to nor could take them -prisoners, particularly as they had not been found with -arms in their hands. But he answered me “that this kind -of people were used for slaves in Rodelan, and that he -should take them thither in spite of all that I could say.” -He has, in fact, carried them away, with the Aroüas whom -he had first captured in the Bay of Oyapoc. Perhaps he -has a fancy to return to this country, and intends to use -these miserable beings in making his descent on the coast, -or perhaps he will release them at Surinam.</p> - -<p>I had, nevertheless, on Monday morning, reminded him<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span> -of the promise he had made me that he would take me on -shore; but he was not then able to do any thing, and I was -obliged to content myself with fair words, so that I despaired -of ever again visiting my old home. On Tuesday, -however, he came to me to say that, if I wished to go to -the fort, <ins class="corr" id="tn-69" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'we would take me'"> -he would take me.</ins> I most willingly accepted the -offer; but, before I embarked, he strongly recommended -to me not to attempt flight, because, he assured me, I would -be stopped by the discharge of a gun. I reassured him on -that point, and we set out.</p> - -<p>The commander of the boat was the second lieutenant, -the same who had threatened to cut my tongue; and, as -I complained to the captain, who had, without doubt, spoken -to him about it, he made the strongest apologies on that -point to me while on the way, and showed me a thousand -acts of politeness.</p> - -<p>Before I was scarcely aware of it, we arrived at our -destination; and immediately I saw all those who were -guarding the fort come to the landing, some with guns and -others with swords, to receive me. Little accustomed to -good faith, perhaps, they were always afraid that I should -escape from them, in spite of all that I was able to say to -quiet them on my account.</p> - -<p>After we had taken a little rest, I asked to go to my -house, and they conducted me thither under a strong escort. -I began by first visiting the church, to enable me to see for -the last time what was its condition. As I was not able to -restrain my tears and sighs on seeing the altars overturned, -the pictures torn, the sacred stones broken in pieces and -scattered on every side, the two principal members of the -band said to me “that they were very sorry for all this disorder; -that it was done contrary to their intentions by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span> -sailors, the negroes, and the Indians, in the excitement of -pillage and the heat of drunkenness, and that they made -their apologies to me for it.” I assured them “that it was -of God principally; and, first of all, they should ask pardon -for such a desecration of His temple, and that they had -great reason to fear lest He should avenge Himself, and -punish them as they deserved.” I then threw myself on -my knees, and made a special confession to God, to the -Holy Virgin, and to Saint Joseph, in honor of whom I had -set up these altars to excite the devotion of my parishioners; -after which I arose, and we went on to my house.</p> - -<p>I had five or six persons around me, who most strictly -watched all my steps every moment, and, above all, the -direction in which I looked. I did not then understand the -occasion of all this attention on their part, but I have since -learned it. These good people, avaricious to the last extreme, -imagined that I had money concealed, and that, when -I showed so much anxiety to return to shore, it was to see -whether any one had discovered my treasure. We entered -the house, then, together; and it was the occasion of sincere -sorrow to me, I must confess, to see the frightful disorder -in which it was.</p> - -<p>It is now nearly seventeen years since I came for the -first time to Oyapoc, and began to collect all that was necessary -for the foundation of these Indian missions, foreseeing -that this section of country, where the savages are so numerous, -would furnish a great career for our zeal, and that the -parish of Oyapoc would become, as it were, the storehouse -of all the other establishments. I had not ceased ever after -to be always making better provision, through the charitable -cares of one of our Fathers, who wished to be my particular -correspondent at Cayenne. God has permitted that one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span> -single day should destroy the fruit of so much labor and -of so many years, that His holy name might be praised. -What gave me most concern was, to know that the three -missionaries who remained in that quarter were stripped -of every thing, without my having it in my power for the -present to procure even the merest necessaries, notwithstanding -all the liberality and the good intentions of our -Superiors.</p> - -<p>At last, after having gone rapidly through all the small -apartments, which were used as lodgings for our Fathers -when they came to visit me, I entered my study. I found -all my books and papers on the ground, scattered, mingled -together, and half torn to pieces. I took what I could; -but, as they pressed me to finish, I was obliged to return -to the fort.</p> - -<p>In a few hours afterwards, those arrived who had been -to plunder the dwellings; and, after being a little refreshed, -they continued their route to the ship, carrying with them -what they had pillaged, which, by their own acknowledgment -and to their great regret, was inconsiderable.</p> - -<p>The next day, all the morning was passed in making up -packages, in destroying the furniture which remained in the -different houses, and in tearing off the locks and hinges of -the doors, particularly those which were made of brass. At -last, about mid-day, they set fire to the houses of the inhabitants, -which were shortly reduced to ashes, having been -only roofed with straw, according to the custom of the -country. As I saw that mine would certainly share the -same fate, I was very pressing to be conducted thither, -that I might recover more of my books and papers than I -had hitherto been able to secure. The second lieutenant, -who was then in command, made a parade before me of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span> -discharging a pistol, which he carried in his belt, and then -he immediately loaded it, taking great pains that I should -see it. I have since learned why he took so much trouble -in this matter. Immediately afterwards, he said to me that, -if I wished to go to my house, he would conduct me.</p> - -<p>Having reached my house, I went again to look for certain -papers; and, as there remained with me only a single -sailor, who spoke French, all the others being a little scattered, -he said to me, “My Father, all our people are at a -distance; save yourself, if you wish.” I was well aware -that he wished me to attempt it, and I therefore replied -coldly to him “that men of my profession do not know -what it is to break their word.” I added “that, if I had -wished to take to flight, I could long ago have done so, -as there had been many favorable opportunities while they -were amusing themselves with pillaging or drinking.”</p> - -<p>At length, after having thoroughly searched everywhere -without finding any thing more, I informed them that I -had finished, and that we could go when it pleased them. -Then the lieutenant approached me, with a grave and threatening -air, and told me, through the interpreter, “that I -must show the place where I had concealed my money, or -I would find myself in trouble.” I answered, with that -confidence which truth gives, “that I had not concealed any -money; that, if I had thought to put any thing in a place -of safety, I should have begun with those things that are -used at the altar.” “Deny the fact as you will,” the interpreter -then replied to me by order of the officer, “we are -certain, and cannot doubt it, that you have a large amount -of money, for the soldiers who are our prisoners on board -have told us so; and yet we have found but very little in -your wardrobe. You must, therefore, have concealed it;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span> -and, if you do not immediately give it up, take care of yourself. -You know that my pistol is not badly loaded.” I fell -on my knees, saying “that they were masters of my life, -since I was in their hands and at their will; that if, however, -they wished to go to that extreme, I begged them to -allow me a moment for prayer; that, for the rest, I had -no other money than what they had already taken.” At -last, after having left me for some time in that position, -and looking at each other, they told me to rise and follow -them. They took me under the gallery of the house, which -was built over a little grove of cocoa-trees, which I had -planted like an orchard, and, having made me sit down, the -lieutenant also took a chair, and then putting on an air of -gayety, he said, “that I had no occasion for fear, as they -did not intend to do me any injury; but that it was impossible -I had not concealed any thing, since there was sufficient -time, as I had seen them from before my door when -they came to take the fort.” I replied to him, what I had -already said so often, “that we had been so much terrified -by the noise they made during the night, with their shouts -and cries, and the incessant firing they kept up, that at first -we thought of nothing but escaping death by a speedy flight; -the more so as we imagined that they had scattered themselves -at the same time through all the houses.”</p> - -<p>“But, after all,” he replied, “the French prisoners are -well acquainted with your means. Why should they have -told us that you had plenty of money, if it were not true?”</p> - -<p>“Do you not see,” said I, “that they wished to conciliate -you, and make their court to you at my expense?”</p> - -<p>“No, no,” he continued; “it is because you do not wish -to give up your money. I nevertheless assure you, and I -give you my word of honor, that you shall have your liberty,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span> -and that we will release you here without burning -your houses, if you will, after all, show your treasure.”</p> - -<p>“It is entirely useless,” I answered him, wearied with all -these conversations, “that you follow me up with these -earnest appeals. Again, once for all, I have nothing else -to say to you but what I have so often repeated.”</p> - -<p>He then spoke to the sailor who acted as interpreter, and -who had kept his eyes on me during all this interview, to -see whither I directed my looks. He then went out to visit -my cocoa-grove. I then recalled a little interview I had -with the captain, a few days before. I said to him “that, -if the sentinels had done their duty, and given us notice -of the arrival of the enemy, we would have concealed our -most valuable effects.”</p> - -<p>“In what place,” he asked me, “would you have hid all -these things? Would you have hid them in the ground?”</p> - -<p>“No,” I replied; “we would have been contented with -carrying them into the woods, and covering them with -branches.”</p> - -<p>It was, then, for this, that these cunning pirates, who -weigh and put together all our words, imagining that I did -not have sufficient time to carry very far what I esteemed -most precious, were induced, as the last effort of their -cupidity and distrust, to make a search under the trees in -my garden. But it was impossible that they should find -what had never been placed there; so the sailor soon grew -tired of searching; and, he having returned, we went together -to the fort,—they without any booty, and I with -some few of the papers I had collected.</p> - -<p>Then for some time they consulted together, and about -three o’clock they went to set my house on fire. I prayed -them at least to spare the church, and this they promised<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span> -me. But, notwithstanding, they burned it; and when I complained, -they told me that the winds, which that day were -very high there, had undoubtedly carried thither some -sparks, which had set it on fire. With this answer I was -obliged to be contented, leaving to God the time, the care, -and the manner of avenging the insult offered to His house. -For myself, seeing the flames rising up to the clouds, and -having my heart pained with the most lively sorrow, I began -to recite the seventy-eighth Psalm, “<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Deus venerunt gentes</i>,” -&c. (“O God, the heathen are come into thine inheritance,” -&c.)</p> - -<p>At last, after every thing was carried to the boats, we -ourselves embarked. It was a little after five o’clock; and -the sailors, who were to follow us in two small boats, finished -by burning all the buildings of the fort. At length, -having rowed out a little into the river, and allowing themselves -to clear the shore very slowly with the current, they -shouted many times, “<em>Houra</em>,” which is their “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive le roi</i>,” -and their cry of joy. They had not, however, any great -occasion to pride themselves on their expedition, since, had -it not been for the black treason which delivered us into -their hands, they would never have succeeded. Neither -was it of any use; because, though they had inflicted a great -injury on us, they had themselves derived very little profit -from it.</p> - -<p>I had expected to find the ship where I left it; but it had -already stood off in such a way that we did not arrive there -till the night was far advanced; so that they did not discharge -their booty until the next day, the morning of the -19th of the month. During the whole of this day they made -no progress, although they used their oars, as their sails -were useless for want of wind. This delay disquieted me<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> -very much, because I wished as soon as possible to know -my fate. “Would they leave me at Cayenne?” I said to -myself. “Will they carry me to Surinam? Will they take -me to Barbadoes? or even as far as New England?” And, -as I was occupying myself with these inquiries, lying in -my berth, which I was not able to quit on account of my -great weakness and the seasickness, which afflicted me terribly, -some one came to tell me that they had sent on shore -three of our soldiers, with one old Indian, captured in the -canoe of the Aroüas, of which I have already spoken. I -was a little surprised; and, on asking the captain the reason, -he told me that it made so many useless mouths the less.</p> - -<p>“And why,” said I, “do you not do the same towards all -the other prisoners?”</p> - -<p>“It is,” said he, “because I am waiting for a good ransom -for the rest of you.”</p> - -<p>He would have given a much truer excuse if he had said, -that, wishing to make a descent on Cayenne, he was afraid -that some of his people might be captured, in which case -he wished to have some with whom to make an exchange, -which did in reality happen, as we shall see in the end.</p> - -<p>The wind having freshened a little in the evening, we -continued our voyage through the whole night, and before -noon approached Cayenne, off a high rock named Connestable, -and which is five or six leagues distant. They had -already learned of the disaster which had befallen Oyapoc,—perhaps -by a note which a young Indian had written, or -perhaps through some inhabitants of Aproakac, who had -come to take refuge at Cayenne. But they were ignorant -of all the circumstances; and the public, as it commonly -happens in such cases, set in circulation many reports, each -one more false than the last. Some said that every person<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span> -at Oyapoc had been massacred, and that I, in particular, -had suffered a thousand cruelties. Others published that -there were many ships there, and that Cayenne would be -obliged to submit to the same fate. What seemed to give -a little sanction to the last news was, that the ship which -had captured us carried with it three boats, which, with -the long-boat, made five vessels. All having sails and looming -up, at a distance caused them to make a formidable -appearance to those who were on shore.</p> - -<p>For myself,—in the persuasion I had that our Fathers, -whom I had left in the woods, or some other of the French -who had fled, would not fail to go as soon as possible to -Cayenne to give them certain intelligence of our sad lot, -or at least to forward ample information with regard to -it,—I imagined they would send some one to rescue me. -But I was deceiving myself, and they were entirely ignorant -of every thing that had happened to me. So Friday passed, -and the next day we cast anchor very near the Enfant -Perdu. This is a rock, distant from the land six thousand -and thirteen <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">toises</i>,<a id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> as it has been exactly measured by M. -de la Condamine, member of the Royal Academy of Sciences, -on his return from Peru.</p> - -<p>Towards nine o’clock in the morning, after a great stir -in the ship, I saw two large boats set out, which went to a -little river called Macouria, especially to plunder the residence -of a certain lady; in revenge, they said, for some -grievances which had been previously suffered by the English, -who had gone there to purchase syrups. For, my Reverend -Father, you must know that in time of peace that -nation trades to this place, principally to furnish horses<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span> -for the sugar plantations.<a id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> As I saw but thirteen men in -each boat, including two Frenchmen, who were to serve -as guides, I began from that moment to entertain some -hopes of my liberty; because I fully believed, as the weather -was very clear, they would see this manœuvre from the -land, and not fail to fall upon them. I was thus indulging -in these pleasant thoughts when they came to tell me that -the boats were about to go first to Couron, which is about -four leagues distant from Macouria, to capture there, if -possible, Father Lombard, the missionary, who had labored -with so much success and for so long a time in Guyane, in -the conversion of the Indians. Their object was, that they -might exact a ransom for him in conformity with his age -and merits.</p> - -<p>I leave you to imagine how like the stroke of a thunderbolt -news of this kind came upon me, for I was well assured -that, if this worthy missionary should be brought on -board our ship, he would entirely sink under the fatigue. -But Providence, which was not willing to afflict our missions -to this extent, defeated their plan. They ran aground -on the way, and were obliged to hold to their first design, -which was to ravage Macouria alone. They, in fact, arrived -there on Sunday morning, and spent that day and -the following night in pillaging and destroying the dwelling -which was the object of their hate. On Monday morning, -after having set fire to the buildings, they returned on -board, without having received the least opposition from -any one. The negroes were so thoroughly terrified that -they did not dare to show themselves, and the French who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span> -had been dispatched from Cayenne on Sunday morning had -not yet been able to reach there.</p> - -<p>During this expedition, those who had remained with me -in the ship reasoned each one in accordance with his desires -or his fears. Some prophesied a fortunate result to this -enterprise, and others wished for it. At length, as each -one was thus indulging in his own peculiar views, I saw -again a great movement on board of our ship, towards three -o’clock in the afternoon. It was caused by the departure -of the boatswain, an energetic man, bold and determined, -who, in command of nine men only, went in the long-boat -to attempt a descent on the coast very near Cayenne, using -as his guide a negro, who knew the coast, because he was -a native of it. Perhaps also Captain Potter wished to make -a diversion, and in that way prevent their sending a force -from Cayenne against those of his people who had gone -to Macouria.</p> - -<p>However that might be, when I first learned the departure -of the long-boat I could not doubt but that the Lord wished -to relieve me from my captivity, persuaded as I was that, -if the first party was not attacked, the second certainly -would be. And what I anticipated in reality took place. -The ten Englishmen, after having pillaged one of our dwellings, -were encountered by a company of French, and entirely -defeated. Three were killed on the spot, and seven -were made prisoners. On our side there was but one soldier -wounded, in the shoulder, by a musket-shot. As to my -poor negro, it is surprising that in this fight he was not -even wounded. The Lord, without doubt, wished to recompense -him for his fidelity to his master. It was from him -that they at length learned at Cayenne the particulars of -the capture of Oyapoc, and every thing that related to me -personally.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span></p> - -<p>We who were on board were exceedingly anxious to learn -the result of all these expeditions; but nothing came either -from the shore or from Macouria. At last, when the sun -began to appear, and it became sufficiently light for us to -see at a distance, there was a constant stream of sailors -going up to the round-top and coming down, who always -reported that they could see nothing. But at nine o’clock, -Captain Potter came himself to tell me that he had seen -three boats which, leaving Cayenne, had gone in the direction -of Macouria, and no doubt were in pursuit of his -people. To tranquillize him a little, I answered, “that they -might be the boats of the inhabitants, who, after having -heard Mass, were returning to their homes.”</p> - -<p>“No,” he replied, “those are boats full of people. I have -seen them perfectly with my glass, at a distance.”</p> - -<p>“Your people,” I suggested, “will perhaps have left the -river before the others reach it, and after that there can -be no collision.”</p> - -<p>“All this does not worry me,” he said. “My people are -well armed and full of courage. The fortunes of war must -decide it, if the two parties meet.”</p> - -<p>“But what do you think of your long-boat?” I asked him.</p> - -<p>“I think it is captured,” he said.</p> - -<p>“Excuse me,” said I to him, “if I say to you that there -was a little temerity in your running the risk of a descent -with so small a force. Do you, then, imagine that Cayenne -is an Oyapoc?”</p> - -<p>“That was far from being my idea,” he answered; “but -it is the too great ardor and excessive energy of the boatswain -which has caused it. So much the worse for him -if he has come to evil! I am, however, sorry for it,” he -continued; “for I have a great esteem for him, and he was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span> -very necessary to me. He has, without doubt, exceeded -my orders; for I had advised him not to land, but only to -examine from a short distance as to the most commodious -place to disembark.”</p> - -<p>After we had thus conferred together for a short time, -he caused them to raise the anchor, and approached as near -as possible to land and to Macouria. His object was as -much to cut off the way for our boats, as to cover his people -and shorten the return for them.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless, all Sunday passed in great anxiety. Our -enemies were aware of the fact that there were three ships -in the harbor, because the boats going to Macouria had -approached sufficiently near the port to discover them, and -they had made the signal agreed upon with Captain Potter. -But some had fears lest these vessels might come out and -attack the ship during the night. So, about seven o’clock -in the evening, they placed two swivel-guns in the windows, -besides the twelve which were on deck along the sides of -the ship. But the captain was very composed. He told -me “that, so far from fearing that they would come and -attack him, he, on the contrary, desired it; hoping thus to -gain possession of those who should dare to approach him.” -He was thoroughly armed as a privateer: sabres, pistols, -guns, lances, grenades, balls filled with bitumen and sulphur, -grape-shot,—nothing was wanting.</p> - -<p>I believe that no one slept that night. However, nothing -appeared, either from Macouria or Cayenne, which was the -cause of great uneasiness to us all. At length, at eight -o’clock in the morning, the captain came to tell me that he -had seen a great deal of smoke on the shore at Macouria, -and that his people had without doubt set fire to the buildings -of Madame Gislet. (This is the name of the lady to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span> -whose residence the English had particularly directed their -attention.) “I am very sorry,” he added, “for I had expressly -forbidden them to burn any thing.” A little while -after, they saw from the height of the round-top five canoes -or boats, some of which seemed to be pursuing each other. -They were our French people, who were giving chase to the -English. Captain Potter, an able man in his profession, -at once perceived this, and took measures accordingly; for -he raised his anchor, and made again a movement to approach -them. He called all his people to arms, having at -the same time obliged all the prisoners, whether French or -English, to descend into the hold. I wished myself to go -there also; but he told me I could remain in my cabin, and -he would notify me when it was time.</p> - -<p>In the midst of this excitement, one of the boats which -had come from Macouria drew nigh, as by dint of rowing; -and to assure themselves that they were English, those in -the vessel raised their pennant and flag and fired a gun, to -which the boats having responded by the discharge of a -musket, the signal on which they had agreed, tranquillity -succeeded this first movement of fear. But there remained -as yet one boat behind, which was coming very slowly with -the <em>pagaye</em> (a kind of scull, or oar, which the Indians use -to row their canoes), and they feared that it would be captured -by our boats. No sooner, therefore, had the officer -who commanded the first discharged in haste the little they -had brought with them, than he hurried back to convoy it. -After having conducted it to its destination, and all the -little booty they had taken having been embarked in the -ship, each one thought of refreshing himself to the utmost -for the fatigues of this marauding. Punch, lemonade, wine, -brandy, sugar,—nothing was spared. Thus passed the rest -of the day and the night of Sunday to Monday.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span></p> - -<p>Among all these successes,—which, however inconsiderable -they really might be, were yet occasions of triumph for -them,—there remained one great source of chagrin, which -was the capture of the long-boat and of the ten men who -had landed in it. It became necessary, therefore, to think -seriously of some means of rescuing them. For this reason, -on Monday morning, after having consulted among themselves -and held council after council, they came to find me, -to say that, their ship dragging considerably, perhaps on -account of the currents, which are very strong in these latitudes, -or perhaps because they had only one small anchor -remaining, they could not longer hold their anchorage, and -they thought, therefore, of going to Surinam, a Dutch colony, -twenty-four leagues or thereabouts from Cayenne; -but, however, they very much wished to receive first some -news of their long-boat and the people who had landed on -Saturday.</p> - -<p>I told them, in reply, “that this was very easy; that it -was only necessary to fit out one of the boats which they -had taken from us, and to send it to Cayenne with the proposal -for an exchange of prisoners.”</p> - -<p>“But would they be willing to receive us?” they asked -me; “would they not inflict on us some injury? Would -they permit us to return?”</p> - -<p>It was easy for me to remove doubts which had so little -foundation, by telling them, as is the case, “that the law of -nations is the same in all countries; that the French did -not pride themselves less than the English in observing it; -that nothing was so common among civilized people as to -see the generals mutually sending heralds-at-arms, trumpeters, -or drummers, to carry their terms of agreement; -and that, therefore, they need have no fear for those of -their crew whom they might send to land.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span></p> - -<p>After renewed consultations, which they held among -themselves, they began to make their proposals, some of -which I found to be entirely unreasonable. For example, -they wished to have returned to them their boat with all -the arms, and to have all the prisoners released, whatever -might be their number, in exchange for only four Frenchmen, -which was our number.</p> - -<p>I answered him, “that I did not think they would accede -to this article of war; that, as far as it related to men, the -usage is to change them head for head.”</p> - -<p>“But, you alone, do you not value yourself as much as -thirty sailors?” said one of the crowd to me.</p> - -<p>“No, certainly,” I answered; “a man of my profession, -in time of war, should not count for any thing.”</p> - -<p>“All this is very well for wit,” said the captain; “but, -since you take it in that way, I must go and make sail. -I am able very well to bear the loss of ten men; it leaves -me a large enough crew to continue my voyage.”</p> - -<p>Immediately he went out of the cabin to give his orders, -and they began working the ship, &c. But, through all this -manœuvring, I saw very well that it was only a feint on -their part to intimidate me and induce me to offer them two -thousand piastres, which they had already demanded for -my ransom.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless, as I had a great desire to free myself from -their hands, although I did not let it appear outwardly, -I took occasion to call Captain Potter and say to him, “that -he need not be influenced by my views; that he could at -any time send a boat to Cayenne to make the proposals -which he judged proper, leaving it to Monsieur the Commandant -to accept or reject them.” He followed this suggestion, -and begged me myself to dictate the letter which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span> -he wished written; and this I did, as his secretary, following -exactly what he caused me to say.</p> - -<p>I also, on my own account, wrote a few words to Monsieur -d’Orvilliers and Father de Villeconte (our Superior-General), -praying the first to stipulate in the articles of -negotiation, if he had an opportunity, that they should return -to me every thing in their possession belonging to my -church; offering myself to pay as much silver in weight -as would equal that of the silver vessels, and a certain sum -on which we would agree for the furniture, ornaments, and -linen. At the same time, I begged our Father, if this negotiation -succeeded, to send me the silver and the necessary -balance for the account, by the return of the boat, to the -place where the exchange of prisoners was to be made,—that -is to say, half-way between the ship and the land.</p> - -<p>All these letters being prepared, the boat was dispatched, -and they sent in it, as the bearer of these letters, a sergeant -who had been made prisoner at Oyapoc. He was ordered -to use the utmost diligence; and, as he was an energetic -man, we should have had a prompt reply, but the wind -and the current were so contrary that they could not make -the port of Cayenne. We were all exceedingly disappointed: -the English, because they began to be in want of water -and their ship drifted again considerably, having only, as -I have said, one small anchor, which they were obliged to -manage with a grappling-iron; and we Frenchmen, because -we were very anxious to regain our liberty. It was necessary, -however, to be patient and to resign ourselves to the -will of God until He should cause some new way to be -opened.</p> - -<p>At last, on Wednesday morning, having determined to -ask the captain what course he had determined to pursue,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span> -I was agreeably surprised by hearing him say “that if I -wished to go to Cayenne I was my own master, with the -condition that I should cause to be sent back all the English -<ins class="corr" id="tn-86" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'who were prsioners'"> -who were prisoners</ins> there.”</p> - -<p>“That does not depend upon me,” I said to him; “but I -will promise to make every effort with Monsieur the Commandant -to obtain it.”</p> - -<p>After some slight objections, which I easily removed, we -wrote a new letter to Monsieur d’Orvilliers, of which I was -to be the bearer, and, every thing being ready, we embarked—four -French and five English—to go to Cayenne. In -taking leave of the captain, I said to him, “that if the war -continued, and he or any others of his nation should come -to Cayenne, I could not again be made prisoner.” He -answered me, “that he knew that already; the custom being -not twice to make prisoner of the same person in the course -of the same war, at least, unless he should be taken with -arms in his hands.”</p> - -<p>I then thanked him for his honorable treatment of myself, -and, grasping his hand, I said to him: “Monsieur, -two things give me pain at this parting. It is not exactly -the pillage you have made at Oyapoc, because the French -will perhaps return you the same with interest; but it is, -in the first place, because we have not both of us the same -faith; and in the second place, because your people have not -been willing to return to me the furniture of my church -on the conditions I proposed, reasonable as they are, for it -causes me to fear lest the profanation of what belongs to -the temple of the Lord may draw down His anger upon -you. I would advise you,” I added, while embracing him, -“to pray God each day to enlighten you as to the true way -to heaven; for as there is but one God, so there can be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span> -but one true faith.” After which I descended into the boat -which was to carry us; and immediately I saw all the crew -come up on deck, the flag and pennant were hoisted, the -gun was fired, and we were many times saluted with -“<em>Houras</em>,” to which we replied as often with “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Vive le roi</i>.”</p> - -<p>Scarcely had we gone a quarter of a league on our way -when the ship got under sail, and, toward five o’clock, we -lost sight of her. The sea, however, was very rough, and -we had only miserable oars to row with, when, to complete -our difficulty, our rudder became disabled. A hinge, which -was held in its place by a screw below, came out and fell -into the sea. We then resorted to the only expedient in -our power, that of attaching the ring of the rudder to the -stern-post of the boat; but the iron shortly wore off the -cord, and we found ourselves in great danger. What increased -our fear was, that the night became very dark, and -we were far distant from land. We determined, therefore, -to anchor until next morning, when we could find out some -way to relieve ourselves from this unfortunate condition. -As the English appreciated better than we did the peril in -which we were, one of them proposed to me to hoist the -lantern high up on one of the masts, as a signal for succor. -But I represented to him its uselessness, because we were -too far distant to be seen, and, besides, no one would dare -to come to us in the uncertainty whether we were friends -or enemies.</p> - -<p>Thus we passed a distressing night, between life and -death; and what was very remarkable is, that we had -anchored, without knowing it, between two large rocks, -which we did not see until day dawned. After having returned -thanks to God for having so visibly protected us, -we resolved to gain the river, that, if possible, we might<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span> -repair the boat, or procure another at the neighboring dwellings, -or, as a last resource, go by land to Cayenne. But -behold! a new accident. As we took down the large mast, -not having much strength of crew, they allowed it to go -on the opposite side from that on which it should naturally -fall. We all thought it would have crushed M. de la -Landerie, but happily he had only some slight bruises. We -took at that time—the sergeant and myself—one oar to -steer, the others each taking one to row; and, aided partly -by the wind (for we carried our foremast to enable us to -avoid the breakers), and partly by the tide, which began -to rise, but, above all, conducted by the Divine Providence -which guided us, on the morning of the 26th we entered -the little river Macouria, which I have already mentioned. -None of us were acquainted with the channel; so that the -English themselves earnestly avowed that it was God who -had conducted us, safe and sound, in spite of the great -dangers.</p> - -<p>Our first object was to obtain some means of getting to -Cayenne; but this was not an easy matter. In addition to -the fact that we could not find a boat or any way of repairing -our own, the negroes, who were the only persons -left at the dwellings, were so frightened that they did not -wish to recognize us. As it had already become known -that I was a prisoner, they feared lest the English had sent -me ashore as a lure, through my means to entrap the slaves. -Nevertheless, after many protestations and prayers and -solicitations, I reassured some, who, more courageous than -the rest, dared to approach us; and, through their means, -we obtained some little refreshment, of which we certainly -stood very much in need. For myself, as I was scarcely -able to take any nourishment, <ins class="corr" id="tn-88" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'and fo this reason'"> -and for this reason</ins> was very -weak, I was hardly able to sustain myself.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span></p> - -<p>As soon as each one was a little recruited, I consigned -to the negroes the boat, which we left in their care with -all the rigging and sails, and we set out on our journey to -Cayenne, along the borders of the ocean. We did not wish -to go into the interior of the country, for fear of affording -our enemies a knowledge of the place, which hereafter -might be an injury to us. The night which followed favored -my design, and I can say with truth that the five English -whom I took with me saw nothing which could be of any -service to them, if at any future day, in the course of this -war, they should take a fancy to return to us.</p> - -<p>It would be difficult, not to say impossible, my Reverend -Father, to describe to you what we suffered during this -journey of only three or four leagues. As the tide rose, -and for that reason we were obliged to make our way over -the high ground of the shore, where the sand is very shifting, -we sunk into it; and most of us had the greatest difficulty -to drag ourselves along, so that I frequently saw the -greater part of our party obliged to stop and rest. The -English, particularly, being little accustomed to march, -found the journey very long, and would have been very -willing to be back in their vessel. But it was their fault -that they found themselves in such difficulty. In sending -us ashore, they themselves knew that the boat in which we -embarked was unseaworthy. They should have given me -notice of it at the time, and I would have demanded another -from the captain.</p> - -<p>At last, by dint of encouraging and animating them, we -reached the point which the river forms, and which fronts -on the roadstead. It was about midnight when we arrived -at the dwelling of Madame de Charanville, where the slaves, -knowing the good heart and generosity of their mistress,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span> -although alone, gave us the best reception they were able, -to recompense us for the privations we had suffered. I had -taken the precaution to send before us a negro of our party, -to remove their fears on our arrival; for without this, we -should have run a great risk of not being received, so great -was the fright which had everywhere seized on these poor -wretches. So good a reception gave great satisfaction to -the English, who themselves feared being killed or maltreated -by the negroes, which would certainly have happened -had I not been with them. For this reason they never -left me. At length, after having taken a little rest, as soon -as it was day we embarked in a boat we had found, and -continued our route to Cayenne.</p> - -<p>No sooner had they seen us at a great distance, than they -well knew from our white flag that we were the deputies -who came to make terms; and they immediately sent down -a detachment to the port, who received us at the point of -the bayonet and with presented arms, as is the custom on -such occasions. All the ramparts which fronted the roadstead, -and the rising ground on which the fort is situated, -were entirely covered with people. Having directed the -sergeant to remain in the boat with all his company until -I had spoken to the commandant, I myself landed. The -Brother Pittet had recognized me with his glass, at a long -distance, and hastened himself to give me his hand.</p> - -<p>It was a very consoling spectacle, my Reverend Father, -to see all Cayenne coming to meet me. In the streets -through which I had passed, there was so great a crowd -of people that I had difficulty in making my way. The -rich as well as the poor, even all the slaves, pressed around -to give me proofs of the pleasure which my restoration to -freedom afforded them. Many bathed me with their tears<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span> -when embracing me. I do not blush to say that I was -myself overcome in recognizing such great demonstrations -of friendship. A large crowd followed me even into the -church, to which I first repaired to return thanks to God -for the great blessings He had bestowed upon me, and for -which I pray you, my Reverend Father, to give thanks also.</p> - -<p>Our Fathers and our Brothers distinguished themselves -on this occasion, and extended their charity, in my behalf, -as far as it was possible to carry it. As all my clothes were -in a pitiable state, they eagerly brought me every thing -which was necessary. In this way I realized to the letter -the truth of that declaration of our Lord: “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Quiconque -quittera son père, sa mère, ses frères, pour l’amour de moi, -recevra le centuple en ce monde</i>.” (Whosoever shall leave -his father, his mother, his brethren, for my sake, shall receive -an hundred-fold in this world.)</p> - -<p>We often talked together over the evils which might again -happen to us, and I was always very much edified at seeing -their holy emulation; each one wishing to sacrifice himself -to succor the wounded in case of an attack. But I thought -that having already had some experience in this matter, -and not being able to be again made prisoner during the -continuance of this war, I should have the preference, and -begin the service in discharging the duties of our ministry. -We can, however, hope that neither the one nor the other -will be obliged to come forward in this way, but that the -victorious arms of the king will shortly bring about a solid -and lasting peace. As soon as I had made my report and -forwarded my letters to Monsieur d’Orvilliers, who was in -retirement in his house on account of the death of Madame -his wife, he gave orders that the five English who had come -with me should be conducted, with their eyes bandaged,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span> -according to custom in such cases, to the guard-house, where -they were to be confined; after which, he made the necessary -arrangements for sending them back to their ship, with -the seven other prisoners whom I have already mentioned, -all of whom he was very willing to free, in a great measure -through consideration to myself. On the following day, -the 28th, they departed during the night in their long-boat, -with all the tackle and provisions necessary. We have reason -to wish that they should arrive safe in port, because -we have written by them to the Governor of Surinam; and -I myself on my own account have done so, to endeavor, -through his instrumentality, to recover what belonged to -my church, on the conditions agreed upon with Captain -Potter when we parted. But if I should not succeed in -recovering these things, I flatter myself that you, my Reverend -Father, would be entirely willing to supply this deficiency -by sending me a complete church service, for every -thing has been lost.</p> - -<p>On my arrival at Cayenne, I had found there the officer -who was at Oyapoc when it was taken, and who since then -has returned thither with the chief surgeon and a party of -soldiers. Since that time, the commandant himself has -gone back with the rest of the detachment, to await the -orders which the Court shall give with regard to Oyapoc. -The fort which we have just lost was built in 1725, under -the direction of M. d’Orvilliers, Governor of this colony, -and had thus been in existence but nineteen years. We do -not know whether the Court will think proper to re-establish -it.</p> - -<p>It was a great consolation to me to learn that our two -missionaries, the Fathers d’Autillac and d’Huberlant, have -returned each to his own post, after having entirely got over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span> -their fatigues before they went back. They had again much -to suffer, until we were able to furnish them with assistance. -They write me that the Indians, who had been at first exceedingly -frightened, had begun to be reassured, and that -they continued to render all the services in their power to -the inhabitants who remained in that quarter awaiting the -new order.</p> - -<p>You see, my Reverend Father, a very long letter, and, -perhaps, one a little too long. I should esteem myself -happy if it is able to afford you any pleasure, for I had no -other object in writing. I am, with respect, in the unity -of your holy sacrifices, &c.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"></div> -<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="margtop1">FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> <cite>The Landfall of Leif</cite>, <cite>The Problem of the Northmen</cite>, <cite>The Defences -of Norumbega</cite>, <cite>The Discovery of the Ancient City</cite>, <cite>Leif’s House in -Vinland</cite>, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> W. H. Babcock, <cite>Early Norse Visits to America</cite>. Smithsonian -Misc. Colls., Vol. 59, No. 19.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> Babcock, p. 139.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Astronomical calculations demonstrate that the sun rose and set -at the time mentioned, October 17, in Latitude 41°, 24′, 10″, almost -exactly that of Narragansett Bay.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> In Old Norse the term “Hop” was applied to any inlet, fiord or -harbor with a narrow entrance, widening inside not far from the entrance -to a larger lake or lagoon into which a river flowed.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> The commander of the Prince Charles of Lorraine, of whom we -shall write later.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> The words used by Father Fauque are “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">corsaire anglois</i>.”—<em>Trans.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Les corsaires.</i></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> Suspecting that <em>Rodelan</em> and <em>Rhode Island</em> were similar enough in -sound to mislead Father Fauque, we examined the list of governors -of Rhode Island, and found that William Greene was governor in -1744-5. This, therefore, was a Rhode Island privateer.<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> Father -Fauque says Captain Potter was “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Creole de la Nouvelle Angleterre</i>.” -He, of course, means he was a native of New England, and we have -thus translated it.—<em>Trans.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> The Prince Charles was owned in Newport. See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_44">p. 44</a>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> Very true.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> Some of these are still preserved in Bristol.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> See testimony of Jeffrey Potter, <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_46">p. 46</a>.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[14]</a> A series of devotions extending through nine days.—<em>Trans.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[15]</a> From 1715 to 1786 Rhode Island suffered from the issue of Bills -of Credit, or paper money.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">[16]</a> <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Nota bene.</i>—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">[17]</a> Either Captain Potter or Father Fauque, in this statement, makes -a mistake. On November 5th, in England, they celebrate their escape -from the “Gunpowder Plot.” There is in the Prayer-book “A Form -of Prayer with Thanksgiving,” which is to be used on that day “for -the happy deliverance of King James I. and the Three Estates of -England from the most traitorous and blood-intended massacre by -Gunpowder; and also for the happy arrival of His Majesty King -William on this day, for the deliverance of our church and nation.” -The common people call it “Guy Fawkes’ Day.”<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>—<em>Trans.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">[18]</a> Guy Fawkes’ Day was observed with great fidelity, as far as noise -was concerned, by Bristol boys of the last generation.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19" class="label">[19]</a> Captain Potter was a member of St. Michael’s Church, Bristol, -and as a good Church of England man was reading his Book of -Common Prayer.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20" class="label">[20]</a> Potter was not a Huguenot. If Father Fauque had known of the -heresies abounding in “Rodelan” his astonishment would have been -equalled by his horror.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21" class="label">[21]</a> A <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">toise</i> is two yards.—<em>Trans.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22" class="label">[22]</a> “Narragansett Pacers” were greatly in demand in the West Indies, -and on the “Spanish Main.”—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span><br /> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span><br /></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="p4 nobreak" id="PART_II">PART II<br /> -<br /> -NORWEST JOHN AND THE VOYAGE OF THE JUNO</h2> -</div> - -<hr class="p6 chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span><br /> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h3>1—NORWEST JOHN</h3> -</div> - -<p>John De Wolf was born in Bristol on September 6, 1779. -His father, Simon, the third son of Mark Anthony, -founder of the Bristol family, was lost at sea with his older -brother, Mark, in 1779 or ’80, when his only child was but -an infant in arms. He was forced by poverty to begin a -seafaring life at the age of thirteen. His great ability -quickly manifested itself and at the age of twenty-four -he was placed in command of a vessel bound on one of the -most fascinating as well as one of the most hazardous voyages -known to the commerce of that time, a voyage to the -Northwest Coast. The story of his experiences he tells -in the pages that follow. For some years after his return -to his native town he continued in the Russian-American -trade for which the knowledge of the language gained during -his stay in Russian territory well qualified him. Having -attained the age of forty-eight he retired from the sea and -for some years lived, like many retired captains, the life -of a farmer, upon the farm occupied for years as a summer -home by his relative, the late Bishop Howe of Central -Pennsylvania. Thence he moved to a farm at Brighton, -Massachusetts, and, leaving that, spent the last years of his -life with his daughter, Mrs. Downing, at Dorchester. Very -delightful must have been those last years. The daring -sailor whose nerves had never failed him in moments of -greatest peril on the ocean was a man of tender nature -and of a most lovable disposition.</p> - -<p>Of him his granddaughter penned this beautiful picture:<a id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span></p> - -<p>“I never knew a more beautiful old age. Beloved by those -of all ages, he had many friends among the young people -and was young with them, and his grandchildren were devoted -to him. They called him ‘White Grandpa,’ on account -of his silvery hair, to distinguish him from my father. -They always knew in just what spot in the room to look -for candy and fruits which he always had for them, and -if there was anything they particularly wanted they were -always sure that ‘White Grandpa’ would give it to them. -Like so many old people it was hard for him to adapt himself -to modern improvements. And especially the new ideas -of shipbuilding were not always to his liking. At a window -of a room in our summer home, commanding a fine view -of Boston harbor, we would often find him holding his spy-glass -at arm’s length, and if sometimes we would ask ‘What -do you see, Grandpa?’ he would invariably reply, ‘I was -looking at those blasted three masted schooners.’”</p> - -<p>In the days of his life at sea a three masted schooner -was almost unknown, and the schooner rigged vessel was -rarely seen except on the American coast of the North -Atlantic Ocean. Everywhere else square sails were the rule. -Even the “tub” of twenty-five tons on which Captain De -Wolf made his voyage of twenty-five hundred miles to -Ochotsk was a brig. At his death no naval constructor -had dreamed of a five masted schooner, and a seven master -would have been deemed impossible. Today all the great -colliers carry five or six masts and there is not a square -rigger among them. The schooner rig is distinctively -American. The first schooner ever constructed is said to -have been built in Gloucester, Massachusetts, about the year -1713, by Captain Andrew Robinson. In two centuries it -has driven the square rigged ship from the Atlantic coast<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span> -of North America. In the great ports upon the Pacific -coast square sails are still frequent, though they are seen -for the most part upon the masts of foreign ships. The -schooner rig has conquered even that former home of most -rigid conservatism which was opened to the commerce of -the world in 1854, by a Rhode Island naval officer, when -Commodore M. C. Perry dropped anchor near the little -fishing village of Yokohama, Japan. As one passes through -the “Inland Sea” today he notes that all the fleet craft skimming -over its waves are rigged in the American way. The -schooner has driven the slow moving “junk” out of business -as far as those waters are concerned.