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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-27 19:42:59 -0800 |
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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-27 19:42:59 -0800 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..de61c4a --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #61105 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/61105) diff --git a/old/61105-0.txt b/old/61105-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 731d2fa..0000000 --- a/old/61105-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1721 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Begin to Knit, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Begin to Knit - American Thread Co. Star Book No. 201 - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: January 5, 2020 [EBook #61105] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEGIN TO KNIT *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - AMERICAN THREAD CO. STAR BOOK No. 201 29¢ - - - - - BEGINTOKNIT - - - ALL THE BASIC STITCHES • EASY NOVELTY STITCHES • QUICK THINGS TO MAKE - - [Illustration: SO!] - - [Illustration: YOU WANT TO KNIT?] - -Well, why not when it’s so easy with DAWN yarns and this easy-to-follow -instruction book. You’ll find plain and fancy stitches and difficult -looking but oh, so easy to knit designs. And when these designs are -knitted with the soft pastels or bright, gay colors of DAWN Yarns ... -Zowie, you’re in! - - [Illustration: {uncaptioned}] - - [Illustration: american thread - 90 PARK AVENUE, NEW YORK, N.Y. 10016] - -PRINTED IN U.S.A. - - - - - BEGIN TO KNIT CONTENTS - - - Ⓐ - Abbreviations 4 - Afghan 16 - - - Ⓑ - Baby Set 24 - Basic Needs 5 - Bind Off 11 - Blocking & Finishing 15 - Bobbins 6 - Buttonholes 12 - - - Ⓒ - Casting On 7 - Changing Colors 13 - Crochet (Slip st & single crochet) 30 - - - Ⓓ - Decrease 9 - Duplicate stitch 13 - - - Ⓕ - Fancy Stitches 18 - - - Ⓖ - Garter Stitch 8 - Gauge 6 - - - Ⓗ - Holders 6 - - - Ⓘ - Increase 10 - - - Ⓚ - Knit 8 - - - Ⓛ - Left Hand Knitting 5 - Lengthen 31 - - - Ⓜ - Marker 6 - Mittens 22 - Multiple of stitches 6 - - - Ⓝ - Needle Types 6 - - - Ⓟ - Picking Up Stitches 12 - Poncho 33 - P.S.S.O. 10 - Purl 8 - - - Ⓡ - Raglan sweater 28 - Ribbing 9 - - - Ⓢ - Shell 32 - Shorten 31 - Size Information 14 - Slip A Stitch 11 - Slipovers 28, 34 - Socks 20 - Stockinette stitch 9 - - - Ⓦ - Washing 15 - Weaving Toe 13 - Weaving Seams 15 - Winding Wool 5 - - - Ⓨ - Yarn Over 10 - Yarns 5 - - [Illustration: TALK OF THE TRADE] - - ABBREVIATIONS - - K Knit - P Purl - St(s) Stitch(es) - YO Yarn Over - Dec. Decrease - Inc. Increase - Tog. Together - Rnd. Round - P.s.s.o. Pass slip st over st - dpn Double pointed needle - K-O Do not work st, row or round - Beg. Beginning - Bet. Between - * an asterisk. This indicates that the instructions following - are to be repeated across row or for the number of stitches - or times specified. - - [Illustration: {knitters}] - - - - - BASIC NEEDS AND KNOW HOW.... - - -YARNS: Yarns vary in size, twist and texture. Use the “Dawn” Yarn -indicated in the directions as only an experienced expert knitter knows -how to allow for the difference when a substitution is made. It is also -very important to purchase all the yarn needed at one time as different -dye lots frequently have different shades of color. - -When you purchase your yarn always check the dye lot number to make -certain they are all the same. It is much wiser to purchase a little -extra yarn than to try and match the dye lot after your garment is -finished. Though the color may look the same in the skein more often -than not the difference will be seen in the finished work. The “ply” of -yarn means the number of strands twisted together. This can be seen by -taking the end of the yarn and untwisting. - - - FUNDAMENTALS & SOME TIPS - -Learn the basic stitches. There are only three: Knit, Purl and slip. All -the others are produced by variations and in combination with yarn -overs. See page 10. - -Practice first with heavy yarn and thick needles. Study the stitch and -the position it takes on the needle. Follow arrows in illustration. -Learn to recognize when it is wrong. Watch the yarn to see where each -loop of the stitch begins and ends. If you lay your knitting aside for a -few days or longer, always rip back a few rows before starting again. -This will prevent an uneven row. See page 12 for ripping back. - -Parentheses in our instructions are used for an explanation of a st, a -certain section of a garment, or change of sts for change of size. A ROW -is once across the needle. A RIDGE is 2 rows, back and forth. WORK EVEN, -means to continue in pattern st keeping the continuity of the design. - -Always MEASURE straight up and down unless otherwise stated. - - - WINDING WOOL - -Winding the wool correctly is important. Never wind wool tightly as this -stretches it. Wind several strands around fingers, slip these from -fingers. Over these strands, in opposite direction, wind a few more -strands wrapping yarn around fingers and ball. Continue in this manner, -always winding over fingers and in opposite direction from last winding. - -LEFT HAND KNITTING: Follow the instructions but change your copy to read -left hand where it says “right hand” and vice versa. Use a mirror to -study diagrams and charts. This will reverse the image for you. - -JOINING YARNS ... If possible, join the new yarn with a knot at the -beginning of a row. If this cannot be done, work next st with new yarn -leaving a 4 inch length. Work a few sts, tie the ends firmly and with a -yarn needle weave ends into work. - -MARKER ... This term is used whenever it is important that a certain -point is to be marked. Example: increase, decrease, beginning of a row -or round, buttonholes, center st, etc. To make a marker of yarn, use a -different color; make a slip knot leaving ends about 2 inches in length. -Place on needle as directed. Slip marker off one needle to the other -needle in each successive round. - -MULTIPLE OF STS ... This term is used generally at beginning of -directions and means that a certain multiple of sts is necessary to work -one pattern. Example: multiple of 4 sts would mean any number divisible -by 4 or 12, 16, 24 sts, etc. A multiple of 4 plus 2 would be 14, 18, 26 -sts, etc., or any number that has 2 more sts after dividing by 4. - - - NEEDLE TYPES - -STRAIGHT NEEDLES ... are used when working back and forth in rows. They -come in lengths of 10, 12, and 14 inches and sizes O-1-2-3, etc. The -larger the number, the thicker the needle. - -DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES ... come in sets of 4 or 5. They are used for -socks, mittens and any articles made in rounds. - -CIRCULAR NEEDLES ... are used in making skirts, or parts of garments -when a seam is not desired; also in completing a large doily or a round -tablecloth. - -Directions give the size and type needle required and it is not -advisable to change the size unless it is necessary in order to obtain -the correct gauge. - -CABLE NEEDLES ... are short with a bend in the center to hold sts from -slipping off. They are available in thin or thick size for the different -yarns. A short double pointed needle may also be used. It is a good idea -after placing sts on the straight needle to be used for cable to stick -needle into garment slightly, this will prevent sts from slipping off -needle. - -STITCH HOLDERS ... are used to hold sts to be used later. Example: sts -at back of neck or when all sts are cast on and worked to armholes, then -divided for front and back. The stitch holders can be purchased or a -safety pin or length of yarn may be used. - -STITCH COUNTERS ... usually placed on knitting needles. They have a dial -and after working a row, turn the dial to the next number. - -BOBBINS ... usually made of plastic to hold small amounts of yarn for -use in making argyle socks or the Fair Isle, Scandinavian or Ski -patterns. - -GAUGE ... The stitch gauge which appears at the beginning of all -instructions is most important to the size and fit of your garment. -Before starting, make a sample swatch of the pattern stitch with the -needles and yarn specified. If you have MORE sts than gauge use LARGER -needles. If you have LESS sts than gauge use SMALLER needles. Check your -gauge as you progress to assure a perfectly sized garment, Ill. No. 1. - - [Illustration: 1] - - - CASTING ON - -Allow about ½ inch for each st for fine yarn and 1 inch for each st for -heavy yarn. Make a slip knot on needle, Ill. No. 2. * Hold needle in -right hand, hold both lengths of yarn in left hand (see arrows) having -short end of yarn under and to outside of thumb and main length of yarn -under and to outside of forefinger, Ill. No. 3. Insert needle through -loop formed on thumb, pick up yarn on forefinger and draw through loop, -Ill. No. 4, let loop drop from thumb and tighten st on right needle with -thumb. Repeat from * leaving about ¼ inch between sts until required -number of sts have been cast on, Ill. No. 5. - - [Illustration: 2] - - [Illustration: 3] - - [Illustration: 4] - - [Illustration: 5] - - - PLAIN KNITTING - -Hold needle containing stitches in left hand. Follow arrows. * With yarn -in back of work, insert free needle from left to right in front of st, -yarn under and over point of needle and draw through st, slip stitch -just worked from left needle. Retain new stitch on right needle. Repeat -from * until all stitches are on right needle. 2nd Row and Succeeding -Rows: Place the needle holding stitches in left hand with free needle in -right hand. Insert free needle in 1st stitch and complete same as 1st -row. - - [Illustration: 6] - - [Illustration: 7] - - [Illustration: 8] - - [Illustration: 9] - - - GARTER STITCH - -K each st, K each row. - - [Illustration: 10] - - - PURLING - -Hold work same as for Knitting, but hold yarn to front of work. Follow -arrows. * Insert needle from right to left in front of st, yarn around -and in back of point of needle, draw through st having new stitch on -right needle, slip stitch off left needle. Repeat from * until all -stitches are on right needle. - - [Illustration: 11] - - [Illustration: 12] - - [Illustration: 13] - - - STOCKINETTE STITCH - -Knit 1 row, Purl 1 row when working with 2 needles. K each row when -working with a circular needle or on 3 or 4 double pointed needles. - - [Illustration: 14 Knit Side] - - [Illustration: 15 Purl Side] - - - RIBBING - -Ribbing consists of an alternate number of Knit and Purl stitches. In -Knit 2, Purl 2 ribbing the number of stitches cast on is usually -divisible by 4. 1st ROW: K 2, P 2 across row. In the next row again -start with K 2. In ribbing, the smooth sts are knitted, the sts with -rough side are purled. In binding off ribbing Knit the Knit sts and Purl -the Purl stitches. - - [Illustration: 16] - - - TO DECREASE OR NARROW - -In Knitting, Knit 2 sts together (Ill. No. 17), in Purling, Purl 2 sts -together. - - [Illustration: 17] - - - PASS SLIP STITCH OVER (P.S.S.O.) - -(another method of decreasing).... In knitting instructions p.s.s.o. -means to slip 1 st, K (or P) next st, then pass the slip st over the K -(or P) st by inserting left needle into slip st on right needle and -passing over the K st on right needle. Follow arrows in illustrations. - - [Illustration: 18] - - [Illustration: 19] - - [Illustration: 20] - - [Illustration: 21] - - - TO INCREASE - -Knit or Purl 1 st (as directions call for), but do not slip stitch from -left needle (Ill. No. 22 & 23). Knit or Purl into back of same st, then -slip stitch off needle (Ill. No. 24). - -Illustration shows a Knit increase. - - [Illustration: 22] - - [Illustration: 23] - - [Illustration: 24] - - - YARN OVER.... - -Unless otherwise instructed when knitting, bring yarn forward and over -right needle to back, K next st. When Purling bring yarn over and under -right needle and to front, P next st. The yarn over forms a loop on -needle which is worked as a stitch, it is used usually for lacy patterns -and beadings. - - [Illustration: 25 Knit] - - [Illustration: 26 Purl] - - - BIND OFF - -Do not bind off too tightly. - -Knitting: K 2 sts, * pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch: follow -arrows (Ill. 27, 28, 29), K next st, repeat from * until one stitch -remains on right needle, cut yarn and draw through last st. - -PURLING: P 2 sts, * pass 1st stitch over 2nd stitch, P next st, repeat -from * until one stitch remains on right needle, cut yarn and draw -through last st. Not illustrated. - -IN PATTERN: Either Knit or Purl st to be bound off as it would have been -worked in corresponding row of pattern, then bind off for knitting or -purling whichever pattern calls for. Not illustrated. - - [Illustration: 27] - - [Illustration: 28] - - [Illustration: 29] - - - TO SLIP A STITCH.... - -Slip one st from left needle to right needle without knitting or purling -inserting the right needle in the st as if to Knit unless otherwise -directed. When slipping the stitch leave yarn to the wrong side unless -directed otherwise. - - - PICKING UP STITCHES .... DROPPED ST ... - -In stockinette stitch pick up stitch on right side of work. Using a -crochet hook, insert hook in dropped st, draw yarn to row above through -loop forming a new loop. Continue in this manner until you reach the row -being worked being careful not to twist the sts. (Ill. No. 30). PURL sts -are picked up by inserting crochet hook through dropped st from in back -of sts. (Ill. No. 31). In GARTER STITCH alternate the two movements. -RIPPING BACK: Unravel work to within the last row of point desired. Rip -the last row a stitch at a time placing each stitch on a free needle, -preferably a finer double pointed needle, then place these sts back on -size needle you are using. Continue knitting as directed. - - [Illustration: 30] - - [Illustration: 31] - - - PICKING UP STITCHES ... - -around neck and armholes is usually done with smaller needles. Hold the -work with right side toward you and work from right to left. Insert -right needle into the first st from edge, pick up stitches (Ill. No. -32). When picking up stitches on an irregular edge be sure to pick up a -stitch in every row. Always work with the right side toward you unless -otherwise directed. - - [Illustration: 32] - - - BUTTONHOLES - -Work to the point specified. Bind off three or more stitches according -to directions and work to end of row. In the following row work to the -bound off sts and cast on the same number of stitches bound off in -previous row and complete row. (Ill. No. 33 and 34). - - [Illustration: 33] - - [Illustration: 34] - - - WEAVING TOE - -Cut yarn leaving about a 14 inch length, thread this into a darning -needle, * insert needle through first st of first needle as if knitting -and slip stitch off needle, pass through next stitch as if purling and -leave stitch on needle, draw yarn through