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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7bd5746 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #62403 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/62403) diff --git a/old/62403-0.txt b/old/62403-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 2972762..0000000 --- a/old/62403-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3279 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches in Holland and Scandinavia, by -Augustus J. C. Hare - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Sketches in Holland and Scandinavia - -Author: Augustus J. C. Hare - -Release Date: June 15, 2020 [EBook #62403] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES IN HOLLAND AND *** - - - - -Produced by Fiona Holmes, MFR and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -Transcriber's Notes. - -The few instances of inconsistent hyphenation have been retained. -Page 100 — Changed Lubeck to Lübeck. - - - SKETCHES - IN - HOLLAND AND SCANDINAVIA - - BY - AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE - AUTHOR OF "CITIES OF ITALY," "WANDERINGS IN SPAIN," ETC. - - LONDON - GEORGE ALLEN, 156, CHARING CROSS ROAD - - LONDON - SMITH, ELDER, & CO., 15 WATERLOO PLACE - 1885 - - [_All rights reserved_] - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The slight sketches in this volume are only the result of ordinary -tours in the countries they attempt to describe. Yet the days they -recall were so delightful, and their memory—especially of the tour -in Norway—is so indescribably sunny, that I cannot help hoping their -publication may lead others to enjoy what is at once so pleasant and so -easy of attainment. - - AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE. - - HOLMHURST: _November 1884_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - - IN HOLLAND 1 - - IN DENMARK 59 - - IN SWEDEN 83 - - IN NORWAY 105 - - - - -_IN HOLLAND._ - - -At Roosendal, about an hour's railway journey from Antwerp, the -boundary between Belgium and Holland is crossed, and a branch line -diverges to Breda. - -Somehow, like most travellers, we could not help expecting to see some -marked change on reaching a new country, and in Holland one could not -repress the expectation of beginning at once to see the pictures of -Teniers and Gerard Dou in real life. We were certainly disappointed at -first. Open heaths were succeeded by woods of stunted firs, and then by -fields with thick hedges of beech or alder, till the towers of Breda -came in sight. Here a commonplace omnibus took us to the comfortable -inn of Zum Kroon, and we were shown into bedrooms reached by an open -wooden staircase from the courtyard, and quickly joined the table -d'hôte, at which the magnates of the town were seated with napkins well -tucked up under their chins, talking, with full mouths, in Dutch, of -which to our unaccustomed ears the words seemed all in one string. -Most excellent was the dinner—roast meat and pears, quantities of -delicious vegetables cooked in different ways, piles of ripe mulberries -and cake, and across the little garden, with its statues and bright -flower-beds, we could see the red sails of the barges going up and down -the canals. - -As soon as dinner was over, we sallied forth to see the town, which -impressed us more than any Dutch city did afterwards, perhaps because -it was the first we saw. The winding streets—one of them ending in a -high windmill—are lined with houses wonderfully varied in outline, -and of every shade of delicate colour, yellow, grey, or brown, though -the windows always have white frames and bars. Passing through a low -archway under one of the houses, we found ourselves, when we least -expected it, in the public garden, a kind of wood where the trees have -killed all the grass, surrounded by canals, beyond one of which is a -great square château built by William III. of England, encircled by the -Merk, and enclosing an arcaded court. There was an older château of -1350 at Breda, but we failed to find it. - -[Illustration: THE MARKET-PLACE AT BREDA.] - -In stately splendour, from the old houses of the market-place, rises -the noble Hervormde Kerk (Protestant Church), with a lofty octagon -tower, and a most characteristic bulbous Dutch spire. Here, as we -wanted to see the interior, we first were puzzled by our ignorance of -Dutch, finding, as everywhere in the smaller towns, that the natives -knew no language but their own. But two old women in high caps and -gold earrings observed our puzzledom from a window and pointed to a -man and a key—we nodded; the man pointed to himself, a door, and -a key—we nodded; and we were soon inside the building. It was our -first introduction to Dutch Calvinism and iconoclasm, and piteous -indeed was it to see so magnificent a church thickly covered with -whitewash, and the quantity of statues which it contains of deceased -Dukes and Duchesses of Nassau bereft of their legs and petticoats. -Only, in a grand side chapel on the left of the choir, the noble tomb -of Engelbrecht II. of Nassau, general under the Emperor Maximilian -(1505), remains intact. The guide lights matches to shine through the -transparent alabaster of the figures; that of the Duke represents -Death, that of the Duchess Sleep, as they lie beneath a stone slab -which bears the armour of Engelbrecht, and is supported by figures -of Cæsar, Hannibal, Regulus, and Philip of Macedon; that of Cæsar is -sublime. The tomb of Sir Francis Vere in Westminster Abbey is of the -same design, and is supposed to be copied from this famous monument. -Outside the chapel is the tomb of Engelbrecht V. of Nassau, with all -his family kneeling, in quaint headdresses. The other sights of the -church are the brass font in the Baptistery, and a noble brass in the -choir of William de Gaellen, Dean of the Chapter, 1539. It will be -observed that here, and almost everywhere else in Holland, the names -of saints which used to be attached to the churches have disappeared; -the buildings are generally known as the old church, or new church, or -great church. - -After a delicious breakfast of coffee and thick cream, with rusks, -scones, and different kinds of cheese, always an indispensable in Dutch -breakfasts, we took to the railway again and crossed Zealand, which -chiefly consists of four islands, Noordt Beveland, Zuid Beveland, -Schouwen, and Walcheren, and is less visited by the rest of the -Netherlanders than any other part of the country. The land is all -cut up into vast polders, as the huge meadows are called, which are -recovered from the sea and protected by embankments. Here, if human -care was withdrawn for six months, the whole country would be under the -sea again. A corps of engineers called 'waterstaat' are continually -employed to watch the waters, and to keep in constant repair the dykes, -which are formed of clay at the bottom, as that is more waterproof -than anything else, and thatched with willows, which are here grown -extensively for the purpose. If the sea passes a dyke, ruin is -imminent, an alarm bell rings, and the whole population rush to the -rescue. The moment one dyke is even menaced, the people begin to build -another inside it, and then rely upon the double defence, whilst they -fortify the old one. But all their care has not preserved the islands -of Zealand. Three centuries ago, Schouwen was entirely submerged, and -every living creature was drowned. Soon after, Noordt Beveland was -submerged, and remained for several years entirely under water, only -the points of the church spires being visible. Zuid Beveland had been -submerged in the fourteenth century. Walcheren was submerged as late as -1808, and Tholen even in 1825. It has been aptly asserted that the sea -to the inhabitants of Holland is what Vesuvius is to Torre del Greco. -How well its French name of Pays-Bas suits the country! De Amicis says -that the Dutch have three enemies—the sea, the lakes, and the rivers; -they repel the sea, they dry the lakes, and they imprison the rivers; -but with the sea it is a combat which never ceases. - -[Illustration: BERGEN-OP-ZOOM.] - -The story of the famous siege of 1749 made us linger at Bergen-op-Zoom, -a clean, dull little town with bright white houses surrounding an -irregular market-place, and surmounted by the heavy tower of the Church -of S. Gertrude. In the Stadhuis is a fine carved stone chimney-piece; -but there is little worth seeing, and we were soon speeding across -the rich pastures of Zuid Beveland, and passing its capital of Goes, -prettily situated amongst cherry orchards, the beautiful cruciform -church with a low central spire rising above the trees on its ramparts. -Every now and then the train seems scarcely out of the water, which -covers a vast surface of the pink-green flats, and recalls the -description in Hudibras of— - - A country that draws fifty feet of water, - In which men live as in the hold of nature, - And when the sea does in upon them break, - And drown a province, does but spring a leak. - -The peasant women at the stations are a perpetual amusement, for there -is far more costume here than in most parts of Holland, and peculiar -square handsome gold ornaments, something like closed golden books, are -universally worn on each side of the face. - -So, crossing a broad salt canal into the island of Walcheren, we -reached Middleburg, a handsome town which was covered with water to the -house tops when the island was submerged. It was the birthplace of -Zach Janssen and Hans Lipperhey, the inventors of the telescope, _c._ -1610. In the market-place is a most beautiful Gothic townhall, built -by the architect Keldermans, early in the sixteenth century. We asked -a well dressed boy how we could get into it, and he, without further -troubling himself, pointed the way with his finger. The building -contains a quaint old hall called the Vierschaar, and a so-called -museum, but there is little enough to see. As we came out the boy met -us. 'You must give me something: I pointed out the entrance of the -Stadhuis to you.' In Holland we have always found that no one, rich or -poor, does a kindness or even a civility for nothing! - -The crowd in the market-place was so great that it was impossible to -sketch the Stadhuis as we should have wished, but the people themselves -were delightfully picturesque. The women entirely conceal their hair -under their white caps, but have golden corkscrews sticking out on -either side the face, like weapons of defence, from which the golden -slabs we have observed before were pendant. The Nieuwe Kerk is of -little interest, though it contains the tomb of William of Holland, who -was elected Emperor of Germany in 1250, and we wandered on through the -quiet streets, till a Gothic arch in an ancient wall looked tempting. -Passing through it we found ourselves in the enclosure of the old -abbey, shaded by a grove of trees, and surrounded by ancient buildings, -part of which are appropriated as the Hotel Abdij, where we arrived -utterly famished, and found a table d'hôte at 2.30 P.M. unspeakably -reviving. - -Any one who sees Holland thoroughly ought also to visit Zieriksee, the -capital of the island of Schouwen; but the water locomotion thither is -so difficult and tedious that we preferred keeping to the railways, -which took us back in the dark over the country we had already -traversed, and a little more, to Dortrecht, where there is a convenient -tramway to take travellers from the station into the town. Here, at the -Hôtel de Fries, we found comfortable bedrooms, with boarded floors and -box-beds like those in Northumbrian cottages, and we had supper in the -public room, separated into two parts by a daïs for strangers, whence -we looked down into the humbler division, which recalled many homely -scenes of Ostade and Teniers in its painted wooden ceiling, its bright, -polished furniture, its cat and dog and quantity of birds and flowers, -its groups of boors at round tables drinking out of tankards, and the -landlady and her daughter in their gleaming gold ornaments, sitting -knitting, with the waiter standing behind them amusing himself by the -general conversation. - -Our morning at Dortrecht was very delightful, and it is a thoroughly -charming place. Passing under a dark archway in a picturesque building -of Charles V. opposite the hotel, we found ourselves at once on the -edge of an immense expanse of shimmering river, with long rich polders -beyond, between which the wide flood breaks into three different -branches. Red and white sails flit down them. Here and there rise a -line of pollard willows or clipped elms, and now and then a church -spire. On the nearest shore an ancient windmill, coloured in delicate -tints of grey and yellow, surmounts a group of white buildings. On the -left is a broad esplanade of brick, lined with ancient houses, and a -canal with a bridge, the long arms of which are ready to open at a -touch and give a passage to the great yellow-masted barges, which are -already half intercepting the bright red house-fronts ornamented with -stone, which belong to some public buildings facing the end of the -canal. With what a confusion of merchandise are the boats laden, and -how gay is the colouring, between the old weedy posts to which they are -moored! - -It was from hence that Isabella of France, with Sir John de Hainault -and many other faithful knights, set out on their expedition against -Edward II. and the government of the Spencers. - -From the busy port, where nevertheless they are dredging, we cross -another bridge and find ourselves in a quietude like that of a -cathedral close in England. On one side is a wide pool half covered -with floating timber, and, in the other half, reflecting like a mirror -the houses on the opposite shore, with their bright gardens of lilies -and hollyhocks, and trees of mountain ash, which bend their masses -of scarlet berries to the still water. Between the houses are glints -of blue river and of inevitable windmills on the opposite shore. And -all this we observe standing in the shadow of a huge church, the -Groote Kerk, with a nave of the fourteenth century, and a choir of -the fifteenth, and a gigantic brick tower, in which three long Gothic -arches, between octagonal tourelles, enclose several tiers of windows. -At the top is a great clock, and below the church a grove of elms, -through which fitful sunlight falls on the grass and the dead red of -the brick pavement (so grateful to feet sore with the sharp stones of -other Dutch cities), where groups of fishermen are collecting in their -blue shirts and white trousers. - -[Illustration: GROOTE KERK, DORTRECHT.] - -There is little to see inside this or any other church in Holland; -travellers will rather seek for the memorials, at the Kloveniers -Doelen, of the famous Synod of Dort, which was held 1618-19, in the -hope of effecting a compromise between the Gomarists, or disciples of -Calvin, and the Arminians who followed Zwingli, and who had recently -obtained the name of Remonstrants from the 'remonstrance' which they -had addressed eight years before in defence of their doctrines. The -Calvinists held that the greater part of mankind was excluded from -grace, which the Arminians denied; but at the Synod of Dort the -Calvinists proclaimed themselves as infallible as the Pope, and their -resolutions became the law of the Dutch reformed Church. The Arminians -were forthwith outlawed; a hundred ministers who refused to subscribe -to the dictates of the Synod were banished; Hugo Grotius and Rombout -Hoogerbeets were imprisoned for life at Loevestein; the body of the -secretary Ledenberg, who committed suicide in prison, was hung; and Van -Olden Barneveldt, the friend of William the Silent, was beheaded in his -seventy-second year. - -[Illustration: CANAL AT DORTRECHT.] - -There is nothing in the quiet streets of Dortrecht to remind one that -it was once one of the most important commercial cities of Holland, -taking precedence even of Rotterdam, Delft, Leyden, and Amsterdam. It -also possessed a privilege called the Staple of Dort, by which all the -carriers on the Maas and Rhine were forced to unload their merchandise -here, and pay all duties imposed, only using the boats or porters of -the place in their work, and so bringing a great revenue to the town. - -More than those in any of the other towns of Holland do the little -water streets of Dortrecht recall Venice, the houses rising abruptly -from the canals; only the luminous atmosphere and the shimmering water -changing colour like a chameleon, are wanting. - -Through the street of wine—Wijnstraat—built over storehouses used for -the staple, we went to the Museum to see the pictures. There were two -schools of Dortrecht. Jacob Geritse Cuyp (1575), Albert Cuyp (1605), -Ferdinand Bol (1611), Nicolas Maas (1632), and Schalken (1643) belonged -to the former; Arend de Gelder, Arnold Houbraken, Dirk Stoop, and Ary -Scheffer are of the latter. Sunshine and glow were the characteristics -of the first school, greyness and sobriety of the second. But there -are few good pictures at Dort now, and some of the best works of -Cuyp are to be found in our National Gallery, executed at his native -place and portraying the great brick tower of the church in the golden -haze of evening, seen across rich pastures, where the cows are lying -deep in the meadow grass. The works of Ary Scheffer are now the most -interesting pictures in the Dortrecht Gallery. Of the subject 'Christus -Consolator' there are two representations. In the more striking of -these the pale Christ is seated amongst the sick, sorrowful, blind, -maimed, and enslaved, who are all stretching out their hands to Him. -Beneath is the tomb which the artist executed for his mother, Cornelia -Scheffer, whose touching figure is represented lying with outstretched -hands, in the utmost abandonment of repose. - -An excursion should be made from Dortrecht to the castle of Loevestein -on the Rhine, where Grotius, imprisoned in 1619, was concealed by his -wife in the chest which brought in his books and linen. It was conveyed -safely out of the castle by her courageous maid Elsje van Houwening, -and was taken at first to the house of Jacob Daatselaer, a supposed -friend of Grotius, who refused to render any assistance. But his wife -consented to open the chest, and the philosopher, disguised as a mason, -escaped to Brabant. - -It is much best to visit Rotterdam as an excursion from Dortrecht. We -thought it the most odious place we ever were in—immense, filthy, and -not very picturesque. Its handsomest feature is the vast quay called -the Boompjes, on the Maas. Here and there a great windmill reminds you -unmistakably of where you are, and the land streets are intersected -everywhere by water streets, the carriages being constantly stopped -to let ships pass through the bridges. In the Groote Markt stands a -bronze statue of Desiderius Erasmus—'Vir saeculi sui primarius, et -civis omnium praestantissimus,' which is the work of Hendrik de Keyser -(1662), and in the Wijde Kerkstraat is the house where he was born, -inscribed 'Haec est parva domus, magnus qua natus Erasmus, 1467,' but -it is now a tavern. The great church of S. Lawrence—Groote Kerk—built -in 1477-87, contains the tombs of a number of Dutch admirals, and has -a grand pavement of monumental slabs, but is otherwise frightful. The -portion used for service is said to be 'so conveniently constructed -that the zealous Christians of Rotterdam prefer sleeping through a -sermon there, to any other church in the city.' Part of the rest is -used as a cart-house, the largest chapel is a commodious carpenter's -shop, and the aisles round the part which is still a church, where -there has been an attempt at restoration in painting the roof yellow -and putting up some hideous yellow seats, are a playground for the -children of the town, who are freely admitted in their perambulators, -though for strangers there is a separate fee for each part of the -edifice they enter. - -We went to see the pictures in the Museum bequeathed to the town by -Jacob Otto Boyman, but did not admire them much. It takes time to -accustom one's mind to Dutch art, and the endless representations -of family life, with domestic furniture, pots and pans, &c., or of -the simple local landscapes—clipped avenues, sandy roads, dykes, -and cottages, or even of the cows, and pigs, and poultry, which seem -wonderfully executed, but, where one has too much of the originals, -scarcely worth the immense amount of time and labour bestowed upon -them. The calm seas of Van de Welde and Van der Capelle only afford -a certain amount of relief. The scenes of village life are seldom -pleasing, often coarse, and never have anything elevating to offer or -ennobling to recall. We thought that the real charm of the Dutch school -to outsiders consists in the immense power and variety of its portraits. - -Hating Rotterdam, we thankfully felt ourselves speeding over the flat, -rich lands to Gouda, where we found an agricultural fête going on, -banners half way down the houses, and a triumphal arch as the entrance -to the square, formed of spades, rakes, and forks, with a plough at -the top, and decorated with corn, potatoes, turnips, and carrots, and -cornucopias pouring out flowers at the sides. In the square—a great -cheese market, for the Gouda cheese is esteemed the best in Holland—is -a Gothic Stadhuis, and beyond it, the Groote Kerk of 1552, of which the -bare interior is enlivened by the stained windows executed by Wonter -and Dirk Crabeth in 1555-57. We were the better able to understand -the design of these noble windows because the cartoon for each was -spread upon the pavement in front of it; but one could not help one's -attention being unpleasantly distracted by the number of men of the -burgher class, smoking and with their hats on, who were allowed to use -the church as a promenade. Gouda also made an unpleasant impression -upon us, because, expensive as we found every hotel in Holland, we were -nowhere so outrageously cheated as here. - -[Illustration: THE VIJVER.] - -It is a brief journey to the Hague—La Haye, Gravenhage—most -delightful of little capitals, with its comfortable hotels and pleasant -surroundings. The town is still so small that it seems to merit the -name of 'the largest village in Europe,' which was given to it because -the jealousy of other towns prevented its having any vote in the States -General till the time of Louis Bonaparte, who gave it the privileges -of a city. It is said that the Hague, more than any other place, may -recall what Versailles was just before the great revolution. It has -thoroughly the aspect of a little royal city. Without any of the crowd -and bustle of Amsterdam and Rotterdam, it is not dead like the smaller -towns of Holland; indeed, it even seems to have a quiet gaiety, without -dissipation, of its own. All around are parks and gardens, whence wide -streets lead speedily through the new town of the rich bourgeoisie -to the old central town of stadholders, where a beautiful lake, the -Vijver, or fish-pond, comes as a surprise, with the eccentric old -palace of the Binnenhof rising straight out of its waters. We had been -told it was picturesque, but were prepared for nothing so charming -as the variety of steep roofs and towers, the clear reflections, the -tufted islet, and the beautiful colouring of the whole scene of the -Vijver. Skirting the lake, we entered the precincts of the palace -through the picturesque Gudevangen Poort, where Cornelius de Witte, -Burgomaster of Dort, was imprisoned in 1672, on a false accusation of -having suborned the surgeon William Tichelaur to murder the Prince of -Orange. He was dragged out hence and torn to pieces by the people, -together with his brother Jean de Witte, Grand Pensioner, whose house -remains hard by in the Kneuterdijk. - -The court of the Binnenhof is exceedingly handsome, and contains the -ancient Gothic Hall of the Knights, where Johann van Olden Barneveld, -Grand Pensioner, or Prime Minister, was condemned to death 'for having -conspired to dismember the States of the Netherlands, and greatly -troubled God's Church,' and in the front of which (May 24, 1619) he was -beheaded. - -[Illustration: HALL OF THE KNIGHTS, THE HAGUE.] - -Close to the north-east gate of the Binnenhof is the handsome house -called Mauritshuis, containing the inestimable Picture Gallery of the -Hague, which will bear many visits, and has the great charm of not -being huge beyond the powers of endurance. On the ground floor are -chiefly portraits, amongst which a simple dignified priest by Philippe -de Champaigne, with a far-away expression, will certainly arrest -attention. Deeply interesting is the portrait by Ravesteyn of William -the Silent, in his ruff and steel armour embossed with gold—a deeply -lined face, with a slight peaked beard. His widow, Louise de Coligny, -is also represented. There is a fine portrait by Schalcken of our -William the Third. Noble likenesses of Sir George Sheffield and his -wife Anna Wake, by Vandyke, are a pleasing contrast to the many works -of Rubens. There are deeply interesting portraits by Albert Dürer and -Holbein. - -On the first floor we must sit down before the great picture which -Rembrandt painted in his twenty-sixth year (1632) of the School of -Anatomy. Here the shrewd professor, Nicholaus Tulp, with a face -brimming with knowledge and intelligence, is expounding the anatomy of -a corpse to a number of members of the guild of surgeons, some of whom -are full of eager interest and inquiry, whilst others are inattentive: -the dead figure is greatly foreshortened and not repulsive. In another -room, a fine work of Thomas de Keyser represents the Four Burgomasters -of Amsterdam hearing of the arrival of Marie de Medicis. A beautiful -work of Adrian van Ostade is full of light and character—but only -represents a stolid boor drinking to the health of a fiddler, while a -child plays with a dog in the background. - -A group of admirers will always be found round 'the Immortal Bull' of -Paul Potter, which was considered the fourth picture in importance -in the Louvre, when the spoils of Europe were collected at Paris. -De Amicis says, 'It lives, it breathes; with his bull Paul Potter -has written the true Idyl of Holland.' It is, however—being really -a group of cattle—not a pleasing, though a life-like picture. Much -more attractive is the exquisite 'Presentation' of Rembrandt (1631), -in which Joseph and Mary, simple peasants, present the Holy Child to -Simeon, a glorious old man in a jewelled robe, who invokes a blessing -upon the infant, while other priests look on with interest. A wonderful -ray of light, falling upon the principal group, illuminates the whole -temple. Perhaps the most beautiful work in the whole gallery is the -Young Housekeeper of Gerard Dou. A lovely young woman sits at work by -an open window looking into a street. By her side is the baby asleep -in its cradle, over which the maid is leaning. The light falls on the -chandelier and all the household belongings of a well-to-do citizen: in -all there is the same marvellous finish; it is said that the handle of -the broom took three days to paint. - -There is not much to discover in the streets of the Hague. In the great -square called the Plein is the statue of William the Silent, with his -finger raised, erected in 1848 'by the grateful people to the father of -their fatherland.' In the fish-market, tame storks are kept, for the -same reason that bears are kept at Berne, because storks are the arms -of the town. But the chief attraction of the place lies in its lovely -walks amid the noble beeches and oaks of the Bosch, beyond which on the -left is Huis ten Bosch, the Petit Trianon of the Hague, the favourite -palace of Queen Sophie, who held her literary court and died there. -It is a quiet country house, looking out upon flats, with dykes and a -windmill. All travellers seem to visit it,—which must be a ceaseless -surprise to the extortionate custode to whom they have to pay a gulden -a head, and who will hurry them rapidly through some commonplace rooms -in which there is nothing really worth seeing. One room is covered with -paintings of the Rubens school, amid which, high in the dome, is a -portrait of the Princess Amalia of Solms, who built the house in 1647. - -[Illustration: SCHEVENINGEN.] - -A tram takes people for twopence halfpenny to Scheveningen through the -park, a thick wood with charming forest scenery. As the trees become -more scattered, the roar of the North Sea is heard upon the shore. -Above the sands, on the dunes or sand-hills, which extend from the -Helder to Dunkirk, is a broad terrace, lined on one side by a row of -wooden pavilions with flags and porticoes, and below it are long lines -of tents, necessary in the intense glare, while, nearer the waves, are -thousands of beehive-like refuges, with a single figure seated in each. -The flat monotonous shore would soon pall upon one, yet through the -whole summer it is an extraordinary lively scene. The placid happiness -of Dutch family life has here taken possession. On Sunday afternoons, -especially, the sands seem as crowded with human existence as they are -represented in the picture of Lingelbach, which we have seen in the -Mauritshuis, portraying the vast multitude assembled here to witness -the embarkation of Charles II. for England. - -An excursion must be made to Delft, only twenty minutes distant from -the Hague by rail. Pepys calls it 'a most sweet town, with bridges and -a river in every street,' and that is a tolerably accurate description. -It seems thinly inhabited, and the Dutch themselves look upon it as a -place where one will die of _ennui_. It has scarcely changed with two -hundred years. The view of Delft by Van der Meer in the Museum at the -Hague might have been painted yesterday. All the trees are clipped, -for in artificial Holland every work of Nature is artificialised. At -certain seasons, numbers of storks may be seen upon the chimney-tops, -for Delft is supposed to be the stork town _par excellence_. Near -the shady canal Oude Delft is a low building, once the Convent of S. -Agata, with an ornamented door surmounted by a relief, leading into a -courtyard. It is a common barrack now, for Holland, which has no local -histories, has no regard whatever for its historic associations or -monuments. Yet this is the greatest shrine of Dutch history, for it is -here that William the Silent died. - -[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO S. AGATA, DELFT.] - -Philip II. had promised 25,000 crowns of gold to any one who would -murder the Prince of Orange. An attempt had already been made, but had -failed, and William refused to take any measures for self-protection, -saying, 'It is useless: my years are in the hands of God: if there is -a wretch who has no fear of death, my life is in his hand, however I -may guard it.' At length, a young man of seven-and-twenty appeared -at Delft, who gave himself out to be one Guyon, a Protestant, son of -Pierre Guyon, executed at Besançon for having embraced Calvinism, and -declared that he was exiled for his religion. Really he was Balthazar -Gerard, a bigoted Catholic, but his conduct in Holland soon procured -him the reputation of an evangelical saint. The Prince took him into -his service and sent him to accompany a mission from the States of -Holland to the Court of France, whence he returned to bring the news -of the death of the Duke of Anjou to William. At that time the Prince -was living with his court in the convent of S. Agata, where he received -Balthazar alone in his chamber. The moment was opportune, but the -would-be assassin had no arms ready. William gave him a small sum of -money and bade him hold himself in readiness to be sent back to France. -With the money Balthazar bought two pistols from a soldier (who -afterwards killed himself when he heard the use which was made of the -purchase). On the next day, June 10, 1584, Balthazar returned to the -convent as William was descending the staircase to dinner, with his -fourth wife, Louise de Coligny (daughter of the Admiral who fell in the -massacre of S. Bartholomew), on his arm. He presented his passport and -begged the Prince to sign it, but was told to return later. At dinner -the Princess asked William who was the young man who had spoken to him, -for his expression was the most terrible she had ever seen. The Prince -laughed, said it was Guyon, and was as gay as usual. Dinner being over, -the family party were about to remount the staircase. The assassin was -waiting in a dark corner at the foot of the stairs, and as William -passed he discharged a pistol with three balls and fled. The Prince -staggered, saying, 'I am wounded; God have mercy upon me and my poor -people.' His sister Catherine van Schwartzbourg asked, 'Do you trust in -Jesus Christ?' He said, 'Yes,' with a feeble voice, sat down upon the -stairs, and died. - -Balthazar reached the rampart of the town in safety, hoping to swim -to the other side of the moat, where a horse awaited him. But he had -dropped his hat and his second pistol in his flight, and so he was -traced and seized before he could leap from the wall. Amid horrible -tortures, he not only confessed, but continued to triumph in his crime. -His judges believed him to be possessed of the devil. The next day he -was executed. His right hand was burnt off in a tube of red-hot iron: -the flesh of his arms and legs was torn off with red-hot pincers; but -he never made a cry. It was not till his breast was cut open, and his -heart torn out and flung in his face, that he expired. His head was -then fixed on a pike, and his body cut into four quarters, exposed on -the four gates of the town. - -Close to the Prinsenhof is the Oude Kerk with a leaning tower. It -is arranged like a very ugly theatre inside, but contains, with -other tombs of celebrities, the monument of Admiral van Tromp, -1650—'Martinus Harberti Trompius'—whose effigy lies upon his back, -with swollen feet. It was this Van Tromp who defeated the English -fleet under Blake, and perished, as represented on the monument, in an -engagement off Scheveningen. It was he who, after his victory over the -English, caused a broom to be hoisted at his mast-head to typify that -he had swept the Channel clear of his enemies. - -The Nieuwe Kerk in the Groote Markt (1412-76) contains the magnificent -monument of William the Silent by Hendrik de Keyser and A. Quellin -(1621). Black marble columns support a white canopy over the white -sleeping figure of the Prince, who is represented in his little black -silk cap, as he is familiar to us in his pictures. In the recesses of -the tomb—'_somptueux et tourmenté_,' as Montégut calls it—are statues -of Liberty, Justice, Prudence, and Religion. At the feet of William -lies his favourite dog, which saved his life from midnight assassins at -Malines, by awakening him. At the head of the tomb is another figure of -William, of bronze, seated. In the same church is a monument to Hugo -Grotius—'prodigium Europae'—the greatest lawyer of the seventeenth -century, presented to Henri IV. by Barneveld as 'La merveille de la -Hollande.' - -On leaving the Hague a few hours should be given to the dull university -town of Leyden, unless it has been seen as an afternoon excursion from -the capital. This melancholy and mildewed little town, mouldering -from a century of stagnation, the birthplace of Rembrandt, surrounds -the central tower of its Burg—standing in the grounds of an inn, -which exacts payment from those who visit it. Close by is the huge -church of S. Pancras—Houglansche Kerk—of the fifteenth century, -containing the tomb of Van der Werff, burgomaster during the famous -siege, who answered the starving people, when they came demanding -bread or surrender, that he had 'sworn to defend the city, and, with -God's help, he meant to keep his oath, but that if his body would -help them to prolong the defence, they might take it and share it -amongst those who were most hungry.' A covered bridge over a canal -leads to the Bredenstrasse, where there is a picturesque grey stone -Stadhuis of the sixteenth century. It contains the principal work of -Cornelius Engelbrechtsen of Leyden (1468-1533), one of the earliest -of Dutch painters—an altarpiece representing the Crucifixion, with -the Sacrifice of Abraham and Worship of the Brazen Serpent in the side -panels, as symbols of the Atonement: on the pedestal is a naked body, -out of which springs a tree—the tree of life—and beside it kneel the -donors. The neighbouring church of S. Peter (1315) contains the tomb -of Boerhaave, the physician, whose lectures in the University were -attended by Peter the Great, and for whom a Chinese mandarin found -'à l'illustre M. Boerhaave, médecin, en Europe,' quite sufficient -direction. Boerhaave was the doctor who said that the poor were his -best patients, for God paid for them. - -The streets are grass-grown, the houses damp, the canals green with -weed. The University has fallen into decadence since others were -established at Utrecht, Groningen, and Amsterdam; but Leyden is still -the most flourishing of the four. When William of Orange offered the -citizens freedom from taxes, as a reward for their endurance of the -famous siege, they thanked him, but said they would rather have a -university. Grotius and Cartesius (Descartes), Arminius and Gomar, -were amongst its professors, and the University possesses an admirable -botanical museum and a famous collection of Japanese curiosities. - -The Rhine cuts up the town of Leyden into endless islands, connected by -a hundred and fifty bridges. On a quiet canal near the Beesten Markt -is the Museum, which contains the 'Last Judgment' of Lucas van Leyden -(1494-1533), a scholar of Engelbrechtsen, and one of the patriarchs of -Dutch painting. - -A few minutes bring us from Leyden to Haarlem by the railway. It -crosses an isthmus between the sea and a lake which covered the whole -country between Leyden, Haarlem, and Amsterdam till 1839, when it -became troublesome, and the States-General forthwith, after the fashion -of Holland, voted its destruction. Enormous engines were at once -employed to drain it by pumping the water into canals, which carried it -to the sea, and the country was the richer by a new province. - -[Illustration: MARKET-PLACE, HAARLEM.] - -Haarlem, on the river Spaarne, stands out distinct in recollection from -all other Dutch towns, for it has the most picturesque market-place -in Holland—the Groote Markt—surrounded by quaint houses of varied -outline, amidst which rises the Groote Kerk of S. Bavo, a noble -cruciform fifteenth-century building. The interior, however, is as -bare and hideous as all other Dutch churches. It contains a monument -to the architect Conrad, designer of the famous locks of Katwijk, -'the defender of Holland against the fury of the sea and the power of -tempests.' Behind the choir is the tomb of the poet Bilderdijk, who -only died in 1831, and near this the grave of Laurenz Janzoom—the -Coster or Sacristan—who is asserted in his native town, but never -believed outside it, to have been the real inventor of printing, as he -is said to have cut out letters in wood, and taken impressions from -them in ink, as early as 1423. His partisans also maintain that whilst -he was attending a midnight mass, praying for patience to endure the -ill-treatment of his enemies, all his implements were stolen, and -that when he found this out on his return he died of grief. It is -further declared that the robber was Faust of Mayence, the brother -of Gutenberg, and that it was thus that the honour of the invention -passed from Holland to Germany, where Gutenberg produced his invention -of movable type twelve years later. There is a statue of the Coster in -front of the church, and, on its north side, his house is preserved and -adorned with his bust. - -Amongst a crowd of natives with their hats on, talking in church -as in the market-place, we waited to hear the famous organ of -Christian Muller (1735-38), and grievously were we disappointed -with its discordant noises. All the men smoked in church, and this -we saw repeatedly; but it would be difficult to say where we ever -saw a Dutchman with a pipe out of his mouth. Every man seemed to be -systematically smoking away the few wits he possessed. - -Opposite the Groote Kerk is the Stadhuis, an old palace of the Counts -of Holland remodelled. It contains a delightful little gallery of -the works of Franz Hals, which at once transports the spectator into -the Holland of two hundred years ago—such is the marvellous variety -of life and vigour impressed into its endless figures of stalwart -officers and handsome young archers pledging each other at banquet -tables and seeming to welcome the visitor with jovial smiles as he -enters the chamber, or of serene old ladies, 'regents' of hospitals, -seated at their council boards. The immense power of the artist is -shown in nothing so much as in the hands, often gloved, dashed in -with instantaneous power, yet always having the effect of the most -consummate finish at a distance. Behind one of the pictures is the -entrance to the famous 'secret-room of Haarlem,' seldom seen, but -containing an inestimable collection of historic relics of the time of -the famous siege of Leyden. - -April and May are the best months for visiting Haarlem, which is the -bulb nursery garden of the world. 