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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a5eecde --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #60192 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/60192) diff --git a/old/60192-0.txt b/old/60192-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 5df50c2..0000000 --- a/old/60192-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2032 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Spices, Their Histories, by Robert O. Fielding - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Spices, Their Histories - Valuable Information for Grocers - - -Author: Robert O. Fielding - - - -Release Date: August 29, 2019 [eBook #60192] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SPICES, THEIR HISTORIES*** - - -E-text prepared by Turgut Dincer, Charlie Howard, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images -generously made available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 60192-h.htm or 60192-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/60192/60192-h/60192-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/60192/60192-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/spicestheirhisto00fiel - - - - - -SPICES - -THEIR HISTORIES - -Valuable Information For Grocers - - -[Illustration] - - -Price Fifty Cents - - - - - - -Copyrighted 1910 -By the Trade Register, Inc. -Seattle, Washington. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - PAGE - INTRODUCTION 3 - - ALLSPICE OR PIMENTO 4 - - CAPSICUM 7 - - CINNAMON AND CASSIA 13 - - CLOVES 21 - - GINGER 25 - - MUSTARD 31 - - NUTMEG AND MACE 36 - - PEPPER 45 - - CUMIN, OR CUMMIN SEED 52 - - - - -SPICES - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -The history of spices, with other valuable information to all branches -of the grocery trade, was originally written by Robert O. Fielding, of -the staff of the Trade Register, in which the several articles appeared -in various issues of that journal, duly protected by copyright, with -the accompanying illustrations. - -Retail grocers everywhere will find this little book of especial value -for study and reference. It is all meat for the salesman who realizes -that success in trade these days depends upon knowing where the goods -he handles were produced, how to judge their qualities, how they are -prepared for market, and what are their uses. How to sell, the market -conditions, etc., are continuously set forth in the weekly issues of -the Trade Register, $2 a year, by men who have had practical experience -behind the counter. - -[Illustration: Lovett M. Wood (signature)] - - Editor. - - - - -ALLSPICE OR PIMENTO - -A Valuable Product From Jamaica Which Combines the Flavor of Cloves, -Cinnamon and Nutmeg - - -Allspice is the dried unripe berries of a tree of the myrtle family, -the pimento, known botanically as Eugenia pimenta, or Pimenta -officinalis. It’s an evergreen tree some 20 to 30 ft. high, with a -slender, straight, upright trunk, much branched at the top; the bark -is smooth, gray and aromatic; the leaves--which when fresh abound -in essential oil--are 5 in. long, of an oblong shape and deep shiny -green color; the blossoms--which appear in July and August--are white -and fragrant; the berries (sometimes called corns), which form on the -disappearance of the flower, are picked unripe, altho fully grown, they -are of a greenish-purple color. After picking, the berries are dried in -the sun or in kilns until dark brown and then separated from the stalk. -The dried berries are light, brittle, of roundish form and crowned with -the remains of the flower calyx in the shape of a raised, seared-like -ring; each berry contains two dark-brown flattish, kidney-shaped -seeds. If allowed to ripen, the berries lose their aromatic flavor and -become merely sweet and pulpy. Only in Jamaica--where it is cultivated -in plantations called Pimento walks--does the pimento tree grow to -perfection, altho attempts are made to cultivate it in other West India -islands and South America. It is thought to combine the flavor of -cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, hence it is called allspice. - -[Illustration] - -=Uses=--Its chief use is for culinary purposes. It is a powerful -irritant, good for dyspepsia, flatulency, gout, hysteria and toothache. -It is often employed to disguise the nasty taste of medicine. Allspice -yields volatile oil by distillation, which is used as a flavoring in -alcoholic solution, is of a brownish-red, clear appearance, and has the -odor and taste of pimento, but is warm and more pungent. A green fixed -oil has the burning aromatic taste of pimento and is supposed to be -the acrid principle. A tincture from allspice has been praised as an -application in chilblains. - -=Substitutes.=--The Mexican spice, called Pimento de Tabascol is -somewhat larger and less aromatic than Jamaica pimento. The berries -of Pimento acris, (bayberry) whose leaves are used in the manufacture -of bay-rum. The Carolina allspice--calycanthus florides, a shrub -6 or 8 ft. high, with an odor somewhat like strawberries. Japan -allspice--chimonanthus frangrans--which grows in Japan, and wild -allspice--lindera benzoin--known also as spice-wood, fever-wood, -benjamin-bush--a member of the laurel family growing in the United -States. To secure uniformity of color these inferior kinds are often -colored with Armenian bole, a kind of red clay from Armenia, and they -are also often mixed in ground allspice, in addition to the stalks of -the pimento. A kind of red pimento from Salonica is also used as an -adulterant. During the civil war, when pimento was high in price, a -substitute was made up of clove-stems, wasted rye, a little cayenne -pepper, and some cassia; this was very acceptable, altho there was not -an ounce of pimento in it. - - - - -CAPSICUM - -Cayenne Pepper Is Made from This Branch of the Nightshade -Family--Descriptions of the Various Varieties of Capsicum--Tabasco -Pepper Sauce - - -The capsicum is a genus of plants of the nightshade family (Salanacea) -that grows luxuriently in all tropical countries and many species of -which are cultivated in the temperate zone. Capsicum or Red Pepper is -of American origin for these reasons: Fruits so conspicuous, so easily -grown in gardens and so agreeable to the palates of the inhabitants of -hot countries would have very quickly diffused thruout the old world, -if they had existed in the South of India, as it has sometimes been -supposed. They would have had names in several ancient languages, yet -neither the Romans, Greeks nor the Hebrews were acquainted with them. -They are not mentioned in ancient clinic books. The islands of the -Pacific did not cultivate them at the time of Cook’s voyage in spite -of the proximity of the Sunda Isle where Rumphines mentions their very -general use. The Arabian physician, Ebn Baithar, who collected in the -13th century all that eastern nations knew about medicinal plants, says -nothing about them. Probably the first known history of cayenne pepper -in Europe is that given by Martyr, who writes of Columbus bringing -it home in 1493 and speaks of it being more pungent than that from -Caucasus, probably referring to the Oriental black pepper. About a -century later, Gerarde writes of its being brot into Europe from Africa -and Southern Asia and being grown in European gardens. Probably the -first record of its use is that by Dr. Chanca, who was physician with -Columbus’ fleet in 1494, and who alludes to it as a condiment used in -dressing meats, dying and other purposes, as well as a medicine. From -the ground dried seeds and pericarp of certain varieties of capsicum -we get cayenne pepper, so-called from Cayenne, in French Guiana, S. A., -whence it was imported by the French. Cayenne pepper is also called -Calicut and Napaul, the names of places of export, and it was known as -Guiana pepper over 300 years ago. The derivation of the word “Capsicum” -is uncertain; it may be from Kapto, hot, on account of its pungent -taste, or from capsa, a box, or chest, referring to the form of its -fruit. The plant grows from 1 ft. to 6 ft. high and is fairly well -branched; the flowers are white or greenish-white; the fruits of the -several species are of various forms, round, oblong, cordate or horned, -and contain a number of flattish seeds. The seeds after the removal of -the pericarp, and then thoroly washed and dried, are entirely devoid of -acidity and pungency. The hotter and drier the soil, the more acrid and -pungent the fruit. - -[Illustration] - -Used in moderate quantities, capsicum or cayenne pepper, promotes -digestion and so prevents flatulence. The natives of Brazil boil the -capsicums and dip their manioc bread in it, making a kind of fiery -soup. They are extensively used in India in compounding curries and -chutneys. In Bengal the natives make an extract from the small capsicum -chilies of about the consistency of molasses. The bell peppers are -pleasant stuffed with meats, fish, other vegetables, etc. The sweet and -mild kinds fed to birds are said to improve their plumage. - -C. Annum is the most common species and contains a great many -varieties, among them the Pimiento (not Pimento or allspice) commonly -known as Spanish red peppers or morrons, also Paprika, or Hungarian -sweet pepper. This species is never found growing wild. - -C. frutesens is sometimes called goat pepper and is generally described -as the true cayenne. Its leaves are from 3 in. to 6 in. long by 2 in. -to 3½ in. wide, the fruit is red, obtuse or oblong accumminate, ¾ to -1½ in. long and ¼ to ¾ in. in diameter. It is very acrid and pungent. -It is only cultivated in the tropical regions, as the seasons in the -temperate climate are not long enuf to mature the fruit. - -C. baccatum is ovate of sub-round and about ¼ in. in diameter. C. -baccatum have been known in the English gardens since 1731. - -C. facticulatum, also known as Mexican chilies, is a shrubby plant of -Sierra Leone, and grows in Zanzibar; also known as small chilies, or -red cluster peppers. The fruit, which grows erect, is oblong linear, -not quite an inch in length and of a deep red orange color. Another -variety, which are mostly consumed locally, have larger red and -yellow fruit. Zanzibar capsicums or chilies, are dirty looking, of a -brownish-red color and very hot. A variety from Japan are bright red, -not so pungent as the other growths, but of finer aroma. - -C. ceresiforme, the fruit is spherical, sub-cordate, oblate or -occasionally pointed. The flesh is firm, from 1-12 to ½ in. thick, -and very pungent; from the shape of its fruit it is called the cherry -capsicum, or pepper. - -C. grossum, originally from India, grows 2 ft. high, with a few -branches and large leaves 3 to 5 in. long, the fruit is large, oblong -or ovate, and is known as bell pepper; it is mostly used for stuffing -and pickling; the skin being thick, soft and tender and of a mild -flavor. - -C. abberciatum, with ovate fruit about 2 in. long. While this variety -is used to some extent for pickling, it is cultivated more as an -ornamental plant. - -C. longum grows to about 3 ft. high with comparatively few branches, -the fruit is often a foot long and 2 in. in diameter. The flesh is -thick and flavor mild. - -C. Acumination is about 2½ ft. high. The fruit, which is small, grows -both erect and pendent. - -C. Conordes, with oblong linear fruit, which grows erect, is very acrid -and pungent. It is known as tabasco capsicum or pepper. Bird pepper, -bird’s-eye chilies, red-bird pepper, etc., are commercial names given -to the mild, sweet varieties of capsicum on account of their being fed -to birds. Nepaul pepper, commercial name for capsicum imported from -that place in India. Nepaul pepper has an odor and flavor resembling -orris root and a pod the color of amber when dried. It is most esteemed -as a condiment, being aromatic and appetizing, and not so acrid or -biting as is most cayenne. Paprika, commercial name for the mild, sweet -varieties of capsicum, chiefly grown in Hungary, Spain, Portugal, -Jamaica, Japan and Zanzibar. - -Japanese pepper is the fruit of Xanthoxylum, an entirely different -genus of plants to the capsicum family. The fruit capsules when bruised -are agreeably pungent and aromatic. It is much esteemed as a condiment -in China and Japan. - -Tabasco pepper sauce originated with Mr. E. McIllhenny, of New Iberia, -La., in 1868, from a variety of capsicum in which the fruit grows -erect, and was brot by a soldier friend of Mr. McIllhenny from Tabasco -in Mexico after the close of the Mexican war. - -Tabasco catsup originated with Mr. George Bayle of St. Louis, Mo. The -base of it is said to be equal proportions of powdered capsicum and -essence of tomatoes. - -Ground cayenne pepper soon loses its bright color when kept too long -or exposed to the light, and becomes dingy in appearance, so it is not -always wise to judge by looks alone, as red ocher, turmeric, mustard, -rice, sawdust, salt, brick dust, etc., have been found in cayenne -pepper. - -The large fruits or pods are commercially known as capsicums, and the -smaller ones as chilies. The term pepper is a misnomer as applied to -this spice. - - - - -CINNAMON AND CASSIA. - -The Sweet Wood of Ceylon and the Aromatic Bark of the Present Day Often -Confused With Cassia--Valuable Trade History. - - -Cinnamon - -As in the case of sago and tapioca, a good deal of misconception -prevails in regard to cinnamon and cassia, and as with sago and -tapioca, one is often sold for the other by the uninformed. The word -“cassia,” botanically speaking, has nothing whatever to do with the -aromatic bark which we call by that name, but refers to a genus of -plants of the bean family, from which are derived the dried senna -leaves, an infusion of which our mothers induced us to take by the -bribe of a piece of candy, altho we had “tummy ache” for a brief space -afterwards. The word “cinnamon” is derived from two Malayan words -“cassia” from the Greek word “kasian,” which occurs in Psalms XLV-8, -and elsewhere in the Bible, where it is supposed to refer to the -aromatic bark of the present day, was afterwards tacked on. That cassia -(the bark) was known in biblical times is well authenticated. It is -mentioned in a Chinese herbal published in 1700 B. C. under the name -kwei. - -The earliest mention of cinnamon is in a list of offerings by -Seleneneus Callinieus, king of Syria, and his brother, Antiochus -Hierax, to the temple of Apollo at Miletus, 243 B. C. Among the gifts -mentioned are: “2 lbs. of cassia and a like quantity of cinnamon.” -From this it appears there was then a recognized distinction between -the two barks. We do know that the cassia was obtained from China, but -the source of the cinnamon is unknown, unless it was obtained thru -the Chinese from Ceylon, the inhabitants of those countries being in -frequent intercourse in ancient times, for the earliest mention we have -of cinnamon as a production of Ceylon is by Kazwini, an Arab writer of -about 1275 A. D. - -[Illustration] - -That cinnamon and cassia were extremely analogus is proved by the -remark of the Greek physician Galen (130–200 A. D.): “The finest cassia -differs so little from the lowest quality of cinnamon, that the first -may be substituted for the second, provided a double quantity of it -were used.” With this brief historical sketch we will now endeavor to -point out the differences between the two barks. - -In the first place the word “cinnamon” refers solely to the cinnamon -zeylanicium plant of Ceylon, where it is found growing wild, and was -first brot under cultivation by De Koke in 1770. Here again, as with -cloves, mace, etc., the Dutch tried to monopolize the trade. The giving -away of a plant was punishable by flogging and the destruction of a -plant involved the penalty of death. The tree grows to the height of -20 or 30 ft., having a trunk 12 to 18 inches in diameter; the leaves -are of a thick leathery texture, 4 to 6 inches long, very smooth and -shining on the upper surface, glaucous with prominent netted veins -on the under side, and are traversed by 3 or 5 ribs. The flowers are -greenish-white and appear in clusters of threes. The fruit is an -oval berry, not unlike an acorn in shape and color. The tree flowers -in January and the fruit ripens in August. When the branches are -peeled the finest sticks are said to be derived from the liber of the -middle-sized branches, an inferior sort from the younger shoots, and -that which is procured from the thickest branches is considered of -little worth. The peeling commences in May and lasts until November. -The shoots or branches, usually about ½-inch to ¾-inch in diameter -and from 3 to 5 ft. long, are cut off with a curved pruning knife, -tied up in bundles and carried to the peeling sheds. The bark is -removed with a small, round-pointed knife, with a small projecting rib -or cutter placed at right angles to the edge of the knife. With this -knife the bark is split lengthwise of the stock. It is then carefully -loosened from the wood for a short distance on either side of the -slit. A similar incision is made on the opposite side and the bark is -finally removed. The bark is then put in piles, covered with scrapings -and matting and left for about two days, during which time a sort of -fermentation takes place, which greatly facilitates the separation -of the outer part of the bark from the cuticle and epidermis, which -is carefully done by scraping with a small, curved knife, having a -slightly serrated edge. This process is called piping. The piper sorts -the bark as he scrapes it. He selects a slip suitable for the outer -layer, about 3 ft. long, and packs within it 6 or 8 other pieces, all -about the thickness of vellum paper--a mark which always distinguishes -Ceylon cinnamon from cassia. They are then rolled up together and -exposed to the sun to dry. It now resembles a tight roll of paper, -the best quality being firm and compact, of a golden yellow color, -smooth on both outer and inner surfaces. The cheaper grades are not so -carefully made, having many short pieces in the pipes or quills and not -so much attention is paid to obtain uniform size and color. At Colombo -it is sorted into three kinds by government inspectors. The two finest -kinds are exported, the third with the broken pieces being reserved for -obtaining oil of cinnamon. It is formed in bales about 90 lbs. each and -wrapped in double cloths made of hemp, and not, as stated by some, of -the cocoa tree. - -Guava bark, soaked in the water left after the distillation of -cinnamon oil and rubbed over with cinnamon oil, is sometimes placed -inside good cinnamon quills and then it takes a man of Solomon’s wisdom -to detect the fraud. - - -Cassia - -Cassia, under the name of Kwei, is mentioned in the earliest Chinese -herbal--that of the Emperor Shena-ming, who reigned about 2700 B. C.; -in the ancient Chinese classics, and in Rh-ya an herbal dating from -1200 B. C. In the Hai-yao-pen-ts’ao, written in the eighth century, -mention is made of Tien-chu Kwei. Tien-chu is the ancient name for -India, perhaps the allusion may be to the cassia bark of Malabar. In -connection with these extremely early references to the spice, it may -be stated that a bark supposed to be cassia is mentioned as imported -into Egypt together with gold, ivory, frankincense, precious woods -and apes, in the 17th century B. C. The accounts given by Dioscondes, -Ptolemy and the author of the Periphes of the Erythrean Sea, that -cinnamon and cassia were obtained from Arabia and eastern Africa; and -we further know that the importers were Phoenicians who traded by Egypt -and the Red Sea with Arabia, and it was imported hither from southern -China. - -Cassia, according to Marshall and others, is the bark of the old -branches and trunks of the cinnamon zeylanicium, while others assert -that it is the bark of an entirely different species, namely, cinnamon -cassia, a native of China, but also grown in Java. This view is the -more probable, as no cassia is exported from Ceylon, it almost all -coming from Canton. Regents have also very different effects on the -infusion and oil of these two barks, which conclusively shows that -they are obtained from different species. Cassia comes in bales, 2 to -4 lbs., bound by strips from the bark of some other tree. The pipes or -quills are thicker and rolled once or twice, and never contain thinner -pieces within; the diameter of the bark is much thicker, harder, and -not as carefully scraped. The color is a deeper browinsh-fawn color. -The taste is more acridly aromatic, pungent sweet, at the same time -more powerfully astringent yet muclignious. Cassia is often substituted -for cinnamon. It is adulterated with cassia lignea, the bark of a -degenerate variety of cinnamon zeylanicium growing in Malabar, Penang -and Silhet. - -Other varieties of cassia are: Saigon cassia, the bark of an unknown -species which appeared in commerce about 1875. The outer bark is not -removed, has a gray or grayish-brown color, is covered externally with -whitish blotches, warts or wrinkles. - -C. Aromaticum is believed to be the cinnamon of China and Cochin China, -growing in the provinces of Kwantung and Kwangsi. The leaves are very -much larger than the Ceylon tree, hang down from the stalks and have -never more than three ribs. This is the species that yields the cassia -buds. - -C. Tamala is a native of India, wild in Derwanee and Gongachora. It -is cultivated in the gardens of Rungpoor. The dried leaves have an -aromatic taste. - -C. Loureirii grows in the lofty mountains of Cochin China, to the -west towards Laos, Japan. The flowers of cassia are produced by this -species. The old and young branches are worthless, but the middle-sized -shoots produce a bark that is superior to that of Ceylon. None of it is -exported. - -C. Culilawan is a native of Amboyna. The bark when dry is aromatic -like cloves, but less pungent and sweeter. It is used by the natives of -Amboyna as an internal medicine and as a stimulating linament. - -C. Rubrium grows in Cochin China, and contains an essential oil, -smelling of cloves, but not so agreeable. - -C. Sintoc is a tree about 80 ft. high, growing in the Neilgherry -mountains, India, and the higher mountains of Java. The bark is of the -same quality as the Amboyna cassia, but not so agreeable. It is more -bitter and powdery when chewed. - -C. Xanthaneuron is a native of the Papuan islands and the Moluccas. The -bark when fresh is very fragrant, but it soon loses its quality. - -C. Nitidum is a native of India. It is a shrub or small tree. - -C. Javanicum grows in Java and Borneo. It is a tree of about 20 to 30 -ft. high. The dried