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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3bf5457 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #63227 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/63227) diff --git a/old/63227-8.txt b/old/63227-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 2275f42..0000000 --- a/old/63227-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1125 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: Flytraps -and Their Operation (1930), by F. C. Bishopp - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: Flytraps and Their Operation (1930) - -Author: F. C. Bishopp - -Release Date: September 18, 2020 [EBook #63227] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA FARMERS' BULLETIN NO. *** - - - - -Produced by Tom Cosmas from files generously made available -by USDA through The Internet Archive. All resultant -materials are placed in the Public Domain. - - - - - - - - - - - -Transcriber Note - -Text emphasis denoted as _Italics_ and =Bold=. Whole and fractional parts -of numbers as 123-4/5. - - - U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE - FARMERS' BULLETIN No. 734 - - FLYTRAPS AND THEIR OPERATION - - -[DC] BOTH THE HOUSE FLY AND BLOWFLIES may be captured in traps. The -character of the bait used and the location of the traps greatly influence -the kind of flies caught. This bulletin tells how to make the flytraps -that have been found most effective, where to put them, and how to bait -and care for them. - -Flytrapping, of course, affords only partial relief. The logical method -of fly control is to prevent the multiplication of these pests by proper -disposal of or treatment of their breeding places. The reader is therefore -referred to Farmers' Bulletin 1408 for further information on house-fly -control, to Farmers' Bulletin 1097 for various methods of combating the -stable fly, and to Farmers' Bulletin 857 for additional measures to be -used against the screw-worm fly and certain other blowflies injurious to -livestock. - - Issued June 10, 1916 - Washington, D. C. Revised March, 1930 - - ADDITIONAL COPIES - OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE PROCURED FROM - THE SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS - U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE - WASHINGTON, D. C. - AT - 5 CENTS PER COPY - - - - - =FLYTRAPS AND THEIR OPERATION= - - - By F. C. Bishopp, - _Principal Entomologist in Charge, - Division of Insects Affecting - Man and Animals, Bureau of Entomology_ - - - - -=CONTENTS= - - - Page - - Uses and limitations of flytraps 1 - - Kinds of flies caught 1 - - Types of traps 2 - - Trapping the screw-worm fly 11 - - Baits for traps 11 - - Bait containers 13 - - Care and location of traps 14 - - Sticky fly papers 14 - - - - -=USES AND LIMITATIONS OF FLYTRAPS= - - -[DC] FLYTRAPS have a distinct place in the control of the house fly -and other noxious fly species. There is a general tendency, however, -for those engaged in combating flies to put too much dependence on the -flytrap as a method of abating the nuisance. It should be borne in mind -that flytrapping is only supplementary to other methods of control, most -notable of which is the prevention of breeding either by completely -disposing of breeding places or by treating the breeding material with -chemicals. - -It may be said that there are two main ways in which flytraps are -valuable: (1) By catching flies which come to clean premises from -other places which are insanitary and (2) by capturing those flies -which invariably escape in greater or less numbers the other means of -destruction which may be practiced. Furthermore, the number of flies -caught in traps serves as an index of the effectiveness of campaigns -against breeding places. - -_Flytrapping should begin early in the spring if it is to be of greatest -value._ Although comparatively few flies are caught in the early spring, -their destruction means the prevention of the development of myriads of -flies by midsummer. - - - - -=KINDS OF FLIES CAUGHT= - - -The various species of flies which are commonly annoying about habitations -or where foodstuffs are being prepared may be divided roughly into two -classes: (1) Those which breed in animal matter, consisting mainly of the -so called blowflies, including the screw-worm fly;[1] and (2) those which -breed in vegetable as well as in animal matter. In the latter group the -house fly[2] is by far the most important. The stable fly is strictly a -vegetable breeder, as are also certain other species which occasionally -come into houses and in rare cases may contaminate foodstuffs. The stable -fly,[3] which breeds in horse manure or decaying vegetable matter, and -the horn fly,[4] which breeds in cow manure, are blood-sucking species, -and can be caught in ordinary flytraps in comparatively small numbers -only. The kind of flies caught depends to a considerable extent on the -material used for bait. In general, the house fly and other species which -breed in vegetable matter are attracted to vegetable substances, while the -blowflies will come most readily to animal matter. This rule, of course, -is not absolute, as flies are less restricted in feeding than in breeding -habits, and, as is well known, the house fly is attracted to a greater or -less extent to any moist material, especially if it has an odor. - -[1] _Cochliomyia macellaria_ Fab. - -[2] _Musca domestica_ L. - -[3] _Stomoxys calcitrans_ L. - -[4] _Haematobia irritans_ L. - - - - -=TYPES OF TRAPS= - - -The same general principle is involved in nearly all flytraps in use, -though superficially they may appear quite different. The flies are -attracted into a cage, as it were, by going through a passage the entrance -of which is large and the exit small, so that there is little chance -of the flies, once in, finding their way out again. This principle is -modified to fit different conditions. For instance, the window trap, -devised by C. F. Hodge, catches the flies as they endeavor to enter or -leave a building; the garbage-can trap, for which Professor Hodge is also -to be credited, catches the flies that have entered garbage cans; and the -manure-box trap retains the flies bred from infested manure put into the -box or pit. - -The attractant used to induce flies to enter traps may consist of (1) -food, as in baited traps; (2) odors, as in window traps placed in windows -from which odors are emitted; and (3) light, as in traps on manure boxes. -Of course, light is an important factor in the success of all traps, for, -as is well known, flies have a marked tendency to go toward the light, and -they usually enter the trap by flying toward the light after having been -attracted beneath it by bait or after entering a room in search of food. - - -=CONICAL TRAPS= - -A number of traps of this general type are on the market, but most of -these are of small size. Nearly all are constructed with a dome instead of -a cone, and on this account the catching power is reduced about one-third. -Moreover, the farmer, dairyman, or anyone with a few tools can construct -traps at a small fraction of the sale price of ready-made ones. - -There are now being made by certain firms in the Southwest traps of the -dimensions and with the desirable features discussed in the following -pages. These traps are all metal and some are built so that they can be -taken apart for shipment. - - -=THE CONICAL HOOP TRAP= - -A trap which appears from extensive tests made by E. W. Laake and the -writer to be best for effective trapping, durability, ease of construction -and repair, and cheapness may be made as follows: - -The trap consists essentially of a screen cylinder with a frame made of -barrel hoops, in the bottom of which is inserted a screen cone. The height -or the cylinder is 24 inches, the diameter 18 inches, and the cone is 22 -inches high, and 18 inches in diameter at the base. Material necessary -for this trap consists of four new or secondhand wooden barrel hoops, one -barrel head, four laths, 10 feet of strips 1 to inches wide 1½ one-half -inch thick (portions of old boxes will suffice), 61 linear inches of 12 or -14 mesh galvanized screening 24 inches wide for the sides of the trap and -41 inches of screening 26 inches wide for the cone and door, an ounce of -carpet tacks, and two turn-buttons, which may be made of wood. The total -cost of the material for this trap, if all is bought new at retail prices -is about $1. In practically all cases, however, the barrel hoops, barrel -head, lath, and strips can be obtained without expense. This would reduce -the cost to that of the wire and tacks, which would be about 80 cents. -If a larger number of traps are constructed at one time, the cost is -considerably reduced. