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+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #63226 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/63226)
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: Flytraps
-and Their Operation (1921), by F. C. Bishopp
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: Flytraps and Their Operation (1921)
-
-Author: F. C. Bishopp
-
-Release Date: September 18, 2020 [EBook #63226]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA FARMERS' BULLETIN ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Tom Cosmas from files generously made available
-by USDA through The Internet Archive. All resultant
-materials are placed in the Public Domain.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber Note
-
-Text emphasis denoted as _Italics_ and =Bold=. Whole and fractional parts
-of numbers as 123-4/5.
-
-
-
-                      =FLYTRAPS AND THEIR OPERATION=
-
-
-                              F. C. BISHOPP
-
-          Entomologist, Investigations of Insects Affecting the
-                            Health of Animals
-
-
-                              [Illustration]
-
-
-                          FARMERS' BULLETIN 734
-
-                 UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
-
-
-
-                Contribution from the Bureau of Entomology
-                           L. O. HOWARD, Chief
-
-
-
- Washington, D. C.   Issued June 10, 1916; second revision, March, 1921.
-
-
-Show this bulletin to a neighbor. Additional copies may be obtained free
-from the Division of Publications, United States Department of Agriculture
-
-
-              WASHINGTON : GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1921
-
-
-RESULTS obtained in experiments with the use of chemicals against fly
-larvę in manure are presented in Bulletins Nos. 118, 245, and 408 of the
-Department of Agriculture. The biology of the house fly and the various
-methods of control are discussed in Farmers' Bulletin 851.
-
-This bulletin is intended to give directions for the use of a
-supplementary means of controlling flies. It is adapted to all parts of
-the United States.
-
-
-
-
-=FLYTRAPS AND THEIR OPERATION.=
-
-
-
-
-=CONTENTS.=
-
-
-                                              Page.
-
-  Uses and limitations of flytraps               3
-
-  Kinds of flies caught                          3
-
-  Types of traps                                 4
-
-  Trapping the screw-worm fly                   13
-
-  Baits for traps                               13
-
-  Bait containers                               15
-
-  Care and location of traps                    15
-
-  Sticky fly papers                             16
-
-  Poisoned baits                                16
-
-      Caution                                   16
-
-
-
-
-=USES AND LIMITATIONS OF FLYTRAPS.=
-
-
-FLYTRAPS have a distinct place in the control of the house fly and other
-noxious fly species. There is a general tendency, however, for those
-engaged in combating flies to put too much dependence on the flytrap
-as a method of abating the nuisance. It should be borne in mind that
-flytrapping is only supplementary to other methods of control, most
-notable of which is the prevention of breeding either by completely
-disposing of breeding places or by treating the breeding material with
-chemicals.
-
-It may be said that there are two main ways in which flytraps are
-valuable: (1) By catching flies which come to clean premises from
-other places which are insanitary and (2) by capturing those flies
-which invariably escape in greater or less numbers the other means of
-destruction which may be practiced. Furthermore, the number of flies
-caught in traps serves as an index of the effectiveness of campaigns
-against breeding places.
-
-_Flytrapping should begin early in the spring if it is to be of greatest
-value._ Although comparatively few flies are caught in the early spring,
-their destruction means the prevention of the development of myriads of
-flies by midsummer.
-
-
-
-
-=KINDS OF FLIES CAUGHT.=
-
-
-The various species of flies which are commonly annoying about habitations
-or where foodstuffs are being prepared may be divided roughly into two
-classes: (1) Those which breed in animal matter, consisting mainly of the
-so-called blowflies, including the screw-worm fly;[1] and (2) those which
-breed in vegetable as well as in animal matter. In the latter group the
-house fly[2] is by far the most important. The stable fly is strictly a
-vegetable breeder, as are also certain other species which occasionally
-come into houses and in rare cases may contaminate foodstuffs. The stable
-fly,[3] which breeds in cow manure or decaying vegetable matter, and the
-horn fly,[4] which breeds in manure, are blood-sucking species, and can be
-caught in ordinary flytraps in comparatively small numbers only. The kind
-of flies caught depends to a considerable extent on the material used for
-bait. In general the house fly and other species which breed in vegetable
-matter are attracted to vegetable substances, while the blowflies will
-come most readily to animal matter. This rule, of course, is not absolute,
-as flies are less restricted in feeding than in breeding habits, and, as
-is well known, the house fly is attracted to a greater or less extent to
-any moist material, especially if it has an odor.
-
-[1] _Chrysomyia macellaria_ Pab.
-
-[2] _Musca domestica_ L.
-
-[3] _Stomoxys calcitrans_ L.
-
-[4] _Lyperosia irritans_ L.
-
-
-
-
-=TYPES OF TRAPS.=
-
-
-The same general principle is involved in nearly all flytraps in use,
-though superficially they may appear quite different. The flies are
-attracted into a cage, as it were, by going through a passage the entrance
-of which is large and the exit small, so that there is little chance
-of the flies, once in, finding their way out again. This principle is
-modified to fit different conditions. For instance, the window trap,
-devised by Prof. C. F. Hodge, catches the flies as they endeavor to enter
-or leave a building; the garbage-can trap, for which Prof. Hodge is also
-to be credited, catches the flies that have entered garbage cans; and the
-manure-box trap retains the flies bred from infested manure put into the
-box.
-
-The attractant used to induce flies to enter traps may consist of (1)
-food, as in baited traps; (2) odors, as in window traps placed in windows
-from which odors are emitted; and (3) light, as in traps on manure boxes.
-Of course, light is an important factor in the success of all traps, for,
-as is well known, flies have a marked tendency to go toward the light, and
-they usually enter the trap by flying toward the light after having been
-attracted beneath it by bait or after entering a room in search of food.
-
-
-=CONICAL TRAPS.=
-
-A number of traps of this general type are on the market, but most of
-these are of small size. Nearly all are constructed with a dome instead of
-a cone, and on this account the catching power is reduced about one-third.
-Moreover, the farmer, dairyman, or anyone with a few tools can construct
-traps at a small fraction of the sale price of ready-made ones.
-
-
-=THE CONICAL HOOP TRAP.=
-
-A trap which appears from extensive tests made by Mr. E. W. Laake and the
-author to be best for effective trapping, durability, ease of construction
-and repair, and cheapness may be made as follows:
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Conical hoop flytrap, side view. _A_, Hoops
-forming frame at bottom. _B_, Hoops forming frame at top. _C_, Top of trap
-made of barrel head. _D_, Strips around door. _E_, Door frame. _F_, Screen
-on door. _G_, Buttons holding door. _H_, Screen on outside of trap. _I_,
-Strips on side of trap between hoops. _J_, Tips of these strips projecting
-to form legs, _K_. Cone. _L_, United edges of screen forming cone. _M_,
-Aperture at apex of cone.]
-
-The trap consists essentially of a screen cylinder with a frame made of
-barrel hoops, in the bottom of which is inserted a screen cone. The height
-of the cylinder is 24 inches, the diameter 18 inches, and the cone is 22
-inches high, and 18 inches in diameter at the base. Material necessary
-for this trap consists of four new or secondhand wooden barrel hoops, one
-barrel head, four laths, 10 feet of strips 1 to 1½ inches wide by one-half
-inch thick (portions of old boxes will suffice), 61 linear inches of 12
-or 14 mesh galvanized screening 24 inches wide for the sides of the trap
-and 41 inches of screening 26 inches wide for the cone and door, an ounce
-of carpet tacks, and two turn-buttons, which may be made of wood. The
-total cost of the material for this trap, if all is bought new at retail
-prices, is about $1. In practically all cases, however, the barrel hoops,
-barrel head, lath, and strips can be obtained without expense. This would
-reduce the cost to that of the wire and tacks, which would be 80 cents.
-If a larger number of traps are constructed at one time, the cost is
-considerably reduced.
-
-One of these traps is illustrated in figures 1 and 2. In constructing the
-trap two of the hoops are bent in a circle (18 inches in diameter on the
-inside), and nailed together, the ends being trimmed to give a close fit.
-These form the bottom of the frame (_A_), and the other two, prepared in
-a similar way, the top (_B_). The top (_C_) of the trap is made of an
-ordinary barrel head with the bevel edge sawed off sufficiently to cause
-the head to fit closely in the hoops and allow secure nailing. A square,
-10 inches on the side, is cut out of the center of the top to form a door.
