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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this ebook. - -Title: The ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland from the earliest - Christian times to the seventeenth century; vol. 1/3 - -Author: David MacGibbon - Thomas Ross - -Release Date: December 02, 2020 [EBook #63940] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - available at The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF -SCOTLAND FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY; VOL. -1/3 *** - - - - - THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE - OF SCOTLAND - - FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE - SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. - - - - - _Edinburgh: Printed by George Waterston & Sons_ - - FOR - - DAVID DOUGLAS. - - LONDON, SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, AND CO., LIMITED - - CAMBRIDGE, MACMILLAN AND BOWES - - GLASGOW, JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS - - - - - THE - - ECCLESIASTICAL - - ARCHITECTURE - - OF SCOTLAND - - FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE - SEVENTEENTH CENTURY - - BY - - DAVID MACGIBBON AND THOMAS ROSS - - AUTHORS OF “THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND” - - _VOLUME ONE_ - - [Illustration] - - EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS - - MDCCCXCVI - - _All rights reserved._ - - - - -PREFACE. - - -While engaged upon their work on _The Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland_, the authors were frequently brought in -contact with the various ecclesiastical structures throughout the -country, and they naturally availed themselves of such opportunities to -make notes and sketches of these interesting edifices. - -These notes and sketches, together with others made during a long series -of years, formed a considerable fund of information and a collection of -drawings, the possession of which has induced the authors to undertake -the completion of the illustration and description of the Ancient -Architecture of Scotland, by adding an account of the Ecclesiastical to -that of the Castellated and Domestic Architecture of the country already -given to the public. - -The size of the former book has been found to be somewhat restricted for -many of the illustrations of the churches, but it has been thought best, -for the sake of uniformity, to adhere to the same size and style as in -the former work. - -The subject of the Castles and Mansions, having been previously little -investigated, afforded a fresh field for enquiry. The history and -gradual development of the design and construction of these buildings -had to be wrought out and arranged in periods according to the dates and -the peculiarities of the structures, and an appropriate nomenclature -had to be invented. These considerations added greatly to the interest -of the subject. - -In Ecclesiastical Architecture the case is different. The various styles -and periods of Gothic architecture, both in this country and abroad, -have for long been carefully investigated and defined. It thus only -remains to apply to our Scottish edifices the system already adopted in -the rest of Europe. An attempt is made in this work to do so, and -attention is drawn to the various points in which Scottish Church -Architecture agrees with and differs from that of other countries. - -It has been suggested that our Ecclesiastical Architecture might be -arranged in connection with the various orders of ecclesiastics by whom -it was employed, and the specialities of the architecture of the various -orders pointed out. This matter has not escaped attention; but it has -been found impossible to form a system of nomenclature on that -foundation. - -The more this subject is investigated, the stronger is the conviction -that there is, in this country at least, practically no difference in -the style of architecture of the different orders of Churchmen from the -twelfth to the sixteenth century. The cathedrals and parish and other -churches were all built on general and well understood principles. The -monasteries also were all constructed on the same general plan. Whether -the occupants were Canons Regular or Monks of the Cistercian, -Tyronensian, Premonstratensian or other order, or even Franciscans or -Dominicans, their convents were all designed on one general system. - -The plan consisted of an open court or cloister, surrounded by a -covered walk, having on one side (generally the north side) the nave of -the church; while on the east side, in connection with the transept, lay -the sacristy, chapter house, and frequently the fratery or day-room of -the monks, on the upper floor of which range extended the dormitory, -library, &c. The south side of the cloister was occupied by the -refectory and kitchen; and the west side contained cellars and stores, -and apartments for the lay brothers and guests. - -These dispositions were sometimes extended and modified, but were -invariably adhered to on the whole. - -None of our Scottish monasteries are sufficiently well preserved to -exhibit these arrangements in their entirety; but the various portions -of the different convents which survive always correspond with the parts -which would be expected in the positions they occupy. - -As regards the style of the architecture and ornamentation, the only -difference observable is that which is common to all the structures of -the respective periods. - -While it is intended to include in this work all the examples of ancient -church architecture discoverable in Scotland, such subjects as ancient -sites, demolished structures, and mere foundations do not fall within -its scope, and are only referred to incidentally. These matters belong -to the province of archæology, not to that of architecture. - -Most of the ancient ecclesiastical structures of the West Highlands and -Islands, and also those of Orkney and Shetland, being of a special and -somewhat indefinite, although very interesting, character, are treated -separately, before the main subject of the work is entered on. - -In connection with the churches of Orkney and Shetland, the authors have -to express their obligation to Sir HENRY E. L. DRYDEN for his kindness -in allowing his drawings and descriptions of these buildings to be -incorporated in this work. They have also to thank the COUNCIL of the -SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES OF SCOTLAND, with whom these drawings and -descriptions are deposited, for their permission to use them. - -The descriptions of the churches of the Highlands and Islands are, as -stated in the book, chiefly abstracted from the late Mr. T. S. MUIR’S -interesting volumes. - -The authors further take this opportunity of returning their sincere -thanks to the many friends and well-wishers who have rendered them -assistance in their labours. The names of many of these gentlemen are -mentioned in connection with a number of the different structures. They -would also express their indebtedness to all those whose permission was -necessary to enable them to visit and make drawings of public and -private buildings, which permission was invariably freely given. - -They have specially to acknowledge their indebtedness to Dr. JOSEPH -ANDERSON, of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, for his goodness in -revising the portion of the work dealing with Celtic Art; to Mr. T. S. -ROBERTSON, Architect, Dundee, and Mr. WILLIAM GALLOWAY, Architect, -Wigton, for their assistance in supplying drawings, and otherwise; and -to Dr. DICKSON, late of the Register House, Edinburgh, for valuable aid -in many ways. - - EDINBURGH, _January 1896_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -INTRODUCTION. - - Various branches of early art in Scotland--Cells of - Anchorites--Celtic art--Round towers and sculptured monuments, - succeeded by Norman and Gothic architecture--Native - developments--Previous writers on Celtic art (3)--Primitive - Christianity--_Candida Casa_--Crosses and caves--St. - Palladius--Irish monasteries--Wattles--Beehive cells - (7)--Cashels--“Deserts”--Christian structures (9)--Irish MSS. and - slabs--Symbolic sculptures--St. Columba--Iona--Missionaries from - Northumbria--Lindisfarne--Roman influence--St. Augustine--Benedict - Biscop--St. Winifred (12)--Pre-Norman churches--Columbans - expelled--Culdees--Roman system introduced (14)--Revival of Celtic - system--Celtic art (15)--Symbols (16)--Upright slabs - (17)--Development of design of--Sculptures, origin of--Western - crosses (20)--Early Ecclesiastical Structures in Scotland - (24)--Beehive huts--Churches--Round towers (26)--Brechin and - Abernethy--St. Regulus--Churches erected by Queen - Margaret--Alexander I.--David I.--Parochial system (31)--Romanesque - architecture (32)--Vaulting, development of (34)--Subordination of - members (35)--Norman Style, examples (36)--Norman Style in Scotland - (38)--First Pointed Style (39)--Salisbury Cathedral (41)--France - and England compared (43)--Examples of the style (45)--First - Pointed Style in Scotland (46)--Derived from England (47)--Examples - (48)--Architecture of Fourteenth, Fifteenth, and Sixteenth - Centuries in Scotland (50)--Divided into Decorated and Late Pointed - (52)--Middle Pointed or Decorated Style (53)--Middle Pointed or - Decorated Style in Scotland (55)--Examples--Third or Late Pointed - Style (58)--Examples--Third or Late Pointed Style in Scotland - (60)--Effects of English and French influence (62). - - -CELTIC MONASTIC AND ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES IN SCOTLAND. - -I. SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES, ASSOCIATED WITH BEEHIVE CELLS AND -CHURCHES IN GROUPS. - - PAGE - -Eilean Naomh, Argyleshire, 66 - -Skeabost, Skye, 68 - -Mugstot, Do., 69 - -Howmore, South Uist, 70 - -Kilbar, Barra, 71 - -II. HERMITS’ CELLS, 73 - -The Chapel of St. Ronan, North Rona, 73 - -Teampull Sula Sgeir, 75 - -Flannain Isles, or Seven Hunters, 77 - -Teampull Beannachadh, 77 - -III. CELTIC CHURCHES STANDING ALONE, 78 - -1. One oblong chamber. 2. Do., with modifications. -3. With architecturally distinguished chancel. 4. With -chancel or nave added. 5. With pointed arches, 79 - -(_A_) CHURCHES DRY-BUILT AND CHURCHES WITH SLOPING -JAMBS, 80 - -Tigh Beannachadh, Lewis, 80 - -Dun Othail, Do., 81 - -Carinish, North Uist, 81 - -(_B_) SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES WITH MODIFIED FEATURES, 82 - -Cara, off Gigha, Kintyre, 82 - -Eilean Munde, Lochleven, 83 - -Church of Holy Cross, South Galston, Lewis, 83 - -Teampull Pheadair, Lewis, 83 - -St. Aula, Gress, Do., 83 - -Toehead, Harris, 83 - -Nuntown, Benbecula, 83 - -Pabba, Sound of Harris, 84 - -Kilmuir, Skye, 84 - -Trumpan, Do., 84 - -_Churches showing signs of Norman influence_:-- - -St. Carmaig, Kiels, Knapdale, 84 - -Kilmory, Do., 85 - -Kirkapoll, Tiree (Ithica Terra), 87 - -Kilchenich, Do., 88 - -(_C_) CHURCHES WITH CHANCEL, OR NAVE ADDED TO AN OLDER STRUCTURE, 88 - -St. Columba, Balivanich, Benbecula, 88 - -Eilean Mor, Knapdale, 89 - -St. Columba’s, Ey., Lewis, 91 - -St. Columba, Kiels, Kintyre, 92 - -Kilchouslan, Campbeltown, Do., 92 - -Kilchenzie, Do., Do., 93 - -IV. CHURCHES BUILT WITH CHANCEL AND NAVE. - -St. Mary’s, Lybster, Caithness, 93 - -Church of John the Baptist, South Bragair, Lewis, 95 - -St. Michael’s, Borve, Barra, 95 - -(_D_) CHURCHES WITH POINTED OR LATE FEATURES. - -St. Catan’s, Gigha, Kintyre, 95 - -Kildalton, Islay, 96 - -Kilnaughton, Do., 96 - -Kilneave, Do., 96 - -Kilchieran, Do., 96 - -St. Ninian’s, Sanda, Kintyre, 97 - -St. Columba’s Isle, Lewis, 97 - -Pennygowan, Mull, 98 - -Laggan, Do., 98 - -Inchkenneth, Ulva, 98 - -St. Moluac, Raasay, 98 - -Killean, Kintyre, 98 - -Kilbride, Knapdale, 98 - -Eorrapidh, Lewis, 99 - -Olrig, Caithness, 99 - -Kilchieven or Kilcoiven, Kintyre, 100 - - -CHURCHES IN ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. - -DRAWN AND DESCRIBED BY SIR HENRY DRYDEN, BART. - -Chapel on the Brough of Deerness, 101 - -Chapel on the North Shore of Head of Holland, 105 - -Halcro Chapel, South Ronaldshay, 105 - -St. Tredwell’s Chapel, Papa Westray, 106 - -Church at Swendro, Rousay, 108 - -St. Ola, Kirkwall, 109 - -CHURCHES OF TYPE CONTAINING CHANCEL AND NAVE. - -Church on the Island of Wyre, 113 - -Church on the Island of Enhallow, 116 - -Chapel at Linton, Shapinsay, 122 - -Chapel in Westray, 124 - -Church on Island of Egilsey, 127 - -Church on Brough of Birsay, 135 - -Church at Orphir, 141 - - -CHURCHES IN SHETLAND (145). - -Chapel of Noss, Bressay, 146 - -Kirkaby, Westing, Unst, 147 - -Meal, Colvidale, Do., 148 - -St. John’s Kirk, Norwick, Do., 148 - -Church at Uya, 149 - -Kirk of Ness, North Yell, 151 - -Church at Culbinsbrough, Bressay, 157 - -General Characteristics, 159 - -Monuments, 160 - -Proportions, 161 - -Dates, 162 - -Chapel at Lybster, Reay, Caithness, 162 - -Chapel, Effigy, and Cross on Inch Kenneth, Mull, Argyleshire, 165 - - -TRANSITION FROM CELTIC TO NORMAN -ARCHITECTURE. - -Abernethy Round Tower, Perthshire, 175 - -Restennet Priory, Forfarshire, 178 - -St. Regulus’, or St. Rule’s, St. Andrews, Fifeshire, 185 - - -NORMAN ARCHITECTURE. - -Markinch Tower, Fifeshire, 193 - -Muthill Church, Perthshire, 196 - -St. Serf’s, Dunning, Do., 204 - -Cruggleton Church, Wigtonshire, 212 - -Monymusk Church, Aberdeenshire, 215 - -St. Brandon’s, Birnie, Morayshire, 218 - -St. Oran’s Chapel, Iona, Argyleshire, 220 - -Chapel in Edinburgh Castle (St. Margaret’s Chapel), 224 - -Dunfermline Abbey, Fifeshire, 230 - -St. Magnus’ Cathedral, Kirkwall, Orkney, Dunfermline Abbey, 259 - -St. Blane’s Church, Buteshire, 292 - -Dalmeny Church, Linlithgowshire, 298 - -Leuchars Church, Fifeshire, 309 - -Bunkle Church, Berwickshire, 314 - -Edrom Church, Do., 316 - -Legerwood Church, Do., 320 - -Chirnside Church, Do., 322 - -St. Helen’s Church, Do., 323 - -Tynninghame Church, Haddingtonshire, 326 - -Stobo Church, Peeblesshire, 329 - -Duddingston Church, Mid-Lothian, 333 - -St. Andrew’s, Gullane, Haddingtonshire, 339 - -Uphall Church and St. Nicholas’, Strathbroc, Linlithgowshire, 342 - -Abercorn Church, Linlithgowshire, 346 - -Kelso Abbey, Roxburghshire, 347 - -St. Martin’s Church, Haddington, 362 - -Kirkliston Church, Linlithgowshire, 366 - -St. Mary’s, Ratho, Mid-Lothian, 371 - -St. Peter’s, Peterhead, Aberdeenshire, 371 - -St. Mary’s, Rutherglen, Lanarkshire, 372 - -Lamington Church, Do., 376 - -St. Boswells Church, Roxburghshire, 377 - -Smailholm Church, Do., 378 - -Linton Church, Do., 379 - -Duns Church, Berwickshire, 381 - -St. Lawrence, Lundie, Forfarshire, 382 - -Kirkmaiden Church, Wigtonshire, 383 - -Herdmanston Font, Haddingtonshire, 384 - - -THE TRANSITION STYLE. - -Dundrennan Abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire, 388 - -Jedburgh Abbey, Roxburghshire, 398 - -Kinloss Abbey, Morayshire, 416 - -The Nunnery, Iona, Argyleshire, 421 - -St. Nicholas’, Aberdeen, 426 - -Coldingham Priory, Berwickshire, 437 - -Dryburgh Abbey, Do., 448 - -Airth Church, Stirlingshire, 465 - -Lasswade Church, Mid-Lothian, 471 - -Bathgate Church, Linlithgowshire, 474 - - - - -THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND - -FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE REFORMATION. - - -INTRODUCTION. - -Among the various branches of Mediæval Art in Europe, the Church -Architecture of Scotland fills an interesting and valuable place. This -country cannot claim to have originated a new style in the sense in -which the Ile de France gave birth to pointed Gothic, but it can show a -continuous series of Christian structures, beginning with the primitive -cells and oratories of the early Anchorites, and extending through all -the periods of Mediæval Art. - -Two distinct phases of artistic development are exemplified in the -History of Scotland--the first comprises the rise and decline of Celtic -Art in early Christian times, and the second is allied to the various -stages of general European culture. - -Of the former period abundant illustrations exist in the almost -prehistoric examples of Celtic structures of early Christian recluses, -together with specimens of round towers and innumerable sculptured -memorials and crosses, somewhat similar to those found in Ireland. These -indicate the intimate connection which formerly existed with that -country, whence Scotland derived her name, as well as her early -instruction in religion. - -The round towers and sculptured monuments are followed by primitive -examples of Norman work, pointing to the direction from which the later -phases of religious and artistic development in the country took their -origin. The Saxon and Norman influence of the eleventh century produced -a complete revolution in the artistic elements of the country, and led -to a full development of the Romanesque or Norman style of -architecture--a style similar to the round arched architecture of other -countries of Europe in the twelfth century. Of this new departure the -signs are still visible in the numerous remains of Norman structures -which are spread over the country. These consist chiefly of small parish -churches, but they also include some large and elaborate buildings, -almost entirely monastic, and one cathedral. - -The succeeding Gothic styles are also well represented in Scotland, and -include a great variety of churches, monasteries, and cathedrals. These -exhibit many fine examples of the various styles of Gothic art, and, -although comprising certain local peculiarities, show a general -correspondence with the arts of the different periods in France and -England. - -The “first pointed” style is fully represented in Scotland during the -thirteenth century; but, owing to the disastrous situation of the -country during the fourteenth century, the number of “decorated” -buildings is comparatively small. - -During the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the “perpendicular” -style prevailed in England and the “Flamboyant” in France, the -architecture of Scotland was distinguished by a style peculiar to the -country, in which many features derived from both the above styles may -be detected. - -While the Mediæval Architecture of Scotland thus corresponds on the -whole with that of the rest of Europe, there exists in the Ecclesiology -of the country an amount of native development sufficient to give it a -special value as one of the exponents of the art of the Middle Ages. Its -buildings further contribute largely to the illustration of the history -of the country by showing in their remains the condition and growth of -its religious ideas and observances at different epochs, and the manner -in which its civilisation advanced. We observe striking evidences of the -Irish influence in the relics of the primitive Celtic Church. The Norman -and Early English influences are clearly traceable up to the invasion of -Edward I., and the political and commercial connection with France and -the Netherlands is distinctly observable in the period of the Jameses. - -Till comparatively modern times the early history of Scotland was -involved in obscurity, but much light has within recent years been -thrown upon it by the works of Robertson, Skene, and others. The -religious and political conditions of the country have now been placed -upon a reliable historical basis, while its archæology has been -expounded in the works of the late Sir Daniel Wilson, and those of Dr. -Joseph Anderson and Mr. J. Romilly Allen. The numerous prehistoric -monuments of Scotland have been collected by the late Dr. John Stuart, -in his great work on the Sculptured Stories, and the Sepulchral Slabs of -the West Highlands have been beautifully illustrated by the late James -Drummond, R.S.A. - -A wide field has been explored through the patient and devoted labours -of the late T. S. Muir, by his searching out the architectural fragments -scattered over the land, and especially by bringing to light many -unknown examples of the retreats and primitive oratories of the early -Anchorites which still exist in the remote and in many cases uninhabited -islands of the West. Similar explorations have been accomplished by Sir -Henry Dryden in Orkney and Shetland, and by Captain White and Captain -Thomas in Kintyre and the Hebrides. To all these authors we are indebted -for much valuable information and guidance, as will appear in the -following pages. - -The structures and monuments of the early Celtic inhabitants of Scotland -have formed the special subject of careful investigation by Dr. Joseph -Anderson, and the exposition of the history of the remarkable and -previously mysterious Sculptured Stones has been successfully -accomplished by him in his lectures on Scotland in early Christian -times. In these lectures he has not only clearly explained the origin -and significance of these monuments and their order of succession, but -he has extended his view over the whole field of Celtic culture, both in -this country and in Ireland, and has explained the relations of its -different phases to one another, thus disclosing the unity and beauty of -that remarkable and independent development of art culture which existed -in these countries from the sixth to the twelfth centuries. - -We have also the benefit of Dr. Reeves’ and Dr. Petrie’s well-known -works on Irish History and Archæology, and the magnificent volumes of -Lord Dunraven on Early Irish Architecture, so ably edited by Miss -Stokes. In the following introductory sketch of the Early History and -Artistic Development of Scotland, free use has been made of the above -and other works, in order to place before the reader a continuous -account of the religious and artistic progress of the country from the -earliest dawn of Christianity till the great Revolution of the sixteenth -century, which severed the connection between mediæval and modern times. - - * * * * * - -The earliest trace of Christianity in Scotland is connected with the -founding of a church, the name of which still survives in a structure of -a much later date. This primitive church was erected by St. Ninian, a -Briton, who seems to have settled in the end of the fourth century -amongst the Picts, on the south coast of Galloway, with the view of -there maintaining the Christian faith already introduced by the Romans. - -St. Ninian is said to have studied in Rome, and, on his return journey, -to have visited St. Martin, at Tours, who supplied him with masons to -assist in the erection of a church, built of stone, in the Roman manner. -This was known as the _Candida Casa_ (now Whithorn), which was built -about the year 412, and dedicated to St. Martin of Tours. It became a -great school of instruction in Christian doctrine,[1] but after a time -the Christianity of this locality appears to have died out, or was -transferred to Ireland. It is believed that some of the emissaries from -this school in the fifth century may be traced in the dedications of -churches amongst the Picts, as, for example, St. Ternan, at -Banchory-Ternan; St. Mocholmoc, at Inchmahome; and St. Fillan, at the -place named after him on Loch Earn. At Abernethy, in Perthshire, King -Nectan is said to have been raised from the dead by St. Bœthius or -Buitte, who came from Ireland, accompanied by St. Bridget and her ten -virgins. The Saint, as a reward for his miracle, was presented with the -fortress which existed at the place, just as the Irish ecclesiastics -were established (as will be pointed out) by the chiefs in their raths -or strongholds.[2] This king also built a church at Abernethy in honour -of St. Bridget (about 480)--a foundation which afterwards became famous. - -[Illustration: FIG. 1.--Early Crosses near Whithorn.] - -It tends to confirm the truth of the early mission of St. Ninian to the -Southern Picts, that the monumental stones which still survive in that -region are engraved with incised crosses of the oldest form, and are -accompanied with inscriptions in debased Roman capital letters, -containing the formula “hic jacet”--all marks which indicate a very -early date.[3] Such are the crosses near Whithorn and those at -Kirkmadrine, in a neighbouring parish, which all bear the simple cross -with equal arms enclosed in a circle,[4] and contain the chi-rho symbol. -(Fig. 1.) - -It should further be noted that on the south coast of the Bay of Luce, -not far from Whithorn, there exists a cave in the rocks which is -believed to have been the retreat of an early Anchorite, perhaps of St. -Ninian himself. Numerous crosses of early type, incised on the rocky -walls and on the steps of a short stair leading down to the cave, prove -that it has been occupied for religious purposes at an early date;[5] -while on the Isle of Whithorn are the ruins of a church, which may -possibly occupy the site of the original _Candida Casa_ of St. -Ninian.[6] - -Another cave in the rocks on the shore of the opposite side of the Bay -of Luce, still known as St. Medan’s Cave,[7] has also apparently served -as the abode of an Anchorite. It consists, like the retreat of St. -Cuthbert at Farne (to be afterwards described), of an oratory and an -outer apartment for ordinary uses. - -Numerous similar caves, which have been used for the like sacred -purpose, are still to be found in many parts of the country, -particularly on the West Coast. - -After the decadence of the School of _Candida Casa_, Christianity in -Scotland seems to have been in abeyance, till it was revived in the -sixth century by the arrival of fresh light and energy from Ireland. -From that period till the twelfth century the religion and culture of -Scotland were entirely derived from that country. It is therefore -necessary, in order to follow the origin and development of ecclesiology -and art in Scotland, to trace generally their history in Ireland, and to -mark the influence of the latter country on the former. - -Owing to the disturbed state of Britain after the withdrawal of the -Romans in the beginning of the fifth century, and the eruptions of the -Goths in Gaul, many Christian refugees found their way to Ireland. -Christianity was thus introduced, and, during the fifth century, spread -rapidly under the instructions of St. Palladius, a reputed emissary of -Rome, and St. Patrick, the patron Saint of Ireland. At first the Church -seems to have assumed a peculiar collegiate form, consisting of groups -of seven bishops placed together in one church; but in the sixth century -the monastic rules were introduced, and at once took root and spread -with wonderful rapidity amongst the various tribes. Under St. Finnian, -after a short time, there are said to have been three thousand monks in -the monastic school of Clonard. Columba, one of his twelve disciples, -born in 521, founded several monasteries in Ireland, amongst others -those of Derry and Kells, Raphoe in Donegal, and Durrow in Meath. - -In 558 the great monastery of Bangor was founded by St. Comgall, one of -Columba’s companions, and is said to have contained thousands of -monks.[8] - -These monasteries were tribal institutions, and were well suited to the -social relations of the country. The abbots were connected with the -leading families of the tribes, and succeeded one another according to -the rules of succession which prevailed amongst the chiefs. Many of the -monasteries were established with the consent of the chiefs, and it -frequently happened that on such occasions a “rath,” or native fortress, -was presented to the founder by the head of the tribe, as a place of -security in which his monastic dwellings might be erected.[9] These -structures were generally of a slight and simple nature, consisting of -huts made of branches or wattles, covered with turf or clay. The -churches or oratories were also constructed with wood. The whole -establishment seems to have resembled the primitive fortresses of the -Celts, consisting of a great enclosing wall or rampart, with temporary -erections within. At a later time wooden boards were substituted for -wattles, and the roofs were covered with thatch. Dr. Reeves states that -St. Palladius erected three churches of oak, while St. Patrick is said -to have built one with stone, because no wood was to be found in the -locality.[10] - -The practice of building with wood was the favourite one amongst the -“Scots”[11] in Ireland, and we shall find further examples amongst their -disciples both in Scotland and England. Dr. Reeves states that the -“Scotic” attachment to wooden churches continued in Ireland till the -twelfth century, and that although stone churches existed, they were -regarded as of foreign introduction. These wooden structures, it is -needless to remark, have all long since disappeared, having been -replaced by more permanent edifices. - -Although building with wattles and wood was the usual form of -construction in Ireland in the early centuries, it was not the only one. -When monasteries were established (as above mentioned) within the -“raths” or fortresses by the chiefs, certain native forms of building in -stone were found to exist in connection with these structures.[12] The -rath was invariably surrounded with a lofty wall of great thickness, -composed of unhewn stones mingled with earth. The exterior face of the -wall was carefully built with “headers,” and in many instances chambers -were constructed in the thickness of the wall, and roofed with -overlapping stones in the form of an arch, but without the radiating -structure of a true arch.[13] Chambers of similar construction are also -often found in the walls of the brochs, and in the Eirde houses and -other Celtic structures in Scotland. - -[Illustration: FIG. 2.--Beehive Cell on Skellig Mhichel. (From _Scotland -in Early Christian Times_.)] - -Besides the great “cashel” or enclosing rampart, other stone buildings -existed within the rath. These consisted of circular or oval huts, built -with unhewn stones without mortar. They are generally about 6 to 10 feet -in diameter, and the interior has sometimes square angles. The walls are -3 to 4 feet in thickness, and rise perpendicularly to about 6 feet in -height, when they begin to converge towards the centre, the stones -overlapping as they rise with a curve till they nearly meet, when the -aperture is covered in on top with flagstones. The external appearance -of these primitive abodes presents a domed form like that of a beehive, -from which circumstance they are called “beehive huts” (Fig. 2). There -is invariably a small doorway about 4 feet high, with a straight lintel -on top, and the jambs are always built, not perpendicularly, but with an -inclination inwards as they rise. A small square opening in the roof, -greatly splayed towards the interior, forms the window of the hut. Stone -structures of this description were common in certain parts of Ireland -in Pagan times.[14] These were the native originals from which the Irish -monks derived the style of stone building which was afterwards adopted -by them in certain localities, with modifications as time progressed. - -The Celtic monks of the early centuries showed a strong predilection for -islands as the sites of their monasteries. Almost every loch and river -show evidence of this choice in the ruins scattered over the country, -and some small detached and rocky islands situated a few miles from the -West Coast of Ireland (where they have been little exposed to -disturbance) yet contain specimens of the above primitive structures. -The great enclosing cashels and the singular beehive huts have been -beautifully illustrated and described in the splendid work of the late -Lord Dunraven on Ancient Irish Architecture, edited by Miss Stokes. - -It was one of the peculiarities of the Irish monastic system to -encourage the members to retire occasionally for a lengthened period to -some solitary place, where they might do penance and worship -undisturbed. These places of retreat were called “deserts,” and were -sought for in the uninhabited and rocky islands lying at a distance from -the mainland. It is surmised that the islands of St. Michael, Ardoilean, -and others in a similar position off the West Coast of Ireland, -containing monastic remains, were retreats of this description. - -We have seen that these establishments exhibit in their beehive huts and -cashels the tradition of the native Pagan style of building derived from -the raths of the converted chiefs. In addition to these primitive -erections, they further contain evidences of certain structural elements -imported in connection with the introduction of Christianity.[15] For, -besides the circular cells of the monks, they invariably comprise one or -more small churches or oratories. These are structurally distinguished -by having square angles on plan, both externally and internally, and by -having the joints of the stones generally cemented with a certain amount -of mortar. The roofs were constructed like those of the huts, with -overlapping stones carried up with a curve to a pointed ridge. These -churches are of small dimensions, and form a simple oblong chamber set -with its greater length towards the east and west. They have a small -door in the west end with inclined jambs and straight lintel, and a -small square-headed window to the east. The above Christian form of -church was, however, not fully adopted at first, many of the early -Irish churches retaining the native form of construction--_i.e._, the -walls, both of sides and ends, rise in a curve from the foundation to -the ridge of the roof, which is formed of overlapping stones, and the -whole presents the appearance of an inverted boat with a sharp keel. -These churches are built with dry stones, carefully constructed.[16] -They are often associated with pillar stones, inscribed with crosses and -inscriptions in Roman letters of the most ancient form,[17] and are -supposed to be of the age of the Saints whose names they bear, dating -from the fifth to the seventh centuries.[18] They were succeeded in the -seventh and eighth centuries by a somewhat more advanced type, forming a -transition from the dry-built and rough stone structures to buildings -cemented with mortar, and having the stones dressed. To these were added -chancels in the ninth and tenth centuries, having radiating chancel -arches, which are invariably semi-circular, and have inclined jambs. The -church of St. Kevin at Glendalough presents a good example of a chancel -added to a primitive single-chambered church. Ornament was gradually -introduced, but the Irish characteristic of the stone roof, supported on -an arch, was retained in small structures up to the twelfth century. As -time progressed the original overlapping form of arch was superseded by -the true radiating arch. In the case of the larger churches, however, -the roof seems generally to have been constructed with wooden rafters -and shingles.[19] - -The radiating arch appears to have been introduced about the same time -as the chancel, and was by degrees applied both to doors and windows, -but the sloping form of the jambs continued in use till the introduction -of the Norman style.[20] - -The religious enthusiasm which pervaded the Irish monasteries was very -great, and displayed itself in the numerous offshoots and missions which -they sent out, not only to the neighbouring countries of England and -Scotland, but also to Gaul, Switzerland, Germany, and Italy. Rude and -primitive as were their dwellings, the Celtic monks excelled in several -departments of art and literature. Their chronicles of events are almost -our only guide to the history of the country in those early times, and -the writings and illuminations of their religious books are marvels of -beautiful caligraphy and design. The forms and features of their -drawings and illuminations are of a marked and special character, and -are found prominently displayed not only in their MSS., but on all -objects of Celtic production, such as gold and silver ornaments and -shrines, and the sculptured crosses and architectural enrichments of a -somewhat later date.[21] - -The earliest stone monuments in Ireland consist, as in Scotland, of rude -pillar stones, bearing plain incised crosses, accompanied with -inscriptions in debased Roman capitals. These are succeeded by -sepulchral slabs, shaped and dressed, which were laid flat over the -graves, and were carved with various forms of the cross extending over -the entire surface, and sometimes covered with interlacing ornament. But -the upright cross-bearing slabs, which we shall find are so common in -Scotland, were almost unknown in Ireland. At Clonmacnoise there are 179 -of these recumbent cross-bearing slabs, the ascertained dates of which -extend from 628 to 1278; of these only sixty-seven bear any ornament -except the cross. The earliest with ornament dates from 806, and many -others belong to the ninth, tenth, and eleventh centuries.[22] Free -standing crosses of fine design are also numerous in Ireland. They are -generally covered with pictorial sculpture of Scriptural subjects; they -date from the tenth to the twelfth centuries. They usually bear on the -obverse a representation of the Crucifixion,[23] and on the reverse a -figure of Christ in glory. These sculptures occupy the principal place -at the junction of the arms with the upright shaft, and the remainder of -the cross contains figure subjects, arranged in panels, representing -events symbolical of the Redemption, and leading the mind up to the -principal subject. Amongst the most common are the Temptation of Adam -and Eve, the Sacrifice of Isaac, Jonah and the Whale, Daniel in the -Lions’ Den, &c. - -Symbolic sculptures, representing hunting scenes, grotesque animals, -&c., so common on the Scottish monuments, are also occasionally found on -the Irish crosses, but do not occur so frequently as on the former. The -peculiar and unexplained symbols so universally found on the Scottish -monuments are, however, entirely absent from those of Ireland. - - * * * * * - -Amongst the earliest fields in which the energy and enterprise of the -Irish monastic missionaries found an outlet were naturally the adjoining -lands of Kintyre and the islands on the West Coast of Scotland. From the -beginning of the sixth century an emigration had been going on from -Dalriada, in Ulster, to these regions, and settlements had been formed -and a large part of the country taken possession of, extending as far -north as Mull, and including part of the mainland of Argyll. In 560, -however, Brude, King of the Northern Picts, led an expedition against -the invaders, and drove them back from most of their possessions. A -desire to retrieve this reverse, combined with zeal to spread the -benefits of religion amongst the heathen Picts, is supposed to have led -to St. Columba’s mission, and to the foundation of the Monastic Church -in Scotland. In 563 St. Columba, with twelve disciples, sailed from -Ireland for Dalriada, in Scotland. After visiting some of the islands -and founding a cave-chapel at Loch Coalisport, which is still traceable, -he finally, with consent of the Picts, settled at Iona. There he found a -remnant of an early Church of Secular Bishops, but they yielded to the -stronger monastic element now prevailing.[24] - -The monastery founded by Columba at Iona was of the ordinary style of -the Irish establishments above described. Adamnan, in his _Life of -Columba_, mentions that the buildings were constructed with wattles and -turf, and the roofs covered with thatch. Besides the church and the huts -for the brethren, there was a special cell for the abbot, a larger hut -for a refectory, and another for strangers. The whole was enclosed, as -usual, with a high wall or rampart. About a century after Columba’s time -some improvement seems to have been made on the rude system of building -with wattles. Adamnan, who lived about that date, describes how, in -renewing the structures of the monastery, oak boards were used, and the -roof was covered with thatch. - -The Church established in Iona followed the example of its Irish -founders, and sent out missionaries in all directions. In 565 St. -Columba visited King Brude in his stronghold on the river Ness, and -succeeded in converting the king and the Northern Picts. This mission -seems to have been partly political, as it was also successful in -establishing the Irish colony of Dalriada in possession of its territory -under its own king.[25] During the sixth century numerous churches were -founded throughout Scotland and in the Western Islands by St. Columba -and his companions, St. Brendan, St. Comgall, and St. Cainnech,[26] -whose names still survive in the dedications of many of these -structures. - -The Pictish King Brude was succeeded by King Gartnaid, who fixed his -royal seat at Abernethy, in Perthshire. There he is said to have built a -monastery (580-590) and dedicated it to St. Bridget, to whom, as we have -seen, an earlier church had been dedicated in the same locality. St. -Cainnech is said to have established himself in a “desert” at Kilrimont -(St. Andrews),[27] thus indicating the early foundation of these -well-known religious sites. The Cumbrian Church was also founded about -this time at Glasgow by St. Kentigern, a friend of Columba’s. St. -Columba died in 597, and, after his death, Iona was acknowledged as the -head of all the churches and monasteries which had been established in -Scotland. - -But the influence of this Church soon spread beyond the boundaries of -that kingdom. Oswald, son of Aidilfrid, having been driven from -Northumbria, found refuge in Iona, and there acquired a knowledge of -religion and literature. Having regained his throne, he sent, in 635, to -Iona for monks to introduce the Christian faith amongst his people. St. -Aidan was the first of these missionaries sent, and, with the king’s -consent, he fixed his monastery on the island of Lindisfarne. He also -founded monasteries at Old Melrose and Coldingham, then within the -bounds of Northumbria. It was to the Columban Church thus established -that the Angles between the Humber and the Forth owed their permanent -conversion to Christianity. After a time St. Aidan was succeeded by St. -Cuthbert, who continued and extended this pious work. But after being -twelve years in charge of Lindisfarne, St. Cuthbert retired, like so -many of the same monastic school, to a “desert” or hermitage, situated -on the solitary island of Farne, more distant from the mainland than -Lindisfarne. Here he erected his hermit’s cell, the account of which, -given by Bede,[28] is most interesting, as it so fully explains the -nature of such structures. The enclosure was circular, and about 4 or 5 -perches in diameter. Externally the wall was about the height of a man, -but in the interior somewhat higher, owing to the soil and rock having -been excavated. The wall was composed of massive unwrought stones and -turf. The enclosure contained a dwelling-place divided into two parts, -one being an oratory and the other a room suitable for common uses. The -roof was formed of rough beams and thatched with straw. At the -landing-place outside the enclosure a large house was erected to give -shelter to the monks when they visited the hermit. Although called for a -time to the Bishopric of Lindisfarne, St. Cuthbert again retired to his -hermitage, and there expired A.D. 687. - -When the Columban Church had existed in Northumbria for about thirty -years, new influences arose, before which that monastic form gradually -declined. The principal of these influences came from the South, and was -part of that steady pressure from Rome which by degrees brought all -Churches into uniformity of doctrine and observance. England was to a -great extent the spiritual child of Rome, having been reconverted to the -faith by the direct intervention of the Pope after the desolation caused -by the heathen Danes. This was accomplished by the mission of St. -Augustine, who was sent by Pope Gregory to England in 596 for the -reformation of religion. The ecclesiastics from Rome brought with them -the Roman forms and observances and the Roman mode of building. Thus St. -Augustine, so soon as he was established in Kent, set about the -erection, at Canterbury, of a cathedral, with two towers attached to the -nave and a circular baptistry, in imitation of St. Peter’s at Rome. -Other instances occur of the introduction of building with stone after -the Roman manner. Bede describes how Benedict Biscop, in 676, brought -masons from Gaul to carry out buildings in stone, and how the churches -of St. Peter at Monkwearmouth, and St. Paul at Jarrow, were erected by -Benedict Biscop (670-80) with stone, “according to the manner of the -Romans.” Bede further mentions that Nectan, King of the Northern Picts, -sought, in 710, for masons to be sent to him from Monkwearmouth, who -should build churches for him according to the fashion of the Romans. - -St. Winifred, Bishop of York, the great opponent of the Columbans in -Northumbria, had also erected stone churches in the seventh century -after the Roman manner at Hexham, York, and Ripon. - -Northumbria was at this period (during the seventh and part of the -eighth centuries) the most powerful and advanced portion of England. It -was the nursery of learning and poetry, the home of Bede and Caedmon. -Religion also flourished, as is proved by the remains of the -pre-Conquest churches which still survive.[29] Many of these show traces -of the works of the ancient Romans in the country, being built, partly -at least, with Roman wrought stones from the ruins in the district. The -influence of the Columban period is observable in the numerous crosses -carved with Celtic work which still survive in Northumbria. - -The pre-Norman churches have some peculiarities. They are remarkable for -the height of the walls, as compared with the width of the building. -Thus at Monkwearmouth and Jarrow (erected by Benedict Biscop in the -seventh century), the width of the nave is 18 feet, while the height of -the walls is 30 feet. The carved lacertine figures of the porch at -Monkwearmouth have likewise a Celtic character. Square towers at the -west end of the nave form common features of these churches, and the -jambs of the doors and windows are often inclining, like those of -Ireland. Some of these features may be observed in one or two of our -Scottish churches, such as that of St. Regulus at St. Andrews and -Restenot Priory. - -As the Roman influence prevailed, that of the Columbans waned, till, -finally, that of Rome was, after the Synod of Whitby in 664, definitely -adopted, and the Columbans were driven off. After the expulsion of the -Columbans from Northumbria, the Roman forms and observances were -gradually extended over the southern parts of Scotland, then included in -the dominions of Oswy, King of Northumbria. Various circumstances tended -to aid this process. When the victory of the Picts at Dunichen, in 685, -terminated the rule of the Angles in Scotland, Nectan, king of the -Celtic kingdom, was brought into contact with the Roman missionaries, -whom he found in his extended southern provinces, and became, in 710, a -convert to their ideas. He seems to have warmly espoused their cause, -and desired that their rules and forms should be universally adopted -throughout his kingdom. But the Columbans still clinging to their own -observances, King Nectan at length, in 717, issued a decree, expelling -from his dominions all ecclesiastics who refused to conform to the Roman -practices. - -Up to this period there had been an increasing tendency to asceticism in -the Columban Church, leading the monks to forsake the cœnobitical or -monastic life in common, and to adopt that of the hermit or Anchorite. -This had the effect of breaking up the monastic system which had -hitherto succeeded so well amongst the Celtic tribes of Ireland and -Scotland, and also tended to encourage the introduction of the secular -hierarchy of the Roman system.[30] - -The hermits were known on the Continent as Deicolæ, or Worshippers of -God, and in this country by the title of Keledei or Culdees. The similar -order which arose in the Celtic Church afterwards played an important -part in Scottish ecclesiastical matters. They first appear in Scotland -after the expulsion of the Columbans--the establishment of St. Serf on -an island in Lochleven being of this school. - -The Deicolæ were organised in 747 as an order of Secular Canons with the -object of bringing the secular clergy into a cœnobitical life, so as to -help to counteract the then prevailing tendency to the eremitical mode -of living. The nature of the structures erected under the latter form of -religious observance is well illustrated in the cells and oratories -already alluded to, which were erected in such numbers on the lonely and -deserted islands on the West Coasts of Ireland and Scotland. - -The advent of the Roman emissaries in Scotland is embodied in several -mythical legends. Such is the story of the arrival of St. Boniface with -a complete following of persons representing all the offices of the -Roman service, and his favourable reception by King Nectan indicates the -goodwill with which they were welcomed.[31] The dedications of churches -to St. Peter, superseding the dedication to the ancient native Saints, -further mark the change from Iona to Rome. - -The assimilation of the Church to the Roman system, and the introduction -of the secular clergy, led in Scotland, as it had done in Northumbria, -to the secularisation of the monasteries. Through the operation of the -Celtic rules of succession they fell into the hands of laymen, who -retained the title of abbot, and with it the possession of the monastic -lands, but without any pretence to clerical office.[32] The old Celtic -system of monasticism thus perished, first, from internal decay and -change to the eremitical system; and, second, from its being gradually -superseded by the introduction of the secular clergy on the Roman -system. - -Meanwhile at Iona, and in all the Western Islands and coasts, a new -enemy to the Columban establishments sprung up. In 794 the Northern -Rovers made their first appearance, and during many succeeding years the -monastery of Iona was frequently attacked and pillaged, the monks being -slain or driven to seek safety in Ireland. The connection between -Ireland and Scotland was thus almost entirely severed during the ninth -century, and the Columbans having (as above stated) been expelled from -the Pictish kingdom, the previous active relations between the Church in -the two countries was for the time entirely brought to a close. - -In Alban or Pictland a revolution seems to have occurred about the year -850, and Kenneth M‘Alpine, a king of the Scotic race, ascended the -throne of the Picts. By him an effort was made to re-establish the -Columban Church. For this purpose he erected a chief religious centre at -Dunkeld, and brought to it some of the relics of St. Columba, with the -view of making it an inland Iona. However, in the latter half of the -ninth century, the see of the primacy was removed to Abernethy, in -Perthshire. Here, Cellach, Abbot of Kildare and also of Iona, had sought -refuge from the persecution of the Norsemen in Ireland, and there he -died in 865. Irish clergy who had returned to Scotland are thus found at -this period at Abernethy, and Dr. Skene supposes that the round tower -which still stands there was probably erected about this date.[33] The -increasing strength of the Roman influence may be gathered from the fact -that in 878-89 King Giric is said to have “given liberty to the Scottish -Church;” the meaning of which is, that he decreed that all church lands -should be free from secular exactions.[34] In 908 the primacy was -transferred to St. Andrews, and Cellach was appointed first Bishop of -Alban.[35] A church was founded at Brechin about the year 1000, and was -dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It was probably a monastery after the -Irish model, with a College of Culdees. The round tower there is a mark -of its early association with Ireland. - -The Culdees long continued to assert their position and maintain their -rights, but they became gradually absorbed into the cathedral chapters -established in the country. We thus finally arrive at the period when, -in the eleventh century, the adoption of the Roman system in Scotland, -under Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret, was completed. - -We have now followed the history of the Church in Scotland up to the -point where the two streams of influence we have been observing, one -from Ireland and the other from Rome through England, meet. We have -noticed the powerful influence of the former in imparting to Scotland, -under the Columban system, its early rudiments of education, religion, -and art. Although this phase of culture did not display itself -prominently in architectural results, yet there are other departments in -which it excelled. It is to it we are indebted for the beautiful -examples of caligraphy and decorated metal work of which the relics are -preserved in the MSS., shrines, croziers, and ornaments of the Celtic -race.[36] - -The marvellous sculptured ornaments and crosses in which Scotland still -abounds are also relics of the culture and artistic elements introduced -by the missionaries from Ireland. These features of Celtic art form one -of the most remarkable series of monuments in any country. - -In Ireland, as we have already seen, this monumental art is chiefly -exhibited in the recumbent cross-bearing slabs at Clonmacnoise and other -ecclesiastical sites, while its later development assumes the form of -free standing crosses of the Celtic pattern carved with the interlacing -ornaments characteristic of the style, or with figure sculptures -enclosed in panels, each panel representing a Scriptural or symbolic -subject. - -The Scottish sculptured monuments, although bearing a general -resemblance to the Irish, have several peculiarities. The earliest form -of sculptured monuments in Scotland, as in the other Celtic divisions of -Britain, consists of rude upright stones, engraved with an equal-armed -cross enclosed in a circle, accompanied with an inscription in debased -Roman capital letters, generally comprising the formula “hic jacet” and -the chi-rho symbol. The carving is invariably incised in the stone. We -have already met with examples of this class of monument, probably of -the fifth century, in the South-West of Scotland, in connection with the -_Candida Casa_ of St. Ninian. (See Fig. 1.) - -Certain peculiar forms of sculptured symbols, carved on undressed -upright stones, seem to have originated amongst the Northern Picts. -These symbols (Fig. 3) consist of the well-known symbol of (_a_) the -“crescent and sceptre,” (_b_) the “double disc” or “spectacles,” (_c_) -the above with sceptre, (_d_) the oblong with sceptre, (_e_) the -“elephant,” and other forms which are very common in the East of -Scotland north of the Forth, but are unknown anywhere else. The meaning -of these symbols has never been satisfactorily explained. In the -earliest monuments the symbols and occasional figures are the only -ornaments found on the stones. They are invariably incised and plain, -containing no interlaced or other ornament. It has been pointed out by -Dr. J. Anderson that these simple incised symbols probably belong to the -period before the beginning of the eighth century, when the Columbans -were expelled from Pictland by King Nectan, while the later form of -decorated monuments which succeeded them possibly dates from the return -of the Columban clergy from Ireland in the middle of the ninth century, -when they were re-established in the land by King Kenneth. - -That period probably marks the later style of ornamentation which is -found on the monuments. The original idea of an upright stone with -sculptured symbols is retained, but the monument is no longer a rough -unhewn block. It is now a shaped slab, dressed on both sides and on the -edges, and the ornamental work is no longer incised, but carved - -[Illustration: FIG. 3.--Symbols. (From Stuart’s _Sculptured -Monuments_.)] - -in relief (Fig. 4). The oblong slabs are always upright, and ornamented -on both sides, not recumbent like the Irish slabs. They generally bear -on the obverse a cross of the Celtic form occupying the full size of the -stone. This form of cross has the four angles at the junction of the -arms with the upright shaft hollowed out with a circular or square -recess, and the junction surrounded with a circular band. The oblong -form of the slab is preserved entire, and the portions of the surface on -each side of the cross are usually covered with sculptures representing -symbols or interlaced patterns arranged in panels (Fig. 5). The cross -itself and the other figures are carved with elaborate designs of -interlaced work, or with frets or divergent spirals. The reverse of the -slabs is also covered with sculpture representing symbols and -conventional or symbolic figures (Fig. 6). The sculpture on these stones -bears a close resemblance to the designs of the Celtic MSS., so close, -indeed, that each sculptured monument might be a page of MS. carved in -stone. This indicates, as pointed out by Dr. J. Anderson, that the -designs were first wrought out and brought to perfection on the pages of -the MSS., and reproduced at a subsequent - -[Illustration: FIG. 4.--Cross at St. Madoe’s, Perthshire.] - -period on the stone monuments. The earliest Celtic MSS. date from the -end of the seventh century, while the decorated slabs are probably of -the ninth to the twelfth centuries.[37] - -A distinct change or progressive development is observable in the forms -of the sculptures and ornaments of the above monuments. The Celtic -design gradually gives place to new features which bring it into -conformity with the decorations of the MSS. and metal work and the -general progress of the country. It thus at length becomes merged in the -general design of the twelfth century, as introduced from the South -along with the other effects of the Roman influence. The interlaced -work, spirlets, and fret work give place in course of time to scrolls -and leaf ornaments (Fig. 7). The crosses, formerly enriched with -divergent spirals, become carved with leaf or flower patterns, the -peculiar Pictish symbols disappear, and the Celtic cross gives place to -the more ordinary Norman form. Upright cross slabs are abandoned and -recumbent slabs take their place. - -Amongst the later examples, Scripture scenes similar to those on the -Irish crosses are introduced in the panels, together with numerous -hunting pieces and figures of men and animals. Dr Anderson[38] shows -distinctly that the Scriptural scenes are debased and barely -intelligible representations of symbolic subjects from the Bible, such -as Adam and Eve, the Sacrifice of Isaac, David Slaying the Lion, &c. -Similar subjects are common in the Catacombs of Rome, where they are -painted so as to be easily recognised; but in course of time, and after -many imperfect efforts to copy them, they became reduced to the -conventional forms seen in the Celtic sculptures, the meaning of which -can only be explained by following the designs back to the originals. -Dr. Anderson also shows that the hunting scenes, with men on horseback, -dogs, &c., and the grotesque - -[Illustration: FIG. 5.--Logierait, Perthshire. (From _Scotland in Early -Christian Times_.)] - -animals represented, often with much spirit in the sculptures, are -derived from the symbolic mediæval bestiaries. These figures, which at -first sight might be regarded as secular or grotesque, are thus proved -to be symbolic of Christian doctrine and moral teaching, like many of -the later and more naturalistic carvings in the Gothic churches. In the -hunting scenes the hart panting after the waterbrooks represents the -soul pursued by its worldly enemies; the shooting of the wild boar with -arrows symbolises the conversion of heathen savages to Christianity; the -pelican, with its young, is a symbol of the Resurrection; the lion, the -eagle, the phœnix are types of Christ; the fox and hyena of the -devil.[39] - -The above monuments of the East of Scotland are, as we have seen, almost -all of the upright slab form, bearing the cross on the obverse. Only a -very few free standing crosses exist in that region. Some examples of -transition character are, however, found which form a connecting link -between the upright slabs and the free standing crosses. These consist -of cross bearing slabs having the circles, at the junction of the arms -with the shaft, cut through the stone. It then only remained to cut away -the remainder of the slab and leave the cross free. - -[Illustration: FIG. 6.--At Rossie Priory, Perthshire. (From _Scotland in -Early Christian Times_.)] - -[Illustration: FIG. 7.--St. Vigeans, Forfarshire. - -(From _Scotland in Early Christian Times_.)] - -In the West of Scotland, on the other hand, the principal form of cross -is the free standing one. In consequence of the invasions of the -Northmen, this part of the country was in a great state of disturbance -for a long period after the expulsion of the Columbans from the East, -and little monumental work seems to have been done.[40] There are, -however, a few fragments of free standing crosses at Iona, and one fine -specimen at Kildalton, in Islay, which exhibit the same characteristics -in their sculpture as the pure Celtic upright slabs of the East. (Fig. -8.) When monumental sculpture was revived in the West, at a considerably -later date, its style indicates connection with Ireland rather than with -the East of Scotland. Free standing crosses abound, and the upright -slabs carved on both sides are rare; the grave slabs being recumbent, -like those of Ireland. The symbols peculiar to the East are also -entirely wanting. It seems also that the monuments of Argyllshire and -the Western Islands (as at Iona, &c.) were influenced by a style of -sculpture imported from the Continent, of which examples exist at Durham -and Hexham. These “are not Celtic, but a debased local survival of -Romanesque forms.”[41] - -The late Western crosses have, further, this peculiarity, that the -circular band round the head of the cross is not cut free, so as to -present an independent ring of stone, but forms a solid disc, from which -the ends of the arms and top project. (Figs. 9 and 9A.) These crosses -generally contain a representation of the Crucifixion, which is almost -unknown in pure Celtic work. The carving also ceases by degrees to be -distinctively Celtic, and consists generally of scroll work and foliage. -(Fig. 10.) These features were adhered to in this region for centuries -after the Celtic work of the East had entirely given place to the -general Gothic art of the rest of Europe. (Fig. 11.) The monuments of -the West thus retain a very special character, the foliage of the -designs being unique and original, and in many cases of much beauty. -This peculiar design continued as late as the sixteenth century, several -good dated examples of that period being still preserved, mixed with -debased Gothic features. The architecture of the locality is naturally -much influenced by this style, as will be pointed out when Iona is -described. - -It can scarcely be doubted that many of the Scottish sculptured stones -are of about twelfth century date. The sculptures on them represent the - -[Illustration: FIG. 8.--St. Martin’s Cross, Iona.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 9.--M‘Lean’s Cross, Iona.] - -same scenes, and are derived from the same source, as many of those -carved on the tympana and fonts of Norman churches. Such sculptures are -found on churches dating from 1135 to 1190, and almost no figure -sculpture is found on churches of an earlier date. The subjects carved -on the churches are similar to those on the crosses, such as Adam and -Eve, David and the lion, Daniel and the lions, hunting scenes, animals, -monsters, and symbolic figures derived from the bestiaries. (See Dalmeny -below.) The latter figures continued to be used on Gothic structures -till a comparatively late date. - -[Illustration: FIG. 9A.--Island of Oronsay. (From _Scotland in Early -Christian Times_.)] - -[Illustration: FIG. 10.--Kilchoman Cross, Islay.] - -The sculptured crosses of the East of Scotland thus naturally connect -themselves with the current design of the period in other countries. -They are no longer the mysterious and unintelligible monuments they - -[Illustration: FIG. 11.--From Iona.] - -were once supposed to be. By the able investigations and expositions of -the writers above referred to, they are brought into harmony with the -general art of Europe prior to the twelfth century, and are shown to -hold a prominent place in the artistic history of the country. - -It is remarkable, notwithstanding the abundance of sculpture on the -early monuments, that, until the advent of the Norman influence, -scarcely any indication of architectural details or sculpture occurs on -the churches of either Ireland or Scotland. - -The earliest sign of decoration on buildings in Ireland is seen in the -form of a cross, composed of five white pebbles, inserted over the -doorway, in the dark stone of which the beehive cells of Ardoilean are -built. Some of the round towers contain very early instances of -symbolism in the Celtic cross carved on the lintel, while late examples -(such as Brechin) show a further advance in the introduction of a -Crucifixion on the lintel, and other figures on other parts of the -doorway. The carving of the cross on the above and other lintels is -probably symbolic of the blood of the lamb which was struck on the -doorposts of the Israelites in Egypt at the Passover.[42] - - -EARLY ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES IN SCOTLAND. - -The ecclesiastical structures of the early centuries which still survive -in Scotland are of the type of the stone erections above described in -the monasteries of Ireland. The beehive huts and oratories of the parent -eremitical establishments in the latter country are represented by a few -similar collections of structures which yet remain in the remote islands -and distant parts of Scotland. - -Groups of dry-built beehive huts (or the remains of them), surrounding -one or more primitive churches, can still be pointed to in several -localities. These are surrounded with the wall or cashel which was -always present around the Irish monasteries. - -Diminutive dry-built stone cells or oratories, with sloping or curved -walls, having the roof closed in with overlapping stones, converging -towards the centre, and covered with flag-stones, are still found in the -remote islands. One oratory also exists at Inchcolm where the stone roof -is supported by a true arch, as in some of the latest Irish examples. It -should, however, be pointed out that huts of similar construction to the -above are known to have been erected and inhabited in recent times in -the Outer Hebrides.[43] The hermitages above referred to, although -belonging to this oldest type of structure, may thus possibly not be the -oldest buildings in the country. - -At a later time the rude monastic cells and hermitages were followed by -the churches established by the missionaries from Iona. The Scottish -churches erected by the Columbans were, like those of Ireland, of -extreme simplicity, and generally of small dimensions. They consisted of -a simple oblong chamber, with a single door and a single small window. -The walls were often built without mortar, and the wall apertures were -finished with undressed stones. These structures were sometimes covered -with a plain barrel vault, and sometimes with rafters and thatch. The -jambs of the doorway incline inwards and have straight lintels; the -windows are either square-headed or rudely arched. Until the Romanesque -influence is felt, not a trace of any kind of ornament is to be found on -these churches. Latterly, a few details resembling Norman work are -introduced. - -In other examples of this type the details are more advanced. The door -jambs are upright and are covered with semi-circular arches, and the -windows are also similarly treated. The buildings, however, possess few -features to enable the date of their erection to be determined. They may -possibly have all been erected during a long course of years at -different times in different localities, according to local -circumstances; but it is natural to suppose that those of the more -refined type are the latest. - -Another class of churches forms a distinctly later type than the above -simple quadrilateral structures. These are the churches consisting of a -nave and chancel. Not that the method of construction or the details of -these churches show any advance on the previous class. On the contrary, -the details are in many cases as simple and rude as those of the -one-chambered churches; but the alteration of the ground plan, by the -addition of a separate chancel, shows a development of the religious -service, leading to the inference that the type of churches with -chancels is later than the single-chambered ones. This, however, only -shows that the idea is later, not that single-chambered churches did not -continue to be erected after the chancel had, in some instances, been -introduced.[44] The persistence of an original form of plan is -remarkable and is well exemplified in the history of the castles of -Scotland, which shows how the primitive keep-plan of the thirteenth -century continued to be adopted up to the seventeenth century, long -after other and more developed forms of castles had been introduced. - -The tendency in churches, however, seems to have been to adhere to the -chancel plan after its introduction, and even to alter older simple -churches by the addition of a chancel to one-chambered structures. Of -this we have mentioned an instance in Ireland at St. Kevin’s oratory at -Glendalough, and we shall meet with examples in Scotland as we proceed. -In other instances, primitive oratories have been converted into -churches with chancels by the addition of a nave, the original oratory -being retained as the chancel. We have thus a transitional plan forming -the link which connects these primitive single-chambered churches with -the more advanced type of church with nave and chancel. In most of these -early churches the chancel forms a separate apartment from the nave, the -entrance to the chancel being by a doorway only, generally similar in -size and form to that of the western entrance to the nave. - -The chancel arch occurs, in some instances, as a later development. -This, together with a few other details, seems to point to the influence -of the Continental or Romanesque style which was slowly beginning to -make itself felt in some parts of the country. All the above types of -structures have been thoroughly examined and described by Mr. Muir, and -will be more fully dealt with in the detailed descriptions of the -churches derived from Mr. Muir’s works. - -There still remain some special examples of Celtic structures to be -mentioned. These are the well-known round towers, of which those at -Abernethy and Brechin have already been referred to. A third round tower -is also found attached to the church of Egilsay, in Orkney.[45] These -towers are, undoubtedly, all examples of a style imported from Ireland. -They are detached specimens of a group, of which no fewer than -seventy-six examples still exist in that country, besides twenty-two -others which are known to have existed formerly. It has been shown by -Dr. Petrie that the Irish round towers were erected as places of refuge -in connection with monasteries, to which the monks might repair with -their relics and treasures in case of alarm. Such shelter was only too -much required, as the valuables of the monastic institutions formed a -very tempting bait for pillage by the Norsemen, whose depredations were -so alarming during the ninth century. - -The history of the round towers of Ireland is easily traced in their -architecture, and has been fully explained and illustrated by Dr. Petrie -in his well-known book on the subject, and in the late Lord Dunraven’s -beautiful work on the early structures of Ireland. These towers are -always found associated with religious sites. The earliest examples are -comparatively rude in structure, while the later ones gradually improve -in style of masonry and finish, until the latest are built with ashlar -work, and contain some Romanesque ornaments and details. In all, -however, the leading principles of their construction are the same. -(Fig. 12.) The tower is round on plan, and is finished on top with a -conical roof. The door is narrow, and is placed, for security, at a -considerable height above the ground, and the lower floor is sometimes -built up solid, so as to resist conflagration. The windows are small, -except those on the top story, which are generally set facing the -cardinal points, and are larger, so as to allow the sound of the bell to -be heard--one of the uses of the tower being to serve as a belfry. The -Irish practice of inclining the jambs of the doors is maintained, and in -the early examples the lintel is straight, while in the later ones the -door is finished with a semi-circular arch, and enriched with several -orders of mouldings and ornaments bearing a markedly Norman character. -This remark applies also to the four windows of the top story, which are -plain in the early examples, and gradually become more ornamental and -Norman like. The Irish towers are almost invariably built alone, and -free from other structures; but some late examples are constructed in -connection with churches, and enter from them by a door on the level of -the floor of the church. The idea of using these towers as a place of -security is thus departed from, and they are then simply of use as -belfries.[46] Finally, they become absorbed into the structure of the -church, and are erected merely to serve as belfries on the gable. - -In the three Scottish round towers we find the same characteristics as -in those of Ireland. The tower at Egilsay (_q.v._) is rude in style of -masonry, but as - -[Illustration: FIG. 12.--Irish Round Tower at Devenish. (From _Scotland -in Early Christian Times_.)] - -it enters from the church on the level of the floor, it is evidently of -the late type above referred to. The towers at Brechin and Abernethy -(_q.v._) are built with more carefully selected and wrought materials, -and both have the door, which is built with inclined jambs, set some -feet above the ground. The latter has the four upper windows covered -with semi-circular arches, showing a considerable amount of Norman -character in the mouldings and enrichments, as well as in the style of -masonry. That at Brechin has a door with sloping jambs, having a -Crucifixion carved above it and dragonesque sculptures at the base, and -other details connecting it in a marked manner with the style of the -round towers of Ireland. There can be no doubt that these are outlying -examples of the Irish class of towers, while they exhibit also some -features of the Romanesque architecture which, in the eleventh and -twelfth centuries, had penetrated thus far northwards. - -The next step in architectural progress consists of another structure, -comprising a tower of a character somewhat related to the above, but -having the Norman character more fully developed. This is the church of -St. Regulus at St. Andrews (_q.v._), the tower of which is lofty and -square. This tower may be compared to the square tower of Cormac’s -Chapel at Cashel, in Ireland, which is stated by Dr. Petrie, on good -authority, to have been finished by 1135.[47] They both possess Norman -features, well developed, and their square form and close attachment to -a church are elements which distinguish them from the other and older -round towers. Probably, however, they were also intended, like the -latter, to form places of secure retreat as well as belfries. Both bear -the signs of being late buildings of their class. - -The dates of all the Irish round towers are somewhat uncertain, but -probably extend from the ninth to the twelfth centuries, having, as -already stated, been erected at the time of the invasions of the -plundering Northmen. The dates of the destruction of several are -recorded, and have been collected by Dr. Petrie, who also shows that -many churches which had been destroyed by the Northmen were repaired and -rebuilt about 1150.[48] - -It is believed that in Ireland a form of Romanesque was introduced -before the Anglo-Norman invasion,[49] and many of the early ornamented -churches show a style of carving in which the Irish interlaced work and -other special details are introduced. But in Scotland there are no -traces of churches containing any similar work, although, possibly, some -may have existed and been swept away in the great rebuilding epoch which -followed the Norman Conquest. - -The earliest examples of anything like ornament in Scottish churches -within the historic period are undoubtedly the outcome of the Roman -influence introduced under the Normans. We have already referred to the -effects of early Roman influence at St. Regulus; and the next earliest -building, the date of which is thought to be recorded, is the Reilig -Oran at Iona (_q.v._), a simple single-chambered structure, with a west -doorway containing Norman ornament. This is said to have been erected by -Queen Margaret before 1093.[50] - -The chapel in Edinburgh Castle bearing St. Margaret’s name is also -attributed to her, and is supposed to have been erected during her -lifetime, or shortly afterwards. It would, in that case, be the first -example in Scotland of a church terminating with an eastern apse (which, -however, is square on the exterior). - -Whether these buildings were actually erected in Queen Margaret’s -lifetime or not, they certainly belong to a period not long subsequent. -The life of that Queen and Saint marks the period of transition in -Scotland from the old system to the new, not only in building, but in -every other department. - -Edgar Aetheling, the heir of the old Saxon kings, having been driven out -by the Conqueror, found refuge, along with his mother and sisters, in -the Court of his relative, Malcolm Canmore. There Margaret, having -become Malcolm’s wife, soon introduced many of the reforms and -ameliorations she had learned in England. Particularly, she gave a -distinct impetus to the Roman influence, then very strong in the South, -and encouraged the hosts of Saxon refugees who now crowded to Scotland, -bringing their advanced notions with them. The same tendency was -manifested by Margaret’s sons, Edgar and Alexander, who followed her -footsteps in endeavouring to assimilate the Scottish Church to that of -England. - -It was King Alexander who, being driven by a storm on the Island of -Inchcolm, in the Frith of Forth, was rescued and sustained by a hermit, -who then occupied a primitive cell, built on the island, similar to -those of the Columbans above referred to. The king vowed, in -thankfulness for his deliverance, to found a monastery on the spot, and -in 1123 he here introduced a colony of Canons Regular. He also -endeavoured to bring the Episcopacy of St. Andrews into conformity with -the Roman model. - -Under Alexander,[51] Turgot, the Prior of Durham, and biographer of St. -Margaret, was appointed to the long vacant See of St. Andrews. This king -also founded the Bishopric of Moray, and restored that of Dunkeld. In -the former wild Diocese the churches of Birnie, Spynie, and Kinedor -appear to have existed, but it was not till 1203 that Bricius, the sixth -bishop, was able to fix his cathedral at Spynie. - -In 1115 Alexander introduced a colony of Canons Regular to Scone, from -Nastley Abbey, in Yorkshire, and some years later he brought canons to -the Diocese of Dunkeld, and in 1122 he founded a Priory of Canons -Regular on an island at the east end of Loch Tay.[52] - -Alexander was succeeded by his brother, David I., who carried out -vigorously the same ecclesiastical policy. While still Prince of -Cumbria, he, about 1115, appointed an inquisition of the elders and wise -men of Cumbria to inquire into the lands and churches which formerly -belonged to the See of Glasgow. The Prince appointed his tutor John to -the revived bishopric, and in 1147 a dean and chapter, after the model -of Sarum, were introduced. On his accession to the throne David -proceeded diligently with the establishment of bishoprics and -monasteries. It is said of him by Ailred of Rivaux[53] that, “Whereas he -had found in the whole kingdom of Scotland three or four bishoprics -only, what with ancient ones which he restored and new ones which he -founded, he left nine at his death.” The bishoprics which existed at his -accession were those of St. Andrews, Moray, and Dunkeld. Those he -founded were the Dioceses of Rosemarkie, Ross, Aberdeen, and Caithness. -Glasgow, as we have seen, he re-established, and the See of Galloway was -also restored. - -Under King David I. a final effort was made to suppress the Culdees, or -rather to absorb them into the general system as approved by Rome. Those -of St. Andrews were with difficulty dispossessed. The Culdees of -Lochleven were suppressed. Those of Monymusk, in Aberdeenshire, were -brought under the control of the Bishop of St. Andrews. Not only were -the old establishments suppressed, but new monastic orders were -everywhere introduced, Dunfermline Abbey was remodelled and Benedictines -brought to it from Canterbury. The same order was introduced at Urquhart -in Inverness-shire. After Moray had been brought into subjection, the -Monastery of Kinloss was founded and peopled with Cistercians from -Melrose. Of other monastic institutions throughout the country many -others were re-established on a new footing and received the -benefactions of the king. In 1113 he had (as Earl) founded a monastery -at Selkirk for Benedictine Monks of the Order of Tyron. This was -afterwards removed to Kelso, while the establishments of Melrose, -Dundrennan, Newbattle, Coldingham, Holyrood, Cambuskenneth were fostered -and strengthened. - -The efforts of King David in the first half of the twelfth century -carried out vigorously in Scotland the system inaugurated by St. -Margaret, which was, indeed, the distinguishing feature of the period -throughout Europe. He, no doubt, had policy as well as religion in view, -and believed that in importing numerous bands of educated monks into the -border lands of his kingdom, both in the North and South, he was doing -the best possible to spread the benefits of education and civilisation -in those unsettled localities, and was thus consolidating his dominion. - -At this period the Saxon refugees were followed into Scotland by large -numbers of Norman knights. These were well received by King David and -presented with lands in the outlying districts, which he had subdued, as -well as throughout the country. The number and extensive possessions of -these Norman immigrants are most apparent in the names of the -proprietors settled in every part of the country.[54] - -The policy of colonising the outlying and turbulent districts with these -trained knights is apparent. They would in self-defence help to keep the -country in order, and defend it from the attacks of the still unsubdued -regions of the North and West. It also had the effect of facilitating -the spread of the Roman ecclesiastical system which the king had so much -at heart. The country, being parcelled out in the hands of Anglo-Normans -already imbued with the principles and practices of that system, would -soon be brought into conformity with it. Each proprietor would, as soon -as possible, raise a hamlet round his castle for his retainers, and a -village church for their religious requirements. Thus there speedily -arose, instead of the ancient tribal arrangements, a new distribution of -the land into parishes, each with its parochial church and priest, and -each tithed to its own manor. - -Evidences of these early parish churches still survive in many places, -and they will be illustrated in the sequel. - -But “this goodly framework of a parochial secular establishment was -shipwrecked when scarcely formed.”[55] Monachism was then in the -ascendant in Europe. New Orders were constantly being created, to spread -the banner of Roman supremacy. Their monasteries soon drew to themselves -all that was worth having in the Church. The Lords encouraged them and -presented them with lands and churches, and the people were attracted by -their zeal and asceticism. They soon became rich and were able to -indulge their taste in the erection of noble monasteries and churches, -the illustration of which, erected during the three succeeding -centuries, forms a most important part of the following pages. - -Having traced the course of the influences which affected the primitive -ecclesiastical structures of Scotland till the period when the Irish -influence was superseded by that of Rome, it is now proposed to glance -shortly at the origin and development of the Norman style which, as we -have seen, was introduced into this country in the twelfth century, and -of the various styles of Gothic architecture which succeeded it. - - -ROMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE. - -After the fall of the Roman empire in the fifth century, a debased style -founded on Roman models prevailed over Western Europe, and - -[Illustration: FIG. 13.--Roman Arch--Pont du Gard.] - -as the various waves of barbarians swept over the empire and settled in -different parts of it, they adopted the Roman system of construction -which they found in existence, and imported into it gradually ideas of -their own. In course of time a method of building was thus developed -which is known as the Romanesque style. This style varied greatly in -different localities, according as it was influenced by the presence or -absence of Roman structures to serve as models for imitation; but over -the whole empire it retained a certain amount of resemblance to Roman -forms. - -The Roman principle of an arched, as distinguished from a trabeated, -style of building was preserved everywhere, but was for long applied in -a very simple and merely imitative manner. When, however, nationalities -came to be settled, and law established, and when at the same time the -regulating and disciplining influence of the Church made itself felt, -some elements - -[Illustration: FIG. 14.--Romanesque Arch.] - -of order and regularity were introduced into the system of construction. -The large and massive building materials employed by the Romans not -being usually available by the builders of the Middle Ages, smaller -materials had to be utilised, and this led to the introduction of new -ideas in their application. For instance, the arches supporting walls -were, under the Romans, constructed with large materials, and had a -broad soffit or under surface going through the wall (Fig. 13); but with -the smaller materials in use in the tenth and eleventh centuries, -arches, for the same purpose, were more conveniently built in rings, one -within the other (Fig. 14). These rings were placed so as to present to -the eye, instead of a flat soffit, a series of arches arranged in stages -or steps towards the centre, and each bearing a part of the load of the -wall. This subdivision of the original plain soffit is called the -“subordination” of arches, and was the first step in the long process of -advance which led finally to the perfect Gothic architecture of the -Middle Ages. - -The next step was to divide the solid square piers which had been -originally employed to support the arches into a number of distinct -parts corresponding to the rings of the arches, thus forming “orders” in -the piers, as well as in the arches they carried. (See Fig. 14.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 15.--St. Trophime, Arles.] - -Owing to the occurrence of frequent fires in the wooden roofs of early -churches, the builders aimed at carrying out the Roman practice of -fireproof vaulting. This was at first done timidly and with many -failures. The round barrel vault of the Romans was that generally -employed; but in Provence the pointed barrel vault (Fig. 15) was -adopted from an early period, being a form which exerted on the side -walls a less horizontal thrust than the semi-circular arch, and was the -best shape for supporting a stone roof laid upon it. In order to -strengthen this vault, a projecting ring or inner arch was constructed -under the main vault, and extended across the nave between each pair of -the main piers. - -Carrying out the principle of subordination already introduced, each of -these strengthening rings had a shaft with cap and base placed so as to -receive it, thus indicating to the eye the principle on which it -acted--viz., that of carrying the weight of the strengthening rib down -to the foundation. - -[Illustration: FIG. 16.--Groined Vault.] - -By the eleventh century the principle of subordination had been carried -out into every part of the structure, and some refinement was beginning -to be attempted; shafts were substituted for the plain orders of the -piers, and a cap and base provided for each (see Fig. 14), and the sharp -angles of the orders of the arch were softened by having large roll -mouldings wrought upon them. The next step in the progress of -development was the subdividing or groining of the vault, so as to admit -of windows for the purpose of lighting the upper part of the building, -which, with the barrel vault, was found to be very dark. (Fig. 16). Many -different plans were tried to improve the lighting of the vault, but -without satisfactory result, till recourse was had to the intersecting -vault of the Romans, still visible in many structures then surviving. -This mode of vaulting consisted in the introduction of a vault crossing -the structure between each set of piers at right angles to the main -vault, and it had at once the desired effect, as it enabled the side -walls containing windows to be carried up as high as the top of the -vault, thus giving ample light. Other very important consequences -followed from this improvement of the vaulting. Hitherto, with the -barrel vault, the pressure had been uniform over the side walls, which -were made very solid to resist it; but with the introduction of the -groined vaulting, the weight of the vault was concentrated on the points -where the groins rested. This necessitated the strengthening of these -points, which was managed by means of buttresses. These are simply -portions of wall set at right angles to the building in order to receive -the weight and thrust of the arches and carry them down to the ground. -The portion of the side wall between the buttresses was thus relieved -from any pressure beyond its own weight. It is evident that an entire -change in the principles of the construction of the edifice would thus -be created. The buttresses now became important members both in the -construction and the appearance of the building. The side walls, being -now mere enclosing screens, might be reduced from their previous massive -condition, and made as thin and light as desired, while the windows in -them might be enlarged to any extent. The same remarks apply to the side -aisles, the vaulting of which was also groined and supported on -buttressed points like the main vaults. With the solid materials of the -Romans, the groins or lines of meeting of the intersecting arches formed -simple curved lines or angles; but with the smaller materials of the -mediæval architects this construction could not easily be accomplished, -and it became usual to construct the groins with a solid stone rib, at -first plain, but in later examples enriched with a roll moulding. - -The development of mediæval architecture reached the point above -described during the course of the twelfth century. The Romanesque -architecture of Lombardy, Germany, and Burgundy had wrought out the -arrangement of the groined vaulting and the distribution of the forces -arising therefrom, and the designing and construction of the necessary -buttresses. The subordination of the various members, the division of -the piers and arches into orders, each performing a distinct function, -the erection of a vaulting shaft at each pier to receive the ribs of the -vaults, the construction of ribs to form the groins and carry the panels -of the vaults, had all been fully accomplished. Each shaft was supported -on a base and crowned with a cap to receive its load, and each order of -the arches received an appropriate moulding or enrichment. Thus far were -the constructional features of a genuine arched style of construction, -in stone, wrought out during the course of the eleventh and early part -of the twelfth centuries. - -The forms of the ornament kept pace with the development of the -construction. In the earlier centuries the Romanesque style had become -stereotyped, the general features being regarded as wrought out, and -invention limited itself to the elaboration of details and ornaments. -Hence it arose that much of the Romanesque ornament was overloaded and -inapplicable to its position. But as advances were made in the direction -of improving the vaulting and other constructional elements, the -builders’ energies were also directed towards improvement of the -decorative features, the heavy unsuitable ornaments were discarded, and -lighter and more appropriate forms introduced. - -This new phase of architecture was adopted by the Normans with their -usual energy, and during the twelfth century was carried out by them, -both in Normandy and England, to an advanced state of development, thus -constituting the well-known Norman style. - - -NORMAN STYLE. - -This style is easily recognised by its simple and massive forms and its -semi-circular arches. The exterior (Fig. 17) is generally plain, with -broad and slightly projecting buttresses attached to the building, and -sometimes - -[Illustration: FIG. 17.--Church of St. Cross, Hampshire. Elevation of -the East End. (From Britton’s _Antiquities_.)] - -crowned with pinnacles. The doorways are, however, generally treated in -a more ornamental manner. They are often deeply recessed, and have the -jambs decorated with a series of round shafts set in square nooks or -recesses, and furnished with richly-carved caps and bases. The arch - -[Illustration: FIG. 18.--Durham Cathedral. The Nave. (From Billings’ -_Durham Cathedral_.)] - -mouldings, which are also numerous, are arranged in square steps or -orders, and frequently ornamented with much carving of special kinds of -enrichments. Of these the chevron, or zig-zag, is most abundantly used, -together with the billet, the bird’s head, &c. The windows are wide in -proportion to their height, and are covered in with round arches. - -In the interior (Fig. 18) the Norman piers consist of simple cylindrical -columns of great size, frequently carved with large zig-zags or spiral -lines carried round them, and finished with bold caps and bases. The -most frequent caps are of the “cushion” form, which resembles one or -more spherical figures having portions cut off perpendicularly. The caps -are also sometimes carved with human or other figures. The abacus is -always solid, and generally square in shape. In some examples, -especially in France, the capitals of the piers are frequently carved in -rude imitation of the Corinthian form and foliage. - -Late examples show the piers subdivided into the clustered form, which -became universal in the subsequent periods. In the transition from -Norman to Early Pointed, many of the features of the latter style are -gradually introduced. Hence a mixture of the round and pointed arch, and -a lightening of the mouldings, and a new kind of carving of foliage are -observable in the latter half of the twelfth century. The earlier Norman -edifices are extremely plain, scarcely any ornament being used. The -figure sculpture is almost entirely confined to the period after 1135. - - -NORMAN STYLE IN SCOTLAND. - -Of the cathedrals, monasteries, and churches erected in Scotland during -the twelfth century, only a few portions now exist, nearly all of them -having been reconstructed or altered at later times. - -The Cathedral of Dunblane still retains a tower of the foundation of -King David; and in the nave of the Cathedral of Kirkwall, commenced -1136, we yet possess a noble Norman structure, which, however, we owe to -the piety of the Norwegian occupants of the Orkneys. - -Of the monastic foundations of St. Margaret and her sons we still retain -the venerable Norman nave of Dunfermline, and portions of the Norman -edifices of Holyrood, Dryburgh, and Jedburgh. - -Kelso Abbey Church, although only a fragment, is a fine specimen of the -late style of the twelfth century. Arbroath Abbey, founded by William -the Lion in 1178, still shows in its ruins some late work of the same -period. Holyrood, Jedburgh, and St. Andrews contain much work of the -period of transition from the Norman to the First Pointed style, which -came into use about the beginning of the thirteenth century. - -Of the twelfth century parish churches, those of Dalmeny and Leuchars -are nearly complete and very beautiful examples, the former having nave, -choir, and apse, and both exhibit much of the arcaded and ornamental -work of the more florid period of the style. Portions of Norman work are -found, as was to be expected in this great church-building epoch, in -every county, and are represented here by a tower, there by a chancel -arch, elsewhere by a door or a window, or other fragmentary -relic--rarely by a whole nave or chancel. In some examples the Norman -plan is still complete so far as the outline of the walls is concerned, -but these are generally considerably altered and interfered with, as, -for example, at Duddingston, Stobo, and Uphall. The parish churches were -usually of small size, and consisted of an oblong nave and chancel, -separated by a chancel arch generally ornamented with chevron -enrichments. Frequently there was a semi-circular apse beyond the -chancel, also entered by an enriched semi-circular arch. Side aisles -were rarely introduced. The only Norman parish church of cruciform plan -was that of St. Nicholas, Aberdeen, now greatly altered. - - -FIRST POINTED STYLE. - -The Norman style of architecture continued to prevail in England till -near the close of the twelfth century, and in Scotland for some time -thereafter. At that period a further and completer development awaited -the architecture of the Middle Ages. We have seen that the -“subordination” of all the parts had been achieved, together with the -use of the groined vault, with its accompanying buttresses and -pinnacles, in the round arched style. The employment of the round arch -was, however, found to involve many practical difficulties in connection -with the vaulting. The bays of the nave, so long as they were _square_ -in plan, could be conveniently vaulted with intersecting semi-circular -groins; but when they were of an oblong form, the width being greater -than the length (as was often found necessary in order to suit the -vaulting of the side aisles), the round arch was found very inconvenient -in consequence of the large arch which spanned the nave rising to a -greater height than the smaller arch of the side walls. It was -endeavoured to overcome this difficulty by stilting the arch of the side -vault so as to make its apex of the same height as the main transverse -vault; but this scheme interfered with the lines of the groins or -intersection of the vaults in such a manner as to render it unworkable. -It therefore became necessary to seek for a more flexible form of arch, -which would enable the apex of all the arches of the vaults, whatever -their span, to rise to any required height. This useful form was -discovered in the pointed arch, which had long been in use in Provence, -and which the builders of the North of France now found themselves -forced to adopt by the exigencies of their vaults, and which ultimately -led to the development of the pointed style. - -The new life and growth of architecture which, as we have seen, sprung -into existence in the twelfth century, had been adopted with eagerness -by the builders of the Royal Domain of France. Not being trammelled by -the traditions of an ancient and long-used system, these architects had -thrown themselves with energy into the new development of architecture, -and it was in this locality that the application of the pointed arch to -the difficulties of the vaulting seems to have been first successfully -carried out. - -As early as 1144 the pointed vaulting of the side chapels of the -Cathedral of St. Denis was completed by the Abbé Suger. Some time -elapsed until the effect of this new system of vaulting was fully -realised, either in France or England; but when its advantages were at -last seized, the pointed arch was speedily adopted. At first it was -applied in both countries, for the sake of strength, to the main bearing -arches; but gradually the round arch was superseded, and the pointed -form adopted, for the sake of harmony, in all wall openings. The pointed -style thus became completed in its main elements towards the close of -the twelfth century. The pointed form of the vaulting gradually ruled -every other feature. The large windows of the clerestory, being near the -vaults, naturally assumed the same pointed form as the wall ribs, and -the other windows and the doorways speedily followed, in sympathy with -the general movement. - -The fresh vigour of the mouldings and foliage begun under the Normans -went on improving in the pointed style, and the energy and devotion of -the builders in France and England wrought out in each country a -separate pointed architecture, each founded on the use of the pointed -arch, but each showing original and distinct elements. - -In France there is visible, in the early pointed architecture, a -constant effort to attain to some new development--a restless striving -after novel and more expanded forms, leading to great magnitude and -height in the churches, many of which were, in consequence, never -finished. In England, while novelties of design are sought after, there -is more contentment and completeness in the architecture. There is not -the same soaring ambition and striving after spacious buildings and -lofty vaults; consequently, the English cathedrals and large churches -are more frequently finished, a greater amount of attention being -devoted to rendering the structure complete and varied in its different -parts than in the production of one great and striking result. The -English cathedrals are thus more picturesque, while those of France are -grander in appearance. The former effect is produced by the multiplicity -and variety, as well as the completeness, of all the parts, many of the -English cathedrals (as Salisbury, Fig. 19) having double transepts, -eastern lady chapels, large vaulted cloisters, detached chapter-houses, -&c.; while the grand effect of the French cathedrals arises from their -great size and height, and the apparent unity and simplicity of the -design. In one respect the cathedrals and churches of the two countries -greatly differ. Owing to - -[Illustration: FIG. 19.--Salisbury Cathedral. View from the North-East. -(From Britton’s _Cathedrals_.)] - -their immense height, the French churches require a vast quantity of -lofty buttresses and pinnacles, which, to the eye accustomed to those of -England, produce a feeling of confusion and unrest. The great flying - -[Illustration: FIG. 20.--(From Viollet le Duc’s _Dictionnaire_.)] - -buttresses of the multangular chevet of the French cathedrals tend to -increase this feeling, and to give the impression of an unfinished -building still surrounded with huge piles of scaffolding. The plain -rectangular east end of most of the English cathedrals, and the -comparative simplicity of the easily intelligible buttresses and -pinnacles, give an air of repose and peacefulness to these edifices -which is sought for in vain in most French examples. The portals of -France are amongst the chief glories of its churches. The doorways of -the English churches, although sometimes beautiful in detail, never -attempt to reach the magnitude or splendour of those of France. But the -side porches of the English churches are often of great size and beauty. - -When attention is directed to the details of pointed architecture, -constructional characteristics are found to pervade their design. In -France, there is visible in every element of early pointed work a -continuous effort to indicate its intention and purpose. Constructional -utility rules everything, each member is designed to perform its -function in the most perfect manner, and ornament is employed to express -that idea. By means of the square or angular abacus of the caps and -bases of the shafts, which are always set so as to show what member they -carry, an effort is made to express the motive of the design, and the -caps are carved with spirited foliage, signifying by its upward tendency -the vigour with which they perform their duty. (Fig. 20.) The shafts of -the piers, also, are so arranged and grouped and set at such heights as -to declare at once the function they perform in supporting certain ribs -and mouldings of the arches and vaults, and the tracery of the windows -gives expression to the ideas which have guided its design. The -constructional principles of the French architecture are especially -distinct in the naked, but vigorous, churches of the early Cistercians -in France. - -The details of the early English work, while equally beautiful with -French work, are not quite so expressive of growth and vigour. The -foliage is conventional in the extreme, and less suggestive of vitality -and development. The abacus of the caps, which is almost invariably -round, does not so fully express their purpose in the design, while the -mouldings with which the caps are usually ornamented fail to show the -life and spirit of the carved and foliaged caps of France. (Fig. 21.) In -the same way the introduction of tracery in the English windows lags -behind that of France. In the latter country window tracery was fully -developed by 1250, while in England the lancet form, single or grouped, -was still adhered to. In variety of clustered columns and in richness of -mouldings, however, the English style held its own. - -The characteristics of the first or early pointed style in France and -England are as distinct and apparent as those of the Norman. The general -effect of the exterior (Fig. 22) is lighter than in the latter style, -though still solid. The buttresses have greater projection and less -breadth than the Norman ones, and are often lightened by having the -outer angles chamfered. The water tables of the set-offs are also -steeper, the pinnacles are thinner and loftier, and the buttresses are -crowned with gablets and finials. In late examples the flying buttress -is introduced. The windows are invariably pointed. They are narrow and -lofty, and from their acute shape are known as “lancet” windows. Each -single window is distinct, but sometimes two or three are brought close -together and are included within one arch head, so as to form a group. -As the style advanced the arch head of such a group was perforated with -a trefoil or quatrefoil figure. Circular windows are also common, and -these came to be filled with - -[Illustration: FIG. 21.--Salisbury Cathedral. (From Britton’s -_Antiquities_.)] - -radiating shafts and trefoiled arch heads. Out of these two forms there -gradually arose a simple kind of tracery towards the close of the -period. The trefoiled head of the lancet is also a distinct evidence of -early pointed work. The doorways are deeply recessed, and have generally -free shafts in the jambs, with mouldings between. The arch mouldings are -usually in square orders and boldly cut. In the interior the piers of -the arches are much less massive than the Norman piers, and are often -composed of clustered shafts standing free, and set round a circular or -octagonal pillar. The Norman square abacus continued to - -[Illustration: FIG. 22.--Lincoln Cathedral. Compartment of the Nave, -Exterior and Interior. (From Britton’s _Chronological History of English -Architecture_.)] - -be used in transition and early first pointed work; but later, in -England, the caps of each shaft have a round abacus, and the cap itself -usually consists of mouldings, with a bell-shaped form beneath. When -foliage is employed it is invariably of the conventional form above -referred to; but in France the cap-à-crochet is almost universal. The -arch mouldings are deeply cut, and their lighter form is easily -distinguished from the heavy Norman rolls. - -The ornaments of the mouldings are also very distinctly marked, the -dog-tooth being conspicuous in all early pointed work. - -Tall towers and spires supersede the more massive and lower towers of -the Normans. In the vaults, the ribs are simple--only the cross -springers and diagonal ribs being used--a longitudinal and transverse -ridge rib is, however, occasionally employed. - - -FIRST POINTED STYLE IN SCOTLAND. - -In Scotland, as might be expected, from its remoteness from the centre -of origin, and from the fact that the pointed style was imported into -this country through England, pointed architecture is not only somewhat -later in appearing, but is to some extent modified in its developments. -The main characteristics of the early pointed style of this country are, -however, founded on those of England, and show no traces of any direct -influence from France. - -The principal difference between Scottish and English work is that the -former is later and not so completely and purely pointed in style as the -latter, the round arch and other Norman forms lingering with us in some -cases long after the pointed style had been adopted. - -During the thirteenth century the importation and settlement of -Anglo-Normans in Scotland, begun in the previous century, still -continued, and amicable relations between England and Scotland were -fairly maintained. The Norman Conquest, which had been effected with so -much violence in England, proceeded by more gentle means in Scotland, at -least for a time. The ancient Culdee ecclesiastics having been absorbed -or displaced and their revenues appropriated, the Church became -gradually settled and established under the authority of Rome, and a -stream of Englishmen continued to flow in to fill all the posts of -honour and emolument in the ecclesiastical sphere; cathedrals, -monasteries, and parish churches arose under the fresh and vigorous -impulse of the new order of things. The style of architecture practised -in England during the thirteenth century was introduced into Scotland, -and the edifices erected here could scarcely be distinguished in -character of design from those of the early English period in England. - -The pointed Gothic style, which, as we have seen, had its origin in the -North of France about the middle of the twelfth century, appeared in -England about 1170, but can scarcely be said to have reached Scotland -till after the close of the twelfth century. The Abbey of Arbroath, -founded by William the Lion in 1178, contains a few traces of transition -work, passing later into first pointed; and other structures containing -a good deal of Norman design were erected in Scotland as late as 1210. -The Anglicising process, begun in the twelfth century, was continued in -the thirteenth century. The Orders of the Cathedrals were founded on -those of England. “Thus the Chapter of Glasgow took that of Salisbury as -its guide; Dunkeld copied from the same type, venerable in its -associations with the name of St. Osmund, whose ‘use of Sarum’ obtained -generally throughout Scotland. Elgin or Murray sent to Lincoln for its -pattern, and transmitted it, with certain modifications, to Aberdeen and -Caithness. So it was also with the Monasteries--Canterbury was the -mother of Dunfermline, Durham of Coldingham; St. Oswald’s at Oxstall, -near Pontefract, was the parent of Scone, and through that house of St. -Andrews and Holyrood. Melrose and Dundrennan were daughters of Rievaux -in the North Riding; Dryburgh was the offspring of Alnwick, Paisley of -Wenlock.”[56] - -Building in Scotland appears to have gone on in the thirteenth century -as busily and with the same enthusiasm as in the previous century. But -being far from the seat of the origin of the pointed style, and having -received the principles of that style at second hand through England, -time was required for its adoption in the North, and even when cordially -welcomed there, some of the features of the earlier Romanesque still -lingered and were slowly dispossessed. - -The pointed arch, for example, although generally adopted, did not -entirely displace, as it had done in the South, the round form of the -Normans, a feature which, especially in doorways, continued to be -employed not only in the thirteenth century, but throughout the whole -course of Gothic art in Scotland. In other respects, the thirteenth -century style in this country corresponds very closely with that of -England. Its features are, however, generally speaking, plainer and the -structures are smaller. But the forms of the doors, windows, buttresses, -piers, &c., and the mouldings and enrichments are similar in character. -The wall openings frequently have the shafts detached and carrying -moulded caps, with round abacus, and the arch mouldings are arranged in -orders, each set on a rectangular plan over the shafts. The piers are -usually solid, with bold clustered mouldings and rounded caps. The -windows are almost invariably of the lancet form, either single or -arranged in couplets or triplets in the wall. - -As time progressed, these detached lancets were brought together into -groups, the wall space was gradually thinned off, so as to form mullions -between them, and frequently all are enclosed within a single arch. This -naturally led to the panel or shield in the arch being perforated with a -circle, trefoil, or other aperture, and toward the close of the period -there were indications of the introduction of the earlier form of -tracery. We have fine examples of the first arrangement at Dunblane, and -of the embryo tracery at Glasgow. - -As in the twelfth century a large extension was given to monastic -churches and parish churches, so it is to the thirteenth century that we -are indebted for the commencement and partial erection of most of our -cathedrals. - -The style of this period is fully represented in our cathedrals by the -splendid crypt and choir of Glasgow, the beautiful nave of Dunblane, the -fine, but now dilapidated, transept of Dryburgh, and the aisleless choir -of Brechin. In Elgin Cathedral we have a noble example of the later -design of the period, and the choir and western portal of Kirkwall form -a worthy completion to that fine old Norman edifice. Dornoch once -possessed the small and elegant cathedral of the North, erected by St. -Gilbert, which has now, however, been almost completely rebuilt. - -The conventual establishments of the thirteenth century, although -chiefly of older foundation, still contain a large proportion of the -work of this period. Arbroath Abbey comprises in its ruins some good -transitional and early pointed work. Holyrood Abbey, besides a good deal -of the transition style, had one of the finest west doorways of the -period, and still retains a very striking north-west tower. The first -pointed architecture is also well represented at the abbeys of -Dundrennan, Pluscardine, and Inchmahome, besides smaller specimens in -other monasteries. Kilwinning Abbey, now reduced to a portion of the -south transept, shows some beautiful work. The Maison Dieu at Brechin is -also very pure first pointed, and at Culross, Restennet, Inchcolm, and -Coldingham are many interesting fragments of this date. - -The thirteenth century parish churches are, for the most part, of small -dimensions and simple design. They generally consist of a single oblong -chamber, without choir or aisles, and are unprovided with towers. Of -these simple buildings a considerable number are to be found in the -Western Highlands and Islands. They are usually of the plainest -description, the windows being simple lancets, with wide internal splay, -though they have occasionally a double window with a mullion, and a -single plain doorway. A large number of these chapels will be described, -but, from the absence of any distinctive features connected with them, -it will be found difficult to assign most of them to any definite -period. - -The chapel at Dunstaffnage Castle, and the Church of St. Columba[57] at -Skipness, are somewhat exceptional, from the amount of dog-tooth -ornament exhibited by the former, and the two-light traceried windows at -the east end of the latter, which clearly indicate their thirteenth -century origin; while at other churches on the West Coast the lancet -windows and similar first pointed features lead to the conclusion that -many of them belong to the same period. These island chapels are, -doubtless, survivals of the first pointed structures which were erected -in the thirteenth century throughout the country, but which have been -subsequently removed to make way for larger churches. - -As the most of the Scottish cathedrals and large monastic churches were -planned during this or the preceding century, it may be well here to -mention some particulars regarding their arrangements. - -In most of the conventual edifices the choir, including the presbytery, -is short as compared with the nave. Thus, at Arbroath, the arcades of -the choir are as 3 to 9 in relation to those of the nave; at Jedburgh, -as 2 to 9; at Melrose, as 2 to 8, in the present ruined condition of the -church, but originally probably as 2 to 12; at Dryburgh, as 2 to 6. -Kelso is a remarkable exception, the choir having been much longer than -the nave, the latter being of a single bay. The cathedrals, however, -show a proportion more in accordance with the usual practice in England. -Elgin Cathedral has in the choir (including the presbytery) 6 bays, and -the same number in the nave; St. Andrews had 5 in the choir to 12 in the -nave, Glasgow has 5 to 8, Dunblane has 6 to 8, Dunkeld has 4 to 7. - -Another peculiarity of the Scottish churches is that in several the -choir is without aisles, as at Brechin, Dunkeld, and Sweetheart Abbey; -and in others, as at Melrose, Iona, Elgin, St. Andrews, &c., the side -aisles do not extend so as to include the presbytery, the object -evidently being to admit of side lights in the latter, which thus -becomes a kind of rectangular apse. - -Transepts are frequently, if not entirely, absent, as at Glasgow, where -the transept is very short, and at Dunblane and Dunkeld, where there are -none. When a transept exists, as at Melrose, Pluscardine, &c., there is -frequently a side aisle on the eastern side only, for the purpose of -containing chapels with altars facing in that direction. This -arrangement was common in Cistercian churches, but in Scotland it is not -confined to that Order. In some churches where there is a transept, the -shortness of the choir has made it necessary to carry the choir screen -across the intersection and some distance down the nave. This is very -apparent at Melrose, where the rood screen enclosing the choir crosses -the nave about the centre, and is evidently part of the original design, -as the rood screen has formed a portion of the structure of the nave -piers. - -Elgin Cathedral and Melrose Abbey have double aisles--the former on each -side of the nave, and the latter on the south side only, where the outer -aisle is divided into a series of chapels. In St. Giles’, Edinburgh, a -series of chapels forming a large second south aisle extends beyond the -usual south aisle. The above double aisles are, however, all of later -than thirteenth century date. - -The minor features of the first pointed style will be considered in -detail in describing the various structures of the thirteenth century. -Meanwhile, it may be mentioned that the doorways of this period, -although not so rich in ornament as the Norman work, are still important -objects in the design. The western portal of Kirkwall Cathedral is -especially fine, being the only example of a design comprising triple -western doorways in Scotland. The west doorway of Elgin Cathedral is -very beautiful, and is, like that of Glasgow Cathedral, a double doorway -with a central mullion. There are also examples of fine doorways in the -smaller churches, such as Lanark, and interesting specimens in the minor -doorways of the cathedral and monastic churches. - -The lancet form of the windows has already been referred to. We may -instance the east windows of Glasgow Cathedral and the beautiful windows -of Elgin and Dunblane Cathedrals as splendid examples. In the latter -cathedral the interior arcade of the clerestory shows the advancing -progress of the style; and at New Abbey the double and triplet forms of -window are seen passing into tracery. In the clerestory of this abbey -the advanced ornament of the period is observable, the simple form of -the early moulded capitals being replaced by the later foliaged design. - -No towers of importance remain in the style of the thirteenth century, -most of those attached to the churches of that style having been erected -at a later date. - - -ARCHITECTURE OF FOURTEENTH, FIFTEENTH, AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES IN -SCOTLAND. - -The reigns of Alexander II. and III., extending from 1214 to 1286, -comprised the first pointed work in Scotland. Those reigns were -characterised by quietness and prosperity at home and peace abroad. The -Norman invasion of the previous century seemed to have become complete, -and the country had settled down and accepted the new conditions -imported from the South, both as regards matters secular and -ecclesiastic. The king’s writ extended all over the land, except in the -Western and Northern Islands, and the Roman rule in ecclesiastical -affairs was co-extensive with it. The country was prosperous, and is -believed to have been more wealthy than at any time till after the Union -with England. These conditions favoured architecture, and, coming as -they did in the first pointed period, the consequence was that the -edifices erected during the thirteenth century were the largest and -contained the finest architecture which Scotland can boast of. But this -fortunate state of matters was doomed to a sudden extinction. The -disputed succession following the death of the third Alexander, in -1286, opened to Edward I. an opportunity for endeavouring to complete -the Norman conquest of the country. This, as we have seen, had been -already achieved so far as social relations were concerned, and Edward -resolved that it should also be so politically. - -The resistance of the country and Edward’s hostile attitude had the -immediate effect of causing the withdrawal of the Norman settlers, who -owed allegiance to Edward for their estates in England, along with their -dependants. These carried with them much of the civilisation and culture -which they had introduced. Moreover, the incessant state of war and -disturbance which arose during the struggle for independence, and lasted -over so many years, put a stop to all commerce and agriculture, and -reduced the country to a condition of the utmost poverty and barbarism. - -Even after King Robert’s death, in 1329, a part of the South of Scotland -remained in the hands of the English for a considerable time, and -suffered much from lying in the track of war. - -Melrose Abbey had been partly rebuilt through the pious devotion of King -Robert, but in 1385, this and other abbeys in the south-eastern -district, together with the town of Edinburgh, including St. Giles’ -Church, were again destroyed by Richard II. - -In the midst of all these depressing influences it is obvious that the -ecclesiastical architecture of the country must for a long time not only -have suffered a total cessation from progress, but must also have -endured severe injury. - -It has been pointed out how deep was the poverty of the country during -the fourteenth century, and with what difficulty the nobles, amongst -whom Bruce had distributed the forfeited lands, were able to raise even -a small pele tower for the defence of themselves and their -retainers.[58] The Church, patriotic as it was, suffered in the general -distress, and for a time funds were lacking for the completion of works -in progress, or the execution of new undertakings. - -In these circumstances, it is vain to look in Scotland for much -architecture during the fourteenth century. This being the period during -which Gothic art reached its highest expression, both in England and -abroad, it is unfortunate for Scottish architecture that it should be so -imperfectly represented by edifices worthy of that time. - -The country may be said not to have recovered from the impoverishment of -the war of independence till the fifteenth century was well advanced, -and when that period arrived, the desire for the erection of cathedrals -and establishment of monasteries had to a large extent ceased, and -endowments were, after that time, principally devoted to the erection of -smaller structures in the nature of Collegiate Institutions. - -The connection with England having now been completely severed, and a -political alliance having been formed with France, it is natural to -find a departure in the architecture of Scotland from the close -resemblance to that of England which had hitherto characterised it, and -to detect the introduction of features from abroad. These elements play -an important part in the architecture of the end of the fifteenth -century and succeeding period, and produce a mixed style, not distinctly -the same either as that of the perpendicular in England, or of the -Flamboyant in France, but a style peculiar to Scotland, which includes -elements derived from both these styles, and also retains some features -of the earlier phases of Gothic architecture. This style has a distinct -character of its own, and is in Scotland parallel to the third period of -Gothic both in England and France. - -The paucity of examples in Scotland during the fourteenth century, and -the absence in the succeeding century of any distinctly marked features -assimilating Scottish architecture especially either to the -perpendicular or Flamboyant styles of the later pointed epochs of -England and France, have led writers on the architecture of Scotland to -the conclusion that this country was entirely devoid of any -representatives of the decorated or middle pointed style, as -distinguished from the late or third pointed period, and they have, -therefore, included all Scottish architecture after the first or early -pointed period under the title of second pointed.[59] We are satisfied -that this is a mistake, and we trust to be able to show that Scotland, -although somewhat scantily represented by its architecture during the -decorated period in England, does possess a fair number of parallel -buildings corresponding in style to the decorated work of other -countries, although erected at a somewhat later date, and also that the -third or late pointed period is fully represented. - -The wars had rendered the country backward in every respect, and it is -only natural to find it backward in architecture also. - -As already mentioned, King Robert’s work at Melrose had been grievously -damaged by Richard II.; but some of it remains, and in this, as well as -other structures of the period, are exhibited beautiful examples of -decorated work. - -A considerable number of churches and monastic buildings executed about -the end of the fourteenth and first half of the fifteenth centuries are -fair representatives of the decorated period. Although not so pure in -style, nor so important in point of size as the corresponding edifices -in England, they yet exhibit, on a scale commensurate with the reduced -state of the country, a worthy effort to sustain the character of its -architecture and give expression to its devotional feelings. Some of -these structures were erected in the fourteenth century and others in -the first half of the fifteenth century, and although differing somewhat -in detail from both English and foreign examples, they possess a -sufficiently close relation to decorated work to ally them with that -style and to distinguish them from the structures of the later or third -pointed period. The buildings of the latter period, as above mentioned, -have in some respects connection both with the English perpendicular and -the French Flamboyant. - -It is therefore proposed to divide the Church Architecture of Scotland -during the fourteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries into two -periods, under the titles of the Middle Pointed or Decorated Period and -the Third or Late Pointed Period. The middle pointed or decorated style -corresponds to the decorated period in England and the fully developed -Gothic of France, and extends in Scotland from the middle of the -fourteenth century till about the middle of the fifteenth century. The -third or late pointed period extends from about the middle of the -fifteenth century till the Reformation in 1560, and corresponds with the -perpendicular or third pointed period in England and the Flamboyant in -France. The second pointed period includes a few fine structures, such -as the nave of Glasgow Cathedral, part of Melrose Abbey, Lincluden -College, Linlithgow Church, Crosraguel Abbey, &c., which contain good -decorated work, and are in every respect superior to the later -structures of the succeeding period, with which it seems to us erroneous -to class them. - - -MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED STYLE. - -Towards the close of the thirteenth century a considerable change -occurred in the features of Gothic architecture throughout Europe. The -development of the pointed style had progressed steadily, and all the -details had become lighter and more ornate. The tracery of the windows -especially marks the decorated period. This feature, as we have seen, -was invented in the previous epoch, but now became fully developed, -especially in France. In the design of the tracery the eye, which at -first had been fixed on the form of the aperture, gradually came to -dwell on the outline of the bars of the tracery, which thereafter became -the leading feature. (Fig. 23.) The early simple circular forms of the -bar tracery by degrees assumed other geometric patterns, consisting of -triangles, squares, and similar figures, skilfully combined and -diversified with cusping or feathering. Towards the close of the period -these figures assumed a more flowing character, but without entirely -losing their distinctive geometric forms. - -In England the vaulting grew lighter, and became distinguished by the -introduction of subordinate ribs or liernes, which divided the plain -surface into a greater number of panels, and ridge ribs were almost -always introduced. The points of support were also lightened, and the -buttresses were made thinner and with greater projection, and ornamented -with numerous niches and crocheted canopies and pinnacles. The -clerestory windows under the vaults were enlarged, as it was discovered -that - -[Illustration: FIG. 23.--Beverley Minster, Yorkshire. Compartment of -Nave, Exterior and Interior. (From Britton’s _Antiquities_.)] - -the solid walls between the buttresses might be dispensed with, and -their place completely filled with window tracery. The clerestory was -thus enlarged, and the triforium reduced to a mere passage, or entirely -dispensed with. From the same cause the windows of the east and west -ends, and those of the façades of the transepts, were also enlarged to -the fullest extent, so that nearly the whole space became occupied with -tracery and stained glass. - -The doorways in England, although still much smaller than those of -France, are, notwithstanding, often very fine, as, for instance, those -of York Minster (Fig. 24). The shafts of the jambs, which in the -previous period were detached and set in nooks, are now converted by -degrees into a series of mouldings wrought upon the jamb stones, and -arranged in one plane. The caps, at first distinct, gradually pass into -a series of foliaceous scrolls running along the top of the whole jamb. - -The piers are similarly treated. The clustered shafts give place to -mouldings, and the caps become carved with running ornament. The plan of -the piers is frequently that of a lozenge. A four-centred arch, forming -an ogee or reversed curve, is now introduced in water tables over -doorways. The arch mouldings are still boldly cut, and are separated by -well-marked and deep hollows, but grow shallower and broader as time -advances. The carving and foliage become lighter and more naturalistic, -the ordinary leaves and flowers of the fields being beautifully wrought -in the capitals, corbels, and bosses. The detached ball flower is a -striking feature of this period. Every wall opening is cusped and -feathered, and the niches and arcades are richly decorated. The use of -small decorative buttresses on the jambs of the doors, windows, and -niches now becomes common. - -In France the progression of the style is similar, but shows a livelier -and bolder development. There a stone vault is always essential, whereas -in England open wooden roofs are often adopted with fine result. - - -MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED STYLE IN SCOTLAND. - -For the reasons above stated, the middle pointed work in Scotland is -somewhat varied from that of England and the Continent, especially in -details. It also extends over a longer space of time, and gradually -merges into the succeeding or third pointed style. - -Until Bruce was firmly established on the throne, church building was -entirely at a standstill. But after 1314, architecture received some -encouragement from the king and began to revive. Melrose Abbey was -especially the recipient of the royal bounty, and during the fourteenth -century was, doubtless, in great measure rebuilt. It still retains much -of the decorated work of that period, and is amongst our finest -examples - -[Illustration: FIG. 24.--York Cathedral. West Front. (From Britton’s -_Cathedrals_.)] - -of the style. Dryburgh Abbey and Crosraguel Abbey were also encouraged -in their works of restoration by King Robert, and still show partial -specimens of middle pointed architecture. Glasgow Cathedral also still -preserves, almost unimpaired, its fine nave of the fourteenth century. -The nave and central tower were evidently completed before 1400, as in -that year the latter was destroyed by lightning. - -The list of churches containing specimens of middle pointed work could -be easily extended, and will be fully gone into in the sequel. -Meanwhile, the following may be mentioned as undoubtedly exhibiting -genuine examples--viz., Sweetheart Abbey and Lincluden College, in -Kirkcudbrightshire, which contain portions of early decorated work; -Linlithgow Church, rebuilt after 1424, when it was greatly destroyed by -fire; Fortrose Cathedral; St. Giles’ Church, Edinburgh; Brechin -Cathedral; Elgin Chapterhouse. - -The above buildings extend down to about 1450-60, which may be regarded -as the limit of the decorated or middle pointed period in Scotland. - -The transition to the third pointed style was gradual. - -Trinity Collegiate Church, which existed till 1848, in Edinburgh, -although not founded till 1462, preserved in the interior the character -of good middle pointed work, and is classed by Rickman as a “decorated” -structure, But the exterior shows signs of the later style, and this -structure, like several others, may therefore be classed as -transitional. - -It must be kept in view that many of the above churches of the second -pointed period were subjected to damage by fire, and having in -consequence to undergo repairs at a later date, exhibit signs of a -mixture of styles. Thus, Melrose, Dryburgh, and St. Giles’, Edinburgh, -were destroyed by Richard II. during his expedition in 1385, and -consequently show in the subsequent restorations some work of a rather -late character, mingled with the earlier decorated features. This -mingling of the work of different dates no doubt renders somewhat -difficult the elimination of the features due to the various epochs, and -has probably contributed to the erroneous view above referred to--viz., -that all Scottish architecture after 1300 belongs to the same style, and -should be classed as “second pointed.” - -With regard to the whole of the later architecture of Scotland, however, -whether we consider the middle pointed or the third pointed periods, we -think there can be no doubt but that it is all the work of native -architects. Had the design owed its origin to either English or French -architects, it would have more closely resembled the design of the -perpendicular in England or Flamboyant in France. But being entirely -different from either of these styles, although partaking to some extent -of the features of both, and being also much later in date than the -corresponding styles of these countries, the only conclusion which can -be drawn is, that the architecture of the middle pointed and third -pointed periods in this country was wrought out by native hands. Old -forms were long adhered to and new features were slowly adopted, and -when adopted were not followed entirely or exactly in accordance with -the original model, but with certain distinct modifications in details. - -The mouldings are generally rather massive and heavy. The buttresses (as -at Melrose) strongly resemble English middle pointed work. The pier and -arch mouldings are not quite so light and well marked as in England, and -the tracery of the windows, although geometric, is not always so elegant -as in the South. - -Good chapterhouses and sacristies of this period still exist at Glasgow, -Crosraguel, Pluscardine, and elsewhere, which are square, and have a -central pillar supporting groined vaulting. The very elegant -chapterhouse of Elgin Cathedral is octagonal, and beautifully vaulted -with a central pillar. - - -THIRD OR LATE POINTED STYLE. - -In the latter half of the fourteenth century, Gothic art, both in France -and England, again showed symptoms of a change of character. In France -the architects seemed to have exhausted their powers of development as -regards constructional elements, and were now occupied with the -elaboration of details. The earlier geometric tracery now assumed a very -flowing character, which, from the flame-like shapes of the bars of the -stone work, was called “Flamboyant.” In England, on the other hand, the -tracery assumed a rigid form, and from the mullions of the windows being -carried up in straight lines from the sill to the arch, the style -received the name of “perpendicular.” (Fig. 25.) In many respects, -connected with ornament and decoration, the styles of the two countries -resembled each other, but in one respect they differed widely. In France -the simple intersecting pointed vault was never departed from, but in -England the development of the vaulting into new forms made great -progress at this period. It has been mentioned that in their “decorated” -work the English had begun, in the thirteenth century, to introduce -“liernes” or intermediate ribs into the vaults. This process still -continued and advanced till the vaulting surface became covered with -ribs. (Fig. 26.) The ribs were latterly used as ornamental features, -spread over the surface of the vault, which again became the supporting -arched surface, as it was before the introduction of Gothic bearing ribs -in the twelfth century. A favourite form of this kind of vaulting is -known from its appearance as fan vaulting. In working out this kind of -vaulting, it was found desirable to bring all the ribs to the same level -at the apex, and in order to accomplish this it was found convenient to -use arches of double curvature, or four centred arches, a depressed -form which is characteristic of perpendicular work. - -[Illustration: FIG. 25.--York Cathedral. View of the East End. (From -Britton’s _Cathedrals_.)] - -From this peculiarity there followed many changes in style almost -unknown abroad. The use of the depressed arch in the vault soon led to -its adoption in the clerestory windows placed under the vault, and from -these it spread to the other windows, and ultimately to all the arches -of the building. From these features a perpendicular structure is at -once recognisable. The panelling of the vaults led, in sympathy, to -panelling in the wall surfaces, in the buttresses, and everywhere. A -linear system of ornamentation was thus produced, which was developed to -an extreme degree--the mouldings were thinned off till they became mere -strings, with wide shallow hollows between, and all interruption to the -stringy or liney effect thus produced was objected to. Thus the caps of -shafts were almost abolished, and the thin arch mouldings carried down -the piers without interruption from the arch to the base. The piers were -divided up with large shallow hollows or splays, and the subordination -of mouldings was lost. When caps were used they were generally small and -octagonal in shape, and stood meaningless amidst a cluster of mouldings. -Doorways were less deeply recessed than formerly, and the four-centred -arch was usually enclosed in a square moulding, the spandrils between -the square head and the arch being filled with tracery or sculpture, -often of a heraldic nature. - -In France the two-centred arch was adhered to, and traceried windows -were frequently introduced over doorways. Some of the carving, both at -home and in France, is executed with great delicacy and spirit, but much -of the foliage is of a very conventional form peculiar to the period. In -running ornaments the stems frequently become more important than the -leaves, thus carrying out the thin linear character of the style. - -The English architects always showed a fondness for wooden roofs, and at -this the latest period of Gothic these open timber constructions became -very common. In France, on the contrary, vaulted roofs were preferred -till the revival of classic art. - - -THIRD OR LATE POINTED STYLE IN SCOTLAND. - -During the latter part of the fifteenth and in the sixteenth centuries -the erection of cathedrals and monasteries in Scotland was almost -entirely superseded by collegiate churches. These structures are -generally designed on a cruciform plan, with a central tower over the -crossing. They have usually a porch at the south-west and a sacristy at -the north-east angle, and occasionally one or more chantry chapels -attached. Except in the larger examples of collegiate churches, such as -St. Giles’ and Trinity College, Edinburgh, aisles are rarely introduced, -and groined vaulting, although used in the above structures, is also -uncommon. The churches are generally covered with pointed barrel vaults, -for the most part plain, but sometimes ornamented with ribs applied to -the barrel surface. The latter style of decoration is sometimes employed -in the vaulting over the - -[Illustration: FIG. 26.--Winchester Cathedral. West End of the Nave. -(From Britton’s _Chronological History of English Architecture_.)] - -presbytery, so as to distinguish it by its richness. This class of -vaulting carries out in its simplest elements the principle adopted at -this period in England of making the vaulting surface more important -than the ribs, and using the latter as ornaments upon the surface of the -vault. - -The exterior of the churches is generally marked by rather heavy -buttresses, crowned with small and debased-looking pinnacles. The -buttresses have often a great many set-offs. In other examples -buttresses are entirely omitted. The doorways vary considerably. The -semi-circular arch, which is sometimes preserved in the earlier styles, -is now of very frequent use, not only in doorways, but also in pier -arcades and clerestories (as at Paisley and Dunkeld). Elliptic arches -and three-sided door heads are also used. - -At this period we find indications of English influence in a few -perpendicular traceries, as at Melrose Abbey, and of French influence in -some Flamboyant forms, and in the three or five sided apse which -frequently forms the eastern termination of the churches. Western and -central towers are usual features, generally rather squat in form, and -sometimes surmounted with a short spire, having numerous small lucarnes -and pinnacles. Four of these towers were once finished with spires of -open work resembling a crown, but the number is now reduced to -two--viz., St. Giles’, Edinburgh, and King’s College, Old Aberdeen. - -The piers are often of a plain circular form, and the arches have -frequently plain chamfers instead of mouldings. The caps of piers are -peculiar and heavy, the abacus consisting of a deep series of mouldings. -Grotesque ornaments and large flowers are common, and frequently of -rather coarse design; but in some instances, as in the cloisters of -Melrose, the ornaments are beautifully sculptured. - -A revival of early enrichments, such as the dog-tooth or nail-head, is a -curious characteristic of this period, as it was also in the case of the -late domestic architecture. Other early features are also revived, such -as detached shafts, with well-marked caps and bases of early form. This -is specially observable at Iona and in Argyleshire and the Western -Islands, where, as already mentioned, a peculiar style prevailed. - -In course of time, as pointed out elsewhere,[60] the ecclesiastical -elements were invaded by the features of domestic architecture, and a -mixed, but picturesque, style was developed which had more of a Scottish -than a Gothic aspect. - -Many examples of Scottish structures of the third period will be -illustrated. The buildings, though comparatively small, are numerous and -interesting, as they illustrate a specially Scottish branch of Gothic -architecture. They consist largely of collegiate edifices, and amongst -them is the well-known collegiate church of Roslyn. - -A number of churches showing the mixture of domestic and ecclesiastical -features which prevailed in the latter half of the sixteenth and -seventeenth century have already been illustrated, as above indicated. - -That series of churches will be continued so as to exhaust the subject. - -The contrast they present with the churches of the earlier centuries is -very striking, and affords much food for reflection. - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: Egilsay Church. From South-West.] - - - - -THE CELTIC MONASTIC AND ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES IN SCOTLAND, - -CHIEFLY AS ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIBED IN THE WORKS OF THE LATE T. S. -MUIR. - - -It has been shown in the Introduction that Christianity was brought to -Scotland in the sixth century by the Celtic missionaries from Ireland, -and that, after it had endured for seven centuries, the monastic Church -of the Columbans, was superseded by the Roman ecclesiastical system. -Each of these phases of Christianity possessed its own form of -architecture--the one derived from the features peculiar to the Celtic -style of building, and the other from the development of the Romanesque -architecture general throughout Europe. The latter began to take effect -in Scotland about the beginning of the twelfth century, while the -former, which had existed from a very early date, continued to prevail -in certain parts of the country long after that period. - -We shall first consider the structures of the oldest or Celtic style. -The earliest examples of ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland are, -doubtless, the rude structures built with uncemented stones, which still -survive in some of the remote islands off the coast, chiefly in the -Western seas. - -These islands, as well as the mainland of Scotland, have been visited -again and again by the late Mr. T. S. Muir, who has embodied the results -of his peregrinations in his volume on the _Characteristics of Old -Church Architecture in Scotland_ (1861), and in his _Ecclesiological -Notes on some of the Islands of Scotland_ (1885)--the latter containing -a _resumé_ of a number of charming little volumes produced by Mr. Muir -at different times. Mr. Muir’s account of his repeated visits to the -outlying islands is very quaint and entertaining, and shows that he has -been inspired with an enthusiasm for ecclesiology very rarely equalled. -He has certainly been the discoverer of many extremely interesting -structures, which serve to show the connection between the early -Christianity of Ireland and Scotland and the gradual development in this -country of a style of ecclesiastical architecture similar to that of the -parent isle. - -The condition and features of the numerous cells and churches which Mr. -Muir visited many years ago, when they were in a more perfect state than -they now are, have been so fully described and illustrated by him that -it would appear to be a work of supererogation to follow his footsteps -and investigate them over again. We have, therefore, adopted his -descriptions and illustrations, and have prepared an abstract of the -numerous materials scattered throughout his works, arranged, as far as -possible, in accordance with the historical sequence of the types of the -buildings, and described in Mr. Muir’s own words. - -Dr. Joseph Anderson has pointed out, in his _Scotland in Early Christian -Times_, that the early churches of Scotland, like those of Ireland, -consisted of a single oblong chamber, with one door and one window, and -that these structures were frequently found associated with beehive huts -and surrounded by a cashel or rampart.[61] - -We have in Scotland several examples of similar churches associated with -beehive huts, and sometimes surrounded by a wall. Examples also occur of -groups of chapels resembling the well-known similar groups in Ireland. - -The following are descriptions of these structures, chiefly extracted -from Mr. Muir’s works. - - - - -I. SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES, ASSOCIATED WITH BEEHIVE CELLS AND CHURCHES IN -GROUPS. - - -EILEAN NAOMH, ARGYLESHIRE. - -An extremely interesting example of the remains of an early monastic -establishment on the Irish model is that on Eilean Naomh, one of the - -[Illustration: FIG. 27. FIG. 28. - -Eilean Naomh. Beehive Hut.] - -Garvelloch Islands, which lie about three miles west of Lunga, off the -coast of Argyleshire. About the middle of the island, and on the -south-east side, stand the ruins of several structures. “One of the -largest and most entire is obviously a church internally 21 feet 7 -inches in length, constructed, like all the other buildings, of rude -masonry, in which no lime or cement of any kind has been used. Excepting -the gables, which are wanting, the walls are perfect, but present -nothing in the way of detail more important than a square-headed doorway -of slightly tapering form in the west end, and a small square-headed -window splayed on both sides, but mostly on the interior, in the east -end, flanked on its south by a projecting shelf of slate, which seems to -have been an altar.”[62] The enclosures of what were probably the garden -and the burying-ground are visible south of the church. - -[Illustration: FIG. 29.--Eilean Naomh. - -Twin Beehive Huts.] - -Mr. Muir then describes “another building, an underground cell of -irregular oval shape (Fig. 27), measuring 5 feet 4 inches by 4 feet 5 -inches, with a depth of rather more than 4 feet. The roof is formed -simply by a few heavy slabs laid across the walls on a level with the -ground outside, and the entrance is by a slanting aperture (Fig. 28), -just where the roof and the walls unite. Two other buildings (Fig. 29), -forming a part of this curious group, remain to be described. These are -dome-shaped and joined together; the larger one internally 14 feet in -diameter, the other about a foot less. The two buildings communicate -with each other by means of a square-shaped doorway through the point of -contact, and the larger one with the outside by another doorway of the -like kind facing the south-west; but with the exception of a square -aperture at the ground, more like a gutter hole than a door, there is no -external opening in the smaller building.”[63] The dome of the smaller -structure is complete, but that of the larger is ruined. (Fig. 30.) - -The island of Naomh was often visited by Columba, and the establishment -of which the above fragments are the remains is believed to have been -that originally founded by St. Brendan, and afterwards refounded by -Columba. Near the shore St. Columba’s well still survives. - -One cannot fail to recognise in the above description a striking -resemblance to the early monastic establishments of Ireland. We here -find the same dry-built quadrilateral church, with door having sloping -jambs, and the same beehive huts with domed roofs.[64] - -[Illustration: FIG. 30.--Beehive Huts on Eilean Naomh. (From _Scotland -in Early Christian Times_.)] - - -SKEABOST, SKYE. - -“In an islet in the river Snizort at this place there is an open -burying-ground - -[Illustration: FIG. 31.--Skeabost, Skye. East Elevation.] - -containing a group of five or six chapels, the shell of two pretty -entire, the others reduced nearly to the ground. Of the former, the one -least perfect (Fig. 31) is a featureless building, externally 82 feet in -length; the other--probably that mentioned in the _Originales -Parochiales_ as dedicated to St. Columba--is externally 21 feet in -length, and has a flat-headed window (Fig. 32), 2 feet in height and 6 -inches wide, in the east end, the west end blank. In - -[Illustration: FIG. 32.--Window, St. Columba, Skeabost, Skye.] - -the larger building there is a basin of a baptismal font, square, with -rounded corners.”[65] - -“On making the shore one is immediately struck with the intensely -ecclesiastical character of the spot. From end to end the islet is -covered with the remains of chapels.”[66] - -Here we find a group of chapels which were formerly surrounded by a -marsh, while fragments of an enclosing wall or rampart can also be -traced. - - -MUGSTOT, SKYE. - -“Mugstot, properly Monkstead, stands on a slightly elevated spot -surrounded by a swampy meadow, formerly the bed of a lake, some two or -three miles from Uig, in the direction of Kilmuir Kirk. Like Skeabost, -it exhibits a group of greatly ruinated buildings, three in number, -standing in a line from north to south. The southernmost building, which -is 22 feet long inside, and pointed east and west, is the least -dilapidated, and evidently the Chapel of St. Columba mentioned by -Martin. The intermediate ruins are little more than the foundations of -an oblong building, 49 feet in length, and standing north and south.” -Then follows a description of what has apparently been a circular -cashel. “The other building is of oval form, measuring internally about -62 feet east and west, and 42 feet north and south, the walls composed -of irregularly-shaped stones, mostly of large size, uncemented, but -fitly put together. This building is very much broken down, but least -dilapidated on the east, where it is still some 7 or 8 feet high. Within -the area are observable the foundations of walls crossing each other at -right angles, the spaces between having probably been vaulted -cells.”[67] - - -HOWMORE, SOUTH UIST. - -At Mr. Muir’s first visit there were here remains of a group of five -chapels (Fig. 33) all close together, but on his second visit he found -one removed. “The missing one was a very characteristic building, the -smallest of the group, with a very narrow rectangular window and a short -_sloping_ doorway in the east end. Externally it measured only 17½ feet -in length. - -[Illustration: FIG. 33.--Hoghmore, South Uist.] - -Of those still remaining, the largest has been about 60 feet in length. -Scarcely anything of it is standing more than the east wall, a long -cruciform couplet [widely splayed inside and looking like first -pointed],[88] in which shows that the building had been the finest and -largest of the lot. The next largest is internally rather more than 54 -feet in length. Of it, also, the only remains is the east wall [pierced -with a narrow flat-headed window (Fig. 34), 2 feet long and 6 inches -wide, extremely rude].[68] The two other chapels are each about 20 feet -in length, not so much reduced, but with no features deserving notice. -[In the east gable there is a flat-headed window of very small size, and -on the south side there is one much of the same kind; on the north side -are remains of a doorway--the west end blank.][69] In two of the chapels -the altar is still extant, and there are also fine memorial slabs.”[70] - -“Of the chapels, the largest is externally 20 feet in length,”[71] with -small flat-headed windows--west end blank. Of the two other chapels, the -largest is 19 feet 4 inches in length, with flat-topped window. The -other (now removed), 17 feet 7 inches long externally, by 11 feet 6 -inches wide; walls rudely built. The doorway, _with inclining jambs and -flat head_, was in the east end; above, in gable, a flat-headed window, -14 inches long by 3 inches wide. - -[Illustration: FIG. 34.--Howmore. East Window.] - - -KILBAR, BARRA. - -In a burying-ground, “three dilapidated chapels, resembling very much -those at Howmore. The largest (Fig. 35) (supposed to be that of St. -Barr), (1) is externally 42 feet in length; the end walls nearly away, -the north and south walls nearly entire. The north side has a rude -triangular-headed doorway (Fig. 36) enclosed in a semi-circular arch, -and a triangular-headed window on its east. In the south wall there are -three windows of the same form--two of them together near its east end, -and one near the west end. Against the east end the altar remains almost -entire. The next largest chapel (2) is externally 30 feet in length; it -is divided by a dead wall into two unequal apartments, each having a -flat-headed doorway on the south. The east end contains a flat-headed -window 16 inches in length by 3½ inches wide, and there are windows of -like kind in the side walls, the west one blank. Of the third and -smallest chapel (4), externally 18 feet 3 inches in length, very little -is left. At my first visit (July 1855) both ends were entire, the east -one containing a small flat-topped window, the west one blank; now (July -1866) the only detail is a narrow window at the eastern extremity of the -north wall, the head round, and formed of one stone.”[72] - -Another chapel at a little distance has been removed. - -[Illustration: FIG. 35.--Kilbar, Barra.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 36.--Kilbar, St. Mary.] - - - - -II. HERMITS’ CELLS. - - -The above descriptions apply to groups of chapels similar to those in -Ireland. We shall now consider Mr. Muir’s descriptions of the rude -hermitages which he discovered on some of the remotest rocks round the -coast. - - -THE CHAPEL OF ST. RONAN, NORTH RONA. - -The small solitary island of Rona lies about thirty-eight miles -north-eastwards from the Butt of Lewis, and about the same distance from -Cape Wrath. It is about one mile long and the same in width. Such an -island, so far from land, formed a meet spot for the dwelling of an -early Anchorite, and here is still preserved the Chapel of St. Ronan. -The island was twice visited by Mr. Muir, who thus describes the -chapel:-- - -“Of this rude and diminutive building [the eastern chamber] not much can -be said. On the outside it is in most part a rounded heap of loose -stones, roofed over with turf. Within you find it a roughly-built cell -(Fig. 37), 9 feet 3 inches in height, and at the floor 11 feet 6 inches -long and 7 feet 6 inches wide. The end walls lean inwardly a little, the -side ones so greatly that when they meet the flat slab-formed roof they -are scarcely 2 feet apart. (Fig. 38.) Beyond the singularity of its -shape, there is - -[Illustration: FIG. 37.--Teampull Rona.] - -nothing remarkable in the building, its only minute features being a -square doorway in the west end, so low that you have to creep through it -on your elbows and knees; a flat-headed window without splay on either -side, 19 inches long and 8 inches wide, set over the doorway (see Fig. -38); another window of like form and length, but an inch or two wider, -near the east end of the south wall; and the altar stone, 3 feet in -length, lying close to the east end. - -“Attached as a nave to the west end of the cell, and externally -co-extensive with it in breadth, are the remains of another chapel, -internally - -[Illustration: FIG. 38.--Teampull Rona. Interior West End Elevation.] - -14 feet 8 inches in length, and 8 feet 3 inches in width. Except the -north one, which is considerably broken down, all the elevations are -nearly entire, the west one retaining a part of the gable. A rude -flat-headed doorway, 3 feet 5 inches in height and 2 feet 3 inches wide, -in the south wall, and a small window of the same shape eastward of it, -are the only details. - -“At what time either of these buildings was put up it is impossible to -say. Both are alike rude in their masonry, and between them there is -scarcely a difference in the character of their few inartistic details; -but be the age of the larger one what it may, the cell, which may be -termed the chancel of the structure at large, is certainly by many -hundred years the older erection, and in all probability the work of the -eighth or ninth century.”[73] - -We have here an example of an ancient oratory enlarged by the addition -of a _nave_ into a church with nave and chancel. - - -TEAMPULL SULA SGEIR. - -On a narrow and lofty rock, not more than one-third of a mile in - -[Illustration: FIG. 39.--Teampull Sula Sgeir.] - -length, situated ten or twelve miles to the south-west of North Rona and -about forty miles from the Butt of Lewis, there exists “a rude chapel, -with a stone roof, called Tigh Beannaichte (blessed house), internally -14 feet in length.” - -“In a comparatively level spot, closely surrounded by rocks, there is a -low, rough, oval-shaped chapel (Fig. 39), internally measuring no more -than 14 feet in length [8 feet wide at the middle, and 6 feet 4 inches -at the ends],[74] the extreme antiquity of which there seems no reason -to question. On the outside (Fig. 40) the roof of this primitive cell is -of curved form, but inside the rude vaulting, which may be said to -commence almost from the ground, finishes somewhat short of the summit -in so many heavy slabs laid horizontally across. Externally the building -is a little dilapidated at both ends, and so is the roof; but within it -is quite perfect, and seemingly noways altered from its original state. -Entrance to it is by a low and very narrow flat-topped doorway, with -sloping jambs [3 feet 5 inches in - -[Illustration: FIG. 40.--Teampull Sula Sgeir.] - -height, 16 inches wide at top and 22 inches at bottom][74] in the south -wall. On its east is a small squared recess, and there is another recess -of the same kind in the west wall. The only window is a small one, of -squared form [2 feet 8 inches in length], in the east end, under which -is an altar, flanked by slabs, set on edge, and raised on a slightly -elevated dais, as is shown on the annexed plan.”[75] - - -FLANNAIN ISLES, OR SEVEN HUNTERS. - - -SEVERAL WILD UNAPPROACHABLE ISLANDS LYING TO THE WESTWARDS OF LEWIS. - -Eilean Mòr, the largest of the group (about one-third of a mile in -extent), has precipitous sides and a flat grassy plain on the top, which -slopes to the south-west. - -[Illustration: FIG. 41.--Teampull Beannachadh. West End.] - -“The chapel of St. Flann, or Teampull Beannachadh (blessing) as it is -commonly called ... stands nakedly about the middle of the slope, -unenclosed and with no indications of having ever been surrounded by a -burial-ground. (Figs. 41, 42.) It is a very primitive looking thing, -composed of rough stones joggled compactly together without lime. The -form is a squared oblong, but not strictly regular, the external lengths -of the north and south walls being respectively 11 feet 11 inches and 12 -feet 2 inches, the east and west walls, 10 feet 3 inches and 9 feet 2 -inches respectively; [within the dimensions are--length 7 feet 3 inches; -width, 4 feet 5 inches.][76] The walls vary in thickness from 2 feet 5 -inches to 2 feet 11 inches, taper a little, and are covered with a stone -roof internally flat, but following the obtusely pointed or cradle form -of the gables on the outside. Externally, - -[Illustration: FIG. 42.--Teampull Beannachadh. East End.] - -the total height of the cell is only 8 feet 6 inches; internally, 5 feet -9 inches. A narrow squared aperture, scarcely 3 feet in height [1 foot -10 inches in width],[77] in the west end, is at once doorway and window, -besides it there being no opening of any kind in the building.”[78] - - - - -III. CELTIC CHURCHES STANDING ALONE. - - -The number of single churches scattered over the islands and the -adjoining mainland has at one time been very large. Many of these are -now reduced to mere traces, but the ruins of a considerable number still -exist in tolerable preservation. - -We shall consider these in several sections, in accordance with their -different characteristics. The simplest type is first described, but the -age of the structures is not thereby indicated. - -1. Churches built in the simple Celtic style of one oblong chamber. A -few of these structures are evidently very ancient, the walls having -been built without cement, or having doors with inclined jambs. These -will be first described. - -2. They will be followed by a long list of churches on the same general -plan, but in which some modifications of the original arrangement of one -door and one window are introduced. The number of windows is often -increased; but they are not arranged on a uniform plan, being generally -distributed so as to suit the locality. The windows were no doubt open -and unglazed, and seem to have been placed so as to be well sheltered, -and as little exposed to the prevailing wind as possible. In some cases -there is no window even in the east gable, and the west and north walls -are frequently blank. In most examples the windows and doors are narrow -and flat-headed, but round-headed doors and windows are also -occasionally used, showing the Norman influence. These structures all -belong more or less to the primitive type of Celtic churches, but their -primitive features cannot be relied on as fixing their date. Some may be -very early, while others may be later even than the pointed buildings to -be afterwards described. The primitive type and primitive features, such -as narrow flat-headed windows and doors, undoubtedly continued in use -long after more advanced forms had been introduced. - -3. A more reliable mark of the order of succession of these early -churches is the existence of an architecturally distinguished chancel. -At what point in the development of the architecture this feature was -introduced it is impossible to say; but from the extremely rude nature -of the other elements in such examples as that at Lybster in Caithness -(described below), it must clearly have been at an early period. We -there find the plan of nave and chancel combined with such primitive -features as a low west doorway, with inclining jambs and flat lintel, -and the opening to the chancel from the nave shaped exactly like the -west doorway. - -4. Examples are also found of the addition of a chancel or nave to an -older simple oblong church, thus showing that the chanceled church was a -later form of plan than the primitive single-chambered church. The -examples of these ancient churches with added chancel or nave will be -first given, and then the churches built on the plan of nave and -chancel.[79] - -5. In many instances the use of the pointed arch and ornaments of Gothic -character is quite distinct. These churches are evidently of a date -between the thirteenth and sixteenth centuries. Although in other parts -of the country first pointed work would be assigned to the thirteenth -century, that rule does not apply in the Western Highlands and Islands, -where first pointed features are often continued till much later times, -and where the later styles of Gothic are scarcely represented. - - -(_A_) CHURCHES DRY-BUILT AND CHURCHES WITH SLOPING JAMBS. - -TIGH BEANNACHADH, LEWIS. - -Numerous ruins and fragments of chapels are found on the west coast of -Lewis. Among these, near Gallowhead, the great west headland of the -island, stands (Fig. 43) Tigh Beannachadh (blessing house), “a not - -[Illustration: FIG. 43.--Tigh Beannachadh, Gallowhead.] - -greatly dilapidated chapel [a simple oblong], internally 18 feet 2 -inches in length [by 10 feet 4 inches], with a broken east window, -having an altar beside it and a doorway, and a niche in each of the side -walls; the south doorway entire and flat-headed, the masonry very rude -and _without lime_.” “It would seem to be a very old building.”[80] - - -DUN OTHAIL, LEWIS. - -On a narrow “shelf, in the face of a high precipice, under Dun Othail, -about ten miles south of the Butt, is found the ground work of a chapel, -internally 17 feet long and 11 feet 3 inches wide, with remains of the -south doorway. The walls are 4 feet thick, and there is no _cement -used_.”[81] - - -CARINISH, NORTH UIST. - -At the south end of the island, Teampull-na-Trianaide (Trinity Church) -consists of two not greatly dilapidated buildings of unequal size, the -larger and more ruinated one internally 62 feet in length. The only -detail, - -[Illustration: FIG. 44.] - -a broken round-headed doorway near west end of north wall. Connected -with it on that side by a low semi-circular vaulted passage (Fig. 44), -lighted by a small flat-headed window on each side, is the other -chapel, 23 feet in length. This building is probably of considerable -age. Windows are rude, flat-headed, and 3 feet long.[82] See Note by -Captain Thomas.[83] - - -(_B_) SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES WITH MODIFIED FEATURES. - -1. CARA, OFF GIGHA, KINTYRE. - -A chapel, 29 feet long externally; masonry rude, but with a good deal of -character. East and west ends nearly entire. Doorway about - -[Illustration: FIG. 45.] - -middle of north side. Window in north wall 3 feet 4 inches long and -flat-headed. (Fig. 45.) No opening in east end.[84] - - -2. EILEAN MUNDE, LOCHLEVEN. - -An island near the mouth of Glencoe, containing ruins of a church -internally 50 feet long, with two flat-headed windows in south side and -one in north side. East end blank.[85] - - -3. CHURCH OF HOLY CROSS, SOUTH GALSTON, LEWIS. - -Church, 18 feet 7 inches long by 12 feet wide. Windows flat-headed, one -in east end and one in east end of both side walls; west end blank. -Doorway, broken, is south-west.[86] - - -4. TEAMPULL PHEADAIR, LEWIS. - -Remains, 63 feet long externally. In east end a flat-headed window 3 -feet 5 inches high and 6 inches wide; in south wall five windows of much -larger size, and apparently of comparatively modern date. North side and -west end blank.[87] - - -5. ST. AULA, GRESS, LEWIS. - -Church, 18 feet 10 inches long by 14 feet wide, slightly dilapidated. -One window narrow and flat-headed in west end, and in south wall -flat-headed door and window. Over door a stone with date 1685, in which -year the building probably underwent repairs.[88] - - -6. TOEHEAD, HARRIS. - -Church, internally 21 feet by 10 feet 2 inches. Windows, one in east -end, one in west gable, one in south wall, and one, together with -doorway, in north wall, are mere flat-headed slits, the east one 8 -inches wide. Under east window stone altar, still entire.[89] - - -7. NUNTOWN, BENBECULA. - -A small chapel, externally 25 feet by 16 feet, within enclosed -burying-ground, almost perfect shell, windows small, narrow, and flat in -head, two in each side and one in east end; the latter 19 inches high -and 5 inches wide. Doorway, a rude flat-headed aperture, surmounted by a -square niche, is in west end.[90] - - -8. PABBA, SOUND OF HARRIS. - -Ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel, externally 40 feet 9 inches in length and 19 -feet 9 inches wide. Doorway flat-headed, 2 feet 2 inches wide, in west -end. Above it, narrow flat-headed window, and a similar window near east -end of both side walls.[91] - - -9. KILMUIR, SKYE. - -Church of “considerable age,” much altered. Doorway and windows small, -flat-headed, and deeply recessed inside. Arched recesses in side walls -for tombs.[92] - - -10. TRUMPAN, SKYE. - -Old chapel, 51 feet long externally. In east end one short narrow window -and two in north wall, all flat-headed. Rudely arched doorway in north -elevation.[93] - - -_The following show signs of Norman influence._ - -11. ST. CARMAIG, KIELS, KNAPDALE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 46.--Kiels, Knapdale. Exterior East Elevation.] - -The church is a rudely constructed oblong, externally 42 feet in length -by 21 feet in width, roofless. Windows--one close to east end of north - -[Illustration: FIG. 47.--Keils, Knapdale. Interior East Elevation.] - -wall, two in south, and one with round arch in middle of east elevation. -(Figs. 46, 47.) West wall blank. Windows flat except east one.[94] - - -12. KILMORY, KNAPDALE. - -Church, rudely constructed oblong, internally 38 feet in length by 17 -feet in width. Walls well preserved. Doorway near west end of south -wall. Four windows; one near east end of side walls, and two together in -east elevation. Side windows small rectangular apertures; east one -slightly moulded and semi-circular top.[95] (Figs. 48, 49.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 48.--Kilmory, Knapdale. Exterior East End -Elevation.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 49.--Kilmory, Knapdale. Interior East End -Elevation.] - - -13. TIREE (ITHICA TERRA OF ADAMNAN). - -KIRKAPOLL.--A very rudely-constructed chapel, internally 36 feet 9 -inches long. In west end a plain round doorway (Fig. 50), 6 feet high, - -[Illustration: FIG. 50.--Kirkapoll, Tiree. Doorway.] - -rudely arched with slates, and having a small Latin cross on its south -side. In south wall a round-headed door and two round-headed - -[Illustration: FIG. 51.--Kirkapoll, Tiree. Window.] - -windows, with great splay internally (Fig. 51); the north elevation -blank.[96] - -On a neighbouring hillock there is another chapel, internally 23 feet 5 -inches long, with walls and gables entire. The windows are round-headed, -one in north wall and one in south, and doorway in south wall; east and -west walls blank. - -KILCHENICH, TIREE.--Ruined chapel, 33 feet 5 inches long. Only -details--small round-headed doorway in west end.[97] - - -(_C_) CHURCHES WITH A CHANCEL OR NAVE ADDED TO AN OLDER STRUCTURE. - - -1. ST. COLUMBA, BALIVANICH, BENBECULA. - -Occupying a swampy spot, formerly the bed of a lake, are remains of a -chapel probably belonging to the monks of Iona. Externally 56 feet in -length and 19 feet in width. (Fig. 52.) All the windows are flat-topped -and narrow; one in east end, three in south wall, and one in north wall. -East wall only is perfect.[98] - -[Illustration: FIG. 52.--St. Columba, Balivanich. Plan.] - -Was built in a remote age. The mortar is washed out of the joints. The -only door is at north end, with inclined jambs, and so low as to require -stooping position on entrance; 4 feet 7 inches high; covered with -undressed lintel. Little rectangular windows like portholes. Chancel 14 -feet long by 15 feet broad; nave 33½ feet long and 14¼ feet broad. East -wall 5 feet thick; east window 2¾ feet by 6 inches wide, greatly splayed -at sides inside. Chancel walls--2 feet 2 inches thick--do not bond into -nave. Nave window in north wall 14 inches by 7 inches. South wall -windows--east one 10 inches square, the other 14 inches by 8 inches. -Chancel probably added by Lady Amy end of fourteenth century.[99] - - -2. EILEAN MOR. - -A small island lying off the Knapdale coast. “A little way up from the -landing-place stands the half-roofless, though in other respects -scarcely at all ruinated, shell of ‘Kilvicoharmaig, the Mother Church of -Knapdale,’ surrounded by an open and nearly obliterated burying-ground. -Its external plan (Fig. 53) is a simple oblong, measuring 37 feet 5 -inches in length and 20 feet in width. Internally the building is -divided into chancel and nave, the division being a gabled wall open by -a semi-circular arch composed of long thin slates. An apartment, which -was probably a comparatively modern contrivance, appears to have gone -over the nave, as there is a fireplace and chimney in the upper part of -the west wall, not bearing marks of antiquity. - -“The chancel is covered by a low waggon vault, between which and the -external roof there is a chamber lighted by a square window in the apex -of the west gable. In the east end of the chancel (Fig. 54) are two -small round-headed windows placed considerably apart, the north one, -like the window at the neighbouring Kiels, having its interior sill -underdrawn and levelled for an altar. - -[Illustration: FIG. 53.] - -“In the interior south wall is a large round-headed recess, containing -the tomb and headless effigy of an ecclesiastic, and in the wall -opposite are two smaller recesses of the same kind--the eastern one -having a window behind and a square lychnoscopic-looking aperture on one -side near the ground. - -“The chancel evidently belongs to an early period, and in style mostly -resembles Norman, though some alterations (designed, there can be no -doubt, to procure more shelter) have somewhat modified the pristine -character of its detail. Originally the entrance was by a round doorway -in the north side of the nave; but this has been built up, and another -one, square and smaller, opened through the wall opposite. The window -lights have all been reduced by the inserting of a slate pierced with a -short and narrow lancet--that on the south, in the east end, plain - -[Illustration: FIG. 54.--Church of St. Carmaig, Eilean Mor. Exterior -Elevation of East End.] - -pointed, the other one trefoiled. But the most important alteration is -in the chancel arch (Fig. 55), which has been lessened by blocking to a -small flat-topped doorway with a square hole right through the wall on -each side of it; over each of these holes, within the chancel, is an -ambry of the usual square form.” - -In a recess among the rocks are remains of a rectangular building, -measuring internally 11 feet 3 inches by 10 feet 10 inches--the walls -rudely built without cement, and more than 4 feet in thickness. This is -the Chapel of St. Carmaig, “made by his own hands” soon after he came to -the place for retirement and devotion. The entrance to the building - -[Illustration: FIG. 55.--Exterior West Elevation of Chancel.] - -is a narrow flat-headed doorway of primitive character in the east wall. -This structure communicates with a natural cave, and probably existed as -a religious cell long before the neighbouring Kilvicoharmaig was -erected.[100] - - -3. ST. COLUMBA’S, EY., LEWIS. - -A long narrow building of two compartments, divided by a thick wall, -containing arched passage. Eastern compartment internally 62 feet in -length by 17 feet in width; western one 23 feet by 16 feet 3 inches. -Different parts erected at different times from character of masonry. In -eastern or larger compartment, windows are mere flat-headed slits, flush -outside, widely splayed inside; east one 4 feet 4 inches by 7½ inches; -south one 3 feet 8 inches and only 3 inches wide. In western division -masonry less primitive looking; resembles Norman. Windows--one in west -end, one in north side, and one, together with door, in south side; all -round-headed, flush outside, and widely splayed inside.[101] - - -4. ST. COLUMBA, KIELS, KINTYRE. - -Long narrow building, with small round-headed windows and doorway in -side walls only. - -Length outside 75 feet 3 inches; width only 18 feet 10 inches; unbonded -juncture 29 feet from east end, shows that chancel has been extended to -west; masonry of usual rude description; stones of added part are -squared and like Norman work. Plain round-headed doorway on south-west, -and two or three small round-headed single windows.[102] - - -5. KILCHOUSLAN, NEAR CAMPBELTOWN, KINTYRE. - -Chapel, rather more than 58 feet in length, nearly entire; all apertures - -[Illustration: FIG. 56.--Kilchouslan. Plan.] - -square-headed. North wall blank; seems to have been lengthened by about -20 feet; fissure at junction similar to that at Kiels.[103] - -[We give Plan and View (Figs. 56, 57) of this church, originally 36 feet -7 inches long by 17 feet wide internally. The and windows are -square-headed and built with freestone, now much decayed; the remainder -of the - -[Illustration: FIG. 57.--Kilchouslan. View from South-West.] - -walls is built with whinstone. The added chancel is marked by the -freestone corners of the east end of the original church, which still -exist. The chancel measures 19 feet in length by 17 feet in width. The -east wall is now demolished.] - - -6. KILCHENZIE, NEAR CAMPBELTOWN, KINTYRE. - -[We also give Plan and View of this structure (Figs. 58, 59). A simple -oblong church, 40 - -[Illustration: FIG. 58.--Kilchenzie. Plan.] - -feet 11 inches long by 17 feet 3 inches wide internally, with one -round-headed window, 6 inches wide, cut out of a single stone in south -wall. A chancel, 27 feet 4 inches long by 17 feet 3 inches wide, has -been added, of which the junction is quite apparent. One small pointed -window in east end of chancel.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 59.--Kilchenzie. View from South-East.] - - - - -IV. CHURCHES BUILT WITH CHANCEL AND NAVE. - - -1. ST. MARY’S, LYBSTER, CAITHNESS. - -A rudely constructed building (Fig. 60) consisting of chancel and nave. -Flat-headed doorway, 3 feet 5 inches high, with inclining jambs, in -west end (Fig. 61), and possibly another door in south wall. No - -[Illustration: FIG. 60.--St. Mary’s, Lybster. Plan.] - -windows except, perhaps, one high up in east gable. Chancel entrance -same as west doorway.[104] - -[Illustration: FIG. 61.--St. Mary’s, Lybster. View of Doorway in West -End.] - - -2. CHURCH OF JOHN THE BAPTIST, SOUTH BRAGAIR, LEWIS. - -Not much wasted; consisting of chancel and nave; respectively 12 feet 8 -inches and 19 feet 10 inches long inside, with flat-headed windows--one -east and one south in chancel, and one in west end of nave. Chancel arch -and south-west doorway broken; former seems to have been pointed.[105] - - -3. ST. MICHAEL’S, BORVE, BARRA. - -Consists of nave and chancel; respectively 23 feet and 7 feet 10 inches -in length inside. Only ground plan left.[106] - -(This and St. John’s, Bragair, the only churches in Lewis with chancel -and nave constructively separated.) - - -(_D_) CHURCHES WITH POINTED OR LATE FEATURES. - - -1. ST. CATAN’S, GIGHA, OFF KINTYRE. - -Old church, oblong, 33 feet long and 15 feet 2 inches in width. One long -lanciform window in east end (Fig. 62); stone font.[107] - -[Illustration: FIG. 62.--St. Catan’s, Gigha. East End.] - -In Islay numerous traces of chapels are found, of which the following -are the best preserved; some have lancet windows, and the others, with -square or round heads, do not appear to be very old. - - -2. KILDALTON, ISLAY. - -Church, 60 feet long. East end contains two long lanciform windows, -recessed semi-circularly within--one in west gable and one in each side -wall. In south wall a canopied piscina and effigy of mailed figure.[108] - - -3. KILNAUGHTON, ISLAY. - -Church, internally 38 feet long; west end blank. Small narrow window in -east gable.[109] - - -4. KILNEAVE, ISLAY. - -Church, 30 feet long, and not very old. Two windows, short and wide--one -in east elevation and one in south wall. Arches semi-circular, of thin -stones.[110] (Fig. 63.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 63.--Kilneave, Islay.] - - -5. KILCHIERAN, ISLAY. - -East end and fragment of south wall of chapel. No window, but two -recesses in east wall inside, with ambry and projecting piscina.[111] - - -6. ST. NINIAN’S, SANDA. - -An island off the east coast of the Mull of Cantyre. The church is an -oblong, 32 feet 9 inches. (Fig. 64.) Walls pretty entire. Doorway - -[Illustration: FIG. 64.--St. Ninian’s, Sanda. Plan.] - -plain, chamfered, and flat-headed, at north-west. Windows small and -flat-headed. (Fig. 65.) Small circular piscina. Lying inside, bowl of -font.[112] - -[Illustration: FIG. 65.--St. Ninian’s, Sanda. South-East Window.] - - -7. ST. COLUMBA’S ISLE, LEWIS. - -At the mouth of Loch Erisort is St. Columba’s Chapel, externally 35 feet -6 inches in length and 18 feet 7 inches in width. East elevation nearly -entire; contains flat-headed window, 4 feet by 6 inches, and in west -gable smaller one same shape. South side contains a narrow lanciform -window, and broken doorway on left. North side nearly gone.[113] - - -8. PENNYGOWAN, MULL. - -Chapel, 39 feet 9 inches long internally. Three narrow single-light -windows, with heads slightly curved; doorway similar. East end -blank.[114] - - -9. LAGGAN, MULL. - -Chapel, 35 feet long internally. North side, long lanciform window and -round-headed door; heads of one stone; east end of south side long, -narrow round-headed window; west end, window with drip-stone; east end -blank. Basin of octagonal font.[115] - - -10. INCHKENNETH, NEAR ULVA. - -Remains of church; seems to be of early first pointed date; simple -oblong, 40 feet 8 inches long by 19 feet 8 inches wide, with small -ruined sacristy on south-east. Flat buttresses at corner of east end, -which contains two long lancet windows enormously splayed inside. Side -walls have each one similar window, and broken doorway in north wall. -Circular piscina.[116] - - -11. ST. MOLUAC, RAASAY. - -First pointed. Internally 46 feet in length. In west end two short -narrow lancets, semi-arched inside, one in middle of wall, the other -aloft in gable. In east end one similar. In south wall two windows and -flat-headed doorway, and inside a large semi-recess in wall.[117] - - -12. KILLEAN, KINTYRE. - -Perhaps Mother-Church. Details more elaborate than usual, vaulted, and -sacristy or chantry chapel at north-east. A south-west doorway, and -another near east end of south wall, and apparently an unusually -distinguished chancel. Narrow round-headed lights on both sides. East -end a very long couplet, formerly separated by a buttress; tooth -ornament round exterior openings; moulded label, string and cornice, and -corner nook shaft.[118] - - -13. KILBRIDE, KNAPDALE. - -Large, not much ruined.[119] - - -14. EORRAPIDH, LEWIS. - -Teampull Moluach. Simple oblong; internally 44 feet long by 17 feet 9 -inches wide, with north-east sacristy and south-east chapel, both roofed -with lean-to. (Fig. 66.) Doorway at south-west, semi-arched; - -[Illustration: FIG. 66.--Teampull Eorrapidh, Lewis. Plan.] - -east window round head, rear arch pointed; west window smaller, round -head with round rear arch. At top of east and of side walls two small -square windows close together, and to west one large and round-headed of -one stone. Windows in side buildings mere slits, flat in head.[120] - - -15. OLRIG, CAITHNESS. - -Walls of old church apparently first pointed.[121] - - -16. KILCHIEVEN OR KILCOIVEN, KINTYRE. - -Simple oblong, a good deal demolished; 51 feet 8 inches long by 17 feet -8 inches wide internally. North-west pointed doorway; remains of -two-light window in south wall, and hole in south wall for piscina. -(Fig. 67.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 67.--Kilchieven Church. Plan.] - -[Illustration: Egilsay, Interior of Choir.] - - - - -CHURCHES IN ORKNEY AND SHETLAND. - -DRAWN AND DESCRIBED BY SIR HENRY DRYDEN, BART. - - -About forty years ago the ancient churches of Orkney and Shetland were -minutely examined by Sir Henry Dryden, who then made measured plans and -drawings of the buildings, showing their condition at that time. - -In 1870 Sir Henry deposited copies of his drawings (copied by Mr. -William Galloway) and descriptions of these churches in the hands of the -Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. As these drawings and descriptions -contain much information, which, from the natural decay of the -structures, is now lost, it appeared to us that the information -collected so long ago by Sir H. Dryden would form an interesting chapter -in this work on the ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland. - -This view has been adopted by Sir Henry, who has most kindly agreed to -allow his drawings and descriptions of the ruined churches of Orkney and -Shetland to be embodied in this book. The consent of the Council of the -Society of Antiquaries of Scotland has also been freely given, and these -valuable drawings and descriptions of ancient churches, which are -rapidly disappearing, are now published for the first time. - -The descriptions are arranged, as far as possible, in the order of the -type of the plans, commencing with the oldest type of simple oblong, -one-chambered churches, and then continuing with the churches containing -architecturally distinguished choir and nave. (See Note by Sir Henry -Dryden, pp. 172, 173.) - - -CHAPEL ON THE BROUGH OF DEERNESS. - -The brough is on the east coast of Deerness, and measures on the top -about 400 feet north and south by 240 feet east and west. It is -separated from the mainland on the south-west by a narrow ravine or -“geo,” which is almost wet at high water. (Fig. 68.) - -The brough is highest on the north, and at that part is about 90 or 100 -feet high. (Fig. 69.) The coast hereabouts is steep and rocky. The use -of the word _brough_ for a detached rock, when _no fort_ is placed on -it, is not unfrequent. - -The chapel (Fig. 70) is near the centre of the brough, enclosed in a -yard 57 feet by 45 feet, of which only the foundation remains. The - -[Illustration: FIG. 68.--Brough of Deerness.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 69.--Chapel on Brough of Deerness.] - -entrance into this is not evident. The chapel is a parallelogram, 24 -feet 5 inches by 17 feet 4 inches outside. The west wall is 3 feet 2 -inches, and the others 3 feet 11 inches thick. Only about 4 feet 6 -inches and 5 feet in height remain above ground. It stands nearly true -east and west, the west end facing a little south of west. It is built -of clay slate from 1 foot to 3 feet long, and 2 to 7 inches thick, now -much covered with yellow lichen. It has only one doorway (Fig. 71), -which is in the west - -[Illustration: FIG. 70.--Chapel on Brough of Deerness. Plan.] - -end, and apparently was only 2 feet wide; but the west wall is -irregular, and appears to have been altered and repaired. The upper part -of the doorway is gone, but probably it was square headed, with a stone -lintel. The jambs are not splayed, and have no rebate for a door, nor is -there any bar hole.[122] By digging at the west doorway it appeared -probable that the floor inside was about 6 feet below top of sill of -east window, but the level is uncertain, as the interior is much covered -with debris. - -Apparently there was only one window, which is in the east end. (See -Fig. 71.) The top is gone, so that it is doubtful whether it was flat or -arched. One jamb is gone and the other somewhat mutilated, but 1 foot 9 -inches in height of it remains. The window had a clear opening of 1 foot -3 inches, with jambs splayed inside, to 3 feet 6 inches in width. It -appears to have had the outer 11 inches of the jambs parallel, and to -have contained glass. On a part of the east wall is built a beacon used -for the survey. - -In the north wall, near east end, is an ambry 2 feet 4 inches wide, not -less than 2 feet 4 inches high (top is gone), and 1 foot 11 inches -recessed. It has no traces of having had a door.[123] Supposing the -floor to have been 6 feet below sill of east window, probably the side -walls were about 8 feet high, and the points of the gables about 18 feet -from floor. The roof was probably of large slabs of stone along the -eaves and above them, either of smaller slabs or of “divots,” fastened -down with “simmons” as on houses. - -[Illustration: FIG. 71.--Chapel on Brough of Deerness. Elevations.] - -The external length is equal to the diagonal of the square of the width. -About 35 yards south of the chapel is a tank or well. - -On the south edge of the brough are stones which appear to have once -formed a wall, and at this point is the entrance from the “geo.” - -Spread over the top of the brough are foundations of at least 18 huts. -They are mostly parallelograms, of about 24 feet by 12 feet outside, and -the walls 2 feet 6 inches and 3 feet thick. These were for the use of -devotees who used this as a place of pilgrimage. - -A survey of our coasts and lakes will show how strong a partiality -existed in early times for selecting as sites for churches and monastic -establishments small islands, isolated rocks, or promontories difficult -of access--for instance, the two St. Michael’s Mounts, Lindisfarn, Iona, -Ireland’s Eye, Inisfallen, &c. Nor was this taste for isolation peculiar -to the coasts. We find throughout Europe, and, indeed, in the East also, -numbers of peaks difficult of access, bearing such buildings. The brough -of Deerness and the brough of Birsay are good examples. - - -CHAPEL ON THE NORTH SHORE OF HEAD OF HOLLAND. - -This is situated within a few yards of the shore, and not many feet -above water level. It is only a heap of ruins, but the measures are just -ascertainable. It is a parallelogram, measuring 37 feet east and west by - -[Illustration: FIG. 72.--Chapel near Shore of Head of Holland. Plan.] - -15 feet 4 inches north and south inside. The north and south walls are 2 -feet 6 inches thick, and east and west ends 3 feet 3 inches, and are of -the red sandstone of the locality. There was a door in the south wall. -Planned in 1870. (Fig. 72.) - - -HALCRO CHAPEL, SOUTH RONALDSHAY. - -This is now wholly destroyed, and even the foundations taken out, but -the measures were obtained by Mr. G. Petrie so soon after the removal of -the latter that the thickness of the walls could be accurately -determined. - -It was a parallelogram, 21 feet by 14 feet inside. The walls were 2 feet -6 inches thick. The place of the doorway was not ascertained. Planned in -1870. (Fig. 73.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 73.--Halcro Chapel, in South Parish, Ronaldshay. -Plan.] - -ST. TREDWELL’S CHAPEL, PAPA WESTRAY. - -This chapel is situated on a little holm in a fresh water loch on the -east side of Papa Westray. (Fig. 74.) It appears probable that a Pict’s - -[Illustration: FIG. 74.--St. Tredwell’s Chapel. Plan and Section.] - -house was constructed on this holm, and that the chapel was built on its -ruins. This St. Tredwell is the same as St. Triduana, whose day in the -Roman calendar is October 8th. She is not mentioned by Alban Butler. The -chapel was much frequented in its day, and many benefits were said to - -[Illustration: FIG. 75.--St. Tredwell’s Chapel. Plan and Elevations.] - -be obtained from the Saint by her devotees. It is a plain parallelogram -(Fig. 75), 20 feet 3 inches east and west by 13 feet 10 inches north and -south inside, and stands west by south and east by north. There is a -narrow doorway near the west end of the south side. Only the lower -portions of the walls remain, except at north-west angle, which measures -8 feet high; but here we have, as usual, the unfortunate information -that within memory the east gable and south wall were standing. The -thickness of the wall on the north is 3 feet 11 inches; east, 4 feet 2 -inches; south, 4 feet 3 inches; and west, 4 feet 9 inches. It is stated -that there was a window in the east end, and that the doorway was flat -headed. No trace of a window remains, and only about 3 feet 6 inches of -the door jambs remain. These have a rebate into which a door is fitted, -but whether in a wooden frame or not cannot be ascertained. The original -floor appears to have been 10 feet above water level. - -There is no means of assigning a date to the building, but the -difference in the thickness of the walls makes it possible that it has -been altered since its first erection. Planned 1870. - - -CHURCH AT SWENDRO, ROUSAY. - -This is in a graveyard, close to the west shore of Rousay, about a mile -north of Westness. It consists of a long parallelogram, and, but for a -stoup near the door, and apparently an ambry near the east end, might be -taken for a post-Reformation building. It has been used till within -memory. It stands about east and west. (Fig. 76.) It is 52 feet 11 - -[Illustration: FIG. 76.--Chapel near Westness, Rousay. Plan and -Elevation.] - -inches east and west by 14 feet 5 inches north and south inside; and the -walls are 2 feet 6 inches on north and south, 2 feet 11 inches on east, -and 3 feet 8 inches on the west. It is now roofless, and in some parts -broken. From the floor to the top of side walls is 9 feet 10 inches. - -There is one doorway near the west end of south wall. (See Fig. 76.) -This is flat headed and rebated, measuring 3 feet 4 inches clear width. -To the west of this doorway and low down is a window 2 feet 11 inches by -1 foot 4 inches clear, flat headed, and splayed inwards and outwards. -Between the window and the doorway (inside) is a recess, probably for -holy water. To the east of the doorway is a window 3 feet 3½ inches by 1 -foot 4 inches, flat headed, and splayed as before. The head is nearly as -high as the eaves. Farther east is another similar window. About midway -along the north wall is a window 2 feet 1½ inch by 1 foot, clear -opening, flat headed, and splayed as before. The head is nearly as high -as the eaves. In the east end (Fig. 77) is a window, of which the sill -is nearly as high as the eaves, 4 feet by 1 foot 2 inches, clear -opening, with flat head, and splays in and out; under this window, and -across the end inside, is a sort of shelf at the height of the top of -the altar. In the west end is a - -[Illustration: FIG. 77.--Chapel near Westness, Ronsay. Sections and -Elevation.] - -window above the level of the eaves, 3 feet 5 inches by 1 foot 4 inches. -There is a seat inside, along the west end and part of the north side. -The east and west gables are in steps, which remain tolerably entire. -The floor of the church is gone. In the yard are numerous rough -tombstones, and a few more modern. Outside the north-west corner of the -yard is the foundation of a small, strong, rectangular building, which -has more the appearance of a fort than a church; but close to it, as is -stated, were found some carved stones of the red sandstone, now at -Westness, one of which appears to be the cap of an elaborate church -doorway, with three shafts on each side. Planned 1870. - - -ST. OLA, KIRKWALL. - -This church stands in Bridge Street Lane, and is now a carpenter’s shop -and warehouse, the property of Mrs. John Reid. It formerly was enclosed -in “a close” or court, and was once converted into a “poorhouse,” from -which the close was called “Poorhouse Close.” It has been so much -mutilated in its several conversions that little can be stated of its -original style and arrangement. - -It stands about west by south and east by north. It consists of one -parallelogram, 35 feet by 18 feet inside. (Fig. 78.) The south side - -[Illustration: FIG. 78.--St. Ola, Kirkwall. Plan.] - -abuts on the lane, and a house is attached to the west end, from which -house into the chapel a modern doorway has been cut. - -[Illustration: FIG. 79.