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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9a4be6 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #60343 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/60343) diff --git a/old/60343-8.txt b/old/60343-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 02ebf00..0000000 --- a/old/60343-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3508 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Doctor in France, 1917-1919, by Harold -Barclay - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: A Doctor in France, 1917-1919 - The Diary of Harold Barclay - - -Author: Harold Barclay - - - -Release Date: September 23, 2019 [eBook #60343] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A DOCTOR IN FRANCE, 1917-1919*** - - -E-text prepared by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by -Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustration. - See 60343-h.htm or 60343-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/60343/60343-h/60343-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/60343/60343-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/b2993090x - - - - - -A DOCTOR IN FRANCE - -1917 · 1919 - - -[Illustration] - - -A DOCTOR IN FRANCE -1917 · 1919 - -The Diary of - -HAROLD BARCLAY - -Lieutenant-Colonel American Expeditionary Forces - - - - - - -New York -Privately Printed -1923 - -Copyright 1923 by Helen Barclay -Printed in the United States of America - - - - -EDITOR'S NOTE - - -Harold Barclay, son of Sackett Moore and Cornelia Barclay Barclay, was -born in New York City, August 14, 1872. At Cazenovia, N.Y., his parents -had their country home and there by the beautiful Lake of Cazenovia he -spent his early years and grew up with that great love for the country -and dislike of cities which lasted all his life. - -He entered Harvard University (class of 1897) but left after the first -year as he wished to go to Europe. After traveling a few months he -went to Germany to study music. He had a beautiful voice and was a -natural musician, and so great was the encouragement he received from -his teachers that for some time he considered making music his life -work. But other counsels prevailed and he finally chose the career of a -physician--a choice which his great success fully justified. - -In 1899 he graduated from the College of Physicians and Surgeons. He -had, however, found time to serve his country in the Spanish-American -War, when he acted as medical assistant in Troop A, United States -Volunteers in Porto Rico. - -In April, 1906, he married Helen Fuller Potter, daughter of the Rev. -Dr. Eliphabet Nott Potter. - -During all these busy years, his love of music and travel continued -and always when possible his holidays were spent in European travel or -scientific studies in France or Germany. - -When in 1917 America entered the World War, Dr. Barclay received a -commission as captain and went overseas in the Roosevelt Hospital Unit. -Promoted to Major in February, 1918, he was later transferred to the -42nd (Rainbow) Division, in which he served during the heavy fighting -at Château-Thierry and St.-Mihiel. In November, 1918, he became a -Lieutenant-Colonel and was ordered home January 2, 1919. - -Dr. Barclay was traveling with his wife in France when his sudden death -occurred at Biarritz in the summer of 1922. - - - - -PART I - -_With the Roosevelt Hospital Unit_ - - - - -1917 - - -_June 30th._ At last, after six weeks' waiting and more or less -uncertainty of the time of departure, the call has come in the form of -"Confidential Order No. 5" from the War Department. Hustle into uniform -and report for duty to Major Hansell at Roosevelt Hospital. We are told -to go home and report again Sunday, July 1st. - -_July 1st._ It really looks like business. The courtyard of the -Hospital is full of enlisted men having their outfits handed out to -them. The whole dispensary is littered with coats, trousers, blankets, -etc. The men are having identification discs given them and are packing -their kits and rolling blankets. They are really a fine-looking lot -of men, and from their general appearance a good many college men are -among them. - -We are told that we are really going to sail the following morning, -and that we must go home, pack and have everything on the pier (Pier -60) before sundown that night. Max is packing my things for me--an -officer's trunk, a Gladstone bag and a canvas roll with poncho blankets -and a "Gold Medal" canvas cot. We hustle them down to Pier 60 and -leave them standing there with a feeling that they will not be seen -again, as the whole pier is a mass of motor trucks and boxes of every -description. We are to sail on the S.S. "Lapland" on the south side of -the pier. The "Baltic" has just docked and is discharging cargo at a -tremendous rate. The rattle of the winches is deafening and there are -literally hundreds of stevedores at work. - -With a silent farewell my baggage is left, and then back to the house -where Helen and I lunch and start for Mt. Kisco for the afternoon. - -One still feels terribly conscious and queer in uniform. My memory -keeps going back to the days when Rob and I enlisted for the Spanish -War, a thousand little details keep coming up that I had long -forgotten. Camp Alger and its chaos, Newport News, and the transport -"Mississippi" and all its horrors. - -_July 2nd._ The order was to assemble at the Hospital at eight a.m. I -got there at 8:20 and everything was stirring. There is really nothing -for the majority of the officers to do. Rolfe Floyd is the busy one. -The regular Army men, Major Hansell in charge, and his Adjutant, -Captain Trinder, seem most efficient. They have really handled the -whole affair wonderfully, never once getting excited and every one -asking them hundreds of foolish questions. The amateur soldier is -really a horrible thing. No one can appreciate the difference between -military and civil life who has not tried them both. - -The enlisted men leave on sight-seeing coaches at 9:30, after a -preliminary line-up in the courtyard, and cheers for Colonel Mackay and -every one connected with the outfit. The officers get down as best they -can, so I go down in Dr. Dowd's motor with Floyd, arriving on the pier -at ten a.m. - -The "Lapland" has been painted war gray and is fitted with a new -mine-sweeping device, of which more later. There was quite a crowd of -people down there to see us off. Mrs. Vanderbilt, Clarence Mackay,--and -dozens of others whom I do not know. Except for the uniforms and the -gray paint on the ship, it seems just like a summer vacation trip. Our -baggage is wonderfully handled and everything put on board in the same -manner as in peace times. We are supposed to sail at twelve sharp. The -heat is intolerable. Our staterooms are fine; No. 33, upper deck room. -My lot was first cast with the Chaplain, but I told him McWilliams and -I were old Spanish War veterans, and so he let McWilliams bunk with me. - -At one o'clock we are still at the pier. Two hundred and sixty-five, -or some such number, of cots have not appeared and our indefatigable -Quartermaster Ward will not leave without them, so sweat on, and the -poor devils who came down to the pier wait on! - -About three thirty the cots are stowed on board, the whistle sounds -long blasts, the hawsers are cast off, and the thud of the great -engines begins. The crowd rush down to the end of the pier, where many -have waited since nine thirty in the morning apparently without any -lunch. They must be nearly dead. - -The thrill of other voyages comes back so vividly to my mind as the -great ship slowly warps out into mid-channel, but I am alone now and -all is so different, yet it is hard to realize it and I cannot help -feeling it must be a great big holiday--the harbor seems so bright, gay -and peaceful. We steam at a snail's pace down the bay, and in front of -the Battery the ship seems to float for ten minutes or so, the engines -just turning over. Officers, nurses and men gaze on the tall buildings -as if they were things of stupendous beauty. Each man seems to identify -some building that he knows about, or has worked in. I know none of -them, and try to locate the Barclay Building, but cannot. - -Finally we slip by the Battery, Governors Island and into the Lower -Bay. The waters seem crowded with shipping, the Dutch and English flags -being especially in evidence. There is one converted German steamer -flying the American flag. The "Vaterland" was lying quietly at her pier. - -The glasses Mr. Bird gave me were a source of great fun in trying to -pick out the details of the ships. They practically all had stern guns, -and the Dutch ships had great spears of national colors all over their -sides. Off Tompkinsville, or rather St. George's, Staten Island, we -passed the Dreadnought "Kansas," her decks crowded with jackies in -white duck. She looked awfully spick and span. - -Just below Tompkinsville we went through the opening in the net. One -could see distinctly the large buoys that marked its position, and the -small blocks that separated it. At the opening a Monitor lay anchored -and there were several motor-boats, of about forty to sixty feet long, -with big markings of "S.P. No. so and so." It was the first real -realization of war I had felt, and it gave one quite a little thrill. - -Steaming more rapidly down the channel now and passing numerous -tugboats apparently commandeered for patrol duty. Finally the pilot -boat comes in sight and the pilot slips down the side into the little -rowboat. Full steam ahead is given and we at last feel the motion of -the long Atlantic sweep. - -_July 3rd._ First day at sea and beautiful weather! The food and -service are excellent. The whole ship is run in the usual routine -manner, and it is increasingly hard to believe that the sea is filled -with pirates bent on our destruction, or that we are on war bent. The -nurses have taken off their street uniforms and donned summer girl -clothes, which further adds to the delusion of a holiday excursion. - -At noon General Headquarters are established in the foyer on Deck -4, with typewriters clicking away. There is much issuing of order -and proclamation. McWilliams is made officer of the day and totes a -cumbersome revolver lent him by Floyd and which is the badge of office. - -Captain Trinder, the Adjutant--a bully fellow full of punch and -go--gave the officers a talk on some of the elements of their duty in -the lounge room, and was listened to with marked attention as every one -is keen about mastering the details of his work. - -Thousands of questions are asked about the most elementary details, -because we are an absolutely ignorant lot as far as the military end is -concerned. What little drill knowledge I picked up in the Troop or in -the Spanish War has absolutely vanished. - -An edict has been put out from G. H. Q. that no rum is to be sold on -board and we are reduced to ginger ale and soda water. I managed to -pinch just one cocktail the first night, and it was good. - -The afternoon dragged along. We were ordered to get out life-preservers -and carry them with us wherever we go. This is an absolute rule and we -cannot be separated from them for an instant. The officers and men walk -around with the preservers strapped to their backs, carrying them even -to meals, where one kicks them under the table between one's feet while -eating. - -The rubber suits were gotten out and fixed on. I don't believe they can -ever be adjusted in a general excitement which is bound to ensue in a -smash-up, and then besides if there is any leak in the rubber, such as -a pin prick, they would slowly fill with water. I shall depend on the -old life-preserver. - -The night is wonderful. Officers and nurses sit on deck singing. And -they sing well. A beautiful full moon. - -_July 4th._ My turn as officer of the day which, among its other -duties, entailed dragging around "Rollo" Floyd's Colt automatic, -and this blunderbuss grew heavier each hour of the day, so that by -night-time it weighed nothing less than a ton. Was given a detail of -twenty men out of which I appointed, as per instructions, two Acting -Sergeants, one day and one night; two guards were assigned to Q. M. -Ward; three to Headquarters and six to prison guard. It being a holiday -the Headquarters and Q. M. guard were dismissed at noon, the prison -guard being the only one maintained. - -Visiting our only prisoner, I found him to be a clean-cut, alert man -of apparently more than average intelligence. I made the poor devil as -comfortable as possible, but was obliged to go through his baggage in -search of any incriminatory evidence and to take any weapons away from -him. These consisted of three razors, which were turned over to H. Q. -Thompson, the prisoner, is, I believe, an actor--probably a super. He -expressed a strong desire for a bible, so sent him the Chaplain later. -He thanked me very profusely for this. I exceeded orders and allowed -him to be on deck four hours, instead of two, as the day was stifling -and his cabin not the coolest place in the world. - -At night all singing was stopped as they say sound carries for a long -distance over the water. - -The life boats have all been swung out and men assigned to them. I am -commanding officer of boat No. 21, starboard side, or the alternate No. -22, port side. Which boat is launched depends upon which side we are -struck and how the ship lists. - -Being the Fourth of July the dinner had an extra course and a few extra -British and American flags about. In the evening we assembled in the -Second Cabin for a smoker, only no one was allowed to smoke as all -ports being closed you could cut the atmosphere. However, cigars and -cigarettes were passed around and, I suppose, were used later. We had -the usual burst of song, but it was such a beautiful warm night with -a full moon that every one hurried on deck. I made my last round at -eleven p.m. and turned in for a sound night's sleep. - -_July 5th._ Another wonderful, hot day with only a mere ripple on the -ocean. I turned over the old shooting iron to Floyd, and was jolly well -glad to be rid of it. We have boat drill at ten a.m. I am captain of my -boat. The orders are that in case of torpedo we man the starboard side -first; if the ship is so listed that we cannot launch that side we take -the port side. My boats are 21 starboard and 22 alternate port. I have -three lieutenants and fifteen men besides certain members of the ship's -crew. My boat is farthest astern; we are cut off from all commands on -the bridges, and if we have to go over will practically have to work on -my own initiative. - -At four p.m. the stern gun fired three practice shots at a smoke -target. The target was allowed to float about a mile leeward. The -first shot was over, but the second and third were bull's-eyes. It was -very pretty to see the shell ricochet. It made thin splashes in the -water. In one it was markedly deflected to the left. - -No smoking on decks after nightfall, and the smoking-room is so hot -with everything locked up that one rather went without than sit -indoors. It was a beautiful moonlit night and Russell and I sat on -deck till twelve p.m., then turned in where I found McWilliams snoring -peacefully. - -_July 6th._ An uneventful day. Trinder is drilling the officers for an -hour each afternoon. The parson tried to talk philosophy with me in -the cabin. I was tired and these old sex problems bore me to death. -He has just read one volume of Havelock Ellis and heard a lecture on -psycho-analysis and is full of it. I told him the only philosophy I had -was "live and let live," and all this analysis of a man's daily action -was a damned bore as far as I was concerned. He left me in a huff. He -is just bristling with uplift, but on the whole a good fellow. - -Turned in about eleven and read "Captains Courageous" for a couple of -hours, but got dreaming about subs and could not sleep. The ship's -company on the whole seem more or less concerned, but all keep -cheerful. My only hope is, that if anything happens, I won't lose my -head. - -_July 7th._ A cold, gray day, but a very pleasant change after the past -six days of suffocation. General inspection in flannel shirts at nine -a.m., and it was cold standing around. It was the first time I had -seen the men all drawn up together and they looked well. The parson is -peeved. He would hardly speak to me this morning, but it will probably -wear off in time. This is an awfully good, tame crowd. There is none -of the old freebooter spirit we had in '98. All older is probably the -answer. But even the younger men are very quiet. - -The nurses had a party. There were shrieks of laughter until late in -the night. - -_July 8th._ No drills nor work to-day. It is cloudy and very cold. At -ten forty-five Divine Service on deck. All the enlisted men, nurses -and officers were present. The service was quiet, impressive and very -earnest. The tension is growing hourly. - -At five p.m. all the boat commanders were summoned to Colonel Winter's -room to talk over final arrangements for boat personnel. They have not -swung my boats out yet, although I have spoken several times to Trinder -about it. They say that part of the ship is so much lower that if a sea -kicked up they would have to swing them in again. I certainly have a -mean station. - -At four p.m. we officers had a voluntary drill. I got a good bath -afterwards. It may be the last for several days, as it is suggested -that no one wants to get caught with clothes off. A good many men are -sleeping partially dressed to-night. The rumor is, to-morrow we _wear_ -preservers, not _carry_ them, and the time at meals is to be reduced to -a minimum. We all sat around in the smoking-room this afternoon. The -conversation was largely on submarines and army life. Colonel Winter -tried to put a bit of cheer into things with a few stories, but it was -hard. Outside the moon is trying to struggle out, the sea is dead calm, -and the ship is bleak as perdition. No ports or ventilators are allowed -to be opened. Fortunately, it is cold. - -_July 9th._ A day really of terrible suspense. We are in the danger -zone. The life-boats have been partially lowered over the side. Every -conceivable precaution is being taken. The nurses' suits are all laid -out on deck. Every one is strung up to the breaking point. All the -enlisted men have been moved up. Many are sleeping on deck. - -About five p.m. the Captain began his zig-zag course, making -wide sweeps every five or ten minutes. There were rumors that a -torpedo-boat would turn up late this afternoon, but now, at eleven -p.m., there is nothing in sight. And with it all it is the most -beautiful night ever conceived. A little moon half on the wane came -peeping up out of a bank of clouds, about ten thirty, making its silver -path of light and doubtless silhouetting us clearly against the sky. - -Passed a small freighter lower on the horizon before dinner. Everything -is scanned with most suspicious glances and carefully shunned. Well, -here it goes for a few hours' sleep, or an attempt at it, for it's up -at the first break of dawn. - -_July 10th._ Jim woke me a little before four a.m. We went out on deck. -A beautiful morning with the sun just rising. Peck was there and Miss -Francis, the head nurse, had been sitting up all night. She looked it. -I took a few turns and then turned in till eight thirty. - -Nothing of any particular interest, except we sighted another C. P. -boat with a torpedo-boat escort. It was curious to watch her. First she -was on one side and then the other. The zigzagging gets one completely -confused as to position. - -About six this evening a speck on the horizon and we break our number -from the fore truck and in a few minutes we come in plain view of our -convoy. She is a torpedo-boat destroyer, No. 38, with the "Stars and -Stripes" flying astern. We had a feeling of great relief. We gave her a -hearty cheer. To bed now and clothes off. - -_July 11th._ Woke up and climbed out on deck at three fifteen. Light -was just breaking and every one was on the qui vive. Watched the -serpentine for a bit and then turned in again and had a good snooze -till Eddie, the bath steward, routed me out for a plunge. Last wash on -board; we go dirty to-morrow, and then a good fresh-water tub and soap. - -Our destroyer was changed during the night. The rumor is that 38 went -in assistance to some other ship that was below us in our vicinity. - -There are surprisingly few boats seen--two sailboats, a trawler, and -one large steamer is preceding us. Just after lunch a large French -dirigible circled over us. She has been hovering around since early -morning, presumably looking for subs. - -It is pack up to-night and if we have luck we shall land early in the -a.m. About eight p.m. we sight the lighthouse off the bar, but cannot -cross until high tide on account of the risk of striking a mine. - -_July 12th._ On deck a little before seven when we cross the bar and -proceed slowly up the Mersey and drop anchor before the quay where -we wait for over two hours for the boarding officers. They arrive -after a long wait. Everyone is herded in the lounge where a captain -and three corporals go over all our papers and ask us if we carry any -correspondence. - -We disembark at noon. Then a short walk through the town with Peck, -Russell, etc., hunting for a cable office. I suppose all my letters -will be censored out of shape as I wrote fully describing the voyage. - -Major Keating met us at the wharf. He is the officer in charge of -embarkation, a perfect type of the English gentleman. Lunch on ship and -are entrained for Southampton direct, much to our disgust, for every -one was hoping for at least one day in London. The nurses are held over -in Liverpool for a tea or something; every one is most courteous. - -The train was scheduled to leave at two thirty p.m., but when made up -did not have sufficient room for officers, so three-quarters of an hour -delay while another first-class carriage is hunted up, but every one -takes it very casually and Major Keating chats very pleasantly with -us all. Finally the extra carriage arrives and we are loaded. Men are -loaded third class and we go first. Everything is conducted in an -orderly fashion with an eye to comfort. But it seems so strange to be -here and traveling under these conditions and in uniform. - -The train travels slowly with numerous stops, by Crewe, Stafford, -Birmingham. At each stop all the men pile out and rush for the -refreshment counter, much to the confusion of the placid females -who try to attend to them in their leisurely fashion. They call for -American drinks which the ladies have never heard of. A struggle with -the money. I know they think we are a bunch of lunatics. - -The liquor laws are very strict and appear very sensible. They allow -the sale of liquors and beer for two hours in the middle of the day and -for one half hour in the evening. No flasks can be sold from Thursday -night till Monday, so no man can take a supply home for consumption -over Saturday and Sunday. - -At a little after midnight we reach Southampton and are met by -General Balfour and his staff. The General has charge of the port of -Southampton and is responsible for practically all the embarkation of -troops and supplies for the seat of war. - -The General conducted us personally to the Northwestern Hotel where we -had the most comfortable quarters. A cold supper was waiting and the -closing law was waived. I had a good pint of ale. It was good after a -long hard day of travel. - -The country was as wonderful as ever, but in place of the flower -gardens one saw nothing but vegetables. We came down via Oxford and -saw many stretches of the Thames. It made me homesick because of the -pleasant days spent at Maidenhead with Helen in 1914. - -Will now continue with our arrival. The poor enlisted men were marched -three and a half miles to a camp which they reached at three a.m. Floyd -and Cave accompanied them. - -_July 13th._ It was ten o'clock when I awoke. The first real night's -sleep in over a week. Wonderful beds and a good bath made everything -bright. Breakfast with Martin on war bread (whole wheat) and coffee, -with usual accompaniments of boiled milk. Sugar is doled out like gold. - -Some of the officers went up to see the men in camp, but I toddled -around the town and saw the old wall. It seems that the "Mayflower" -sailed from here, and there is a monument to Elder Brewster of Scrooby -and John Alden and others of that merry party. After that wandered -around town, bought some puttees and a penknife. Met some of the others -and lunched at the "Dolphin," a typical old-time inn. - -The food laws are really strict, but then one gets all one needs. The -meat allowance per meal is something like five ounces as it comes from -the butcher, which means about three and a half ounces when served. - -At three p.m. embarked on the tender which is to take us out to the -hospital ship which is to run us across to Havre. We first run across -to another quay where we are to pick up the nurses who are due to -arrive at five forty-five. While waiting, General Balfour came down -again in his little yellow car and showed us the medal struck off in -Germany to commemorate the sinking of the "Lusitania." On the front -side was a ship going down by the bow, with guns and aeroplanes on -hand. On the reverse side was the Cunard ticket office with a skeleton -selling tickets. The exact inscription I cannot remember, but it meant -the desire for gain on the Cunard's part was the only consideration for -selling tickets. - -The nurses arrive in a flurry of excitement, having had the time of -their lives. They were given the freedom of the theaters at Liverpool -and were cheered as they entered, and a lunch at the Savoy where they -all agreed they were wonderfully fêted. Interesting stories of our -ocean voyage were told them by Major Keating after we left. - -It seems that the destroyer No. 38 sunk a sub two hours before meeting -us. They also confirmed the report that the "Coyote" was sunk sixteen -miles ahead of us at one thirty a.m. It also seems that Pershing's -force was attacked by what is said to be a veritable sub flotilla, and -why none was sunk was just devilish good luck. - -Steam about four miles down the harbor to the "Grand Tulley Castle." -She is officially E-812, as all the boats are numbered now; the former -names having been painted over. She was formerly in the African trade. -Quarters are somewhat cramped, but she is as clean and comfortable -as one could wish. There is an operating theater on the forward main -deck, and between-decks are converted into wards. She is in command -of Major W. V. Robinson, R.A.M.C. The officers are all very agreeable -men and are doing everything to make us comfortable. No one can begin -to realize what England is doing who has not seen the activity of -Southampton. Just after we got on board two big transports passed us -loaded with troops, it was said, for Mesopotamia. - -_July 14th._ All day at anchor. No one allowed to leave the steamer. -The papers came on board in the morning. Towards sundown two more -transports leave again filled with troops. - -We all jumped overboard for a swim in the afternoon. Concert in the -evening by the men of the ship with ours. Every one seemed to have a -good time. - -The sunset was wonderful and the twilight lasted for nearly two hours. - -_July 15th._ Still at anchor with no news of our departure. Major -Robinson tried to get permission for the officers to visit Nutley -Hospital, but only succeeded in getting it for six, so the high ones -went--and said it was very interesting. - -At four p. m. weigh anchor, put out the mine-sweeper and are off, -escorted by two torpedo-boats which put out from Portsmouth. We pass -through the nets and around the Western part of the Isle of Wight. -Through the glasses Cowes looks absolutely deserted; the bath houses -are pulled back on the beach and, although it is a Sunday in midsummer, -one cannot see a child playing on the sands. This is equally true of -the beaches around Southampton, of which there are five or six. - -It is blowing a hard gale from the south. Orders are--sleep in clothes -and wear life-preservers. The run is considered dangerous. There are -many mine-sweepers at work around us. - -_July 16th._ We dock at the old Compagnie Générale Transatlantique -pier, most of which is turned into a hospital. More waiting and while -we wait a trainload of wounded arrive and are carried in litters aboard -the ship. I hear no complaint. Most of the men are smoking cigarettes. - -After several hours of cooling our heels we are told to go to the Hotel -Moderne by the French Commandant. Havre is entirely taken over by -the British. Most of the tram-cars are run by Tommies and the city is -policed by them. The men doing police duty walk in pairs, wear a red -band around their hats and have a brassard on the arm with "M. P." and -are a fine looking lot. The Moderne is an easy third-rate hotel. Am -rooming with McWilliams. - -In the early evening the Commandant calls again and tells us we are to -proceed to Vittel by a slow train. It is most disappointing as I had -hoped for a few days in Paris, especially as we had been sidetracked -from London. At the instigation of Major Bruce we proceeded to the -État Major of the Havre district, who finally agreed to telephone -to American headquarters at Paris. The answer comes that our orders -are absolute; that we were to embark at eight p. m. The train would -leave at nine p. m. and we would be approximately forty-eight hours en -route--no arrangements for sleeping or anything. The officers for which -I arrange had packages of two eggs, 400 grams of bread and 100 grams -of cheese. So we start off. A few Red Cross Frenchwomen and some men, -together with the French Commander and a file of about twelve soldiers -come down to see us off. The soldiers present arms, the Red Cross -ladies hand us a small nosegay of sweet peas, a small box of grapes is -entrusted to Henry Cave, and the train snorts out. The men go third -class, the nurses second class, officers first class, and we all go -like hogs! - -While at Havre, Russell, McWilliams, James and a few others motored -over to Étretat and saw Brewer, Darrach and his crowd. They are -delightfully situated. Saw Sally Strain and had a little chat with her. -Paul Draper was working in the outfit as an orderly. They took their -hospital over from the English who had everything working well and had -established a good precedent. - -_July 17th._ In the words of the prophet, "The hell of a night." We -tried to doctor the seats so one could lie down, but your head would -always come out lower than your feet and there was little use in -trying. About two hours was the average, with a cold-gray-dawn feeling -as if one had been on an all-night debauch. There was no use trying to -wash, because there was nothing to wash in or with. - -We opened the emergency package and had breakfast of hard-boiled eggs, -black bread and cheese. About six a. m. we pulled in to St. Lazaire -Station in Paris and in ten minutes were out again. Then backing and -filling for an hour when we landed at Noisy-le-Sec, nine kilometers -from Paris. There we were told by the lieutenant we had missed our -connection and would remain till two thirty. - -Noisy-le-Sec is a poor working suburb of Paris. Just why we could -not have been left in Paris to have a comfortable breakfast is -probably unknown, except that when two alternatives are presented--a -comfortable, convenient one, or an uncomfortable, inconvenient -one--the rules of the game seem to be always to take the more -inconvenient of the two. There is apparently a lack of any definite -plan for us. - -We foraged around Noisy, got a good bath and managed, for an exorbitant -price, to obtain a fair déjeuner in a small workingman's restaurant -which was filled with military. - -As one travels through the country the results of the war are very -apparent. The countryside is deserted and only women are seen working -in the fields. It's women, boys and old men. The lovely flowers that we -formerly saw in such profusion are scarcely seen now. In spite of the -shortage of labor, however, the fields are all well planted. - -Constant trains filled with soldiers are passing northward, and at -every station we stop there are a number waiting to join their commands -or coming home on leave. During the afternoon we jogged along at about -twenty-five kilometers an hour with frequent long stops. At seven -o'clock some more brown bread and cheese. I had gotten a bottle of red -wine during our few minutes' stop in Paris which helped things along -nicely. Then about ten we settle down for our second night. - -_July 18th._ Every one woke up feeling pretty ragged. Goodness knows -how the nurses stand it as well as they have, because they stick their -noses out in the cold gray dawn looking pretty fresh. - -At Troyes last night some Canadian nurses came down to meet the train. -The station was simply packed with soldiers. - -Well, ten thirty a. m. and the miserable, dirty old train draws into -Vittel, and it was with some pleasure that I saw the end of the -rat-hole we had lived in for thirty-eight hours. - -Met by a French officer. They knew we were coming, but had no orders -what to do with us, so we are bundled through a deserted town to the -Hotel Vittel Palace, which is an annex of one of the larger hotels -and has been serving as a military hospital. Well, the least said -about this place the better. No towels, no toilet articles or looking -glasses. There is one bathtub at the end of a long corridor which we -all have to use. No one to clean it out. In fact, nothing is done and -the whole place, in spite of the fact it is a hospital, is filthy. -McWilliams, James, Stillman and I have one room which could hold two in -a pinch. Nowhere to store anything. The mess is horrible. It is in the -old ballroom surrounded with beds. We sit on hard benches. Breakfast is -hard bread, no butter and some horrible liquid called coffee without -sugar--worse than anything we had during the Spanish War. - -_July 20th. Vitell._ Just kicking around. No orders. There is a rumor -we are to move about twenty miles from here into barracks which are now -under construction. Anything to get out of here. - -The French are most polite. The men all salute us in the streets, -several men and women coming up and talking to us. When Russell, -James, Stillman and myself went to a neighboring hotel for a good lunch -we were given a good round of hand-clapping as we walked into the -dining-room. I shouted in return, "Vive la France." Many officers have -come up and spoken to us. I have never tried to talk French so hard in -my life and that which I do speak is simply awful, but they take it in -good part and try and help me out. - -This morning in watching the tennis I asked a Frenchman where I could -get racquets and balls. He brought up an English captain (Lucas), -who explained everything to me and insisted on introducing me to a -Frenchwoman, Madame Somebody, who, he said, played a good game, so -have a date to play with her at five p. m., consequently have rummaged -to get a pair of tennis shoes, but there is nothing big enough for -me, except a pair of dirty brown canvas sneakers, and I have to wear -my long military trousers. I hate doing things when I have not the -appropriate clothes. - -I went out this afternoon trying to make some arrangement at the -different hotels for an officers' mess, but they want ten francs which -is too much as practically all the men are living on their pay. The -English do well for their men and officers. They give a good mess and, -I think, clothing allowance, for they all seem to be on Easy Street. - -Well, here goes for the tennis! - -The tennis was good fun. The two women played very well, but the -men--first one and then a younger fellow took up the game--were not -much good. - -Dined at the hotel with Russell. - -_July 21st._ Tried to get some white duck trousers to play tennis in, -but no luck, so shall have to stick to the old army ones unless I can -manage to borrow a pair. - -Captain Ward turned up just after we had finished lunch. He looked dead -beat, said he had an awful time as neither the French nor English -Government had any orders concerning him. They crossed the Channel on -a ship loaded with troops and horses. They said the French had treated -them much better than the English. - -Majors Robert Bacon and McCoy were here this morning looking over the -place. There are rumors that Pershing may make it his headquarters. - -Peck, Hansell and Trinder motored over to Contreville. They reported -that it was a smaller place and not nearly so attractive. They go to -Gondrecourt, which I understand is the Divisional Headquarters of -General Sibert. - -The order came to-day that we were to wear the belt and shoulder piece, -the same as the English officers. It will make our shabby uniform look -smarter. - -Russell and I are trying to get leave for seventy-two hours to get to -Paris. I hope it can be done as I want very much, in spite of the -expense, to see what is going on. - -Ward brought a little mongrel fox-terrier puppy with him from Havre. -My, but it made me want to see Bluffie. - -I had a wonderfully vivid dream last night. I dreamt I was back in -Cazenovia, riding old Jonnis, the horse, and that we had just been -discharged from the Spanish War, and that all this rotten business was -over. I could not imagine for some minutes where I was on awakening. -But it gives me the creeps, as the men are already making arrangements -for the winter. - -_July 22nd._ Was made mess officer and spent the whole afternoon -running around the épicier shops buying eggs, coffee, etc. Prinzen is -the chief cook. Eggs are scarce--three francs per dozen. The men were -getting pretty hungry. - -I obtained permission to go to Paris, so am leaving on the one p.m. -train with Russell. Packed my valise and am off. It is good to get -away from the crowd and to be free, even for a few hours. - -We arrive in Paris at ten p. m. There were very few taxis, but we -managed to secure one and went to the Ritz. Paris is absolutely dark; a -dim light flickers every two blocks, but the streets are so dark in the -interim that it is with difficulty you can see people approaching. At -ten as we drove down the Rue de la Paix and into the Place Vendôme it -was absolutely deserted save for two girls. This is not metaphor, but -absolute. - -After depositing our bags we groped our way along the Rue de Rivoli and -into the Place de la Concorde. Three belated private limousines sneaked -past us as if they were ashamed to be out so late. Otherwise, silence -and darkness. It was as if the hand of death had suddenly closed down -on the whole world and left one with an eerie, creepy feeling. A lone -gendarme was standing under a feeble lamp. He seemed glad to see us. I -counted eight lamps burning in the place and that was all. The change -was profound, almost terrible. I shall be glad to get to the hotel and -in my room and turn on all the lights. - -_July 23rd._ A wonderful night twixt clean, snowy white sheets, a rack -full of white clean towels and a porcelain tub all my own and hot -water. If any man with soul so dead cannot appreciate what that means, -let him follow the U. S. A. for three weeks. If he goes in the field -under canvas he is lucky, but if he is thrust in dirty hotels that have -been used as hospitals for three years, heaven help him, because no one -else will, and certainly not the U. S. A. - -Sent a note to Gabrielle Dorziat saying I was in town and asked her to -dine with me, but when I called she had gone to Épernay for a few days. -I was awfully sorry not to have seen her. - -Spent the whole morning tearing around with Russell. The Embassy, -Morgan, Harjes, American Express, etc. We went to Army Headquarters -at 21 Rue Constantin where I tried to present a letter to Colonel -Bradley, the M. O., but we found Medical Headquarters are at 10 Rue -Ste. Anne. Bradley was away, but we saw Mr. Ireland, Colonel. He is the -king-pin of the show. He gave us the depressing news that we would in -all probability be permanently stationed at Vittel. Called on Lillie -Havemeyer. She was moving to a new apartment at No. 38 Avenue Gabriel. -All was chaos, but she gave me a warm welcome and asked me to lunch -with her at Laurens the next day. Later I went to see Henry Clews. - -Henry has a charming hôtel with a lovely garden. A fountain with ducks -and goldfish. A nice sleepy cat was watching the pigeons, and a bulldog -was watching the cat. The peace and quiet were wonderful. We had tea in -the garden. Henry was very quiet and just what his view of the whole -situation is it was hard to gather. He was very hospitable and asked -me to make my headquarters there any time I was in Paris. - -We dined at the Tavern Royal with a quart of sweet champagne. But the -best of all was a couple of cocktails at Maxim's beforehand. The Maître -d'Hôtel was very loquacious and told us most impressively that America -had come in none too soon because France was at the end of her tether. -This is what we heard everywhere. - -Paris by day appears on the surface very much as when we left in -September, 1914. The streets are crowded with uniforms of every -description and every now and then an American one, but as yet they are -very much in the minority. - -_July 24th._ Lunched with Lillie Havemeyer and Freddy. The afternoon, -more errands, a lemonade at Fouquet's, and dinner with Mrs. Duryea in -the evening. A very pleasant home dinner, just four--a Miss Carrol -making the fourth. In the evening M. Robinson came in. He apparently -had the affairs of France on his shoulders. - -I left early and walked down the Champs Elysées. It was very dark. -People were sitting on the benches and strolling about. It is -practically all one can do after nine in the evening. - -_July 25th._ We left Paris in the early morning and after nine hours -of sweltering heat and dust found ourselves back in the same old -place--grimmer than ever. It was hard to get in the dirty old bed after -the clean white sheets of the Ritz, and come down to one dirty towel -till you could get another, always a matter of uncertainty. I began my -struggles with the mess again. - -Coming down on the train we met a Dr. Water with the Johns Hopkins -unit. He had been making a tour of the hospitals. He said they had come -over with the first expeditionary force and had been at St. Nazaire for -some time, and while there they had witnessed the disembarkation of -all the American troops. He estimated them at about fifty thousand. -I played head waiter at evening mess, trying to get the men who -are working as waiters licked into shape, and in consequence got -indigestion. - -_July 26th._ The mess again. Am trying to arrange prices so that we -can buy a little cheaper, but it is difficult. Excessive charging -can be brought to the attention of the authorities, but every one, I -suppose, tries to ring in a few extra sous. However, I am getting the -tradespeople to submit prices and shall buy from the cheapest. - -All the men are working at their French. It is quite funny to see -them, and their accent is something terrific. The French are very -good-natured and many of them sit in the garden and give lessons for -pure love. - -Time drags very much. - -_July 27th._ A day of absolute inactivity. There are no golf or tennis -balls, so there is absolutely nothing to do except lie about and try -and talk French. I spent the morning sitting in the garden in one of -the twenty-five-centime armchairs. A few, not more than three or four, -demi-mondaines arrived, and they are at least a little more refreshing -to look at than the old rheumatics. - -I am struggling with the food problems. The coffee we get is rotten, -in spite of the fact we buy the best. The French are a curious lot. -I tried to stimulate competitive bids on food prices, but they show -absolutely no desire or interest in obtaining our trade. In America -every tradesman in town would be after our trade; here they are -absolutely indifferent and hardly take the trouble to submit prices. - -_July 28th._ Hot as hell and nothing to do. No tennis or golf balls can -be had. Up at eight, breakfast, talk to the greasy cook, look at greasy -meat, go to greasy stores and buy greasy food. Such is the day for -which Uncle Sam pays us $7 per day and expects you to cough up at least -$4 for food and clothes. - -C'est la vie! - -_July 29th._ Cooler, overcast. There is a rumor of tennis balls being -procurable. Also about twenty pages of directions regarding mail -censorship, etc. All of which was duly read and all the information -which could be derived therefrom was that you could mention the -weather, the state of your health, and there it ended. No date, nothing -on letterhead, signature in a certain corner, and a thousand other -things. About five hundred letters and postal cards were returned this -morning marked "Improper to forward." The French term is "Achamement." - -_July 30th._ Cloudy and later raining. A violent thunder-storm Sunday -night. This is the first rain since leaving U.S.A. - -Major Hansell started classes on Field Service Regulations. We are to -have it two hours every morning, with an hour of drill in the p. m. -In addition, individual officers have been assigned special subjects -to report on. I have been given "Demography in so far as it relates -to the Vital Statistics of the Army." This is to be summarized and -reported upon from an article by Lieutenant-Commander Weston P. -Chamberlain. In the evening Russell and I gave Ward, Trinder, Hansell -and Peck a dinner at the Grand Hotel. Such things may seem trivial but -they mean much. Still no definite orders and simply marking time. - -_July 31st._ Making up mess statement. Trinder, Floyd and Steiner went -to Nancy this morning to get funds for pay day tomorrow. The enlisted -men are much excited at the prospect of getting money. They have all -patronized the café freely, buying candies, chocolates and cigarettes. -Candy is in great demand. Even the officers are consuming it in great -amounts. It seems strange to see men using it in such amounts. I went -to the candy shop in the Arcade to get some this morning, and the woman -was practically sold out. - -Two of the men go to Paris to-day at one p. m. to bring down a -motor-truck and the two mascot dogs that were given to the Unit. They -have been given a large number of commissions, among them one for -tennis and golf balls. - -_August 1st._ After two days' hard rain a beautiful clear day. It dried -sufficiently in the afternoon for some fine tennis. The box of athletic -goods has been opened and it was a real pleasure to get a good racquet -and some new balls. - -Russell, Stillman and myself dined at the Grand. At nine p. m. the -French officers tendered us a reception. We all sat around a long -table. Sweet champagne and a pyramid of cake were served with French -and American flags stuck in them. Major L---- made a speech of welcome -in French, then read a translation which somebody had evidently made -for him; his attempts at pronunciation nearly choked the poor man, for -he mopped the sweat from his brow and drained his glass at a gulp. At -the conclusion a toast to the American and French Armies was drunk. -Then Hansell arose and read a very nice little speech which Widener -attempted to translate, but all the jokes fell as dead as Cæsar -translated. - -The surprising thing was that among our men only one can speak French -and only a few understand anything. The French were no better off. -Still we struggled along, and all had, or seemed to have, a good time. -The party broke up by our singing the "Marseillaise" in English and -then "Oh, Say, etc." and finally "Way Down upon the Swanee River." The -French tried to respond, but broke down and explained they never sang -like that. - -Cave did not come home till one o'clock. Great excitement! - -Pershing and some of his staff came in the Grand while we were there. -He is an exceedingly fine-looking man. - -_August 2nd._ Just one month to-day since leaving home. - -Collected my mess funds to-day from the men, paid cooks and strikers. -I hope I can manage the accounts. It is a fussy, nasty job. They are -not going to let us eat here much longer, so we will try and make -arrangements with one of the hotels. I shall be glad at least to eat -outside of this filthy place. - -_August 3rd._ Nothing but rain. - -_August 4th._ Rain in showers all day. Tried to get a walk in the -afternoon, but torrents of rain drove us to cover. - -Moved to the Lorraine Hotel for our mess. This cuts me out of much -fussing. - -_August 5th._ Rain. Separated from the Lorraine mess and am taking my -meals separately on the Terrace. It costs a franc fifty extra, but the -peace is well worth it. - -In the evening a trainload of wounded arrived. There were over two -hundred and fifty--sixty stretcher cases, the remainder gas and minor -injuries, principally involving the extremities. Our men marched up to -the station and the new ambulances were drawn up on the siding. The -train pulled in packed with the wounded. They were all very quiet and -uncomplaining. I questioned several men. They came from Hill 304. They -said there was a new gas used there, which when launched was invisible, -producing no fumes and not creating any injury until the body comes -in contact with water. Thus a man getting wet or washing his face the -next day would receive a skin burn. If this is true the gas-mask would -afford but little protection. On coming back to the hotel I saw many -burns of the extremities; they had marked conjunctivitis. The stretcher -cases seemed mostly wounds of the extremities. - -In talking with the French, and this observation is borne out by -others, it seems that on the whole they are taking the war in a very -matter-of-fact spirit, and the blood-thirsty desire to extract the last -sou from our soldiers is the same as in the old tourist days. - -_August 6th._ Bright and clear! Oh, what a relief, after a miserable -week of drenching rain, in which all one's clothes are damp and soggy -and the feet are never dry. - -It is rumored--in fact, Major Hansell told me last night--that it is -more than probable that we will ultimately be quartered in barracks at -Chaumont. The high command have motored over there this morning to look -over the ground. - -_August 9th._ Nothing of any particular event. The days have been fine. -We have had our morning classes each day. Some of these classes are -fairly interesting, but the majority are rather dull. Russell and I -left the mess for a few days, but everywhere we went the French made -some attempt to do us. - -Several days ago we had definite orders we were to move to -Chaumont--going into barracks. Chaumont is a town of fifteen thousand -and at least will be more pleasant than this dirty little place. - -After lunch I applied to Major Hansell to be temporarily detailed for -field service. He did not seem adverse to the idea and told me to -bring the matter up later. I certainly want to see active service. This -present situation is not my idea of an able man's job, but something -that can be carried on by "any old person." I should like to get where -there is a little "red blood" and hear the last of the damned old -laundry and ice plant and whether the nurses got in on time or not. - -_August 12th._ Still waiting and doing nothing. Yesterday the men -played the officers at baseball, the latter winning 2-1. It was a -surprisingly good game. In the evening the first real instalment of -letters from home. - -I was officer of the day Friday. On making my ten o'clock rounds found -not a single light in the village streets and only one or two small -groups of people going home. It was a wonderful night, the wind just -whispering gently through the tree tops. I walked a bit in the park. -Nothing but silence. One might have been in a deserted village. On -coming in one could see the gun flashes toward Nancy, but we were too -far away to hear the sound. I stood on the balcony a long time watching -them. It all seemed so strange. All peace and tranquillity here and -forty miles away men struggling and battling for their lives. - -Today No. 6 Field Hospital came over and played our men at baseball. -Score 6-10 in favor of Roosevelt. The special interest of the game, as -far as the French were concerned, was the yelling and shouting of the -enlisted men, who simply outdid themselves playing Indian. - -There is a young fellow, Le Sieur by name, who escaped two weeks ago -from a German prison in Mayence. He and a friend forged passports and -boarded a train for Switzerland. It was their third attempt. The first -two were failures. He is here on a thirty days' leave with his mistress. - -Some officers came over with the baseball team from Gondrecourt. They -are a fine-looking lot of men. They are as disgusted with their lot -as we are with ours. Everything is apparently at sixes and sevens, but -at least they are apparently having much more activity and are able -to move about the country and see things. I am terribly keen to be -transferred into a Field Ambulance. - -The Chaumont question is all up a tree. Apparently the French are not -willing to turn the buildings over to us. At first they say, "Come -on and we will do all in our power," then when you come, the path is -strewn with every kind of petty annoyance. - -I felt very proud of the United States to-day when I saw the -Gondrecourt crowd. They certainly were a bully looking lot. - -_August 14th._ My birthday. Rain. Yesterday we motored over in the -ambulances to Bezoisir where Finney is located with Base 18. He is a -delightful man and I enjoyed a nice little chat with him. He is much -disgruntled, both personally and on the situation as a whole. In the -first place he is at odds with ---- ----, and in the second place, the -whole organization is all at sea. He thinks the Government is sending -over hospitals in greater number than there is any immediate demand -for; that they are furnished with no adequate quarters and given no -work. In the third place, Finney thinks that the whole system is -wrong; that where the best results are to be accomplished is close -to the firing line, where the cases can be seen comparatively early; -that there should be less handling and transportation of the wounded. -The French are already trying to do this by cutting out some of their -clearing hospitals. - -We lunched at Neufchâteau, a small town of about, I should say, five -thousand inhabitants, very charmingly situated in the valley with a -small stream--I think the Meuse--running through it. We visited one -very picturesque old church on a high rock. There was some military -activity in the town, as it was on the main line. We also saw some -German prisoners working with an armed guard. - -In the afternoon played some tennis and then we gave the French -officers a return champagne and cake supper. A terrible ordeal. I -struggled with Genevet, who is the best appearing of the lot. He was -sick and hard to talk to, and I simply could not squeeze any French -out. After we got started the men came in and sang. The hotel guests -were tremendously interested in this and crowded into the room to watch -us. The men let it go in good old college fashion, and I am sure they -regarded us as a lot of semi-maniacs, although they all enjoyed it -hugely. - -_August 15th._ Stillman, Russell and James gave me a fine birthday -dinner at the Grand last night. It was mighty nice of them and we -all had a good time. We opened up with sherry and bitters, Burgundy -and two bottles of "fiz" and came home feeling comfortable. Old Mc -was in bed. We pretended we were drunk and he dressed us down. In -spite of the extra liquid, woke up feeling in fine form. Sunshine -with tropical showers, but it is getting colder all the time. Great -excitement to-day; we are going to Gondrecourt to hear a lecture on war -surgery by Major Claude Bernard. We arrived there at three p. m. via -Neufchâteau, then about fifteen miles further on to G. A dirty, sloppy -little village simply packed with troops. On the road over, just as we -were coming in, a tropical downpour, which was followed by brilliant -sunshine five minutes later. - -Gondrecourt is simply packed with men, geese and chickens. All seemed -tumbling one over the other. All the officers and men that can be -are billeted on the town, and consequently the little courts have -improvised tables and racks for guns and accouterments. Besides, the -6th Ambulance Company has division hospitals. On the outskirts other -regiments are encamped. We did not go outside the town, so did not see -the latter. - -Claude Bernard spoke in English. He was a clean-cut Frenchman of the -best type, with a sense of humor. He spoke of the best disposition to -make of the wounded. Experience is teaching them over here that the -nearer the front the main hospital is, the greater its efficiency. It -seems ridiculous that our best men should remain in the rear only for -the old cases, while the younger and less experienced should have all -the real work. Our Government is discussing breaking up or reorganizing -our present system, and very logically so. It means three to four -stages for a wounded man, whereas, if he can be received within twelve -hours in a field hospital, there ought to be 80 per cent. better -results. At least, so says Bernard. - -My great fear is that we shall be broken up and that I will be sent -inland to take care of a lot of uninteresting sick. And I want to see -the real thing and not sit back twisting my thumbs. - -On the way back we stopped at Domremy, the town where Jeanne d'Arc was -born, and saw the little church where she made her First Communion. In -a park right across the way is an old house with the upper story done -over, which is supposed to be her home. It is a museum with busts and -pictures of her. I doubt if any of the original house is standing, for -in the wall is a small, worm-eaten bit of timber covered over with -wire netting, which is apparently all that remains of the original -structure. The church is of the simple village type without anything of -special interest, other than its historical association. - -We made rapid time home and got back in time to brush off some dust -before dinner. Peck told me to-night that I would be sent up in advance -to start the mess at Chaumont. This probably means Saturday or Sunday. - -Higgins broke his leg yesterday. Haberman, the man with the -pneumothorax, is no better to-day. They had the priest in yesterday. - -_August 19th._ How can I tell all that has happened in the past three -days? I left Vittel two days ago in the ambulance with four sick men -on stretchers and a nurse. We jogged along through pleasant country, -via Neufchâteau to here, where we arrived at about three thirty -p.m.