-The portions of the top (barrel head) are held together by inch strips
-(_D_) placed around the opening one-half inch from the edge to form a
-jamb for the door. The door consists of a narrow frame (_E_) covered with
-screen (_F_) well fitted to the trap and held in place (not hinged) by
-buttons (_G_). The top is then nailed in the upper hoops and the sides
-(_H_) formed by closely tacking screen wire on the outside of the hoops.
-Four laths (_I_) (or light strips) are nailed to the hoops on the outside
-of the trap to act as supports between the hoops, and the ends are allowed
-to project 1 inch at the bottom to form legs (_J_). The cone (_K_) is cut
-from the screen and either sewed with fine wire or soldered where the
-edges meet at (_L_), or a narrow lath may be nailed along these edges.
-The apex of the cone is then cut off to give an aperture (_M_) 1 inch in
-diameter. It is then inserted in the trap and closely tacked to the hoop
-around the base.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Conical hoop flytrap, top view. Letters designate
-parts as in figure 1.]
-
-The construction of a cone of any given height or diameter is quite simple
-if the following method be observed. It is best to cut a pattern from a
-large piece of heavy paper, cardboard, or tin, Figure 3 illustrates the
-method of laying out a cone of the proper dimensions for the above trap.
-An ordinary square is placed on the material from which the pattern is to
-be cut; a distance (22 inches) equal to the height of the cone is laid
-off on one leg of the square at _A_, and a distance (9 inches) equal to
-one-half of the diameter of the base of the cone is laid off on the other
-leg at _B_, and a line is drawn between the points _A_ and _B_. With the
-distance between these points as a radius and with the point _A_ as a
-center, the portion of a circle, _C D_, is drawn. With a pair of dividers,
-the legs of which are set 1 inch apart, or with the square, lay off as
-many inches on the arc _C D_, starting at _C_, as there are inches around
-the base of the cone, which in this case is about 56½ inches, reaching
-nearly to the point _E_. Then add one-half inch for the lapping of the
-edges of the cone, and one-half inch which is taken up when the cone is
-tacked in, thus making a total distance from _C_ to _E_ of 57½ inches.
-Draw a line from _A_ to _C_ and another from _A_ to _E_, and cut out the
-pattern on these lines and on the arc from _C_ to as shown in figure
-3. The edges _AC_ and _AE_ are then brought together, lapped one-half
-inch, and sewed with wire or soldered. After the aperture of the cone is
-formed by cutting off the apex, as previously described, it is ready for
-insertion in the trap.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Method of laying out a pattern for the
-construction of a cone. Cut out on curved line _C_ to _E_ and on dotted
-lines from _A_ to _C_ and _A_ to _E_.]
-
-In order to figure the distance around the base of a cone of any given
-diameter multiply the diameter by 3.1416 or 3-1/7.
-
-The height of the legs of the trap, the height of the cone, and the size
-of the aperture in the top of the cone, each are of importance in securing
-the greatest efficiency.
-
-
-=OTHER FORMS OF CONICAL TRAPS.=
-
-A modification of the previously described trap has been made by Mr. D. C.
-Parman of the Bureau of Entomology. The principal point of advantage in
-this type is that it can be made more quickly and with fewer tools. The
-principles and dimensions are the same, the most striking difference being
-the absence of a wooden top. A single hoop with the thick edge down forms
-the upper frame of the cylinder and the entire top is made of screen.
-A circular piece of screen with a diameter about 3 inches greater than
-the diameter of the cylinder is cut; a hoop with a diameter equal to the
-inside of the top of the trap is then made of heavy wire and laid upon the
-disk of screen and the edges of the screen bent in over it. By folding in
-and crimping the edges of the wire over the wire hoop it will remain in
-position without difficulty and the edges of the screen disk are used to
-lift the top of the trap out for emptying flies. It is important to have
-the screen top fit the inside of the cylinder very snugly at all points.
-If there is any space left where flies can escape it is a good plan to
-bind the edge of the top with a strip of burlap. This not only helps
-to close the openings but keeps the hoop in place and aids in removing
-the top. Another difference is that the screen forming the sides of the
-cylinder is placed on the inside of the hoops and legs, the frame being
-built first and then the cylinder formed by tacking the wire on the inside
-of the hoops and nailing in along the upright strips and against the wire
-short pieces of laths with their upper ends against the lower edge of the
-hoop forming the top of the trap and extending downward along the legs
-about two-thirds of their length. These strips hold the wire in place and
-give rigidity to the trap, and they are thick enough to project beyond the
-inner surface of the hoop and form a support upon which the edges of the
-screen top rest.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Tent flytrap. When the trap is set up the screen
-box. _A_, fits on the base, _B_, and two pans of bait are placed beneath
-the tent. _C_, Hole in screen at apex of tent.]
-
-Conical traps with steel frames are satisfactory, but they are less easily
-rescreened. These, of course, can be constructed only by shops with
-considerable equipment. Traps constructed with a wooden disk about the
-base of the cone, and a similar disk around the top to serve as a frame,
-or those with a square wooden frame at the bottom and top, with strips up
-the corners, are fairly satisfactory. It should be borne in mind that the
-factor which determines the number of flies caught is the diameter of the
-base of the cone, if other things are equal. Therefore the space taken up
-by the wooden framework is largely wasted, and if it is too wide it will
-have a deterrent effect on the flies which come toward the bait. For this
-reason it is advisable that the wood around the base of the cone should be
-as narrow as consistent with strength--usually about 3 inches.
-
-_Under no condition should the sides or top of the trap be of solid
-material_, as the elimination of light from the top or sides has been
-found to decrease the catch from 50 to 75 per cent.
-
-
-=TENT TRAPS.=
-
-The tent form of trap has been widely advocated in this country, but
-recent experiments indicate that it is much less efficient than the cone
-trap, and usually as difficult to construct and almost as expensive. The
-size of these traps may vary considerably, but one constructed according
-to the dimensions given in figure 4 will be found most convenient. The
-height of the tent should be about equal to the width of the base, and the
-holes (_C_) along the apex of the tent should be one-half to three-fourths
-of an inch in diameter and 1 inch apart. The box (_A_) should be provided
-with hooks to pass through the eyes on the base (_B_). Small blocks 1 inch
-thick are nailed beneath the corners of the tent frame to serve as legs.
-
-
-=GARBAGE-CAN TRAPS.=
-
-As previously mentioned. Prof. Hodge has adapted the cone trap to use on
-the lids of garbage cans. It is not advisable to use this trap except
-where garbage cans are sufficiently open to admit flies. In such cases a
-hole may be cut in the lid of the can and one of the small balloon traps
-which are obtainable on the market attached over the hole. To make the
-trap effective the edges of this lid should extend well down over the top
-of the can. The lid should be held up slightly so as to allow the flies
-to pass under, but not high enough to admit direct light. Practically
-speaking, the garbage forms the bait for this trap, and when inside the
-can the flies are attracted to the light admitted through the trap. It
-is really advisable to have the garbage cans fly proof, so as to prevent
-danger of fly breeding within them rather than to depend on traps on the
-lids, which necessarily allow odors to escape. A garbage can with a trap
-attached is illustrated in figure 5.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5.--Top of garbage can with small balloon flytrap
-attached.]
-
-
-=MANURE-BOX TRAPS.=
-
-Manure pits or boxes are desirable for the temporary storage of manure,
-especially in towns and cities. These have been widely advocated, but the
-difficulty has been that manure often becomes infested before it is put
-into them, and flies frequently breed out before the boxes are emptied and
-often escape through the cracks. To obviate these difficulties a manure
-box or pit, with a modified tent trap or cone trap attached, is desirable.
-Mr. Arthur Swaim, of Florida, has devised a form of manure trap consisting
-of a series of screen tents with exit holes along the ridges of these,
-over which is a screen box. The latter retains the flies as they pass
-through the holes in the tents. The entire trap is removable.
-
-In order to retain the fertilizing value of manure to the greatest extent
-it is advisable to exclude the air from it as much as possible and to
-protect it from the leaching action of rains. This being the case, there
-is really no necessity to cover a large portion of the top of the box with
-a trap, but merely to have holes large enough to attract flies to the
-light, and cover these holes with ordinary conical traps, with the legs
-cut off, so the bottom of the trap will fit closely to the box. The same
-arrangement can be made where manure is kept in a pit. In large bins two
-or more holes covered with traps should be provided for the escape of the
-flies.