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Conical hoop flytrap, side view. A, hoops forming -frame at bottom; B, hoops forming frame at top; C, top of trap made of -barrel head; D, strips around door; E, door frame; F, screen on door; G, -buttons holding door; H, screen on outside of trap; I, strips on side of -trap between hoops; J, tips of these strips projecting to form legs; K, -cone; L, united edges of screen forming cone; M, aperture at apex of cone] - -One of these traps is illustrated in Figures 1 and 2. In constructing the -trap two of the hoops are bent in a circle (18 inches in diameter on the -inside), and nailed together, the ends being trimmed to give a close fit. -These form the bottom of the frame (A), and the other two, prepared in a -similar way, the top (B). The top (C) of the trap is made of an ordinary -barrel head with the bevel edge sawed off sufficiently to cause the head -to fit closely in the hoops and allow secure nailing. A square, 10 inches -on the side, is cut out of the center of the top to form a door. The -portions of the top (barrel head) are held together by inch strips (D) -placed around the opening one-half inch from the edge to form a jamb for -the door. The door consists of a narrow frame (E) covered with screen (F) -well fitted to the trap and held in place (not hinged) by buttons (G). -The top is then nailed in the upper hoops and the sides (H) formed by -closely tacking screen wire on the outside of the hoops. Four laths (I) -(or light strips) are nailed to the hoops on the outside of the trap to -act as supports between the hoops, and the ends are allowed to project 1 -inch at the bottom to form legs (J). The legs are made to project inches -when the traps are to be used with bait pans 4 inches deep in trapping -screw-worm flies. The cone (K) is cut from the screen and either sewed -with fine wire or soldered where the edges meet at (L), or a narrow lath -may be nailed along these edges. The apex of the cone is then cut off to -give an aperture (M) 1 inch in diameter. It is then inserted in the trap -and closely tacked to the hoop around the base. - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Conical hoop flytrap, top view. Letters designate -parts as in Figure 1] - -The construction of a cone of any given height or diameter is quite simple -if the following method be observed. It is best to cut a pattern from a -large piece of heavy paper, cardboard, or tin. Figure 3 illustrates the -method of laying out a cone of the proper dimensions for the above trap. -An ordinary square is placed on the material from which the pattern is to -be cut; a distance (22 inches) equal to the height of the cone is laid off -on one leg of the square at A, and a distance (9 inches) equal to one-half -of the diameter of the base of the cone is laid off on the other leg at B, -and a line is drawn between the points A and B. With the distance between -these points as a radius and with the point A as a center, the portion of -a circle, CD, is drawn. With a pair of dividers, the legs of which are set -1 inch apart, or with the square, lay off as many inches on the arc CD, -starting at C, as there are inches around the base of the cone, which in -this case is about 56½ inches, reaching nearly to the point E. Then add -one-half inch for the lapping of the edges of the cone, and one-half inch -which is taken up when the cone is tacked in, thus making a total distance -from C to E of 57½ inches. Draw a line from A to C and another from A to -E, and cut out the pattern on these lines and on the arc from C to E, as -shown in Figure 3. The edges AC and AE are then brought together, lapped -one-half inch, and sewed with wire or soldered. After the aperture of the -cone is formed by cutting off the apex, as previously described, it is -ready for insertion in the trap. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Method of laying out a pattern for the -construction of a cone. Cut out on curved line from C to E and on dotted -lines from A to C and A to B] - -In order to figure the distance around the base of a cone of any given -diameter, multiply the diameter by 3.1416 or 3-1/7. - -The height of the legs of the trap, the height of the cone, and the size -of the aperture in the top of the cone, each is of importance in securing -the greatest efficiency. - - -=OTHER FORMS OF CONICAL TRAPS= - -A modification of the previously described trap has been made by D. C. -Parman of the Bureau of Entomology. The principal point of advantage in -this type is that it can be made more quickly and with fewer tools. The -principles and dimensions are the same, the most striking difference being -the absence of a wooden top. A single hoop with the thick edge down forms -the upper frame of the cylinder and the entire top is made of screen. A -circular piece of screen with a diameter about 3 inches greater than the -diameter of the cylinder is cut; a hoop with a diameter equal to the -inside of the top of the trap is then made of heavy wire and laid upon the -disk of screen and the edges of the screen bent in over it. By folding in -and crimping the edges of the wire over the wire hoop it will remain in -position without difficulty and the edges of the screen disk are used to -lift the top of the trap out for emptying flies. It is important to have -the screen top fit the inside of the cylinder very snugly at all points. -If there is any space left where flies can escape it is a good plan to -bind the edge of the top with a strip of burlap. This not only helps -to close the openings but keeps the hoop in place and aids in removing -the top. Another difference is that the screen forming the sides of the -cylinder is placed on the inside of the hoops and legs, the frame being -built first and then the cylinder formed by tacking the wire on the inside -of the hoops and nailing in along the upright strips and against the wire -short pieces of laths with their upper ends against the lower edge of the -hoop forming the top of the trap and extending downward along the legs -about two-thirds of their length. These strips hold the wire in place and -give rigidity to the trap, and they are thick enough to project beyond the -inner surface of the hoop and form a support upon which the edges of the -screen top rest. - -Conical traps with galvanized-iron frames are satisfactory, but they -are less easily rescreened. These, of course, can be constructed only -by shops with considerable equipment. Traps constructed with a wooden -disk about the base of the cone, and a similar disk around the top to -serve as a frame, or those with a square wooden frame at the bottom and -top, with strips up the corners, are fairly satisfactory. It should be -borne in mind, however, that the factor which determines the number of -flies caught is the diameter of the base of the cone, if other things are -equal. Therefore, the space taken up by the wooden framework is largely -wasted, and if it is too wide it will have a deterrent effect on the flies -which come toward the bait. For this reason it is advisable that the -wood around the base of the cone should be as narrow as consistent with -strength--usually about 3 inches. - -Under no condition should the sides or top of the trap be of solid -material, as the elimination of light from the top or sides has been found -to decrease the catch from 50 to 75 per cent. - - -=ALL-METAL FLYTRAP= - -Where large numbers of traps are to be constructed, and especially if -they are to be used for trapping screw-worm flies on the range, it is -desirable to make them with metal rather than wooden frames. Traps with -galvanized-iron frames are now being used extensively on ranches in -central and western Texas in combating the screw-worm fly. Mechanics -may wish to vary details of construction from those given in the -specifications, but the dimensions and general features of the trap should -not be altered. The cost of the metal-framed traps varies from about $3.50 -to $5 each according to the number ordered, the workmanship, and the kind -of materials used. For the guidance of those who desire such traps the -following directions, together with a working drawing (fig. 4), are given: - - -=SPECIFICATIONS= - - _Dimensions_--As per working drawing. - - _Wire_--14-mesh galvanized or preferably copper screen wire. - - _Cylinder_--Wire gauze, to be soldered completely around inside of - top ring and at intervals of 2 inches or less in groove of bottom - ring. Vertical seam to be soldered entire and placed behind one leg. - Where shipment of traps is not contemplated the diameter of the top - of the cylinder may be the same as that of the bottom. - - _Top_--Wire gauze to be soldered completely around periphery on - inside of top ring. - - _Cone_--Wire gauze to be soldered completely around inside of cone - ring and vertically along seam. A 1-inch inlet hole shall be formed - at apex of cone. - - _Frame_--To be made of 24-gauge galvanized iron. This includes top - and bottom rings and legs. - - _Legs_--Galvanized-iron channels made as per detailed drawing and - secured to top and bottom rings with four rivets, 1/8 inch in - diameter, to each leg. First turned and drilled as per drawing. - - _Bottom cylinder ring_--=J= shaped, with bottom edge of cylinder - dropped into J--crimped and soldered to secure. Ends of ring riveted - to secure. - - _Cone ring_--Galvanized-iron band with 3/16-inch round iron wire - rolled into lower edge, as per cross-section drawing of "cone ring." - - _Wing nuts_--Four copper wing bolts and nuts, as per drawing, to hold - cone securely in place. - - -=MANURE-BOX TRAPS= - -Manure pits or boxes are desirable for the temporary storage of manure, -especially in towns and cities. These have been widely advocated, but the -difficulty has been that manure often becomes infested before it is put -into them, and flies frequently breed out before the boxes are emptied and -often escape through the cracks. To obviate these difficulties a manure -box or pit, with a modified tent trap or cone trap attached, is desirable. -Arthur Swaim, of Florida, has devised a form of manure trap consisting of -a series of screen tents with exit holes along the ridges of these, over -which is a screen box. The latter retains the flies as they pass through -the holes in the tents. The entire trap is removable. - -In order to retain the fertilizing value of manure to the greatest extent, -it is advisable to exclude the air from it as much as possible and to -protect it from the leaching action of rains. This being the case, there -is really no necessity to cover a large portion of the top of the box -with a trap, but merely to have holes large enough to attract flies to -the light and cover these holes with ordinary conical traps with the legs -cut off so the bottom of the trap will fit closely to the box. The same -arrangement can be made where manure is kept in a pit. In large bins two -or more holes covered with traps should be provided for the escape of the -flies. - -Manure boxes should be used by all stock owners in towns and cities, and -they are also adaptable to farms. The size of the manure bin should be -governed by the individual needs, but for use on the farm it is desirable -to make it large enough to hold all of the manure produced during the -busiest season of the year. A box 14 feet long, 10 feet wide, and 4 feet -deep will hold the manure produced by two horses during about five months. -About 2 cubic feet of box space should be allowed for each horse per day. -The bin should be made of concrete or heavy plank. When the latter is used -the cracks should be battened to prevent the escape of flies. The bin -should have a concrete floor or it may be set in the ground several inches -and the dirt closely banked around the outside. For the admission of the -manure a good-sized door should be provided in either end of a large bin. -A portion of the top should be made easily removable for convenience in -emptying the box, or one entire end of the box may be hinged. On account -of the danger of the door being left open through carelessness it is -advisable to arrange a lift door which can be opened by placing the foot -on a treadle as the manure is shoveled in. The door should be heavy enough -to close automatically when the treadle is released. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Working drawings of all-metal flytrap. The cones -are removable and traps and cones can be telescoped for shipment. The trap -may be made 18 inches in diameter at the top as well as at the bottom if -traps are not to be shipped] - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.--Use of flytrap in connection with manure bin. A, -block of wood set in ground to which lever raising door is hinged] - -A concrete pit set on a slope so that the manure may be dumped in from a -wheelbarrow is convenient for dairy farms. For large stock farms it may be -desirable to have a concrete pit so constructed as to permit of the manure -being taken directly into it with a litter carrier and doors provided -which are large enough to admit a wagon or manure spreader for the removal -of the material. - -A manure bin with flytrap attached is shown in Figure 5. - -Attention is directed to a maggot trap devised by R. H. Hutchison, as -described in Farmers' Bulletin 851 of the Department of Agriculture. Where -large quantities of manure are produced on a farm, this method of storing -the manure on a platform and trapping the maggots which breed out may be -more convenient than the manure bin. - - -=WINDOW TRAPS= - -C. F. Hodge has designed a trap which is really a modified tent trap -adapted to use in a window. This trap is constructed so as to catch the -flies as they enter or leave through the window. It is adaptable to -barns which are fairly free from cracks or other places where flies may -enter. It may also be used on windows of buildings where foodstuffs are -prepared and where flies endeavor to enter through the windows or escape -after having gained entrance through other passageways. All openings not -provided with traps should be closely screened, and on large buildings -traps may be installed in every third window. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.--Hodge type window trap. At left, trap with end -removed to show construction; at right, cross section of trap placed in a -window. A, end of trap; B, upper side of folds in screen; C, lower side of -folds in screen; D, portion of end of trap sawed out and returned after -attaching screen; E, holes along apex of folds; F, door for removing dead -flies; G, window sill; H, upper window sash; I, inside entrance for flies; -O, outside entrances] - -This trap is essentially a screen box closely fitted to the frame of a -window. (See fig. 6.) The thickness of the box at A should be about 12 -inches. Instead of the screen running straight down over the box on either -side, it is folded inward nearly to the center of the frame in =V=-shaped -folds running longitudinally across the window. One, two, or even more -folds may be made in the screen on either side. The upper side of the fold -B should extend toward the center almost at right angles with the side of -the trap; that is, parallel with the top and bottom; and the lower side C -should slant downward as shown in the drawing. The sides of the frame may -be cut out at the proper angle and the pieces D returned after the screen -has been tacked along the edges. Along the apex (inner edge) of each fold -is punched a series of holes E about one-half inch in diameter and 1 -inch apart. The apices of the folds on either side of the window should -not be directly opposite. A narrow door F opening downward on hinges -should be made on one side of the trap at the bottom for removal of the -dead flies. The entire trap is fastened to the window by hooks so that it -may be readily taken off. An additional trapping feature may be added by -providing a tent trap fitted in the bottom of the box. A narrow slit is -left along the base to allow the flies to enter beneath the tent. Bait may -be placed under the tent to attract the flies. - -It has been found that the use of these window traps will aid in -protecting animals in barns from stable flies and mosquitoes, and in -some cases horseflies and other noxious species are caught. They tend to -exclude the light, however, and are somewhat cumbersome, especially in -thin-walled buildings. - - - - -=TRAPPING THE SCREW-WORM FLY=[5] - -[5] _Cochliomyia macellaria_ Fab. - - -Recent efforts to reduce the loss to the livestock industry of the -Southwest resulting from the ravages of the screw-worm have directed -attention to the employment of flytraps in this work. - -Mention has been made of the importance of preventing the breeding of -flies as a prerequisite to effective control. This is equally true of the -screw-worm and other blowflies, which attack animals, and of the house -fly. In the case of these blowflies main dependence must be placed on the -complete and prompt burning of all carcasses and animal refuse. - -Experiments conducted in the range sections of Texas indicate that traps -properly baited and set are of material aid in preventing screw-worm -injury to livestock. If general trapping is undertaken, at least three -or four traps should be maintained on each section of land. These should -be located preferably near watering places and where cattle congregate, -especially in the so-called hospital pastures or traps, where the -screw-worm-infested animals are kept for treatment. - -The conical-type traps as described are advised. The traps should be set -in broken shade on a board platform about 2 feet square, securely fastened -to a tree or on a post where the trap and bait will be the least disturbed -by stock or wild animals. - -During the latter half of one season over 100 gallons of flies, the vast -majority of which were screw-worm flies, were captured in about 25 traps -operated on a ranch in west Texas. - -The question of the baits best adapted for this species and other points -in regard to the operation of the traps are briefly discussed under -subsequent headings. - - - - -=BAITS FOR TRAPS= - - -The problem of selecting the best bait for flies is an important one. -In choosing a bait it should be remembered that it is largely the -fermentation which renders the material attractive, and that baits are -most attractive during their most active period of fermentation. As has -been indicated, the kind of bait used should be governed by the species of -flies the destruction of which is desired. This is most often the house -fly. - -A mixture of 1 part of a cheap cane molasses (blackstrap or New Orleans) -and 3 parts of water is one of the most economical and effective baits -for the house fly. Sugar-beet or stock molasses, which is very cheap in -regions where produced, when mixed in the foregoing proportions is fairly -attractive. Sirup made by dissolving 1 part of ordinary brown sugar in 4 -parts of water and allowing the mixture to stand a day or two to induce -fermentation is almost equal to molasses and water as a fly bait. If it is -desired to use the sirup immediately after making it, a small quantity of -vinegar should be added. Honeybees are sometimes caught in large numbers -with this bait. When this happens some of the other baits recommended -should be used. - -On dairy farms probably milk is next choice as a bait to cane-molasses -solution, considering its convenience. The addition of ripe bananas or -other fruit increases the attractiveness of the milk bait. The curd -from milk, with one-half pound of brown sugar added for each pound, and -water to make it thoroughly moist, is a very good bait and continues to -be attractive for 10 days or longer if Kept moist. A mash consisting -of one-half pound of bran, 1 quart of milk, 1 quart of water, 2 -tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and a yeast cake makes an attractive and -lasting bait. - -The foregoing baits are rendered more attractive by stirring occasionally. - - -=BLOWFLY BAITS FOR USE AROUND MARKETS, ETC.= - -With the baits before mentioned few blowflies will be caught. For use -about slaughterhouses, butcher shops, and other places where blowflies -are troublesome it has been determined that the mucous membranes which -form the lining of the intestines of cattle or hogs are without equal as -a bait. This material, which is commonly spoken of as "gut slime," can -be obtained from packing houses where sausage casings are prepared. The -offensive odor of this bait renders its use undesirable around habitations -or materials intended for human consumption. - -At the front of and at loading docks of meat-packing establishments, where -house flies are troublesome and blowflies are usually not abundant, it -is best to bait the traps with one of the house-fly baits listed above. -Around meat markets, where both house flies and blowflies abound, one of -the combination baits given on page 13 should be employed. - - -=BAITS FOR SCREW-WORMS AND BLOWFLIES UNDER RANGE CONDITIONS= - -Where rabbits or other wild animals are plentiful they make a very -satisfactory bait for use on the ranges; in fact, they are rather better -than any other available bait. The animal should be opened up so as to -expose the intestines; and when the weather is very dry it is best to -keep some water in the pan, as it adds to the attractiveness of the bait. -Entrails and other animal refuse may be utilized in a similar way when -they are available. In large trapping operations goats or sheep culled -from the flock are cut up for bait, from 1 to 2 pounds of meat being used -in each bait pan. - -The main objection to the use of these meat baits is that some maggots are -likely to complete their growth and escape from the bait pans. This can be -largely avoided by