'Oignons à fleurs' are advertised for -sale everywhere. Tulips are more cultivated than any other flowers, -as ministering most to the national craving for colour; but times are -changed since a single bulb of the tulip 'L'Amiral Liefkenshoch' sold -for 4,500 florins, one of 'Viceroy' for 4,200, and one of 'Semper -Augustus' for 13,000. - -Now we entered Amsterdam, to which we had looked forward as the climax -of our tour, having read of it and pondered upon it as 'the Venice of -the north;' but our expectations were raised much too high. Anything -more unlike Venice it would be difficult to imagine: and there is a -terrible want of variety and colour; many of the smaller towns of -Holland are far more interesting and infinitely more picturesque. - -[Illustration: MILL NEAR AMSTERDAM.] - -A castle was built at Amsterdam in 1204, but the town only became -important in the sixteenth century, since which it has been the most -commercial of ancient European cities. It is situated upon the influx -of the Amstel to the Y, as the arm of the Zuider Zee which forms the -harbour is called, and it occupies a huge semicircle, its walls being -enclosed by the broad moat, six and a half miles long, which is known -as Buitensingel. The greater part of the houses are built on piles, -causing Erasmus to say that the inhabitants lived on trees like rooks. -In the centre of the town is the great square called Dam, one side of -which is occupied by the handsome Royal Palace—Het Palais—built by J. -van Kampen in 1648. The Nieuwe Kerk (1408-1470) contains a number of -monuments to admirals, including those of Van Ruiter—'immensi tremor -oceani'—who commanded at the battle of Solbay, and Van Speyk, who blew -himself up with his ship in 1831, rather than yield to the Belgians. In -the Oude Kerk of 1300 there are more tombs of admirals. Hard by, in the -Nieuwe Markt, is the picturesque cluster of fifteenth-century towers -called S. Anthonieswaag, once a city gate and now a weighing-house. - -But the great attraction of Amsterdam is the Picture Gallery of the -Trippenhuis, called the Rijks Museum, and it deserves many visits. -Amongst the portraits in the first room we were especially attracted -by that of William the Silent in his skull-cap, by Miereveld, but -all the House of Orange are represented here from the first to the -last. We also see all the worthies of the nation—Ruyter, Van Tromp -and his wife, Grotius and his wife, Johann and Cornelis de Witt, -Johann van Oldenharneveldt, and his wife Maria of Utrecht, a peaceful -old lady in a ruff and brown dress edged with fur, by Moreelse. The -two great pictures of the gallery hang opposite each other. That by -Bartholomew van der Helst, the most famous of Dutch portrait-painters, -represents the Banquet of the Musqueteers, who thus celebrated the -Peace of Westphalia, June 18, 1648. It contains twenty-five life-size -portraits, is the best work of the master, and was pronounced by Sir -Joshua Reynolds to be the 'first picture of portraits in the world.' -The canvas is a mirror faithfully representing a scene of actual life. -In the centre sits the jovial, rollicking Captain de Wits with his -legs crossed. The delicate imitation of reality is equally shown in -the Rhenish wine-glasses, and in the ham to which one of the guests is -helping himself. - -The rival picture is the 'Night Watch' of Rembrandt (1642), -representing Captain Frans Banning Kok of Purmerland and his lieutenant -Willem van Ruytenberg of Vlaardingen, emerging from their watch-house -on the Singel. A joyous troop pursue their leader, who is in a black -dress. A strange light comes upon the scene, who can tell whence? Half -society has always said that this picture was the marvel of the world, -half that it is unworthy of its artist; but no one has ever been quite -indifferent to it. - -Of the other pictures we must at least notice, by Nicholas Maas, a -thoughtful girl leaning on a cushion out of a window with apricots -beneath; and by Jan Steen, 'The Parrot Cage,' a simple scene of tavern -life, in which the waiting-maid calls to the parrot hanging aloft, who -looks knowingly out of the cage, whilst all the other persons present -go on with their different employments. In the 'Eve of S. Nicholas,' -another work of the same artist, a naughty boy finds a birch-rod in -his shoe, and a good little girl, laden with gifts, is being praised -by her mother, whilst other children are looking up the chimney by -which the discriminating fairy Befana is supposed to have taken her -departure. There are many beautiful works of Ruysdael, most at home -amongst waterfalls; a noble Vandyke of 'William II.' as a boy, with -his little bride, Mary Stuart, Charles I.'s daughter, in a brocaded -silver dress; and the famous Terburg called 'Paternal Advice' (known -in England by its replica at Bridgewater House), in which a daughter -in white satin is receiving a lecture from her father, her back turned -to the spectator, and her annoyance, or repentance, only exhibited in -her shoulders. Another famous work of Terburg is 'The Letter,' which is -being brought in by a trumpeter to an officer seated in his uniform, -with his young wife kneeling at his side. Of Gerard Dou Amsterdam -possesses the wonderful 'Evening School,' with four luminous candles, -and some thoroughly Dutch children. A girl is laboriously following -with her finger the instructions received, and a boy is diligently -writing on a slate. The girl who stands behind, instructing him, is -holding a candle which throws a second light upon his back, that upon -the table falling on his features; indeed the painting is often known -as the 'Picture of the Four Candles.' - -Through the labyrinthine quays we found our way to the Westerhoof to -take the afternoon steamer to Purmerende for an excursion to Broek, -'the cleanest village in the world.' Crossing the broad Amstel, the -vessel soon enters a canal, which sometimes lies at a great depth, -nothing being visible but the tops of masts and points of steeples; and -which then, after passing locks, becomes level with the tops of the -trees and the roofs of the houses. We left the steamer at T Schouw, -and entered, on a side canal, one of the trekschuiten, which, until -the time of railroads, were the usual means of travel—a long narrow -cabin, encircled by seats, forms the whole vessel, and is drawn by a -horse ridden by a boy (het-jagerte)—a most agreeable easy means of -locomotion, for movement is absolutely imperceptible. - -No place was ever more exaggerated than Broek. There is really very -little remarkable in it, except even a greater sense of dampness and -ooziness than in the other Dutch villages. It was autumn, and there -seemed no particular attempt to remove the decaying vegetation or trim -the little gardens, or to sweep up the dead leaves upon the pathways, -yet there used to be a law that no animal was to enter Broek for fear -of its being polluted. A brick path winds amongst the low wooden -cottages, painted blue, green, and white, and ends at the church, with -its miniature tombstones. - -The most interesting excursion to be made from Amsterdam is that -to the Island of Marken in the Zuider Zee—a huge meadow, where the -peasant women pass their whole lives without ever seeing anything -beyond their island, whilst their husbands, who with very few -exceptions are fishermen, see nothing beyond the fisher-towns of the -Zuider Zee. There are very picturesque costumes here, the men wearing -red woollen shirts, brown vests, wooden shoes, fur caps, and gold -buttons to their collars and knickerbockers; the women, embroidered -stomachers, which are handed down for generations, and enormous white -caps, lined with brown to show off the lace, and with a chintz cover -for week days, and their own hair flowing below the cap over their -shoulders and backs. - -An evening train, with an old lady, in a diamond tiara and gold pins, -for our companion, took us to the Helder, and we awoke next morning -at the pleasant little inn of Du Burg upon a view of boats and nets -and the low-lying Island of Texel in the distance. The boats and the -fishermen are extremely picturesque, but there is nothing else to -see, after the visitor has examined the huge granite Helder Dyke, the -artificial fortification of north Holland, which contends successfully -to preserve the land against the sea. There is an admirably managed -Naval Institute here. It was by an expedition from the Helder that -Nova Zembla was discovered, and it was near this that Admirals Ruyter -and Tromp repulsed the English fleet. Texel, which lies opposite the -Helder, is the first of a chain of islands—Vlieland, Terschelling, and -Ameland, which protect the entrance of the Zuider Zee. - -[Illustration: APPROACH TO ALKMAAR.] - -The country near the Helder is bare and desolate in the extreme. It is -all peat, and the rest of Holland uses it as a fuel mine. It was here -that the genius of Ruysdael was often able to make a single tree, or -even a bush rising out of the flat by a stagnant pool, both interesting -and charming to the spectator. We crossed the levels to Alkmaar, which -struck us as being altogether the prettiest place in the country and -as possessing all those attributes of cleanliness which are usually -given to Broek. The streets, formed of bricks fitted close together, -are absolutely spotless, and every house front shines fresh from -the mop or the syringe. Yet excessive cleanliness has not destroyed -the picturesqueness of the place. The fifteenth-century church of -S. Lawrence, of exquisitely graceful exterior, rises in the centre -of the town, and, in spite of being hideously defaced inside, has a -fine vaulted roof, a coloured screen, and, in the chancel, a curious -tomb to Florens V., Count of Holland, 1296, though only his heart is -buried there. Near the excellent Hôtel du Burg is a most bewitching -almshouse, with an old tourelle and screen, and a lovely garden in a -court surrounded by clipped lime-trees. And more charming still is -an old weigh-house of 1582, for the cheese, the great manufacture of -the district, for which there is a famous market every Friday, where -capital costumes may be seen. The rich and gaily painted façade of the -old building, reflected in a clear canal, is a perfect marvel of beauty -and colour; and artists should stay here to paint—not the view given -here, but another which we discovered too late—more in front, with -gable-ended houses leading up to the principal building, and all its -glowing colours repeated in the water. - -[Illustration: THE WEIGH-HOUSE, ALKMAAR.] - -It is three hours' drive from Alkmaar to Hoorn, a charming old town -with bastions, gardens, and semi-ruined gates. On the West Poort a -relief commemorates the filial devotion of a poor boy, who arrived here -in 1579, laboriously dragging his old mother in a sledge, when all were -flying from the Spaniards. Opposite the weighing-house for the cheeses -is the State College, which bears a shield with the arms of England, -sustained by two negroes. It commemorates the fact that when Van Tromp -defeated the English squadron, his ships came from Hoorn and on board -were two negroes, who took from the English flagship the shield which -it was then the custom to fix to the stern of a vessel, and brought it -back here as a trophy. Hoorn was one of the first places in Holland to -embrace the reformed religion, which spread from hence all over the -country, but now not above half the inhabitants are Calvinists. - -In returning from Alkmaar we stopped to see Zaandam, quite in the -centre of the land of windmills, of which we counted eighty as visible -from the station alone. They are of every shade of colour, and are -mounted on poles, on towers, on farm buildings, and made picturesque -by every conceivable variety of prop, balcony, gallery, and insertion. -Zaandam is a very pretty village on the Zaan which flows into the -Y, with gaily painted houses, and gay little gardens, and perpetual -movement to and from its landing-stage. Turning south from thence, a -little entry on the right leads down some steps and over a bridge to -some cottages on the bank of a ditch, and inside the last of these is -the tiny venerable hovel where Peter the Great stayed in 1697 as Peter -Michaeloff. It retains its tiled roof and contains some old chairs and -a box-bed, but unfortunately Peter was only here a week. - -[Illustration: MILL AT ZAANDAM.] - -[Illustration: PAUSHUIZEN, UTRECHT.] - -The evening of leaving Zaandam we spent at Utrecht, of which the -name is so well known from the peace which terminated the war of the -Spanish succession, April 11, 1715. The town, long the seat of an -ecclesiastical court, was also the great centre of the Jansenists, -dissenters from Roman Catholicism under Jansenius, Bishop of Ypres, -condemned by Alexander VII. in 1656, at the instigation of the -Jesuits. The doctrines of Jansenius still linger in its gloomy houses. -Every appointment of a bishop is still announced to the Sovereign -Pontiff, who as regularly responds by a bull of excommunication, which -is read aloud in the cathedral, and then immediately put away and -forgotten. Solemn and sad, but pre-eminently respectable, Utrecht has -more the aspect of a decayed German city than a Dutch town, and so -has its Cathedral of S. Martin (1254-67), which, though the finest -Gothic building in Holland, is only a magnificent fragment, with a -detached tower (1321-82) 338 feet high. The interior as usual is ruined -by Calvinism and yellow paint. It contains the tomb of Admiral van -Gent, who fell in the battle of Solbay. The nave, which fell in 1674, -has never been rebuilt. The S. Pieterskerk (1039) and S. Janskerk -offer nothing remarkable, but on a neighbouring canal is the quaint -Paushuizen, or Pope's house, which was built by Pope Adrian VI. (Adrian -Floriszoom) in 1517. Near this is the pretty little Archiepiscopal -Museum, full of mediæval relics. - -The interesting Moravian establishment of Zeist may be visited from -Utrecht. - -From Utrecht we travelled over sandy flats to Kampen, near the -mouth of the wide river Yssel, with three picturesque gates—Haghen -Poort, Cellebroeders Poort, and Broeders Poort; and a town hall of -the sixteenth century. Here, as frequently elsewhere in Holland, we -suffered from arriving famished at midday. All the inns were equally -inhospitable: 'The table d'hôte is at 4 P.M.: we _cannot_ and _will -not_ be bothered with cooking before that, and there is nothing cold -in the house.' 'But you have surely bread and cheese?' 'Certainly -not—_nothing_.' - -[Illustration: CELLEBROEDERS POORT, KAMPEN.] - -At Zwolle, however, we found the Kroon an excellent hotel with an -obliging landlord; and Zwolle, the native place of Terburg (1608), is a -charming old town with a girdle of gardens, a fine church (externally), -and a noble brick gateway called the Sassenpoort. - -[Illustration: SASSENPOORT, AT ZWOLLE.] - -It was more the desire of seeing something of the whole country than -anything else, and a certain degree of misplaced confidence in the -pleasant volumes of Harvard, which took us up from Zwolle, through -Friesland, the cow-paradise, to Leeuwarden, its ancient capital. Sad -and gloomy as most other towns of Holland are, Leeuwarden is sadder and -gloomier still. Its streets are wide and not otherwise than handsome, -but they are almost deserted, and there are no objects of interest -to see unless a leaning tower can be called so, with a top, like that -at Pisa, inclined the other way, to keep it from toppling over. An -hour's walk from the town there is said to be a fine still-inhabited -castle, and, if time had allowed, respect for S. Boniface would have -taken us to Murmerwoude, where he was martyred (June 8, 853), with his -fifty-three companions. King Pepin raised a hermitage on the spot, and -an ancient brick chapel still exists there. - -Here and elsewhere in Friesland nothing is so worthy of notice as the -helmets—the golden helmets of the women—costing something equivalent -to 25_l._ or 30_l._, handed down as heirlooms, fitting close to the -head, and not allowing a particle of hair to be visible. - -In the late evening we went on to Groningen, a university town with -a good hotel (Seven Provincen), an enormous square, and a noble tall -Gothic tower of 1627, whence the watchman still sounds his bugle. Not -far off is Midwolde, where the village church has fine tombs of Charles -Jerome, Baron d'Inhausen and his wife, Anna von Ewsum. - -As late as the sixteenth century this province was for the most part -uninhabited—savage and sandy, and overrun by wolves. But three hundred -years of hard work has transformed it into a fertile country, watered -by canals, and sprinkled with country houses. Agriculturally it is one -of the richest provinces of the kingdom. This is mostly due to its -possessing a race of peasant-farmers who never shrink from personal -hard work, and who will continue to direct the plough whilst they -send their sons to the university to study as lawyers, doctors, or -churchmen. These peasant farmers or boers possess the _beklemregt_, or -right of hiring land on an annual rent, which the landlord can never -increase. A peasant can bequeath his right to his heirs, whether direct -or collateral. To the land, this system is an indescribable advantage, -the cultivators doing their utmost to bring their lands to perfection, -because they are certain that no one can take away the advantage from -themselves or their descendants. - -On leaving Groningen we traversed the grey, monotonous, desolate -district of the Drenthe, sprinkled over at intervals by the curious -ancient groups of stones called Hunnebedden, or beds of death (Hun -meaning death), beneath which urns of clay containing human ashes have -been found. From Deventer (where there is an old weigh-house, and a -cathedral of S. Lievin with a crypt and nave of 1334), time did not -allow us to make an excursion to the great royal palace of Het Loo, -the favourite residence of the sovereigns. The descriptions in Harvard -rather made us linger unnecessarily at Zutphen, a dull town, with a -brick Groote Kerk (S. Walpurgis) which has little remaining of its -original twelfth-century date, and a rather picturesque 'bit' on the -walls, where the 'Waterpoort' crosses the river like a bridge. - -At Arnhem, the Roman Arenacum, once the residence of the Dukes of -Gueldres, and still the capital of Guelderland, we seemed to have left -all the characteristics of Holland behind. Numerous modern villas, -which might have been built for Cheltenham or Leamington, cover the -wooded hills above the Rhine. In the Groote Kerk (1452) is a curious -monument of Charles van Egmont, Duc de Gueldres, 1538, but there is -nothing else to remark upon. We intended to have made an excursion -hence to Cleves, but desperately wet weather set in, and, as Dutch rain -often lasts for weeks together when it once begins, we were glad to -hurry England-wards, only regretting that we could not halt at Nymegen, -a most picturesque place, where Charlemagne lived in the old palace of -the Valckhof (or Waalhof, residence on the Waal), of which a fragment -still exists, with an old baptistery, a Stadhuis of 1534, and a Groote -Kerk containing a noble monument to Catherine de Bourbon (1469), wife -of Duke Adolph of Gueldres. - -We left Holland feeling that we should urge our friends by all means to -see the pictures at Rotterdam, the Hague, and Amsterdam, but to look -for all other characteristics of the Netherlands in such places as -Breda, Dortrecht, Haarlem, Alkmaar, and Zwolle. - - - - -_IN DENMARK._ - - -Formerly the terrors of a sea-voyage from Kiel deterred many travellers -from thinking of a tour in Denmark or Sweden, but now a succession of -railways makes everything easy, and while nothing can be imagined more -invigorating or pleasant, there is probably no pleasure more economical -than a summer in Scandinavia. Those who are worn with a London season -will feel as if every breath in the crystal air of Denmark endued them -with fresh health and strength, and then, after they have seen its old -palaces and its beech woods and its Thorwaldsen sculptures, a voyage of -ten minutes will carry them over the narrow Sound to the soft beauties -of genial Sweden and the wild splendours of Norway. - -Either Hamburg or Lübeck must be the starting-point for the overland -route to Denmark, and the old free city of Lübeck, though quite a small -place, is one of the most remarkable towns in Germany. We arrived -there one hot summer afternoon, after a weary journey over the arid -sandy plains which separate it from Berlin, and suddenly seemed to -be transported into a land of verdure. Lilacs and roses bloomed -everywhere; a wood lined the bank of the limpid river Trave, and in its -waters—beyond the old wooden bridge—were reflected all the tallest -steeples, often strangely out of the perpendicular, of many-towered -Lübeck. A wonderful gate of red brick and golden-hued terra-cotta -is the entrance from the station, and in the market-place are the -quaintest turrets, towers, tourelles, but all ending in spires. The -lofty houses, so full of rich colour, throw cool shade on the streets -on the hottest summer day; and we enjoyed a Sunday in the excellent -hotel, with wooden galleries opening towards a splashing fountain in a -quiet square, where a fat constable busied himself in keeping everybody -from fulfilling any avocation whatever whilst service was being -performed in the churches, but let them do exactly as they pleased as -soon as it was over. - -It must, at best, be a weary journey across West Holstein, through -a succession of arid flats varied by stagnant swamps. We spent the -weary hours in studying Dunham's 'History of Denmark, Sweden, and -Norway,' which cannot be sufficiently recommended to all Scandinavian -travellers. The glowing accounts in the English guide books of a lake -and an old castle beguiled us into spending a night at Sleswig, but it -turned out that the lake had disappeared before the memory of man, and -that the castle was a white modern barrack. The colourless town and its -long sleepy suburb, moored as if upon a raft in the marshes, straggle -along the edge of a waveless fiord. At the end is the rugged cathedral -like a barn, with a belfry like a dovecot, and inside it a curious -altarpiece by Hans Brüggemann, pupil of Albert Dürer, and the noble -monument of Frederick I., the first Lutheran King of Denmark; while -richly carved doors at the sides of the church admit one to see how -the grandmother of the Princess of Wales and various other potentates -lie—Danish fashion—in gorgeous exposed coffins without any tombs -at all. Everywhere roses grow in the streets, trained upon the house -walls; and, up the pavement, crowds of the children were hurrying in -the early morning, carrying in their hands the shoes they were going -to wear when they were in school. In the evenings these children will -not venture outside the town, for over the marshes they say that the -wild huntsman rides, followed by his demon hounds and blowing his magic -horn. It is the spirit of Duke Abel the fratricide, who, in the fens, -murdered his brother Eric VI. of Denmark, and who was afterwards lost -there himself, falling from his horse, and being dragged down by the -weight of his armour. To give rest to his wandering spirit, the clergy -dug up his body and despatched it to Bremen, but there his vampire gave -the canons no peace, so they sent the corpse back again, and now it -lies once more in the marshes of Gottorp. - -Most unutterably hideous is the country through which the railway -now travels, wearisome levels only broken here and there by mounds, -probably sepulchral. A straight line with tiny hillocks at intervals -would do for a sketch of the whole of Sleswig and the greater part of -Funen and Zealand. In times of early Danish history it was a frequent -punishment to bury criminals alive in these dismal peat mosses. Twelve -hours of changelessly flat scenery bring travellers from Hamburg to -Frederikshaven, where we embark upon the Little Belt, the luggage-vans -of the train being shunted on board the steamer. Immediately opposite -lie the sandy shores of Funen, and in a few minutes we are there. -Then four hours of ugly scenery take us across the island. It is only -necessary to look out at the little town of Odense, called after the -old hero-god, which was the birth-place of Hans Christian Andersen in -1805. The cathedral of Odense contains the shrine of the sainted King -Canute IV. (1080-86), who was murdered while kneeling before the altar, -owing to indignation at the severe taxation to which the love of Church -endowment had incited him. - -Nyborg, where we meet the sea again, will recall to lovers of old -ballads the story of the innocent young knight Folker Lowmanson, and -his cruel death here in a barrel of spikes, from the jealousy of -Waldemar IV. for his beautiful queen Helwig, and how, to know his fate— - - With anxious heart did Denmark's Queen - To Nyborg urge her horse, - And at the gate his bier she met, - And on it Folker's corse. - - Such honour shown to son of knight - I never yet could hear; - The Queen of Denmark walked on foot - Herself before his bier. - - In tears then Helwig mounted horse - And silent homeward rode, - For in her heart a life-long grief - Had taken its abode. - -At Nyborg we embark on a miserable steamer for the passage of the -Great Belt. It lasts an hour and a half, and is often most wretched. -On landing at Korsor travellers are hurried into the train which is -waiting for the vessel. - -Now the country improves a little. Here and there we pass through -great beech woods. Down the green glades of one of them a glimpse is -caught of the college of Sorö. It occupies the site of a monastery -founded by Asker Ryg, a chieftain who, when he departed on a journey -of warfare, vowed that if the child to which his wife, Inge, was about -to give birth proved to be a girl, he would give his new building a -spire, but a tower if it were a boy. On his return he saw two towers -rising in the distance. Inge had given birth to twin sons, who lived -to become Asbiorn Snare, celebrated in the ballad of 'Fair Christal,' -and Absalon, the warrior Bishop of Roeskilde—'first captain by sea and -land.' Absalon is buried here in the church of Sorö, which contains the -tomb of King Olaf, the shortlived son of the famous Queen Margaret; -of her cruel father, Waldemar Atterdag, whose last words expressed -regret that he had not suffocated his daughter in her cradle; and of -her grandfather, Christopher II., with his wife, Euphemia of Pomerania. -Soon we pass Ringsted, which is scarcely worth stopping at, though -its church contains the fine brass of King Erik Menred (1319) and his -queen, Ingeborga, and though twenty kings and queens were entombed -there before Roeskilde became the royal place of sepulture. Amongst -them lies the popular Queen Dagmar, first wife of Waldemar II., still -celebrated in ballad literature, for there is scarcely a Dane who is -ignorant of the touching story of 'Queen Dagmar's Death,' which begins - - Queen Dagmar is lying at Ribé sick, - At Ringsted is made her grave, - -and which contains her last touching request to her husband, and her -simple confession of the only 'sin' she could remember— - - Had I on a Sunday not laced my sleeves, - Or border upon them sewn, - No pangs had I felt by day or night, - Or torture of hell-fire known. - -Tradition tells us that the dismal town of Ringsted was founded by King -Ring, a warrior who, when he was seriously wounded in battle, placed -the bodies of his slain heroes and that of his queen, Alpol, on board a -ship laden with pitch, and going out to the open sea, set the vessel on -fire, and then fell upon his sword. - -In the twilight we pass Roeskilde, and at 10-1/2 P.M. long rows of -street lamps reflected in canals show that we have reached Copenhagen. - -To those whose travels have chiefly led them southwards there is a -great pleasure in the first awaking in Copenhagen. Everything is -new—the associations, the characteristics, the history; even the -very names on the omnibuses are suggestive of the sagas and romances -of the North; and though the summer sun is hot, the atmosphere is as -clear as that of a tramontana day in an Italian winter, and the air is -indescribably elastic. The comfortable Hôtel d'Angleterre stands in -the Kongens Nytorv, a modern square, with trees surrounding a statue -in the centre, but there are glimpses of picturesque shipping down the -side streets, and hard by is a spire quite ideally Danish, formed by -three marvellous dragons with their tails twisted together in the air. -Tradition declares that it was moved bodily from Calmar, in the south -of Sweden. It rises now from a beautiful building of brick erected in -1624 by Christian IV., brother-in-law of James I. of England, and used -as the Exchange. - -Not far off is the principal palace—Christiansborg Slot, often -rebuilt, and very white and ugly. It was partially destroyed by fire in -1884. Besides the royal residence, its vast courts contain the Chambers -of Parliament, the Royal Library, and a Picture Gallery chiefly filled -with the works of native artists, amongst which those of Marstrand and -Bloch are very striking and well worthy of attention. - -[Illustration: THE DRAGON TOWER, COPENHAGEN.] - -A queer building in the shadow of the palace, which attracts notice by -its frescoed walls, is the Thorwaldsen Museum, the shrine where Denmark -has reverentially collected all the works and memorials of her greatest -artist—Bertel Thorwaldsen. Though his family is said to have descended -from the Danish king Harold Stildetand, he was born (in 1770) the son -of one Gottschalk, who, half workman, half artist, was employed in -carving figures for the bows of vessels. From his earliest childhood -little Bertel accompanied his father to the wharfs and assisted him in -his work, in which he showed such intelligence that in his eleventh -year he was allowed to enter the Free School of Art. Here he soon made -wonderful progress in sculpture, but could so little be persuaded to -attend to other studies that he reached the age of eighteen scarcely -able to read. In his twenty-third year he obtained the great gold -medal, to which a travelling stipend is attached, and thus he was -enabled to go to Rome, where, encouraged at first by the patronage of -Thomas Hope, the English banker, he soon reached the highest pitch of -celebrity. Denmark became proud of her son, so that his visits to his -native town in 1819 and 1837 were like triumphal progresses, all the -city going forth to meet him, and lodging him splendidly at the public -cost; but his heart always clung to the Eternal City, which continued -to be the scene of his labours. Of his many works perhaps his noble -lion at Lucerne is the best known. He never married, though he was long -attached to a member of the old Scottish house of Mackenzie, and he -died on a visit to Copenhagen in 1844. - -In accordance with Thorwaldsen's own wish, he rests in the centre of -his works. His grave has no tombstone, but is covered with green ivy. -All around the little court which contains it are halls and galleries -filled with the marvellously varied productions of his genius, arranged -in the order of their execution—casts of all his absent sculptures -and many most grand originals. Especially beautiful are the statue -of Mercury, modelled from a Roman boy, of which the original is in -the possession of Lord Ashburton, and the exquisite reliefs of the -Ages of Love, and of Day and Night, the two latter resulting from -the inspiration of a single afternoon. But all seem to culminate in -the great Hall of Christ, for though the statues here are only cast -from those in the Vor Frue Kirche, they are far better seen in the -well-lighted chamber than in the church. The colossal figures of the -apostles lead up to the Saviour in sublime benediction; perhaps the -statues of Simon Zelotes and the pilgrim S. James are the noblest -amongst them. In the last room are gathered all the little personal -memorials of Thorwaldsen—his books, pictures, and furniture. - -[Illustration: The Rosenborg Palace, Copenhagen.] - -The Museum of Northern Antiquities should also be visited and the Tower -of the Trinity Church, with a roadway inside making an easy ascent to -the strange view of many roofs and many waters which is obtained from -the top. But the most delightful place in Copenhagen is the Palace -of Rosenborg, standing at the end of a stately old garden—where it -was built by Inigo Jones for Christian IV., and containing the room -where the king died, with his wedding dress, and most of his other -clothes and possessions. This palace-building monarch, celebrated -for the drinking bouts in which he indulged with his brother-in-law, -James I. of England, was the greatest dandy of his time, and before -we leave Denmark we shall become very familiar with his portraits, -always distinguished by the wonderful left whisker twisted into a -pigtail falling on one side of the chin. Other rooms in Rosenborg -are devoted to each of the succeeding sovereigns, and filled with -relics and memorials which carry one back into most romantic corners -of Danish history, the ever-alternate succession of Christians and -Fredericks making a most terrible bewilderment, down to the two English -queens, Louisa the beloved and Caroline Matilda the unfortunate. Most -curious amongst a myriad objects of value are the three great silver -Lions—'Great Belt, Little Belt, and Sound'—which, by ancient custom, -appear as mourners at all the funerals of the sovereigns, accompanying -them to Roeskilde and returning afterwards to the palace. - -Those interested in such matters will wander as we did through the -more ancient parts of Copenhagen in search of old silver and specimens -of the older Copenhagen china. Formerly the china imitated that of -Miessen, but it has now a more distinctive character, and is chiefly -used in reproducing the works of Thorwaldsen. Copenhagen has no other -especial manufactures. - -No visitors to the Danish capital must omit a visit to Tivoli, the -pretty odd pleasure grounds—very respectable too—near the railway -station, where all kinds of evening amusements are provided in -illuminated gardens and woods by a tiny lake, really very pretty. -Here we watched the cars rushing like a whirlwind down one hill and up -another, with their inmates screaming in pleasurable agony; and saw the -extraordinary feats of 'the Cannon King,' who tossed a cannon ball, -catching it on his hands, his head, his feet—anywhere, and then stood -in front of a cannon and was shot, receiving in his hands the ball, -which did nothing worse than twist him round by its force. - -[Illustration: ROESKILDE.] - -One day we went out—an hour and a half by rail—to Roeskilde, where -a church was first founded by William, an Englishman, in the days of -King Harold Blaatand (Blue-tooth), brother of Canute the Great. It is -dedicated to S. Lucius, because tradition tells that a terrible dragon, -who infested the neighbouring fiord and banqueted on the inhabitants, -was destroyed for ever when the head of the holy Pope S. Lucius was -brought from Rome and presented for his breakfast. The tall spires -of the cathedral rise, slender and grey, from the little town, and -beneath, embosomed in sweeping cornfields, a lovely fiord stretches -away into pale blue distances. Endless kings and queens are buried at -Roeskilde. The earlier sovereigns have glorious tombs, amongst which -the most conspicuous is that of Queen Margaret—'the Semiramis of the -North,' who, born in the prison of Syborg, where her unhappy mother -Queen Helwig was imprisoned by Waldemar Atterhag, and allowed to run -wild in the forest in her childhood, lived to become one of the wisest -of Northern sovereigns, and to unite, by the Act known as 'the Union -of Calmar,' the crowns of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, which attained -unwonted prosperity under her sway. There are effigies of Frederic -II. and Christian IV., the grandfather and uncle of our Charles I., -which recall his type of countenance and have the same peaked beard. -Christian IV., the great palace-builder, whose birth was believed -to have been prophesied by the mermaid Isbrand, was born (April 12, -1577) under a hawthorn tree on the road between Frederiksborg and -Roeskilde, as his mother, Sophia of Mecklenbourg, insisted on taking -walks with her ladies in waiting far longer than was prudent. This -king, his father, and all the later members of his royal house lie, -not in their tombs, but in gorgeous coffins embossed with gold and -silver upon the floor of the church, which has a very odd effect. The -entrance of one of the private chapels is a gate with a huge figure, in -wrought ironwork, of the devil with his tail in his hand. In another -chapel are fine works of Marstrand (1810-75), the best of the pupils -of Eckersberg, who gave the first stimulus to the art of painting in -Denmark, where it has since attained to great eminence. - -[Illustration: THE CASTLE OF FREDERIKSBORG.] - -The district around Roeskilde, and indeed the greater part of Denmark, -is devoted to corn, for there is no country in Europe, except -England and Belgium, which can compete with this as a corn-grower. -It is curious that though the neighbouring Sweden and Norway are so -covered with pines, no conifer will grow in Denmark except under most -careful cultivation. The principal native tree is the beech, and the -beech woods are nowhere more beautiful than in the neighbourhood of -Copenhagen. The railway to Elsinore passes through the beautiful beech -forests which are familiar to us through the stories of Hans Christian -Andersen. Here, near a little roadside station, rises the Hampton Court -of Denmark, the great Castle of Frederiksborg, the most magnificent -of the creations of Christian IV., which John of Friburg erected for -that monarch, who looked personally into the minutest details of -his expenses, and so raised this structure, glorious as it is, with -an economy which greatly astonished his thrifty parliament. In the -depths of the beech woods is a great lake, in the centre of which, on -three islands united by bridges, rises the palace, most beautiful in -its time-honoured hues of red brick and grey stone, with high roofs, -richly sculptured windows, and wondrous towers and spires. Each view -of the castle seems more picturesque than the last. It is a dream -of architectural beauty, to which the great expanse of transparent -waters and the deep verdure of the surrounding woods add a mysterious -charm. A gigantic gate tower admits the visitor to the courtyard, where -Christian IV., with his own hand, chopped off the head of the Master -of the Mint, which he had established here, who had defrauded him. -'He tried to cheat us, but we have cheated him, for we have chopped -his head off,' said the King. Inside, the palace has been gorgeously -restored since a great fire by which it was terribly injured in 1859. -The chapel, with the pew of Christian IV.