-
-Manure boxes should be used by all stock owners in towns and cities, and
-they are also adaptable to farms. The size of the manure bin should be
-governed by the individual needs, but for use on the farm it is desirable
-to make it large enough to hold all of the manure produced during the
-busiest season of the year. A box 14 feet long, 10 feet wide, and 4 feet
-deep will hold the manure produced by two horses during about five months.
-About 2 cubic feet of box space should be allowed for each horse per day.
-The bin should be made of concrete or heavy plank. When the latter is used
-the cracks should be battened to prevent the escape of flies. The bin may
-have a floor or it may be set in the ground several inches and the dirt
-closely banked around the outside. For the admission of the manure a
-good-sized door should be provided in either end of a large bin. A portion
-of the top should be made easily removable for convenience in emptying the
-box, or one entire end of the box may be hinged. On account of the danger
-of the door being left open through carelessness, it is advisable to
-arrange a lift door which can be opened by placing the foot on a treadle
-as the manure is shoveled in. The door should be heavy enough to close
-automatically when the treadle is released. A manure bin with flytrap
-attached is shown in figure 6.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6.--Use of flytrap in connection with manure bin. _A_,
-Block of wood set in ground to which lever raising door is hinged.]
-
-Attention is directed to a maggot trap devised by Mr. R. H. Hutchison, as
-described in Farmers' Bulletin 851 of the Department of Agriculture. Where
-large quantities of manure are produced on a farm this method of storing
-the manure on a platform and trapping the maggots which breed out may be
-more convenient than the manure bin.
-
-
-=WINDOW TRAPS.=
-
-Prof. C. F. Hodge has designed a trap which is really a modified tent
-trap adapted to use in a window. This trap is constructed so as to catch
-the flies as they enter or leave through the window. It is adaptable to
-barns which are fairly free from cracks or other places where flies may
-enter. It may also be used on windows of buildings where foodstuffs are
-prepared and where flies endeavor to enter through the windows or escape
-after having gained entrance through other passageways. All openings not
-provided with traps should be closely screened, and on large buildings
-traps may be installed in every third window.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 7.--Hodge type window trap. At left, trap with end
-removed to show construction; at right, cross section of trap placed in
-a window. _A_, End of trap. _B_, Upper side of folds in screen. _C_,
-Lower side of folds in screen. _D_, Portion of end of trap sawed out and
-returned after attaching screen. _E_, Holes along apex of folds. _F_, Door
-for removing dead flies. _G_, Window sill. _H_, Upper window sash. _I_,
-Inside entrance for flies. _O_, Outside entrances.]
-
-This trap is essentially a screen box closely fitted to the frame of a
-window (see fig. 7). The thickness of the box at _A_ should be about 12
-inches. Instead of the screen running straight down over the box on either
-side it is folded inward nearly to the center of the frame in =V=-shaped
-folds running longitudinally across the window. One, two, or even more
-folds may be made in the screen on either side. The upper side of the fold
-_B_ should extend toward the center almost at right angles with the side
-of the trap--that is, parallel with the top and bottom; and the lower side
-_C_ should slant downward as shown in the drawing. The sides of the frame
-may be cut out at the proper angle and the pieces _D_ returned after the
-screen has been tacked along the edges. Along the apex (inner edge) of
-each fold is punched a series of holes _E_ about one-half inch in diameter
-and 1 inch apart. The apices of the folds on either side of the window
-should not be directly opposite. A narrow door _F_ opening downward on
-hinges should be made on one side of the trap at the bottom for removal of
-the dead flies. The entire trap is fastened to the window by hooks so that
-it may be readily taken off. An additional trapping feature may be added
-by providing a tent trap fitted in the bottom of the box. A narrow slit is
-left along the base to allow the flies to enter beneath the tent. Bait
-may be placed under the tent to attract the flies.
-
-It has been found that the use of these window traps will aid in
-protecting animals in barns from stable flies and mosquitoes, and in
-some cases horseflies and other noxious species are caught. They tend to
-exclude the light, however, and are somewhat cumbersome, especially in
-thin-walled buildings.
-
-
-
-
-=TRAPPING THE SCREW-WORM FLY.=[5]
-
-[5] _Chrysomyia macellaria_ Fab.
-
-
-Recent efforts to reduce the loss to the live-stock industry of the
-Southwest resulting from the ravages of the screw-worm have directed
-attention to the employment of flytraps in this work.
-
-Mention has been made of the importance of preventing the breeding of
-flies as a prerequisite to effective control. This is equally true of the
-screw-worm and other blowflies, which attack animals, and of the house
-fly. In the case of these blowflies main dependence must be placed on the
-complete and prompt burning of all carcasses and animal refuse.
-
-Experiments conducted in the range sections of Texas indicate that traps
-properly baited and set are of material aid in preventing screw-worm
-injury to live stock. It is advised that at least one trap be maintained
-on each section of land. These should be located preferably near watering
-places and where cattle congregate, especially in the so-called "hospital
-traps," where the screw-worm-infested animals are kept for treatment.
-
-The conical-type traps as described are advised. The traps should be set
-on a board platform about 2 feet square, securely fastened to a tree or
-on a post where the trap and bait will be the least disturbed by stock or
-wild animals.
-
-During the latter half of one season over 100 gallons of flies, the vast
-majority of which were screw-worm flies, were captured in about 25 traps
-operated on a ranch in west Texas.
-
-The question of the baits best adapted for this species and other points
-in regard to the operation of the traps are briefly discussed under
-subsequent headings.
-
-
-
-
-=BAITS FOR TRAPS.=
-
-
-The problem of selecting the best bait for flies is an important one.
-In choosing a bait it should be remembered that it is largely the
-fermentation which renders the material attractive, and that baits are
-most attractive during their most active period of fermentation. As has
-been indicated, the kind of bait used should be governed by the species of
-flies the destruction of which is desired. This is most often the house
-fly.
-
-Experiments conducted indicate that a mixture of cheap cane molasses
-("black-strap") and water is among the most economical and effective baits
-for the house fly. One part of molasses is mixed with three parts of
-water. The attractiveness becomes marked on the second or third day.
-
-Sugar-beet or "stock molasses," which is very cheap, especially in regions
-where produced, when mixed in the foregoing proportions, is fairly
-attractive.
-
-On dairy farms, probably milk is the next choice as a bait to
-cane-molasses solution, considering its convenience. The curd from milk,
-with about one-half pound of brown sugar added to each pound and water
-to make it thoroughly moist, is a very good bait and continues to be
-attractive for 10 days or more if kept moist. A mash of bran made quite
-thin with a mixture of equal parts of water and milk and with a few
-tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and cornstarch and a yeast cake added makes
-an attractive and lasting bait. During hot weather stirring the old bait
-or adding fresh is a daily necessity if best results are to be secured.
-
-Sirup made by dissolving 1 part of ordinary brown sugar in 4 parts
-of water and allowing the mixture to stand a day or two to induce
-fermentation is almost equal to the molasses and water as a fly bait. If
-it is desirable to use the sirup immediately after making it, a small
-amount of vinegar should be added. Honeybees are sometimes caught in
-large numbers at this bait. When this happens some of the other baits
-recommended should be used.
-
-With the baits before mentioned comparatively few blowflies will be
-caught. For use about slaughterhouses, butcher shops, and other places
-where blowflies are troublesome, it has been determined that the mucous
-membranes which form the lining of the intestines of cattle or hogs are
-without equal as a bait. This material, which is commonly spoken of as
-"gut slime," can be obtained from packing houses where sausage casings are
-prepared. The offensive odor of this bait renders its use undesirable very
-near habitations or materials intended for human consumption.
-
-For use under range conditions experiments are underway with dried gut
-slime. This material is giving satisfaction as a screw-worm fly attractant
-and is easily carried, being in a highly concentrated form. The flaky
-material is placed in the bait pans and water added at the rate of 1 part
-slime to 10 or 20 parts water, after which the mixture is thoroughly
-stirred.
-
-Another packing-house product known as blood tankage is a good fly bait
-when used with molasses and water. This combination results in the capture
-of a large percentage of house flies. Where these materials are not
-obtainable fairly good catches will result from the use of fish scraps
-or meat scraps. With any of these baits the catches will be found not to
-be entirely meat-infesting flies, as actual counts have shown that the
-percentage of house flies in traps over such baits ranges from 45 to 75.
-
-Overripe or fermenting fruit, such as watermelon rinds or crushed
-bananas, placed in the bait pans sometimes gives satisfactory results.