--St. Ola, Kirkwall. Details.] - -The south wall is 2 feet 11 inches thick, the west 3 feet 6 inches. - -The original entrance is on the south, 17 feet from the exterior west -angle. (Fig. 79.) It is 3 feet 5 inches wide, with a semicircular head -and continuous mouldings of a hollow, ornamented with four-leaved -flowers and a filleted roll, like many of the mouldings in the -cathedral, except as to the flowers. When the street was paved about -thirty years ago the ground was raised, the jambs were covered up 9 -inches, two stones were inserted just below the impost and the arch -raised. What the height of the side walls was is not now evident. They -are now about 20 feet above the original floor at the entrance. Probably -the ridge was about 24 feet high. - -The east end has no trace of an original window, but a modern one has -been inserted. In the south wall near the east angle is a modern window, -but probably in the place of an original one. The other original windows -cannot be traced. Probably there was a step at 10 feet or 11 feet from -the east end, and perhaps a screen. A few feet east of the entrance -inside was a stoup or piscina (see Fig. 79). In the north wall near the -east angle remains an ambry (see Fig. 79) 1 foot 4¾ inches wide, 2 feet -1 inch high, and 1 foot 3½ inches recessed. The head is an ogee arch -under a hood moulding, and it is flanked by buttresses with finials. The -bottom of this ambry is 5 feet 1 inch above what appears to have been -the original level of the floor. The moulding of this resembles that of -the entrance, except in having no flowers. - -In the east wall near the south angle is a smaller ambry, also ogee -headed and less ornate, the bottom of which is 2 feet 6 inches above the -floor. The use of the ogee is very rare in Scotland. The only curves of -that kind in St. Magnus are in fragments of Bishop Tulloch’s tomb. - -South of the chapel in what is now the lane were found, in forming the -lane, gravestones and human bones. Close by the chapel was lying, in -1855, a stone, having on it, sculptured in relief, apparently a shield, -under a mitre, but too much defaced to be recognised, and below the -shield, “Robertvs ...,” and a date or letters illegible. Bishop Robert -Reid held the see from 1540 to the Reformation; and as the mouldings -(especially the four-leaved flower and the ogee arch) point to the -fifteenth century, perhaps the chapel may be a late example of the -style, and be assigned to him. His coat of arms is a stag’s head -cabossed. - -The parish in which the town of Kirkwall is situated is that of St. Ola, -and it is certain that in this part of the town was the parish church, -dedicated to the great warrior saint of Norway--St. Olaf. - -The fact of burials having been made close to this building makes it -probable that this was the parish church; not a chapel of ease or of -private endowment. Of course, this building was not the _first_ parish -church, though it may have occupied the site of the first, and probably -did so. - -It was probably after the constitution of Kirkwall as a royal burgh, -about 1470, that the cathedral became practically the parish church, and -St. Ola became merged in Kirkwall. The name Kirkwall (Church-bay), being -wholly Norse, is some evidence that the name was caused by a Norse, not -a Culdee, church. The situation could hardly fail to induce settlement -of the Norsemen there. In the name Egilsey we have inference of a -different origin, as will be hereafter mentioned. But supposing that the -conjecture as to the name of Kirkwall is correct, it does not prove that -there was not a Culdee church there.[124] Planned 1855. - - -_Note by Geo. Petrie, Kirkwall, Corr. Mem. Soc. Antiq. Scot._ - -According to Jo. Ben, whose description of Orkney is dated in 1529, St. -Ola’s Church was reduced to ashes by the English, probably during one of -their many raids on the islands about that time. One of the raids was on -13th August 1502. As apparently corroborative of Sir Henry Dryden’s -conjecture, that St. Ola’s Church was the parish church before the -cathedral was so styled, an old charter in my possession proves that not -only was the church known as St. Ola’s Kirk, but it had “St. Olaf’s -Kirkyard,” “St. Olaf’s Burn,” and “St. Olaf’s Brig” in its vicinity. I -think the fair inference from this is, that a church built here during -the early part of the Norsemen’s possession of the islands was dedicated -with its “kirkyard” to St. Olaf. The name soon extended to the -neighbouring small stream or burn, and the “brig” by which it was -crossed; and in the course of time embraced a considerable portion of -the surrounding country. It is very probable that St. Ola’s Kirk -occupied the same site on which stood the older building, from which the -town was named by the Norsemen Kirkevaag (Kirk-bay), which was anciently -pronounced “Kirkwaw,” and appears in that form in some old documents in -my possession. - -The fact that St. Ola’s Church had been destroyed in the beginning of -the sixteenth century renders it almost certain that Sir Henry Dryden -must be correct in attributing the erection of the church, of which -there are considerable remains, to Bishop Robert Reid, as the style of -architecture, as shown by Sir Henry, is in keeping with the period to -which he supposes the building to belong. - -The charter I have referred to is dated at “Kirkwall in Orknay ye last -of July” 1580, and granted by “John Tailyor and Henrie Tailyor brether -germane, and airis to our umqle fayir (father) Andro Tailyor, to our -weil-be-louit friend Magnus Paplay” of “All and Haill ane hall, ane -seller, ane chalm. yr.aboue wyt. yaird and pt.nents yr.to p.tene.g -quhatsomeuir lyand adjacent to Sanct Olaiffis brig, Kirk and Kirkyaird -of the samy. having on the Est pt. y.roff the housses p.tene.g to -Symound Beatoun; on the West pt. Sanct Olaiffis Kirk and yaird of the -samy.; on the South pt. the housses p.tene.g to Johnne Vysshart and Sant -Olaffis burne yr. betuixt and to ye North pt. Sanct Katereins quoyis.” - - -THE FOLLOWING CHURCHES ARE OF THE TYPE CONTAINING CHANCEL AND NAVE. - - -CHURCH ON THE ISLAND OF WYRE. - -This stands on a flat piece of ground about the middle of the island, in -a walled burial-ground, still used. The chapel has no roof, and is much -filled up with rubbish. Large parts of the south wall have tumbled, as -well as smaller portions of other walls. (Fig. 80.) - -It is built of grey whinstone, without any freestone dressings. The -stones average about 1 foot 6 inches long by about 5 inches thick. It - -[Illustration: FIG. 80.--Church, Wyre, Orkney. From South-West.] - -consists of chancel and nave, with a door at west end--all built at the -same time. (Fig. 81.) The extreme exterior length is 35 feet 10 inches, -and width 18 feet 4 inches. It stands west by south and east by north. -The nave is 19 feet 2 inches by 12 feet 10 inches inside. - -The west entrance is 2 feet 6 inches wide at bottom, with semicircular -head, the feet of which are set back at the impost 2½ inches on each -side. (Fig. 82.) This mode of putting the arch on was probably done to -give a support to the centre on which the arch was built. The jambs are -parallel, 3 feet 2 inches thick, and have no rebate for a door, nor any -traces of there having been one.[125] There is no cap. The impost is 4 -feet 11 inches above original stone sill. The whole interior is from 1 -foot 6 inches to 2 feet deep in rubbish. - -The west wall is 3 feet 2 inches thick, the north and south about 3 -feet. - -There are no windows on the north or west of the nave. There are two on -the south side, but only one of these appears original. This has a - -[Illustration: FIG. 81.--Church, Wyre, Orkney. Plan and North and South -Elevations.] - -clear opening of 1 foot 10 inches by 8 inches, with a flat head. The -jambs splay inward to 2 feet 3 inches in width. The outer edges are -broken, so that it is uncertain whether it had an external chamfer. - -The upper part of the side walls is in many places destroyed, but as far -as can be now ascertained, the top of the nave walls was 11 feet 5 -inches above the sill of west door. The chancel walls were only 4 or 5 -inches lower. - -The upper part of all the gables is gone. - -The chancel arch is exactly like the west entrance in every way. The -jambs are 3 feet thick. A springer of the gable-coping remains at the -north-east angle, 1 foot wide, 7 or 8 inches thick, and of 1 foot -projection. In 1852 the springer at the south-west angle was existing. -The chancel is 7 feet 10 inches by 7 feet 2 inches inside. - -There is one window on the south which appears to have been round -headed, and 2 feet 7 inches by 11 inches. The jambs splay inward to - -[Illustration: FIG. 82.--Church, Wyre, Orkney. Sections and East and -West Elevations.] - -2 feet 11 inches in width. The outer edges are broken, but there seems -to have been an external splay. There is no ambry, and no trace of altar -or altar place. - -The springers of the gable-coping remain at the south-east and -north-east angles. These are 1 foot wide and about 8 inches thick, and -project 1 foot. - -The roofs of nave and chancel were either of tie-beam construction or of -rafters coupled half-way up, and covered with stone slates. - -My conjectural restoration makes the ridge of the nave roof 19 feet -above the sill of the west entrance. This chapel closely resembles in -size and form the chapel at Lybster, in Caithness, described farther on -in this work (p. 162). Probably Wyre Chapel is of the twelfth or -thirteenth century, but the characteristics are not decisive enough to -approximate more closely to its date. It is called “Cubberow” Chapel, -from its vicinity to Cubberow Castle. - -The exterior length of the nave is equal to the diagonal of the square -of its exterior width. The chancel is nearly square. - - -CHURCH ON THE ISLAND OF ENHALLOW. - -This church, till lately, was unknown for many years, having been -converted long ago into a cottage. On the small island Enhallow (the -Holy Island), on the south-west slope of it, and about 200 yards from -the shore, is a cluster of four cottages, in which four families lived. -In 18--fever broke out among them, and the owner, Mr. Balfour, took the -whole - -[Illustration: FIG. 83.--Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Plan.] - -off the island, and pulled the roofs off the cottages. In this clearance -the church was discovered. Having been altered and added to in its -church time, and having since been altered and added to in its domestic -time, its history is very puzzling. - -It is of grey whinstones, mostly from 1 foot to 2 feet long (average 1 -foot 6 inches), and 6 inches to 2 inches thick. The exterior length is -52 feet 8 inches, and the extreme width 23 feet 4 inches. It stands -nearly exactly east and west. (Fig. 83.) The nave is 20 feet 7 inches by -12 feet inside. On the west of this, and entered through a round-headed -arch, 4 feet 3 inches wide, with parallel jambs 2 feet 8 inches thick, -is a building 7 feet 9 inches and 7 feet 5 inches inside, with walls 2 -feet 7 inches thick, without any doorway to the outside, and with only -one small square window to the south, perhaps not original. It is in the -position of a tower, but it is not likely that a tower of that size -would have been added to so small a church, and the walls are too thin. -The size and character of the arch into it (Fig. 84) are against the -notion that it was a - -[Illustration: FIG. 84.--Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Sections and East -Elevation.] - -priest’s room, supposing the room to be cotemporary with the arch. So -little remains of the side walls that with regard to the windows and -roof and height we are left to conjecture. There is no appearance of its -having been higher than the nave. It most resembles a chancel on the -west, and there is in Uyea, Shetland, a chapel with an adjunct, -apparently original, in that position. If we may suppose that the west -arch was the _original_ entrance to the church, and that the south -doorway was of later date, then this building may have been a sacristy, -cotemporary with the south doorway. The floor of the late cottage was -about 1 foot 3 inches above what appears to have been the floor of the -west arch, which is 5 feet 5 inches below the top of cap. The north wall -is 2 feet 10 inches thick, and the south wall 2 feet 6 inches. They are -about 10 feet 6 inches or 11 feet above the supposed sill of the west -arch. - -The south doorway is of ecclesiastical date, even if the jambs are not -original. The north doorway is perhaps domestic, though resembling that -on south. They have the usual rebate and wooden frames fixed in them, -and have lately been the doors of the cottage. - -The heads are square. (Fig. 85.) Probably at the beginning of the -domestic period the south one was altered in some degree, and the north -one made or altered. If the building at the west end was the original -chancel, these entrances are not cotemporary with _that_, being in wrong -position for that arrangement. - -[Illustration: FIG. 85.--Church, Enhallow, Orkney. North and South -Elevations.] - -It is not certain whether the present chancel on the east is cotemporary -with the nave, or whether there was an earlier one or none; but the -present chancel arch is clearly an addition of a much later date than -the nave. (See Fig. 84.) It is 4 feet 1 inch wide, pointed, has red -freestone caps chamfered, and the mark of insertion is clear on the -north side of it. It will be seen that the nave is 11 feet 3 inches wide -at west end, and 12 feet at east, and in the south-east corner there is -a slight projection and roughness. This may be the junction of a former -south wall of the nave which got out of repair, or it may be the -junction of the jamb of the chancel arch. When the chapel came to be -used for a cottage it was divided into two stories. (Fig. 86.) - -On the north (Fig. 87) is one window, square headed, 2 feet by 1 foot 2 -inches clear, with splayed jambs, but without freestone dressings or -external chamfer, and in north-east corner is an ambry 3 feet 9 inches -by 3 feet 9 inches, and 1 foot 6 inches recess. The bottom is 3 feet 6 -inches above the original floor. The position is peculiar. - -[Illustration: FIG. 86.--Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Sections.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 87.--Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Sections.] - -On the south is a window like that on the north, and three small -ambries, perhaps one or all domestic. - -The windows and doors on the north side of the nave and chancel are -higher than on south side, owing to the slope of the ground. - -The chancel is 12 feet 8 inches by 8 feet 9 inches inside, set out -symmetrically with the nave. (See Fig. 83.) When it was made domestic a -doorway was cut in the north wall. For some reason the upper part of the -south wall was pulled down, and a casing put _outside_ the lower part. A -fireplace and chimney were made in the east wall, and a new face put -outside the whole east end, including the added piece on the south, for -no break or juncture is visible outside the east end. On the north is -one window 2 feet by 1 foot clear, with splayed jambs, but no freestone -dressings, and no external chamfer.[126] To the east of it is a small -ambry. The window and ambry on the north are on a higher level than on -the south. - -When the casing was added on the south, the window was shifted out, or a -lintel put in the added piece. Red freestone quoins and two sills (or -possibly one, a square head) are lying near, and the jambs of the south -window are much broken. Probably this sill, jamb stones, and head formed -the south window, and are cotemporary with the chancel arch, having, -perhaps, supplanted a window like that on the north. - -Outside the south door of nave is a square addition, measuring 8 feet 1 -inch by 7 feet 7 inches inside, now only 6 feet high, containing a -radiating stair of five freestone steps. (See Fig. 83.) The west wall of -it is 3 feet, and the south and east 2 feet 3 inches. There is no -evidence of what this was, or led to, but the building certainly is -ecclesiastical by the character of the work. The entrance to it from -outside is on the east. Perhaps the stair led to a priest’s room or -parvise over the porch, which, however, must have been very small; or it -led to a bell turret. There are several jamb stones of red freestone -belonging to a doorway lying about, and one (apparently in its proper -position) is in the jamb of the outer entrance of this porch. (Fig. 88.) -This makes it probable that this building is cotemporary with chancel -arch. The red freestone window jambs, above mentioned, may have come out -of this porch. Whatever the upper part of this porch was, the roof must -have been higher than the eaves of the nave. - -Plaster, apparently ancient, remains on the south wall of chancel lower -part--on jambs of north window of chancel on east side of the chancel -arch in the ambry on north side of the nave. - -The roof was either of tie-beam arrangement, or of rafters coupled -half-way up and covered with stone slates, or “divots.” The ridge of the -nave roof was about 18 feet above sill of west arch. - -The general history may be thus conjectured. In the eleventh or twelfth -century a chapel was built of nave and chancel at the east end of the -nave, and an entrance in the west end of the nave. In the fourteenth - -[Illustration: FIG. 88.--Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Details.] - -century a new chancel arch was inserted, north and south doorways made, -sacristy built at the west end, and a porch and parvise made outside the -south doorway. After it became domestic the changes before described -were made in the chancel. At a later date other additions were made. -(Fig. 89.) - -If we suppose that the west building is the original _chancel_, the -original _entrance_ was in the place now occupied by the chancel arch. - -[Illustration: FIG. 89.--Enhallow. View.] - -The proportion of the inside of the nave is that of the “vesica -piscis”--the width to the length as the base of an equilateral triangle -to the length of two such triangles on opposite sides of that base, and -the internal length of the chancel is equal to the diagonal of the -square of the internal width. - -Barry mentions a tradition that neither rats, mice, nor cats will live -on the island, which tradition agrees with the name of the island. - - -CHAPEL AT LINTON, IN SHAPINSAY. - -This chapel is near the shore at the south-east part of the island. It -consists of nave and chancel, and stands nearly exactly east and west. -(Fig. 90.) The extreme length is 35 feet 9 inches, and the width 19 feet - -[Illustration: FIG. 90.--Linton Chapel. Plan and Elevations.] - -5 inches. About 7 feet in height of the east end of the nave, including -the arch into the chancel (Fig. 91), remains; but of the rest only -about 2 feet and 3 feet remain. It is built of whinstone without any -freestone dressings. - -The nave is 18 feet by 13 feet 7 inches inside. The walls are 3 feet -thick. - -[Illustration: FIG. 91.--Linton Chapel. View.] - -The entrance is in the south wall near the west angle, differing in this -point from most of the early chapels, and is 2 feet 8 inches wide with -parallel unrebated jambs.[127] The upper part of the entrance is gone, -but probably it was a semicircular arch. (Fig. 92.) Nothing can be -stated - -[Illustration: FIG. 92.--Linton Chapel. Section and Elevations.] - -of the windows. The chancel arch (see Fig. 92) is semicircular, of rough -stone, 3 feet wide, with plain parallel jambs, and the arch is set back -on the jambs at the impost, which is about 5 feet 6 inches high from the -supposed floor of the nave. The inside is much filled with rubbish. It -is uncertain whether there was a step at the chancel arch. The chancel -is 7 feet 6 inches by 7 feet inside, narrower than the nave by the -thickness of the walls. The north and south walls are 2 feet 10 inches -thick, and the east wall 3 feet 4 inches. Only about 2 feet in height of -the east wall remains, though within the memory of man the east gable -was standing and a cross on it. - -Nothing can be stated of the windows. The exterior length of the nave -and the interior width are in the proportion of the vesica piscis. The -chancel is nearly square. - -This chapel bears close resemblance in form and size to Wyre Chapel, and -is probably about the same date. It is supposed by the owner that Linton -Farm formed part of St. Catherine’s lands, and that this chapel was -dedicated to that Saint. - - -CHAPEL IN WESTRAY. - -This is in the “West Graveyard,” which is still used, though the chapel -has been for many years a ruin. It consists of nave and chancel, and is -built of the schist of the locality. It stands east and west, within two -degrees. (Fig. 93.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 93.--Chapel in Westray. Plan and South Elevations.] - -The nave originally measured 19 feet east and west by 13 feet 4 inches -north and south inside, but was elongated long subsequently to its -erection, so that latterly it was 46 feet 7 inches by 13 feet 4 inches -inside. The original length is shown by a break in the south wall at 24 -feet 7 inches from the south-east angle of the nave, and by the position -of the - -[Illustration: FIG. 94.--Chapel in Westray. Sections.] - -original doorway, which at the elongation was stopped up. There is also -a tradition that the church was enlarged, and when certain people within -memory were pulling it down, an old inhabitant begged them not to “pull -down the Danes’ work,” alluding to the chancel and eastern part of the -nave. Of the elongation little more than the foundations remain; but it -is evident that there was not a door in the west end or north side, so -that it must have been somewhere in the south wall, between the old -blocked doorway and the south-west angle. The side walls are 3 feet -thick. Of the old part of the south wall, fortunately, we have -considerable part. (See Fig. 93.) The old doorway is nearly complete. It -had plain parallel jambs, without rebate, 2 feet 4 inches apart, a plain -projecting abacus, and a semicircular head set back at the impost. To -the east of that is a window entire. It has a semicircular head, and -measures 2 feet 7 inches high by 11½ inches clear opening, with jambs -splayed to the width of 1 foot 7½ inches. - -The chancel arch remains entire. (Fig. 94.) It has plain angular jambs 4 -feet apart, a plain abacus of schist and a semicircular head. The -impost is 5 feet 7 inches above what appears to be the old floor. (Fig. -95.) The wall is 2 feet 9 inches thick. The chancel is 9 feet 1 inch -east and west by 6 feet 8 inches north and south inside. It had a - -[Illustration: FIG. 95.--Chapel in Westray. View from North-West.] - -cylindrical vault, of which part remains. (Fig. 96.) It springs from the -level of the impost of the chancel arch, and is slightly set back at the -impost, as many of the old arches were, to give support to the -centering. - -[Illustration: FIG. 96.--Chapel in Westray. View from South-East.] - -It had one window, which was in the east end, which is now gone; but -within a few years the east gable was existing. According to an old -inhabitant the east window was like the south one in the nave. The vault -is 1 foot 3 inches thick. - -In the graveyard is lying what appears to be the saddlestone of one of -the gables, of the red sandstone of Eday. - -This chapel probably is of the twelfth century, and possibly of the -thirteenth. Planned 1870. - - -CHURCH ON EGILSEY. - -The island on which this church stands is about three miles north and -south and one mile east and west. The church is on the west side of it -near the Howa Sound, which separates Egilsey from Rousay, and is a -conspicuous object from all sides, as the island has no prominent -points, and the church is on the highest ground. - -The flood tide runs from north-west to south-east. There is a -landing-place at the south point and on west side, but not at north -point. The name Egilsey or Egilshay is derived from an ancient form of -the Gaelic word _eaglais_, a church (derived from ecclesia), with the -Norse addition of _ey_, an island. - -[Illustration: FIG. 97.--Church on Egilsey. Ground Plan.] - -Professor Munch infers that the Norsemen founded a church here, and -called the island after it; and if this is the case, the date of the -erection of the church is put very far back, unless we suppose this to -be a _second_ church. It was dedicated to St. Magnus; but this might be -a second dedication, and probably was so. At the end of this article are -further remarks on this point. The church is complete, except the roofs -and the upper part of the tower, and was used up to about 18--as the -place of worship. It consists of a chancel nave and tower at the west -end of the nave, and stands nearly exactly east and west. (Fig. 97.) - -The only alterations which appear to have been made in the building are -two or three windows. The ground plan shows a proportion which, if not -intentional, is singular. If four circles of the exterior diameter of -the tower are laid down in a line, and the first occupied by the tower, -the second and third fill the inside of the nave, and the fourth takes -in the chancel, including the side walls, but excluding the east wall. -The whole is of grey whinstone, without any freestone dressings, and has -become very picturesque in colour, from the rich grey lichen on some -parts and bright yellow lichen on others. - -The masonry is chiefly in courses, but the size of the stones very -irregular, some being as large as 4 feet long and 1 foot 6 inches deep. -The interstices are filled with very small stones. Here and there -irregular blocks are inserted. - -The whole is built with mortar. - -The extreme length is 62 feet 9 inches, and the extreme width is 21 feet -7 inches. - -The nave is 29 feet 9 inches by 15 feet 6 inches inside. The north and -south walls are 3 feet thick. On the north and south, opposite each -other, are two doorways 2 feet 6 inches wide. These have round arched - -[Illustration: FIG. 98.--Church on Egilsey. Section from West to East.] - -heads and rebated jambs without chamfers. On the north side of the nave -is a window 3 feet 3 inches high and 8½ inches wide at the outside of -the wall with semicircular head. (Figs. 98-100.) The jambs are splayed -inwards to 2 feet 9 inches wide. On the south is a similar window. It is -to be observed that these windows have no external chamfer--that is, the -outer edges of the jambs are acute angles. This peculiarity is found in -early Irish churches.[128] They were not originally glazed, but probably -had a frame fitted into them, when required, covered with parchment. On -this south side are two windows, not original--one close to the east -wall and low down, the other high up over the south doorway, (see Fig. -102.) - -The side walls are about 15 feet 4 inches high from the floor, equal to -the internal width of the nave. - -On the west of the nave is the tower, which is circular, 14 feet 10½ -inches diameter externally, and 7 feet 8 inches diameter internally. An -arch 2 feet 5 inches wide leads from the nave into it. (Fig. 101.) The -jambs are 3 feet 7 inches thick, and the head is semicircular. The tower -appears to have been built with the nave, although the stones in the -tower are on the average smaller than those in the nave, which -difference may be accounted for by the unfitness of large stones, when -not freestone, for circular work. - -[Illustration: FIG. 99.--Church on Egilsey. Section from East to West.] - -The tower seems to have contained four chambers, including the one on -the ground. - -Above the tower arch, at 16 feet 3 inches from the floor of the nave, -but under the nave roof, is an arched opening in the tower 5 feet 4 -inches high and 2 feet 3 inches wide. A similar opening is found in many -early churches in England, the use of which is not ascertained. - -Arches in the same position are in St. Magnus. - -The nave roof appears to have been of a “square pitch”--that is, the -angle at the apex is about a right angle. Of the construction of the -roof we know nothing, except that it was not vaulted. - -Probably all the rafters were framed in couples, and the covering formed -of coarse slates. - -Each end of the roof is terminated by a wall 1 foot 2 inches wide, -formed of corby-steps, standing up above the roof as usual. The ridge -of the roof was about 25 feet above the floor. Above the roof of the -nave in the east side of the tower is an arched opening 4 feet 1 inch -high and 1 foot 9 inches wide. At about 7 feet above this is a smaller -opening in the east side, and similar ones in the three other sides of -this story. The top of the tower is now about 11 feet wide, and about 48 -feet from the floor of the nave. It is stated that about 15 feet was -taken off the top. Probably it was surmounted by a conical roof. - -[Illustration: FIG. 100.--Church on Egilsey. North Elevation.] - -On the south side, and near the ground, is a window, but this is a -modern work. There is a small window in the second story looking north. -(See Fig. 99.) - -The chancel is 14 feet 11 inches by 9 feet 5½ inches inside; the side -walls 2 feet 9 inches thick, and the east wall about the same. It is -roofed with a plain barrel vault, of which the semicircular chancel arch -forms part. (See Fig. 101.) The impost of this arch is 5 feet from the -floor of the nave. Probably there was a step here or a little farther -east. - -The pressure of the vault has forced out the jambs of the arch (that is, -the side walls), and given the arch a horse-shoe form. Dr. Wilson lays -some stress on this peculiarity of form, taking it to be intentional, -but it is purely the result of lateral pressure. - -The east end has no window. On the north is a window 1 foot 7½ inches -high and 11 inches wide at the outside, with a semicircular head, below -the impost of the vault. The jambs are splayed inward to 2 feet 1 inch -in width, without an external chamfer. On the south is a similar window. -(Fig. 102.) Probably, like the nave windows, they were not originally -glazed. - -Over the vault of the chancel is a chamber, entered from the nave by a -semicircular arch 6 feet 4 inches high and 2 feet 2 inches wide, over -the chancel arch. (See Fig. 101.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 101.--Church on Egilsey. West and East Elevations.] - -It is lit by a flat-headed window in the east end, 1 foot 6 inches high. -This probably served as a depository for books, muniments, &c. - -It is called by the country people “Grief House,” and supposed to have -been a prison, &c. - -The side walls of this chamber are 2 feet 4½ inches thick, and the east -wall 2 feet 7½ inches. - -The ridge of the chancel roof was 20 feet 9 inches above the floor of -the nave. [Figs. 103, 104 show the appearance of the building from -south-east and north-west.] - -It remains too approximate to the date of this church. - -There was a church in Egilsey when St. Magnus was murdered in 1110. The -attaching so large a tower to the church tends to show that this was a -church of a superior order when it was built. - -The style of architecture (Figs. 103, 104) (discarding certain -indications of an earlier date) prevents our assigning to it a later -date than the beginning of the twelfth century. When we contrast it with -the Kirkwall Cathedral, begun in 1137, we are forced to give an earlier -date than that to Egilsey. This opinion is corroborated by the churches -at Orphir and the Brough of Birsa. The islands were conquered by the -Norsemen in 876, and reconverted to Christianity in 998. The church, -therefore, was probably not built between those dates. There were -Christians in these islands before the arrival of the Norsemen. The name -of the island, as - -[Illustration: FIG. 102.--Church on Egilsey. South Elevation.] - -before mentioned, is evidence that there was a church of distinction in -Egilsey when they arrived. - -Neale[129] supposes that the church to which St. Magnus fled was on the -east side of the island; supposing Haco to have come from Birsay by the -north of Rousay to the east of Egilsey. Haco’s starting point is not -certain; but if it was Birsay, he would naturally have come by the south -of Rousay to the west of Egilsey. - -There is some confusion about the Episcopal Church and residence. Barry -(p. 162) quotes Torfœus as stating that Bishop William lived in Egilsey. -Neale (following Barry) has made the same statement. - -Torfœus twice states that the bishop resided at Birsa. - -The Saga is still more to the point, and states that at the time of St. -Magnus’s death William the Old was bishop, and the see was then at -Birsa. But Torfœus, in three or more other passages, states that Bishop -William _was in_ Egilsey--not necessarily _residing_ there. - -We must understand (if Torfœus is right) that he generally _lived_ in -Birsa, but often officiated at Egilsey. We may thence infer that Egilsey -was an important church in Bishop William’s time, and that it was fixed - -[Illustration: FIG. 103.--Church on Egilsey.] - -on as the place of meeting of Haco and Magnus from being frequently the -bishop’s abode. We do not, however, find the bishop mentioned in the -account of the murder of St. Magnus as adviser or mediator.[130] - -Wilson, in his _Prehistoric Annals_, p. 587, has a notice of this -church, to which the reader is referred. He supposes it to be the work -of Irish Christians before the expedition of Harold in 876, and to be -the church which caused the Norsemen to give its present appellation to -the island. - -There is at all events nothing to disprove this, but if we put the tower -for the moment out of the question, there is little to induce the -assignment of so early a date. The absence of freestone, the round -arches, the chancel vault, the small number and size of the windows, do -not necessitate a date earlier than the twelfth century. - -The tower, then, is the feature which specially points to an earlier -period. Dr. Wilson apparently inclines to class this tower with the -later round towers of Scotland and Ireland. - -When, however, we compare it, there appears little or no resemblance -except its circularity. - -The round towers, with one or two exceptions, are detached buildings, -though situated within a few feet of churches, have their entrances at - -[Illustration: FIG. 104.--Church on Egilsey. North-West View.] - -several feet from the ground, and have jambs inclined towards each other -upwards. They have other differences of construction, which, however, -may be in part accounted for by the difference of the available -materials. - -The Irish tower which most resembles Egilsey is the smaller one of the -two at Clonmacnoise. This is an integral part of the church, and joined -to the south-east angle of the nave. The entrance to it is on the -ground, from the chancel. To this church Dr. Petrie assigns the date of -some years before 1000 (p. 271). In many particulars the tower at -Egilsey approximates more closely to the round towers of Norfolk, which -are of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. There is no evidence of -another church in another place having existed in the island; nor -account of the _building_ of any church in the island. - -These, however, are very slight evidences of the antiquity of the -present church. - -There does not appear to be positive evidence that the Christian priests -were exterminated by the Norse conquest; though it is probable that -they would fly westward. If, however, we give up the idea of its Norse -origin, we ought to find resemblances between it and the ancient Irish -churches of the eighth, ninth, and tenth centuries. These we do find. -First, the size of Egilsey is close on the authoritative size of the -more important of the ancient churches, presuming the present foot to be -about equal to the ancient Irish foot. The authorised Irish size is 60 -feet by 27 feet; Egilsey is 62 feet 9 inches and 21 feet 7 inches. The -lowness of the chancel, the chamber or “croft” over it, the second -chamber in the tower with an arch from it into the nave over the tower -arch, the number and size of the windows, the peculiarity of their -splays, having no exterior chamfer, the character of the masonry, all -resemble the early Irish churches. On the other hand, three great -criteria of an early Irish church are not found in Egilsey--the -approximation of the jambs of doors and windows towards their imposts, -the horizontal heads to the doorways, and the east window. It seems, -however, probable that the difference of the materials induced one of -these differences. It was difficult to get in Orkney lintels strong and -long enough for heads of doorways, though we find them in the broughs. -The rebates in the doorways are again of a very early date. - -It seems on the whole fair to suppose Egilsey to have been built after -the traditional Irish form, but with modifications; and soon after the -reconversion of the islands to Christianity in 998. If built before that -time, we must refer it to the beginning or middle of the ninth century. - -Unfortunately Neale, when in Orkney, was unable to see this church, and -has given a cut, professing to be an approximate likeness of the tower, -which is very erroneous in several particulars. The etching in Muir’s -“Sketch” is also wrong in proportion. - -In the _Orcadian_ of January 1855 is an account by Mr. Petrie of the -finding the remains of Bishop William “the Old” in the cathedral in -1848. His bones, and the chest containing them, were moved when the -cathedral was reseated in 1856. The leaden plate bearing the -inscription, and a bone article (doubtless the cross handle of his -walking stick) found in the chest, are now in the Edinburgh Museum. - - -CHURCH ON BROUGH OF BIRSAY. - -The brough contains about 40 acres, and is separated on the east from -the mainland by a rocky channel, which is about 150 yards wide, and dry -at low water. The surface of the brough slopes down from a high cliff on -the west to a cliff of about 20 feet high on the east. The chapel is -about 50 yards from the shore at the point nearest to the mainland. -(Fig. 105.) It is enclosed in a yard about 33 yards east and west, by 27 -yards north and south, of which the wall is destroyed. At the edge of -the cliff are traces of a wall. The chapel consists of nave, chancel, -and apse, all well defined, and all apparently built at the same time. -(Fig. 106.) The material is grey whinstone, and no traces of freestone -dressings appear. It stands nearly east and west, but the west end -facing a little to the north of west. - -[Illustration: FIG. 105.--Church on Brough of Birsay. Plan of Site and -Towers.] - -The extreme exterior length is 57 feet, and extreme width 21 feet 3 -inches. - -The west wall is 3 feet 8 inches thick; the north and south walls of -nave and aisles 2 feet 9 inches; the wall of apse 2 feet 4 inches. There -were no buttresses. - -[Illustration: FIG. 106.--Church on Brough of Birsay. Plan.] - -The interior is filled with debris to the depth of about 2 feet 6 inches -above the floor, and the exterior to about the same depth. Partial -excavations were made for this plan. Of the west end, only 3 feet in -height of wall remains (Fig. 107); of the north wall (Fig. 108) a little -more, and of south wall a little less; of the north wall of chancel, 8 -feet 6 inches; of south wall of chancel, about 2 feet; of the apse, -about 2 feet 4 inches. The nave is 28 feet 3 inches by 15 feet 6 inches -inside. The only entrance to the church is in the west end, 3 feet 8 -inches wide. The jambs are parallel, without any chamfer, and there is -no rebate for a door nor appearance of hinges; and original plaster -remains on the jamb down to the sill and all across it. There is no -appearance of the insertion of a wooden frame. This mode of making jambs -of doorways is to be seen at Lybster in Caithness, Wyre, Lynton in -Shapinsay, Uya in Shetland, and in some of the oratories in Ireland, -&c.[131] Were there doors in these doorways, - -[Illustration: FIG. 107.--Church on Brough of Birsay. East and West -Elevations and Sections.] - -and, if so, where placed and how hung? It is known that in many cottages -in old times the door was an animal’s hide hung across the opening, and -probably this may have been the case in these unrebated church -entrances. Possibly this plain jamb may be an evidence of antiquity; -though Egilsey and Kirk of the Ness in Yell have the usual form of jamb. -Probably this doorway was surmounted by a semicircular arch, though many -of the ruder chapels had square-headed doorways with a large stone -lintel, as at Lybster, Caithness. There are very few instances of the -passage between a nave and chancel being square-headed. Where there is a -semicircular arch on plain jambs, as in the doorways beforementioned, -and in some chancel arches, as at Linton, Shapinsay; Kirk of the Ness, -Yell; Wyre, &c., there is generally a peculiarity which may be mentioned -here--the feet of the arch are set back on the jambs at the imposts two -or three inches on each side. This was probably to support the centre on -which the arch was built, instead of supporting it by props from the -floor. - -[Illustration: FIG. 108.--Church on Brough of Birsay. North Side -Elevation.] - -In the north-east and south-east corners are two circular spaces 5 feet -6 inches in diameter (see Fig. 108), the south one of which contains a -freestone stair step, and the north one some broken stone. Probably both -were staircases; but how high they reached, to what they led, and what -was the superstructure we can only conjecture. One or both may have led -to turrets, or to priests’ rooms over the chancel arch, or chancel or -nave. We cannot suppose a rood-loft to have existed here. The support of -the west side of the stairs is now gone, but we must suppose that a -block of masonry existed which included the circle of the staircase. -Against this, the _seat_ on the south apparently runs past the spot at -which it should have stood, and there are no decisive traces of a -junction in the north and south walls. There is no other solution of the -difficulty. This very massive separation between nave and chancel is -probably unique. M‘Cormac’s chapel at Cashel has a turret and a chamber -in nearly the same positions as these staircases; but the construction -in that case is clear.[132] - -A stone seat, 1 foot 2 inches high and 1 foot 2 inches wide, ran all -round the nave--at least, it was traced at west doorway and at the east -end of the south wall of the nave. The roof was probably of tie beam -construction, and covered with stone slabs. - -The entrance to the chancel is 4 feet 3 inches wide, of which 4 feet in -height of the jambs remain. They are 3 feet 7 inches thick from west to -east, but if the construction was that suggested above, the jambs were 7 -feet from west to east, including an entrance into each turret 2 feet -wide. (Fig. 109.) The entrance to the chancel was probably surmounted by -a semicircular arch of whinstone, plastered, about 8 feet or 9 feet high -to the apex, with string-course caps 4 or 5 inches deep. The angles were -not chamfered. - -[Illustration: FIG. 109.--Church on Brough of Birsay. Entrance to -Chancel, and Interior Elevation of West End.] - -There is a step in this entrance of only 2 inches, and from that to the -east end of the apse was flush originally. The pavement is of -flagstones. This low position of the original altar is peculiar. - -The chancel is 10 feet 9 inches east and west, and 10 feet 3 inches -inside. Only one window remains, which is in the north wall of chancel, -and this has lost its lintel (Fig. 110). The clear opening was 3 feet by -10½ inches, with, as stated, a square head. The window has an internal -and external splay, each widening to 1 foot 10½ inches. This form is -peculiar. There was probably a frame, fixed in the narrow part of the -opening, containing glass. In this wall, just east of the window and -lower, is a square ambry, 3 feet high by 2 feet 8 inches wide, and 1 -foot 11 inches in recess. The use of so large an ambry is not evident. -The bottom of it is only 2 feet above the floor. There is no appearance -of its having had doors. In the north-east part of the nave of Enhallow -Chapel is a similar recess, and one in the same position as this in the -chapel on the Brough of Deerness. It is possible, but not probable, that -these were Easter sepulchres. In the Kirk of the Ness, North Yell, is a -larger one. Of the south wall of the chancel so little remains that -nothing can be stated as to window piscina or sedile. - -It is remarkable that the floor was originally level to the end of the -apse, and no elevation given to the altar, which was probably at the -chord of the apse; but in later times they built a reredos which -_blocked off_ the apse, and then they appear to have made steps to the -altar. Some part of the altar remains. It appears to have been 4 feet 1 -inch by 2 feet 7 inches. Possibly the reredos did not reach many feet -high, so that the upper part of the apse appeared over it. - -[Illustration: FIG. 110.--Church on Brough of Birsay. Section from West -to East.] - -As there were no buttresses, it is not likely that the chancel was -vaulted. The roof was probably of tie-beam construction, or of rafters -coupled half-way up, as in cottages, and covered as the nave roof. It is -probable that the apse was vaulted, and the arch into it may be -conjectured to have been 10 feet high, and semicircular, and to have -formed part of a plain vault, as at Orphir and St. Margaret’s Chapel at -Edinburgh. The ground plan is somewhat in the form of a horse-shoe -internally. Probably there was a small window in east end, and this must -have been at a lower level than the one on the north. - -The interior of the nave is of the proportion of the vesica piscis. The -width of the chancel is less than of the nave by the thickness of the -side walls. The interior of the chancel is square. It is stated in -Barry[133] to have been dedicated to St. Peter, and to have been a place -of pilgrimage. The writer was informed that many years ago a skewer was -found, with a skull, outside the chapel. This was probably the pin of a -winding sheet. - -There can be little hesitation in assigning this church to about 1100. -It is recorded that Earl Thorfin built Christ’s Church in Birsay, and -that the body of St. Magnus was buried there. It appears probable that -if St. Peter’s had been built as long after his death as his -canonisation, it would have been dedicated to him. Even if it had been -built in memory of St. Magnus before his canonisation, and dedicated to -some other saint, probably the dedication would have been changed after -his canonisation. As it is recorded that Thorfin built Christ’s Church, -it is probable that if he had, St. Peter’s would have been recorded -also. It is more probable that it was built by his second son, Erlend, -the father of St. Magnus. - -This church bears considerable resemblance to Old Bewick, -Northumberland, figured in Muir’s “Sketch”; to Moccas and Kilpeck in -Herefordshire, and to St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh. - -Mr. Leask of Boardhouse, in 1867, made an excavation in the church, to -determine, if possible, whether foundations exist of the walls supposed -to have enclosed the west sides of the circular recesses. He found none -and found plaster on the north wall of the nave, where the supposed wall -should have joined. Possibly the supposed walls were taken down during -the time the chapel was used. He found in the north wall of the nave, at -5 feet west of the angle of the recess, an entrance 2 feet 4 inches -wide. The position is very unusual. Planned 1866. - - -CHURCH AT ORPHIR, ORKNEY. - -This highly interesting fragment stands near the east end of the parish -church, and probably the reason why it has not obtained that notice -which it deserves is, that the larger and most interesting part of it -was destroyed before 1758, to build or enlarge the present parish -church. It consisted originally of a circular nave, and apsidal chancel -added to its east part. (Fig. 111.) The chancel remains, but only 9 feet -on each side of it of the circular nave. Fortunately we have a short -record of its size and form in Sinclair’s _Statistical Accounts_, xix. -417, quoted in Wilson, _Prehistoric Annals_, 598. It is there -stated:--“In the churchyard are the remains of an ancient building -called the Girthhouse, to which great antiquity is ascribed. It is a -rotundo, 18 feet in diameter and 20 feet high, open at top; and on the -east side is a vaulted concavity, where probably the altar stood, with a -slit in the wall to admit the light; two-thirds of it have been taken -down to repair the parish church,” &c. In the translation of Torfœus by -the Rev. A. Pope is this note by the translator (p. 108), who visited -Orphir in 1758:--“The temple of Orphir, or Gerth-house, was a rotundo 22 -feet in diameter, and 61 feet perpendicular wall above ground. The -cupola, with the open for the light, was of an elegant cast, and the -light was all from the open, and lighted the house sufficiently. There -was a small slit in the east side for light to the priest, who stood in -a niche elegantly done. The work was very firm; and though at that time -there was a breach made in order to get stones to repair the parish -kirk, yet the stones crumbled to pieces before they could be loosed,” -&c. - -In the _Orcadian_, July 1861, is an account of this church by Mr. G. -Petrie. It is there stated that the present parish church was erected in -1829. (See also his notice of the ruins, in the _Archæological Journal_, -1861, No. 71, p. 226-230.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 111.--Church at Orphir. Plan and Section through -Apse.] - -It is evident that the east wall of the parish church could not have -co-existed with the old nave, for the new church stands on part of it. - -From these several statements we must infer that part of the old church -was pulled down before 1758 to build or enlarge, not to repair, the -parish church, and possibly a farther portion pulled down in 1829. - -We must understand the “cupola” to be a conical roof, and “the open for -the light” to be a glazed lantern on it, which, however, was probably -not original. (Fig. 112.) “Open at top,” in Sinclair, must refer to this -lantern. The framework of it must have been of wood, as at Ely. - -The curvature of the two parts of the nave wall still remaining gives an -interior diameter of about 19 feet, thus corroborating the diameters -given by Pope and Sinclair. Neither of these persons had seen the church -perfect; and the differences in the measures given by them show that -their informants did not speak from exact data. The “61 feet -perpendicular wall” is a gross mistake either of printer, or translator, -or his informant. Even the “20 feet high” seems over the mark, though -this may be a loose approximation to the height of the side walls. - -[Illustration: FIG. 112.--Church at Orphir. Elevation of Apse, and -Details.] - -Supposing the preceding conjectures as to the shape of the roof to be -correct, the top of the “fleche” surmounting the lantern would be about -40 feet. Then, supposing that Pope was told that the height was 41 feet, -and the height of the side walls 20 feet, he might have added them -together. - -The diameter was less open to error than the height. One writer, -however, might give the outer diameter and the other the inner. - -It is built of yellow Orphir freestone. The nave walls are 3 feet 9 -inches thick, well built; and probably the entrance was at the west, as -in the other round churches. - -It is highly improbable that Pope is right in stating that “the light -was all from the open”--that is, that there were no windows in the nave -walls. Probably there were four single lights. - -The chancel, which is little more than the apse, is 7 feet 2 inches wide -and 7 feet 9 inches deep, or long, with wall 2 feet 8 inches thick. The -arch into it is semicircular, and forms part of a plain unribbed vault, -as at St. Margaret’s Chapel at Edinburgh. (See Fig. 111.) The impost of -the vault arch is 6 feet 5 inches above what appears to have been the -floor, and the top, consequently, 10 feet 6 inches high. Outside the -vault was originally probably a solid stone roof, the apex of which was -about 14 feet - -[Illustration: FIG. 113.--Church at Orphir. Elevations of Apse.] - -from the floor. This height (supposing also that there was a step at the -chancel arch) would oblige the walls of the nave to be about 15 feet -high. The chancel has no buttresses. There is one window in the chancel, -in the east end, 2 feet 5 inches by 10½ inches clear, opening with jambs -splayed inward to 1 foot 8 inches wide. (Fig. 113.) The outer edges are -chamfered, and the head semicircular. The impost is at the same level as -of vault. It has a groove for glass. - -A stone lying down appears to be part of a stoup. - -The exterior width of the chancel is half the exterior width of the -nave. - -On the south side of the nave is the trace of a building in the form of -a parallelogram, and other indications of buildings. Pope states that -before his visit in 1758, large foundations had been found in digging -earth for the Bow of Orphir, near the Gerth-house. - -The “four round churches” of Britain are--Cambridge, consecrated in -1101; Northampton, probably shortly before 1115; Maplestead, 1118; and -London, 1185.[134] To these must be added the small Norman chapel in -Ludlow Castle, and we may safely add, as a sixth, Orphir. The church of -the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem was the type of all, and the Crusades -were the means of importing the form into Britain. In conjecturing the -date of Orphir, we may take into account that there was a palace of the -Earl Haco (son of Paul I.) at Orphir, according to Torfœus. He went to -the Holy Land and back, and died in 1103. The same writer describes the -palace of Earl Paul II. at Orphir, and states that a temple stood -opposite the wall of the palace. This earl died about 1136. If this -statement is to be believed, this must be the church mentioned, and -hence we get 1090-1137 as the limits within which this church was built. - -Earl Ronald founded the cathedral about 1138, and soon after went to the -Holy Land, accompanied, of course, by some of his high officers. He died -in 1158. We may fairly conclude that this round church had some -connection with one of these expeditions. As Earl Ronald needed all his -money for the cathedral, we cannot suppose that he had any hand in -building Orphir; but it is not improbable that some one of his wealthier -followers built it, and we may, from the dates of the other churches and -these facts, fix on 1090-1160 as limits of the date of its erection. - -In the Edinburgh Museum is a stone article, presented by D. Balfour, -Esq., found at this church. It is circular, 4¼ inches diameter, ¾ inch -thick, with a small square hole in centre. Its use is not evident. -Planned 1855. - - - - -CHURCHES IN SHETLAND. - -THESE ARE ALL CHANCEL CHURCHES EXCEPT CULBINSBROUGH, WHICH IS CRUCIFORM. - - - CANONS ASHBY, _Feb. 21, 1868_. - - SIR,--Last year you inserted in the _Orcadian_ accounts by me of - some of the ruined churches in Orkney; I now send you accounts of - some of those in Shetland. Every year destroys some portion of - these ruins, and of the most complete in Shetland a considerable - portion has fallen since I made the plans of it in 1855. Though the - owners of these humble ruins do not value them, they have a value - with historians and antiquaries as examples of the ecclesiastical - architecture of the North in its least elaborate state, and - evidences of the religious condition of the islands in past times. - We find no St. Magnus and no Egilsey in Shetland; but still the - ruins which exist there are worthy of record. - - The number of churches which once existed in Shetland is - extraordinary. For instance, Unst, which is about 6 miles by 3 - miles, had at least twenty-four. Of most of the Shetland churches - every trace but a name or a tradition is gone; of others only a - heap of stones remains; of others a few fragments of wall enable us - to make approximate plans, and one only is tolerably complete. A - little labour with pick and spade would enable us, in many - instances, to determine more about them than is possible in their - present state. No people ought to be more impressed with religion - and the uncertainty of life than the Shetlanders. The effects of - the storms on sea and land, the terrible tideways among the - islands, and the barren nature and exposed position of much of the - land, make life a continued struggle for safety or for food. - Doubtless the tradition concerning nearly every church was true of - some--that they were built as thankofferings for escape from an - ocean grave. The churches of which I send an account are - Culbinsbrough, Bressay, Noss, West Sandwick, Yell, the Ness (Yell), - Uya, and Norwick, Haroldswick, Kirkaby, and Colvidale, all in Unst. - - I have to acknowledge the assistance of Mr. J. T. Irvine, formerly - of Yell, and of Mr. Sandison of Uya, and to thank many friends in - Shetland for hospitality and information.--I remain, your obedient - servant, - - H. DRYDEN. - - - - -CHAPEL OF NOSS, BRESSAY. - -This ruin is near the sound which separates Noss from Bressay, on an -elevation of about 20 feet or 30 feet above the water. The dedication is -unknown. - -It consisted of a nave and chancel (Fig. 114), of which only a fragment - -[Illustration: FIG. 114.--Chapel of Noss. Plan.] - -of the north wall of the chancel remains, about 4 feet or 5 feet high. -The nave was about 18 feet 6 inches by 14 feet, and the chancel about -12 feet east and west, by 10 feet north and south, as shown by the ridge -in the turf. - -Nothing certain can be stated of the door or chancel arch. Planned in -1852. - - -KIRKABY, WESTING, UNST. - -This is in the west part of the island, in a walled churchyard, about 80 -feet north and south, and 60 feet east and west. By remains outside the -south-east part of the wall, it is evident that the church has been - -[Illustration: FIG. 115.--Kirkaby, Westing. Plan.] - -built on the ruins of a brough or other ancient building. The dedication -is unknown. The church consisted of a nave (Fig. 115) about 13 feet 9 -inches by 12 feet, and a chancel about 10 feet by 7 feet inside. The -walls were about 2 feet 9 inches thick. The chancel arch was equal in -width to the chancel. About 2 feet in height of the north wall of the -nave and of the north wall of the chancel remains, and traces of the -rest sufficient to approximate to the size. The entrance was probably in -the west end. The chancel inside equals in length the diagonal of the -square of the width. - -Plan by Mr. J. T. Irvine, 1863. - - -MEAL COLVIDALE, UNST. - -This is in the south-east part of the island, in a yard about 112 feet -east and west by 85 feet north and south. (Fig. 116.) The dedication is -unknown. The nave is about 12 feet by 11 feet inside; the chancel 7 feet -9 inches by 7 feet 6 inches inside; and the walls 3 feet thick. - -[Illustration: FIG. 116.--Meal Colvidale. Plan.] - -About 2 feet in height of the north wall of the nave, and about the same -of the north wall of the chancel, and a fragment of the interior face of -the south wall of the chancel remain. Traces indicate the outline. The -nave is very short. The chancel arch was equal in width to the chancel. -The door was probably in the west end. - -Plan by Mr. J. T. Irvine in 1863. - - -ST. JOHN’S KIRK, NORWICK, UNST. - -This is in the north-east part of the island, on the south side of a -bay. It is dedicated to St. John. - -It consists of nave (Fig. 117), about 26 feet 6 inches and 13 feet 6 -inches inside, and chancel about 16 feet by 8 feet 8 inches. The walls -are 2 feet 4 inches thick. Only about 2 feet in height of the central -portion remains, that is about 12 feet 6 inches of the east part of the -nave, and about 10 feet of the west part of the chancel. The chancel -arch was equal in width to the chancel. The doorway was probably in the -west end. - -In the churchyard are several crosses and coped coffins of rude -construction. Some also at Sandwick, Unst. The nave equal in length - -[Illustration: FIG. 117.--St. John’s Kirk, Norwick. Plan.] - -inside to double its width. Chancel equal inside to vesica piscis. - -Plan by Mr. J. T. Irvine in 1863. - -When Low visited it, it was nearly entire, and the altar remained. - - -CHURCH AT UYA. - -The island of Uya, or Uyea, is not more than 2½ miles by 1 mile across. -It lies to the west of Unst. The ruin is near the east shore. The -dedication is unknown. - -[Illustration: FIG. 118.--Church at Uya. Plan, South Elevation, &c.] - -It consists of a nave and a building like a chancel to the west of the -nave (Fig. 118), and lies true east and west. - -About 7 feet 6 inches high on an average of the side walls remain. The -material is the grey whinstone of the island, and the blocks from 4 feet -by 1 foot by 1 foot downwards. - -The nave is 16 feet 9 inches by 13 feet inside. The east wall of the -nave is 3 feet 6 inches thick, and the others now vary from 2 feet 10 -inches to 3 feet 1 inch. The side walls vary from 6 feet to 7 feet 6 -inches in height. No window remains, but probably there was one on the -south side. - -In the east end is an arch or doorway (Fig. 119), 2 feet 2 inches wide, -with parallel unrebated jambs, and a semicircular head of one -rectangular - -[Illustration: FIG. 119.--Church at Uya. Elevations and Sections.] - -order, with simple unmoulded projections for caps. The arch is formed by -overlapping the stones as in the cells of broughs. At the west end is an -opening 2 feet 6 inches wide, of similar character, except having a -ruder arch and no caps. Above this arch, 6 feet 4 inches in height of -the gable remains. Through this is the west apartment, resembling a -chancel, which is 10 feet east and west by 10 feet 2 inches north and -south, and has walls 2 feet 3 inches thick. - -There is an entrance in the north wall near west end, apparently not -original. The west gable is 9 feet 6 inches high. The eaves appear to -have been 8 feet above the ground. In the south wall of the nave, and -near the west end of it, is a rough stone stoup built into the wall. -(See Fig. 118.) - -This little chapel is a puzzle, and has been mentioned before under -Enhallow, Orkney. Is the apartment in the west original, and if so, what -is it? - -It is in the same position as the adjunct at Enhallow. If original, it -probably was a sacristy. The writer, in taking the plans in 1855, did -not observe on the spot that this adjunct was on the west, which was not -noticed till the plans were laid down at a distance, and no opportunity -has occurred since of minutely inspecting the building. Muir (_Eccles. -Notes_) is incorrect in his plan. - -The east archway (entrance) appears original, yet too small for a -chancel arch. Supposing the adjunct on the west was original, and a -sacristy, and that the east arch is original, it must have been a -chancel arch, and there must have been a chancel, now gone. - -The position of the stoup seems to indicate that the arch from the nave -into the west adjunct is the original west entrance, and that the -adjunct is not original. There are no other church arches in the islands -formed as these are by overlapping stones. - -In the churchyard are some rude crosses, formed of slabs 2½ inches -thick. These were placed upright at the foot or head of graves. One is -about 2 feet high, the limbs of the cross being 7½ inches wide and -pattee. The limbs of another are 8½ inches wide. - - -KIRK OF NESS, NORTH YELL. - -This church is at the north-east angle of Yell, near the base of the -ness bounding Cullavoe. The land is flat hereabouts, and near the sea -level. - -It is the most complete of the old churches of Shetland, and is said to -have been dedicated to Olave or Olaf, the great warrior saint of the -North. It is enclosed in a walled yard about 110 feet by 100 feet. (Fig. -120.) - -It consists of nave and chancel, with bell-cot on the west gable, and -lies nearly true east and west. The roof is gone, but the church was -used down to 1750. (Fig. 121.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 120.--Kirk of Ness. Plan.] - -The material is the grey stone of the district, placed at random, some -of the blocks being very large, and the interstices filled with small -stones. - -The nave is 20 feet 5 inches by 14 feet 10 inches inside. (Fig. 122.) -The west end is 3 feet 6 inches or 3 feet 8 inches thick; the north and -south walls about 3 feet 3 inches. The side walls are 11 feet 10 inches -or 12 feet high from the floor. In the west end is a square-headed -doorway, - -[Illustration: FIG. 121.--Kirk of Ness. View from South-East.] - -2 feet 7 inches wide and 5 feet 4 inches high externally, with -rectangular jambs rebated for a door. (Fig. 123.) The interior width is -3 feet 5 inches. The internal head is also square. Holes for the -insertion of a wooden bar for securing the door remain in the north and -south jambs. In the south wall, and - -[Illustration: FIG. 122.--Kirk of Ness. Plan.] - -close to the west end of it, is another square-headed doorway, -externally 1 foot 9 inches wide, and 5 feet 9 inches high, with internal -head square as of west doorway, and bar-holes as before. (Fig. 124.) In -the north wall is a square-headed window, of which the west side and the -top are gone, owing to the west portion of the north wall having fallen -down. This window is nearer the west than the east angle of the nave. In -the south wall (Fig. 125) is a square-headed window, 3 feet by 1 foot 1 -inch externally, splayed inwards to 3 feet 4 inches by 2 feet 2 inches. -The external angles of the jambs are not chamfered, nor are there -grooves or rebates for glass. (See account of Egilsey.) The top of the -sill is 7 inches above the level of the impost of the chancel arch. This -window is nearer the east than the west angle of the nave, and its -position shows that the south door is original. At 9 feet above the top -of the west - -[Illustration: FIG. 123.--Kirk of Ness. East and West Walls and Chancel -Arch.] - -doorway (inside) is a square-headed window (see Fig. 123), 3 feet by 1 -foot 1 inch externally, splayed inward to 3 feet 2 inches by 2 feet 3 -inches. At 2 feet 2 inches above this (outside) is another opening, 2 -feet 4 inches wide, for a bell. The west face of the bell-cot is 7 feet -10 inches wide. The top is gone, but about 2 feet 3 inches in height of -the jambs remain. The jambs are parallel both ways, and about 1 foot 6 -inches thick from east to west. The ridge of the roof was about 3 feet -higher than the bottom of the opening for the bell, and whether this -opening originally came through to the inside of the church is -doubtful. Possibly this bell-cot is not original. The ridge of the roof -was about 24 feet 7 inches above the floor under the chancel arch. - -The chancel is 13 feet by 11 feet 3 inches inside. The north and south -walls are 3 feet 2 inches, and the east one 3 feet 6 inches thick. The -chancel arch (Figs. 123 and 126) has no projecting jambs, but springs -from - -[Illustration: FIG. 124.--Kirk of Ness. North and South Elevations.] - -the chancel walls at 5 feet 7 inches above the floor, and the feet of -the arch are set 3 inches back on the jambs at the impost, as at Wyre -and Linton in Orkney. (See account of church on Brough of Birsay.) The -spring is 3 inches higher on the south than on the north. There is no -cap. The arch is semicircular, and consists of one rectangular order 3 -feet thick. The stones of the arch average 1 foot 6 inches in length, -but are thin. The top of the gable is 19 feet above the impost. The -abutments of this arch were not sufficient, and the nave and chancel -walls have spread, and a considerable fissure has taken place at the -crown of the arch. In the north wall, at the east corner, is a -square-headed window, 2 feet by 1 foot externally, splayed inward to 2 -feet 5 inches by 2 feet. In the south wall, exactly opposite this -window, is a similar one, 1 foot 7 inches by 1 foot. (See Figs. 124 and -125.) The top of the external opening of this window is 7 inches below -the south impost of the chancel arch. The top of the window on the north -is 3 inches lower than on the south--the same difference as in the two -springs of the chancel arch. In the west angle of the nave and chancel -is a similar window, 1 foot 9 inches - -[Illustration: FIG. 125.--Kirk of Ness.] - -by 1 foot externally, and splayed as the others. This is at a trifle -higher level than the last mentioned window. - -Between these two windows on the south is a sedile (see Fig. 125), 4 -feet 7 inches high by 2 feet 1 inch wide, and 1 foot 8 inches deep, with -a segmental head. The bottom is 1 foot 8 inches above the floor. It is -evident that there was no step in the chancel, and no step at the altar. - -On the north side, a little west of the window, is a square-headed -recess (see Fig. 125), 3 feet 4½ inches by 2 feet, and 1 foot 11 inches -recessed--probably an ambry, possibly an eastern sepulchre. - -In the east gable, at 8 feet 9 inches above the level of the impost of -the chancel arch, is a window about 1 foot 3 inches by 11 inches, -splayed inward. The top of the gable is now 16 feet 9 inches above the -level of the impost of chancel arch, but was originally a little -higher--probably about 23 feet--above the level of the floor at the -chancel arch. - -What is the date of this church? The chancel is larger than of any of -the churches described, and has a sedile and, perhaps, Easter sepulchre. -The chancel arch resembles Egilsey, but is not part of a vault. It has - -[Illustration: FIG. 126.--Kirk of Ness. View of Chancel Arch.] - -the peculiarity at the impost. The doors and windows are flat-headed. -The former have rebates, which is not the primitive form, though Egilsey -has them--the latter have the early form of jambs. Taking all the -points, it may be assigned with probability to the fourteenth century. - -The interior length of the nave is equal to the diagonal of the square -of the width. The length of the chancel is that of an equilateral -triangle on the east end of the nave. The height of chancel walls is -equal to the width of the chancel. - -According to Mr. Irvine there was, a few years ago, a rude cross -gravestone here, like those at Uya. - -A bell, which in 1856 was lying on the shore at Cullyavoe, once hung at -this church. It is said to have been obtained from a wrecked ship, but -is evidently a church bell. It has an inscription in Dutch, and the date -1694. The late Mr. Irvine of Midbrigg had a small bell, said to have -come from this church. It had no inscription. - -Since 1856 the chancel arch and gable over it have fallen. - -The church was surrounded with an enclosing wall. - - -CHURCH AT CULBINSBROUGH, BRESSAY. - -This ruin is on the north-east coast of Bressay, on a small low -promontory. It is enclosed in a “garth” or churchyard, the wall of which -is ruinous, and which appears not to have been used for many years. - -[Illustration: FIG. 127.--Church at Culbinsbrough. Plan.] - -The dedication is not known. It originally consisted of a nave, north -and south transepts, and chancel, and lies about west by north and east -by south. (Fig. 127.) There remain now only the lower portion of the -north transept, lower portions of the chancel, and a small fragment of -the east wall of the south transept. It is built of the grey stone of -the locality in rude courses of moderate-sized stones. On the north side -of the nave, and at the west end, is a modern wall about 3 feet high, -but as this is on the foundation of the original north wall, it is -probable that it marks the extent westward of the old nave. Assuming -this, the nave was 21 feet 6 inches by 10 feet inside. The walls were -probably 2 feet 3 inches thick. The position of the doorway is not -evident, but probably was in the west end. Traces of the south wall -remain. The north transept is 12 feet north and south by 8 feet 6 inches -east and west inside. The north wall is 2 feet 3 inches thick, and the -east and west walls 2 feet thick. The north end is 9 feet high, and -retains the window, which is square-headed (Fig. 128), 1 foot 9 inches -high, and 1 foot 3 inches - -[Illustration: FIG. 128.--Church at Culbinsbrough. East and North -Elevations.] - -wide outside. It is slightly splayed inwards. The sill is 5 feet above -the present ground, but the original level of the floor has not been -ascertained. - -The height of the eaves and of the original apex of gable cannot be -ascertained, but it is probable that the eaves of the whole church were -not more than about 7 feet high, and the ridges of roofs about 12 feet -high. - -The chancel is 6 feet east and west and 10 feet north and south inside. -The walls 2 feet 7 inches to 3 feet thick. About 5 feet 6 inches in -height of the east gable remains. The sill of the east window appears to -have been 4 feet 7 inches above the ground outside--about the same level -as the window in the north transept. The width and height of the east -window cannot be ascertained as the gable is gone. Probably there were -no arches at the cross. The proportion on which it was formed is not -evident; but these proportions may be observed in it. The interior of -the chancel is in the proportion of the vesica piscis. The length of the -north transept is twice that of the chancel, and half that of the nave. -The interior has been used as a burial-place since the disuse of the -church, and two altar tombs remain in the nave. One is without -inscription, but the other is of a Dutch captain who died in 1636. The -inscription is in Dutch. This is the only cross church in Orkney or -Shetland of which any remains exist, and on that account is of -importance. In this churchyard was found, about 1850, a very interesting -tombstone, which has been presented to the Museum of the Society of -Antiquaries of Scotland by the Rev. Dr. Hamilton of Bressay. This stone -stood erect. It is 4 feet high, 1 foot 4½ inches wide at top, and 11 -inches wide at bottom, and 1¾ inch thick. Both faces are ornamented with -carving in low relief. On one face the upper portion contains a square -of interlaced work, within which is a circle containing an interlaced -cross. Below are two dogs, head to head, with their mouths open, and -tails curled over their backs. Below them are two bishops, face to face, -with low mitres, and holding pastoral staves. They resemble the bishops -of the Norse chessmen. On the other face, in the upper part, is a circle -of interlaced work. In the spandrils above it are two nondescript -animals, with their mouths open, apparently eating a man--one the feet, -the other the head. Below the circle are two bishops as on the other -face, between them a man on horseback. Below there is a nondescript -four-legged animal with its tail over its back--possibly a lion or dog. -Other small spaces are filled with interlaced work. On the two edges is -an inscription in Ogham characters, which has been the source of much -discussion; but the stone is somewhat chipped, and the decipherers have -not had a good chance. Amongst many translations is this--on one edge, -“The cross of Natdods daughter here;” on the other edge, “Benres of the -sons of the Druid here.” Probably this stone is of the ninth or -beginning of the tenth century. - - -GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. - -There is no cross church in Orkney, and only one in Shetland. - -In Ireland there is no circular, octagon, or cross church, except, of -course, the cathedrals and some monastic churches. - -There is no aisle in Orkney or Shetland. - -There are no plinths or basements to any of these churches. - -The doors are chiefly in the west ends. Both square and round heads -occur. Several have no rebates. (See Birsay.) St. Ola, Deerness, and -perhaps Uya have no chancels, but all the rest have decided chancels. -There is no instance of a chancel door. Orphir, Egilsey, The Ness, -Culbinsbrough, Norwick, Kirkaby, and Colvidale have or had chancel -arches equal in width to the chancels. In England this fashion rarely -occurs; where it does it is late. It is constructively weak. - -Enhallow has a chancel arch with projecting jambs of about the English -proportion. - -Birsay, Wyre, Linton, perhaps Uya, and probably Noss have or had very -narrow chancel arches. - -In our early churches the chancels were small in comparison with the -naves, and in cathedrals the ritual choir was under the cross or west of -it. - -They elongated the choirs in the thirteenth century, and soon placed the -ritual choir east of the cross. - -Orphir and Egilsey had windows with circular heads. Birsay, Wyre, -Enhallow, and Culbinsbrough had at least some windows with flat heads. -The Ness has all flat. No instance remains of a double light, or of a -transom, or of a triangular head, which is not unfrequent in Ireland. - -At Egilsey, Enhallow, and the Ness are no grooves for glass or rebates, -or external chamfers. At Orphir and Birsay are grooves and chamfers. -(See account of Egilsey.) Of the six churches which retain the east -ends--St. Ola, Orphir, Deerness, Wyre, Egilsey, and the Ness--four have -no east window, except that in the latter there is a small opening high -up in the east gable. In the early Irish churches it is very unusual not -to have an east window. Probably no apse was without an east window. - -As far as can be made out at present, there was no step to the chancel -and no platform for the altar, except the inserted step and altar at -Birsay. In some the chancel windows are singularly low, as at Wyre and -Egilsey. No piscina remains, and only one sedile, but several ambries. - -There are only four cases where we can judge of the pitch of the roofs. -The Ness had a roof including about 85 degrees, Egilsey about 88 -degrees, Enhallow the same, and Wyre about 95 degrees. Probably all had -rude stepped coping on the gables. - - -MONUMENTS. - -The grave stones found in connection with these churches are of four -kinds. - -1. Keel-shaped slabs placed horizontally on graves, as at Sandwick in -Unst, sketched by Mr. Irvine. - -2. Upright stones nearly rectangular, with crosses engraved on them, as -at Sandwick, etched by Mr. Irvine, and at Norwick and some other places. -This class includes the elaborate monument from Culbinsbrough. - -3. The same shaped stones, without any ornamentation, found at many of -the old burial-grounds. - -4. Upright stones cut into the form of crosses, as at Uya. - -Mr. Irvine has sent the following information:--“I believe from the -earliest times in Scotland the foot-stone of the grave was the chief -stone, and not as now the head-stone, and that the east face of the -foot-stone was the principal face to be attended to, from the idea that -the dead rose at the resurrection to an upright position facing east. -Compare the stone with the ancient incised markings from St. Peter’s -Church, Orkney, now in the Edinburgh Museum, with the one I have etched -from Sandwick, Unst, and I believe it will be seen that the keel stone -existed to both. Therefore, I believe that the interment belonging to -many of the standing stones will be found on the west side and not on -the east.” The coffins were often formed of six or more slabs of stone. - - -PROPORTIONS. - -The designs for churches in the ages of architecture were not made at -random. Doubtless there existed certain rules of proportion; but -doubtless they varied with times, places, and persons. - -Various attempts have been made in modern times to discover these rules, -and in some instances with apparent success. It unfortunately happens -that we have not often an intact ground plan, and if the original plan -was simple, the additions render it complex. In many cases these -additions were made without any regard to the proportion of the -original. It appears probable that these proportions were geometric -rather than arithmetical--that is to say, made by simple operations of -the compasses and rulers, rather than by any proportions of numbers. The -small churches of the North are valuable from not having been altered by -additions. - -Though in the foregoing notes the proportions on which the churches were -built may not have been ascertained in all cases, yet in some the -coincidences are too remarkable to be chance. Although, no doubt, a -system of proportions was extended to the elevations and certain -details, yet as to most of these in the churches here enumerated we are -in ignorance, because most of the superstructure is gone. It appears -that there were, in fact, only two figures on which the proportions were -founded--a circle, a square, and an equilateral triangle. For most -purposes of proportion the circle and square are identical. The vesica -piscis is two equilateral triangles on opposite sides of a common base, -and hence equal in proportion to the half of one such triangle. - -There is, however, one proportion in which a square is not equivalent to -a circle--the diagonal of the square the proportion of which to the side -is nearly as 10 to 7. The height or length of an equilateral triangle is -to half its base nearly as 7 to 4. - -All these proportions are somewhat flexible, inasmuch as they may -include the side walls and exclude the end walls, or the reverse; or -they may include both, or they may exclude both; or they may be applied -in one way to the nave, and in another to the chancel, and in another -to the tower. But the proportion must not be deemed as ascertained -unless the figure really fits within 2 or 3 inches. - - -DATES. - -As to the dates of these buildings we have but little to guide us. Only -fragments of the buildings are left, and those of the plainest -description. - -Scotch architecture has some mystifying peculiarities. Dates have been -suggested from architectural and historical evidence for Orphir, Birsay, -and Egilsey. Orphir, 1090-1160; Birsay, 1100; Egilsey, 1000. Wyre has -been assigned to the twelfth or thirteenth, the Ness to the fourteenth, -and St. Ola to the sixteenth century. - -It may be fairly observed that there must have been churches erected in -the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Where are the remains of them? -Possibly some of the ruins described are of those centuries. - -It does not appear impossible that from evidence yet to be collected, a -nearer approximation to the dates of these buildings may be got. - - * * * * * - -As a supplement to the foregoing drawings and descriptions of the ruined -churches of Orkney and Shetland by Sir Henry Dryden, we add an account, -also kindly supplied by Sir Henry, of the chapel at Lybster, in -Caithness, which has a strong affinity to the churches of the Orkneys, -and drawings and description of the chapel on the island of Inch -Kenneth, lying on the south-west of Mull. - - -CHAPEL AT LYBSTER, PARISH OF REAY, CAITHNESS. - -This is not the Lybster on the east coast. - -This chapel (Fig. 129) was stated, in 1726, to be dedicated to St. -Peter. It is described and illustrated by Muir in his _Ecclesiastical -Sketch of Caithness and Orkney_, 1861. He states that it was dedicated -to St. Mary.[135] - -It consists of nave and chancel, both unroofed. (Fig. 130.) Muir, in his -plan, places the chancel to the north of the nave, but it is in the -usual position. - -The nave is 17 feet 10 inches east and west, by 10 feet 11 inches north -and south inside. The north wall of the nave is 3 degrees south of true -west and north of true east, supposing the variation to be 24 degrees -west of north. The walls of the west end and the east end of the nave -are 4 feet 2 inches thick; the north and south walls of the nave are 3 -feet 11 inches thick. The walls are of the whinstone of the district, in -irregular courses, from 3 to 10 inches deep, and “spawled”--that is, -made into courses by smaller stones. The north wall of the nave is 8 -feet high above the present ground level, and is apparently about its -original height. The south wall is partly broken. The west wall is 11 -feet 8 - -[Illustration: FIG. 129.--Chapel at Lybster. View from South-West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 130.--Chapel at Lybster. Plan, South Elevation and -Section.] - -inches, and the east wall 15 feet 2 inches above the present ground. The -latter gable was about 1 foot 6 inches higher than at present, and the -west gable, of course, level with it. I did not ascertain the original -level of the floor, but it must have been at least a foot below the -present ground, so that the total height of the gables was about 16 feet -2 inches. - -[Illustration: FIG. 131.--Chapel at Lybster. West End, Doorway, and -Chancel Entrance.] - -In the west end (Fig. 131) is an entrance 2 feet 3 inches wide at bottom -and 1 foot 9 inches at top. The head is horizontal; the jambs are -parallel, and there is no sign of hinges for a door. The jambs are now 3 -feet 11 inches high. The soffit of the head is flush between the outside -and the inside. Another entrance has been made in the south wall near -the west end, but the wall is broken here, and the form of the head is -uncertain. There is now no trace of a window, but one may have existed -in the place of this doorway. - -The entrance to the chancel is 2 feet 9 inches wide at the bottom and 2 -feet 1 inch at the head, which is flat, like the west entrance. The -chancel is 11 feet 3 inches east and west, by 10 feet 9 inches north and -south inside. The walls are 2 feet 4½ inches on the north and south and -2 feet 7 inches on the east. The walls are about 1 foot lower than the -north wall of the nave. This chancel has been rebuilt, probably on the -old foundation, and is used as a family burying-place. - -There is no trace of an entrance or a window, but I think the wall has -been rebuilt since the disuse of the chapel, so that the original -chancel may have had a window. There is no stoup or ambry. - -Planned 1871. - - -CHAPEL, EFFIGY, AND CROSS ON INCH KENNETH, MULL, ARGYLESHIRE. - -Inch Kenneth is about half a mile across at the mouth of Loch na Keal, -on the west side of Mull. - -The chapel (Fig. 132) adjoins the burial-ground, which is on the -south-east part of the island, and at 50 or 60 feet above the water. - -[Illustration: FIG. 132.--Chapel on Inch Kenneth. View from North-East.] - -The ground falls sharply from the north-east to the south-west. The -burial-ground is on the west of the chapel, and on higher ground. There -is an enclosed burial-place adjoining the south side of the chapel for -the Macleans of Brolas. - -The chapel (Fig. 133) is a plain parallelogram, 40 feet 9 inches east -and west by 19 feet 8 inches north and south inside. It is deflected 10 - -[Illustration: FIG. 133.--Chapel on Inch Kenneth. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 134.--Chapel on Inch Kenneth. Section and North -Elevation.] - -degrees 30 minutes to the north of true east, assuming the magnetic -meridian to be 21 degrees west of true north. - -It is of a light-coloured hard sandstone. It has long been unroofed, and -is mutilated in other parts. - -[Illustration: FIG. 135.--Chapel on Inch Kenneth. Details of Doorway.] - -The doorway (Fig. 134) is in the north wall, near the west end, on the -side sheltered by the hill; but all the freestone has been taken out, -except two stones of the inner order of the east jamb. - -The jambs (Fig. 135) and arch were of two orders. Judging by the remains -of wall it had no hood and no cap. I did not make out whether it had -been a pointed or a half-circular arch, as there is only a small portion -of the masonry fitting the back of the outer order above the west impost -remaining to judge by. Probably pointed. - -The sill of the doorway is covered by rubbish, and the whole of the -interior is covered to about 2 feet depth. I had not opportunity for -excavation. - -The east end (Fig. 136) remains to 15 feet high, a little above the -eaves. The side walls (Fig. 137) are about 12 feet high, and the west -wall remains to a little way up the gable. - -[Illustration: FIG. 136.--Chapel on Inch Kenneth. East End--Exterior and -Interior.] - -The facing of the south wall and the south-west angle have disappeared. -The weakness of foundation and the position of the east end on a steep -slope caused, at some period, the east end to lean outwards - -[Illustration: FIG. 137.--Chapel on Inch Kenneth. South Elevation.] - -considerably; and to obviate further decay, large clasping buttresses -(see Fig. 132) were made at north-east and south-east angles, at some -period much after the building of the chapel, but long ago. - -In the east end are two plain lancets (Fig. 138), 4 feet 8 inches high -and 8¾ inches wide, with wide splays to the inside. - -There is no groove for glass, and so it probably was fixed in a wooden -frame. - -[Illustration: FIG. 138.--Chapel on Inch Kenneth. East Windows.] - -On the north is, near the east end, a square-headed light (Figs. 139, -140), 4 feet 8 inches by 1 foot. It has no glass groove. The internal -head is not now arched, but probably was so at first. - -On the south, and nearly opposite the last, is a light, 4 feet 8 inches -by 9 inches, with a square head and internal arch. (See Fig. 140.) - -Between this and the east wall is a projecting stone with hollow in it, -but no drain. (See Fig. 139.) It is difficult to assign a date to this, -but I think, probably, it is of fourteenth or fifteenth century. - -In the centre of the chapel is a flat tombstone, with floriated -decoration. In the burial-ground is a cross of slate, now prostrate. It -appears of very late date, but has traditional form and ornaments. - -In the burial-place on the south side of chapel is a floriated tombstone -(Fig. 141), also an effigy in relief (Fig. 142). This is 6 feet 7½ -inches long from the top of the cap to the heels. The figure is in -relief of about 4 inches average, flattened on the upper surface, like -many others in that - -[Illustration: FIG. 139.--Chapel on Inch Kenneth. North and South -Windows--Interior.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 140.--Chapel on Inch Kenneth. South-East and North -Windows--Exterior.] - -district, and is in the same stone as the slab, as usual. The slab is 7 -feet 2¼ inches by 2 feet 8 inches, of hard freestone. He has no metal -armour except his skull-cap or morion, which has a raised longitudinal -rib and a narrow brim. The head rests on a simple pillow of 3 inches -relief. He wears a quilted dress reaching to the knees, and over that, -apparently a - -[Illustration: FIG. 141.] - -surcoat. The face has no protection; the hair is long and curly, falling -over the shoulders; he has no beard and no moustache. Below the chin -falls the broad end of a tie (?) of some kind. The right arm, in a -quilted sleeve, is extended by the side, and in the hand is a cannon (?) -ball. Lying over the waist is a circular target, 1 foot in diameter and -2 inches thick, and on this is a shield (presumably to receive the arms -either in sculpture or paint) of 10½ inches width and 1¼ inch -thickness. - -The legs are in close-fitting hose, or perhaps bare, and the junction of -the boots is not shown. The feet rest against a lion or dog. He has a -waist-belt, from which depends a long, broad, straight sword, of equal -width to the end. The upper part of the scabbard and the guard are - -[Illustration: FIG. 142.] - -concealed by the target. The left arm holds the target, and is therefore -partly concealed by it. Dependent from the belt at the right hip is the -dirk. On each side of the head is a figure 10¼ inches high, much worn, -in a loose cloak, and in the attitude of prayer. These may represent -children or professional mourners. - -It is possible that the shield which is in relief on the target is to -represent a metal or a wooden plate fastened to the target. - -It is likely that the cannon ball is a memorial of some incident. - - * * * * * - -Sir Henry Dryden, in reading over the foregoing description of the -Orkney and Shetland churches after they were arranged in type, has -requested the following note to be inserted:-- - - -_Note by Sir Henry Dryden._ - -All the plans and sections are much reduced from the originals; -therefore, the _statements_ of the scales are not true, but the scales -given are correct, having been reduced with the plans. - -Of the original drawings, some general plans are to the scale of ½ an -inch to 40 feet, and ½ an inch to 10 feet. All the chapels are to the -scale of ⅜ of an inch to 2 feet, doors and windows ⅜ to 6 inches, and -mouldings ⅜ to 3 inches. - -The elevations in the originals are tinted with sepia, and have no -masonry indicated. The artist who has prepared these reductions has -indicated the masonry, but has made it much too regular, both in courses -and size of stones. - -The drawing here shown is a more accurate representation of the general -style of the masonry. - -[Illustration] - -The degrees and minutes prefixed to arrows are the readings of a -prismatic compass, with 360 degrees at south, 90 degrees at west, and so -on. All were taken west to east and east to west. - -[Illustration] - - - - -TRANSITION FROM CELTIC TO NORMAN ARCHITECTURE. - - -Having in the preceding chapters dealt with the churches in Scotland -which may be regarded as of Celtic descent, we now turn to those in -which the Roman or Norman influence begins to make itself apparent. - -A few structures exist in Scotland in which both the Celtic and Norman -influences can be traced, and which are interesting as examples of the -transition from the one style to the other. We have noted in the -foregoing descriptions the gradual introduction in the later Celtic -churches of features characteristic of Norman work, such as round arched -openings and upright jambs, not to mention the pointed and more advanced -details of later examples. But the gradual approach of Norman -architecture, and its encroachment on the Celtic forms, is more -particularly noticeable in some of the early towers in the East of -Scotland. In that part of the country of which the Frith of Tay forms -the centre, and which was then the central region of Pictavia, there -exists a series of early ecclesiastical towers, eight in number. Six of -these towers are situated south of the Tay--three of them being on the -south side of the Ochil Hills, and three on the north side. Those on the -south side are the tower of St. Regulus at St. Andrews and the towers at -Markinch and Dunblane; while the towers on the north side of the Ochils -are at Abernethy, Muthill, and Dunning. The towers on the north side of -the Tay are those at Brechin and Restennet. These places are all known -to have been the sites of Culdee establishments, which were ultimately -absorbed into the Roman system. - -The towers of Abernethy and Brechin are round towers, similar in design -to the round towers of Ireland.[136] These two towers contain many -features which indicate their Irish derivation, while one of them--that -at Abernethy--shows the impress of the Norman influence in its details. - -The other towers above mentioned (which are described under their -respective heads) are all square in plan; but that of Restennet shows -considerable affinity with Celtic modes of construction. The Church of -St. Regulus probably marks the next step in the Norman advance, while -the remaining towers, although simple in details, are quite distinctly -Norman in their features. - -The Round Tower of Brechin is the one which approaches most nearly to -the Celtic or Irish forms. Its masonry is built with large stones, but -they are not laid in regular courses. The doorway is some feet above the -ground, and is ornamented with details quite Irish in character. This -tower will be more fully described under the head of Brechin Cathedral. - - -ABERNETHY ROUND TOWER, PERTHSHIRE. - -This remarkable edifice stands on the south-west side of the Churchyard -of Abernethy, a small town situated at some distance from the south side -of the Tay, and about three miles west from Newburgh. There can be no -doubt that this peculiar form of round tower owes its existence to the -presence of the Irish clergy, who returned to Scotland in the ninth -century.[137] Abernethy was distinguished as an ecclesiastical site at a -very early date, a church having been founded here in the sixth century -by King Gastnaid[138] in honour of St. Bridget. Abernethy was then, and -for a long period thereafter, the chief seat of the Government of -Pictland. In the ninth century, Constantin, the son of Kenneth M‘Alpine, -removed the see of the Scottish Bishopric from Dunkeld to Abernethy, -where it remained till transferred by Kenneth III., 966-970, to St. -Andrews. - -[Illustration: FIG. 143.--Abernethy Tower. Plans.] - -The monastery at Abernethy was in the hands of a Culdee establishment in -the eleventh century, but about 1200 the church was granted by William -the Lion to his favourite Abbey of Arbroath, and the Abbey was -secularised. In 1272, the monastery was revived as a Priory of Canons -regular of St. Augustine. - -The once important place of Abernethy has now dwindled into a small -quiet country town, of which the ancient Round Tower is the only -important feature. - -The tower stands partly within the churchyard and partly without it, on -the east side of the adjoining roadway, and the level of the ground on -the side next the latter is two or three feet deeper than that of the -churchyard. The doorway (Fig. 143) is situated on the north side of the -tower and within the burial-ground. It stands (Fig. 144) about 2 feet 6 -inches above the ground, and has had in recent times a few steps built -in front of it. The doorway has a plain fillet, 6 inches broad and -projecting 2 inches, wrought on the jambs and round the circular arched -head. It is 7 feet 8 inches from the sill to the crown of the arch. The -jambs incline inwards, the opening being 2 feet 8 inches at the base, -and 2 feet 4 inches at the spring of the arch. The round head is -hollowed out of a single stone, and the thickness of the wall behind it -is arched with several voussoirs. The jambs are each in two stones, -which extend through the thickness of the wall. The wall is 3 feet 6 -inches thick at the doorway, and the internal diameter of the tower at -that level is 8 feet 2 inches. - -The structure is over 72 feet in height, and is divided in the interior -into six stories in the height by projecting string courses, 10 inches -by 8 inches, bevelled on the lower side, which carried the joists. There -was no staircase, access from floor to floor being by means of ladders. -The second, third, and fourth stories are lighted by means of small -round-headed and angle-headed windows, with inclined jambs. - -The top story has four large windows facing the cardinal points. These -windows are the most remarkable features of the edifice. - -The openings have inclined jambs, being 1 foot 8 inches at base and 1 -foot 5 inches at top, and the height from the sill to the springing is 4 -feet 9 inches. Each window has two orders on the exterior--a plain inner -order and an outer order, containing a shaft wrought on the jamb angle. -The inner order has plain square-edged jambs and round arch. The outer -order has also a square-edged round arch, springing from the caps of the -shafts. This arch, however, is not concentric with the inner arch, but -is carried considerably above it, leaving a flat space or shield between -the arches. The caps and bases of the shafts are now much decayed, but -they have a distinctly Norman character. - -Above the highest string course the wall rises about two feet, so as to -form a parapet. The diameter within this wall is 8 feet 8 inches, and -the wall is about 2 feet 6 inches thick. The top of the wall is covered -with broad stones, each the full width, which have an ogee moulding -wrought on the outer edge. - -The masonry of the tower is constructed in regular courses of ashlar -work, carefully wrought to the circle. The lower twelve courses are of a -hard grey freestone, and the portion above consists of a yellowish -freestone of similar workmanship, which is softer, and has decayed -considerably both on the exterior and interior. This difference in the -materials of the lower and upper portions has led to the belief that the -upper part has been rebuilt at a later date than the lower part. - -[Illustration: FIG. 114.--Abernethy Tower. View from North-East.] - -The tower is slightly less in diameter at the top than at the bottom, -but it tapers so little that the difference is scarcely observable. - -In this tower we find features which belong both to the Celtic and -Norman styles of building. The circular form of the tower and the -disposition of its parts, the door raised some feet above the ground, -the small windows in the lower stories, the four large windows in the -top story, and the inclining jambs of door and windows, all point to the -Irish origin of the design; while the distinctly Norman character of the -details of the four upper windows, and the regular coursing and dressing -of the masonry, show the influence of the Continental style of the -twelfth century. - - -RESTENNET PRIORY, FORFARSHIRE. - -The remaining towers of the group above enumerated are all square on -plan, and certain of them are connected with churches, and form a part -of them. In these respects, therefore, they differ considerably from the -towers of Abernethy and Brechin. They were all probably built during the -twelfth century. Possibly Restennet is an exception. It is the only one -of the square towers which has very marked features of a pre-Norman -character. The outside dimensions of the Tower of Restennet (Fig. 145) -are 15 feet 11 inches from north to south by 15 feet 6 inches from east -to west, and the walls are 2 feet 8 inches in thickness. - -There is, on the ground level of the tower, a narrow doorway in the -south side, and a wide archway into the church through the east wall. -There is also a wide archway in the west wall, opening into what has -been a nave, added at a later date; but this opening appears to have -been cut through at a late period. - -The south doorway (Fig. 146) is 2 feet 4 inches wide by about 8 feet -high. The soffit of the arch is cut out of single stones. The style of -masonry used in the construction of the doorway is peculiar. The -thickness of the wall is made up of three courses, the two outer ones -being large slabs set on edge, and the interior course being built with -smaller stones from a different quarry. The latter are of red and the -former of grey sandstone. The outer and inner stones forming the lintel -are hollowed out with a semi-circular arch opening. Round the exterior -of the doorway there is a raised margin, about eight inches in breadth, -with small projection, similar to the margin of the door at Abernethy. -Except this ancient feature, there is no other attempt at decoration. - -The arch in the east wall (Fig. 147) is 8 feet 4 inches wide, and is -stated by Mr. Galloway[139] to have been 15 feet 8 inches high from the -original floor level to the soffit. The space comprised within the -tower - -[Illustration: FIG. 145.--Restennet Priory. Plan.] - -was by this archway included in the original church, which opened into -it exactly like the archway of the tower at Dunning Church (_q.v._), -compared with which, however, this opening has a very archaic -appearance. - -[Illustration: FIG. 146.--Restennet Priory. South Doorway of Tower.] - -There are no floors in the tower, and no stair or means of access to the -upper story, and the tower stands open from the ground to the apex of -the spire. - -Above the arches just described, the tower contains two stories (Fig. -148). In the first story there is a small opening on the east side, -about 1 foot 8 inches wide and 4 feet 8 inches high, contained within -the space of the choir roof; and on the south side there is another -opening, about half this size. A small round opening, a few inches wide, -in the west wall (Fig. 149) completes the lights on this story. The -highest story, which is separated from the one below by a string course, -contains an opening with a straight-sided arch on each face, and each of -these openings has an external back-set fillet or margin. - -How the tower was originally finished it is now impossible to say; but -the string course above the second story is the present termination of -the original work. The tower has a decided taper of about two feet in -the height. - -The building above the second story is probably a work of the fifteenth -century, but there appears to be no written account of the erection of -the spire. With the exception of the tower, no part of the original -Church of Restennet remains, but a fragment of a return wall at the base -of the south-east angle of the tower shows that it was connected with -some building. - -The existing ruin (see Fig. 145) consists of a choir to the east of the -tower. The south wall of this choir probably occupies the original -position of the south wall of the ancient church. Assuming that the -tower was in the centre of the west wall of the choir, the original -church would be about 14 feet wide, and possibly entered through the -tower by the narrow doorway in the south side. - -The present choir is a first-pointed structure. It is roofless, but -otherwise fairly entire, and measures about 67 feet long by 21 feet 6 -inches wide internally. A part of the centre of the north wall appears -to have been taken down and rebuilt at a late period. In a plan of the -priory, made by Dr. Jamieson of Forfar, and preserved in the Hutton -Collection (Advocates’ Library), the church is shown as being ruinous in -1796. The restoration which has since then taken place probably -accounts for the absence of the buttresses and of the hood mouldings of -two of the rebuilt lancet windows on the north side (see Figs. 148 and -149). On the south side the buttresses have all been pulled down, but -otherwise the wall remains intact, with first-pointed corbels along the -top of the wall. In the east wall, the apex of which is gone (Fig. 150), -there were - -[Illustration:[140]FIG. 147.--Restennet Priory. Archway in East Wall of -Tower.] - -three lancet windows, which had banded nook shafts in the interior, and -a simple splay externally. At the east end, on the south side, there is -a piscina (Fig. 151), a sedilia recess, a locker, and a tomb of late -work. On the north side there has been a similar recessed tomb, now -built up. The font shown in Fig. 152 is lying inside the choir, but its -base is gone. It measures 2 feet 4 inches in external width by 1 foot 9 -inches inside, and 18 inches high, with a square hole in the centre. It -appears to be of late date. - -The east wall has angle pilaster buttresses, with scarcely any -projection to the east, but having a few inches projection to the north -and - -[Illustration: FIG. 148.--Restennet Priory. View from North-East.] - -south respectively. The south wall of the church appears, from a return -and tuskings at the east end, to have continued further eastwards. In -the south wall, adjoining the tower, there is a plain, round, arched -doorway. As will be seen from the plan, the present choir is not in the -line of the centre of the tower. Probably the existence of earlier -monastic buildings on the south side may have prevented extension in -that direction; and so, in order to get the width required for the new -choir, it was necessary to extend the building northwards. From the -presence of the sloping skew recess on the west face of the tower, it is -obvious that the nave, which now no longer exists, and is only indicated -by this roof mark, was built nearly in continuation of the walls of the -choir. In Dr. Jamieson’s time, when the foundations of the nave existed, -it was so, and is shown in his drawings running westwards to the west -wall of the cloister, a distance of about 59 feet. The plan shows that -the west enclosing wall is broken off just at the point where the west -wall of the nave joined it. - -[Illustration: FIG. 149.--Restennet Priory. View from North-West.] - -On the south side of the tower and choir there are raglets, indicating -where the monastic buildings have abutted against them. Of these -buildings all that exist are the boundary walls, shown on plan. These -contain a doorway to the south, and another to the west. They are quite -plain, with segmental arched heads. In front of the west door lies a -flat tombstone, probably - -[Illustration: FIG. 150.--Restennet Priory. Interior of East End.] - -the one referred to by Dr. Jamieson as being dated 1553. Dr. Jamieson -further mentions that the courtyard was paved, and that the present -trees and shrubs, which encumber and confuse the place, are recent. In -describing the situation of the priory, he says that it stands on ground -which “juts out into a lake, or loch, of the same name. This, although -now drained in part, has nearly surrounded it. There is a small neck on -the west, where it is said there was a deep ditch and a drawbridge.” - -[Illustration: FIG. 151.--Restennet Priory. Piscina.] - -The date of the foundation of the priory is not known, but it is -recorded that David I. granted to the Prior and Canons 20s. yearly from -the rents of the burgh of Monros, as well as the teinds of these -rents.[141] The monastery was dedicated to St. Peter, and was of the -Order of St. Augustine. Between 1159 and 1163 it was attached to -Jedburgh by Malcolm IV. - -After the Reformation, it continued to be the parish church of Forfar, -where, says Dr. Jamieson, there was only a private chapel, “an aisle of -the old church, till it was pulled down a few weeks ago, as they are -about to build a new church.” - -[Illustration: FIG. 152.--Restennet Priory. Font.] - -Further particulars of the history of Restennet, and of its early Celtic -importance, with a very minute and illustrated description, will be -found in the _Archæologia Scotica_, Vol. V., Part 2. There can be no -doubt of the great antiquity of the tower; and, as pointed out by Mr. -Galloway in the above paper, its features associate it with Irish -architecture. It may, therefore, be classed along with the towers of -Abernethy and Brechin; but it is of a ruder, and possibly earlier, type -than they are. - - -ST. REGULUS’, OR ST. RULE’S, ST. ANDREWS, FIFESHIRE. - -This remarkable edifice stands in the ancient churchyard at a distance -of fully 100 feet south-east from the Cathedral of St. Andrews (_q.v._) -St. Regulus’ was, doubtless, the Cathedral Church of St. Andrews before -the edifice, afterwards constructed as the Cathedral, and now ruinous, -existed. - -The early occupation of the site of St. Andrews for religious purposes -is referred to in the Introduction.[142] Cellach was the first Bishop of -St. Andrews, about the beginning of the tenth century. He was succeeded -by ten Culdee Bishops, the last of whom was Fodath, who performed the -ceremony of the marriage of Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret. The -settlement of the Culdees became broken up and partly secularised, and -under Bishop Robert (1121-59) Canons regular were introduced in 1144, -who gradually absorbed the Culdees into their community. - -Dr. Joseph Robertson[143] states it as his opinion that “no one -acquainted with the progress of architecture, who diligently peruses the -_Historia B. Reguli et Fundationis Ecclesiæ S. Andreæ_, will have much -difficulty in identifying the building [of St. Regulus] with the small -‘basilica’ reared by Bishop Robert, an English Canon regular of the -Order of St. Augustine, between the years 1127 and 1144.” Robert, Prior -of Scone, was elected Bishop in the reign of Alexander I., but was not -consecrated till the reign of David I., in 1138. The passage, referred -to by Dr. Robertson is as follows:-- - -“But before the newly-elected Bishop (Robert, Prior of Scone) was -consecrated, King Alexander, who was now in his last illness, left his -sole surviving brother, King David (who now is), heir both of the -kingdom and of his devotion to the Church and his care of the poor. The -undertakings of his late brother he endeavours to carry to completion. -He has founded many monasteries for monks, canons, and nuns, and on -these he has bestowed many benefactions; while to the servants and -handmaids of Christ themselves he has done many acts of kindness, on -which we cannot here enlarge. He obtained that the Bishop of St. -Andrews, Robert, already mentioned, was consecrated by Thurstan, -Archbishop of York. This being done, Robert returned to his see, and - -[Illustration: FIG. 153.--St. Regulus Church. Plan.[144]] - -proceeded to put in practice what he had in his view--viz., the -enlargement of his church, and its dedication to divine service. On this -work he expended the seventh part of the altar dues which fell to him, -reserving them for his own use. But inasmuch as the outlay was small, -the building made correspondingly small progress, until, by the Divine -favour and the influence of the King, offerings flowed in, and the work -went on apace. The basilica was thus founded, and in great part -constructed.”--_Chronicles of the Picts and Scots_, p. 191. - -There can be little doubt that the building still surviving is the -basilica of Bishop Robert. Its architectural features correspond with -his date, and there is no other structure to which the above notice -would apply. The similarity of St. Regulus’ in many points to the early -churches of Northumbria has already been adverted to.[145] - -The edifice (Fig. 153) consists of a chamber 26 feet long and 19 feet 10 -inches wide internally, with walls about 34 feet high. The great height -of the building, as compared with its width and length, is one of the -points which connect it with the pre-Norman structures of Northumbria. -There appears to have been an eastern apse, of which only portions of -the foundations next the main structure now remain. A lofty square tower -(Fig. 154) at the west end of the oblong chamber is the most striking -feature of the building. It is about 110 feet high, and measures about -21 feet 4 inches square over the walls. - -[Illustration: FIG. 154.--St. Regulus’. West Side of Tower.] - -At the east end of the main building a lofty archway (Fig. 155) opens -towards what was probably the apse. The opening is 9 feet wide by - -[Illustration: FIG. 155.--St. Regulus’. View from South-East.] - -25 feet 6 inches high. Each jamb has three attached shafts (Fig. 156), -with somewhat rude caps and bases, and bold mouldings in the arch. The -existence of this archway clearly indicates that there was a building -towards the east of it, and we have no doubt that it was an apse; while -the main building was the chancel, and the nave stood (as will be shown) -to the west of the tower. - -The tower is pierced with an archway in each of its east and west walls. -The lower part of the west wall of the tower projects about 2 feet 2 -inches on each side beyond the side walls, with a breadth of about 2 -feet 5 inches, and finishes upwards in a roughly-tapering form at the -level of the top of the western arch. (See Fig. 154.) These projecting -portions of wall have somewhat the appearance of side buttresses to the -tower, but they are more like the remains of the east wall of a nave, -which now no longer exists. They have not the character of -originally-built early buttresses, but have rather that of the remains -of projecting walls, dressed up at a later period. Besides, it is a -characteristic of the structure that it has no buttresses flanking the -other arches. There is observable on the west face of the tower the mark -of a roof. This mark, if produced on each side to about the level of the -top of the chancel walls, would indicate the roof of a nave about ten or -twelve feet wider than the tower. There seems to be no other way of -explaining the mark of the roof and the projecting portions of the side -walls except by supposing that there was at one time a nave to the west -of the tower. This would also give a reason for the existence of the - -[Illustration: FIG. 156.--St. Regulus’. Details of East Arch.] - -east and west arches in the tower, which otherwise are somewhat -unintelligible. - -The arch opening from the chancel to the tower is 9 feet 10 inches wide -by 27 feet high, and is of a plainer description than the apse archway. - -[Illustration: FIG. 157.--St. Regulus’. Arch Moulding of West Arch of -Tower.] - -The jambs have a square recess or nook on each face of the wall with a -shaft in each recess; and the arch above is quite plain, with square -edges. The western arch, from the tower into the supposed nave, is shown -in Fig. 154. It is 10 feet 4 inches wide by 28 feet high. Both of the -archways in the tower are now built up. The moulding of the west arch, -as far as visible, is shown in Fig. 157. The capitals of all the shafts -are rather shapeless and clumsy, but the necking and arch mouldings are -of good design. The arches are all slightly of the horse-shoe form. - -The three-arched openings above described are all of about the same -dimensions, and as the two eastern ones cannot be called doorways, so -neither can the western one be considered as merely the entrance doorway -to the church, but would rather appear to be the arched opening from the -nave into the tower and chancel. When we consider that this church was -once a cathedral, as well as the church of a monastery, and also, -perhaps, served the purpose of a parish church, it seems probable that -it must have been a larger building than the simple oblong chamber to -the east of the tower which now survives. Considerable discussion has -taken place with reference to the probable arrangement of the plan. Some -have supposed that the church consisted of the simple oblong chamber -which still exists, with an eastern apse and western tower; while others -maintain that the existing oblong was the choir, that there was a -western nave, and that the tower was central. Sir G. Gilbert Scott -points out that in the latter case St. Regulus’ would be parallel to -Jarrow Church, while in the former case the church may have had a lofty -western porch, as had those of Wearmouth and Barton-upon-Humber. Sir -Gilbert, however, thinks that the large size of the western arch, and -the mark of - -[Illustration: FIG. 158.--St. Regulus. Belfry Window.] - -the roof on the tower, suggest a nave.[146] The seals of the church, -dated 1204 and 1214, which are preserved at Durham, show a nave and -chancel. - -The chancel is lighted by four windows, two on each side, placed at -about 14 feet above the ground. (See Fig. 155.) They are round headed, -the circles being cut out of a single stone on the outside, but arched -on the inside. The openings are 6 feet 6 inches high and 1 foot 10 -inches wide, and have broad splays internally. - - -The building has a cornice at the wall-head, containing a series of -simple corbels. A string course runs round the tower below the top -story, and above it there is a belfry window on each face, about 3 feet -wide by 8 feet 9 inches high. Each window is divided into two openings -by a rounded centre shaft (Fig. 158), and there were round nook shafts -at each side, but these have now fallen away. There are a few small -openings on each face at different stages. The tower is crowned with a -cornice, having two rows of simple corbels similar to those of the -chancel cornice. On the east side there is an opening into the space -which was covered by the chancel roof. The floors of the tower have been -of timber, and there is one set-off in the inside of about 6 inches, at -a height of about 64 feet. There was no access stair. At the north-west -corner of the chancel, and at the wall-head level, there are two caps -which have a very distinct appearance of being of first pointed date. - - - - -NORMAN ARCHITECTURE. - - -A general description of the features which distinguish this style of -architecture has been given in the Introduction,[147] together with a -short summary of the Scottish structures in the Norman style.[148] The -more minute features will be referred to in the descriptions of the -various churches. It may, however, be pointed out that few structures -survive in Scotland which exhibit elevations of façades, such as the -east and west fronts of churches, or the north and south façades of -transepts, which show the true Norman character. In all Norman churches -of any importance in other countries the façades forming the end -elevations in the above positions are composed of several stories, piled -up one above the other. (See Fig. 17.) In the later styles, the design -of the façade is generally composed of one predominating feature, such -as a large traceried window, or a series of lofty lancets (like the Five -Sisters of York), rising above a single lower story, which generally -contains a doorway. But in Norman architecture the façades are usually -divided up into a series of stories, one over the other--an arrangement -which, to a certain extent, fails to give the impression of one large -structure, such as is conveyed in the façades of the later Gothic -styles. - -In Scotland proper there is only one building of magnitude in which this -storied style is preserved--viz., the Abbey Church of Kelso. The same -features may, however, be still observed in the façades of the transepts -of Kirkwall Cathedral, Orkney. At St. Andrews Cathedral the original -storied Norman east end was subsequently altered. In other large Norman -churches, such as Dunfermline Abbey, the façades have been removed or -altered. The smaller churches in the Norman style are not of sufficient -height to give expression to this peculiarity. - -It has been shown in the preceding chapter that some of our early Celtic -structures were transitional, and contained some signs of the approach -of the Norman style; but after its introduction, in the twelfth century, -that style at once became universal in the civilised parts of the -country, and all the churches of that date of which any portions survive -were erected in accordance with the Norman fashion. It has been often -remarked that the twelfth century was the great church-building epoch in -Scotland, as elsewhere, and the number of these Norman edifices still -traceable in the south and east of the country is very large. - -The parish churches are generally small and aisleless, most of them -being single oblong chambers, with an eastern chancel, sometimes with an -eastern apse, and occasionally there was a western tower. St. Nicholas’, -Aberdeen, was cruciform, and had a central tower. - -During the Norman period monasticism prevailed, and almost all the large -churches were conventual. These churches were always designed on the -cruciform plan, and contained choir, nave, and north and south transept, -each portion having side aisles, and the transepts usually only an -eastern aisle. The small churches and side aisles were frequently -vaulted, but the large churches appear to have been designed for wooden -roofs. - -The details and ornaments of the style are often very elaborate, and -invariably correspond with those in use in England at, or rather earlier -than, the corresponding period. In the early examples, the design was -very simple, and ornament was sparingly used; but as time advanced the -style was gradually enriched, until towards the close of the period the -ornament became very elaborate, especially in the arched heads of -doorways, as at Kelso, Jedburgh, and Dunfermline. - -A common feature in Norman buildings was an arcade running round the -walls below the windows. Almost every Norman structure of importance in -Scotland contains this arcade, either in the interior or exterior, or -both, and the caps and arches are generally elaborately and richly -carved with ornaments. Here, and generally throughout Norman structures, -the chevron or zig-zag enrichment is a characteristic feature. The other -enrichments of the period in other countries consist of the billet, the -bird’s beak, faceted sinkings, grotesque heads, rosettes, &c., all of -which are found in the Scottish examples. The doorways are generally the -points where the carving is richest, and it naturally followed that the -doorways are often preserved where the other parts of the buildings are -altered or rebuilt. The windows are always single, and simple in -details. - -Some of the towers above enumerated are amongst the earliest examples of -Norman work which survive. They contain some reminiscences of the early -defensive purpose of such structures. They are extremely simple in -design, being square on plan, and carried up, without break or buttress, -to the parapet, where they were finished with a gabled roof, forming the -saddleback arrangement still preserved in the tower at Muthill. - -The only break in the height is formed by string courses, which mark the -unequal stories. A small wheel stair usually leads to the top. The -doorway in some instances is placed several feet above the ground. - -Amongst these towers are to be found most of the small fragments which -still survive of the extensive building works encouraged by David I. in -the first half of the twelfth century. - -In the following descriptions the churches are arranged, as far as -possible, in the order of their probable dates, commencing with the -oldest and simplest, and continuing with the later and more elaborate -examples. - - -MARKINCH TOWER, FIFESHIRE. - -The Church and Churchyard of Markinch stand on the top of a small hill, -round the base of which lie the houses of the town. The church and its -Norman tower are thus conspicuous objects as seen from the railway in -approaching from Kirkcaldy, which is about seven miles distant to the -southward. The inch, or island, is believed to have derived its name -from having been formerly surrounded by a marsh. - -[Illustration: FIG. 159.--Markinch Church Tower. Plans and Details.] - -A church was consecrated here in 1243, and dedicated to Saints John -Baptist and Modrest. There was at one time a Culdee cell in this -locality, but afterwards the church belonged to the Priory of St. -Andrews. - -The only part of the original structure which survives is the tower, -which is undoubtedly an ancient Norman building. - -It is nearly square on plan (Fig. 159), being 16 feet from north to -south by 17 feet from east to west. The tower rises (Fig. 160) without a -break (except a string course at each floor) to the height of four -stories, - -[Illustration: FIG. 160.--Markinch Tower. From South-West.] - -or 73 feet to the top of the parapet. The original entrance (Fig. 161) -is by a door, two feet wide, at the north-west angle. The sill is now -about two feet above the ground, but it doubtless stood several feet -higher originally. From the doorway a wheel stair leads to the upper -floors. The stair and upper floors were lighted by small windows, with -round heads. These are now built up, except one in the south side, which -has been changed into a trefoil head. The top story is lighted by a -window in each face. Each of these windows (see Fig. 159) consists of -two openings, divided by a central shaft. On the exterior each opening -is arched, with a small semi-circular arch, cut out of one stone; but in -the interior both openings are spanned by one arch. The arrangement of -the shafts is peculiar, the central shaft being placed so as to be in -the centre of the abacus which carries the small arches, while the side -shafts are wrought upon the angles of the jambs, and do not stand in the -same plane as the central shaft. The caps are Norman, of the usual -cushion form, with heavy abacus; but they and the bases are now much -decayed. - -The original mode of finishing the tower is now matter of conjecture, -but it was doubtless (as stated by Mr. Muir) finished with a saddleback -or gabled roof. It is now terminated with a modern cornice, above which -a heavy modern spire has been erected, the top story being domed in -order to carry the spire. - -[Illustration: FIG. 161.--Markinch Tower. From North-East.] - -The top story is slightly diminished in size, and is set back over the -string course. The lower string courses are of three-sided section, and -have been carved with the ordinary Norman enrichment of the lozenge -(see Fig. 161). These are now nearly wasted away. The church attached to -the tower is entirely modern, and a modern doorway of entrance has been -cut through the tower. - - -MUTHILL CHURCH, PERTHSHIRE. - -The parish of Muthill lies about three miles south of Crieff. The -ancient church, with its venerable tower, remained entire and in use as -the parish church till about the year 1818, when, unfortunately, it was -abandoned for a new building erected about that time. We are enabled to -give a view[149] of the old church (Fig. 162), made by John Claude -Nattes about the year 1799, from which it will be seen how eminently -picturesque the old structure was, and how deplorable is the ruin which -has overtaken it in the last half-century.[150] - -The church (Fig. 163) consisted of the ancient square tower at the west -end, with a nave having north and south aisles, and an aisleless choir. -The tower is one of the best preserved of the Norman towers in Scotland. -It is nearly square on plan, and measures about 15 feet 3 inches on each -side, with walls about 3 feet 2 inches thick. It has two offsets (Fig. -164) on the outside of the two upper stories, and a string course above -the lower stage. This string course is of the usual Norman section, and -is ornamented with the lozenge pattern, except on the east face, where -it is plain. The walls are built plumb inside, with neither corbels nor -projecting courses to carry floors. The tower is about 51 feet 3 inches -high from the ground to the eaves, and about 16 feet 6 inches more to -the apex of the gables. The latter, with their crow-steps, doubtless -belong to a late period; but they probably represent the original mode -of termination of the tower. The roof must be at least some centuries -old. It is constructed with timbers about seven inches square, in the -manner shown on section (Fig. 165); they are fixed together with wooden -pins. With slight repairs and attention, which it greatly - -[Illustration: FIG. 162.--Muthill Church. From South-East. (From Sketch -by Nattes, about 1799.)] - -requires, the roof would last for generations to come. We may remark -that several cracks in the masonry, which were very conspicuous when we -sketched the tower about fifteen years ago, have now been filled up. - -The belfry stage has an opening in each face. Those on the west and -north sides (see Fig. 164) consist of large arches, each containing two -smaller ones. They are alike, and measure about 3 feet 5 inches wide on -the inside by about 5 feet 10 inches high to top of large arch, and -about 4 feet 2 inches of daylight. They are divided with a central -octagonal shaft, with round responds set well back in the wall. The -shafts have all cushion capitals, those of the responds being slightly -higher than those of the central shafts. The arches springing from these -caps are very rudely formed. Each of these two windows is wider at the -springing of the arch - -[Illustration: FIG. 163.--Muthill Church. Plan.] - -than at the base by about 2½ inches, and the responds taper even more. -The latter have no bases, while the centre shafts have only the merest -fillet. The south window (Fig. 166) has a square lintel. It is about 3 -feet 8½ inches wide by 4 feet 1½ inch high, and has no taper. The -opening is divided by a mullion, placed flush with the outer face of the -wall. The east window is a single light, about 1 foot 7 inches wide -inside, increasing by 2 inches to the outside. It is 3 feet 11 inches -high, and is 2 inches wider at the lintel than at the base. We have -minutely described these windows, as they are peculiar in their -differences, and are undoubtedly original. We know of no reason why the -north and west ones should be so much more ornamental than the other -two. - -This tower appears to have stood quite isolated, like that of Dunblane -Cathedral. There is nothing to indicate that it was attached to any -building. There are no roof ragglets, but only the faintest mark caused -by the pointing where the roof of the present ruin joined the walls. -What position the tower occupied in regard to the early church, which - -[Illustration: FIG. 164.--Muthill Church. View of Tower from -North-West.] - -doubtless stood here, cannot now be ascertained. There seems to have -been a doorway on the west face of the ground floor (see Fig. 164), -about 4 feet wide, formed with a flat arch about 7 feet 6 inches above -the present level of the ground; but it is doubtful if the door came to -the level of the ground, which seems to have been raised in the course -of centuries. A door opened into the church on the east side of the -tower. It is about 3 feet wide by 6 feet 2 inches high, and has also a -flat arch; but it is not easy to say whether these doors are original or -are insertions. In the basement floor on the north and south sides there -is a square-headed window, about 7 or 8 feet above the floor. The one on -the north side is 12 inches wide by about 1 foot 10 inches high, and is -divided by a mullion placed similarly to that in the south belfry -window. - -From the foregoing description, it seems not unlikely that the same -ideas which prevailed with the builders of the round towers actuated the -men who built this one. It probably contained the bells, and was used as -a place of safety detached from the church. - -The tower is enclosed on three sides by the church. From the east face -of the tower the nave measures 46 feet 1 inch in length, and, including -the tower, the central aisle of the nave measures 58 feet 10 inches in -length by 20 feet 6 inches in width, and the total width inside, -including the aisles, is 45 feet 5 inches. The total length of the -church inside, including the chancel, is 105 feet 5 inches, and the -width of the chancel is 16 feet. - -[Illustration: FIG. 165.--Muthill Church. Plan and Section of Top Story -of Tower.] - -The walls of the main nave are wider than the tower. The south aisle -(see Fig. 166) is divided into three bays, and the north aisle into two -bays. The piers are octagonal, with corresponding responds. There are no -capitals on the piers, and the bases have simple splays; the splayed -arches of the arcade die against the piers (Fig. 167). From the floor to -the springing of the arches is 6 feet 7½ inches, and to the soffit of -the arch at the apex is 17 feet 4½ inches. The chancel arch, which is 13 -feet 11 inches wide, is treated in a similar manner to the other arches, -and is a few feet higher. - -The roof of the church is shown on the sketch by Nattes as being in one -span; so that there does not appear to have been a clerestory over the -nave arcade. Now only the foundation of the north aisle wall remains, -and the chancel walls are reduced to a few feet in height; while at the -west end they have almost disappeared, showing how badly used the place -has been during this century. The entrance to the church was by a -square-lintelled doorway in the centre of the south wall of the nave, -and there appears to have been a priests’ doorway in the south side of -the - -[Illustration: FIG. 166.--Muthill Church. View from South-East.] - -chancel. There is a door through the east wall of the north aisle, which -possibly led into what may have been a sacristy or vestry. At the west - -[Illustration: FIG. 167.--Muthill Church. West Window and Respond.] - -end of the north aisle there seems to have been a chapel, lighted with a -west window. - -The windows of the church, of which three remain entire in the south - -[Illustration: FIG. 168.--Muthill Church. Plan of Windows in South -Aisle.] - -aisle (Fig. 168), contain three lights in each. They are of good design, -and resemble windows in the north side of Dunblane Cathedral. The east -window in the south aisle of the nave is completely demolished, and only -one jamb remains of the west window of the north-west chapel. Over each -of the end windows of the south aisle there are small pointed windows, -widely splayed towards the - -[Illustration: FIG. 169.--Muthill Church. Remains of Sedilia.] - -inside. One of these is shown in Fig. 164. An ambry at the east end of -the south aisle, and a roughly-formed recess or ambry on the north side -of the chancel, with the remains of a sedilia, complete the -ecclesiastical appurtenances of the church, so far as they have been -spared, if, indeed, the latter can be said to have been spared. It is -situated in the usual place, near the east end of the chancel; but only -a portion of the west corner remains. (Fig. 169). It is moulded, having -a hollow set in a splay, with a stop chamfer above the seat level. How -it was finished along the top nothing remains to indicate. There were -three seats, graduated in height--an unusual feature in Scotland. The -lowest seat, which is 1 foot 11 inches wide, is the narrowest; the -centre one is 2 feet 3 inches; and the east one appears to have been the -widest, but, the wall being broken down, the exact dimensions cannot be -given. - -Opposite the sedilia are the mutilated remains of two figures. (Fig. -170). They are life-size, and are cut out of one stone. They have - -[Illustration: FIG. 170.--Muthill Church. Monument.] - -recently been protected by a strong iron hearse, and the following -inscription on the wall behind tells who they were, viz.:--“In memory of -Ada, daughter of Henry, Seneschal of Strathearn, and of Sir Muriel -Drummond, first Knight of Concraig, who died 1362, whose effigies -beneath have wasted by the long Lapse of Time. This Tablet has been -placed by their Descendants, the Drummonds of Megginch, late of Lennoch, -in Strathearn. A.D., 1880.” - -The edifice, now in ruins, was built by Michael Ochiltree, who was first -Dean, then Bishop of Dunblane. Keith (_Catalogue_) says:--“It is to be -supposed that he built the Church of Muthill while he was Dean only, -that church belonging to the deanery.” He was Dean in 1425, and Bishop -in 1430. When he died is not known, but he was Bishop in 1445, and his -successor, Robert Lauder, was Bishop in 1449. Spottiswood says that -Ochiltree was “a wealthy prelate, and well esteemed; and so purchased to -his see a great part of the forfeited lands of Strathearn, adorned the -Cathedral of Dunblane, built the bridge of Knaik and Machant, with the -Church of Muthill, and did in his time divers other good works.” He -crowned James II. in Holyrood in 1437, and his effigy is shown in the -nave of Dunblane Cathedral. - - -ST. SERF’S, DUNNING,[151] PERTHSHIRE. - -The village of Dunning is situated in Lower Strathearn, about 1¾ mile -south-east of the railway station of the same name. The following -historical facts connected with the church and district are from a -scarce “History of Dunning,” by the late Rev. John Wilson, minister of -the parish. - -“Dunning,” Mr. Wilson says, “when first heard of in authentic history, -formed part of the ancient Stewartry or Earldom of Strathearn, and dates -back to a remote antiquity,” the Earls or Courts Palatine of Strathearn -dating from before the Norman Conquest. When the foreign immigrants -arrived in Scotland, in the twelfth century, under David I., “there were -families of the ancient Scottish or Celtic blood who held their own, and -maintained their native customs amid the new-fangled innovations of the -Saxon and Norman chivalry. One of the most famous of these native -magnates was Malis, Earl of Strathearn, who acted a prominent part in -the disastrous Battle of the Standard.” - -In the course of time this reserve on the part of the native nobles wore -away, and we find that Gilbert, the grandson of Malis, “took charters -from the king for the lands which his fathers had held by their swords. -He connected himself by marriage with the new-comers, and rivalled the -most zealous of the followers of King David in his munificence to the -Church.” He “richly endowed the neighbouring Abbey of Canons Regular at -Inchaffray, annexing to it the tithes of many of the surrounding -parishes,” as is shown by the foundation charter of the Abbey in the -library of the Earl of Kinnoull, “dated in the year 1200 from the -incarnation of our Lord, in the thirty-fifth year of the reign of King -William.” - -[Illustration: FIG. 171.--Tower of St. Serf’s, Dunning. From -North-West.] - -In a charter of confirmation, nineteen years later, Gilbert, in addition -to his former liberality, grants to Inchaffray, “_Ecclesiam sancti -servani de Dunnyne_,” the “church dedicated to St. Servanus, or Serf, at -Dunning;” so that we have here proof of the existence of a church at -Dunning in the year 1219, and it may be inferred that it did not exist -in the year 1200, from its not being mentioned in the charters of that -year. The date, therefore, of the erection of this church is narrowed to -the early years of the thirteenth century, and there need be no -hesitation in assigning to that time the present tower and certain other -portions of - -[Illustration: FIG. 172.--St. Serf’s, Dunning. Plan.] - -the structure. This tower, although similar in general form to those at -Muthill and Dunblane, is considerably later in date. It is an example of -Norman work continuing to be used in Scotland for some years after 1200, -the pointed form of the arch being the only indication of the coming -change of style. - -The tower (Fig. 171), which is of Norman architecture, is placed at the -west end of the church (Fig. 172). It is built in three unequal tapering -stages, and without buttresses, to a height of about 75 feet to the -ridge. The two stories above the church roof have small square-lintelled -windows, but in the belfry stage double windows are introduced (Fig. -173). Both lights are contained within a plain square-edged round arch, -without imposts, and the two lights, which have plain round arches, are -separated by a central shaft with cushion cap. The crow-stepped gablets -of the saddle-backed roof are probably of later date, but they, no -doubt, indicate the original style of finishing the tower. The turret -stair, shown on plan (see Fig. 172) stops about half-way up, access -above being obtained by wooden ladders. The elaborately-carved and -pointed archway (Fig. 174), opening from the tower into the church, is a -most noteworthy - -[Illustration: FIG. 173.--St. Serf’s, Dunning. South-East View of -Tower.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 174.--St. Serf’s, Dunning. Archway in Tower.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 175.--St. Serf’s, Dunning. Plan of Tower and Detail -of Archway.] - -feature, and was quite concealed from view till disclosed during the -course of some recent repairs. Figs. 175, 176, and 177 show the details -of this archway. - -[Illustration: FIG. 176.--St. Serf’s, Dunning. Details of Arch.] - -Considerable portions of the old church still remain. The building, - -[Illustration: FIG. 177.--St. Serf’s, Dunning. Apex of Archway.] - -as it now stands, is 68 feet long by 25 feet wide on the outside at the -east end, and 26 feet 9 inches at the west end. The total length, -including the tower, is 82 feet, the height of which to the ridge is 75 -feet. - -The church has been greatly altered at various times; an aisle has been -added on the north side, and the ancient north doorway (Fig. 178) has -been disfigured and almost concealed by an outside staircase being built -across it. The west gable wall of the church, however, and a good part -of the north wall and the east wall are original. The ancient corbels at -the north parapet still survive (see Fig. 178), and the raggle of the -original roof is seen against the east side of the tower (see Fig. 173). -It is thus quite evident that the existing building is in great part on -the site of the _Ecclesia_ - -[Illustration: FIG. 178.--St. Serf’s, Dunning. Doorway, &c., on North -Side.] - -_sancti servani de Dunnyne_. There appears to have been a chancel, as -Mr. Thomson informs us that during alterations about twenty-five years -ago the bases of the pillars were found _in situ_. - - -CRUGGLETON CHURCH, WIGTONSHIRE. - -The parish of Cruggleton now forms part of the parish of Sorbie, with -which it was united in the seventeenth century. The old church of -Cruggleton is situated near the coast about three miles from Garleston, - -[Illustration: FIG. 179.--Cruggleton Church. Chancel Arch, from West.] - -and about the same distance from Whithorn, to the priory at which it -belonged before the Reformation. The church of Cruggleton, being -abandoned, fell into decay. The view (Fig. 179), for which we have to -thank Mr. Galloway, shows its condition before it was recently restored -by the Marquis of Bute, under Mr. Galloway’s careful superintendence. -The building is still surrounded by its burial-ground. The plan (Fig. -181) shows a simple oblong church, 34 feet in length by 20 feet in -width, with an oblong chancel 20 feet 3 inches long by 16 feet wide. The -side walls were considerably damaged, but enough of them remained - -[Illustration: FIG. 180.--Cruggleton Church. Chancel Arch. From -South-East.] - -to enable the outline to be distinctly traced. The best preserved and -most important feature was the chancel arch, which was 8 feet in width. -Its architecture, which was extremely simple, was of the early Norman -style. It had three orders on the side next the nave (see Fig. 179), -each side having two nook shafts, built in courses and provided with -cushion caps. The inner jambs were plain, and the aperture in the wall -was simply faced with a square ingoing of ashlar, and enclosed on the -side next the chancel (Fig. 180) with a single square-edged arch -springing from a very plain impost. - -Mr. Muir points out that when he visited the church the walls, “except -the west one, which wants the gable, are at about their full height; but - -[Illustration: FIG. 181.--Cruggleton Church. Plan.] - -most of the dressed stones have been torn from the corners of both -compartments, the chancel arch and other parts easily got at.” He could -not discern traces of there having - -[Illustration: FIG. 182.--Cruggleton Church. North Doorway as Restored.] - -ever been more than two windows, “that on the east a small and very -plain round headed one, widely splayed within, and the west one of the -same shape, but much broader, and set square in the wall.” In the -restoration carried out by Mr. Galloway great care has been taken to -restore every part (so far as precedent could be obtained) to its -original condition. As an example of Mr. Galloway’s patient research we -may quote his account of the steps by which the original design of the -south doorway was ascertained. “To begin with, a stone or two of the -internal sconsions remained _in situ_. This gave the position and size -internally of the long demolished doorway. Part of the paving and -massive rubble steps at the outside also remained. Of the external -features there seemed at first to be no trace. The discovery of one -stone threw a flood of light on it. This was the base of a column which -had never been shifted out of its position, but simply lifted and laid -on its side, with the bottom bed outwards, so as to look like an -ordinary courser. I also found about the same place several plain arch -stones, also a capital of simple form, and from these materials, and -especially the base found _in situ_, there could be no doubt that the -external features were a plain ring like that of the chancel arch -carried on engaged columns. In taking down some of a dry stone dyke a -large rybat and an arch stone checked and chamfered were found, which -could only be part of the actual doorway. The only uncertainty is the -height; the original may have been lower, but we cannot be certain. I -adhered to the proportions usual in other examples.” Fig. 182 shows the -restored doorway, “a recovery out of the long forgotten past.” - - -MONYMUSK CHURCH, ABERDEENSHIRE. - -A few remains of the ancient church of Monymusk still survive and are -incorporated with the modern church now erected on the old site. The -village is situated in the valley of the Don, about one mile from the -station of the branch railway to Alford, and is about seven miles up the -valley from Kintore Junction. Monymusk is a place of great antiquity, -being one of the oldest seats of the Culdees in the North of Scotland. A -church is said to have been founded here by Malcolm Canmore, who - -[Illustration: FIG. 183.--Monymusk Church. Plan.] - -vowed it to St. Andrew, and marked off the tower with his spear before -engaging in battle against the Mormaer of Moray. Dr. Skene[152] points -out that the community of Keledei at Monimusc were connected with St. -Andrews, having probably been founded by the Bishop of St. Andrews. The -church here, like that at St. Andrews, was dedicated to St. Mary. The -Culdees first appear at Monymusk in 1170, and it is said that Gilchrist, -Earl of Mar (1199-1207), built them a convent on condition that they -should subject themselves to canonical rule. Disputes having arisen -between the Culdees and the Bishop of St. Andrews, an arrangement was -finally come to, by which the Keledei were allowed to retain their lands -and dues, they promising to do nothing to the prejudice of the church of -St. Andrews or the parish church of Monymusk. They were thus brought -under the more direct control of the Bishop who is called the - -[Illustration: FIG. 184.--Monymusk Church. View from South-West.] - -founder of their house, and they were thus assimilated to the state into -which the Keledei of St. Andrews had been brought. Like them, they -consisted of a prior or head, with twelve members, and, like them, were -excluded from all parochial functions. In 1245 the Keledei of Monymusk -had entirely disappeared, and instead we have a confirmation by Pope -Innocent II. to the “prior and convent of Monymusk of the Order of St. -Augustine.” - -The remains of the ancient Norman church establish the antiquity of the -foundation. These consist of the lower part of the tower and the chancel -arch. The church, as it now stands (Fig. 183), is a plain oblong modern -structure 45 feet in length by 20 feet 3 inches in width internally, -with a north wing or aisle, and galleries in the north, west, and east -divisions entered from outside stairs. The ancient tower at the west end -and the ancient chancel arch at the east end clearly fix the length of -the original structure, and the modern side walls probably mark the -position of the original side walls. To the east of the chancel arch -there is an apartment about 15 feet square, used as a vestry, and in -continuation of this structure to the eastward are the roofless walls of -a building 34 feet in length. This enclosure is used as a burial-place. -It has a modern doorway in the north wall, and all the walls are so -covered with ivy that no traces of ancient work, if such exist, can be -discovered. - -[Illustration: FIG. 185.--Monymusk Church. Chancel Arch.] - -The west tower (Fig. 184) is 22 feet by 23 feet externally. It appears -to have been almost entirely rebuilt, except the doorway in the west -wall, which seems to be ancient. It has plain square jambs and round -arch head, with hood mould enclosing the arch stones. The opening in the -west wall of the tower leading into the church has been by a round -archway 9 feet in width, now built up. This wall has been much altered, -but there appear to have been Norman imposts to the arch. The chancel -arch (Fig. 185) is 8 feet 6 inches wide. It has had a large attached -centre shaft and two smaller side shafts in each jamb. The north centre -shaft has been removed and a wooden substitute introduced. The shafts -have all had Norman caps of the cushion pattern (see enlarged sketch in -Fig. 185), but they are now so battered as to be scarcely -distinguishable. The arch is much concealed under the east gallery. To -the right of it is a monumental tablet of the seventeenth century, which -bears the arms of Leslie and Forbes impaled. - -From the style of the architecture of the Norman remains, it seems most -probable that they form part of the convent erected by the Earl of Mar -in the beginning of the thirteenth century. - - -ST. BRANDON’S, BIRNIE, MORAYSHIRE. - -Birnie is believed to have been the original seat of the Bishop of Moray -before he migrated, in the first place, to Kineddar, then to Spynie, and -finally to Elgin. Simeon, the fourth Bishop, was buried here in 1184. -The church is situated about three miles south from Elgin, near the -river Lossie, and the road to it from Elgin passes through a pleasant, -well cultivated country, diversified with numerous undulations and -woods. - -[Illustration: FIG. 186.--Birnie Church. Plan.] - -The church, which is dedicated to St. Brandon, stands on the top of a -small alluvial hill and is conspicuous from a distance. It is evidently -ancient, and, although perfectly plain externally, impresses one at -sight, from the nature of its masonry, as being of Norman workmanship. -The stone work is all of square dressed freestone ashlar, both -externally and internally. The west wall was rebuilt in 1734 (the date -on the belfry), when the church was shortened by a few feet, and -although the old materials were reused, the inferiority of the new -workmanship to the old is very apparent. - -As it now stands, the edifice (Fig. 186) consists of nave and chancel, -without aisles. The former measures 42 feet long by 18 feet 6 inches -wide internally, and the latter is 16 feet long by 13 feet wide. The -nave has a doorway in the south wall, and another immediately opposite -it in the north wall. The chancel has a small round-headed window in -each of the north and south walls, and it is remarkable that there is no -window in the east wall. There is also a doorway in the south wall of -the chancel, which has evidently been added or enlarged at a -comparatively late period. Every part of the building, both externally -and internally, is perfectly plain. The only portion which presents the -smallest approach to ornament is the chancel arch (Fig. 187). The -opening is 7 feet 6 inches in width, and is flanked at each side by a -substantial semi-circular attached shaft, which has a moulded base and a -heavy Norman cap of the pattern founded on the cushion, with - -[Illustration: FIG. 187.--Birnie Church. Chancel Arch and Font.] - -numerous subdivisions. The upper part of the cap has also a small -stepped ornament, similar to what exists at Jedburgh and elsewhere. The -square abacus of the caps carries an arch which forms one square order, -and the angles of the jambs support another square order on each side of -the first. The architecture, though simple, is good, and, together with -the chancel arch, indicates a rather advanced date in the Norman period, -probably towards the end of the twelfth century. Within the chancel arch -there stands a very interesting relic of Norman design, probably of -older date than the church. This is the stone font, the upper part of -which consists of a semi-hemispherical stone basin, with portions cut -off vertically, like a cushion cap, while the top plinth has small -portions at the angles cut off, thus making it an irregular octagon. The -pedestal on which the basin rests is circular, and is fluted with small -spirals passing round it. This, we understand, was supplied recently. - -The church also contains a very rare and interesting specimen of the -ancient square shaped Celtic bell, which may possibly indicate that the -present church was preceded by a Celtic monastery, of which this is a -relic, but of which no record remains. - - -ST. ORAN’S CHAPEL, IONA, ARGYLLSHIRE. - -St. Oran’s Chapel is the name given to a small edifice which stands in -the ancient burial-ground situated a short distance south-west from the -cathedral. The name of the churchyard is “Relig Oran,” being so called -from Oran, one of St. Columba’s companions, who was probably the first -of his followers who died on the island. - -As stated in the Introduction,[153] this chapel is supposed by Dr. -Reeves to have been built by Queen Margaret about 1074. The chapel (Fig. -188) is a plain oblong, 30 feet long by 16 feet wide internally. As -often happens in West Highland chapels, there is no window in the east -wall. - -[Illustration: FIG. 188.--St. Oran’s Chapel. Plan.] - -The only light was obtained from two narrow windows near the east end, -one in the north and the other in the south wall, immediately opposite -one another. - -The entrance doorway (Fig. 189) is in the west wall. It is more -elaborate than most of the West Highland chapels, having (Fig. 190) two -nook shafts on each side with plain cushion caps, surmounted by a -semi-circular arch in two orders with a label, all of which have been -elaborately carved with Norman enrichments. Those of the label consist -of a series of round and rather pointed knobs. The outer order seems to -have been carved with a bird’s head ornament, and the inner order with a -kind of chevron. All the carved work, however, is greatly decayed by -exposure to the weather. The building has a gable at each end, and has -had a wooden roof. In the interior of the south wall a somewhat -elaborate monument (Fig. 191) has been inserted, which, from its style, -is evidently of late date. The canopy consists of two orders, one of an -ogee form, with weather table, which has been ornamented with crockets, -and has a crucifixion introduced in the pinnacle at the top of the arch. -The label terminations at each side - -[Illustration: FIG. 189.--St. Oran’s Chapel. View from West.] - -consist of animals like lions of an exaggerated size. The inner arch has -a large cusp which has been filled with Celtic carved scroll work, but -it is now much decayed. A broken piscina stands at the west side of the -monument. A number of very interesting and finely carved Celtic -monumental slabs are preserved in the chapel, and a great many more, -some of - -[Illustration: FIG. 190.--St. Oran’s Chapel. West Doorway.] - -them said to be the monuments of Scottish, Irish, and Norwegian kings, -lie exposed in the churchyard, and are gradually wasting away. They are -all elaborately carved with the floral ornament peculiar to this part of -the country, while some also contain the dog-tooth ornament, which was -revived here at a late date. This will be further referred to in -connection with Iona Cathedral. - -[Illustration: FIG. 191.--St. Oran’s Chapel. Monument.] - -Mr. Romilly Allen has shown that the Norman carved work in England was -executed between 1135 and 1190, and that hardly any carving exists on -churches of an earlier date. It could, therefore, not be looked for here -till towards the end of the twelfth century. The carved work in the west -doorway of the chapel, being of a somewhat advanced character of -ornament, can, therefore, scarcely be earlier than about the beginning -of the thirteenth century. - - -THE CHAPEL IN EDINBURGH CASTLE, KNOWN AS “ST. MARGARET’S CHAPEL.” - -When treating of Edinburgh Castle in the _Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland_,[154] this chapel was briefly described and -illustrated; but it has been thought of sufficient importance to be -included in this volume, with additional illustrations[155] and -descriptive matter. - -[Illustration: FIG. 192.--St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. Plan -and Sections.] - -The exterior walls of the chapel (Fig. 192) form an oblong, measuring 31 -feet 7 inches from east to west, by 16 feet in width at the east end and -14 feet 4 inches at the west end. The angles of the structure are thus -not right angles. Although the building is extremely simple in its -external aspect, it is more ornamental and of a more developed form of -plan in the - -[Illustration: FIG. 193.--St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. -Elevations.] - -interior. The plan comprises a nave with a chancel arch, and a chancel -which has a round apse formed within the square east end of the -exterior. The nave is 15 feet 10 inches long by 10 feet 4 inches and 9 -feet 9 inches wide at the east and west ends respectively. The chancel -is 9 feet 7½ inches long, and the same width at the west end. The total -interior length is 27 feet 4½ inches. The nave is waggon vaulted, -without ribs; and the apse is roofed with a vault forming the quadrant -of a dome. The nave vault is about 10 feet 8 inches high. (See sections, -Fig. 192.) - -The chapel stands on the extreme summit of the Castle rock, and the rock -which is seen rising against it on all sides, except the north (on which -side the level outside is nearly the same as that of the floor), has, it -is understood, in recent years been partially cut away on the south, -east, and west sides. (Fig. 193.) This operation has to be kept in view -in considering the masonry of the exterior walls, for on those three -sides there has necessarily been a certain amount of underbuilding, -which is consequently of a much more modern character than Norman -masonry. - -[Illustration: FIG. 194.--St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. View -from South-West.] - -The genuine surviving Norman masonry begins below the line of the south -windows (see Fig. 194). The first two or three courses, which extend up -to the sills of the south windows, are built of reddish stone, above -which are five courses of a bluish grey stone, the upper course being -above the windows. All the masonry above that level on the south and -north sides is later work. - -The masonry of the north and east sides has been greatly interfered -with, as has also that of the west end, where, however, there are -several consecutive Norman courses. The east wall appears to have been -carried to a greater height than the other walls (Fig. 194), as if some -higher building had been attached to the chapel. - -The alterations above referred to show that the side and end walls have -been raised, and we have no doubt that the upper part of the west gable -above the window, with the ridge course, is modern, or at least of a -date long subsequent to the original building. - -The present porch in front of the entrance door on the north side, near -the west end, is quite modern, although the doorway itself is ancient. A - -[Illustration: FIG. 195.--St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. -Elevation of Chancel Arch.] - -square-headed doorway, with splayed opening, has, possibly in the -sixteenth or seventeenth centuries, been cut through the west wall (see -Fig. 194). There are indications of a narrow doorway having formerly -opened into the chancel on the north side. It is now built up, and forms -an ambry on the inside. (See Fig. 192.) - -There are three windows in the south wall, one of them being in the -chancel. There is also a window in each of the end walls, the one in the -west end being at a considerably higher level than the other (see Fig. -194). All the windows are splayed widely on the inside, and slightly so -on the outside, and they are round arched. They are all about 8 inches -wide by about 2 feet high. The two westmost windows in the south - -[Illustration: FIG. 196.--St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. -Chancel Arch Details.] - -wall, and the high window in the west gable, give light to the nave; the -east window in the south wall, and that in the east wall, light the -chancel, the former being in the south side, and the latter in the -centre of the circular apse. - -There is a locker on the north side of the chancel, and a piscina -projects, without any recess in the wall, from the south side. This -piscina - -[Illustration: FIG. 197.--St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. -Chancel Arch.] - -has a very new look, as if it had been rewrought or renewed; but we have -no reason to doubt but that it faithfully represents the original -piscina. It has the usual drain. - -The chancel arch (Fig. 195), while quite in proportion to the chapel, is -little larger than an ordinary doorway. Its opening measures 5 feet 1 -inch wide by 6 feet 4 inches to the springing of the arch, and 9 feet in -height, measuring from the nave floor to the soffit of the arch, and -there is a step up to the chancel. Each jamb (Fig. 196) has two -monolithic shafts, set in nooks, with cushion cups. The arch, which is -in two corresponding orders, is decorated with the ordinary chevron -design. (Fig. 197.) Enclosing the arch is a label moulding, enriched -with a lozenge pattern. The arch on the chancel side is quite plain. - -The arched roof of the nave, which is built with carefully-dressed -stones, seems to be of a later date than the walls, the masonry being -finer, and of a different and lighter coloured stone. - -The existence of this chapel was long lost sight of, till the late Sir -Daniel Wilson, in the course of his explorations in Old Edinburgh, -discovered the true nature of the building. He thinks that it is in all -probability the chapel used by Queen Margaret during her residence in -the Castle before her death in 1093, and that it is probably the most -ancient chapel in Scotland. It does not, however, appear to be a very -early specimen of Norman work, but rather a fairly-advanced example of -the style, both in plan and decoration. Had the chapel been erected in -the eleventh century, it would certainly have been of a much ruder style -of architecture. No Norman building of that period can be shown to exist -in Scotland. Sir Daniel supposes it to be earlier than the Norman part -of Holyrood, which was founded in 1128; though probably no part was -erected till a considerable time thereafter. Now, the doorway on the -south side of Holyrood (the only Norman portion of that building -remaining) is not unlike the chancel arch here. The caps of the shafts, -the chevron decoration of the arches, and the enriched label are all -similar in design, and there is no reason whatever for supposing the one -to be older than the other. - -After the chapel was discovered, it was intended to be used for its -original purpose; a font was gifted to it, and the windows were filled -with stained glass. It has now, however, degenerated into a shop for the -sale of nicknacks to tourists. - - -DUNFERMLINE ABBEY, FIFESHIRE. - -Situated north of the Forth, or “Scots Water,” in the heart of the old -Pictish kingdom, Dunfermline was from an early period occupied as a -secure and pleasant site by the kings of Scotland. Here Malcolm Canmore -had his tower (of which a few crumbling remains still survive), and here -he entertained the royal fugitives from England, and married the -Princess Margaret, one of these refugees, in 1070. - -The King and Queen ended their lives in 1093, within a few days of each -other--the first at the siege of Alnwick, and the other in Edinburgh -Castle. - -According to Turgot, her confessor and biographer, Queen Margaret, -immediately after her marriage, founded a church “in that place where -the nuptials were celebrated.” This church was dedicated to the Holy -Trinity in 1074. It became the place of royal sepulture, and Queen -Margaret was buried there a few days after her death. From that time -onwards there are continuous references to grants to the Church of the -Holy Trinity, and to interments of royal personages therein. - -As no notice has been preserved of the erection of any new church till -the building of the choir in the first quarter of the thirteenth -century, it has been supposed that the nave of the existing structure -(which is in the Norman style) may have been the church founded and -erected by Queen Margaret. But the style of the building forbids this -supposition. None of the English cathedrals were founded till the end of -the eleventh century, and few were carried out till the expiry of the -first quarter of the twelfth century. Scotland would certainly not be in -advance of England in its style of architecture, and we know that -little, if any, Norman work was executed in this country till the days -of David I. Professor Innes is, therefore, no doubt right when he -says--“The original church of Canmore, perhaps not of stone, must have -been replaced by a new edifice when it was dedicated in the reign of -David I.”[156] The style of the structure is early Norman, and would -naturally follow the erection of Durham Cathedral, which took place -about twenty-five years earlier. - -Probably the original church of Malcolm stood where the new choir was -afterwards erected, and David I. added the Norman nave to it. The nature -of the site seems to favour this view, as the ground to the west slopes -rapidly away, and scarcely allows room for the west end of the nave; -while the conventual buildings, for want of suitable space, have had to -be carried with an archway over a public street. - -It is believed that Alexander I. contemplated the erection of the church -into an abbey, and had possibly made arrangements for the introduction -of monks. At any rate, in the year of the accession of his successor, -David I. (1124), canons of the Order of St. Augustine were brought from -Canterbury and established at Dunfermline. - -It was, no doubt, soon after that event that David I. carried out -extensive works at the new monastery, and probably added the Norman nave -to the then existing church of his parents, Margaret and Malcolm. The -monastery continued to flourish, and was largely endowed. The early -church was soon found to be too small, and it was resolved to rebuild -it, so as to form a new choir and transept worthy of the dignity and -importance of the convent. This was accordingly carried out between 1216 -and 1226, when the choir, with its aisles, the transept, and the -presbytery were erected. Abbot Patrick, who had formerly been Dean - -[Illustration: FIG. 198.--Dunfermline Abbey. Plan.] - -and Prior of Canterbury, presided at Dunfermline during the whole of the -above time. After him came Abbot William (II.), whom we find appealing -to Pope Honorius III. for certain patronages and presentations on -account of the great expense incurred during the last ten years in -carrying on the extended fabric, whereby the monastery had been greatly -impoverished. Again, in 1231, a similar appeal was made to Pope Gregory -IX., both on account of the expenses of the church, - -[Illustration: FIG. 199.--Dunfermline Abbey. Plan of Nave.] - -and also because the number of canons had been increased from thirty to -fifty. - -In 1249 a dispute arose regarding the consecration of the new choir, but -Honorius IV. decided that a new consecration was not necessary, as the -consecrated walls of the older part (the nave) continued in use. In the -same year Queen Margaret was canonised, and in 1250 her body was -transferred from the old church to the new Lady Chapel, in presence of -all the chief men in the kingdom. “The translation of the saintly -foundress was probably arranged,” says Professor Innes, “to give -solemnity to the opening of the new church.”[157] Soon after this the -abbey is described by Matthew of Westminster, who probably saw it, as of -vast extent, and containing such magnificent palaces that three kings, -with their trains, might be accommodated within its walls. - -“This sumptuous pile was destroyed and levelled with the ground by the -soldiers of Edward in 1303, excepting only the church and a few -dwellings for the monks.”[158] - -The Exchequer Rolls inform us of the great expense sometimes incurred in -connection with the tombs of the illustrious persons buried in the -abbey.[159] - -The monastic buildings were, as we have seen, on a very magnificent -scale; but of the church, and all the splendid structures connected with -the abbey, there now only remain (Fig. 198) the Norman nave, the base of -the Lady Chapel, and part of the refectory and kitchen. - -[Illustration: FIG. 200.--Nave Piers and Wall Responds.] - -The nave (Fig. 199), which is wonderfully well preserved, measures about -106 feet long inside, by about 55 feet wide between the aisle walls. The -piers are circular, and measure 4 feet 4½ inches in diameter. The plan -of these, with that of the wall responds (Fig. 200), indicates that the -original intention (which was carried out) was to groin the aisles. The -two eastern bays between the eastern pillars are built up with solid -masonry, and only a portion of the arches is seen. The original respond -at the east gable wall, against which these arches rested, has long -since disappeared, in connection with the erection of the later church. - -The two western bays, and the triforium arches above them (one on each -side), have also been filled up with solid building in order to -strengthen the western towers. The southern of these arches is shown in -Fig. 201. The pillars which support the west towers are of greater size -than the others, and are of a different section. One of the pillars and -the corresponding arch of the north arcade are of late Gothic work, and -may be part of the repairs ordered by the Privy Council in 1563,[160] or -of the work done in 1594, under the direction of William Schaw, Master -of Works, who at that time built the north-west tower and steeple - -[Illustration: FIG. 201.--Dunfermline Abbey. Interior of West End of -Nave.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 202.--Dunfermline Abbey. West End.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 203.--Dunfermline Abbey. North Porch.] - -(Fig. 202), as well as the porch on the north side of the nave (Fig. -203). At the same time, also, certain great buttresses (Fig. 204) were -built against the outer walls, which are now conspicuous features of the -structure. - -The great western doorway of the church (Fig. 205) remains unaltered, -and is a good example of Norman work. It consists of five orders, having -round and octagonal shafts alternately, chiefly with cushion caps, but -some are ornamented with scrolls (Fig. 206). The abacus is heavy, and is -carved with sunk diapers. The orders are continued round the arches, and -contain chevron ornaments (much decayed), rosettes, and diapers. The -outer order contains large heads and geometric figures in the alternate -voussoirs, an arrangement similar to that at Dalmeny and Whithorn, where -also the geometric figures resemble those adopted here. The original -north doorway (Fig. 207), which is partly concealed by Schaw’s porch, is -similar in design, with the addition of an arcade above the arch (see -Fig. 203), somewhat resembling, but plainer than that over the doorway -of Dalmeny Church, on the south side of the Forth. The south doorway of -the church on the opposite side from the porch is a late work. There -appears to have been another south doorway at the east end of the nave, -but it is now built up. The whole of the aisle walls are arcaded in the -interior (Fig. 208) up to the height of the window sills, but the arcade -has been partly cut away for monuments. - -The general design of the nave recalls that of Durham Cathedral, at the -founding of which King Malcolm Canmore was present. The same circular -piers, with zig-zag ornaments and massive cushion caps, and also -clustered piers, occur in each (Fig. 209), and the small circular bases, -resting on great square plinths, are common to both (see also p. 37, -Fig. 18). The arches between the main piers (Fig. 210) consist of bold -mouldings, with the label ornament running round the outer moulding. The -triforium at Dunfermline is extremely simple (Fig. 211), consisting of a -single opening with plain jambs and round arch, with a large roll and -fillet in the centre of the thickness of the wall, supported on single -attached shafts with cushion caps. The clerestory is also very simple. -It contains one window in each bay, with plain recessed arch, supported -on single shafts with cushion caps. The aisles (Fig. 212) are vaulted -and groined. The transverse arches are flat, with a roll on each side, -and the diagonal groins spring from the detached shafts of the responds -(see Fig. 208). The windows of the aisles (see Fig. 209) are single -round-headed lights, having plain sconsions with one recessed shaft on -each side, and the arch enriched with chevron mouldings. Externally -(Fig. 213) they are of similar design. - -Fig. 208 shows the wall shafting and springing of the ribs in the -aisles, and the mouldings of the nave arcade, with the arcading beneath -the - -[Illustration: FIG. 204.--Dunfermline Abbey. Part of North Side.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 205.--Dunfermline Abbey. Western Doorway.] - -windows. It also shows the original aisle windows on the inside, while -Fig. 213 shows their appearance on the exterior. It will be observed in -the latter that there is the same sunk or label ornament on the -drip-stone as there is over the arches of the main arcade. Above the -aisle window (see the same Fig.) are the lights of the triforium -gallery. These have triangular heads, formed by two stones. They appear -to have been rounded or moulded on the edge, and spring from sunk shafts -having carved capitals. They are now very much decayed, and have all -been restored except two on the north side. - -Judging from the existence of the large west end pillars already -referred to, it was evidently intended from the beginning to have two -western towers. The northern one - -[Illustration: FIG. 206.--Dunfermline Abbey. From North Side of Western -Doorway.] - -was destroyed to a considerable extent at the Reformation,[161] along -with the upper part of the adjoining gable. In its present state it was -designed and built by William Schaw, and is a very effective example of -the architecture of his time (see Figs. 202 and 204). The bold -corbelling at the top of the tower recalls the somewhat similar -treatment of the towers of St. Machar’s, Aberdeen, and other examples -derived from domestic architecture. The south-west tower appears to have -escaped the fury of the Reformers, and to have remained intact, although -in a ruinous state, till 1807, when it fell, having been struck by -lightning. Three years later the present top was put on the old walls. -The Lady Chapel at the east end, built to receive Queen Margaret’s -shrine, is now reduced to a small fragment (see Plan), consisting of -part of the south and east walls, which remain to the height of about 2 -or 3 feet. It has been a small structure of about 26 feet 9 inches by 22 -feet, of delicate and refined first pointed work, as is apparent from -the bases of the wall arcading and the edge of the surrounding seat, -enriched with nail-head ornaments, which still exist (Fig. 214). The -Lady Chapel appears from an old view[162] to have been a low structure, -reaching only to the sill of the great east window of the choir, and it -was evidently vaulted in two compartments. - -Of the choir of the thirteenth century (shown on the Ground Plan, see -Fig. 198) not a single stone exists, having been removed to make room -for a modern church; but before the latter was built (begun in 1818), -considerable remains of the choir and apparently the whole of the -foundations were standing. These ruins were measured and drawn by Mr. -J. Baine, C.E., Edinburgh, in 1790, and by the Rev. Mr. Syme in 1805. -From their - -[Illustration: FIG. 207.--Dunfermline Abbey. Northern Doorway.] - -labours the author of the _Annals_ (Mr. E. Henderson) made a complete -plan of the church in 1827, and from it the ground plan of the choir now - -[Illustration: FIG. 208.--Dunfermline Abbey. Aisle.] - -given has been filled in.[163] The choir was a prolongation of the -present nave, having transepts, and also a great aisle on the north -side, the walls of which latter remained till this century. There was a -lofty central tower - -[Illustration: FIG. 209.--Dunfermline Abbey. View of Nave looking -West.] - -of two stories, with three windows in each story facing the four sides. -Altogether this church must have been a magnificent structure, and was -adorned with many altars and shrines. It was to that part of the church -specially that the zeal of the Reforming party was directed, when upon -the 28th March 1560, “the wholl lordis and barnis that were on thys syde -of Forth, passed to Stirling, and be the way kest doun the Abbey of -Dunfermling.”--(Lindsay, _Chronicle of Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 555.) - -The interior length of the whole church from the west doorway to the -Lady Chapel at the east end is 268 feet 6 inches, and the length of the -exterior is 280 feet. - -[Illustration: FIG. 210.--Dunfermline Abbey. Details.] - -The edifice occupies a lofty and commanding situation, from which the -ground falls away on the west and south sides. The monastic buildings -stood on the south side of the nave at a considerably lower level than -the church. Of these structures, as is shown by the dark walls on the -Plan, considerable remains still exist. The ground between the dark -walls and the church has, in recent years, been levelled up, the outer -portions of the monastic buildings serving as retaining walls. With the -exception of these outer walls, the site of the monastery is thus -buried. The refectory stood on the south side of the cloister, and the -whole length and height of its south and west walls still exist. There -is also a small portion of the return of its north wall, adjoining the -west gable wall. Indications of its east wall also exist, thus enabling -its dimensions to be fixed at 103 feet in length by 34 feet in width. -The south wall (Fig. 215) was divided into seven bays, and in six of -these there are lofty two-light windows (Fig. 216). The eastern bay is -occupied by the pulpit or reading-place, from which one of the brethren -read aloud during meals. This place, which occupies the whole of one -bay, is about 15 feet long, and is corbelled outwards on a cusped arch -(see Fig. 215) about 4 feet 6 inches wide. It is lighted from the -outside by two windows, which have mullions and tracery, still entire, -flush with the face of the wall. On the side next the hall there are two -lofty openings. - -Adjoining the refectory on the south-west is a large tower, beneath -which runs a public road, called St. Catherine’s Wynd, through a “pend” -or archway, whence the building is called the “Pend Tower.” The outside -of the refectory and “Pend Tower” (see Fig. 216) is very - -[Illustration: FIG. 211.--Dunfermline Abbey. Triforium and Clerestory.] - -imposing, with the simple row of lofty buttresses and windows along the -top. The west gable wall of the refectory (Fig. 217) is still entire, -and has a large window of seven lights. The tracery of this - -[Illustration: FIG. 212.--Dunfermline Abbey. North Aisle.] - -window is in good preservation (Fig. 218), and is one of the most -favourable examples of a kind of tracery developed in Scotland during -the fifteenth century. At the north-west corner of the refectory is the -staircase tower (see Fig. 217), which leads down to the offices below, -and upwards to the refectory roof, over which access was obtained to the -upper - -[Illustration: FIG. 213.--Dunfermline Abbey. Exterior of Aisle and -Clerestory Windows.] - -story of the “Pend Tower.” In the north wall of the refectory, near the -west end, are the remains of a flue, which may have belonged to a -fireplace. The “Pend Tower” is still entire, wanting only the cape house -and roof. It served as a connecting passage between the abbey buildings -and the royal palace beyond. A door led from the refectory (see Plan, -Fig. 219) by a passage into a groined chamber, and from thence into a -room in the palace situated over the kitchen. The kitchen is a lofty -room, now roofless, having remains of large fireplaces and some curious -recesses. Below the kitchen, but entering from another part of the -palace, there is a large vaulted apartment with central pillars. (Fig. -220.) These pillars were continued up through the kitchen, and probably -to the room, now gone, which stood over the kitchen. Another arched -passage led from this apartment through below St. Catherine’s Wynd and -up to the monastery. The building known as the palace was, doubtless, -intimately connected with the monastery, and the kitchen shown on the -plan may have been used in connection with both. - -Returning to the vaulted chamber in the “Pend Tower,” a long narrow -vaulted passage leads from it along the refectory wall for the length of -two bays. It is vaulted across from side to side for the length of the -first bay, and then in the second bay one half-arch springs at right - -[Illustration: FIG. 214.--Dunfermline Abbey. The Lady Chapel.] - -angles to the first arch from the end of the passage to meet the cross -vault. This probably indicates that steps lead down in the passage to -the level of the rooms below the refectory. But the place cannot be -properly seen, being chocked full with the grass and rubbish thrown in -from the churchyard. This passage is a very effective feature, as seen -from the outside. It is supported on arches thrown from buttress to -buttress, and is covered with a stone roof above (see Fig. 216). - -Within the “Pend Tower,” on the first floor, there is a five-sided room -with a fireplace, which appears to have been a sort of guard room. It is -vaulted, and has ribs irregularly placed, as shown on plan. This part of -the ruins is now a receptacle for rubbish, and is almost blocked up. -Over this, and entering from the circular stair adjoining, is the room -shown in Fig. 221. It is groin vaulted, and had a fireplace of good -design. To save this “Pend Tower,” with its fine vaulted apartments, - -[Illustration: FIG. 215.--Dunfermline Abbey. South Wall of Refectory.] - -a proper roof ought to be placed over it. Beneath the tower is the -“Pend” or archway uniting St. Catherine’s Wynd and Monastery Street. - -[Illustration: FIG. 216.--Dunfermline Abbey. The “Pend Tower” and part -of Refectory.] - -The above passage and staircase are additions made, without doubt, at -the time when the tower was built. This is clearly seen in Fig. 216. -From this drawing it is obvious that the arches were thrown between the -already existing buttresses of the refectory, and in the second bay the -arch is at a low level to permit of the descending stair already -referred to. The builders have just managed to save a very beautiful -doorway - -[Illustration: FIG. 217.--Dunfermline Abbey. West End of Refectory.] - -belonging to the earlier building, now hardly seen in the shadow of the -overhanging addition. - -To the east of the refectory there is a narrow chamber with the remains -of a two-light window in the south wall, and projecting southwards from -this is the lower part of the wall of the fratery reaching as high as -the floor of the refectory. On the east side of the fratery extends - -[Illustration: FIG. 218.--Dunfermline Abbey. Interior of West Window of -Refectory.] - -the south wall of a building called, on the plan, the Bailery Prison. -These fragmentary structures exhaust the remains of the monastic - -[Illustration: FIG. 219.--Dunfermline Abbey. Plan of “Pend Tower,” &c.] - -buildings. The chapterhouse, and the buildings on the east side of the -cloister (shown in outline on the plan), are taken from the old plan -already referred to, but their accuracy cannot be guaranteed. - -As already mentioned, the monastery was burned by Edward I. in 1303-4; -but, according to Tytler,[164] the church escaped. Froissart, however, -narrates that in 1385 Richard II. burned the abbey and town. It is -impossible to say to what extent these devastations were carried, but we -doubt if any of the existing monastic buildings belong to an earlier -date than that last mentioned. Perhaps the south wall may be older, and -has been restored. The tracery of the refectory west window belongs to -the end of the fifteenth century. The “Pend Tower” was built after the -refectory was finished, as it abuts against the westmost buttress (as -seen in Fig. 216) in a way it would not have done had the whole been of -one construction; also, the corner buttress has been cut away, as may be -seen at the right-hand side of Fig. 221. - -William Schaw, Master of Works, besides the buildings already referred -to, erected, in 1594, certain of the immense buttresses which form such -conspicuous features in all the views of the abbey. He likewise built, -and doubtless designed, the Queen’s House, and the Bailie and -Constabulary House, shown in the plan. In connection with the latter -houses, there are considerable remains of buildings still existing (as -shown on Plan) to the north-west of the abbey, and there seems every -probability that they formed part of the structures of the abbey and of -the Queen’s House. They are extremely picturesque as seen from the low -ground to the west. (Fig. 222.) The lofty house on the right hand dates -probably - -[Illustration: FIG. 220.--Dunfermline Abbey. Room below Kitchen.] - -from the end of the seventeenth century, and is a fine example of its -period. The adjoining buildings are considerably earlier, and in the -lower parts, where they are buttressed, they are probably of -pre-Reformation times. The upper portions are somewhat later, and are -very likely part of the work of Schaw. The porch to the latter buildings -is on the other side, and is quaint and well known from being seen from -the church. William Schaw died in 1602, and was buried in the nave, -where the monument to his memory (Fig. 223) was erected by order of -Queen Anne. - -[Illustration: FIG. 221.--Dunfermline Abbey.] - -The palace, which was intimately connected with the abbey, has been -described elsewhere.[165] - -[Illustration: FIG. 222.--Dunfermline Abbey. Old Buildings to North-West -of Church.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 223.--Dunfermline Abbey. Monument to William -Schaw.] - - -ST. MAGNUS’ CATHEDRAL, KIRKWALL, ORKNEY. - -In approaching Kirkwall from the sea, the chief object which meets the -view is the great mass of the cathedral. The town gradually comes into -sight, with its harbour and quays; but attention is irresistibly fixed -on the huge church, which overtops everything else. - -When the quaint old streets, with the gables of the houses facing the -narrow roadway, are traversed, and the open space round the cathedral is -reached, the visitor’s admiration of the structure is by no means -diminished. He enters by one of three splendid doorways in the west end, -which recall the portals of the cathedrals of France rather than those -of England. - -The first view of the interior is striking and impressive. (Fig. 224.) -The long perspective of the great round pillars and arches on each side -of the nave, surmounted by the round arched triforium and clerestory, -and the lofty roof covered with simple vaulting, give an impression of -size and height which is larger than is borne out by after measurement. -This appearance of great size has often been remarked of St. Magnus’, -and, no doubt, arises from the height and length of the edifice as -compared with its width, which between the piers is only 17 feet, while -the length of the nave is 111 feet, and the height to the apex of the -vault is about 50 feet. The cathedral is found to be complete in all its -great divisions. (Fig. 225, Plan.)[166] The nave has side aisles, which -are vaulted, and the side walls are arcaded with interlacing Norman -arches. The choir is, unfortunately, excluded by a glass screen from the -general view of the cathedral, owing to the east end being still used as -the parish church. The choir is of considerable length, being 85 feet 6 -inches long by 47 feet 6 inches wide, and has main piers, triforium, and -clerestory, of about the same height as the nave. It is also vaulted, -and has vaulted side aisles. The longitudinal section (Fig. 226) shows -the comparative heights of the nave and choir. - -The transept is 90 feet long by 17 feet wide, and has a great appearance -of height, but is not vaulted. It has no aisles, but has a vaulted -chapel projected to the east from each division of the transept. Fig. -227 is a section through the transept from north to south. - -The choir contains six bays, and the nave eight bays. - -When the exterior is examined, it is found to present at a glance a -general history of the structure, and the changes which have taken place -in it. The layers and masses of the different coloured stones which have -been used in the edifice at different times tell their own tale. Fig. -228 - -[Illustration: FIG. 224.--Kirkwall Cathedral. The Nave, looking West.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 225.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Ground Plan.] - -shows the north elevation of the whole cathedral.[167] The oldest work -(which, however, comprises several periods) is constructed with dark -slaty stone, having red freestone dressings. This masonry comprises the -whole of the outer walls of the choir, the transept, and the greater -part of the nave. It is evident, however, that this style of masonry -includes not only much Norman work, with its round arches and flat -buttresses, but also some later work, which has pointed windows and -boldly-projected buttresses. The Norman work (Figs. 228 and 229) may be -observed in the transept, and several bays of the nave and choir nearest -the transept, while the pointed work is specially noticeable in the -eastern half of the choir. - -In the clerestory walls of the choir (Fig. 230) great changes are -observable. The lower part of the wall, which contains the windows, is -built with dark red freestone, while the upper part is of whitish -freestone, clearly showing that the clerestory has been raised, together -with the parapet. The old line of the eaves is further apparent from the -row of Norman corbels which marks the original level before the wall was -raised. These corbels are specially visible on the north side of the -choir clerestory, but a few also remain on the south side. The new -corbel table under the parapet consists of corbels of well-known first -pointed form. - -Turning to the nave, it will be observed (see Fig. 228) that the whole -of the clerestory wall (except the two westmost bays) is built with -whitish freestone, while the windows are of small size and are pointed. -The clerestory of the nave thus corresponds with the raised part of that -of the choir in the stone used, but differs from it in the windows, -which are narrow. The parapet and corbel table of this part of the -building, and indeed throughout nearly the whole structure, are similar -to those of the choir, and in the later work have evidently been copied -from the earlier ones. In the transept the alterations are plainly seen -in the heightened portions of the north and south gables (see Figs. 229 -and 230), which are carried out with red freestone ashlar, and in the -details of the upper window of the north transept and the rose window of -the south transept, which are all of a later character than the Norman -work of the lower parts of the transept. In the south transept there may -also be noticed a pointed doorway (Fig. 231) built with party-coloured -stones, which has been inserted by cutting into the old Norman arcade of -the interior. This is distinctly seen in the elevation of the interior -(Fig. 232). Probably, when this was done, the older doorway which -existed at the east end of the nave south aisle, in the usual position -for access to the cloister, was built up, the intention of having a -cloister being abandoned. Some traces of the impost of the arch of the -original doorway, carved with Norman enrichments, may still be seen. - -[Illustration: FIG. 226.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Longitudinal Section from -West to East.] - -The two westmost bays of the nave (see Fig. 228) are built almost -entirely from top to bottom with red freestone, having a slight -admixture of white stone. This indicates a considerable alteration, and -it will be found that these two bays were rebuilt at a late period, when -a new west - -[Illustration: FIG. 227.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Section through Transept -from North to South.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 228.--Kirkwall Cathedral. North Elevation.] - -front was erected and the cathedral was extended westwards. It may be -mentioned that the cathedral stands alone in the middle of a large -churchyard. There are no other ecclesiastical structures connected with -it, such as cloisters or chapter house. The Bishop’s Palace,[168] -however, is not far off. It has been a fine stately edifice, but is now -greatly ruined. - -Before considering more minutely the order of construction of the -cathedral, it is desirable to glance at the conditions under which it -was designed and carried out. - -Under the rule of the Norsemen, in the ninth and tenth centuries, any -early symptoms of Christian influence which may have previously existed -in Orkney had died out. But after the conversion of the inhabitants of -Orkney to Christianity, about the year 1000, traces of Christian worship -became observable. The first actual Bishop of Orkney was William the -Old, who held the bishopric for sixty-six years, and died in 1168. He -must, therefore, have been consecrated in 1102. His see was first at -Birsay (see p. 135), but was removed to Kirkwall on the erection of the -cathedral in 1137-52. The Bishop of Orkney was one of the suffragans of -the metropolitan see of Throndhjeim, which was erected in 1154. It was -not till 1472 that the see was placed under the metropolitan Bishop of -St. Andrews. - -The possession of the Orkneys was sometimes divided between two -relatives. In the beginning of the twelfth century two cousins, Hacon -and Magnus, shared the government; but in 1115 the latter was -treacherously slain in the island of Egilsay by Hacon, who thus obtained -the whole earldom. - -Some time after, however, a new claimant for Magnus’ share arose in -Rognvald, the son of Magnus’ sister, who made a vow that if he succeeded -in establishing his claim he would erect a “stone minster” in honour of -his predecessor, St. Magnus, the latter having been canonised. Rognvald -was successful in his project, and immediately proceeded to fulfil his -vow by founding at Kirkwall a cathedral dedicated to St. Magnus. - -The building was designed and superintended by the Norwegian Kol, the -father of Rognvald, who had the principal oversight of the whole work. -The relics of St. Magnus were brought from Christ’s Kirk, in Birsay, to -be deposited in the cathedral as soon as it was ready to receive them; -but in the meantime they rested in the Church of St. Olaf, an older -edifice which then existed at Kirkwall.[169] - -The Cathedral of St. Magnus was thus designed and erected by a Norwegian -earl, while the bishopric was under the authority of the Norwegian -Metropolitan of Throndhjeim. It is thus practically a - -[Illustration: FIG. 229.--Kirkwall Cathedral. View of North Transept and -Choir.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 230.--Kirkwall Cathedral. View from South-East.] - -Norwegian edifice, and is by far the grandest monument of the rule of -the Norsemen in Orkney. - -In these circumstances, it is not to be expected that the architecture -should in every detail follow the contemporary styles which prevailed in - -[Illustration: FIG. 231.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Doorway in South -Transept.] - -Britain; but it is astonishing to find how closely the earlier parts -correspond with the architecture of Normandy, which was developed by a -kindred race--the successors of Rollo and his rovers, who settled in -that country at an earlier date. - -[Illustration: FIG. 232.