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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/5761-8.txt b/5761-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..10dabff --- /dev/null +++ b/5761-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8836 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Two Trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo Volume 2 +by Richard F. Burton +(#20 in our series by Richard F. Burton) + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Two Trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo Volume 2 + +Author: Richard F. Burton + +Release Date: May, 2004 [EBook #5761] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on August 27, 2002] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: Latin1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TWO TRIPS TO GORILLA LAND AND THE CATARACTS OF THE CONGO *** + + + + +Scanned by JC Byers, (www.wollamshram.ca/1001) +Proofread by the volunteers of the Distributed Proofreaders site. +(http://charlz.dns2go.com/gutenberg/) + + + + Two Trips to + + Gorilla Land + + and + the Cataracts of the Congo. + + By + + Richard F. Burton. + + In Two Volumes + + Vol. II. + + London: 1876 + + + + +Contents of Vol. I. + +Chapter I. From Fernando Po to Loango Bay.--the German + Expedition +Chapter II. To São Paulo De Loanda +Chapter III. The Festival.--a Trip to Calumbo--portuguese + Hospitality +Chapter IV. The Cruise along Shore--the Granite Pillar of + Kinsembo +Chapter V. Into the Congo River.--the Factories.--trip to + Shark's Point.--the Padrao and Pinda +Chapter VI. Up the Congo River.--the Slave Depot.--porto Da + Lenha.-arrival at Boma +Chapter VII. Boma.--our Outfit for the Interior +Chapter VIII. A Visit to Banza Chisalla +Chapter IX. Up the Congo to Banza Nokki +Chapter X. Notes on the Nzadi or Congo River +Chapter XI. Life at Banza Nokki +Chapter XII. Preparations for the March +Chapter XIII. The March to Banza Nkulu +Chapter XIV. The Yellala of the Congo +Chapter XV. Return to the Congo Mouth +Chapter XVI. The Slaver and the Missionary in the Congo River +Chapter XVII. Concluding Remarks +Appendix:-- +I. Meteorological +II. Plants collected in the Congo, at Dahome, and the Island of + Annabom, by Mr. Consul Burton +III. Heights of Stations, West Coast of Africa, computed from + Observations made by Captain Burton +IV. Immigration Africaine + + + + + + PART II. + + The Cataracts of the Congo. + + + +"Allí o mui grande reino está de Congo, + Por nós ja convertido à fé de Christo, +Por onde o Zaire passa claro e longo, + Rio pelos antiguos nunca visto." + +"Here lies the Congo kingdom, great and strong, + Already led by us to Christian ways; +Where flows Zaïre, the river clear and long, + A stream unseen by men of olden days." + +The Lusiada, V. 13. + + + + + + Part II. + + The Cataracts of the Congo. + + Chapter I. + + From Fernando Po to Loango Bay.--the German Expedition. + + + +During the hot season of 1863, "Nanny Po," as the civilized +African calls this "lofty and beautiful island," had become a +charnel-house, a "dark and dismal tomb of Europeans." The yellow +fever of the last year, which wiped out in two months one-third +of the white colony--more exactly, 78 out of 250--had not +reappeared, but the conditions for its re-appearance were highly +favourable. The earth was all water, the vegetation all slime, +the air half steam, and the difference between wet and dry bulbs +almost nil. Thoroughly dispirited for the first time, I was +meditating how to escape, when H. M. Steamship "Torch" steamed +into Clarence Cove, and Commander Smith hospitably offered me a +passage down south. To hear was to accept. Two days afterwards +(July 29, 1863) I bade a temporary "adios" to the enemy. + +The bitterness of death remained behind as we passed out of the +baneful Bights. Wind and wave were dead against us, yet I greatly +enjoyed the gradual emerging of the sun through his shroud of +"smokes;" the increasing consciousness that a moon and stars +really exist; the soft blue haze of the sky, and the coolness of +73° F. at 6 A.M. in the captain's cabin. I had also time to enjoy +these charms. The "Torch" was not provided with "despatch- +boilers:" she was profoundly worm-eaten, and a yard of copper, +occasionally clapped on, did not prevent her making some four +feet of water a day. So we rolled leisurely along the well-known +Gaboon shore, and faintly sighted from afar Capes Lopez and St. +Catherine, and the fringing ranges of Mayumba-land, a blue line +of heights based upon gently rising banks, ruddy and white, +probably of shaly clay. The seventh day (August 5) placed us off +the well-known "red hills" of Loango-land. + +The country looks high and bold after the desperate flatness of +the Bights, and we note with pleasure that we have left behind us +the "impervious luxuriance of vegetation which crowns the +lowlands, covers the sides of the rises, and caps their summits." +During the rains after October the grass, now showing yellow +stubble upon the ruddy, rusty plain, becomes a cane fence, ten to +twelve feet tall; but instead of matted, felted jungle, knitted +together by creepers of cable size, we have scattered clumps of +dark, lofty, and broad-topped trees. A nearer view shows great +cliffs, weather-worked into ravines and basins, ribs and ridges, +towers and pinnacles. Above them is a joyful open land, +apparently disposed in two successive dorsa or steps, with bright +green tiers and terraces between, and these are pitted with the +crater-like sinks locally called "holes," so frequent in the +Gaboon country. Southwards the beauty of eternal verdure will +end, and the land will become drier, and therefore better fitted +for Europeans, the nearer it approaches Mossamedes Bay. South of +"Little Fish," again, a barren tract of white sand will show the +"Last Tree," an inhospitable region, waterless, and bulwarked by +a raging sea. + +Loango is a "pool harbour," like the ancient Portus Lemanus +(Hythe), a spit of shingle, whose bay, north-east and south-west, +forms an inner lagoon, bounded landwards by conspicuous and +weather-tarnished red cliffs. This "lingula" rests