bark is of a deep cinnamon brown color; more bitter -than the Ceylon cinnamon, and the leaves when rubbed have a sharp -aromatic odor. - -Cinnamon of the Ceylon type is cultivated in Guyana, the Isle of -St. Vincent, Cape de Verde, Brazil, the Isle of France, Pondicheny, -Guadaloupe and elsewhere. There is, however, no probability that the -tree will succeed as an article of commerce that has not the hot, damp -insular climate and bright light of Ceylon. - -The barks of all these different species, including that of Ceylon, are -classed as “cinnamon” in the pharmacopias of Austria, Germany, Hungary, -Russia, the United States, France, Spain, Denmark and Switzerland, -while in the United Kingdom cinnamon must be the bark of the Ceylon -plant C. zeylanicium; the others being classed as cassia. - - -Oil of Cinnamon - -Oil of cinnamon is made from the pieces and chips of the bark, it is -of a red-yellowish color. Eighty pounds of bark yields about 8 ozs. -of oil. It is very stimulating. It is often adulterated with oil of -cassia, oil of cassia buds, oil of cherry laurel, and oil of bitter -almonds--the latter is a very dangerous mixture. - -Cinnamon leaves yield an oil resembling oil of cloves, with which it is -often mixed. - -The ripe berries of the cinnamon tree yield a volatile oil, similar to -oil of juniper, and from the root is obtained camphor. - -Cassia oil is obtained from the leaves, buds, or bark. It is of a -golden-yellow color, but turns brown with age. It is considered good -for influenza. - -Cassia buds resemble nails with heads of different size and shape, -according to the period of growth when collected. - -There is also a kind of wild cinnamon, or cassia, which grows in Cuba, -but its taste resembles more that of cloves than of cinnamon. - - - - -CLOVES - -Interesting History With Illustration Showing Flower, Bud and -Fruit--Where Grown and Commercial Uses - - -Cloves are dried, unopened calyces or flower buds of the clove tree, -Caryophyllus aromaticus, a kind of myrtle, a native of the Molucca -islands. In commerce they are chiefly distinguished by their place of -growth and rank in the following order: Penang, Bencoolen, Amboyna, and -Zanzibar. In addition to these there enter into commerce as secondary -products, clove stalks and mother cloves, or the dried ripened fruit. -The bulk of these secondary products are shipped from Zanzibar. - -The clove tree is an evergreen, 15 to 30 ft. high. It has a thin -smooth bark and adheres closely to the wood, which is a gray color -and of little use. The leaves are 3 to 5 in. long. The upper side and -foot-stalk is red, shading to a dark color, while the under surface -is green. The flowers grow in small bunches at the extremities of the -boughs, very like the flower-buds of the lilac tree, and all are of a -delicate purplish color. The calyx is long and forms the seed sack. -As the blossoms fade the calyx changes color from yellow to red. If -allowed to remain on the tree after this the calyx swells like that of -the rose. In this state it loses its pungent properties and is called -mother clove, and is practically of no value as a choice spice. The -cultivated trees are kept pruned to about 8 or 10 ft. in height. - -[Illustration] - -The harvesting of the flower-buds commences immediately after they -assume a bright red color. Such blossoms as can be reached are plucked -by hand, while those that grow on the upper branches are beaten down -with bamboo poles and caught in clothes spread beneath the trees. They -are then dried in the shade or by hanging on hurdles over slow wood -fires--they lose about half their weight in the drying process. They -are usually finished off in the sun, which gives them a darker color. -The quicker they are dried the less the loss of aroma. Good cloves -have a strong aromatic smell, a hot, spicy taste and a light brown -or tan color. The season for harvesting is from September to March. -A 10-year-old tree yields about 20 lbs. of cloves a year, the yield -increasing up to 100 lbs. for a 20-year old tree. - -Penang cloves are from the Straits Settlements. They are large, plump -and of a bright color. Amboyna cloves are not so large as the Penang -and are of a dark brown color. Zanzibar cloves are smaller than the -Amboyna, a bright reddish color and generally very dry. Pemba cloves -are small and dark in color and mostly arrive in a damp condition, and -therefore lose weight if kept long. - -Cloves have sometimes a portion of their oil extracted, which gives -them a pale, thin, shriveled appearance, altho they may be freshened up -by rubbing with a little oil or passed off by mixing with good cloves. -Cloves that have been tampered with have a good proportion of their -heads or knobs off; altho another cause for headless cloves is that -they may have been gathered when too ripe. - -Pure oil of cloves is almost colorless, with a faint yellow tinge and -the strong smell and burning taste of cloves. When old it turns to a -reddish brown color. It has a greater specific gravity than water, in -which it will sink. - -Clove stalks and mother cloves are used in the manufacture of ground -cloves and mixed spices. In Brazil the flower-buds of the tree whose -bark furnishes cloves cassia are often used as substitutes for true -cloves. The clove tree attracts so much moisture that herbage will -not grow beneath its branches and the clove of commerce has such an -affinity to water that if placed near a vessel of water they will -absorb enuf of the moisture in a few hours to appreciably increase -their weight. It is said that dealers often take advantage of this to -increase the weight of their goods and thus enhance their profits. - -=A Little Clove History=--This spice was well known to the ancients -and is mentioned by several Chinese authors as in use under the Han -dynasty, B. C. 266 to 220, during which period it was customary for -the officers of the court to hold the spice in their mouth before -addressing the sovereign, in order that their breath might have an -agreeable odor. At this period the clove was called fowl’s tongue -spice. In 1265 A. D. the price was 12s per lb. In 1609 a ship of the -East India Co., called the Consent, brot 112,000 lbs. to England which -was sold at 5s 6d per lb. As was the case with nutmegs, the Dutch -attempted to control the business in cloves. With this object in view, -they caused all the clove trees to be destroyed except those of the -island of Amboyna. The natives of the island were compelled to rear -a certain number of plants each year and also to protect the bearing -trees. The French, however, found a number of clove trees growing wild -in the smaller island, and Poivre, French governor of Mauritius, who -obtained the plant from the island of Guebi, introduced the clove tree -into that colony in 1770. About 1800 an Arab named Harameli-ben-Selah -took some seeds and plants from Boubon to Zanzibar and commenced the -cultivation of cloves in that country. The word clove is derived -from the Latin clavus nail, Spanish clavo and French clou, owing its -nail-like appearance. - - - - -GINGER - -Used as a Spice by the Early Greeks and Romans--Plant a Native of Asia -and Grew Wild in Mexico and Africa - - -As a spice, ginger was used among the early Greeks and Romans, who -appear to have received it by way of the Red sea, inasmuch as they -considered it to be a production of southern Arabia. In the list of -imports from the Red sea into Alexandra which, in the 2nd century of -our era, were then liable to the Roman fiscal duty, ginger occurs among -other Indian spices. It appears in the tariff of duties levied at Acre -in Palestine, about 1173, in that of Barcelona in 1221, Marseilles -in 1228 and Paris 1296. It was known in England before the Norman -conquest, being frequently named in the Anglo-Saxon leech-books of the -11th century as well as in the Welsh “Physicians of Myddvai.” During -the 13th and 14th centuries, it was, next to pepper, the commonest -of spices, costing on an average 1s 7d per lb., or about the price -of a sheep. Three kinds of ginger were known to Italian merchants -about the 14th century: (1) Belledi of Baladi, an Arabic name which -applied to ginger would signify country, wild, and denotes common -ginger; (2) Columbonio, which refers to Columbuno, Kolam or Quilon, -a port in Travanore, frequently referred to in the middle ages; (3) -Micchino, which denotes brot from or by way of Mecca. Marco Polo saw -it in India and China, 1230–1239. John of Montecorvino, a missionary -friar, who visited India in 1290, gives a description of the plant and -refers to the root being dug up and transplanted. Nicolo de Conti, a -Venetian merchant, early in the 15th century describes the plant and -a collection of roots he saw in India. The Venetians received it by -way of Egypt, and superior kinds from India overland by the Black sea. -Ginger was introduced into America by Francisco de Mondoca, who took -it from the East Indies to New Spain. It was shipped for commercial -purposes from the islands of St. Domingo in 1585, and from Barbadoes in -1654. - -[Illustration] - -Ginger is the dried, knotty fibrous rhizomes or tubers--“races” or -“hands” as they are called from their irregular, palmate form--of the -ginger plant (zinziber officinale) the real roots being the thin fibers -that branch off from the rhizomes. - -The plant is a native of Asia, but also found growing wild in Mexico -and East Africa. It is a reed-like biennial plant, not unlike the iris -or flag in appearance. The leaves are long, similar to those of maize, -growing alternate on a stem 3 to 4 ft. high. The flowers are borne on a -separate stem, 6 to 12 in. high; they are yellow or blue, according to -the quality of the soil in which they have been grown. The plant which -produces the yellow flower and best ginger is grown on rich, deep, -virgin soil; the other comes from poorer ground. Ginger is propagated -by pieces of the rhizome being planted in March. The flowers appear -about September, after they have withered and seeded. The roots are dug -up about January. When left too long in the ground, the rhizomes become -very fibrous, if taken up too soon they are tender and succulent, so -much so that they cannot be made sufficiently dry to render them fit -for export in the usual commercial form. They are therefore preserved -in sugar. The rhizomes, besides being classed as “yellow” or “blue,” -are also divided into “plant,” (being the rhizomes from plants of the -same season’s growth), and “ratoon” which are rhizomes left in the -ground from the previous harvest. - -Ginger is known in commerce in two distinct forms, termed respectively -as coated or uncoated ginger,--as having or wanting the epidermis. For -the coated ginger, the races of hands, after being dug up, are thoroly -washed to free them from all the adhering earth. They are then laid -on a canvas or cement floor, outdoors, to dry by the heat of the sun. -At night they are taken indoors. It takes from 6 to 8 days to thoroly -dry them. They are then ready for shipment. In damp weather they are -artificially dried by an evaporator. In this form ginger presents a -brown, more or less wrinkled or straited, surface, and when broken -up shows a dark brownish fracture, hard, and sometimes horney and -resinous. For the uncoated ginger the fresh-dug rhizomes, after being -washed, are soaked in water for some time and then peeled or scraped--a -most delicate operation requiring the hand of an expert. Owing to the -peculiar formation of the races, no machine has yet been invented that -will do the work satisfactorily. The outer rind or skin is deftly taken -off by means of a common knife, so as not to injure the inner root, as -a loss of the pungent volatile oil, to which ginger owes its value, -would follow and thus impair its commercial worth. After being peeled -the races are soaked in water over night. In the morning they are again -washed, cleaned and weighed, and then dried in the same manner as -coated ginger. - -It requires 3 lbs. of green root to make 1 lb. of dry root. The purer -the water the whiter the ginger. Sometimes lime juice is added to the -wash water, which gives a whiter root, but as lime juice contains -sugar, it prevents thoro drying and mildew follows. Ginger is often -subjected to a system of bleaching, or by immersion for a short time in -a solution of chlorinated lime. The white-washed appearance which much -of the ginger has is due to the fact of its being washed in whiting and -water or even coated with sulphate of lime. Uncoated ginger varies from -single joints an inch or less to flattish, irregularly branched pieces -of several joints, the races of hands, and from 3 to 4 in. long. Each -race has a depression on the summit showing the former attachment of -a leafy stem. The color, when not white-washed, is a pale buff. It is -somewhat rough, breaking with a short, mealy fracture, and presenting -on the surface of the broken parts numerous short or bristly fibers. - -The best ginger grown comes from Jamaica. It is of a superior strength, -fine flavor and a light, handsome color. A peculiar trade custom -prevails in Jamaica with regard to ginger, which is not sold by weight -or measure but by the “heap,” and the size of the heap governs the -price and is an indication, to a certain extent, of the quality and -quantity of the crop. If the heap is small, the price is high; if the -heap is large, then the price is lower. If the races or hands, are -finely shaped and large, there are fewer in the heap; if small, dark -and mealy, the heap is made larger. - -The next best quality is Borneo or Cochin ginger, which closely -resembles in appearance the Jamaica. It is not, however, so carefully -prepared. - -African ginger, also termed Bombay or Calcutta, from the ports of -shipment, is darker in color, has a coarser appearance, a harsher -flavor and inferior aroma to either of the above, but contains a -greater amount of oleoresin than they do and is very pungent. It is -largely used for making ginger beer, essences, extracts, etc. - -Leaf ginger is ginger that has been sliced into thin flakes. - -Green ginger root, is that which has not undergone any process of -cleaning beyond freeing it from the earth adhering. Imported in casks -and used by wine makers, preservers, etc. - -Spent-ginger is whole ginger that has once been used, then fixed up to -resemble good ginger and sold whole or ground. It does not possess a -single one of the valuable properties of genuine ginger. - -China ginger is not imported in a dried state, the rhizomes being too -tender and succulent to thoroly dry for export. It is preserved or -candied. For preserving, the rhizomes are first scalded, then washed -in cold water and peeled, then boiled in pans for 2 or 3 hours; then -transferred to copper pans and boiled for 2 hours in a mixture of -sugar and water--just sufficient water to cover the roots, 5 lbs. of -sugar to 10 lbs. of ginger, the roots having been pierced with a sharp -instrument to enable the sugar to soak into them. After boiling the -ginger is put into large jars and stands for several days, when it is -again boiled in sugar and water in the same quantities. After it has -become cold it is packed in jars or tins for export. To crystallize, -the same process is gone thru, only in the final boiling it is boiled -until the sugar become dry. - -The Chinese season for preserving ginger is from July to October. It -is nearly all prepared in Canton and Hongkong. A kind known as Ng Mai -Keunig is preserved in Swaton, from Alpina galanga, but it is not like -the Canton or Hankou ginger and is only made for native consumption, -to be used medicinally or for cooking. Some of it goes to the Straits -Settlement, but none to Hongkong. Jamaica preserved ginger is mostly -put up in glass bottles. The uses of ginger are too well known to need -repeating. - - - - -MUSTARD - -Well Known to the Ancients, but More in a Medicinal Way--How Cultivated -and Prepared for Commercial Uses - - -Mustard was well known to the ancients, but more in a medicinal way -than dietetic. From an edict of Diocletian, 30 A. D., in which it -is mentioned along with alimentary substances, we must suppose it -was then regarded as a condiment, at least in the eastern parts of -the Roman empire. In Europe, during the middle ages, mustard was a -valued accompaniment to food, especially with the salted meats which -constituted a large portion of the diet of our ancestors during -the winter. In the Welsh “Meddygon Myddrai” of the 13th century, a -paragraph is devoted to the “Virtues of Mustard.” In household accounts -of the 13th and 14th centuries, mustard is of constant occurrence; it -was then cultivated in England, but not extensively. The price of the -seed between 1285 and 1340 varied from 1s 3d to 6s 8d per quarter (21 -lbs.), but between 1347 and 1376 it was as high as 15s and 16s. In the -accounts of the Abbey of St. Germain des Pres in Paris, 800 A. D., -mustard is specially mentioned as a regular part of the revenue of the -convent lands. - -The essential oil of mustard was first noticed in 1660 by Nicolas le -Febre and more distinctly in 1732 by Boerharroe. - -The word mustard comes from the Italian, murtard, which is derived from -the Latin must-um, unfermented grape juice, with which the Italians -formerly mixed ground mustard. The Athenians called it napy; while -the Hellenistic name was sinapi, or sinapy, whence the Latin sinapi, -or sinapis, from which is derived the German word senf. Hippocrates -used mustard in medicine under the name of Vanuit. The dark seed, which -comes from Trieste, Austria, is called Trieste mustard. Spoken of by -Theophnastus, Galin and others. What is called French mustard, German -mustard, etc., is made of the dressings mixed with vinegar, garlic and -other spices and flavoring musterial. The form in which table mustard -is now sold dates from 1720, about which time Mrs. Clements, of Durham, -Eng., hit on the idea of grinding the seed in a mill and sifting the -flour from the husk. This bright yellow farina rapidly attained wide -popularity. The fame of “Durham Mustard” was spread far and wide, Mrs. -Clements traveling to London and principal cities twice a year taking -orders. - -There are two species of mustard plants from which ground mustard is -made. The sinapes alba, white or yellow mustard, and sinapes nigra, -brown or black mustard, is the mustard plant spoken of in Luke XIII, -19. They are annual herbs, three to 6 ft. high, with lyrate leaves, -yellow flowers, and slender pods, from one to four inches long, -containing a single row of roundish seeds. - -One of the peculiarities incident to the cultivation of mustard is the -fact that two crops of mustard cannot be raised on the same ground -in succession. Another variety is sinapes arvenus, or wild mustard, -called charlock and used for adulterating; the Sarepta, the black seed -of the sinapes juncea, from the East Indies, is used for the same -purpose. Sarepta is called from a city of that name in Russia, in the -government of Saratov. - -The brown or black variety is sown in January and the yellow or white -in March, the seed being sown broadcast and harvested in August. A -reaper is used, cutting the stalks and throwing them in bunches, where -they are left to cure until October. They are now thoroly dry and are -taken to a convenient place, spread out upon sheets of canvas and -rolled with a heavy roller. The stalks and empty pods are then raked -off, and the chaff and seeds remaining are run thru a fanning machine, -after which process they are ready to sack and market. - -There are two processes in use in making ground mustard. In the first, -the seeds, white or black, or mixed, are ground to powder and then -put thru an elaborate course of siftings. The product left after the -first sifting is called “dressings” and that which passes thru is pure -mustard flour. This mustard flour is again run thru a finer sieve, and -so on until the required fineness is obtained. From the dressings left -after the different sievings, the essential oil of mustard is expressed. - -In the other method, the oil is first extracted from the seeds by -hydraulic pressure, which leaves a sort of cake. This cake is then -broken up and pounded in a mortar. It is then sifted, that going thru -the sieve being a kind of bolted mustard flour. The remaining bran -is then mixed with an equal quantity of wheat flour, one per cent of -cayenne and sufficient turmeric to give the proper color. This is -pounded and treated as before, the process being continued until there -is no bran left. Then all the different siftings are mixed together, -giving a mixture of about equal proportions of mustard and wheat -flour, with the cayenne and turmeric added in proper quantities. - -The peculiar pungency and odor, to which mustard owes much of its -value, are due to an essential oil developed by the action of water on -two chemical substances contained in black mustard seed; one called -sinigrin and the other myrosin. The latter substance in the presence -of water acts as a sort of ferment on the sinigrin, and it is worthy -of remark that this reaction does not take place in the presence of -boiling water and, therefore, it is not proper to use very hot water -in the preparation of mustard, cold water only should be used. White -mustard seed contains in the place of sinigrin a peculiar acrid -substance called sinalbin and also a trace of myrosin, therefore, it -possesses very little pungency and it produces a larger percentage -of flour than the black. The proper blending of these two seeds is -necessary to the production of the best mustard, as the white has the -peculiar ferment within it which develops to the highest degree the -flavor of the black. - -The reason for mixing wheat flour, rice flour or other farina with -pure mustard flour is, that owing to the large amount of oil contained -in the latter it will not keep long, but turns rancid, ferments and -cakes; the added farinas by absorbing a portion of the oil retards -fermentation, decomposition and rancidity. They should not be looked -upon as adulterants, unless added in too great quantities, and the -price of the mustard should be in proportion to the added absorbents. - -A mean form of adulteration is to mix gypsum and chrome yellow with the -ground mustard seed. - -If upon the addition of a small quantity of iodine to ground -mustard it turns blue, it shows that starch is present. The ammonia -test will show the presence of turmeric. Every manufacturer has his -own particular formula, and consequently there are many different -qualities, both in the pure mustard and the compounds. One is composed -of 37 per cent brown