--fifty-three miles or thereabout. The country is charming, but -cold stone barracks like prison cells, a great bare court over which -dust swirls in clouds, covering the clothes, hands and face--in five -minutes boots and gaiters are white--it drifts through into the rooms, -covering beds and furniture and clothes. And then a blazing, dazzling -sun, fairly blinding as it is reflected from the white earth. Only one -little scrap of green can be seen in the whole surroundings, and that -is toward the west. We are in the new Artillery Barracks, which, since -the beginning of the war, have been partially used as a hospital. We -are taking it over in part from the French, with the understanding that -later we will be in whole charge. - -The country itself is beautiful. Situated as we are on the crest of -a hill, by going outside the compound on the east and west is an -extensive view, stretching away for miles over the valley on each side. - -Well, I arrived here and all was chaos. We got some beds up, and I -slept in a large cell alone, without a hook to hang anything on. No -toilet or bathing facilities. Chaumont is two kilometers away, and -if one were marooned on a desert island the isolation could not be -greater. My job is the mess--always the mess. No kitchens except the -general ones. No sinks, but I scratched around. We buy through the -French. The endeavor is to keep down the prices. - -The rest of the crowd turned up late last night, and we pulled off a -good dinner in spite of many difficulties. Our same crowd is together -again. - -Captain Edmond Schwander, formerly an apothecary de première classe, -is the Quartermaster in charge of the barracks. He is a real live -proposition, and seems to be a mighty nice fellow. - -Now we have the job of fitting up our rooms for the ordinary -conveniences of life. Also, it is up to me to get maids to take care of -them. - -I took two meals at the French officers' mess. It was most amusing. -A little room over an apothecary shop in town. I cannot describe the -scene, but it was reminiscent of some of the scenes from "Trilby." The -room was plastered in posters--some proper and some more improper--and -the conversation was equally mixed. I was sorry to leave them and come -out here. - -We walk at least two hundred yards for our baths, across the court in -full view of an admiring crowd--and here is when I take my first one. - -_August 20th._ Mess! Mess! Mess! All is mess! New Job! Care of -officer's quarters. Boss of four old ladies, three teeth among -them--one has none--total sum of ages--four hundred years. - -Telegram calling Peck and Russell to French front to observe. In town -with the motor-cycle to do some shopping. Home! The orchestra is -pounding away with a vengeance, surrounded by an admiring crowd of -invalids--some healthy ones. - -Broke the crystal on my nice little watch--otherwise, life a blank. No -sensations except hunger. No emotions except disgust. - -The French officers gave our officers a champagne breakfast at eleven -a.m. this morning from which all returned in genial spirit. Such is -life in Chaumont. - -_August 24th._ Back to barracks after three days' absence. Monday last -they brought in fifteen hundred patients in the twenty-four hours. Jim -Russell and Peck had gone, and finally, in sheer desperation, I got on -one of the ambulances and rode in to town. They were just finishing -unloading and Peightel was talking through an interpreter with the -Médecin Chef in charge of the train. The Médecin was asking him if he -could not make a trip with him and personally see the hospital at the -front. Trinder was standing by and thought it would be a good thing, -but was sure that Hansell could not put it through. I told him I would -go with him. Trinder said, "Go and see what Hansell will say." So back -we rushed. Hansell, like a trump, said "Yes." So back we went over -the bumpy old road, pitch dark, and found some "big gun" Major, who -telephoned to St. Dozier, the military headquarters of the zone of -the interior. Got permission, then walked back, threw a few things in -a valise and carried it between us to Chaumont Station. It was about -eleven o'clock then and everything had pretty well settled down for the -night. We found the Commissaire de Gare was expecting us, and he had -written out for us directions or orders to proceed to St. Dozier and -report to the Commissaire Regulatrice, and she had been informed of -our coming and would tell us what to do. - -After many vicissitudes, as daylight was just breaking, the train -pulled out, and about an hour later when we reached Robert Espagne -the sun was coming up over the hilltop, the little town lay below in -the valley with the mist still hanging over the river. On the right, -explosions were heard, which we later found were from a party of -recruits practising bombing. From the same hill two years ago the 6th -Division of Artillery made a stand and drove back the Germans in their -drive on Bar-le-Duc. If they had cut that line and taken Bar-le-Duc -it would have divided the French Army. This was in the days of the -Marne. The old Guard Communal, whom we met on the road, told us in a -most vivid and simple manner how the Boche shells were pouring over -the woods and how the French stood their ground. Later he went out and -found a German flag. - -Beyond Robert Espagne we were in the zone of the active army--miles -of wagon trains going both ways and smothered in a cloud of dust. -At Rivigny we entered on the military railroad, the regular line to -Verdun having been cut on the Verdun drive. Also a little later we -caught constant glimpses of the Voie Saire on the road that supplied -Verdun after the railroad had been cut. There were still thousands of -motor-trucks going both ways. Now and then soldiers' graves dotted the -fields or lay along the lines of the railroad. The French had a helmet -hanging on the cross, the Boche a little wooden fencing around it, -which will soon break down and mean that many a poor chap will lie in -an unknown grave in foreign soil. At Rivigny, or just beyond, here and -there a half-destroyed village, or perhaps just the church. It seemed -always the church that was marked. - -At Évers the village was practically wiped out. - -Then as we approached Fleury toward sunset the air was alive with -aerial activity. Planes were constantly flying one way or the other. -The French can tell the difference between their machines and the -Boche, by the hum of the motors. And now as far as the eye can reach, -a long line of observation balloons. We could easily see twelve or -fifteen, and as the train pulled in there was a terrific bombing, with -dozens of little balls of white smoke in the clouds and a dozen aeros -circling in that vicinity. The men cried "bloins," which meant that -there was a Boche plane trying to get through. - -The air was dead calm. The cotton balls slowly turned from white -to black and then faded away. Suddenly a burst of flame which shot -precipitately to earth, and murmurs of delight from the officers -standing about. The Boche had been winged and fallen to earth. - -We went through the hospital. I was not much interested. Salle de -Tirage, where the cases were sorted--Salle d'Opération--Salle du -Stérilisation--Salle du Pansement et Tisane. But it was all dealing -with wreckage, and one wanted to go on and up where men were living and -doing. - -As dusk came on, flash, flash, some small, some large. Great blasts -from a Vulcan's furnace that lit the skyline from horizon to horizon, -and through the still night the constant purr drifted back. - -The motors kept pouring back from the front, each with a load; driver -covered with dust, its contents a mass of dust, grimed and plastered -on, often with blood, but the eyes flashed--for they had been _there_. - -Captain Félix Melin was shot through the shoulder circling the right -side of Hill 304. His arm was in a sling, his coat hung about his -shoulders, blood spattered down trousers and over suspenders, but -he was the Real Thing. Several men of his Company file down the -gangway into the train--soldiers of the 9th Company of the 303rd -Regiment--they were his men and he had led them! A handshake and -a pat on the back were waiting for each man. From all the line of -wreckage--tired, weary men--never one word of complaint, but on all -sides friends met, or members of the same command met and compared -experiences. Many were going back for the second, third and fourth -time--all had been out in the heart of things, and were coming back for -repairs to make the trip again. - -Finally we got our load and started back, but just before leaving, -the cry of "Boche Aéroplane" was heard. All lights went out. The -plane passed over us, then we went crawling back with our load. St. -Dozier again, Montdidier, Brienne. There the men were fed meat, -bread, wine and cheese. Piney, Troyes and Mesgrigny, where they were -all discharged. It was with much regret that I saw Melin go, and his -Lieutenant Broule. They were the best. - -Then back to Troyes where we gave Major Costacy and his Adjutant -Aubert a dinner at the hotel, and opened a bottle of "fiz." I -proposed drinking it with dinner, but they seemed horrified with the -idea and said it was for dessert only. So we had white wine first -and then "fiz." They enjoyed it and mellowed out. It improved my -French tremendously, and when we had finished dinner and gone across -the street to the Café for coffee, I was talking fluently on war, -petticoats, and soaring prices. However, we all walked out to the -train, two kilos outside the town, singing the "Madelon." We climbed -into our little compartment which seems like home now. - -The Adjutant Aubert--I can't describe him. But to me he was fascinating -and I could not keep my eyes off him. A face like Christ, with a full -beard, even white teeth, a calm, serene face, but with an eye that -flashed hell-fire when he spoke. Ten years in Algeria, through all the -North African campaigns, and covered with a mass of decorations. Cora -seemed the only thing in life he cared for. Cora was a fox-terrier -picked up in the streets of Chaumont and Cora was everything to him. -She followed him everywhere, slept on his bed, and he watched over her -like a baby. - -During the night we pulled into Joinville and then into Chevillon, -where the train pulled into a siding for further orders. We took the -train back to Chaumont and came down through a beautiful valley into -the town, arriving just in time for lunch at the France. Then back to -barracks. Jim and Peck had returned and we exchanged experiences, which -were about the same. - -Trinder and Hansell have gone to Paris for their examinations for -promotion. I spoke to Hansell about being transferred to a regiment, -and he said he would try and arrange it. I want to get into the real -thing and be with real men, and not sitting around here just taking -care of sick people. - -_August 27th._ Life has settled down to the same old routine. A violent -thunder-storm last night, but fine and clear and much cooler to-day. -The weather has been fine now for the past ten days. - -Hansell and Trinder are coming back to-night and we are preparing a -spread for them--cocktails, sweet champagne. I have been tearing all -over town to find some gin, which I finally accomplished at la maison -of M. Henry, who was well stocked with every kind of wine. - -There has been a lot of kick about the food. The men seem to be always -hungry--an enormous breakfast and then howls for more lunch--then tears -when the bill comes. I had a meeting two nights ago and told them they -could have what they wanted, but they would have to pay for it. They -finally voted a French breakfast, which began this morning. I did not -come down till late, but I was told they were a doleful lot. However, -they will get used to it later. Nothing but housekeeping. It takes from -two to three hours to get the work straightened out. - -_August 30th._ The dinner was quite a success. Every one limbered up, -and laughter, loud and plenty, was the order of the night. Since then -nothing worthy of note. - -At last I have an orderly and he is working on my books. And perhaps -life will now be pleasanter. - -_September 3rd._ The golden morning sun came pouring in the window -this morning and Trinder came smashing in the door at six thirty a. m. -demanding the key of the storeroom. - -Yesterday we took a nice walk, climbing the heights on the west bank of -the Marne. - -I went to Colonel Hansell this morning and asked permission to resign -from the job of the mess. He immediately granted my request. To-night -at dinner he made a very pretty little speech, thanking me for my work -under very trying circumstances and calling for three cheers for the -retiring mess officer, which were given with a hearty good will. It was -a most courteous thing, and I was deeply touched. What a relief to -have the thing off my shoulders! - -I walked to town with my wash and felt like a boy out of school. Cave -joined me and we went down to the new headquarters. Everything was -humming with activity. Tents line the road on both sides. Motors and -motorcycles are flying in all directions. Engineers stringing wires -and newly-made majors swaggering about, greatly impressed with their -own importance, all looking very debonair and rather foolish. They -are rather a fine-looking lot on the whole, the Western type easily -predominating. - -We lunched peacefully at the Hotel France. - -Peck told me Bradley had asked for teams to go to the front for a two -weeks' tour of duty and McWilliams had chosen me as a team mate. Hurrah! - -_September 13th._ Haven't written. Little to write about. The evening -of the 10th, Kildare and I walked along the canal to a little town -called Luzy. There we made a find in the form of a nice, good-natured, -well-nourished woman who keeps a little restaurant near the station. -She cooked us a good omelet with potatoes and salad, with plenty of -bread and good butter. Eating it in the court in front of the house, -it was all right, and fired me with a sporting spirit of adventure and -a bit of life in the open away from all this chaos and turmoil. So, on -returning, I proposed to the room that we take a walking trip. Henry -James was the only one who took me up and so the next morning, having -obtained permission, we started with no definite destination other than -to get lunch at Luzy with Madame and then push on to any old place. - -Madame at Luzy told us that Nogent-la-Haute was an interesting old town -about fifteen kilometers away, so we started off with full stomachs -to reach it. We strolled along the canal with its sides lined with -beautiful Lombardy poplars. The afternoon was hot, but, other than an -occasional fisherman who never seemed to catch anything, there were no -signs of life alongside the canal. The Marne babbled over the stones, -here and there turning a water-wheel, and great gray cattle grazed -peacefully in the meadows, and we breathed a deep breath of freedom, -and joy of the open road crept into my bones. It seemed once again -that care and responsibility had rolled away and that I was a boy with -nothing to do but to wander where the spirit willed. - -Then an idea struck us. How nice it would be to board a canal-boat -and just idle along with it. But none came. Then a plan for taking -a train and going to Belfort and from there out to the French, but -at the station the timetable said the last train that day had gone, -and then again the distance was given as one hundred and fifty-four -kilometers, much too far in the short time at our disposal. So finally -it was decided, at Faulein, to take the little narrow-gauge road to -Nogent-la-Haute. So narrow-gauge it was; and it puffed up hill for -twelve kilometers to a snug little village perched on a high rock -surrounded with gardens and the biggest pine-trees I have ever seen. -The tower of an old castle spoke of seigneurial days when "barons held -their sway." - -I looked forward to a nice, quiet, cozy little dinner and a good sleep -and a morning's loaf, strolling about the town to the wonderful view -from the great precipitous height on the west. But nothing of the sort. -As we descended from the train a dozen urchins cried, "Les Américains!" -and in half the time it takes to write it, a dozen more sprang up, -taking up the cry, so that walking along the main street there was a -troop of urchins crowding about us and from the windows heads appeared, -the whole town coming to life. The urchins ran into the hotel and told -Madame "les Américains" were on the threshold. Madame rushed out all -a-flutter and courtesied us in. Mother and sister courtesied. Were we -spending the night? Did we eat? We assured her we ate and were spending -the night. Then, what would we eat and where would we eat it? This -latter point was unfortunately settled by the chief permanent boarder, -acting as a delegate and asking the honor of having us join them. There -was no alternative. We simply had to dine with them, and we marched -bravely in. - -Talk! My God! My God! There was no end to it! Words rolled out -in avalanches. Special brands of red wine were ordered, coffee, -liqueurs--but always talk. Now, if you are not a professor of the -French language and you are tired after a day's tramp, and if it is up -to you to appear half intelligent (for James was lucky enough not to -speak a word of French and so it was up to me), it is exhausting. Those -moments were like sitting on a chair and having hot needles stuck all -over one's body. - -Talk! Talk! The war! Every one had a son or brother, or at least a -brother-in-law, killed or wounded. We were doctors, so a minute account -of their deaths or how they acted after they were wounded. Then what -the war had done to them, and what they had done to the war. Then -politics. What America would do. How independent the Americans were. -They smoked cigarettes with their meals. They only smoked them half -through, etc., etc., etc. - -It seems we were the first Americans since one Gillette, of -safety-razor fame, had established a factory there some twelve years -ago. Gillette! Gillette! We heard all about razors till I wished -Gillette shaved into fragments. We must see the factory in the morning. -We must visit Collin's surgical instrument emporium. - -At seven thirty in the morning they were on the job, but we stayed in -our room and watched the market going on in the public square. - -_September 14th._ A fine driving rain and a beautiful cold in the head, -and all the rooms have a dampness that drives to the bone. Finished my -twenty-four hours as O. D. at nine this morning--nothing happened. - -_September 16th._ Time drags interminably. It is a glorious day, but -absolutely nothing to do, either in the way of play or work. I feel as -if my brain were jellifying, or that if something did not happen I must -simply run away. Army life! It squeezes every inch of individuality -out of a man. Its rules are those of the Medes and Persians, and no -blue-black Presbyterian could be more strict in their observance. In -the fighting line it is all right, but in the "administering angel" job -it is Hell. - -The men are playing baseball and the Frenchmen Rugby football. James, -Cave and myself lunched at the France, but it was deadly. The streets -contain only old women with few teeth and look bedraggled out of all -proportion. - -_September 20th._ Tuesday night Kilbane and I dined at the Signal Corps -quarters. They are in the Château of Chaumont, down under the hill. -It is a wonderful little place, resplendent with a hundred memories, -for the place was built by Louis XV for a hunting lodge, and, to all -appearances, remains unchanged to-day. It is built on a court, only two -stories high, and much of the old fittings still remain. The garden -is overgrown with weeds and the flowers are sadly neglected, but in -spite of everything one's imagination harks back to former times, for -the atmosphere is all there. As we were shown around by Major Dodd it -seemed almost sacrilegious to turn it over to the unappreciative hands -of officers. - -Colonel Churchill was the Commanding Officer. He impressed me very much -as a gentleman and a personality of much charm. - -_September 24th._ Two glorious autumn days with wonderful sunrises and -sunsets. Only small bunches of clouds are appearing, which in all -probability means trouble for tomorrow. - -Everybody is getting very restless and unless something happens to -break the calm tranquillity of the daily routine, something is going to -blow up. Saturday the officers played the Johns Hopkins unit at Bazoirs -and, although they were beaten, they came back full of enthusiasm over -the good times they had and the hospitality shown them. - -Last night a telegram saying, "War Department offers you commission -gastro-enterologist, rank Captain, base hospital here. Only thirty-two -appointments. Will you accept if transfer possible. Cable immediately." -I answered, "Prefer France." - -I do not want to leave now because, in spite of the awful waste in time -and money, the game is just beginning, and I want to see it through. - -There is a rumor that Brewer will be here for lunch. I hope so, as it -means a little news of what is going on around us. Steiner and I are -planning to go to Troyes for Saturday night for a bit of a change. - -_September 25th._ Brewer arrived about noon and after lunch recounted -his adventures at the front. They were exciting and they all had narrow -squeaks. He was on the British lines East of Ypres and while he was -there the Evacuation Hospital was bombed three times. - -Darrach was asked to join in a poker game one night. He said he was -tired and did not want to play as he had been operating all day, -but they kept urging him and as he was ahead of the game he finally -consented. They had not been playing fifteen minutes when there was a -terrific crash. Darrach went out to see what had happened and found -a bomb had fallen squarely on his tent. Nothing remained but a few -fragments of his overcoat; there was a hole six feet deep and about ten -feet in diameter. - -A few moments later, when Brewer was in bed, a second crash followed by -a shower of fragments. He rushed out and was told some of his nurses -were hurt. A bomb had fallen right in front of the kitchen, blowing it -to splinters. A fragment had struck Miss McDonald, his former operating -nurse, just below the right eye, and fragments of shell wounded two -others. There were seventy people wounded that night. - -He then went on to recount many little instances of life in an -Evacuation Hospital. How the officers finally dug themselves in. They -did not like to do it at first, as they were all new at the game and -no one wanted to show that he was nervous. They heard Boche avions -passing overhead frequently, and at those times they would climb -in the dugouts. O---- had a narrow escape. They heard bombs in the -neighborhood. He rushed in his tent for his helmet. His servant was -there and as soon as they found it they both rushed out. As they ran -along, the servant about twenty feet in advance, crash--and the servant -was wafted off the face of the earth. - -All day and all night shells were passing over them. Also he told us an -authentic story of one of his patients who was wounded in a charge, the -wound proving to be a compound fracture of the thigh. He crawled into -a shell-hole where he met another man with a compound fracture of the -arm. They remained there using their rations and water. Then the man -with the arm crawled out and brought in food and water from the dead -that were lying about them. And so they existed until the forty-ninth -day. On that night the arm man failed to return and was never seen -again. So the leg man waited two more days, catching some water in -his helmet, and then realized he must get out or starve. So starting -in the direction in which he knew the British lines to be, he crawled -across no-man's-land when, to his surprise, he came up to a trench and -found it filled with Germans. He then realized that this trench had -been built while he was lying out there and to get home he must cross -it. So he waited for a time, until a moment when there were no Germans -near him, and jumped it landing on his good leg. Crawling further he -at last arrived in front of his own trench where he was seen and a big -fusillade opened. He escaped this and finally by yelling in English -they realized it was one of their own men and he was taken in. This was -after fifty days. Brewer states the story has been corroborated in all -details and is true. - -Stillman has sent McWilliams a letter in which he says there are -altogether too many shells flying around and very little to do. - -I am looking forward to the day when we will get up there and see some -of these things for ourselves. - -Later the order came. It reads that we report in Paris at nine a. m., -Saturday, September 29th, report to the 2nd Army, British Expeditionary -Force for a period of fourteen days. - -_September 27th._ _Paris._ McWilliams and I came on last night, -leaving Chaumont at five thirty reaching here ten p. m. The city was -better illuminated than the last time I was here. We are stopping at -the Continental Hotel--not as nice as the Ritz and more expensive. The -breakfast room here this morning was filled with ambulance drivers, -doctors and nurses. - -Called on Henry Clews and Lillie Havemeyer. Both out. - -Paris to-day looked actually down at the heel. - -_September 28th._ The following medical clinics are held at Paris: -Heart Diseases--Hop. St. Antoine Vacquez; General Medicine--Hop. Cochin -Vidal; General Medicine--Hop. Cochin Chauffard. - -Lunch with Lillie Havemeyer. Called on Dorziat and met General Brook, -who is a son of Lord Warwick. D. asked him to give me letters to some -of the officers with the Second Army Corps, which he has promised to -do. - -Last night was a real party. McW. and I started out for dinner, met two -British officers at Henry's bar. We had a few, and then went around -to Géney's for dinner. It was fine. We all sat down in a little room. -Dinner was served at seven thirty to all. There were several very nice -girls in the party and we had a very jolly evening. - -Dined with Henry Clews to-night. - -_September 29th._ Reported at nine a. m. at Medical Headquarters, 10 -Rue Ste. Anne, and there got our orders. We leave at one fifteen for -Amiens. Spend the night there. The following morning proceed to Albert, -arriving at six fifty-five a. m. There report to the Liaison Officer at -Headquarters, 2nd British Army, and then to Director of Medical Service -at the same place. A pass has been issued to us and so we are all ready -for whatever comes. - -Saw Pool and Colonel Winter, who was very cordial. Now to pack and -lunch. - -We packed up, caught one fifteen train, and a few minutes before six p. -m. pulled into Amiens.--On July 30th, 1914, Helen and I spent the night -here and met Sir Seymour King in the Hotel Rhin. How well he conceived -the magnitude of the whole thing. That evening after dinner he said, -"This will be a veritable Armageddon, in which you will be eventually -involved." And here we are now after three years and two months. - -McWilliams and I dined at the Hotel Rhin and sat in the garden. How -memories come back. The dinner was poor and the price high. - -Just before dinner we visited the Cathedral. The carving on the outside -and inside is piled high with sandbags and was invisible. There were -absolutely no lights in Amiens and the streets were simply crowded with -Tommies. We managed to get a nasty room in the Belford near the station. - -_September 30th._ We were called at four forty-five a. m. after a -horrible night of little sleep from screeching railroad whistles, and -in the dark hurriedly shaved and dressed. The porter brought a cup -of coffee and slice of bread, for which they had the nerve to charge -two francs. Then carrying our own bags we started for the station. In -spite of the early hour the place was crowded, both with military and -civilians. It was pitch black, but the train was found and we all piled -in and started for Albert. As day dawned a thick mist prevented any -range of vision, but just before reaching Albert it began to lift and -ruins of villages, or villages partly in ruins, could be seen. Then the -train pulled in. - -The station was full of shell-holes, in fact, half demolished--but we -stored our baggage in a shed and started down the street to find the -Liaison Officer. But the city was in ruins. The walls were pockmarked -by machine-gun fire and only about one in ten habitable. And then as -we turned a street corner we saw the Cathedral, or rather the shell of -what it once was. From the top of the shell-shattered tower the Virgin -and Child were suspended at right angles, the Child extending far out. -As the mist lifted the sun struck the gilding. It was like a miracle -and one fairly gasped. We were all much impressed and somewhat awed, -for there was silence for some minutes afterward. - -The Cathedral was totally destroyed, only the four walls and tower -standing, and large holes through all the walls. For blocks around -there, no houses were left standing and only a block of stone and a -few piles which marked doorstep and entrance hall. Some houses had no -roofs and some roofs had no house, but remained suspended when all -the remaining structure had gone. It was like wandering through some -recently excavated city. - -At Albert one first comes in contact with English efficiency and -there is only one word to express it, and that is "Marvelous." The -gaping windows and doorways of shattered houses are wired across to -keep out marauders. The streets are fairly polished, signs posted -in English--regarding roads, officers' quarters and different staff -traffic guards, but above all, one is amazed at the wonderful neatness -and order. - -After wandering about for about an hour we finally found the S.F.C., -Rest House and Mess-Room. The roof was gone and the whole top story, -but that was boarded up and a little mess-room made, and around the -garden, which had been cleaned up, were rooms for stray officers. We -got the first good breakfast there I have had since leaving home. The -touch of England was everywhere. A Sergeant received you and gave you a -check in the hall. There is a parlor and reading-room, etc. Certainly -they know how to do things. But writing this twenty-four hours later, -what we admired then we marveled at now. For that same hand of quiet -efficiency is everywhere. No wonder they are the most wonderful -colonizers of the world. But more of this later. - -There was no Liaison Officer, so we went to Medical Headquarters -(D.D.M.S.), and speaking about D.D.M.S., one needs a dictionary to -understand these initials. Everything is initialed. I am struggling to -get on to them, but it is very confusing to a beginner. - -From D.D.M.S. we were sent forward in two ambulances, one for baggage -and one for ourselves. We left Albert on the Bapaume Road, and now -all power of description fails. One looks with mixed awe, wonder and -admiration. - -The battlefield begins on all sides. As far as the eye can see are -trenches, shell-holes and graves. The country is one vast barren -stretch. Scarcely a tree remains. Not a habitation is left standing. -Barbed-wire entanglements run across the country for miles. - -On all sides English soldiers are working, cleaning and salvaging the -French lumber and wrecked building material and remaking the roads. The -sites of previous hamlets are marked by a sign in many places, and by -signs and bricks and a few remnants of walls. In other places literally -not a fragment remains of what once was a little French village. - -Words can never paint a picture of what unfolds before the eye. You -feel that at the top of the near crest this desolation must end and -life begin again, but it goes on and on, mile after mile, a dreary -waste of torn-up ground and blighted tree stumps. - -And the English. No words can tell of their wonderful efficiency and -sanitation. Water-tanks, horse troughs, latrines, water for washing, -water-tanks where canteens may be filled, manure dumps where all manure -is collected and covered with earth to keep flies away. It all speaks -for wonderful order and efficiency. - -At crossroads a traffic man stands to regulate vehicles. - -Crosses of white, crosses with the tricolor of France, and black -crosses, mark the graves of English, French and German, respectively. -Here and there little cemeteries of white crosses are scattered through -the fields where they have been able to collect their dead. - -Fifteen kilometers to Bapaume, which is a mass of wreckage, and on to -Battencourt. Here we met Colonel Westcott, who looked us over, and -then shipped us to the 2/1 Field Ambulance of the 62nd Battalion at -Fevreuil. We get out here, our baggage is unloaded and we enter our -shelter. Now a shelter is a round piece of corrugated iron with a -wooden floor and serves for winter quarters. - -_October 1st._ I sha'n't attempt to describe a Field Ambulance -personnel. Everyone has explained it to me and that is sufficient, -because I didn't understand it and probably never shall. Only, it is in -three sections and each section is in three parts, so we are part one -of second section. Thus 2/1. - -We are comfortably quartered and the men are all nice fellows. The -colonel is on leave and Captain Pope is in command. The officers are -all fed up on the war as they have been at it since the start and have -all seen trench service. - -All morning we rode around with the Sanitary Officer inspecting camps -and sanitation in general. The English make a separate sanitary service -under trained sanitary men and not doctors. In the course of the -morning we met Major English, a charming fellow, not over thirty, who -took us over his battalion of Lewis guns. They had just come back the -night before, but quiet, order and cleanliness reigned everywhere. -Truly a remarkable people. - -In the afternoon we motored over to Péronne with the same Sanitary -Lieutenant (Hafflin), and again a vast track of devastation as far -as the eye could reach in all directions--trenches, barbed wire and -graves. Literally, not a habitable house left standing. Péronne has -a school of sanitation where the men are detailed for two or three -days for instruction in general camp sanitation. It is a remarkable -institution. Every bit of waste material is utilized. Petrol cans make -wonderful stoves. Boxes are sawed up into latrine covers, wash benches, -meat-safes. Tin cans are cut up and reshaped into many utensils. Hinges -are improvised from bits of leather, pieces of tin and wire. It has all -been carefully worked out and nothing left to chance. Then again all -wagons, bits of equipment, harness, etc., are groomed with just as much -care and attention as they would be at home. Autos are washed, shined -and polished. It is all simply a marvel. - -Péronne is a mass of wreckage like everything else. Evidently a once -charming little Cathedral lies in a mass of wreckage, and on the -doors of the Hôtel de Ville is scribbled in chalk "Eintritt fur 40 -Sanitatespersonnel." The destitution of the Cathedral is so complete -that it must have been blown up. - -_October 3rd._ Yesterday morning about nine o'clock we started -for Écoust-Longatte, going out in the motor ambulance about four -kilometers. We were fitted out with steel helmets and two gas-masks, -the second as an emergency in case anything happens to the first. -After going about two kilometers there is a sign "No traffic beyond -this point." Here the steel helmet is adjusted and the gas-mask drawn -up in front, the bag opened and everything made ready for immediate -adjustment. Then over about a two-kilometer stretch of road in full -view of Fritz and under the range of his guns. The road is lined with -small dugouts. Here and there empty shells are hung, to be rung in case -of a gas attack. The condition of the wind is noted on boards as "Wind -dangerous" or "Wind safe" depending upon the point of the compass from -which it blows. - -We crossed the two kilometers on the crest of the ridge. On all sides -not a sign of life. This absence of all visual signs of life is almost -appalling, for on all sides as far as the eye can reach not a cat is -seen. Yet there is the creepy feeling that some one is always watching -you. - -At Écoust is A. D. S. (Advance Dressing Station) in the cellar of a -ruined brewery. The men sleep, eat and live at least twelve feet below -the ground. At the doors are two sets of curtains soaked in a solution -of hexamine to be lowered on the sounding of the gas alarm, also with -apparatus standing near to keep them sprayed with the same solution. -After speaking with the officer in charge we set out on foot through -Longatte, which is a small suburb of Écoust. Here the road for a -strip of two hundred yards is in view of Fritz and it is camouflaged -with wire netting to which small particles of green cloth are tied. -We passed two enormous mine pits in the center of the road which the -Germans blew up on their retreat to the Hindenburg Line. Bullecourt -could be seen about three miles in front of us. All that remains now -is a pile of white rubbish. The English line runs up to the suburbs of -this town. - -Now, at this point we took to the communication trench. It is called -Bullecourt Avenue, and we followed it for about three miles. It is -just wide enough to walk in and the floor is covered with duck boards. -And now shells begin screaming overhead. The first desire was to duck, -but it is surprising how soon one grows accustomed to the sound. In a -quarter of an hour we paid but little heed to them. Occasionally we -passed little groups of men working their way back, when one or the -other of us had to stand and flatten ourselves against the side and -squeeze past. Twice we met groups of officers on inspection. One was -General Lord Harnbleu. In about twenty or thirty minutes we came to a -trench running at right angles. This was Railway Avenue, paralleling -the railway embankment. In front of this were only outpost points, so -we were practically in the front trench and about fifty yards from the -Boche at places. - -The most surprising thing was the few men that one saw. At intervals -of about one hundred feet were sentries while scattered along in little -bunches of two or three were men eating or sleeping. Every here and -there gun points or men stationed with Lewis guns or Victor automatic. - -The sunshine was warm and pleasant, so we stood around, chatted, looked -at the maps and looked at the German positions through the periscope. A -wonderful thing, because it was absolutely similar to peeking through a -hole in the embankment. Not a sign of life from the Boche, except the -constant whiz of shells both coming and going, but they all appeared -to be dropping on our left. Every little distance were deep dugouts, -twenty-five to thirty feet under ground and well timbered. On this -line were two Regimental Dressing Stations. It was like living in a -mine shaft. There were quarters for officers, officers' mess. The men -cook their own food and get good hot stuff. What cannot be cooked is -brought up in large cans built on the principle of thermos bottles. - -From Railway trench into Tower trench, where we inspected another R. -D. S., and then back to the railway embankment. From one line of this -trench where the ground sinks there is an open road leading back to -Écoust. Captain Pope said that Fritz seldom troubled small numbers -of men walking back and that this road was frequently used by the -stretcher-bearers. So we started back over it and after about one -hundred yards one could turn and look full into the German trench with -its wire entanglement in front of it. Standing there I fully expected -to be fired at, but nothing happened, although our shells were breaking -on his parapets not four hundred yards to the left, throwing up big -columns of dirt. So we spread out and started along the two-mile -stretch. - -The whole ground was pocked with shell-holes, a fallen aeroplane was -lying there, a dead horse, but all the bodies had been apparently -gathered in as I saw none. All the time shells kept screaming overhead. -Some English battery would fire a salvo, and then Fritz would reply, -trying to find out where our guns were. - -We finally reached the A. D. S., had lunch at three thirty, and then -climbed out on an old crumbling wall and watched one of our batteries -shell Fritz's trench. It was a fascinating sight to see the shells -throw clouds of earth in the air. I walked home with the Padre, Michael -Moran, an R. C., a bully fellow. On our left was Vaux. Like all the -rest it was a heap of rubble. Below was Beaumont Hamil. All this -country was the scene of the wildest, bloodiest fighting of the war. - -Below I note some of the Boche's tricks and his ways as given by the -British Padre, Reverend Michael Moran of West Riding Field Ambulance: - -Dugout Traps-- - -Branch in front of dugout connected with mines. - -Spade wired to mine. - -Pictures, vases, helmets, fountain pens, books on tables, nails in -wall, loose boards in floor, things on verge of falling, and piano -connected with wires; clocks connected with mines, bells connected with -mines timed to go off by a rod in acid. - -Mining of churches and other buildings which have not been touched. -This was pulled off at Bapaume where sacristy was left untouched. -When French Mission collected vestments, bombs had been connected and -exploded, killing eleven. - -Bombs up chimney with fire all ready to light. - -Slip trench with false bottom letting men through on spikes. - -Church furniture used to make crosses for German men. - -Poisoning wells and roots of young trees. Some trees left sawn halfway -in. - -Poisoned wine bottles, one out of several poisoned. - -Left perfect latrines. First time chain pulled, exploded. - -Tank traps, making hole before the tank. The crater is also mined. - -Party of Boche went around with English motor-car inspecting dumps. -Spoke English perfectly. Few days later dumps blown up. Boche also use -English aeroplanes. - -Not safe to walk over grass or earthy grass as bombs are strewn -everywhere. - -Bombs in potato-mashers. - -Boche military police on duty for five weeks in English front. - -Smoke bombs to blind tanks. Barrage of gas shells before our batteries, -so gunners have to work twelve to fifteen hours in gas-masks. - -Town hall at Bapaume blown up three days after occupation by British -troops, due to acid bombs. - -Umbrella left in stand attached to a mine. - -Gas clouds sent every ten yards apart in bunches of three (three each -ten yards). - -German deserter's family at home deprived of rations and separation -allowance. - -Boche found carrying machine-guns on stretchers to lines. - -_October 4th._ The above facts were given by the Padre last night from -notes he had made. He has been in the thick of the fighting and has -gone right along with his men all the time. - -Yesterday morning rode around with Lawson (Quartermaster) visiting the -Ordnance and Army Service Corps (Captain Bateson) dumps. Then to the -water head where the water is supplied to this section. Lunch, and -after that the Padre, McWilliams and I started out in the ambulance -for Vaux--a mass of wreckage. The Padre took us in a garden of a -once-château. The grounds were overgrown with weeds, but flowers still -struggled out of their old beds. The château was a pile of bricks, -beautiful trees were half cut through and left to die. Nothing but two -gateposts and a small segment of the outbuildings were left standing. -Such wanton destruction is simply appalling to see. About one hundred -and fifty shells were dropped on Vaux last night and from the edge of -the town one is fairly in sight of the German lines. The Padre lived in -the garden during the bombardment, and we saw the dugout that he and -his servant had built. - -From there we walked down the Mareuil Road, no vehicle or horses are -allowed to show themselves on the northern end of the town beyond the -cross-road, as the Mareuil Road is in clear view of the enemy. Gun -batteries were placed every here and there, carefully camouflaged, as -is everything. Two dummy guns stuck out in one place. The gunners live -along the roadside in small shelters with sandbag roofs. In the hollow -were two six-inch guns, which were firing a salvo of one hundred rounds -each at a section of Boche trench which was pushed too near to ours. -The target was 7,500 yards away over the crest of a hill. They fired -at intervals of about two minutes, first one and then the other. The -crash was tremendous. After watching them working for a while till my -ears rang, returned to Vaux and then took the ambulance to the A. D. -S. on Mareuil sector. This was well fitted up. In the past twenty-four -hours under cover of the haze they had run a narrow-gauge track up to -it. - -Back at five p. m. for tea and then to the Bow Bells. This is a -Divisional theatrical troupe, or, as it is officially known, a -Divisional Concert Party, of 56th Division. It was wonderfully -dramatic, as it was held in a partially demolished barn. They gave -a capital show. Good voices. Two of the men were superb in their -impersonation of women's parts. The show begins at six p. m. and was -simply crowded. Tickets have to be booked up days in advance. We groped -our way home as no searchlights can be shown on cars and had dinner at -a little after eight. On the way back Very lights were constantly going -up from the lines. Think of a first-class performance in a battered -village, three miles away from a world war, and you can in fact surmise -some of the sensations one has in watching it in a battered barn filled -with nearly a thousand men and officers. And they appreciated it like -children. - -In the evening Padre, Mackenzie and Lawson told stories until one -thirty a. m. A bully day-- - -Our 'phone call is "Pork." - -_October 5th._ Yesterday was comparatively quiet. It blew a hurricane -and in the afternoon rained hard. So we loafed about, gossiped, called -on some other messes, and in the evening dined with Captain Welsh 2/6 -West Yorks. He gave us a bully dinner, and several young officers were -there--Captains Humphrey and Baker--they did not look twenty. Humphrey, -Welsh said, had a wonderful record for bravery. He had already been -decorated. - -There has been a terrific barrage on since eleven a. m. We could hear -the roar all through dinner, and constantly Very lights were being -put up. The night was pitch black and we lost our way in the mud and -darkness in trying to get to the 2/6. - -This afternoon we went out with the Padre to A. D. S. at Eauze. We were -going out on the railway embankment toward St. Léger when they began a -pretty stiff bombardment (the English). Shells were hurled over from -all directions and the air fairly hummed. It stopped our trip and we -watched behind an old piece of wall the shells breaking on Bull-dog -Trench, the German front lines. Some were big 5·9's and they threw up a -perfectly enormous cloud of earth. - -We had tea in the A. D. S. with House and Blackburn. It is their casual -conversation that gives one the real sidelights on the situation. Fox, -an Engineer, was standing a bit down the road when a shell broke near -him. He came sauntering in as if it had been a rose-fall. When things -quieted down we walked down the road and joined some of the Engineers -for a bit of gossip. Then home in the ambulance. - -Took a short walk into a small German cemetery. Boche when he retreated -scratched off the number of the unit on every cross. - -_October 6th._ Rain. Nothing doing. Bitterly cold. - -_October 7th._ Bitter cold. Had ten blankets and still shivered. Went -to service this morning. It was one of the most impressive sights I -have ever seen. The Divisional Yorkshire Band. Most of the men were -going up the line and were in heavy marching order. It made shivers up -and down one's spine. - -We move to 45 C. C. S. this afternoon. Shall be sorry to go. - -_October 9th._ We moved to C. C. S. in a pouring rain and came into a -wallowing mud hole after dark. We got a real British reception and -were shown into a tent that contained nothing. "Have you a servant?" -was the first question. "We have not," was the answer. So they detailed -us the camp idiot. Mud, rain and a howling gale, and British stoicism. -They are not a bit like the nice bunch we left. - -There is nothing doing here but some trench fever cases (P. N. O.). -There is absolutely nothing to do or see, so we hang around in the wet -and cold and shiver. - -I am anxious to hear what became of the little Padre, because some of -the men were "going over the top" Sunday night, and he was going with -them. If it does not rain this afternoon, McW. and I will try and find -our way back there on foot for tea, as Colonel Lister said he would -send us back in the bus if we did. - -I shall be glad to be back at Chaumont again. - -_October 11th._ We are still at Casualty Clearing Station 45, and a -dreary hole it is. We tried to get away, but the D. D. M. S. would not -hear of it, so we must stay our week out. - -I am officer of the day to-day and am actually running H. M. C. C. S. -45, having inspected, etc., a detail of H. M.'s forces this morning. - -Tuesday we went to Greyvillers and saw C. C. S. 3. They seemed much -more alive there. And yesterday we were shown over C. C. S. 49, our -neighbor. - -It has rained the greater part of the time, with patches of sunshine -here and there for short intervals. - -Last night we went to Béhagnes to see the Pelicans' show. It was -wonderfully good, but not as interesting or amusing as Bow Bells at -the 56th Division. The Pelicans are the 62nd Division. We dined at the -Officers' Club there. There were somewhere between one hundred and -one hundred and fifty officers there, many fresh from the trenches. -They walked in--and drove in. There was a large well-patronized bar, -papers, and everything well appointed. At eight we went in to dinner, -and a very good one only not sufficient. Met Crab there and several -other officers I had met at the 2/1 West Riding. They were all most -agreeable. The Pelicans began at nine. We walked almost all the way -out and it was quite wonderful, as the battle-front was illuminated by -constant gun-fire and Very lights. It is hard to imagine that one is -only three or four miles away from it all. - -During the performance last night the gun-fire was constant, and a -battery somewhere behind our tent has kept going constantly now since -four p. m. yesterday. - -My duties as officer of the day are to inspect the camp detail, -outgoing men, censor letters, inspect kitchens, latrines, etc. Also, -I am in charge of Ward D. We shall leave Saturday morning at seven -forty-five. The British Army is all right, but this lot of men are -dead. I have yet failed to meet a British medical officer with any -range of vision. They are provincial to the last degree and thoroughly -self-satisfied. Those who have seen more of their work than I have -say that as a rule it is poor, but their cleanliness and general camp -sanitation is beyond criticism. - -This C. C. S. is 3rd Army, 6th Corps. The C. C. S. are attached to the -Army. The Commander is F. G. Fitzgerald. He just returned from leave -early this morning. - -_October 16th._ We left the C. C. S. Saturday morning after rather a -dreary week, as it was bitterly cold and raining every day. - -The train from Achet-le-Grand was crowded. We met Pool and his crowd, -stopped over at Amiens for lunch, paying a second visit to the -Cathedral. Then down to Paris, arriving at the Hotel Continental about -five p. m. I dined alone at the Café de Paris, and then back to bed. - -Sunday was beautiful, cool and clear, and a walk up to the Arc in the -morning was delightful. On the way down saw Dorziat for a half hour. -She was still in bed, although she said she was rehearsing daily. - -Called on H. C. and L. Havemeyer, but they were both out, and so ended -the day. - -Monday we started out for Chaumont, and so reached the old barracks -again. Everything just as we left it. Drew 226 francs travel allowance -this morning. To-morrow I am to take over three wards at Piercy. - -_October 21st._ A truly interesting day. Saturday we heard that four -Zeppelins had been brought down, one near here. So this morning -the Colonel sent down to Headquarters and found that one was near -Bourbonne-les-Bains.--H. James, Schwander, Russell, Colonel and I went -down in the Marmon car. It was a beautiful ride. We came on the Zep. -about one mile outside Bourbonne. It had come down across a little -ravine, the nose almost resting on the road. It was almost intact, the -forward car only having been smashed. Some of the gas-bags and the -rear end of the body seemed to be cracked. - -It was simply a marvelous bit of construction, and appeared like a -whale thrown up on land. Two hundred meters long and a wonderful frame -built of aluminum. The bombs had all been dropped. It was built like -a watch. I climbed into the forward car. The motor appeared intact -and the gauges and levers were all there just as they had been left. -It was all very wonderful. They had apparently lost their way and had -to come down on account of lack of petrol. The crew were all taken -prisoners. They tried to fire the machine, but were discovered in time -and prevented. - -We drove on after that to Bourbonne for lunch. The place was packed -with French and Americans. Every one seemed to have come out to see the -sight. Going in we saw the two officers dressed in suits of leather. -One turned and smiled at us as we passed. Schwander got permission for -us to talk to the prisoners, but they had all departed for Dijon when -we had finished lunch. - -On the way back we stopped and saw where the second had caught in the -tree tops. The forward car had been broken off by the contact and -fourteen men taken prisoners, but the remaining four got the Zep. going -again, and went along--to be captured later. The men captured first -burned the basket, but as we passed there was still a lot of wreckage -sticking in the trees. - -Every one was hunting for souvenirs, and they pocketed bits of the -linen envelope and particles of fused metal, perfectly worthless -objects. The Sergeant who captured the first lot of Boches told us that -one of the officers had a bottle of poison that he was going to drink -if caught. But on second thoughts he presented it to the Médecin Chef, -saying he knew the French wine was good as he had lived two years in -Paris working in a motor factory. - -Altogether we had a most delightful and interesting day's outing. - -On the way back we passed nearly a hundred motors with officers and -men. The road was filled with peasants going on foot, bicycle, or in -their crazy little carts packed in so thick that the poor horse could -scarcely drag them. The excitement all through the countryside was -intense. - -_October 28th._ Nothing of any particular interest during the past -week. Have charge of 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 wards, besides two -Sergeants' rooms. - -To-day Floyd leaves for a tour of inspection of camp sites, and I have -charge of the building. - -_October 30th._ One of the girls from Vittel honored me by a visit, -and while we were dining the military police rushed in and said there -was an impending air raid and that all men were ordered to quarters. I -thought I heard the hum of motors but was not sure. - -We are trying to collect a "fee allowance" for fees given on the -"Lapland" and "Grand Tulley Castle." This is at B's instigation, as he -was much piqued that I collected 26 francs more than he did in travel -allowance on our trip to the British front. - -Two letters from America arrived to-day, one posted July 26th, the -other August 6th. Some going! - -It has poured rain steadily for two days now, and everything is wet and -muddy. - -Miss Sheriff has gotten the officers' lounge almost ready for occupancy. - -_November 1st. All Saints' Day!_ And a wonderful clear day, not a cloud -in the sky and scarcely a breath of wind to scatter the falling leaves. -There was real joy in the air and everyone showed it. - -In the morning Miss A. came. Miss A. is one of the Red Cross and is -rummaging around, God knows why, because she cannot speak French, nor -does she know anything of hospitals. I showed her through my wards, -but it was all Greek to her. - -In the afternoon I started out on my bicycle. Rode to Noisy-sur-Seize -and then crossed the hills to Luzy. It was just sunset as I went over -the divide, and no one can describe the peaceful beauty of it all. -The church bells were tolling the Angelus, the long Angelus for the -repose of souls. Smoke curled up in thin, blue columns from the little -houses below in the valley, and the slanting rays of the sinking sun -lit up woods and meadows with a wonderful golden glow. It lasted for -a few minutes and slowly died out, and always the bells, ringing out -the fading day. I sat on the crest of the hill and watched the last -shadows, and then went on down into Luzy in the gray twilight, and so -on home. - -The Padre (Burnett) was in the room, and a hot discussion was in -progress on the All Hallowe'en dance, which was given for all enlisted -men, nurses and officers. - -_November 4th._ I am now senior medical officer, Floyd having been -called away to organize some hospital. - -Major Lewis shot himself last night (suicide) down in the pretty little -château at Chamaronde. Alfred Stillman was called down. He found him -lying with the automatic revolver in his hand. - -Peck and Cave have returned from the French front where they were -working for five weeks. They are full of it, saying they were treated -royally. - -_November 8th._ The same old story.--Last night dined with Kilbane at -Luzy. Rain and general slow times. - -_November 12th._ The times are absolutely uneventful, and the life is -monastic. Am taking over an American ward to-day. The Medical Chief -told me I was holding too many patients and I must discharge them. It -seems pretty rough, as there is hardly one that is fit to return to -duty in the strict sense, but he says France lacks man power and that -is their sacrifice. Their food in hospital is inadequate and miserably -prepared. It seems a poor economy, because if they were well cared for -they would be able so much sooner to return to duty. This is the first -day the sun has shone. - -_November 24th._ We received over two hundred Americans and three -hundred and twenty odd French in the past forty-eight hours. The work -has been very severe--practically only Henry James and myself to do -it, as Martin and Peightel were both sent on other details. The C. O. -knew they were coming, but we had no official notification. Everything -was pandemonium, and still is. I made nearly seventy-five physical -examinations per day, besides having the general directions. It was -pretty strenuous and I don't think it is over yet. - -Have been talking with Colonel Mitchell to-night. He is the head of -the U. S. Aviation--a bright, able man. He says Germany has won the -war from the military standpoint. The French man power is gone; Great -Britain has made too many blunders--and now the Italian business, which -was rather expected. It all certainly looks pretty dreary to me. - -_November 28th._ Sergeant Hartman died of pneumonia and was buried -to-day. A full military funeral with the 101st Engineers Band. He is -the first one of us. It was very solemn and impressive. The Padre read -the service in Pavillion Raymond, and then his body was put on the -ambulance and we started for the cemetery, the band leading, then the -hearse, the body draped in the American flag and covered with flowers. -Twelve of the officers followed, Peck, Jim, Reed and self walking in -the first column of fours, the men followed, about sixty of them, and -then an ambulance with the nurses. We went down to the cemetery where -at least two hundred French were gathered. We stood at attention while -"Taps" were sounded, and then we turned and walked away, leaving him -alone in France, looking over the valley. He had done his bit and done -it well. - -The corner of the little French cemetery is beginning to fill. - -_November 29th. Thanksgiving Day._ From early morn every one has been -smacking his lips and thinking and talking and dreaming of food. We got -ours at one thirty. Of course, they had to ask in some of the 101st -Engineers, and they have been hanging around our rooms all afternoon -waiting for the dance. The dance is yet to come, but all is enthusiasm. -The 101st Band played in the compound in the afternoon. At present -there is a great hustle and bustle, hammering and knocking around in -general. - -My little sergeant leaves me to-night. A dapper little gentleman. I got -him in the dining-room and stuffed him full of turkey, red wine and -mince pie. He is a finely made fellow. In twenty days he returns to -the front. Ganthor is his name. - -My new uniform has come home after a three months' struggle to get it, -and, of course, it does not fit. - -Now for the dance! - -_December 9th._ Thanksgiving has come and gone. The dance was generally -reckoned a great success. The 101st Band of Engineers was very fine, -but the punch put the punch in the evening, and it had plenty of spirit. - -Since then things have moved along uneventfully. H. James and Calvin -Coulter left the next morning for Boulogne, so Martin and I have -practically carried on the medical service, aided by John Williams. -The officers' quarters have been running heavily, but no particularly -interesting cases anywhere. - -Last night Jim Russell had a birthday and asked some of us down to eat -an exceedingly good ham, and we had champagne. - -Life is becoming about as eventful as a monastery and goes on with -the same regularity. It is rounds, meals and a little reading, with an -occasional walk. Every one is coughing and snuffling. James and Coulter -are expected back to-morrow, and I hope about a week from to-day -we--Martin and self--will get off. If all goes well I hope to spend -Christmas in Paris. - -_December 12th._ Martin and I leave Friday for Boulogne, spending -Saturday in Paris. James will be in charge of the medical service. It -will be very nice to get away, but I hope they give me back my function -as chief of the medical service when I return. - -The French seem to make absolutely no preparation for Christmas. There -is not an extra ribbon hung in any shop, and in fact the only signs of -Christmas are the bundles in pink ribbon that keep arriving for the -men--they are many. I imagine pretty many are homesick. - -Henry James and Coulter got back Monday from their trip to Boulogne. -Henry said it was well worth while and seems to have enjoyed it very -much. - -Every one is coughing. Bronchitis is rife, and is running a very -virulent course. An autopsy on one of the men yesterday showed the -bronchia to be filled with pus. This was especially true in the smaller -ramifications. They die from an apparent sepsis and are fine examples -of a purulent bronchitis. McW., James, Stillman are all coughing and -sneezing. Practically all the younger men have been in hospital with -bronchitis, or influenza. I fear that our sick reports are running, and -will continue to run, very heavy this winter, with a comparatively high -mortality. - -We had news yesterday that the Engineers of the line of communication -would not take half the building over, which means that we are going to -stay here and that the whole place will be run as a hospital. - -Kilbane and Steiner left for Paris to-night to blow off steam. - -_December 15th._ _Paris!_ Martin and I arrived last night and came to -the Wagram. This morning, it is not yet nine, we have had our "café -complet" in our rooms which are overlooking the Tuileries Gardens. The -Louvre and the Panthéon are golden tinged in the early sunlight. It is -like a spring morning and a great joy to be away from the routine. - -_December 18th._ _Boulogne._ Mostly medical. Arrived here Sunday -night. In the arms of the English. General high prices and bad manners -prevail. Hotel Folkestone. We met Pool and Burt Lee in the dining-room -on arrival Monday. Saw Cushing and Harvard Unit, then No. 3 Canadian -and McCree, who showed us some of his chest work. Robinson of Harvard -Unit has been doing some good blood work. - -Lunch with Colonel Evans at Stationary Hospital 14. Walk home along the -cliffs with a great dirigible balloon hovering over the sea. In the -afternoon Robinson read his paper on transfusions and the preservation -of blood. - -Last night and again to-night Boche aeroplanes over the city and all -lights suddenly turned out about five p.m. The city was literally in -inky blackness, save for the pale flicker of the moon. Two wonderful -clear cold days. The atmosphere of the place is distinctly one of -depression. They all admit the situation is serious. - -_December 24th._ We left Boulogne last Thursday and started for -Paris. The train was packed with "permissionaires" and all in a -very jolly humor. The trip was well worth while, because it gave -me many suggestions of the problems of war medicine. The crowd was -terrific when we arrived in Paris--no taxis, so we struggled with the -complications of the metro, finally reaching the Wagram. - -Friday visited Vidal at Hospital Cochin. He had his clinic. We waited -for him and met him in his ante-room. He was most cordial. The man has -done a tremendous amount of literary work. There were volumes of it. He -is a thickset, forcible man of about forty-eight or fifty. - -I lunched with Lillie H. that afternoon where she had Cross and a Miss -McCook, Y. M. C. A. In the evening dined with Henry Clews, who was in -good form and opened up in the old style. Saturday L. lunched with me -and in the evening I dined with Mrs. Stuart. Friday afternoon saw Madam -A., an American woman with a Dutch husband. P. wanted me to see her. -Stupid old thing, as deaf as a post. - -Martin left me this morning. Am alone now till Wednesday or Thursday, -and then back again. - -_December 27th._ Returned from Paris with S. Ground white with snow. -They all seemed glad to see me. Evidently Christmas was a great -success. A full round of drinks, and they say all were happy, the -Colonel included. The place is packed with patients. Y. M. C. A. tent -is up and for the present filled with cots--cots in the corridors, so -we are in now for a lively time. - - - - -1918 - - -_January 18th._ Since last writing nothing of great importance has -taken place. - -My recommendation for a majority was sent to Washington about ten -days ago by Colonel Hansell. I hope it goes through and goes through -quickly. The snow has all disappeared and beautiful, glorious mud -reigns in its place. The Colonel is trying to jack up discipline--God -knows it needs it. I caught one man staggering home dead drunk and had -the pleasure of putting him under arrest. Blankets are being taken -and electric-light bulbs. The same old lazy American methods. Saw our -officers walking along the roads in their long coats, pretty sloppy -looking objects. You cannot make a soldier unless you dress him in a -soldierly fashion. The everlasting cry is we are a young country and -it takes us time to learn, but, damnation, does it take one hundred -and fifty years? Why could not our Government have attended to these -matters twenty-five years ago? - -_February 1st._ Kilbane, Steiner and myself are off in the morning for -our seven days' vacation. We are going to Nice, motoring to Dijon where -we hope to be able to catch the train or rather get accommodations on a -train, as we hear everything is crowded. - -Took my physical exam. for majority two days ago, Martin examining. - -We have had a wonderful fifteen days of clear weather, half of -them quite summery, but for the most part the air is very damp and -penetrating. - -_February 14th._ Back in Nice, with one day in Paris. We caught the -train from Dijon at one thirty a.m., and stood up the balance of the -night in the corridor as there were no seats--men and women stretched -out full length lying on the floor. Reached Marseilles at twelve noon -the next day, and stopped off for the balance of the day and night, -taking the express next morning. Beautiful country. Stopped at Nice at -the Hotel Negresco. First class. Perfect weather. - -We have twelve new M. C. nurses and enlisted men. A perfect mob now, -but they seem a fairly decent lot. Same old job, except this time I am -to start some fool work on food with a test squad of fifty men. Cannot -make out any point to it, except they want to find out how much waste -there is in preparation of food. - -_February 22nd._ Was sworn in as Major this morning by Colonel Island. - -_February 28th._ Howard Peck died. - -_March 1st._ Howard's funeral. 