adding nicotine sulphate to the water in the bait pan -in the proportion of one teaspoonful to each gallon of water. This does -not check the decomposition enough to reduce the attractiveness of the -bait and practically prohibits the escape of any maggots. - -As a substitute for wild animals or animal refuse when they are not -available, experiments show that fairly satisfactory catches can be -secured by utilizing dried "gut slime" or dried whole egg. The former -is not generally on the market but can be prepared by packing houses at -a moderate cost. Both of these materials are easily carried on a saddle -horse, and all that is necessary is to place about one-fourth pound in -the bait pan and add 1 gallon of water, after which the mixture should be -stirred. The more frequently any of these baits is agitated, the greater -the catch which will be secured. If the bait is kept well moistened it -will continue attractive for 10 days or longer. These baits should be -kept alkaline by the addition, once or twice a week, of a teaspoonful of -washing or baking soda. - - -=COMBINATION BAITS= - -With a number of the baits before mentioned both house flies and blowflies -are captured. This is especially true with the "gut slime" and dried egg. -Where both of these kinds of flies are abundant such baits are desirable. -Certain other mixtures may also be utilized. A packing-house product known -as blood tankage is a good fly bait when used before drying and with -molasses and water. Fish scraps or meat scraps, especially with molasses -and water added, will attract all kinds of flies. Overripe or fermenting -fruit such as watermelon rinds or crushed bananas often gives very -satisfactory results. A combination of overripe bananas with milk is much -more attractive than either one used separately. - - - - -=BAIT CONTAINERS= - - -The size of the bait container in relation to the size of the trap is -a very important consideration. It has been found that a small pan or -a deep pan of bait set in the center under a trap will catch only a -small fraction of the number of flies secured by using larger shallow -containers. The best and most convenient pan for baits is a shallow -circular tin, such as the cover of a lard bucket. Under range conditions -it is advisable to use a more substantial bait pan and preferably one -4 inches deep, so that a greater quantity of bait may be used, thus -preventing complete drying out between visits to the trap. Its diameter -should be about 4 inches less than that of the base of the trap, thus -bringing the edge within 2 inches of the outside edge of the trap. For -liquid baits the catch can be increased slightly by placing a piece of -sponge or a few chips in the center of the bait pan to provide additional -surface upon which the flies may alight. - - - - -=CARE AND LOCATION OF TRAPS= - - -In many cases flytrapping has been rendered ineffectual by the fact -that the traps were not properly placed or cared for. In setting traps -a location should be chosen where flies naturally congregate. This is -usually on the sunny side of a building out of the wind. In hot weather, -however, traps should be placed so as to be in shade during midday. It is -exceedingly important that the bait containers be kept well filled. This -usually requires attention every other day. The bait pans should be washed -out at rather frequent intervals. This gives a larger catch and avoids the -danger of flies breeding in the material used for bait. Further, it should -be borne in mind that traps can not be operated successfully throughout -the season without emptying them. Where flies are abundant and the bait -pans are properly attended to the traps should be emptied at weekly -intervals. Where flies become piled high against the side of the cone, the -catching power of the trap is considerably reduced. The destruction of the -flies is best accomplished by immersing the trap in hot water or, still -better, where a tight barrel is at hand place a few live coals in a pan -on the ground, scatter two tablespoonfuls of sulphur over them, place the -trap over the coals, and turn the barrel over the trap. All of the flies -will be rendered motionless in about five minutes. They may then be killed -by using hot water, throwing them into a fire, or burying them. In the -operation of flytraps in controlling the screw-worm it has not been found -necessary, especially during hot weather, to kill the flies, as they die -very rapidly within the traps. In order to empty a trap it may be inverted -and the dead flies shaken down. As the living flies will naturally go -upward, the door may then be removed and the dead flies shaken out, the -door replaced, and the trap set upright without loss of many of the living -flies. The location of traps used against the screw-worm fly is briefly -discussed on page 11. - - - - -=STICKY FLY PAPERS= - - -Sticky fly papers are of some value in destroying flies which have -gained access to houses, but they have marked limitations and numerous -objectionable features. For use out of doors traps are much more effective -and economical. - -Doctor Crumbine, of the Kansas State Board of Health, gives the following -method for preparing fly paper: - -"Take 2 pounds of rosin and 1 pint of castor oil; heat together until it -looks like molasses. Take an ordinary paintbrush and smear while hot on -any kind of paper--an old newspaper is good--and place several about the -room. A dozen of these may be made at a cost of 1 cent." - - - - - * * * * * - - -=Transcriber Note= - -Minor typos have been corrected. Illustrations were moved to prevent -splitting paragraphs. Produced from files generously made available by -USDA through The Internet Archive. All resultant materials are placed in -the Public Domain. - - - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: -Flytraps and Their Operation (1930), by F. C. 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C. Bishopp, a Project Gutenberg eBook. - </title> - <link rel="cover" href="images/cover_epub.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} - -p {margin-top: .75em; text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .75em; text-indent: 1.5em;} - -hr {width: 33%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; clear: both;} - -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-top: 2em;} -hr.tb {width: 45%;} - -table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; border-collapse: collapse;} -.tblcont tr:hover {background-color: #f5f5f5;} - -.pagenum {position: absolute; right: 3.5%; font-style: normal; /* prevent italics, etc. */ - font-size: small; text-align: right; color: #808080;} /* page numbers */ -.bdt {border-top: solid #000 1px;} -.bbox {border: solid #000 1px;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} -.smaller {font-size: 0.8em;} -.tdl {text-align: left;} -.tdc {text-align: center; margin:0; text-indent: 0;} -.tdr {text-align: right;} -.p0 {text-indent: 0;} -h1, h2, h3, .caption3 {font-weight: bold; text-align: center; text-indent:0;} -h1 {font-size:2.00em; margin-top: 1.5em;} -h2 {font-size:1.50em; margin-top: 1.0em;} -h3, .caption3 {font-size:1.25em; margin-top: 0.5em;} -.caption3nb {font-size:1.25em; text-align: center; text-indent:0; margin-top: 1.0em;} - -/* Images */ - -.fig_center {margin: auto; text-align: center;} - -.fig_right {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em; - margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} - -.fig_caption {font-size: 0.8em; margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em; text-align: justify;} - -.blockquot p {margin: 0 2em; font-size: 0.8em;} -.dropcap {float: left; padding-right: 0.25em; font-size: 2.5em;} -.hidden {display: none;} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnotes {background-color: #e6e6fa; color: black; padding:1.5em; - margin-bottom:5em;} - -/* Footnotes */ -.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} -.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} -.fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} - -sub {font-size: .6em;} -sup {font-size: .6em;} - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: Flytraps -and Their Operation (1930), by F. C. Bishopp - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: Flytraps and Their Operation (1930) - -Author: F. C. Bishopp - -Release Date: September 18, 2020 [EBook #63227] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA FARMERS' BULLETIN NO. *** - - - - -Produced by Tom Cosmas from files generously made available -by USDA through The Internet Archive. All resultant -materials are placed in the Public Domain. - - - - - - -</pre> - - - - - - -<div class="fig_center bbox" style="width: 266px;"> -<img src="images/cover.png" width="266" height="445" alt="" /> -</div> - - -<div class="bbox tdc smaller" style="width: 18em; margin: 1.5em auto;"> -U. S. DEPARTMENT OF<br />AGRICULTURE<br /> -FARMERS' BULLETIN No. 734<br /> -<br /> -FLYTRAPS<br />AND<br />THEIR OPERATION -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[ i ]</a></span></p> - -<div class="bbox" style="width: 30em; padding: 1em 2em; margin: 1.5em auto;" > - -<div class="dropcap">B</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">B</span>OTH THE HOUSE FLY AND BLOWFLIES may -be captured in traps. The character of the -bait used and the location of the traps greatly influence -the kind of flies caught. This bulletin tells how -to make the flytraps that have been found most -effective, where to put them, and how to bait and -care for them.</p> - -<p>Flytrapping, of course, affords only partial relief. -The logical method of fly control is to prevent the -multiplication of these pests by proper disposal of -or treatment of their breeding places. The reader -is therefore referred to Farmers' Bulletin 1408 for -further information on house-fly control, to Farmers' -Bulletin 1097 for various methods of combating the -stable fly, and to Farmers' Bulletin 857 for additional -measures to be used against the screw-worm fly and -certain other blowflies injurious to livestock.</p> - -<table style="width: 100%;" summary="info"> -<tr> - <td class="bdt tdl smaller">Washington, D. C.