and 50 per cent white mustard flour, 10 per cent -of rice flour, 3 per cent of black pepper, a little Chili pepper and -ginger. - -Pure mustard oil, as pressed from the seed, is not pungent and will not -blister unless mixed with water. - -The English mustard seed is the best in the world. Of this class -4,995,800 lbs. of seed and 1,307,202 lbs. of flour were imported during -the year 1908. Mustard seed and flour from Italy is known as Trieste. -In the Lompoe valley, California, some 2,500 acres are under mustard -cultivation, and a small quantity is also grown in Kentucky. - -The uses of mustard are too well known to need recapitulation. D. S. F. -means double superfine. - - - - -NUTMEG AND MACE - -Where the Nutmeg Tree Grows--Yield of Nuts and Mace and How Prepared -for the Market--Uses in Commerce - - -The nutmeg tree, known to botanists as Myristica frangrans (sweet -smelling) is a native of the Malay archipelago. The tree, which in the -Banda isles grows to the height of 50 to 60 ft., and in the Straits to -30 to 40 ft., resembles the pear tree in the shape of its leaves and -fruit. Its flowers are like those of the lily of the valley in form and -size, but are pale yellow and exceedingly fragrant. There are male and -female flowers, the nutmegs being obtained from the latter. It is only -when the tree is about 6 or 8 years old that the female tree can be -distinguished from the male, and of the latter only a few are allowed -to remain for fertilizing purposes, the rest being cut down. The nutmeg -tree continues to yield from 70 to 80 years after reaching maturity (8 -years). Each tree on an average will produce 10 lbs. of nutmegs and 1½ -lbs. of mace annually. The fruit is yellowish, edible drupe, about the -size of a peach; it splits into halves when at maturity--about 9 months -from the time of blossoming--exposing a single seed with a thin, hard -shell, surrounded by a fibrous substance of a crimson color, which, -when dried and shelled becomes the nutmeg. The young drupes, when -young and tender, are often preserved like jam and are considered the -most aromatic and delicious of conserves. Altho the nutmeg tree has -ripe fruit upon it at all seasons, there are three principal periods -of harvesting, viz: July, when the fruit is most abundant, though -it yields thin mace; November, when the mace is thicker, though the -nutmegs are smaller, and March, when both mace and nutmegs reach their -greatest perfection--but as this season is dry the production is not -great. - -[Illustration] - -The usual method of gathering in the Straits is to collect the ripe -nuts that have fallen on the ground. In the Banda islands, the fruits -are gathered in small, neatly-made, oval bamboo baskets--holding about -3 fruit--at the end of a long bamboo stick, which prevents bruising, -the baskets being opened for about half their length on one side, and -furnished with two small prongs projecting from the top, by which the -fruit stalk is broken, the fruit falling into the basket. After the -pulp--which is about ½-in. thick, whitish in color, and tough like -candied peel--has been removed the mace is stripped off by hand. The -shell of the fruit is very hard and cannot be broken without injury to -the kernel. To overcome this they are put into receptacles with fine -mesh bottoms, and dried over a slow fire--being turned from time to -time--until the kernel rattles freely in the shell, a process which -takes about 6 or 8 weeks. This also kills any weevil which may be at -work in them. They are then carefully cracked by placing them on a -sort of drumhead made of raw-hide and striking them with a board or -mallet, when the shells fly off into pieces. Great caution is needed -in shelling, for if too hard a blow be struck it makes a black spot -on the nutmeg, which affects its value considerably. After being -steeped in salt water several times and again dried they are sorted -according to size and soundness--130 to 140 to the pound are the lowest -priced, 75 to 80 the highest, and larger nuts are sold at special -prices. The sorting is done by hand, and nothing but sound, perfect -nuts are supposed to be shipped. The broken and wormy ones are used in -manufacturing “nutmeg butter,” or, as it is commonly but erroneously -called, “mace oil.” They are now limed. There are two methods of liming -in vogue--the dry and the wet. In the dry process, the nuts have dry -lime powder rubbed over them, either by hand or shaking in barrels. -In the wet process, the nuts are put into newly-slacked lime and then -spread out to dry, or they are dipped into a kind of lime-pickle, thick -as syrup, made of calcined-shells and salt water. After being covered -with this mixture they are dried. The process of liming originated with -the Dutch, with a view to preventing the germinating of the seeds, for -which purpose they were formerly immersed for three months in milk of -lime. Again it is claimed that liming preserves the nuts against the -attacks of maggots and a particular kind or beetle by stopping up their -breathing and chewing apparatus. A preference is still manifested for -limed nutmegs. - -As nutmegs are now seldom shipped by sailing vessels, but by steamers, -thus saving the long-time voyage, there is no reason why they should -not come unlimed, and then the differences in their natural complexions -and range of variations would become familiar and easily recognized. -The liming process hides many imperfect or corky nuts; nuts which have -been riddled with worm holes are “stopped” with a paste made of flour, -oil and nutmeg powder and then mixed with the sound ones. Occasionally -this paste is moulded into false nutmegs. Besides this, nutmegs are -frequently robbed of part of their essential oil by distillation in -alcohol--a process called “sweating”--and yet sold as entire nuts. A -small quantity of boracic acid will accomplish the same purpose as -lime, and Paris white and barytes will serve to mask the identity as -well as the defects. A good nutmeg should have no worm-holes, be full -of oil and cut firm like a piece of wood, and if a pin is thrust into -one the oil should ooze out on its being withdrawn. - -The Penang nutmegs, which are generally not limed, are considered the -best, altho some prefer the Banda or Batavia, and after these the -Singapore. There is also a demand for an elliptical-shaped nutmeg of -rank flavor, first called long nutmegs, but now known as Macassars. -Another kind of nutmeg from New Guinea, and known in Germany as “horse -nutmeg,” is from the species Myristica Argentea. It is of a long and -narrow shape. In these the arellus or mace furrows are less marked and -their odor is not so delicate as that of the true nutmeg. - -There are many kinds of wild or inferior nutmegs, such as: American -Jamaica, or calabash nutmeg (M. monodora), of the custard-apple family, -bearing a large pulpy fruit containing aromatic seeds. Brazilian nutmeg -(cryptocarya moschata) a tree of the laurel family, producing nutmegs -of an inferior quality. The nut is longer than the true species and -is sold under the name of long nutmeg. California nutmeg, a tree of -the pine family, called also stinking nutmeg or stinking yew, from the -disagreeable odor of the leaves and wood when bruised and burned, and -yielding a fruit resembling true nutmegs. Clove nutmeg, a Madagascar -tree of the laurel family, the fruit a pungent kernel resembling the -true nutmeg and used as a spice. Peruvian nutmeg, a large tree of the -monimiad family, yielding an aromatic fruit. From Borneo a wild, soapy -nutmeg and mace (M. fatua) are often palmed off as the true kinds. -There is also the Sante Fe nutmeg (Motoba) from Columbia, S. A., and -Ackaway nutmeg, a spice grown in Guiana, the fruit of Acrodiclidum -camard. Another species, the M. sebefira, is a common tree in the -forests of Guiana, north Brazil, and up into Panama. It is utilized -principally for the oil extracted from the nuts, obtained by macerating -them in water, the oil rising to the surface, and as it cools skimmed -off. Ackawi nutmegs, used mainly as a cure for diarrahoea and colic. -All these, while resembling somewhat the true nutmegs and sometimes -foisted on dealers, are of very little real value. - - -Mace - -When the mace, a bright-red membraneous substance, is removed from -the nut it is pressed flat between blocks of wood and left to dry -until it has acquired the right color. The preparation of mace for -the market requires experience rather than technical knowledge. If -packed too green it is liable to mold, and is subject to attacks from -insects, which render it valueless in commerce. On the other hand, if -it becomes too dry it loses its vitality and also crumbles into powder -when packed. Packers frequently sprinkle the mace with salt water, -which makes it more pliable and at the same time prevents attacks from -insects. - -[Illustration] - -We may here state that nutmegs are divided into two varieties: The -green, which are long and in which the mace only partially covers the -nut; is darker in color and inferior in flavor and aroma; and the -Royal, which furnishes the finest and best mace, firm, thick, flexible -and oily, and entirely envelopes the nut. - -As with the nutmeg, mace is sometimes deprived of its essential -oil, and mixed with wild mace or other flavorless matter. Myristica -Malabarica, known under the name of Bombay mace, used to adulterate -the true powdered mace, is much larger and more cylindrical than the -arillus of the true nutmeg and has several flaps united at the apex, -forming a conical structure. - -=Products=--Candied nutmeg and mace, nutmeg fruits in vinegar or salt, -preserved nutmeg fruits, and nutmeg or mace essence made from the -essential oil of nutmegs (not mace) and rectified spirits. An essence -of mace is also made from 6 oz. mace and 2 pints cologne spirit, -macerated for a couple of weeks, expressed and filtered thru paper. -“Nutmeg butter”, “butter of nutmeg,” or mace, “concrete oil of nutmeg,” -or “expressed oil of mace,” as it is variously called, is obtained by -subjecting the nutmeg or mace to a great heat and then squeezing or -pressing it in heavy presses. This substance is of a green color of the -consistency of tallow and of a pleasant smell. A pound of nutmegs will -make 3 ozs. of this oil, but a transparent volatile oil is obtained -by distillation. It evaporates rapidly on exposure to air. When cold -it becomes somewhat spongy and has a marbled or mottled appearance. -It becomes hard with age and is exported in small bricks, 10 in. by -2½ in., wrapped in palm leaves. It is known under several names, as -nutmeg butter, balsam of nutmeg, concrete oil or the mace oil of -commerce, and as Banda soap, sometimes made from the distilled nutmeg -leaves, counterfeited by using a foreign fatty substance as palm oil, -nut, wax and animal fat, boiled with powdered nutmeg and flavored with -sassafras, which gives it the right color and flavor. - -=Uses=--Nutmegs, besides their use as a spice or condiment, are used to -relieve sleeplessness when opium fails and chloral is not advisable. -For diarrhoea, half a drachm in milk is an effective cure. Butter of -mace is used as a liniment and embrocation for rheumatism and is also a -favorite medicine for low stages of fever with Hindoo doctors. - -For ground nutmeg, all the faulty, broken, moldy, worm-eaten and wild -nutmegs are often used. - -A little of the history of mace and nutmegs: It has generally been -believed that neither the nutmeg or mace were known to the ancients. -Nutmegs and mace were imported from India at an early date by the -Arabians, and thus passed into western countries. Masudi, who appears -to have visited England in 916–920 A. D., pointed out that the nutmeg, -like cloves, arcca nut and sandalwood, was a product of the eastern -isles of the Indian archipelago. The Arabian geographer, Edrisi, who -wrote in the middle of the 12th century, mentions both nutmeg and mace -as articles of import into Aden. They are also among the articles on -which duty was levied at Acre in 1180. About a century later another -Arabian author, Kozwim, expressly named the Moluccas as the native -country of the spices under notice. One of the earliest references -to them in Europe occurs in a poem about 1195, by Petrus D’Ebulo, -describing the entry into Rome of the Emperor Henry VI, previous to his -coronation in 1191. By the end of the 12th century both nutmeg and mace -were found in northern Europe, even in Denmark, as may be inferred from -the allusions to them in the writings of Harpestring. In England, mace, -though well known, was a very costly article, its value between 1284 -and 1377 being about 4s 7d per lb., while the average price of a sheep -during the same period was about 1s 5d, and of a cow 9s 5d. It was also -dear in France, for in the will of Jeanne d’Evreux, queen of France, in -1372, 6 ozs. of mace were appraised at the rate of 8s 3d per lb. In the -middle of the 18th century, the Dutch, with the object of monopolizing -the trade in nutmegs, destroyed all the trees in all the Moluccas -islands, excepting Banda. Nature did not, however, sympathize with such -meanness. The nutmeg pigeon, found in all the Indian islands, did for -the world what the Dutch had determined should not be done--carried -the nuts, which are their food, into all the surrounding countries, -and trees grew again and the world had the benefit. In order to keep -up the price, the surplus stock was burned up each year by certain -unscrupulous men, as is proposed to do at the present day with the -surplus stock of Brazilian coffee. In 1760, they burned at Amsterdam -three such immense piles of nutmegs and cloves that one writer says: -“Each of which was as big as a church.” - -This account of nutmeg would not be complete without “Connecticut -Nutmegs.” Some 90 years ago Frederick Accum startled England with his -book “Adulteration of Food and Culinary Poison,” and a sort of pure -food hysteria passed thru the country similar to that caused by the -boric acid investigation here. But he was eclipsed by a person who -declared that the makers of wooden shoe-pegs in Connecticut were making -oats and nutmegs from the discarded wood of sawmills. He asserted they -were not only made, but used as food thruout the country. Thus was -Connecticut christened the Nutmeg State, a name which it has retained -even unto this day. - - - - -PEPPER - -White and Black Varieties and Why--How the Plant Is Cultivated and -Where--History the Grocer Should Know to Judge Qualities - - -Pepper is a commodity to be found in every grocery store, but how many -grocers know that the pepper plant--Piper nigrum--which produces the -white and black pepper of commerce, is a climbing vine-like shrub, -found growing wild in the forests of Travanscore and Malabar coast -of India? It is extensively cultivated in southwest India, whence it -has been introduced into Java, Borneo, the Malay peninsula, Siam, the -Philippines and the West Indies. - -Pepper in the time of Alexander the Great was considered an extremely -choice article and, like gold and precious stones, was for many -generations found only on royal tables. During the Middle Ages, it was -used as money in payment of tolls, etc., hence the custom of “pepper -corn” rentals, i. e., a nominal rental or perpetual lease; and its high -price is said to have been one of the causes which led the Portuguese -to seek a sea passage to India. - -The pepper plant grows naturally to 20 ft. in height, but is cultivated -on trellises or poles, about 10 or 12 ft. high and is propagated by -cuttings or suckers. It has a soft stem, the leaves are 4 to 6 in. -long, tough, glossy, broadly ovate, with 5 to 7 nerves, and grow -opposite and alternate to a pendulous spike 5 to 8 in. long, having 20 -to 50 white flowers that ripen into a one-seeded fruit with a fleshy -exterior. This fleshy berry, covering a soft stone, is about the -size of a pea and is at first green, but in ripening turns red, which -gradually darkens to a deep chocolate shade. The vine begins to bear -when 3 or 4 years old and continues bearing for the next 10 or 15 -years. It is in perfection at its eighth year. - -[Illustration] - -There are two crops a year--July and December--which yield 5 to 6 lbs. -of dried pepper each for a single vine. When the berries are ripe the -stalk is pinched off by hand and placed in an oblong cane basket, -slung horizontally behind the plucker by a rope around his waist. The -rounded ends of the basket extend a little on either side, so that the -basket can be easily filled by either hand of the workman. The berries -are rubbed off the spikes by hand and placed on mats or on the bare -ground, to dry in the sun, when the weather is fair. In damp or cloudy -weather they are placed in shallow, open baskets before a gentle fire. -If the berries are left too long on the vines they lose part of their -aromatic, pungent hot taste, and if gathered too soon they become -broken and dusty in drying. After drying, when they become black and -shriveled up, they are cleaned and winnowed. Good black pepper is -firm and not too deeply wrinkled, does not easily crumble or break -in the hand, it is also heavy and readily sinks in water. The inner -seed should be hard, round and smooth and of a grayish-brown color. -The outside pericarp should be brownish-black. A yellow tinge betrays -over-ripeness and consequent loss of strength. A reprehensible practice -among some dealers to hide defective peppers is to artificially -blacken them and polish with oil. The usual method of judging quality -is by weight, the grades technically being known as heavy, or shot, -half-heavy and light peppers or corns. A one-litre measure may be -filled with the pepper and the contents weighed, or 100 corns of -average size counted and their weight ascertained. The variations of -peppers of different qualities, according to their habitat, are given -in the following table: - - Weight - Variety-- per litre - - Singapore 476 grams - Tellicherry 548 ” - Lampong 511 ” - Mangalore 574 ” - Malabar 570 ” - Acheen 407 ” - -It is evident that the moisture present in the corns plays an important -part in the determination of the weight, and it will be necessary to -bring the peppers up to the stated water content by either drying them -or placing them in a moist atmosphere, or first weigh them dry and -weigh again. A slight variation, however, from the figures given, is -unavoidable. - -Singapore Pepper--The principal part of this import is the product -of Sumatra, Borneo and Siam, collected at Singapore. A considerable -quantity, however, is the products of the Straits Settlements -themselves. It is of large size and of a fairly uniform quality, but as -pepper powder it is not much esteemed, owing to the manner of drying, -giving it a smoky flavor that buyers can distinguish Singapore pepper -from peppers grown elsewhere. - -Tellicherry and Alleppey are much alike in appearance, both being light -brown in color. They too, like the Malabar peppers, are sun-dried. -Mangalore (India) pepper is heavy, large, of a deep black color, very -clean, and of uniform size. When powdered it is of a greenish-black -appearance. - -The pepper shipped from Penang is called Irang pepper and is grown in -Sumatra. From the east end of the same island comes the Lampong pepper, -but this lacks uniformity, and is light in color. It is also sun-dried. -Long pepper is the fruit spike of Chivaci Roxburgh, a native of Malabar -and Chavica officinarum, a native of the India archipelago; they are -both climbing plants. The first pods, or catkins, about 1½ in. long, -grow nearly straight, and opposite the leaves. They are gathered before -they are ripe and dried in the sun, when they become brown or dark -green in color and rough to the touch. They lack the pungency of the -black variety. The long pepper plant dies at the end of 3 years, and -after the fruit is collected the vine dies down to the ground. The -fruit grows so close together on the spike that when ripe they become -one solid mass. There is also a variety of long pepper called elephant -pepper. Long peppers are mostly used for pickles. A medium, called -Pippua moola, is made from the roots and stems; it is very stimulating. - -Cubeb peppers are the berries of the vine Cubeb officinalis, a product -of Java, Borneo and Sumatra, but mostly imported by way of Batavia -and Canton. They are of a gray color, about the size of black pepper, -somewhat longer, more wrinkled and with a short slender stalk. They -have a hot, camphor taste. Another kind is distinguished by a mace-like -odor and taste. Cubebs are now mostly used as a medicine. - -Ashantee or West African pepper is the dried berry of a pepper plant -which grows in tropical Africa. It is smoother and smaller than -the black pepper and resembles the Cubeb very closely. In taste it -resembles the ordinary black pepper. At one time its importation was -forbidden by the king of Portugal, as it threatened to interfere with -the commerce of India. - -Betel pepper is the berry of Chavica betel, a species of climbing vine -largely cultivated in the East Indies, Ceylon, Burma, Siam, etc. It -furnishes the leaves which are used along with arecanut and other -ingredients to compose the favorite stimulant chewing mixture of the -people of India. - -White pepper is from the same plant as black pepper, with the -difference, that to make white pepper the pepper corns are not picked -until fully ripe; they are then soaked in water for 7 or 8 days, or -heaped up so that the pulp ferments, then they are rubbed by hand, or -on a coarse cloth, if the quantity be small, or trampled under foot -if the quantity be large; this operation deprives them of the pulpy -skin or husk, and the greenish-white seeds which remain are the white -peppers of commerce; then they are re-dried, either in the sun or by -artificial heat. White pepper is bleached whiter by a chemical process. -If the berries be left on the vines until over-ripe they lose their -pulpy husk by natural decay and thus become actually white pepper, -altho in reality they are the kernels of black pepper. - -Singapore white are berries cultivated in the neighboring islands and -the husks are removed at Singapore by hand and friction before the -berries are fully dried. Penang white is really grown at Sumatra, but -imported into Penang in a dried state. There the berries are soaked in -lime and water for several weeks, until the pulp is soft, when it is -rubbed off by hand and washing; the berries are then re-dried. - -Siam white are berries prepared in the same manner as Singapore white, -from berries grown in Siam. - -The dried black peppers, as imported, are also