—'bedekammer,' prayer -chamber, it is called—is most curious. There is a noble series of -the pictures of the native artist Carl Bloch, recalling the works of -Overbeck in their majesty and depth of feeling, but far more forcible. - -A drive of four miles through beech woods leads to the comfortable -later palace of Fredensborg, built as 'a Castle of Peace' by Frederick -IV. and Louisa of Mecklenbourg, with a lovely garden, and a view of the -Esrom lake down green glades, in one of which is a mysterious assembly -of stone statues in Norwegian costumes. - -[Illustration: CASTLE OF ELSINORE.] - -We may either take the railway or drive by Gurre from hence to -Elsinore (Helsingor), where the great castle of Kronberg rises, with -many towers built of grey stone, at the end of the little town on a -low promontory jutting out into the sea. Stately avenues surround -its bastions, and it is delightful to walk upon the platform where -the first scene of Shakspere's 'Hamlet' is laid, and to watch the -numberless ships in the narrow Sound which divides Denmark and -Sweden. The castle is in perfect preservation. It was formerly used -as a palace. Anne of Denmark was married here by proxy to James VI. -of Scotland, and here poor Caroline Matilda sate daily for hours at -her prison window watching vainly for the fleet of England which she -believed was coming to her rescue. Beyond the castle, a sandy plain -reminding us of Scottish links, covered with bent-grass and drifted -by seaweed, extends to Marienlyst, a little fashionable bathing place -embosomed in verdure. Here a Carmelite convent was founded by the wife -of Eric IX., that Queen Philippa—daughter of Henry IV. of England—who -successfully defended Copenhagen against the Hanseatic League, but was -afterwards beaten by her husband, because her ships were defeated at -Stralsund, an indignity which drove her to a monastic life. Hamlet's -Grave and Ophelia's Brook are shown at Marienlyst, having been invented -for anxious inquirers by the complaisant inhabitants. Alas! both -were unknown to Andersen, who lived here in his childhood, and it is -provoking to learn that Hamlet had really no especial connection with -Elsinore, and was the son of a Jutland pirate in the insignificant -island of Mors. But Denmark is the very home of picturesque stories, -which are kept alive there by the ballad literature of the land, -chiefly of the fourteenth or fifteenth centuries, but still known to -rich and poor alike as in no other country. For hundreds of years -these poetical histories have been the tunes to which, in winter, when -no other exercise can be taken, people dance for hours, holding each -other's hands in two lines, making three steps forwards and backwards, -keeping time, balancing, or remaining still for a moment, as they sing -one of their old ballads or its refrain. - -[Illustration: TOWER OF HELSINGBORG CHURCH.] - -It was in a wild evening, with huge blue foam-crested waves rushing -down the Sound, that we crossed in ten minutes to Helsingborg in -Sweden, mounted for the sunset to the one huge remaining tower of its -castle, and sketched as typical of almost all village towers in Denmark -the belfry of the church where King Eric Menred was married to the -Swedish princess Ingeborga. - - - - -_IN SWEDEN._ - - -It is not beautiful in Sweden, but it is very pretty; if everything -were not so very much alike, it would be very pretty indeed. The whole -country as far north as Upsala is like an exaggerated Surrey—little -hills covered with fir-woods and bilberries, brilliant, glistening -little lakes sleeping in sandy hollows, but all just like one another. - -We turned aside in our way from Helsingborg to the north to visit the -old university of Lund, the Oxford of Sweden, a sleepy city, where the -students lead a separate life in lodgings of their own, only being -united in the public lectures; for in Sweden, as in Italy, the taking -of a degree only proves that the graduates have passed a certain number -of examinations, not, as in England, that they have lived together -for three years at least, forming their character and taste by mutual -companionship and intimacy. The cathedral of Lund is a most noble -Norman building, with giants and dwarfs sculptured against the pillars -of its grand crypt, and a glorious archbishop's tomb, green and mossy -with damp. - -[Illustration: THE JUNCTION OF LAKE MALAR AND THE BALTIC, STOCKHOLM.] - -An immense railway journey, by day and night through the endless -forests, brought us to Stockholm, where we arrived in the early -morning. Though the town is little beyond an ugly collection of -featureless modern streets, the situation is quite exquisite, for the -city occupies a succession of islets between Lake Malar and the Baltic, -surrounding, on a central isle, the huge Palace built from stately -designs of Count Tessin in the middle of the last century, and the old -church of Riddarholmen, where Gustavus Adolphus and many other royal -persons repose beneath the banner-hung arches. - -It sounds odd, but, next to the Palace, the most imposing building -in Stockholm is certainly the Grand Hotel Rydberg, which is most -comfortable and economical, in spite of its palatial aspect. There -is no table d'hôte, and everything is paid for at the time, in the -excellent restaurant on the first floor of the hotel. Here, a side -table is always covered with dainties peculiarly Swedish, corn and -birch brandy, and different kinds of potted fish, with fresh butter -and olives, and it is the universal custom in Sweden to attack the -side table before sitting down to the regular dinner. The rooms in -the hotel are excellent, and their front windows overlook all that is -most characteristic in Stockholm—the glorious view down the fiord of -the Baltic: its farther hilly bank covered with houses and churches; -the bridge at the junction of the Baltic and Lake Malar, which is the -centre of life in the capital, and the little pleasure garden below, -where hundreds of people are constantly eating and drinking under the -trees, and whence strains of music are wafted late into the summer -night; the mighty palace dominating the principal island, and the -little steam gondolas, filled with people, which dart and hiss through -the waters from one island to another. In Stockholm, where waters -are many and bridges few, these steam gondolas are the chief means of -communication, and we made great use of them, the passages costing -twelve oëre, or one penny. The great white sea-gulls, poising over the -water-streets or floating upon the waves, are also a striking feature. - -The museums of Stockholm have little to call for any especial notice, -except a grand statue of the sleeping Endymion from the Villa Adriana, -and the curious collection of royal clothes down to the present date, a -gallery of costume like that which once existed in London at the Tower -Royal. The chief curiosity which the Swedish collection contains is -the hat worn by Charles XII. when he was killed, in which the upward -progress of the bullet can be traced, proving that the king's death was -caused by an assassin, and not the result of a chance shot from the -walls of Frederikshald. No especial features mark the interior of the -Palace, though the Royal Stable for a hundred and forty-six horses is -worthy of a visit; and the churches are uninteresting, except perhaps -S. Nicholas, the coronation church, which contains the helmet and -spurs of S. Olaf, stolen from Throndtjem. Riddarholmen can scarcely -be regarded as a church; it is rather a great sepulchral hall hung -with trophies, having a few tombs on the floor of the building, and -vaults opening under the side walls, in which the different groups -of royal persons are buried together in families. Under a chapel on -the left lies Gustavus Adolphus, the justly popular great-grandson of -Gustavus Wasa, who fell at the battle of Lutzen, and who, as soldier, -general, and king, ever knew true merit, and laboured for the glory of -his country rather than for his own. In the opposite chapel repose the -present royal family, descendants of Bernadotte, Prince of Pontecorvo, -the only one of Napoleon's generals whose dynasty still occupies a -throne. He began life as a common soldier, and his election as Charles -XIV. of Sweden was chiefly due to the kindness with which he treated -Swedish prisoners taken in the Pomeranian wars. But the Swedes have -never had cause to repent of their choice, and their reigning house is -probably the most popular in Europe. The coffins of those members of -the royal family who have died within the memory of man are ever laden -with fresh flowers. - -Close by the Riddarholmen Church is the most picturesque bit of -street architecture in Stockholm, where a statue of Burger Jarl, the -traditional founder of the town, forms a foreground to the chapel of -Gustavus Adolphus and one of the many bridges. - -[Illustration: RIDDARHOLMEN, STOCKHOLM.] - -In saying that Stockholm is not picturesque one may seem to have -spoken disparagingly, but, nevertheless, it is perfectly charming: -there is so much life and movement upon its blue waters, and its many -little public gardens give such a gay aspect to the buildings. Of -these, the chief is the Kongsträgården, surrounding a statue of Charles -XIII., where the pleasant Café Blanche is filled all the evening with -an animated crowd, gossiping and eating ices under the verandah and -shrubberies, and listening to the music. While we were staying in -Stockholm a hundred Upsala students came in their white caps to sing -national melodies in the Catherina Church. We lived through two hours -of fearful heat to hear them, and most beautiful it was. King Oscar II. -was present—a noble royal figure and handsome face. He is the ideal -sovereign of the age—artist, poet, musician, student, equally at home -in ancient and modern languages, profoundly versed in all his duties, -and nobly performing them. - -We had intended going often, as the natives do, to dine amongst -the trees and flowers at Hasselbacken, in the Djurgården, a wooded -promontory, to which little steamers are always plying, but, alas! -during eight of the ten July days we spent at Stockholm it rained -incessantly. We were so cold that we were thankful for all the winter -clothes we brought with us, and were filled with pity for the poor -Swedes in being cheated out of their short summer, of which every day -is precious. The streets were always sopping, but, in the covered -gondolas, we managed several excursions to quiet, damp palaces on the -banks of lonely fiords—Rosendal, remarkable for a grand porphyry vase -in a brilliant little flower garden; and Ulriksdal, with its clipped -avenues and melancholy creek. - -Our limited knowledge of Swedish often caused us to embark in amusing -ignorance as to whither we were going, and led us into many a surprise. -One day we set off, intending to go to Drottningholm, but, on reaching -the quay, found the steamer just gone. At that moment such a fearful -storm of rain came on that we were obliged to rush for shelter wherever -we could, and the nearest point of refuge was the deck of the steamer -_Mary_, which instantly started. We feared we might be bound for -the Baltic, and, failing to make any one understand us, resolved to -disembark at the first landing-place. But then the rain was worse than -ever, and we allowed ourselves to be carried on down Lake Malar, till -our boat turned into a little creek, and landed us on the pier of a -manufacturing town. We had not reached the end of the pier, however, -before the rain came on again in such convulsive torrents that we fled -back to the _Mary_, which again started on its travels, and this time, -after stopping at many little ports, conveyed us back to Stockholm. -When we asked the captain what we were to pay for our voyage, he said, -'Oh, nothing;' and very much amused he and his crew seemed to be by our -ignorance and adventures. - -[Illustration: THE GRAVES OF THE GODS.] - -We had a fine day for our excursion by railway to Upsala, whence we -hired a little carriage to take us on to Old Upsala, about three -miles distant. A drive across a dull, marshy plain brings one to a -delightfully wild district of downs, covered with hundreds of little -sepulchral mounds like Wiltshire barrows, amid which three great -tumuli, standing close together, are said to mark the graves of Odin, -Thor, and Freya—heroes in their lifetime, gods in their death. Close -beside them for centuries rose the temple which was the most sacred -shrine of Scandinavian worship. It glittered all over with gold, and -a golden chain, nine hundred ells in circumference, ran round its -roof. In the temple were three statues, around which hovered all the -principal mythological traditions of the north. The central figure was -that of Odin or Wodan, the wizard-king, who is said to have come in -the dawn of Swedish history from his domains of Asir, which extended -from the Euxine to the Caspian, and whose capital was Asgard. He -landed in Funen, where he founded Odense, and left his son Skjöld as a -sovereign. Thence he passed into Sweden, and established his government -at Sigtuna, not far from Upsala. His existence is affirmed by the Saxon -Chronicle. He was called 'the Father of Victory,' for if he laid his -hands on the heads of his generals, and predicted their success when -they went out to battle, that success never failed them. He was also, -says Snorro Sturlesen, 'the Father of all the arts of modern Europe.' -Tradition has endowed him with every miraculous power. He could change -his looks at pleasure—to his friends most beautiful, but a demon to -his enemies. By his eloquence he captivated all who heard him, and -as he always spoke in verse he was called 'the Artificer of Song.' -His verses were endowed with such magic power that they could strike -his enemies with blindness or deafness, or could blunt their weapons. -To listen to the sweetness of his music even the ghosts would come -forth and the mountains would unfold their inmost recesses. He was -the inventor of Runic characters. He could slaughter thousands at a -blow, and he could render his own followers invulnerable. At his will -he could assume the form of beasts; at his word the fire would cease -to burn, the wind to blow, or the sea to rage. If he hurled his spear -between two armies, it secured victory to those on whose side it fell. -The dwarfs (Lapps) had built for him a ship called _Skidbladner_, in -which he could cross the most dangerous seas with safety; but when -he did not want to use it, he could fold it up like a handkerchief. -Everything was known to Odin, for did he not possess the mummified head -of his enemy Mimir, which was all-wise, and he had only to consult it? -Yet, with all these gifts and attributes, Odin remained human; he had -no power over death. When he felt his end approaching he assembled -all his friends and followers, and, giving himself nine wounds in -a circle, allowed himself to bleed to death. The body of the great -chieftain was burnt, and his ashes were buried under the mound of -Upsala; but his spirit was believed to have gone back to the marvellous -home in the Valhalla of Asgard, of which he had so often spoken, and -whither he had always said that he should return. Henceforward it was -considered that all blessings and mercies were gifts sent by Odin. -The younger Edda tells that all who die in battle are Odin's adopted -children. The Valkyriae pick them out upon the battle-field and conduct -them to the Valhalla, where they have perpetual life in the halls -of Odin. Their days are spent in hunting or the joys of imaginary -combats, and they return at night to feast upon the inexhaustible -flesh of the boar Sahrimnir, and to drink, out of horn cups, the mead -formed from the milk of a single goat, which is strong enough nightly -to intoxicate all the heroes. Huge logs constantly burn within the -palace of Odin, for warmth is the northern idea of heaven, while in -their hell it is eternal winter. When a Scandinavian chieftain died in -battle, not only were his war-horse and all his gold and silver placed -upon his funeral-pyre, but all his followers slew themselves that he -might enter the halls of Odin properly attended. The more glorious the -chieftain the greater the number who must accompany him to Valhalla. -To rejoin Odin in Asgard became the height of a warrior's ambition. -It is recorded of Ragnar Lodbrok that when he was dying no word of -lamentation was heard from him: on the contrary, he was transported -with joy as he thought of the feast preparing for him in Odin's -palace. 'Soon, soon,' he exclaimed, 'I shall be seated in the pleasant -habitation of the gods, and drinking mead out of carved horns! A brave -man does not dread death, and I shall utter no word of fear as I enter -the halls of Odin.' But stranger than all the legends concerning Odin -is the fact that his memory is still so far fresh that 'Go to Odin' is -yet used by the common people where an uncivil wish as to the lower -regions would find expression in England. The fourth day of the week -still commemorates Odin or Wodan—in old Norse Odinsdgr, in Swedish and -Danish Onsdag, in English Wednesday. - -On the right hand of Odin, in the temple of Upsala, sate the statue of -Freyja, or Freyer, represented as a hermaphrodite, with the attributes -of productiveness. Freyja was the goddess of love, who rode in a car -drawn by wild cats. She knew beforehand all that would happen, and -divided the souls of the dead with Odin. She is commemorated in the -sixth day of the week, that Freytag or Freyja's Day which in Latin is -Dies Veneris, or Venus' Day. - -On the left of Odin sate Thor, who, says the Edda, was 'the most -valiant of the sons of Odin.' He was the offspring of Odin and Frigga, -'the mother of the gods,' and the brother of 'Balder the Beautiful.' As -the defender and avenger of the gods, he was represented as carrying -the hammer with which he destroyed the giants, and which always -returned to his hand when he threw it. He wore iron gauntlets, and had -a girdle which doubled his strength when he put it on. The fifth day -of the week was sacred to Thor, in old Norse Thórsdag, in Swedish and -Danish Torsdag, in English Thursday; in Latin Dies Jovis, for Jupiter, -the God of Thunder, had the same attributes as Thor. - -There were three great festivals at Upsala, when multitudes flocked to -the temple to consult its famous oracles or to sacrifice. The first was -the winter festival of 'Mother Night'—saturnalia in honour of Frey, -or the sun, to invoke the blessings of a fruitful year; the second -feast was in honour of the Earth; the third was in honour of Odin, to -propitiate the Father of Battles. Every ninth year, at least, the king -and all persons of distinction were expected to appear before the great -temple, and nine victims were chosen for human sacrifice—captives in -time of war, slaves in time of peace—'I send thee to Odin' being the -consolatory last words spoken to each as he fell. If public calamities -had been caused by any royal mismanagement, the people chose their king -as a sacrifice; thus the first king of the petty province of Vermeland -was burnt to appease Odin during a famine. It is also recorded that -King Aun sacrificed his nine sons to obtain a prolongation of his own -life. The victims were either hewn down or burnt in the temple itself, -or hung in the grove adjoining—'Odin's Grove'—of which every leaf was -sacred. Still, according to the Voluspa, the famous prophecy of Vela, -at the end of the world even Odin, with all the other pagan deities, -will perish in the general chaos, when a new earth of celestial beauty -will arise upon the ruins of the old. - -[Illustration: THE CHURCH OF OLD UPSALA.] - -One of the most curious little churches in Christendom now stands upon -the site of the ancient temple. The apse is evidently built out of the -pagan sanctuary. The belfry, Swedish-fashion, is detached, built of -massive timbers and painted bright red. There are scarcely any human -habitations near, only the mighty barrows, overgrown with wild thyme -and a thousand other flowers, which rise over the graves of the gods. -In the tomb of Odin the Government still gives the mead, which was the -nectar of Scandinavian heroes, to pilgrim visitors. - -Like most of the Swedish towns, Upsala is disappointing, and its mean, -ill-paved streets show few signs of antiquity. At the east end of the -cathedral is the lofty tomb of Gustavus Wasa, the first Protestant -King of Sweden, whose effigy lies between the charming figures of -his two pretty little wives. In 1519 he was carried off as a hostage -by that Christian, King of Denmark, who forcibly made himself King -of Sweden also, and ruled with savage tyranny. Escaping to Lübeck, -he headed a revolutionary party against the tyrant, and, after many -defeats, succeeded in taking Stockholm, where he was made king in 1523. -Soon after, Olaf Petri's translation of the New Testament led to the -Reformation in Sweden, where Gustavus Wasa was another Henry VIII., in -taking the opportunity of seizing two-thirds of the Church revenues, -and depriving all ecclesiastics of their incomes if they refused to -embrace Lutheranism. One of his daughters-in-law was the famous Polish -princess, Queen Catherine Jagellonica, who tried hard to upset the new -religion, and inculcated Catholicism upon her son, King Sigismund, who -was deposed, on religious grounds, in favour of his uncle, Charles IX., -the father of Gustavus Adolphus. This Queen Catherine Jagellonica has -a fine tomb in a side chapel of Upsala Cathedral. - -[Illustration: GRIPSHOLM.] - -On a brilliant July morning we embarked at Stockholm in the steamer -which runs twice a week down Lake Malar to Gripsholm. Most lovely were -the long reaches of still water with their fringe of russet rocks, -every crevice tufted with birch and dwarf mountain ash, opening here -and there to show some red timber houses or a wooden spire. It was -several hours of soft diorama, with the music of the pines, before the -great castle of Gripsholm, the Windsor of Sweden, came in sight, with -its many red towers and Eastern-looking domes and cupolas. We were -landed at the little pier of Mariefred, in itself a lovely scene, with -old trees feathering into the water, and a picturesque church rising -in a grove of walnuts on a green hill behind. Hard by is a little inn -where the whole of the passengers in the steamer dined together, at -many little tables, the great staple of food being fresh trout and -salmon of the lake, the bilberries and cloudberries of the rocks, and -the birch brandy and wild strawberries from the woods. After dinner -every one trooped along the meadow paths to the castle, and rambled -in friendly companionship over its numerous rooms, full of interest, -and with many curious royal portraits and pieces of ancient furniture. -There are endless historic recollections connected with Gripsholm, -but they centre for the most part around the sons of Gustavus Wasa. -Of these, John was immured here by Eric XIV., with his wife Catherine -Jagellonica, who, during her imprisonment, gave birth to her son -Sigismund (afterwards Sigismund III. of Poland), in a box-bed which -still remains. Eric intended to have put his brother to death, but -when he entered his cell for the purpose was so overcome by fraternal -feeling that he begged his pardon instead. That pardon was not granted, -for when John got the upper hand he imprisoned Eric in a small chamber -at the top of the castle, where he languished for ten years, during -which he wrote a treatise on military art, and translated the history -of Johannes Magnus, and where—in the end—he was poisoned. - - - - -_IN NORWAY._ - - -The weather changed to a cloudless sunshine, which hatched all the -mosquitoes, as we entered Norway in the second week in July, and the -heat was so intense that, in the long railway journey from Stockholm, -we were very thankful for the little tank of iced water with which -each railway carriage is provided. We were disappointed in Kristiania, -which is a very dull place. The town was built by Christian IV. of -Denmark, and has a good central church of his time, but it is utterly -unpicturesque. In the picture gallery are several noble works of -Tidemann, the special painter of expression and pathos. As a companion -for life is the memory of a picture which represents the administration -of the last sacrament to an old peasant, whose wife's grief is turned -to resignation, which ceases even to have a wish for his retention, as -she beholds the heaven-born comfort with which he is looking into an -unknown future. Another of the finest works of the artist represents -the reception of the sacrament by a convict, young and deeply -repentant, before his execution. - -There is no striking scenery in the environs of Kristiania, but they -are wonderfully pretty. From the avenues upon the ramparts you look -down over the broad expanse of the fyord, with low blue mountain -distances. Little steamers dart backwards and forwards, and convey -visitors in a few minutes across the bay to Oscars Halle, a tower and -small country villa of the king on a wooded knoll. - -We went by the railway which winds high amongst the hills to Kongsberg, -a mining village in a lofty situation. Here, in a garden of white -roses, there is a most comfortable small hotel kept by a Dane, which -is a capital starting-point for all expeditions in Telemarken. There -is a pretty waterfall near the village, and the church should be -visited, for the sake of its curious pulpit hour-glass—indeed, four -glasses—quarter, half-hour, three-quarters, hour—and the top of a -stool let into the wall with an inscription saying that Mr. Jacobus -Stuart, King of Scotland (James I. of England), sate upon it, Nov. 25, -1589, to hear a sermon preached by Mr. David Lentz, 'between 11 and -12,' on 'The Lord is my Shepherd.' - -We engaged a carriage at Kongsberg for the excursion to Tinoset, whence -we arranged to go on to the Ryukan Foss, said to be the highest -waterfall in Europe. We do not advise future travellers without -unlimited time to follow us in the latter part of the expedition by -the lake, but the carriage excursion is quite enchanting. What an -exquisite drive it is through the forest—the deep ever-varying woods -of noble pines and firs springing from luxuriant thickets of junipers, -bilberries, and cranberries! The loveliest mountain flowers grow in -these woods—huge larkspurs of rank luxuriant foliage and flowers -of faint dead blue; pinks and blue lungworts and orchids; stagmoss -wreathing itself round the grey rocks, and delicate, lovely soldanella -drooping in the still recesses. - -Our midday halt was at Bolkesjö, where the forest opens to green -lawns, hill-set, with a charming view down the smooth declivities to -a many-bayed lake, with mountain distances. Here, amid a group of old -brown farm-buildings covered with rude paintings and sculpture, is a -farmhouse, inhabited by the same family through many generations. It -is one of the 'stations' where it is part of the duty of the farmer -or 'bonder' who is owner of the soil to find horses for the use of -travellers. These horses are supplied at a very trifling charge, and -are brought back by a boy who sits behind the carriole or carriage -upon the portmanteau: but as the horses, when not called for, are -turned loose or used by the bonder in his own farm or field work, -travellers generally have to wait a long time while they are caught -or sent for. They order their horses '_strax_'—directly—one of the -first words an Englishman learns to use on entering Norway, yet they -scarcely ever appear before half an hour, so that Norwegians repeat -with amusement the story of an Englishman who, when he wished to spend -an hour at a station, ordered his horses 'after two strax's.' These -halts are not always congenial to English impatience, yet they give -opportunities of becoming acquainted with Norwegian life and people -which can be obtained in no other way, and recollection will oftener -go back to the quiet time spent in waiting for horses amid the grey -rocks above some foaming streamlet, in the green oases surrounded by -forest, or in clean-boarded rooms strewn with fresh fir foliage, than -to the more established sights of Norway. Most delicious indeed were -the two hours which we passed at Bolkesjö, in the high pastures where -the peasants were mowing the tall grass ablaze with flowers, and the -mountains were throwing long purple shadows over the forest, and the -wind blowing freshly from the gleaming lake—and then, most delicious -was the well-earned meal of eggs and bacon, strawberries and cream, and -other homely dainties in the farmhouse where the beams and furniture -were all painted and carved with mottoes and texts, and the primitive -box-beds had crimson satin quilts. Portraits sent by well-pleased royal -visitors hung on the walls side by side with common-coloured scripture -prints, like those which are found in English cottages. The cellar -is under a bed, beneath which it was funny to see the old farmeress -disappear as she went down to fetch up for us her home-brewed ale. - -[Illustration: BOLKESJÖ.] - -With the cordial 'likkelie reise' of our old hostess in our ears, we -left Bolkesjö full of pleasant thoughts. But what roads, or rather what -want of roads, lead to Tinoset!—there were banks of glassy rock, up -which our horses scrambled like cats; there were awful moments when -everything seemed to come to an end, and when they gathered up their -legs, and seemed to fling themselves down headlong with the carriage on -the top of them, and yet we reached the bottom of the abyss buried in -dust, to rise gasping and gulping and wondering we were alive, to begin -the same pantomime over again. - -Late in the evening, long after the sunlight had faded, and when the -forests seemed to have gone to sleep and all sounds were silent, we -reached Tinoset. The inn is a wooden châlet on the banks of a lake with -a single great pine-tree close to the door. It was terribly crowded, -and the little wooden cells were the smallest apology for bedrooms, -where all through the night we heard the winds howling among the -mountains, and the waves lashing the shore under the windows. In the -morning the lake was covered with huge blue waves crested with foam, -and we were almost sorry when the steamer came and we felt obliged to -embark, because, as it was not the regular day for its passage, we -had summoned it at some expense from the other end of the lake. We -were thoroughly wet with the spray before we reached the little inn -at Strand, with a pier where we disembarked, and occupied the rest -of the afternoon in drawing the purple hills, and the road winding -towards them through the old birch-trees. An excursion to the Ryukan -Foss occupied the next day; a dull drive through the plain, and then -an exciting skirting of horrible precipices, followed by a clamber -up a mountain pathlet to a châlet, where we were thankful for our -well-earned dinner of trout and ale before proceeding to the Foss, -the 560-feet-high fall of a mountain torrent into a black rift in the -hills—a boiling, roaring abyss of water, with drifts of spray which -are visible for miles before it can be seen itself. - -[Illustration: OLD CHURCH OF HITTERDAL.] - -In returning from Tinoset, we took the way by Hitterdal, the -date-forgotten old wooden church so familiar from picture-books. It -had been our principal object in coming to Norway, yet the long drive -had made us so ravenous in search of food that we could only endure -to stay there half an hour. The church, however, is most intensely -picturesque, rising with an infinity of quaintest domes and spires, -all built of timber, out of a rude cloister painted red, the whole -having the appearance of a very tall Chinese pagoda, yet only measuring -altogether 84 feet by 57. The belfry, Norwegian-wise, stands alone -on the other side of the churchyard, which is overgrown with pink -willow-herb. When we reached the inn, as famished as wolves in winter, -we were told by our landlady that she could not give us any dinner. -'Nei, nei,' nothing would induce her—she had too much work on her -hands already—perhaps, however, the woman at the house with the flag -would give us some. So, hungry and faint, we walked forth again to a -house which had a flag flying in front of it, where all was silent and -deserted, except for a dog who received us furiously. Having pacified -him, and finding the front door locked, we made good our entrance at -the back, examined the kitchen, peeped into all the cupboards, lifted -up the lids of all the saucepans, and not till we had searched every -corner for food ineffectually, were met by the pretty, pleasant-looking -young lady of the house, who informed us in excellent English, and -with no small surprise at our conduct, that we had been committing a -raid upon her private residence. Afterwards we discovered a lonely -farmhouse, where there had once been a flag, and where they gave -us a very good dinner, ending in a great bowl of cloudberries—in -which we were joined by two pleasant young ladies and their father, -an old gentleman smoking an enormous long pipe, who turned out -to be the Bishop of Christiansand. The house of the landamann of -Hitterdal contains a relic connected with a picturesque story quaintly -illustrative of ancient Scandinavian life. It is an axe, with a handle -projecting beyond the blade, and curved, so that it can be used as a -walking-stick. Formerly it belonged to an ancient descendant of the -Kongen, or chieftains of the district, who insisted upon carrying it to -church with him in accordance with an old privilege. The priest forbade -the bearing of the warlike weapon into church, which so much affected -the old man that he died. His son, who thought it necessary to avenge -his father's death, went to the priest with the axe in his hands, -and demanded the most precious thing he possessed—when the priest -brought his Bible and gave it to him, open upon a passage exhorting to -forgiveness of injuries. - -[Illustration: THRONDTJEM FYORD.] - -On July 25 we left Kristiania for Throndtjem—the whole journey -of three hundred and sixty miles being very comfortable, and only -costing 30 francs. The route has no great beauty, but endless pleasant -variety—rail to Eidswold, with bilberries and strawberries in pretty -birch-bark baskets for sale at all the railway stations; a vibrating -steamer for several hours on the long, dull Miosen lake; railway again, -with some of the carriages open at the sides; then an obligatory night -at Koppang, a large station, where accommodation is provided for every -one, but where, if there are many passengers, several people, strangers -to each other, are expected to share the same room. On the second day -the scenery improves, the railway sometimes running along and sometimes -over the river Glommen, on a wooden causeway, till the gorge of -mountains opens beyond Stören, into a rich country with turfy mounds -constantly reminding us of the graves of the hero-gods of Upsala. -Towards sunset, beyond the deep cleft in which the river Nid runs -between lines of old painted wooden warehouses, rises the burial-place -of S. Olaf, the shrine of Scandinavian Christianity, the stumpy-towered -cathedral of Throndtjem. The most northern railway station and the most -northern cathedral in Europe! - -[Illustration: THRONDTJEM CATHEDRAL.] - -Surely the cradle of Scandinavian Christianity is one of the most -beautiful places in the world! No one had ever told us about it, and we -went there only because it is the old Throndtjem of sagas and ballads, -and expecting a wonderful and beautiful cathedral. But the whole place -is a dream of loveliness, so exquisite in the soft silvery morning -light on the fyord and delicate mountain ranges, the rich nearer hills -covered with bilberries and breaking into steep cliffs—that one -remains in a state of transport, which is at a climax while all is -engraven upon an opal sunset sky, when an amethystine glow spreads over -the mountains, and when ships and buildings meet their double in the -still, transparent water. Each wide street of curious low wooden houses -displays a new vista of sea, of rocky promontories, of woods dipping -into the water; and at the end of the principal street is the grey -massive cathedral where S. Olaf is buried, and where northern art and -poetry have exhausted their loveliest and most pathetic fancies around -the grave of the national hero. - -The 'Cathedral Garden,' for so the graveyard is called, is most -touching. Acres upon acres of graves are all kept—not by officials, -but by the families they belong to—like gardens. The tombs are -embowered in roses and honeysuckle, and each little green mound has -its own vase for cut flowers daily replenished, and a seat for the -survivors, which is daily occupied, so that the link between the dead -and the living is never broken. - -Christianity was first established in Norway at the end of the tenth -century by King Olaf Trygveson, son of Trygve and of the lady Astrida, -whose romantic adventures, when sold as a slave after her husband's -death, are the subject of a thousand stories. When Olaf succeeded to -the throne of Norway after the death of Hako, son of Sigurd, in 996, he -proclaimed Christianity throughout his dominions, heard matins daily -himself, and sent out missionaries through his dominions. But the duty -of the so-called missionaries had little to do with teaching, they were -only required to baptize. All who refused baptism were tortured and put -to death. When, at one time, the estates of the province of Throndtjem -tried to force Olaf back to the old religion, he outwardly assented, -but made the condition that the offended pagan deities should in that -case be appeased by human sacrifice—the sacrifice of the twelve nobles -who were most urgent in compelling him; and upon this the ardour of the -chieftains for paganism was cooled, and they allowed Olaf unhindered to -demolish the great statue of Thor, covered with gold and jewels, in the -centre of the province of Throndtjem, where he founded the city then -called Nidaros, upon the river Nid. - -No end of stories are narrated of the cruelties of Olaf Trygveson. -When Egwind, a northern chieftain, refused to abandon his idols, -he first attempted to bribe him, but, when gentler means failed, a -chafing-dish of hot coals was placed upon his belly till he died. Raude -the magician had a more horrible fate: an adder was forced down a horn -into his stomach, and left to eat its way out again! - -The first Christian king of Norway was an habitual drunkard, and, by -twofold adultery, he, the husband of Godruna, married Thyra of Denmark, -the wife of Duke Borislaf of Pomerania. This led to a war with Denmark -and Sweden, whose united fleets surrounded him near Stralsund. As much -mystery enshrouds the story of his death as is connected with that of -Arthur, Barbarossa, or Harold: as his royal vessel, the _Long Serpent_, -was boarded by the enemy, he plunged into the sea and was no more seen, -though some chroniclers say that he swam to the shore in safety and -died afterwards at Rome, whither he went on pilgrimage. - -Olaf Trygveson had a godson Olaf, son of Harald Grenske and Asta, -who had the nominal title of king given to all sea captains of royal -descent. From his twelfth year, Olaf Haraldsen was a pirate, and he -headed the band of Danes who destroyed Canterbury and murdered S. -Elphege—a strange feature in the life of one who has been himself -regarded as a saint since his death. By one of the strange freaks of -fortune common in those times, this Olaf Haraldsen gained a great -victory over the chieftain Sweyn, who then ruled at Nidaros, and, -chiefly through the influence of Sigurd Syr, a great northern landowner -who had become the second husband of his mother, he became seated in -1016 upon the throne of Norway. His first care was for the restoration -of Christianity, which had fallen into decadence in the sixteen years -which had elapsed since the defeat of Olaf Trygveson. The second Olaf -imitated the violence and cruelty of his predecessor. Whenever the new -religion was rejected, he beheaded or hung the delinquents. In his -most merciful moments he mutilated and blinded them: 'he did not spare -one who refused to serve God.' After fourteen years of unparalleled -cruelties in the name of religion, he fell in battle with Canute the -Great at Sticklestadt. He had abducted and married Astrida, daughter -of the King of Sweden, but by her he had no children. By his concubine -Alfhilda he left an only son, who lived to become Magnus the Good, -King of Norway. There is a very fine story of the way in which Magnus -obtained his name. Olaf had said, 'I very seldom sleep, and if I ever -do it will be the worse for any one who awakens me.' Whilst he was -asleep Alfhilda's child was born. Then the King's scald or poet and -Siegfried the mass priest debated together as to whether they should -awaken him. At first they thought they would; then the poet said, 'No; -I know him better than that: he must not be awakened.' 'That is all -very well,' said the priest, 'but the child must be baptised at once. -What shall we call him?' 'Oh,' said the scald, 'I know that the King -said that the child should be named after the greatest monarch that -ever lived, and his name was Magnus,' for he only remembered one part -of the name. So they called him Magnus. - -When the King woke up he was furious. 'Who can have dared to do this -thing—to christen the child without consulting me, and to give him -this outlandish name, which is no name at all—who can have dared to do -it?' - -Then the mass priest was terrified and shrank into his shoes, but the -scald answered boldly, 'I did it, and I did it because it was better to -send two souls to God than one soul to the devil; for if the child had -died unbaptised it would have been lost, but if you kill Siegfried and -me we shall go straight to heaven.' - -And then King Olaf thought he would say no more about it. - -However terrible the cruelties of Olaf Haraldsen were in his lifetime, -they were soon dazzled out of sight amid the halo of miracles with -which his memory was encircled by the Roman Catholic Church. It was -only recollected that when, according to the legend, he raced for the -kingdom with his half-brother Harald, in his good ship the _Ox_, - - Saint Olaf, who on God relied, - Three days the first his house descried; - -after which - - Harald so fierce with anger burned - He to a lothely dragon turned; - -but because - - A pious zeal Saint Olaf bore, - He long the crown of Norway wore. - -His admirers narrated that when he was absently cutting chips from -a stick with his knife on a Sunday, a servant passed him with the -reproof, 'Sir, it is Monday to-morrow,' when he placed the sinful chips -in his hand, and, setting them on fire, bore the pain till they were -all consumed. It was remembered that as he walked to the church which -Olaf Trygveson had founded at Nidaros, he 'wore a glory in his yellow -hair.' And gradually he became the most popular saint of Scandinavia. -His shirt was an object of pilgrimage in the Church of S. Victor -at Paris, and many churches were dedicated to him in England, and -especially in London, where Tooley Street still records his familiar -appellation of S. Tooley. - -It was when the devotion to S. Olaf was just beginning that Earl Godwin -and his sons were banished from England for a time. Two of these, -Harold and Tosti, became vikings, and, in a great battle, they vowed -that, if they were victorious, they would give half the spoil to the -shrine of S. Olaf; and a huge silver statue, which they actually gave, -existed at Throndtjem till 1500, and if it existed still would be one -of the most important relics in archæology. The old Kings of Norway -used to dig up the saint from time to time and cut his nails. When -Harold Hardrada was going to England, he declared that he must see S. -Olaf once again. 'I must see my brother once more,' he said, and he -also cut the saint's nails. But he also thought that from that time it -would be better that no one should see his brother any more—it would -not be for the good of the Church—so he took the keys of the shrine -and threw them into the fyord; at the same time however, he said it -would be good for men in after-ages to know what a great king was like, -so he caused S. Olaf's measure to be engraved upon the wall in the -church at Throndtjem—his measure of seven feet—and there it is still. - -[Illustration: S. OLAF'S WELL.] - -Around the shrine of Olaf in Throndtjem, in which, in spite of Harold -Hardrada, his 'incorrupt body' was seen more than five hundred years -after his death, has arisen the most beautiful of northern cathedrals, -originating in a small chapel built over his grave within ten years -after his death. The exquisite colour of its green-grey stone adds -greatly to the general effect of the interior, and to the delicate -sculpture of its interlacing arches. From the ambulatory behind the -choir opens a tiny chamber containing the Well of S. Olaf, of rugged -yellow stone, with the holes remaining in the pavement through which -the dripping water ran away when the buckets were set down. Amongst the -many famous Bishops of Throndtjem, perhaps the most celebrated has been -Anders Arrebo, 'the father of Danish poetry' (1587-1637), who wrote -the 'Hexameron,' an extraordinarily long poem on the Creation, which -nobody reads now. The cathedral is given up to Lutheran worship, but -its ancient relics are kindly tended and cared for, and the building -is being beautifully restored. Its beautiful Chapter House is lent for -English service on Sundays. - -In the wide street which leads from the sea to the cathedral is the -'Coronation House,' the wooden palace in which the Kings and Queens of -Sweden and Norway stay when they come hither to be crowned. Hither the -present beloved Queen, Sophie of Nassau, came in 1873, driving herself -in her own carriole from the Romsdal, in graceful compliance with -the popular mode of Norwegian travel. It is because even the finest -buildings in Norway are generally built of wood that there are so few -of any real antiquity. Near the shore of the fyord, the custom-house -occupies the site of the Orething, where the elections of twenty kings -have taken place. It is sacred ground to a King of Norway, who passes -it bareheaded. The familiar affection with which the Norwegians regard -their sovereigns can scarcely be comprehended in any other country. -To their people they are 'the father and mother of the land.' The -broken Norse is remembered at Throndtjem in which King Carl Johann -begged people 'to make room for their old father' when they pressed too -closely upon him. When the present so beloved Queen drove herself to -her coronation, the people met her with flowers at all the 'stations' -where the horses were changed. 