6th Artillery brass band, and all walked -down to the new American Cemetery. Poor Major Peck! - -_March 2nd._ We heard two weeks ago that Alfred Stillman's brother was -killed while flying. Alfred has been in London, having left on receipt -of the news. - -There are twelve new raw-boned Southerners added to our Unit since my -return from Nice. - -This morning we sent two operating teams to American C.C.S. No. 1, -McWilliams among them. Armitage Whittman has taken Henry James's bed in -our rooms. He seems to be a nice fellow. Stuart Benson, Paul Draper, -Beekman Hoppin and Mrs. "Bordie" Harriman have all turned up at one -time or another. - -_March 9th._ Alfred Stillman and I got a motor and rode out to American -C.C.S. No. 1, just north of Toul--a beautiful spring day and a very -pleasant trip. We lunched and dined at the Officers' Club, Neufchâteau, -which sports a fine bar. - -_March 10th._ Last night some of the convalescent officers got two -motors and we went down and saw Elsie Janis. She told stories, sang -songs and danced for an hour and fifteen minutes. It was a delightful -performance, she was so perfectly natural and joked and talked with the -audience. - -_March 14th._ Am leaving for Paris for two days to-night with Major -Malone. - -_March 23rd._ This has been an eventful day. In the first place, -Colonel Hansell and Major Peck went on their vacations and I was left -C.O., which entails many fussy details. Then this afternoon Colonel -Mitchell of the Flying Corps, who was recently a patient of mine at -the Officers' Pavillion, paid me a call, asked me to motor out to Hill -412 Aerodrome with him, and sent me off on an aeroplane flight with a -French pilot. - -It was a wonderful sensation. We flew about twenty miles, circling over -Chaumont and the hospital. Words cannot describe it. It has all the -thrill of flying. The woods looked like little bunches of moss. We flew -over the Canal, which had the color of bright emerald. The Flying Corps -for me, if it wasn't for this cursed age. - -_April 4th._ This is approximately the tenth day of the great battle. -For many days we have all been very anxious, but now a rapid feeling -of confidence has arisen that the enemy is held. - -Have been Commanding Officer at the hospital for the past thirteen -days, the Colonel and Peck having taken their vacation in Nice. - -_April 19th._ _Paris_--Medical conference. Hansell and I roomed -together. I heard the big gun go off twice, otherwise all was quiet. - -Alexander Lambert asked me to dine with him. There were eight at -dinner--his wife, Major Strong and wife, and Colonel Island, also -Colonels Martin and Cummings of the English Army. While there Major -Thayer told me I was to be detailed to one of the Divisions as -Divisional Consultant. I was much pleased, as the news was a great -surprise, for among all the wire-pulling I hardly expected to have -anything good handed out unsolicited. - -_April 25th._ Orders to proceed to Neufchâteau. Threw the necessities -in my old grip, rolled up the bedding and off in a Ford ambulance. Of -course, all haste was unnecessary, as when I got in Major Thayer was -away and Boggs, the Assistant Director of Medical Service, had gone to -Chaumont. Saw Finney, who invited me to lunch--one of those sweetly -solemn male luncheons where every one was afraid to say anything. - -Later that day Boggs turned up and we talked over affairs. The -Consultant has charge and direction of all cases in his department. My -orders were in a measure vague, and I should imagine it was largely up -to me to create the position. - -Spent the night at the Officers' Club and next day, Saturday, motored -with Finney and Boggs to C. C. S. No. 1 at Sevastepol where we lunched. -Saw Pool and McWilliams. The latter has gotten very fat. From there -we went on to Bucy, the 26th Division Headquarters, situated in a -charming old Norman château with beautiful grounds, and from the -terrace a superb view overlooking "Bocheland." It seemed a sacrilege -to desecrate the grounds. Guns were booming in the distance, and the -streets of the village were full of United States troops and transports. - -For fifteen miles and more behind the lines, the French were digging -entrenchments and erecting barbed wire. They are evidently taking no -chances. - -My original orders were not sufficiently comprehensive, so Sunday -returned to Chaumont with Brewer, and here I am (May 3rd) waiting -further orders before embarking on my new mission. - -_May 6th._ The new mission was just on the point of materializing when -the 'phone rang and I was told, with Colonel Keller's compliments, to -"disregard my orders." I felt like one personally conducted to hell and -abandoned. Dumped for some reason. It was cruel. I debated for some -time and then walked down to H. Q. and saw K. All the satisfaction -obtainable was that the 2nd Division was coming out of the line and -that a general reorganization was pending and to sit tight for further -orders, which would surely come, and I would not be forgotten. Said he -was not at liberty to divulge their plans further, and then changed the -subject and talked about Colonel Reno's death by suicide, saying he was -his best friend and showing me a letter from his wife. - -Moved our mess-hall over on the south end of the ground. Not much to -do, and every one depressed and gloomy. Cadwalader and Stillman having -their afternoon naps. Saw Major Flint last night at Hotel France--said -John Alsop was with him. Paul Draper regaled us yesterday with his days -of prosperity. It was a very wonderful story. - - - - -PART II - -_With the 42nd (Rainbow) Division_ - - - - -1918 - - -_November 18th._ It has been many months since I have attempted to -write anything, for the principal reason that shortly after the last -entry I was sent to the 42nd Division as Medical Consultant. The -Division was at Baccarat. At the time of my journey George E. Brewer of -New York was the Surgical Consultant, and for the first two weeks we -roomed together. Later I got a billet for myself over by the railroad. - -It was a great relief to get away from the stuffy monotony of 15. The -country was beautiful, and the opportunity to roam around and enter -into the life of the war was very refreshing. We had a nice mess, not -far from our billets--Sanford, Sam Arnold, "Sister" Rennis (Y.M.C.A.), -I. N. Perry (Red Cross), Brewer and myself. Brewer was the cock o' the -walk. Henry Sanford was Division Neurologist. - -We had an epidemic of what we called "three day flu"--really, I think, -grippe. Something like forty cases of pneumonia resulted from it. They -ran a very protracted course and the incidence of empyema was high. - -While at Baccarat I took many little side trips with Brewer in his -motor. According to rules, I was entitled to a motor, but in spite of -constant efforts I never got it and it did much to cripple my work with -the Division. - -Aside from gas attacks there was not much activity in the line. We had -several nasty gas attacks. Jaspar Coglan was gas officer and seemed -very efficient, but in spite of everything he did, they would get us in -much too large proportions. - -I drove out almost every day inspecting the regimental aid posts. The -Division area was about twenty-five square miles. At one place where -there was a gap in the woods, the trees had been shot away; when the -Germans saw the dust of the motor they would put over a few shells, -but they always broke behind us. Although the line was comparatively -quiet, there was always more or less of a thrill in making these trips. - -About the middle of June rumors began to spread. One, that we were -to move up north and that "big business" was soon to begin. Finally -officers from the 77th blew in to look the ground over, and then we -knew they were the relieving division and that we were to go. In a day -or two the jam in the street was terrific. 42nd moving out--77th coming -in. - -I motored in advance one morning, about the twentieth of June, to a -charming little French town--Châtel. We spent two days here. A pleasant -billet and days of real rest after a month's hard work. - -The Division was slowly moving north to an unknown destination, some of -it by train (the infantry)--the artillery and other overland. We found -out that it would be somewhere in the neighborhood of Châlons, so -started on ahead. We were finally assigned to a sector, of which the -town of Souain was the center, about twenty-five kilometers north of -Châlons. Medical headquarters at Vardanay. - -While there visited Châlons many times and had some excellent dinners -at the Hôtel Angleterre, which was afterward totally destroyed by a -bomb. Also had a most interesting lunch with General Gouraud, to whose -4th Army we were attached. General Gouraud sent us to Verdun, where -we were well entertained by Colonel Dehays, and lunched with General -Hirschauer, the Commander of the Army of Verdun. It was all wonderfully -interesting. The view from Fort St. Nicholas was grand, but we were -shelled heartily while enjoying it. The whole country is devastated. - -The days were full of new and interesting experiences. The end of -June found me in a little peasant house at Vardanay across the way -from the church. Our mess was in a combination schoolhouse and café, -just to the right of the church. Madame Michel was the old lady -proprietor's name. I had a little room under the roof, papered with -daily newspapers. She had a nice little garden. After our mess we would -congregate there and discuss what news there was. - -It was pretty evident that they expected Fritz to start his next -push somewhere in that neighborhood, as there were very extensive -preparations being made. Troops and guns were arriving in large -quantities every night, and all night long truck-loads of supplies -were rumbling by my billet. Bussy-le-Château, about twenty kilos to -our east, was chosen for our evacuation hospital, and two of our field -hospitals, together with Mobile No. 2 (Captain St. John) were installed -there. Walter Cannon came with a shock team, and I think we had either -ten or twelve surgical teams. - -I made almost daily trips in to Souain and the different positions -held by our men. Toward the west (Rheims) there was almost constant -bombarding, and at night the sky was brilliantly illuminated with gun -flashes and rockets, but on our immediate sector there was almost an -ominous quiet. Our artillery put over a daily barrage, but scarcely a -shell came in. - -Everything was ready, and still nothing happened. All sorts of rumors -were afloat, that the attack would probably develop elsewhere, etc. -In the evening after dark it was my habit to walk out on the plains -and watch the artillery at work. The night of the fourteenth of July -was cloudy, and it had been blowing a gale from the south all day. The -guns were all very active, some shells coming in. The gale blew so that -standing two hundred yards from the 155 mms. I could hardly hear the -report. Starting the homeward trip about eleven against the wind, it -almost made walking impossible. It seemed surely as if nothing would -happen that night. - -I had just undressed and blown the candle out, when crash and a roar. -I knew what had happened and jumped from bed, pulling on a shirt, -trousers and boots, without stopping to lace them. Before I had -finished shells were dropping in Vardanay, many of them singing over -the roof. As I ran down the stairs poor old Madame Michel met me. I -sent her to the remains of the old Roman catacombs under the garden, -and walked out into the road after fumbling with the gate for what -seemed an age, trying to find the key and get it in the lock. While I -was fussing a house further down the street was struck and dust and -splinters dropped all over me. - -I met Fairchild (D. S. Fairchild, Chief Surgeon, 42nd Division). His -motor was waiting, and we got in and started east toward Bussy. I -looked at my watch--it was twelve ten. - -The roar of the artillery was so great that we had to yell to make -ourselves heard. Shells were flying over our heads, breaking on both -sides of the road. Where the road turned north for a few hundred yards -our motor suddenly stopped. The chauffeur managed to make it run again, -but as we waited shells were constantly screeching over our heads. - -We reached Bussy in due time. The roads were crowded with all manner of -transport, and we crawled along, the only light being the gun flashes. - -At Bussy all was ready. The first wounded began coming in about two a. -m. At the same time the Boche opened fire on the hospital. At first -the shots were wild, but with the break of day and probably aerial -observation, they began getting direct hits. After three or four -we decided to send nurses below and evacuate patients to dugouts, -and, after further consultation, to fall back on the other two field -hospitals and Evacuation 4 at Écury-sur-Coole. These had been prepared -in advance for just such a contingency. - -The nurses left first. I took charge of the patients, and -superintended the loading of them on ambulances and got the whole lot -loaded in a little over an hour. - -I had no leggings, in fact had nothing but trousers, socks, shirt and -jacket, so while we were waiting for transportation to move with, I -went in and Allison loaned me a razor with which I started to shave, -but while I was all lathered and had just commenced, they began -shelling again. I kept on, but had a good many nicks on my face, for I -could not keep my hand from jerking when they whizzed over. About five -minutes after I left the hut it was struck and completely demolished. - -Got down to Écury in time for a bite to eat (lunched with Campbell), -then went back to Triage where I had been working all night. Short of -ambulances. Sent Fagely out to find trucks. He got some thirty Q. M. -trucks and pressed them into service. Majorie Nott and several other R. -C. women came on the scene, making coffee and sandwiches. - -Wounded pouring in. Triage crowded. A. lost his head and was flying -around like a madman. Many necessaries lacking. Profanity flying. -Night. Dare not show a light. Promptly at ten p.m. air full of avions, -dropping twenty or more bombs on Châlons. Saw three large fires. -Wounded coming in all night. Six operating teams going, but not half -enough. They can't nearly handle the work, and too many men kept -waiting who need urgent attention. - -Two p. m. Avions again over Châlons and us. More bombing. The sky full -of searchlights. Dawn. Almost dead. Two nights and a day, but the -wounded still coming in. At seven a.m. am relieved by some one. Go down -and climb in Spielman's bed and sleep till ten a. m., then go on duty. - -Third night. Châlons bombed. Aviator flew over us. He could not have -been one hundred feet above the tents, and in the moonlight clearly -visible. He dropped two bombs. No one hurt. Don't remember how long -exactly we stayed here, but think it was eight or ten days. Châlons -bombed nightly. - -About the sixth day returned to Vardanay. The house was locked and -Madame M. gone, but climbed in the window, got my belongings and put -them in the motor. The village was deserted, save for a few old women -and a child. They sat around the mouth of the cave and went below -whenever the shelling started. It was a pathetic sight. I left some -money with them, which surprised them more than the shells. - -There is a lot of talk about the rotten way things were handled in -general. Not enough ambulances, nor general equipment, and such as we -had was antiquated. - -About July 24th or 25th, orders to move. Where, no one knows. Started -cross country with field hospitals, going west. - -Château-Thierry. Started in all over again. Night and day wounded -pouring in. Insufficient ambulances. Insufficient hospitalization. Not -an evacuation hospital on the scene till the main push is over. Two -field hospitals taking the brunt of the work. Transporting wounded in -trucks thirty-five kilometers clear to Commercy. - -Pushed on with the troops to Épieds and later to Fère-en-Tardenois. -Much evidence that the Boche is beating a hasty retreat, from the -quantities of stores and munitions left behind. - -Considerable bombing. Was almost caught on the road by three bombs -returning from La Ferté with Perry. - -We pulled out the end of August and left for Bourmont near Chaumont. -En route spent three delightful days in a small French château in -Lysantry, five kilometers from La Ferté. The old caretaker cooked for -me and I ate under the trees. I hated to go. - -We understand the Division gets thirty days' rest, but we get seven, -then orders to move. All night groping our way in the dark, arrive in -Longchamps at dawn in a drizzling rain. I knocked on the door of the -first house in the village and after a long pause was admitted by a -very old man. He had a fine spare room and without undressing I wrapped -myself in blankets and fell asleep. The old man was eighty-six and his -wife eighty-four. They lived there all alone. - -Next day moved to Chatenois two kilometers away where headquarters -were. No news of probable destination. Three nights later another move, -this time to Germiny on the road to Toul, or rather just off it. Dirty -little place, but got a fair billet. Two nights here, then all night on -the road, arrived at Bicqueley in early morning and camped by roadside -thirty-six hours (B. is ten kilometers south of Toul). Later on to -Bruley. Rotten billets. The place is full of French and everything is -crowded. Rain and mud. - -Probably the attack will be at St. Mihiel. - -Saw a ghastly notice posted in the Y. M. C. A. to the effect that if -any of our men were taken prisoner and questioned to say nothing; that -torture would undoubtedly be used, and that such men would never be -allowed to return alive, no matter what they said. It ended by saying -let them meet Eternity with the knowledge they had done their duty. It -gave me a thrill as I read it. - -At most of our stops I have been fortunate in finding French families -where I could get something to eat. - -It is St. Mihiel. We move to Ansauville. The attack commences--I forget -the date. In fact, one seldom knows it. We are in advance of the -heavies, they firing over our heads. The show opens at one thirty a. m. -It is drizzling. The fire is very intense, but nothing like Souain. - -By four p.m. the guns ease off and the men go over. Met Normand who -was in charge of Vittel, also a Major Finck, a fine man. They asked me -to billet with them. The whole place is shot to pieces and there is -scarcely any shelter to be found. We three, and sometimes a fourth -casual, sleep in a kitchen. It is about the only place that has half a -roof. - -Later next day Normand and I pushed north with the advancing troops. -The roads were simply jammed, but we followed up, finally getting into -Essie. Every one is wild with enthusiasm, for the Boche is simply on -the run. Groups of German prisoners are constantly passing us on the -road down. Many have their knapsacks all packed, so must have been -expecting us. I counted over eleven hundred going through the fields. -They certainly make a most cheering sight. - -We pass through several small towns, nothing but a mass of rubble now. -The balloons are all moving forward. - -Essie is a mass of ruins. The 82nd Division is holding the place. None -of the transports have come up and there is still intermittent shelling. - -The 42nd's triage is here in a cellar. We met and talked to a large -number of the liberated civilians. They were happy, but very quiet. -Most of them were old people. One woman had a baby by a Boche. Every -one pointed her and it out, but it was more in the spirit of historical -interest than anything else. An unfortunate accident. She clutched the -baby as if in her eyes it was a perfectly good infant. - -Toward night we made our way back and the next day started for -Thiaucourt to help get out the civil population. The town was fairly -intact when we first entered it, but while we were there they started -up a violent artillery action. Soon buildings began to go. Most of the -shelling was for one of their ammunition dumps they had abandoned in -their precipitous flight. However, a little later the guns were turned -on the town. - -We got out all the civilians without any casualties. I have heard -since that the place is completely wrecked. They kept on shelling it -intermittently until November 11th. - -A few days later we went out to Pont-à-Mousson. (We referring to -Normand and myself.) The action had shifted more to the east, judging -from the intensity of the artillery action. We passed out along the -Thierry road. The lines had, of course, all pushed forward, but the -place was just lined with the old gun emplacements. As our road -gradually neared the Boche lines one could hear that a very heavy -duel was in progress. We continued to the cross-road which turns into -Pont-à-Mousson. Shells were dropping here every three minutes. We timed -them, and when one exploded, beat it, full steam ahead. Our batteries -were more terrifying than Fritz's, because they were on both sides of -the road and were going off right under your nose. - -When we arrived in the town things were very active. We took shelter -in an abri for a time, but as most of the shells were passing over, -searching out our "heavies" behind the town, we decided to walk along, -across the river and climb into Mousson, a high conical hill where the -French observation post was. It was a long, hot pull with a constant -accompaniment of whistling shells, but when we got there it was well -worth while. - -The post was on the very top in some partially demolished buildings, -the view from whence was superb. One, with the aid of the glass, could -see Metz distinctly, even reading the time on the Cathedral clock. - -Five hundred yards across to the next hill was the German observation -post, but "noblesse oblige," they left one another alone. Below, across -the river, were three German towns with the peasants working quietly in -the fields, and right across the river was one of the Crown Prince's -many châteaux, untouched, although one of our 75's could have blown it -to fragments in five minutes. - -As the gun-fire was likely to increase rather than diminish with -sunset, we started down the hill and back through Pont-à-Mousson. -The place was all but deserted, only a few Americans hanging around -the mouths of abris. We found our motor and driver, however, after -some little search, keeping careful lookout in the meanwhile where the -shells were falling. Just as we were leaving the town two 77's broke in -the road behind us, but doing no further damage than to cover us in a -cloud of earth. - -Two days later ordered to move forward and accordingly took position -at Beaumont just behind Sains made famous by the stand of the Marines -earlier in the summer. - -Beaumont was nothing but a mass of wreckage and mud. We pitched the two -field hospitals on the ground floor of all that remained of an old-time -château, while the officers lived in the abandoned French dugouts. -These were fairly comfortable, but infested with rats. The whole place -is a sea of mud and filth. - -During most of the St. Mihiel drive we had fine weather, except the -first three days. The drive started September 12th, with the moon in -the first quarter, consequently we had great German aerial activity. -One evening a Boche plane was brought down by one of our men just at -sunset. Both Germans were killed. Every night planes flew over our -heads all night, but fortunately nothing fell near us. - - * * * * * * * * - -On September 26th I was detached from the 42nd Division and sent as -Medical Consultant to the Justice Group of seven hospitals at Toul. H. -C. Madden (Lt.-Col.) was Commanding Officer--an efficient man. The work -here is purely medical and very tame after the Division. I was much -disappointed as Thayer had promised me the 3rd Army Corps. - -Toul is a dreary place and the darkest corner of France I have found. -I have tried to organize the service, a thing requiring some tact, as -each hospital has an excellent chief of its own medical service. - -On October 6th I got into Paris for the Red Cross medical meeting. It -was my first sight of real civilization since the previous April when I -hated the everlasting dreary nights. However, this time it did not make -much difference, as I was dog-tired and only too glad to turn in after -dinner. Spirits are brighter moreover with the continuing good news. *** - - -_The Last Salvo_ - -_November 11th._ _The last salvo was fired at eleven this morning!_ -While I was in Paris called on L. There were two old chatterboxes there -who cackled about divorces and clothes. It gave me such a strange -sensation and seemed so unreal and trivial. I suppose the world must go -on in spite of war--"battle, murder and sudden death." - -_November 18th._ Was commissioned Lieutenant-Colonel to-day and walked -down town and bought some silver leaves in the afternoon. - -On November 3rd a telegram from Helen telling me that dear father had -died on the tenth of October. I had expected it, but it was a shock. - -_November 24th._ Have just returned from what I hope will be the last -Paris medical meeting. I want to get home, and kicking about the city -is pretty dreary. Called on every one I knew. Saw Dorziat and Lucien -Guitry in "Samson" and supped at Maxim's. - -Have applied for home, and am hoping with all my heart that it will go -through. Work over here is an awful anti-climax now. - -_December 6th._ Toul. Called up Neufchâteau three days ago and spoke to -Major McLean. General Thayer, as usual, was not there. However, McLean -told me I would get my home orders. The same night Colonel Thornburgh -told me he had arranged matters so I could go, but now it was necessary -to wait for my rating card before the final orders could be issued, so -here I am, waiting. - -Last night we went over to a musical show at the Marshal Ney Barracks. -It was very poor--absolutely devoid of imagination or humor. - -This morning I got the motor after some scrapping and took Yocum, -Hodges and Kennon over to Metz. We went via Pont-à-Mousson. There -was a thick fog which practically obscured the views. As we passed -through Pont-à-Mousson I could not but think of the time I was last -there with Normand when shells were coming and going all the time. The -road was still fairly full of transports, but nothing like old times. -Pont-à-Mousson was more shot up than when I last saw it, and it was -almost deserted. - -From there we soon ran into German territory, with old gun -emplacements, camouflage and ruined buildings all along the road. - -Metz was gaily decorated with flags, and the streets were gay with -French and Americans, but the whole air suggested a conquered city. -Some shops had posted "Maison Française" on the door; painters were -rapidly changing the signs from German to French. The Hotel welcomed -one, but everywhere it was with the air of the conqueror. The people -were frightened and did not know what was going to happen. There -were only eight thousand real Alsace-Lorraines in the city, so an -intelligent German officer told me, and most of the "hurrahing" was -done from policy. - -Boys and men were doing a thriving business in selling Boche souvenirs. -Iron crosses and belts being their specialty. And the Americans were -the victims, especially the large army who fought the war in swivel -chairs and are seeing the front for the first time. - -In spite of all tales to the contrary, the shops seemed full, -especially the provision stores. Prices are very high. I saw plain -women's hats, that are generally seen at a store like Macy's piled by -hundreds in a box and selling for fifty cents, marked fifty and sixty -francs. There was no rubber, so bicycle tires were made of a steel -spring arrangement and one of rope. Shoes had wooden soles. - -We had a very good plain dinner, but paid ten francs for what -ordinarily would have been about three marks. The beer was simply -bitter water. - -Coming home we passed on the other bank of the Moselle and back through -Lorry, Fleury, Meiul-la-Tour, and so home, but the roads were all -deserted--so very different from my previous visits. - -_December 12th._ Yesterday Fullerton (Major Robert Fullerton of St. -Louis) asked me to go to Montfaucon and Varennes with him. We started -this morning at eight a. m. in a drizzling rain and fog. - -On our way out we went through Commercy, St. Mihiel and Verdun. The -latter looked much tidier than when I saw it in July with Brewer. Out -of Verdun through the Gate St. Paul into the beyond on the Montfaucon -road, the battlefield is still fresh. The destruction is worse than -anything I have so far seen. The earth for miles is torn with shells, -one hole knocked out and then the edge of that hole knocked into -another. Several of the holes were twelve to fourteen feet deep, and -thirty-five or forty feet across. Everywhere was wreckage; gunners' -positions, guns (77's), machine guns, clothes, rifles and quantities of -Boche ammunition; all the towns about were obliterated. - -While we were waiting at the former Crown Prince's house, the owner -turned up after an absence of four years and three months. I wish I -could describe the scene. She was a plump little woman of fifty-five or -more. Two men friends drove her out from somewhere. We were standing in -the door when she descended from the old trap. She came in through the -mud and announced in a cheery voice that this was her old home. There -was a little tremor in her voice when she turned and said: "There was -the salle-à-manger, but gentlemen, as you see, it is all no more. We -left it at two a. m. September 2nd, 1914, and with it everything in my -life departed." Still the voice was cheery. "My husband, son-in-law and -two sons have been killed. My grandfather, who was buried over there -(pointing) has been turned out of his grave." She then looked around a -few minutes, gazing in a wistful way, then walked out the front door, -turned and looked back at the mass of wreckage. Her lips trembled, she -covered her mouth with her hand, and we heard a few soft sobs. Then she -quietly turned, pulled up her skirts and tramped out into the muddy -road. - -Cressy à Varennes. We passed through there on the way back. Like -the other neighboring towns it only exists in name. The same utter -desolation, shell holes, tin cans, wire, guns, shells, fog and rain. -Nothing can ever picture the dreary awfulness of it all. It looked as -if the sun had faded and we were at the end of the world, stepping into -the Infinite. - -Back to Toul at seven and it was good to see a few lights burning in -the homes. - -_December 13th._ Raining hard all day, but very warm and balmy. -Cornelia Landon and Rose Saltonstall of Boston are at our mess for -a few days. I asked Colonel Thornburgh to invite them, as they were -billeted here and sick. The Madame told me there were two sick -Americans down there, and I was much surprised to see little Landon. -Saltonstall is very bright and attractive. We don't see much of them, -for they only show up for lunch, playing in the evening. - -It seems strange to be sitting December 13th with your window open, -enjoying the efforts of the moon to work through the clouds. - -_December 15th._ Went to Neufchâteau on the excuse of seeing Thayer, -who was not there. A beautiful sunny day. Met Tommy Robertson at the -Officers' Club and had a fairly good representation of a real cocktail. - -Landon and Saltonstall left this morning. I did not see them again, -but they left two nice little good-by letters. - -_December 20th._ A bit colder. There was a flurry of snow yesterday, -but still, with the exception of a few days in October, there has been -no cold weather. - -Took my daily walk up to the railroad track. Found the life of P. T. -Barnum among some old books and read hard for two hours. - -Colonel T. has an attack of rheumatism, is in bed, and feels very sorry -for himself. - -We take Christmas dinner at B. H. 45, that is unless I have the good -luck to get away before then. Every one is beginning to feel very -homesick and restless. I cannot realize that Christmas will be here in -four days. There isn't a suggestion of it in the air. - -The children keep up a continual chatter in the next room, but strange, -it is rather pleasant than otherwise. If they would only not start the -squeaky old pump at seven in the morning! - -_Christmas Eve, 1918._ It hardly seems possible that another year has -rolled by and Christmas is here again. One year ago to-night, and now -here again in Toul. - -Goodall, Yocum and self went to Nancy this afternoon. In the evening -the Delatté children came in my room, played the piano and they danced. -I gave them some candy; then to supper. - -Dinner was pretty sad. Never try and be gay, is a rule that should be -taught in childhood. - -My landlady, is having "tea" at nine this evening, and I am expected to -join. The day started beautifully, but it is sleeting hard now. And mud -everywhere. - -No signs of Christmas anywhere among the French, except Madame Delatté -asked me to go to Midnight Mass with her. She got confessed this -afternoon, and is ready now for another year of miserliness. Much to my -astonishment, she made me a brioche. - -_December 28th._ Waiting! Waiting for orders to return. Cadwalader -called me up Friday and said he had received his, and that my name was -on the same paper, but nothing has come. It is very trying. Over three -weeks now in daily anticipation. - -Yocum, Goodall and self went to Neufchâteau. Saw Finney, Boggs and -Longcape, but no one knew anything about what was happening. We lunched -and came back by way of Domremy, Jeanne d'Arc's birthplace. Then across -via Voucoleur to Colombey-la-Belle. Heavy fog and rain, as usual. There -were no lights on the machine, so we had to grope the last four miles -home. - -_New Years Eve._ By special invitation I was asked to see the old year -out with Madame De Salle, my neighbor of the next room. There was great -stirring about all afternoon in her rooms, and I could hear a stirring -of something in a bowl. Phillip, her son, age eight, came in to get me -at eight p. m., but I did not turn up till nine. When all the guests -were assembled, which was promptly at nine, we sat down, ate a piece -of dry sponge-cake, drank a small glass of white wine, then a little -coffee. Lieutenant Le Beau, Madame Gérard, the local teacher of the art -of piano-playing, a fat, healthy, false-toothed dame, Madame Ralling, -and her son waxing into manhood, down on his upper lip and a voice that -wabbled from treble to bass. At midnight we all kissed. - -But this is all as nothing now, for it is January 2nd, 1919, and -at three fifteen p. m. this afternoon, after all hope of anything -immediate had vanished, received orders for home. Telegraphed H. and -leave for Paris Saturday, January 4th, en route for Angers and from -there to a port of embarkation. - - -_Printing House of_ WILLIAM EDWIN RUDGE _New York City_ - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A DOCTOR IN FRANCE, 1917-1919*** - - -******* This file should be named 60343-8.txt or 60343-8.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/0/3/4/60343 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: A Doctor in France, 1917-1919</p> -<p> The Diary of Harold Barclay</p> -<p>Author: Harold Barclay</p> -<p>Release Date: September 23, 2019 [eBook #60343]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A DOCTOR IN FRANCE, 1917-1919***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4>E-text prepared by Martin Pettit<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive<br /> - (<a href="https://archive.org">https://archive.org</a>)</h4> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - <a href="https://archive.org/details/b2993090x"> - https://archive.org/details/b2993090x</a> - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<div class="center"><a name="cover.jpg" id="cover.jpg"></a><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<p class="bold2">A DOCTOR IN FRANCE<br />1917 · 1919</p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/frontis.jpg" alt="Frontispiece" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/title.jpg" alt="Title page" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<h1>A DOCTOR IN FRANCE</h1> - -<p class="bold2">1917 · 1919</p> - -<p class="bold">THE DIARY OF</p> - -<p class="bold2">HAROLD BARCLAY</p> - -<p class="bold">Lieutenant-Colonel American Expeditionary Forces</p> - -<p class="bold space-above">NEW YORK<br />PRIVATELY PRINTED<br />1923</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="center">Copyright 1923 by Helen Barclay<br />Printed in the United States of America</p> - -<hr /> - -<h2>EDITOR'S NOTE</h2> - -<p>Harold Barclay, son of Sackett Moore and Cornelia Barclay Barclay, was -born in New York City, August 14, 1872. At Cazenovia, N.Y., his parents -had their country home and there by the beautiful Lake of Cazenovia he -spent his early years and grew up with that great love for the country -and dislike of cities which lasted all his life.</p> - -<p>He entered Harvard University (class of 1897) but left after the first -year as he wished to go to Europe. After traveling a few months he -went to Germany to study music. He had a beautiful voice and was a -natural musician, and so great was the encouragement he received from -his teachers that for some time he considered making music his life -work. But other counsels prevailed and he finally chose the career of a -physician—a choice which his great success fully justified.</p> - -<p>In 1899 he graduated from the College of Physicians and Surgeons. He -had, however, found time to serve his country in the Spanish-American -War, when he acted as medical assistant in Troop A, United States -Volunteers in Porto Rico.</p> - -<p>In April, 1906, he married Helen Fuller Potter, daughter of the Rev. -Dr. Eliphabet Nott Potter.</p> - -<p>During all these busy years, his love of music and travel continued -and always when possible his holidays were spent in European travel or -scientific studies in France or Germany.</p> - -<p>When in 1917 America entered the World War, Dr. Barclay received a -commission as captain and went overseas in the Roosevelt Hospital Unit. -Promoted to Major in February, 1918, he was later transferred to the -42nd (Rainbow) Division, in which he served during the heavy fighting -at Château-Thierry and St.-Mihiel. In November, 1918, he became a -Lieutenant-Colonel and was ordered home January 2, 1919.</p> - -<p>Dr. Barclay was traveling with his wife in France when his sudden death -occurred at Biarritz in the summer of 1922.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> - -<h2>PART I</h2> - -<p class="bold"><i>With the Roosevelt Hospital Unit</i></p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> - -<h2>1917</h2> - -<p><i>June 30th.</i> At last, after six weeks' waiting and more or less -uncertainty of the time of departure, the call has come in the form of -"Confidential Order No. 5" from the War Department. Hustle into uniform -and report for duty to Major Hansell at Roosevelt Hospital. We are told -to go home and report again Sunday, July 1st.</p> - -<p><i>July 1st.</i> It really looks like business. The courtyard of the -Hospital is full of enlisted men having their outfits handed out to -them. The whole dispensary is littered with coats, trousers, blankets, -etc. The men are having identification discs given them and are packing -their kits and rolling blankets. They are really a fine-looking lot -of men, and from their general appearance a good many college men are -among them.</p> - -<p>We are told that we are really going to sail the following morning, -and that we must go<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> home, pack and have everything on the pier (Pier -60) before sundown that night. Max is packing my things for me—an -officer's trunk, a Gladstone bag and a canvas roll with poncho blankets -and a "Gold Medal" canvas cot. We hustle them down to Pier 60 and -leave them standing there with a feeling that they will not be seen -again, as the whole pier is a mass of motor trucks and boxes of every -description. We are to sail on the S.S. "Lapland" on the south side of -the pier. The "Baltic" has just docked and is discharging cargo at a -tremendous rate. The rattle of the winches is deafening and there are -literally hundreds of stevedores at work.</p> - -<p>With a silent farewell my baggage is left, and then back to the house -where Helen and I lunch and start for Mt. Kisco for the afternoon.</p> - -<p>One still feels terribly conscious and queer in uniform. My memory -keeps going back to the days when Rob and I enlisted for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> Spanish -War, a thousand little details keep coming up that I had long -forgotten. Camp Alger and its chaos, Newport News, and the transport -"Mississippi" and all its horrors.</p> - -<p><i>July 2nd.</i> The order was to assemble at the Hospital at eight a.m. I -got there at 8:20 and everything was stirring. There is really nothing -for the majority of the officers to do. Rolfe Floyd is the busy one. -The regular Army men, Major Hansell in charge, and his Adjutant, -Captain Trinder, seem most efficient. They have really handled the -whole affair wonderfully, never once getting excited and every one -asking them hundreds of foolish questions. The amateur soldier is -really a horrible thing. No one can appreciate the difference between -military and civil life who has not tried them both.</p> - -<p>The enlisted men leave on sight-seeing coaches at 9:30, after a -preliminary line-up in the courtyard, and cheers for Colonel Mackay and -every one connected with the outfit. The officers get down as best they -can, so I go<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> down in Dr. Dowd's motor with Floyd, arriving on the pier -at ten a.m.</p> - -<p>The "Lapland" has been painted war gray and is fitted with a new -mine-sweeping device, of which more later. There was quite a crowd of -people down there to see us off. Mrs. Vanderbilt, Clarence Mackay,—and -dozens of others whom I do not know. Except for the uniforms and the -gray paint on the ship, it seems just like a summer vacation trip. Our -baggage is wonderfully handled and everything put on board in the same -manner as in peace times. We are supposed to sail at twelve sharp. The -heat is intolerable. Our staterooms are fine; No. 33, upper deck room. -My lot was first cast with the Chaplain, but I told him McWilliams and -I were old Spanish War veterans, and so he let McWilliams bunk with me.</p> - -<p>At one o'clock we are still at the pier. Two hundred and sixty-five, -or some such number, of cots have not appeared and our indefatigable -Quartermaster Ward will not leave <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span>without them, so sweat on, and the -poor devils who came down to the pier wait on!</p> - -<p>About three thirty the cots are stowed on board, the whistle sounds -long blasts, the hawsers are cast off, and the thud of the great -engines begins. The crowd rush down to the end of the pier, where many -have waited since nine thirty in the morning apparently without any -lunch. They must be nearly dead.</p> - -<p>The thrill of other voyages comes back so vividly to my mind as the -great ship slowly warps out into mid-channel, but I am alone now and -all is so different, yet it is hard to realize it and I cannot help -feeling it must be a great big holiday—the harbor seems so bright, gay -and peaceful. We steam at a snail's pace down the bay, and in front of -the Battery the ship seems to float for ten minutes or so, the engines -just turning over. Officers, nurses and men gaze on the tall buildings -as if they were things of stupendous beauty. Each man seems to identify -some building that he knows about,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> or has worked in. I know none of -them, and try to locate the Barclay Building, but cannot.</p> - -<p>Finally we slip by the Battery, Governors Island and into the Lower -Bay. The waters seem crowded with shipping, the Dutch and English flags -being especially in evidence. There is one converted German steamer -flying the American flag. The "Vaterland" was lying quietly at her pier.</p> - -<p>The glasses Mr. Bird gave me were a source of great fun in trying to -pick out the details of the ships. They practically all had stern guns, -and the Dutch ships had great spears of national colors all over their -sides. Off Tompkinsville, or rather St. George's, Staten Island, we -passed the Dreadnought "Kansas," her decks crowded with jackies in -white duck. She looked awfully spick and span.</p> - -<p>Just below Tompkinsville we went through the opening in the net. One -could see distinctly the large buoys that marked its position, and the -small blocks that separated it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> At the opening a Monitor lay anchored -and there were several motor-boats, of about forty to sixty feet long, -with big markings of "S.P. No. so and so." It was the first real -realization of war I had felt, and it gave one quite a little thrill.</p> - -<p>Steaming more rapidly down the channel now and passing numerous -tugboats apparently commandeered for patrol duty. Finally the pilot -boat comes in sight and the pilot slips down the side into the little -rowboat. Full steam ahead is given and we at last feel the motion of -the long Atlantic sweep.</p> - -<p><i>July 3rd.</i> First day at sea and beautiful weather! The food and -service are excellent. The whole ship is run in the usual routine -manner, and it is increasingly hard to believe that the sea is filled -with pirates bent on our destruction, or that we are on war bent. The -nurses have taken off their street uniforms and donned summer girl -clothes, which further adds to the delusion of a holiday excursion.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p> - -<p>At noon General Headquarters are established in the foyer on Deck -4, with typewriters clicking away. There is much issuing of order -and proclamation. McWilliams is made officer of the day and totes a -cumbersome revolver lent him by Floyd and which is the badge of office.</p> - -<p>Captain Trinder, the Adjutant—a bully fellow full of punch and -go—gave the officers a talk on some of the elements of their duty in -the lounge room, and was listened to with marked attention as every one -is keen about mastering the details of his work.</p> - -<p>Thousands of questions are asked about the most elementary details, -because we are an absolutely ignorant lot as far as the military end is -concerned. What little drill knowledge I picked up in the Troop or in -the Spanish War has absolutely vanished.</p> - -<p>An edict has been put out from G. H. Q. that no rum is to be sold on -board and we are reduced to ginger ale and soda water. I <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>managed to -pinch just one cocktail the first night, and it was good.</p> - -<p>The afternoon dragged along. We were ordered to get out life-preservers -and carry them with us wherever we go. This is an absolute rule and we -cannot be separated from them for an instant. The officers and men walk -around with the preservers strapped to their backs, carrying them even -to meals, where one kicks them under the table between one's feet while -eating.</p> - -<p>The rubber suits were gotten out and fixed on. I don't believe they can -ever be adjusted in a general excitement which is bound to ensue in a -smash-up, and then besides if there is any leak in the rubber, such as -a pin prick, they would slowly fill with water. I shall depend on the -old life-preserver.</p> - -<p>The night is wonderful. Officers and nurses sit on deck singing. And -they sing well. A beautiful full moon.</p> - -<p><i>July 4th.</i> My turn as officer of the day which,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> among its other -duties, entailed dragging around "Rollo" Floyd's Colt automatic, -and this blunderbuss grew heavier each hour of the day, so that by -night-time it weighed nothing less than a ton. Was given a detail of -twenty men out of which I appointed, as per instructions, two Acting -Sergeants, one day and one night; two guards were assigned to Q. M. -Ward; three to Headquarters and six to prison guard. It being a holiday -the Headquarters and Q. M. guard were dismissed at noon, the prison -guard being the only one maintained.</p> - -<p>Visiting our only prisoner, I found him to be a clean-cut, alert man -of apparently more than average intelligence. I made the poor devil as -comfortable as possible, but was obliged to go through his baggage in -search of any incriminatory evidence and to take any weapons away from -him. These consisted of three razors, which were turned over to H. Q. -Thompson, the prisoner, is, I believe, an actor—probably a super. He -expressed a strong<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> desire for a bible, so sent him the Chaplain later. -He thanked me very profusely for this. I exceeded orders and allowed -him to be on deck four hours, instead of two, as the day was stifling -and his cabin not the coolest place in the world.</p> - -<p>At night all singing was stopped as they say sound carries for a long -distance over the water.</p> - -<p>The life boats have all been swung out and men assigned to them. I am -commanding officer of boat No. 21, starboard side, or the alternate No. -22, port side. Which boat is launched depends upon which side we are -struck and how the ship lists.</p> - -<p>Being the Fourth of July the dinner had an extra course and a few extra -British and American flags about. In the evening we assembled in the -Second Cabin for a smoker, only no one was allowed to smoke as all -ports being closed you could cut the atmosphere. However, cigars and -cigarettes were passed around and, I suppose, were used later. We had -the usual<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> burst of song, but it was such a beautiful warm night with -a full moon that every one hurried on deck. I made my last round at -eleven p.m. and turned in for a sound night's sleep.</p> - -<p><i>July 5th.</i> Another wonderful, hot day with only a mere ripple on the -ocean. I turned over the old shooting iron to Floyd, and was jolly well -glad to be rid of it. We have boat drill at ten a.m. I am captain of my -boat. The orders are that in case of torpedo we man the starboard side -first; if the ship is so listed that we cannot launch that side we take -the port side. My boats are 21 starboard and 22 alternate port. I have -three lieutenants and fifteen men besides certain members of the ship's -crew. My boat is farthest astern; we are cut off from all commands on -the bridges, and if we have to go over will practically have to work on -my own initiative.</p> - -<p>At four p.m. the stern gun fired three practice shots at a smoke -target. The target was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> allowed to float about a mile leeward. The -first shot was over, but the second and third were bull's-eyes. It was -very pretty to see the shell ricochet. It made thin splashes in the -water. In one it was markedly deflected to the left.</p> - -<p>No smoking on decks after nightfall, and the smoking-room is so hot -with everything locked up that one rather went without than sit -indoors. It was a beautiful moonlit night and Russell and I sat on -deck till twelve p.m., then turned in where I found McWilliams snoring -peacefully.</p> - -<p><i>July 6th.</i> An uneventful day. Trinder is drilling the officers for an -hour each afternoon. The parson tried to talk philosophy with me in -the cabin. I was tired and these old sex problems bore me to death. -He has just read one volume of Havelock Ellis and heard a lecture on -psycho-analysis and is full of it. I told him the only philosophy I had -was "live and let live," and all this analysis of a man's daily<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> action -was a damned bore as far as I was concerned. He left me in a huff. He -is just bristling with uplift, but on the whole a good fellow.</p> - -<p>Turned in about eleven and read "Captains Courageous" for a couple of -hours, but got dreaming about subs and could not sleep. The ship's -company on the whole seem more or less concerned, but all keep -cheerful. My only hope is, that if anything happens, I won't lose my -head.</p> - -<p><i>July 7th.</i> A cold, gray day, but a very pleasant change after the past -six days of suffocation. General inspection in flannel shirts at nine -a.m., and it was cold standing around. It was the first time I had -seen the men all drawn up together and they looked well. The parson is -peeved. He would hardly speak to me this morning, but it will probably -wear off in time. This is an awfully good, tame crowd. There is none -of the old freebooter spirit we had in '98. All older is probably the -answer. But even the younger men are very quiet.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p> - -<p>The nurses had a party. There were shrieks of laughter until late in -the night.</p> - -<p><i>July 8th.</i> No drills nor work to-day. It is cloudy and very cold. At -ten forty-five Divine Service on deck. All the enlisted men, nurses -and officers were present. The service was quiet, impressive and very -earnest. The tension is growing hourly.</p> - -<p>At five p.m. all the boat commanders were summoned to Colonel Winter's -room to talk over final arrangements for boat personnel. They have not -swung my boats out yet, although I have spoken several times to Trinder -about it. They say that part of the ship is so much lower that if a sea -kicked up they would have to swing them in again. I certainly have a -mean station.</p> - -<p>At four p.m. we officers had a voluntary drill. I got a good bath -afterwards. It may be the last for several days, as it is suggested -that no one wants to get caught with clothes off. A good many men are -sleeping partially<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> dressed to-night. The rumor is, to-morrow we <i>wear</i> -preservers, not <i>carry</i> them, and the time at meals is to be reduced to -a minimum. We all sat around in the smoking-room this afternoon. The -conversation was largely on submarines and army life. Colonel Winter -tried to put a bit of cheer into things with a few stories, but it was -hard. Outside the moon is trying to struggle out, the sea is dead calm, -and the ship is bleak as perdition. No ports or ventilators are allowed -to be opened. Fortunately, it is cold.</p> - -<p><i>July 9th.</i> A day really of terrible suspense. We are in the danger -zone. The life-boats have been partially lowered over the side. Every -conceivable precaution is being taken. The nurses' suits are all laid -out on deck. Every one is strung up to the breaking point. All the -enlisted men have been moved up. Many are sleeping on deck.</p> - -<p>About five p.m. the Captain began his zig-zag course, making -wide sweeps every five or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> ten minutes. There were rumors that a -torpedo-boat would turn up late this afternoon, but now, at eleven -p.m., there is nothing in sight. And with it all it is the most -beautiful night ever conceived. A little moon half on the wane came -peeping up out of a bank of clouds, about ten thirty, making its silver -path of light and doubtless silhouetting us clearly against the sky.</p> - -<p>Passed a small freighter lower on the horizon before dinner. Everything -is scanned with most suspicious glances and carefully shunned. Well, -here it goes for a few hours' sleep, or an attempt at it, for it's up -at the first break of dawn.</p> - -<p><i>July 10th.</i> Jim woke me a little before four a.m. We went out on deck. -A beautiful morning with the sun just rising. Peck was there and Miss -Francis, the head nurse, had been sitting up all night. She looked it. -I took a few turns and then turned in till eight thirty.</p> - -<p>Nothing of any particular interest, except<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> we sighted another C. P. -boat with a torpedo-boat escort. It was curious to watch her. First she -was on one side and then the other. The zigzagging gets one completely -confused as to position.</p> - -<p>About six this evening a speck on the horizon and we break our number -from the fore truck and in a few minutes we come in plain view of our -convoy. She is a torpedo-boat destroyer, No. 38, with the "Stars and -Stripes" flying astern. We had a feeling of great relief. We gave her a -hearty cheer. To bed now and clothes off.</p> - -<p><i>July 11th.</i> Woke up and climbed out on deck at three fifteen. Light -was just breaking and every one was on the qui vive. Watched the -serpentine for a bit and then turned in again and had a good snooze -till Eddie, the bath steward, routed me out for a plunge. Last wash on -board; we go dirty to-morrow, and then a good fresh-water tub and soap.</p> - -<p>Our destroyer was changed during the night.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> The rumor is that 38 went -in assistance to some other ship that was below us in our vicinity.</p> - -<p>There are surprisingly few boats seen—two sailboats, a trawler, and -one large steamer is preceding us. Just after lunch a large French -dirigible circled over us. She has been hovering around since early -morning, presumably looking for subs.</p> - -<p>It is pack up to-night and if we have luck we shall land early in the -a.m. About eight p.m. we sight the lighthouse off the bar, but cannot -cross until high tide on account of the risk of striking a mine.</p> - -<p><i>July 12th.</i> On deck a little before seven when we cross the bar and -proceed slowly up the Mersey and drop anchor before the quay where -we wait for over two hours for the boarding officers. They arrive -after a long wait. Everyone is herded in the lounge where a captain -and three corporals go over all our papers and ask us if we carry any -correspondence.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p> - -<p>We disembark at noon. Then a short walk through the town with Peck, -Russell, etc., hunting for a cable office. I suppose all my letters -will be censored out of shape as I wrote fully describing the voyage.</p> - -<p>Major Keating met us at the wharf. He is the officer in charge of -embarkation, a perfect type of the English gentleman. Lunch on ship and -are entrained for Southampton direct, much to our disgust, for every -one was hoping for at least one day in London. The nurses are held over -in Liverpool for a tea or something; every one is most courteous.</p> - -<p>The train was scheduled to leave at two thirty p.m., but when made up -did not have sufficient room for officers, so three-quarters of an hour -delay while another first-class carriage is hunted up, but every one -takes it very casually and Major Keating chats very pleasantly with -us all. Finally the extra carriage arrives and we are loaded. Men are -loaded third class and we go first. Everything is <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>conducted in an -orderly fashion with an eye to comfort. But it seems so strange to be -here and traveling under these conditions and in uniform.</p> - -<p>The train travels slowly with numerous stops, by Crewe, Stafford, -Birmingham. At each stop all the men pile out and rush for the -refreshment counter, much to the confusion of the placid females -who try to attend to them in their leisurely fashion. They call for -American drinks which the ladies have never heard of. A struggle with -the money. I know they think we are a bunch of lunatics.</p> - -<p>The liquor laws are very strict and appear very sensible. They allow -the sale of liquors and beer for two hours in the middle of the day and -for one half hour in the evening. No flasks can be sold from Thursday -night till Monday, so no man can take a supply home for consumption -over Saturday and Sunday.</p> - -<p>At a little after midnight we reach Southampton and are met by -General Balfour and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> his staff. The General has charge of the port of -Southampton and is responsible for practically all the embarkation of -troops and supplies for the seat of war.</p> - -<p>The General conducted us personally to the Northwestern Hotel where we -had the most comfortable quarters. A cold supper was waiting and the -closing law was waived. I had a good pint of ale. It was good after a -long hard day of travel.