decorticated or deprived -of their husks by machinery, the result being white pepper, which is -sometimes bleached. - -The active properties of pepper are an acrid resin, a volatile oil, -and a crystallizable, colorless substance called pipertine, or peperic. -Why white pepper should be preferred before the black is one of the -anomalies of the trade. White pepper has really only about a quarter -the strength of black pepper, and is the least economical to use for -these reasons: (1) Because of being allowed to ripen it loses much -of its pungency. (2) Because it is deprived of the outer skin or -husk, which contains much of the constituents which go to make good -pepper. (3) Because it contains scarcely a trace of piperin, one of -the most active principles of pepper. Pepper rapidly deteriorates -under atmospheric influences, and large stocks should not be carried -unless provisions are made for storing it in air-tight receptacles, -for, unless this precaution is taken, the goods in a few months will -have lost their pungency, which is an essential characteristic of good -pepper. - -Pepper is a stimulant, and used in moderate quantities is an aid to -digestion. In India an infusion of it is used to create an appetite -and as a cure for gout and palsy. It is also used in cases of -cholera-morbus. A liniment is made from the berries for rheumatism, and -the root is employed as a tonic stimulant and cordial. - - - - -CUMIN, OR CUMMIN SEED - -Also Caraway, Coriander, Cardimons, Poppy, Aniseed, Saffron and -Turmeric Described. - - -Cumin, or Cummin Seed - -The aromatic fruit or seed of a plant of the genus Umbellefera. It is -referred to in Scripture (Matt. xxxiii:23). As salt was a symbol of -friendship, “shearers of salt and cummin” meant intimate friends. The -seeds are linear and flat on one side and convex or striated on the -other. Their odor and properties resemble the caraway, or anise seeds, -and they are often called bastard anise. They are used in Germany -in bread, in Holland they are frequently put into cheese. Norwegian -anchovies in kegs are frequently flavored with them, and they are -also used in making curry powder, as a carminative flavoring, and in -veterinary medicines, etc. - - -Caraway Seed - -The caraway plant has a branching stem 2 or 3 ft. high, with finely -divided leaves and dense umbels of white or pinkish white flowers. The -leaves are frequently used to flavor soup and the roots, which taper -like a parsnip, and when young are boiled and eaten as a vegetable. -The seeds are oblong, pointed at both ends, thickest in the middle, -striated on the surface and of a crescent shape, they have an aromatic -smell and warm, pungent taste. From the seeds is obtained a volatile -oil called oil of caraway, of a pale yellow color which turns dark with -age; it is frequently adulterated with oil of cumin. After the oil -has been extracted the seeds are called “drawn caraways,” and by way -of deception are often mixed with good caraway seeds. They can be told -by their shrunken, dark appearance. The color of the English caraway -seeds is a deep brown, those of Germany and Holland are larger and of a -light blue-brown color, while those from Russia, Poland and Bohemia are -small, of a blackish brown color, and mixed with a good deal of dirt. -There is a variety of a light brown color, about twice the size of the -English caraways, imported from Mogador. - -Caraway seeds and oil are used medicinally, as a flavoring by bakers -and confectioners, in compounding various liquors, particularly that -known as Kummel, and in making Scotch cavie, or caraway, comfits; for -this purpose the seeds are coated with sugar and colored red, pink, -blue, yellow, etc. - - -Coriander. - -The word “coriander” is derived from the Greek word Koriannon, a -bed-bug, referring to the disagreeable smell of the whole plant when -fresh, but the ripe and perfectly dried fruit has an agreeable smell -and a sweetish, aromatic taste. Its an annual or bi-annual plant, of -the genus Umbelliferce, native of South Europe, with a branching stem -1 or 2 ft. high. The lower leaves bipennate, the upper ones being -more compounded and divided into very narrow divisions. The fruit -is globose, containing round slightly ribbed or ridged seeds, about -as large as black pepper, very light, of a yellowish brown or straw -color externally; inside the husk of each seed are two closely fitting -hemispherical mericarps. - -The seeds are used in medicine as a carminative. They cover the taste -of senna leaves better than any other substance; are occasionally mixed -with curry powder; in domestic economy they are used by confectioners -and bakers as flavorings, being often mixed with bread in the north of -Europe. A cordial is made from them, and they are used for flavoring -spirituous liquors, particularly gin. - - -Cardamons. - -Cardamons consist of the seeds of two species of plants, the Elettaria -of Malabar and the Amomon of China, Guinea and other parts of the East -Indies. As the seeds of the two species differ in some respects we -will describe the Ellettaria kind. The plant, which grows 5 to 10 ft. -high, has a reed-like habit and bear long, loose racemes of flowers, -succeeded by triangular capsules, of a dirty white color, containing a -number of dark brown, angular seeds about the size of mustard seeds. -The capsules or fruits, which vary from ½ in. to 2 in. in length, are -collected from wild plants and also from plantations, the latter being -generally laid out in partially cleared forests in which the wild -plants are known to occur. When about 3 years old the plants begin to -bear. The capsules do not all ripen at the same time, and the harvest -lasts for nearly two months. The capsules are gathered before they are -ripe and then cured in the sun, after which the stalks and remains -of flowers are carefully removed by means of scissors. They are then -graded into “shorts,” “short-longs,” and “long-longs,” according to -their length; sometimes they are mixed and classed as lesser or greater -cardamons. Cardamon seeds are exported in the capsules in order to -prevent adulteration. The seeds have a very delicate aroma and are -slightly pungent. They were well known to the ancients, and are used -at present in medicine, particularly in veterinary practice, also in -flavoring culinary sauces, soups, curries, cordials, pastry, and for -imparting a factitious strength to vinegar, beer, wines and spirits, -especially gin; their use creates a thirst. The seeds depend for their -quality on a pungent essential oil, of which they contain about 3 per -cent, called oil of cardamons; they also contain about 10 per cent of -a fixed oil. The seeds of the “Amomum” species of cardamons are bright -black in color outside, white inside and small and angular in shape; -they are slightly aromatic, very hot and pungent. - -Cardamons are known as grains of Paradise, Melegueta pepper, Guinea -grains and Guinea pepper. - - -Poppy Seeds - -Poppy seeds are not unlike fine gunpowder in general appearance, -being very small, dark blue--nearly black in color; they are obtained -from the same plant that yields opium (Papavar somnniferium, or -white poppy.) The seeds are not narcotic, and have a sweet taste, -are oleaginous and nutritious. They are largely used in some parts -of Europe in pastry, confectionery and as a substitute for almonds. -Under the name of “Maw seeds,” they are sold as food for birds during -moulting season. Poppy seed oil is sometimes used as an adulterant in -olive oil; it is also used as an illuminant and for painting. - - -Fennel - -Fennel is a tall, stout, aromatic herb of the parsley family, with -finely dissected leaves, which are boiled and served with salmon, -mackerel, etc., as a seasoning; the flowers are yellow. A species--F. -dulce--is cultivated in Italy as celery is with us; and its -blanched stems are said to be more tender and delicate than celery, -with a slight flavor of fennel. The seeds of another species--F. -panmorium--grown in Bengal, have a warmish, very sweet taste and -aromatic smell, and are used in making betel, in curries, and also used -as a carminative. Fennel seeds resemble aniseeds in appearance and -taste, and are often sold for such; they are a little longer and of a -light brown color. The Indian seeds are the largest, the Italian and -Japanese the smallest. They are used in confectionery, cookery and are -sometimes chewed by the people of France and Germany. Fennel water is -made from the oil obtained from the seeds. - - And he who battled and subdued - A wreath of fennel wore.--Longfellow. - - -Aniseed - -Aniseed is an annual plant of the order of Umbelliferae of the parsley -family, a native of Egypt, but also extensively cultivated in Russia, -Germany, Malta and Spain. Aniseed is very similar in appearance to the -poisonous hemlock seed, for which it has sometimes been mistaken. The -seed, which is a little larger than a pin’s head, is of a greyish-green -color. They have an aromatic smell, and warm, sweetish taste, and are -used in condiments, in cookery and in the preparation of liquors, also -in medicine as a stimulative stomachic to relieve flatulence, etc., -particularly in infants. The properties of aniseed are due to a nearly -colorless or sometimes blue volatile oil. Aniseed oil with water and -sugar is much used in Italy as a cooling drink. The leaves of the -plant are sometimes used as a seasoning and for garnishing. - -Star aniseed, or China aniseed, is the fruit of a small evergreen tree -of the order Magnoliacae, somewhat resembling a laurel. It receives -its name from the star-like form of the fruit or capsule, which -consists of a number (6 to 12) of hard, woody, one-sided follicies or -carpels ending in a point, each containing a single brown, shiny seed. -Star aniseed is held in high esteem by the Japanese and is planted -near their temples, the seeds being burned as incense in the temples -and over the graves of relatives. The whole plant is carminative, -and is used by the Chinese as a stomachic and as a spice in their -cookery. The qualities of the seed and oil closely resemble those of -the common aniseed and the oil is exported to Europe for the same -purpose--flavoring liquors. - - -Saffron - -Consists of the dried stigmas of the autumn or fall crocus plant -(crocus sativus), which should not be confounded with the spring crocus -(crocus vernus), to which it is nearly allied. The crocus derives its -name from Crogeus--which is from the Greek word Krokus, yellow--the -modern Korghy in Cilicune, where it was grown in ancient times. The -word “crocodile” is derived from the Greek words Krokos, yellow, -and deilos, fearful, on the ancient supposition the animal avoided -the place where saffron grows and only sheds real tears when in the -vicinity of a crocus field, hence Fuller says: “The crocodile tears -are never true, save he is forced where saffron groweth.” The phrase, -“crocodile tears,” arose from the idea that the crocodile pretended to -cry over the victims it had devoured. Saffron was of great importance -ages ago. It is mentioned in the third chapter of Solomon’s Songs; it -was in favor among the ancient Greeks as a dye, and with both them -and the Romans as a perfume. The streets of Rome were sprinkled with -saffron when Nero made his entry into that city. In the middle ages -it was employed in cookery and as a drug, and it is on record that as -late as the fifteenth century persons were burned alive in Muremburg -for adulterating saffron. It was introduced to England in 1339 from -Tripoli by a pilgrim who had a stolen bulb in the hollow of his staff. -Its main use was to color pastry and confectionery, hence: “I must have -saffron to color the warden pies” (Shakespeare’s Winter’s Tale, act 4, -scene 1). The town of Saffron Waldron in Essex, derives its name from -the fact of its being cultivated in that neighborhood until 1768. The -cultivation of the crocus for saffron in England has entirely died out; -altho the people of Cornwall at the present day use more saffron than -all the rest of Great Britain. It is cultivated in China, Cashmere, -Persia, Asia Minor, Egypt, Austria, Hungary, Russia, Italy, France, but -the chief source of supply is Spain. - -A saffron field is not in full bearing until the end of the second -year, at the end of the third year it is exhausted, and it is said that -the soil is so poisoned that it cannot be used for any other crops for -several years. Each acre produces from 600,000 to 700,000 bulbs and -each bulb 2 or 3 flowers. About 150,000 flowers are required to produce -2 lbs. of fresh pistils, which when dried are reduced to one-fifth of -that weight. - -The small yield, the labor required, the care in culture and the -difficulty of preserving the product in a good state renders saffron -an expensive article--about 80c an ounce. On the seed-bearer of the -flower there is a thread-like hook or fork, which at its upper head -terminates in three thick, dark, orange-colored nerves or tissues; to -save and collect these tissues the flowers are gathered in the fall, -just as they are breaking, or a little before; they are plucked early -in the morning, and these little masses are then pulled out with a -considerable portion--about 1¼ in. of thread-like stem, to which they -adhere. They are then dried over little charcoal fires or in the sun. -It is this dried stigma, the trifid orange-colored tops of the central -organ of the flower, that is the saffron of commerce. The remainder of -the flower is useless. - -Saffron as it generaly comes to the trade consists of a large number -of crooked and mixed-up threads, of an orange-red color; it has a -peculiar, sharp, rooty and pungent smell, and a bitter balsam-like -taste; that of a whitish yellow or blackish color is old and inferior. -The great solubility of saffron prevents its use as a dye for -fabrics, its place being taken by aniline dyes. Its coloring power is -remarkable, a single grain rubbed to a fine powder with a little sugar -will impart a distinct tint of yellow to 10 gals, of water; soaked in -spirits or warm water it will yield three-fourths of its weight of -a deep orange yellow coloring matter, which is perfectly wholesome, -and if kept tightly corked will keep for some time. The chief uses -of saffron are for flavoring and coloring confectionery and culinary -articles; it is also used as a perfume and is given to birds during the -moulting season. Spanish saffron is divided into five grades, according -to the district in which it is cultivated. It is generally wrapped -in tinfoil and then in white tissue paper and packed in tin boxes or -strong cartons. - -On account of its high price saffron is often counterfeited or -adulterated with the petals of safflowers, African saffron, Meadow or -wild saffron, marigold, arnica, etc. It is also loaded with glycerine, -glucose, dyed vegetable filamenta, honey, sulphate of soda, barium -sulphate, etc., and exhausted saffron is sometimes re-colored with -aniline dye. The stigma of genuine saffron immediately expands on being -moistened with warm water, and its form is so characteristic that it -cannot be mistaken for the flowerets of any of its adulterates. - -Cake saffron is generally made from the dried flowers of the -safflowers--a thistle-like plant of the aster family--or the florets -of the saffron plants made into a paste with gum-water; it is used for -dying and making rouge. - - -Turmeric - -Turmeric is an East Indian plant (curcuma longa) of the ginger family, -with the same properties as ginger, only not so powerful. It is also -grown in Zanzibar, China and the Malayan archipelago. It is a stemless -plant with dark green leaves varying from 6 in. to 24 in. long and -3 in. to 6 in. wide, flowers of a dull yellow color and a tuberous -root varying in thickness from that of a quill to ½ in. in diameter -and often a foot long, with joints or ring-like swellings at short -intervals; of, a yellowish to orange color outside and sometimes -white and sometimes orange color inside. They are classed as long or -round tubes according to their shape. From the root is made a kind of -arrowroot much relished by the natives of India to color their faces. -In medicine it is used as a cordial or stomachic; as an anti-scorbutic, -and for stimulating the digestive organs. In a fresh state it is given -to expel intestinal worms and in diarrhoea. It is used in varnishes and -ointments and as a dye for silks and woolens, but it is now chiefly -employed in making Indian curries or pickles, mustard, compounds, -pudding spices, chow-chow pickles. A kind growing in Bengal, called -“Mango ginger,” from its resemblance to the mango, is used for the same -purpose as ginger. - -Turmeric paper is a bibulous paper, yellow from saturation with the -extract of turmeric, used as a test for alkalies, by which it is turned -brown or red. Turmeric is also made from the roots of the canna, a -member of the same family of plants cultivated at Sierra Leone. - -Turmeric is adulterated with yellow ocher and carbonate of soda. -Turmeric is insoluble in cold water, only partly soluble in boiling -water, but is quite soluble in alcohol, forming beautiful yellow -crystals. - - -Nasturtium - -The flower buds and fruits of the common garden nasturtium are often -used as a spice after being ground and dried; they are also pickled -like capers and used on fish, meats, etc. The name is derived from -nausa, nose, and tortus, twist, from the effects of its pungent smell -or taste. - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber’s note: - -Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made consistent when a -predominant preference was found in the original book; otherwise they -were not changed. - -Simple typographical errors were corrected; unpaired quotation -marks were remedied when the change was obvious, and otherwise left -unpaired. - -A Table of Contents was added by the Transcriber. - -Page 28: “the races of hands” probably should be “the races or hands”. - -Page 32: “musterial” probably should be “material” or “materials”. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SPICES, THEIR HISTORIES*** - - -******* This file should be named 60192-0.txt or 60192-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/0/1/9/60192 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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Fielding</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: Spices, Their Histories</p> -<p> Valuable Information for Grocers</p> -<p>Author: Robert O. Fielding</p> -<p>Release Date: August 29, 2019 [eBook #60192]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SPICES, THEIR HISTORIES***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4>E-text prepared by Turgut Dincer, Charlie Howard,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive<br /> - (<a href="https://archive.org">https://archive.org</a>)</h4> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff; max-width: 80%; margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - <a href="https://archive.org/details/spicestheirhisto00fiel"> - https://archive.org/details/spicestheirhisto00fiel</a> - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> - -<h1><span class="xlarge">SPICES</span><br /> - -<span class="subhead">THEIR HISTORIES</span></h1> - -<p class="sep p2 center large wspace">Valuable Information For Grocers</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width: 5.125em;"> -<img src="images/i_logo.png" width="82" height="104" alt="Logo" /> -</div> - -<p class="p2 center large">PRICE FIFTY CENTS</p> - -<p class="sep p2 center larger vspace">Copyrighted 1910<br /> -By THE TRADE REGISTER, Inc.<br /> -Seattle, Washington. -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - -<table id="toc" summary="Contents"> - <tr class="small"> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdr">PAGE</td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">INTRODUCTION</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">ALLSPICE OR PIMENTO</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_4">4</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">CAPSICUM</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">CINNAMON AND CASSIA</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">CLOVES</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">GINGER</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">MUSTARD</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">NUTMEG AND MACE</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">PEPPER</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">CUMIN, OR CUMMIN SEED</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="SPICES" class="notbold larger">SPICES</h2> -</div> - -<h2 id="INTRODUCTION" class="nobreak">INTRODUCTION.</h2> - -<div class="sans sep"> -<p>The history of spices, with other valuable information -to all branches of the grocery trade, was originally -written by Robert O. Fielding, of the staff of the -Trade Register, in which the several articles appeared -in various issues of that journal, duly protected by -copyright, with the accompanying illustrations.</p> - -<p>Retail grocers everywhere will find this little book -of especial value for study and reference. It is all -meat for the salesman who realizes that success in -trade these days depends upon knowing where the -goods he handles were produced, how to judge their -qualities, how they are prepared for market, and -what are their uses. How to sell, the market conditions, -etc., are continuously set forth in the weekly -issues of the Trade Register, $2 a year, by men who -have had practical experience behind the counter.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width: 28.75em;"> -<img src="images/i_p003.png" width="460" height="113" alt="Lovett M. Wood (signature)" /> -<div class="caption"><p>Editor.