'Are you the mother of the land?' they -said. 'You look nice, but you must do more than look nice; that is not -the essential.' One old woman begged the lady in waiting to beg her -majesty to get upon the roof of the house. 'Then we should all see -her.' At Throndtjem the peasants touchingly and affectionately always -addressed her as 'Du.' - -In returning from Throndtjem we left the railway at Stören, where we -engaged a double carriole, and a carriage for four with a pleasant boy -called Johann as its driver, for the return journey. It was difficult -to obtain definite information about anything, English books being -almost useless from their incorrectness, and we set off with a sort of -sense of exploring an unknown country. At every 'station' we changed -horses, which were sent back by the boy, who perched upon the luggage -behind, and we marked our distances by calling our horses after the -Kings of England. Thus, setting off from Stören with William the -Conqueror, we drove into the Romsdal with Edward VI. After a drive -with Lady Jane Grey, we set off again with Mary. But the Kings of -England failed us long before our driving days were over, and we used -up all the Kings of Rome also. As we were coming down a steep hill into -Lillehammer with Tarquinius Superbus, something gave way and he quietly -walked out of the harness, leaving us to run briskly down-hill and -subside into the hedge. We captured Tarquinius, but how to put him in -again was a mystery, as we had never harnessed a horse before. However, -by trying every strap in turn we got him in somehow, and escaped the -fate of Red Riding Hood amid the lonely hills. - -For a great distance after leaving Stören there is little especially -striking in the scenery, except one gorge of old weird pine-trees in a -rift of purple mountains. After you emerge upon the high Dovre-Fyeld, -the huge ranges of Sneehatten rise snowy, gleaming, and glorious, above -the wide yellow-grey expanse, hoary with reindeer moss, though, as the -Dovre-Fyeld is itself three thousand feet high, and Sneehatten only -seven thousand three hundred, it does not look so high as it really is. -Next to Throndtjem itself, the old ballads and songs of Norway gather -most thickly around the Dovre-Fyeld. It is here that the witches are -supposed to hold their secret meetings at their Blokulla, or black -hill. Across these yellow hills of the Jerkin-Fyeld the prose Edda -describes Thor striding to his conflict with the dragon Jormangandur -'by Sneehatten's peak of snow,' where 'the tall pines cracked like a -field of stubble under his feet;' and here, according to the ancient -fragment called the ballad of 'The Twelve Wizards,' as given in Prior's -'Ancient Danish Ballads'— - - At Dovrefeld, over on Norway's reef, - Were heroes who never knew pain or grief. - - There dwelt there many a warrior keen, - The twelve bold brothers of Ingeborg queen. - - The first with his hand the storm could hush - The second could stop the torrent's rush. - - The third could dive in the sea as a fish; - The fourth never wanted meat on dish. - - The fifth he would strike the golden lyre, - And young and old to the dancing fire. - - The sixth on the horn would blow a blast, - Who heard it would shudder and stand aghast. - - The seventh go under the earth could he; - The eighth he could dance on the rolling sea. - - The ninth tamed all that in greenwood crept; - The tenth not a nap had ever slept. - - The eleventh the grisly lindworm bound, - And will what he would, the means he found. - - The twelfth he could all things understand, - Though done in a nook of the farthest land. - - Their equals were never seen there in the North, - Nor anywhere else on the face of the earth. - -In spite of great fatigue from the distances to be accomplished, each -day's journey in carriage or carriole has its peculiar charms, the -going on and on into an unknown land, meeting no one, sleeping in odd, -primitive, but always clean rooms, setting off again at half-past five -or six, and halting at comfortable stations, with their ever-moderate -prices and their cheery farm-servants, who kissed our hands all -round on receiving the very smallest gratuity—a coin meaning -twopence-halfpenny being a source of ecstatic bliss. - -The 'bonders,' who keep the stations, generally themselves represent -the gentry of the country, the real gentry filling the position of the -English aristocracy. The bonders are generally very well off, having -small tithes, good houses, boundless fuel, a great variety of food, -and continual change of labour on their own small properties. Their -wives, who never walk, have a sledge for winter, and a carriole and -horse to take them to church in summer. In the many months of snow, -when the cows and horses are all stabled in the 'laave,' and when -out-of-door occupations fail, they occupy the time with household -pursuits—carpentering, tailoring, or brewing. When a bonder dies, his -wife succeeds to his property until her second marriage; then it is -divided amongst his children. - -The 'stations' or farmhouses are almost entirely built of wood, but -those of a superior class have a single room of stone, used only in -bridals or births, a custom handed down from old times when a place of -special safety was required at those seasons. - -Nine-tenths of the country are covered with pine-forests, but the trees -are always cut down before they grow old. We did not see a single old -tree in Norway. The pines are of two kinds only—the _Furu_, our pine, -_Pinus silvestris_; and the _Gran_, our fir, _Pinus abies_. - -Wolves seldom appear except in winter, when those who travel in sledges -are often pursued by them. Then hunger makes them so bold that they -will often snatch a dog from between the knees of a driver. - -From the station of Dombaas (where there is a telegraph station and a -shop of old silver) we turned aside down the Romsdal, which soon became -beautiful, as the road wound above the chrysoprase river Rauma, broken -by many rocky islets and swirling into many waterfalls, but always -equally radiant, equally transparent, till its colour is washed out by -the melting snow in a ghastly narrow valley, which we called the Valley -of Death. - -The little inn at Aak, in Romsdal, with a large garden stretching -along the hillside, disappointed us at first, as the clouds hid the -mountain-tops, but morning revealed how glorious they are—purple -pinnacles of rock or pathless fields of snow embossed upon a sky which -is delicately blue above but melts into the clearest opal. Grander, -we thought, than any single peak in Switzerland is the tremendous -peak of the Romsdalhorn, and the walks in all directions are most -exquisite—into deep glades filled with columbines and the giant -larkspurs, which are such a feature of Norway: into tremendous mountain -gorges: or to Waeblungsnaes, along the banks of the lovely fyord, -with its marvellously quaint forms of mountain distance. Aak is a -place where a month may be spent most delightfully, as well as most -comfortably and economically. - -[Illustration: IN THE ROMSDAL, NORWAY.] - -We had heard a great deal before we went to Norway about the difficulty -of getting proper food, but our own experience is that we were never -fed more luxuriously. Perhaps very late in the season the provisions -at the country 'stations' may be somewhat used up, but when we were -there in July only those who could not live without a great deal of -meat could have any cause for complaint, and once a week we generally -had reindeer for a treat. When we arrived in the evenings, we always -found an excellent meal prepared—the most delicious coffee, tea, -and cream; baskets of bread, rusks, cakes and biscuits of various -descriptions; fresh salmon and trout; cloudberries, bilberries, -raspberries, mountain strawberries and cream; and for all this about a -franc and a half is the payment required. - -My companions lingered at Kristiania whilst I paid a visit, which is -one of the most delightful recollections of my tour, to a native family -near Moss, at the mouth of the fyord; then we came back to Denmark, -travelling in the same train with the beloved Prince Imperial, who -was then in the height of health and happiness, and received at every -station with the enthusiastic 'Hochs!' which in Scandinavia supply the -place of the English hurrah. - - - LONDON: PRINTED BY - SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE - AND PARLIAMENT STREET - - - - - WORKS BY AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE. - - - CITIES OF SOUTHERN ITALY AND SICILY. - With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 10_s._ 6_d._ - - 'Mr. Hare's name will be a sufficient passport for the popularity of - his new work. His books on the Cities of Italy are fast becoming as - indispensable to the traveller in that part of the country as the - guide-books of Murray or of Baedeker.... His book is one which I - should advise all future travellers in Southern Italy and Sicily to - find room for in their portmanteaus.'—ACADEMY. - - 'We regard the volume as a necessary part of the equipment of a - traveller in Southern Italy; if he goes without it he will miss the - most thorough and most helpful book that has treated it. The part - devoted to Sicily is especially full of interest: and we should not - omit to make mention of the exquisite little woodcuts done from Mr. - Hare's water-colours executed on the spot.'—BRITISH QUARTERLY REVIEW. - - - CITIES OF CENTRAL ITALY. 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His book is one which I - should advise all future travellers in Southern Italy and Sicily to - find room for in their portmanteaus."—_Academy._ - - - CITIES OF NORTHERN ITALY. _Second Edition._ With Illustrations. 2 - vols., crown 8vo, Cloth, 7_s._ 6_d._ - - "We can imagine no better way of spending a wet day in Florence or - Venice than in reading all that Mr. Hare has to say and quote about - the history, arts, and famous people of those cities. These volumes - come under the class of volumes not to borrow, but to buy."—_Morning - Post._ - - - CITIES OF CENTRAL ITALY. _Second Edition._ With Illustrations. 2 - vols., crown 8vo, Cloth, 7_s._ 6_d._ - - - SKETCHES IN HOLLAND AND SCANDINAVIA. Crown 8vo, with Illustrations, - Cloth, 3_s._ - - "This little work is the best companion a visitor to these countries - can have, while those who stay at home can also read it with pleasure - and profit."—_Glasgow Herald._ - - - STUDIES IN RUSSIA. Crown 8vo, with numerous Illustrations, Cloth, 6_s._ - - "Mr. Hare's book may be recommended as at once entertaining and - instructive."—_Athenæum._ - - "A delightful and instructive guide to the places visited. It is, in - fact, a sort of glorified guide-book, with all the charm of a pleasant - and cultivated literary companion."—_Scotsman._ - - - FLORENCE. _Sixth Edition._ Revised by the AUTHOR and W. ST. - CLAIR BADDELEY. Fcap. 8vo, Cloth limp, 3_s._ With 2 Plans and 30 - Illustrations. - - - VENICE. _Sixth Edition._ Revised by the AUTHOR and W. ST. CLAIR - BADDELEY. Fcap. 8vo, Cloth limp, 3_s._ With 2 Plans and 17 - Illustrations. - - "The plan of these little volumes is excellent.... Anything more - perfectly fulfilling the idea of a guide-book we have never - seen."—_Scottish Review._ - - - THE RIVIERAS. Fcap. 8vo, Cloth limp, 3_s._ With 67 Illustrations. - - - PARIS. _New Edition, revised._ With 50 Illustrations. Fcap. 8vo, Cloth - limp, 6_s._ 2 vols., sold separately. - - - DAYS NEAR PARIS. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, Cloth, 6_s._; or in 2 - vols., Cloth limp, 6_s._ 6_d._ - - - NORTH-EASTERN FRANCE. Crown 8vo, Cloth, 6_s._ With Map and 86 Woodcuts. - - Picardy—Abbeville and Amiens—Paris and its Environs—Arras and the - Manufacturing Towns of the North—Champagne—Nancy and the Vosges, &c. - - - SOUTH-EASTERN FRANCE. Crown 8vo, Cloth, 6_s._ With Map and 176 - Woodcuts. - - The different lines to the South—Burgundy—Auvergne—The - Cantal—Provence—The Alpes Dauphinaises and Alpes Maritimes, &c. - - - SOUTH-WESTERN FRANCE. Crown 8vo, Cloth, 6_s._ With Map and 232 - Woodcuts. - - The Loire—The Gironde and Landes—Creuse—Corrèze—The - Limousin—Gascony and Languedoc—The Cevennes and the Pyrenees, &c. - - - NORTH-WESTERN FRANCE. Crown 8vo, Cloth, 6_s._ With Map and 73 Woodcuts. - - Normandy and Brittany—Rouen—Dieppe—Cherbourg—Bayeux—Caen—Coutances— - Chartres—Mont S. Michel—Dinan—Brest—Alençon, &c. - - "Mr. Hare's volumes, with their charming illustrations, are a reminder - of how much we miss by neglecting provincial France."—_Times._ - - "The appreciative traveller in France will find no more pleasant, - inexhaustible, and discriminating guide than Mr. Hare.... All the - volumes are most liberally supplied with drawings, all of them - beautifully executed, and some of them genuine masterpieces."—_Echo._ - - "Every one who has used one of Mr. Hare's books will welcome the - appearance of his new work upon France.... The books are the most - satisfactory guide-books for a traveller of culture who wishes - improvement as well as entertainment from a tour.... It is not - necessary to go to the places described before the volumes become - useful. While part of the work describes the district round Paris, - the rest practically opens up a new country for English visitors to - provincial France."—_Scotsman._ - - - SUSSEX. _Second Edition._ With Map and 45 Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, Cloth, - 6_s._ - - - SHROPSHIRE. With Map and 48 Woodcuts. Cloth, 6_s._ - - - THE STORY OF TWO NOBLE LIVES. CHARLOTTE, COUNTESS CANNING, AND - LOUISA, MARCHIONESS OF WATERFORD. In 3 vols. Crown 8vo, Cloth, £1, - 11_s._ 6_d._ Illustrated with 11 engraved Portraits and 21 Plates - in Photogravure from Lady Waterford's Drawings, 8 full-page and 24 - smaller Woodcuts from Sketches by the Author. - - Also a Special Large Paper Edition, with India Proofs of the - Plates. Crown 4to, £3, 3_s._ _net_. - - - THE GURNEYS OF EARLHAM: Memoirs and Letters of the Eleven Children - of JOHN and CATHERINE GURNEY of Earlham, 1775-1875, and the Story of - their Religious Life under many Different Forms. Illustrated with 33 - Photogravure Plates and 19 Woodcuts. In 2 vols., crown 8vo, Cloth, - 25_s._ [_Second Edition._ - - - BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES: Memorial Sketches of ARTHUR PENRHYN STANLEY, - Dean of Westminster; HENRY ALFORD, Dean of Canterbury; Mrs. DUNCAN - STEWART; and PARAY LE MONIAL. Illustrated with 7 Portraits and 17 - Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, Cloth, 6_s._ - - - THE STORY OF MY LIFE: 1834 to 1870. Vols. I. to III. Recollections - of Places, People, and Conversations, from Letters and Journals. - Illustrated with 18 Photogravure Portraits and 144 Woodcuts from - Drawings by the Author. Crown 8vo, Cloth, £1, 11_s._ 6_d._ - - - THE STORY OF MY LIFE: 1870 to 1900. Vols. IV. to VI. With 12 - Photogravure Plates and 247 Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, Cloth, £1, 11_s._ - 6_d._ - - * * * * * - - - _BY THE LATE AUGUSTUS WILLIAM HARE_ - - _RECTOR OF ALTON BARNES_ - - - THE ALTON SERMONS. _Fifth Edition._ Crown 8vo, 6_s._ - - - SERMONS ON THE LORD'S PRAYER. Crown 8vo, 1_s._ 6_d._ - - - _GEORGE ALLEN, 156, CHARING CROSS ROAD, LONDON_ - - - - - THE STORY OF MY LIFE - - BY AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE - - Vols. I. to III. Crown 8vo, £1, 11s. 6d. - Vols. IV. to VI. Crown 8vo, £1, 11s. 6d. - - - _PRESS NOTICES_ - - "The story is full of varied interest.... Readers who know how to pick -and choose will find plenty to entertain them, and not a little which -is well worth reading."—_The Times._ - - "Mr. Hare gives an idyllic picture of the simple, refined, dignified -life at Lime.... The volumes are an inexhaustible storehouse of -anecdote."—_Daily News._ - - "The reader rarely comes across a passage which does not afford -amusement or pleasant entertainment."—_The Scotsman._ - - "One may safely predict that this will be the most popular book of -the season.... We have not space to point out a twentieth part of -the passages that might be described as having a special interest. -Moreover, though the book is, among other things, a repertory of -curious occurrences and amusing anecdotes, it is much more remarkable -as a book of sentiment and character, and a story of real life told -with remarkable fulness."—_The Guardian._ - - "A book which will greatly amuse the reader."—_The Spectator._ - - "Much of what the author has to tell is worthy the telling, and is told -with considerable ease and grace, and with a power to interest out of -the common. He introduces us to the best of good company, and tells -many excellently witty stories.... Whenever he is describing foreign -life he is at his best; and nothing can exceed the beautiful pathos of -the episodes in which his mother appears. Indeed, he has the gift of -tenderness for all good women and brave men."—_Daily Telegraph._ - - "This autobiography could not fail to be exceptionally interesting. -There may be readers who will protest that the more minute details of -daily life might have been abridged with advantage, but the aim of the -book makes this elaborate treatment of the subject indispensable. The -conscientious record of a mental development amid curious surroundings, -would make these volumes valuable if not a single name of note were -mentioned.... Even more interesting than the stories of people and -things that are still remembered are the glimpses of a past which is -quickly fading out of recollection."—_The Standard._ - - "The book is unexceptionable on the score of taste.... It is -an agreeable miscellany into which one may dip at random with -the certainty of landing something entertaining, rather than an -autobiography of the ordinary kind. The concluding chapter is full of a -deep and tender pathos."—_The Manchester Guardian._ - - "Mr. Hare's style is graceful and felicitous, and his life-history -was well worth writing. The volumes simply teem with good things, -and in a single article we can but skim the surface of the riches -they contain. A word must also be said of the beauty and delicacy of -the illustrations. Few living men dare brave criticism by giving us -the story of their lives and promising more. But Mr. Hare is quite -justified. He has produced a fascinating work, in some parts strange -as any romance, and his reminiscences of great men are agreeable and -interesting."—_Birmingham Gazette._ - - "An inexhaustible storehouse of anecdote."—_South-Western News._ - - "These volumes possess an almost unique interest because of the -striking series of portraits we get in them, not so much of -celebrities, of whom we often hear enough, but of 'originals' in -private life.... They give us a truly remarkable picture of certain -sections of European society, and, above all, introduce us to some -singularly quaint types of human character."—_Glasgow Herald._ - - "Brimful of anecdotes, this autobiography will yield plenty of -entertainment. We should like to quote many a characteristic little -tale, but must content ourselves by heartily recommending all who care -for the pleasantest of pleasant gossip concerning famous people and -places to procure these three volumes."—_Publisher's Circular._ - - "Mr. Hare has an easy, agreeable style, and tells a story with humour -and skill."—_The Saturday Review._ - - "It would be well for all who think the children of to-day -are over-pampered and too much considered, to read Mr. Hare's -life."—_Lady's Pictorial._ - - "Very delicate, idyllic, and fascinating are the pictures the author -has drawn of daily life in old rectories and country houses."—_The -World._ - - "Mr. Hare has the gift, the rare gift, of writing about himself -truthfully. Nor can a quick eye for shades of character be denied to -Mr. Hare, who does not seem ready to take people at their own estimate -or even at what may be called their market price. But we do not detect -a touch of malice, but only that knack of telling the truth which is -so hateful to the ordinary biographer, and so distasteful to that -sentimental public which is never so happy as when devouring sugared -falsehoods."—_The Speaker._ - - "The book has throughout a strong human interest. It contains a great -many anecdotes, and in our opinion, at all events, deserves to take -rank among notable biographical works."—_Westminster Gazette._ - - "A deeply interesting book. It is the story of a man who has seen much -and suffered much, and who out of the fulness of his experience can -bring forth much to interest and entertain.... The book has a wealth -of apt quotations and graceful reference, and though written in a -scholarly and cultured way, it is always simple and interesting.... -Nothing in the work has been set down in malice; there are excuses for -everybody.... Of course it is hardly necessary to say that the book -teems with entertainment from beginning to end."—_St. James's Budget._ - - "There is much besides human character and incident in these -well-packed and well-illustrated volumes.... No one will close the -work without a feeling not only of gratitude for a long gallery of -interesting and brilliantly-speaking portraits, but of sympathy with -the biographer."—_The Athenæum._ - - "It is doubtful whether any Englishman living has had a wider -acquaintance among people worth knowing in England and on the -Continent, than the author of these memoirs. It is also doubtful -whether any man, with equal opportunities, could have turned them to -so good an account.... We have here an incomparable storehouse of -anecdotes concerning conspicuous persons of the first half of this -Victorian age."—_New York Sun._ - - "This is assuredly a book to read."—_Freeman._ - - "Singularly interesting is this autobiography.... Altogether it is a -notable book, and may well be recommended to those who are interested -in the intellectual life of our time."—_New York Herald._ - - "Mr. Hare's excellence, apart from felicity of style and directness -of method, has ever been conspicuous by the excellence that comes of -wide knowledge of his subject, and a keenly sympathetic nature. Alive -as he has ever been to responsive emotion, he possesses also a bright -humour that seizes upon the discrepancies, the nuances and quaintnesses -of whatever comes within the range of his eye and pen. These qualities -have made for Mr. Hare a circle of admirers who, while they have sought -in his pages no very thrilling passages, have felt steadily the growth -of a liking given to an old friend who is always kindly and oftentimes -amusing.... Mr. Hare dwells with a rare and touching love upon his -mother, and these passages are amongst the most appealing in the -book."—_Philadelphia Courier._ - - "Mr. Hare has given us a picture of English social life that for -vividness, picturesqueness, and completeness, is not excelled in -literature. There is a charming lack of attempt to be literary in -the telling of the story—a refreshing frankness and quaintness of -expression. He takes his readers with him so that they may breathe the -same social atmosphere in which he has spent his life. With their own -eyes they see the things he saw, and best of all they have freedom to -judge them, for Mr. Hare does not force himself or his opinions upon -them."—_New York Press._ - - "Mr. Hare's memoirs are their own excuse for being, and are a -distinct addition to the wide and delightful realm of biographical -literature."—_Chicago Journal._ - - "It is rarely that an autobiography is planned on so ample a scale, and -yet, to tell the truth, there are singularly few of these pages which -one really cares to skip."—_Good Words._ - - "A sad history of Mr. Hare's childhood and boyhood this is for the -most part, but there were bursts of sunshine in Augustus Hare's -life—sunshine shed around him by the kindly, noble-minded lady who is -called mother all through these volumes, and for whom his reverence and -gratitude deepened with years."—_Clifton Society._ - - "The 'Story of My Life' is no commonplace autobiography, and plunge -in where you may, there is something to interest and attract."—_The -Sketch._ - - "No one can read these very fascinating pages without feeling that what -their author has written is absolutely that which no other would have -ventured to say of him, and what not one in a million would have told -concerning himself. There is a wonderful charm of sincerity in what he -discloses as to his own feelings, his likes and dislikes, his actions -and trials. He lays open, with photographic fidelity, the story of his -life."—_New York Churchman._ - - "These fair volumes might be labelled the Literature of Peace. They -offer an outlook on life observant, and yet detached, from the turmoil -of disillusion."—_New York Times._ - - "Mr. Hare has written an autobiography that will not soon be -forgotten."—_Chicago Tribune._ - - "The story of Mr. Hare's literary life is most entertaining, and the -charm of the work lies pre-eminently in the pictures of the many -interesting and often famous men and women whom he has known."—_Boston -Congregationalist._ - - "Mr. Hare's story is an intensely interesting one, and his style, -which at first appears to be diffuse, is soon seen to be perfectly -well adapted to the writer's purpose.... These volumes are full of -the most valuable and attractive material for the student of human -nature."—_The Book Buyer._ - - "Mr. Hare's story contains no touches of egotism, but is always plain, -honest, and straightforward. It is distinctly worth reading."—_London -Literary World._ - - - _GEORGE ALLEN, 156, CHARING CROSS ROAD, LONDON_ - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches in Holland and Scandinavia, by -Augustus J. C. 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Hare. - - </title> - -<link rel="coverpage" href="images/i_cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2,h3 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; - text-indent: 1em; -} - -.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} -.p6 {margin-top: 6em;} - -p.noindent1{ - text-indent: 0em; -} - -.hang50 { - text-align: justify; - margin-top: 2.0em; - padding-left: 2.3em; - text-indent: -2.0em; -} - - .p06 { - font-size: 0.60em; - text-align: center; -} - - .p08 { - font-size: 0.80em; - text-align: center; -} - - .p09 { - font-size: 0.90em; - text-align: left; -} - -abbr[title] { - border-bottom: thin dotted #dcdcdc; - text-decoration: none; -} - -/* Drops caps */ - -p.drop-cap { - text-indent: 0em; -} -p.drop-cap:first-letter -{ - float: left; - margin: 0.15em 0.1em 0em 0em; - font-size: 250%; - line-height:0.85em; -} - -@media handheld { - - img.drop-cap { - display: none; - } - - p.drop-cap:first-letter { - float: none; - margin: 0; - font-size: 100%; - } -} - -/* horizontal rules */ - -hr.r40 { - width: 40%; - margin-left: 30%; - margin-right: 30%; -} -hr.chap { - width: 65%; - margin-left: 17.5%; - margin-right: 17.5%; -} - -hr.full { - width: 95%; - margin-left: 2.5%; - margin-right: 2.5%; -} - -.toc { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - width: 80%; -} - - .tdl {text-align: left;} - .tdr {text-align: right;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; -} /* page numbers */ - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.right {text-align: right;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - - -/* Images */ - -.figcenter { - clear: both; - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - padding-top: 1em; - padding-bottom: 1em; -} - -.captioncenter { - font-size: 90%; - text-align: center; - font-weight: bold; -} - -img {max-width: 100%; height: auto;} - -/* Poetry */ - -.poetry-container { - text-align: center; -} - -.poetry .stanza { - margin: 1em auto; - } - -.poetry .verse { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 8em; -} - -.poetry { - display: inline-block; - text-align: left; -} - -.poetry .indent9 { - text-indent: -3em; - padding-left: 09em; -} - -@media handheld { -.poetry { -display: block; -margin-left: 1.5em; -} -} - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} - -.nopagebreak { - page-break-before: avoid; -} - - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches in Holland and Scandinavia, by -Augustus J. C. Hare - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Sketches in Holland and Scandinavia - -Author: Augustus J. C. Hare - -Release Date: June 15, 2020 [EBook #62403] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES IN HOLLAND AND *** - - - - -Produced by Fiona Holmes, MFR and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="transnote"> -<h2 class="nopagebreak" title="">Transcriber's Notes.</h2> - -<p>The few instances of inconsistent hyphenation have been retained.</p> -<p><a href="#Page_100" title="">Page 100</a>— Changed Lubeck to Lübeck.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_cover.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="1012" /> -</div> - -<h1>SKETCHES<br /> - IN<br /> - HOLLAND AND SCANDINAVIA</h1> - -<p class="p6"></p> - -<p class="p06"> BY</p> -<p class="center"> AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE</p> -<p class="p06"> AUTHOR OF "CITIES OF ITALY," "WANDERINGS IN SPAIN," ETC.</p> - -<p class="p6"></p> - -<p class="p08"> LONDON</p> -<p class="p08"> GEORGE ALLEN, 156, CHARING CROSS ROAD</p> - -<p class="p08"> LONDON</p> -<p class="p08"> SMITH, ELDER, & CO., 15 WATERLOO PLACE</p> -<p class="p08"> 1885</p> -<p class="p08"> [<i>All rights reserved</i>]</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> - - -<p>The slight sketches in this volume are only the -result of ordinary tours in the countries they -attempt to describe. Yet the days they recall were so -delightful, and their memory—especially of the tour -in Norway—is so indescribably sunny, that I cannot -help hoping their publication may lead others to enjoy -what is at once so pleasant and so easy of attainment.</p> - -<p class="tdr"><span class="smcap">Augustus J. C. Hare.</span></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="smcap">Holmhurst</span>: <em>November 1884</em>.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<table summary="Contents" class="toc"> -<tr> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr"><small>PAGE</small></td> -</tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">IN HOLLAND</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">IN DENMARK</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">IN SWEDEN</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">IN NORWAY</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td> - </tr> -</table> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="IN_HOLLAND" id="IN_HOLLAND"></a><i>IN HOLLAND.</i></h2> - - -<p class="drop-cap">AT Roosendal, about an hour's railway journey -from Antwerp, the boundary between Belgium -and Holland is crossed, and a branch line diverges -to Breda.</p> - -<p>Somehow, like most travellers, we could not help -expecting to see some marked change on reaching a -new country, and in Holland one could not repress the -expectation of beginning at once to see the pictures -of Teniers and Gerard Dou in real life. We were -certainly disappointed at first. Open heaths were -succeeded by woods of stunted firs, and then by fields -with thick hedges of beech or alder, till the towers of -Breda came in sight. Here a commonplace omnibus -took us to the comfortable inn of Zum Kroon, and -we were shown into bedrooms reached by an open -wooden staircase from the courtyard, and quickly joined -the table d'hôte, at which the magnates of the town -were seated with napkins well tucked up under their -chins, talking, with full mouths, in Dutch, of which to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>our unaccustomed ears the words seemed all in one -string. Most excellent was the dinner—roast meat -and pears, quantities of delicious vegetables cooked -in different ways, piles of ripe mulberries and cake, -and across the little garden, with its statues and -bright flower-beds, we could see the red sails of the -barges going up and down the canals.</p> - -<p>As soon as dinner was over, we sallied forth to see -the town, which impressed us more than any Dutch -city did afterwards, perhaps because it was the first -we saw. The winding streets—one of them ending in -a high windmill—are lined with houses wonderfully -varied in outline, and of every shade of delicate -colour, yellow, grey, or brown, though the windows -always have white frames and bars. Passing through -a low archway under one of the houses, we found -ourselves, when we least expected it, in the public -garden, a kind of wood where the trees have killed all -the grass, surrounded by canals, beyond one of which -is a great square château built by William <abbr title="the third">III.</abbr> of -England, encircled by the Merk, and enclosing an -arcaded court. There was an older château of 1350 -at Breda, but we failed to find it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_005.jpg" id="i_005" alt="" width="450" height="350" /> -<p class="captioncenter">THE MARKET-PLACE AT BREDA.</p> -</div> - -<p>In stately splendour, from the old houses of the -market-place, rises the noble Hervormde Kerk -(Protestant Church), with a lofty octagon tower, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>a most characteristic bulbous Dutch spire. Here, as -we wanted to see the interior, we first were puzzled -by our ignorance of Dutch, finding, as everywhere in -the smaller towns, that the natives knew no language -but their own. But two old women in high caps and -gold earrings observed our puzzledom from a window -and pointed to a man and a key—we nodded; the -man pointed to himself, a door, and a key—we -nodded; and we were soon inside the building. It -was our first introduction to Dutch Calvinism and -iconoclasm, and piteous indeed was it to see so -magnificent a church thickly covered with whitewash, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>and the quantity of statues which it contains of -deceased Dukes and Duchesses of Nassau bereft of -their legs and petticoats. Only, in a grand side -chapel on the left of the choir, the noble tomb -of Engelbrecht <abbr title="the second">II</abbr>. of Nassau, general under the -Emperor Maximilian (1505), remains intact. The -guide lights matches to shine through the transparent -alabaster of the figures; that of the Duke represents -Death, that of the Duchess Sleep, as they lie beneath -a stone slab which bears the armour of Engelbrecht, -and is supported by figures of Cæsar, Hannibal, -Regulus, and Philip of Macedon; that of Cæsar is -sublime. The tomb of Sir Francis Vere in Westminster -Abbey is of the same design, and is supposed -to be copied from this famous monument. Outside -the chapel is the tomb of Engelbrecht <abbr title="the fifth">V</abbr>. of Nassau, -with all his family kneeling, in quaint headdresses. -The other sights of the church are the brass font in -the Baptistery, and a noble brass in the choir of -William de Gaellen, Dean of the Chapter, 1539. It -will be observed that here, and almost everywhere else -in Holland, the names of saints which used to be -attached to the churches have disappeared; the -buildings are generally known as the old church, or -new church, or great church.</p> - -<p>After a delicious breakfast of coffee and thick <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>cream, with rusks, -scones, and different kinds of cheese, always an indispensable in Dutch -breakfasts, we took to the railway again and crossed Zealand, which -chiefly consists of four islands, Noordt Beveland, Zuid Beveland, -Schouwen, and Walcheren, and is less visited by the rest of the -Netherlanders than any other part of the country. The land is all -cut up into vast polders, as the huge meadows are called, which are -recovered from the sea and protected by embankments. Here, if human -care was withdrawn for six months, the whole country would be under the -sea again. A corps of engineers called 'waterstaat' are continually -employed to watch the waters, and to keep in constant repair the dykes, -which are formed of clay at the bottom, as that is more waterproof -than anything else, and thatched with willows, which are here grown -extensively for the purpose. If the sea passes a dyke, ruin is -imminent, an alarm bell rings, and the whole population rush to the -rescue. The moment one dyke is even menaced, the people begin to build -another inside it, and then rely upon the double defence, whilst they -fortify the old one. But all their care has not preserved the islands -of Zealand. Three centuries ago, Schouwen was entirely submerged, and -every living creature was drowned. Soon after, Noordt Beveland was -submerged,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]></a></span> and remained for several years entirely under water, only -the points of the church spires being visible. Zuid Beveland had been -submerged in the fourteenth century. Walcheren was submerged as late as -1808, and Tholen even in 1825. It has been aptly asserted that the sea -to the inhabitants of Holland is what Vesuvius is to Torre del Greco. -How well its French name of Pays-Bas suits the country! De Amicis says -that the Dutch have three enemies—the sea, the lakes, and the rivers; -they repel the sea, they dry the lakes, and they imprison the rivers; -but with the sea it is a combat which never ceases.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_008.jpg" id="i_008" alt="" width="450" height="321" /> -<p class="captioncenter">BERGEN-OP-ZOOM.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p> -<p>The story of the famous siege of 1749 made us -linger at Bergen-op-Zoom, a clean, dull little town -with bright white houses surrounding an irregular -market-place, and surmounted by the heavy tower of -the Church of S. Gertrude. In the Stadhuis is a fine -carved stone chimney-piece; but there is little worth -seeing, and we were soon speeding across the rich -pastures of Zuid Beveland, and passing its capital of -Goes, prettily situated amongst cherry orchards, the -beautiful cruciform church with a low central spire -rising above the trees on its ramparts. Every now -and then the train seems scarcely out of the water, -which covers a vast surface of the pink-green flats, -and recalls the description in Hudibras of—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">A country that draws fifty feet of water,</div> - <div class="verse">In which men live as in the hold of nature,</div> - <div class="verse">And when the sea does in upon them break,</div> - <div class="verse">And drown a province, does but spring a leak.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>The peasant women at the stations are a perpetual -amusement, for there is far more costume here than -in most parts of Holland, and peculiar square handsome -gold ornaments, something like closed golden books, -are universally worn on each side of the face.</p> - -<p>So, crossing a broad salt canal into the island of -Walcheren, we reached Middleburg, a handsome town -which was covered with water to the house tops when -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>the island was submerged. It was the birthplace of -Zach Janssen and Hans Lipperhey, the inventors of -the telescope, <em>c.</em>1610. In the market-place is a most -beautiful Gothic townhall, built by the architect -Keldermans, early in the sixteenth century. We -asked a well dressed boy how we could get into it, -and he, without further troubling himself, pointed the -way with his finger. The building contains a quaint -old hall called the Vierschaar, and a so-called museum, -but there is little enough to see. As we came out -the boy met us. 'You must give me something: -I pointed out the entrance of the Stadhuis to you.' -In Holland we have always found that no one, rich -or poor, does a kindness or even a civility for -nothing!</p> - -<p>The crowd in the market-place was so great that -it was impossible to sketch the Stadhuis as we should -have wished, but the people themselves were delightfully -picturesque. The women entirely conceal their hair -under their white caps, but have golden corkscrews -sticking out on either side the face, like weapons of -defence, from which the golden slabs we have observed -before were pendant. The Nieuwe Kerk is of little -interest, though it contains the tomb of William of -Holland, who was elected Emperor of Germany in 1250, -and we wandered on through the quiet streets,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> till -a Gothic arch in an ancient wall looked tempting. -Passing through it we found ourselves in the enclosure -of the old abbey, shaded by a grove of trees, and -surrounded by ancient buildings, part of which are -appropriated as the Hotel Abdij, where we arrived -utterly famished, and found a table d'hôte at 2.30 <small>P.M.</small> -unspeakably reviving.</p> - -<p>Any one who sees Holland thoroughly ought also -to visit Zieriksee, the capital of the island of Schouwen; -but the water locomotion thither is so difficult and -tedious that we preferred keeping to the railways, -which took us back in the dark over the country we -had already traversed, and a little more, to Dortrecht, -where there is a convenient tramway to take travellers -from the station into the town. Here, at the Hôtel -de Fries, we found comfortable bedrooms, with boarded -floors and box-beds like those in Northumbrian cottages, -and we had supper in the public room, separated -into two parts by a daïs for strangers, whence we -looked down into the humbler division, which recalled -many homely scenes of Ostade and Teniers in its -painted wooden ceiling, its bright, polished furniture, -its cat and dog and quantity of birds and flowers, its -groups of boors at round tables drinking out of -tankards, and the landlady and her daughter in their -gleaming gold ornaments, sitting knitting, with the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>waiter standing behind them amusing himself by the -general conversation.