</p> - -<p>Captain De Wolf died in Dorchester, on March 8, 1872, -aged ninety-two.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h3>2—VOYAGE OF THE JUNO</h3> -</div> - -<p class="pfs70">A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH PACIFIC AND A JOURNEY THROUGH -SIBERIA MORE THAN HALF A CENTURY AGO. BY CAPTAIN -JOHN D’WOLF. (CAMBRIDGE, 1861)</p> - - -<h4><em>Preface</em></h4> - -<p>My only object in combining the reminiscences and -memoranda of my first voyage as a shipmaster into a connected -narrative is to leave some slight record of that -voyage in my family. Although I am not one of those -who regard everything beyond the smoke of their own -chimneys as marvellous I think my expedition to the Northwest -Coast was made a little remarkable from the circumstance -that I met at Norfolk Sound his Excellency Baron -von Resanoff, to whom I sold my vessel, and then crossed -the Pacific in a little craft of twenty-five tons burden, and -after an overland journey of twenty-five hundred miles -returned home by way of St. Petersburg. This was a voyage -and travels more than half a century ago, and I was -probably the first American who passed through Siberia. -I know that others have claimed to be the first, and have -published descriptions of the country; but I had gone over -the same route before any of these claimants were born. -I have often regretted that I did not make any note of what -I saw, and that I had not the requisite qualifications to write -an extended account of it; but business called my thoughts -in other directions. I must now be content to give this -imperfect sketch, the materials of which are drawn principally -from memory.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span></p> - - -<p class="p2 pfs120 lsp">VOYAGE.</p> - -<h4>I.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>The Ship Juno.—Her Outfit.—And Voyage to the Northwest Coast.</p> -</div> - -<p>I commenced a seafaring life at the early age of thirteen, -and followed it through all its changes, continually -rising in rank, until I reached my twenty-fourth year. -Then, after a series of long voyages to the eastward of -the Cape of Good Hope as chief mate, in the summer of -1804 I returned to my native town, resolved on a short -respite of a few months from a close application of eleven -years. I had enjoyed this leisure but a little while, however, -when my employers, Messrs. Charles, James, and -George D’Wolf, purchased a fine ship,<a id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> called the Juno, of -about two hundred and fifty tons burden, and projected a -voyage to the Northwest Coast of America to collect furs -for the China market. They proposed that I should take -the command. I had no expectation of such an offer, since -I thought myself too young and inexperienced to enter upon -an entirely new branch of trade, and entertained some misgivings -of my qualifications for such an enterprise. At the -same time I could not so far doubt my abilities as to neglect -so advantageous an opportunity, and I therefore accepted -the trust.</p> - -<p>Having engaged in the undertaking, we lost no time in -making the necessary arrangements, in procuring a cargo -suitable for traffic, and in preparing the vessel for the voyage. -When ready for sea, the Juno and her lading were -valued at $35,000. The Juno at that day was considered -a crack ship, and her outfit embraced all that was needed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span> -for both comfort and convenience. She mounted eight carriage -guns, and was otherwise armed in proportion, and -when hauled into the stream presented quite a formidable -and warlike appearance. Such an equipment was essential -in her time for the dangerous business for which she was -destined. The crew also would now be considered too large -for a craft of the same tonnage,—for it numbered twenty-six -men and boys, viz: Samuel G. Newell, First Mate; -John A. Thomas, Second Mate; James Moorfield, Clerk; -Richard Cammett, Joseph Hooper, Armorers; Thomas -Hunt, Boatswain; John Jones, Carpenter; D. Bucklin, E. -Bucklin, W. H. Tripp, D. Tatton, J. Stokes, J. Wheeler, -W. Foy, J. Marshall, J. D. Cook, W. Phipps, J. Wheesner, -J. Powers, S. Patterson, Seamen; J. Hanson, Cook; E. D. -Parker, Musician; R. Hitchcock, Tailor; T. Murphy, J. -Mahoney, boys. Thus manned and equipped, we took leave -of our friends, weighed anchor, and put to sea on the 13th -of August, 1804.</p> - -<p>Having now fairly embarked again on the ocean, which -had become a home to me, I began immediately to attend -to those duties which its dangers imposed. Our anchors -and cables were soon stowed away, the crew divided, the -watch set, and everything prepared for all winds and -weathers. We sailed in a southeasterly direction, with -light breezes, and for a number of days nothing varied the -monotony which the sea wears to those who have been long -accustomed to it. On the 20th of September we saw at -a distance St. Antonio, one of the Cape de Verde Islands. -We then bent our course to the south, and were favored -with fine leading winds until we reached that region of the -ocean between the northeast and southeast trade-winds, -which is doomed to perpetual squalls and calms, thunder,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span> -lightning, and rain. This vexatious weather was the source -of one advantage, however. It afforded an opportunity -for filling our water-casks, which was essential in the long -voyage and moderate progress we were making.</p> - -<p>On the 9th of November we crossed the equator in longitude -24° W. Fifty-six days to the line! Well, this certainly -seems to be a long passage in comparison with those -made in more modern times by the straight course pointed -out by Lieut. Maury. Yet the difference is not so very -extraordinary, when we consider the improvements in the -sciences of navigation and naval architecture. Clippers may -pursue a route with impunity which was not so safe or -practicable for the square-built, seven-knot ships of half -a century ago. The straight course was by no means unknown -in those days, and it was sometimes followed; but -with dull sailing vessels it was necessary to be more cautious, -and make their “easting” while in the region of -variable winds. That we crossed the Atlantic, in my time, -thrice, as it is said, in going to the Cape of Good Hope, -I deny. A majority of the passages made by the circuitous -track would compare favorably with those made now by the -same class of ships, notwithstanding the superior knowledge -of winds and currents, and the numerous nautical instruments -of which sea-captains avail themselves. At all events, -navigation is not now carried on with more, if as much -safety as formerly. Inducements are held out, in these go-ahead -days, to make quick passages, regardless of ship and -cargo, and the interests of the underwriters. Too implicit -reliance is placed on instruments and figures at the expense -of that most essential point in navigation, a vigilant lookout, -and to the neglect of the use of the lead.</p> - -<p>October 10th. We fell in with a large Spanish ship from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span> -Havana for Rio Janeiro, ninety days out. Being now several -degrees in south latitude, the weather was serene and -the sea smooth; there was a fine breeze from the southeast. -On the 12th, we spoke a Portuguese ship from Oporto, also -bound to Rio Janeiro. She had a large number of passengers -on board, many of whom were sick, as they were destitute -of all kinds of vegetables. I supplied them with -potatoes and onions, for which they were very grateful, -and presented in return a quantity of Port wine. A continuance -of the pleasant weather enabled us to make various -repairs in the rigging, which had been drenched and buffeted -by incessant tempests to the north of the line. The change -seemed to put new life and animation into the whole crew. -All hands were actively employed with a good will in their -various departments,—the armorers at the forge, the carpenter -fitting the boats for service on the coast, the sail-makers -upon the sails. Thus the vessel was put in fine -condition for meeting the rough gales of Cape Horn. These -we began to encounter in lat. 40° S.</p> - -<p>November 12th, lat. 48° S., long. 51° W., we fell in with -the ship Mary, of Boston, Capt. Trescott, bound to the -Northwest Coast of America, and I agreed to keep company -with him until we had doubled the Cape. This arrangement -could be no impediment to our progress, as our -vessels were nearly equal sailors.—November 15th, we saw -the Falkland Islands bearing from southeast to southwest, -fifteen miles distant. From our longitude we judged ourselves -to be nearer the western extremity, but the wind -inclining westward compelled us to pass to the eastward -of them.—November 19th, the wind from the westward -increased to a gale, with a heavy swell, which brought both -ships under short sail. At eight, P. M., the Mary bore upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span> -our weather quarter, about two miles distant. At ten, the -wind continuing the same, I left the deck, charging the -officer of the watch to be careful that we did not approach -each other too near. At daylight it was perceived that she -had approached us considerably, though she still held a -position on the weather quarter at a sufficient distance to -be out of danger. But through inattention of the officer -on board the Mary to the steering, she was brought under -our lee within hail; of this I was not informed by the mate -in command on the deck. The Juno was making but slow -progress through the water, being under short sail, with -a heavy sea running, and obliged to keep close to the wind -in order to avoid a collision. In this way, the ship’s headway -would be so checked that she would fall off two or -three points, regardless of the helm. While thus situated, -the Mary was in the act of coming to, and the Juno falling -off, when, before either ship had gained sufficient headway -to be under quick command of the helm, our whole broadsides -came into contact with a crash that made every timber -quake. I immediately rushed on deck, and beheld with -amazement our perilous situation. In which, spite of all -our efforts to get clear, we remained nearly fifteen minutes, -cutting and tearing our bulwarks, channels, and plank-sheer, -and making sad work with our rigging. Finally we -separated, and without apparently sustaining any injury -below our plank-sheer.</p> - -<p>This may be an uninteresting matter for record to many, -but it is one of those casualties which not infrequently occur -from a reckless neglect, or a want of ordinary judgment, -and yet where no one is willing to acknowledge himself -at fault. They show that caution is to be regarded as a -cardinal point of practical navigation. I am bold to say,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span> -that, if I had been apprised of our proximity, the collision -would never have taken place.</p> - -<p>When endeavoring to extricate the two ships, Mr. Stetson, -first mate of the Mary, while on a poise upon her -railing, to save himself from falling overboard, made a -leap for the Juno, and landed on her deck. In the course -of the day the weather became more moderate, and we put -him aboard his own ship and continued our course without -attempting to keep company with her. We were favored -with mild weather until the 24th, which brought us into -lat. 56° S. Here commenced a series of very severe gales -from the westward, which continued with unabated violence -for ten days. On the 5th of December the wind veered -to the southward, which enabled us to make some progress, -so that on the 10th I judged myself fairly to the north and -west of the Cape, and a fine southwest wind was carrying -us fast from it. On the 13th, as luck would have it, we -fell in again with our old consort, the Mary, and sailed -along with her until the 29th. Being then in lat. 44° S. -and long. 85° W., I deemed it expedient to hold a consultation -with my officers on the propriety of touching upon -the coast of Chili, in preference to the Sandwich Islands, -which was our previous intention. This was thought advisable -on account of the damage sustained during our -boisterous passage of one hundred and thirty-eight days. -The copper on the ship’s bottom, which had been worn as -thin as paper during a previous long voyage of three years, -had now become full of holes, and was torn off in many -places by whole sheets. This and other injuries which -could not be repaired at sea, in addition to the fact that all -our fuel was consumed except that stowed under the cargo, -and on this account we had for some time been obliged to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span> -dispense with cooking oftener than once a week, induced -us to part company again with the Mary, and shape our -course for Concepcion. I was well aware of the natural -and deep-rooted jealousy of the Spaniards; but while I -apprehended trouble on this score, I was determined to find -admittance to some port, after having relinquished my -original scheme of visiting the Sandwich Islands.</p> - -<p>On the 1st of January, 1805, at 2 P. M., we saw land -bearing from southeast to northeast, fifteen miles distant, -and shortly after the island of St. Maria. At the same -time we saw a ship standing out from the shore, which we -spoke. She was a whaler from New Bedford. The wind -was blowing so hard that we could learn nothing further. -At sunset it had died away, and left us still four or five -miles off Concepcion. As it was not practicable to make -the harbor in the night-time, we tacked ship and stood out -from the coast, with a view to holding our situation to the -windward until morning, and at midnight we tacked and -stood in again. At daybreak, however, we found the current -had set us a considerable distance north of our port. -I accordingly resolved to make sail for Valparaiso; since -that was the principal port in Chili, we had reason to anticipate -a better reception than at any place of less note, -where our presence might have excited unjust suspicions -of unlawful trade. Our sole object was to repair our vessel -and obtain supplies for our voyage, and these by the laws -of humanity they could not in justice refuse us.</p> - -<p>The weather continued remarkably serene and pleasant, -with light breezes and frequent calms; and as we coasted -along within eight or ten miles of the shore, we had a most -splendid view of the Andes, towering far above the clouds. -On the morning of the 8th, we entered the bay of Valparaiso.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span> -Before we reached a safe anchorage, we were -visited by an officer from the Governor, who requested to -know who we were, whence we came, and the object of -our visit,—all of which I explained to his apparent satisfaction. -The boat then returned to the shore with a message -to the Governor, while the officer remained on board, -saying that he could not suffer us to anchor until he received -orders. But before the boat returned, the ship had -reached the anchorage ground, and we came to immediately, -notwithstanding his remonstrances. The boat brought a -peremptory command to leave the bay; but this was out of -the question, and so I as peremptorily refused. I was -summoned before the Governor to present my papers for -examination, and account for my conduct. After examining -my invoices and other documents, and listening to a -candid explanation of the reasons which induced me to -come into port, he was convinced that my destination was -the Northwest Coast. I was accordingly permitted to remain -until I received further orders from the Governor-General, -at St. Jago, to whom a messenger was despatched. -In the mean time I was allowed to take on board as much -wood and water, and fresh provisions, as I chose. The -harbor was too rough and exposed, to make the repairs we -needed, and therefore we weighed anchor and sailed for -Coquimbo, where we arrived on the 20th, and dropped -anchor in six fathoms of water, on the west side of the -bay, about eight miles from the town. Here we remained -until the 28th, when, having completed our repairs as far -as practicable, we put to sea with a fine breeze from the -south.</p> - -<p>When we reached 4° S. lat., we had series of calms, with -pleasant weather, and a very smooth sea. In this neighborhood<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span> -we saw great numbers of green turtle, and by capturing -several we added a delicacy to our larder. February -20th, between 9 and 11 A. M., I obtained several distances -of the sun and moon, the mean of which made the long. -108° W.; at meridian, I found we had crossed the equator -into north latitude. The wind continued very light and -variable until the 4th of March, when it inclined to the -northeast. On the 16th, we crossed the Tropic of Cancer. -At this point the winds again became variable and squally. -On the 7th of April, we had strong gales and threatening -sky, with rain at intervals. At 8 P. M. of that date I put -the ship under short sail, and hauled upon the wind to the -northward, deeming it imprudent to continue on our course -through the night, because, by my calculations, we were -in the vicinity of land. In the morning the weather moderated, -and at 5 A. M. we saw land bearing from north-northeast -to east, which proved to be the northern part of -Vancouver’s Island. At 2 P. M. we saw Scott’s Island -bearing north-northwest, sixteen miles distant. At nightfall -the clouds wore an ugly look; so we hauled by the wind -to the westward, under short sail. At midnight we had a -heavy blow, but it died away by light, and we saw Scott’s -Island again; at 9 A. M. it bore south, five miles. The -wind beginning again to rise, I determined if possible to -make a harbor before night. With this intention I shaped -my course for Newettee.</p> - -<p>Newettee was a small inlet in the northwestern promontory -of Vancouver’s Island, and sheltered from the sea by -a long island running nearly east and west. Between the -two was a strait, through which we must enter to gain -our port. As we drew near the entrance, the wind became -very light, and at sunset we were still three miles from it.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span> -Being myself entirely unacquainted with the coast, I was -inclined to lay off until morning; but my officers were all -more or less familiar with it, and so positive of their knowledge -that I concluded to proceed. At eight in the evening -we crossed the bar at the mouth of the strait, and entered. -The wind had fallen now to a dead calm, and left us exposed -to a very strong current, which carried us toward -an inlet in the island to the north of us; and at the same -time it was evident that we were approaching the shore -very fast. Nothing could surpass the terrific appearance -of the scenery; perpendicular cliffs towered from the water’s -edge to a lofty height, against which the sea beat with great -violence. The ship getting no steerage-way from her sails, -and being in fact entirely unmanageable, we hoisted out -our boats to tow. The long-boat, which was of the most -consequence, sunk alongside; the yawl and the whaleboat -were both got ahead, but were so light that they had very -little effect on the vessel. We were now within three rods -of a high projecting point, and the soundings showed forty-five -fathoms of water. We let go the kedge-anchor to -keep the bow off, and it had the desired effect. By great -exertions in the boats, assisted in the ship by the application -of all the oars we had, we barely succeeded in keeping clear -of the rocks, which could now be reached with an oar. As -the tide swept us along, we were threatened with destruction -by every sea which dashed against them. At length, -by the aid of a light air which sprung up, we got out of -the irregular current near the shore, and, slipping our cable -and leaving our anchor, moved towards the harbor on the -south side of the straits. When about two thirds of the -way across, I despatched a boat with an officer to find the -entrance. The boat not returning in due time, I discharged<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span> -a musket as a signal. It was answered from a vessel lying -within, and shortly after one of the officers came aboard -her, and informed us that it was the ship Pearl of Boston, -Capt. Ebbets.<a id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> He very politely offered to pilot us in, and -by his assistance we were soon brought safely to anchor -in fifteen fathoms of water. This was the 10th of April, -1805.</p> - - -<hr class="r20" /> - -<h4>II.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Newettee and the Natives.—Kygarney.—Norfolk Sound.—Sell Part -of my Cargo to the Russians.—Governor Baranoff.—Chatham -Straits.—Newettee again.—Return to Chatham Straits.—Trade -with the Indians.—On the Rocks.—Sail to Norfolk Sound for -Repairs.—Arrival of Resanoff and Party.—The Juno sold to the -Russians.—Departure of my Crew for Canton.</p> -</div> - -<p>At last I was at anchor on the Northwest Coast. Newettee -was one of the southernmost harbors frequented by -American fur-traders, being in lat. 51° N., and long. 128° -W. It was nothing more than a nook, as I said before, -in the northern end of Vancouver’s Island. We found it -tolerably well sheltered from all winds except those from -the north and northeast; on this quarter it was exposed to -a reach of about three miles. As the prevalent wind during<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span> -our stay of ten days was from the south and southwest, we -lay in perfect safety, notwithstanding it was one continued -gale, accompanied with hail and rain. Everything around -us, the sea, the sky, and the precipitous shore, covered with -a forest of heavy timber, wore a most gloomy aspect. The -Indians had no permanent residence here, but made it -merely a place of resort for traffic on the arrival of ships. -For this purpose it was considered at certain seasons one -of the best harbors on the coast, as there are many large -villages in its vicinity. We were visited daily by a great -number of the Indians, who generally brought with them -a few sea-otter skins, but not enough to make trade brisk. -They were exceedingly sharp in all their intercourse with -us, being great beggars, withal. It seemed impossible to -satisfy them for their skins, and they were ready to grasp -at everything they saw. They were a very stout and robust -people, and in some things not destitute of skill. Their -boats were hewn from a single log, and varied in size from -sixteen feet in length and three in breadth, to thirty-five in -length and six in breadth. Their paddles were made and -ornamented with a great deal of neatness.</p> - -<p>Deriving but little benefit from our traffic, we employed -ourselves in putting the ship in good order for beating about -the coast. By the 20th we had completed our work, and -weighed anchor, and put to sea in company with the Pearl, -directing our course to the northward of Kygarney, a harbor -in lat. 54°30′ N., which, from its central situation, is -considered the best place of resort for ships on their first -arrival, to obtain information for establishing a rate of -trade. For several days we sailed in a thick fog, which, -lifting at intervals, showed us different points of Queen -Charlotte’s Island. We gained our port on the 27th, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span> -found there the ships Vancouver, Captain Brown, and Caroline, -Captain Sturgis, both of Boston; the latter, having -obtained her cargo, about to leave the coast for Canton.</p> - -<p>During our stay here we got in a new mizzen-mast in -place of the old one, which was sprung, and furnished our -vessel with such other spars as we thought we should need. -We were daily visited by the Indians, who generally brought -a few skins; but they were so extravagant in their demands -for them that it was impossible to trade. We frequently -had thirty or forty lying about the decks the whole day -long, endeavoring to extort unreasonable prices for their -furs, at the same time affecting the utmost indifference -whether they sold them or not. Occasionally they were -quite insulting; but policy induced us to put up with insults, -in hopes of driving a bargain.</p> - -<p>The numerous inlets in the vicinity abounded with salmon, -and every other variety of fish, and wild game was -very plenty. But on the whole the harbor was poor and -unsafe. The land here, as at Newettee, was exceedingly -elevated, rising abruptly from the shore, and covered with -heavy timber, chiefly of the fir kind. The water is very -deep, which compelled a vessel to anchor so near the land -as to be exposed to any hostile demonstration on the part -of the savages.<a id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> Attacks were not rare when only one ship -was in port. From long intercourse with American traders, -the natives had become extremely expert in the use of the -musket, in the choice of which they showed great judgment -and sagacity, and invariably selected a king’s arm in preference -to the most finished fowling-piece. On account of the -many instances of bloodshed by them, they were not allowed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span> -to come on board armed, but it was necessary to show them -every indulgence within the bounds of prudence.</p> - -<p>Not being likely to receive much benefit from a longer -stay here, I resolved to proceed at once to the settlement of -the Russians on Norfolk Sound, since a great part of my -cargo consisted of articles adapted to their use. We had -rum, tobacco, molasses, sugar, rice, wooden ware, duffels,<a id="FNanchor_27" href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> -&c., which the Indians will take only as presents, as well -as those commodities intended for trade with them, viz. -blankets, muskets, powder, and balls.</p> - -<p>On the 7th of May we put to sea, with pleasant weather -and a moderate breeze from the west, and directed our -course to the northward. On the 8th, the wind increased -to a gale, and veered to the south, which brought thick fog -and rain. On the 9th it became clear, and we obtained a -good view of the land, and discovered that we were near -the entrance of the sound, about mid-channel, with Mount -Edgecombe bearing northwest, ten miles distant. We stood -in under a press of sail, and at about eleven came to anchor -in Magee’s Harbor, as it was called, on the west side of -the sound. We found erected on the shore a guide-post, -pointing out the direction of the village, and the date of -its establishment. We were soon visited by several baidarkas<a id="FNanchor_28" href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> -with Kodiak Indians, from whom we endeavored -to obtain information. The only word they used, which -we could understand, was Baranoff, which we knew to be -the name of the governor or superintendent of the settlement.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span> -As soon as the news of our arrival in the sound -reached there, a pilot was despatched to our assistance, and, -the wind being favorable, he brought us round to the village, -and we anchored on the 10th of May abreast of the fort.</p> - -<p>Mr. Abraham Jones, an American in the Russian service, -immediately came on board, with the Governor’s compliments, -and kind offers of protection, and any aid we might -need which it was in his power to give. Accompanied by -Mr. Moorfield, I accepted an invitation to go on shore and -have an interview with him. Mr. Jones officiated as interpreter. -I was introduced by him to his Excellency, and -received with every mark of friendship and hospitality. -After exchanging the usual compliments, we were ushered -into an apartment where we found a table spread with all -the luxuries the place afforded. While we regaled ourselves -with the sumptuous fare, the conversation turned -to the subject of my cargo. The Governor appeared willing -and desirous to exchange furs on fair terms for such articles -as they needed. We returned on board in the evening, well -pleased with our reception, I might say agreeably disappointed, -as I had been led to believe from various reports -that we should find the Russians little advanced from the -savage state.</p> - -<p>As the success of my voyage depended on the utmost -possible despatch, no time was lost in establishing a rate -of exchange with our new friends; which being adjusted -to our mutual advantage, I was enabled to disencumber the -vessel of a large portion of the bulkiest part of my cargo,—such -as has been mentioned on a preceding page.</p> - -<p>From the kind treatment received from the Governor, -I was induced to form a very favorable opinion of him. -He was sixty-five years of age, and had spent the last<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span> -eighteen years of his life at different stations on the coast, -in the capacity of agent and officer of the Russian American -Company,—excluded, as it were, from all civilized -society, except that of a few of his fellow-adventurers. He -possessed a strong mind, easy manners and deportment, -and was apparently well fitted for the place he filled. He -commanded the greatest respect from the Indians, who regarded -him with mingled feelings of love and fear.</p> - -<p>Owing to frequent storms of rain, which unavoidably -retarded the progress of our business, my stay at this place -was prolonged until the 27th of May. With pleasant -weather and a moderate breeze we then weighed anchor, -and sailed from Norfolk Sound. We proceeded up Chatham -Straits as high as Lynn Canal, in lat. 59° N., thence southward -to Newettee in lat. 51° N., touching at as many of -the intermediate harbors as we found it practicable, and -making some trade. We arrived at Newettee on the 28th -of June, at the same time with the brig Lydia and the ships -Vancouver and Athawalpa. The latter had been attacked -by the Indians, who killed Capt. Porter and all the officers, -and wounded many of the sailors. She had fallen in with -the other ship and brig, belonging to the same owners, and -had proceeded to this place for assistance. Here we found -the Pearl and the Mary.</p> - -<p>I shall not attempt a detail of the occurrences, or give -a description of the harbors and inlets we visited in our -voyage from Norfolk Sound. While here we rendered all -the assistance in our power in manning and equipping the -Athawalpa for Canton, and then, on the 11th of July, again -left Newettee and sailed northward for Chatham Straits. -Touching at a number of places on our passage, on the 27th -we entered the mouth of the straits, and proceeded up as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span> -far as Point Retreat in lat. 58° N. Here the Indians were -very numerous, and appeared to have a great number of -skins for sale, but declined trading, unless we brought the -ship to anchor, which was unnecessary, as the wind was -light and the sea smooth. There was nothing to interrupt -a traffic if they really felt willing to open one; but, in order -to comply with their wishes as far as possible, I made -several attempts to get an anchorage, and was only prevented -by the depth of the water. Still the Indians kept -round us in great numbers, there being at least thirty or -forty canoes of them. At the same time we perceived that -they were all armed, and this, with their obstinacy, gave -us strong suspicions that they were bent on mischief more -than commerce. As it was nearly sunset, and there was -no prospect of bringing them to terms, I concluded to make -the best of my way down the straits. The wind was light, -and the tide against us. The Indians, seeing plainly that -we could make but little progress in the course of the night, -went on shore, and returned at daylight. They came with -the apparent determination to board us; but in their absence -we had made ample preparations to meet in a hostile as -well as a friendly manner. Seeing the impossibility of obtaining -access to the ship by force, they changed their -tactics, and were inclined to trade with us in a peaceable -way. We therefore admitted one of the chiefs at the gangway, -and through him commenced a brisk traffic, which -continued until we had bought their whole stock of furs. -They then left us to continue our course down the straits -without molestation.</p> - -<p>On the 5th of August we came to anchor in an extensive -harbor, situated near the entrance of Chatham Straits, between -Points Sullivan and Ellis. Here we were detained<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span> -several days by calms and light westerly winds, which blew -directly into the harbor, while the entrance was so narrow -that we found it impossible to beat out. On the 10th we -got under weigh, with the boats ahead to tow; but the ebb -tide began to run very strong, and drift the ship towards -a small island lying midway in the channel. Notwithstanding -our utmost efforts to avoid it by the use of oars -and letting go an anchor, in the darkness which had come -on we had approached nearer the shore than we supposed, -and finally the keel struck upon the rocks. The stream -anchor was carried out with all possible despatch in order -to heave the vessel off, but in vain. The falling tide had -left her too fast. The only alternative left was to secure -her in the best manner possible before she began to keel -over, and to prepare ourselves for defence in case of an -attack from the savages. Having furled all the sails, sent -down the top-gallant yards and masts, and lashed our heavy -guns amidship, we equipped our three boats with arms, -ammunition, and provision, lest the ship should bilge, which -we had great reason to apprehend, as we had still on board -about two thirds of our cargo. But as the tide left her -we found that she did not lie so much on her beam-ends -as we had anticipated, but was supported by three sharp -rocks, one about midships, and the other two abreast the -fore and mizzen chains; her keel had also taken the rocks -in several places.</p> - -<p>At sunrise the Indians began to assemble about us. At -first they kept aloof, and seemed to entertain some suspicions -as to our movements; but after going round the ship and -examining her situation very carefully, we prevailed upon -some of them to come alongside. We gave them to understand -that we had hauled on shore to mend the copper;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span> -and to convince them, I employed a gang of hands under -the ship’s bottom for that purpose. At 9 A. M. we had -low water, and as the perpendicular rise and fall of the -tide was about fifteen feet, we could now walk all round -the vessel, and under the keel in some places. In the mean -time some of the officers were employed in trading with -the Indians for their furs; and to make ourselves secure -in case they had any hostile intentions, we succeeded in -enticing one of the chiefs on board, whom we detained as -a hostage. Thus relieved in a measure from any apprehension -of an attack from the natives, and having done -everything in our power to ease the ship, we lost no time -in caulking and stopping in the best possible manner such -places as had been strained open by her ponderous weight -upon the rocks. The two seams below the plank-sheer were -nearly an inch wide, as likewise every butt from the fore to -the mizzen-mast. To clear the bilge of the ship we rigged -one of our pumps in the main hatchway, and drew out a -considerable quantity of molasses and water. After some -brisk work, we had the satisfaction of finding that the -vessel righted with the flowing tide, and at high water, to -our great joy, she floated. When we hauled into the stream -again, we were happy to find that she did not leak so badly -as we had reason to anticipate. The only perceptible injury -was on the side which laid on the rocks, and that was bent -or hogged up, as the phrase is, about half a foot. We now -liberated our hostage, after making him a very liberal present -for his detention.</p> - -<p>While we were aground, we had a favorable opportunity -to examine the copper on the ship’s bottom, which proved -to be in a very shattered condition; and as we had reason -to apprehend more damage than was visible, I deemed it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span> -advisable to proceed at once to the Russian settlement at -Norfolk Sound, where, under protection from the Indians, -we might discharge our cargo, and make repairs in peace. -Accordingly, on the 12th of August we put to sea, and -made the best of our way for that place. On our route -we fell in again with the Mary, and, in company with her, -arrived on the 14th, and anchored abreast the village. I -was again received by Governor Baranoff with that kind -and obliging hospitality which made him loved and respected -by every visitor.</p> - -<p>No time was lost in preparing to lay the Juno on shore, -in order to ascertain the extent of the damage. In this -I was greatly facilitated by the Governor, who allowed me -to occupy an old hulk, into which I shifted my cargo, with -the exception of the furs. We had collected about a thousand -sea-otter skins, and these I sent to Canton by the -Mary, which sailed on the 20th. Notwithstanding our -utmost exertions, our preparations were not completed -until the 1st of September, and then, to my great surprise -and regret, I found twenty of the floor timbers broken, and -the copper in a very ragged condition. I was, however, -gratified to find the planks all sound and good except in -one place, where the carpenter cut out a large fragment -of the rock, which had penetrated the bottom, and adhered -so closely as to prevent the admission of water. By the -6th of September we had completed such repairs as were -practicable and hauled into the stream, knowing no other -alternative than to make the best of our crippled ship, and -endeavor to prosecute the remainder of our voyage with -more caution.</p> - -<p>Having again adjusted the rigging, replenished our -stores of wood and water, and put everything in the best<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> -possible trim for sea, I submitted to Governor Baranoff a -project of an expedition to the southern coast of New Albion -and California, which he readily accepted. My idea -was to take on board fifty or sixty Kodiak Indians, with -their canoes, for the purpose of catching sea-otter, those -animals being very numerous on that coast. Everything in -this new plan being agreed upon and settled, we were to -wait until the 1st of October for the Indians, who were -out on a hunting expedition, under the protection of two -small vessels, and expected to return by the last of the -month.</p> - -<p>While we were waiting, the Russian brig Maria arrived -at the settlement. She was under the command of Andrew -W. Maschin, a lieutenant in the navy, and had on board -as passenger Nicholas Resanoff, a nobleman, who, after -an unsuccessful embassy to Japan, returned to Kamtchatka -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">en route</i> to the posts on the Northwest Coast belonging to -the Russian American Company, in which he was himself -a large proprietor. With him came also two other lieutenants -in the Russian navy, Nicholas Schwostoff and John -Davidoff, Doctor Geo. Langsdorff, and two ship-carpenters, -Messrs. Korükin and Popoff, who were to build a ship at -this place. To all these new-comers I was formally introduced -by my friend the Governor, and received the assurances -of his Excellency, Baron von Resanoff, that he would -facilitate, in every way in his power, the execution of my -California scheme. Several days after this arrival were -passed in festivity and mirth, and business was entirely -suspended. The appearance of so distinguished a personage, -whose authority was for a time to supersede even that -of the Governor, was an event of great moment.</p> - -<p>In conversation with Dr. Langsdorff on the inconvenience<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span> -of building and equipping a large vessel where the necessary -materials were so difficult to procure, I observed to -him, jocosely, that I would sell them my ship, which would -obviate the necessity of building. The conversation being -communicated to his Excellency, he wished to know whether -I would really sell my ship, and if so, what would be the -price. This was a subject on which I had not reflected, -and which required some deliberation on several accounts. -Having about two thirds of my cargo on board, it was -necessary to ascertain of what it consisted to estimate its -value, being well aware that I could not dispose of my -vessel by itself alone. How my officers and crew were to -leave the coast was another serious difficulty. But while -I was deliberating on the expediency of the measure, the -two small vessels, the Yermerk and Russisloff, which I -mentioned above, returned from the hunting expedition. -The former, a craft of forty tons, appeared to be suitable -for my purpose, and I therefore availed myself of the opportunity, -and offered my ship, and the remainder of my -cargo, for the sum of $68,000, payable in the following -manner, viz.: bills of exchange on the Directors of the Russian -American Company at St. Petersburg for the sum of -$54,638; 572 sea-otter skins for the sum of $13,062; and -$300 in cash; together with the fore-named vessel, the -Yermerk, completely rigged, two suits of sails, four carriage -guns, thirty muskets, with ammunition for the same, -and provisions for my crew for one hundred days. This -offer was accepted, and the Juno passed into the hands of -the Russian American Company. On the 5th of October, -I delivered her up, under a salute from the fort and the -ship, when I hoisted the stars and stripes on the Yermerk, -which had become my property.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span></p> - -<p>Having consummated our bargain by delivering up our -ship, and taking possession of our little craft, we set to -work immediately to put her into a condition to transport -ourselves and the sea-otter skins to Canton. This work -was completed by the 15th; and while we were waiting for -favorable weather to put to sea, his Excellency suggested -to me the advisability of despatching the Yermerk for -Canton, and remaining myself at the settlement until spring, -and then embarking with himself and suite for Ochotsk, -and proceeding to St. Petersburg by land. The kind and -courteous manner in which this proposition was made to -me was too flattering to be received with indifference. After -duly considering the subject, having in view the probable -advantage of presenting my bills of exchange in person -the next winter, in accordance with the advice of my -friends, I concluded to avail myself of his Excellency’s -generous offer. I therefore gave the command of the Yermerk -to my first officer, Mr. George W. Stetson, and the -superintendence of the business to Mr. James Moorfield. -Storms and adverse winds prevented them from sailing -until the 27th, when, with a favorable breeze, they took -their departure from Norfolk Sound, with our most fervent -prayers for their welfare and safe arrival at Canton.</p> - -<p>After taking a long parting look at the little vessel fading -in the horizon, I returned to the village, full of melancholy -forebodings of a tedious and dreary winter in that rude -and inhospitable region. But it was of no use to repine; -the business was settled, and I concluded I would take -things as they came, and make the best of them. I had -retained in my service, as valet, Edward D. Parker, one -of my ordinary sailors, but a very useful man of all work. -A barber by trade, he was also a tolerably good tailor, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span> -performer on the violin and clarinet. This latter accomplishment -I thought might be useful in dispelling the blues, -if we should at any time be troubled with that complaint. -An apartment was assigned me by the Governor, adjoining -the room of Dr. Langsdorff, to which I removed my goods -and chattels. I had a sleeping bunk fitted up in one corner, -and made everything as comfortable as possible for a long -siege. Having thus taken up my residence among the -Russians, I will pause to make some explanations connected -with my narrative.</p> - - -<hr class="r20" /> - -<h4>III.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Nicholas Resanoff and the Japan Expedition.—The History of the -Russian Settlement at Norfolk Sound and the Founding of New -Archangel.—The Chinese Project.—Dr. Langsdorff and other New -Friends.—Visit to the Indians driven by the Russians from Archangel.</p> -</div> - -<p>In September, 1803, an expedition sailed from Cronstadt, -Russia, for the Pacific Ocean, consisting of the two -ships Nadeschda and Neva, the former commanded by Capt. -Krusenstern, and the latter by Capt. Lisiansky, both experienced -officers of the Imperial navy. This was the first -adventure the Russians ever attempted in the Southern -Ocean, and was prompted by the extension of the trade of -the Russian American Fur Company. It had the double -purpose of supplying the settlements on the Northwest -Coast, and negotiating a commercial treaty with Japan, -which, being near the settlements, would be a convenient -place to obtain provisions and dispose of commodities. Encouragement -had been given by a letter received many years -previous from the Japanese, granting permission to come to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span> -the port of Nangasaki; on the strength of this letter, and -in view of the advantages and facilities for intercourse, -it was thought expedient by the Imperial government to -send an embassy to this strange people. Accordingly, Nicholas -Resanoff, a nobleman and Chamberlain to his Majesty, -the Emperor of all the Russias, was appointed, and embarked -in the Nadeschda, with powers plenipotentiary to -negotiate with the Court of Jedo. This part of the undertaking, -as is well known, proved a failure. After remaining -at Nangasaki six months, subject a part of the time to -a partial imprisonment, and throughout to absurd formalities -and ridiculous vexations, he despaired of bringing -about a favorable result, and was compelled to depart for -Kamtchatka, without even obtaining an interview with the -Emperor, and, in fact, accomplishing nothing.</p> - -<p>Baron von Resanoff was a person of rank and distinction, -possessed of many amiable qualities, and highly esteemed -by the Emperor Alexander. He was kind and affable to all -around him, and always ready to hear complaints, and afford -every redress in his power for grievances. He married -the daughter of the famous Schelikoff, who was the pioneer -in the Russian discoveries and settlements on the Northwest -Coast. This circumstance caused him to be largely interested -in the Fur Company. His mission to Japan having -terminated unfavorably, his intention then was to visit and -inspect all the stations of the Company on the coast. He -left the Nadeschda therefore at Kamtchatka, and embarked -on board the brig Maria. After touching at various Russian -establishments, he finally arrived at Norfolk Sound. -The Neva, Captain Lisiansky, pursued its course directly -to the island of Kodiak, and thence to Norfolk Sound, -where it arrived August 20, 1804, and joined, by previous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span> -agreement, a small squadron of three vessels under the -command of Governor Baranoff.</p> - -<p>The Russians had formerly a settlement on the Sound, -situated several miles from their present location, called -Archangel, which was destroyed by the Indians, and all the -inhabitants massacred. The Indians then established themselves -on the spot, and erected strong fortifications. The -object of assembling the vessels was to chastise and expel -them, and this was accomplished after a siege of four days. -The Russians then selected an elevated and commanding -situation in the immediate vicinity. It was a singular round -piece of land with a flat top, standing out in the sea, and -bearing the appearance of a work of human hands. The -only connection with the shore was by a narrow isthmus. -Here they put up several buildings, mounted a considerable -battery of heavy guns, and gave the place the name of New -Archangel.</p> - -<p>The Neva then returned to Kodiak, where she wintered, -and in the fall of 1805 proceeded to Canton and rejoined -the Nadeschda, which had previously sailed thither. The -aim in this movement was to accomplish a third project -of the Russian American Company, which, like the Japan -scheme, was unsuccessful. They desired to obtain permission -from the Chinese government to continue their -intercourse with the port of Canton, and so enable their -ships to return by sea from the settlements to Russia, with -the proceeds of their furs. But the Chinese objected, and -insisted on their confining themselves to their inland traffic -at the north. Thus commerce for the future with Canton -was interdicted. I relate these events because they took -place but a short time previous to my sojourn at Norfolk -Sound, and account for the presence there of several persons -of distinction.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span></p> - -<p>George von Langsdorff,<a id="FNanchor_29" href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> a native of Frankfort, Germany, -was by profession a doctor of medicine and surgery, -and by taste a naturalist. He was a volunteer on the Russian -American expedition, and was in pursuit of science. -On his arrival in Kamtchatka a second time, he was invited -by Baron von Resanoff to accompany him to the Northwest -Coast of America, as his physician. He was particularly -moved to accept the invitation by the opportunity which -was thus offered for the collection of specimens of natural -history. The Doctor, unlike Baron von Resanoff, spoke -the English language fluently. As I lived under the same -roof with him, we became almost inseparable, participating -both in each others’ pleasures and troubles. Lieutenants<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span> -Schwostoff, Davidoff, and Maschin were highly accomplished -and meritorious officers, as were likewise the two -ship-builders, Messrs. Popoff and Korükin. They all -seemed to vie in attention and kindness to me as their -guest, and by general invitation I dined with these gentlemen -at the Governor’s table.</p> - -<p>The stock of provisions at the settlement had been very -small and of the poorest kind, and the increase of the population -by the arrival of the Ambassador and his suite made -the subject of supplies for the coming winter a matter for -sober consideration; but by the purchase of the Juno they -were relieved from all serious anxiety on that score, as a -great part of her cargo consisted of good wholesome provisions, -such as beef, pork, flour, bread, rice, sugar, molasses, -rum, and tobacco. In fact, the desire to obtain these -stores had great weight in their negotiations with me. -There was still, however, some deficiency in inferior kinds -of food, and a small vessel had been despatched some time -previously to Kodiak. It was so late in the season she did -not return. Now they were not afraid of winter storms, -for they had the Juno to send on the errand. She sailed, -under the command of Lieutenants Schwostoff and Davidoff, -on the 27th of October.</p> - -<p>In the mean while the whole village, comprising a population -of 150 Russians, and perhaps 250 Aleutians, was -actively engaged in preparing to meet the rigors of the -approaching season. They built log-houses, work-shops, -and barracks. My friend Langsdorff was all the time -ranging the woods and the shores with his fowling-piece, -in quest of wild game for specimens, with which, after they -had been skinned <ins class="corr" id="tn-128" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'for science’ sake'"> -for science’s sake</ins>, my man Parker made -stews of various descriptions. Being merely a sojourner<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span> -at the settlement, I occupied myself in watching the labors -of others, getting acquainted with the different characters -and localities of the place, and learning the use and management -of baidarkas.</p> - -<p>By the beginning of November the novelty of our situation -had worn off; the circumscribed range of our wanderings -from the village became monotonous and tiresome, -and, as a number of our associates had departed for Kodiak, -we began to look round for some new object of interest. -The Doctor had frequently expressed a desire to become -more acquainted with the Sitcha Indians, and resolved on -making them a visit at their village, on the opposite side -of the island, if I would accompany him, to which I readily -agreed. As these were the very Indians who had recently -been so roughly handled by the Russians, it was considered -by the Governor and other friends to be a rather perilous -adventure; but we relied a good deal on our not being -Russians, and upon the fact that I had been among them -during the previous summer from a people with whom they -were on friendly terms. Perceiving that we were bent on -going, the Governor gave his consent, and furnished us with -baidarkas, Kodiak Indians, and an Indian woman as an -interpreter. The latter was a daughter of one of the principal -chiefs of the tribe we were to visit. She had lived -with the Russians five or six years, and with her as a -companion we had little fear of any other than a friendly -reception.</p> - -<p>We soon completed the preparations for our departure. -We took guns, pistols, powder, and shot, for shooting as -well as for safety; rice, tea, sugar, biscuit, dried fish, and -brandy, for our food. Beside some kitchen utensils for -dressing these provisions and a small tent to sleep in, we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span> -were provided with several ells of linen and woollen cloth, -glass beads, needles, tobacco, large fishing-hooks, looking-glasses, -and various similar trifles for presents to the Indians. -Langsdorff, the interpreter, and myself each occupied -a baidarka, and had two natives each to row.