</p></div> -</div> - -</div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="ALLSPICE_OR_PIMENTO" class="sans">ALLSPICE OR PIMENTO<br /> - -<span class="subhead sep">A Valuable Product From Jamaica Which Combines -the Flavor of Cloves, Cinnamon and Nutmeg</span> -</h2> -</div> - -<div class="sep"></div> - -<p>Allspice is the dried unripe berries of a tree of the -myrtle family, the pimento, known botanically as -Eugenia pimenta, or Pimenta officinalis. It’s an evergreen -tree some 20 to 30 ft. high, with a slender, -straight, upright trunk, much branched at the top; -the bark is smooth, gray and aromatic; the leaves—which -when fresh abound in essential oil—are 5 in. -long, of an oblong shape and deep shiny green color; -the blossoms—which appear in July and August—are -white and fragrant; the berries (sometimes called -corns), which form on the disappearance of the -flower, are picked unripe, altho fully grown, they -are of a greenish-purple color. After picking, the -berries are dried in the sun or in kilns until dark -brown and then separated from the stalk. The dried -berries are light, brittle, of roundish form and crowned -with the remains of the flower calyx in the shape -of a raised, seared-like ring; each berry contains two -dark-brown flattish, kidney-shaped seeds. If allowed -to ripen, the berries lose their aromatic flavor and -become merely sweet and pulpy. Only in Jamaica—where -it is cultivated in plantations called Pimento -walks—does the pimento tree grow to perfection, -altho attempts are made to cultivate it in other West -India islands and South America. It is thought to -combine the flavor of cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, -hence it is called allspice.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width: 23em;"> -<img src="images/i_p005.png" width="368" height="563" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><b>Uses</b>—Its chief use is for culinary purposes. It is -a powerful irritant, good for dyspepsia, flatulency, -gout, hysteria and toothache. It is often employed -to disguise the nasty taste of medicine. Allspice -yields volatile oil by distillation, which is used as a -flavoring in alcoholic solution, is of a brownish-red, -clear appearance, and has the odor and taste of pimento, -but is warm and more pungent. A green -fixed oil has the burning aromatic taste of pimento -and is supposed to be the acrid principle. A tincture<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span> -from allspice has been praised as an application in -chilblains.</p> - -<p><b>Substitutes.</b>—The Mexican spice, called Pimento -de Tabascol is somewhat larger and less aromatic -than Jamaica pimento. The berries of Pimento acris, -(bayberry) whose leaves are used in the manufacture -of bay-rum. The Carolina allspice—calycanthus -florides, a shrub 6 or 8 ft. high, with an odor somewhat -like strawberries. Japan allspice—chimonanthus -frangrans—which grows in Japan, and wild allspice—lindera -benzoin—known also as spice-wood, -fever-wood, benjamin-bush—a member of the laurel -family growing in the United States. To secure uniformity -of color these inferior kinds are often colored -with Armenian bole, a kind of red clay from Armenia, -and they are also often mixed in ground allspice, -in addition to the stalks of the pimento. A kind of -red pimento from Salonica is also used as an adulterant. -During the civil war, when pimento was -high in price, a substitute was made up of clove-stems, -wasted rye, a little cayenne pepper, and some -cassia; this was very acceptable, altho there was not -an ounce of pimento in it.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="CAPSICUM" class="sans">CAPSICUM<br /> - -<span class="subhead sep">Cayenne Pepper Is Made from This Branch of the -Nightshade Family—Descriptions of the Various -Varieties of Capsicum—Tabasco -Pepper Sauce</span> -</h2> -</div> - -<div class="sep"></div> - -<p>The capsicum is a genus of plants of the nightshade -family (Salanacea) that grows luxuriently in -all tropical countries and many species of which are -cultivated in the temperate zone. Capsicum or Red -Pepper is of American origin for these reasons: -Fruits so conspicuous, so easily grown in gardens -and so agreeable to the palates of the inhabitants of -hot countries would have very quickly diffused thruout -the old world, if they had existed in the South -of India, as it has sometimes been supposed. They -would have had names in several ancient languages, -yet neither the Romans, Greeks nor the Hebrews were -acquainted with them. They are not mentioned in -ancient clinic books. The islands of the Pacific did -not cultivate them at the time of Cook’s voyage in -spite of the proximity of the Sunda Isle where Rumphines -mentions their very general use. The Arabian -physician, Ebn Baithar, who collected in the -13th century all that eastern nations knew about -medicinal plants, says nothing about them. Probably -the first known history of cayenne pepper in -Europe is that given by Martyr, who writes of Columbus -bringing it home in 1493 and speaks of it being -more pungent than that from Caucasus, probably -referring to the Oriental black pepper. About a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span> -century later, Gerarde writes of its being brot -into Europe from Africa and Southern Asia and being -grown in European gardens. Probably the first -record of its use is that by Dr. Chanca, who was physician -with Columbus’ fleet in 1494, and who alludes -to it as a condiment used in dressing meats, dying -and other purposes, as well as a medicine. From -the ground dried seeds and pericarp of certain varieties of capsicum -we get cayenne pepper, so-called<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span> -from Cayenne, in French Guiana, S. A., whence it -was imported by the French. Cayenne pepper is also -called Calicut and Napaul, the names of places of -export, and it was known as Guiana pepper over 300 -years ago. The derivation of the word “Capsicum” -is uncertain; it may be from Kapto, hot, on account -of its pungent taste, or from capsa, a box, or chest, -referring to the form of its fruit. The plant grows -from 1 ft. to 6 ft. high and is fairly well branched; -the flowers are white or greenish-white; the fruits -of the several species are of various forms, round, -oblong, cordate or horned, and contain a number of -flattish seeds. The seeds after the removal of the -pericarp, and then thoroly washed and dried, are -entirely devoid of acidity and pungency. The hotter -and drier the soil, the more acrid and pungent the fruit.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width: 22em;"> -<img src="images/i_p008.png" width="352" height="599" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Used in moderate quantities, capsicum or cayenne -pepper, promotes digestion and so prevents flatulence. -The natives of Brazil boil the capsicums and -dip their manioc bread in it, making a kind of fiery -soup. They are extensively used in India in compounding -curries and chutneys. In Bengal the natives -make an extract from the small capsicum chilies -of about the consistency of molasses. The bell peppers -are pleasant stuffed with meats, fish, other -vegetables, etc. The sweet and mild kinds fed to -birds are said to improve their plumage.</p> - -<p>C. Annum is the most common species and contains -a great many varieties, among them the Pimiento -(not Pimento or allspice) commonly known -as Spanish red peppers or morrons, also Paprika,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span> -or Hungarian sweet pepper. This species is never -found growing wild.</p> - -<p>C. frutesens is sometimes called goat pepper and -is generally described as the true cayenne. Its -leaves are from 3 in. to 6 in. long by 2 in. to 3½ in. -wide, the fruit is red, obtuse or oblong accumminate, -¾ to 1½ in. long and ¼ to ¾ in. in diameter. It is -very acrid and pungent. It is only cultivated in the -tropical regions, as the seasons in the temperate -climate are not long enuf to mature the fruit.</p> - -<p>C. baccatum is ovate of sub-round and about ¼ in. -in diameter. C. baccatum have been known in the -English gardens since 1731.</p> - -<p>C. facticulatum, also known as Mexican chilies, is -a shrubby plant of Sierra Leone, and grows in Zanzibar; -also known as small chilies, or red cluster -peppers. The fruit, which grows erect, is oblong -linear, not quite an inch in length and of a deep red -orange color. Another variety, which are mostly -consumed locally, have larger red and yellow fruit. -Zanzibar capsicums or chilies, are dirty looking, of -a brownish-red color and very hot. A variety from -Japan are bright red, not so pungent as the other -growths, but of finer aroma.</p> - -<p>C. ceresiforme, the fruit is spherical, sub-cordate, -oblate or occasionally pointed. The flesh is firm, -from 1-12 to ½ in. thick, and very pungent; from -the shape of its fruit it is called the cherry capsicum, -or pepper.</p> - -<p>C. grossum, originally from India, grows 2 ft. high, -with a few branches and large leaves 3 to 5 in. long, -the fruit is large, oblong or ovate, and is known as -bell pepper; it is mostly used for stuffing and pickling;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span> -the skin being thick, soft and tender and of a -mild flavor.</p> - -<p>C. abberciatum, with ovate fruit about 2 in. long. -While this variety is used to some extent for pickling, -it is cultivated more as an ornamental plant.</p> - -<p>C. longum grows to about 3 ft. high with comparatively -few branches, the fruit is often a foot long -and 2 in. in diameter. The flesh is thick and flavor -mild.</p> - -<p>C. Acumination is about 2½ ft. high. The fruit, -which is small, grows both erect and pendent.</p> - -<p>C. Conordes, with oblong linear fruit, which grows -erect, is very acrid and pungent. It is known as tabasco -capsicum or pepper. Bird pepper, bird’s-eye -chilies, red-bird pepper, etc., are commercial names -given to the mild, sweet varieties of capsicum -on account of their being fed to birds. Nepaul -pepper, commercial name for capsicum imported -from that place in India. Nepaul pepper has -an odor and flavor resembling orris root and a pod -the color of amber when dried. It is most esteemed -as a condiment, being aromatic and appetizing, and -not so acrid or biting as is most cayenne. Paprika, -commercial name for the mild, sweet varieties of -capsicum, chiefly grown in Hungary, Spain, Portugal, -Jamaica, Japan and Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>Japanese pepper is the fruit of Xanthoxylum, an -entirely different genus of plants to the capsicum -family. The fruit capsules when bruised are agreeably -pungent and aromatic. It is much esteemed as -a condiment in China and Japan.</p> - -<p>Tabasco pepper sauce originated with Mr. E. McIllhenny, -of New Iberia, La., in 1868, from a variety -of capsicum in which the fruit grows erect, and was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span> -brot by a soldier friend of Mr. McIllhenny from Tabasco -in Mexico after the close of the Mexican war.</p> - -<p>Tabasco catsup originated with Mr. George Bayle -of St. Louis, Mo. The base of it is said to be equal -proportions of powdered capsicum and essence of tomatoes.</p> - -<p>Ground cayenne pepper soon loses its bright color -when kept too long or exposed to the light, and becomes -dingy in appearance, so it is not always wise -to judge by looks alone, as red ocher, turmeric, mustard, -rice, sawdust, salt, brick dust, etc., have been -found in cayenne pepper.</p> - -<p>The large fruits or pods are commercially known -as capsicums, and the smaller ones as chilies. The -term pepper is a misnomer as applied to this spice.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="CINNAMON_AND_CASSIA" class="sans">CINNAMON AND CASSIA.<br /> - -<span class="subhead sep">The Sweet Wood of Ceylon and the Aromatic Bark -of the Present Day Often Confused With Cassia—Valuable -Trade History.</span> -</h2> -</div> - -<h3 class="sep">Cinnamon</h3> - -<p>As in the case of sago and tapioca, a good deal of -misconception prevails in regard to cinnamon and -cassia, and as with sago and tapioca, one is often -sold for the other by the uninformed. The word -“cassia,” botanically speaking, has nothing whatever -to do with the aromatic bark which we call -by that name, but refers to a genus of plants of the -bean family, from which are derived the dried senna -leaves, an infusion of which our mothers induced us -to take by the bribe of a piece of candy, altho we -had “tummy ache” for a brief space afterwards. The -word “cinnamon” is derived from two Malayan words -“cassia” from the Greek word “kasian,” which occurs -in Psalms XLV-8, and elsewhere in the Bible, where -it is supposed to refer to the aromatic bark of the -present day, was afterwards tacked on. That cassia -(the bark) was known in biblical times is well authenticated. -It is mentioned in a Chinese herbal -published in 1700 B. C. under the name kwei.</p> - -<p>The earliest mention of cinnamon is in a list of -offerings by Seleneneus Callinieus, king of Syria, and -his brother, Antiochus Hierax, to the temple of Apollo -at Miletus, 243 B. C. Among the gifts mentioned -are: “2 lbs. of cassia and a like quantity of cinnamon.” -From this it appears there was then a recognized<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span> -distinction between the two barks. We do -know that the cassia was obtained from China, but -the source of the cinnamon is unknown, unless it -was obtained thru the Chinese from Ceylon, the inhabitants -of those countries being in frequent intercourse -in ancient times, for the earliest mention we -have of cinnamon as a production of Ceylon is by -Kazwini, an Arab writer of about 1275 A. D.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width: 23.0625em;"> -<img src="images/i_p014.png" width="369" height="568" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>That cinnamon and cassia were extremely analogus<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span> -is proved by the remark of the Greek physician -Galen (130–200 A. D.): “The finest cassia differs -so little from the lowest quality of cinnamon, that -the first may be substituted for the second, provided -a double quantity of it were used.” With this -brief historical sketch we will now endeavor to -point out the differences between the two barks.</p> - -<p>In the first place the word “cinnamon” refers solely -to the cinnamon zeylanicium plant of Ceylon, -where it is found growing wild, and was first brot -under cultivation by De Koke in 1770. Here again, -as with cloves, mace, etc., the Dutch tried to monopolize -the trade. The giving away of a plant was -punishable by flogging and the destruction of a plant -involved the penalty of death. The tree grows to -the height of 20 or 30 ft., having a trunk 12 to 18 -inches in diameter; the leaves are of a thick leathery -texture, 4 to 6 inches long, very smooth and -shining on the upper surface, glaucous with prominent -netted veins on the under side, and are traversed -by 3 or 5 ribs. The flowers are greenish-white -and appear in clusters of threes. The fruit -is an oval berry, not unlike an acorn in shape and -color. The tree flowers in January and the fruit -ripens in August. When the branches are peeled -the finest sticks are said to be derived from the liber -of the middle-sized branches, an inferior sort from -the younger shoots, and that which is procured from -the thickest branches is considered of little worth. -The peeling commences in May and lasts until November. -The shoots or branches, usually about ½-inch -to ¾-inch in diameter and from 3 to 5 ft. long, -are cut off with a curved pruning knife, tied up in -bundles and carried to the peeling sheds. The bark<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span> -is removed with a small, round-pointed knife, with a -small projecting rib or cutter placed at right angles -to the edge of the knife. With this knife the bark -is split lengthwise of the stock. It is then carefully -loosened from the wood for a short distance on -either side of the slit. A similar incision is made on -the opposite side and the bark is finally removed. -The bark is then put in piles, covered with scrapings -and matting and left for about two days, during -which time a sort of fermentation takes place, -which greatly facilitates the separation of the outer -part of the bark from the cuticle and epidermis, -which is carefully done by scraping with a small, -curved knife, having a slightly serrated edge. This -process is called piping. The piper sorts the bark -as he scrapes it. He selects a slip suitable for the -outer layer, about 3 ft. long, and packs within it 6 -or 8 other pieces, all about the thickness of vellum -paper—a mark which always distinguishes Ceylon -cinnamon from cassia. They are then rolled up together -and exposed to the sun to dry. It now resembles -a tight roll of paper, the best quality being -firm and compact, of a golden yellow color, smooth -on both outer and inner surfaces. The cheaper -grades are not so carefully made, having many short -pieces in the pipes or quills and not so much attention -is paid to obtain uniform size and color. At -Colombo it is sorted into three kinds by government -inspectors. The two finest kinds are exported, the -third with the broken pieces being reserved for obtaining -oil of cinnamon. It is formed in bales about -90 lbs. each and wrapped in double cloths made of -hemp, and not, as stated by some, of the cocoa tree.</p> - -<p>Guava bark, soaked in the water left after the distillation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span> -of cinnamon oil and rubbed over with cinnamon -oil, is sometimes placed inside good cinnamon -quills and then it takes a man of Solomon’s wisdom -to detect the fraud.</p> - -<h3>Cassia</h3> - -<p>Cassia, under the name of Kwei, is mentioned in -the earliest Chinese herbal—that of the Emperor -Shena-ming, who reigned about 2700 B. C.; in the -ancient Chinese classics, and in Rh-ya an herbal -dating from 1200 B. C. In the Hai-yao-pen-ts’ao, -written in the eighth century, mention is made of -Tien-chu Kwei. Tien-chu is the ancient name for -India, perhaps the allusion may be to the cassia bark -of Malabar. In connection with these extremely -early references to the spice, it may be stated that -a bark supposed to be cassia is mentioned as imported -into Egypt together with gold, ivory, frankincense, -precious woods and apes, in the 17th century -B. C. The accounts given by Dioscondes, Ptolemy -and the author of the Periphes of the Erythrean -Sea, that cinnamon and cassia were obtained from -Arabia and eastern Africa; and we further know -that the importers were Phoenicians who traded by -Egypt and the Red Sea with Arabia, and it was imported -hither from southern China.</p> - -<p>Cassia, according to Marshall and others, is the -bark of the old branches and trunks of the cinnamon -zeylanicium, while others assert that it is the bark -of an entirely different species, namely, cinnamon -cassia, a native of China, but also grown in Java. -This view is the more probable, as no cassia is exported -from Ceylon, it almost all coming from Canton. -Regents have also very different effects on the -infusion and oil of these two barks, which conclusively<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span> -shows that they are obtained from different -species. Cassia comes in bales, 2 to 4 lbs., bound by -strips from the bark of some other tree. The pipes -or quills are thicker and rolled once or twice, and -never contain thinner pieces within; the diameter -of the bark is much thicker, harder, and not as carefully -scraped. The color is a deeper browinsh-fawn -color. The taste is more acridly aromatic, pungent -sweet, at the same time more powerfully astringent -yet muclignious. Cassia is often substituted for -cinnamon. It is adulterated with cassia lignea, the -bark of a degenerate variety of cinnamon zeylanicium -growing in Malabar, Penang and Silhet.</p> - -<p>Other varieties of cassia are: Saigon cassia, the -bark of an unknown species which appeared in commerce -about 1875. The outer bark is not removed, -has a gray or grayish-brown color, is covered externally -with whitish blotches, warts or wrinkles.</p> - -<p>C. Aromaticum is believed to be the cinnamon of -China and Cochin China, growing in the provinces -of Kwantung and Kwangsi. The leaves are very -much larger than the Ceylon tree, hang down from -the stalks and have never more than three ribs. -This is the species that yields the cassia buds.</p> - -<p>C. Tamala is a native of India, wild in Derwanee -and Gongachora. It is cultivated in the gardens of -Rungpoor. The dried leaves have an aromatic taste.</p> - -<p>C. Loureirii grows in the lofty mountains of Cochin -China, to the west towards Laos, Japan. The -flowers of cassia are produced by this species. The -old and young branches are worthless, but the middle-sized -shoots produce a bark that is superior to -that of Ceylon. None of it is exported.</p> - -<p>C. Culilawan is a native of Amboyna. The bark<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span> -when dry is aromatic like cloves, but less pungent -and sweeter. It is used by the natives of Amboyna -as an internal medicine and as a stimulating linament.</p> - -<p>C. Rubrium grows in Cochin China, and contains -an essential oil, smelling of cloves, but not so agreeable.</p> - -<p>C. Sintoc is a tree about 80 ft. high, growing in -the Neilgherry mountains, India, and the higher -mountains of Java. The bark is of the same quality -as the Amboyna cassia, but not so agreeable. It is -more bitter and powdery when chewed.</p> - -<p>C. Xanthaneuron is a native of the Papuan islands -and the Moluccas. The bark when fresh is very fragrant, -but it soon loses its quality.</p> - -<p>C. Nitidum is a native of India. It is a shrub or -small tree.</p> - -<p>C. Javanicum grows in Java and Borneo. It is a -tree of about 20 to 30 ft. high. The dried bark is -of a deep cinnamon brown color; more bitter than -the Ceylon cinnamon, and the leaves when rubbed -have a sharp aromatic odor.</p> - -<p>Cinnamon of the Ceylon type is cultivated in Guyana, -the Isle of St. Vincent, Cape de Verde, Brazil, -the Isle of France, Pondicheny, Guadaloupe and elsewhere. -There is, however, no probability that the -tree will succeed as an article of commerce that has -not the hot, damp insular climate and bright light -of Ceylon.</p> - -<p>The barks of all these different species, including -that of Ceylon, are classed as “cinnamon” in the -pharmacopias of Austria, Germany, Hungary, Russia, -the United States, France, Spain, Denmark and -Switzerland, while in the United Kingdom cinnamon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span> -must be the bark of the Ceylon plant C. zeylanicium; -the others being classed as cassia.</p> - -<h3>Oil of Cinnamon</h3> - -<p>Oil of cinnamon is made from the pieces and chips -of the bark, it is of a red-yellowish color. Eighty -pounds of bark yields about 8 ozs. of oil. It is very -stimulating. It is often adulterated with oil of cassia, -oil of cassia buds, oil of cherry laurel, and oil of -bitter almonds—the latter is a very dangerous mixture.</p> - -<p>Cinnamon leaves yield an oil resembling oil of -cloves, with which it is often mixed.</p> - -<p>The ripe berries of the cinnamon tree yield a -volatile oil, similar to oil of juniper, and from the -root is obtained camphor.