upon a base of +terra firma whose westernmost projection is Indian Point. From +the latter runs northwards the "infamous" Indian Bar, compared by +old sailors with a lengthened Bill of Portland; a reef some three +miles long, which the waves assault with prodigious fury; a +terror to slavers, especially in our autumn, when the squalls and +storms begin. The light sandy soil of the mainland rests upon +compact clay, and malaria rises only where the little drains, +which should feed the lagoon, evaporate in swamps. Here and there +are clumps of tall cocoas, a capot, pullom or wild cotton-tree, +and a neat village upon prairie land, where stone is rare as on +the Pampas. Southwards the dry tract falls into low and wooded +ground. + +The natural basin, entered by the north-east, is upwards of a +mile in length, and the narrow, ever-shifting mouth is garnished +with rocks, the sea breaking right across. Gunboats have floated +over during the rains, but at dead low water in the dry season we +would not risk the gig. Guided by a hut upon the beach fronting +French Factory and under lee of the breakers off Indian Bar, I +landed near a tree-motte, in a covelet smoothed by a succession +of sandpits. The land sharks flocked down to drag the boat over +the breakwater of shingle. They appeared small and effeminate +after the burly negroes of the Bights, and their black but not +comely persons were clad in red and white raiment. It is a tribe +of bumboat men, speaking a few words of English, French, and +Portuguese, and dealing in mats and pumpkins, parrots, and +poultry, cages, and Fetish dolls called "idols." + +Half a mile of good sandy path led to the English Factory, built +upon a hill giving a charming view. To the south-east, and some +three miles inland from the centre of the bay, we were shown +"Looboo Wood," a thick motte conspicuously crowning a ridge, and +forming a first-rate landmark. Its shades once sheltered the +nyáre, locally called buffalo, the gorilla, and perhaps the more +monstrous "impungu" (mpongo). Eastward of the Factory appears +Chomfuku, the village of Jim Potter, with a tree-clad sink, +compared by old voyagers with "the large chalkpit on Portsdown +Hill," and still much affected by picnickers. At Loanghili, or +Loanguilli, south of Looboo Wood, and upon the right bank of a +streamlet which trickles to the sea, is the cemetery, where the +kings are buried in gun-boxes. + +The Ma-Loango (for mwani, "lord" of Loango), the great despot who +ruled as far as the Congo River, who used to eat in one house, +drink in another, and put to death man or beast that saw him +feeding, is a thing of the past. Yet five miles to the eastward +(here held to be a day's march) King Monoyambi governs "big +Loango town," whose modern native name, I was told, is Mangamwár. +He shows his power chiefly by forbidding strangers to enter the +interior. + +The Factory (Messrs. Hatton and Cookson) was a poor affair of +bamboos and mats, with partition-walls of the same material, and +made pestilent by swamps to landward. Little work was then doing +in palm oil, and the copper mines of the interior had ceased to +send supplies. We borrowed hammocks to cross the swamps, and we +found French Factory a contrast not very satisfactory to our +insular pride. M. Charles de Gourlet, of the Maison Régis, was +living, not in a native hut lacking all the necessaries of +civilized man, but in a double-storied stone house, with +barracoons, hospital, public room, orchestra, and so forth, +intended for the "emigrants." Instead of water, the employés had +excellent cognac and vermouth, and a succulent cuisine replaced +the poor Britishers' two barrels of flour and biscuit. No wonder +that in our half-starved fellow countrymen we saw little of the +"national failing, a love of extravagant adventure." The +Frenchmen shoot, or at least go out shooting, twice a week, they +walk to picnics, learn something of the language, and see +something of the country. They had heard a native tradition of +Mr. Gorilla's "big brother," but they could give no details. + +I will conclude this chapter with a notice of what has taken +place on the Loango Coast a decade after my departure. Although +Africa has changed but little, Europe has, and we can hardly envy +the German nation its eminence and unexpected triumphs in war +when we see the energy and persistency with which they are +applying themselves to the arts of peace--especially of +exploration. And nowhere have they been more active than in this +part of the world, where their old rivals, the English, are +apparently contented to sit at home in ease, working their +factories and counting out their money. + +To begin with the beginning. The year 1872 found the Berlin +Geographical Society intent upon "planting a lance in Africa," +and upon extending and connecting the discoveries of Livingstone, +Du Chaillu, Schweinfurth, and other travellers. Delegates from +the various associations of Germany met in congress, and +organized (April 19, 1873) the Germanic "Afrikanische +Gesellschaft." Ex-President Dr. Adolf Bastian, a well-known +traveller in Siam, Cambodia, China, and the Indian Archipelago, +and who, moreover, had visited Ambassi or Salvador do Congo, the +old missionary capital, in 1857, was at once sent out as pioneer +and vanguard to prospect the coast for a suitable station and a +point de départ into the interior--a scientific step dictated by +trained and organized common sense. The choice of leader fell +upon Dr. Gussfeldt, Herr von Hattorf being his second in command, +and with them were associated Dr. Falkenstein as zoologist, and +Dr. Soyaux as botanist. A geologist, Dr. Lenz, of Hamburg, was +sent to connect the Ogobe and Okanda rivers with, the Loango +coast, unless he found a likely northeastern route. In this case, +the Society would take measures to supply him with the necessary +equipment. + +The expedition began unfortunately, by the loss of outfit and +instruments in the "Nigritia," wrecked off Sierra Leone: it +persevered, however, and presently met Dr. Bastian and Professor +von Gorschen at Cabinda. The former had collected much +information about the