</p> - -<p>The country was as wonderful as ever, but in place of the flower -gardens one saw nothing but vegetables. We came down via Oxford and -saw many stretches of the Thames. It made me homesick because of the -pleasant days spent at Maidenhead with Helen in 1914.</p> - -<p>Will now continue with our arrival. The poor enlisted men were marched -three and a half miles to a camp which they reached at three a.m. Floyd -and Cave accompanied them.</p> - -<p><i>July 13th.</i> It was ten o'clock when I awoke. The first real night's -sleep in over a week.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> Wonderful beds and a good bath made everything -bright. Breakfast with Martin on war bread (whole wheat) and coffee, -with usual accompaniments of boiled milk. Sugar is doled out like gold.</p> - -<p>Some of the officers went up to see the men in camp, but I toddled -around the town and saw the old wall. It seems that the "Mayflower" -sailed from here, and there is a monument to Elder Brewster of Scrooby -and John Alden and others of that merry party. After that wandered -around town, bought some puttees and a penknife. Met some of the others -and lunched at the "Dolphin," a typical old-time inn.</p> - -<p>The food laws are really strict, but then one gets all one needs. The -meat allowance per meal is something like five ounces as it comes from -the butcher, which means about three and a half ounces when served.</p> - -<p>At three p.m. embarked on the tender which is to take us out to the -hospital ship which is to run us across to Havre. We first run across<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> -to another quay where we are to pick up the nurses who are due to -arrive at five forty-five. While waiting, General Balfour came down -again in his little yellow car and showed us the medal struck off in -Germany to commemorate the sinking of the "Lusitania." On the front -side was a ship going down by the bow, with guns and aeroplanes on -hand. On the reverse side was the Cunard ticket office with a skeleton -selling tickets. The exact inscription I cannot remember, but it meant -the desire for gain on the Cunard's part was the only consideration for -selling tickets.</p> - -<p>The nurses arrive in a flurry of excitement, having had the time of -their lives. They were given the freedom of the theaters at Liverpool -and were cheered as they entered, and a lunch at the Savoy where they -all agreed they were wonderfully fêted. Interesting stories of our -ocean voyage were told them by Major Keating after we left.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p> - -<p>It seems that the destroyer No. 38 sunk a sub two hours before meeting -us. They also confirmed the report that the "Coyote" was sunk sixteen -miles ahead of us at one thirty a.m. It also seems that Pershing's -force was attacked by what is said to be a veritable sub flotilla, and -why none was sunk was just devilish good luck.</p> - -<p>Steam about four miles down the harbor to the "Grand Tulley Castle." -She is officially E-812, as all the boats are numbered now; the former -names having been painted over. She was formerly in the African trade. -Quarters are somewhat cramped, but she is as clean and comfortable -as one could wish. There is an operating theater on the forward main -deck, and between-decks are converted into wards. She is in command -of Major W. V. Robinson, R.A.M.C. The officers are all very agreeable -men and are doing everything to make us comfortable. No one can begin -to realize what England is doing who has not seen the activity<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> of -Southampton. Just after we got on board two big transports passed us -loaded with troops, it was said, for Mesopotamia.</p> - -<p><i>July 14th.</i> All day at anchor. No one allowed to leave the steamer. -The papers came on board in the morning. Towards sundown two more -transports leave again filled with troops.</p> - -<p>We all jumped overboard for a swim in the afternoon. Concert in the -evening by the men of the ship with ours. Every one seemed to have a -good time.</p> - -<p>The sunset was wonderful and the twilight lasted for nearly two hours.</p> - -<p><i>July 15th.</i> Still at anchor with no news of our departure. Major -Robinson tried to get permission for the officers to visit Nutley -Hospital, but only succeeded in getting it for six, so the high ones -went—and said it was very interesting.</p> - -<p>At four p. m. weigh anchor, put out the mine-sweeper and are off, -escorted by two torpedo-boats which put out from Portsmouth.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> We pass -through the nets and around the Western part of the Isle of Wight. -Through the glasses Cowes looks absolutely deserted; the bath houses -are pulled back on the beach and, although it is a Sunday in midsummer, -one cannot see a child playing on the sands. This is equally true of -the beaches around Southampton, of which there are five or six.</p> - -<p>It is blowing a hard gale from the south. Orders are—sleep in clothes -and wear life-preservers. The run is considered dangerous. There are -many mine-sweepers at work around us.</p> - -<p><i>July 16th.</i> We dock at the old Compagnie Générale Transatlantique -pier, most of which is turned into a hospital. More waiting and while -we wait a trainload of wounded arrive and are carried in litters aboard -the ship. I hear no complaint. Most of the men are smoking cigarettes.</p> - -<p>After several hours of cooling our heels we are told to go to the Hotel -Moderne by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> French Commandant. Havre is entirely taken over by -the British. Most of the tram-cars are run by Tommies and the city is -policed by them. The men doing police duty walk in pairs, wear a red -band around their hats and have a brassard on the arm with "M. P." and -are a fine looking lot. The Moderne is an easy third-rate hotel. Am -rooming with McWilliams.</p> - -<p>In the early evening the Commandant calls again and tells us we are to -proceed to Vittel by a slow train. It is most disappointing as I had -hoped for a few days in Paris, especially as we had been sidetracked -from London. At the instigation of Major Bruce we proceeded to the -État Major of the Havre district, who finally agreed to telephone -to American headquarters at Paris. The answer comes that our orders -are absolute; that we were to embark at eight p. m. The train would -leave at nine p. m. and we would be approximately forty-eight hours en -route—no arrangements for sleeping or anything. The officers for which -I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> arrange had packages of two eggs, 400 grams of bread and 100 grams -of cheese. So we start off. A few Red Cross Frenchwomen and some men, -together with the French Commander and a file of about twelve soldiers -come down to see us off. The soldiers present arms, the Red Cross -ladies hand us a small nosegay of sweet peas, a small box of grapes is -entrusted to Henry Cave, and the train snorts out. The men go third -class, the nurses second class, officers first class, and we all go -like hogs!</p> - -<p>While at Havre, Russell, McWilliams, James and a few others motored -over to Étretat and saw Brewer, Darrach and his crowd. They are -delightfully situated. Saw Sally Strain and had a little chat with her. -Paul Draper was working in the outfit as an orderly. They took their -hospital over from the English who had everything working well and had -established a good precedent.</p> - -<p><i>July 17th.</i> In the words of the prophet, "The hell of a night." We -tried to doctor the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> seats so one could lie down, but your head would -always come out lower than your feet and there was little use in -trying. About two hours was the average, with a cold-gray-dawn feeling -as if one had been on an all-night debauch. There was no use trying to -wash, because there was nothing to wash in or with.</p> - -<p>We opened the emergency package and had breakfast of hard-boiled eggs, -black bread and cheese. About six a. m. we pulled in to St. Lazaire -Station in Paris and in ten minutes were out again. Then backing and -filling for an hour when we landed at Noisy-le-Sec, nine kilometers -from Paris. There we were told by the lieutenant we had missed our -connection and would remain till two thirty.</p> - -<p>Noisy-le-Sec is a poor working suburb of Paris. Just why we could -not have been left in Paris to have a comfortable breakfast is -probably unknown, except that when two alternatives are presented—a -comfortable, convenient one, or an uncomfortable, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>inconvenient -one—the rules of the game seem to be always to take the more -inconvenient of the two. There is apparently a lack of any definite -plan for us.</p> - -<p>We foraged around Noisy, got a good bath and managed, for an exorbitant -price, to obtain a fair déjeuner in a small workingman's restaurant -which was filled with military.</p> - -<p>As one travels through the country the results of the war are very -apparent. The countryside is deserted and only women are seen working -in the fields. It's women, boys and old men. The lovely flowers that we -formerly saw in such profusion are scarcely seen now. In spite of the -shortage of labor, however, the fields are all well planted.</p> - -<p>Constant trains filled with soldiers are passing northward, and at -every station we stop there are a number waiting to join their commands -or coming home on leave. During the afternoon we jogged along at about -twenty-five kilometers an hour with frequent long<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> stops. At seven -o'clock some more brown bread and cheese. I had gotten a bottle of red -wine during our few minutes' stop in Paris which helped things along -nicely. Then about ten we settle down for our second night.</p> - -<p><i>July 18th.</i> Every one woke up feeling pretty ragged. Goodness knows -how the nurses stand it as well as they have, because they stick their -noses out in the cold gray dawn looking pretty fresh.</p> - -<p>At Troyes last night some Canadian nurses came down to meet the train. -The station was simply packed with soldiers.</p> - -<p>Well, ten thirty a. m. and the miserable, dirty old train draws into -Vittel, and it was with some pleasure that I saw the end of the -rat-hole we had lived in for thirty-eight hours.</p> - -<p>Met by a French officer. They knew we were coming, but had no orders -what to do with us, so we are bundled through a deserted town to the -Hotel Vittel Palace, which is an annex of one of the larger hotels -and has been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> serving as a military hospital. Well, the least said -about this place the better. No towels, no toilet articles or looking -glasses. There is one bathtub at the end of a long corridor which we -all have to use. No one to clean it out. In fact, nothing is done and -the whole place, in spite of the fact it is a hospital, is filthy. -McWilliams, James, Stillman and I have one room which could hold two in -a pinch. Nowhere to store anything. The mess is horrible. It is in the -old ballroom surrounded with beds. We sit on hard benches. Breakfast is -hard bread, no butter and some horrible liquid called coffee without -sugar—worse than anything we had during the Spanish War.</p> - -<p><i>July 20th. Vitell.</i> Just kicking around. No orders. There is a rumor -we are to move about twenty miles from here into barracks which are now -under construction. Anything to get out of here.</p> - -<p>The French are most polite. The men all salute us in the streets, -several men and women<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> coming up and talking to us. When Russell, -James, Stillman and myself went to a neighboring hotel for a good lunch -we were given a good round of hand-clapping as we walked into the -dining-room. I shouted in return, "Vive la France." Many officers have -come up and spoken to us. I have never tried to talk French so hard in -my life and that which I do speak is simply awful, but they take it in -good part and try and help me out.</p> - -<p>This morning in watching the tennis I asked a Frenchman where I could -get racquets and balls. He brought up an English captain (Lucas), -who explained everything to me and insisted on introducing me to a -Frenchwoman, Madame Somebody, who, he said, played a good game, so -have a date to play with her at five p. m., consequently have rummaged -to get a pair of tennis shoes, but there is nothing big enough for -me, except a pair of dirty brown canvas sneakers, and I have to wear -my long military trousers. I hate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> doing things when I have not the -appropriate clothes.</p> - -<p>I went out this afternoon trying to make some arrangement at the -different hotels for an officers' mess, but they want ten francs which -is too much as practically all the men are living on their pay. The -English do well for their men and officers. They give a good mess and, -I think, clothing allowance, for they all seem to be on Easy Street.</p> - -<p>Well, here goes for the tennis!</p> - -<p>The tennis was good fun. The two women played very well, but the -men—first one and then a younger fellow took up the game—were not -much good.</p> - -<p>Dined at the hotel with Russell.</p> - -<p><i>July 21st.</i> Tried to get some white duck trousers to play tennis in, -but no luck, so shall have to stick to the old army ones unless I can -manage to borrow a pair.</p> - -<p>Captain Ward turned up just after we had finished lunch. He looked dead -beat, said he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> had an awful time as neither the French nor English -Government had any orders concerning him. They crossed the Channel on -a ship loaded with troops and horses. They said the French had treated -them much better than the English.</p> - -<p>Majors Robert Bacon and McCoy were here this morning looking over the -place. There are rumors that Pershing may make it his headquarters.</p> - -<p>Peck, Hansell and Trinder motored over to Contreville. They reported -that it was a smaller place and not nearly so attractive. They go to -Gondrecourt, which I understand is the Divisional Headquarters of -General Sibert.</p> - -<p>The order came to-day that we were to wear the belt and shoulder piece, -the same as the English officers. It will make our shabby uniform look -smarter.</p> - -<p>Russell and I are trying to get leave for seventy-two hours to get to -Paris. I hope it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> can be done as I want very much, in spite of the -expense, to see what is going on.</p> - -<p>Ward brought a little mongrel fox-terrier puppy with him from Havre. -My, but it made me want to see Bluffie.</p> - -<p>I had a wonderfully vivid dream last night. I dreamt I was back in -Cazenovia, riding old Jonnis, the horse, and that we had just been -discharged from the Spanish War, and that all this rotten business was -over. I could not imagine for some minutes where I was on awakening. -But it gives me the creeps, as the men are already making arrangements -for the winter.</p> - -<p><i>July 22nd.</i> Was made mess officer and spent the whole afternoon -running around the épicier shops buying eggs, coffee, etc. Prinzen is -the chief cook. Eggs are scarce—three francs per dozen. The men were -getting pretty hungry.</p> - -<p>I obtained permission to go to Paris, so am leaving on the one p.m. -train with Russell. Packed my valise and am off. It is good to get<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> -away from the crowd and to be free, even for a few hours.</p> - -<p>We arrive in Paris at ten p. m. There were very few taxis, but we -managed to secure one and went to the Ritz. Paris is absolutely dark; a -dim light flickers every two blocks, but the streets are so dark in the -interim that it is with difficulty you can see people approaching. At -ten as we drove down the Rue de la Paix and into the Place Vendôme it -was absolutely deserted save for two girls. This is not metaphor, but -absolute.</p> - -<p>After depositing our bags we groped our way along the Rue de Rivoli and -into the Place de la Concorde. Three belated private limousines sneaked -past us as if they were ashamed to be out so late. Otherwise, silence -and darkness. It was as if the hand of death had suddenly closed down -on the whole world and left one with an eerie, creepy feeling. A lone -gendarme was standing under a feeble lamp. He seemed glad to see us. I -counted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> eight lamps burning in the place and that was all. The change -was profound, almost terrible. I shall be glad to get to the hotel and -in my room and turn on all the lights.</p> - -<p><i>July 23rd.</i> A wonderful night twixt clean, snowy white sheets, a rack -full of white clean towels and a porcelain tub all my own and hot -water. If any man with soul so dead cannot appreciate what that means, -let him follow the U. S. A. for three weeks. If he goes in the field -under canvas he is lucky, but if he is thrust in dirty hotels that have -been used as hospitals for three years, heaven help him, because no one -else will, and certainly not the U. S. A.</p> - -<p>Sent a note to Gabrielle Dorziat saying I was in town and asked her to -dine with me, but when I called she had gone to Épernay for a few days. -I was awfully sorry not to have seen her.</p> - -<p>Spent the whole morning tearing around with Russell. The Embassy, -Morgan, Harjes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> American Express, etc. We went to Army Headquarters -at 21 Rue Constantin where I tried to present a letter to Colonel -Bradley, the M. O., but we found Medical Headquarters are at 10 Rue -Ste. Anne. Bradley was away, but we saw Mr. Ireland, Colonel. He is the -king-pin of the show. He gave us the depressing news that we would in -all probability be permanently stationed at Vittel. Called on Lillie -Havemeyer. She was moving to a new apartment at No. 38 Avenue Gabriel. -All was chaos, but she gave me a warm welcome and asked me to lunch -with her at Laurens the next day. Later I went to see Henry Clews.</p> - -<p>Henry has a charming hôtel with a lovely garden. A fountain with ducks -and goldfish. A nice sleepy cat was watching the pigeons, and a bulldog -was watching the cat. The peace and quiet were wonderful. We had tea in -the garden. Henry was very quiet and just what his view of the whole -situation is it was hard to gather. He was very hospitable and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> asked -me to make my headquarters there any time I was in Paris.</p> - -<p>We dined at the Tavern Royal with a quart of sweet champagne. But the -best of all was a couple of cocktails at Maxim's beforehand. The Maître -d'Hôtel was very loquacious and told us most impressively that America -had come in none too soon because France was at the end of her tether. -This is what we heard everywhere.</p> - -<p>Paris by day appears on the surface very much as when we left in -September, 1914. The streets are crowded with uniforms of every -description and every now and then an American one, but as yet they are -very much in the minority.</p> - -<p><i>July 24th.</i> Lunched with Lillie Havemeyer and Freddy. The afternoon, -more errands, a lemonade at Fouquet's, and dinner with Mrs. Duryea in -the evening. A very pleasant home dinner, just four—a Miss Carrol -making the fourth. In the evening M. Robinson came in.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> He apparently -had the affairs of France on his shoulders.</p> - -<p>I left early and walked down the Champs Elysées. It was very dark. -People were sitting on the benches and strolling about. It is -practically all one can do after nine in the evening.</p> - -<p><i>July 25th.</i> We left Paris in the early morning and after nine hours -of sweltering heat and dust found ourselves back in the same old -place—grimmer than ever. It was hard to get in the dirty old bed after -the clean white sheets of the Ritz, and come down to one dirty towel -till you could get another, always a matter of uncertainty. I began my -struggles with the mess again.</p> - -<p>Coming down on the train we met a Dr. Water with the Johns Hopkins -unit. He had been making a tour of the hospitals. He said they had come -over with the first expeditionary force and had been at St. Nazaire for -some time, and while there they had witnessed the disembarkation of -all the American troops.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> He estimated them at about fifty thousand. -I played head waiter at evening mess, trying to get the men who -are working as waiters licked into shape, and in consequence got -indigestion.</p> - -<p><i>July 26th.</i> The mess again. Am trying to arrange prices so that we -can buy a little cheaper, but it is difficult. Excessive charging -can be brought to the attention of the authorities, but every one, I -suppose, tries to ring in a few extra sous. However, I am getting the -tradespeople to submit prices and shall buy from the cheapest.</p> - -<p>All the men are working at their French. It is quite funny to see -them, and their accent is something terrific. The French are very -good-natured and many of them sit in the garden and give lessons for -pure love.</p> - -<p>Time drags very much.</p> - -<p><i>July 27th.</i> A day of absolute inactivity. There are no golf or tennis -balls, so there is absolutely nothing to do except lie about and try -and talk French. I spent the morning <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>sitting in the garden in one of -the twenty-five-centime armchairs. A few, not more than three or four, -demi-mondaines arrived, and they are at least a little more refreshing -to look at than the old rheumatics.</p> - -<p>I am struggling with the food problems. The coffee we get is rotten, -in spite of the fact we buy the best. The French are a curious lot. -I tried to stimulate competitive bids on food prices, but they show -absolutely no desire or interest in obtaining our trade. In America -every tradesman in town would be after our trade; here they are -absolutely indifferent and hardly take the trouble to submit prices.</p> - -<p><i>July 28th.</i> Hot as hell and nothing to do. No tennis or golf balls can -be had. Up at eight, breakfast, talk to the greasy cook, look at greasy -meat, go to greasy stores and buy greasy food. Such is the day for -which Uncle Sam pays us $7 per day and expects you to cough up at least -$4 for food and clothes.</p> - -<p>C'est la vie!</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>July 29th.</i> Cooler, overcast. There is a rumor of tennis balls being -procurable. Also about twenty pages of directions regarding mail -censorship, etc. All of which was duly read and all the information -which could be derived therefrom was that you could mention the -weather, the state of your health, and there it ended. No date, nothing -on letterhead, signature in a certain corner, and a thousand other -things. About five hundred letters and postal cards were returned this -morning marked "Improper to forward." The French term is "Achamement."</p> - -<p><i>July 30th.</i> Cloudy and later raining. A violent thunder-storm Sunday -night. This is the first rain since leaving U.S.A.</p> - -<p>Major Hansell started classes on Field Service Regulations. We are to -have it two hours every morning, with an hour of drill in the p. m. -In addition, individual officers have been assigned special subjects -to report on. I have been given "Demography in so far as it <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>relates -to the Vital Statistics of the Army." This is to be summarized and -reported upon from an article by Lieutenant-Commander Weston P. -Chamberlain. In the evening Russell and I gave Ward, Trinder, Hansell -and Peck a dinner at the Grand Hotel. Such things may seem trivial but -they mean much. Still no definite orders and simply marking time.</p> - -<p><i>July 31st.</i> Making up mess statement. Trinder, Floyd and Steiner went -to Nancy this morning to get funds for pay day tomorrow. The enlisted -men are much excited at the prospect of getting money. They have all -patronized the café freely, buying candies, chocolates and cigarettes. -Candy is in great demand. Even the officers are consuming it in great -amounts. It seems strange to see men using it in such amounts. I went -to the candy shop in the Arcade to get some this morning, and the woman -was practically sold out.</p> - -<p>Two of the men go to Paris to-day at one p. m. to bring down a -motor-truck and the two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> mascot dogs that were given to the Unit. They -have been given a large number of commissions, among them one for -tennis and golf balls.</p> - -<p><i>August 1st.</i> After two days' hard rain a beautiful clear day. It dried -sufficiently in the afternoon for some fine tennis. The box of athletic -goods has been opened and it was a real pleasure to get a good racquet -and some new balls.</p> - -<p>Russell, Stillman and myself dined at the Grand. At nine p. m. the -French officers tendered us a reception. We all sat around a long -table. Sweet champagne and a pyramid of cake were served with French -and American flags stuck in them. Major L—— made a speech of welcome -in French, then read a translation which somebody had evidently made -for him; his attempts at pronunciation nearly choked the poor man, for -he mopped the sweat from his brow and drained his glass at a gulp. At -the conclusion a toast to the American and French Armies was drunk. -Then Hansell arose and read a very nice little speech<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> which Widener -attempted to translate, but all the jokes fell as dead as Cæsar -translated.</p> - -<p>The surprising thing was that among our men only one can speak French -and only a few understand anything. The French were no better off. -Still we struggled along, and all had, or seemed to have, a good time. -The party broke up by our singing the "Marseillaise" in English and -then "Oh, Say, etc." and finally "Way Down upon the Swanee River." The -French tried to respond, but broke down and explained they never sang -like that.</p> - -<p>Cave did not come home till one o'clock. Great excitement!</p> - -<p>Pershing and some of his staff came in the Grand while we were there. -He is an exceedingly fine-looking man.</p> - -<p><i>August 2nd.</i> Just one month to-day since leaving home.</p> - -<p>Collected my mess funds to-day from the men, paid cooks and strikers. -I hope I can<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> manage the accounts. It is a fussy, nasty job. They are -not going to let us eat here much longer, so we will try and make -arrangements with one of the hotels. I shall be glad at least to eat -outside of this filthy place.</p> - -<p><i>August 3rd.</i> Nothing but rain.</p> - -<p><i>August 4th.</i> Rain in showers all day. Tried to get a walk in the -afternoon, but torrents of rain drove us to cover.</p> - -<p>Moved to the Lorraine Hotel for our mess. This cuts me out of much -fussing.</p> - -<p><i>August 5th.</i> Rain. Separated from the Lorraine mess and am taking my -meals separately on the Terrace. It costs a franc fifty extra, but the -peace is well worth it.</p> - -<p>In the evening a trainload of wounded arrived. There were over two -hundred and fifty—sixty stretcher cases, the remainder gas and minor -injuries, principally involving the extremities. Our men marched up to -the station and the new ambulances were drawn up on the siding. The -train pulled in packed with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> the wounded. They were all very quiet and -uncomplaining. I questioned several men. They came from Hill 304. They -said there was a new gas used there, which when launched was invisible, -producing no fumes and not creating any injury until the body comes -in contact with water. Thus a man getting wet or washing his face the -next day would receive a skin burn. If this is true the gas-mask would -afford but little protection. On coming back to the hotel I saw many -burns of the extremities; they had marked conjunctivitis. The stretcher -cases seemed mostly wounds of the extremities.</p> - -<p>In talking with the French, and this observation is borne out by -others, it seems that on the whole they are taking the war in a very -matter-of-fact spirit, and the blood-thirsty desire to extract the last -sou from our soldiers is the same as in the old tourist days.</p> - -<p><i>August 6th.</i> Bright and clear! Oh, what a relief, after a miserable -week of drenching<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> rain, in which all one's clothes are damp and soggy -and the feet are never dry.</p> - -<p>It is rumored—in fact, Major Hansell told me last night—that it is -more than probable that we will ultimately be quartered in barracks at -Chaumont. The high command have motored over there this morning to look -over the ground.</p> - -<p><i>August 9th.</i> Nothing of any particular event. The days have been fine. -We have had our morning classes each day. Some of these classes are -fairly interesting, but the majority are rather dull. Russell and I -left the mess for a few days, but everywhere we went the French made -some attempt to do us.</p> - -<p>Several days ago we had definite orders we were to move to -Chaumont—going into barracks. Chaumont is a town of fifteen thousand -and at least will be more pleasant than this dirty little place.</p> - -<p>After lunch I applied to Major Hansell to be temporarily detailed for -field service. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> did not seem adverse to the idea and told me to -bring the matter up later. I certainly want to see active service. This -present situation is not my idea of an able man's job, but something -that can be carried on by "any old person." I should like to get where -there is a little "red blood" and hear the last of the damned old -laundry and ice plant and whether the nurses got in on time or not.</p> - -<p><i>August 12th.</i> Still waiting and doing nothing. Yesterday the men -played the officers at baseball, the latter winning 2-1. It was a -surprisingly good game. In the evening the first real instalment of -letters from home.</p> - -<p>I was officer of the day Friday. On making my ten o'clock rounds found -not a single light in the village streets and only one or two small -groups of people going home. It was a wonderful night, the wind just -whispering gently through the tree tops. I walked a bit in the park. -Nothing but silence. One might have been in a deserted village. On -coming in one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> could see the gun flashes toward Nancy, but we were too -far away to hear the sound. I stood on the balcony a long time watching -them. It all seemed so strange. All peace and tranquillity here and -forty miles away men struggling and battling for their lives.</p> - -<p>Today No. 6 Field Hospital came over and played our men at baseball. -Score 6-10 in favor of Roosevelt. The special interest of the game, as -far as the French were concerned, was the yelling and shouting of the -enlisted men, who simply outdid themselves playing Indian.</p> - -<p>There is a young fellow, Le Sieur by name, who escaped two weeks ago -from a German prison in Mayence. He and a friend forged passports and -boarded a train for Switzerland. It was their third attempt. The first -two were failures. He is here on a thirty days' leave with his mistress.</p> - -<p>Some officers came over with the baseball team from Gondrecourt. They -are a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>fine-looking lot of men. They are as disgusted with their lot -as we are with ours. Everything is apparently at sixes and sevens, but -at least they are apparently having much more activity and are able -to move about the country and see things. I am terribly keen to be -transferred into a Field Ambulance.</p> - -<p>The Chaumont question is all up a tree. Apparently the French are not -willing to turn the buildings over to us. At first they say, "Come -on and we will do all in our power," then when you come, the path is -strewn with every kind of petty annoyance.</p> - -<p>I felt very proud of the United States to-day when I saw the -Gondrecourt crowd. They certainly were a bully looking lot.</p> - -<p><i>August 14th.</i> My birthday. Rain. Yesterday we motored over in the -ambulances to Bezoisir where Finney is located with Base 18. He is a -delightful man and I enjoyed a nice little chat with him. He is much -disgruntled, both personally and on the situation as a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> whole. In the -first place he is at odds with —— ——, and in the second place, the -whole organization is all at sea. He thinks the Government is sending -over hospitals in greater number than there is any immediate demand -for; that they are furnished with no adequate quarters and given no -work. In the third place, Finney thinks that the whole system is -wrong; that where the best results are to be accomplished is close -to the firing line, where the cases can be seen comparatively early; -that there should be less handling and transportation of the wounded. -The French are already trying to do this by cutting out some of their -clearing hospitals.</p> - -<p>We lunched at Neufchâteau, a small town of about, I should say, five -thousand inhabitants, very charmingly situated in the valley with a -small stream—I think the Meuse—running through it. We visited one -very picturesque old church on a high rock. There was some military -activity in the town, as it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> on the main line. We also saw some -German prisoners working with an armed guard.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon played some tennis and then we gave the French -officers a return champagne and cake supper. A terrible ordeal. I -struggled with Genevet, who is the best appearing of the lot. He was -sick and hard to talk to, and I simply could not squeeze any French -out. After we got started the men came in and sang. The hotel guests -were tremendously interested in this and crowded into the room to watch -us. The men let it go in good old college fashion, and I am sure they -regarded us as a lot of semi-maniacs, although they all enjoyed it -hugely.</p> - -<p><i>August 15th.</i> Stillman, Russell and James gave me a fine birthday -dinner at the Grand last night. It was mighty nice of them and we -all had a good time. We opened up with sherry and bitters, Burgundy -and two bottles of "fiz" and came home feeling comfortable. Old Mc -was in bed. We pretended we were drunk and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> he dressed us down. In -spite of the extra liquid, woke up feeling in fine form. Sunshine -with tropical showers, but it is getting colder all the time. Great -excitement to-day; we are going to Gondrecourt to hear a lecture on war -surgery by Major Claude Bernard. We arrived there at three p. m. via -Neufchâteau, then about fifteen miles further on to G. A dirty, sloppy -little village simply packed with troops. On the road over, just as we -were coming in, a tropical downpour, which was followed by brilliant -sunshine five minutes later.</p> - -<p>Gondrecourt is simply packed with men, geese and chickens. All seemed -tumbling one over the other. All the officers and men that can be -are billeted on the town, and consequently the little courts have -improvised tables and racks for guns and accouterments. Besides, the -6th Ambulance Company has division hospitals. On the outskirts other -regiments are encamped. We did not go outside the town, so did not see -the latter.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> - -<p>Claude Bernard spoke in English. He was a clean-cut Frenchman of the -best type, with a sense of humor. He spoke of the best disposition to -make of the wounded. Experience is teaching them over here that the -nearer the front the main hospital is, the greater its efficiency. It -seems ridiculous that our best men should remain in the rear only for -the old cases, while the younger and less experienced should have all -the real work. Our Government is discussing breaking up or reorganizing -our present system, and very logically so. It means three to four -stages for a wounded man, whereas, if he can be received within twelve -hours in a field hospital, there ought to be 80 per cent. better -results. At least, so says Bernard.</p> - -<p>My great fear is that we shall be broken up and that I will be sent -inland to take care of a lot of uninteresting sick. And I want to see -the real thing and not sit back twisting my thumbs.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> - -<p>On the way back we stopped at Domremy, the town where Jeanne d'Arc was -born, and saw the little church where she made her First Communion. In -a park right across the way is an old house with the upper story done -over, which is supposed to be her home. It is a museum with busts and -pictures of her. I doubt if any of the original house is standing, for -in the wall is a small, worm-eaten bit of timber covered over with -wire netting, which is apparently all that remains of the original -structure. The church is of the simple village type without anything of -special interest, other than its historical association.</p> - -<p>We made rapid time home and got back in time to brush off some dust -before dinner. Peck told me to-night that I would be sent up in advance -to start the mess at Chaumont. This probably means Saturday or Sunday.</p> - -<p>Higgins broke his leg yesterday. Haberman, the man with the -pneumothorax, is no better to-day. They had the priest in yesterday.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>August 19th.</i> How can I tell all that has happened in the past three -days? I left Vittel two days ago in the ambulance with four sick men -on stretchers and a nurse. We jogged along through pleasant country, -via Neufchâteau to here, where we arrived at about three thirty -p.m.—fifty-three miles or thereabout. The country is charming, but -cold stone barracks like prison cells, a great bare court over which -dust swirls in clouds, covering the clothes, hands and face—in five -minutes boots and gaiters are white—it drifts through into the rooms, -covering beds and furniture and clothes. And then a blazing, dazzling -sun, fairly blinding as it is reflected from the white earth. Only one -little scrap of green can be seen in the whole surroundings, and that -is toward the west. We are in the new Artillery Barracks, which, since -the beginning of the war, have been partially used as a hospital. We -are taking it over in part from the French, with the understanding that -later we will be in whole charge.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p> - -<p>The country itself is beautiful. Situated as we are on the crest of -a hill, by going outside the compound on the east and west is an -extensive view, stretching away for miles over the valley on each side.</p> - -<p>Well, I arrived here and all was chaos. We got some beds up, and I -slept in a large cell alone, without a hook to hang anything on. No -toilet or bathing facilities. Chaumont is two kilometers away, and -if one were marooned on a desert island the isolation could not be -greater. My job is the mess—always the mess. No kitchens except the -general ones. No sinks, but I scratched around. We buy through the -French. The endeavor is to keep down the prices.</p> - -<p>The rest of the crowd turned up late last night, and we pulled off a -good dinner in spite of many difficulties. Our same crowd is together -again.</p> - -<p>Captain Edmond Schwander, formerly an apothecary de première classe, -is the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>Quartermaster in charge of the barracks. He is a real live -proposition, and seems to be a mighty nice fellow.</p> - -<p>Now we have the job of fitting up our rooms for the ordinary -conveniences of life. Also, it is up to me to get maids to take care of -them.</p> - -<p>I took two meals at the French officers' mess. It was most amusing. -A little room over an apothecary shop in town. I cannot describe the -scene, but it was reminiscent of some of the scenes from "Trilby." The -room was plastered in posters—some proper and some more improper—and -the conversation was equally mixed. I was sorry to leave them and come -out here.</p> - -<p>We walk at least two hundred yards for our baths, across the court in -full view of an admiring crowd—and here is when I take my first one.</p> - -<p><i>August 20th.</i> Mess! Mess! Mess! All is mess! New Job! Care of -officer's quarters. Boss of four old ladies, three teeth among -them—one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> has none—total sum of ages—four hundred years.</p> - -<p>Telegram calling Peck and Russell to French front to observe. In town -with the motor-cycle to do some shopping. Home! The orchestra is -pounding away with a vengeance, surrounded by an admiring crowd of -invalids—some healthy ones.</p> - -<p>Broke the crystal on my nice little watch—otherwise, life a blank. No -sensations except hunger. No emotions except disgust.</p> - -<p>The French officers gave our officers a champagne breakfast at eleven -a.m. this morning from which all returned in genial spirit. Such is -life in Chaumont.</p> - -<p><i>August 24th.</i> Back to barracks after three days' absence. Monday last -they brought in fifteen hundred patients in the twenty-four hours. Jim -Russell and Peck had gone, and finally, in sheer desperation, I got on -one of the ambulances and rode in to town. They were just finishing -unloading and Peightel was <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>talking through an interpreter with the -Médecin Chef in charge of the train. The Médecin was asking him if he -could not make a trip with him and personally see the hospital at the -front. Trinder was standing by and thought it would be a good thing, -but was sure that Hansell could not put it through. I told him I would -go with him. Trinder said, "Go and see what Hansell will say." So back -we rushed. Hansell, like a trump, said "Yes." So back we went over -the bumpy old road, pitch dark, and found some "big gun" Major, who -telephoned to St. Dozier, the military headquarters of the zone of -the interior. Got permission, then walked back, threw a few things in -a valise and carried it between us to Chaumont Station. It was about -eleven o'clock then and everything had pretty well settled down for the -night. We found the Commissaire de Gare was expecting us, and he had -written out for us directions or orders to proceed to St. Dozier and -report to the Commissaire Regulatrice,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> and she had been informed of -our coming and would tell us what to do.</p> - -<p>After many vicissitudes, as daylight was just breaking, the train -pulled out, and about an hour later when we reached Robert Espagne -the sun was coming up over the hilltop, the little town lay below in -the valley with the mist still hanging over the river. On the right, -explosions were heard, which we later found were from a party of -recruits practising bombing. From the same hill two years ago the 6th -Division of Artillery made a stand and drove back the Germans in their -drive on Bar-le-Duc. If they had cut that line and taken Bar-le-Duc -it would have divided the French Army. This was in the days of the -Marne. The old Guard Communal, whom we met on the road, told us in a -most vivid and simple manner how the Boche shells were pouring over -the woods and how the French stood their ground. Later he went out and -found a German flag.</p> - -<p>Beyond Robert Espagne we were in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> zone of the active army—miles -of wagon trains going both ways and smothered in a cloud of dust. -At Rivigny we entered on the military railroad, the regular line to -Verdun having been cut on the Verdun drive. Also a little later we -caught constant glimpses of the Voie Saire on the road that supplied -Verdun after the railroad had been cut. There were still thousands of -motor-trucks going both ways. Now and then soldiers' graves dotted the -fields or lay along the lines of the railroad. The French had a helmet -hanging on the cross, the Boche a little wooden fencing around it, -which will soon break down and mean that many a poor chap will lie in -an unknown grave in foreign soil. At Rivigny, or just beyond, here and -there a half-destroyed village, or perhaps just the church. It seemed -always the church that was marked.</p> - -<p>At Évers the village was practically wiped out.</p> - -<p>Then as we approached Fleury toward <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>sunset the air was alive with -aerial activity. Planes were constantly flying one way or the other. -The French can tell the difference between their machines and the -Boche, by the hum of the motors. And now as far as the eye can reach, -a long line of observation balloons. We could easily see twelve or -fifteen, and as the train pulled in there was a terrific bombing, with -dozens of little balls of white smoke in the clouds and a dozen aeros -circling in that vicinity. The men cried "bloins," which meant that -there was a Boche plane trying to get through.</p> - -<p>The air was dead calm. The cotton balls slowly turned from white -to black and then faded away. Suddenly a burst of flame which shot -precipitately to earth, and murmurs of delight from the officers -standing about. The Boche had been winged and fallen to earth.</p> - -<p>We went through the hospital. I was not much interested. Salle de -Tirage, where the cases were sorted—Salle d'Opération—Salle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> du -Stérilisation—Salle du Pansement et Tisane. But it was all dealing -with wreckage, and one wanted to go on and up where men were living and -doing.</p> - -<p>As dusk came on, flash, flash, some small, some large. Great blasts -from a Vulcan's furnace that lit the skyline from horizon to horizon, -and through the still night the constant purr drifted back.</p> - -<p>The motors kept pouring back from the front, each with a load; driver -covered with dust, its contents a mass of dust, grimed and plastered -on, often with blood, but the eyes flashed—for they had been <i>there</i>.</p> - -<p>Captain Félix Melin was shot through the shoulder circling the right -side of Hill 304. His arm was in a sling, his coat hung about his -shoulders, blood spattered down trousers and over suspenders, but -he was the Real Thing. Several men of his Company file down the -gangway into the train—soldiers of the 9th Company of the 303rd -Regiment—they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> were his men and he had led them! A handshake and -a pat on the back were waiting for each man. From all the line of -wreckage—tired, weary men—never one word of complaint, but on all -sides friends met, or members of the same command met and compared -experiences. Many were going back for the second, third and fourth -time—all had been out in the heart of things, and were coming back for -repairs to make the trip again.</p> - -<p>Finally we got our load and started back, but just before leaving, -the cry of "Boche Aéroplane" was heard. All lights went out. The -plane passed over us, then we went crawling back with our load. St. -Dozier again, Montdidier, Brienne. There the men were fed meat, -bread, wine and cheese. Piney, Troyes and Mesgrigny, where they were -all discharged. It was with much regret that I saw Melin go, and his -Lieutenant Broule. They were the best.</p> - -<p>Then back to Troyes where we gave Major Costacy and his Adjutant -Aubert a dinner at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> the hotel, and opened a bottle of "fiz." I -proposed drinking it with dinner, but they seemed horrified with the -idea and said it was for dessert only. So we had white wine first -and then "fiz." They enjoyed it and mellowed out. It improved my -French tremendously, and when we had finished dinner and gone across -the street to the Café for coffee, I was talking fluently on war, -petticoats, and soaring prices. However, we all walked out to the -train, two kilos outside the town, singing the "Madelon." We climbed -into our little compartment which seems like home now.</p> - -<p>The Adjutant Aubert—I can't describe him. But to me he was fascinating -and I could not keep my eyes off him. A face like Christ, with a full -beard, even white teeth, a calm, serene face, but with an eye that -flashed hell-fire when he spoke. Ten years in Algeria, through all the -North African campaigns, and covered with a mass of decorations. Cora -seemed the only thing in life he cared for. Cora was a fox-terrier -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>picked up in the streets of Chaumont and Cora was everything to him. -She followed him everywhere, slept on his bed, and he watched over her -like a baby.</p> - -<p>During the night we pulled into Joinville and then into Chevillon, -where the train pulled into a siding for further orders. We took the -train back to Chaumont and came down through a beautiful valley into -the town, arriving just in time for lunch at the France. Then back to -barracks. Jim and Peck had returned and we exchanged experiences, which -were about the same.</p> - -<p>Trinder and Hansell have gone to Paris for their examinations for -promotion. I spoke to Hansell about being transferred to a regiment, -and he said he would try and arrange it. I want to get into the real -thing and be with real men, and not sitting around here just taking -care of sick people.</p> - -<p><i>August 27th.</i> Life has settled down to the same old routine. A violent -thunder-storm<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> last night, but fine and clear and much cooler to-day. -The weather has been fine now for the past ten days.</p> - -<p>Hansell and Trinder are coming back to-night and we are preparing a -spread for them—cocktails, sweet champagne. I have been tearing all -over town to find some gin, which I finally accomplished at la maison -of M. Henry, who was well stocked with every kind of wine.</p> - -<p>There has been a lot of kick about the food. The men seem to be always -hungry—an enormous breakfast and then howls for more lunch—then tears -when the bill comes. I had a meeting two nights ago and told them they -could have what they wanted, but they would have to pay for it. They -finally voted a French breakfast, which began this morning. I did not -come down till late, but I was told they were a doleful lot. However, -they will get used to it later. Nothing but housekeeping. It takes from -two to three hours to get the work straightened out.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>August 30th.</i> The dinner was quite a success. Every one limbered up, -and laughter, loud and plenty, was the order of the night. Since then -nothing worthy of note.</p> - -<p>At last I have an orderly and he is working on my books. And perhaps -life will now be pleasanter.</p> - -<p><i>September 3rd.</i> The golden morning sun came pouring in the window -this morning and Trinder came smashing in the door at six thirty a. m. -demanding the key of the storeroom.</p> - -<p>Yesterday we took a nice walk, climbing the heights on the west bank of -the Marne.</p> - -<p>I went to Colonel Hansell this morning and asked permission to resign -from the job of the mess. He immediately granted my request. To-night -at dinner he made a very pretty little speech, thanking me for my work -under very trying circumstances and calling for three cheers for the -retiring mess officer, which were given with a hearty good will. It was -a most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> courteous thing, and I was deeply touched. What a relief to -have the thing off my shoulders!</p> - -<p>I walked to town with my wash and felt like a boy out of school. Cave -joined me and we went down to the new headquarters. Everything was -humming with activity. Tents line the road on both sides. Motors and -motorcycles are flying in all directions. Engineers stringing wires -and newly-made majors swaggering about, greatly impressed with their -own importance, all looking very debonair and rather foolish. They -are rather a fine-looking lot on the whole, the Western type easily -predominating.</p> - -<p>We lunched peacefully at the Hotel France.</p> - -<p>Peck told me Bradley had asked for teams to go to the front for a two -weeks' tour of duty and McWilliams had chosen me as a team mate. Hurrah!</p> - -<p><i>September 13th.</i> Haven't written. Little to write about. The evening -of the 10th, Kildare<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> and I walked along the canal to a little town -called Luzy. There we made a find in the form of a nice, good-natured, -well-nourished woman who keeps a little restaurant near the station. -She cooked us a good omelet with potatoes and salad, with plenty of -bread and good butter. Eating it in the court in front of the house, -it was all right, and fired me with a sporting spirit of adventure and -a bit of life in the open away from all this chaos and turmoil. So, on -returning, I proposed to the room that we take a walking trip. Henry -James was the only one who took me up and so the next morning, having -obtained permission, we started with no definite destination other than -to get lunch at Luzy with Madame and then push on to any old place.</p> - -<p>Madame at Luzy told us that Nogent-la-Haute was an interesting old town -about fifteen kilometers away, so we started off with full stomachs -to reach it. We strolled along the canal with its sides lined with -beautiful<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> Lombardy poplars. The afternoon was hot, but, other than an -occasional fisherman who never seemed to catch anything, there were no -signs of life alongside the canal. The Marne babbled over the stones, -here and there turning a water-wheel, and great gray cattle grazed -peacefully in the meadows, and we breathed a deep breath of freedom, -and joy of the open road crept into my bones. It seemed once again -that care and responsibility had rolled away and that I was a boy with -nothing to do but to wander where the spirit willed.</p> - -<p>Then an idea struck us. How nice it would be to board a canal-boat -and just idle along with it. But none came. Then a plan for taking -a train and going to Belfort and from there out to the French, but -at the station the timetable said the last train that day had gone, -and then again the distance was given as one hundred and fifty-four -kilometers, much too far in the short time at our disposal. So finally -it was decided, at Faulein, to take<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> the little narrow-gauge road to -Nogent-la-Haute. So narrow-gauge it was; and it puffed up hill for -twelve kilometers to a snug little village perched on a high rock -surrounded with gardens and the biggest pine-trees I have ever seen. -The tower of an old castle spoke of seigneurial days when "barons held -their sway."</p> - -<p>I looked forward to a nice, quiet, cozy little dinner and a good sleep -and a morning's loaf, strolling about the town to the wonderful view -from the great precipitous height on the west. But nothing of the sort. -As we descended from the train a dozen urchins cried, "Les Américains!" -and in half the time it takes to write it, a dozen more sprang up, -taking up the cry, so that walking along the main street there was a -troop of urchins crowding about us and from the windows heads appeared, -the whole town coming to life. The urchins ran into the hotel and told -Madame "les Américains" were on the threshold. Madame rushed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> out all -a-flutter and courtesied us in. Mother and sister courtesied. Were we -spending the night? Did we eat? We assured her we ate and were spending -the night. Then, what would we eat and where would we eat it? This -latter point was unfortunately settled by the chief permanent boarder, -acting as a delegate and asking the honor of having us join them. There -was no alternative. We simply had to dine with them, and we marched -bravely in.</p> - -<p>Talk! My God! My God! There was no end to it! Words rolled out -in avalanches. Special brands of red wine were ordered, coffee, -liqueurs—but always talk. Now, if you are not a professor of the -French language and you are tired after a day's tramp, and if it is up -to you to appear half intelligent (for James was lucky enough not to -speak a word of French and so it was up to me), it is exhausting. Those -moments were like sitting on a chair and having hot needles stuck all -over one's body.</p> - -<p>Talk! Talk! The war! Every one had a son<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> or brother, or at least a -brother-in-law, killed or wounded. We were doctors, so a minute account -of their deaths or how they acted after they were wounded. Then what -the war had done to them, and what they had done to the war. Then -politics. What America would do. How independent the Americans were. -They smoked cigarettes with their meals. They only smoked them half -through, etc., etc., etc.</p> - -<p>It seems we were the first Americans since one Gillette, of -safety-razor fame, had established a factory there some twelve years -ago. Gillette! Gillette! We heard all about razors till I wished -Gillette shaved into fragments. We must see the factory in the morning. -We must visit Collin's surgical instrument emporium.</p> - -<p>At seven thirty in the morning they were on the job, but we stayed in -our room and watched the market going on in the public square.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>September 14th.</i> A fine driving rain and a beautiful cold in the head, -and all the rooms have a dampness that drives to the bone. Finished my -twenty-four hours as O. D. at nine this morning—nothing happened.</p> - -<p><i>September 16th.</i> Time drags interminably. It is a glorious day, but -absolutely nothing to do, either in the way of play or work. I feel as -if my brain were jellifying, or that if something did not happen I must -simply run away. Army life! It squeezes every inch of individuality -out of a man. Its rules are those of the Medes and Persians, and no -blue-black Presbyterian could be more strict in their observance. In -the fighting line it is all right, but in the "administering angel" job -it is Hell.</p> - -<p>The men are playing baseball and the Frenchmen Rugby football. James, -Cave and myself lunched at the France, but it was deadly. The streets -contain only old women with few teeth and look bedraggled out of all -proportion.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>September 20th.</i> Tuesday night Kilbane and I dined at the Signal Corps -quarters. They are in the Château of Chaumont, down under the hill. -It is a wonderful little place, resplendent with a hundred memories, -for the place was built by Louis XV for a hunting lodge, and, to all -appearances, remains unchanged to-day. It is built on a court, only two -stories high, and much of the old fittings still remain. The garden -is overgrown with weeds and the flowers are sadly neglected, but in -spite of everything one's imagination harks back to former times, for -the atmosphere is all there. As we were shown around by Major Dodd it -seemed almost sacrilegious to turn it over to the unappreciative hands -of officers.</p> - -<p>Colonel Churchill was the Commanding Officer. He impressed me very much -as a gentleman and a personality of much charm.</p> - -<p><i>September 24th.</i> Two glorious autumn days with wonderful sunrises and -sunsets. Only small bunches of clouds are appearing, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> in all -probability means trouble for tomorrow.</p> - -<p>Everybody is getting very restless and unless something happens to -break the calm tranquillity of the daily routine, something is going to -blow up. Saturday the officers played the Johns Hopkins unit at Bazoirs -and, although they were beaten, they came back full of enthusiasm over -the good times they had and the hospitality shown them.</p> - -<p>Last night a telegram saying, "War Department offers you commission -gastro-enterologist, rank Captain, base hospital here. Only thirty-two -appointments. Will you accept if transfer possible. Cable immediately." -I answered, "Prefer France."</p> - -<p>I do not want to leave now because, in spite of the awful waste in time -and money, the game is just beginning, and I want to see it through.</p> - -<p>There is a rumor that Brewer will be here for lunch. I hope so, as it -means a little news of what is going on around us. Steiner and I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> are -planning to go to Troyes for Saturday night for a bit of a change.</p> - -<p><i>September 25th.</i> Brewer arrived about noon and after lunch recounted -his adventures at the front. They were exciting and they all had narrow -squeaks. He was on the British lines East of Ypres and while he was -there the Evacuation Hospital was bombed three times.</p> - -<p>Darrach was asked to join in a poker game one night. He said he was -tired and did not want to play as he had been operating all day, -but they kept urging him and as he was ahead of the game he finally -consented. They had not been playing fifteen minutes when there was a -terrific crash. Darrach went out to see what had happened and found -a bomb had fallen squarely on his tent. Nothing remained but a few -fragments of his overcoat; there was a hole six feet deep and about ten -feet in diameter.</p> - -<p>A few moments later, when Brewer was in bed, a second crash followed by -a shower of fragments. He rushed out and was told some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> of his nurses -were hurt. A bomb had fallen right in front of the kitchen, blowing it -to splinters. A fragment had struck Miss McDonald, his former operating -nurse, just below the right eye, and fragments of shell wounded two -others. There were seventy people wounded that night.