-A combination of overripe bananas with milk is much more attractive than
-either one used separately. A considerable number of blowflies as well as
-house flies are attracted to such baits.
-
-
-
-
-=BAIT CONTAINERS.=
-
-
-The size of the bait container in relation to the size of the trap is
-a very important consideration. It has been found that a small pan
-or deep pan of bait set in the center under a trap will catch only a
-small fraction of the number of flies secured by using larger, shallow
-containers. The best and most convenient pan for baits is a shallow
-circular tin, such as the cover of a lard bucket. Under range conditions
-it is advisable to use a more substantial bait pan and preferably one 1½
-inches deep, so that a greater amount of bait may be used, thus preventing
-complete drying out between visits to the trap. Its diameter should be
-about 4 inches less than that of the base of the trap, thus bringing the
-edge within 2 inches of the outside edge of the trap. For liquid baits
-the catch can be increased slightly by placing a piece of sponge or a few
-chips in the center of the bait pan to provide additional surface upon
-which the flies may alight. The same kind of pans for bait may be used
-under tent traps. Two or more pans should be used, according to the length
-of the trap.
-
-
-
-
-=CARE AND LOCATION OF TRAPS.=
-
-
-In many cases flytrapping has been rendered ineffectual by the fact that
-the traps were not properly cared for. In setting traps a location should
-be chosen where flies naturally congregate. This is usually on the sunny
-side of a building out of the wind. It is exceedingly important that the
-bait containers be kept well filled. This usually requires attention
-every other day. The bait pans should be washed out at rather frequent
-intervals. This gives a larger catch and avoids the danger of flies
-breeding in the material used for bait. Further, it should be borne in
-mind that traps can not be operated successfully throughout the season
-without emptying them. Where flies are abundant and the bait pans are
-properly attended to the traps should be emptied at weekly intervals.
-Where flies become piled high against the side of the cone the catching
-power of the trap is considerably reduced. The destruction of the flies
-is best accomplished by immersing the trap in hot water or, still better,
-where a tight barrel is at hand place a few live coals in a pan on the
-ground, scatter two tablespoonfuls of sulphur over them, place the trap
-over the coals, and turn the barrel over the trap. All of the flies will
-be rendered motionless in about five minutes. They may then be killed
-by using hot water, throwing them into a fire, or burying them. In the
-operation of flytraps in controlling the screw-worm it has not been found
-necessary, especially during hot weather, to kill the flies, as they die
-very rapidly within the traps. In order to empty a trap it may be inverted
-and the dead flies shaken down. As the living flies will naturally go
-upward, the door may then be removed and the dead flies shaken out, the
-door replaced, and the trap set upright without loss of many of the living
-flies.
-
-
-
-
-=STICKY FLY PAPERS.=
-
-
-Sticky fly papers are of some value in destroying flies which have
-gained access to houses, but they have marked limitations and numerous
-objectionable features. For use out of doors traps are much more effective
-and economical.
-
-Dr. Crumbine, of the Kansas State Board of Health, gives the following
-method for preparing fly paper:
-
-"Take 2 pounds of rosin and 1 pint of castor oil, heat together until it
-looks like molasses. Take an ordinary paint brush and smear while hot on
-any kind of paper--an old newspaper is good--and place several about the
-room. A dozen of these may be made at a cost of 1 cent."
-
-
-
-
-=POISONED BAITS.=
-
-
-The question of destruction of flies with poisons is somewhat out of place
-here, but the close relationship of poisoned baits to trapping warrants a
-brief statement.
-
-Probably the best poisoned bait for house flies is formaldehyde in milk
-used at the rate of about two teaspoonfuls of formaldehyde to a pint of a
-mixture of equal parts of milk and water. This is placed in flat dishes
-in places frequented by flies. A piece of bread or a sponge in the dish
-adds to the effectiveness. Brown sugar or molasses and water with 2½ per
-cent formaldehyde (commercial, 40 per cent solution) added will probably
-also give satisfactory results. As far as possible other liquids should be
-removed when poisoned baits are exposed.
-
-The use of poison solutions, especially arsenical solution in tubs
-containing portions of animal carcasses, has been tried and advocated
-against the screw-worm by a number of stockmen. A comparatively weak
-poison solution--about 1 gallon of dip, diluted for use on cattle, to 7
-gallons of water--is sufficient. Best results usually have been secured
-where a considerable portion of the animal matter was allowed to protrude
-from the poison solution, as there is a tendency for the solution
-to harden the bait and prevent its decomposition, thus reducing its
-attraction for flies.
-
-
-=CAUTION.=
-
-=It should be borne in mind that formaldehyde, 40 per cent, is poison
-about in the same proportion as wood alcohol, if taken internally. It
-should not be inhaled, nor should the eyes be unduly exposed to it.
-Special pains should be taken to prevent children from drinking poisoned
-baits and to prevent the poisoned flies from dropping into foods or
-drinks. Arsenical solutions, as is well known, are extremely poisonous to
-man and animals. Care should be taken to protect the poisoned baits from
-lire stock and it is not advisable to have the baits close to barnyards
-where fowls are kept, as they may be poisoned by eating the dead flies.=
-
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-
-Transcriber Note
-
-Minor typos have been corrected. Illustrations were moved to prevent
-splitting paragraphs. Produced from files generously made available by
-USDA through The Internet Archive. All resultant materials are placed in
-the Public Domain.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734:
-Flytraps and Their Operation (1921), by F. C. Bishopp
-
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-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: Flytraps
-and Their Operation (1921), by F. C. Bishopp
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734: Flytraps and Their Operation (1921)
-
-Author: F. C. Bishopp
-
-Release Date: September 18, 2020 [EBook #63226]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA FARMERS' BULLETIN ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Tom Cosmas from files generously made available
-by USDA through The Internet Archive. All resultant
-materials are placed in the Public Domain.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<div class="fig_center" style="width: 258px;">
-<img src="images/cover.png" width="258" height="420" alt="USDA Farmers' Bulletin 734: Flytraps and Their Operation, by F. C. Bishopp" />
-</div>
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[ 1 ]</a></span></p>
-
-<div style="width: 30em; padding: 2em; margin: 1em auto;">
-<div class="bbox2">
-<h1>FLYTRAPS AND THEIR OPERATION</h1>
-
-
-<h2>F. C. BISHOPP</h2>
-
-<p class="tdc smaller pmb2">Entomologist, Investigations of Insects Affecting the<br />
-Health of Animals</p>
-
-
-<div class="fig_center" style="width: 90px;">
-<img src="images/logo.png" width="90" height="124" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-
-<p class="caption3nb">FARMERS' BULLETIN 734</p>
-
-<p class="caption4nb">UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE</p>
-
-<hr class="r20" />
-
-<p class="tdc pmb4">Contribution from the Bureau of Entomology<br />
-L. O. HOWARD, Chief</p>
-
-
-<table style="width: 100%" summary="data">
-<tr>
-  <td><div class="tdl">Washington, D. C.</div></td>
-  <td><div class="tdr">Issued June 10, 1916; second revision, March, 1921.</div></td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-<p class="bdt p0">Show this bulletin to a neighbor. Additional copies may be obtained free from the
-Division of Publications, United States Department of Agriculture</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="tdr smaller">
-WASHINGTON : GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1921
-</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[ 2 ]</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="bbox" style="width: 25em; padding: 2em; margin: 1em auto;">
-<p class="p0"><span class="dropcap">R</span>ESULTS obtained in experiments with the use of
-chemicals against fly larv&aelig; in manure are presented
-in Bulletins Nos. 118, 245, and 408 of the Department
-of Agriculture. The biology of the house
-fly and the various methods of control are discussed
-in Farmers' Bulletin 851.</p>
-
-<p>This bulletin is intended to give directions for the
-use of a supplementary means of controlling flies.