</p> - -<p>Cassia oil is obtained from the leaves, buds, or -bark. It is of a golden-yellow color, but turns brown -with age. It is considered good for influenza.</p> - -<p>Cassia buds resemble nails with heads of different -size and shape, according to the period of growth -when collected.</p> - -<p>There is also a kind of wild cinnamon, or cassia, -which grows in Cuba, but its taste resembles more -that of cloves than of cinnamon.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="CLOVES" class="sans">CLOVES<br /> - -<span class="subhead sep">Interesting History With Illustration Showing Flower, -Bud and Fruit—Where Grown and Commercial -Uses</span> -</h2> -</div> - -<div class="sep"></div> - -<p>Cloves are dried, unopened calyces or flower buds -of the clove tree, Caryophyllus aromaticus, a kind of -myrtle, a native of the Molucca islands. In commerce -they are chiefly distinguished by their place of growth -and rank in the following order: Penang, Bencoolen, -Amboyna, and Zanzibar. In addition to these there -enter into commerce as secondary products, clove -stalks and mother cloves, or the dried ripened fruit. -The bulk of these secondary products are shipped -from Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>The clove tree is an evergreen, 15 to 30 ft. high. -It has a thin smooth bark and adheres closely to the -wood, which is a gray color and of little use. The -leaves are 3 to 5 in. long. The upper side and foot-stalk -is red, shading to a dark color, while the under -surface is green. The flowers grow in small bunches -at the extremities of the boughs, very like the flower-buds -of the lilac tree, and all are of a delicate purplish -color. The calyx is long and forms the seed -sack. As the blossoms fade the calyx changes color -from yellow to red. If allowed to remain on the tree -after this the calyx swells like that of the rose. In -this state it loses its pungent properties and is called -mother clove, and is practically of no value as a -choice spice. The cultivated trees are kept pruned -to about 8 or 10 ft. in height.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width: 21.25em;"> -<img src="images/i_p022.png" width="340" height="465" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The harvesting of the flower-buds commences immediately -after they assume a bright red color. Such -blossoms as can be reached are plucked by hand, -while those that grow on the upper branches are -beaten down with bamboo poles and caught in -clothes spread beneath the trees. They are then -dried in the shade or by hanging on hurdles over -slow wood fires—they lose about half their weight -in the drying process. They are usually finished off -in the sun, which gives them a darker color. The -quicker they are dried the less the loss of aroma. -Good cloves have a strong aromatic smell, a hot, -spicy taste and a light brown or tan color. The season<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span> -for harvesting is from September to March. A -10-year-old tree yields about 20 lbs. of cloves a year, -the yield increasing up to 100 lbs. for a 20-year old -tree.</p> - -<p>Penang cloves are from the Straits Settlements. -They are large, plump and of a bright color. Amboyna -cloves are not so large as the Penang and are -of a dark brown color. Zanzibar cloves are smaller -than the Amboyna, a bright reddish color and generally -very dry. Pemba cloves are small and dark -in color and mostly arrive in a damp condition, and -therefore lose weight if kept long.</p> - -<p>Cloves have sometimes a portion of their oil extracted, -which gives them a pale, thin, shriveled appearance, -altho they may be freshened up by rubbing -with a little oil or passed off by mixing with good -cloves. Cloves that have been tampered with have -a good proportion of their heads or knobs off; altho -another cause for headless cloves is that they may -have been gathered when too ripe.</p> - -<p>Pure oil of cloves is almost colorless, with a faint -yellow tinge and the strong smell and burning taste -of cloves. When old it turns to a reddish brown -color. It has a greater specific gravity than water, -in which it will sink.</p> - -<p>Clove stalks and mother cloves are used in the -manufacture of ground cloves and mixed spices. In -Brazil the flower-buds of the tree whose bark furnishes -cloves cassia are often used as substitutes for -true cloves. The clove tree attracts so much moisture -that herbage will not grow beneath its branches -and the clove of commerce has such an affinity to -water that if placed near a vessel of water they will -absorb enuf of the moisture in a few hours to appreciably<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span> -increase their weight. It is said that dealers -often take advantage of this to increase the -weight of their goods and thus enhance their profits.</p> - -<p><b>A Little Clove History</b>—This spice was well known -to the ancients and is mentioned by several Chinese -authors as in use under the Han dynasty, B. C. 266 to -220, during which period it was customary for the -officers of the court to hold the spice in their mouth -before addressing the sovereign, in order that their -breath might have an agreeable odor. At this period -the clove was called fowl’s tongue spice. In 1265 A. D. -the price was 12s per lb. In 1609 a ship of the -East India Co., called the Consent, brot 112,000 lbs. -to England which was sold at 5s 6d per lb. As was -the case with nutmegs, the Dutch attempted to control -the business in cloves. With this object in view, -they caused all the clove trees to be destroyed except -those of the island of Amboyna. The natives of -the island were compelled to rear a certain number -of plants each year and also to protect the bearing -trees. The French, however, found a number of clove -trees growing wild in the smaller island, and Poivre, -French governor of Mauritius, who obtained the plant -from the island of Guebi, introduced the clove -tree into that colony in 1770. About 1800 an Arab -named Harameli-ben-Selah took some seeds and -plants from Boubon to Zanzibar and commenced the -cultivation of cloves in that country. The word clove -is derived from the Latin clavus nail, Spanish clavo -and French clou, owing its nail-like appearance.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="GINGER" class="sans">GINGER<br /> - -<span class="subhead sep">Used as a Spice by the Early Greeks and Romans—Plant -a Native of Asia and Grew Wild in -Mexico and Africa</span> -</h2> -</div> - -<div class="sep"></div> - -<p>As a spice, ginger was used among the early Greeks -and Romans, who appear to have received it by way -of the Red sea, inasmuch as they considered it to be -a production of southern Arabia. In the list of imports -from the Red sea into Alexandra which, in the -2nd century of our era, were then liable to the Roman -fiscal duty, ginger occurs among other Indian spices. -It appears in the tariff of duties levied at Acre in -Palestine, about 1173, in that of Barcelona in 1221, -Marseilles in 1228 and Paris 1296. It was known in -England before the Norman conquest, being frequently -named in the Anglo-Saxon leech-books of the 11th -century as well as in the Welsh “Physicians of Myddvai.” -During the 13th and 14th centuries, it was, -next to pepper, the commonest of spices, costing on -an average 1s 7d per lb., or about the price of a sheep. -Three kinds of ginger were known to Italian merchants -about the 14th century: (1) Belledi of Baladi, -an Arabic name which applied to ginger would -signify country, wild, and denotes common ginger; -(2) Columbonio, which refers to Columbuno, Kolam -or Quilon, a port in Travanore, frequently referred -to in the middle ages; (3) Micchino, which denotes -brot from or by way of Mecca. Marco Polo saw it in -India and China, 1230–1239. John of Montecorvino, a -missionary friar, who visited India in 1290, gives a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span> -description of the plant and refers to the root being -dug up and transplanted. Nicolo de Conti, a Venetian -merchant, early in the 15th century describes -the plant and a collection of roots he saw in India. -The Venetians received it by way of Egypt, and -superior kinds from India overland by the Black -sea. Ginger was introduced into America by Francisco -de Mondoca, who took it from the East Indies -to New Spain. It was shipped for commercial purposes -from the islands of St. Domingo in 1585, and -from Barbadoes in 1654.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width: 15.875em;"> -<img src="images/i_p026.png" width="254" height="468" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Ginger is the dried, knotty fibrous rhizomes or -tubers—“races” or “hands” as they are called from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span> -their irregular, palmate form—of the ginger plant -(zinziber officinale) the real roots being the thin -fibers that branch off from the rhizomes.</p> - -<p>The plant is a native of Asia, but also found growing -wild in Mexico and East Africa. It is a reed-like -biennial plant, not unlike the iris or flag in appearance. -The leaves are long, similar to those of maize, -growing alternate on a stem 3 to 4 ft. high. The -flowers are borne on a separate stem, 6 to 12 in. high; -they are yellow or blue, according to the quality of -the soil in which they have been grown. The plant -which produces the yellow flower and best ginger is -grown on rich, deep, virgin soil; the other comes -from poorer ground. Ginger is propagated by pieces -of the rhizome being planted in March. The flowers -appear about September, after they have withered -and seeded. The roots are dug up about January. -When left too long in the ground, the rhizomes become -very fibrous, if taken up too soon they are -tender and succulent, so much so that they cannot be -made sufficiently dry to render them fit for export -in the usual commercial form. They are therefore -preserved in sugar. The rhizomes, besides being -classed as “yellow” or “blue,” are also divided into -“plant,” (being the rhizomes from plants of the same -season’s growth), and “ratoon” which are rhizomes -left in the ground from the previous harvest.</p> - -<p>Ginger is known in commerce in two distinct forms, -termed respectively as coated or uncoated ginger,—as -having or wanting the epidermis. For the coated -ginger, the races of hands, after being dug up, are -thoroly washed to free them from all the adhering -earth. They are then laid on a canvas or cement -floor, outdoors, to dry by the heat of the sun. At<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span> -night they are taken indoors. It takes from 6 to 8 -days to thoroly dry them. They are then ready for -shipment. In damp weather they are artificially -dried by an evaporator. In this form ginger presents -a brown, more or less wrinkled or straited, surface, -and when broken up shows a dark brownish fracture, -hard, and sometimes horney and resinous. For the -uncoated ginger the fresh-dug rhizomes, after being -washed, are soaked in water for some time and then -peeled or scraped—a most delicate operation requiring -the hand of an expert. Owing to the peculiar -formation of the races, no machine has yet been invented -that will do the work satisfactorily. The -outer rind or skin is deftly taken off by means of a -common knife, so as not to injure the inner root, as -a loss of the pungent volatile oil, to which ginger -owes its value, would follow and thus impair its commercial -worth. After being peeled the races are -soaked in water over night. In the morning they are -again washed, cleaned and weighed, and then dried -in the same manner as coated ginger.</p> - -<p>It requires 3 lbs. of green root to make 1 lb. of dry -root. The purer the water the whiter the ginger. -Sometimes lime juice is added to the wash water, -which gives a whiter root, but as lime juice contains -sugar, it prevents thoro drying and mildew follows. -Ginger is often subjected to a system of bleaching, -or by immersion for a short time in a solution of -chlorinated lime. The white-washed appearance -which much of the ginger has is due to the fact of -its being washed in whiting and water or even coated -with sulphate of lime. Uncoated ginger varies from -single joints an inch or less to flattish, irregularly -branched pieces of several joints, the races of hands,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span> -and from 3 to 4 in. long. Each race has a depression -on the summit showing the former attachment of a -leafy stem. The color, when not white-washed, is a -pale buff. It is somewhat rough, breaking with a -short, mealy fracture, and presenting on the surface -of the broken parts numerous short or bristly fibers.</p> - -<p>The best ginger grown comes from Jamaica. It is -of a superior strength, fine flavor and a light, handsome -color. A peculiar trade custom prevails in -Jamaica with regard to ginger, which is not sold by -weight or measure but by the “heap,” and the size of -the heap governs the price and is an indication, to -a certain extent, of the quality and quantity of the -crop. If the heap is small, the price is high; if the -heap is large, then the price is lower. If the races -or hands, are finely shaped and large, there are fewer -in the heap; if small, dark and mealy, the heap is -made larger.</p> - -<p>The next best quality is Borneo or Cochin ginger, -which closely resembles in appearance the Jamaica. -It is not, however, so carefully prepared.</p> - -<p>African ginger, also termed Bombay or Calcutta, -from the ports of shipment, is darker in color, has a -coarser appearance, a harsher flavor and inferior -aroma to either of the above, but contains a greater -amount of oleoresin than they do and is very pungent. -It is largely used for making ginger beer, essences, -extracts, etc.</p> - -<p>Leaf ginger is ginger that has been sliced into thin -flakes.</p> - -<p>Green ginger root, is that which has not undergone -any process of cleaning beyond freeing it from the -earth adhering. Imported in casks and used by wine -makers, preservers, etc.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span> -Spent-ginger is whole ginger that has once been -used, then fixed up to resemble good ginger and sold -whole or ground. It does not possess a single one of -the valuable properties of genuine ginger.</p> - -<p>China ginger is not imported in a dried state, the -rhizomes being too tender and succulent to thoroly -dry for export. It is preserved or candied. For preserving, -the rhizomes are first scalded, then washed -in cold water and peeled, then boiled in pans for 2 or -3 hours; then transferred to copper pans and boiled -for 2 hours in a mixture of sugar and water—just -sufficient water to cover the roots, 5 lbs. of sugar to -10 lbs. of ginger, the roots having been pierced with -a sharp instrument to enable the sugar to soak into -them. After boiling the ginger is put into large -jars and stands for several days, when it is again -boiled in sugar and water in the same quantities. -After it has become cold it is packed in jars or tins -for export. To crystallize, the same process is gone -thru, only in the final boiling it is boiled until the -sugar become dry.</p> - -<p>The Chinese season for preserving ginger is from -July to October. It is nearly all prepared in Canton -and Hongkong. A kind known as Ng Mai Keunig is -preserved in Swaton, from Alpina galanga, but it is -not like the Canton or Hankou ginger and is only -made for native consumption, to be used medicinally -or for cooking. Some of it goes to the Straits Settlement, -but none to Hongkong. Jamaica preserved ginger -is mostly put up in glass bottles. The uses of -ginger are too well known to need repeating.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="MUSTARD" class="sans">MUSTARD<br /> - -<span class="subhead sep">Well Known to the Ancients, but More in a Medicinal -Way—How Cultivated and Prepared for -Commercial Uses</span> -</h2> -</div> - -<div class="sep"></div> - -<p>Mustard was well known to the ancients, but more -in a medicinal way than dietetic. From an edict of -Diocletian, 30 A. D., in which it is mentioned along -with alimentary substances, we must suppose it was -then regarded as a condiment, at least in the eastern -parts of the Roman empire. In Europe, during the middle -ages, mustard was a valued accompaniment to -food, especially with the salted meats which constituted -a large portion of the diet of our ancestors during -the winter. In the Welsh “Meddygon Myddrai” of -the 13th century, a paragraph is devoted to the “Virtues -of Mustard.” In household accounts of the 13th -and 14th centuries, mustard is of constant occurrence; -it was then cultivated in England, but not extensively. -The price of the seed between 1285 and 1340 varied -from 1s 3d to 6s 8d per quarter (21 lbs.), but between -1347 and 1376 it was as high as 15s and 16s. In the -accounts of the Abbey of St. Germain des Pres in -Paris, 800 A. D., mustard is specially mentioned as a -regular part of the revenue of the convent lands.</p> - -<p>The essential oil of mustard was first noticed in -1660 by Nicolas le Febre and more distinctly in 1732 -by Boerharroe.</p> - -<p>The word mustard comes from the Italian, murtard, -which is derived from the Latin must-um, unfermented -grape juice, with which the Italians formerly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span> -mixed ground mustard. The Athenians called -it napy; while the Hellenistic name was sinapi, or -sinapy, whence the Latin sinapi, or sinapis, from -which is derived the German word senf. Hippocrates -used mustard in medicine under the name of Vanuit. -The dark seed, which comes from Trieste, Austria, is -called Trieste mustard. Spoken of by Theophnastus, -Galin and others. What is called French mustard, German -mustard, etc., is made of the dressings mixed -with vinegar, garlic and other spices and flavoring -musterial. The form in which table mustard is now -sold dates from 1720, about which time Mrs. Clements, -of Durham, Eng., hit on the idea of grinding the seed -in a mill and sifting the flour from the husk. This -bright yellow farina rapidly attained wide popularity. -The fame of “Durham Mustard” was spread far and -wide, Mrs. Clements traveling to London and principal -cities twice a year taking orders.</p> - -<p>There are two species of mustard plants from -which ground mustard is made. The sinapes alba, -white or yellow mustard, and sinapes nigra, brown -or black mustard, is the mustard plant spoken of in -Luke XIII, 19. They are annual herbs, three to 6 ft. -high, with lyrate leaves, yellow flowers, and slender -pods, from one to four inches long, containing a single -row of roundish seeds.</p> - -<p>One of the peculiarities incident to the cultivation -of mustard is the fact that two crops of mustard cannot -be raised on the same ground in succession. Another -variety is sinapes arvenus, or wild mustard, -called charlock and used for adulterating; the Sarepta, -the black seed of the sinapes juncea, from the -East Indies, is used for the same purpose. Sarepta<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span> -is called from a city of that name in Russia, in the -government of Saratov.</p> - -<p>The brown or black variety is sown in January and -the yellow or white in March, the seed being sown -broadcast and harvested in August. A reaper is used, -cutting the stalks and throwing them in bunches, -where they are left to cure until October. They are -now thoroly dry and are taken to a convenient place, -spread out upon sheets of canvas and rolled with a -heavy roller. The stalks and empty pods are then -raked off, and the chaff and seeds remaining are run -thru a fanning machine, after which process they are -ready to sack and market.</p> - -<p>There are two processes in use in making ground -mustard. In the first, the seeds, white or black, or -mixed, are ground to powder and then put thru an -elaborate course of siftings. The product left after -the first sifting is called “dressings” and that which -passes thru is pure mustard flour. This mustard flour -is again run thru a finer sieve, and so on until the -required fineness is obtained. From the dressings -left after the different sievings, the essential oil of -mustard is expressed.</p> - -<p>In the other method, the oil is first extracted from -the seeds by hydraulic pressure, which leaves a sort -of cake. This cake is then broken up and pounded in -a mortar. It is then sifted, that going thru the sieve -being a kind of bolted mustard flour. The remaining -bran is then mixed with an equal quantity of wheat -flour, one per cent of cayenne and sufficient turmeric -to give the proper color. This is pounded and treated -as before, the process being continued until there is -no bran left. Then all the different siftings are mixed -together, giving a mixture of about equal proportions<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span> -of mustard and wheat flour, with the cayenne and -turmeric added in proper quantities.</p> - -<p>The peculiar pungency and odor, to which mustard -owes much of its value, are due to an essential oil -developed by the action of water on two chemical -substances contained in black mustard seed; one -called sinigrin and the other myrosin. The latter -substance in the presence of water acts as a sort of -ferment on the sinigrin, and it is worthy of remark -that this reaction does not take place in the presence -of boiling water and, therefore, it is not proper to -use very hot water in the preparation of mustard, cold -water only should be used. White mustard seed contains -in the place of sinigrin a peculiar acrid substance -called sinalbin and also a trace of myrosin, -therefore, it possesses very little pungency and it -produces a larger percentage of flour than the black. -The proper blending of these two seeds is necessary -to the production of the best mustard, as the white -has the peculiar ferment within it which develops -to the highest degree the flavor of the black.</p> - -<p>The reason for mixing wheat flour, rice flour or -other farina with pure mustard flour is, that owing -to the large amount of oil contained in the latter it -will not keep long, but turns rancid, ferments and -cakes; the added farinas by absorbing a portion of -the oil retards fermentation, decomposition and rancidity. -They should not be looked upon as adulterants, -unless added in too great quantities, and the -price of the mustard should be in proportion to the -added absorbents.</p> - -<p>A mean form of adulteration is to mix gypsum and -chrome yellow with the ground mustard seed.