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Interior of Doorway in -South Transept. The shaded voussoirs are of yellow and the remainder of -red freestone.] - -There can be little doubt that the Romanesque architecture which -prevailed in the North of Europe found its way at a comparatively late - -[Illustration: FIG. 233.--Kirkwall Cathedral. View of the Crossing from -the Nave.] - -date into Scandinavia. The Norman form of that style would naturally -follow the same course amongst the kindred races in Norway - -[Illustration: FIG. 234.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Choir, looking East.] - -and Denmark, just as it did in England and Scotland, and from Norway it -would be transplanted into Orkney. We find that the “transition” style -and pointed styles follow here a similar course to that observed in -other countries, although, no doubt, with certain modifications, such as -might be looked for at so great a distance from the centre of origin. - -Sir Henry Dryden, who has given a great deal of study to Kirkwall -Cathedral, finds the differences of the architecture there as compared -with that of England so great that the usual terms in England are not -applicable; but we believe that, with some allowances, the same general -stages of progress can be observed at St. Magnus’ as in the South. - -It is well known that French architects were sent for to carry out the -Cathedral of Upsala, while the architecture of the Cathedral of -Throndhjeim is English in character. A certain mixture of design is -traceable in the details of these northern structures, but the general -scope of the architecture follows that of the rest of Europe. - -The Cathedral of St. Magnus was, as above mentioned, begun by Earl -Rognvald in 1137, and was, doubtless, carried on with as great -expedition as possible. It was a gigantic work to be undertaken in this -situation at the time, and difficulty arose with regard to funds. This, -however, was overcome by allowing the proprietors of lands in Orkney to -redeem their property by a single payment of a sum per acre, paid at -once, instead of according to the usual practice, on each succession. - -The first parts of the cathedral built (shown by black tint on Plan) -were the three westmost or Norman bays of the choir, with their aisles, -both the transepts, the crossing (afterwards altered), intended to -receive a tower over it, and two bays of the nave, which served to form -an abutment for the crossing. These portions are all (where unaltered) -in the earliest style of Norman work in the edifice. The round piers and -responds of the choir, the two south piers and one north pier of the -nave (with their cushion caps) (Fig. 233), the main arches (with their -label mouldings in the choir and transept) (see Figs. 227 and 234), the -round arched and labelled windows in choir, transept, and nave (see Fig. -228), and the interlaced arcades in the latter (Fig. 235), all point to -a somewhat advanced period of Norman work. - -The choir originally terminated with a central apse beyond the third -pier (as shown by dotted line), but it is impossible to say whether the -side aisles also had apses, or whether the aisle was continued round the -apse. - -The Norman windows of the choir aisle have three external orders, with a -label ornament in the outer order. The single shafts have cushion caps, -and the windows are largely splayed internally. - -An interlacing arcade of round arches, with single shafts and cushion -caps (some with volutes), runs round the north, south, and west sides -of - -[Illustration: FIG. 235.--Kirkwall Cathedral. The Crossing and South -Transept.] - -the transept. (See Fig. 235). The large arches leading into the east -chapels were formed originally, but the chapels were built later. The -lower string course of the transept is enriched with a four-leaved -flower. (See Fig. 232.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 236.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Doorway in the North Aisle -of Nave, &c.] - -It seems likely that soon after the completion of the above portions -attention was given to the continuation of the nave westwards for -several bays. The piers have the same round form as the original ones, -but the caps are no longer octagonal, but round (see Figs. 224 and 233), -and instead of the cushion form, the caps are moulded. The north - -[Illustration: FIG. 237.--Kirkwall Cathedral. South Aisle of Nave.] - -aisle wall opposite the three bays, west from the crossing, would appear -to have been built early (see Figs. 228 and 229). The buttresses are of -the flat Norman form, the three eastmost windows are moulded in three -orders, with a label enrichment like the choir aisle windows, while the -two windows to the west of above, although round, have mouldings of a -first pointed character, and were, doubtless, finished at a later time -(see aisle window in Fig. 236). In the south aisle of the nave the east -window is similar to those of the north side, but the others, extending -as far as the south doorway, have, in the interior, mouldings indicating -a more advanced date. (Fig. 237.) Externally, these windows have been -restored. There would appear to have been a good deal of time spent over -these aisle walls extending as far as the north and south doorways, and -the main piers and arches within them were probably erected at the same -period. Both of the above aisle walls have a Norman interlacing arcade -(see Fig. 237) running along the interior below the windows. In these -arcades, and those of the transepts, various varieties of chevron -ornament occur. The north aisle doorway (see Fig. 236) is Norman in -detail, but seems to have been restored at a late date. The interior -mouldings are similar to those of the three west doorways. The doorway -in the south aisle retains its old Norman arch and shafts in the -interior, but has been altered externally (Fig. 238). The nave piers may -have been continued as far as the above doors about this time, together -with the triforium, but the upper part of the nave walls and the -vaulting are later. - -After the Norman period above described, a distinct change of style is -observable. This is prominently seen in the piers and arches of the -crossing (see Figs. 233 and 235), which are of an advanced transition -style, and appear to have been introduced in lieu of the old Norman -piers. Possibly, however, the older piers are preserved and encased in -the new. The latter (Fig. 239) are arranged in the form of clustered -shafts, approaching first pointed in plan. The bases and caps of the -shafts are of transition character, being very like those of Jedburgh -Abbey, a good transition example. Some, however, have a tendency to -foliage, but all are much damaged. The arches are in distinct orders, -like first pointed work, and the inner order of those next the nave and -choir is enriched with a large boldly relieved chevron ornament (see -Fig. 233). The windows in the choir nearest the main arches of the -crossing, and the triforium openings into the transept, appear to have -been altered and rebuilt at the time of this operation. The upper part -of the north transept was probably raised and its windows inserted at -this time, as they are of transition character; but the raising of the -south transept and introduction of the rose window in it is of a -somewhat later date. This circular window (see Fig. 235) is very similar -to that in the east window of the choir. The chapels on the east side of -the transept are also of the transition period. Both internally, -including the vaulting, and externally, including the pointed windows -(see Figs. 229 and 230), the work of these chapels is very advanced -transition in style. Of course, it must be understood that the style is -referred to, not the date. The transition style may not have penetrated -to Orkney till a long time after it had been abandoned further south, -possibly not till the middle of the thirteenth century. The space -between the south chapel and the choir aisle has been built up and -formed into a small vaulted chamber, which has no - -[Illustration: FIG. 238.--Kirkwall Cathedral. South Doorway of Nave.] - -opening communicating with the chamber in the south chapel. It enters -from a window in the aisle changed into a door. The use of this chamber -is unknown. The large windows in the triforium of the transept, -adjoining the crossing, are cut across by the aisle roofs. This arises -from the aisle roofs having been raised at a late period. The vaulting -of the original choir, and the vaulting shafts, with their corbels (see -Section, Fig. 226), probably also belong to the transition period. - -The completion of the nave, as far as the original west wall, was -probably next undertaken. The piers (as above mentioned), although round -on plan like the original ones, have round moulded caps like those -further east. The arches over the piers were, no doubt, executed at the - -[Illustration: FIG. 239.--Kirkwall Cathedral.] - -same time, and the triforium carried up. The latter consists of three -orders of plain arches, with chamfer on edge, except some on the north -side, which have a bead and fillet on edge, thus indicating a somewhat -advanced date. - -It is not easy to say when the clerestory and vaulting of the nave were -executed; but, from the circumstance that the clerestory is built with -whitish stone, similar to the raised part of the clerestory of the -choir, we are inclined to believe that it was carried out about the -same period as the heightening and vaulting of the choir, to be -afterwards referred to. - -Steps are introduced at the bottom of the nave triforium arches, which, -however, can scarcely be seen from below. Their object is to raise the -floor of the triforium, so as to give height for the aisle vaults. - -The next alteration of the cathedral effected a complete revolution in -the eastern portion of the edifice. The apse was taken down, and the -choir, with its aisles, was extended by three bays to the eastward. (See -Fig. 234.) The junction of the extended work with the old is quite -apparent in the large pier on the left. - -The style of this extension of the choir has in many points a strong -resemblance to advanced first pointed work, but it exhibits some -peculiarities of detail. The piers of the new bays consist of clustered -shafts, but the arrangement of the shafts is peculiar, having rounds and -hollows passing into one another, and with fillets on edge, more like -decorated work than first pointed. The bases are of early form, and the -caps, which generally resemble first pointed work, have also features -which recall the French “Crochet caps” of the period. - -Possibly some of the Frenchmen engaged at Upsala or Throndhjeim may have -been brought over to the work at St. Magnus’, and have here left the -mark of their French extraction. Some of the caps, which have a square -abacus, have small leaves introduced at the junction of the circle with -the square--an arrangement common in bases, but very unusual in -capitals. (See Main Pier, Fig. 240.) - -The main arches over the piers (see Fig. 234) are not pointed, but -semi-circular (a form of common occurrence in Scotland). Otherwise the -sections of the mouldings, and the arrangement of the orders in distinct -divisions, are quite first pointed in style. - -The triforium consists of plain chamfered semi-circular arches and jambs -in three orders, with plain impost mouldings, being a continuation of -the design of the triforium of the earlier part of the choir. - -The clerestory has simple pointed windows, moulded on sconsion, but -without cusps, at the same level as the Norman windows in the western -part of the choir. - -A vaulting shaft is carried up between the piers. It springs from the -pier caps, and is very small up to the triforium, where it thickens and -runs up to the triforium caps, and above that point is carried up as a -triple shaft to the cap which receives the springing of the vault. - -The clerestory windows appear to have been built before the vaulting was -arranged, seeing that they are placed very low in the red part of the -wall. But when the vaulting was designed, it was found desirable to -raise the walls so as to get proper height for the arches. This was done -in whitish stone, and shows distinctly on the exterior, as above stated. -A row of Norman corbels on the north side marks the original height of -the clerestory wall. These corbels appear to have been moved from the -Norman part of the choir, and inserted in their present position when -the choir - -[Illustration: FIG. 240.--Kirkwall Cathedral. East End of South Aisle of -Choir.] - -was lengthened. A few corbels remain in their original position on the -south side of the choir. The vaulting of the old part of the choir was -also altered at the time when the new vaulting was built. The design of -the extended choir aisles corresponds with that of the choir, and is -very beautiful, though somewhat foreign in character. (See Fig. 240.) -The ribs of the choir and aisle vaults have all bold sections of first -pointed form. - -The east end of the cathedral is of this period. The great east window -(see Fig. 234) fills the whole space available. This window, including -its mouldings, measures (according to Sir H. Dryden) 37 feet 2½ inches -by 16 feet 7½ inches. It is well designed, and has side shafts of first -pointed form, while the tracery is perhaps a little more advanced. The -great rose in the arch, which expands over the whole of the mullions and -arches of the tracery, is (as pointed out by Sir H. Dryden) quite -peculiar and unique. The three-arched recesses under the east window -indicate that the altar stood free from the wall. On the exterior, the -junction of the new buttresses with the old Norman ones is distinctly -seen. (See Fig. 230.) The former are of red freestone, and project with -water tables in stages, while the latter are flat and shallow. The side -windows have plain splays in the jambs, and have no caps, one -round-headed window on the south side has two lights, and a doorway is -formed beneath it. A large base course goes round the choir and marks -the new work. It is also continued round the transept chapels at a lower -level. Besides the raising of the clerestory walls, above referred to, -the aisle walls of the choir have also been raised. On the north side -(see Fig. 229) this is effected by leaving the old parapet and building -a second parapet above it, while on the south side (see Fig. 230) the -old parapet has been removed and the wall heightened with red ashlar, -and a new parapet placed at the higher level. Several square windows -have been cut in the lower part of the north choir wall. These are -modern, and are not shown in the sketch. Their object is to admit light -under a gallery which has been inserted in the north aisle. The floor of -the choir has been raised, and is now reached by several steps from the -transept; but the steps to the sanctuary are believed to have been where -shown on the plan. As already mentioned, the clerestory and vaulting of -the six eastmost bays of the nave was probably executed soon after the -choir was finished, the outer wall of the clerestory being built with -the same whitish stone as the heightened part of the choir. The windows -are small and of plain-pointed form, like those of the choir. Some of -them have the appearance of having been cut up into the vaulting, as if -they had been inserted or heightened after the vaulting was built. It is -to be remarked that while the parapets of the nave and choir are on the -same level on the exterior, the vaulting of the nave is several feet -lower than that of the choir. - -The three western doorways (Fig. 241) and the pointed doorway in the -south transept (see Fig. 231) must be assigned to a period rather later -than the choir. The wall containing the three west doorways is built -out - -[Illustration: FIG. 241.--Kirkwall Cathedral. West Doorways.] - -of the square with the nave walls. It is supposed to have been erected -outside the church, with the view of lengthening it, while the original -west front stood at a point distant one bay from it. The new west wall -seems to have been left unfinished for a considerable time, the upper -part of the west front having, from its style, evidently been built at a -much later period than the doorways. When the new west wall was -completed, the old west front would be removed. This necessitated the -building of the westmost pair of piers. While this operation was in -progress, the next pair of piers and arch above have yielded, and the -piers remain much inclined to the west. - -[Illustration: FIG. 242.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Interior of West -Doorways.] - -The three west doorways and that in the south transept are specially -remarkable from their presenting probably the finest examples in Great -Britain of the use of coloured stones in the construction. This is -chiefly observable in the exterior, but is also carried out in the -interior of these doorways (Fig. 242). The north doorway (Fig. 245) and -central doorway (Fig. 244) of the west front have the colours arranged -in concentric rings in the arches, red and yellow alternating. In the -south doorway (Fig. 243) the same colours radiate and alternate, and in -the doorway of the south transept the red and yellow stones are arranged -chequerwise. (See Fig. 231.) Fig. 246 shows the plan of the central -doorway. - -[Illustration: FIG. 243.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Plan and Elevation of -South Doorway of West End.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 244.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Elevation at Central -Doorway of West End.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 245.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Plan and Elevation of -North Doorway of West End.] - -The shafts have all been detached, as shown in the plans. They have been -renewed; but, as Sir H. Dryden suggests, no doubt correctly, they were -probably at first in red and yellow stone alternately. - -The caps have been very elaborately carved with foliage, which is now -much decayed. It looks later than the enrichments of the arches, which -consist of early ornaments, such as the dog-tooth and chevron, much -undercut. These enrichments, and the foliage which ran up the jambs of -the doorway, are now greatly decayed, especially the portions carved in -the yellow stone. In the case of the south transept doorway, the -stonework, which is much wasted, has been roughly repaired with cement. -The central doorway has five orders of mouldings, and the north and -south doorways four orders. The south transept doorway has also four -orders. - -[Illustration: FIG. 246.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Plan of Central Doorway of -West End.] - -Notwithstanding the damage they have sustained, these doorways are still -amongst the most charming portions of the edifice; and, as regards the -coloured decoration of their masonry, they stand almost alone in this -country. - -In the interior the west doorways and responds of piers (Fig. 242) are -constructed with alternate bands of red and yellow stone, and the -sconsion moulding is enriched with a ball ornament. The sconsion of the -doorway of the north nave aisle has a similar enrichment, showing that -it must have been restored at a late date, as already mentioned. - -The buttresses between the west doorways are, so far as original, also -carried up in alternate red and yellow courses. (See Fig. 241.) The -upper part of the gablet over the centre doorway is of the seventeenth -century, and bears the shield of Sir George Hay of Kinfauns, who rented -the lands of the bishopric in the beginning of the seventeenth century. -A crozier is added to the shield in connection with the lands of the -see. (See enlarged sketch in Fig. 244.) - -The upper part of the west front is of late construction, having -probably been carried out when the two west bays of the nave were built. -These bays, as above mentioned, were added to the cathedral at a late -period, and are almost entirely built with red freestone. The piers are -designed in imitation of the old nave piers, but the caps and bases have -different mouldings, and the plinth of the base is round, while that of -the older bases is square. (See Fig. 242.) - -The triforium and clerestory are also constructed in imitation of the -older parts of the nave. The three west bays of the nave and two bays of -the aisles remained without vaulting till they were covered with the -present wooden vaults, when the building was repaired by the Government -in 1848. - -The aisle windows in these bays are narrow, and have trefoiled cusped -heads, being the only cusping in the cathedral (see Fig. 236), except -those in the large round windows. - -The parapet of the north side of the nave is evidently a very late piece -of work. It is supported on large trefoil ornaments, or inverted -fleurs-de-lys, cut square into the wall, without chamfer or moulding. -(See Fig. 236.) - -This ornament extends along the six eastmost bays of the nave, the two -westmost bays having a plain parapet on the same level. On the south -side of the nave the aisle wall has been raised with red ashlar (like -the choir south wall), and an ordinary parapet placed above it. - -The buttresses in the west part of the north side of the nave are of a -late pattern, with two set-offs, and those on the south side of the nave -have been repaired and altered. - -In the south side of the nave a new exterior doorway (see Fig. 238) has -been substituted for the old Norman doorway, the shafts and arch of the -latter remaining in the interior. The new doorway is said to have been -inserted by Bishop Reid in the sixteenth century. This is the same -Bishop whom we meet with as Prior of Beauly and Abbot of Kinloss -(_q.v._) - -The doorway has the late form of a three-sided arch, and the mouldings -are those common at the period (sixteenth century). In the centre of the -lintel is the shield for a coat of arms, now obliterated, but a mitre is -still traceable. A benitier adjoins the doorway, and there seems to have -been a wooden porch or awning over it. - -The tower over the crossing (see Fig. 230) has been considerably -operated upon in modern times. The old wooden spire was destroyed by -lightning in 1671, and the tower consequently required repairs. The -parapet and pinnacles are modern, as also the pointed and slated roof; -but the lower part seems to be of considerable age (see Section, Fig. -227). The part within the roof of the church is apparently of transition -date, and the upper part, with the large pointed windows, is probably of -fifteenth century work. - -An unusually wide wheel stair leads from the north-west and south-west -angles of the transept to the upper parts of the edifice. These stairs -are connected with passages which circulate all round the clerestory and -triforium in the thickness of the walls (Fig. 247), and give access to -every part of the building. They also pass round the tower at each -story, and are connected with small wheel stairs in the angles, by one -of which access is obtained to the roof. - -There would appear to have been, at one time, numerous fine monuments in -the cathedral, but they have all disappeared. - -An arched recess, with a gablet over it, in the south nave aisle (see -Fig. 237) is now empty, but is supposed, by Sir H. Dryden, to have been -erected for some member of the family of the Strathernes, Earls of -Orkney. - -The altar tomb of Bishop Tulloch, who died soon after 1455, stood -between the two eastmost pillars of the choir. It was a handsome -erection, and appears to have had a canopy, but not a fragment now -exists. A stone cist was discovered between the two east piers of the -choir (north side) during the repairs in 1848. It contained a skeleton -doubled up, and an ivory crozier and a plate of lead inscribed, “Hic -requiescit Wilialmus senex felicis memorie,” and on the back “primus -episcopus.” Bishop William the old died in 1168. The cist and bones were -carted away with the rubbish in 1856, but the ivory staff handle and the -lead plate are preserved in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries at -Edinburgh. - -Numerous slabs, with inscriptions of the seventeenth century, have been -erected against the nave walls. - -At one time the cathedral possessed some fine specimens of woodwork. The -canopy over the Bishop’s throne (shown by Billings) has now disappeared. - -The alms dishes, which are of brass, 2 feet 5 inches diameter, are of -Dutch workmanship of the seventeenth century. They are large and fine of -their kind. - -The tower contains four bells. Three of these were given by Bishop -Maxwell. The great bell (3 feet 5½ inches diameter and 2 feet 9 inches -high) has, on a raised shield, the Bishop’s arms, a saltier, with -annulet in centre, and under it “NLTAS.” Also the following -inscription:--“Made by Master Robbert Maxvell, Bischop of Orkney the -yaer of God MDXXVIII the year of the reign of King James the V., Robert -Borthwik made mein the castel of Edinbrugh.” There is also in a -medallion, containing in seven lines, the following:--“Taken et brought -againe heir by Alexander Geddus marchant in Kirkwa and recasten at -Amsterdam Jully 1682 years by Claudius Fremy city bell caster. It weighs -1450 P.” On a medallion, a figure with a sword, and, under it SCT -MAGNVS. The latter inscription shows that this bell was sent to -Amsterdam - -[Illustration: FIG. 247.--Kirkwall Cathedral. Plan at Level of -Clerestory.] - -to be recast, which was required, in consequence of a crack or rift -having occurred in it. - -The second bell (3 feet 1 inch diameter and 2 feet 5 inches high) bears -the following inscription in black letters:--“Maid be maister robert -maxvell bischop of Orknay in ye secund yier of his consecration in the -zier of god Im Vc XXVIII zeiris ye XV zier of ye reign of King James V.” -On a medallion is a figure with a sword, and, under it, “Sanctus -Magnus.” Below, “robert borthvik.” Also, on a medallion, the arms of -Scotland, and on another, the arms of Maxwell, and on another part, -“Ihs.” - -The first bell is 2 feet 9 inches diameter and 2 feet 5 inches high. The -inscription, in black letters, raised in three lines, is, “Maid be -maister robert maxvel byschop of Orknay, ye secund zeir of his -consecration ye zeir of gode Im Vc XXVIII zeirs ye XV zeir of Kyng James -y V. be robert borthvik maid al thre in ye castel of Edynbrugh.” There -are also, on a medallion, a figure of St. Magnus, on a shield the arms -of Maxwell, as before, and on another part, “Ihs.” Robert Borthwick, -above mentioned, was master gunner to King James IV. - -The fourth bell is small (1 foot 8 inches diameter and 1 foot 4 inches -high), and is not hung. (See description of St. Magnus by Sir Henry E. -L. Dryden, Bart.) - -The fabric of the cathedral does not appear to have suffered at the time -of the Reformation, but in 1606 an attempt was made by the Earl of -Caithness to destroy it. This happened during the rebellion of E. -Patrick Stewart, who had taken possession of the Tower, and used it as a -place of strength. The demolition was, however, prevented by the -intervention of Bishop Law. - -The building would appear, in 1701, to have received very improper usage -at the hands of the Town Guard, who occupied it as a public place, -shooting guns and “drinking, fiddling, piping, swearing and cursing -night and day” within the church, and so rendering it unfit for public -worship. Great repairs were required in the early part of this century, -and the Government, under the belief that the cathedral was Crown -property, expended a good deal of money in putting it in good condition -in 1848. It was afterwards discovered that the building belonged to the -town, when the local authorities took possession of it and replaced in -the choir the galleries which had been removed. The choir still -continues to be used as the parish church. - - -ST. BLANE’S CHURCH, BUTE. - -This interesting ruin stands in a remote valley near the south end of -the island of Bute, being about three miles south from the parish church -of Kingarth. The site is at a considerable elevation, and commands a -fine view of the hills of Arran to the south. A lofty and precipitous -wooded hill shelters the valley from the northwards. The building stands -on a slightly elevated platform, enclosed with a retaining wall. This -enclosure forms an upper churchyard, while another enclosure below it -forms a lower churchyard. In former times the upper burial-ground was -reserved for men, and the lower one for women. - -At first sight the structure at once impresses one as being a Norman -building (Fig. 248), from the style of the masonry of the lofty central -wall and the east end, which stand out prominently from amongst the -ruins. On closer inspection, the church is found to consist (Fig. 249) -of an oblong nave, 50 feet 6 inches in length internally by 16 feet 8 -inches in width, and a chancel, 26 feet 3 inches long by 13 feet 11 -inches wide, separated by the lofty wall above referred to. The latter -contains a chancel arch, 5 feet 3 inches in width. - -The masonry of the nave is undoubtedly Norman, being in courses of -carefully-dressed freestone, with upright joints all breaking band. The -west wall has, on account of the slope of the ground, been brought up -from a depth of several feet below the level of the floor, and the lower -portion is thickened, and has exterior set-offs about the floor level. A -base of peculiar form is carried round the building. (See Figs. 248 and -249.) The side and west walls are now reduced to a few feet in height, -and there thus remains no trace of any windows. There have been two -entrance doorways, opposite one another, in the north and south walls -near the west end, of which only some fragments remain. - -The chancel arch (Fig. 250) is of good Norman design. On the side next -the nave it is in two orders, the inner order having a simple linear or, -perhaps, bird’s-beak enrichment, and the outer order is enriched with -two series of chevrons, one on the face and the other on the soffit, -which leave on the angle a raised lozenge form between them. The arch is -enclosed with a label of three-sided section, enriched with a lozenge -pattern, and having a small Greek cross in the centre of the arch. Each -order rests on the cap of a shaft, the inner shafts being half-rounds, -and the outer shafts complete cylinders set in nooks; but these shafts -have now disappeared. The caps vary in design, but are of good Norman -character. - -The bases are much decayed. The abacus of the shafts forms a string -course, which was continued round the interior of the nave. It is carved -with a saltier-like ornament. A similar string course probably ran round -the exterior of the nave. The side of the arch next the chancel is -plain, the outer order only having a simple roll on the edge. (See Fig. -248.) The central wall between the nave and chancel is in good -preservation, and is carried up with freestone courses resembling the -ashlar work of the nave; but the work is coarse, and has probably been -rebuilt. Three buttresses, built with whinstone, have been erected at a -late period against the south wall of the nave, which seems to have -shown signs of weakness. - -[Illustration: FIG. 248. St. Blane’s Church. From North-East.] - -The Norman masonry of the nave extends both on the north and south sides -for about 13 feet into the chancel, when it stops suddenly against a -whinstone wall. A fragment of the Norman string course is traceable on -the exterior of the north wall at the west end, and the same base as -that of the nave runs along this Norman part of the chancel. There are -the remains of a doorway in the south wall. - -The remainder or eastern portions of the side walls of the choir are -composed in their lower part of whinstone rubble work (both on the -exterior and interior), while the upper portions of the side walls are -built with freestone, similar to that used in the nave, but executed -with very inferior workmanship, especially as regards the jointing and -coursing of - -[Illustration: FIG. 249.--St. Blane’s Church. Plan.] - -the stones. The lower rubble portions of the side walls contain no -openings, but the upper freestone portions contain windows. The window -in the north wall (see Fig. 248) is a single-pointed light, with -freestone ingoings and sconsion arch. There has at one time been a -similar one-light window in the south wall, but at a later date a -two-light window has been introduced instead of it. The latter being -placed at a higher level than the former, part of the older window still -remains below the sill of the later one. The older windows in the side -walls are moulded on the jambs; the later one is splayed. A piscina has -also been inserted in the south wall close to the window. - -The eastern wall of the chancel, like the east portions of the side -walls, has the lower part built with whinstone rubble, and the upper -portion with freestone. As the ground slopes to the east, the east end -wall is carried deeper than the side walls. The lower portion (which -extends also for a short way along the north and south sides) is brought -up with whinstone rubble for about two feet (see Fig. 248), when a - -[Illustration: FIG. 250.--St. Blane’s Church. Chancel Arch.] - -freestone splayed base (quite different from, and at a lower level than, -that of the nave) is laid above it. The wall over the base is carried up -in the interior with whinstone rubble for nearly four feet (see Fig. -250), and on the exterior with rubble mixed with freestone for two -courses. Above this the wall is built in the interior for two courses, -and in the exterior for four courses, with carefully-constructed and -jointed freestone blocks, similar to those of the nave walls. A set-off -occurs on the exterior above these courses. The upper part of the wall -and the exterior of the gable are composed of freestone, built -irregularly, like the upper portions of the side walls. The upper -portion of the interior is of similar work up to the top of the windows, -above which it is of rubble work. - -In the east wall there are two single-light pointed windows, similar to -the window in the north wall. They have the same mouldings, and similar -sconsion arches. The inner sills are stepped in three courses. An ambry -is inserted in the east wall. - -There is some difficulty in explaining the sequence of the construction, -and the comparative dates of all the different portions of the chancel. - -In a paper by Mr. William Galloway, in the _Archæologia Scotica_, Vol. -V. p. 217, a very interesting and ingenious theory is propounded -thereanent. It is there supposed that the whinstone rubble work is -actually a portion of an ancient chapel erected at a very early date, -and that the Norman work was built around it, in order, so far as -possible, to preserve the venerable remains of the primitive structure. -This, it is pointed out, would explain the finely coursed work which -occurs above the rubble work on the exterior and interior of the east -end wall and adjoining portions of the north and south walls. As regards -the inferior freestone work of the upper part of the walls, it is -assumed that these are the result of an alteration which took place in -the thirteenth century. - -If this theory were correct, it would enhance very greatly the interest -of the structure, not only by the extreme antiquity it would assign to -it, but also by proving the great veneration with which it was regarded, -and the unusual tenderness with which it was treated by the twelfth -century builders. - -It must, however, be confessed that an inspection of the building does -not tend to confirm the theory. Several points arise which do not appear -to be met by it, such as--(1) How does the splayed freestone base of the -east end happen to be laid in the middle of the rubble work? Such a base -is practically unknown in ancient Celtic structures. (2) On the north -wall of the choir a string course and moulded base exist in the Norman -portion, and have apparently run along the outside. Would these simply -be butted against the supposed ancient rubble work, or how would they be -terminated? (3) Is it at all consistent with the usual action of Norman -builders to leave small fragments of ancient rubble work and incorporate -them in their structures? Or was it not, on the contrary, their -invariable practice to remove such early work? Is it not more reasonable -to suppose that the different styles of work which are seen here are -the result of alterations and repairs? A study of the building itself -certainly tends to strengthen that impression. After a careful -inspection of the structure, one feels it impossible to believe that the -different portions of the work were other than the result of alteration -and patching. It is admitted that the matter is rather puzzling; but we -venture to make the following suggestions as to the history of the -building. - -The chancel was probably all built originally in the Norman style of its -existing west half. Some accident overtook it, and the east half was -demolished. In rebuilding it whinstone rubble work was chiefly used, but -a splayed freestone base course was inserted, where it still remains. -The Norman-like courses above the rubble work were derived from the old -materials of the demolished Norman portion, and were reused without -alteration, as nearly as possible, in the same manner as originally. - -It is generally supposed that the imperfect work of the upper portions -of the walls is of thirteenth century date, but it is more probably much -later. The irregular and inferior workmanship alone seems to prove that, -and the windows are of a form which might belong to any date. The -sconsion arches are not unlike those of the church at Rothesay, which is -not earlier than the end of the fifteenth century. - - -DALMENY CHURCH, LINLITHGOWSHIRE. - -This edifice is the completest of our Norman parish churches, consisting -(Fig. 251) of a chancel with eastern apse and a nave or main building, -separated from the chancel by an elaborate chancel arch. As usual in -parish churches of this period, there are no aisles. Although the above -divisions are complete, the church has not entirely escaped alterations -and additions. On the north side projecting wings have been added, which -contain a gallery and a north porch, and staircase leading to the -gallery. The south front and east end are, however, almost untouched, -and show the work of the twelfth century, uninjured save by natural -decay. - -The church stands beside the quiet and pleasant rural village of -Dalmeny, about one mile inland from South Queensferry, and about eight -miles west from Edinburgh. Little is known of its history. A charter is -signed by Robert Avenel, “parson of Dumanie,” about 1166-82, and in the -thirteenth century, during the reign of William or Alexander II., the -church was granted to the monks of Jedworth. It is believed to have been -dedicated to St. Adamnan,[170] and the fact of the neighbouring church -of Cramond being dedicated to St. Columba tends to confirm this belief, -as it has been pointed out by Dr. Skene that these two saints’ names -are generally found together in the dedication of churches. - -The edifice consists of a nave 42 feet long by 18 feet wide, with a -projection in the south wall, which contains the doorway. It has three -small windows in the south wall. In the interior of the south wall there -is a recess, now linteled over, which may have contained a monument. - -[Illustration: FIG. 251.--Dalmeny Church. Plan.] - -From the rough nature of the masonry at the west end of the nave, a -tower would appear to have been intended to be built there. Part of the -commencement of its side walls exists, and into these the two buttresses -shown on Plan have been toothed or joined at a later period. - -The nave (Fig. 252) opens to the chancel with a splendid chancel arch, -having three orders decorated with elaborate chevron ornaments, enclosed -with a hood moulding carved with an enrichment somewhat resembling the -dog-tooth (Fig. 253). The soffit of the arch contains a similar faceted -enrichment. The arch is carried on three attached shafts on each side, -built in ashlar, and provided with subdivided cushion caps and plain -bases. - -[Illustration: FIG. 253.] - -The chancel (Fig. 254) is 16 feet long by 15 feet wide, and is vaulted -with bold diagonal groin-ribs, enriched with chevron ornaments and -springing from grotesque corbels (Fig. 255). It has one small window on -the south side, with plain splay in the ingoing and plain sconsions and -arch. - -The apse is semi-circular, and is entered from the chancel by an - -[Illustration: FIG. 252.--Dalmeny Church. Nave, looking East.] - -enriched arch (see Fig. 254). The arch has two orders carved with -chevron ornaments and a hood mould with faceted enrichment. The shafts -and caps are similar to those of the chancel arch. The apse is vaulted -like a single square bay, with boldly moulded groin-ribs springing from -large corbels carved with grotesque heads (Figs. 256 and 257). The wall -is of - -[Illustration: FIG. 254.--Dalmeny Church. View of Apse from Chancel.] - -plain ashlar, and the apse is lighted by three plain window openings -(Fig. 258), the central one of which has been enlarged. - -The exterior of the church (Fig. 259) is built with the usual cubic -ashlar of the period. All the windows in the building (Fig. 260) have a -single pair of shafts with cushion or carved caps, and an arch, of one -order, carved with chevron ornament, and a hood mould enriched with -faceted patterns. The choir and apse have a boldly projected cornice -supported on corbels carved with grotesque heads. The choir has the side -walls carried up in the form of a parapet above the cornice, having -evidently been raised at some period to the same height externally as -the nave. A string course runs round the building immediately below the -windows, of which it forms the sills. It is enriched with a carved -floral pattern. - -The doorway (Fig. 261) is placed in a projecting part of the south wall, -and is surmounted by an arcade of interlacing arches, with corbel course -above, carved with grotesque heads. - -The doorway has two nook shafts on each side, the outer one round - -[Illustration: FIG. 255.--Dalmeny Church. Corbels.] - -and the inner one octagonal. These are detached and in single stones. -They carry enriched caps, three of them having foliage and volutes -imitated from the Roman, and one with traces of an animal. A string -course, enriched with scrolls, forms an abacus above the caps, and from -the abacus spring the arch mouldings in two orders, with carved hood -mould beyond. - -The inner order of arches contains thirteen voussoirs, each of which is -sculptured with a figure. These figures (Fig. 262) are very similar to -those often found on the ancient sculptured monuments of Scotland, and -have also considerable analogy with the figures carved on the Norman -churches of England and on the Continent, thus indicating (as pointed -out in the Introduction) the connection between the former and the -latter. Commencing at the right-hand voussoir of the inner order, we -have (No. 1) a clear representation of the Agnus Dei, bearing the cross -in sign of victory; No. 2 seems to represent a serpent, possibly with a -human head; No. 3 represents a winged quadruped with a bird’s head; No. -4, a lion (a favourite emblem both in Norman work and Scottish -monuments); Nos. 5 and 6 are too much decayed to be intelligible; No. 7 -seems - -[Illustration: FIG. 256.--Dalmeny Church. View from the Apse, looking -West.] - -to be a hare running and an animal with scrolled tail at rest; No. 8, a -winged bird and serpent; No. 9, a winged dragon with tail passing into a -divided scroll, part of which it is biting with its bill; No. 10, a -winged griffin; No. 11, a bird with a fish’s tail pecking at a serpent; -No. 12, two - -[Illustration: FIG. 257.--Dalmeny Church.] - -seated human figures clasping hands; No. 13, a nondescript bird and -serpent. - -[Illustration: FIG. 258.--Window in Apse.] - -The outer order of the arch contains eight projecting heads of grotesque -form, but some of them much decayed. Alternating with these heads are -voussoirs carved with figures somewhat similar to those of the inner -order. These, so far as can be made out, are--No. 1, a man with a pair -of horses; No. 2, a lion, perhaps crowned; No. 3 seems to represent a -number of darts radiating from a centre; No. 4, a centaur or Sagittarius -shooting an arrow at an undefined object; No. 5, two seated - -[Illustration: FIG. 259.--Dalmeny Church. From South-East.] - -figures, one holding a spear or pastoral staff. At each side of the -arch, and resting on the string course, are two detached figures, which -recall the figures similarly placed at Whithorn Priory. That on the -right represents a man holding a spear, that on the left, although -apparently a human figure, is too far gone to be clearly made out. - -This doorway is particularly interesting from being, as we believe, the -only example in Scotland of similar well-preserved sculptures upon a -church. In England, as pointed out by Mr. Romilly Allen, sculpture - -[Illustration: FIG. 260.--Dalmeny Church. Window in Nave and Choir.] - -of this description is common on Norman structures after 1135, -especially on doorways and fonts. It is difficult to form an idea of the -meaning of many of these sculptured figures, occurring, as they do, in -the strangest juxtaposition. On this point Mr. Romilly Allen -observes[171] that “one of the most remarkable features in Norman -sculpture is the way in which the Agnus Dei is associated with what -appears to us to be the most incongruous surroundings, such as animals, -serpents, and a bird at Parwich in Derbyshire; animals and a figure -holding a pastoral staff at Hagnaston in Derbyshire; a tree with birds -and Sagittarius and Leo at Stoke Subhampton in Somersetshire, &c.” Such -descriptions would well apply - -[Illustration: FIG. 261.--Dalmeny Church. Doorway.] - -to the doorway of Dalmeny Church, where we have associated with the -Agnus Dei, Leo, Sagittarius, serpents, birds, dragons, and human -figures, one, perhaps, bearing a pastoral staff. - -Numerous similar figures may be also seen on the sculptured monuments - -[Illustration: FIG. 262.--Dalmeny Church. Figures on Inner and Outer -Orders of Doorway Arch.] - -of Scotland, and thus a connection is observed between these remarkable -erections and the sculpture of Norman buildings, which brings the -earlier monuments into close connection with the later, and provides -them a place in the general history of art in the country. Sculptures of -a similar description have, at one time, existed at Dunfermline and -Jedburgh, but they are now too far wasted away to be intelligible. - - -LEUCHARS CHURCH, FIFESHIRE. - -Situated four and a half miles from St. Andrews, and one mile from -Leuchars Railway Junction, this church, like that of Dalmeny, forms one -of the best-preserved examples of our parish churches of the Norman -period. Though not complete, like Dalmeny, the choir and apse of -Leuchars, which alone remain, are even more richly decorated with the - -[Illustration: FIG. 203.--Leuchars Church. Plan.] - -characteristic ornaments of the style than the former. As usual, the -church is without aisles. - -It is scarcely possible to ascertain the date of these early structures, -but we find from the registry of the Priory of St. Andrews that the -Ecclesia de Lochres existed in the year 1187. There are letters by -Orabile, Countess of Mar, attesting that she was present when her -father, - -[Illustration: FIG. 264.--Leuchars Church. View from North-East.] - -Nes, the son of William, gave the Church of Leuchars, in Fife (Lochres), -to the Canons of St. Andrews, 1171-1199. - -Orabile was married to Robert de Quinci. Between 1210 and 1219 Syer de -Quinci, Earl of Winchester, gave to the Canons of St. Andrews three -merks of silver yearly from his mill of Leuchars for the souls of his - -[Illustration: FIG. 265.--Leuchars Church. 1. Details of Apse. 2. -Details of Choir. 3. Corbel in Apse.] - -grandfather and grandmother, of his father, Robert de Quinci, and his -mother, Orabile.[172] - -The church (Fig. 263) now consists of a choir, 19 feet 9 inches long by -18 feet wide, with a circular apse, 12 feet 6 inches wide and 12 feet -deep. There are traces of an arch at the west end of the choir, which -opened into the nave; but the latter is now rebuilt. - -[Illustration: FIG. 266.--Leuchars Church. Interior of Apse.] - -The general view (Fig. 264) shows the exterior of the semi-circular -apse, with its arcade of two stories, the shafts of the upper tier -resting on the arches of the lower one, and all the shafts bearing -cushion caps. Those of the lower story are double shafts, and those of -the upper story are double - -[Illustration: FIG. 267.--Leuchars Church. Exterior of Choir, &c.] - -shafts, with a broad fillet between them. All the arches are enriched -with chevron and billet mouldings, and the upper tier has an extra order -of elaborate billet-work. The string course between the two arcades is -carved with zig-zags (Fig. 265). The cornice is supported on a series of -boldly-carved grotesque heads, all varying in design. - -On the top of the apse vault there has been built, in the seventeenth -century, an incongruous turret, which, although not of bad design, is -extremely out of place. To support this belfry, a plain arch has been -introduced in the interior amongst the Norman work of the apse. (Fig. -266.) - -The design of the exterior of the choir (Fig. 267) is similar to that of -the apse, there being two arcades, one above the other, surmounted by a -cornice, with corbels carved as grotesque heads. The lower arcade, -however, has interlacing arches (see Fig. 265), which indicate a late -period of the style. The two arcades are separated by a string course, -enriched with scroll floral ornament. - -In the interior (see Fig. 266) attention is drawn to the elaborate -carving of the chancel arch, which has two orders of complex chevron -ornament, and an outer order or hood mould of four rows of billets. The -soffit of the arch is also enriched with chevrons, so arranged as to -form a row of lozenge ornaments in the centre. The chancel arch is -carried on a central attached shaft and two plain nook shafts, built in -courses, with simple cushion caps and plain bases. - -The chancel is vaulted with heavy moulded groins, springing from the -cushion caps of short single shafts resting on grotesque heads. (See -Fig. 265.) A small window is introduced in each of the divisions formed -by the shafts, and each window has a pair of nook shafts in the interior -and enriched arch above. The lower part of the apse is plain, and is -separated from the upper part by a string course, enriched with faceted -ornaments. - - -BUNKLE CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. - -There exist in Berwickshire the remains of a number of Norman churches -which, unfortunately, are very fragmentary. This is the more to be -regretted, as the portions still remaining of some of them show that -they must have been equal, if not superior, in richness of detail to -most of the better preserved specimens in other parts of the country. -The fragments at Edrom and Legerwood are of the finest Norman -architecture, while the extreme simplicity of the work at Bunkle seems -to indicate that it is very early in the style. At Chirnside and St. -Helen’s but little is left; indeed, the latter is now almost only a -memory of the past.[173] - -The numerous remains of Norman parish churches scattered throughout -Berwickshire point to the direction from which the Roman influence -gradually spread over the country. - -Amongst these fragments, the small piece of Bunkle Church (Fig. 268) -which survives is one of the earliest. It is situated about 4½ miles -north-west from Chirnside Station, on the Duns Branch Railway, and -stands in the immediate neighbourhood of the fragmentary ruins of - -[Illustration: FIG. 268.--Bunkle Church. Plan and View of Apse.] - -Bunkle Castle. The building appears to have been entire till about 1820, -when it was demolished, and the materials used in the erection of the -existing parish church, which adjoins it. Only the semi-circular apse, -with the arch leading into it, remains of what was the original parish -church. The building is extremely plain, and Mr. Muir[174] suggests -that it may be of even earlier than twelfth century date. The apse is -about 11 feet in width, and projects 7 feet internally. It has a small -round-headed window to the north-east, and another to the south-east, -but none to the east. These windows are placed high, and are 18 inches -wide on the outside, and are widely splayed inwards. Adjoining the -south-east window are the remains of a piscina, about 14 inches square -by 11 inches high. The entrance to the apse from the choir is preserved. -It is 7 feet 6 inches in width, and 7 feet 10 inches high to the -springing of the arch. The wall is 3 feet in thickness. The jambs are -plain, and the semi-circular arch is also plain, having one deep -square-edged order extending the full thickness of the wall. The impost -is a simple fascia, with a small splay on the under edge. The apse is -vaulted with a plain semidome similar to that of St. Margaret’s Chapel -in Edinburgh Castle, and the roof is formed with overlapping stones. A -few stones are observable in the walls of the new church which are -carved with zigzag ornaments, and were, doubtless, derived from the old -building. - - -EDROM CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. - -Of the ancient parish church of Edrom, situated about one mile from -Edrom Railway Station, there still survives a Norman doorway of -beautiful workmanship. (Fig. 269.)[175] It has been preserved by being -made the entrance to a burial vault at the west end of the church. This -doorway (Fig. 270) is one of the finest of the style in Scotland, and is -of considerable size, being 11 feet high and 4 feet 8 inches wide. It -has two shafts (one of them a nook shaft) in each jamb, and the ashlar -work of the wall forms the support of the outer order. The arch contains -three orders, all elaborately carved with Norman enrichments. The inner -enrichment (Fig. 271) consists of a series of chevrons; the central -order is also ornamented with two sets of chevrons, arranged so as to -form lozenge shapes between them, which are filled with delicate -carvings. The outer order contains a repeating ornament, arranged in -squares, and the whole is enclosed with a small label carved with a -delicately foliaged ornament. - -The caps of the shafts are somewhat remarkable. Fig. 271 shows those of -each side. The cushion caps and the elaborately carved scrolls of the -left central cap correspond with ordinary Norman work, but the peculiar -and twisted serpent-like forms of the right jamb are remarkable. - -It is not quite clear that the doorway is in its original state. There -are three capitals on each side, only two of which have shafts. It is -not unlikely that the remaining two capitals had either shafts or some -kind of decoration continued to the base, as at Iffley or Middleton; -Stoney, - -[Illustration: FIG. 269.--Edrom Church. Norman Doorway.] - -Oxfordshire; or Kirkham Priory, Yorkshire (see _Parker’s Glossary_). It -is also probable that the opening was square-headed, and the tympanum -filled with a shield, as at Abercorn and Linton. - -The lands and church of Edenham, with Nisbet, were granted to - -[Illustration: FIG. 270.--Edrom Church. Doorway.] - -St. Cuthbert’s monks by Gospatrick, Earl of Dunbar, and confirmed, in -1139, by David I. The investiture is in favour of the Prior of -Coldingham. - -[Illustration: FIG. 271.--Edrom. Caps of Shafts.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 272.--Edrom. Angle Buttresses.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 273.--Edrom. Arms on Buttress.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 274.--Edrom. Shield on Aisle.] - -An aisle of some interest is attached to the church. It contains in a -panel occupying the position of a niche on one of the buttresses a -modern inscription giving the history of the aisle, viz.:--“Founded by -Robert Blackadder, Archbishop of Glasgow, in the year 1499.” The only -portions of the aisle still preserved which are of any interest are the -two angle buttresses (Fig. 272). Both of these have had niches with -canopies and corbels for supporting figures. The canopy of one is gone, -but a sundial occupies its place. The archbishop’s arms and initials -(Fig. 273) are carved on the buttress. His family name is derived from a -place of the same designation in the parish. Another shield (Fig. 274), -with arms almost obliterated, occurs a little further west. - - -LEGERWOOD, BERWICKSHIRE. - -[Illustration: FIG. 276.--Legerwood Church. Window.] - -Legerwood stands in the hilly region, about four miles north-east from -Earlston Station. The parish church is old, and has been often repaired. -Attached to it, but entirely cut off by a wall, are the roofless - -[Illustration: FIG. 275.--Legerwood Church. Plan.] - -ruins of the original Norman chancel (Fig. 275), which is complete, and -measures internally 17 feet 4 inches square. It is fairly preserved, and -contains some good Norman work. The chancel arch is entire, but is -partly concealed on the face with plaster, and the ingoing is entirely -hidden by the stone wall, which separates the chancel from the church. -There is a 10 inch diameter round shaft in each internal angle, which is -continued up as high as the walls, but there are no indications of -vaulting. A small round-headed window, 9 inches wide, is introduced in -the centre of the east and north sides (Fig. 276), and apparently a -doorway has existed in the south wall. The chancel arch has been large, -being about 14 feet 8 inches wide, including the columns, and is -enriched with shafts and carving; but, unfortunately, it is so built up -that only portions are visible. The caps and mouldings, so far as they -can be seen, are shown in Fig. 277. The - -[Illustration: FIG. 277.--Legerwood Church. Caps.] - -ornament consists largely of square facets, with various forms of -sinkings. A small recess, 11 inches deep, 15 inches wide, and 17 inches -high, which occurs in the north wall, is - -[Illustration: FIG. 278.--Legerwood Church. Recess in North Wall.] - -shown in Fig. 278. It has not been fitted with a door. - -Masons’ marks are distinctly chiselled on the stones of the chancel. -Throughout the chancel there are clear indications of coloured -decorations, consisting of a cross or star in red on a circularly-shaped -ground of white. Fig. 278 shows one on the wall, and another in the -recess. - -Till the Reformation the Church of Legerwood belonged to Paisley Abbey, -to which it was granted in 1163; but “John Priest of Ledgureside” is -found witnessing a charter granted in 1127 by Robert, Bishop of St. -Andrews, in favour of the Priory of Coldingham. The modern church -appears to occupy the site of the original nave, as its east wall and -part of the return of the side walls are old. The nave measures 47 feet -10 inches long by 27 feet 9 inches wide. A piece of stone carved with -Celtic interlaced work is built into the south wall near the west end, -and on the corner there is a double sundial, bearing the initials W. G., -and the date 1682. - - -CHIRNSIDE CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. - -Another fragment of Norman work survives at Chirnside in the doorway of -the ruined church, situated about one mile from Chirnside - -[Illustration: FIG. 279.--Chirnside Church. Doorway.] - -Railway Station. The village stands high, and commands an extensive -view. The church has been much restored, but the ancient Norman walls in -great measure remain. Its size can, therefore, be determined, being 78 -feet in length by 23 feet ½ inch in width. The only architectural -feature remaining is the doorway on the south side. (Fig. 279.) It is -contained in a shallow projection of 9½ inches, which is 10 feet 2 -inches in breadth. The doorway is 2 feet 10¾ inches wide, and the height -to the lintel is 6 feet 10 inches. The arched head is somewhat peculiar, -consisting of two segmental arches, resting on caps placed at different -levels. - -Each jamb contains two nook shafts (the two outer shafts being modern), -with simple bases and cushion caps, the inner cap being lower than the -outer. A bead runs round the jambs and square lintel, and the tympanum -is plain. Each cap carries an order, the inner order being enriched with -a series of chevrons, and the outer order with mouldings. The soffit in -both orders is plain. The outer order is enclosed in a small label, -which has a break at the termination--a very unusual feature in Norman -work. - -At the sides of the doorway there are remains of a projection, probably -a porch. The church had a western tower, which was taken down in 1750. -It was vaulted in stone. - -The Church of Chirnside, before the Reformation, was under the patronage -of the Collegiate Church of Dunbar. In the taxation of 1176 the -_Ecclesia de Chirnesyd_ is valued at 50 merks. The church is probably -somewhat older than that date. - - -ST. HELEN’S CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. - -The ruins of this church stand in a lonely and lofty situation -overlooking the sea, about three miles eastward from Cockburnspath. The -fabric is now in a greater state of dilapidation than is shown by the -annexed views, which are copied from a sketch by James Drummond, R.S.A., -engraved in the _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of -Scotland_.[176] It is accompanied by a description and plan by Mr. -Thomas S. Muir, from which it would appear that about the middle of this -century the east gable wall, which was then entire, was taken down, the -stones being used for agricultural purposes, and that most of what is -shown of the chancel arch shared a similar fate. The dimensions can -still be ascertained from the ruins. - -The church (Fig. 280) was a Norman structure, with the exception of the -west gable wall, and consisted of a nave about 30 feet 9 inches long by -18 feet wide, and a chancel 15 feet 2 inches long by 11 feet 6½ inches -wide. The total internal length was thus about 48 feet 11 inches. The -building was barrel vaulted throughout. The apertures where the north -and south walls of the nave are shown broken down (see Fig. 280) -probably indicate the position of a north and south doorway. There were -two windows - -[Illustration: FIG. 280.--St. Helen’s Church. Plan.] - -in the south wall, with three shallow arched recesses beneath. (Fig. -281.) These recesses measure 11 inches deep by about 3 feet high, and -have not been fitted with doors. Their purpose is unknown. The chancel -arch, when entire, measured about 7 feet in width. The stone shown in - -[Illustration: FIG. 281.--St. Helen’s Church. View looking East.] - -the foreground of Fig. 281 gives an idea of the section of the jambs of -the arch, only part of which now remains. A broad band connected with -the caps runs along the north and south walls of the nave. The band is -decorated with a circular rosette ornament. As will be seen from this -view, the arch was flanked on each side by a square recessed opening, -similar in position to those at the chancel arch at Tynninghame, but the -recesses at the latter are arched. Beneath each of these there is a -small opening, as shown on view, about 6 inches square, which goes into -the wall for about two feet, but the place is now too ruinous to permit -of the matter being further investigated. - -The north wall of the chancel is almost entire, and has had no opening. -The south wall is nearly all gone, and, as already stated, nothing -remains of the east wall. The narrow east window, with its wide internal -splay, appears to have been set in a recess, and enriched round the arch -and down the jambs with a single chevron ornament. - -[Illustration: FIG. 282.--St. Helen’s Church. West Gable Wall.] - -The west gable wall (Fig. 282) has been rebuilt in the fourteenth or -fifteenth century. It is without opening of any kind, save the numerous -putlog holes used for the masons’ scaffolding when erecting the -building. - -This was the church of Aldcamus, incorporated before the year 1750 in -the parish of Cockburnspath. The manor of Aldcamus was granted by King -Edgar (1098-1107) to Durham, and “thenceforth belonged to the monastery -of Coldingham, as a cell of Durham.”[177] How long after this date the -church was built we do not know; but as Chalmers remarks in a footnote -that it was the manor, not the church, which Edgar granted to Durham, it -may be doubted whether the church then existed. It appears to have -fallen into ruin about the time of its annexation to Cockburnspath. - - -TYNNINGHAME CHURCH, HADDINGTONSHIRE. - -The few relics which survive of this ancient monastery lie buried in a -thick clump of trees, which stands between the modern mansion of -Tynninghame and the river Tyne, about three miles north-east from East -Linton. This was one of the churches dedicated to St. Baldred, of which -there were several on the East Coast. That Saint seems to have selected -the Bass Rock as his place of abode, whence his fame spread through the -adjoining regions. He is believed to have come from the establishment of -the Columbans at Lindisfarne, whose diocese extended as far as the Frith -of Forth. He died in 606. The foundation of Tynninghame was laid by St. -Baldred, or Blathere,[178] and the church continued as a separate parish -till 1760, when it was united to Whitekirk. - -[Illustration: FIG. 283.--Tynninghame Church. Plan.] - -What remains of the structure is of Norman architecture, and exhibits -elaborate ornamental work of that style. The plan of the church (Fig. -283) is in part still traceable. The west end of the choir, with its -great arch (Fig. 284), is fairly preserved, and the outline of a -rectangular choir, about 18 feet in length by 17 feet in width, is -observable, although the side walls are greatly demolished. - -[Illustration: FIG. 284.--Tynninghame Church. West End of Choir.] - -The nave, if it ever existed, has entirely disappeared. At the east end -an enriched chancel arch still survives (Fig. 285), and also portions of -pillars, which indicate that there has been an eastern apse. - -The western arch (see Fig. 284) is supported on a series of nook shafts, -some of which are broken away. These carry simply formed caps, with - -[Illustration: FIG. 285.--Tynninghame Church. Arch of Apse.] - -square abacus, carved with scale work. The arch contains three orders -enriched with ornaments and a label. The first and third orders are -enriched with very elaborate chevron ornaments; the central order has -the billet and the hood mould, a series of small semicircles placed back -to back. An arched recess occurs in the wall at each side of the -central arch. That on the north side is original, and is ornamented -with the chevron. The arch on the south side has been renewed. It is not -clear what purpose these arches served, but most probably they contained -altars. Arched recesses in this position, although not common, are -sometimes found in Norman churches. The arch of the apse (see Fig. 285) -is enriched in three orders, and the caps of the shafts have volutes -(Fig. 286). Two of the pillars which formed part of the apse survive. -The details of the caps and central band are shown in Fig. 286. - -Many of the smaller ornaments of this structure are very beautiful, and -are well preserved. On the south side (see Fig. 284) there remains the -recessed pointed arch of a monument, in which parts of a decayed -recumbent effigy are visible. The three shields on the top give it a -picturesque effect. - -[Illustration: FIG. 286.--Tynninghame Church. Caps in Apse.] - -The ruined church is now used as the family mausoleum of the Earls of -Haddington. - - -STOBO CHURCH, PEEBLESSHIRE. - -This church is situated in the valley of the Tweed, six and a half miles -west from Peebles, and within one mile of Stobo Railway Station. It is - -[Illustration: FIG. 287.--Stobo Church. Plan.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 288.--Stobo Church. View from South-East.] - -a Norman structure, to which some alterations and additions have been -made in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The building is still -used as the parish church. The roof and interior fittings are modern, as -are also the skews and gabled skew putts, of which latter there was no -suggestion in the old work. But the most serious injury inflicted on the - -[Illustration: FIG. 289.--Stobo Church. Norman Doorway.] - -structure was the entire destruction of the Norman chancel arch at the -restoration of the building in 1868, “in order to insert a modern -pointed one.”--(_Transactions of the Aberdeen Ecclesiological Society, -1887_, p. 6.) - -The building (Fig. 287) consists of a nave about 40 feet long by 18 feet -7 inches wide, with a chancel about 24 feet 4 inches long by 16 feet -wide, thus making the total interior length about 67 feet 4 inches. -There is a tower at the west end, about 20 feet square over the walls, -and 11 feet by 9 feet 6 inches inside. The tower has originally opened -into the church with what appears to have been a round arch, which is -now partly concealed by a gallery and other erections. This opening has -been reduced in size, as shown on the plan, to a doorway about three -feet wide. The doorway is pointed, and of old date. - -As the whole building is harled or rough cast on the outside and -plastered on the inside, it is impossible to say definitely whether the -tower is Norman or later. The work of the sixteenth and seventeenth -centuries consists of the south porch (Fig. 288), built up against the -Norman doorway (Fig. 289), and a north aisle or chapel, which opened -from the nave with a round arch, now built up. This chapel, which is -ruined, was barrel vaulted. The windows in the south wall are also of -this period. The mullions and tracery of those of the nave are modern, -as is also a monument erected against the interior of the east wall, -which may possibly conceal a Norman east window. The four-light window -in the south wall of the chancel (Fig. 290), although of this late -period, is quaint and pleasing, the small circle in the apex giving it -quite a touch of originality. - -[Illustration: FIG. 290.--Stobo Church. Window in South Wall of -Chancel.] - -A round arched recess for a monument in the north side of the chancel -also belongs to this period. It has contained a coat of arms, which is -effaced. - -The original windows in the north side of the chancel remain. The -daylight is about 7 inches wide by about 2 feet high. There has been a -Norman doorway in the north side of the nave. It has a plain arch, and -was probably not unlike the doorway in the opposite wall, which is of -very simple design, with octagonal shafts. The capitals are slightly -mutilated. - -The window to the west of the porch is modern, as are the doorway and -stair in the tower. The latter is of wood, and leads to the gallery -already referred to. There does not appear to have been a stone stair in -the tower. The belfry is late, as is the present tower roof. It is -impossible to say how the tower was originally finished. - -The walls being lined with wood on the inside, the usual fittings are -concealed, the only feature visible being the locker, shown on Plan, -near the east end. It is widely splayed in the ingoing, and is not -Norman. The south chancel door is probably of the period of the -adjoining windows. - -Stobo Church, like most of the churches of Peeblesshire, “belonged to -the diocese of Glasgow at the epoch of Earl David’s Inquisitio in 1116, -and both the church and manor were confirmed to that see, by several -bulls of successive Popes, in the twelfth century.” In Bagimont’s Roll -(1275) it is mentioned as the “Rectoria de Stobo” and the “Vicaria de -Stobo.”[179] It was the church of a _Plebania_,[180] having subordinate -churches or chaplainries within its territory, over which its priest, -who was styled dean, exercised a certain authority. There were four -subordinate parishes--viz., Broughton, Dowie, Drummelzier, and -Tweedsmuir. In 1116 the rectory of Stobo was converted into the valuable -prebend of Tweeddale in Glasgow Cathedral. - - -DUDDINGSTON CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN. - -This ancient Norman edifice has formed the place of worship for the -locality since the twelfth century, and is still used as the parish -church. It is picturesquely situated on the north side of Duddingston -Loch, - -[Illustration: FIG. 291.--Duddingston Church. Plan.] - -immediately under the south side of Arthur’s Seat, and within a mile of -Edinburgh. - -[Illustration: FIG. 292.--Duddingston Church. From South-East.] - -The structure has undergone many alterations during the six centuries of -its existence, but still retains its original Norman character to a -greater extent than at first sight might be supposed; indeed, it is one -of the best preserved examples we have in Scotland, although the -introduction of a - -[Illustration: FIG. 293.--Duddingston Church. South Doorway.] - -few prominent features in later times, such as the windows and -buttresses, have somewhat detracted from its antique appearance. - -The building appears to have originally consisted of a nave and chancel; -if it had a tower, it must have been of smaller dimensions than the -present one, as the base of the west wall abuts against the side walls -of the present tower instead of returning along it, as it would -otherwise in all likelihood have done. - -The nave (Fig. 291) measures about 33 feet 4 inches long, and was -probably about 19 feet wide inside. The chancel is about square, being -16 feet 1½ inch from east to west by 15 feet 6 inches wide, the total -inside length of the church being 52 feet 9 inches. - -On the outside a series of pilaster buttresses divided the nave into -four bays; these still exist along the south side, measuring about 2 -feet on the face, and having a projection of 9 inches, with a large base -returned round them. To these pilasters massive buttresses (Fig. 292) -projecting three feet have been added. At the corners of the church the -original angle pilasters remain unaltered. The old doorway in the west -bay of the south side (Fig. 293) still continues unchanged, except that -it - -[Illustration: FIG. 294.--Duddingston Church.] - -is built up, and has an incongruous granite slab occupying the whole -space. The opening of the doorway is about 4 feet 2 inches wide. The -arch is richly sculptured with the chevron in two orders, the inner -order being supported on shafts decorated with the chevron in a manner -not found, we think, anywhere else in Scotland. On one of these shafts -there are two sculptured scenes. The upper one represents the -Crucifixion. (See Fig. 293.) The lower one (Fig. 294) shows a figure -holding aloft a drawn sword; beside the sword, in the shade where the -shaft disappears at the jamb, there is what looks like a key, possibly -the symbol of St. Peter, so that the subject may be the incident of -cutting off the ear of the High Priest. - -The chancel arch (Fig. 295) is the only Norman feature now remaining in -the interior. It is in two orders, having on the outer order the usual -chevron ornament, with a notched hood moulding similar to what is found -at Dunfermline. The inner order has a bold bead on the edge. The arch is -quite plain on its inner face towards the chancel. It is carried by -three semi-shafts (Fig. 296), with cushion caps and simple bases. The -abacus has been carved with facets. - -On the exterior of the chancel there occur on the north and south sides -(see Fig. 292) characteristic Norman corbels supporting the wall-head -parapet. These consist generally of the usual bridled heads and -monstrous faces, but they are now very weather-worn. - - -The north wall of the nave has been taken down and a north aisle added -(see Plan), apparently in the year 1631, as that date (Fig. 297) is -carved on a window lintel of the east wall. In the north gable of this -aisle there are two traceried windows, somewhat after the style of the -Perpendicular Period. (Fig. 298.) It will be observed that the mouldings -of the loop form of the tracery do not mitre with the arch mouldings. - -At a later period a central window, without tracery, has been placed in -the north wall of the aisle. It corresponds exactly with the windows - -[Illustration: FIG. 295.--Duddingston Church. Chancel Arch.] - -seen in the south side, and with the one in the east wall of the -chancel, judging from which it was probably at this later period that -all the present windows, seen in Fig. 292, were inserted. The original -windows were, doubtless, the usual small windows found in Norman -churches, and when they came to be enlarged, the builders probably -increased the buttresses to compensate for the weakening of the wall, -and added the conical finials on them and on the gables (see Fig. 292). -It is obvious that to this period also the upper part of the tower -belongs. The lower part of the tower, although not of the original -structure, is, we are inclined to think, of considerable antiquity; it -opens into the church with a plain, round arch. The staircase shown in -it and on the north aisle lead to galleries. - -[Illustration: FIG. 296. - -Jamb of Chancel Arch.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 297. - -Lintel in East Wall, North Aisle.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 298. - -Window in North Aisle.] - -During the reign of William the Lion (1165-1214) the church and lands of -Dodin-ston were acquired by the Abbey of Kelso, but from whom they were -acquired is not known. There were several persons of the name of Dodin, -but the one who gave his name to this place does not appear to be known. -But there was a “Hugo filius Dodini de Dodines-tun” who witnessed a -charter to the Canons of Holyrood in the time of William the Lion -(Dalrymple _Collection_, Pref. lxvii.; also, _Caledonia_, Vol. II. p. -791.) - -In 1296 John Combale, the vicar of Dodinestun, swore fealty to Edward I. - -In the ancient _Taxatio_ (end of twelfth century), Duddingston Church is -rated at twenty-five merks. - - -ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH, GULLANE, HADDINGTONSHIRE. - -The village of Gullane lies in the parish of Dirleton, about four miles -north-west from Drem Station, and half-a-mile from the sea. - -The old church of St. Andrew is now a roofless ruin, thickly clad with -ivy, and standing in the middle of the ancient churchyard. The church -was bestowed early in the thirteenth century on Dryburgh Abbey by Sir -William de Vaux, and in 1446 it was erected into a collegiate -institution by Sir Walter de Haliburton. Both these knights were the -proprietors of the Castle of Dirleton in the vicinity. - -The structure (Fig. 299) consisted of nave and chancel, the chancel -being entered from the nave by a semicircular chancel arch, almost the -only remnant of the edifice of the twelfth century which survives. - -[Illustration: FIG. 299.--Gullane Church. Plan.] - -The chancel as it now stands is 35 feet in length by 15 feet 6 inches in -width internally. The eastern portion is a comparatively recent -addition, and has a square east wall, but it is believed that the -chancel formerly terminated towards the east with an apse. Part of the -old south wall of the chancel, extending to about 20 feet in length, -still remains. It contains two pointed windows, with late mouldings on -the exterior, probably fragments of the restoration of the fifteenth -century, at the time when the church was made collegiate. These windows -have been reduced to mere slits by being built up with slabs in the -interior. This filling up was probably inserted when the place was -converted into a burial-ground for a private family, in order to prevent -entrance through the windows. - -The south wall of the nave is still about 72 feet in length, but the -north wall is reduced to about 43 feet long. The west end is gone, and -the nave has been divided up into private burial-places. The windows -which remain in the south wall of the nave have been much altered in -Presbyterian times, having had flat lintels, &c., introduced. - -The chancel archway (Figs. 300, 301) is 8 feet in width. It has square -jambs on both sides of the wall, and a central half shaft on each jamb -of the opening. The caps of these shafts (see Fig. 301) are fairly -preserved, and - -[Illustration: FIG. 300.--Gullane Church. West Side of Chancel Arch.] - -show a form of volutes, with a cabled necking and a three-sided abacus, -which was continued as a string course along the walls on each side. - -The arch has been built up, but the two plain orders of the east side -are visible, and the outer order on the west side (Fig. 300), carved -with a bold chevron and finished with a three-sided hood, is well -preserved. There can be no doubt as to this part of the structure being -of Norman origin, and the north wall of the nave has a three-sided -string course, which seems to indicate the same date, but the remainder -of the structure - -[Illustration: FIG. 301.--Gullane Church. East Side of Chancel Arch.] - -has been greatly altered. The earth inside the choir has been filled up -to near the caps of the chancel arch. A round arch in the north wall of -the chancel appears to belong to a side door at the original level of -the floor. - -An “aisle” or wing has been built out to the north from the nave. It has -been entered by a large semicircular arch from the nave, and has had a -large north window, but these openings are now built up. This erection -seems to be of about the time of the Reformation. - - -UPHALL CHURCH, AND ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH, STRATHBROC, LINLITHGOWSHIRE. - -The Church of Uphall is a Norman structure throughout, and consists of -nave, chancel, and a western tower. It has been subjected to various - -[Illustration: FIG. 302.--Uphall Church. Plan.] - -alterations and extensions, but the original plan is still perfectly -clear, and is shown by Fig. 302, which ignores the changes, except the -addition of the south aisle or wing. The building has no side aisles. - -The nave measures about 35 feet long by 15 feet wide, and the - -[Illustration: FIG. 303.--Uphall Church. Doorway.] - -chancel 30 feet 6 inches long by 13 feet wide. The doorway (Fig. 303) is -in the usual place at the west end of the south front. It is of Norman -design, having a nook shaft at each side, with cushion cap and plain -square abacus. The arch is round, and has two orders, the inner order -being square edged, and the outer composed of mouldings, and having a -moulded label. It is probable there was some piece of carving beneath -the arch, or else the square lintel is an alteration. A stoup adjoining -in the south wall has a pointed opening, and probably dates from the -fifteenth century. There is another doorway opposite in the north wall, -which is perfectly plain, and, so far as it can be seen, it appears to -be original; but, as the lower parts of the walls are covered with wood -boarding, other requisites which may exist, such as ambries and piscina, -are concealed. None of the windows are original, so far, at least, as -they are seen on the exterior, and the whole masonry on the inside is -covered. The east window in the south wall (Fig. 304) has a horizontal -arched lintel, with radiating joints, and probably dates from late in -the fifteenth century. It is impossible to say whether there were -windows in the east wall or not, and, as regards the north wall, it has -nearly all been taken down between the west door and the chancel arch, -in order to admit a modern addition. The chancel arch itself has been -taken away, and the - -[Illustration: FIG. 304.--Uphall Church. Window in South Wall.] - -wall above removed, and the place occupied by it has been filled up with -lath and plaster, and slated on the outside. - -The western tower (Fig. 305) has been appropriated as the burial-place -of the Buchan family; so that it now forms no part of the church. It is -entered by a fanciful Norman door in the west end. The windows in the -tower are all modern, and so, we need hardly say, is the belfry. The -upper part of the tower has been rebuilt at a late period, probably -during the fifteenth century alteration. - -The south aisle probably dates from the seventeenth century, and was -built by the Shairp family, whose mansion house of Houston is in the -neighbourhood. It is now partly used as their burial aisle, and is a -quaint structure, forming an agreeable contrast to the modern additions. - -The parish of Uphall was formerly called Strathbroc, and at this place, -near the modern mansion of Kirkhill, and about one mile east from -Uphall, stood the old parish church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, which -was abandoned in the sixteenth century, when the Church of Uphall -became the parish church. What kind of building it was before this does -not appear to be known. The Rev. Mr. Primrose, who has devoted much -attention to the antiquities of the locality, suggests that it was the -chapel of some order of monks. - -[Illustration: FIG. 305.--Uphall Church. Western Tower and South Wing.] - -Of the Church of Strathbroc only two relics now remain. The one is the -font (Fig. 306), of which the basin only is old. It was rescued from the -adjoining farm steading, where it served a useful, if not dignified, -purpose, and placed on its present base, and now stands in the Roman -Catholic Church of Broxburn. It is octagonal in shape, and contains -(Fig. 307) the letters M· and IHS·, repeated twice. Two of the faces -bear the inscriptions STA/ECCLESIA· and NICOLAS·, and two faces are -vacant. - -The other relic of St. Nicholas is the bell which now rings in the -parish church of Uphall. It contains the inscription “Campanum Sancti -Nicholai de Strathbroke, 1441.”[181] Mr. Primrose states that the bell -was recast in 1503, and contains the Seton arms--Kirkhill at this period -belonging to that family. - -[Illustration: FIG. 306.--Strathbroc Church. Font.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 307.] - - -ABERCORN, LINLITHGOWSHIRE. - -The ancient church of Æbbercurnig, or Abercorn, lies in a sheltered spot -amidst the fine woods surrounding the grounds of Hopetoun House, about -three miles west from Queensferry. - -[Illustration: FIG. 308.--Abercorn Church. South Doorway.] - -It is believed that when the Northumbrian kingdom was extended to the -Forth in the seventh century, a church was founded here in 675, under -St. Wilfrid, as a central point from which to superintend the northern -part of his diocese. Under Trumuini, this church became the see of the -earliest bishopric in Scotland, during the years from 681 to 685. But -the victory of the Picts over the Northumbrians at Dunichen caused the -latter to retire from Lothian, and drove the monks back to Whitby. The -site, however, continued to be occupied by a church, and part of the -existing structure belongs to the Norman period. It has been very -greatly altered in modern times--so much so, that a round-headed doorway -(Fig. 308) in the south wall is now almost the only portion remaining -which can be - -[Illustration: FIG. 309.--Abercorn Church. From South-East.] - -identified as of Norman date. This Norman doorway has the usual nook -shafts, with cushion caps, and the lintel within the round arch is -square. The tympanum is filled with stones, arranged in zig-zag -patterns, and is one of the few examples in Scotland of a tympanum -filled with a shield containing ornament of any kind. - -Several burial-places have been added on the south side of the church -since Reformation times. (Fig. 309.) These can generally be identified -by the coats of arms they bear. - -To the north-east of the church there has been erected, probably in the -eighteenth century, a house of two stories as a place for the lord of -the manor, from which he obtained access to his private gallery, erected -about that time at the east end of the choir, which it still disfigures. - -In the churchyard there are many interesting tombstones, and amongst -them are two stone monuments of rather unusual form. (Fig. 310.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 310.--Abercorn Church. Monuments.] - -These consist of solid stones, doubtless intended to be laid over -graves, triangular in section, with the ridge rising to the centre. One -has the sides carved with figures of fish-scale pattern, arranged in -rows; the other has the scales of a squarer shape. The ends are broken. -They are good specimens of the hog-backed form of tombstones. - - -KELSO ABBEY, ROXBURGHSHIRE. - -In 1113, David, Earl of Huntingdon, introduced thirteen Reformed -Benedictine monks from Tiron, in France (hence called Tironenses), and -settled them at Selkirk, near his castle there. But the place was not -found suitable, and in 1128, after David had become king, the monks, -with the consent of the Bishop of Glasgow, were removed to Kelso, where -they were established near the royal castle of Roxburgh. The foundation -of the new abbey was laid in 1128, and the church was dedicated to the -blessed Virgin Mary and St. John the Evangelist. The monastery soon -became the richest and most powerful in Scotland. In 1165 the Pope -granted permission to the abbot to wear the mitre, and the abbot claimed -precedence of all the superiors of monasteries in Scotland. But in 1420 -this precedence was decided by James I. in favour of the Prior of St. -Andrews. Many of the abbots of Kelso were men of learning and celebrity, -and were employed in important offices in and out of the kingdom, and -others were promoted to bishoprics. - -During the War of Independence the abbey, which lay near the Border, -suffered severely. The monastery was laid waste, and the monks were -supported by contributions from the other houses of the order. In 1344, -the buildings of the abbey having been destroyed by fire, David II. -granted permission to the monks to cut wood in Selkirk and Jedwart -Forest, to enable them to carry out the necessary reparations. - -In 1511 the abbacy passed into the hands of the Bishop of Caithness, as -commendator, and its decline soon followed. After the Battle of Flodden, -in 1513, David Ker of Cessford took possession of the abbey, and had his -brother made abbot. In 1522-3 invasion and havoc spread over Teviotdale. -Lords Ross and Dacre pillaged the town, sparing the - -[Illustration: FIG. 311.--Kelso Abbey. Ground Plan.] - -abbey; but in 1523 Lord Dacre sacked and burned it. The abbot’s house -and buildings surrounding it, the Chapel of the Virgin, and the cells of -the dormitory were all reduced to ashes; the lead was stripped from the -roof, and the abbey rendered uninhabitable. All religious services were -stopped, and the monks had to retire in want and poverty to a village -near. From 1536 till 1558 James Stewart, natural son of James V., filled -the office of abbot, and drew the revenues. In 1542 the Duke of Norfolk, - -[Illustration: FIG. 312.--Kelso Abbey. South Side of Chancel and South -Transept.] - -and in 1545 the Earl of Hertford, again attacked and further destroyed -the monastery. On the latter occasion the defenders sought refuge in the -tower, which they defended till darkness enabled some of them to escape. -The shattered walls seem still to have afforded some shelter; but they - -[Illustration: FIG. 313.--Kelso Abbey. From South-East.] - -were again still further reduced by Lord Eure in 1546. Finally, in 1560, -when a few monks still remained, the buildings were attacked by the mob, -and all the remaining fittings and furnishings destroyed. In 1559 the -revenues and property of the abbey had been taken possession of by the -Lords of the Congregation in the name of the Crown. - -These were afterwards distributed amongst the favourites of James VI., -and were finally conferred on Sir Robert Ker of Cessford, who was -created - -[Illustration: FIG. 314.--Kelso Abbey. Crossing and North Transept.] - -Lord Roxburgh in 1599. The abbey still belongs to his successor, the -Duke of Roxburgh, and the remains of the late Duke are buried in the -south transept. - -In 1649 a vault was thrown over the transept, so as to convert it into a -parish church, and above this another vault served as a prison. This is -shown in Grose’s view, made a century ago. - -[Illustration: FIG. 315.--Kelso Abbey. From West.] - -During service on a Sunday in 1771, a panic was caused by the fall of a -fragment of cement, and the church was thereafter abandoned. The ruins -were partly disencumbered by the Duke of Roxburgh, 1805-16, and in 1823 -the buildings were repaired by the noblemen and gentlemen of the -county.[182] - -After the many batterings and the long neglect the abbey church has -endured, it is astonishing to find even the fragments which still exist. - -The edifice has consisted (Fig. 311) of a choir or chancel of -considerable length, with north and south aisles, and of a transept and -nave, without aisles. The north and south divisions of the transept and -the nave form three arms of equal length round the three sides of the -crossing, above which rises the massive square tower. - -The church has been originally constructed in the late Norman style of -about the end of the twelfth century, passing into the transition style; -but the upper part of the tower has been rebuilt at a later period. - -A portion of each of the departments of the church survives, but in the -case of the chancel there remains only a fragment. The chancel is the -only part which had aisles, but these have now entirely disappeared; and -of the chancel itself, all that remains (Fig. 312) is two of the south -main piers, with their arches, and two stories of arcades above, which -represent the triforium and clerestory. This arrangement is peculiar, -and the effect is striking. - -[Illustration: FIG. 316.--Kelso Abbey. West Doorway.] - -The main piers consist of a circular column, five feet in diameter, with -smaller attached half-columns on three sides to carry the moulded arches -between the main piers and the arches between the latter and the aisles. -The piers have caps of the usual Norman modified cushion pattern, and -the arches were moulded and arranged in several orders. The arcade -immediately over the main arches has a row of single round shafts, with -spreading Norman caps, which carry a series of moulded arches, occupying -the position of the triforium. The upper arcade, which takes the place -of the clerestory, has shafts of triple form, with wide-spreading bases -and caps of Norman and transition design. On the latter rest the round -boldly-moulded arches. The arches opposite the windows in the outer wall -are slightly larger than the others. It will be observed that there is -no main vaulting shaft carried up over the main piers, as is almost -invariably the case, for the purpose of strengthening the wall. On the -contrary, the triforium arcade is continuous, and no provision is made -to support the side wall, except the single shafts of the running -arcade, which have a very weak effect. In the usual arrangement the -triforium arches are separated by a substantial piece of wall, including -a vaulting shaft, and the triforium arch, which is generally subdivided -into several subordinate arches, is introduced between the vaulting -shafts. - -That is a much more substantial form of construction, and also more -satisfactory to the eye, than the plan adopted here of a simple -continuous arcade. - -[Illustration: FIG. 317.--Kelso Abbey. North End of Transept.] - -The clerestory is designed on the same principle as the triforium, and -consists of a continuous arcade, without the interruption of the -vaulting shafts. - -In the view of the exterior of this portion of the choir (Fig. 313), the -outside of the windows of the clerestory is visible, being simple -round-headed openings, with flat buttresses between them. The remainder -of the wall is plain, but, judging from the level of the triforium -window, the vaulting of the aisle, which was very high, and partly -covered the windows, seems to have been added at a later date. The choir -was 28 feet in width from centre to centre of the piers, only two of -which survive. - -The crossing is square, and measures 28 feet from centre to centre of -the piers; but of these the north-east one is wanting. The piers are -about nine feet square, that at the south-east angle standing detached -in consequence of the opening into the south aisle, while those at the -north-west and south-west angles are incorporated with the walls. - -The piers are designed as a series of shafts set in square nooks (four -on each of the complete sides), with a larger semicircular shaft at each -angle. (See Figs. 312 and 314.) The shafts are all built in courses with -the piers. They have transition bases and caps. From the latter spring -large pointed arches, with plain chamfered orders. The pointed arch -indicates the transitional character of this part of the building. It -was probably introduced in this position to give strength to sustain the -tower. - -As already mentioned, the three arms of the cross branching to the -north, south, and west from the crossing are of equal size. This is a - -[Illustration: FIG. 318.--Kelso Abbey. Doorway of North Transept.] - -very unusual arrangement, the western arm or nave being generally much -the longest division of the church. We have not heard any satisfactory -explanation given of the shortness of the nave of Kelso. This -arrangement of plan has apparently been part of the original design, as -the western doorway (Figs. 315 and 316) is one of the most prominently -Norman portions of the edifice. The upper part of the west front (see -Fig. 315), although much broken away, has been in the transition style; -while the Norman arcading, which runs round the interior of the nave, -was continued across the west end. - -The nave and the north and south transept each measure about 22 feet in -width by 18 feet in length. Each contains four stories in height (Figs. -315 and 317), consisting of an interlacing arcade of Norman work in the -interior of the ground level, and three stories of windows above. The -upper arcades of the choir do not extend round the nave and transepts, -except in a portion of the south transept. (See Fig. 312.) Another -arrangement was found desirable in those portions where there were no -aisles, as windows could be obtained in that case; while, with aisles -(as in the choir), the first floor was darkened by the roof of the - -[Illustration: FIG. 319.--Kelso Abbey. Plan of Doorway in North -Transept.] - -aisles. The windows in the different stories of the nave and transept -have all round arches, both outside (see Fig. 315) and inside, the -former having one plain square-edged order supported on nook shafts. Of -these the caps and bases only are now for the most part in existence. -The exterior is marked at each angle by broad and shallow Norman -buttresses, with nook shafts in the angles, and an interlacing arcade -running round the lower story, both internally and externally. - -In the façades of the west end and north transept the windows of the -different stories have been grouped so as to form distinct designs. In -the west end, over the great west doorway (see Fig. 315), there has been -an arrangement of tall windows of apparently lancet form, having on -either side an interlacing arcade of round arches, supported on tall -banded shafts. This is now, unfortunately, greatly destroyed. Above the -arcade there runs a horizontal flat cornice, enriched with several rows -of carved ornaments, and this was surmounted by a large opening of -quatrefoil shape, surrounded with numerous mouldings and enrichments. -The angle buttresses have been crowned with octagonal turrets. - -[Illustration: FIG. 320.--Kelso Abbey. Section through Transept from -North to South.] - -The north wall of the north transept (see Fig. 317) has a fine -transition door-piece (Fig. 318), which occupies the two lower stories. -The next two stories have two windows in each, separated by a small -buttress, the upper one of these stories having three arches in the -interior. (See Fig. 314.) Above these stories is a small circular -window, with a curious saving arch over it, and the whole is crowned -with a top story, containing three round-headed openings, and a gable -with a small circular aperture. The buttresses at the angles are crowned -with circular turrets, which have been finished with a projecting -parapet, the corbels for carrying which still survive. The upper part of -the gable shows signs of having been altered. - -It may be pointed out that the west front and the façade of the north -transept are good illustrations of the Norman and Transition styles - -[Illustration: FIG. 321.--Kelso Abbey. Plan at Triforium Level, showing -Passages in Walls, &c.] - -of designing such elevations. The north transept shows the early manner -of dividing the façade into several stories, piled one above the other; -while the west front, which is chiefly in the transition style, -indicates the beginning of the later form of façade, in which the whole -front is treated as a single design. - -The west doorway and the north door-piece are especially interesting. -The former is a remarkably rich specimen of the elaborate carved work -which characterised the late Norman period. Unfortunately, the south -half of this door-piece has perished. But, from what remains (see Fig. -315), it is evident that it consisted of a large door-piece, or -quasi-porch, projecting upwards of 5 feet, and finished with a sloping -gable, with - -[Illustration: FIG. 322.--Kelso Abbey. Plan at Clerestory Level, showing -Passages in Walls, &c.] - -stone roof. The jambs (see Fig. 316) contained five detached shafts set -in nooks, and having Norman bases and carved caps. Over each of these -shafts there springs a circular order, carved with rich Norman ornament, -now, however, very much decayed. The jambs of the doorway also formed -moulded shafts, supporting their order in the arch. - -The door-piece in the north wall of the transept (see Fig. 318) is also -a prominent feature. It projects about 4 feet 6 inches from the main -wall, is carried up two stories, and is roofed in with a sloping stone -roof. - -The lower story contains the doorway (Fig. 319), which is 5 feet 6 -inches wide, and has plain jambs. It is set back about 3 feet 6 inches, -and the ingoing for about 2 feet is square, and contains two shafts of -ordinary size, with a small one between them; then follows a nook -containing a shaft, and then the jamb. The shafts have the usual Norman -caps and bases. The mouldings of the arch (see enlarged outline in Fig. -319) are peculiar in their profile. They are enriched--the outer one -with small medallions, the central one with the billet, and the inner -one with rosettes. Above the archway there is an arcade of interlacing -round arches, the shafts, which are gone, having Norman caps. The -tympanum of the gable is covered with a reticulation of round beads or -rolls. - -[Illustration: FIG. 323.--Kelso Abbey. Upper Stages of Tower.] - -The tower (see Figs. 315 and 320), of which the south and west sides and -a small portion of the north and east sides remain, is 35 feet square -over the walls. It is carried up with plain masonry externally, but the -interior has immediately over the great arches of the crossing an arcade -of round moulded arches, supported on triple shafts similar to those of -the choir. Above this arcade is another story containing simple round -arched openings, which are lighted on the exterior by circular windows -containing quatrefoils. Over this tier is the top story, which contains -three pointed and deeply-recessed windows on each side of the tower. -Broad flat buttresses are placed at each angle of the tower, similar to -those of the main building, and these were, no doubt, originally -finished with turrets like those of the transepts. - -It has already been said that the upper part of the tower is later than -the lower part. This is apparent from the pointed windows of the top -story, and the quatrefoiled circular windows of the story beneath. The -lower story immediately over the great arches is, without doubt, of -about the same date as the choir. - -The approach to the upper floors is now by one staircase in the -north-west angle of the transept, but there were, doubtless, other -similar staircases in parts of the structure now removed. This staircase -gives access to passages which run round the building on every floor -(Figs. 321 and 322) between the arcades and the outer walls. In the -angles of the tower there are small wheel stairs leading to every floor, -and passages running round the tower on every story (Fig. 323.) These -arcades and passages have tended to weaken the structure, which it has -been found necessary to strengthen with numerous iron tie-rods, iron -beams, &c. - -There was an outer door in the south-west angle of the transept, and -another in the north wall of the nave adjoining the crossing. - -[Illustration: FIG. 324.--Kelso Abbey. Caps and Enrichments of Arcade.] - -The style of the caps of the arcade on the ground floor (Fig. 324) is -somewhat florid and unusual. The interlacing arches are also in some -places much carved and ornamented, and some portions are wonderfully -well preserved. - -A recess for a tomb is seen in the south wall of the transept (see Fig. -312), and in the recess beneath there are two ambries or lockers and a -piscina, the only one remaining in the building. - -To the south of the transept there is a vaulted chamber, 26 feet long by -10 feet 6 inches wide, which may have been the sacristy. It has a wide -entrance from the west, and an arcade with detached shafts and round -arches has run along each side. There has been a window at the east end, -and in the north-east angle a passage leading at a doorway to the -exterior, and also probably into the church. - - -ST. MARTIN’S CHURCH, HADDINGTON. - -This ruined structure stands on a slightly-elevated site at the east end -of the Nungate, a suburb of the town of Haddington, on the right bank of -the Tyne. The Nungate is joined to the town by an ancient bridge of -three wide arches and two smaller ones. St. Martin’s belonged to the -Abbey or Nunnery of Haddington, which was situated about one mile to the -east of the town. The nunnery was founded in 1178 by Ada, Countess of -Northumberland, widow of Prince Henry (son of David I.), and mother of -Malcolm IV. and William the Lion. The abbey is now entirely demolished, -and not a stone of it remains. St. - -[Illustration: FIG. 325.--St. Martin’s, Haddington. Plan.] - -Martin’s Chapel is the only ecclesiastical structure connected with it -which still survives. In 1567 the prioress, with consent of the chapter, -disponed the greater part of the lands of the abbey, which were -conferred by Queen Mary on William Maitland of Lethington. - -The chapel has all the appearance of being very ancient, “and probably -existed as a church when Alexander de St. Martin gave over to the -prioress and nuns his lands and tenements of St. Martinsgate.”[183] - -It is a simple oblong (Fig. 325), 55 feet in length by 16 feet 6 inches -in width internally, and appears originally to have had no buttresses; -but several have been added at a later date. The side walls are 4 feet 6 -inches in thickness, but do not appear to have been sufficiently strong -to resist the thrust of the barrel vault with which the building was -covered, and a portion of which (Fig. 326) still exists. - -In the east wall there is an opening (Fig. 327) with plain jambs and -round arch, which is sometimes called the doorway, but which is clearly -the chancel arch. From excavations made a few years ago, it was -ascertained that there were foundations of a choir 12 feet square, with -a square east wall. The arch is, doubtless, late Norman in design, -having a simple moulding on each jamb to form the imposts, and a plain -moulding running - -[Illustration: FIG. 326.--St. Martin’s, Haddington. Interior of West -End.] - -round the exterior of the arch stones on the side next the church. The -remains of a piscina adjoin the opening on the south side. The -round-headed windows in the side walls are tall and narrow, widely -splayed towards the interior, and covered with a large round arch on the -inside sconsion. There have originally been two entrance doors opposite -each other in the north and south walls, near the west end. The west -wall (Fig. 328) had a single-light window, similar to those in the side -walls; but it is now destroyed. The south doorway has been renewed, but -some portions of - -[Illustration: FIG. 327.--St. Martin’s, Haddington. View from -South-East.] - -the jambs of the north doorway still exist in a mutilated state. The -sconsion arch is segmental. - -The vault is lofty, and there has evidently been a story above it, as is -apparent from the windows in the west gable. The gables are very steep -and lofty, and are so constructed in order to admit of rooms in the top - -[Illustration: FIG. 328.--St. Martin’s, Haddington. View from -South-West.] - -story. The plan of having an upper story of this kind was not uncommon -in early churches. - -The window in the west gable is pointed, and it and the gables -themselves may be of later date than the original Norman church. - -As already mentioned, three buttresses have been built against each of -the side walls. These are entirely constructed with ashlar work of a -white freestone, and those at the east and west ends have the ashlar -work let irregularly into the old walls, as would undoubtedly be the -case in an addition. Besides, they have steep water-tables, such as were -introduced in the first pointed style, but were not used in the Norman -period. The old walls are built with irregularly-coursed brown -freestone, which is greatly worn away, and presents quite a marked -contrast to the buttresses, which have stood the weather well. A -peculiarity of the old walls is that they have numerous holes, about 10 -inches square in three courses in the height, running right through the -wall. These may have been putlog holes, used for scaffolding; but the -extraordinary thing is that they should all be left open. Possibly they -were only closed with a stone on the outside and inside, so as to be -easily made available at any time if required, and these stones may now -have fallen out. Similar rows of holes may be observed in the walls at -St. Helen’s and elsewhere. - -The church is surrounded by a burial-ground, which was used for -interments within recent years, but is now abandoned. - - -KIRKLISTON CHURCH, LINLITHGOWSHIRE. - -Some portions of the old Church of Kirkliston, situated about seven -miles west of Edinburgh, including the tower and two ancient doorways, -stand in the churchyard, on the high north-west bank of the Almond -Water, in the village of Kirkliston. The main body - -[Illustration: FIG. 329.--Kirkliston Church. Plan.] - -of the church, so far as can now be ascertained, was an oblong structure -(Fig. 329) about 60 feet in length by 26 feet in width externally, but -part of the north wall has been removed, so as to allow the church to be -extended. The old tower (Fig. 330) stands at the west end of the -structure. It is about 21 feet square, and has the solid buttresses -projecting on both sides of the angles, which indicate early -work--transition - -[Illustration: FIG. 330.--Kirkliston Church. View from South-West.] - -or first pointed. A square projection at the south-east angle of the -tower contains a wheel staircase. The windows are mere slits. The roof -of the tower is evidently comparatively new. It has a picturesque -seventeenth century belfry on the east gable. - -There is an old archway in the east wall of the tower, which connected -it with the main building of the church. - -[Illustration: FIG. 331.--Kirkliston Church. South Doorway.] - -In the south wall of the church there still exists, though partly -restored, a splendid Norman doorway. (Fig. 331.) The doorway itself -measures 4 feet 9 inches in width, and the whole door-piece measures 14 -feet 7 inches over all. Besides the attached rolls on the jambs, which -form shafts with caps, there are seven detached shafts on each side, -arranged alternately large and small, with three large ones at each -outer angle. These had all caps of transition form, but the carving is -now almost completely destroyed. The arch, which is semicircular, has -numerous mouldings, which are not arranged in the usual square orders, -but have - -[Illustration: FIG. 332.--Kirkliston Church. North-East Doorway.] - -received a freer treatment. The divisions may be regarded as composing -four orders, of which the inner order and the third order are enriched -with chevron ornaments. The hood moulding has also been carved with the -chevron, but the ornament has now almost all disappeared. - -The wall of the church in which the above doorway stands is undoubtedly -of considerable antiquity, the cornice which carried the original -parapet being still _in situ_. (See Fig. 330.) - -At the north-east angle of the existing church another Norman doorway, -removed from elsewhere in the building, has been re-erected. (Fig. 332.) -The round arch consists of three plain square orders, which spring from -the enriched caps of two nook shafts and the jamb moulding. Most of the -caps have a transition character, and the carving is fairly preserved. - -At the south-east angle of the church is erected the burial-house of -John, Earl of Stair, born 1672, died 1747. Over the moulded doorway is -the inscription, “Virtute decet non id sanguine niti. 1629.” - -Kirkliston from an early period belonged to the Knights Hospitallers of -St. John, who held much land in the locality. The church, as altered, is -still used as the parish church of Kirkliston. - -[Illustration: FIG. 333.--St. Mary’s. Ratho. View of West End.] - -ST. MARY’S CHURCH, RATHO, MID-LOTHIAN. - -The village of Ratho lies about one and a quarter mile south from the -railway station of the same name, and about eight miles west from -Edinburgh. - -The parish church is dedicated to St. Mary, and the “Lady’s Well,” in -the vicinity, is still in use. Although greatly altered and mostly - -[Illustration: FIG. 334.--St. Mary’s, Ratho. South Doorway.] - -rebuilt, the church still retains some indications of its Norman origin. -The view (Fig. 333) shows the west end of the church, crowned with its -belfry. The buttresses indicate considerable age, but it is scarcely -possible to fix their date. The only Norman relic preserved is the -doorway in the south-west wall (seen in the sketch). It is built against -by the wall of a wing, so that only a portion of the doorway remains -visible. This consists (Fig. 334) of one jamb, which had a nook shaft -and a cushion cap, carrying a plain round arch with a hood mould, carved -with a zigzag or saw-tooth ornament. - -Ratho Church was connected with Holyrood Abbey, and was a rectory. In -1444 the tiends and patronage were, with the consent of the Archbishop -of St. Andrews, made over to the College Kirk of Corstorphine, which was -then established. By this means four prebendal stalls were endowed. - - -ST. PETER’S CHURCH,[184] PETERHEAD, ABERDEENSHIRE. - -The remains of the Church of St. Peter, Peterhead (Fig. 335), consist of -the side walls of the chancel and the entire chancel arch, with a square -tower projecting outwards in the centre of the west wall of the nave. No -other portion of the nave remains. The tower and west wall are late, but -the chancel is of the Norman period. The arch is quite plain, and is -supported on square jambs having Norman cushion caps. - -There is a supposed reference to the church in the Book of Deer, in -1132, concerning a gift consecrated to St. Peter, Columcille, and -Drostan, who “were the tutelar saints of the Churches of Peterhead, St. -Colms, and Deer, which were the only churches in the district dedicated -to these saints.”[185] Their endowments were then gifted to the great -Columban Church of Dunkeld, with which they remained till the founding -of the Abbey of Deer, in 1218, when, it is believed, the patronage of -the Church - -[Illustration: FIG. 335.--St. Peter’s, Peterhead. View from South-East.] - -of St. Peter, at Peterhead, was conveyed to that abbey by the charter of -foundation, now not known to exist. - - -ST. MARY’S CHURCH,[186] RUTHERGLEN, LANARKSHIRE. - -Only the merest fragment of this ancient church now remains, consisting -of the east wall (Fig. 336), with an eastern tower attached to it. The -masonry of the east wall shows it to be of the Norman period. There has -been no opening of any kind in this wall. The returns of the chancel -walls are only indicated on the east wall by the slightest traces in the -jointing, so completely have they been cut away. The eastern tower (Fig. -337) is quite a unique feature in Scotland. It had no connection with -the church, although built against it, and is of later erection by -probably two or three centuries. The doorway is low and lintelled, and -has a simple splay. The upper part of the tower has apparently been -rebuilt, and, with the slated roof, dates doubtless from the seventeenth -century. The tower is about 10 feet 6 inches square inside, and about -34 feet high to the top of the masonry. It contains no stair. - -In Ure’s _History of Rutherglen_ it is stated that there was a nave with -side aisles, 62 feet long by 25 feet wide, “exclusive of the additions -on the back and front;” that is, exclusive of the side aisles. Assuming -these to have been eight or ten feet wide, we should have a church -nearly corresponding in size with the present erection, built about a -century ago, and occupying the site of the nave, as shown in outline on -the plan, on which are also indicated the nave piers. The nave was thus -about 62 feet long by 45 feet wide, and the chancel was about 42 feet -long by 20 feet wide inside. Ure, by a mistake easily made, gives the -dimensions of the chancel as ten feet less in length. He also mentions -that there were five pillars on each side of the nave. This may mean -four whole pillars and two halves (the responds), as shown in the plan, -which, however, merely pretends to approximate to something like what -the original was. - -[Illustration: FIG. 336.--St. Mary’s, Rutherglen. Plan.] - -Ure gives a drawing of the interior of the church, with detailed -sketches of some of the capitals of the piers. Four of these capitals -are preserved in a garden rockery in Rutherglen, and the annexed sketch -(Fig. 338) shows them as they are seen lying there half covered up and -concealed. The upper one, which shows the bed of the capital, is a -respond from one of the end walls, and the diameter of the column, as -indicated by the inner circle, is 18 inches, the breadth across the -abacus being 2 feet 5 inches. The enrichments of these capitals -correspond with those indicated by Ure in his view, and he informs us -that the pillars, of which there were five on each side, “are smooth and -round, except the middle ones, which are octagonal.” He further says -that the arcade “arches are pointed, but the point is hardly -discernible,” and with this the view in his book agrees. Above the -arcade he shows a small square window, probably measuring about 2 feet -each way, and widely splayed inside. Immediately above this was the -roof. The walls were “about 20 feet high, including the pillars on which -they are supported.” It is satisfactory to find Ure’s description of the -church supported by the - -[Illustration: FIG. 337.--St. Mary’s, Rutherglen. Tower, &c.] - -remaining fragments. The lower member, shown in Fig. 338, is a carved -stone, probably part of the chancel arch. It is enriched with the -alternate billet ornaments so frequent in such arches during the Norman -period. - -The church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and was granted to the -Abbey of Paisley by William the Lion before the year 1189, and it -continued in their possession down to the period of the Reformation. -There were several altars, with endowed chaplains. - -[Illustration: FIG. 338.--St. Mary’s, Rutherglen. Norman Caps.] - -The church stands near the west end of the cemetery, on the north side -of the main street. The entrance from the street is through a -picturesque lych-gate of Renaissance design, dated 1663. (See Fig. 337.) -It is surmounted by a sundial, dated 1679. - -The cemetery is mentioned in the charters of Paisley (No. 85) in the -year 1262, when the widow of John of Perthie grants to Paisley a piece -of land lying between the church of the Virgin Mary and the river -Clyde. - - -LAMINGTON CHURCH, LANARKSHIRE. - -The Norman doorway of this ancient church is still preserved. The church -has been altered and the doorway built up; but, doubtless, some of the -old walls still exist. - -The church and village were founded by one Lambin, in the twelfth -century. The doorway (Fig. 339) is in the north wall of the church. It - -[Illustration: FIG. 339.--Lamington Church. North Doorway.] - -is an elaborate example to find in this remote and quiet pastoral -district. The arch mouldings and ornaments are well preserved, but, -unfortunately, the shafts are wanting. The caps are quite plain. There -are three orders of mouldings, all enriched with characteristic Norman -ornaments. It will be observed that in that of the outer order the -spaces between the rings gradually diminish from the caps to the crown -of the arch. - - -ST. BOSWELLS CHURCH, ROXBURGHSHIRE. - -The Church of St. Boswells stands near the right bank of the Tweed, at a -point about half-way between the village of Lessudden and Maxton Railway -Station. The village of St. Boswells is stated to have formerly stood -near the church, but it has gradually and entirely disappeared, and the -nearest village to the church is now Lessudden, which is fully a mile -off. The situation is very fine, and the views of the Tweed, with its -wooded banks, in the vicinity are very beautiful. - -[Illustration: FIG. 340.--St. Boswells Church. Fragments.] - -The place is of great antiquity, and is supposed to have derived its -name from Eadwine of Northumbria. The church, which has been entirely -rebuilt, contains a few small relics of the Norman edifice which -undoubtedly once stood on the site. These consist of some carved corbels -(Fig. 340) and other fragments, which are evidently of Norman date, and -which have been preserved by being built into the restored church. - -The Church of Lessudden was bestowed on Dryburgh Abbey in the middle of -the twelfth century. - - -SMAILHOLM CHURCH, ROXBURGHSHIRE. - -As in Berwickshire, so in Roxburghshire, a large number of Norman -churches were erected during the Norman period. We have not attempted to -compile a list of these, as in most cases almost no trace of them now -remains, or so little that it can only be detected by an antiquarian. -There is, for example, the Church of Hassendean, of which Cardonell -gives a view of the chancel arch, granted by David I. to the Bishop of -Glasgow. This, judging from Cardonell’s view, must have been a rich and -important structure, with an eastern end similar to what we - -[Illustration: FIG. 341.--Smailholm Church. Plan, and View from -South-East.] - -find existing at Leuchars and Dalmeny. The Church of Upper Crailing was -granted in 1147 to the Abbey of Jedburgh; and at the same time Ganfrid -de Percy grants to the same abbey the lands adjacent to the Church of -Oxenham; and Ranulph de Sulis at the same time gives to the abbey the -Church of Castletown, and a little later in the century the Church of -Hownam and Eckford are similarly bestowed. The Church of Smailholm (Fig. -341) is distinctly a Norman structure throughout its entire length. -David I. granted the manor of Smailholm to David Olifard, and in the -ancient _Taxatio_ (beginning of the thirteenth century) the Church of -Smailholm was rated at 45 marks. Walter Olifard, who died in 1242, gave -the Church of Smailholm to Coldingham Priory. - -Merely the shell of this building is Norman. It was greatly altered in -the seventeenth century, when probably the chancel arch was cut out; and -in later times it has suffered severely, so that all its original -architectural details have been destroyed. - -The church consists of a nave, about 46 feet 6 inches long by 17 feet 3 -inches wide; a chancel, 25 feet 9 inches long by 14 feet wide--being a -total length of about 72 feet 3 inches. The present doorway to the nave -is, doubtless, in the position of the original one, and has been -enlarged. The chancel doorway is of the seventeenth century, and the -windows adjoining are probably enlargements of the originals made at the -same time. There were no windows in the north wall, and one in the west -wall is quite modern. - -There is a sundial on the south-west corner, bearing the date 1622, -which date is probably the date of the alterations referred to and of -the erection of the belfry. - - -LINTON CHURCH, ROXBURGHSHIRE. - -This church stands about six miles south from Kelso, and one mile and -a-half from Morebattle. It occupies part of a sandy mound on which, at -one time, there also stood the Castle of Linton. There was a church - -[Illustration: FIG. 342.--Linton Church. Tympanum in Porch.] - -here at an early date, records of Linton Church being found as far back -as 1127. It was then presented to the Monks of Kelso by Sir Richard -Cumin for the salvation of the soul of Prince Henry, eldest son of David -I. The lands of Linton soon after passed into the hands of the -Somervilles, as the reward granted to William de Somerville for having -destroyed a worm or dragon which had long been the terror of the -neighbourhood. This exploit is traditionally commemorated in a sculpture -in - -[Illustration: FIG. 343.--Linton Church. View from South-East.] - -the tympanum of the doorway of the ancient church (Fig. 342), in which -the knight is represented on horseback thrusting his spear into the -mouth of the monster. It seems more likely, however, that the sculpture -has rather an ecclesiastical connection, and may possibly represent St. -George - -[Illustration: FIG. 344.--Linton Church. Plan.] - -and the Dragon, being an allegorical representation of religion, or -faith overcoming evil. Possibly, the existence of the sculpture may have -given rise to the traditional account of it. In 1858, this sculpture was -removed from the old doorway and inserted over the entrance to a new -porch, then erected. The porch is seen in the sketch of the church. -(Fig. 343.) This sculptured tympanum is remarkable as one of the few -examples of sculpture in a similar position in Scotland. - -There is also a Norman font connected with the church, which was long -used in a blacksmith’s shop. - -The walls of the church are old, but it has been almost entirely -restored and renewed. (Fig. 344.) - - -DUNS CHURCH, BERWICKSHIRE. - -Not a stone of this church now remains. The chancel existed till the -year 1874 as a burial vault, when the minister of the parish, “under the -pretext of improving the churchyard,”[187] had it removed. The greater - -[Illustration: FIG. 345.--Duns Church. Plan.] - -part of the church was taken down in 1790, when a new church was built -on its site. We are enabled by the kindness of Mr. Ferguson, Duns, to -give a copy of an old plan which appears in his work on the Churches of -Berwickshire, and to the same source we are indebted for the following -historical notes regarding it. - -The Rectory of Duns is mentioned in Bayamund’s Roll (1275), and in the -ancient _Taxatio_ (end of the twelfth century) the parish is rated at -110 merks; so that it must have been a building of considerable -antiquity and importance. - -In 1296, the Rector, Henry de Lematon, took the oath of allegiance to -Edward I. - -From a photograph in Mr. Ferguson’s possession, of what remains of the -walls of the chancel the masonry looks very like Norman work. If one -might judge from the plan (Fig. 345), it evidently consisted of a long -nave and a chancel, with a north and south aisle or wing not opposite -each other, and probably built at later periods, such as are common in -connection with Scottish churches. The nave was about 72 feet long by -about 19 feet wide. The chancel was almost a square of about 17 feet, -thus corresponding with the Norman chancels of Ledgerwood and -Duddingston. - -The two narrow and widely splayed windows seen in the east gable -indicate early work, as do also the north and south doors near the west -end of the nave; the other numerous openings, especially of doorways, -were probably alterations. - - -ST. LAWRENCE CHURCH, LUNDIE, FORFARSHIRE. - -In the course of some recent operations on this church under the -superintendence of Mr. T. S. Robertson, architect, Dundee, it was -discovered that it had been a Norman structure. Of the original building -not much now remains, except the ashlar walls and a narrow window with a -wide internal splay and an outside check for a shutter. This window is -situated near the east end of the north wall. - -The apse appears to have been taken down, in 1786, during some -alterations, and the chancel arch, indicated in the sketch (Fig. 346), -was built up. A tomb house was erected on the site of the apse, where it - -[Illustration: FIG. 346.--Lundie Church in 1786.] - -still remains. The building was of small dimensions, being about 40 feet -long by 18 feet 6 inches wide. - -The fragment, of which a sketch (Fig. 347) is annexed, was found built -in a wall near the church. It appears to have been the top of a -sacrament house of late date. - -The church, which belonged to the Priory of St. Andrews, was dedicated -to St. Lawrence, Martyr. In the early taxations of the Priory it is -described as “the Church and Chapel of Lundie.” - -[Illustration: FIG. 347.--Sacrament House, Lundie.] - - -KIRKMAIDEN CHURCH, WIGTONSHIRE. - -The parish of Kirkmaiden has long been incorporated with that of -Glasserton. Formerly Kirkmaiden formed the port of Whithorn, and its -roofless church still stands close to the burial-ground near the -sea-shore. - -It consists (Fig. 348) of a nave, 37 feet 6 inches long by 18 feet wide -internally, and the walls are 4 feet in thickness. They are little -reduced from their original height, and the west gable is also little -diminished. - -[Illustration: FIG. 348.--Kirkmaiden Church. Plan.] - -There are only three openings in the walls--viz., a doorway and two -windows, all in the south wall. These were, till recently, greatly -destroyed, but they have been restored by Mr. Galloway,[188] who has no -doubt, judging from what remained, that they were all originally -round-headed, and has rebuilt them accordingly. - -So far as these indications go, this would appear to have been a Norman -church. There is an apparent chancel at the east end, but its dimensions -and origin are not distinct. It is now appropriated as the “Monreith -Vault” (the mansion of that name being in the vicinity), and contains a -good deal of modern work. - -One peculiarity of the east chamber is, that the north wall is in line -with the north wall of the nave, while the south wall is set back four -feet from the line of the south wall of the nave. - -There is an arch between the nave and chancel, but it has not the -appearance of a genuine chancel arch, being rudely formed with thin -slatey stones. A wing, 14 feet long by 12 feet wide, is jutted out at -the back or north side of the chancel. The walls are little over 2 feet -in thickness. There is a square-headed doorway in the south-west angle, -and an ambry or recess in the north wall. A roughly-built archway, -similar to that into the nave, but smaller, opened from the nave into -the north aisle, but is now built up. - -The nave seems to be of Norman date. The choir has evidently been -altered at a late period, and the north wing or aisle may have been -built in post-Reformation times as a burial vault. - -The ground to the north rises rapidly, and was filled in to the height -of the walls, till cleared out by Mr. Galloway. - -There would appear to have been some kind of extension to the west, but -only the lower parts of walls and buttresses now remain. This portion -was also filled with earth, and on being cleared out, remains of ten -skeletons were discovered. This west wall is at the extremity of a long -retaining wall, which encloses the present burying-ground, and runs -along close above the shore. - -The place is very curious and romantic, lying near the sea at the foot -of high cliffs, and densely wooded all round. - - -HERDMANSTON FONT, HADDINGTONSHIRE. - -This is one of the few minor relics of the Norman period which have -descended to our time. It stands in the burial vault of the Sinclairs of -Herdmanston, adjoining the mansion house of that name, about five miles -west from Haddington. - -The font is of yellow freestone, in one piece, and although somewhat -worn and battered in part, is still in a good state of preservation. The -base is partly damaged, and the surface of the top is somewhat broken -away towards the front (Fig. 349), so that it measures a little higher -at the back than at the front. - -As will be seen from the Plan (Fig. 350), the central part consists of -four rounded shafts, having a boldly pronounced base moulding. The -basin is in the form of a Norman cushion capital, with four rounds on -each face, the abacus having a splayed projection of about a quarter of -an inch. The font has evidently been meant to be placed against a wall, -as all its parts--base, shaft, and capital--abut against a square haffit -perfectly plain on the back, to admit of its standing in such a -position. The ends of this haffit are very much broken. - -The dimensions of the font are--base, 7 inches high; shaft, 17 inches; -capital, 11 inches; total height, 2 feet 11 inches. Width across shafts, -13¼ inches; capital, 16¾ inches across front, and from back to front, - -[Illustration: FIG. 349.--Herdmanston Font.] - -including haffit, 17¼ inches. The basin, which is rounded (see Plan), is -11¾ inches wide by 5 inches in depth. It is flat in the bottom and has -no perforation. - -In the thirteenth century, John de Saint Clair erected a chapel at -Herdmanston by leave of the Canons of Dryburgh, to whom he granted two -acres of land, with a condition that his chapel should not injure the -mother church of Salton, which belonged, in the time of David I., to -Dryburgh Abbey.[189] - -The vault at Herdmanston stands east and west. It is about 31 feet 10 -inches long by 14 feet wide, and has a small west window, with a -sconsion arch on the inside, and a smaller window in the south wall. -The structure, which is barrel vaulted, is of considerable age, but it -is not the chapel erected in the thirteenth century; and as the font is -a work of - -[Illustration: FIG. 350.--Herdmanston Font. Details.] - -the twelfth century, it is evident that it was not made for the chapel -of Herdmanston. - -[Illustration: From Dunfermline Abbey.] - - - - -THE TRANSITION STYLE - - -The term “transition” might be applied to any of the periods during -which one Gothic style is passing into another, as the buildings erected -at such periods partake of a transitional character. But the change from -the round arched and elaborately ornamented Norman to the pointed arched -and plainer style of the first pointed period being more marked than -that between any of the other Gothic periods, it has been generally -agreed to reserve the term “transition” for the architecture of the end -of the twelfth century, when the Norman style gradually gave place to -the first pointed Gothic style. - -The chief elements which mark the Transition style are the gradual -introduction of the pointed arch and its use along with some of the -decorative features of the Norman style. The pointed arch shows the -advent of the new style, but the ornaments of the old style continue to -linger for a time. The first pointed style was not complete till these -old ornaments were abandoned, and the more vigorous enrichments of the -new style were introduced. The other constructive features of the Norman -style gradually changed at the same time as the arch. The buttresses by -degrees assumed the projecting form of the first pointed style, and the -pinnacles and spires of the latter style were in course of time -introduced. - -During the progress of the Transition there was naturally a considerable -mixture of architectural elements. The round and the pointed arch were -used indiscriminately, and were frequently employed together in the same -structure, round arches being sometimes placed above pointed arches. Of -this there are examples in the nave of Jedburgh Abbey and the south -transept of Elgin Cathedral. In other instances, although the building -is chiefly Norman, the pointed style is introduced in certain positions; -as, for example, at Kelso Abbey, where to all appearance, contemporarily -with the Norman walls, the piers and pointed arches of the crossing are -in the first pointed style. At Dundrennan Abbey we find the older Norman -work partly converted into first pointed by alteration, and in other -examples, such as Coldingham, there is a mixture of the features of the -two styles. - -In many of the examples of the different periods, given or to be given, -some Norman features may be discovered which, it might be thought, -entitled the structures to be ranked as transitional. The buildings, -however, have been arranged under the various periods to which the most -prominent, not the most ancient, portions of their architecture belong. - -In England the period of Transition extends from about 1180 to 1200; -but, as we shall find, the corresponding period in Scotland extends -considerably into the thirteenth century. - - -DUNDRENNAN ABBEY, KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. - -The greater part of this very interesting structure has been demolished, -but what remains is so fine as to make one regret all the more the hard -usage the demolished portions have met with. - -The abbey stood in a small, but deep, valley on a few acres of -comparatively level ground lying on the west side of a little stream -called the Abbey Burn, about a mile and a-half from the sea. The edifice -is concealed in this remote and buried situation, and is with difficulty -discovered after traversing a hilly road of six or seven miles -south-east from Kirkcudbright. But when found, the quiet and secluded -site, and the peaceful aspect of the grey ruins, surrounded with ancient -trees, are very charming. - -The monastery has been of considerable extent (Fig. 351). The church was -large, being 209 feet from east to west by 108 feet from north to south -of the transept, and comprised a great nave with double aisles, a choir -without aisles, north and south transepts with eastern aisles, and a -tower and spire 200 feet high over the crossing. The monastic buildings -which surrounded the cloister garth were of the usual description, and, -to judge from the remains of the chapter house, were of exceptionally -fine design. - -Of all these extensive structures the great nave and the tower and spire -have almost entirely disappeared, and there now survive only portions of -the north and south transept and choir, a beautiful fragment of the -chapter house, some walls of cellars on the west side of the cloister -garth, and other walls containing a few carved caps which show how fine -the design of the cloisters must have been. - -The abbey was founded by David I. about 1142, and was colonised by -Cistercians from Rieval in Yorkshire. Its history is little known. -Robert I. and David II. both conferred lands upon it. In 1568, after her -flight from Langside, Queen Mary was welcomed at Dundrennan by Abbot -Edward Maxwell, brother of Lord Maxwell. The abbey was then entire, and -contained all its inmates. The queen embarked for England from Port -Mary, at the mouth of the Abbey Burn. - -In 1587 James VI. annexed Dundrennan to the Royal Chapel of Stirling, -and the Maxwells became the heritable bailies of the lands.[190] The -ruins now belong to the Maitlands of Dundrennan. It is not known how the -structure was reduced to its present dilapidated condition. By some it -is stated to have been destroyed by fire, while others attribute its -condition to neglect. It has undoubtedly met with the usual fate of - -[Illustration: FIG. 351.--Dundrennan Abbey. Plan.] - -our old abbeys, and was used as a quarry till 1842, when it was put in -repair by the Commissioners of Woods and Forests, and it is now in fair -preservation. - -The nave of the church (see Fig. 351) was 134 feet long within the -walls, and comprised eight bays. The central division was 31 feet wide, - -[Illustration: FIG. 352.--Dundrennan Abbey. Western Doorway.] - -and each aisle 16 feet wide, giving a total width of 63 feet internally. -Of this part of the church only portions of the west end and south wall -remain. The west wall contains the original western doorway, which is of -simple Transition design. The doorway had three nook shafts besides the -jambs, and the arches are in four orders of plain mouldings (Fig. 352). -The caps, which have square abaci, are peculiar from the large quantity -of very small nail head ornaments with which they are decorated (Fig. -353). The inner mouldings were renewed by the Government in 1842. The -west wall retains the responds of the main piers of the nave, and a -portion of one of the piers, being the westmost of the south arcade of -the nave, also exists, both showing a - -[Illustration: FIG. 353.--Cap of Western Doorway.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 354.--Dundrennan Abbey. From South-West.] - -bold early pointed section (see A on Plan). There were seven piers on -each side of the nave, besides the west responds and the piers of the -crossing. A good deal of early pointed work is also carried into - -[Illustration: FIG. 355.--Dundrennan Abbey. Wall Shafts in Clerestory of -Choir.] - -the transept, but it is clear, from the architecture of the building, -that the transepts have been originally erected in an earlier style, and -that the first pointed work is the result of alteration. This is -especially apparent in the north transept, the external walls of which, -on the west and north, are distinctly Norman, in character (Fig. 354). -The round arched windows (with square recesses or nooks for shafts on -the outside), the broad buttresses with small projections, and the form -of the caps are quite characteristic of that style. The same remarks -apply to the south transept so far as the outer walls survive. In the -choir also the Norman character of the early work is distinctly seen. -Only portions of the side walls of the choir remain, the east end having -been entirely demolished. In the upper or clerestory windows of the side -walls are found very characteristic examples of late Norman work. The -large plain round openings of the clerestory and the triple shafts with -Norman caps and corbels (Fig. 355) are unmistakable features. The choir -and transept were apparently at first completed in this style late in -the twelfth century, and sometime in the thirteenth century it has been -desired to build the nave on a larger scale. It has then been also -resolved to rebuild the interior of the transept, including the piers at -the crossing, in the same style as - -[Illustration: FIG. 356.--Arch of Doorway in Choir, and of Arcades in -Cloisters.] - -the nave, so as to bring the transept as far as possible into harmony -with the new design. The pointed work is evidently of an early character -(see Fig. 354). The squat round-headed windows of the clerestory, with -their broad internal splay occurring above the pointed windows of the -triforium, indicate a period of Transition. The use of the square abacus -is also general throughout the work. The very acute form of the main -arches of the transepts has probably arisen from the three bays having -to be fitted into the space between the old north and south end walls, -and at the same time requiring to be carried up as high as the main -arches of the new nave. The piers of the transept are 13 feet from -column to column, while those of the nave were about 16 feet from column -to column. The outer walls of the east aisles of the transepts, which -were part of the original Norman structure, were not renewed at the time -of the above alteration, but they have now been demolished, only -fragments being left, from which, however, the form of the vaults can be -inferred. - -[Illustration: FIG. 357.--Dundrennan Abbey. Monument in North Transept.] - -The smaller details of the eastern part of the building are greatly -destroyed. The sedilia and what seems to have been a fine monument in -the choir are broken in pieces. A door has been formed in the north and -south side walls of the choir leading into the east aisle of the -transepts. There are evident additions made, probably during this -century, when the - -[Illustration: FIG. 358.--Dundrennan Abbey. Plan and Details of West -Wall of Chapter House.] - -piers of the tower were rebuilt. The doorway into the south transept -aisle (Fig. 356) is distinguished by a large trefoiled head, enriched -with small nail head ornaments similar to those in the west doorway, but -there - -[Illustration: FIG. 359.--Dundrennan Abbey. Exterior of West Wall of -Chapter House.] - -is some doubt whether this is not a restoration. It will be observed -that the section of the piers of the nave and transept, and also the -piers of the crossing (see Fig. 351), bear a close resemblance to those -of Sweetheart Abbey. But the forms here are earlier, the fillet on the -outer angle being absent at Dundrennan, though present at Sweetheart. - -In the north wall of the aisle of the north transept, and in a round -arched recess (Fig. 357), lies the sculptured effigy of a knight wearing -a suit of chain armour, and with legs crossed. This is said to be the - -[Illustration: FIG. 360.--Dundrennan Abbey. Ornaments over Windows of -Chapter House.] - -statue of Alan, Lord of Galloway, who was interred in the abbey in 1234. -There seems also to have been a fine monument in the choir, and numerous -portions of cusped and carved work are to be seen piled up in the nave, -which may be fragments of this or some other ruined structure of the -same nature. - -The cloister garth is on the south side of the nave, and measures about -105 feet by 102 feet. The walls surrounding the cloisters are for the -most part old. In the north-east angle is the ancient doorway to the -nave, and in the north-west angle a more modern doorway. On the east - -[Illustration: FIG. 361.--Dundrennan Abbey. Interior of West Wall of -Chapter House.] - -side, adjoining the south transept, is the slype from which a wide door -(doubtless modernised) leads into the transept. To the south of the -slype stood the chapter house, which must have been a very beautiful -building, measuring 51 feet from east to west by 34 feet from north to -south internally. From some fragments of shafts which remain, and from -the responds against the west wall, it appears to have been vaulted in -three spans from north to south, with four bays from east to west, but -the vaults have now entirely disappeared. The front wall next the -cloisters, however, fortunately survives (Fig. 358). - -It is a splendid specimen of first pointed architecture (Fig. 359). In -the centre is the doorway, and on each side a window, divided into two -openings by a central shaft. The doorway and windows were, as usual, -designed to remain open, so that the brethren in the cloisters might -hear all that passed in the chapter house. - -The features are all beautifully designed, and the details are of the -purest and most elegant forms (see Fig. 358), the whole being enriched -with finely carved dog-tooth and other ornaments. - -[Illustration: FIG. 362.--Dundrennan Abbey. Caps in Cloisters.] - -In the arch mouldings a very profuse employment of the fillet is -noticeable. The panels in the tympanum over the double arch of the -windows, both in the exterior and interior, are filled in with plain, -but finely designed, geometric figures (Fig. 360), and the simple bold -cusps of the doorway have been carved with foliaceous scroll work, now -almost obliterated by decay. - -Internally the design of this front wall (Fig. 361) corresponds almost -exactly with that of the outside, but is, perhaps, even more effective -from containing the vaulting shafts and the springing of the broken -groins. - -The west wall of the chapter house is altogether a very exquisite piece -of pointed work, and was probably executed just before the disturbances -of the end of the thirteenth century, which interrupted, and for a time -stopped, all architecture in Scotland. The style is clearly later than -the early pointed work of the transept, the round abaci and the filleted -mouldings contrasting with the square abaci and the pointed or round -mouldings of the transept. - -On the west side of the cloisters is a row of ruinous cellars, still -partly vaulted, but not very accessible. On the south side are the door -to what may have been a large chamber, probably the refectory, and some -remains of domestic buildings. (See Fig. 361.) - -The north and east walls of the cloister still retain the remains of -some sharply cut caps, of what has been an arcade, with arches about 3 -feet 6 inches apart. The designs have evidently been very varied and -full of spirit (Fig. 362), but it is scarcely possible to find one -sufficiently well preserved to enable a complete sketch to be made. - -The monuments of this abbey are not numerous, but they are interesting. -In the recess of the north side doorway of the west end (now built up) -is a large figure of an abbot, with his crozier, standing on the -prostrate body of a man. This is known as the Abbot’s Stone. Another -monument is called the Cellarer’s Stone, and shows a figure standing on -serpents. It is dated 1480. There is also a monument containing a female -figure, with an inscription partly defaced, but bearing the date of -1440. A plain monument to Frater Blackmore is probably of the fourteenth -century. - - -JEDBURGH ABBEY, ROXBURGHSHIRE. - -The town of Jedburgh occupies a site about ten miles south from Kelso, -in the narrow valley of the river Jed, a tributary of the Teviot. The -main street rises gradually on the west side of the valley till a wider -point is reached, on which stood the monastery, above a bend of the -river. On a still higher point, at a short distance south of the abbey, -stood the Castle of Jedburgh, the subject of constant contention in -Border warfare. - -The position of the abbey on the height above the river as seen from the -level “haugh” on the opposite side, with a broad expanse of water in the -foreground, is commanding, and forms a very attractive landscape. - -A Priory of Canons Regular from Beauvais was established here by David -I. while Prince of Cumbria, in 1118. In 1147 the priory was raised to -the dignity of an abbey, and it was probably after this distinction that -the oldest portions of the existing structure were erected. - -The abbey was dedicated to the Virgin, and was amply endowed by David I. -and the nobles of the district. Little is recorded of its history, but -the abbots were occasionally men of distinction. - -In 1285, when John Morel was abbot, King Alexander III. was married in -the abbey with much ceremony to Iolanda, daughter of the Count de Dreux. - -Jedburgh formed a strong Border outpost, and was often attacked and -damaged in the wars with England. Under Edward I. the roof of the abbey -was stripped of its lead, and the conventual buildings were so damaged -that, in the year 1300, the monks had to seek refuge in other houses of -their order. During the fifteenth century the abbey frequently - -[Illustration: FIG. 363.--Jedburgh Abbey. Plan.] - -suffered from hostile invasion, and in consequence had to undergo -considerable repairs, as will be pointed out in connection with the -crossing and tower. - -[Illustration: FIG. 364.--Jedburgh Abbey. South Side of Choir.] - -Notwithstanding the frequent harrying and damage it sustained, the -fabric of the Abbey Church is still in a wonderful state of -completeness, but the monastic buildings which stood on the south side -of the church have been entirely swept away. - -The church (Fig. 363, Plan) consists of a choir, with side aisles -extending eastwards for two bays, beyond which was an aisleless -presbytery, the east end of which is demolished; a nave of nine bays, -which had vaulted side aisles (now greatly destroyed); a central -crossing, with a square tower above; a north transept, well preserved; -and a south transept, of which the south end is destroyed. - -The choir and presbytery, as already mentioned, have been greatly -damaged, and the east end is destroyed. It has been suggested that the -choir may have terminated with an eastern apse, but of this there is no -proof. What survives (Fig. 364) consists of the two bays next the -crossing, the lower portions of which are in the Norman style. The main -piers have the peculiarity of being carried up as massive cylindrical -columns to the height of the arch over the triforium. This arrangement -is unique in Scotland, but is not unknown in England. A somewhat similar -design is carried out at Gloucester Cathedral, where the massive -cylindrical piers are of great height, but they are not divided into two -stories. At Romsey Church, Hampshire, however, the same arrangement -occurs as at Jedburgh (Fig. 365), the tall round piers being divided by -an intermediate arch, which supports the upper gallery or triforium. - -[Illustration: FIG. 365.--From Romsey Church, Hampshire.] - -At Jedburgh the lower story has the round arch and vaulting ribs -supported on corbels (Fig. 366), projected from the round face of the -piers. - -[Illustration: FIG. 366.--Jedburgh Abbey. South Aisle of Choir, looking -West.] - -A similar plan is adopted at Romsey and also at Oxford Cathedral. The -upper or triforium arch at Jedburgh is round and moulded, and contains a -well wrought chevron ornament. It rests on large caps of the divided -cushion pattern. The main arch is formed into two openings by a central -round shaft and two half round responds, with massive cushion caps -carrying plain arches. - -The clerestory is of Transition work, having one lofty stilted and -pointed arch and two smaller pointed arches in each bay. These spring -from clustered shafts, consisting of four smaller shafts grouped into -one. They have plain bell caps and foliaged caps alternately, all with -square abaci. The arches have bold mouldings and a label. - -At the time when the transitional clerestory was erected, the eastern -part of the choir appears to have been built, as the remains of two -lofty pointed windows are preserved to the east of the cylindrical piers -(Fig. 367). These lofty arches have sprung from shafts with Transition -caps at the level of the triforium floor, and a pointed arcade beneath -seems to have been continued round the east end of the choir and -presbytery. - -The same Norman style of architecture as in the choir is continued in -the south and north transepts, and appears to have originally also -extended into the nave. This is apparent from the mode in which the -string course over the triforium runs along on the north side from the -choir to the nave, where it is broken off. That the Norman nave has -probably extended westwards from the crossing is further evidenced by -the existence of the west end wall, with its great doorway and windows -and the south doorway to the cloister, which portions are all of -characteristic Norman design. - -Whether the Norman nave had only been projected, but never -completed--only the west wall with its doorway and windows and the south -doorway being erected--or whether the nave had been finished and -afterwards destroyed, it is impossible to say. It is, however, evident -that the Norman work in the choir and in the western and south doorways -must have preceded the Transition work in the choir and nave by a -considerable amount of time. The styles in both cases are quite -distinct, and there is evidently a considerable hiatus between them. -They do not follow one another by gradual development. - -The nave is 129 feet in length and 27½ feet in breadth in the central -aisle, and measures about 57 feet in width internally over the aisles. - -It is divided into nine bays, each of which (Fig. 368) comprises a main -arch resting on clustered piers, a triforium with one round arch -containing two pointed arches, and a clerestory forming a continuous -arcade, with four pointed arches in each bay. The main clustered piers -contain (Fig. 369) four principal shafts at the angles and four -intermediate shafts between them. The former are brought to a point on -the face, the latter are flatter. The caps are simple and of an ordinary -transitional - -[Illustration: FIG. 367.--Jedburgh Abbey. South Side of Choir and -Crossing.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 368.--Jedburgh Abbey. The Nave, looking West.] - -form (Fig. 370), each with a square abacus. The bases are also simple -and stand on a massive square plinth, a feature not uncommon in Norman -work. The arches of the main arcade are somewhat acutely pointed, and -the mouldings are bold, and resemble first pointed work. (See Fig. 369.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 369.--Jedburgh Abbey. Details.] - -In the triforium (Fig. 370) the principal arches are round, being an -example of the round arch placed above the pointed arch. Each round arch -is divided into two openings by smaller pointed arches, which contain -first pointed mouldings (Fig. 371). The larger arches spring from -clustered - -[Illustration: FIG. 370.--Jedburgh Abbey. Details.] - -shafts with bell caps and square abaci. The central pillars of the -smaller arches vary in section. Those in the east part of the nave -consist of four shafts united into one (being the same section as those -of the clerestory of the choir), while those in the portion of the nave -to the west of the centre are composed of two shafts. The shield between -the smaller arches is perforated with a small circle. The simple -constructional main arches of the triforium are seen on the exterior -(Fig. 372), where also the corbels to carry the timbers of the roof of -the triforium gallery are visible. - -[Illustration: FIG. 371.--Jedburgh Abbey. Plan of one half Bay of -Clerestory.] - -The clerestory shafts are of trefoil section both on the exterior and -interior (Fig. 373), and have foliaged caps of first pointed design. In -the interior the caps have the angles of the abaci cut off so as to make -them octagonal. The arches are all pointed, and contain first pointed -mouldings. A corbel table supports the cornice on the exterior, and -there are two small ornamental arches between every two corbels (Fig. -374). Over each main pier a small buttress is introduced in the exterior -of the clerestory, - -[Illustration: FIG. 372.--Jedburgh Abbey. View from North-West.] - -and a plain standard in the interior. These buttresses are projected on -small corbels, and do not rise above the arches. It is thus evident that -it was never intended that the central aisle of the nave should be -vaulted, there being no suitable buttresses provided to resist the -thrust of a vault. The side aisles, however, were vaulted, but the -vaults are now demolished, only some fragments of the ribs being left, -as shown in Fig. 372. - -As already mentioned, the west end of the nave (see Fig. 374), and -especially the western doorway, are quite Norman in character. The west -doorway (Fig. 375) is a noble specimen of its period. The ingoing - -[Illustration: FIG. 373.--Jedburgh Abbey. Clerestory Details.] - -is deeply recessed, and has contained five free nook shafts on each -side, besides the door jamb, with intermediate shafts and elaborate -enrichments. The caps are foliaged, and of late Norman character. In the -arch there is an order over each shaft, and intermediate enrichments and -mouldings. The ornaments consist of the chevron, both solid and under -cut, and other greatly relieved enrichments and rosettes. - -The jambs of the doorway and the arch over it contain heads and other -ornaments in panels, now much decayed. The doorpiece projects some feet, -and on the north side of the projection a small round arch (see Fig. -374) can be traced. - -The doorpiece is surmounted by three little gablets. The central one - -[Illustration: FIG. 374.--Jedburgh Abbey. West End and part of North -Side.] - -contains a trefoiled arch, and those at the sides seem to have contained -a similar arch, but they are now much decayed. - -The west wall has flat buttresses of Norman character (see Fig. 374) at -each side of the central aisle, and the upper portion of the wall has a -central round-headed window, flanked on each side by three small pointed -arch heads, the caps carrying which rested on long single free shafts, -now gone. The central window has deep mouldings, but no enrichment. The -west front has been finished with an octagonal turret at each side, as -at Kelso Abbey, and the gable contains a central circular window, which -has been filled with tracery at a late date. The west end walls of the -aisles have each contained a circular headed window of Norman design, -with a chevron ornament in the arch and a nook shaft at each side. - -The south doorway (Fig. 376), leading from the cloister into the nave -above referred to, is of late Norman design. It is extremely rich in its -decoration, though somewhat decayed. It contains the remains of several -shafts and enrichments in the jambs, and the caps have been very -elaborate in their carving. The round arch head contains four orders of -mouldings. The inner order and the door jambs are both carved with the -same chevron ornament; the next order consists of plain mouldings; the -third order is enriched with figures comprised in small semicircles; and -the outer order contains a deep series of zig-zags. The whole is -enclosed with a small label. The doorpiece projects, the outer angle -having a bold bead, and a small cornice runs along the top. - -The above description of the nave and its Norman west end and doorways -will make clearer what has already been indicated with regard to the -completion or restoration of the edifice in the Transition period. The -suggestion is that the lower part of the walls of the choir and the -western wall and doorway and south doorway being all of Norman work, it -seems probable that the whole building was set out and partially -executed in Norman times, and that the work was either stopped for a -considerable period and then resumed, or that the structure, after being -completed, was destroyed, and had to be restored in the late Transition -style. - -The Transition work is well advanced in style, and may be regarded as -being of the date of the end of the twelfth century, or beginning of the -thirteenth century. - -The Norman north transept, as already mentioned, is fairly well -preserved, but both the north and south transepts have undergone great -repairs about the end of the fifteenth century. The crossing appears to -have been so greatly damaged by the assaults of the fifteenth century -that it was found necessary to rebuild it. The restoration is distinctly -visible (see Fig. 364) in the south-east pier of the crossing, the style -of which is quite different from that of the Norman work adjoining in -the choir and south transept (Fig. 367), and the junction of the new -work with the old is very apparent. This pier has clearly been rebuilt. -It is plain next the crossing, but next the aisle it consists of a -series of - -[Illustration: FIG. 375.--Jedburgh Abbey. West Doorway.] - -shafts (see Fig. 366), with a moulded cap of late date. The upper -mouldings of the cap form a continuous straight line, while the bells of -the caps are broken round the shafts; a style of cap common in Scotland -at the end of the fifteenth century. - -This pier and the south aisle of the choir beside it appear to have been -restored by Abbot John Hall (appointed 1478), whose name occurs on the -pier and on one of the bosses. The south-west pier of the crossing has -also been rebuilt. This work was carried out by Abbot Thomas Cranston -(appointed 1482). On a shield on this pier (see Fig. 367) are carved the -arms and initials of Abbot Cranston--three cranes and two pastoral -staves--saltierwise. - -The same abbot’s initials are placed on the north side of the west arch -of the crossing, where the chamfer begins, and on the lower part of the -north-west pier. The south-west pier, the north-west pier, and the arch -between them would thus appear to have been rebuilt by Abbot Cranston. -The base inserted by him is different from the old Norman base. - -About half-way up the south-east pier, rebuilt by Abbot Hall, the -springer of an arch (see Fig. 364) may be seen projecting to the west. -Abbot Hall has evidently intended to throw an arch across the transept -at this point, but Abbot Cranston changed his plan, and the arch was not -carried out. The mouldings of the portions executed by the two abbots -differ in their respective parts of the structure. - -To the north of the original Norman north transept an addition to the -transept has been erected. It is cut off from the old transept by a -wall, and thus forms a separate chapel, measuring 27 feet in length by -22 feet in width internally. - -This chapel is vaulted with the pointed barrel vault usual in Scotland -in the fifteenth century, and, consequently, the side windows are low -(see Fig. 372), their pointed arch being kept below the springing of the -vault. The window in the north end wall, however, is of large -dimensions. The windows are all filled with good fifteenth century -tracery, similar to that in the restored south aisle of the choir (see -Fig. 364). - -This part of the edifice is now used as a mortuary chapel for the family -of the Marquess of Lothian. - -The tower over the crossing (see Fig. 372) is 33 feet square and 86 feet -in height. It contains three pointed and cusped lancets on each side, -and is without buttresses. It appears to have been erected about 1500. -At the top, near the north-west corner, are engraved the arms and -initials of Abbot Robert Blackadder, who was afterwards promoted to the -offices of Bishop and Archbishop of Glasgow. He was appointed to that -see in 1484, and died 1508. His arms are a chevron between three roses. - -Soon after the abbey had been restored as above described it was again -attacked, pillaged, and burnt by Surrey in 1523. The damage then caused -was once more repaired in 1544. The abbey is described by Sir Ralph -Eure as “the strength of Teviotdale,” and by Hertford as “a house of -some strength which might be made a good fortress.” - -These generals of Henry VIII. had evidently cast their eyes on it as - -[Illustration: FIG. 376.--Jedburgh Abbey. South Doorway of Nave.] - -an obstacle in their path, and resolved to get rid of it. The abbey was -pillaged and burnt by both (by the first in 1544 and the last in 1545), -and never recovered from the devastation it then suffered. - -In 1559 the monastery was suppressed, and the revenues went to the -Crown. In 1574-5 the roof of the refectory was removed, and the timber -used for repairing the tower. The Abbey Church stood in a ruinous state -till the nave was partly roofed in at the triforium level to form a -presbyterian place of worship. It remained in this condition till 1875, -when a new church was erected, and the old abbey was cleared out. - -The crown arch of the tower fell in 1743. The groined arches of the -aisles continued in existence till the end of last century. In 1793 the -south aisle was removed, and a wall built between the pillars to make -the church more comfortable. - -The ruins of the abbey are now well cared for and protected. - - -KINLOSS ABBEY, MORAYSHIRE. - -This was one of the monastic establishments founded in Moray by David I. -in order to extend the benefits of civilisation to the remoter regions -under his sway.[191] The story told with reference to this foundation is -similar to the legend regarding Holyrood. The king had lost his way in -the wood while hunting, and was guided by a deer to an open place, -where, as was afterwards revealed to him by the Virgin, he was to found -a church in her honour. The abbey was founded in 1150, and colonised by -King David’s favourite order of Cistercians from Melrose. It was endowed -with lands by its founder, and subsequently received grants from his -successors--Malcolm, William the Lion, and Alexander II.--as well as -from private donors. Robert I. presented the abbey with fishings. Edward -I. and Edward III. both visited Kinloss, the former in 1303 and the -latter in 1336. - -The chartulary of Kinloss Abbey is not preserved, but its traditions and -an account of the abbots has been written by John Ferrerius, a native of -Piedmont, who was for several years an inmate of the establishment. -Robert Reid, afterwards Abbot of Kinloss and Bishop of Orkney, formed -his friendship while a student in Paris, and brought him over to this -country about 1528, where he acted as lecturer and instructor of youth. - -Ferrerius gives a long account of the different abbots and the various -works executed by them, which would have been of great interest had the -buildings survived; but they are now, unfortunately, reduced to such -mere fragments that it is impossible to trace the various structures -referred to. - -In 1528 Robert Reid was installed as abbot. Abbot Reid is associated -with several of our ecclesiastical edifices, especially Beauly Priory -and Kirkwall Cathedral. He occupied a somewhat prominent position in -the country, and was sent on several embassies to Henry VIII. and -Francis I. Under him the abbey lands were erected into a burgh of -barony. In 1530 he received the gift of the Abbey of Beauly _in -commendam_, where he erected many new buildings. He also added greatly -to the abbey of Kinloss, and amongst other improvements he built a -spacious fire-proof library, and enriched it with many volumes. The new -abbot’s house, the remains of which are seen in the view (Fig. 377), was -also erected by him about 1537. In 1538 he invited Andrew Bairhum, a -celebrated painter, to come to Kinloss, where he was occupied for three -years in painting altar pieces. He also brought William Lubias, an -intelligent gardener, to Kinloss from Flanders, who introduced great -improvements in the cultivation of fruit trees into the country. In 1541 -Abbot Reid, while retaining his existing preferments, was appointed to -the Bishopric of Orkney. There, too, he erected many new structures. - -It is to the liberality of this enlightened prelate, who was a great -encourager of learning, that we owe the foundation of the College of -Edinburgh. When the Court of Justice had been instituted by James V., -Bishop Reid was appointed president in 1549. - -Bishop Reid was succeeded in the abbacy of Kinloss by his nephew, Walter -Reid. He was the last abbot, and by him a great part of the lands of -Kinloss and Beauly were alienated. He subscribed the first covenant in -1560, and was married, and his wife after his death became possessed of -the abbey. Certain of the lands and fishings, however, were assigned to -Edward Bruce, who was commendator after the Reformation, and in whose -favour they were raised into a temporal lordship as Lord Bruce of -Kinloss. From him are descended the Earls of Elgin. - -Till about 1650 the buildings of the abbey are believed to have remained -tolerably entire. They were conveyed, in 1645, to Brodie of Lethen, by -whom the materials were sold, to be utilised in the construction of -Cromwell’s citadel at Inverness. The chapter house had been used as a -place of worship up to that time, and it was found necessary to erect a -new church in lieu of the chapter house, which had been removed. - -From the above cause the remains of Kinloss Abbey, as already mentioned, -are mere fragments. The outline of the cloister garth, which measures -about 100 feet by 90 feet, can be traced (Fig. 378), the walls on the -south and west sides being fairly preserved. On the north side the -foundations of what was, doubtless, the south wall of the nave of the -church are visible, and on the east side part of the wall of the south -transept still stands. Of the church there only survives a small and -tottering fragment of the south transept, with part of the eastern -chapels and a long vaulted chamber to the south, which is on a lower -level than the transept. A small portion of old wall is observable to -the north, opposite the south transept, and is probably a survival of -the north transept wall. This gives an indication of the probable -position of the church, as shown by clotted lines on the Plan. The -church consisted of the usual divisions of nave, choir, and transepts, -with a tower over the crossing. The tower was erected by Abbot Guthrie -about 1470-80, and it fell in 1574. - -There have been vaulted apartments on the south side of the long vaulted -chamber lying south of the transept, as is apparent from the remains of -pointed arches on the outside of the south wall (see Fig. 377). This -sketch also shows the height of the transept chapel above the vault to -the south of it. Similar remains of pointed arches on the west side of - -[Illustration: FIG. 377.--Kinloss Abbey. Abbot’s House from South-East, -and portions of the Church.] - -the west wall of the cloister show that vaulted apartments ran along -that side also. - -All appearance of ornamental work or hewn work of any kind has been -removed, with the exception of one archway in the south wall of the -cloister and an arched recess adjoining (Fig. 379). These seem from -their style to have been part of the original abbey. The ornament of the -gateway is distinctly transitional in character, and was probably -erected in the beginning of the thirteenth century. Although the arch is -circular, the dog-tooth of the hood mould is first pointed, while the -large undercut cross enrichment is a survival of Norman character. The -round abacus of the caps, however, is decidedly first pointed in style. -This seems to have been an archway leading into the cloister. The arched -recess to the eastward, which was doubtless a monument, is rather later -in - -[Illustration: FIG. 378.--Kinloss Abbey. Plan.] - -style, but seems to belong to the thirteenth century. The corbels which -carried the roof timbers of the cloister walk still survive. They are -moulded in the first pointed style. The water table above the roof is -also partly preserved. - -[Illustration: FIG. 379.--Kinloss Abbey. Archway in South Wall of -Cloister, and Abbot’s House from North-West.] - -The abbot’s house (see Figs. 377 and 379) stands to the south of the -abbey. It consists of an oblong structure, which now measures about 50 -feet in length by 27 feet in width within the walls, with several -vaulted cells on each side, all now in ruins, and thickly clothed with -ivy. The best preserved parts of the structure are the east wall, with -its gable, and the round tower at the south-east angle, which contained -the entrance doorway and staircase. Over the doorway is a panel (Fig. -380) with ogee arched head containing the shield of Abbot Reid (a stag’s -head) and his initials and crozier. - -The plan of the abbot’s mansion resembles that of a baron’s house of the -sixteenth century. The basement appears to have contained the kitchen, -with cellars, and a passage with small windows. On the first floor would -be the hall, with small rooms opening off it, and bedrooms on the upper -floor. - -The ruins stand on level ground near the mouth of the Findhorn, a short -way from Kinloss Station, between Elgin and Forres. - -The ground has always been fertile, and is well watered by a stream -which passes close to the ruins. The whole space in which the ruins of -the abbey stand is now enclosed with a wall, and used as a -burial-ground. - -[Illustration: FIG. 380.--Kinloss Abbey. Panel in Abbot’s House.] - - -THE NUNNERY, IONA. - -When Reginald, Lord of the Isles, in 1203, introduced Benedictine monks -into the Monastery of Iona, a convent for Benedictine nuns was founded -in the island, of which Beatrice, sister of Reginald, was the first -abbess. The deed of confirmation of the nunnery still exists at the -Vatican, dated 1203. - -The ruins of the building, which apparently was erected soon after that -time, still survive. (Fig. 381.) They consist of a quadrangle about 68 -feet square, having the church on the north side; foundations of the -chapter house and other apartments on the east side; and the refectory -on the south side. There may have been other buildings on the west side, -as the walls are broken at the ends; but, if so, they are now removed. - -The church is an oblong structure, 58 feet in length by about 20 feet in -width. It has been divided into nave and choir, and has had a northern -aisle extending along both. - -The choir is about 20 feet square, and has been vaulted. It is separated -from the nave by a group of shafts at each side (Fig. 383), which -supported a round arch with early mouldings (Fig. 382), and there are - -[Illustration: FIG. 381.--The Nunnery, Iona. Plan.] - -vaulting shafts in the angles of the east wall. The choir has had two -windows to the east, separated by a small piece of wall. The floor is -raised two steps above the level of the nave. There is a doorway in the -north wall leading into the eastern portion of the aisle, which may have -been the Lady Chapel or sacristy. This building is vaulted, and has an -upper story, approached by a very narrow stair in the thickness of the -north wall. - -The chapel on the ground floor has had an altar to the east, and a -piscina in the south wall. The east window is a mere slit, and has a -straight-sided arch head, doubtless a late insertion. - -The arch in the west wall of this chamber (Fig. 384) has Norman responds -and mouldings, and the groins of the vault have simple rolls. - -The nave has three round arches (see Figs. 383 and 384) opening into the -north aisle. These arches spring from circular pillars and responds, -which have caps of apparently Norman design. They are much decayed, but -the ornament has some resemblance to that of the caps in the chapter -house and high aisle of the cathedral. The arches are now built up, but -the mouldings seem to correspond with those of the chancel arch. The -doorway from the cloister, in the south-west angle of the church, has -two nook shafts supporting a round arch. - -[Illustration: FIG. 382.--The Nunnery, Iona. Arch Mouldings of Chancel -Arch at =A= on plan.] - -The most of the above portions of the structure appear to belong to the -transition period, and were probably erected soon after the convent was -founded. The choir and sacristy are undoubtedly original, but the nave -and aisle and upper part of the structure appear to have been rebuilt, -probably at a late date. The upper part of the nave is of an undefined -character. The small windows have round arches, and might be transition -work; but they are placed over the piers, not over the arches, as was -invariably the case in early buildings. - -The west wall is very plain. It has a tall round-headed window on the -church level, with a string course stepped over it, and a small window -is introduced in the gable, which might be of almost any period. A -series of corbels occurs in the south-west wall over the doorway. They -are carved with grotesque heads, and appear to have supported a wooden -floor--perhaps an organ gallery. There has been a doorway in the north -wall of the aisle. It had two nook shafts, but it has now almost -disappeared. A portion of a cross wall is visible in the aisle, with -what may have been the seat of an altar against it. - -Within recent years considerable excavations and repairs have been - -[Illustration: FIG. 383.--The Nunnery, Iona. View from South-East.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 384.--The Nunnery, Iona. View from North-West.] - -made in the building. The position of the cloister garth has been -defined by a low wall; and the site of the chapter house on the eastern -side, with its stone seat running round it (see Fig. 383), has been -disclosed. The other apartments on this side remain indefinite, but the -position and walls of the refectory on the south side are distinct. This -part of the structure has had an upper story, probably a dormitory. The -south, east, and west walls, with their small windows, are still -preserved. There was, no doubt, a dormitory over the east side of the -quadrangle, but the walls there are now only a few feet in height. - -At a distance of about 30 feet north from the convent church stands -another building, said to have been the parish church. (See Fig. 381.) -It is dedicated to St. Ronan, and is a simple oblong chamber, 37 feet -long by 16 feet wide internally. - -It has a small window in the centre of the east wall, and the seat of -the altar still remains. In the north and south wall, near the east end, -are the remains of two windows, which have apparently been rather wider -than the east window. - -The doorway has been at the north-west angle, and has had a single nook -shaft in each jamb; but that part of the structure is now much -destroyed. The whole building is constructed with the plain rubble work -usual in West Highland churches. - -Numerous very fine specimens of Celtic carved work are preserved in the -monumental stones which have been found and are preserved in the -convent.[192] Amongst these is the monument of the last prioress. On it -are carved the figure of the prioress, surmounted by a rude Gothic -canopy, and an inscription bearing the date of 1543. It also contains -the ancient symbols of the mirror and the comb. - - -ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH, ABERDEEN. - -This church, said to be the largest mediæval parish church in Scotland, -is still preserved and used as the principal church of Aberdeen; but -only two portions of the ancient work remain--viz., the transepts and -the crypt at the east end, below the choir. The nave was rebuilt about -the middle of last century by Gibbs, the well-known architect of St. -Martin’s-in-the-Fields Church, London, and the Radcliffe Library, -Oxford. It is, of course, in the Renaissance style of the time, and the -interior is very dignified. The choir was entirely taken down in 1835 -and rebuilt in the most tasteless fashion. The walls of the crypt and -transepts were all refaced except the north front of the transept, -which, however, is of no great architectural value, having been altered -considerably in the seventeenth century; in any case, it forms a -pleasing contrast to the very rigid and inartistic new masonry. The -central tower, with the leaded spire, was burned in 1874, and the -existing central spire was thereafter erected. In these circumstances, -it is only the interior of the transept and crypt which come within the -scope of the present work. - -The transepts (Fig. 385) measure internally about 103 feet by 20 feet 10 -inches, and are of the transitional style of the end of the twelfth -century. The openings into the nave and choir are now built up. There - -[Illustration: FIG. 385.--St. Nicholas’ Church, Aberdeen. Plan.] - -seems always to have been a solid wall between the transept and the nave -aisles, with only a small opening of communication in each of about the -size of an ordinary doorway. These openings are of a very plain and -simple design (Fig. 386). The piers which carry the central tower (Fig. -387) are of the usual transitional type, having graceful capitals and -square abaci supporting round arches. These are shown in detail in Fig. -388. They are not visible in the choir and nave. - -On each side of the north transept there are two original clerestory -windows, those on the east side are seen in Fig. 389, and one of them, -which would overlook the roof of the choir aisle (Fig. 390), has angle -shafts, with carved caps and mouldings. The present large north window -of the transept (seen in Fig. 389), the tracery of which is of very late -work, has remains of its original features, and in the low pointed -recess seen in the same view there is a transition attached shaft, with -carved cap and square abacus. There is only a shaft on one side of the -recess (as shown on Plan). The pointed arch of this recess, as well as -the tomb alongside, below the large window, are of later work. - -On the west side of the north wall there has been a round arched -doorway, of which traces are yet visible. This is probably the doorway -referred to in the following extract of the 10th January 1518--“The said -day, the toone consentit and ordanit thair masteris of Kirkwerk to -translat thar () and passag to the rudloft, and big up Sanct Nichell -dur, and mak a fair wyndo in that gavill of thar croce kirk.”[193] - -[Illustration: FIG. 386.--St. Nicholas’ Church. Doorway between Transept -and Nave Aisles.] - -The “fair wyndo” is, doubtless, the window in the north end wall just -referred to as having been altered, and seen in Fig. 389. The foregoing -are the only original features of the upper church now remaining, all -else is of the fifteenth and following centuries, and consists generally -of the wide pointed openings leading into the choir; and in the south -transept of a fifteenth century sculptured tablet of fine design (Fig. -391) with the following modern inscription beneath--“The above stone -represents the Chantry or Annual Mass to be sung for his soul. Founded -by William Leith, of Barns, Provest of Aberdeen in 1351, who, with many -of his Descendants, is Interred underneath.” The monument has had an -inscription, now illegible, and has suffered considerably either from -neglect or mischief. - -The crypt at the east end of the choir is shown on Plan in its proper -relation to the transepts, but it is on a lower level. Although, as -already stated, no part of the choir now remains, the walls drawn in -outline are - -[Illustration: FIG. 387.--St. Nicholas’ Church. The Crossing.] - -built on the site of the old walls, and show that the choir consisted of -five bays, with an apse. The total interior length from the east wall of -the apse to the tower is about 102 feet. It may be mentioned that the -total internal length of the existing church from the west end of the -nave to the apse is about 234 feet. - -The crypt was approached by two stairs, one from the north and another -from the south aisle of the choir. These are now swept away, and only -their round arched openings remain as recesses in the walls of the -crypt. As these recesses are at a considerable height, most of the steps -were probably in the crypt. The stairs shown on the Plan with the -windows and doors are all quite modern. The latter lead out to the -street, which is at the level of the floor. - -The length of the crypt (which corresponds with the width of the choir) -is about 65 feet. The crypt consists of one central and two side aisles, -with an eastern apse. The plan of these divisions indicates that the -central aisle of the choir was only about 3 feet wider than the side -aisles, a very unusual arrangement, the side aisles being generally much -narrower than the central one. The width of the crypt is about 16 feet, -and the length at the apse is about 36 feet 6 inches. It is internally a -very picturesque and interesting structure, but it has been badly -treated at the time of the rebuilding of the choir. The wonder is that -it escaped from being rebuilt, like the rest of the church. It is at -present proposed to restore the building by removing the lath and -plaster from the walls, and laying the floor at the original level, and -also to fill the windows with stained glass. We may express the hope -that before this is done the distressing effects of the stained glass in -the crypt of Glasgow Cathedral will be duly considered. - -[Illustration: FIG. 388.--St. Nicholas’ Church. Details of Piers of -Crossing.] - -The roof is groined throughout, the three compartments in the length -(Fig. 392) being separated by pointed arches, which spring from moulded -caps on octagonal responds. The ribs are the same in all the -compartments, except that in the centre and north a length of the ridge -rib is omitted (see Plan). The opening into the apse has a stunted - -[Illustration: FIG. 389.--St. Nicholas’ Church. North Transept.] - -round arch (Fig. 393), and is a prominent example of the love of the -Scottish builders for this form of arch all through the Gothic period. -This is the only place in the crypt where the width is sufficient to -allow - -[Illustration: FIG. 390.--St. Nicholas’ Church. Clerestory Window.] - -of such an arch reaching the roof without the necessity of undue gabling -above the arch, and it further has the effect of giving a dignity and -effect of separation to the apse which it would not have possessed with -a pointed arch. Each compartment of the apse has a central boss, two of -these are shown (Fig. 394). All the intermediate ribs spring from -corbels at a lower level than the caps of the responds (Fig. 395), from -which the separating arches spring, and the long diagonals of the centre -compartment cut through these caps and rest on the notch formed in the -centre of the wide diagonal respond at the opening to the apse (see Fig. -392). - -There is a considerable amount of carved woodwork--bench ends and backs -of seats--in the crypt, some of the fifteenth or sixteenth century (Fig. -396), and some of a later period. These are probably part of the work -done by John Ferdour, “wricht,” who, in 1507, contracted to make -twenty-four stalls and other furniture “substanciusly and honourable as -he may,” as they are begun, “and bettir gif he can” (p. 77). - -The height from the present floor, which is about 18 inches above the -original level, is 13 feet 4 inches to the centre rib and 7 feet to the -top of the respond caps. The walls, being plastered, hide the wall ribs -and any of the usual architectural features, if any such exist. - -The choir so recently taken down superseded an older one. - -[Illustration: FIG. 391.--Tablet in South Transept.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 392.--St. Nicholas’ Church. Crypt, looking -South-East.] - -It does not appear to be quite certain when the latter was begun, but -throughout the Council Register there are numerous references to the -“kyrk werk,” and to the “reparacion of the perise kirk of Sanct -Nicolace.” These references begin in 1442 and continue for about a -century. In 1474 there is a contract for delivering six score stones of -lead to “Schir Andro - -[Illustration: FIG. 393.--St. Nicholas’ Church. Crypt, looking -North-West.] - -Wricht, maister of the kirk wark” (p. 32), and three years later -“Alexander of Charmyr,” alderman, was appointed “vpper and principale -maister of wark of the bigeing of Sanct Nicholace qveyr for twa yeris to -cum” (p. 33). Sir Andrew was probably an ecclesiastic, and he and -Chalmers appear to have been the paymasters. - -[Illustration: FIG. 394.--St. Nicholas’ Church. Bosses in Crypt.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 395.--Plan of Piers in Crypt, with Caps and Ribs.] - -In 1483 David Menzis, elder, was master of the kirk work, and purchased -a boat load of lime for the building, and in the following year “Maistre -Johne Gray, mason,” was appointed “to the bigging of Sanct Nicolace -wark.” He engaged to work in his own person, and to superintend the -masons and other workmen. He was “to be lele and trew to the said wark -for al the dais of his life, unto the completing and ending of the same” -(p. 41). It would appear that there were but few skilled workmen -employed in the building, as only some five or six men are mentioned by -name in the register. They are frequently referred to, and appear to -have been bound to remain at the building during the pleasure of the -Council. In the same year that Gray was appointed the feeing of a single -mason was a matter of so much importance as to occupy a whole sitting of -the Town Council and “diuerse of the communite” (p. 41), and in the year -following (1493) three masons were sent to Cowie (a few miles south from -Aberdeen) to work there for a year quarrying stones for the church. The -shifts and expedients to find funds for the building run through all the -deliberations of the Council. In 1495 about fifty - -[Illustration: FIG. 396.--St. Nicholas’ Church. Carved Bench End.] - -citizens advanced the money “to pay Johne Ferdour for the making of the -roff and tymmir of the queyr” (p. 56), and in 1500 a contribution of -“salmond and money” was made for lead for the church. This offering was -not sufficient, and we find other negotiations had to be gone into to -raise funds, and it was not till 1510 that they were able to order the -master of the kirk work, George Bisset (a new master), to “cause the -plumbar to pass and ende his werk, and theik the body of thar kirk with -leide” (p. 80), and at last, in 1513, a gilded “weddercok” is set up on -“Sanct Nicholace stepill.” - - -COLDINGHAM PRIORY, BERWICKSHIRE. - -The picturesque village of Coldingham, with the remains of its ancient -priory, lies in a small valley about 3½ miles eastward from Reston -Railway Station, and within a mile of the sea. - -The great precipice of St. Abb’s Head, overlooking the German Ocean, is -only a few miles off. It is believed that Ebba, daughter of the -Northumbrian King Ethelfrid, and sister of King Oswy, in the bright days -of that kingdom, about the middle of the seventh century, founded the -monastery of _Urbs Coludi_, or Coldingham. There Ethelrida, Queen of -Egfrid, took the veil, and she afterwards founded the church and -monastery of Ely, of which she became abbess.[194] - -The Convent of Coldingham was several times sacked by the Danes, and -after its destruction by them in 870, it remained desolate till it was -restored in 1098 for a colony of Benedictines. - -[Illustration: FIG. 397.--Coldingham Priory. Plan.] - -The foundations of an early church with an eastern apse were found in -excavations made in 1854. The outlines of this early church, as shown on -a plan prepared by Mr. Hunter, in 1858, for his history of the priory, -are drawn in outline on Fig. 397. These were, doubtless, the remains of -the church erected in 1089. It had the circular apse of the early Norman -churches. - -The Priory of Coldingham was refounded at the above date by Edgar, son -of Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret. His charter is still preserved at -Durham. The church was dedicated to St. Cuthbert and St. Ebba, and -granted by Edgar to St. Cuthbert’s Canons Regular of Durham, in -acknowledgment of assistance he had received from England. It was -colonised by Benedictine monks, sent to it by the abbot of Durham. - -The priory thus remained long subordinate to the English Church, -although upon Scottish soil. The Canons of Durham controlled it, and -drew its revenues till 1504, when it was annexed to the Scottish Crown. -In 1509, the priory was at length detached from Durham, and placed under -the rule of the Abbey of Dunfermline, in which position it remained till -the Reformation. - -In the unsettled period of Robert III., and the regency of the Duke of -Albany, the monks found it desirable to place the convent and its -revenues under the protection of Archibald, Earl of Douglas, who -appointed the Laird of Home as his under-keeper, and the Homes continued -to be the bailiffs of the priory till the Reformation, when it fell -entirely into their hands. - -In order to provide support for the Chapel-Royal in Stirling, which -James III. had founded, he attempted to suppress the Priory of -Coldingham and annex its revenues, and this was approved by the -Parliament of 1485. However, the proposal was opposed most strenuously -by the Homes and Hepburns, and tended to bring about the rebellion by -which King James lost his life.[195] - -The buildings of the convent are said to have suffered severely from -fire on three different occasions--viz., in 1216, in 1430, and in 1544. -The structure was also greatly damaged by Cromwell, and since his time -has served as a convenient quarry to the villagers. The result of the -dilapidations thus caused has been that but little of the monastery now -remains. The church is said to have consisted (see Plan) of nave and -choir, each 90 feet by 25 feet, and transept, 41 feet by 34 feet. At the -north-west angle of the latter rose a massive square tower 90 feet in -height. - -Of these once extensive structures there now only remain the north and -east walls of the choir, and some fragments of the south transept. The -nave has been entirely removed, and the great tower fell rather more -than a century ago. In 1662, the west and south walls of the choir were - -[Illustration: FIG. 398.--Coldingham Priory. View from North-East.] - -rebuilt to render that portion of the edifice suitable for a place of -worship, and in 1854-55 the choir was restored, its west and south walls -being again partly rebuilt, a south porch added, and the corner turrets -carried up to their present height. The whitewash was also removed from -the beautiful work of the interior. - -[Illustration: FIG. 399.--Coldingham Priory. North and East Sides of -Interior.] - -The church thus restored is 84 feet in length by 23 feet in width -internally, and comprises the ancient north and east walls of the priory -choir. The choir never had aisles, the walls having evidently been -designed to form the exterior of the building. They are two stories in -height (Fig. 398), the ground floor consisting of a series of double -round arches, inserted in the intervals between flat Norman-like -buttresses. The arches are carved with chevron ornaments, and they -spring from slender shafts, each having a square abacus and refined -cushion cap. The bases rest on flat corbels, round which a string course -breaks. All this Norman-like work is exceedingly fine, and very unlike -genuine Norman design. - -[Illustration: FIG. 400.--Coldingham Priory. Caps of Lower Arcade.] - -Its refined character shows that it is of transition style. On the upper -story the spaces between the buttresses contain in each a single lancet -window, with a nook shaft on each side, and bold first pointed mouldings -in two orders in the arches. The shafts have strongly marked early -first pointed features in the foliaged caps, with square abaci, central -band, and beaded base resting on a string course stepped up to receive -it. - -The above design extends round the east end, and the whole of the north -side, except the two bays at the west end of the latter, where the -design is interrupted so as to admit of a porch which seems formerly to -have existed there, but is now removed. The angle turrets have a nook -shaft at each projecting corner like Norman work. They have now been -restored on top with modern masonry. - -The design of the interior of the north and east walls (Fig. 399) is -very beautiful. It is carried out, like the exterior, in two stories. -The lower story consists of a continuous pointed arcade, placed close to -the wall, with single detached shafts and bold first pointed arch -mouldings. The bases of the shafts rest on a stone bench 1 foot 6 inches -high, and the caps are varied with rich transition and first pointed -carving (Fig. 400). Curious trefoil and vesica openings are inserted in -the spandrils. (Fig. 403.) - -[Illustration: FIG. 401.