</p> - -<p>We were three days in reaching the village, but beyond -a few Indians, with whom we encamped at night, we saw -nothing of interest. By nightfall of the third day we had -nearly reached the place of our destination; but owing to -a strong wind and tide, which were directly against us, we -had the mortification of seeing the sun go down before the -whole distance was accomplished. We were now in rather -an unpleasant situation; to return was impossible, and to -land might have excited suspicion, for the fire which was -necessary as a protection from the cold would have betrayed -us. We determined at last to make our way to the settlement, -notwithstanding we should reach it in utter darkness. -Scarcely was this resolution taken, when we were observed -from the land, and hailed in a loud voice, but neither our -interpreter nor our Kodiak oarsmen would reply. This -sorely provoked Langsdorff and myself, and we were on -the point of expressing our anger warmly, when a great -commotion arose on shore. Suddenly, some hundred naked -Indians, armed with muskets, and holding firebrands in -their hands, thronged to the water’s edge. No sooner had -we made known who we were, and approached the shore, -than we were surrounded in a tumultuous manner by the -Kaluschians, who dragged us towards their fortress, seizing -upon our effects at the same time, whether to rob us of -them or to restore them we were then ignorant. I expected -nothing but an immediate and violent death. The scene -certainly was one to inspire terror; the glare of the torches,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span> -the gesticulations of the savages, the brandishing of the -weapons, the rough handling we received, were not calculated -to inspire confidence in men whom from the outset -we had distrusted. But happily our fears were groundless, -and the demonstrations of the natives, as we afterwards -learned, were well intended offices of friendship.</p> - -<p>We were hurried over a rather fatiguing road to the top -of a high rock, on which stood the fortress, and were immediately -introduced into the very spacious habitation of -the chief Dlchaetin, the father of our interpreter. He assigned -us a place directly opposite the entrance, where we -spread a carpet, and, by the light of a very large fire on -a raised hearth in the centre of the room, were subjected -to the gaze of some hundreds of the natives. Shortly after, -to our great astonishment, our packages were brought to -us from our baidarkas, not the smallest trifle being withheld, -although there were undoubtedly many articles among -them which the bearers must have coveted, and under the -cover of the night might have easily concealed. Even my -musket, pistols, and powder-horn, which in my hurry I had -left behind, were delivered to me without the slightest -injury.</p> - -<p>We had scarcely refreshed ourselves with a dish of tea -and a glass of punch, when we were invited by the eldest -and most distinguished of the chiefs, the commandant of -the fortress, to come and visit him. He received us with -much kindness, and presented me with a sea-otter’s skin, -and Dr. Langsdorff with a beautiful sea-otter’s tail. Much -fatigued, and in need of rest, we returned to the habitation -of our host; but we found ourselves in too exciting a scene -to permit of sleep. While eating a very good dish of fish -and rice prepared by him, we were entertained with a lively<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span> -and pleasing melody, sung by a number of men seated -round the fire, which had been piled up to a great height. -Though the night was cold and windy, the savages went -barefoot to the neighboring forest, and brought home large -blocks of wood upon their naked shoulders, and heaped -them on the hearth. It was incomprehensible how the roof, -covered as it was merely with bark, was not entirely consumed. -Once it did take fire; but a boy ran like a mouse -up the side of the wall, and extinguished it. The sparks -flew out of the opening at the top, and the flames roared -as in a blacksmith’s forge; and we could not close our eyes -till their fierceness had in a measure subsided, and the danger -was less imminent, though the fire was very hot through -the whole night.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the next day we carried to the commandant -from whom we had received the presents the -evening before the counter presents due to him. At the -same time, we made the proper tribute of presents to the -parents of our interpreter, the latter having given us to -understand that the sooner it was done, the greater would -be their esteem for us. To her father we gave some ells -of woollen cloth, a large knife, some fish-hooks, and some -pounds of tobacco; to her mother a shift, some needles, -a small looking-glass, some ribbon, and some glass beads. -As soon as we had performed these necessary ceremonies, -we were permitted to walk about wherever we chose, without -the trouble of guides. Dr. Langsdorff even shot some -birds close to the fortress without attracting any attention.</p> - -<p>The natives of the Northwest Coast of America are called -by the Russians Kaluschians, but this people call themselves -Schitchachon, or inhabitants of Sitcha. Expelled from -Norfolk Sound, they had fortified themselves here, upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span> -a rock which rose perpendicularly to the height of several -hundred feet above the water’s edge. The only possible -access to it was on the northwest side, and here it had been -rendered extremely difficult by very large trunks of trees -strewn over it. The rock itself was secured against the -attack of an enemy by a double palisade, measuring from -twelve to fifteen feet in height, and from three to four in -thickness. A natural wall of earth beyond the palisading, -on the side towards the sea, conceals the habitations so effectually, -that they cannot be discerned from a ship.</p> - -<p>The houses within the fortress were placed in regular -rows, and built of thick planks, fastened to posts which -formed the frame-work, and covered at the top with bark. -The entrance was at the gable end, and was often stained -with different colored earths. The interiors of their dwellings -were indescribably filthy, filled with smoke, and perfumed -with decayed fish and train-oil. The men painted -their faces, and, as well as the women, delighted in profuse -ornaments; like other savages, they were particularly pleased -with glittering trinkets, or European garments. The women -on the coast had one very strange fashion, which I think -is peculiar to this part of the world. At the age of fourteen -or fifteen, they make a hole in their under lip and insert a -small piece of wood like a button. This is increased in size -as they advance in age, until it is three or four inches long, -and one or two wide. I saw one old woman, the wife of -a chief, whose lip ornament was so large, that, by a peculiar -motion of her under lip, she could almost conceal her whole -face with it. You will naturally inquire the reason of this -barbarous method of adornment. I might reply by asking -the reason of some equally strange fashions among civilized -nations. But, without casting any reflections on my countrywomen,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span> -I may be allowed to make one observation, which -has probably occurred already to my readers; and that is, -that it is utterly impossible for the fair sex of the Northwest -Coast to enjoy the luxury of a kiss.</p> - -<p>The occupations of the Sitcha Indians, beside hunting -and fishing, appeared to be making canoes, fishing-lines and -hooks, and wooden ware. The women manufacture a kind -of carpet out of the wool of wild sheep, and are very expert -in wicker-work; some of their baskets are so closely woven -as to hold water. Both sexes are expert in the use of firearms, -and are excellent judges of their quality. I could -not find that they had any organized government. Success -in fishing and in the chase constitutes the source of their -wealth, and consequently of their influence. In feuds between -different families the right of the strongest prevails, -and they are only banded together against common enemies.</p> - -<p>Having passed two days at the Indian settlement, we set -out on our return to New Archangel. On our route we -visited the chief Schinchetaez, with whom we had passed -a night on our way to Sitcha. This man had been friendly -to the Russians, and was in consequence an outcast from -his own people. He was glad to see us again, and entertained -us hospitably. We gave him a few presents, which -were thankfully received, and, had he been able, he would -have given in return. While with him we saw some -Kaluschian Indians go into the sea to bathe, when the -thermometer was below freezing. They ran for some distance -over the ice, and then plunged in, and performed all -manner of antics, with the same apparent enjoyment as if -it had been a warm spring.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="in_134f" style="max-width: 50em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/in_134f.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">NEW ARCHANGEL OR SITCHA</div> -</div> - -<p>After taking leave of our host we entered our baidarkas -and resumed our journey; and in due time reached New -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span>Archangel and our friends, without any accident or occurrence -of sufficient interest to record.</p> - - -<hr class="r20" /> - -<h4>IV.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Preparations for Winter.—Winter Amusements.—Resanoff makes -an Expedition to California.—Battle between a Wolf and a Ram.—I -sail for Ochotsk in the Russisloff.</p> -</div> - -<p>Shortly after our return from the excursion narrated -in the last chapter, our friends Schwostoff and Davidoff -arrived from Kodiak with the Juno, and brought a considerable -quantity of dried fish, oil, beans, &c., to increase -our stock of winter provisions. The dried fish was called -ukler, and was prepared by splitting and taking out the -backbone of the fish, and then laying it in the sun. Thus -cured, it was eaten as a substitute for bread. The people -having now a fair allowance of provisions, the operations -at the settlement went on quite encouragingly. In the course -of the month of December the carpenter got the keel of a -new vessel laid, and made good progress in cutting the -timber and sawing the plank. The two brigs, Maria and -Russisloff, were hauled upon the beach and shored up out -of the tide’s way. They furnished very good accommodations -for a large number of the workmen. The Juno remained -riding at anchor in the harbor. Watchmen were -stationed along the shore, in both directions from the fort, -and shouted “All’s well,” from one end to the other, at -intervals throughout the whole night. All were working -cheerfully, and hard enough to kill anybody but Russians. -The Indians made us frequent ceremonial visits, and displayed -their talent for long speeches and for dancing. They<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span> -seemed anxious to bury the hatchet, and renew intercourse -on friendly terms, which was also the wish of the settlers. -In short, everything was in good trim for the winter.</p> - -<p>The fare for the present allowed even to the poor workmen -was tolerable, as a small portion of the cargo of the -Juno was dealt out to them; but the officers had the control -of all the luxuries,—if such they may be called; and these, -together with the game and fish that were continually -brought in, supplied the Governor’s table with an abundance -of good cheer. There were seven of us who regularly dined -at it, and by invitation we frequently had ten.</p> - -<p>By the last of the month the weather began to grow -cooler; yet, though it was December, we had little or no -snow, but much rain and fog. In the forenoon I generally -took a stroll along the shore, with my gun, to the place -where the new vessel was building. One or two of the -officers usually accompanied me; and after reaching the -spot we would turn and walk the same distance, about a -mile and a half, in the opposite direction. Sometimes we -carried home a little game.</p> - -<p>January brought cold, but not severe weather. The workmen -began to flag. The poor fellows had been driven too -hard, regardless of wet and snow. They were now getting -sickly, and it was found necessary to ease off their tasks -a little. The officers, on the other hand, lived comfortably -enough, and even started a new kind of entertainment. The -Russians build their log houses in a very substantial manner, -of heavy timber, and stop the cracks perfectly tight with -moss. Some of them were very large, accommodating after -a fashion fifty or sixty persons. Several such were completed -just at this time, and it occurred to us that they were -well calculated for ball-rooms, and that we could pass away<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span> -the tedious hours of the night in dancing. We made out -bravely in cotillons and contra-dances, but were rather deficient -at first in female partners. Many of the under officers -had their wives with them, and we picked out some -of the Kodiak women, who were accustomed to the Russian -dances, and learned the figures easily. When dressed in -their finery they appeared quite respectably. His Excellency -the Plenipotentiary was always with us on these occasions, -and would upon an emergency take the fiddle, on which he -was quite a good performer. Dr. Langsdorff and my man -Parker took turns at the bow, and with plenty of good resin -for the stomach as well as the bow, we made “a gay season” -of it.</p> - -<p>In February the weather was rather more severe than -the previous months, but by no means so cold as in the -United States, latitude 42°. The harbors and inlets about -the sound were free from ice. With all our attempts to -get up amusements, the time hung heavily upon our hands, -and we did little else than sleep and long for spring. The -Sitcha Indians brought in excellent fresh halibut, which -they exchanged for fish-hooks and old clothes. To me -especially they were very friendly, and came often to my -lodgings, seeming to know that I was not one of the -Russians.</p> - -<p>The waters of the neighborhood abounded with numerous -and choice varieties of the finny tribe, which could be taken -at all seasons of the year. The poor Russians might have -fared better than they did, had they been spared from their -work to catch them. Labor and exposure began to tell on -them. The scurvy had killed a number of them, and many -were sick. Dr. Langsdorff frequently remonstrated in their -behalf, but to little purpose.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span></p> - -<p>There had been much talk of late among the higher officers -upon the expediency of making an expedition to California, -with a view to obtaining a fresh supply of provisions, -and opening, if possible, a traffic with the Spanish Mission -at San Francisco. By the first of March this enterprise was -resolved upon and well matured, and active preparations -were made to put it into immediate execution. His Excellency, -Baron von Resanoff, decided to take charge of it -in person. This arrangement gave me some uneasiness, -lest he should not return in time to fulfil his promise to -proceed with me in May in the Juno to Ochotsk. I explained -to him how great the disappointment and inconvenience -would be, if my departure was delayed until late -in the season. But he silenced my complaints by assuring -me that he had ordered the brig Maria, Captain Maschin, -to be ready to sail for Ochotsk as soon as the season would -permit. With this promise I was constrained to be satisfied. -By the active exertion of Lieutenants Schwostoff and -Davidoff the Juno was quickly put in sailing trim, and -weighed anchor on the 8th of March for San Francisco. -I was invited to accompany them, but declined. Deprived -of my friends and companions, I occupied myself, as best -I could, in making excursions in baidarkas about the shores -and harbors.</p> - -<p>Among the domestic animals of the village—and the -number was very limited, there being two old cows, eight -or ten hogs, and as many dogs—there were two sheep, -a buck and a ewe, which I had presented to the Governor -on my first visit. The ewe in the course of the winter had -been devoured by the wolves or the bears, as it was said; -but I thought it more probable by some of the half-starved -Russians. The buck became quite a pet with the settlers.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span> -Towards spring he began to take advantage of familiar -treatment, and show many positive signs of a pugnacious -disposition, and with very little respect for persons. As -Billy and I were from the same country town, and appeared -to be alone among strangers, I always made it a point, when -I passed him, to salute him with the familiar phrase of -“How are you, Billy?” and he would seem to respond by -a look of recognition. It so happened, however, that one -day, as I was coming from the Governor’s house upon the -hill, after a good substantial dinner, and had reached the -beginning of the descent where stood the sentinel with Billy -at a little distance from him, I gave him the usual greeting, -and began to go down, when, perfectly unconscious of having -offended man or beast, I received a contusion in the -rear, which sent me head-foremost down the declivity with -telegraphic velocity, and with a shock which seemed to disturb -my whole stowage, even to the very ground tier. I got -up as soon as I could collect my scattered senses, and -brushed the dust out of my eyes, when looking up the hill -I saw Billy, the ram, from whom I had received the assault, -making significant demonstrations of another onslaught. I -had scarcely scrambled a little to one side before he came -down again full charge. This time I dodged him, and, not -meeting the check he expected, he went a considerable distance -before he could recover himself. Still unsatisfied with -the result, he was preparing to make another bolt up hill -at me; but now, having the advantage of the ground, I was -ready to receive him. The current was this time against -him, and his headway a good deal impeded. I caught him -by the neck and beat him, and endeavored to turn him off; -but as soon as I let him go, he rushed upon me again. -Finally, finding it impossible to get rid of him, I took a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span> -stone to increase the solidity of my fist, with which I was -obliged to pound the creature till the blood ran freely. -There was still no yield in him. The sentinel, who had till -how been looking on,—to see fair play, I suppose,—seeing -that I should probably kill him, left his post and came -to the rescue. Thus ended the farcical scene of a battle -between a sheep and a Wolf, in which neither could rightfully -claim the victory.</p> - -<p>April came, and no movement was made towards getting -the Maria off the beach, preparatory to the voyage to -Ochotsk. Captain Maschin complained that he could not -get men. In fact, there was so much work to be done at -the settlement, and the number of hands so much reduced -by the California expedition, that it was impossible to spare -laborers for the vessels. Moreover, many of them were -sick, and among the healthy there were no sailors; so operations -in the navigation line were suspended.</p> - -<p>May commenced with quite pleasant and warm weather. -About the 10th, the ship Okain, Captain Jonathan Winship, -arrived at the sound. He came direct from the United -States without any cargo, but for the express purpose of -obtaining Kodiak Indians and baidarkas for a voyage to -California to catch sea-otter, on the same plan I had relinquished -on the sale of my ship. He made all the necessary -arrangements, and sailed about the middle of the -month.</p> - -<p>The mild weather melted the snow very fast, and by the -last of May the frost was all out of the ground. Governor -Baranoff was desirous of having a good kitchen garden, -and so, to commence the business with a sort of flourish, -we made up a pretty substantial picnic party. A little way -back from the shore we found a considerable clearing without<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span> -underbrush, and here we staked out about two acres of -land. It was good soil, deep and rich, and we all tried our -hand at the spade. The Governor setting the example, we -went to work with a good will. Soon getting tired, we -adjourned to the refreshments, at which it was thought -we showed more talent than at the spade. Some of us, they -told us, got quite <em>blue</em> by the time we had finished our labors. -This was the first ground ever broken for a garden at New -Archangel. Another diversion was taking salmon, which -at this season ran up into the creeks and inlets in great -numbers. As many of the people as could be detached from -their regular occupations were set to catching them, and -curing them for winter provisions, in the manner I have -before described.</p> - -<p>While waiting impatiently for the arrival of the Juno, -I made many excursions about the sound in my baidarka. -About seven or eight miles from the village, there was a -hot-water spring which I visited. Situated in a beautiful, -romantic place, the water runs down from the foot of a -high mountain, in a small serpentine rivulet, for several -hundred yards, and empties into a broad basin, several rods -in diameter, which has a sandy bottom. The heat of the -water at its source is about 150°, and as it spreads over -the basin below it cools down to 100°. It is strongly impregnated -with sulphur, and with salt and magnesia.</p> - -<p>To our great joy, on the 21st of June the Juno returned -from California, with all our friends and a tolerable supply -of wheat, jerked beef, English beans, &c.; but his Excellency -failed to make any arrangement for the future. The -Governor of San Francisco remonstrated against sending -Russian subjects to hunt sea-otter on the shores and in the -harbors of New Albion, and prevailed upon Baron von<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span> -Resanoff to promise to put a stop to all adventures of that -nature.</p> - -<p>I immediately applied to Resanoff to know how and when -he intended to fulfil his promise of providing me a passage -to Ochotsk. It was now the last of June, and there were -no preparations in either of the vessels for that purpose. -He told me that the Juno should be got ready as soon as -the little vessel could be rigged to accompany her; but the -little vessel was yet on the stocks, and it did not appear to -me, from the rate at which the work was progressing, that -she would be in sailing order before August. In fact, I -became quite alarmed, lest the season should be so far advanced -that I should be obliged to make a winter journey -across the Russian Empire. I had had some conversation -with Dr. Langsdorff about taking the brig Russisloff, if -they would allow me, and making my own way to Ochotsk. -The Doctor eagerly caught at the idea, and resolved to go -with me, if I could obtain her. I accordingly made the -proposal to his Excellency, and it was readily accepted. He -offered to put as many men to work upon the Russisloff -as I needed. She was a little craft of twenty-five tons -burden, built by the Russian American Company at Bhering’s -Bay, and in construction a kind of nondescript. She -was lying high and dry upon the beach, but, with the assistance -rendered, I had her ready for sea in less than a week, -well stored with a plenty of the best provisions the place -afforded. My crew consisted of seven men, three of whom -were Indians and natives of Alashka, making with Dr. -Langsdorff, my man Parker, and myself, ten in all. I am -happy to say that everything was done by the authorities -to expedite my departure, and they all seemed anxious to -show me every kindness and attention in their power. Having<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span> -been furnished with the necessary papers for my voyage, -I took leave of his Excellency Baron von Resanoff, Governor -Baranoff, and my other friends, and put to sea on -the 30th of June, 1806, shaping my course for the island -of Kodiak.</p> - - -<hr class="r20" /> - -<h4>V.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Dull Sailing.—I touch at Kodiak and Alashka.—Take in Passengers -at Oonalashka.—No Prospect of completing my Voyage this Season.—Determine -to winter at Petropowlowsk.</p> -</div> - -<p>Being at sea again, and on my own vessel, I had leisure -for a more deliberate view of the step I had taken, in attempting -to seek my own way to Ochotsk, in preference -to waiting for the Juno. My little craft was large and safe -enough for my purpose; but I was now convinced by her -sluggish motion that it was very doubtful whether I gained -the port of my destination before it was too late in the -autumn to pursue my journey across Siberia. Our best -sailing before the wind was hardly five knots, and by the -wind two and a half. We had a voyage of 2,500 miles -before us, and at a season of the year in that water most -subject to calms, light winds, and fogs.</p> - -<p>This tract of ocean, from longitude 130° west, along the -entire coast of Alashka and through the seas of Kamtchatka -and Ochotsk, was at that time the great place of resort of -the right whale. Persecuted in all its other haunts, it had -sought refuge in this northern region, where as yet a whaleship -had never made its appearance. We were frequently -surrounded by them. Sometimes they would take a position -at the windward, and come down towards us, as if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span> -they were determined to sink us; but when they had approached -within eight or ten rods, they would dip and go -under, or make a circuit round us. Most of them were -much longer than our vessel, and it would have taken but -a slight blow from one to have smashed her into a thousand -pieces.</p> - -<p>On the 13th of July we saw the high land near the entrance -of Cook’s Inlet; and on the 17th arrived at the harbor -of St. Paul, in the island of Kodiak, after a passage of -eighteen days, and which might have been performed by an -ordinary sailing craft, with the same winds, in ten days. -Here my letters of introduction made me acquainted with -Mr. Bander, the Company’s Superintendent. He received -us with great cordiality, and readily procured me a man -to serve as mate. He likewise furnished all the supplies we -were in need of, and saw that they were put on board; so -that Dr. Langsdorff and myself had little else to do than -to look about and see the lions. The village consisted of -about forty houses, of various descriptions, including a -church, school-house, storehouse, and barracks. The school-house -was quite a respectable establishment, well filled with -pupils, under the especial care, as teacher, of the “Pope,”<a id="FNanchor_30" href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> -or ecclesiastic. He instructed them in reading, writing, -arithmetic, and keeping accounts. Many among them were -excellent scholars in these branches. The Doctor and myself -made an excursion to an adjacent island, where the -Pope had a considerable tract of land under cultivation, -raising potatoes, cabbages, turnips, cucumbers, and other -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span>vegetables. He also kept several milch cows, and appeared -to live in quite a farmer-like style. We concluded to pass -the night with him, and were hospitably entertained by -his wife.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="in_145f" style="max-width: 50em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/in_145f.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">ST. PAUL IN THE ISLAND OF KODIAK</div> -</div> - -<p>Having taken on board some freight of skins and sea-elephant’s -teeth for Ochotsk, and a cask of brandy for the -island of Oonalashka, on the 23rd of July we took leave -of our friends, Mr. Bander and the Pope, and started again -on our route. The wind was so strong from the southeast -that I found it impossible to weather the southern point of -the island, and thus to get to the westward of it. I concluded -to bear up, and pass through the Schelikoff’s Strait. -This is a channel formed by an archipelago of islands (of -which Kodiak is the principal), and the peninsula of -Alashka. But by reason of light and contrary winds, we -did not get fairly into the strait until the 26th, and shortly -after encountered a strong wind from the west, with heavy -squalls, which soon increased to such a severe gale, that we -were compelled to seek shelter on the Alashka shore. Here -I found my Indian sailors, who had proved good men from -the beginning, to be of the greatest service. I mentioned -above that they were natives of Alashka, and they were perfectly -acquainted with the shore. They pointed out to me -a good harbor, for which I steered; and as we rounded the -point at its entrance, which was called Kudak, a baidarka -containing one man came alongside. He turned out to be -the father of one of my sailors, and they had not seen each -other before for two years. They did not appear, however, -to be over-rejoiced at this accidental meeting. They embraced -each other after the Russian custom, had a little chat -together, and then went about their business, without showing -any disposition for further communication.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span></p> - -<p>In the course of the night the gale increased so much -that I deemed it prudent to let go our best bow-anchor; -but with the return of light the wind abated, and the -weather became quite pleasant. Doctor Langsdorff and -myself took our baidarka, and went to the village, which -was situated on the opposite side of the harbor from where -we lay. It consisted of eight or ten habitations, which -looked more like mounds of earth than houses. They contained -but one room, of an oval form, and about fifteen -feet across. The earth was dug out about three feet in -depth, and raised from the surface about three feet more, -and to enter we had to crawl on our hands and knees. The -light was admitted through windows of transparent skins, -as a substitute for glass. Their quarters were certainly -comfortable for winter. The floors were covered with -spruce boughs, and mats were laid over them, which made -the apartment dry and warm. An aperture was left in the -top for ventilation. The outside was covered with a luxurious -growth of grass. The occupants were principally -women, with a few old men; the young men had all gone -out hunting the sea-otter, in the Russian service. Those -at home seemed to be quite happy and contented, and were -all employed in making water-proof garments from the -entrails of sea-lions, for their husbands and sweethearts. -We bought of them a number of articles of their manufacture,—curious -and very neat work,—such as pocket-books, -baskets, &c.,—and paid them in tobacco and beads.</p> - -<p>On the 28th of July, the wind being moderate and favorable, -we put to sea again, and pursued our course to the -westward along the coast of Alashka. We made but slow -progress on our voyage, and by the 9th of August we had -only reached the end of the peninsula. The same day we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span> -passed through between the island of Oonemak and the -easternmost of the Fox Islands. On the 12th we arrived -at the island of Oonalashka. I had no cause to stop here -beyond the desire of replenishing our water-casks and -stores. Owing to our tardy progress,—having as yet, performed -only one third of the distance from Kodiak to -Ochotsk,—our provisions were more than half consumed. -I therefore felt myself constrained to put in for a further -supply.</p> - -<p>The Company’s Superintendent, Lariwanoff, a gentleman -highly esteemed by them, had died a short time previous -to our arrival, leaving a widow and an only child, a daughter -about eighteen years of age. I was received by his successor -with much kindness, and with an apparent disposition -to facilitate my voyage. The harbor, Illuluk, was spacious -and well sheltered on all sides. There was a good anchorage -in four or five fathoms of water, on a sand and clay -bottom, at a convenient distance from the shore. While -making some necessary repairs on my little vessel, and getting -supplies aboard, Madam Lariwanoff learned that I -was bound to Ochotsk. She immediately came, and on her -knees entreated me to have compassion on her lonely and -bereaved condition, and let her and her daughter take passage -with me. Irkutsk in Siberia was her native place, -and thither she was desirous of returning after a residence -on this island ten years. Her solicitations were so earnest -that I had not the heart to refuse her, and notwithstanding -our contracted accommodations, entirely unfit for a woman’s -occupation, I resolved to take her under my protection. I -went aboard, and set about making the best possible arrangements -for her comfort, gave up my bunk, enlarged it sufficiently -for the mother and child together, and partitioned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span> -off the little cabin with a canvas screen. I immediately -commenced taking on board their goods and chattels, with -which, however, they were not overburdened; but she had -been preparing to leave the island for some time, and had -accumulated a goodly stock of provisions of various kinds,—several -barrels of eggs, put up in oil, smoked geese in -abundance, dried and pickled fish of an excellent quality, -and other things equally good. Thus our fare promised to -be the best the island afforded. In the mean time the Superintendent -began to make objections, and throw difficulties -in the way of the old lady’s going with me. She might -make reports which would not redound to his credit. But -I had it in my power to silence all his objections, having on -board the cask of brandy, which it was at my option to leave -with him, or take to Ochotsk. On his application for it, -I demurred until he withdrew all his opposition to the -widow’s leaving, and was willing to grant anything on the -island we wished. He was a dear lover of “the ardent.”</p> - -<p>Everything now went on smoothly, and in a few days -we were ready for sea; but adverse winds detained us, and -I seized the opportunity to take a stroll over the island with -the Doctor and Superintendent. It was totally bare of -trees and shrubs, and with little or no game but foxes. The -whole value and importance of the Aleutian group consist -in the sea animals taken on their shores and bays, such as -fur-seals, walruses, sea-lions, and sea-otter; though of the -latter there were few. This is likewise the principal depot -of the fisheries of the smaller islands, and from here the -furs are periodically shipped to Ochotsk. In the course -of our ramble we ascended some high table-land with the -hope of obtaining a view of the new island, which we were -informed had recently made its appearance in the Sea of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span> -Kamtchatka, to the northwest of Oonalashka; but we were -disappointed by a thick mist’s setting in, which obscured all -distant objects. After wandering about in the numerous -fox-paths, and with great caution, to avoid the many traps -set for those animals, we returned to the village, somewhat -hungry and leg-weary, and with but little satisfaction to -boast of, beyond traversing a region rendered classic by the -verse of Campbell, in the “Pleasures of Hope”:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container fs80"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="verse indentq">“Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">On Behring’s rocks, or Greenland’s naked isles;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">From wastes that slumber in eternal snow;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And waft, across the waves’ tumultuous roar,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The wolf’s long howl from Oonalashka’s shore.”</div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">But, in fact, I was the only Wolf ever known upon the -island. Nevertheless, I came near verifying the poet’s language, -as I barely escaped being caught in one of those fox-traps; -in which event I should have probably howled lustily, -for they were terrible instruments.</p> - -<p>August 16th, the wind and weather being favorable, -Madame Lariwanoff, her daughter, and man-servant, came -on board, and we put to sea; and I have every reason to -believe with the fervent prayers of every individual upon -the island for God’s blessing upon their patroness, and good -speed to our little craft. The next day we saw the new -island, to which I was desirous to get near enough to send -a baidarka, particularly as the Doctor was anxious to get -some specimens of natural history; but a thick fog coming -up, and having a leading wind, we concluded to continue -our voyage without loss of time. On the 18th we lost sight -of the islands, and, with a light wind and rain, slowly pursued -our course to the westward, across the Sea of Kamtchatka,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span> -to the north of the Aleutian group; but such was -our tardy progress, that by the 28th we had only reached -the neighborhood of Atter, the most western island. Then -for ten days in succession we had calms, fogs, and light -adverse winds. Our patience was sorely tried, but the -monotony of our life was alleviated by the numerous and -great variety of sea-birds, which were constantly flying -round us, and furnished endless sport with the musket. -And here I feel bound to record the marvellous skill, or -good luck, of the Doctor, as he killed a whole flock of four -wild geese at one shot; and, what was still better, we got -out our baidarka, and took them all aboard.</p> - -<p>Still creeping along with the same dull winds and disagreeable -weather, on the 3d of September we found ourselves -in latitude 52° north, and longitude 170° east, which -placed us a considerable distance southwest of Atter. We -began to entertain fears lest we should not reach the port -of our destination in season; but on the 6th, for the first -time since leaving Oonalashka, we took a strong northeast -gale, which carried us into the vicinity of the Kurile Islands. -Our hopes began to revive, and the prospect of reaching -Ochotsk to brighten; but again were we doomed to disappointment. -A severe blow from the southeast obliged -us to heave to, with a heavy sea running; and we drifted -back over the course we had just sailed, at the rate of two -miles an hour. A considerable quantity of the provisions -for the sailors consisted of whale’s blubber, which was -hanging on our quarter, and was of course well soaked with -oil. This we found to be a great advantage, for it made -a “slick” to the windward for nearly a mile, and prevented -the sea from breaking over us.</p> - -<p>Strong westerly winds continued to baffle us until the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span> -14th, when, having no hope of reaching Ochotsk before the -autumn was so far spent that we should be obliged to make -a winter’s journey across Siberia, we concluded to alter our -course, and sail for the harbor of St. Peter and St. Paul, -or Petropowlowsk, in Kamtchatka. We made port on the -22d, and anchored abreast the village. We were kindly and -hospitably received by the Company’s Superintendent, as -well as by the officers of the military department, and -especially by Major Antony Ivanah and lady, who showed -me many civilities. Madam Lariwanoff and daughter were -taken in charge by the Superintendent, and provided with -comfortable quarters. The Doctor and myself at once took -temporary lodgings on the shore, until we could make permanent -arrangements for the winter. Having discharged -all the cargo, and dismantled our little craft, we hauled her -up on the beach at the first spring tide. Provisions and accommodations -were provided at the settlement for the crew -as well as ourselves; and in fact the people seemed desirous -to do everything in their power to render our stay amongst -them as comfortable and agreeable as the nature of the place -would admit.</p> - - -<hr class="r20" /> - -<h4>VI.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Settled for another Winter.—Arrival of old Friends.—Dogs and -Sledging.—A Russian Christening.</p> -</div> - -<p>Detained for another winter, we endeavored at once to -make the acquaintance of the inhabitants of the village, and -to become familiar with the country in its vicinity. We -were introduced to all the people of note, and kindly entertained -by them. We made pedestrian excursions for several<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span> -miles in every direction, and visited all the common -places of resort. The scenery was picturesque, and the -view from the elevations was beautiful and grand. The -Awatska Bay, or outer harbor, as it is called, is completely -land-locked, and at the same time so extensive, that a thousand -ships might ride at anchor in it with safety. The distant -mountains, and particularly the high peak Awatska, -add greatly to the landscape. The latter presents the imposing -spectacle of a volcano in full blast, always overhung -with a cloud of smoke, and constantly belching fire and -lava.</p> - -<p>We had only one source of annoyance at the village during -the early part of our stay, and we soon became well -used to that. I refer to the barking of the numerous dogs, -though it can scarcely be called barking, for they howl like -a wolf. At sunset regularly they would begin their serenade -at one end of the settlement,—which, by the way, extended -all round the harbor,—and in the course of half an hour -all the voices would join in the chorus, and keep it up all -night long. With this single temporary drawback, we -passed our time very pleasantly until the first of November. -By then we had visited on foot all the places in the more -immediate neighborhood, and we concluded to make a short -boat excursion to a small river named Paratunka, to see -some warm springs situated several miles from its mouth. -This spring issues from the ground in a boiling state, and -spreads out over a basin excavated for its reception. It -forms an excellent bathing-place, being of suitable depth, -with a sandy bottom, and the bather can choose any degree -of warmth he pleases. The water is impregnated with -sulphur and other minerals. We found here some Russian -invalids who had come to enjoy the use of the spring. All -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span>the rivers in the neighborhood abounded in salmon, though -it was so late in the season; and we protracted our stay for -a day or two, hunting and fishing, and boiling our game in -the hot water of the spring.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="in_152f" style="max-width: 50em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/in_152f.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">PETROPOWLOWSK IN KAMTCHATKA</div> -</div> - -<p>On our return to the village we were surprised to find -one of our old Norfolk Sound friends, Lieutenant Davidoff, -who had arrived at the harbor in command of the little new -vessel built at Sitcha, and called the Awos. He had left -the Sound in August, accompanied by the Juno, under the -command of Lieutenant Schwostoff, and having Baron von -Resanoff on board to be carried to Ochotsk. He had parted -with them off the Kurile Islands. About the middle of -November Lieutenant Schwostoff made his appearance with -the Juno. After landing his Excellency about Ochotsk, he -received orders to proceed to one of the southernmost of -the Kurile Islands, and break up a Japanese settlement reported -to have been established there. He found at the -place four Japanese, with a large stock of goods for trade -with the islanders, consisting of rice, tobacco, fish-nets, -lacquered ware, salt, cotton, silk, and many other articles; -all of which he seized without opposition, and brought -Japanese, goods, and all to Kamtchatka. Thus we met -our old friends in a very unexpected manner. As we were -doomed to pass another winter in this region, their company -was very pleasant, and to have the Juno in sight again -was especially agreeable to me.</p> - -<p>I now took lodgings in a shanty owned and occupied by -a very clever old man, named Andra, and his wife and little -boy. I called him in a familiar way Starruk, that is old -man, and his wife Starruke, old woman. He was quite -thrifty for the place, and was one of the few in the village -who owned and kept a cow. This was a fortunate circumstance,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span> -for good milk was a rarity in that section. His -shanty was warm and comfortable, and was divided into -three apartments. In one corner of the largest they made -a bunk for me, and curtained it round. My man Parker -slept in the same room on a movable bed. In the next -room, which was the cooking-room, there was a large brick -oven, or furnace, and on the top of this slept Starruk, his -wife, and little boy. The third apartment was devoted to -the cow and her fodder. At this place I took my meals at -night and morning, but dined by general invitation at the -Company’s table, at the house of the Superintendent. Comfortably -settled in my new quarters, I prepared for a long -winter’s siege.</p> - -<p>It was necessary to be provided with a set of good dogs -and a sledge. With the assistance of Starruk I was soon -possessed of five of the best animals of the kind, and had -them tied up near the house, that they might get accustomed -to me, and be ready for use. In the spring of the year the -dogs are turned loose, and left to provide for themselves, -in the best way they can. Hence they are great thieves -until the herring season comes, when they have an abundant -supply of food, which they go into the water and catch for -themselves, until they become very fat, and unfit for use.<a id="FNanchor_31" href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> -At that season, too, great quantities of the herring are -caught by the owners of the dogs, and split and dried in -the sun, to feed them in the winter, when they give them -nothing else.</p> - -<p>I also purchased a first-rate sledge, at once light and -handsome, fur garments, Kamtchatka boots, bear-skin, and -everything needed to make my equipage complete; and,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span> -now fully prepared, I waited impatiently for the snow. -There had been already several squalls, but about the last -of November the ground was well covered and the winter -set in. My dogs were in good travelling condition, and -I now made my first essay, with three of them to begin -with. The style in which they tumbled me about in the -snow was “a caution,” as Paddy says, and furnished great -amusement to the villagers. But I persevered, with a determination -to make myself master of the business, and -at the end of a week was quite an adroit performer. The -sledges were so constructed, that it required nearly as much -skill and practice to keep in equilibrium as in skating; but -when well understood, they afforded a most splendid recreation -and agreeable exercise. Being soon able to harness -and manage my five dogs with dexterity, we used frequently -to make a party, consisting of Langsdorff, Schwostoff, -Davidoff, and Miasnikoff, and go out on excursions to the -neighboring villages, from ten to twenty miles distant. -When the weather was unfavorable, we had balls and -parties; and in this way the weeks and months of the long -winter passed off quite cheerfully.</p> - -<p>About the 1st of January, 1807, the Governor-General, -Koscheleff, who resides at Nischney, which is the capital -of Kamtchatka, made his annual visit of inspection to all -the military posts on the peninsula. His entrance into -Petropowlowsk with a long handsome sledge, a Kamtchadale -on each side, as conductors, and a string of twenty -dogs, was quite a new and pleasing sight to me. During -his stay of five days, we had royal feastings and visitings; -and when he left, half the village accompanied him to the -distance of ten or fifteen miles, myself among the number. -We made a string nearly a mile long.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span></p> - -<p>The sledging in Kamtchatka is not without some adverse -casualties to the best of managers. One occurred to me -which I will narrate. I was coming from Melka, an interior -village, with a load of frozen salmon, in company -with my landlord, Starruk, and, my dogs being better than -his, I got several miles ahead of him. The snow was deep, -but the top was crusted, and the underbrush all covered. -The surface was perfectly smooth, but interrupted by numerous -large trees; and to avoid them our track was serpentine. -At last we came to an inclined plane of a mile or -so in length, and, my sledge being heavily laden, it became -necessary for me to be constantly on my guard, and keep -a sharp lookout. Accordingly I took the usual preliminary -precaution in such cases, of sitting sideways, with the left -hand hold of the fore part, left foot on the runner, and my -right leg extended; my foot, slipping over the snow, operated -as a sort of an outrigger. The dogs at the same time, -fearful lest the sledge should run on to them, went down -the declivity like lightning. The trees seemed to grow -thicker and thicker, and to avoid them it soon became hard -up and hard down with me. At last, coming to a sharp curve -to the right, the sledge, shearing to the other side, struck -with such force as to scatter my whole establishment, and -I received such a blow on the head that it stunned me and -laid me out on the snow unconscious. When I came to a -little, and looked up, I saw my sledge was partly a wreck, -four of my dogs had broken from their harness and gone -on, while one, left fast in his gear, was sitting on his -haunches, and watching me with wonder, as much as to -say, “How came you here?” It was not long before Starruk -came up. He asked me what was the matter. I replied that -some one in passing had run foul of me. “No,” said he, “I -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>guess you run foul of that tree”; which, on collecting my -scattered thoughts I found to be the fact. But as there -were no bones broken, I brightened up, and, with the old -man’s assistance, caught my dogs again, repaired damages -and pursued my journey, not a little worse for my tumble.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="in_157f" style="max-width: 50em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/in_157f.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">SLEDGE AND EQUIPMENTS IN KAMTCHATKA</div> -</div> - -<p>I will mention another circumstance which occurred to -me,—not that there was anything extraordinary in it, but -merely to show the sagacity of dogs, and the convenience -of travelling with them. I was coming from a village about -ten miles distant. It was dusk when I started, and night -soon closed in with Egyptian darkness and an arctic snow-storm. -I could not see even my dogs. The new snow soon -covered and obliterated the old track. It was difficult to -tell whether I was going ahead or standing still, without -putting my foot through the new-fallen snow down to the -old crust. In this way I went on for an hour or so, the -dogs making very slow progress, and very hard work of it. -Not being able to see anything, I somehow or other became -persuaded that the dogs had inclined to the left of the -beaten track, and consequently I kept urging them to the -right. Thus I went on for some time, until I found myself -in a forest of large trees, and had much difficulty in keeping -clear of them. At last I became decidedly bewildered, but -convinced that I had lost my way. Not knowing whither -I was going, and fearing that I might wander, the Lord -knew where, during the long night, I concluded to halt, -and make my dogs fast to a tree. I then sat awhile on my -sledge, and listened, to see if I could hear anybody, and -finally prepared my bear-skin and fur garments for a night’s -bivouac. I had not lain more than an hour before I heard -the howling of dogs; my own immediately answered them. -I found they were approaching, and when I judged them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span> -to be within hailing distance, I called out. A man called -out in return, and soon drove up. It was a Kamtchadale -coming from Petropowlowsk. It appeared that I had urged -the dogs a considerable distance from the proper track, -which, with the new-comer’s assistance, I regained. He -told me not to attempt to guide the dogs, but to let them -pick their own way. I accordingly sat on my sledge for -an hour or so, scarcely realizing that I was moving, till at -last I turned my eyes up, and found myself right under the -light of my own window.</p> - -<p>These little mishaps occurred while I was yet a novice -in the art of sledging; but I soon became acquainted with -the habits and dispositions of my dogs, and they became -accustomed to me, so that I travelled fearlessly, alone or -in company, and made excursions to all the villages in the -southern part of the peninsula within a hundred miles of -Petropowlowsk. While I was amusing myself in the southern, -the Doctor was traversing the northern part of Kamtchatka -all by himself, and collecting specimens of natural -history.</p> - -<p>I was always an admirer of the rigid adherence of the -Russians to their religious forms and ceremonies. I never -saw a Russian, high or low, who did not, both before and -after eating, ask a blessing, and give thanks to God for his -bounty, apparently with a sincere and thankful heart. Yet -there were some things very absurd in their ceremonies. -For instance, I was invited to the christening of a child at -the house of the Superintendent, and requested to stand as -godfather with Dr. Langsdorff, as it was necessary, I was -told, to have two godfathers and two godmothers.<a id="FNanchor_32" href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> At<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span> -the appointed time we repaired to the house, where we -found the pope and numerous guests already assembled. -The pope had brought with him a small box, resembling -a tea-caddy, containing, as was said, consecrated oil. A -large tub full of water was placed in the centre of the room, -and the pope’s apparatus near at hand. He then commenced -the operation with prayers, after which, he took the child -in his arms and plunged it under the water. Then, with -a small brush and some oil from the box, he crossed the -child all over its body and legs, and afterwards marched -round the tub, and we, the godfathers and godmothers, -followed, in Indian file, three times around. The child was -then given to one of the godfathers, crossed again, and -round the tub we went three times more. And so it continued -until we all had taken our turns, and made fifteen -circuits of the tub. Now I thought this, or the greater -part of it, a nonsensical ceremony, and a piece of rigmarole; -but it was not my part to find fault or object to it, -and I willingly conformed to the custom.