</p> - -<p>Our morning at Dortrecht was very delightful, and -it is a thoroughly charming place. Passing under a -dark archway in a picturesque building of Charles <abbr title="the fifth">V</abbr>. -opposite the hotel, we found ourselves at once on the -edge of an immense expanse of shimmering river, -with long rich polders beyond, between which the -wide flood breaks into three different branches. Red -and white sails flit down them. Here and there rise -a line of pollard willows or clipped elms, and now and -then a church spire. On the nearest shore an ancient -windmill, coloured in delicate tints of grey and yellow, -surmounts a group of white buildings. On the left is -a broad esplanade of brick, lined with ancient houses, -and a canal with a bridge, the long arms of which are -ready to open at a touch and give a passage to the -great yellow-masted barges, which are already half -intercepting the bright red house-fronts ornamented -with stone, which belong to some public buildings -facing the end of the canal. With what a confusion -of merchandise are the boats laden, and how gay is -the colouring, between the old weedy posts to which -they are moored!</p> - -<p>It was from hence that Isabella of France, with -Sir John de Hainault and many other faithful knights, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>set out on their expedition against Edward <abbr title="the second">II</abbr>. and -the government of the Spencers.</p> - -<p>From the busy port, where nevertheless they are -dredging, we cross another bridge and find ourselves -in a quietude like that of a cathedral close in England. -On one side is a wide pool half covered with floating -timber, and, in the other half, reflecting like a mirror -the houses on the opposite shore, with their bright -gardens of lilies and hollyhocks, and trees of mountain -ash, which bend their masses of scarlet berries to the -still water. Between the houses are glints of blue -river and of inevitable windmills on the opposite shore. -And all this we observe standing in the shadow -of a huge church, the Groote Kerk, with a nave -of the fourteenth century, and a choir of the fifteenth, -and a gigantic brick tower, in which three long Gothic -arches, between octagonal tourelles, enclose several -tiers of windows. At the top is a great clock, and -below the church a grove of elms, through which -fitful sunlight falls on the grass and the dead red of -the brick pavement (so grateful to feet sore with the -sharp stones of other Dutch cities), where groups of -fishermen are collecting in their blue shirts and white -trousers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_014.jpg" id="i_014" alt="" width="390" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter">GROOTE KERK, DORTRECHT.</p> -</div> - -<p>There is little to see inside this or any other -church in Holland; travellers will rather seek for the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>memorials, at the Kloveniers Doelen, of the famous -Synod of Dort, which was held 1618-19, in the hope -of effecting a compromise between the Gomarists, or -disciples of Calvin, and the Arminians who followed -Zwingli, and who had recently obtained the name of -Remonstrants from the 'remonstrance' which they -had addressed eight years before in defence of their -doctrines. The Calvinists held that the greater part -of mankind was excluded from grace, which the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>Arminians denied; but at the Synod of Dort the -Calvinists proclaimed themselves as infallible as the -Pope, and their resolutions became the law of the -Dutch reformed Church. The Arminians were forthwith -outlawed; a hundred ministers who refused to -subscribe to the dictates of the Synod were banished; -Hugo Grotius and Rombout Hoogerbeets were imprisoned -for life at Loevestein; the body of the -secretary Ledenberg, who committed suicide in prison, -was hung; and Van Olden Barneveldt, the friend of -William the Silent, was beheaded in his seventy-second -year.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_015.jpg" id="i_015" alt="" width="545" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter">CANAL AT DORTRECHT.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span></p> -<p>There is nothing in the quiet streets of Dortrecht -to remind one that it was once one of the most -important commercial cities of Holland, taking -precedence even of Rotterdam, Delft, Leyden, and -Amsterdam. It also possessed a privilege called the -Staple of Dort, by which all the carriers on the Maas -and Rhine were forced to unload their merchandise -here, and pay all duties imposed, only using the boats -or porters of the place in their work, and so bringing -a great revenue to the town.</p> - -<p>More than those in any of the other towns of -Holland do the little water streets of Dortrecht recall -Venice, the houses rising abruptly from the canals; -only the luminous atmosphere and the shimmering -water changing colour like a chameleon, are wanting.</p> - -<p>Through the street of wine—Wijnstraat—built -over storehouses used for the staple, we went to -the Museum to see the pictures. There were two -schools of Dortrecht. Jacob Geritse Cuyp (1575), -Albert Cuyp (1605), Ferdinand Bol (1611), Nicolas -Maas (1632), and Schalken (1643) belonged to the -former; Arend de Gelder, Arnold Houbraken, Dirk -Stoop, and Ary Scheffer are of the latter. Sunshine -and glow were the characteristics of the first school, -greyness and sobriety of the second. But there are -few good pictures at Dort now, and some of the best -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>works of Cuyp are to be found in our National -Gallery, executed at his native place and portraying -the great brick tower of the church in the golden -haze of evening, seen across rich pastures, where the -cows are lying deep in the meadow grass. The works -of Ary Scheffer are now the most interesting pictures -in the Dortrecht Gallery. Of the subject 'Christus -Consolator' there are two representations. In the -more striking of these the pale Christ is seated -amongst the sick, sorrowful, blind, maimed, and enslaved, -who are all stretching out their hands to Him. -Beneath is the tomb which the artist executed for his -mother, Cornelia Scheffer, whose touching figure is -represented lying with outstretched hands, in the -utmost abandonment of repose.</p> - -<p>An excursion should be made from Dortrecht to -the castle of Loevestein on the Rhine, where Grotius, -imprisoned in 1619, was concealed by his wife in the -chest which brought in his books and linen. It was -conveyed safely out of the castle by her courageous -maid Elsje van Houwening, and was taken at first to -the house of Jacob Daatselaer, a supposed friend of -Grotius, who refused to render any assistance. But -his wife consented to open the chest, and the philosopher, -disguised as a mason, escaped to Brabant.</p> - -<p>It is much best to visit Rotterdam as an excursion -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>from Dortrecht. We thought it the most odious -place we ever were in—immense, filthy, and not very -picturesque. Its handsomest feature is the vast quay -called the Boompjes, on the Maas. Here and there a -great windmill reminds you unmistakably of where -you are, and the land streets are intersected everywhere -by water streets, the carriages being constantly -stopped to let ships pass through the bridges. In the -Groote Markt stands a bronze statue of Desiderius -Erasmus—'Vir saeculi sui primarius, et civis omnium -praestantissimus,' which is the work of Hendrik de -Keyser (1662), and in the Wijde Kerkstraat is the -house where he was born, inscribed 'Haec est parva -domus, magnus qua natus Erasmus, 1467,' but it is -now a tavern. The great church of S. Lawrence—Groote -Kerk—built in 1477-87, contains the tombs of -a number of Dutch admirals, and has a grand pavement -of monumental slabs, but is otherwise frightful. -The portion used for service is said to be 'so conveniently -constructed that the zealous Christians of -Rotterdam prefer sleeping through a sermon there, -to any other church in the city.' Part of the rest is -used as a cart-house, the largest chapel is a commodious -carpenter's shop, and the aisles round the part -which is still a church, where there has been an -attempt at restoration in painting the roof yellow and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>putting up some hideous yellow seats, are a playground -for the children of the town, who are freely admitted -in their perambulators, though for strangers there is a -separate fee for each part of the edifice they enter.</p> - -<p>We went to see the pictures in the Museum bequeathed -to the town by Jacob Otto Boyman, but did -not admire them much. It takes time to accustom -one's mind to Dutch art, and the endless representations -of family life, with domestic furniture, pots and -pans, &c., or of the simple local landscapes—clipped -avenues, sandy roads, dykes, and cottages, or even of -the cows, and pigs, and poultry, which seem wonderfully -executed, but, where one has too much of the -originals, scarcely worth the immense amount of time -and labour bestowed upon them. The calm seas of -Van de Welde and Van der Capelle only afford a certain -amount of relief. The scenes of village life are -seldom pleasing, often coarse, and never have anything -elevating to offer or ennobling to recall. We thought -that the real charm of the Dutch school to outsiders -consists in the immense power and variety of its -portraits.</p> - -<p>Hating Rotterdam, we thankfully felt ourselves -speeding over the flat, rich lands to Gouda, where -we found an agricultural fête going on, banners -half way down the houses, and a triumphal arch as -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>the entrance to the square, formed of spades, rakes, -and forks, with a plough at the top, and decorated -with corn, potatoes, turnips, and carrots, and cornucopias -pouring out flowers at the sides. In the -square—a great cheese market, for the Gouda cheese -is esteemed the best in Holland—is a Gothic Stadhuis, -and beyond it, the Groote Kerk of 1552, of which -the bare interior is enlivened by the stained windows -executed by Wonter and Dirk Crabeth in 1555-57. -We were the better able to understand the design of -these noble windows because the cartoon for each -was spread upon the pavement in front of it; but one -could not help one's attention being unpleasantly distracted -by the number of men of the burgher class, -smoking and with their hats on, who were allowed to -use the church as a promenade. Gouda also made an -unpleasant impression upon us, because, expensive -as we found every hotel in Holland, we were nowhere -so outrageously cheated as here.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_021.jpg" id="i_021" alt="" width="580" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter">THE VIJVER.</p> -</div> - -<p>It is a brief journey to the Hague—La Haye, -Gravenhage—most delightful of little capitals, with its -comfortable hotels and pleasant surroundings. The -town is still so small that it seems to merit the name -of 'the largest village in Europe,' which was given to -it because the jealousy of other towns prevented its -having any vote in the States General till the time of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>Louis Bonaparte, who gave it the privileges of a city. -It is said that the Hague, more than any other place, -may recall what Versailles was just before the great -revolution. It has thoroughly the aspect of a little -royal city. Without any of the crowd and bustle -of Amsterdam and Rotterdam, it is not dead like the -smaller towns of Holland; indeed, it even seems to -have a quiet gaiety, without dissipation, of its own. -All around are parks and gardens, whence wide streets -lead speedily through the new town of the rich bourgeoisie -to the old central town of stadholders, where -a beautiful lake, the Vijver, or fish-pond, comes as a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>surprise, with the eccentric old palace of the Binnenhof -rising straight out of its waters. We had been -told it was picturesque, but were prepared for nothing -so charming as the variety of steep roofs and towers, -the clear reflections, the tufted islet, and the beautiful -colouring of the whole scene of the Vijver. Skirting -the lake, we entered the precincts of the palace through -the picturesque Gudevangen Poort, where Cornelius -de Witte, Burgomaster of Dort, was imprisoned in -1672, on a false accusation of having suborned the -surgeon William Tichelaur to murder the Prince of -Orange. He was dragged out hence and torn to -pieces by the people, together with his brother Jean -de Witte, Grand Pensioner, whose house remains hard -by in the Kneuterdijk.</p> - -<p>The court of the Binnenhof is exceedingly handsome, -and contains the ancient Gothic Hall of the -Knights, where Johann van Olden Barneveld, Grand -Pensioner, or Prime Minister, was condemned to death -'for having conspired to dismember the States of the -Netherlands, and greatly troubled God's Church,' and -in the front of which (May 24, 1619) he was beheaded.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_023.jpg" id="i_023" alt="" width="586" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter">HALL OF THE KNIGHTS, THE HAGUE.</p> -</div> - -<p>Close to the north-east gate of the Binnenhof is -the handsome house called Mauritshuis, containing -the inestimable Picture Gallery of the Hague, which -will bear many visits, and has the great charm of not -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>being huge beyond the powers of endurance. On the -ground floor are chiefly portraits, amongst which a -simple dignified priest by Philippe de Champaigne, -with a far-away expression, will certainly arrest attention. -Deeply interesting is the portrait by Ravesteyn -of William the Silent, in his ruff and steel armour -embossed with gold—a deeply lined face, with a slight -peaked beard. His widow, Louise de Coligny, is also -represented. There is a fine portrait by Schalcken -of our William the Third. Noble likenesses of Sir -George Sheffield and his wife Anna Wake, by Vandyke, -are a pleasing contrast to the many works of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>Rubens. There are deeply interesting portraits by -Albert Dürer and Holbein.</p> - -<p>On the first floor we must sit down before the -great picture which Rembrandt painted in his twenty-sixth -year (1632) of the School of Anatomy. Here -the shrewd professor, Nicholaus Tulp, with a face -brimming with knowledge and intelligence, is expounding -the anatomy of a corpse to a number of -members of the guild of surgeons, some of whom are -full of eager interest and inquiry, whilst others are inattentive: -the dead figure is greatly foreshortened -and not repulsive. In another room, a fine work of -Thomas de Keyser represents the Four Burgomasters -of Amsterdam hearing of the arrival of Marie de -Medicis. A beautiful work of Adrian van Ostade is -full of light and character—but only represents a -stolid boor drinking to the health of a fiddler, while -a child plays with a dog in the background.</p> - -<p>A group of admirers will always be found round -'the Immortal Bull' of Paul Potter, which was considered -the fourth picture in importance in the Louvre, -when the spoils of Europe were collected at Paris. -De Amicis says, 'It lives, it breathes; with his bull -Paul Potter has written the true Idyl of Holland.' -It is, however—being really a group of cattle—not a -pleasing, though a life-like picture. Much more -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>attractive is the exquisite 'Presentation' of Rembrandt -(1631), in which Joseph and Mary, simple peasants, -present the Holy Child to Simeon, a glorious old -man in a jewelled robe, who invokes a blessing upon -the infant, while other priests look on with interest. -A wonderful ray of light, falling upon the principal -group, illuminates the whole temple. Perhaps the -most beautiful work in the whole gallery is the Young -Housekeeper of Gerard Dou. A lovely young woman -sits at work by an open window looking into a street. -By her side is the baby asleep in its cradle, over which -the maid is leaning. The light falls on the chandelier -and all the household belongings of a well-to-do citizen: -in all there is the same marvellous finish; it is said -that the handle of the broom took three days to paint.</p> - -<p>There is not much to discover in the streets of the -Hague. In the great square called the Plein is the -statue of William the Silent, with his finger raised, -erected in 1848 'by the grateful people to the father -of their fatherland.' In the fish-market, tame storks -are kept, for the same reason that bears are kept at -Berne, because storks are the arms of the town. But -the chief attraction of the place lies in its lovely -walks amid the noble beeches and oaks of the Bosch, -beyond which on the left is Huis ten Bosch, the Petit -Trianon of the Hague, the favourite palace of Queen -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>Sophie, who held her literary court and died there. -It is a quiet country house, looking out upon flats, with -dykes and a windmill. All travellers seem to visit it,—which -must be a ceaseless surprise to the extortionate -custode to whom they have to pay a gulden a head, -and who will hurry them rapidly through some commonplace -rooms in which there is nothing really worth -seeing. One room is covered with paintings of the -Rubens school, amid which, high in the dome, is a -portrait of the Princess Amalia of Solms, who built -the house in 1647.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_026.jpg" id="i_026" alt="" width="650" height="362" /> -<p class="captioncenter">SCHEVENINGEN.</p> -</div> - -<p>A tram takes people for twopence halfpenny to -Scheveningen through the park, a thick wood with -charming forest scenery. As the trees become more -scattered, the roar of the North Sea is heard upon the -shore. Above the sands, on the dunes or sand-hills, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>which extend from the Helder to Dunkirk, is a broad -terrace, lined on one side by a row of wooden pavilions -with flags and porticoes, and below it are long -lines of tents, necessary in the intense glare, while, -nearer the waves, are thousands of beehive-like -refuges, with a single figure seated in each. The flat -monotonous shore would soon pall upon one, yet -through the whole summer it is an extraordinary lively -scene. The placid happiness of Dutch family life has -here taken possession. On Sunday afternoons, -especially, the sands seem as crowded with human -existence as they are represented in the picture of -Lingelbach, which we have seen in the Mauritshuis, -portraying the vast multitude assembled here to witness -the embarkation of Charles <abbr title="the second">II</abbr>. for England.</p> - -<p>An excursion must be made to Delft, only twenty -minutes distant from the Hague by rail. Pepys calls -it 'a most sweet town, with bridges and a river in -every street,' and that is a tolerably accurate description. -It seems thinly inhabited, and the Dutch themselves -look upon it as a place where one will die of -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ennui</i>. It has scarcely changed with two hundred -years. The view of Delft by Van der Meer in the -Museum at the Hague might have been painted -yesterday. All the trees are clipped, for in artificial -Holland every work of Nature is artificialised. At -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>certain seasons, numbers of storks may be seen upon -the chimney-tops, for Delft is supposed to be the stork -town <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">par excellence</i>. Near the shady canal Oude Delft -is a low building, once the Convent of S. Agata, with -an ornamented door surmounted by a relief, leading -into a courtyard. It is a common barrack now, for -Holland, which has no local histories, has no regard -whatever for its historic associations or monuments. -Yet this is the greatest shrine of Dutch history, for it -is here that William the Silent died.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_028.jpg" id="i_028" alt="" width="325" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter">ENTRANCE TO S. AGATA, DELFT.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p> -<p>Philip <abbr title="the second">II</abbr>. had promised 25,000 crowns of gold to -any one who would murder the Prince of Orange. -An attempt had already been made, but had failed, -and William refused to take any measures for self-protection, -saying, 'It is useless: my years are in -the hands of God: if there is a wretch who has no -fear of death, my life is in his hand, however I may -guard it.' At length, a young man of seven-and-twenty -appeared at Delft, who gave himself out to be -one Guyon, a Protestant, son of Pierre Guyon, executed -at Besançon for having embraced Calvinism, -and declared that he was exiled for his religion. -Really he was Balthazar Gerard, a bigoted Catholic, -but his conduct in Holland soon procured him the -reputation of an evangelical saint. The Prince took -him into his service and sent him to accompany a -mission from the States of Holland to the Court of -France, whence he returned to bring the news of the -death of the Duke of Anjou to William. At that -time the Prince was living with his court in the convent -of S. Agata, where he received Balthazar alone -in his chamber. The moment was opportune, but the -would-be assassin had no arms ready. William gave -him a small sum of money and bade him hold himself -in readiness to be sent back to France. With -the money Balthazar bought two pistols from a soldier -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>(who afterwards killed himself when he heard the use -which was made of the purchase). On the next day, -June 10, 1584, Balthazar returned to the convent as -William was descending the staircase to dinner, with -his fourth wife, Louise de Coligny (daughter of the -Admiral who fell in the massacre of S. Bartholomew), -on his arm. He presented his passport and begged -the Prince to sign it, but was told to return later. At -dinner the Princess asked William who was the young -man who had spoken to him, for his expression was -the most terrible she had ever seen. The Prince -laughed, said it was Guyon, and was as gay as usual. -Dinner being over, the family party were about to remount -the staircase. The assassin was waiting in a -dark corner at the foot of the stairs, and as William -passed he discharged a pistol with three balls and -fled. The Prince staggered, saying, 'I am wounded; -God have mercy upon me and my poor people.' His -sister Catherine van Schwartzbourg asked, 'Do you -trust in Jesus Christ?' He said, 'Yes,' with a feeble -voice, sat down upon the stairs, and died.</p> - -<p>Balthazar reached the rampart of the town in -safety, hoping to swim to the other side of the moat, -where a horse awaited him. But he had dropped his -hat and his second pistol in his flight, and so he was -traced and seized before he could leap from the wall. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>Amid horrible tortures, he not only confessed, but -continued to triumph in his crime. His judges believed -him to be possessed of the devil. The next -day he was executed. His right hand was burnt off -in a tube of red-hot iron: the flesh of his arms and -legs was torn off with red-hot pincers; but he never -made a cry. It was not till his breast was cut open, -and his heart torn out and flung in his face, that he -expired. His head was then fixed on a pike, and his -body cut into four quarters, exposed on the four gates -of the town.</p> - -<p>Close to the Prinsenhof is the Oude Kerk with a -leaning tower. It is arranged like a very ugly theatre -inside, but contains, with other tombs of celebrities, -the monument of Admiral van Tromp, 1650—'Martinus -Harberti Trompius'—whose effigy lies upon his -back, with swollen feet. It was this Van Tromp who -defeated the English fleet under Blake, and perished, -as represented on the monument, in an engagement -off Scheveningen. It was he who, after his victory -over the English, caused a broom to be hoisted at his -mast-head to typify that he had swept the Channel -clear of his enemies.</p> - -<p>The Nieuwe Kerk in the Groote Markt (1412-76) -contains the magnificent monument of William the -Silent by Hendrik de Keyser and A. Quellin (1621). -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>Black marble columns support a white canopy over -the white sleeping figure of the Prince, who is represented -in his little black silk cap, as he is familiar -to us in his pictures. In the recesses of the tomb—'<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">somptueux -et tourmenté</i>,' as Montégut calls it—are -statues of Liberty, Justice, Prudence, and Religion. -At the feet of William lies his favourite dog, which -saved his life from midnight assassins at Malines, -by awakening him. At the head of the tomb is -another figure of William, of bronze, seated. In the -same church is a monument to Hugo Grotius—'prodigium -Europae'—the greatest lawyer of the seventeenth -century, presented to Henri <abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>. by Barneveld -as 'La merveille de la Hollande.'</p> - -<p>On leaving the Hague a few hours should be -given to the dull university town of Leyden, unless it -has been seen as an afternoon excursion from the -capital. This melancholy and mildewed little town, -mouldering from a century of stagnation, the birthplace -of Rembrandt, surrounds the central tower of -its Burg—standing in the grounds of an inn, which -exacts payment from those who visit it. Close by is -the huge church of S. Pancras—Houglansche Kerk—of -the fifteenth century, containing the tomb of Van -der Werff, burgomaster during the famous siege, who -answered the starving people, when they came demand<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>ing -bread or surrender, that he had 'sworn to defend the -city, and, with God's help, he meant to keep his oath, -but that if his body would help them to prolong the -defence, they might take it and share it amongst those -who were most hungry.' A covered bridge over a -canal leads to the Bredenstrasse, where there is a -picturesque grey stone Stadhuis of the sixteenth -century. It contains the principal work of Cornelius -Engelbrechtsen of Leyden (1468-1533), one of the -earliest of Dutch painters—an altarpiece representing -the Crucifixion, with the Sacrifice of Abraham and -Worship of the Brazen Serpent in the side panels, -as symbols of the Atonement: on the pedestal is -a naked body, out of which springs a tree—the -tree of life—and beside it kneel the donors. The -neighbouring church of S. Peter (1315) contains -the tomb of Boerhaave, the physician, whose lectures -in the University were attended by Peter the Great, -and for whom a Chinese mandarin found 'à l'illustre -M. Boerhaave, médecin, en Europe,' quite sufficient -direction. Boerhaave was the doctor who said that -the poor were his best patients, for God paid for -them.</p> - -<p>The streets are grass-grown, the houses damp, the -canals green with weed. The University has fallen -into decadence since others were established at -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>Utrecht, Groningen, and Amsterdam; but Leyden is -still the most flourishing of the four. When William -of Orange offered the citizens freedom from taxes, as -a reward for their endurance of the famous siege, they -thanked him, but said they would rather have a university. -Grotius and Cartesius (Descartes), Arminius -and Gomar, were amongst its professors, and the -University possesses an admirable botanical museum -and a famous collection of Japanese curiosities.</p> - -<p>The Rhine cuts up the town of Leyden into endless -islands, connected by a hundred and fifty bridges. -On a quiet canal near the Beesten Markt is the -Museum, which contains the 'Last Judgment' of -Lucas van Leyden (1494-1533), a scholar of Engelbrechtsen, -and one of the patriarchs of Dutch -painting.</p> - -<p>A few minutes bring us from Leyden to Haarlem -by the railway. It crosses an isthmus between the -sea and a lake which covered the whole country -between Leyden, Haarlem, and Amsterdam till 1839, -when it became troublesome, and the States-General -forthwith, after the fashion of Holland, voted its -destruction. Enormous engines were at once employed -to drain it by pumping the water into canals, -which carried it to the sea, and the country was the -richer by a new province.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_035.jpg" id="i_035" alt="" width="580" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter">MARKET-PLACE, HAARLEM.</p> -</div> - -<p>Haarlem, on the river Spaarne, stands out distinct -in recollection from all other Dutch towns, for it has -the most picturesque market-place in Holland—the -Groote Markt—surrounded by quaint houses of -varied outline, amidst which rises the Groote Kerk -of S. Bavo, a noble cruciform fifteenth-century -building. The interior, however, is as bare and -hideous as all other Dutch churches. It contains a -monument to the architect Conrad, designer of the -famous locks of Katwijk, 'the defender of Holland -against the fury of the sea and the power of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>tempests.' Behind the choir is the tomb of the poet -Bilderdijk, who only died in 1831, and near this the -grave of Laurenz Janzoom—the Coster or Sacristan—who -is asserted in his native town, but never believed -outside it, to have been the real inventor of -printing, as he is said to have cut out letters in wood, -and taken impressions from them in ink, as early as -1423. His partisans also maintain that whilst he -was attending a midnight mass, praying for patience -to endure the ill-treatment of his enemies, all his -implements were stolen, and that when he found -this out on his return he died of grief. It is further -declared that the robber was Faust of Mayence, the -brother of Gutenberg, and that it was thus that the -honour of the invention passed from Holland to -Germany, where Gutenberg produced his invention -of movable type twelve years later. There is a -statue of the Coster in front of the church, and, on -its north side, his house is preserved and adorned -with his bust.</p> - -<p>Amongst a crowd of natives with their hats on, -talking in church as in the market-place, we waited -to hear the famous organ of Christian Muller -(1735-38), and grievously were we disappointed with -its discordant noises. All the men smoked in -church, and this we saw repeatedly; but it would -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>be difficult to say where we ever saw a Dutchman -with a pipe out of his mouth. Every man seemed -to be systematically smoking away the few wits he -possessed.</p> - -<p>Opposite the Groote Kerk is the Stadhuis, an old -palace of the Counts of Holland remodelled. It -contains a delightful little gallery of the works of -Franz Hals, which at once transports the spectator -into the Holland of two hundred years ago—such is -the marvellous variety of life and vigour impressed -into its endless figures of stalwart officers and handsome -young archers pledging each other at banquet -tables and seeming to welcome the visitor with jovial -smiles as he enters the chamber, or of serene old -ladies, 'regents' of hospitals, seated at their council -boards. The immense power of the artist is shown -in nothing so much as in the hands, often gloved, -dashed in with instantaneous power, yet always -having the effect of the most consummate finish at a -distance. Behind one of the pictures is the entrance -to the famous 'secret-room of Haarlem,' seldom seen, -but containing an inestimable collection of historic -relics of the time of the famous siege of Leyden.</p> - -<p>April and May are the best months for visiting -Haarlem, which is the bulb nursery garden of the -world. 'Oignons à fleurs' are advertised for sale -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>everywhere. Tulips are more cultivated than any -other flowers, as ministering most to the national -craving for colour; but times are changed since a -single bulb of the tulip 'L'Amiral Liefkenshoch' -sold for 4,500 florins, one of 'Viceroy' for 4,200, -and one of 'Semper Augustus' for 13,000.</p> - -<p>Now we entered Amsterdam, to which we had -looked forward as the climax of our tour, having -read of it and pondered upon it as 'the Venice of -the north;' but our expectations were raised much -too high. Anything more unlike Venice it would -be difficult to imagine: and there is a terrible want -of variety and colour; many of the smaller towns of -Holland are far more interesting and infinitely more -picturesque.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_039.jpg" id="i_039" alt="" width="595" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> MILL NEAR AMSTERDAM.</p> -</div> - -<p>A castle was built at Amsterdam in 1204, but -the town only became important in the sixteenth -century, since which it has been the most commercial -of ancient European cities. It is situated upon the -influx of the Amstel to the Y, as the arm of the -Zuider Zee which forms the harbour is called, and it -occupies a huge semicircle, its walls being enclosed -by the broad moat, six and a half miles long, which -is known as Buitensingel. The greater part of the -houses are built on piles, causing Erasmus to say -that the inhabitants lived on trees like rooks. In -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>the centre of the town is the great square called -Dam, one side of which is occupied by the handsome -Royal Palace—Het Palais—built by J. van Kampen -in 1648. The Nieuwe Kerk (1408-1470) contains a -number of monuments to admirals, including those of -Van Ruiter—'immensi tremor oceani'—who commanded -at the battle of Solbay, and Van Speyk, -who blew himself up with his ship in 1831, rather -than yield to the Belgians. In the Oude Kerk of -1300 there are more tombs of admirals. Hard by, -in the Nieuwe Markt, is the picturesque cluster of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>fifteenth-century towers called S. Anthonieswaag, -once a city gate and now a weighing-house.</p> - -<p>But the great attraction of Amsterdam is the -Picture Gallery of the Trippenhuis, called the Rijks -Museum, and it deserves many visits. Amongst the -portraits in the first room we were especially attracted -by that of William the Silent in his skull-cap, by -Miereveld, but all the House of Orange are represented -here from the first to the last. We also see -all the worthies of the nation—Ruyter, Van Tromp -and his wife, Grotius and his wife, Johann and -Cornelis de Witt, Johann van Oldenharneveldt, and -his wife Maria of Utrecht, a peaceful old lady in a -ruff and brown dress edged with fur, by Moreelse. -The two great pictures of the gallery hang opposite -each other. That by Bartholomew van der Helst, -the most famous of Dutch portrait-painters, represents -the Banquet of the Musqueteers, who thus -celebrated the Peace of Westphalia, June 18, 1648. -It contains twenty-five life-size portraits, is the best -work of the master, and was pronounced by Sir -Joshua Reynolds to be the 'first picture of portraits -in the world.' The canvas is a mirror faithfully -representing a scene of actual life. In the centre -sits the jovial, rollicking Captain de Wits with his -legs crossed. The delicate imitation of reality is -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>equally shown in the Rhenish wine-glasses, and in -the ham to which one of the guests is helping -himself.</p> - -<p>The rival picture is the 'Night Watch' of Rembrandt -(1642), representing Captain Frans Banning -Kok of Purmerland and his lieutenant Willem van -Ruytenberg of Vlaardingen, emerging from their -watch-house on the Singel. A joyous troop pursue -their leader, who is in a black dress. A strange light -comes upon the scene, who can tell whence? Half -society has always said that this picture was the -marvel of the world, half that it is unworthy of its -artist; but no one has ever been quite indifferent to it.</p> - -<p>Of the other pictures we must at least notice, by -Nicholas Maas, a thoughtful girl leaning on a cushion -out of a window with apricots beneath; and by Jan -Steen, 'The Parrot Cage,' a simple scene of tavern -life, in which the waiting-maid calls to the parrot -hanging aloft, who looks knowingly out of the cage, -whilst all the other persons present go on with their -different employments. In the 'Eve of S. Nicholas,' -another work of the same artist, a naughty boy finds -a birch-rod in his shoe, and a good little girl, laden -with gifts, is being praised by her mother, whilst -other children are looking up the chimney by which -the discriminating fairy Befana is supposed to have -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>taken her departure. There are many beautiful -works of Ruysdael, most at home amongst waterfalls; -a noble Vandyke of 'William <abbr title="the second">II</abbr>.' as a boy, -with his little bride, Mary Stuart, Charles <abbr title="the first">I</abbr>.'s -daughter, in a brocaded silver dress; and the famous -Terburg called 'Paternal Advice' (known in England -by its replica at Bridgewater House), in which a -daughter in white satin is receiving a lecture from -her father, her back turned to the spectator, and -her annoyance, or repentance, only exhibited in her -shoulders. Another famous work of Terburg is 'The -Letter,' which is being brought in by a trumpeter to -an officer seated in his uniform, with his young wife -kneeling at his side. Of Gerard Dou Amsterdam -possesses the wonderful 'Evening School,' with four -luminous candles, and some thoroughly Dutch children. -A girl is laboriously following with her finger -the instructions received, and a boy is diligently -writing on a slate. The girl who stands behind, -instructing him, is holding a candle which throws a -second light upon his back, that upon the table -falling on his features; indeed the painting is often -known as the 'Picture of the Four Candles.'</p> - -<p>Through the labyrinthine quays we found our -way to the Westerhoof to take the afternoon steamer -to Purmerende for an excursion to Broek, 'the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>cleanest village in the world.' Crossing the broad -Amstel, the vessel soon enters a canal, which sometimes -lies at a great depth, nothing being visible but -the tops of masts and points of steeples; and which -then, after passing locks, becomes level with the tops -of the trees and the roofs of the houses. We left the -steamer at T Schouw, and entered, on a side canal, -one of the trekschuiten, which, until the time of -railroads, were the usual means of travel—a long -narrow cabin, encircled by seats, forms the whole -vessel, and is drawn by a horse ridden by a boy (het-jagerte)—a -most agreeable easy means of locomotion, -for movement is absolutely imperceptible.</p> - -<p>No place was ever more exaggerated than Broek. -There is really very little remarkable in it, except -even a greater sense of dampness and ooziness than -in the other Dutch villages. It was autumn, and -there seemed no particular attempt to remove the -decaying vegetation or trim the little gardens, or to -sweep up the dead leaves upon the pathways, yet -there used to be a law that no animal was to enter -Broek for fear of its being polluted. A brick path -winds amongst the low wooden cottages, painted blue, -green, and white, and ends at the church, with its -miniature tombstones.</p> - -<p>The most interesting excursion to be made from -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>Amsterdam is that to the Island of Marken in the -Zuider Zee—a huge meadow, where the peasant -women pass their whole lives without ever seeing -anything beyond their island, whilst their husbands, -who with very few exceptions are fishermen, see -nothing beyond the fisher-towns of the Zuider -Zee. There are very picturesque costumes here, -the men wearing red woollen shirts, brown vests, -wooden shoes, fur caps, and gold buttons to their -collars and knickerbockers; the women, embroidered -stomachers, which are handed down for generations, -and enormous white caps, lined with brown to show -off the lace, and with a chintz cover for week days, -and their own hair flowing below the cap over their -shoulders and backs.</p> - -<p>An evening train, with an old lady, in a diamond -tiara and gold pins, for our companion, took us to the -Helder, and we awoke next morning at the pleasant -little inn of Du Burg upon a view of boats and nets -and the low-lying Island of Texel in the distance. -The boats and the fishermen are extremely picturesque, -but there is nothing else to see, after the -visitor has examined the huge granite Helder Dyke, -the artificial fortification of north Holland, which -contends successfully to preserve the land against the -sea. There is an admirably managed Naval Institute -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span>here. It was by an expedition from the Helder that -Nova Zembla was discovered, and it was near this -that Admirals Ruyter and Tromp repulsed the English -fleet. Texel, which lies opposite the Helder, is the -first of a chain of islands—Vlieland, Terschelling, -and Ameland, which protect the entrance of the -Zuider Zee.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_046.jpg" id="i_046" alt="" width="450" height="309" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> APPROACH TO ALKMAAR.</p> -</div> - -<p>The country near the Helder is bare and desolate -in the extreme. It is all peat, and the rest of Holland -uses it as a fuel mine. It was here that the genius of -Ruysdael was often able to make a single tree, or even -a bush rising out of the flat by a stagnant pool, both -interesting and charming to the spectator. We crossed -the levels to Alkmaar, which struck us as being altogether -the prettiest place in the country and as possessing -all those attributes of cleanliness which are -usually given to Broek. The streets, formed of bricks -fitted close together, are absolutely spotless, and every -house front shines fresh from the mop or the syringe. -Yet excessive cleanliness has not destroyed the picturesqueness -of the place. The fifteenth-century -church of S. Lawrence, of exquisitely graceful exterior, -rises in the centre of the town, and, in spite of -being hideously defaced inside, has a fine vaulted roof, -a coloured screen, and, in the chancel, a curious tomb -to Florens <abbr title="the fifth">V</abbr>., Count of Holland, 1296, though only -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>his heart is buried there. Near the excellent Hôtel -du Burg is a most bewitching almshouse, with an old -tourelle and screen, and a lovely garden in a court -surrounded by clipped lime-trees. And more charming -still is an old weigh-house of 1582, for the cheese, -the great manufacture of the district, for which there -is a famous market every Friday, where capital costumes -may be seen. The rich and gaily painted façade -of the old building, reflected in a clear canal, is a -perfect marvel of beauty and colour; and artists -should stay here to paint—not the view given here, -but another which we discovered too late—more in -front, with gable-ended houses leading up to the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>principal building, and all its glowing colours repeated -in the water.