--Coldingham Priory. Plan of Upper Gallery.] - -The upper story consists of a detached arcade, having a passage behind -it in the thickness of the wall (Fig. 401). The arcade comprises an -alternation of high and low pointed arches, two of the latter occurring -between every two of the former. The shafts are alternately cinquefoil -and double in section, as shown in the geometrical drawing (Fig. 402). -All these details are prominently first pointed in style, the caps being -elaborately carved with foliage of that period, and the mouldings being -bold and distinct (Fig. 403). The little bits of foliage introduced at -the points of the arches and ends of the labels and strings are also -characteristic of early first pointed work. - -That the design is late transition or very early pointed work is -apparent from all the details. The lower story of the exterior having -refined Norman ornaments, and the early date of the first pointed work -being emphasised by the whole of the abaci of the caps being square in -form, possibly this portion of the edifice may be due to restorations -executed after the fire of 1216. - -The portions of the south transept still left are very fragmentary, and -there are now no traces of a north transept, although in Mr. Hunter’s -plan some indications of such a structure are shown. At the north-west -angle of the south transept there is an arch, which has been rebuilt, -being partly made up of old fragments, but the lower part seems to be -ancient. The lower portions of two piers on the east side of the -transept still survive (Fig. 404), and exhibit good mouldings. These -seem to have formed the piers between the transept and an eastern aisle. -When - -[Illustration: FIG. 402.--Coldingham Priory. Elevation of part of West -Side.] - -Grose’s views were drawn in 1789, one of the pier arches still stood, -and a corresponding arch of the north transept is also shown as then -existing. Part of the west and south walls of the transept, with the -shafts (or at least the bases of the shafts) of an arcade, similar to -that of the choir, is also still preserved. This building shows a -doorway in the south-west angle. - -Lying at a distance of 76 feet south from the church, and at a somewhat -lower level, are the walls of a great hall (see Fig. 397). The wall, -which runs east and west, is fully 100 feet in length, and has attached -to it pilasters of segmental form, measuring 1 foot 10 inches across, at - -[Illustration: FIG. 403.--Coldingham Priory. Interior of North-East -Angle.] - -intervals of about 12 feet. From excavations recently made, the width of -this building has been ascertained to be 28 feet. The south wall has -been 5 feet in thickness, and seems to have been buttressed. - -There are three doorways in the north wall, with steps leading down into -the building. Part of the east wall also remains, in which is a recess 4 -feet 6 inches wide, with splayed jambs, and having an ambry in the back -of it. The structure has been vaulted, as is apparent from the remains -of ribs and corbels. Part of it may have been the refectory. Unless -steps are taken shortly to preserve this building, it will probably very -soon disappear. - -There seem to have been buildings along the east, extending from this -hall to the church. These may have formed the eastern side of a court or -cloister, of which the hall formed the southern side and the church the -north side. - -[Illustration: FIG. 404.--Pier in South Transept.] - -The east wall of the cloister, which partly remains, has traces of an -old doorway (see Plan) about 4 feet 6 inches wide, now built up. It was -secured by a sliding bar, the channel for which is still in existence. -This doorway is shown in Cardonnell’s _Picturesque Antiquities of -Scotland_ as a round arched door. Above it is shown a pointed arched -window, and at about 20 feet to the south a great pointed archway, not -unlike the arching of the “Pends” at Arbroath. This great archway is -also shown by Grose, but the above-mentioned doorway with the sliding -bar is not seen in Grose’s view owing to a wall hiding it from his point -of view; however, he shows the pointed arched window above. Both the -above authors indicate that a wall ran eastward at right angles. - -There are several grave-slabs at Coldingham, of which four are -illustrated. Three of these are small in size, and the fourth is -considerably larger. That shown in Fig. 405 has bevelled edges, with a -foliaged cross containing thirteenth century carving. At the top of the -cross there is a wasted bust, and at the foot there are Calvary steps. -The slab measures 2 feet 2 inches high by 11½ inches wide at the top, -tapering to 8 inches at foot. The other three crosses are apparently of -a later date. - -Figs. 406 and 407 are, like Fig. 405, of small size, the first measuring -32 inches high by 10⅜ inches at the top of the slab, and tapering to 8⅛ -inches at the base, and the latter 27 inches high by 10 inches without -taper. - -Fig. 406 is of an elaborate and peculiar design. On the flat slab a -shallow bead with a circular head encloses the design. This consists of -two stars at the top, and then of three upright flat-beaded figures -about 6 inches high, with corded lines across them; then a Greek cross, -a star, and, finally, a double row of three stars. The arrangement of -the stars somewhat resembles the similar features at the chancel arch of -Legerwood, Berwickshire. The small slab (Fig. 407), which may be - -[Illustration: FIG. 405.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 406. - -FIG. 407. - -FIG. 408. - -Coldingham Priory. Grave Slabs.] - -supposed to have covered the grave of a child, appears also to have had -an incised sword. - -Fig. 408 is 5 feet 2 inches by 16½ inches at the head, tapering to 14 -inches at the base, and has bevelled edges, with a flat bead at the -sides only. It bears the incised outline of a sword, with a large carved -knob for the pommel. - -[Illustration: FIG. 409.--Cushion Capital.] - -There are several stones at Coldingham preserved from an earlier church -than the existing one. Fig. 409 represents one of these, being a Norman -cushion capital from a respond. The fragment is 14¾ inches wide by 11 -inches high. - - -DRYBURGH ABBEY, BERWICKSHIRE. - -Situated on the north bank of the Tweed (and, consequently, in -Berwickshire), this once important abbey belonged to the series of -monastic establishments founded in the twelfth century in the valley of -the Tweed. It occupies a beautiful position amongst fine woods on an -elevated peninsula, surrounded on three sides by a loop of the river -Tweed, about five miles below Melrose. - -It is said that a religious establishment existed here under the -presidency of St. Modan, in the eighth century, but the evidence is -scanty. - -The monastery, of which the fragmentary remains are still visible, was -founded, in 1150, by Hugh de Morville, Constable of Scotland, and -received a charter from David I. The canons introduced into it were of -the Premonstratensian order, from Alnwick, and, from their dress, were -called White Friars. - -A large part of the domestic buildings seems to have been erected within -fifty or sixty years of the date of the foundation, as they are built in -the transition style of the beginning of the thirteenth century. The -church appears to have been in progress during the thirteenth century, -as in 1242 the Bishop of St. Andrews, owing to the debts incurred in -building the monastery, and other expenses, gave the canons permission -to enjoy the revenues of the churches under their patronage--one of -their number performing the office of vicar in each parish. - -The canons took the oath of fidelity to Edward I. in 1296, upon which -their property was restored to them. Their possessions were widely -spread, and extended into several counties, as appears from letters -addressed by Edward regarding them to the sheriffs in the counties of -Fife, Berwick, Roxburgh, and Edinburgh. - -Amongst the distinguished men connected with the abbey was Ralph Strode, -a friend of Geoffrey Chaucer and John Wiclif. He devoted himself - -[Illustration: FIG. 410.--Dryburgh Abbey. Plan.] - -to philosophic studies, and was the author of several works. In the -fifteenth and sixteenth centuries Andrew Forman was superior of -Dryburgh, a man much occupied with affairs of Church and State under -James IV. and V. He was appointed, in 1501, to the Bishopric of Moray, -and held at the same time the priories of Coldingham and Pittenweem, and -the Commendatorship of Dryburgh. Afterwards he became Archbishop of -Brouges, and finally Archbishop of St. Andrews. - -Lying, as the abbey did, in the path of the invaders from the South, it -received many unfriendly visits, and suffered much at the hands of - -[Illustration: FIG. 411.--Dryburgh Abbey. East Side of Monastic -Buildings.] - -the English. In 1322 the monastery received a destructive visit from -Edward II. on his return from an unsuccessful invasion of Scotland. His -army camped in the grounds of the abbey, and next morning set it on -fire, when great damage was done. Large contributions were received from -Robert I. for the repairs of the damage thus caused. - -The buildings were again destroyed, in 1385, by Richard II. on his -retreat from Scotland, on which occasion he likewise burnt the abbeys of -Melrose and Newbotle. In 1544 the edifice once more suffered at the -hands of Lord Eure, when the fittings were carried off. - -The abbacy was held _in commendam_ from the beginning of the sixteenth -century, and, in 1587, it was annexed to the Crown. Finally, it was -erected into a temporal barony, with the title of Lord Cardross, in -favour of the Earl of Mar, from whom it has passed, by purchase, through -the hands of several proprietors.[196] - -The monastery (Fig. 410) has consisted of the usual buildings -surrounding the cloister, having the church on the north side, standing -about ten steps above the level of the cloister garth. The sacristy, -chapter house, fratery, and other apartments stretch from the transept -southwards along the east side; and above these, on the upper floor, -were the dormitories, entering by an open staircase from the south -transept, in a similar manner to the dormitories at Pluscardine, -Melrose, &c. Along the south side of the cloisters lay the refectory, -which, owing to the slope of the ground, was raised on a basement floor -of vaulted cellars. On the west side of the cloister garth there are now -only a few vaulted cellars. A small stream runs along on the south-west -side of the monastic buildings, and beyond the stream are the remains of -what seems to have been a detached chapel. - -The oldest portions of the structure are those forming the eastern range -(Fig. 411), which, from their style of architecture, are evidently of -transition date, or about the beginning of the thirteenth century. The -sacristy is 28 feet long by 13 feet wide. It has a stone bench round the -walls and three steps in the floor. There is a door from the transept -and an outer semicircular-headed doorway of transition character from -the cloister (Fig. 412.) Access is also obtained by a small door in the -north side to a wheel-stair leading to the upper floors, and visible as -a projecting turret at the south-east angle of the transept (see Fig. -412). - -The east window of the sacristy is remarkable, having two round-headed -windows, surmounted by a visica-formed aperture (see Fig. 411). - -The sacristy has a piscina in the south wall near the east end. - -The apartment next the sacristy is 28 feet long by 11 feet wide. It has -now been appropriated as a mausoleum, but may have originally been a -parlour. There is an ambry in the south wall near the east end. The -doorway is semicircular, and of Norman character (see Fig. 412). - -The east window is plain, and consists of two round-headed openings -enclosed in a large semicircle (see Fig. 411). The above two apartments -are on the level of the cloisters; but the floor of the chapter house, -which is next in order, is several feet below the level of the cloister -walk. - -The ordinary central doorway and side windows opening from the cloister -(see Fig. 412) are, however, placed in their usual position on the level -of the cloister walk. The door is thus some five feet above the floor, -and if the doorway was used for access to the chapter house, it must -have been provided with a stair down, of which there is now no trace. -The - -[Illustration: FIG. 412.--Dryburgh Abbey. Transept and East Side of -Cloisters.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 413.--Dryburgh Abbey. Doorway of Chapter House.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 414.--Dryburgh Abbey. Interior of Chapter House.] - -side openings were unglazed, and were used for seeing and listening to -what was proceeding in the chapter house below. - -The doorway (Fig. 413) is large and deeply recessed, having three shafts -on the sloping ingoing, and plain mouldings above in the round arch, -divided into several orders. The jambs and arch over them are enriched -with a bold dog-tooth moulding. The outer arches of the windows on each -side of the doorway are plain semicircles, filled in with two pointed -lights, having a central shaft. - -[Illustration: FIG. 415.--Dryburgh Abbey. Carved Figure in Chapter -House.] - -The chapter house is 48 feet in length by 23 feet in width, and retains -its round barrel vault (Fig. 414), which is about 20 feet in height. It -has three pointed windows in the east end (see Fig. 411) and two similar -windows in the side walls, where the chapter house projects beyond the -general line of the buildings. In the interior a round arched arcade -runs along the east side, supported on single shafts, and there are -traces of a similar arcade having run round the side walls. There is an -entrance doorway in the south wall, which is probably not original, and -the approach to it has been modernised. The east gable wall over the -chapter house still exists (see Fig. 411.) It has simple flat -buttresses of a Norman type at the angles and between the windows, but -the pointed arches indicate transition work. - -Amongst the fragments of carved work preserved in the chapter house is -that shown in Fig. 415. It represents the pascal lamb slain, - -[Illustration: FIG. 416.--Dryburgh Abbey. South-West Angle of -Cloisters.] - -and is surrounded by a wreath of foliage, above which are the letters I -H S. The vine leaves flowing from the lamb may represent the branches -springing from the true vine. - -To the south of the chapter house is a large apartment, 50 feet in -length by 23 feet wide. It has been vaulted at a late period, and the -vaulting shafts still remain attached to the east, west, and south -walls. Their details are of the third pointed period. There is a -fireplace in the centre of the west wall, and an outer doorway at the -south end of the same wall. The apartment was lighted by three plain -round arched windows in the east wall, one of which has had tracery -inserted in after times. At the north-west angle, opening from the level -of the cloister, there is a round-headed doorway, and traces of a -staircase, which doubtless served as the day access to the dormitory. -The large apartment just described was probably the fratery or monks’ -day room. This is the more likely from its having a fireplace, where the -monks might warm themselves - -[Illustration: FIG. 417.--Dryburgh Abbey. Arms of John Stewart, 1555.] - -in cold weather. At the south-east angle of the room, and in the -thickness of the wall, a narrow staircase leads up to where the -dormitories were situated. South of the fratery is the slype or passage -10 feet in width, with arched openings to the east and west. It has also -a doorway to the fratery, and another to the apartment on the south -side. The latter now only exists in part, the south end of the range -having been destroyed. - -The range of buildings above described still retains its eastern wall to -the full height of two stories (see Fig. 411), the upper story being, -doubtless, the dormitory. The wall is all built in a simple early style, -with flat buttresses between the windows, and the latter are plain -round-headed openings, with a single recessed order. The hood mould is -in some cases carved with a notch ornament. - -On the south side of the cloister, where the refectory once stood, there - -[Illustration: FIG. 418.--Dryburgh Abbey. West End of Nave--Interior.] - -are now only the ruins of the vaulted basement on which it stood. At the -east end of this range there is a doorway from the cloister giving -access to a staircase, which led down to the lower level of the fratery, -&c. The remainder of the south side was probably all occupied by the -refectory, - -[Illustration: FIG. 419.--Dryburgh Abbey. Western Doorway.] - -which would thus be about 77 feet in length by 27 feet in width. The -west wall is almost all that survives. It is ivy clad, and contains a -picturesque circular window, with radiating tracery (Fig. 416). -Adjoining - -[Illustration: FIG. 420.--Dryburgh Abbey. North and South Ends of -Transept.] - -this wall in the south-west angle of the cloister there is an arched -recess in the west wall, apparently intended for a tomb and monument; -but it is empty. Over the doorway in this angle is a large shield (Fig. -417), - -[Illustration: FIG. 421.--Dryburgh Abbey. North Transept and Choir.] - -which contains the arms of John Stewart, who was commendator in 1555. On -the shield are the initials “J. S.,” with the crozier in the centre. He -was brother of the Earl of Lennox, and uncle to Lord Darnley, who -married Queen Mary. The arms are those of the Stewarts of Lennox. - -The cloister occupies a space of 93 feet by 91 feet. It has been -surrounded by a vaulted walk, which has entirely disappeared. It is -evident that the cloister walk was at least partly vaulted from the -small remains of the springing of the vaults which are visible in the -eastern wall on each side of the doorway to the chapter house (see Fig. -413). From the way in which these springings die away to nothing against -the wall, without corbel or support of any kind, it is apparent that the -vaulting must have been of a late date. The corbels which supported the -top of the wooden roof over the vaulting are also still visible in the -east wall. - -The south wall of the nave of the church extends along the north side of -the cloister. At the north-east angle is the doorway which led from the -cloister into the nave. It is a handsome specimen of the transition -style, having a circular arched head deeply recessed in four or five -orders, springing from three shafts, and two moulded members in the -jambs. It is noteworthy regarding this doorway that the two inner orders -of the jambs and arch had been removed and erected in private grounds, -and, after many years’ absence, were restored to their original position -only a short time ago. - -The nave of the church is entered through this handsome doorway by ten -steps up from the cloister. It presents a scene of terrible destruction. -All the piers of the nave are demolished, and only slight traces of the -north wall remain; of the south wall, more is preserved. The west end -wall (Fig. 418), however, has to some extent escaped destruction, and -shows by the responds attached to it the form of the nave piers, with -their caps and bases. The position of the piers along the nave is now -roughly indicated by a collection of fragments arranged, as nearly as -possible, in the original position and form. The mouldings indicate a -late date, and were, doubtless, restorations; but the responds, which -were not so liable to destruction, are of first pointed date. The -responds which form part of the west wall show that there was a central -nave 28 feet wide and side aisles, each about 13 feet 6 inches wide, -making a total width of 55 feet. There have been side chapels in the -nave, apparently divided by walls, some portions of which remain, with -ambries in the chapels. - -The western doorway (Fig. 419) has a round arched head, but its details -show that it is of late design. This part of the edifice has apparently -been restored in the fifteenth century, after the destruction of the -abbey by Richard II. in the end of the fourteenth century. - -The transept has a slight projection to the north and south. It is 80 -feet in length internally from north to south and 37 feet in width, -including an eastern aisle. - -This part of the building and all to the east of it are evidently of - -[Illustration: FIG. 422.--Dryburgh Abbey. Choir-Aisle and North -Transept.] - -thirteenth century work, but, unfortunately, only a few detached -portions remain. These include (see Fig. 412) the very picturesque gable -of the south transept, with its large window filled with simple pointed -tracery, rising in steps above the roof of the dormitory (Fig. 420). The -arch through which the stair to the dormitory passed is visible in this -wall. (See Fig. 420.) - -To the east of the transept is a choir of two bays, with aisles, beyond -which is an aisleless presbytery, 42 feet long by 24 feet wide, now -almost reduced to foundations. The buttresses and base course are -traceable, and a doorway in the north-east angle, which probably led to -a small staircase. The portion of the structure still preserved to the -north is a part of the north transept wall, with the eastern aisle of -the transept and the two north bays of the choir (Fig. 421). - -These portions are of very beautiful design, both internally and -externally. The exterior (Fig. 422) is of very simple, but elegant, -first pointed work, while the interior shows symptoms of somewhat more -advanced design. The angle pier of the crossing and the piers of the -choir consist of round shafts with fillets, divided by square angles. -These are surmounted by moulded caps, with round abacus and first -pointed mouldings. From these spring the pier arches, composed of three -orders of plain splays, with hood moulding. Over the main arches is a -low triforium marked by string courses above and below. It has flat -arched openings filled in with circles having six cusps. - -The clerestory is of beautiful design. Each bay contains an arcade of -three arches, the central one, which is opposite the window, being -larger than the side arches. The arches are supported on detached piers, -behind which runs a gallery. These piers each consist of two shafts, -with central fillet. They have first pointed round caps, over which a -round block receives the arch mouldings as they descend. - -A small portion of the north end of the transept adjoins the above, -which shows that the structure has been carried up in two stories of -richly moulded windows (see Fig. 420), all in the same style as the -adjoining portion of the choir. The remaining portion of the aisle is -vaulted with moulded ribs springing from responds and corbels -corresponding in style with the choir. - -The whole of this part of the church is of very fine design and -workmanship, but it is, unfortunately, a mere fragment. Additional -interest attaches to it from its forming the last resting-place of Sir -Walter Scott and members of his family. - - -AIRTH CHURCH.[197] - -This ruined church adjoins the old Castle of Airth, which lies half a -mile from the Forth and eight miles south-east of Stirling. The church -is in part a building of considerable antiquity, dating from the -transition period about the end of the twelfth or the beginning of the -thirteenth century, but it has undergone many alterations, and only a -small part of the early structure remains. The building as it now stands -(Fig. 423) consists of a - -[Illustration: FIG. 423.--Airth Church. Plan.] - -nave and chancel, having a south wing or aisle, containing the Airth -vault, and forming a transept, with a tower at the re-entering angle of -the Airth aisle, and with indications of an aisle on the north side of -the choir. There are also two burial vaults attached to the building, -one on the north side and the other at the south-west angle, called -respectively the Bruce and Elphinstone aisles. The internal length of -the church is 79 feet 3 inches by about 19 feet 9 inches in breadth. The -most ancient part of the church (Fig. 424) is on the north side of the -nave, and consists of a bay of what has been a nave arcade, opening into -a north aisle. One pillar and respond (tinted black on the Plan), with -the connecting round arch, still - -[Illustration: FIG. 424.--Airth Church. North Arcade.] - -stand. The original arcade probably consisted of three bays extending to -near the west gable, where there are indications, at the ground level, -of what appears to have been the western respond. Whether there was -originally a south arcade or not cannot now be determined, as this part -has been entirely rebuilt, and all traces of the north and south aisles -of the nave, if there was a south aisle, have perished. The existing -north bay is 11 feet 3 inches wide, and the pillar, which is circular, -is about 17 inches in diameter. It has a capital, carved with simple -foliage (Fig. 425), and has a square abacus. The arch has a double set -of plain arch stones, with plain soffit. - -The few details which survive are extremely interesting, and show this -to have been a building of some importance. Behind the above bay now -stands the burial aisle of the Bruces of Powfoulis. It bears over the -doorway the initials of Sir James Bruce and his wife, Dame Margaret -Rollox, of Duncrub, and on another part the date 1614. It seems probable -that this, as well as the other aisles shown on Plan, contained, on the -upper floor, the family seats or galleries of the respective houses -whose arms they bear, and a burial vault beneath. - -[Illustration: FIG. 425.--Airth Church. Cap of Pillar.] - -Judging from the few details left, the Airth aisle is a structure of the -fifteenth century. It measures about 24 feet 3 inches long by 13 feet 3 -inches wide, and has contained a large traceried south window, which is -now destroyed, and brought to the condition shown in Fig. 426. The -external hood moulding of the window remains with nicely carved -terminations (Fig. 427). Beneath this window is seen the top of an -arched tomb, in which probably the recumbent effigy (Fig. 428) once lay. -There is a small square-headed window in the east wall, divided by a -mullion; but, as appears from its mouldings, it is an insertion of -perhaps the seventeenth century. Adjoining this is the usual ambry. -Beneath this aisle is the burial vault (indicated by dotted lines on the -Plan), which is reached by the stair shown. On the outside of the east -wall there is a niche for a statue (Fig. 429). It has the usual canopy -and bracket so frequent on the churches of this late period. The bracket -(Fig. 430) contains the Bruce arms--viz., the chief and saltier; the -chief being charged with two incised cinquefoils, which may point to an -alliance with the Livingstone family. The same arms, but without the -cinquefoils, - -[Illustration: FIG. 426.--Airth Church. The Airth Aisle, looking South.] - -appear beneath each of the first crow steps of the gable. This aisle was -probably erected by Alexander Bruce of Stenhous and first of Airth (1452 -to 1483), who was a son of Sir Robert Bruce of Clackmannan,[198] and is -stated to have married (first) Janet, daughter of the first Lord -Livingstone, by whom he had no issue. It was probably “our Ladie Aisle, -founded and situated on the south side of the Kirk of Airth,” the -chaplainrie of which was presented by Sir Alexander Bruce of - -[Illustration: FIG. 427.--Airth Church. Terminations.] - -Airth, the patron, to Robert Bruce, younger, his son, on 30th October -1572. - -[Illustration: FIG. 428.--Airth Church. Effigy.] - -The effigy (see Fig. 428), which, as already stated, probably occupied -the tomb in the Airth aisle, lies at present in a mutilated state in the - -[Illustration: FIG. 429.--Niche for Statue.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 430.--Bracket.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 431.--Stone in Airth Castle.] - -eastern portion of the church. There is no certainty whom the recumbent -figure represents, but it is in all likelihood an effigy of one of the -ladies of either the family of Erth or of the Bruces of Airth. It has -been stated that another effigy lies beside the one referred to, but we -understand from a person who has examined the ground that nothing of the -kind is to be found. This effigy, which is 6 feet 3 inches long by 1 -foot 10 inches in breadth, is greatly mutilated; but the coverlet -extending from the waist downwards is well preserved, and is very finely -carved, and, so far as we know, is unique amongst Scottish figures. - -In Airth Castle is preserved the stone shown in Fig. 431. It appears to -have been taken from the church and to have formed a part of a piscina -or ambry. The fragment measures about 2 feet high, with an opening about -12½ inches wide. It doubtless belonged to the Airth aisle. - -[Illustration: FIG. 432.--Airth Church. Stone in South Gable of -Elphinstone Aisle.] - -The Elphinstone aisle, which is separated from the nave by a -semicircular arch, presents no architectural features of note; but on -the exterior of the gable towards the south there is a well-preserved -stone (Fig. 432), with shield bearing the Elphinstone arms, parted per -pale with those of Livingstone and Calendar quarterly, with the motto -“Cavis Cavis” (Caus Caus), the date 1593, and at either side the letters -M A ♢ E and I ♢ L ME, the initials of Alexander, fourth Lord -Elphinstone, and his wife Jane, eldest daughter of William, sixth Lord -Livingstone. - -The tower contains, on the lintel of the doorway, the inscription I V L -Y + THE + 15 + 1647, doubtless the date of its erection. The other parts -of the church appear to be of late seventeenth century work, and need -not be further referred to. - - -LASSWADE CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN. - -Lasswade is a village on the south bank of the river Esk, about six -miles south from Edinburgh. The old Parish Church stood, till 1866, in -the ancient churchyard, on a height above the south side of the river. -“It became a mensal church of the Bishopric of St. Andrews in the -twelfth century, forming a prebend of St. Salvator’s Church; but was -annexed to the Collegiate Church of Restalrig, in the reign of King -James III.”[199] - -[Illustration: FIG. 433.--Lasswade Church. Plan.] - -The old structure having become unsuitable, a new church was erected in -1793, and the old building was allowed to fall into ruins. Some -portions, however, were preserved, and converted into mausoleums. In one -of these aisles lie the remains of Henry Dundas, first Lord Melville; in -another is buried the poet Drummond of Hawthornden. - -The old church (Fig. 433) consisted of a single oblong chamber 20 feet -in width, with a tower 16 feet square at the west end. The aisles, or - -[Illustration: FIG. 434.--Lasswade Church. East, West, and North -Elevations.] - -mausoleums, above referred to, are projected from the north side. The -westmost is roofed with stone slabs, and has a picturesque appearance. - -The tower and a portion of the church were of considerable age, and may -be classed as Transition work. In 1866 the tower had become much crushed -and dangerous. While steps were being taken by the heritors - -[Illustration: FIG. 435.--Lasswade Church. South Elevation.] - -to have it strengthened the tower fell. The accompanying drawings were -made before that event. - -The tower (Fig. 434) was three stories in height, besides the gables of -the saddle roof which crowned it. The entrance to the tower was from the -inside of the church by a round-headed doorway (see East Elevation), -with simple impost and plain arch with hood moulding. Above this was a -large round-arched opening into the roof of the church. The two lower -stories had narrow pointed windows. The top story had double-pointed -lights, with central mullion in each face. This story had an enriched -cornice, above which rose the east and west gables, each with a small -round-headed window. A door had been knocked into the tower on the south -side (Fig. 435), which, doubtless, helped to weaken it. - -In a portion of the south wall of the church, near the tower, there was -preserved an original doorway (see Fig. 435) about 5 feet 6 inches wide. -It resembled that to the tower in design, having plain jambs, with a -string course forming the imposts, and a plain round arch above, -enclosed with a hood moulding. All the above features seem to point to -the structure being one of the first half of the thirteenth century. - -Annexed is a sketch of the effigy of a knight in armour (Fig. 436), -which is lying in the churchyard. There is no record of the knight’s -name. - -[Illustration: FIG. 436.--Effigy in Churchyard.] - - -BATHGATE CHURCH, LINLITHGOWSHIRE. - -About one mile east from the town of Bathgate stands the old ruined -church, surrounded by an ancient burial-ground. It is a long, narrow, - -[Illustration: FIG. 437.--Bathgate Church. Plan.] - -ivy-covered building (Fig. 437), measuring internally about 91 feet 2 -inches from east to west by 19 feet 5 inches from north to south, with -walls from 3 to 4 feet in thickness. The doorway, which was probably -round arched, is almost the only feature of its architecture left. The -opening is unusually wide, showing 7 feet of daylight (see Fig. 437), -and, judging from its details, the church belonged to the transitional -period. The doorway was decorated with shafts placed in square nooks or -recesses, with carved capitals having the square abacus, a certain -feature of early work. (Fig. 438.) Both inside and outside the walls are -so entirely covered either with ivy or tombstones that almost no part of -the masonry can be seen; only one small window on the north side, about -six inches wide, being partly visible. - -[Illustration: FIG. 438.--Bathgate Church. Caps.] - -The grave slab (Fig. 439) has lately been fixed into the south wall. -Some time ago it was lying on the floor. It measures 6 feet 2 inches -long by 2 feet 3 inches wide, and bears a beautifully lettered -inscription to the memory of Andreas Crichton. In the centre of the slab -there is a cross, with the Calvary steps, and beneath the cross limb a -shield with the Crichton arms (a lion rampant), and on the dexter side a -long sword. - -In the Exchequer Rolls for the year 1497, Andrew Crichton of Drumcorse -(the name of the estate adjoining the church on the north) first comes -into view. On the 1st May 1502, Crichton entered office as the -Chamberlain of the Lordship of Linlithgowshire. He presents his accounts -yearly, his last being rendered from July 1513 to July 1514, when he -presumably died. His monumental slab was, doubtless, carved shortly -after that date. - -There is a very beautiful recumbent statue (Fig. 440) lying in the -church. It appears to be an early work, but no record exists to tell -whose memory it commemorates. - -[Illustration: FIG. 439.--Bathgate Church. Slab in Church to Andreas -Crichton.] - -Malcolm IV. (1153 to 1165) granted the church of “Bathket,” with certain -lands, to Holyrood.[200] Robert, Bishop of St. Andrews, who died about -1159, confirmed those grants. There was, further, a Papal confirmation -in 1164. In 1251, by a taxation of churches in the diocese of St. -Andrews, the vicar of the Church of Bathgate was to receive 12 merks of -the altar dues, to be assigned him at the sight of William, Archdeacon -of Lothian, and Master Alexander, of Edinburgh. This was confirmed by -Bishop Gamelin. - -[Illustration: FIG. 440.--Bathgate Church. Effigy.] - -The church and lands were afterwards given by the monks of Holyrood to -Newbotle, in payment of arrears of rent for lands and salt works in the -Carse of Callender, and this was confirmed by Bishop Landels, of St. -Andrews, in 1327.[201] The church remained with Newbotle, and was served -by a vicar till the Reformation. - -The old church was probably abandoned in 1739, when a new church was -erected in the town of Bathgate. - -[Illustration: From Dryburgh Abbey.] - - - - -INDEX. - - -Abb’s, St., Chapel, 437. - -Abercorn Church, description, 346. - -Aberdeen Cathedral, 47. - ----- St. Nicholas, description, 426. - -Abernethy Tower, 11, 15, 26; - description, 175. - -Adamnan, 11. - -Aidan, St., 11. - -Airth Church, description, 465. - -Alexander I., 29. - ----- II. and III., 50. - -Allen, J. Romilly, 2. - -Alnwick, 47. - -Anchorites, 1. - -Anderson, Dr. Joseph, 2, 3, 66. - -Antiquaries of Scotland, 101. - -Arbroath Abbey, 38, 47, 48, 49. - -Arched style of building, 32. - -Architecture, Scottish, of Fourteenth to Sixteenth Centuries, 50. - ----- Division of, 53. - ----- Ceases to be like English, 52. - ----- Connection with French, 52. - -Ardoilean, 8. - -Armstrong, R. B., 465. - -Augustine, St., 12. - -Aula, St., Gress, Lewis, 83. - - -Bangor Monastery, 5. - -Bathgate Church, description, 474. - -Bede, 12. - -Beehive Cells, 7, 24, 68. - -Benedict Biscop, 12. - -Beverley Minster, 54. - -Birnie, St. Brandon’s, description, 218. - -Birsay, Brough of, 135. - -Blane’s, St., Bute, description, 292. - -Boniface, St., 14. - -Boswell’s, St., description, 377. - -Brandon’s, St., Birnie, 218. - -Brechin Cathedral, 49, 57. - ----- Tower, 26, 48. - ----- Maison Dieu, 48. - -Brendan, St., 67. - -Brude, King, 10. - -Bunkle Church, description, 314. - -Burgundy, 35. - -Bute, St. Blane’s, 292. - -Buttresses introduced, 34. - - -Caithness Cathedral, 47. - -Cambuskenneth Abbey, 30. - -_Candida Casa_, 3, 5. - -Canmore, Malcolm, 15, 29. - -Canterbury Cathedral, 12. - -Cara, Gigha, Kintyre, 82. - -Carinish, North Uist, 81. - -Carmaig, St., Eilean Mor, 90. - ----- Knapdale, 84. - -Cashels, Irish, 7. - -Catan’s, St., Kintyre, 95. - -Cathedrals, Scottish, 49. - -Caves, 5. - -Cellach, 15. - -Celtic Art, 1. - ----- Church, 65. - ----- Churches standing alone, 78. - ----- ---- built with chancel and nave, 93. - ----- ---- with pointed or late features, 95. - ----- Structures in Scotland, 65. - -Chancel architecturally distinguished, 79. - ----- added to nave, 79. - -Chirnside Church, description, 322. - -Churches, dry built, 80. - ----- oblong, modified, 82. - ----- with nave and chancel added, 88. - ----- on islands, 105. - ----- in Orkney, 113. - -Clonmacnoise, 10. - -Coalisport, Loch, 10. - -Coldingham Priory, 30, 48; - description, 437. - -Columba, St., 5, 10, 67, 69. - ----- Church, Balivanich, 88. - ----- ---- Ey., Lewis, 91. - ----- ---- Kiels, Kintyre, 92. - ----- Isle, Lewis, 97. - -Columban Church, 11, 12, 13. - ----- Churches, 25. - -Collegiate Churches, 51, 60. - -Comgall, St., 5. - -Cormac’s Chapel, 28. - -Crosses, 9, 10, 17, 20. - -Cross, St., Church, 36. - -Crosraguel Abbey, 57, 58. - -Cruggleton Church, description, 212. - -Culbinsbrough Church, Bressay, 157. - -Culdees, 14, 15, 30. - -Culross Abbey, 48. - -Cuthbert, St., 5, 12. - - -Dalmeny Church, 38; - description, 298. - -Dalriada, 10. - -David I., 29, 30, 38. - -Decorated Architecture, 52, 53. - -Deerness, Brough of, 68, 101. - -Denis, St., 40. - -“Deserts,” 8. - -Devenish, Round Tower, 27. - -Dioceses, Scottish, 29. - -Doorways, 55. - -Drummond, James, 2. - -Dryburgh Abbey, 38, 47, 48, 49, 57; - description, 448. - -Dryden, Sir Henry, 3, 68, 101, 172. - -Duddingston Church, 39; - description, 333. - -Dunblane Cathedral, 38, 48, 49, 50. - -Dundrennan Abbey, 30, 47, 48; - description, 388. - -Dunfermline Abbey, 38; - description, 230. - -Dunkeld Cathedral, 47, 49, 62. - -Dunning, St. Serf’s, description, 204. - -Dun Othail, Lewis, 81. - -Duns Church, description, 381. - -Dunstaffnage Castle, 48. - -Durham Cathedral, 37. - - -Edinburgh Castle, Chapel, 29; - description, 224. - -Edrom Church, 316. - -Edward I., 51. - -Egilsey, Orkney, Church on, 26, 127. - ----- Choir, 100. - -Eilean Naomh, 66. - ----- Mòr, 77, 89. - ----- Munde, 83. - -Elgin Cathedral, 47, 48, 49. - -English Cathedrals, 40, 43. - -England, Church in, 12. - -Enhallow, Orkney, 116. - -Eorrapidh, Lewis, 99. - - -Farne Island, 12. - -Finnian, St., School of, 5. - -First Pointed Style, 39. - ----- ---- in Scotland, 46. - -“Flamboyant” Style, 2, 57, 58. - -Flannain Isles, 77. - -Fortrose Cathedral, 57. - -France, Architecture in, 40, 42, 43. - - -Galloway, William, 297. - -Gallowhead, 80. - -Germany, 35. - -Giles’, St., Edinburgh, 49, 51, 57, 60, 62. - -Giric, King, 15. - -Glasgow, Bishop of, 29. - ----- Cathedral, 47, 48, 49, 50, 57, 58. - -Gothic Architecture in Scotland, 2. - -Gullane, St. Andrew’s, 339. - - -Haddington, St. Martin’s, description, 362. - -Halcro Chapel, South Ronaldshay, 105. - -Head of Holland, Church at, 105. - -Helen’s, St., Church, description, 323. - -Herdmanston Font, description, 384. - -Hermits’ Cells, 73. - -Hexham, 12. - -Holy Cross Church, Lewis, 83. - -Holyrood Abbey, 30, 38, 47, 48. - -Howmore, South Uist, 70. - - -Inchcolm Abbey, 29, 48. - ----- Oratory, 24. - -Inch Kenneth, Ulva, 98. - ----- Mull, 165. - -Inchmahome, 48. - -Iona, 10, 11, 14. - ----- Cathedral, 49, 62. - -Iona, Carved Slabs, 23. - ----- The Nunnery, description, 421. - -Irish influence, 2, 9. - ----- Style of building, 8, 9. - ----- Round Towers, 26, 27, 28. - -Islands, Churches on, 8. - ----- Western, Architecture of, 65, 80. - - -Jarkow, 12, 13. - -Jedburgh Abbey, 38, 49; - description, 398. - -John the Baptist, Church of, Lewis, 95. - ----- St., Kirk of, Unst, 148. - - -Kelso Abbey, 38, 49; - description, 347. - -Kentigern, St., 11. - -Kevin, St., Cell of, 9. - -Kiels, Knapdale, 84. - -Kilbar, Barra, 71, 72. - -Kilbride, Knapdale, 98. - -Kilchenich, Tiree, 88. - -Kilchenzie, Kintyre, 93. - -Kilchieran, Islay, 96. - -Kilchieven, Kintyre, 100. - -Kilchoman Cross, 22. - -Kilchouslan, Kintyre, 92. - -Kildalton, Islay, 96. - -Killean, Kintyre, 98. - -Kilmory, Knapdale, 85. - -Kilmuir, Skye, 84. - -Kilnaughton, Islay, 96. - -Kilneave, Islay, 96. - -Kilrimont, 11. - -King’s College, Aberdeen, 62. - -Kinloss Abbey, 30; - description, 416. - -Kintyre, 3, 10, 82. - -Kirkaby, Westray, Shetland, 147. - -Kirkapoll, Tiree, 87. - -Kirkliston, description, 366. - -Kirkmadrine, Crosses at, 4. - -Kirkmaiden, description, 383. - -Kirkwall, St. Magnus’ Cathedral, 38, 48, 50; - description, 259. - ----- St. Ola, 109. - - -Laggan, Mull, 98. - -Lamington Church, description, 376. - -Lanark Church, 50. - -Lasswade Church, description, 471. - -Late or Third Pointed Style, 58. - ----- in Scotland, 60. - -Legerwood Church, description, 320. - -Leuchars Church, 38; - description, 309. - -Lewis, Butt of, 75. - -Lincluden College, 57. - -Lincoln Cathedral, 45, 47. - -Lindisfarne, 11. - -Linlithgow Church, 57. - -Linton Church, Roxburghshire, description, 378. - -Linton, Shapinsay, 122. - -Logierait Cross, 18. - -Lombardy, 35. - -Lundie, St. Lawrence, description, 382. - -Lybster, Caithness, Church, 162. - - -M‘Alpine, Kenneth, 14. - -M‘Lean’s Cross, Iona, 21. - -Madoe’s, St., Cross, 17. - -Magnus’, St., Cathedral, 259. - -Margaret, Queen, 15, 28, 29. - -Markinch Tower, description, 193. - -Martin’s, St., Church, Haddington, description, 362. - ----- Cross, Iona, 21. - -Mary’s, St., Lybster, 93, 94. - ----- Ratho, description, 371. - ----- Rutherglen, description, 372. - -Meal Colvidale, Unst, 148. - -Medan’s, St., Cave, 5. - -Melrose Abbey, 30, 47, 49, 51, 52, 55, 58, 62. - ----- Old, 11. - -Michael’s, St., Barra, 95. - -Middle Ages, art of, 2. - -Middle Pointed Style, characteristics, 53. - ----- ---- in Scotland, 55. - -Moluac, St., Raasay, 98. - ----- Teampull, Lewis, 99. - -Monasteries established, 31. - ----- in Scotland, proportions, 49. - -Monkwearmouth, 12, 13. - -Monymusk, 30; - description, 215. - -Mugstot, Skye, 69. - -Muir, T. S., 2, 26, 65. - -Muthill Church, description, 196. - - -Nattes, J. Claude, 196. - -Ness, North Yell, 151. - -Netherlands, 2. - -New Abbey, 50. - -Newbattle Abbey, 30. - -Nicholas’, St., Aberdeen, 39; - description, 426. - -Nicholas’, St., Strathbroc, description, 342. - -Ninian, St., 3. - -Ninian’s, St., Sanda, 97. - -Norman Architecture, 1, 28. - ----- ---- in Scotland, 191. - ----- Immigrants, 30. - ----- Influence, 79, 84. - ----- Style, 35. - ----- ---- in Scotland, 38. - -Norsemen, 14. - -Northumbria, Church in, 11, 12. - -Noss Kirk of Bressay, 146. - -Nunnery, The, Iona, description, 421. - -Nuntown, Benbecula, 83. - - -Ola’s, St., Kirkwall, 109. - -Olrig, Caithness, 99. - -Oran’s, St., Iona, 220. - -Oratories, Irish, 8. - -“Orders” in Architecture, 33. - -Orkney, 3. - -Orkney and Shetland, Churches, 101. - ----- Characteristics, 159. - ----- Dates, 162. - ----- Monuments, 160. - ----- Proportions, 161. - -Ornament, 35. - -Oronsay, Cross at, 22. - -Orphir, Orkney, 141. - -Oswald’s, St., Oxstall, 47. - -Oxstall, St. Oswald’s, 47. - - -Pabba, Harris, 84. - -Paisley Abbey, 47, 62. - -Palladius, St., 5. - -Papa Westray, 106. - -Parochial divisions, 31. - -Patrick, St., 5. - -Pennygowan, Mull, 98. - -Periods of Architecture, 2. - -Perpendicular Style, 2, 57, 58. - -Peterhead, St. Peter’s, 371. - -Peter’s, St., Peterhead, description, 371. - -Petrie, Dr., 3, 26. - -Piers, 55. - -Pillar Stones, 9. - -Pluscardine Abbey, 58. - -Pointed Arch, 79. - ----- Style, 40. - -Pre-Norman Churches, 13. - - -Ratho, St. Mary’s, description, 371. - -“Raths,” Irish, 6. - -Reeves, Dr., 3. - -Regulus’, St. Andrews, 13, 28; - description, 185. - -Reilig Oran, 28. - -Restennet Priory, 13, 48; - description, 178. - -Richard II., 51, 57. - -Rievaux Abbey, 47. - -Ripon, 12. - -Robert I., 51, 55, 57. - -Roman Church, 12, 14, 15, 65. - ----- Masonry, 32. - -Romanesque Architecture, 1, 28, 32, 35. - -Ronan, St., 73. - -Round Churches, 145. - -Rossie Priory, Cross at, 19. - -Royal Domain, France, 40. - -Rutherglen, St. Mary’s, description, 372. - - -St. Andrews, 15, 30, 38, 47, 49. - -Salisbury Cathedral, 41, 44. - -Saxon Influence, 1. - -Scone, 29, 47. - -Sculptured Stones, 3, 15, 16. - -Sculptures, Symbolic, 10. - -Seven Hunters, 77. - -Shetland, 3. - ----- Churches in, 101, 145. - -Skeabost, Skye, 68. - -Skellig Mhichel, 7. - -Skipness, St. Columba’s, 48. - -Slabs, cross bearing, 9, 15, 17. - -Smailholm Church, description, 378. - -Spires with open work, 62. - -Stobo Church, 39; - description, 329. - -Stokes, Miss, 3. - -Strathbroc, St. Nicholas’, description, 342. - -Subordination of Arches, &c., 35. - -Suger, Abbé, 40. - -Sweudro, Rousay, 108. - -Sweetheart Abbey, 49, 57. - -Symbols, 16. - - -Teampull Chalumchille, 89. - ----- Pheadair, Lewis, 83. - ----- Rona, 73, 74. - ----- Sula Sgeir, 75, 76. - ----- Na-Trianaide, 81. - -Thomas, Captain, 82. - -Tigh Beannachadh, 76, 77, 78, 80. - -Toehead, Harris, 83. - -Transition Style, 387. - ----- from Celtic to Norman, 174. - -Tredwell’s, St., Chapel, 106. - -Trinity College, Edinburgh, 57, 60. - -Trophime, St., Arles, 33. - -Trumpan, Skye, 84. - -Turgot, 29. - -Tynninghame Church, description, 326. - - -Vaults, Barrel, 33. - ----- Groined, 34. - ----- Late, 58. - ----- Pointed, 40. - -Vigeans, St., Cross, 20. - - -Uphall Church, 39; - description, 342. - -Urquhart, 30. - -Uya Church, Shetland, 149. - - -Wattle Construction, 6. - -Wenlock Abbey, 47. - -Westness Chapel, 108. - -Westray, Orkney, 124. - -Whithorn, Crosses at, 4. - -William the Lion, 38. - -Wilson, Sir Daniel, 2. - -Winchester Cathedral, 61. - -Winifred, St., 12. - -Wooden Roofs, 60. - -Wyre, Orkney, 113. - - * * * * * - -ARCHITECTURAL - -ARCHÆOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL WORKS - -RECENTLY PUBLISHED - -BY DAVID DOUGLAS - - * * * * * - -_Five Volumes Royal 8vo, 42s. net each volume, with about 500 -Illustrations in each volume._ - -THE - -CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC -ARCHITECTURE -OF SCOTLAND - -FROM THE TWELFTH TO THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY - -BY -DAVID MACGIBBON AND THOMAS ROSS -ARCHITECTS - - -[Illustration] - - “One of the most important and complete books on Scottish - architecture that has ever been compiled. 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By PATRICK DUDGEON, - Cargen. Small 4to, 3s. 6d. - - -EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] Skene’s _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 46. - -[2] Skene, Vol. II. p. 32. - -[3] Romilly Allen, _Early Christian Symbolism_, p. 88. - -[4] _Proceedings of Antiquarian Society of Scotland_, Vol. -IX. p. 568. - -[5] For an account of explorations and illustrations of crosses -discovered by Sir H. E. Maxwell, see _Ayr and Galloway Association_, -Vol. V. p. 1, and Vol. VI. p. 34. - -[6] T. S. Muir, _Ecclesiastical Notes_, p. 226. - -[7] _Ayr and Galloway Association_, Vol. VI. p. 17. - -[8] Skene, Vol. II. p. 56. - -[9] Dunraven’s _Irish Architecture_, Vol. I. p. xviii. - -[10] Reeves’ _Adamnan_, p. 177.--Dr. Reeves quotes many instances -of churches formed with wattles. Thus, the first church erected in -Britain, at Ynswitrin, had the walls of the chapel constructed of -twisted twigs; St. Gwynllyw, _circa_ 580, founded a temple constructed -with boards and twigs. In Ireland, when St. Kieran was preparing to -build his church, a friendly wild boar is said to have appeared and -cut off twigs and ploughed up turf with his tusks so as to furnish the -Saint with materials. St. Kevin constructed his oratory with wattles. -At Raithin, St. Carthacus built himself a cell with reeds which Columba -had provided. St. Voloc also built his abode with reeds and twigs. - -[11] This name belonged to the Irish till about the tenth century, when -it was transferred to the inhabitants of the existing Scotland. - -[12] Petrie, p. 446. - -[13] For illustrations of raths and cashels, see Lord Dunraven’s _Notes -on Architecture_. - -[14] Petrie, p. 129. - -[15] J. Anderson, _Scotland in Early Christian Times_, 1st Series, p. -83. - -[16] Petrie, p. 132. - -[17] _Ibid._ p. 136. - -[18] Dunraven, Vol. II. p. 141. - -[19] Petrie, p. 162. - -[20] Dunraven, Vol. I. p. xx. - -[21] See Dr. J. Anderson’s _Lectures on Scotland in Early Christian -Times_. - -[22] Romilly Allen, pp. 82, 84. - -[23] _Ibid._ p. 136. - -[24] Skene, Vol. II. p. 88. - -[25] Skene, Vol. II. p. 121. - -[26] _Ibid._ p. 128. - -[27] _Ibid._ p. 137. - -[28] Skene, Vol. II. p. 212. - -[29] “Pre-Conquest Churches of England.”--_Reliquary_, 1893. - -[30] Skene, Vol. II. p. 227. - -[31] Skene, Vol. II. p. 229. - -[32] _Ibid._ p. 268. - -[33] Skene, Vol. II. p. 309.--This round tower, no -doubt, owes its origin to the Irish influence referred to, but, as -will be pointed out, there are architectural reasons for assigning the -structure to a later period. - -[34] _Ibid._ p. 320. - -[35] _Ibid._ p. 331. - -[36] See _Scotland in Early Christian Times_, by Dr. Joseph Anderson, -Vols. I. and II. - -[37] _Early Christian Times_, Vol. II. p. 95. - -[38] Anderson, Vol. II. Lecture IV. - -[39] Romilly Allen, Lecture VI. - -[40] Anderson, Vol. II. p. 80. - -[41] _Ibid._ p. 130. - -[42] Romilly Allen, p. 238. - -[43] _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_, Vol. III. -pp. 127, 153, 206, 225; Muir’s _Ecclesiastical Notes_, p. 65. - -[44] Anderson, Vol. I. p. 64. - -[45] For Illustration see p. 64. - -[46] Anderson, Vol. I. p. 59. - -[47] Petrie, p. 291. - -[48] _Ibid._ p. 395. - -[49] _Ibid._ p. 320. - -[50] Reeves’ _Adamnan_, p. 410. - -[51] Skene, Vol. II. p. 368. - -[52] _Ibid._ p. 374. - -[53] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 376. - -[54] Innes, _Sketches of Early Scotch History_, pp. 10-12. - -[55] Innes, _Sketches of Early Scotch History_, p. 17. - -[56] “Scottish Churches and Cathedrals,” by Dr. Joseph Robertson, -_Quarterly Review_, 1849, p. 117. - -[57] See _Castellated and Domestic Architecture_, Vol. -I. p. 90, and Vol. III. p. 72. - -[58] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture_, Vol. III., -Introduction. - -[59] Muir, _Old Church Architecture of Scotland_, p. 67. - -[60] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture_, Vol. V., -p. 130. - -[61] See Introduction, p. 8. - -[62] _Characteristics_, p. 141. - -[63] _Ibid._ p. 142. - -[64] For a further example of a primitive church and cells, see the -Brough of Deerness, described by Sir H. Dryden in the following pages. -It will be observed that the simple oblong church, with door in west -end and one window in east end, is surrounded with a number of ruins of -stone huts, which were no doubt the dwellings of the monastic family -of the establishment; while near the land side are the remains of the -cashel or fortification of the platform. - -[65] _Notes_, p. 35. - -[66] _Ibid._ p. 272. - -[67] _Characteristics_, p. 163. - -[68] _Notes_, p. 50. - -[69] _Notes_, p. 51. - -[70] _Ibid._ p. 280. - -[71] _Ibid._ p. 51. - -[72] _Ibid._ p. 52. - -[73] _Notes_, p. 93. - -[74] _Notes_, pp. 97-98. - -[75] _Characteristics_, p. 205. - -[76] _Notes_, p. 60. - -[77] _Notes_, p. 60. - -[78] _Characteristics_, p. 180. - -[79] The churches in Orkney and Shetland present many fine examples of -chanceled buildings. These, although described in Mr. Muir’s works, -are more fully treated in the descriptions and illustrations kindly -supplied by Sir H. Dryden, and now printed for the first time. - -[80] _Notes_, p. 41. - -[81] _Ibid._ p. 43. - -[82] _Notes_, pp. 48 and 276. - -[83] This church (Trinity) 61½ feet long; breadth, 21 feet. North wall -has a round-headed window of undressed stones at east end, 2½ feet -wide, splaying to 4½ feet inside. Arch of door obtusely pointed. On -north side a small chapel connected by round-arched porch, not bonded -into church. Entrance to chapel has inclined jambs. Chapel 23 feet -long by 13½ feet broad inside; walls 2½ feet thick. In east wall small -rectangular window, and an ambry on each side of window. Similar window -in south wall. Small chapel, believed to be very ancient. Chapel of -Carinish probably rebuilt by Amy M‘Ruari about 1390.--Captain Thomas, -_Archæologia Scot._, Vol. V. p. 226. - -[84] _Notes_, pp. 11 and 264. - -[85] _Notes_, p. 23. - -[86] _Ibid._ p. 42. - -[87] _Ibid._ p. 42. - -[88] _Ibid._ p. 44. - -[89] _Ibid._ p. 44. - -[90] _Ibid._ p. 278. - -[91] _Notes_, p. 61. - -[92] _Ibid._ p. 269. - -[93] _Ibid._ p. 270. - -[94] _Notes_, p. 180. - -[95] _Ibid._ p. 192. - -[96] Dr. J. Anderson regards this as a church mentioned in a document by -Pope Gregory XI., of date 20th September 1375.--_Scotland in Early -Christian Times._ - -[97] _Notes_, p. 30. - -[98] _Ibid._ pp. 49, 278; _Characteristics_, p. 226. - -[99] Teampull Chalumchille, Captain Thomas, _Archæologia_, Vol. -V. p. 239. - -[100] _Characteristics_, p. 132, and _Notes_, p. 200. - -[101] _Notes_, p. 39. - -[102] _Characteristics_, p. 50. - -[103] _Ibid._ p. 51. - -[104] _Notes_, p. 107. See also drawings and description of this church -by Sir Henry Dryden (below). - -[105] _Notes_, p. 42. - -[106] _Ibid._ p. 283. - -[107] _Ibid._ pp. 10, 262. - -[108] _Notes_, p. 13. - -[109] _Ibid._ p. 13. - -[110] _Ibid._ p. 14. - -[111] _Ibid._ p. 15. - -[112] _Notes_, p. 8. - -[113] _Notes_, p. 55. - -[114] _Ibid._ p. 25. - -[115] _Ibid._ p. 26. - -[116] _Ibid._ p. 28. See also illustrations and description of this -church by Sir Henry Dryden (below). - -[117] _Ibid._ p. 38. - -[118] _Characteristics_, p. 51. - -[119] _Ibid._ p. 55. - -[120] _Notes_, p. 43. - -[121] _Ibid._ p. 109. - -[122] See account of doorway in chapel on Brough of Birsay for notice -of this point. - -[123] See account of doorway in chapel on Brough of Birsay for notice -of this point. - -[124] See the first article on “Ancient Orcadia” in the _Orcadian_ of -... 1860. - -[125] See account of Chapel on the Brough of Birsay. - -[126] See account of windows in Egilsey. - -[127] See observations on these entrances in notes on the Brough of -Birsay. - -[128] See Petrie’s _Round Towers_, pp. 162, 181-5. - -[129] Ecclesiastical Notes on the Orkneys, &c. - -[130] See account of the early Bishops of Orkney by Professor Munch, in -_Bannatyne’s Miscellany_, Vol. III., 1855. - -[131] See Petrie’s _Round Towers_, and Wilson’s _Prehistoric Annals_. - -[132] See Petrie’s _Round Towers_. - -[133] _History of Orkney_, p. 34. - -[134] Britton, _Arch. Ant._, Vol. I.; North, _Arch. -Soc._, Part 10, 1860; Billings’ _Temple Church_. - -[135] See _Scotland in Early Christian Times_, by Joseph Anderson, -LL.D., p. 62. - -[136] See Introduction, p. 27. - -[137] See Introduction, p. 14. - -[138] _Ibid._ p. 11. - -[139] In an interesting paper by him in the _Archæologia Scotica_, Vol. -V., Part 2. - -[140] Figs. 146 and 147 are from sketches by Mr. T. S. Robertson, -architect, Dundee, whom we have to thank for assistance in connection -with this church. - -[141] _Historical Manuscript Commission_, 14th Report, App., Part -III., p. 175 and 187. - -[142] Page 11. - -[143] _Quarterly Review_, June 1849, p. 120. - -[144] The lines on south side of tower show foundations now exposed, -and a built-up door in south wall of tower is not shown, being -apparently not original. - -[145] Introduction, p. 13. - -[146] _Lecture II._, p. 24. - -[147] Page 36. - -[148] Page 38. - -[149] From a drawing in the possession of Mr. David Douglas, publisher. - -[150] The sketch is a very slight and hurried one, and is not at -all finished in detail; but it is enough, when taken with the other -drawings, to enable a fair idea to be formed of the completed church. -The tower has had a clock dial, placed so as to conceal the south -windows. The traceried windows of the south aisle of the nave are -indicated, along with the lintelled doorway and a raised window, which -may have been over an outside stair in connection with a gallery. The -east window of the aisle is shown built up, with a square shuttered -window inserted where the mullions formerly were, and the small window -above has been enlarged for light to the gallery. The view of the -chancel is particularly interesting, this part of the church having now -almost disappeared. In the choir a mullioned window of three lights -is shown above the sedilia, and a small door is knocked through the -latter. The east end is shown lighted by three simple lancet windows. - -[151] We are greatly indebted to the Rev. Mr. Thomson, Dunning, for -assistance in regard to this church. - -[152] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II., pp. 389-92. - -[153] Page 28. - -[154] First Volume, p. 462. - -[155] We have to thank Sir Henry Dryden for liberty to use the measured -drawings of St. Margaret’s Chapel, made by him in 1866. - -[156] Introduction to _Registrum de Dunfermlyn_, p. 25. - -[157] Introduction to _Registrum de Dunfermlyn_, p. 25. - -[158] _Ibid._ p. 25. - -[159] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -V. p. 522. - -[160] See _Annals of Dunfermline_, by the Rev. Ebenezer Henderson, p. -211. - -[161] _Annals of Dunfermline_, p. 205. - -[162] _Ibid._ p. 342. - -[163] We are indebted for the loan of this Plan, drawn by Mr. -Henderson, to Mr. Robertson, Dunfermline, custodier of the buildings. - -[164] Tytler, _History of Scotland_, Vol. I., year -1303-4. - -[165] _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -I., p. 514. - -[166] We have to thank Sir Henry Dryden for permission to use the -ground plan and other drawings and descriptions relating to St. Magnus, -published in the transactions of the Architectural Institute of -Scotland, 1858-61. - -[167] We have to express our indebtedness to the late Mr. Robert -Matheson, Architect, Edinburgh, for the foregoing sections and -elevation and the plan of the triforium, with which he was good enough -to supply us so long ago as 1866. - -[168] See _Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland_, Vol. -I. p. 519. - -[169] See the _Orkneyinga Saga_, Introduction by Dr. J. Anderson. - -[170] _Statistical Account._ - -[171] _Early Christian Symbolism_, p. 255. - -[172] _Illustrations of the Shires of Aberdeen and Banff_, _Spalding -Club_, p. 692. - -[173] The churches of Berwickshire have been very fully treated by Mr. -J. Ferguson, Duns, in a paper reprinted from the _Transactions of the -Berwickshire Naturalists’ Club_, 1890. We are much indebted to Mr. -Ferguson and Mr. George Fortune, architect, Duns, for assistance in -regard to these churches. - -[174] _Characteristics_, p. 12. - -[175] This illustration is from a drawing by Mr. John Dickson, -solicitor, Banff, lent by Mr. Ferguson. - -[176] Vol. III., p. 298. - -[177] _Caledonia_, Vol. II. p. 393. - -[178] _Celtic Scotland_, Vol. II. p. 223. - -[179] _Caledonia_, Vol. I., p. 954. - -[180] _Origines Parochiales_, Vol. I. - -[181] _Caledonia_ (Linlithgowshire), p. 866, and _Transactions of -Antiquarian Society, Edinburgh_, First Vol. (1792), p. 150-5. - -[182] Morton’s _Annals of Teviotdale_. - -[183] _Robb’s Guide to Haddington_, p. 44. - -[184] In connection with this church, we have to thank Mr. James Reid, -jun., Peterhead, for his ready assistance. - -[185] _Transactions of the Buchan Field Club_, by James Aiken, -Peterhead. 1889. - -[186] We are greatly indebted to Mr. George Gray, Town Clerk of -Rutherglen, for assistance in connection with the notice of this church. - -[187] _The Pre-Reformation Churches of Berwickshire_, pp. 7 and 38. - -[188] To whom we are indebted for the Plan. - -[189] _Caledonia_, Vol. II. p. 529. - -[190] M‘Kerlic’s _Galloway_, Vol. V., p. 68. - -[191] The particulars of the history of Kinloss Abbey are extracted -from the “Records of the Monastery,” by Dr. John Stewart. - -[192] These are beautifully illustrated by the late James Drummond, -R.S.A., in his _West Highland Monuments_. - -[193] Extracts from the “Council Register of the Burgh of Aberdeen” -(Spalding Club, p. 94.) - -[194] There are scanty, but distinct, traces of two churches on St. -Abb’s Head, about three miles north from Coldingham. They are situated -about half a mile apart, one to the west of the promontory and the -other to the south-east, and both stand on high cliffs overlooking the -sea. - -The one to the south-east, called St. Abb’s Chapel, (1) is situated -in the centre of a churchyard, all the remaining tombstones of which -were thrown into the sea during some law proceedings regarding the -right of access by the public to St. Abb’s Head. At the time Carr wrote -his _History of Coldingham Priory_ (published 1836), the walls of the -church were standing to a height of some three or four feet; now only -the grass-covered foundations remain. These indicate a chancelled -building, the outside dimensions of which are:--length of chancel from -east to west about 21 feet, width - -[Illustration] - -about 24 feet; length of nave 56 feet by 30 feet in width. The chancel -is full of rubbish, especially at the place where the arch is usually -situated; but it is not unlikely that by digging here some remains -might be found sufficient to indicate the style and period of the -building. From Carr’s description it appears to have been a Norman -building, as he speaks of a “small Saxon arch” (the term frequently -used by writers about the beginning of the century for a Norman arch) -as visible in his time (p. 243). - -The other chapel at St. Abb’s Head (2) is in very much the same state -as the one just described, except that more of the masonry is visible. -It measures, on the inside, about 69 feet long by 22 feet wide, -with walls about 4 feet thick. In the centre of the west wall there -is a recess, about 6 feet long by 2 feet 6 inches wide; and at the -north-east corner there is a notch about 9 feet square, cut out of the -chapel, as it were, forming, to all appearance, a chancel, narrower -than the nave on one side instead of in the centre. The remains are -very scanty. - -[195] _Caledonia._ - -[196] Morton’s _Monastic Annals of Teviotdale_. - -[197] We are indebted to Mr. Robert B. Armstrong, F.S.A., for the use -of drawings, and to Major W. Bruce Armstrong for some interesting notes. - -[198] Original birth brief in the possession of the Comte de Bruce from -Charles I., dated 13th July 1633, to Adam Bruce, younger son of Anthony -Bruce of Waltoun, ancestor of the Comte de Bruce, deducing his descent, -through the families of Bruce of Waltoun, Lethbertschielles, and Airth, -from the house of Clackmannan, in which it is stated that Alexander -Bruce of Airth was legitimate son of Sir Robert Bruce of Clackmannan. - -[199] _Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian_, by D. Laing, p. cxx. - -[200] Chart, Newbotle, 159. _Caledonia_, Vol. ii., p. 888. - -[201] _Ibid._ - - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF -SCOTLAND FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY; VOL. -1/3 *** - -***** This file should be named 63940-0.txt or 63940-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/9/4/63940/ - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this ebook. - -Title: The ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland from the earliest - Christian times to the seventeenth century; vol. 1/3 - -Author: David MacGibbon - Thomas Ross - -Release Date: December 02, 2020 [EBook #63940] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team - at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - available at The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF -SCOTLAND FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY; VOL. -1/3 *** -</pre><hr class="full" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/cover.jpg"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" height="550" alt="[Image of the cover -is unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;margin:1em auto 1em auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td> - -<p class="c"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents.</a><br /> -<a href="#INDEX">Index:</a><small> -<a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I-i">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>.</small></p> -<p class="c"><span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] -clicking on the image will bring up a larger version.)</span></p> - -<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_i" id="page_i">{i}</a></span></p> - -<p class="c">THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE<br /> -OF SCOTLAND<br /><br /> -<small>FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE -SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.</small> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ii" id="page_ii">{ii}</a></span></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" -style="font-size:73%;"> -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2"><i>Edinburgh: Printed by George Waterston & Sons</i></td></tr> -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2">FOR</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2">DAVID DOUGLAS.</td></tr> -<tr><td>LONDON,</td><td>SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, AND CO., LIMITED</td></tr> -<tr><td>CAMBRIDGE,</td><td> MACMILLAN AND BOWES</td></tr> -<tr><td>GLASGOW,</td><td>JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iii" id="page_iii">{iii}</a></span></p> - -<h1> -THE<br /> -<br /> -ECCLESIASTICAL<br /> -<br /> -<big>ARCHITECTURE</big><br /> -<br /> -OF SCOTLAND<br /> -<br /><small> -FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE<br /> -SEVENTEENTH CENTURY</small></h1> - -<p class="c">BY<br /> -<br /> -DAVID MACGIBBON <small>AND</small> THOMAS ROSS<br /> -<br /> -<small>AUTHORS OF “THE CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND”</small><br /> -<br /> -<i>VOLUME ONE</i><br /> -<br /> -<img src="images/title.png" height="250" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -<br /> -<br /> -EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS<br /> -<br /> -MDCCCXCVI<br /> -<br /> -<i>All rights reserved.</i><br /></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iv" id="page_iv">{iv}</a></span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v">{v}</a></span> </p> - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">While</span> engaged upon their work on <i>The Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland</i>, the authors were frequently brought in -contact with the various ecclesiastical structures throughout the -country, and they naturally availed themselves of such opportunities to -make notes and sketches of these interesting edifices.</p> - -<p>These notes and sketches, together with others made during a long series -of years, formed a considerable fund of information and a collection of -drawings, the possession of which has induced the authors to undertake -the completion of the illustration and description of the Ancient -Architecture of Scotland, by adding an account of the Ecclesiastical to -that of the Castellated and Domestic Architecture of the country already -given to the public.</p> - -<p>The size of the former book has been found to be somewhat restricted for -many of the illustrations of the churches, but it has been thought best, -for the sake of uniformity, to adhere to the same size and style as in -the former work.</p> - -<p>The subject of the Castles and Mansions, having been previously little -investigated, afforded a fresh field for enquiry. The history and -gradual development of the design and construction of these buildings -had to be wrought out and arranged in periods according to the dates and -the peculiarities of the structures, and an appro<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vi" id="page_vi">{vi}</a></span>priate nomenclature -had to be invented. These considerations added greatly to the interest -of the subject.</p> - -<p>In Ecclesiastical Architecture the case is different. The various styles -and periods of Gothic architecture, both in this country and abroad, -have for long been carefully investigated and defined. It thus only -remains to apply to our Scottish edifices the system already adopted in -the rest of Europe. An attempt is made in this work to do so, and -attention is drawn to the various points in which Scottish Church -Architecture agrees with and differs from that of other countries.</p> - -<p>It has been suggested that our Ecclesiastical Architecture might be -arranged in connection with the various orders of ecclesiastics by whom -it was employed, and the specialities of the architecture of the various -orders pointed out. This matter has not escaped attention; but it has -been found impossible to form a system of nomenclature on that -foundation.</p> - -<p>The more this subject is investigated, the stronger is the conviction -that there is, in this country at least, practically no difference in -the style of architecture of the different orders of Churchmen from the -twelfth to the sixteenth century. The cathedrals and parish and other -churches were all built on general and well understood principles. The -monasteries also were all constructed on the same general plan. Whether -the occupants were Canons Regular or Monks of the Cistercian, -Tyronensian, Premonstratensian or other order, or even Franciscans or -Dominicans, their convents were all designed on one general system.</p> - -<p>The plan consisted of an open court or cloister, sur<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vii" id="page_vii">{vii}</a></span>rounded by a -covered walk, having on one side (generally the north side) the nave of -the church; while on the east side, in connection with the transept, lay -the sacristy, chapter house, and frequently the fratery or day-room of -the monks, on the upper floor of which range extended the dormitory, -library, &c. The south side of the cloister was occupied by the -refectory and kitchen; and the west side contained cellars and stores, -and apartments for the lay brothers and guests.</p> - -<p>These dispositions were sometimes extended and modified, but were -invariably adhered to on the whole.</p> - -<p>None of our Scottish monasteries are sufficiently well preserved to -exhibit these arrangements in their entirety; but the various portions -of the different convents which survive always correspond with the parts -which would be expected in the positions they occupy.</p> - -<p>As regards the style of the architecture and ornamentation, the only -difference observable is that which is common to all the structures of -the respective periods.</p> - -<p>While it is intended to include in this work all the examples of ancient -church architecture discoverable in Scotland, such subjects as ancient -sites, demolished structures, and mere foundations do not fall within -its scope, and are only referred to incidentally. These matters belong -to the province of archæology, not to that of architecture.</p> - -<p>Most of the ancient ecclesiastical structures of the West Highlands and -Islands, and also those of Orkney and Shetland, being of a special and -somewhat indefinite, although very interesting, character, are treated -separately, before the main subject of the work is entered on.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_viii" id="page_viii">{viii}</a></span></p> - -<p>In connection with the churches of Orkney and Shetland, the authors have -to express their obligation to Sir <span class="smcap">Henry E. L. Dryden</span> for his kindness -in allowing his drawings and descriptions of these buildings to be -incorporated in this work. They have also to thank the <span class="smcap">Council</span> of the -<span class="smcap">Society of Antiquaries of Scotland</span>, with whom these drawings and -descriptions are deposited, for their permission to use them.</p> - -<p>The descriptions of the churches of the Highlands and Islands are, as -stated in the book, chiefly abstracted from the late Mr. <span class="smcap">T. S. Muir’s</span> -interesting volumes.</p> - -<p>The authors further take this opportunity of returning their sincere -thanks to the many friends and well-wishers who have rendered them -assistance in their labours. The names of many of these gentlemen are -mentioned in connection with a number of the different structures. They -would also express their indebtedness to all those whose permission was -necessary to enable them to visit and make drawings of public and -private buildings, which permission was invariably freely given.</p> - -<p>They have specially to acknowledge their indebtedness to Dr. <span class="smcap">Joseph -Anderson</span>, of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, for his goodness in -revising the portion of the work dealing with Celtic Art; to Mr. <span class="smcap">T. S. -Robertson</span>, Architect, Dundee, and Mr. <span class="smcap">William Galloway</span>, Architect, -Wigton, for their assistance in supplying drawings, and otherwise; and -to Dr. <span class="smcap">Dickson</span>, late of the Register House, Edinburgh, for valuable aid -in many ways.</p> - -<p><small><span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span>, <i>January 1896</i>.</small></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ix" id="page_ix">{ix}</a></span> </p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" -style="font-size:90%;"> - -<tr><td colspan="3" class="c">INTRODUCTION.</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd" colspan="3">Various branches of early art in Scotland—Cells of -Anchorites—Celtic art—Round towers and sculptured monuments, -succeeded by Norman and Gothic architecture—Native -developments—Previous writers on Celtic art (<a href="#page_3">3</a>)—Primitive -Christianity—<i>Candida Casa</i>—Crosses and caves—St. -Palladius—Irish monasteries—Wattles—Beehive cells -(<a href="#page_7">7</a>)—Cashels—“Deserts”—Christian structures (<a href="#page_9">9</a>)—Irish MSS. and -slabs—Symbolic sculptures—St. Columba—Iona—Missionaries from -Northumbria—Lindisfarne—Roman influence—St. Augustine—Benedict -Biscop—St. Winifred (<a href="#page_12">12</a>)—Pre-Norman churches—Columbans -expelled—Culdees—Roman system introduced (<a href="#page_14">14</a>)—Revival of Celtic -system—Celtic art (<a href="#page_15">15</a>)—Symbols (<a href="#page_16">16</a>)—Upright slabs -(<a href="#page_17">17</a>)—Development of design of—Sculptures, origin of—Western -crosses (<a href="#page_20">20</a>)—Early Ecclesiastical Structures in Scotland -(<a href="#page_24">24</a>)—Beehive huts—Churches—Round towers (<a href="#page_26">26</a>)—Brechin and -Abernethy—St. Regulus—Churches erected by Queen -Margaret—Alexander I.—David I.—Parochial system (<a href="#page_31">31</a>)—Romanesque -architecture (<a href="#page_32">32</a>)—Vaulting, development of (<a href="#page_34">34</a>)—Subordination of -members (<a href="#page_35">35</a>)—Norman Style, examples (<a href="#page_36">36</a>)—Norman Style in Scotland -(<a href="#page_38">38</a>)—First Pointed Style (<a href="#page_39">39</a>)—Salisbury Cathedral (<a href="#page_41">41</a>)—France -and England compared (<a href="#page_43">43</a>)—Examples of the style (<a href="#page_45">45</a>)—First -Pointed Style in Scotland (<a href="#page_46">46</a>)—Derived from England (<a href="#page_47">47</a>)—Examples -(<a href="#page_48">48</a>)—Architecture of Fourteenth, Fifteenth, and Sixteenth -Centuries in Scotland (<a href="#page_50">50</a>)—Divided into Decorated and Late Pointed -(<a href="#page_52">52</a>)—Middle Pointed or Decorated Style (<a href="#page_53">53</a>)—Middle Pointed or -Decorated Style in Scotland (<a href="#page_55">55</a>)—Examples—Third or Late Pointed -Style (<a href="#page_58">58</a>)—Examples—Third or Late Pointed Style in Scotland -(<a href="#page_60">60</a>)—Effects of English and French influence (<a href="#page_62">62</a>).</td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="3"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_x" id="page_x">{x}</a></span> -CELTIC MONASTIC AND ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES IN SCOTLAND.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="3" class="tdnpdd"><a href="#I">I.</a><span class="smcap">Simple Oblong Churches, associated with Beehive Cells and Churches in Groups.</span></td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2"> </td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Eilean Naomh,</td><td valign="top">Argyleshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_66">66</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Skeabost,</td><td valign="top">Skye,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_68">68</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Mugstot,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_69">69</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Howmore,</td><td valign="top">South Uist,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_70">70</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kilbar,</td><td valign="top">Barra,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_71">71</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2" class="tdnpdd"><a href="#II">II.</a><span class="smcap">Hermits’ Cells</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_73">73</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The Chapel of St. Ronan,</td><td valign="top">North Rona,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_73">73</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Teampull Sula Sgeir,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_75">75</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Flannain Isles, or Seven Hunters,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_77">77</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Teampull Beannachadh,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_77">77</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2" class="tdnpdd"><a href="#III">III.</a><span class="smcap">Celtic Churches standing alone</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_78">78</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">1. One oblong chamber. 2. Do., with modifications.<br /> -3. With architecturally distinguished chancel.<br /> -4. With chancel or nave added. 5. With pointed arches,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_79">79</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="pddtp">(<i>A</i>) <span class="smcap">Churches dry-built and Churches with sloping jambs</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_80">80</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Tigh Beannachadh,</td><td valign="top">Lewis,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_80">80</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Dun Othail,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_81">81</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Carinish,</td><td valign="top">North Uist,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_81">81</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="pddtp">(<i>B</i>) <span class="smcap">Simple oblong Churches with modified features</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_82">82</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Cara, off Gigha,</td><td valign="top">Kintyre,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_82">82</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Eilean Munde,</td><td valign="top">Lochleven,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_83">83</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Church of Holy Cross, South Galston, Lewis,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_83">83</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Teampull Pheadair,</td><td valign="top">Lewis,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_83">83</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Aula, Gress,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_83">83</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Toehead,</td><td valign="top">Harris,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_83">83</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Nuntown,</td><td valign="top">Benbecula,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_83">83</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Pabba,</td><td valign="top">Sound of Harris,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_84">84</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kilmuir,</td><td valign="top">Skye,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_84">84</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Trumpan,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_84">84</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pddtp" colspan="2"><i>Churches showing signs of Norman influence</i>:—</td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Carmaig, Kiels,</td><td valign="top">Knapdale,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_84">84</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kilmory,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_85">85</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kirkapoll,</td><td valign="top">Tiree (Ithica Terra),</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_87">87</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kilchenich,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_88">88</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="pddtp"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xi" id="page_xi">{xi}</a></span> -(<i>C</i>) <span class="smcap">Churches with Chancel, -or Nave added to an older structure</span>,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_88">88</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Columba, Balivanich,</td><td valign="top">Benbecula,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_88">88</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Eilean Mor,</td><td valign="top">Knapdale,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_89">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Columba’s, Ey.,</td><td valign="top">Lewis,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_91">91</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Columba, Kiels,</td><td valign="top">Kintyre,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_92">92</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Kilchouslan, Campbeltown,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_92">92</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Kilchenzie,</td><td valign="top">Do., Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_93">93</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2" class="tdnpdd"><a href="#IV">IV.</a><span class="smcap">Churches built with Chancel and Nave.</span></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Mary’s, Lybster,</td><td valign="top">Caithness,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_93">93</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Church of John the Baptist, South Bragair, Lewis,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_95">95</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Michael’s, Borve,</td><td valign="top">Barra,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_95">95</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" class="pddtp">(<i>D</i>) <span class="smcap">Churches with pointed or late features.</span></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Catan’s, Gigha,</td><td valign="top">Kintyre,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_95">95</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Kildalton,</td><td valign="top">Islay,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_96">96</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Kilnaughton,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_96">96</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Kilneave,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_96">96</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Kilchieran,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_96">96</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Ninian’s, Sanda,</td><td valign="top">Kintyre,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_97">97</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Columba’s Isle,</td><td valign="top">Lewis,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_97">97</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Pennygowan,</td><td valign="top">Mull,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_98">98</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Laggan,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_98">98</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Inchkenneth,</td><td valign="top">Ulva,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_98">98</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Moluac,</td><td valign="top">Raasay,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_98">98</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Killean,</td><td valign="top">Kintyre,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_98">98</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Kilbride,</td><td valign="top">Knapdale,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_98">98</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Eorrapidh,</td><td valign="top">Lewis,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_99">99</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Olrig,</td><td valign="top">Caithness,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_99">99</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Kilchieven or Kilcoiven,</td><td valign="top">Kintyre,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_100">100</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="3" class="c">CHURCHES IN ORKNEY AND SHETLAND.</th></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="3" class="c"><span class="smcap">Drawn and described by Sir Henry Dryden, Bart.</span></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Chapel on the Brough of Deerness,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_101">101</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Chapel on the North Shore of Head of Holland,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_105">105</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Halcro Chapel,</td><td valign="top">South Ronaldshay,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_105">105</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Tredwell’s Chapel,</td><td valign="top">Papa Westray,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_106">106</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">Church at Swendro,</td><td valign="top">Rousay,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_108">108</a></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top">St. Ola,</td><td valign="top">Kirkwall,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_109">109</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th valign="top" colspan="3"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xii" id="page_xii">{xii}</a></span> -<span class="smcap">Churches of type containing Chancel and Nave.</span></th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Church on the Island of Wyre,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_113">113</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Church on the Island of Enhallow,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_116">116</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Chapel at Linton, Shapinsay,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_122">122</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Chapel in Westray,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_124">124</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Church on Island of Egilsey,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_127">127</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Church on Brough of Birsay,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_135">135</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Church at Orphir,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_141">141</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th valign="top" colspan="3"><span class="smcap">Churches in Shetland</span> (<a href="#page_145">145</a>).</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Chapel of Noss,</td><td valign="top">Bressay,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_146">146</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kirkaby, Westing,</td><td valign="top">Unst,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_147">147</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Meal, Colvidale,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_148">148</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. John’s Kirk, Norwick,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_148">148</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Church at Uya,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_149">149</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kirk of Ness,</td><td valign="top">North Yell,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_151">151</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Church at Culbinsbrough,</td><td valign="top">Bressay,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_157">157</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">General Characteristics,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_159">159</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Monuments,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_160">160</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Proportions,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_161">161</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Dates,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_162">162</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Chapel at Lybster, Reay, Caithness,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_162">162</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Chapel, Effigy, and Cross on Inch Kenneth, Mull, Argyleshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_165">165</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c">TRANSITION FROM CELTIC TO NORMAN ARCHITECTURE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Abernethy Round Tower, Perthshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_175">175</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Restennet Priory, Forfarshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_178">178</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">St. Regulus’, or St. Rule’s, St. Andrews, Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_185">185</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c">NORMAN ARCHITECTURE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Markinch Tower,</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_193">193</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Muthill Church,</td><td valign="top">Perthshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_196">196</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Serf’s, Dunning,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_204">204</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Cruggleton Church,</td><td valign="top">Wigtonshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_212">212</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Monymusk Church,</td><td valign="top">Aberdeenshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_215">215</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Brandon’s, Birnie,</td><td valign="top">Morayshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_218">218</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Oran’s Chapel, Iona,</td><td valign="top">Argyleshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_220">220</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top" colspan="2">Chapel in Edinburgh Castle (St. Margaret’s Chapel),</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_224">224</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Dunfermline Abbey,</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_230">230</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xiii" id="page_xiii">{xiii}</a></span> -St. Magnus’ Cathedral, Kirkwall,</td><td valign="top">Orkney, Dunfermline Abbey,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_259">259</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Blane’s Church,</td><td valign="top">Buteshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_292">292</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Dalmeny Church,</td><td valign="top">Linlithgowshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_298">298</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Leuchars Church,</td><td valign="top">Fifeshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_309">309</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Bunkle Church,</td><td valign="top">Berwickshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_314">314</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Edrom Church,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_316">316</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Legerwood Church,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_320">320</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Chirnside Church,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_322">322</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Helen’s Church,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_323">323</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Tynninghame Church,</td><td valign="top">Haddingtonshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Stobo Church,</td><td valign="top">Peeblesshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_329">329</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Duddingston Church,</td><td valign="top">Mid-Lothian,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_333">333</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Andrew’s, Gullane,</td><td valign="top">Haddingtonshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_339">339</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Uphall Church and St. Nicholas’,</td><td valign="top">Strathbroc, Linlithgowshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_342">342</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Abercorn Church,</td><td valign="top">Linlithgowshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_346">346</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kelso Abbey,</td><td valign="top">Roxburghshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_347">347</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Martin’s Church,</td><td valign="top">Haddington,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_362">362</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kirkliston Church,</td><td valign="top">Linlithgowshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_366">366</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Mary’s, Ratho,</td><td valign="top">Mid-Lothian,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_371">371</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Peter’s, Peterhead,</td><td valign="top">Aberdeenshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_371">371</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Mary’s, Rutherglen,</td><td valign="top">Lanarkshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_372">372</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Lamington Church,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_376">376</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Boswells Church,</td><td valign="top">Roxburghshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_377">377</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Smailholm Church,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_378">378</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Linton Church,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_379">379</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Duns Church,</td><td valign="top">Berwickshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_381">381</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Lawrence, Lundie,</td><td valign="top">Forfarshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_382">382</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kirkmaiden Church,</td><td valign="top">Wigtonshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_383">383</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Herdmanston Font,</td><td valign="top">Haddingtonshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_384">384</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2">THE TRANSITION STYLE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Dundrennan Abbey,</td><td valign="top">Kirkcudbrightshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_388">388</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Jedburgh Abbey,</td><td valign="top">Roxburghshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_398">398</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Kinloss Abbey,</td><td valign="top">Morayshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_416">416</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The Nunnery, Iona,</td><td valign="top">Argyleshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_421">421</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">St. Nicholas’,</td><td valign="top">Aberdeen,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_426">426</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Coldingham Priory,</td><td valign="top">Berwickshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_437">437</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Dryburgh Abbey,</td><td valign="top">Do.,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_448">448</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Airth Church,</td><td valign="top">Stirlingshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_465">465</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Lasswade Church,</td><td valign="top">Mid-Lothian,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_471">471</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Bathgate Church,</td><td valign="top">Linlithgowshire,</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_474">474</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xiv" id="page_xiv">{xiv}</a></span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_1" id="page_1">{1}</a></span> </p> - -<h2><a name="THE_ECCLESIASTICAL_ARCHITECTURE_OF_SCOTLAND" id="THE_ECCLESIASTICAL_ARCHITECTURE_OF_SCOTLAND"></a>THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND<br /><br /> -<small>FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE REFORMATION.</small></h2> - -<h3>INTRODUCTION.</h3> - -<p><span class="smcap">Among</span> the various branches of Mediæval Art in Europe, the Church -Architecture of Scotland fills an interesting and valuable place. This -country cannot claim to have originated a new style in the sense in -which the Ile de France gave birth to pointed Gothic, but it can show a -continuous series of Christian structures, beginning with the primitive -cells and oratories of the early Anchorites, and extending through all -the periods of Mediæval Art.</p> - -<p>Two distinct phases of artistic development are exemplified in the -History of Scotland—the first comprises the rise and decline of Celtic -Art in early Christian times, and the second is allied to the various -stages of general European culture.</p> - -<p>Of the former period abundant illustrations exist in the almost -prehistoric examples of Celtic structures of early Christian recluses, -together with specimens of round towers and innumerable sculptured -memorials and crosses, somewhat similar to those found in Ireland. These -indicate the intimate connection which formerly existed with that -country, whence Scotland derived her name, as well as her early -instruction in religion.</p> - -<p>The round towers and sculptured monuments are followed by primitive -examples of Norman work, pointing to the direction from which the later -phases of religious and artistic development in the country took their -origin. The Saxon and Norman influence of the eleventh century produced -a complete revolution in the artistic elements of the country, and led -to a full development of the Romanesque or Norman style of -architecture—a style similar to the round arched architecture of other -countries of Europe in the twelfth century. Of this new departure the -signs are still visible in the numerous remains of Norman structures -which are spread over the country. These consist chiefly of small parish -churches,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_2" id="page_2">{2}</a></span> but they also include some large and elaborate buildings, -almost entirely monastic, and one cathedral.</p> - -<p>The succeeding Gothic styles are also well represented in Scotland, and -include a great variety of churches, monasteries, and cathedrals. These -exhibit many fine examples of the various styles of Gothic art, and, -although comprising certain local peculiarities, show a general -correspondence with the arts of the different periods in France and -England.</p> - -<p>The “first pointed” style is fully represented in Scotland during the -thirteenth century; but, owing to the disastrous situation of the -country during the fourteenth century, the number of “decorated” -buildings is comparatively small.</p> - -<p>During the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the “perpendicular” -style prevailed in England and the “Flamboyant” in France, the -architecture of Scotland was distinguished by a style peculiar to the -country, in which many features derived from both the above styles may -be detected.</p> - -<p>While the Mediæval Architecture of Scotland thus corresponds on the -whole with that of the rest of Europe, there exists in the Ecclesiology -of the country an amount of native development sufficient to give it a -special value as one of the exponents of the art of the Middle Ages. Its -buildings further contribute largely to the illustration of the history -of the country by showing in their remains the condition and growth of -its religious ideas and observances at different epochs, and the manner -in which its civilisation advanced. We observe striking evidences of the -Irish influence in the relics of the primitive Celtic Church. The Norman -and Early English influences are clearly traceable up to the invasion of -Edward <small>I.</small>, and the political and commercial connection with France and -the Netherlands is distinctly observable in the period of the Jameses.</p> - -<p>Till comparatively modern times the early history of Scotland was -involved in obscurity, but much light has within recent years been -thrown upon it by the works of Robertson, Skene, and others. The -religious and political conditions of the country have now been placed -upon a reliable historical basis, while its archæology has been -expounded in the works of the late Sir Daniel Wilson, and those of Dr. -Joseph Anderson and Mr. J. Romilly Allen. The numerous prehistoric -monuments of Scotland have been collected by the late Dr. John Stuart, -in his great work on the Sculptured Stories, and the Sepulchral Slabs of -the West Highlands have been beautifully illustrated by the late James -Drummond, R.S.A.</p> - -<p>A wide field has been explored through the patient and devoted labours -of the late T. S. Muir, by his searching out the architectural fragments -scattered over the land, and especially by bringing to light many -unknown examples of the retreats and primitive oratories of the early -Anchorites which still exist in the remote and in many cases uninhabited -islands of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_3" id="page_3">{3}</a></span> West. Similar explorations have been accomplished by Sir -Henry Dryden in Orkney and Shetland, and by Captain White and Captain -Thomas in Kintyre and the Hebrides. To all these authors we are indebted -for much valuable information and guidance, as will appear in the -following pages.</p> - -<p>The structures and monuments of the early Celtic inhabitants of Scotland -have formed the special subject of careful investigation by Dr. Joseph -Anderson, and the exposition of the history of the remarkable and -previously mysterious Sculptured Stones has been successfully -accomplished by him in his lectures on Scotland in early Christian -times. In these lectures he has not only clearly explained the origin -and significance of these monuments and their order of succession, but -he has extended his view over the whole field of Celtic culture, both in -this country and in Ireland, and has explained the relations of its -different phases to one another, thus disclosing the unity and beauty of -that remarkable and independent development of art culture which existed -in these countries from the sixth to the twelfth centuries.</p> - -<p>We have also the benefit of Dr. Reeves’ and Dr. Petrie’s well-known -works on Irish History and Archæology, and the magnificent volumes of -Lord Dunraven on Early Irish Architecture, so ably edited by Miss -Stokes. In the following introductory sketch of the Early History and -Artistic Development of Scotland, free use has been made of the above -and other works, in order to place before the reader a continuous -account of the religious and artistic progress of the country from the -earliest dawn of Christianity till the great Revolution of the sixteenth -century, which severed the connection between mediæval and modern times.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>The earliest trace of Christianity in Scotland is connected with the -founding of a church, the name of which still survives in a structure of -a much later date. This primitive church was erected by St. Ninian, a -Briton, who seems to have settled in the end of the fourth century -amongst the Picts, on the south coast of Galloway, with the view of -there maintaining the Christian faith already introduced by the Romans.</p> - -<p>St. Ninian is said to have studied in Rome, and, on his return journey, -to have visited St. Martin, at Tours, who supplied him with masons to -assist in the erection of a church, built of stone, in the Roman manner. -This was known as the <i>Candida Casa</i> (now Whithorn), which was built -about the year 412, and dedicated to St. Martin of Tours. It became a -great school of instruction in Christian doctrine,<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> but after a time -the Christianity of this locality appears to have died out, or was -transferred to Ireland. It is believed that some of the emissaries from -this school in the fifth century may be traced in the dedications of -churches amongst the Picts, as, for example, St. Ternan, at -Banchory-Ternan; St. Mocholmoc,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_4" id="page_4">{4}</a></span> at Inchmahome; and St. Fillan, at the -place named after him on Loch Earn. At Abernethy, in Perthshire, King -Nectan is said to have been raised from the dead by St. Bœthius or -Buitte, who came from Ireland, accompanied by St. Bridget and her ten -virgins. The Saint, as a reward for his miracle, was presented with the -fortress which existed at the place, just as the Irish ecclesiastics -were established (as will be pointed out) by the chiefs in their raths -or strongholds.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> This king also built a church at Abernethy in honour -of St. Bridget (about 480)—a foundation which afterwards became famous.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_1" id="fig_1"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_004.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_004.png" width="411" height="301" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>—Early Crosses near Whithorn.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It tends to confirm the truth of the early mission of St. Ninian to the -Southern Picts, that the monumental stones which still survive in that -region are engraved with incised crosses of the oldest form, and are -accompanied with inscriptions in debased Roman capital letters, -containing the formula “hic jacet”—all marks which indicate a very -early date.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Such are the crosses near Whithorn and those at -Kirkmadrine, in a neighbouring parish, which all bear the simple cross -with equal arms enclosed in a circle,<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> and contain the chi-rho symbol. -(<a href="#fig_1">Fig. 1.</a>)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_5" id="page_5">{5}</a></span></p> - -<p>It should further be noted that on the south coast of the Bay of Luce, -not far from Whithorn, there exists a cave in the rocks which is -believed to have been the retreat of an early Anchorite, perhaps of St. -Ninian himself. Numerous crosses of early type, incised on the rocky -walls and on the steps of a short stair leading down to the cave, prove -that it has been occupied for religious purposes at an early date;<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> -while on the Isle of Whithorn are the ruins of a church, which may -possibly occupy the site of the original <i>Candida Casa</i> of St. -Ninian.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> - -<p>Another cave in the rocks on the shore of the opposite side of the Bay -of Luce, still known as St. Medan’s Cave,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> has also apparently served -as the abode of an Anchorite. It consists, like the retreat of St. -Cuthbert at Farne (to be afterwards described), of an oratory and an -outer apartment for ordinary uses.</p> - -<p>Numerous similar caves, which have been used for the like sacred -purpose, are still to be found in many parts of the country, -particularly on the West Coast.</p> - -<p>After the decadence of the School of <i>Candida Casa</i>, Christianity in -Scotland seems to have been in abeyance, till it was revived in the -sixth century by the arrival of fresh light and energy from Ireland. -From that period till the twelfth century the religion and culture of -Scotland were entirely derived from that country. It is therefore -necessary, in order to follow the origin and development of ecclesiology -and art in Scotland, to trace generally their history in Ireland, and to -mark the influence of the latter country on the former.</p> - -<p>Owing to the disturbed state of Britain after the withdrawal of the -Romans in the beginning of the fifth century, and the eruptions of the -Goths in Gaul, many Christian refugees found their way to Ireland. -Christianity was thus introduced, and, during the fifth century, spread -rapidly under the instructions of St. Palladius, a reputed emissary of -Rome, and St. Patrick, the patron Saint of Ireland. At first the Church -seems to have assumed a peculiar collegiate form, consisting of groups -of seven bishops placed together in one church; but in the sixth century -the monastic rules were introduced, and at once took root and spread -with wonderful rapidity amongst the various tribes. Under St. Finnian, -after a short time, there are said to have been three thousand monks in -the monastic school of Clonard. Columba, one of his twelve disciples, -born in 521, founded several monasteries in Ireland, amongst others -those of Derry and Kells, Raphoe in Donegal, and Durrow in Meath.</p> - -<p>In 558 the great monastery of Bangor was founded by St. Comgall,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_6" id="page_6">{6}</a></span> one of -Columba’s companions, and is said to have contained thousands of -monks.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p> - -<p>These monasteries were tribal institutions, and were well suited to the -social relations of the country. The abbots were connected with the -leading families of the tribes, and succeeded one another according to -the rules of succession which prevailed amongst the chiefs. Many of the -monasteries were established with the consent of the chiefs, and it -frequently happened that on such occasions a “rath,” or native fortress, -was presented to the founder by the head of the tribe, as a place of -security in which his monastic dwellings might be erected.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> These -structures were generally of a slight and simple nature, consisting of -huts made of branches or wattles, covered with turf or clay. The -churches or oratories were also constructed with wood. The whole -establishment seems to have resembled the primitive fortresses of the -Celts, consisting of a great enclosing wall or rampart, with temporary -erections within. At a later time wooden boards were substituted for -wattles, and the roofs were covered with thatch. Dr. Reeves states that -St. Palladius erected three churches of oak, while St. Patrick is said -to have built one with stone, because no wood was to be found in the -locality.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p> - -<p>The practice of building with wood was the favourite one amongst the -“Scots”<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> in Ireland, and we shall find further examples amongst their -disciples both in Scotland and England. Dr. Reeves states that the -“Scotic” attachment to wooden churches continued in Ireland till the -twelfth century, and that although stone churches existed, they were -regarded as of foreign introduction. These wooden structures, it is -needless to remark, have all long since disappeared, having been -replaced by more permanent edifices.</p> - -<p>Although building with wattles and wood was the usual form of -construction in Ireland in the early centuries, it was not the only one. -When monasteries were established (as above mentioned) within the -“raths” or fortresses by the chiefs, certain native forms of building in -stone were found to exist in connection with these structures.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_7" id="page_7">{7}</a></span> -rath was invariably surrounded with a lofty wall of great thickness, -composed of unhewn stones mingled with earth. The exterior face of the -wall was carefully built with “headers,” and in many instances chambers -were constructed in the thickness of the wall, and roofed with -overlapping stones in the form of an arch, but without the radiating -structure of a true arch.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> Chambers of similar construction are also -often found in the walls of the brochs, and in the Eirde houses and -other Celtic structures in Scotland.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_2" id="fig_2"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_007.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_007.png" width="325" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>—Beehive Cell on Skellig Mhichel. (From <i>Scotland -in Early Christian Times</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Besides the great “cashel” or enclosing rampart, other stone buildings -existed within the rath. These consisted of circular or oval huts, built -with unhewn stones without mortar. They are generally about 6 to 10 feet -in diameter, and the interior has sometimes square angles. The walls are -3 to 4 feet in thickness, and rise perpendicularly to about 6 feet in -height, when they begin to converge towards the centre, the stones -overlapping as they rise with a curve till they nearly meet, when the -aperture is covered in on top with flagstones. The external appearance -of these primitive abodes presents a domed form like that of a beehive,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_8" id="page_8">{8}</a></span> -from which circumstance they are called “beehive huts” (<a href="#fig_2">Fig. 2</a>). There -is invariably a small doorway about 4 feet high, with a straight lintel -on top, and the jambs are always built, not perpendicularly, but with an -inclination inwards as they rise. A small square opening in the roof, -greatly splayed towards the interior, forms the window of the hut. Stone -structures of this description were common in certain parts of Ireland -in Pagan times.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> These were the native originals from which the Irish -monks derived the style of stone building which was afterwards adopted -by them in certain localities, with modifications as time progressed.</p> - -<p>The Celtic monks of the early centuries showed a strong predilection for -islands as the sites of their monasteries. Almost every loch and river -show evidence of this choice in the ruins scattered over the country, -and some small detached and rocky islands situated a few miles from the -West Coast of Ireland (where they have been little exposed to -disturbance) yet contain specimens of the above primitive structures. -The great enclosing cashels and the singular beehive huts have been -beautifully illustrated and described in the splendid work of the late -Lord Dunraven on Ancient Irish Architecture, edited by Miss Stokes.</p> - -<p>It was one of the peculiarities of the Irish monastic system to -encourage the members to retire occasionally for a lengthened period to -some solitary place, where they might do penance and worship -undisturbed. These places of retreat were called “deserts,” and were -sought for in the uninhabited and rocky islands lying at a distance from -the mainland. It is surmised that the islands of St. Michael, Ardoilean, -and others in a similar position off the West Coast of Ireland, -containing monastic remains, were retreats of this description.</p> - -<p>We have seen that these establishments exhibit in their beehive huts and -cashels the tradition of the native Pagan style of building derived from -the raths of the converted chiefs. In addition to these primitive -erections, they further contain evidences of certain structural elements -imported in connection with the introduction of Christianity.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> For, -besides the circular cells of the monks, they invariably comprise one or -more small churches or oratories. These are structurally distinguished -by having square angles on plan, both externally and internally, and by -having the joints of the stones generally cemented with a certain amount -of mortar. The roofs were constructed like those of the huts, with -overlapping stones carried up with a curve to a pointed ridge. These -churches are of small dimensions, and form a simple oblong chamber set -with its greater length towards the east and west. They have a small -door in the west end with inclined jambs and straight lintel, and a -small square-headed window to the east. The above Christian form of -church was, however, not fully adopted at first, many of the early<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_9" id="page_9">{9}</a></span> -Irish churches retaining the native form of construction—<i>i.e.</i>, the -walls, both of sides and ends, rise in a curve from the foundation to -the ridge of the roof, which is formed of overlapping stones, and the -whole presents the appearance of an inverted boat with a sharp keel. -These churches are built with dry stones, carefully constructed.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> -They are often associated with pillar stones, inscribed with crosses and -inscriptions in Roman letters of the most ancient form,<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> and are -supposed to be of the age of the Saints whose names they bear, dating -from the fifth to the seventh centuries.<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> They were succeeded in the -seventh and eighth centuries by a somewhat more advanced type, forming a -transition from the dry-built and rough stone structures to buildings -cemented with mortar, and having the stones dressed. To these were added -chancels in the ninth and tenth centuries, having radiating chancel -arches, which are invariably semi-circular, and have inclined jambs. The -church of St. Kevin at Glendalough presents a good example of a chancel -added to a primitive single-chambered church. Ornament was gradually -introduced, but the Irish characteristic of the stone roof, supported on -an arch, was retained in small structures up to the twelfth century. As -time progressed the original overlapping form of arch was superseded by -the true radiating arch. In the case of the larger churches, however, -the roof seems generally to have been constructed with wooden rafters -and shingles.<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></p> - -<p>The radiating arch appears to have been introduced about the same time -as the chancel, and was by degrees applied both to doors and windows, -but the sloping form of the jambs continued in use till the introduction -of the Norman style.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a></p> - -<p>The religious enthusiasm which pervaded the Irish monasteries was very -great, and displayed itself in the numerous offshoots and missions which -they sent out, not only to the neighbouring countries of England and -Scotland, but also to Gaul, Switzerland, Germany, and Italy. Rude and -primitive as were their dwellings, the Celtic monks excelled in several -departments of art and literature. Their chronicles of events are almost -our only guide to the history of the country in those early times, and -the writings and illuminations of their religious books are marvels of -beautiful caligraphy and design. The forms and features of their -drawings and illuminations are of a marked and special character, and -are found prominently displayed not only in their MSS., but on all -objects of Celtic production, such as gold and silver ornaments and -shrines, and the sculptured crosses and architectural enrichments of a -somewhat later date.<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a></p> - -<p>The earliest stone monuments in Ireland consist, as in Scotland, of rude -pillar stones, bearing plain incised crosses, accompanied with -inscriptions in debased Roman capitals. These are succeeded by -sepulchral<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_10" id="page_10">{10}</a></span> slabs, shaped and dressed, which were laid flat over the -graves, and were carved with various forms of the cross extending over -the entire surface, and sometimes covered with interlacing ornament. But -the upright cross-bearing slabs, which we shall find are so common in -Scotland, were almost unknown in Ireland. At Clonmacnoise there are 179 -of these recumbent cross-bearing slabs, the ascertained dates of which -extend from 628 to 1278; of these only sixty-seven bear any ornament -except the cross. The earliest with ornament dates from 806, and many -others belong to the ninth, tenth, and eleventh centuries.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> Free -standing crosses of fine design are also numerous in Ireland. They are -generally covered with pictorial sculpture of Scriptural subjects; they -date from the tenth to the twelfth centuries. They usually bear on the -obverse a representation of the Crucifixion,<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> and on the reverse a -figure of Christ in glory. These sculptures occupy the principal place -at the junction of the arms with the upright shaft, and the remainder of -the cross contains figure subjects, arranged in panels, representing -events symbolical of the Redemption, and leading the mind up to the -principal subject. Amongst the most common are the Temptation of Adam -and Eve, the Sacrifice of Isaac, Jonah and the Whale, Daniel in the -Lions’ Den, &c.</p> - -<p>Symbolic sculptures, representing hunting scenes, grotesque animals, -&c., so common on the Scottish monuments, are also occasionally found on -the Irish crosses, but do not occur so frequently as on the former. The -peculiar and unexplained symbols so universally found on the Scottish -monuments are, however, entirely absent from those of Ireland.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>Amongst the earliest fields in which the energy and enterprise of the -Irish monastic missionaries found an outlet were naturally the adjoining -lands of Kintyre and the islands on the West Coast of Scotland. From the -beginning of the sixth century an emigration had been going on from -Dalriada, in Ulster, to these regions, and settlements had been formed -and a large part of the country taken possession of, extending as far -north as Mull, and including part of the mainland of Argyll. In 560, -however, Brude, King of the Northern Picts, led an expedition against -the invaders, and drove them back from most of their possessions. A -desire to retrieve this reverse, combined with zeal to spread the -benefits of religion amongst the heathen Picts, is supposed to have led -to St. Columba’s mission, and to the foundation of the Monastic Church -in Scotland. In 563 St. Columba, with twelve disciples, sailed from -Ireland for Dalriada, in Scotland. After visiting some of the islands -and founding a cave-chapel at Loch Coalisport, which is still traceable, -he finally, with consent of the Picts, settled at Iona. There he found a -remnant of an early Church of Secular Bishops, but they yielded to the -stronger monastic element now prevailing.<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_11" id="page_11">{11}</a></span></p> - -<p>The monastery founded by Columba at Iona was of the ordinary style of -the Irish establishments above described. Adamnan, in his <i>Life of -Columba</i>, mentions that the buildings were constructed with wattles and -turf, and the roofs covered with thatch. Besides the church and the huts -for the brethren, there was a special cell for the abbot, a larger hut -for a refectory, and another for strangers. The whole was enclosed, as -usual, with a high wall or rampart. About a century after Columba’s time -some improvement seems to have been made on the rude system of building -with wattles. Adamnan, who lived about that date, describes how, in -renewing the structures of the monastery, oak boards were used, and the -roof was covered with thatch.</p> - -<p>The Church established in Iona followed the example of its Irish -founders, and sent out missionaries in all directions. In 565 St. -Columba visited King Brude in his stronghold on the river Ness, and -succeeded in converting the king and the Northern Picts. This mission -seems to have been partly political, as it was also successful in -establishing the Irish colony of Dalriada in possession of its territory -under its own king.<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> During the sixth century numerous churches were -founded throughout Scotland and in the Western Islands by St. Columba -and his companions, St. Brendan, St. Comgall, and St. Cainnech,<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> -whose names still survive in the dedications of many of these -structures.</p> - -<p>The Pictish King Brude was succeeded by King Gartnaid, who fixed his -royal seat at Abernethy, in Perthshire. There he is said to have built a -monastery (580-590) and dedicated it to St. Bridget, to whom, as we have -seen, an earlier church had been dedicated in the same locality. St. -Cainnech is said to have established himself in a “desert” at Kilrimont -(St. Andrews),<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> thus indicating the early foundation of these -well-known religious sites. The Cumbrian Church was also founded about -this time at Glasgow by St. Kentigern, a friend of Columba’s. St. -Columba died in 597, and, after his death, Iona was acknowledged as the -head of all the churches and monasteries which had been established in -Scotland.</p> - -<p>But the influence of this Church soon spread beyond the boundaries of -that kingdom. Oswald, son of Aidilfrid, having been driven from -Northumbria, found refuge in Iona, and there acquired a knowledge of -religion and literature. Having regained his throne, he sent, in 635, to -Iona for monks to introduce the Christian faith amongst his people. St. -Aidan was the first of these missionaries sent, and, with the king’s -consent, he fixed his monastery on the island of Lindisfarne. He also -founded monasteries at Old Melrose and Coldingham, then within the -bounds of Northumbria. It was to the Columban Church thus established -that the Angles between the Humber and the Forth owed their permanent -conversion to Christianity. After a time St. Aidan was succeeded by St. -Cuthbert, who continued and extended this pious work. But after being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_12" id="page_12">{12}</a></span> -twelve years in charge of Lindisfarne, St. Cuthbert retired, like so -many of the same monastic school, to a “desert” or hermitage, situated -on the solitary island of Farne, more distant from the mainland than -Lindisfarne. Here he erected his hermit’s cell, the account of which, -given by Bede,<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> is most interesting, as it so fully explains the -nature of such structures. The enclosure was circular, and about 4 or 5 -perches in diameter. Externally the wall was about the height of a man, -but in the interior somewhat higher, owing to the soil and rock having -been excavated. The wall was composed of massive unwrought stones and -turf. The enclosure contained a dwelling-place divided into two parts, -one being an oratory and the other a room suitable for common uses. The -roof was formed of rough beams and thatched with straw. At the -landing-place outside the enclosure a large house was erected to give -shelter to the monks when they visited the hermit. Although called for a -time to the Bishopric of Lindisfarne, St. Cuthbert again retired to his -hermitage, and there expired <small>A.D.</small> 687.</p> - -<p>When the Columban Church had existed in Northumbria for about thirty -years, new influences arose, before which that monastic form gradually -declined. The principal of these influences came from the South, and was -part of that steady pressure from Rome which by degrees brought all -Churches into uniformity of doctrine and observance. England was to a -great extent the spiritual child of Rome, having been reconverted to the -faith by the direct intervention of the Pope after the desolation caused -by the heathen Danes. This was accomplished by the mission of St. -Augustine, who was sent by Pope Gregory to England in 596 for the -reformation of religion. The ecclesiastics from Rome brought with them -the Roman forms and observances and the Roman mode of building. Thus St. -Augustine, so soon as he was established in Kent, set about the -erection, at Canterbury, of a cathedral, with two towers attached to the -nave and a circular baptistry, in imitation of St. Peter’s at Rome. -Other instances occur of the introduction of building with stone after -the Roman manner. Bede describes how Benedict Biscop, in 676, brought -masons from Gaul to carry out buildings in stone, and how the churches -of St. Peter at Monkwearmouth, and St. Paul at Jarrow, were erected by -Benedict Biscop (670-80) with stone, “according to the manner of the -Romans.” Bede further mentions that Nectan, King of the Northern Picts, -sought, in 710, for masons to be sent to him from Monkwearmouth, who -should build churches for him according to the fashion of the Romans.</p> - -<p>St. Winifred, Bishop of York, the great opponent of the Columbans in -Northumbria, had also erected stone churches in the seventh century -after the Roman manner at Hexham, York, and Ripon.</p> - -<p>Northumbria was at this period (during the seventh and part of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_13" id="page_13">{13}</a></span> -eighth centuries) the most powerful and advanced portion of England. It -was the nursery of learning and poetry, the home of Bede and Caedmon. -Religion also flourished, as is proved by the remains of the -pre-Conquest churches which still survive.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> Many of these show traces -of the works of the ancient Romans in the country, being built, partly -at least, with Roman wrought stones from the ruins in the district. The -influence of the Columban period is observable in the numerous crosses -carved with Celtic work which still survive in Northumbria.</p> - -<p>The pre-Norman churches have some peculiarities. They are remarkable for -the height of the walls, as compared with the width of the building. -Thus at Monkwearmouth and Jarrow (erected by Benedict Biscop in the -seventh century), the width of the nave is 18 feet, while the height of -the walls is 30 feet. The carved lacertine figures of the porch at -Monkwearmouth have likewise a Celtic character. Square towers at the -west end of the nave form common features of these churches, and the -jambs of the doors and windows are often inclining, like those of -Ireland. Some of these features may be observed in one or two of our -Scottish churches, such as that of St. Regulus at St. Andrews and -Restenot Priory.</p> - -<p>As the Roman influence prevailed, that of the Columbans waned, till, -finally, that of Rome was, after the Synod of Whitby in 664, definitely -adopted, and the Columbans were driven off. After the expulsion of the -Columbans from Northumbria, the Roman forms and observances were -gradually extended over the southern parts of Scotland, then included in -the dominions of Oswy, King of Northumbria. Various circumstances tended -to aid this process. When the victory of the Picts at Dunichen, in 685, -terminated the rule of the Angles in Scotland, Nectan, king of the -Celtic kingdom, was brought into contact with the Roman missionaries, -whom he found in his extended southern provinces, and became, in 710, a -convert to their ideas. He seems to have warmly espoused their cause, -and desired that their rules and forms should be universally adopted -throughout his kingdom. But the Columbans still clinging to their own -observances, King Nectan at length, in 717, issued a decree, expelling -from his dominions all ecclesiastics who refused to conform to the Roman -practices.</p> - -<p>Up to this period there had been an increasing tendency to asceticism in -the Columban Church, leading the monks to forsake the cœnobitical or -monastic life in common, and to adopt that of the hermit or Anchorite. -This had the effect of breaking up the monastic system which had -hitherto succeeded so well amongst the Celtic tribes of Ireland and -Scotland, and also tended to encourage the introduction of the secular -hierarchy of the Roman system.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a></p> - -<p>The hermits were known on the Continent as Deicolæ, or Worshippers<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_14" id="page_14">{14}</a></span> of -God, and in this country by the title of Keledei or Culdees. The similar -order which arose in the Celtic Church afterwards played an important -part in Scottish ecclesiastical matters. They first appear in Scotland -after the expulsion of the Columbans—the establishment of St. Serf on -an island in Lochleven being of this school.</p> - -<p>The Deicolæ were organised in 747 as an order of Secular Canons with the -object of bringing the secular clergy into a cœnobitical life, so as to -help to counteract the then prevailing tendency to the eremitical mode -of living. The nature of the structures erected under the latter form of -religious observance is well illustrated in the cells and oratories -already alluded to, which were erected in such numbers on the lonely and -deserted islands on the West Coasts of Ireland and Scotland.</p> - -<p>The advent of the Roman emissaries in Scotland is embodied in several -mythical legends. Such is the story of the arrival of St. Boniface with -a complete following of persons representing all the offices of the -Roman service, and his favourable reception by King Nectan indicates the -goodwill with which they were welcomed.<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> The dedications of churches -to St. Peter, superseding the dedication to the ancient native Saints, -further mark the change from Iona to Rome.</p> - -<p>The assimilation of the Church to the Roman system, and the introduction -of the secular clergy, led in Scotland, as it had done in Northumbria, -to the secularisation of the monasteries. Through the operation of the -Celtic rules of succession they fell into the hands of laymen, who -retained the title of abbot, and with it the possession of the monastic -lands, but without any pretence to clerical office.<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> The old Celtic -system of monasticism thus perished, first, from internal decay and -change to the eremitical system; and, second, from its being gradually -superseded by the introduction of the secular clergy on the Roman -system.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile at Iona, and in all the Western Islands and coasts, a new -enemy to the Columban establishments sprung up. In 794 the Northern -Rovers made their first appearance, and during many succeeding years the -monastery of Iona was frequently attacked and pillaged, the monks being -slain or driven to seek safety in Ireland. The connection between -Ireland and Scotland was thus almost entirely severed during the ninth -century, and the Columbans having (as above stated) been expelled from -the Pictish kingdom, the previous active relations between the Church in -the two countries was for the time entirely brought to a close.</p> - -<p>In Alban or Pictland a revolution seems to have occurred about the year -850, and Kenneth M‘Alpine, a king of the Scotic race, ascended the -throne of the Picts. By him an effort was made to re-establish the -Columban Church. For this purpose he erected a chief religious centre at -Dunkeld, and brought to it some of the relics of St. Columba, with the -view of making it an inland Iona. However, in the latter half of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_15" id="page_15">{15}</a></span> the -ninth century, the see of the primacy was removed to Abernethy, in -Perthshire. Here, Cellach, Abbot of Kildare and also of Iona, had sought -refuge from the persecution of the Norsemen in Ireland, and there he -died in 865. Irish clergy who had returned to Scotland are thus found at -this period at Abernethy, and Dr. Skene supposes that the round tower -which still stands there was probably erected about this date.<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> The -increasing strength of the Roman influence may be gathered from the fact -that in 878-89 King Giric is said to have “given liberty to the Scottish -Church;” the meaning of which is, that he decreed that all church lands -should be free from secular exactions.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> In 908 the primacy was -transferred to St. Andrews, and Cellach was appointed first Bishop of -Alban.<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> A church was founded at Brechin about the year 1000, and was -dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It was probably a monastery after the -Irish model, with a College of Culdees. The round tower there is a mark -of its early association with Ireland.</p> - -<p>The Culdees long continued to assert their position and maintain their -rights, but they became gradually absorbed into the cathedral chapters -established in the country. We thus finally arrive at the period when, -in the eleventh century, the adoption of the Roman system in Scotland, -under Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret, was completed.</p> - -<p>We have now followed the history of the Church in Scotland up to the -point where the two streams of influence we have been observing, one -from Ireland and the other from Rome through England, meet. We have -noticed the powerful influence of the former in imparting to Scotland, -under the Columban system, its early rudiments of education, religion, -and art. Although this phase of culture did not display itself -prominently in architectural results, yet there are other departments in -which it excelled. It is to it we are indebted for the beautiful -examples of caligraphy and decorated metal work of which the relics are -preserved in the MSS., shrines, croziers, and ornaments of the Celtic -race.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a></p> - -<p>The marvellous sculptured ornaments and crosses in which Scotland still -abounds are also relics of the culture and artistic elements introduced -by the missionaries from Ireland. These features of Celtic art form one -of the most remarkable series of monuments in any country.</p> - -<p>In Ireland, as we have already seen, this monumental art is chiefly -exhibited in the recumbent cross-bearing slabs at Clonmacnoise and other -ecclesiastical sites, while its later development assumes the form of -free standing crosses of the Celtic pattern carved with the interlacing -ornaments<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_16" id="page_16">{16}</a></span> characteristic of the style, or with figure sculptures -enclosed in panels, each panel representing a Scriptural or symbolic -subject.</p> - -<p>The Scottish sculptured monuments, although bearing a general -resemblance to the Irish, have several peculiarities. The earliest form -of sculptured monuments in Scotland, as in the other Celtic divisions of -Britain, consists of rude upright stones, engraved with an equal-armed -cross enclosed in a circle, accompanied with an inscription in debased -Roman capital letters, generally comprising the formula “hic jacet” and -the chi-rho symbol. The carving is invariably incised in the stone. We -have already met with examples of this class of monument, probably of -the fifth century, in the South-West of Scotland, in connection with the -<i>Candida Casa</i> of St. Ninian. (See <a href="#fig_1">Fig. 1.</a>)</p> - -<p>Certain peculiar forms of sculptured symbols, carved on undressed -upright stones, seem to have originated amongst the Northern Picts. -These symbols (<a href="#fig_3">Fig. 3</a>) consist of the well-known symbol of (<i>a</i>) the -“crescent and sceptre,” (<i>b</i>) the “double disc” or “spectacles,” (<i>c</i>) -the above with sceptre, (<i>d</i>) the oblong with sceptre, (<i>e</i>) the -“elephant,” and other forms which are very common in the East of -Scotland north of the Forth, but are unknown anywhere else. The meaning -of these symbols has never been satisfactorily explained. In the -earliest monuments the symbols and occasional figures are the only -ornaments found on the stones. They are invariably incised and plain, -containing no interlaced or other ornament. It has been pointed out by -Dr. J. Anderson that these simple incised symbols probably belong to the -period before the beginning of the eighth century, when the Columbans -were expelled from Pictland by King Nectan, while the later form of -decorated monuments which succeeded them possibly dates from the return -of the Columban clergy from Ireland in the middle of the ninth century, -when they were re-established in the land by King Kenneth.</p> - -<p>That period probably marks the later style of ornamentation which is -found on the monuments. The original idea of an upright stone with -sculptured symbols is retained, but the monument is no longer a rough -unhewn block. It is now a shaped slab, dressed on both sides and on the -edges, and the ornamental work is no longer incised, but carved</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_3" id="fig_3"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_016.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_016.png" height="239" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span>—Symbols. (From Stuart’s <i>Sculptured -Monuments</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_17" id="page_17">{17}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">in relief (<a href="#fig_4">Fig. 4</a>). The oblong slabs are always upright, and ornamented -on both sides, not recumbent like the Irish slabs. They generally bear -on the obverse a cross of the Celtic form occupying the full size of the -stone. This form of cross has the four angles at the junction of the -arms with the upright shaft hollowed out with a circular or square -recess, and the junction surrounded with a circular band. The oblong -form of the slab is preserved entire, and the portions of the surface on -each side of the cross are usually covered with sculptures representing -symbols or interlaced patterns arranged in panels (<a href="#fig_5">Fig. 5</a>). The cross -itself and the other figures are carved with elaborate designs of -interlaced work, or with frets or divergent spirals. The reverse of the -slabs is also covered with sculpture representing symbols and -conventional or symbolic figures (<a href="#fig_6">Fig. 6</a>). The sculpture on these stones -bears a close resemblance to the designs of the Celtic MSS., so close, -indeed, that each sculptured monument might be a page of MS. carved in -stone. This indicates, as pointed out by Dr. J. Anderson, that the -designs were first wrought out and brought to perfection on the pages of -the MSS., and reproduced at a subsequent</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_4" id="fig_4"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_017.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_017.png" height="436" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span>—Cross at St. Madoe’s, Perthshire.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">period on the stone monuments. The earliest Celtic MSS. date from the -end of the seventh century, while the decorated slabs are probably of -the ninth to the twelfth centuries.<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a></p> - -<p>A distinct change or progressive development is observable in the forms -of the sculptures and ornaments of the above monuments. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_18" id="page_18">{18}</a></span> Celtic -design gradually gives place to new features which bring it into -conformity with the decorations of the MSS. and metal work and the -general progress of the country. It thus at length becomes merged in the -general design of the twelfth century, as introduced from the South -along with the other effects of the Roman influence. The interlaced -work, spirlets, and fret work give place in course of time to scrolls -and leaf ornaments (<a href="#fig_7">Fig. 7</a>). The crosses, formerly enriched with -divergent spirals, become carved with leaf or flower patterns, the -peculiar Pictish symbols disappear, and the Celtic cross gives place to -the more ordinary Norman form. Upright cross slabs are abandoned and -recumbent slabs take their place.</p> - -<p>Amongst the later examples, Scripture scenes similar to those on the -Irish crosses are introduced in the panels, together with numerous -hunting pieces and figures of men and animals. Dr Anderson<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> shows -distinctly that the Scriptural scenes are debased and barely -intelligible representations of symbolic subjects from the Bible, such -as Adam and Eve, the Sacrifice of Isaac, David Slaying the Lion, &c. -Similar subjects are common in the Catacombs of Rome, where they are -painted so as to be easily recognised; but in course of time, and after -many imperfect efforts to copy them, they became reduced to the -conventional forms seen in the Celtic sculptures, the meaning of which -can only be explained by following the designs back to the originals. -Dr. Anderson also shows that the hunting scenes, with men on horseback, -dogs, &c., and the grotesque</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_5" id="fig_5"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_018.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_018.png" height="446" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 5.</span>—Logierait, Perthshire. (From <i>Scotland in Early -Christian Times</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_19" id="page_19">{19}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">animals represented, often with much spirit in the sculptures, are -derived from the symbolic mediæval bestiaries. These figures, which at -first sight might be regarded as secular or grotesque, are thus proved -to be symbolic of Christian doctrine and moral teaching, like many of -the later and more naturalistic carvings in the Gothic churches. In the -hunting scenes the hart panting after the waterbrooks represents the -soul pursued by its worldly enemies; the shooting of the wild boar with -arrows symbolises the conversion of heathen savages to Christianity; the -pelican, with its young, is a symbol of the Resurrection; the lion, the -eagle, the phœnix are types of Christ; the fox and hyena of the -devil.<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a></p> - -<p>The above monuments of the East of Scotland are, as we have seen, almost -all of the upright slab form, bearing the cross on the obverse. Only a -very few free standing crosses exist in that region. Some examples of -transition character are, however, found which form a connecting link -between the upright slabs and the free standing crosses. These consist -of cross bearing slabs having the circles, at the junction of the arms -with the shaft, cut through the stone. It then only remained to cut away -the remainder of the slab and leave the cross free.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_6" id="fig_6"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_019.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_019.png" width="273" height="420" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 6.</span>—At Rossie Priory, Perthshire. (From <i>Scotland in -Early Christian Times</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_20" id="page_20">{20}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_7" id="fig_7"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_020.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_020.png" width="115" height="594" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 7.</span>—St. Vigeans, Forfarshire.</p> - -<p>(From <i>Scotland in Early Christian Times</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the West of Scotland, on the other hand, the principal form of cross -is the free standing one. In consequence of the invasions of the -Northmen, this part of the country was in a great state of disturbance -for a long period after the expulsion of the Columbans from the East, -and little monumental work seems to have been done.<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> There are, -however, a few fragments of free standing crosses at Iona, and one fine -specimen at Kildalton, in Islay, which exhibit the same characteristics -in their sculpture as the pure Celtic upright slabs of the East. (<a href="#fig_8">Fig. -8.</a>) When monumental sculpture was revived in the West, at a considerably -later date, its style indicates connection with Ireland rather than with -the East of Scotland. Free standing crosses abound, and the upright -slabs carved on both sides are rare; the grave slabs being recumbent, -like those of Ireland. The symbols peculiar to the East are also -entirely wanting. It seems also that the monuments of Argyllshire and -the Western Islands (as at Iona, &c.) were influenced by a style of -sculpture imported from the Continent, of which examples exist at Durham -and Hexham. These “are not Celtic, but a debased local survival of -Romanesque forms.”<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a></p> - -<p>The late Western crosses have, further, this peculiarity, that the -circular band round the head of the cross is not cut free, so as to -present an independent ring of stone, but forms a solid disc, from which -the ends of the arms and top project. (Figs. 9 and 9<small>A</small>.) These crosses -generally contain a representation of the Crucifixion, which is almost -unknown in pure Celtic work. The carving also ceases by degrees to be -distinctively Celtic, and consists generally of scroll work and foliage. -(<a href="#fig_10">Fig. 10.</a>) These features were adhered to in this region for centuries -after the Celtic work of the East had entirely given place to the -general Gothic art of the rest of Europe. (<a href="#fig_11">Fig. 11.</a>) The monuments of -the West thus retain a very special character, the foliage of the -designs being unique and original, and in many cases of much beauty. -This peculiar design continued as late as the sixteenth century, several -good dated examples of that period being still preserved, mixed with -debased Gothic<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_21" id="page_21">{21}</a></span> features. The architecture of the locality is naturally -much influenced by this style, as will be pointed out when Iona is -described.</p> - -<p>It can scarcely be doubted that many of the Scottish sculptured stones -are of about twelfth century date. The sculptures on them represent the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_8" id="fig_8"></a><a name="fig_9" id="fig_9"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_021.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_021.png" height="446" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr><td> -<p><span class="smcap">Fig. 8.</span>—St. Martin’s Cross, Iona. -</p> -</td> -<td class="tbspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> - <span class="smcap">Fig. 9.</span>—M‘Lean’s Cross, Iona. -</p></td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">same scenes, and are derived from the same source, as many of those -carved on the tympana and fonts of Norman churches. Such sculptures are -found on churches dating from 1135 to 1190, and almost no figure -sculpture is found on churches of an earlier date. The subjects carved -on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_22" id="page_22">{22}</a></span> churches are similar to those on the crosses, such as Adam and -Eve, David and the lion, Daniel and the lions, hunting scenes, animals, -monsters, and symbolic figures derived from the bestiaries. (See Dalmeny -below.) The latter figures continued to be used on Gothic structures -till a comparatively late date.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_9a" id="fig_9a"></a><a name="fig_10" id="fig_10"></a></p> -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_022.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_022.png" height="480" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr><td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 9a.</span>—Island of Oronsay.<br /> (From <i>Scotland in Early -Christian Times</i>.) -</p> -</td> -<td class="tbspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 10.</span>—Kilchoman Cross, Islay. -</p></td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The sculptured crosses of the East of Scotland thus naturally connect<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_23" id="page_23">{23}</a></span> -themselves with the current design of the period in other countries. -They are no longer the mysterious and unintelligible monuments they</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_11" id="fig_11"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_023.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_023.png" height="509" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 11.</span>—From Iona.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">were once supposed to be. By the able investigations and expositions of -the writers above referred to, they are brought into harmony with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_24" id="page_24">{24}</a></span> -general art of Europe prior to the twelfth century, and are shown to -hold a prominent place in the artistic history of the country.</p> - -<p>It is remarkable, notwithstanding the abundance of sculpture on the -early monuments, that, until the advent of the Norman influence, -scarcely any indication of architectural details or sculpture occurs on -the churches of either Ireland or Scotland.</p> - -<p>The earliest sign of decoration on buildings in Ireland is seen in the -form of a cross, composed of five white pebbles, inserted over the -doorway, in the dark stone of which the beehive cells of Ardoilean are -built. Some of the round towers contain very early instances of -symbolism in the Celtic cross carved on the lintel, while late examples -(such as Brechin) show a further advance in the introduction of a -Crucifixion on the lintel, and other figures on other parts of the -doorway. The carving of the cross on the above and other lintels is -probably symbolic of the blood of the lamb which was struck on the -doorposts of the Israelites in Egypt at the Passover.<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a></p> - -<h3>EARLY ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES IN SCOTLAND.</h3> - -<p>The ecclesiastical structures of the early centuries which still survive -in Scotland are of the type of the stone erections above described in -the monasteries of Ireland. The beehive huts and oratories of the parent -eremitical establishments in the latter country are represented by a few -similar collections of structures which yet remain in the remote islands -and distant parts of Scotland.</p> - -<p>Groups of dry-built beehive huts (or the remains of them), surrounding -one or more primitive churches, can still be pointed to in several -localities. These are surrounded with the wall or cashel which was -always present around the Irish monasteries.</p> - -<p>Diminutive dry-built stone cells or oratories, with sloping or curved -walls, having the roof closed in with overlapping stones, converging -towards the centre, and covered with flag-stones, are still found in the -remote islands. One oratory also exists at Inchcolm where the stone roof -is supported by a true arch, as in some of the latest Irish examples. It -should, however, be pointed out that huts of similar construction to the -above are known to have been erected and inhabited in recent times in -the Outer Hebrides.<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> The hermitages above referred to, although -belonging to this oldest type of structure, may thus possibly not be the -oldest buildings in the country.</p> - -<p>At a later time the rude monastic cells and hermitages were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_25" id="page_25">{25}</a></span> followed by -the churches established by the missionaries from Iona. The Scottish -churches erected by the Columbans were, like those of Ireland, of -extreme simplicity, and generally of small dimensions. They consisted of -a simple oblong chamber, with a single door and a single small window. -The walls were often built without mortar, and the wall apertures were -finished with undressed stones. These structures were sometimes covered -with a plain barrel vault, and sometimes with rafters and thatch. The -jambs of the doorway incline inwards and have straight lintels; the -windows are either square-headed or rudely arched. Until the Romanesque -influence is felt, not a trace of any kind of ornament is to be found on -these churches. Latterly, a few details resembling Norman work are -introduced.</p> - -<p>In other examples of this type the details are more advanced. The door -jambs are upright and are covered with semi-circular arches, and the -windows are also similarly treated. The buildings, however, possess few -features to enable the date of their erection to be determined. They may -possibly have all been erected during a long course of years at -different times in different localities, according to local -circumstances; but it is natural to suppose that those of the more -refined type are the latest.</p> - -<p>Another class of churches forms a distinctly later type than the above -simple quadrilateral structures. These are the churches consisting of a -nave and chancel. Not that the method of construction or the details of -these churches show any advance on the previous class. On the contrary, -the details are in many cases as simple and rude as those of the -one-chambered churches; but the alteration of the ground plan, by the -addition of a separate chancel, shows a development of the religious -service, leading to the inference that the type of churches with -chancels is later than the single-chambered ones. This, however, only -shows that the idea is later, not that single-chambered churches did not -continue to be erected after the chancel had, in some instances, been -introduced.<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> The persistence of an original form of plan is -remarkable and is well exemplified in the history of the castles of -Scotland, which shows how the primitive keep-plan of the thirteenth -century continued to be adopted up to the seventeenth century, long -after other and more developed forms of castles had been introduced.</p> - -<p>The tendency in churches, however, seems to have been to adhere to the -chancel plan after its introduction, and even to alter older simple -churches by the addition of a chancel to one-chambered structures. Of -this we have mentioned an instance in Ireland at St. Kevin’s oratory at -Glendalough, and we shall meet with examples in Scotland as we proceed. -In other instances, primitive oratories have been converted into -churches with chancels by the addition of a nave, the original oratory -being retained as the chancel. We have thus a transitional plan<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_26" id="page_26">{26}</a></span> forming -the link which connects these primitive single-chambered churches with -the more advanced type of church with nave and chancel. In most of these -early churches the chancel forms a separate apartment from the nave, the -entrance to the chancel being by a doorway only, generally similar in -size and form to that of the western entrance to the nave.</p> - -<p>The chancel arch occurs, in some instances, as a later development. -This, together with a few other details, seems to point to the influence -of the Continental or Romanesque style which was slowly beginning to -make itself felt in some parts of the country. All the above types of -structures have been thoroughly examined and described by Mr. Muir, and -will be more fully dealt with in the detailed descriptions of the -churches derived from Mr. Muir’s works.</p> - -<p>There still remain some special examples of Celtic structures to be -mentioned. These are the well-known round towers, of which those at -Abernethy and Brechin have already been referred to. A third round tower -is also found attached to the church of Egilsay, in Orkney.<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> These -towers are, undoubtedly, all examples of a style imported from Ireland. -They are detached specimens of a group, of which no fewer than -seventy-six examples still exist in that country, besides twenty-two -others which are known to have existed formerly. It has been shown by -Dr. Petrie that the Irish round towers were erected as places of refuge -in connection with monasteries, to which the monks might repair with -their relics and treasures in case of alarm. Such shelter was only too -much required, as the valuables of the monastic institutions formed a -very tempting bait for pillage by the Norsemen, whose depredations were -so alarming during the ninth century.</p> - -<p>The history of the round towers of Ireland is easily traced in their -architecture, and has been fully explained and illustrated by Dr. Petrie -in his well-known book on the subject, and in the late Lord Dunraven’s -beautiful work on the early structures of Ireland. These towers are -always found associated with religious sites. The earliest examples are -comparatively rude in structure, while the later ones gradually improve -in style of masonry and finish, until the latest are built with ashlar -work, and contain some Romanesque ornaments and details. In all, -however, the leading principles of their construction are the same. -(<a href="#fig_12">Fig. 12.</a>) The tower is round on plan, and is finished on top with a -conical roof. The door is narrow, and is placed, for security, at a -considerable height above the ground, and the lower floor is sometimes -built up solid, so as to resist conflagration. The windows are small, -except those on the top story, which are generally set facing the -cardinal points, and are larger, so as to allow the sound of the bell to -be heard—one of the uses of the tower being to serve as a belfry. The -Irish practice of inclining the jambs of the doors is maintained, and in -the early examples the lintel is straight,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_27" id="page_27">{27}</a></span> while in the later ones the -door is finished with a semi-circular arch, and enriched with several -orders of mouldings and ornaments bearing a markedly Norman character. -This remark applies also to the four windows of the top story, which are -plain in the early examples, and gradually become more ornamental and -Norman like. The Irish towers are almost invariably built alone, and -free from other structures; but some late examples are constructed in -connection with churches, and enter from them by a door on the level of -the floor of the church. The idea of using these towers as a place of -security is thus departed from, and they are then simply of use as -belfries.<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> Finally, they become absorbed into the structure of the -church, and are erected merely to serve as belfries on the gable.</p> - -<p>In the three Scottish round towers we find the same characteristics as -in those of Ireland. The tower at Egilsay (<i>q.v.</i>) is rude in style of -masonry, but as</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_12" id="fig_12"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_027.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_027.png" height="409" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 12.</span>—Irish Round Tower at Devenish. (From <i>Scotland -in Early Christian Times</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">it enters from the church on the level of the floor, it is evidently of -the late type above referred to. The towers at Brechin and Abernethy -(<i>q.v.</i>) are built with more carefully selected and wrought materials, -and both have the door, which is built with inclined jambs, set some -feet above the ground. The latter has the four upper windows covered -with semi-circular arches,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_28" id="page_28">{28}</a></span> showing a considerable amount of Norman -character in the mouldings and enrichments, as well as in the style of -masonry. That at Brechin has a door with sloping jambs, having a -Crucifixion carved above it and dragonesque sculptures at the base, and -other details connecting it in a marked manner with the style of the -round towers of Ireland. There can be no doubt that these are outlying -examples of the Irish class of towers, while they exhibit also some -features of the Romanesque architecture which, in the eleventh and -twelfth centuries, had penetrated thus far northwards.</p> - -<p>The next step in architectural progress consists of another structure, -comprising a tower of a character somewhat related to the above, but -having the Norman character more fully developed. This is the church of -St. Regulus at St. Andrews (<i>q.v.</i>), the tower of which is lofty and -square. This tower may be compared to the square tower of Cormac’s -Chapel at Cashel, in Ireland, which is stated by Dr. Petrie, on good -authority, to have been finished by 1135.<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> They both possess Norman -features, well developed, and their square form and close attachment to -a church are elements which distinguish them from the other and older -round towers. Probably, however, they were also intended, like the -latter, to form places of secure retreat as well as belfries. Both bear -the signs of being late buildings of their class.</p> - -<p>The dates of all the Irish round towers are somewhat uncertain, but -probably extend from the ninth to the twelfth centuries, having, as -already stated, been erected at the time of the invasions of the -plundering Northmen. The dates of the destruction of several are -recorded, and have been collected by Dr. Petrie, who also shows that -many churches which had been destroyed by the Northmen were repaired and -rebuilt about 1150.<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a></p> - -<p>It is believed that in Ireland a form of Romanesque was introduced -before the Anglo-Norman invasion,<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> and many of the early ornamented -churches show a style of carving in which the Irish interlaced work and -other special details are introduced. But in Scotland there are no -traces of churches containing any similar work, although, possibly, some -may have existed and been swept away in the great rebuilding epoch which -followed the Norman Conquest.</p> - -<p>The earliest examples of anything like ornament in Scottish churches -within the historic period are undoubtedly the outcome of the Roman -influence introduced under the Normans. We have already referred to the -effects of early Roman influence at St. Regulus; and the next earliest -building, the date of which is thought to be recorded, is the Reilig -Oran at Iona (<i>q.v.</i>), a simple single-chambered structure, with a west -doorway containing Norman ornament. This is said to have been erected by -Queen Margaret before 1093.<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_29" id="page_29">{29}</a></span></p> - -<p>The chapel in Edinburgh Castle bearing St. Margaret’s name is also -attributed to her, and is supposed to have been erected during her -lifetime, or shortly afterwards. It would, in that case, be the first -example in Scotland of a church terminating with an eastern apse (which, -however, is square on the exterior).</p> - -<p>Whether these buildings were actually erected in Queen Margaret’s -lifetime or not, they certainly belong to a period not long subsequent. -The life of that Queen and Saint marks the period of transition in -Scotland from the old system to the new, not only in building, but in -every other department.</p> - -<p>Edgar Aetheling, the heir of the old Saxon kings, having been driven out -by the Conqueror, found refuge, along with his mother and sisters, in -the Court of his relative, Malcolm Canmore. There Margaret, having -become Malcolm’s wife, soon introduced many of the reforms and -ameliorations she had learned in England. Particularly, she gave a -distinct impetus to the Roman influence, then very strong in the South, -and encouraged the hosts of Saxon refugees who now crowded to Scotland, -bringing their advanced notions with them. The same tendency was -manifested by Margaret’s sons, Edgar and Alexander, who followed her -footsteps in endeavouring to assimilate the Scottish Church to that of -England.</p> - -<p>It was King Alexander who, being driven by a storm on the Island of -Inchcolm, in the Frith of Forth, was rescued and sustained by a hermit, -who then occupied a primitive cell, built on the island, similar to -those of the Columbans above referred to. The king vowed, in -thankfulness for his deliverance, to found a monastery on the spot, and -in 1123 he here introduced a colony of Canons Regular. He also -endeavoured to bring the Episcopacy of St. Andrews into conformity with -the Roman model.</p> - -<p>Under Alexander,<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> Turgot, the Prior of Durham, and biographer of St. -Margaret, was appointed to the long vacant See of St. Andrews. This king -also founded the Bishopric of Moray, and restored that of Dunkeld. In -the former wild Diocese the churches of Birnie, Spynie, and Kinedor -appear to have existed, but it was not till 1203 that Bricius, the sixth -bishop, was able to fix his cathedral at Spynie.</p> - -<p>In 1115 Alexander introduced a colony of Canons Regular to Scone, from -Nastley Abbey, in Yorkshire, and some years later he brought canons to -the Diocese of Dunkeld, and in 1122 he founded a Priory of Canons -Regular on an island at the east end of Loch Tay.<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a></p> - -<p>Alexander was succeeded by his brother, David <small>I.</small>, who carried out -vigorously the same ecclesiastical policy. While still Prince of -Cumbria, he, about 1115, appointed an inquisition of the elders and wise -men of Cumbria to inquire into the lands and churches which formerly -belonged to the See of Glasgow. The Prince appointed his tutor John to -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_30" id="page_30">{30}</a></span> revived bishopric, and in 1147 a dean and chapter, after the model -of Sarum, were introduced. On his accession to the throne David -proceeded diligently with the establishment of bishoprics and -monasteries. It is said of him by Ailred of Rivaux<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> that, “Whereas he -had found in the whole kingdom of Scotland three or four bishoprics -only, what with ancient ones which he restored and new ones which he -founded, he left nine at his death.” The bishoprics which existed at his -accession were those of St. Andrews, Moray, and Dunkeld. Those he -founded were the Dioceses of Rosemarkie, Ross, Aberdeen, and Caithness. -Glasgow, as we have seen, he re-established, and the See of Galloway was -also restored.</p> - -<p>Under King David I. a final effort was made to suppress the Culdees, or -rather to absorb them into the general system as approved by Rome. Those -of St. Andrews were with difficulty dispossessed. The Culdees of -Lochleven were suppressed. Those of Monymusk, in Aberdeenshire, were -brought under the control of the Bishop of St. Andrews. Not only were -the old establishments suppressed, but new monastic orders were -everywhere introduced, Dunfermline Abbey was remodelled and Benedictines -brought to it from Canterbury. The same order was introduced at Urquhart -in Inverness-shire. After Moray had been brought into subjection, the -Monastery of Kinloss was founded and peopled with Cistercians from -Melrose. Of other monastic institutions throughout the country many -others were re-established on a new footing and received the -benefactions of the king. In 1113 he had (as Earl) founded a monastery -at Selkirk for Benedictine Monks of the Order of Tyron. This was -afterwards removed to Kelso, while the establishments of Melrose, -Dundrennan, Newbattle, Coldingham, Holyrood, Cambuskenneth were fostered -and strengthened.</p> - -<p>The efforts of King David in the first half of the twelfth century -carried out vigorously in Scotland the system inaugurated by St. -Margaret, which was, indeed, the distinguishing feature of the period -throughout Europe. He, no doubt, had policy as well as religion in view, -and believed that in importing numerous bands of educated monks into the -border lands of his kingdom, both in the North and South, he was doing -the best possible to spread the benefits of education and civilisation -in those unsettled localities, and was thus consolidating his dominion.</p> - -<p>At this period the Saxon refugees were followed into Scotland by large -numbers of Norman knights. These were well received by King David and -presented with lands in the outlying districts, which he had subdued, as -well as throughout the country. The number and extensive possessions of -these Norman immigrants are most apparent in the names of the -proprietors settled in every part of the country.<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_31" id="page_31">{31}</a></span></p> - -<p>The policy of colonising the outlying and turbulent districts with these -trained knights is apparent. They would in self-defence help to keep the -country in order, and defend it from the attacks of the still unsubdued -regions of the North and West. It also had the effect of facilitating -the spread of the Roman ecclesiastical system which the king had so much -at heart. The country, being parcelled out in the hands of Anglo-Normans -already imbued with the principles and practices of that system, would -soon be brought into conformity with it. Each proprietor would, as soon -as possible, raise a hamlet round his castle for his retainers, and a -village church for their religious requirements. Thus there speedily -arose, instead of the ancient tribal arrangements, a new distribution of -the land into parishes, each with its parochial church and priest, and -each tithed to its own manor.</p> - -<p>Evidences of these early parish churches still survive in many places, -and they will be illustrated in the sequel.</p> - -<p>But “this goodly framework of a parochial secular establishment was -shipwrecked when scarcely formed.”<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> Monachism was then in the -ascendant in Europe. New Orders were constantly being created, to spread -the banner of Roman supremacy. Their monasteries soon drew to themselves -all that was worth having in the Church. The Lords encouraged them and -presented them with lands and churches, and the people were attracted by -their zeal and asceticism. They soon became rich and were able to -indulge their taste in the erection of noble monasteries and churches, -the illustration of which, erected during the three succeeding -centuries, forms a most important part of the following pages.</p> - -<p>Having traced the course of the influences which affected the primitive -ecclesiastical structures of Scotland till the period when the Irish -influence was superseded by that of Rome, it is now proposed to glance -shortly at the origin and development of the Norman style which, as we -have seen, was introduced into this country in the twelfth century, and -of the various styles of Gothic architecture which succeeded it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_32" id="page_32">{32}</a></span></p> - -<h3>ROMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE.</h3> - -<p>After the fall of the Roman empire in the fifth century, a debased style -founded on Roman models prevailed over Western Europe, and</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_13" id="fig_13"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_032-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_032-a.png" width="163" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 13.</span>—Roman Arch—Pont du Gard.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">as the various waves of barbarians swept over the empire and settled in -different parts of it, they adopted the Roman system of construction -which they found in existence, and imported into it gradually ideas of -their own. In course of time a method of building was thus developed -which is known as the Romanesque style. This style varied greatly in -different localities, according as it was influenced by the presence or -absence of Roman structures to serve as models for imitation; but over -the whole empire it retained a certain amount of resemblance to Roman -forms.</p> - -<p>The Roman principle of an arched, as distinguished from a trabeated, -style of building was preserved everywhere, but was for long applied in -a very simple and merely imitative manner. When, however, nationalities -came to be settled, and law established, and when at the same time the -regulating and disciplining influence of the Church made itself felt, -some elements</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_14" id="fig_14"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_032-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_032-b.png" width="133" height="148" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 14.</span>—Romanesque Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of order and regularity were introduced into the system of construction. -The large and massive building materials employed by the Romans not -being usually available by the builders of the Middle Ages, smaller -materials had to be utilised, and this led to the introduction of new -ideas in their application. For instance, the arches supporting walls -were, under the Romans, constructed with large materials, and had a -broad soffit or under surface going through the wall (<a href="#fig_13">Fig. 13</a>); but with -the smaller materials in use in the tenth and eleventh centuries, -arches, for the same purpose, were more conveniently built in rings, one -within the other (<a href="#fig_14">Fig. 14</a>). These rings were placed so as to present to -the eye, instead of a flat soffit, a series of arches arranged in stages -or steps towards the centre, and each bearing a part of the load of the -wall. This subdivision of the original plain soffit is called the -“subordination” of arches, and was the first step in the long process of -advance which led finally to the perfect Gothic architecture of the -Middle Ages.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_33" id="page_33">{33}</a></span></p> - -<p>The next step was to divide the solid square piers which had been -originally employed to support the arches into a number of distinct -parts corresponding to the rings of the arches, thus forming “orders” in -the piers, as well as in the arches they carried. (See <a href="#fig_14">Fig. 14.</a>)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_15" id="fig_15"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_033.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_033.png" height="440" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 15.</span>—St. Trophime, Arles.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Owing to the occurrence of frequent fires in the wooden roofs of early -churches, the builders aimed at carrying out the Roman practice of -fireproof vaulting. This was at first done timidly and with many -failures. The round barrel vault of the Romans was that generally -employed; but in Provence the pointed barrel vault (<a href="#fig_15">Fig. 15</a>) was -adopted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_34" id="page_34">{34}</a></span> from an early period, being a form which exerted on the side -walls a less horizontal thrust than the semi-circular arch, and was the -best shape for supporting a stone roof laid upon it. In order to -strengthen this vault, a projecting ring or inner arch was constructed -under the main vault, and extended across the nave between each pair of -the main piers.</p> - -<p>Carrying out the principle of subordination already introduced, each of -these strengthening rings had a shaft with cap and base placed so as to -receive it, thus indicating to the eye the principle on which it -acted—viz., that of carrying the weight of the strengthening rib down -to the foundation.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_16" id="fig_16"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_034.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_034.png" height="253" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 16.</span>—Groined Vault.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>By the eleventh century the principle of subordination had been carried -out into every part of the structure, and some refinement was beginning -to be attempted; shafts were substituted for the plain orders of the -piers, and a cap and base provided for each (see <a href="#fig_14">Fig. 14.</a>), and the sharp -angles of the orders of the arch were softened by having large roll -mouldings wrought upon them. The next step in the progress of -development was the subdividing or groining of the vault, so as to admit -of windows for the purpose of lighting the upper part of the building, -which, with the barrel vault, was found to be very dark. (<a href="#fig_16">Fig. 16</a>). Many -different plans were tried to improve the lighting of the vault, but -without satisfactory result, till recourse was had to the intersecting -vault of the Romans, still visible in many structures then surviving. -This mode of vaulting consisted in the introduction of a vault crossing -the structure between each set of piers at right angles to the main -vault, and it had at once the desired effect, as it enabled the side -walls containing windows to be carried up as high as the top of the -vault, thus giving ample light. Other very important consequences -followed from this improvement of the vaulting. Hitherto, with the -barrel vault, the pressure had been uniform over the side walls, which -were made very solid to resist it; but with the introduction of the -groined vaulting, the weight of the vault was concentrated on the points -where the groins rested. This necessitated the strengthening of these -points, which was managed by means of buttresses. These are simply -portions of wall set at right angles to the building in order to receive -the weight and thrust of the arches and carry them down to the ground. -The portion<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_35" id="page_35">{35}</a></span> of the side wall between the buttresses was thus relieved -from any pressure beyond its own weight. It is evident that an entire -change in the principles of the construction of the edifice would thus -be created. The buttresses now became important members both in the -construction and the appearance of the building. The side walls, being -now mere enclosing screens, might be reduced from their previous massive -condition, and made as thin and light as desired, while the windows in -them might be enlarged to any extent. The same remarks apply to the side -aisles, the vaulting of which was also groined and supported on -buttressed points like the main vaults. With the solid materials of the -Romans, the groins or lines of meeting of the intersecting arches formed -simple curved lines or angles; but with the smaller materials of the -mediæval architects this construction could not easily be accomplished, -and it became usual to construct the groins with a solid stone rib, at -first plain, but in later examples enriched with a roll moulding.</p> - -<p>The development of mediæval architecture reached the point above -described during the course of the twelfth century. The Romanesque -architecture of Lombardy, Germany, and Burgundy had wrought out the -arrangement of the groined vaulting and the distribution of the forces -arising therefrom, and the designing and construction of the necessary -buttresses. The subordination of the various members, the division of -the piers and arches into orders, each performing a distinct function, -the erection of a vaulting shaft at each pier to receive the ribs of the -vaults, the construction of ribs to form the groins and carry the panels -of the vaults, had all been fully accomplished. Each shaft was supported -on a base and crowned with a cap to receive its load, and each order of -the arches received an appropriate moulding or enrichment. Thus far were -the constructional features of a genuine arched style of construction, -in stone, wrought out during the course of the eleventh and early part -of the twelfth centuries.</p> - -<p>The forms of the ornament kept pace with the development of the -construction. In the earlier centuries the Romanesque style had become -stereotyped, the general features being regarded as wrought out, and -invention limited itself to the elaboration of details and ornaments. -Hence it arose that much of the Romanesque ornament was overloaded and -inapplicable to its position. But as advances were made in the direction -of improving the vaulting and other constructional elements, the -builders’ energies were also directed towards improvement of the -decorative features, the heavy unsuitable ornaments were discarded, and -lighter and more appropriate forms introduced.</p> - -<p>This new phase of architecture was adopted by the Normans with their -usual energy, and during the twelfth century was carried out by them, -both in Normandy and England, to an advanced state of development, thus -constituting the well-known Norman style.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_36" id="page_36">{36}</a></span></p> - -<h3>NORMAN STYLE.</h3> - -<p>This style is easily recognised by its simple and massive forms and its -semi-circular arches. The exterior (<a href="#fig_17">Fig. 17</a>) is generally plain, with -broad and slightly projecting buttresses attached to the building, and -sometimes</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_17" id="fig_17"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_036.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_036.png" width="437" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 17.</span>—Church of St. Cross, Hampshire. Elevation of -the East End. (From Britton’s <i>Antiquities</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">crowned with pinnacles. The doorways are, however, generally treated in -a more ornamental manner. They are often deeply recessed, and have the -jambs decorated with a series of round shafts set in square nooks or -recesses, and furnished with richly-carved caps and bases. The arch<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_37" id="page_37">{37}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_18" id="fig_18"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_037.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_037.png" width="433" height="586" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 18.</span>—Durham Cathedral. The Nave. (From Billings’ -<i>Durham Cathedral</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_38" id="page_38">{38}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">mouldings, which are also numerous, are arranged in square steps or -orders, and frequently ornamented with much carving of special kinds of -enrichments. Of these the chevron, or zig-zag, is most abundantly used, -together with the billet, the bird’s head, &c. The windows are wide in -proportion to their height, and are covered in with round arches.</p> - -<p>In the interior (<a href="#fig_18">Fig. 18</a>) the Norman piers consist of simple cylindrical -columns of great size, frequently carved with large zig-zags or spiral -lines carried round them, and finished with bold caps and bases. The -most frequent caps are of the “cushion” form, which resembles one or -more spherical figures having portions cut off perpendicularly. The caps -are also sometimes carved with human or other figures. The abacus is -always solid, and generally square in shape. In some examples, -especially in France, the capitals of the piers are frequently carved in -rude imitation of the Corinthian form and foliage.</p> - -<p>Late examples show the piers subdivided into the clustered form, which -became universal in the subsequent periods. In the transition from -Norman to Early Pointed, many of the features of the latter style are -gradually introduced. Hence a mixture of the round and pointed arch, and -a lightening of the mouldings, and a new kind of carving of foliage are -observable in the latter half of the twelfth century. The earlier Norman -edifices are extremely plain, scarcely any ornament being used. The -figure sculpture is almost entirely confined to the period after 1135.</p> - -<h3>NORMAN STYLE IN SCOTLAND.</h3> - -<p>Of the cathedrals, monasteries, and churches erected in Scotland during -the twelfth century, only a few portions now exist, nearly all of them -having been reconstructed or altered at later times.</p> - -<p>The Cathedral of Dunblane still retains a tower of the foundation of -King David; and in the nave of the Cathedral of Kirkwall, commenced -1136, we yet possess a noble Norman structure, which, however, we owe to -the piety of the Norwegian occupants of the Orkneys.</p> - -<p>Of the monastic foundations of St. Margaret and her sons we still retain -the venerable Norman nave of Dunfermline, and portions of the Norman -edifices of Holyrood, Dryburgh, and Jedburgh.</p> - -<p>Kelso Abbey Church, although only a fragment, is a fine specimen of the -late style of the twelfth century. Arbroath Abbey, founded by William -the Lion in 1178, still shows in its ruins some late work of the same -period. Holyrood, Jedburgh, and St. Andrews contain much work of the -period of transition from the Norman to the First Pointed style, which -came into use about the beginning of the thirteenth century.</p> - -<p>Of the twelfth century parish churches, those of Dalmeny and Leuchars -are nearly complete and very beautiful examples, the former having nave, -choir, and apse, and both exhibit much of the arcaded and ornamental<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_39" id="page_39">{39}</a></span> -work of the more florid period of the style. Portions of Norman work are -found, as was to be expected in this great church-building epoch, in -every county, and are represented here by a tower, there by a chancel -arch, elsewhere by a door or a window, or other fragmentary -relic—rarely by a whole nave or chancel. In some examples the Norman -plan is still complete so far as the outline of the walls is concerned, -but these are generally considerably altered and interfered with, as, -for example, at Duddingston, Stobo, and Uphall. The parish churches were -usually of small size, and consisted of an oblong nave and chancel, -separated by a chancel arch generally ornamented with chevron -enrichments. Frequently there was a semi-circular apse beyond the -chancel, also entered by an enriched semi-circular arch. Side aisles -were rarely introduced. The only Norman parish church of cruciform plan -was that of St. Nicholas, Aberdeen, now greatly altered.</p> - -<h3>FIRST POINTED STYLE.</h3> - -<p>The Norman style of architecture continued to prevail in England till -near the close of the twelfth century, and in Scotland for some time -thereafter. At that period a further and completer development awaited -the architecture of the Middle Ages. We have seen that the -“subordination” of all the parts had been achieved, together with the -use of the groined vault, with its accompanying buttresses and -pinnacles, in the round arched style. The employment of the round arch -was, however, found to involve many practical difficulties in connection -with the vaulting. The bays of the nave, so long as they were <i>square</i> -in plan, could be conveniently vaulted with intersecting semi-circular -groins; but when they were of an oblong form, the width being greater -than the length (as was often found necessary in order to suit the -vaulting of the side aisles), the round arch was found very inconvenient -in consequence of the large arch which spanned the nave rising to a -greater height than the smaller arch of the side walls. It was -endeavoured to overcome this difficulty by stilting the arch of the side -vault so as to make its apex of the same height as the main transverse -vault; but this scheme interfered with the lines of the groins or -intersection of the vaults in such a manner as to render it unworkable. -It therefore became necessary to seek for a more flexible form of arch, -which would enable the apex of all the arches of the vaults, whatever -their span, to rise to any required height. This useful form was -discovered in the pointed arch, which had long been in use in Provence, -and which the builders of the North of France now found themselves -forced to adopt by the exigencies of their vaults, and which ultimately -led to the development of the pointed style.</p> - -<p>The new life and growth of architecture which, as we have seen, sprung -into existence in the twelfth century, had been adopted with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_40" id="page_40">{40}</a></span> eagerness -by the builders of the Royal Domain of France. Not being trammelled by -the traditions of an ancient and long-used system, these architects had -thrown themselves with energy into the new development of architecture, -and it was in this locality that the application of the pointed arch to -the difficulties of the vaulting seems to have been first successfully -carried out.</p> - -<p>As early as 1144 the pointed vaulting of the side chapels of the -Cathedral of St. Denis was completed by the Abbé Suger. Some time -elapsed until the effect of this new system of vaulting was fully -realised, either in France or England; but when its advantages were at -last seized, the pointed arch was speedily adopted. At first it was -applied in both countries, for the sake of strength, to the main bearing -arches; but gradually the round arch was superseded, and the pointed -form adopted, for the sake of harmony, in all wall openings. The pointed -style thus became completed in its main elements towards the close of -the twelfth century. The pointed form of the vaulting gradually ruled -every other feature. The large windows of the clerestory, being near the -vaults, naturally assumed the same pointed form as the wall ribs, and -the other windows and the doorways speedily followed, in sympathy with -the general movement.</p> - -<p>The fresh vigour of the mouldings and foliage begun under the Normans -went on improving in the pointed style, and the energy and devotion of -the builders in France and England wrought out in each country a -separate pointed architecture, each founded on the use of the pointed -arch, but each showing original and distinct elements.