</td> - <td class="bdt tdr smaller">Issued June 10, 1916<br />Revised March, 1930</td> -</tr> -</table> -</div> - -<div style="width: 65%; margin: 1em auto 4em auto;"> -<div class="tdc smaller">ADDITIONAL COPIES<br /> -OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE PROCURED FROM<br /> -THE SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS<br /> -U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE<br /> -WASHINGTON, D. C.<br /> -AT<br /> -5 CENTS PER COPY -</div> -</div> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[ 1 ]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h1><a name="FLYTRAPS_AND_THEIR_OPERATION" id="FLYTRAPS_AND_THEIR_OPERATION">FLYTRAPS AND THEIR OPERATION</a></h1> - - -<p class="caption3nb">By <span class="smcap">F. C. Bishopp</span>, <i>Principal Entomologist in Charge,<br /> -Division of Insects Affecting Man and Animals, Bureau of Entomology</i></p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</a></h2> - - -<table class="tblcont" summary="TOC"> -<tr> - <td></td> - <td class="tdr smaller">Page</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Uses and limitations of flytraps</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#USES_AND_LIMITATIONS_OF_FLYTRAPS">1</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Kinds of flies caught</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#KINDS_OF_FLIES_CAUGHT">1</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Types of traps</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#TYPES_OF_TRAPS">2</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Trapping the screw-worm fly</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#TRAPPING_THE_SCREW-WORM_FLY5">11</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Baits for traps</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#BAITS_FOR_TRAPS">11</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Bait containers</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#BAIT_CONTAINERS">13</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Care and location of traps</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#CARE_AND_LOCATION_OF_TRAPS">14</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Sticky fly papers</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#STICKY_FLY_PAPERS">14</a></td> -</tr> -</table> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h2><a name="USES_AND_LIMITATIONS_OF_FLYTRAPS" id="USES_AND_LIMITATIONS_OF_FLYTRAPS">USES AND LIMITATIONS OF FLYTRAPS</a></h2> - - -<div class="dropcap">F</div> - -<p class="p0"><span class="hidden">F</span>LYTRAPS have a distinct place in the control of the house fly -and other noxious fly species. There is a general tendency, however, -for those engaged in combating flies to put too much dependence -on the flytrap as a method of abating the nuisance. It should be -borne in mind that flytrapping is only supplementary to other -methods of control, most notable of which is the prevention of breeding -either by completely disposing of breeding places or by treating -the breeding material with chemicals.</p> - -<p>It may be said that there are two main ways in which flytraps are -valuable: (1) By catching flies which come to clean premises from -other places which are insanitary and (2) by capturing those flies -which invariably escape in greater or less numbers the other means of -destruction which may be practiced. Furthermore, the number of -flies caught in traps serves as an index of the effectiveness of campaigns -against breeding places.</p> - -<p><i>Flytrapping should begin early in the spring if it is to be of -greatest value.</i> Although comparatively few flies are caught in the -early spring, their destruction means the prevention of the development -of myriads of flies by midsummer.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="KINDS_OF_FLIES_CAUGHT" id="KINDS_OF_FLIES_CAUGHT">KINDS OF FLIES CAUGHT</a></h2> - - -<p>The various species of flies which are commonly annoying about -habitations or where foodstuffs are being prepared may be divided -roughly into two classes: (1) Those which breed in animal matter, -consisting mainly of the so called blowflies, including the screw-worm -fly;<a name="FNanchor_1" id="FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and (2) those which breed in vegetable as well as in -animal matter. In the latter group the house fly<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> is by far the most -important. The stable fly is strictly a vegetable breeder, as are also -certain other species which occasionally come into houses and in rare -cases may contaminate foodstuffs. The stable fly,<a name="FNanchor_3" id="FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> which breeds in -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[ 2 ]</a></span> -horse manure or decaying vegetable matter, and the horn fly,<a name="FNanchor_4" id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> which -breeds in cow manure, are blood-sucking species, and can be caught in -ordinary flytraps in comparatively small numbers only. The kind -of flies caught depends to a considerable extent on the material used -for bait. In general, the house fly and other species which breed in -vegetable matter are attracted to vegetable substances, while the -blowflies will come most readily to animal matter. This rule, of -course, is not absolute, as flies are less restricted in feeding than in -breeding habits, and, as is well known, the house fly is attracted to a -greater or less extent to any moist material, especially if it has an -odor.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <i>Cochliomyia macellaria</i> Fab.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <i>Musca domestica</i> L.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <i>Stomoxys calcitrans</i> L.</p> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> <i>Haematobia irritans</i> L.</p></div> - - - - -<h2><a name="TYPES_OF_TRAPS" id="TYPES_OF_TRAPS">TYPES OF TRAPS</a></h2> - - -<p>The same general principle is involved in nearly all flytraps in use, -though superficially they may appear quite different. The flies are -attracted into a cage, as it were, by going through a passage the -entrance of which is large and the exit small, so that there is little -chance of the flies, once in, finding their way out again. This principle -is modified to fit different conditions. For instance, the window -trap, devised by C. F. Hodge, catches the flies as they endeavor -to enter or leave a building; the garbage-can trap, for which Professor -Hodge is also to be credited, catches the flies that have entered -garbage cans; and the manure-box trap retains the flies bred from -infested manure put into the box or pit.</p> - -<p>The attractant used to induce flies to enter traps may consist of -(1) food, as in baited traps; (2) odors, as in window traps placed in -windows from which odors are emitted; and (3) light, as in traps -on manure boxes. Of course, light is an important factor in the success -of all traps, for, as is well known, flies have a marked tendency -to go toward the light, and they usually enter the trap by flying -toward the light after having been attracted beneath it by bait or -after entering a room in search of food.</p> - - -<h3>CONICAL TRAPS</h3> - -<p>A number of traps of this general type are on the market, but most -of these are of small size. Nearly all are constructed with a dome -instead of a cone, and on this account the catching power is reduced -about one-third. Moreover, the farmer, dairyman, or anyone with a -few tools can construct traps at a small fraction of the sale price of -ready-made ones.</p> - -<p>There are now being made by certain firms in the Southwest traps -of the dimensions and with the desirable features discussed in the -following pages. These traps are all metal and some are built so -that they can be taken apart for shipment.</p> - - -<h3>THE CONICAL HOOP TRAP</h3> - -<p>A trap which appears from extensive tests made by E. W. Laake -and the writer to be best for effective trapping, durability, ease of -construction and repair, and cheapness may be made as follows:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[ 3 ]</a></span></p> - -<p>The trap consists essentially of a screen cylinder with a frame -made of barrel hoops, in the bottom of which is inserted a screen -cone. The height or the cylinder is 24 inches, the diameter 18 inches, -and the cone is 22 inches high, and 18 inches in diameter at the -base. Material necessary for this trap consists of four new or secondhand -wooden barrel hoops, one barrel head, four laths, 10 feet -of strips 1 to inches wide 1½ one-half inch thick (portions of -old boxes will suffice), 61 linear inches of 12 or 14 mesh galvanized -screening 24 inches wide for the sides of the trap and 41 inches of -screening 26 inches wide for the cone and door, an ounce of carpet -tacks, and two turn-buttons, -which may -be made of wood. -The total cost of the -material for this trap, -if all is bought new -at retail prices is -about $1. In practically all cases, however, the barrel hoops, -barrel head, lath, and -strips can be obtained -without expense. -This would reduce -the cost to that of -the wire and tacks, -which would be about -80 cents. If a larger -number of traps are -constructed at one -time, the cost is considerably -reduced.