coast. He had learned from slaves that the +old kingdoms of Loango, Mahango, and Angay are bounded eastwards, +or inland, by Mayombe, a belt of forest, the threshold of the +unknown interior. It begins the up-slope to the great Ghat ridge, +which, visible after a day's journey, separates the coast from +the central basin. A fortnight or three weeks' march leads to an +open country, a land of metalliferous hills, where the people +barter their goods against gunpowder and weapons, brought by +traders from the east. These "Orientals" are now heard of almost +all along the West African coast, and doubtless, in several +places, the report will prove true. The prospector had also +visited, in search of a depôt, Futila in Cabinda-land; the +Tschiluango (Chiloango), or Cacongo River, a fine navigable +stream, where the people float down their palm oil; Landana; +"Chinsonso" (Chinxoxo, pronounced Chinshosho), Chicambo, Loango, +and the Quillu (Kwillu) stream, the latter breaking through the +coast range, disemboguing near Loango Bay, and reported to be +connected with the great Congo. He found the old despotism of +Loango to be insignificant, reduced, in fact, to the strip of +coast between the Quillu and the Luema-Lukallo Rivers. The slave +trade, once a monopoly of kings, princes, and chiefs, is now no +more; legitimate commerce has levelled ranks, and the real power +is in the hands of the wealthiest merchants. + +From the Abbé Durand, librarian of the Paris Geographical +Society, we learn: 1. That Loango is in the Province of Cacongo; +2. That Cacongo is considered a province of Loango; 3. That +Cacongo forms a kingdom of itself, with a capital, Ringwele. The +name of the late king was "Dom João, Capitão Mempolo," and, +though he had died some years ago, he was not buried, for the +usual reasons, in early 1874. Meanwhile his nephew and successor, +Mwátá Bona, was acting regent until the obsequies shall take +place. + +The station finally chosen by the German explorers was Chinxoxo, +or, as Herr Kiepert uncompromisingly writes it, +"Tschinschonkscho." It is within easy distance of the Chiloango +or "Luiza Loango" River; and its port, Landana in Cabindaland, +has become a thoroughly Europeanized settlement, with five +trading stations up stream. An empty Dutch factory was repaired, +and the house, containing a parlour, three small bed rooms, and +the usual offices, was ready for habitation by the second week in +October. + +On October 26th, Dr. Güssfeldt, after shaking off the "seasoning +fever" at Ponta Negra, proceeded to make a trial trip, and a +route survey with compass and chronometer, up the important +Quillu River. As usual, it has a bar; within the last few years +the right bank has been carried away by the floods, and some of +the old factories are under water. The average breadth is 400 +paces, which diminishes to 25 at the rocky "gates" near Kama- +Chitoma, Manyamatal and Gotu. At 29 direct miles from the mouth +lies "Chimbak," a trading station, where Dr. Güssfeldt rested and +recruited strength for a month. Thence he went leisurely up +stream to the Bumina Rapids, and found the easterly rhumb of the +river bending to the N.E. and the N.N.E.; its channel did not +exceed 50 yards in width, and precipitous rock-walls rose on +either hand. At Bumina as at Gotu the Quillu breaks through the +parallel lines of Ghats, whose trend is from N.W. to S.E.; in +fact, these "Katarakten" are the Yellalas of the Congo. A march +of four hours brought him to the Mayombe country (circ. S. Lat. +4°), which must not be confounded with the Ma-yumba or +northernmost possession of the Congo kingdom; the latter word +properly means "King of Yumba," as Ma-Loango is Mwani-Loango. The +Mayombe chief proved friendly, and assisted Dr. Güssfeldt to hire +bearers (November 7) for Yangela, where his excursion ended. The +boundary-line is marked by a large gate, like the two openings in +the wooden wall denoting the Loango frontier between the Quillu +and Luema rivers. The character of the country changed to the +normal park-like aspect of Africa above the Ghats; the dense +forests waxed thin; picturesque views presented themselves, +reminding the wayfarer of Switzerland; and bare, dome-shaped +mountains formed the background. At Nsunsi, about 2,100 feet +above sea-level, the eye ranged over the Yangela country, as far +as the land of the Batetye, whose grassy plains are traversed by +ranges trending to the W.S.W., and apparently culminating to the +south. At the Tondo village the skull of a gorilla was remarked. +The upper Quillu, after its great bend, proved to be 350 to 400 +paces broad; and the traveller ascertained that, instead of being +connected with the great artery, it rises in a lake nearly due +north of Nsundi (Sundi), near the country of the Babongo and the +Babum. Dr. Güssfeldt returned to the coast on December 2, and +prepared for the great march into the interior. + +Dr. Falkenstein, the medicus and zoologist, in November 1873 +reported favourably of Chinxoxo. The station is situated on a +hilly ridge commanding a view of the sea. "It looks imposing +enough, but it would produce more effect if we could hoist the +German flag, as the other establishments here do those of their +respective nations. German ships would then take home news of the +progress of our undertaking, and the natives would see at a +distance this token of the enterprising spirit of the German +nation, and come to us with provisions and other natural +products." He adds, "In Fernando Po, an island which I would +recommend as a sanatorium for wealthy hypochondriacs, we found an +extraordinary abundance of fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, mangoes, +delicious oranges, and pine-apples...The ivory trade on the +Gaboon is very flourishing. A German firm which I visited +exports, £10,000 worth per annum, the value of total exports +being, £26,000. The tusks are very large; one weighed about 80 +lbs., and some have ranged to 120 lbs. The other articles +exported are gum and ebony, which are brought by the natives, +especially the Fans and Mpangwes (sic) from the interior. The +slave trade is said still to be carried