</p> - -<p>If upon the addition of a small quantity of iodine<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span> -to ground mustard it turns blue, it shows that starch -is present. The ammonia test will show the presence -of turmeric. Every manufacturer has his own particular -formula, and consequently there are many -different qualities, both in the pure mustard and the -compounds. One is composed of 37 per cent brown -and 50 per cent white mustard flour, 10 per cent of -rice flour, 3 per cent of black pepper, a little Chili -pepper and ginger.</p> - -<p>Pure mustard oil, as pressed from the seed, is not -pungent and will not blister unless mixed with water.</p> - -<p>The English mustard seed is the best in the world. -Of this class 4,995,800 lbs. of seed and 1,307,202 lbs. -of flour were imported during the year 1908. Mustard -seed and flour from Italy is known as Trieste. In the -Lompoe valley, California, some 2,500 acres are under -mustard cultivation, and a small quantity is also -grown in Kentucky.</p> - -<p>The uses of mustard are too well known to need -recapitulation. D. S. F. means double superfine.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="NUTMEG_AND_MACE" class="sans">NUTMEG AND MACE<br /> - -<span class="subhead sep">Where the Nutmeg Tree Grows—Yield of Nuts and -Mace and How Prepared for the Market—Uses -in Commerce</span> -</h2> -</div> - -<div class="sep"></div> - -<p>The nutmeg tree, known to botanists as Myristica -frangrans (sweet smelling) is a native of the Malay -archipelago. The tree, which in the Banda isles -grows to the height of 50 to 60 ft., and in the Straits -to 30 to 40 ft., resembles the pear tree in the shape -of its leaves and fruit. Its flowers are like those of -the lily of the valley in form and size, but are pale -yellow and exceedingly fragrant. There are male and -female flowers, the nutmegs being obtained from the -latter. It is only when the tree is about 6 or 8 years -old that the female tree can be distinguished from -the male, and of the latter only a few are allowed -to remain for fertilizing purposes, the rest being cut -down. The nutmeg tree continues to yield from 70 -to 80 years after reaching maturity (8 years). -Each tree on an average will produce 10 lbs. of nutmegs -and 1½ lbs. of mace annually. The fruit is -yellowish, edible drupe, about the size of a peach; -it splits into halves when at maturity—about 9 -months from the time of blossoming—exposing a -single seed with a thin, hard shell, surrounded by a -fibrous substance of a crimson color, which, when -dried and shelled becomes the nutmeg. The young -drupes, when young and tender, are often preserved -like jam and are considered the most aromatic and -delicious of conserves. Altho the nutmeg tree has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span> -ripe fruit upon it at all seasons, there are three -principal periods of harvesting, viz: July, when the -fruit is most abundant, though it yields thin mace; -November, when the mace is thicker, though the nutmegs -are smaller, and March, when both mace and -nutmegs reach their greatest perfection—but as this -season is dry the production is not great.</p> - -<div class="figleft" style="max-width: 5.4375em;"> -<img src="images/i_p037.png" width="87" height="488" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The usual method of gathering in the Straits is to -collect the ripe nuts that have fallen on the ground. -In the Banda islands, the fruits are gathered in -small, neatly-made, oval bamboo baskets—holding -about 3 fruit—at the end of a long bamboo stick, -which prevents bruising, the baskets being -opened for about half their length on -one side, and furnished with two small -prongs projecting from the top, by which -the fruit stalk is broken, the fruit falling -into the basket. After the pulp—which -is about ½-in. thick, whitish in color, and -tough like candied peel—has been removed -the mace is stripped off by hand. -The shell of the fruit is very hard and -cannot be broken without injury to the -kernel. To overcome this they are put -into receptacles with fine mesh bottoms, -and dried over a slow fire—being turned -from time to time—until the kernel -rattles freely in the shell, a process -which takes about 6 or 8 weeks. This -also kills any weevil which may be at -work in them. They are then carefully -cracked by placing them on a sort of -drumhead made of raw-hide and striking -them with a board or mallet, when the -shells fly off into pieces. Great caution is needed in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span> -shelling, for if too hard a blow be struck it makes a -black spot on the nutmeg, which affects its -value considerably. After being steeped in salt -water several times and again dried they are sorted -according to size and soundness—130 to 140 to the -pound are the lowest priced, 75 to 80 the highest, -and larger nuts are sold at special prices. The -sorting is done by hand, and nothing but sound, perfect -nuts are supposed to be shipped. The broken -and wormy ones are used in manufacturing “nutmeg -butter,” or, as it is commonly but erroneously -called, “mace oil.” They are now limed. There are -two methods of liming in vogue—the dry and the -wet. In the dry process, the nuts have dry lime -powder rubbed over them, either by hand or shaking -in barrels. In the wet process, the nuts are -put into newly-slacked lime and then spread out to -dry, or they are dipped into a kind of lime-pickle, -thick as syrup, made of calcined-shells and salt -water. After being covered with this mixture they -are dried. The process of liming originated with the -Dutch, with a view to preventing the germinating -of the seeds, for which purpose they were formerly -immersed for three months in milk of lime. Again -it is claimed that liming preserves the nuts against -the attacks of maggots and a particular kind or -beetle by stopping up their breathing and chewing -apparatus. A preference is still manifested for limed -nutmegs.</p> - -<p>As nutmegs are now seldom shipped by sailing -vessels, but by steamers, thus saving the long-time -voyage, there is no reason why they should not come -unlimed, and then the differences in their natural -complexions and range of variations would<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span> -become familiar and easily recognized. The -liming process hides many imperfect or corky nuts; -nuts which have been riddled with worm holes are -“stopped” with a paste made of flour, oil and nutmeg -powder and then mixed with the sound ones. -Occasionally this paste is moulded into false nutmegs. -Besides this, nutmegs are frequently robbed -of part of their essential oil by distillation in -alcohol—a process called “sweating”—and yet sold as -entire nuts. A small quantity of boracic acid will -accomplish the same purpose as lime, and Paris -white and barytes will serve to mask the identity -as well as the defects. A good nutmeg should have -no worm-holes, be full of oil and cut firm like a piece -of wood, and if a pin is thrust into one the oil -should ooze out on its being withdrawn.</p> - -<p>The Penang nutmegs, which are generally not -limed, are considered the best, altho some prefer the -Banda or Batavia, and after these the Singapore. -There is also a demand for an elliptical-shaped nutmeg -of rank flavor, first called long nutmegs, but -now known as Macassars. Another kind of nutmeg -from New Guinea, and known in Germany as “horse -nutmeg,” is from the species Myristica Argentea. -It is of a long and narrow shape. In these the arellus -or mace furrows are less marked and their odor -is not so delicate as that of the true nutmeg.</p> - -<p>There are many kinds of wild or inferior nutmegs, -such as: American Jamaica, or calabash nutmeg -(M. monodora), of the custard-apple family, bearing -a large pulpy fruit containing aromatic seeds. -Brazilian nutmeg (cryptocarya moschata) a tree of -the laurel family, producing nutmegs of an inferior -quality. The nut is longer than the true species and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span> -is sold under the name of long nutmeg. California -nutmeg, a tree of the pine family, called also stinking -nutmeg or stinking yew, from the disagreeable -odor of the leaves and wood when bruised and burned, -and yielding a fruit resembling true nutmegs. -Clove nutmeg, a Madagascar tree of the laurel family, -the fruit a pungent kernel resembling the true -nutmeg and used as a spice. Peruvian nutmeg, a -large tree of the monimiad family, yielding an aromatic -fruit. From Borneo a wild, soapy nutmeg and -mace (M. fatua) are often palmed off as the true -kinds. There is also the Sante Fe nutmeg (Motoba) -from Columbia, S. A., and Ackaway nutmeg, a spice -grown in Guiana, the fruit of Acrodiclidum camard. -Another species, the M. sebefira, is a common tree -in the forests of Guiana, north Brazil, and up into -Panama. It is utilized principally for the oil extracted -from the nuts, obtained by macerating them -in water, the oil rising to the surface, and as it -cools skimmed off. Ackawi nutmegs, used mainly as -a cure for diarrahoea and colic. All these, while resembling -somewhat the true nutmegs and sometimes -foisted on dealers, are of very little real value.</p> - -<h3>Mace</h3> - -<p>When the mace, a bright-red membraneous substance, -is removed from the nut it is pressed flat between -blocks of wood and left to dry until it has -acquired the right color. The preparation of mace -for the market requires experience rather than technical -knowledge. If packed too green it is liable to -mold, and is subject to attacks from insects, which -render it valueless in commerce. On the other hand, -if it becomes too dry it loses its vitality and also -crumbles into powder when packed. Packers frequently<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span> -sprinkle the mace with salt water, which -makes it more pliable and at the same time prevents -attacks from insects.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width: 22.375em;"> -<img src="images/i_p041.png" width="358" height="559" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>We may here state that nutmegs are divided into -two varieties: The green, which are long and in -which the mace only partially covers the nut; is -darker in color and inferior in flavor and aroma; -and the Royal, which furnishes the finest and best -mace, firm, thick, flexible and oily, and entirely envelopes -the nut.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span> -As with the nutmeg, mace is sometimes deprived -of its essential oil, and mixed with wild mace or -other flavorless matter. Myristica Malabarica, -known under the name of Bombay mace, used to -adulterate the true powdered mace, is much larger -and more cylindrical than the arillus of the true -nutmeg and has several flaps united at the apex, -forming a conical structure.</p> - -<p><b>Products</b>—Candied nutmeg and mace, nutmeg -fruits in vinegar or salt, preserved nutmeg fruits, -and nutmeg or mace essence made from the essential -oil of nutmegs (not mace) and rectified spirits. -An essence of mace is also made from 6 oz. mace -and 2 pints cologne spirit, macerated for a couple of -weeks, expressed and filtered thru paper. “Nutmeg -butter”, “butter of nutmeg,” or mace, “concrete oil of -nutmeg,” or “expressed oil of mace,” as it is variously -called, is obtained by subjecting the nutmeg or mace -to a great heat and then squeezing or pressing it in -heavy presses. This substance is of a green color of -the consistency of tallow and of a pleasant smell. A -pound of nutmegs will make 3 ozs. of this oil, but a -transparent volatile oil is obtained by distillation. It -evaporates rapidly on exposure to air. When cold it -becomes somewhat spongy and has a marbled or mottled -appearance. It becomes hard with age and is exported -in small bricks, 10 in. by 2½ in., wrapped in -palm leaves. It is known under several names, as -nutmeg butter, balsam of nutmeg, concrete oil or the -mace oil of commerce, and as Banda soap, sometimes -made from the distilled nutmeg leaves, counterfeited -by using a foreign fatty substance as palm oil, nut, -wax and animal fat, boiled with powdered nutmeg -and flavored with sassafras, which gives it the right -color and flavor.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span> -<b>Uses</b>—Nutmegs, besides their use as a spice or -condiment, are used to relieve sleeplessness when -opium fails and chloral is not advisable. For diarrhoea, -half a drachm in milk is an effective cure. -Butter of mace is used as a liniment and embrocation -for rheumatism and is also a favorite medicine -for low stages of fever with Hindoo doctors.</p> - -<p>For ground nutmeg, all the faulty, broken, moldy, -worm-eaten and wild nutmegs are often used.</p> - -<p>A little of the history of mace and nutmegs: It -has generally been believed that neither the nutmeg -or mace were known to the ancients. Nutmegs and -mace were imported from India at an early date by -the Arabians, and thus passed into western countries. -Masudi, who appears to have visited England in 916–920 -A. D., pointed out that the nutmeg, like cloves, -arcca nut and sandalwood, was a product of the -eastern isles of the Indian archipelago. The Arabian -geographer, Edrisi, who wrote in the middle of the -12th century, mentions both nutmeg and mace as -articles of import into Aden. They are also among -the articles on which duty was levied at Acre in -1180. About a century later another Arabian author, -Kozwim, expressly named the Moluccas as the native -country of the spices under notice. One of the -earliest references to them in Europe occurs in a -poem about 1195, by Petrus D’Ebulo, describing the -entry into Rome of the Emperor Henry VI, previous -to his coronation in 1191. By the end of the 12th -century both nutmeg and mace were found in northern -Europe, even in Denmark, as may be inferred -from the allusions to them in the writings of Harpestring. -In England, mace, though well known, was -a very costly article, its value between 1284 and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span> -1377 being about 4s 7d per lb., while the average -price of a sheep during the same period was about -1s 5d, and of a cow 9s 5d. It was also dear in France, -for in the will of Jeanne d’Evreux, queen of France, -in 1372, 6 ozs. of mace were appraised at the rate -of 8s 3d per lb. In the middle of the 18th century, -the Dutch, with the object of monopolizing the trade -in nutmegs, destroyed all the trees in all the Moluccas -islands, excepting Banda. Nature did not, however, -sympathize with such meanness. The nutmeg -pigeon, found in all the Indian islands, did for the -world what the Dutch had determined should not -be done—carried the nuts, which are their food, into -all the surrounding countries, and trees grew -again and the world had the benefit. In order to -keep up the price, the surplus stock was burned up -each year by certain unscrupulous men, as is proposed -to do at the present day with the surplus -stock of Brazilian coffee. In 1760, they burned at -Amsterdam three such immense piles of nutmegs -and cloves that one writer says: “Each of which -was as big as a church.”</p> - -<p>This account of nutmeg would not be complete -without “Connecticut Nutmegs.” Some 90 years -ago Frederick Accum startled England with his book -“Adulteration of Food and Culinary Poison,” and a -sort of pure food hysteria passed thru the country -similar to that caused by the boric acid investigation -here. But he was eclipsed by a person who -declared that the makers of wooden shoe-pegs in -Connecticut were making oats and nutmegs from -the discarded wood of sawmills. He asserted they -were not only made, but used as food thruout the -country. Thus was Connecticut christened the Nutmeg -State, a name which it has retained even unto -this day.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="PEPPER" class="sans">PEPPER<br /> - -<span class="subhead sep">White and Black Varieties and Why—How the Plant -Is Cultivated and Where—History the Grocer -Should Know to Judge Qualities</span> -</h2> -</div> - -<div class="sep"></div> - -<p>Pepper is a commodity to be found in every grocery -store, but how many grocers know that the pepper -plant—Piper nigrum—which produces the white -and black pepper of commerce, is a climbing vine-like -shrub, found growing wild in the forests of Travanscore -and Malabar coast of India? It is extensively -cultivated in southwest India, whence it has -been introduced into Java, Borneo, the Malay peninsula, -Siam, the Philippines and the West Indies.</p> - -<p>Pepper in the time of Alexander the Great was -considered an extremely choice article and, like gold -and precious stones, was for many generations found -only on royal tables. During the Middle Ages, it was -used as money in payment of tolls, etc., hence the -custom of “pepper corn” rentals, i. e., a nominal rental -or perpetual lease; and its high price is said to -have been one of the causes which led the Portuguese -to seek a sea passage to India.</p> - -<p>The pepper plant grows naturally to 20 ft. in -height, but is cultivated on trellises or poles, about -10 or 12 ft. high and is propagated by cuttings or -suckers. It has a soft stem, the leaves are 4 to 6 in. -long, tough, glossy, broadly ovate, with 5 to 7 nerves, -and grow opposite and alternate to a pendulous spike -5 to 8 in. long, having 20 to 50 white flowers that -ripen into a one-seeded fruit with a fleshy exterior.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span> -This fleshy berry, covering a soft stone, is about the -size of a pea and is at first green, but in ripening -turns red, which gradually darkens to a deep chocolate -shade. The vine begins to bear when 3 or 4 -years old and continues bearing for the next 10 or 15 -years. It is in perfection at its eighth year.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width: 21.75em;"> -<img src="images/i_p046.png" width="348" height="547" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>There are two crops a year—July and December—which -yield 5 to 6 lbs. of dried pepper each for a -single vine. When the berries are ripe the stalk is -pinched off by hand and placed in an oblong cane -basket, slung horizontally behind the plucker by a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span> -rope around his waist. The rounded ends of the -basket extend a little on either side, so that the -basket can be easily filled by either hand of the -workman. The berries are rubbed off the spikes by -hand and placed on mats or on the bare ground, to -dry in the sun, when the weather is fair. In damp -or cloudy weather they are placed in shallow, open -baskets before a gentle fire. If the berries are left -too long on the vines they lose part of their aromatic, -pungent hot taste, and if gathered too soon they -become broken and dusty in drying. After drying, -when they become black and shriveled up, they are -cleaned and winnowed. Good black pepper is firm -and not too deeply wrinkled, does not easily crumble -or break in the hand, it is also heavy and readily -sinks in water. The inner seed should be hard, -round and smooth and of a grayish-brown color. The -outside pericarp should be brownish-black. A yellow -tinge betrays over-ripeness and consequent loss -of strength. A reprehensible practice among some -dealers to hide defective peppers is to artificially -blacken them and polish with oil. The usual method -of judging quality is by weight, the grades technically -being known as heavy, or shot, half-heavy -and light peppers or corns. A one-litre measure may -be filled with the pepper and the contents weighed, -or 100 corns of average size counted and their weight -ascertained. The variations of peppers of different -qualities, according to their habitat, are given in the -following table:</p> - -<table summary="varieties of peppers"> - <tr class="b1"> - <td class="tdc l2">Variety—</td> - <td class="tdc l3">Weight<br />per litre</td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Singapore</td> - <td class="tdl">476 grams</td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span>Tellicherry</td> - <td class="tdl">548 <span class="in1">”</span></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Lampong</td> - <td class="tdl">511 <span class="in1">”</span></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Mangalore</td> - <td class="tdl">574 <span class="in1">”</span></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Malabar</td> - <td class="tdl">570 <span class="in1">”</span></td></tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdl">Acheen</td> - <td class="tdl">407 <span class="in1">”</span></td></tr> -</table> - -<p>It is evident that the moisture present in the corns -plays an important part in the determination of the -weight, and it will be necessary to bring the peppers -up to the stated water content by either drying -them or placing them in a moist atmosphere, or first -weigh them dry and weigh again. A slight variation, -however, from the figures given, is unavoidable.</p> - -<p>Singapore Pepper—The principal part of this import -is the product of Sumatra, Borneo and Siam, -collected at Singapore. A considerable quantity, -however, is the products of the Straits Settlements -themselves. It is of large size and of a fairly uniform -quality, but as pepper powder it is not much esteemed, -owing to the manner of drying, giving it a smoky -flavor that buyers can distinguish Singapore pepper -from peppers grown elsewhere.</p> - -<p>Tellicherry and Alleppey are much alike in appearance, -both being light brown in color. They too, like -the Malabar peppers, are sun-dried. Mangalore (India) -pepper is heavy, large, of a deep black color, -very clean, and of uniform size. When powdered it -is of a greenish-black appearance.</p> - -<p>The pepper shipped from Penang is called Irang -pepper and is grown in Sumatra. From the east end -of the same island comes the Lampong pepper, but -this lacks uniformity, and is light in color. It is -also sun-dried. Long pepper is the fruit spike of -Chivaci Roxburgh, a native of Malabar and Chavica -officinarum, a native of the India archipelago; they -are both climbing plants. The first pods, or catkins,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span> -about 1½ in. long, grow nearly straight, and opposite -the leaves. They are gathered before they are ripe -and dried in the sun, when they become brown or -dark green in color and rough to the touch. They -lack the pungency of the black variety. The long pepper -plant dies at the end of 3 years, and after the -fruit is collected the vine dies down to the ground. -The fruit grows so close together on the spike that -when ripe they become one solid mass. There is -also a variety of long pepper called elephant pepper. -Long peppers are mostly used for pickles. A medium, -called Pippua moola, is made from the roots -and stems; it is very stimulating.