</p> - -<p>In France there is visible, in the early pointed architecture, a -constant effort to attain to some new development—a restless striving -after novel and more expanded forms, leading to great magnitude and -height in the churches, many of which were, in consequence, never -finished. In England, while novelties of design are sought after, there -is more contentment and completeness in the architecture. There is not -the same soaring ambition and striving after spacious buildings and -lofty vaults; consequently, the English cathedrals and large churches -are more frequently finished, a greater amount of attention being -devoted to rendering the structure complete and varied in its different -parts than in the production of one great and striking result. The -English cathedrals are thus more picturesque, while those of France are -grander in appearance. The former effect is produced by the multiplicity -and variety, as well as the completeness, of all the parts, many of the -English cathedrals (as Salisbury, <a href="#fig_19">Fig. 19.</a>) having double transepts, -eastern lady chapels, large vaulted cloisters, detached chapter-houses, -&c.; while the grand effect of the French cathedrals arises from their -great size and height, and the apparent unity and simplicity of the -design. In one respect the cathedrals and churches of the two countries -greatly differ. Owing to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_41" id="page_41">{41}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_19" id="fig_19"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_041.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_041.png" width="696" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 19.</span>—Salisbury Cathedral. View from the North-East. -(From Britton’s <i>Cathedrals</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_42" id="page_42">{42}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">their immense height, the French churches require a vast quantity of -lofty buttresses and pinnacles, which, to the eye accustomed to those of -England, produce a feeling of confusion and unrest. The great flying</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_20" id="fig_20"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_042.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_042.png" height="473" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 20.</span>—(From Viollet le Duc’s <i>Dictionnaire</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">buttresses of the multangular chevet of the French cathedrals tend to -increase this feeling, and to give the impression of an unfinished -building still surrounded with huge piles of scaffolding. The plain -rectangular east<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_43" id="page_43">{43}</a></span> end of most of the English cathedrals, and the -comparative simplicity of the easily intelligible buttresses and -pinnacles, give an air of repose and peacefulness to these edifices -which is sought for in vain in most French examples. The portals of -France are amongst the chief glories of its churches. The doorways of -the English churches, although sometimes beautiful in detail, never -attempt to reach the magnitude or splendour of those of France. But the -side porches of the English churches are often of great size and beauty.</p> - -<p>When attention is directed to the details of pointed architecture, -constructional characteristics are found to pervade their design. In -France, there is visible in every element of early pointed work a -continuous effort to indicate its intention and purpose. Constructional -utility rules everything, each member is designed to perform its -function in the most perfect manner, and ornament is employed to express -that idea. By means of the square or angular abacus of the caps and -bases of the shafts, which are always set so as to show what member they -carry, an effort is made to express the motive of the design, and the -caps are carved with spirited foliage, signifying by its upward tendency -the vigour with which they perform their duty. (<a href="#fig_20">Fig. 20.</a>) The shafts of -the piers, also, are so arranged and grouped and set at such heights as -to declare at once the function they perform in supporting certain ribs -and mouldings of the arches and vaults, and the tracery of the windows -gives expression to the ideas which have guided its design. The -constructional principles of the French architecture are especially -distinct in the naked, but vigorous, churches of the early Cistercians -in France.</p> - -<p>The details of the early English work, while equally beautiful with -French work, are not quite so expressive of growth and vigour. The -foliage is conventional in the extreme, and less suggestive of vitality -and development. The abacus of the caps, which is almost invariably -round, does not so fully express their purpose in the design, while the -mouldings with which the caps are usually ornamented fail to show the -life and spirit of the carved and foliaged caps of France. (<a href="#fig_21">Fig. 21.</a>) In -the same way the introduction of tracery in the English windows lags -behind that of France. In the latter country window tracery was fully -developed by 1250, while in England the lancet form, single or grouped, -was still adhered to. In variety of clustered columns and in richness of -mouldings, however, the English style held its own.</p> - -<p>The characteristics of the first or early pointed style in France and -England are as distinct and apparent as those of the Norman. The general -effect of the exterior (<a href="#fig_22">Fig. 22</a>) is lighter than in the latter style, -though still solid. The buttresses have greater projection and less -breadth than the Norman ones, and are often lightened by having the -outer angles chamfered. The water tables of the set-offs are also -steeper, the pinnacles are thinner and loftier, and the buttresses are -crowned with gablets and finials. In late<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_44" id="page_44">{44}</a></span> examples the flying buttress -is introduced. The windows are invariably pointed. They are narrow and -lofty, and from their acute shape are known as “lancet” windows. Each -single window is distinct, but sometimes two or three are brought close -together and are included within one arch head, so as to form a group. -As the style advanced the arch head of such a group was perforated with -a trefoil or quatrefoil figure. Circular windows are also common, and -these came to be filled with</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_21" id="fig_21"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_044.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_044.png" height="376" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 21.</span>—Salisbury Cathedral. (From Britton’s -<i>Antiquities</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">radiating shafts and trefoiled arch heads. Out of these two forms there -gradually arose a simple kind of tracery towards the close of the -period. The trefoiled head of the lancet is also a distinct evidence of -early pointed work. The doorways are deeply recessed, and have generally -free shafts in the jambs, with mouldings between. The arch mouldings are -usually in square orders and boldly cut. In the interior the piers of -the arches are much less massive than the Norman piers, and are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_45" id="page_45">{45}</a></span> often -composed of clustered shafts standing free, and set round a circular or -octagonal pillar. The Norman square abacus continued to</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_22" id="fig_22"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_045.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_045.png" width="401" height="543" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 22.</span>—Lincoln Cathedral. Compartment of the Nave, -Exterior and Interior. (From Britton’s <i>Chronological History of English -Architecture</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_46" id="page_46">{46}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">be used in transition and early first pointed work; but later, in -England, the caps of each shaft have a round abacus, and the cap itself -usually consists of mouldings, with a bell-shaped form beneath. When -foliage is employed it is invariably of the conventional form above -referred to; but in France the cap-à-crochet is almost universal. The -arch mouldings are deeply cut, and their lighter form is easily -distinguished from the heavy Norman rolls.</p> - -<p>The ornaments of the mouldings are also very distinctly marked, the -dog-tooth being conspicuous in all early pointed work.</p> - -<p>Tall towers and spires supersede the more massive and lower towers of -the Normans. In the vaults, the ribs are simple—only the cross -springers and diagonal ribs being used—a longitudinal and transverse -ridge rib is, however, occasionally employed.</p> - -<h3>FIRST POINTED STYLE IN SCOTLAND.</h3> - -<p>In Scotland, as might be expected, from its remoteness from the centre -of origin, and from the fact that the pointed style was imported into -this country through England, pointed architecture is not only somewhat -later in appearing, but is to some extent modified in its developments. -The main characteristics of the early pointed style of this country are, -however, founded on those of England, and show no traces of any direct -influence from France.</p> - -<p>The principal difference between Scottish and English work is that the -former is later and not so completely and purely pointed in style as the -latter, the round arch and other Norman forms lingering with us in some -cases long after the pointed style had been adopted.</p> - -<p>During the thirteenth century the importation and settlement of -Anglo-Normans in Scotland, begun in the previous century, still -continued, and amicable relations between England and Scotland were -fairly maintained. The Norman Conquest, which had been effected with so -much violence in England, proceeded by more gentle means in Scotland, at -least for a time. The ancient Culdee ecclesiastics having been absorbed -or displaced and their revenues appropriated, the Church became -gradually settled and established under the authority of Rome, and a -stream of Englishmen continued to flow in to fill all the posts of -honour and emolument in the ecclesiastical sphere; cathedrals, -monasteries, and parish churches arose under the fresh and vigorous -impulse of the new order of things. The style of architecture practised -in England during the thirteenth century was introduced into Scotland, -and the edifices erected here could scarcely be distinguished in -character of design from those of the early English period in England.</p> - -<p>The pointed Gothic style, which, as we have seen, had its origin in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_47" id="page_47">{47}</a></span> the -North of France about the middle of the twelfth century, appeared in -England about 1170, but can scarcely be said to have reached Scotland -till after the close of the twelfth century. The Abbey of Arbroath, -founded by William the Lion in 1178, contains a few traces of transition -work, passing later into first pointed; and other structures containing -a good deal of Norman design were erected in Scotland as late as 1210. -The Anglicising process, begun in the twelfth century, was continued in -the thirteenth century. The Orders of the Cathedrals were founded on -those of England. “Thus the Chapter of Glasgow took that of Salisbury as -its guide; Dunkeld copied from the same type, venerable in its -associations with the name of St. Osmund, whose ‘use of Sarum’ obtained -generally throughout Scotland. Elgin or Murray sent to Lincoln for its -pattern, and transmitted it, with certain modifications, to Aberdeen and -Caithness. So it was also with the Monasteries—Canterbury was the -mother of Dunfermline, Durham of Coldingham; St. Oswald’s at Oxstall, -near Pontefract, was the parent of Scone, and through that house of St. -Andrews and Holyrood. Melrose and Dundrennan were daughters of Rievaux -in the North Riding; Dryburgh was the offspring of Alnwick, Paisley of -Wenlock.”<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a></p> - -<p>Building in Scotland appears to have gone on in the thirteenth century -as busily and with the same enthusiasm as in the previous century. But -being far from the seat of the origin of the pointed style, and having -received the principles of that style at second hand through England, -time was required for its adoption in the North, and even when cordially -welcomed there, some of the features of the earlier Romanesque still -lingered and were slowly dispossessed.</p> - -<p>The pointed arch, for example, although generally adopted, did not -entirely displace, as it had done in the South, the round form of the -Normans, a feature which, especially in doorways, continued to be -employed not only in the thirteenth century, but throughout the whole -course of Gothic art in Scotland. In other respects, the thirteenth -century style in this country corresponds very closely with that of -England. Its features are, however, generally speaking, plainer and the -structures are smaller. But the forms of the doors, windows, buttresses, -piers, &c., and the mouldings and enrichments are similar in character. -The wall openings frequently have the shafts detached and carrying -moulded caps, with round abacus, and the arch mouldings are arranged in -orders, each set on a rectangular plan over the shafts. The piers are -usually solid, with bold clustered mouldings and rounded caps. The -windows are almost invariably of the lancet form, either single or -arranged in couplets or triplets in the wall.</p> - -<p>As time progressed, these detached lancets were brought together<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_48" id="page_48">{48}</a></span> into -groups, the wall space was gradually thinned off, so as to form mullions -between them, and frequently all are enclosed within a single arch. This -naturally led to the panel or shield in the arch being perforated with a -circle, trefoil, or other aperture, and toward the close of the period -there were indications of the introduction of the earlier form of -tracery. We have fine examples of the first arrangement at Dunblane, and -of the embryo tracery at Glasgow.</p> - -<p>As in the twelfth century a large extension was given to monastic -churches and parish churches, so it is to the thirteenth century that we -are indebted for the commencement and partial erection of most of our -cathedrals.</p> - -<p>The style of this period is fully represented in our cathedrals by the -splendid crypt and choir of Glasgow, the beautiful nave of Dunblane, the -fine, but now dilapidated, transept of Dryburgh, and the aisleless choir -of Brechin. In Elgin Cathedral we have a noble example of the later -design of the period, and the choir and western portal of Kirkwall form -a worthy completion to that fine old Norman edifice. Dornoch once -possessed the small and elegant cathedral of the North, erected by St. -Gilbert, which has now, however, been almost completely rebuilt.</p> - -<p>The conventual establishments of the thirteenth century, although -chiefly of older foundation, still contain a large proportion of the -work of this period. Arbroath Abbey comprises in its ruins some good -transitional and early pointed work. Holyrood Abbey, besides a good deal -of the transition style, had one of the finest west doorways of the -period, and still retains a very striking north-west tower. The first -pointed architecture is also well represented at the abbeys of -Dundrennan, Pluscardine, and Inchmahome, besides smaller specimens in -other monasteries. Kilwinning Abbey, now reduced to a portion of the -south transept, shows some beautiful work. The Maison Dieu at Brechin is -also very pure first pointed, and at Culross, Restennet, Inchcolm, and -Coldingham are many interesting fragments of this date.</p> - -<p>The thirteenth century parish churches are, for the most part, of small -dimensions and simple design. They generally consist of a single oblong -chamber, without choir or aisles, and are unprovided with towers. Of -these simple buildings a considerable number are to be found in the -Western Highlands and Islands. They are usually of the plainest -description, the windows being simple lancets, with wide internal splay, -though they have occasionally a double window with a mullion, and a -single plain doorway. A large number of these chapels will be described, -but, from the absence of any distinctive features connected with them, -it will be found difficult to assign most of them to any definite -period.</p> - -<p>The chapel at Dunstaffnage Castle, and the Church of St. Columba<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> at -Skipness, are somewhat exceptional, from the amount of dog-tooth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_49" id="page_49">{49}</a></span> -ornament exhibited by the former, and the two-light traceried windows at -the east end of the latter, which clearly indicate their thirteenth -century origin; while at other churches on the West Coast the lancet -windows and similar first pointed features lead to the conclusion that -many of them belong to the same period. These island chapels are, -doubtless, survivals of the first pointed structures which were erected -in the thirteenth century throughout the country, but which have been -subsequently removed to make way for larger churches.</p> - -<p>As the most of the Scottish cathedrals and large monastic churches were -planned during this or the preceding century, it may be well here to -mention some particulars regarding their arrangements.</p> - -<p>In most of the conventual edifices the choir, including the presbytery, -is short as compared with the nave. Thus, at Arbroath, the arcades of -the choir are as 3 to 9 in relation to those of the nave; at Jedburgh, -as 2 to 9; at Melrose, as 2 to 8, in the present ruined condition of the -church, but originally probably as 2 to 12; at Dryburgh, as 2 to 6. -Kelso is a remarkable exception, the choir having been much longer than -the nave, the latter being of a single bay. The cathedrals, however, -show a proportion more in accordance with the usual practice in England. -Elgin Cathedral has in the choir (including the presbytery) 6 bays, and -the same number in the nave; St. Andrews had 5 in the choir to 12 in the -nave, Glasgow has 5 to 8, Dunblane has 6 to 8, Dunkeld has 4 to 7.</p> - -<p>Another peculiarity of the Scottish churches is that in several the -choir is without aisles, as at Brechin, Dunkeld, and Sweetheart Abbey; -and in others, as at Melrose, Iona, Elgin, St. Andrews, &c., the side -aisles do not extend so as to include the presbytery, the object -evidently being to admit of side lights in the latter, which thus -becomes a kind of rectangular apse.</p> - -<p>Transepts are frequently, if not entirely, absent, as at Glasgow, where -the transept is very short, and at Dunblane and Dunkeld, where there are -none. When a transept exists, as at Melrose, Pluscardine, &c., there is -frequently a side aisle on the eastern side only, for the purpose of -containing chapels with altars facing in that direction. This -arrangement was common in Cistercian churches, but in Scotland it is not -confined to that Order. In some churches where there is a transept, the -shortness of the choir has made it necessary to carry the choir screen -across the intersection and some distance down the nave. This is very -apparent at Melrose, where the rood screen enclosing the choir crosses -the nave about the centre, and is evidently part of the original design, -as the rood screen has formed a portion of the structure of the nave -piers.</p> - -<p>Elgin Cathedral and Melrose Abbey have double aisles—the former on each -side of the nave, and the latter on the south side only, where the outer -aisle is divided into a series of chapels. In St. Giles’, Edinburgh, a -series of chapels forming a large second south aisle extends beyond the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_50" id="page_50">{50}</a></span> -usual south aisle. The above double aisles are, however, all of later -than thirteenth century date.</p> - -<p>The minor features of the first pointed style will be considered in -detail in describing the various structures of the thirteenth century. -Meanwhile, it may be mentioned that the doorways of this period, -although not so rich in ornament as the Norman work, are still important -objects in the design. The western portal of Kirkwall Cathedral is -especially fine, being the only example of a design comprising triple -western doorways in Scotland. The west doorway of Elgin Cathedral is -very beautiful, and is, like that of Glasgow Cathedral, a double doorway -with a central mullion. There are also examples of fine doorways in the -smaller churches, such as Lanark, and interesting specimens in the minor -doorways of the cathedral and monastic churches.</p> - -<p>The lancet form of the windows has already been referred to. We may -instance the east windows of Glasgow Cathedral and the beautiful windows -of Elgin and Dunblane Cathedrals as splendid examples. In the latter -cathedral the interior arcade of the clerestory shows the advancing -progress of the style; and at New Abbey the double and triplet forms of -window are seen passing into tracery. In the clerestory of this abbey -the advanced ornament of the period is observable, the simple form of -the early moulded capitals being replaced by the later foliaged design.</p> - -<p>No towers of importance remain in the style of the thirteenth century, -most of those attached to the churches of that style having been erected -at a later date.</p> - -<h3>ARCHITECTURE OF FOURTEENTH, FIFTEENTH, AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES IN SCOTLAND.</h3> - -<p>The reigns of Alexander II. and III., extending from 1214 to 1286, -comprised the first pointed work in Scotland. Those reigns were -characterised by quietness and prosperity at home and peace abroad. The -Norman invasion of the previous century seemed to have become complete, -and the country had settled down and accepted the new conditions -imported from the South, both as regards matters secular and -ecclesiastic. The king’s writ extended all over the land, except in the -Western and Northern Islands, and the Roman rule in ecclesiastical -affairs was co-extensive with it. The country was prosperous, and is -believed to have been more wealthy than at any time till after the Union -with England. These conditions favoured architecture, and, coming as -they did in the first pointed period, the consequence was that the -edifices erected during the thirteenth century were the largest and -contained the finest architecture which Scotland can boast of. But this -fortunate state of matters was doomed to a sudden extinction. The -disputed succession following the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_51" id="page_51">{51}</a></span> death of the third Alexander, in -1286, opened to Edward I. an opportunity for endeavouring to complete -the Norman conquest of the country. This, as we have seen, had been -already achieved so far as social relations were concerned, and Edward -resolved that it should also be so politically.</p> - -<p>The resistance of the country and Edward’s hostile attitude had the -immediate effect of causing the withdrawal of the Norman settlers, who -owed allegiance to Edward for their estates in England, along with their -dependants. These carried with them much of the civilisation and culture -which they had introduced. Moreover, the incessant state of war and -disturbance which arose during the struggle for independence, and lasted -over so many years, put a stop to all commerce and agriculture, and -reduced the country to a condition of the utmost poverty and barbarism.</p> - -<p>Even after King Robert’s death, in 1329, a part of the South of Scotland -remained in the hands of the English for a considerable time, and -suffered much from lying in the track of war.</p> - -<p>Melrose Abbey had been partly rebuilt through the pious devotion of King -Robert, but in 1385, this and other abbeys in the south-eastern -district, together with the town of Edinburgh, including St. Giles’ -Church, were again destroyed by Richard II.</p> - -<p>In the midst of all these depressing influences it is obvious that the -ecclesiastical architecture of the country must for a long time not only -have suffered a total cessation from progress, but must also have -endured severe injury.</p> - -<p>It has been pointed out how deep was the poverty of the country during -the fourteenth century, and with what difficulty the nobles, amongst -whom Bruce had distributed the forfeited lands, were able to raise even -a small pele tower for the defence of themselves and their -retainers.<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> The Church, patriotic as it was, suffered in the general -distress, and for a time funds were lacking for the completion of works -in progress, or the execution of new undertakings.</p> - -<p>In these circumstances, it is vain to look in Scotland for much -architecture during the fourteenth century. This being the period during -which Gothic art reached its highest expression, both in England and -abroad, it is unfortunate for Scottish architecture that it should be so -imperfectly represented by edifices worthy of that time.</p> - -<p>The country may be said not to have recovered from the impoverishment of -the war of independence till the fifteenth century was well advanced, -and when that period arrived, the desire for the erection of cathedrals -and establishment of monasteries had to a large extent ceased, and -endowments were, after that time, principally devoted to the erection of -smaller structures in the nature of Collegiate Institutions.</p> - -<p>The connection with England having now been completely severed, and a -political alliance having been formed with France, it is natural to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_52" id="page_52">{52}</a></span> -find a departure in the architecture of Scotland from the close -resemblance to that of England which had hitherto characterised it, and -to detect the introduction of features from abroad. These elements play -an important part in the architecture of the end of the fifteenth -century and succeeding period, and produce a mixed style, not distinctly -the same either as that of the perpendicular in England, or of the -Flamboyant in France, but a style peculiar to Scotland, which includes -elements derived from both these styles, and also retains some features -of the earlier phases of Gothic architecture. This style has a distinct -character of its own, and is in Scotland parallel to the third period of -Gothic both in England and France.</p> - -<p>The paucity of examples in Scotland during the fourteenth century, and -the absence in the succeeding century of any distinctly marked features -assimilating Scottish architecture especially either to the -perpendicular or Flamboyant styles of the later pointed epochs of -England and France, have led writers on the architecture of Scotland to -the conclusion that this country was entirely devoid of any -representatives of the decorated or middle pointed style, as -distinguished from the late or third pointed period, and they have, -therefore, included all Scottish architecture after the first or early -pointed period under the title of second pointed.<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> We are satisfied -that this is a mistake, and we trust to be able to show that Scotland, -although somewhat scantily represented by its architecture during the -decorated period in England, does possess a fair number of parallel -buildings corresponding in style to the decorated work of other -countries, although erected at a somewhat later date, and also that the -third or late pointed period is fully represented.</p> - -<p>The wars had rendered the country backward in every respect, and it is -only natural to find it backward in architecture also.</p> - -<p>As already mentioned, King Robert’s work at Melrose had been grievously -damaged by Richard II.; but some of it remains, and in this, as well as -other structures of the period, are exhibited beautiful examples of -decorated work.</p> - -<p>A considerable number of churches and monastic buildings executed about -the end of the fourteenth and first half of the fifteenth centuries are -fair representatives of the decorated period. Although not so pure in -style, nor so important in point of size as the corresponding edifices -in England, they yet exhibit, on a scale commensurate with the reduced -state of the country, a worthy effort to sustain the character of its -architecture and give expression to its devotional feelings. Some of -these structures were erected in the fourteenth century and others in -the first half of the fifteenth century, and although differing somewhat -in detail from both English and foreign examples, they possess a -sufficiently close relation to decorated work to ally them with that -style and to distinguish them<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_53" id="page_53">{53}</a></span> from the structures of the later or third -pointed period. The buildings of the latter period, as above mentioned, -have in some respects connection both with the English perpendicular and -the French Flamboyant.</p> - -<p>It is therefore proposed to divide the Church Architecture of Scotland -during the fourteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries into two -periods, under the titles of the Middle Pointed or Decorated Period and -the Third or Late Pointed Period. The middle pointed or decorated style -corresponds to the decorated period in England and the fully developed -Gothic of France, and extends in Scotland from the middle of the -fourteenth century till about the middle of the fifteenth century. The -third or late pointed period extends from about the middle of the -fifteenth century till the Reformation in 1560, and corresponds with the -perpendicular or third pointed period in England and the Flamboyant in -France. The second pointed period includes a few fine structures, such -as the nave of Glasgow Cathedral, part of Melrose Abbey, Lincluden -College, Linlithgow Church, Crosraguel Abbey, &c., which contain good -decorated work, and are in every respect superior to the later -structures of the succeeding period, with which it seems to us erroneous -to class them.</p> - -<h3>MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED STYLE.</h3> - -<p>Towards the close of the thirteenth century a considerable change -occurred in the features of Gothic architecture throughout Europe. The -development of the pointed style had progressed steadily, and all the -details had become lighter and more ornate. The tracery of the windows -especially marks the decorated period. This feature, as we have seen, -was invented in the previous epoch, but now became fully developed, -especially in France. In the design of the tracery the eye, which at -first had been fixed on the form of the aperture, gradually came to -dwell on the outline of the bars of the tracery, which thereafter became -the leading feature. (<a href="#fig_23">Fig. 23.</a>) The early simple circular forms of the -bar tracery by degrees assumed other geometric patterns, consisting of -triangles, squares, and similar figures, skilfully combined and -diversified with cusping or feathering. Towards the close of the period -these figures assumed a more flowing character, but without entirely -losing their distinctive geometric forms.</p> - -<p>In England the vaulting grew lighter, and became distinguished by the -introduction of subordinate ribs or liernes, which divided the plain -surface into a greater number of panels, and ridge ribs were almost -always introduced. The points of support were also lightened, and the -buttresses were made thinner and with greater projection, and ornamented -with numerous niches and crocheted canopies and pinnacles. The -clerestory windows under the vaults were enlarged, as it was discovered -that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_54" id="page_54">{54}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_23" id="fig_23"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_054.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_054.png" width="374" height="588" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 23.</span>—Beverley Minster, Yorkshire. Compartment of -Nave, Exterior and Interior. (From Britton’s <i>Antiquities</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_55" id="page_55">{55}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the solid walls between the buttresses might be dispensed with, and -their place completely filled with window tracery. The clerestory was -thus enlarged, and the triforium reduced to a mere passage, or entirely -dispensed with. From the same cause the windows of the east and west -ends, and those of the façades of the transepts, were also enlarged to -the fullest extent, so that nearly the whole space became occupied with -tracery and stained glass.</p> - -<p>The doorways in England, although still much smaller than those of -France, are, notwithstanding, often very fine, as, for instance, those -of York Minster (<a href="#fig_24">Fig. 24</a>). The shafts of the jambs, which in the -previous period were detached and set in nooks, are now converted by -degrees into a series of mouldings wrought upon the jamb stones, and -arranged in one plane. The caps, at first distinct, gradually pass into -a series of foliaceous scrolls running along the top of the whole jamb.</p> - -<p>The piers are similarly treated. The clustered shafts give place to -mouldings, and the caps become carved with running ornament. The plan of -the piers is frequently that of a lozenge. A four-centred arch, forming -an ogee or reversed curve, is now introduced in water tables over -doorways. The arch mouldings are still boldly cut, and are separated by -well-marked and deep hollows, but grow shallower and broader as time -advances. The carving and foliage become lighter and more naturalistic, -the ordinary leaves and flowers of the fields being beautifully wrought -in the capitals, corbels, and bosses. The detached ball flower is a -striking feature of this period. Every wall opening is cusped and -feathered, and the niches and arcades are richly decorated. The use of -small decorative buttresses on the jambs of the doors, windows, and -niches now becomes common.</p> - -<p>In France the progression of the style is similar, but shows a livelier -and bolder development. There a stone vault is always essential, whereas -in England open wooden roofs are often adopted with fine result.</p> - -<h3>MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED STYLE IN SCOTLAND.</h3> - -<p>For the reasons above stated, the middle pointed work in Scotland is -somewhat varied from that of England and the Continent, especially in -details. It also extends over a longer space of time, and gradually -merges into the succeeding or third pointed style.</p> - -<p>Until Bruce was firmly established on the throne, church building was -entirely at a standstill. But after 1314, architecture received some -encouragement from the king and began to revive. Melrose Abbey was -especially the recipient of the royal bounty, and during the fourteenth -century was, doubtless, in great measure rebuilt. It still retains much -of the decorated work of that period, and is amongst our finest -examples<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_56" id="page_56">{56}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_24" id="fig_24"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_056.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_056.png" width="431" height="576" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 24.</span>—York Cathedral. West Front. (From Britton’s -<i>Cathedrals</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_57" id="page_57">{57}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">of the style. Dryburgh Abbey and Crosraguel Abbey were also encouraged -in their works of restoration by King Robert, and still show partial -specimens of middle pointed architecture. Glasgow Cathedral also still -preserves, almost unimpaired, its fine nave of the fourteenth century. -The nave and central tower were evidently completed before 1400, as in -that year the latter was destroyed by lightning.</p> - -<p>The list of churches containing specimens of middle pointed work could -be easily extended, and will be fully gone into in the sequel. -Meanwhile, the following may be mentioned as undoubtedly exhibiting -genuine examples—viz., Sweetheart Abbey and Lincluden College, in -Kirkcudbrightshire, which contain portions of early decorated work; -Linlithgow Church, rebuilt after 1424, when it was greatly destroyed by -fire; Fortrose Cathedral; St. Giles’ Church, Edinburgh; Brechin -Cathedral; Elgin Chapterhouse.</p> - -<p>The above buildings extend down to about 1450-60, which may be regarded -as the limit of the decorated or middle pointed period in Scotland.</p> - -<p>The transition to the third pointed style was gradual.</p> - -<p>Trinity Collegiate Church, which existed till 1848, in Edinburgh, -although not founded till 1462, preserved in the interior the character -of good middle pointed work, and is classed by Rickman as a “decorated” -structure, But the exterior shows signs of the later style, and this -structure, like several others, may therefore be classed as -transitional.</p> - -<p>It must be kept in view that many of the above churches of the second -pointed period were subjected to damage by fire, and having in -consequence to undergo repairs at a later date, exhibit signs of a -mixture of styles. Thus, Melrose, Dryburgh, and St. Giles’, Edinburgh, -were destroyed by Richard II. during his expedition in 1385, and -consequently show in the subsequent restorations some work of a rather -late character, mingled with the earlier decorated features. This -mingling of the work of different dates no doubt renders somewhat -difficult the elimination of the features due to the various epochs, and -has probably contributed to the erroneous view above referred to—viz., -that all Scottish architecture after 1300 belongs to the same style, and -should be classed as “second pointed.”</p> - -<p>With regard to the whole of the later architecture of Scotland, however, -whether we consider the middle pointed or the third pointed periods, we -think there can be no doubt but that it is all the work of native -architects. Had the design owed its origin to either English or French -architects, it would have more closely resembled the design of the -perpendicular in England or Flamboyant in France. But being entirely -different from either of these styles, although partaking to some extent -of the features of both, and being also much later in date than the -corresponding styles of these countries, the only conclusion<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_58" id="page_58">{58}</a></span> which can -be drawn is, that the architecture of the middle pointed and third -pointed periods in this country was wrought out by native hands. Old -forms were long adhered to and new features were slowly adopted, and -when adopted were not followed entirely or exactly in accordance with -the original model, but with certain distinct modifications in details.</p> - -<p>The mouldings are generally rather massive and heavy. The buttresses (as -at Melrose) strongly resemble English middle pointed work. The pier and -arch mouldings are not quite so light and well marked as in England, and -the tracery of the windows, although geometric, is not always so elegant -as in the South.</p> - -<p>Good chapterhouses and sacristies of this period still exist at Glasgow, -Crosraguel, Pluscardine, and elsewhere, which are square, and have a -central pillar supporting groined vaulting. The very elegant -chapterhouse of Elgin Cathedral is octagonal, and beautifully vaulted -with a central pillar.</p> - -<h3>THIRD OR LATE POINTED STYLE.</h3> - -<p>In the latter half of the fourteenth century, Gothic art, both in France -and England, again showed symptoms of a change of character. In France -the architects seemed to have exhausted their powers of development as -regards constructional elements, and were now occupied with the -elaboration of details. The earlier geometric tracery now assumed a very -flowing character, which, from the flame-like shapes of the bars of the -stone work, was called “Flamboyant.” In England, on the other hand, the -tracery assumed a rigid form, and from the mullions of the windows being -carried up in straight lines from the sill to the arch, the style -received the name of “perpendicular.” (<a href="#fig_25">Fig. 25.</a>) In many respects, -connected with ornament and decoration, the styles of the two countries -resembled each other, but in one respect they differed widely. In France -the simple intersecting pointed vault was never departed from, but in -England the development of the vaulting into new forms made great -progress at this period. It has been mentioned that in their “decorated” -work the English had begun, in the thirteenth century, to introduce -“liernes” or intermediate ribs into the vaults. This process still -continued and advanced till the vaulting surface became covered with -ribs. (<a href="#fig_26">Fig. 26.</a>) The ribs were latterly used as ornamental features, -spread over the surface of the vault, which again became the supporting -arched surface, as it was before the introduction of Gothic bearing ribs -in the twelfth century. A favourite form of this kind of vaulting is -known from its appearance as fan vaulting. In working out this kind of -vaulting, it was found desirable to bring all the ribs to the same level -at the apex, and in order to accomplish this it was found convenient to -use arches of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_59" id="page_59">{59}</a></span> double curvature, or four centred arches, a depressed -form which is characteristic of perpendicular work.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_25" id="fig_25"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_059.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_059.png" width="424" height="514" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 25.</span>—York Cathedral. View of the East End. (From -Britton’s <i>Cathedrals</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>From this peculiarity there followed many changes in style almost -unknown abroad. The use of the depressed arch in the vault soon led to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_60" id="page_60">{60}</a></span> -its adoption in the clerestory windows placed under the vault, and from -these it spread to the other windows, and ultimately to all the arches -of the building. From these features a perpendicular structure is at -once recognisable. The panelling of the vaults led, in sympathy, to -panelling in the wall surfaces, in the buttresses, and everywhere. A -linear system of ornamentation was thus produced, which was developed to -an extreme degree—the mouldings were thinned off till they became mere -strings, with wide shallow hollows between, and all interruption to the -stringy or liney effect thus produced was objected to. Thus the caps of -shafts were almost abolished, and the thin arch mouldings carried down -the piers without interruption from the arch to the base. The piers were -divided up with large shallow hollows or splays, and the subordination -of mouldings was lost. When caps were used they were generally small and -octagonal in shape, and stood meaningless amidst a cluster of mouldings. -Doorways were less deeply recessed than formerly, and the four-centred -arch was usually enclosed in a square moulding, the spandrils between -the square head and the arch being filled with tracery or sculpture, -often of a heraldic nature.</p> - -<p>In France the two-centred arch was adhered to, and traceried windows -were frequently introduced over doorways. Some of the carving, both at -home and in France, is executed with great delicacy and spirit, but much -of the foliage is of a very conventional form peculiar to the period. In -running ornaments the stems frequently become more important than the -leaves, thus carrying out the thin linear character of the style.</p> - -<p>The English architects always showed a fondness for wooden roofs, and at -this the latest period of Gothic these open timber constructions became -very common. In France, on the contrary, vaulted roofs were preferred -till the revival of classic art.</p> - -<h3>THIRD OR LATE POINTED STYLE IN SCOTLAND.</h3> - -<p>During the latter part of the fifteenth and in the sixteenth centuries -the erection of cathedrals and monasteries in Scotland was almost -entirely superseded by collegiate churches. These structures are -generally designed on a cruciform plan, with a central tower over the -crossing. They have usually a porch at the south-west and a sacristy at -the north-east angle, and occasionally one or more chantry chapels -attached. Except in the larger examples of collegiate churches, such as -St. Giles’ and Trinity College, Edinburgh, aisles are rarely introduced, -and groined vaulting, although used in the above structures, is also -uncommon. The churches are generally covered with pointed barrel vaults, -for the most part plain, but sometimes ornamented with ribs applied to -the barrel surface. The latter style of decoration is sometimes employed -in the vaulting over the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_61" id="page_61">{61}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_26" id="fig_26"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_061.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_061.png" width="399" height="531" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 26.</span>—Winchester Cathedral. West End of the Nave. -(From Britton’s <i>Chronological History of English Architecture</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_62" id="page_62">{62}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">presbytery, so as to distinguish it by its richness. This class of -vaulting carries out in its simplest elements the principle adopted at -this period in England of making the vaulting surface more important -than the ribs, and using the latter as ornaments upon the surface of the -vault.</p> - -<p>The exterior of the churches is generally marked by rather heavy -buttresses, crowned with small and debased-looking pinnacles. The -buttresses have often a great many set-offs. In other examples -buttresses are entirely omitted. The doorways vary considerably. The -semi-circular arch, which is sometimes preserved in the earlier styles, -is now of very frequent use, not only in doorways, but also in pier -arcades and clerestories (as at Paisley and Dunkeld). Elliptic arches -and three-sided door heads are also used.</p> - -<p>At this period we find indications of English influence in a few -perpendicular traceries, as at Melrose Abbey, and of French influence in -some Flamboyant forms, and in the three or five sided apse which -frequently forms the eastern termination of the churches. Western and -central towers are usual features, generally rather squat in form, and -sometimes surmounted with a short spire, having numerous small lucarnes -and pinnacles. Four of these towers were once finished with spires of -open work resembling a crown, but the number is now reduced to -two—viz., St. Giles’, Edinburgh, and King’s College, Old Aberdeen.</p> - -<p>The piers are often of a plain circular form, and the arches have -frequently plain chamfers instead of mouldings. The caps of piers are -peculiar and heavy, the abacus consisting of a deep series of mouldings. -Grotesque ornaments and large flowers are common, and frequently of -rather coarse design; but in some instances, as in the cloisters of -Melrose, the ornaments are beautifully sculptured.</p> - -<p>A revival of early enrichments, such as the dog-tooth or nail-head, is a -curious characteristic of this period, as it was also in the case of the -late domestic architecture. Other early features are also revived, such -as detached shafts, with well-marked caps and bases of early form. This -is specially observable at Iona and in Argyleshire and the Western -Islands, where, as already mentioned, a peculiar style prevailed.</p> - -<p>In course of time, as pointed out elsewhere,<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a> the ecclesiastical -elements were invaded by the features of domestic architecture, and a -mixed, but picturesque, style was developed which had more of a Scottish -than a Gothic aspect.</p> - -<p>Many examples of Scottish structures of the third period will be -illustrated. The buildings, though comparatively small, are numerous and -interesting, as they illustrate a specially Scottish branch of Gothic -architecture. They consist largely of collegiate edifices, and amongst -them is the well-known collegiate church of Roslyn.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_63" id="page_63">{63}</a></span></p> - -<p>A number of churches showing the mixture of domestic and ecclesiastical -features which prevailed in the latter half of the sixteenth and -seventeenth century have already been illustrated, as above indicated.</p> - -<p>That series of churches will be continued so as to exhaust the subject.</p> - -<p>The contrast they present with the churches of the earlier centuries is -very striking, and affords much food for reflection.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_063.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_063.png" height="219" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_64" id="page_64">{64}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_064.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_064.png" width="427" height="360" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>Egilsay Church. From South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_65" id="page_65">{65}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_CELTIC_MONASTIC_AND_ECCLESIASTICAL_STRUCTURES_IN_SCOTLAND" id="THE_CELTIC_MONASTIC_AND_ECCLESIASTICAL_STRUCTURES_IN_SCOTLAND"></a>THE CELTIC MONASTIC AND ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES IN SCOTLAND,<br /><br /> -<small>CHIEFLY AS ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIBED IN THE WORKS OF THE LATE T. S. MUIR.</small></h2> - -<p>It has been shown in the Introduction that Christianity was brought to -Scotland in the sixth century by the Celtic missionaries from Ireland, -and that, after it had endured for seven centuries, the monastic Church -of the Columbans, was superseded by the Roman ecclesiastical system. -Each of these phases of Christianity possessed its own form of -architecture—the one derived from the features peculiar to the Celtic -style of building, and the other from the development of the Romanesque -architecture general throughout Europe. The latter began to take effect -in Scotland about the beginning of the twelfth century, while the -former, which had existed from a very early date, continued to prevail -in certain parts of the country long after that period.</p> - -<p>We shall first consider the structures of the oldest or Celtic style. -The earliest examples of ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland are, -doubtless, the rude structures built with uncemented stones, which still -survive in some of the remote islands off the coast, chiefly in the -Western seas.</p> - -<p>These islands, as well as the mainland of Scotland, have been visited -again and again by the late Mr. T. S. Muir, who has embodied the results -of his peregrinations in his volume on the <i>Characteristics of Old -Church Architecture in Scotland</i> (1861), and in his <i>Ecclesiological -Notes on some of the Islands of Scotland</i> (1885)—the latter containing -a <i>resumé</i> of a number of charming little volumes produced by Mr. Muir -at different times. Mr. Muir’s account of his repeated visits to the -outlying islands is very quaint and entertaining, and shows that he has -been inspired with an enthusiasm for ecclesiology very rarely equalled. -He has certainly been the discoverer of many extremely interesting -structures, which serve to show the connection between the early -Christianity of Ireland and Scotland and the gradual development in this -country of a style of ecclesiastical architecture similar to that of the -parent isle.</p> - -<p>The condition and features of the numerous cells and churches which Mr. -Muir visited many years ago, when they were in a more perfect state than -they now are, have been so fully described and illustrated by him<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_66" id="page_66">{66}</a></span> that -it would appear to be a work of supererogation to follow his footsteps -and investigate them over again. We have, therefore, adopted his -descriptions and illustrations, and have prepared an abstract of the -numerous materials scattered throughout his works, arranged, as far as -possible, in accordance with the historical sequence of the types of the -buildings, and described in Mr. Muir’s own words.</p> - -<p>Dr. Joseph Anderson has pointed out, in his <i>Scotland in Early Christian -Times</i>, that the early churches of Scotland, like those of Ireland, -consisted of a single oblong chamber, with one door and one window, and -that these structures were frequently found associated with beehive huts -and surrounded by a cashel or rampart.<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a></p> - -<p>We have in Scotland several examples of similar churches associated with -beehive huts, and sometimes surrounded by a wall. Examples also occur of -groups of chapels resembling the well-known similar groups in Ireland.</p> - -<p>The following are descriptions of these structures, chiefly extracted -from Mr. Muir’s works.</p> - -<h2><a name="I" id="I"></a>I. SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES, ASSOCIATED WITH BEEHIVE CELLS AND CHURCHES IN -GROUPS.</h2> - -<h3>EILEAN NAOMH, <span class="smcap">Argyleshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>An extremely interesting example of the remains of an early monastic -establishment on the Irish model is that on Eilean Naomh, one of the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_27" id="fig_27"></a><a name="fig_28" id="fig_28"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_066.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_066.png" width="370" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 27.</span> <span class="smcap">Fig. 28.</span></p> - -<p>Eilean Naomh. Beehive Hut.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Garvelloch Islands, which lie about three miles west of Lunga, off the -coast of Argyleshire. About the middle of the island, and on the -south-east side, stand the ruins of several structures. “One of the -largest and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_67" id="page_67">{67}</a></span> most entire is obviously a church internally 21 feet 7 -inches in length, constructed, like all the other buildings, of rude -masonry, in which no lime or cement of any kind has been used. Excepting -the gables, which are wanting, the walls are perfect, but present -nothing in the way of detail more important than a square-headed doorway -of slightly tapering form in the west end, and a small square-headed -window splayed on both sides, but mostly on the interior, in the east -end, flanked on its south by a projecting shelf of slate, which seems to -have been an altar.”<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> The enclosures of what were probably the garden -and the burying-ground are visible south of the church.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_29" id="fig_29"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_067.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_067.png" height="307" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 29.</span>—Eilean Naomh.</p> - -<p>Twin Beehive Huts.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Mr. Muir then describes “another building, an underground cell of -irregular oval shape (<a href="#fig_27">Fig. 27</a>), measuring 5 feet 4 inches by 4 feet 5 -inches, with a depth of rather more than 4 feet. The roof is formed -simply by a few heavy slabs laid across the walls on a level with the -ground outside, and the entrance is by a slanting aperture (<a href="#fig_28">Fig. 28</a>), -just where the roof and the walls unite. Two other buildings (<a href="#fig_29">Fig. 29</a>), -forming a part of this curious group, remain to be described. These are -dome-shaped and joined together; the larger one internally 14 feet in -diameter, the other about a foot less. The two buildings communicate -with each other by means of a square-shaped doorway through the point of -contact, and the larger one with the outside by another doorway of the -like kind facing the south-west; but with the exception of a square -aperture at the ground, more like a gutter hole than a door, there is no -external opening in the smaller building.”<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> The dome of the smaller -structure is complete, but that of the larger is ruined. (<a href="#fig_30">Fig. 30.</a>)</p> - -<p>The island of Naomh was often visited by Columba, and the establishment -of which the above fragments are the remains is believed to have been -that originally founded by St. Brendan, and afterwards refounded by -Columba. Near the shore St. Columba’s well still survives.</p> - -<p>One cannot fail to recognise in the above description a striking<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_68" id="page_68">{68}</a></span> -resemblance to the early monastic establishments of Ireland. We here -find the same dry-built quadrilateral church, with door having sloping -jambs, and the same beehive huts with domed roofs.<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_30" id="fig_30"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_068-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_068-a.png" width="313" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 30.</span>—Beehive Huts on Eilean Naomh. (From <i>Scotland -in Early Christian Times</i>.)</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>SKEABOST, <span class="smcap">Skye</span>.</h3> - -<p>“In an islet in the river Snizort at this place there is an open -burying-ground</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_31" id="fig_31"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_068-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_068-b.png" width="402" height="237" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 31.</span>—Skeabost, Skye. East Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_69" id="page_69">{69}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">containing a group of five or six chapels, the shell of two pretty -entire, the others reduced nearly to the ground. Of the former, the one -least perfect (<a href="#fig_31">Fig. 31</a>) is a featureless building, externally 82 feet in -length; the other—probably that mentioned in the <i>Originales -Parochiales</i> as dedicated to St. Columba—is externally 21 feet in -length, and has a flat-headed window (<a href="#fig_32">Fig. 32</a>), 2 feet in height and 6 -inches wide, in the east end, the west end blank. In</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_32" id="fig_32"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_069.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_069.png" width="145" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 32.</span>—Window, St. Columba, Skeabost, Skye.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the larger building there is a basin of a baptismal font, square, with -rounded corners.”<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a></p> - -<p>“On making the shore one is immediately struck with the intensely -ecclesiastical character of the spot. From end to end the islet is -covered with the remains of chapels.”<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a></p> - -<p>Here we find a group of chapels which were formerly surrounded by a -marsh, while fragments of an enclosing wall or rampart can also be -traced.</p> - -<h3>MUGSTOT, <span class="smcap">Skye</span>.</h3> - -<p>“Mugstot, properly Monkstead, stands on a slightly elevated spot -surrounded by a swampy meadow, formerly the bed of a lake, some two or -three miles from Uig, in the direction of Kilmuir Kirk. Like Skeabost, -it exhibits a group of greatly ruinated buildings, three in number, -standing in a line from north to south. The southernmost building, which -is 22 feet long inside, and pointed east and west, is the least -dilapidated, and evidently the Chapel of St. Columba mentioned by -Martin. The intermediate ruins are little more than the foundations of -an oblong building, 49 feet in length, and standing north and south.” -Then follows a description of what has apparently been a circular -cashel. “The other building is of oval form, measuring internally about -62 feet east and west, and 42 feet north and south, the walls composed -of irregularly-shaped stones, mostly of large size, uncemented, but -fitly put together. This building is very much broken down, but least -dilapidated on the east, where it is still some 7 or 8 feet high. Within -the area are observable the foundations of walls crossing each other at -right angles, the spaces between having probably been vaulted -cells.”<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_70" id="page_70">{70}</a></span></p> - -<h3>HOWMORE, <span class="smcap">South Uist</span>.</h3> - -<p>At Mr. Muir’s first visit there were here remains of a group of five -chapels (<a href="#fig_33">Fig. 33</a>) all close together, but on his second visit he found -one removed. “The missing one was a very characteristic building, the -smallest of the group, with a very narrow rectangular window and a short -<i>sloping</i> doorway in the east end. Externally it measured only 17½ feet -in length.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_33" id="fig_33"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_070.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_070.png" height="340" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 33.</span>—Hoghmore, South Uist.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Of those still remaining, the largest has been about 60 feet in length. -Scarcely anything of it is standing more than the east wall, a long -cruciform couplet [widely splayed inside and looking like first -pointed],[88] in which shows that the building had been the finest and -largest of the lot. The next largest is internally rather more than 54 -feet in length. Of it, also, the only remains is the east wall [pierced -with a narrow flat-headed window (<a href="#fig_34">Fig. 34</a>), 2 feet long and 6 inches -wide, extremely rude].<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_71" id="page_71">{71}</a></span> two other chapels are each about 20 feet -in length, not so much reduced, but with no features deserving notice. -[In the east gable there is a flat-headed window of very small size, and -on the south side there is one much of the same kind; on the north side -are remains of a doorway—the west end blank.]<a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> In two of the chapels -the altar is still extant, and there are also fine memorial slabs.”<a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a></p> - -<p>“Of the chapels, the largest is externally 20 feet in length,”<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> with -small flat-headed windows—west end blank. Of the two other chapels, the -largest is 19 feet 4 inches in length, with flat-topped window. The -other (now removed), 17 feet 7 inches long externally, by 11 feet 6 -inches wide; walls rudely built. The doorway, <i>with inclining jambs and -flat head</i>, was in the east end; above, in gable, a flat-headed window, -14 inches long by 3 inches wide.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_34" id="fig_34"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_071.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_071.png" width="157" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 34.</span>—Howmore. East Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>KILBAR, <span class="smcap">Barra</span>.</h3> - -<p>In a burying-ground, “three dilapidated chapels, resembling very much -those at Howmore. The largest (<a href="#fig_35">Fig. 35</a>) (supposed to be that of St. -Barr), (1) is externally 42 feet in length; the end walls nearly away, -the north and south walls nearly entire. The north side has a rude -triangular-headed doorway (<a href="#fig_36">Fig. 36</a>) enclosed in a semi-circular arch, -and a triangular-headed window on its east. In the south wall there are -three windows of the same form—two of them together near its east end, -and one near the west end. Against the east end the altar remains almost -entire. The next largest chapel (2) is externally 30 feet in length; it -is divided by a dead wall into two unequal apartments, each having a -flat-headed doorway on the south. The east end contains a flat-headed -window 16 inches in length by 3½ inches wide, and there are windows of -like kind in the side walls, the west one blank. Of the third and -smallest chapel (4), externally 18 feet 3 inches in length, very little -is left. At my first visit (July 1855) both ends were entire, the east -one containing a small flat-topped window, the west one blank; now (July -1866) the only detail is a narrow window at the eastern extremity of the -north wall, the head round, and formed of one stone.”<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a></p> - -<p>Another chapel at a little distance has been removed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_72" id="page_72">{72}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_35" id="fig_35"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_072-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_072-a.png" height="337" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 35.</span>—Kilbar, Barra.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_36" id="fig_36"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_072-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_072-b.png" width="291" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 36.</span>—Kilbar, St. Mary.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_73" id="page_73">{73}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="II" id="II"></a>II. HERMITS’ CELLS.</h2> - -<p>The above descriptions apply to groups of chapels similar to those in -Ireland. We shall now consider Mr. Muir’s descriptions of the rude -hermitages which he discovered on some of the remotest rocks round the -coast.</p> - -<h3>THE CHAPEL OF ST. RONAN, <span class="smcap">North Rona</span>.</h3> - -<p>The small solitary island of Rona lies about thirty-eight miles -north-eastwards from the Butt of Lewis, and about the same distance from -Cape Wrath. It is about one mile long and the same in width. Such an -island, so far from land, formed a meet spot for the dwelling of an -early Anchorite, and here is still preserved the Chapel of St. Ronan. -The island was twice visited by Mr. Muir, who thus describes the -chapel:—</p> - -<p>“Of this rude and diminutive building [the eastern chamber] not much can -be said. On the outside it is in most part a rounded heap of loose -stones, roofed over with turf. Within you find it a roughly-built cell -(<a href="#fig_37">Fig. 37</a>), 9 feet 3 inches in height, and at the floor 11 feet 6 inches -long and 7 feet 6 inches wide. The end walls lean inwardly a little, the -side ones so greatly that when they meet the flat slab-formed roof they -are scarcely 2 feet apart. (<a href="#fig_38">Fig. 38.</a>) Beyond the singularity of its -shape, there is</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_37" id="fig_37"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_073.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_073.png" height="443" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 37.</span>—Teampull Rona.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">nothing remarkable in the building, its only minute features being a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_74" id="page_74">{74}</a></span> -square doorway in the west end, so low that you have to creep through it -on your elbows and knees; a flat-headed window without splay on either -side, 19 inches long and 8 inches wide, set over the doorway (see <a href="#fig_38">Fig. -38.</a>); another window of like form and length, but an inch or two wider, -near the east end of the south wall; and the altar stone, 3 feet in -length, lying close to the east end.</p> - -<p>“Attached as a nave to the west end of the cell, and externally -co-extensive with it in breadth, are the remains of another chapel, -internally</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_38" id="fig_38"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_074.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_074.png" height="358" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 38.</span>—Teampull Rona. Interior West End Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>14 feet 8 inches in length, and 8 feet 3 inches in width. Except the -north one, which is considerably broken down, all the elevations are -nearly entire, the west one retaining a part of the gable. A rude -flat-headed doorway, 3 feet 5 inches in height and 2 feet 3 inches wide, -in the south wall, and a small window of the same shape eastward of it, -are the only details.</p> - -<p>“At what time either of these buildings was put up it is impossible to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_75" id="page_75">{75}</a></span> -say. Both are alike rude in their masonry, and between them there is -scarcely a difference in the character of their few inartistic details; -but be the age of the larger one what it may, the cell, which may be -termed the chancel of the structure at large, is certainly by many -hundred years the older erection, and in all probability the work of the -eighth or ninth century.”<a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a></p> - -<p>We have here an example of an ancient oratory enlarged by the addition -of a <i>nave</i> into a church with nave and chancel.</p> - -<h3>TEAMPULL SULA SGEIR.</h3> - -<p>On a narrow and lofty rock, not more than one-third of a mile in</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_39" id="fig_39"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_075.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_075.png" width="261" height="354" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 39.</span>—Teampull Sula Sgeir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">length, situated ten or twelve miles to the south-west of North Rona and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_76" id="page_76">{76}</a></span>about forty miles from the Butt of Lewis, there exists “a rude chapel, -with a stone roof, called Tigh Beannaichte (blessed house), internally -14 feet in length.”</p> - -<p>“In a comparatively level spot, closely surrounded by rocks, there is a -low, rough, oval-shaped chapel (<a href="#fig_39">Fig. 39</a>), internally measuring no more -than 14 feet in length [8 feet wide at the middle, and 6 feet 4 inches -at the ends],[74] the extreme antiquity of which there seems no reason -to question. On the outside (<a href="#fig_40">Fig. 40</a>) the roof of this primitive cell is -of curved form, but inside the rude vaulting, which may be said to -commence almost from the ground, finishes somewhat short of the summit -in so many heavy slabs laid horizontally across. Externally the building -is a little dilapidated at both ends, and so is the roof; but within it -is quite perfect, and seemingly noways altered from its original state. -Entrance to it is by a low and very narrow flat-topped doorway, with -sloping jambs [3 feet 5 inches in</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_40" id="fig_40"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_076.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_076.png" width="402" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 40.</span>—Teampull Sula Sgeir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">height, 16 inches wide at top and 22 inches at bottom]<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> in the south -wall. On its east is a small squared recess, and there is another recess -of the same kind in the west wall. The only window is a small one, of -squared form [2 feet 8 inches in length], in the east end, under which -is an altar, flanked by slabs, set on edge, and raised on a slightly -elevated dais, as is shown on the annexed plan.”<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_77" id="page_77">{77}</a></span></p> - -<h3>FLANNAIN ISLES, <small>OR</small> SEVEN HUNTERS.</h3> - -<p><span class="smcap">Several wild unapproachable Islands lying to the Westwards of Lewis</span>.</p> - -<p>Eilean Mòr, the largest of the group (about one-third of a mile in -extent), has precipitous sides and a flat grassy plain on the top, which -slopes to the south-west.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_41" id="fig_41"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_077.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_077.png" width="363" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 41.</span>—Teampull Beannachadh. West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>“The chapel of St. Flann, or Teampull Beannachadh (blessing) as it is -commonly called ... stands nakedly about the middle of the slope, -unenclosed and with no indications of having ever been surrounded by a -burial-ground. (Figs. <a href="#fig_41">41</a>, <a href="#fig_42">42.</a>) It is a very primitive looking thing, -composed of rough stones joggled compactly together without lime. The -form is a squared oblong, but not strictly regular, the external lengths -of the north and south walls being respectively 11 feet 11 inches and 12 -feet 2 inches, the east and west walls, 10 feet 3 inches and 9 feet 2 -inches respectively; [within the dimensions are—length 7 feet 3 inches; -width, 4 feet 5 inches.]<a name="FNanchor_76_76" id="FNanchor_76_76"></a> -<a href="#Footnote_76_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_78" id="page_78">{78}</a></span> The walls vary in thickness from 2 feet 5 -inches to 2 feet 11 inches, taper a little, and are covered with a stone -roof internally flat, but following the obtusely pointed or cradle form -of the gables on the outside. Externally,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_42" id="fig_42"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_078.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_078.png" width="373" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 42.</span>—Teampull Beannachadh. East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the total height of the cell is only 8 feet 6 inches; internally, 5 feet -9 inches. A narrow squared aperture, scarcely 3 feet in height [1 foot -10 inches in width],<a name="FNanchor_77_77" id="FNanchor_77_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> in the west end, is at once doorway and window, -besides it there being no opening of any kind in the building.”<a name="FNanchor_78_78" id="FNanchor_78_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a></p> - -<h2><a name="III" id="III"></a>III. CELTIC CHURCHES STANDING ALONE.</h2> - -<p>The number of single churches scattered over the islands and the -adjoining mainland has at one time been very large. Many of these are -now reduced to mere traces, but the ruins of a considerable number still -exist in tolerable preservation.</p> - -<p>We shall consider these in several sections, in accordance with their -different characteristics. The simplest type is first described, but the -age of the structures is not thereby indicated.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_79" id="page_79">{79}</a></span></p> - -<p>1. Churches built in the simple Celtic style of one oblong chamber. A -few of these structures are evidently very ancient, the walls having -been built without cement, or having doors with inclined jambs. These -will be first described.</p> - -<p>2. They will be followed by a long list of churches on the same general -plan, but in which some modifications of the original arrangement of one -door and one window are introduced. The number of windows is often -increased; but they are not arranged on a uniform plan, being generally -distributed so as to suit the locality. The windows were no doubt open -and unglazed, and seem to have been placed so as to be well sheltered, -and as little exposed to the prevailing wind as possible. In some cases -there is no window even in the east gable, and the west and north walls -are frequently blank. In most examples the windows and doors are narrow -and flat-headed, but round-headed doors and windows are also -occasionally used, showing the Norman influence. These structures all -belong more or less to the primitive type of Celtic churches, but their -primitive features cannot be relied on as fixing their date. Some may be -very early, while others may be later even than the pointed buildings to -be afterwards described. The primitive type and primitive features, such -as narrow flat-headed windows and doors, undoubtedly continued in use -long after more advanced forms had been introduced.</p> - -<p>3. A more reliable mark of the order of succession of these early -churches is the existence of an architecturally distinguished chancel. -At what point in the development of the architecture this feature was -introduced it is impossible to say; but from the extremely rude nature -of the other elements in such examples as that at Lybster in Caithness -(described below), it must clearly have been at an early period. We -there find the plan of nave and chancel combined with such primitive -features as a low west doorway, with inclining jambs and flat lintel, -and the opening to the chancel from the nave shaped exactly like the -west doorway.</p> - -<p>4. Examples are also found of the addition of a chancel or nave to an -older simple oblong church, thus showing that the chanceled church was a -later form of plan than the primitive single-chambered church. The -examples of these ancient churches with added chancel or nave will be -first given, and then the churches built on the plan of nave and -chancel.<a name="FNanchor_79_79" id="FNanchor_79_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a></p> - -<p>5. In many instances the use of the pointed arch and ornaments of Gothic -character is quite distinct. These churches are evidently of a date -between the thirteenth and sixteenth centuries. Although in other parts -of the country first pointed work would be assigned to the thirteenth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_80" id="page_80">{80}</a></span> -century, that rule does not apply in the Western Highlands and Islands, -where first pointed features are often continued till much later times, -and where the later styles of Gothic are scarcely represented.</p> - -<h3>(<i>A</i>) CHURCHES DRY-BUILT AND CHURCHES WITH SLOPING JAMBS.</h3> - -<h3>TIGH BEANNACHADH, <span class="smcap">Lewis</span>.</h3> - -<p>Numerous ruins and fragments of chapels are found on the west coast of -Lewis. Among these, near Gallowhead, the great west headland of the -island, stands (<a href="#fig_43">Fig. 43</a>) Tigh Beannachadh (blessing house), “a not</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_43" id="fig_43"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_080.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_080.png" height="330" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 43.</span>—Tigh Beannachadh, Gallowhead.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">greatly dilapidated chapel [a simple oblong], internally 18 feet 2 -inches in length [by 10 feet 4 inches], with a broken east window, -having an altar beside it and a doorway, and a niche in each of the side -walls; the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_81" id="page_81">{81}</a></span> south doorway entire and flat-headed, the masonry very rude -and <i>without lime</i>.” “It would seem to be a very old building.”<a name="FNanchor_80_80" id="FNanchor_80_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a></p> - -<h3>DUN OTHAIL, <span class="smcap">Lewis</span>.</h3> - -<p>On a narrow “shelf, in the face of a high precipice, under Dun Othail, -about ten miles south of the Butt, is found the ground work of a chapel, -internally 17 feet long and 11 feet 3 inches wide, with remains of the -south doorway. The walls are 4 feet thick, and there is no <i>cement -used</i>.”<a name="FNanchor_81_81" id="FNanchor_81_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a></p> - -<h3>CARINISH, <span class="smcap">North Uist</span>.</h3> - -<p>At the south end of the island, Teampull-na-Trianaide (Trinity Church) -consists of two not greatly dilapidated buildings of unequal size, the -larger and more ruinated one internally 62 feet in length. The only -detail,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_44" id="fig_44"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_081.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_081.png" width="335" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 44.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">a broken round-headed doorway near west end of north wall. Connected -with it on that side by a low semi-circular vaulted passage (<a href="#fig_44">Fig. 44</a>), -lighted by a small flat-headed window on each side, is the other -chapel,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_82" id="page_82">{82}</a></span> 23 feet in length. This building is probably of considerable -age. Windows are rude, flat-headed, and 3 feet long.<a name="FNanchor_82_82" id="FNanchor_82_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> See Note by -Captain Thomas.<a name="FNanchor_83_83" id="FNanchor_83_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a></p> - -<h3>(<i>B</i>) SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES WITH MODIFIED FEATURES.</h3> - -<p>1. CARA, <span class="smcap">off Gigha, Kintyre</span>.</p> - -<p>A chapel, 29 feet long externally; masonry rude, but with a good deal of -character. East and west ends nearly entire. Doorway about</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_45" id="fig_45"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_082.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_082.png" width="223" height="267" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 45.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">middle of north side. Window in north wall 3 feet 4 inches long and -flat-headed. (<a href="#fig_45">Fig. 45.</a>) No opening in east end.<a name="FNanchor_84_84" id="FNanchor_84_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_83" id="page_83">{83}</a></span></p> - -<h3>2. EILEAN MUNDE, <span class="smcap">Lochleven</span>.</h3> - -<p>An island near the mouth of Glencoe, containing ruins of a church -internally 50 feet long, with two flat-headed windows in south side and -one in north side. East end blank.<a name="FNanchor_85_85" id="FNanchor_85_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a></p> - -<h3>3. CHURCH OF HOLY CROSS, <span class="smcap">South Galston, Lewis</span>.</h3> - -<p>Church, 18 feet 7 inches long by 12 feet wide. Windows flat-headed, one -in east end and one in east end of both side walls; west end blank. -Doorway, broken, is south-west.<a name="FNanchor_86_86" id="FNanchor_86_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a></p> - -<h3>4. TEAMPULL PHEADAIR, <span class="smcap">Lewis</span>.</h3> - -<p>Remains, 63 feet long externally. In east end a flat-headed window 3 -feet 5 inches high and 6 inches wide; in south wall five windows of much -larger size, and apparently of comparatively modern date. North side and -west end blank.<a name="FNanchor_87_87" id="FNanchor_87_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a></p> - -<h3>5. ST. AULA, <span class="smcap">Gress, Lewis</span>.</h3> - -<p>Church, 18 feet 10 inches long by 14 feet wide, slightly dilapidated. -One window narrow and flat-headed in west end, and in south wall -flat-headed door and window. Over door a stone with date 1685, in which -year the building probably underwent repairs.<a name="FNanchor_88_88" id="FNanchor_88_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a></p> - -<h3>6. TOEHEAD, <span class="smcap">Harris</span>.</h3> - -<p>Church, internally 21 feet by 10 feet 2 inches. Windows, one in east -end, one in west gable, one in south wall, and one, together with -doorway, in north wall, are mere flat-headed slits, the east one 8 -inches wide. Under east window stone altar, still entire.<a name="FNanchor_89_89" id="FNanchor_89_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a></p> - -<h3>7. NUNTOWN, <span class="smcap">Benbecula</span>.</h3> - -<p>A small chapel, externally 25 feet by 16 feet, within enclosed -burying-ground, almost perfect shell, windows small, narrow, and flat in -head, two in each side and one in east end; the latter 19 inches high -and 5 inches wide. Doorway, a rude flat-headed aperture, surmounted by a -square niche, is in west end.<a name="FNanchor_90_90" id="FNanchor_90_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_84" id="page_84">{84}</a></span></p> - -<h3>8. PABBA, <span class="smcap">Sound of Harris</span>.</h3> - -<p>Ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel, externally 40 feet 9 inches in length and 19 -feet 9 inches wide. Doorway flat-headed, 2 feet 2 inches wide, in west -end. Above it, narrow flat-headed window, and a similar window near east -end of both side walls.<a name="FNanchor_91_91" id="FNanchor_91_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a></p> - -<h3>9. KILMUIR, <span class="smcap">Skye</span>.</h3> - -<p>Church of “considerable age,” much altered. Doorway and windows small, -flat-headed, and deeply recessed inside. Arched recesses in side walls -for tombs.<a name="FNanchor_92_92" id="FNanchor_92_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a></p> - -<h3>10. TRUMPAN, <span class="smcap">Skye</span>.</h3> - -<p>Old chapel, 51 feet long externally. In east end one short narrow window -and two in north wall, all flat-headed. Rudely arched doorway in north -elevation.<a name="FNanchor_93_93" id="FNanchor_93_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a></p> - -<h3><i>The following show signs of Norman influence.</i></h3> - -<p>11. ST. CARMAIG, <span class="smcap">Kiels, Knapdale</span>.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_46" id="fig_46"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_084.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_084.png" width="362" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 46.</span>—Kiels, Knapdale. Exterior East Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_85" id="page_85">{85}</a></span></p> - -<p>The church is a rudely constructed oblong, externally 42 feet in length -by 21 feet in width, roofless. Windows—one close to east end of north</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_47" id="fig_47"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_085.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_085.png" height="388" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 47.</span>—Keils, Knapdale. Interior East Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">wall, two in south, and one with round arch in middle of east elevation. -(Figs. 46, 47.) West wall blank. Windows flat except east one.<a name="FNanchor_94_94" id="FNanchor_94_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a></p> - -<h3>12. KILMORY, <span class="smcap">Knapdale</span>.</h3> - -<p>Church, rudely constructed oblong, internally 38 feet in length by 17 -feet in width. Walls well preserved. Doorway near west end of south -wall. Four windows; one near east end of side walls, and two together in -east elevation. Side windows small rectangular apertures; east one -slightly moulded and semi-circular top.<a name="FNanchor_95_95" id="FNanchor_95_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a> (Figs. 48, 49.)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_86" id="page_86">{86}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_48" id="fig_48"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_086-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_086-a.png" width="402" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 48.</span>—Kilmory, Knapdale. Exterior East End -Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_49" id="fig_49"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_086-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_086-b.png" width="362" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 49.</span>—Kilmory, Knapdale. Interior East End -Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_87" id="page_87">{87}</a></span></p> - -<h3>13. TIREE (<span class="smcap">Ithica Terra of Adamnan</span>).</h3> - -<p><span class="smcap">Kirkapoll.</span>—A very rudely-constructed chapel, internally 36 feet 9 -inches long. In west end a plain round doorway (<a href="#fig_50">Fig. 50</a>), 6 feet high,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_50" id="fig_50"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_087-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_087-a.png" width="347" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 50.</span>—Kirkapoll, Tiree. Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">rudely arched with slates, and having a small Latin cross on its south -side. In south wall a round-headed door and two round-headed</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_51" id="fig_51"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_087-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_087-b.png" width="220" height="209" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 51.</span>—Kirkapoll, Tiree. Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_88" id="page_88">{88}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">windows, with great splay internally (<a href="#fig_51">Fig. 51</a>); the north elevation -blank.<a name="FNanchor_96_96" id="FNanchor_96_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a></p> - -<p>On a neighbouring hillock there is another chapel, internally 23 feet 5 -inches long, with walls and gables entire. The windows are round-headed, -one in north wall and one in south, and doorway in south wall; east and -west walls blank.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Kilchenich, Tiree.</span>—Ruined chapel, 33 feet 5 inches long. Only -details—small round-headed doorway in west end.<a name="FNanchor_97_97" id="FNanchor_97_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a></p> - -<h3>(<i>C</i>) CHURCHES WITH A CHANCEL OR NAVE ADDED TO AN OLDER STRUCTURE.</h3> - -<h3>1. ST. COLUMBA, <span class="smcap">Balivanich, Benbecula</span>.</h3> - -<p>Occupying a swampy spot, formerly the bed of a lake, are remains of a -chapel probably belonging to the monks of Iona. Externally 56 feet in -length and 19 feet in width. (<a href="#fig_52">Fig. 52.</a>) All the windows are flat-topped -and narrow; one in east end, three in south wall, and one in north wall. -East wall only is perfect.<a name="FNanchor_98_98" id="FNanchor_98_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_52" id="fig_52"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_088.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_088.png" width="454" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 52.</span>—St. Columba, Balivanich. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Was built in a remote age. The mortar is washed out of the joints. The -only door is at north end, with inclined jambs, and so low as to require -stooping position on entrance; 4 feet 7 inches high; covered with -undressed lintel. Little rectangular windows like portholes. Chancel 14 -feet long by 15 feet broad; nave 33½ feet long and 14<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_89" id="page_89">{89}</a></span>¼ feet broad. East -wall 5 feet thick; east window 2¾ feet by 6 inches wide, greatly splayed -at sides inside. Chancel walls—2 feet 2 inches thick—do not bond into -nave. Nave window in north wall 14 inches by 7 inches. South wall -windows—east one 10 inches square, the other 14 inches by 8 inches. -Chancel probably added by Lady Amy end of fourteenth century.<a name="FNanchor_99_99" id="FNanchor_99_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a></p> - -<h3>2. EILEAN MOR.</h3> - -<p>A small island lying off the Knapdale coast. “A little way up from the -landing-place stands the half-roofless, though in other respects -scarcely at all ruinated, shell of ‘Kilvicoharmaig, the Mother Church of -Knapdale,’ surrounded by an open and nearly obliterated burying-ground. -Its external plan (<a href="#fig_53">Fig. 53</a>) is a simple oblong, measuring 37 feet 5 -inches in length and 20 feet in width. Internally the building is -divided into chancel and nave, the division being a gabled wall open by -a semi-circular arch composed of long thin slates. An apartment, which -was probably a comparatively modern contrivance, appears to have gone -over the nave, as there is a fireplace and chimney in the upper part of -the west wall, not bearing marks of antiquity.</p> - -<p>“The chancel is covered by a low waggon vault, between which and the -external roof there is a chamber lighted by a square window in the apex -of the west gable. In the east end of the chancel (<a href="#fig_54">Fig. 54</a>) are two -small round-headed windows placed considerably apart, the north one, -like the window at the neighbouring Kiels, having its interior sill -underdrawn and levelled for an altar.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_53" id="fig_53"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_089.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_089.png" height="327" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 53.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>“In the interior south wall is a large round-headed recess, containing -the tomb and headless effigy of an ecclesiastic, and in the wall -opposite are two smaller recesses of the same kind—the eastern one -having a window behind and a square lychnoscopic-looking aperture on one -side near the ground.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_90" id="page_90">{90}</a></span></p> - -<p>“The chancel evidently belongs to an early period, and in style mostly -resembles Norman, though some alterations (designed, there can be no -doubt, to procure more shelter) have somewhat modified the pristine -character of its detail. Originally the entrance was by a round doorway -in the north side of the nave; but this has been built up, and another -one, square and smaller, opened through the wall opposite. The window -lights have all been reduced by the inserting of a slate pierced with a -short and narrow lancet—that on the south, in the east end, plain</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_54" id="fig_54"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_090.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_090.png" width="397" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 54.</span>—Church of St. Carmaig, Eilean Mor. Exterior -Elevation of East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">pointed, the other one trefoiled. But the most important alteration is -in the chancel arch (<a href="#fig_55">Fig. 55</a>), which has been lessened by blocking to a -small flat-topped doorway with a square hole right through the wall on -each side of it; over each of these holes, within the chancel, is an -ambry of the usual square form.”</p> - -<p>In a recess among the rocks are remains of a rectangular building, -measuring internally 11 feet 3 inches by 10 feet 10 inches—the walls -rudely built without cement, and more than 4 feet in thickness. This is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_91" id="page_91">{91}</a></span> -the Chapel of St. Carmaig, “made by his own hands” soon after he came to -the place for retirement and devotion. The entrance to the building</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_55" id="fig_55"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_091.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_091.png" width="326" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 55.</span>—Exterior West Elevation of Chancel.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">is a narrow flat-headed doorway of primitive character in the east wall. -This structure communicates with a natural cave, and probably existed as -a religious cell long before the neighbouring Kilvicoharmaig was -erected.<a name="FNanchor_100_100" id="FNanchor_100_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a></p> - -<h3>3. ST. COLUMBA’S, <span class="smcap">Ey., Lewis</span>.</h3> - -<p>A long narrow building of two compartments, divided by a thick wall, -containing arched passage. Eastern compartment internally 62 feet in -length by 17 feet in width; western one 23 feet by 16 feet 3 inches. -Different parts erected at different times from character of masonry. In -eastern or larger compartment, windows are mere flat-headed slits, flush -outside, widely splayed inside; east one 4 feet 4 inches by 7½ inches; -south one 3 feet 8 inches and only 3 inches wide. In western division -masonry less primitive looking; resembles Norman. Windows—one in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_92" id="page_92">{92}</a></span> west -end, one in north side, and one, together with door, in south side; all -round-headed, flush outside, and widely splayed inside.<a name="FNanchor_101_101" id="FNanchor_101_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a></p> - -<h3>4. ST. COLUMBA, <span class="smcap">Kiels, Kintyre</span>.</h3> - -<p>Long narrow building, with small round-headed windows and doorway in -side walls only.</p> - -<p>Length outside 75 feet 3 inches; width only 18 feet 10 inches; unbonded -juncture 29 feet from east end, shows that chancel has been extended to -west; masonry of usual rude description; stones of added part are -squared and like Norman work. Plain round-headed doorway on south-west, -and two or three small round-headed single windows.<a name="FNanchor_102_102" id="FNanchor_102_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a></p> - -<h3>5. KILCHOUSLAN, <span class="smcap">near Campbeltown, Kintyre</span>.</h3> - -<p>Chapel, rather more than 58 feet in length, nearly entire; all apertures</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_56" id="fig_56"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_092-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_092-a.png" width="249" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 56.</span>—Kilchouslan. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">square-headed. North wall blank; seems to have been lengthened by about -20 feet; fissure at junction similar to that at Kiels.<a name="FNanchor_103_103" id="FNanchor_103_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a></p> - -<p>[We give Plan and View (<a href="#fig_56">Fig. 56</a>, <a href="#fig_57">57</a>) of this church, originally 36 feet -7 inches long by 17 feet wide internally. The and windows are -square-headed and built with freestone, now much decayed; the remainder -of the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_57" id="fig_57"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_092-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_092-b.png" width="431" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 57.</span>—Kilchouslan. View from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_93" id="page_93">{93}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">walls is built with whinstone. The added chancel is marked by the -freestone corners of the east end of the original church, which still -exist. The chancel measures 19 feet in length by 17 feet in width. The -east wall is now demolished.]</p> - -<h3>6. KILCHENZIE, <span class="smcap">near Campbeltown, Kintyre</span>.</h3> - -<p>[We also give Plan and View of this structure (<a href="#fig_58">Fig. 58</a>, <a href="#fig_59">59</a>). A simple -oblong church, 40</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_58" id="fig_58"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_093-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_093-a.png" width="228" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 58.</span>—Kilchenzie. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">feet 11 inches long by 17 feet 3 inches wide internally, with one -round-headed window, 6 inches wide, cut out of a single stone in south -wall. A chancel, 27 feet 4 inches long by 17 feet 3 inches wide, has -been added, of which the junction is quite apparent. One small pointed -window in east end of chancel.]</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_59" id="fig_59"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_093-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_093-b.png" width="366" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 59.</span>—Kilchenzie. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<h2><a name="IV" id="IV"></a>IV. CHURCHES BUILT WITH CHANCEL AND NAVE.</h2> - -<h3>1. ST. MARY’S, <span class="smcap">Lybster, Caithness</span>.</h3> - -<p>A rudely constructed building (<a href="#fig_60">Fig. 60</a>) consisting of chancel and nave. -Flat-headed doorway, 3 feet 5 inches high, with inclining jambs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_94" id="page_94">{94}</a></span> in -west end (<a href="#fig_61">Fig. 61</a>), and possibly another door in south wall. No</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_60" id="fig_60"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_094-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_094-a.png" height="247" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 60.</span>—St. Mary’s, Lybster. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">windows except, perhaps, one high up in east gable. Chancel entrance -same as west doorway.<a name="FNanchor_104_104" id="FNanchor_104_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_61" id="fig_61"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_094-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_094-b.png" width="357" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 61.</span>—St. Mary’s, Lybster. View of Doorway in West -End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_95" id="page_95">{95}</a></span></p> - -<h3>2. CHURCH OF JOHN THE BAPTIST, <span class="smcap">South Bragair, Lewis</span>.</h3> - -<p>Not much wasted; consisting of chancel and nave; respectively 12 feet 8 -inches and 19 feet 10 inches long inside, with flat-headed windows—one -east and one south in chancel, and one in west end of nave. Chancel arch -and south-west doorway broken; former seems to have been pointed.<a name="FNanchor_105_105" id="FNanchor_105_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a></p> - -<h3>3. ST. MICHAEL’S, <span class="smcap">Borve, Barra</span>.</h3> - -<p>Consists of nave and chancel; respectively 23 feet and 7 feet 10 inches -in length inside. Only ground plan left.<a name="FNanchor_106_106" id="FNanchor_106_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a></p> - -<p>(This and St. John’s, Bragair, the only churches in Lewis with chancel -and nave constructively separated.)</p> - -<h3>(<i>D</i>) CHURCHES WITH POINTED OR LATE FEATURES.</h3> - -<h3>1. ST. CATAN’S, <span class="smcap">Gigha, off Kintyre</span>.</h3> - -<p>Old church, oblong, 33 feet long and 15 feet 2 inches in width. One long -lanciform window in east end (<a href="#fig_62">Fig. 62</a>); stone font.<a name="FNanchor_107_107" id="FNanchor_107_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_62" id="fig_62"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_095.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_095.png" width="396" height="352" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 62.</span>—St. Catan’s, Gigha. East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_96" id="page_96">{96}</a></span></p> - -<p>In Islay numerous traces of chapels are found, of which the following -are the best preserved; some have lancet windows, and the others, with -square or round heads, do not appear to be very old.</p> - -<h3>2. KILDALTON, <span class="smcap">Islay</span>.</h3> - -<p>Church, 60 feet long. East end contains two long lanciform windows, -recessed semi-circularly within—one in west gable and one in each side -wall. In south wall a canopied piscina and effigy of mailed figure.<a name="FNanchor_108_108" id="FNanchor_108_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a></p> - -<h3>3. KILNAUGHTON, <span class="smcap">Islay</span>.</h3> - -<p>Church, internally 38 feet long; west end blank. Small narrow window in -east gable.<a name="FNanchor_109_109" id="FNanchor_109_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a></p> - -<h3>4. KILNEAVE, <span class="smcap">Islay</span>.</h3> - -<p>Church, 30 feet long, and not very old. Two windows, short and wide—one -in east elevation and one in south wall. Arches semi-circular, of thin -stones.<a name="FNanchor_110_110" id="FNanchor_110_110"></a><a href="#Footnote_110_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a> (<a href="#fig_63">Fig. 63.</a>)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_63" id="fig_63"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_096.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_096.png" width="415" height="182" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 63.</span>—Kilneave, Islay.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>5. KILCHIERAN, <span class="smcap">Islay</span>.</h3> - -<p>East end and fragment of south wall of chapel. No window, but two -recesses in east wall inside, with ambry and projecting piscina.<a name="FNanchor_111_111" id="FNanchor_111_111"></a><a href="#Footnote_111_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_97" id="page_97">{97}</a></span></p> - -<h3>6. ST. NINIAN’S, <span class="smcap">Sanda</span>.</h3> - -<p>An island off the east coast of the Mull of Cantyre. The church is an -oblong, 32 feet 9 inches. (<a href="#fig_64">Fig. 64.</a>) Walls pretty entire. Doorway</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_64" id="fig_64"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_097-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_097-a.png" width="309" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 64.</span>—St. Ninian’s, Sanda. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">plain, chamfered, and flat-headed, at north-west. Windows small and -flat-headed. (<a href="#fig_65">Fig. 65.</a>) Small circular piscina. Lying inside, bowl of -font.<a name="FNanchor_112_112" id="FNanchor_112_112"></a><a href="#Footnote_112_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_65" id="fig_65"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_097-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_097-b.png" width="215" height="174" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 65.</span>—St. Ninian’s, Sanda. South-East Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>7. ST. COLUMBA’S ISLE, <span class="smcap">Lewis</span>.</h3> - -<p>At the mouth of Loch Erisort is St. Columba’s Chapel, externally 35 feet -6 inches in length and 18 feet 7 inches in width. East elevation<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_98" id="page_98">{98}</a></span> nearly -entire; contains flat-headed window, 4 feet by 6 inches, and in west -gable smaller one same shape. South side contains a narrow lanciform -window, and broken doorway on left. North side nearly gone.<a name="FNanchor_113_113" id="FNanchor_113_113"></a><a href="#Footnote_113_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a></p> - -<h3>8. PENNYGOWAN, <span class="smcap">Mull</span>.</h3> - -<p>Chapel, 39 feet 9 inches long internally. Three narrow single-light -windows, with heads slightly curved; doorway similar. East end -blank.<a name="FNanchor_114_114" id="FNanchor_114_114"></a><a href="#Footnote_114_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a></p> - -<h3>9. LAGGAN, <span class="smcap">Mull</span>.</h3> - -<p>Chapel, 35 feet long internally. North side, long lanciform window and -round-headed door; heads of one stone; east end of south side long, -narrow round-headed window; west end, window with drip-stone; east end -blank. Basin of octagonal font.<a name="FNanchor_115_115" id="FNanchor_115_115"></a><a href="#Footnote_115_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a></p> - -<h3>10. INCHKENNETH, <span class="smcap">near Ulva</span>.</h3> - -<p>Remains of church; seems to be of early first pointed date; simple -oblong, 40 feet 8 inches long by 19 feet 8 inches wide, with small -ruined sacristy on south-east. Flat buttresses at corner of east end, -which contains two long lancet windows enormously splayed inside. Side -walls have each one similar window, and broken doorway in north wall. -Circular piscina.<a name="FNanchor_116_116" id="FNanchor_116_116"></a><a href="#Footnote_116_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a></p> - -<h3>11. ST. MOLUAC, <span class="smcap">Raasay</span>.</h3> - -<p>First pointed. Internally 46 feet in length. In west end two short -narrow lancets, semi-arched inside, one in middle of wall, the other -aloft in gable. In east end one similar. In south wall two windows and -flat-headed doorway, and inside a large semi-recess in wall.<a name="FNanchor_117_117" id="FNanchor_117_117"></a><a href="#Footnote_117_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a></p> - -<h3>12. KILLEAN, <span class="smcap">Kintyre</span>.</h3> - -<p>Perhaps Mother-Church. Details more elaborate than usual, vaulted, and -sacristy or chantry chapel at north-east. A south-west doorway, and -another near east end of south wall, and apparently an unusually -distinguished chancel. Narrow round-headed lights on both sides. East -end a very long couplet, formerly separated by a buttress; tooth -ornament round exterior openings; moulded label, string and cornice, and -corner nook shaft.<a name="FNanchor_118_118" id="FNanchor_118_118"></a><a href="#Footnote_118_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a></p> - -<h3>13. KILBRIDE, <span class="smcap">Knapdale</span>.</h3> - -<p>Large, not much ruined.<a name="FNanchor_119_119" id="FNanchor_119_119"></a><a href="#Footnote_119_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_99" id="page_99">{99}</a></span></p> - -<h3>14. EORRAPIDH, <span class="smcap">Lewis</span>.</h3> - -<p>Teampull Moluach. Simple oblong; internally 44 feet long by 17 feet 9 -inches wide, with north-east sacristy and south-east chapel, both roofed -with lean-to. (<a href="#fig_66">Fig. 66.</a>) Doorway at south-west, semi-arched;</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_66" id="fig_66"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_099.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_099.png" height="343" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 66.</span>—Teampull Eorrapidh, Lewis. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">east window round head, rear arch pointed; west window smaller, round -head with round rear arch. At top of east and of side walls two small -square windows close together, and to west one large and round-headed of -one stone. Windows in side buildings mere slits, flat in head.<a name="FNanchor_120_120" id="FNanchor_120_120"></a><a href="#Footnote_120_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a></p> - -<h3>15. OLRIG, <span class="smcap">Caithness</span>.</h3> - -<p>Walls of old church apparently first pointed.<a name="FNanchor_121_121" id="FNanchor_121_121"></a><a href="#Footnote_121_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100">{100}</a></span></p> - -<h3>16. KILCHIEVEN <span class="smcap">OR</span> KILCOIVEN, <span class="smcap">Kintyre</span>.</h3> - -<p>Simple oblong, a good deal demolished; 51 feet 8 inches long by 17 feet -8 inches wide internally. North-west pointed doorway; remains of -two-light window in south wall, and hole in south wall for piscina. -(<a href="#fig_67">Fig. 67.</a>)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_67" id="fig_67"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_100-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_100-a.png" width="192" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 67.</span>—Kilchieven Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_100-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_100-b.png" width="291" height="327" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>Egilsay, Interior of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101">{101}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHURCHES_IN_ORKNEY_AND_SHETLAND" id="CHURCHES_IN_ORKNEY_AND_SHETLAND"></a>CHURCHES IN ORKNEY AND SHETLAND.<br /><br /> -<small>DRAWN AND DESCRIBED BY SIR HENRY DRYDEN, <span class="smcap">Bart</span>.</small></h2> - -<p>About forty years ago the ancient churches of Orkney and Shetland were -minutely examined by Sir Henry Dryden, who then made measured plans and -drawings of the buildings, showing their condition at that time.</p> - -<p>In 1870 Sir Henry deposited copies of his drawings (copied by Mr. -William Galloway) and descriptions of these churches in the hands of the -Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. As these drawings and descriptions -contain much information, which, from the natural decay of the -structures, is now lost, it appeared to us that the information -collected so long ago by Sir H. Dryden would form an interesting chapter -in this work on the ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland.</p> - -<p>This view has been adopted by Sir Henry, who has most kindly agreed to -allow his drawings and descriptions of the ruined churches of Orkney and -Shetland to be embodied in this book. The consent of the Council of the -Society of Antiquaries of Scotland has also been freely given, and these -valuable drawings and descriptions of ancient churches, which are -rapidly disappearing, are now published for the first time.</p> - -<p>The descriptions are arranged, as far as possible, in the order of the -type of the plans, commencing with the oldest type of simple oblong, -one-chambered churches, and then continuing with the churches containing -architecturally distinguished choir and nave. (See Note by Sir Henry -Dryden, pp. 172, 173.)</p> - -<h3>CHAPEL ON THE BROUGH OF DEERNESS.</h3> - -<p>The brough is on the east coast of Deerness, and measures on the top -about 400 feet north and south by 240 feet east and west. It is -separated from the mainland on the south-west by a narrow ravine or -“geo,” which is almost wet at high water. (<a href="#fig_68">Fig. 68.</a>)</p> - -<p>The brough is highest on the north, and at that part is about 90 or 100 -feet high. (<a href="#fig_69">Fig. 69.</a>) The coast hereabouts is steep and rocky. The use -of the word <i>brough</i> for a detached rock, when <i>no fort</i> is placed on -it, is not unfrequent.</p> - -<p>The chapel (<a href="#fig_70">Fig. 70</a>) is near the centre of the brough, enclosed in a -yard 57 feet by 45 feet, of which only the foundation remains. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102">{102}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_68" id="fig_68"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_102-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_102-a.png" height="379" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 68.</span>—Brough of Deerness.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_69" id="fig_69"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_102-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_102-b.png" width="404" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 69.</span>—Chapel on Brough of Deerness.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103">{103}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">entrance into this is not evident. The chapel is a parallelogram, 24 -feet 5 inches by 17 feet 4 inches outside. The west wall is 3 feet 2 -inches, and the others 3 feet 11 inches thick. Only about 4 feet 6 -inches and 5 feet in height remain above ground. It stands nearly true -east and west, the west end facing a little south of west. It is built -of clay slate from 1 foot to 3 feet long, and 2 to 7 inches thick, now -much covered with yellow lichen. It has only one doorway (<a href="#fig_71">Fig. 71</a>), -which is in the west</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_70" id="fig_70"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_103.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_103.png" width="302" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 70.</span>—Chapel on Brough of Deerness. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">end, and apparently was only 2 feet wide; but the west wall is -irregular, and appears to have been altered and repaired. The upper part -of the doorway is gone, but probably it was square headed, with a stone -lintel. The jambs are not splayed, and have no rebate for a door, nor is -there any bar hole.<a name="FNanchor_122_122" id="FNanchor_122_122"></a><a href="#Footnote_122_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a> By digging at the west doorway it appeared -probable that the floor inside was about 6 feet below top of sill of -east window, but the level is uncertain, as the interior is much covered -with debris.</p> - -<p>Apparently there was only one window, which is in the east end. (See -<a href="#fig_71">Fig. 71.</a>) The top is gone, so that it is doubtful whether it was flat or -arched. One jamb is gone and the other somewhat mutilated, but 1 foot 9 -inches in height of it remains. The window had a clear opening of 1 foot -3 inches, with jambs splayed inside, to 3 feet 6 inches in width. It -appears to have had the outer 11 inches of the jambs parallel, and to -have contained glass. On a part of the east wall is built a beacon used -for the survey.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104">{104}</a></span></p> - -<p>In the north wall, near east end, is an ambry 2 feet 4 inches wide, not -less than 2 feet 4 inches high (top is gone), and 1 foot 11 inches -recessed. It has no traces of having had a door.<a name="FNanchor_123_123" id="FNanchor_123_123"></a><a href="#Footnote_123_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> Supposing the -floor to have been 6 feet below sill of east window, probably the side -walls were about 8 feet high, and the points of the gables about 18 feet -from floor. The roof was probably of large slabs of stone along the -eaves and above them, either of smaller slabs or of “divots,” fastened -down with “simmons” as on houses.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_71" id="fig_71"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_104.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_104.png" height="342" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 71.</span>—Chapel on Brough of Deerness. Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The external length is equal to the diagonal of the square of the width. -About 35 yards south of the chapel is a tank or well.</p> - -<p>On the south edge of the brough are stones which appear to have once -formed a wall, and at this point is the entrance from the “geo.”</p> - -<p>Spread over the top of the brough are foundations of at least 18 huts.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105">{105}</a></span> -They are mostly parallelograms, of about 24 feet by 12 feet outside, and -the walls 2 feet 6 inches and 3 feet thick. These were for the use of -devotees who used this as a place of pilgrimage.</p> - -<p>A survey of our coasts and lakes will show how strong a partiality -existed in early times for selecting as sites for churches and monastic -establishments small islands, isolated rocks, or promontories difficult -of access—for instance, the two St. Michael’s Mounts, Lindisfarn, Iona, -Ireland’s Eye, Inisfallen, &c. Nor was this taste for isolation peculiar -to the coasts. We find throughout Europe, and, indeed, in the East also, -numbers of peaks difficult of access, bearing such buildings. The brough -of Deerness and the brough of Birsay are good examples.</p> - -<h3>CHAPEL ON THE NORTH SHORE OF HEAD OF HOLLAND.</h3> - -<p>This is situated within a few yards of the shore, and not many feet -above water level. It is only a heap of ruins, but the measures are just -ascertainable. It is a parallelogram, measuring 37 feet east and west by</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_72" id="fig_72"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_105.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_105.png" width="293" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 72.</span>—Chapel near Shore of Head of Holland. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>15 feet 4 inches north and south inside. The north and south walls are 2 -feet 6 inches thick, and east and west ends 3 feet 3 inches, and are of -the red sandstone of the locality. There was a door in the south wall. -Planned in 1870. (<a href="#fig_72">Fig. 72.</a>)</p> - -<h3>HALCRO CHAPEL, <span class="smcap">South Ronaldshay</span>.</h3> - -<p>This is now wholly destroyed, and even the foundations taken out, but -the measures were obtained by Mr. G. Petrie so soon after the removal of -the latter that the thickness of the walls could be accurately -determined.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106">{106}</a></span></p> - -<p>It was a parallelogram, 21 feet by 14 feet inside. The walls were 2 feet -6 inches thick. The place of the doorway was not ascertained. Planned in -1870. (<a href="#fig_73">Fig. 73.</a>)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_73" id="fig_73"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_106-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_106-a.png" width="243" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 73.</span>—Halcro Chapel, in South Parish, Ronaldshay. -Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>ST. TREDWELL’S CHAPEL, <span class="smcap">Papa Westray</span>.</p> - -<p>This chapel is situated on a little holm in a fresh water loch on the -east side of Papa Westray. (<a href="#fig_74">Fig. 74.</a>) It appears probable that a Pict’s</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_74" id="fig_74"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_106-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_106-b.png" height="372" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 74.</span>—St. Tredwell’s Chapel. Plan and Section.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107">{107}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">house was constructed on this holm, and that the chapel was built on its -ruins. This St. Tredwell is the same as St. Triduana, whose day in the -Roman calendar is October 8th. She is not mentioned by Alban Butler. The -chapel was much frequented in its day, and many benefits were said to</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_75" id="fig_75"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_107.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_107.png" width="270" height="337" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 75.</span>—St. Tredwell’s Chapel. Plan and Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">be obtained from the Saint by her devotees. It is a plain parallelogram -(<a href="#fig_75">Fig. 75</a>), 20 feet 3 inches east and west by 13 feet 10 inches north and -south inside, and stands west by south and east by north. There is a -narrow doorway near the west end of the south side. Only the lower -portions of the walls remain, except at north-west angle, which measures -8 feet high; but here we have, as usual, the unfortunate information -that within memory the east gable and south wall were standing. The -thickness of the wall on the north is 3 feet 11 inches; east, 4 feet 2 -inches; south, 4 feet 3 inches; and west, 4 feet 9 inches. It is stated -that there was a window in the east end, and that the doorway was flat -headed. No trace of a window remains, and only about 3 feet 6 inches of -the door jambs remain. These have a rebate into which a door is fitted, -but whether in a wooden frame or not cannot be ascertained. The original -floor appears to have been 10 feet above water level.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108">{108}</a></span></p> - -<p>There is no means of assigning a date to the building, but the -difference in the thickness of the walls makes it possible that it has -been altered since its first erection. Planned 1870.</p> - -<h3>CHURCH AT SWENDRO, <span class="smcap">Rousay</span>.</h3> - -<p>This is in a graveyard, close to the west shore of Rousay, about a mile -north of Westness. It consists of a long parallelogram, and, but for a -stoup near the door, and apparently an ambry near the east end, might be -taken for a post-Reformation building. It has been used till within -memory. It stands about east and west. (<a href="#fig_76">Fig. 76.</a>) It is 52 feet 11</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_76" id="fig_76"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_108.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_108.png" width="349" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 76.</span>—Chapel near Westness, Rousay. Plan and -Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">inches east and west by 14 feet 5 inches north and south inside; and the -walls are 2 feet 6 inches on north and south, 2 feet 11 inches on east, -and 3 feet 8 inches on the west. It is now roofless, and in some parts -broken. From the floor to the top of side walls is 9 feet 10 inches.</p> - -<p>There is one doorway near the west end of south wall. (See <a href="#fig_76">Fig. 76.</a>) -This is flat headed and rebated, measuring 3 feet 4 inches clear width. -To the west of this doorway and low down is a window 2 feet 11 inches by -1 foot 4 inches clear, flat headed, and splayed inwards and outwards. -Between the window and the doorway (inside) is a recess, probably for -holy water. To the east of the doorway is a window 3 feet 3½ inches by 1 -foot 4 inches, flat headed, and splayed as before. The head is nearly as -high as the eaves. Farther east is another similar window. About midway -along the north wall is a window 2 feet 1½ inch by 1 foot, clear<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109">{109}</a></span> -opening, flat headed, and splayed as before. The head is nearly as high -as the eaves. In the east end (<a href="#fig_77">Fig. 77</a>) is a window, of which the sill -is nearly as high as the eaves, 4 feet by 1 foot 2 inches, clear -opening, with flat head, and splays in and out; under this window, and -across the end inside, is a sort of shelf at the height of the top of -the altar. In the west end is a</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_77" id="fig_77"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_109.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_109.png" width="397" height="255" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 77.</span>—Chapel near Westness, Ronsay. Sections and -Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">window above the level of the eaves, 3 feet 5 inches by 1 foot 4 inches. -There is a seat inside, along the west end and part of the north side. -The east and west gables are in steps, which remain tolerably entire. -The floor of the church is gone. In the yard are numerous rough -tombstones, and a few more modern. Outside the north-west corner of the -yard is the foundation of a small, strong, rectangular building, which -has more the appearance of a fort than a church; but close to it, as is -stated, were found some carved stones of the red sandstone, now at -Westness, one of which appears to be the cap of an elaborate church -doorway, with three shafts on each side. Planned 1870.</p> - -<h3>ST. OLA, <span class="smcap">Kirkwall</span>.</h3> - -<p>This church stands in Bridge Street Lane, and is now a carpenter’s shop -and warehouse, the property of Mrs. John Reid. It formerly was enclosed -in “a close” or court, and was once converted into a “poorhouse,” from -which the close was called “Poorhouse Close.” It has been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110">{110}</a></span> so much -mutilated in its several conversions that little can be stated of its -original style and arrangement.</p> - -<p>It stands about west by south and east by north. It consists of one -parallelogram, 35 feet by 18 feet inside. (<a href="#fig_78">Fig. 78.</a>) The south side</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_78" id="fig_78"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_110-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_110-a.png" width="413" height="157" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 78.</span>—St. Ola, Kirkwall. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">abuts on the lane, and a house is attached to the west end, from which -house into the chapel a modern doorway has been cut.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_79" id="fig_79"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_110-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_110-b.png" width="474" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 79.</span>—St. Ola, Kirkwall. Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111">{111}</a></span></p> - -<p>The south wall is 2 feet 11 inches thick, the west 3 feet 6 inches.</p> - -<p>The original entrance is on the south, 17 feet from the exterior west -angle. (<a href="#fig_79">Fig. 79.</a>) It is 3 feet 5 inches wide, with a semicircular head -and continuous mouldings of a hollow, ornamented with four-leaved -flowers and a filleted roll, like many of the mouldings in the -cathedral, except as to the flowers. When the street was paved about -thirty years ago the ground was raised, the jambs were covered up 9 -inches, two stones were inserted just below the impost and the arch -raised. What the height of the side walls was is not now evident. They -are now about 20 feet above the original floor at the entrance. Probably -the ridge was about 24 feet high.</p> - -<p>The east end has no trace of an original window, but a modern one has -been inserted. In the south wall near the east angle is a modern window, -but probably in the place of an original one. The other original windows -cannot be traced. Probably there was a step at 10 feet or 11 feet from -the east end, and perhaps a screen. A few feet east of the entrance -inside was a stoup or piscina (see <a href="#fig_79">Fig. 79.</a>). In the north wall near the -east angle remains an ambry (see <a href="#fig_79">Fig. 79.</a>) 1 foot 4¾ inches wide, 2 feet -1 inch high, and 1 foot 3½ inches recessed. The head is an ogee arch -under a hood moulding, and it is flanked by buttresses with finials. The -bottom of this ambry is 5 feet 1 inch above what appears to have been -the original level of the floor. The moulding of this resembles that of -the entrance, except in having no flowers.</p> - -<p>In the east wall near the south angle is a smaller ambry, also ogee -headed and less ornate, the bottom of which is 2 feet 6 inches above the -floor. The use of the ogee is very rare in Scotland. The only curves of -that kind in St. Magnus are in fragments of Bishop Tulloch’s tomb.</p> - -<p>South of the chapel in what is now the lane were found, in forming the -lane, gravestones and human bones. Close by the chapel was lying, in -1855, a stone, having on it, sculptured in relief, apparently a shield, -under a mitre, but too much defaced to be recognised, and below the -shield, “Robertvs ...,” and a date or letters illegible. Bishop Robert -Reid held the see from 1540 to the Reformation; and as the mouldings -(especially the four-leaved flower and the ogee arch) point to the -fifteenth century, perhaps the chapel may be a late example of the -style, and be assigned to him. His coat of arms is a stag’s head -cabossed.</p> - -<p>The parish in which the town of Kirkwall is situated is that of St. Ola, -and it is certain that in this part of the town was the parish church, -dedicated to the great warrior saint of Norway—St. Olaf.</p> - -<p>The fact of burials having been made close to this building makes it -probable that this was the parish church; not a chapel of ease or of -private endowment. Of course, this building was not the <i>first</i> parish -church, though it may have occupied the site of the first, and probably -did so.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112">{112}</a></span></p> - -<p>It was probably after the constitution of Kirkwall as a royal burgh, -about 1470, that the cathedral became practically the parish church, and -St. Ola became merged in Kirkwall. The name Kirkwall (Church-bay), being -wholly Norse, is some evidence that the name was caused by a Norse, not -a Culdee, church. The situation could hardly fail to induce settlement -of the Norsemen there. In the name Egilsey we have inference of a -different origin, as will be hereafter mentioned. But supposing that the -conjecture as to the name of Kirkwall is correct, it does not prove that -there was not a Culdee church there.<a name="FNanchor_124_124" id="FNanchor_124_124"></a><a href="#Footnote_124_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a> Planned 1855.</p> - -<h3><i>Note by Geo. Petrie, Kirkwall, Corr. Mem. Soc. Antiq. Scot.</i></h3> - -<p>According to Jo. Ben, whose description of Orkney is dated in 1529, St. -Ola’s Church was reduced to ashes by the English, probably during one of -their many raids on the islands about that time. One of the raids was on -13th August 1502. As apparently corroborative of Sir Henry Dryden’s -conjecture, that St. Ola’s Church was the parish church before the -cathedral was so styled, an old charter in my possession proves that not -only was the church known as St. Ola’s Kirk, but it had “St. Olaf’s -Kirkyard,” “St. Olaf’s Burn,” and “St. Olaf’s Brig” in its vicinity. I -think the fair inference from this is, that a church built here during -the early part of the Norsemen’s possession of the islands was dedicated -with its “kirkyard” to St. Olaf. The name soon extended to the -neighbouring small stream or burn, and the “brig” by which it was -crossed; and in the course of time embraced a considerable portion of -the surrounding country. It is very probable that St. Ola’s Kirk -occupied the same site on which stood the older building, from which the -town was named by the Norsemen Kirkevaag (Kirk-bay), which was anciently -pronounced “Kirkwaw,” and appears in that form in some old documents in -my possession.</p> - -<p>The fact that St. Ola’s Church had been destroyed in the beginning of -the sixteenth century renders it almost certain that Sir Henry Dryden -must be correct in attributing the erection of the church, of which -there are considerable remains, to Bishop Robert Reid, as the style of -architecture, as shown by Sir Henry, is in keeping with the period to -which he supposes the building to belong.</p> - -<p>The charter I have referred to is dated at “Kirkwall in Orknay ye last -of July” 1580, and granted by “John Tailyor and Henrie Tailyor brether -germane, and airis to our umqle fayir (father) Andro Tailyor, to our -weil-be-louit friend Magnus Paplay” of “All and Haill ane hall, ane -seller, ane chalm. yr.aboue wyt. yaird and pt.nents yr.to p.tene.g -quhatsomeuir lyand adjacent to Sanct Olaiffis brig, Kirk and Kirkyaird -of the samy. having on the Est pt. y.roff the housses p.tene.g to -Symound<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113">{113}</a></span> Beatoun; on the West pt. Sanct Olaiffis Kirk and yaird of the -samy.; on the South pt. the housses p.tene.g to Johnne Vysshart and Sant -Olaffis burne yr. betuixt and to ye North pt. Sanct Katereins quoyis.”</p> - -<h3>THE FOLLOWING CHURCHES ARE OF THE TYPE CONTAINING CHANCEL AND NAVE.</h3> - -<h3>CHURCH ON THE ISLAND OF WYRE.</h3> - -<p>This stands on a flat piece of ground about the middle of the island, in -a walled burial-ground, still used. The chapel has no roof, and is much -filled up with rubbish. Large parts of the south wall have tumbled, as -well as smaller portions of other walls. (<a href="#fig_80">Fig. 80.</a>)</p> - -<p>It is built of grey whinstone, without any freestone dressings. The -stones average about 1 foot 6 inches long by about 5 inches thick. It</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_80" id="fig_80"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_113.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_113.png" width="361" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 80.</span>—Church, Wyre, Orkney. From South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">consists of chancel and nave, with a door at west end—all built at the -same time. (<a href="#fig_81">Fig. 81.</a>) The extreme exterior length is 35 feet 10 inches, -and width 18 feet 4 inches. It stands west by south and east by north. -The nave is 19 feet 2 inches by 12 feet 10 inches inside.</p> - -<p>The west entrance is 2 feet 6 inches wide at bottom, with semicircular -head, the feet of which are set back at the impost 2½ inches on each -side. (<a href="#fig_82">Fig. 82.</a>) This mode of putting the arch on was probably done to -give a support to the centre on which the arch was built. The jambs are -parallel, 3 feet 2 inches thick, and have no rebate for a door, nor any -traces of there having been one.<a name="FNanchor_125_125" id="FNanchor_125_125"></a><a href="#Footnote_125_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a> There is no cap. The impost is 4 -feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114">{114}</a></span> 11 inches above original stone sill. The whole interior is from 1 -foot 6 inches to 2 feet deep in rubbish.</p> - -<p>The west wall is 3 feet 2 inches thick, the north and south about 3 -feet.</p> - -<p>There are no windows on the north or west of the nave. There are two on -the south side, but only one of these appears original. This has a</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_81" id="fig_81"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_114.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_114.png" height="383" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 81.</span>—Church, Wyre, Orkney. Plan and North and South -Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">clear opening of 1 foot 10 inches by 8 inches, with a flat head. The -jambs splay inward to 2 feet 3 inches in width. The outer edges are -broken, so that it is uncertain whether it had an external chamfer.</p> - -<p>The upper part of the side walls is in many places destroyed, but as far -as can be now ascertained, the top of the nave walls was 11 feet 5 -inches above the sill of west door. The chancel walls were only 4 or 5 -inches lower.</p> - -<p>The upper part of all the gables is gone.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115">{115}</a></span></p> - -<p>The chancel arch is exactly like the west entrance in every way. The -jambs are 3 feet thick. A springer of the gable-coping remains at the -north-east angle, 1 foot wide, 7 or 8 inches thick, and of 1 foot -projection. In 1852 the springer at the south-west angle was existing. -The chancel is 7 feet 10 inches by 7 feet 2 inches inside.</p> - -<p>There is one window on the south which appears to have been round -headed, and 2 feet 7 inches by 11 inches. The jambs splay inward to</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_82" id="fig_82"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_115.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_115.png" width="289" height="366" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 82.</span>—Church, Wyre, Orkney. Sections and East and -West Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>2 feet 11 inches in width. The outer edges are broken, but there seems -to have been an external splay. There is no ambry, and no trace of altar -or altar place.</p> - -<p>The springers of the gable-coping remain at the south-east and -north-east angles. These are 1 foot wide and about 8 inches thick, and -project 1 foot.</p> - -<p>The roofs of nave and chancel were either of tie-beam construction or of -rafters coupled half-way up, and covered with stone slates.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116">{116}</a></span></p> - -<p>My conjectural restoration makes the ridge of the nave roof 19 feet -above the sill of the west entrance. This chapel closely resembles in -size and form the chapel at Lybster, in Caithness, described farther on -in this work (p. 162). Probably Wyre Chapel is of the twelfth or -thirteenth century, but the characteristics are not decisive enough to -approximate more closely to its date. It is called “Cubberow” Chapel, -from its vicinity to Cubberow Castle.</p> - -<p>The exterior length of the nave is equal to the diagonal of the square -of its exterior width. The chancel is nearly square.</p> - -<h3>CHURCH ON THE ISLAND OF ENHALLOW.</h3> - -<p>This church, till lately, was unknown for many years, having been -converted long ago into a cottage. On the small island Enhallow (the -Holy Island), on the south-west slope of it, and about 200 yards from -the shore, is a cluster of four cottages, in which four families lived. -In 18—fever broke out among them, and the owner, Mr. Balfour, took the -whole</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_83" id="fig_83"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_116.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_116.png" width="329" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 83.</span>—Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">off the island, and pulled the roofs off the cottages. In this clearance -the church was discovered. Having been altered and added to in its -church time, and having since been altered and added to in its domestic -time, its history is very puzzling.</p> - -<p>It is of grey whinstones, mostly from 1 foot to 2 feet long (average 1 -foot 6 inches), and 6 inches to 2 inches thick. The exterior length is -52 feet 8 inches, and the extreme width 23 feet 4 inches. It stands -nearly exactly east and west. (<a href="#fig_83">Fig. 83.</a>) The nave is 20 feet 7 inches by -12 feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117">{117}</a></span> inside. On the west of this, and entered through a round-headed -arch, 4 feet 3 inches wide, with parallel jambs 2 feet 8 inches thick, -is a building 7 feet 9 inches and 7 feet 5 inches inside, with walls 2 -feet 7 inches thick, without any doorway to the outside, and with only -one small square window to the south, perhaps not original. It is in the -position of a tower, but it is not likely that a tower of that size -would have been added to so small a church, and the walls are too thin. -The size and character of the arch into it (<a href="#fig_84">Fig. 84</a>) are against the -notion that it was a</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_84" id="fig_84"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_117.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_117.png" width="402" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 84.</span>—Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Sections and East -Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">priest’s room, supposing the room to be cotemporary with the arch. So -little remains of the side walls that with regard to the windows and -roof and height we are left to conjecture. There is no appearance of its -having been higher than the nave. It most resembles a chancel on the -west, and there is in Uyea, Shetland, a chapel with an adjunct, -apparently original, in that position. If we may suppose that the west -arch was the <i>original</i> entrance to the church, and that the south -doorway was of later date, then this building may have been a sacristy, -cotemporary with the south doorway. The floor of the late cottage was -about 1 foot 3 inches above what appears to have been the floor of the -west arch, which is 5 feet 5 inches below the top of cap. The north wall -is 2 feet 10 inches thick, and the south wall 2 feet 6 inches. They are -about 10 feet 6 inches or 11 feet above the supposed sill of the west -arch.</p> - -<p>The south doorway is of ecclesiastical date, even if the jambs are not -original. The north doorway is perhaps domestic, though resembling<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118">{118}</a></span> that -on south. They have the usual rebate and wooden frames fixed in them, -and have lately been the doors of the cottage.</p> - -<p>The heads are square. (<a href="#fig_85">Fig. 85.</a>) Probably at the beginning of the -domestic period the south one was altered in some degree, and the north -one made or altered. If the building at the west end was the original -chancel, these entrances are not cotemporary with <i>that</i>, being in wrong -position for that arrangement.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_85" id="fig_85"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_118.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_118.png" width="346" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 85.</span>—Church, Enhallow, Orkney. North and South -Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is not certain whether the present chancel on the east is cotemporary -with the nave, or whether there was an earlier one or none; but the -present chancel arch is clearly an addition of a much later date than -the nave. (See <a href="#fig_84">Fig. 84.</a>) It is 4 feet 1 inch wide, pointed, has red -freestone caps chamfered, and the mark of insertion is clear on the -north side of it. It will be seen that the nave is 11 feet 3 inches wide -at west end, and 12 feet at east, and in the south-east corner there is -a slight projection and roughness. This may be the junction of a former -south wall of the nave which got out of repair, or it may be the -junction of the jamb of the chancel arch. When the chapel came to be -used for a cottage it was divided into two stories. (<a href="#fig_86">Fig. 86.</a>)</p> - -<p>On the north (<a href="#fig_87">Fig. 87</a>) is one window, square headed, 2 feet by 1 foot 2 -inches clear, with splayed jambs, but without freestone dressings or -external chamfer, and in north-east corner is an ambry 3 feet 9 inches -by 3 feet 9 inches, and 1 foot 6 inches recess. The bottom is 3 feet 6 -inches above the original floor. The position is peculiar.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119">{119}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_86" id="fig_86"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_119-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_119-a.png" width="342" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 86.</span>—Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Sections.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_87" id="fig_87"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_119-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_119-b.png" width="373" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 87.</span>—Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Sections.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120">{120}</a></span></p> - -<p>On the south is a window like that on the north, and three small -ambries, perhaps one or all domestic.</p> - -<p>The windows and doors on the north side of the nave and chancel are -higher than on south side, owing to the slope of the ground.</p> - -<p>The chancel is 12 feet 8 inches by 8 feet 9 inches inside, set out -symmetrically with the nave. (See <a href="#fig_83">Fig. 83.</a>) When it was made domestic a -doorway was cut in the north wall. For some reason the upper part of the -south wall was pulled down, and a casing put <i>outside</i> the lower part. A -fireplace and chimney were made in the east wall, and a new face put -outside the whole east end, including the added piece on the south, for -no break or juncture is visible outside the east end. On the north is -one window 2 feet by 1 foot clear, with splayed jambs, but no freestone -dressings, and no external chamfer.<a name="FNanchor_126_126" id="FNanchor_126_126"></a><a href="#Footnote_126_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a> To the east of it is a small -ambry. The window and ambry on the north are on a higher level than on -the south.</p> - -<p>When the casing was added on the south, the window was shifted out, or a -lintel put in the added piece. Red freestone quoins and two sills (or -possibly one, a square head) are lying near, and the jambs of the south -window are much broken. Probably this sill, jamb stones, and head formed -the south window, and are cotemporary with the chancel arch, having, -perhaps, supplanted a window like that on the north.</p> - -<p>Outside the south door of nave is a square addition, measuring 8 feet 1 -inch by 7 feet 7 inches inside, now only 6 feet high, containing a -radiating stair of five freestone steps. (See <a href="#fig_83">Fig. 83.</a>) The west wall of -it is 3 feet, and the south and east 2 feet 3 inches. There is no -evidence of what this was, or led to, but the building certainly is -ecclesiastical by the character of the work. The entrance to it from -outside is on the east. Perhaps the stair led to a priest’s room or -parvise over the porch, which, however, must have been very small; or it -led to a bell turret. There are several jamb stones of red freestone -belonging to a doorway lying about, and one (apparently in its proper -position) is in the jamb of the outer entrance of this porch. (<a href="#fig_88">Fig. 88.</a>) -This makes it probable that this building is cotemporary with chancel -arch. The red freestone window jambs, above mentioned, may have come out -of this porch. Whatever the upper part of this porch was, the roof must -have been higher than the eaves of the nave.</p> - -<p>Plaster, apparently ancient, remains on the south wall of chancel lower -part—on jambs of north window of chancel on east side of the chancel -arch in the ambry on north side of the nave.</p> - -<p>The roof was either of tie-beam arrangement, or of rafters coupled -half-way up and covered with stone slates, or “divots.” The ridge of the -nave roof was about 18 feet above sill of west arch.</p> - -<p>The general history may be thus conjectured. In the eleventh or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121">{121}</a></span> twelfth -century a chapel was built of nave and chancel at the east end of the -nave, and an entrance in the west end of the nave. In the fourteenth</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_88" id="fig_88"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_121-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_121-a.png" width="391" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 88.</span>—Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">century a new chancel arch was inserted, north and south doorways made, -sacristy built at the west end, and a porch and parvise made outside the -south doorway. After it became domestic the changes before described -were made in the chancel. At a later date other additions were made. -(<a href="#fig_89">Fig. 89.</a>)</p> - -<p>If we suppose that the west building is the original <i>chancel</i>, the -original <i>entrance</i> was in the place now occupied by the chancel arch.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_89" id="fig_89"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_121-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_121-b.png" width="417" height="139" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 89.</span>—Enhallow. View.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122">{122}</a></span></p> - -<p>The proportion of the inside of the nave is that of the “vesica -piscis”—the width to the length as the base of an equilateral triangle -to the length of two such triangles on opposite sides of that base, and -the internal length of the chancel is equal to the diagonal of the -square of the internal width.</p> - -<p>Barry mentions a tradition that neither rats, mice, nor cats will live -on the island, which tradition agrees with the name of the island.</p> - -<h3>CHAPEL AT LINTON, <span class="smcap">in Shapinsay</span>.</h3> - -<p>This chapel is near the shore at the south-east part of the island. It -consists of nave and chancel, and stands nearly exactly east and west. -(<a href="#fig_90">Fig. 90.</a>) The extreme length is 35 feet 9 inches, and the width 19 feet</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_90" id="fig_90"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_122.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_122.png" height="359" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 90.</span>—Linton Chapel. Plan and Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>5 inches. About 7 feet in height of the east end of the nave, including -the arch into the chancel (<a href="#fig_91">Fig. 91</a>), remains; but of the rest only -about<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123">{123}</a></span> 2 feet and 3 feet remain. It is built of whinstone without any -freestone dressings.</p> - -<p>The nave is 18 feet by 13 feet 7 inches inside. The walls are 3 feet -thick.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_91" id="fig_91"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_123-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_123-a.png" width="366" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 91.</span>—Linton Chapel. View.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The entrance is in the south wall near the west angle, differing in this -point from most of the early chapels, and is 2 feet 8 inches wide with -parallel unrebated jambs.<a name="FNanchor_127_127" id="FNanchor_127_127"></a><a href="#Footnote_127_127" class="fnanchor">[127]</a> The upper part of the entrance is gone, -but probably it was a semicircular arch. (<a href="#fig_92">Fig. 92.</a>) Nothing can be -stated</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124">{124}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_92" id="fig_92"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_123-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_123-b.png" width="255" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 92.</span>—Linton Chapel. Section and Elevations.</p><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 92.</span>—Linton Chapel. Section and Elevations.</p><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 92.</span>—Linton Chapel. Section and Elevations.</p><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 92.</span>—Linton Chapel. Section and Elevations.</p><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 92.</span>—Linton Chapel. Section and Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of the windows. The chancel arch (see <a href="#fig_92">Fig. 92.</a>) is semicircular, of rough -stone, 3 feet wide, with plain parallel jambs, and the arch is set back -on the jambs at the impost, which is about 5 feet 6 inches high from the -supposed floor of the nave. The inside is much filled with rubbish. It -is uncertain whether there was a step at the chancel arch. The chancel -is 7 feet 6 inches by 7 feet inside, narrower than the nave by the -thickness of the walls. The north and south walls are 2 feet 10 inches -thick, and the east wall 3 feet 4 inches. Only about 2 feet in height of -the east wall remains, though within the memory of man the east gable -was standing and a cross on it.</p> - -<p>Nothing can be stated of the windows. The exterior length of the nave -and the interior width are in the proportion of the vesica piscis. The -chancel is nearly square.</p> - -<p>This chapel bears close resemblance in form and size to Wyre Chapel, and -is probably about the same date. It is supposed by the owner that Linton -Farm formed part of St. Catherine’s lands, and that this chapel was -dedicated to that Saint.</p> - -<h3>CHAPEL IN WESTRAY.</h3> - -<p>This is in the “West Graveyard,” which is still used, though the chapel -has been for many years a ruin. It consists of nave and chancel, and is -built of the schist of the locality. It stands east and west, within two -degrees. (<a href="#fig_93">Fig. 93.</a>)</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125">{125}</a></span></p><div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_93" id="fig_93"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_124.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_124.png" width="401" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 93.</span>—Chapel in Westray. Plan and South Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The nave originally measured 19 feet east and west by 13 feet 4 inches -north and south inside, but was elongated long subsequently to its -erection, so that latterly it was 46 feet 7 inches by 13 feet 4 inches -inside. The original length is shown by a break in the south wall at 24 -feet 7 inches from the south-east angle of the nave, and by the position -of the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_94" id="fig_94"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_125.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_125.png" width="391" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 94.</span>—Chapel in Westray. Sections.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">original doorway, which at the elongation was stopped up. There is also -a tradition that the church was enlarged, and when certain people within -memory were pulling it down, an old inhabitant begged them not to “pull -down the Danes’ work,” alluding to the chancel and eastern part of the -nave. Of the elongation little more than the foundations remain; but it -is evident that there was not a door in the west end or north side, so -that it must have been somewhere in the south wall, between the old -blocked doorway and the south-west angle. The side walls are 3 feet -thick. Of the old part of the south wall, fortunately, we have -considerable part. (See <a href="#fig_93">Fig. 93.</a>) The old doorway is nearly complete. It -had plain parallel jambs, without rebate, 2 feet 4 inches apart, a plain -projecting abacus, and a semicircular head set back at the impost. To -the east of that is a window entire. It has a semicircular head, and -measures 2 feet 7 inches high by 11½ inches clear opening, with jambs -splayed to the width of 1 foot 7½ inches.</p> - -<p>The chancel arch remains entire. (<a href="#fig_94">Fig. 94.</a>) It has plain angular jambs 4 -feet apart, a plain abacus of schist and a semicircular head.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126">{126}</a></span> The -impost is 5 feet 7 inches above what appears to be the old floor. (<a href="#fig_95">Fig. -95.</a>) The wall is 2 feet 9 inches thick. The chancel is 9 feet 1 inch -east and west by 6 feet 8 inches north and south inside. It had a</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_95" id="fig_95"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_126-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_126-a.png" width="416" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 95.</span>—Chapel in Westray. View from North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">cylindrical vault, of which part remains. (<a href="#fig_96">Fig. 96.</a>) It springs from the -level of the impost of the chancel arch, and is slightly set back at the -impost, as many of the old arches were, to give support to the -centering.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_96" id="fig_96"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_126-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_126-b.png" width="406" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 96.</span>—Chapel in Westray. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It had one window, which was in the east end, which is now gone; but -within a few years the east gable was existing. According to an old -inhabitant the east window was like the south one in the nave. The vault -is 1 foot 3 inches thick.</p> - -<p>In the graveyard is lying what appears to be the saddlestone of one of -the gables, of the red sandstone of Eday.</p> - -<p>This chapel probably is of the twelfth century, and possibly of the -thirteenth. Planned 1870.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127">{127}</a></span></p> - -<h3>CHURCH ON EGILSEY.</h3> - -<p>The island on which this church stands is about three miles north and -south and one mile east and west. The church is on the west side of it -near the Howa Sound, which separates Egilsey from Rousay, and is a -conspicuous object from all sides, as the island has no prominent -points, and the church is on the highest ground.</p> - -<p>The flood tide runs from north-west to south-east. There is a -landing-place at the south point and on west side, but not at north -point. The name Egilsey or Egilshay is derived from an ancient form of -the Gaelic word <i>eaglais</i>, a church (derived from ecclesia), with the -Norse addition of <i>ey</i>, an island.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_97" id="fig_97"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_127.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_127.png" width="338" height="139" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 97.</span>—Church on Egilsey. Ground Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Professor Munch infers that the Norsemen founded a church here, and -called the island after it; and if this is the case, the date of the -erection of the church is put very far back, unless we suppose this to -be a <i>second</i> church. It was dedicated to St. Magnus; but this might be -a second dedication, and probably was so. At the end of this article are -further remarks on this point. The church is complete, except the roofs -and the upper part of the tower, and was used up to about 18—as the -place of worship. It consists of a chancel nave and tower at the west -end of the nave, and stands nearly exactly east and west. (<a href="#fig_97">Fig. 97.</a>)</p> - -<p>The only alterations which appear to have been made in the building are -two or three windows. The ground plan shows a proportion which, if not -intentional, is singular. If four circles of the exterior diameter of -the tower are laid down in a line, and the first occupied by the tower, -the second and third fill the inside of the nave, and the fourth takes -in the chancel, including the side walls, but excluding the east wall. -The whole is of grey whinstone, without any freestone dressings, and has -become very picturesque in colour, from the rich grey lichen on some -parts and bright yellow lichen on others.</p> - -<p>The masonry is chiefly in courses, but the size of the stones very -irregular, some being as large as 4 feet long and 1 foot 6 inches deep.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128">{128}</a></span> -The interstices are filled with very small stones. Here and there -irregular blocks are inserted.</p> - -<p>The whole is built with mortar.</p> - -<p>The extreme length is 62 feet 9 inches, and the extreme width is 21 feet -7 inches.</p> - -<p>The nave is 29 feet 9 inches by 15 feet 6 inches inside. The north and -south walls are 3 feet thick. On the north and south, opposite each -other, are two doorways 2 feet 6 inches wide. These have round arched</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_98" id="fig_98"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_128.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_128.png" width="386" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 98.</span>—Church on Egilsey. Section from West to East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">heads and rebated jambs without chamfers. On the north side of the nave -is a window 3 feet 3 inches high and 8½ inches wide at the outside of -the wall with semicircular head. (Figs. 98-100.) The jambs are splayed -inwards to 2 feet 9 inches wide. On the south is a similar window. It is -to be observed that these windows have no external chamfer—that is, the -outer edges of the jambs are acute angles. This peculiarity is found in -early Irish churches.<a name="FNanchor_128_128" id="FNanchor_128_128"></a><a href="#Footnote_128_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> They were not originally glazed, but probably -had a frame fitted into them, when required, covered with parchment. On -this south side are two windows, not original—one close to the east -wall and low down, the other high up over the south doorway, (see <a href="#fig_102">Fig. -102</a>.)</p> - -<p>The side walls are about 15 feet 4 inches high from the floor, equal to -the internal width of the nave.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129">{129}</a></span></p> - -<p>On the west of the nave is the tower, which is circular, 14 feet 10½ -inches diameter externally, and 7 feet 8 inches diameter internally. An -arch 2 feet 5 inches wide leads from the nave into it. (<a href="#fig_101">Fig. 101.</a>) The -jambs are 3 feet 7 inches thick, and the head is semicircular. The tower -appears to have been built with the nave, although the stones in the -tower are on the average smaller than those in the nave, which -difference may be accounted for by the unfitness of large stones, when -not freestone, for circular work.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_99" id="fig_99"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_129.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_129.png" width="403" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 99.</span>—Church on Egilsey. Section from East to West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The tower seems to have contained four chambers, including the one on -the ground.</p> - -<p>Above the tower arch, at 16 feet 3 inches from the floor of the nave, -but under the nave roof, is an arched opening in the tower 5 feet 4 -inches high and 2 feet 3 inches wide. A similar opening is found in many -early churches in England, the use of which is not ascertained.</p> - -<p>Arches in the same position are in St. Magnus.</p> - -<p>The nave roof appears to have been of a “square pitch”—that is, the -angle at the apex is about a right angle. Of the construction of the -roof we know nothing, except that it was not vaulted.</p> - -<p>Probably all the rafters were framed in couples, and the covering formed -of coarse slates.</p> - -<p>Each end of the roof is terminated by a wall 1 foot 2 inches wide, -formed of corby-steps, standing up above the roof as usual. The ridge -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130">{130}</a></span> the roof was about 25 feet above the floor. Above the roof of the -nave in the east side of the tower is an arched opening 4 feet 1 inch -high and 1 foot 9 inches wide. At about 7 feet above this is a smaller -opening in the east side, and similar ones in the three other sides of -this story. The top of the tower is now about 11 feet wide, and about 48 -feet from the floor of the nave. It is stated that about 15 feet was -taken off the top. Probably it was surmounted by a conical roof.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_100" id="fig_100"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_130.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_130.png" width="398" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 100.</span>—Church on Egilsey. North Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>On the south side, and near the ground, is a window, but this is a -modern work. There is a small window in the second story looking north. -(See <a href="#fig_99">Fig. 99.</a>)</p> - -<p>The chancel is 14 feet 11 inches by 9 feet 5½ inches inside; the side -walls 2 feet 9 inches thick, and the east wall about the same. It is -roofed with a plain barrel vault, of which the semicircular chancel arch -forms part. (See <a href="#fig_101">Fig. 101.</a>) The impost of this arch is 5 feet from the -floor of the nave. Probably there was a step here or a little farther -east.</p> - -<p>The pressure of the vault has forced out the jambs of the arch (that is, -the side walls), and given the arch a horse-shoe form. Dr. Wilson lays -some stress on this peculiarity of form, taking it to be intentional, -but it is purely the result of lateral pressure.</p> - -<p>The east end has no window. On the north is a window 1 foot 7½ inches -high and 11 inches wide at the outside, with a semicircular head, below -the impost of the vault. The jambs are splayed inward to 2 feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131">{131}</a></span> 1 inch -in width, without an external chamfer. On the south is a similar window. -(<a href="#fig_102">Fig. 102.</a>) Probably, like the nave windows, they were not originally -glazed.</p> - -<p>Over the vault of the chancel is a chamber, entered from the nave by a -semicircular arch 6 feet 4 inches high and 2 feet 2 inches wide, over -the chancel arch. (See <a href="#fig_101">Fig. 101.</a>)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_101" id="fig_101"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_131.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_131.png" height="313" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 101.</span>—Church on Egilsey. West and East Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is lit by a flat-headed window in the east end, 1 foot 6 inches high. -This probably served as a depository for books, muniments, &c.</p> - -<p>It is called by the country people “Grief House,” and supposed to have -been a prison, &c.</p> - -<p>The side walls of this chamber are 2 feet 4½ inches thick, and the east -wall 2 feet 7½ inches.</p> - -<p>The ridge of the chancel roof was 20 feet 9 inches above the floor of -the nave. [Figs. 103, 104 show the appearance of the building from -south-east and north-west.]</p> - -<p>It remains too approximate to the date of this church.</p> - -<p>There was a church in Egilsey when St. Magnus was murdered in 1110. The -attaching so large a tower to the church tends to show that this was a -church of a superior order when it was built.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132">{132}</a></span></p> - -<p>The style of architecture (<a href="#fig_103">Fig. -103</a>, <a href="#fig_104">Fig. 104</a>) (discarding certain -indications of an earlier date) prevents our assigning to it a later -date than the beginning of the twelfth century. When we contrast it with -the Kirkwall Cathedral, begun in 1137, we are forced to give an earlier -date than that to Egilsey. This opinion is corroborated by the churches -at Orphir and the Brough of Birsa. The islands were conquered by the -Norsemen in 876, and reconverted to Christianity in 998. The church, -therefore, was probably not built between those dates. There were -Christians in these islands before the arrival of the Norsemen. The name -of the island, as</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_102" id="fig_102"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_132.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_132.png" width="396" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 102.</span>—Church on Egilsey. South Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">before mentioned, is evidence that there was a church of distinction in -Egilsey when they arrived.</p> - -<p>Neale<a name="FNanchor_129_129" id="FNanchor_129_129"></a><a href="#Footnote_129_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a> supposes that the church to which St. Magnus fled was on the -east side of the island; supposing Haco to have come from Birsay by the -north of Rousay to the east of Egilsey. Haco’s starting point is not -certain; but if it was Birsay, he would naturally have come by the south -of Rousay to the west of Egilsey.</p> - -<p>There is some confusion about the Episcopal Church and residence. Barry -(p. 162) quotes Torfœus as stating that Bishop William lived in Egilsey. -Neale (following Barry) has made the same statement.</p> - -<p>Torfœus twice states that the bishop resided at Birsa.</p> - -<p>The Saga is still more to the point, and states that at the time of St.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133">{133}</a></span> -Magnus’s death William the Old was bishop, and the see was then at -Birsa. But Torfœus, in three or more other passages, states that Bishop -William <i>was in</i> Egilsey—not necessarily <i>residing</i> there.</p> - -<p>We must understand (if Torfœus is right) that he generally <i>lived</i> in -Birsa, but often officiated at Egilsey. We may thence infer that Egilsey -was an important church in Bishop William’s time, and that it was fixed</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_103" id="fig_103"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_133.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_133.png" width="436" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 103.</span>—Church on Egilsey.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">on as the place of meeting of Haco and Magnus from being frequently the -bishop’s abode. We do not, however, find the bishop mentioned in the -account of the murder of St. Magnus as adviser or mediator.<a name="FNanchor_130_130" id="FNanchor_130_130"></a><a href="#Footnote_130_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a></p> - -<p>Wilson, in his <i>Prehistoric Annals</i>, p. 587, has a notice of this -church, to which the reader is referred. He supposes it to be the work -of Irish Christians before the expedition of Harold in 876, and to be -the church which caused the Norsemen to give its present appellation to -the island.</p> - -<p>There is at all events nothing to disprove this, but if we put the tower -for the moment out of the question, there is little to induce the -assignment of so early a date. The absence of freestone, the round -arches, the chancel vault, the small number and size of the windows, do -not necessitate a date earlier than the twelfth century.</p> - -<p>The tower, then, is the feature which specially points to an earlier<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134">{134}</a></span> -period. Dr. Wilson apparently inclines to class this tower with the -later round towers of Scotland and Ireland.</p> - -<p>When, however, we compare it, there appears little or no resemblance -except its circularity.</p> - -<p>The round towers, with one or two exceptions, are detached buildings, -though situated within a few feet of churches, have their entrances at</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_104" id="fig_104"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_134.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_134.png" width="277" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 104.</span>—Church on Egilsey. North-West View.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">several feet from the ground, and have jambs inclined towards each other -upwards. They have other differences of construction, which, however, -may be in part accounted for by the difference of the available -materials.</p> - -<p>The Irish tower which most resembles Egilsey is the smaller one of the -two at Clonmacnoise. This is an integral part of the church, and joined -to the south-east angle of the nave. The entrance to it is on the -ground, from the chancel. To this church Dr. Petrie assigns the date of -some years before 1000 (p. 271). In many particulars the tower at -Egilsey approximates more closely to the round towers of Norfolk, which -are of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. There is no evidence of -another church in another place having existed in the island; nor -account of the <i>building</i> of any church in the island.</p> - -<p>These, however, are very slight evidences of the antiquity of the -present church.</p> - -<p>There does not appear to be positive evidence that the Christian priests -were exterminated by the Norse conquest; though it is probable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135">{135}</a></span> that -they would fly westward. If, however, we give up the idea of its Norse -origin, we ought to find resemblances between it and the ancient Irish -churches of the eighth, ninth, and tenth centuries. These we do find. -First, the size of Egilsey is close on the authoritative size of the -more important of the ancient churches, presuming the present foot to be -about equal to the ancient Irish foot. The authorised Irish size is 60 -feet by 27 feet; Egilsey is 62 feet 9 inches and 21 feet 7 inches. The -lowness of the chancel, the chamber or “croft” over it, the second -chamber in the tower with an arch from it into the nave over the tower -arch, the number and size of the windows, the peculiarity of their -splays, having no exterior chamfer, the character of the masonry, all -resemble the early Irish churches. On the other hand, three great -criteria of an early Irish church are not found in Egilsey—the -approximation of the jambs of doors and windows towards their imposts, -the horizontal heads to the doorways, and the east window. It seems, -however, probable that the difference of the materials induced one of -these differences. It was difficult to get in Orkney lintels strong and -long enough for heads of doorways, though we find them in the broughs. -The rebates in the doorways are again of a very early date.</p> - -<p>It seems on the whole fair to suppose Egilsey to have been built after -the traditional Irish form, but with modifications; and soon after the -reconversion of the islands to Christianity in 998. If built before that -time, we must refer it to the beginning or middle of the ninth century.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately Neale, when in Orkney, was unable to see this church, and -has given a cut, professing to be an approximate likeness of the tower, -which is very erroneous in several particulars. The etching in Muir’s -“Sketch” is also wrong in proportion.</p> - -<p>In the <i>Orcadian</i> of January 1855 is an account by Mr. Petrie of the -finding the remains of Bishop William “the Old” in the cathedral in -1848. His bones, and the chest containing them, were moved when the -cathedral was reseated in 1856. The leaden plate bearing the -inscription, and a bone article (doubtless the cross handle of his -walking stick) found in the chest, are now in the Edinburgh Museum.</p> - -<h3>CHURCH ON BROUGH OF BIRSAY.</h3> - -<p>The brough contains about 40 acres, and is separated on the east from -the mainland by a rocky channel, which is about 150 yards wide, and dry -at low water. The surface of the brough slopes down from a high cliff on -the west to a cliff of about 20 feet high on the east. The chapel is -about 50 yards from the shore at the point nearest to the mainland. -(<a href="#fig_105">Fig. 105.</a>) It is enclosed in a yard about 33 yards east and west, by 27 -yards north and south, of which the wall is destroyed. At the edge of -the cliff are traces of a wall. The chapel consists of nave, chancel, -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136">{136}</a></span> apse, all well defined, and all apparently built at the same time. -(<a href="#fig_106">Fig. 106.</a>) The material is grey whinstone, and no traces of freestone -dressings appear. It stands nearly east and west, but the west end -facing a little to the north of west.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_105" id="fig_105"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_136-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_136-a.png" width="402" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 105.</span>—Church on Brough of Birsay. Plan of Site and -Towers.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The extreme exterior length is 57 feet, and extreme width 21 feet 3 -inches.</p> - -<p>The west wall is 3 feet 8 inches thick; the north and south walls of -nave and aisles 2 feet 9 inches; the wall of apse 2 feet 4 inches. There -were no buttresses.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_106" id="fig_106"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_136-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_136-b.png" width="331" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 106.</span>—Church on Brough of Birsay. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The interior is filled with debris to the depth of about 2 feet 6 inches -above the floor, and the exterior to about the same depth. Partial -excavations were made for this plan. Of the west end, only 3 feet in -height of wall remains (<a href="#fig_107">Fig. 107</a>); of the north wall (<a href="#fig_108">Fig. 108</a>) a little -more, and of south wall a little less; of the north wall of chancel, 8 -feet 6 inches; of south wall of chancel, about 2 feet; of the apse, -about 2 feet 4 inches. The nave is 28 feet 3 inches by 15 feet 6 inches -inside.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137">{137}</a></span> The only entrance to the church is in the west end, 3 feet 8 -inches wide. The jambs are parallel, without any chamfer, and there is -no rebate for a door nor appearance of hinges; and original plaster -remains on the jamb down to the sill and all across it. There is no -appearance of the insertion of a wooden frame. This mode of making jambs -of doorways is to be seen at Lybster in Caithness, Wyre, Lynton in -Shapinsay, Uya in Shetland, and in some of the oratories in Ireland, -&c.<a name="FNanchor_131_131" id="FNanchor_131_131"></a><a href="#Footnote_131_131" class="fnanchor">[131]</a> Were there doors in these doorways,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_107" id="fig_107"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_137.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_137.png" height="351" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 107.</span>—Church on Brough of Birsay. East and West -Elevations and Sections.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and, if so, where placed and how hung? It is known that in many cottages -in old times the door was an animal’s hide hung across the opening, and -probably this may have been the case in these unrebated church -entrances. Possibly this plain jamb may be an evidence of antiquity; -though Egilsey and Kirk of the Ness in Yell have the usual form of jamb. -Probably this doorway was surmounted by a semicircular arch, though many -of the ruder chapels had square-headed doorways with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138">{138}</a></span> large stone -lintel, as at Lybster, Caithness. There are very few instances of the -passage between a nave and chancel being square-headed. Where there is a -semicircular arch on plain jambs, as in the doorways beforementioned, -and in some chancel arches, as at Linton, Shapinsay; Kirk of the Ness, -Yell; Wyre, &c., there is generally a peculiarity which may be mentioned -here—the feet of the arch are set back on the jambs at the imposts two -or three inches on each side. This was probably to support the centre on -which the arch was built, instead of supporting it by props from the -floor.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_108" id="fig_108"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_138.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_138.png" width="376" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 108.</span>—Church on Brough of Birsay. North Side -Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the north-east and south-east corners are two circular spaces 5 feet -6 inches in diameter (see <a href="#fig_108">Fig. 108.</a>), the south one of which contains a -freestone stair step, and the north one some broken stone. Probably both -were staircases; but how high they reached, to what they led, and what -was the superstructure we can only conjecture. One or both may have led -to turrets, or to priests’ rooms over the chancel arch, or chancel or -nave. We cannot suppose a rood-loft to have existed here. The support of -the west side of the stairs is now gone, but we must suppose that a -block of masonry existed which included the circle of the staircase. -Against this, the <i>seat</i> on the south apparently runs past the spot at -which it should have stood, and there are no decisive traces of a -junction in the north and south walls. There is no other solution of the -difficulty. This very massive separation between nave and chancel is -probably unique. M‘Cormac’s chapel at Cashel has a turret and a chamber -in nearly the same positions as these staircases; but the construction -in that case is clear.<a name="FNanchor_132_132" id="FNanchor_132_132"></a><a href="#Footnote_132_132" class="fnanchor">[132]</a></p> - -<p>A stone seat, 1 foot 2 inches high and 1 foot 2 inches wide, ran all -round the nave—at least, it was traced at west doorway and at the east<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139">{139}</a></span> -end of the south wall of the nave. The roof was probably of tie beam -construction, and covered with stone slabs.</p> - -<p>The entrance to the chancel is 4 feet 3 inches wide, of which 4 feet in -height of the jambs remain. They are 3 feet 7 inches thick from west to -east, but if the construction was that suggested above, the jambs were 7 -feet from west to east, including an entrance into each turret 2 feet -wide. (<a href="#fig_109">Fig. 109.</a>) The entrance to the chancel was probably surmounted by -a semicircular arch of whinstone, plastered, about 8 feet or 9 feet high -to the apex, with string-course caps 4 or 5 inches deep. The angles were -not chamfered.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_109" id="fig_109"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_139.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_139.png" width="357" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 109.</span>—Church on Brough of Birsay. Entrance to -Chancel, and Interior Elevation of West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There is a step in this entrance of only 2 inches, and from that to the -east end of the apse was flush originally. The pavement is of -flagstones. This low position of the original altar is peculiar.</p> - -<p>The chancel is 10 feet 9 inches east and west, and 10 feet 3 inches -inside. Only one window remains, which is in the north wall of chancel, -and this has lost its lintel (<a href="#fig_110">Fig. 110</a>). The clear opening was 3 feet by -10½ inches, with, as stated, a square head. The window has an internal -and external splay, each widening to 1 foot 10½ inches. This form is -peculiar. There was probably a frame, fixed in the narrow part of the -opening, containing glass. In this wall, just east of the window and -lower, is a square ambry, 3 feet high by 2 feet 8 inches wide, and 1 -foot 11 inches in recess. The use of so large an ambry is not evident. -The bottom of it is only 2 feet above the floor. There is no appearance -of its having had doors. In the north-east part of the nave of Enhallow -Chapel is a similar recess, and one in the same position as this in the -chapel on the Brough of Deerness. It is possible, but not probable, that -these were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140">{140}</a></span> Easter sepulchres. In the Kirk of the Ness, North Yell, is a -larger one. Of the south wall of the chancel so little remains that -nothing can be stated as to window piscina or sedile.</p> - -<p>It is remarkable that the floor was originally level to the end of the -apse, and no elevation given to the altar, which was probably at the -chord of the apse; but in later times they built a reredos which -<i>blocked off</i> the apse, and then they appear to have made steps to the -altar. Some part of the altar remains. It appears to have been 4 feet 1 -inch by 2 feet 7 inches. Possibly the reredos did not reach many feet -high, so that the upper part of the apse appeared over it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_110" id="fig_110"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_140.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_140.png" width="382" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 110.</span>—Church on Brough of Birsay. Section from West -to East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>As there were no buttresses, it is not likely that the chancel was -vaulted. The roof was probably of tie-beam construction, or of rafters -coupled half-way up, as in cottages, and covered as the nave roof. It is -probable that the apse was vaulted, and the arch into it may be -conjectured to have been 10 feet high, and semicircular, and to have -formed part of a plain vault, as at Orphir and St. Margaret’s Chapel at -Edinburgh. The ground plan is somewhat in the form of a horse-shoe -internally. Probably there was a small window in east end, and this must -have been at a lower level than the one on the north.</p> - -<p>The interior of the nave is of the proportion of the vesica piscis. The -width of the chancel is less than of the nave by the thickness of the -side walls. The interior of the chancel is square. It is stated in -Barry<a name="FNanchor_133_133" id="FNanchor_133_133"></a><a href="#Footnote_133_133" class="fnanchor">[133]</a> to have been dedicated to St. Peter, and to have been a place -of pilgrimage. The writer was informed that many years ago a skewer was -found, with a skull, outside the chapel. This was probably the pin of a -winding sheet.</p> - -<p>There can be little hesitation in assigning this church to about 1100.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141">{141}</a></span> -It is recorded that Earl Thorfin built Christ’s Church in Birsay, and -that the body of St. Magnus was buried there. It appears probable that -if St. Peter’s had been built as long after his death as his -canonisation, it would have been dedicated to him. Even if it had been -built in memory of St. Magnus before his canonisation, and dedicated to -some other saint, probably the dedication would have been changed after -his canonisation. As it is recorded that Thorfin built Christ’s Church, -it is probable that if he had, St. Peter’s would have been recorded -also. It is more probable that it was built by his second son, Erlend, -the father of St. Magnus.</p> - -<p>This church bears considerable resemblance to Old Bewick, -Northumberland, figured in Muir’s “Sketch”; to Moccas and Kilpeck in -Herefordshire, and to St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh.</p> - -<p>Mr. Leask of Boardhouse, in 1867, made an excavation in the church, to -determine, if possible, whether foundations exist of the walls supposed -to have enclosed the west sides of the circular recesses. He found none -and found plaster on the north wall of the nave, where the supposed wall -should have joined. Possibly the supposed walls were taken down during -the time the chapel was used. He found in the north wall of the nave, at -5 feet west of the angle of the recess, an entrance 2 feet 4 inches -wide. The position is very unusual. Planned 1866.</p> - -<h3>CHURCH AT ORPHIR, <span class="smcap">Orkney</span>.</h3> - -<p>This highly interesting fragment stands near the east end of the parish -church, and probably the reason why it has not obtained that notice -which it deserves is, that the larger and most interesting part of it -was destroyed before 1758, to build or enlarge the present parish -church. It consisted originally of a circular nave, and apsidal chancel -added to its east part. (<a href="#fig_111">Fig. 111.</a>) The chancel remains, but only 9 feet -on each side of it of the circular nave. Fortunately we have a short -record of its size and form in Sinclair’s <i>Statistical Accounts</i>, xix. -417, quoted in Wilson, <i>Prehistoric Annals</i>, 598. It is there -stated:—“In the churchyard are the remains of an ancient building -called the Girthhouse, to which great antiquity is ascribed. It is a -rotundo, 18 feet in diameter and 20 feet high, open at top; and on the -east side is a vaulted concavity, where probably the altar stood, with a -slit in the wall to admit the light; two-thirds of it have been taken -down to repair the parish church,” &c. In the translation of Torfœus by -the Rev. A. Pope is this note by the translator (p. 108), who visited -Orphir in 1758:—“The temple of Orphir, or Gerth-house, was a rotundo 22 -feet in diameter, and 61 feet perpendicular wall above ground. The -cupola, with the open for the light, was of an elegant cast, and the -light was all from the open, and lighted the house sufficiently. There -was a small slit in the east side for light to the priest, who stood in -a niche elegantly done. The work was very firm; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142">{142}</a></span> though at that time -there was a breach made in order to get stones to repair the parish -kirk, yet the stones crumbled to pieces before they could be loosed,” -&c.</p> - -<p>In the <i>Orcadian</i>, July 1861, is an account of this church by Mr. G. -Petrie. It is there stated that the present parish church was erected in -1829. (See also his notice of the ruins, in the <i>Archæological Journal</i>, -1861, No. 71, p. 226-230.)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_111" id="fig_111"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_142.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_142.png" width="416" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 111.</span>—Church at Orphir. Plan and Section through -Apse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is evident that the east wall of the parish church could not have -co-existed with the old nave, for the new church stands on part of it.</p> - -<p>From these several statements we must infer that part of the old church -was pulled down before 1758 to build or enlarge, not to repair, the -parish church, and possibly a farther portion pulled down in 1829.</p> - -<p>We must understand the “cupola” to be a conical roof, and “the open for -the light” to be a glazed lantern on it, which, however, was probably -not original. (<a href="#fig_112">Fig. 112.</a>) “Open at top,” in Sinclair, must refer to this -lantern. The framework of it must have been of wood, as at Ely.</p> - -<p>The curvature of the two parts of the nave wall still remaining gives an -interior diameter of about 19 feet, thus corroborating the diameters -given by Pope and Sinclair. Neither of these persons had seen the church -perfect; and the differences in the measures given by them show that -their informants did not speak from exact data. The “61 feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143">{143}</a></span> -perpendicular wall” is a gross mistake either of printer, or translator, -or his informant. Even the “20 feet high” seems over the mark, though -this may be a loose approximation to the height of the side walls.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_112" id="fig_112"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_143.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_143.png" width="312" height="369" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 112.</span>—Church at Orphir. Elevation of Apse, and -Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Supposing the preceding conjectures as to the shape of the roof to be -correct, the top of the “fleche” surmounting the lantern would be about -40 feet. Then, supposing that Pope was told that the height was 41 feet, -and the height of the side walls 20 feet, he might have added them -together.</p> - -<p>The diameter was less open to error than the height. One writer, -however, might give the outer diameter and the other the inner.</p> - -<p>It is built of yellow Orphir freestone. The nave walls are 3 feet 9 -inches thick, well built; and probably the entrance was at the west, as -in the other round churches.</p> - -<p>It is highly improbable that Pope is right in stating that “the light<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144">{144}</a></span> -was all from the open”—that is, that there were no windows in the nave -walls. Probably there were four single lights.</p> - -<p>The chancel, which is little more than the apse, is 7 feet 2 inches wide -and 7 feet 9 inches deep, or long, with wall 2 feet 8 inches thick. The -arch into it is semicircular, and forms part of a plain unribbed vault, -as at St. Margaret’s Chapel at Edinburgh. (See <a href="#fig_111">Fig. 111.</a>) The impost of -the vault arch is 6 feet 5 inches above what appears to have been the -floor, and the top, consequently, 10 feet 6 inches high. Outside the -vault was originally probably a solid stone roof, the apex of which was -about 14 feet</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_113" id="fig_113"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_144.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_144.png" width="401" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 113.</span>—Church at Orphir. Elevations of Apse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">from the floor. This height (supposing also that there was a step at the -chancel arch) would oblige the walls of the nave to be about 15 feet -high. The chancel has no buttresses. There is one window in the chancel, -in the east end, 2 feet 5 inches by 10½ inches clear, opening with jambs -splayed inward to 1 foot 8 inches wide. (<a href="#fig_113">Fig. 113.</a>) The outer edges are -chamfered, and the head semicircular. The impost is at the same level as -of vault. It has a groove for glass.</p> - -<p>A stone lying down appears to be part of a stoup.</p> - -<p>The exterior width of the chancel is half the exterior width of the -nave.</p> - -<p>On the south side of the nave is the trace of a building in the form of -a parallelogram, and other indications of buildings. Pope states that -before his visit in 1758, large foundations had been found in digging -earth for the Bow of Orphir, near the Gerth-house.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145">{145}</a></span></p> - -<p>The “four round churches” of Britain are—Cambridge, consecrated in -1101; Northampton, probably shortly before 1115; Maplestead, 1118; and -London, 1185.