on by Europeans, though +it is not known where the slaves go to " (of course to São Thomé +and Prince's Island). "In the immediate vicinity of our station +the chief trade is in palm oil and ground nuts..... Rings, +chains, crosses, watches, &c., are readily taken by the savages +in exchange for native goods, and I obtained a valuable fetish +for a chain and a cross worth a silbergroschen." + +After three months spent upon the coast, and much suffering from +fever, the energetic Dr. Bastian was welcomed home on December +13, 1873. His present book[FN#1] makes only one instalment of the +work, the other being the "Correspondenzblätter der Afrikanischen +Gesellschaft." Briefly, everything has been done to lay the +foundation for success and to advertise the undertaking. Finally, +not satisfied with these steps, the German Society for the +Exploration of equatorial Africa organized in September, 1874, a +second expedition. Captain Alexander von Homeyer, a well-known +ornithologist, will lead it viâ S. Paulo de Loanda and Cassange +(Kasanji) to the mysterious lands of the Mwata ya Nvo, and thus +supplement the labours of Portuguese travellers. This fine +undertaking set out early in 1875. + + + + + + Chapter II. + + To São Paulo De Loanda. + + + +At Loango, by invitation of Commander Hoskins, R.N., I +transferred myself on board H.M. Steamship "Zebra," one of the +nymphs of the British navy, and began the 240 miles southwards. +There was no wind except a slant at sunset, and the current often +carried us as far backwards as the sails drove us onwards. The +philosophic landlubber often wonders at the eternal restlessness +of his naval brother-man, who ever sighs for a strong wind to +make the port, and who in port is ever anxious to get out of it. +I amused myself in the intervals of study with watching the huge +gulls, which are skinned and found good food at Fernando Po, and +in collecting the paper-nautilus. The Ocythoë Cranchii was often +found inside the shell, and the sea was streaked as with cotton- +flecks by lines of eggs several inches long, a mass of mucus with +fine membraneous structure adhering to the rocks, and coagulating +in spirits or salt water. The drum-fish was not heard except when +we were at anchor; its sound somewhat suggests a distant frog- +concert, and I soon learned to enjoy what M. Dufosse has +learnedly named "ichthyopsophosis," the song of the fish. Passing +Cabinda, 57 miles from Loanda, but barely in sight, we fell in +with H.M. Steamship "Espoir," Commander Douglas, who had just +made his second capture of a slave-schooner carrying some 500 +head of Congos. In these advanced days, the representative man +walks up to you as you come on board; touches his cap or his +wool, and expresses his best thanks in West Coast English; when +you offer him a dram he compares it with the trade article which +"only ‘ting, he no burn." The characteristic sights are the +captured Moleques or negrokins, who, habited in sacks to the +knees, choose an M.C. to beat time, whilst they sing in chorus, +extending the right arm, and foully abusing their late masters, +who skulk about the forecastle. + +Ten days sped by before we sighted the beginning of the end, Cape +Spilemberta and Dande Point, two bluffs in distinct serrations; +the aspect of the land was pleasant, a vista of tall cliffs, +white or red, rising wall-like from a purple sea, jagged with +sharp, black reef and "diabolito," and bearing on the summit a +plateau well grown with grass and tree. We then opened a deep +bight, which has the honour of being entitled the longest +indentation from Cape Lopez to Great Fish Bay, some 17° or a +thousand miles of coast. A gap in the cliff line and darker +vegetation showed the Zenza River, generally called Bengo from +the district (Icolo e Bengo) which it traverses. Here was once a +busy settlement much frequented by shipping, which thus escaped +harbour dues. The mosquito-haunted stream, clear in the dries, +and, as usual, muddy during the rains, supports wild duck, and, +carried some ten miles in "dongos" or flat-bottomed boats, +supplies the capital of Angola with drinking water and dysentery. + +As we glide towards the anchorage two features attract my +attention: the Morro or hill-ridge on the mainland, and the +narrow strip which forms the harbour. The escarpment, sweeping +from a meridian to a parallel, juts westward in the bluff Cape +Lagostas (Lobsters), a many-coloured face, in places not unlike +the white cliffs of Dover; it then trends from north-east to +south-west, bending at last in a picturesque bow, with a shallow +sag. The material is the tauá or blood-red marl of the Brazil, +banded with white and brown, green, chocolate, and yellow; huge +heaps of "rotten earth," washed down by the rains, cumber the +base of the ruined sea-wall north of the town; in front is a +pellucid sea with the usual trimmings, while behind roll the +upland stubbles of autumn, here mottled black with fire, there +scattered with the wild ficus and the cashew, a traveller from +the opposite hemisphere. + +The Ilha de Loanda, which gave its name to the city, according to +Mr. W. Winwood Reade ("Savage Africa," chapter xxv.), is "derived +from a native word meaning bald:" I believe it to be the Angolan +Luánda, or tribute. Forming the best harbour of the South African +coast, it is made by the missionaries of the seventeenth century +to extend some ten leagues long. James Barbot's plan (A.D. 1700) +shows seven leagues by one in breadth, disposed from north-east +to south-west, and, in the latter direction, fitting into the +"Mar Aparcelado" or shoaly sea, a curious hook-shaped bight with +a southern entrance, the "Barra de Curinba" (Corimba). But the +influences which formed the island, or rather islands (for there +are two) have increased the growth, reducing the harbour to three +and a half miles by two in breadth, and they are still +contracting it; even in the early nineteenth century large ships +floated off the custom house, and it is dry land where boats once +rode. Dr. Livingstone ("First Expedition," chapter xx.) believes +the causa causans to be the sand swept over the southern part