</p> - -<div class="fig_right" style="width: 305px;"><a id="fig1"></a> -<img src="images/fig1.png" width="305" height="391" alt="" /> -<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>—Conical hoop flytrap, side view. A, hoops forming -frame at bottom; B, hoops forming frame at top; -C, top of trap made of barrel head; D, strips around -door; E, door frame; F, screen on door; G, buttons -holding door; H, screen on outside of trap; I, strips -on side of trap between hoops; J, tips of these strips -projecting to form legs; K, cone; L, united edges of -screen forming cone; M, aperture at apex of cone</div> -</div> - -<p>One of these traps -is illustrated in Figures <a href="#fig1">1</a> and <a href="#fig2">2</a>. In constructing the trap -two of the hoops are -bent in a circle (18 -inches in diameter on -the inside), and nailed -together, the ends -being trimmed to -give a close fit. -These form the bottom of the frame (A), and the other two, -prepared in a similar way, the top (B). The top (C) of the trap -is made of an ordinary barrel head with the bevel edge sawed -off sufficiently to cause the head to fit closely in the hoops and -allow secure nailing. A square, 10 inches on the side, is cut out of -the center of the top to form a door. The portions of the top (barrel -head) are held together by inch strips (D) placed around the -opening one-half inch from the edge to form a jamb for the door. -The door consists of a narrow frame (E) covered with screen (F) -well fitted to the trap and held in place (not hinged) by buttons (G). -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[ 4 ]</a></span> -The top is then nailed in the upper hoops and the sides (H) formed -by closely tacking screen wire on the outside of the hoops. Four -laths (I) (or light strips) are nailed to the hoops on the outside of -the trap to act as supports between the hoops, and the ends are -allowed to project 1 inch at the bottom to form legs (J). The legs -are made to project inches when the traps are to be used with -bait pans 4 inches deep in trapping screw-worm flies. The cone -(K) is cut from the screen and either sewed with fine wire or soldered -where the edges meet at (L), or a narrow lath may be nailed along -these edges. The apex of the cone is then cut off to give an aperture -(M) 1 inch in diameter. It is then inserted in the trap and closely -tacked to the hoop around the base.</p> - -<div class="fig_center" style="width: 457px;"><a id="fig2"></a> -<img src="images/fig2.png" width="457" height="404" alt="" /> -<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>—Conical hoop flytrap, top view. Letters designate parts as in <a href="#fig1">Figure 1</a></div> -</div> - -<p>The construction of a cone of any given height or diameter is -quite simple if the following method be observed. It is best to cut -a pattern from a large piece of heavy paper, cardboard, or tin. -<a href="#fig3">Figure 3</a> illustrates the method of laying out a cone of the proper -dimensions for the above trap. An ordinary square is placed on -the material from which the pattern is to be cut; a distance (22 -inches) equal to the height of the cone is laid off on one leg of the -square at A, and a distance (9 inches) equal to one-half of the -diameter of the base of the cone is laid off on the other leg at B, -and a line is drawn between the points A and B. With the distance -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[ 5 ]</a></span> -between these points as a radius and with the point A as a center, -the portion of a circle, CD, is drawn. With a pair of dividers, the -legs of which are set 1 inch apart, or with the square, lay off as many -inches on the arc CD, starting at C, as there are inches around the -base of the cone, which in this case is about 56½ inches, reaching -nearly to the point E. Then add one-half inch for the lapping of -the edges of the cone, and one-half inch which is taken up when the -cone is tacked in, thus making a total distance from C to E of 57½ -inches. Draw a line from A to C and another from A to E, and cut -out the pattern on these lines and on the arc from C to E, as shown -in <a href="#fig3">Figure 3</a>. The edges AC and AE are then brought together, -lapped one-half inch, and sewed with wire or soldered. After the -aperture of the cone is formed by cutting off the apex, as previously -described, it is ready for insertion in the trap.</p> - -<div class="fig_center" style="width: 458px;"><a id="fig3"></a> -<img src="images/fig3.png" width="458" height="302" alt="" /> -<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span>—Method of laying out a pattern for the construction of a cone. Cut out on -curved line from C to E and on dotted lines from A to C and A to B</div> -</div> - -<p>In order to figure the distance around the base of a cone of any -given diameter, multiply the diameter by 3.1416 or 3<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>7</sub>.</p> - -<p>The height of the legs of the trap, the height of the cone, and the -size of the aperture in the top of the cone, each is of importance in -securing the greatest efficiency.</p> - - -<h3>OTHER FORMS OF CONICAL TRAPS</h3> - -<p>A modification of the previously described trap has been made by -D. C. Parman of the Bureau of Entomology. The principal point -of advantage in this type is that it can be made more quickly and -with fewer tools. The principles and dimensions are the same, the -most striking difference being the absence of a wooden top. A -single hoop with the thick edge down forms the upper frame of -the cylinder and the entire top is made of screen. A circular piece -of screen with a diameter about 3 inches greater than the diameter -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[ 6 ]</a></span> -of the cylinder is cut; a hoop with a diameter equal to the inside -of the top of the trap is then made of heavy wire and laid upon -the disk of screen and the edges of the screen bent in over it. -By folding in and crimping the edges of the wire over the wire -hoop it will remain in position without difficulty and the edges of the -screen disk are used to lift the top of the trap out for emptying flies. -It is important to have the screen top fit the inside of the cylinder -very snugly at all points. If there is any space left where flies can -escape it is a good plan to bind the edge of the top with a strip of -burlap. This not only helps to close the openings but keeps the hoop -in place and aids in removing the top. Another difference is that the -screen forming the sides of the cylinder is placed on the inside of the -hoops and legs, the frame being built first and then the cylinder -formed by tacking the wire on the inside of the hoops and nailing in -along the upright strips and against the wire short pieces of laths -with their upper ends against the lower edge of the hoop forming -the top of the trap and extending downward along the legs about two-thirds -of their length. These strips hold the wire in place and give -rigidity to the trap, and they are thick enough to project beyond the -inner surface of the hoop and form a support upon which the edges -of the screen top rest.</p> - -<p>Conical traps with galvanized-iron frames are satisfactory, but -they are less easily rescreened. These, of course, can be constructed -only by shops with considerable equipment. Traps constructed with -a wooden disk about the base of the cone, and a similar disk around -the top to serve as a frame, or those with a square wooden frame at -the bottom and top, with strips up the corners, are fairly satisfactory. -It should be borne in mind, however, that the factor which -determines the number of flies caught is the diameter of the base of -the cone, if other things are equal. Therefore, the space taken up by -the wooden framework is largely wasted, and if it is too wide it will -have a deterrent effect on the flies which come toward the bait. For -this reason it is advisable that the wood around the base of the cone -should be as narrow as consistent with strength—usually about 3 -inches.</p> - -<p>Under no condition should the sides or top of the trap be of solid -material, as the elimination of light from the top or sides has been -found to decrease the catch from 50 to 75 per cent.</p> - - -<h3>ALL-METAL FLYTRAP</h3> - -<p>Where large numbers of traps are to be constructed, and especially -if they are to be used for trapping screw-worm flies on the range, it is -desirable to make them with metal rather than wooden frames. Traps -with galvanized-iron frames are now being used extensively on -ranches in central and western Texas in combating the screw-worm -fly. Mechanics may wish to vary details of construction from those -given in the specifications, but the dimensions and general features -of the trap should not be altered. The cost of the metal-framed traps -varies from about $3.50 to $5 each according to the number ordered, -the workmanship, and the kind of materials used. For the guidance -of those who desire such traps the following directions, together with -a working drawing (<a href="#fig4">fig. 4</a>), are given:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[ 7 ]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>SPECIFICATIONS</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><i>Dimensions</i>—As per working drawing.</p> - -<p><i>Wire</i>—14-mesh galvanized or preferably copper screen wire.</p> - -<p><i>Cylinder</i>—Wire gauze, to be soldered completely around inside of top ring -and at intervals of 2 inches or less in groove of bottom ring. Vertical seam to -be soldered entire and placed behind one leg. Where shipment of traps is not -contemplated the diameter of the top of the cylinder may be the same as that -of the bottom.</p> - -<p><i>Top</i>—Wire gauze to be soldered completely around periphery on inside of -top ring.</p> - -<p><i>Cone</i>—Wire gauze to be soldered completely around inside of cone ring and -vertically along seam. A 1-inch inlet hole shall be formed at apex of cone.</p> - -<p><i>Frame</i>—To be made of 24-gauge galvanized iron. This includes top and -bottom rings and legs.</p> - -<p><i>Legs</i>—Galvanized-iron channels made as per detailed drawing and secured -to top and bottom rings with four rivets, <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>8</sub> inch in diameter, to each leg. -First turned and drilled as per drawing.</p> - -<p><i>Bottom cylinder ring</i>—<b>J</b> shaped, with bottom edge of cylinder dropped into -J—crimped and soldered to secure. Ends of ring riveted to secure.</p> - -<p><i>Cone ring</i>—Galvanized-iron band with <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>16</sub>-inch round iron wire rolled into -lower edge, as per cross-section drawing of "cone ring."</p> - -<p><i>Wing nuts</i>—Four copper wing bolts and nuts, as per drawing, to hold cone -securely in place.