<a name="FNanchor_134_134" id="FNanchor_134_134"></a><a href="#Footnote_134_134" class="fnanchor">[134]</a> To these must be added the small Norman chapel in -Ludlow Castle, and we may safely add, as a sixth, Orphir. The church of -the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem was the type of all, and the Crusades -were the means of importing the form into Britain. In conjecturing the -date of Orphir, we may take into account that there was a palace of the -Earl Haco (son of Paul I.) at Orphir, according to Torfœus. He went to -the Holy Land and back, and died in 1103. The same writer describes the -palace of Earl Paul II. at Orphir, and states that a temple stood -opposite the wall of the palace. This earl died about 1136. If this -statement is to be believed, this must be the church mentioned, and -hence we get 1090-1137 as the limits within which this church was built.</p> - -<p>Earl Ronald founded the cathedral about 1138, and soon after went to the -Holy Land, accompanied, of course, by some of his high officers. He died -in 1158. We may fairly conclude that this round church had some -connection with one of these expeditions. As Earl Ronald needed all his -money for the cathedral, we cannot suppose that he had any hand in -building Orphir; but it is not improbable that some one of his wealthier -followers built it, and we may, from the dates of the other churches and -these facts, fix on 1090-1160 as limits of the date of its erection.</p> - -<p>In the Edinburgh Museum is a stone article, presented by D. Balfour, -Esq., found at this church. It is circular, 4¼ inches diameter, ¾ inch -thick, with a small square hole in centre. Its use is not evident. -Planned 1855.</p> - -<h2><a name="CHURCHES_IN_SHETLAND" id="CHURCHES_IN_SHETLAND"></a>CHURCHES IN SHETLAND.<br /><br /> -<small><span class="smcap">These are all Chancel Churches except Culbinsbrough, which is Cruciform.</span></small></h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="rt"><span class="smcap">Canons Ashby</span>, <i>Feb. 21, 1868</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>,—Last year you inserted in the <i>Orcadian</i> accounts by me of -some of the ruined churches in Orkney; I now send you accounts of -some of those in Shetland. Every year destroys some portion of -these ruins, and of the most complete in Shetland a considerable -portion has fallen since I made the plans of it in 1855. Though the -owners of these humble ruins do not value them, they have a value -with historians and antiquaries as examples of the ecclesiastical -architecture of the North in its least elaborate state, and -evidences of the religious condition of the islands in past times. -We find no St. Magnus and no Egilsey in Shetland; but still the -ruins which exist there are worthy of record.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146">{146}</a></span></p> - -<p>The number of churches which once existed in Shetland is -extraordinary. For instance, Unst, which is about 6 miles by 3 -miles, had at least twenty-four. Of most of the Shetland churches -every trace but a name or a tradition is gone; of others only a -heap of stones remains; of others a few fragments of wall enable us -to make approximate plans, and one only is tolerably complete. A -little labour with pick and spade would enable us, in many -instances, to determine more about them than is possible in their -present state. No people ought to be more impressed with religion -and the uncertainty of life than the Shetlanders. The effects of -the storms on sea and land, the terrible tideways among the -islands, and the barren nature and exposed position of much of the -land, make life a continued struggle for safety or for food. -Doubtless the tradition concerning nearly every church was true of -some—that they were built as thankofferings for escape from an -ocean grave. The churches of which I send an account are -Culbinsbrough, Bressay, Noss, West Sandwick, Yell, the Ness (Yell), -Uya, and Norwick, Haroldswick, Kirkaby, and Colvidale, all in Unst.</p> - -<p>I have to acknowledge the assistance of Mr. J. T. Irvine, formerly -of Yell, and of Mr. Sandison of Uya, and to thank many friends in -Shetland for hospitality and information.—I remain, your obedient -servant,</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">H. Dryden</span>.<br /> -</p></div> - -<h3>CHAPEL OF NOSS, <span class="smcap">Bressay</span>.</h3> - -<p>This ruin is near the sound which separates Noss from Bressay, on an -elevation of about 20 feet or 30 feet above the water. The dedication is -unknown.</p> - -<p>It consisted of a nave and chancel (<a href="#fig_114">Fig. 114</a>), of which only a fragment</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_114" id="fig_114"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_146.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_146.png" width="229" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 114.</span>—Chapel of Noss. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of the north wall of the chancel remains, about 4 feet or 5 feet high. -The nave was about 18 feet 6 inches by 14 feet, and the chancel about<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147">{147}</a></span> -12 feet east and west, by 10 feet north and south, as shown by the ridge -in the turf.</p> - -<p>Nothing certain can be stated of the door or chancel arch. Planned in -1852.</p> - -<h3>KIRKABY, <span class="smcap">Westing, Unst</span>.</h3> - -<p>This is in the west part of the island, in a walled churchyard, about 80 -feet north and south, and 60 feet east and west. By remains outside the -south-east part of the wall, it is evident that the church has been</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_115" id="fig_115"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_147.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_147.png" width="397" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 115.</span>—Kirkaby, Westing. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">built on the ruins of a brough or other ancient building. The dedication -is unknown. The church consisted of a nave (<a href="#fig_115">Fig. 115</a>) about 13 feet 9 -inches by 12 feet, and a chancel about 10 feet by 7 feet inside. The -walls were about 2 feet 9 inches thick. The chancel arch was equal in -width to the chancel. About 2 feet in height of the north wall of the -nave and of the north wall of the chancel remains, and traces of the -rest sufficient to approximate to the size. The entrance was probably in -the west end. The chancel inside equals in length the diagonal of the -square of the width.</p> - -<p>Plan by Mr. J. T. Irvine, 1863.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148">{148}</a></span></p> - -<h3>MEAL COLVIDALE, <span class="smcap">Unst</span>.</h3> - -<p>This is in the south-east part of the island, in a yard about 112 feet -east and west by 85 feet north and south. (<a href="#fig_116">Fig. 116.</a>) The dedication is -unknown. The nave is about 12 feet by 11 feet inside; the chancel 7 feet -9 inches by 7 feet 6 inches inside; and the walls 3 feet thick.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_116" id="fig_116"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_148.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_148.png" width="351" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 116.</span>—Meal Colvidale. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>About 2 feet in height of the north wall of the nave, and about the same -of the north wall of the chancel, and a fragment of the interior face of -the south wall of the chancel remain. Traces indicate the outline. The -nave is very short. The chancel arch was equal in width to the chancel. -The door was probably in the west end.</p> - -<p>Plan by Mr. J. T. Irvine in 1863.</p> - -<h3>ST. JOHN’S KIRK, <span class="smcap">Norwick, Unst</span>.</h3> - -<p>This is in the north-east part of the island, on the south side of a -bay. It is dedicated to St. John.</p> - -<p>It consists of nave (<a href="#fig_117">Fig. 117</a>), about 26 feet 6 inches and 13 feet 6 -inches inside, and chancel about 16 feet by 8 feet 8 inches. The walls -are 2 feet 4 inches thick. Only about 2 feet in height of the central -portion remains, that is about 12 feet 6 inches of the east part of the -nave, and about 10 feet of the west part of the chancel. The chancel -arch was equal in width to the chancel. The doorway was probably in the -west end.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149">{149}</a></span></p> - -<p>In the churchyard are several crosses and coped coffins of rude -construction. Some also at Sandwick, Unst. The nave equal in length</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_117" id="fig_117"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_149-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_149-a.png" width="264" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 117.</span>—St. John’s Kirk, Norwick. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">inside to double its width. Chancel equal inside to vesica piscis.</p> - -<p>Plan by Mr. J. T. Irvine in 1863.</p> - -<p>When Low visited it, it was nearly entire, and the altar remained.</p> - -<h3>CHURCH AT UYA.</h3> - -<p>The island of Uya, or Uyea, is not more than 2½ miles by 1 mile across. -It lies to the west of Unst. The ruin is near the east shore. The -dedication is unknown.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_118" id="fig_118"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_149-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_149-b.png" width="386" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 118.</span>—Church at Uya. Plan, South Elevation, &c.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150">{150}</a></span></p> - -<p>It consists of a nave and a building like a chancel to the west of the -nave (<a href="#fig_118">Fig. 118</a>), and lies true east and west.</p> - -<p>About 7 feet 6 inches high on an average of the side walls remain. The -material is the grey whinstone of the island, and the blocks from 4 feet -by 1 foot by 1 foot downwards.</p> - -<p>The nave is 16 feet 9 inches by 13 feet inside. The east wall of the -nave is 3 feet 6 inches thick, and the others now vary from 2 feet 10 -inches to 3 feet 1 inch. The side walls vary from 6 feet to 7 feet 6 -inches in height. No window remains, but probably there was one on the -south side.</p> - -<p>In the east end is an arch or doorway (<a href="#fig_119">Fig. 119</a>), 2 feet 2 inches wide, -with parallel unrebated jambs, and a semicircular head of one -rectangular</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_119" id="fig_119"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_150.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_150.png" width="427" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 119.</span>—Church at Uya. Elevations and Sections.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">order, with simple unmoulded projections for caps. The arch is formed by -overlapping the stones as in the cells of broughs. At the west end is an -opening 2 feet 6 inches wide, of similar character, except having a -ruder arch and no caps. Above this arch, 6 feet 4 inches in height of -the gable remains. Through this is the west apartment, resembling a -chancel, which is 10 feet east and west by 10 feet 2 inches north and -south, and has walls 2 feet 3 inches thick.</p> - -<p>There is an entrance in the north wall near west end, apparently not -original. The west gable is 9 feet 6 inches high. The eaves appear to -have been 8 feet above the ground. In the south wall of the nave, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151">{151}</a></span> -near the west end of it, is a rough stone stoup built into the wall. -(See <a href="#fig_118">Fig. 118.</a>)</p> - -<p>This little chapel is a puzzle, and has been mentioned before under -Enhallow, Orkney. Is the apartment in the west original, and if so, what -is it?</p> - -<p>It is in the same position as the adjunct at Enhallow. If original, it -probably was a sacristy. The writer, in taking the plans in 1855, did -not observe on the spot that this adjunct was on the west, which was not -noticed till the plans were laid down at a distance, and no opportunity -has occurred since of minutely inspecting the building. Muir (<i>Eccles. -Notes</i>) is incorrect in his plan.</p> - -<p>The east archway (entrance) appears original, yet too small for a -chancel arch. Supposing the adjunct on the west was original, and a -sacristy, and that the east arch is original, it must have been a -chancel arch, and there must have been a chancel, now gone.</p> - -<p>The position of the stoup seems to indicate that the arch from the nave -into the west adjunct is the original west entrance, and that the -adjunct is not original. There are no other church arches in the islands -formed as these are by overlapping stones.</p> - -<p>In the churchyard are some rude crosses, formed of slabs 2½ inches -thick. These were placed upright at the foot or head of graves. One is -about 2 feet high, the limbs of the cross being 7½ inches wide and -pattee. The limbs of another are 8½ inches wide.</p> - -<h3>KIRK OF NESS, <span class="smcap">North Yell</span>.</h3> - -<p>This church is at the north-east angle of Yell, near the base of the -ness bounding Cullavoe. The land is flat hereabouts, and near the sea -level.</p> - -<p>It is the most complete of the old churches of Shetland, and is said to -have been dedicated to Olave or Olaf, the great warrior saint of the -North. It is enclosed in a walled yard about 110 feet by 100 feet. (<a href="#fig_120">Fig. -120.</a>)</p> - -<p>It consists of nave and chancel, with bell-cot on the west gable, and -lies nearly true east and west. The roof is gone, but the church was -used down to 1750. (<a href="#fig_121">Fig. 121.</a>)</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_120" id="fig_120"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_151.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_151.png" width="160" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 120.</span>—Kirk of Ness. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The material is the grey stone of the district, placed at random, some -of the blocks being very large, and the interstices filled with small -stones.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152">{152}</a></span></p> - -<p>The nave is 20 feet 5 inches by 14 feet 10 inches inside. (<a href="#fig_122">Fig. 122.</a>) -The west end is 3 feet 6 inches or 3 feet 8 inches thick; the north and -south walls about 3 feet 3 inches. The side walls are 11 feet 10 inches -or 12 feet high from the floor. In the west end is a square-headed -doorway,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_121" id="fig_121"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_152-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_152-a.png" width="401" height="237" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 121.</span>—Kirk of Ness. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>2 feet 7 inches wide and 5 feet 4 inches high externally, with -rectangular jambs rebated for a door. (<a href="#fig_123">Fig. 123.</a>) The interior width is -3 feet 5 inches. The internal head is also square. Holes for the -insertion of a wooden bar for securing the door remain in the north and -south jambs. In the south wall, and</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_122" id="fig_122"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_152-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_152-b.png" width="224" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 122.</span>—Kirk of Ness. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">close to the west end of it, is another square-headed doorway, -externally 1 foot 9 inches wide, and 5 feet 9 inches high, with internal -head square as of west doorway, and bar-holes as before. (<a href="#fig_124">Fig. 124.</a>) In -the north wall is a square-headed window, of which the west side and the -top are gone, owing to the west portion of the north wall having fallen -down. This window is nearer the west than the east angle of the nave. In -the south wall (<a href="#fig_125">Fig. 125</a>) is a square-headed window, 3 feet by 1 foot 1 -inch externally, splayed inwards to 3 feet 4 inches by 2 feet 2 inches. -The external angles of the jambs are not chamfered, nor are there -grooves or rebates<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153">{153}</a></span> for glass. (See account of Egilsey.) The top of the -sill is 7 inches above the level of the impost of the chancel arch. This -window is nearer the east than the west angle of the nave, and its -position shows that the south door is original. At 9 feet above the top -of the west</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_123" id="fig_123"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_153.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_153.png" width="301" height="399" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 123.</span>—Kirk of Ness. East and West Walls and Chancel -Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">doorway (inside) is a square-headed window (see <a href="#fig_123">Fig. 123.</a>), 3 feet by 1 -foot 1 inch externally, splayed inward to 3 feet 2 inches by 2 feet 3 -inches. At 2 feet 2 inches above this (outside) is another opening, 2 -feet 4 inches wide, for a bell. The west face of the bell-cot is 7 feet -10 inches wide. The top is gone, but about 2 feet 3 inches in height of -the jambs remain. The jambs are parallel both ways, and about 1 foot 6 -inches thick from east to west. The ridge of the roof was about 3 feet -higher than the bottom of the opening for the bell, and whether this -opening<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154">{154}</a></span> originally came through to the inside of the church is -doubtful. Possibly this bell-cot is not original. The ridge of the roof -was about 24 feet 7 inches above the floor under the chancel arch.</p> - -<p>The chancel is 13 feet by 11 feet 3 inches inside. The north and south -walls are 3 feet 2 inches, and the east one 3 feet 6 inches thick. The -chancel arch (<a href="#fig_123">Figs. 123</a> and <a href="#fig_126">126</a>) has no projecting jambs, but springs -from</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_124" id="fig_124"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_154.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_154.png" width="265" height="339" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 124.</span>—Kirk of Ness. North and South Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the chancel walls at 5 feet 7 inches above the floor, and the feet of -the arch are set 3 inches back on the jambs at the impost, as at Wyre -and Linton in Orkney. (See account of church on Brough of Birsay.) The -spring is 3 inches higher on the south than on the north. There is no -cap. The arch is semicircular, and consists of one rectangular order 3 -feet thick. The stones of the arch average 1 foot 6 inches in length, -but are thin. The top of the gable is 19 feet above the impost. The -abutments of this arch were not sufficient, and the nave and chancel -walls have spread, and a considerable fissure has taken place at the -crown of the arch. In the north wall, at the east corner, is a -square-headed window, 2 feet by 1 foot externally, splayed inward to 2 -feet 5 inches by 2 feet. In the south<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155">{155}</a></span> wall, exactly opposite this -window, is a similar one, 1 foot 7 inches by 1 foot. (See Figs. <a href="#fig_124">124</a> and -<a href="#fig_125">125</a>.) The top of the external opening of this window is 7 inches below -the south impost of the chancel arch. The top of the window on the north -is 3 inches lower than on the south—the same difference as in the two -springs of the chancel arch. In the west angle of the nave and chancel -is a similar window, 1 foot 9 inches</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_125" id="fig_125"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_155.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_155.png" height="337" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 125.</span>—Kirk of Ness.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">by 1 foot externally, and splayed as the others. This is at a trifle -higher level than the last mentioned window.</p> - -<p>Between these two windows on the south is a sedile (see <a href="#fig_125">Fig. 125.</a>), 4 -feet 7 inches high by 2 feet 1 inch wide, and 1 foot 8 inches deep, with -a segmental head. The bottom is 1 foot 8 inches above the floor. It is -evident that there was no step in the chancel, and no step at the altar.</p> - -<p>On the north side, a little west of the window, is a square-headed -recess (see <a href="#fig_125">Fig. 125.</a>), 3 feet 4½ inches by 2 feet, and 1 foot 11 inches -recessed—probably an ambry, possibly an eastern sepulchre.</p> - -<p>In the east gable, at 8 feet 9 inches above the level of the impost of -the chancel arch, is a window about 1 foot 3 inches by 11 inches, -splayed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156">{156}</a></span> inward. The top of the gable is now 16 feet 9 inches above the -level of the impost of chancel arch, but was originally a little -higher—probably about 23 feet—above the level of the floor at the -chancel arch.</p> - -<p>What is the date of this church? The chancel is larger than of any of -the churches described, and has a sedile and, perhaps, Easter sepulchre. -The chancel arch resembles Egilsey, but is not part of a vault. It has</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_126" id="fig_126"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_156.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_156.png" height="378" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 126.</span>—Kirk of Ness. View of Chancel Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the peculiarity at the impost. The doors and windows are flat-headed. -The former have rebates, which is not the primitive form, though Egilsey -has them—the latter have the early form of jambs. Taking all the -points, it may be assigned with probability to the fourteenth century.</p> - -<p>The interior length of the nave is equal to the diagonal of the square -of the width. The length of the chancel is that of an equilateral -triangle on the east end of the nave. The height of chancel walls is -equal to the width of the chancel.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157">{157}</a></span></p> - -<p>According to Mr. Irvine there was, a few years ago, a rude cross -gravestone here, like those at Uya.</p> - -<p>A bell, which in 1856 was lying on the shore at Cullyavoe, once hung at -this church. It is said to have been obtained from a wrecked ship, but -is evidently a church bell. It has an inscription in Dutch, and the date -1694. The late Mr. Irvine of Midbrigg had a small bell, said to have -come from this church. It had no inscription.</p> - -<p>Since 1856 the chancel arch and gable over it have fallen.</p> - -<p>The church was surrounded with an enclosing wall.</p> - -<h3>CHURCH AT CULBINSBROUGH, <span class="smcap">Bressay</span>.</h3> - -<p>This ruin is on the north-east coast of Bressay, on a small low -promontory. It is enclosed in a “garth” or churchyard, the wall of which -is ruinous, and which appears not to have been used for many years.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_127" id="fig_127"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_157.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_157.png" height="255" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 127.</span>—Church at Culbinsbrough. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The dedication is not known. It originally consisted of a nave, north -and south transepts, and chancel, and lies about west by north and east -by south. (<a href="#fig_127">Fig. 127.</a>) There remain now only the lower portion of the -north transept, lower portions of the chancel, and a small fragment of -the east wall of the south transept. It is built of the grey stone of -the locality in rude courses of moderate-sized stones. On the north side -of the nave, and at the west end, is a modern wall about 3 feet high, -but as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158">{158}</a></span> this is on the foundation of the original north wall, it is -probable that it marks the extent westward of the old nave. Assuming -this, the nave was 21 feet 6 inches by 10 feet inside. The walls were -probably 2 feet 3 inches thick. The position of the doorway is not -evident, but probably was in the west end. Traces of the south wall -remain. The north transept is 12 feet north and south by 8 feet 6 inches -east and west inside. The north wall is 2 feet 3 inches thick, and the -east and west walls 2 feet thick. The north end is 9 feet high, and -retains the window, which is square-headed (<a href="#fig_128">Fig. 128</a>), 1 foot 9 inches -high, and 1 foot 3 inches</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_128" id="fig_128"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_158.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_158.png" width="287" height="214" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 128.</span>—Church at Culbinsbrough. East and North -Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">wide outside. It is slightly splayed inwards. The sill is 5 feet above -the present ground, but the original level of the floor has not been -ascertained.</p> - -<p>The height of the eaves and of the original apex of gable cannot be -ascertained, but it is probable that the eaves of the whole church were -not more than about 7 feet high, and the ridges of roofs about 12 feet -high.</p> - -<p>The chancel is 6 feet east and west and 10 feet north and south inside. -The walls 2 feet 7 inches to 3 feet thick. About 5 feet 6 inches in -height of the east gable remains. The sill of the east window appears to -have been 4 feet 7 inches above the ground outside—about the same level -as the window in the north transept. The width and height of the east -window cannot be ascertained as the gable is gone. Probably there were -no arches at the cross. The proportion on which it was formed is not -evident; but these proportions may be observed in it. The interior of -the chancel is in the proportion of the vesica piscis. The length of the -north transept is twice that of the chancel, and half that of the nave.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159">{159}</a></span> -The interior has been used as a burial-place since the disuse of the -church, and two altar tombs remain in the nave. One is without -inscription, but the other is of a Dutch captain who died in 1636. The -inscription is in Dutch. This is the only cross church in Orkney or -Shetland of which any remains exist, and on that account is of -importance. In this churchyard was found, about 1850, a very interesting -tombstone, which has been presented to the Museum of the Society of -Antiquaries of Scotland by the Rev. Dr. Hamilton of Bressay. This stone -stood erect. It is 4 feet high, 1 foot 4½ inches wide at top, and 11 -inches wide at bottom, and 1¾ inch thick. Both faces are ornamented with -carving in low relief. On one face the upper portion contains a square -of interlaced work, within which is a circle containing an interlaced -cross. Below are two dogs, head to head, with their mouths open, and -tails curled over their backs. Below them are two bishops, face to face, -with low mitres, and holding pastoral staves. They resemble the bishops -of the Norse chessmen. On the other face, in the upper part, is a circle -of interlaced work. In the spandrils above it are two nondescript -animals, with their mouths open, apparently eating a man—one the feet, -the other the head. Below the circle are two bishops as on the other -face, between them a man on horseback. Below there is a nondescript -four-legged animal with its tail over its back—possibly a lion or dog. -Other small spaces are filled with interlaced work. On the two edges is -an inscription in Ogham characters, which has been the source of much -discussion; but the stone is somewhat chipped, and the decipherers have -not had a good chance. Amongst many translations is this—on one edge, -“The cross of Natdods daughter here;” on the other edge, “Benres of the -sons of the Druid here.” Probably this stone is of the ninth or -beginning of the tenth century.</p> - -<h3>GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS.</h3> - -<p>There is no cross church in Orkney, and only one in Shetland.</p> - -<p>In Ireland there is no circular, octagon, or cross church, except, of -course, the cathedrals and some monastic churches.</p> - -<p>There is no aisle in Orkney or Shetland.</p> - -<p>There are no plinths or basements to any of these churches.</p> - -<p>The doors are chiefly in the west ends. Both square and round heads -occur. Several have no rebates. (See Birsay.) St. Ola, Deerness, and -perhaps Uya have no chancels, but all the rest have decided chancels. -There is no instance of a chancel door. Orphir, Egilsey, The Ness, -Culbinsbrough, Norwick, Kirkaby, and Colvidale have or had chancel -arches equal in width to the chancels. In England this fashion rarely -occurs; where it does it is late. It is constructively weak.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160">{160}</a></span></p> - -<p>Enhallow has a chancel arch with projecting jambs of about the English -proportion.</p> - -<p>Birsay, Wyre, Linton, perhaps Uya, and probably Noss have or had very -narrow chancel arches.</p> - -<p>In our early churches the chancels were small in comparison with the -naves, and in cathedrals the ritual choir was under the cross or west of -it.</p> - -<p>They elongated the choirs in the thirteenth century, and soon placed the -ritual choir east of the cross.</p> - -<p>Orphir and Egilsey had windows with circular heads. Birsay, Wyre, -Enhallow, and Culbinsbrough had at least some windows with flat heads. -The Ness has all flat. No instance remains of a double light, or of a -transom, or of a triangular head, which is not unfrequent in Ireland.</p> - -<p>At Egilsey, Enhallow, and the Ness are no grooves for glass or rebates, -or external chamfers. At Orphir and Birsay are grooves and chamfers. -(See account of Egilsey.) Of the six churches which retain the east -ends—St. Ola, Orphir, Deerness, Wyre, Egilsey, and the Ness—four have -no east window, except that in the latter there is a small opening high -up in the east gable. In the early Irish churches it is very unusual not -to have an east window. Probably no apse was without an east window.</p> - -<p>As far as can be made out at present, there was no step to the chancel -and no platform for the altar, except the inserted step and altar at -Birsay. In some the chancel windows are singularly low, as at Wyre and -Egilsey. No piscina remains, and only one sedile, but several ambries.</p> - -<p>There are only four cases where we can judge of the pitch of the roofs. -The Ness had a roof including about 85 degrees, Egilsey about 88 -degrees, Enhallow the same, and Wyre about 95 degrees. Probably all had -rude stepped coping on the gables.</p> - -<h3>MONUMENTS.</h3> - -<p>The grave stones found in connection with these churches are of four -kinds.</p> - -<p>1. Keel-shaped slabs placed horizontally on graves, as at Sandwick in -Unst, sketched by Mr. Irvine.</p> - -<p>2. Upright stones nearly rectangular, with crosses engraved on them, as -at Sandwick, etched by Mr. Irvine, and at Norwick and some other places. -This class includes the elaborate monument from Culbinsbrough.</p> - -<p>3. The same shaped stones, without any ornamentation, found at many of -the old burial-grounds.</p> - -<p>4. Upright stones cut into the form of crosses, as at Uya.</p> - -<p>Mr. Irvine has sent the following information:—“I believe from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161">{161}</a></span> -earliest times in Scotland the foot-stone of the grave was the chief -stone, and not as now the head-stone, and that the east face of the -foot-stone was the principal face to be attended to, from the idea that -the dead rose at the resurrection to an upright position facing east. -Compare the stone with the ancient incised markings from St. Peter’s -Church, Orkney, now in the Edinburgh Museum, with the one I have etched -from Sandwick, Unst, and I believe it will be seen that the keel stone -existed to both. Therefore, I believe that the interment belonging to -many of the standing stones will be found on the west side and not on -the east.” The coffins were often formed of six or more slabs of stone.</p> - -<h3>PROPORTIONS.</h3> - -<p>The designs for churches in the ages of architecture were not made at -random. Doubtless there existed certain rules of proportion; but -doubtless they varied with times, places, and persons.</p> - -<p>Various attempts have been made in modern times to discover these rules, -and in some instances with apparent success. It unfortunately happens -that we have not often an intact ground plan, and if the original plan -was simple, the additions render it complex. In many cases these -additions were made without any regard to the proportion of the -original. It appears probable that these proportions were geometric -rather than arithmetical—that is to say, made by simple operations of -the compasses and rulers, rather than by any proportions of numbers. The -small churches of the North are valuable from not having been altered by -additions.</p> - -<p>Though in the foregoing notes the proportions on which the churches were -built may not have been ascertained in all cases, yet in some the -coincidences are too remarkable to be chance. Although, no doubt, a -system of proportions was extended to the elevations and certain -details, yet as to most of these in the churches here enumerated we are -in ignorance, because most of the superstructure is gone. It appears -that there were, in fact, only two figures on which the proportions were -founded—a circle, a square, and an equilateral triangle. For most -purposes of proportion the circle and square are identical. The vesica -piscis is two equilateral triangles on opposite sides of a common base, -and hence equal in proportion to the half of one such triangle.</p> - -<p>There is, however, one proportion in which a square is not equivalent to -a circle—the diagonal of the square the proportion of which to the side -is nearly as 10 to 7. The height or length of an equilateral triangle is -to half its base nearly as 7 to 4.</p> - -<p>All these proportions are somewhat flexible, inasmuch as they may -include the side walls and exclude the end walls, or the reverse; or -they may include both, or they may exclude both; or they may be applied -in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162">{162}</a></span> one way to the nave, and in another to the chancel, and in another -to the tower. But the proportion must not be deemed as ascertained -unless the figure really fits within 2 or 3 inches.</p> - -<h3>DATES.</h3> - -<p>As to the dates of these buildings we have but little to guide us. Only -fragments of the buildings are left, and those of the plainest -description.</p> - -<p>Scotch architecture has some mystifying peculiarities. Dates have been -suggested from architectural and historical evidence for Orphir, Birsay, -and Egilsey. Orphir, 1090-1160; Birsay, 1100; Egilsey, 1000. Wyre has -been assigned to the twelfth or thirteenth, the Ness to the fourteenth, -and St. Ola to the sixteenth century.</p> - -<p>It may be fairly observed that there must have been churches erected in -the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Where are the remains of them? -Possibly some of the ruins described are of those centuries.</p> - -<p>It does not appear impossible that from evidence yet to be collected, a -nearer approximation to the dates of these buildings may be got.</p> - -<hr style="width: 5%;" /> - -<p>As a supplement to the foregoing drawings and descriptions of the ruined -churches of Orkney and Shetland by Sir Henry Dryden, we add an account, -also kindly supplied by Sir Henry, of the chapel at Lybster, in -Caithness, which has a strong affinity to the churches of the Orkneys, -and drawings and description of the chapel on the island of Inch -Kenneth, lying on the south-west of Mull.</p> - -<h3>CHAPEL AT LYBSTER, <span class="smcap">Parish of Reay, Caithness</span>.</h3> - -<p>This is not the Lybster on the east coast.</p> - -<p>This chapel (<a href="#fig_129">Fig. 129</a>) was stated, in 1726, to be dedicated to St. -Peter. It is described and illustrated by Muir in his <i>Ecclesiastical -Sketch of Caithness and Orkney</i>, 1861. He states that it was dedicated -to St. Mary.<a name="FNanchor_135_135" id="FNanchor_135_135"></a><a href="#Footnote_135_135" class="fnanchor">[135]</a></p> - -<p>It consists of nave and chancel, both unroofed. (<a href="#fig_130">Fig. 130.</a>) Muir, in his -plan, places the chancel to the north of the nave, but it is in the -usual position.</p> - -<p>The nave is 17 feet 10 inches east and west, by 10 feet 11 inches north -and south inside. The north wall of the nave is 3 degrees south of true -west and north of true east, supposing the variation to be 24 degrees -west of north. The walls of the west end and the east end of the nave -are 4 feet 2 inches thick; the north and south walls of the nave are 3 -feet 11 inches thick. The walls are of the whinstone of the district, in -irregular courses, from 3 to 10 inches deep, and “spawled”—that is, -made into courses by smaller stones. The north wall of the nave is 8 -feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163">{163}</a></span> high above the present ground level, and is apparently about its -original height. The south wall is partly broken. The west wall is 11 -feet 8</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_129" id="fig_129"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_163-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_163-a.png" width="398" height="161" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 129.</span>—Chapel at Lybster. View from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_130" id="fig_130"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_163-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_163-b.png" width="305" height="369" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 130.</span>—Chapel at Lybster. Plan, South Elevation and -Section.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164">{164}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">inches, and the east wall 15 feet 2 inches above the present ground. The -latter gable was about 1 foot 6 inches higher than at present, and the -west gable, of course, level with it. I did not ascertain the original -level of the floor, but it must have been at least a foot below the -present ground, so that the total height of the gables was about 16 feet -2 inches.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_131" id="fig_131"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_164.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_164.png" height="400" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 131.</span>—Chapel at Lybster. West End, Doorway, and -Chancel Entrance.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the west end (<a href="#fig_131">Fig. 131</a>) is an entrance 2 feet 3 inches wide at bottom -and 1 foot 9 inches at top. The head is horizontal; the jambs are -parallel, and there is no sign of hinges for a door. The jambs are now 3 -feet 11 inches high. The soffit of the head is flush between the outside -and the inside. Another entrance has been made in the south wall near -the west end, but the wall is broken here, and the form of the head is -uncertain. There is now no trace of a window, but one may have existed -in the place of this doorway.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165">{165}</a></span></p> - -<p>The entrance to the chancel is 2 feet 9 inches wide at the bottom and 2 -feet 1 inch at the head, which is flat, like the west entrance. The -chancel is 11 feet 3 inches east and west, by 10 feet 9 inches north and -south inside. The walls are 2 feet 4½ inches on the north and south and -2 feet 7 inches on the east. The walls are about 1 foot lower than the -north wall of the nave. This chancel has been rebuilt, probably on the -old foundation, and is used as a family burying-place.</p> - -<p>There is no trace of an entrance or a window, but I think the wall has -been rebuilt since the disuse of the chapel, so that the original -chancel may have had a window. There is no stoup or ambry.</p> - -<p>Planned 1871.</p> - -<h3>CHAPEL, EFFIGY, AND CROSS ON INCH KENNETH, <span class="smcap">Mull, Argyleshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Inch Kenneth is about half a mile across at the mouth of Loch na Keal, -on the west side of Mull.</p> - -<p>The chapel (<a href="#fig_132">Fig. 132</a>) adjoins the burial-ground, which is on the -south-east part of the island, and at 50 or 60 feet above the water.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_132" id="fig_132"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_165.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_165.png" width="381" height="206" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 132.</span>—Chapel on Inch Kenneth. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The ground falls sharply from the north-east to the south-west. The -burial-ground is on the west of the chapel, and on higher ground. There -is an enclosed burial-place adjoining the south side of the chapel for -the Macleans of Brolas.</p> - -<p>The chapel (<a href="#fig_133">Fig. 133</a>) is a plain parallelogram, 40 feet 9 inches east -and west by 19 feet 8 inches north and south inside. It is deflected 10<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166">{166}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_133" id="fig_133"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_166-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_166-a.png" width="343" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 133.</span>—Chapel on Inch Kenneth. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_134" id="fig_134"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_166-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_166-b.png" height="358" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 134.</span>—Chapel on Inch Kenneth. Section and North -Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167">{167}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">degrees 30 minutes to the north of true east, assuming the magnetic -meridian to be 21 degrees west of true north.</p> - -<p>It is of a light-coloured hard sandstone. It has long been unroofed, and -is mutilated in other parts.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_135" id="fig_135"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_167.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_167.png" height="358" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 135.</span>—Chapel on Inch Kenneth. Details of Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The doorway (<a href="#fig_134">Fig. 134</a>) is in the north wall, near the west end, on the -side sheltered by the hill; but all the freestone has been taken out, -except two stones of the inner order of the east jamb.</p> - -<p>The jambs (<a href="#fig_135">Fig. 135</a>) and arch were of two orders. Judging by the remains -of wall it had no hood and no cap. I did not make out whether it had -been a pointed or a half-circular arch, as there is only a small portion -of the masonry fitting the back of the outer order above the west impost -remaining to judge by. Probably pointed.</p> - -<p>The sill of the doorway is covered by rubbish, and the whole of the -interior is covered to about 2 feet depth. I had not opportunity for -excavation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168">{168}</a></span></p> - -<p>The east end (<a href="#fig_136">Fig. 136</a>) remains to 15 feet high, a little above the -eaves. The side walls (<a href="#fig_137">Fig. 137</a>) are about 12 feet high, and the west -wall remains to a little way up the gable.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_136" id="fig_136"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_168-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_168-a.png" height="352" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 136.</span>—Chapel on Inch Kenneth. East End—Exterior and -Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The facing of the south wall and the south-west angle have disappeared. -The weakness of foundation and the position of the east end on a steep -slope caused, at some period, the east end to lean outwards</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_137" id="fig_137"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_168-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_168-b.png" width="405" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 137.</span>—Chapel on Inch Kenneth. South Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169">{169}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">considerably; and to obviate further decay, large clasping buttresses -(see <a href="#fig_132">Fig. 132.</a>) were made at north-east and south-east angles, at some -period much after the building of the chapel, but long ago.</p> - -<p>In the east end are two plain lancets (<a href="#fig_138">Fig. 138</a>), 4 feet 8 inches high -and 8¾ inches wide, with wide splays to the inside.</p> - -<p>There is no groove for glass, and so it probably was fixed in a wooden -frame.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_138" id="fig_138"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_169.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_169.png" height="346" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 138.</span>—Chapel on Inch Kenneth. East Windows.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>On the north is, near the east end, a square-headed light (Figs. 139, -140), 4 feet 8 inches by 1 foot. It has no glass groove. The internal -head is not now arched, but probably was so at first.</p> - -<p>On the south, and nearly opposite the last, is a light, 4 feet 8 inches -by 9 inches, with a square head and internal arch. (See <a href="#fig_140">Fig. 140.</a>)</p> - -<p>Between this and the east wall is a projecting stone with hollow in it, -but no drain. (See <a href="#fig_139">Fig. 139.</a>) It is difficult to assign a date to this, -but I think, probably, it is of fourteenth or fifteenth century.</p> - -<p>In the centre of the chapel is a flat tombstone, with floriated -decoration. In the burial-ground is a cross of slate, now prostrate. It -appears of very late date, but has traditional form and ornaments.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170">{170}</a></span></p> - -<p>In the burial-place on the south side of chapel is a floriated tombstone -(<a href="#fig_141">Fig. 141</a>), also an effigy in relief (<a href="#fig_142">Fig. 142</a>). This is 6 feet 7½ -inches long from the top of the cap to the heels. The figure is in -relief of about 4 inches average, flattened on the upper surface, like -many others in that</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_139" id="fig_139"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_170-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_170-a.png" width="415" height="301" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 139.</span>—Chapel on Inch Kenneth. North and South -Windows—Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_140" id="fig_140"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_170-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_170-b.png" width="411" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 140.</span>—Chapel on Inch Kenneth. South-East and North -Windows—Exterior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171">{171}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">district, and is in the same stone as the slab, as usual. The slab is 7 -feet 2¼ inches by 2 feet 8 inches, of hard freestone. He has no metal -armour except his skull-cap or morion, which has a raised longitudinal -rib and a narrow brim. The head rests on a simple pillow of 3 inches -relief. He wears a quilted dress reaching to the knees, and over that, -apparently a</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_141" id="fig_141"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_171.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_171.png" height="410" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 141.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">surcoat. The face has no protection; the hair is long and curly, falling -over the shoulders; he has no beard and no moustache. Below the chin -falls the broad end of a tie (?) of some kind. The right arm, in a -quilted sleeve, is extended by the side, and in the hand is a cannon (?) -ball. Lying over the waist is a circular target, 1 foot in diameter and -2 inches thick, and on this is a shield (presumably to receive the arms -either in sculpture or paint) of 10½ inches width and 1¼ inch -thickness.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172">{172}</a></span></p> - -<p>The legs are in close-fitting hose, or perhaps bare, and the junction of -the boots is not shown. The feet rest against a lion or dog. He has a -waist-belt, from which depends a long, broad, straight sword, of equal -width to the end. The upper part of the scabbard and the guard are</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_142" id="fig_142"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_172.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_172.png" width="401" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 142.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">concealed by the target. The left arm holds the target, and is therefore -partly concealed by it. Dependent from the belt at the right hip is the -dirk. On each side of the head is a figure 10¼ inches high, much worn, -in a loose cloak, and in the attitude of prayer. These may represent -children or professional mourners.</p> - -<p>It is possible that the shield which is in relief on the target is to -represent a metal or a wooden plate fastened to the target.</p> - -<p>It is likely that the cannon ball is a memorial of some incident.</p> - -<hr style="width: 15%;" /> - -<p>Sir Henry Dryden, in reading over the foregoing description of the -Orkney and Shetland churches after they were arranged in type, has -requested the following note to be inserted:—</p> - -<h3><i>Note by Sir Henry Dryden.</i></h3> - -<p>All the plans and sections are much reduced from the originals; -therefore, the <i>statements</i> of the scales are not true, but the scales -given are correct, having been reduced with the plans.</p> - -<p>Of the original drawings, some general plans are to the scale of ½ an -inch to 40 feet, and ½ an inch to 10 feet. All the chapels are to the -scale of ⅜ of an inch to 2 feet, doors and windows ⅜ to 6 inches, and -mouldings ⅜ to 3 inches.</p> - -<p>The elevations in the originals are tinted with sepia, and have no<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173">{173}</a></span> -masonry indicated. The artist who has prepared these reductions has -indicated the masonry, but has made it much too regular, both in courses -and size of stones.</p> - -<p>The drawing here shown is a more accurate representation of the general -style of the masonry.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_173-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_173-a.png" width="195" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p>The degrees and minutes prefixed to arrows are the readings of a -prismatic compass, with 360 degrees at south, 90 degrees at west, and so -on. All were taken west to east and east to west.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_173-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_173-b.png" height="250" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174">{174}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="TRANSITION_FROM_CELTIC_TO_NORMAN_ARCHITECTURE" id="TRANSITION_FROM_CELTIC_TO_NORMAN_ARCHITECTURE"></a>TRANSITION FROM CELTIC TO NORMAN ARCHITECTURE.</h2> - -<p>Having in the preceding chapters dealt with the churches in Scotland -which may be regarded as of Celtic descent, we now turn to those in -which the Roman or Norman influence begins to make itself apparent.</p> - -<p>A few structures exist in Scotland in which both the Celtic and Norman -influences can be traced, and which are interesting as examples of the -transition from the one style to the other. We have noted in the -foregoing descriptions the gradual introduction in the later Celtic -churches of features characteristic of Norman work, such as round arched -openings and upright jambs, not to mention the pointed and more advanced -details of later examples. But the gradual approach of Norman -architecture, and its encroachment on the Celtic forms, is more -particularly noticeable in some of the early towers in the East of -Scotland. In that part of the country of which the Frith of Tay forms -the centre, and which was then the central region of Pictavia, there -exists a series of early ecclesiastical towers, eight in number. Six of -these towers are situated south of the Tay—three of them being on the -south side of the Ochil Hills, and three on the north side. Those on the -south side are the tower of St. Regulus at St. Andrews and the towers at -Markinch and Dunblane; while the towers on the north side of the Ochils -are at Abernethy, Muthill, and Dunning. The towers on the north side of -the Tay are those at Brechin and Restennet. These places are all known -to have been the sites of Culdee establishments, which were ultimately -absorbed into the Roman system.</p> - -<p>The towers of Abernethy and Brechin are round towers, similar in design -to the round towers of Ireland.<a name="FNanchor_136_136" id="FNanchor_136_136"></a><a href="#Footnote_136_136" class="fnanchor">[136]</a> These two towers contain many -features which indicate their Irish derivation, while one of them—that -at Abernethy—shows the impress of the Norman influence in its details.</p> - -<p>The other towers above mentioned (which are described under their -respective heads) are all square in plan; but that of Restennet shows -considerable affinity with Celtic modes of construction. The Church of -St. Regulus probably marks the next step in the Norman advance, while -the remaining towers, although simple in details, are quite distinctly -Norman in their features.</p> - -<p>The Round Tower of Brechin is the one which approaches most<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175">{175}</a></span> nearly to -the Celtic or Irish forms. Its masonry is built with large stones, but -they are not laid in regular courses. The doorway is some feet above the -ground, and is ornamented with details quite Irish in character. This -tower will be more fully described under the head of Brechin Cathedral.</p> - -<h3>ABERNETHY ROUND TOWER, <span class="smcap">Perthshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This remarkable edifice stands on the south-west side of the Churchyard -of Abernethy, a small town situated at some distance from the south side -of the Tay, and about three miles west from Newburgh. There can be no -doubt that this peculiar form of round tower owes its existence to the -presence of the Irish clergy, who returned to Scotland in the ninth -century.<a name="FNanchor_137_137" id="FNanchor_137_137"></a><a href="#Footnote_137_137" class="fnanchor">[137]</a> Abernethy was distinguished as an ecclesiastical site at a -very early date, a church having been founded here in the sixth century -by King Gastnaid<a name="FNanchor_138_138" id="FNanchor_138_138"></a><a href="#Footnote_138_138" class="fnanchor">[138]</a> in honour of St. Bridget. Abernethy was then, and -for a long period thereafter, the chief seat of the Government of -Pictland. In the ninth century, Constantin, the son of Kenneth M‘Alpine, -removed the see of the Scottish Bishopric from Dunkeld to Abernethy, -where it remained till transferred by Kenneth III., 966-970, to St. -Andrews.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_143" id="fig_143"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_175.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_175.png" width="291" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 143.</span>—Abernethy Tower. Plans.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The monastery at Abernethy was in the hands of a Culdee establishment in -the eleventh century, but about 1200 the church was granted by William -the Lion to his favourite Abbey of Arbroath, and the Abbey was -secularised. In 1272, the monastery was revived as a Priory of Canons -regular of St. Augustine.</p> - -<p>The once important place of Abernethy has now dwindled into a small -quiet country town, of which the ancient Round Tower is the only -important feature.</p> - -<p>The tower stands partly within the churchyard and partly without it, on -the east side of the adjoining roadway, and the level of the ground<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176">{176}</a></span> on -the side next the latter is two or three feet deeper than that of the -churchyard. The doorway (<a href="#fig_143">Fig. 143</a>) is situated on the north side of the -tower and within the burial-ground. It stands (<a href="#fig_144">Fig. 144</a>) about 2 feet 6 -inches above the ground, and has had in recent times a few steps built -in front of it. The doorway has a plain fillet, 6 inches broad and -projecting 2 inches, wrought on the jambs and round the circular arched -head. It is 7 feet 8 inches from the sill to the crown of the arch. The -jambs incline inwards, the opening being 2 feet 8 inches at the base, -and 2 feet 4 inches at the spring of the arch. The round head is -hollowed out of a single stone, and the thickness of the wall behind it -is arched with several voussoirs. The jambs are each in two stones, -which extend through the thickness of the wall. The wall is 3 feet 6 -inches thick at the doorway, and the internal diameter of the tower at -that level is 8 feet 2 inches.</p> - -<p>The structure is over 72 feet in height, and is divided in the interior -into six stories in the height by projecting string courses, 10 inches -by 8 inches, bevelled on the lower side, which carried the joists. There -was no staircase, access from floor to floor being by means of ladders. -The second, third, and fourth stories are lighted by means of small -round-headed and angle-headed windows, with inclined jambs.</p> - -<p>The top story has four large windows facing the cardinal points. These -windows are the most remarkable features of the edifice.</p> - -<p>The openings have inclined jambs, being 1 foot 8 inches at base and 1 -foot 5 inches at top, and the height from the sill to the springing is 4 -feet 9 inches. Each window has two orders on the exterior—a plain inner -order and an outer order, containing a shaft wrought on the jamb angle. -The inner order has plain square-edged jambs and round arch. The outer -order has also a square-edged round arch, springing from the caps of the -shafts. This arch, however, is not concentric with the inner arch, but -is carried considerably above it, leaving a flat space or shield between -the arches. The caps and bases of the shafts are now much decayed, but -they have a distinctly Norman character.</p> - -<p>Above the highest string course the wall rises about two feet, so as to -form a parapet. The diameter within this wall is 8 feet 8 inches, and -the wall is about 2 feet 6 inches thick. The top of the wall is covered -with broad stones, each the full width, which have an ogee moulding -wrought on the outer edge.</p> - -<p>The masonry of the tower is constructed in regular courses of ashlar -work, carefully wrought to the circle. The lower twelve courses are of a -hard grey freestone, and the portion above consists of a yellowish -freestone of similar workmanship, which is softer, and has decayed -considerably both on the exterior and interior. This difference in the -materials of the lower and upper portions has led to the belief that the -upper part has been rebuilt at a later date than the lower part.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177">{177}</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178">{178}</a></span> </p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_144" id="fig_144"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_177.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_177.png" width="371" height="645" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 144.</span>—Abernethy Tower. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The tower is slightly less in diameter at the top than at the bottom, -but it tapers so little that the difference is scarcely observable.</p> - -<p>In this tower we find features which belong both to the Celtic and -Norman styles of building. The circular form of the tower and the -disposition of its parts, the door raised some feet above the ground, -the small windows in the lower stories, the four large windows in the -top story, and the inclining jambs of door and windows, all point to the -Irish origin of the design; while the distinctly Norman character of the -details of the four upper windows, and the regular coursing and dressing -of the masonry, show the influence of the Continental style of the -twelfth century.</p> - -<h3>RESTENNET PRIORY, <span class="smcap">Forfarshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The remaining towers of the group above enumerated are all square on -plan, and certain of them are connected with churches, and form a part -of them. In these respects, therefore, they differ considerably from the -towers of Abernethy and Brechin. They were all probably built during the -twelfth century. Possibly Restennet is an exception. It is the only one -of the square towers which has very marked features of a pre-Norman -character. The outside dimensions of the Tower of Restennet (<a href="#fig_145">Fig. 145</a>) -are 15 feet 11 inches from north to south by 15 feet 6 inches from east -to west, and the walls are 2 feet 8 inches in thickness.</p> - -<p>There is, on the ground level of the tower, a narrow doorway in the -south side, and a wide archway into the church through the east wall. -There is also a wide archway in the west wall, opening into what has -been a nave, added at a later date; but this opening appears to have -been cut through at a late period.</p> - -<p>The south doorway (<a href="#fig_146">Fig. 146</a>) is 2 feet 4 inches wide by about 8 feet -high. The soffit of the arch is cut out of single stones. The style of -masonry used in the construction of the doorway is peculiar. The -thickness of the wall is made up of three courses, the two outer ones -being large slabs set on edge, and the interior course being built with -smaller stones from a different quarry. The latter are of red and the -former of grey sandstone. The outer and inner stones forming the lintel -are hollowed out with a semi-circular arch opening. Round the exterior -of the doorway there is a raised margin, about eight inches in breadth, -with small projection, similar to the margin of the door at Abernethy. -Except this ancient feature, there is no other attempt at decoration.</p> - -<p>The arch in the east wall (<a href="#fig_147">Fig. 147</a>) is 8 feet 4 inches wide, and is -stated by Mr. Galloway<a name="FNanchor_139_139" id="FNanchor_139_139"></a><a href="#Footnote_139_139" class="fnanchor">[139]</a> to have been 15 feet 8 inches high from the -original floor level to the soffit. The space comprised within the -tower<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179">{179}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_145" id="fig_145"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_179.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_179.png" width="643" height="407" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 145.</span>—Restennet Priory. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180">{180}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">was by this archway included in the original church, which opened into -it exactly like the archway of the tower at Dunning Church (<i>q.v.</i>), -compared with which, however, this opening has a very archaic -appearance.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_146" id="fig_146"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_180.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_180.png" width="143" height="234" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 146.</span>—Restennet Priory. South Doorway of Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There are no floors in the tower, and no stair or means of access to the -upper story, and the tower stands open from the ground to the apex of -the spire.</p> - -<p>Above the arches just described, the tower contains two stories (<a href="#fig_148">Fig. -148</a>). In the first story there is a small opening on the east side, -about 1 foot 8 inches wide and 4 feet 8 inches high, contained within -the space of the choir roof; and on the south side there is another -opening, about half this size. A small round opening, a few inches wide, -in the west wall (<a href="#fig_149">Fig. 149</a>) completes the lights on this story. The -highest story, which is separated from the one below by a string course, -contains an opening with a straight-sided arch on each face, and each of -these openings has an external back-set fillet or margin.</p> - -<p>How the tower was originally finished it is now impossible to say; but -the string course above the second story is the present termination of -the original work. The tower has a decided taper of about two feet in -the height.</p> - -<p>The building above the second story is probably a work of the fifteenth -century, but there appears to be no written account of the erection of -the spire. With the exception of the tower, no part of the original -Church of Restennet remains, but a fragment of a return wall at the base -of the south-east angle of the tower shows that it was connected with -some building.</p> - -<p>The existing ruin (see <a href="#fig_145">Fig. 145.</a>) consists of a choir to the east of the -tower. The south wall of this choir probably occupies the original -position of the south wall of the ancient church. Assuming that the -tower was in the centre of the west wall of the choir, the original -church would be about 14 feet wide, and possibly entered through the -tower by the narrow doorway in the south side.</p> - -<p>The present choir is a first-pointed structure. It is roofless, but -otherwise fairly entire, and measures about 67 feet long by 21 feet 6 -inches wide internally. A part of the centre of the north wall appears -to have been taken down and rebuilt at a late period. In a plan of the -priory, made by Dr. Jamieson of Forfar, and preserved in the Hutton -Collection (Advocates’ Library), the church is shown as being ruinous in -1796. The restoration which has since then taken place probably<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181">{181}</a></span> -accounts for the absence of the buttresses and of the hood mouldings of -two of the rebuilt lancet windows on the north side (see Figs. 148 and -149). On the south side the buttresses have all been pulled down, but -otherwise the wall remains intact, with first-pointed corbels along the -top of the wall. In the east wall, the apex of which is gone (<a href="#fig_150">Fig. 150</a>), -there were</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_147" id="fig_147"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_181.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_181.png" height="356" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 147.</span>—Restennet Priory. Archway in East Wall of -Tower.<a name="FNanchor_140_140" id="FNanchor_140_140"></a> -<a href="#Footnote_140_140" class="fnanchor">[140]</a></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">three lancet windows, which had banded nook shafts in the interior, and -a simple splay externally. At the east end, on the south side, there is -a piscina (<a href="#fig_151">Fig. 151</a>), a sedilia recess, a locker, and a tomb of late -work. On the north side there has been a similar recessed tomb, now -built up. The font shown in <a href="#fig_152">Fig. 152</a> is lying inside the choir, but its -base is gone. It measures 2 feet 4 inches in external width by 1 foot 9 -inches inside, and 18 inches high, with a square hole in the centre. It -appears to be of late date.</p> - -<p>The east wall has angle pilaster buttresses, with scarcely any -projection to the east, but having a few inches projection to the north -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182">{182}</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183">{183}</a></span> </p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_148" id="fig_148"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_182.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_182.png" width="637" height="435" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 148.</span>—Restennet Priory. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">south respectively. The south wall of the church appears, from a return -and tuskings at the east end, to have continued further eastwards. In -the south wall, adjoining the tower, there is a plain, round, arched -doorway. As will be seen from the plan, the present choir is not in the -line of the centre of the tower. Probably the existence of earlier -monastic buildings on the south side may have prevented extension in -that direction; and so, in order to get the width required for the new -choir, it was necessary to extend the building northwards. From the -presence of the sloping skew recess on the west face of the tower, it is -obvious that the nave, which now no longer exists, and is only indicated -by this roof mark, was built nearly in continuation of the walls of the -choir. In Dr. Jamieson’s time, when the foundations of the nave existed, -it was so, and is shown in his drawings running westwards to the west -wall of the cloister, a distance of about 59 feet. The plan shows that -the west enclosing wall is broken off just at the point where the west -wall of the nave joined it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_149" id="fig_149"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_183.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_183.png" width="411" height="635" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 149.</span>—Restennet Priory. View from North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>On the south side of the tower and choir there are raglets, indicating -where the monastic buildings have abutted against them. Of these -buildings all that exist are the boundary walls, shown on plan. These -contain a doorway to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184">{184}</a></span> the south, and another to the west. They are quite -plain, with segmental arched heads. In front of the west door lies a -flat tombstone, probably</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_150" id="fig_150"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_184-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_184-a.png" width="411" height="294" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 150.</span>—Restennet Priory. Interior of East End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the one referred to by Dr. Jamieson as being dated 1553. Dr. Jamieson -further mentions that the courtyard was paved, and that the present -trees and shrubs, which encumber and confuse the place, are recent. In -describing the situation of the priory, he says that it stands on ground -which “juts out into a lake, or loch, of the same name. This, although -now drained in part, has nearly surrounded it. There is a small neck on -the west, where it is said there was a deep ditch and a drawbridge.”</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_151" id="fig_151"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_184-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_184-b.png" width="156" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 151.</span>—Restennet Priory. Piscina.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The date of the foundation of the priory is not known, but it is -recorded that David I. granted to the Prior and Canons 20s. yearly from -the rents of the burgh of Monros, as well as the teinds of these -rents.<a name="FNanchor_141_141" id="FNanchor_141_141"></a><a href="#Footnote_141_141" class="fnanchor">[141]</a> The monastery was dedicated to St. Peter, and was of the -Order of St. Augustine. Between 1159 and 1163 it was attached to -Jedburgh by Malcolm <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185">{185}</a></span><small>IV.</small></p> - -<p>After the Reformation, it continued to be the parish church of Forfar, -where, says Dr. Jamieson, there was only a private chapel, “an aisle of -the old church, till it was pulled down a few weeks ago, as they are -about to build a new church.”</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_152" id="fig_152"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_185.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_185.png" width="140" height="152" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 152.</span>—Restennet Priory. Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Further particulars of the history of Restennet, and of its early Celtic -importance, with a very minute and illustrated description, will be -found in the <i>Archæologia Scotica</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small>, Part 2. There can be no -doubt of the great antiquity of the tower; and, as pointed out by Mr. -Galloway in the above paper, its features associate it with Irish -architecture. It may, therefore, be classed along with the towers of -Abernethy and Brechin; but it is of a ruder, and possibly earlier, type -than they are.</p> - -<h3>ST. REGULUS’, OR ST. RULE’S, <span class="smcap">St. Andrews, Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This remarkable edifice stands in the ancient churchyard at a distance -of fully 100 feet south-east from the Cathedral of St. Andrews (<i>q.v.</i>) -St. Regulus’ was, doubtless, the Cathedral Church of St. Andrews before -the edifice, afterwards constructed as the Cathedral, and now ruinous, -existed.</p> - -<p>The early occupation of the site of St. Andrews for religious purposes -is referred to in the Introduction.<a name="FNanchor_142_142" id="FNanchor_142_142"></a><a href="#Footnote_142_142" class="fnanchor">[142]</a> Cellach was the first Bishop of -St. Andrews, about the beginning of the tenth century. He was succeeded -by ten Culdee Bishops, the last of whom was Fodath, who performed the -ceremony of the marriage of Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret. The -settlement of the Culdees became broken up and partly secularised, and -under Bishop Robert (1121-59) Canons regular were introduced in 1144, -who gradually absorbed the Culdees into their community.</p> - -<p>Dr. Joseph Robertson<a name="FNanchor_143_143" id="FNanchor_143_143"></a><a href="#Footnote_143_143" class="fnanchor">[143]</a> states it as his opinion that “no one -acquainted with the progress of architecture, who diligently peruses the -<i>Historia B. Reguli et Fundationis Ecclesiæ S. Andreæ</i>, will have much -difficulty in identifying the building [of St. Regulus] with the small -‘basilica’ reared by Bishop Robert, an English Canon regular of the -Order of St. Augustine, between the years 1127 and 1144.” Robert, Prior -of Scone, was elected Bishop in the reign of Alexander <small>I.</small>, but was not -consecrated till the reign of David <small>I.</small>, in 1138. The passage, referred -to by Dr. Robertson is as follows:—</p> - -<p>“But before the newly-elected Bishop (Robert, Prior of Scone) was -consecrated, King Alexander, who was now in his last illness, left his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186">{186}</a></span> -sole surviving brother, King David (who now is), heir both of the -kingdom and of his devotion to the Church and his care of the poor. The -undertakings of his late brother he endeavours to carry to completion. -He has founded many monasteries for monks, canons, and nuns, and on -these he has bestowed many benefactions; while to the servants and -handmaids of Christ themselves he has done many acts of kindness, on -which we cannot here enlarge. He obtained that the Bishop of St. -Andrews, Robert, already mentioned, was consecrated by Thurstan, -Archbishop of York. This being done, Robert returned to his see, and</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_153" id="fig_153"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_186.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_186.png" width="288" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 153.</span>—St. Regulus Church. Plan.<a name="FNanchor_144_144" id="FNanchor_144_144"></a><a href="#Footnote_144_144" class="fnanchor">[144]</a></p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">proceeded to put in practice what he had in his view—viz., the -enlargement of his church, and its dedication to divine service. On this -work he expended the seventh part of the altar dues which fell to him, -reserving them for his own use. But inasmuch as the outlay was small, -the building made correspondingly small progress, until, by the Divine -favour and the influence of the King, offerings flowed in, and the work -went on apace. The basilica was thus founded, and in great part -constructed.”—<i>Chronicles of the Picts and Scots</i>, p. 191.</p> - -<p>There can be little doubt that the building still surviving is the -basilica of Bishop Robert. Its architectural features correspond with -his date, and there is no other structure to which the above notice -would apply. The similarity of St. Regulus’ in many points to the early -churches of Northumbria has already been adverted to.<a name="FNanchor_145_145" id="FNanchor_145_145"></a><a href="#Footnote_145_145" class="fnanchor">[145]</a></p> - -<p>The edifice (<a href="#fig_153">Fig. 153</a>) consists of a chamber 26 feet long and 19 feet 10 -inches wide internally, with walls about 34 feet high. The great height -of the building, as compared with its width and length, is one of the -points which connect it with the pre-Norman structures of Northumbria. -There appears to have been an eastern apse, of which only portions of -the foundations next the main structure now remain. A lofty square tower -(<a href="#fig_154">Fig. 154</a>) at the west end of the oblong chamber is the most striking -feature of the building. It is about 110 feet high, and measures about -21 feet 4 inches square over the walls.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187">{187}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_154" id="fig_154"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_187.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_187.png" width="357" height="626" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 154.</span>—St. Regulus’. West Side of Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188">{188}</a></span></p> - -<p>At the east end of the main building a lofty archway (<a href="#fig_155">Fig. 155</a>) opens -towards what was probably the apse. The opening is 9 feet wide by</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_155" id="fig_155"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_188.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_188.png" height="488" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 155.</span>—St. Regulus’. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>25 feet 6 inches high. Each jamb has three attached shafts (<a href="#fig_156">Fig. 156</a>), -with somewhat rude caps and bases, and bold mouldings in the arch. The -existence of this archway clearly indicates that there was a building<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189">{189}</a></span> -towards the east of it, and we have no doubt that it was an apse; while -the main building was the chancel, and the nave stood (as will be shown) -to the west of the tower.</p> - -<p>The tower is pierced with an archway in each of its east and west walls. -The lower part of the west wall of the tower projects about 2 feet 2 -inches on each side beyond the side walls, with a breadth of about 2 -feet 5 inches, and finishes upwards in a roughly-tapering form at the -level of the top of the western arch. (See <a href="#fig_154">Fig. 154.</a>) These projecting -portions of wall have somewhat the appearance of side buttresses to the -tower, but they are more like the remains of the east wall of a nave, -which now no longer exists. They have not the character of -originally-built early buttresses, but have rather that of the remains -of projecting walls, dressed up at a later period. Besides, it is a -characteristic of the structure that it has no buttresses flanking the -other arches. There is observable on the west face of the tower the mark -of a roof. This mark, if produced on each side to about the level of the -top of the chancel walls, would indicate the roof of a nave about ten or -twelve feet wider than the tower. There seems to be no other way of -explaining the mark of the roof and the projecting portions of the side -walls except by supposing that there was at one time a nave to the west -of the tower. This would also give a reason for the existence of the</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_156" id="fig_156"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_189-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_189-a.png" height="286" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 156.</span>—St. Regulus’. Details of East Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">east and west arches in the tower, which otherwise are somewhat -unintelligible.</p> - -<p>The arch opening from the chancel to the tower is 9 feet 10 inches wide -by 27 feet high, and is of a plainer description than the apse archway.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_157" id="fig_157"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_189-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_189-b.png" width="114" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 157.</span>—St. Regulus’. Arch Moulding of West Arch of -Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The jambs have a square recess or nook on each face of the wall with a -shaft in each recess; and the arch above is quite plain, with square -edges. The western arch, from the tower into the supposed nave, is shown -in Fig. 154. It is 10 feet 4 inches wide by 28 feet high. Both of the -archways in the tower are now built up. The moulding of the west arch, -as far as visible, is shown in Fig. 157. The capitals of all the shafts -are rather shapeless and clumsy, but the necking and arch mouldings are -of good design. The arches are all slightly of the horse-shoe form.</p> - -<p>The three-arched openings above described are all of about the same<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190">{190}</a></span> -dimensions, and as the two eastern ones cannot be called doorways, so -neither can the western one be considered as merely the entrance doorway -to the church, but would rather appear to be the arched opening from the -nave into the tower and chancel. When we consider that this church was -once a cathedral, as well as the church of a monastery, and also, -perhaps, served the purpose of a parish church, it seems probable that -it must have been a larger building than the simple oblong chamber to -the east of the tower which now survives. Considerable discussion has -taken place with reference to the probable arrangement of the plan. Some -have supposed that the church consisted of the simple oblong chamber -which still exists, with an eastern apse and western tower; while others -maintain that the existing oblong was the choir, that there was a -western nave, and that the tower was central. Sir G. Gilbert Scott -points out that in the latter case St. Regulus’ would be parallel to -Jarrow Church, while in the former case the church may have had a lofty -western porch, as had those of Wearmouth and Barton-upon-Humber. Sir -Gilbert, however, thinks that the large size of the western arch, and -the mark of</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_158" id="fig_158"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_190.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_190.png" width="153" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 158.</span>—St. Regulus. Belfry Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the roof on the tower, suggest a nave.<a name="FNanchor_146_146" id="FNanchor_146_146"></a><a href="#Footnote_146_146" class="fnanchor">[146]</a> The seals of the church, -dated 1204 and 1214, which are preserved at Durham, show a nave and -chancel.</p> - -<p>The chancel is lighted by four windows, two on each side, placed at -about 14 feet above the ground. (See <a href="#fig_155">Fig. 155.</a>) They are round headed, -the circles being cut out of a single stone on the outside, but arched -on the inside. The openings are 6 feet 6 inches high and 1 foot 10 -inches wide, and have broad splays internally.</p> - -<p>The building has a cornice at the wall-head, containing a series of -simple corbels. A string course runs round the tower below the top -story, and above it there is a belfry window on each face, about 3 feet -wide by 8 feet 9 inches high. Each window is divided into two openings -by a rounded centre shaft (<a href="#fig_158">Fig. 158</a>), and there were round nook shafts -at each side, but these have now fallen away. There are a few small -openings on each face at different stages. The tower is crowned with a -cornice, having two rows of simple corbels similar to those of the -chancel cornice. On the east side there is an opening into the space -which was covered by the chancel roof. The floors of the tower have been -of timber, and there is one set-off in the inside of about 6 inches, at -a height of about 64 feet. There was no access stair. At the north-west -corner of the chancel, and at the wall-head level, there are two caps -which have a very distinct appearance of being of first pointed date.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191">{191}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="NORMAN_ARCHITECTURE" id="NORMAN_ARCHITECTURE"></a>NORMAN ARCHITECTURE.</h2> - -<p>A general description of the features which distinguish this style of -architecture has been given in the Introduction,<a name="FNanchor_147_147" id="FNanchor_147_147"></a><a href="#Footnote_147_147" class="fnanchor">[147]</a> together with a -short summary of the Scottish structures in the Norman style.<a name="FNanchor_148_148" id="FNanchor_148_148"></a><a href="#Footnote_148_148" class="fnanchor">[148]</a> The -more minute features will be referred to in the descriptions of the -various churches. It may, however, be pointed out that few structures -survive in Scotland which exhibit elevations of façades, such as the -east and west fronts of churches, or the north and south façades of -transepts, which show the true Norman character. In all Norman churches -of any importance in other countries the façades forming the end -elevations in the above positions are composed of several stories, piled -up one above the other. (See <a href="#fig_17">Fig. 17.</a>) In the later styles, the design -of the façade is generally composed of one predominating feature, such -as a large traceried window, or a series of lofty lancets (like the Five -Sisters of York), rising above a single lower story, which generally -contains a doorway. But in Norman architecture the façades are usually -divided up into a series of stories, one over the other—an arrangement -which, to a certain extent, fails to give the impression of one large -structure, such as is conveyed in the façades of the later Gothic -styles.</p> - -<p>In Scotland proper there is only one building of magnitude in which this -storied style is preserved—viz., the Abbey Church of Kelso. The same -features may, however, be still observed in the façades of the transepts -of Kirkwall Cathedral, Orkney. At St. Andrews Cathedral the original -storied Norman east end was subsequently altered. In other large Norman -churches, such as Dunfermline Abbey, the façades have been removed or -altered. The smaller churches in the Norman style are not of sufficient -height to give expression to this peculiarity.</p> - -<p>It has been shown in the preceding chapter that some of our early Celtic -structures were transitional, and contained some signs of the approach -of the Norman style; but after its introduction, in the twelfth century, -that style at once became universal in the civilised parts of the -country, and all the churches of that date of which any portions survive -were erected in accordance with the Norman fashion. It has been often -remarked that the twelfth century was the great church-building epoch in -Scotland, as elsewhere, and the number of these Norman edifices still -traceable in the south and east of the country is very large.</p> - -<p>The parish churches are generally small and aisleless, most of them -being single oblong chambers, with an eastern chancel, sometimes with an -eastern apse, and occasionally there was a western tower. St. Nicholas’, -Aberdeen, was cruciform, and had a central tower.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192">{192}</a></span></p> - -<p>During the Norman period monasticism prevailed, and almost all the large -churches were conventual. These churches were always designed on the -cruciform plan, and contained choir, nave, and north and south transept, -each portion having side aisles, and the transepts usually only an -eastern aisle. The small churches and side aisles were frequently -vaulted, but the large churches appear to have been designed for wooden -roofs.</p> - -<p>The details and ornaments of the style are often very elaborate, and -invariably correspond with those in use in England at, or rather earlier -than, the corresponding period. In the early examples, the design was -very simple, and ornament was sparingly used; but as time advanced the -style was gradually enriched, until towards the close of the period the -ornament became very elaborate, especially in the arched heads of -doorways, as at Kelso, Jedburgh, and Dunfermline.</p> - -<p>A common feature in Norman buildings was an arcade running round the -walls below the windows. Almost every Norman structure of importance in -Scotland contains this arcade, either in the interior or exterior, or -both, and the caps and arches are generally elaborately and richly -carved with ornaments. Here, and generally throughout Norman structures, -the chevron or zig-zag enrichment is a characteristic feature. The other -enrichments of the period in other countries consist of the billet, the -bird’s beak, faceted sinkings, grotesque heads, rosettes, &c., all of -which are found in the Scottish examples. The doorways are generally the -points where the carving is richest, and it naturally followed that the -doorways are often preserved where the other parts of the buildings are -altered or rebuilt. The windows are always single, and simple in -details.</p> - -<p>Some of the towers above enumerated are amongst the earliest examples of -Norman work which survive. They contain some reminiscences of the early -defensive purpose of such structures. They are extremely simple in -design, being square on plan, and carried up, without break or buttress, -to the parapet, where they were finished with a gabled roof, forming the -saddleback arrangement still preserved in the tower at Muthill.</p> - -<p>The only break in the height is formed by string courses, which mark the -unequal stories. A small wheel stair usually leads to the top. The -doorway in some instances is placed several feet above the ground.</p> - -<p>Amongst these towers are to be found most of the small fragments which -still survive of the extensive building works encouraged by David <small>I.</small> in -the first half of the twelfth century.</p> - -<p>In the following descriptions the churches are arranged, as far as -possible, in the order of their probable dates, commencing with the -oldest and simplest, and continuing with the later and more elaborate -examples.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193">{193}</a></span></p> - -<h3>MARKINCH TOWER, <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The Church and Churchyard of Markinch stand on the top of a small hill, -round the base of which lie the houses of the town. The church and its -Norman tower are thus conspicuous objects as seen from the railway in -approaching from Kirkcaldy, which is about seven miles distant to the -southward. The inch, or island, is believed to have derived its name -from having been formerly surrounded by a marsh.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_159" id="fig_159"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_193.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_193.png" width="405" height="326" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 159.</span>—Markinch Church Tower. Plans and Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>A church was consecrated here in 1243, and dedicated to Saints John -Baptist and Modrest. There was at one time a Culdee cell in this -locality, but afterwards the church belonged to the Priory of St. -Andrews.</p> - -<p>The only part of the original structure which survives is the tower, -which is undoubtedly an ancient Norman building.</p> - -<p>It is nearly square on plan (<a href="#fig_159">Fig. 159</a>), being 16 feet from north to -south by 17 feet from east to west. The tower rises (<a href="#fig_160">Fig. 160</a>) without a -break (except a string course at each floor) to the height of four -stories,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194">{194}</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195">{195}</a></span> </p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_160" id="fig_160"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_194.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_194.png" width="301" height="630" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 160.</span>—Markinch Tower. From South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">or 73 feet to the top of the parapet. The original entrance (<a href="#fig_161">Fig. 161</a>) -is by a door, two feet wide, at the north-west angle. The sill is now -about two feet above the ground, but it doubtless stood several feet -higher originally. From the doorway a wheel stair leads to the upper -floors. The stair and upper floors were lighted by small windows, with -round heads. These are now built up, except one in the south side, which -has been changed into a trefoil head. The top story is lighted by a -window in each face. Each of these windows (see <a href="#fig_159">Fig. 159.</a>) consists of -two openings, divided by a central shaft. On the exterior each opening -is arched, with a small semi-circular arch, cut out of one stone; but in -the interior both openings are spanned by one arch. The arrangement of -the shafts is peculiar, the central shaft being placed so as to be in -the centre of the abacus which carries the small arches, while the side -shafts are wrought upon the angles of the jambs, and do not stand in the -same plane as the central shaft. The caps are Norman, of the usual -cushion form, with heavy abacus; but they and the bases are now much -decayed.</p> - -<p>The original mode of finishing the tower is now matter of conjecture, -but it was doubtless (as stated by Mr. Muir) finished with a saddleback -or gabled roof. It is now terminated with a modern cornice, above which -a heavy modern spire has been erected, the top story being domed in -order to carry the spire.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_161" id="fig_161"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_195.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_195.png" width="228" height="599" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 161.</span>—Markinch Tower. From North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The top story is slightly diminished in size, and is set back over the -string course. The lower string courses are of three-sided section, and -have been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196">{196}</a></span> carved with the ordinary Norman enrichment of the lozenge -(see <a href="#fig_161">Fig. 161.</a>). These are now nearly wasted away. The church attached to -the tower is entirely modern, and a modern doorway of entrance has been -cut through the tower.</p> - -<h3>MUTHILL CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Perthshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The parish of Muthill lies about three miles south of Crieff. The -ancient church, with its venerable tower, remained entire and in use as -the parish church till about the year 1818, when, unfortunately, it was -abandoned for a new building erected about that time. We are enabled to -give a view<a name="FNanchor_149_149" id="FNanchor_149_149"></a><a href="#Footnote_149_149" class="fnanchor">[149]</a> of the old church (<a href="#fig_162">Fig. 162</a>), made by John Claude -Nattes about the year 1799, from which it will be seen how eminently -picturesque the old structure was, and how deplorable is the ruin which -has overtaken it in the last half-century.<a name="FNanchor_150_150" id="FNanchor_150_150"></a><a href="#Footnote_150_150" class="fnanchor">[150]</a></p> - -<p>The church (<a href="#fig_163">Fig. 163</a>) consisted of the ancient square tower at the west -end, with a nave having north and south aisles, and an aisleless choir. -The tower is one of the best preserved of the Norman towers in Scotland. -It is nearly square on plan, and measures about 15 feet 3 inches on each -side, with walls about 3 feet 2 inches thick. It has two offsets (<a href="#fig_164">Fig. -164</a>) on the outside of the two upper stories, and a string course above -the lower stage. This string course is of the usual Norman section, and -is ornamented with the lozenge pattern, except on the east face, where -it is plain. The walls are built plumb inside, with neither corbels nor -projecting courses to carry floors. The tower is about 51 feet 3 inches -high from the ground to the eaves, and about 16 feet 6 inches more to -the apex of the gables. The latter, with their crow-steps, doubtless -belong to a late period; but they probably represent the original mode -of termination of the tower. The roof must be at least some centuries -old. It is constructed with timbers about seven inches square, in the -manner shown on section (<a href="#fig_165">Fig. 165</a>); they are fixed together with wooden -pins. With slight repairs and attention, which it greatly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197">{197}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_162" id="fig_162"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_197.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_197.png" width="641" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 162.</span>—Muthill Church. From South-East. (From Sketch -by Nattes, about 1799.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198">{198}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">requires, the roof would last for generations to come. We may remark -that several cracks in the masonry, which were very conspicuous when we -sketched the tower about fifteen years ago, have now been filled up.</p> - -<p>The belfry stage has an opening in each face. Those on the west and -north sides (see <a href="#fig_164">Fig. 164.</a>) consist of large arches, each containing two -smaller ones. They are alike, and measure about 3 feet 5 inches wide on -the inside by about 5 feet 10 inches high to top of large arch, and -about 4 feet 2 inches of daylight. They are divided with a central -octagonal shaft, with round responds set well back in the wall. The -shafts have all cushion capitals, those of the responds being slightly -higher than those of the central shafts. The arches springing from these -caps are very rudely formed. Each of these two windows is wider at the -springing of the arch</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_163" id="fig_163"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_198.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_198.png" width="449" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 163.</span>—Muthill Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">than at the base by about 2½ inches, and the responds taper even more. -The latter have no bases, while the centre shafts have only the merest -fillet. The south window (<a href="#fig_166">Fig. 166</a>) has a square lintel. It is about 3 -feet 8½ inches wide by 4 feet 1½ inch high, and has no taper. The -opening is divided by a mullion, placed flush with the outer face of the -wall. The east window is a single light, about 1 foot 7 inches wide -inside, increasing by 2 inches to the outside. It is 3 feet 11 inches -high, and is 2 inches wider at the lintel than at the base. We have -minutely described these windows, as they are peculiar in their -differences, and are undoubtedly original. We know of no reason why the -north and west ones should be so much more ornamental than the other -two.</p> - -<p>This tower appears to have stood quite isolated, like that of Dunblane -Cathedral. There is nothing to indicate that it was attached to any<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199">{199}</a></span> -building. There are no roof ragglets, but only the faintest mark caused -by the pointing where the roof of the present ruin joined the walls. -What position the tower occupied in regard to the early church, which</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_164" id="fig_164"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_199.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_199.png" height="482" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 164.</span>—Muthill Church. View of Tower from -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">doubtless stood here, cannot now be ascertained. There seems to have -been a doorway on the west face of the ground floor (see <a href="#fig_164">Fig. 164.</a>), -about 4 feet wide, formed with a flat arch about 7 feet 6 inches above -the present level of the ground; but it is doubtful if the door came to -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200">{200}</a></span> level of the ground, which seems to have been raised in the course -of centuries. A door opened into the church on the east side of the -tower. It is about 3 feet wide by 6 feet 2 inches high, and has also a -flat arch; but it is not easy to say whether these doors are original or -are insertions. In the basement floor on the north and south sides there -is a square-headed window, about 7 or 8 feet above the floor. The one on -the north side is 12 inches wide by about 1 foot 10 inches high, and is -divided by a mullion placed similarly to that in the south belfry -window.</p> - -<p>From the foregoing description, it seems not unlikely that the same -ideas which prevailed with the builders of the round towers actuated the -men who built this one. It probably contained the bells, and was used as -a place of safety detached from the church.</p> - -<p>The tower is enclosed on three sides by the church. From the east face -of the tower the nave measures 46 feet 1 inch in length, and, including -the tower, the central aisle of the nave measures 58 feet 10 inches in -length by 20 feet 6 inches in width, and the total width inside, -including the aisles, is 45 feet 5 inches. The total length of the -church inside, including the chancel, is 105 feet 5 inches, and the -width of the chancel is 16 feet.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_165" id="fig_165"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_200.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_200.png" height="308" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 165.</span>—Muthill Church. Plan and Section of Top Story -of Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The walls of the main nave are wider than the tower. The south aisle -(see <a href="#fig_166">Fig. 166.</a>) is divided into three bays, and the north aisle into two -bays. The piers are octagonal, with corresponding responds. There are no -capitals on the piers, and the bases have simple splays; the splayed -arches of the arcade die against the piers (<a href="#fig_167">Fig. 167</a>). From the floor to -the springing of the arches is 6 feet 7½ inches, and to the soffit of -the arch at the apex is 17 feet 4½ inches. The chancel arch, which is 13 -feet 11 inches wide, is treated in a similar manner to the other arches, -and is a few feet higher.</p> - -<p>The roof of the church is shown on the sketch by Nattes as being in one -span; so that there does not appear to have been a clerestory over the -nave arcade. Now only the foundation of the north aisle wall remains, -and the chancel walls are reduced to a few feet in height; while at the -west end they have almost disappeared, showing how badly used the place -has been during this century. The entrance to the church was by a -square-lintelled doorway in the centre of the south wall of the nave, -and there appears to have been a priests’ doorway in the south side of -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201">{201}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_166" id="fig_166"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_201.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_201.png" width="585" height="423" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 166.</span>—Muthill Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202">{202}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">chancel. There is a door through the east wall of the north aisle, which -possibly led into what may have been a sacristy or vestry. At the west</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_167" id="fig_167"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_202-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_202-a.png" width="416" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 167.</span>—Muthill Church. West Window and Respond.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">end of the north aisle there seems to have been a chapel, lighted with a -west window.</p> - -<p>The windows of the church, of which three remain entire in the south</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_168" id="fig_168"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_202-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_202-b.png" width="276" height="107" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 168.</span>—Muthill Church. Plan of Windows in South -Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203">{203}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">aisle (<a href="#fig_168">Fig. 168</a>), contain three lights in each. They are of good design, -and resemble windows in the north side of Dunblane Cathedral. The east -window in the south aisle of the nave is completely demolished, and only -one jamb remains of the west window of the north-west chapel. Over each -of the end windows of the south aisle there are small pointed windows, -widely splayed towards the</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_169" id="fig_169"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_203-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_203-a.png" width="172" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 169.</span>—Muthill Church. Remains of Sedilia.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">inside. One of these is shown in Fig. 164. An ambry at the east end of -the south aisle, and a roughly-formed recess or ambry on the north side -of the chancel, with the remains of a sedilia, complete the -ecclesiastical appurtenances of the church, so far as they have been -spared, if, indeed, the latter can be said to have been spared. It is -situated in the usual place, near the east end of the chancel; but only -a portion of the west corner remains. (<a href="#fig_169">Fig. 169</a>). It is moulded, having -a hollow set in a splay, with a stop chamfer above the seat level. How -it was finished along the top nothing remains to indicate. There were -three seats, graduated in height—an unusual feature in Scotland. The -lowest seat, which is 1 foot 11 inches wide, is the narrowest; the -centre one is 2 feet 3 inches; and the east one appears to have been the -widest, but, the wall being broken down, the exact dimensions cannot be -given.</p> - -<p>Opposite the sedilia are the mutilated remains of two figures. (<a href="#fig_170">Fig. -170</a>). They are life-size, and are cut out of one stone. They have</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_170" id="fig_170"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_203-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_203-b.png" width="268" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 170.</span>—Muthill Church. Monument.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">recently been protected by a strong iron hearse, and the following -inscription on the wall behind tells who they were, viz.:—“In memory of -Ada, daughter of Henry, Seneschal of Strathearn, and of Sir Muriel -Drummond, first Knight of Concraig, who died 1362, whose effigies -beneath have wasted by the long Lapse of Time. This Tablet has been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204">{204}</a></span> -placed by their Descendants, the Drummonds of Megginch, late of Lennoch, -in Strathearn. A.D., 1880.”</p> - -<p>The edifice, now in ruins, was built by Michael Ochiltree, who was first -Dean, then Bishop of Dunblane. Keith (<i>Catalogue</i>) says:—“It is to be -supposed that he built the Church of Muthill while he was Dean only, -that church belonging to the deanery.” He was Dean in 1425, and Bishop -in 1430. When he died is not known, but he was Bishop in 1445, and his -successor, Robert Lauder, was Bishop in 1449. Spottiswood says that -Ochiltree was “a wealthy prelate, and well esteemed; and so purchased to -his see a great part of the forfeited lands of Strathearn, adorned the -Cathedral of Dunblane, built the bridge of Knaik and Machant, with the -Church of Muthill, and did in his time divers other good works.” He -crowned James <small>II.</small> in Holyrood in 1437, and his effigy is shown in the -nave of Dunblane Cathedral.</p> - -<h3>ST. SERF’S, DUNNING,<a name="FNanchor_151_151" id="FNanchor_151_151"></a><a href="#Footnote_151_151" class="fnanchor">[151]</a> <span class="smcap">Perthshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The village of Dunning is situated in Lower Strathearn, about 1¾ mile -south-east of the railway station of the same name. The following -historical facts connected with the church and district are from a -scarce “History of Dunning,” by the late Rev. John Wilson, minister of -the parish.</p> - -<p>“Dunning,” Mr. Wilson says, “when first heard of in authentic history, -formed part of the ancient Stewartry or Earldom of Strathearn, and dates -back to a remote antiquity,” the Earls or Courts Palatine of Strathearn -dating from before the Norman Conquest. When the foreign immigrants -arrived in Scotland, in the twelfth century, under David I., “there were -families of the ancient Scottish or Celtic blood who held their own, and -maintained their native customs amid the new-fangled innovations of the -Saxon and Norman chivalry. One of the most famous of these native -magnates was Malis, Earl of Strathearn, who acted a prominent part in -the disastrous Battle of the Standard.”</p> - -<p>In the course of time this reserve on the part of the native nobles wore -away, and we find that Gilbert, the grandson of Malis, “took charters -from the king for the lands which his fathers had held by their swords. -He connected himself by marriage with the new-comers, and rivalled the -most zealous of the followers of King David in his munificence to the -Church.” He “richly endowed the neighbouring Abbey of Canons Regular at -Inchaffray, annexing to it the tithes of many of the surrounding -parishes,” as is shown by the foundation charter of the Abbey in the -library of the Earl of Kinnoull, “dated in the year 1200 from the -incarnation of our Lord, in the thirty-fifth year of the reign of King -William.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205">{205}</a></span>”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_171" id="fig_171"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_205.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_205.png" width="417" height="605" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 171.</span>—Tower of St. Serf’s, Dunning. From -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206">{206}</a></span></p> - -<p>In a charter of confirmation, nineteen years later, Gilbert, in addition -to his former liberality, grants to Inchaffray, “<i>Ecclesiam sancti -servani de Dunnyne</i>,” the “church dedicated to St. Servanus, or Serf, at -Dunning;” so that we have here proof of the existence of a church at -Dunning in the year 1219, and it may be inferred that it did not exist -in the year 1200, from its not being mentioned in the charters of that -year. The date, therefore, of the erection of this church is narrowed to -the early years of the thirteenth century, and there need be no -hesitation in assigning to that time the present tower and certain other -portions of</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_172" id="fig_172"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_206.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_206.png" width="283" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 172.</span>—St. Serf’s, Dunning. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the structure. This tower, although similar in general form to those at -Muthill and Dunblane, is considerably later in date. It is an example of -Norman work continuing to be used in Scotland for some years after 1200, -the pointed form of the arch being the only indication of the coming -change of style.</p> - -<p>The tower (<a href="#fig_171">Fig. 171</a>), which is of Norman architecture, is placed at the -west end of the church (<a href="#fig_172">Fig. 172</a>). It is built in three unequal tapering -stages, and without buttresses, to a height of about 75 feet to the -ridge. The two stories above the church roof have small square-lintelled -windows, but in the belfry stage double windows are introduced (<a href="#fig_173">Fig. -173</a>). Both lights are contained within a plain square-edged round arch, -without imposts, and the two lights, which have plain round arches, are -separated by a central shaft with cushion cap. The crow-stepped gablets -of the saddle-backed roof are probably of later date, but they, no -doubt, indicate the original style of finishing the tower. The turret -stair, shown on plan (see <a href="#fig_172">Fig. 172.</a>) stops about half-way up, access -above being obtained by wooden ladders. The elaborately-carved and -pointed archway (<a href="#fig_174">Fig. 174</a>), opening from the tower into the church, is a -most noteworthy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207">{207}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_173" id="fig_173"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_207.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_207.png" width="391" height="635" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 173.</span>—St. Serf’s, Dunning. South-East View of -Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208">{208}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_174" id="fig_174"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_208.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_208.png" width="436" height="656" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 174.</span>—St. Serf’s, Dunning. Archway in Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209">{209}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_175" id="fig_175"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_209.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_209.png" width="443" height="586" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 175.</span>—St. Serf’s, Dunning. Plan of Tower and Detail -of Archway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210">{210}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">feature, and was quite concealed from view till disclosed during the -course of some recent repairs. Figs. 175, 176, and 177 show the details -of this archway.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_176" id="fig_176"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_210-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_210-a.png" width="295" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 176.</span>—St. Serf’s, Dunning. Details of Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Considerable portions of the old church still remain. The building,</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_177" id="fig_177"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_210-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_210-b.png" width="226" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 177.</span>—St. Serf’s, Dunning. Apex of Archway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">as it now stands, is 68 feet long by 25 feet wide on the outside at the -east end, and 26 feet 9 inches at the west end. The total length, -including the tower, is 82 feet, the height of which to the ridge is 75 -feet.</p> - -<p>The church has been greatly altered at various times; an aisle has been -added on the north side, and the ancient north doorway (<a href="#fig_178">Fig. 178</a>) has -been disfigured and almost concealed by an outside staircase being built -across it. The west gable wall of the church, however, and a good part -of the north wall and the east wall are original. The ancient corbels at -the north parapet<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211">{211}</a></span> still survive (see <a href="#fig_178">Fig. 178.</a>), and the raggle of the -original roof is seen against the east side of the tower (see <a href="#fig_173">Fig. 173.</a>). -It is thus quite evident that the existing building is in great part on -the site of the <i>Ecclesia</i></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_178" id="fig_178"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_211.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_211.png" height="482" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 178.</span>—St. Serf’s, Dunning. Doorway, &c., on North -Side.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><i>sancti servani de Dunnyne</i>. There appears to have been a chancel, as -Mr. Thomson informs us that during alterations about twenty-five years -ago the bases of the pillars were found <i>in situ</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212">{212}</a></span></p> - -<h3>CRUGGLETON CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Wigtonshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The parish of Cruggleton now forms part of the parish of Sorbie, with -which it was united in the seventeenth century. The old church of -Cruggleton is situated near the coast about three miles from Garleston,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_179" id="fig_179"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_212.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_212.png" width="417" height="517" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 179.</span>—Cruggleton Church. Chancel Arch, from West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213">{213}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">and about the same distance from Whithorn, to the priory at which it -belonged before the Reformation. The church of Cruggleton, being -abandoned, fell into decay. The view (<a href="#fig_179">Fig. 179</a>), for which we have to -thank Mr. Galloway, shows its condition before it was recently restored -by the Marquis of Bute, under Mr. Galloway’s careful superintendence. -The building is still surrounded by its burial-ground. The plan (<a href="#fig_181">Fig. -181</a>) shows a simple oblong church, 34 feet in length by 20 feet in -width, with an oblong chancel 20 feet 3 inches long by 16 feet wide. The -side walls were considerably damaged, but enough of them remained</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_180" id="fig_180"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_213.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_213.png" width="427" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 180.</span>—Cruggleton Church. Chancel Arch. From -South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">to enable the outline to be distinctly traced. The best preserved and -most important feature was the chancel arch, which was 8 feet in width. -Its architecture, which was extremely simple, was of the early Norman -style. It had three orders on the side next the nave (see <a href="#fig_179">Fig. 179.</a>), -each side having two nook shafts, built in courses and provided with -cushion caps. The inner jambs were plain, and the aperture in the wall -was simply faced with a square ingoing of ashlar, and enclosed on the -side next the chancel (<a href="#fig_180">Fig. 180</a>) with a single square-edged arch -springing from a very plain impost.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214">{214}</a></span></p> - -<p>Mr. Muir points out that when he visited the church the walls, “except -the west one, which wants the gable, are at about their full height; but</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_181" id="fig_181"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_214-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_214-a.png" width="377" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 181.</span>—Cruggleton Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">most of the dressed stones have been torn from the corners of both -compartments, the chancel arch and other parts easily got at.” He could -not discern traces of there having</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_182" id="fig_182"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_214-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_214-b.png" height="281" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 182.</span>—Cruggleton Church. North Doorway as Restored.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">ever been more than two windows, “that on the east a small and very -plain round headed one, widely splayed within, and the west one of the -same shape, but much broader, and set square in the wall.” In the -restoration carried out by Mr. Galloway great care has been taken to -restore every part (so far as precedent could be obtained) to its -original condition. As an example of Mr. Galloway’s patient research we -may quote his account of the steps by which the original design of the -south doorway was ascertained. “To begin with, a stone or two of the -internal sconsions remained <i>in situ</i>. This gave the position and size -internally of the long demolished doorway. Part of the paving and -massive rubble steps at the outside<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215">{215}</a></span> also remained. Of the external -features there seemed at first to be no trace. The discovery of one -stone threw a flood of light on it. This was the base of a column which -had never been shifted out of its position, but simply lifted and laid -on its side, with the bottom bed outwards, so as to look like an -ordinary courser. I also found about the same place several plain arch -stones, also a capital of simple form, and from these materials, and -especially the base found <i>in situ</i>, there could be no doubt that the -external features were a plain ring like that of the chancel arch -carried on engaged columns. In taking down some of a dry stone dyke a -large rybat and an arch stone checked and chamfered were found, which -could only be part of the actual doorway. The only uncertainty is the -height; the original may have been lower, but we cannot be certain. I -adhered to the proportions usual in other examples.” <a href="#fig_182">Fig. 182</a> shows the -restored doorway, “a recovery out of the long forgotten past.”</p> - -<h3>MONYMUSK CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Aberdeenshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>A few remains of the ancient church of Monymusk still survive and are -incorporated with the modern church now erected on the old site. The -village is situated in the valley of the Don, about one mile from the -station of the branch railway to Alford, and is about seven miles up the -valley from Kintore Junction. Monymusk is a place of great antiquity, -being one of the oldest seats of the Culdees in the North of Scotland. A -church is said to have been founded here by Malcolm Canmore, who</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_183" id="fig_183"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_215.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_215.png" width="271" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 183.</span>—Monymusk Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">vowed it to St. Andrew, and marked off the tower with his spear before -engaging in battle against the Mormaer of Moray. Dr. Skene<a name="FNanchor_152_152" id="FNanchor_152_152"></a><a href="#Footnote_152_152" class="fnanchor">[152]</a> points -out that the community of Keledei at Monimusc were connected with St. -Andrews, having probably been founded by the Bishop of St. Andrews. The -church here, like that at St. Andrews, was dedicated to St. Mary. The -Culdees first appear at Monymusk in 1170, and it is said that Gilchrist, -Earl of Mar (1199-1207), built them a convent on condition<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216">{216}</a></span> that they -should subject themselves to canonical rule. Disputes having arisen -between the Culdees and the Bishop of St. Andrews, an arrangement was -finally come to, by which the Keledei were allowed to retain their lands -and dues, they promising to do nothing to the prejudice of the church of -St. Andrews or the parish church of Monymusk. They were thus brought -under the more direct control of the Bishop who is called the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_184" id="fig_184"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_216.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_216.png" width="321" height="402" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 184.</span>—Monymusk Church. View from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">founder of their house, and they were thus assimilated to the state into -which the Keledei of St. Andrews had been brought. Like them, they -consisted of a prior or head, with twelve members, and, like them, were -excluded from all parochial functions. In 1245 the Keledei of Monymusk -had entirely disappeared, and instead we have a confirmation by Pope -Innocent II. to the “prior and convent of Monymusk of the Order of St. -Augustine.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217">{217}</a></span>”</p> - -<p>The remains of the ancient Norman church establish the antiquity of the -foundation. These consist of the lower part of the tower and the chancel -arch. The church, as it now stands (<a href="#fig_183">Fig. 183</a>), is a plain oblong modern -structure 45 feet in length by 20 feet 3 inches in width internally, -with a north wing or aisle, and galleries in the north, west, and east -divisions entered from outside stairs. The ancient tower at the west end -and the ancient chancel arch at the east end clearly fix the length of -the original structure, and the modern side walls probably mark the -position of the original side walls. To the east of the chancel arch -there is an apartment about 15 feet square, used as a vestry, and in -continuation of this structure to the eastward are the roofless walls of -a building 34 feet in length. This enclosure is used as a burial-place. -It has a modern doorway in the north wall, and all the walls are so -covered with ivy that no traces of ancient work, if such exist, can be -discovered.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_185" id="fig_185"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_217.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_217.png" width="407" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 185.</span>—Monymusk Church. Chancel Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The west tower (<a href="#fig_184">Fig. 184</a>) is 22 feet by 23 feet externally. It appears -to have been almost entirely rebuilt, except the doorway in the west -wall, which seems to be ancient. It has plain square jambs and round -arch head, with hood mould enclosing the arch stones. The opening in the -west wall of the tower leading into the church has been by a round -archway 9 feet in width, now built up. This wall has been much altered, -but there appear to have been Norman imposts to the arch. The chancel -arch (<a href="#fig_185">Fig. 185</a>) is 8 feet 6 inches wide. It has had a large attached -centre<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218">{218}</a></span> shaft and two smaller side shafts in each jamb. The north centre -shaft has been removed and a wooden substitute introduced. The shafts -have all had Norman caps of the cushion pattern (see enlarged sketch in -<a href="#fig_185">Fig. 185.</a>), but they are now so battered as to be scarcely -distinguishable. The arch is much concealed under the east gallery. To -the right of it is a monumental tablet of the seventeenth century, which -bears the arms of Leslie and Forbes impaled.</p> - -<p>From the style of the architecture of the Norman remains, it seems most -probable that they form part of the convent erected by the Earl of Mar -in the beginning of the thirteenth century.</p> - -<h3>ST. BRANDON’S, <span class="smcap">Birnie, Morayshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Birnie is believed to have been the original seat of the Bishop of Moray -before he migrated, in the first place, to Kineddar, then to Spynie, and -finally to Elgin. Simeon, the fourth Bishop, was buried here in 1184. -The church is situated about three miles south from Elgin, near the -river Lossie, and the road to it from Elgin passes through a pleasant, -well cultivated country, diversified with numerous undulations and -woods.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_186" id="fig_186"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_218.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_218.png" width="282" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 186.</span>—Birnie Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The church, which is dedicated to St. Brandon, stands on the top of a -small alluvial hill and is conspicuous from a distance. It is evidently -ancient, and, although perfectly plain externally, impresses one at -sight, from the nature of its masonry, as being of Norman workmanship. -The stone work is all of square dressed freestone ashlar, both -externally and internally. The west wall was rebuilt in 1734 (the date -on the belfry), when the church was shortened by a few feet, and -although the old materials were reused, the inferiority of the new -workmanship to the old is very apparent.</p> - -<p>As it now stands, the edifice (<a href="#fig_186">Fig. 186</a>) consists of nave and chancel, -without aisles. The former measures 42 feet long by 18 feet 6 inches -wide internally, and the latter is 16 feet long by 13 feet wide. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219">{219}</a></span> -nave has a doorway in the south wall, and another immediately opposite -it in the north wall. The chancel has a small round-headed window in -each of the north and south walls, and it is remarkable that there is no -window in the east wall. There is also a doorway in the south wall of -the chancel, which has evidently been added or enlarged at a -comparatively late period. Every part of the building, both externally -and internally, is perfectly plain. The only portion which presents the -smallest approach to ornament is the chancel arch (<a href="#fig_187">Fig. 187</a>). The -opening is 7 feet 6 inches in width, and is flanked at each side by a -substantial semi-circular attached shaft, which has a moulded base and a -heavy Norman cap of the pattern founded on the cushion, with</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_187" id="fig_187"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_219.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_219.png" width="262" height="297" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 187.</span>—Birnie Church. Chancel Arch and Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">numerous subdivisions. The upper part of the cap has also a small -stepped ornament, similar to what exists at Jedburgh and elsewhere. The -square abacus of the caps carries an arch which forms one square order, -and the angles of the jambs support another square order on each side of -the first. The architecture, though simple, is good, and, together with -the chancel arch, indicates a rather advanced date in the Norman period, -probably towards the end of the twelfth century. Within the chancel arch -there stands a very interesting relic of Norman design, probably of -older date than the church. This is the stone font, the upper part of -which consists of a semi-hemispherical stone basin, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220">{220}</a></span> portions cut -off vertically, like a cushion cap, while the top plinth has small -portions at the angles cut off, thus making it an irregular octagon. The -pedestal on which the basin rests is circular, and is fluted with small -spirals passing round it. This, we understand, was supplied recently.</p> - -<p>The church also contains a very rare and interesting specimen of the -ancient square shaped Celtic bell, which may possibly indicate that the -present church was preceded by a Celtic monastery, of which this is a -relic, but of which no record remains.</p> - -<h3>ST. ORAN’S CHAPEL, <span class="smcap">Iona, Argyllshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>St. Oran’s Chapel is the name given to a small edifice which stands in -the ancient burial-ground situated a short distance south-west from the -cathedral. The name of the churchyard is “Relig Oran,” being so called -from Oran, one of St. Columba’s companions, who was probably the first -of his followers who died on the island.</p> - -<p>As stated in the Introduction,<a name="FNanchor_153_153" id="FNanchor_153_153"></a><a href="#Footnote_153_153" class="fnanchor">[153]</a> this chapel is supposed by Dr. -Reeves to have been built by Queen Margaret about 1074. The chapel (<a href="#fig_188">Fig. -188</a>) is a plain oblong, 30 feet long by 16 feet wide internally. As -often happens in West Highland chapels, there is no window in the east -wall.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_188" id="fig_188"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_220.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_220.png" width="185" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 188.</span>—St. Oran’s Chapel. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The only light was obtained from two narrow windows near the east end, -one in the north and the other in the south wall, immediately opposite -one another.</p> - -<p>The entrance doorway (<a href="#fig_189">Fig. 189</a>) is in the west wall. It is more -elaborate than most of the West Highland chapels, having (<a href="#fig_190">Fig. 190</a>) two -nook shafts on each side with plain cushion caps, surmounted by a -semi-circular arch in two orders with a label, all of which have been -elaborately carved with Norman enrichments. Those of the label consist -of a series of round and rather pointed knobs. The outer order seems to -have been carved with a bird’s head ornament, and the inner order with a -kind of chevron. All the carved work, however, is greatly decayed by -exposure to the weather. The building has a gable at each end, and has -had a wooden<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221">{221}</a></span> roof. In the interior of the south wall a somewhat -elaborate monument (<a href="#fig_191">Fig. 191</a>) has been inserted, which, from its style, -is evidently of late date. The canopy consists of two orders, one of an -ogee form, with weather table, which has been ornamented with crockets, -and has a crucifixion introduced in the pinnacle at the top of the arch. -The label terminations at each side</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_189" id="fig_189"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_221.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_221.png" width="411" height="435" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 189.</span>—St. Oran’s Chapel. View from West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">consist of animals like lions of an exaggerated size. The inner arch has -a large cusp which has been filled with Celtic carved scroll work, but -it is now much decayed. A broken piscina stands at the west side of the -monument. A number of very interesting and finely carved Celtic -monumental slabs are preserved in the chapel, and a great many more, -some of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222">{222}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_190" id="fig_190"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_222.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_222.png" width="438" height="587" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 190.</span>—St. Oran’s Chapel. West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_223" id="page_223">{223}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">them said to be the monuments of Scottish, Irish, and Norwegian kings, -lie exposed in the churchyard, and are gradually wasting away. They are -all elaborately carved with the floral ornament peculiar to this part of -the country, while some also contain the dog-tooth ornament, which was -revived here at a late date. This will be further referred to in -connection with Iona Cathedral.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_191" id="fig_191"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_223.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_223.png" width="402" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 191.</span>—St. Oran’s Chapel. Monument.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Mr. Romilly Allen has shown that the Norman carved work in England was -executed between 1135 and 1190, and that hardly any carving exists on -churches of an earlier date. It could, therefore, not be looked for here -till towards the end of the twelfth century. The carved work in the west -doorway of the chapel, being of a somewhat advanced character of -ornament, can, therefore, scarcely be earlier than about the beginning -of the thirteenth century.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_224" id="page_224">{224}</a></span></p> - -<h3>THE CHAPEL IN EDINBURGH CASTLE, KNOWN AS “ST. MARGARET’S CHAPEL.”</h3> - -<p>When treating of Edinburgh Castle in the <i>Castellated and Domestic -Architecture of Scotland</i>,<a name="FNanchor_154_154" id="FNanchor_154_154"></a><a href="#Footnote_154_154" class="fnanchor">[154]</a> this chapel was briefly described and -illustrated; but it has been thought of sufficient importance to be -included in this volume, with additional illustrations<a name="FNanchor_155_155" id="FNanchor_155_155"></a><a href="#Footnote_155_155" class="fnanchor">[155]</a> and -descriptive matter.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_192" id="fig_192"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_224.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_224.png" height="445" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 192.</span>—St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. Plan -and Sections.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_225" id="page_225">{225}</a></span></p> - -<p>The exterior walls of the chapel (<a href="#fig_192">Fig. 192</a>) form an oblong, measuring 31 -feet 7 inches from east to west, by 16 feet in width at the east end and -14 feet 4 inches at the west end. The angles of the structure are thus -not right angles. Although the building is extremely simple in its -external aspect, it is more ornamental and of a more developed form of -plan in the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_193" id="fig_193"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_225.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_225.png" height="425" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 193.</span>—St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. -Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">interior. The plan comprises a nave with a chancel arch, and a chancel -which has a round apse formed within the square east end of the -exterior. The nave is 15 feet 10 inches long by 10 feet 4 inches and 9 -feet 9 inches wide at the east and west ends respectively. The chancel -is 9 feet 7½ inches long, and the same width at the west end. The total -interior<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_226" id="page_226">{226}</a></span> length is 27 feet 4½ inches. The nave is waggon vaulted, -without ribs; and the apse is roofed with a vault forming the quadrant -of a dome. The nave vault is about 10 feet 8 inches high. (See sections, -Fig. 192.)</p> - -<p>The chapel stands on the extreme summit of the Castle rock, and the rock -which is seen rising against it on all sides, except the north (on which -side the level outside is nearly the same as that of the floor), has, it -is understood, in recent years been partially cut away on the south, -east, and west sides. (<a href="#fig_193">Fig. 193.</a>) This operation has to be kept in view -in considering the masonry of the exterior walls, for on those three -sides there has necessarily been a certain amount of underbuilding, -which is consequently of a much more modern character than Norman -masonry.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_194" id="fig_194"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_226.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_226.png" width="403" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 194.</span>—St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. View -from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The genuine surviving Norman masonry begins below the line of the south -windows (see <a href="#fig_194">Fig. 194.</a>). The first two or three courses, which extend up -to the sills of the south windows, are built of reddish stone, above -which are five courses of a bluish grey stone, the upper course being -above the windows. All the masonry above that level on the south and -north sides is later work.</p> - -<p>The masonry of the north and east sides has been greatly interfered -with, as has also that of the west end, where, however, there are -several consecutive Norman courses. The east wall appears to have been -carried to a greater height than the other walls (<a href="#fig_194">Fig. 194</a>), as if some -higher building had been attached to the chapel.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_227" id="page_227">{227}</a></span></p> - -<p>The alterations above referred to show that the side and end walls have -been raised, and we have no doubt that the upper part of the west gable -above the window, with the ridge course, is modern, or at least of a -date long subsequent to the original building.</p> - -<p>The present porch in front of the entrance door on the north side, near -the west end, is quite modern, although the doorway itself is ancient. A</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_195" id="fig_195"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_227.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_227.png" width="418" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 195.</span>—St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. -Elevation of Chancel Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">square-headed doorway, with splayed opening, has, possibly in the -sixteenth or seventeenth centuries, been cut through the west wall (see -<a href="#fig_194">Fig. 194.</a>). There are indications of a narrow doorway having formerly -opened into the chancel on the north side. It is now built up, and forms -an ambry on the inside. (See <a href="#fig_192">Fig. 192.</a>)</p> - -<p>There are three windows in the south wall, one of them being in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_228" id="page_228">{228}</a></span> -chancel. There is also a window in each of the end walls, the one in the -west end being at a considerably higher level than the other (see <a href="#fig_194">Fig. -194.</a>). All the windows are splayed widely on the inside, and slightly so -on the outside, and they are round arched. They are all about 8 inches -wide by about 2 feet high. The two westmost windows in the south</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_196" id="fig_196"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_228.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_228.png" height="442" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 196.</span>—St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. -Chancel Arch Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">wall, and the high window in the west gable, give light to the nave; the -east window in the south wall, and that in the east wall, light the -chancel, the former being in the south side, and the latter in the -centre of the circular apse.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_229" id="page_229">{229}</a></span></p> - -<p>There is a locker on the north side of the chancel, and a piscina -projects, without any recess in the wall, from the south side. This -piscina</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_197" id="fig_197"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_229.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_229.png" height="509" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 197.</span>—St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. -Chancel Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">has a very new look, as if it had been rewrought or renewed; but we have -no reason to doubt but that it faithfully represents the original -piscina. It has the usual drain.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_230" id="page_230">{230}</a></span></p> - -<p>The chancel arch (<a href="#fig_195">Fig. 195</a>), while quite in proportion to the chapel, is -little larger than an ordinary doorway. Its opening measures 5 feet 1 -inch wide by 6 feet 4 inches to the springing of the arch, and 9 feet in -height, measuring from the nave floor to the soffit of the arch, and -there is a step up to the chancel. Each jamb (<a href="#fig_196">Fig. 196</a>) has two -monolithic shafts, set in nooks, with cushion cups. The arch, which is -in two corresponding orders, is decorated with the ordinary chevron -design. (<a href="#fig_197">Fig. 197.</a>) Enclosing the arch is a label moulding, enriched -with a lozenge pattern. The arch on the chancel side is quite plain.</p> - -<p>The arched roof of the nave, which is built with carefully-dressed -stones, seems to be of a later date than the walls, the masonry being -finer, and of a different and lighter coloured stone.</p> - -<p>The existence of this chapel was long lost sight of, till the late Sir -Daniel Wilson, in the course of his explorations in Old Edinburgh, -discovered the true nature of the building. He thinks that it is in all -probability the chapel used by Queen Margaret during her residence in -the Castle before her death in 1093, and that it is probably the most -ancient chapel in Scotland. It does not, however, appear to be a very -early specimen of Norman work, but rather a fairly-advanced example of -the style, both in plan and decoration. Had the chapel been erected in -the eleventh century, it would certainly have been of a much ruder style -of architecture. No Norman building of that period can be shown to exist -in Scotland. Sir Daniel supposes it to be earlier than the Norman part -of Holyrood, which was founded in 1128; though probably no part was -erected till a considerable time thereafter. Now, the doorway on the -south side of Holyrood (the only Norman portion of that building -remaining) is not unlike the chancel arch here. The caps of the shafts, -the chevron decoration of the arches, and the enriched label are all -similar in design, and there is no reason whatever for supposing the one -to be older than the other.</p> - -<p>After the chapel was discovered, it was intended to be used for its -original purpose; a font was gifted to it, and the windows were filled -with stained glass. It has now, however, degenerated into a shop for the -sale of nicknacks to tourists.</p> - -<h3>DUNFERMLINE ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Situated north of the Forth, or “Scots Water,” in the heart of the old -Pictish kingdom, Dunfermline was from an early period occupied as a -secure and pleasant site by the kings of Scotland. Here Malcolm Canmore -had his tower (of which a few crumbling remains still survive), and here -he entertained the royal fugitives from England, and married the -Princess Margaret, one of these refugees, in 1070.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_231" id="page_231">{231}</a></span></p> - -<p>The King and Queen ended their lives in 1093, within a few days of each -other—the first at the siege of Alnwick, and the other in Edinburgh -Castle.</p> - -<p>According to Turgot, her confessor and biographer, Queen Margaret, -immediately after her marriage, founded a church “in that place where -the nuptials were celebrated.” This church was dedicated to the Holy -Trinity in 1074. It became the place of royal sepulture, and Queen -Margaret was buried there a few days after her death. From that time -onwards there are continuous references to grants to the Church of the -Holy Trinity, and to interments of royal personages therein.</p> - -<p>As no notice has been preserved of the erection of any new church till -the building of the choir in the first quarter of the thirteenth -century, it has been supposed that the nave of the existing structure -(which is in the Norman style) may have been the church founded and -erected by Queen Margaret. But the style of the building forbids this -supposition. None of the English cathedrals were founded till the end of -the eleventh century, and few were carried out till the expiry of the -first quarter of the twelfth century. Scotland would certainly not be in -advance of England in its style of architecture, and we know that -little, if any, Norman work was executed in this country till the days -of David <small>I.</small> Professor Innes is, therefore, no doubt right when he -says—“The original church of Canmore, perhaps not of stone, must have -been replaced by a new edifice when it was dedicated in the reign of -David <small>I.</small>”<a name="FNanchor_156_156" id="FNanchor_156_156"></a><a href="#Footnote_156_156" class="fnanchor">[156]</a> The style of the structure is early Norman, and would -naturally follow the erection of Durham Cathedral, which took place -about twenty-five years earlier.</p> - -<p>Probably the original church of Malcolm stood where the new choir was -afterwards erected, and David <small>I.</small> added the Norman nave to it. The nature -of the site seems to favour this view, as the ground to the west slopes -rapidly away, and scarcely allows room for the west end of the nave; -while the conventual buildings, for want of suitable space, have had to -be carried with an archway over a public street.</p> - -<p>It is believed that Alexander <small>I.</small> contemplated the erection of the church -into an abbey, and had possibly made arrangements for the introduction -of monks. At any rate, in the year of the accession of his successor, -David <small>I.</small> (1124), canons of the Order of St. Augustine were brought from -Canterbury and established at Dunfermline.</p> - -<p>It was, no doubt, soon after that event that David <small>I.</small> carried out -extensive works at the new monastery, and probably added the Norman nave -to the then existing church of his parents, Margaret and Malcolm. The -monastery continued to flourish, and was largely endowed. The early -church was soon found to be too small, and it was resolved to rebuild -it, so as to form a new choir and transept worthy of the dignity<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_232" id="page_232">{232}</a></span> and -importance of the convent. This was accordingly carried out between 1216 -and 1226, when the choir, with its aisles, the transept, and the -presbytery were erected. Abbot Patrick, who had formerly been Dean</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_198" id="fig_198"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_232.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_232.png" width="513" height="480" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 198.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and Prior of Canterbury, presided at Dunfermline during the whole of the -above time. After him came Abbot William (<small>II.</small>), whom we find appealing -to Pope Honorius <small>III.</small> for certain patronages and presentations<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_233" id="page_233">{233}</a></span> on -account of the great expense incurred during the last ten years in -carrying on the extended fabric, whereby the monastery had been greatly -impoverished. Again, in 1231, a similar appeal was made to Pope Gregory -<small>IX.</small>, both on account of the expenses of the church,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_199" id="fig_199"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_233.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_233.png" width="418" height="381" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 199.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Plan of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and also because the number of canons had been increased from thirty to -fifty.</p> - -<p>In 1249 a dispute arose regarding the consecration of the new choir, but -Honorius <small>IV.</small> decided that a new consecration was not necessary, as the -consecrated walls of the older part (the nave) continued in use. In the -same year Queen Margaret was canonised, and in 1250 her<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_234" id="page_234">{234}</a></span> body was -transferred from the old church to the new Lady Chapel, in presence of -all the chief men in the kingdom. “The translation of the saintly -foundress was probably arranged,” says Professor Innes, “to give -solemnity to the opening of the new church.”<a name="FNanchor_157_157" id="FNanchor_157_157"></a><a href="#Footnote_157_157" class="fnanchor">[157]</a> Soon after this the -abbey is described by Matthew of Westminster, who probably saw it, as of -vast extent, and containing such magnificent palaces that three kings, -with their trains, might be accommodated within its walls.</p> - -<p>“This sumptuous pile was destroyed and levelled with the ground by the -soldiers of Edward in 1303, excepting only the church and a few -dwellings for the monks.”<a name="FNanchor_158_158" id="FNanchor_158_158"></a><a href="#Footnote_158_158" class="fnanchor">[158]</a></p> - -<p>The Exchequer Rolls inform us of the great expense sometimes incurred in -connection with the tombs of the illustrious persons buried in the -abbey.<a name="FNanchor_159_159" id="FNanchor_159_159"></a><a href="#Footnote_159_159" class="fnanchor">[159]</a></p> - -<p>The monastic buildings were, as we have seen, on a very magnificent -scale; but of the church, and all the splendid structures connected with -the abbey, there now only remain (<a href="#fig_198">Fig. 198</a>) the Norman nave, the base of -the Lady Chapel, and part of the refectory and kitchen.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_200" id="fig_200"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_234.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_234.png" height="124" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 200.</span>—Nave Piers and Wall Responds.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The nave (<a href="#fig_199">Fig. 199</a>), which is wonderfully well preserved, measures about -106 feet long inside, by about 55 feet wide between the aisle walls. The -piers are circular, and measure 4 feet 4½ inches in diameter. The plan -of these, with that of the wall responds (<a href="#fig_200">Fig. 200</a>), indicates that the -original intention (which was carried out) was to groin the aisles. The -two eastern bays between the eastern pillars are built up with solid -masonry, and only a portion of the arches is seen. The original respond -at the east gable wall, against which these arches rested, has long -since disappeared, in connection with the erection of the later church.</p> - -<p>The two western bays, and the triforium arches above them (one on each -side), have also been filled up with solid building in order to -strengthen the western towers. The southern of these arches is shown in -Fig. 201. The pillars which support the west towers are of greater size -than the others, and are of a different section. One of the pillars and -the corresponding arch of the north arcade are of late Gothic work, and -may be part of the repairs ordered by the Privy Council in 1563,<a name="FNanchor_160_160" id="FNanchor_160_160"></a><a href="#Footnote_160_160" class="fnanchor">[160]</a> or -of the work done in 1594, under the direction of William Schaw, Master -of Works, who at that time built the north-west tower and steeple<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_235" id="page_235">{235}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_201" id="fig_201"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_235.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_235.png" width="445" height="590" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 201.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Interior of West End of -Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_236" id="page_236">{236}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_202" id="fig_202"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_236.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_236.png" width="403" height="626" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 202.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_237" id="page_237">{237}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_203" id="fig_203"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_237.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_237.png" width="419" height="553" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 203.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. North Porch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_238" id="page_238">{238}</a></span></p> - -<p>(<a href="#fig_202">Fig. 202</a>), as well as the porch on the north side of the nave (<a href="#fig_203">Fig. -203</a>). At the same time, also, certain great buttresses (<a href="#fig_204">Fig. 204</a>) were -built against the outer walls, which are now conspicuous features of the -structure.</p> - -<p>The great western doorway of the church (<a href="#fig_205">Fig. 205</a>) remains unaltered, -and is a good example of Norman work. It consists of five orders, having -round and octagonal shafts alternately, chiefly with cushion caps, but -some are ornamented with scrolls (<a href="#fig_206">Fig. 206</a>). The abacus is heavy, and is -carved with sunk diapers. The orders are continued round the arches, and -contain chevron ornaments (much decayed), rosettes, and diapers. The -outer order contains large heads and geometric figures in the alternate -voussoirs, an arrangement similar to that at Dalmeny and Whithorn, where -also the geometric figures resemble those adopted here. The original -north doorway (<a href="#fig_207">Fig. 207</a>), which is partly concealed by Schaw’s porch, is -similar in design, with the addition of an arcade above the arch (see -<a href="#fig_203">Fig. 203.</a>), somewhat resembling, but plainer than that over the doorway -of Dalmeny Church, on the south side of the Forth. The south doorway of -the church on the opposite side from the porch is a late work. There -appears to have been another south doorway at the east end of the nave, -but it is now built up. The whole of the aisle walls are arcaded in the -interior (<a href="#fig_208">Fig. 208</a>) up to the height of the window sills, but the arcade -has been partly cut away for monuments.</p> - -<p>The general design of the nave recalls that of Durham Cathedral, at the -founding of which King Malcolm Canmore was present. The same circular -piers, with zig-zag ornaments and massive cushion caps, and also -clustered piers, occur in each (<a href="#fig_209">Fig. 209</a>), and the small circular bases, -resting on great square plinths, are common to both (see also p. 37, -<a href="#fig_18">Fig. 18.</a>). The arches between the main piers (<a href="#fig_210">Fig. 210</a>) consist of bold -mouldings, with the label ornament running round the outer moulding. The -triforium at Dunfermline is extremely simple (<a href="#fig_211">Fig. 211</a>), consisting of a -single opening with plain jambs and round arch, with a large roll and -fillet in the centre of the thickness of the wall, supported on single -attached shafts with cushion caps. The clerestory is also very simple. -It contains one window in each bay, with plain recessed arch, supported -on single shafts with cushion caps. The aisles (<a href="#fig_212">Fig. 212</a>) are vaulted -and groined. The transverse arches are flat, with a roll on each side, -and the diagonal groins spring from the detached shafts of the responds -(see <a href="#fig_208">Fig. 208.</a>). The windows of the aisles (see <a href="#fig_209">Fig. 209.</a>) are single -round-headed lights, having plain sconsions with one recessed shaft on -each side, and the arch enriched with chevron mouldings. Externally -(<a href="#fig_213">Fig. 213</a>) they are of similar design.</p> - -<p><a href="#fig_208">Fig. 208</a> shows the wall shafting and springing of the ribs in the -aisles, and the mouldings of the nave arcade, with the arcading beneath -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_239" id="page_239">{239}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_204" id="fig_204"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_239.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_239.png" width="428" height="644" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 204.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Part of North Side.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_240" id="page_240">{240}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_205" id="fig_205"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_240.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_240.png" width="421" height="606" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 205.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Western Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_241" id="page_241">{241}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">windows. It also shows the original aisle windows on the inside, while -<a href="#fig_213">Fig. 213</a> shows their appearance on the exterior. It will be observed in -the latter that there is the same sunk or label ornament on the -drip-stone as there is over the arches of the main arcade. Above the -aisle window (see the same Fig.) are the lights of the triforium -gallery. These have triangular heads, formed by two stones. They appear -to have been rounded or moulded on the edge, and spring from sunk shafts -having carved capitals. They are now very much decayed, and have all -been restored except two on the north side.</p> - -<p>Judging from the existence of the large west end pillars already -referred to, it was evidently intended from the beginning to have two -western towers. The northern one</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_206" id="fig_206"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_241.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_241.png" width="190" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 206.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. From North Side of Western -Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">was destroyed to a considerable extent at the Reformation,<a name="FNanchor_161_161" id="FNanchor_161_161"></a><a href="#Footnote_161_161" class="fnanchor">[161]</a> along -with the upper part of the adjoining gable. In its present state it was -designed and built by William Schaw, and is a very effective example of -the architecture of his time (see Figs. 202 and 204). The bold -corbelling at the top of the tower recalls the somewhat similar -treatment of the towers of St. Machar’s, Aberdeen, and other examples -derived from domestic architecture. The south-west tower appears to have -escaped the fury of the Reformers, and to have remained intact, although -in a ruinous state, till 1807, when it fell, having been struck by -lightning. Three years later the present top was put on the old walls. -The Lady Chapel at the east end, built to receive Queen Margaret’s -shrine, is now reduced to a small fragment (see Plan), consisting of -part of the south and east walls, which remain to the height of about 2 -or 3 feet. It has been a small structure of about 26 feet 9 inches by 22 -feet, of delicate and refined first pointed work, as is apparent from -the bases of the wall arcading and the edge of the surrounding seat, -enriched with nail-head ornaments, which still exist (<a href="#fig_214">Fig. 214</a>). The -Lady Chapel appears from an old view<a name="FNanchor_162_162" id="FNanchor_162_162"></a><a href="#Footnote_162_162" class="fnanchor">[162]</a> to have been a low structure, -reaching only to the sill of the great east window of the choir, and it -was evidently vaulted in two compartments.</p> - -<p>Of the choir of the thirteenth century (shown on the Ground Plan, see -<a href="#fig_198">Fig. 198.</a>) not a single stone exists, having been removed to make room -for a modern church; but before the latter was built (begun in 1818), -considerable remains of the choir and apparently the whole of the -foundations were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_242" id="page_242">{242}</a></span> standing. These ruins were measured and drawn by Mr. -J. Baine, C.E., Edinburgh, in 1790, and by the Rev. Mr. Syme in 1805. -From their</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_207" id="fig_207"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_242.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_242.png" width="452" height="566" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 207.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Northern Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_243" id="page_243">{243}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">labours the author of the <i>Annals</i> (Mr. E. Henderson) made a complete -plan of the church in 1827, and from it the ground plan of the choir now</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_208" id="fig_208"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_243.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_243.png" height="478" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 208.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">given has been filled in.<a name="FNanchor_163_163" id="FNanchor_163_163"></a><a href="#Footnote_163_163" class="fnanchor">[163]</a> The choir was a prolongation of the -present nave, having transepts, and also a great aisle on the north -side, the walls of which latter remained till this century. There was a -lofty central tower<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_244" id="page_244">{244}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_209" id="fig_209"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_244.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_244.png" width="647" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 209.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. View of Nave looking -West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_245" id="page_245">{245}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">of two stories, with three windows in each story facing the four sides. -Altogether this church must have been a magnificent structure, and was -adorned with many altars and shrines. It was to that part of the church -specially that the zeal of the Reforming party was directed, when upon -the 28th March 1560, “the wholl lordis and barnis that were on thys syde -of Forth, passed to Stirling, and be the way kest doun the Abbey of -Dunfermling.”—(Lindsay, <i>Chronicle of Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 555.)</p> - -<p>The interior length of the whole church from the west doorway to the -Lady Chapel at the east end is 268 feet 6 inches, and the length of the -exterior is 280 feet.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_210" id="fig_210"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_245.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_245.png" height="239" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 210.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The edifice occupies a lofty and commanding situation, from which the -ground falls away on the west and south sides. The monastic buildings -stood on the south side of the nave at a considerably lower level than -the church. Of these structures, as is shown by the dark walls on the -Plan, considerable remains still exist. The ground between the dark -walls and the church has, in recent years, been levelled up, the outer -portions of the monastic buildings serving as retaining walls. With the -exception of these outer walls, the site of the monastery is thus -buried. The refectory stood on the south side of the cloister, and the -whole length and height of its south and west walls still exist. There -is also a small portion of the return of its north wall, adjoining the -west gable wall. Indications of its east wall also exist, thus enabling -its dimensions to be fixed at 103 feet in length by 34 feet in width. -The south wall (<a href="#fig_215">Fig. 215</a>) was divided into seven bays, and in six of -these there are lofty two-light windows (<a href="#fig_216">Fig. 216</a>). The eastern bay is -occupied by the pulpit or reading-place, from which one of the brethren -read aloud during meals. This place, which occupies the whole of one -bay, is about 15 feet long, and is corbelled outwards on a cusped arch -(see <a href="#fig_215">Fig. 215.</a>) about 4 feet 6 inches wide. It is lighted from the -outside by two windows, which have mullions and tracery, still entire, -flush with the face of the wall. On the side next the hall there are two -lofty openings.</p> - -<p>Adjoining the refectory on the south-west is a large tower, beneath -which runs a public road, called St. Catherine’s Wynd, through a “pend<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_246" id="page_246">{246}</a></span>” -or archway, whence the building is called the “Pend Tower.” The outside -of the refectory and “Pend Tower” (see <a href="#fig_216">Fig. 216.</a>) is very</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_211" id="fig_211"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_246.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_246.png" height="575" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 211.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Triforium and Clerestory.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_247" id="page_247">{247}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">imposing, with the simple row of lofty buttresses and windows along the -top. The west gable wall of the refectory (<a href="#fig_217">Fig. 217</a>) is still entire, -and has a large window of seven lights. The tracery of this</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_212" id="fig_212"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_247.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_247.png" width="426" height="540" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 212.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. North Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_248" id="page_248">{248}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">window is in good preservation (<a href="#fig_218">Fig. 218</a>), and is one of the most -favourable examples of a kind of tracery developed in Scotland during -the fifteenth century. At the north-west corner of the refectory is the -staircase tower (see <a href="#fig_217">Fig. 217.</a>), which leads down to the offices below, -and upwards to the refectory roof, over which access was obtained to the -upper</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_213" id="fig_213"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_248.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_248.png" height="411" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 213.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Exterior of Aisle and -Clerestory Windows.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">story of the “Pend Tower.” In the north wall of the refectory, near the -west end, are the remains of a flue, which may have belonged to a -fireplace. The “Pend Tower” is still entire, wanting only the cape house -and roof. It served as a connecting passage between the abbey buildings -and the royal palace beyond. A door led from the refectory (see Plan, -<a href="#fig_219">Fig. 219.</a>) by a passage into a groined chamber, and from thence into a -room<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_249" id="page_249">{249}</a></span> in the palace situated over the kitchen. The kitchen is a lofty -room, now roofless, having remains of large fireplaces and some curious -recesses. Below the kitchen, but entering from another part of the -palace, there is a large vaulted apartment with central pillars. (<a href="#fig_220">Fig. -220.</a>) These pillars were continued up through the kitchen, and probably -to the room, now gone, which stood over the kitchen. Another arched -passage led from this apartment through below St. Catherine’s Wynd and -up to the monastery. The building known as the palace was, doubtless, -intimately connected with the monastery, and the kitchen shown on the -plan may have been used in connection with both.</p> - -<p>Returning to the vaulted chamber in the “Pend Tower,” a long narrow -vaulted passage leads from it along the refectory wall for the length of -two bays. It is vaulted across from side to side for the length of the -first bay, and then in the second bay one half-arch springs at right</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_214" id="fig_214"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_249.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_249.png" width="292" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 214.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. The Lady Chapel.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">angles to the first arch from the end of the passage to meet the cross -vault. This probably indicates that steps lead down in the passage to -the level of the rooms below the refectory. But the place cannot be -properly seen, being chocked full with the grass and rubbish thrown in -from the churchyard. This passage is a very effective feature, as seen -from the outside. It is supported on arches thrown from buttress to -buttress, and is covered with a stone roof above (see <a href="#fig_216">Fig. 216.</a>).</p> - -<p>Within the “Pend Tower,” on the first floor, there is a five-sided room -with a fireplace, which appears to have been a sort of guard room. It is -vaulted, and has ribs irregularly placed, as shown on plan. This part of -the ruins is now a receptacle for rubbish, and is almost blocked up. -Over this, and entering from the circular stair adjoining, is the room -shown in Fig. 221. It is groin vaulted, and had a fireplace of good -design. To save this “Pend Tower,” with its fine vaulted apartments,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_250" id="page_250">{250}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_215" id="fig_215"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_250.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_250.png" width="587" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 215.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. South Wall of Refectory.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_251" id="page_251">{251}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">a proper roof ought to be placed over it. Beneath the tower is the -“Pend” or archway uniting St. Catherine’s Wynd and Monastery Street.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_216" id="fig_216"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_251.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_251.png" width="425" height="565" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 216.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. The “Pend Tower” and part -of Refectory.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The above passage and staircase are additions made, without doubt, at -the time when the tower was built. This is clearly seen in Fig. 216.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_252" id="page_252">{252}</a></span> -From this drawing it is obvious that the arches were thrown between the -already existing buttresses of the refectory, and in the second bay the -arch is at a low level to permit of the descending stair already -referred to. The builders have just managed to save a very beautiful -doorway</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_217" id="fig_217"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_252.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_252.png" height="485" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 217.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. West End of Refectory.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">belonging to the earlier building, now hardly seen in the shadow of the -overhanging addition.</p> - -<p>To the east of the refectory there is a narrow chamber with the remains -of a two-light window in the south wall, and projecting south<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_253" id="page_253">{253}</a></span>wards from -this is the lower part of the wall of the fratery reaching as high as -the floor of the refectory. On the east side of the fratery extends</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_218" id="fig_218"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_253.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_253.png" width="426" height="568" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 218.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Interior of West Window of -Refectory.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_254" id="page_254">{254}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the south wall of a building called, on the plan, the Bailery Prison. -These fragmentary structures exhaust the remains of the monastic</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_219" id="fig_219"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_254.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_254.png" height="440" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 219.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Plan of “Pend Tower,” &c.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">buildings. The chapterhouse, and the buildings on the east side of the -cloister (shown in outline on the plan), are taken from the old plan -already referred to, but their accuracy cannot be guaranteed.</p> - -<p>As already mentioned, the monastery was burned by Edward <small>I.</small> in 1303-4; -but, according to Tytler,<a name="FNanchor_164_164" id="FNanchor_164_164"></a><a href="#Footnote_164_164" class="fnanchor">[164]</a> the church escaped. Froissart, however, -narrates that in 1385 Richard <small>II.</small> burned the abbey and town. It is -impossible to say to what extent these devastations were carried, but we -doubt if any of the existing monastic buildings belong to an earlier -date than that last mentioned. Perhaps the south wall may be older, and -has been restored. The tracery of the refectory west window belongs to -the end of the fifteenth century. The “Pend Tower” was built after the -refectory was finished, as it abuts against the westmost buttress (as -seen in <a href="#fig_216">Fig. 216.</a>) in a way it would not have done had the whole been of -one construction; also, the corner buttress has been cut away, as may be -seen at the right-hand side of Fig. 221.</p> - -<p>William Schaw, Master of Works, besides the buildings already referred -to, erected, in 1594, certain of the immense buttresses which form such -conspicuous features in all the views of the abbey. He likewise built, -and doubtless designed, the Queen’s House, and the Bailie and -Constabulary House, shown in the plan. In connection with the latter -houses,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_255" id="page_255">{255}</a></span> there are considerable remains of buildings still existing (as -shown on Plan) to the north-west of the abbey, and there seems every -probability that they formed part of the structures of the abbey and of -the Queen’s House. They are extremely picturesque as seen from the low -ground to the west. (<a href="#fig_222">Fig. 222.</a>) The lofty house on the right hand dates -probably</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_220" id="fig_220"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_255.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_255.png" width="423" height="429" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 220.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Room below Kitchen.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">from the end of the seventeenth century, and is a fine example of its -period. The adjoining buildings are considerably earlier, and in the -lower parts, where they are buttressed, they are probably of -pre-Reformation times. The upper portions are somewhat later, and are -very likely part of the work of Schaw. The porch to the latter buildings -is on the other<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_256" id="page_256">{256}</a></span> side, and is quaint and well known from being seen from -the church. William Schaw died in 1602, and was buried in the nave, -where the monument to his memory (<a href="#fig_223">Fig. 223</a>) was erected by order of -Queen Anne.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_221" id="fig_221"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_256.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_256.png" width="447" height="505" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 221.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The palace, which was intimately connected with the abbey, has been -described elsewhere.<a name="FNanchor_165_165" id="FNanchor_165_165"></a><a href="#Footnote_165_165" class="fnanchor">[165]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_257" id="page_257">{257}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_222" id="fig_222"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_257.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_257.png" width="541" height="417" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 222.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Old Buildings to North-West -of Church.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_258" id="page_258">{258}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_223" id="fig_223"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_258.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_258.png" height="594" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 223.</span>—Dunfermline Abbey. Monument to William -Schaw.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_259" id="page_259">{259}</a></span></p> - -<h3>ST. MAGNUS’ CATHEDRAL, <span class="smcap">Kirkwall, Orkney</span>.</h3> - -<p>In approaching Kirkwall from the sea, the chief object which meets the -view is the great mass of the cathedral. The town gradually comes into -sight, with its harbour and quays; but attention is irresistibly fixed -on the huge church, which overtops everything else.</p> - -<p>When the quaint old streets, with the gables of the houses facing the -narrow roadway, are traversed, and the open space round the cathedral is -reached, the visitor’s admiration of the structure is by no means -diminished. He enters by one of three splendid doorways in the west end, -which recall the portals of the cathedrals of France rather than those -of England.</p> - -<p>The first view of the interior is striking and impressive. (<a href="#fig_224">Fig. 224.</a>) -The long perspective of the great round pillars and arches on each side -of the nave, surmounted by the round arched triforium and clerestory, -and the lofty roof covered with simple vaulting, give an impression of -size and height which is larger than is borne out by after measurement. -This appearance of great size has often been remarked of St. Magnus’, -and, no doubt, arises from the height and length of the edifice as -compared with its width, which between the piers is only 17 feet, while -the length of the nave is 111 feet, and the height to the apex of the -vault is about 50 feet. The cathedral is found to be complete in all its -great divisions. (<a href="#fig_225">Fig. 225</a>), Plan.)<a name="FNanchor_166_166" id="FNanchor_166_166"></a><a href="#Footnote_166_166" class="fnanchor">[166]</a> The nave has side aisles, which -are vaulted, and the side walls are arcaded with interlacing Norman -arches. The choir is, unfortunately, excluded by a glass screen from the -general view of the cathedral, owing to the east end being still used as -the parish church. The choir is of considerable length, being 85 feet 6 -inches long by 47 feet 6 inches wide, and has main piers, triforium, and -clerestory, of about the same height as the nave. It is also vaulted, -and has vaulted side aisles. The longitudinal section (<a href="#fig_226">Fig. 226</a>) shows -the comparative heights of the nave and choir.</p> - -<p>The transept is 90 feet long by 17 feet wide, and has a great appearance -of height, but is not vaulted. It has no aisles, but has a vaulted -chapel projected to the east from each division of the transept. <a href="#fig_227">Fig. -227</a> is a section through the transept from north to south.</p> - -<p>The choir contains six bays, and the nave eight bays.</p> - -<p>When the exterior is examined, it is found to present at a glance a -general history of the structure, and the changes which have taken place -in it. The layers and masses of the different coloured stones which have -been used in the edifice at different times tell their own tale.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260" id="page_260">{260}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_224" id="fig_224"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_260.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_260.png" height="635" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 224.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. The Nave, looking West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_261" id="page_261">{261}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_225" id="fig_225"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_261.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_261.png" width="615" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 225.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Ground Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_262" id="page_262">{262}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind"> <a href="#fig_228">Fig. -228</a> shows the north elevation of the whole cathedral.<a name="FNanchor_167_167" id="FNanchor_167_167"></a><a href="#Footnote_167_167" class="fnanchor">[167]</a> The oldest work -(which, however, comprises several periods) is constructed with dark -slaty stone, having red freestone dressings. This masonry comprises the -whole of the outer walls of the choir, the transept, and the greater -part of the nave. It is evident, however, that this style of masonry -includes not only much Norman work, with its round arches and flat -buttresses, but also some later work, which has pointed windows and -boldly-projected buttresses. The Norman work (<a href="#fig_228">Figs. 228</a> and <a href="#fig_229">229</a>) may be -observed in the transept, and several bays of the nave and choir nearest -the transept, while the pointed work is specially noticeable in the -eastern half of the choir.</p> - -<p>In the clerestory walls of the choir (<a href="#fig_230">Fig. 230</a>) great changes are -observable. The lower part of the wall, which contains the windows, is -built with dark red freestone, while the upper part is of whitish -freestone, clearly showing that the clerestory has been raised, together -with the parapet. The old line of the eaves is further apparent from the -row of Norman corbels which marks the original level before the wall was -raised. These corbels are specially visible on the north side of the -choir clerestory, but a few also remain on the south side. The new -corbel table under the parapet consists of corbels of well-known first -pointed form.</p> - -<p>Turning to the nave, it will be observed (see <a href="#fig_228">Fig. 228.</a>) that the whole -of the clerestory wall (except the two westmost bays) is built with -whitish freestone, while the windows are of small size and are pointed. -The clerestory of the nave thus corresponds with the raised part of that -of the choir in the stone used, but differs from it in the windows, -which are narrow. The parapet and corbel table of this part of the -building, and indeed throughout nearly the whole structure, are similar -to those of the choir, and in the later work have evidently been copied -from the earlier ones. In the transept the alterations are plainly seen -in the heightened portions of the north and south gables (see Figs. 229 -and 230), which are carried out with red freestone ashlar, and in the -details of the upper window of the north transept and the rose window of -the south transept, which are all of a later character than the Norman -work of the lower parts of the transept. In the south transept there may -also be noticed a pointed doorway (<a href="#fig_231">Fig. 231</a>) built with party-coloured -stones, which has been inserted by cutting into the old Norman arcade of -the interior. This is distinctly seen in the elevation of the interior -(<a href="#fig_232">Fig. 232</a>). Probably, when this was done, the older doorway which -existed at the east end of the nave south aisle, in the usual position -for access to the cloister, was built up, the intention of having a -cloister being abandoned. Some traces of the impost of the arch of the -original doorway, carved with Norman enrichments, may still be seen.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_263" id="page_263">{263}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_226" id="fig_226"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_263.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_263.png" width="633" height="345" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 226.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Longitudinal Section from -West to East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_264" id="page_264">{264}</a></span></p> - -<p>The two westmost bays of the nave (see <a href="#fig_228">Fig. 228.</a>) are built almost -entirely from top to bottom with red freestone, having a slight -admixture of white stone. This indicates a considerable alteration, and -it will be found that these two bays were rebuilt at a late period, when -a new west</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_227" id="fig_227"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_264.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_264.png" height="540" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 227.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Section through Transept -from North to South.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_265" id="page_265">{265}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_228" id="fig_228"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_265.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_265.png" width="640" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 228.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. North Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_266" id="page_266">{266}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">front was erected and the cathedral was extended westwards. It may be -mentioned that the cathedral stands alone in the middle of a large -churchyard. There are no other ecclesiastical structures connected with -it, such as cloisters or chapter house. The Bishop’s Palace,<a name="FNanchor_168_168" id="FNanchor_168_168"></a><a href="#Footnote_168_168" class="fnanchor">[168]</a> -however, is not far off. It has been a fine stately edifice, but is now -greatly ruined.</p> - -<p>Before considering more minutely the order of construction of the -cathedral, it is desirable to glance at the conditions under which it -was designed and carried out.</p> - -<p>Under the rule of the Norsemen, in the ninth and tenth centuries, any -early symptoms of Christian influence which may have previously existed -in Orkney had died out. But after the conversion of the inhabitants of -Orkney to Christianity, about the year 1000, traces of Christian worship -became observable. The first actual Bishop of Orkney was William the -Old, who held the bishopric for sixty-six years, and died in 1168. He -must, therefore, have been consecrated in 1102. His see was first at -Birsay (see <a href="#page_135">p. 135</a>), but was removed to Kirkwall on the erection of the -cathedral in 1137-52. The Bishop of Orkney was one of the suffragans of -the metropolitan see of Throndhjeim, which was erected in 1154. It was -not till 1472 that the see was placed under the metropolitan Bishop of -St. Andrews.</p> - -<p>The possession of the Orkneys was sometimes divided between two -relatives. In the beginning of the twelfth century two cousins, Hacon -and Magnus, shared the government; but in 1115 the latter was -treacherously slain in the island of Egilsay by Hacon, who thus obtained -the whole earldom.</p> - -<p>Some time after, however, a new claimant for Magnus’ share arose in -Rognvald, the son of Magnus’ sister, who made a vow that if he succeeded -in establishing his claim he would erect a “stone minster” in honour of -his predecessor, St. Magnus, the latter having been canonised. Rognvald -was successful in his project, and immediately proceeded to fulfil his -vow by founding at Kirkwall a cathedral dedicated to St. Magnus.</p> - -<p>The building was designed and superintended by the Norwegian Kol, the -father of Rognvald, who had the principal oversight of the whole work. -The relics of St. Magnus were brought from Christ’s Kirk, in Birsay, to -be deposited in the cathedral as soon as it was ready to receive them; -but in the meantime they rested in the Church of St. Olaf, an older -edifice which then existed at Kirkwall.<a name="FNanchor_169_169" id="FNanchor_169_169"></a><a href="#Footnote_169_169" class="fnanchor">[169]</a></p> - -<p>The Cathedral of St. Magnus was thus designed and erected by a Norwegian -earl, while the bishopric was under the authority of the Norwegian -Metropolitan of Throndhjeim. It is thus practically a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_267" id="page_267">{267}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_229" id="fig_229"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_267.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_267.png" width="252" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 229.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. View of North Transept and -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_268" id="page_268">{268}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_230" id="fig_230"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_268.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_268.png" width="604" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 230.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_269" id="page_269">{269}</a></span></p> - -<p>Norwegian edifice, and is by far the grandest monument of the rule of -the Norsemen in Orkney.</p> - -<p>In these circumstances, it is not to be expected that the architecture -should in every detail follow the contemporary styles which prevailed in</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_231" id="fig_231"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_269.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_269.png" height="469" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 231.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Doorway in South -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Britain; but it is astonishing to find how closely the earlier parts -correspond with the architecture of Normandy, which was developed by a -kindred race—the successors of Rollo and his rovers, who settled in -that country at an earlier date.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_270" id="page_270">{270}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_232" id="fig_232"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_270.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_270.png" height="625" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 232.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Interior of Doorway in -South Transept. The shaded voussoirs are of yellow and the remainder of -red freestone.