of +the island: Douville more justly concludes that it is the gift of +the Cuanza River, whose mud and ooze, silt and débris are swept +north by the great Atlantic current. Others suppose that it +results from the meeting of the Cuanza and the Bengo streams; but +the latter outfall would be carried up coast. The people add the +washings of the Morro, and the sand and dust of the sea-shore +south of the city. + +This excellent natural breakwater perfectly shelters the shipping +from the "calemas," or perilous breakers on the seaward side, and +the surface is dotted with huts and groves, gardens and palm +orchards. At the Ponta do Norte once stood a fort appropriately +called Na. Sa. Flór de Rosa; it has wholly disappeared, but +lately, when digging near the sea, heaps of building stone were +found. Barbot here shows a "toll-house to collect the customs," +and at the southern extremity a star-shaped "Fort Fernand." + +This island was the earliest of Portuguese conquests on this part +of the coast. The Conquistador Paulo Dias de Novaes, a grandson +of Bartholomeo Dias, was sent a second time, in A.D. 1575, to +treat with the king of "Dongo," who caused trouble to trade. +Accompanied by 700 Portuguese, he reached the Cuanza River, +coasted north, and entered by the Barra de Corimba, then +accessible to caravels. He landed without opposition amongst a +population already Christianized, and, after occupying for a few +months the island, which then belonged to Congo, he founded, +during the next year, the Villa de São Paulo de Loanda on the +mainland. + +The importance of the island arose from its being the great money +bank of the natives, who here collected the zimbo, buzio, cowrie, +or cypræa moneta. Ample details concerning this industry are +given by the old writers. The shell was considered superior to +the "impure or Braziles," brought from the opposite Bahia (de +Todos os Santos), though much coarser than the small Indian, and +not better than the large blue Zanzibar. M. Du Chaillu ("Second +Expedition," chap, iv.) owns to having been puzzled whence to +derive the four sacred cowries: "They are unknown on the Fernand +Vaz, and I believe them to have come across the continent from +eastern Africa." There are, indeed, few things which have +travelled so far and have lasted so long as cowries--they have +been found even amongst "Anglo-Saxon" remains. + +The modern Muxi-Loandas hold aloof from the shore-folk, who +return the compliment in kind. They dress comparatively well, and +they spend considerable sums in their half-heathen lembamentos +(marriages) and mutambé (funerals). + +As might be expected, after three centuries of occupation, the +Portuguese, both in East and West Africa, have naturalized a +multitude of native words, supplying them with a Lusitanian +termination. The practice is very useful to the traveller, and +the despair of the lexicographer. During the matumbé the +relations "wake" the toasted, swaddled, and aromatized corpse +with a singular vigour of drink and general debauchery. + +I arrived with curiosity at the capital of Angola, the first +Portuguese colony visited by me in West Africa. The site is +pleasing and picturesque, contrasting favourably with all our +English settlements and with the French Gaboon; for the first +time after leaving Teneriffe, I saw something like a city. The +escarpment and the sea-bordering shelf, allowing a double town +like Athenæ or Thebæ, a Cidade Alta and a Cidade Baixa, are +favourites with the Lusitanians from Lisbon to the China seas, +and African São Paulo is reflected in the Brazilian Bahia. So +Greece affected the Acropolis, and Rome everywhere sought to +build a Capitol. The two lines follow the shore from north-east +to south-west, and they form a graceful amphitheatre by bending +westward at the jutting headland, Morro de São Miguel, of old de +São Paulo. Three hundred years of possession have built forts and +batteries, churches and chapels, public buildings and large +private houses,white or yellow, withample green verandahs--each +an ugly cube, but massing well together. The general decline of +trade since 1825, and especially the loss of the lucrative slave +export, leave many large tenements unfinished or uninhabited, +while the aspect is as if a bombardment had lately + +026--- taken place. Africa shows herself in heaps of filthy +hovels, wattle and daub and dingy thatch; in "umbrella-trees" +(ficus), acacias and calabashes, palms and cotton-trees, all +wilted, stunted, and dusty as at Cairo. We are in the latitude of +East African Kilwa and of Brazilian Pernambuco; but this is a +lee-land, and the suffering is from drought. Yet, curious to say, +the flora, as will appear, is here richer than in the well- +watered eastern regions. + +Steaming onwards, at one mile off shore, we turned from south- +east to south-west, and presently rounded the north-east point of +Loanda Island, where a moored boat and a lantern showed the way. +We passed the first fort, São Pedro do Morro (da Cassandama), +which reminded me of the Aguada at the mouth of Goa Harbour. The +two bastions and their batteries date from A.D. 1700, and have +been useful in administering a strongish hint--in A.D. 1826 they +fired into Captain Owen. The next work is the little four-gun +work, Na. Sa. da Conceição. We anchored in five fathoms about +1,200 yards off shore, in company with some fifteen craft, large +and small, including a neat despatch cruizer, built after the +"Nimrod" model. Fort São Francisco, called "do Penedo," because +founded upon and let into a rock, with the double-tiered +batteries à la Vauban, carefully whitewashed and subtended by any +amount of dead ground, commands the anchorage and the northern +road, where strings of carregadores, like driver-ants, fetch and +carry provisions to town. A narrow causeway connects with the +gate, where blacks on guard lounge in fantastic uniform, and +below the works are the coal-sheds. Here the first turf was +lately turned by an English commodore--this tramway was intended +to connect with the water edge, and eventually to reach the +Cuanza at Calumbo. So Portugal began the rail system in West +Africa. + +The city was preparing for her ecclesiastical festival, and I +went ashore at once to see her at her best. The landing-place is +poor and mean, and the dusty and sandy walk is garnished with a +single row of that funereal shrub, the milky euphorbia. The first +sensation came from the pillars of an unfinished house-- + + "Care colonne, che fate quà? + --Non sappiamo in verità!" + +The Ponta de Isabel showed the passeio, or promenade, with two +brick ruins: its "five hundred fruit-trees of various +descriptions" have gone the way of the camphor, the tea-shrub, +and the incense-tree, said to have been introduced by the +Jesuits. "The five pleasant walks, of which the central one has +nine terraces, with a pyramid at each extremity, and leads to the +Casa de Recreio, or pleasure-house of the governor-general, +erected in 1817 by Governor Vice-Admiral Luiz da Motta Feio," +have insensibly faded away; the land is a waste, poor grazing +ground for cattle landed from the south coast, whilst negrokins +scream and splash in the adjoining sea. + +Beyond the Government gardens appears the old Ermida (chapel), Na +Sa. da Nazareth, which English writers have dubbed, after +Madeiran fashion, the Convent. The frontage is mean as that of +colonial ecclesiastical buildings in general, and even the +epauletted façades of old São Paulo do not deserve a description. +Here, according to local tradition, was buried the head of the +"intrepid and arrogant king of Congo," Dom Antonio, whose 100,000 +warriors were defeated at Ambuilla (Jan. ist, 1666) by Captain +Luiz Lopes de Sequeira, the good soldier who lost his life, by a +Portuguese hand, at the battle of Matamba (Sept. 4th, 1681). A +picture in Dutch tiles (azulejos) was placed on the right side of +the altar to commemorate the feat. + +After the Ermida are more ruined houses and ragged plantations +upon the narrow shelf between the sea-cliff and the sea: they +lead to the hot and unhealthy low town skirting the harbour, a +single street with small offsets. A sandy strip spotted with +cocoa-nuts, represents the Praia do Bungo (Bungo Beach), perhaps +corrupted from Bunghi, a praça, or square; it debouches upon the +Quitanda Pequena, a succursale market-place, where, on working- +days, cloth and beads, dried peppers, and watered rum are sold. +Then come a single large building containing the Trem, or +arsenal, the cavalry barracks, the "central post-office," and the +alfandega, or custom-house, which has a poor platform, but no +pier. The stables lodge some half-a-dozen horses used by mounted +orderlies--they thrive, and, to judge from their high spirits, +the climate suits them. In Captain Owen's time (A.D. 1826) there +was "a respectable corps of cavalry." + +Passing the acting cathedral for the See of Angola and Congo, +which deserves no notice, you reach the Quitanda Grande, where +business is brisker. There is a sufficiency of beef and mutton, +the latter being thin-tailed, and not "five-quartered." Fish is +wisely preferred to meat by the white man, "affirming that it is +much easier digested;" and a kind of herring, and the sparus +known upon the Brazilian coast as the "tainha," the West African +"vela," and the French "mulet," at times superabound. All the +tropical fruits flourish, especially the orange; the exotic +vegetables are large and sightly, but tasteless and insipid, +especially peas and radishes: the indigenous, as tomatoes, are +excellent, but the list is small. Gardens are rare where the soil +is so thin, and the indispensable irrigation costs money. The +people still "choke for want of water," which must be bought: +there is only one good well sunk in the upper town, about 1840, +when the Conde de Bomfim was Minister of Marine and the +Colonies,--it is a preserve for government officials. Living in +the native style is cheap; but cooks are hardly procurable, and a +decent table is more expensive than in an English country town. A +single store (M. Schutz) supplies "Europe" articles, of course at +fancy prices, and here a travelling outfit may be bought. It has +been remarked that Loanda has no shop that sells "food for the +mind;" this is applicable, not only to all East and West Africa, +but to places far more progressive. A kind of cafe-billard +supplies a lounge and tepid beer. The attendants in Portuguese +houses are slaves; the few English prefer Cabindas, a rude form +of the rude Kru-boy, and the lowest pay of the lowest labourer is +5d. per diem. + +The "Calçada Nova," a fine old paved "ramp"--to speak Gibraltar- +English--connects Basse Ville and Hauteville. The latter was once +a scatter of huge if not magnificent buildings, now in ruins; we +shall pass through it en route to Calumbo. Here are the remains +of the three chief convents, the Jesuit, the Carmelite, and the +Third Order of St. Francis. The citadel de São Miguel, lately +blown up, has been restored; the extensive works of dressed +freestone, carefully whitewashed, stand out conspicuously from +the dark bush dotting the escarpment top. Here also is the Alto +das Cruzes, the great cemetery, and the view from the sheer and +far-jutting headland is admirable. A stroll over this cool and +comparatively healthy escarpment ended by leaving a card at the +Paço do Governo. + +Lopes de Lima (vol. iii. part ii.) gives São Paulo in 1846 a +total of 5,065 whites, mulattoes, and blacks, distributed into +1,176 hearths; the census of 1850-51 raised the number to 12,000, +including 7,000 negroes, of whom 5,000 were serviles; in 1863 the +figure was understood to have diminished rather than to have +increased. Old authors divided the population into five orders. +The first was of ecclesiastics, the second contained those who +were settled for command or trade, and the third were convicts, +especially new Christians of Jewish blood, who were prevented +from attending the sacred functions for a scandalous reason. Then +ranked the Pomberos, or Pombeiros, mostly mulattoes, free men, +and buyers of slaves; their morals seem to have been abominable. +Last and least were the natives, that is, the "chattels." Amongst +the latter the men changed wives for a time, "alleging, in