first st of back needle as if -purling and slip stitch off needle, draw yarn through next stitch of -back needle as if knitting and leave stitch on needle, repeat from * -until all stitches have been worked, fasten neatly. - - [Illustration: {unlabelled}] - - - DUPLICATE STITCH - -This is the stitch used most often for embroidering a desired motif on a -knitted article. It is worked by: * bringing needle through center of -stitch from the wrong side to right side of work—see ill. A. Following -the outline of the knit stitch above, draw the yarn across the back of -the two strands of this stitch—see ill. A and B—return needle to the -center of the same stitch—see ill. B—and draw yarn through. Repeat from -* starting next stitch by bringing needle through center of stitch to be -duplicated—see ill. C. - - [Illustration: ILL. A] - - [Illustration: ILL. B] - - [Illustration: ILL. C] - - - CHANGING COLORS.... - -At the end of a row, tie in new color and continue in pattern. In -Scandinavian, Fair Isle or Ski patterns the additional colors are -carried on the wrong side of work. Designs of this type are usually -worked from a chart with a color code. When changing colors always twist -yarns around each other to prevent a hole. If color is carried over more -than 4 sts, the carried color should be twisted around the yarn that is -being worked to prevent loose lengths on wrong side. Twist the yarn in -following manner; pick up carried color, before knitting st in usual -manner twist over yarn that is carried. Cut colors only when you are -through with that color leaving about a 4 or 5 inch length to be -fastened later with a yarn sewing needle. If designs to be worked are -separated or only 1 design is worked in a corner of garment, use bobbins -(see page 6) to work design. - - - GENERAL INFORMATION - -Directions are given for Ladies small (size 12, Bust 32). Changes for -Ladies’ Medium (Size 14, Bust 34) and Large (Size 16, Bust 36) are given -in parentheses. Men’s small (Size and Chest 38), Medium (Size and Chest -40) and Large (Size and Chest 42) are given in bold face type. - - - CHANGING SIZES - -NOTE: When working with pattern sts ADD or SUBTRACT the multiple of sts -or repeats necessary to work one inch of gauge for size desired. - -LARGER: (1) For each size larger than given, ADD the number of sts -called for in GAUGE to make 1 inch to both back and front cast on sts. - -(2) Continue to follow directions given to armhole shaping or desired -length to armhole. Bind off 2 sts more for each size larger. Work ¼ inch -more in length. - -(3) SHAPE SHOULDERS: Bind off 2 sts more each shoulder for each size -larger. - -(4) SLEEVES: Add 2 sts more in cuff, then 2 sts more in last row of -ribbing. Bind off 2 sts more each side at underarm. - -SMALLER: (1) For each size smaller than size given, SUBTRACT the number -of sts called for in GAUGE equal to 1 inch from both front and back cast -on sts. - -(2) Continue to follow directions to armhole shaping or desired length -to armhole. Bind off 2 sts less for each size smaller. Work ¼ inch less -in length for each size smaller. - -(3) SHAPE SHOULDERS: Bind off 2 sts less for each size smaller. - -(4) SLEEVES: Subtract 4 sts at cuff and bind off 2 sts less each side at -underarm. - - - CHILD’S or IN-BETWEEN SIZE - -If child’s garment is desired or if you are not a regular size, work as -follows: - -(1) Take chest or bust measure. Divide the figure in half (half is -front, half is back). - -(2) Multiply this figure (the half of chest measure) by sts (or rows) -necessary to equal gauge. - -(3) Follow directions given, working back and front to desired length to -underarm. Work armhole shaping in proportion to directions given. Work -armhole desired length. Shape shoulder proportionately to directions -being followed. Work sleeves in proportion to added or subtracted sts. - -(4) Always have same number of rows on back and front of sweater. Work -same amount of rows for both sleeves. - - - BLOCKING AND FINISHING - -Blocking is method used to shape a garment for a “professional look”. -Steps to follow: - -1—Conceal all ends: run ends through several stitches on wrong side. If -yarn is heavy or bulky, split strand and run ends through several -stitches. - -2—Determine whether garment is to be washed. If so, wash each section -separately by hand or machine wash garment according to specific -instructions on yarn label or commercial laundering product. Most -garments stretch larger when wet. Care, therefore, should be taken in -handling wet sections. Squeeze gently in the washing, DO NOT TWIST or -WRING. Rinse thoroughly. Place in turkish towel and squeeze out excess -moisture. Place on turkish towel to dry. If sections of garment appear -to be too big, adjust sections to measure by pushing sections into -slight puckers. Puckers will disappear when sections dry. - -3—Always use the stitch gauge given as a guide for blocking. -Instructions are written for the average in any size, see page 14 for -our sizes. Any slight adjustment for individual size should be made in -the blocking. - -4—After measurements have been determined, place the sections -individually and wrong side up on a well padded surface or table. It is -sometimes helpful to draw outline on brown paper or heavy tissue paper. -With rust proof pins, pin each section to measurement spacing pins about -½ inch apart. - -5—Place a wet pressing cloth over a section. Using a rotary motion, hold -iron as close as possible to section allowing steam to penetrate, but DO -NOT at any time let iron rest on garment. Leave sections on pressing -table until thoroughly dry.... Do not hurry this process. - -6—Always bear in mind that cables and rib patterns have a tendency to -pull in or shrink back. Each section should be blocked about 2 inches -more than desired measure, but should NEVER be pressed flat. Also some -patterns are especially designed for a textured effect. They too should -NEVER be pressed flat. Never press ribbing of cuffs, waistband or -neckline. - - [Illustration: {unlabelled}] - -7—After all sections have been blocked garment is now ready for -finishing. Seams may be woven (see illustrations for weaving lengthwise -and crosswise seams) or back stitched (see illustration page 31), or by -sewing machine. To weave lengthwise seam: thread tapestry needle with a -single strand of matching yarn. Hold lengthwise edges together, right -sides up. Insert needle in center of st on right side, pass under two -rows and pull yarn through to right side. Insert needle in corresponding -row of left side, draw yarn through in same way. Work from side to side -in this manner taking care to keep seam elastic, matching rows, -patterns, stripes, etc. To weave a crosswise seam: hold crosswise edges -together. Starting at right edge, insert needle under two loops of -stitch on top section, insert needle down through center of next stitch -and up through center of next stitch on lower section. Continue in same -manner working alternately into top section and then into lower section -until seam is completed taking care to keep seam elastic and matching -patterns, etc. - -b—Back stitching: place right sides of sections to be seamed together. -Pin, keeping edges even and matching rows or patterns. With tapestry -needle and matching yarn back stitch close to edge taking care not to -draw stitches too tight and keeping seam elastic. - - [Illustration: {unlabelled}] - -c—Sewing machine: loosen tension on machine as you would for jersey or -any stretchy fabric. Place right sides together and pin. Baste seam -being careful not to draw stitches too tight. Remove pins. With matching -thread machine stitch seam. If yarn is bulky or fuzzy sew over tissue -paper. Remove paper when finished. - -8—After garment is all assembled, carefully steam seams flat and even. - - - TO SHORTEN ... - -(No hem desired). Determine length you desire; place a marker. Cut -through one st at side seam about 2 rows below marker. * Pick up cut end -and draw through several sts, cut this length close as possible to work. -This drawn length will tighten sts. After length has been cut straighten -edge taking care with loose sts. Place loose sts on free needle. Repeat -from * until row has been ripped and sts have been placed on needle. -With free needle bind off—or—attach yarn on P side, and with crochet -hook work a slip stitch (see page 30) in each st, turn. Work a slip -stitch in each st, cut yarn. If a hem is desired, allow for hem and -complete same as above. Turn hem to wrong side and tack in place. - - - TO LENGTHEN ... - -(If a sufficient amount of same dye lot is available). Cut off cast on -edge in same manner as above. Pick up loose sts and knit to length -desired. If there is a ribbing on section to be lengthened, cut into the -row above the ribbing, then add to length. If you do not have enough of -same dye lot to work garment to length desired, we suggest working a -stripe of contrasting color and finishing with same color as garment. - - - - - SNUG AND COMFORTABLE ... AND EASY TO MAKE - - - KNITTED AFGHAN - Size: 48 × 60 inches - - Materials Required: - AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED 3-4 ounce skeins each - Lime, Putty, Cinnamon, Potter Gold and Antique Gold. - 1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 8 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN - STITCH GAUGE BELOW. - Plastic Crochet Hook Size H - -GAUGE: 4 sts = 1 inch. Each block is a 12 inch square Approximate size: -48 × 60 inches. - -SEED ST BLOCK: With Lime cast on 48 sts. 1st ROW: * K 1, P 1, repeat -from * across row. 2nd ROW: * P 1, K 1, repeat from * across row. Repeat -last 2 rows for seed st pattern. Work even in pattern until block -measures 12 inches from beg. Bind off. Work 1 more block in same manner. -Then work 2 blocks in each remaining color in same manner (10 blocks). - -DOUBLE SEED ST BLOCK: With Lime cast on 48 sts. 1st and 2nd ROWS: * K 2, -P 2, repeat from * across row. 3rd and 4th ROWS: * P 2, K 2, repeat from -* across row. Repeat these 4 rows for double seed st pattern. Work even -until block measures 12 inches from beg. Bind off. Work 1 more block in -same manner. Then work 2 blocks in each remaining color in same manner. - -FINISHING: With matching color work a row of s c all around each block -working 3 s c in each corner, 1 s c in each st across lower and top -edges (46 s c), 1 s c in every other row across sides (39 s c) (S c: -insert hook in st, pull yarn through, y o hook and pull through 2 -loops). Weave 5 × 4 blocks tog through loop in back of each s c having -the seed st blocks in the 1st and 3rd rows and the double seed st blocks -in the 2nd and 4th rows arranging colors as follows: 1st ROW: Putty, -Cinnamon, Antique Gold, Potter Gold and Lime. 2nd ROW: Lime, Potter -Gold, Putty, Antique Gold and Cinnamon. 3rd ROW: Potter Gold, Antique -Gold, Lime, Cinnamon and Putty. 4th ROW: Cinnamon, Putty, Potter Gold, -Lime and Antique Gold. - -FRINGE: Wind all colors over a 3 inch cardboard, cut one end. Matching -colors to blocks, take 2 strands, double in half and with crochet hook -loop through every other st all around afghan. - - [Illustration: {afghan}] - - - - - FIVE FANCY STITCHES—LOOK HARD TO DO—BUT EASY TO MAKE - - - Pattern No. 1 - -Cast on 35 sts. 1st ROW: K across row. 2nd ROW: K 1, * yarn in back of -work, sl 1 as if to P, K 1, repeat from * across row. 3rd ROW: K 1, * -yarn to front, sl 1 as if to P, K 1, repeat from * across row. 4th ROW: -K across row. Repeat these 4 rows for pattern. - - [Illustration: {unlabelled}] - - - Pattern No. 2 - -Cast on 34 sts. 1st ROW: K 2, * Y O, sl 1, K 2 tog, p.s.s.o., Y O, K 3, -repeat from * across row ending with K last 2 sts. 2nd ROW: P across -row. 3rd ROW: K 5, * Y O, sl 1, K 2 tog, p.s.s.o., Y O, K 3, repeat from -* across row ending with Y O, K 2. 4th ROW: P across row. Repeat these 4 -rows for pattern. - - [Illustration: {unlabelled}] - - - Pattern No. 3 - -Cast on 36 sts. 1st ROW: * K 2, P 2, repeat from * across row. Repeat -1st row 7 times. 9th, 10th, 11th and 12th ROWS: K across each row. -Repeat these 12 rows for pattern. - - [Illustration: {unlabelled}] - - - Pattern No. 4 - -Cast on 35 sts. 1st ROW: K 3, P 3, K 6, P 3, K 5, P 3, K 6, P 3, K 3. -2nd ROW: P 3, K 3, P 6, K 3, P 5, K 3, P 6, K 3, P 3. Repeat last 2 rows -3 times. 9th ROW: K 3, P 3, sl next 3 sts on d p n and hold in front of -work, K next 3 sts, K 3 sts from d p n (cable twist), P 3, K 5, P 3, -cable twist, P 3, K 3. 10th ROW: Repeat 2nd row. NEXT 8 ROWS: Repeat 1st -and 2nd rows 4 times. Repeat from 9th row for pattern. - - [Illustration: {unlabelled}] - - - Pattern No. 5 - -Cast on 36 sts. 1st and 3rd ROWS: K 4, * P 4, K 4, repeat from * 3 -times. 2nd and 4th ROWS: P 4, * K 4, P 4, repeat from * 3 times. 5th and -7th ROWS: P 4, * K 4, P 4, repeat from * 3 times. 