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_271" id="page_271">{271}</a></span></p> - -<p>There can be little doubt that the Romanesque architecture which -prevailed in the North of Europe found its way at a comparatively late</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_233" id="fig_233"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_271.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_271.png" height="525" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 233.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. View of the Crossing from -the Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">date into Scandinavia. The Norman form of that style would naturally -follow the same course amongst the kindred races in Norway<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_272" id="page_272">{272}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_234" id="fig_234"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_272.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_272.png" width="424" height="630" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 234.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Choir, looking East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_273" id="page_273">{273}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">and Denmark, just as it did in England and Scotland, and from Norway it -would be transplanted into Orkney. We find that the “transition” style -and pointed styles follow here a similar course to that observed in -other countries, although, no doubt, with certain modifications, such as -might be looked for at so great a distance from the centre of origin.</p> - -<p>Sir Henry Dryden, who has given a great deal of study to Kirkwall -Cathedral, finds the differences of the architecture there as compared -with that of England so great that the usual terms in England are not -applicable; but we believe that, with some allowances, the same general -stages of progress can be observed at St. Magnus’ as in the South.</p> - -<p>It is well known that French architects were sent for to carry out the -Cathedral of Upsala, while the architecture of the Cathedral of -Throndhjeim is English in character. A certain mixture of design is -traceable in the details of these northern structures, but the general -scope of the architecture follows that of the rest of Europe.</p> - -<p>The Cathedral of St. Magnus was, as above mentioned, begun by Earl -Rognvald in 1137, and was, doubtless, carried on with as great -expedition as possible. It was a gigantic work to be undertaken in this -situation at the time, and difficulty arose with regard to funds. This, -however, was overcome by allowing the proprietors of lands in Orkney to -redeem their property by a single payment of a sum per acre, paid at -once, instead of according to the usual practice, on each succession.</p> - -<p>The first parts of the cathedral built (shown by black tint on Plan) -were the three westmost or Norman bays of the choir, with their aisles, -both the transepts, the crossing (afterwards altered), intended to -receive a tower over it, and two bays of the nave, which served to form -an abutment for the crossing. These portions are all (where unaltered) -in the earliest style of Norman work in the edifice. The round piers and -responds of the choir, the two south piers and one north pier of the -nave (with their cushion caps) (<a href="#fig_233">Fig. 233</a>), the main arches (with their -label mouldings in the choir and transept) (see Figs. 227 and 234), the -round arched and labelled windows in choir, transept, and nave (see <a href="#fig_228">Fig. -228.</a>), and the interlaced arcades in the latter (<a href="#fig_235">Fig. 235</a>), all point to -a somewhat advanced period of Norman work.</p> - -<p>The choir originally terminated with a central apse beyond the third -pier (as shown by dotted line), but it is impossible to say whether the -side aisles also had apses, or whether the aisle was continued round the -apse.</p> - -<p>The Norman windows of the choir aisle have three external orders, with a -label ornament in the outer order. The single shafts have cushion caps, -and the windows are largely splayed internally.</p> - -<p>An interlacing arcade of round arches, with single shafts and cushion -caps (some with volutes), runs round the north, south, and west sides -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_274" id="page_274">{274}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_235" id="fig_235"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_274.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_274.png" width="406" height="627" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 235.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. The Crossing and South -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_275" id="page_275">{275}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the transept. (See <a href="#fig_235">Fig. 235.</a>). The large arches leading into the east -chapels were formed originally, but the chapels were built later. The -lower string course of the transept is enriched with a four-leaved -flower. (See <a href="#fig_232">Fig. 232.</a>)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_236" id="fig_236"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_275.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_275.png" width="433" height="556" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 236.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Doorway in the North Aisle -of Nave, &c.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_276" id="page_276">{276}</a></span></p> - -<p>It seems likely that soon after the completion of the above portions -attention was given to the continuation of the nave westwards for -several bays. The piers have the same round form as the original ones, -but the caps are no longer octagonal, but round (see Figs. 224 and 233), -and instead of the cushion form, the caps are moulded. The north</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_237" id="fig_237"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_276.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_276.png" height="448" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 237.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. South Aisle of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">aisle wall opposite the three bays, west from the crossing, would appear -to have been built early (see Figs. 228 and 229). The buttresses are of -the flat Norman form, the three eastmost windows are moulded in three -orders, with a label enrichment like the choir aisle windows, while the -two windows to the west of above, although round, have mouldings of a -first<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_277" id="page_277">{277}</a></span> pointed character, and were, doubtless, finished at a later time -(see aisle window in <a href="#fig_236">Fig. 236.</a>). In the south aisle of the nave the east -window is similar to those of the north side, but the others, extending -as far as the south doorway, have, in the interior, mouldings indicating -a more advanced date. (<a href="#fig_237">Fig. 237.</a>) Externally, these windows have been -restored. There would appear to have been a good deal of time spent over -these aisle walls extending as far as the north and south doorways, and -the main piers and arches within them were probably erected at the same -period. Both of the above aisle walls have a Norman interlacing arcade -(see <a href="#fig_237">Fig. 237.</a>) running along the interior below the windows. In these -arcades, and those of the transepts, various varieties of chevron -ornament occur. The north aisle doorway (see <a href="#fig_236">Fig. 236.</a>) is Norman in -detail, but seems to have been restored at a late date. The interior -mouldings are similar to those of the three west doorways. The doorway -in the south aisle retains its old Norman arch and shafts in the -interior, but has been altered externally (<a href="#fig_238">Fig. 238</a>). The nave piers may -have been continued as far as the above doors about this time, together -with the triforium, but the upper part of the nave walls and the -vaulting are later.</p> - -<p>After the Norman period above described, a distinct change of style is -observable. This is prominently seen in the piers and arches of the -crossing (see Figs. 233 and 235), which are of an advanced transition -style, and appear to have been introduced in lieu of the old Norman -piers. Possibly, however, the older piers are preserved and encased in -the new. The latter (<a href="#fig_239">Fig. 239</a>) are arranged in the form of clustered -shafts, approaching first pointed in plan. The bases and caps of the -shafts are of transition character, being very like those of Jedburgh -Abbey, a good transition example. Some, however, have a tendency to -foliage, but all are much damaged. The arches are in distinct orders, -like first pointed work, and the inner order of those next the nave and -choir is enriched with a large boldly relieved chevron ornament (see -<a href="#fig_233">Fig. 233.</a>). The windows in the choir nearest the main arches of the -crossing, and the triforium openings into the transept, appear to have -been altered and rebuilt at the time of this operation. The upper part -of the north transept was probably raised and its windows inserted at -this time, as they are of transition character; but the raising of the -south transept and introduction of the rose window in it is of a -somewhat later date. This circular window (see <a href="#fig_235">Fig. 235.</a>) is very similar -to that in the east window of the choir. The chapels on the east side of -the transept are also of the transition period. Both internally, -including the vaulting, and externally, including the pointed windows -(see Figs. 229 and 230), the work of these chapels is very advanced -transition in style. Of course, it must be understood that the style is -referred to, not the date. The transition style may not have penetrated -to Orkney till a long time after it had been abandoned further south, -possibly not till the middle of the thirteenth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_278" id="page_278">{278}</a></span> century. The space -between the south chapel and the choir aisle has been built up and -formed into a small vaulted chamber, which has no</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_238" id="fig_238"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_278.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_278.png" height="494" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 238.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. South Doorway of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">opening communicating with the chamber in the south chapel. It enters -from a window in the aisle changed into a door. The use of this chamber -is unknown. The large windows in the triforium of the transept, -adjoin<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_279" id="page_279">{279}</a></span>ing the crossing, are cut across by the aisle roofs. This arises -from the aisle roofs having been raised at a late period. The vaulting -of the original choir, and the vaulting shafts, with their corbels (see -Section, <a href="#fig_226">Fig. 226.</a>), probably also belong to the transition period.</p> - -<p>The completion of the nave, as far as the original west wall, was -probably next undertaken. The piers (as above mentioned), although round -on plan like the original ones, have round moulded caps like those -further east. The arches over the piers were, no doubt, executed at the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_239" id="fig_239"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_279.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_279.png" height="330" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 239.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">same time, and the triforium carried up. The latter consists of three -orders of plain arches, with chamfer on edge, except some on the north -side, which have a bead and fillet on edge, thus indicating a somewhat -advanced date.</p> - -<p>It is not easy to say when the clerestory and vaulting of the nave were -executed; but, from the circumstance that the clerestory is built with -whitish stone, similar to the raised part of the clerestory of the -choir, we are inclined to believe that it was carried out about the -same<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_280" id="page_280">{280}</a></span> period as the heightening and vaulting of the choir, to be -afterwards referred to.</p> - -<p>Steps are introduced at the bottom of the nave triforium arches, which, -however, can scarcely be seen from below. Their object is to raise the -floor of the triforium, so as to give height for the aisle vaults.</p> - -<p>The next alteration of the cathedral effected a complete revolution in -the eastern portion of the edifice. The apse was taken down, and the -choir, with its aisles, was extended by three bays to the eastward. (See -<a href="#fig_234">Fig. 234.</a>) The junction of the extended work with the old is quite -apparent in the large pier on the left.</p> - -<p>The style of this extension of the choir has in many points a strong -resemblance to advanced first pointed work, but it exhibits some -peculiarities of detail. The piers of the new bays consist of clustered -shafts, but the arrangement of the shafts is peculiar, having rounds and -hollows passing into one another, and with fillets on edge, more like -decorated work than first pointed. The bases are of early form, and the -caps, which generally resemble first pointed work, have also features -which recall the French “Crochet caps” of the period.</p> - -<p>Possibly some of the Frenchmen engaged at Upsala or Throndhjeim may have -been brought over to the work at St. Magnus’, and have here left the -mark of their French extraction. Some of the caps, which have a square -abacus, have small leaves introduced at the junction of the circle with -the square—an arrangement common in bases, but very unusual in -capitals. (See Main Pier, Fig. 240.)</p> - -<p>The main arches over the piers (see <a href="#fig_234">Fig. 234.</a>) are not pointed, but -semi-circular (a form of common occurrence in Scotland). Otherwise the -sections of the mouldings, and the arrangement of the orders in distinct -divisions, are quite first pointed in style.</p> - -<p>The triforium consists of plain chamfered semi-circular arches and jambs -in three orders, with plain impost mouldings, being a continuation of -the design of the triforium of the earlier part of the choir.</p> - -<p>The clerestory has simple pointed windows, moulded on sconsion, but -without cusps, at the same level as the Norman windows in the western -part of the choir.</p> - -<p>A vaulting shaft is carried up between the piers. It springs from the -pier caps, and is very small up to the triforium, where it thickens and -runs up to the triforium caps, and above that point is carried up as a -triple shaft to the cap which receives the springing of the vault.</p> - -<p>The clerestory windows appear to have been built before the vaulting was -arranged, seeing that they are placed very low in the red part of the -wall. But when the vaulting was designed, it was found desirable to -raise the walls so as to get proper height for the arches. This was done -in whitish stone, and shows distinctly on the exterior, as above stated. -A row of Norman corbels on the north side marks the original height of -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_281" id="page_281">{281}</a></span> clerestory wall. These corbels appear to have been moved from the -Norman part of the choir, and inserted in their present position when -the choir</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_240" id="fig_240"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_281.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_281.png" height="515" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 240.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. East End of South Aisle of -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">was lengthened. A few corbels remain in their original position on the -south side of the choir. The vaulting of the old part of the choir was -also altered at the time when the new vaulting was built. The design of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_282" id="page_282">{282}</a></span> -the extended choir aisles corresponds with that of the choir, and is -very beautiful, though somewhat foreign in character. (See <a href="#fig_240">Fig. 240.</a>) -The ribs of the choir and aisle vaults have all bold sections of first -pointed form.</p> - -<p>The east end of the cathedral is of this period. The great east window -(see <a href="#fig_234">Fig. 234.</a>) fills the whole space available. This window, including -its mouldings, measures (according to Sir H. Dryden) 37 feet 2½ inches -by 16 feet 7½ inches. It is well designed, and has side shafts of first -pointed form, while the tracery is perhaps a little more advanced. The -great rose in the arch, which expands over the whole of the mullions and -arches of the tracery, is (as pointed out by Sir H. Dryden) quite -peculiar and unique. The three-arched recesses under the east window -indicate that the altar stood free from the wall. On the exterior, the -junction of the new buttresses with the old Norman ones is distinctly -seen. (See <a href="#fig_230">Fig. 230.</a>) The former are of red freestone, and project with -water tables in stages, while the latter are flat and shallow. The side -windows have plain splays in the jambs, and have no caps, one -round-headed window on the south side has two lights, and a doorway is -formed beneath it. A large base course goes round the choir and marks -the new work. It is also continued round the transept chapels at a lower -level. Besides the raising of the clerestory walls, above referred to, -the aisle walls of the choir have also been raised. On the north side -(see <a href="#fig_229">Fig. 229.</a>) this is effected by leaving the old parapet and building -a second parapet above it, while on the south side (see <a href="#fig_230">Fig. 230.</a>) the -old parapet has been removed and the wall heightened with red ashlar, -and a new parapet placed at the higher level. Several square windows -have been cut in the lower part of the north choir wall. These are -modern, and are not shown in the sketch. Their object is to admit light -under a gallery which has been inserted in the north aisle. The floor of -the choir has been raised, and is now reached by several steps from the -transept; but the steps to the sanctuary are believed to have been where -shown on the plan. As already mentioned, the clerestory and vaulting of -the six eastmost bays of the nave was probably executed soon after the -choir was finished, the outer wall of the clerestory being built with -the same whitish stone as the heightened part of the choir. The windows -are small and of plain-pointed form, like those of the choir. Some of -them have the appearance of having been cut up into the vaulting, as if -they had been inserted or heightened after the vaulting was built. It is -to be remarked that while the parapets of the nave and choir are on the -same level on the exterior, the vaulting of the nave is several feet -lower than that of the choir.</p> - -<p>The three western doorways (<a href="#fig_241">Fig. 241</a>) and the pointed doorway in the -south transept (see <a href="#fig_231">Fig. 231.</a>) must be assigned to a period rather later -than the choir. The wall containing the three west doorways is built -out<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_283" id="page_283">{283}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_241" id="fig_241"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_283.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_283.png" width="688" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 241.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. West Doorways.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_284" id="page_284">{284}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">of the square with the nave walls. It is supposed to have been erected -outside the church, with the view of lengthening it, while the original -west front stood at a point distant one bay from it. The new west wall -seems to have been left unfinished for a considerable time, the upper -part of the west front having, from its style, evidently been built at a -much later period than the doorways. When the new west wall was -completed, the old west front would be removed. This necessitated the -building of the westmost pair of piers. While this operation was in -progress, the next pair of piers and arch above have yielded, and the -piers remain much inclined to the west.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_242" id="fig_242"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_284.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_284.png" width="440" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 242.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Interior of West -Doorways.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The three west doorways and that in the south transept are specially -remarkable from their presenting probably the finest examples in Great -Britain of the use of coloured stones in the construction. This is -chiefly observable in the exterior, but is also carried out in the -interior of these doorways (<a href="#fig_242">Fig. 242</a>). The north doorway (<a href="#fig_245">Fig. 245</a>) and -central doorway (<a href="#fig_244">Fig. 244</a>) of the west front have the colours arranged -in concentric rings in the arches, red and yellow alternating. In the -south doorway (<a href="#fig_243">Fig. 243</a>) the same colours radiate and alternate, and in -the doorway of the south transept the red and yellow stones are arranged -chequerwise. (See <a href="#fig_231">Fig. 231.</a>) <a href="#fig_246">Fig. 246</a> shows the plan of the central -doorway.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_285" id="page_285">{285}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_243" id="fig_243"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_285.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_285.png" width="396" height="622" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 243.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Plan and Elevation of -South Doorway of West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_286" id="page_286">{286}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_244" id="fig_244"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_286.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_286.png" width="480" height="597" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 244.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Elevation at Central -Doorway of West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_287" id="page_287">{287}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_245" id="fig_245"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_287.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_287.png" width="379" height="613" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 245.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Plan and Elevation of -North Doorway of West End.</p><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 245.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Plan and Elevation of -North Doorway of West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_288" id="page_288">{288}</a></span></p> - -<p>The shafts have all been detached, as shown in the plans. They have been -renewed; but, as Sir H. Dryden suggests, no doubt correctly, they were -probably at first in red and yellow stone alternately.</p> - -<p>The caps have been very elaborately carved with foliage, which is now -much decayed. It looks later than the enrichments of the arches, which -consist of early ornaments, such as the dog-tooth and chevron, much -undercut. These enrichments, and the foliage which ran up the jambs of -the doorway, are now greatly decayed, especially the portions carved in -the yellow stone. In the case of the south transept doorway, the -stonework, which is much wasted, has been roughly repaired with cement. -The central doorway has five orders of mouldings, and the north and -south doorways four orders. The south transept doorway has also four -orders.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_246" id="fig_246"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_288.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_288.png" width="406" height="195" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 246.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Plan of Central Doorway of -West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Notwithstanding the damage they have sustained, these doorways are still -amongst the most charming portions of the edifice; and, as regards the -coloured decoration of their masonry, they stand almost alone in this -country.</p> - -<p>In the interior the west doorways and responds of piers (<a href="#fig_242">Fig. 242</a>) are -constructed with alternate bands of red and yellow stone, and the -sconsion moulding is enriched with a ball ornament. The sconsion of the -doorway of the north nave aisle has a similar enrichment, showing that -it must have been restored at a late date, as already mentioned.</p> - -<p>The buttresses between the west doorways are, so far as original, also -carried up in alternate red and yellow courses. (See <a href="#fig_241">Fig. 241.</a>) The -upper part of the gablet over the centre doorway is of the seventeenth -century, and bears the shield of Sir George Hay of Kinfauns, who rented -the lands of the bishopric in the beginning of the seventeenth century. -A crozier is added to the shield in connection with the lands of the -see. (See enlarged sketch in Fig. 244.)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_289" id="page_289">{289}</a></span></p> - -<p>The upper part of the west front is of late construction, having -probably been carried out when the two west bays of the nave were built. -These bays, as above mentioned, were added to the cathedral at a late -period, and are almost entirely built with red freestone. The piers are -designed in imitation of the old nave piers, but the caps and bases have -different mouldings, and the plinth of the base is round, while that of -the older bases is square. (See <a href="#fig_242">Fig. 242.</a>)</p> - -<p>The triforium and clerestory are also constructed in imitation of the -older parts of the nave. The three west bays of the nave and two bays of -the aisles remained without vaulting till they were covered with the -present wooden vaults, when the building was repaired by the Government -in 1848.</p> - -<p>The aisle windows in these bays are narrow, and have trefoiled cusped -heads, being the only cusping in the cathedral (see <a href="#fig_236">Fig. 236.</a>), except -those in the large round windows.</p> - -<p>The parapet of the north side of the nave is evidently a very late piece -of work. It is supported on large trefoil ornaments, or inverted -fleurs-de-lys, cut square into the wall, without chamfer or moulding. -(See <a href="#fig_236">Fig. 236.</a>)</p> - -<p>This ornament extends along the six eastmost bays of the nave, the two -westmost bays having a plain parapet on the same level. On the south -side of the nave the aisle wall has been raised with red ashlar (like -the choir south wall), and an ordinary parapet placed above it.</p> - -<p>The buttresses in the west part of the north side of the nave are of a -late pattern, with two set-offs, and those on the south side of the nave -have been repaired and altered.</p> - -<p>In the south side of the nave a new exterior doorway (see <a href="#fig_238">Fig. 238.</a>) has -been substituted for the old Norman doorway, the shafts and arch of the -latter remaining in the interior. The new doorway is said to have been -inserted by Bishop Reid in the sixteenth century. This is the same -Bishop whom we meet with as Prior of Beauly and Abbot of Kinloss -(<i>q.v.</i>)</p> - -<p>The doorway has the late form of a three-sided arch, and the mouldings -are those common at the period (sixteenth century). In the centre of the -lintel is the shield for a coat of arms, now obliterated, but a mitre is -still traceable. A benitier adjoins the doorway, and there seems to have -been a wooden porch or awning over it.</p> - -<p>The tower over the crossing (see <a href="#fig_230">Fig. 230.</a>) has been considerably -operated upon in modern times. The old wooden spire was destroyed by -lightning in 1671, and the tower consequently required repairs. The -parapet and pinnacles are modern, as also the pointed and slated roof; -but the lower part seems to be of considerable age (see Section, <a href="#fig_227">Fig. -227.</a>). The part within the roof of the church is apparently of transition -date, and the upper part, with the large pointed windows, is probably of -fifteenth century work.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_290" id="page_290">{290}</a></span></p> - -<p>An unusually wide wheel stair leads from the north-west and south-west -angles of the transept to the upper parts of the edifice. These stairs -are connected with passages which circulate all round the clerestory and -triforium in the thickness of the walls (<a href="#fig_247">Fig. 247</a>), and give access to -every part of the building. They also pass round the tower at each -story, and are connected with small wheel stairs in the angles, by one -of which access is obtained to the roof.</p> - -<p>There would appear to have been, at one time, numerous fine monuments in -the cathedral, but they have all disappeared.</p> - -<p>An arched recess, with a gablet over it, in the south nave aisle (see -<a href="#fig_237">Fig. 237.</a>) is now empty, but is supposed, by Sir H. Dryden, to have been -erected for some member of the family of the Strathernes, Earls of -Orkney.</p> - -<p>The altar tomb of Bishop Tulloch, who died soon after 1455, stood -between the two eastmost pillars of the choir. It was a handsome -erection, and appears to have had a canopy, but not a fragment now -exists. A stone cist was discovered between the two east piers of the -choir (north side) during the repairs in 1848. It contained a skeleton -doubled up, and an ivory crozier and a plate of lead inscribed, “Hic -requiescit Wilialmus senex felicis memorie,” and on the back “primus -episcopus.” Bishop William the old died in 1168. The cist and bones were -carted away with the rubbish in 1856, but the ivory staff handle and the -lead plate are preserved in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries at -Edinburgh.</p> - -<p>Numerous slabs, with inscriptions of the seventeenth century, have been -erected against the nave walls.</p> - -<p>At one time the cathedral possessed some fine specimens of woodwork. The -canopy over the Bishop’s throne (shown by Billings) has now disappeared.</p> - -<p>The alms dishes, which are of brass, 2 feet 5 inches diameter, are of -Dutch workmanship of the seventeenth century. They are large and fine of -their kind.</p> - -<p>The tower contains four bells. Three of these were given by Bishop -Maxwell. The great bell (3 feet 5½ inches diameter and 2 feet 9 inches -high) has, on a raised shield, the Bishop’s arms, a saltier, with -annulet in centre, and under it “NLTAS.” Also the following -inscription:—“Made by Master Robbert Maxvell, Bischop of Orkney the -yaer of God <span class="smcap">MDXXVIII</span> the year of the reign of King James the V., Robert -Borthwik made mein the castel of Edinbrugh.” There is also in a -medallion, containing in seven lines, the following:—“Taken et brought -againe heir by Alexander Geddus marchant in Kirkwa and recasten at -Amsterdam Jully 1682 years by Claudius Fremy city bell caster. It weighs -1450 P.” On a medallion, a figure with a sword, and, under it SCT -MAGNVS. The latter inscription shows that this bell was sent to -Amster<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_291" id="page_291">{291}</a></span>dam</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_247" id="fig_247"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_291.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_291.png" width="617" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 247.</span>—Kirkwall Cathedral. Plan at Level of -Clerestory.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_292" id="page_292">{292}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">to be recast, which was required, in consequence of a crack or rift -having occurred in it.</p> - -<p>The second bell (3 feet 1 inch diameter and 2 feet 5 inches high) bears -the following inscription in black letters:—“Maid be maister robert -maxvell bischop of Orknay in ye secund yier of his consecration in the -zier of god Im Vc <small>XXVIII</small> zeiris ye <small>XV</small> zier of ye reign of King James V.” -On a medallion is a figure with a sword, and, under it, “Sanctus -Magnus.” Below, “robert borthvik.” Also, on a medallion, the arms of -Scotland, and on another, the arms of Maxwell, and on another part, -“Ihs.”</p> - -<p>The first bell is 2 feet 9 inches diameter and 2 feet 5 inches high. The -inscription, in black letters, raised in three lines, is, “Maid be -maister robert maxvel byschop of Orknay, ye secund zeir of his -consecration ye zeir of gode Im Vc <small>XXVIII</small> zeirs ye <small>XV</small> zeir of Kyng James -y V. be robert borthvik maid al thre in ye castel of Edynbrugh.” There -are also, on a medallion, a figure of St. Magnus, on a shield the arms -of Maxwell, as before, and on another part, “Ihs.” Robert Borthwick, -above mentioned, was master gunner to King James <small>IV.</small></p> - -<p>The fourth bell is small (1 foot 8 inches diameter and 1 foot 4 inches -high), and is not hung. (See description of St. Magnus by Sir Henry E. -L. Dryden, Bart.)</p> - -<p>The fabric of the cathedral does not appear to have suffered at the time -of the Reformation, but in 1606 an attempt was made by the Earl of -Caithness to destroy it. This happened during the rebellion of E. -Patrick Stewart, who had taken possession of the Tower, and used it as a -place of strength. The demolition was, however, prevented by the -intervention of Bishop Law.</p> - -<p>The building would appear, in 1701, to have received very improper usage -at the hands of the Town Guard, who occupied it as a public place, -shooting guns and “drinking, fiddling, piping, swearing and cursing -night and day” within the church, and so rendering it unfit for public -worship. Great repairs were required in the early part of this century, -and the Government, under the belief that the cathedral was Crown -property, expended a good deal of money in putting it in good condition -in 1848. It was afterwards discovered that the building belonged to the -town, when the local authorities took possession of it and replaced in -the choir the galleries which had been removed. The choir still -continues to be used as the parish church.</p> - -<h3>ST. BLANE’S CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Bute</span>.</h3> - -<p>This interesting ruin stands in a remote valley near the south end of -the island of Bute, being about three miles south from the parish church -of Kingarth. The site is at a considerable elevation, and commands a -fine<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_293" id="page_293">{293}</a></span> view of the hills of Arran to the south. A lofty and precipitous -wooded hill shelters the valley from the northwards. The building stands -on a slightly elevated platform, enclosed with a retaining wall. This -enclosure forms an upper churchyard, while another enclosure below it -forms a lower churchyard. In former times the upper burial-ground was -reserved for men, and the lower one for women.</p> - -<p>At first sight the structure at once impresses one as being a Norman -building (<a href="#fig_248">Fig. 248</a>), from the style of the masonry of the lofty central -wall and the east end, which stand out prominently from amongst the -ruins. On closer inspection, the church is found to consist (<a href="#fig_249">Fig. 249</a>) -of an oblong nave, 50 feet 6 inches in length internally by 16 feet 8 -inches in width, and a chancel, 26 feet 3 inches long by 13 feet 11 -inches wide, separated by the lofty wall above referred to. The latter -contains a chancel arch, 5 feet 3 inches in width.</p> - -<p>The masonry of the nave is undoubtedly Norman, being in courses of -carefully-dressed freestone, with upright joints all breaking band. The -west wall has, on account of the slope of the ground, been brought up -from a depth of several feet below the level of the floor, and the lower -portion is thickened, and has exterior set-offs about the floor level. A -base of peculiar form is carried round the building. (See Figs. <a href="#fig_248">248</a> and -<a href="#fig_249">249</a>.) The side and west walls are now reduced to a few feet in height, -and there thus remains no trace of any windows. There have been two -entrance doorways, opposite one another, in the north and south walls -near the west end, of which only some fragments remain.</p> - -<p>The chancel arch (<a href="#fig_250">Fig. 250</a>) is of good Norman design. On the side next -the nave it is in two orders, the inner order having a simple linear or, -perhaps, bird’s-beak enrichment, and the outer order is enriched with -two series of chevrons, one on the face and the other on the soffit, -which leave on the angle a raised lozenge form between them. The arch is -enclosed with a label of three-sided section, enriched with a lozenge -pattern, and having a small Greek cross in the centre of the arch. Each -order rests on the cap of a shaft, the inner shafts being half-rounds, -and the outer shafts complete cylinders set in nooks; but these shafts -have now disappeared. The caps vary in design, but are of good Norman -character.</p> - -<p>The bases are much decayed. The abacus of the shafts forms a string -course, which was continued round the interior of the nave. It is carved -with a saltier-like ornament. A similar string course probably ran round -the exterior of the nave. The side of the arch next the chancel is -plain, the outer order only having a simple roll on the edge. (See Fig. -<a href="#fig_248">248</a>.) The central wall between the nave and chancel is in good -preservation, and is carried up with freestone courses resembling the -ashlar work of the nave; but the work is coarse, and has probably been -rebuilt. Three buttresses, built with whinstone, have been erected at a -late period against the south wall of the nave, which seems to have -shown signs of weakness.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_294" id="page_294">{294}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_248" id="fig_248"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_294.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_294.png" width="640" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 248.</span> St. Blane’s Church. From North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_295" id="page_295">{295}</a></span></p> - -<p>The Norman masonry of the nave extends both on the north and south sides -for about 13 feet into the chancel, when it stops suddenly against a -whinstone wall. A fragment of the Norman string course is traceable on -the exterior of the north wall at the west end, and the same base as -that of the nave runs along this Norman part of the chancel. There are -the remains of a doorway in the south wall.</p> - -<p>The remainder or eastern portions of the side walls of the choir are -composed in their lower part of whinstone rubble work (both on the -exterior and interior), while the upper portions of the side walls are -built with freestone, similar to that used in the nave, but executed -with very inferior workmanship, especially as regards the jointing and -coursing of</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_249" id="fig_249"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_295.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_295.png" width="372" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 249.</span>—St. Blane’s Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the stones. The lower rubble portions of the side walls contain no -openings, but the upper freestone portions contain windows. The window -in the north wall (see <a href="#fig_248">Fig. 248.</a>) is a single-pointed light, with -freestone ingoings and sconsion arch. There has at one time been a -similar one-light window in the south wall, but at a later date a -two-light window has been introduced instead of it. The latter being -placed at a higher level than the former, part of the older window still -remains below the sill of the later one. The older windows in the side -walls are moulded on the jambs; the later one is splayed. A piscina has -also been inserted in the south wall close to the window.</p> - -<p>The eastern wall of the chancel, like the east portions of the side -walls, has the lower part built with whinstone rubble, and the upper -portion with freestone. As the ground slopes to the east, the east end<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_296" id="page_296">{296}</a></span> -wall is carried deeper than the side walls. The lower portion (which -extends also for a short way along the north and south sides) is brought -up with whinstone rubble for about two feet (see <a href="#fig_248">Fig. 248.</a>), when a</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_250" id="fig_250"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_296.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_296.png" height="509" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 250.</span>—St. Blane’s Church. Chancel Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">freestone splayed base (quite different from, and at a lower level than, -that of the nave) is laid above it. The wall over the base is carried up -in the interior with whinstone rubble for nearly four<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_297" id="page_297">{297}</a></span> feet (see <a href="#fig_250">Fig. -250.</a>), and on the exterior with rubble mixed with freestone for two -courses. Above this the wall is built in the interior for two courses, -and in the exterior for four courses, with carefully-constructed and -jointed freestone blocks, similar to those of the nave walls. A set-off -occurs on the exterior above these courses. The upper part of the wall -and the exterior of the gable are composed of freestone, built -irregularly, like the upper portions of the side walls. The upper -portion of the interior is of similar work up to the top of the windows, -above which it is of rubble work.</p> - -<p>In the east wall there are two single-light pointed windows, similar to -the window in the north wall. They have the same mouldings, and similar -sconsion arches. The inner sills are stepped in three courses. An ambry -is inserted in the east wall.</p> - -<p>There is some difficulty in explaining the sequence of the construction, -and the comparative dates of all the different portions of the chancel.</p> - -<p>In a paper by Mr. William Galloway, in the <i>Archæologia Scotica</i>, Vol. -<small>V</small>. p. 217, a very interesting and ingenious theory is propounded -thereanent. It is there supposed that the whinstone rubble work is -actually a portion of an ancient chapel erected at a very early date, -and that the Norman work was built around it, in order, so far as -possible, to preserve the venerable remains of the primitive structure. -This, it is pointed out, would explain the finely coursed work which -occurs above the rubble work on the exterior and interior of the east -end wall and adjoining portions of the north and south walls. As regards -the inferior freestone work of the upper part of the walls, it is -assumed that these are the result of an alteration which took place in -the thirteenth century.</p> - -<p>If this theory were correct, it would enhance very greatly the interest -of the structure, not only by the extreme antiquity it would assign to -it, but also by proving the great veneration with which it was regarded, -and the unusual tenderness with which it was treated by the twelfth -century builders.</p> - -<p>It must, however, be confessed that an inspection of the building does -not tend to confirm the theory. Several points arise which do not appear -to be met by it, such as—(1) How does the splayed freestone base of the -east end happen to be laid in the middle of the rubble work? Such a base -is practically unknown in ancient Celtic structures. (2) On the north -wall of the choir a string course and moulded base exist in the Norman -portion, and have apparently run along the outside. Would these simply -be butted against the supposed ancient rubble work, or how would they be -terminated? (3) Is it at all consistent with the usual action of Norman -builders to leave small fragments of ancient rubble work and incorporate -them in their structures? Or was it not, on the contrary, their -invariable practice to remove such early work? Is it not more reasonable -to suppose that the different styles of work which are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_298" id="page_298">{298}</a></span> seen here are -the result of alterations and repairs? A study of the building itself -certainly tends to strengthen that impression. After a careful -inspection of the structure, one feels it impossible to believe that the -different portions of the work were other than the result of alteration -and patching. It is admitted that the matter is rather puzzling; but we -venture to make the following suggestions as to the history of the -building.</p> - -<p>The chancel was probably all built originally in the Norman style of its -existing west half. Some accident overtook it, and the east half was -demolished. In rebuilding it whinstone rubble work was chiefly used, but -a splayed freestone base course was inserted, where it still remains. -The Norman-like courses above the rubble work were derived from the old -materials of the demolished Norman portion, and were reused without -alteration, as nearly as possible, in the same manner as originally.</p> - -<p>It is generally supposed that the imperfect work of the upper portions -of the walls is of thirteenth century date, but it is more probably much -later. The irregular and inferior workmanship alone seems to prove that, -and the windows are of a form which might belong to any date. The -sconsion arches are not unlike those of the church at Rothesay, which is -not earlier than the end of the fifteenth century.</p> - -<h3>DALMENY CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Linlithgowshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This edifice is the completest of our Norman parish churches, consisting -(<a href="#fig_251">Fig. 251</a>) of a chancel with eastern apse and a nave or main building, -separated from the chancel by an elaborate chancel arch. As usual in -parish churches of this period, there are no aisles. Although the above -divisions are complete, the church has not entirely escaped alterations -and additions. On the north side projecting wings have been added, which -contain a gallery and a north porch, and staircase leading to the -gallery. The south front and east end are, however, almost untouched, -and show the work of the twelfth century, uninjured save by natural -decay.</p> - -<p>The church stands beside the quiet and pleasant rural village of -Dalmeny, about one mile inland from South Queensferry, and about eight -miles west from Edinburgh. Little is known of its history. A charter is -signed by Robert Avenel, “parson of Dumanie,” about 1166-82, and in the -thirteenth century, during the reign of William or Alexander <small>II.</small>, the -church was granted to the monks of Jedworth. It is believed to have been -dedicated to St. Adamnan,<a name="FNanchor_170_170" id="FNanchor_170_170"></a><a href="#Footnote_170_170" class="fnanchor">[170]</a> and the fact of the neighbouring church -of Cramond being dedicated to St. Columba tends to confirm this belief, -as it has been pointed out by Dr. Skene that these<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_299" id="page_299">{299}</a></span> two saints’ names -are generally found together in the dedication of churches.</p> - -<p>The edifice consists of a nave 42 feet long by 18 feet wide, with a -projection in the south wall, which contains the doorway. It has three -small windows in the south wall. In the interior of the south wall there -is a recess, now linteled over, which may have contained a monument.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_251" id="fig_251"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_299-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_299-a.png" width="411" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 251.</span>—Dalmeny Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>From the rough nature of the masonry at the west end of the nave, a -tower would appear to have been intended to be built there. Part of the -commencement of its side walls exists, and into these the two buttresses -shown on Plan have been toothed or joined at a later period.</p> - -<p>The nave (<a href="#fig_252">Fig. 252</a>) opens to the chancel with a splendid chancel arch, -having three orders decorated with elaborate chevron ornaments, enclosed -with a hood moulding carved with an enrichment somewhat resembling the -dog-tooth (<a href="#fig_253">Fig. 253</a>). The soffit of the arch contains a similar faceted -enrichment. The arch is carried on three attached shafts on each side, -built in ashlar, and provided with subdivided cushion caps and plain -bases.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_253" id="fig_253"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_299-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_299-b.png" width="127" height="101" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 253.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>The chancel (<a href="#fig_254">Fig. 254</a>) is 16 feet long by 15 feet wide, and is vaulted -with bold diagonal groin-ribs, enriched with chevron ornaments and -springing from grotesque corbels (<a href="#fig_255">Fig. 255</a>). It has one small window on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_300" id="page_300">{300}</a></span> -the south side, with plain splay in the ingoing and plain sconsions and -arch.</p> - -<p>The apse is semi-circular, and is entered from the chancel by an</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_252" id="fig_252"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_300.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_300.png" height="492" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 252.</span>—Dalmeny Church. Nave, looking East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">enriched arch (see <a href="#fig_254">Fig. 254.</a>). The arch has two orders carved with -chevron ornaments and a hood mould with faceted enrichment. The shafts -and caps are similar to those of the chancel arch. The apse is vaulted -like<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_301" id="page_301">{301}</a></span> a single square bay, with boldly moulded groin-ribs springing from -large corbels carved with grotesque heads (<a href="#fig_256">Figs. 256</a> and <a href="#fig_257">257</a>). The wall -is of</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_254" id="fig_254"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_301.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_301.png" width="420" height="547" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 254.</span>—Dalmeny Church. View of Apse from Chancel.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">plain ashlar, and the apse is lighted by three plain window openings -(<a href="#fig_258">Fig. 258</a>), the central one of which has been enlarged.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_302" id="page_302">{302}</a></span></p> - -<p>The exterior of the church (<a href="#fig_259">Fig. 259</a>) is built with the usual cubic -ashlar of the period. All the windows in the building (<a href="#fig_260">Fig. 260</a>) have a -single pair of shafts with cushion or carved caps, and an arch, of one -order, carved with chevron ornament, and a hood mould enriched with -faceted patterns. The choir and apse have a boldly projected cornice -supported on corbels carved with grotesque heads. The choir has the side -walls carried up in the form of a parapet above the cornice, having -evidently been raised at some period to the same height externally as -the nave. A string course runs round the building immediately below the -windows, of which it forms the sills. It is enriched with a carved -floral pattern.</p> - -<p>The doorway (<a href="#fig_261">Fig. 261</a>) is placed in a projecting part of the south wall, -and is surmounted by an arcade of interlacing arches, with corbel course -above, carved with grotesque heads.</p> - -<p>The doorway has two nook shafts on each side, the outer one round</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_255" id="fig_255"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_302.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_302.png" width="304" height="163" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 255.</span>—Dalmeny Church. Corbels.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and the inner one octagonal. These are detached and in single stones. -They carry enriched caps, three of them having foliage and volutes -imitated from the Roman, and one with traces of an animal. A string -course, enriched with scrolls, forms an abacus above the caps, and from -the abacus spring the arch mouldings in two orders, with carved hood -mould beyond.</p> - -<p>The inner order of arches contains thirteen voussoirs, each of which is -sculptured with a figure. These figures (<a href="#fig_262">Fig. 262</a>) are very similar to -those often found on the ancient sculptured monuments of Scotland, and -have also considerable analogy with the figures carved on the Norman -churches of England and on the Continent, thus indicating (as pointed -out in the Introduction) the connection between the former and the -latter. Commencing at the right-hand voussoir of the inner order, we -have (No. 1) a clear representation of the Agnus Dei, bearing the cross -in sign of victory; No. 2 seems to represent a serpent, possibly with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_303" id="page_303">{303}</a></span> -human head; No. 3 represents a winged quadruped with a bird’s head; No. -4, a lion (a favourite emblem both in Norman work and Scottish -monuments); Nos. 5 and 6 are too much decayed to be intelligible; No. 7 -seems</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_256" id="fig_256"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_303.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_303.png" height="490" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 256.</span>—Dalmeny Church. View from the Apse, looking -West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">to be a hare running and an animal with scrolled tail at rest; No. 8, a -winged bird and serpent; No. 9, a winged dragon with tail passing into a -divided scroll, part of which it is biting with its bill; No. 10, a -winged<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_304" id="page_304">{304}</a></span> griffin; No. 11, a bird with a fish’s tail pecking at a serpent; -No. 12, two</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_257" id="fig_257"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_304-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_304-a.png" width="383" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 257.</span>—Dalmeny Church.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">seated human figures clasping hands; No. 13, a nondescript bird and -serpent.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_258" id="fig_258"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_304-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_304-b.png" height="226" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 258.</span>—Window in Apse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The outer order of the arch contains eight projecting heads of grotesque -form, but some of them much decayed. Alternating with these heads are -voussoirs carved with figures somewhat similar to those of the inner -order. These, so far as can be made out, are—No. 1, a man with a pair -of horses; No. 2, a lion, perhaps crowned; No. 3 seems to represent a -number of darts radiating from a centre; No. 4, a centaur or Sagittarius -shooting an arrow at an undefined object; No. 5, two seated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_305" id="page_305">{305}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_259" id="fig_259"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_305.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_305.png" width="531" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 259.</span>—Dalmeny Church. From South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_306" id="page_306">{306}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">figures, one holding a spear or pastoral staff. At each side of the -arch, and resting on the string course, are two detached figures, which -recall the figures similarly placed at Whithorn Priory. That on the -right represents a man holding a spear, that on the left, although -apparently a human figure, is too far gone to be clearly made out.</p> - -<p>This doorway is particularly interesting from being, as we believe, the -only example in Scotland of similar well-preserved sculptures upon a -church. In England, as pointed out by Mr. Romilly Allen, sculpture</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_260" id="fig_260"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_306.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_306.png" height="335" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 260.</span>—Dalmeny Church. Window in Nave and Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of this description is common on Norman structures after 1135, -especially on doorways and fonts. It is difficult to form an idea of the -meaning of many of these sculptured figures, occurring, as they do, in -the strangest juxtaposition. On this point Mr. Romilly Allen -observes<a name="FNanchor_171_171" id="FNanchor_171_171"></a><a href="#Footnote_171_171" class="fnanchor">[171]</a> that “one of the most remarkable features in Norman -sculpture is the way in which the Agnus Dei is associated with what -appears to us to be the most incongruous surroundings, such as animals, -serpents, and a bird at Parwich in Derbyshire; animals and a figure -holding a pastoral staff at Hagnaston<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_307" id="page_307">{307}</a></span> in Derbyshire; a tree with birds -and Sagittarius and Leo at Stoke Subhampton in Somersetshire, &c.” Such -descriptions would well apply</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_261" id="fig_261"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_307.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_307.png" width="421" height="558" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 261.</span>—Dalmeny Church. Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_308" id="page_308">{308}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">to the doorway of Dalmeny Church, where we have associated with the -Agnus Dei, Leo, Sagittarius, serpents, birds, dragons, and human -figures, one, perhaps, bearing a pastoral staff.</p> - -<p>Numerous similar figures may be also seen on the sculptured monuments</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_262" id="fig_262"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_308.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_308.png" height="534" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 262.</span>—Dalmeny Church. Figures on Inner and Outer -Orders of Doorway Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_309" id="page_309">{309}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">of Scotland, and thus a connection is observed between these remarkable -erections and the sculpture of Norman buildings, which brings the -earlier monuments into close connection with the later, and provides -them a place in the general history of art in the country. Sculptures of -a similar description have, at one time, existed at Dunfermline and -Jedburgh, but they are now too far wasted away to be intelligible.</p> - -<h3>LEUCHARS CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Fifeshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Situated four and a half miles from St. Andrews, and one mile from -Leuchars Railway Junction, this church, like that of Dalmeny, forms one -of the best-preserved examples of our parish churches of the Norman -period. Though not complete, like Dalmeny, the choir and apse of -Leuchars, which alone remain, are even more richly decorated with the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_263" id="fig_263"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_309.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_309.png" width="407" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 263.</span>—Leuchars Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">characteristic ornaments of the style than the former. As usual, the -church is without aisles.</p> - -<p>It is scarcely possible to ascertain the date of these early structures, -but we find from the registry of the Priory of St. Andrews that the -Ecclesia de Lochres existed in the year 1187. There are letters by -Orabile, Countess of Mar, attesting that she was present when her -father,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_310" id="page_310">{310}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_264" id="fig_264"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_310.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_310.png" width="432" height="596" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 264.</span>—Leuchars Church. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_311" id="page_311">{311}</a></span></p> - -<p>Nes, the son of William, gave the Church of Leuchars, in Fife (Lochres), -to the Canons of St. Andrews, 1171-1199.</p> - -<p>Orabile was married to Robert de Quinci. Between 1210 and 1219 Syer de -Quinci, Earl of Winchester, gave to the Canons of St. Andrews three -merks of silver yearly from his mill of Leuchars for the souls of his</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_265" id="fig_265"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_311.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_311.png" height="409" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 265.</span>—Leuchars Church. 1. Details of Apse. 2. -Details of Choir. 3. Corbel in Apse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">grandfather and grandmother, of his father, Robert de Quinci, and his -mother, Orabile.<a name="FNanchor_172_172" id="FNanchor_172_172"></a><a href="#Footnote_172_172" class="fnanchor">[172]</a></p> - -<p>The church (<a href="#fig_263">Fig. 263</a>) now consists of a choir, 19 feet 9 inches long by -18 feet wide, with a circular apse, 12 feet 6 inches wide and 12 feet -deep. There are traces of an arch at the west end of the choir, which -opened into the nave; but the latter is now rebuilt.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_312" id="page_312">{312}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_266" id="fig_266"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_312.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_312.png" width="443" height="577" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 266.</span>—Leuchars Church. Interior of Apse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_313" id="page_313">{313}</a></span></p> - -<p>The general view (<a href="#fig_264">Fig. 264</a>) shows the exterior of the semi-circular -apse, with its arcade of two stories, the shafts of the upper tier -resting on the arches of the lower one, and all the shafts bearing -cushion caps. Those of the lower story are double shafts, and those of -the upper story are double</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_267" id="fig_267"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_313.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_313.png" width="421" height="450" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 267.</span>—Leuchars Church. Exterior of Choir, &c.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">shafts, with a broad fillet between them. All the arches are enriched -with chevron and billet mouldings, and the upper tier has an extra order -of elaborate billet-work. The string course between the two arcades is -carved with zig-zags (<a href="#fig_265">Fig. 265</a>). The cornice is supported on a series of -boldly-carved grotesque heads, all varying in design.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_314" id="page_314">{314}</a></span></p> - -<p>On the top of the apse vault there has been built, in the seventeenth -century, an incongruous turret, which, although not of bad design, is -extremely out of place. To support this belfry, a plain arch has been -introduced in the interior amongst the Norman work of the apse. (<a href="#fig_266">Fig. -266.</a>)</p> - -<p>The design of the exterior of the choir (<a href="#fig_267">Fig. 267</a>) is similar to that of -the apse, there being two arcades, one above the other, surmounted by a -cornice, with corbels carved as grotesque heads. The lower arcade, -however, has interlacing arches (see <a href="#fig_265">Fig. 265.</a>), which indicate a late -period of the style. The two arcades are separated by a string course, -enriched with scroll floral ornament.</p> - -<p>In the interior (see <a href="#fig_266">Fig. 266.</a>) attention is drawn to the elaborate -carving of the chancel arch, which has two orders of complex chevron -ornament, and an outer order or hood mould of four rows of billets. The -soffit of the arch is also enriched with chevrons, so arranged as to -form a row of lozenge ornaments in the centre. The chancel arch is -carried on a central attached shaft and two plain nook shafts, built in -courses, with simple cushion caps and plain bases.</p> - -<p>The chancel is vaulted with heavy moulded groins, springing from the -cushion caps of short single shafts resting on grotesque heads. (See -<a href="#fig_265">Fig. 265.</a>) A small window is introduced in each of the divisions formed -by the shafts, and each window has a pair of nook shafts in the interior -and enriched arch above. The lower part of the apse is plain, and is -separated from the upper part by a string course, enriched with faceted -ornaments.</p> - -<h3>BUNKLE CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Berwickshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>There exist in Berwickshire the remains of a number of Norman churches -which, unfortunately, are very fragmentary. This is the more to be -regretted, as the portions still remaining of some of them show that -they must have been equal, if not superior, in richness of detail to -most of the better preserved specimens in other parts of the country. -The fragments at Edrom and Legerwood are of the finest Norman -architecture, while the extreme simplicity of the work at Bunkle seems -to indicate that it is very early in the style. At Chirnside and St. -Helen’s but little is left; indeed, the latter is now almost only a -memory of the past.<a name="FNanchor_173_173" id="FNanchor_173_173"></a><a href="#Footnote_173_173" class="fnanchor">[173]</a></p> - -<p>The numerous remains of Norman parish churches scattered throughout -Berwickshire point to the direction from which the Roman influence -gradually spread over the country.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_315" id="page_315">{315}</a></span></p> - -<p>Amongst these fragments, the small piece of Bunkle Church (<a href="#fig_268">Fig. 268</a>) -which survives is one of the earliest. It is situated about 4½ miles -north-west from Chirnside Station, on the Duns Branch Railway, and -stands in the immediate neighbourhood of the fragmentary ruins of</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_268" id="fig_268"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_315.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_315.png" height="441" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 268.</span>—Bunkle Church. Plan and View of Apse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Bunkle Castle. The building appears to have been entire till about 1820, -when it was demolished, and the materials used in the erection of the -existing parish church, which adjoins it. Only the semi-circular apse, -with the arch leading into it, remains of what was the original parish -church. The building is extremely plain, and Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_316" id="page_316">{316}</a></span> Muir<a name="FNanchor_174_174" id="FNanchor_174_174"></a><a href="#Footnote_174_174" class="fnanchor">[174]</a> suggests -that it may be of even earlier than twelfth century date. The apse is -about 11 feet in width, and projects 7 feet internally. It has a small -round-headed window to the north-east, and another to the south-east, -but none to the east. These windows are placed high, and are 18 inches -wide on the outside, and are widely splayed inwards. Adjoining the -south-east window are the remains of a piscina, about 14 inches square -by 11 inches high. The entrance to the apse from the choir is preserved. -It is 7 feet 6 inches in width, and 7 feet 10 inches high to the -springing of the arch. The wall is 3 feet in thickness. The jambs are -plain, and the semi-circular arch is also plain, having one deep -square-edged order extending the full thickness of the wall. The impost -is a simple fascia, with a small splay on the under edge. The apse is -vaulted with a plain semidome similar to that of St. Margaret’s Chapel -in Edinburgh Castle, and the roof is formed with overlapping stones. A -few stones are observable in the walls of the new church which are -carved with zigzag ornaments, and were, doubtless, derived from the old -building.</p> - -<h3>EDROM CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Berwickshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Of the ancient parish church of Edrom, situated about one mile from -Edrom Railway Station, there still survives a Norman doorway of -beautiful workmanship. (<a href="#fig_269">Fig. 269.</a>)<a name="FNanchor_175_175" id="FNanchor_175_175"></a><a href="#Footnote_175_175" class="fnanchor">[175]</a> It has been preserved by being -made the entrance to a burial vault at the west end of the church. This -doorway (<a href="#fig_270">Fig. 270</a>) is one of the finest of the style in Scotland, and is -of considerable size, being 11 feet high and 4 feet 8 inches wide. It -has two shafts (one of them a nook shaft) in each jamb, and the ashlar -work of the wall forms the support of the outer order. The arch contains -three orders, all elaborately carved with Norman enrichments. The inner -enrichment (<a href="#fig_271">Fig. 271</a>) consists of a series of chevrons; the central -order is also ornamented with two sets of chevrons, arranged so as to -form lozenge shapes between them, which are filled with delicate -carvings. The outer order contains a repeating ornament, arranged in -squares, and the whole is enclosed with a small label carved with a -delicately foliaged ornament.</p> - -<p>The caps of the shafts are somewhat remarkable. <a href="#fig_271">Fig. 271</a> shows those of -each side. The cushion caps and the elaborately carved scrolls of the -left central cap correspond with ordinary Norman work, but the peculiar -and twisted serpent-like forms of the right jamb are remarkable.</p> - -<p>It is not quite clear that the doorway is in its original state. There -are three capitals on each side, only two of which have shafts. It is -not<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_317" id="page_317">{317}</a></span> unlikely that the remaining two capitals had either shafts or some -kind of decoration continued to the base, as at Iffley or Middleton; -Stoney,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_269" id="fig_269"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_317.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_317.png" height="511" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 269.</span>—Edrom Church. Norman Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Oxfordshire; or Kirkham Priory, Yorkshire (see <i>Parker’s Glossary</i>). It<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_318" id="page_318">{318}</a></span> -is also probable that the opening was square-headed, and the tympanum -filled with a shield, as at Abercorn and Linton.</p> - -<p>The lands and church of Edenham, with Nisbet, were granted to</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_270" id="fig_270"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_318.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_318.png" width="424" height="501" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 270.</span>—Edrom Church. Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>St. Cuthbert’s monks by Gospatrick, Earl of Dunbar, and confirmed, in -1139, by David <small>I.</small> The investiture is in favour of the Prior of -Coldingham.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_319" id="page_319">{319}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_271" id="fig_271"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_319-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_319-a.png" width="405" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 271.</span>—Edrom. Caps of Shafts.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_272" id="fig_272"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_319-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_319-b.png" height="355" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 272.</span>—Edrom. Angle Buttresses.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_273" id="fig_273"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_319-c.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_319-c.png" height="180" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 273.</span>—Edrom. Arms on Buttress.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_274" id="fig_274"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_319-d.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_319-d.png" height="151" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 274.</span>—Edrom. Shield on Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_320" id="page_320">{320}</a></span></p> - -<p>An aisle of some interest is attached to the church. It contains in a -panel occupying the position of a niche on one of the buttresses a -modern inscription giving the history of the aisle, viz.:—“Founded by -Robert Blackadder, Archbishop of Glasgow, in the year 1499.” The only -portions of the aisle still preserved which are of any interest are the -two angle buttresses (<a href="#fig_272">Fig. 272</a>). Both of these have had niches with -canopies and corbels for supporting figures. The canopy of one is gone, -but a sundial occupies its place. The archbishop’s arms and initials -(<a href="#fig_273">Fig. 273</a>) are carved on the buttress. His family name is derived from a -place of the same designation in the parish. Another shield (<a href="#fig_274">Fig. 274</a>), -with arms almost obliterated, occurs a little further west.</p> - -<h3>LEGERWOOD, <span class="smcap">Berwickshire</span>.</h3> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_276" id="fig_276"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_320-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_320-a.png" width="281" height="123" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 276.</span>—Legerwood Church. Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Legerwood stands in the hilly region, about four miles north-east from -Earlston Station. The parish church is old, and has been often repaired. -Attached to it, but entirely cut off by a wall, are the roofless</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_275" id="fig_275"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_320-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_320-b.png" height="182" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 275.</span>—Legerwood Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">ruins of the original Norman chancel (<a href="#fig_275">Fig. 275</a>), which is complete, and -measures internally 17 feet 4 inches square. It is fairly preserved, and -contains some good Norman work. The chancel arch is entire, but is -partly concealed on the face with plaster, and the ingoing is entirely -hidden by the stone wall, which separates the chancel from the church. -There is a 10 inch diameter round shaft in each internal angle, which is -continued up as high as the walls, but there are no indications of -vaulting. A small round-headed window, 9 inches wide, is introduced in -the centre of the east and north sides (<a href="#fig_276">Fig. 276</a>), and apparently a -doorway has existed in the south wall. The chancel arch has been large, -being about 14 feet 8 inches wide,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_321" id="page_321">{321}</a></span> including the columns, and is -enriched with shafts and carving; but, unfortunately, it is so built up -that only portions are visible. The caps and mouldings, so far as they -can be seen, are shown in Fig. 277. The</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_277" id="fig_277"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_321-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_321-a.png" width="374" height="199" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 277.</span>—Legerwood Church. Caps.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">ornament consists largely of square facets, with various forms of -sinkings. A small recess, 11 inches deep, 15 inches wide, and 17 inches -high, which occurs in the north wall, is</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_278" id="fig_278"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_321-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_321-b.png" height="247" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 278.</span>—Legerwood Church. Recess in North Wall.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">shown in Fig. 278. It has not been fitted with a door.</p> - -<p>Masons’ marks are distinctly chiselled on the stones of the chancel. -Throughout the chancel there are clear indications of coloured -decorations, consisting of a cross or star in red on a circularly-shaped -ground of white. <a href="#fig_278">Fig. 278</a> shows one on the wall, and another in the -recess.</p> - -<p>Till the Reformation the Church of Legerwood belonged to Paisley Abbey, -to which it was granted in 1163; but “John Priest of Ledgureside” is -found witnessing a charter granted in 1127 by Robert, Bishop of St. -Andrews, in favour of the Priory of Coldingham. The modern church -appears to occupy the site of the original nave, as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_322" id="page_322">{322}</a></span> its east wall and -part of the return of the side walls are old. The nave measures 47 feet -10 inches long by 27 feet 9 inches wide. A piece of stone carved with -Celtic interlaced work is built into the south wall near the west end, -and on the corner there is a double sundial, bearing the initials W. G., -and the date 1682.</p> - -<h3>CHIRNSIDE CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Berwickshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Another fragment of Norman work survives at Chirnside in the doorway of -the ruined church, situated about one mile from Chirnside</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_279" id="fig_279"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_322.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_322.png" height="457" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 279.</span>—Chirnside Church. Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_323" id="page_323">{323}</a></span></p> - -<p>Railway Station. The village stands high, and commands an extensive -view. The church has been much restored, but the ancient Norman walls in -great measure remain. Its size can, therefore, be determined, being 78 -feet in length by 23 feet ½ inch in width. The only architectural -feature remaining is the doorway on the south side. (<a href="#fig_279">Fig. 279.</a>) It is -contained in a shallow projection of 9½ inches, which is 10 feet 2 -inches in breadth. The doorway is 2 feet 10¾ inches wide, and the height -to the lintel is 6 feet 10 inches. The arched head is somewhat peculiar, -consisting of two segmental arches, resting on caps placed at different -levels.</p> - -<p>Each jamb contains two nook shafts (the two outer shafts being modern), -with simple bases and cushion caps, the inner cap being lower than the -outer. A bead runs round the jambs and square lintel, and the tympanum -is plain. Each cap carries an order, the inner order being enriched with -a series of chevrons, and the outer order with mouldings. The soffit in -both orders is plain. The outer order is enclosed in a small label, -which has a break at the termination—a very unusual feature in Norman -work.</p> - -<p>At the sides of the doorway there are remains of a projection, probably -a porch. The church had a western tower, which was taken down in 1750. -It was vaulted in stone.</p> - -<p>The Church of Chirnside, before the Reformation, was under the patronage -of the Collegiate Church of Dunbar. In the taxation of 1176 the -<i>Ecclesia de Chirnesyd</i> is valued at 50 merks. The church is probably -somewhat older than that date.</p> - -<h3>ST. HELEN’S CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Berwickshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The ruins of this church stand in a lonely and lofty situation -overlooking the sea, about three miles eastward from Cockburnspath. The -fabric is now in a greater state of dilapidation than is shown by the -annexed views, which are copied from a sketch by James Drummond, R.S.A., -engraved in the <i>Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of -Scotland</i>.<a name="FNanchor_176_176" id="FNanchor_176_176"></a><a href="#Footnote_176_176" class="fnanchor">[176]</a> It is accompanied by a description and plan by Mr. -Thomas S. Muir, from which it would appear that about the middle of this -century the east gable wall, which was then entire, was taken down, the -stones being used for agricultural purposes, and that most of what is -shown of the chancel arch shared a similar fate. The dimensions can -still be ascertained from the ruins.</p> - -<p>The church (<a href="#fig_280">Fig. 280</a>) was a Norman structure, with the exception of the -west gable wall, and consisted of a nave about 30 feet 9 inches long by -18 feet wide, and a chancel 15 feet 2 inches long by 11 feet 6½ inches<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_324" id="page_324">{324}</a></span> -wide. The total internal length was thus about 48 feet 11 inches. The -building was barrel vaulted throughout. The apertures where the north -and south walls of the nave are shown broken down (see <a href="#fig_280">Fig. 280.</a>) -probably indicate the position of a north and south doorway. There were -two windows</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_280" id="fig_280"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_324-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_324-a.png" width="310" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 280.</span>—St. Helen’s Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">in the south wall, with three shallow arched recesses beneath. (<a href="#fig_281">Fig. -281.</a>) These recesses measure 11 inches deep by about 3 feet high, and -have not been fitted with doors. Their purpose is unknown. The chancel -arch, when entire, measured about 7 feet in width. The stone shown in</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_281" id="fig_281"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_324-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_324-b.png" width="368" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 281.</span>—St. Helen’s Church. View looking East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the foreground of <a href="#fig_281">Fig. 281</a> gives an idea of the section of the jambs of -the arch, only part of which now remains. A broad band connected with -the caps runs along the north and south walls of the nave. The band is -decorated with a circular rosette ornament. As will be seen from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_325" id="page_325">{325}</a></span> this -view, the arch was flanked on each side by a square recessed opening, -similar in position to those at the chancel arch at Tynninghame, but the -recesses at the latter are arched. Beneath each of these there is a -small opening, as shown on view, about 6 inches square, which goes into -the wall for about two feet, but the place is now too ruinous to permit -of the matter being further investigated.</p> - -<p>The north wall of the chancel is almost entire, and has had no opening. -The south wall is nearly all gone, and, as already stated, nothing -remains of the east wall. The narrow east window, with its wide internal -splay, appears to have been set in a recess, and enriched round the arch -and down the jambs with a single chevron ornament.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_282" id="fig_282"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_325.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_325.png" width="371" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 282.</span>—St. Helen’s Church. West Gable Wall.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The west gable wall (<a href="#fig_282">Fig. 282</a>) has been rebuilt in the fourteenth or -fifteenth century. It is without opening of any kind, save the numerous -putlog holes used for the masons’ scaffolding when erecting the -building.</p> - -<p>This was the church of Aldcamus, incorporated before the year 1750 in -the parish of Cockburnspath. The manor of Aldcamus was granted by King -Edgar (1098-1107) to Durham, and “thenceforth belonged to the monastery -of Coldingham, as a cell of Durham.”<a name="FNanchor_177_177" id="FNanchor_177_177"></a><a href="#Footnote_177_177" class="fnanchor">[177]</a> How long after this date the -church was built we do not know; but as Chalmers remarks in a footnote -that it was the manor, not the church, which Edgar granted to Durham, it -may be doubted whether the church then existed. It appears to have -fallen into ruin about the time of its annexation to Cockburnspath.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_326" id="page_326">{326}</a></span></p> - -<h3>TYNNINGHAME CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Haddingtonshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The few relics which survive of this ancient monastery lie buried in a -thick clump of trees, which stands between the modern mansion of -Tynninghame and the river Tyne, about three miles north-east from East -Linton. This was one of the churches dedicated to St. Baldred, of which -there were several on the East Coast. That Saint seems to have selected -the Bass Rock as his place of abode, whence his fame spread through the -adjoining regions. He is believed to have come from the establishment of -the Columbans at Lindisfarne, whose diocese extended as far as the Frith -of Forth. He died in 606. The foundation of Tynninghame was laid by St. -Baldred, or Blathere,<a name="FNanchor_178_178" id="FNanchor_178_178"></a><a href="#Footnote_178_178" class="fnanchor">[178]</a> and the church continued as a separate parish -till 1760, when it was united to Whitekirk.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_283" id="fig_283"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_326.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_326.png" height="284" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 283.</span>—Tynninghame Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>What remains of the structure is of Norman architecture, and exhibits -elaborate ornamental work of that style. The plan of the church (<a href="#fig_283">Fig. -283</a>) is in part still traceable. The west end of the choir, with its -great arch (<a href="#fig_284">Fig. 284</a>), is fairly preserved, and the outline of a -rectangular choir, about 18 feet in length by 17 feet in width, is -observable, although the side walls are greatly demolished.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_327" id="page_327">{327}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_284" id="fig_284"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_327.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_327.png" width="541" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 284.</span>—Tynninghame Church. West End of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_328" id="page_328">{328}</a></span></p> - -<p>The nave, if it ever existed, has entirely disappeared. At the east end -an enriched chancel arch still survives (<a href="#fig_285">Fig. 285</a>), and also portions of -pillars, which indicate that there has been an eastern apse.</p> - -<p>The western arch (see <a href="#fig_284">Fig. 284.</a>) is supported on a series of nook shafts, -some of which are broken away. These carry simply formed caps, with</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_285" id="fig_285"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_328.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_328.png" height="444" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 285.</span>—Tynninghame Church. Arch of Apse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">square abacus, carved with scale work. The arch contains three orders -enriched with ornaments and a label. The first and third orders are -enriched with very elaborate chevron ornaments; the central order has -the billet and the hood mould, a series of small semicircles placed back -to back. An arched recess occurs in the wall at each side of the -central<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_329" id="page_329">{329}</a></span> arch. That on the north side is original, and is ornamented -with the chevron. The arch on the south side has been renewed. It is not -clear what purpose these arches served, but most probably they contained -altars. Arched recesses in this position, although not common, are -sometimes found in Norman churches. The arch of the apse (see <a href="#fig_285">Fig. 285.</a>) -is enriched in three orders, and the caps of the shafts have volutes -(<a href="#fig_286">Fig. 286</a>). Two of the pillars which formed part of the apse survive. -The details of the caps and central band are shown in Fig. 286.</p> - -<p>Many of the smaller ornaments of this structure are very beautiful, and -are well preserved. On the south side (see <a href="#fig_284">Fig. 284.</a>) there remains the -recessed pointed arch of a monument, in which parts of a decayed -recumbent effigy are visible. The three shields on the top give it a -picturesque effect.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_286" id="fig_286"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_329-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_329-a.png" height="281" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 286.</span>—Tynninghame Church. Caps in Apse.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The ruined church is now used as the family mausoleum of the Earls of -Haddington.</p> - -<h3>STOBO CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Peeblesshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This church is situated in the valley of the Tweed, six and a half miles -west from Peebles, and within one mile of Stobo Railway Station. It is</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_287" id="fig_287"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_329-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_329-b.png" width="415" height="200" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 287.</span>—Stobo Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_330" id="page_330">{330}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_288" id="fig_288"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_330.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_330.png" width="628" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 288.</span>—Stobo Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_331" id="page_331">{331}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">a Norman structure, to which some alterations and additions have been -made in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The building is still -used as the parish church. The roof and interior fittings are modern, as -are also the skews and gabled skew putts, of which latter there was no -suggestion in the old work. But the most serious injury inflicted on the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_289" id="fig_289"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_331.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_331.png" height="429" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 289.</span>—Stobo Church. Norman Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">structure was the entire destruction of the Norman chancel arch at the -restoration of the building in 1868, “in order to insert a modern -pointed one.”—(<i>Transactions of the Aberdeen Ecclesiological Society, -1887</i>, p. 6.)</p> - -<p>The building (<a href="#fig_287">Fig. 287</a>) consists of a nave about 40 feet long by 18 feet -7 inches wide, with a chancel about 24 feet 4 inches long by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_332" id="page_332">{332}</a></span> 16 feet -wide, thus making the total interior length about 67 feet 4 inches. -There is a tower at the west end, about 20 feet square over the walls, -and 11 feet by 9 feet 6 inches inside. The tower has originally opened -into the church with what appears to have been a round arch, which is -now partly concealed by a gallery and other erections. This opening has -been reduced in size, as shown on the plan, to a doorway about three -feet wide. The doorway is pointed, and of old date.</p> - -<p>As the whole building is harled or rough cast on the outside and -plastered on the inside, it is impossible to say definitely whether the -tower is Norman or later. The work of the sixteenth and seventeenth -centuries consists of the south porch (<a href="#fig_288">Fig. 288</a>), built up against the -Norman doorway (<a href="#fig_289">Fig. 289</a>), and a north aisle or chapel, which opened -from the nave with a round arch, now built up. This chapel, which is -ruined, was barrel vaulted. The windows in the south wall are also of -this period. The mullions and tracery of those of the nave are modern, -as is also a monument erected against the interior of the east wall, -which may possibly conceal a Norman east window. The four-light window -in the south wall of the chancel (<a href="#fig_290">Fig. 290</a>), although of this late -period, is quaint and pleasing, the small circle in the apex giving it -quite a touch of originality.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_290" id="fig_290"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_332.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_332.png" width="192" height="238" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 290.</span>—Stobo Church. Window in South Wall of -Chancel.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>A round arched recess for a monument in the north side of the chancel -also belongs to this period. It has contained a coat of arms, which is -effaced.</p> - -<p>The original windows in the north side of the chancel remain. The -daylight is about 7 inches wide by about 2 feet high. There has been a -Norman doorway in the north side of the nave. It has a plain arch, and -was probably not unlike the doorway in the opposite wall, which is of -very simple design, with octagonal shafts. The capitals are slightly -mutilated.</p> - -<p>The window to the west of the porch is modern, as are the doorway and -stair in the tower. The latter is of wood, and leads to the gallery -already referred to. There does not appear to have been a stone stair in -the tower. The belfry is late, as is the present tower roof. It is -impossible to say how the tower was originally finished.</p> - -<p>The walls being lined with wood on the inside, the usual fittings are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_333" id="page_333">{333}</a></span> -concealed, the only feature visible being the locker, shown on Plan, -near the east end. It is widely splayed in the ingoing, and is not -Norman. The south chancel door is probably of the period of the -adjoining windows.</p> - -<p>Stobo Church, like most of the churches of Peeblesshire, “belonged to -the diocese of Glasgow at the epoch of Earl David’s Inquisitio in 1116, -and both the church and manor were confirmed to that see, by several -bulls of successive Popes, in the twelfth century.” In Bagimont’s Roll -(1275) it is mentioned as the “Rectoria de Stobo” and the “Vicaria de -Stobo.”<a name="FNanchor_179_179" id="FNanchor_179_179"></a><a href="#Footnote_179_179" class="fnanchor">[179]</a> It was the church of a <i>Plebania</i>,<a name="FNanchor_180_180" id="FNanchor_180_180"></a><a href="#Footnote_180_180" class="fnanchor">[180]</a> having subordinate -churches or chaplainries within its territory, over which its priest, -who was styled dean, exercised a certain authority. There were four -subordinate parishes—viz., Broughton, Dowie, Drummelzier, and -Tweedsmuir. In 1116 the rectory of Stobo was converted into the valuable -prebend of Tweeddale in Glasgow Cathedral.</p> - -<h3>DUDDINGSTON CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Mid-Lothian</span>.</h3> - -<p>This ancient Norman edifice has formed the place of worship for the -locality since the twelfth century, and is still used as the parish -church. It is picturesquely situated on the north side of Duddingston -Loch,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_291" id="fig_291"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_333.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_333.png" width="363" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 291.</span>—Duddingston Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">immediately under the south side of Arthur’s Seat, and within a mile of -Edinburgh.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_334" id="page_334">{334}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_292" id="fig_292"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_334.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_334.png" width="589" height="402" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 292.</span>—Duddingston Church. From South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_335" id="page_335">{335}</a></span></p> - -<p>The structure has undergone many alterations during the six centuries of -its existence, but still retains its original Norman character to a -greater extent than at first sight might be supposed; indeed, it is one -of the best preserved examples we have in Scotland, although the -introduction of a</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_293" id="fig_293"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_335.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_335.png" width="315" height="430" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 293.</span>—Duddingston Church. South Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">few prominent features in later times, such as the windows and -buttresses, have somewhat detracted from its antique appearance.</p> - -<p>The building appears to have originally consisted of a nave and chancel; -if it had a tower, it must have been of smaller dimensions than the -present one, as the base of the west wall abuts against the side walls<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_336" id="page_336">{336}</a></span> -of the present tower instead of returning along it, as it would -otherwise in all likelihood have done.</p> - -<p>The nave (<a href="#fig_291">Fig. 291</a>) measures about 33 feet 4 inches long, and was -probably about 19 feet wide inside. The chancel is about square, being -16 feet 1½ inch from east to west by 15 feet 6 inches wide, the total -inside length of the church being 52 feet 9 inches.</p> - -<p>On the outside a series of pilaster buttresses divided the nave into -four bays; these still exist along the south side, measuring about 2 -feet on the face, and having a projection of 9 inches, with a large base -returned round them. To these pilasters massive buttresses (<a href="#fig_292">Fig. 292</a>) -projecting three feet have been added. At the corners of the church the -original angle pilasters remain unaltered. The old doorway in the west -bay of the south side (<a href="#fig_293">Fig. 293</a>) still continues unchanged, except that -it</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_294" id="fig_294"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_336.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_336.png" height="201" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 294.</span>—Duddingston Church.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">is built up, and has an incongruous granite slab occupying the whole -space. The opening of the doorway is about 4 feet 2 inches wide. The -arch is richly sculptured with the chevron in two orders, the inner -order being supported on shafts decorated with the chevron in a manner -not found, we think, anywhere else in Scotland. On one of these shafts -there are two sculptured scenes. The upper one represents the -Crucifixion. (See <a href="#fig_293">Fig. 293.</a>) The lower one (<a href="#fig_294">Fig. 294</a>) shows a figure -holding aloft a drawn sword; beside the sword, in the shade where the -shaft disappears at the jamb, there is what looks like a key, possibly -the symbol of St. Peter, so that the subject may be the incident of -cutting off the ear of the High Priest.</p> - -<p>The chancel arch (<a href="#fig_295">Fig. 295</a>) is the only Norman feature now remaining in -the interior. It is in two orders, having on the outer order the usual -chevron ornament, with a notched hood moulding similar to what is found -at Dunfermline. The inner order has a bold bead on the edge. The arch is -quite plain on its inner face towards the chancel. It is carried by -three semi-shafts (<a href="#fig_296">Fig. 296</a>), with cushion caps and simple bases. The -abacus has been carved with facets.</p> - -<p>On the exterior of the chancel there occur on the north and south sides -(see <a href="#fig_292">Fig. 292.</a>) characteristic Norman corbels supporting the wall-head -parapet. These consist generally of the usual bridled heads and -monstrous faces, but they are now very weather-worn.</p> - -<p>The north wall of the nave has been taken down and a north aisle added -(see Plan), apparently in the year 1631, as that date (<a href="#fig_297">Fig. 297</a>) is -carved on a window lintel of the east wall. In the north gable of this -aisle there are two traceried windows, somewhat after the style of the -Perpendicular Period. (<a href="#fig_298">Fig. 298.</a>) It will be observed that the mouldings -of the loop form of the tracery do not mitre with the arch mouldings.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_337" id="page_337">{337}</a></span></p> - -<p>At a later period a central window, without tracery, has been placed in -the north wall of the aisle. It corresponds exactly with the windows</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_295" id="fig_295"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_337.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_337.png" width="401" height="517" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 295.</span>—Duddingston Church. Chancel Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">seen in the south side, and with the one in the east wall of the -chancel, judging from which it was probably at this later period that -all the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_338" id="page_338">{338}</a></span> present windows, seen in Fig. 292, were inserted. The original -windows were, doubtless, the usual small windows found in Norman -churches, and when they came to be enlarged, the builders probably -increased the buttresses to compensate for the weakening of the wall, -and added the conical finials on them and on the gables (see <a href="#fig_292">Fig. 292.</a>). -It is obvious that to this period also the upper part of the tower -belongs. The lower part of the tower, although not of the original -structure, is, we are inclined to think, of considerable antiquity; it -opens into the church with a plain, round arch. The staircase shown in -it and on the north aisle lead to galleries.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_296" id="fig_296"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_338-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_338-a.png" width="93" height="49" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 296.</span></p> - -<p>Jamb of Chancel Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_297" id="fig_297"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_338-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_338-b.png" width="185" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 297.</span></p> - -<p>Lintel in East Wall, North Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_298" id="fig_298"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_338-c.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_338-c.png" width="132" height="182" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 298.</span></p> - -<p>Window in North Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>During the reign of William the Lion (1165-1214) the church and lands of -Dodin-ston were acquired by the Abbey of Kelso, but from whom they were -acquired is not known. There were several persons of the name of Dodin, -but the one who gave his name to this place does not appear to be known. -But there was a “Hugo filius Dodini de Dodines-tun” who witnessed a -charter to the Canons of Holyrood in the time of William the Lion -(Dalrymple <i>Collection</i>, Pref. lxvii.; also, <i>Caledonia</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. -791.)</p> - -<p>In 1296 John Combale, the vicar of Dodinestun, swore fealty to Edward <small>I.</small></p> - -<p>In the ancient <i>Taxatio</i> (end of twelfth century), Duddingston Church is -rated at twenty-five merks.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_339" id="page_339">{339}</a></span></p> - -<h3>ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Gullane, Haddingtonshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The village of Gullane lies in the parish of Dirleton, about four miles -north-west from Drem Station, and half-a-mile from the sea.</p> - -<p>The old church of St. Andrew is now a roofless ruin, thickly clad with -ivy, and standing in the middle of the ancient churchyard. The church -was bestowed early in the thirteenth century on Dryburgh Abbey by Sir -William de Vaux, and in 1446 it was erected into a collegiate -institution by Sir Walter de Haliburton. Both these knights were the -proprietors of the Castle of Dirleton in the vicinity.</p> - -<p>The structure (<a href="#fig_299">Fig. 299</a>) consisted of nave and chancel, the chancel -being entered from the nave by a semicircular chancel arch, almost the -only remnant of the edifice of the twelfth century which survives.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_299" id="fig_299"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_339.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_339.png" width="266" height="134" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 299.</span>—Gullane Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The chancel as it now stands is 35 feet in length by 15 feet 6 inches in -width internally. The eastern portion is a comparatively recent -addition, and has a square east wall, but it is believed that the -chancel formerly terminated towards the east with an apse. Part of the -old south wall of the chancel, extending to about 20 feet in length, -still remains. It contains two pointed windows, with late mouldings on -the exterior, probably fragments of the restoration of the fifteenth -century, at the time when the church was made collegiate. These windows -have been reduced to mere slits by being built up with slabs in the -interior. This filling up was probably inserted when the place was -converted into a burial-ground for a private family, in order to prevent -entrance through the windows.</p> - -<p>The south wall of the nave is still about 72 feet in length, but the -north wall is reduced to about 43 feet long. The west end is gone, and -the nave has been divided up into private burial-places. The windows -which remain in the south wall of the nave have been much altered in -Presbyterian times, having had flat lintels, &c., introduced.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_340" id="page_340">{340}</a></span></p> - -<p>The chancel archway (<a href="#fig_300">Fig. 300</a>, <a href="#fig_301">301</a>) is 8 feet in width. It has square -jambs on both sides of the wall, and a central half shaft on each jamb -of the opening. The caps of these shafts (see <a href="#fig_301">Fig. 301.</a>) are fairly -preserved, and</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_300" id="fig_300"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_340.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_340.png" height="482" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 300.</span>—Gullane Church. West Side of Chancel Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_341" id="page_341">{341}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">show a form of volutes, with a cabled necking and a three-sided abacus, -which was continued as a string course along the walls on each side.</p> - -<p>The arch has been built up, but the two plain orders of the east side -are visible, and the outer order on the west side (<a href="#fig_300">Fig. 300</a>), carved -with a bold chevron and finished with a three-sided hood, is well -preserved. There can be no doubt as to this part of the structure being -of Norman origin, and the north wall of the nave has a three-sided -string course, which seems to indicate the same date, but the remainder -of the structure</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_301" id="fig_301"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_341.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_341.png" width="384" height="336" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 301.</span>—Gullane Church. East Side of Chancel Arch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">has been greatly altered. The earth inside the choir has been filled up -to near the caps of the chancel arch. A round arch in the north wall of -the chancel appears to belong to a side door at the original level of -the floor.</p> - -<p>An “aisle” or wing has been built out to the north from the nave. It has -been entered by a large semicircular arch from the nave, and has had a -large north window, but these openings are now built up. This erection -seems to be of about the time of the Reformation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_342" id="page_342">{342}</a></span></p> - -<h3>UPHALL CHURCH, AND ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Strathbroc, Linlithgowshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The Church of Uphall is a Norman structure throughout, and consists of -nave, chancel, and a western tower. It has been subjected to various</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_302" id="fig_302"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_342-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_342-a.png" width="289" height="141" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 302.</span>—Uphall Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">alterations and extensions, but the original plan is still perfectly -clear, and is shown by Fig. 302, which ignores the changes, except the -addition of the south aisle or wing. The building has no side aisles.</p> - -<p>The nave measures about 35 feet long by 15 feet wide, and the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_303" id="fig_303"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_342-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_342-b.png" height="279" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 303.</span>—Uphall Church. Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_343" id="page_343">{343}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">chancel 30 feet 6 inches long by 13 feet wide. The doorway (<a href="#fig_303">Fig. 303</a>) is -in the usual place at the west end of the south front. It is of Norman -design, having a nook shaft at each side, with cushion cap and plain -square abacus. The arch is round, and has two orders, the inner order -being square edged, and the outer composed of mouldings, and having a -moulded label. It is probable there was some piece of carving beneath -the arch, or else the square lintel is an alteration. A stoup adjoining -in the south wall has a pointed opening, and probably dates from the -fifteenth century. There is another doorway opposite in the north wall, -which is perfectly plain, and, so far as it can be seen, it appears to -be original; but, as the lower parts of the walls are covered with wood -boarding, other requisites which may exist, such as ambries and piscina, -are concealed. None of the windows are original, so far, at least, as -they are seen on the exterior, and the whole masonry on the inside is -covered. The east window in the south wall (<a href="#fig_304">Fig. 304</a>) has a horizontal -arched lintel, with radiating joints, and probably dates from late in -the fifteenth century. It is impossible to say whether there were -windows in the east wall or not, and, as regards the north wall, it has -nearly all been taken down between the west door and the chancel arch, -in order to admit a modern addition. The chancel arch itself has been -taken away, and the</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_304" id="fig_304"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_343.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_343.png" height="234" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 304.</span>—Uphall Church. Window in South Wall.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">wall above removed, and the place occupied by it has been filled up with -lath and plaster, and slated on the outside.</p> - -<p>The western tower (<a href="#fig_305">Fig. 305</a>) has been appropriated as the burial-place -of the Buchan family; so that it now forms no part of the church. It is -entered by a fanciful Norman door in the west end. The windows in the -tower are all modern, and so, we need hardly say, is the belfry. The -upper part of the tower has been rebuilt at a late period, probably -during the fifteenth century alteration.</p> - -<p>The south aisle probably dates from the seventeenth century, and was -built by the Shairp family, whose mansion house of Houston is in the -neighbourhood. It is now partly used as their burial aisle, and is a -quaint structure, forming an agreeable contrast to the modern additions.</p> - -<p>The parish of Uphall was formerly called Strathbroc, and at this place, -near the modern mansion of Kirkhill, and about one mile east from -Uphall, stood the old parish church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, which -was abandoned in the sixteenth century, when the Church of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_344" id="page_344">{344}</a></span> Uphall -became the parish church. What kind of building it was before this does -not appear to be known. The Rev. Mr. Primrose, who has devoted much -attention to the antiquities of the locality, suggests that it was the -chapel of some order of monks.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_305" id="fig_305"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_344.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_344.png" width="411" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 305.</span>—Uphall Church. Western Tower and South Wing.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Of the Church of Strathbroc only two relics now remain. The one is the -font (<a href="#fig_306">Fig. 306</a>), of which the basin only is old. It was rescued from the -adjoining farm steading, where it served a useful, if not dignified, -purpose, and placed on its present base, and now stands in the Roman -Catholic Church of Broxburn. It is octagonal in shape, and contains -(<a href="#fig_307">Fig. 307</a>) the letters M· and IHS·, repeated twice. Two of the faces -bear the inscriptions</p> -<table> -<tr class="c"><td>STA</td></tr> -<tr class="c"><td>ECCLESIA·</td></tr> -</table> <p class="nind">and NICOLAS·, and two faces are -vacant.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_345" id="page_345">{345}</a></span></p> - -<p>The other relic of St. Nicholas is the bell which now rings in the -parish church of Uphall. It contains the inscription “Campanum Sancti -Nicholai de Strathbroke, 1441.”<a name="FNanchor_181_181" id="FNanchor_181_181"></a><a href="#Footnote_181_181" class="fnanchor">[181]</a> Mr. Primrose states that the bell -was recast in 1503, and contains the Seton arms—Kirkhill at this period -belonging to that family.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_306" id="fig_306"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_345-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_345-a.png" width="258" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 306.</span>—Strathbroc Church. Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_307" id="fig_307"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_345-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_345-b.png" width="408" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 307.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_346" id="page_346">{346}</a></span></p> - -<h3>ABERCORN, <span class="smcap">Linlithgowshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The ancient church of Æbbercurnig, or Abercorn, lies in a sheltered spot -amidst the fine woods surrounding the grounds of Hopetoun House, about -three miles west from Queensferry.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_308" id="fig_308"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_346-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_346-a.png" width="120" height="145" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 308.</span>—Abercorn Church. South Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>It is believed that when the Northumbrian kingdom was extended to the -Forth in the seventh century, a church was founded here in 675, under -St. Wilfrid, as a central point from which to superintend the northern -part of his diocese. Under Trumuini, this church became the see of the -earliest bishopric in Scotland, during the years from 681 to 685. But -the victory of the Picts over the Northumbrians at Dunichen caused the -latter to retire from Lothian, and drove the monks back to Whitby. The -site, however, continued to be occupied by a church, and part of the -existing structure belongs to the Norman period. It has been very -greatly altered in modern times—so much so, that a round-headed doorway -(<a href="#fig_308">Fig. 308</a>) in the south wall is now almost the only portion remaining -which can be</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_309" id="fig_309"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_346-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_346-b.png" width="414" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 309.</span>—Abercorn Church. From South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">identified as of Norman date. This Norman doorway has the usual nook -shafts, with cushion caps, and the lintel within the round arch is -square. The tympanum is filled with stones, arranged in zig-zag -patterns, and is one of the few examples in Scotland of a tympanum -filled with a shield containing ornament of any kind.</p> - -<p>Several burial-places have been added on the south side of the church<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_347" id="page_347">{347}</a></span> -since Reformation times. (<a href="#fig_309">Fig. 309.</a>) These can generally be identified -by the coats of arms they bear.</p> - -<p>To the north-east of the church there has been erected, probably in the -eighteenth century, a house of two stories as a place for the lord of -the manor, from which he obtained access to his private gallery, erected -about that time at the east end of the choir, which it still disfigures.</p> - -<p>In the churchyard there are many interesting tombstones, and amongst -them are two stone monuments of rather unusual form. (<a href="#fig_310">Fig. 310.</a>)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_310" id="fig_310"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_347.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_347.png" width="267" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 310.</span>—Abercorn Church. Monuments.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>These consist of solid stones, doubtless intended to be laid over -graves, triangular in section, with the ridge rising to the centre. One -has the sides carved with figures of fish-scale pattern, arranged in -rows; the other has the scales of a squarer shape. The ends are broken. -They are good specimens of the hog-backed form of tombstones.</p> - -<h3>KELSO ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Roxburghshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>In 1113, David, Earl of Huntingdon, introduced thirteen Reformed -Benedictine monks from Tiron, in France (hence called Tironenses), and -settled them at Selkirk, near his castle there. But the place was not -found suitable, and in 1128, after David had become king, the monks, -with the consent of the Bishop of Glasgow, were removed to Kelso, where -they were established near the royal castle of Roxburgh. The foundation -of the new abbey was laid in 1128, and the church was dedicated to the -blessed Virgin Mary and St. John the Evangelist. The monastery soon -became the richest and most powerful in Scotland. In 1165 the Pope -granted permission to the abbot to wear the mitre, and the abbot claimed -precedence of all the superiors of monasteries in Scotland. But in 1420 -this precedence was decided by James <small>I.</small> in favour of the Prior of St. -Andrews. Many of the abbots of Kelso were men of learning and celebrity, -and were employed in important offices in and out of the kingdom, and -others were promoted to bishoprics.</p> - -<p>During the War of Independence the abbey, which lay near the Border, -suffered severely. The monastery was laid waste, and the monks were -supported by contributions from the other houses of the order. In 1344, -the buildings of the abbey having been destroyed by fire, David <small>II.</small> -granted permission to the monks to cut wood in Selkirk and Jedwart -Forest, to enable them to carry out the necessary reparations.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_348" id="page_348">{348}</a></span></p> - -<p>In 1511 the abbacy passed into the hands of the Bishop of Caithness, as -commendator, and its decline soon followed. After the Battle of Flodden, -in 1513, David Ker of Cessford took possession of the abbey, and had his -brother made abbot. In 1522-3 invasion and havoc spread over Teviotdale. -Lords Ross and Dacre pillaged the town, sparing the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_311" id="fig_311"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_348.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_348.png" width="438" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 311.</span>—Kelso Abbey. Ground Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">abbey; but in 1523 Lord Dacre sacked and burned it. The abbot’s house -and buildings surrounding it, the Chapel of the Virgin, and the cells of -the dormitory were all reduced to ashes; the lead was stripped from the -roof, and the abbey rendered uninhabitable. All religious services were -stopped, and the monks had to retire in want and poverty to a village<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_349" id="page_349">{349}</a></span> -near. From 1536 till 1558 James Stewart, natural son of James <small>V.</small>, filled -the office of abbot, and drew the revenues. In 1542 the Duke of Norfolk,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_312" id="fig_312"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_349.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_349.png" height="556" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 312.</span>—Kelso Abbey. South Side of Chancel and South -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_350" id="page_350">{350}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">and in 1545 the Earl of Hertford, again attacked and further destroyed -the monastery. On the latter occasion the defenders sought refuge in the -tower, which they defended till darkness enabled some of them to escape. -The shattered walls seem still to have afforded some shelter; but they</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_313" id="fig_313"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_350.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_350.png" width="405" height="453" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 313.</span>—Kelso Abbey. From South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">were again still further reduced by Lord Eure in 1546. Finally, in 1560, -when a few monks still remained, the buildings were attacked by the mob, -and all the remaining fittings and furnishings destroyed. In 1559 the -revenues and property of the abbey had been taken possession of by the -Lords of the Congregation in the name of the Crown.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_351" id="page_351">{351}</a></span></p> - -<p>These were afterwards distributed amongst the favourites of James <small>VI.</small>, -and were finally conferred on Sir Robert Ker of Cessford, who was -created</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_314" id="fig_314"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_351.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_351.png" height="541" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 314.</span>—Kelso Abbey. Crossing and North Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_352" id="page_352">{352}</a></span></p> - -<p>Lord Roxburgh in 1599. The abbey still belongs to his successor, the -Duke of Roxburgh, and the remains of the late Duke are buried in the -south transept.</p> - -<p>In 1649 a vault was thrown over the transept, so as to convert it into a -parish church, and above this another vault served as a prison. This is -shown in Grose’s view, made a century ago.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_315" id="fig_315"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_352.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_352.png" width="445" height="406" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 315.</span>—Kelso Abbey. From West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>During service on a Sunday in 1771, a panic was caused by the fall of a -fragment of cement, and the church was thereafter abandoned. The ruins -were partly disencumbered by the Duke of Roxburgh, 1805-16, and in 1823 -the buildings were repaired by the noblemen and gentlemen of the -county.<a name="FNanchor_182_182" id="FNanchor_182_182"></a><a href="#Footnote_182_182" class="fnanchor">[182]</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_353" id="page_353">{353}</a></span></p> - -<p>After the many batterings and the long neglect the abbey church has -endured, it is astonishing to find even the fragments which still exist.</p> - -<p>The edifice has consisted (<a href="#fig_311">Fig. 311</a>) of a choir or chancel of -considerable length, with north and south aisles, and of a transept and -nave, without aisles. The north and south divisions of the transept and -the nave form three arms of equal length round the three sides of the -crossing, above which rises the massive square tower.</p> - -<p>The church has been originally constructed in the late Norman style of -about the end of the twelfth century, passing into the transition style; -but the upper part of the tower has been rebuilt at a later period.</p> - -<p>A portion of each of the departments of the church survives, but in the -case of the chancel there remains only a fragment. The chancel is the -only part which had aisles, but these have now entirely disappeared; and -of the chancel itself, all that remains (<a href="#fig_312">Fig. 312</a>) is two of the south -main piers, with their arches, and two stories of arcades above, which -represent the triforium and clerestory. This arrangement is peculiar, -and the effect is striking.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_316" id="fig_316"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_353.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_353.png" height="235" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 316.</span>—Kelso Abbey. West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The main piers consist of a circular column, five feet in diameter, with -smaller attached half-columns on three sides to carry the moulded arches -between the main piers and the arches between the latter and the aisles. -The piers have caps of the usual Norman modified cushion pattern, and -the arches were moulded and arranged in several orders. The arcade -immediately over the main arches has a row of single round shafts, with -spreading Norman caps, which carry a series of moulded arches, occupying -the position of the triforium. The upper arcade, which takes the place -of the clerestory, has shafts of triple form, with wide-spreading bases -and caps of Norman and transition design. On the latter rest the round -boldly-moulded arches. The arches opposite the windows in the outer wall -are slightly larger than the others. It will be observed that there is -no main vaulting shaft carried up over the main piers, as is almost -invariably the case, for the purpose of strengthening the wall. On the -contrary, the triforium arcade<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_354" id="page_354">{354}</a></span> is continuous, and no provision is made -to support the side wall, except the single shafts of the running -arcade, which have a very weak effect. In the usual arrangement the -triforium arches are separated by a substantial piece of wall, including -a vaulting shaft, and the triforium arch, which is generally subdivided -into several subordinate arches, is introduced between the vaulting -shafts.</p> - -<p>That is a much more substantial form of construction, and also more -satisfactory to the eye, than the plan adopted here of a simple -continuous arcade.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_317" id="fig_317"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_354.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_354.png" width="192" height="411" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 317.</span>—Kelso Abbey. North End of Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The clerestory is designed on the same principle as the triforium, and -consists of a continuous arcade, without the interruption of the -vaulting shafts.</p> - -<p>In the view of the exterior of this portion of the choir (<a href="#fig_313">Fig. 313</a>), the -outside of the windows of the clerestory is visible, being simple -round-headed openings, with flat buttresses between them. The remainder -of the wall is plain, but, judging from the level of the triforium -window, the vaulting of the aisle, which was very high, and partly -covered the windows, seems to have been added at a later date. The choir -was 28 feet in width from centre to centre of the piers, only two of -which survive.</p> - -<p>The crossing is square, and measures 28 feet from centre to centre of -the piers; but of these the north-east one is wanting. The piers are -about nine feet square, that at the south-east angle standing detached -in consequence of the opening into the south aisle, while those at the -north-west and south-west angles are incorporated with the walls.</p> - -<p>The piers are designed as a series of shafts set in square nooks (four -on each of the complete sides), with a larger semicircular shaft at each -angle. (See Figs. <a href="#fig_312">312</a> and <a href="#fig_314">314</a>.) The shafts are all built in courses with -the piers. They have transition bases and caps. From<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_355" id="page_355">{355}</a></span> the latter spring -large pointed arches, with plain chamfered orders. The pointed arch -indicates the transitional character of this part of the building. It -was probably introduced in this position to give strength to sustain the -tower.</p> - -<p>As already mentioned, the three arms of the cross branching to the -north, south, and west from the crossing are of equal size. This is a</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_318" id="fig_318"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_355.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_355.png" height="382" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 318.</span>—Kelso Abbey. Doorway of North Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">very unusual arrangement, the western arm or nave being generally much -the longest division of the church. We have not heard any satisfactory -explanation given of the shortness of the nave of Kelso. This -arrangement of plan has apparently been part of the original design, as -the western doorway (<a href="#fig_315">Figs. 315</a> and <a href="#fig_316">316</a>) is one of the most prominently -Norman portions of the edifice. The upper part of the west front (see<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_356" id="page_356">{356}</a></span> -<a href="#fig_315">Fig. 315.</a>), although much broken away, has been in the transition style; -while the Norman arcading, which runs round the interior of the nave, -was continued across the west end.</p> - -<p>The nave and the north and south transept each measure about 22 feet in -width by 18 feet in length. Each contains four stories in height (Figs. -<a href="#fig_315">315</a> and <a href="#fig_317">317</a>), consisting of an interlacing arcade of Norman work in the -interior of the ground level, and three stories of windows above. The -upper arcades of the choir do not extend round the nave and transepts, -except in a portion of the south transept. (See <a href="#fig_312">Fig. 312.</a>) Another -arrangement was found desirable in those portions where there were no -aisles, as windows could be obtained in that case; while, with aisles -(as in the choir), the first floor was darkened by the roof of the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_319" id="fig_319"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_356.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_356.png" width="385" height="234" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 319.</span>—Kelso Abbey. Plan of Doorway in North -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">aisles. The windows in the different stories of the nave and transept -have all round arches, both outside (see <a href="#fig_315">Fig. 315.</a>) and inside, the -former having one plain square-edged order supported on nook shafts. Of -these the caps and bases only are now for the most part in existence. -The exterior is marked at each angle by broad and shallow Norman -buttresses, with nook shafts in the angles, and an interlacing arcade -running round the lower story, both internally and externally.</p> - -<p>In the façades of the west end and north transept the windows of the -different stories have been grouped so as to form distinct designs. In -the west end, over the great west doorway (see <a href="#fig_315">Fig. 315.</a>), there has been -an arrangement of tall windows of apparently lancet form, having on -either side an interlacing arcade of round arches, supported<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_357" id="page_357">{357}</a></span> on tall -banded shafts. This is now, unfortunately, greatly destroyed. Above the -arcade there runs a horizontal flat cornice, enriched with several rows -of carved ornaments, and this was surmounted by a large opening of -quatrefoil shape, surrounded with numerous mouldings and enrichments. -The angle buttresses have been crowned with octagonal turrets.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_320" id="fig_320"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_357.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_357.png" width="424" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 320.</span>—Kelso Abbey. Section through Transept from -North to South.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The north wall of the north transept (see <a href="#fig_317">Fig. 317.</a>) has a fine -transition door-piece (<a href="#fig_318">Fig. 318</a>), which occupies the two lower stories. -The next two stories have two windows in each, separated by a small -buttress, the upper one of these stories having three arches in the -interior. (See <a href="#fig_314">Fig. 314.</a>) Above these stories is a small circular -window, with a curious saving arch over it, and the whole is crowned -with a top story,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_358" id="page_358">{358}</a></span> containing three round-headed openings, and a gable -with a small circular aperture. The buttresses at the angles are crowned -with circular turrets, which have been finished with a projecting -parapet, the corbels for carrying which still survive. The upper part of -the gable shows signs of having been altered.</p> - -<p>It may be pointed out that the west front and the façade of the north -transept are good illustrations of the Norman and Transition styles</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_321" id="fig_321"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_358.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_358.png" width="440" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 321.</span>—Kelso Abbey. Plan at Triforium Level, showing -Passages in Walls, &c.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of designing such elevations. The north transept shows the early manner -of dividing the façade into several stories, piled one above the other; -while the west front, which is chiefly in the transition style, -indicates the beginning of the later form of façade, in which the whole -front is treated as a single design.</p> - -<p>The west doorway and the north door-piece are especially interest<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_359" id="page_359">{359}</a></span>ing. -The former is a remarkably rich specimen of the elaborate carved work -which characterised the late Norman period. Unfortunately, the south -half of this door-piece has perished. But, from what remains (see <a href="#fig_315">Fig. -315.</a>), it is evident that it consisted of a large door-piece, or -quasi-porch, projecting upwards of 5 feet, and finished with a sloping -gable, with</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_322" id="fig_322"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_359.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_359.png" width="426" height="415" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 322.</span>—Kelso Abbey. Plan at Clerestory Level, showing -Passages in Walls, &c.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">stone roof. The jambs (see <a href="#fig_316">Fig. 316.</a>) contained five detached shafts set -in nooks, and having Norman bases and carved caps. Over each of these -shafts there springs a circular order, carved with rich Norman ornament, -now, however, very much decayed. The jambs of the doorway also formed -moulded shafts, supporting their order in the arch.</p> - -<p>The door-piece in the north wall of the transept (see <a href="#fig_318">Fig. 318.</a>) is also<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_360" id="page_360">{360}</a></span> -a prominent feature. It projects about 4 feet 6 inches from the main -wall, is carried up two stories, and is roofed in with a sloping stone -roof.</p> - -<p>The lower story contains the doorway (<a href="#fig_319">Fig. 319</a>), which is 5 feet 6 -inches wide, and has plain jambs. It is set back about 3 feet 6 inches, -and the ingoing for about 2 feet is square, and contains two shafts of -ordinary size, with a small one between them; then follows a nook -containing a shaft, and then the jamb. The shafts have the usual Norman -caps and bases. The mouldings of the arch (see enlarged outline in <a href="#fig_319">Fig. -319.</a>) are peculiar in their profile. They are enriched—the outer one -with small medallions, the central one with the billet, and the inner -one with rosettes. Above the archway there is an arcade of interlacing -round arches, the shafts, which are gone, having Norman caps. The -tympanum of the gable is covered with a reticulation of round beads or -rolls.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_323" id="fig_323"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_360.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_360.png" width="366" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 323.</span>—Kelso Abbey. Upper Stages of Tower.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The tower (see Figs. 315 and 320), of which the south and west sides and -a small portion of the north and east sides remain, is 35 feet square -over the walls. It is carried up with plain masonry externally, but the -interior has immediately over the great arches of the crossing an arcade -of round moulded arches, supported on triple shafts similar to those of -the choir. Above this arcade is another story containing simple round -arched openings, which are lighted on the exterior by circular windows -containing quatrefoils. Over this tier is the top story, which contains -three pointed and deeply-recessed windows on each side of the tower. -Broad flat buttresses are placed at each angle of the tower, similar to -those of the main building, and these were, no doubt, originally -finished with turrets like those of the transepts.</p> - -<p>It has already been said that the upper part of the tower is later than -the lower part. This is apparent from the pointed windows of the top -story, and the quatrefoiled circular windows of the story beneath. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_361" id="page_361">{361}</a></span> -lower story immediately over the great arches is, without doubt, of -about the same date as the choir.</p> - -<p>The approach to the upper floors is now by one staircase in the -north-west angle of the transept, but there were, doubtless, other -similar staircases in parts of the structure now removed. This staircase -gives access to passages which run round the building on every floor -(<a href="#fig_321">Figs. 321</a> and <a href="#fig_322">322</a>) between the arcades and the outer walls. In the -angles of the tower there are small wheel stairs leading to every floor, -and passages running round the tower on every story (<a href="#fig_323">Fig. 323.</a>) These -arcades and passages have tended to weaken the structure, which it has -been found necessary to strengthen with numerous iron tie-rods, iron -beams, &c.</p> - -<p>There was an outer door in the south-west angle of the transept, and -another in the north wall of the nave adjoining the crossing.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_324" id="fig_324"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_361.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_361.png" width="408" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 324.</span>—Kelso Abbey. Caps and Enrichments of Arcade.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The style of the caps of the arcade on the ground floor (<a href="#fig_324">Fig. 324</a>) is -somewhat florid and unusual. The interlacing arches are also in some -places much carved and ornamented, and some portions are wonderfully -well preserved.</p> - -<p>A recess for a tomb is seen in the south wall of the transept (see <a href="#fig_312">Fig. -312.</a>), and in the recess beneath there are two ambries or lockers and a -piscina, the only one remaining in the building.</p> - -<p>To the south of the transept there is a vaulted chamber, 26 feet long by -10 feet 6 inches wide, which may have been the sacristy. It has a wide -entrance from the west, and an arcade with detached shafts and round -arches has run along each side. There has been a window at the east end, -and in the north-east angle a passage leading at a doorway to the -exterior, and also probably into the church.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_362" id="page_362">{362}</a></span></p> - -<h3>ST. MARTIN’S CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Haddington</span>.</h3> - -<p>This ruined structure stands on a slightly-elevated site at the east end -of the Nungate, a suburb of the town of Haddington, on the right bank of -the Tyne. The Nungate is joined to the town by an ancient bridge of -three wide arches and two smaller ones. St. Martin’s belonged to the -Abbey or Nunnery of Haddington, which was situated about one mile to the -east of the town. The nunnery was founded in 1178 by Ada, Countess of -Northumberland, widow of Prince Henry (son of David <small>I.</small>), and mother of -Malcolm <small>IV.</small> and William the Lion. The abbey is now entirely demolished, -and not a stone of it remains. St.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_325" id="fig_325"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_362.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_362.png" width="372" height="235" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 325.</span>—St. Martin’s, Haddington. Plan.</p><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 325.</span>—St. Martin’s, Haddington. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Martin’s Chapel is the only ecclesiastical structure connected with it -which still survives. In 1567 the prioress, with consent of the chapter, -disponed the greater part of the lands of the abbey, which were -conferred by Queen Mary on William Maitland of Lethington.</p> - -<p>The chapel has all the appearance of being very ancient, “and probably -existed as a church when Alexander de St. Martin gave over to the -prioress and nuns his lands and tenements of St. Martinsgate.”<a name="FNanchor_183_183" id="FNanchor_183_183"></a><a href="#Footnote_183_183" class="fnanchor">[183]</a></p> - -<p>It is a simple oblong (<a href="#fig_325">Fig. 325</a>), 55 feet in length by 16 feet 6 inches -in width internally, and appears originally to have had no buttresses; -but several have been added at a later date. The side walls are 4 feet 6 -inches in thickness, but do not appear to have been sufficiently strong<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_363" id="page_363">{363}</a></span> -to resist the thrust of the barrel vault with which the building was -covered, and a portion of which (<a href="#fig_326">Fig. 326</a>) still exists.</p> - -<p>In the east wall there is an opening (<a href="#fig_327">Fig. 327</a>) with plain jambs and -round arch, which is sometimes called the doorway, but which is clearly -the chancel arch. From excavations made a few years ago, it was -ascertained that there were foundations of a choir 12 feet square, with -a square east wall. The arch is, doubtless, late Norman in design, -having a simple moulding on each jamb to form the imposts, and a plain -moulding running</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_326" id="fig_326"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_363.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_363.png" height="361" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 326.</span>—St. Martin’s, Haddington. Interior of West -End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">round the exterior of the arch stones on the side next the church. The -remains of a piscina adjoin the opening on the south side. The -round-headed windows in the side walls are tall and narrow, widely -splayed towards the interior, and covered with a large round arch on the -inside sconsion. There have originally been two entrance doors opposite -each other in the north and south walls, near the west end. The west -wall (<a href="#fig_328">Fig. 328</a>) had a single-light window, similar to those in the side -walls; but it is now destroyed. The south doorway has been renewed, but -some portions of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_364" id="page_364">{364}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_327" id="fig_327"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_364.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_364.png" width="637" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 327.</span>—St. Martin’s, Haddington. View from -South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_365" id="page_365">{365}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">the jambs of the north doorway still exist in a mutilated state. The -sconsion arch is segmental.</p> - -<p>The vault is lofty, and there has evidently been a story above it, as is -apparent from the windows in the west gable. The gables are very steep -and lofty, and are so constructed in order to admit of rooms in the top</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_328" id="fig_328"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_365.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_365.png" width="482" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 328.</span>—St. Martin’s, Haddington. View from -South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">story. The plan of having an upper story of this kind was not uncommon -in early churches.</p> - -<p>The window in the west gable is pointed, and it and the gables -themselves may be of later date than the original Norman church.</p> - -<p>As already mentioned, three buttresses have been built against each of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_366" id="page_366">{366}</a></span> -the side walls. These are entirely constructed with ashlar work of a -white freestone, and those at the east and west ends have the ashlar -work let irregularly into the old walls, as would undoubtedly be the -case in an addition. Besides, they have steep water-tables, such as were -introduced in the first pointed style, but were not used in the Norman -period. The old walls are built with irregularly-coursed brown -freestone, which is greatly worn away, and presents quite a marked -contrast to the buttresses, which have stood the weather well. A -peculiarity of the old walls is that they have numerous holes, about 10 -inches square in three courses in the height, running right through the -wall. These may have been putlog holes, used for scaffolding; but the -extraordinary thing is that they should all be left open. Possibly they -were only closed with a stone on the outside and inside, so as to be -easily made available at any time if required, and these stones may now -have fallen out. Similar rows of holes may be observed in the walls at -St. Helen’s and elsewhere.</p> - -<p>The church is surrounded by a burial-ground, which was used for -interments within recent years, but is now abandoned.</p> - -<h3>KIRKLISTON CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Linlithgowshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Some portions of the old Church of Kirkliston, situated about seven -miles west of Edinburgh, including the tower and two ancient doorways, -stand in the churchyard, on the high north-west bank of the Almond -Water, in the village of Kirkliston. The main body</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_329" id="fig_329"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_366.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_366.png" width="273" height="233" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 329.</span>—Kirkliston Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_367" id="page_367">{367}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">of the church, so far as can now be ascertained, was an oblong structure -(<a href="#fig_329">Fig. 329</a>) about 60 feet in length by 26 feet in width externally, but -part of the north wall has been removed, so as to allow the church to be -extended. The old tower (<a href="#fig_330">Fig. 330</a>) stands at the west end of the -structure. It is about 21 feet square, and has the solid buttresses -projecting on both sides of the angles, which indicate early -work—transition</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_330" id="fig_330"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_367.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_367.png" width="403" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 330.</span>—Kirkliston Church. View from South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">or first pointed. A square projection at the south-east angle of the -tower contains a wheel staircase. The windows are mere slits. The roof -of the tower is evidently comparatively new. It has a picturesque -seventeenth century belfry on the east gable.</p> - -<p>There is an old archway in the east wall of the tower, which connected -it with the main building of the church.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_368" id="page_368">{368}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_331" id="fig_331"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_368.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_368.png" width="438" height="597" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 331.</span>—Kirkliston Church. South Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_369" id="page_369">{369}</a></span></p> - -<p>In the south wall of the church there still exists, though partly -restored, a splendid Norman doorway. (<a href="#fig_331">Fig. 331.</a>) The doorway itself -measures 4 feet 9 inches in width, and the whole door-piece measures 14 -feet 7 inches over all. Besides the attached rolls on the jambs, which -form shafts with caps, there are seven detached shafts on each side, -arranged alternately large and small, with three large ones at each -outer angle. These had all caps of transition form, but the carving is -now almost completely destroyed. The arch, which is semicircular, has -numerous mouldings, which are not arranged in the usual square orders, -but have</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_332" id="fig_332"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_369.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_369.png" height="347" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 332.</span>—Kirkliston Church. North-East Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">received a freer treatment. The divisions may be regarded as composing -four orders, of which the inner order and the third order are enriched -with chevron ornaments. The hood moulding has also been carved with the -chevron, but the ornament has now almost all disappeared.</p> - -<p>The wall of the church in which the above doorway stands is undoubtedly -of considerable antiquity, the cornice which carried the original -parapet being still <i>in situ</i>. (See <a href="#fig_330">Fig. 330.</a>)</p> - -<p>At the north-east angle of the existing church another Norman door<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_370" id="page_370">{370}</a></span>way, -removed from elsewhere in the building, has been re-erected. (<a href="#fig_332">Fig. 332.</a>) -The round arch consists of three plain square orders, which spring from -the enriched caps of two nook shafts and the jamb moulding. Most of the -caps have a transition character, and the carving is fairly preserved.</p> - -<p>At the south-east angle of the church is erected the burial-house of -John, Earl of Stair, born 1672, died 1747. Over the moulded doorway is -the inscription, “Virtute decet non id sanguine niti. 1629.”</p> - -<p>Kirkliston from an early period belonged to the Knights Hospitallers of -St. John, who held much land in the locality. The church, as altered, is -still used as the parish church of Kirkliston.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_333" id="fig_333"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_370.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_370.png" width="418" height="477" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 333.</span>—St. Mary’s. Ratho. View of West End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_371" id="page_371">{371}</a></span></p> - -<p>ST. MARY’S CHURCH, RATHO, <span class="smcap">Mid-Lothian</span>.</p> - -<p>The village of Ratho lies about one and a quarter mile south from the -railway station of the same name, and about eight miles west from -Edinburgh.</p> - -<p>The parish church is dedicated to St. Mary, and the “Lady’s Well,” in -the vicinity, is still in use. Although greatly altered and mostly</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_334" id="fig_334"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_371.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_371.png" height="130" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 334.</span>—St. Mary’s, Ratho. South Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">rebuilt, the church still retains some indications of its Norman origin. -The view (<a href="#fig_333">Fig. 333</a>) shows the west end of the church, crowned with its -belfry. The buttresses indicate considerable age, but it is scarcely -possible to fix their date. The only Norman relic preserved is the -doorway in the south-west wall (seen in the sketch). It is built against -by the wall of a wing, so that only a portion of the doorway remains -visible. This consists (<a href="#fig_334">Fig. 334</a>) of one jamb, which had a nook shaft -and a cushion cap, carrying a plain round arch with a hood mould, carved -with a zigzag or saw-tooth ornament.</p> - -<p>Ratho Church was connected with Holyrood Abbey, and was a rectory. In -1444 the tiends and patronage were, with the consent of the Archbishop -of St. Andrews, made over to the College Kirk of Corstorphine, which was -then established. By this means four prebendal stalls were endowed.</p> - -<h3>ST. PETER’S CHURCH,<a name="FNanchor_184_184" id="FNanchor_184_184"></a><a href="#Footnote_184_184" class="fnanchor">[184]</a> PETERHEAD, <span class="smcap">Aberdeenshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The remains of the Church of St. Peter, Peterhead (<a href="#fig_335">Fig. 335</a>), consist of -the side walls of the chancel and the entire chancel arch, with a square -tower projecting outwards in the centre of the west wall of the nave. No -other portion of the nave remains. The tower and west wall are late, but -the chancel is of the Norman period. The arch is quite plain, and is -supported on square jambs having Norman cushion caps.</p> - -<p>There is a supposed reference to the church in the Book of Deer, in -1132, concerning a gift consecrated to St. Peter, Columcille, and -Drostan, who “were the tutelar saints of the Churches of Peterhead, St. -Colms, and Deer, which were the only churches in the district dedicated -to these saints.”<a name="FNanchor_185_185" id="FNanchor_185_185"></a><a href="#Footnote_185_185" class="fnanchor">[185]</a> Their endowments were then gifted to the great -Columban<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_372" id="page_372">{372}</a></span> Church of Dunkeld, with which they remained till the founding -of the Abbey of Deer, in 1218, when, it is believed, the patronage of -the Church</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_335" id="fig_335"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_372.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_372.png" width="409" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 335.</span>—St. Peter’s, Peterhead. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of St. Peter, at Peterhead, was conveyed to that abbey by the charter of -foundation, now not known to exist.</p> - -<h3>ST. MARY’S CHURCH,<a name="FNanchor_186_186" id="FNanchor_186_186"></a><a href="#Footnote_186_186" class="fnanchor">[186]</a> RUTHERGLEN, <span class="smcap">Lanarkshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Only the merest fragment of this ancient church now remains, consisting -of the east wall (<a href="#fig_336">Fig. 336</a>), with an eastern tower attached to it. The -masonry of the east wall shows it to be of the Norman period. There has -been no opening of any kind in this wall. The returns of the chancel -walls are only indicated on the east wall by the slightest traces in the -jointing, so completely have they been cut away. The eastern tower (<a href="#fig_337">Fig. -337</a>) is quite a unique feature in Scotland. It had no connection with -the church, although built against it, and is of later erection by -probably two or three centuries. The doorway is low and lintelled, and -has a simple splay. The upper part of the tower has apparently been -rebuilt, and, with the slated roof, dates doubtless from the seventeenth -century.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_373" id="page_373">{373}</a></span> The tower is about 10 feet 6 inches square inside, and about -34 feet high to the top of the masonry. It contains no stair.</p> - -<p>In Ure’s <i>History of Rutherglen</i> it is stated that there was a nave with -side aisles, 62 feet long by 25 feet wide, “exclusive of the additions -on the back and front;” that is, exclusive of the side aisles. Assuming -these to have been eight or ten feet wide, we should have a church -nearly corresponding in size with the present erection, built about a -century ago, and occupying the site of the nave, as shown in outline on -the plan, on which are also indicated the nave piers. The nave was thus -about 62 feet long by 45 feet wide, and the chancel was about 42 feet -long by 20 feet wide inside. Ure, by a mistake easily made, gives the -dimensions of the chancel as ten feet less in length. He also mentions -that there were five pillars on each side of the nave. This may mean -four whole pillars and two halves (the responds), as shown in the plan, -which, however, merely pretends to approximate to something like what -the original was.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_336" id="fig_336"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_373.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_373.png" width="356" height="150" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 336.</span>—St. Mary’s, Rutherglen. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Ure gives a drawing of the interior of the church, with detailed -sketches of some of the capitals of the piers. Four of these capitals -are preserved in a garden rockery in Rutherglen, and the annexed sketch -(<a href="#fig_338">Fig. 338</a>) shows them as they are seen lying there half covered up and -concealed. The upper one, which shows the bed of the capital, is a -respond from one of the end walls, and the diameter of the column, as -indicated by the inner circle, is 18 inches, the breadth across the -abacus being 2 feet 5 inches. The enrichments of these capitals -correspond with those indicated by Ure in his view, and he informs us -that the pillars, of which there were five on each side, “are smooth and -round, except the middle ones, which are octagonal.” He further says -that the arcade “arches are pointed, but the point is hardly -discernible,” and with this the view in his book agrees. Above the -arcade he shows a small square window, probably measuring about 2 feet -each way, and widely splayed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_374" id="page_374">{374}</a></span> inside. Immediately above this was the -roof. The walls were “about 20 feet high, including the pillars on which -they are supported.” It is satisfactory to find Ure’s description of the -church supported by the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_337" id="fig_337"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_374.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_374.png" height="466" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 337.</span>—St. Mary’s, Rutherglen. Tower, &c.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">remaining fragments. The lower member, shown in Fig. 338, is a carved -stone, probably part of the chancel arch. It is enriched with the -alternate billet ornaments so frequent in such arches during the Norman -period.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_375" id="page_375">{375}</a></span></p> - -<p>The church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and was granted to the -Abbey of Paisley by William the Lion before the year 1189, and it -continued in their possession down to the period of the Reformation. -There were several altars, with endowed chaplains.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_338" id="fig_338"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_375.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_375.png" width="374" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 338.</span>—St. Mary’s, Rutherglen. Norman Caps.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The church stands near the west end of the cemetery, on the north side -of the main street. The entrance from the street is through a -picturesque lych-gate of Renaissance design, dated 1663. (See <a href="#fig_337">Fig. 337.</a>) -It is surmounted by a sundial, dated 1679.</p> - -<p>The cemetery is mentioned in the charters of Paisley (No. 85) in the -year 1262, when the widow of John of Perthie grants to Paisley a piece -of land lying between the church of the Virgin Mary and the river -Clyde.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_376" id="page_376">{376}</a></span></p> - -<h3>LAMINGTON CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Lanarkshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The Norman doorway of this ancient church is still preserved. The church -has been altered and the doorway built up; but, doubtless, some of the -old walls still exist.</p> - -<p>The church and village were founded by one Lambin, in the twelfth -century. The doorway (<a href="#fig_339">Fig. 339</a>) is in the north wall of the church. It</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_339" id="fig_339"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_376.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_376.png" width="403" height="402" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 339.</span>—Lamington Church. North Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">is an elaborate example to find in this remote and quiet pastoral -district. The arch mouldings and ornaments are well preserved, but, -unfortunately, the shafts are wanting. The caps are quite plain. There -are three orders of mouldings, all enriched with characteristic Norman -ornaments. It will be observed that in that of the outer order the -spaces between the rings gradually diminish from the caps to the crown -of the arch.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_377" id="page_377">{377}</a></span></p> - -<h3>ST. BOSWELLS CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Roxburghshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The Church of St. Boswells stands near the right bank of the Tweed, at a -point about half-way between the village of Lessudden and Maxton Railway -Station. The village of St. Boswells is stated to have formerly stood -near the church, but it has gradually and entirely disappeared, and the -nearest village to the church is now Lessudden, which is fully a mile -off. The situation is very fine, and the views of the Tweed, with its -wooded banks, in the vicinity are very beautiful.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_340" id="fig_340"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_377.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_377.png" width="246" height="358" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 340.</span>—St. Boswells Church. Fragments.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The place is of great antiquity, and is supposed to have derived its -name from Eadwine of Northumbria. The church, which has been entirely -rebuilt, contains a few small relics of the Norman edifice which -undoubtedly once stood on the site. These consist of some carved corbels -(<a href="#fig_340">Fig. 340</a>) and other fragments, which are evidently of Norman date, and -which have been preserved by being built into the restored church.</p> - -<p>The Church of Lessudden was bestowed on Dryburgh Abbey in the middle of -the twelfth century.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_378" id="page_378">{378}</a></span></p> - -<h3>SMAILHOLM CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Roxburghshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>As in Berwickshire, so in Roxburghshire, a large number of Norman -churches were erected during the Norman period. We have not attempted to -compile a list of these, as in most cases almost no trace of them now -remains, or so little that it can only be detected by an antiquarian. -There is, for example, the Church of Hassendean, of which Cardonell -gives a view of the chancel arch, granted by David <small>I.</small> to the Bishop of -Glasgow. This, judging from Cardonell’s view, must have been a rich and -important structure, with an eastern end similar to what we</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_341" id="fig_341"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_378.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_378.png" width="371" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 341.</span>—Smailholm Church. Plan, and View from -South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">find existing at Leuchars and Dalmeny. The Church of Upper Crailing was -granted in 1147 to the Abbey of Jedburgh; and at the same time Ganfrid -de Percy grants to the same abbey the lands adjacent to the Church of -Oxenham; and Ranulph de Sulis at the same time gives to the abbey the -Church of Castletown, and a little later in the century the Church of -Hownam and Eckford are similarly bestowed. The Church of Smailholm (<a href="#fig_341">Fig. -341</a>) is distinctly a Norman structure throughout its entire length. -David <small>I.</small> granted the manor of Smailholm to David Olifard, and in the -ancient <i>Taxatio</i> (beginning of the thirteenth century) the Church<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_379" id="page_379">{379}</a></span> of -Smailholm was rated at 45 marks. Walter Olifard, who died in 1242, gave -the Church of Smailholm to Coldingham Priory.</p> - -<p>Merely the shell of this building is Norman. It was greatly altered in -the seventeenth century, when probably the chancel arch was cut out; and -in later times it has suffered severely, so that all its original -architectural details have been destroyed.</p> - -<p>The church consists of a nave, about 46 feet 6 inches long by 17 feet 3 -inches wide; a chancel, 25 feet 9 inches long by 14 feet wide—being a -total length of about 72 feet 3 inches. The present doorway to the nave -is, doubtless, in the position of the original one, and has been -enlarged. The chancel doorway is of the seventeenth century, and the -windows adjoining are probably enlargements of the originals made at the -same time. There were no windows in the north wall, and one in the west -wall is quite modern.</p> - -<p>There is a sundial on the south-west corner, bearing the date 1622, -which date is probably the date of the alterations referred to and of -the erection of the belfry.</p> - -<h3>LINTON CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Roxburghshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This church stands about six miles south from Kelso, and one mile and -a-half from Morebattle. It occupies part of a sandy mound on which, at -one time, there also stood the Castle of Linton. There was a church</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_342" id="fig_342"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_379.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_379.png" width="277" height="195" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 342.</span>—Linton Church. Tympanum in Porch.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">here at an early date, records of Linton Church being found as far back -as 1127. It was then presented to the Monks of Kelso by Sir Richard -Cumin for the salvation of the soul of Prince Henry, eldest son of David -<small>I.</small> The lands of Linton soon after passed into the hands of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_380" id="page_380">{380}</a></span> -Somervilles, as the reward granted to William de Somerville for having -destroyed a worm or dragon which had long been the terror of the -neighbourhood. This exploit is traditionally commemorated in a sculpture -in</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_343" id="fig_343"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_380-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_380-a.png" width="376" height="247" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 343.</span>—Linton Church. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the tympanum of the doorway of the ancient church (<a href="#fig_342">Fig. 342</a>), in which -the knight is represented on horseback thrusting his spear into the -mouth of the monster. It seems more likely, however, that the sculpture -has rather an ecclesiastical connection, and may possibly represent St. -George</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_344" id="fig_344"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_380-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_380-b.png" width="190" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 344.</span>—Linton Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and the Dragon, being an allegorical representation of religion, or -faith overcoming evil. Possibly, the existence of the sculpture may have -given rise to the traditional account of it. In 1858, this sculpture was -removed from the old doorway and inserted over the entrance to a new<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_381" id="page_381">{381}</a></span> -porch, then erected. The porch is seen in the sketch of the church. -(<a href="#fig_343">Fig. 343.</a>) This sculptured tympanum is remarkable as one of the few -examples of sculpture in a similar position in Scotland.</p> - -<p>There is also a Norman font connected with the church, which was long -used in a blacksmith’s shop.</p> - -<p>The walls of the church are old, but it has been almost entirely -restored and renewed. (<a href="#fig_344">Fig. 344.</a>)</p> - -<h3>DUNS CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Berwickshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Not a stone of this church now remains. The chancel existed till the -year 1874 as a burial vault, when the minister of the parish, “under the -pretext of improving the churchyard,”<a name="FNanchor_187_187" id="FNanchor_187_187"></a><a href="#Footnote_187_187" class="fnanchor">[187]</a> had it removed. The greater</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_345" id="fig_345"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_381.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_381.png" width="310" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 345.</span>—Duns Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">part of the church was taken down in 1790, when a new church was built -on its site. We are enabled by the kindness of Mr. Ferguson, Duns, to -give a copy of an old plan which appears in his work on the Churches of -Berwickshire, and to the same source we are indebted for the following -historical notes regarding it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_382" id="page_382">{382}</a></span></p> - -<p>The Rectory of Duns is mentioned in Bayamund’s Roll (1275), and in the -ancient <i>Taxatio</i> (end of the twelfth century) the parish is rated at -110 merks; so that it must have been a building of considerable -antiquity and importance.</p> - -<p>In 1296, the Rector, Henry de Lematon, took the oath of allegiance to -Edward <small>I.</small></p> - -<p>From a photograph in Mr. Ferguson’s possession, of what remains of the -walls of the chancel the masonry looks very like Norman work. If one -might judge from the plan (<a href="#fig_345">Fig. 345</a>), it evidently consisted of a long -nave and a chancel, with a north and south aisle or wing not opposite -each other, and probably built at later periods, such as are common in -connection with Scottish churches. The nave was about 72 feet long by -about 19 feet wide. The chancel was almost a square of about 17 feet, -thus corresponding with the Norman chancels of Ledgerwood and -Duddingston.</p> - -<p>The two narrow and widely splayed windows seen in the east gable -indicate early work, as do also the north and south doors near the west -end of the nave; the other numerous openings, especially of doorways, -were probably alterations.</p> - -<h3>ST. LAWRENCE CHURCH, LUNDIE, <span class="smcap">Forfarshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>In the course of some recent operations on this church under the -superintendence of Mr. T. S. Robertson, architect, Dundee, it was -discovered that it had been a Norman structure. Of the original building -not much now remains, except the ashlar walls and a narrow window with a -wide internal splay and an outside check for a shutter. This window is -situated near the east end of the north wall.</p> - -<p>The apse appears to have been taken down, in 1786, during some -alterations, and the chancel arch, indicated in the sketch (<a href="#fig_346">Fig. 346</a>), -was built up. A tomb house was erected on the site of the apse, where it</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_346" id="fig_346"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_382.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_382.png" width="196" height="207" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 346.</span>—Lundie Church in 1786.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">still remains. The building was of small dimensions, being about 40 feet -long by 18 feet 6 inches wide.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_383" id="page_383">{383}</a></span></p> - -<p>The fragment, of which a sketch (<a href="#fig_347">Fig. 347</a>) is annexed, was found built -in a wall near the church. It appears to have been the top of a -sacrament house of late date.</p> - -<p>The church, which belonged to the Priory of St. Andrews, was dedicated -to St. Lawrence, Martyr. In the early taxations of the Priory it is -described as “the Church and Chapel of Lundie.”</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_347" id="fig_347"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_383-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_383-a.png" width="151" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 347.</span>—Sacrament House, Lundie.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>KIRKMAIDEN CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Wigtonshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The parish of Kirkmaiden has long been incorporated with that of -Glasserton. Formerly Kirkmaiden formed the port of Whithorn, and its -roofless church still stands close to the burial-ground near the -sea-shore.</p> - -<p>It consists (<a href="#fig_348">Fig. 348</a>) of a nave, 37 feet 6 inches long by 18 feet wide -internally, and the walls are 4 feet in thickness. They are little -reduced from their original height, and the west gable is also little -diminished.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_348" id="fig_348"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_383-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_383-b.png" width="411" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 348.</span>—Kirkmaiden Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There are only three openings in the walls—viz., a doorway and two -windows, all in the south wall. These were, till recently, greatly -destroyed, but they have been restored by Mr. Galloway,<a name="FNanchor_188_188" id="FNanchor_188_188"></a><a href="#Footnote_188_188" class="fnanchor">[188]</a> who has no -doubt, judging from what remained, that they were all originally -round-headed, and has rebuilt them accordingly.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_384" id="page_384">{384}</a></span></p> - -<p>So far as these indications go, this would appear to have been a Norman -church. There is an apparent chancel at the east end, but its dimensions -and origin are not distinct. It is now appropriated as the “Monreith -Vault” (the mansion of that name being in the vicinity), and contains a -good deal of modern work.</p> - -<p>One peculiarity of the east chamber is, that the north wall is in line -with the north wall of the nave, while the south wall is set back four -feet from the line of the south wall of the nave.</p> - -<p>There is an arch between the nave and chancel, but it has not the -appearance of a genuine chancel arch, being rudely formed with thin -slatey stones. A wing, 14 feet long by 12 feet wide, is jutted out at -the back or north side of the chancel. The walls are little over 2 feet -in thickness. There is a square-headed doorway in the south-west angle, -and an ambry or recess in the north wall. A roughly-built archway, -similar to that into the nave, but smaller, opened from the nave into -the north aisle, but is now built up.</p> - -<p>The nave seems to be of Norman date. The choir has evidently been -altered at a late period, and the north wing or aisle may have been -built in post-Reformation times as a burial vault.</p> - -<p>The ground to the north rises rapidly, and was filled in to the height -of the walls, till cleared out by Mr. Galloway.</p> - -<p>There would appear to have been some kind of extension to the west, but -only the lower parts of walls and buttresses now remain. This portion -was also filled with earth, and on being cleared out, remains of ten -skeletons were discovered. This west wall is at the extremity of a long -retaining wall, which encloses the present burying-ground, and runs -along close above the shore.</p> - -<p>The place is very curious and romantic, lying near the sea at the foot -of high cliffs, and densely wooded all round.</p> - -<h3>HERDMANSTON FONT, <span class="smcap">Haddingtonshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This is one of the few minor relics of the Norman period which have -descended to our time. It stands in the burial vault of the Sinclairs of -Herdmanston, adjoining the mansion house of that name, about five miles -west from Haddington.</p> - -<p>The font is of yellow freestone, in one piece, and although somewhat -worn and battered in part, is still in a good state of preservation. The -base is partly damaged, and the surface of the top is somewhat broken -away towards the front (<a href="#fig_349">Fig. 349</a>), so that it measures a little higher -at the back than at the front.</p> - -<p>As will be seen from the Plan (<a href="#fig_350">Fig. 350</a>), the central part consists of -four rounded shafts, having a boldly pronounced base moulding. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_385" id="page_385">{385}</a></span> -basin is in the form of a Norman cushion capital, with four rounds on -each face, the abacus having a splayed projection of about a quarter of -an inch. The font has evidently been meant to be placed against a wall, -as all its parts—base, shaft, and capital—abut against a square haffit -perfectly plain on the back, to admit of its standing in such a -position. The ends of this haffit are very much broken.</p> - -<p>The dimensions of the font are—base, 7 inches high; shaft, 17 inches; -capital, 11 inches; total height, 2 feet 11 inches. Width across shafts, -13¼ inches; capital, 16¾ inches across front, and from back to front,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_349" id="fig_349"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_385.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_385.png" width="254" height="271" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 349.</span>—Herdmanston Font.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">including haffit, 17¼ inches. The basin, which is rounded (see Plan), is -11¾ inches wide by 5 inches in depth. It is flat in the bottom and has -no perforation.</p> - -<p>In the thirteenth century, John de Saint Clair erected a chapel at -Herdmanston by leave of the Canons of Dryburgh, to whom he granted two -acres of land, with a condition that his chapel should not injure the -mother church of Salton, which belonged, in the time of David I., to -Dryburgh Abbey.<a name="FNanchor_189_189" id="FNanchor_189_189"></a><a href="#Footnote_189_189" class="fnanchor">[189]</a></p> - -<p>The vault at Herdmanston stands east and west. It is about 31 feet 10 -inches long by 14 feet wide, and has a small west window, with a -sconsion arch on the inside, and a smaller window in the south wall. -The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_386" id="page_386">{386}</a></span> structure, which is barrel vaulted, is of considerable age, but it -is not the chapel erected in the thirteenth century; and as the font is -a work of</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_350" id="fig_350"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_386-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_386-a.png" width="263" height="233" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 350.</span>—Herdmanston Font. Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the twelfth century, it is evident that it was not made for the chapel -of Herdmanston.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_386-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_386-b.png" height="195" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>From Dunfermline Abbey.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_387" id="page_387">{387}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_TRANSITION_STYLE" id="THE_TRANSITION_STYLE"></a>THE TRANSITION STYLE</h2> - -<p>The term “transition” might be applied to any of the periods during -which one Gothic style is passing into another, as the buildings erected -at such periods partake of a transitional character. But the change from -the round arched and elaborately ornamented Norman to the pointed arched -and plainer style of the first pointed period being more marked than -that between any of the other Gothic periods, it has been generally -agreed to reserve the term “transition” for the architecture of the end -of the twelfth century, when the Norman style gradually gave place to -the first pointed Gothic style.</p> - -<p>The chief elements which mark the Transition style are the gradual -introduction of the pointed arch and its use along with some of the -decorative features of the Norman style. The pointed arch shows the -advent of the new style, but the ornaments of the old style continue to -linger for a time. The first pointed style was not complete till these -old ornaments were abandoned, and the more vigorous enrichments of the -new style were introduced. The other constructive features of the Norman -style gradually changed at the same time as the arch. The buttresses by -degrees assumed the projecting form of the first pointed style, and the -pinnacles and spires of the latter style were in course of time -introduced.</p> - -<p>During the progress of the Transition there was naturally a considerable -mixture of architectural elements. The round and the pointed arch were -used indiscriminately, and were frequently employed together in the same -structure, round arches being sometimes placed above pointed arches. Of -this there are examples in the nave of Jedburgh Abbey and the south -transept of Elgin Cathedral. In other instances, although the building -is chiefly Norman, the pointed style is introduced in certain positions; -as, for example, at Kelso Abbey, where to all appearance, contemporarily -with the Norman walls, the piers and pointed arches of the crossing are -in the first pointed style. At Dundrennan Abbey we find the older Norman -work partly converted into first pointed by alteration, and in other -examples, such as Coldingham, there is a mixture of the features of the -two styles.</p> - -<p>In many of the examples of the different periods, given or to be given, -some Norman features may be discovered which, it might be thought,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_388" id="page_388">{388}</a></span> -entitled the structures to be ranked as transitional. The buildings, -however, have been arranged under the various periods to which the most -prominent, not the most ancient, portions of their architecture belong.</p> - -<p>In England the period of Transition extends from about 1180 to 1200; -but, as we shall find, the corresponding period in Scotland extends -considerably into the thirteenth century.</p> - -<h3>DUNDRENNAN ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Kirkcudbrightshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The greater part of this very interesting structure has been demolished, -but what remains is so fine as to make one regret all the more the hard -usage the demolished portions have met with.</p> - -<p>The abbey stood in a small, but deep, valley on a few acres of -comparatively level ground lying on the west side of a little stream -called the Abbey Burn, about a mile and a-half from the sea. The edifice -is concealed in this remote and buried situation, and is with difficulty -discovered after traversing a hilly road of six or seven miles -south-east from Kirkcudbright. But when found, the quiet and secluded -site, and the peaceful aspect of the grey ruins, surrounded with ancient -trees, are very charming.</p> - -<p>The monastery has been of considerable extent (<a href="#fig_351">Fig. 351</a>). The church was -large, being 209 feet from east to west by 108 feet from north to south -of the transept, and comprised a great nave with double aisles, a choir -without aisles, north and south transepts with eastern aisles, and a -tower and spire 200 feet high over the crossing. The monastic buildings -which surrounded the cloister garth were of the usual description, and, -to judge from the remains of the chapter house, were of exceptionally -fine design.</p> - -<p>Of all these extensive structures the great nave and the tower and spire -have almost entirely disappeared, and there now survive only portions of -the north and south transept and choir, a beautiful fragment of the -chapter house, some walls of cellars on the west side of the cloister -garth, and other walls containing a few carved caps which show how fine -the design of the cloisters must have been.</p> - -<p>The abbey was founded by David <small>I.</small> about 1142, and was colonised by -Cistercians from Rieval in Yorkshire. Its history is little known. -Robert <small>I.</small> and David <small>II.</small> both conferred lands upon it. In 1568, after her -flight from Langside, Queen Mary was welcomed at Dundrennan by Abbot -Edward Maxwell, brother of Lord Maxwell. The abbey was then entire, and -contained all its inmates. The queen embarked for England from Port -Mary, at the mouth of the Abbey Burn.</p> - -<p>In 1587 James <small>VI.</small> annexed Dundrennan to the Royal Chapel of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_389" id="page_389">{389}</a></span> Stirling, -and the Maxwells became the heritable bailies of the lands.<a name="FNanchor_190_190" id="FNanchor_190_190"></a><a href="#Footnote_190_190" class="fnanchor">[190]</a> The -ruins now belong to the Maitlands of Dundrennan. It is not known how the -structure was reduced to its present dilapidated condition. By some it -is stated to have been destroyed by fire, while others attribute its -condition to neglect. It has undoubtedly met with the usual fate of</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_351" id="fig_351"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_389.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_389.png" width="463" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 351.</span>—Dundrennan Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">our old abbeys, and was used as a quarry till 1842, when it was put in -repair by the Commissioners of Woods and Forests, and it is now in fair -preservation.</p> - -<p>The nave of the church (see <a href="#fig_351">Fig. 351.</a>) was 134 feet long within the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_390" id="page_390">{390}</a></span> -walls, and comprised eight bays. The central division was 31 feet wide,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_352" id="fig_352"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_390-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_390-a.png" height="357" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 352.</span>—Dundrennan Abbey. Western Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and each aisle 16 feet wide, giving a total width of 63 feet internally. -Of this part of the church only portions of the west end and south wall -remain. The west wall contains the original western doorway, which is of -simple Transition design. The doorway had three nook shafts besides the -jambs, and the arches are in four orders of plain mouldings (<a href="#fig_352">Fig. 352</a>). -The caps, which have square abaci, are peculiar from the large quantity -of very small nail head ornaments with which they are decorated (<a href="#fig_353">Fig. -353</a>). The inner mouldings were renewed by the Government in 1842. The -west wall retains the responds of the main piers of the nave, and a -portion of one of the piers, being the westmost of the south arcade of -the nave, also exists, both showing a</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_353" id="fig_353"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_390-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_390-b.png" height="151" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 353.</span>—Cap of Western Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_391" id="page_391">{391}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_354" id="fig_354"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_391.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_391.png" width="621" height="334" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 354.</span>—Dundrennan Abbey. From South-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_392" id="page_392">{392}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">bold early pointed section (see A on Plan). There were seven piers on -each side of the nave, besides the west responds and the piers of the -crossing. A good deal of early pointed work is also carried into</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_355" id="fig_355"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_392-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_392-a.png" height="251" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 355.</span>—Dundrennan Abbey. Wall Shafts in Clerestory of -Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the transept, but it is clear, from the architecture of the building, -that the transepts have been originally erected in an earlier style, and -that the first pointed work is the result of alteration. This is -especially apparent in the north transept, the external walls of which, -on the west and north, are distinctly Norman, in character (<a href="#fig_354">Fig. 354</a>). -The round arched windows (with square recesses or nooks for shafts on -the outside), the broad buttresses with small projections, and the form -of the caps are quite characteristic of that style. The same remarks -apply to the south transept so far as the outer walls survive. In the -choir also the Norman character of the early work is distinctly seen. -Only portions of the side walls of the choir remain, the east end having -been entirely demolished. In the upper or clerestory windows of the side -walls are found very characteristic examples of late Norman work. The -large plain round openings of the clerestory and the triple shafts with -Norman caps and corbels (<a href="#fig_355">Fig. 355</a>) are unmistakable features. The choir -and transept were apparently at first completed in this style late in -the twelfth century, and sometime in the thirteenth century it has been -desired to build the nave on a larger scale. It has then been also -resolved to rebuild the interior of the transept, including the piers at -the crossing, in the same style as</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_356" id="fig_356"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_392-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_392-b.png" width="130" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 356.</span>—Arch of Doorway in Choir, and of Arcades in -Cloisters.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the nave, so as to bring the transept as far as possible into harmony -with the new design. The pointed work is evidently of an early character -(see <a href="#fig_354">Fig. 354.