-It is adapted to all parts of the United States.</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[ 3 ]</a></span></p>
-
-
-
-<h1 class="pmt4 pmb4">FLYTRAPS AND THEIR OPERATION.</h1>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</a></h2>
-
-
-<table class="tblcont" summary="TOC">
-<tr>
-  <td></td>
-  <td class="tdr smaller">Page.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Uses and limitations of flytraps</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#USES_AND_LIMITATIONS_OF_FLYTRAPS">3</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Kinds of flies caught</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#KINDS_OF_FLIES_CAUGHT">3</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Types of traps</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#TYPES_OF_TRAPS">4</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Trapping the screw-worm fly</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#TRAPPING_THE_SCREW-WORM_FLY5">13</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Baits for traps</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#BAITS_FOR_TRAPS">13</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Bait containers</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#BAIT_CONTAINERS">15</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Care and location of traps</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#CARE_AND_LOCATION_OF_TRAPS">15</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Sticky fly papers</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#STICKY_FLY_PAPERS">16</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl">Poisoned baits</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#POISONED_BAITS">16</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-  <td class="tdl2">Caution</td>
-  <td class="tdr"><a href="#CAUTION">16</a></td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="USES_AND_LIMITATIONS_OF_FLYTRAPS" id="USES_AND_LIMITATIONS_OF_FLYTRAPS">USES AND LIMITATIONS OF FLYTRAPS.</a></h2>
-
-
-<p class="p0"><span class="dropcap">F</span>LYTRAPS have a distinct place in the control of the house fly
-and other noxious fly species. There is a general tendency, however,
-for those engaged in combating flies to put too much dependence
-on the flytrap as a method of abating the nuisance. It should be
-borne in mind that flytrapping is only supplementary to other
-methods of control, most notable of which is the prevention of breeding
-either by completely disposing of breeding places or by treating
-the breeding material with chemicals.</p>
-
-<p>It may be said that there are two main ways in which flytraps are
-valuable: (1) By catching flies which come to clean premises from
-other places which are insanitary and (2) by capturing those flies
-which invariably escape in greater or less numbers the other means of
-destruction which may be practiced. Furthermore, the number of
-flies caught in traps serves as an index of the effectiveness of campaigns
-against breeding places.</p>
-
-<p><i>Flytrapping should begin early in the spring if it is to be of
-greatest value.</i> Although comparatively few flies are caught in the
-early spring, their destruction means the prevention of the development
-of myriads of flies by midsummer.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="KINDS_OF_FLIES_CAUGHT" id="KINDS_OF_FLIES_CAUGHT">KINDS OF FLIES CAUGHT.</a></h2>
-
-
-<p>The various species of flies which are commonly annoying about
-habitations or where foodstuffs are being prepared may be divided
-roughly into two classes: (1) Those which breed in animal matter,
-consisting mainly of the so-called blowflies, including the screw-worm
-fly;<a name="FNanchor_1" id="FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and (2) those which breed in vegetable as well as in animal matter.
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[ 4 ]</a></span>
-In the latter group the house fly<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> is by far the most important.
-The stable fly is strictly a vegetable breeder, as are also certain other
-species which occasionally come into houses and in rare cases may
-contaminate foodstuffs. The stable fly,<a name="FNanchor_3" id="FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> which breeds in cow manure
-or decaying vegetable matter, and the horn fly,<a name="FNanchor_4" id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> which breeds in
-manure, are blood-sucking species, and can be caught in ordinary
-flytraps in comparatively small numbers only. The kind of flies
-caught depends to a considerable extent on the material used for
-bait. In general the house fly and other species which breed in
-vegetable matter are attracted to vegetable substances, while the blowflies
-will come most readily to animal matter. This rule, of course,
-is not absolute, as flies are less restricted in feeding than in breeding
-habits, and, as is well known, the house fly is attracted to a greater
-or less extent to any moist material, especially if it has an odor.</p>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <i>Chrysomyia macellaria</i> Pab.</p>
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <i>Musca domestica</i> L.</p>
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <i>Stomoxys calcitrans</i> L.</p>
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> <i>Lyperosia irritans</i> L.</p></div>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="TYPES_OF_TRAPS" id="TYPES_OF_TRAPS">TYPES OF TRAPS.</a></h2>
-
-
-<p>The same general principle is involved in nearly all flytraps in use,
-though superficially they may appear quite different. The flies are
-attracted into a cage, as it were, by going through a passage the
-entrance of which is large and the exit small, so that there is little
-chance of the flies, once in, finding their way out again. This principle
-is modified to fit different conditions. For instance, the window
-trap, devised by Prof. C. F. Hodge, catches the flies as they
-endeavor to enter or leave a building; the garbage-can trap, for
-which Prof. Hodge is also to be credited, catches the flies that have
-entered garbage cans; and the manure-box trap retains the flies bred
-from infested manure put into the box.</p>
-
-<p>The attractant used to induce flies to enter traps may consist of
-(1) food, as in baited traps; (2) odors, as in window traps placed in
-windows from which odors are emitted; and (3) light, as in traps
-on manure boxes. Of course, light is an important factor in the success
-of all traps, for, as is well known, flies have a marked tendency
-to go toward the light, and they usually enter the trap by flying
-toward the light after having been attracted beneath it by bait or
-after entering a room in search of food.</p>
-
-
-<h3>CONICAL TRAPS.</h3>
-
-<p>A number of traps of this general type are on the market, but most
-of these are of small size. Nearly all are constructed with a dome
-instead of a cone, and on this account the catching power is reduced
-about one-third. Moreover, the farmer, dairyman, or anyone with a
-few tools can construct traps at a small fraction of the sale price of
-ready-made ones.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[ 5 ]</a></span></p>
-
-<h3>THE CONICAL HOOP TRAP.</h3>
-
-<p>A trap which appears from extensive tests made by Mr. E. W.
-Laake and the author to be best for effective trapping, durability,
-ease of construction and repair, and cheapness may be made as follows:</p>
-
-<div class="fig_right" style="width: 305px;"><a id="fig1"></a>
-<img src="images/fig1.png" width="305" height="391" alt="" />
-<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>&mdash;Conical hoop flytrap, side view. <i>A</i>, Hoops
-forming frame at bottom. <i>B</i>, Hoops forming frame at top.
-<i>C</i>, Top of trap made of barrel head. <i>D</i>, Strips around
-door. <i>E</i>, Door frame. <i>F</i>, Screen on door. <i>G</i>, Buttons
-holding door. <i>H</i>, Screen on outside of trap. <i>I</i>, Strips on
-side of trap between hoops. <i>J</i>, Tips of these strips projecting
-to form legs, <i>K</i>. Cone. <i>L</i>, United edges of screen
-forming cone. <i>M</i>, Aperture at apex of cone.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The trap consists essentially of a screen cylinder with a frame
-made of barrel hoops, in the bottom of which is inserted a screen
-cone. The height of the cylinder is 24 inches, the diameter 18
-inches, and the cone is
-22 inches high, and 18
-inches in diameter at
-the base. Material
-necessary for this trap
-consists of four new or
-secondhand wooden
-barrel hoops, one barrel head, four laths,
-10 feet of strips 1 to
-1&frac12; inches wide by one-half inch thick (portions of old boxes will
-suffice), 61 linear
-inches of 12 or 14 mesh
-galvanized screening
-24 inches wide for the
-sides of the trap and
-41 inches of screening
-26 inches wide for the
-cone and door, an
-ounce of carpet tacks,
-and two turn-buttons,
-which may be made of
-wood. The total cost
-of the material for this
-trap, if all is bought
-new at retail prices, is
-about $1. In practically
-all cases, however, the barrel hoops, barrel head, lath, and strips
-can be obtained without expense. This would reduce the cost to that
-of the wire and tacks, which would be 80 cents. If a larger number
-of traps are constructed at one time, the cost is considerably reduced.</p>
-
-<p>One of these traps is illustrated in figures <a href="#fig1">1</a> and <a href="#fig2">2</a>. In constructing
-the trap two of the hoops are bent in a circle (18 inches in diameter
-on the inside), and nailed together, the ends being trimmed to give
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[ 6 ]</a></span>
-a close fit. These form the bottom of the frame (<i>A</i>), and the other
-two, prepared in a similar way, the top (<i>B</i>). The top (<i>C</i>) of the
-trap is made of an ordinary barrel head with the bevel edge sawed
-off sufficiently to cause the head to fit closely in the hoops and allow
-secure nailing. A square, 10 inches on the side, is cut out of the center
-of the top to form a door. The portions of the top (barrel head)
-are held together by inch strips (<i>D</i>) placed around the opening one-half
-inch from the edge to form a jamb for the door. The door consists
-of a narrow frame (<i>E</i>) covered with screen (<i>F</i>) well fitted to
-the trap and held in place (not hinged) by buttons (<i>G</i>). The top
-is then nailed in the upper hoops and the sides (<i>H</i>) formed by closely
-tacking screen wire on the outside of the hoops. Four laths (<i>I</i>) (or
-light strips) are nailed to the hoops on the outside of the trap to
-act as supports between the hoops, and the ends are allowed to project
-1 inch at the bottom to form legs (<i>J</i>). The cone (<i>K</i>) is cut from
-the screen and either sewed with fine wire or soldered where the
-edges meet at (<i>L</i>), or a narrow lath may be nailed along these edges.