6th and 8th ROWS: K 4, -* P 4, K 4, repeat from * 3 times. Repeat these 8 rows 7 times. - - [Illustration: {unlabelled}] - - - - - PLAIN SOCKS FOR A GO-GO GUY - - - [Illustration: {sock}] - - Materials Required: - AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” NYLON or “DAWN” DE LUXE FINGERING YARN - 3 ounces Sand - 1 Set Double Pointed Knitting Needles No. 1 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH - WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW. - -GAUGE: 8 sts = 1 inch. - -NOTE: For reinforcing toes (and heels) combine 1 strand of “Dawn” Nylon -Reinforcing Yarn, Article N-7 with yarn and knit per instructions. - -Cast on 72 sts, divide sts on 3 needles (24 sts on each needle), join. -Place a marker at beginning of round. Work in ribbing of K 2, P 2 for 2½ -inches. Change to stockinette st (K each round), work even until sock -measures 8 inches from beg. HEEL: At beg of round divide sts as follows: -K and sl next 18 sts on a needle, K and sl next 18 sts on another -needle. Working on remaining sts only K 1 row, P 1 row for 2½ inches -ending with a P row. START TO TURN HEEL: 1st ROW: K 20, sl 1, K 1, pass -sl st over K st (p.s.s.o.), K 1, turn. 2nd ROW: Sl 1, P 5, P 2 tog, P 1, -turn. 3rd ROW: Sl 1, K 6, sl 1, K 1, p.s.s.o., K 1, turn. 4th ROW: Sl 1, -P 7, P 2 tog, P 1, turn. Continue in the above manner until all sts have -been worked ending with a P row. Divide these sts on 2 needles. K 10 sts -on needle, pick up and K 17 sts on right side of heel (1st needle), work -across 36 sts of instep (2nd needle), pick up and K 17 sts on left side -of heel, K remaining sts of heel to this needle (3rd needle). NEXT -ROUND: Work even, then dec every other round as follows: 1st needle: K -to within 3 sts of end of needle, K 2 tog, K 1; 2nd needle: K across, -3rd needle: K 1, sl 1, K 1, p.s.s.o., K to end of round. Dec in same -manner until there are 72 sts on needles. Work even until foot measures -7½ inches or 2 inches less than desired length from center back of heel. -Decrease for Toe: 1st needle: K to within 3 sts of end of needle, K 2 -tog, K 1; 2nd needle: K 1, sl 1, K 1, p.s.s.o., work to within 3 sts of -end of same needle, K 2 tog, K 1; 3rd needle: K 1, sl 1, K 1, p.s.s.o., -work to end of round. K 1 round even. Repeat these 2 rounds until 16 sts -remain (8 sts on instep needle and 4 sts on each back needle). Sl sts of -back needles to one needle. Weave sts together following directions on -page 13. - - - MEN’S SHORT SOCKS - -Follow directions for plain socks working only 2 inches of ribbing and 4 -inches of stockinette st before starting heel. - - [Illustration: {knitter}] - - - - - DOLLS AND GUYS TWO NEEDLE MITTENS - - - [Illustration: {mitten}] - - Materials Required: - AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED 2 Ounces Ladies Small, - 3 Ounces (all remaining sizes) Canary. - 1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 5 and No. 7 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL - RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW: - -GAUGE for No. 7 Needles: 5 sts = 1 inch; 7 rows = 1 inch. - -Directions are given for ladies small size. Changes for medium and large -sizes are given in parentheses. Men’s sizes given in bold face type. - -LEFT MITTEN: With No. 5 needles cast on 28 (32, 36) 32 (36, 40) sts and -work in ribbing of K 2, P 2 for 1¾, 2 inches increasing 2 sts for men’s -small size only in last row of ribbing. Change to No. 7 needles and work -in stockinette st (K 1 row, P 1 row) for 6 (6, 8) 8 (8, 10) rows. NEXT -ROW: Start Gussett. K 13 (15, 17) 16 (17, 19) sts, inc 1 st in each of -the next 2 sts, K next 13 (15,17) 16 (17, 19) sts. NEXT ROW: P across -row. NEXT ROW: K 13 (15, 17) 16 (17, 19) sts, inc in next st, K 2, inc -in next st, K to end of row. Continue in stockinette st increasing at -Gusset every other row until there are 40 (44, 50) 46 (50, 54) sts on -needle ending with a K row. NEXT ROW: P 14 (16, 18) 16 (18, 19) sts and -place on st holder, work next 12 (12, 14) 14 (14, 16) sts for thumb, -place remaining sts on 2nd st holder. - -THUMB: Work in stockinette st until thumb measures ¼ inch less than -desired length ending with a P row. NEXT ROW: K 2 tog, K 2, repeat from -across row ending with K-O (K O, K 2 tog) K 2 tog (K 2 tog, K-O). NEXT -ROW: P across row. NEXT ROW: * K 2 tog, K 1, repeat from * across row -ending with K-O (K O, K 2) K 2 (K 2, K-O). Cut yarn and draw sts tog. -Fasten firmly. Pick up and P sts from 2nd st holder. NEXT ROW: K across -all sts including sts sts from 1st st holder. There are 28 (32, 36) 32 -(36, 38) sts on needle. Work in stockinette st until mitten measures 1 -inch less than desired length ending with a P row. NEXT ROW: * K 2 tog, -K 3, repeat from * across row ending with K 1 (K 2 tog, K 4) K 2 tog (K -4, K 1). NEXT ROW: P across row. NEXT ROW: * K 2 tog, K 2, repeat from * -across row ending with K 2 tog (K 3, K 3) K 3 (K 3, K 2 tog). NEXT ROW: -P across row. NEXT ROW: * K 2 tog, K 1, repeat from * across row ending -with K 2 (all sizes). Cut yarn leaving an 18 inch length. Thread yarn -into needle and draw sts tog. Fasten firmly. Sew thumb and side seam. - -RIGHT MITTEN: Work same as left mitten. - - [Illustration: {knitter}] - - - - - FOR THE YEARLING ... the sweater - - - SIZE: 6 months to 1 year - - Materials Required: - AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” ORLON or “DAWN” MEDIUM WEIGHT POMPADOUR - 5—1 ounce skeins Baby Pink - 1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 4 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN - STITCH GAUGE BELOW. - 2 Yds. ¼ inch Ribbon for booties and mittens - 3¼ yards ¾ inch Ribbon for hat and sweater - -GAUGE: 7 sts = 1 inch - - - SWEATER - -Working Back and Fronts at one time cast on 155 sts. 1st ROW: K 1, * P -1, K 1, repeat from * across. 2nd ROW: K 1, * P 1, K 1, repeat from * -across (seed st). Repeat last 2 rows 3 times. 9th ROW: K 1, P 1 across 6 -sts, K to within 6 sts, P 1, K 1 across last 6 sts (the 6 sts are front -borders). 10th ROW: K 1, P 1 across 6 sts, P to within 6 sts, P 1, K 1 -across last 6 sts. Repeat last 2 rows 3 times. Repeat from 1st row -twice. NEXT 8 ROWS: Work in seed st. NEXT 2 ROWS: Repeat 9th and 10th -rows. DIVIDE for FRONTS and BACK in next row. - -RIGHT FRONT: Work 6 sts in seed st, K 33, place these sts on st holder, -bind off 3 sts for Armhole, K across 74 sts for BACK (this includes 1 st -left on needle from armhole bind off), place remaining 39 sts on stitch -holder for LEFT FRONT. - -BACK: Working in seed st and stockinette stripe pattern as established -bind off 3 sts at beg of next row; then dec 1 st each side every other -row twice. Work even until armholes measure 4 inches. - -SHAPE SHOULDERS: Bind off 11 sts at beg of next 4 rows; bind off -remaining sts. - -LEFT FRONT: Sl sts from st holder; bind off 3 sts at armhole. Continue -in stripes as established dec 1 st at armhole edge every other row -twice. Work even until armhole measures 3 inches ending at front edge. -SHAPE NECK: Bind off 10 sts at beg of next row; then dec 1 st at neck -edge every other row twice. Work even until armhole measures same as -back armhole. SHAPE SHOULDER: Work same as back shoulder. - -RIGHT FRONT: Sl sts from st holder onto needle and complete to -correspond to left front reversing shaping. - -SLEEVES: Cast on 41 sts. Work 8 rows in seed st. Working remainder of -sleeve in stockinette st (K 1 row, P 1 row) inc 1 st at beg and end of -next row. Then inc 1 st each side every inch 5 times. Work even until -sleeve measures 6¾ inches. - -SHAPE CAP: Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows; then bind off 2 sts at -beg of every row until 31 sts remain. Bind off remaining sts. - -FINISHING: Sew shoulder and sleeve seams. Sew sleeves in position. - -NECK EDGE: With right side facing, starting at right front pick up 69 -sts all around neck. Work in seed st for ¾ inch; then in K 1, P 1 -ribbing for ¾ inch. Bind off in ribbing. Turn ribbing to inside and tack -in place. Finish with ribbon ties and rosettes as illustrated. - - - - - ... and easy to make hat booties and mittens - - - [Illustration: Baby set] - - - Booties - -Cast on 37 sts. Work in seed st for 8 rows. Starting with a P row, work -9 rows in stockinette st. NEXT ROW: Work beading; K 1, * Y O, K 2 tog, -repeat from * across row. NEXT ROW: P. NEXT ROW: K 24, sl remaining 13 -sts to st holder, turn, P 11, sl remaining 13 sts to st holder. Work -back and forth in stockinette st for 2 inches on 11 sts for instep, -ending with a K row. Pick up 10 sts on side of instep, K across 13 sts -from st holder; turn, P across all sts picking up 10 sts on opposite -side of instep, P across 13 sts from st holder (57 sts on needle). Work -in stockinette st for 1 inch. NEXT ROW: K 2 tog, K 22, K 2 tog, K 5, sl -1, K 1, p.s.s.o., K 22, K 2 tog. NEXT ROW: P across dec 1 st at each end -of row. NEXT ROW: K 2 tog, K 19, K 2 tog, K 5, sl 1, K 1, p.s.s.o., K -19, K 2 tog. NEXT ROW: P across dec 1 st at each end of row. NEXT ROW: K -2 tog, K 19, K 2 tog, K 5, sl 1, K 1, p.s.s.o., K 19, K 2 tog. NEXT ROW: -P across dec 1 st at each end of row. Bind off. Sew sole and back seam. -Lace ribbon through beading. - - - Mittens - -Cast on 41 sts. Work in seed st for 8 rows. NEXT ROW: P across. NEXT -ROW: Work beading same as booties. Work in stockinette until mitten -measures 3¾ inches from beg ending with a P row. NEXT ROW: K 1, * K 2 -tog, repeat from * across row. NEXT ROW: P across. Repeat last 2 rows -once, cut yarn leaving an 8 inch length. Thread yarn into needle and -draw through remaining sts. Fasten securely and sew seam. Lace ribbon -through beading. - - - Hat - -Cast on 85 sts. Work in K 1, P 1 ribbing for 1½ inches. Then work in -seed st for 1½ inches. * Work 8 rows stockinette. Work 8 rows seed st. -Repeat from * twice, cut yarn leaving about a 10 inch length. Thread -into needle and draw yarn through all sts. Sew back seam. Turn ribbing -to inside of hat and sew in position. POMPON: Wind yarn 100 times over a -2 inch cardboard. Slip off cardboard. Tie in center and cut each end. -Attach pompon to top of hat. Finish with rosettes and ribbon as -illustrated. - - [Illustration: {cap}] - - [Illustration: {booties}] - - [Illustration: {mittens}] - - [Illustration: {playing baby}] - - - - - HAPPY SWEATER DATES - - - HIS SLIPOVER - Sizes: 40, 42 and 44 - - Materials Required: - AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED 6 (6, 7) 4 ounce - skeins Cinnamon or Red - 1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 8 and No. 10 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL - RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW. - -GAUGE for No. 10 Needles: 9 sts = 2 inches - -Directions are given for size 40. Changes for sizes 42 and 44 are given -in parentheses. - -BACK: On No. 8 needles cast on 92 (96, 100) sts. Work in K 2, P 2 -ribbing for 1½ inches inc 1 st on last row of ribbing (all sizes). -Change to No. 10 needles. START PATTERN: 1st ROW: K across row. 2nd ROW: -K 1, * yarn to front, sl 1, yarn to back, K 1, repeat from * across row. -Repeat 1st and 2nd rows 3 times. 9th ROW: K across row. 10th ROW: K 2, * -yarn to front, sl 1, yarn to back, K 1, repeat from * across row ending -last repeat with K 2. Repeat 9th and 10th rows 3 times. Repeat from 1st -pattern row until back measures 15 (15½, 16) inches from beg. SHAPE -ARMHOLES: Bind off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows (all sizes); then dec 1 -st at each end every other row 3 times. Work even until armholes measure -9 (9½, 10) inches. - -SHAPE SHOULDERS: Bind off 8 sts at beg of next 4 rows (all sizes). NEXT -ROW: NECK FACING: P across row. Then work in stockinette st (P 1 row, K -1 row) for 5 rows inc 1 st at beg and end of every row. Bind off. - -FRONT: Work same as back. - -SLEEVES: On No. 8 needles cast on 48 (50, 52) sts and work in K 2, P 2 -ribbing (all sizes) for 1½ inches inc 1 st in last row of ribbing (all -sizes). Change to No. 10 needles and keeping pattern as established inc -1 st at beg and end of every 10th row until there are 71 (73, 75) sts on -needle. Work even until sleeve measures 19 (19¼, 19½) inches from beg or -length desired to underarm. SHAPE SLEEVE: Bind off 5 sts at beg of next -2 rows; then dec 1 st at beg and end of every other row until there are -33 (33, 35) sts; then bind off 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Bind off -remaining sts. - -FINISHING: Block each section. Sew shoulder, side and sleeve seams. Sew -sleeves in position. Fold neck facing to inside of sweater and tack in -position. - - - HER RAGLAN - Sizes: Small, Medium and Large - - Materials Required: - AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED 5 (5, 6) 4 ounce - skeins Watermelon - 1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 8 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN - STITCH GAUGE BELOW. - 1 Set of Double Pointed Knitting Needles No. 8. - -GAUGE: 9 sts = 2 inches; -6 rows = 1 inch - -Directions are given for small size. Changes for medium and large sizes -given in parentheses. - -BACK: Cast on 76 (80, 84) sts. 1st and 2nd ROWS: K 2, P 2 across each -row. 3rd and 4th ROWS: P 2, K 2 across each row. Repeat last 4 rows for -12 (12½, 13) inches or length desired to underarm. SHAPE RAGLAN: Dec 1 -st at beg of each row until 24 sts remain (all sizes), slip 24 sts to st -holder. - -FRONT: Work same as back. - -SLEEVES: Cast on 32 (36, 40) sts. Work in pattern for 3 inches inc 1 st -each side every inch 13 times working inc sts into established pattern, -58 (62, 66) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 17 inches or length -desired to underarm. SHAPE RAGLAN: Work same as back until 8 sts remain. -Work 1 row even (all sizes). Sl 8 sts to st holder. - -FINISHING: Steam each section lightly. Sew side and sleeve seams. Sew -sleeves in position. Dividing sts evenly, sl all sts from stitch holders -to 3 double pointed needles and work in pattern for 2 inches; then K -each row for 2 inches for neck facing. Bind off loosely. Turn neck -facing to inside and sew in place. - - [Illustration: ] - - - BASIC CROCHET - -SINGLE CROCHET: (s c) Insert hook in row or st, pick up yarn, pull -through, yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on hook. - - [Illustration: ] - -SLIP STITCH: (sl st) Insert hook in st, pick up yarn and pull through -loop on hook. - - [Illustration: ] - - - - - CLAM DIGGERS SHELL - - - [Illustration: ] - - - Sizes: Small, Medium, Large - - Materials Required: - AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED - 3 (3, 4) 4 ounce skeins Canary - 1—4 ounce skein Tangerine - 1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 9 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN - STITCH GAUGE BELOW. - Plastic Crochet Hook Size H - -GAUGE: 9 sts = 2 inches - -Directions are given for small size. Changes for medium and large sizes -are given in parentheses. - -BACK: With Canary (Main Color) cast on 73 (77, 81) sts. 1st ROW: P -across row. 2nd ROW: K across row, drop MC. 3rd and 4th ROWS: With -Tangerine (Contrasting Color) K across each row, drop CC. 5th ROW: With -MC, K 1, * yarn to back sl 1 as if to P, K 1, repeat from * across row. -6th ROW: K 1, * yarn to front, sl 1 as if to P, K 1 repeat from * across -row, drop MC. 7th and 8th ROWS: With CC K across each row, drop CC. 9th -ROW: With MC K across row. 10th ROW: P across row, drop MC. 11th and -12th ROWS: With CC K across each row, drop CC. 13th ROW: With MC K -across row. 14th ROW: P across row, drop MC. 15th and 16th ROWS: With CC -K across each row, drop CC. 17th ROW: With MC repeat 5th row. 18th ROW: -Repeat 6th row. 19th and 20th ROWS: With CC K across each row, drop CC. -21st ROW: With MC K across row. 22nd ROW: P across row. With MC repeat -from 19th to 22nd rows for pattern. Work even in pattern until back -measures 13½ inches from beg or desired length to underarm. SHAPE -ARMHOLES: Bind off 3 (4, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows; then dec 1 st at -each end every other row 4 times. Work even on 59 (61, 63) sts until -armholes measure 7 (7¼, 7½) inches from 1st bind off. Work across 12 -(13, 14) sts, bind off next 35 sts for back of neck, work across -remaining sts. NEXT ROW: Tie in another skein of yarn and working both -sides at same time dec 1 st at each side of neck edge. NEXT ROW: Work -even. NEXT ROW: Dec 1 st at each side of neck edge. NEXT 2 ROWS. SHAPE -SHOULDERS: Bind off 5 (5, 6) sts at beg of each row, bind off 5 (6, 6) -sts at beg of next 2 rows. - -FRONT: Work same as back to underarm, Shape Armholes same as back. Work -even until armholes measure 4½ (4¾, 5) inches. - -SHAPE NECK: Work across 17 (18, 19) sts, bind off next 25 sts, work -across remaining sts. NEXT ROW: Tie in another skein of yarn and working -both sides at same time dec 1 st at each side of neck edge, then dec 1 -st at each side of neck edge every other row 6 more times. Work even -until armholes measure same as back. Shape Shoulders same as back. - -FINISHING: Block each section. Sew shoulder and side seams matching -patterns. NECK EDGE: Attach MC at left shoulder and work a row of s c -all around neck edge working 1 s c in every other row on sides, 1 s c in -each bound off st across front and back, join, cut MC. Attach CC and -work 1 s c in each st, join, cut yarn. ARMHOLE EDGE: Attach MC at -underarm and work 1 s c in each bound off st at underarm and 1 s c in -every other row around armhole, join, cut yarn. NEXT ROW: Attach CC and -work 1 s c in each s c, join, cut yarn. - - - - - POM PON PONCHO - - - [Illustration: ] - - - Size: One size fits all - - Materials Required: - AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED - 2—4 ounce Skeins White - 1—4 ounce Skein each Olive Green, Canary and Watermelon. - 1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 8 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN - STITCH GAUGE BELOW. - Plastic Crochet Hook Size G - -GAUGE: 9 sts = 2 inches - -With Olive Green cast on 63 sts. 1st ROW: K. 2nd ROW: P. 3rd ROW: K, -drop Olive Green. 