</p> - -<p>He then went on to recount many little instances of life in an -Evacuation Hospital. How the officers finally dug themselves in. They -did not like to do it at first, as they were all new at the game and -no one wanted to show that he was nervous. They heard Boche avions -passing overhead frequently, and at those times they would climb -in the dugouts. O—— had a narrow escape. They heard bombs in the -neighborhood. He rushed in his tent for his helmet. His servant was -there and as soon as they found it they both rushed out. As they ran -along, the servant about twenty feet in advance, crash—and the servant -was wafted off the face of the earth.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p> - -<p>All day and all night shells were passing over them. Also he told us an -authentic story of one of his patients who was wounded in a charge, the -wound proving to be a compound fracture of the thigh. He crawled into -a shell-hole where he met another man with a compound fracture of the -arm. They remained there using their rations and water. Then the man -with the arm crawled out and brought in food and water from the dead -that were lying about them. And so they existed until the forty-ninth -day. On that night the arm man failed to return and was never seen -again. So the leg man waited two more days, catching some water in -his helmet, and then realized he must get out or starve. So starting -in the direction in which he knew the British lines to be, he crawled -across no-man's-land when, to his surprise, he came up to a trench and -found it filled with Germans. He then realized that this trench had -been built while he was lying out there and to get home he must<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> cross -it. So he waited for a time, until a moment when there were no Germans -near him, and jumped it landing on his good leg. Crawling further he -at last arrived in front of his own trench where he was seen and a big -fusillade opened. He escaped this and finally by yelling in English -they realized it was one of their own men and he was taken in. This was -after fifty days. Brewer states the story has been corroborated in all -details and is true.</p> - -<p>Stillman has sent McWilliams a letter in which he says there are -altogether too many shells flying around and very little to do.</p> - -<p>I am looking forward to the day when we will get up there and see some -of these things for ourselves.</p> - -<p>Later the order came. It reads that we report in Paris at nine a. m., -Saturday, September 29th, report to the 2nd Army, British Expeditionary -Force for a period of fourteen days.</p> - -<p><i>September 27th.</i> <i>Paris.</i> McWilliams and I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> came on last night, -leaving Chaumont at five thirty reaching here ten p. m. The city was -better illuminated than the last time I was here. We are stopping at -the Continental Hotel—not as nice as the Ritz and more expensive. The -breakfast room here this morning was filled with ambulance drivers, -doctors and nurses.</p> - -<p>Called on Henry Clews and Lillie Havemeyer. Both out.</p> - -<p>Paris to-day looked actually down at the heel.</p> - -<p><i>September 28th.</i> The following medical clinics are held at Paris: -Heart Diseases—Hop. St. Antoine Vacquez; General Medicine—Hop. Cochin -Vidal; General Medicine—Hop. Cochin Chauffard.</p> - -<p>Lunch with Lillie Havemeyer. Called on Dorziat and met General Brook, -who is a son of Lord Warwick. D. asked him to give me letters to some -of the officers with the Second Army Corps, which he has promised to -do.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span></p> - -<p>Last night was a real party. McW. and I started out for dinner, met two -British officers at Henry's bar. We had a few, and then went around -to Géney's for dinner. It was fine. We all sat down in a little room. -Dinner was served at seven thirty to all. There were several very nice -girls in the party and we had a very jolly evening.</p> - -<p>Dined with Henry Clews to-night.</p> - -<p><i>September 29th.</i> Reported at nine a. m. at Medical Headquarters, 10 -Rue Ste. Anne, and there got our orders. We leave at one fifteen for -Amiens. Spend the night there. The following morning proceed to Albert, -arriving at six fifty-five a. m. There report to the Liaison Officer at -Headquarters, 2nd British Army, and then to Director of Medical Service -at the same place. A pass has been issued to us and so we are all ready -for whatever comes.</p> - -<p>Saw Pool and Colonel Winter, who was very cordial. Now to pack and -lunch.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p> - -<p>We packed up, caught one fifteen train, and a few minutes before six p. -m. pulled into Amiens.—On July 30th, 1914, Helen and I spent the night -here and met Sir Seymour King in the Hotel Rhin. How well he conceived -the magnitude of the whole thing. That evening after dinner he said, -"This will be a veritable Armageddon, in which you will be eventually -involved." And here we are now after three years and two months.</p> - -<p>McWilliams and I dined at the Hotel Rhin and sat in the garden. How -memories come back. The dinner was poor and the price high.</p> - -<p>Just before dinner we visited the Cathedral. The carving on the outside -and inside is piled high with sandbags and was invisible. There were -absolutely no lights in Amiens and the streets were simply crowded with -Tommies. We managed to get a nasty room in the Belford near the station.</p> - -<p><i>September 30th.</i> We were called at four forty-five a. m. after a -horrible night of little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> sleep from screeching railroad whistles, and -in the dark hurriedly shaved and dressed. The porter brought a cup -of coffee and slice of bread, for which they had the nerve to charge -two francs. Then carrying our own bags we started for the station. In -spite of the early hour the place was crowded, both with military and -civilians. It was pitch black, but the train was found and we all piled -in and started for Albert. As day dawned a thick mist prevented any -range of vision, but just before reaching Albert it began to lift and -ruins of villages, or villages partly in ruins, could be seen. Then the -train pulled in.</p> - -<p>The station was full of shell-holes, in fact, half demolished—but we -stored our baggage in a shed and started down the street to find the -Liaison Officer. But the city was in ruins. The walls were pockmarked -by machine-gun fire and only about one in ten habitable. And then as -we turned a street corner we saw the Cathedral, or rather the shell of -what it once was.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> From the top of the shell-shattered tower the Virgin -and Child were suspended at right angles, the Child extending far out. -As the mist lifted the sun struck the gilding. It was like a miracle -and one fairly gasped. We were all much impressed and somewhat awed, -for there was silence for some minutes afterward.</p> - -<p>The Cathedral was totally destroyed, only the four walls and tower -standing, and large holes through all the walls. For blocks around -there, no houses were left standing and only a block of stone and a -few piles which marked doorstep and entrance hall. Some houses had no -roofs and some roofs had no house, but remained suspended when all -the remaining structure had gone. It was like wandering through some -recently excavated city.</p> - -<p>At Albert one first comes in contact with English efficiency and -there is only one word to express it, and that is "Marvelous." The -gaping windows and doorways of shattered houses are wired across to -keep out marauders.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> The streets are fairly polished, signs posted -in English—regarding roads, officers' quarters and different staff -traffic guards, but above all, one is amazed at the wonderful neatness -and order.</p> - -<p>After wandering about for about an hour we finally found the S.F.C., -Rest House and Mess-Room. The roof was gone and the whole top story, -but that was boarded up and a little mess-room made, and around the -garden, which had been cleaned up, were rooms for stray officers. We -got the first good breakfast there I have had since leaving home. The -touch of England was everywhere. A Sergeant received you and gave you a -check in the hall. There is a parlor and reading-room, etc. Certainly -they know how to do things. But writing this twenty-four hours later, -what we admired then we marveled at now. For that same hand of quiet -efficiency is everywhere. No wonder they are the most wonderful -colonizers of the world. But more of this later.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p> - -<p>There was no Liaison Officer, so we went to Medical Headquarters -(D.D.M.S.), and speaking about D.D.M.S., one needs a dictionary to -understand these initials. Everything is initialed. I am struggling to -get on to them, but it is very confusing to a beginner.</p> - -<p>From D.D.M.S. we were sent forward in two ambulances, one for baggage -and one for ourselves. We left Albert on the Bapaume Road, and now -all power of description fails. One looks with mixed awe, wonder and -admiration.</p> - -<p>The battlefield begins on all sides. As far as the eye can see are -trenches, shell-holes and graves. The country is one vast barren -stretch. Scarcely a tree remains. Not a habitation is left standing. -Barbed-wire entanglements run across the country for miles.</p> - -<p>On all sides English soldiers are working, cleaning and salvaging the -French lumber and wrecked building material and remaking the roads. The -sites of previous hamlets are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> marked by a sign in many places, and by -signs and bricks and a few remnants of walls. In other places literally -not a fragment remains of what once was a little French village.</p> - -<p>Words can never paint a picture of what unfolds before the eye. You -feel that at the top of the near crest this desolation must end and -life begin again, but it goes on and on, mile after mile, a dreary -waste of torn-up ground and blighted tree stumps.</p> - -<p>And the English. No words can tell of their wonderful efficiency and -sanitation. Water-tanks, horse troughs, latrines, water for washing, -water-tanks where canteens may be filled, manure dumps where all manure -is collected and covered with earth to keep flies away. It all speaks -for wonderful order and efficiency.</p> - -<p>At crossroads a traffic man stands to regulate vehicles.</p> - -<p>Crosses of white, crosses with the tricolor of France, and black -crosses, mark the graves of English, French and German, respectively.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> -Here and there little cemeteries of white crosses are scattered through -the fields where they have been able to collect their dead.</p> - -<p>Fifteen kilometers to Bapaume, which is a mass of wreckage, and on to -Battencourt. Here we met Colonel Westcott, who looked us over, and -then shipped us to the 2/1 Field Ambulance of the 62nd Battalion at -Fevreuil. We get out here, our baggage is unloaded and we enter our -shelter. Now a shelter is a round piece of corrugated iron with a -wooden floor and serves for winter quarters.</p> - -<p><i>October 1st.</i> I sha'n't attempt to describe a Field Ambulance -personnel. Everyone has explained it to me and that is sufficient, -because I didn't understand it and probably never shall. Only, it is in -three sections and each section is in three parts, so we are part one -of second section. Thus 2/1.</p> - -<p>We are comfortably quartered and the men are all nice fellows. The -colonel is on leave and Captain Pope is in command. The officers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> are -all fed up on the war as they have been at it since the start and have -all seen trench service.</p> - -<p>All morning we rode around with the Sanitary Officer inspecting camps -and sanitation in general. The English make a separate sanitary service -under trained sanitary men and not doctors. In the course of the -morning we met Major English, a charming fellow, not over thirty, who -took us over his battalion of Lewis guns. They had just come back the -night before, but quiet, order and cleanliness reigned everywhere. -Truly a remarkable people.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we motored over to Péronne with the same Sanitary -Lieutenant (Hafflin), and again a vast track of devastation as far -as the eye could reach in all directions—trenches, barbed wire and -graves. Literally, not a habitable house left standing. Péronne has -a school of sanitation where the men are detailed for two or three -days for instruction<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> in general camp sanitation. It is a remarkable -institution. Every bit of waste material is utilized. Petrol cans make -wonderful stoves. Boxes are sawed up into latrine covers, wash benches, -meat-safes. Tin cans are cut up and reshaped into many utensils. Hinges -are improvised from bits of leather, pieces of tin and wire. It has all -been carefully worked out and nothing left to chance. Then again all -wagons, bits of equipment, harness, etc., are groomed with just as much -care and attention as they would be at home. Autos are washed, shined -and polished. It is all simply a marvel.</p> - -<p>Péronne is a mass of wreckage like everything else. Evidently a once -charming little Cathedral lies in a mass of wreckage, and on the -doors of the Hôtel de Ville is scribbled in chalk "Eintritt fur 40 -Sanitatespersonnel." The destitution of the Cathedral is so complete -that it must have been blown up.</p> - -<p><i>October 3rd.</i> Yesterday morning about nine o'clock we started -for Écoust-Longatte, going<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> out in the motor ambulance about four -kilometers. We were fitted out with steel helmets and two gas-masks, -the second as an emergency in case anything happens to the first. -After going about two kilometers there is a sign "No traffic beyond -this point." Here the steel helmet is adjusted and the gas-mask drawn -up in front, the bag opened and everything made ready for immediate -adjustment. Then over about a two-kilometer stretch of road in full -view of Fritz and under the range of his guns. The road is lined with -small dugouts. Here and there empty shells are hung, to be rung in case -of a gas attack. The condition of the wind is noted on boards as "Wind -dangerous" or "Wind safe" depending upon the point of the compass from -which it blows.</p> - -<p>We crossed the two kilometers on the crest of the ridge. On all sides -not a sign of life. This absence of all visual signs of life is almost -appalling, for on all sides as far as the eye can reach not a cat is -seen. Yet there is the creepy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> feeling that some one is always watching -you.</p> - -<p>At Écoust is A. D. S. (Advance Dressing Station) in the cellar of a -ruined brewery. The men sleep, eat and live at least twelve feet below -the ground. At the doors are two sets of curtains soaked in a solution -of hexamine to be lowered on the sounding of the gas alarm, also with -apparatus standing near to keep them sprayed with the same solution. -After speaking with the officer in charge we set out on foot through -Longatte, which is a small suburb of Écoust. Here the road for a -strip of two hundred yards is in view of Fritz and it is camouflaged -with wire netting to which small particles of green cloth are tied. -We passed two enormous mine pits in the center of the road which the -Germans blew up on their retreat to the Hindenburg Line. Bullecourt -could be seen about three miles in front of us. All that remains now -is a pile of white rubbish. The English line runs up to the suburbs of -this town.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p> - -<p>Now, at this point we took to the communication trench. It is called -Bullecourt Avenue, and we followed it for about three miles. It is -just wide enough to walk in and the floor is covered with duck boards. -And now shells begin screaming overhead. The first desire was to duck, -but it is surprising how soon one grows accustomed to the sound. In a -quarter of an hour we paid but little heed to them. Occasionally we -passed little groups of men working their way back, when one or the -other of us had to stand and flatten ourselves against the side and -squeeze past. Twice we met groups of officers on inspection. One was -General Lord Harnbleu. In about twenty or thirty minutes we came to a -trench running at right angles. This was Railway Avenue, paralleling -the railway embankment. In front of this were only outpost points, so -we were practically in the front trench and about fifty yards from the -Boche at places.</p> - -<p>The most surprising thing was the few men<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> that one saw. At intervals -of about one hundred feet were sentries while scattered along in little -bunches of two or three were men eating or sleeping. Every here and -there gun points or men stationed with Lewis guns or Victor automatic.</p> - -<p>The sunshine was warm and pleasant, so we stood around, chatted, looked -at the maps and looked at the German positions through the periscope. A -wonderful thing, because it was absolutely similar to peeking through a -hole in the embankment. Not a sign of life from the Boche, except the -constant whiz of shells both coming and going, but they all appeared -to be dropping on our left. Every little distance were deep dugouts, -twenty-five to thirty feet under ground and well timbered. On this -line were two Regimental Dressing Stations. It was like living in a -mine shaft. There were quarters for officers, officers' mess. The men -cook their own food and get good hot stuff. What cannot be cooked is -brought<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> up in large cans built on the principle of thermos bottles.</p> - -<p>From Railway trench into Tower trench, where we inspected another R. -D. S., and then back to the railway embankment. From one line of this -trench where the ground sinks there is an open road leading back to -Écoust. Captain Pope said that Fritz seldom troubled small numbers -of men walking back and that this road was frequently used by the -stretcher-bearers. So we started back over it and after about one -hundred yards one could turn and look full into the German trench with -its wire entanglement in front of it. Standing there I fully expected -to be fired at, but nothing happened, although our shells were breaking -on his parapets not four hundred yards to the left, throwing up big -columns of dirt. So we spread out and started along the two-mile -stretch.</p> - -<p>The whole ground was pocked with shell-holes, a fallen aeroplane was -lying there, a dead horse, but all the bodies had been <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>apparently -gathered in as I saw none. All the time shells kept screaming overhead. -Some English battery would fire a salvo, and then Fritz would reply, -trying to find out where our guns were.</p> - -<p>We finally reached the A. D. S., had lunch at three thirty, and then -climbed out on an old crumbling wall and watched one of our batteries -shell Fritz's trench. It was a fascinating sight to see the shells -throw clouds of earth in the air. I walked home with the Padre, Michael -Moran, an R. C., a bully fellow. On our left was Vaux. Like all the -rest it was a heap of rubble. Below was Beaumont Hamil. All this -country was the scene of the wildest, bloodiest fighting of the war.</p> - -<p>Below I note some of the Boche's tricks and his ways as given by the -British Padre, Reverend Michael Moran of West Riding Field Ambulance:</p> - -<p>Dugout Traps—</p> - -<p>Branch in front of dugout connected with mines.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p> - -<p>Spade wired to mine.</p> - -<p>Pictures, vases, helmets, fountain pens, books on tables, nails in -wall, loose boards in floor, things on verge of falling, and piano -connected with wires; clocks connected with mines, bells connected with -mines timed to go off by a rod in acid.</p> - -<p>Mining of churches and other buildings which have not been touched. -This was pulled off at Bapaume where sacristy was left untouched. -When French Mission collected vestments, bombs had been connected and -exploded, killing eleven.</p> - -<p>Bombs up chimney with fire all ready to light.</p> - -<p>Slip trench with false bottom letting men through on spikes.</p> - -<p>Church furniture used to make crosses for German men.</p> - -<p>Poisoning wells and roots of young trees. Some trees left sawn halfway -in.</p> - -<p>Poisoned wine bottles, one out of several poisoned.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></p> - -<p>Left perfect latrines. First time chain pulled, exploded.</p> - -<p>Tank traps, making hole before the tank. The crater is also mined.</p> - -<p>Party of Boche went around with English motor-car inspecting dumps. -Spoke English perfectly. Few days later dumps blown up. Boche also use -English aeroplanes.</p> - -<p>Not safe to walk over grass or earthy grass as bombs are strewn -everywhere.</p> - -<p>Bombs in potato-mashers.</p> - -<p>Boche military police on duty for five weeks in English front.</p> - -<p>Smoke bombs to blind tanks. Barrage of gas shells before our batteries, -so gunners have to work twelve to fifteen hours in gas-masks.</p> - -<p>Town hall at Bapaume blown up three days after occupation by British -troops, due to acid bombs.</p> - -<p>Umbrella left in stand attached to a mine.</p> - -<p>Gas clouds sent every ten yards apart in bunches of three (three each -ten yards).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span></p> - -<p>German deserter's family at home deprived of rations and separation -allowance.</p> - -<p>Boche found carrying machine-guns on stretchers to lines.</p> - -<p><i>October 4th.</i> The above facts were given by the Padre last night from -notes he had made. He has been in the thick of the fighting and has -gone right along with his men all the time.</p> - -<p>Yesterday morning rode around with Lawson (Quartermaster) visiting the -Ordnance and Army Service Corps (Captain Bateson) dumps. Then to the -water head where the water is supplied to this section. Lunch, and -after that the Padre, McWilliams and I started out in the ambulance -for Vaux—a mass of wreckage. The Padre took us in a garden of a -once-château. The grounds were overgrown with weeds, but flowers still -struggled out of their old beds. The château was a pile of bricks, -beautiful trees were half cut through and left to die. Nothing but two -gateposts and a small segment of the outbuildings were left <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>standing. -Such wanton destruction is simply appalling to see. About one hundred -and fifty shells were dropped on Vaux last night and from the edge of -the town one is fairly in sight of the German lines. The Padre lived in -the garden during the bombardment, and we saw the dugout that he and -his servant had built.</p> - -<p>From there we walked down the Mareuil Road, no vehicle or horses are -allowed to show themselves on the northern end of the town beyond the -cross-road, as the Mareuil Road is in clear view of the enemy. Gun -batteries were placed every here and there, carefully camouflaged, as -is everything. Two dummy guns stuck out in one place. The gunners live -along the roadside in small shelters with sandbag roofs. In the hollow -were two six-inch guns, which were firing a salvo of one hundred rounds -each at a section of Boche trench which was pushed too near to ours. -The target was 7,500 yards away over the crest of a hill. They fired -at intervals of about two minutes, first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> one and then the other. The -crash was tremendous. After watching them working for a while till my -ears rang, returned to Vaux and then took the ambulance to the A. D. -S. on Mareuil sector. This was well fitted up. In the past twenty-four -hours under cover of the haze they had run a narrow-gauge track up to -it.</p> - -<p>Back at five p. m. for tea and then to the Bow Bells. This is a -Divisional theatrical troupe, or, as it is officially known, a -Divisional Concert Party, of 56th Division. It was wonderfully -dramatic, as it was held in a partially demolished barn. They gave -a capital show. Good voices. Two of the men were superb in their -impersonation of women's parts. The show begins at six p. m. and was -simply crowded. Tickets have to be booked up days in advance. We groped -our way home as no searchlights can be shown on cars and had dinner at -a little after eight. On the way back Very lights were constantly going -up from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> lines. Think of a first-class performance in a battered -village, three miles away from a world war, and you can in fact surmise -some of the sensations one has in watching it in a battered barn filled -with nearly a thousand men and officers. And they appreciated it like -children.</p> - -<p>In the evening Padre, Mackenzie and Lawson told stories until one -thirty a. m. A bully day—</p> - -<p>Our 'phone call is "Pork."</p> - -<p><i>October 5th.</i> Yesterday was comparatively quiet. It blew a hurricane -and in the afternoon rained hard. So we loafed about, gossiped, called -on some other messes, and in the evening dined with Captain Welsh 2/6 -West Yorks. He gave us a bully dinner, and several young officers were -there—Captains Humphrey and Baker—they did not look twenty. Humphrey, -Welsh said, had a wonderful record for bravery. He had already been -decorated.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p> - -<p>There has been a terrific barrage on since eleven a. m. We could hear -the roar all through dinner, and constantly Very lights were being -put up. The night was pitch black and we lost our way in the mud and -darkness in trying to get to the 2/6.</p> - -<p>This afternoon we went out with the Padre to A. D. S. at Eauze. We were -going out on the railway embankment toward St. Léger when they began a -pretty stiff bombardment (the English). Shells were hurled over from -all directions and the air fairly hummed. It stopped our trip and we -watched behind an old piece of wall the shells breaking on Bull-dog -Trench, the German front lines. Some were big 5·9's and they threw up a -perfectly enormous cloud of earth.</p> - -<p>We had tea in the A. D. S. with House and Blackburn. It is their casual -conversation that gives one the real sidelights on the situation. Fox, -an Engineer, was standing a bit down the road when a shell broke near -him.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> He came sauntering in as if it had been a rose-fall. When things -quieted down we walked down the road and joined some of the Engineers -for a bit of gossip. Then home in the ambulance.</p> - -<p>Took a short walk into a small German cemetery. Boche when he retreated -scratched off the number of the unit on every cross.</p> - -<p><i>October 6th.</i> Rain. Nothing doing. Bitterly cold.</p> - -<p><i>October 7th.</i> Bitter cold. Had ten blankets and still shivered. Went -to service this morning. It was one of the most impressive sights I -have ever seen. The Divisional Yorkshire Band. Most of the men were -going up the line and were in heavy marching order. It made shivers up -and down one's spine.</p> - -<p>We move to 45 C. C. S. this afternoon. Shall be sorry to go.</p> - -<p><i>October 9th.</i> We moved to C. C. S. in a pouring rain and came into a -wallowing mud hole after dark. We got a real British <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>reception and -were shown into a tent that contained nothing. "Have you a servant?" -was the first question. "We have not," was the answer. So they detailed -us the camp idiot. Mud, rain and a howling gale, and British stoicism. -They are not a bit like the nice bunch we left.</p> - -<p>There is nothing doing here but some trench fever cases (P. N. O.). -There is absolutely nothing to do or see, so we hang around in the wet -and cold and shiver.</p> - -<p>I am anxious to hear what became of the little Padre, because some of -the men were "going over the top" Sunday night, and he was going with -them. If it does not rain this afternoon, McW. and I will try and find -our way back there on foot for tea, as Colonel Lister said he would -send us back in the bus if we did.</p> - -<p>I shall be glad to be back at Chaumont again.</p> - -<p><i>October 11th.</i> We are still at Casualty Clearing Station 45, and a -dreary hole it is. We<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> tried to get away, but the D. D. M. S. would not -hear of it, so we must stay our week out.</p> - -<p>I am officer of the day to-day and am actually running H. M. C. C. S. -45, having inspected, etc., a detail of H. M.'s forces this morning.</p> - -<p>Tuesday we went to Greyvillers and saw C. C. S. 3. They seemed much -more alive there. And yesterday we were shown over C. C. S. 49, our -neighbor.</p> - -<p>It has rained the greater part of the time, with patches of sunshine -here and there for short intervals.</p> - -<p>Last night we went to Béhagnes to see the Pelicans' show. It was -wonderfully good, but not as interesting or amusing as Bow Bells at -the 56th Division. The Pelicans are the 62nd Division. We dined at the -Officers' Club there. There were somewhere between one hundred and -one hundred and fifty officers there, many fresh from the trenches. -They walked in—and drove in. There was a large well-patronized<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> bar, -papers, and everything well appointed. At eight we went in to dinner, -and a very good one only not sufficient. Met Crab there and several -other officers I had met at the 2/1 West Riding. They were all most -agreeable. The Pelicans began at nine. We walked almost all the way -out and it was quite wonderful, as the battle-front was illuminated by -constant gun-fire and Very lights. It is hard to imagine that one is -only three or four miles away from it all.</p> - -<p>During the performance last night the gun-fire was constant, and a -battery somewhere behind our tent has kept going constantly now since -four p. m. yesterday.</p> - -<p>My duties as officer of the day are to inspect the camp detail, -outgoing men, censor letters, inspect kitchens, latrines, etc. Also, -I am in charge of Ward D. We shall leave Saturday morning at seven -forty-five. The British Army is all right, but this lot of men are -dead. I have yet failed to meet a British medical<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> officer with any -range of vision. They are provincial to the last degree and thoroughly -self-satisfied. Those who have seen more of their work than I have -say that as a rule it is poor, but their cleanliness and general camp -sanitation is beyond criticism.</p> - -<p>This C. C. S. is 3rd Army, 6th Corps. The C. C. S. are attached to the -Army. The Commander is F. G. Fitzgerald. He just returned from leave -early this morning.</p> - -<p><i>October 16th.</i> We left the C. C. S. Saturday morning after rather a -dreary week, as it was bitterly cold and raining every day.</p> - -<p>The train from Achet-le-Grand was crowded. We met Pool and his crowd, -stopped over at Amiens for lunch, paying a second visit to the -Cathedral. Then down to Paris, arriving at the Hotel Continental about -five p. m. I dined alone at the Café de Paris, and then back to bed.</p> - -<p>Sunday was beautiful, cool and clear, and a walk up to the Arc in the -morning was <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>delightful. On the way down saw Dorziat for a half hour. -She was still in bed, although she said she was rehearsing daily.</p> - -<p>Called on H. C. and L. Havemeyer, but they were both out, and so ended -the day.</p> - -<p>Monday we started out for Chaumont, and so reached the old barracks -again. Everything just as we left it. Drew 226 francs travel allowance -this morning. To-morrow I am to take over three wards at Piercy.</p> - -<p><i>October 21st.</i> A truly interesting day. Saturday we heard that four -Zeppelins had been brought down, one near here. So this morning -the Colonel sent down to Headquarters and found that one was near -Bourbonne-les-Bains.—H. James, Schwander, Russell, Colonel and I went -down in the Marmon car. It was a beautiful ride. We came on the Zep. -about one mile outside Bourbonne. It had come down across a little -ravine, the nose almost resting on the road. It was almost intact, the -forward car only having been smashed. Some of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> gas-bags and the -rear end of the body seemed to be cracked.</p> - -<p>It was simply a marvelous bit of construction, and appeared like a -whale thrown up on land. Two hundred meters long and a wonderful frame -built of aluminum. The bombs had all been dropped. It was built like -a watch. I climbed into the forward car. The motor appeared intact -and the gauges and levers were all there just as they had been left. -It was all very wonderful. They had apparently lost their way and had -to come down on account of lack of petrol. The crew were all taken -prisoners. They tried to fire the machine, but were discovered in time -and prevented.</p> - -<p>We drove on after that to Bourbonne for lunch. The place was packed -with French and Americans. Every one seemed to have come out to see the -sight. Going in we saw the two officers dressed in suits of leather. -One turned and smiled at us as we passed. Schwander got permission for -us to talk to the prisoners, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> they had all departed for Dijon when -we had finished lunch.</p> - -<p>On the way back we stopped and saw where the second had caught in the -tree tops. The forward car had been broken off by the contact and -fourteen men taken prisoners, but the remaining four got the Zep. going -again, and went along—to be captured later. The men captured first -burned the basket, but as we passed there was still a lot of wreckage -sticking in the trees.</p> - -<p>Every one was hunting for souvenirs, and they pocketed bits of the -linen envelope and particles of fused metal, perfectly worthless -objects. The Sergeant who captured the first lot of Boches told us that -one of the officers had a bottle of poison that he was going to drink -if caught. But on second thoughts he presented it to the Médecin Chef, -saying he knew the French wine was good as he had lived two years in -Paris working in a motor factory.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p> - -<p>Altogether we had a most delightful and interesting day's outing.</p> - -<p>On the way back we passed nearly a hundred motors with officers and -men. The road was filled with peasants going on foot, bicycle, or in -their crazy little carts packed in so thick that the poor horse could -scarcely drag them. The excitement all through the countryside was -intense.</p> - -<p><i>October 28th.</i> Nothing of any particular interest during the past -week. Have charge of 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 wards, besides two -Sergeants' rooms.</p> - -<p>To-day Floyd leaves for a tour of inspection of camp sites, and I have -charge of the building.</p> - -<p><i>October 30th.</i> One of the girls from Vittel honored me by a visit, -and while we were dining the military police rushed in and said there -was an impending air raid and that all men were ordered to quarters. I -thought I heard the hum of motors but was not sure.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span></p> - -<p>We are trying to collect a "fee allowance" for fees given on the -"Lapland" and "Grand Tulley Castle." This is at B's instigation, as he -was much piqued that I collected 26 francs more than he did in travel -allowance on our trip to the British front.</p> - -<p>Two letters from America arrived to-day, one posted July 26th, the -other August 6th. Some going!</p> - -<p>It has poured rain steadily for two days now, and everything is wet and -muddy.</p> - -<p>Miss Sheriff has gotten the officers' lounge almost ready for occupancy.</p> - -<p><i>November 1st. All Saints' Day!</i> And a wonderful clear day, not a cloud -in the sky and scarcely a breath of wind to scatter the falling leaves. -There was real joy in the air and everyone showed it.</p> - -<p>In the morning Miss A. came. Miss A. is one of the Red Cross and is -rummaging around, God knows why, because she cannot speak French, nor -does she know anything of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>hospitals. I showed her through my wards, -but it was all Greek to her.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon I started out on my bicycle. Rode to Noisy-sur-Seize -and then crossed the hills to Luzy. It was just sunset as I went over -the divide, and no one can describe the peaceful beauty of it all. -The church bells were tolling the Angelus, the long Angelus for the -repose of souls. Smoke curled up in thin, blue columns from the little -houses below in the valley, and the slanting rays of the sinking sun -lit up woods and meadows with a wonderful golden glow. It lasted for -a few minutes and slowly died out, and always the bells, ringing out -the fading day. I sat on the crest of the hill and watched the last -shadows, and then went on down into Luzy in the gray twilight, and so -on home.</p> - -<p>The Padre (Burnett) was in the room, and a hot discussion was in -progress on the All Hallowe'en dance, which was given for all enlisted -men, nurses and officers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>November 4th.</i> I am now senior medical officer, Floyd having been -called away to organize some hospital.</p> - -<p>Major Lewis shot himself last night (suicide) down in the pretty little -château at Chamaronde. Alfred Stillman was called down. He found him -lying with the automatic revolver in his hand.</p> - -<p>Peck and Cave have returned from the French front where they were -working for five weeks. They are full of it, saying they were treated -royally.</p> - -<p><i>November 8th.</i> The same old story.—Last night dined with Kilbane at -Luzy. Rain and general slow times.</p> - -<p><i>November 12th.</i> The times are absolutely uneventful, and the life is -monastic. Am taking over an American ward to-day. The Medical Chief -told me I was holding too many patients and I must discharge them. It -seems pretty rough, as there is hardly one that is fit to return to -duty in the strict sense, but he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> says France lacks man power and that -is their sacrifice. Their food in hospital is inadequate and miserably -prepared. It seems a poor economy, because if they were well cared for -they would be able so much sooner to return to duty. This is the first -day the sun has shone.</p> - -<p><i>November 24th.</i> We received over two hundred Americans and three -hundred and twenty odd French in the past forty-eight hours. The work -has been very severe—practically only Henry James and myself to do -it, as Martin and Peightel were both sent on other details. The C. O. -knew they were coming, but we had no official notification. Everything -was pandemonium, and still is. I made nearly seventy-five physical -examinations per day, besides having the general directions. It was -pretty strenuous and I don't think it is over yet.</p> - -<p>Have been talking with Colonel Mitchell to-night. He is the head of -the U. S. Aviation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>—a bright, able man. He says Germany has won the -war from the military standpoint. The French man power is gone; Great -Britain has made too many blunders—and now the Italian business, which -was rather expected. It all certainly looks pretty dreary to me.</p> - -<p><i>November 28th.</i> Sergeant Hartman died of pneumonia and was buried -to-day. A full military funeral with the 101st Engineers Band. He is -the first one of us. It was very solemn and impressive. The Padre read -the service in Pavillion Raymond, and then his body was put on the -ambulance and we started for the cemetery, the band leading, then the -hearse, the body draped in the American flag and covered with flowers. -Twelve of the officers followed, Peck, Jim, Reed and self walking in -the first column of fours, the men followed, about sixty of them, and -then an ambulance with the nurses. We went down to the cemetery where -at least two hundred French were gathered. We stood at attention while -"Taps"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> were sounded, and then we turned and walked away, leaving him -alone in France, looking over the valley. He had done his bit and done -it well.</p> - -<p>The corner of the little French cemetery is beginning to fill.</p> - -<p><i>November 29th. Thanksgiving Day.</i> From early morn every one has been -smacking his lips and thinking and talking and dreaming of food. We got -ours at one thirty. Of course, they had to ask in some of the 101st -Engineers, and they have been hanging around our rooms all afternoon -waiting for the dance. The dance is yet to come, but all is enthusiasm. -The 101st Band played in the compound in the afternoon. At present -there is a great hustle and bustle, hammering and knocking around in -general.</p> - -<p>My little sergeant leaves me to-night. A dapper little gentleman. I got -him in the dining-room and stuffed him full of turkey, red wine and -mince pie. He is a finely made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> fellow. In twenty days he returns to -the front. Ganthor is his name.</p> - -<p>My new uniform has come home after a three months' struggle to get it, -and, of course, it does not fit.</p> - -<p>Now for the dance!</p> - -<p><i>December 9th.</i> Thanksgiving has come and gone. The dance was generally -reckoned a great success. The 101st Band of Engineers was very fine, -but the punch put the punch in the evening, and it had plenty of spirit.</p> - -<p>Since then things have moved along uneventfully. H. James and Calvin -Coulter left the next morning for Boulogne, so Martin and I have -practically carried on the medical service, aided by John Williams. -The officers' quarters have been running heavily, but no particularly -interesting cases anywhere.</p> - -<p>Last night Jim Russell had a birthday and asked some of us down to eat -an exceedingly good ham, and we had champagne.</p> - -<p>Life is becoming about as eventful as a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> monastery and goes on with -the same regularity. It is rounds, meals and a little reading, with an -occasional walk. Every one is coughing and snuffling. James and Coulter -are expected back to-morrow, and I hope about a week from to-day -we—Martin and self—will get off. If all goes well I hope to spend -Christmas in Paris.</p> - -<p><i>December 12th.</i> Martin and I leave Friday for Boulogne, spending -Saturday in Paris. James will be in charge of the medical service. It -will be very nice to get away, but I hope they give me back my function -as chief of the medical service when I return.</p> - -<p>The French seem to make absolutely no preparation for Christmas. There -is not an extra ribbon hung in any shop, and in fact the only signs of -Christmas are the bundles in pink ribbon that keep arriving for the -men—they are many. I imagine pretty many are homesick.</p> - -<p>Henry James and Coulter got back Monday from their trip to Boulogne. -Henry said<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> it was well worth while and seems to have enjoyed it very -much.</p> - -<p>Every one is coughing. Bronchitis is rife, and is running a very -virulent course. An autopsy on one of the men yesterday showed the -bronchia to be filled with pus. This was especially true in the smaller -ramifications. They die from an apparent sepsis and are fine examples -of a purulent bronchitis. McW., James, Stillman are all coughing and -sneezing. Practically all the younger men have been in hospital with -bronchitis, or influenza. I fear that our sick reports are running, and -will continue to run, very heavy this winter, with a comparatively high -mortality.</p> - -<p>We had news yesterday that the Engineers of the line of communication -would not take half the building over, which means that we are going to -stay here and that the whole place will be run as a hospital.</p> - -<p>Kilbane and Steiner left for Paris to-night to blow off steam.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>December 15th.</i> <i>Paris!</i> Martin and I arrived last night and came to -the Wagram. This morning, it is not yet nine, we have had our "café -complet" in our rooms which are overlooking the Tuileries Gardens. The -Louvre and the Panthéon are golden tinged in the early sunlight. It is -like a spring morning and a great joy to be away from the routine.</p> - -<p><i>December 18th.</i> <i>Boulogne.</i> Mostly medical. Arrived here Sunday -night. In the arms of the English. General high prices and bad manners -prevail. Hotel Folkestone. We met Pool and Burt Lee in the dining-room -on arrival Monday. Saw Cushing and Harvard Unit, then No. 3 Canadian -and McCree, who showed us some of his chest work. Robinson of Harvard -Unit has been doing some good blood work.</p> - -<p>Lunch with Colonel Evans at Stationary Hospital 14. Walk home along the -cliffs with a great dirigible balloon hovering over the sea. In the -afternoon Robinson read his paper on transfusions and the preservation -of blood.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span></p> - -<p>Last night and again to-night Boche aeroplanes over the city and all -lights suddenly turned out about five p.m. The city was literally in -inky blackness, save for the pale flicker of the moon. Two wonderful -clear cold days. The atmosphere of the place is distinctly one of -depression. They all admit the situation is serious.</p> - -<p><i>December 24th.</i> We left Boulogne last Thursday and started for -Paris. The train was packed with "permissionaires" and all in a -very jolly humor. The trip was well worth while, because it gave -me many suggestions of the problems of war medicine. The crowd was -terrific when we arrived in Paris—no taxis, so we struggled with the -complications of the metro, finally reaching the Wagram.</p> - -<p>Friday visited Vidal at Hospital Cochin. He had his clinic. We waited -for him and met him in his ante-room. He was most cordial. The man has -done a tremendous amount of literary work. There were volumes of it. He -is a thickset, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>forcible man of about forty-eight or fifty.</p> - -<p>I lunched with Lillie H. that afternoon where she had Cross and a Miss -McCook, Y. M. C. A. In the evening dined with Henry Clews, who was in -good form and opened up in the old style. Saturday L. lunched with me -and in the evening I dined with Mrs. Stuart. Friday afternoon saw Madam -A., an American woman with a Dutch husband. P. wanted me to see her. -Stupid old thing, as deaf as a post.</p> - -<p>Martin left me this morning. Am alone now till Wednesday or Thursday, -and then back again.</p> - -<p><i>December 27th.</i> Returned from Paris with S. Ground white with snow. -They all seemed glad to see me. Evidently Christmas was a great -success. A full round of drinks, and they say all were happy, the -Colonel included. The place is packed with patients. Y. M. C. A. tent -is up and for the present filled with cots—cots in the corridors, so -we are in now for a lively time.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span></p> - -<h2>1918</h2> - -<p><i>January 18th.</i> Since last writing nothing of great importance has -taken place.</p> - -<p>My recommendation for a majority was sent to Washington about ten -days ago by Colonel Hansell. I hope it goes through and goes through -quickly. The snow has all disappeared and beautiful, glorious mud -reigns in its place. The Colonel is trying to jack up discipline—God -knows it needs it. I caught one man staggering home dead drunk and had -the pleasure of putting him under arrest. Blankets are being taken -and electric-light bulbs. The same old lazy American methods. Saw our -officers walking along the roads in their long coats, pretty sloppy -looking objects. You cannot make a soldier unless you dress him in a -soldierly fashion. The everlasting cry is we are a young country and -it takes us time to learn, but, damnation, does it take one hundred -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> fifty years? Why could not our Government have attended to these -matters twenty-five years ago?</p> - -<p><i>February 1st.</i> Kilbane, Steiner and myself are off in the morning for -our seven days' vacation. We are going to Nice, motoring to Dijon where -we hope to be able to catch the train or rather get accommodations on a -train, as we hear everything is crowded.</p> - -<p>Took my physical exam. for majority two days ago, Martin examining.</p> - -<p>We have had a wonderful fifteen days of clear weather, half of -them quite summery, but for the most part the air is very damp and -penetrating.</p> - -<p><i>February 14th.</i> Back in Nice, with one day in Paris. We caught the -train from Dijon at one thirty a.m., and stood up the balance of the -night in the corridor as there were no seats—men and women stretched -out full length lying on the floor. Reached Marseilles at twelve noon -the next day, and stopped off<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> for the balance of the day and night, -taking the express next morning. Beautiful country. Stopped at Nice at -the Hotel Negresco. First class. Perfect weather.</p> - -<p>We have twelve new M. C. nurses and enlisted men. A perfect mob now, -but they seem a fairly decent lot. Same old job, except this time I am -to start some fool work on food with a test squad of fifty men. Cannot -make out any point to it, except they want to find out how much waste -there is in preparation of food.</p> - -<p><i>February 22nd.</i> Was sworn in as Major this morning by Colonel Island.</p> - -<p><i>February 28th.</i> Howard Peck died.</p> - -<p><i>March 1st.</i> Howard's funeral. 6th Artillery brass band, and all walked -down to the new American Cemetery. Poor Major Peck!</p> - -<p><i>March 2nd.</i> We heard two weeks ago that Alfred Stillman's brother was -killed while flying. Alfred has been in London, having left on receipt -of the news.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span></p> - -<p>There are twelve new raw-boned Southerners added to our Unit since my -return from Nice.</p> - -<p>This morning we sent two operating teams to American C.C.S. No. 1, -McWilliams among them. Armitage Whittman has taken Henry James's bed in -our rooms. He seems to be a nice fellow. Stuart Benson, Paul Draper, -Beekman Hoppin and Mrs. "Bordie" Harriman have all turned up at one -time or another.</p> - -<p><i>March 9th.</i> Alfred Stillman and I got a motor and rode out to American -C.C.S. No. 1, just north of Toul—a beautiful spring day and a very -pleasant trip. We lunched and dined at the Officers' Club, Neufchâteau, -which sports a fine bar.</p> - -<p><i>March 10th.</i> Last night some of the convalescent officers got two -motors and we went down and saw Elsie Janis. She told stories, sang -songs and danced for an hour and fifteen minutes. It was a delightful -performance, she was so perfectly natural and joked and talked with the -audience.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>March 14th.</i> Am leaving for Paris for two days to-night with Major -Malone.</p> - -<p><i>March 23rd.</i> This has been an eventful day. In the first place, -Colonel Hansell and Major Peck went on their vacations and I was left -C.O., which entails many fussy details. Then this afternoon Colonel -Mitchell of the Flying Corps, who was recently a patient of mine at -the Officers' Pavillion, paid me a call, asked me to motor out to Hill -412 Aerodrome with him, and sent me off on an aeroplane flight with a -French pilot.</p> - -<p>It was a wonderful sensation. We flew about twenty miles, circling over -Chaumont and the hospital. Words cannot describe it. It has all the -thrill of flying. The woods looked like little bunches of moss. We flew -over the Canal, which had the color of bright emerald. The Flying Corps -for me, if it wasn't for this cursed age.</p> - -<p><i>April 4th.</i> This is approximately the tenth day of the great battle. -For many days we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> have all been very anxious, but now a rapid feeling -of confidence has arisen that the enemy is held.</p> - -<p>Have been Commanding Officer at the hospital for the past thirteen -days, the Colonel and Peck having taken their vacation in Nice.</p> - -<p><i>April 19th.</i> <i>Paris</i>—Medical conference. Hansell and I roomed -together. I heard the big gun go off twice, otherwise all was quiet.</p> - -<p>Alexander Lambert asked me to dine with him. There were eight at -dinner—his wife, Major Strong and wife, and Colonel Island, also -Colonels Martin and Cummings of the English Army. While there Major -Thayer told me I was to be detailed to one of the Divisions as -Divisional Consultant. I was much pleased, as the news was a great -surprise, for among all the wire-pulling I hardly expected to have -anything good handed out unsolicited.</p> - -<p><i>April 25th.</i> Orders to proceed to Neufchâteau. Threw the necessities -in my old grip, rolled up the bedding and off in a Ford <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>ambulance. Of -course, all haste was unnecessary, as when I got in Major Thayer was -away and Boggs, the Assistant Director of Medical Service, had gone to -Chaumont. Saw Finney, who invited me to lunch—one of those sweetly -solemn male luncheons where every one was afraid to say anything.</p> - -<p>Later that day Boggs turned up and we talked over affairs. The -Consultant has charge and direction of all cases in his department. My -orders were in a measure vague, and I should imagine it was largely up -to me to create the position.</p> - -<p>Spent the night at the Officers' Club and next day, Saturday, motored -with Finney and Boggs to C. C. S. No. 1 at Sevastepol where we lunched. -Saw Pool and McWilliams. The latter has gotten very fat. From there -we went on to Bucy, the 26th Division Headquarters, situated in a -charming old Norman château with beautiful grounds, and from the -terrace a superb view overlooking "Bocheland." It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> seemed a sacrilege -to desecrate the grounds. Guns were booming in the distance, and the -streets of the village were full of United States troops and transports.</p> - -<p>For fifteen miles and more behind the lines, the French were digging -entrenchments and erecting barbed wire. They are evidently taking no -chances.</p> - -<p>My original orders were not sufficiently comprehensive, so Sunday -returned to Chaumont with Brewer, and here I am (May 3rd) waiting -further orders before embarking on my new mission.</p> - -<p><i>May 6th.</i> The new mission was just on the point of materializing when -the 'phone rang and I was told, with Colonel Keller's compliments, to -"disregard my orders." I felt like one personally conducted to hell and -abandoned. Dumped for some reason. It was cruel. I debated for some -time and then walked down to H. Q. and saw K. All the satisfaction -obtainable was that the 2nd Division was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> coming out of the line and -that a general reorganization was pending and to sit tight for further -orders, which would surely come, and I would not be forgotten. Said he -was not at liberty to divulge their plans further, and then changed the -subject and talked about Colonel Reno's death by suicide, saying he was -his best friend and showing me a letter from his wife.</p> - -<p>Moved our mess-hall over on the south end of the ground. Not much to -do, and every one depressed and gloomy. Cadwalader and Stillman having -their afternoon naps. Saw Major Flint last night at Hotel France—said -John Alsop was with him. Paul Draper regaled us yesterday with his days -of prosperity. It was a very wonderful story.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span></p> - -<h2>PART II</h2> - -<p class="bold"><i>With the 42nd (Rainbow) Division</i></p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span></p> - -<h2>1918</h2> - -<p><i>November 18th.</i> It has been many months since I have attempted to -write anything, for the principal reason that shortly after the last -entry I was sent to the 42nd Division as Medical Consultant. The -Division was at Baccarat. At the time of my journey George E. Brewer of -New York was the Surgical Consultant, and for the first two weeks we -roomed together. Later I got a billet for myself over by the railroad.</p> - -<p>It was a great relief to get away from the stuffy monotony of 15. The -country was beautiful, and the opportunity to roam around and enter -into the life of the war was very refreshing. We had a nice mess, not -far from our billets—Sanford, Sam Arnold, "Sister" Rennis (Y.M.C.A.), -I. N. Perry (Red Cross), Brewer and myself. Brewer was the cock o' the -walk. Henry Sanford was Division Neurologist.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span></p> - -<p>We had an epidemic of what we called "three day flu"—really, I think, -grippe. Something like forty cases of pneumonia resulted from it. They -ran a very protracted course and the incidence of empyema was high.</p> - -<p>While at Baccarat I took many little side trips with Brewer in his -motor. According to rules, I was entitled to a motor, but in spite of -constant efforts I never got it and it did much to cripple my work with -the Division.</p> - -<p>Aside from gas attacks there was not much activity in the line. We had -several nasty gas attacks. Jaspar Coglan was gas officer and seemed -very efficient, but in spite of everything he did, they would get us in -much too large proportions.</p> - -<p>I drove out almost every day inspecting the regimental aid posts. The -Division area was about twenty-five square miles. At one place where -there was a gap in the woods, the trees had been shot away; when the -Germans saw the dust of the motor they would put over a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> few shells, -but they always broke behind us. Although the line was comparatively -quiet, there was always more or less of a thrill in making these trips.</p> - -<p>About the middle of June rumors began to spread. One, that we were -to move up north and that "big business" was soon to begin. Finally -officers from the 77th blew in to look the ground over, and then we -knew they were the relieving division and that we were to go. In a day -or two the jam in the street was terrific. 42nd moving out—77th coming -in.</p> - -<p>I motored in advance one morning, about the twentieth of June, to a -charming little French town—Châtel. We spent two days here. A pleasant -billet and days of real rest after a month's hard work.</p> - -<p>The Division was slowly moving north to an unknown destination, some of -it by train (the infantry)—the artillery and other overland. We found -out that it would be somewhere in the neighborhood of Châlons, so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> -started on ahead. We were finally assigned to a sector, of which the -town of Souain was the center, about twenty-five kilometers north of -Châlons. Medical headquarters at Vardanay.</p> - -<p>While there visited Châlons many times and had some excellent dinners -at the Hôtel Angleterre, which was afterward totally destroyed by a -bomb. Also had a most interesting lunch with General Gouraud, to whose -4th Army we were attached. General Gouraud sent us to Verdun, where -we were well entertained by Colonel Dehays, and lunched with General -Hirschauer, the Commander of the Army of Verdun. It was all wonderfully -interesting. The view from Fort St. Nicholas was grand, but we were -shelled heartily while enjoying it. The whole country is devastated.</p> - -<p>The days were full of new and interesting experiences. The end of -June found me in a little peasant house at Vardanay across the way -from the church. Our mess was in a combination schoolhouse and café, -just to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> right of the church. Madame Michel was the old lady -proprietor's name. I had a little room under the roof, papered with -daily newspapers. She had a nice little garden. After our mess we would -congregate there and discuss what news there was.</p> - -<p>It was pretty evident that they expected Fritz to start his next -push somewhere in that neighborhood, as there were very extensive -preparations being made. Troops and guns were arriving in large -quantities every night, and all night long truck-loads of supplies -were rumbling by my billet. Bussy-le-Château, about twenty kilos to -our east, was chosen for our evacuation hospital, and two of our field -hospitals, together with Mobile No. 2 (Captain St. John) were installed -there. Walter Cannon came with a shock team, and I think we had either -ten or twelve surgical teams.</p> - -<p>I made almost daily trips in to Souain and the different positions -held by our men. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>Toward the west (Rheims) there was almost constant -bombarding, and at night the sky was brilliantly illuminated with gun -flashes and rockets, but on our immediate sector there was almost an -ominous quiet. Our artillery put over a daily barrage, but scarcely a -shell came in.</p> - -<p>Everything was ready, and still nothing happened. All sorts of rumors -were afloat, that the attack would probably develop elsewhere, etc. -In the evening after dark it was my habit to walk out on the plains -and watch the artillery at work. The night of the fourteenth of July -was cloudy, and it had been blowing a gale from the south all day. The -guns were all very active, some shells coming in. The gale blew so that -standing two hundred yards from the 155 mms. I could hardly hear the -report. Starting the homeward trip about eleven against the wind, it -almost made walking impossible. It seemed surely as if nothing would -happen that night.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span></p> - -<p>I had just undressed and blown the candle out, when crash and a roar. -I knew what had happened and jumped from bed, pulling on a shirt, -trousers and boots, without stopping to lace them. Before I had -finished shells were dropping in Vardanay, many of them singing over -the roof. As I ran down the stairs poor old Madame Michel met me. I -sent her to the remains of the old Roman catacombs under the garden, -and walked out into the road after fumbling with the gate for what -seemed an age, trying to find the key and get it in the lock. While I -was fussing a house further down the street was struck and dust and -splinters dropped all over me.