</p> - -<p>When it was over, the tub was taken away, and a table -put in its place, madam, the mother of the child, brought -on the goodies, pies of flesh and pies of fish, cakes of various -kinds, preserved berries, and many other things; but what -astounded me most was that a bottle of real ardent spirits -found its way to the table on this extra occasion, an article -which had disappeared from among our stores several -months previous. The pope paid his respects to it with -peculiar unction, and a glowing countenance, and the rest -of us were not slow in following suit. This was one of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span> -the friendly gatherings to which I made it a point never -to refuse an invitation; and I found the Russians very fond -of celebrating birthdays, christenings, and as many holidays -as they could make an excuse for.</p> - - -<hr class="r20" /> - -<h4>VII.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Voyage to Ochotsk.—Journey from Ochotsk to Yakutsk.</p> -</div> - -<p>About the last of March the snow began to disappear -rapidly, and by the middle of April the ground was so bare -that our sledging parties were abandoned. The ice had left -the bay, and all hands were at work, under the directions -of Lieut. Schwostoff and Davidoff, sawing and breaking -up the ice in the inner harbor, in order to extricate the -Juno and Awos, which had been preparing to sail for some -time. By the 25th the channel was cleared, and the two -vessels put to sea, with the four Japanese who had passed -the winter with us. Their destination was the northern -Japanese Islands, where they intended to land their passengers, -and make some further attempts to establish an intercourse -with the people.</p> - -<p>By this movement I was prompted to get my little craft -afloat and prepare for the remainder of my voyage. I was -admonished, by those acquainted with the breaking up of -the ice in the rivers at the head of the Ochotsk Sea, not -to be in a hurry; but my anxiety to be off rendered me deaf -to all remonstrances; and on the 22d of May I was ready. -At this point I was beset by a number of persons, both male -and female, for a passage to Ochotsk. I concluded to take -five in addition to Madam Lariwanoff and daughter, viz. -one elderly widow woman, one old woman and her daughter,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span> -one very respectable young man in the Company’s service, -and one other gentleman. Our party now numbered -eighteen. We were tolerably well equipped, and had an -abundant supply of such provisions as the place afforded. -When our arrangements were all completed, Doctor Langsdorff -and myself devoted a day to taking leave of the many -friends who had entertained us during the winter; and I -particularly of my old landlord and landlady, Starruk and -Starruke. To the former I paid what he thought a very -liberal compensation for the apartment I had occupied at -his house. I also made him a present of my sledge, its -equipage, and my dogs, with the exception of one, which -I took with me. To Starruke I gave my bedding, curtains, -and furniture. I <ins class="corr" id="tn-161" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'then bade good by'"> -then bade good-bye</ins> to these warm-hearted -people, and left them with their warmest prayers for a -prosperous voyage. Our passengers now came on board, -and, after making the best accommodations for them our -contracted quarters would admit, on the 26th, with fair -weather, we bade adieu to Petropowlowsk, and weighed -anchor.</p> - -<p>Favorable winds continued just long enough to give us -a good offing, when they became light and adverse, with -calms, and so continued for several days. On the 30th, -having just taken a brisk breeze, which was driving us -along, for a wonder, at nearly five knots, we ran into a large -whale which was lying near the surface. We somehow slid -up his back so as to raise our little vessel two or three feet -and throw her over on her side four or five streaks. It was -like striking a rock, and brought us to a complete standstill. -The monster soon showed himself, gave a spout, -“kicked” his flukes and went down. He did not appear -to be hurt, nor were we hurt, but most confoundedly frightened.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span> -I sounded the pump immediately, and found that -all was safe as to leakage, and we continued on our course -quite satisfied with the result.</p> - -<p>June 3d, we passed through between the second and third -Kurile Islands from the southern part of Kamtchatka, and -entered the Sea of Ochotsk. Here again we were annoyed -by the calms, which continued with but little variance until -the 14th, when we had reached latitude 58°. We now began -to meet ice, at first so scattered that we thought it possible -to push through it; but after working in amongst it for -a few hours, it became so compact as to be impassable, and -extended east, west, and north as far as the eye could reach, -even from the masthead a solid mass. Finding it impossible -to proceed any farther, and as the ice was closing rapidly -around us, I deemed it advisable to avail myself of that -better part of valor, discretion, and pole out as we had -poled in; for I had soon discovered that our little craft was -too slight to deal freely with heavy ice. Having gained the -open water, I steered to the eastward all day without finding -any passage-way. The wind proving unfavorable for -sailing in that direction, we turned and went westward. -Thus we continued for ten days, making various attempts -to get clear of the ice, and at last succeeded. On the 26th, -at meridian, we found our latitude 59°20′, and the land -was in sight. On the 27th, we anchored off the mouth of -the river Ochota. At 2 P. M., the tide turned, and we -crossed the bar, entered the harbor of Ochotsk, and made -fast to the Company’s wharf. Thus terminated a long and -tedious passage of thirty-three days.</p> - -<p>We were told here that the ice had only left the rivers -and bays four or five days. We were likewise informed, to -our great grief, that his Excellency Baron von Resanoff<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span> -had died at Krasnojarsk in Siberia, on his route to St. -Petersburg. He had fallen from his horse on the road from -Ochotsk to Yakutsk, which was supposed to be the cause -of his death. The passport and letters I had previously -received from his Excellency at once made me acquainted -with the Company’s Superintendent, Mr. Petroff; likewise -with the commandant of the port, Captain Bucharin. By -both these gentlemen I was treated with the utmost kindness -and civility; and, knowing my desire to be on my way -to St. Petersburg, they were both anxious to afford me -every facility in their power. A taboo was immediately put -upon a sufficient number of the first horses that arrived -from Yakutsk. With the greatest possible despatch, it was -necessary to wait a few days, and in the mean time I was -taken round the place to see the lions. They did not amount -to much. The town was situated on a sand spit, washed -by the sea on one side and the river Ochota on the other. -The river Kuchtin unites with the Ochota near the harbor’s -mouth, which, at the best, is an indifferent one, and not -accessible to vessels drawing more than eight feet of water. -The town is joined to the mainland by a narrow neck of -marshy ground, which is often inundated. In fact, it appeared -to me that any extra rise of the river or sea would -swamp the whole place. Some ship-building was going on -here, and many convicts were employed in the government -service.</p> - -<p>For my convenience, the privilege was accorded to me by -the Company of selecting a Russian subject to accompany -me on my road, as a kind of an assistant. A young man -by the name of Kutsnetsoff, or Smith, was pointed out as -one desirous of going with me, but the Superintendent did -not feel authorized to release him from the service, unless<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span> -I should think proper to select him, and I accordingly did -so. He had been ten years at the settlements on the Aleutian -Islands, and was anxious to return to Irkutsk, his native -place. He had a brother in Moscow, a merchant in high -standing, who was at the head of the Company’s establishment -there.</p> - -<p>On the morning of July 3d, my horses, eleven in number, -were brought out. They did not look very promising, as -they had been overworked on the route hither. This was -rather discouraging, for it was important that they should -be in a good condition for a journey of 500 miles, through -a country with no signs of a settlement except a few log -shanties at great distances asunder, and no road but a serpentine -footpath; moreover, we had a fair amount of luggage, -and for comfort and convenience we were obliged to -carry a tent, cooking-utensils, and bear-skins, &c. for bedding. -Bad as they were, these horses were better than none, -and I must make the best of them.</p> - -<p>Having completed my preparations, I took leave of my -highly esteemed friend, Dr. Langsdorff, who intended to -remain a week or so for the promotion of his favorite object; -also of Madam Lariwanoff and her daughter, my other -passengers, and sailors,—particularly of the three Alashka -Indians, who had proved themselves excellent men, and -rendered me good service.<a id="FNanchor_33" href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> They fell upon their knees and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span> -entreated me to take them with me. As this was impracticable, -I could only make them a gratuity in rubles, and -recommend them to the kindness of Mr. Petroff, in whose -employ and charge they were. Having finished our leave-takings, -we mounted our horses. There were five of us,—myself -and two aids, Parker and Kutsnetsoff, and two -Yakutas, the owners of the horses, and acting as guides. -Three of the other six horses carried our luggage, and the -remaining three were kept in reserve for a change on the -road. Dr. Langsdorff, the Superintendent, Captain Bucharin, -and other friends, accompanied us to the outskirts of -the town to take another and a final farewell, and we then -put spurs to our horses, and struck into the woods. We -went on at quite a spirited pace until five o’clock, when we -arrived at a small clearing called Medwescha Golowa, or -Bear’s Head, where there were a few huts. Here we dismounted -to lunch, and rest our horses for half an hour; -and then resumed our journey. At seven in the evening we -pitched our tent, and camped for the night, in a good place -for our horses to graze. As we carried no provender, this -was a matter of great importance throughout our whole -journey. We turned our beasts loose, and the Yakutschians -watched them by turns through the night. The distance -we travelled this day since eleven o’clock was 45 versts.<a id="FNanchor_34" href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a></p> - -<p>Ochotsk is situated in latitude 59°30′, and Yakutsk in -about 63°. The direction of our course was west-northwest -and the distance in a bee-line 500 miles; but by reason of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span> -tortuous nature of the route we were obliged to pursue, -the distance was much increased. In such an extent of wild -country there were doubtless many objects that would have -attracted the attention of the man of science; but being -myself neither naturalist, botanist, nor geologist, I had no -call to search to the right or to the left for specimens. My -business was to push on as fast as my horses could carry -me, having an especial regard for my bills of exchange. -I paid but little attention to the names of the numerous -small rivers and mountains which we crossed, merely noticing -some of the principal. To me the country wore even -a greater degree of sameness than other unsettled regions.</p> - -<p>July 4th. We collected our horses and struck our tent -at 7 A. M., mounted, and continued our journey. Several -large caravans of horses passed us in the forenoon, laden -with flour and provisions for Ochotsk. In the afternoon, -we crossed a ridge of tolerably high mountains, and then -came upon swampy ground. At five o’clock we reached -a small river; but it was so deep we were obliged to ferry -our luggage over in a boat, and swim our horses. We -went on until eight in the evening, when we encamped. The -distance travelled this day was 47 versts.</p> - -<p>July 5th. We had a thick fog and rain through the night. -It cleared up in the morning, and we mounted at seven, and -continued our journey through valleys and over mountains, -with extremely bad travelling, the whole day. The weather -growing hot, we were sorely annoyed by the mosquitos, and -were obliged to wear leather gloves and a kind of hood in -the shape of a sun-bonnet, with a gauze veil to protect the -face. Our white horses became perfectly pink with the -blood drawn from them by these insects. We pitched our -tents at six in the evening. The distance travelled this day -was 55 versts.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span></p> - -<p>July 6th. Started at seven, and had pleasant, but rather -warm weather. In the course of the day we forded several -small rivers without unpacking our horses, and passed four -caravans with stores for Ochotsk. At five in the afternoon -we came to a small group of shanties where was kept a -magazine of provisions and a stud of horses for government -emergencies. This place was 190 versts from Ochotsk. -Taking tea here, we proceeded until seven o’clock, and then -encamped in a tolerably good grazing-place. The distance -travelled this day was 55 versts.</p> - -<p>July 7th. Started this morning at six. The travelling -was extremely bad, and the ground swampy; the horses -sank in the mire up to their saddle-girths. By noon we -came to better going. Passed to-day, beside caravans, several -droves of cattle on the way to Ochotsk. Distance, 60 -versts.</p> - -<p>July 8th. Fine weather, but the travelling very poor -again. At ten in the morning arrived at the banks of the -river Allacjun, one of the largest tributaries of the Aldan. -We ferried our baggage across, and swam our horses. At -three in the afternoon we halted and turned our beasts out -to graze. Owing to the uneven and miry road they had -passed over, they were much fatigued and galled. Distance -this day, 40 versts.</p> - -<p>July 9th. Started at six in the morning. Passed several -caravans, and at five in the afternoon met the government -post for Ochotsk. At nine, pitched our tent on the bank of -a small tributary of the Allacjun. Distance this day, 65 -versts.</p> - -<p>July 10th. Rained all the fore part of the day. Our route -was through a gorge between high ridges of mountains. -Distance travelled, 50 versts.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span></p> - -<p>July 11th. The weather was pleasant and warm, the -country rugged and mountainous. At four in the afternoon -we came to the foot of a high and steep mountain, and -halted to make preparations for the ascent. Our horses had -already become so weak and travel-worn, that it was doubtful -whether they would succeed in crossing it. My Yakutschian -guides lifted their tails to ascertain their strength. -On those that had limber tails the weight of the baggage -was reduced, and increased on those that had stiff tails. I -noticed them also pulling hair from the manes, and tying -it to the branches of trees; whether this was done to invoke -the good, or propitiate the evil spirits, I could not make out. -After they had adjusted things to suit them, we took off -our coats, and started, leading our beasts. The ground -was so very springy that it was with great difficulty that -we could pick our way. Two of the baggage horses mired -before we reached the top, and we were obliged to unload -in order to extricate them. We finally gained the summit,—which -after all was not so very high,—and, having -rested a little, descended. Continuing our course through -a narrow valley, at 6 P. M. we crossed the river Allakum, -and stopped at a small cluster of shanties on its left bank. -There was a ferry for bipeds, but such of the poor horses -as were able were obliged to swim. The stream was so -rapid, that mine had a hard tug to get across. Distance -this day, 50 versts.</p> - -<p>It was necessary to make a halt soon for a day or two -to recruit, and this was a favorable place. The government -had a station and postilion here. Four of my horses were -completely broken down, and I left them, and hired six -fresh ones. We also replenished our stock of provisions.</p> - -<p>July 14th. Mounted at 5 A. M., and passed over a very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span> -high mountain, and descended into a narrow, serpentine -valley, in which we travelled the better part of the day. We -passed several caravans and droves of beef cattle. Distance, -55 versts.</p> - -<p>July 15th. Our route this day over boggy ground again, -and the travelling was therefore as poor as ever. Our -horses’ backs were very sore, and they were all nearly exhausted. -We pitched our tent early in the afternoon at a -good grazing-place, to give them a little rest. Distance, -40 versts.</p> - -<p>July 16th. The weather this day was warm and pleasant, -and road not so mountainous as it had been. At 5 P. M., -one of our horses gave out, and we left him. Continuing -on until seven, we pitched our tent on the banks of the White -River. Distance, 50 versts.</p> - -<p>July 17th. At 6 A. M. we mustered together our horses, -and found that four were missing. We spent half the day -in a fruitless search for them, and then concluded that they -were either killed or frightened away by the bears, which -are very plentiful in this region. We pursued our journey, -much of the way through mud and water up to the saddle-girths. -Distance, 30 versts.</p> - -<p>July 18th. Struck our tent at 7 A. M., and at nine crossed -the White River. All the early part of the day, until within -twenty versts of the Aldan, we found the road very good. -Here we saw before us an extensive morass, to avoid which -it would be necessary to go the distance of thirty versts. -This morass was about a quarter of a mile in breadth, and -partially covered with water, interspersed with little grass -knolls, which were soft and unsteady. Disagreeable as the -prospect was, we concluded to go straight across. We accordingly -fastened on the baggage tighter, stripped off all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span> -our clothes but shirt and pants, and secured them to the -saddles, and started, leading our horses, each one picking -out the way for himself. In about half an hour we succeeded -in flouncing through without accident; but it was -a tiresome job, and we got well plastered with mud. Putting -ourselves and luggage in order, we proceeded until 10 -P. M., when we reached the government station on the -right bank of the Aldan, having left two of our horses on -the road exhausted.</p> - -<p>We had now reached the principal station on the route, -which was about two thirds the distance to Yakutsk; and -I determined to halt for a day or two to recruit, after passing -fifteen in the saddle. At first I was quite pleased with -the idea of this land excursion, but I found in a very little -while that it was no joke. I was sore all over, from head -to foot. The clumsy saddles we rode were anything but -convenient. The pommels were of wood and raised about -six inches, and in the hollow between sat the rider. There -was just space enough for an ordinary-sized man; and -being myself light and spare of person, there was plenty -of room for me to shake in my seat. I soon hit upon -an expedient, however, to alleviate my suffering. I bolstered -up with pillows, so that by the fourth day my pains -and aches subsided, and afterward I was tolerably comfortable. -Still the incessant torments of the mosquitos -and miry roads were hard to bear. I soon grew sick of -this horse-marine navigation, and came to the conclusion -that the spray of the sea was far preferable to a mud bath. -We made up as well as we could for the annoyance of bad -roads, bogs, and small rivers, by taking reasonable care of -the inner man. I mentioned before, that we took our cooking -apparatus and provisions with us. We had bread and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span> -sugar, and the tea-kettle was in constant requisition morning -and evening. Sometimes at the shanties on the route -we obtained a little milk. At noon we generally had a substantial -lunch of Bologna sausage or corned meat, and a -glass of schnapps.</p> - -<p>Having rested and refreshed ourselves sufficiently, I made -an arrangement with the postilion of the station to take -us through the remainder of the distance, as from here to -the banks of the Lena there were relays of horses at points -twenty-five or thirty versts asunder.</p> - -<p>July 21st. Being all ready for a move, our horses were -gathered together at the river’s side. There was only one -small boat belonging to the place, in which we made out to -ferry ourselves and baggage over; but the poor horses were -obliged to swim. Such was their dislike to the water, that -we were detained half a day trying to force them in. At -last we succeeded, by taking two of them by the halter, one -on each side of the boat, and letting the others, five in number, -follow on their own hook. The current was so rapid -that they swam the distance of two versts, when the width -of the stream at this point was only one, before they reached -the opposite shore. They crawled up on the bank quite -exhausted, and we were obliged to remain awhile for them -to recover. At 2 P. M. we mounted and pursued our journey. -At eight in the evening we pitched our tent at the -first post-station after leaving the Aldan. The distance -travelled was 35 versts.</p> - -<p>July 22d. Changed horses and started at 6 A. M. The -travelling was much improved, and at 5 P. M. we came to -the second stand, on the bank of the Anger, after a ride -of 50 versts. We passed over this river in the usual manner, -and went on 25 versts more to the third station, where we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span> -paused for the night, quite satisfied with our day’s progress.</p> - -<p>July 23d. At 9 A. M. started with fresh horses and continued -on our route. The travelling was still more improved, -and the country generally had a more agreeable -appearance. The high mountains had disappeared, and we -rode over level prairies, beautifully diversified with grasses -and a great variety and profusion of flowers. Among the -latter the red pink predominated, the odor of which scented -the whole atmosphere, and made the journey delightful. -At 1 P. M. we changed our horses at the fourth station, -and at six arrived at the fifth, where we passed the night. -Distance, 60 versts.</p> - -<p>July 24th. We had pleasant weather, and at 7 A. M. -started on our route. At 8 P. M. we arrived at the seventh -station, where we encamped for the night, and paid the -postilion 35 rubles for the use of his horses, this being the -last station to which he had authority to take us. Distance, -60 versts.</p> - -<p>July 25th. At 7 A. M. we resumed our journey under -the charge of another postilion. Our horses, since leaving -the Aldan, had generally been very good; but this morning -I found myself on a splendid animal, of a cream color, -singularly and beautifully marked. A dark brown stripe -about a hand’s breadth ran from the crupper to the withers, -and then spread over the shoulders in a broad patch; his -mane and tail reached nearly to the ground. I could see -that he was well groomed and cared for, but I was rather -shy about mounting him at first. I was assured, however, -that he was well broken and gentle, and I found him so. -He was certainly the most perfect creature of the kind I -ever rode or set eyes on. The plains over which we travelled -this day were dotted over with <ins class="corr" id="tn-172" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'iunnmerable cattle'"> -innumerable cattle</ins> and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[173]</span> -horses grazing. At 9 P. M. we arrived at the tenth station -and pitched our tent. Distance, 75 versts.</p> - -<p>July 26th. At 7 A. M. we continued on our route, and -at 4 P. M. reached the right bank of the river Lena, which -I crossed, and was kindly received and entertained at the -Company’s establishment at Yakutsk. This town, the capital -of the province of the same name, covers a large space -of ground. The houses were mostly of logs, but some were -spacious and tolerably handsome, and surrounded with large -gardens. The churches and other public buildings, with -their cupolas, made quite a conspicuous and pleasing appearance -as we approached the place, but the streets were irregular, -unpaved, and muddy. The latitude of the town -is 62°30′ N.</p> - -<p>The breadth of the Lena at Yakutsk is about two miles. -This magnificent river takes its rise in the southern part -of Siberia, in lat. 52°. Its general course is northeast, and -it empties into the Arctic Ocean in lat. 75°. With its tributaries -it forms the principal channel for the discharge of -the great water-sheds of the eastern part of the empire, -and the thoroughfare of communication with the provinces -of Ochotsk, Kamtchatka and the Aleutian Islands. Down -this stream vessels carried the various articles needed in -those distant regions, such as bread-stuffs, liquors, and -manufactures, and brought up in return the furs and other -commodities which found a ready market in China and -Russia.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span></p> - - -<hr class="r20" /> - -<h4>VIII.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Yakutsk.—Different Modes of Travelling.—Voyage up the Lena.—I -arrive at Irkutsk.</p> -</div> - -<p>I determined to remain at Yakutsk a few days, to look -around and ascertain the best mode of proceeding up the -river to Irkutsk. The distance in a straight line was about -1500 miles, but by following the stream it would be much -increased. There were post-stations the whole way, mostly -on the left bank, and at intervals of twenty or thirty versts. -At these horses were kept by the government, and one mode -of making the proposed journey was in a small open boat, -which was towed by them after the manner of a canal-boat, -except that passengers changed boats at every station. Another -mode, and that which I decided to adopt, was to hire -a larger craft, with mast and sails, and perform the whole -distance without changing; but I was to have the privilege -of receiving assistance from the horses whenever necessary, -and for this purpose I obtained an order from the government -called a <em>deroshner</em> or <em>poderoshner</em>.</p> - -<p>As soon as I had come to this conclusion, I commenced -a search for a suitable boat, and at the same time I took -the opportunity to look round the town. Accompanied by -one of the gentlemen of the establishment, who devoted -himself to my service, I visited all the public places, including -the monastery, churches, and forts. I also called -on several families, and was introduced as an American -captain. Some of them were very inquisitive, and anxious -to know where America was. It was a mystery to them -how I got there, if I did not come by the way of St. Petersburg -and Moscow. I explained as well as I could without -an interpreter, but after all they appeared to be rather<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span> -sceptical. The Commandant, a cheerful and clever old man, -was very kind and obliging, and we exchanged several visits. -He asked for information with regard to our government -and constitution, which I explained as well as I could; and -as he understood no English and I very little Russ, it is -quite possible I was taken for a very knowing chap. When -I made a call at any one’s house, no matter what time of -day it was, if I stayed long enough for the tea-kettle to boil<a id="FNanchor_35" href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> -(which, by the way, was almost always kept boiling), I was -asked to take a cup of tea, and it was considered almost -an insult to refuse. The second cup was usually laced with -a little ardent spirits. This tea-drinking I found to be the -universal custom in Siberia.</p> - -<p>The sables collected in the vicinity of Yakutsk are the -finest and most beautiful in the world, and command a -much higher price than those from Kamtchatka. As I had -already collected a few skins as specimens, in my travels, -I requested the Superintendent of the Company’s establishment -to supply me with a pair of the very best this district -produced, and he kindly complied. They were certainly -of great beauty, very dark-colored and shiny, with very long -and thick-set fur.</p> - -<p>I found a boat in a few days, belonging to a couple of -itinerant merchants, who had come down in her from the -head-waters of the river, which I thought would answer -my purpose. It was quite a nice boat, of about twenty feet -in length; a little aft the centre there was a small round-house, -with a sleeping-berth on each side. It had a keel, -but was of light draft. The mast carried one large square -sail; and we could row with two oars forward and two aft.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span> -I chartered the boat for the passage, and was to deliver it -up to the merchants, or their agent, when we had arrived -at head-waters. One man who came down in it was to return -with me, on condition he worked his passage; and I -found that the owners themselves desired to accompany us -to their home. I had no serious objection to this, provided -they supplied their own provisions; and, in fact, I thought -it might be rather an advantage, as they were acquainted -with the river. I gave them to understand at the outset, -however, that the cabin must be at my exclusive disposal, -and to this they readily agreed. I accordingly sent on board -my goods and chattels, cooking utensils, and provisions. -The Commandant, at my request, very obligingly appointed -a Cossack to go with me, and a smart, energetic little fellow -he was.</p> - -<p>Having made everything ready, I took leave of my friends -in Yakutsk, and assumed the command of my little craft, -on the morning of the 30th of July, and thus commenced -what was to me an entirely new phase of navigation. The -wind being adverse, I had the horses hitched on, and away -we went. My crew consisted of my man Parker, Kutsnetsoff, -the Cossack, the man who worked his passage, and -together with the two merchants and myself made seven of -us in all. My weapons of defence (of which, by the way, -there did not seem to be much need) consisted of a pair -of double-barrelled pistols with spring bayonets, and a large -broadsword, with a conspicuous gilt hilt finished off with -an eagle’s head. These implements looked dreadfully formidable -and warlike, and I deposited them in a convenient -place in my cabin. I assigned to Parker, Kutsnetsoff, and -the Cossack the berth which I did not use, and they were -to turn in and out by watches. The two merchants and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span> -other man were to select the best places to sleep they could -find elsewhere. With matters arranged in this way, we -went on in good style, the horses going most of the time -at a gentle trot. In the course of the day we passed two -post-stations.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the second day, having accomplished -about 150 versts of my journey, I stopped at a post-station, -where the official appeared to be a much more wide-awake -man than any we had passed. I sent my <em>deroshner</em> to be -written on, and my Cossack ordered the horses to be attached. -This order not being obeyed at once, I saw there -was some difficulty, and sent Kutsnetsoff to see what was -the matter. On returning, he asked me to go into the office -myself. So, hauling up the collar of my shirt, and, assuming -such an air of importance as I thought the case might -require, I went and demanded the cause of my detention. -“The horses are all ready for you, Sir,” said the postilion, -“but those two merchants cannot go in that boat. The government -don’t keep horses to accommodate travelling -traders. If they want horses, they must pay for them.” -There was no alternative, but that the fellows should leave -the boat; and, to my surprise, they did it without a word -of objection. Perhaps they were conscious that they had -taken advantage of my ignorance to get a passage home -free of charge. I was not sorry for their removal, although -they appeared to be good men; for one of them was a constant -singer of love-songs which were all High Dutch to -me, and from his proximity to my quarters his well-intended -music became very annoying. This difficulty removed, we -proceeded again, under three horse-power. By the time we -reached the next station, the wind became favorable, we -hoisted our sail to the breeze, and cast off from the horses.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span> -By keeping near the shore, out of the main current, we -made better progress in this way than we had done previously, -and passed several stations without stopping. And -so we went on by sail or by horse-power, according as the -winds were favorable or adverse.</p> - -<p>August 6th, we reached Olakminsk, which is about 600 -versts from Yakutsk. By this time I began to think the -mode of travelling I had chosen very pleasant. The season -was delightful, and the scenery as we passed along was -diversified with objects of sublimity and beauty. At times -we were moving through level country, and at times among -high mountains; in some places the river was contracted -to a narrow span by precipitous ranges of cliffs, and again -its broad expanse embraced many islands. To relieve the -monotony of the confinement on board my boat, I occasionally -rode on horseback from one station to another, and -found the change very agreeable. The country in some -places was thick-wooded, chiefly with fir and birch; in -others, it was clothed with shrubbery, and I noticed currant -and gooseberry bushes, and frequently alighted to refresh -myself with the fruit. We passed a number of small clusters -of shanties, inhabited by Tunguscans, in the vicinity -of which herds of cattle were grazing. Near the houses -were domestic reindeer of a large size. The children were -playing about in little groups, and the older ones were -amusing the younger by holding them on the backs of the -deer, and teaching them to ride,—making quite a rural -and domestic scene.</p> - -<p>We had at no time on our route any lack of good milk, -and once we had about a gallon of rich cream given us. -The idea struck me that it might be converted into butter; -I therefore had it put into a large pot, and with a kind of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span> -pudding-stick sat down at my cabin door, and as we were -moving along began to stir it. In the course of half an -hour I produced a lump of butter that would have put to -shame seven eighths of the dairy-maids in this country.</p> - -<p>I had long since noticed the great deference shown to the -military in these parts, but I saw it particularly illustrated -by my Cossack, in exerting his authority among the people -at a post-station. He was scolding them for their laziness -in hitching on the horses, and I could hear that he was -making a very great lion of me. “Start quick, you rascals,” -said he, “we have got a great American captain in the boat, -going on government business!” And this seemed to accelerate -everything, even the horses, for they travelled better -after it.</p> - -<p>On the 15th, we passed Witim, which is about 1,400 -versts from Yakutsk. Here the favorable winds, of which -we had availed ourselves for several days past, left us, and -we took, as usual, to horse-power. A short time after, we -came to a station of some ten or twelve houses, where the -inhabitants were in great perturbation on account of the -small-pox, which was raging among them. Some had fled -from the place, and others would have gone had they not -been detained by their families. The disease existed among -them in all its stages, from the symptoms to the full pox. -I had had considerable experience with it, and thought I -might mitigate the suffering by inoculation. They were -all desirous that I should do so, and gathered anxiously -around me. I called for a needle and thread, and selecting -one of the subjects whose pox was ripe, drew the thread -through the pustules until it was saturated with matter. -Then preparing the maggot (as I believe it is called), by -cutting the thread into very short pieces, with my penknife<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span> -I made a little incision in the upper arm, placed in it one -of the maggots and bound it there. I went through this -process on seven or eight, and instructed them how to perform -it; and as to their diet, to eat no fat or salt meat, but -to confine themselves to bread and milk. They were very -grateful for the advice, and for what I had done for them, -and were desirous of manifesting their gratitude in some -more substantial form, but it was declined.</p> - -<p>After passing through an extensive grazing country, interspersed -with large fields of grain, about 300 versts from -Witim we came to rapids, with high precipitous banks on -either side, where the velocity of the current was so great -that we were obliged to hug the shore to avoid it. In some -parts of it we could only get along by sending a small boat -ahead to carry a line to warp by. This was a slow and -laborious operation, and we were heartily rejoiced when -we were through with it. The rapids once passed, the -scenery became as interesting as it had been before, and -the country, if anything, rather more populous and thriving. -We saw, beside farming and grazing, a number of men -engaged in fisheries along the banks of the stream. I could -not see but that there was as great a degree of happiness -here as in any other part of the world. The wants of the -people were abundantly provided for by the produce of the -soil and the river, and beyond this they seemed to have no -desire.</p> - -<p>After passing through some more rapids, where we were -again obliged to cast off our horses and warp the boat, on -the 19th we reached Kirinsk, which is about 1,650 versts -from Yakutsk. From here we went on quickly, owing to -the good path for the horses on the shore, and on the 26th -reached Wercholinsk. This was a considerable town, situated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span> -on the right bank of the Lena; but we pushed by it -without stopping. We now began to be troubled with the -shallowness of the water, but we made out with difficulty -to reach Katschuk, beyond which there was hardly enough -to float a canoe, and we concluded we had reached the head -of navigation. According to agreement I delivered up my -boat here, and took a post-carriage for Irkutsk, where I -arrived on the afternoon of the 28th of August, 1807, and -drove into the court square of the Company’s establishment.</p> - - -<hr class="r20" /> - -<h4>IX.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Irkutsk.—Journey to Tomsk.—New Travelling Companion.—Tobolsk.—Russian -Leave-taking.</p> -</div> - -<p>I presented my letters of introduction from the Chamberlain, -Baron von Resanoff, and was kindly welcomed by -the Superintendent. He invited me to make his house my -home while I remained in the place. I replied that my stay -must be short, and begged him to assist me in procuring -a convenient vehicle for my journey, so that I might not -be obliged to change at every station, as I should if I went -in a public conveyance.</p> - -<p>I discharged my Cossack when I gave up my boat, and -made him a present of fifty rubles, all my cooking utensils, -provisions, and some other articles. He took his leave, with -many thanks and good wishes, which I cordially returned. -I had brought Kutsnetsoff home to his native town, from -which he had been absent ten years. He started off immediately -to find his mother. The next morning he made his -appearance at my room, leading her in. She was a very -dignified-looking elderly lady, dressed in black. As he introduced<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span> -her to me, she dropped upon her knees, and, while -the tears from an overflowing and grateful heart were -coursing down her cheeks, poured out her thanks for the -interest I had taken in the return of her son. It touched -me so deeply, that I could scarcely refrain from tears myself. -It carried my thoughts home to my poor mother, -and I raised her up, and assured her that, if I had done -her son a favor, or brought comfort and consolation to her, -I was amply compensated by the pleasure and satisfaction -the deed itself afforded me. Kutsnetsoff had previously -observed that he should like to go on with me to Moscow -to see his brother, if his mother were willing. When it was -suggested to her, she readily gave her consent, being also -desirous that he should see his brother.</p> - -<p>While we were talking about the matter, who should drive -into the court square but Dr. Langsdorff. I was rejoiced -to see him, but could not account for his being so close upon -my heels. It appeared that he had arrived at Yakutsk -shortly after my departure, and, making but a short stay, -had been pushing on in the small boats, hoping to overtake -and surprise me on the river. He had gained two days on -me, but encountered all kinds of troubles and vexations, -such as leaky boats, drunken boatmen, an inefficient Cossack -guide, the upsetting of the boat, and loss of papers. He -was quite chagrined when I told him that I, by taking a -larger craft under my own control, had avoided all these -difficulties, and had made quite a pleasant excursion of it.</p> - -<p>The Doctor having decided to make a longer stay than -I desired to, that he might visit Kiakta, across the Lake -Baikal, I purchased a vehicle which I thought would answer -my purpose. It was called a <em>pervoshka</em>, and was nothing -more than a box rounded at the bottom, and fixed firmly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[183]</span> -to the axletree without springs. A covered top reached -from the back part nearly to the middle, resembling the -top of a cradle. The forward part of the box was covered -far enough to make a seat for the driver, from which a -boot extended to the cradle-top. On the bottom of this outlandish -concern I must either lie or sit upright throughout -my whole journey. I therefore procured a good substantial -feather-bed and put it in, with which and two or three well-stuffed -pillows, my luggage, and other wadding, I thought -I might get along without much chafing. As this carriage -was only calculated for one person, I took a post-carriage -of much the same construction for Parker and Kutsnetsoff.</p> - -<p>Being now all ready for the road, I decided to stay a day -or two, and look round the place with my friend the Doctor. -I shall not attempt a description of this large, and I might -say handsome town. It is the modern capital of Siberia, -and is situated on the banks of the beautiful river Angara, -which is one of the largest tributaries of the Yenisei. It -was in that day, and I suppose still is, the great commercial -emporium of the eastern part of the empire, whence the -more distant provinces are supplied, and whither are brought -the furs and the products of the fisheries from Kamtchatka, -Ochotsk, and the Aleutian Islands; and through the frontier -town of Kiakta, across Lake Baikal, the teas, nankins, silks, -and other articles which are obtained from the Chinese in -exchange for the sea-otter and sable skins, and find such -a ready market in Russia.</p> - -<p>Having a journey before me of 3,500 miles, and desirous -of reaching St. Petersburg before the close of navigation -in the autumn, I was prepared to travel day and night, and -of course passed many towns and villages without noticing -them, only making short halts for a day or two at some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span> -of the larger or shire-towns to rest. I was provided with -a new <em>deroshner</em>, and a good supply of copper money to pay -for fresh post-horses. On the 31st of August, having -hitched the horses to our vehicles,—that is, one in the -shafts of each, and one on each side,—and having again -taken leave of Doctor Langsdorff and the Company’s Superintendent, -the Yemshik, as the driver is called, mounted his -box, cracked his whip, and away we went, leaving the capital -of Siberia behind us. The post-stations were about 25 -versts, or 15 miles, asunder, and we were well attended at -them. If we desired it, we could obtain something to eat, -and I generally availed myself of the opportunity twice a -day, taking a substantial meal, and topping off with a cup -of tea, preparatory for which we almost always found the -kettle boiling. The Yemshik’s signal for starting was the -crack of his whip, and at that the horses would bound off -at full speed, and he would begin to sing. The song, as -well as the speed, was generally kept up from one station -to another. The music was sometimes quite pleasant and -cheering; the horses, at any rate, seemed to know that it -meant “Go ahead.”</p> - -<p>In this way we continued night and day. On the 6th of -September we passed through Krasnojarsk, where the -Chamberlain Baron von Resanoff had died. We continued -on without stopping, and on the 7th reached the town of -Poim, where I halted a couple of hours to deliver a letter -from the young man Chlabnekoff, whom I took as a passenger -from Kamtchatka to Ochotsk, to his brother. He called -on me, and insisted on my going to his house, if it was only -for an hour. His family wanted to see me. I took Kutsnetsoff -with me, and we gave them all the information we -could about their brother. We found a splendid collation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span> -prepared for us, with Madeira wine such as we do not have -in these days. After concluding the entertainment with a -bottle of champagne, we started off; and whatever the facts -may have been, we certainly felt much lighter than before. -I merely mention this circumstance to show that there was -no lack of “the good stuff” in Siberia. The Maine Law -was not enforced there half a century ago.</p> - -<p>On the 10th I reached the shire-town of Tomsk, and was -constrained to acknowledge myself pretty well used up. I -can assure those who have not made a trial of this mode of -travelling, that to lay on one’s back in a carriage without -any springs, for eight days and nights in succession, is no -joke. When I alighted occasionally my whole frame was -in a perfect tremor, yet the roads were not stony, but tolerably -good. There was no regular hotel in the town, and -so after a little inquiry we drove up to a large log-house, -with a square enclosure in front, the owner of which was -kind enough to entertain us. I immediately set Kutsnetsoff -upon the lookout for a more easy and convenient carriage, -and told him if he should find one to endeavor to dispose -of my old one in part pay. In the mean time, having a -letter from my friend Lieutenant Schwostoff to his uncle, -who was Governor of the place, I waited on him. I was -very cordially received, and invited to dine the next day.</p> - -<p>In a short time Kutsnetsoff succeeded in finding a vehicle -much better than the old one. It was quite a stylish affair, -on springs, and two persons could ride in it conveniently; -but I had to pay as much to boot, perhaps, as both carriages -were worth. I called upon the Company’s agent to furnish -me with 200 rubles, but he had received no particular instructions -to advance me money, and was reluctant to do it. -He was quite reasonable, however, and was willing to listen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span> -to my story. While I was explaining to him who I was, -and why I wanted money, there were several persons standing -by. Among them was a good-looking, well-dressed -man, who spoke up and said he would let me have as large -a sum as I wanted, at which the agent said he was willing -to supply me. After I had finished my business the gentleman -who made the kind offer of his purse informed me -that he himself was going to Moscow, and, if I had no -objections, would like to take a seat in my carriage, and -share the expense. I hardly knew what to answer, and I -scrutinized him very closely. His face wore an honest look, -and he had about his person two conspicuous orders of -merit; so I concluded to accept his proposition. I found -no reason afterwards to regret it. He was a Greek by -birth, and a merchant of high standing. His name was -Dementy Simonitch, and he had done several meritorious -acts, for which he received medals from the Emperor Alexander, -and likewise a present from him of a splendid gold -watch and chain.</p> - -<p>Having arranged this matter, I repaired to the Governor’s -to dine and take leave of him. I found a great -many gentlemen there, but not one who spoke English, -so that I was almost a dummy amongst them. I understood -enough Russ, however, to learn that they were desirous -of inquiring into the nature and organization of our -government. I explained all the prominent points as well -as I could, and they appeared to understand, for they -praised our institutions highly. If I was able, under the -circumstances, to form a correct opinion, there was a good -deal of the spirit of reform among them. After taking -leave of the Governor, I commenced preparations to start -the next morning. As I saw but little of the town, I can<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span> -say but little or nothing of it. It was quite a large place, -the houses nearly all of wood, and the streets broad and -in some places planked in the centre for the convenience -of foot-travel, and yet in others so muddy that there was -no comfort in moving round out of a carriage.</p> - -<p>On the 12th of September I started with my new companion, -and went on at the same breakneck pace as before. -My new coach was far superior to the old one. We could -sit up or lie down as we chose, and were not annoyed by -the intolerable jarring of the body. My companion was -very agreeable, and although he could not speak a word -of English, and my vocabulary of Russ was too limited to -hold a continued, intelligible conversation, we soon became -accustomed to each other’s pantomimic gestures, and got -along quite understandingly. On the 19th we arrived, -without any casualties worthy of remark, at Tobolsk, the -ancient capital of Siberia, and put up, as usual, at a private -house.</p> - -<p>Here my carriage-mate, Dementy, had acquaintances. He -introduced me to the family of Mr. Zelinzoff, or Green, a -highly respectable and wealthy merchant, and the proprietor -of large iron-works at Ekatereinburg. He was himself -absent from home, but, together with Dementy, I was invited -by his son, who officiated as major-domo, to dine with -his family while I remained in the city. I take pleasure -in particularizing in regard to this family, on account of -their marked civility and kindness to a stranger. It consisted -of Madam Zelinzoff, three sons, a daughter, and a -young man named Duro, who was a teacher of French, -and spoke English fluently. They lived in splendid style, -and spread a table for fifteen or twenty persons every day. -Among the numerous invited guests was a French military<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span> -officer in the Russian service, who spoke English well, and -with whom I had a good deal of chat. After dinner the -ladies and gentlemen retired to a large hall, where there -was a billiard-table and a piano, violins and flutes, on which -the amateurs displayed their skill. This was the agreeable -practice daily while I was there.</p> - -<p>Perhaps I may be allowed here to make a few remarks -in regard to the city of Tobolsk, though I cannot give a -minute description of it. It is very singularly divided into -the upper and lower town. The lower town seems to have -been once the bed of the river Irtich, which now, uniting -with the Tobol, runs through the western part of the valley, -leaving both the upper and lower town on the eastern side, -but divided distinctly by a steep bank, which was probably -in former days the margin of the stream. The lower town -is sometimes, though rarely, inundated; and on the other -hand the upper town is inconvenienced by a want of water. -Taking both sections together they formed a very large -place, with a numerous and mixed population of Tartars, -Bucharians, and Kalmucks. The public buildings were -mostly of stone, but the private houses, with few exceptions, -of wood. It was the great mart of trade with the -eastern part of the Empire, and all the caravans from China -and the distant provinces concentrated here.</p> - -<p>This place had formerly been the Botany Bay, or penal -settlement, of the Russians, and from the descendants of -convicts a great and flourishing city had sprung up, with -its wealthy merchants, thrifty traders, and literary and -scientific men. The German and French languages were -taught and spoken by all the better classes. All kinds of -provisions were so cheap, that the poorest inhabitant never -need suffer for food; and I could see here, as throughout<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span> -Siberia, the kindliest feelings manifested toward the lower -orders of society.</p> - -<p>Having remained at Tobolsk six days, we prepared to -continue our journey. Two of the young Mr. Zelinzoffs -were to accompany us as far as their father’s estate, at -Ekatereinburg. Accordingly, after dining and making some -preliminary arrangements for departure, the whole family, -with their guests, assembled in the large room for a little -chat and to take leave. Now this leave-taking was a somewhat -formal piece of business, and I had misgivings as to -how I should acquit myself with becoming gallantry. The -custom with the gentlemen was for each to lay the right -hand on the other’s back, and to kiss each other on both -cheeks;<a id="FNanchor_36" href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> not unfrequently the noses came in rude collision. -A lady presents you the back of the hand to kiss, and at -the same time she kisses you on the cheek. Being all ready -for action, the ladies and gentlemen placed themselves in -a row round the room, and then the performance was commenced -by the two sons who were going with us, and continued -by my friend Dementy. By this time the perspiration -had begun to start upon my forehead; but I saw it was -of no use to be lagging, and so, summoning all my courage, -I turned to, and went through the ceremony like a veteran -courtier. The last of the ladies I came to was the daughter, -a great beauty, and I was greatly tempted, in violation of -Russian etiquette, to kiss her cheek, but I managed to restrain -myself.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span></p> - - -<hr class="r20" /> - -<h4>X.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>Flying Ferry-Boat.—Ekatereinburg.—Kazan.—A Dinner-Party.—Moscow.—St. -Petersburg.—Good News.