4th ROW: With White K. 5th ROW: P. 6th ROW: K. 7th -ROW: P, drop White. 8th ROW: With Watermelon K. 9th ROW: K. 10th ROW: P. -11th ROW: K, drop Watermelon. 12th ROW: With White K. 13th ROW: P. 14th -ROW: K. 15th ROW: P, drop White. 16th ROW: With Canary K. 17th ROW: K. -18th ROW: P. 19th ROW: K, drop Canary. 20th ROW: With White K. 21st ROW: -P. 22nd ROW: K. 23rd ROW: P, drop White. 24th ROW: With Olive Green K. -Repeat from 1st row until there are 28 colored stripes (10 Olive Green). -Bind off. - -Work a 2nd section in same manner. - -FINISHING: Working down 1 long side attach White in 1st st of Olive -Green stripe; with crochet hook work 4 s c in each White stripe down -side skipping all colored stripes to corner working the s c over all -ends of carried colors. Working across short end, work 1 s c in each st, -cut yarn. Complete other section in same manner. Block to measure 14 × -28 inches. - -Sew one short unfinished end to one long unfinished side sewing to -within the center of 14th White stripe. Finish other side in same -manner. This leaves 14 stripes on each section free for neck opening. -Attach White at neck opening and work 4 s c over each White stripe, -join. NEXT ROW: Work a sl st in each st, join cut yarn. With White work -an 18 inch ch. Attach to center of neck. Finish ends with 3 pompons as -illustrated. - -POMPONS: Wind yarn 14 times over 2 legs of a chair or any open flat -surface (28 strands). Tie with a 6 inch strand at 1¼ inch intervals, cut -between ties. Attach a pompon of matching color to each stripe -alternating colors across each Olive Green stripe. - - - - - PRETEEN SLIPOVER - - - [Illustration: ] - - - Sizes 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 - - Materials Required: - AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4) 4 - ounce skeins Canary - 1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 8 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN - STITCH GAUGE BELOW. - -GAUGE: 5 sts = 1 inch - -Directions are given for size 4. Changes for sizes 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14 -are given in parentheses. - -BACK: Cast on 53 (59, 65, 71, 77, 83) sts. Work in seed st for 1 inch -(seed st: * K 1, P 1, repeat from * across row ending with K 1). START -PATTERN as follows: 1st ROW: K 5, * P 1, K 5, repeat from * across row. -2nd ROW: P 5, * K 1, P 5, repeat from * across row. 3rd ROW: K 3, * K 2 -tog, Y O, P 1, Y O, K 2 tog through back of sts, K 1, repeat from * -across row ending with K 2 more sts. 4th ROW: P 5, * K 1, P 5, repeat -from across row. Repeat 3rd and 4th rows for pattern. Work even in -pattern until work measures 9 (10, 11, 11½, 12, 12½) inches from beg. -SHAPE ARMHOLES: Next 2 ROWS: Bind off 6 sts at beg of each row (all -sizes) Work even in pattern until armhole measures 4½ (5, 5½, 6, 7, 7) -inches. SHAPE SHOULDERS: Bind off 6 sts at beg of next 4 rows (all -sizes), bind off remaining 17 (23, 29, 35, 41, 47) sts. - -FRONT: Work same as back. - -SLEEVES: Cast on 31 (31, 37, 43, 49, 49) sts. Work in seed st pattern -for 1 inch inc 10 sts on last row (all sizes). Work even in pattern -until sleeves measure 12 (12½, 13½, 14½, 16, 16) inches from beg, bind -off all sts. - -FINISHING: Block each section. Sew one shoulder seam. With wrong side of -work facing, pick up and K each st at neck edge across front and back. -Work in seed st pattern for 1 inch (all sizes), bind off in pattern. Sew -opposite shoulder and side of collar. Sew side seams. Sew sleeve seams -sewing seams to within 1 inch less than length at armhole edge. Sew -sleeves in position sewing the 1 inch at underarm to bound off sts. - - [Illustration: {skein of yarn}] - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Relocated material “continued on remote page” for more - conveniently-flowing text; all of page 31 appears out of sequence. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Begin to Knit, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEGIN TO KNIT *** - -***** This file should be named 61105-0.txt or 61105-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/1/1/0/61105/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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float:left; margin-left:-6em; width:6em; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt.center { margin-left:0em; text-align:center; text-indent:0; } -dl.biblio dd { margin-top:.3em; margin-left:3em; text-align:justify; font-size:90%; } -p.biblio { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -.clear { clear:both; } -p.book { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -p.review { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; font-size:80%; } -p.pcap { margin-left:0em; text-indent:0; text-align:center; margin-top:0; font-weight:bold; } -p.pcapc { margin-left:4.7em; text-indent:0em; text-align:justify; } -span.attr { font-size:80%; font-family:sans-serif; } -span.pn { display:inline-block; width:4.7em; text-align:left; margin-left:0; text-indent:0; }</style> -</head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Begin to Knit, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Begin to Knit - American Thread Co. Star Book No. 201 - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: January 5, 2020 [EBook #61105] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEGIN TO KNIT *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Begin to Knit" width="500" height="709" /> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<p class="center"><span class="ssn">AMERICAN THREAD CO. STAR BOOK No. 201</span> <span class="hst"><span class="large"><span class="ss">29¢</span></span></span></p> -<h1><span class="larger"><span class="ss"><span class="rubric">BEGIN</span>​<span class="green">TO</span>​<span class="blue">KNIT</span></span></span></h1> -<p class="center"><span class="ssn">ALL THE BASIC STITCHES • EASY NOVELTY STITCHES • QUICK THINGS TO MAKE</span></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_2">2</div> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/p01.jpg" alt="" width="387" height="390" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="ss"><span class="larger">SO!</span></span></p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/p01a.jpg" alt="" width="409" height="420" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="ss"><span class="larger">YOU WANT TO KNIT?</span></span></p> -</div> -<p>Well, why not when it’s so easy with -DAWN yarns and this easy-to-follow -instruction book. You’ll find plain -and fancy stitches and difficult looking -but oh, so easy to knit designs. And -when these designs are knitted with the soft -pastels or bright, gay colors of DAWN -Yarns ... Zowie, you’re in!</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p01c.jpg" alt="{uncaptioned}" width="380" height="361" /> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/p01e.jpg" alt="" width="100" height="94" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="ss"><span class="large">american thread</span> -<br /><span class="smallest">90 PARK AVENUE, NEW YORK, N.Y. 10016</span></span></p> -</div> -<p><span class="smaller">PRINTED IN U.S.A.</span></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div> -<h2><span class="small">BEGIN TO KNIT <span class="hst">CONTENTS</span></span></h2> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓐ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Abbreviations</span> <a href="#Page_4">4</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Afghan</span> <a href="#Page_16">16</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓑ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Baby Set</span> <a href="#Page_24">24</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Basic Needs</span> <a href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Bind Off</span> <a href="#Page_11">11</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Blocking & Finishing</span> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Bobbins</span> <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Buttonholes</span> <a href="#Page_12">12</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓒ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Casting On</span> <a href="#Page_7">7</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Changing Colors</span> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Crochet (Slip st & single crochet)</span> <a href="#Page_30">30</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓓ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Decrease</span> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Duplicate stitch</span> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓕ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Fancy Stitches</span> <a href="#Page_18">18</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓖ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Garter Stitch</span> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Gauge</span> <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓗ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Holders</span> <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓘ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Increase</span> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓚ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Knit</span> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓛ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Left Hand Knitting</span> <a href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Lengthen</span> <a href="#Page_31">31</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓜ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Marker</span> <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Mittens</span> <a href="#Page_22">22</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Multiple of stitches</span> <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓝ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Needle Types</span> <a href="#Page_6">6</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓟ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Picking Up Stitches</span> <a href="#Page_12">12</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Poncho</span> <a href="#Page_33">33</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">P.S.S.O.</span> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Purl</span> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓡ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Raglan sweater</span> <a href="#Page_28">28</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Ribbing</span> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓢ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Shell</span> <a href="#Page_32">32</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Shorten</span> <a href="#Page_31">31</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Size Information</span> <a href="#Page_14">14</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Slip A Stitch</span> <a href="#Page_11">11</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Slipovers</span> <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Socks</span> <a href="#Page_20">20</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Stockinette stitch</span> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓦ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Washing</span> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Weaving Toe</span> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Weaving Seams</span> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Winding Wool</span> <a href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="indexlr"> -<dt class="center b">Ⓨ</dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Yarn Over</span> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></dt> -<dt><span class="jl">Yarns</span> <a href="#Page_5">5</a></dt> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_4">4</div> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="147" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="large"><span class="ss">TALK OF THE TRADE</span></span></p> -</div> -<table class="center"> -<tr class="th"><th colspan="2">ABBREVIATIONS</th></tr> -<tr><td class="l">K </td><td class="l">Knit</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">P </td><td class="l">Purl</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">St(s) </td><td class="l">Stitch(es)</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">YO </td><td class="l">Yarn Over</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Dec. </td><td class="l">Decrease</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Inc. </td><td class="l">Increase</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Tog. </td><td class="l">Together</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Rnd. </td><td class="l">Round</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">P.s.s.o. </td><td class="l">Pass slip st over st</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">dpn </td><td class="l">Double pointed needle</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">K-O </td><td class="l">Do not work st, row or round</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Beg. </td><td class="l">Beginning</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Bet. </td><td class="l">Between</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">* </td><td class="l">an asterisk. This indicates that the instructions following are to be repeated across row or for the number of stitches or times specified.</td></tr> -</table> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p02a.jpg" alt="{knitters}" width="500" height="335" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div> -<h2 id="c1"><span class="small">BASIC NEEDS AND KNOW HOW....