</p></div> - - -<h3>MANURE-BOX TRAPS</h3> - -<p>Manure pits or boxes are desirable for the temporary storage of -manure, especially in towns and cities. These have been widely -advocated, but the difficulty has been that manure often becomes -infested before it is put into them, and flies frequently breed out -before the boxes are emptied and often escape through the cracks. -To obviate these difficulties a manure box or pit, with a modified -tent trap or cone trap attached, is desirable. Arthur Swaim, of -Florida, has devised a form of manure trap consisting of a series of -screen tents with exit holes along the ridges of these, over which is a -screen box. The latter retains the flies as they pass through the -holes in the tents. The entire trap is removable.</p> - -<p>In order to retain the fertilizing value of manure to the greatest -extent, it is advisable to exclude the air from it as much as possible -and to protect it from the leaching action of rains. This being the -case, there is really no necessity to cover a large portion of the top -of the box with a trap, but merely to have holes large enough to -attract flies to the light and cover these holes with ordinary conical -traps with the legs cut off so the bottom of the trap will fit closely -to the box. The same arrangement can be made where manure is -kept in a pit. In large bins two or more holes covered with traps -should be provided for the escape of the flies.</p> - -<p>Manure boxes should be used by all stock owners in towns and -cities, and they are also adaptable to farms. The size of the manure -bin should be governed by the individual needs, but for use on the -farm it is desirable to make it large enough to hold all of the manure -produced during the busiest season of the year. A box 14 feet long, -10 feet wide, and 4 feet deep will hold the manure produced by two -horses during about five months. About 2 cubic feet of box space -should be allowed for each horse per day. The bin should be made -of concrete or heavy plank. When the latter is used the cracks -should be battened to prevent the escape of flies. The bin should have -a concrete floor or it may be set in the ground several inches and the -dirt closely banked around the outside. For the admission of the -manure a good-sized door should be provided in either end of a large -bin. A portion of the top should be made easily removable for convenience -in emptying the box, or one entire end of the box may be -hinged. On account of the danger of the door being left open -through carelessness it is advisable to arrange a lift door which can -be opened by placing the foot on a treadle as the manure is shoveled -in. The door should be heavy enough to close automatically -when the treadle is released.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[ 8 ]</a></span></p> - -<div class="fig_center" style="width: 540px;"><a id="fig4"></a> -<a href="images/fig4lrg.png"><img src="images/fig4.png" width="540" height="330" alt="" /></a> -<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span>—Working drawings of all-metal flytrap. The cones are removable and -traps and cones can be telescoped for shipment. The trap may be made 18 inches in diameter -at the top as well as at the bottom if traps are not to be shipped. -[Click on image to view larger sized]</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[ 9 ]</a></span></p> - -<div class="fig_center" style="width: 458px;"><a id="fig5"></a> -<img src="images/fig5.png" width="458" height="375" alt="" /> -<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 5.</span>—Use of flytrap in connection with manure bin. A, block of wood set in ground -to which lever raising door is hinged</div> -</div> - -<p>A concrete pit set on a slope so that the manure may be dumped in -from a wheelbarrow is convenient for dairy farms. For large stock -farms it may be desirable to have a concrete pit so constructed as to -permit of the manure being taken directly into it with a litter carrier -and doors provided which are large enough to admit a wagon or -manure spreader for the removal of the material.</p> - -<p>A manure bin with flytrap attached is shown in <a href="#fig5">Figure 5</a>.</p> - -<p>Attention is directed to a maggot trap devised by R. H. Hutchison, -as described in Farmers' Bulletin 851 of the Department of Agriculture. -Where large quantities of manure are produced on a farm, -this method of storing the manure on a platform and trapping the -maggots which breed out may be more convenient than the manure bin.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[ 10 ]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>WINDOW TRAPS</h3> - -<p>C. F. Hodge has designed a trap which is really a modified tent -trap adapted to use in a window. This trap is constructed so -as to catch the flies as they enter or leave through the window. It -is adaptable to barns which are fairly free from cracks or other places -where flies may enter. It may also be used on windows of buildings -where foodstuffs are prepared and where flies endeavor to enter -through the windows or escape after having gained entrance through -other passageways. All openings not provided with traps should be -closely screened, and on large buildings traps may be installed in -every third window.</p> - -<div class="fig_center" style="width: 460px;"><a id="fig6"></a> -<img src="images/fig6.png" width="460" height="320" alt="" /> -<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 6.</span>—Hodge type window trap. At left, trap with end removed to show construction; -at right, cross section of trap placed in a window. A, end of trap; B, upper side of -folds in screen; C, lower side of folds in screen; D, portion of end of trap sawed out -and returned after attaching screen; E, holes along apex of folds; F, door for -removing dead flies; G, window sill; H, upper window sash; I, inside entrance for -flies; O, outside entrances</div> -</div> - -<p>This trap is essentially a screen box closely fitted to the frame of a -window. (See <a href="#fig6">fig. 6</a>.) The thickness of the box at A should be about -12 inches. Instead of the screen running straight down over the box -on either side, it is folded inward nearly to the center of the frame -in <b>V</b>-shaped folds running longitudinally across the window. One, -two, or even more folds may be made in the screen on either side. -The upper side of the fold B should extend toward the center almost -at right angles with the side of the trap; that is, parallel with the -top and bottom; and the lower side C should slant downward as -shown in the drawing. The sides of the frame may be cut out at -the proper angle and the pieces D returned after the screen has been -tacked along the edges. Along the apex (inner edge) of each fold is -punched a series of holes E about one-half inch in diameter and 1 -inch apart. The apices of the folds on either side of the window -should not be directly opposite. A narrow door F opening downward -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[ 11 ]</a></span> -on hinges should be made on one side of the trap at the bottom -for removal of the dead flies. The entire trap is fastened to the window -by hooks so that it may be readily taken off. An additional -trapping feature may be added by providing a tent trap fitted in the -bottom of the box. A narrow slit is left along the base to allow the -flies to enter beneath the tent. Bait may be placed under the tent to -attract the flies.</p> - -<p>It has been found that the use of these window traps will aid in -protecting animals in barns from stable flies and mosquitoes, and in -some cases horseflies and other noxious species are caught. They -tend to exclude the light, however, and are somewhat cumbersome, -especially in thin-walled buildings.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="TRAPPING_THE_SCREW-WORM_FLY5" id="TRAPPING_THE_SCREW-WORM_FLY5"></a>TRAPPING THE SCREW-WORM FLY<a name="FNanchor_5" id="FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></h2> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> <i>Cochliomyia macellaria</i> Fab.</p></div> - - -<p>Recent efforts to reduce the loss to the livestock industry of the -Southwest resulting from the ravages of the screw-worm have -directed attention to the employment of flytraps in this work.</p> - -<p>Mention has been made of the importance of preventing the breeding -of flies as a prerequisite to effective control. This is equally true -of the screw-worm and other blowflies, which attack animals, and of -the house fly. In the case of these blowflies main dependence must -be placed on the complete and prompt burning of all carcasses and -animal refuse.</p> - -<p>Experiments conducted in the range sections of Texas indicate -that traps properly baited and set are of material aid in preventing -screw-worm injury to livestock. If general trapping is undertaken, -at least three or four traps should be maintained on each section of -land. These should be located preferably near watering places and -where cattle congregate, especially in the so-called hospital pastures -or traps, where the screw-worm-infested animals are kept for treatment.</p> - -<p>The conical-type traps as described are advised. The traps should -be set in broken shade on a board platform about 2 feet square, -securely fastened to a tree or on a post where the trap and bait will -be the least disturbed by stock or wild animals.</p> - -<p>During the latter half of one season over 100 gallons of flies, the -vast majority of which were screw-worm flies, were captured in -about 25 traps operated on a ranch in west Texas.</p> - -<p>The question of the baits best adapted for this species and other -points in regard to the operation of the traps are briefly discussed -under subsequent headings.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="BAITS_FOR_TRAPS" id="BAITS_FOR_TRAPS">BAITS FOR TRAPS</a></h2> - - -<p>The problem of selecting the best bait for flies is an important -one. In choosing a bait it should be remembered that it is largely -the fermentation which renders the material attractive, and that -baits are most attractive during their most active period of fermentation. -As has been indicated, the kind of bait used should be governed -by the species of flies the destruction of which is desired. This -is most often the house fly.