case +of reproof, that they are not able to eat always of the same +dish;" and the women were rarely allowed by their mistresses to +marry--with the usual results. The missionaries are very severe +upon the higher ranks of colonists. Father Carli (A.D. 1666) +found the whites the most deceitful and the wickedest of men,--an +effect caused by the penal settlement. Father Merolla (A.D. 1682) +declares that "the women, being bred among blacks, suffer +themselves to be much perverted--they scarcely retain anything +white about them except their skins." J. C. Fêo Cardoso (Memoir +published in Paris in 1825) attributes the decadence of Angola +and Benguela to three reasons; rare marriages amongst the higher +orders; poverty amongst the lower; and the immorality and +incontinence of both. Lopes de Lima (p. 149 loc. cit.) traces the +decline and fall of Christianity in the eighteenth century to the +want of priests, to the corruption of the regular clergy +(Carmelites and Franciscans), for whom West Africa, like Syria +and Palestine, was made a kind of convict station, and to the +inhuman slave-export, as opposed to domestic slavery. All has now +changed for the better; society in Angola is not a whit inferior +to that of any English colony in West Africa, and, as a convict +establishment, Loanda is a great success. + +The theoretical garrison is one regiment of the line, a squadron +of cavalry, and two companies of artillery with three-pounders; +the real force is of some 800 men, mostly convicts. No difference +is made between white and black, nor is the corps force, which +was once very cruelly used, severely treated as the Légion +Etrangère of Algeria. Most of the men have been found guilty of +capital crimes, yet they are allowed to carry arms, and they are +intrusted with charge of the forts. Violence is almost unheard of +amongst them: if an English sailor be stabbed, it is generally by +the free mulattoes and blacks, who hate the uniform for +destroying their pet trade of man-selling. It is true that these +convicts have hopes of pardon, but I prefer to attribute their +remarkable gentleness and good behaviour to the effects of the +first fever, which, to quote from the Latin grammar, + + "Emollit mores nec sinit esse feros." + +The negroes of Loanda struck me as unusually ill-favoured; short, +"stumpy," and very dark, or tinged with unclean yellow. Lepers +and hideous cripples thrust their sores and stumps in the face of +charity. There was no local colouring compared with the +carregadores, or coolies, from the northeast, whose thrum-mop +heads and single monkey skins for fig-leaves, spoke of the wold +and the wild. The body-dress of both sexes is the tángá, pagne, +or waist-cloth, unless the men can afford trousers and ragged +shirts, and the women a "veo preto," or dingy black sheet, +ungracefully worn, like the graceful sárí of Hindostan, over the +bright foulard which confines the wool. "It is mighty ridiculous +to observe," says the old missionary, "that the women, contrary +to the custom of all other nations, buy and sell, and do all +things which the men ought to do, whilst their husbands stay at +home and spin or weave cotton, or busy themselves in such other +effeminate actions." This is not wholly true in ‘63. The +"munengana,"or machila-man, is active in offering his light cane +palanquin, and he chaffs the "mean white" who is compelled to +walk, bitterly as did the sedan-chairmen of Bath before the days +of Beau Nash. Of course the Quitandeira, or market-woman, holds +her own. The rest of the street population seems to consist of +negro "infantry" and black Portuguese pigs, gaunt and long- +legged. The favourite passe-temps is to lie prone in sun or +shade, chattering and smoking the cachimbo, a heavy clay pipe, +with peculiar stem--"to sleep supine," say the Arabs, "is the +position of saints; on the dexter side, of kings; on the +sinister, of learned men; and on the belly, of devils." + + + + + + Chapter III. + + The Festival--a Trip to Calumbo--portuguese Hospitality. + + + +My first step after reaching S. Paolo de Loanda was to call upon +Mr. Commissioner Vredenburg, who had lately taken up the +undesirable appointment, and who, moreover, had brought a pretty +French wife from Pará. I had warned him that he was risking her +life and that of her child; he bravely made the attempt and +nearly lost them both. I have reason to be grateful to him and to +Mr. Vice-consul E. H. Hewett for hospitality during my stay at +the Angolan capital. There is a place called an hotel, but it is +in the Seven Dials of the African city, and--nothing more need be +said. + +Fortunately for me, as for herself, Loanda had got rid of Mr. +Vredenburg's predecessor, who soon followed the lamented Richard +Brand, first British Consul, appointed in 1844. The "real whole- +hearted Englishman" was after that modern type, of which La +Grundy so highly approves. An honest man, who does not hold to +the British idea that "getting on in the world" is Nature's first +law, would be sorely puzzled by such a career. + +The day after my arrival was the festival which gives to São +Paulo de Loanda its ecclesiastical name "da Assumpção." The +ceremonies of the day were duly set forth in the Boletim Official +do Governo Geral da Provincia de Angola. A military salute and +peals of bells aroused us at dawn; followed a review of the +troops, white and black; and a devout procession, flags flying +and bands playing, paced through the chief streets to the +Cathedral. A visit of ceremony in uniform to the Governor- +General, Captain José Baptista de Andrade, a historic name in +Angola, led to an invitation for the evening, a pleasant soirée +of both sexes. The reception was cordial: whatever be the +grievances of statesmen and historians, lawyers and slave- +mongers, Portuguese officers are always most friendly to their +English brethren. The large and airy rooms were hung with +portraits of the several dignitaries, and there was an Old World +look about Government House, like the Paço at Pangim (Goa). Fifty +years ago colonial society was almost entirely masculine; if you +ever met a white woman it was in a well-curtained