</span></h2> -<p><b>YARNS</b>: Yarns vary in size, twist -and texture. Use the “<b>Dawn</b>” Yarn -indicated in the directions as only -an experienced expert knitter -knows how to allow for the difference -when a substitution is made. -It is also very important to purchase -all the yarn needed at one -time as different dye lots frequently -have different shades of -color.</p> -<p>When you purchase your yarn always -check the dye lot number to -make certain they are all the same. -It is much wiser to purchase a little -extra yarn than to try and -match the dye lot after your garment -is finished. Though the color -may look the same in the skein -more often than not the difference -will be seen in the finished work. -The “ply” of yarn means the number -of strands twisted together. -This can be seen by taking the end -of the yarn and untwisting.</p> -<h3 id="c2">FUNDAMENTALS & SOME TIPS</h3> -<p>Learn the basic stitches. There are -only three: Knit, Purl and slip. All -the others are produced by variations -and in combination with yarn -overs. See <a href="#Page_10">page 10</a>.</p> -<p>Practice first with heavy yarn and -thick needles. Study the stitch and -the position it takes on the needle. -Follow arrows in illustration. Learn -to recognize when it is wrong. -Watch the yarn to see where each -loop of the stitch begins and ends. -If you lay your knitting aside for -a few days or longer, always rip -back a few rows before starting -again. This will prevent an uneven -row. See <a href="#Page_12">page 12</a> for ripping back.</p> -<p><b>Parentheses</b> in our instructions are -used for an explanation of a st, a -certain section of a garment, or -change of sts for change of size. -A <b>ROW</b> is once across the needle. -A <b>RIDGE</b> is 2 rows, back and forth. -<b>WORK EVEN</b>, means to continue -in pattern st keeping the continuity -of the design.</p> -<p>Always <b>MEASURE</b> straight up and -down unless otherwise stated.</p> -<h3 id="c3">WINDING WOOL</h3> -<p>Winding the wool correctly is important. -Never wind wool tightly -as this stretches it. Wind several -strands around fingers, slip these -from fingers. Over these strands, -in opposite direction, wind a few -more strands wrapping yarn -around fingers and ball. Continue -in this manner, always winding -over fingers and in opposite direction -from last winding.</p> -<p><b>LEFT HAND KNITTING</b>: Follow -the instructions but change your -copy to read left hand where it -says “right hand” and vice versa. -Use a mirror to study diagrams and -charts. This will reverse the image -for you.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div> -<p><b>JOINING YARNS</b> ... If possible, -join the new yarn with a knot at -the beginning of a row. If this cannot -be done, work next st with new -yarn leaving a 4 inch length. Work -a few sts, tie the ends firmly and -with a yarn needle weave ends -into work.</p> -<p><b>MARKER</b> ... This term is used -whenever it is important that a -certain point is to be marked. Example: -increase, decrease, beginning -of a row or round, buttonholes, -center st, etc. To make a -marker of yarn, use a different -color; make a slip knot leaving -ends about 2 inches in length. -Place on needle as directed. Slip -marker off one needle to the other -needle in each successive round.</p> -<p><b>MULTIPLE OF STS</b> ... This term -is used generally at beginning of -directions and means that a certain -multiple of sts is necessary to -work one pattern. Example: multiple -of 4 sts would mean any number -divisible by 4 or 12, 16, 24 sts, -etc. A multiple of 4 plus 2 would -be 14, 18, 26 sts, etc., or any number -that has 2 more sts after dividing -by 4.</p> -<h3 id="c4">NEEDLE TYPES</h3> -<p><b>STRAIGHT NEEDLES</b> ... are used -when working back and forth in -rows. They come in lengths of 10, -12, and 14 inches and sizes O-1-2-3, -etc. The larger the number, -the thicker the needle.</p> -<p><b>DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES</b> ... -come in sets of 4 or 5. They are -used for socks, mittens and any -articles made in rounds.</p> -<p><b>CIRCULAR NEEDLES</b> ... are used -in making skirts, or parts of garments -when a seam is not desired; -also in completing a large doily or -a round tablecloth.</p> -<p><b>Directions</b> give the size and type -needle required and it is not advisable -to change the size unless -it is necessary in order to obtain -the correct gauge.</p> -<p><b>CABLE NEEDLES</b> ... are short -with a bend in the center to hold -sts from slipping off. They are -available in thin or thick size for -the different yarns. A short double -pointed needle may also be -used. It is a good idea after placing -sts on the straight needle to be -used for cable to stick needle into -garment slightly, this will prevent -sts from slipping off needle.</p> -<p><b>STITCH HOLDERS</b> ... are used to -hold sts to be used later. Example: -sts at back of neck or when all sts -are cast on and worked to armholes, -then divided for front and -back. The stitch holders can be -purchased or a safety pin or length -of yarn may be used.</p> -<p><b>STITCH COUNTERS</b> ... usually -placed on knitting needles. They -have a dial and after working a -row, turn the dial to the next number.</p> -<p><b>BOBBINS</b> ... usually made of -plastic to hold small amounts of -yarn for use in making argyle socks -or the Fair Isle, Scandinavian or -Ski patterns.</p> -<p><b>GAUGE</b> ... The stitch gauge which -<span class="pb" id="Page_7">7</span> -appears at the beginning of all instructions -is most important to -the size and fit of your garment. -Before starting, make a sample -swatch of the pattern stitch with -the needles and yarn specified. If -you have MORE sts than gauge -use LARGER needles. If you have -LESS sts than gauge use SMALLER -needles. Check your gauge as you -progress to assure a perfectly sized -garment, Ill. No. 1.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p03.jpg" alt="1" width="298" height="234" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c5">CASTING ON</h3> -<p>Allow about ½ inch for each st -for fine yarn and 1 inch for each -st for heavy yarn. Make a slip knot -on needle, Ill. No. 2. * Hold needle -in right hand, hold both lengths of -yarn in left hand (see arrows) -having short end of yarn under and -to outside of thumb and main -length of yarn under and to outside -of forefinger, Ill. No. 3. Insert -needle through loop formed on -thumb, pick up yarn on forefinger -and draw through loop, Ill. No. 4, -let loop drop from thumb and -tighten st on right needle with -thumb. Repeat from * leaving -about ¼ inch between sts until -required number of sts have been -cast on, Ill. No. 5.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p03b.jpg" alt="2" width="438" height="317" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p03c.jpg" alt="3" width="367" height="374" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p03d.jpg" alt="4" width="328" height="342" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p03e.jpg" alt="5" width="356" height="279" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_8">8</div> -<h3 id="c6">PLAIN KNITTING</h3> -<p>Hold needle containing stitches in -left hand. Follow arrows. * With -yarn in back of work, insert free -needle from left to right in front -of st, yarn under and over point of -needle and draw through st, slip -stitch just worked from left needle. -Retain new stitch on right needle. -Repeat from * until all stitches -are on right needle. <b>2nd Row and -Succeeding Rows</b>: Place the needle -holding stitches in left hand -with free needle in right hand. Insert -free needle in 1st stitch and -complete same as 1st row.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04.jpg" alt="6" width="482" height="294" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04a.jpg" alt="7" width="356" height="174" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04d.jpg" alt="8" width="351" height="172" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04f.jpg" alt="9" width="404" height="196" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c7">GARTER STITCH</h3> -<p>K each st, K each row.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04k.jpg" alt="10" width="418" height="318" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c8">PURLING</h3> -<p>Hold work same as for Knitting, -but hold yarn to front of work. -Follow arrows. * Insert needle from -right to left in front of st, yarn -around and in back of point of -needle, draw through st having -new stitch on right needle, slip -stitch off left needle. Repeat -from * until all stitches are on -right needle.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04m.jpg" alt="11" width="490" height="300" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04p.jpg" alt="12" width="380" height="245" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04r.jpg" alt="13" width="390" height="197" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c9">STOCKINETTE STITCH</h3> -<p>Knit 1 row, Purl 1 row when working -with 2 needles. K each row -when working with a circular needle -or on 3 or 4 double pointed -needles.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/p04s.jpg" alt="" width="344" height="294" /> -<p class="pcap">14 Knit Side</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig6"> -<img src="images/p04t.jpg" alt="" width="337" height="280" /> -<p class="pcap">15 Purl Side</p> -</div> -<h3 id="c10">RIBBING</h3> -<p>Ribbing consists of an alternate -number of Knit and Purl stitches. -In Knit 2, Purl 2 ribbing the number -of stitches cast on is usually -divisible by 4. <b>1st ROW</b>: K 2, P 2 -across row. In the next row again -start with K 2. In ribbing, the -smooth sts are knitted, the sts with -rough side are purled. In binding -off ribbing Knit the Knit sts and -Purl the Purl stitches.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04u.jpg" alt="16" width="368" height="331" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c11">TO DECREASE OR NARROW</h3> -<p>In Knitting, Knit 2 sts together -(Ill. No. 17), in Purling, Purl 2 sts -together.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04v.jpg" alt="17" width="412" height="196" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_10">10</div> -<h3 id="c12"><b>PASS SLIP STITCH OVER (P.S.S.O.)</b></h3> -<p>(another method of -decreasing).... In knitting instructions -p.s.s.o. means to slip -1 st, K (or P) next st, then pass -the slip st over the K (or P) st by -inserting left needle into slip st on -right needle and passing over the -K st on right needle. Follow arrows -in illustrations.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05.jpg" alt="18" width="330" height="280" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05a.jpg" alt="19" width="321" height="299" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05c.jpg" alt="20" width="363" height="208" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05d.jpg" alt="21" width="394" height="200" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c13">TO INCREASE</h3> -<p>Knit or Purl 1 st (as directions call -for), but do not slip stitch from -left needle (Ill. No. 22 & 23). -Knit or Purl into back of same st, -then slip stitch off needle (Ill. -No. 24).</p> -<p>Illustration shows a Knit increase.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05e.jpg" alt="22" width="386" height="259" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05f.jpg" alt="23" width="372" height="215" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05g.jpg" alt="24" width="397" height="220" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c14"><b>YARN OVER....</b></h3> -<p>Unless otherwise -instructed when knitting, -bring yarn forward and over right -needle to back, K next st. When -Purling bring yarn over and under -right needle and to front, P next -<span class="pb" id="Page_11">11</span> -st. The yarn over forms a loop on -needle which is worked as a stitch, -it is used usually for lacy patterns -and beadings.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05h.jpg" alt="25 Knit" width="305" height="296" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05j.jpg" alt="26 Purl" width="384" height="250" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c15">BIND OFF</h3> -<p>Do not bind off too tightly.</p> -<p><b>Knitting</b>: K 2 sts, * pass the 1st -stitch over the 2nd stitch: follow -arrows (Ill. 27, 28, 29), K next st, -repeat from * until one stitch remains -on right needle, cut yarn -and draw through last st.</p> -<p><b>PURLING</b>: P 2 sts, * pass 1st stitch -over 2nd stitch, P next st, repeat -from * until one stitch remains on -right needle, cut yarn and draw -through last st. Not illustrated.</p> -<p><b>IN PATTERN</b>: Either Knit or Purl -st to be bound off as it would have -been worked in corresponding row -of pattern, then bind off for knitting -or purling whichever pattern -calls for. Not illustrated.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05k.jpg" alt="27" width="318" height="274" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05m.jpg" alt="28" width="396" height="286" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05n.jpg" alt="29" width="298" height="216" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c16">TO SLIP A STITCH....</h3> -<p>Slip one -st from left needle to right needle -without knitting or purling inserting -the right needle in the st as if -to Knit unless otherwise directed. -When slipping the stitch leave -yarn to the wrong side unless directed -otherwise.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_12">12</div> -<h3 id="c17">PICKING UP STITCHES .... DROPPED ST ...</h3> -<p>In stockinette -stitch pick up stitch on right side -of work. Using a crochet hook, insert -hook in dropped st, draw yarn -to row above through loop forming -a new loop. Continue in this manner -until you reach the row being -worked being careful not to twist -the sts. (Ill. No. 30). <b>PURL</b> sts are -picked up by inserting crochet -hook through dropped st from in -back of sts. (Ill. No. 31). In <b>GARTER -STITCH</b> alternate the two -movements. <b>RIPPING BACK</b>: -Unravel work to within the last -row of point desired. Rip the last -row a stitch at a time placing each -stitch on a free needle, preferably -a finer double pointed needle, -then place these sts back on size -needle you are using. Continue -knitting as directed.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p06.jpg" alt="30" width="391" height="288" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p06a.jpg" alt="31" width="299" height="223" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c18">PICKING UP STITCHES ...</h3> -<p>around neck and armholes is usually -done with smaller needles. -Hold the work with right side toward -you and work from right to -left. Insert right needle into the -first st from edge, pick up stitches -(Ill. No. 32). When picking up -stitches on an irregular edge be -sure to pick up a stitch in every -row. Always work with the right -side toward you unless otherwise -directed.