</p> - -<p>Cubeb peppers are the berries of the vine Cubeb -officinalis, a product of Java, Borneo and Sumatra, -but mostly imported by way of Batavia and Canton. -They are of a gray color, about the size of black -pepper, somewhat longer, more wrinkled and with a -short slender stalk. They have a hot, camphor taste. -Another kind is distinguished by a mace-like odor -and taste. Cubebs are now mostly used as a medicine.</p> - -<p>Ashantee or West African pepper is the dried berry -of a pepper plant which grows in tropical Africa. It -is smoother and smaller than the black pepper and -resembles the Cubeb very closely. In taste it resembles -the ordinary black pepper. At one time its -importation was forbidden by the king of Portugal, -as it threatened to interfere with the commerce of -India.</p> - -<p>Betel pepper is the berry of Chavica betel, a species -of climbing vine largely cultivated in the East -Indies, Ceylon, Burma, Siam, etc. It furnishes the -leaves which are used along with arecanut and other<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span> -ingredients to compose the favorite stimulant chewing -mixture of the people of India.</p> - -<p>White pepper is from the same plant as black -pepper, with the difference, that to make white pepper -the pepper corns are not picked until fully ripe; -they are then soaked in water for 7 or 8 days, or -heaped up so that the pulp ferments, then they are -rubbed by hand, or on a coarse cloth, if the quantity -be small, or trampled under foot if the quantity be -large; this operation deprives them of the pulpy -skin or husk, and the greenish-white seeds which remain -are the white peppers of commerce; then they -are re-dried, either in the sun or by artificial heat. -White pepper is bleached whiter by a chemical process. -If the berries be left on the vines until over-ripe -they lose their pulpy husk by natural decay and -thus become actually white pepper, altho in reality -they are the kernels of black pepper.</p> - -<p>Singapore white are berries cultivated in the -neighboring islands and the husks are removed at -Singapore by hand and friction before the berries -are fully dried. Penang white is really grown at -Sumatra, but imported into Penang in a dried state. -There the berries are soaked in lime and water for -several weeks, until the pulp is soft, when it is rubbed -off by hand and washing; the berries are then -re-dried.</p> - -<p>Siam white are berries prepared in the same manner -as Singapore white, from berries grown in Siam.</p> - -<p>The dried black peppers, as imported, are also decorticated -or deprived of their husks by machinery, -the result being white pepper, which is sometimes -bleached.</p> - -<p>The active properties of pepper are an acrid resin,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span> -a volatile oil, and a crystallizable, colorless substance -called pipertine, or peperic. Why white pepper -should be preferred before the black is one of -the anomalies of the trade. White pepper has really -only about a quarter the strength of black pepper, -and is the least economical to use for these reasons: -(1) Because of being allowed to ripen it loses much -of its pungency. (2) Because it is deprived of the -outer skin or husk, which contains much of the constituents -which go to make good pepper. (3) Because -it contains scarcely a trace of piperin, one of -the most active principles of pepper. Pepper rapidly -deteriorates under atmospheric influences, and -large stocks should not be carried unless provisions -are made for storing it in air-tight receptacles, for, -unless this precaution is taken, the goods in a few -months will have lost their pungency, which is an -essential characteristic of good pepper.</p> - -<p>Pepper is a stimulant, and used in moderate quantities -is an aid to digestion. In India an infusion of -it is used to create an appetite and as a cure for gout -and palsy. It is also used in cases of cholera-morbus. -A liniment is made from the berries for rheumatism, -and the root is employed as a tonic stimulant and cordial.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 id="CUMIN_OR_CUMMIN_SEED" class="sans">CUMIN, OR CUMMIN SEED<br /> - -<span class="subhead sep">Also Caraway, Coriander, Cardimons, Poppy, Aniseed, -Saffron and Turmeric Described.</span> -</h2> -</div> - -<h3 class="sep">Cumin, or Cummin Seed</h3> - -<p>The aromatic fruit or seed of a plant of the genus -Umbellefera. It is referred to in Scripture (Matt. -xxxiii:23). As salt was a symbol of friendship, -“shearers of salt and cummin” meant intimate -friends. The seeds are linear and flat on -one side and convex or striated on the other. -Their odor and properties resemble the caraway, or -anise seeds, and they are often called bastard anise. -They are used in Germany in bread, in Holland they -are frequently put into cheese. Norwegian anchovies -in kegs are frequently flavored with them, and they -are also used in making curry powder, as a carminative -flavoring, and in veterinary medicines, etc.</p> - -<h3>Caraway Seed</h3> - -<p>The caraway plant has a branching stem 2 or 3 ft. -high, with finely divided leaves and dense umbels -of white or pinkish white flowers. The leaves are -frequently used to flavor soup and the roots, which -taper like a parsnip, and when young are boiled and -eaten as a vegetable. The seeds are oblong, pointed at -both ends, thickest in the middle, striated on the -surface and of a crescent shape, they have an aromatic -smell and warm, pungent taste. From the -seeds is obtained a volatile oil called oil of caraway, -of a pale yellow color which turns dark with age;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span> -it is frequently adulterated with oil of cumin. After -the oil has been extracted the seeds are called -“drawn caraways,” and by way of deception are often -mixed with good caraway seeds. They can be told -by their shrunken, dark appearance. The color of the -English caraway seeds is a deep brown, those of -Germany and Holland are larger and of a light blue-brown -color, while those from Russia, Poland and -Bohemia are small, of a blackish brown color, and -mixed with a good deal of dirt. There is a variety -of a light brown color, about twice the size of the -English caraways, imported from Mogador.</p> - -<p>Caraway seeds and oil are used medicinally, as a -flavoring by bakers and confectioners, in compounding -various liquors, particularly that known as Kummel, -and in making Scotch cavie, or caraway, comfits; -for this purpose the seeds are coated with sugar -and colored red, pink, blue, yellow, etc.</p> - -<h3>Coriander.</h3> - -<p>The word “coriander” is derived from the Greek -word Koriannon, a bed-bug, referring to the disagreeable -smell of the whole plant when fresh, but -the ripe and perfectly dried fruit has an agreeable -smell and a sweetish, aromatic taste. Its an annual -or bi-annual plant, of the genus Umbelliferce, native -of South Europe, with a branching stem 1 or 2 ft. -high. The lower leaves bipennate, the upper ones -being more compounded and divided into very narrow -divisions. The fruit is globose, containing round -slightly ribbed or ridged seeds, about as large as -black pepper, very light, of a yellowish brown or -straw color externally; inside the husk of each seed -are two closely fitting hemispherical mericarps.</p> - -<p>The seeds are used in medicine as a carminative.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span> -They cover the taste of senna leaves better than -any other substance; are occasionally mixed with -curry powder; in domestic economy they are used -by confectioners and bakers as flavorings, being -often mixed with bread in the north of Europe. A -cordial is made from them, and they are used for -flavoring spirituous liquors, particularly gin.</p> - -<h3>Cardamons.</h3> - -<p>Cardamons consist of the seeds of two species of -plants, the Elettaria of Malabar and the Amomon of -China, Guinea and other parts of the East Indies. As -the seeds of the two species differ in some respects -we will describe the Ellettaria kind. The plant, which -grows 5 to 10 ft. high, has a reed-like habit and bear -long, loose racemes of flowers, succeeded by triangular -capsules, of a dirty white color, containing a -number of dark brown, angular seeds about the size -of mustard seeds. The capsules or fruits, which -vary from ½ in. to 2 in. in length, are collected from -wild plants and also from plantations, the latter being -generally laid out in partially cleared forests -in which the wild plants are known to occur. When -about 3 years old the plants begin to bear. The -capsules do not all ripen at the same time, and the -harvest lasts for nearly two months. The capsules -are gathered before they are ripe and then cured in -the sun, after which the stalks and remains of flowers -are carefully removed by means of scissors. -They are then graded into “shorts,” “short-longs,” -and “long-longs,” according to their length; sometimes -they are mixed and classed as lesser or greater -cardamons. Cardamon seeds are exported in the -capsules in order to prevent adulteration. The -seeds have a very delicate aroma and are slightly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span> -pungent. They were well known to the ancients, -and are used at present in medicine, particularly in -veterinary practice, also in flavoring culinary sauces, -soups, curries, cordials, pastry, and for imparting a -factitious strength to vinegar, beer, wines and -spirits, especially gin; their use creates a thirst. -The seeds depend for their quality on a pungent essential -oil, of which they contain about 3 per cent, -called oil of cardamons; they also contain about 10 -per cent of a fixed oil. The seeds of the “Amomum” -species of cardamons are bright black in color outside, -white inside and small and angular in shape; -they are slightly aromatic, very hot and pungent.</p> - -<p>Cardamons are known as grains of Paradise, -Melegueta pepper, Guinea grains and Guinea pepper.</p> - -<h3>Poppy Seeds</h3> - -<p>Poppy seeds are not unlike fine gunpowder in general -appearance, being very small, dark blue—nearly -black in color; they are obtained from the same -plant that yields opium (Papavar somnniferium, or -white poppy.) The seeds are not narcotic, and have -a sweet taste, are oleaginous and nutritious. They -are largely used in some parts of Europe in pastry, -confectionery and as a substitute for almonds. Under -the name of “Maw seeds,” they are sold as food for -birds during moulting season. Poppy seed oil is -sometimes used as an adulterant in olive oil; it is -also used as an illuminant and for painting.</p> - -<h3>Fennel</h3> - -<p>Fennel is a tall, stout, aromatic herb of the parsley -family, with finely dissected leaves, which are -boiled and served with salmon, mackerel, etc., as a -seasoning; the flowers are yellow. A species—F.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span> -dulce—is cultivated in Italy as celery is with us; -and its blanched stems are said to be more tender -and delicate than celery, with a slight flavor of -fennel. The seeds of another species—F. panmorium—grown -in Bengal, have a warmish, very sweet -taste and aromatic smell, and are used in making -betel, in curries, and also used as a carminative. -Fennel seeds resemble aniseeds in appearance and -taste, and are often sold for such; they are a little -longer and of a light brown color. The Indian seeds -are the largest, the Italian and Japanese the smallest. -They are used in confectionery, cookery and are -sometimes chewed by the people of France and Germany. -Fennel water is made from the oil obtained -from the seeds.</p> - -<div class="poem-container"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">And he who battled and subdued<br /></span> -<span class="i0">A wreath of fennel wore.—Longfellow.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h3>Aniseed</h3> - -<p>Aniseed is an annual plant of the order of Umbelliferae -of the parsley family, a native of Egypt, -but also extensively cultivated in Russia, Germany, -Malta and Spain. Aniseed is very similar in appearance -to the poisonous hemlock seed, for which it has -sometimes been mistaken. The seed, which is a little -larger than a pin’s head, is of a greyish-green -color. They have an aromatic smell, and warm, -sweetish taste, and are used in condiments, in cookery -and in the preparation of liquors, also in medicine -as a stimulative stomachic to relieve flatulence, -etc., particularly in infants. The properties of aniseed -are due to a nearly colorless or sometimes blue -volatile oil. Aniseed oil with water and sugar is -much used in Italy as a cooling drink. The leaves of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span> -the plant are sometimes used as a seasoning and for -garnishing.</p> - -<p>Star aniseed, or China aniseed, is the fruit of a -small evergreen tree of the order Magnoliacae, somewhat -resembling a laurel. It receives its name from -the star-like form of the fruit or capsule, which consists -of a number (6 to 12) of hard, woody, one-sided -follicies or carpels ending in a point, each containing -a single brown, shiny seed. Star aniseed is held in -high esteem by the Japanese and is planted near their -temples, the seeds being burned as incense in the -temples and over the graves of relatives. The whole -plant is carminative, and is used by the Chinese as -a stomachic and as a spice in their cookery. The -qualities of the seed and oil closely resemble those -of the common aniseed and the oil is exported to -Europe for the same purpose—flavoring liquors.</p> - -<h3>Saffron</h3> - -<p>Consists of the dried stigmas of the autumn or fall -crocus plant (crocus sativus), which should not be -confounded with the spring crocus (crocus vernus), -to which it is nearly allied. The crocus derives its -name from Crogeus—which is from the Greek word -Krokus, yellow—the modern Korghy in Cilicune, -where it was grown in ancient times. The word -“crocodile” is derived from the Greek words Krokos, -yellow, and deilos, fearful, on the ancient supposition -the animal avoided the place where saffron grows -and only sheds real tears when in the vicinity of -a crocus field, hence Fuller says: “The crocodile -tears are never true, save he is forced where saffron -groweth.” The phrase, “crocodile tears,” arose from -the idea that the crocodile pretended to cry over the -victims it had devoured. Saffron was of great importance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span> -ages ago. It is mentioned in the third chapter -of Solomon’s Songs; it was in favor among the -ancient Greeks as a dye, and with both them and the -Romans as a perfume. The streets of Rome were -sprinkled with saffron when Nero made his entry -into that city. In the middle ages it was employed -in cookery and as a drug, and it is on record that -as late as the fifteenth century persons were burned -alive in Muremburg for adulterating saffron. It was -introduced to England in 1339 from Tripoli by a -pilgrim who had a stolen bulb in the hollow of his -staff. Its main use was to color pastry and confectionery, -hence: “I must have saffron to color the -warden pies” (Shakespeare’s Winter’s Tale, act 4, -scene 1). The town of Saffron Waldron in Essex, -derives its name from the fact of its being cultivated -in that neighborhood until 1768. The cultivation of -the crocus for saffron in England has entirely died -out; altho the people of Cornwall at the present day -use more saffron than all the rest of Great Britain. -It is cultivated in China, Cashmere, Persia, Asia -Minor, Egypt, Austria, Hungary, Russia, Italy, France, -but the chief source of supply is Spain.</p> - -<p>A saffron field is not in full bearing until the end -of the second year, at the end of the third year it is -exhausted, and it is said that the soil is so poisoned -that it cannot be used for any other crops for several -years. Each acre produces from 600,000 to 700,000 -bulbs and each bulb 2 or 3 flowers. About 150,000 -flowers are required to produce 2 lbs. of fresh pistils, -which when dried are reduced to one-fifth of that -weight.</p> - -<p>The small yield, the labor required, the care in -culture and the difficulty of preserving the product in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span> -a good state renders saffron an expensive article—about -80c an ounce. On the seed-bearer of the flower -there is a thread-like hook or fork, which at its upper -head terminates in three thick, dark, orange-colored -nerves or tissues; to save and collect these tissues -the flowers are gathered in the fall, just as they are -breaking, or a little before; they are plucked early -in the morning, and these little masses are then -pulled out with a considerable portion—about 1¼ in. -of thread-like stem, to which they adhere. They are -then dried over little charcoal fires or in the sun. -It is this dried stigma, the trifid orange-colored tops -of the central organ of the flower, that is the saffron -of commerce. The remainder of the flower is useless.</p> - -<p>Saffron as it generaly comes to the trade consists -of a large number of crooked and mixed-up threads, -of an orange-red color; it has a peculiar, sharp, rooty -and pungent smell, and a bitter balsam-like taste; -that of a whitish yellow or blackish color is old and -inferior. The great solubility of saffron prevents its -use as a dye for fabrics, its place being taken by -aniline dyes. Its coloring power is remarkable, a -single grain rubbed to a fine powder with a little -sugar will impart a distinct tint of yellow to 10 gals, -of water; soaked in spirits or warm water it will -yield three-fourths of its weight of a deep orange -yellow coloring matter, which is perfectly wholesome, -and if kept tightly corked will keep for some time. -The chief uses of saffron are for flavoring and coloring -confectionery and culinary articles; it is also -used as a perfume and is given to birds during the -moulting season. Spanish saffron is divided into five -grades, according to the district in which it is cultivated.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span> -It is generally wrapped in tinfoil and then -in white tissue paper and packed in tin boxes or -strong cartons.</p> - -<p>On account of its high price saffron is often counterfeited -or adulterated with the petals of safflowers, -African saffron, Meadow or wild saffron, marigold, -arnica, etc. It is also loaded with glycerine, glucose, -dyed vegetable filamenta, honey, sulphate of soda, -barium sulphate, etc., and exhausted saffron is sometimes -re-colored with aniline dye. The stigma of -genuine saffron immediately expands on being moistened -with warm water, and its form is so characteristic -that it cannot be mistaken for the flowerets of -any of its adulterates.</p> - -<p>Cake saffron is generally made from the dried flowers -of the safflowers—a thistle-like plant of the aster -family—or the florets of the saffron plants made into -a paste with gum-water; it is used for dying and making -rouge.</p> - -<h3>Turmeric</h3> - -<p>Turmeric is an East Indian plant (curcuma longa) -of the ginger family, with the same properties as -ginger, only not so powerful. It is also grown in -Zanzibar, China and the Malayan archipelago. It -is a stemless plant with dark green leaves varying -from 6 in. to 24 in. long and 3 in. to 6 in. wide, -flowers of a dull yellow color and a tuberous root -varying in thickness from that of a quill to ½ in. -in diameter and often a foot long, with joints or ring-like -swellings at short intervals; of, a yellowish to -orange color outside and sometimes white and sometimes -orange color inside. They are classed as long -or round tubes according to their shape. From the -root is made a kind of arrowroot much relished by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span> -the natives of India to color their faces. In medicine -it is used as a cordial or stomachic; as an anti-scorbutic, -and for stimulating the digestive organs. In a -fresh state it is given to expel intestinal worms and -in diarrhoea. It is used in varnishes and ointments -and as a dye for silks and woolens, but it is now -chiefly employed in making Indian curries or pickles, -mustard, compounds, pudding spices, chow-chow pickles. -A kind growing in Bengal, called “Mango ginger,” -from its resemblance to the mango, is used for -the same purpose as ginger.</p> - -<p>Turmeric paper is a bibulous paper, yellow from -saturation with the extract of turmeric, used as a test -for alkalies, by which it is turned brown or red. Turmeric -is also made from the roots of the canna, a -member of the same family of plants cultivated at -Sierra Leone.</p> - -<p>Turmeric is adulterated with yellow ocher and carbonate -of soda. Turmeric is insoluble in cold water, -only partly soluble in boiling water, but is quite -soluble in alcohol, forming beautiful yellow crystals.</p> - -<h3>Nasturtium</h3> - -<p>The flower buds and fruits of the common garden -nasturtium are often used as a spice after being -ground and dried; they are also pickled like capers -and used on fish, meats, etc. The name is derived -from nausa, nose, and tortus, twist, from the effects -of its pungent smell or taste.</p> - -<div class="chapter"><div class="transnote"> -<h2 class="nobreak p1" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Note</h2> - -<p>Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made -consistent when a predominant preference was found -in the original book; otherwise they were not changed.</p> - -<p>Simple typographical errors were corrected; unpaired -quotation marks were remedied when the change was -obvious, and otherwise left unpaired.</p> - -<p>A Table of Contents was added by the Transcriber.</p> - -<p>The book cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.</p> - -<p>Page <a href="#Page_28">28</a>: “the races of hands” probably should be -“the races or hands”.</p> - -<p>Page <a href="#Page_32">32</a>: “musterial” probably should be “material” -or “materials”.</p> -</div></div> - -<p> </p> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SPICES, THEIR HISTORIES***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 60192-h.htm or 60192-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/0/1/9/60192">http://www.gutenberg.org/6/0/1/9/60192</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed.</p> - -<p>Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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