</p> - -<p>I met Fairchild (D. S. Fairchild, Chief Surgeon, 42nd Division). His -motor was waiting, and we got in and started east toward Bussy. I -looked at my watch—it was twelve ten.</p> - -<p>The roar of the artillery was so great that we had to yell to make -ourselves heard. Shells were flying over our heads, breaking on both<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> -sides of the road. Where the road turned north for a few hundred yards -our motor suddenly stopped. The chauffeur managed to make it run again, -but as we waited shells were constantly screeching over our heads.</p> - -<p>We reached Bussy in due time. The roads were crowded with all manner of -transport, and we crawled along, the only light being the gun flashes.</p> - -<p>At Bussy all was ready. The first wounded began coming in about two a. -m. At the same time the Boche opened fire on the hospital. At first -the shots were wild, but with the break of day and probably aerial -observation, they began getting direct hits. After three or four -we decided to send nurses below and evacuate patients to dugouts, -and, after further consultation, to fall back on the other two field -hospitals and Evacuation 4 at Écury-sur-Coole. These had been prepared -in advance for just such a contingency.</p> - -<p>The nurses left first. I took charge of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> patients, and -superintended the loading of them on ambulances and got the whole lot -loaded in a little over an hour.</p> - -<p>I had no leggings, in fact had nothing but trousers, socks, shirt and -jacket, so while we were waiting for transportation to move with, I -went in and Allison loaned me a razor with which I started to shave, -but while I was all lathered and had just commenced, they began -shelling again. I kept on, but had a good many nicks on my face, for I -could not keep my hand from jerking when they whizzed over. About five -minutes after I left the hut it was struck and completely demolished.</p> - -<p>Got down to Écury in time for a bite to eat (lunched with Campbell), -then went back to Triage where I had been working all night. Short of -ambulances. Sent Fagely out to find trucks. He got some thirty Q. M. -trucks and pressed them into service. Majorie Nott and several other R. -C. women came on the scene, making coffee and sandwiches.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span></p> - -<p>Wounded pouring in. Triage crowded. A. lost his head and was flying -around like a madman. Many necessaries lacking. Profanity flying. -Night. Dare not show a light. Promptly at ten p.m. air full of avions, -dropping twenty or more bombs on Châlons. Saw three large fires. -Wounded coming in all night. Six operating teams going, but not half -enough. They can't nearly handle the work, and too many men kept -waiting who need urgent attention.</p> - -<p>Two p. m. Avions again over Châlons and us. More bombing. The sky full -of searchlights. Dawn. Almost dead. Two nights and a day, but the -wounded still coming in. At seven a.m. am relieved by some one. Go down -and climb in Spielman's bed and sleep till ten a. m., then go on duty.</p> - -<p>Third night. Châlons bombed. Aviator flew over us. He could not have -been one hundred feet above the tents, and in the moonlight clearly -visible. He dropped two bombs. No one hurt. Don't remember how long -exactly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> we stayed here, but think it was eight or ten days. Châlons -bombed nightly.</p> - -<p>About the sixth day returned to Vardanay. The house was locked and -Madame M. gone, but climbed in the window, got my belongings and put -them in the motor. The village was deserted, save for a few old women -and a child. They sat around the mouth of the cave and went below -whenever the shelling started. It was a pathetic sight. I left some -money with them, which surprised them more than the shells.</p> - -<p>There is a lot of talk about the rotten way things were handled in -general. Not enough ambulances, nor general equipment, and such as we -had was antiquated.</p> - -<p>About July 24th or 25th, orders to move. Where, no one knows. Started -cross country with field hospitals, going west.</p> - -<p>Château-Thierry. Started in all over again. Night and day wounded -pouring in. Insufficient ambulances. Insufficient hospitalization.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> Not -an evacuation hospital on the scene till the main push is over. Two -field hospitals taking the brunt of the work. Transporting wounded in -trucks thirty-five kilometers clear to Commercy.</p> - -<p>Pushed on with the troops to Épieds and later to Fère-en-Tardenois. -Much evidence that the Boche is beating a hasty retreat, from the -quantities of stores and munitions left behind.</p> - -<p>Considerable bombing. Was almost caught on the road by three bombs -returning from La Ferté with Perry.</p> - -<p>We pulled out the end of August and left for Bourmont near Chaumont. -En route spent three delightful days in a small French château in -Lysantry, five kilometers from La Ferté. The old caretaker cooked for -me and I ate under the trees. I hated to go.</p> - -<p>We understand the Division gets thirty days' rest, but we get seven, -then orders to move. All night groping our way in the dark,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> arrive in -Longchamps at dawn in a drizzling rain. I knocked on the door of the -first house in the village and after a long pause was admitted by a -very old man. He had a fine spare room and without undressing I wrapped -myself in blankets and fell asleep. The old man was eighty-six and his -wife eighty-four. They lived there all alone.</p> - -<p>Next day moved to Chatenois two kilometers away where headquarters -were. No news of probable destination. Three nights later another move, -this time to Germiny on the road to Toul, or rather just off it. Dirty -little place, but got a fair billet. Two nights here, then all night on -the road, arrived at Bicqueley in early morning and camped by roadside -thirty-six hours (B. is ten kilometers south of Toul). Later on to -Bruley. Rotten billets. The place is full of French and everything is -crowded. Rain and mud.</p> - -<p>Probably the attack will be at St. Mihiel.</p> - -<p>Saw a ghastly notice posted in the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>Y. M. C. A. to the effect that if -any of our men were taken prisoner and questioned to say nothing; that -torture would undoubtedly be used, and that such men would never be -allowed to return alive, no matter what they said. It ended by saying -let them meet Eternity with the knowledge they had done their duty. It -gave me a thrill as I read it.</p> - -<p>At most of our stops I have been fortunate in finding French families -where I could get something to eat.</p> - -<p>It is St. Mihiel. We move to Ansauville. The attack commences—I forget -the date. In fact, one seldom knows it. We are in advance of the -heavies, they firing over our heads. The show opens at one thirty a. m. -It is drizzling. The fire is very intense, but nothing like Souain.</p> - -<p>By four p.m. the guns ease off and the men go over. Met Normand who -was in charge of Vittel, also a Major Finck, a fine man. They asked me -to billet with them. The whole place is shot to pieces and there is -scarcely any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> shelter to be found. We three, and sometimes a fourth -casual, sleep in a kitchen. It is about the only place that has half a -roof.</p> - -<p>Later next day Normand and I pushed north with the advancing troops. -The roads were simply jammed, but we followed up, finally getting into -Essie. Every one is wild with enthusiasm, for the Boche is simply on -the run. Groups of German prisoners are constantly passing us on the -road down. Many have their knapsacks all packed, so must have been -expecting us. I counted over eleven hundred going through the fields. -They certainly make a most cheering sight.</p> - -<p>We pass through several small towns, nothing but a mass of rubble now. -The balloons are all moving forward.</p> - -<p>Essie is a mass of ruins. The 82nd Division is holding the place. None -of the transports have come up and there is still intermittent shelling.</p> - -<p>The 42nd's triage is here in a cellar. We met<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> and talked to a large -number of the liberated civilians. They were happy, but very quiet. -Most of them were old people. One woman had a baby by a Boche. Every -one pointed her and it out, but it was more in the spirit of historical -interest than anything else. An unfortunate accident. She clutched the -baby as if in her eyes it was a perfectly good infant.</p> - -<p>Toward night we made our way back and the next day started for -Thiaucourt to help get out the civil population. The town was fairly -intact when we first entered it, but while we were there they started -up a violent artillery action. Soon buildings began to go. Most of the -shelling was for one of their ammunition dumps they had abandoned in -their precipitous flight. However, a little later the guns were turned -on the town.</p> - -<p>We got out all the civilians without any casualties. I have heard -since that the place is completely wrecked. They kept on shelling it -intermittently until November 11th.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span></p> - -<p>A few days later we went out to Pont-à-Mousson. (We referring to -Normand and myself.) The action had shifted more to the east, judging -from the intensity of the artillery action. We passed out along the -Thierry road. The lines had, of course, all pushed forward, but the -place was just lined with the old gun emplacements. As our road -gradually neared the Boche lines one could hear that a very heavy -duel was in progress. We continued to the cross-road which turns into -Pont-à-Mousson. Shells were dropping here every three minutes. We timed -them, and when one exploded, beat it, full steam ahead. Our batteries -were more terrifying than Fritz's, because they were on both sides of -the road and were going off right under your nose.</p> - -<p>When we arrived in the town things were very active. We took shelter -in an abri for a time, but as most of the shells were passing over, -searching out our "heavies" behind the town, we decided to walk along, -across the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> river and climb into Mousson, a high conical hill where the -French observation post was. It was a long, hot pull with a constant -accompaniment of whistling shells, but when we got there it was well -worth while.</p> - -<p>The post was on the very top in some partially demolished buildings, -the view from whence was superb. One, with the aid of the glass, could -see Metz distinctly, even reading the time on the Cathedral clock.</p> - -<p>Five hundred yards across to the next hill was the German observation -post, but "noblesse oblige," they left one another alone. Below, across -the river, were three German towns with the peasants working quietly in -the fields, and right across the river was one of the Crown Prince's -many châteaux, untouched, although one of our 75's could have blown it -to fragments in five minutes.</p> - -<p>As the gun-fire was likely to increase rather than diminish with -sunset, we started down the hill and back through Pont-à-Mousson.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> -The place was all but deserted, only a few Americans hanging around -the mouths of abris. We found our motor and driver, however, after -some little search, keeping careful lookout in the meanwhile where the -shells were falling. Just as we were leaving the town two 77's broke in -the road behind us, but doing no further damage than to cover us in a -cloud of earth.</p> - -<p>Two days later ordered to move forward and accordingly took position -at Beaumont just behind Sains made famous by the stand of the Marines -earlier in the summer.</p> - -<p>Beaumont was nothing but a mass of wreckage and mud. We pitched the two -field hospitals on the ground floor of all that remained of an old-time -château, while the officers lived in the abandoned French dugouts. -These were fairly comfortable, but infested with rats. The whole place -is a sea of mud and filth.</p> - -<p>During most of the St. Mihiel drive we had fine weather, except the -first three days. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> drive started September 12th, with the moon in -the first quarter, consequently we had great German aerial activity. -One evening a Boche plane was brought down by one of our men just at -sunset. Both Germans were killed. Every night planes flew over our -heads all night, but fortunately nothing fell near us.</p> - -<p class="center">* * * * * * * *</p> - -<p>On September 26th I was detached from the 42nd Division and sent as -Medical Consultant to the Justice Group of seven hospitals at Toul. H. -C. Madden (Lt.-Col.) was Commanding Officer—an efficient man. The work -here is purely medical and very tame after the Division. I was much -disappointed as Thayer had promised me the 3rd Army Corps.</p> - -<p>Toul is a dreary place and the darkest corner of France I have found. -I have tried to organize the service, a thing requiring some tact, as -each hospital has an excellent chief of its own medical service.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span></p> - -<p>On October 6th I got into Paris for the Red Cross medical meeting. It -was my first sight of real civilization since the previous April when I -hated the everlasting dreary nights. However, this time it did not make -much difference, as I was dog-tired and only too glad to turn in after -dinner. Spirits are brighter moreover with the continuing good news. ***</p> - -<h2><i>The Last Salvo</i></h2> - -<p><i>November 11th.</i> <i>The last salvo was fired at eleven this morning!</i> -While I was in Paris called on L. There were two old chatterboxes there -who cackled about divorces and clothes. It gave me such a strange -sensation and seemed so unreal and trivial. I suppose the world must go -on in spite of war—"battle, murder and sudden death."</p> - -<p><i>November 18th.</i> Was commissioned Lieutenant-Colonel to-day and walked -down town and bought some silver leaves in the afternoon.</p> - -<p>On November 3rd a telegram from Helen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> telling me that dear father had -died on the tenth of October. I had expected it, but it was a shock.</p> - -<p><i>November 24th.</i> Have just returned from what I hope will be the last -Paris medical meeting. I want to get home, and kicking about the city -is pretty dreary. Called on every one I knew. Saw Dorziat and Lucien -Guitry in "Samson" and supped at Maxim's.</p> - -<p>Have applied for home, and am hoping with all my heart that it will go -through. Work over here is an awful anti-climax now.</p> - -<p><i>December 6th.</i> Toul. Called up Neufchâteau three days ago and spoke to -Major McLean. General Thayer, as usual, was not there. However, McLean -told me I would get my home orders. The same night Colonel Thornburgh -told me he had arranged matters so I could go, but now it was necessary -to wait for my rating card before the final orders could be issued, so -here I am, waiting.</p> - -<p>Last night we went over to a musical show<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> at the Marshal Ney Barracks. -It was very poor—absolutely devoid of imagination or humor.</p> - -<p>This morning I got the motor after some scrapping and took Yocum, -Hodges and Kennon over to Metz. We went via Pont-à-Mousson. There -was a thick fog which practically obscured the views. As we passed -through Pont-à-Mousson I could not but think of the time I was last -there with Normand when shells were coming and going all the time. The -road was still fairly full of transports, but nothing like old times. -Pont-à-Mousson was more shot up than when I last saw it, and it was -almost deserted.</p> - -<p>From there we soon ran into German territory, with old gun -emplacements, camouflage and ruined buildings all along the road.</p> - -<p>Metz was gaily decorated with flags, and the streets were gay with -French and Americans, but the whole air suggested a conquered city. -Some shops had posted "Maison <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>Française" on the door; painters were -rapidly changing the signs from German to French. The Hotel welcomed -one, but everywhere it was with the air of the conqueror. The people -were frightened and did not know what was going to happen. There -were only eight thousand real Alsace-Lorraines in the city, so an -intelligent German officer told me, and most of the "hurrahing" was -done from policy.</p> - -<p>Boys and men were doing a thriving business in selling Boche souvenirs. -Iron crosses and belts being their specialty. And the Americans were -the victims, especially the large army who fought the war in swivel -chairs and are seeing the front for the first time.</p> - -<p>In spite of all tales to the contrary, the shops seemed full, -especially the provision stores. Prices are very high. I saw plain -women's hats, that are generally seen at a store like Macy's piled by -hundreds in a box and selling for fifty cents, marked fifty and sixty -francs. There was no rubber, so bicycle tires were made of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> steel -spring arrangement and one of rope. Shoes had wooden soles.</p> - -<p>We had a very good plain dinner, but paid ten francs for what -ordinarily would have been about three marks. The beer was simply -bitter water.</p> - -<p>Coming home we passed on the other bank of the Moselle and back through -Lorry, Fleury, Meiul-la-Tour, and so home, but the roads were all -deserted—so very different from my previous visits.</p> - -<p><i>December 12th.</i> Yesterday Fullerton (Major Robert Fullerton of St. -Louis) asked me to go to Montfaucon and Varennes with him. We started -this morning at eight a. m. in a drizzling rain and fog.</p> - -<p>On our way out we went through Commercy, St. Mihiel and Verdun. The -latter looked much tidier than when I saw it in July with Brewer. Out -of Verdun through the Gate St. Paul into the beyond on the Montfaucon -road, the battlefield is still fresh. The destruction<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> is worse than -anything I have so far seen. The earth for miles is torn with shells, -one hole knocked out and then the edge of that hole knocked into -another. Several of the holes were twelve to fourteen feet deep, and -thirty-five or forty feet across. Everywhere was wreckage; gunners' -positions, guns (77's), machine guns, clothes, rifles and quantities of -Boche ammunition; all the towns about were obliterated.</p> - -<p>While we were waiting at the former Crown Prince's house, the owner -turned up after an absence of four years and three months. I wish I -could describe the scene. She was a plump little woman of fifty-five or -more. Two men friends drove her out from somewhere. We were standing in -the door when she descended from the old trap. She came in through the -mud and announced in a cheery voice that this was her old home. There -was a little tremor in her voice when she turned and said: "There was -the salle-à-manger, but gentlemen, as you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> see, it is all no more. We -left it at two a. m. September 2nd, 1914, and with it everything in my -life departed." Still the voice was cheery. "My husband, son-in-law and -two sons have been killed. My grandfather, who was buried over there -(pointing) has been turned out of his grave." She then looked around a -few minutes, gazing in a wistful way, then walked out the front door, -turned and looked back at the mass of wreckage. Her lips trembled, she -covered her mouth with her hand, and we heard a few soft sobs. Then she -quietly turned, pulled up her skirts and tramped out into the muddy -road.</p> - -<p>Cressy à Varennes. We passed through there on the way back. Like -the other neighboring towns it only exists in name. The same utter -desolation, shell holes, tin cans, wire, guns, shells, fog and rain. -Nothing can ever picture the dreary awfulness of it all. It looked as -if the sun had faded and we were at the end of the world, stepping into -the Infinite.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p> - -<p>Back to Toul at seven and it was good to see a few lights burning in -the homes.</p> - -<p><i>December 13th.</i> Raining hard all day, but very warm and balmy. -Cornelia Landon and Rose Saltonstall of Boston are at our mess for -a few days. I asked Colonel Thornburgh to invite them, as they were -billeted here and sick. The Madame told me there were two sick -Americans down there, and I was much surprised to see little Landon. -Saltonstall is very bright and attractive. We don't see much of them, -for they only show up for lunch, playing in the evening.</p> - -<p>It seems strange to be sitting December 13th with your window open, -enjoying the efforts of the moon to work through the clouds.</p> - -<p><i>December 15th.</i> Went to Neufchâteau on the excuse of seeing Thayer, -who was not there. A beautiful sunny day. Met Tommy Robertson at the -Officers' Club and had a fairly good representation of a real cocktail.</p> - -<p>Landon and Saltonstall left this morning. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> did not see them again, -but they left two nice little good-by letters.</p> - -<p><i>December 20th.</i> A bit colder. There was a flurry of snow yesterday, -but still, with the exception of a few days in October, there has been -no cold weather.</p> - -<p>Took my daily walk up to the railroad track. Found the life of P. T. -Barnum among some old books and read hard for two hours.</p> - -<p>Colonel T. has an attack of rheumatism, is in bed, and feels very sorry -for himself.</p> - -<p>We take Christmas dinner at B. H. 45, that is unless I have the good -luck to get away before then. Every one is beginning to feel very -homesick and restless. I cannot realize that Christmas will be here in -four days. There isn't a suggestion of it in the air.</p> - -<p>The children keep up a continual chatter in the next room, but strange, -it is rather pleasant than otherwise. If they would only not start the -squeaky old pump at seven in the morning!</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Christmas Eve, 1918.</i> It hardly seems possible that another year has -rolled by and Christmas is here again. One year ago to-night, and now -here again in Toul.</p> - -<p>Goodall, Yocum and self went to Nancy this afternoon. In the evening -the Delatté children came in my room, played the piano and they danced. -I gave them some candy; then to supper.</p> - -<p>Dinner was pretty sad. Never try and be gay, is a rule that should be -taught in childhood.</p> - -<p>My landlady, is having "tea" at nine this evening, and I am expected to -join. The day started beautifully, but it is sleeting hard now. And mud -everywhere.</p> - -<p>No signs of Christmas anywhere among the French, except Madame Delatté -asked me to go to Midnight Mass with her. She got confessed this -afternoon, and is ready now for another year of miserliness. Much to my -astonishment, she made me a brioche.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>December 28th.</i> Waiting! Waiting for orders to return. Cadwalader -called me up Friday and said he had received his, and that my name was -on the same paper, but nothing has come. It is very trying. Over three -weeks now in daily anticipation.</p> - -<p>Yocum, Goodall and self went to Neufchâteau. Saw Finney, Boggs and -Longcape, but no one knew anything about what was happening. We lunched -and came back by way of Domremy, Jeanne d'Arc's birthplace. Then across -via Voucoleur to Colombey-la-Belle. Heavy fog and rain, as usual. There -were no lights on the machine, so we had to grope the last four miles -home.</p> - -<p><i>New Years Eve.</i> By special invitation I was asked to see the old year -out with Madame De Salle, my neighbor of the next room. There was great -stirring about all afternoon in her rooms, and I could hear a stirring -of something in a bowl. Phillip, her son, age eight, came in to get me -at eight p. m., but I did not turn<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> up till nine. When all the guests -were assembled, which was promptly at nine, we sat down, ate a piece -of dry sponge-cake, drank a small glass of white wine, then a little -coffee. Lieutenant Le Beau, Madame Gérard, the local teacher of the art -of piano-playing, a fat, healthy, false-toothed dame, Madame Ralling, -and her son waxing into manhood, down on his upper lip and a voice that -wabbled from treble to bass. At midnight we all kissed.</p> - -<p>But this is all as nothing now, for it is January 2nd, 1919, and -at three fifteen p. m. this afternoon, after all hope of anything -immediate had vanished, received orders for home. Telegraphed H. and -leave for Paris Saturday, January 4th, en route for Angers and from -there to a port of embarkation.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span></p> -<p> -<br /><br /></p> - -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A DOCTOR IN FRANCE, 1917-1919***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 60343-h.htm or 60343-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/0/3/4/60343">http://www.gutenberg.org/6/0/3/4/60343</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: A Doctor in France, 1917-1919 - The Diary of Harold Barclay - - -Author: Harold Barclay - - - -Release Date: September 23, 2019 [eBook #60343] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A DOCTOR IN FRANCE, 1917-1919*** - - -E-text prepared by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by -Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustration. - See 60343-h.htm or 60343-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/60343/60343-h/60343-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/60343/60343-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/b2993090x - - - - - -A DOCTOR IN FRANCE - -1917 . 1919 - - -[Illustration] - - -A DOCTOR IN FRANCE -1917 . 1919 - -The Diary of - -HAROLD BARCLAY - -Lieutenant-Colonel American Expeditionary Forces - - - - - - -New York -Privately Printed -1923 - -Copyright 1923 by Helen Barclay -Printed in the United States of America - - - - -EDITOR'S NOTE - - -Harold Barclay, son of Sackett Moore and Cornelia Barclay Barclay, was -born in New York City, August 14, 1872. At Cazenovia, N.Y., his parents -had their country home and there by the beautiful Lake of Cazenovia he -spent his early years and grew up with that great love for the country -and dislike of cities which lasted all his life. - -He entered Harvard University (class of 1897) but left after the first -year as he wished to go to Europe. After traveling a few months he -went to Germany to study music. He had a beautiful voice and was a -natural musician, and so great was the encouragement he received from -his teachers that for some time he considered making music his life -work. But other counsels prevailed and he finally chose the career of a -physician--a choice which his great success fully justified. - -In 1899 he graduated from the College of Physicians and Surgeons. He -had, however, found time to serve his country in the Spanish-American -War, when he acted as medical assistant in Troop A, United States -Volunteers in Porto Rico. - -In April, 1906, he married Helen Fuller Potter, daughter of the Rev. -Dr. Eliphabet Nott Potter. - -During all these busy years, his love of music and travel continued -and always when possible his holidays were spent in European travel or -scientific studies in France or Germany. - -When in 1917 America entered the World War, Dr. Barclay received a -commission as captain and went overseas in the Roosevelt Hospital Unit. -Promoted to Major in February, 1918, he was later transferred to the -42nd (Rainbow) Division, in which he served during the heavy fighting -at Chateau-Thierry and St.-Mihiel. In November, 1918, he became a -Lieutenant-Colonel and was ordered home January 2, 1919. - -Dr. Barclay was traveling with his wife in France when his sudden death -occurred at Biarritz in the summer of 1922. - - - - -PART I - -_With the Roosevelt Hospital Unit_ - - - - -1917 - - -_June 30th._ At last, after six weeks' waiting and more or less -uncertainty of the time of departure, the call has come in the form of -"Confidential Order No. 5" from the War Department. Hustle into uniform -and report for duty to Major Hansell at Roosevelt Hospital. We are told -to go home and report again Sunday, July 1st. - -_July 1st._ It really looks like business. The courtyard of the -Hospital is full of enlisted men having their outfits handed out to -them. The whole dispensary is littered with coats, trousers, blankets, -etc. The men are having identification discs given them and are packing -their kits and rolling blankets. They are really a fine-looking lot -of men, and from their general appearance a good many college men are -among them. - -We are told that we are really going to sail the following morning, -and that we must go home, pack and have everything on the pier (Pier -60) before sundown that night. Max is packing my things for me--an -officer's trunk, a Gladstone bag and a canvas roll with poncho blankets -and a "Gold Medal" canvas cot. We hustle them down to Pier 60 and -leave them standing there with a feeling that they will not be seen -again, as the whole pier is a mass of motor trucks and boxes of every -description. We are to sail on the S.S. "Lapland" on the south side of -the pier. The "Baltic" has just docked and is discharging cargo at a -tremendous rate. The rattle of the winches is deafening and there are -literally hundreds of stevedores at work. - -With a silent farewell my baggage is left, and then back to the house -where Helen and I lunch and start for Mt. Kisco for the afternoon. - -One still feels terribly conscious and queer in uniform. My memory -keeps going back to the days when Rob and I enlisted for the Spanish -War, a thousand little details keep coming up that I had long -forgotten. Camp Alger and its chaos, Newport News, and the transport -"Mississippi" and all its horrors. - -_July 2nd._ The order was to assemble at the Hospital at eight a.m. I -got there at 8:20 and everything was stirring. There is really nothing -for the majority of the officers to do. Rolfe Floyd is the busy one. -The regular Army men, Major Hansell in charge, and his Adjutant, -Captain Trinder, seem most efficient. They have really handled the -whole affair wonderfully, never once getting excited and every one -asking them hundreds of foolish questions. The amateur soldier is -really a horrible thing. No one can appreciate the difference between -military and civil life who has not tried them both. - -The enlisted men leave on sight-seeing coaches at 9:30, after a -preliminary line-up in the courtyard, and cheers for Colonel Mackay and -every one connected with the outfit. The officers get down as best they -can, so I go down in Dr. Dowd's motor with Floyd, arriving on the pier -at ten a.m. - -The "Lapland" has been painted war gray and is fitted with a new -mine-sweeping device, of which more later. There was quite a crowd of -people down there to see us off. Mrs. Vanderbilt, Clarence Mackay,--and -dozens of others whom I do not know. Except for the uniforms and the -gray paint on the ship, it seems just like a summer vacation trip. Our -baggage is wonderfully handled and everything put on board in the same -manner as in peace times. We are supposed to sail at twelve sharp. The -heat is intolerable. Our staterooms are fine; No. 33, upper deck room. -My lot was first cast with the Chaplain, but I told him McWilliams and -I were old Spanish War veterans, and so he let McWilliams bunk with me. - -At one o'clock we are still at the pier. Two hundred and sixty-five, -or some such number, of cots have not appeared and our indefatigable -Quartermaster Ward will not leave without them, so sweat on, and the -poor devils who came down to the pier wait on! - -About three thirty the cots are stowed on board, the whistle sounds -long blasts, the hawsers are cast off, and the thud of the great -engines begins. The crowd rush down to the end of the pier, where many -have waited since nine thirty in the morning apparently without any -lunch. They must be nearly dead. - -The thrill of other voyages comes back so vividly to my mind as the -great ship slowly warps out into mid-channel, but I am alone now and -all is so different, yet it is hard to realize it and I cannot help -feeling it must be a great big holiday--the harbor seems so bright, gay -and peaceful. We steam at a snail's pace down the bay, and in front of -the Battery the ship seems to float for ten minutes or so, the engines -just turning over. Officers, nurses and men gaze on the tall buildings -as if they were things of stupendous beauty. Each man seems to identify -some building that he knows about, or has worked in. I know none of -them, and try to locate the Barclay Building, but cannot. - -Finally we slip by the Battery, Governors Island and into the Lower -Bay. The waters seem crowded with shipping, the Dutch and English flags -being especially in evidence. There is one converted German steamer -flying the American flag. The "Vaterland" was lying quietly at her pier. - -The glasses Mr. Bird gave me were a source of great fun in trying to -pick out the details of the ships. They practically all had stern guns, -and the Dutch ships had great spears of national colors all over their -sides. Off Tompkinsville, or rather St. George's, Staten Island, we -passed the Dreadnought "Kansas," her decks crowded with jackies in -white duck. She looked awfully spick and span. - -Just below Tompkinsville we went through the opening in the net. One -could see distinctly the large buoys that marked its position, and the -small blocks that separated it. At the opening a Monitor lay anchored -and there were several motor-boats, of about forty to sixty feet long, -with big markings of "S.P. No. so and so." It was the first real -realization of war I had felt, and it gave one quite a little thrill. - -Steaming more rapidly down the channel now and passing numerous -tugboats apparently commandeered for patrol duty. Finally the pilot -boat comes in sight and the pilot slips down the side into the little -rowboat. Full steam ahead is given and we at last feel the motion of -the long Atlantic sweep. - -_July 3rd._ First day at sea and beautiful weather! The food and -service are excellent. The whole ship is run in the usual routine -manner, and it is increasingly hard to believe that the sea is filled -with pirates bent on our destruction, or that we are on war bent. The -nurses have taken off their street uniforms and donned summer girl -clothes, which further adds to the delusion of a holiday excursion. - -At noon General Headquarters are established in the foyer on Deck -4, with typewriters clicking away. There is much issuing of order -and proclamation. McWilliams is made officer of the day and totes a -cumbersome revolver lent him by Floyd and which is the badge of office. - -Captain Trinder, the Adjutant--a bully fellow full of punch and -go--gave the officers a talk on some of the elements of their duty in -the lounge room, and was listened to with marked attention as every one -is keen about mastering the details of his work. - -Thousands of questions are asked about the most elementary details, -because we are an absolutely ignorant lot as far as the military end is -concerned. What little drill knowledge I picked up in the Troop or in -the Spanish War has absolutely vanished. - -An edict has been put out from G. H. Q. that no rum is to be sold on -board and we are reduced to ginger ale and soda water. I managed to -pinch just one cocktail the first night, and it was good. - -The afternoon dragged along. We were ordered to get out life-preservers -and carry them with us wherever we go. This is an absolute rule and we -cannot be separated from them for an instant. The officers and men walk -around with the preservers strapped to their backs, carrying them even -to meals, where one kicks them under the table between one's feet while -eating. - -The rubber suits were gotten out and fixed on. I don't believe they can -ever be adjusted in a general excitement which is bound to ensue in a -smash-up, and then besides if there is any leak in the rubber, such as -a pin prick, they would slowly fill with water. I shall depend on the -old life-preserver. - -The night is wonderful. Officers and nurses sit on deck singing. And -they sing well. A beautiful full moon. - -_July 4th._ My turn as officer of the day which, among its other -duties, entailed dragging around "Rollo" Floyd's Colt automatic, -and this blunderbuss grew heavier each hour of the day, so that by -night-time it weighed nothing less than a ton. Was given a detail of -twenty men out of which I appointed, as per instructions, two Acting -Sergeants, one day and one night; two guards were assigned to Q. M. -Ward; three to Headquarters and six to prison guard. It being a holiday -the Headquarters and Q. M. guard were dismissed at noon, the prison -guard being the only one maintained. - -Visiting our only prisoner, I found him to be a clean-cut, alert man -of apparently more than average intelligence. I made the poor devil as -comfortable as possible, but was obliged to go through his baggage in -search of any incriminatory evidence and to take any weapons away from -him. These consisted of three razors, which were turned over to H. Q. -Thompson, the prisoner, is, I believe, an actor--probably a super. He -expressed a strong desire for a bible, so sent him the Chaplain later. -He thanked me very profusely for this. I exceeded orders and allowed -him to be on deck four hours, instead of two, as the day was stifling -and his cabin not the coolest place in the world. - -At night all singing was stopped as they say sound carries for a long -distance over the water. - -The life boats have all been swung out and men assigned to them. I am -commanding officer of boat No. 21, starboard side, or the alternate No. -22, port side. Which boat is launched depends upon which side we are -struck and how the ship lists. - -Being the Fourth of July the dinner had an extra course and a few extra -British and American flags about. In the evening we assembled in the -Second Cabin for a smoker, only no one was allowed to smoke as all -ports being closed you could cut the atmosphere. However, cigars and -cigarettes were passed around and, I suppose, were used later. We had -the usual burst of song, but it was such a beautiful warm night with -a full moon that every one hurried on deck. I made my last round at -eleven p.m. and turned in for a sound night's sleep. - -_July 5th._ Another wonderful, hot day with only a mere ripple on the -ocean. I turned over the old shooting iron to Floyd, and was jolly well -glad to be rid of it. We have boat drill at ten a.m. I am captain of my -boat. The orders are that in case of torpedo we man the starboard side -first; if the ship is so listed that we cannot launch that side we take -the port side. My boats are 21 starboard and 22 alternate port. I have -three lieutenants and fifteen men besides certain members of the ship's -crew. My boat is farthest astern; we are cut off from all commands on -the bridges, and if we have to go over will practically have to work on -my own initiative. - -At four p.m. the stern gun fired three practice shots at a smoke -target. The target was allowed to float about a mile leeward. The -first shot was over, but the second and third were bull's-eyes. It was -very pretty to see the shell ricochet. It made thin splashes in the -water. In one it was markedly deflected to the left. - -No smoking on decks after nightfall, and the smoking-room is so hot -with everything locked up that one rather went without than sit -indoors. It was a beautiful moonlit night and Russell and I sat on -deck till twelve p.m., then turned in where I found McWilliams snoring -peacefully. - -_July 6th._ An uneventful day. Trinder is drilling the officers for an -hour each afternoon. The parson tried to talk philosophy with me in -the cabin. I was tired and these old sex problems bore me to death. -He has just read one volume of Havelock Ellis and heard a lecture on -psycho-analysis and is full of it. I told him the only philosophy I had -was "live and let live," and all this analysis of a man's daily action -was a damned bore as far as I was concerned. He left me in a huff. He -is just bristling with uplift, but on the whole a good fellow. - -Turned in about eleven and read "Captains Courageous" for a couple of -hours, but got dreaming about subs and could not sleep. The ship's -company on the whole seem more or less concerned, but all keep -cheerful. My only hope is, that if anything happens, I won't lose my -head. - -_July 7th._ A cold, gray day, but a very pleasant change after the past -six days of suffocation. General inspection in flannel shirts at nine -a.m., and it was cold standing around. It was the first time I had -seen the men all drawn up together and they looked well. The parson is -peeved. He would hardly speak to me this morning, but it will probably -wear off in time. This is an awfully good, tame crowd. There is none -of the old freebooter spirit we had in '98. All older is probably the -answer. But even the younger men are very quiet. - -The nurses had a party. There were shrieks of laughter until late in -the night. - -_July 8th._ No drills nor work to-day. It is cloudy and very cold. At -ten forty-five Divine Service on deck. All the enlisted men, nurses -and officers were present. The service was quiet, impressive and very -earnest. The tension is growing hourly. - -At five p.m. all the boat commanders were summoned to Colonel Winter's -room to talk over final arrangements for boat personnel. They have not -swung my boats out yet, although I have spoken several times to Trinder -about it. They say that part of the ship is so much lower that if a sea -kicked up they would have to swing them in again. I certainly have a -mean station. - -At four p.m. we officers had a voluntary drill. I got a good bath -afterwards. It may be the last for several days, as it is suggested -that no one wants to get caught with clothes off. A good many men are -sleeping partially dressed to-night. The rumor is, to-morrow we _wear_ -preservers, not _carry_ them, and the time at meals is to be reduced to -a minimum. We all sat around in the smoking-room this afternoon. The -conversation was largely on submarines and army life. Colonel Winter -tried to put a bit of cheer into things with a few stories, but it was -hard. Outside the moon is trying to struggle out, the sea is dead calm, -and the ship is bleak as perdition. No ports or ventilators are allowed -to be opened. Fortunately, it is cold. - -_July 9th._ A day really of terrible suspense. We are in the danger -zone. The life-boats have been partially lowered over the side. Every -conceivable precaution is being taken. The nurses' suits are all laid -out on deck. Every one is strung up to the breaking point. All the -enlisted men have been moved up. Many are sleeping on deck. - -About five p.m. the Captain began his zig-zag course, making -wide sweeps every five or ten minutes. There were rumors that a -torpedo-boat would turn up late this afternoon, but now, at eleven -p.m., there is nothing in sight. And with it all it is the most -beautiful night ever conceived. A little moon half on the wane came -peeping up out of a bank of clouds, about ten thirty, making its silver -path of light and doubtless silhouetting us clearly against the sky. - -Passed a small freighter lower on the horizon before dinner. Everything -is scanned with most suspicious glances and carefully shunned. Well, -here it goes for a few hours' sleep, or an attempt at it, for it's up -at the first break of dawn. - -_July 10th._ Jim woke me a little before four a.m. We went out on deck. -A beautiful morning with the sun just rising. Peck was there and Miss -Francis, the head nurse, had been sitting up all night. She looked it. -I took a few turns and then turned in till eight thirty. - -Nothing of any particular interest, except we sighted another C. P. -boat with a torpedo-boat escort. It was curious to watch her. First she -was on one side and then the other. The zigzagging gets one completely -confused as to position. - -About six this evening a speck on the horizon and we break our number -from the fore truck and in a few minutes we come in plain view of our -convoy. She is a torpedo-boat destroyer, No. 38, with the "Stars and -Stripes" flying astern. We had a feeling of great relief. We gave her a -hearty cheer. To bed now and clothes off. - -_July 11th._ Woke up and climbed out on deck at three fifteen. Light -was just breaking and every one was on the qui vive. Watched the -serpentine for a bit and then turned in again and had a good snooze -till Eddie, the bath steward, routed me out for a plunge. Last wash on -board; we go dirty to-morrow, and then a good fresh-water tub and soap. - -Our destroyer was changed during the night. The rumor is that 38 went -in assistance to some other ship that was below us in our vicinity. - -There are surprisingly few boats seen--two sailboats, a trawler, and -one large steamer is preceding us. Just after lunch a large French -dirigible circled over us. She has been hovering around since early -morning, presumably looking for subs. - -It is pack up to-night and if we have luck we shall land early in the -a.m. About eight p.m. we sight the lighthouse off the bar, but cannot -cross until high tide on account of the risk of striking a mine. - -_July 12th._ On deck a little before seven when we cross the bar and -proceed slowly up the Mersey and drop anchor before the quay where -we wait for over two hours for the boarding officers. They arrive -after a long wait. Everyone is herded in the lounge where a captain -and three corporals go over all our papers and ask us if we carry any -correspondence. - -We disembark at noon. Then a short walk through the town with Peck, -Russell, etc., hunting for a cable office. I suppose all my letters -will be censored out of shape as I wrote fully describing the voyage. - -Major Keating met us at the wharf. He is the officer in charge of -embarkation, a perfect type of the English gentleman. Lunch on ship and -are entrained for Southampton direct, much to our disgust, for every -one was hoping for at least one day in London. The nurses are held over -in Liverpool for a tea or something; every one is most courteous. - -The train was scheduled to leave at two thirty p.m., but when made up -did not have sufficient room for officers, so three-quarters of an hour -delay while another first-class carriage is hunted up, but every one -takes it very casually and Major Keating chats very pleasantly with -us all. Finally the extra carriage arrives and we are loaded. Men are -loaded third class and we go first. Everything is conducted in an -orderly fashion with an eye to comfort. But it seems so strange to be -here and traveling under these conditions and in uniform. - -The train travels slowly with numerous stops, by Crewe, Stafford, -Birmingham. At each stop all the men pile out and rush for the -refreshment counter, much to the confusion of the placid females -who try to attend to them in their leisurely fashion. They call for -American drinks which the ladies have never heard of. A struggle with -the money. I know they think we are a bunch of lunatics. - -The liquor laws are very strict and appear very sensible. They allow -the sale of liquors and beer for two hours in the middle of the day and -for one half hour in the evening. No flasks can be sold from Thursday -night till Monday, so no man can take a supply home for consumption -over Saturday and Sunday. - -At a little after midnight we reach Southampton and are met by -General Balfour and his staff. The General has charge of the port of -Southampton and is responsible for practically all the embarkation of -troops and supplies for the seat of war. - -The General conducted us personally to the Northwestern Hotel where we -had the most comfortable quarters. A cold supper was waiting and the -closing law was waived. I had a good pint of ale. It was good after a -long hard day of travel. - -The country was as wonderful as ever, but in place of the flower -gardens one saw nothing but vegetables. We came down via Oxford and -saw many stretches of the Thames. It made me homesick because of the -pleasant days spent at Maidenhead with Helen in 1914. - -Will now continue with our arrival. The poor enlisted men were marched -three and a half miles to a camp which they reached at three a.m. Floyd -and Cave accompanied them. - -_July 13th._ It was ten o'clock when I awoke. The first real night's -sleep in over a week. Wonderful beds and a good bath made everything -bright. Breakfast with Martin on war bread (whole wheat) and coffee, -with usual accompaniments of boiled milk. Sugar is doled out like gold. - -Some of the officers went up to see the men in camp, but I toddled -around the town and saw the old wall. It seems that the "Mayflower" -sailed from here, and there is a monument to Elder Brewster of Scrooby -and John Alden and others of that merry party. After that wandered -around town, bought some puttees and a penknife. Met some of the others -and lunched at the "Dolphin," a typical old-time inn. - -The food laws are really strict, but then one gets all one needs. The -meat allowance per meal is something like five ounces as it comes from -the butcher, which means about three and a half ounces when served. - -At three p.m. embarked on the tender which is to take us out to the -hospital ship which is to run us across to Havre. We first run across -to another quay where we are to pick up the nurses who are due to -arrive at five forty-five. While waiting, General Balfour came down -again in his little yellow car and showed us the medal struck off in -Germany to commemorate the sinking of the "Lusitania." On the front -side was a ship going down by the bow, with guns and aeroplanes on -hand. On the reverse side was the Cunard ticket office with a skeleton -selling tickets. The exact inscription I cannot remember, but it meant -the desire for gain on the Cunard's part was the only consideration for -selling tickets. - -The nurses arrive in a flurry of excitement, having had the time of -their lives. They were given the freedom of the theaters at Liverpool -and were cheered as they entered, and a lunch at the Savoy where they -all agreed they were wonderfully feted. Interesting stories of our -ocean voyage were told them by Major Keating after we left. - -It seems that the destroyer No. 38 sunk a sub two hours before meeting -us. They also confirmed the report that the "Coyote" was sunk sixteen -miles ahead of us at one thirty a.m. It also seems that Pershing's -force was attacked by what is said to be a veritable sub flotilla, and -why none was sunk was just devilish good luck. - -Steam about four miles down the harbor to the "Grand Tulley Castle." -She is officially E-812, as all the boats are numbered now; the former -names having been painted over. She was formerly in the African trade. -Quarters are somewhat cramped, but she is as clean and comfortable -as one could wish. There is an operating theater on the forward main -deck, and between-decks are converted into wards. She is in command -of Major W. V. Robinson, R.A.M.C. The officers are all very agreeable -men and are doing everything to make us comfortable. No one can begin -to realize what England is doing who has not seen the activity of -Southampton. Just after we got on board two big transports passed us -loaded with troops, it was said, for Mesopotamia. - -_July 14th._ All day at anchor. No one allowed to leave the steamer. -The papers came on board in the morning. Towards sundown two more -transports leave again filled with troops. - -We all jumped overboard for a swim in the afternoon. Concert in the -evening by the men of the ship with ours. Every one seemed to have a -good time. - -The sunset was wonderful and the twilight lasted for nearly two hours. - -_July 15th._ Still at anchor with no news of our departure. Major -Robinson tried to get permission for the officers to visit Nutley -Hospital, but only succeeded in getting it for six, so the high ones -went--and said it was very interesting. - -At four p. m. weigh anchor, put out the mine-sweeper and are off, -escorted by two torpedo-boats which put out from Portsmouth. We pass -through the nets and around the Western part of the Isle of Wight. -Through the glasses Cowes looks absolutely deserted; the bath houses -are pulled back on the beach and, although it is a Sunday in midsummer, -one cannot see a child playing on the sands. This is equally true of -the beaches around Southampton, of which there are five or six. - -It is blowing a hard gale from the south. Orders are--sleep in clothes -and wear life-preservers. The run is considered dangerous. There are -many mine-sweepers at work around us. - -_July 16th._ We dock at the old Compagnie Generale Transatlantique -pier, most of which is turned into a hospital. More waiting and while -we wait a trainload of wounded arrive and are carried in litters aboard -the ship. I hear no complaint. Most of the men are smoking cigarettes. - -After several hours of cooling our heels we are told to go to the Hotel -Moderne by the French Commandant. Havre is entirely taken over by -the British. Most of the tram-cars are run by Tommies and the city is -policed by them. The men doing police duty walk in pairs, wear a red -band around their hats and have a brassard on the arm with "M. P." and -are a fine looking lot. The Moderne is an easy third-rate hotel. Am -rooming with McWilliams. - -In the early evening the Commandant calls again and tells us we are to -proceed to Vittel by a slow train. It is most disappointing as I had -hoped for a few days in Paris, especially as we had been sidetracked -from London. At the instigation of Major Bruce we proceeded to the -Etat Major of the Havre district, who finally agreed to telephone -to American headquarters at Paris. The answer comes that our orders -are absolute; that we were to embark at eight p. m. The train would -leave at nine p. m. and we would be approximately forty-eight hours en -route--no arrangements for sleeping or anything. The officers for which -I arrange had packages of two eggs, 400 grams of bread and 100 grams -of cheese. So we start off. A few Red Cross Frenchwomen and some men, -together with the French Commander and a file of about twelve soldiers -come down to see us off. The soldiers present arms, the Red Cross -ladies hand us a small nosegay of sweet peas, a small box of grapes is -entrusted to Henry Cave, and the train snorts out. The men go third -class, the nurses second class, officers first class, and we all go -like hogs! - -While at Havre, Russell, McWilliams, James and a few others motored -over to Etretat and saw Brewer, Darrach and his crowd. They are -delightfully situated. Saw Sally Strain and had a little chat with her. -Paul Draper was working in the outfit as an orderly. They took their -hospital over from the English who had everything working well and had -established a good precedent. - -_July 17th._ In the words of the prophet, "The hell of a night." We -tried to doctor the seats so one could lie down, but your head would -always come out lower than your feet and there was little use in -trying. About two hours was the average, with a cold-gray-dawn feeling -as if one had been on an all-night debauch. There was no use trying to -wash, because there was nothing to wash in or with. - -We opened the emergency package and had breakfast of hard-boiled eggs, -black bread and cheese. About six a. m. we pulled in to St. Lazaire -Station in Paris and in ten minutes were out again. Then backing and -filling for an hour when we landed at Noisy-le-Sec, nine kilometers -from Paris. There we were told by the lieutenant we had missed our -connection and would remain till two thirty. - -Noisy-le-Sec is a poor working suburb of Paris. Just why we could -not have been left in Paris to have a comfortable breakfast is -probably unknown, except that when two alternatives are presented--a -comfortable, convenient one, or an uncomfortable, inconvenient -one--the rules of the game seem to be always to take the more -inconvenient of the two. There is apparently a lack of any definite -plan for us. - -We foraged around Noisy, got a good bath and managed, for an exorbitant -price, to obtain a fair dejeuner in a small workingman's restaurant -which was filled with military. - -As one travels through the country the results of the war are very -apparent. The countryside is deserted and only women are seen working -in the fields. It's women, boys and old men. The lovely flowers that we -formerly saw in such profusion are scarcely seen now. In spite of the -shortage of labor, however, the fields are all well planted. - -Constant trains filled with soldiers are passing northward, and at -every station we stop there are a number waiting to join their commands -or coming home on leave. During the afternoon we jogged along at about -twenty-five kilometers an hour with frequent long stops. At seven -o'clock some more brown bread and cheese. I had gotten a bottle of red -wine during our few minutes' stop in Paris which helped things along -nicely. Then about ten we settle down for our second night. - -_July 18th._ Every one woke up feeling pretty ragged. Goodness knows -how the nurses stand it as well as they have, because they stick their -noses out in the cold gray dawn looking pretty fresh. - -At Troyes last night some Canadian nurses came down to meet the train. -The station was simply packed with soldiers. - -Well, ten thirty a. m. and the miserable, dirty old train draws into -Vittel, and it was with some pleasure that I saw the end of the -rat-hole we had lived in for thirty-eight hours. - -Met by a French officer. They knew we were coming, but had no orders -what to do with us, so we are bundled through a deserted town to the -Hotel Vittel Palace, which is an annex of one of the larger hotels -and has been serving as a military hospital. Well, the least said -about this place the better. No towels, no toilet articles or looking -glasses. There is one bathtub at the end of a long corridor which we -all have to use. No one to clean it out. In fact, nothing is done and -the whole place, in spite of the fact it is a hospital, is filthy. -McWilliams, James, Stillman and I have one room which could hold two in -a pinch. Nowhere to store anything. The mess is horrible. It is in the -old ballroom surrounded with beds. We sit on hard benches. Breakfast is -hard bread, no butter and some horrible liquid called coffee without -sugar--worse than anything we had during the Spanish War. - -_July 20th. Vitell._ Just kicking around. No orders. There is a rumor -we are to move about twenty miles from here into barracks which are now -under construction. Anything to get out of here. - -The French are most polite. The men all salute us in the streets, -several men and women coming up and talking to us. When Russell, -James, Stillman and myself went to a neighboring hotel for a good lunch -we were given a good round of hand-clapping as we walked into the -dining-room. I shouted in return, "Vive la France." Many officers have -come up and spoken to us. I have never tried to talk French so hard in -my life and that which I do speak is simply awful, but they take it in -good part and try and help me out. - -This morning in watching the tennis I asked a Frenchman where I could -get racquets and balls. He brought up an English captain (Lucas), -who explained everything to me and insisted on introducing me to a -Frenchwoman, Madame Somebody, who, he said, played a good game, so -have a date to play with her at five p. m., consequently have rummaged -to get a pair of tennis shoes, but there is nothing big enough for -me, except a pair of dirty brown canvas sneakers, and I have to wear -my long military trousers. I hate doing things when I have not the -appropriate clothes. - -I went out this afternoon trying to make some arrangement at the -different hotels for an officers' mess, but they want ten francs which -is too much as practically all the men are living on their pay. The -English do well for their men and officers. They give a good mess and, -I think, clothing allowance, for they all seem to be on Easy Street. - -Well, here goes for the tennis! - -The tennis was good fun. The two women played very well, but the -men--first one and then a younger fellow took up the game--were not -much good. - -Dined at the hotel with Russell. - -_July 21st._ Tried to get some white duck trousers to play tennis in, -but no luck, so shall have to stick to the old army ones unless I can -manage to borrow a pair. - -Captain Ward turned up just after we had finished lunch. He looked dead -beat, said he had an awful time as neither the French nor English -Government had any orders concerning him. They crossed the Channel on -a ship loaded with troops and horses. They said the French had treated -them much better than the English. - -Majors Robert Bacon and McCoy were here this morning looking over the -place. There are rumors that Pershing may make it his headquarters. - -Peck, Hansell and Trinder motored over to Contreville. They reported -that it was a smaller place and not nearly so attractive. They go to -Gondrecourt, which I understand is the Divisional Headquarters of -General Sibert. - -The order came to-day that we were to wear the belt and shoulder piece, -the same as the English officers. It will make our shabby uniform look -smarter. - -Russell and I are trying to get leave for seventy-two hours to get to -Paris. I hope it can be done as I want very much, in spite of the -expense, to see what is going on. - -Ward brought a little mongrel fox-terrier puppy with him from Havre. -My, but it made me want to see Bluffie. - -I had a wonderfully vivid dream last night. I dreamt I was back in -Cazenovia, riding old Jonnis, the horse, and that we had just been -discharged from the Spanish War, and that all this rotten business was -over. I could not imagine for some minutes where I was on awakening. -But it gives me the creeps, as the men are already