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p06d.jpg" alt="32" width="312" height="304" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c19">BUTTONHOLES</h3> -<p>Work to the point specified. Bind -off three or more stitches according -to directions and work to end -of row. In the following row work -to the bound off sts and cast on the -same number of stitches bound off -in previous row and complete row. -(Ill. No. 33 and 34).</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p06e.jpg" alt="33" width="286" height="208" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p06f.jpg" alt="34" width="284" height="207" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div> -<h3 id="c20">WEAVING TOE</h3> -<p>Cut yarn leaving about a 14 inch -length, thread this into a darning -needle, * insert needle through -first st of first needle as if knitting -and slip stitch off needle, pass -through next stitch as if purling -and leave stitch on needle, draw -yarn through first st of back needle -as if purling and slip stitch off -needle, draw yarn through next -stitch of back needle as if knitting -and leave stitch on needle, repeat -from * until all stitches have been -worked, fasten neatly.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p06j.jpg" alt="{unlabelled}" width="466" height="322" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c21">DUPLICATE STITCH</h3> -<p>This is the stitch used most often -for embroidering a desired motif -on a knitted article. It is worked -by: * bringing needle through center -of stitch from the wrong side -to right side of work—see ill. A. -Following the outline of the knit -stitch above, draw the yarn across -the back of the two strands of this -stitch—see ill. A and B—return -needle to the center of the same -stitch—see ill. B—and draw yarn -through. Repeat from * starting -next stitch by bringing needle -through center of stitch to be duplicated—see -ill. C.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig7"> -<img src="images/p06k.jpg" alt="" width="255" height="221" /> -<p class="pcap">ILL. A</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig8"> -<img src="images/p06m.jpg" alt="" width="228" height="262" /> -<p class="pcap">ILL. B</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig9"> -<img src="images/p06n.jpg" alt="" width="286" height="215" /> -<p class="pcap">ILL. C</p> -</div> -<h3 id="c22">CHANGING COLORS....</h3> -<p>At the end of a row, tie in new color and -continue in pattern. In Scandinavian, -Fair Isle or Ski patterns the -additional colors are carried on the -wrong side of work. Designs of -this type are usually worked from -a chart with a color code. When -changing colors always twist yarns -around each other to prevent a -hole. If color is carried over more -than 4 sts, the carried color should -be twisted around the yarn that is -being worked to prevent loose -lengths on wrong side. Twist the -<span class="pb" id="Page_14">14</span> -yarn in following manner; pick up -carried color, before knitting st in -usual manner twist over yarn that -is carried. Cut colors only when -you are through with that color -leaving about a 4 or 5 inch length -to be fastened later with a yarn -sewing needle. If designs to be -worked are separated or only 1 design -is worked in a corner of garment, -use bobbins (see <a href="#Page_6">page 6</a>) -to work design.</p> -<h3 id="c23">GENERAL INFORMATION</h3> -<p>Directions are given for Ladies -small (size 12, Bust 32). Changes -for Ladies’ Medium (Size 14, Bust -34) and Large (Size 16, Bust 36) -are given in parentheses. Men’s -small (Size and Chest 38), Medium -(Size and Chest 40) and -Large (Size and Chest 42) are -given in bold face type.</p> -<h3 id="c24">CHANGING SIZES</h3> -<p><b>NOTE</b>: When working with pattern -sts ADD or SUBTRACT the -multiple of sts or repeats necessary -to work one inch of gauge for size -desired.</p> -<p><b>LARGER</b>: (1) For each size larger -than given, ADD the number of sts -called for in GAUGE to make 1 -inch to both back and front cast -on sts.</p> -<p>(2) Continue to follow directions -given to armhole shaping or -desired length to armhole. Bind off -2 sts more for each size larger. -Work ¼ inch more in length.</p> -<p>(3) <b>SHAPE SHOULDERS</b>: Bind -off 2 sts more each shoulder for -each size larger.</p> -<p>(4) <b>SLEEVES</b>: Add 2 sts more -in cuff, then 2 sts more in last -row of ribbing. Bind off 2 sts more -each side at underarm.</p> -<p><b>SMALLER</b>: (1) For each size -smaller than size given, SUBTRACT -the number of sts called -for in GAUGE equal to 1 inch from -both front and back cast on sts.</p> -<p>(2) Continue to follow directions -to armhole shaping or desired -length to armhole. Bind off 2 sts -less for each size smaller. Work -¼ inch less in length for each size -smaller.</p> -<p>(3) <b>SHAPE SHOULDERS</b>: Bind -off 2 sts less for each size smaller.</p> -<p>(4) <b>SLEEVES</b>: Subtract 4 sts at -cuff and bind off 2 sts less each -side at underarm.</p> -<h3 id="c25">CHILD’S or IN-BETWEEN SIZE</h3> -<p>If child’s garment is desired or if -you are not a regular size, work as -follows:</p> -<p>(1) Take chest or bust measure. -Divide the figure in half (half -is front, half is back).</p> -<p>(2) Multiply this figure (the -half of chest measure) by sts (or -rows) necessary to equal gauge.</p> -<p>(3) Follow directions given, -working back and front to desired -length to underarm. Work armhole -shaping in proportion to directions -given. Work armhole desired -length. Shape shoulder proportionately -to directions being -followed. Work sleeves in proportion -to added or subtracted sts.</p> -<p>(4) Always have same number -of rows on back and front of -sweater. Work same amount of -rows for both sleeves.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div> -<h3 id="c26">BLOCKING AND FINISHING</h3> -<p>Blocking is method used to shape -a garment for a “professional -look”. Steps to follow:</p> -<p><b>1</b>—Conceal all ends: run ends -through several stitches on wrong -side. If yarn is heavy or bulky, split -strand and run ends through several -stitches.</p> -<p><b>2</b>—Determine whether garment -is to be washed. If so, wash each -section separately by hand or -machine wash garment according -to specific instructions on -yarn label or commercial laundering -product. Most garments -stretch larger when wet. Care, -therefore, should be taken in handling -wet sections. Squeeze gently -in the washing, DO NOT TWIST -or WRING. Rinse thoroughly. -Place in turkish towel and squeeze -out excess moisture. Place on turkish -towel to dry. If sections of garment -appear to be too big, adjust -sections to measure by pushing -sections into slight puckers. Puckers -will disappear when sections -dry.</p> -<p><b>3</b>—Always use the stitch gauge -given as a guide for blocking. Instructions -are written for the average -in any size, see <a href="#Page_14">page 14</a> for -our sizes. Any slight adjustment -for individual size should be made -in the blocking.</p> -<p><b>4</b>—After measurements have been -determined, place the sections individually -and wrong side up on a -well padded surface or table. It is -sometimes helpful to draw outline -on brown paper or heavy tissue paper. -With rust proof pins, pin each -section to measurement spacing -pins about ½ inch apart.</p> -<p><b>5</b>—Place a wet pressing cloth over -a section. Using a rotary motion, -hold iron as close as possible to -section allowing steam to penetrate, -but DO NOT at any time let -iron rest on garment. Leave sections -on pressing table until thoroughly -dry.... Do not hurry this -process.</p> -<p><b>6</b>—Always bear in mind that -cables and rib patterns have a tendency -to pull in or shrink back. -Each section should be blocked -about 2 inches more than desired -measure, but should NEVER be -pressed flat. Also some patterns -are especially designed for a textured -effect. They too should -NEVER be pressed flat. Never -press ribbing of cuffs, waistband -or neckline.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p07.jpg" alt="{unlabelled}" width="400" height="232" /> -</div> -<p><b>7</b>—After all sections have been -blocked garment is now ready for -finishing. Seams may be woven -(see <a href="#Page_31">illustrations for weaving lengthwise and crosswise seams</a>) -or back stitched (see illustration -<a href="#Page_31">page 31</a>), or by sewing machine. -<b>To weave lengthwise seam</b>: thread -tapestry needle with a single strand -of matching yarn. Hold lengthwise -edges together, right sides up. -<span class="pb" id="Page_31">31</span> -Insert needle in center of st on -right side, pass under two rows -and pull yarn through to right -side. Insert needle in corresponding -row of left side, draw yarn -through in same way. Work from -side to side in this manner taking -care to keep seam elastic, matching -rows, patterns, stripes, etc. <b>To -weave a crosswise seam</b>: hold -crosswise edges together. Starting -at right edge, insert needle under -two loops of stitch on top section, -insert needle down through center -of next stitch and up through center -of next stitch on lower section. -Continue in same manner working -alternately into top section and -then into lower section until seam -is completed taking care to keep -seam elastic and matching patterns, -etc.</p> -<p>b—<b>Back stitching</b>: place right -sides of sections to be seamed together. -Pin, keeping edges even -and matching rows or patterns. -With tapestry needle and matching -yarn back stitch close to edge -taking care not to draw stitches -too tight and keeping seam elastic.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p07b-15c.jpg" alt="{unlabelled}" width="265" height="101" /> -</div> -<p>c—<b>Sewing machine</b>: loosen -tension on machine as you would -for jersey or any stretchy fabric. -Place right sides together and pin. -Baste seam being careful not to -draw stitches too tight. Remove -pins. With matching thread machine -stitch seam. If yarn is bulky -or fuzzy sew over tissue paper. -Remove paper when finished.</p> -<p><b>8</b>—After garment is all assembled, -carefully steam seams flat -and even.</p> -<h4>TO SHORTEN ...</h4> -<p>(No hem desired). -Determine length you desire; -place a marker. Cut through -one st at side seam about 2 rows -below marker. * Pick up cut end -and draw through several sts, cut -this length close as possible to -work. This drawn length will -tighten sts. After length has been -cut straighten edge taking care -with loose sts. Place loose sts on -free needle. Repeat from * until -row has been ripped and sts have -been placed on needle. With free -needle bind off—or—attach yarn -on P side, and with crochet hook -work a slip stitch (see <a href="#Page_30">page 30</a>) in -each st, turn. Work a slip stitch in -each st, cut yarn. If a hem is desired, -allow for hem and complete -same as above. Turn hem to wrong -side and tack in place.</p> -<h4>TO LENGTHEN ...</h4> -<p>(If a sufficient -amount of same dye lot is available). -Cut off cast on edge in same -manner as above. Pick up loose sts -and knit to length desired. If there -is a ribbing on section to be lengthened, -cut into the row above the -ribbing, then add to length. If you -do not have enough of same dye -lot to work garment to length desired, -we suggest working a stripe -of contrasting color and finishing -with same color as garment.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_16">16</div> -<h2 id="c27"><span class="small">SNUG AND COMFORTABLE ... AND EASY TO MAKE</span></h2> -<h3 id="c28">KNITTED AFGHAN -<br />Size: 48 × 60 inches</h3> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Materials Required:</dt> -<dt><b>AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED</b> 3-4 ounce skeins each Lime, Putty, Cinnamon, Potter Gold and Antique Gold.</dt> -<dt>1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 8 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW.</dt> -<dt>Plastic Crochet Hook Size H</dt></dl> -<p><b>GAUGE</b>: 4 sts = 1 inch. -Each block is a 12 inch square -Approximate size: 48 × 60 inches.</p> -<p><b>SEED ST BLOCK</b>: With Lime cast -on 48 sts. <b>1st ROW</b>: * K 1, P 1, -repeat from * across row. <b>2nd -ROW</b>: * P 1, K 1, repeat from * -across row. Repeat last 2 rows for -seed st pattern. Work even in pattern -until block measures 12 -inches from beg. Bind off. Work -1 more block in same manner. -Then work 2 blocks in each remaining -color in same manner -(10 blocks).</p> -<p><b>DOUBLE SEED ST BLOCK</b>: With -Lime cast on 48 sts. <b>1st and 2nd -ROWS</b>: * K 2, P 2, repeat from * -across row. <b>3rd and 4th ROWS</b>: -* P 2, K 2, repeat from * across -row. Repeat these 4 rows for double -seed st pattern. Work even until -block measures 12 inches from -beg. Bind off. Work 1 more block -in same manner. Then work 2 -blocks in each remaining color in -same manner.</p> -<p><b>FINISHING</b>: With matching color -work a row of s c all around each -block working 3 s c in each corner, -1 s c in each st across lower and -top edges (46 s c), 1 s c in every -other row across sides (39 s c) -(S c: insert hook in st, pull yarn -through, y o hook and pull -through 2 loops). Weave 5 × 4 -blocks tog through loop in back of -each s c having the seed st blocks -in the 1st and 3rd rows and the -double seed st blocks in the 2nd -and 4th rows arranging colors as -follows: <b>1st ROW</b>: Putty, Cinnamon, -Antique Gold, Potter Gold -and Lime. <b>2nd ROW</b>: Lime, Potter -Gold, Putty, Antique Gold and -Cinnamon. <b>3rd ROW</b>: Potter Gold, -Antique Gold, Lime, Cinnamon -and Putty. <b>4th ROW</b>: Cinnamon, -Putty, Potter Gold, Lime and Antique -Gold.</p> -<p><b>FRINGE</b>: Wind all colors over a -3 inch cardboard, cut one end. -Matching colors to blocks, take 2 -strands, double in half and with -crochet hook loop through every -other st all around afghan.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p08.jpg" alt="{afghan}" width="500" height="657" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_18">18</div> -<h2 id="c29"><span class="small">FIVE FANCY STITCHES—LOOK HARD TO DO—BUT EASY TO MAKE</span></h2> -<h3 id="c30">Pattern No. 1</h3> -<p>Cast on 35 sts. <b>1st ROW</b>: K across -row. <b>2nd ROW</b>: K 1, * yarn in -back of work, sl 1 as if to P, K 1, -repeat from * across row. <b>3rd -ROW</b>: K 1, * yarn to front, sl 1 as -if to P, K 1, repeat from * across -row. <b>4th ROW</b>: K across row. Repeat -these 4 rows for pattern.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p09.jpg" alt="{unlabelled}" width="500" height="501" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c31">Pattern No. 2</h3> -<p>Cast on 34 sts. <b>1st ROW</b>: K 2, -* Y O, sl 1, K 2 tog, p.s.s.o., Y O, -K 3, repeat from * across row ending -with K last 2 sts. <b>2nd ROW</b>: -P across row. <b>3rd ROW</b>: K 5, -* Y O, sl 1, K 2 tog, p.s.s.o., Y O, -K 3, repeat from * across row ending -with Y O, K 2. <b>4th ROW</b>: P -across row. Repeat these 4 rows -for pattern.