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_047.jpg" id="i_047" alt="" width="339" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> THE WEIGH-HOUSE, ALKMAAR.</p> -</div> - -<p>It is three hours' drive from Alkmaar to Hoorn, -a charming old town with bastions, gardens, and -semi-ruined gates. On the West Poort a relief commemorates -the filial devotion of a poor boy, who -arrived here in 1579, laboriously dragging his old -mother in a sledge, when all were flying from the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>Spaniards. Opposite the weighing-house for the -cheeses is the State College, which bears a shield with -the arms of England, sustained by two negroes. It -commemorates the fact that when Van Tromp defeated -the English squadron, his ships came from Hoorn and -on board were two negroes, who took from the English -flagship the shield which it was then the custom to -fix to the stern of a vessel, and brought it back here -as a trophy. Hoorn was one of the first places in -Holland to embrace the reformed religion, which -spread from hence all over the country, but now not -above half the inhabitants are Calvinists.</p> - -<p>In returning from Alkmaar we stopped to see -Zaandam, quite in the centre of the land of windmills, -of which we counted eighty as visible from the station -alone. They are of every shade of colour, and are -mounted on poles, on towers, on farm buildings, and -made picturesque by every conceivable variety of prop, -balcony, gallery, and insertion. Zaandam is a very -pretty village on the Zaan which flows into the Y, -with gaily painted houses, and gay little gardens, and -perpetual movement to and from its landing-stage. -Turning south from thence, a little entry on the right -leads down some steps and over a bridge to some -cottages on the bank of a ditch, and inside the last -of these is the tiny venerable hovel where Peter the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>Great stayed in 1697 as Peter Michaeloff. It retains -its tiled roof and contains some old chairs and a box-bed, -but unfortunately Peter was only here a week.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_049.jpg" id="i_049" alt="" width="382" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> MILL AT ZAANDAM.</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_050.jpg" id="i_050" alt="" width="301" height="460" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> PAUSHUIZEN, UTRECHT.</p> -</div> - -<p>The evening of leaving Zaandam we spent at -Utrecht, of which the name is so well known from -the peace which terminated the war of the Spanish -succession, April 11, 1715. The town, long the seat -of an ecclesiastical court, was also the great centre of -the Jansenists, dissenters from Roman Catholicism -under Jansenius, Bishop of Ypres, condemned by -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>Alexander <abbr title="the seventh">VII</abbr>. in 1656, at the instigation of the -Jesuits. The doctrines of Jansenius still linger in its -gloomy houses. Every appointment of a bishop is -still announced to the Sovereign Pontiff, who as regularly -responds by a bull of excommunication, which is -read aloud in the cathedral, and then immediately -put away and forgotten. Solemn and sad, but pre-eminently -respectable, Utrecht has more the aspect of -a decayed German city than a Dutch town, and so -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>has its Cathedral of S. Martin (1254-67), which, -though the finest Gothic building in Holland, is only -a magnificent fragment, with a detached tower (1321-82) -338 feet high. The interior as usual is ruined by -Calvinism and yellow paint. It contains the tomb of -Admiral van Gent, who fell in the battle of Solbay. -The nave, which fell in 1674, has never been rebuilt. -The S. Pieterskerk (1039) and S. Janskerk offer nothing -remarkable, but on a neighbouring canal is the -quaint Paushuizen, or Pope's house, which was built -by Pope Adrian <abbr title="the sixth">VI</abbr>. (Adrian Floriszoom) in 1517. -Near this is the pretty little Archiepiscopal Museum, -full of mediæval relics.</p> - -<p>The interesting Moravian establishment of Zeist -may be visited from Utrecht.</p> - -<p>From Utrecht we travelled over sandy flats to -Kampen, near the mouth of the wide river Yssel, with -three picturesque gates—Haghen Poort, Cellebroeders -Poort, and Broeders Poort; and a town hall of the -sixteenth century. Here, as frequently elsewhere in -Holland, we suffered from arriving famished at midday. -All the inns were equally inhospitable: 'The -table d'hôte is at 4 <small>P.M.</small>: we <em>cannot</em> and <em>will not</em> be -bothered with cooking before that, and there is nothing -cold in the house.' 'But you have surely bread -and cheese?' 'Certainly not—<em>nothing</em>.'</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_052.jpg" id="i_052" alt="" width="297" height="490" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> CELLEBROEDERS POORT, KAMPEN.</p> -</div> - -<p>At Zwolle, however, we found the Kroon an excellent -hotel with an obliging landlord; and Zwolle, -the native place of Terburg (1608), is a charming old -town with a girdle of gardens, a fine church (externally), -and a noble brick gateway called the Sassenpoort.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_053.jpg" id="i_053" alt="" width="329" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> SASSENPOORT, AT ZWOLLE.</p> -</div> - -<p>It was more the desire of seeing something of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>whole country than anything else, and a certain -degree of misplaced confidence in the pleasant volumes -of Harvard, which took us up from Zwolle, through -Friesland, the cow-paradise, to Leeuwarden, its ancient -capital. Sad and gloomy as most other towns of -Holland are, Leeuwarden is sadder and gloomier still. -Its streets are wide and not otherwise than handsome, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>but they are almost deserted, and there are no objects -of interest to see unless a leaning tower can be called -so, with a top, like that at Pisa, inclined the other way, -to keep it from toppling over. An hour's walk from -the town there is said to be a fine still-inhabited castle, -and, if time had allowed, respect for S. Boniface would -have taken us to Murmerwoude, where he was martyred -(June 8, 853), with his fifty-three companions. -King Pepin raised a hermitage on the spot, and an -ancient brick chapel still exists there.</p> - -<p>Here and elsewhere in Friesland nothing is so -worthy of notice as the helmets—the golden helmets -of the women—costing something equivalent to 25<i>l.</i> -or 30<i>l.</i>, handed down as heirlooms, fitting close to -the head, and not allowing a particle of hair to be -visible.</p> - -<p>In the late evening we went on to Groningen, a -university town with a good hotel (Seven Provincen), -an enormous square, and a noble tall Gothic tower of -1627, whence the watchman still sounds his bugle. -Not far off is Midwolde, where the village church has -fine tombs of Charles Jerome, Baron d'Inhausen and -his wife, Anna von Ewsum.</p> - -<p>As late as the sixteenth century this province was -for the most part uninhabited—savage and sandy, and -overrun by wolves. But three hundred years of hard -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>work has transformed it into a fertile country, watered -by canals, and sprinkled with country houses. Agriculturally -it is one of the richest provinces of the -kingdom. This is mostly due to its possessing a race -of peasant-farmers who never shrink from personal -hard work, and who will continue to direct the plough -whilst they send their sons to the university to study -as lawyers, doctors, or churchmen. These peasant -farmers or boers possess the <i lang="nl" xml:lang="nl">beklemregt</i>, or right of -hiring land on an annual rent, which the landlord can -never increase. A peasant can bequeath his right to -his heirs, whether direct or collateral. To the land, -this system is an indescribable advantage, the cultivators -doing their utmost to bring their lands to perfection, -because they are certain that no one can take -away the advantage from themselves or their descendants.</p> - -<p>On leaving Groningen we traversed the grey, -monotonous, desolate district of the Drenthe, sprinkled -over at intervals by the curious ancient groups of -stones called Hunnebedden, or beds of death (Hun -meaning death), beneath which urns of clay containing -human ashes have been found. From Deventer -(where there is an old weigh-house, and a cathedral -of S. Lievin with a crypt and nave of 1334), -time did not allow us to make an excursion to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>the great royal palace of Het Loo, the favourite -residence of the sovereigns. The descriptions in -Harvard rather made us linger unnecessarily at Zutphen, -a dull town, with a brick Groote Kerk (S. Walpurgis) -which has little remaining of its original -twelfth-century date, and a rather picturesque 'bit' -on the walls, where the 'Waterpoort' crosses the -river like a bridge.</p> - -<p>At Arnhem, the Roman Arenacum, once the residence -of the Dukes of Gueldres, and still the capital -of Guelderland, we seemed to have left all the characteristics -of Holland behind. Numerous modern villas, -which might have been built for Cheltenham or -Leamington, cover the wooded hills above the Rhine. -In the Groote Kerk (1452) is a curious monument of -Charles van Egmont, Duc de Gueldres, 1538, but -there is nothing else to remark upon. We intended -to have made an excursion hence to Cleves, but desperately -wet weather set in, and, as Dutch rain often -lasts for weeks together when it once begins, we were -glad to hurry England-wards, only regretting that we -could not halt at Nymegen, a most picturesque place, -where Charlemagne lived in the old palace of the -Valckhof (or Waalhof, residence on the Waal), of -which a fragment still exists, with an old baptistery, -a Stadhuis of 1534, and a Groote Kerk containing a -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>noble monument to Catherine de Bourbon (1469), wife -of Duke Adolph of Gueldres.</p> - -<p>We left Holland feeling that we should urge our -friends by all means to see the pictures at Rotterdam, -the Hague, and Amsterdam, but to look for all other -characteristics of the Netherlands in such places as -Breda, Dortrecht, Haarlem, Alkmaar, and Zwolle.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="IN_DENMARK" id="IN_DENMARK"></a><i>IN DENMARK.</i></h2> - - -<p class="drop-cap">FORMERLY the terrors of a sea-voyage from -Kiel deterred many travellers from thinking of -a tour in Denmark or Sweden, but now a succession -of railways makes everything easy, and while nothing -can be imagined more invigorating or pleasant, there -is probably no pleasure more economical than a summer -in Scandinavia. Those who are worn with a -London season will feel as if every breath in the -crystal air of Denmark endued them with fresh health -and strength, and then, after they have seen its old -palaces and its beech woods and its Thorwaldsen -sculptures, a voyage of ten minutes will carry them -over the narrow Sound to the soft beauties of genial -Sweden and the wild splendours of Norway.</p> - -<p>Either Hamburg or Lübeck must be the starting-point -for the overland route to Denmark, and the old -free city of Lübeck, though quite a small place, is one -of the most remarkable towns in Germany. We arrived -there one hot summer afternoon, after a weary -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>journey over the arid sandy plains which separate it -from Berlin, and suddenly seemed to be transported into -a land of verdure. Lilacs and roses bloomed everywhere; -a wood lined the bank of the limpid river -Trave, and in its waters—beyond the old wooden -bridge—were reflected all the tallest steeples, often -strangely out of the perpendicular, of many-towered -Lübeck. A wonderful gate of red brick and golden-hued -terra-cotta is the entrance from the station, and -in the market-place are the quaintest turrets, towers, -tourelles, but all ending in spires. The lofty houses, -so full of rich colour, throw cool shade on the streets -on the hottest summer day; and we enjoyed a -Sunday in the excellent hotel, with wooden galleries -opening towards a splashing fountain in a quiet -square, where a fat constable busied himself in keeping -everybody from fulfilling any avocation whatever -whilst service was being performed in the churches, -but let them do exactly as they pleased as soon as it -was over.</p> - -<p>It must, at best, be a weary journey across West -Holstein, through a succession of arid flats varied by -stagnant swamps. We spent the weary hours in -studying Dunham's 'History of Denmark, Sweden, -and Norway,' which cannot be sufficiently recommended -to all Scandinavian travellers. The glowing -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>accounts in the English guide books of a lake and an -old castle beguiled us into spending a night at Sleswig, -but it turned out that the lake had disappeared -before the memory of man, and that the castle was a -white modern barrack. The colourless town and its -long sleepy suburb, moored as if upon a raft in the -marshes, straggle along the edge of a waveless fiord. -At the end is the rugged cathedral like a barn, with -a belfry like a dovecot, and inside it a curious altarpiece -by Hans Brüggemann, pupil of Albert Dürer, -and the noble monument of Frederick <abbr title="the first">I</abbr>., the first -Lutheran King of Denmark; while richly carved -doors at the sides of the church admit one to see how -the grandmother of the Princess of Wales and various -other potentates lie—Danish fashion—in gorgeous -exposed coffins without any tombs at all. Everywhere -roses grow in the streets, trained upon the -house walls; and, up the pavement, crowds of the -children were hurrying in the early morning, carrying -in their hands the shoes they were going to wear when -they were in school. In the evenings these children -will not venture outside the town, for over the marshes -they say that the wild huntsman rides, followed by -his demon hounds and blowing his magic horn. It -is the spirit of Duke Abel the fratricide, who, in the -fens, murdered his brother Eric <abbr title="the sixth">VI</abbr>. of Denmark, and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>who was afterwards lost there himself, falling from -his horse, and being dragged down by the weight of -his armour. To give rest to his wandering spirit, the -clergy dug up his body and despatched it to Bremen, -but there his vampire gave the canons no peace, so -they sent the corpse back again, and now it lies once -more in the marshes of Gottorp.</p> - -<p>Most unutterably hideous is the country through -which the railway now travels, wearisome levels only -broken here and there by mounds, probably sepulchral. -A straight line with tiny hillocks at intervals -would do for a sketch of the whole of Sleswig and -the greater part of Funen and Zealand. In times of -early Danish history it was a frequent punishment to -bury criminals alive in these dismal peat mosses. -Twelve hours of changelessly flat scenery bring -travellers from Hamburg to Frederikshaven, where -we embark upon the Little Belt, the luggage-vans of -the train being shunted on board the steamer. Immediately -opposite lie the sandy shores of Funen, -and in a few minutes we are there. Then four hours -of ugly scenery take us across the island. It is only -necessary to look out at the little town of Odense, -called after the old hero-god, which was the birth-place -of Hans Christian Andersen in 1805. The -cathedral of Odense contains the shrine of the sainted -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span>King Canute <abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>. (1080-86), who was murdered -while kneeling before the altar, owing to indignation -at the severe taxation to which the love of Church -endowment had incited him.</p> - -<p>Nyborg, where we meet the sea again, will recall -to lovers of old ballads the story of the innocent -young knight Folker Lowmanson, and his cruel death -here in a barrel of spikes, from the jealousy of -Waldemar <abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>. for his beautiful queen Helwig, and -how, to know his fate—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">With anxious heart did Denmark's Queen</div> - <div class="indent9">To Nyborg urge her horse,</div> - <div class="verse">And at the gate his bier she met,</div> - <div class="indent9">And on it Folker's corse.</div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Such honour shown to son of knight</div> - <div class="indent9">I never yet could hear;</div> - <div class="verse">The Queen of Denmark walked on foot</div> - <div class="indent9">Herself before his bier.</div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">In tears then Helwig mounted horse</div> - <div class="indent9">And silent homeward rode,</div> - <div class="verse">For in her heart a life-long grief</div> - <div class="indent9">Had taken its abode.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>At Nyborg we embark on a miserable steamer for -the passage of the Great Belt. It lasts an hour and a -half, and is often most wretched. On landing at -Korsor travellers are hurried into the train which is -waiting for the vessel.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> -<p>Now the country improves a little. Here and -there we pass through great beech woods. Down -the green glades of one of them a glimpse is caught -of the college of Sorö. It occupies the site of a -monastery founded by Asker Ryg, a chieftain who, -when he departed on a journey of warfare, vowed that -if the child to which his wife, Inge, was about to give -birth proved to be a girl, he would give his new -building a spire, but a tower if it were a boy. On his -return he saw two towers rising in the distance. Inge -had given birth to twin sons, who lived to become -Asbiorn Snare, celebrated in the ballad of 'Fair -Christal,' and Absalon, the warrior Bishop of Roeskilde—'first -captain by sea and land.' Absalon is -buried here in the church of Sorö, which contains the -tomb of King Olaf, the shortlived son of the famous -Queen Margaret; of her cruel father, Waldemar -Atterdag, whose last words expressed regret that he -had not suffocated his daughter in her cradle; and -of her grandfather, Christopher <abbr title="the second">II</abbr>., with his wife, -Euphemia of Pomerania. Soon we pass Ringsted, -which is scarcely worth stopping at, though its church -contains the fine brass of King Erik Menred (1319) -and his queen, Ingeborga, and though twenty kings -and queens were entombed there before Roeskilde -became the royal place of sepulture. Amongst them -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>lies the popular Queen Dagmar, first wife of Waldemar -<abbr title="the second">II</abbr>., still celebrated in ballad literature, for there is -scarcely a Dane who is ignorant of the touching story -of 'Queen Dagmar's Death,' which begins</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Queen Dagmar is lying at Ribé sick,</div> - <div class="indent9">At Ringsted is made her grave,</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent1">and which contains her last touching request to her -husband, and her simple confession of the only 'sin' -she could remember—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Had I on a Sunday not laced my sleeves,</div> - <div class="indent9">Or border upon them sewn,</div> - <div class="verse">No pangs had I felt by day or night,</div> - <div class="indent9">Or torture of hell-fire known.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>Tradition tells us that the dismal town of Ringsted -was founded by King Ring, a warrior who, when he -was seriously wounded in battle, placed the bodies of -his slain heroes and that of his queen, Alpol, on board -a ship laden with pitch, and going out to the open -sea, set the vessel on fire, and then fell upon his -sword.</p> - -<p>In the twilight we pass Roeskilde, and at 10-1/2 <small>P.M.</small> -long rows of street lamps reflected in canals show -that we have reached Copenhagen.</p> - -<p>To those whose travels have chiefly led them -southwards there is a great pleasure in the first -awaking in Copenhagen. Everything is new—the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>associations, the characteristics, the history; even the -very names on the omnibuses are suggestive of the -sagas and romances of the North; and though the -summer sun is hot, the atmosphere is as clear as that -of a tramontana day in an Italian winter, and the air -is indescribably elastic. The comfortable Hôtel -d'Angleterre stands in the Kongens Nytorv, a modern -square, with trees surrounding a statue in the centre, -but there are glimpses of picturesque shipping down -the side streets, and hard by is a spire quite ideally -Danish, formed by three marvellous dragons with -their tails twisted together in the air. Tradition -declares that it was moved bodily from Calmar, in -the south of Sweden. It rises now from a beautiful -building of brick erected in 1624 by Christian <abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>., -brother-in-law of James <abbr title="the first">I</abbr>. of England, and used as -the Exchange.</p> - -<p>Not far off is the principal palace—Christiansborg -Slot, often rebuilt, and very white and ugly. It -was partially destroyed by fire in 1884. Besides -the royal residence, its vast courts contain the -Chambers of Parliament, the Royal Library, and a -Picture Gallery chiefly filled with the works of native -artists, amongst which those of Marstrand and Bloch -are very striking and well worthy of attention.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_069.jpg" id="i_069" alt="" width="420" height="527" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> THE DRAGON TOWER, COPENHAGEN.</p> -</div> - -<p>A queer building in the shadow of the palace, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>which attracts notice by its frescoed walls, is the -Thorwaldsen Museum, the shrine where Denmark has -reverentially collected all the works and memorials of -her greatest artist—Bertel Thorwaldsen. Though -his family is said to have descended from the Danish -king Harold Stildetand, he was born (in 1770) the son -of one Gottschalk, who, half workman, half artist, was -employed in carving figures for the bows of vessels. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>From his earliest childhood little Bertel accompanied -his father to the wharfs and assisted him in his work, -in which he showed such intelligence that in his -eleventh year he was allowed to enter the Free School -of Art. Here he soon made wonderful progress in -sculpture, but could so little be persuaded to attend -to other studies that he reached the age of eighteen -scarcely able to read. In his twenty-third year he -obtained the great gold medal, to which a travelling -stipend is attached, and thus he was enabled to go to -Rome, where, encouraged at first by the patronage of -Thomas Hope, the English banker, he soon reached -the highest pitch of celebrity. Denmark became -proud of her son, so that his visits to his native town -in 1819 and 1837 were like triumphal progresses, all -the city going forth to meet him, and lodging him -splendidly at the public cost; but his heart always -clung to the Eternal City, which continued to be -the scene of his labours. Of his many works perhaps -his noble lion at Lucerne is the best known. He -never married, though he was long attached to a -member of the old Scottish house of Mackenzie, and -he died on a visit to Copenhagen in 1844.</p> - -<p>In accordance with Thorwaldsen's own wish, he -rests in the centre of his works. His grave has no -tombstone, but is covered with green ivy. All around -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>the little court which contains it are halls and galleries -filled with the marvellously varied productions of his -genius, arranged in the order of their execution—casts -of all his absent sculptures and many most grand -originals. Especially beautiful are the statue of -Mercury, modelled from a Roman boy, of which the -original is in the possession of Lord Ashburton, and -the exquisite reliefs of the Ages of Love, and of Day -and Night, the two latter resulting from the inspiration -of a single afternoon. But all seem to culminate in -the great Hall of Christ, for though the statues here -are only cast from those in the Vor Frue Kirche, they -are far better seen in the well-lighted chamber than -in the church. The colossal figures of the apostles -lead up to the Saviour in sublime benediction; perhaps -the statues of Simon Zelotes and the pilgrim S. James -are the noblest amongst them. In the last room are -gathered all the little personal memorials of Thorwaldsen—his -books, pictures, and furniture.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_072.jpg" id="i_072" alt="" width="355" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> THE ROSENBORG PALACE, COPENHAGEN.</p> -</div> - -<p>The Museum of Northern Antiquities should also -be visited and the Tower of the Trinity Church, with -a roadway inside making an easy ascent to the strange -view of many roofs and many waters which is obtained -from the top. But the most delightful place in Copenhagen -is the Palace of Rosenborg, standing at the end -of a stately old garden—where it was built by Inigo -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>Jones for Christian <abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>., and containing the room where -the king died, with his wedding dress, and most of his -other clothes and possessions. This palace-building -monarch, celebrated for the drinking bouts in which -he indulged with his brother-in-law, James <abbr title="the first">I</abbr>. of -England, was the greatest dandy of his time, and -before we leave Denmark we shall become very -familiar with his portraits, always distinguished by -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>the wonderful left whisker twisted into a pigtail falling -on one side of the chin. Other rooms in Rosenborg -are devoted to each of the succeeding sovereigns, and -filled with relics and memorials which carry one back -into most romantic corners of Danish history, the -ever-alternate succession of Christians and Fredericks -making a most terrible bewilderment, down to the -two English queens, Louisa the beloved and Caroline -Matilda the unfortunate. Most curious amongst a -myriad objects of value are the three great silver -Lions—'Great Belt, Little Belt, and Sound'—which, -by ancient custom, appear as mourners at all the -funerals of the sovereigns, accompanying them to -Roeskilde and returning afterwards to the palace.</p> - -<p>Those interested in such matters will wander as -we did through the more ancient parts of Copenhagen -in search of old silver and specimens of the older -Copenhagen china. Formerly the china imitated that -of Miessen, but it has now a more distinctive character, -and is chiefly used in reproducing the works of Thorwaldsen. -Copenhagen has no other especial manufactures.</p> - -<p>No visitors to the Danish capital must omit a visit -to Tivoli, the pretty odd pleasure grounds—very respectable -too—near the railway station, where all -kinds of evening amusements are provided in illuminated<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> -gardens and woods by a tiny lake, really -very pretty. Here we watched the cars rushing like -a whirlwind down one hill and up another, with their -inmates screaming in pleasurable agony; and saw the -extraordinary feats of 'the Cannon King,' who tossed -a cannon ball, catching it on his hands, his head, his -feet—anywhere, and then stood in front of a cannon -and was shot, receiving in his hands the ball, which -did nothing worse than twist him round by its force.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_075.jpg" id="i_075" alt="" width="520" height="328" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> ROESKILDE.</p> -</div> - -<p>One day we went out—an hour and a half by rail—to -Roeskilde, where a church was first founded by -William, an Englishman, in the days of King Harold -Blaatand (Blue-tooth), brother of Canute the Great. -It is dedicated to S. Lucius, because tradition tells -that a terrible dragon, who infested the neighbouring -fiord and banqueted on the inhabitants, was destroyed -for ever when the head of the holy Pope S. Lucius -was brought from Rome and presented for his breakfast. -The tall spires of the cathedral rise, slender and -grey, from the little town, and beneath, embosomed in -sweeping cornfields, a lovely fiord stretches away into -pale blue distances. Endless kings and queens are -buried at Roeskilde. The earlier sovereigns have -glorious tombs, amongst which the most conspicuous -is that of Queen Margaret—'the Semiramis of the -North,' who, born in the prison of Syborg, where her -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>unhappy mother Queen Helwig was imprisoned by -Waldemar Atterhag, and allowed to run wild in the -forest in her childhood, lived to become one of the -wisest of Northern sovereigns, and to unite, by the Act -known as 'the Union of Calmar,' the crowns of Denmark, -Sweden, and Norway, which attained unwonted -prosperity under her sway. There are effigies of -Frederic <abbr title="the second">II</abbr>. and Christian <abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>., the grandfather and -uncle of our Charles <abbr title="the first">I</abbr>., which recall his type of countenance -and have the same peaked beard. Christian -<abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>., the great palace-builder, whose birth was believed -to have been prophesied by the mermaid Isbrand, -was born (April 12, 1577) under a hawthorn tree on -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>the road between Frederiksborg and Roeskilde, as -his mother, Sophia of Mecklenbourg, insisted on taking -walks with her ladies in waiting far longer than -was prudent. This king, his father, and all the later -members of his royal house lie, not in their tombs, -but in gorgeous coffins embossed with gold and silver -upon the floor of the church, which has a very odd -effect. The entrance of one of the private chapels is -a gate with a huge figure, in wrought ironwork, of the -devil with his tail in his hand. In another chapel are -fine works of Marstrand (1810-75), the best of the -pupils of Eckersberg, who gave the first stimulus to -the art of painting in Denmark, where it has since -attained to great eminence.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_077.jpg" id="i_077" alt="" width="530" height="322" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> THE CASTLE OF FREDERIKSBORG.</p> -</div> - -<p>The district around Roeskilde, and indeed the -greater part of Denmark, is devoted to corn, for there -is no country in Europe, except England and Belgium, -which can compete with this as a corn-grower. -It is curious that though the neighbouring Sweden -and Norway are so covered with pines, no conifer will -grow in Denmark except under most careful cultivation. -The principal native tree is the beech, and the -beech woods are nowhere more beautiful than in -the neighbourhood of Copenhagen. The railway to -Elsinore passes through the beautiful beech forests -which are familiar to us through the stories of Hans -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>Christian Andersen. Here, near a little roadside -station, rises the Hampton Court of Denmark, the -great Castle of Frederiksborg, the most magnificent -of the creations of Christian <abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>., which John of -Friburg erected for that monarch, who looked personally -into the minutest details of his expenses, and -so raised this structure, glorious as it is, with an -economy which greatly astonished his thrifty parliament. -In the depths of the beech woods is a great -lake, in the centre of which, on three islands united -by bridges, rises the palace, most beautiful in its time-honoured -hues of red brick and grey stone, with high -roofs, richly sculptured windows, and wondrous -towers and spires. Each view of the castle seems -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>more picturesque than the last. It is a dream of -architectural beauty, to which the great expanse of -transparent waters and the deep verdure of the surrounding -woods add a mysterious charm. A gigantic -gate tower admits the visitor to the courtyard, where -Christian <abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>., with his own hand, chopped off the -head of the Master of the Mint, which he had established -here, who had defrauded him. 'He tried to -cheat us, but we have cheated him, for we have -chopped his head off,' said the King. Inside, the -palace has been gorgeously restored since a great -fire by which it was terribly injured in 1859. The -chapel, with the pew of Christian <abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>.—'bedekammer,' -prayer chamber, it is called—is most curious. There -is a noble series of the pictures of the native artist -Carl Bloch, recalling the works of Overbeck in their -majesty and depth of feeling, but far more forcible.</p> - -<p>A drive of four miles through beech woods leads -to the comfortable later palace of Fredensborg, built -as 'a Castle of Peace' by Frederick <abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>. and Louisa -of Mecklenbourg, with a lovely garden, and a view of -the Esrom lake down green glades, in one of which is -a mysterious assembly of stone statues in Norwegian -costumes.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_079.jpg" id="i_079" alt="" width="560" height="330" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> CASTLE OF ELSINORE.</p> -</div> - -<p>We may either take the railway or drive by Gurre -from hence to Elsinore (Helsingor), where the great -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>castle of Kronberg rises, with many towers built of -grey stone, at the end of the little town on a low -promontory jutting out into the sea. Stately avenues -surround its bastions, and it is delightful to walk upon -the platform where the first scene of Shakspere's -'Hamlet' is laid, and to watch the numberless ships in -the narrow Sound which divides Denmark and -Sweden. The castle is in perfect preservation. It -was formerly used as a palace. Anne of Denmark -was married here by proxy to James <abbr title="the sixth">VI</abbr>. of Scotland, -and here poor Caroline Matilda sate daily for hours at -her prison window watching vainly for the fleet of -England which she believed was coming to her -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>rescue. Beyond the castle, a sandy plain reminding -us of Scottish links, covered with bent-grass and -drifted by seaweed, extends to Marienlyst, a little -fashionable bathing place embosomed in verdure. -Here a Carmelite convent was founded by the wife -of Eric <abbr title="the ninth">IX</abbr>., that Queen Philippa—daughter of Henry -<abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>. of England—who successfully defended Copenhagen -against the Hanseatic League, but was afterwards -beaten by her husband, because her ships were -defeated at Stralsund, an indignity which drove her -to a monastic life. Hamlet's Grave and Ophelia's -Brook are shown at Marienlyst, having been invented -for anxious inquirers by the complaisant inhabitants. -Alas! both were unknown to Andersen, who lived here -in his childhood, and it is provoking to learn that -Hamlet had really no especial connection with -Elsinore, and was the son of a Jutland pirate in the -insignificant island of Mors. But Denmark is the -very home of picturesque stories, which are kept alive -there by the ballad literature of the land, chiefly of -the fourteenth or fifteenth centuries, but still known -to rich and poor alike as in no other country. For -hundreds of years these poetical histories have been -the tunes to which, in winter, when no other exercise -can be taken, people dance for hours, holding each -other's hands in two lines, making three steps forwards -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>and backwards, keeping time, balancing, or remaining -still for a moment, as they sing one of their old ballads -or its refrain.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_081.jpg" id="i_081" alt="" width="301" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> TOWER OF HELSINGBORG CHURCH.</p> -</div> - -<p>It was in a wild evening, with huge blue foam-crested -waves rushing down the Sound, that we -crossed in ten minutes to Helsingborg in Sweden, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>mounted for the sunset to the one huge remaining -tower of its castle, and sketched as typical of almost -all village towers in Denmark the belfry of the church -where King Eric Menred was married to the Swedish -princess Ingeborga.</p> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="IN_SWEDEN" id="IN_SWEDEN"></a><i>IN SWEDEN.</i></h2> - - -<p class="drop-cap">IT is not beautiful in Sweden, but it is very pretty; -if everything were not so very much alike, it -would be very pretty indeed. The whole country as -far north as Upsala is like an exaggerated Surrey—little -hills covered with fir-woods and bilberries, -brilliant, glistening little lakes sleeping in sandy -hollows, but all just like one another.</p> - -<p>We turned aside in our way from Helsingborg to -the north to visit the old university of Lund, the -Oxford of Sweden, a sleepy city, where the students -lead a separate life in lodgings of their own, only -being united in the public lectures; for in Sweden, as -in Italy, the taking of a degree only proves that the -graduates have passed a certain number of examinations, -not, as in England, that they have lived -together for three years at least, forming their character -and taste by mutual companionship and -intimacy. The cathedral of Lund is a most noble -Norman building, with giants and dwarfs sculptured -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>against the pillars of its grand crypt, and a glorious -archbishop's tomb, green and mossy with damp.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_086.jpg" id="i_086" alt="" width="450" height="265" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> THE JUNCTION OF LAKE MALAR AND THE BALTIC, STOCKHOLM.</p> -</div> - -<p>An immense railway journey, by day and night -through the endless forests, brought us to Stockholm, -where we arrived in the early morning. Though the -town is little beyond an ugly collection of featureless -modern streets, the situation is quite exquisite, for the -city occupies a succession of islets between Lake -Malar and the Baltic, surrounding, on a central isle, -the huge Palace built from stately designs of Count -Tessin in the middle of the last century, and the old -church of Riddarholmen, where Gustavus Adolphus -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>and many other royal persons repose beneath the -banner-hung arches.</p> - -<p>It sounds odd, but, next to the Palace, the most -imposing building in Stockholm is certainly the Grand -Hotel Rydberg, which is most comfortable and -economical, in spite of its palatial aspect. There is -no table d'hôte, and everything is paid for at the time, -in the excellent restaurant on the first floor of the -hotel. Here, a side table is always covered with -dainties peculiarly Swedish, corn and birch brandy, -and different kinds of potted fish, with fresh butter -and olives, and it is the universal custom in Sweden -to attack the side table before sitting down to the -regular dinner. The rooms in the hotel are excellent, -and their front windows overlook all that is most -characteristic in Stockholm—the glorious view down -the fiord of the Baltic: its farther hilly bank covered -with houses and churches; the bridge at the junction -of the Baltic and Lake Malar, which is the centre of -life in the capital, and the little pleasure garden below, -where hundreds of people are constantly eating -and drinking under the trees, and whence strains of -music are wafted late into the summer night; the -mighty palace dominating the principal island, and -the little steam gondolas, filled with people, which -dart and hiss through the waters from one island to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>another. In Stockholm, where waters are many and -bridges few, these steam gondolas are the chief means -of communication, and we made great use of them, -the passages costing twelve oëre, or one penny. The -great white sea-gulls, poising over the water-streets or -floating upon the waves, are also a striking feature.