</p> -</div> - -<p>After the ceremony described in the last chapter, we -took to our carriages and proceeded to the ferry which -crosses the Irtich, where we found what was called a flying -ferry-boat, of sufficient size to transport several teams at -once.<a id="FNanchor_37" href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> The hull of the craft did not swim deep in the -water, but was furnished with a very deep keel along its -whole length. It had a short mast, placed about as far -forward as in sloops, and supported by shrouds. Now an -anchor was sunk in the centre of the river some distance -above, and from the anchor a rope, sustained on the surface -by buoys, was extended and fastened to the bow of the boat. -By means of a block and pulley this rope could be elevated -about half the distance to the mast-head. When ready for -starting, the bow, which was always pointed directly up -stream at the landing-place, was pushed off a little, so that -the current might strike the keel at an angle. This position -was maintained by the use of the rudder; and as the boat -could not drift down the river, on account of the anchor -to which it was attached, it was driven sideways to the -opposite shore. By this ingenious contrivance passengers -and freight were carried across without the least trouble -or labor.</p> - -<p>On the 24th we arrived at Ekatereinburg. During our -stay here of one night, our young friends showed us about -the iron-works, and we saw all the operations, from smelting -the ore to working it up into bar-iron. Gold ore was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span> -dug here by the government, and the pure metal extracted -by pulverizing, and washing it on an inclined plane covered -with ridges, which stopped the gold, while the lighter substances -were carried off with the water. It did not appear -to be a very money-making process. The next day we took -leave of our young friends, and pursued our journey westward -to Kazan, on the river Volga, which we reached on -the 30th. Here my carriage-mate, Dementy, was quite at -home again, and we concluded to halt for a couple of days. -The city was large and well built, and the most important -place in the eastern part of Russia proper.</p> - -<p>I had for some time experienced the good effects of -Dementy’s badge of distinction, but it did us especial service -here. It procured us an invitation to dine with the military -Governor, who was himself of Greek extraction, and somewhat -acquainted with my friend. I had no great desire to -go among great folks, as my wardrobe was scanty, and the -few clothes I possessed had grown pretty threadbare with -the wear and tear of my three years’ cruise. I wished to -decline, but Dementy said it would give offence. He had -probably given an account of my adventures, and of my -negotiation with the Chamberlain, Baron von Resanoff; and -this, together with the mark of the Emperor’s approbation -which he himself wore, had brought us into notice.</p> - -<p>At the proper time the military carriage of the Governor -came for us, and away we went in fine style. We found -a great number of persons assembled at his house, including -officers, military and civil, and many ladies. I was introduced -as an American captain. I felt a little uncomfortable -lest I should be questioned with regard to my official grade, -as it might not have been good policy to have explained -my claim to a captaincy. It was a splendid entertainment,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span> -however, and, as I could not converse very intelligibly, I -had little else to do than ply the knife and fork, while -Dementy, who had somehow picked up all the particulars -about me and my business, gave them my whole story, much -to my satisfaction. After dinner we retired to another -room, where coffee was served. The ladies questioned me -about our country, and to show that they had some knowledge -of American history, they spoke of Washington and -Franklin in high terms. We conversed upon the subject -until I had exhausted my whole stock of Russ in eulogizing -those men.</p> - -<p>October 2d, we started on our route for Moscow, our -next stopping-place. We met with nothing remarkable excepting -muddy roads and frequent altercations at the post-stations. -There was evidently less respect paid to my -friend’s decorations, and less alacrity in attending to us. -We, however, reached the great city of Moscow on the 8th, -and passed within the first circle, which is called the Zemlänoigorod. -We wound along through the streets, as it -seemed to me, for miles. At last Dementy pointed out a -public house, where we stopped awhile to brush up and make -ourselves look respectable,—after which Dementy left us. -Kutsnetsoff sought at once the whereabouts of the Company’s -establishment, and we started again, passed through -the Bale gate into the circle of that name, and drove to -the Company’s house. I entered the spacious stone building -with Kutsnetsoff, and met his brother, the Superintendent, -on the great landing-stair. He was a splendid-looking man. -After the brothers had embraced each other, and while tears -were rolling down their cheeks, I was introduced. I was -cordially welcomed, and led into a large hall, where I was -presented to the Superintendent’s lady, and Kutsnetsoff to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[193]</span> -a sister he had never seen before. She was a very handsome -woman, and richly dressed in the latest French style.</p> - -<p>After exchanging mutual inquiries, I was told by the -Superintendent that his house must be my home while I -remained in the city. I replied that I was desirous of reaching -St. Petersburg before the close of navigation, and consequently -my stay must be short. They concluded that I -could well spare a week. In that time I thought I could -replenish my wardrobe with the latest European fashions, -and at my request, a draper was sent for; he took my dimensions, -and I was soon fitted out completely. My -Kamtchatka sable-skins were converted into a lining for a -great coat,—as something of that kind had now become -necessary,—and they made a splendid article.</p> - -<p>In the mean time, having leisure, I availed myself of the -politeness of a young gentleman of the house, who offered -to go round with me and show me the city. I made no note -of what I saw at the time, and since then half a century -has rolled by. I can only recall some of the leading features -of the great metropolis, which may be interesting, as the -date of my visit was but a few years before the conflagration -which drove Napoleon from the country. The city -is situated on an elevation which in shape resembles a turtle’s -back. The river Moskva sweeps round nearly two -thirds of it, and the land rises gently from the margin to -the centre, which is so high as to command a splendid -panoramic view of its whole extent. The city was divided -into four departments or circles. The first, the Kremlin, -situated on the crown of this eminence and enclosed with -heavy ramparts of stone, formed a sort of fortress of very -ample extent. It embraced within its walls magnificent -cathedrals, palaces, and public buildings, all gorgeously decorated.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span> -Here also was the great bell, which stands on the -ground, with a triangular piece broken out of the rim. Its -weight is said to be four hundred thousand pounds.<a id="FNanchor_38" href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> The -next circle was the Kitaigorod, or Chinese Town, also containing -several cathedrals, convents, parish churches, and -many noblemen’s houses, interspersed with mean-looking -wooden buildings. The third circle, which surrounded the -former, was the Beloigorod, or White Town, and had a -white wall. This was the business part of the city, and -the streets, though mostly paved, were muddy and filthy. -There were here, however, many public edifices, and handsome -private houses, the residences of the merchants and -traders. The fourth circle, called Zemlänoigorod, or Land -Town, was surrounded with an earthen embankment, and -enclosed an area of nearly ten miles. In this as in the other -circles, there was a great diversity in the cost of the different -structures, the very extremes of magnificence and meanness -being mingled together promiscuously. I was very -much impressed with the grandeur and beauty of the whole -city; spread over more than twenty square miles of ground, -adorned with a countless number of costly and elegant -buildings, with thousands of spires and cupolas covered -with silver and gold, when viewed from the Kremlin it -afforded one of the most pleasing spectacles I ever gazed -upon.<a id="FNanchor_39" href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a></p> - -<p>I was loath to leave when the time allotted for my stay -had expired, but there was no help for it. So, equipped in -the fashionable rig with which the draper furnished me, -I turned my face toward St. Petersburg. The Superintendent -was kind enough to propose that Kutsnetsoff should<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span> -accompany me to my journey’s end, which proposal I gladly -accepted. On the morning of the 17th, I took leave of the -good friends who had shown me so much kindness, and -stepped into my carriage, rode through the suburbs, and -at noon emerged into the open country. We passed many -villages and large towns, but continued on without stopping -at any of them except to take our meals.</p> - -<p>On the 21st of October, 1807, we reached the gates of -St. Petersburg, and, after going through a thorough examination -of passports, were permitted to go on. We drove -at once to the Company’s establishment, where I was kindly -received and entertained by Mr. Booldakoff, the first director -of the Russian American Company. It was evening when -I arrived, and as neither Mr. B. nor any one in the house -could speak English, I remained partially ignorant of the -business which most interested me until the next morning. -A gentleman then came in who accosted me in good round -English, and I was quite overjoyed at the sound. This was -Mr. Benedict Cramer, a gentleman with whom I became -very intimate in business afterwards. He was the senior -partner of the house of Cramer, Smith, & Co., and was also -one of the directors of the Company.</p> - -<p>He soon threw light upon my whole business by saying -that his partner, Mr. Smith, was in the United States, and -had seen my owners and assured them that the bills of -exchange, the duplicates of which had reached them through -the hands of Mr. Moorfield, were good. Mr. Moorfield -had been out with a ship in the course of the season, the -bills had been accepted and paid with fifteen per cent advance, -because Spanish dollars, in which they were payable, -commanded that premium. The proceeds had been invested -in hemp, iron, and manufactures and sent to America; and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span> -the business had been transacted through his house. “You -have now nothing to do,” he concluded, “but to take all -the pleasure you can while you remain with us.” I shook -him heartily by the hand, and made him a low bow; after -which we walked out together to his place of business. He -introduced me to his brother and Mr. L. Harris, the American -Consul, who was connected with his firm; and in the -same way I became acquainted with a number of influential -gentlemen, from whom I received many civilities.</p> - -<p>Mr. Booldakoff, whose house I made my home, showed -me every attention. He took me in his carriage to all the -places of note in the city, and had an audience with the -Count Ramansoff, the Prime Minister, to whom I was presented. -In short, every mark of respect that could be accorded -to a stranger was shown me.</p> - - -<hr class="r20" /> - -<h4>XI.</h4> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>I sail down the Baltic in a Dutch Galiot.—Take Passage at Elsinore -in the Mary for Portland.—Put in at Liverpool.—Home again.—Conclusion.</p> -</div> - -<p>Things went on so smoothly and pleasantly at St. Petersburg -that I took no note of time. Six days had already -slipped by before I began to think of making a further -move. There were no American ships at Cronstadt when -I arrived, but I was told that there were always opportunities -till the last of November to obtain a passage to -England, so that I felt quite easy. Just as I commenced -preparations for starting, however, war was declared between -Russia and England, and all foreign ships left -Cronstadt. I now thought it doubtful whether I could obtain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span> -a passage to England, but I made all haste for the -port, to make a trial, at least. Mr. Booldakoff gave me -a letter to the harbor-master, the Consul one to his Vice, -the Messrs. Cramer one to Messrs. Belfour, Ellah, & Co., -at Elsinore. With these I took leave of my St. Petersburg -friends, and started; but when I arrived at the Mole I was -quite discouraged to find that there was not a merchant-vessel -in sight. I called on the Vice-Consul, but he knew -of no way to help me. Though thinking it would be useless, -I determined to present my letter to the harbor-master. -He read it, and after a little reflection, and a number of -questions about my journey, said that I had better go down -to the Mole head with him, and see what could be done.</p> - -<p>We found, on inquiry, that there was one solitary vessel, -a small galiot, lying at anchor below the Tolbeacon, about -three miles off. She was bound for London, and he thought -I could get a passage in her, if I were willing to try; at -the same time he offered to send me aboard. I jumped at -the proposition, and told Parker to get our goods and chattels -into the boat as soon as possible. Thanking the harbor-master -for his assistance, I started off for the galiot. She -was a small craft, of seventy or eighty tons burden, loaded -with tallow. The skipper was a little old Dutchman, short -of five feet in height, and a mate and cook composed his -crew. I asked him if he would take me as passenger to -London. “Yaw,” says he. “And will you let my man work -his passage?” “Yaw, goot,” says he. I paid the officer -of the boat for his trouble, and he left us. Being now at -leisure, I began to look round to see what kind of a ship -and accommodations we had got. She was rather a flat-bottomed -vessel, carrying lee-boards, to keep her from drifting -to the leeward when sailing by the wind. I questioned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span> -the skipper about the provisions, and he believed that there -were enough, such as they were. The cabin was a trunk, -so called, above the deck, abaft the mainmast, in which -there were two boxes with slide-doors. One was his berth, -and the other the mate’s. He informed me that I must -sleep with him, and my man must turn in and out with -the mate. I thought this a fair arrangement, and so we -settled it.</p> - -<p>It was morning when I went on board; and after dinner, -which consisted of beans and buckwheat pudding, we got -under way. The wind was light but favorable, so that we -crept along down the Gulf at about the same rate we used -to go in our little Russian vessel. The weather was moderate -and the sea smooth, and after so much land-travel -I enjoyed the change very much. We continued to grope -along until we reached the island of Bornholm, in the Baltic. -Here we took a westerly gale, which would have put a stop -to our progress if we had not fortunately got under the -lee of the island, and continued sailing from one end to the -other of it for two days, when the gale abated, and the wind -changed. This enabled us to continue on our course, so -that on the 13th of November we reached Elsinore. Here -I presented my letters from the Messrs. Cramer, and was -kindly received by Messrs. Belfour, Ellah, & Co.</p> - -<p>Though the galiot was detained by contrary winds, as -long as there was no alternative, I concluded to stick by -her; but on the second day I was standing on the pier and -looking up the sound towards Copenhagen, when I saw -a ship coming down with a large American ensign flying, -at the sight of which my heart leaped right up into my -throat. I waited until she came to anchor, and then called -a shore-boat and went off to her. She proved to be the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span> -Mary of Portland, Captain David Gray, and was homeward -bound. This was joyful news, and affected me so -deeply that I could hardly tell the Captain my story. At -last, after making known who I was, and from whence I -came, I asked him if he would take me as passenger, and -he readily consented. I went immediately to the galiot to -settle with the little Dutch skipper. To the question, how -much was I to pay him, he answered that he only wanted -“Was billig ist, das ist mir recht.” Not knowing exactly -what that was, I tendered him twenty Spanish dollars, with -which he was well satisfied, and made him a bonus of a -pair of leather breeches, which he had worn ever since we -left Cronstadt. Wishing him a prosperous voyage, I took -my leave and my baggage and went on board the Mary. -She was a fine ship, in ballast, and had a splendid cabin -for the times. The captain was a social, clever fellow, and -we soon became well acquainted. We left Elsinore on the -20th, and proceeded down the Kattegat. When we got -down as far as Gottenburg, we found the wind blowing -in heavily through the Sleeve, which obliged the pilot to -put into Marstrand, a small port in Sweden. Here we lay -two days.</p> - -<p>On the 24th, we put to sea again. We passed the Naze -of Norway, and steered for the Orkney Islands; but, owing -to adverse winds and stormy weather, it was the 2d of -December before we got through the Fair Isle Passage. -We then encountered a series of westerly gales, in the course -of which it was discovered that one of the ship’s rudder-braces -had worked loose. It was deemed unsafe to pursue -our course across the Atlantic, and Captain Gray accordingly -altered his course for Liverpool, where we arrived on -the 15th. This was a great disappointment to me, particularly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span> -as my pecuniary resources were exhausted, and -I saw before me unavoidable expenses; at the same time, -I had no relish for the storms of a northern passage and -a winter’s coast. I reconciled myself, however, with the -prospect of seeing England; and as Captain Gray offered -to supply me with money until I reached Portland, I was -quite content. I went with him to a boarding-house, where -we remained while the ship was undergoing repairs. In -the mean time, I made myself acquainted with the city and -its environs. At the end of two months the Mary was -ready for sea again, and having taken on board a quantity -of salt, we sailed on the 7th of February. We had a pleasant -voyage, and arrived at Portland on the 25th of March. -Here I settled with the Captain, to whom I was indebted -for my passage, board, and sundry loans, the whole amounting -to the sum of two hundred and fifty dollars. I gave -him a draft on Mr. John Park, of Boston, and it proved -quite fortunate for him that I did so. His owners had -failed just before our arrival, and, as they were indebted -to him, he would have been a loser but for this draft.</p> - -<p>You may suppose that I started with as little delay as -possible for Bristol. I arrived there on the 1st of April, -1808, and thus terminated an absence of three years and -eight months. In two years and six months from the time -of my departure, the owners were in receipt of the proceeds -of the voyage, which resulted in a clear profit of <span class="allsmcap">ONE HUNDRED -THOUSAND DOLLARS</span>.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>I have now reached the end of my story; but before I lay -down my pen, let me say a word more of the friends mentioned -in the preceding pages. I continued in the Russian -trade, in which I had made so successful a beginning, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span> -returned to St. Petersburg in 1809. It so happened that -I found Dr. Langsdorff and Lieutenants Schwostoff and -Davidoff there. The latter two gentlemen, since we last -met, had been engaged in the war with Sweden, and had -become honorably distinguished. While I was visiting the -Doctor, they came over to pass an evening with us, and -we sat talking of old times until two in the morning. They -then started for their own lodgings, which were on the -other side of the river. Langsdorff and myself accompanied -them to the drawbridge, which was open for ships -to pass in the night. Our friends, therefore, passed over -a plank which lay from the bridge to a vessel in the river -and regained the other side of the bridge by another plank, -calling to us and wishing us good-night, when they were -safe over, and we then went back to our quarters. The -next morning we received the melancholy intelligence that -two naval officers had been drowned in the Neva during -the night, and, upon further inquiry, we learned that they -were our friends. After we had parted from them, they -became desirous, God knows for what purpose, to return -to us again, and, in order to get over quicker, they attempted -to spring from the bridge upon a bark that was -going through. They mistook a sail for the deck of the -vessel, and both fell into the water. The people in the -bark endeavored to rescue them, but the night was so dark, -and the current so strong, that they went under before they -received any assistance. Though fifty years have gone by -since the death of these young men, I cannot forbear to recall -their many virtues and lament their untimely end.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"></div> -<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="margtop1">FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23" class="label">[23]</a> Perry’s “History of the De Wolf Family,” p. 50.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24" class="label">[24]</a> Three months before this vessel had brought into Bristol the first -cargo received from a Chinese port.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25" class="label">[25]</a> Ever since Captain Robert Gray of Tiverton, R. I., master of the -ship Columbia of Boston, had, in 1792, sailed his vessel into the great -river to which he gave the name of his ship, the trade of the northwest -coast had been almost entirely in the hands of Boston merchants. -The natives called all traders “Boston Men.” So, in the days of the -Crusades, the Saracens called all Crusaders “Franks” because of the -overwhelming predominance of the French nation. The Crusades -were the “<span lang="la" xml:lang="la">Gesta Dei per Francos</span>.” Captain Gray’s act laid the foundation -for the American title to Oregon.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26" class="label">[26]</a> Cooper seized upon this well known fact for some striking passages -in his novel “Afloat and Ashore.”—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_27" href="#FNanchor_27" class="label">[27]</a> Duffel, a coarse woollen cloth named from the town near Antwerp -in which it was manufactured.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_28" href="#FNanchor_28" class="label">[28]</a> Leather canoes. They consist of a skeleton of wood, over which -is stretched a covering made of the skins of sea-lions. They are long -and narrow, and hold from one to three persons. Each person sits -in a round hole just fitted to the size of the body.—[Author’s note.]</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_29" href="#FNanchor_29" class="label">[29]</a> George von Langsdorff was born in Heidelberg in the Grand Duchy -of Baden in 1774, his father being at that time Chancellor of the University -of Heidelberg. Having taken the degree of Doctor of Medicine -at the University of Göttingen, he shortly afterward went with -Prince Waldeck to Lisbon as his physician. On the death of the -Prince he returned by way of England to his home. At the age of -thirty he accompanied Admiral Krusenstern, as botanist, on a voyage -around the world. Emperor Alexander I of Russia made him a -Knight of the Order of St. Anne with the rank of Aulic Councillor, -and also made him a Baron. Later he appointed him Consul General -at the port of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, a post which he held with honor -for many years. He died at Freiburg, Baden, in 1852, in the seventy-eighth -year of his age. Besides other volumes he published an account -of his trip around the world under the title “Bemerkungen auf -einer Reise um die Welt in den Jahren 1803 bis 1807 von Copenhagen -nach Brasilien, der Sudsee, Kamtschatka, und Japan.” The second -volume treats of his journey “Von Kamtschatka nach der Insel St. -Paul, Unalaska, Kodiak, Sitcha, Neu Albion, Kamtschatka, Ochotsk -und durch Sibirien nach St. Petersburg.” Captain DeWolf must have -had a translation of this volume at hand when he wrote his own story. -The German naturalist and the American sea captain were evidently -“two of a kind.” How highly the American esteemed his friend may -be judged from the fact that he named his only son John Langsdorff. -The boy was always called Langsdorff.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_30" href="#FNanchor_30" class="label">[30]</a> In the Russian Church all the priests are called Popes, <em>i.e.</em>, Fathers, -Papa = Father. So in the Latin Church all priests were Popes until -the supremacy of the Pope of Rome was established. Cf. the development -of the English “Parson.”—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_31" href="#FNanchor_31" class="label">[31]</a> Dr. Langsdorff in his “Reise” devotes much space to the treatment -of the Arctic dogs.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_32" href="#FNanchor_32" class="label">[32]</a> Even in the great Cathedral of Kazan, in Petrograd, the arrangements -for a christening seem, to a foreigner, somewhat primitive. -There not a tub is used for the immersion but an iron basin supported -upon a tripod. Captain De Wolf had forgotten many features of the -beautiful ceremony.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_33" href="#FNanchor_33" class="label">[33]</a> Dr. Langsdorff’s account of this incident shows Captain De Wolf’s -character in a very beautiful light: “I cannot pass over in silence an -affecting scene which occurred just before his departure. The three -Aleutians whom I have frequently spoken of as serving as sailors on -our ship, came to Captain De Wolf, and, with tears running down -their cheeks, threw themselves at his feet and begged him to take -them with him to his native land. ‘We will serve you without pay. -We will ask only for a little bread and fish. We will follow your -horses, even though we must go on foot a great part of the way. We -would rather go with you than return to our own country.’ Mr. De -Wolf was greatly troubled because he could not grant their request.” -Langsdorff, Reise, vol. 2, page 292.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_34" href="#FNanchor_34" class="label">[34]</a> A verst is 212⅕ rods, or, roughly, five eighths of a mile.—[Author’s -note.]</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_35" href="#FNanchor_35" class="label">[35]</a> It will be noted that Captain De Wolf nowhere speaks of vodka.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_36" href="#FNanchor_36" class="label">[36]</a> Our traveller was as much impressed with this habit of kissing as -was Erasmus on his first landing in England. The Dutch scholar was -pleased with the English fashion, which is, on the whole, far superior -to the Russian style.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_37" href="#FNanchor_37" class="label">[37]</a> Flying ferry boats not unlike these may be seen on some California -rivers today.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_38" href="#FNanchor_38" class="label">[38]</a> At least 448,000 pounds.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_39" href="#FNanchor_39" class="label">[39]</a> This was five years before the burning of Moscow in the Napoleonic -War.—<em>Ed.</em></p> - -</div> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span><br /> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="p4 nobreak" id="PART_III">PART III<br /> -<br /> -JAMES DE WOLF AND THE PRIVATEER YANKEE</h2> -</div> - -<hr class="p6 chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span><br /> - <span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[205]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h3>1—JAMES DE WOLF</h3> -</div> - -<p>The story of the life of James De Wolf reads like a -chapter of wild romance. Without any advantages of birth, -fortune or education his indomitable energy and his commanding -abilities won for him a seat in the greatest deliberative -assembly in the world, the Senate of the United -States, and also secured for him one of the largest fortunes -in America.</p> - -<p>He was born in Bristol, March 18, 1764, the seventh -son of Mark Anthony De Wolf, clerk of the Prince Charles -of Lorraine, whose raid upon the coast of French Guiana -under the leadership of Simeon Potter has already been -set forth in this book. He was born of American parents -upon the French island of Guadaloupe. The sudden fancy -of Captain Potter rescued him from a possible life of obscurity -upon that island that his children might rise to -influence and power and wealth in America.</p> - -<p>Mark Anthony De Wolf married a sister of Potter and -became master of one of his brother-in-law’s vessels. More -than a very moderate income he never enjoyed, and his -sons were compelled to earn their own living at an early -age. Following the natural trend of Bristol boys of that -period they took up their father’s calling. All who reached -manhood became shipmasters, and nearly all of them attained -large riches. One of James De Wolf’s descendants, -the Rev. C. B. Perry, tells in his book “The De Wolfs” -this story of his ancestor’s entrance upon a seafaring -life: “Several of them [the De Wolf boys] who had been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span> -sweating in the corn rows one summer day flung down -their hoes, declaring they would no longer hoe corn when -they knew they could get places on their Uncle Sim Potter’s -privateer about to sail from Providence. So off they -trudged upon the road to that city. As after their long -dusty walk they emerged from Seekonk Woods near the -old ‘Red Bridge,’ James, the youngest but one of the party, -becoming conscious of the dilapidated condition of his hat, -and with the vanity of a handsome lad less resigned than -his father to his appearance, cried out, ‘Boys, I’m not going -through Providence like this,’ and flung the crownless brim—or -was it a brimless crown?—into the wayside bushes. -Bareheaded he presented himself with his brothers to his -no doubt astonished yet sympathetic, bluff old Uncle Sim -Potter. They secured the coveted places on the ship and -thus began that life of devotion to the sea which the sea -was soon so richly to repay.”</p> - -<p>Twice in his early seafaring life James De Wolf was -captured; for many weeks he was held a prisoner on the -Bermuda Islands. His zeal and ability speedily won for -him promotion. Having entered the employ of John Brown, -the leading ship owner of Providence, he was made master -of a vessel before he had completed his twentieth year. -His earliest voyages as captain were made to the coast of -Africa as master of a small slaver. No stigma whatever -was attached to the slave trade at that time. It was regarded -as a perfectly legitimate business and was known -to be more than ordinarily hazardous because of climatic -conditions and the dangerous nature of the coast. The -captains engaged in it had to be men of unusual force of -character in order to be successful. Before he was twenty-five -years old De Wolf had accumulated a fortune large<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span> -enough to keep him in ease and even luxury for the remainder -of his life. But he could not be idle. He was -continually branching out into new ventures in which he -was almost invariably successful. Everything seemed to -turn to gold in his hands. His aim was always to be first -in a new field. After he had skimmed the cream from a -market he was content to leave for those who followed him -the moderate, though perhaps surer gains.</p> - -<p>As long as the slave trade remained legal he continued -in it, not infrequently going to the southern ports to supervise -the sale of his cargoes. This was the case in 1804 -when the Legislature of South Carolina opened the ports -of that State for the importation of African slaves. One -day one of his townsmen, a sailor on a new arrival from -the African coast, was walking along the principal street -of Charleston, in charge of a party of slave girls that had -just been sold, each dusky maiden being picturesquely -though not sumptuously attired in a short cotton chemise. -As he was passing the leading hotel, he heard a well known -voice call out: “Benjamin! Benjamin! Where are you -going with those girls?” and down from the veranda came -“Captain Jim” to greet his fellow Bristolian and to talk -over his voyage with him. During the four years that followed -two hundred and two vessels, carrying nearly forty -thousand slaves, entered the port of Charleston.</p> - -<p>Sixteen years afterward Mr. De Wolf was elected a -member of the United States Senate, where his large business -experience and his special knowledge of industrial and -commercial conditions gave him great influence. Like most -of the Senators from the Northern States he opposed the -admission of Missouri as a slave State. Public opinion in -the North concerning slavery had greatly changed since<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span> -1808. In that year the African slave trade was prohibited -by law, and very soon after all the leading nations of the -world united in efforts to suppress it. But because it immediately -became more profitable than ever before, men -still continued to engage in it. Then came the “horrors of -the Middle Passage” (i.e., the voyage from Africa to the -West Indies) at which all the world shuddered. Those -who had engaged in the earlier trade were covered with -an obloquy which they did not deserve.</p> - -<p>Public opinion concerning slavery as practiced in the -South also changed, but not so quickly in South Carolina, -the leading slave State, as elsewhere. There the planters -who formed the governing class had only come to draw a -distinction between the men who brought the slaves from -Africa and the men who used them after they were landed -in America. Even today, in the North as well as the South, -the same subtle distinction is drawn. The fact that the -men who brought slaves faced innumerable dangers in their -voyages counted for nothing in the judgment of those who, -in ease and safety, enjoyed the fruits of slave labor. Senator -Smith of South Carolina was the exponent of the -Southern idea. In an impassioned speech he reflected severely -upon the bitterness the people of Rhode Island had -lately shown against slaveholders, and especially against the -admission of Missouri as a slave State. “This, however, -he believed could not be the temper or opinion of the majority, -from the late election of James De Wolf as a member -of the Senate, as he had accumulated an immense -fortune by the slave trade.” He went on to say that, of -the two hundred and two vessels whose names he gave, -“ten and their African cargoes belonged to Mr. De Wolf,” -and he closed his speech with a recapitulation tabulating -the facts given in the following paragraph:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span></p> - -<p>From January 1, 1804, to December 31, 1807, inclusive, -two hundred and two slave ships entered the port of Charleston. -Seventy of these vessels were owned in Great Britain, -three in France, one in Sweden, sixty-one in Charleston, -fifty-nine in Rhode Island and eight in other American -ports. Of the two hundred and two consignees ninety-one -were natives of Great Britain, eighty-eight of Rhode Island, -thirteen of Charleston and ten of France. Altogether, -39,075 slaves were brought in. More than half of them, -19,949, came under the British flag. French ships brought -1,078. The fifty-nine vessels hailing from Rhode Island -brought in 8,238, as follows: Bristol ships, 3,914, Newport -3,488, Providence 556, Warren 280. As is evident -from the cargoes the American vessels engaged in the trade -were much smaller than the foreign craft. The seventy -British slavers averaged almost two hundred and eighty-five -slaves each. The French average was three hundred and -fifty-nine plus, while the fifty-nine Rhode Islanders averaged -not quite one hundred thirty-nine and a half. The foreign -vessels were probably full rigged ships, while the Narragansett -Bay craft were for the most part brigs and schooners -of two hundred tons or less. Even so they were larger -than the Newport slavers captured by the enemy in the early -years of the “Old French and Indian War,” a part of the -Seven Years War in Europe, 1756-1763. Those vessels -had “live cargoes” varying from forty-three to one hundred -and thirty head. The Caesar of Newport, a full -rigged ship, carried only one hundred and sixteen. Of the -vessels mentioned in these Tales the Yankee’s tonnage was -one hundred and sixty tons. The Juno was a full rigged -ship of two hundred and fifty tons, one of the finest vessels -sailing from Bristol in her time. The cargo of twenty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span> -Junos could easily be stowed in the holds of one of the -five masted schooners that bring coal into the port of -Providence today. The tonnage of the Prince Charles of -Lorraine is not known.</p> - -<p>Study of the statistical tables on which Senator Smith -based his remarks<a id="FNanchor_40" href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> shows that Mr. De Wolf was interested -in four other Rhode Island ships besides the ten credited -to him by the Senator from South Carolina. These hailed -from Rhode Island and were consigned to Christian & De -Wolf. He may also have been the owner of three other -Rhode Islanders which on their first voyage were not consigned -to him. The statistics show that the voyage to Africa -and return must ordinarily have taken more than a year. -During the year 1804 but three Rhode Island slave ships entered -the port of Charleston, and the total number of slavers -was twenty, of which seven hailed from Charleston itself. -The next year the number of arrivals had increased to -thirty, six of which were owned in Rhode Island and five -in South Carolina. In 1806 the number of arrivals was -fifty-six, thirteen being Rhode Island vessels, and the same -number hailing from Charleston. In the last open year, -1807, the arrivals leaped to ninety-six, thirty-seven of them -belonging in Rhode Island and thirty-three in South Carolina. -Of the Rhode Island vessels, two, the Neptune and -the Hiram, made three round trips each, while ten others -brought in two cargoes. Two of the sixty-one Charleston -ships made three voyages, and five accomplished two. Nine -of the vessels of Great Britain made two voyages each; -no British vessel made three. The four big Frenchmen -entered the harbor but once. Apparently small, swift ships -were more profitable than large ones. Necessarily a large<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span> -part of the trip was consumed in securing a cargo, and the -dangers of the “coast fever” were greatest in the case of -a large ship.</p> - -<p>The African trade was but one of the commercial avenues -in which Mr. De Wolf’s ships sailed. His larger vessels -had already visited Chinese ports when the smaller craft -turned their prows toward Africa. While the little Hiram -was gathering cargoes of naked negroes, the full rigged -ship Juno was filling its hold with the furs of the frozen -“Northwest Coast.” How exceedingly profitable that venture -was we have already learned from the account of -“Norwest John.” Until the year 1812 the chief obstacle -to the development of American commerce was the constant -interference of British warships and their illegal impressment -of American sailors on the pretence that the men -impressed were not Americans but Englishmen, and therefore -subject to the British Crown. As a large ship owner -Mr. De Wolf had suffered great losses. Of these he had -kept a careful account and he longed for the day of retaliation -to come. To most of the New Englanders of that day -the act passed on June 18, 1812, declaring war between the -United States and the United Kingdom of Great Britain -and Ireland seemed the death blow to their commercial -prosperity. Not so did it seem to James De Wolf. He -saw in it the opportunity to regain from captured merchantmen -all that he had lost at the hands of British men-of-war. -Not for personal reasons alone did he rejoice at the commencement -of hostilities. He believed that the interests -of the whole country demanded it; all his sympathies were -enlisted in it; all his resources he confidently staked upon -the final issue of the struggle. He caused the banks in -which he owned a controlling interest to invest all their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span> -available capital in United States bonds, and when the -national credit was lowest he advanced from his own purse -money to build a sloop of war.<a id="FNanchor_41" href="#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> Mr. De Wolf early grasped -the fact that the only vulnerable part of Great Britain, as -far as the United States was concerned, was its merchant -marine. He foresaw that the American privateers would -drive the English commerce from the ocean and he at once -proceeded to perform his part in accomplishing that result. -Not the United States war vessels, marvellous though their -achievements were, but the privateers that sailed out from -Bristol and Baltimore and many ports of New England, -brought the War of 1812 to an end.</p> - -<p>Besides the Yankee Mr. De Wolf was the principal owner -of three other privateers, the Water Witch, the Blockade -and the Macdonough. The Water Witch was the only -one of these to send a prize into Bristol harbor. She was -a little coasting schooner of more than ordinary speed. -Her owners procured for her a privateer’s license that she -might seize the slower craft that furnished the British fleet -with supplies. Her one prize was a flour laden schooner -which netted a profit to its owners of about $5,000, a sum<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span> -which paid for the Water Witch several times over. The -Blockade sailed from Bristol on a four months cruise -November 19, 1812. It had been planned that she should -sail in company with the Yankee but that little hermaphrodite -brig<a id="FNanchor_42" href="#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> was too fast for her. She took a dozen or more -vessels, but all her prizes were recaptured and she proved -to be only a bill of expense to her owners. From the Macdonough -great things were hoped. She was much the -largest and fastest of the Bristol ships but she entered the -contest too late. She found an ocean swarming with the -sails of warships when she sailed out from Narragansett -Bay. Her wonderful speed prevented her capture and she -was able to take many prizes but all her prizes were retaken. -Oliver Wilson, successful captain of the Yankee<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span> -on two of her cruises, was her commander on her one -cruise, so it goes without saying that she was well handled, -but she proved to be a losing investment. She was built -by Captain Carr at Warren in the last year of the war, and -after the struggle was ended was placed in the Cuban trade. -Once she made the voyage from Havana to Bristol in six -days notwithstanding the fact that she was lying becalmed -for a whole day. After the slave trade had been declared -illegal and hence required the very swiftest vessels for its -service, she was sold to Cuban parties who fitted her for -a slaver. Her career as such was not long. Having -a cargo of slaves on board she was chased one day by a -warship, and, running for shelter into the harbor of Matanzas, -struck upon a reef on which she was soon pounded to -pieces. Her crew were saved to a man. Not so the slaves; -they all perished.</p> - -<p>Eleven days after the Declaration of War was proclaimed -Mr. De Wolf sent to the Secretary of War this letter:</p> - -<div class="blockquotx"> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Bristol, R.I.</span>, June 30, 1812.</p> -<p class="noindent">The Honorable <span class="smcap">William Eustis</span>,</p> -<p>Secretary of War:—</p> - -<p>Sir; I have purchased and now ready for sea, an armed -brig, (one of the most suitable in this country for a privateer) -of one hundred and sixty tons burden, mounting eighteen guns, -and carries one hundred and twenty men, called the Yankee, -commanded by Oliver Wilson. Being desirous that she should -be on her cruise as soon as possible, I beg that you will cause -a commission to be forwarded as soon as practicable to the -Collector of the District, that this vessel may not be detained.</p> - -<p class="right"> -<span class="padr6">I am very respectfully, Sir,</span><br /> -<span class="padr4">Your obedient servant,</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">James De Wolf</span>.</p> -</div> - -<p>The commission of the Yankee was issued July 13, 1812. -Her owners were James De Wolf and John Smith, the latter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span> -owning but one-quarter of the vessel. The Articles -of Agreement under which the privateer sailed were as -follows:</p> - -<div class="blockquotx"> - -<p class="center smcap">Articles of Agreement between the Owners, Officers -and Company of the Private armed Vessel of -War, Yankee.</p> - -<p>1st. It is agreed by the parties that the Owners fit the -Vessel for sea and provide her with great guns, small arms, -powder, shot and all other warlike stores, also with suitable -medicines and every other thing necessary for such a vessel -and her cruise for all of which no deduction is to be made from -the shares, for which the Owners or their substitutes shall -receive or draw One Half the nett proceeds of all such Prizes -or prize as may be taken, and the other half shall be the property -of the Vessel’s Company to be divided in proportions as -mentioned in the 15th article, except the cabin-stores and furniture -which belong to the Captain.</p> - -<p>2d. That for preserving due decorum on board said vessel, -no man is to quit or go out of her on board any other vessel, -or on shore without having first obtained leave of the Commanding -officer on board, under the penalty of such punishment -or fine as shall be decreed by the Captain and Officers.</p> - -<p>3d. That the Cruise shall be where the Owners or the major -part of them shall direct.</p> - -<p>4th. If any person shall be found a RINGLEADER of -any Mutiny, or causing disturbance, or refuse to obey the -Captain, or any Officer, behave with Cowardice, or get drunk -in time of action, he or they shall forfeit his or their shares of -any dividend, or be otherwise punished at the discretion of -the Captain and Officers.</p> - -<p>5th. If any person shall steal or convert to his own use -any part of a prize or prizes, or be found pilfering any money -or other things belonging to this Vessel, her Officers, or Company, -and be thereof convicted by her Officers, he shall be -punished and forfeit as aforesaid.</p> - -<p>6th. That whoever first spies a prize or sail, that proves -worth 100 dollars a share, shall receive Fifty Dollars from the -gross sum; and if orders are given for boarding, the first man -on the deck of the Enemy shall receive Half a share to be deducted -from the gross sum of prize-money.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[216]</span></p> - -<p>7th. That if any one of the said Company shall in time of -action lose an eye or a joint, he shall receive Fifty Dollars, and -if he lose a leg or an arm, he shall receive Three Hundred -Dollars to be deducted out of the Gross sum of Prize-money.</p> - -<p>8th. That if any of said Company shall strike or assault -any male prisoner, or rudely treat any female prisoner, he -shall be punished or fined as the Officers shall decree.</p> - -<p>9th. That if any of the said Company shall die or be killed -in the voyage, and any prizes be taken before or during the -action in which he is so killed, his share or shares shall be paid -to his legal representatives.</p> - -<p>10th. That whoever deserts the said Vessel, within the -time hereinafter mentioned, shall forfeit his Prize-money to -the Owners and Company of the said Vessel, his debts to any -person on board being first paid out of it, provided it does not -amount to more than one half the same.</p> - -<p>11th. That on the death of the Captain, the command to -devolve on the next in command and so in rotation.</p> - -<p>12th. That no one of said company shall sell any more -than one half his share or right of claim thereto of any prize -previous to her being taken.</p> - -<p>13th. That the Captain and Officers shall appoint an agent -of said Vessel’s company for and during the term of the said -cruise.</p> - -<p>14th. That all and everyone of said Company do agree to -serve on board of said Vessel for the term of four months, -conformable to the terms herein mentioned, beginning the -said term at the time of her departure from the harbour of -Bristol.</p> - -<p>15th. That One Half of the Nett proceeds of all prizes -taken by the said Vessel which is appropriated to the Vessel’s -Company shall be divided among them in the following manner -(viz) To the Captain sixteen Shares and all such privileges -and freedoms as are allowed to the Captains of Private armed -Vessels of War from this Port.</p> - -<p>To the First Lieutenant nine Shares. To the 2d and 3d -Lieutenants and Surgeon eight Shares each. Prize masters -and Master’s Mate and Captain of Marines six Shares each; -Carpenter, Boatswain and Gunner four Shares each. Boatswain’s -Mates two and one half Shares each. The residue to -be divided among the Company in equal Shares excepting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span> -Landsmen or raw hands who draw one and one half Shares -each, and boys who draw one Share each. Ten Shares to -be reserved to the order of the Captain to be distributed by -him to such as he may deem deserving among the Vessel’s -Company.</p> -</div> - -<p>The Yankee was immediately and immensely successful. -In this respect she was unlike the other privateers of the -“War of 1812.” It is a mistake to suppose that the business -of privateering was, as a rule, a successful one. Most -of the vessels engaged in it barely paid their expenses. To -very many the cruise resulted only in a loss. Much depended -on the sailing qualities of the ship, and the way in -which she was handled; but much more depended upon -sheer luck. The privateers, as a rule, did an enormous -amount of damage to the shipping of the enemy without -reaping any corresponding advantage themselves. The -Yankee, however, not only inflicted enormous damage upon -the enemy but was also enormously profitable to her owners.</p> - -<p>Her officers on her first cruise were Oliver Wilson,<a id="FNanchor_43" href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> -captain, and Manly Sweet, James Usher, 2d, and Thomas -H. Russell, lieutenants. She carried a crew of 115 men -(they must have been packed like sardines), and made for -the coast of Nova Scotia. One of her first prizes was the -Royal Bounty, a full rigged ship of 659 tons (about four -times the size of the Yankee, but manned by a crew of only -25 men). The Bounty was taken after a running fight in -which three Americans were wounded, while two of the -English were killed and seven wounded. The boldness of -Captain Wilson in attacking a vessel so much larger than -his own was remarkable, but the end justified his conduct. -As a rule the privateers avoided engagements with ships<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span> -of superior size, remembering that, primarily, their object -was not to fight battles for the glory of the flag, but to -capture ships for their own pecuniary advantage. They -could and did fight bravely and successfully upon occasion, -but, ordinarily, deemed it wiser to show their heels to a -superior foe. Nine other prizes were taken on the first -cruise of less than three months, the most valuable of which -was the ship Francis whose cargo netted more than $200,000 -to her captors. That first cruise paid for the brigantine -several times over, and resulted in a dividend of more than -$700 a share.</p> - -<p>Small wonder then that the Bristol sailors almost fought -for a place on her decks for her second cruise, when she -sailed again from the harbor on the fifteenth of October. -The journal of that second cruise is hereinafter published -in full. Captain Wilson’s instructions this time were to -scour the west coast of Africa and to come home in the -track of vessels sailing to Europe from Brazil and the West -Indies. One hundred and fifteen days after the Yankee -had sailed out from the harbor two boys were “shinning -up” the masts of two vessels tied up at a wharf, in the -good old Bristol way already described (<a href="#Page_30">p. 30</a>). As the -victor in the contest placed his cap upon the cap of the topmast -he saw something which caused him, leaving his cap -where it was, to slide down mast and shroud regardless of -damage to trousers and hands, and to go running up the -street crying out at the top of his voice, “The Yankee is -coming up the Bay with a prize on each side of her.” It -was even so. The prizes were the Shannon, a fine brig of -200 tons, and the letter of marque schooner Alder. The -dividend for each share in the second cruise was $338.40.</p> - -<p>On May 10, 1813, the brigantine was commissioned for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span> -her third cruise. Elisha Snow was her Captain. The -Lieutenants were Thomas Jones, Samuel Barton and George -A. Bruce. British war vessels were swarming along the -coast. Captain Snow learned that a frigate and a fourteen-gun -brig were waiting for him near Block Island. Choosing -his time with care he sailed from Newport on May 20 and -steered joyfully for British waters. His instructions were -to “take enough prizes to make up a handsome cruise, calculating -one-half the prizes to be retaken.” Three months -later he was again lying at anchor in Bristol harbor. Seven -prizes were taken on this cruise but most of them were recaptured. -The most important of them was the “snow” -Thames, of 312 tons burden, with 287 bales of cotton on -board. Vessel and cargo were valued at $110,000. The -prize money for each share was $173.54.