making arrangements -for the winter. - -_July 22nd._ Was made mess officer and spent the whole afternoon -running around the epicier shops buying eggs, coffee, etc. Prinzen is -the chief cook. Eggs are scarce--three francs per dozen. The men were -getting pretty hungry. - -I obtained permission to go to Paris, so am leaving on the one p.m. -train with Russell. Packed my valise and am off. It is good to get -away from the crowd and to be free, even for a few hours. - -We arrive in Paris at ten p. m. There were very few taxis, but we -managed to secure one and went to the Ritz. Paris is absolutely dark; a -dim light flickers every two blocks, but the streets are so dark in the -interim that it is with difficulty you can see people approaching. At -ten as we drove down the Rue de la Paix and into the Place Vendome it -was absolutely deserted save for two girls. This is not metaphor, but -absolute. - -After depositing our bags we groped our way along the Rue de Rivoli and -into the Place de la Concorde. Three belated private limousines sneaked -past us as if they were ashamed to be out so late. Otherwise, silence -and darkness. It was as if the hand of death had suddenly closed down -on the whole world and left one with an eerie, creepy feeling. A lone -gendarme was standing under a feeble lamp. He seemed glad to see us. I -counted eight lamps burning in the place and that was all. The change -was profound, almost terrible. I shall be glad to get to the hotel and -in my room and turn on all the lights. - -_July 23rd._ A wonderful night twixt clean, snowy white sheets, a rack -full of white clean towels and a porcelain tub all my own and hot -water. If any man with soul so dead cannot appreciate what that means, -let him follow the U. S. A. for three weeks. If he goes in the field -under canvas he is lucky, but if he is thrust in dirty hotels that have -been used as hospitals for three years, heaven help him, because no one -else will, and certainly not the U. S. A. - -Sent a note to Gabrielle Dorziat saying I was in town and asked her to -dine with me, but when I called she had gone to Epernay for a few days. -I was awfully sorry not to have seen her. - -Spent the whole morning tearing around with Russell. The Embassy, -Morgan, Harjes, American Express, etc. We went to Army Headquarters -at 21 Rue Constantin where I tried to present a letter to Colonel -Bradley, the M. O., but we found Medical Headquarters are at 10 Rue -Ste. Anne. Bradley was away, but we saw Mr. Ireland, Colonel. He is the -king-pin of the show. He gave us the depressing news that we would in -all probability be permanently stationed at Vittel. Called on Lillie -Havemeyer. She was moving to a new apartment at No. 38 Avenue Gabriel. -All was chaos, but she gave me a warm welcome and asked me to lunch -with her at Laurens the next day. Later I went to see Henry Clews. - -Henry has a charming hotel with a lovely garden. A fountain with ducks -and goldfish. A nice sleepy cat was watching the pigeons, and a bulldog -was watching the cat. The peace and quiet were wonderful. We had tea in -the garden. Henry was very quiet and just what his view of the whole -situation is it was hard to gather. He was very hospitable and asked -me to make my headquarters there any time I was in Paris. - -We dined at the Tavern Royal with a quart of sweet champagne. But the -best of all was a couple of cocktails at Maxim's beforehand. The Maitre -d'Hotel was very loquacious and told us most impressively that America -had come in none too soon because France was at the end of her tether. -This is what we heard everywhere. - -Paris by day appears on the surface very much as when we left in -September, 1914. The streets are crowded with uniforms of every -description and every now and then an American one, but as yet they are -very much in the minority. - -_July 24th._ Lunched with Lillie Havemeyer and Freddy. The afternoon, -more errands, a lemonade at Fouquet's, and dinner with Mrs. Duryea in -the evening. A very pleasant home dinner, just four--a Miss Carrol -making the fourth. In the evening M. Robinson came in. He apparently -had the affairs of France on his shoulders. - -I left early and walked down the Champs Elysees. It was very dark. -People were sitting on the benches and strolling about. It is -practically all one can do after nine in the evening. - -_July 25th._ We left Paris in the early morning and after nine hours -of sweltering heat and dust found ourselves back in the same old -place--grimmer than ever. It was hard to get in the dirty old bed after -the clean white sheets of the Ritz, and come down to one dirty towel -till you could get another, always a matter of uncertainty. I began my -struggles with the mess again. - -Coming down on the train we met a Dr. Water with the Johns Hopkins -unit. He had been making a tour of the hospitals. He said they had come -over with the first expeditionary force and had been at St. Nazaire for -some time, and while there they had witnessed the disembarkation of -all the American troops. He estimated them at about fifty thousand. -I played head waiter at evening mess, trying to get the men who -are working as waiters licked into shape, and in consequence got -indigestion. - -_July 26th._ The mess again. Am trying to arrange prices so that we -can buy a little cheaper, but it is difficult. Excessive charging -can be brought to the attention of the authorities, but every one, I -suppose, tries to ring in a few extra sous. However, I am getting the -tradespeople to submit prices and shall buy from the cheapest. - -All the men are working at their French. It is quite funny to see -them, and their accent is something terrific. The French are very -good-natured and many of them sit in the garden and give lessons for -pure love. - -Time drags very much. - -_July 27th._ A day of absolute inactivity. There are no golf or tennis -balls, so there is absolutely nothing to do except lie about and try -and talk French. I spent the morning sitting in the garden in one of -the twenty-five-centime armchairs. A few, not more than three or four, -demi-mondaines arrived, and they are at least a little more refreshing -to look at than the old rheumatics. - -I am struggling with the food problems. The coffee we get is rotten, -in spite of the fact we buy the best. The French are a curious lot. -I tried to stimulate competitive bids on food prices, but they show -absolutely no desire or interest in obtaining our trade. In America -every tradesman in town would be after our trade; here they are -absolutely indifferent and hardly take the trouble to submit prices. - -_July 28th._ Hot as hell and nothing to do. No tennis or golf balls can -be had. Up at eight, breakfast, talk to the greasy cook, look at greasy -meat, go to greasy stores and buy greasy food. Such is the day for -which Uncle Sam pays us $7 per day and expects you to cough up at least -$4 for food and clothes. - -C'est la vie! - -_July 29th._ Cooler, overcast. There is a rumor of tennis balls being -procurable. Also about twenty pages of directions regarding mail -censorship, etc. All of which was duly read and all the information -which could be derived therefrom was that you could mention the -weather, the state of your health, and there it ended. No date, nothing -on letterhead, signature in a certain corner, and a thousand other -things. About five hundred letters and postal cards were returned this -morning marked "Improper to forward." The French term is "Achamement." - -_July 30th._ Cloudy and later raining. A violent thunder-storm Sunday -night. This is the first rain since leaving U.S.A. - -Major Hansell started classes on Field Service Regulations. We are to -have it two hours every morning, with an hour of drill in the p. m. -In addition, individual officers have been assigned special subjects -to report on. I have been given "Demography in so far as it relates -to the Vital Statistics of the Army." This is to be summarized and -reported upon from an article by Lieutenant-Commander Weston P. -Chamberlain. In the evening Russell and I gave Ward, Trinder, Hansell -and Peck a dinner at the Grand Hotel. Such things may seem trivial but -they mean much. Still no definite orders and simply marking time. - -_July 31st._ Making up mess statement. Trinder, Floyd and Steiner went -to Nancy this morning to get funds for pay day tomorrow. The enlisted -men are much excited at the prospect of getting money. They have all -patronized the cafe freely, buying candies, chocolates and cigarettes. -Candy is in great demand. Even the officers are consuming it in great -amounts. It seems strange to see men using it in such amounts. I went -to the candy shop in the Arcade to get some this morning, and the woman -was practically sold out. - -Two of the men go to Paris to-day at one p. m. to bring down a -motor-truck and the two mascot dogs that were given to the Unit. They -have been given a large number of commissions, among them one for -tennis and golf balls. - -_August 1st._ After two days' hard rain a beautiful clear day. It dried -sufficiently in the afternoon for some fine tennis. The box of athletic -goods has been opened and it was a real pleasure to get a good racquet -and some new balls. - -Russell, Stillman and myself dined at the Grand. At nine p. m. the -French officers tendered us a reception. We all sat around a long -table. Sweet champagne and a pyramid of cake were served with French -and American flags stuck in them. Major L---- made a speech of welcome -in French, then read a translation which somebody had evidently made -for him; his attempts at pronunciation nearly choked the poor man, for -he mopped the sweat from his brow and drained his glass at a gulp. At -the conclusion a toast to the American and French Armies was drunk. -Then Hansell arose and read a very nice little speech which Widener -attempted to translate, but all the jokes fell as dead as Caesar -translated. - -The surprising thing was that among our men only one can speak French -and only a few understand anything. The French were no better off. -Still we struggled along, and all had, or seemed to have, a good time. -The party broke up by our singing the "Marseillaise" in English and -then "Oh, Say, etc." and finally "Way Down upon the Swanee River." The -French tried to respond, but broke down and explained they never sang -like that. - -Cave did not come home till one o'clock. Great excitement! - -Pershing and some of his staff came in the Grand while we were there. -He is an exceedingly fine-looking man. - -_August 2nd._ Just one month to-day since leaving home. - -Collected my mess funds to-day from the men, paid cooks and strikers. -I hope I can manage the accounts. It is a fussy, nasty job. They are -not going to let us eat here much longer, so we will try and make -arrangements with one of the hotels. I shall be glad at least to eat -outside of this filthy place. - -_August 3rd._ Nothing but rain. - -_August 4th._ Rain in showers all day. Tried to get a walk in the -afternoon, but torrents of rain drove us to cover. - -Moved to the Lorraine Hotel for our mess. This cuts me out of much -fussing. - -_August 5th._ Rain. Separated from the Lorraine mess and am taking my -meals separately on the Terrace. It costs a franc fifty extra, but the -peace is well worth it. - -In the evening a trainload of wounded arrived. There were over two -hundred and fifty--sixty stretcher cases, the remainder gas and minor -injuries, principally involving the extremities. Our men marched up to -the station and the new ambulances were drawn up on the siding. The -train pulled in packed with the wounded. They were all very quiet and -uncomplaining. I questioned several men. They came from Hill 304. They -said there was a new gas used there, which when launched was invisible, -producing no fumes and not creating any injury until the body comes -in contact with water. Thus a man getting wet or washing his face the -next day would receive a skin burn. If this is true the gas-mask would -afford but little protection. On coming back to the hotel I saw many -burns of the extremities; they had marked conjunctivitis. The stretcher -cases seemed mostly wounds of the extremities. - -In talking with the French, and this observation is borne out by -others, it seems that on the whole they are taking the war in a very -matter-of-fact spirit, and the blood-thirsty desire to extract the last -sou from our soldiers is the same as in the old tourist days. - -_August 6th._ Bright and clear! Oh, what a relief, after a miserable -week of drenching rain, in which all one's clothes are damp and soggy -and the feet are never dry. - -It is rumored--in fact, Major Hansell told me last night--that it is -more than probable that we will ultimately be quartered in barracks at -Chaumont. The high command have motored over there this morning to look -over the ground. - -_August 9th._ Nothing of any particular event. The days have been fine. -We have had our morning classes each day. Some of these classes are -fairly interesting, but the majority are rather dull. Russell and I -left the mess for a few days, but everywhere we went the French made -some attempt to do us. - -Several days ago we had definite orders we were to move to -Chaumont--going into barracks. Chaumont is a town of fifteen thousand -and at least will be more pleasant than this dirty little place. - -After lunch I applied to Major Hansell to be temporarily detailed for -field service. He did not seem adverse to the idea and told me to -bring the matter up later. I certainly want to see active service. This -present situation is not my idea of an able man's job, but something -that can be carried on by "any old person." I should like to get where -there is a little "red blood" and hear the last of the damned old -laundry and ice plant and whether the nurses got in on time or not. - -_August 12th._ Still waiting and doing nothing. Yesterday the men -played the officers at baseball, the latter winning 2-1. It was a -surprisingly good game. In the evening the first real instalment of -letters from home. - -I was officer of the day Friday. On making my ten o'clock rounds found -not a single light in the village streets and only one or two small -groups of people going home. It was a wonderful night, the wind just -whispering gently through the tree tops. I walked a bit in the park. -Nothing but silence. One might have been in a deserted village. On -coming in one could see the gun flashes toward Nancy, but we were too -far away to hear the sound. I stood on the balcony a long time watching -them. It all seemed so strange. All peace and tranquillity here and -forty miles away men struggling and battling for their lives. - -Today No. 6 Field Hospital came over and played our men at baseball. -Score 6-10 in favor of Roosevelt. The special interest of the game, as -far as the French were concerned, was the yelling and shouting of the -enlisted men, who simply outdid themselves playing Indian. - -There is a young fellow, Le Sieur by name, who escaped two weeks ago -from a German prison in Mayence. He and a friend forged passports and -boarded a train for Switzerland. It was their third attempt. The first -two were failures. He is here on a thirty days' leave with his mistress. - -Some officers came over with the baseball team from Gondrecourt. They -are a fine-looking lot of men. They are as disgusted with their lot -as we are with ours. Everything is apparently at sixes and sevens, but -at least they are apparently having much more activity and are able -to move about the country and see things. I am terribly keen to be -transferred into a Field Ambulance. - -The Chaumont question is all up a tree. Apparently the French are not -willing to turn the buildings over to us. At first they say, "Come -on and we will do all in our power," then when you come, the path is -strewn with every kind of petty annoyance. - -I felt very proud of the United States to-day when I saw the -Gondrecourt crowd. They certainly were a bully looking lot. - -_August 14th._ My birthday. Rain. Yesterday we motored over in the -ambulances to Bezoisir where Finney is located with Base 18. He is a -delightful man and I enjoyed a nice little chat with him. He is much -disgruntled, both personally and on the situation as a whole. In the -first place he is at odds with ---- ----, and in the second place, the -whole organization is all at sea. He thinks the Government is sending -over hospitals in greater number than there is any immediate demand -for; that they are furnished with no adequate quarters and given no -work. In the third place, Finney thinks that the whole system is -wrong; that where the best results are to be accomplished is close -to the firing line, where the cases can be seen comparatively early; -that there should be less handling and transportation of the wounded. -The French are already trying to do this by cutting out some of their -clearing hospitals. - -We lunched at Neufchateau, a small town of about, I should say, five -thousand inhabitants, very charmingly situated in the valley with a -small stream--I think the Meuse--running through it. We visited one -very picturesque old church on a high rock. There was some military -activity in the town, as it was on the main line. We also saw some -German prisoners working with an armed guard. - -In the afternoon played some tennis and then we gave the French -officers a return champagne and cake supper. A terrible ordeal. I -struggled with Genevet, who is the best appearing of the lot. He was -sick and hard to talk to, and I simply could not squeeze any French -out. After we got started the men came in and sang. The hotel guests -were tremendously interested in this and crowded into the room to watch -us. The men let it go in good old college fashion, and I am sure they -regarded us as a lot of semi-maniacs, although they all enjoyed it -hugely. - -_August 15th._ Stillman, Russell and James gave me a fine birthday -dinner at the Grand last night. It was mighty nice of them and we -all had a good time. We opened up with sherry and bitters, Burgundy -and two bottles of "fiz" and came home feeling comfortable. Old Mc -was in bed. We pretended we were drunk and he dressed us down. In -spite of the extra liquid, woke up feeling in fine form. Sunshine -with tropical showers, but it is getting colder all the time. Great -excitement to-day; we are going to Gondrecourt to hear a lecture on war -surgery by Major Claude Bernard. We arrived there at three p. m. via -Neufchateau, then about fifteen miles further on to G. A dirty, sloppy -little village simply packed with troops. On the road over, just as we -were coming in, a tropical downpour, which was followed by brilliant -sunshine five minutes later. - -Gondrecourt is simply packed with men, geese and chickens. All seemed -tumbling one over the other. All the officers and men that can be -are billeted on the town, and consequently the little courts have -improvised tables and racks for guns and accouterments. Besides, the -6th Ambulance Company has division hospitals. On the outskirts other -regiments are encamped. We did not go outside the town, so did not see -the latter. - -Claude Bernard spoke in English. He was a clean-cut Frenchman of the -best type, with a sense of humor. He spoke of the best disposition to -make of the wounded. Experience is teaching them over here that the -nearer the front the main hospital is, the greater its efficiency. It -seems ridiculous that our best men should remain in the rear only for -the old cases, while the younger and less experienced should have all -the real work. Our Government is discussing breaking up or reorganizing -our present system, and very logically so. It means three to four -stages for a wounded man, whereas, if he can be received within twelve -hours in a field hospital, there ought to be 80 per cent. better -results. At least, so says Bernard. - -My great fear is that we shall be broken up and that I will be sent -inland to take care of a lot of uninteresting sick. And I want to see -the real thing and not sit back twisting my thumbs. - -On the way back we stopped at Domremy, the town where Jeanne d'Arc was -born, and saw the little church where she made her First Communion. In -a park right across the way is an old house with the upper story done -over, which is supposed to be her home. It is a museum with busts and -pictures of her. I doubt if any of the original house is standing, for -in the wall is a small, worm-eaten bit of timber covered over with -wire netting, which is apparently all that remains of the original -structure. The church is of the simple village type without anything of -special interest, other than its historical association. - -We made rapid time home and got back in time to brush off some dust -before dinner. Peck told me to-night that I would be sent up in advance -to start the mess at Chaumont. This probably means Saturday or Sunday. - -Higgins broke his leg yesterday. Haberman, the man with the -pneumothorax, is no better to-day. They had the priest in yesterday. - -_August 19th._ How can I tell all that has happened in the past three -days? I left Vittel two days ago in the ambulance with four sick men -on stretchers and a nurse. We jogged along through pleasant country, -via Neufchateau to here, where we arrived at about three thirty -p.m.--fifty-three miles or thereabout. The country is charming, but -cold stone barracks like prison cells, a great bare court over which -dust swirls in clouds, covering the clothes, hands and face--in five -minutes boots and gaiters are white--it drifts through into the rooms, -covering beds and furniture and clothes. And then a blazing, dazzling -sun, fairly blinding as it is reflected from the white earth. Only one -little scrap of green can be seen in the whole surroundings, and that -is toward the west. We are in the new Artillery Barracks, which, since -the beginning of the war, have been partially used as a hospital. We -are taking it over in part from the French, with the understanding that -later we will be in whole charge. - -The country itself is beautiful. Situated as we are on the crest of -a hill, by going outside the compound on the east and west is an -extensive view, stretching away for miles over the valley on each side. - -Well, I arrived here and all was chaos. We got some beds up, and I -slept in a large cell alone, without a hook to hang anything on. No -toilet or bathing facilities. Chaumont is two kilometers away, and -if one were marooned on a desert island the isolation could not be -greater. My job is the mess--always the mess. No kitchens except the -general ones. No sinks, but I scratched around. We buy through the -French. The endeavor is to keep down the prices. - -The rest of the crowd turned up late last night, and we pulled off a -good dinner in spite of many difficulties. Our same crowd is together -again. - -Captain Edmond Schwander, formerly an apothecary de premiere classe, -is the Quartermaster in charge of the barracks. He is a real live -proposition, and seems to be a mighty nice fellow. - -Now we have the job of fitting up our rooms for the ordinary -conveniences of life. Also, it is up to me to get maids to take care of -them. - -I took two meals at the French officers' mess. It was most amusing. -A little room over an apothecary shop in town. I cannot describe the -scene, but it was reminiscent of some of the scenes from "Trilby." The -room was plastered in posters--some proper and some more improper--and -the conversation was equally mixed. I was sorry to leave them and come -out here. - -We walk at least two hundred yards for our baths, across the court in -full view of an admiring crowd--and here is when I take my first one. - -_August 20th._ Mess! Mess! Mess! All is mess! New Job! Care of -officer's quarters. Boss of four old ladies, three teeth among -them--one has none--total sum of ages--four hundred years. - -Telegram calling Peck and Russell to French front to observe. In town -with the motor-cycle to do some shopping. Home! The orchestra is -pounding away with a vengeance, surrounded by an admiring crowd of -invalids--some healthy ones. - -Broke the crystal on my nice little watch--otherwise, life a blank. No -sensations except hunger. No emotions except disgust. - -The French officers gave our officers a champagne breakfast at eleven -a.m. this morning from which all returned in genial spirit. Such is -life in Chaumont. - -_August 24th._ Back to barracks after three days' absence. Monday last -they brought in fifteen hundred patients in the twenty-four hours. Jim -Russell and Peck had gone, and finally, in sheer desperation, I got on -one of the ambulances and rode in to town. They were just finishing -unloading and Peightel was talking through an interpreter with the -Medecin Chef in charge of the train. The Medecin was asking him if he -could not make a trip with him and personally see the hospital at the -front. Trinder was standing by and thought it would be a good thing, -but was sure that Hansell could not put it through. I told him I would -go with him. Trinder said, "Go and see what Hansell will say." So back -we rushed. Hansell, like a trump, said "Yes." So back we went over -the bumpy old road, pitch dark, and found some "big gun" Major, who -telephoned to St. Dozier, the military headquarters of the zone of -the interior. Got permission, then walked back, threw a few things in -a valise and carried it between us to Chaumont Station. It was about -eleven o'clock then and everything had pretty well settled down for the -night. We found the Commissaire de Gare was expecting us, and he had -written out for us directions or orders to proceed to St. Dozier and -report to the Commissaire Regulatrice, and she had been informed of -our coming and would tell us what to do. - -After many vicissitudes, as daylight was just breaking, the train -pulled out, and about an hour later when we reached Robert Espagne -the sun was coming up over the hilltop, the little town lay below in -the valley with the mist still hanging over the river. On the right, -explosions were heard, which we later found were from a party of -recruits practising bombing. From the same hill two years ago the 6th -Division of Artillery made a stand and drove back the Germans in their -drive on Bar-le-Duc. If they had cut that line and taken Bar-le-Duc -it would have divided the French Army. This was in the days of the -Marne. The old Guard Communal, whom we met on the road, told us in a -most vivid and simple manner how the Boche shells were pouring over -the woods and how the French stood their ground. Later he went out and -found a German flag. - -Beyond Robert Espagne we were in the zone of the active army--miles -of wagon trains going both ways and smothered in a cloud of dust. -At Rivigny we entered on the military railroad, the regular line to -Verdun having been cut on the Verdun drive. Also a little later we -caught constant glimpses of the Voie Saire on the road that supplied -Verdun after the railroad had been cut. There were still thousands of -motor-trucks going both ways. Now and then soldiers' graves dotted the -fields or lay along the lines of the railroad. The French had a helmet -hanging on the cross, the Boche a little wooden fencing around it, -which will soon break down and mean that many a poor chap will lie in -an unknown grave in foreign soil. At Rivigny, or just beyond, here and -there a half-destroyed village, or perhaps just the church. It seemed -always the church that was marked. - -At Evers the village was practically wiped out. - -Then as we approached Fleury toward sunset the air was alive with -aerial activity. Planes were constantly flying one way or the other. -The French can tell the difference between their machines and the -Boche, by the hum of the motors. And now as far as the eye can reach, -a long line of observation balloons. We could easily see twelve or -fifteen, and as the train pulled in there was a terrific bombing, with -dozens of little balls of white smoke in the clouds and a dozen aeros -circling in that vicinity. The men cried "bloins," which meant that -there was a Boche plane trying to get through. - -The air was dead calm. The cotton balls slowly turned from white -to black and then faded away. Suddenly a burst of flame which shot -precipitately to earth, and murmurs of delight from the officers -standing about. The Boche had been winged and fallen to earth. - -We went through the hospital. I was not much interested. Salle de -Tirage, where the cases were sorted--Salle d'Operation--Salle du -Sterilisation--Salle du Pansement et Tisane. But it was all dealing -with wreckage, and one wanted to go on and up where men were living and -doing. - -As dusk came on, flash, flash, some small, some large. Great blasts -from a Vulcan's furnace that lit the skyline from horizon to horizon, -and through the still night the constant purr drifted back. - -The motors kept pouring back from the front, each with a load; driver -covered with dust, its contents a mass of dust, grimed and plastered -on, often with blood, but the eyes flashed--for they had been _there_. - -Captain Felix Melin was shot through the shoulder circling the right -side of Hill 304. His arm was in a sling, his coat hung about his -shoulders, blood spattered down trousers and over suspenders, but -he was the Real Thing. Several men of his Company file down the -gangway into the train--soldiers of the 9th Company of the 303rd -Regiment--they were his men and he had led them! A handshake and -a pat on the back were waiting for each man. From all the line of -wreckage--tired, weary men--never one word of complaint, but on all -sides friends met, or members of the same command met and compared -experiences. Many were going back for the second, third and fourth -time--all had been out in the heart of things, and were coming back for -repairs to make the trip again. - -Finally we got our load and started back, but just before leaving, -the cry of "Boche Aeroplane" was heard. All lights went out. The -plane passed over us, then we went crawling back with our load. St. -Dozier again, Montdidier, Brienne. There the men were fed meat, -bread, wine and cheese. Piney, Troyes and Mesgrigny, where they were -all discharged. It was with much regret that I saw Melin go, and his -Lieutenant Broule. They were the best. - -Then back to Troyes where we gave Major Costacy and his Adjutant -Aubert a dinner at the hotel, and opened a bottle of "fiz." I -proposed drinking it with dinner, but they seemed horrified with the -idea and said it was for dessert only. So we had white wine first -and then "fiz." They enjoyed it and mellowed out. It improved my -French tremendously, and when we had finished dinner and gone across -the street to the Cafe for coffee, I was talking fluently on war, -petticoats, and soaring prices. However, we all walked out to the -train, two kilos outside the town, singing the "Madelon." We climbed -into our little compartment which seems like home now. - -The Adjutant Aubert--I can't describe him. But to me he was fascinating -and I could not keep my eyes off him. A face like Christ, with a full -beard, even white teeth, a calm, serene face, but with an eye that -flashed hell-fire when he spoke. Ten years in Algeria, through all the -North African campaigns, and covered with a mass of decorations. Cora -seemed the only thing in life he cared for. Cora was a fox-terrier -picked up in the streets of Chaumont and Cora was everything to him. -She followed him everywhere, slept on his bed, and he watched over her -like a baby. - -During the night we pulled into Joinville and then into Chevillon, -where the train pulled into a siding for further orders. We took the -train back to Chaumont and came down through a beautiful valley into -the town, arriving just in time for lunch at the France. Then back to -barracks. Jim and Peck had returned and we exchanged experiences, which -were about the same. - -Trinder and Hansell have gone to Paris for their examinations for -promotion. I spoke to Hansell about being transferred to a regiment, -and he said he would try and arrange it. I want to get into the real -thing and be with real men, and not sitting around here just taking -care of sick people. - -_August 27th._ Life has settled down to the same old routine. A violent -thunder-storm last night, but fine and clear and much cooler to-day. -The weather has been fine now for the past ten days. - -Hansell and Trinder are coming back to-night and we are preparing a -spread for them--cocktails, sweet champagne. I have been tearing all -over town to find some gin, which I finally accomplished at la maison -of M. Henry, who was well stocked with every kind of wine. - -There has been a lot of kick about the food. The men seem to be always -hungry--an enormous breakfast and then howls for more lunch--then tears -when the bill comes. I had a meeting two nights ago and told them they -could have what they wanted, but they would have to pay for it. They -finally voted a French breakfast, which began this morning. I did not -come down till late, but I was told they were a doleful lot. However, -they will get used to it later. Nothing but housekeeping. It takes from -two to three hours to get the work straightened out. - -_August 30th._ The dinner was quite a success. Every one limbered up, -and laughter, loud and plenty, was the order of the night. Since then -nothing worthy of note. - -At last I have an orderly and he is working on my books. And perhaps -life will now be pleasanter. - -_September 3rd._ The golden morning sun came pouring in the window -this morning and Trinder came smashing in the door at six thirty a. m. -demanding the key of the storeroom. - -Yesterday we took a nice walk, climbing the heights on the west bank of -the Marne. - -I went to Colonel Hansell this morning and asked permission to resign -from the job of the mess. He immediately granted my request. To-night -at dinner he made a very pretty little speech, thanking me for my work -under very trying circumstances and calling for three cheers for the -retiring mess officer, which were given with a hearty good will. It was -a most courteous thing, and I was deeply touched. What a relief to -have the thing off my shoulders! - -I walked to town with my wash and felt like a boy out of school. Cave -joined me and we went down to the new headquarters. Everything was -humming with activity. Tents line the road on both sides. Motors and -motorcycles are flying in all directions. Engineers stringing wires -and newly-made majors swaggering about, greatly impressed with their -own importance, all looking very debonair and rather foolish. They -are rather a fine-looking lot on the whole, the Western type easily -predominating. - -We lunched peacefully at the Hotel France. - -Peck told me Bradley had asked for teams to go to the front for a two -weeks' tour of duty and McWilliams had chosen me as a team mate. Hurrah! - -_September 13th._ Haven't written. Little to write about. The evening -of the 10th, Kildare and I walked along the canal to a little town -called Luzy. There we made a find in the form of a nice, good-natured, -well-nourished woman who keeps a little restaurant near the station. -She cooked us a good omelet with potatoes and salad, with plenty of -bread and good butter. Eating it in the court in front of the house, -it was all right, and fired me with a sporting spirit of adventure and -a bit of life in the open away from all this chaos and turmoil. So, on -returning, I proposed to the room that we take a walking trip. Henry -James was the only one who took me up and so the next morning, having -obtained permission, we started with no definite destination other than -to get lunch at Luzy with Madame and then push on to any old place. - -Madame at Luzy told us that Nogent-la-Haute was an interesting old town -about fifteen kilometers away, so we started off with full stomachs -to reach it. We strolled along the canal with its sides lined with -beautiful Lombardy poplars. The afternoon was hot, but, other than an -occasional fisherman who never seemed to catch anything, there were no -signs of life alongside the canal. The Marne babbled over the stones, -here and there turning a water-wheel, and great gray cattle grazed -peacefully in the meadows, and we breathed a deep breath of freedom, -and joy of the open road crept into my bones. It seemed once again -that care and responsibility had rolled away and that I was a boy with -nothing to do but to wander where the spirit willed. - -Then an idea struck us. How nice it would be to board a canal-boat -and just idle along with it. But none came. Then a plan for taking -a train and going to Belfort and from there out to the French, but -at the station the timetable said the last train that day had gone, -and then again the distance was given as one hundred and fifty-four -kilometers, much too far in the short time at our disposal. So finally -it was decided, at Faulein, to take the little narrow-gauge road to -Nogent-la-Haute. So narrow-gauge it was; and it puffed up hill for -twelve kilometers to a snug little village perched on a high rock -surrounded with gardens and the biggest pine-trees I have ever seen. -The tower of an old castle spoke of seigneurial days when "barons held -their sway." - -I looked forward to a nice, quiet, cozy little dinner and a good sleep -and a morning's loaf, strolling about the town to the wonderful view -from the great precipitous height on the west. But nothing of the sort. -As we descended from the train a dozen urchins cried, "Les Americains!" -and in half the time it takes to write it, a dozen more sprang up, -taking up the cry, so that walking along the main street there was a -troop of urchins crowding about us and from the windows heads appeared, -the whole town coming to life. The urchins ran into the hotel and told -Madame "les Americains" were on the threshold. Madame rushed out all -a-flutter and courtesied us in. Mother and sister courtesied. Were we -spending the night? Did we eat? We assured her we ate and were spending -the night. Then, what would we eat and where would we eat it? This -latter point was unfortunately settled by the chief permanent boarder, -acting as a delegate and asking the honor of having us join them. There -was no alternative. We simply had to dine with them, and we marched -bravely in. - -Talk! My God! My God! There was no end to it! Words rolled out -in avalanches. Special brands of red wine were ordered, coffee, -liqueurs--but always talk. Now, if you are not a professor of the -French language and you are tired after a day's tramp, and if it is up -to you to appear half intelligent (for James was lucky enough not to -speak a word of French and so it was up to me), it is exhausting. Those -moments were like sitting on a chair and having hot needles stuck all -over one's body. - -Talk! Talk! The war! Every one had a son or brother, or at least a -brother-in-law, killed or wounded. We were doctors, so a minute account -of their deaths or how they acted after they were wounded. Then what -the war had done to them, and what they had done to the war. Then -politics. What America would do. How independent the Americans were. -They smoked cigarettes with their meals. They only smoked them half -through, etc., etc., etc. - -It seems we were the first Americans since one Gillette, of -safety-razor fame, had established a factory there some twelve years -ago. Gillette! Gillette! We heard all about razors till I wished -Gillette shaved into fragments. We must see the factory in the morning. -We must visit Collin's surgical instrument emporium. - -At seven thirty in the morning they were on the job, but we stayed in -our room and watched the market going on in the public square. - -_September 14th._ A fine driving rain and a beautiful cold in the head, -and all the rooms have a dampness that drives to the bone. Finished my -twenty-four hours as O. D. at nine this morning--nothing happened. - -_September 16th._ Time drags interminably. It is a glorious day, but -absolutely nothing to do, either in the way of play or work. I feel as -if my brain were jellifying, or that if something did not happen I must -simply run away. Army life! It squeezes every inch of individuality -out of a man. Its rules are those of the Medes and Persians, and no -blue-black Presbyterian could be more strict in their observance. In -the fighting line it is all right, but in the "administering angel" job -it is Hell. - -The men are playing baseball and the Frenchmen Rugby football. James, -Cave and myself lunched at the France, but it was deadly. The streets -contain only old women with few teeth and look bedraggled out of all -proportion. - -_September 20th._ Tuesday night Kilbane and I dined at the Signal Corps -quarters. They are in the Chateau of Chaumont, down under the hill. -It is a wonderful little place, resplendent with a hundred memories, -for the place was built by Louis XV for a hunting lodge, and, to all -appearances, remains unchanged to-day. It is built on a court, only two -stories high, and much of the old fittings still remain. The garden -is overgrown with weeds and the flowers are sadly neglected, but in -spite of everything one's imagination harks back to former times, for -the atmosphere is all there. As we were shown around by Major Dodd it -seemed almost sacrilegious to turn it over to the unappreciative hands -of officers. - -Colonel Churchill was the Commanding Officer. He impressed me very much -as a gentleman and a personality of much charm. - -_September 24th._ Two glorious autumn days with wonderful sunrises and -sunsets. Only small bunches of clouds are appearing, which in all -probability means trouble for tomorrow. - -Everybody is getting very restless and unless something happens to -break the calm tranquillity of the daily routine, something is going to -blow up. Saturday the officers played the Johns Hopkins unit at Bazoirs -and, although they were beaten, they came back full of enthusiasm over -the good times they had and the hospitality shown them. - -Last night a telegram saying, "War Department offers you commission -gastro-enterologist, rank Captain, base hospital here. Only thirty-two -appointments. Will you accept if transfer possible. Cable immediately." -I answered, "Prefer France." - -I do not want to leave now because, in spite of the awful waste in time -and money, the game is just beginning, and I want to see it through. - -There is a rumor that Brewer will be here for lunch. I hope so, as it -means a little news of what is going on around us. Steiner and I are -planning to go to Troyes for Saturday night for a bit of a change. - -_September 25th._ Brewer arrived about noon and after lunch recounted -his adventures at the front. They were exciting and they all had narrow -squeaks. He was on the British lines East of Ypres and while he was -there the Evacuation Hospital was bombed three times. - -Darrach was asked to join in a poker game one night. He said he was -tired and did not want to play as he had been operating all day, -but they kept urging him and as he was ahead of the game he finally -consented. They had not been playing fifteen minutes when there was a -terrific crash. Darrach went out to see what had happened and found -a bomb had fallen squarely on his tent. Nothing remained but a few -fragments of his overcoat; there was a hole six feet deep and about ten -feet in diameter. - -A few moments later, when Brewer was in bed, a second crash followed by -a shower of fragments. He rushed out and was told some of his nurses -were hurt. A bomb had fallen right in front of the kitchen, blowing it -to splinters. A fragment had struck Miss McDonald, his former operating -nurse, just below the right eye, and fragments of shell wounded two -others. There were seventy people wounded that night. - -He then went on to recount many little instances of life in an -Evacuation Hospital. How the officers finally dug themselves in. They -did not like to do it at first, as they were all new at the game and -no one wanted to show that he was nervous. They heard Boche avions -passing overhead frequently, and at those times they would climb -in the dugouts. O---- had a narrow escape. They heard bombs in the -neighborhood. He rushed in his tent for his helmet. His servant was -there and as soon as they found it they both rushed out. As they ran -along, the servant about twenty feet in advance, crash--and the servant -was wafted off the face of the earth. - -All day and all night shells were passing over them. Also he told us an -authentic story of one of his patients who was wounded in a charge, the -wound proving to be a compound fracture of the thigh. He crawled into -a shell-hole where he met another man with a compound fracture of the -arm. They remained there using their rations and water. Then the man -with the arm crawled out and brought in food and water from the dead -that were lying about them. And so they existed until the forty-ninth -day. On that night the arm man failed to return and was never seen -again. So the leg man waited two more days, catching some water in -his helmet, and then realized he must get out or starve. So starting -in the direction in which he knew the British lines to be, he crawled -across no-man's-land when, to his surprise, he came up to a trench and -found it filled with Germans. He then realized that this trench had -been built while he was lying out there and to get home he must cross -it. So he waited for a time, until a moment when there were no Germans -near him, and jumped it landing on his good leg. Crawling further he -at last arrived in front of his own trench where he was seen and a big -fusillade opened. He escaped this and finally by yelling in English -they realized it was one of their own men and he was taken in. This was -after fifty days. Brewer states the story has been corroborated in all -details and is true. - -Stillman has sent McWilliams a letter in which he says there are -altogether too many shells flying around and very little to do. - -I am looking forward to the day when we will get up there and see some -of these things for ourselves. - -Later the order came. It reads that we report in Paris at nine a. m., -Saturday, September 29th, report to the 2nd Army, British Expeditionary -Force for a period of fourteen days. - -_September 27th._ _Paris._ McWilliams and I came on last night, -leaving Chaumont at five thirty reaching here ten p. m. The city was -better illuminated than the last time I was here. We are stopping at -the Continental Hotel--not as nice as the Ritz and more expensive. The -breakfast room here this morning was filled with ambulance drivers, -doctors and nurses. - -Called on Henry Clews and Lillie Havemeyer. Both out. - -Paris to-day looked actually down at the heel. - -_September 28th._ The following medical clinics are held at Paris: -Heart Diseases--Hop. St. Antoine Vacquez; General Medicine--Hop. Cochin -Vidal; General Medicine--Hop. Cochin Chauffard. - -Lunch with Lillie Havemeyer. Called on Dorziat and met General Brook, -who is a son of Lord Warwick. D. asked him to give me letters to some -of the officers with the Second Army Corps, which he has promised to -do. - -Last night was a real party. McW. and I started out for dinner, met two -British officers at Henry's bar. We had a few, and then went around -to Geney's for dinner. It was fine. We all sat down in a little room. -Dinner was served at seven thirty to all. There were several very nice -girls in the party and we had a very jolly evening. - -Dined with Henry Clews to-night. - -_September 29th._ Reported at nine a. m. at Medical Headquarters, 10 -Rue Ste. Anne, and there got our orders. We leave at one fifteen for -Amiens. Spend the night there. The following morning proceed to Albert, -arriving at six fifty-five a. m. There report to the Liaison Officer at -Headquarters, 2nd British Army, and then to Director of Medical Service -at the same place. A pass has been issued to us and so we are all ready -for whatever comes. - -Saw Pool and Colonel Winter, who was very cordial. Now to pack and -lunch. - -We packed up, caught one fifteen train, and a few minutes before six p. -m. pulled into Amiens.--On July 30th, 1914, Helen and I spent the night -here and met Sir Seymour King in the Hotel Rhin. How well he conceived -the magnitude of the whole thing. That evening after dinner he said, -"This will be a veritable Armageddon, in which you will be eventually -involved." And here we are now after three years and two months. - -McWilliams and I dined at the Hotel Rhin and sat in the garden. How -memories come back. The dinner was poor and the price high. - -Just before dinner we visited the Cathedral. The carving on the outside -and inside is piled high with sandbags and was invisible. There were -absolutely no lights in Amiens and the streets were simply crowded with -Tommies. We managed to get a nasty room in the Belford near the station. - -_September 30th._ We were called at four forty-five a. m. after a -horrible night of little sleep from screeching railroad whistles, and -in the dark hurriedly shaved and dressed. The porter brought a cup -of coffee and slice of bread, for which they had the nerve to charge -two francs. Then carrying our own bags we started for the station. In -spite of the early hour the place was crowded, both with military and -civilians. It was pitch black, but the train was found and we all piled -in and started for Albert. As day dawned a thick mist prevented any -range of vision, but just before reaching Albert it began to lift and -ruins of villages, or villages partly in ruins, could be seen. Then the -train pulled in. - -The station was full of shell-holes, in fact, half demolished--but we -stored our baggage in a shed and started down the street to find the -Liaison Officer. But the city was in ruins. The walls were pockmarked -by machine-gun fire and only about one in ten habitable. And then as -we turned a street corner we saw the Cathedral, or rather the shell of -what it once was. From the top of the shell-shattered tower the Virgin -and Child were suspended at right angles, the Child extending far out. -As the mist lifted the sun struck the gilding. It was like a miracle -and one fairly gasped. We were all much impressed and somewhat awed, -for there was silence for some minutes afterward. - -The Cathedral was totally destroyed, only the four walls and tower -standing, and large holes through all the walls. For blocks around -there, no houses were left standing and only a block of stone and a -few piles which marked doorstep and entrance hall. Some houses had no -roofs and some roofs had no house, but remained suspended when all -the remaining structure had gone. It was like wandering through some -recently excavated city. - -At Albert one first comes in contact with English efficiency and -there is only one word to express it, and that is "Marvelous." The -gaping windows and doorways of shattered houses are wired across to -keep out marauders. The streets are fairly polished, signs posted -in English--regarding roads, officers' quarters and different staff -traffic guards, but above all, one is amazed at the wonderful neatness -and order. - -After wandering about for about an hour we finally found the S.F.C., -Rest House and Mess-Room. The roof was gone and the whole top story, -but that was boarded up and a little mess-room made, and around the -garden, which had been cleaned up, were rooms for stray officers. We -got the first good breakfast there I have had since leaving home. The -touch of England was everywhere. A Sergeant received you and gave you a -check in the hall. There is a parlor and reading-room, etc. Certainly -they know how to do things. But writing this twenty-four hours later, -what we admired then we marveled at now. For that same hand of quiet -efficiency is everywhere. No wonder they are the most wonderful -colonizers of the world. But more of this later. - -There was no Liaison Officer, so we went to Medical Headquarters -(D.D.M.S.), and speaking about D.D.M.S., one needs a dictionary to -understand these initials. Everything is initialed. I am struggling to -get on to them, but it is very confusing to a beginner. - -From D.D.M.S. we were sent forward in two ambulances, one for baggage -and one for ourselves. We left Albert on the Bapaume Road, and now -all power of description fails. One looks with mixed awe, wonder and -admiration. - -The battlefield begins on all sides. As far as the eye can see are -trenches, shell-holes and graves. The country is one vast barren -stretch. Scarcely a tree remains. Not a habitation is left standing. -Barbed-wire entanglements run across the country for miles. - -On all sides English soldiers are working, cleaning and salvaging the -French lumber and wrecked building material and remaking the roads. The -sites of previous hamlets are marked by a sign in many places, and by -signs and bricks and a few remnants of walls. In other places literally -not a fragment remains of what once was a little French village. - -Words can never paint a picture of what unfolds before the eye. You -feel that at the top of the near crest this desolation must end and -life begin again, but it goes on and on, mile after mile, a dreary -waste of torn-up ground and blighted tree stumps. - -And the English. No words can tell of their wonderful efficiency and -sanitation. Water-tanks, horse troughs, latrines, water for washing, -water-tanks where canteens may be filled, manure dumps where all manure -is collected and covered with earth to keep flies away. It all speaks -for wonderful order and efficiency. - -At crossroads a traffic man stands to regulate vehicles. - -Crosses of white, crosses with the tricolor of France, and black -crosses, mark the graves of English, French and German, respectively. -Here and there little cemeteries of white crosses are scattered through -the fields where they have been able to collect their dead. - -Fifteen kilometers to Bapaume, which is a mass of wreckage, and on to -Battencourt. Here we met Colonel Westcott, who looked us over, and -then shipped us to the 2/1 Field Ambulance of the 62nd Battalion at -Fevreuil. We get out here, our baggage is unloaded and we enter our -shelter. Now a shelter is a round piece of corrugated iron with a -wooden floor and serves for winter quarters. - -_October 1st._ I sha'n't attempt to describe a Field Ambulance -personnel. Everyone has explained it to me and that is sufficient, -because I didn't understand it and probably never shall. Only, it is in -three sections and each section is in three parts, so we are part one -of second section. Thus 2/1. - -We are comfortably quartered and the men are all nice fellows. The -colonel is on leave and Captain Pope is in command. The officers are -all fed up on the war as they have been at it since the start and have -all seen trench service. - -All morning we rode around with the Sanitary Officer inspecting camps -and sanitation in general. The English make a separate sanitary service -under trained sanitary men and not doctors. In the course of the -morning we met Major English, a charming fellow, not over thirty, who -took us over his battalion of Lewis guns. They had just come back the -night before, but quiet, order and cleanliness reigned everywhere. -Truly a remarkable people. - -In the afternoon we motored over to Peronne with the same Sanitary -Lieutenant (Hafflin), and again a vast track of devastation as far -as the eye could reach in all directions--trenches, barbed wire and -graves. Literally, not a habitable house left standing. Peronne has -a school of sanitation where the men are detailed for two or three -days for instruction in general camp sanitation. It is a remarkable -institution. Every bit of waste material is utilized. Petrol cans make -wonderful stoves. Boxes are sawed up into latrine covers, wash benches, -meat-safes. Tin cans are cut up and reshaped into many utensils. Hinges -are improvised from bits of leather, pieces of tin and wire. It has all -been carefully worked out and nothing left to chance. Then again all -wagons, bits of equipment, harness, etc., are groomed with just as much -care and attention as they would be at home. Autos are washed, shined -and polished. It is all simply a marvel. - -Peronne is a mass of wreckage like everything else. Evidently a once -charming little Cathedral lies in a mass of wreckage, and on the -doors of the Hotel de Ville is scribbled in chalk "Eintritt fur 40 -Sanitatespersonnel." The destitution of the Cathedral is so complete -that it must have been blown up. - -_October 3rd._ Yesterday morning about nine o'clock we started -for Ecoust-Longatte, going out in the motor ambulance about four -kilometers. We were fitted out with steel helmets and two gas-masks, -the second as an emergency in case anything happens to the first. -After going about two kilometers there is a sign "No traffic beyond -this point." Here the steel helmet is adjusted and the gas-mask drawn -up in front, the bag opened and everything made ready for immediate -adjustment. Then over about a two-kilometer stretch of road in full -view of Fritz and under the range of his guns. The road is lined with -small dugouts. Here and there empty shells are hung, to be rung in case -of a gas attack. The condition of the wind is noted on boards as "Wind -dangerous" or "Wind safe" depending upon the point of the compass from -which it blows. - -We crossed the two kilometers on the crest of the ridge. On all sides -not a sign of life. This absence of all visual signs of life is almost -appalling, for on all sides as far as the eye can reach not a cat is -seen. Yet there is the creepy feeling that some one is always watching -you. - -At Ecoust is A. D. S. (Advance Dressing Station) in the cellar of a -ruined brewery. The men sleep, eat and live at least twelve feet below -the ground. At the doors are two sets of curtains soaked in a solution -of hexamine to be lowered on the sounding of the gas alarm, also with -apparatus standing near to keep them sprayed with the same solution. -After speaking with the officer in charge we set out on foot through -Longatte, which is a small suburb of Ecoust. Here the road for a -strip of two hundred yards is in view of Fritz and it is camouflaged -with wire netting to which small particles of green cloth are tied. -We passed two enormous mine pits in the center of the road which the -Germans blew up on their retreat to the Hindenburg Line. Bullecourt -could be seen about three miles in front of us. All that remains now -is a pile of white rubbish. The English line runs up to the suburbs of -this town. - -Now, at this point we took to the communication trench. It is called -Bullecourt Avenue, and we followed it for about three miles. It is -just wide enough to walk in and the floor is covered with duck boards. -And now shells begin screaming overhead. The first desire was to duck, -but it is surprising how soon one grows accustomed to the sound. In a -quarter of an hour we paid but little heed to them. Occasionally we -passed little groups of men working their way back, when one or the -other of us had to stand and flatten ourselves against the side and -squeeze past. Twice we met groups of officers on inspection. One was -General Lord Harnbleu. In about twenty or thirty minutes we came to a -trench running at right angles. This was Railway Avenue, paralleling -the railway embankment. In front of this were only outpost points, so -we were practically in the front trench and about fifty yards from the -Boche at places. - -The most surprising thing was the few men that one saw. At intervals -of about one hundred feet were sentries while scattered along in little -bunches of two or three were men eating or sleeping. Every here and -there gun points or men stationed with Lewis guns or Victor automatic. - -The sunshine was warm and pleasant, so we stood around, chatted, looked -at the maps and looked at the German positions through the periscope. A -wonderful thing, because it was absolutely similar to peeking through a -hole in the embankment. Not a sign of life from the Boche, except the -constant whiz of shells both coming and going, but they all appeared -to be dropping on our left. Every little distance were deep dugouts, -twenty-five to thirty feet under ground and well timbered. On this -line were two Regimental Dressing Stations. It was like living in a -mine shaft. There were quarters for officers, officers' mess. The men -cook their own food and get good hot stuff. What cannot be cooked is -brought up in large cans built on the principle of thermos bottles. - -From Railway trench into Tower trench, where we inspected another R. -D. S., and then back to the railway embankment. From one line of this -trench where the ground sinks there is an open road leading back to -Ecoust. Captain Pope said that Fritz seldom troubled small numbers -of men walking back and that this road was frequently used by the -stretcher-bearers. So we started back over it and after about one -hundred yards one could turn and look full into the German trench with -its wire entanglement in front of it. Standing there I fully expected -to be fired at, but nothing happened, although our shells were breaking -on his parapets not four hundred yards to the left, throwing up big -columns of dirt. So we spread out and started along the two-mile -stretch. - -The whole ground was pocked with shell-holes, a fallen aeroplane was -lying there, a dead horse, but all the bodies had been apparently -gathered in as I saw none. All the time shells kept screaming overhead. -Some English battery would fire a salvo, and then Fritz would reply, -trying to find out where our guns were. - -We finally reached the A. D. S., had lunch at three thirty, and then -climbed out on an old crumbling wall and watched one of our batteries -shell Fritz's trench. It was a fascinating sight to see the shells -throw clouds of earth in the air. I walked home with the Padre, Michael -Moran, an R. C., a bully fellow. On our left was Vaux. Like all the -rest it was a heap of rubble. Below was Beaumont Hamil. All this -country was the scene of the wildest, bloodiest fighting of the war. - -Below I note some of the Boche's tricks and his ways as given by the -British Padre, Reverend Michael Moran of West Riding Field Ambulance: - -Dugout Traps-- - -Branch in front of dugout connected with mines. - -Spade wired to mine. - -Pictures, vases, helmets, fountain pens, books on tables, nails in -wall, loose boards in floor, things on verge of falling, and piano -connected with wires; clocks connected with mines, bells connected with -mines timed to go off by a rod in acid. - -Mining of churches and other buildings which have not been touched. -This was pulled off at Bapaume where