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p09a.jpg" alt="{unlabelled}" width="500" height="497" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div> -<h3 id="c32">Pattern No. 3</h3> -<p>Cast on 36 sts. <b>1st ROW</b>: * K 2, -P 2, repeat from * across row. Repeat -1st row 7 times. <b>9th, 10th, -11th and 12th ROWS</b>: K across -each row. Repeat these 12 rows -for pattern.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p09c.jpg" alt="{unlabelled}" width="500" height="500" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c33">Pattern No. 4</h3> -<p>Cast on 35 sts. <b>1st ROW</b>: K 3, P 3, -K 6, P 3, K 5, P 3, K 6, P 3, K 3. -<b>2nd ROW</b>: P 3, K 3, P 6, K 3, P 5, -K 3, P 6, K 3, P 3. Repeat last 2 -rows 3 times. <b>9th ROW</b>: K 3, P 3, -sl next 3 sts on d p n and hold in -front of work, K next 3 sts, K 3 sts -from d p n (cable twist), P 3, K 5, -P 3, cable twist, P 3, K 3. <b>10th -ROW</b>: Repeat 2nd row. <b>NEXT 8 -ROWS</b>: Repeat 1st and 2nd rows -4 times. Repeat from 9th row for -pattern.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p09d.jpg" alt="{unlabelled}" width="500" height="486" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c34">Pattern No. 5</h3> -<p>Cast on 36 sts. <b>1st and 3rd ROWS</b>: -K 4, * P 4, K 4, repeat from * 3 -times. <b>2nd and 4th ROWS</b>: P 4, -* K 4, P 4, repeat from * 3 times. -<b>5th and 7th ROWS</b>: P 4, * K 4, -P 4, repeat from * 3 times. -<b>6th and 8th ROWS</b>: K 4, * P 4, -K 4, repeat from * 3 times. Repeat -these 8 rows 7 times.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p09e.jpg" alt="{unlabelled}" width="500" height="474" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_20">20</div> -<h2 id="c35"><span class="small">PLAIN SOCKS FOR A GO-GO GUY</span></h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p10.jpg" alt="{sock}" width="281" height="801" /> -</div> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Materials Required:</dt> -<dt><b>AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” NYLON or “DAWN” DE LUXE FINGERING YARN</b></dt> -<dt>3 ounces Sand</dt> -<dt>1 Set Double Pointed Knitting Needles No. 1 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW.</dt></dl> -<p><b>GAUGE</b>: 8 sts = 1 inch.</p> -<p><b>NOTE</b>: For reinforcing toes (and -heels) combine 1 strand of “<b>Dawn</b>” -Nylon Reinforcing Yarn, Article -N-7 with yarn and knit per instructions.</p> -<p>Cast on 72 sts, divide sts on 3 needles -(24 sts on each needle), join. -Place a marker at beginning of -round. Work in ribbing of K 2, P 2 -for 2½ inches. Change to stockinette -st (K each round), work -even until sock measures 8 inches -from beg. <b>HEEL</b>: At beg of round -divide sts as follows: K and sl next -18 sts on a needle, K and sl next -18 sts on another needle. Working -on remaining sts only K 1 row, P 1 -row for 2½ inches ending with a -P row. <b>START TO TURN HEEL</b>: -<b>1st ROW</b>: K 20, sl 1, K 1, pass sl -st over K st (p.s.s.o.), K 1, turn. -<b>2nd ROW</b>: Sl 1, P 5, P 2 tog, P 1, -turn. <b>3rd ROW</b>: Sl 1, K 6, sl 1, K 1, -p.s.s.o., K 1, turn. <b>4th ROW</b>: Sl 1, -P 7, P 2 tog, P 1, turn. Continue in -<span class="pb" id="Page_21">21</span> -the above manner until all sts have -been worked ending with a P row. -Divide these sts on 2 needles. K 10 -sts on needle, pick up and K 17 -sts on right side of heel (1st needle), -work across 36 sts of instep -(2nd needle), pick up and K 17 -sts on left side of heel, K remaining -sts of heel to this needle (3rd -needle). <b>NEXT ROUND</b>: Work -even, then dec <b>every other round</b> -as follows: 1st needle: K to within -3 sts of end of needle, K 2 tog, -K 1; 2nd needle: K across, 3rd -needle: K 1, sl 1, K 1, p.s.s.o., K to -end of round. Dec in same manner -until there are 72 sts on needles. -Work even until foot measures -7½ inches or 2 inches less than -desired length from center back -of heel. <b>Decrease for Toe</b>: 1st -needle: K to within 3 sts of end -of needle, K 2 tog, K 1; 2nd -needle: K 1, sl 1, K 1, p.s.s.o., work -to within 3 sts of end of same needle, -K 2 tog, K 1; 3rd needle: K 1, -sl 1, K 1, p.s.s.o., work to end of -round. K 1 round even. Repeat -these 2 rounds until 16 sts remain -(8 sts on instep needle and 4 sts -on each back needle). Sl sts of -back needles to one needle. Weave -sts together following directions -on page 13.</p> -<h3 id="c36">MEN’S SHORT SOCKS</h3> -<p>Follow directions for plain socks -working only 2 inches of ribbing -and 4 inches of stockinette st before -starting heel.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p10a.jpg" alt="{knitter}" width="600" height="380" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div> -<h2 id="c37"><span class="small">DOLLS AND GUYS TWO NEEDLE MITTENS</span></h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p11.jpg" alt="{mitten}" width="500" height="432" /> -</div> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Materials Required:</dt> -<dt><b>AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED</b> 2 Ounces Ladies Small, 3 Ounces (all remaining sizes) Canary.</dt> -<dt>1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 5 and No. 7 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW:</dt></dl> -<p><b>GAUGE for No. 7 Needles</b>: -5 sts = 1 inch; 7 rows = 1 inch.</p> -<p>Directions are given for ladies -small size. Changes for medium -and large sizes are given in parentheses. -Men’s sizes given in <b>bold -face</b> type.</p> -<p><b>LEFT MITTEN</b>: With No. 5 needles -cast on 28 (32, 36) <b>32</b> (<b>36</b>, -<b>40</b>) sts and work in ribbing of K 2, -P 2 for 1¾, <b>2</b> inches increasing 2 -sts for men’s small size only in last -row of ribbing. Change to No. 7 -needles and work in stockinette st -(K 1 row, P 1 row) for 6 (6, 8) -<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span> -<b>8</b> (<b>8</b>, <b>10</b>) rows. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: Start -Gussett. K 13 (15, 17) <b>16</b> (<b>17</b>, -<b>19</b>) sts, inc 1 st in each of the next -2 sts, K next 13 (15,17) <b>16</b> (<b>17</b>, -<b>19</b>) sts. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: P across -row. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: K 13 (15, 17) -<b>16</b> (<b>17</b>, <b>19</b>) sts, inc in next st, -K 2, inc in next st, K to end of row. -Continue in stockinette st increasing -at Gusset every other row until -there are 40 (44, 50) <b>46</b> (<b>50</b>, <b>54</b>) -sts on needle ending with a K row. -<b>NEXT ROW</b>: P 14 (16, 18) <b>16</b> -(<b>18</b>, <b>19</b>) sts and place on st -holder, work next 12 (12, 14) -<b>14</b> (<b>14</b>, <b>16</b>) sts for thumb, place -remaining sts on 2nd st holder.</p> -<p><b>THUMB</b>: Work in stockinette st -until thumb measures ¼ inch less -than desired length ending with a -P row. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: K 2 tog, -K 2, repeat from across row ending -with K-O (K O, K 2 tog) <b>K 2 -tog</b> (<b>K 2 tog</b>, <b>K-O</b>). <b>NEXT ROW</b>: -P across row. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: * K 2 -tog, K 1, repeat from * across row -ending with K-O (K O, K 2) <b>K 2</b> -(<b>K 2</b>, <b>K-O</b>). Cut yarn and draw sts -tog. Fasten firmly. Pick up and P -sts from 2nd st holder. <b>NEXT -ROW</b>: K across all sts including sts -sts from 1st st holder. There are -28 (32, 36) <b>32</b> (<b>36</b>, <b>38</b>) sts on -needle. Work in stockinette st until -mitten measures 1 inch less -than desired length ending with -a P row. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: * K 2 tog, -K 3, repeat from * across row ending -with K 1 (K 2 tog, K 4) <b>K 2 -tog</b> (<b>K 4</b>, <b>K 1</b>). <b>NEXT ROW</b>: P -across row. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: * K 2 -tog, K 2, repeat from * across row -ending with K 2 tog (K 3, K 3) -<b>K 3</b> (<b>K 3</b>, <b>K 2 tog</b>). <b>NEXT ROW</b>: -P across row. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: * K 2 -tog, K 1, repeat from * across row -ending with K 2 (all sizes). Cut -yarn leaving an 18 inch length. -Thread yarn into needle and draw -sts tog. Fasten firmly. Sew thumb -and side seam.</p> -<p><b>RIGHT MITTEN</b>: Work same as -left mitten.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p11a.jpg" alt="{knitter}" width="265" height="600" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div> -<h2 id="c38"><span class="small">FOR THE YEARLING ... the sweater</span></h2> -<h3 id="c39"><b>SIZE: 6 months to 1 year</b></h3> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Materials Required:</dt> -<dt><b>AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” ORLON or “DAWN” MEDIUM WEIGHT POMPADOUR</b></dt> -<dt>5—1 ounce skeins Baby Pink</dt> -<dt>1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 4 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW.</dt> -<dt>2 Yds. ¼ inch Ribbon for booties and mittens</dt> -<dt>3¼ yards ¾ inch Ribbon for hat and sweater</dt></dl> -<p><b>GAUGE</b>: 7 sts = 1 inch</p> -<h3 id="c40">SWEATER</h3> -<p>Working Back and Fronts at one -time cast on 155 sts. <b>1st ROW</b>: -K 1, * P 1, K 1, repeat from * -across. <b>2nd ROW</b>: K 1, * P 1, K 1, -repeat from * across (seed st). -Repeat last 2 rows 3 times. <b>9th -ROW</b>: K 1, P 1 across 6 sts, K to -within 6 sts, P 1, K 1 across last -6 sts (the 6 sts are front borders). -<b>10th ROW</b>: K 1, P 1 across 6 sts, -P to within 6 sts, P 1, K 1 across -last 6 sts. Repeat last 2 rows 3 -times. Repeat from 1st row twice. -<b>NEXT 8 ROWS</b>: Work in seed st. -<b>NEXT 2 ROWS</b>: Repeat 9th and -10th rows. <b>DIVIDE for FRONTS -and BACK in next row.</b></p> -<p><b>RIGHT FRONT</b>: Work 6 sts in -seed st, K 33, place these sts on -st holder, bind off 3 sts for Armhole, -K across 74 sts for BACK -(this includes 1 st left on needle -from armhole bind off), place remaining -39 sts on stitch holder -for <b>LEFT FRONT</b>.</p> -<p><b>BACK</b>: Working in seed st and -stockinette stripe pattern as established -bind off 3 sts at beg of -next row; then dec 1 st each side -every other row twice. Work even -until armholes measure 4 inches.</p> -<p><b>SHAPE SHOULDERS</b>: Bind off 11 -sts at beg of next 4 rows; bind off -remaining sts.</p> -<p><b>LEFT FRONT</b>: Sl sts from st -holder; bind off 3 sts at armhole. -Continue in stripes as established -dec 1 st at armhole edge every -other row twice. Work even until -armhole measures 3 inches ending -at front edge. <b>SHAPE NECK</b>: -Bind off 10 sts at beg of next row; -then dec 1 st at neck edge every -other row twice. Work even until -armhole measures same as back -armhole. <b>SHAPE SHOULDER</b>: -Work same as back shoulder.</p> -<p><b>RIGHT FRONT</b>: Sl sts from st -holder onto needle and complete -to correspond to left front reversing -shaping.</p> -<p><b>SLEEVES</b>: Cast on 41 sts. Work 8 -rows in seed st. Working remainder -of sleeve in stockinette st -(K 1 row, P 1 row) inc 1 st at beg -and end of next row. Then inc 1 st -each side every inch 5 times. Work -even until sleeve measures 6¾ -inches.</p> -<p><b>SHAPE CAP</b>: Bind off 3 sts at beg -of next 2 rows; then bind off 2 sts -at beg of every row until 31 sts -remain. Bind off remaining sts.</p> -<p><b>FINISHING</b>: Sew shoulder and -sleeve seams. Sew sleeves in position.</p> -<p><b>NECK EDGE</b>: With right side -facing, starting at right front -pick up 69 sts all around neck. -Work in seed st for ¾ inch; then -in K 1, P 1 ribbing for ¾ inch. -Bind off in ribbing. Turn ribbing -to inside and tack in place. Finish -with ribbon ties and rosettes as -illustrated.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div> -<h2 id="c41"><span class="small">... and easy to make hat booties and mittens</span></h2> -<div class="img" id="fig10"> -<img src="images/p12.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="540" /> -<p class="pcap">Baby set</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_26">26</div> -<h3 id="c42">Booties</h3> -<p>Cast on 37 sts. Work in seed st for -8 rows. Starting with a P row, work -9 rows in stockinette st. <b>NEXT -ROW</b>: Work beading; K 1, * Y O, -K 2 tog, repeat from * across row. -<b>NEXT ROW</b>: P. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: -K 24, sl remaining 13 sts to st -holder, turn, P 11, sl remaining 13 -sts to st holder. Work back and -forth in stockinette st for 2 inches -on 11 sts for instep, ending with -a K row. Pick up 10 sts on side of -instep, K across 13 sts from st -holder; turn, P across all sts picking -up 10 sts on opposite side -of instep, P across 13 sts from -st holder (57 sts on needle). -Work in stockinette st for 1 -inch. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: K 2 tog, -K 22, K 2 tog, K 5, sl 1, K 1, -p.s.s.o., K 22, K 2 tog. <b>NEXT -ROW</b>: P across dec 1 st at each -end of row. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: K 2 tog, -K 19, K 2 tog, K 5, sl 1, K 1, -p.s.s.o., K 19, K 2 tog. <b>NEXT -ROW</b>: P across dec 1 st at each -end of row. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: K 2 tog, -K 19, K 2 tog, K 5, sl 1, K 1, -p.s.s.o., K 19, K 2 tog. <b>NEXT -ROW</b>: P across dec 1 st at each -end of row. Bind off. Sew sole and -back seam. Lace ribbon through -beading.</p> -<h3 id="c43">Mittens</h3> -<p>Cast on 41 sts. Work in seed st -for 8 rows. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: P across. -<b>NEXT ROW</b>: Work beading same -as booties. Work in stockinette -until mitten measures 3¾ inches -from beg ending with a P row. -<b>NEXT ROW</b>: K 1, * K 2 tog, repeat -from * across row. <b>NEXT -ROW</b>: P across. Repeat last 2 rows -once, cut yarn leaving an 8 inch -length. Thread yarn into needle -and draw through remaining sts. -Fasten securely and sew seam. -Lace ribbon through beading.</p> -<h3 id="c44">Hat</h3> -<p>Cast on 85 sts. Work in K 1, P 1 -ribbing for 1½ inches. Then work -in seed st for 1½ inches. * Work -8 rows stockinette. Work 8 rows -seed st. Repeat from * twice, cut -yarn leaving about a 10 inch -length. Thread into needle and -draw yarn through all sts. Sew -back seam. Turn ribbing to inside -of hat and sew in position. <b>POMPON</b>: -Wind yarn 100 times over a -2 inch cardboard. Slip off cardboard. -Tie in center and cut each -end. Attach pompon to top of -hat. Finish with rosettes and ribbon -as illustrated.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p13.jpg" alt="{cap}" width="300" height="403" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p13b.jpg" alt="{booties}" width="300" height="348" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p13c.jpg" alt="{mittens}" width="300" height="352" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p13d.jpg" alt="{playing baby}" width="300" height="330" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_28">28</div> -<h2 id="c45"><span class="small">HAPPY SWEATER DATES</span></h2> -<h3 id="c46">HIS SLIPOVER -<br />Sizes: 40, 42 and 44</h3> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Materials Required:</dt> -<dt><b>AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED</b> 6 (6, 7) 4 ounce skeins Cinnamon or Red</dt> -<dt>1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 8 and No. 10 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW.</dt></dl> -<p><b>GAUGE</b> for No. 10 Needles: -9 sts = 2 inches</p> -<p>Directions are given for size 40. -Changes for sizes 42 and 44 are -given in parentheses.</p> -<p><b>BACK</b>: On No. 8 needles cast on -92 (96, 100) sts. Work in K 2, -P 2 ribbing for 1½ inches inc 1 st -on last row of ribbing (all sizes). -Change to No. 10 needles. <b>START -PATTERN</b>: <b>1st ROW</b>: K across -row. <b>2nd ROW</b>: K 1, * yarn to -front, sl 1, yarn to back, K 1, repeat -from * across row. Repeat -1st and 2nd rows 3 times. <b>9th -ROW</b>: K across row. <b>10th ROW</b>: -K 2, * yarn to front, sl 1, yarn to -back, K 1, repeat from * across row -ending last repeat with K 2. Repeat -9th and 10th rows 3 times. -Repeat from 1st pattern row until -back measures 15 (15½, 16) -inches from beg. <b>SHAPE ARMHOLES</b>: -Bind off 5 sts at beg of -next 2 rows (all sizes); then dec 1 -st at each end every other row 3 -times. Work even until armholes -measure 9 (9½, 10) inches.</p> -<p><b>SHAPE SHOULDERS</b>: Bind off 8 -sts at beg of next 4 rows (all -sizes). <b>NEXT ROW</b>: <b>NECK -FACING</b>: P across row. Then work -in stockinette st (P 1 row, K 1 -row) for 5 rows inc 1 st at beg -and end of every row. Bind off.</p> -<p><b>FRONT</b>: Work same as back.</p> -<p><b>SLEEVES</b>: On No. 8 needles cast -on 48 (50, 52) sts and work in -K 2, P 2 ribbing (all sizes) for -1½ inches inc 1 st in last row of -ribbing (all sizes). Change to No. -10 needles and keeping pattern as -established inc 1 st at beg and end -of every 10th row until there are 71 -(73, 75) sts on needle. Work even -until sleeve measures 19 (19¼, -19½) inches from beg or length -desired to underarm. <b>SHAPE -SLEEVE</b>: Bind off 5 sts at beg of -next 2 rows; then dec 1 st at beg -and end of every other row until -there are 33 (33, 35) sts; then -bind off 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows. -Bind off remaining sts.</p> -<p><b>FINISHING</b>: Block each section. -Sew shoulder, side and sleeve -seams. Sew sleeves in position. -Fold neck facing to inside of -sweater and tack in position.</p> -<h3 id="c47">HER RAGLAN -<br />Sizes: Small, Medium and Large</h3> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Materials Required:</dt> -<dt><b>AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED</b> 5 (5, 6) 4 ounce skeins Watermelon</dt> -<dt>1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 8 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW.</dt> -<dt>1 Set of Double Pointed Knitting Needles No. 8.</dt></dl> -<p><b>GAUGE</b>: 9 sts = 2 inches; -<br />6 rows = 1 inch</p> -<p>Directions are given for small size. -Changes for medium and large -sizes given in parentheses.</p> -<p><b>BACK</b>: Cast on 76 (80, 84) sts. -<b>1st and 2nd ROWS</b>: K 2, P 2 across -each row. <b>3rd and 4th ROWS</b>: P 2, -K 2 across each row. Repeat last -4 rows for 12 (12½, 13) inches -or length desired to underarm. -<b>SHAPE RAGLAN</b>: Dec 1 st at beg -of each row until 24 sts remain -(all sizes), slip 24 sts to st holder.</p> -<p><b>FRONT</b>: Work same as back.</p> -<p><b>SLEEVES</b>: Cast on 32 (36, 40) sts. -Work in pattern for 3 inches inc -1 st each side every inch 13 times -working inc sts into established -pattern, 58 (62, 66) sts. Work -even until sleeve measures 17 -inches or length desired to underarm. -<b>SHAPE RAGLAN</b>: Work -same as back until 8 sts remain. -Work 1 row even (all sizes). Sl -8 sts to st holder.</p> -<p><b>FINISHING</b>: Steam each section -lightly. Sew side and sleeve -seams. Sew sleeves in position. Dividing -sts evenly, sl all sts from -stitch holders to 3 double pointed -needles and work in pattern for 2 -inches; then K each row for 2 -inches for neck facing. Bind off -loosely. Turn neck facing to inside -and sew in place.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div> -<div class="img" id="fig11"> -<img src="images/p14.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="622" /> -<p class="pcap"></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_30">30</div> -<h3 id="c48">BASIC CROCHET</h3> -<p><b>SINGLE CROCHET</b>: (s c) Insert -hook in row or st, pick up yarn, -pull through, yarn over and pull -through the 2 loops on hook.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig12"> -<img src="images/p15.jpg" alt="" width="340" height="175" /> -<p class="pcap"></p> -</div> -<p><b>SLIP STITCH</b>: (sl st) Insert hook -in st, pick up yarn and pull -through loop on hook.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig13"> -<img src="images/p15a.jpg" alt="" width="309" height="161" /> -<p class="pcap"></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_32">32</div> -<h2 id="c49"><span class="small">CLAM DIGGERS SHELL</span></h2> -<div class="img" id="fig14"> -<img src="images/p16.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="462" /> -<p class="pcap"></p> -</div> -<h3 id="c50"><b>Sizes: Small, Medium, Large</b></h3> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Materials Required:</dt> -<dt><b>AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED</b></dt> -<dt>3 (3, 4) 4 ounce skeins Canary</dt> -<dt>1—4 ounce skein Tangerine</dt> -<dt>1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 9 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW.</dt> -<dt>Plastic Crochet Hook Size H</dt></dl> -<p><b>GAUGE</b>: 9 sts = 2 inches</p> -<p>Directions are given for small size. -Changes for medium and large -sizes are given in parentheses.</p> -<p><b>BACK</b>: With Canary (Main Color) -cast on 73 (77, 81) sts. <b>1st -ROW</b>: P across row. <b>2nd ROW</b>: K -across row, drop MC. <b>3rd and 4th -ROWS</b>: With Tangerine (Contrasting -Color) K across each row, -drop CC. <b>5th ROW</b>: With MC, K 1, -* yarn to back sl 1 as if to P, K 1, -repeat from * across row. <b>6th -ROW</b>: K 1, * yarn to front, sl 1 as -if to P, K 1 repeat from * across -row, drop MC. <b>7th and 8th ROWS</b>: -With CC K across each row, drop -CC. <b>9th ROW</b>: With MC K across -row. <b>10th ROW</b>: P across row, -drop MC. <b>11th and 12th ROWS</b>: -With CC K across each row, drop -CC. <b>13th ROW</b>: With MC K -across row. <b>14th ROW</b>: P across -row, drop MC. <b>15th and 16th -ROWS</b>: With CC K across each -row, drop CC. <b>17th ROW</b>: With -MC repeat 5th row. <b>18th ROW</b>: -Repeat 6th row. <b>19th and 20th -ROWS</b>: With CC K across each -row, drop CC. <b>21st ROW</b>: With -MC K across row. <b>22nd ROW</b>: P -across row. With MC repeat from -19th to 22nd rows for pattern. -Work even in pattern until back -measures 13½ inches from beg -or desired length to underarm. -<b>SHAPE ARMHOLES</b>: Bind off 3 -(4, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows; -then dec 1 st at each end every -other row 4 times. Work even on -59 (61, 63) sts until armholes -measure 7 (7¼, 7½) inches from -1st bind off. Work across 12 (13, -14) sts, bind off next 35 sts for -back of neck, work across remaining -sts. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: Tie in another -skein of yarn and working -both sides at same time dec 1 st at -each side of neck edge. <b>NEXT -ROW</b>: Work even. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: -Dec 1 st at each side of neck edge. -<b>NEXT 2 ROWS</b>. <b>SHAPE SHOULDERS</b>: -Bind off 5 (5, 6) sts at beg -of each row, bind off 5 (6, 6) sts -at beg of next 2 rows.</p> -<p><b>FRONT</b>: Work same as back to -underarm, Shape Armholes same -as back. Work even until armholes -measure 4½ (4¾, 5) inches.</p> -<p><b>SHAPE NECK</b>: Work across 17 -(18, 19) sts, bind off next 25 sts, -work across remaining sts. <b>NEXT -ROW</b>: Tie in another skein of yarn -and working both sides at same -time dec 1 st at each side of neck -edge, then dec 1 st at each side of -neck edge every other row 6 more -times. Work even until armholes -measure same as back. Shape -Shoulders same as back.</p> -<p><b>FINISHING</b>: Block each section. -Sew shoulder and side seams -matching patterns. <b>NECK EDGE</b>: -Attach MC at left shoulder and -work a row of s c all around neck -edge working 1 s c in every other -row on sides, 1 s c in each bound -off st across front and back, join, -cut MC. Attach CC and work 1 s c -in each st, join, cut yarn. <b>ARMHOLE -EDGE</b>: Attach MC at underarm -and work 1 s c in each bound -off st at underarm and 1 s c in -every other row around armhole, -join, cut yarn. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: Attach -CC and work 1 s c in each -s c, join, cut yarn.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div> -<h2 id="c51"><span class="small">POM PON PONCHO</span></h2> -<div class="img" id="fig15"> -<img src="images/p16a.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="513" /> -<p class="pcap"></p> -</div> -<h3 id="c52"><b>Size: One size fits all</b></h3> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Materials Required:</dt> -<dt><b>AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED</b></dt> -<dt>2—4 ounce Skeins White</dt> -<dt>1—4 ounce Skein each Olive Green, Canary and Watermelon.</dt> -<dt>1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 8 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW.</dt> -<dt>Plastic Crochet Hook Size G</dt></dl> -<p><b>GAUGE</b>: 9 sts = 2 inches</p> -<p>With Olive Green cast on 63 sts. -<b>1st ROW</b>: K. <b>2nd ROW</b>: P. <b>3rd -ROW</b>: K, drop Olive Green. <b>4th -ROW</b>: With White K. <b>5th ROW</b>: -P. <b>6th ROW</b>: K. <b>7th ROW</b>: P, -drop White. <b>8th ROW</b>: With Watermelon -K. <b>9th ROW</b>: K. <b>10th -ROW</b>: P. <b>11th ROW</b>: K, drop Watermelon. -<b>12th ROW</b>: With White -K. <b>13th ROW</b>: P. <b>14th ROW</b>: K. -<b>15th ROW</b>: P, drop White. <b>16th -ROW</b>: With Canary K. <b>17th -ROW</b>: K. <b>18th ROW</b>: P. <b>19th -ROW</b>: K, drop Canary. <b>20th ROW</b>: -With White K. <b>21st ROW</b>: P. -<b>22nd ROW</b>: K. <b>23rd ROW</b>: P, -drop White. <b>24th ROW</b>: With -Olive Green K. Repeat from 1st -row until there are 28 colored -stripes (10 Olive Green). Bind -off.</p> -<p>Work a 2nd section in same manner.</p> -<p><b>FINISHING</b>: Working down 1 -long side attach White in 1st st of -Olive Green stripe; with crochet -hook work 4 s c in each White -stripe down side skipping all colored -stripes to corner working the -s c over all ends of carried colors. -Working across short end, work -1 s c in each st, cut yarn. Complete -other section in same manner. -Block to measure 14 × 28 inches.</p> -<p>Sew one short unfinished end to -one long unfinished side sewing to -within the center of 14th White -stripe. Finish other side in same -manner. This leaves 14 stripes on -each section free for neck opening. -Attach White at neck opening and -work 4 s c over each White stripe, -join. <b>NEXT ROW</b>: Work a sl st in -each st, join cut yarn. With White -work an 18 inch ch. Attach to -center of neck. Finish ends with 3 -pompons as illustrated.</p> -<p><b>POMPONS</b>: Wind yarn 14 times -over 2 legs of a chair or any open -flat surface (28 strands). Tie with -a 6 inch strand at 1¼ inch intervals, -cut between ties. Attach a -pompon of matching color to each -stripe alternating colors across -each Olive Green stripe.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_34">34</div> -<h2 id="c53"><span class="small">PRETEEN SLIPOVER</span></h2> -<div class="img" id="fig16"> -<img src="images/p17.jpg" alt="" width="294" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap"></p> -</div> -<h3 id="c54"><b>Sizes 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14</b></h3> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Materials Required:</dt> -<dt><b>AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY “DAWN” KNITTING WORSTED</b> 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4) 4 ounce skeins Canary</dt> -<dt>1 Pr. Knitting Needles No. 8 OR ANY SIZE NEEDLES WHICH WILL RESULT IN STITCH GAUGE BELOW.</dt></dl> -<p><b>GAUGE</b>: 5 sts = 1 inch</p> -<p>Directions are given for size 4. -Changes for sizes 6, 8, 10, 12 and -14 are given in parentheses.</p> -<p><b>BACK</b>: Cast on 53 (59, 65, 71, -77, 83) sts. Work in seed st for -1 inch (seed st: * K 1, P 1, repeat -from * across row ending with -K 1). <b>START PATTERN</b> as follows: -<b>1st ROW</b>: K 5, * P 1, K -5, repeat from * across row. <b>2nd -ROW</b>: P 5, * K 1, P 5, repeat -from * across row. <b>3rd ROW</b>: K 3, -* K 2 tog, Y O, P 1, Y O, K 2 tog -through back of sts, K 1, repeat -from * across row ending with -K 2 more sts. <b>4th ROW</b>: P 5, * K 1, -P 5, repeat from across row. Repeat -3rd and 4th rows for pattern. -Work even in pattern until work -measures 9 (10, 11, 11½, 12, -12½) inches from beg. <b>SHAPE -ARMHOLES</b>: <b>Next 2 ROWS</b>: Bind -off 6 sts at beg of each row (all -sizes) Work even in pattern until -armhole measures 4½ (5, 5½, -6, 7, 7) inches. <b>SHAPE SHOULDERS</b>: -Bind off 6 sts at beg of -next 4 rows (all sizes), bind off -remaining 17 (23, 29, 35, 41, 47) -sts.</p> -<p><b>FRONT</b>: Work same as back.</p> -<p><b>SLEEVES</b>: Cast on 31 (31, 37, 43, -49, 49) sts. Work in seed st pattern -for 1 inch inc 10 sts on last -row (all sizes). Work even in pattern -until sleeves measure 12 -(12½, 13½, 14½, 16, 16) -inches from beg, bind off all sts.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_35">35</div> -<p><b>FINISHING</b>: Block each section. -Sew one shoulder seam. With -wrong side of work facing, pick up -and K each st at neck edge across -front and back. Work in seed st -pattern for 1 inch (all sizes), bind -off in pattern. Sew opposite shoulder -and side of collar. Sew side -seams. Sew sleeve seams sewing -seams to within 1 inch less than -length at armhole edge. Sew -sleeves in position sewing the 1 -inch at underarm to bound off sts.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p17a.jpg" alt="{skein of yarn}" width="300" height="123" /> -</div> -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> -<ul> -<li>Silently corrected a few typos.</li> -<li>Relocated material “continued on remote page” for more conveniently-flowing text; all of page 31 appears out of sequence.</li> -<li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li> -<li>In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.</li> -</ul> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Begin to Knit, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEGIN TO KNIT *** - -***** This file should be named 61105-h.htm or 61105-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/1/1/0/61105/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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