</p> - -<p>The fourth cruise was almost a failure. A new set of -officers was on board. They were Thomas Jones, captain, -and Thomas Milton, George Eddy and Sampson Gullifer, -lieutenants. All told there were 109 persons on the ship. -Among the crew we still see the names of Jack Jibsheet and -Cuffee Cockroach enumerated as cabin boys. They seem -to have been steadily attached to the vessel. Almost all -the names of the ship’s crew were British. It is very likely, -however, that the two cabin boys, notwithstanding their -pure Anglo-Saxon names, may have been of African lineage. -The instructions this time were to cruise “on the -track of homeward bound vessels near the Grand Banks.” -Prizes were to make for Nantucket Shoals and to get into -the first port on the Vineyard Sound, avoiding Boston. -But two prizes reached port, and the dividend for each -share was only $17.29.</p> - -<p>There was no competition for berths on the fifth cruise.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span> -Indeed, some of the sailors swam ashore before the privateer -left the harbor of Bristol.<a id="FNanchor_44" href="#Footnote_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> All the probabilities -seemed to point rather to a prison in England than a profit -in America. Elisha Snow was again in command. His -Lieutenants were Samuel Barton, John Smith and Francis -Elliott. Thomas Jones, the captain of the voyage before, -was second captain. The cruise was not finished as planned -because the Yankee was driven into New Bedford by an -English man-of-war and the crew deserted almost to a man. -Four prizes only were taken, three of which were of no -value whatever. But the fourth reached Portland, Maine, -in safety. She was a full rigged ship, the San Jose Indiano,<a id="FNanchor_45" href="#Footnote_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> -and, with her cargo, sold for more than half a million<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span> -dollars. The voyage that had been undertaken with the -greatest hesitation was the most profitable of all. The two -gentlemen of color, Jibsheet and Cockroach, received respectively -$738.19 and $1,121.88 as their dividends. Captain -Snow’s “lay” was $15,789.69, and the owners realized -$223,313.10. It was the luckiest cruise made by any privateer -during the war. Naturally resulted a season of -great hilarity in the home port. Imagine the effect upon -a little town of less than 3,000 inhabitants today if a million -dollars were suddenly and unexpectedly poured into the -pockets of its people! Notwithstanding the immense risks -there were volunteers enough for the sixth cruise—which -was to be the last one. The sailing orders for this cruise -were issued October 1, 1814.</p> - -<p>Captain Snow had apparently decided to let well enough -alone, for William C. Jenckes was the new captain. The -second captain was Benjamin K. Churchill, “a fellow of infinite -humor” as we shall presently see. A. B. Hetherington, -Henry Wardwell and Samuel Grafton were the lieutenants. -The times had become most strenuous as may -be judged from this section of the sailing directions: “You -must depend principally upon the goods you take on board<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span> -to make your cruise, as the prizes you man will be very -uncertain.” In the private instructions issued to Captain -Jenckes special attention was paid to the definition of “neutral” -property. The American privateers had inflicted so -much damage upon English shipping that the merchants -of England had been forced to conceal their property under -neutral flags. The captain of the Yankee was instructed -to send in a neutral if he had destroyed any papers, or if -he had fired upon him. “If any one of a House shipping -property resides in England, or in an English colony, that -share of the shipment is a good prize of war. Notwithstanding -he may have been born a neutral, and lived in a -neutral country all his life; if he is now domiciled in the -enemy’s country, it is sufficient to condemn his property.” -The cruise lasted 105 days. Five prizes were taken and -reported to the owners in a letter written by Second Captain -Churchill. Only one of these brought money to their captors. -This was the brig Courtney, which with its cargo -sold for $70,000. One was the General Wellesley, an East -Indian teak built ship of 600 tons, in which its captors at -first thought they saw a second San Jose Indiano. Her -value was estimated at upward of $200,000. She was -ordered to make for the port of Charleston, S. C., but, with -two of her prize crew and 52 of her original crew of Lascars, -was lost on Charleston Bar. Captain Churchill ended -his letter as follows:—“P. S. I have lost one of my legs -on this cruise.”</p> - -<p>Less than three years was the Yankee upon the seas as -a private armed vessel of war. In those years she captured -British property of the value of more than five million -dollars. She sent into the town of Bristol a million -dollars as the profit from her six cruises. No other privateer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span> -sailing from an American port ever established such -a record.</p> - -<p>In the year 1812 when to most men the shipping business -seemed likely to continue to be the most prominent in the -country Mr. De Wolf foresaw the immense development -of manufacturing industries. In that year he built in the -town of Coventry, R. I., a site chosen because of its water -power, a cotton factory, the Arkwright Mills. These he -continued to own and direct until his death. As has been -already stated he placed some of his vessels in the whale -fishery, continuing in that business only as long as his ships -made profitable voyages. He seemed to judge unerringly -concerning business possibilities. All this time he was -cultivating the arable portion of the nearly one thousand -acres of land which he owned in and near Bristol. He -built for himself a stately mansion, on a little hill always -spoken of by Bristol people as “The Mount,” in which his -descendants continued to reside until its destruction by fire -a few years ago.</p> - -<p>Inevitably he came to take a leading part in political -matters. For almost thirty years he represented his native -town in the Rhode Island Legislature, laying aside the gavel -of the Speaker of that body in 1821 to become a member -of the United States Senate. As a Senator his immense -business experience made him the recognized authority in -commercial matters. He was a strong “protectionist” and -was the first in the Senate to propose the “drawback” system -which has since been so largely adopted in the United -States and elsewhere. He was one of the few Senators, -perhaps the only one from New England, who were accustomed -to ride to Washington in their own coaches. Happily -this relic of the luxury of a hundred years ago still<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span> -remains in the possession of a descendant of Mark Anthony -De Wolf, Colonel Samuel Pomeroy Colt of Bristol. Mr. -De Wolf’s life at Washington was not pleasing to him. -The progress of Congressional legislation was too slow for -his active mind, and his constantly increasing business demanded -all of his attention. He therefore resigned from -the United States Senate long before his term expired and -joyfully resumed his old position as a representative of -Bristol in the Legislature of Rhode Island.</p> - -<p>James De Wolf died at the residence of one of his daughters -in New York City, December 21, 1837. The tidings -of his death crushed the town in which he was born. No -man had ever done so much for Bristol as he. He had -always made its welfare his own, had loyally advocated -every scheme for its advancement, had gladly contributed -to every worthy project put forward by its people. When -he died there was no one to take his place. Never was any -Bristolian more sincerely or more deeply mourned.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[225]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h3>2—JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE</h3> -</div> - -<p class="pfs70 lht lsp">JOURNAL OF THE PRIVATE ARMED BRIGANTINE<br /> -YANKEE, OLIVER WILSON COMMANDER—<br /> -COMMENCED ON THE 15TH OCTOBER, 1812.</p> - -<p class="center">(Kept by Noah Jones, Captain’s Clerk).</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">Thursday, 15th October, 1812.</p> - -<p>At 4 p. m. Capt. Wilson, accompanied by his Lieutenants, -Master, Surgeon and Clerk, came on board. All hands were -piped to muster, and on inspection the Commander found -his crew consisted of ninety-five as prime fellows as ever -went to sea.</p> - -<p>N. B. The <i>Yankee</i> is completely equipped with arms, -ammunition, provisions and other necessary articles for a -six months cruise. She mounts 14 guns at present—8 -twelve pound carronades, 4 long sixes, and two long fours—has -one long double-fortified twelve pounder (a beautiful -piece) in her hold, to be hereafter mounted,—with 60 -stand of arms and a large quantity of pistols, cutlashes -and boarding pikes.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">Friday, 16th October 1812</p> - -<p>The Commander quartered the officers and seamen at -their several stations in time of action, regulated the Messes, -fixed the allowance of provisions, water, etc., ordered a -regular Bill of Fare, and pointed out to every officer and -man his duty on board the <i>Yankee</i>. At 9 a. m. Lieutenant -Hardiman of the Army came on board to enquire for a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[226]</span> -deserter. Capt. Wilson immediately ordered the Boatswain’s -Mate to pipe all hands on deck and requested Lieutenant -Hardiman to examine them man by man, to discover -his deserter. He did so without success.</p> - -<p>At 2 p. m. the wind coming suddenly round to the N. W. -Captain Wilson gave orders to loose the foretopsail, send -up the foretop-gallant yard, fire a gun, and set the signals -for sailing. At 4 the wind shifted to the N. E.—dark and -cloudy with appearance of bad weather. At 5 clewed up -the foretopsail and got the barge in upon deck.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">Saturday, 17th October 1812</p> - -<p>At daylight sailing orders were issued by the Commander. -Loosed square foresail, foretopsail and mainsail, fired gun, -and set our colours. At 6 a. m. unmoored and got underway; -when abeam of the Private Armed Schooner <i>Tom</i> of -Baltimore, Thomas Wilson Commander, the officers and -company of the <i>Yankee</i> gave them three cheers which was -immediately returned. Fired a salute of three guns as we -passed Fort Walcott. Wind N. N. W. fair weather and -extremely pleasant. At 7 passed R. I. Light. At ½ past 7 -gibed ship to the S. S. E.—set all drawing sails—considerable -swell. At ½ past 9 a. m. Block Island bore west, distant -5 leagues;—from which we take our departure on our -cruise. At meridian discovered a sail at a great distance—could -not distinguish what she was. Lat. 40°56′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">1st Day—Sunday 18th October 1812</p> - -<p>First part light winds and hazy weather. 2 p. m. discovered -a schooner ahead standing to the westward. At -3 saw a large ship, also standing to the westward. At 4 -p. m. piped all hands to quarters and exercised the seamen -and marines at the great guns and small arms. The Commander<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span> -found them well disciplined and fit for immediate -service. 5 a. m. discovered a sail 2 points on the lee bow. -Took in the studding sails on the stabbord side and hauled -up to the eastward. 6.30 a. m. saw another sail right ahead; -took in larboard studding sails and royal, and brought her -close upon the wind—heading N. E. At 9 a. m. having lost -sight of the sail kept away to the S. E. and set studding -sails. Latter part gentle breezes and hazy weather. At -meridian no sail in sight. Course S. E. b S. Lat. Obs. -39°51′.</p> - -<div class="blockquotx"> - -<p>(For several days the Journal chronicles mainly the condition of the -weather and the necessary changes in the sails. The fact was quickly -established that the vessel was “perfectly staunch and strong and a -most excellent sea boat.” The brigantine was always a most remarkable -sailor. She answered the helm readily and scudded over the -waves while other vessels were still courting the capricious winds. -After the war, when she was simply a merchant vessel plying between -Bristol and the Island of Cuba, she made some runs between the Moro -and Block Island light in shorter time than that scheduled for the -regular trips of the steamship lines. With a man o’ war’s crew to -handle her, her speed must have been marvellous. Only the more important -portions of the Journal will henceforth be printed. The total -number of persons on board when the “Muster Roll” was called on -the second day was one hundred.—<em>Ed.</em>)</p> -</div> - - -<p class="p1 center">2d Day—Monday October 19th</p> - -<p>The log ends with the following paragraph. “The Surgeon -has been much indisposed with seasickness since he -left Newport. He finds the best remedy to be sleep. There -is only one person (John Briggs) with a sore thumb on -the Surgeon’s list.”</p> - -<div class="blockquotx"> - -<p>(Apparently an epidemic of sore thumbs had been feared.—<em>Ed.</em>)</p> -</div> - - -<p class="p1 center">3d Day—Tuesday October 20th</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... 7 p. m. Shipped a heavy sea abaft the beam which -stove in all three of the Arm Chests, and capsized the musquets,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span> -bayonets, cutlashes, pistols, armourer’s tools etc. into -the lee scuppers. The Carpenter repaired the damage as -soon as possible and replaced the arms.... No sail in -sight.... The Surgeon still indisposed. John Briggs and -the Cook on the Doctor’s list. Lat. Obs. 36°15′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">4th Day—Wednesday October 21st</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... The officers of Marines, Armourer and his mates -busy in cleaning arms from the rust contracted during the -bad weather, oiling them, and stowing them in the arm-chests -in good order. John Briggs, Cyrus Simmons and -Ned Ingraham on the Doctor’s list.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">5th Day—Thursday October 22d</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 4 p. m. all hands piped to quarters. The Commander -again pointed out to every man his station; appointed -Lieutenants Barton and Jones to lead the 1st and -2d Divisions of Boarders, and distributed the swords, cutlashes -and pistols among the seamen. The officers then -exercised the seamen and marines at the great guns and -small arms, going through the usual manouvres during an -engagement. After which all hands were summoned aft -and the Commander read over certain Instructions regulating, -under severe penalties, the conduct of the officers -and crew, upon all occasions, particularly in time of action, -or when on board an enemy’s vessel.... The Surgeon -still indisposed and ate no dinner. Briggs, Simmons, Ingraham -and Angell on the Doctor’s list with trifling complaints. -Lat. Obs. 35°24′.</p> - -<div class="blockquotx"> - -<p>(From this time forward Lieut. Barton is very much in the foreground. -He was a near relative of Col. Barton of “The Rhode Island -Line,” who in the Revolutionary War had distinguished himself by -his daring capture of the British General Prescott within the Enemy’s -lines. It goes without saying, therefore, that he was quite devoid of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span> -fear. In after life he still followed the sea even though he had become -extremely corpulent and had acquired an abdominal development -which compelled universal attention if not admiration. Once he was -chased by a French Privateer. A shot which happened to strike the -ship’s cat scattered her entrails all over the deck. The cabin boy cast -a startled glance at the dead cat, then looked at his Captain and was -immediately doubled up with laughter. “Well,” said the Captain, “what -are you laughing about now?” “Nothing,” said the boy, “only I was -thinking what an awful mess there would be if one of those balls -should strike you in the belly.”—<em>Ed.</em>)</p> -</div> - - -<p class="p1 center">6th Day Friday October 23d</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 6 a. m. the man at the mast head called out a -sail bearing N. b E. distant about two leagues. 6.30 a. m. -piped all hands to quarters, loosed the guns, and cleared for -action. 7.20 a. m. fired a gun without shot, upon which the -sail hove to.... At 8 a. m. ran under the lee of a large -copper-bottomed American ship and sent the barge on board. -Found her to be the <i>Ariadne</i> of Boston, Captain Bartlett -Holmes, from Alexandria bound to Cadiz with a full cargo -of flour, 17 days out. Capt. Holmes informed us that on -the 11th inst. he was boarded by an officer from the United -States, Commodore Decatur. (The <i>President</i>, <i>Congress</i> -and <i>Argus</i> were in company standing to the eastward.) -The <i>Ariadne’s</i> crew having mutinied Capt. Holmes requested -Com. Decatur to take four of the ringleaders on -board the frigate, which he did accordingly. Capt. H. mentioned -that his ship had sprung a leak, and being short -handed, with a disorderly mutinous crew, he was bound -home again in distress. The Commander put a letter on -board, directed to the owners, informing them of the good -health and spirits of the crew, and our situation in Lat. -25° N. and Long. 56° W....</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">7th Day Saturday 24th Oct.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Lat. 36°9′ ...</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">8th Day Sunday 25th Oct.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Briggs, Simmons, Lewis and Angell on the Surgeon’s -list with light complaints. Lat. Obs. 35°15′. Long. -pr, lunar Obs. at 12 Meridian 53°3′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">9th Day Monday 26th Oct.</p> - -<p>Fair weather with strong gales from the westward. -Scudding before the wind under square-foresail, fore topsail -and foretopmast staysail. At 5 p. m. discovered from -the deck (owing to the negligence of the man at the foretop) -two large sail in our wake, distant about three leagues, -standing after us with their topgallant sails up. Immediately -hauled up to the S. E. and set square-foresail, single-reefed -mainsail and fore and aft foresail. The sails astern -frequently luffed up and yawned off and when we saw them -last stood to the N. E.... Frequent squalls with rain and -a tremendous sea. Course S. E. b E. under three-reefed -mainsail close-reefed square-foresail, and double-reefed -foretopsail, with the foretopmast-staysail. Same persons -on the Surgeon’s list. Shipped a great deal of water upon -deck, the comins of the sea frequently coming on board and -penetrating every part of the vessel. Lat. 34°40′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">10th Day Tuesday 27th Oct.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... No sail in sight and nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. -33°26′. N. B. It is something singular that since we left -port we have had only one pleasant day. There has been -a continual succession of gales of wind from all parts of -the compass, attended with torrents of rain, squalls, whirlwinds, -thunder and lightning, and a tremendous sea frequently -breaking on board and occasioning considerable -damage; carrying away several spars and staving the arm-chests. -Indeed it may be said that our vessel has sailed -thus far under but not over the Atlantic Ocean.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">11th Day Wednesday 28th Oct.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Middle and latter part of the day stiff gales with -a high sea. Shipped a great deal of water upon deck. Lat. -Obs. 32°5′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">12th Day Thursday 29th Oct.</p> - -<p>During these 24 hours strong gales with frequent squalls -of wind and rain, and a very high sea frequently breaking -on board. Lat. Obs. 30°27′. Lunar Obs. at 23 M. past -Meridian 41°55′41″. Cyrus Simmons, John Briggs, Amos -A. Allen, James Angell, Ebenezer Byrum and William Redding -on the Surgeon’s list.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">13th Day Friday 30th Oct.</p> - -<p>(A delightful change.) At meridian the weather began -to moderate. 1 p. m. fair weather with a clear horizon and -the sea going down. Let all the reefs out of the mainsail -and square-foresail, sent up maintopmast, rigged out the -jib-boom and set the jib. At 9 p. m. took a single reef in -the fore-topsail and mainsail. During the night fresh -breezes and clear weather. Lat. Obs. 28°43′. Long. per -Lunar Obs. at 18 m. past 10—40°11′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">14th Day Saturday 31st Oct.</p> - -<p>Lat. 29° N. & Long. 40°20′ W. At 6 a. m. discovered -a sail from the masthead at a great distance bearing W. -S. W. Light breezes from the north inclining to a calm. -Piped all hands upon deck, set all drawing sails, in chase -and got out the sweeps. 9 a. m. found we came up rapidly -with the chase which appeared to be a brig standing to the -S. W. At meridian spoke the Portuguese Brig <i>Henriette</i>, -Capt. Jenkins, from Madeira, 18 days out, in ballast, bound -to Philadelphia. Capt. Jenkins informed us that on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span> -21st he spoke an American ship and brig bound home; on -the 22d he was boarded by an officer from a British Frigate. -Captain Jenkins <ins class="corr" id="tn-232a" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'left at Maderia'"> -left at Madeira</ins> several American vessels -bound home with full cargoes; also two English ships loading -with wine for the West Indies. Shortly before Capt. -Jenkins <ins class="corr" id="tn-232b" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'left Maderia an'"> -left Madeira an</ins> English brig loaded with wine -sailed for the West Indies, likewise three English East -Indiamen with full cargoes, under the convoy of a British -Frigate as far as Palmas. There were no King’s vessels -at Madeira. An American Privateer, owned at New Orleans, -was cruising off Madeira and had taken several -prizes!! Capt. Jenkins being short of bread our Commander -supplied him with this necessary article, and received in return -some vinegar, fish and fruit. Permitted the <i>Henriette</i> -to proceed.... Lat. Obs. 27°40′. (Wrote a letter to the -Owners by the <i>Henriette</i>, Capt. Jenkins, informing them -of our situation and of the good health of our Officers and -Company.)</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">15th Day Sunday 1st Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 27°14′ N. Long. -38°28′ W.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">16th Day Monday 2d Nov.</p> - -<p>At 4 p. m. piped all hands to quarters and the Officers -examined them man by man, to discover whether they were -neat and clean in their persons and dress—according to the -Commander’s instructions—to prevent fevers <ins class="corr" id="tn-232c" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'and the scurvey'"> -and the scurvy</ins> during a long cruise. The crew were then summoned -aft, and the Captain’s Clerk read the General Instructions -to the Officers and Company, regulating their conduct upon -all occasions during the cruise. From 8 a. m. till 4 p. m. -the Watches employed about ship’s duty; the Carpenter and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span> -his Mates busy about making new arm-chests; sail-makers -in repairing ring-tale; Officers of Marines and Armorer -in cleaning arms, and numbering muskets and cartridge -boxes, and seamen and marines in mending rigging, drying -sails, and other necessary duty.... The Surgeon is quite -indisposed with the headache, loss of appetite and low -spirits. Lat. Obs. 20°16′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">17th Day Tuesday 3d Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... The watch only employed on ship’s duty. Samuel -Boynton and Ned Ingraham on the Surgeon’s list. Lat. -Obs. 25°3′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">18th Day Wednesday 4th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Several tropic birds in sight.... The Prize-Master, -Quartermaster’s Mates, inferior officers and nearly all hands -busy in repairing the nettings, bulwarks and side-cloths.... -Lat. Obs. 23°44′ (The Commander issued particular -written instructions to his Officers, prescribing their respective -duties upon all occasions during the cruise. These -instructions were drawn according to the customs and -usages of the British and American navies.)</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">19th Day Thursday 5th Nov.</p> - -<p>At sunrise discovered a sail bearing 2 points on the larboard -bow. Jibed ship to the E. N. E. and set all drawing -sails in chase. At 8 a. m. found the strange vessel to be a -brig with her starboard tacks on board, standing to the westward. -9 a. m. fired a gun to windward, upon which the -sail luffed up and showed Spanish colours, and then bore -down to us. Took in all the light sails and then hove to. -At 10 a. m. the sail came under our lee and we sent our -barge on board. Found her to be the Spanish <i>San Jose</i>, -<em>alias</em> <i>El Pajaro</i>, Captain Miguel Burgas, from Cadiz, 20<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span> -days out, with a full cargo of red wines, aguadiente, fruit, -sweet oil, soaps, olives, stationary, (<em>sic</em>) musical instruments -and ladies’ veils. When two days out Capt. Burgas -saw a Spanish schooner standing for the Canaries. The -<i>San Jose</i> left at Cadiz several American vessels bound to -sea under Spanish colours; also several English men of war, -and transports. Capt. Burgas informed us that on the 25th -of August the French army raised the siege of Cadiz, and -retreated with great expedition, having previously destroyed -their artillery. It was reported at Cadiz that there had -been several skirmishes between the French and Russian -armies but no decisive battle. Having examined the papers -of the <i>San Jose</i>, and found the vessel and cargo to be <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">bona -fide</i> Spanish property, permitted her to proceed on her voyage.... -Lat. Obs. 22°49′. Long. D. R. 20°57′ San Jose -Long. 25 d. Cadiz. Surgeon’s list. James Angell, Cyrus -Simmons, John Briggs, Samuel Boynton, Joseph Lewis and -John Koster.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">20th Day Friday 6th Nov.</p> - -<p>At 1 p. m. being in Lat. 22°49′, the Crew of the <i>Yankee</i> -preparing to celebrate Old Neptune’s ceremonies on passing -the Tropics. Accordingly the old Sea God, attended by -his Lady, barbers and constables, dressed in the most fantastic -manner, with painted faces, and swabs upon their -heads, hailed our brig, came on board, were received with -a salute and three cheers, demanded of Captain Wilson -whether he had any of his sons on board, and welcomed -the <i>Yankee</i> into his dominions. On being answered in the -affirmative he asked permission to initiate the marines and -raw hands into the usual mysteries on such occasions. He -then examined the Surgeon and being convinced that he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span> -came to sea to take care of his children when they were -sick, he excused him from being shaved with an iron hoop, -and from passing through the other disagreeable parts of -the ceremony. After which Neptune and his companions -went forward and regularly initiated about one fourth of -our crew into all the curious forms requisite to make them -true sons of the ocean. The several candidates for a seaman’s -character were properly painted, slushed, shaved, -ducked, questioned and sworn. Their singular questions -and answers excited infinite laughter and merriment. After -the ceremony concluded, the Commander, Officers and -whole crew joined in a Ducking match, which aided in -great good humour and pleasantry. The remainder of the -day and evening were devoted to fencing, boxing, wrestling, -singing, drinking, laughing, and every species of mirth and -fun. Lat. Obs. 21°58′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">21st Day Saturday 7th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable.... Same persons on Surgeon’s -list. Lat. Obs. 21°34′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">22d Day Sunday 8th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Cleaned out the cabin and got all the baggage and -trunks on deck. Examined the Officers and crew, man by -man, and found them neat and clean. At 10 a. m. the -Commander and Officers attended prayers in the cabin. The -Marines employed in singing psalms and the sailors in washing -and mending their clothes. Lat. Obs. 21°16′. Lunar -Obs. at 5-20 was 31°17′. Same persons on the Surgeon’s -list.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">23d Day Monday 9th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... James Angell, Cyrus Simmons, John Briggs, Samuel -Boynton, Joseph Lewis, John Koster and James Crawford<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[236]</span> -on the Surgeon’s list with various complaints—none dangerous. -Lat. 20°4′. A singular circumstance occurred to -day. On opening a dolphin which one of the Prize-Masters -caught we found a pistol ball in him which had been discharged -about an hour before.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">24th Day Tuesday 10th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 20°19′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">25th Day Wednesday 11th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 10 a. m. all hands were exercised in firing with -the musket at a target. Found most of the crew to be excellent -marksmen.... Observed the water to be considerably -colored. Sounded with 100 fathoms. No bottom. -Lat. Obs. 19°11′. Same persons on Surgeon’s list; none -incapable of duty.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">26th Day Thursday 12th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 4 p. m. the Marines trained to the Manual Exercise; -also to several new manouvres <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">a la mode de Francais</i>. -The Boarders amuse themselves with fencing and the rest -of the crew act as spectators.... Lat. Obs. 18°19′. Long. -per Lunar Obs. at 2 p. m. 28°53′30″. Crawford and Koster -struck off the Surgeon’s list. The rest recovering fast.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">27th Day Friday 13th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 4 p. m. the Commander exercised the Officers,—and -the Captain of Marines his men and the Boarders,—to -the use of the musket according to the French system -of loading and firing without using the ramrod.... At -½ past 11 a. m. Captain Wilson called out “Land ho! right -ahead!!” ... At meridian found the land to be, by an -observation of the sun, the Island of St. Anthony, one of -the Cape de Verds, situated in Lat. N. 17°20′ and 24°59′ W.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span> -Long. Lat. Obs. 17°15′. The island bore when first we -made it S. E. b E.—distant about 5 miles. Cyrus Simmons, -James Angell, James Thomas, Watson Morris, Aaron Mason, -Samuel Boynton and Ned Ingraham on the Surgeon’s -list; none incapable of duty. On examination the Commander -finds Master Snow’s lunar observations to be very -correct, and that the dead reckoning could not be depended -on. THUS in 27 days we have run a distance of 3,500 -miles, notwithstanding occasional head winds and a great -deal of light calm weather. Nothing very remarkable occurred -during our passage.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">28th Day Saturday 14th Nov.</p> - -<p>(Variable winds and frequent changing of sails. Strong -gales and heavy squalls). No land in sight. Lat. Obs. -16°20′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">29th Day Sunday 15th Nov.</p> - -<p>(Sighted several of the Cape Verde Islands) Hazy -weather and frequent squalls. Made and took in sail occasionally. -Lat Obs. 16°21′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">30th Day Monday 15th [sic] Nov.</p> - -<p>Fresh breezes and cloudy weather. At 4 p. m. came to -in a wide bay at the south end of the Island of St. Nicholas; -out with the barge and the Commander, Surgeon and Captain -of Marines went on shore unarmed. Found the Island -to be mountainous, barren and uncultivated. Saw only a -few small huts near the shore inhabited by blacks who led us -to a well of water, brackish and sulphurous. They told us -we could fill only three barrels a day, and that there was -no anchorage except within cable length of this iron bound -coast. We saw the wreck of a large armed ship which -was cast away there a short time before. They informed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span> -us there was a town or village two leagues distant, situated -in a fine valley producing corn, grapes, fruits, etc., where -the Governor resided, but that wood and provisions were -very dear. Capt. Wilson therefore concluded it would not -be advisable to anchor there, purchased a few pigs, returned -on board, and set sail with a fair wind for the Island of -St. Jago.... At meridian having run down the west side -of the Isle of May, and looked into the port where there -were only two small Portuguese boats, we wore ship and -stood over for St. Jago. The Isle of May appears more fertile -than any of the Cape de Verdes we have seen yet. Habitations -are scattered over every part of the Island and salt -works appear along the beach. There is a small town composed -of 15 or 20 houses at the south end of the Island -but no fortifications that we could discover. Isle of May -Lat. S. W. pt. 15°4′ N. Long. 22°46′ W. Joseph Antony, -Henry Mitchell, and George Schoonerson added to the Surgeon’s -list.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">31st Day Tuesday 17th Nov.</p> - -<p>The Officers and Company feasted most sumptuously on -the pigs they bought at St. Nicholas. At 1 p. m. came to -anchor in the harbour of Port Praya, Island of St. Jago. -We ran from the Isle of May to that place in 1¾ hours, -a distance of 30 miles, having a fine breeze from the N. N. E. -and all sails set. At 2 p. m. the Commander, attended by -his Surgeon and Clerk, went on shore. He reported himself -to the Governor-General and Intendant as the Armed American -Brig <i>Yankee</i>, and requested permission to obtain a -supply of water, wood and fresh provisions. This permission -was immediately granted, and the Governor expressed -much satisfaction, and some degree of surprise, at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span> -seeing an American armed vessel in this distant part of the -world. He inquired very particularly concerning the events -of the war between America and England, and regretted -that this circumstance had deprived these islands of the -American commerce. He said they were in great want of -flour, bread, rice, etc., and offered a supply of every article -our vessel wanted in return for those articles. He informed -us no English vessel had touched at this island for some -weeks past, but that there was an old British brig on the -south side of St. Anthony loading with salt for the Brazils. -The Governor further mentioned that the Private Armed -American Ship called the <i>Alfred</i>, Captain Williams, touched -at this island a short time since and obtained a supply of -water and provisions. The <i>Alfred</i> had taken and manned -two valuable prizes, and was then bound on a long cruise. -On taking leave the General told Capt. Wilson that he -should expect the customary salute which would be returned. -6 p. m. the barge returned on board. At 8 a. m. -we fired a regular United States salute of 17 guns which -was immediately returned by an equal number from the -town. Part of the Officers and men employed in filling -water and the remainder about ship’s duty.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">32d Day Wednesday 18th Nov.</p> - -<p>4 p. m. got all our water on board. 8 a. m. the Intendant-General, -Dr. Madina, came on board with the Governor-General’s -compliments on our arrival. He remained and -took breakfast with us, and appeared pleased with the appearance -of the <i>Yankee</i>. 9 a. m. Capt. Wilson went on -shore with part of the crew and such articles as he had -agreed to exchange for fresh provisions. On examining -the Intendant’s book of entries find that two English brigs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span> -from London, bound to the Cape of Good Hope, touched -here for water on the 29th ult. and also the Sloop of War -<i>Morjiana</i>, Capt. Georges, with despatches for the same -place. The Officers and Company have caught a great quantity -of fish of different kinds since we came to anchor.... -William Redding and Preserved Atwood added to the Surgeon’s -list.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">33d Day Thursday 19th Nov.</p> - -<p>First part of these 24 hours got all our wood and fresh -stock on board. The Commander and several of his Officers -dined with the Intendant. At ½ past 9 p. m. they returned -on board. Immediately got under way with a fresh breeze.... -N. B. The harbour of Port Praya is spacious, secure -and of easy entrance, with good anchorage in 10 fathoms -water. The town, also called Praya, is situated on the top -of a mountain, or rock, and encloses an extensive plain, the -houses forming nearly a circle. There is a small stone -church and four other decent buildings. Both the port and -town are well fortified, mounting at least 70 pieces of cannon. -The garrison however is most miserable, being composed -entirely of blacks without discipline, arms, or even -decent clothing. It is a singular fact that most of their -musquets are without locks. We have not the least hesitation -in saying that with thirty men we might have surprised -and taken the town. The officers of the <i>Yankee</i> feel much -gratified with the politeness and attentions they received -from the Governor General Don Antonine Cortine Del -Ancastra, and from the Intendant De Madina. They have -obtained a sufficient supply of wood and water for at least -two months, and as much live stock and fruits as they -wished to take on board. These articles were purchased<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span> -at a small expense. Port Praya Lat. 14°52′ N. Long. -23°30′ W. Same persons on the Surgeon’s list.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">34th Day Friday 20th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 14°37′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">35th Day Saturday 21st Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... No sail or land in sight. Lat. Obs. 14°22′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">36th Day Sunday 22d Nov.</p> - -<p>(Cape Verds again in sight). Lat. Obs. 14°26′. Surgeon’s -list—James Thomas, Lemuel Baker, George Gunnerson, -John Briggs, Lyman Peck, Asa Switchell, William -Redding, Ned Ingraham, Joseph Lewis, James Angell and -Gibsheet. None disabled from duty but Redding.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">37th Day Monday 23d Nov.</p> - -<p>½ past meridian the Island of Goree hove in sight distant -about 2 leagues to windward. 1 p. m. saw a schooner -under full sail standing out of Goree harbour towards us. -Piped all hands to quarters. 2 p. m. the schooner tacked -to windward; immediately tacked ship and set all sail in -chase. At 3 passed within 5 miles of Goree.<a id="FNanchor_46" href="#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> Discovered -a large English Brig and several small craft at anchor -under the fort.... Finding we came up rapidly with the -chase, and believing her to be an armed vessel, again piped -all hands to quarters and cleared for action. 9 p. m. hoisted -a light on our fore rigging, and discharged several muskets -as a signal for the chase to heave to; not obeying these signals -fired a shot under her stern; still continuing her course -fired one of the bow guns, well loaded, directly into her; -upon which she immediately bore away, and ran down close<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span> -under our lee. As she passed us Capt. Wilson hailed her -with the usual questions, and by the answers found her to -be “His Britannic Majesty’s Schooner <i>St. Jago</i>, from Goree -bound to Senegal.” After which the British Commander -hailed us and was told we were “The Armed American Brig -<i>Yankee</i>”; after which he demanded “How we dared to fire -into His Majesty’s schooner and ordered us to send our -boat on board.” Captain Wilson replied “I will not, strike -your colours or I will sink you.” Instantly His Britannic -Majesty’s Schooner wore upon her keel, and luffed up close -on the wind, to prepare (as we supposed) for action. Not -thinking it advisable to engage a King’s vessel, without -knowing her force, at close quarters during a dark night, -we resolved to wait until daylight, and therefore stood after -her under easy sail. At 11 p. m. the <i>St. Jago</i> fired a shot -which passed over us; we returned the compliment by giving -him Long Tom—doubly charged with round and langrage. -We thus returned shot for shot until 1 p. m., when -the Commander and Officers thinking it inadvisable to engage -a government vessel, where we should only get hard -blows, and probably lose some spars and men, ordered the -Master to make sail and stand to the W. S. W. to deceive -the Enemy as to our cruising station. At 2 p. m. lost sight -of him astern. The Officers and men remained at quarters -upwards of 5 hours and displayed great resolution and -courage.... Lat. Obs. 14°2′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">38th Day Tuesday 24th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Land in sight.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. -11°40′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">39th Day Wednesday 25th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 4 p. m. Edward James, one of the seamen, received<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span> -12 lashes, in the main rigging, in presence of the -whole crew, as a punishment for stealing a shirt from one -of the Marines.<a id="FNanchor_47" href="#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> John Koster struck off the Surgeon’s list—the -other invalids recovering fast—none incapable of -duty. Lat. Obs. 8°53′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">40th Day Thursday 26th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable.... No Obs.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">41st Day Friday 27th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 6 a. m. Jonathan Whitmarsh saw a sail bearing -N. b E. distant about 3 leagues. Set all sail in chase.... -7 a. m. discovered the sail to be a sloop.... 9 a. m. piped -all hands to Quarters. 10 a. m. cleared for action and fired -a gun without shot, upon which the sail bore down for us. -10.30 she came under our lee with English colours flying -at her main peak. Captain Wilson hailed her and ordered -her to strike her colours instantly, which she did accordingly. -Sent the barge on board. Found her to be the Sloop -<i>Mary Ann</i> of London, Stewart Sutherland, Master, 70 & -21/95 tons burden, copper-bottomed, armed with 4 carriage -guns and navigated by 9 persons, trading upon the coast, -with a cargo of sundries. She was last from Dick’s Cove, -bound to Sierra Leone. Upon examining the <i>Mary Ann</i> -and cargo it was not advisable to send her as a prize to -America, but to take out of her the most valuable part of -her cargo and then set her on fire. Accordingly we received -on board the <i>Yankee</i> a quantity of gold dust (value unknown), -some ivory, trade muskets, a few Calcutta goods, -and sundry small articles of no great value. We then set<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span> -fire to the <i>Mary Ann</i> and made sail on our course. The -probable value of the <i>Mary Ann</i> and her cargo might be -$12,000. Lat. Obs. 7°29′ N. Surgeon’s list James Angell, -George Gunnerson, Asa Switchell, Joseph Butman, Anson -A. Allen, John Briggs, & Samuel Boynton. Slight complaints, -none disabled from duty. The weather becomes -remarkably hot, with almost continual calms, light winds, -thunder, lightning and rain.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">42d Day Saturday 28th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... All hands employed in stowing away the ivory.... -Lat. Obs. 7°33′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">43d Day Sunday 29th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable.... Invalids recovering fast.... -Lat. Obs. 7°13′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">44th Day Monday 30th Nov.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable.... (Sail sighted but lost) -Lat. Obs. 6°47′. The weather becomes insufferably hot. -Almost continual calms, with a vertical sun.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">45th Day out—1st Dec. 1812</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 6°45′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">46th Day Wednesday 2d Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 7 a. m. Abner Midget saw a sail right ahead distant -about 5 leagues. Got out all the sweeps. 8 a. m. observed -several water spouts under the lee—squally with -flying clouds and rain. At 11 made out the chase to be a -schooner standing to the eastward. At meridian still in -chase of the schooner distant about 2 leagues. Lat. Obs. -6°55′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">47th Day Thursday 3d Dec.</p> - -<p>At meridian continued in chase of the sail ahead. ½ past<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span> -12 got out the boats to assist the sweeps by towing. Found -we came up rapidly with the chase. 2 p. m. fired a gun; -hoisted English colours; not answered. ½ past 2 p. m. -gave her a gun, upon which the chase showed English colours. -3 p. m. being distant about 1½ miles hoisted American -colours and commenced firing Long Tom, towing the -Brig all the time with the boats. 4 p. m. got the boats -astern, piped all hands to Quarters and cleared for action. -Light airs and a smooth sea. Being now within good gun -shot commenced a brisk cannonade on the starboard side. -The chase returned the fire with 4 guns, the shot frequently -falling near and one shot wounding the jib. At 20 minutes -past 4 p. m. the Enemy fired a stern-chaser, double-charged, -and instantly blew up, occasioning a tremendous explosion. -Observed the Enemy to be on fire and several men swimming -alongside. Immediately ceased firing (although her -colours were still flying) and sent out boats with Lieut. -Barton and Master Snow on board to save the lives of the -Enemy, and extinguish the fire. They took up the swimmers -and then rowed alongside. The scene that now presented -itself to their view was shocking beyond description. -The vessel was still in flames, the quarter-deck was blown -off, the Captain was found near the mainmast—naked, -mangled and burnt in the most shocking manner, one of -the seamen lay near bruised and burnt almost as bad, a -black man was found dead on the cabin floor, and five others -around him apparently dying. All these wounded men were -sent on board the <i>Yankee</i> and there received every possible -attention from the Captain, Surgeon and Officers. Dr. -Miller dressed their wounds and gave them the proper -medicines but found the Captain and several of the blacks -in a most dangerous condition. The Captain had received<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[246]</span> -two deep wounds in the head which penetrated to the skull -(probably from our langrage shot), his arms and legs were -much bruised, his skin nearly all burnt off and his whole -system greatly injured by the concussion. A small black -boy had a most singular yet distressing appearance. This -boy was literally blown out of his skin and for some time -after he came on board we thought he was white. The -sufferings of these poor fellows seemed very painful and -excruciating. Lieut. Barton extinguished the fire, sent all -the prisoners on board together with a boatload of sundry -articles taken out of the cabin which had not been consumed. -Finding the prize no ways injured except in her -quarter deck the Commander ordered Lieut. Barton with -a chosen crew to remain on board and to keep company -with us during the night. On examination of the Schooner’s -papers and log-book we found her to be the <em>Letter of -Marque</em> Schooner called <i>The Alder</i> of Liverpool, (owned -by Charles B. Whitehead) formerly called <i>La Clarisse</i> and -taken from the French, commanded by Edward Crowley, -77 tons burthen, mounting 4 carriage guns, and navigated -by 10 men, besides 11 <ins class="corr" id="tn-246" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'African crew, men'"> -African crewmen</ins>. She left Sierra -Leone 9 days ago bound to the Leeward on a trading voyage, -with an assorted cargo of Bafts,<a id="FNanchor_48" href="#Footnote_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> gunpowder, muskets, -bar-lead & iron, beads, flints and sundries. The <i>Adler</i> appears -to be about 4 years old, is copper-bottomed, measures -67 feet in length, but her sails are very poor and she does -not sail well. The probable value of this prize in America -might be $5000; but her nett value could not exceed $3000. -At 8 p. m. one of the black seamen died and was thrown -overboard. 25 minutes past 2 a. m. Captain Crowley notwithstanding -every medical assistance departed this life in -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span>the greatest agony. For some hours previous to his dissolution -he appeared to suffer excruciating torments and when -informed of his approaching end did not seem sensible of -his situation. His body was committed to the waves with -as much decency as was practicable. At 9 a. m. the boy -before mentioned also died and had a watery grave. The -white seamen and three other blacks are just wavering between -life and death and we fear can not recover.</p> - -<p>The Boatswain related to us the accident which led to the -horrid catastrophy. He said the Captain stood at the helm -steering the vessel and giving his orders; that himself and -several of the seamen were stationed at the gun aft; that -the instant it was discharged the gun capsized with great -violence, broke one of the quarter deck planks, threw the -wadd—all on fire—directly into the magazine which was -situated abaft the cabin, and the vessel instantly blew up. -(Himself and another seaman leaped into the sea when they -saw the gun dismounted and thus saved themselves.) It is -supposed the Captain was thrown from the helm into the -air and then fell into the main rigging. The blacks who -were so dreadfully mangled were in the magazine filling -cartridges. Sent the carpenter with materials to repair the -prize. At 4 a. m. came on one of the most tremendous -tornadoes ever witnessed. It blew, rained, thundered and -lightened in a truly terrific manner. Took in all sail and -kept the vessel before it. The lightning was unusually vivid -and struck several times close on board. Having no conductor -every mind was filled with apprehension and alarm. -Latter part very light airs inclining to calm. The prisoners -inform us there are several vessels of war at Sierra Leone, -to wit, a new frigate, 2 sloops of war, a gun-brig, and several -smaller vessels, all bound out on a cruise. They also<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[248]</span> -tell us of two fine brigs which lately sailed from that place -and are trading to the leeward—one of them owned by the -late Captain of the <i>Alder</i>. The <i>Alder</i> has several shot in -her sails, rigging, boat, etc. but none in her hull.<a id="FNanchor_49" href="#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> Our invalids -recovering fast. They all appeared at quarters except -Goff who had a large swelling on his right arm. Lat. -Obs. 5°53′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">48th Day Friday 4th Dec.</p> - -<p>During the greater part of these 24 hours calm with occasional -light airs. At 4 and 6 p. m. the two other black -seamen who were blown up on board the schooner died and -were thrown overboard, making altogether six persons who -have perished by this most unfortunate accident. The white -seaman is still in a most dangerous state, but the Surgeon -gives us hopes of his recovery.</p> - -<p>We were much surprised on examination of the <i>Alder’s</i> -colours to discover a <em>Pirate’s</em> flag and pendant. This circumstance -lessens our compassion for the deceased Captain -Crowley as it indicates a hostile disposition toward all mankind.... -On a consultation of officers it was deemed advisable -to man our prize, put on board of her the muskets, -bafts, iron, etc. we took out of the Sloop <i>Mary Ann</i>, send -her to Loango to dispose of her cargo for gold dust, ivory, -dyewoods, or other valuable articles, and then proceed to -America. Accordingly the Commander commissioned Daniel -Salisbury as Prize-master, together with Edward Jones -as Mate and four seamen to navigate said prize on her intended -voyage. Made out a prize commission, letter of -instructions, invoices, etc. and gave the Prize-master all -the schooner’s papers. We sent on board of her every<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[249]</span> -article we had taken out of the sloop or schooner, together -with provisions and various other necessary articles. All -hands employed in despatching the prize. Lat. Obs. 7°.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">49th Day Saturday 5th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... The wounded foreigner recovers fast and is considered -out of danger. All invalids recovered. Lat. Obs. 6°53′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">50th Day Sunday 6th Dec.</p> - -<p>At ½ past 4 p. m. saw the land.... Being Saturday -night the crew drank a health to all sweethearts and wives -and amused themselves with various diversions. The -marines chanted psalms and hymns, the sailors sang “Old -Tom Tough,” and “Old Tom Bowling,” and the officers -listened with pleasure to the merriment of the crew.<a id="FNanchor_50" href="#Footnote_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> -Sounded frequently during the night in 40, 30, 21 & 15 -fathoms of water. At daylight saw Cape Mount.... Two -canoes came from the shore with blacks. They informed -us there were no vessels of any description at the Cape, -upon which we up helm, squared the yards and bore away -to the leeward.... Lat. Obs. 6°38′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">51st Day Monday 7th Dec.</p> - -<p>At 4 p. m. two canoes came along side from Cape Little -Mount and informed us of a schooner loading with rice at -Trade-town, and also of a large brig that sailed from Monserrada -this morning bound to leeward. During the night, -not wishing to pass by Monserrada, stood off and on under -easy sail until daylight when we saw Cape Monserra distant -about 7 leagues. 