-The apex of the cone is then cut off to give an aperture (<i>M</i>) 1 inch
-in diameter. It is then inserted in the trap and closely tacked to the
-hoop around the base.</p>
-
-<div class="fig_center" style="width: 457px;"><a id="fig2"></a>
-<img src="images/fig2.png" width="457" height="404" alt="" />
-<div class="fig_caption"><p><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>&mdash;Conical hoop flytrap, top view. Letters designate parts as in figure 1.]</p></div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[ 7 ]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>The construction of a cone of any given height or diameter is
-quite simple if the following method be observed. It is best to cut
-a pattern from a large piece of heavy paper, cardboard, or tin,
-<a href="#fig3">Figure 3</a> illustrates the method of laying out a cone of the proper
-dimensions for the above trap. An ordinary square is placed on
-the material from which the pattern is to be cut; a distance (22
-inches) equal to the height of the cone is laid off on one leg of the
-square at <i>A</i>, and a distance (9 inches) equal to one-half of the
-diameter of the base of the cone is laid off on the other leg at <i>B</i>,
-and a line is drawn between the points <i>A</i> and <i>B</i>. With the distance
-between these points as a radius and with the point <i>A</i> as a center,
-the portion of a circle, <i>C D</i>, is drawn. With a pair of dividers, the
-legs of which are set 1 inch apart, or with the square, lay off as many
-inches on the arc <i>C D</i>, starting at <i>C</i>, as there are inches around the
-base of the cone, which in this case is about 56&frac12; inches, reaching
-nearly to the point <i>E</i>. Then add one-half inch for the lapping of
-the edges of the cone, and one-half inch which is taken up when the
-cone is tacked in, thus making a total distance from <i>C</i> to <i>E</i> of 57&frac12;
-inches. Draw a line from <i>A</i> to <i>C</i> and another from <i>A</i> to <i>E</i>, and cut
-out the pattern on these lines and on the arc from <i>C</i> to as shown
-in figure 3. The edges <i>AC</i> and <i>AE</i> are then brought together, lapped
-one-half inch, and sewed with wire or soldered. After the aperture
-of the cone is formed by cutting off the apex, as previously described,
-it is ready for insertion in the trap.</p>
-
-<div class="fig_center" style="width: 458px;"><a id="fig3"></a>
-<img src="images/fig3.png" width="458" height="302" alt="" />
-<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span>&mdash;Method of laying out a pattern for the construction of a cone. Cut out on
-curved line <i>C</i> to <i>E</i> and on dotted lines from <i>A</i> to <i>C</i> and <i>A</i> to <i>E</i>.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[ 8 ]</a></span></p>
-
-<p>In order to figure the distance around the base of a cone of any
-given diameter multiply the diameter by 3.1416 or 3<sup>1</sup>&#8260;<sub>7</sub>.</p>
-
-<p>The height of the legs of the trap, the height of the cone, and the
-size of the aperture in the top of the cone, each are of importance
-in securing the greatest efficiency.</p>
-
-
-<h3>OTHER FORMS OF CONICAL TRAPS.</h3>
-
-<p>A modification of the previously described trap has been made by
-Mr. D. C. Parman of the Bureau of Entomology. The principal
-point of advantage in this type is that it can be made more quickly
-and with fewer tools. The principles and dimensions are the same,
-the most striking difference being the absence of a wooden top. A
-single hoop with the
-thick edge down
-forms the upper
-frame of the cylinder
-and the entire top is
-made of screen. A
-circular piece of
-screen with a diameter
-about 3 inches greater
-than the diameter of
-the cylinder is cut; a
-hoop with a diameter
-equal to the inside of
-the top of the trap is
-then made of heavy
-wire and laid upon
-the disk of screen and
-the edges of the screen
-bent in over it. By
-folding in and crimping
-the edges of the
-wire over the wire
-hoop it will remain in position without difficulty and the edges of the
-screen disk are used to lift the top of the trap out for emptying flies. It
-is important to have the screen top fit the inside of the cylinder very
-snugly at all points. If there is any space left where flies can escape
-it is a good plan to bind the edge of the top with a strip of burlap.
-This not only helps to close the openings but keeps the hoop in place
-and aids in removing the top. Another difference is that the screen
-forming the sides of the cylinder is placed on the inside of the hoops
-and legs, the frame being built first and then the cylinder formed by
-tacking the wire on the inside of the hoops and nailing in along the
-upright strips and against the wire short pieces of laths with their
-upper ends against the lower edge of the hoop forming the top of
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[ 9 ]</a></span>
-the trap and extending downward along the legs about two-thirds
-of their length. These strips hold the wire in place and give
-rigidity to the trap, and they are thick enough to project beyond the
-inner surface of the hoop and form a support upon which the edges
-of the screen top rest.</p>
-
-<p>Conical traps with steel frames are satisfactory, but they are less
-easily rescreened. These, of course, can be constructed only by shops
-with considerable equipment. Traps constructed with a wooden disk
-about the base of the cone, and a similar disk around the top to
-serve as a frame, or those with a square wooden frame at the bottom
-and top, with strips up the corners, are fairly satisfactory. It should
-be borne in mind that the factor which determines the number of flies
-caught is the diameter of the base of the cone, if other things are
-equal. Therefore the space taken up by the wooden framework is
-largely wasted, and if it is too wide it will have a deterrent effect on
-the flies which come toward the bait. For this reason it is advisable
-that the wood around the base of the cone should be as narrow as consistent
-with strength&mdash;usually about 3 inches.</p>
-
-<p><i>Under no condition should the sides or top of the trap be of solid
-material</i>, as the elimination of light from the top or sides has been
-found to decrease the catch from 50 to 75 per cent.</p>
-
-<div class="fig_left" style="width: 307px;"><a id="fig4"></a>
-<img src="images/fig4.png" width="307" height="320" alt="" />
-<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span>&mdash;Tent flytrap. When the trap is set up the screen
-box. <i>A</i>, fits on the base, <i>B</i>, and two pans of bait are
-placed beneath the tent. <i>C</i>, Hole in screen at apex of tent.</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>TENT TRAPS.</h3>
-
-<p>The tent form of trap has been widely advocated in this country,
-but recent experiments indicate that it is much less efficient than the
-cone trap, and usually as difficult to construct and almost as expensive.
-The size of these traps may vary considerably, but one constructed
-according to the dimensions given in <a href="#fig4">figure 4</a> will be found
-most convenient. The height of the tent should be about equal to
-the width of the base, and the holes (<i>C</i>) along the apex of the tent
-should be one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter and 1
-inch apart. The box (<i>A</i>) should be provided with hooks to pass
-through the eyes on the base (<i>B</i>). Small blocks 1 inch thick are
-nailed beneath the corners of the tent frame to serve as legs.</p>
-
-
-<h3>GARBAGE-CAN TRAPS.</h3>
-
-<p>As previously mentioned. Prof. Hodge has adapted the cone trap
-to use on the lids of garbage cans. It is not advisable to use this
-trap except where garbage cans are sufficiently open to admit flies.
-In such cases a hole may be cut in the lid of the can and one of the
-small balloon traps which are obtainable on the market attached
-over the hole. To make the trap effective the edges of this lid should
-extend well down over the top of the can. The lid should be held
-up slightly so as to allow the flies to pass under, but not high enough
-to admit direct light. Practically speaking, the garbage forms the
-bait for this trap, and when inside the can the flies are attracted to
-the light admitted through the trap. It is really advisable to have the
-garbage cans fly proof, so as to prevent danger of fly breeding within
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[ 10 ]</a></span>
-them rather than to depend on traps on the lids, which necessarily
-allow odors to escape. A garbage can with a trap attached is illustrated
-in <a href="#fig5">figure 5</a>.</p>
-
-<div class="fig_left" style="width: 268px;"><a id="fig5"></a>
-<img src="images/fig5.png" width="268" height="283" alt="" />
-<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 5.</span>&mdash;Top of garbage can with small balloon
-flytrap attached.</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>MANURE-BOX TRAPS.</h3>
-
-<p>Manure pits or boxes are desirable for the temporary storage of
-manure, especially in towns and cities. These have been widely
-advocated, but the difficulty has been that manure often becomes
-infested before it is put into them, and flies frequently breed out
-before the boxes are emptied and often escape through the cracks.