</a>). The squat round-headed windows of the clerestory, with -their broad internal splay occurring above the pointed windows of the -triforium, indicate a period of Transition. The use of the square abacus -is also general throughout the work. The very acute form of the main -arches of the transepts has probably arisen from the three bays having -to be fitted into the space between the old north and south end walls, -and at the same time requiring to be carried up as high as the main -arches of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_393" id="page_393">{393}</a></span> new nave. The piers of the transept are 13 feet from -column to column, while those of the nave were about 16 feet from column -to column. The outer walls of the east aisles of the transepts, which -were part of the original Norman structure, were not renewed at the time -of the above alteration, but they have now been demolished, only -fragments being left, from which, however, the form of the vaults can be -inferred.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_357" id="fig_357"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_393-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_393-a.png" width="200" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 357.</span>—Dundrennan Abbey. Monument in North Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The smaller details of the eastern part of the building are greatly -destroyed. The sedilia and what seems to have been a fine monument in -the choir are broken in pieces. A door has been formed in the north and -south side walls of the choir leading into the east aisle of the -transepts. There are evident additions made, probably during this -century, when the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_358" id="fig_358"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_393-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_393-b.png" width="443" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 358.</span>—Dundrennan Abbey. Plan and Details of West -Wall of Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">piers of the tower were rebuilt. The doorway into the south transept -aisle (<a href="#fig_356">Fig. 356</a>) is distinguished by a large trefoiled head, enriched -with small nail head ornaments similar to those in the west doorway, but -there<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_394" id="page_394">{394}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_359" id="fig_359"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_394.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_394.png" width="643" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 359.</span>—Dundrennan Abbey. Exterior of West Wall of -Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_395" id="page_395">{395}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">is some doubt whether this is not a restoration. It will be observed -that the section of the piers of the nave and transept, and also the -piers of the crossing (see <a href="#fig_351">Fig. 351.</a>), bear a close resemblance to those -of Sweetheart Abbey. But the forms here are earlier, the fillet on the -outer angle being absent at Dundrennan, though present at Sweetheart.</p> - -<p>In the north wall of the aisle of the north transept, and in a round -arched recess (<a href="#fig_357">Fig. 357</a>), lies the sculptured effigy of a knight wearing -a suit of chain armour, and with legs crossed. This is said to be the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_360" id="fig_360"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_395.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_395.png" height="326" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 360.</span>—Dundrennan Abbey. Ornaments over Windows of -Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">statue of Alan, Lord of Galloway, who was interred in the abbey in 1234. -There seems also to have been a fine monument in the choir, and numerous -portions of cusped and carved work are to be seen piled up in the nave, -which may be fragments of this or some other ruined structure of the -same nature.</p> - -<p>The cloister garth is on the south side of the nave, and measures about -105 feet by 102 feet. The walls surrounding the cloisters are for the -most part old. In the north-east angle is the ancient doorway to the -nave, and in the north-west angle a more modern doorway. On the east<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_396" id="page_396">{396}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_361" id="fig_361"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_396.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_396.png" width="656" height="417" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 361.</span>—Dundrennan Abbey. Interior of West Wall of -Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_397" id="page_397">{397}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">side, adjoining the south transept, is the slype from which a wide door -(doubtless modernised) leads into the transept. To the south of the -slype stood the chapter house, which must have been a very beautiful -building, measuring 51 feet from east to west by 34 feet from north to -south internally. From some fragments of shafts which remain, and from -the responds against the west wall, it appears to have been vaulted in -three spans from north to south, with four bays from east to west, but -the vaults have now entirely disappeared. The front wall next the -cloisters, however, fortunately survives (<a href="#fig_358">Fig. 358</a>).</p> - -<p>It is a splendid specimen of first pointed architecture (<a href="#fig_359">Fig. 359</a>). In -the centre is the doorway, and on each side a window, divided into two -openings by a central shaft. The doorway and windows were, as usual, -designed to remain open, so that the brethren in the cloisters might -hear all that passed in the chapter house.</p> - -<p>The features are all beautifully designed, and the details are of the -purest and most elegant forms (see <a href="#fig_358">Fig. 358.</a>), the whole being enriched -with finely carved dog-tooth and other ornaments.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_362" id="fig_362"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_397.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_397.png" width="305" height="93" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 362.</span>—Dundrennan Abbey. Caps in Cloisters.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the arch mouldings a very profuse employment of the fillet is -noticeable. The panels in the tympanum over the double arch of the -windows, both in the exterior and interior, are filled in with plain, -but finely designed, geometric figures (<a href="#fig_360">Fig. 360</a>), and the simple bold -cusps of the doorway have been carved with foliaceous scroll work, now -almost obliterated by decay.</p> - -<p>Internally the design of this front wall (<a href="#fig_361">Fig. 361</a>) corresponds almost -exactly with that of the outside, but is, perhaps, even more effective -from containing the vaulting shafts and the springing of the broken -groins.</p> - -<p>The west wall of the chapter house is altogether a very exquisite piece -of pointed work, and was probably executed just before the disturbances -of the end of the thirteenth century, which interrupted, and for a time -stopped, all architecture in Scotland. The style is clearly later than -the early pointed work of the transept, the round abaci and the filleted -mouldings contrasting with the square abaci and the pointed or round -mouldings of the transept.</p> - -<p>On the west side of the cloisters is a row of ruinous cellars, still -partly vaulted, but not very accessible. On the south side are the door -to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_398" id="page_398">{398}</a></span> what may have been a large chamber, probably the refectory, and some -remains of domestic buildings. (See <a href="#fig_361">Fig. 361.</a>)</p> - -<p>The north and east walls of the cloister still retain the remains of -some sharply cut caps, of what has been an arcade, with arches about 3 -feet 6 inches apart. The designs have evidently been very varied and -full of spirit (<a href="#fig_362">Fig. 362</a>), but it is scarcely possible to find one -sufficiently well preserved to enable a complete sketch to be made.</p> - -<p>The monuments of this abbey are not numerous, but they are interesting. -In the recess of the north side doorway of the west end (now built up) -is a large figure of an abbot, with his crozier, standing on the -prostrate body of a man. This is known as the Abbot’s Stone. Another -monument is called the Cellarer’s Stone, and shows a figure standing on -serpents. It is dated 1480. There is also a monument containing a female -figure, with an inscription partly defaced, but bearing the date of -1440. A plain monument to Frater Blackmore is probably of the fourteenth -century.</p> - -<h3>JEDBURGH ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Roxburghshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The town of Jedburgh occupies a site about ten miles south from Kelso, -in the narrow valley of the river Jed, a tributary of the Teviot. The -main street rises gradually on the west side of the valley till a wider -point is reached, on which stood the monastery, above a bend of the -river. On a still higher point, at a short distance south of the abbey, -stood the Castle of Jedburgh, the subject of constant contention in -Border warfare.</p> - -<p>The position of the abbey on the height above the river as seen from the -level “haugh” on the opposite side, with a broad expanse of water in the -foreground, is commanding, and forms a very attractive landscape.</p> - -<p>A Priory of Canons Regular from Beauvais was established here by David -<small>I.</small> while Prince of Cumbria, in 1118. In 1147 the priory was raised to -the dignity of an abbey, and it was probably after this distinction that -the oldest portions of the existing structure were erected.</p> - -<p>The abbey was dedicated to the Virgin, and was amply endowed by David <small>I.</small> -and the nobles of the district. Little is recorded of its history, but -the abbots were occasionally men of distinction.</p> - -<p>In 1285, when John Morel was abbot, King Alexander <small>III.</small> was married in -the abbey with much ceremony to Iolanda, daughter of the Count de Dreux.</p> - -<p>Jedburgh formed a strong Border outpost, and was often attacked and -damaged in the wars with England. Under Edward <small>I.</small> the roof of the abbey -was stripped of its lead, and the conventual buildings were so damaged -that, in the year 1300, the monks had to seek refuge in other houses of -their order. During the fifteenth century the abbey frequently<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_399" id="page_399">{399}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_363" id="fig_363"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_399.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_399.png" width="602" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 363.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_400" id="page_400">{400}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">suffered from hostile invasion, and in consequence had to undergo -considerable repairs, as will be pointed out in connection with the -crossing and tower.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_364" id="fig_364"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_400.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_400.png" width="403" height="561" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 364.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. South Side of Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_401" id="page_401">{401}</a></span></p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the frequent harrying and damage it sustained, the -fabric of the Abbey Church is still in a wonderful state of -completeness, but the monastic buildings which stood on the south side -of the church have been entirely swept away.</p> - -<p>The church (<a href="#fig_363">Fig. 363</a>), Plan) consists of a choir, with side aisles -extending eastwards for two bays, beyond which was an aisleless -presbytery, the east end of which is demolished; a nave of nine bays, -which had vaulted side aisles (now greatly destroyed); a central -crossing, with a square tower above; a north transept, well preserved; -and a south transept, of which the south end is destroyed.</p> - -<p>The choir and presbytery, as already mentioned, have been greatly -damaged, and the east end is destroyed. It has been suggested that the -choir may have terminated with an eastern apse, but of this there is no -proof. What survives (<a href="#fig_364">Fig. 364</a>) consists of the two bays next the -crossing, the lower portions of which are in the Norman style. The main -piers have the peculiarity of being carried up as massive cylindrical -columns to the height of the arch over the triforium. This arrangement -is unique in Scotland, but is not unknown in England. A somewhat similar -design is carried out at Gloucester Cathedral, where the massive -cylindrical piers are of great height, but they are not divided into two -stories. At Romsey Church, Hampshire, however, the same arrangement -occurs as at Jedburgh (<a href="#fig_365">Fig. 365</a>), the tall round piers being divided by -an intermediate arch, which supports the upper gallery or triforium.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_365" id="fig_365"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_401.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_401.png" height="438" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 365.</span>—From Romsey Church, Hampshire.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>At Jedburgh the lower story has the round arch and vaulting ribs -supported on corbels (<a href="#fig_366">Fig. 366</a>), projected from the round face of the -piers.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_402" id="page_402">{402}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_366" id="fig_366"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_402.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_402.png" width="514" height="418" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 366.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. South Aisle of Choir, looking -West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_403" id="page_403">{403}</a></span></p> - -<p>A similar plan is adopted at Romsey and also at Oxford Cathedral. The -upper or triforium arch at Jedburgh is round and moulded, and contains a -well wrought chevron ornament. It rests on large caps of the divided -cushion pattern. The main arch is formed into two openings by a central -round shaft and two half round responds, with massive cushion caps -carrying plain arches.</p> - -<p>The clerestory is of Transition work, having one lofty stilted and -pointed arch and two smaller pointed arches in each bay. These spring -from clustered shafts, consisting of four smaller shafts grouped into -one. They have plain bell caps and foliaged caps alternately, all with -square abaci. The arches have bold mouldings and a label.</p> - -<p>At the time when the transitional clerestory was erected, the eastern -part of the choir appears to have been built, as the remains of two -lofty pointed windows are preserved to the east of the cylindrical piers -(<a href="#fig_367">Fig. 367</a>). These lofty arches have sprung from shafts with Transition -caps at the level of the triforium floor, and a pointed arcade beneath -seems to have been continued round the east end of the choir and -presbytery.</p> - -<p>The same Norman style of architecture as in the choir is continued in -the south and north transepts, and appears to have originally also -extended into the nave. This is apparent from the mode in which the -string course over the triforium runs along on the north side from the -choir to the nave, where it is broken off. That the Norman nave has -probably extended westwards from the crossing is further evidenced by -the existence of the west end wall, with its great doorway and windows -and the south doorway to the cloister, which portions are all of -characteristic Norman design.</p> - -<p>Whether the Norman nave had only been projected, but never -completed—only the west wall with its doorway and windows and the south -doorway being erected—or whether the nave had been finished and -afterwards destroyed, it is impossible to say. It is, however, evident -that the Norman work in the choir and in the western and south doorways -must have preceded the Transition work in the choir and nave by a -considerable amount of time. The styles in both cases are quite -distinct, and there is evidently a considerable hiatus between them. -They do not follow one another by gradual development.</p> - -<p>The nave is 129 feet in length and 27½ feet in breadth in the central -aisle, and measures about 57 feet in width internally over the aisles.</p> - -<p>It is divided into nine bays, each of which (<a href="#fig_368">Fig. 368</a>) comprises a main -arch resting on clustered piers, a triforium with one round arch -containing two pointed arches, and a clerestory forming a continuous -arcade, with four pointed arches in each bay. The main clustered piers -contain (<a href="#fig_369">Fig. 369</a>) four principal shafts at the angles and four -intermediate shafts between them. The former are brought to a point on -the face, the latter are flatter. The caps are simple and of an ordinary -transitional<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_404" id="page_404">{404}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_367" id="fig_367"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_404.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_404.png" width="430" height="582" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 367.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. South Side of Choir and -Crossing.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_405" id="page_405">{405}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_368" id="fig_368"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_405.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_405.png" height="555" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 368.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. The Nave, looking West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_406" id="page_406">{406}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">form (<a href="#fig_370">Fig. 370</a>), each with a square abacus. The bases are also simple -and stand on a massive square plinth, a feature not uncommon in Norman -work. The arches of the main arcade are somewhat acutely pointed, and -the mouldings are bold, and resemble first pointed work. (See <a href="#fig_369">Fig. 369.</a>)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_369" id="fig_369"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_406.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_406.png" height="426" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 369.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the triforium (<a href="#fig_370">Fig. 370</a>) the principal arches are round, being an -example of the round arch placed above the pointed arch. Each round arch -is divided into two openings by smaller pointed arches, which contain -first pointed mouldings (<a href="#fig_371">Fig. 371</a>). The larger arches spring from -clustered<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_407" id="page_407">{407}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_370" id="fig_370"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_407.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_407.png" width="292" height="642" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 370.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_408" id="page_408">{408}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">shafts with bell caps and square abaci. The central pillars of the -smaller arches vary in section. Those in the east part of the nave -consist of four shafts united into one (being the same section as those -of the clerestory of the choir), while those in the portion of the nave -to the west of the centre are composed of two shafts. The shield between -the smaller arches is perforated with a small circle. The simple -constructional main arches of the triforium are seen on the exterior -(<a href="#fig_372">Fig. 372</a>), where also the corbels to carry the timbers of the roof of -the triforium gallery are visible.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_371" id="fig_371"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_408.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_408.png" width="331" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 371.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. Plan of one half Bay of -Clerestory.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The clerestory shafts are of trefoil section both on the exterior and -interior (<a href="#fig_373">Fig. 373</a>), and have foliaged caps of first pointed design. In -the interior the caps have the angles of the abaci cut off so as to make -them octagonal. The arches are all pointed, and contain first pointed -mouldings. A corbel table supports the cornice on the exterior, and -there are two small ornamental arches between every two corbels (<a href="#fig_374">Fig. -374</a>). Over each main pier a small buttress is introduced in the exterior -of the clerestory,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_409" id="page_409">{409}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_372" id="fig_372"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_409.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_409.png" width="562" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 372.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. View from North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_410" id="page_410">{410}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">and a plain standard in the interior. These buttresses are projected on -small corbels, and do not rise above the arches. It is thus evident that -it was never intended that the central aisle of the nave should be -vaulted, there being no suitable buttresses provided to resist the -thrust of a vault. The side aisles, however, were vaulted, but the -vaults are now demolished, only some fragments of the ribs being left, -as shown in Fig. 372.</p> - -<p>As already mentioned, the west end of the nave (see <a href="#fig_374">Fig. 374.</a>), and -especially the western doorway, are quite Norman in character. The west -doorway (<a href="#fig_375">Fig. 375</a>) is a noble specimen of its period. The ingoing</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_373" id="fig_373"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_410.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_410.png" width="291" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 373.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. Clerestory Details.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">is deeply recessed, and has contained five free nook shafts on each -side, besides the door jamb, with intermediate shafts and elaborate -enrichments. The caps are foliaged, and of late Norman character. In the -arch there is an order over each shaft, and intermediate enrichments and -mouldings. The ornaments consist of the chevron, both solid and under -cut, and other greatly relieved enrichments and rosettes.</p> - -<p>The jambs of the doorway and the arch over it contain heads and other -ornaments in panels, now much decayed. The doorpiece projects some feet, -and on the north side of the projection a small round arch (see <a href="#fig_374">Fig. -374.</a>) can be traced.</p> - -<p>The doorpiece is surmounted by three little gablets. The central one<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_411" id="page_411">{411}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_374" id="fig_374"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_411.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_411.png" width="421" height="555" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 374.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. West End and part of North -Side.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_412" id="page_412">{412}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">contains a trefoiled arch, and those at the sides seem to have contained -a similar arch, but they are now much decayed.</p> - -<p>The west wall has flat buttresses of Norman character (see <a href="#fig_374">Fig. 374.</a>) at -each side of the central aisle, and the upper portion of the wall has a -central round-headed window, flanked on each side by three small pointed -arch heads, the caps carrying which rested on long single free shafts, -now gone. The central window has deep mouldings, but no enrichment. The -west front has been finished with an octagonal turret at each side, as -at Kelso Abbey, and the gable contains a central circular window, which -has been filled with tracery at a late date. The west end walls of the -aisles have each contained a circular headed window of Norman design, -with a chevron ornament in the arch and a nook shaft at each side.</p> - -<p>The south doorway (<a href="#fig_376">Fig. 376</a>), leading from the cloister into the nave -above referred to, is of late Norman design. It is extremely rich in its -decoration, though somewhat decayed. It contains the remains of several -shafts and enrichments in the jambs, and the caps have been very -elaborate in their carving. The round arch head contains four orders of -mouldings. The inner order and the door jambs are both carved with the -same chevron ornament; the next order consists of plain mouldings; the -third order is enriched with figures comprised in small semicircles; and -the outer order contains a deep series of zig-zags. The whole is -enclosed with a small label. The doorpiece projects, the outer angle -having a bold bead, and a small cornice runs along the top.</p> - -<p>The above description of the nave and its Norman west end and doorways -will make clearer what has already been indicated with regard to the -completion or restoration of the edifice in the Transition period. The -suggestion is that the lower part of the walls of the choir and the -western wall and doorway and south doorway being all of Norman work, it -seems probable that the whole building was set out and partially -executed in Norman times, and that the work was either stopped for a -considerable period and then resumed, or that the structure, after being -completed, was destroyed, and had to be restored in the late Transition -style.</p> - -<p>The Transition work is well advanced in style, and may be regarded as -being of the date of the end of the twelfth century, or beginning of the -thirteenth century.</p> - -<p>The Norman north transept, as already mentioned, is fairly well -preserved, but both the north and south transepts have undergone great -repairs about the end of the fifteenth century. The crossing appears to -have been so greatly damaged by the assaults of the fifteenth century -that it was found necessary to rebuild it. The restoration is distinctly -visible (see <a href="#fig_364">Fig. 364.</a>) in the south-east pier of the crossing, the style -of which is quite different from that of the Norman work adjoining in -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_413" id="page_413">{413}</a></span> choir and south transept (<a href="#fig_367">Fig. 367</a>), and the junction of the new -work with the old is very apparent. This pier has clearly been rebuilt. -It is plain next the crossing, but next the aisle it consists of a -series of</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_375" id="fig_375"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_413.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_413.png" width="421" height="552" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 375.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. West Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_414" id="page_414">{414}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">shafts (see <a href="#fig_366">Fig. 366.</a>), with a moulded cap of late date. The upper -mouldings of the cap form a continuous straight line, while the bells of -the caps are broken round the shafts; a style of cap common in Scotland -at the end of the fifteenth century.</p> - -<p>This pier and the south aisle of the choir beside it appear to have been -restored by Abbot John Hall (appointed 1478), whose name occurs on the -pier and on one of the bosses. The south-west pier of the crossing has -also been rebuilt. This work was carried out by Abbot Thomas Cranston -(appointed 1482). On a shield on this pier (see <a href="#fig_367">Fig. 367.</a>) are carved the -arms and initials of Abbot Cranston—three cranes and two pastoral -staves—saltierwise.</p> - -<p>The same abbot’s initials are placed on the north side of the west arch -of the crossing, where the chamfer begins, and on the lower part of the -north-west pier. The south-west pier, the north-west pier, and the arch -between them would thus appear to have been rebuilt by Abbot Cranston. -The base inserted by him is different from the old Norman base.</p> - -<p>About half-way up the south-east pier, rebuilt by Abbot Hall, the -springer of an arch (see <a href="#fig_364">Fig. 364.</a>) may be seen projecting to the west. -Abbot Hall has evidently intended to throw an arch across the transept -at this point, but Abbot Cranston changed his plan, and the arch was not -carried out. The mouldings of the portions executed by the two abbots -differ in their respective parts of the structure.</p> - -<p>To the north of the original Norman north transept an addition to the -transept has been erected. It is cut off from the old transept by a -wall, and thus forms a separate chapel, measuring 27 feet in length by -22 feet in width internally.</p> - -<p>This chapel is vaulted with the pointed barrel vault usual in Scotland -in the fifteenth century, and, consequently, the side windows are low -(see <a href="#fig_372">Fig. 372.</a>), their pointed arch being kept below the springing of the -vault. The window in the north end wall, however, is of large -dimensions. The windows are all filled with good fifteenth century -tracery, similar to that in the restored south aisle of the choir (see -<a href="#fig_364">Fig. 364.</a>).</p> - -<p>This part of the edifice is now used as a mortuary chapel for the family -of the Marquess of Lothian.</p> - -<p>The tower over the crossing (see <a href="#fig_372">Fig. 372.</a>) is 33 feet square and 86 feet -in height. It contains three pointed and cusped lancets on each side, -and is without buttresses. It appears to have been erected about 1500. -At the top, near the north-west corner, are engraved the arms and -initials of Abbot Robert Blackadder, who was afterwards promoted to the -offices of Bishop and Archbishop of Glasgow. He was appointed to that -see in 1484, and died 1508. His arms are a chevron between three roses.</p> - -<p>Soon after the abbey had been restored as above described it was again -attacked, pillaged, and burnt by Surrey in 1523. The damage then caused -was once more repaired in 1544. The abbey is described by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_415" id="page_415">{415}</a></span> Sir Ralph -Eure as “the strength of Teviotdale,” and by Hertford as “a house of -some strength which might be made a good fortress.”</p> - -<p>These generals of Henry <small>VIII.</small> had evidently cast their eyes on it as</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_376" id="fig_376"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_415.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_415.png" height="458" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 376.</span>—Jedburgh Abbey. South Doorway of Nave.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">an obstacle in their path, and resolved to get rid of it. The abbey was -pillaged and burnt by both (by the first in 1544 and the last in 1545), -and never recovered from the devastation it then suffered.</p> - -<p>In 1559 the monastery was suppressed, and the revenues went to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_416" id="page_416">{416}</a></span> -Crown. In 1574-5 the roof of the refectory was removed, and the timber -used for repairing the tower. The Abbey Church stood in a ruinous state -till the nave was partly roofed in at the triforium level to form a -presbyterian place of worship. It remained in this condition till 1875, -when a new church was erected, and the old abbey was cleared out.</p> - -<p>The crown arch of the tower fell in 1743. The groined arches of the -aisles continued in existence till the end of last century. In 1793 the -south aisle was removed, and a wall built between the pillars to make -the church more comfortable.</p> - -<p>The ruins of the abbey are now well cared for and protected.</p> - -<h3>KINLOSS ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Morayshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>This was one of the monastic establishments founded in Moray by David <small>I.</small> -in order to extend the benefits of civilisation to the remoter regions -under his sway.<a name="FNanchor_191_191" id="FNanchor_191_191"></a><a href="#Footnote_191_191" class="fnanchor">[191]</a> The story told with reference to this foundation is -similar to the legend regarding Holyrood. The king had lost his way in -the wood while hunting, and was guided by a deer to an open place, -where, as was afterwards revealed to him by the Virgin, he was to found -a church in her honour. The abbey was founded in 1150, and colonised by -King David’s favourite order of Cistercians from Melrose. It was endowed -with lands by its founder, and subsequently received grants from his -successors—Malcolm, William the Lion, and Alexander <small>II.</small>—as well as -from private donors. Robert <small>I.</small> presented the abbey with fishings. Edward -<small>I.</small> and Edward <small>III.</small> both visited Kinloss, the former in 1303 and the -latter in 1336.</p> - -<p>The chartulary of Kinloss Abbey is not preserved, but its traditions and -an account of the abbots has been written by John Ferrerius, a native of -Piedmont, who was for several years an inmate of the establishment. -Robert Reid, afterwards Abbot of Kinloss and Bishop of Orkney, formed -his friendship while a student in Paris, and brought him over to this -country about 1528, where he acted as lecturer and instructor of youth.</p> - -<p>Ferrerius gives a long account of the different abbots and the various -works executed by them, which would have been of great interest had the -buildings survived; but they are now, unfortunately, reduced to such -mere fragments that it is impossible to trace the various structures -referred to.</p> - -<p>In 1528 Robert Reid was installed as abbot. Abbot Reid is associated -with several of our ecclesiastical edifices, especially Beauly Priory -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_417" id="page_417">{417}</a></span> Kirkwall Cathedral. He occupied a somewhat prominent position in -the country, and was sent on several embassies to Henry <small>VIII.</small> and -Francis <small>I.</small> Under him the abbey lands were erected into a burgh of -barony. In 1530 he received the gift of the Abbey of Beauly <i>in -commendam</i>, where he erected many new buildings. He also added greatly -to the abbey of Kinloss, and amongst other improvements he built a -spacious fire-proof library, and enriched it with many volumes. The new -abbot’s house, the remains of which are seen in the view (<a href="#fig_377">Fig. 377</a>), was -also erected by him about 1537. In 1538 he invited Andrew Bairhum, a -celebrated painter, to come to Kinloss, where he was occupied for three -years in painting altar pieces. He also brought William Lubias, an -intelligent gardener, to Kinloss from Flanders, who introduced great -improvements in the cultivation of fruit trees into the country. In 1541 -Abbot Reid, while retaining his existing preferments, was appointed to -the Bishopric of Orkney. There, too, he erected many new structures.</p> - -<p>It is to the liberality of this enlightened prelate, who was a great -encourager of learning, that we owe the foundation of the College of -Edinburgh. When the Court of Justice had been instituted by James <small>V.</small>, -Bishop Reid was appointed president in 1549.</p> - -<p>Bishop Reid was succeeded in the abbacy of Kinloss by his nephew, Walter -Reid. He was the last abbot, and by him a great part of the lands of -Kinloss and Beauly were alienated. He subscribed the first covenant in -1560, and was married, and his wife after his death became possessed of -the abbey. Certain of the lands and fishings, however, were assigned to -Edward Bruce, who was commendator after the Reformation, and in whose -favour they were raised into a temporal lordship as Lord Bruce of -Kinloss. From him are descended the Earls of Elgin.</p> - -<p>Till about 1650 the buildings of the abbey are believed to have remained -tolerably entire. They were conveyed, in 1645, to Brodie of Lethen, by -whom the materials were sold, to be utilised in the construction of -Cromwell’s citadel at Inverness. The chapter house had been used as a -place of worship up to that time, and it was found necessary to erect a -new church in lieu of the chapter house, which had been removed.</p> - -<p>From the above cause the remains of Kinloss Abbey, as already mentioned, -are mere fragments. The outline of the cloister garth, which measures -about 100 feet by 90 feet, can be traced (<a href="#fig_378">Fig. 378</a>), the walls on the -south and west sides being fairly preserved. On the north side the -foundations of what was, doubtless, the south wall of the nave of the -church are visible, and on the east side part of the wall of the south -transept still stands. Of the church there only survives a small and -tottering fragment of the south transept, with part of the eastern -chapels and a long vaulted chamber to the south, which is on a lower -level than the transept. A small portion of old wall is observable to -the north, opposite the south transept, and is probably a survival of -the north tran<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_418" id="page_418">{418}</a></span>sept wall. This gives an indication of the probable -position of the church, as shown by clotted lines on the Plan. The -church consisted of the usual divisions of nave, choir, and transepts, -with a tower over the crossing. The tower was erected by Abbot Guthrie -about 1470-80, and it fell in 1574.</p> - -<p>There have been vaulted apartments on the south side of the long vaulted -chamber lying south of the transept, as is apparent from the remains of -pointed arches on the outside of the south wall (see <a href="#fig_377">Fig. 377.</a>). This -sketch also shows the height of the transept chapel above the vault to -the south of it. Similar remains of pointed arches on the west side of</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_377" id="fig_377"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_418.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_418.png" width="453" height="315" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 377.</span>—Kinloss Abbey. Abbot’s House from South-East, -and portions of the Church.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the west wall of the cloister show that vaulted apartments ran along -that side also.</p> - -<p>All appearance of ornamental work or hewn work of any kind has been -removed, with the exception of one archway in the south wall of the -cloister and an arched recess adjoining (<a href="#fig_379">Fig. 379</a>). These seem from -their style to have been part of the original abbey. The ornament of the -gateway is distinctly transitional in character, and was probably -erected in the beginning of the thirteenth century. Although the arch is -circular, the dog-tooth of the hood mould is first pointed, while the -large undercut cross enrichment is a survival of Norman character. The -round<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_419" id="page_419">{419}</a></span> abacus of the caps, however, is decidedly first pointed in style. -This seems to have been an archway leading into the cloister. The arched -recess to the eastward, which was doubtless a monument, is rather later -in</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_378" id="fig_378"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_419.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_419.png" height="487" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 378.</span>—Kinloss Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">style, but seems to belong to the thirteenth century. The corbels which -carried the roof timbers of the cloister walk still survive. They are -moulded in the first pointed style. The water table above the roof is -also partly preserved.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_420" id="page_420">{420}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_379" id="fig_379"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_420.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_420.png" width="529" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 379.</span>—Kinloss Abbey. Archway in South Wall of -Cloister, and Abbot’s House from North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_421" id="page_421">{421}</a></span></p> - -<p>The abbot’s house (see Figs. 377 and 379) stands to the south of the -abbey. It consists of an oblong structure, which now measures about 50 -feet in length by 27 feet in width within the walls, with several -vaulted cells on each side, all now in ruins, and thickly clothed with -ivy. The best preserved parts of the structure are the east wall, with -its gable, and the round tower at the south-east angle, which contained -the entrance doorway and staircase. Over the doorway is a panel (<a href="#fig_380">Fig. -380</a>) with ogee arched head containing the shield of Abbot Reid (a stag’s -head) and his initials and crozier.</p> - -<p>The plan of the abbot’s mansion resembles that of a baron’s house of the -sixteenth century. The basement appears to have contained the kitchen, -with cellars, and a passage with small windows. On the first floor would -be the hall, with small rooms opening off it, and bedrooms on the upper -floor.</p> - -<p>The ruins stand on level ground near the mouth of the Findhorn, a short -way from Kinloss Station, between Elgin and Forres.</p> - -<p>The ground has always been fertile, and is well watered by a stream -which passes close to the ruins. The whole space in which the ruins of -the abbey stand is now enclosed with a wall, and used as a -burial-ground.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_380" id="fig_380"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_421.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_421.png" width="82" height="154" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 380.</span>—Kinloss Abbey. Panel in Abbot’s House.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>THE NUNNERY, <span class="smcap">Iona</span>.</h3> - -<p>When Reginald, Lord of the Isles, in 1203, introduced Benedictine monks -into the Monastery of Iona, a convent for Benedictine nuns was founded -in the island, of which Beatrice, sister of Reginald, was the first -abbess. The deed of confirmation of the nunnery still exists at the -Vatican, dated 1203.</p> - -<p>The ruins of the building, which apparently was erected soon after that -time, still survive. (<a href="#fig_381">Fig. 381.</a>) They consist of a quadrangle about 68 -feet square, having the church on the north side; foundations of the -chapter house and other apartments on the east side; and the refectory -on the south side. There may have been other buildings on the west side, -as the walls are broken at the ends; but, if so, they are now removed.</p> - -<p>The church is an oblong structure, 58 feet in length by about 20 feet in -width. It has been divided into nave and choir, and has had a northern -aisle extending along both.</p> - -<p>The choir is about 20 feet square, and has been vaulted. It is separated -from the nave by a group of shafts at each side (<a href="#fig_383">Fig. 383</a>), which -supported a round arch with early mouldings (<a href="#fig_382">Fig. 382</a>), and there are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_422" id="page_422">{422}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_381" id="fig_381"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_422.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_422.png" width="373" height="605" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 381.</span>—The Nunnery, Iona. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_423" id="page_423">{423}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">vaulting shafts in the angles of the east wall. The choir has had two -windows to the east, separated by a small piece of wall. The floor is -raised two steps above the level of the nave. There is a doorway in the -north wall leading into the eastern portion of the aisle, which may have -been the Lady Chapel or sacristy. This building is vaulted, and has an -upper story, approached by a very narrow stair in the thickness of the -north wall.</p> - -<p>The chapel on the ground floor has had an altar to the east, and a -piscina in the south wall. The east window is a mere slit, and has a -straight-sided arch head, doubtless a late insertion.</p> - -<p>The arch in the west wall of this chamber (<a href="#fig_384">Fig. 384</a>) has Norman responds -and mouldings, and the groins of the vault have simple rolls.</p> - -<p>The nave has three round arches (see Figs. 383 and 384) opening into the -north aisle. These arches spring from circular pillars and responds, -which have caps of apparently Norman design. They are much decayed, but -the ornament has some resemblance to that of the caps in the chapter -house and high aisle of the cathedral. The arches are now built up, but -the mouldings seem to correspond with those of the chancel arch. The -doorway from the cloister, in the south-west angle of the church, has -two nook shafts supporting a round arch.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_382" id="fig_382"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_423.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_423.png" width="169" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 382.</span>—The Nunnery, Iona. Arch Mouldings of Chancel -Arch at <b>A</b> on plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The most of the above portions of the structure appear to belong to the -transition period, and were probably erected soon after the convent was -founded. The choir and sacristy are undoubtedly original, but the nave -and aisle and upper part of the structure appear to have been rebuilt, -probably at a late date. The upper part of the nave is of an undefined -character. The small windows have round arches, and might be transition -work; but they are placed over the piers, not over the arches, as was -invariably the case in early buildings.</p> - -<p>The west wall is very plain. It has a tall round-headed window on the -church level, with a string course stepped over it, and a small window -is introduced in the gable, which might be of almost any period. A -series of corbels occurs in the south-west wall over the doorway. They -are carved with grotesque heads, and appear to have supported a wooden -floor—perhaps an organ gallery. There has been a doorway in the north -wall of the aisle. It had two nook shafts, but it has now almost -disappeared. A portion of a cross wall is visible in the aisle, with -what may have been the seat of an altar against it.</p> - -<p>Within recent years considerable excavations and repairs have been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_424" id="page_424">{424}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_383" id="fig_383"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_424.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_424.png" width="609" height="417" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 383.</span>—The Nunnery, Iona. View from South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_425" id="page_425">{425}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_384" id="fig_384"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_425.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_425.png" width="634" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 384.</span>—The Nunnery, Iona. View from North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_426" id="page_426">{426}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">made in the building. The position of the cloister garth has been -defined by a low wall; and the site of the chapter house on the eastern -side, with its stone seat running round it (see <a href="#fig_383">Fig. 383.</a>), has been -disclosed. The other apartments on this side remain indefinite, but the -position and walls of the refectory on the south side are distinct. This -part of the structure has had an upper story, probably a dormitory. The -south, east, and west walls, with their small windows, are still -preserved. There was, no doubt, a dormitory over the east side of the -quadrangle, but the walls there are now only a few feet in height.</p> - -<p>At a distance of about 30 feet north from the convent church stands -another building, said to have been the parish church. (See <a href="#fig_381">Fig. 381.</a>) -It is dedicated to St. Ronan, and is a simple oblong chamber, 37 feet -long by 16 feet wide internally.</p> - -<p>It has a small window in the centre of the east wall, and the seat of -the altar still remains. In the north and south wall, near the east end, -are the remains of two windows, which have apparently been rather wider -than the east window.</p> - -<p>The doorway has been at the north-west angle, and has had a single nook -shaft in each jamb; but that part of the structure is now much -destroyed. The whole building is constructed with the plain rubble work -usual in West Highland churches.</p> - -<p>Numerous very fine specimens of Celtic carved work are preserved in the -monumental stones which have been found and are preserved in the -convent.<a name="FNanchor_192_192" id="FNanchor_192_192"></a><a href="#Footnote_192_192" class="fnanchor">[192]</a> Amongst these is the monument of the last prioress. On it -are carved the figure of the prioress, surmounted by a rude Gothic -canopy, and an inscription bearing the date of 1543. It also contains -the ancient symbols of the mirror and the comb.</p> - -<h3>ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Aberdeen</span>.</h3> - -<p>This church, said to be the largest mediæval parish church in Scotland, -is still preserved and used as the principal church of Aberdeen; but -only two portions of the ancient work remain—viz., the transepts and -the crypt at the east end, below the choir. The nave was rebuilt about -the middle of last century by Gibbs, the well-known architect of St. -Martin’s-in-the-Fields Church, London, and the Radcliffe Library, -Oxford. It is, of course, in the Renaissance style of the time, and the -interior is very dignified. The choir was entirely taken down in 1835 -and rebuilt in the most tasteless fashion. The walls of the crypt and -transepts were all refaced except the north front of the transept, -which, however, is of no great architectural value, having been altered -considerably in the seven<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_427" id="page_427">{427}</a></span>teenth century; in any case, it forms a -pleasing contrast to the very rigid and inartistic new masonry. The -central tower, with the leaded spire, was burned in 1874, and the -existing central spire was thereafter erected. In these circumstances, -it is only the interior of the transept and crypt which come within the -scope of the present work.</p> - -<p>The transepts (<a href="#fig_385">Fig. 385</a>) measure internally about 103 feet by 20 feet 10 -inches, and are of the transitional style of the end of the twelfth -century. The openings into the nave and choir are now built up. There</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_385" id="fig_385"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_427.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_427.png" width="448" height="358" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 385.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church, Aberdeen. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">seems always to have been a solid wall between the transept and the nave -aisles, with only a small opening of communication in each of about the -size of an ordinary doorway. These openings are of a very plain and -simple design (<a href="#fig_386">Fig. 386</a>). The piers which carry the central tower (<a href="#fig_387">Fig. -387</a>) are of the usual transitional type, having graceful capitals and -square abaci supporting round arches. These are shown in detail in <a href="#fig_388">Fig. -388</a>. They are not visible in the choir and nave.</p> - -<p>On each side of the north transept there are two original clerestory<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_428" id="page_428">{428}</a></span> -windows, those on the east side are seen in Fig. 389, and one of them, -which would overlook the roof of the choir aisle (<a href="#fig_390">Fig. 390</a>), has angle -shafts, with carved caps and mouldings. The present large north window -of the transept (seen in <a href="#fig_389">Fig. 389.</a>), the tracery of which is of very late -work, has remains of its original features, and in the low pointed -recess seen in the same view there is a transition attached shaft, with -carved cap and square abacus. There is only a shaft on one side of the -recess (as shown on Plan). The pointed arch of this recess, as well as -the tomb alongside, below the large window, are of later work.</p> - -<p>On the west side of the north wall there has been a round arched -doorway, of which traces are yet visible. This is probably the doorway -referred to in the following extract of the 10th January 1518—“The said -day, the toone consentit and ordanit thair masteris of Kirkwerk to -translat thar ( ) and passag to the rudloft, and big up Sanct Nichell -dur, and mak a fair wyndo in that gavill of thar croce kirk.”<a name="FNanchor_193_193" id="FNanchor_193_193"></a><a href="#Footnote_193_193" class="fnanchor">[193]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_386" id="fig_386"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_428.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_428.png" width="278" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 386.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. Doorway between Transept -and Nave Aisles.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The “fair wyndo” is, doubtless, the window in the north end wall just -referred to as having been altered, and seen in Fig. 389. The foregoing -are the only original features of the upper church now remaining, all -else is of the fifteenth and following centuries, and consists generally -of the wide pointed openings leading into the choir; and in the south -transept of a fifteenth century sculptured tablet of fine design (<a href="#fig_391">Fig. -391</a>) with the following modern inscription beneath—“The above stone -represents the Chantry or Annual Mass to be sung for his soul. Founded -by William Leith, of Barns, Provest of Aberdeen in 1351, who, with many -of his Descendants, is Interred underneath.” The monument has had an -inscrip<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_429" id="page_429">{429}</a></span>tion, now illegible, and has suffered considerably either from -neglect or mischief.</p> - -<p>The crypt at the east end of the choir is shown on Plan in its proper -relation to the transepts, but it is on a lower level. Although, as -already stated, no part of the choir now remains, the walls drawn in -outline are</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_387" id="fig_387"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_429.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_429.png" width="378" height="442" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 387.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. The Crossing.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">built on the site of the old walls, and show that the choir consisted of -five bays, with an apse. The total interior length from the east wall of -the apse to the tower is about 102 feet. It may be mentioned that the -total internal length of the existing church from the west end of the -nave to the apse is about 234 feet.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_430" id="page_430">{430}</a></span></p> - -<p>The crypt was approached by two stairs, one from the north and another -from the south aisle of the choir. These are now swept away, and only -their round arched openings remain as recesses in the walls of the -crypt. As these recesses are at a considerable height, most of the steps -were probably in the crypt. The stairs shown on the Plan with the -windows and doors are all quite modern. The latter lead out to the -street, which is at the level of the floor.</p> - -<p>The length of the crypt (which corresponds with the width of the choir) -is about 65 feet. The crypt consists of one central and two side aisles, -with an eastern apse. The plan of these divisions indicates that the -central aisle of the choir was only about 3 feet wider than the side -aisles, a very unusual arrangement, the side aisles being generally much -narrower than the central one. The width of the crypt is about 16 feet, -and the length at the apse is about 36 feet 6 inches. It is internally a -very picturesque and interesting structure, but it has been badly -treated at the time of the rebuilding of the choir. The wonder is that -it escaped from being rebuilt, like the rest of the church. It is at -present proposed to restore the building by removing the lath and -plaster from the walls, and laying the floor at the original level, and -also to fill the windows with stained glass. We may express the hope -that before this is done the distressing effects of the stained glass in -the crypt of Glasgow Cathedral will be duly considered.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_388" id="fig_388"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_430.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_430.png" width="207" height="484" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 388.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. Details of Piers of -Crossing.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The roof is groined throughout, the three compartments in the length -(<a href="#fig_392">Fig. 392</a>) being separated by pointed arches, which spring from moulded -caps on octagonal responds. The ribs are the same in all<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_431" id="page_431">{431}</a></span> the -compartments, except that in the centre and north a length of the ridge -rib is omitted (see Plan). The opening into the apse has a stunted</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_389" id="fig_389"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_431.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_431.png" width="402" height="516" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 389.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. North Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">round arch (<a href="#fig_393">Fig. 393</a>), and is a prominent example of the love of the -Scottish builders for this form of arch all through the Gothic period. -This is the only place in the crypt where the width is sufficient to -allow<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_432" id="page_432">{432}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_390" id="fig_390"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_432-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_432-a.png" width="201" height="211" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 390.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. Clerestory Window.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of such an arch reaching the roof without the necessity of undue gabling -above the arch, and it further has the effect of giving a dignity and -effect of separation to the apse which it would not have possessed with -a pointed arch. Each compartment of the apse has a central boss, two of -these are shown (<a href="#fig_394">Fig. 394</a>). All the intermediate ribs spring from -corbels at a lower level than the caps of the responds (<a href="#fig_395">Fig. 395</a>), from -which the separating arches spring, and the long diagonals of the centre -compartment cut through these caps and rest on the notch formed in the -centre of the wide diagonal respond at the opening to the apse (see <a href="#fig_392">Fig. -392.</a>).</p> - -<p>There is a considerable amount of carved woodwork—bench ends and backs -of seats—in the crypt, some of the fifteenth or sixteenth century (<a href="#fig_396">Fig. -396</a>), and some of a later period. These are probably part of the work -done by John Ferdour, “wricht,” who, in 1507, contracted to make -twenty-four stalls and other furniture “substanciusly and honourable as -he may,” as they are begun, “and bettir gif he can” (p. 77).</p> - -<p>The height from the present floor, which is about 18 inches above the -original level, is 13 feet 4 inches to the centre rib and 7 feet to the -top of the respond caps. The walls, being plastered, hide the wall ribs -and any of the usual architectural features, if any such exist.</p> - -<p>The choir so recently taken down superseded an older one.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_391" id="fig_391"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_432-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_432-b.png" height="379" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 391.</span>—Tablet in South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_433" id="page_433">{433}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_392" id="fig_392"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_433.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_433.png" width="554" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 392.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. Crypt, looking -South-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_434" id="page_434">{434}</a></span></p> - -<p>It does not appear to be quite certain when the latter was begun, but -throughout the Council Register there are numerous references to the -“kyrk werk,” and to the “reparacion of the perise kirk of Sanct -Nicolace.” These references begin in 1442 and continue for about a -century. In 1474 there is a contract for delivering six score stones of -lead to “Schir Andro</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_393" id="fig_393"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_434.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_434.png" width="470" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 393.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. Crypt, looking -North-West.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Wricht, maister of the kirk wark” (p. 32), and three years later -“Alexander of Charmyr,” alderman, was appointed “vpper and principale -maister of wark of the bigeing of Sanct Nicholace qveyr for twa yeris to -cum” (p. 33). Sir Andrew was probably an ecclesiastic, and he and -Chalmers appear to have been the paymasters.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_435" id="page_435">{435}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_394" id="fig_394"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_435-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_435-a.png" width="307" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 394.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. Bosses in Crypt.</p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_395" id="fig_395"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_435-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_435-b.png" height="386" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 395.</span>—Plan of Piers in Crypt, with Caps and Ribs.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_436" id="page_436">{436}</a></span></p> - -<p>In 1483 David Menzis, elder, was master of the kirk work, and purchased -a boat load of lime for the building, and in the following year “Maistre -Johne Gray, mason,” was appointed “to the bigging of Sanct Nicolace -wark.” He engaged to work in his own person, and to superintend the -masons and other workmen. He was “to be lele and trew to the said wark -for al the dais of his life, unto the completing and ending of the same” -(p. 41). It would appear that there were but few skilled workmen -employed in the building, as only some five or six men are mentioned by -name in the register. They are frequently referred to, and appear to -have been bound to remain at the building during the pleasure of the -Council. In the same year that Gray was appointed the feeing of a single -mason was a matter of so much importance as to occupy a whole sitting of -the Town Council and “diuerse of the communite” (p. 41), and in the year -following (1493) three masons were sent to Cowie (a few miles south from -Aberdeen) to work there for a year quarrying stones for the church. The -shifts and expedients to find funds for the building run through all the -deliberations of the Council. In 1495 about fifty</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_396" id="fig_396"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_436.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_436.png" height="320" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 396.</span>—St. Nicholas’ Church. Carved Bench End.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">citizens advanced the money “to pay Johne Ferdour for the making of the -roff and tymmir of the queyr” (p. 56), and in 1500 a contribution of -“salmond and money” was made for lead for the church. This offering was -not sufficient, and we find other negotiations had to be gone into to -raise funds, and it was not till 1510 that they were able to order the -master of the kirk work, George Bisset (a new master), to “cause the -plumbar to pass and ende his werk, and theik the body of thar kirk with -leide” (p. 80), and at last, in 1513, a gilded “weddercok” is set up on -“Sanct Nicholace stepill.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_437" id="page_437">{437}</a></span>”</p> - -<h3>COLDINGHAM PRIORY, <span class="smcap">Berwickshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>The picturesque village of Coldingham, with the remains of its ancient -priory, lies in a small valley about 3½ miles eastward from Reston -Railway Station, and within a mile of the sea.</p> - -<p>The great precipice of St. Abb’s Head, overlooking the German Ocean, is -only a few miles off. It is believed that Ebba, daughter of the -Northumbrian King Ethelfrid, and sister of King Oswy, in the bright days -of that kingdom, about the middle of the seventh century, founded the -monastery of <i>Urbs Coludi</i>, or Coldingham. There Ethelrida, Queen of -Egfrid, took the veil, and she afterwards founded the church and -monastery of Ely, of which she became abbess.<a name="FNanchor_194_194" id="FNanchor_194_194"></a><a href="#Footnote_194_194" class="fnanchor">[194]</a></p> - -<p>The Convent of Coldingham was several times sacked by the Danes, and -after its destruction by them in 870, it remained desolate till it was -restored in 1098 for a colony of Benedictines.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_438" id="page_438">{438}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_397" id="fig_397"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_438.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_438.png" width="593" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 397.</span>—Coldingham Priory. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_439" id="page_439">{439}</a></span></p> - -<p>The foundations of an early church with an eastern apse were found in -excavations made in 1854. The outlines of this early church, as shown on -a plan prepared by Mr. Hunter, in 1858, for his history of the priory, -are drawn in outline on Fig. 397. These were, doubtless, the remains of -the church erected in 1089. It had the circular apse of the early Norman -churches.</p> - -<p>The Priory of Coldingham was refounded at the above date by Edgar, son -of Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret. His charter is still preserved at -Durham. The church was dedicated to St. Cuthbert and St. Ebba, and -granted by Edgar to St. Cuthbert’s Canons Regular of Durham, in -acknowledgment of assistance he had received from England. It was -colonised by Benedictine monks, sent to it by the abbot of Durham.</p> - -<p>The priory thus remained long subordinate to the English Church, -although upon Scottish soil. The Canons of Durham controlled it, and -drew its revenues till 1504, when it was annexed to the Scottish Crown. -In 1509, the priory was at length detached from Durham, and placed under -the rule of the Abbey of Dunfermline, in which position it remained till -the Reformation.</p> - -<p>In the unsettled period of Robert <small>III.</small>, and the regency of the Duke of -Albany, the monks found it desirable to place the convent and its -revenues under the protection of Archibald, Earl of Douglas, who -appointed the Laird of Home as his under-keeper, and the Homes continued -to be the bailiffs of the priory till the Reformation, when it fell -entirely into their hands.</p> - -<p>In order to provide support for the Chapel-Royal in Stirling, which -James <small>III.</small> had founded, he attempted to suppress the Priory of -Coldingham and annex its revenues, and this was approved by the -Parliament of 1485. However, the proposal was opposed most strenuously -by the Homes and Hepburns, and tended to bring about the rebellion by -which King James lost his life.<a name="FNanchor_195_195" id="FNanchor_195_195"></a><a href="#Footnote_195_195" class="fnanchor">[195]</a></p> - -<p>The buildings of the convent are said to have suffered severely from -fire on three different occasions—viz., in 1216, in 1430, and in 1544. -The structure was also greatly damaged by Cromwell, and since his time -has served as a convenient quarry to the villagers. The result of the -dilapidations thus caused has been that but little of the monastery now -remains. The church is said to have consisted (see Plan) of nave and -choir, each 90 feet by 25 feet, and transept, 41 feet by 34 feet. At the -north-west angle of the latter rose a massive square tower 90 feet in -height.</p> - -<p>Of these once extensive structures there now only remain the north and -east walls of the choir, and some fragments of the south transept. The -nave has been entirely removed, and the great tower fell rather more -than a century ago. In 1662, the west and south walls of the choir were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_440" id="page_440">{440}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_398" id="fig_398"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_440.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_440.png" width="487" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 398.</span>—Coldingham Priory. View from North-East.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_441" id="page_441">{441}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">rebuilt to render that portion of the edifice suitable for a place of -worship, and in 1854-55 the choir was restored, its west and south walls -being again partly rebuilt, a south porch added, and the corner turrets -carried up to their present height. The whitewash was also removed from -the beautiful work of the interior.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_399" id="fig_399"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_441.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_441.png" width="461" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 399.</span>—Coldingham Priory. North and East Sides of -Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The church thus restored is 84 feet in length by 23 feet in width -internally, and comprises the ancient north and east walls of the priory -choir. The choir never had aisles, the walls having evidently been -designed to form the exterior of the building. They are two stories in -height (<a href="#fig_398">Fig. 398</a>), the ground floor consisting of a series of double -round arches, inserted in the intervals between flat Norman-like -buttresses. The arches are carved with chevron ornaments, and they -spring from slender<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_442" id="page_442">{442}</a></span> shafts, each having a square abacus and refined -cushion cap. The bases rest on flat corbels, round which a string course -breaks. All this Norman-like work is exceedingly fine, and very unlike -genuine Norman design.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_400" id="fig_400"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_442.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_442.png" width="408" height="474" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 400.</span>—Coldingham Priory. Caps of Lower Arcade.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Its refined character shows that it is of transition style. On the upper -story the spaces between the buttresses contain in each a single lancet -window, with a nook shaft on each side, and bold first pointed mouldings -in two orders in the arches. The shafts have strongly marked early -first<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_443" id="page_443">{443}</a></span> pointed features in the foliaged caps, with square abaci, central -band, and beaded base resting on a string course stepped up to receive -it.</p> - -<p>The above design extends round the east end, and the whole of the north -side, except the two bays at the west end of the latter, where the -design is interrupted so as to admit of a porch which seems formerly to -have existed there, but is now removed. The angle turrets have a nook -shaft at each projecting corner like Norman work. They have now been -restored on top with modern masonry.</p> - -<p>The design of the interior of the north and east walls (<a href="#fig_399">Fig. 399</a>) is -very beautiful. It is carried out, like the exterior, in two stories. -The lower story consists of a continuous pointed arcade, placed close to -the wall, with single detached shafts and bold first pointed arch -mouldings. The bases of the shafts rest on a stone bench 1 foot 6 inches -high, and the caps are varied with rich transition and first pointed -carving (<a href="#fig_400">Fig. 400</a>). Curious trefoil and vesica openings are inserted in -the spandrils. (<a href="#fig_403">Fig. 403.</a>)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_401" id="fig_401"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_443.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_443.png" width="427" height="106" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 401.</span>—Coldingham Priory. Plan of Upper Gallery.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The upper story consists of a detached arcade, having a passage behind -it in the thickness of the wall (<a href="#fig_401">Fig. 401</a>). The arcade comprises an -alternation of high and low pointed arches, two of the latter occurring -between every two of the former. The shafts are alternately cinquefoil -and double in section, as shown in the geometrical drawing (<a href="#fig_402">Fig. 402</a>). -All these details are prominently first pointed in style, the caps being -elaborately carved with foliage of that period, and the mouldings being -bold and distinct (<a href="#fig_403">Fig. 403</a>). The little bits of foliage introduced at -the points of the arches and ends of the labels and strings are also -characteristic of early first pointed work.</p> - -<p>That the design is late transition or very early pointed work is -apparent from all the details. The lower story of the exterior having -refined Norman ornaments, and the early date of the first pointed work -being emphasised by the whole of the abaci of the caps being square in -form, possibly this portion of the edifice may be due to restorations -executed after the fire of 1216.</p> - -<p>The portions of the south transept still left are very fragmentary, and -there are now no traces of a north transept, although in Mr. Hunte<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_444" id="page_444">{444}</a></span>r’s -plan some indications of such a structure are shown. At the north-west -angle of the south transept there is an arch, which has been rebuilt, -being partly made up of old fragments, but the lower part seems to be -ancient. The lower portions of two piers on the east side of the -transept still survive (<a href="#fig_404">Fig. 404</a>), and exhibit good mouldings. These -seem to have formed the piers between the transept and an eastern aisle. -When</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_402" id="fig_402"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_444.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_444.png" width="471" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 402.</span>—Coldingham Priory. Elevation of part of West -Side.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Grose’s views were drawn in 1789, one of the pier arches still stood, -and a corresponding arch of the north transept is also shown as then -existing. Part of the west and south walls of the transept, with the -shafts (or at least the bases of the shafts) of an arcade, similar to -that of the choir, is also still preserved. This building shows a -doorway in the south-west angle.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_445" id="page_445">{445}</a></span></p> - -<p>Lying at a distance of 76 feet south from the church, and at a somewhat -lower level, are the walls of a great hall (see <a href="#fig_397">Fig. 397.</a>). The wall, -which runs east and west, is fully 100 feet in length, and has attached -to it pilasters of segmental form, measuring 1 foot 10 inches across, at</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_403" id="fig_403"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_445.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_445.png" width="431" height="537" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 403.</span>—Coldingham Priory. Interior of North-East -Angle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_446" id="page_446">{446}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">intervals of about 12 feet. From excavations recently made, the width of -this building has been ascertained to be 28 feet. The south wall has -been 5 feet in thickness, and seems to have been buttressed.</p> - -<p>There are three doorways in the north wall, with steps leading down into -the building. Part of the east wall also remains, in which is a recess 4 -feet 6 inches wide, with splayed jambs, and having an ambry in the back -of it. The structure has been vaulted, as is apparent from the remains -of ribs and corbels. Part of it may have been the refectory. Unless -steps are taken shortly to preserve this building, it will probably very -soon disappear.</p> - -<p>There seem to have been buildings along the east, extending from this -hall to the church. These may have formed the eastern side of a court or -cloister, of which the hall formed the southern side and the church the -north side.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_404" id="fig_404"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_446.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_446.png" width="219" height="165" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 404.</span>—Pier in South Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The east wall of the cloister, which partly remains, has traces of an -old doorway (see Plan) about 4 feet 6 inches wide, now built up. It was -secured by a sliding bar, the channel for which is still in existence. -This doorway is shown in Cardonnell’s <i>Picturesque Antiquities of -Scotland</i> as a round arched door. Above it is shown a pointed arched -window, and at about 20 feet to the south a great pointed archway, not -unlike the arching of the “Pends” at Arbroath. This great archway is -also shown by Grose, but the above-mentioned doorway with the sliding -bar is not seen in Grose’s view owing to a wall hiding it from his point -of view; however, he shows the pointed arched window above. Both the -above authors indicate that a wall ran eastward at right angles.</p> - -<p>There are several grave-slabs at Coldingham, of which four are -illustrated. Three of these are small in size, and the fourth is -considerably larger. That shown in <a href="#fig_405">Fig. 405</a> has bevelled edges, with a -foliaged cross containing thirteenth century carving. At the top of the -cross there is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_447" id="page_447">{447}</a></span> a wasted bust, and at the foot there are Calvary steps. -The slab measures 2 feet 2 inches high by 11½ inches wide at the top, -tapering to 8 inches at foot. The other three crosses are apparently of -a later date.</p> - -<p>Figs. 406 and 407 are, like Fig. 405, of small size, the first measuring -32 inches high by 10⅜ inches at the top of the slab, and tapering to 8⅛ -inches at the base, and the latter 27 inches high by 10 inches without -taper.</p> - -<p><a href="#fig_406">Fig. 406</a> is of an elaborate and peculiar design. On the flat slab a -shallow bead with a circular head encloses the design. This consists of -two stars at the top, and then of three upright flat-beaded figures -about 6 inches high, with corded lines across them; then a Greek cross, -a star, and, finally, a double row of three stars. The arrangement of -the stars somewhat resembles the similar features at the chancel arch of -Legerwood, Berwickshire. The small slab (<a href="#fig_407">Fig. 407</a>), which may be</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<p><a name="fig_405" id="fig_405"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_447-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_447-a.png" height="230" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 405.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_406" id="fig_406"></a> -<a name="fig_407" id="fig_407"></a> -<a name="fig_408" id="fig_408"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_447-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_447-b.png" width="380" height="280" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr><td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 406.</span> -</p> -</td> -<td class="tbspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 407.</span> -</p> -</td> -<td class="tbspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 408.</span> -</p> -</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="5"><p>Coldingham Priory. Grave Slabs.</p></td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_448" id="page_448">{448}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">supposed to have covered the grave of a child, appears also to have had -an incised sword.</p> - -<p><a href="#fig_408">Fig. 408</a> is 5 feet 2 inches by 16½ inches at the head, tapering to 14 -inches at the base, and has bevelled edges, with a flat bead at the -sides only. It bears the incised outline of a sword, with a large carved -knob for the pommel.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_409" id="fig_409"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_448.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_448.png" width="116" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 409.</span>—Cushion Capital.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There are several stones at Coldingham preserved from an earlier church -than the existing one. <a href="#fig_409">Fig. 409</a> represents one of these, being a Norman -cushion capital from a respond. The fragment is 14¾ inches wide by 11 -inches high.</p> - -<h3>DRYBURGH ABBEY, <span class="smcap">Berwickshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>Situated on the north bank of the Tweed (and, consequently, in -Berwickshire), this once important abbey belonged to the series of -monastic establishments founded in the twelfth century in the valley of -the Tweed. It occupies a beautiful position amongst fine woods on an -elevated peninsula, surrounded on three sides by a loop of the river -Tweed, about five miles below Melrose.</p> - -<p>It is said that a religious establishment existed here under the -presidency of St. Modan, in the eighth century, but the evidence is -scanty.</p> - -<p>The monastery, of which the fragmentary remains are still visible, was -founded, in 1150, by Hugh de Morville, Constable of Scotland, and -received a charter from David <small>I.</small> The canons introduced into it were of -the Premonstratensian order, from Alnwick, and, from their dress, were -called White Friars.</p> - -<p>A large part of the domestic buildings seems to have been erected within -fifty or sixty years of the date of the foundation, as they are built in -the transition style of the beginning of the thirteenth century. The -church appears to have been in progress during the thirteenth century, -as in 1242 the Bishop of St. Andrews, owing to the debts incurred in -building the monastery, and other expenses, gave the canons permission -to enjoy the revenues of the churches under their patronage—one of -their number performing the office of vicar in each parish.</p> - -<p>The canons took the oath of fidelity to Edward <small>I.</small> in 1296, upon which -their property was restored to them. Their possessions were widely -spread, and extended into several counties, as appears from letters -addressed by Edward regarding them to the sheriffs in the counties of -Fife, Berwick, Roxburgh, and Edinburgh.</p> - -<p>Amongst the distinguished men connected with the abbey was Ralph Strode, -a friend of Geoffrey Chaucer and John Wiclif. He devoted himself<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_449" id="page_449">{449}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_410" id="fig_410"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_449.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_449.png" width="459" height="560" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 410.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_450" id="page_450">{450}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">to philosophic studies, and was the author of several works. In the -fifteenth and sixteenth centuries Andrew Forman was superior of -Dryburgh, a man much occupied with affairs of Church and State under -James <small>IV.</small> and <small>V.</small> He was appointed, in 1501, to the Bishopric of Moray, -and held at the same time the priories of Coldingham and Pittenweem, and -the Commendatorship of Dryburgh. Afterwards he became Archbishop of -Brouges, and finally Archbishop of St. Andrews.</p> - -<p>Lying, as the abbey did, in the path of the invaders from the South, it -received many unfriendly visits, and suffered much at the hands of</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_411" id="fig_411"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_450.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_450.png" width="467" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 411.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. East Side of Monastic -Buildings.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the English. In 1322 the monastery received a destructive visit from -Edward <small>II.</small> on his return from an unsuccessful invasion of Scotland. His -army camped in the grounds of the abbey, and next morning set it on -fire, when great damage was done. Large contributions were received from -Robert <small>I.</small> for the repairs of the damage thus caused.</p> - -<p>The buildings were again destroyed, in 1385, by Richard <small>II.</small> on his -retreat from Scotland, on which occasion he likewise burnt the abbeys of -Melrose and Newbotle. In 1544 the edifice once more suffered at the -hands of Lord Eure, when the fittings were carried off.</p> - -<p>The abbacy was held <i>in commendam</i> from the beginning of the six<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_451" id="page_451">{451}</a></span>teenth -century, and, in 1587, it was annexed to the Crown. Finally, it was -erected into a temporal barony, with the title of Lord Cardross, in -favour of the Earl of Mar, from whom it has passed, by purchase, through -the hands of several proprietors.<a name="FNanchor_196_196" id="FNanchor_196_196"></a><a href="#Footnote_196_196" class="fnanchor">[196]</a></p> - -<p>The monastery (<a href="#fig_410">Fig. 410</a>) has consisted of the usual buildings -surrounding the cloister, having the church on the north side, standing -about ten steps above the level of the cloister garth. The sacristy, -chapter house, fratery, and other apartments stretch from the transept -southwards along the east side; and above these, on the upper floor, -were the dormitories, entering by an open staircase from the south -transept, in a similar manner to the dormitories at Pluscardine, -Melrose, &c. Along the south side of the cloisters lay the refectory, -which, owing to the slope of the ground, was raised on a basement floor -of vaulted cellars. On the west side of the cloister garth there are now -only a few vaulted cellars. A small stream runs along on the south-west -side of the monastic buildings, and beyond the stream are the remains of -what seems to have been a detached chapel.</p> - -<p>The oldest portions of the structure are those forming the eastern range -(<a href="#fig_411">Fig. 411</a>), which, from their style of architecture, are evidently of -transition date, or about the beginning of the thirteenth century. The -sacristy is 28 feet long by 13 feet wide. It has a stone bench round the -walls and three steps in the floor. There is a door from the transept -and an outer semicircular-headed doorway of transition character from -the cloister (<a href="#fig_412">Fig. 412.</a>) Access is also obtained by a small door in the -north side to a wheel-stair leading to the upper floors, and visible as -a projecting turret at the south-east angle of the transept (see <a href="#fig_412">Fig. -412.</a>).</p> - -<p>The east window of the sacristy is remarkable, having two round-headed -windows, surmounted by a visica-formed aperture (see <a href="#fig_411">Fig. 411.</a>).</p> - -<p>The sacristy has a piscina in the south wall near the east end.</p> - -<p>The apartment next the sacristy is 28 feet long by 11 feet wide. It has -now been appropriated as a mausoleum, but may have originally been a -parlour. There is an ambry in the south wall near the east end. The -doorway is semicircular, and of Norman character (see <a href="#fig_412">Fig. 412.</a>).</p> - -<p>The east window is plain, and consists of two round-headed openings -enclosed in a large semicircle (see <a href="#fig_411">Fig. 411.</a>). The above two apartments -are on the level of the cloisters; but the floor of the chapter house, -which is next in order, is several feet below the level of the cloister -walk.</p> - -<p>The ordinary central doorway and side windows opening from the cloister -(see <a href="#fig_412">Fig. 412.</a>) are, however, placed in their usual position on the level -of the cloister walk. The door is thus some five feet above the floor, -and if the doorway was used for access to the chapter house, it must -have been provided with a stair down, of which there is now no trace. -The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_452" id="page_452">{452}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_412" id="fig_412"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_452.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_452.png" width="612" height="420" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 412.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. Transept and East Side of -Cloisters.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_453" id="page_453">{453}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_413" id="fig_413"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_453.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_453.png" width="541" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 413.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. Doorway of Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_454" id="page_454">{454}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_414" id="fig_414"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_454.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_454.png" width="616" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 414.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. Interior of Chapter House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_455" id="page_455">{455}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">side openings were unglazed, and were used for seeing and listening to -what was proceeding in the chapter house below.</p> - -<p>The doorway (<a href="#fig_413">Fig. 413</a>) is large and deeply recessed, having three shafts -on the sloping ingoing, and plain mouldings above in the round arch, -divided into several orders. The jambs and arch over them are enriched -with a bold dog-tooth moulding. The outer arches of the windows on each -side of the doorway are plain semicircles, filled in with two pointed -lights, having a central shaft.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_415" id="fig_415"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_455.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_455.png" height="328" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 415.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. Carved Figure in Chapter -House.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The chapter house is 48 feet in length by 23 feet in width, and retains -its round barrel vault (<a href="#fig_414">Fig. 414</a>), which is about 20 feet in height. It -has three pointed windows in the east end (see <a href="#fig_411">Fig. 411.</a>) and two similar -windows in the side walls, where the chapter house projects beyond the -general line of the buildings. In the interior a round arched arcade -runs along the east side, supported on single shafts, and there are -traces of a similar arcade having run round the side walls. There is an -entrance doorway in the south wall, which is probably not original, and -the approach to it has been modernised. The east gable wall over the -chapter<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_456" id="page_456">{456}</a></span> house still exists (see Fig. 411.) It has simple flat -buttresses of a Norman type at the angles and between the windows, but -the pointed arches indicate transition work.</p> - -<p>Amongst the fragments of carved work preserved in the chapter house is -that shown in Fig. 415. It represents the pascal lamb slain,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_416" id="fig_416"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_456.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_456.png" width="463" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 416.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. South-West Angle of -Cloisters.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and is surrounded by a wreath of foliage, above which are the letters I -H S. The vine leaves flowing from the lamb may represent the branches -springing from the true vine.</p> - -<p>To the south of the chapter house is a large apartment, 50 feet in -length by 23 feet wide. It has been vaulted at a late period, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_457" id="page_457">{457}</a></span> -vaulting shafts still remain attached to the east, west, and south -walls. Their details are of the third pointed period. There is a -fireplace in the centre of the west wall, and an outer doorway at the -south end of the same wall. The apartment was lighted by three plain -round arched windows in the east wall, one of which has had tracery -inserted in after times. At the north-west angle, opening from the level -of the cloister, there is a round-headed doorway, and traces of a -staircase, which doubtless served as the day access to the dormitory. -The large apartment just described was probably the fratery or monks’ -day room. This is the more likely from its having a fireplace, where the -monks might warm themselves</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_417" id="fig_417"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_457.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_457.png" height="265" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 417.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. Arms of John Stewart, 1555.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">in cold weather. At the south-east angle of the room, and in the -thickness of the wall, a narrow staircase leads up to where the -dormitories were situated. South of the fratery is the slype or passage -10 feet in width, with arched openings to the east and west. It has also -a doorway to the fratery, and another to the apartment on the south -side. The latter now only exists in part, the south end of the range -having been destroyed.</p> - -<p>The range of buildings above described still retains its eastern wall to -the full height of two stories (see <a href="#fig_411">Fig. 411.</a>), the upper story being, -doubtless, the dormitory. The wall is all built in a simple early style, -with flat buttresses between the windows, and the latter are plain -round-headed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_458" id="page_458">{458}</a></span> openings, with a single recessed order. The hood mould is -in some cases carved with a notch ornament.</p> - -<p>On the south side of the cloister, where the refectory once stood, there</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_418" id="fig_418"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_458.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_458.png" width="438" height="489" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 418.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. West End of Nave—Interior.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">are now only the ruins of the vaulted basement on which it stood. At the -east end of this range there is a doorway from the cloister giving -access to a staircase, which led down to the lower level of the fratery, -&c. The remainder of the south side was probably all occupied by the -refectory,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_459" id="page_459">{459}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_419" id="fig_419"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_459.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_459.png" width="481" height="601" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 419.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. Western Doorway.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_460" id="page_460">{460}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">which would thus be about 77 feet in length by 27 feet in width. The -west wall is almost all that survives. It is ivy clad, and contains a -picturesque circular window, with radiating tracery (<a href="#fig_416">Fig. 416</a>). -Adjoining</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_420" id="fig_420"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_460.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_460.png" height="484" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 420.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. North and South Ends of -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">this wall in the south-west angle of the cloister there is an arched -recess in the west wall, apparently intended for a tomb and monument; -but it is empty. Over the doorway in this angle is a large shield (<a href="#fig_417">Fig. -417</a>),<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_461" id="page_461">{461}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_421" id="fig_421"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_461.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_461.png" width="443" height="581" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 421.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. North Transept and Choir.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_462" id="page_462">{462}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">which contains the arms of John Stewart, who was commendator in 1555. On -the shield are the initials “J. S.,” with the crozier in the centre. He -was brother of the Earl of Lennox, and uncle to Lord Darnley, who -married Queen Mary. The arms are those of the Stewarts of Lennox.</p> - -<p>The cloister occupies a space of 93 feet by 91 feet. It has been -surrounded by a vaulted walk, which has entirely disappeared. It is -evident that the cloister walk was at least partly vaulted from the -small remains of the springing of the vaults which are visible in the -eastern wall on each side of the doorway to the chapter house (see <a href="#fig_413">Fig. -413.</a>). From the way in which these springings die away to nothing against -the wall, without corbel or support of any kind, it is apparent that the -vaulting must have been of a late date. The corbels which supported the -top of the wooden roof over the vaulting are also still visible in the -east wall.</p> - -<p>The south wall of the nave of the church extends along the north side of -the cloister. At the north-east angle is the doorway which led from the -cloister into the nave. It is a handsome specimen of the transition -style, having a circular arched head deeply recessed in four or five -orders, springing from three shafts, and two moulded members in the -jambs. It is noteworthy regarding this doorway that the two inner orders -of the jambs and arch had been removed and erected in private grounds, -and, after many years’ absence, were restored to their original position -only a short time ago.</p> - -<p>The nave of the church is entered through this handsome doorway by ten -steps up from the cloister. It presents a scene of terrible destruction. -All the piers of the nave are demolished, and only slight traces of the -north wall remain; of the south wall, more is preserved. The west end -wall (<a href="#fig_418">Fig. 418</a>), however, has to some extent escaped destruction, and -shows by the responds attached to it the form of the nave piers, with -their caps and bases. The position of the piers along the nave is now -roughly indicated by a collection of fragments arranged, as nearly as -possible, in the original position and form. The mouldings indicate a -late date, and were, doubtless, restorations; but the responds, which -were not so liable to destruction, are of first pointed date. The -responds which form part of the west wall show that there was a central -nave 28 feet wide and side aisles, each about 13 feet 6 inches wide, -making a total width of 55 feet. There have been side chapels in the -nave, apparently divided by walls, some portions of which remain, with -ambries in the chapels.</p> - -<p>The western doorway (<a href="#fig_419">Fig. 419</a>) has a round arched head, but its details -show that it is of late design. This part of the edifice has apparently -been restored in the fifteenth century, after the destruction of the -abbey by Richard <small>II.</small> in the end of the fourteenth century.</p> - -<p>The transept has a slight projection to the north and south. It is 80<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_463" id="page_463">{463}</a></span> -feet in length internally from north to south and 37 feet in width, -including an eastern aisle.</p> - -<p>This part of the building and all to the east of it are evidently of</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_422" id="fig_422"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_463.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_463.png" height="539" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 422.</span>—Dryburgh Abbey. Choir-Aisle and North -Transept.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_464" id="page_464">{464}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">thirteenth century work, but, unfortunately, only a few detached -portions remain. These include (see <a href="#fig_412">Fig. 412.</a>) the very picturesque gable -of the south transept, with its large window filled with simple pointed -tracery, rising in steps above the roof of the dormitory (<a href="#fig_420">Fig. 420</a>). The -arch through which the stair to the dormitory passed is visible in this -wall. (See <a href="#fig_420">Fig. 420.</a>)</p> - -<p>To the east of the transept is a choir of two bays, with aisles, beyond -which is an aisleless presbytery, 42 feet long by 24 feet wide, now -almost reduced to foundations. The buttresses and base course are -traceable, and a doorway in the north-east angle, which probably led to -a small staircase. The portion of the structure still preserved to the -north is a part of the north transept wall, with the eastern aisle of -the transept and the two north bays of the choir (<a href="#fig_421">Fig. 421</a>).</p> - -<p>These portions are of very beautiful design, both internally and -externally. The exterior (<a href="#fig_422">Fig. 422</a>) is of very simple, but elegant, -first pointed work, while the interior shows symptoms of somewhat more -advanced design. The angle pier of the crossing and the piers of the -choir consist of round shafts with fillets, divided by square angles. -These are surmounted by moulded caps, with round abacus and first -pointed mouldings. From these spring the pier arches, composed of three -orders of plain splays, with hood moulding. Over the main arches is a -low triforium marked by string courses above and below. It has flat -arched openings filled in with circles having six cusps.</p> - -<p>The clerestory is of beautiful design. Each bay contains an arcade of -three arches, the central one, which is opposite the window, being -larger than the side arches. The arches are supported on detached piers, -behind which runs a gallery. These piers each consist of two shafts, -with central fillet. They have first pointed round caps, over which a -round block receives the arch mouldings as they descend.</p> - -<p>A small portion of the north end of the transept adjoins the above, -which shows that the structure has been carried up in two stories of -richly moulded windows (see <a href="#fig_420">Fig. 420.</a>), all in the same style as the -adjoining portion of the choir. The remaining portion of the aisle is -vaulted with moulded ribs springing from responds and corbels -corresponding in style with the choir.</p> - -<p>The whole of this part of the church is of very fine design and -workmanship, but it is, unfortunately, a mere fragment. Additional -interest attaches to it from its forming the last resting-place of Sir -Walter Scott and members of his family.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_465" id="page_465">{465}</a></span></p> - -<h3>AIRTH CHURCH.<a name="FNanchor_197_197" id="FNanchor_197_197"></a><a href="#Footnote_197_197" class="fnanchor">[197]</a></h3> - -<p>This ruined church adjoins the old Castle of Airth, which lies half a -mile from the Forth and eight miles south-east of Stirling. The church -is in part a building of considerable antiquity, dating from the -transition period about the end of the twelfth or the beginning of the -thirteenth century, but it has undergone many alterations, and only a -small part of the early structure remains. The building as it now stands -(<a href="#fig_423">Fig. 423</a>) consists of a</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_423" id="fig_423"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_465.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_465.png" width="424" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 423.</span>—Airth Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">nave and chancel, having a south wing or aisle, containing the Airth -vault, and forming a transept, with a tower at the re-entering angle of -the Airth aisle, and with indications of an aisle on the north side of -the choir. There are also two burial vaults attached to the building, -one on the north side and the other at the south-west angle, called -respectively the Bruce and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_466" id="page_466">{466}</a></span> Elphinstone aisles. The internal length of -the church is 79 feet 3 inches by about 19 feet 9 inches in breadth. The -most ancient part of the church (<a href="#fig_424">Fig. 424</a>) is on the north side of the -nave, and consists of a bay of what has been a nave arcade, opening into -a north aisle. One pillar and respond (tinted black on the Plan), with -the connecting round arch, still</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_424" id="fig_424"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_466.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_466.png" height="422" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 424.</span>—Airth Church. North Arcade.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">stand. The original arcade probably consisted of three bays extending to -near the west gable, where there are indications, at the ground level, -of what appears to have been the western respond. Whether there was -originally a south arcade or not cannot now be determined, as this part -has been entirely rebuilt, and all traces of the north and south aisles -of the nave, if there was a south aisle, have perished. The existing -north<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_467" id="page_467">{467}</a></span> bay is 11 feet 3 inches wide, and the pillar, which is circular, -is about 17 inches in diameter. It has a capital, carved with simple -foliage (<a href="#fig_425">Fig. 425</a>), and has a square abacus. The arch has a double set -of plain arch stones, with plain soffit.</p> - -<p>The few details which survive are extremely interesting, and show this -to have been a building of some importance. Behind the above bay now -stands the burial aisle of the Bruces of Powfoulis. It bears over the -doorway the initials of Sir James Bruce and his wife, Dame Margaret -Rollox, of Duncrub, and on another part the date 1614. It seems probable -that this, as well as the other aisles shown on Plan, contained, on the -upper floor, the family seats or galleries of the respective houses -whose arms they bear, and a burial vault beneath.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_425" id="fig_425"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_467.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_467.png" width="236" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 425.</span>—Airth Church. Cap of Pillar.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Judging from the few details left, the Airth aisle is a structure of the -fifteenth century. It measures about 24 feet 3 inches long by 13 feet 3 -inches wide, and has contained a large traceried south window, which is -now destroyed, and brought to the condition shown in Fig. 426. The -external hood moulding of the window remains with nicely carved -terminations (<a href="#fig_427">Fig. 427</a>). Beneath this window is seen the top of an -arched tomb, in which probably the recumbent effigy (<a href="#fig_428">Fig. 428</a>) once lay. -There is a small square-headed window in the east wall, divided by a -mullion; but, as appears from its mouldings, it is an insertion of -perhaps the seventeenth century. Adjoining this is the usual ambry. -Beneath this aisle is the burial vault (indicated by dotted lines on the -Plan), which is reached by the stair shown. On the outside of the east -wall there is a niche for a statue (<a href="#fig_429">Fig. 429</a>). It has the usual canopy -and bracket so frequent on the churches of this late period. The bracket -(<a href="#fig_430">Fig. 430</a>) contains the Bruce arms—viz., the chief and saltier; the -chief being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_468" id="page_468">{468}</a></span> charged with two incised cinquefoils, which may point to an -alliance with the Livingstone family. The same arms, but without the -cinquefoils,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_426" id="fig_426"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_468-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_468-a.png" width="418" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 426.</span>—Airth Church. The Airth Aisle, looking South.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">appear beneath each of the first crow steps of the gable. This aisle was -probably erected by Alexander Bruce of Stenhous and first of Airth (1452 -to 1483), who was a son of Sir Robert Bruce of Clackmannan,<a name="FNanchor_198_198" id="FNanchor_198_198"></a><a href="#Footnote_198_198" class="fnanchor">[198]</a> and is -stated to have married (first) Janet, daughter of the first Lord -Livingstone, by whom he had no issue. It was probably “our Ladie Aisle, -founded and situated on the south side of the Kirk of Airth,” the -chaplainrie of which was presented by Sir Alexander Bruce of</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<p><a name="fig_427" id="fig_427"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_468-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_468-b.png" width="167" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 427.</span>—Airth Church. Terminations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_469" id="page_469">{469}</a></span></p> - -<p>Airth, the patron, to Robert Bruce, younger, his son, on 30th October -1572.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_428" id="fig_428"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_469-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_469-a.png" width="470" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 428.</span>—Airth Church. Effigy.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The effigy (see <a href="#fig_428">Fig. 428.</a>), which, as already stated, probably occupied -the tomb in the Airth aisle, lies at present in a mutilated state in the</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_429" id="fig_429"></a><a name="fig_430" id="fig_430"></a><a name="fig_431" id="fig_431"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_469-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_469-b.png" width="422" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"> -<table> -<tr><td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 429.</span>—Niche for Statue. -</p> -</td> -<td class="tbspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 430.</span>—Bracket. -</p> -</td> -<td class="tbspc"> </td> -<td> -<p> -<span class="smcap">Fig. 431.</span>—Stone in Airth Castle. -</p> -</td></tr> -</table> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_470" id="page_470">{470}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">eastern portion of the church. There is no certainty whom the recumbent -figure represents, but it is in all likelihood an effigy of one of the -ladies of either the family of Erth or of the Bruces of Airth. It has -been stated that another effigy lies beside the one referred to, but we -understand from a person who has examined the ground that nothing of the -kind is to be found. This effigy, which is 6 feet 3 inches long by 1 -foot 10 inches in breadth, is greatly mutilated; but the coverlet -extending from the waist downwards is well preserved, and is very finely -carved, and, so far as we know, is unique amongst Scottish figures.</p> - -<p>In Airth Castle is preserved the stone shown in Fig. 431. It appears to -have been taken from the church and to have formed a part of a piscina -or ambry. The fragment measures about 2 feet high, with an opening about -12½ inches wide. It doubtless belonged to the Airth aisle.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_432" id="fig_432"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_470.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_470.png" width="219" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 432.</span>—Airth Church. Stone in South Gable of -Elphinstone Aisle.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The Elphinstone aisle, which is separated from the nave by a -semicircular arch, presents no architectural features of note; but on -the exterior of the gable towards the south there is a well-preserved -stone (<a href="#fig_432">Fig. 432</a>), with shield bearing the Elphinstone arms, parted per -pale with those of Livingstone and Calendar quarterly, with the motto -“Cavis Cavis” (Caus Caus), the date 1593, and at either side the letters -M A ♢ E and I ♢ L ME, the initials of Alexander, fourth Lord -Elphinstone, and his wife Jane, eldest daughter of William, sixth Lord -Livingstone.</p> - -<p>The tower contains, on the lintel of the doorway, the inscription I V L -Y + THE + 15 + 1647, doubtless the date of its erection. The other parts -of the church appear to be of late seventeenth century work, and need -not be further referred to.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_471" id="page_471">{471}</a></span></p> - -<h3>LASSWADE CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Mid-Lothian</span>.</h3> - -<p>Lasswade is a village on the south bank of the river Esk, about six -miles south from Edinburgh. The old Parish Church stood, till 1866, in -the ancient churchyard, on a height above the south side of the river. -“It became a mensal church of the Bishopric of St. Andrews in the -twelfth century, forming a prebend of St. Salvator’s Church; but was -annexed to the Collegiate Church of Restalrig, in the reign of King -James <small>III.</small>”<a name="FNanchor_199_199" id="FNanchor_199_199"></a><a href="#Footnote_199_199" class="fnanchor">[199]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_433" id="fig_433"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_471.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_471.png" width="425" height="310" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 433.</span>—Lasswade Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The old structure having become unsuitable, a new church was erected in -1793, and the old building was allowed to fall into ruins. Some -portions, however, were preserved, and converted into mausoleums. In one -of these aisles lie the remains of Henry Dundas, first Lord Melville; in -another is buried the poet Drummond of Hawthornden.</p> - -<p>The old church (<a href="#fig_433">Fig. 433</a>) consisted of a single oblong chamber 20 feet -in width, with a tower 16 feet square at the west end. The aisles, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_472" id="page_472">{472}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_434" id="fig_434"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_472.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_472.png" width="541" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 434.</span>—Lasswade Church. East, West, and North -Elevations.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_473" id="page_473">{473}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">mausoleums, above referred to, are projected from the north side. The -westmost is roofed with stone slabs, and has a picturesque appearance.</p> - -<p>The tower and a portion of the church were of considerable age, and may -be classed as Transition work. In 1866 the tower had become much crushed -and dangerous. While steps were being taken by the heritors</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_435" id="fig_435"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_473.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_473.png" width="276" height="399" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 435.</span>—Lasswade Church. South Elevation.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">to have it strengthened the tower fell. The accompanying drawings were -made before that event.</p> - -<p>The tower (<a href="#fig_434">Fig. 434</a>) was three stories in height, besides the gables of -the saddle roof which crowned it. The entrance to the tower was from the -inside of the church by a round-headed doorway (see East Elevation), -with simple impost and plain arch with hood moulding. Above this was a -large round-arched opening into the roof of the church. The two lower -stories had narrow pointed windows. The top story had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_474" id="page_474">{474}</a></span> double-pointed -lights, with central mullion in each face. This story had an enriched -cornice, above which rose the east and west gables, each with a small -round-headed window. A door had been knocked into the tower on the south -side (<a href="#fig_435">Fig. 435</a>), which, doubtless, helped to weaken it.</p> - -<p>In a portion of the south wall of the church, near the tower, there was -preserved an original doorway (see <a href="#fig_435">Fig. 435.</a>) about 5 feet 6 inches wide. -It resembled that to the tower in design, having plain jambs, with a -string course forming the imposts, and a plain round arch above, -enclosed with a hood moulding. All the above features seem to point to -the structure being one of the first half of the thirteenth century.</p> - -<p>Annexed is a sketch of the effigy of a knight in armour (<a href="#fig_436">Fig. 436</a>), -which is lying in the churchyard. There is no record of the knight’s -name.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_436" id="fig_436"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_474-a.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_474-a.png" width="360" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 436.</span>—Effigy in Churchyard.</p></div> -</div> - -<h3>BATHGATE CHURCH, <span class="smcap">Linlithgowshire</span>.</h3> - -<p>About one mile east from the town of Bathgate stands the old ruined -church, surrounded by an ancient burial-ground. It is a long, narrow,</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_437" id="fig_437"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_474-b.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_474-b.png" width="332" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 437.</span>—Bathgate Church. Plan.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_475" id="page_475">{475}</a></span></p> - -<p class="nind">ivy-covered building (<a href="#fig_437">Fig. 437</a>), measuring internally about 91 feet 2 -inches from east to west by 19 feet 5 inches from north to south, with -walls from 3 to 4 feet in thickness. The doorway, which was probably -round arched, is almost the only feature of its architecture left. The -opening is unusually wide, showing 7 feet of daylight (see <a href="#fig_437">Fig. 437.</a>), -and, judging from its details, the church belonged to the transitional -period. The doorway was decorated with shafts placed in square nooks or -recesses, with carved capitals having the square abacus, a certain -feature of early work. (<a href="#fig_438">Fig. 438.</a>) Both inside and outside the walls are -so entirely covered either with ivy or tombstones that almost no part of -the masonry can be seen; only one small window on the north side, about -six inches wide, being partly visible.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_438" id="fig_438"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_475.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_475.png" width="300" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 438.</span>—Bathgate Church. Caps.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The grave slab (<a href="#fig_439">Fig. 439</a>) has lately been fixed into the south wall. -Some time ago it was lying on the floor. It measures 6 feet 2 inches -long by 2 feet 3 inches wide, and bears a beautifully lettered -inscription to the memory of Andreas Crichton. In the centre of the slab -there is a cross, with the Calvary steps, and beneath the cross limb a -shield with the Crichton arms (a lion rampant), and on the dexter side a -long sword.</p> - -<p>In the Exchequer Rolls for the year 1497, Andrew Crichton of Drumcorse -(the name of the estate adjoining the church on the north) first comes -into view. On the 1st May 1502, Crichton entered office as the -Chamberlain of the Lordship of Linlithgowshire. He presents his accounts -yearly, his last being rendered from July 1513 to July 1514, when he -presumably died. His monumental slab was, doubtless, carved shortly -after that date.</p> - -<p>There is a very beautiful recumbent statue (<a href="#fig_440">Fig. 440</a>) lying in the -church. It appears to be an early work, but no record exists to tell -whose memory it commemorates.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_476" id="page_476">{476}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_439" id="fig_439"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_476.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_476.png" width="619" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 439.</span>—Bathgate Church. Slab in Church to Andreas -Crichton.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_477" id="page_477">{477}</a></span></p> - -<p>Malcolm <small>IV.</small> (1153 to 1165) granted the church of “Bathket,” with certain -lands, to Holyrood.<a name="FNanchor_200_200" id="FNanchor_200_200"></a><a href="#Footnote_200_200" class="fnanchor">[200]</a> Robert, Bishop of St. Andrews, who died about -1159, confirmed those grants. There was, further, a Papal confirmation -in 1164. In 1251, by a taxation of churches in the diocese of St. -Andrews, the vicar of the Church of Bathgate was to receive 12 merks of -the altar dues, to be assigned him at the sight of William, Archdeacon -of Lothian, and Master Alexander, of Edinburgh. This was confirmed by -Bishop Gamelin.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<p><a name="fig_440" id="fig_440"></a></p> -<a href="images/ill_pg_477.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_477.png" width="336" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 440.</span>—Bathgate Church. Effigy.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The church and lands were afterwards given by the monks of Holyrood to -Newbotle, in payment of arrears of rent for lands and salt works in the -Carse of Callender, and this was confirmed by Bishop Landels, of St. -Andrews, in 1327.<a name="FNanchor_201_201" id="FNanchor_201_201"></a><a href="#Footnote_201_201" class="fnanchor">[201]</a> The church remained with Newbotle, and was served -by a vicar till the Reformation.</p> - -<p>The old church was probably abandoned in 1739, when a new church was -erected in the town of Bathgate.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_478" id="page_478">{478}</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_478.png"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_478.png" height="350" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>From Dryburgh Abbey.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_479" id="page_479">{479}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2> - -<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I-i">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>.</p> - -<p class="nind"> - -<a name="A" id="A"></a>Abb’s, St., Chapel, 4<a href="#page_37">37</a>.<br /> - -Abercorn Church, description, <a href="#page_346">346</a>.<br /> - -Aberdeen Cathedral, <a href="#page_47">47</a>.<br /> - -—— St. Nicholas, description, <a href="#page_426">426</a>.<br /> - -Abernethy Tower, <a href="#page_11">11</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_175">175</a>.</span><br /> - -Adamnan, <a href="#page_11">11</a>.<br /> - -Aidan, St., <a href="#page_11">11</a>.<br /> - -Airth Church, description, <a href="#page_465">465</a>.<br /> - -Alexander <small>I.</small>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.<br /> - -—— <small>II.</small> and <small>III.</small>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>.<br /> - -Allen, J. Romilly, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -Alnwick, <a href="#page_47">47</a>.<br /> - -Anchorites, <a href="#page_1">1</a>.<br /> - -Anderson, Dr. Joseph, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_66">66</a>.<br /> - -Antiquaries of Scotland, <a href="#page_101">101</a>.<br /> - -Arbroath Abbey, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>.<br /> - -Arched style of building, <a href="#page_32">32</a>.<br /> - -Architecture, Scottish, of Fourteenth to Sixteenth Centuries, <a href="#page_50">50</a>.<br /> - -—— Division of, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.<br /> - -—— Ceases to be like English, <a href="#page_52">52</a>.<br /> - -—— Connection with French, <a href="#page_52">52</a>.<br /> - -Ardoilean, <a href="#page_8">8</a>.<br /> - -Armstrong, R. B., <a href="#page_465">465</a>.<br /> - -Augustine, St., <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -Aula, St., Gress, Lewis, <a href="#page_83">83</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="B" id="B"></a>Bangor Monastery, <a href="#page_5">5</a>.<br /> - -Bathgate Church, description, <a href="#page_474">474</a>.<br /> - -Bede, <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -Beehive Cells, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_24">24</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a>.<br /> - -Benedict Biscop, <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -Beverley Minster, <a href="#page_54">54</a>.<br /> - -Birnie, St. Brandon’s, description, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.<br /> - -Birsay, Brough of, <a href="#page_135">135</a>.<br /> - -Blane’s, St., Bute, description, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.<br /> - -Boniface, St., <a href="#page_14">14</a>.<br /> - -Boswell’s, St., description, <a href="#page_377">377</a>.<br /> - -Brandon’s, St., Birnie, <a href="#page_218">218</a>.<br /> - -Brechin Cathedral, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>.<br /> - -—— Tower, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br /> - -—— Maison Dieu, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br /> - -Brendan, St., <a href="#page_67">67</a>.<br /> - -Brude, King, <a href="#page_10">10</a>.<br /> - -Bunkle Church, description, <a href="#page_314">314</a>.<br /> - -Burgundy, <a href="#page_35">35</a>.<br /> - -Bute, St. Blane’s, <a href="#page_292">292</a>.<br /> - -Buttresses introduced, <a href="#page_34">34</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="C" id="C"></a>Caithness Cathedral, <a href="#page_47">47</a>.<br /> - -Cambuskenneth Abbey, <a href="#page_30">30</a>.<br /> - -<i>Candida Casa</i>, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_5">5</a>.<br /> - -Canmore, Malcolm, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.<br /> - -Canterbury Cathedral, <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -Cara, Gigha, Kintyre, <a href="#page_82">82</a>.<br /> - -Carinish, North Uist, <a href="#page_81">81</a>.<br /> - -Carmaig, St., Eilean Mor, <a href="#page_90">90</a>.<br /> - -—— Knapdale, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.<br /> - -Cashels, Irish, <a href="#page_7">7</a>.<br /> - -Catan’s, St., Kintyre, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.<br /> - -Cathedrals, Scottish, <a href="#page_49">49</a>.<br /> - -Caves, <a href="#page_5">5</a>.<br /> - -Cellach, <a href="#page_15">15</a>.<br /> - -Celtic Art, <a href="#page_1">1</a>.<br /> - -—— Church, <a href="#page_65">65</a>.<br /> - -—— Churches standing alone, <a href="#page_78">78</a>.<br /> - -—— —— built with chancel and nave, <a href="#page_93">93</a>.<br /> - -—— —— with pointed or late features, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.<br /> - -—— Structures in Scotland, <a href="#page_65">65</a>.<br /> - -Chancel architecturally distinguished, <a href="#page_79">79</a>.<br /> - -—— added to nave, <a href="#page_79">79</a>.<br /> - -Chirnside Church, description, <a href="#page_322">322</a>.<br /> - -Churches, dry built, <a href="#page_80">80</a>.<br /> - -—— oblong, modified, <a href="#page_82">82</a>.<br /> - -—— with nave and chancel added, <a href="#page_88">88</a>.<br /> - -—— on islands, <a href="#page_105">105</a>.<br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_480" id="page_480">{480}</a></span>—— in Orkney, <a href="#page_113">113</a>.<br /> - -Clonmacnoise, <a href="#page_10">10</a>.<br /> - -Coalisport, Loch, <a href="#page_10">10</a>.<br /> - -Coldingham Priory, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_437">437</a>.</span><br /> - -Columba, St., <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a>.<br /> - -—— Church, Balivanich, <a href="#page_88">88</a>.<br /> - -—— —— Ey., Lewis, <a href="#page_91">91</a>.<br /> - -—— —— Kiels, Kintyre, <a href="#page_92">92</a>.<br /> - -—— Isle, Lewis, <a href="#page_97">97</a>.<br /> - -Columban Church, <a href="#page_11">11</a>, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a>.<br /> - -—— Churches, <a href="#page_25">25</a>.<br /> - -Collegiate Churches, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>.<br /> - -Comgall, St., <a href="#page_5">5</a>.<br /> - -Cormac’s Chapel, <a href="#page_28">28</a>.<br /> - -Crosses, <a href="#page_9">9</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a>.<br /> - -Cross, St., Church, <a href="#page_36">36</a>.<br /> - -Crosraguel Abbey, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>.<br /> - -Cruggleton Church, description, <a href="#page_212">212</a>.<br /> - -Culbinsbrough Church, Bressay, <a href="#page_157">157</a>.<br /> - -Culdees, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>.<br /> - -Culross Abbey, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br /> - -Cuthbert, St., <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="D" id="D"></a>Dalmeny Church, <a href="#page_38">38</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_298">298</a>.</span><br /> - -Dalriada, <a href="#page_10">10</a>.<br /> - -David <small>I.</small>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a>.<br /> - -Decorated Architecture, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.<br /> - -Deerness, Brough of, <a href="#page_68">68</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>.<br /> - -Denis, St., <a href="#page_40">40</a>.<br /> - -“Deserts,” <a href="#page_8">8</a>.<br /> - -Devenish, Round Tower, <a href="#page_27">27</a>.<br /> - -Dioceses, Scottish, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.<br /> - -Doorways, <a href="#page_55">55</a>.<br /> - -Drummond, James, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -Dryburgh Abbey, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_448">448</a>.</span><br /> - -Dryden, Sir Henry, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>.<br /> - -Duddingston Church, <a href="#page_39">39</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_333">333</a>.</span><br /> - -Dunblane Cathedral, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>.<br /> - -Dundrennan Abbey, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_388">388</a>.</span><br /> - -Dunfermline Abbey, <a href="#page_38">38</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_230">230</a>.</span><br /> - -Dunkeld Cathedral, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>.<br /> - -Dunning, St. Serf’s, description, <a href="#page_204">204</a>.<br /> - -Dun Othail, Lewis, <a href="#page_81">81</a>.<br /> - -Duns Church, description, <a href="#page_381">381</a>.<br /> - -Dunstaffnage Castle, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br /> - -Durham Cathedral, <a href="#page_37">37</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="E" id="E"></a>Edinburgh Castle, Chapel, <a href="#page_29">29</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_224">224</a>.</span><br /> - -Edrom Church, <a href="#page_316">316</a>.<br /> - -Edward <small>I.</small>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>.<br /> - -Egilsey, Orkney, Church on, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>.<br /> - -—— Choir, <a href="#page_100">100</a>.<br /> - -Eilean Naomh, <a href="#page_66">66</a>.<br /> - -—— Mòr, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>.<br /> - -—— Munde, <a href="#page_83">83</a>.<br /> - -Elgin Cathedral, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>.<br /> - -English Cathedrals, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.<br /> - -England, Church in, <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -Enhallow, Orkney, <a href="#page_116">116</a>.<br /> - -Eorrapidh, Lewis, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="F" id="F"></a>Farne Island, <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -Finnian, St., School of, <a href="#page_5">5</a>.<br /> - -First Pointed Style, <a href="#page_39">39</a>.<br /> - -—— —— in Scotland, <a href="#page_46">46</a>.<br /> - -“Flamboyant” Style, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>.<br /> - -Flannain Isles, <a href="#page_77">77</a>.<br /> - -Fortrose Cathedral, <a href="#page_57">57</a>.<br /> - -France, Architecture in, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="G" id="G"></a>Galloway, William, <a href="#page_297">297</a>.<br /> - -Gallowhead, <a href="#page_80">80</a>.<br /> - -Germany, <a href="#page_35">35</a>.<br /> - -Giles’, St., Edinburgh, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>.<br /> - -Giric, King, <a href="#page_15">15</a>.<br /> - -Glasgow, Bishop of, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.<br /> - -—— Cathedral, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>.<br /> - -Gothic Architecture in Scotland, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -Gullane, St. Andrew’s, <a href="#page_339">339</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="H" id="H"></a>Haddington, St. Martin’s, description, <a href="#page_362">362</a>.<br /> - -Halcro Chapel, South Ronaldshay, <a href="#page_105">105</a>.<br /> - -Head of Holland, Church at, <a href="#page_105">105</a>.<br /> - -Helen’s, St., Church, description, <a href="#page_323">323</a>.<br /> - -Herdmanston Font, description, <a href="#page_384">384</a>.<br /> - -Hermits’ Cells, <a href="#page_73">73</a>.<br /> - -Hexham, <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -Holy Cross Church, Lewis, <a href="#page_83">83</a>.<br /> - -Holyrood Abbey, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br /> - -Howmore, South Uist, <a href="#page_70">70</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="I-i" id="I-i"></a>Inchcolm Abbey, <a href="#page_29">29</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br /> - -—— Oratory, <a href="#page_24">24</a>.<br /> - -Inch Kenneth, Ulva, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.<br /> - -—— Mull, <a href="#page_165">165</a>.<br /> - -Inchmahome, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br /> - -Iona, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_11">11</a>, <a href="#page_14">14</a>.<br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_481" id="page_481">{481}</a></span>—— Cathedral, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>.<br /> - -Iona, Carved Slabs, <a href="#page_23">23</a>.<br /> - -—— The Nunnery, description, <a href="#page_421">421</a>.<br /> - -Irish influence, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_9">9</a>.<br /> - -—— Style of building, <a href="#page_8">8</a>, <a href="#page_9">9</a>.<br /> - -—— Round Towers, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_28">28</a>.<br /> - -Islands, Churches on, <a href="#page_8">8</a>.<br /> - -—— Western, Architecture of, <a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="J" id="J"></a>Jarkow, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a>.<br /> - -Jedburgh Abbey, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_398">398</a>.</span><br /> - -John the Baptist, Church of, Lewis, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.<br /> - -—— St., Kirk of, Unst, <a href="#page_148">148</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="K" id="K"></a>Kelso Abbey, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_347">347</a>.</span><br /> - -Kentigern, St., <a href="#page_11">11</a>.<br /> - -Kevin, St., Cell of, <a href="#page_9">9</a>.<br /> - -Kiels, Knapdale, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.<br /> - -Kilbar, Barra, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_72">72</a>.<br /> - -Kilbride, Knapdale, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.<br /> - -Kilchenich, Tiree, <a href="#page_88">88</a>.<br /> - -Kilchenzie, Kintyre, <a href="#page_93">93</a>.<br /> - -Kilchieran, Islay, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.<br /> - -Kilchieven, Kintyre, <a href="#page_100">100</a>.<br /> - -Kilchoman Cross, <a href="#page_22">22</a>.<br /> - -Kilchouslan, Kintyre, <a href="#page_92">92</a>.<br /> - -Kildalton, Islay, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.<br /> - -Killean, Kintyre, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.<br /> - -Kilmory, Knapdale, <a href="#page_85">85</a>.<br /> - -Kilmuir, Skye, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.<br /> - -Kilnaughton, Islay, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.<br /> - -Kilneave, Islay, <a href="#page_96">96</a>.<br /> - -Kilrimont, <a href="#page_11">11</a>.<br /> - -King’s College, Aberdeen, <a href="#page_62">62</a>.<br /> - -Kinloss Abbey, <a href="#page_30">30</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_416">416</a>.</span><br /> - -Kintyre, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a>.<br /> - -Kirkaby, Westray, Shetland, <a href="#page_147">147</a>.<br /> - -Kirkapoll, Tiree, <a href="#page_87">87</a>.<br /> - -Kirkliston, description, <a href="#page_366">366</a>.<br /> - -Kirkmadrine, Crosses at, <a href="#page_4">4</a>.<br /> - -Kirkmaiden, description, <a href="#page_383">383</a>.<br /> - -Kirkwall, St. Magnus’ Cathedral, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_259">259</a>.</span><br /> - -—— St. Ola, <a href="#page_109">109</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="L" id="L"></a>Laggan, Mull, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.<br /> - -Lamington Church, description, <a href="#page_376">376</a>.<br /> - -Lanark Church, <a href="#page_50">50</a>.<br /> - -Lasswade Church, description, <a href="#page_471">471</a>.<br /> - -Late or Third Pointed Style, <a href="#page_58">58</a>.<br /> - -—— in Scotland, <a href="#page_60">60</a>.<br /> - -Legerwood Church, description, <a href="#page_320">320</a>.<br /> - -Leuchars Church, <a href="#page_38">38</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_309">309</a>.</span><br /> - -Lewis, Butt of, <a href="#page_75">75</a>.<br /> - -Lincluden College, <a href="#page_57">57</a>.<br /> - -Lincoln Cathedral, <a href="#page_45">45</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>.<br /> - -Lindisfarne, <a href="#page_11">11</a>.<br /> - -Linlithgow Church, <a href="#page_57">57</a>.<br /> - -Linton Church, Roxburghshire, description, <a href="#page_378">378</a>.<br /> - -Linton, Shapinsay, <a href="#page_122">122</a>.<br /> - -Logierait Cross, <a href="#page_18">18</a>.<br /> - -Lombardy, <a href="#page_35">35</a>.<br /> - -Lundie, St. Lawrence, description, <a href="#page_382">382</a>.<br /> - -Lybster, Caithness, Church, <a href="#page_162">162</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="M" id="M"></a>M‘Alpine, Kenneth, <a href="#page_14">14</a>.<br /> - -M‘Lean’s Cross, Iona, <a href="#page_21">21</a>.<br /> - -Madoe’s, St., Cross, <a href="#page_17">17</a>.<br /> - -Magnus’, St., Cathedral, <a href="#page_259">259</a>.<br /> - -Margaret, Queen, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_28">28</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.<br /> - -Markinch Tower, description, <a href="#page_193">193</a>.<br /> - -Martin’s, St., Church, Haddington, description, <a href="#page_362">362</a>.<br /> - -—— Cross, Iona, <a href="#page_21">21</a>.<br /> - -Mary’s, St., Lybster, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>.<br /> - -—— Ratho, description, <a href="#page_371">371</a>.<br /> - -—— Rutherglen, description, <a href="#page_372">372</a>.<br /> - -Meal Colvidale, Unst, <a href="#page_148">148</a>.<br /> - -Medan’s, St., Cave, <a href="#page_5">5</a>.<br /> - -Melrose Abbey, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>.<br /> - -—— Old, <a href="#page_11">11</a>.<br /> - -Michael’s, St., Barra, <a href="#page_95">95</a>.<br /> - -Middle Ages, art of, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -Middle Pointed Style, characteristics, <a href="#page_53">53</a>.<br /> - -—— —— in Scotland, <a href="#page_55">55</a>.<br /> - -Moluac, St., Raasay, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.<br /> - -—— Teampull, Lewis, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.<br /> - -Monasteries established, <a href="#page_31">31</a>.<br /> - -—— in Scotland, proportions, <a href="#page_49">49</a>.<br /> - -Monkwearmouth, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a>.<br /> - -Monymusk, <a href="#page_30">30</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_215">215</a>.</span><br /> - -Mugstot, Skye, <a href="#page_69">69</a>.<br /> - -Muir, T. S., <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a>.<br /> - -Muthill Church, description, <a href="#page_196">196</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="N" id="N"></a>Nattes, J. Claude, <a href="#page_196">196</a>.<br /> - -Ness, North Yell, <a href="#page_151">151</a>.<br /> - -Netherlands, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -New Abbey, <a href="#page_50">50</a>.<br /> - -Newbattle Abbey, <a href="#page_30">30</a>.<br /> - -Nicholas’, St., Aberdeen, <a href="#page_39">39</a>;<br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_482" id="page_482">{482}</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_426">426</a>.</span><br /> - -Nicholas’, St., Strathbroc, description, <a href="#page_342">342</a>.<br /> - -Ninian, St., <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Ninian’s, St., Sanda, <a href="#page_97">97</a>.<br /> - -Norman Architecture, <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_28">28</a>.<br /> - -—— —— in Scotland, <a href="#page_191">191</a>.<br /> - -—— Immigrants, <a href="#page_30">30</a>.<br /> - -—— Influence, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.<br /> - -—— Style, <a href="#page_35">35</a>.<br /> - -—— —— in Scotland, <a href="#page_38">38</a>.<br /> - -Norsemen, <a href="#page_14">14</a>.<br /> - -Northumbria, Church in, <a href="#page_11">11</a>, <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -Noss Kirk of Bressay, <a href="#page_146">146</a>.<br /> - -Nunnery, The, Iona, description, <a href="#page_421">421</a>.<br /> - -Nuntown, Benbecula, <a href="#page_83">83</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="O" id="O"></a>Ola’s, St., Kirkwall, <a href="#page_109">109</a>.<br /> - -Olrig, Caithness, <a href="#page_99">99</a>.<br /> - -Oran’s, St., Iona, <a href="#page_220">220</a>.<br /> - -Oratories, Irish, <a href="#page_8">8</a>.<br /> - -“Orders” in Architecture, <a href="#page_33">33</a>.<br /> - -Orkney, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Orkney and Shetland, Churches, <a href="#page_101">101</a>.<br /> - -—— Characteristics, <a href="#page_159">159</a>.<br /> - -—— Dates, <a href="#page_162">162</a>.<br /> - -—— Monuments, <a href="#page_160">160</a>.<br /> - -—— Proportions, <a href="#page_161">161</a>.<br /> - -Ornament, <a href="#page_35">35</a>.<br /> - -Oronsay, Cross at, <a href="#page_22">22</a>.<br /> - -Orphir, Orkney, <a href="#page_141">141</a>.<br /> - -Oswald’s, St., Oxstall, <a href="#page_47">47</a>.<br /> - -Oxstall, St. Oswald’s, <a href="#page_47">47</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="P" id="P"></a>Pabba, Harris, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.<br /> - -Paisley Abbey, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>.<br /> - -Palladius, St., <a href="#page_5">5</a>.<br /> - -Papa Westray, <a href="#page_106">106</a>.<br /> - -Parochial divisions, <a href="#page_31">31</a>.<br /> - -Patrick, St., <a href="#page_5">5</a>.<br /> - -Pennygowan, Mull, <a href="#page_98">98</a>.<br /> - -Periods of Architecture, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -Perpendicular Style, <a href="#page_2">2</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>.<br /> - -Peterhead, St. Peter’s, <a href="#page_371">371</a>.<br /> - -Peter’s, St., Peterhead, description, <a href="#page_371">371</a>.<br /> - -Petrie, Dr., <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>.<br /> - -Piers, <a href="#page_55">55</a>.<br /> - -Pillar Stones, <a href="#page_9">9</a>.<br /> - -Pluscardine Abbey, <a href="#page_58">58</a>.<br /> - -Pointed Arch, <a href="#page_79">79</a>.<br /> - -—— Style, <a href="#page_40">40</a>.<br /> - -Pre-Norman Churches, <a href="#page_13">13</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="R" id="R"></a>Ratho, St. Mary’s, description, <a href="#page_371">371</a>.<br /> - -“Raths,” Irish, <a href="#page_6">6</a>.<br /> - -Reeves, Dr., <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Regulus’, St. Andrews, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_28">28</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_185">185</a>.</span><br /> - -Reilig Oran, <a href="#page_28">28</a>.<br /> - -Restennet Priory, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_178">178</a>.</span><br /> - -Richard <small>II.</small>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>.<br /> - -Rievaux Abbey, <a href="#page_47">47</a>.<br /> - -Ripon, <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -Robert <small>I.</small>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>.<br /> - -Roman Church, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a>.<br /> - -—— Masonry, <a href="#page_32">32</a>.<br /> - -Romanesque Architecture, <a href="#page_1">1</a>, <a href="#page_28">28</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_35">35</a>.<br /> - -Ronan, St., <a href="#page_73">73</a>.<br /> - -Round Churches, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.<br /> - -Rossie Priory, Cross at, <a href="#page_19">19</a>.<br /> - -Royal Domain, France, <a href="#page_40">40</a>.<br /> - -Rutherglen, St. Mary’s, description, <a href="#page_372">372</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="S" id="S"></a>St. Andrews, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>.<br /> - -Salisbury Cathedral, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_44">44</a>.<br /> - -Saxon Influence, <a href="#page_1">1</a>.<br /> - -Scone, <a href="#page_29">29</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>.<br /> - -Sculptured Stones, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_16">16</a>.<br /> - -Sculptures, Symbolic, <a href="#page_10">10</a>.<br /> - -Seven Hunters, <a href="#page_77">77</a>.<br /> - -Shetland, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -—— Churches in, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>.<br /> - -Skeabost, Skye, <a href="#page_68">68</a>.<br /> - -Skellig Mhichel, <a href="#page_7">7</a>.<br /> - -Skipness, St. Columba’s, <a href="#page_48">48</a>.<br /> - -Slabs, cross bearing, <a href="#page_9">9</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a>.<br /> - -Smailholm Church, description, <a href="#page_378">378</a>.<br /> - -Spires with open work, <a href="#page_62">62</a>.<br /> - -Stobo Church, <a href="#page_39">39</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_329">329</a>.</span><br /> - -Stokes, Miss, <a href="#page_3">3</a>.<br /> - -Strathbroc, St. Nicholas’, description, <a href="#page_342">342</a>.<br /> - -Subordination of Arches, &c., <a href="#page_35">35</a>.<br /> - -Suger, Abbé, <a href="#page_40">40</a>.<br /> - -Sweudro, Rousay, <a href="#page_108">108</a>.<br /> - -Sweetheart Abbey, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>.<br /> - -Symbols, <a href="#page_16">16</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="T" id="T"></a>Teampull Chalumchille, <a href="#page_89">89</a>.<br /> - -—— Pheadair, Lewis, <a href="#page_83">83</a>.<br /> - -—— Rona, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>.<br /> - -—— Sula Sgeir, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>.<br /> - -—— Na-Trianaide, <a href="#page_81">81</a>.<br /> - -Thomas, Captain, <a href="#page_82">82</a>.<br /> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_483" id="page_483">{483}</a></span>Tigh Beannachadh, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>.<br /> - -Toehead, Harris, <a href="#page_83">83</a>.<br /> - -Transition Style, <a href="#page_387">387</a>.<br /> - -—— from Celtic to Norman, <a href="#page_174">174</a>.<br /> - -Tredwell’s, St., Chapel, <a href="#page_106">106</a>.<br /> - -Trinity College, Edinburgh, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>.<br /> - -Trophime, St., Arles, <a href="#page_33">33</a>.<br /> - -Trumpan, Skye, <a href="#page_84">84</a>.<br /> - -Turgot, <a href="#page_29">29</a>.<br /> - -Tynninghame Church, description, <a href="#page_326">326</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="V" id="V"></a>Vaults, Barrel, <a href="#page_33">33</a>.<br /> - -—— Groined, <a href="#page_34">34</a>.<br /> - -—— Late, <a href="#page_58">58</a>.<br /> - -—— Pointed, <a href="#page_40">40</a>.<br /> - -Vigeans, St., Cross, <a href="#page_20">20</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="U" id="U"></a>Uphall Church, <a href="#page_39">39</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description, <a href="#page_342">342</a>.</span><br /> - -Urquhart, <a href="#page_30">30</a>.<br /> - -Uya Church, Shetland, <a href="#page_149">149</a>.<br /> - -<br /> -<a name="W" id="W"></a>Wattle Construction, <a href="#page_6">6</a>.<br /> - -Wenlock Abbey, <a href="#page_47">47</a>.<br /> - -Westness Chapel, <a href="#page_108">108</a>.<br /> - -Westray, Orkney, <a href="#page_124">124</a>.<br /> - -Whithorn, Crosses at, <a href="#page_4">4</a>.<br /> - -William the Lion, <a href="#page_38">38</a>.<br /> - -Wilson, Sir Daniel, <a href="#page_2">2</a>.<br /> - -Winchester Cathedral, <a href="#page_61">61</a>.<br /> - -Winifred, St., <a href="#page_12">12</a>.<br /> - -Wooden Roofs, <a href="#page_60">60</a>.<br /> - -Wyre, Orkney, <a href="#page_113">113</a>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_484" id="page_484">{484}</a></span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_485" id="page_485">{485}</a></span> </p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="cb"> -ARCHITECTURAL<br /> -<br /> -ARCHÆOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL WORKS<br /> -<br /> -RECENTLY PUBLISHED<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">By</span> DAVID DOUGLAS<br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_486" id="page_486">{486}</a></span></p> - 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Roman Medicine Stamps, etc., etc.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_498" id="page_498">{498}</a></span></p> -<hr /> -<p class="c"><i>Two Volumes Demy 8vo, 19s. 6d.</i></p> - -<p class="c"><big><big>S O C I A L L I F E</big></big> - -<br /><br />IN FORMER DAYS<br /><br /> - -CHIEFLY IN THE PROVINCE OF MORAY<br /><br /> -<span class="eng"> -Illustrated by Letters and Family Papers</span><br /><br /> -<span class="smcap">By</span> E. DUNBAR DUNBAR<br /> -<small>LATE CAPTAIN 21ST FUSILIERS</small></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_498.png" width="400" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>THUNDERTON HOUSE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="c">EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_499" id="page_499">{499}</a></span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><i>One Volume Demy 8vo, price 14s.</i></p> - -<p class="c"><big>EARLY TRAVELLERS -<br /> -IN SCOTLAND</big> -<br /><br /> -1295-1689 -<br /><br /> -<small>EDITED BY</small> -<br /> -P. HUME BROWN -<br /><small> -AUTHOR OF ‘THE LIFE OF GEORGE BUCHANAN’</small></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_499.png" width="175" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="c">EDINBURGH:</p> - -<p class="c">DAVID DOUGLAS, 10 CASTLE STREET.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_500" id="page_500">{500}</a></span></p> -<hr /> -<p class="cb">P. Hume Brown.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">George Buchanan, Humanist and Reformer: a Biography By <span class="smcap">P. Hume -Brown</span>. Demy 8vo, 12s.</p></div> - -<p>“There is, perhaps, no eminent Scotsman who has stood in better need of -an impartial and scholarly biography than George Buchanan; and Mr Hume -Brown is to be congratulated on having in the present volume produced a -model of its kind.”—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Tours in Scotland, 1677 and 1681. By <span class="smcap">Thomas Kirk</span> and <span class="smcap">Ralph -Thoresby</span>. Edited by <span class="smcap">P. Hume Brown</span>. Demy 8vo, 5s.</p></div> - -<p>A lucky accident having brought these two interesting narratives to -light since the “Early Travellers in Scotland” was published, it was -thought desirable to reprint them uniform with that book.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Scotland Before 1700. From Contemporary Documents. Forming a -Companion Volume to “Early Travellers in Scotland.” By <span class="smcap">P. Hume -Brown</span>, Author of “The Life of George Buchanan,” &c. Demy 8vo, 14s.</p></div> - -<p class="cb">Bishop Forbes.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Kalendars of Scottish Saints. With Personal Notices of those of -Alba, etc. By <span class="smcap">Alexander Penrose Forbes</span>, D.C.L., Bishop of Brechin. -4to, price £3, 3s. A few copies for sale on large paper, £5, 15s. -6d.</p></div> - -<p>“A truly valuable contribution to the archæology of -Scotland.”—<i>Guardian.</i></p> - -<p class="cb">Thomas S. Muir.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Ecclesiological Notes on some of the Islands of Scotland, with -other Papers relating to Ecclesiological Remains on the Scottish -Mainland and Islands. By <span class="smcap">Thomas S. Muir</span>, Author of “Characteristics -of Church Architecture,” etc. Demy 8vo, with numerous -Illustrations, 21s.</p></div> - -<p class="cb">Sir Samuel Ferguson.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Ogham Inscriptions in Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. By the late <span class="smcap">Sir -Samuel Ferguson</span>, President of the Royal Irish Academy, Deputy -Keeper of the Public Records of Ireland, LL.D., Queen’s Counsel, -etc. (Being the Rhind Lectures in Archæology for 1884.) 1 vol. demy -8vo, 12s.</p></div> - -<p class="cb">Miss Maclagan.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The Hill Forts, Stone Circles, and other Structural Remains of -Ancient Scotland. By <span class="smcap">C. Maclagan</span>, Lady Associate of the Society of -Antiquaries of Scotland. With Plans and Illustrations. Folio, 31s. -6d.</p></div> - -<p>“We need not enlarge on the few inconsequential speculations which rigid -archæologists may find in the present volume. We desire rather to -commend it to their careful study, fully assured that not only they, but -also the general reader, will be edified by its perusal.”—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> - -<p class="cb">Prof. Baldwin Brown.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">From Schola to Cathedral. A Study of Early Christian Architecture -in its relation to the life of the Church. By <span class="smcap">G. Baldwin Brown</span>, -Professor of Fine Art in the University of Edinburgh. Demy 8vo, -Illustrated, 7s. 6d.</p></div> - -<p>The book treats of the beginnings of Christian Architecture, from the -point of view of recent discoveries and theories, with a special -reference to the outward resemblance of early Christian communities to -other religious associations of the time.</p> - -<p class="cb">Patrick Dudgeon.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A Short Introduction to the Origin of Surnames. By <span class="smcap">Patrick Dudgeon</span>, -Cargen. Small 4to, 3s. 6d.</p></div> - -<p class="c">EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><p class="cb">FOOTNOTES:</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Skene’s <i>Celtic Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 46.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Skene, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 32.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Romilly Allen, <i>Early Christian Symbolism</i>, p. 88.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> <i>Proceedings of Antiquarian Society of Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>IX.</small> -p. 568.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> For an account of explorations and illustrations of crosses -discovered by Sir H. E. Maxwell, see <i>Ayr and Galloway Association</i>, -Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 1, and Vol. <small>VI.</small> p. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> T. S. Muir, <i>Ecclesiastical Notes</i>, p. 226.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> <i>Ayr and Galloway Association</i>, Vol. <small>VI.</small> p. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Skene, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 56.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Dunraven’s <i>Irish Architecture</i>, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. xviii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Reeves’ <i>Adamnan</i>, p. 177.—Dr. Reeves quotes many -instances of churches formed with wattles. Thus, the first church -erected in Britain, at Ynswitrin, had the walls of the chapel -constructed of twisted twigs; St. Gwynllyw, <i>circa</i> 580, founded a -temple constructed with boards and twigs. In Ireland, when St. Kieran -was preparing to build his church, a friendly wild boar is said to have -appeared and cut off twigs and ploughed up turf with his tusks so as to -furnish the Saint with materials. St. Kevin constructed his oratory with -wattles. At Raithin, St. Carthacus built himself a cell with reeds which -Columba had provided. St. Voloc also built his abode with reeds and -twigs.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> This name belonged to the Irish till about the tenth -century, when it was transferred to the inhabitants of the existing -Scotland.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Petrie, p. 446.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> For illustrations of raths and cashels, see Lord -Dunraven’s <i>Notes on Architecture</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> Petrie, p. 129.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> J. Anderson, <i>Scotland in Early Christian Times</i>, 1st -Series, p. 83.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Petrie, p. 132.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 136.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Dunraven, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 141.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Petrie, p. 162.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Dunraven, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. xx.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> See Dr. J. Anderson’s <i>Lectures on Scotland in Early -Christian Times</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Romilly Allen, pp. 82, 84.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 136.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> Skene, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 88.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Skene, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 121.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 128.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 137.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> Skene, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 212.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> “Pre-Conquest Churches of England.”—<i>Reliquary</i>, 1893.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Skene, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 227.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> Skene, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 229.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 268.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> Skene, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 309.—This round tower, no doubt, owes -its origin to the Irish influence referred to, but, as will be pointed -out, there are architectural reasons for assigning the structure to a -later period.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 320.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 331.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> See <i>Scotland in Early Christian Times</i>, by Dr. Joseph -Anderson, Vols. <small>I.</small> and <small>II.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> <i>Early Christian Times</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 95.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> Anderson, Vol. <small>II.</small> Lecture <small>IV.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> Romilly Allen, Lecture <small>VI.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> Anderson, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 80.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 130.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> Romilly Allen, p. 238.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> <i>Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>III.</small> pp. 127, 153, 206, 225; Muir’s <i>Ecclesiastical Notes</i>, p. 65.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> Anderson, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 64.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> For Illustration see <a href="#page_64">p. 64.</a></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> Anderson, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 59.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> Petrie, p. 291.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 395.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 320.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> Reeves’ <i>Adamnan</i>, p. 410.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Skene, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 368.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 374.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> <i>Celtic Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 376.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> Innes, <i>Sketches of Early Scotch History</i>, pp. 10-12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> Innes, <i>Sketches of Early Scotch History</i>, p. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> “Scottish Churches and Cathedrals,” by Dr. Joseph -Robertson, <i>Quarterly Review</i>, 1849, p. 117.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> See <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture</i>, Vol. <small>I.</small> p. -90, and Vol. <small>III.</small> p. 72.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture</i>, Vol. <small>III.</small>, -Introduction.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> Muir, <i>Old Church Architecture of Scotland</i>, p. 67.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small>, p. 130.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> See <a href="#page_8">Introduction, p. 8.</a></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> <i>Characteristics</i>, p. 141.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 142.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> For a further example of a primitive church and cells, see -the Brough of Deerness, described by Sir H. Dryden in the following -pages. It will be observed that the simple oblong church, with door in -west end and one window in east end, is surrounded with a number of -ruins of stone huts, which were no doubt the dwellings of the monastic -family of the establishment; while near the land side are the remains of -the cashel or fortification of the platform.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 272.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> <i>Characteristics</i>, p. 163.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 280.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 52.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 93.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, pp. 97-98.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> <i>Characteristics</i>, p. 205.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_76_76" id="Footnote_76_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 60.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 60.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> <i>Characteristics</i>, p. 180.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_79_79" id="Footnote_79_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> The churches in Orkney and Shetland present many fine -examples of chanceled buildings. These, although described in Mr. Muir’s -works, are more fully treated in the descriptions and illustrations -kindly supplied by Sir H. Dryden, and now printed for the first time.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_80_80" id="Footnote_80_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_81_81" id="Footnote_81_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 43.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_82_82" id="Footnote_82_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, pp. 48 and 276.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_83_83" id="Footnote_83_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> This church (Trinity) 61½ feet long; breadth, 21 feet. -North wall has a round-headed window of undressed stones at east end, 2½ -feet wide, splaying to 4½ feet inside. Arch of door obtusely pointed. On -north side a small chapel connected by round-arched porch, not bonded -into church. Entrance to chapel has inclined jambs. Chapel 23 feet long -by 13½ feet broad inside; walls 2½ feet thick. In east wall small -rectangular window, and an ambry on each side of window. Similar window -in south wall. Small chapel, believed to be very ancient. Chapel of -Carinish probably rebuilt by Amy M‘Ruari about 1390.—Captain Thomas, -<i>Archæologia Scot.</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small> p. 226.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_84_84" id="Footnote_84_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, pp. 11 and 264.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_85_85" id="Footnote_85_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_86_86" id="Footnote_86_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_87_87" id="Footnote_87_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_88_88" id="Footnote_88_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 44.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_89_89" id="Footnote_89_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 44.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_90_90" id="Footnote_90_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 278.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_91_91" id="Footnote_91_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 61.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_92_92" id="Footnote_92_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 269.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_93_93" id="Footnote_93_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 270.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_94_94" id="Footnote_94_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 180.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_95_95" id="Footnote_95_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 192.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_96_96" id="Footnote_96_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a> Dr. J. Anderson regards this as a church mentioned in a -document by Pope Gregory <small>XI.</small>, of date 20th September 1375.—<i>Scotland in -Early Christian Times.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_97_97" id="Footnote_97_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_98_98" id="Footnote_98_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> pp. 49, 278; <i>Characteristics</i>, p. 226.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_99_99" id="Footnote_99_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a> Teampull Chalumchille, Captain Thomas, <i>Archæologia</i>, Vol. -<small>V.</small> p. 239.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_100_100" id="Footnote_100_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> <i>Characteristics</i>, p. 132, and <i>Notes</i>, p. 200.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_101_101" id="Footnote_101_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 39.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_102_102" id="Footnote_102_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a> <i>Characteristics</i>, p. 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_103_103" id="Footnote_103_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_104_104" id="Footnote_104_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 107. See also drawings and description of -this church by Sir Henry Dryden (below).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_105_105" id="Footnote_105_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_106_106" id="Footnote_106_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 283.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_107_107" id="Footnote_107_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> pp. 10, 262.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_108_108" id="Footnote_108_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_109_109" id="Footnote_109_109"></a><a href="#FNanchor_109_109"><span class="label">[109]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_110_110" id="Footnote_110_110"></a><a href="#FNanchor_110_110"><span class="label">[110]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_111_111" id="Footnote_111_111"></a><a href="#FNanchor_111_111"><span class="label">[111]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_112_112" id="Footnote_112_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112_112"><span class="label">[112]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_113_113" id="Footnote_113_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113_113"><span class="label">[113]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 55.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_114_114" id="Footnote_114_114"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114_114"><span class="label">[114]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_115_115" id="Footnote_115_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115_115"><span class="label">[115]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_116_116" id="Footnote_116_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116_116"><span class="label">[116]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 28. See also illustrations and description of -this church by Sir Henry Dryden (below).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_117_117" id="Footnote_117_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117_117"><span class="label">[117]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 38.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_118_118" id="Footnote_118_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118_118"><span class="label">[118]</span></a> <i>Characteristics</i>, p. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_119_119" id="Footnote_119_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119_119"><span class="label">[119]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 55.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_120_120" id="Footnote_120_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120_120"><span class="label">[120]</span></a> <i>Notes</i>, p. 43.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_121_121" id="Footnote_121_121"></a><a href="#FNanchor_121_121"><span class="label">[121]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 109.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_122_122" id="Footnote_122_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122_122"><span class="label">[122]</span></a> See account of doorway in chapel on Brough of Birsay for -notice of this point.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_123_123" id="Footnote_123_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123_123"><span class="label">[123]</span></a> See account of doorway in chapel on Brough of Birsay for -notice of this point.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_124_124" id="Footnote_124_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124_124"><span class="label">[124]</span></a> See the first article on “Ancient Orcadia” in the -<i>Orcadian</i> of ... 1860.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_125_125" id="Footnote_125_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125_125"><span class="label">[125]</span></a> See account of Chapel on the Brough of Birsay.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_126_126" id="Footnote_126_126"></a><a href="#FNanchor_126_126"><span class="label">[126]</span></a> See account of windows in Egilsey.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_127_127" id="Footnote_127_127"></a><a href="#FNanchor_127_127"><span class="label">[127]</span></a> See observations on these entrances in notes on the -Brough of Birsay.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_128_128" id="Footnote_128_128"></a><a href="#FNanchor_128_128"><span class="label">[128]</span></a> See Petrie’s <i>Round Towers</i>, pp. 162, 181-5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_129_129" id="Footnote_129_129"></a><a href="#FNanchor_129_129"><span class="label">[129]</span></a> Ecclesiastical Notes on the Orkneys, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_130_130" id="Footnote_130_130"></a><a href="#FNanchor_130_130"><span class="label">[130]</span></a> See account of the early Bishops of Orkney by Professor -Munch, in <i>Bannatyne’s Miscellany</i>, Vol. <small>III.</small>, 1855.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_131_131" id="Footnote_131_131"></a><a href="#FNanchor_131_131"><span class="label">[131]</span></a> See Petrie’s <i>Round Towers</i>, and Wilson’s <i>Prehistoric -Annals</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_132_132" id="Footnote_132_132"></a><a href="#FNanchor_132_132"><span class="label">[132]</span></a> See Petrie’s <i>Round Towers</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_133_133" id="Footnote_133_133"></a><a href="#FNanchor_133_133"><span class="label">[133]</span></a> <i>History of Orkney</i>, p. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_134_134" id="Footnote_134_134"></a><a href="#FNanchor_134_134"><span class="label">[134]</span></a> Britton, <i>Arch. Ant.</i>, Vol. <small>I.</small>; North, <i>Arch. Soc.</i>, Part -10, 1860; Billings’ <i>Temple Church</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_135_135" id="Footnote_135_135"></a><a href="#FNanchor_135_135"><span class="label">[135]</span></a> See <i>Scotland in Early Christian Times</i>, by Joseph -Anderson, LL.D., p. 62.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_136_136" id="Footnote_136_136"></a><a href="#FNanchor_136_136"><span class="label">[136]</span></a> See <a href="#page_27">Introduction, p. 27</a>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_137_137" id="Footnote_137_137"></a><a href="#FNanchor_137_137"><span class="label">[137]</span></a> See <a href="#page_14">Introduction, p. 14</a>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_138_138" id="Footnote_138_138"></a><a href="#FNanchor_138_138"><span class="label">[138]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> <a href="#page_11">p. 11.</a></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_139_139" id="Footnote_139_139"></a><a href="#FNanchor_139_139"><span class="label">[139]</span></a> In an interesting paper by him in the <i>Archæologia -Scotica</i>, Vol. <small>V.</small>, Part 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_140_140" id="Footnote_140_140"></a><a href="#FNanchor_140_140"><span class="label">[140]</span></a> Figs. <a href="#fig_146">146</a> and <a href="#fig_147">147</a> are from sketches by Mr. T. S. -Robertson, architect, Dundee, whom we have to thank for assistance in -connection with this church.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_141_141" id="Footnote_141_141"></a><a href="#FNanchor_141_141"><span class="label">[141]</span></a> <i>Historical Manuscript Commission</i>, 14th Report, App., -Part <small>III.</small>, p. 175 and 187.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_142_142" id="Footnote_142_142"></a><a href="#FNanchor_142_142"><span class="label">[142]</span></a> <a href="#page_11">Page 11.</a></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_143_143" id="Footnote_143_143"></a><a href="#FNanchor_143_143"><span class="label">[143]</span></a> <i>Quarterly Review</i>, June 1849, p. 120.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_144_144" id="Footnote_144_144"></a><a href="#FNanchor_144_144"><span class="label">[144]</span></a> The lines on south side of tower show foundations now -exposed, and a built-up door in south wall of tower is not shown, being -apparently not original.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_145_145" id="Footnote_145_145"></a><a href="#FNanchor_145_145"><span class="label">[145]</span></a> Introduction, p. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_146_146" id="Footnote_146_146"></a><a href="#FNanchor_146_146"><span class="label">[146]</span></a> <i>Lecture II.</i>, p. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_147_147" id="Footnote_147_147"></a><a href="#FNanchor_147_147"><span class="label">[147]</span></a> <a href="#page_36">Page 36.</a></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_148_148" id="Footnote_148_148"></a><a href="#FNanchor_148_148"><span class="label">[148]</span></a> <a href="#page_38">Page 38.</a></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_149_149" id="Footnote_149_149"></a><a href="#FNanchor_149_149"><span class="label">[149]</span></a> From a drawing in the possession of Mr. David Douglas, -publisher.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_150_150" id="Footnote_150_150"></a><a href="#FNanchor_150_150"><span class="label">[150]</span></a> The sketch is a very slight and hurried one, and is not -at all finished in detail; but it is enough, when taken with the other -drawings, to enable a fair idea to be formed of the completed church. -The tower has had a clock dial, placed so as to conceal the south -windows. The traceried windows of the south aisle of the nave are -indicated, along with the lintelled doorway and a raised window, which -may have been over an outside stair in connection with a gallery. The -east window of the aisle is shown built up, with a square shuttered -window inserted where the mullions formerly were, and the small window -above has been enlarged for light to the gallery. The view of the -chancel is particularly interesting, this part of the church having now -almost disappeared. In the choir a mullioned window of three lights is -shown above the sedilia, and a small door is knocked through the latter. -The east end is shown lighted by three simple lancet windows.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_151_151" id="Footnote_151_151"></a><a href="#FNanchor_151_151"><span class="label">[151]</span></a> We are greatly indebted to the Rev. Mr. Thomson, Dunning, -for assistance in regard to this church.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_152_152" id="Footnote_152_152"></a><a href="#FNanchor_152_152"><span class="label">[152]</span></a> <i>Celtic Scotland</i>, Vol. II., pp. 389-92.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_153_153" id="Footnote_153_153"></a><a href="#FNanchor_153_153"><span class="label">[153]</span></a> <a href="#page_28">Page 28.</a></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_154_154" id="Footnote_154_154"></a><a href="#FNanchor_154_154"><span class="label">[154]</span></a> First Volume, p. 462.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_155_155" id="Footnote_155_155"></a><a href="#FNanchor_155_155"><span class="label">[155]</span></a> We have to thank Sir Henry Dryden for liberty to use the -measured drawings of St. Margaret’s Chapel, made by him in 1866.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_156_156" id="Footnote_156_156"></a><a href="#FNanchor_156_156"><span class="label">[156]</span></a> Introduction to <i>Registrum de Dunfermlyn</i>, p. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_157_157" id="Footnote_157_157"></a><a href="#FNanchor_157_157"><span class="label">[157]</span></a> Introduction to <i>Registrum de Dunfermlyn</i>, p. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_158_158" id="Footnote_158_158"></a><a href="#FNanchor_158_158"><span class="label">[158]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_159_159" id="Footnote_159_159"></a><a href="#FNanchor_159_159"><span class="label">[159]</span></a> <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. -<small>V.</small> p. 522.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_160_160" id="Footnote_160_160"></a><a href="#FNanchor_160_160"><span class="label">[160]</span></a> See <i>Annals of Dunfermline</i>, by the Rev. Ebenezer -Henderson, p. 211.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_161_161" id="Footnote_161_161"></a><a href="#FNanchor_161_161"><span class="label">[161]</span></a> <i>Annals of Dunfermline</i>, p. 205.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_162_162" id="Footnote_162_162"></a><a href="#FNanchor_162_162"><span class="label">[162]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> p. 342.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_163_163" id="Footnote_163_163"></a><a href="#FNanchor_163_163"><span class="label">[163]</span></a> We are indebted for the loan of this Plan, drawn by Mr. -Henderson, to Mr. Robertson, Dunfermline, custodier of the buildings.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_164_164" id="Footnote_164_164"></a><a href="#FNanchor_164_164"><span class="label">[164]</span></a> Tytler, <i>History of Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>I.</small>, year 1303-4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_165_165" id="Footnote_165_165"></a><a href="#FNanchor_165_165"><span class="label">[165]</span></a> <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, Vol. -<small>I.</small>, p. 514.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_166_166" id="Footnote_166_166"></a><a href="#FNanchor_166_166"><span class="label">[166]</span></a> We have to thank Sir Henry Dryden for permission to use -the ground plan and other drawings and descriptions relating to St. -Magnus, published in the transactions of the Architectural Institute of -Scotland, 1858-61.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_167_167" id="Footnote_167_167"></a><a href="#FNanchor_167_167"><span class="label">[167]</span></a> We have to express our indebtedness to the late Mr. -Robert Matheson, Architect, Edinburgh, for the foregoing sections and -elevation and the plan of the triforium, with which he was good enough -to supply us so long ago as 1866.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_168_168" id="Footnote_168_168"></a><a href="#FNanchor_168_168"><span class="label">[168]</span></a> See <i>Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland</i>, -Vol. <small>I.</small> p. 519.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_169_169" id="Footnote_169_169"></a><a href="#FNanchor_169_169"><span class="label">[169]</span></a> See the <i>Orkneyinga Saga</i>, Introduction by Dr. J. -Anderson.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_170_170" id="Footnote_170_170"></a><a href="#FNanchor_170_170"><span class="label">[170]</span></a> <i>Statistical Account.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_171_171" id="Footnote_171_171"></a><a href="#FNanchor_171_171"><span class="label">[171]</span></a> <i>Early Christian Symbolism</i>, p. 255.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_172_172" id="Footnote_172_172"></a><a href="#FNanchor_172_172"><span class="label">[172]</span></a> <i>Illustrations of the Shires of Aberdeen and Banff</i>, -<i>Spalding Club</i>, p. 692.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_173_173" id="Footnote_173_173"></a><a href="#FNanchor_173_173"><span class="label">[173]</span></a> The churches of Berwickshire have been very fully treated -by Mr. J. Ferguson, Duns, in a paper reprinted from the <i>Transactions of -the Berwickshire Naturalists’ Club</i>, 1890. We are much indebted to Mr. -Ferguson and Mr. George Fortune, architect, Duns, for assistance in -regard to these churches.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_174_174" id="Footnote_174_174"></a><a href="#FNanchor_174_174"><span class="label">[174]</span></a> <i>Characteristics</i>, p. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_175_175" id="Footnote_175_175"></a><a href="#FNanchor_175_175"><span class="label">[175]</span></a> This illustration is from a drawing by Mr. John Dickson, -solicitor, Banff, lent by Mr. Ferguson.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_176_176" id="Footnote_176_176"></a><a href="#FNanchor_176_176"><span class="label">[176]</span></a> Vol. <small>III.</small>, p. 298.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_177_177" id="Footnote_177_177"></a><a href="#FNanchor_177_177"><span class="label">[177]</span></a> <i>Caledonia</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 393.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_178_178" id="Footnote_178_178"></a><a href="#FNanchor_178_178"><span class="label">[178]</span></a> <i>Celtic Scotland</i>, Vol. <small>II.</small> p. 223.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_179_179" id="Footnote_179_179"></a><a href="#FNanchor_179_179"><span class="label">[179]</span></a> <i>Caledonia</i>, Vol. <small>I.</small>, p. 954.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_180_180" id="Footnote_180_180"></a><a href="#FNanchor_180_180"><span class="label">[180]</span></a> <i>Origines Parochiales</i>, Vol. <small>I.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_181_181" id="Footnote_181_181"></a><a href="#FNanchor_181_181"><span class="label">[181]</span></a> <i>Caledonia</i> (Linlithgowshire), p. 866, and <i>Transactions -of Antiquarian Society, Edinburgh</i>, First Vol. (1792), p. 150-5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_182_182" id="Footnote_182_182"></a><a href="#FNanchor_182_182"><span class="label">[182]</span></a> Morton’s <i>Annals of Teviotdale</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_183_183" id="Footnote_183_183"></a><a href="#FNanchor_183_183"><span class="label">[183]</span></a> <i>Robb’s Guide to Haddington</i>, p. 44.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_184_184" id="Footnote_184_184"></a><a href="#FNanchor_184_184"><span class="label">[184]</span></a> In connection with this church, we have to thank Mr. -James Reid, jun., Peterhead, for his ready assistance.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_185_185" id="Footnote_185_185"></a><a href="#FNanchor_185_185"><span class="label">[185]</span></a> <i>Transactions of the Buchan Field Club</i>, by James Aiken, -Peterhead. 1889.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_186_186" id="Footnote_186_186"></a><a href="#FNanchor_186_186"><span class="label">[186]</span></a> We are greatly indebted to Mr. George Gray, Town Clerk of -Rutherglen, for assistance in connection with the notice of this -church.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_187_187" id="Footnote_187_187"></a><a href="#FNanchor_187_187"><span class="label">[187]</span></a> <i>The Pre-Reformation Churches of Berwickshire</i>, pp. 7 and -38.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_188_188" id="Footnote_188_188"></a><a href="#FNanchor_188_188"><span class="label">[188]</span></a> To whom we are indebted for the Plan.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_189_189" id="Footnote_189_189"></a><a href="#FNanchor_189_189"><span class="label">[189]</span></a> <i>Caledonia</i>, Vol. <small>II</small>. p. 529.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_190_190" id="Footnote_190_190"></a><a href="#FNanchor_190_190"><span class="label">[190]</span></a> M‘Kerlic’s <i>Galloway</i>, Vol. <small>V</small>., p. 68.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_191_191" id="Footnote_191_191"></a><a href="#FNanchor_191_191"><span class="label">[191]</span></a> The particulars of the history of Kinloss Abbey are -extracted from the “Records of the Monastery,” by Dr. John Stewart.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_192_192" id="Footnote_192_192"></a><a href="#FNanchor_192_192"><span class="label">[192]</span></a> These are beautifully illustrated by the late James -Drummond, R.S.A., in his <i>West Highland Monuments</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_193_193" id="Footnote_193_193"></a><a href="#FNanchor_193_193"><span class="label">[193]</span></a> Extracts from the “Council Register of the Burgh of -Aberdeen” (Spalding Club, p. 94.)</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_194_194" id="Footnote_194_194"></a><a href="#FNanchor_194_194"><span class="label">[194]</span></a> There are scanty, but distinct, traces of two churches on -St. Abb’s Head, about three miles north from Coldingham. They are -situated about half a mile apart, one to the west of the promontory and -the other to the south-east, and both stand on high cliffs overlooking -the sea. -</p><p> -The one to the south-east, called St. Abb’s Chapel, (1) is situated in -the centre of a churchyard, all the remaining tombstones of which were -thrown into the sea during some law proceedings regarding the right of -access by the public to St. Abb’s Head. At the time Carr wrote his -<i>History of Coldingham Priory</i> (published 1836), the walls of the church -were standing to a height of some three or four feet; now only the -grass-covered foundations remain. These indicate a chancelled building, -the outside dimensions of which are:—length of chancel from east to -west about 21 feet, width -</p> -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/ill_fnt-194.png" width="450" height="101" alt="" title="" /> -</div> -<p class="nind"> -about 24 feet; length of nave 56 feet by 30 feet in width. The chancel -is full of rubbish, especially at the place where the arch is usually -situated; but it is not unlikely that by digging here some remains might -be found sufficient to indicate the style and period of the building. -From Carr’s description it appears to have been a Norman building, as he -speaks of a “small Saxon arch” (the term frequently used by writers -about the beginning of the century for a Norman arch) as visible in his -time (p. 243). -</p><p> -The other chapel at St. Abb’s Head (2) is in very much the same state as -the one just described, except that more of the masonry is visible. It -measures, on the inside, about 69 feet long by 22 feet wide, with walls -about 4 feet thick. In the centre of the west wall there is a recess, -about 6 feet long by 2 feet 6 inches wide; and at the north-east corner -there is a notch about 9 feet square, cut out of the chapel, as it were, -forming, to all appearance, a chancel, narrower than the nave on one -side instead of in the centre. The remains are very scanty.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_195_195" id="Footnote_195_195"></a><a href="#FNanchor_195_195"><span class="label">[195]</span></a> <i>Caledonia.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_196_196" id="Footnote_196_196"></a><a href="#FNanchor_196_196"><span class="label">[196]</span></a> Morton’s <i>Monastic Annals of Teviotdale</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_197_197" id="Footnote_197_197"></a><a href="#FNanchor_197_197"><span class="label">[197]</span></a> We are indebted to Mr. Robert B. Armstrong, F.S.A., for -the use of drawings, and to Major W. Bruce Armstrong for some -interesting notes.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_198_198" id="Footnote_198_198"></a><a href="#FNanchor_198_198"><span class="label">[198]</span></a> Original birth brief in the possession of the Comte de -Bruce from Charles <small>I.</small>, dated 13th July 1633, to Adam Bruce, younger son -of Anthony Bruce of Waltoun, ancestor of the Comte de Bruce, deducing -his descent, through the families of Bruce of Waltoun, -Lethbertschielles, and Airth, from the house of Clackmannan, in which it -is stated that Alexander Bruce of Airth was legitimate son of Sir Robert -Bruce of Clackmannan.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_199_199" id="Footnote_199_199"></a><a href="#FNanchor_199_199"><span class="label">[199]</span></a> <i>Collegiate Churches of Mid-Lothian</i>, by D. Laing, p. -cxx.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_200_200" id="Footnote_200_200"></a><a href="#FNanchor_200_200"><span class="label">[200]</span></a> Chart, Newbotle, 159. <i>Caledonia</i>, Vol. ii., p. 888.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_201_201" id="Footnote_201_201"></a><a href="#FNanchor_201_201"><span class="label">[201]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i></p></div> -</div></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/back.jpg" height="550" alt="[Image of the back cover -is unavailable.]" /></div> - -<hr class="full" /> -<pre style='margin-top:6em'> -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF -SCOTLAND FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY; VOL. -1/3 *** - -This file should be named 63940-h.htm or 63940-h.zip - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/9/4/63940/ - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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