10 a. m. another canoe came off who confirmed -the news relative to the brig and also mentioned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span> -(Which we regret to hear) that a sloop of war passed down -to leeward 6 days ago. Bought a few plantains and cassadas -of these natives but did not suffer them to come on board. -These Africans came off the distance of 3 or 4 leagues in -small bark canoes and were entirely naked; they most of -them spoke some English. The foreign invalid seems worse -to-day, owing no doubt to the excessive heat. Lat. Obs. -6°15′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">52d Day Tuesday 8th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 6 a. m. saw a sail right ahead distant about 4 -leagues. Set all sail in chase. 9 a. m. made out the chase -to be a brig standing in shore....</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">53d Day Wednesday 9th Dec.</p> - -<p class="center">CAPTURE OF THE ANDALUSIA</p> - -<p>Lat. 5°35′ N. Trade Town bearing N. E. distant about -4 leagues. Commences with light airs inclining to calm. -Continued in chase of the sail ahead. We now discovered -her to be a large armed brig, showing 8 ports on a side, with -English colours flying at her main peak, apparently preparing -for action. At ½ past 1 p. m. the enemy commenced -firing, heaving every shot over us. 2 p. m. he made sail -and began discharging his stern-chasers. At ½ past 2, -being within half cannon shot, we commenced firing our -Long Twelve. ¼ past 3 p. m., having approached within -half-musket shot, we opened our whole battery upon the -enemy and continued the action (the enemy keeping up a -well directed fire from his cannon and musketry) till 20 -minutes past 4 p. m.,—when observing that the Enemy’s -colours had been shot away in the early part of the engagement, -and that his fire became very faint, the Commander -gave orders to cease firing, and hailed her, enquiring if she<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span> -had struck. The enemy answered “I have.” Sent Lieut. -Barton on board and found her to be the English Letter -of Marque Brig called the <i>Andalusia</i>, Anthony Yates Kendall, -Master, 210 tons burthen, mounting 10 carriage guns, -6 twelve pound cannonades, & 4 long French nines, with -small arms, ammunition etc., navigated by a Captain, Supercargo, -and 17 white seamen, besides 81 free Africans who -served as marines. The <i>Andalusia</i> is owned at Gibraltar, -and was last from Sierra Leone bound to the Leeward with -a cargo of sundries on a trading voyage. It appears from -her Log that she captured an American brig called the <i>Two -Friends</i> off Port Praya, and carried her into Sierra Leone. -The action lasted nearly three hours from the time the first -shot was fired until the Enemy struck. We engaged him -45 minutes within pistol shot. Captain Kendall and his -Boatswain were both slightly wounded; the remainder owed -their safety to their excellent bulwark. On boarding the -prize we found her mainmast and foreyard badly wounded; -one shot under her fore-chains, which passed through and -lodged in the opposite timbers; another which entered the -cabin and lodged in the Captain’s bed; nearly all her sails, -braces, standing and running rigging shot away, and every -part of the vessel more or less injured. All the white prisoners -were sent on board the <i>Yankee</i> and Lieut. Barton with -a strong watch remained on board the prize to guard the -blacks. At 6 p. m. we made sail standing in shore, our -prize in company, and came to anchor in 20 fathoms water. -At daylight piped all hands to duty, sent part of the crew -on board the <i>Andalusia</i> to repair damages and employed -the remainder of the officers and crew in mending our sails, -splicing our rigging, cleaning the arms, landing the black -prisoners on their own shore, and other necessary duty. On<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span> -examining our vessel after the action found we had received -one 12lb shot through our bulwarks which passed out the -lee side without any material injury, 4 balls through the -main-sail, 6 shot in the foretopsail, one grape-shot lodged -in the mainmast, and the weather forebrace, and one of the -shrouds shot away. No person wounded.</p> - -<p>At 7 a. m. we discovered a schooner in shore, standing -to the northward. Weighed anchor and set sail in chase. -9 a. m. being nearly calm sent Master Snow with an armed -boats’ crew with orders to take possession of her and then -to set sail for the <i>Yankee</i>. At meridian Master Snow not -returned. Lat. Obs. 5°35′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">54th Day Thursday 10th Dec.</p> - -<p>At 4 p. m. Master Snow came to anchor under our lee -with his little prize and gave the following account of his -adventure. He said that on approaching the vessel he observed -her boat attempting to land on the beach. That she -struck on a rock, was capsized, throwing every article into -the sea, and the Captain and crew swam on shore. That on -going on board he found her entirely deserted, as he expected, -and stripped of every valuable article, except a quantity -of rice stowed in bulk. He immediately made sail and -stood for the privateer. The prisoners inform us that the -schooner is called the <i>George</i>, and owned by Mr. Carr of -Sierra Leone; that she is an American pilot boat and was -taken in the Gambia about six months ago. She appears -to be 60 or 70 tons burthen, has very poor sails and foul -bottom. No doubt if coppered, with new canvass, she would -sail remarkably well, at present she is very dull. As soon -as she came to anchor we sent all our boats to take out the -rice. We supplied our vessel and the other prize with as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span> -much of this article as was wanted, and then Captain Wilson -made a present of the vessel to Captain Sutherland, late of -the <i>Mary Ann</i>, as he had been the greatest sufferer by the -capture of his vessel, and moreover had been 15 days a prisoner -on board of the <i>Yankee</i>.</p> - -<p>At 11 a. m., having taken the parole of all the white prisoners -on board (giving them duplicates) we supplied them -with every necessary article for their voyage to Sierra Leone -and gave them all their clothes, baggage, private property -etc., bade them farewell, sent them on board the schooner, -and then made sail in company with our prize, standing -down the coast. Captains Sutherland and Kendall, Mr. -O’Connor, and all the prisoners, expressed their gratitude -and thanks for the kind treatment they had received on board -the <i>Yankee</i>. Indeed they could do no less. For the captains -lived in the cabin with the officers, the mates in the wardroom, -and the sailors were well treated by our crew. In fact -our instructions require that we shall treat our prisoners -with kindness and humanity. N.B. The supercargo of the -<i>Andalusia</i> estimated the vessel and cargo at $19,000, but I -am confident they will not sell for $9000 in America. The -<i>George</i> with her rice might be worth $800. Lat. Obs. -5°30′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">55th Day Friday 11th Dec.</p> - -<p>Having landed the Africans and dismissed the white prisoners -(amounting altogether to 145 persons) we made preparations -for sending home the <i>Andalusia</i>. Made out commission, -prize instructions and other documents for Captain -Robert Tompenny, who was appointed Prize-master, together -with William Child as Mate and 7 seamen to navigate -said prize to America. Also wrote a letter to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span> -owners giving them an abstract account of our cruise up -to the present period. At 4 p. m. gave our prize three -cheers, bade them adieu, and made all sail, standing down -the coast. During the night light winds and hazy weather. -This morning a great number of canoes along side with fish -and other articles. Exchanged some tobacco, bafts, iron -etc. for ivory and fresh provisions.... John Carter, the -Captain of Long Tom, broke his arm on board the prize -in jumping into the hold. The Surgeon set it. We have -at present no invalids on board. Two or three of the -marines are troubled with bad boils but none disabled from -duty. The Surgeon thought it best to send the poor fellow -who was blown up on board the <i>Alder</i> to Sierra Leone under -the care of Captain Sutherland. Lat. Obs. 4°59′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">56th Day Saturday 12th Dec.</p> - -<p>At 6 p. m. came to anchor in 15 fathoms of water in a -sandy bottom, opposite the town of Settakroo (about 60 -miles to the windward of Cape Palmas) at the distance of -about three miles from the shore.... At daylight piped -all hands to duty and sent both our boats, with a number -of canoes, to fill our water. We are told this is the safest -place to water from Goree to Cape Palmas, as the anchorage -is good, the landing easy, and the water most excellent. -His Majesty the King of Settakroo came on board. He is -an old man and wears a mantle. His subjects are entirely -naked. His son called Grand Loo, whom we took out of -the <i>Andalusia</i>, has been of great assistance to us in our -traffic with the natives for ivory and fresh stock. There -are upwards of a hundred canoes alongside, dressed in the -robe of Paradise, who talk and chatter and scream like a -set of monkeys or parrots. Lat. Obs. 4°42′.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">57th Day Sunday 13th Dec.</p> - -<p>These 24 hours filled our water, bought two fine bullocks, -five goats, and a quantity of fowls, yams, plantains etc. -At 7 p. m. unmoored and made sail, standing down the -coast.... At sunrise calm and no land in sight. Killed -one of the bullocks. A number of fishing canoes alongside.... -Lat. Obs. 4°42′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">58th Day Monday 14th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 5 p. m. hove to off the town of Grand Sisters, -distant about 3 miles. Sent our barge on shore to land Tom -Wilson, whom we had taken prisoner on the <i>Mary Ann</i>. -This fellow, son to the King of Grand Sisters, has been -of great assistance to us in filling our water, and trading -with the natives for live stock, ivory etc. He speaks good -English and is an honest, intelligent negro. When our -barge landed we observed a vast collection of the natives -on the beach. Grand Sisters appears to be a large town, -composed of a great number of huts, situated in the midst -of palm groves and rice fields. The adjacent scenery has -really a very pleasing and picturesque appearance. This -town is at war with little Sisters, their neighbors and the -natives showed great apprehension in coming off to our -vessel.... The canoes alongside say no vessels have -passed here this month. At meridian Cape Palmas in sight.... -This Cape has no distinguishing appearance except -a small rise in the land & trees. Watch employed in painting -the ship. Thermometer 106 in the sun. Lat. <ins class="corr" id="tn-255" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'Obs. 4, 17.'"> -Obs. 4°17′.</ins></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">59th Day Tuesday 15th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Killed the other bullock. At meridian sailing the -Bay of St. Andrews. The land here rises considerably and -is covered with trees to the very top. No appearance of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span> -cultivation. <ins class="corr" id="tn-256" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'Lat. 4, 38.'"> -Lat. 4°38′.</ins> Carter recovers fast; the other -invalids recovered.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">60th Day Wednesday 16th Dec.</p> - -<p>As you approach the Bay of St. Andrews the land gradually -rises to a considerable height, and is covered with -lofty trees to the summit. There are no towns visible.... -Running down the Gold Coast with great velocity in hopes -of capturing several vessels which we understand are trading -at Cape Lahore. At 8 a. m. a canoe came off from -Picininni, Cape Lahore, who informed us a brig, mounting -6 guns, and a sloop unarmed left Grand Cape Lahore 7 days -ago, bound down to Cape Corse Castle. This is bad news. -These natives brought off gold dust and ivory but would -receive nothing but powder and iron. Therefore we did -not trade with them.... Thermometer 112° Lat. Obs. -4°58′ N.... We have now been at sea two months being -one third of our cruise. During this time we have taken -four prizes, 18 carriage guns, 250 stand small arms, 145 -prisoners, and property to the value of $60,000. Our Officers -and crew are all healthy and in good spirits. And we -have water and provisions for at least three months on -board.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">61st Day Thursday 17th Dec.</p> - -<p>At 2 p. m. Antonio, King of Cape Lahore, attended by -13 of his nobility came off in a war canoe. His Majesty -confirmed the news we received this morning relative to -the brig and sloop. These natives are as black as ebony, -remarkably stout, well made, of a ferocious aspect, and -their hair and beards platted in the most fantastic style. -They wished to exchange gold and ivory for powder, rum -and muskets, but we did not trade with them. After King<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span> -Antonio had got as drunk as David’s sow we were obliged -to force him and his cannibals to go on shore. Cape Lahore -has no distinguishing mark from the neighboring coast -which is flat and sandy. Lat. 5°5′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">62d Day Friday 18th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 5°5′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">63d Day Saturday 19th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 20 minutes past 9 a. m. Samuel Pickens discovered -a brig at anchor ... supposed to be under Fort Apollonia.... -All sails set.... At meridian the Fort bore -right ahead, distant about six leagues.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">64th Day Sunday 20th Dec.</p> - -<p>Lieut. Barton piped for volunteers to man the barge and -cut out the brig mentioned in yesterday’s journal. Nearly -the whole crew volunteered. From whom Mr. Barton selected -21 of the most able and experienced seamen, who -were properly armed for the purpose. At 4 p. m. piped -to quarters and cleared for action. It was understood that -the <i>Yankee</i> should run in under English colours until she -came within half-cannon shot of the brig, then send our -barge on board the brig with the Lieutenant, another officer, -and 6 bargemen only visible, the remainder being concealed -under the sail. Accordingly at ¾ past 4 p. m. we rounded -to within musket shot of the enemy and sent off the barge. -In 6 minutes she had possession of the prize and immediately -made sail, standing out to sea close on a wind. The -<i>Yankee</i> did the same, previously firing the two shot directly -into the Fort; which (strange to tell) was not returned. -Lieut. Barton mentions that when he came alongside, and -jumped on board with the whole boat’s crew completely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span> -armed, the Captain instantly surrendered himself and his -vessel. We find our prize to be the English copper-bottomed -brig called the <i>Fly</i> of London, late Captain Jonathan -Tydeman, 91 52/92 tons burthen, mounting 6 carriage-guns, -long sixes, with ammunition, small arms etc. and -navigated by a Captain and ten seamen beside negroes. The -<i>Fly</i> was formerly a French privateer, built in the Isle of -France, and condemned at the Cape of Good Hope. She -is a handsome new vessel, sails remarkably well, and has -a valuable cargo of gold-dust, ivory, gunpowder and drygoods. -She captured on the 29th October last a Portuguese -sloop called the <i>New Constitution</i>, (supposed to be American -property) with 8 slaves on board, and sent her to -Sierra Leone for trial. The invoice of the <i>Fly’s</i> cargo at -the time she left London amounted to £6810, 2s, 5d, but -her cargo is not calculated to sell in America. The prize -and cargo, including the gold-dust, may be reasonably estimated -at $15,000. Captain Tydeman states that altho the -Castle at Apollonia mounts 50 heavy cannon, yet it has no -garrison, but is the residence of several factors. Capt. T. -says he supposed us to be an English man of war and therefore -made no preparations for defending his vessel. During -the night stood out to sea, our prize in company. At daylight -piped up all hands & made preparations for sending -home the prize. Took the paroles of all prisoners, giving -them duplicates. At 8 a. m. being in sight of land, we -sent the prisoners on shore (according to their own request) -in their own long boat—giving them all their clothes, baggage -and private property besides several presents. Took -out of our prize some gunpowder, rum, porter, livestock -and various small articles, supplying her with water and -sundries for her voyage. Made out Prize Commission, Instructions,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span> -wrote a letter to the owners and sent Capt. -Thomas Milton Prize Master of said brig, and at 11 p. m. -bade him adieu and made sail on our course. Lat. Obs. -4°41′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">65th Day Monday 21st Dec.</p> - -<p>At 7 p. m. passed our prize, gave them three cheers, and -finally took leave of them.<a id="FNanchor_51" href="#Footnote_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> ... The Commander thinks -it advisable to leave the coast as no doubt there are men of -war in pursuit of us both from the windward and leeward. -Lat. Obs. 4°23′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">66th Day Tuesday 22d Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... We are now running for Annabona for the purpose -of watering and then proceeding on our cruise. Andrew -Holden and several seamen indisposed and on the Surgeon’s -list. Carter gets better fast. Lat. Obs. 3°31′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">67th Day Wednesday 23d Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable.... Lat. Obs. 2°55′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">68th Day Thursday 24th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable.... Lat. Obs. 2°18′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">69th Day Friday 25th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Killed the fatted calf, or more properly the fatted -goat, gave the crew a pudding with extra allowance of grog, -to keep a Merry Christmas. All hands in good health -and fine spirits. Thermometer 88° in the cabin. No -doubt our friends in Bristol are now shivering with the -cold under the icicles and snow banks of their frozen climate. -Lat. Obs. 1°45′ N. Long. Lunar at 9 a. m. 3° E.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">70th Day Saturday 26th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 1°25′ N.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">71st Day Sunday 27th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 1°21′ N. Lunar -Obs. at 10 a. m. 5°20′ E.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">72d Day Monday 28th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 2 p. m. discovered a sail bearing two points on -the lee bow. 4 p. m. spoke the Portuguese schooner (or -boat) 14 or 16 tons burthen, called the <i>Antonia de Santa -Rosa de Lima</i>, Capt. Felix, 5 days out from St. Thomas’ -bound to Princes’ Island, with 27 slaves on board. The -captain and crew, 9 in number, were all black.<a id="FNanchor_52" href="#Footnote_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> He said -there were no vessels of any kind at St. Thomas’ and he -has seen none since he sailed.... Lat. Obs. 1°7′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">73d Day Tuesday 29th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 34′ N. Lieut. Vinson -indisposed.<a id="FNanchor_53" href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">74th Day Wednesday 30th Dec.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Surgeon’s list. Lieut. Vinson, Mr. Andrew Holden, -N. A. Slocum, Jas. Holden, John Carter, etc. None dangerous.<a id="FNanchor_54" href="#Footnote_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> -Lat. Obs. 30′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">75th Day Thursday 31st Dec.</p> - -<p>As you approach the Island of St. Thomas from the -westward, the land gradually rises from the northern and -southern extremities till it forms a high mountain in the -centre covered with clouds. This island appears to be covered -with trees except on a few level spots where there -are green fields. At the northeast point there are two hummocks,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span> -which on approaching you find to be the Island of -Anna de Chaves. At ½ after 6 p. m. came to anchor in -20 fathoms of water. [Here follow some of the “ranges” -taken.] At 8 a. m. the Commander and clerk went on -shore, waited upon the Governor and Fiscal; were received -with attention and politeness; obtained permission to fill -their water, and were promised a supply of live-stock, vegetables -and fruit. The Governor invited them to dine on -shore but Capt. W. declined, wishing to return on board -to expedite the watering. The Governor had no information -of the war between England and America. A British -vessel touched at St. Thomas’ lately, who said all differences -were settled between the governments. He informed -us of a large English Letter of Marque Ship, mounting 18 -guns, with 45 men, loading with camwood in Gaboon River. -He says the <i>Amelia</i> Frigate is expected at the island, and -that most of the men of war on the coast touch at the island -for supplies. Both the officers spoke in high terms of America, -were pleased to find that our governments were still -on amicable terms, and expressed the greatest indignation -against British Power, Pride, Injustice and Insolence. They -were rejoiced that we had met with success on our cruise, -and appeared entirely friendly in every respect. Surgeon’s -List. Mr. Holden Lieut. V. and Slocum recovered and -struck off the list.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">76th Day Friday 1st January 1813</p> - -<p>The first part of this day filled our water from a fine -clear rapid river, situated about 100 yards from the white -house on the beach, cut as much wood as was necessary. -At 4 p. m. (Thursday afternoon) an officer came on board -with the Governor’s compliments, and mentioned that he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span> -would supply us with every article we wanted as soon as -possible, and send them on board in canoes without obliging -us to beat up to the city. Sent a note expressive of our -thanks on the occasion. At 9 a. m. the Commander and -clerk again visited his Excellency Don Raymond da Cunha -Matos and were received as yesterday with great politeness -and civility. It being a great holiday they attended church, -(N. B. The priests, monks and whole congregation were -mulattoes or blacks) saw a procession civil and military -composed of the principal inhabitants, with two bands of -music, and the Virgin Mary, parading the streets. Dined -with the Governor, had a most excellent dinner, with all -kinds of vegetables, fruits, sweetmeats, liquors and wines; -remained on shore the rest of the day as it came on to rain -very heavy. The Governor having sent on board every -article we wanted, paid him the amount in cloth and gold, -bade him and the Fiscal adieu, returned on board, and at -11 p. m. weighed anchor and stood out to sea with a fair -wind.<a id="FNanchor_55" href="#Footnote_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a>St. Thomas’ is a beautiful, fertile island, producing -coffee in great abundance and of a superior quality; also -corn, spices, vegetables and fruits of every description, cattle -and other livestock, turtle, fish, etc. The town is in the -form of a half moon, is situated at the head of a fine bay, -and may contain three hundred houses, interspersed among -gardens, plantain groves and coffee trees. Most of the -buildings are small, many of them in ruins, and the remainder -by no means elegant. The fort, or castle, as you enter -the bay on the left hand mounts 40 pieces of cannon, with -a garrison of 100 men. The Governor informed us he had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span> -information of two small English brigs loading in the -Gaboon, besides the ship mentioned yesterday which he -understood was now at the Cameroons. Upon the whole -the Commander of the <i>Yankee</i> was much gratified with his -reception at St. Thomas’, and pleased to find these officers -so favorably disposed toward the American government.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">77th Day Saturday 2d Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Invalids all recovered. Lat. -Obs. 16′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">78th Day Sunday 3d Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lieut. Vinson and Asa -Switcher incapable of duty. John Carter, James Holden, -J. C. Lindegard, and several indisposed with slight complaints. -Lat. Obs. 6′ South.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">79th Day Monday 4th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable.... Excessively hot, Thermometer -90° at midnight, being on the Line. Lat. Obs. -4′ North.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">80th Day Tuesday 5th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 7 p. m. came to anchor at the mouth of the -Gaboon River in ten fathoms of water.... Immediately -piped for volunteers to man the barge and explore the river -to discover any strange sails. Master Snow appointed to -command the expedition, and 21 brave fellows selected to -accompany him. They were all completely armed and supplied -with every article necessary for their night campaign. -At 20 m. past 7 P. M. the barge left the <i>Yankee</i> with the -best wishes of their remaining companions for their success -and safe return. During the night calm and intolerably -hot. At 9 a. m. discovered two large boats in shore rowing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[264]</span> -toward us full of men. Piped all hands to Quarters, cleared -for action and got a spring on the cable. Shortly after two -African princes came on board, who informed us there was -a small Portuguese schooner loading with slaves high up -the river, and that an English Cutter arrived three days -ago at King Glas’ Town, near the mouth of the river. From -their description of the vessel, Captain and cargo we were -clearly convinced that this Cutter was no other than our -prize the <i>Alder</i>, Capt. Salsberry. Capt. S. passed as an -English vessel and told the natives he had been fired at by -a Portuguese ship at Rio Pungus, and that one shot stove -his boat; that he had been struck by lightning during a -tornado, which blew up his quarter deck and killed the -former captain and five seamen. This ingenious deception -does much credit to our Prize-Master. These Africans -further told us that the two brigs we heard of at St. Thomas’ -sailed with valuable cargoes two weeks ago, and that the -ship had not arrived. At meridian the barge returned on -board and Master Snow informed us that they had proceeded -up the river at least twelve leagues, that they saw -no English vessels, but heard of the Portuguese schooner; -that on their return they boarded the cutter mentioned above -and found her to be really our prize the <i>Alder</i>. Capt. Salisberry -stated he had met a great deal of bad weather and lost -some spars, but saw no enemy. He arrived in the river -five days since, was making a rapid and profitable trade -for ivory, wax, skins and wood, and expected to sail in -about a week for America. Himself and crew were in -good health. Surgeon’s list. Lieut. Vinson, James Holden, -J. C. Lindegard recovered, Carter nearly recovered and -Switcher better. Lat. Obs. 37′ N.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">81st day ... Wednesday 6th Jan.</p> - -<p>At meridian weighed anchor and stood out of the Gaboon -River bound down the coast.... Nothing remarkable. -Lat. Obs. 18′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">82d Day Thursday 7th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable.... No observation.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">83d Day Friday 8th Jan.</p> - -<p>During these 24 hours (as usual) variable winds, calms, -squalls, thunder, lightning and heavy rain. All hands employed -about ship’s duty presenting a very busy and amusing -scene. Lat. Obs. 31′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">84th Day Saturday 9th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... All sail set, bound to Annabona for supply, and from -thence to the Island of St. Helena, one of our cruising stations. -Long. from Lunar Obs. at 3 o’clock p. m. 8°40′—Lat. -Obs. 1°22′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">85th Day Sunday 10th Jan.</p> - -<p>Annabona bearing W. N. W. 3 leagues. At 5 p. m. saw -the land 2 points on the lee bow. ¼ past 5 discovered a -sail 4 points on the weather bow, took in studding-sails and -luffed up close on a wind in chace.... At 10 p. m. discovered -by the help of our night glasses that the chace was -a brig standing to the westward. Shortened sail and kept -in company during the night. At daylight made all sail to -come up with the chace. Observed she had hove to; hoisted -English colours & showed 7 ports on a side. Piped all -hands to quarters and cleared for action. At 7 a. m. came -alongside and ordered her to strike her colours, which she -did accordingly. Sent the barge on board and found our -prize to be the English Brig <i>Thames</i>, late Francis Toole<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span> -Master, 171 tons burthen, mounting 8 carriage guns (4-12 -lbs & 4 long nines) with small arms, ammunition, etc. from -Mayjumba, coast of Africa, bound to London, navigated -by 14 persons, with a cargo of camwood, some goods and -ivory. Took the prisoners on board the <i>Yankee</i>, and sent -Capt. George Eddy as Prize-Master, with <ins class="corr" id="tn-266" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'N. M. Slocun'"> -N. M. Slocum</ins> -and 8 seamen to navigate said vessel to America. Gave -said Prize-Master the vessel’s papers, his Commission, Instructions, -Letter to the Owners etc. and then bade him -farewell. The <i>Thames</i> is copper-bottomed, thoroughly repaired, -and carries a large cargo. This vessel and cargo -may be reasonably estimated at $25,000.</p> - -<p>N. B. On the very day and hour of our capturing the -<i>Thames</i> our Commander was born—27 years ago.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">86th Day Monday 11th Jan.</p> - -<p>At 5 p. m. came to anchor on the north side of the Island -of Annabona in 7 fathoms water, sandy bottom, opposite -a small village distant about a mile from the shore.... -Soon after we came to, the black Governor and his mate -came on board. We easily obtained permission to water, -wood etc.... Having finished our trade and filled our -water at 20 m before 12 a. m. we got under weigh.... -This island is 7 or 8 leagues in circumference and is remarkable -for a lofty mountain covered with orange, lime -and cocoanut trees. It has a fertile and beautiful appearance.</p> - -<div id="day86"></div> -<p><em>It is with deep regret</em> that the Commander of the <i>Yankee</i> -feels it his duty in justice to himself, his Officers and his -crew, to make the following entry in his Journal, relative -to the conduct of one of his officers.—My Second Lieutenant -John H. Vinson, has never, in my opinion, displayed either<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span> -seamanship, judgment or courage during our cruise. He -appeared to be much intoxicated on the night of the partial -engagement with His Majesty’s Schooner <i>St. Jago</i>, and -behaved with great impropriety. During the skirmish with -the <i>Alder</i> he was particularly negligent in not extinguishing -the flames when our bulwarks were on fire. And during -the long engagement with the <i>Andalusia</i> he certainly did -not manifest either activity or courage. This officer is -guilty of one offence which would subject him even to capital -punishment—viz—<em>sleeping on his watch</em>. The night -after we captured the <i>Fly</i>, when we had a number of prisoners -on board, and many of our crew had got drunk on -board the prize, and were extremely riotous, Lieut. Vinson -was himself much intoxicated, or to speak plainly <em>dead -drunk</em>, and slept in his watch in presence of myself, my -officers, and the whole crew. He was guilty of the same -offence on the 5th January when we lay at the Gaboon, and -also last night when we had 14 prisoners on board, and -were anchored on a savage coast. This offence of getting -drunk and sleeping on a watch is of a very serious and -alarming nature, endangering both the safety of the vessel -and the lives of all on board. His conduct subjects him -to a court martial which will certainly convince him of his -errors.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">87th Day Tuesday 12th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 4 p. m. exercised all hands at quarters; after -which piped all hands to muster and found our crew now -consisted of 71 men.... Lat. Obs. 1°25′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">88th Day Wednesday 13th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... John Carter recovered and struck off the Surgeon’s -list. No invalids. Nothing worthy of remark. Lat. Obs. -1°53′ S.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">89th Day Thursday 14th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable.... Lat. Obs. 2°39′ S. No -invalids.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">90th Day Friday 14th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Lat. Obs. 3°16′ S.... <em>We have now</em> been at sea -3 months, one half of our cruise, and 97 days from Bristol -where our cruise commenced. During this time we have -taken 6 prizes, measuring 685 tons, mounting 34 carriage -guns, 525 stand of arms, and 150 prisoners.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">91st Day Saturday 16th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable.—Lat. Obs. 4°23′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">92d Day Sunday 17th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... All hands in excellent health. Being Saturday (Sunday) -night all hands enjoyed the jubilee and drank to their -sweethearts and wives. Our prisoners are mostly Irishmen -and seem to be quiet and well disposed. Lat. Obs. 5°55′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">93d Day Monday 18th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 6°33′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">94th Day Tuesday 19th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 7°13′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">95th Day Wednesday 20th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 7°53′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">96th Day Thursday 21st Jan.</p> - -<p>At ¼ Past 5 p. m. came to anchor off the N. W. end of -Ascension Island.... Sent the barge on shore for the -purpose of taking turtle during the night.... At 8 a. m. -the barge returned on board with a fine large turtle, weighing -at least 400 lbs., and containing several thousand eggs—the -only one seen on the beach during the night. At 9 a. m.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span> -again dispatched the barge and Capt. Wilson went on shore -in the jolly-boat, to endeavor to procure more turtle. Wrote -a letter, or memorandum, mentioning the arrival of the -Privateer <i>Yankee</i> at this island; her successful cruise, number -of captures, guns, prisoners, value, etc.; also the declaration -of war against England, and its principal events;—which -letter we directed to any American captains who -might hereafter touch at this island. This letter was deposited -among the rocks, being anchored in a bottle, where -we observed a number of names engraved, particularly the -following “Young Dickenson, J. W. Costa, 1813,” and -“The Crescent Leach, 1812.” ½ past 11 a. m. the boats -returned on board without any success. The officers and -seamen caught a great number of fish, and killed a quantity -of birds—neither fit to eat. The Island of Ascension is -3 leagues in length and 2 in breadth. It is composed of -several hills or hummocks covered with a reddish earth, and -has a very rugged and craggy appearance. It was evidently -thrown up by some convulsion of nature. It is not inhabited -and produces neither tree, fruit or vegetable—nay not even -fresh water. There are some miserable lean wild goats -and innumerable ship rats. The island is principally remarkable -for the vast quantity of turtle which resort here -to deposit their eggs during certain months of the year. -These turtle are easily taken during the night by concealing -yourself on the beach, rushing suddenly upon them when -they come on shore, and capsizing them. They are said -to be of the finest and most delicious kind. Joseph Anthony, -coxswain of the barge, was very badly bruised when she -capsized in the surf, and Zep. Andrews cut his hand very -severely in butchering the turtle. It is singular that our -crew receive more wounds from their own negligence than<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span> -the shot of the enemy. Ascension—7°56′ South Lat. -13°54′ West Long.<a id="FNanchor_56" href="#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">97th Day Friday 22d Jan.</p> - -<p>The officers and company feasted most luxuriously on -the fine turtle they caught the preceding night.... Caught -another large turtle during the night. At 7 a. m. got in -the barge, weighed anchor, and stood out to sea.... Anthony -and Andrews much better. Lat. Obs. 7°53′. Variation -by a correct Amplitude taken while at anchor in -Ascension Roads 15°12′ W.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">98th Day Saturday 23d Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... The Surgeon performed a surgical operation on -James Anthony, by cutting out a wen or protuberance on -his right cheek. Dr. Miller seems to be quite proficient in -the use of the knife and lancet. Lat. Obs. 8° S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">99th Day Sunday 24th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Killed our large turtle and all hands had a Sunday -feast. It was superexcellent. No invalids. Lat. Obs. 8° S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">100th Day Monday 25th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 8°15′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">101st Day Tuesday 26th Jan.</p> - -<p>At 9 a. m. piped all hands to Vendue and sold a quantity -of prize goods, viz, shirts, cloth, linen, razors, knives, cloaks, -flannel, etc. etc. to the officers and crew to furnish them -with clothes for their cruise and when they arrive on a winter’s -coast. Lat. 8°6′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">102d Day Wednesday 27th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing worthy of remark. Lat. Obs. 7°53′ S. -Long. Lunar 29°35′ W.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">103d Day Thursday 28th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Lat. Obs. 7°52′ S. Lunar Obs. 32°7′ W.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">104th Day Friday 29th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 8°8′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">105th Day Saturday 30th Jan.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... 7 a. m. saw several small Portuguese fishing boats, -called Jangars. ½ past 7 a. m. made the land bearing right -ahead, distant 7 or 8 leagues. The land appeared low, with -a number of towers or churches on the coast, and the town -of Olinde situated on the side of a hill, making a beautiful -appearance. 9 a. m. discovered several large vessels at -anchor in the harbour of Pernambuco. 11 a. m. spoke a -Portuguese schooner just out of Pernambuco, bound to -windward; informed us there were no English men of war -on the coast—that there were three large British ships in -harbour, loading, and two American schooners laid up without -cargoes. They had heard of no American privateers -on this station. 11 a. m. jibed ship in chace of a sail distant -4 or 5 miles.... Lat. Obs. 8°12′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">106th Day Sunday 31st Jan.</p> - -<p>Pernambuco bearing N. W. distant 8 or 10 leagues. At -1 p. m. piped all hands to quarters, ran down under the lee -of a large armed English brig, pierced for 16 guns, and -mounting 8. When within pistol shot ordered her to strike -her colours—the reply was “We are all ready”—and hesitated. -Capt. Wilson again ordered him to lower his flag -and quit the deck or he would fire into him. The reply was -“Surely you are joking.” Our Commander still ordered -his men not to fire, and a third time ordered him to strike -instantly, which he did with great reluctance. Sent our -boat on board and found our prize to be the large armed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span> -English Brig called the <i>Harriott and Matilda</i> <ins class="corr" id="tn-272" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: 'of Mayport,'"> -of Maryport,</ins> Captain John Inman, burthen 262 tons, copper-bottomed, -mounting 8 carriage guns—6 twelve and 2 eighteen pound -cannonades, from Cork bound to Pernambuco, with a cargo -of salt, porter, iron, drygoods, earthenware, butter, cheese, -potatoes etc. etc. The <i>Harriott and Matilda</i> was captured -from the Danes in 1808, sails well, and is a fine vessel. The -vessel and cargo may be reasonably valued at $27,000. Took -the prisoners on board and beat off the land during the -night. At 7 p. m. sent 18 prisoners ashore in our barge, -which we gave them, with all their clothes, baggage, a compass, -water, provisions etc. being at this time within 7 -leagues of Pernambuco. During the latter part of these -24 hours all hands employed in taking out the following -articles from the prize, viz—16 hampers cheese, 56 do Irish -potatoes, 20 kegs of butter, 6 casks bottled porter, 20 gallons -Rum, and 31 bales of fine merchandise. The <i>Harriott -and Matilda</i> sailed from Cork under convoy of the <i>Frolic</i> -(<i>Cherub?</i>) sloop of war, and parted from him three days -before. The convoy consisted of 6 East Indiamen, and -several others bound to Rio Janeiro. It is worthy of remark -that the <i>Yankee</i> ran from Ascension to Cape St. Augustine, -a distance of 1200 miles, in 7½ days—fresh trades, pleasant -weather, a smooth sea, and all sails set, scarcely ever -moving tack or sheet. Lat. Obs. 8°29′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">107th Day Monday 1st Feb.</p> - -<p>All hands employed in sending away the prize. Made out -Commission, Letter of Instructions, wrote a letter to the -owners, and gave the ship’s papers to the Prize-Master, -Richard M. Coit, with a crew of 12 men. At 4 p. m. gave -our prize three cheers and bade her adieu. At 9 a. m. having<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span> -taken the paroles of all the prisoners, we gave Capts. -Toole and Inman the long boat of the prize, supplied them -with every necessary article, and being within 6 leagues -of Pernambuco, they went on shore. Capt. Toole had been -21 days a prisoner and behaved very well during the whole -time. 10 a. m. saw a sail bearing S. E. at a great distance. -Lat. Obs. 8°4′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">108th Day Tuesday 2d Feb.</p> - -<p>At 1 p. m. discovered a sail on the lee bow at a great distance. -At 3 p. m. having approached within 2½ miles of -the sail mentioned in yesterday’s journal made her out to -be an English sloop of war in disguise. Immediately up -helm, set staysails, and bore away N. b E. The enemy -did the same and set all sail, showing a cloud of canvas. -We were glad to observe that we soon altered his bearings, -& at sundown left him astern, distant about 3 or 4 leagues.... -On mustering the crew find we have 62 persons on -board, including boys and negroes, also 3 prisoners. Lat. -Obs. 8°14′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">109th Day Wednesday 3d Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... ½ after 5 p. m. saw several sails, made all sail in -chace, but soon discovered them to be Jangars, or fishing -boats. Lat. 7°53′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">110th Day Thursday 4th Feb.</p> - -<p>At 3 p. m. having run down opposite Pernambuco ... -hoisted the American pendant and colours, and hauled up -close on the wind, bound to Fernando Noronha for a supply -of water. Lat. Obs. 9°17′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">111th Day Friday 5th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Lat. Obs. 7°29′ S.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">112th Day Saturday 6th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Lat. Obs. 5°56′.—Long. Lunar 33°50′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">113th Day Sunday 7th Feb.</p> - -<p>At ½ past 5 a. m. the Island of Fernando Noronha—½ -past 7 saw a sail 2 points under the lee bow. Made all -sail in chace. At ½ past 10 a. m. came up with the chace -and found her to be our prize the <i>Alder</i>, Salisberry Master, -being the second time we have spoken him. Sent for Capt. -Salisberry on board, who informed us that he left the -Gaboon on the 11th ult.—that he has seen no sail, that his -schooner sailed well and was in good order, that his crew -were all healthy except James Thomas—whom we took on -board, and sent one of our prisoners in his stead,—and that -he had a full cargo of the following articles; viz. 50 oz -gold dust, 45 tons red-wood, 1 do ivory, ½ do bees wax, -700 lbs gum copal. Took the gold on board, supplied Capt. -S. with some bread, rice, butter, porter, etc. and at meridian -gave him three cheers and bade him adieu. Lat. Obs. 3°43′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">114th Day Monday 8th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... ½ Past 7 a. m. came to anchor in 13 fathoms water, -hard bottom, in a convenient harbour at the N. W. end of -Fernando Noronha, distant about ¾ of a mile from the -shore. The Commander sent Lieut. Barton to ask permission -of the Governor to obtain wood and water. He was -received in the most friendly manner and the petition was -at once granted. The Governor informed Lieut. B. that -the <i>Morjiana</i> and <i>Acosta</i>, British Frigates, touched at this -island last December, bound to India; and that the American -ship <i>John</i> of Salem, also touched here on the 14th Jan. -1813. 11 a. m. sent the boat to fill water, which is very -difficult to obtain....</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">115th Day Tuesday 9th Feb.</p> - -<p>At 5 p. m. got up the anchor and dropped down nearer -the watering place.... Both boats employed in getting off -wood and water. Owing to the heavy surf which breaks -over the rocks find it very difficult to take off the water. -However got 9 casks on board and two boat loads of wood. -Master Snow and Lieut. Barton on shore finishing our affairs, -i.e. filling the rest of the water, buying fresh stock, -etc. etc. All hands busy, some in the boats, others in the -hold, many overhauling the rigging, slushing the masts, etc. -no idlers, everyone anxious to leave the famous (or perhaps -<em>infamous</em>) island of Fernando Noronha.<a id="FNanchor_57" href="#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> James -Thomas, the seaman we took out of the <i>Alder</i>, is dangerously -sick of a fever he caught in the Gaboon.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">116th Day Wednesday 10 Feb.</p> - -<p>Messrs. Snow, Barton and Miller dined on shore with -the Governor. They were treated with great civility and -politeness. The Governor expressed his satisfaction at our -having captured 14 English vessels, and mentioned that an -American Consul touched at this island on the 13th Dec. -last, on his way to Pernambuco. Having got all wood and -water on board, and also a fine bullock, at 4 p. m. weighed -anchor and stood out to sea, with fresh trades and fine -weather—course N. N. W. bound towards HOME.... -Thomas is something better but still dangerous. Lat. Obs. -1°33′ S.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">117th Day Thursday 11th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Nothing worth noting. Lat. Obs. 30′ S.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center"><ins class="corr" id="tn-276" title="Transcriber’s Note—Original text: this heading was missing"> -118th Day Friday 12th Feb.</ins></p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 3 p. m. being Lieut. Vinson’s watch, a squall -struck us with all sail standing, and nearly capsized the -ship. Instantly the other officers ran upon deck and let fly -halyards and sheets and kept her before it. As soon as the -squall was over Captain Wilson put Lieut. Vinson under -arrest for this and various other offences during the cruise -(See <a href="#day86">ante</a>). Afterwards on his acknowledging his errors -and promising to reform Captain Wilson reinstated him -in his command.... No Obs.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">119th Day Saturday 13th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Thomas is better. Lat. Obs. 4°16′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">120th Day Sunday 14th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... [Nothing worth noting.] Lat. Obs. 6°22′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">121st Day Monday 15th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... [Nothing worth noting.] Lat. Obs. 8°35′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">122d Day Tuesday 16th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... [Nothing worth noting.] Lat. Obs. 11°2′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">123 Day Wednesday 17th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Thomas is out of danger. Lat. Obs. 13°30′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">124th Day Thursday 18th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Thomas is much better. Lat. Obs. 15°37′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">125th Day Friday 19th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Distance 203 miles—Lat. Obs. 18°13′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">126th Day Saturday 20th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Thomas is not so well. Lat. Obs. 20°52′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">127th Day Sunday 31st Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... [Nothing remarkable.] Lat. Obs. 23°14′ N. Long. -Lunar Obs. at 9 a. m. 52°12′ W.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">128th Day Monday 22d Feb.</p> - -<p>At 6 a. m. discovered a sail one point on the lee bow.—At<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span> -8 discovered the sail to be a brig.... At 10 made sail -in chace of the ship ... distant about 3 leagues. Lat. -Obs. 25°14′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">129th Day Tuesday 23d Feb.</p> - -<p>Continued in chace of the sail ahead. At 2 p. m. fired -a gun and hoisted the American flag, upon which the chace -showed Portuguese colours and hove to. At 4 p. m. sent -the boat on board and found her to be the Portuguese ship -<i>Amazon</i>, Captain Francis Antonia, 24 days out from Lisbon, -bound to Boston with a cargo of salt. Capt. A. informed -us that on the 15th inst. he saw a sail ahead but -did not speak her—that there were a great number of Americans -at Lisbon and Cadiz, who were bound home under -neutral colours. Lord Wellington had visited Lisbon and -Cadiz for a few days and returned to his army. The -English told Capt. A. that their fleets had burnt and destroyed -Charleston and Philadelphia (This is very improbable)<a id="FNanchor_58" href="#Footnote_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> -At 5 p. m. made sail on our course. Lat. Obs. -26°16′ N.—Long. Lunar Obs. 10 a. m. 55°27′ W. Var. -Ev. Amp. 5°20′ W. Thomas is much better.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">130 Day Wednesday 24th Feb.</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At 11 a. m. discovered a sail on the lee bow, apparently -a brig standing close hauled to the eastward under -royals with his course hauled up. Observed the sail immediately -to bear away in chace of us. Tacked ship and made -all sail to avoid the chace, or at least to discover how she -sailed. Gentle breezes, a smooth and pleasant weather. -11-40 a. m. finding we dropped the chace very fast again -tacked ship.... At meridian the sail bears 2 points on -the lee bow, distant 12 or 14 miles. Lat. Obs. 270°3′ N.—Long. -Lunar 56°42′ W.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[278]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">131st Day Thursday 25th Feb.</p> - -<p>Made all sail in chace. At 3 p. m. fired a gun, upon which -the chace showed English colours. ½ past 3 she hove to -with her maintopsail aback. Piped all hands to quarters -and cleared for action. ¼ before 4 the enemy got under -weigh to engage us. At 4 p. m. being within good gun shot -commenced a brisk cannonade on the starboard side which -the enemy returned. 10 minutes past 4 p. m. she wore ship -and struck her colours. Gave three cheers. Sent the barge -on board and found our prize to be the English Brig called -the <i>Shannon</i>, Captain Robert Kendall, of Workington, 25 -days out from Maranham, bound to Liverpool, 210 tons -burthen, with a full cargo of cotton (100 bales) navigated -by 15 men, mounting 10 carriage guns, sixes and nines, a -fine vessel and sails well. The Mate was severely wounded -in the foot. Took out the prisoners, made out Prize Commission -for Samuel Barton, Letter of Instructions, gave him -ship’s papers, and at ½ past 5 p. m. gave our prize three -cheers and bade her adieu. Thus in one hour and a half -we took a valuable prize, manned her and ordered her home. -This prize may be estimated at $45,000.<a id="FNanchor_59" href="#Footnote_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a></p> - -<p>Long. Lunar at 9 a. m. 58°6′ W.—Lat. Obs. 27°37′ N.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[279]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">132 Day Friday 26th Feb.</p> - -<p>At 5 p. m. saw a sail 1½ points on the lee bow, apparently -a brig standing to the southward.... At daylight -no appearance of the sail we discovered last night.... -Long. Lun. at 11 a. m. 59°44′ W.—Lat. Obs. 28°20′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">133d Day Saturday 27th Feb.