-To obviate these difficulties a manure box or pit, with a modified tent
-trap or cone trap attached, is desirable. Mr. Arthur Swaim, of Florida,
-has devised a form of manure trap consisting of a series of screen
-tents with exit holes along
-the ridges of these, over
-which is a screen box. The
-latter retains the flies as
-they pass through the holes
-in the tents. The entire
-trap is removable.</p>
-
-<p>In order to retain the
-fertilizing value of manure
-to the greatest extent it is
-advisable to exclude the air
-from it as much as possible
-and to protect it from the
-leaching action of rains.
-This being the case, there
-is really no necessity to
-cover a large portion of the
-top of the box with a trap,
-but merely to have holes
-large enough to attract flies
-to the light, and cover these holes with ordinary conical traps, with
-the legs cut off, so the bottom of the trap will fit closely to the box.
-The same arrangement can be made where manure is kept in a pit.
-In large bins two or more holes covered with traps should be provided
-for the escape of the flies.</p>
-
-<p>Manure boxes should be used by all stock owners in towns and
-cities, and they are also adaptable to farms. The size of the manure
-bin should be governed by the individual needs, but for use on the
-farm it is desirable to make it large enough to hold all of the manure
-produced during the busiest season of the year. A box 14 feet long,
-10 feet wide, and 4 feet deep will hold the manure produced by two
-horses during about five months. About 2 cubic feet of box space
-should be allowed for each horse per day. The bin should be made
-of concrete or heavy plank. When the latter is used the cracks should
-be battened to prevent the escape of flies. The bin may have a floor
-or it may be set in the ground several inches and the dirt closely
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[ 11 ]</a></span>
-banked around the outside. For the admission of the manure a good-sized
-door should be provided in either end of a large bin. A portion
-of the top should be made easily removable for convenience in emptying
-the box, or one entire end of the box may be hinged. On account
-of the danger of the door being left open through carelessness, it is
-advisable to arrange a lift door which can be opened by placing the
-foot on a treadle as the manure is shoveled in. The door should be
-heavy enough to close automatically when the treadle is released. A
-manure bin with flytrap attached is shown in <a href="#fig6">figure 6</a>.</p>
-
-<div class="fig_center" style="width: 458px;"><a id="fig6"></a>
-<img src="images/fig6.png" width="458" height="375" alt="" />
-<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 6.</span>&mdash;Use of flytrap in connection with manure bin. <i>A</i>, Block of wood set in ground
-to which lever raising door is hinged.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Attention is directed to a maggot trap devised by Mr. R. H.
-Hutchison, as described in Farmers' Bulletin 851 of the Department
-of Agriculture. Where large quantities of manure are produced on a
-farm this method of storing the manure on a platform and trapping
-the maggots which breed out may be more convenient than the
-manure bin.</p>
-
-
-<h3>WINDOW TRAPS.</h3>
-
-<p>Prof. C. F. Hodge has designed a trap which is really a modified
-tent trap adapted to use in a window. This trap is constructed so
-as to catch the flies as they enter or leave through the window. It
-is adaptable to barns which are fairly free from cracks or other places
-where flies may enter. It may also be used on windows of buildings
-where foodstuffs are prepared and where flies endeavor to enter
-through the windows or escape after having gained entrance through
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[ 12 ]</a></span>
-other passageways. All openings not provided with traps should be
-closely screened, and on large buildings traps may be installed in
-every third window.</p>
-
-<div class="fig_center" style="width: 460px;"><a id="fig7"></a>
-<img src="images/fig7.png" width="460" height="320" alt="" />
-<div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 7.</span>&mdash;Hodge type window trap. At left, trap with end removed to show construction;
-at right, cross section of trap placed in a window. <i>A</i>, End of trap. <i>B</i>, Upper side of
-folds in screen. <i>C</i>, Lower side of folds in screen. <i>D</i>, Portion of end of trap sawed out
-and returned after attaching screen. <i>E</i>, Holes along apex of folds. <i>F</i>, Door for removing
-dead flies. <i>G</i>, Window sill. <i>H</i>, Upper window sash. <i>I</i>, Inside entrance for flies.
-<i>O</i>, Outside entrances.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>This trap is essentially a screen box closely fitted to the frame of
-a window (see <a href="#fig7">fig. 7</a>). The thickness of the box at <i>A</i> should be about
-12 inches. Instead of the screen running straight down over the box
-on either side it is folded inward nearly to the center of the frame
-in <b>V</b>-shaped folds running longitudinally across the window. One,
-two, or even more folds may be made in the screen on either side.
-The upper side of the fold <i>B</i> should extend toward the center almost
-at right angles with the side of the trap&mdash;that is, parallel with the
-top and bottom; and the lower side <i>C</i> should slant downward as
-shown in the drawing. The sides of the frame may be cut out at
-the proper angle and the pieces <i>D</i> returned after the screen has been
-tacked along the edges. Along the apex (inner edge) of each fold is
-punched a series of holes <i>E</i> about one-half inch in diameter and 1 inch
-apart. The apices of the folds on either side of the window should
-not be directly opposite. A narrow door <i>F</i> opening downward on
-hinges should be made on one side of the trap at the bottom for
-removal of the dead flies. The entire trap is fastened to the window
-by hooks so that it may be readily taken off. An additional
-trapping feature may be added by providing a tent trap fitted in the
-bottom of the box. A narrow slit is left along the base to allow the
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[ 13 ]</a></span>
-flies to enter beneath the tent. Bait may be placed under the tent to
-attract the flies.</p>
-
-<p>It has been found that the use of these window traps will aid in
-protecting animals in barns from stable flies and mosquitoes, and in
-some cases horseflies and other noxious species are caught. They tend
-to exclude the light, however, and are somewhat cumbersome, especially
-in thin-walled buildings.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="TRAPPING_THE_SCREW-WORM_FLY5" id="TRAPPING_THE_SCREW-WORM_FLY5">TRAPPING THE SCREW-WORM FLY.</a><a name="FNanchor_5" id="FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></h2>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> <i>Chrysomyia macellaria</i> Fab.</p></div>
-
-
-<p>Recent efforts to reduce the loss to the live-stock industry of the
-Southwest resulting from the ravages of the screw-worm have directed
-attention to the employment of flytraps in this work.</p>
-
-<p>Mention has been made of the importance of preventing the breeding
-of flies as a prerequisite to effective control. This is equally true
-of the screw-worm and other blowflies, which attack animals, and of
-the house fly. In the case of these blowflies main dependence must
-be placed on the complete and prompt burning of all carcasses and
-animal refuse.</p>
-
-<p>Experiments conducted in the range sections of Texas indicate
-that traps properly baited and set are of material aid in preventing
-screw-worm injury to live stock. It is advised that at least one trap
-be maintained on each section of land. These should be located preferably
-near watering places and where cattle congregate, especially
-in the so-called "hospital traps," where the screw-worm-infested
-animals are kept for treatment.</p>
-
-<p>The conical-type traps as described are advised. The traps should
-be set on a board platform about 2 feet square, securely fastened to a
-tree or on a post where the trap and bait will be the least disturbed
-by stock or wild animals.</p>
-
-<p>During the latter half of one season over 100 gallons of flies, the
-vast majority of which were screw-worm flies, were captured in
-about 25 traps operated on a ranch in west Texas.</p>
-
-<p>The question of the baits best adapted for this species and other
-points in regard to the operation of the traps are briefly discussed
-under subsequent headings.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="BAITS_FOR_TRAPS" id="BAITS_FOR_TRAPS">BAITS FOR TRAPS.</a></h2>
-
-
-<p>The problem of selecting the best bait for flies is an important
-one. In choosing a bait it should be remembered that it is largely
-the fermentation which renders the material attractive, and that
-baits are most attractive during their most active period of fermentation.