</p> - -<p>The museums of Stockholm have little to call for -any especial notice, except a grand statue of the -sleeping Endymion from the Villa Adriana, and the -curious collection of royal clothes down to the present -date, a gallery of costume like that which once -existed in London at the Tower Royal. The chief -curiosity which the Swedish collection contains is the -hat worn by Charles <abbr title="the twelvth">XII</abbr>. when he was killed, in -which the upward progress of the bullet can be traced, -proving that the king's death was caused by an -assassin, and not the result of a chance shot from the -walls of Frederikshald. No especial features mark -the interior of the Palace, though the Royal Stable -for a hundred and forty-six horses is worthy of a visit; -and the churches are uninteresting, except perhaps -S. Nicholas, the coronation church, which contains -the helmet and spurs of S. Olaf, stolen from -Throndtjem. Riddarholmen can scarcely be regarded -as a church; it is rather a great sepulchral hall hung -with trophies, having a few tombs on the floor of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>building, and vaults opening under the side walls, in -which the different groups of royal persons are buried -together in families. Under a chapel on the left lies -Gustavus Adolphus, the justly popular great-grandson -of Gustavus Wasa, who fell at the battle of Lutzen, -and who, as soldier, general, and king, ever knew true -merit, and laboured for the glory of his country -rather than for his own. In the opposite chapel -repose the present royal family, descendants of -Bernadotte, Prince of Pontecorvo, the only one of -Napoleon's generals whose dynasty still occupies a -throne. He began life as a common soldier, and his -election as Charles <abbr title="the fourteenth">XIV</abbr>. of Sweden was chiefly due -to the kindness with which he treated Swedish -prisoners taken in the Pomeranian wars. But the -Swedes have never had cause to repent of their choice, -and their reigning house is probably the most popular -in Europe. The coffins of those members of the -royal family who have died within the memory of -man are ever laden with fresh flowers.</p> - -<p>Close by the Riddarholmen Church is the most -picturesque bit of street architecture in Stockholm, -where a statue of Burger Jarl, the traditional founder -of the town, forms a foreground to the chapel of -Gustavus Adolphus and one of the many bridges.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_090.jpg" id="i_090" alt="" width="450" height="346" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> RIDDARHOLMEN, STOCKHOLM.</p> -</div> - -<p>In saying that Stockholm is not picturesque one -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>may seem to have spoken disparagingly, but, nevertheless, -it is perfectly charming: there is so much life -and movement upon its blue waters, and its many -little public gardens give such a gay aspect to the -buildings. Of these, the chief is the Kongsträgården, -surrounding a statue of Charles <abbr title="the thirteenth">XIII</abbr>., where the -pleasant Café Blanche is filled all the evening with -an animated crowd, gossiping and eating ices under -the verandah and shrubberies, and listening to the -music. While we were staying in Stockholm a -hundred Upsala students came in their white caps to -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>sing national melodies in the Catherina Church. We -lived through two hours of fearful heat to hear them, -and most beautiful it was. King Oscar <abbr title="the second">II</abbr>. was present—a -noble royal figure and handsome face. He is the -ideal sovereign of the age—artist, poet, musician, -student, equally at home in ancient and modern -languages, profoundly versed in all his duties, and -nobly performing them.</p> - -<p>We had intended going often, as the natives do, to -dine amongst the trees and flowers at Hasselbacken, -in the Djurgården, a wooded promontory, to which -little steamers are always plying, but, alas! during -eight of the ten July days we spent at Stockholm it -rained incessantly. We were so cold that we were -thankful for all the winter clothes we brought with us, -and were filled with pity for the poor Swedes in being -cheated out of their short summer, of which every -day is precious. The streets were always sopping, -but, in the covered gondolas, we managed several excursions -to quiet, damp palaces on the banks of lonely -fiords—Rosendal, remarkable for a grand porphyry -vase in a brilliant little flower garden; and Ulriksdal, -with its clipped avenues and melancholy creek.</p> - -<p>Our limited knowledge of Swedish often caused -us to embark in amusing ignorance as to whither we -were going, and led us into many a surprise. One -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>day we set off, intending to go to Drottningholm, but, -on reaching the quay, found the steamer just gone. -At that moment such a fearful storm of rain came on -that we were obliged to rush for shelter wherever we -could, and the nearest point of refuge was the deck -of the steamer <em>Mary</em>, which instantly started. We -feared we might be bound for the Baltic, and, failing -to make any one understand us, resolved to disembark -at the first landing-place. But then the rain was -worse than ever, and we allowed ourselves to be -carried on down Lake Malar, till our boat turned into -a little creek, and landed us on the pier of a manufacturing -town. We had not reached the end of the -pier, however, before the rain came on again in such -convulsive torrents that we fled back to the <em>Mary</em>, -which again started on its travels, and this time, after -stopping at many little ports, conveyed us back to -Stockholm. When we asked the captain what we -were to pay for our voyage, he said, 'Oh, nothing;' -and very much amused he and his crew seemed to be -by our ignorance and adventures.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_095.jpg" id="i_095" alt="" width="450" height="254" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> THE GRAVES OF THE GODS.</p> -</div> - -<p>We had a fine day for our excursion by railway to -Upsala, whence we hired a little carriage to take us on -to Old Upsala, about three miles distant. A drive -across a dull, marshy plain brings one to a delightfully -wild district of downs, covered with hundreds of little -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>sepulchral mounds like Wiltshire barrows, amid which -three great tumuli, standing close together, are said to -mark the graves of Odin, Thor, and Freya—heroes in -their lifetime, gods in their death. Close beside them -for centuries rose the temple which was the most -sacred shrine of Scandinavian worship. It glittered -all over with gold, and a golden chain, nine hundred -ells in circumference, ran round its roof. In the -temple were three statues, around which hovered all -the principal mythological traditions of the north. -The central figure was that of Odin or Wodan, the -wizard-king, who is said to have come in the dawn of -Swedish history from his domains of Asir, which extended -from the Euxine to the Caspian, and whose -capital was Asgard. He landed in Funen, where he -founded Odense, and left his son Skjöld as a sovereign. -Thence he passed into Sweden, and established his -government at Sigtuna, not far from Upsala. His -existence is affirmed by the Saxon Chronicle. He -was called 'the Father of Victory,' for if he laid his -hands on the heads of his generals, and predicted -their success when they went out to battle, that -success never failed them. He was also, says Snorro -Sturlesen, 'the Father of all the arts of modern -Europe.' Tradition has endowed him with every -miraculous power. He could change his looks at -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>pleasure—to his friends most beautiful, but a demon -to his enemies. By his eloquence he captivated all -who heard him, and as he always spoke in verse he -was called 'the Artificer of Song.' His verses were -endowed with such magic power that they could strike -his enemies with blindness or deafness, or could blunt -their weapons. To listen to the sweetness of his -music even the ghosts would come forth and the -mountains would unfold their inmost recesses. He -was the inventor of Runic characters. He could -slaughter thousands at a blow, and he could render -his own followers invulnerable. At his will he could -assume the form of beasts; at his word the fire would -cease to burn, the wind to blow, or the sea to rage. -If he hurled his spear between two armies, it secured -victory to those on whose side it fell. The dwarfs -(Lapps) had built for him a ship called <em>Skidbladner</em>, -in which he could cross the most dangerous seas -with safety; but when he did not want to use it, he -could fold it up like a handkerchief. Everything was -known to Odin, for did he not possess the mummified -head of his enemy Mimir, which was all-wise, and -he had only to consult it? Yet, with all these gifts -and attributes, Odin remained human; he had no -power over death. When he felt his end approaching -he assembled all his friends and followers, and, giving -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>himself nine wounds in a circle, allowed himself to -bleed to death. The body of the great chieftain was -burnt, and his ashes were buried under the mound of -Upsala; but his spirit was believed to have gone back -to the marvellous home in the Valhalla of Asgard, of -which he had so often spoken, and whither he had -always said that he should return. Henceforward it -was considered that all blessings and mercies were -gifts sent by Odin. The younger Edda tells that all -who die in battle are Odin's adopted children. The -Valkyriae pick them out upon the battle-field and -conduct them to the Valhalla, where they have perpetual -life in the halls of Odin. Their days are spent -in hunting or the joys of imaginary combats, and they -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>return at night to feast upon the inexhaustible flesh of -the boar Sahrimnir, and to drink, out of horn cups, the -mead formed from the milk of a single goat, which is -strong enough nightly to intoxicate all the heroes. -Huge logs constantly burn within the palace of Odin, -for warmth is the northern idea of heaven, while in -their hell it is eternal winter. When a Scandinavian -chieftain died in battle, not only were his war-horse -and all his gold and silver placed upon his funeral-pyre, -but all his followers slew themselves that he -might enter the halls of Odin properly attended. -The more glorious the chieftain the greater the number -who must accompany him to Valhalla. To rejoin -Odin in Asgard became the height of a warrior's -ambition. It is recorded of Ragnar Lodbrok that -when he was dying no word of lamentation was -heard from him: on the contrary, he was transported -with joy as he thought of the feast preparing for him -in Odin's palace. 'Soon, soon,' he exclaimed, 'I -shall be seated in the pleasant habitation of the gods, -and drinking mead out of carved horns! A brave -man does not dread death, and I shall utter no word -of fear as I enter the halls of Odin.' But stranger -than all the legends concerning Odin is the fact that -his memory is still so far fresh that 'Go to Odin' -is yet used by the common people where an uncivil -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>wish as to the lower regions would find expression -in England. The fourth day of the week still commemorates -Odin or Wodan—in old Norse Odinsdgr, -in Swedish and Danish Onsdag, in English Wednesday.</p> - -<p>On the right hand of Odin, in the temple of Upsala, -sate the statue of Freyja, or Freyer, represented -as a hermaphrodite, with the attributes of productiveness. -Freyja was the goddess of love, who rode in -a car drawn by wild cats. She knew beforehand all -that would happen, and divided the souls of the dead -with Odin. She is commemorated in the sixth day -of the week, that Freytag or Freyja's Day which in -Latin is Dies Veneris, or Venus' Day.</p> - -<p>On the left of Odin sate Thor, who, says the Edda, -was 'the most valiant of the sons of Odin.' He was -the offspring of Odin and Frigga, 'the mother of the -gods,' and the brother of 'Balder the Beautiful.' As -the defender and avenger of the gods, he was represented -as carrying the hammer with which he destroyed -the giants, and which always returned to his -hand when he threw it. He wore iron gauntlets, and -had a girdle which doubled his strength when he put -it on. The fifth day of the week was sacred to Thor, -in old Norse Thórsdag, in Swedish and Danish Torsdag, -in English Thursday; in Latin Dies Jovis, for -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>Jupiter, the God of Thunder, had the same attributes -as Thor.</p> - -<p>There were three great festivals at Upsala, when -multitudes flocked to the temple to consult its famous -oracles or to sacrifice. The first was the winter festival -of 'Mother Night'—saturnalia in honour of Frey, or -the sun, to invoke the blessings of a fruitful year; the -second feast was in honour of the Earth; the third -was in honour of Odin, to propitiate the Father of -Battles. Every ninth year, at least, the king and all -persons of distinction were expected to appear before -the great temple, and nine victims were chosen for -human sacrifice—captives in time of war, slaves in -time of peace—'I send thee to Odin' being the consolatory -last words spoken to each as he fell. If public -calamities had been caused by any royal mismanagement, -the people chose their king as a sacrifice; thus -the first king of the petty province of Vermeland was -burnt to appease Odin during a famine. It is also -recorded that King Aun sacrificed his nine sons to -obtain a prolongation of his own life. The victims -were either hewn down or burnt in the temple itself, -or hung in the grove adjoining—'Odin's Grove'—of -which every leaf was sacred. Still, according to the -Voluspa, the famous prophecy of Vela, at the end of -the world even Odin, with all the other pagan deities, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>will perish in the general chaos, when a new earth of -celestial beauty will arise upon the ruins of the -old.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_099.jpg" id="i_099" alt="" width="450" height="330" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> THE CHURCH OF OLD UPSALA.</p> -</div> - -<p>One of the most curious little churches in Christendom -now stands upon the site of the ancient temple. -The apse is evidently built out of the pagan -sanctuary. The belfry, Swedish-fashion, is detached, -built of massive timbers and painted bright red. -There are scarcely any human habitations near, only -the mighty barrows, overgrown with wild thyme and -a thousand other flowers, which rise over the graves of -the gods. In the tomb of Odin the Government still -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>gives the mead, which was the nectar of Scandinavian -heroes, to pilgrim visitors.</p> - -<p>Like most of the Swedish towns, Upsala is disappointing, -and its mean, ill-paved streets show few signs -of antiquity. At the east end of the cathedral is the -lofty tomb of Gustavus Wasa, the first Protestant -King of Sweden, whose effigy lies between the charming -figures of his two pretty little wives. In 1519 he -was carried off as a hostage by that Christian, King -of Denmark, who forcibly made himself King of -Sweden also, and ruled with savage tyranny. Escaping -to Lübeck, he headed a revolutionary party -against the tyrant, and, after many defeats, succeeded -in taking Stockholm, where he was made king in 1523. -Soon after, Olaf Petri's translation of the New Testament -led to the Reformation in Sweden, where Gustavus -Wasa was another Henry <abbr title="the eighth">VIII</abbr>., in taking the -opportunity of seizing two-thirds of the Church -revenues, and depriving all ecclesiastics of their incomes -if they refused to embrace Lutheranism. One -of his daughters-in-law was the famous Polish princess, -Queen Catherine Jagellonica, who tried hard to upset -the new religion, and inculcated Catholicism upon her -son, King Sigismund, who was deposed, on religious -grounds, in favour of his uncle, Charles <abbr title="the ninth">IX</abbr>., the father -of Gustavus Adolphus. This Queen Catherine Jagel<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>lonica -has a fine tomb in a side chapel of Upsala -Cathedral.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_101.jpg" id="i_101" alt="" width="450" height="347" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> GRIPSHOLM.</p> -</div> - -<p>On a brilliant July morning we embarked at Stockholm -in the steamer which runs twice a week down -Lake Malar to Gripsholm. Most lovely were the long -reaches of still water with their fringe of russet rocks, -every crevice tufted with birch and dwarf mountain -ash, opening here and there to show some red timber -houses or a wooden spire. It was several hours of -soft diorama, with the music of the pines, before the -great castle of Gripsholm, the Windsor of Sweden, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>came in sight, with its many red towers and Eastern-looking -domes and cupolas. We were landed at the -little pier of Mariefred, in itself a lovely scene, with -old trees feathering into the water, and a picturesque -church rising in a grove of walnuts on a green hill -behind. Hard by is a little inn where the whole of -the passengers in the steamer dined together, at many -little tables, the great staple of food being fresh trout -and salmon of the lake, the bilberries and cloudberries -of the rocks, and the birch brandy and wild strawberries -from the woods. After dinner every one -trooped along the meadow paths to the castle, and -rambled in friendly companionship over its numerous -rooms, full of interest, and with many curious royal -portraits and pieces of ancient furniture. There are -endless historic recollections connected with Gripsholm, -but they centre for the most part around the -sons of Gustavus Wasa. Of these, John was immured -here by Eric <abbr title="the fourteenth">XIV</abbr>., with his wife Catherine -Jagellonica, who, during her imprisonment, gave -birth to her son Sigismund (afterwards Sigismund -<abbr title="the third">III</abbr>. of Poland), in a box-bed which still remains. -Eric intended to have put his brother to death, but -when he entered his cell for the purpose was so -overcome by fraternal feeling that he begged his -pardon instead. That pardon was not granted, for -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>when John got the upper hand he imprisoned Eric -in a small chamber at the top of the castle, where -he languished for ten years, during which he wrote -a treatise on military art, and translated the history -of Johannes Magnus, and where—in the end—he -was poisoned.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> - -<h2><a name="IN_NORWAY" id="IN_NORWAY"></a><i>IN NORWAY.</i></h2> - - -<p class="drop-cap">THE weather changed to a cloudless sunshine, -which hatched all the mosquitoes, as we entered -Norway in the second week in July, and the heat was -so intense that, in the long railway journey from -Stockholm, we were very thankful for the little tank -of iced water with which each railway carriage is -provided. We were disappointed in Kristiania, which -is a very dull place. The town was built by Christian -<abbr title="the fourth">IV</abbr>. of Denmark, and has a good central church of -his time, but it is utterly unpicturesque. In the -picture gallery are several noble works of Tidemann, -the special painter of expression and pathos. As a -companion for life is the memory of a picture which -represents the administration of the last sacrament -to an old peasant, whose wife's grief is turned to resignation, -which ceases even to have a wish for his -retention, as she beholds the heaven-born comfort -with which he is looking into an unknown future. -Another of the finest works of the artist represents -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>the reception of the sacrament by a convict, young -and deeply repentant, before his execution.</p> - -<p>There is no striking scenery in the environs of -Kristiania, but they are wonderfully pretty. From the -avenues upon the ramparts you look down over the -broad expanse of the fyord, with low blue mountain -distances. Little steamers dart backwards and forwards, -and convey visitors in a few minutes across -the bay to Oscars Halle, a tower and small country -villa of the king on a wooded knoll.</p> - -<p>We went by the railway which winds high amongst -the hills to Kongsberg, a mining village in a lofty -situation. Here, in a garden of white roses, there -is a most comfortable small hotel kept by a Dane, -which is a capital starting-point for all expeditions -in Telemarken. There is a pretty waterfall near the -village, and the church should be visited, for the sake -of its curious pulpit hour-glass—indeed, four glasses—quarter, -half-hour, three-quarters, hour—and the top of -a stool let into the wall with an inscription saying -that Mr. Jacobus Stuart, King of Scotland (James <abbr title="the first">I</abbr>. -of England), sate upon it, Nov. 25, 1589, to hear a -sermon preached by Mr. David Lentz, 'between 11 -and 12,' on 'The Lord is my Shepherd.'</p> - -<p>We engaged a carriage at Kongsberg for the -excursion to Tinoset, whence we arranged to go on -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>to the Ryukan Foss, said to be the highest waterfall -in Europe. We do not advise future travellers without -unlimited time to follow us in the latter part of -the expedition by the lake, but the carriage excursion -is quite enchanting. What an exquisite drive it is -through the forest—the deep ever-varying woods of -noble pines and firs springing from luxuriant thickets -of junipers, bilberries, and cranberries! The loveliest -mountain flowers grow in these woods—huge larkspurs -of rank luxuriant foliage and flowers of faint -dead blue; pinks and blue lungworts and orchids; -stagmoss wreathing itself round the grey rocks, and -delicate, lovely soldanella drooping in the still recesses.</p> - -<p>Our midday halt was at Bolkesjö, where the forest -opens to green lawns, hill-set, with a charming view -down the smooth declivities to a many-bayed lake, -with mountain distances. Here, amid a group of old -brown farm-buildings covered with rude paintings and -sculpture, is a farmhouse, inhabited by the same -family through many generations. It is one of the -'stations' where it is part of the duty of the farmer or -'bonder' who is owner of the soil to find horses for -the use of travellers. These horses are supplied at a -very trifling charge, and are brought back by a boy -who sits behind the carriole or carriage upon the portmanteau: -but as the horses, when not called for, are -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>turned loose or used by the bonder in his own farm -or field work, travellers generally have to wait a long -time while they are caught or sent for. They order -their horses '<em>strax</em>'—directly—one of the first words -an Englishman learns to use on entering Norway, yet -they scarcely ever appear before half an hour, so that -Norwegians repeat with amusement the story of an -Englishman who, when he wished to spend an hour -at a station, ordered his horses 'after two strax's.' -These halts are not always congenial to English -impatience, yet they give opportunities of becoming -acquainted with Norwegian life and people which can -be obtained in no other way, and recollection will -oftener go back to the quiet time spent in waiting -for horses amid the grey rocks above some foaming -streamlet, in the green oases surrounded by forest, or -in clean-boarded rooms strewn with fresh fir foliage, -than to the more established sights of Norway. Most -delicious indeed were the two hours which we passed -at Bolkesjö, in the high pastures where the peasants -were mowing the tall grass ablaze with flowers, and -the mountains were throwing long purple shadows -over the forest, and the wind blowing freshly from the -gleaming lake—and then, most delicious was the -well-earned meal of eggs and bacon, strawberries and -cream, and other homely dainties in the farmhouse -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>where the beams and furniture were all painted and -carved with mottoes and texts, and the primitive box-beds -had crimson satin quilts. Portraits sent by well-pleased -royal visitors hung on the walls side by side -with common-coloured scripture prints, like those -which are found in English cottages. The cellar is -under a bed, beneath which it was funny to see the -old farmeress disappear as she went down to fetch up -for us her home-brewed ale.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_111.jpg" id="i_111" alt="" width="480" height="281" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> BOLKESJÖ.</p> -</div> - -<p>With the cordial 'likkelie reise' of our old hostess -in our ears, we left Bolkesjö full of pleasant thoughts. -But what roads, or rather what want of roads, lead to -Tinoset!—there were banks of glassy rock, up which -our horses scrambled like cats; there were awful -moments when everything seemed to come to an end, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>and when they gathered up their legs, and seemed to -fling themselves down headlong with the carriage on -the top of them, and yet we reached the bottom of -the abyss buried in dust, to rise gasping and gulping -and wondering we were alive, to begin the same -pantomime over again.</p> - -<p>Late in the evening, long after the sunlight had -faded, and when the forests seemed to have gone to -sleep and all sounds were silent, we reached Tinoset. -The inn is a wooden châlet on the banks of a lake -with a single great pine-tree close to the door. It was -terribly crowded, and the little wooden cells were the -smallest apology for bedrooms, where all through the -night we heard the winds howling among the mountains, -and the waves lashing the shore under the -windows. In the morning the lake was covered with -huge blue waves crested with foam, and we were -almost sorry when the steamer came and we felt -obliged to embark, because, as it was not the regular -day for its passage, we had summoned it at some -expense from the other end of the lake. We were -thoroughly wet with the spray before we reached the -little inn at Strand, with a pier where we disembarked, -and occupied the rest of the afternoon in drawing the -purple hills, and the road winding towards them -through the old birch-trees. An excursion to the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span>Ryukan Foss occupied the next day; a dull drive -through the plain, and then an exciting skirting of -horrible precipices, followed by a clamber up a -mountain pathlet to a châlet, where we were thankful -for our well-earned dinner of trout and ale before -proceeding to the Foss, the 560-feet-high fall of a -mountain torrent into a black rift in the hills—a -boiling, roaring abyss of water, with drifts of spray -which are visible for miles before it can be seen -itself.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_113.jpg" id="i_113" alt="" width="450" height="332" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> OLD CHURCH OF HITTERDAL.</p> -</div> - -<p>In returning from Tinoset, we took the way by -Hitterdal, the date-forgotten old wooden church so -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span>familiar from picture-books. It had been our principal -object in coming to Norway, yet the long drive had -made us so ravenous in search of food that we -could only endure to stay there half an hour. The -church, however, is most intensely picturesque, rising -with an infinity of quaintest domes and spires, all -built of timber, out of a rude cloister painted red, the -whole having the appearance of a very tall Chinese -pagoda, yet only measuring altogether 84 feet by 57. -The belfry, Norwegian-wise, stands alone on the other -side of the churchyard, which is overgrown with pink -willow-herb. When we reached the inn, as famished -as wolves in winter, we were told by our landlady -that she could not give us any dinner. 'Nei, nei,' nothing -would induce her—she had too much work on -her hands already—perhaps, however, the woman at -the house with the flag would give us some. So, -hungry and faint, we walked forth again to a house -which had a flag flying in front of it, where all was -silent and deserted, except for a dog who received us -furiously. Having pacified him, and finding the front -door locked, we made good our entrance at the back, -examined the kitchen, peeped into all the cupboards, -lifted up the lids of all the saucepans, and not till we -had searched every corner for food ineffectually, were -met by the pretty, pleasant-looking young lady of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>house, who informed us in excellent English, and -with no small surprise at our conduct, that we had -been committing a raid upon her private residence. -Afterwards we discovered a lonely farmhouse, where -there had once been a flag, and where they gave us a -very good dinner, ending in a great bowl of cloudberries—in -which we were joined by two pleasant -young ladies and their father, an old gentleman -smoking an enormous long pipe, who turned out to -be the Bishop of Christiansand. The house of the -landamann of Hitterdal contains a relic connected -with a picturesque story quaintly illustrative of ancient -Scandinavian life. It is an axe, with a handle -projecting beyond the blade, and curved, so that -it can be used as a walking-stick. Formerly it -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>belonged to an ancient descendant of the Kongen, or -chieftains of the district, who insisted upon carrying -it to church with him in accordance with an old privilege. -The priest forbade the bearing of the warlike -weapon into church, which so much affected the old -man that he died. His son, who thought it necessary -to avenge his father's death, went to the priest with -the axe in his hands, and demanded the most precious -thing he possessed—when the priest brought his Bible -and gave it to him, open upon a passage exhorting to -forgiveness of injuries.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_115.jpg" id="i_115" alt="" width="490" height="262" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> THRONDTJEM FYORD.</p> -</div> - -<p>On July 25 we left Kristiania for Throndtjem—the -whole journey of three hundred and sixty miles -being very comfortable, and only costing 30 francs. -The route has no great beauty, but endless pleasant -variety—rail to Eidswold, with bilberries and strawberries -in pretty birch-bark baskets for sale at all the -railway stations; a vibrating steamer for several hours -on the long, dull Miosen lake; railway again, with -some of the carriages open at the sides; then an -obligatory night at Koppang, a large station, where -accommodation is provided for every one, but where, if -there are many passengers, several people, strangers -to each other, are expected to share the same room. -On the second day the scenery improves, the railway -sometimes running along and sometimes over the river -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span>Glommen, on a wooden causeway, till the gorge of -mountains opens beyond Stören, into a rich country -with turfy mounds constantly reminding us of the -graves of the hero-gods of Upsala. Towards sunset, -beyond the deep cleft in which the river Nid runs -between lines of old painted wooden warehouses, rises -the burial-place of S. Olaf, the shrine of Scandinavian -Christianity, the stumpy-towered cathedral of -Throndtjem. The most northern railway station and -the most northern cathedral in Europe!</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_117.jpg" id="i_117" alt="" width="490" height="325" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> THRONDTJEM CATHEDRAL.</p> -</div> - -<p>Surely the cradle of Scandinavian Christianity is -one of the most beautiful places in the world! No -one had ever told us about it, and we went there only -because it is the old Throndtjem of sagas and ballads, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>and expecting a wonderful and beautiful cathedral. -But the whole place is a dream of loveliness, so exquisite -in the soft silvery morning light on the fyord -and delicate mountain ranges, the rich nearer hills -covered with bilberries and breaking into steep cliffs—that -one remains in a state of transport, which is -at a climax while all is engraven upon an opal sunset -sky, when an amethystine glow spreads over the -mountains, and when ships and buildings meet their -double in the still, transparent water. Each wide -street of curious low wooden houses displays a new -vista of sea, of rocky promontories, of woods dipping -into the water; and at the end of the principal street -is the grey massive cathedral where S. Olaf is buried, -and where northern art and poetry have exhausted -their loveliest and most pathetic fancies around the -grave of the national hero.</p> - -<p>The 'Cathedral Garden,' for so the graveyard is -called, is most touching. Acres upon acres of graves -are all kept—not by officials, but by the families they -belong to—like gardens. The tombs are embowered -in roses and honeysuckle, and each little green mound -has its own vase for cut flowers daily replenished, and -a seat for the survivors, which is daily occupied, so -that the link between the dead and the living is never -broken.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span></p> -<p>Christianity was first established in Norway at -the end of the tenth century by King Olaf Trygveson, -son of Trygve and of the lady Astrida, whose romantic -adventures, when sold as a slave after her -husband's death, are the subject of a thousand stories. -When Olaf succeeded to the throne of Norway after -the death of Hako, son of Sigurd, in 996, he -proclaimed Christianity throughout his dominions, -heard matins daily himself, and sent out missionaries -through his dominions. But the duty of the so-called -missionaries had little to do with teaching, they -were only required to baptize. All who refused baptism -were tortured and put to death. When, at one -time, the estates of the province of Throndtjem tried -to force Olaf back to the old religion, he outwardly -assented, but made the condition that the offended -pagan deities should in that case be appeased by -human sacrifice—the sacrifice of the twelve nobles -who were most urgent in compelling him; and upon -this the ardour of the chieftains for paganism was -cooled, and they allowed Olaf unhindered to demolish -the great statue of Thor, covered with gold and -jewels, in the centre of the province of Throndtjem, -where he founded the city then called Nidaros, upon -the river Nid.</p> - -<p>No end of stories are narrated of the cruelties of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span>Olaf Trygveson. When Egwind, a northern chieftain, -refused to abandon his idols, he first attempted -to bribe him, but, when gentler means failed, a chafing-dish -of hot coals was placed upon his belly till he -died. Raude the magician had a more horrible fate: -an adder was forced down a horn into his stomach, -and left to eat its way out again!</p> - -<p>The first Christian king of Norway was an habitual -drunkard, and, by twofold adultery, he, the -husband of Godruna, married Thyra of Denmark, -the wife of Duke Borislaf of Pomerania. This led -to a war with Denmark and Sweden, whose united -fleets surrounded him near Stralsund. As much -mystery enshrouds the story of his death as is connected -with that of Arthur, Barbarossa, or Harold: -as his royal vessel, the <em>Long Serpent</em>, was boarded by -the enemy, he plunged into the sea and was no more -seen, though some chroniclers say that he swam to -the shore in safety and died afterwards at Rome, -whither he went on pilgrimage.</p> - -<p>Olaf Trygveson had a godson Olaf, son of Harald -Grenske and Asta, who had the nominal title of king -given to all sea captains of royal descent. From his -twelfth year, Olaf Haraldsen was a pirate, and he -headed the band of Danes who destroyed Canterbury -and murdered S. Elphege—a strange feature in the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span>life of one who has been himself regarded as a saint -since his death. By one of the strange freaks of -fortune common in those times, this Olaf Haraldsen -gained a great victory over the chieftain Sweyn, who -then ruled at Nidaros, and, chiefly through the influence -of Sigurd Syr, a great northern landowner -who had become the second husband of his mother, -he became seated in 1016 upon the throne of Norway. -His first care was for the restoration of Christianity, -which had fallen into decadence in the sixteen years -which had elapsed since the defeat of Olaf Trygveson. -The second Olaf imitated the violence and cruelty -of his predecessor. Whenever the new religion was -rejected, he beheaded or hung the delinquents. In -his most merciful moments he mutilated and blinded -them: 'he did not spare one who refused to serve -God.' After fourteen years of unparalleled cruelties in -the name of religion, he fell in battle with Canute the -Great at Sticklestadt. He had abducted and married -Astrida, daughter of the King of Sweden, but by her -he had no children. By his concubine Alfhilda he -left an only son, who lived to become Magnus the -Good, King of Norway. There is a very fine story of -the way in which Magnus obtained his name. Olaf -had said, 'I very seldom sleep, and if I ever do it will -be the worse for any one who awakens me.' Whilst -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span>he was asleep Alfhilda's child was born. Then the -King's scald or poet and Siegfried the mass priest -debated together as to whether they should awaken -him. At first they thought they would; then the poet -said, 'No; I know him better than that: he must not -be awakened.' 'That is all very well,' said the priest, -'but the child must be baptised at once. What shall -we call him?' 'Oh,' said the scald, 'I know that the -King said that the child should be named after the -greatest monarch that ever lived, and his name was -Magnus,' for he only remembered one part of the -name. So they called him Magnus.</p> - -<p>When the King woke up he was furious. 'Who -can have dared to do this thing—to christen the child -without consulting me, and to give him this outlandish -name, which is no name at all—who can have -dared to do it?'</p> - -<p>Then the mass priest was terrified and shrank into -his shoes, but the scald answered boldly, 'I did it, -and I did it because it was better to send two souls -to God than one soul to the devil; for if the child -had died unbaptised it would have been lost, but if -you kill Siegfried and me we shall go straight to -heaven.'</p> - -<p>And then King Olaf thought he would say no -more about it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p> -<p>However terrible the cruelties of Olaf Haraldsen -were in his lifetime, they were soon dazzled out of -sight amid the halo of miracles with which his -memory was encircled by the Roman Catholic -Church. It was only recollected that when, according -to the legend, he raced for the kingdom with his -half-brother Harald, in his good ship the <em>Ox</em>,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Saint Olaf, who on God relied,</div> - <div class="verse">Three days the first his house descried;</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent1">after which</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">Harald so fierce with anger burned</div> - <div class="verse">He to a lothely dragon turned;</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent1">but because</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">A pious zeal Saint Olaf bore,</div> - <div class="verse">He long the crown of Norway wore.</div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>His admirers narrated that when he was absently -cutting chips from a stick with his knife on -a Sunday, a servant passed him with the reproof, -'Sir, it is Monday to-morrow,' when he placed the -sinful chips in his hand, and, setting them on fire, -bore the pain till they were all consumed. It was -remembered that as he walked to the church which -Olaf Trygveson had founded at Nidaros, he 'wore a -glory in his yellow hair.' And gradually he became -the most popular saint of Scandinavia. His shirt was -an object of pilgrimage in the Church of S. Victor -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>at Paris, and many churches were dedicated to him -in England, and especially in London, where Tooley -Street still records his familiar appellation of S. -Tooley.</p> - -<p>It was when the devotion to S. Olaf was just -beginning that Earl Godwin and his sons were -banished from England for a time. Two of these, -Harold and Tosti, became vikings, and, in a great -battle, they vowed that, if they were victorious, they -would give half the spoil to the shrine of S. Olaf; -and a huge silver statue, which they actually gave, -existed at Throndtjem till 1500, and if it existed -still would be one of the most important relics in -archæology. The old Kings of Norway used to dig -up the saint from time to time and cut his nails. -When Harold Hardrada was going to England, he -declared that he must see S. Olaf once again. 'I -must see my brother once more,' he said, and he also -cut the saint's nails. But he also thought that from -that time it would be better that no one should see -his brother any more—it would not be for the good -of the Church—so he took the keys of the shrine -and threw them into the fyord; at the same time -however, he said it would be good for men in after-ages -to know what a great king was like, so he -caused S. Olaf's measure to be engraved upon the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span>wall in the church at Throndtjem—his measure of -seven feet—and there it is still.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_125.jpg" id="i_125" alt="" width="325" height="450" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> S. OLAF'S WELL.</p> -</div> - -<p>Around the shrine of Olaf in Throndtjem, in -which, in spite of Harold Hardrada, his 'incorrupt -body' was seen more than five hundred years after -his death, has arisen the most beautiful of northern -cathedrals, originating in a small chapel built over -his grave within ten years after his death. The -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>exquisite colour of its green-grey stone adds greatly -to the general effect of the interior, and to the -delicate sculpture of its interlacing arches. From -the ambulatory behind the choir opens a tiny -chamber containing the Well of S. Olaf, of rugged -yellow stone, with the holes remaining in the pavement -through which the dripping water ran away -when the buckets were set down. Amongst the -many famous Bishops of Throndtjem, perhaps the -most celebrated has been Anders Arrebo, 'the father -of Danish poetry' (1587-1637), who wrote the -'Hexameron,' an extraordinarily long poem on the -Creation, which nobody reads now. The cathedral is -given up to Lutheran worship, but its ancient relics -are kindly tended and cared for, and the building -is being beautifully restored. Its beautiful Chapter -House is lent for English service on Sundays.