</p> - -<p>At 3 p. m. discovered a sail two points on the lee beam; -believed her to be an armed vessel in chace of us. Continued -our course with all our canvass spread. ½ past 4 -lost sight of the sail astern. During the night frequent -squalls of wind and rain. At 4 p. m. being very dark and -squally found ourselves suddenly in the midst of a fleet -of ships. Instantly called all hands and tacked ship to the -S. E. At daybreak discovered two large ships and a brig -standing to the E. Tacked ship again to the N. N. W. -The nearest sail bore two points on the lee beam distant -about 2½ leagues. At 7 a. m. lost sight of all the sails and -continued on our course. Strong breezes, flying clouds and -a heavy sea. Rook two reefs in topsail and mainsail, got -six of our cannon below, with all the shot boxes, secured -Long Tom with strong lashings, housed the lee guns, and -got everything ready for the stormy weather which we may -expect to encounter as we approach our coast.... Thomas -is nearly recovered. The wounded prisoner is comfortable -and the Surgeon thinks he will do well. Lat. Obs. 30°27′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">134th Day Sunday 28th Feb.</p> - -<p>(Begins with heavy weather) 9 a. m. saw a sail 3 points -on the weather bow. ½ past 10 spoke the Swedish (American) -Hermaphrodite Brig <i>Augustus</i> from Boston, bound -to St. Bartholomew’s—with liberty to touch at Bermuda—with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span> -cargo of American produce, 15 days out. The Captain -and passengers informed us that Commodore Decatur had -captured the British Frigate <i>Macedonian</i> after an engagement -of 17 minutes; that none of our vessels of war have -been taken; that Admiral Warren’s squadron were blockading -the Chesapeake with two Seventy fours and five -Frigates, and that there were not many cruisers on the -coast. We obtained from him several newspapers up to -the 13th Feb., from which it appears that no important -battles had taken place on the Frontier, but several skirmishes -with the Indians; that the foreign news was no later -than our English papers—Bonaparte having retired into -winter quarters at Smolenski, and Lord Wellington on -the borders of Portugal; that the coasting trade is still continued; -that a great trade was carried on under neutral -flags and many vessels dispatched to Lisbon, Cadiz and -France; that there were numerous arrivals from foreign -ports but not many prizes, and that five frigates had sailed -from France bound to America. Congress had passed a -loan bill for 22 millions and raised another army of 20000 -men, besides building several sloops of war. Permitted -the <i>Augustus</i> to proceed.—Lat. Obs. 31°33′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">135th Day Monday 1st March</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... Distance 212 miles. Invalids recover fast. Lat. -Obs. 34°23′ Thermometer 71°.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">136th Day Tuesday 2d March</p> - -<p>(Commences with strong breezes and pleasant weather—then -comes a tremendous gale with very high seas.) 11 -a. m. the stern boat being stove in the bows cut it adrift. -½ past 11 a. m. came on a very heavy squall of rain and -hail and hove the ship down nearly to her beam ends; instantly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span> -cut away the fore and trysail halyards, got the helm -up and kept her before it, threw four of our cannon overboard, -got two below, sent down maintopmast; vessel labored -excessively, the sea making a fair breach over her. -Continual squalls of wind, rain, hail and snow, with thunder -and lightning and a very dangerous sea. Finding it unsafe -to lay the ship to while the squalls continued sent her before -it under a foretopmast staysail; ship perfectly tight -and making no water. Lat. Obs. 37°11′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">137 Day Wednesday 3d March</p> - -<p>The storm continues with frequent and heavy squalls.... -At 12 midnight the squalls become less frequent—the -wind more moderate and steady and the sea less dangerous. -Hove to under trysail with her head to the westward, rode -easy and shipped no seas. 8 a. m. the wind died away—nearly -a calm—latterly an entire calm. Vessel labors considerably -owing to the heavy sea. Thomas is almost well; -the wounded Mate is in a fair way to recover; the Armourer -received a bad contusion in the side by a fall. Ther. 63° -Lat. 36°23′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">138 Day Thursday 4th March</p> - -<p>(More very nasty weather). Conclude with strong gales -and flying clouds with a bad sea. Invalids not so well. -Lat. Obs. 37°30′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">139th Day Friday 5th March</p> - -<p>(Variable weather. Two sails sighted at a distance.) -Mr. Jackson, the wounded mate, is dangerously ill. Lat. -Obs. None.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">140th Day Saturday 6th March</p> - -<p>(More squally weather with dangerous seas.) Thermometer -45°. Lat. 37°28′.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">141st Day Sunday 7th March</p> - -<p>(The gale gradually dies away). Dark cloudy weather -and excessively cold. Mr. Jackson is dangerously sick—having -symptoms of the lock-jaw. The Armourer recovered. -Lat. Obs. 37°5′ N.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">142d Day Monday 8th March</p> - -<p>(Again heavy weather and high seas.) Mr. Jackson is -(we fear) past recovery, having frequent spasms and confirmed -lockjaw. James Thomas no better, the Armourer -better. No Obs. Lat. D. R. 39°37′ N. Long. D. R. 69°55′.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">143d Day Tuesday 9th March</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... 8 a. m. discovered a sail on the weather bow, ½ past -8 made out the sail to be a pilot-boat-built schooner under -reefs standing towards us. 9 a. m. the sail showed a red -and white signal and bore away S. E. Believed her to be -an American Privateer. ½ past 9 more ships heading W. -N. W.... Tis exactly 5 months today since we left Bristol. -Mr. Jackson no better. Lat. Polar Star at 4 a. m. -39°30′ No Obs.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">144th Day Wednesday 10th March</p> - -<p>(Preparations for port). This morning the sun was fair -and serene, the air was clear and bracing, the sea smooth, -and a fair wind from the S. W. Sent up topmasts and -yards and set all sail below and aloft. Cou. N. N. E. 8 -knots. Got up all the wet sails, colours and clothes and -aired them. Bent the cables. Lat. Polar star at 7 p. m. -39°20′ N. Lat. Obs. 40°14′. Long. Lunar at 4 p. m. -72°54′ W. Soundings at meridian 55 fathoms. Block -Island bears N. N. E. distant about 65 miles. Jackson is -better.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span></p> - - -<p class="p1 center">145th Day Thursday 11th March</p> - -<p class="noindent">.... At ½ past 4 p. m. the man at mast head called out -LAND HO! Joyful sound to persons five months at sea -on a long and dangerous cruise. Suppose the land to be -Long Island. At sundown running down the land on the -larboard hand. 7 p. m. cloudy with rain. Shortened sail. -8 p. m. being very dark and hazy and not being able to see -the light hove to under reefed topsail and stood off and -on 3 a. m. died away a calm and we suddenly lessened our -soundings to 6 fathoms. Immediately took in sail and let -go our small anchor. Found she rode with her head to -the S. W. current setting to the N. E. At daylight being -dark and foggy with rain, and no land in sight, fired several -guns for a pilot. 8 a. m. it became more clear and -we discovered the land and breakers close aboard bearing -E. b N. We instantly knew this land to be Nantucket and -that we were mistaken in supposing it to be Long Island. -This mistake might have proved fatal and had it commenced -blowing heavy from the S. W. we must inevitably have -been shipwrecked on these dangerous shoals. Weighed -anchor and made all sail to the S. Soon deepened our -soundings to 17 fathoms.... No Obs.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">146th Day Friday 12th March</p> - -<p>At ½ past 1 p. m. the fog cleared away and we plainly -discerned No Man’s Land, Gay Head and Block Island -all in view.... Observe the land to be covered with snow -and a brig and schooner in shore. Cloudy and very cold -with a smooth sea, a fair wind and all sail set. At 3-13 -p. m. saw Rhode Island Light right ahead.—6 p. m. came -on a very thick fog with a heavy swell. Spoke a schooner -from New York bound in to Newport who informed us<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[284]</span> -he left Rhode Island Light about 30 minutes ago and that -it bore N. N. W. distant about 3 miles. He further mentioned -that there were no British cruisers in the Bay, but -had heard of several off Sandy Hook. Made sail for the -Light. ½ past 6 p. m. it being very dark and foggy, not -being able to see the Light, came to anchor in 17 fathoms, -soft bottom. During the night foggy with heavy rain and -extremely cold. 12 midnight discovered the Light bearing -N. N. W. ¼ N. distant about 1½ miles. At daylight made -sail and weighed anchor, standing in for Newport harbour. -<em>It is with deep regret</em> we mention the death of Mr. Jackson, -late first Mate of the English Brig <i>Shannon</i>, who died at -½ past 12 midnight in great agony. Mr. Jackson, as before -stated, was severely wounded by a cannon ball in the -foot during the skirmish between the <i>Yankee</i> and the <i>Shannon</i> -on the 24th ult. Notwithstanding every medical assistance, -and all possible attention his wound terminated in -the lockjaw, spasms and death. Mr. Jackson belonged to -Workington, was 23 years old, very much beloved by his -captain and crew, and appeared to be a most excellent -young man.</p> - -<p>At ½ past 7 a. m. passed Rhode Island Light; ½ past -8 a. m. fired a salute of three guns as we passed Fort Wolcott. -9 a. m. came to anchor in Newport harbour. Thus -after an absence of 146 days the <i>Yankee</i> has arrived safe, -having captured during the cruise 8 valuable prizes, 52 -cannons, 196 prisoners, 401 stand of small arms, and property -to the amount of 296,000 dollars. She is ballasted -with gold-dust, ivory and fine goods. She has not lost a -man during the cruise either by sickness or the enemy, and -has returned with 52 persons on board including boys. It -is worthy of remark that the <i>Yankee</i> neither saw nor was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[285]</span> -chased by any of his Majesty’s war dogs during the cruise -except the little schooner <i>St. Jago</i>. She has encountered -as before mentioned a great deal of tempestuous weather -on the coast but has received no material injury, except the -loss of 4 cannon thrown overboard on the 2d of March.</p> - - -<p class="p1 center">THUS ENDS OUR CRUISE.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="verse indentq">“Honor and shame from no condition rise,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Act well your part, there all the Honor lies.”</div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="blockquotx"> - -<p>District and Port of Newport, March 12th, 1813.</p> - -<p>I, Oliver Wilson, Commander of the private armed brig called the -<i>Yankee</i>, do swear that what is contained in the foregoing Journal, -consisting of one hundred and fifty pages, is just and true in all its -parts. So help me God.</p> - -<p class="right smcap">Oliver Wilson.</p> - -<p class="noindent">Collector’s Office, Port of Newport<br /> -Sworn to the day and year above mentioned,<br /> -<span class="smcap pad2">William Ellery</span>, <em>Collector</em>.</p> -</div> - - -<p class="p2 pfs120">FINIS</p> - - -<table class="p1 autotable" summary=""> -<tr> -<td class="tdc fs70" colspan="2">LIST OF PRIZES CAPTURED BY THE PRIVATEER “YANKEE” -DURING HER SECOND CRUISE.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx td-sp" colspan="2">No. 1. Sloop <i>Mary Ann</i> of London, Captain Stewart Sutherland, -copper-bottomed, mounting 4 carriage guns and -navigated by 11 men, with a cargo of gold-dust, ivory, -drygoods, and camwood. Took out the cargo, stripped -the vessel and set her on fire. 27th Nov. 1812—Lat. Obs. -7°29′ N.—off Sierra Leone.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx">Vessel and cargo valued at</td> -<td class="tdr">$16,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx td-sp" colspan="2">No. 2 Letter of Marque Schooner <i>Alder</i>, of Liverpool, late -Captain Edward Crowley, mounting 6 carriage guns (9 -pounders), coppered, formerly a French Privateer, with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[286]</span> -21 men and a cargo of gun powder (400 casks) muskets, -iron, lead, flints, drygoods, etc. Ordered home. The -<i>Alder</i> was captured on the 3d of Dec. 1812 in Lat. 6°53′ -N, off Cape Saint Anna, after a skirmish of 20 minutes. -The <i>Alder</i> blew up.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx">Vessel and cargo valued at</td> -<td class="tdr">$10,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx td-sp" colspan="2">No. 3 Letter of Marque Brig <i>Andalusia</i>, Anthony Yates -Kendall, Master of and from Gibraltar, bound to the coast -on a trading voyage, 210 tons burthen, mounting 10 carriage -guns (4 long French nines and 6 twelve pound cannonades) -with small arms, ammunition etc. and a crew -of 100 men including 81 Free Africans who served as -marines. The <i>Andalusia</i> was captured on the 10th of -Dec. 1812, in Lat. 5°35′ N, after a running fight of three -hours and a close engagement of 45 minutes.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx">Vessel and cargo valued at</td> -<td class="tdr">$17,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx td-sp" colspan="2">No. 4 Pilot boat Schooner <i>George</i>. Cut out by the <i>Yankee’s</i> -boat. Deserted by the captain and crew. Cargo -Rice. Given to prisoners.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx">Vessel and cargo valued at</td> -<td class="tdr">$ 1,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx td-sp" colspan="2">No. 5 Brig <i>Thames</i> of Liverpool, Francis Toole, Master; -8 carriage guns (nines and twelves), 14 men, cargo ivory, -drygoods and camwood (240 tons)—captured 10th Jan. -1813 off Annabona.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx">Vessel and cargo valued at</td> -<td class="tdr">$25,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx td-sp" colspan="2">No. 6 Brig <i>Fly</i> of London, Captain Tydeman, 6 carriage -guns (nines) 14 men, formerly a French privateer, a new -and handsome vessel and sails, cargo gold-dust, ivory, -gun powder, drygoods and sundries. The <i>Fly</i> was cut -out from under the guns of Fort Apollonia, mounting 50 -pieces of artillery, at 1 p. m. on the 20th Dec. 1812.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx">Vessel and cargo valued at (Besides the gold)</td> -<td class="tdr">$26,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx td-sp" colspan="2"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[287]</span> -No. 7 Armed Brig <i>Harriott and Matilda</i>, of Maryport, -Captain John Inman, from Cork bound to Pernambuco, -mounting 8 carriage guns, eighteens and twelves, 14 men, -coppered, 262 tons, sails well, with a valuable cargo of -drygoods, iron, porter, salt etc.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx">Vessel and cargo valued at</td> -<td class="tdr">$27,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx td-sp" colspan="2">No. 8 Brig <i>Shannon</i>, Captain Robert Kendall, of Workington, -from Maranham, bound to Liverpool, mounting -10 carriage guns (nines and sixes), 15 men, 210 tons -burthen, with a full cargo of cotton (100 tons). The -<i>Shannon</i> was captured on the 24th Feb. in Lat. 27°3′ N. -and Long. Lunar 56°42′ W, Bermudas bearing N. W., -after an action of 10 minutes in which the Mate of the -<i>Shannon</i> was severely wounded.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx">Vessel and cargo valued at</td> -<td class="tdr">$45,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx td-sp">Property on board the <i>Yankee</i> in gold, ivory, fine goods etc.</td> -<td class="tdr td-sp">$45,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx"></td> -<td class="tdr">————</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdlx"></td> -<td class="tdr">$212,000</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<table class="p2 autotable" width="95%" summary=""> -<tr> -<td class="tdc fs70" colspan="5">GENERAL ESTIMATE.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl pad2">Names</td> -<td class="tdr">Guns</td> -<td class="tdr">Men</td> -<td class="tdr">Small<br />Arms</td> -<td class="tdr">Value </td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><i>Mary Ann</i></td> -<td class="tdr">4</td> -<td class="tdr">11</td> -<td class="tdr">186</td> -<td class="tdr">$16,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><i>Alder</i></td> -<td class="tdr">6</td> -<td class="tdr">21</td> -<td class="tdr">90</td> -<td class="tdr">10,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><i>Andalusia</i></td> -<td class="tdr">10</td> -<td class="tdr">100</td> -<td class="tdr">90</td> -<td class="tdr">17,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><i>George</i></td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr">7</td> -<td class="tdr"></td> -<td class="tdr">1,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><i>Fly</i></td> -<td class="tdr">6</td> -<td class="tdr">14</td> -<td class="tdr">20</td> -<td class="tdr">26,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><i>Thames</i></td> -<td class="tdr">8</td> -<td class="tdr">14</td> -<td class="tdr">30</td> -<td class="tdr">25,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><i>Harriott & Matilda</i></td> -<td class="tdr">8</td> -<td class="tdr">14</td> -<td class="tdr">20</td> -<td class="tdr">27,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><i>Shannon</i></td> -<td class="tdr">10</td> -<td class="tdr">15</td> -<td class="tdr">25</td> -<td class="tdr">45,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"></td> -<td class="tdr">—</td> -<td class="tdr">—–</td> -<td class="tdr">—–</td> -<td class="tdr">———–</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"></td> -<td class="tdr">52</td> -<td class="tdr">196</td> -<td class="tdr">461</td> -<td class="tdr">$167,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl" colspan="4">Value on board the <i>Yankee</i></td> -<td class="tdr">45,000</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl" colspan="4"></td> -<td class="tdr">———–</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl" colspan="4"></td> -<td class="tdr">$212,000</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[288]</span></p> - - -<p class="p2 fs70 lsp pad6">OFFICERS OF THE YANKEE</p> - -<p> -Oliver Wilson, Commander<br /> -<span class="pad2">Seth Barton, First Lieutenant</span><br /> -<span class="pad4">John H. Vinson, Second Lieutenant</span><br /> -<span class="pad6">Thomas Jones, Third Lieutenant</span><br /> -<span class="pad8">Elisha Snow, Master</span><br /> -<br /> -Caleb Miller, Surgeon<br /> -<span class="pad2">Noah Jones, Capt. of Marines & Captain’s Clerk</span><br /> -<span class="pad4">Andrew Holden, First Mate</span><br /> -<span class="pad6">Joseph Meades, Second Mate</span><br /> -<span class="pad8">Thomas Pitts, Third Mate</span><br /> -<span class="pad10">Seven Prize-Masters</span><br /> -<span class="pad12">Six Quarter-Masters</span><br /> -<span class="pad6">One hundred men</span><br /> -</p> - - -<p class="p2 pfs70 lsp">ROUTE OF THE YANKEE</p> - -<p>Touched at St. Jago, Cape de Verds, on the 27th day of -her cruise for wood and water. Engaged one of his Britannic -Majesty’s Schooners on the night of the 23d of November. -Cruised between Cape Verde and Cape Lopez from -the 22d of November 1812 to the 6th of January 1813, -looking in at every port, harbour, river, factory, town etc -on that coast, and capturing five valuable prizes, loaded with -gold dust, ivory, dyewoods etc. Touched at the island’s of -St. Thomas, Annabona, Ascension, and Fernando Noronha, -at various times during her cruise, for wood, water and -fresh stock. Then cruised off the coast of Brazil, and captured -two large brigs with cargoes of fine goods and sundries. -Fought four battles, crossed the Equinoctial Line -six times, and returned safe into port, having been frequently -chased by the enemy, after an absence of 146 days -without the loss of a man.<a id="FNanchor_60" href="#Footnote_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a></p> - -<p class="right">(Noah Jones, Captain’s Clerk)</p> - - -<div class="chapter"></div> -<div class="footnotes"><h3 class="margtop1">FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_40" href="#FNanchor_40" class="label">[40]</a> Ann. Cong. 2 Sess. 1820-21, Senate, pp. 71-77.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_41" href="#FNanchor_41" class="label">[41]</a> This vessel was the Chippewa. One of the Bristol privateers, the -Macdonough, had developed such remarkable speed as to call public -attention to her builder, Captain Caleb Carr of Warren, R. I. Accordingly -Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, as agent of the United States -Government, was ordered to contract with Captain Carr for the building -of a warship within ninety days. Perry, be it remembered, had -already developed, upon the shores of Lake Erie, a marvellous capacity -for building ships in record time. On March 15, 1814, only fifty-seven -days from the time her keel was laid, notwithstanding many -days of storm and snow, this ship of 411 tons burden, carrying sixteen -guns, was delivered to Commodore Perry for her rigging and -armament. A few days afterward she went to sea completely armed -and rigged. The money for both its construction and equipment was -advanced by Mr. De Wolf.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_42" href="#FNanchor_42" class="label">[42]</a> A word about nautical terms for the benefit of those not in an -old sea port born. All vessels, except the one masted sloops, are -much larger than those of a hundred years ago, and the number of -masts upon vessels has been increased. A “full rigged ship” of a -century ago was a three masted vessel with square sails hanging -from yards on each of the masts. Schooners and brigs were two -masted vessels, the former with sails on both masts similar to those -upon a sloop yacht today, but very much smaller. The schooner rig -was not applied to three masted craft until about the middle of the -last century. The giant schooners of the present time, with their -four, five, six and even seven masts, had not been dreamed of fifty -years ago. The schooner rig was devised in Gloucester, Massachusetts, -about the year 1713. It is gradually making its way around -the world. The writer noted that in 1904 it had almost entirely supplanted -the “junk” upon the Inland Sea of Japan.</p> - -<p>Brigs were of two kinds, full rigged and hermaphrodite. A full -rigged brig had square sails on both masts, while the hermaphrodite -(in sailor dialect “morfydite”) had square sails on the foremast and -schooner sails on the other, and was sometimes called a brigantine. -The Yankee, ordinarily spoken of as a brig, was really a brigantine. -Brigs are rarely seen in United States ports today. They almost invariably -sail under a foreign flag.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_43" href="#FNanchor_43" class="label">[43]</a> Captain Wilson was only twenty-six years old.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_44" href="#FNanchor_44" class="label">[44]</a> It is reported that these unfortunates were frequently asked “how -they liked the swimming” by those of the crew who had remained for -the capture of the San Jose Indiano, and that rude boys, for almost -a generation, continued to ask the same question, always of course -at a respectful distance.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_45" href="#FNanchor_45" class="label">[45]</a> The San Jose Indiano was a teak built East Indiaman. How old -she was at the time of her capture we do not know, but she was -destined to a long life under the American flag. As far as seaworthiness -was concerned she might have continued to plow the seas -until the time of our Civil War—then to end her days with the other -whaleships from New Bedford and elsewhere that were sunk to block -the entrance to the harbor of Charleston, S. C. Mr. De Wolf renamed -her the General Jackson and used her for a time in the general -carrying trade. Later when the whale fishery became popular with -the people of the towns on Narragansett Bay she received a whaler’s -outfit and sailed for years with the Bristol whaling fleet. The Mexican -War having broken out, she was sold, in 1846 or thereabout, to -the United States Government, being by her construction specially -adapted for work in tropical waters. When a Government survey -was made, preliminary to her sale, the carpenters who attempted to -cut holes in her sides expended many tools, and much profanity, before -they could make any impression upon her planks. Her teak timbers, -combined with the cement between their joints, for a time defied all -their efforts, both wood and cement having become almost as hard -as stone. After she had lain for some months at anchor off Vera -Cruz, the Government had no further need for her and therefore sold -her to a third American owner. To him she did not prove profitable, -and it is said that an attempt to set her on fire in order to secure her -insurance was made. The staunch old ship simply refused to burn. -Again she was sold for a very small sum. Then, so the story goes, -a more scientific and successful attempt to transfer her to the underwriters -was made. She was loaded with a cargo of lime, and then -holes having been skilfully made in her hull, doubtless with more -profanity, she was cleared for a southern port. Somewhere in the -waters about the Florida peninsula she was run upon a reef, and the -ocean combined with the lime to do the rest.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_46" href="#FNanchor_46" class="label">[46]</a> The name Goree was until very recently applied to the part of the -town of Bristol in which the negroes lived.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_47" href="#FNanchor_47" class="label">[47]</a> This is the only record of a punishment inflicted upon one of the -crew during the whole cruise. As will later appear one of the Officers -became subject for censure on several occasions.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_48" href="#FNanchor_48" class="label">[48]</a> Baft, or bafta, was a coarse stuff of India cotton.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_49" href="#FNanchor_49" class="label">[49]</a> The <i>Yankee</i> in firing aimed to disable—not to destroy her possible -prizes.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_50" href="#FNanchor_50" class="label">[50]</a> In comparing the edifying music of the marines with the ungodly -songs of the sailors the gentle reader will do well to bear in mind the -fact that the writer was the Captain of Marines.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_51" href="#FNanchor_51" class="label">[51]</a> This was true in more ways than one as the <i>Fly</i> was recaptured -by the British. The gold dust she had accumulated reached Bristol -in the <i>Yankee</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_52" href="#FNanchor_52" class="label">[52]</a> The small size of the vessel suggests the <i>Pinta</i> and the <i>Niña</i> of the -fleet of Columbus.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_53" href="#FNanchor_53" class="label">[53]</a> Mr. Vinson’s indisposition was probably due to drunkenness, as -will appear from subsequent entries. His case was an unusual one -for a Privateersman.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_54" href="#FNanchor_54" class="label">[54]</a> Query, Were there others suffering from the Vinsonian malady?</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_55" href="#FNanchor_55" class="label">[55]</a> Descriptions like this, which occur frequently in the Journals of -American merchantmen, were carefully read by ship owners, and mastered -by the Captains sent to trade with foreign ports.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_56" href="#FNanchor_56" class="label">[56]</a> The two islands, Ascension and Saint Helena, which was later -to become famous as the prison of Napoleon Bonaparte, were both -made “Ports of Call” for the <i>Yankee</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_57" href="#FNanchor_57" class="label">[57]</a> The island is used by the government of Brazil as a penal settlement.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_58" href="#FNanchor_58" class="label">[58]</a> The burning of Washington was yet to come.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_59" href="#FNanchor_59" class="label">[59]</a> Before the <i>Shannon</i> was captured, Mr. Jones had made out his -“List of Prizes,” and had also written the “Route of the <i>Yankee</i>” -which is printed at the end of this Journal. It is possible that he -may not have protested very strongly at the additional entries he was -compelled to make. The <i>Shannon</i>, with her cargo, actually netted -$67,521. The erroneous estimate may be excused in view of the exceedingly -short time allowed for its making. When the cargo of the -<i>Shannon</i> was sold, Mr. De Wolf found that he had been remunerated -for all his losses suffered at the hands of the British cruisers. He -therefore renamed her the <i>Balance</i>. Bearing that name she sailed from -Bristol for years thereafter. The next prize was renamed the <i>Prize</i>, -and the next the <i>Remittance</i>. The <i>San Jose Indiano</i> of the 5th cruise -became the <i>General Jackson</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_60" href="#FNanchor_60" class="label">[60]</a> The <i>Shannon</i> had not been taken when this “Route” was written.</p> - -</div> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[289]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="p2 nobreak fs150" id="INDEX">INDEX</h2> -</div> - - -<div class="p2 fs80"> -Adam of Bremen, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br /> -Alaska houses and customs, <a href="#Page_146">146</a><br /> -<br /> -Allen, Amos A., <a href="#Page_231">231</a><br /> -Allen, Anson A., <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br /> -Ancastra, Governor General, <a href="#Page_240">240</a><br /> -Andrews, Zep, <a href="#Page_269">269</a><br /> -Angell, James, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br /> -Annals of Iceland, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> -Anthony, James, <a href="#Page_270">270</a><br /> -Anthony, Joseph, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a><br /> -Antonio, Capt. Francis, <a href="#Page_277">277</a><br /> -Antonio, King of Lahore, <a href="#Page_256">256</a><br /> -Archangel settlement, <a href="#Page_126">126</a><br /> -Ariadne of Boston, <a href="#Page_229">229</a><br /> -Athawalpa, <a href="#Page_116">116</a><br /> -Atwood, Preserved, <a href="#Page_240">240</a><br /> -<br /> -Babcock, W. H., <a href="#Page_2">2</a><br /> -Bafts, <a href="#Page_246">246</a><br /> -Baidarkas, <a href="#Page_114">114</a><br /> -Baker, Lemuel, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> -Balance, brig, <a href="#Page_278">278</a><br /> -Bander, Supt., <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br /> -Baranoff, Baron, <a href="#Page_114">114</a> et seq., <a href="#Page_120">120</a><br /> -Barracks moved, <a href="#Page_25">25</a><br /> -Barton, Samuel, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_278">278</a><br /> -Barton, Seth, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br /> -Belfour, Ellah & Co., <a href="#Page_198">198</a><br /> -Biarni, Heriulfson, <a href="#Page_3">3</a><br /> -Blockade, privateer, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> -Booldakoff, Mr., <a href="#Page_195">195</a><br /> -“Boston Men,” <a href="#Page_111">111</a><br /> -Bosworth, Nathaniel, <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br /> -Boyish sports, <a href="#Page_30">30</a><br /> -Boynton, Samuel, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br /> -Bradford, Gov. William, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a><br /> -Bradford house, <a href="#Page_25">25</a><br /> -Briggs, John, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br /> -Bristol, name <a href="#Page_14">14</a>,<br /> -<span class="pad1">bombarded <a href="#Page_22">22</a>,</span><br /> -<span class="pad1">burned <a href="#Page_23">23</a></span><br /> -Brown, Captain, <a href="#Page_113">113</a><br /> -Brown, Daniel, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br /> -Brown, John, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br /> -Brown, Peleg, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br /> -Bruce, George A., <a href="#Page_219">219</a><br /> -Bucharin, Capt., <a href="#Page_163">163</a><br /> -Bucklin, D., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Bucklin, E., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Burgas, Capt. Miguel, <a href="#Page_233">233</a><br /> -Burt, Rev. John, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br /> -Burt, “Marm,” <a href="#Page_25">25</a><br /> -Burton, Stephen, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a><br /> -Butman, Joseph, <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br /> -Byfield, Nathaniel, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a><br /> -Byfield house, <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br /> -Byrum, Ebenezer, <a href="#Page_231">231</a><br /> -<br /> -Cammett, Richard, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Caroline of Boston, <a href="#Page_111">111</a><br /> -Carr, Capt. Caleb, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a><br /> -Carr, Mr., <a href="#Page_252">252</a><br /> -Carter, John, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a><br /> -Charanville, Madam, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br /> -Child, William, <a href="#Page_253">253</a><br /> -Chippewa, sloop of war, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> -Church, Benjamin, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a><br /> -Churchill, Capt. Benj. K., <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> -Cockroach, Cuffee, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> -Coddington Jr., Nathaniel, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br /> -Coit, Richard M., <a href="#Page_272">272</a><br /> -Colt, Samuel Pomeroy, <a href="#Page_224">224</a><br /> -Columbia of Boston, <a href="#Page_111">111</a><br /> -Commerce, <a href="#Page_31">31</a><br /> -Cook, J. D., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Courtney, brig, <a href="#Page_220">220</a><br /> -Cramer, Benedict, <a href="#Page_195">195</a><br /> -Cramer, Smith & Co., <a href="#Page_195">195</a><br /> -Crawford, James, <a href="#Page_235">235</a><br /> -Crowne, John, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br /> -Crowley, Capt. Edward, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a><br /> -Cuffee Cockroach, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> -Cunha Matos, Governor, <a href="#Page_262">262</a><br /> -<br /> -Davidoff, John, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[290]</span><br /> -D’Antillac, Father, <a href="#Page_92">92</a><br /> -D’Huberlant, Father, <a href="#Page_92">92</a><br /> -D’Orvilliers, Commandant, <a href="#Page_85">85</a><br /> -DeVilleconte, Father, <a href="#Page_92">92</a><br /> -DeWolf, Charles, <a href="#Page_101">101</a><br /> -DeWolf, George, <a href="#Page_101">101</a><br /> -DeWolf, James, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a> et seq.<br /> -DeWolf, John, <a href="#Page_97">97</a> et seq.<br /> -DeWolf, Mark Antony, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a><br /> -DeWolf family, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> -Dichaetin, Chief, <a href="#Page_131">131</a><br /> -Distilleries, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br /> -Dogs, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a><br /> -Downing, Mrs., <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br /> -Duddington, Thomas, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br /> -Duffel, <a href="#Page_114">114</a><br /> -Duro, <a href="#Page_187">187</a><br /> -<br /> -Ebbetts, Capt., <a href="#Page_111">111</a><br /> -Eddy, George, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a><br /> -Ellery, William, <a href="#Page_285">285</a><br /> -Elliott, Francis, <a href="#Page_220">220</a><br /> -Eustis, William, <a href="#Page_214">214</a><br /> -<br /> -Fauque, Father, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a> et seq.<br /> -Fernald, Professor, <a href="#Page_5">5</a><br /> -Ferry boats, <a href="#Page_190">190</a><br /> -Foy, William, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Francis, prize ship, <a href="#Page_218">218</a><br /> -Freydis, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br /> -<br /> -Gaspee, schooner, burned, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br /> -General Jackson, prize ship, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a><br /> -General Wellesley, prize ship, <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br /> -Gibsheet, Jack, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> -Goff, seaman, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br /> -Gorea, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> -Grafton, Samuel, <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> -Grand Sisters Islands, <a href="#Page_255">255</a><br /> -Grant, Sueton, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br /> -Grapes, <a href="#Page_5">5</a><br /> -Gray, Capt. David, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br /> -Gray, Capt. Robert, <a href="#Page_111">111</a><br /> -Greene, Governor William, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br /> -Griswold, Bishop, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br /> -Gullifer, Sampson, <a href="#Page_219">219</a><br /> -Gunnerson, George. 241, <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br /> -Gunpowder Plot, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> -Guy Fawkes Day, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> -<br /> -Hampden, John, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> -Hanson, J., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Hardiman, Lieutenant, <a href="#Page_225">225</a><br /> -Harris, L., <a href="#Page_196">196</a><br /> -Hayman, Nathan, <a href="#Page_14">14</a><br /> -Hetherington, A. B., <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> -Hitchcock, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Holden, Andrew, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br /> -Holden, James, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a><br /> -Holmes, Capt. Bartlett, <a href="#Page_229">229</a><br /> -Hooper, Joseph, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -“Hop,” <a href="#Page_7">7</a><br /> -Hopkins, Stephen, <a href="#Page_10">10</a><br /> -Horsford, E. N., <a href="#Page_2">2</a><br /> -Hunt, Thomas, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -<br /> -Iceland Annals, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> -Image worship, <a href="#Page_61">61</a><br /> -Ingraham, Ned, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> -Inman, Capt. John, <a href="#Page_272">272</a><br /> -Irkutsk, <a href="#Page_181">181</a><br /> -Ivanah, Major Antony, <a href="#Page_151">151</a><br /> -<br /> -Jack Jibsheet, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> -Jackson, Mate, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a><br /> -James, Edward, <a href="#Page_242">242</a><br /> -Japanese on Kurile Islands, <a href="#Page_153">153</a><br /> -Jenckes, Capt. Wm. C., <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> -Jenkins, Capt., <a href="#Page_231">231</a><br /> -Jones, Abraham, <a href="#Page_115">115</a><br /> -Jones, Edward, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br /> -Jones, John, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Jones, Noah, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br /> -Jones, Thomas, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br /> -Juno, ship <a href="#Page_101">101</a>,<br /> -<span class="pad1">crew <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span><br /> -<br /> -Kaluschians, <a href="#Page_132">132</a><br /> -Kendall, Capt. Anthony Y., <a href="#Page_251">251</a><br /> -Kendall, Capt. Robert, <a href="#Page_278">278</a><br /> -Kip, Bishop W. I., <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br /> -Kipp, William, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br /> -Koscheleff, Gov. General, <a href="#Page_155">155</a><br /> -Korükin, <a href="#Page_121">121</a><br /> -Koster, John, <a href="#Page_234">234</a> 235, <a href="#Page_243">243</a><br /> -Krusenstern, Capt., <a href="#Page_124">124</a><br /> -Kurile Islands, <a href="#Page_153">153</a><br /> -<div id="KUT"></div> -Kutsnetsoff, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a><br /> -<br /> -Lafayette, <a href="#Page_24">24</a><br /> -Lage de la Landerie, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br /> -Langsdorff, Dr. George, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a> et seq., <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a><br /> -<div id="LAW"></div> -Lariwanoff, Madame, <a href="#Page_147">147</a><br /> -Leif Ericson, <a href="#Page_3">3</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[291]</span><br /> -Lewis, Joseph, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> -Lindegard, J. C., <a href="#Page_263">263</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a><br /> -Lisiansky, Capt., <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a><br /> -<br /> -Macdonough, privateer, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a><br /> -Madina, Dr., <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br /> -Mahoney, J., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Mary of Boston, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a><br /> -Marshall, J., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Maschin, Andrew W., <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a><br /> -Mason, Aaron, <a href="#Page_237">237</a><br /> -Massasoit, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> -Meades, Joseph, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br /> -Midget, Abner, <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br /> -Miller, Dr. Caleb, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br /> -Milton, Thomas, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a><br /> -Mitchell, Henry, <a href="#Page_238">238</a><br /> -Monthaup or Montop, <a href="#Page_2">2</a><br /> -Moorfield, James, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a><br /> -Morris, Watson, <a href="#Page_237">237</a><br /> -Moscow, <a href="#Page_192">192</a> et seq.<br /> -Mount Hope Lands, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a><br /> -Munro, Benjamin, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br /> -Murphy, T., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -<br /> -Nantucket, <a href="#Page_3">3</a><br /> -Narragansett pacers, <a href="#Page_78">78</a><br /> -Nautical terms, <a href="#Page_213">213</a><br /> -Newell, Samuel G., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Newettee, <a href="#Page_109">109</a><br /> -Norseman’s Rock, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> -Norsemen, <a href="#Page_2">2</a><br /> -<br /> -O’Connor, Mr., <a href="#Page_253">253</a><br /> -Officers of the Yankee, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br /> -Oliver, Nathaniel, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a><br /> -Oyapoc, <a href="#Page_45">45</a> et seq.,<br /> -<span class="pad1">Fort <a href="#Page_92">92</a></span><br /> -<br /> -Parker, E. D., <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a><br /> -Patterson, S., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Pearl of Boston, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a><br /> -Peck, Lyman, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> -Perry, Rev. C. B., <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br /> -Perry, Com. M. C., <a href="#Page_99">99</a><br /> -Perry, Com. O. H., <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> -Pervoshka, <a href="#Page_182">182</a><br /> -Petroff, Supt., <a href="#Page_163">163</a><br /> -Philip, King <a href="#Page_11">11</a>,<br /> -<span class="pad1">monument <a href="#Page_12">12</a></span><br /> -Phillips, Michael, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br /> -Phipps, W., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Pickens, Samuel, <a href="#Page_257">257</a><br /> -Pitts, Thomas, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br /> -Plunder from Oyapoc, <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br /> -Popes in Russia, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br /> -Popoff, <a href="#Page_121">121</a><br /> -Porter, Capt., <a href="#Page_116">116</a><br /> -Port Praya, <a href="#Page_240">240</a><br /> -Potter, Jeffrey, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a><br /> -Potter, Simeon, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br /> -Powers, J., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Prince Charles of Lorraine, wrecked, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br /> -Prizes of the Yankee, <a href="#Page_286">286-7</a><br /> -Profits from privateering, <a href="#Page_217">217</a><br /> -<br /> -Ramansoff, <a href="#Page_196">196</a><br /> -Redding, William, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br /> -Religious revivals, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a><br /> -Resanoff, Baron, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a><br /> -Rhode Island privateers, <a href="#Page_42">42</a><br /> -“Rodelan” described, <a href="#Page_59">59</a><br /> -Robinson, Capt. Andrew, <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> -Royal Bounty, ship, <a href="#Page_217">217</a><br /> -Russell, Thomas P., <a href="#Page_217">217</a><br /> -Russian baptismal service, <a href="#Page_158">158</a><br /> -Russian leave-takings, <a href="#Page_189">189</a><br /> -Russian trading voyage to San Francisco, <a href="#Page_138">138</a><br /> -<br /> -Sables at Irkutsk, <a href="#Page_175">175</a><br /> -St. Michael’s Church, burned, <a href="#Page_24">24</a><br /> -St. Michael’s Church, revivals in, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br /> -St. Thomas Island, <a href="#Page_262">262</a><br /> -San Jose Indiano, prize, <a href="#Page_220">220</a><br /> -Salsbury (or Salisberry), Daniel, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a><br /> -Schelikoff, pioneer, <a href="#Page_125">125</a><br /> -<div id="SCH"></div> -Schitchachon, <a href="#Page_132">132</a><br /> -Schooners, <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br /> -Schoonerson, George, <a href="#Page_238">238</a><br /> -Schwostoff, Nicholas, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a><br /> -Settakroo, King, <a href="#Page_254">254</a><br /> -Ship-building, <a href="#Page_31">31</a><br /> -Simmons, Cyrus, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a><br /> -Simonitch, Dementy, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br /> -<div id="SIT"></div> -Sitcha, habits, houses and fashions, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>,<br /> -<span class="pad1">climatic conditions, <a href="#Page_137">137</a></span><br /> -Skraelings, <a href="#Page_7">7</a><br /> -Slave trade, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a> et seq.<br /> -Slocum, N. A., <a href="#Page_260">260</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[292]</span><br /> -Slocum, N. M., <a href="#Page_266">266</a><br /> -Small-pox, <a href="#Page_179">179</a><br /> -Smith, Bishop B. B., <a href="#Page_21">21</a><br /> -Smith, John, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a><br /> -Snorri Thorfinnson, <a href="#Page_6">6</a><br /> -Snow, Elisha, <a href="#Page_219">219-21</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a><br /> -Starruk (Starruke), <a href="#Page_153">153</a><br /> -Stetson, George W., <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a><br /> -Sturgis, Capt., <a href="#Page_113">113</a><br /> -Stokes, J., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Sutherland, Capt. Stewart, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a><br /> -Swan, Capt. Thomas, <a href="#Page_21">21</a><br /> -Sweet, Capt. Manly, <a href="#Page_217">217</a><br /> -Switchell or Switcher, Asa, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a><br /> -<br /> -Tacking, <a href="#Page_3">3</a><br /> -Tatton, D., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Tea drinking, <a href="#Page_175">175</a><br /> -Thames, prize ship, <a href="#Page_219">219</a><br /> -Thomas, James, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a><br /> -Thomas, John A., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Thorfinn Karlsefni, <a href="#Page_6">6</a><br /> -Thorvald Ericson, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a><br /> -Tilley, Admiral B. F., <a href="#Page_30">30</a><br /> -Tobacco benefits, <a href="#Page_29">29</a><br /> -Tobolsk, <a href="#Page_188">188</a><br /> -Tompenny, Capt. Robert, <a href="#Page_253">253</a><br /> -Toole, Capt. Francis, <a href="#Page_265">265</a><br /> -Trescott, Capt., <a href="#Page_104">104</a><br /> -Tripp, W. H., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Turtles, <a href="#Page_269">269</a><br /> -Tydeman, Capt. Jonathan, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br /> -Tyng, Rev. S. H., <a href="#Page_28">28</a><br /> -Tyrker, <a href="#Page_5">5</a><br /> -Usher, James 2d, <a href="#Page_217">217</a><br /> -Usher, Sammy, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br /> -<br /> -Vancouver of Boston, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a><br /> -Viking ships, <a href="#Page_2">2</a><br /> -Vinland, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br /> -Vinson, John H., <a href="#Page_260">260</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br /> -<br /> -Wallace, Capt. James, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a><br /> -Walley, John, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a><br /> -Wamsutta, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> -Wardwell, Henry, <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br /> -Washington, George, <a href="#Page_25">25</a><br /> -Water Witch, privateer, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br /> -Whales and whaling, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a><br /> -Wheeler, J., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Wheesner, J., <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br /> -Whipple, Capt. Abraham, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a><br /> -Whitehead, Charles B., <a href="#Page_246">246</a><br /> -Whitmarsh, Jonathan, <a href="#Page_243">243</a><br /> -Williams, Capt. Alfred, <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br /> -Wilson, Capt. Oliver, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> et seq.<br /> -Wilson, Tom, <a href="#Page_255">255</a><br /> -Wilson, Capt. Thomas, <a href="#Page_226">226</a><br /> -Winship, Capt. Jonathan, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br /> -Winslow, Edward, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> -Winter climate of Vinland, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a><br /> -Wiopock, <a href="#Page_45">45</a><br /> -<br /> -Yakutsk, <a href="#Page_173">173</a><br /> -Yemshik, <a href="#Page_184">184</a><br /> -Yermerk, <a href="#Page_122">122</a><br /> -<br /> -Zelinzoff, <a href="#Page_187">187</a><br /> -</div> - -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - - -<div class="p4 transnote pg-brk"> -<a name="TN" id="TN"></a> -<p><strong>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE</strong></p> - -<p>Footnote [10] is referenced from <a href="#Footnote_9">Footnote [9]</a>, and Footnote [18] -is referenced from <a href="#Footnote_17">Footnote [17]</a>.</p> - -<p>Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been -corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within -the text and consultation of external sources.</p> - -<p>Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text, -and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.<br /> -<br /> -<a href="#tn-15">Pg 15</a>: ‘the roof slooping’ replaced by ‘the roof sloping’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-58">Pg 58</a>: ‘their sentinenls on’ replaced by ‘their sentinels on’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-68">Pg 68</a>: ‘such senitments in’ replaced by ‘such sentiments in’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-69">Pg 69</a>: ‘we would take me.’ replaced by ‘he would take me.’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-86">Pg 86</a>: ‘who were prsioners’ replaced by ‘who were prisoners’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-88">Pg 88</a>: ‘and fo this reason’ replaced by ‘and for this reason’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-128">Pg 128</a>: ‘for science’ sake’ replaced by ‘for science’s sake’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-161">Pg 161</a>: ‘then bade good by’ replaced by ‘then bade good-bye’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-172">Pg 172</a>: ‘iunnmerable cattle’ replaced by ‘innumerable cattle’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-232a">Pg 232</a>: ‘left at Maderia’ replaced by ‘left at Madeira’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-232b">Pg 232</a>: ‘left Maderia an’ replaced by ‘left Madeira an’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-232c">Pg 232</a>: ‘and the scurvey’ replaced by ‘and the scurvy’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-246">Pg 246</a>: ‘African crew, men’ replaced by ‘African crewmen’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-255">Pg 255</a>: ‘Obs. 4, 17.’ replaced by ‘Obs. 4°17′.’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-256">Pg 256</a>: ‘Lat. 4, 38.’ replaced by ‘Lat. 4°38′.’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-266">Pg 266</a>: ‘N. M. Slocun’ replaced by ‘N. M. Slocum’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-272">Pg 272</a>: ‘of Mayport,’ replaced by ‘of Maryport,’.<br /> -<a href="#tn-276">Pg 276</a>: inserted missing header ‘118th Day Friday 12th Feb.’.<br /> -<a href="#KUT">Index</a>: ‘Kutsnettsoff’ replaced by ‘Kutsnetsoff’.<br /> -<a href="#LAW">Index</a>: ‘Lawarinoff’ replaced by ‘Lariwanoff’.<br /> -<a href="#SCH">Index</a>: ‘Schilchachon’ replaced by ‘Schitchachon’.<br /> -<a href="#SIT">Index</a>: ‘Sitka’ replaced by ‘Sitcha’.<br /> -</p> -</div> - -<p> </p> -<hr class="pgx" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 64419-h.htm or 64419-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/4/1/64419">http://www.gutenberg.org/6/4/4/1/64419</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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