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[ 12 ]</a></span></p> - -<p>A mixture of 1 part of a cheap cane molasses (blackstrap or New -Orleans) and 3 parts of water is one of the most economical and -effective baits for the house fly. Sugar-beet or stock molasses, which -is very cheap in regions where produced, when mixed in the foregoing -proportions is fairly attractive. Sirup made by dissolving -1 part of ordinary brown sugar in 4 parts of water and allowing the -mixture to stand a day or two to induce fermentation is almost equal -to molasses and water as a fly bait. If it is desired to use the sirup -immediately after making it, a small quantity of vinegar should be -added. Honeybees are sometimes caught in large numbers with this -bait. When this happens some of the other baits recommended -should be used.</p> - -<p>On dairy farms probably milk is next choice as a bait to cane-molasses -solution, considering its convenience. The addition of ripe -bananas or other fruit increases the attractiveness of the milk bait. -The curd from milk, with one-half pound of brown sugar added for -each pound, and water to make it thoroughly moist, is a very good -bait and continues to be attractive for 10 days or longer if Kept -moist. A mash consisting of one-half pound of bran, 1 quart of -milk, 1 quart of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and a yeast -cake makes an attractive and lasting bait.</p> - -<p>The foregoing baits are rendered more attractive by stirring -occasionally.</p> - - -<h3>BLOWFLY BAITS FOR USE AROUND MARKETS, ETC.</h3> - -<p>With the baits before mentioned few blowflies will be caught. -For use about slaughterhouses, butcher shops, and other places where -blowflies are troublesome it has been determined that the mucous -membranes which form the lining of the intestines of cattle or hogs -are without equal as a bait. This material, which is commonly -spoken of as "gut slime," can be obtained from packing houses where -sausage casings are prepared. The offensive odor of this bait renders -its use undesirable around habitations or materials intended for -human consumption.</p> - -<p>At the front of and at loading docks of meat-packing establishments, -where house flies are troublesome and blowflies are usually -not abundant, it is best to bait the traps with one of the house-fly -baits listed above. Around meat markets, where both house flies and -blowflies abound, one of the combination baits given on <a href="#COMBINATION_BAITS">page 13</a> -should be employed.</p> - - -<h3>BAITS FOR SCREW-WORMS AND BLOWFLIES UNDER RANGE CONDITIONS</h3> - -<p>Where rabbits or other wild animals are plentiful they make a -very satisfactory bait for use on the ranges; in fact, they are rather -better than any other available bait. The animal should be opened -up so as to expose the intestines; and when the weather is very dry -it is best to keep some water in the pan, as it adds to the attractiveness -of the bait. Entrails and other animal refuse may be utilized -in a similar way when they are available. In large trapping operations -goats or sheep culled from the flock are cut up for bait, from -1 to 2 pounds of meat being used in each bait pan.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[ 13 ]</a></span></p> - -<p>The main objection to the use of these meat baits is that some -maggots are likely to complete their growth and escape from the bait -pans. This can be largely avoided by adding nicotine sulphate to -the water in the bait pan in the proportion of one teaspoonful to -each gallon of water. This does not check the decomposition enough -to reduce the attractiveness of the bait and practically prohibits the -escape of any maggots.</p> - -<p>As a substitute for wild animals or animal refuse when they are -not available, experiments show that fairly satisfactory catches can -be secured by utilizing dried "gut slime" or dried whole egg. The -former is not generally on the market but can be prepared by -packing houses at a moderate cost. Both of these materials are -easily carried on a saddle horse, and all that is necessary is to place -about one-fourth pound in the bait pan and add 1 gallon of water, -after which the mixture should be stirred. The more frequently -any of these baits is agitated, the greater the catch which will be -secured. If the bait is kept well moistened it will continue attractive -for 10 days or longer. These baits should be kept alkaline by -the addition, once or twice a week, of a teaspoonful of washing or -baking soda.</p> - - -<h3><a id="COMBINATION_BAITS"></a>COMBINATION BAITS</h3> - -<p>With a number of the baits before mentioned both house flies and -blowflies are captured. This is especially true with the "gut slime" -and dried egg. Where both of these kinds of flies are abundant -such baits are desirable. Certain other mixtures may also be utilized. -A packing-house product known as blood tankage is a good fly bait -when used before drying and with molasses and water. Fish scraps -or meat scraps, especially with molasses and water added, will attract -all kinds of flies. Overripe or fermenting fruit such as watermelon -rinds or crushed bananas often gives very satisfactory results. A -combination of overripe bananas with milk is much more attractive -than either one used separately.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="BAIT_CONTAINERS" id="BAIT_CONTAINERS">BAIT CONTAINERS</a></h2> - - -<p>The size of the bait container in relation to the size of the trap -is a very important consideration. It has been found that a small -pan or a deep pan of bait set in the center under a trap will catch -only a small fraction of the number of flies secured by using larger -shallow containers. The best and most convenient pan for baits is -a shallow circular tin, such as the cover of a lard bucket. Under -range conditions it is advisable to use a more substantial bait pan -and preferably one 4 inches deep, so that a greater quantity of bait -may be used, thus preventing complete drying out between visits to -the trap. Its diameter should be about 4 inches less than that of the -base of the trap, thus bringing the edge within 2 inches of the outside -edge of the trap. For liquid baits the catch can be increased -slightly by placing a piece of sponge or a few chips in the center -of the bait pan to provide additional surface upon which the flies -may alight.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[ 14 ]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CARE_AND_LOCATION_OF_TRAPS" id="CARE_AND_LOCATION_OF_TRAPS">CARE AND LOCATION OF TRAPS</a></h2> - - -<p>In many cases flytrapping has been rendered ineffectual by the -fact that the traps were not properly placed or cared for. In setting -traps a location should be chosen where flies naturally congregate. -This is usually on the sunny side of a building out of the wind. -In hot weather, however, traps should be placed so as to be in shade -during midday. It is exceedingly important that the bait containers -be kept well filled. This usually requires attention every other day. -The bait pans should be washed out at rather frequent intervals. -This gives a larger catch and avoids the danger of flies breeding in -the material used for bait. Further, it should be borne in mind that -traps can not be operated successfully throughout the season without -emptying them. Where flies are abundant and the bait pans are -properly attended to the traps should be emptied at weekly intervals. -Where flies become piled high against the side of the cone, the catching -power of the trap is considerably reduced. The destruction of -the flies is best accomplished by immersing the trap in hot water or, -still better, where a tight barrel is at hand place a few live coals in a -pan on the ground, scatter two tablespoonfuls of sulphur over them, -place the trap over the coals, and turn the barrel over the trap. -All of the flies will be rendered motionless in about five minutes. -They may then be killed by using hot water, throwing them into -a fire, or burying them. In the operation of flytraps in controlling -the screw-worm it has not been found necessary, especially during -hot weather, to kill the flies, as they die very rapidly within the -traps. In order to empty a trap it may be inverted and the dead flies -shaken down. As the living flies will naturally go upward, the door -may then be removed and the dead flies shaken out, the door replaced, -and the trap set upright without loss of many of the living flies. The -location of traps used against the screw-worm fly is briefly discussed -on <a href="#TRAPPING_THE_SCREW-WORM_FLY5">page 11</a>.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="STICKY_FLY_PAPERS" id="STICKY_FLY_PAPERS">STICKY FLY PAPERS</a></h2> - - -<p>Sticky fly papers are of some value in destroying flies which have -gained access to houses, but they have marked limitations and numerous -objectionable features. For use out of doors traps are much -more effective and economical.</p> - -<p>Doctor Crumbine, of the Kansas State Board of Health, gives the -following method for preparing fly paper:</p> - -<p>"Take 2 pounds of rosin and 1 pint of castor oil; heat together -until it looks like molasses. Take an ordinary paintbrush and smear -while hot on any kind of paper—an old newspaper is good—and -place several about the room. A dozen of these may be made at a -cost of 1 cent."</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="transnotes"> -<p class="caption3">Transcriber Note</p> - -<p>Minor typos have been corrected. Illustrations were moved to prevent -splitting paragraphs. Produced from files generously made available by -USDA through The Internet Archive. All resultant materials are placed in -the Public Domain.</p> - -</div> - - - - - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: -Flytraps and Their Operation (1930), by F. C. Bishopp - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA FARMERS' BULLETIN NO. *** - -***** This file should be named 63227-h.htm or 63227-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/2/2/63227/ - -Produced by Tom Cosmas from files generously made available -by USDA through The Internet Archive. 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