</p> - -<p>In the wide street which leads from the sea to -the cathedral is the 'Coronation House,' the wooden -palace in which the Kings and Queens of Sweden and -Norway stay when they come hither to be crowned. -Hither the present beloved Queen, Sophie of Nassau, -came in 1873, driving herself in her own carriole from -the Romsdal, in graceful compliance with the popular -mode of Norwegian travel. It is because even the -finest buildings in Norway are generally built of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span>wood that there are so few of any real antiquity. -Near the shore of the fyord, the custom-house occupies -the site of the Orething, where the elections of -twenty kings have taken place. It is sacred ground -to a King of Norway, who passes it bareheaded. -The familiar affection with which the Norwegians -regard their sovereigns can scarcely be comprehended -in any other country. To their people they -are 'the father and mother of the land.' The broken -Norse is remembered at Throndtjem in which King -Carl Johann begged people 'to make room for their -old father' when they pressed too closely upon -him. When the present so beloved Queen drove -herself to her coronation, the people met her with -flowers at all the 'stations' where the horses were -changed. 'Are you the mother of the land?' -they said. 'You look nice, but you must do more -than look nice; that is not the essential.' One old -woman begged the lady in waiting to beg her -majesty to get upon the roof of the house. 'Then -we should all see her.' At Throndtjem the peasants -touchingly and affectionately always addressed her -as 'Du.'</p> - -<p>In returning from Throndtjem we left the railway -at Stören, where we engaged a double carriole, and a -carriage for four with a pleasant boy called Johann -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>as its driver, for the return journey. It was difficult -to obtain definite information about anything, English -books being almost useless from their incorrectness, -and we set off with a sort of sense of exploring an -unknown country. At every 'station' we changed -horses, which were sent back by the boy, who perched -upon the luggage behind, and we marked our distances -by calling our horses after the Kings of -England. Thus, setting off from Stören with William -the Conqueror, we drove into the Romsdal with -Edward <abbr title="the sixth">VI</abbr>. After a drive with Lady Jane Grey, we -set off again with Mary. But the Kings of England -failed us long before our driving days were over, and -we used up all the Kings of Rome also. As we were -coming down a steep hill into Lillehammer with -Tarquinius Superbus, something gave way and he -quietly walked out of the harness, leaving us to run -briskly down-hill and subside into the hedge. We -captured Tarquinius, but how to put him in again -was a mystery, as we had never harnessed a horse -before. However, by trying every strap in turn we -got him in somehow, and escaped the fate of Red -Riding Hood amid the lonely hills.</p> - -<p>For a great distance after leaving Stören there is -little especially striking in the scenery, except one -gorge of old weird pine-trees in a rift of purple -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>mountains. After you emerge upon the high Dovre-Fyeld, -the huge ranges of Sneehatten rise snowy, -gleaming, and glorious, above the wide yellow-grey -expanse, hoary with reindeer moss, though, as the -Dovre-Fyeld is itself three thousand feet high, and -Sneehatten only seven thousand three hundred, it -does not look so high as it really is. Next to -Throndtjem itself, the old ballads and songs of -Norway gather most thickly around the Dovre-Fyeld. -It is here that the witches are supposed to -hold their secret meetings at their Blokulla, or black -hill. Across these yellow hills of the Jerkin-Fyeld -the prose Edda describes Thor striding to his conflict -with the dragon Jormangandur 'by Sneehatten's peak -of snow,' where 'the tall pines cracked like a field of -stubble under his feet;' and here, according to the -ancient fragment called the ballad of 'The Twelve -Wizards,' as given in Prior's 'Ancient Danish -Ballads'—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - <div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">At Dovrefeld, over on Norway's reef,</div> - <div class="verse">Were heroes who never knew pain or grief.</div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - <div class="verse">There dwelt there many a warrior keen,</div> - <div class="verse">The twelve bold brothers of Ingeborg queen.</div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - <div class="verse">The first with his hand the storm could hush</div> - <div class="verse">The second could stop the torrent's rush.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span></div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - <div class="verse">The third could dive in the sea as a fish;</div> - <div class="verse">The fourth never wanted meat on dish.</div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - <div class="verse">The fifth he would strike the golden lyre,</div> - <div class="verse">And young and old to the dancing fire.</div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - <div class="verse">The sixth on the horn would blow a blast,</div> - <div class="verse">Who heard it would shudder and stand aghast.</div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - <div class="verse">The seventh go under the earth could he;</div> - <div class="verse">The eighth he could dance on the rolling sea.</div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - <div class="verse">The ninth tamed all that in greenwood crept;</div> - <div class="verse">The tenth not a nap had ever slept.</div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - <div class="verse">The eleventh the grisly lindworm bound,</div> - <div class="verse">And will what he would, the means he found.</div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - <div class="verse">The twelfth he could all things understand,</div> - <div class="verse">Though done in a nook of the farthest land.</div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - <div class="verse">Their equals were never seen there in the North,</div> - <div class="verse">Nor anywhere else on the face of the earth.</div> - <div class="stanza"></div> - </div> - </div> -</div> - -<p>In spite of great fatigue from the distances to be -accomplished, each day's journey in carriage or carriole -has its peculiar charms, the going on and on -into an unknown land, meeting no one, sleeping in -odd, primitive, but always clean rooms, setting off -again at half-past five or six, and halting at comfortable -stations, with their ever-moderate prices and -their cheery farm-servants, who kissed our hands all -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span>round on receiving the very smallest gratuity—a -coin meaning twopence-halfpenny being a source of -ecstatic bliss.</p> - -<p>The 'bonders,' who keep the stations, generally -themselves represent the gentry of the country, the -real gentry filling the position of the English aristocracy. -The bonders are generally very well off, -having small tithes, good houses, boundless fuel, a -great variety of food, and continual change of labour -on their own small properties. Their wives, who -never walk, have a sledge for winter, and a carriole -and horse to take them to church in summer. In -the many months of snow, when the cows and horses -are all stabled in the 'laave,' and when out-of-door -occupations fail, they occupy the time with household -pursuits—carpentering, tailoring, or brewing. When -a bonder dies, his wife succeeds to his property until -her second marriage; then it is divided amongst his -children.</p> - -<p>The 'stations' or farmhouses are almost entirely -built of wood, but those of a superior class have a -single room of stone, used only in bridals or births, a -custom handed down from old times when a place of -special safety was required at those seasons.</p> - -<p>Nine-tenths of the country are covered with pine-forests, -but the trees are always cut down before they -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span>grow old. We did not see a single old tree in -Norway. The pines are of two kinds only—the -<em>Furu</em>, our pine, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Pinus silvestris</i>; and the <em>Gran</em>, our -fir, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Pinus abies</i>.</p> - -<p>Wolves seldom appear except in winter, when -those who travel in sledges are often pursued by them. -Then hunger makes them so bold that they will often -snatch a dog from between the knees of a driver.</p> - -<p>From the station of Dombaas (where there is a -telegraph station and a shop of old silver) we turned -aside down the Romsdal, which soon became beautiful, -as the road wound above the Chrysoprase river Rauma, -broken by many rocky islets and swirling into many -waterfalls, but always equally radiant, equally transparent, -till its colour is washed out by the melting -snow in a ghastly narrow valley, which we called the -Valley of Death.</p> - -<p>The little inn at Aak, in Romsdal, with a large -garden stretching along the hillside, disappointed us -at first, as the clouds hid the mountain-tops, but -morning revealed how glorious they are—purple -pinnacles of rock or pathless fields of snow embossed -upon a sky which is delicately blue above but melts -into the clearest opal. Grander, we thought, than -any single peak in Switzerland is the tremendous -peak of the Romsdalhorn, and the walks in all -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span>directions are most exquisite—into deep glades filled -with columbines and the giant larkspurs, which are -such a feature of Norway: into tremendous mountain -gorges: or to Waeblungsnaes, along the banks of the -lovely fyord, with its marvellously quaint forms of -mountain distance. Aak is a place where a month -may be spent most delightfully, as well as most comfortably -and economically.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_133.jpg" id="i_133" alt="" width="480" height="336" /> -<p class="captioncenter"> IN THE ROMSDAL, NORWAY.</p> -</div> - -<p>We had heard a great deal before we went to -Norway about the difficulty of getting proper food, -but our own experience is that we were never fed -more luxuriously. Perhaps very late in the season -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span>the provisions at the country 'stations' may be somewhat -used up, but when we were there in July only -those who could not live without a great deal of meat -could have any cause for complaint, and once a week -we generally had reindeer for a treat. When we -arrived in the evenings, we always found an excellent -meal prepared—the most delicious coffee, tea, and -cream; baskets of bread, rusks, cakes and biscuits of -various descriptions; fresh salmon and trout; cloudberries, -bilberries, raspberries, mountain strawberries -and cream; and for all this about a franc and a half -is the payment required.</p> - -<p>My companions lingered at Kristiania whilst I -paid a visit, which is one of the most delightful recollections -of my tour, to a native family near Moss, -at the mouth of the fyord; then we came back to -Denmark, travelling in the same train with the beloved -Prince Imperial, who was then in the height of health -and happiness, and received at every station with the -enthusiastic 'Hochs!' which in Scandinavia supply -the place of the English hurrah.</p> - -<p class="p4"></p> - -<p class="p06">LONDON: PRINTED BY</p> -<p class="p06">SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE</p> -<p class="p06">AND PARLIAMENT STREET</p> - -<p class="p4"></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h3><a name="WORKS_BY_AUGUSTUS_J_C_HARE" id="WORKS_BY_AUGUSTUS_J_C_HARE"></a>WORKS BY AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE.</h3> - -<p class="hang50">CITIES OF SOUTHERN ITALY AND SICILY. -With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">'Mr. Hare's name will be a sufficient passport for the popularity of his new work. -His books on the Cities of Italy are fast becoming as indispensable to the traveller -in that part of the country as the guide-books of Murray or of Baedeker.... His -book is one which I should advise all future travellers in Southern Italy and Sicily -to find room for in their portmanteaus.'—<span class="smcap">Academy.</span></p> - -<p class="p09">'We regard the volume as a necessary part of the equipment of a traveller in -Southern Italy; if he goes without it he will miss the most thorough and most helpful -book that has treated it. The part devoted to Sicily is especially full of interest: -and we should not omit to make mention of the exquisite little woodcuts done from -Mr. Hare's water-colours executed on the spot.'—<span class="smcap">British Quarterly Review.</span></p> - - -<p class="hang50">CITIES OF CENTRAL ITALY. With Illustrations. -2 vols. crown 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> - - -<p class="hang50">CITIES OF NORTHERN ITALY. With Illustrations. -2 vols. crown 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">'We can imagine no better way of spending a wet day in Florence or Venice -than in reading all that Mr. Hare has to say and quote about the history, arts, -and famous people of those cities. These volumes come under the class of volumes -not to borrow, but to buy.'—<span class="smcap">Morning Post.</span></p> - - -<p class="hang50">WALKS IN ROME. Eleventh Edition. With Map. -2 vols. crown 8vo. 18<i>s.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">'The best handbook of the city and environs of Rome ever published.... -Cannot be too much commended.'—<span class="smcap">Pall Mall Gazette.</span></p> - -<p class="p09">'This book is sure to be very useful. It is thoroughly practical, and is the best -guide that yet has been offered.'—<span class="smcap">Daily News.</span></p> - -<p class="p09">'Mr. Hare's book fills a real void, and gives to the tourist all the latest discoveries -and the fullest information bearing on that most inexhaustible of subjects, -the city of Rome.... It is much fuller than "Murray," and anyone who chooses -may now know how Rome really looks in sun or shade.'—<span class="smcap">Spectator.</span></p> - - -<p class="hang50">WALKS IN LONDON. Fifth Edition. With numerous -Illustrations. 2 vols. crown 8vo. 21<i>s.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">'One of the really valuable as well as pleasant companions to the peripatetic -philosopher's rambling studies of the town.'—<span class="smcap">Daily Telegraph.</span></p> - - -<p class="hang50">DAYS NEAR ROME. With more than 100 Illustrations -by the Author. Third Edition. 2 vols. crown 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> - - -<p class="hang50">WANDERINGS IN SPAIN. With Illustrations. Fourth -Edition. Crown 8vo. 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">'Mr. Hare's book is admirable. We are sure no one will regret making it the -companion of a Spanish journey. It will bear reading repeatedly when one is -moving among the scenes it describes—no small advantage when the travelling -library is scanty.'—<span class="smcap">Saturday Review.</span></p> - -<p class="p09">'Here is the ideal book of travel in Spain; the book which exactly anticipates -the requirements of everybody who is fortunate enough to be going to that -enchanted land; the book which ably consoles those who are not so happy by -supplying the imagination from the daintiest and most delicious of its stories.' -—<span class="smcap">Spectator.</span></p> - - -<p class="p09">'Since the publication of "Castilian Days," by the American diplomat, Mr. John -Hay, no pleasanter or more readable sketches have fallen under our notice.' -—<span class="smcap">Athenæum.</span></p> - - -<p class="hang50">THE LIFE AND LETTERS OF FRANCES -BARONESS BUNSEN. With Portraits. 2 vols. crown 8vo. 24<i>s.</i></p> - - -<p class="hang50">MEMORIALS OF A QUIET LIFE. 3 vols. crown 8vo. -Vols. <abbr title="1">I</abbr>. and <abbr title="2">II</abbr>. 21<i>s.</i>; Vol. <abbr title="3">III</abbr>., with numerous -Photographs, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">'The name of Hare is one deservedly to be honoured; and in these "Memorials," -which are as true and satisfactory a biography as it is possible to write, the author -places his readers in the heart of the family, and allows them to see the hidden -sources of life and love by which it is nourished and sustained.'—<span class="smcap">Athenæum.</span></p> - -<p class="p09">'One of those books which it is impossible to read without pleasure. It conveys -a sense of repose not unlike that which everybody must have felt out of service time -in quiet little village churches. Its editor will receive the hearty thanks of every -cultivated reader for these profoundly interesting "Memorials" of two brothers, -whose names and labours their universities and church have alike reason to cherish -with affection and remember with pride, who have smoothed the path of faith to so -many troubled wayfarers, strengthening the weary and confirming the weak.' -—<span class="smcap">Standard.</span></p> - -<p class="p09">'The book is rich in insight and in contrast of character. It is varied and full of -episodes, which few can fail to read with interest; and as exhibiting the sentiments -and thoughts of a very influential circle of minds during a quarter of a century, it -may be said to have a distinct historical value.'—<span class="smcap">Nonconformist.</span></p> - -<p class="p09">'A charming book, simply and gracefully recording the events of simple and -gracious life. Its connection with the beginning of a great movement in the English -Church will make it to the thoughtful reader more profoundly suggestive than many -biographies crowded and bustling with incident. It is almost the first of a class of -books the Christian world just now greatly needs, as showing how the spiritual life -was maintained amid the shaking of religious "opinions"; how the life of the soul -deepened as the thoughts of the mind broadened; and how, in their union, the two -formed a volume of larger and more thoroughly vitalised Christian idea than the -English people had witnessed for many days.'—<span class="smcap">Glasgow Herald.</span></p> - - -<p class="hang50">FLORENCE. Fcp. 8vo. cloth limp, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - - -<p class="hang50">VENICE. Fcp. 8vo. cloth limp, 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<hr class="r40" /> -<p class="center">London: SMITH, ELDER, & CO. 15 Waterloo Place.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span></p> -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="p4"></p> -<h3><a name="WORKS_BY_AUGUSTUS_J_C_HARE_2" id="WORKS_BY_AUGUSTUS_J_C_HARE_2"></a>WORKS BY AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE.</h3> - - -<p class="hang50">LIFE AND LETTERS OF FRANCES, BARONESS BUNSEN. -<em>Fourth Edition.</em> With Portraits. -2 vols., crown 8vo, Cloth, 21<i>s.</i></p> - - -<p class="hang50">MEMORIALS OF A QUIET LIFE. 3 vols., crown 8vo. -Vols. <abbr title="1">I</abbr>. and <abbr title="2">II</abbr>., Cloth, 21<i>s.</i> (<em>Nineteenth Edition</em>); Vol. <abbr title="3">III</abbr>., with -numerous Photographs, Cloth, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">"One of those books which it is impossible to read without pleasure. It -conveys a sense of repose not unlike that which everybody must have felt -out of service time in quiet little village churches. Its editor will receive -the hearty thanks of every cultivated reader for these profoundly interesting -'Memorials' of two brothers, whose names and labours their universities -and Church have alike reason to cherish with affection and remember with -pride, who have smoothed the path of faith to so many troubled wayfarers, -strengthening the weary and confirming the weak."—<cite>Standard.</cite></p> - -<p class="hang50">DAYS NEAR ROME. With more than 100 Illustrations -by the Author. <em>Third Edition.</em> 2 vols., crown 8vo, Cloth, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="hang50">WALKS IN ROME. <em>Sixteenth Edition.</em> Revised by the -<span class="smcap">Author</span> and <span class="smcap">St. Clair Baddeley</span>. With 3 Plans -and Illustrations showing recent discoveries. 2 vols., fcap. 8vo, -Cloth limp, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">"The best handbook of the city and environs of Rome ever published.... -Cannot be too much commended."—<cite>Pall Mall Gazette.</cite></p> - -<p class="p09">"This book is sure to be very useful. It is thoroughly practical, and is -the best guide that has yet been offered."—<cite>Daily News.</cite></p> - -<p class="p09">"Mr. Hare's book fills a real void, and gives to the tourist all the latest -discoveries and the fullest information bearing on that most inexhaustible -of subjects, the city of Rome.... It is much fuller than 'Murray,' and -any one who chooses may know how Rome really looks in sun or shade."—<cite>Spectator.</cite></p> - -<p class="hang50">WALKS IN LONDON. <em>Seventh Edition, revised.</em> With -additional Illustrations. 2 vols., fcap. 8vo, Cloth limp, 12<i>s.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">"One of the really valuable as well as pleasant companions to the peripatetic -philosopher's rambling studies of the town."—<cite>Daily Telegraph.</cite></p> - -<p class="hang50">WESTMINSTER. Reprinted from "Walks in London," -as a Handy Guide. <em>Third Edition.</em> 120 pages. Paper Covers, -6<i>d.</i> <em>net</em>; Cloth, 1<i>s.</i></p> - -<p class="hang50">WANDERINGS IN SPAIN. With 17 Full-page Illustrations. -<em>Eighth Edition.</em> Fcap. 8vo, Cloth limp, 3<i>s.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">"Here is the ideal book of travel in Spain; the book which exactly -anticipates the requirements of everybody who is fortunate enough to be -going to that enchanted land; the book which ably consoles those who are -not so happy by supplying the imagination from the daintiest and most -delicious of its stories."—<cite>Spectator.</cite></p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span></p> - -<p class="hang50">CITIES OF SOUTHERN ITALY AND SICILY. -With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, Cloth, 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">"Mr. Hare's name will be a sufficient passport for the popularity of his -work. His books on the Cities of Italy are fast becoming as indispensable -to the traveller in that part of the country as the guide-books of -Murray or of Baedeker.... His book is one which I should advise all -future travellers in Southern Italy and Sicily to find room for in their -portmanteaus."—<cite>Academy.</cite></p> - -<p class="hang50">CITIES OF NORTHERN ITALY. <cite>Second Edition.</cite> -With Illustrations. 2 vols., crown 8vo, Cloth, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">"We can imagine no better way of spending a wet day in Florence or -Venice than in reading all that Mr. Hare has to say and quote about the -history, arts, and famous people of those cities. These volumes come -under the class of volumes not to borrow, but to buy."—<cite>Morning Post.</cite></p> - -<p class="hang50">CITIES OF CENTRAL ITALY. <em>Second Edition.</em> With -Illustrations. 2 vols., crown 8vo, Cloth, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="hang50">SKETCHES IN HOLLAND AND SCANDINAVIA. -Crown 8vo, with Illustrations, Cloth, 3<i>s.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">"This little work is the best companion a visitor to these countries can -have, while those who stay at home can also read it with pleasure and -profit."—<cite>Glasgow Herald.</cite></p> - -<p class="hang50">STUDIES IN RUSSIA. Crown 8vo, with numerous -Illustrations, Cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> - -<p class="p09">"Mr. Hare's book may be recommended as at once entertaining and -instructive."—<cite>Athenæum.</cite></p> - -<p class="p09">"A delightful and instructive guide to the places visited. It is, in fact, -a sort of glorified guide-book, with all the charm of a pleasant and cultivated -literary companion."—<cite>Scotsman.</cite></p> - -<p class="hang50">FLORENCE. <em>Sixth Edition.</em> Revised by the <span class="smcap">Author</span> -and <span class="smcap">W. St. Clair Baddeley</span>. Fcap. 8vo, Cloth limp, 3<i>s.</i> -With 2 Plans and 30 Illustrations.</p> - -<p class="hang50">VENICE. <em>Sixth Edition.</em> Revised by the <span class="smcap">Author</span> and -<span class="smcap">W. St. Clair Baddeley</span>. Fcap. 8vo, Cloth limp, 3<i>s.</i> With -2 Plans and 17 Illustrations.</p> - -<p class="p09">"The plan of these little volumes is excellent.... Anything more -perfectly fulfilling the idea of a guide-book we have never seen."—<cite>Scottish -Review.</cite></p> - -<p class="hang50">THE RIVIERAS. Fcap. 8vo, Cloth limp, 3<i>s.</i> With 67 -Illustrations.</p> - -<p class="hang50">PARIS. <em>New Edition, revised.</em> With 50 Illustrations. -Fcap. 8vo, Cloth limp, 6<i>s.</i> 2 vols., sold separately.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span></p> - -<p class="hang50">DAYS NEAR PARIS. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, -Cloth, 6<i>s.</i>; or in 2 vols., Cloth limp, 6<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="hang50">NORTH-EASTERN FRANCE. Crown 8vo, Cloth, -6<i>s.</i> With Map and 86 Woodcuts.</p> - -<p class="p09">Picardy—Abbeville and Amiens—Paris and its Environs—Arras and -the Manufacturing Towns of the North—Champagne—Nancy and the -Vosges, &c.</p> - -<p class="hang50">SOUTH-EASTERN FRANCE. Crown 8vo, Cloth, -6<i>s.</i> With Map and 176 Woodcuts.</p> - -<p class="p09">The different lines to the South—Burgundy—Auvergne—The Cantal—Provence—The -Alpes Dauphinaises and Alpes Maritimes, &c.</p> - -<p class="hang50">SOUTH-WESTERN FRANCE. Crown 8vo, Cloth, -6<i>s.</i> With Map and 232 Woodcuts.</p> - -<p class="p09">The Loire—The Gironde and Landes—Creuse—Corrèze—The -Limousin—Gascony and Languedoc—The Cevennes and the Pyrenees, -&c.</p> - -<p class="hang50">NORTH-WESTERN FRANCE. Crown 8vo, Cloth, -6<i>s.</i> With Map and 73 Woodcuts.</p> - -<p class="p09">Normandy and Brittany—Rouen—Dieppe—Cherbourg—Bayeux—Caen—Coutances—Chartres—Mont -S. Michel—Dinan—Brest—Alençon, &c.</p> - -<p class="p09">"Mr. Hare's volumes, with their charming illustrations, are a reminder -of how much we miss by neglecting provincial France."—<cite>Times.</cite></p> - -<p class="p09">"The appreciative traveller in France will find no more pleasant, inexhaustible, -and discriminating guide than Mr. Hare.... All the volumes -are most liberally supplied with drawings, all of them beautifully executed, -and some of them genuine masterpieces."—<cite>Echo.</cite></p> - -<p class="p09">"Every one who has used one of Mr. Hare's books will welcome the -appearance of his new work upon France.... The books are the most -satisfactory guide-books for a traveller of culture who wishes improvement -as well as entertainment from a tour.... It is not necessary to go to the -places described before the volumes become useful. While part of the -work describes the district round Paris, the rest practically opens up a new -country for English visitors to provincial France."—<cite>Scotsman.</cite></p> - -<p class="hang50">SUSSEX. <em>Second Edition.</em> With Map and 45 Woodcuts. -Crown 8vo, Cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> - - -<p class="hang50">SHROPSHIRE. With Map and 48 Woodcuts. Cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span></p> - -<p class="hang50">THE STORY OF TWO NOBLE LIVES. <span class="smcap">Charlotte, -Countess Canning, and Louisa, Marchioness of Waterford.</span> -In 3 vols. Crown 8vo, Cloth, £1, 11<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Illustrated -with 11 engraved Portraits and 21 Plates in Photogravure from -Lady Waterford's Drawings, 8 full-page and 24 smaller Woodcuts -from Sketches by the Author.</p> - -<p class="p09">Also a Special Large Paper Edition, with India Proofs of the -Plates. Crown 4to, £3, 3<i>s.</i> <em>net</em>.</p> - -<p class="hang50">THE GURNEYS OF EARLHAM: Memoirs and Letters -of the Eleven Children of <span class="smcap">John</span> and <span class="smcap">Catherine Gurney</span> of -Earlham, 1775-1875, and the Story of their Religious Life under -many Different Forms. Illustrated with 33 Photogravure Plates -and 19 Woodcuts. In 2 vols., crown 8vo, Cloth, 25<i>s.</i></p> -<p class="tdr">[<em>Second Edition.</em></p> - -<p class="hang50">BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES: Memorial Sketches -of <span class="smcap">Arthur Penrhyn Stanley</span>, Dean of Westminster; <span class="smcap">Henry -Alford</span>, Dean of Canterbury; Mrs. <span class="smcap">Duncan Stewart</span>; and -<span class="smcap">Paray le Monial</span>. Illustrated with 7 Portraits and 17 Woodcuts. -Crown 8vo, Cloth, 6<i>s.</i></p> - - -<p class="hang50">THE STORY OF MY LIFE: 1834 to 1870. Vols. <abbr title="1">I</abbr>. -to <abbr title="3">III</abbr>. Recollections of Places, People, and Conversations, from -Letters and Journals. Illustrated with 18 Photogravure Portraits -and 144 Woodcuts from Drawings by the Author. Crown 8vo, -Cloth, £1, 11<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - - -<p class="hang50">THE STORY OF MY LIFE: 1870 to 1900. Vols. <abbr title="4">IV</abbr>. -to <abbr title="6">VI</abbr>. With 12 Photogravure Plates and 247 Woodcuts. Crown -8vo, Cloth, £1, 11<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<hr class="r40" /> - - -<p class="center"><em>BY THE LATE AUGUSTUS WILLIAM HARE</em></p> -<p class="center p06"><em>RECTOR OF ALTON BARNES</em></p> - - -<p class="hang50">THE ALTON SERMONS. <em>Fifth Edition.</em> Crown 8vo, -6<i>s.</i></p> - - -<p class="hang50">SERMONS ON THE LORD'S PRAYER. Crown 8vo, -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<p class="center"><em>GEORGE ALLEN, 156, CHARING CROSS ROAD, LONDON</em></p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="p4"></p> -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span></p><h3><a name="THE_STORY_OF_MY_LIFE" id="THE_STORY_OF_MY_LIFE"></a>THE STORY OF MY LIFE</h3> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By</span> AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE</p> - -<p class="center">Vols. <abbr title="1">I</abbr>. to <abbr title="3">III</abbr>. Crown 8vo, £1, 11s. 6d.</p> -<p class="center">Vols. <abbr title="4">IV</abbr>. to <abbr title="6">VI</abbr>. Crown 8vo, £1, 11s. 6d.</p> - - -<hr class="r40" /> -<p class="center"><em>PRESS NOTICES</em></p> - -<p>"The story is full of varied interest.... Readers who know -how to pick and choose will find plenty to entertain them, and -not a little which is well worth reading."—<cite>The Times.</cite></p> - -<p>"Mr. Hare gives an idyllic picture of the simple, refined, -dignified life at Lime.... The volumes are an inexhaustible -storehouse of anecdote."—<cite>Daily News.</cite></p> - -<p>"The reader rarely comes across a passage which does not -afford amusement or pleasant entertainment."—<cite>The Scotsman.</cite></p> - -<p>"One may safely predict that this will be the most popular -book of the season.... We have not space to point out a -twentieth part of the passages that might be described as having -a special interest. Moreover, though the book is, among other -things, a repertory of curious occurrences and amusing anecdotes, -it is much more remarkable as a book of sentiment and -character, and a story of real life told with remarkable fulness."—<cite>The -Guardian.</cite></p> - -<p>"A book which will greatly amuse the reader."—<cite>The -Spectator.</cite></p> - -<p>"Much of what the author has to tell is worthy the telling, -and is told with considerable ease and grace, and with a power -to interest out of the common. He introduces us to the best of -good company, and tells many excellently witty stories.... -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> -Whenever he is describing foreign life he is at his best; and -nothing can exceed the beautiful pathos of the episodes in which -his mother appears. Indeed, he has the gift of tenderness for -all good women and brave men."—<cite>Daily Telegraph.</cite></p> - -<p>"This autobiography could not fail to be exceptionally interesting. -There may be readers who will protest that the -more minute details of daily life might have been abridged with -advantage, but the aim of the book makes this elaborate treatment -of the subject indispensable. The conscientious record -of a mental development amid curious surroundings, would -make these volumes valuable if not a single name of note were -mentioned.... Even more interesting than the stories of -people and things that are still remembered are the glimpses -of a past which is quickly fading out of recollection."—<cite>The -Standard.</cite></p> - -<p>"The book is unexceptionable on the score of taste.... It -is an agreeable miscellany into which one may dip at random -with the certainty of landing something entertaining, rather -than an autobiography of the ordinary kind. The concluding -chapter is full of a deep and tender pathos."—<cite>The Manchester -Guardian.</cite></p> - -<p>"Mr. Hare's style is graceful and felicitous, and his life-history -was well worth writing. The volumes simply teem with -good things, and in a single article we can but skim the surface -of the riches they contain. A word must also be said of the -beauty and delicacy of the illustrations. Few living men dare -brave criticism by giving us the story of their lives and promising -more. But Mr. Hare is quite justified. He has produced -a fascinating work, in some parts strange as any romance, and -his reminiscences of great men are agreeable and interesting."—<cite>Birmingham -Gazette.</cite></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p> - -<p>"An inexhaustible storehouse of anecdote."—<cite>South-Western -News.</cite></p> - -<p>"These volumes possess an almost unique interest because -of the striking series of portraits we get in them, not so much of -celebrities, of whom we often hear enough, but of 'originals' in -private life.... They give us a truly remarkable picture of -certain sections of European society, and, above all, introduce -us to some singularly quaint types of human character."—<cite>Glasgow -Herald.</cite></p> - -<p>"Brimful of anecdotes, this autobiography will yield plenty of -entertainment. We should like to quote many a characteristic -little tale, but must content ourselves by heartily recommending -all who care for the pleasantest of pleasant gossip concerning -famous people and places to procure these three volumes."—<cite>Publisher's -Circular.</cite></p> - -<p>"Mr. Hare has an easy, agreeable style, and tells a story with -humour and skill."—<cite>The Saturday Review.</cite></p> - -<p>"It would be well for all who think the children of to-day are -over-pampered and too much considered, to read Mr. Hare's -life."—<cite>Lady's Pictorial.</cite></p> - -<p>"Very delicate, idyllic, and fascinating are the pictures the -author has drawn of daily life in old rectories and country -houses."—<cite>The World.</cite></p> - -<p>"Mr. Hare has the gift, the rare gift, of writing about himself -truthfully. Nor can a quick eye for shades of character be -denied to Mr. Hare, who does not seem ready to take people at -their own estimate or even at what may be called their market -price. But we do not detect a touch of malice, but only that -knack of telling the truth which is so hateful to the ordinary -biographer, and so distasteful to that sentimental public which -is never so happy as when devouring sugared falsehoods."—<cite>The -Speaker.</cite></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span></p> - -<p>"The book has throughout a strong human interest. It -contains a great many anecdotes, and in our opinion, at all -events, deserves to take rank among notable biographical -works."—<cite>Westminster Gazette.</cite></p> - -<p>"A deeply interesting book. It is the story of a man who -has seen much and suffered much, and who out of the fulness of -his experience can bring forth much to interest and entertain.... -The book has a wealth of apt quotations and graceful -reference, and though written in a scholarly and cultured way, -it is always simple and interesting.... Nothing in the work -has been set down in malice; there are excuses for everybody.... -Of course it is hardly necessary to say that the book -teems with entertainment from beginning to end."—<cite>St. James's -Budget.</cite></p> - -<p>"There is much besides human character and incident in -these well-packed and well-illustrated volumes.... No one -will close the work without a feeling not only of gratitude for a -long gallery of interesting and brilliantly-speaking portraits, but -of sympathy with the biographer."—<cite>The Athenæum.</cite></p> - -<p>"It is doubtful whether any Englishman living has had a -wider acquaintance among people worth knowing in England -and on the Continent, than the author of these memoirs. It is -also doubtful whether any man, with equal opportunities, could -have turned them to so good an account.... We have here -an incomparable storehouse of anecdotes concerning conspicuous -persons of the first half of this Victorian age."—<cite>New York Sun.</cite></p> - -<p>"This is assuredly a book to read."—<cite>Freeman.</cite></p> - -<p>"Singularly interesting is this autobiography.... Altogether -it is a notable book, and may well be recommended to -those who are interested in the intellectual life of our time."—<cite>New -York Herald.</cite></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span></p> - -<p>"Mr. Hare's excellence, apart from felicity of style and -directness of method, has ever been conspicuous by the excellence -that comes of wide knowledge of his subject, and a -keenly sympathetic nature. Alive as he has ever been to -responsive emotion, he possesses also a bright humour that -seizes upon the discrepancies, the nuances and quaintnesses of -whatever comes within the range of his eye and pen. These -qualities have made for Mr. Hare a circle of admirers who, -while they have sought in his pages no very thrilling passages, -have felt steadily the growth of a liking given to an old friend -who is always kindly and oftentimes amusing.... Mr. Hare -dwells with a rare and touching love upon his mother, and -these passages are amongst the most appealing in the book."—<cite>Philadelphia -Courier.</cite></p> - -<p>"Mr. Hare has given us a picture of English social life that -for vividness, picturesqueness, and completeness, is not excelled -in literature. There is a charming lack of attempt to be literary -in the telling of the story—a refreshing frankness and quaintness -of expression. He takes his readers with him so that they -may breathe the same social atmosphere in which he has spent -his life. With their own eyes they see the things he saw, and -best of all they have freedom to judge them, for Mr. Hare does -not force himself or his opinions upon them."—<cite>New York Press.</cite></p> - -<p>"Mr. Hare's memoirs are their own excuse for being, and -are a distinct addition to the wide and delightful realm of -biographical literature."—<cite>Chicago Journal.</cite></p> - -<p>"It is rarely that an autobiography is planned on so ample a -scale, and yet, to tell the truth, there are singularly few of these -pages which one really cares to skip."—<cite>Good Words.</cite></p> - -<p>"A sad history of Mr. Hare's childhood and boyhood this is -for the most part, but there were bursts of sunshine in Augustus -Hare's life—sunshine shed around him by the kindly, noble-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span>minded -lady who is called mother all through these volumes, -and for whom his reverence and gratitude deepened with years."—<cite>Clifton -Society.</cite></p> - -<p>"The 'Story of My Life' is no commonplace autobiography, -and plunge in where you may, there is something to interest and -attract."—<cite>The Sketch.</cite></p> - -<p>"No one can read these very fascinating pages without feeling -that what their author has written is absolutely that which no -other would have ventured to say of him, and what not one in a -million would have told concerning himself. There is a wonderful -charm of sincerity in what he discloses as to his own feelings, -his likes and dislikes, his actions and trials. He lays -open, with photographic fidelity, the story of his life."—<cite>New -York Churchman.</cite></p> - -<p>"These fair volumes might be labelled the Literature of Peace. -They offer an outlook on life observant, and yet detached, from -the turmoil of disillusion."—<cite>New York Times.</cite></p> - -<p>"Mr. Hare has written an autobiography that will not soon -be forgotten."—<cite>Chicago Tribune.</cite></p> - -<p>"The story of Mr. Hare's literary life is most entertaining, -and the charm of the work lies pre-eminently in the pictures of -the many interesting and often famous men and women whom -he has known."—<cite>Boston Congregationalist.</cite></p> - -<p>"Mr. Hare's story is an intensely interesting one, and his -style, which at first appears to be diffuse, is soon seen to be -perfectly well adapted to the writer's purpose.... These -volumes are full of the most valuable and attractive material -for the student of human nature."—<cite>The Book Buyer.</cite></p> - -<p>"Mr. Hare's story contains no touches of egotism, but is -always plain, honest, and straightforward. It is distinctly -worth reading."—<cite>London Literary World.</cite></p> - -<hr class="full" /> -<p class="center"><i>GEORGE ALLEN, 156, CHARING CROSS ROAD, LONDON</i></p> - </div> - </div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches in Holland and Scandinavia, by -Augustus J. C. 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