sacristy was left untouched. -When French Mission collected vestments, bombs had been connected and -exploded, killing eleven. - -Bombs up chimney with fire all ready to light. - -Slip trench with false bottom letting men through on spikes. - -Church furniture used to make crosses for German men. - -Poisoning wells and roots of young trees. Some trees left sawn halfway -in. - -Poisoned wine bottles, one out of several poisoned. - -Left perfect latrines. First time chain pulled, exploded. - -Tank traps, making hole before the tank. The crater is also mined. - -Party of Boche went around with English motor-car inspecting dumps. -Spoke English perfectly. Few days later dumps blown up. Boche also use -English aeroplanes. - -Not safe to walk over grass or earthy grass as bombs are strewn -everywhere. - -Bombs in potato-mashers. - -Boche military police on duty for five weeks in English front. - -Smoke bombs to blind tanks. Barrage of gas shells before our batteries, -so gunners have to work twelve to fifteen hours in gas-masks. - -Town hall at Bapaume blown up three days after occupation by British -troops, due to acid bombs. - -Umbrella left in stand attached to a mine. - -Gas clouds sent every ten yards apart in bunches of three (three each -ten yards). - -German deserter's family at home deprived of rations and separation -allowance. - -Boche found carrying machine-guns on stretchers to lines. - -_October 4th._ The above facts were given by the Padre last night from -notes he had made. He has been in the thick of the fighting and has -gone right along with his men all the time. - -Yesterday morning rode around with Lawson (Quartermaster) visiting the -Ordnance and Army Service Corps (Captain Bateson) dumps. Then to the -water head where the water is supplied to this section. Lunch, and -after that the Padre, McWilliams and I started out in the ambulance -for Vaux--a mass of wreckage. The Padre took us in a garden of a -once-chateau. The grounds were overgrown with weeds, but flowers still -struggled out of their old beds. The chateau was a pile of bricks, -beautiful trees were half cut through and left to die. Nothing but two -gateposts and a small segment of the outbuildings were left standing. -Such wanton destruction is simply appalling to see. About one hundred -and fifty shells were dropped on Vaux last night and from the edge of -the town one is fairly in sight of the German lines. The Padre lived in -the garden during the bombardment, and we saw the dugout that he and -his servant had built. - -From there we walked down the Mareuil Road, no vehicle or horses are -allowed to show themselves on the northern end of the town beyond the -cross-road, as the Mareuil Road is in clear view of the enemy. Gun -batteries were placed every here and there, carefully camouflaged, as -is everything. Two dummy guns stuck out in one place. The gunners live -along the roadside in small shelters with sandbag roofs. In the hollow -were two six-inch guns, which were firing a salvo of one hundred rounds -each at a section of Boche trench which was pushed too near to ours. -The target was 7,500 yards away over the crest of a hill. They fired -at intervals of about two minutes, first one and then the other. The -crash was tremendous. After watching them working for a while till my -ears rang, returned to Vaux and then took the ambulance to the A. D. -S. on Mareuil sector. This was well fitted up. In the past twenty-four -hours under cover of the haze they had run a narrow-gauge track up to -it. - -Back at five p. m. for tea and then to the Bow Bells. This is a -Divisional theatrical troupe, or, as it is officially known, a -Divisional Concert Party, of 56th Division. It was wonderfully -dramatic, as it was held in a partially demolished barn. They gave -a capital show. Good voices. Two of the men were superb in their -impersonation of women's parts. The show begins at six p. m. and was -simply crowded. Tickets have to be booked up days in advance. We groped -our way home as no searchlights can be shown on cars and had dinner at -a little after eight. On the way back Very lights were constantly going -up from the lines. Think of a first-class performance in a battered -village, three miles away from a world war, and you can in fact surmise -some of the sensations one has in watching it in a battered barn filled -with nearly a thousand men and officers. And they appreciated it like -children. - -In the evening Padre, Mackenzie and Lawson told stories until one -thirty a. m. A bully day-- - -Our 'phone call is "Pork." - -_October 5th._ Yesterday was comparatively quiet. It blew a hurricane -and in the afternoon rained hard. So we loafed about, gossiped, called -on some other messes, and in the evening dined with Captain Welsh 2/6 -West Yorks. He gave us a bully dinner, and several young officers were -there--Captains Humphrey and Baker--they did not look twenty. Humphrey, -Welsh said, had a wonderful record for bravery. He had already been -decorated. - -There has been a terrific barrage on since eleven a. m. We could hear -the roar all through dinner, and constantly Very lights were being -put up. The night was pitch black and we lost our way in the mud and -darkness in trying to get to the 2/6. - -This afternoon we went out with the Padre to A. D. S. at Eauze. We were -going out on the railway embankment toward St. Leger when they began a -pretty stiff bombardment (the English). Shells were hurled over from -all directions and the air fairly hummed. It stopped our trip and we -watched behind an old piece of wall the shells breaking on Bull-dog -Trench, the German front lines. Some were big 5.9's and they threw up a -perfectly enormous cloud of earth. - -We had tea in the A. D. S. with House and Blackburn. It is their casual -conversation that gives one the real sidelights on the situation. Fox, -an Engineer, was standing a bit down the road when a shell broke near -him. He came sauntering in as if it had been a rose-fall. When things -quieted down we walked down the road and joined some of the Engineers -for a bit of gossip. Then home in the ambulance. - -Took a short walk into a small German cemetery. Boche when he retreated -scratched off the number of the unit on every cross. - -_October 6th._ Rain. Nothing doing. Bitterly cold. - -_October 7th._ Bitter cold. Had ten blankets and still shivered. Went -to service this morning. It was one of the most impressive sights I -have ever seen. The Divisional Yorkshire Band. Most of the men were -going up the line and were in heavy marching order. It made shivers up -and down one's spine. - -We move to 45 C. C. S. this afternoon. Shall be sorry to go. - -_October 9th._ We moved to C. C. S. in a pouring rain and came into a -wallowing mud hole after dark. We got a real British reception and -were shown into a tent that contained nothing. "Have you a servant?" -was the first question. "We have not," was the answer. So they detailed -us the camp idiot. Mud, rain and a howling gale, and British stoicism. -They are not a bit like the nice bunch we left. - -There is nothing doing here but some trench fever cases (P. N. O.). -There is absolutely nothing to do or see, so we hang around in the wet -and cold and shiver. - -I am anxious to hear what became of the little Padre, because some of -the men were "going over the top" Sunday night, and he was going with -them. If it does not rain this afternoon, McW. and I will try and find -our way back there on foot for tea, as Colonel Lister said he would -send us back in the bus if we did. - -I shall be glad to be back at Chaumont again. - -_October 11th._ We are still at Casualty Clearing Station 45, and a -dreary hole it is. We tried to get away, but the D. D. M. S. would not -hear of it, so we must stay our week out. - -I am officer of the day to-day and am actually running H. M. C. C. S. -45, having inspected, etc., a detail of H. M.'s forces this morning. - -Tuesday we went to Greyvillers and saw C. C. S. 3. They seemed much -more alive there. And yesterday we were shown over C. C. S. 49, our -neighbor. - -It has rained the greater part of the time, with patches of sunshine -here and there for short intervals. - -Last night we went to Behagnes to see the Pelicans' show. It was -wonderfully good, but not as interesting or amusing as Bow Bells at -the 56th Division. The Pelicans are the 62nd Division. We dined at the -Officers' Club there. There were somewhere between one hundred and -one hundred and fifty officers there, many fresh from the trenches. -They walked in--and drove in. There was a large well-patronized bar, -papers, and everything well appointed. At eight we went in to dinner, -and a very good one only not sufficient. Met Crab there and several -other officers I had met at the 2/1 West Riding. They were all most -agreeable. The Pelicans began at nine. We walked almost all the way -out and it was quite wonderful, as the battle-front was illuminated by -constant gun-fire and Very lights. It is hard to imagine that one is -only three or four miles away from it all. - -During the performance last night the gun-fire was constant, and a -battery somewhere behind our tent has kept going constantly now since -four p. m. yesterday. - -My duties as officer of the day are to inspect the camp detail, -outgoing men, censor letters, inspect kitchens, latrines, etc. Also, -I am in charge of Ward D. We shall leave Saturday morning at seven -forty-five. The British Army is all right, but this lot of men are -dead. I have yet failed to meet a British medical officer with any -range of vision. They are provincial to the last degree and thoroughly -self-satisfied. Those who have seen more of their work than I have -say that as a rule it is poor, but their cleanliness and general camp -sanitation is beyond criticism. - -This C. C. S. is 3rd Army, 6th Corps. The C. C. S. are attached to the -Army. The Commander is F. G. Fitzgerald. He just returned from leave -early this morning. - -_October 16th._ We left the C. C. S. Saturday morning after rather a -dreary week, as it was bitterly cold and raining every day. - -The train from Achet-le-Grand was crowded. We met Pool and his crowd, -stopped over at Amiens for lunch, paying a second visit to the -Cathedral. Then down to Paris, arriving at the Hotel Continental about -five p. m. I dined alone at the Cafe de Paris, and then back to bed. - -Sunday was beautiful, cool and clear, and a walk up to the Arc in the -morning was delightful. On the way down saw Dorziat for a half hour. -She was still in bed, although she said she was rehearsing daily. - -Called on H. C. and L. Havemeyer, but they were both out, and so ended -the day. - -Monday we started out for Chaumont, and so reached the old barracks -again. Everything just as we left it. Drew 226 francs travel allowance -this morning. To-morrow I am to take over three wards at Piercy. - -_October 21st._ A truly interesting day. Saturday we heard that four -Zeppelins had been brought down, one near here. So this morning -the Colonel sent down to Headquarters and found that one was near -Bourbonne-les-Bains.--H. James, Schwander, Russell, Colonel and I went -down in the Marmon car. It was a beautiful ride. We came on the Zep. -about one mile outside Bourbonne. It had come down across a little -ravine, the nose almost resting on the road. It was almost intact, the -forward car only having been smashed. Some of the gas-bags and the -rear end of the body seemed to be cracked. - -It was simply a marvelous bit of construction, and appeared like a -whale thrown up on land. Two hundred meters long and a wonderful frame -built of aluminum. The bombs had all been dropped. It was built like -a watch. I climbed into the forward car. The motor appeared intact -and the gauges and levers were all there just as they had been left. -It was all very wonderful. They had apparently lost their way and had -to come down on account of lack of petrol. The crew were all taken -prisoners. They tried to fire the machine, but were discovered in time -and prevented. - -We drove on after that to Bourbonne for lunch. The place was packed -with French and Americans. Every one seemed to have come out to see the -sight. Going in we saw the two officers dressed in suits of leather. -One turned and smiled at us as we passed. Schwander got permission for -us to talk to the prisoners, but they had all departed for Dijon when -we had finished lunch. - -On the way back we stopped and saw where the second had caught in the -tree tops. The forward car had been broken off by the contact and -fourteen men taken prisoners, but the remaining four got the Zep. going -again, and went along--to be captured later. The men captured first -burned the basket, but as we passed there was still a lot of wreckage -sticking in the trees. - -Every one was hunting for souvenirs, and they pocketed bits of the -linen envelope and particles of fused metal, perfectly worthless -objects. The Sergeant who captured the first lot of Boches told us that -one of the officers had a bottle of poison that he was going to drink -if caught. But on second thoughts he presented it to the Medecin Chef, -saying he knew the French wine was good as he had lived two years in -Paris working in a motor factory. - -Altogether we had a most delightful and interesting day's outing. - -On the way back we passed nearly a hundred motors with officers and -men. The road was filled with peasants going on foot, bicycle, or in -their crazy little carts packed in so thick that the poor horse could -scarcely drag them. The excitement all through the countryside was -intense. - -_October 28th._ Nothing of any particular interest during the past -week. Have charge of 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 wards, besides two -Sergeants' rooms. - -To-day Floyd leaves for a tour of inspection of camp sites, and I have -charge of the building. - -_October 30th._ One of the girls from Vittel honored me by a visit, -and while we were dining the military police rushed in and said there -was an impending air raid and that all men were ordered to quarters. I -thought I heard the hum of motors but was not sure. - -We are trying to collect a "fee allowance" for fees given on the -"Lapland" and "Grand Tulley Castle." This is at B's instigation, as he -was much piqued that I collected 26 francs more than he did in travel -allowance on our trip to the British front. - -Two letters from America arrived to-day, one posted July 26th, the -other August 6th. Some going! - -It has poured rain steadily for two days now, and everything is wet and -muddy. - -Miss Sheriff has gotten the officers' lounge almost ready for occupancy. - -_November 1st. All Saints' Day!_ And a wonderful clear day, not a cloud -in the sky and scarcely a breath of wind to scatter the falling leaves. -There was real joy in the air and everyone showed it. - -In the morning Miss A. came. Miss A. is one of the Red Cross and is -rummaging around, God knows why, because she cannot speak French, nor -does she know anything of hospitals. I showed her through my wards, -but it was all Greek to her. - -In the afternoon I started out on my bicycle. Rode to Noisy-sur-Seize -and then crossed the hills to Luzy. It was just sunset as I went over -the divide, and no one can describe the peaceful beauty of it all. -The church bells were tolling the Angelus, the long Angelus for the -repose of souls. Smoke curled up in thin, blue columns from the little -houses below in the valley, and the slanting rays of the sinking sun -lit up woods and meadows with a wonderful golden glow. It lasted for -a few minutes and slowly died out, and always the bells, ringing out -the fading day. I sat on the crest of the hill and watched the last -shadows, and then went on down into Luzy in the gray twilight, and so -on home. - -The Padre (Burnett) was in the room, and a hot discussion was in -progress on the All Hallowe'en dance, which was given for all enlisted -men, nurses and officers. - -_November 4th._ I am now senior medical officer, Floyd having been -called away to organize some hospital. - -Major Lewis shot himself last night (suicide) down in the pretty little -chateau at Chamaronde. Alfred Stillman was called down. He found him -lying with the automatic revolver in his hand. - -Peck and Cave have returned from the French front where they were -working for five weeks. They are full of it, saying they were treated -royally. - -_November 8th._ The same old story.--Last night dined with Kilbane at -Luzy. Rain and general slow times. - -_November 12th._ The times are absolutely uneventful, and the life is -monastic. Am taking over an American ward to-day. The Medical Chief -told me I was holding too many patients and I must discharge them. It -seems pretty rough, as there is hardly one that is fit to return to -duty in the strict sense, but he says France lacks man power and that -is their sacrifice. Their food in hospital is inadequate and miserably -prepared. It seems a poor economy, because if they were well cared for -they would be able so much sooner to return to duty. This is the first -day the sun has shone. - -_November 24th._ We received over two hundred Americans and three -hundred and twenty odd French in the past forty-eight hours. The work -has been very severe--practically only Henry James and myself to do -it, as Martin and Peightel were both sent on other details. The C. O. -knew they were coming, but we had no official notification. Everything -was pandemonium, and still is. I made nearly seventy-five physical -examinations per day, besides having the general directions. It was -pretty strenuous and I don't think it is over yet. - -Have been talking with Colonel Mitchell to-night. He is the head of -the U. S. Aviation--a bright, able man. He says Germany has won the -war from the military standpoint. The French man power is gone; Great -Britain has made too many blunders--and now the Italian business, which -was rather expected. It all certainly looks pretty dreary to me. - -_November 28th._ Sergeant Hartman died of pneumonia and was buried -to-day. A full military funeral with the 101st Engineers Band. He is -the first one of us. It was very solemn and impressive. The Padre read -the service in Pavillion Raymond, and then his body was put on the -ambulance and we started for the cemetery, the band leading, then the -hearse, the body draped in the American flag and covered with flowers. -Twelve of the officers followed, Peck, Jim, Reed and self walking in -the first column of fours, the men followed, about sixty of them, and -then an ambulance with the nurses. We went down to the cemetery where -at least two hundred French were gathered. We stood at attention while -"Taps" were sounded, and then we turned and walked away, leaving him -alone in France, looking over the valley. He had done his bit and done -it well. - -The corner of the little French cemetery is beginning to fill. - -_November 29th. Thanksgiving Day._ From early morn every one has been -smacking his lips and thinking and talking and dreaming of food. We got -ours at one thirty. Of course, they had to ask in some of the 101st -Engineers, and they have been hanging around our rooms all afternoon -waiting for the dance. The dance is yet to come, but all is enthusiasm. -The 101st Band played in the compound in the afternoon. At present -there is a great hustle and bustle, hammering and knocking around in -general. - -My little sergeant leaves me to-night. A dapper little gentleman. I got -him in the dining-room and stuffed him full of turkey, red wine and -mince pie. He is a finely made fellow. In twenty days he returns to -the front. Ganthor is his name. - -My new uniform has come home after a three months' struggle to get it, -and, of course, it does not fit. - -Now for the dance! - -_December 9th._ Thanksgiving has come and gone. The dance was generally -reckoned a great success. The 101st Band of Engineers was very fine, -but the punch put the punch in the evening, and it had plenty of spirit. - -Since then things have moved along uneventfully. H. James and Calvin -Coulter left the next morning for Boulogne, so Martin and I have -practically carried on the medical service, aided by John Williams. -The officers' quarters have been running heavily, but no particularly -interesting cases anywhere. - -Last night Jim Russell had a birthday and asked some of us down to eat -an exceedingly good ham, and we had champagne. - -Life is becoming about as eventful as a monastery and goes on with -the same regularity. It is rounds, meals and a little reading, with an -occasional walk. Every one is coughing and snuffling. James and Coulter -are expected back to-morrow, and I hope about a week from to-day -we--Martin and self--will get off. If all goes well I hope to spend -Christmas in Paris. - -_December 12th._ Martin and I leave Friday for Boulogne, spending -Saturday in Paris. James will be in charge of the medical service. It -will be very nice to get away, but I hope they give me back my function -as chief of the medical service when I return. - -The French seem to make absolutely no preparation for Christmas. There -is not an extra ribbon hung in any shop, and in fact the only signs of -Christmas are the bundles in pink ribbon that keep arriving for the -men--they are many. I imagine pretty many are homesick. - -Henry James and Coulter got back Monday from their trip to Boulogne. -Henry said it was well worth while and seems to have enjoyed it very -much. - -Every one is coughing. Bronchitis is rife, and is running a very -virulent course. An autopsy on one of the men yesterday showed the -bronchia to be filled with pus. This was especially true in the smaller -ramifications. They die from an apparent sepsis and are fine examples -of a purulent bronchitis. McW., James, Stillman are all coughing and -sneezing. Practically all the younger men have been in hospital with -bronchitis, or influenza. I fear that our sick reports are running, and -will continue to run, very heavy this winter, with a comparatively high -mortality. - -We had news yesterday that the Engineers of the line of communication -would not take half the building over, which means that we are going to -stay here and that the whole place will be run as a hospital. - -Kilbane and Steiner left for Paris to-night to blow off steam. - -_December 15th._ _Paris!_ Martin and I arrived last night and came to -the Wagram. This morning, it is not yet nine, we have had our "cafe -complet" in our rooms which are overlooking the Tuileries Gardens. The -Louvre and the Pantheon are golden tinged in the early sunlight. It is -like a spring morning and a great joy to be away from the routine. - -_December 18th._ _Boulogne._ Mostly medical. Arrived here Sunday -night. In the arms of the English. General high prices and bad manners -prevail. Hotel Folkestone. We met Pool and Burt Lee in the dining-room -on arrival Monday. Saw Cushing and Harvard Unit, then No. 3 Canadian -and McCree, who showed us some of his chest work. Robinson of Harvard -Unit has been doing some good blood work. - -Lunch with Colonel Evans at Stationary Hospital 14. Walk home along the -cliffs with a great dirigible balloon hovering over the sea. In the -afternoon Robinson read his paper on transfusions and the preservation -of blood. - -Last night and again to-night Boche aeroplanes over the city and all -lights suddenly turned out about five p.m. The city was literally in -inky blackness, save for the pale flicker of the moon. Two wonderful -clear cold days. The atmosphere of the place is distinctly one of -depression. They all admit the situation is serious. - -_December 24th._ We left Boulogne last Thursday and started for -Paris. The train was packed with "permissionaires" and all in a -very jolly humor. The trip was well worth while, because it gave -me many suggestions of the problems of war medicine. The crowd was -terrific when we arrived in Paris--no taxis, so we struggled with the -complications of the metro, finally reaching the Wagram. - -Friday visited Vidal at Hospital Cochin. He had his clinic. We waited -for him and met him in his ante-room. He was most cordial. The man has -done a tremendous amount of literary work. There were volumes of it. He -is a thickset, forcible man of about forty-eight or fifty. - -I lunched with Lillie H. that afternoon where she had Cross and a Miss -McCook, Y. M. C. A. In the evening dined with Henry Clews, who was in -good form and opened up in the old style. Saturday L. lunched with me -and in the evening I dined with Mrs. Stuart. Friday afternoon saw Madam -A., an American woman with a Dutch husband. P. wanted me to see her. -Stupid old thing, as deaf as a post. - -Martin left me this morning. Am alone now till Wednesday or Thursday, -and then back again. - -_December 27th._ Returned from Paris with S. Ground white with snow. -They all seemed glad to see me. Evidently Christmas was a great -success. A full round of drinks, and they say all were happy, the -Colonel included. The place is packed with patients. Y. M. C. A. tent -is up and for the present filled with cots--cots in the corridors, so -we are in now for a lively time. - - - - -1918 - - -_January 18th._ Since last writing nothing of great importance has -taken place. - -My recommendation for a majority was sent to Washington about ten -days ago by Colonel Hansell. I hope it goes through and goes through -quickly. The snow has all disappeared and beautiful, glorious mud -reigns in its place. The Colonel is trying to jack up discipline--God -knows it needs it. I caught one man staggering home dead drunk and had -the pleasure of putting him under arrest. Blankets are being taken -and electric-light bulbs. The same old lazy American methods. Saw our -officers walking along the roads in their long coats, pretty sloppy -looking objects. You cannot make a soldier unless you dress him in a -soldierly fashion. The everlasting cry is we are a young country and -it takes us time to learn, but, damnation, does it take one hundred -and fifty years? Why could not our Government have attended to these -matters twenty-five years ago? - -_February 1st._ Kilbane, Steiner and myself are off in the morning for -our seven days' vacation. We are going to Nice, motoring to Dijon where -we hope to be able to catch the train or rather get accommodations on a -train, as we hear everything is crowded. - -Took my physical exam. for majority two days ago, Martin examining. - -We have had a wonderful fifteen days of clear weather, half of -them quite summery, but for the most part the air is very damp and -penetrating. - -_February 14th._ Back in Nice, with one day in Paris. We caught the -train from Dijon at one thirty a.m., and stood up the balance of the -night in the corridor as there were no seats--men and women stretched -out full length lying on the floor. Reached Marseilles at twelve noon -the next day, and stopped off for the balance of the day and night, -taking the express next morning. Beautiful country. Stopped at Nice at -the Hotel Negresco. First class. Perfect weather. - -We have twelve new M. C. nurses and enlisted men. A perfect mob now, -but they seem a fairly decent lot. Same old job, except this time I am -to start some fool work on food with a test squad of fifty men. Cannot -make out any point to it, except they want to find out how much waste -there is in preparation of food. - -_February 22nd._ Was sworn in as Major this morning by Colonel Island. - -_February 28th._ Howard Peck died. - -_March 1st._ Howard's funeral. 6th Artillery brass band, and all walked -down to the new American Cemetery. Poor Major Peck! - -_March 2nd._ We heard two weeks ago that Alfred Stillman's brother was -killed while flying. Alfred has been in London, having left on receipt -of the news. - -There are twelve new raw-boned Southerners added to our Unit since my -return from Nice. - -This morning we sent two operating teams to American C.C.S. No. 1, -McWilliams among them. Armitage Whittman has taken Henry James's bed in -our rooms. He seems to be a nice fellow. Stuart Benson, Paul Draper, -Beekman Hoppin and Mrs. "Bordie" Harriman have all turned up at one -time or another. - -_March 9th._ Alfred Stillman and I got a motor and rode out to American -C.C.S. No. 1, just north of Toul--a beautiful spring day and a very -pleasant trip. We lunched and dined at the Officers' Club, Neufchateau, -which sports a fine bar. - -_March 10th._ Last night some of the convalescent officers got two -motors and we went down and saw Elsie Janis. She told stories, sang -songs and danced for an hour and fifteen minutes. It was a delightful -performance, she was so perfectly natural and joked and talked with the -audience. - -_March 14th._ Am leaving for Paris for two days to-night with Major -Malone. - -_March 23rd._ This has been an eventful day. In the first place, -Colonel Hansell and Major Peck went on their vacations and I was left -C.O., which entails many fussy details. Then this afternoon Colonel -Mitchell of the Flying Corps, who was recently a patient of mine at -the Officers' Pavillion, paid me a call, asked me to motor out to Hill -412 Aerodrome with him, and sent me off on an aeroplane flight with a -French pilot. - -It was a wonderful sensation. We flew about twenty miles, circling over -Chaumont and the hospital. Words cannot describe it. It has all the -thrill of flying. The woods looked like little bunches of moss. We flew -over the Canal, which had the color of bright emerald. The Flying Corps -for me, if it wasn't for this cursed age. - -_April 4th._ This is approximately the tenth day of the great battle. -For many days we have all been very anxious, but now a rapid feeling -of confidence has arisen that the enemy is held. - -Have been Commanding Officer at the hospital for the past thirteen -days, the Colonel and Peck having taken their vacation in Nice. - -_April 19th._ _Paris_--Medical conference. Hansell and I roomed -together. I heard the big gun go off twice, otherwise all was quiet. - -Alexander Lambert asked me to dine with him. There were eight at -dinner--his wife, Major Strong and wife, and Colonel Island, also -Colonels Martin and Cummings of the English Army. While there Major -Thayer told me I was to be detailed to one of the Divisions as -Divisional Consultant. I was much pleased, as the news was a great -surprise, for among all the wire-pulling I hardly expected to have -anything good handed out unsolicited. - -_April 25th._ Orders to proceed to Neufchateau. Threw the necessities -in my old grip, rolled up the bedding and off in a Ford ambulance. Of -course, all haste was unnecessary, as when I got in Major Thayer was -away and Boggs, the Assistant Director of Medical Service, had gone to -Chaumont. Saw Finney, who invited me to lunch--one of those sweetly -solemn male luncheons where every one was afraid to say anything. - -Later that day Boggs turned up and we talked over affairs. The -Consultant has charge and direction of all cases in his department. My -orders were in a measure vague, and I should imagine it was largely up -to me to create the position. - -Spent the night at the Officers' Club and next day, Saturday, motored -with Finney and Boggs to C. C. S. No. 1 at Sevastepol where we lunched. -Saw Pool and McWilliams. The latter has gotten very fat. From there -we went on to Bucy, the 26th Division Headquarters, situated in a -charming old Norman chateau with beautiful grounds, and from the -terrace a superb view overlooking "Bocheland." It seemed a sacrilege -to desecrate the grounds. Guns were booming in the distance, and the -streets of the village were full of United States troops and transports. - -For fifteen miles and more behind the lines, the French were digging -entrenchments and erecting barbed wire. They are evidently taking no -chances. - -My original orders were not sufficiently comprehensive, so Sunday -returned to Chaumont with Brewer, and here I am (May 3rd) waiting -further orders before embarking on my new mission. - -_May 6th._ The new mission was just on the point of materializing when -the 'phone rang and I was told, with Colonel Keller's compliments, to -"disregard my orders." I felt like one personally conducted to hell and -abandoned. Dumped for some reason. It was cruel. I debated for some -time and then walked down to H. Q. and saw K. All the satisfaction -obtainable was that the 2nd Division was coming out of the line and -that a general reorganization was pending and to sit tight for further -orders, which would surely come, and I would not be forgotten. Said he -was not at liberty to divulge their plans further, and then changed the -subject and talked about Colonel Reno's death by suicide, saying he was -his best friend and showing me a letter from his wife. - -Moved our mess-hall over on the south end of the ground. Not much to -do, and every one depressed and gloomy. Cadwalader and Stillman having -their afternoon naps. Saw Major Flint last night at Hotel France--said -John Alsop was with him. Paul Draper regaled us yesterday with his days -of prosperity. It was a very wonderful story. - - - - -PART II - -_With the 42nd (Rainbow) Division_ - - - - -1918 - - -_November 18th._ It has been many months since I have attempted to -write anything, for the principal reason that shortly after the last -entry I was sent to the 42nd Division as Medical Consultant. The -Division was at Baccarat. At the time of my journey George E. Brewer of -New York was the Surgical Consultant, and for the first two weeks we -roomed together. Later I got a billet for myself over by the railroad. - -It was a great relief to get away from the stuffy monotony of 15. The -country was beautiful, and the opportunity to roam around and enter -into the life of the war was very refreshing. We had a nice mess, not -far from our billets--Sanford, Sam Arnold, "Sister" Rennis (Y.M.C.A.), -I. N. Perry (Red Cross), Brewer and myself. Brewer was the cock o' the -walk. Henry Sanford was Division Neurologist. - -We had an epidemic of what we called "three day flu"--really, I think, -grippe. Something like forty cases of pneumonia resulted from it. They -ran a very protracted course and the incidence of empyema was high. - -While at Baccarat I took many little side trips with Brewer in his -motor. According to rules, I was entitled to a motor, but in spite of -constant efforts I never got it and it did much to cripple my work with -the Division. - -Aside from gas attacks there was not much activity in the line. We had -several nasty gas attacks. Jaspar Coglan was gas officer and seemed -very efficient, but in spite of everything he did, they would get us in -much too large proportions. - -I drove out almost every day inspecting the regimental aid posts. The -Division area was about twenty-five square miles. At one place where -there was a gap in the woods, the trees had been shot away; when the -Germans saw the dust of the motor they would put over a few shells, -but they always broke behind us. Although the line was comparatively -quiet, there was always more or less of a thrill in making these trips. - -About the middle of June rumors began to spread. One, that we were -to move up north and that "big business" was soon to begin. Finally -officers from the 77th blew in to look the ground over, and then we -knew they were the relieving division and that we were to go. In a day -or two the jam in the street was terrific. 42nd moving out--77th coming -in. - -I motored in advance one morning, about the twentieth of June, to a -charming little French town--Chatel. We spent two days here. A pleasant -billet and days of real rest after a month's hard work. - -The Division was slowly moving north to an unknown destination, some of -it by train (the infantry)--the artillery and other overland. We found -out that it would be somewhere in the neighborhood of Chalons, so -started on ahead. We were finally assigned to a sector, of which the -town of Souain was the center, about twenty-five kilometers north of -Chalons. Medical headquarters at Vardanay. - -While there visited Chalons many times and had some excellent dinners -at the Hotel Angleterre, which was afterward totally destroyed by a -bomb. Also had a most interesting lunch with General Gouraud, to whose -4th Army we were attached. General Gouraud sent us to Verdun, where -we were well entertained by Colonel Dehays, and lunched with General -Hirschauer, the Commander of the Army of Verdun. It was all wonderfully -interesting. The view from Fort St. Nicholas was grand, but we were -shelled heartily while enjoying it. The whole country is devastated. - -The days were full of new and interesting experiences. The end of -June found me in a little peasant house at Vardanay across the way -from the church. Our mess was in a combination schoolhouse and cafe, -just to the right of the church. Madame Michel was the old lady -proprietor's name. I had a little room under the roof, papered with -daily newspapers. She had a nice little garden. After our mess we would -congregate there and discuss what news there was. - -It was pretty evident that they expected Fritz to start his next -push somewhere in that neighborhood, as there were very extensive -preparations being made. Troops and guns were arriving in large -quantities every night, and all night long truck-loads of supplies -were rumbling by my billet. Bussy-le-Chateau, about twenty kilos to -our east, was chosen for our evacuation hospital, and two of our field -hospitals, together with Mobile No. 2 (Captain St. John) were installed -there. Walter Cannon came with a shock team, and I think we had either -ten or twelve surgical teams. - -I made almost daily trips in to Souain and the different positions -held by our men. Toward the west (Rheims) there was almost constant -bombarding, and at night the sky was brilliantly illuminated with gun -flashes and rockets, but on our immediate sector there was almost an -ominous quiet. Our artillery put over a daily barrage, but scarcely a -shell came in. - -Everything was ready, and still nothing happened. All sorts of rumors -were afloat, that the attack would probably develop elsewhere, etc. -In the evening after dark it was my habit to walk out on the plains -and watch the artillery at work. The night of the fourteenth of July -was cloudy, and it had been blowing a gale from the south all day. The -guns were all very active, some shells coming in. The gale blew so that -standing two hundred yards from the 155 mms. I could hardly hear the -report. Starting the homeward trip about eleven against the wind, it -almost made walking impossible. It seemed surely as if nothing would -happen that night. - -I had just undressed and blown the candle out, when crash and a roar. -I knew what had happened and jumped from bed, pulling on a shirt, -trousers and boots, without stopping to lace them. Before I had -finished shells were dropping in Vardanay, many of them singing over -the roof. As I ran down the stairs poor old Madame Michel met me. I -sent her to the remains of the old Roman catacombs under the garden, -and walked out into the road after fumbling with the gate for what -seemed an age, trying to find the key and get it in the lock. While I -was fussing a house further down the street was struck and dust and -splinters dropped all over me. - -I met Fairchild (D. S. Fairchild, Chief Surgeon, 42nd Division). His -motor was waiting, and we got in and started east toward Bussy. I -looked at my watch--it was twelve ten. - -The roar of the artillery was so great that we had to yell to make -ourselves heard. Shells were flying over our heads, breaking on both -sides of the road. Where the road turned north for a few hundred yards -our motor suddenly stopped. The chauffeur managed to make it run again, -but as we waited shells were constantly screeching over our heads. - -We reached Bussy in due time. The roads were crowded with all manner of -transport, and we crawled along, the only light being the gun flashes. - -At Bussy all was ready. The first wounded began coming in about two a. -m. At the same time the Boche opened fire on the hospital. At first -the shots were wild, but with the break of day and probably aerial -observation, they began getting direct hits. After three or four -we decided to send nurses below and evacuate patients to dugouts, -and, after further consultation, to fall back on the other two field -hospitals and Evacuation 4 at Ecury-sur-Coole. These had been prepared -in advance for just such a contingency. - -The nurses left first. I took charge of the patients, and -superintended the loading of them on ambulances and got the whole lot -loaded in a little over an hour. - -I had no leggings, in fact had nothing but trousers, socks, shirt and -jacket, so while we were waiting for transportation to move with, I -went in and Allison loaned me a razor with which I started to shave, -but while I was all lathered and had just commenced, they began -shelling again. I kept on, but had a good many nicks on my face, for I -could not keep my hand from jerking when they whizzed over. About five -minutes after I left the hut it was struck and completely demolished. - -Got down to Ecury in time for a bite to eat (lunched with Campbell), -then went back to Triage where I had been working all night. Short of -ambulances. Sent Fagely out to find trucks. He got some thirty Q. M. -trucks and pressed them into service. Majorie Nott and several other R. -C. women came on the scene, making coffee and sandwiches. - -Wounded pouring in. Triage crowded. A. lost his head and was flying -around like a madman. Many necessaries lacking. Profanity flying. -Night. Dare not show a light. Promptly at ten p.m. air full of avions, -dropping twenty or more bombs on Chalons. Saw three large fires. -Wounded coming in all night. Six operating teams going, but not half -enough. They can't nearly handle the work, and too many men kept -waiting who need urgent attention. - -Two p. m. Avions again over Chalons and us. More bombing. The sky full -of searchlights. Dawn. Almost dead. Two nights and a day, but the -wounded still coming in. At seven a.m. am relieved by some one. Go down -and climb in Spielman's bed and sleep till ten a. m., then go on duty. - -Third night. Chalons bombed. Aviator flew over us. He could not have -been one hundred feet above the tents, and in the moonlight clearly -visible. He dropped two bombs. No one hurt. Don't remember how long -exactly we stayed here, but think it was eight or ten days. Chalons -bombed nightly. - -About the sixth day returned to Vardanay. The house was locked and -Madame M. gone, but climbed in the window, got my belongings and put -them in the motor. The village was deserted, save for a few old women -and a child. They sat around the mouth of the cave and went below -whenever the shelling started. It was a pathetic sight. I left some -money with them, which surprised them more than the shells. - -There is a lot of talk about the rotten way things were handled in -general. Not enough ambulances, nor general equipment, and such as we -had was antiquated. - -About July 24th or 25th, orders to move. Where, no one knows. Started -cross country with field hospitals, going west. - -Chateau-Thierry. Started in all over again. Night and day wounded -pouring in. Insufficient ambulances. Insufficient hospitalization. Not -an evacuation hospital on the scene till the main push is over. Two -field hospitals taking the brunt of the work. Transporting wounded in -trucks thirty-five kilometers clear to Commercy. - -Pushed on with the troops to Epieds and later to Fere-en-Tardenois. -Much evidence that the Boche is beating a hasty retreat, from the -quantities of stores and munitions left behind. - -Considerable bombing. Was almost caught on the road by three bombs -returning from La Ferte with Perry. - -We pulled out the end of August and left for Bourmont near Chaumont. -En route spent three delightful days in a small French chateau in -Lysantry, five kilometers from La Ferte. The old caretaker cooked for -me and I ate under the trees. I hated to go. - -We understand the Division gets thirty days' rest, but we get seven, -then orders to move. All night groping our way in the dark, arrive in -Longchamps at dawn in a drizzling rain. I knocked on the door of the -first house in the village and after a long pause was admitted by a -very old man. He had a fine spare room and without undressing I wrapped -myself in blankets and fell asleep. The old man was eighty-six and his -wife eighty-four. They lived there all alone. - -Next day moved to Chatenois two kilometers away where headquarters -were. No news of probable destination. Three nights later another move, -this time to Germiny on the road to Toul, or rather just off it. Dirty -little place, but got a fair billet. Two nights here, then all night on -the road, arrived at Bicqueley in early morning and camped by roadside -thirty-six hours (B. is ten kilometers south of Toul). Later on to -Bruley. Rotten billets. The place is full of French and everything is -crowded. Rain and mud. - -Probably the attack will be at St. Mihiel. - -Saw a ghastly notice posted in the Y. M. C. A. to the effect that if -any of our men were taken prisoner and questioned to say nothing; that -torture would undoubtedly be used, and that such men would never be -allowed to return alive, no matter what they said. It ended by saying -let them meet Eternity with the knowledge they had done their duty. It -gave me a thrill as I read it. - -At most of our stops I have been fortunate in finding French families -where I could get something to eat. - -It is St. Mihiel. We move to Ansauville. The attack commences--I forget -the date. In fact, one seldom knows it. We are in advance of the -heavies, they firing over our heads. The show opens at one thirty a. m. -It is drizzling. The fire is very intense, but nothing like Souain. - -By four p.m. the guns ease off and the men go over. Met Normand who -was in charge of Vittel, also a Major Finck, a fine man. They asked me -to billet with them. The whole place is shot to pieces and there is -scarcely any shelter to be found. We three, and sometimes a fourth -casual, sleep in a kitchen. It is about the only place that has half a -roof. - -Later next day Normand and I pushed north with the advancing troops. -The roads were simply jammed, but we followed up, finally getting into -Essie. Every one is wild with enthusiasm, for the Boche is simply on -the run. Groups of German prisoners are constantly passing us on the -road down. Many have their knapsacks all packed, so must have been -expecting us. I counted over eleven hundred going through the fields. -They certainly make a most cheering sight. - -We pass through several small towns, nothing but a mass of rubble now. -The balloons are all moving forward. - -Essie is a mass of ruins. The 82nd Division is holding the place. None -of the transports have come up and there is still intermittent shelling. - -The 42nd's triage is here in a cellar. We met and talked to a large -number of the liberated civilians. They were happy, but very quiet. -Most of them were old people. One woman had a baby by a Boche. Every -one pointed her and it out, but it was more in the spirit of historical -interest than anything else. An unfortunate accident. She clutched the -baby as if in her eyes it was a perfectly good infant. - -Toward night we made our way back and the next day started for -Thiaucourt to help get out the civil population. The town was fairly -intact when we first entered it, but while we were there they started -up a violent artillery action. Soon buildings began to go. Most of the -shelling was for one of their ammunition dumps they had abandoned in -their precipitous flight. However, a little later the guns were turned -on the town. - -We got out all the civilians without any casualties. I have heard -since that the place is completely wrecked. They kept on shelling it -intermittently until November 11th. - -A few days later we went out to Pont-a-Mousson. (We referring to -Normand and myself.) The action had shifted more to the east, judging -from the intensity of the artillery action. We passed out along the -Thierry road. The lines had, of course, all pushed forward, but the -place was just lined with the old gun emplacements. As our road -gradually neared the Boche lines one could hear that a very heavy -duel was in progress. We continued to the cross-road which turns into -Pont-a-Mousson. Shells were dropping here every three minutes. We timed -them, and when one exploded, beat it, full steam ahead. Our batteries -were more terrifying than Fritz's, because they were on both sides of -the road and were going off right under your nose. - -When we arrived in the town things were very active. We took shelter -in an abri for a time, but as most of the shells were passing over, -searching out our "heavies" behind the town, we decided to walk along, -across the river and climb into Mousson, a high conical hill where the -French observation post was. It was a long, hot pull with a constant -accompaniment of whistling shells, but when we got there it was well -worth while. - -The post was on the very top in some partially demolished buildings, -the view from whence was superb. One, with the aid of the glass, could -see Metz distinctly, even reading the time on the Cathedral clock. - -Five hundred yards across to the next hill was the German observation -post, but "noblesse oblige," they left one another alone. Below, across -the river, were three German towns with the peasants working quietly in -the fields, and right across the river was one of the Crown Prince's -many chateaux, untouched, although one of our 75's could have blown it -to fragments in five minutes. - -As the gun-fire was likely to increase rather than diminish with -sunset, we started down the hill and back through Pont-a-Mousson. -The place was all but deserted, only a few Americans hanging around -the mouths of abris. We found our motor and driver, however, after -some little search, keeping careful lookout in the meanwhile where the -shells were falling. Just as we were leaving the town two 77's broke in -the road behind us, but doing no further damage than to cover us in a -cloud of earth. - -Two days later ordered to move forward and accordingly took position -at Beaumont just behind Sains made famous by the stand of the Marines -earlier in the summer. - -Beaumont was nothing but a mass of wreckage and mud. We pitched the two -field hospitals on the ground floor of all that remained of an old-time -chateau, while the officers lived in the abandoned French dugouts. -These were fairly comfortable, but infested with rats. The whole place -is a sea of mud and filth. - -During most of the St. Mihiel drive we had fine weather, except the -first three days. The drive started September 12th, with the moon in -the first quarter, consequently we had great German aerial activity. -One evening a Boche plane was brought down by one of our men just at -sunset. Both Germans were killed. Every night planes flew over our -heads all night, but fortunately nothing fell near us. - - * * * * * * * * - -On September 26th I was detached from the 42nd Division and sent as -Medical Consultant to the Justice Group of seven hospitals at Toul. H. -C. Madden (Lt.-Col.) was Commanding Officer--an efficient man. The work -here is purely medical and very tame after the Division. I was much -disappointed as Thayer had promised me the 3rd Army Corps. - -Toul is a dreary place and the darkest corner of France I have found. -I have tried to organize the service, a thing requiring some tact, as -each hospital has an excellent chief of its own medical service. - -On October 6th I got into Paris for the Red Cross medical meeting. It -was my first sight of real civilization since the previous April when I -hated the everlasting dreary nights. However, this time it did not make -much difference, as I was dog-tired and only too glad to turn in after -dinner. Spirits are brighter moreover with the continuing good news. *** - - -_The Last Salvo_ - -_November 11th._ _The last salvo was fired at eleven this morning!_ -While I was in Paris called on L. There were two old chatterboxes there -who cackled about divorces and clothes. It gave me such a strange -sensation and seemed so unreal and trivial. I suppose the world must go -on in spite of war--"battle, murder and sudden death." - -_November 18th._ Was commissioned Lieutenant-Colonel to-day and walked -down town and bought some silver leaves in the afternoon. - -On November 3rd a telegram from Helen telling me that dear father had -died on the tenth of October. I had expected it, but it was a shock. - -_November 24th._ Have just returned from what I hope will be the last -Paris medical meeting. I want to get home, and kicking about the city -is pretty dreary. Called on every one I knew. Saw Dorziat and Lucien -Guitry in "Samson" and supped at Maxim's. - -Have applied for home, and am hoping with all my heart that it will go -through. Work over here is an awful anti-climax now. - -_December 6th._ Toul. Called up Neufchateau three days ago and spoke to -Major McLean. General Thayer, as usual, was not there. However, McLean -told me I would get my home orders. The same night Colonel Thornburgh -told me he had arranged matters so I could go, but now it was necessary -to wait for my rating card before the final orders could be issued, so -here I am, waiting. - -Last night we went over to a musical show at the Marshal Ney Barracks. -It was very poor--absolutely devoid of imagination or humor. - -This morning I got the motor after some scrapping and took Yocum, -Hodges and Kennon over to Metz. We went via Pont-a-Mousson. There -was a thick fog which practically obscured the views. As we passed -through Pont-a-Mousson I could not but think of the time I was last -there with Normand when shells were coming and going all the time. The -road was still fairly full of transports, but nothing like old times. -Pont-a-Mousson was more shot up than when I last saw it, and it was -almost deserted. - -From there we soon ran into German territory, with old gun -emplacements, camouflage and ruined buildings all along the road. - -Metz was gaily decorated with flags, and the streets were gay with -French and Americans, but the whole air suggested a conquered city. -Some shops had posted "Maison Francaise" on the door; painters were -rapidly changing the signs from German to French. The Hotel welcomed -one, but everywhere it was with the air of the conqueror. The people -were frightened and did not know what was going to happen. There -were only eight thousand real Alsace-Lorraines in the city, so an -intelligent German officer told me, and most of the "hurrahing" was -done from policy. - -Boys and men were doing a thriving business in selling Boche souvenirs. -Iron crosses and belts being their specialty. And the Americans were -the victims, especially the large army who fought the war in swivel -chairs and are seeing the front for the first time. - -In spite of all tales to the contrary, the shops seemed full, -especially the provision stores. Prices are very high. I saw plain -women's hats, that are generally seen at a store like Macy's piled by -hundreds in a box and selling for fifty cents, marked fifty and sixty -francs. There was no rubber, so bicycle tires were made of a steel -spring arrangement and one of rope. Shoes had wooden soles. - -We had a very good plain dinner, but paid ten francs for what -ordinarily would have been about three marks. The beer was simply -bitter water. - -Coming home we passed on the other bank of the Moselle and back through -Lorry, Fleury, Meiul-la-Tour, and so home, but the roads were all -deserted--so very different from my previous visits. - -_December 12th._ Yesterday Fullerton (Major Robert Fullerton of St. -Louis) asked me to go to Montfaucon and Varennes with him. We started -this morning at eight a. m. in a drizzling rain and fog. - -On our way out we went through Commercy, St. Mihiel and Verdun. The -latter looked much tidier than when I saw it in July with Brewer. Out -of Verdun through the Gate St. Paul into the beyond on the Montfaucon -road, the battlefield is still fresh. The destruction is worse than -anything I have so far seen. The earth for miles is torn with shells, -one hole knocked out and then the edge of that hole knocked into -another. Several of the holes were twelve to fourteen feet deep, and -thirty-five or forty feet across. Everywhere was wreckage; gunners' -positions, guns (77's), machine guns, clothes, rifles and quantities of -Boche ammunition; all the towns about were obliterated. - -While we were waiting at the former Crown Prince's house, the owner -turned up after an absence of four years and three months. I wish I -could describe the scene. She was a plump little woman of fifty-five or -more. Two men friends drove her out from somewhere. We were standing in -the door when she descended from the old trap. She came in through the -mud and announced in a cheery voice that this was her old home. There -was a little tremor in her voice when she turned and said: "There was -the salle-a-manger, but gentlemen, as you see, it is all no more. We -left it at two a. m. September 2nd, 1914, and with it everything in my -life departed." Still the voice was cheery. "My husband, son-in-law and -two sons have been killed. My grandfather, who was buried over there -(pointing) has been turned out of his grave." She then looked around a -few minutes, gazing in a wistful way, then walked out the front door, -turned and looked back at the mass of wreckage. Her lips trembled, she -covered her mouth with her hand, and we heard a few soft sobs. Then she -quietly turned, pulled up her skirts and tramped out into the muddy -road. - -Cressy a Varennes. We passed through there on the way back. Like -the other neighboring towns it only exists in name. The same utter -desolation, shell holes, tin cans, wire, guns, shells, fog and rain. -Nothing can ever picture the dreary awfulness of it all. It looked as -if the sun had faded and we were at the end of the world, stepping into -the Infinite. - -Back to Toul at seven and it was good to see a few lights burning in -the homes. - -_December 13th._ Raining hard all day, but very warm and balmy. -Cornelia Landon and Rose Saltonstall of Boston are at our mess for -a few days. I asked Colonel Thornburgh to invite them, as they were -billeted here and sick. The Madame told me there were two sick -Americans down there, and I was much surprised to see little Landon. -Saltonstall is very bright and attractive. We don't see much of them, -for they only show up for lunch, playing in the evening. - -It seems strange to be sitting December 13th with your window open, -enjoying the efforts of the moon to work through the clouds. - -_December 15th._ Went to Neufchateau on the excuse of seeing Thayer, -who was not there. A beautiful sunny day. Met Tommy Robertson at the -Officers' Club and had a fairly good representation of a real cocktail. - -Landon and Saltonstall left this morning. I did not see them again, -but they left two nice little good-by letters. - -_December 20th._ A bit colder. There was a flurry of snow yesterday, -but still, with the exception of a few days in October, there has been -no cold weather. - -Took my daily walk up to the railroad track. Found the life of P. T. -Barnum among some old books and read hard for two hours. - -Colonel T. has an attack of rheumatism, is in bed, and feels very sorry -for himself. - -We take Christmas dinner at B. H. 45, that is unless I have the good -luck to get away before then. Every one is beginning to feel very -homesick and restless. I cannot realize that Christmas will be here in -four days. There isn't a suggestion of it in the air. - -The children keep up a continual chatter in the next room, but strange, -it is rather pleasant than otherwise. If they would only not start the -squeaky old pump at seven in the morning! - -_Christmas Eve, 1918._ It hardly seems possible that another year has -rolled by and Christmas is here again. One year ago to-night, and now -here again in Toul. - -Goodall, Yocum and self went to Nancy this afternoon. In the evening -the Delatte children came in my room, played the piano and they danced. -I gave them some candy; then to supper. - -Dinner was pretty sad. Never try and be gay, is a rule that should be -taught in childhood. - -My landlady, is having "tea" at nine this evening, and I am expected to -join. The day started beautifully, but it is sleeting hard now. And mud -everywhere. - -No signs of Christmas anywhere among the French, except Madame Delatte -asked me to go to Midnight Mass with her. She got confessed this -afternoon, and is ready now for another year of miserliness. Much to my -astonishment, she made me a brioche. - -_December 28th._ Waiting! Waiting for orders to return. Cadwalader -called me up Friday and said he had received his, and that my name was -on the same paper, but nothing has come. It is very trying. Over three -weeks now in daily anticipation. - -Yocum, Goodall and self went to Neufchateau. Saw Finney, Boggs and -Longcape, but no one knew anything about what was happening. We lunched -and came back by way of Domremy, Jeanne d'Arc's birthplace. Then across -via Voucoleur to Colombey-la-Belle. Heavy fog and rain, as usual. There -were no lights on the machine, so we had to grope the last four miles -home. - -_New Years Eve._ By special invitation I was asked to see the old year -out with Madame De Salle, my neighbor of the next room. There was great -stirring about all afternoon in her rooms, and I could hear a stirring -of something in a bowl. Phillip, her son, age eight, came in to get me -at eight p. m., but I did not turn up till nine. When all the guests -were assembled, which was promptly at nine, we sat down, ate a piece -of dry sponge-cake, drank a small glass of white wine, then a little -coffee. Lieutenant Le Beau, Madame Gerard, the local teacher of the art -of piano-playing, a fat, healthy, false-toothed dame, Madame Ralling, -and her son waxing into manhood, down on his upper lip and a voice that -wabbled from treble to bass. At midnight we all kissed. - -But this is all as nothing now, for it is January 2nd, 1919, and -at three fifteen p. m. this afternoon, after all hope of anything -immediate had vanished, received orders for home. Telegraphed H. and -leave for Paris Saturday, January 4th, en route for Angers and from -there to a port of embarkation. - - -_Printing House of_ WILLIAM EDWIN RUDGE _New York City_ - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A DOCTOR IN FRANCE, 1917-1919*** - - -******* This file should be named 60343.txt or 60343.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/0/3/4/60343 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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