-As has been indicated, the kind of bait used should be governed
-by the species of flies the destruction of which is desired. This
-is most often the house fly.</p>
-
-<p>Experiments conducted indicate that a mixture of cheap cane
-molasses ("black-strap") and water is among the most economical
-and effective baits for the house fly. One part of molasses is mixed
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[ 14 ]</a></span>
-with three parts of water. The attractiveness becomes marked on the
-second or third day.</p>
-
-<p>Sugar-beet or "stock molasses," which is very cheap, especially
-in regions where produced, when mixed in the foregoing proportions,
-is fairly attractive.</p>
-
-<p>On dairy farms, probably milk is the next choice as a bait to cane-molasses
-solution, considering its convenience. The curd from milk,
-with about one-half pound of brown sugar added to each pound and
-water to make it thoroughly moist, is a very good bait and continues
-to be attractive for 10 days or more if kept moist. A mash of bran
-made quite thin with a mixture of equal parts of water and milk
-and with a few tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and cornstarch and a
-yeast cake added makes an attractive and lasting bait. During hot
-weather stirring the old bait or adding fresh is a daily necessity if
-best results are to be secured.</p>
-
-<p>Sirup made by dissolving 1 part of ordinary brown sugar in 4 parts
-of water and allowing the mixture to stand a day or two to induce
-fermentation is almost equal to the molasses and water as a fly bait.
-If it is desirable to use the sirup immediately after making it, a small
-amount of vinegar should be added. Honeybees are sometimes
-caught in large numbers at this bait. When this happens some of
-the other baits recommended should be used.</p>
-
-<p>With the baits before mentioned comparatively few blowflies will
-be caught. For use about slaughterhouses, butcher shops, and other
-places where blowflies are troublesome, it has been determined that
-the mucous membranes which form the lining of the intestines of
-cattle or hogs are without equal as a bait. This material, which is
-commonly spoken of as "gut slime," can be obtained from packing
-houses where sausage casings are prepared. The offensive odor of
-this bait renders its use undesirable very near habitations or materials
-intended for human consumption.</p>
-
-<p>For use under range conditions experiments are underway with
-dried gut slime. This material is giving satisfaction as a screw-worm
-fly attractant and is easily carried, being in a highly concentrated
-form. The flaky material is placed in the bait pans and water added
-at the rate of 1 part slime to 10 or 20 parts water, after which the
-mixture is thoroughly stirred.</p>
-
-<p>Another packing-house product known as blood tankage is a
-good fly bait when used with molasses and water. This combination
-results in the capture of a large percentage of house flies.
-Where these materials are not obtainable fairly good catches will
-result from the use of fish scraps or meat scraps. With any of these
-baits the catches will be found not to be entirely meat-infesting flies,
-as actual counts have shown that the percentage of house flies in
-traps over such baits ranges from 45 to 75.</p>
-
-<p>Overripe or fermenting fruit, such as watermelon rinds or crushed
-bananas, placed in the bait pans sometimes gives satisfactory results.
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[ 15 ]</a></span>
-A combination of overripe bananas with milk is much more attractive
-than either one used separately. A considerable number of blowflies
-as well as house flies are attracted to such baits.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="BAIT_CONTAINERS" id="BAIT_CONTAINERS">BAIT CONTAINERS.</a></h2>
-
-
-<p>The size of the bait container in relation to the size of the trap
-is a very important consideration. It has been found that a small
-pan or deep pan of bait set in the center under a trap will catch
-only a small fraction of the number of flies secured by using larger,
-shallow containers. The best and most convenient pan for baits is
-a shallow circular tin, such as the cover of a lard bucket. Under
-range conditions it is advisable to use a more substantial bait pan
-and preferably one 1&frac12; inches deep, so that a greater amount of bait
-may be used, thus preventing complete drying out between visits to
-the trap. Its diameter should be about 4 inches less than that of the
-base of the trap, thus bringing the edge within 2 inches of the outside
-edge of the trap. For liquid baits the catch can be increased slightly
-by placing a piece of sponge or a few chips in the center of the bait
-pan to provide additional surface upon which the flies may alight.
-The same kind of pans for bait may be used under tent traps. Two
-or more pans should be used, according to the length of the trap.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="CARE_AND_LOCATION_OF_TRAPS" id="CARE_AND_LOCATION_OF_TRAPS">CARE AND LOCATION OF TRAPS.</a></h2>
-
-
-<p>In many cases flytrapping has been rendered ineffectual by the
-fact that the traps were not properly cared for. In setting traps a
-location should be chosen where flies naturally congregate. This is
-usually on the sunny side of a building out of the wind. It is exceedingly
-important that the bait containers be kept well filled. This
-usually requires attention every other day. The bait pans should
-be washed out at rather frequent intervals. This gives a larger
-catch and avoids the danger of flies breeding in the material used
-for bait. Further, it should be borne in mind that traps can not
-be operated successfully throughout the season without emptying
-them. Where flies are abundant and the bait pans are properly
-attended to the traps should be emptied at weekly intervals. Where
-flies become piled high against the side of the cone the catching
-power of the trap is considerably reduced. The destruction of the
-flies is best accomplished by immersing the trap in hot water or,
-still better, where a tight barrel is at hand place a few live coals in a
-pan on the ground, scatter two tablespoonfuls of sulphur over them,
-place the trap over the coals, and turn the barrel over the trap.
-All of the flies will be rendered motionless in about five minutes.
-They may then be killed by using hot water, throwing them into
-a fire, or burying them. In the operation of flytraps in controlling
-the screw-worm it has not been found necessary, especially during
-hot weather, to kill the flies, as they die very rapidly within the traps.
-In order to empty a trap it may be inverted and the dead flies shaken
-down. As the living flies will naturally go upward, the door may
-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[ 16 ]</a></span>
-then be removed and the dead flies shaken out, the door replaced, and
-the trap set upright without loss of many of the living flies.</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="STICKY_FLY_PAPERS" id="STICKY_FLY_PAPERS">STICKY FLY PAPERS.</a></h2>
-
-
-<p>Sticky fly papers are of some value in destroying flies which have
-gained access to houses, but they have marked limitations and numerous
-objectionable features. For use out of doors traps are much
-more effective and economical.</p>
-
-<p>Dr. Crumbine, of the Kansas State Board of Health, gives the following
-method for preparing fly paper:</p>
-
-<p>"Take 2 pounds of rosin and 1 pint of castor oil, heat together
-until it looks like molasses. Take an ordinary paint brush and
-smear while hot on any kind of paper&mdash;an old newspaper is good&mdash;and
-place several about the room. A dozen of these may be made at
-a cost of 1 cent."</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2><a name="POISONED_BAITS" id="POISONED_BAITS">POISONED BAITS.</a></h2>
-
-
-<p>The question of destruction of flies with poisons is somewhat out
-of place here, but the close relationship of poisoned baits to trapping
-warrants a brief statement.</p>
-
-<p>Probably the best poisoned bait for house flies is formaldehyde in
-milk used at the rate of about two teaspoonfuls of formaldehyde
-to a pint of a mixture of equal parts of milk and water. This is
-placed in flat dishes in places frequented by flies. A piece of bread
-or a sponge in the dish adds to the effectiveness. Brown sugar or
-molasses and water with 2&frac12; per cent formaldehyde (commercial,
-40 per cent solution) added will probably also give satisfactory results.
-As far as possible other liquids should be removed when poisoned
-baits are exposed.</p>
-
-<p>The use of poison solutions, especially arsenical solution in tubs
-containing portions of animal carcasses, has been tried and advocated
-against the screw-worm by a number of stockmen. A comparatively
-weak poison solution&mdash;about 1 gallon of dip, diluted for use on cattle,
-to 7 gallons of water&mdash;is sufficient. Best results usually have been
-secured where a considerable portion of the animal matter was
-allowed to protrude from the poison solution, as there is a tendency
-for the solution to harden the bait and prevent its decomposition,
-thus reducing its attraction for flies.</p>
-
-
-<h3><a id="CAUTION"></a>CAUTION.</h3>
-
-<p><b>It should be borne in mind that formaldehyde, 40 per cent, is poison about
-in the same proportion as wood alcohol, if taken internally. It should not be
-inhaled, nor should the eyes be unduly exposed to it. Special pains should
-be taken to prevent children from drinking poisoned baits and to prevent the
-poisoned flies from dropping into foods or drinks. Arsenical solutions, as is
-well known, are extremely poisonous to man and animals. Care should be
-taken to protect the poisoned baits from lire stock and it is not advisable
-to have the baits close to barnyards where fowls are kept, as they may be
-poisoned by eating the dead flies.</b></p>
-
-
-<hr class="full" />
-
-<div class="transnotes">
-<p class="caption3nb">Transcriber Note</p>
-
-<p>Minor typos have been corrected. Illustrations were moved to prevent
-splitting paragraphs. Produced from files generously made available by
-USDA through The Internet Archive. All resultant materials are placed in
-the Public Domain.</p>
-</div>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 734:
-Flytraps and Their Operation (1921), by F. C. Bishopp
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