manchila +surrounded by "mucambas" or "mucacamas, negro waiting maids:" as +the old missioner tells us, "when they go abroad, which is +seldom, they are carried in a covered net with attendance of +captives." All this is changed, except as regards leaving the +house, which is never done during the day: constitutionals are +not wanted in the tropics, and the negroes everywhere make the +streets unfit, except for any but the very strongest-minded of +the weaker sex. The evenings at Government House are passed with +music and dancing, and petits jeux innocents for the juniors, +whilst the seniors talk and play voltarete till midnight. I well +remember one charming face, but I fear to talk about it--ten +years in Africa cannot pass without the saddest changes. + +With an eye to future exploration, I was anxious to see something +of the style of travel in Angola, and to prospect the proposed +line of railway intended to checkmate the bar of the river +Cuanza. The Cassange (Kasanjí) war on the eastern frontier had +just ended honourably to Portuguese arms, but it proved costly; +the rich traffic of the interior had fallen off, and the well- +known Feira was sending down its fairings to independent +Kinsembo. Moreover, in order to raise funds for the rail, the +local Government talked of granting the land to an English +company for growing the highly prized gossypium arboreum. + +Sr. João Soares Caldeira, C.E., kindly asked me to join his +party, which started early on August 19. All rode the tipoia, a +mere maca or hammock sadly heating to the back, but handier than +the manchila: the bearers wore loose waistbelts, with a dozen +small sheep's bells on the crupper, intended to proclaim our +importance, and supposed to frighten away wild beasts. These +gentry often require the stimulus of "ndokwe" (go on), but seldom +the sedative of "malemba" (gently) or "quinga" (stop). The "boi- +cavallo," the riding bull (not ox) of the interior, which costs +about £4, is never used in these fashionable localities. I failed +to remark the line of trenches supposed to defend the land-side, +but I did remark the "maiangas," said to be indigo vats made by +the Jesuits. After a hot depression we ascended a rough zigzag, +and halting we enjoyed a charming view of St. Paul. The domed +Morro concealing the squalid lower town was crowned with once +lordly buildings--cathedral, palace, treasury, and fort; the +colours of the ground-swell were red and white, with here and +there a dot of green; and the blue sea rose in its loveliness +beyond the hill horizon. For a whole league we were in the region +of "arimos," or outside farms, where villages, villas, and +plantations, threaded by hot and sandy lanes with hedges of green +euphorbia, showed the former prosperity of the country. Beyond it +the land forms, as in Yoruba, lines of crescents bulging west or +seaward, quartz and pebbles showing here and there an old true +coast. + +After a five hours' ride we reached Cavúa, the half-way house, +where breakfast had been sent on; the habitations are wretched +thatches, crowded with pigs and mosquitoes. Clearings had all +ended, and the red land formed broken waves of poor soil, almost +nude of vegetation at this mid-winter of the tropics, except +thickets of "milk plant" and forests of quadrangular cactus; the +latter are quaint as the dragon-tree, some twenty feet tall and +mostly sun-scorched to touchwood. The baobab (adansonia) is +apparently of two kinds, the "Imbundeiro," hung with long- +stringed calabashes, which forms swarming-places for bees; and +the "Aliconda" (Nkondo), whose gourd is almost sessile, and whose +bark supplies fibre for cloth and ropes. The haskúl or big-aloe +of Somali-land was not absent, and, amongst other wild fruits, I +saw scattered over the ground the husks of a strychnine, like the +east African species. Deer, hares, and partridges are spoken of +in these solitudes, but they must be uncommonly hard to find at +such a season. + +About three hours after leaving Cavúa were spent upon this high, +dry, and healthy desert, when suddenly we sighted the long +reaches of the Cuanza River, sharply contrasting, like the Nile, +with the tawny yellow grounds about its valley. A steep descent +over water-rolled pebbles showed the old bank; the other side, +far and blue, gave a goodly breadth of five miles; then we +plunged into the green selvage of the modern stream, following +muddy paths where the inundation had extended last June. Here +tobacco, orchilla, and indigo in the higher, and sugar-cane, +rice, and ricinus on the lower lands flourish to perfection. The +Angolan orchilla was first sent to Lisbon by Sr. F. R. Batalha: +it is a moss, like the tillandsia of the Southern United States, +and I afterwards recognized it in the island of Annobom. Passing +Pembe and other outlying hamlets, after nine hours of burning +sun, we entered Calumbo Town, and were hospitably lodged by the +Portuguese Commandant. We had followed the highway, as a line for +the intended railway had not yet been marked out, and the +distance measured 33,393 metres (= 20.75 English miles). + +Calumbo is now a poor place, with a few dilapidated stone houses +in a mass of wattle and daub huts, surrounded by large "arimos." +The whole "Districto da Barra do Calumbo" contains only 444 +hearths. A little stone pier, which Loanda wants, projects into +the stream; the lime was formerly procured from shells, but in +1761 calcareous stone was found near the Dande stream. The +sightliest part is the vegetation, glorious ceibas (bombax) used +for dug-outs; baobabs, tamarinds which supply cooling fruit and +distilled waters; limes and bitter oranges. The most remarkable +growth is the kaju or cashew nut: an old traveller quaintly +describes it "as like St. John's apple with a chestnut at the end +of it." M. Valdez ("Six Years of a Traveller's Life," vol. ii. +267), calls it "a strange kind of fruit," though it was very +familiar to his cousins in the Brazil, of which it is an +aborigine. Here it is not made into wine as at Goa: "Kaju-brandy" +is unknown, and the gum, almost equal to that of the acacia, is +utterly neglected. A dense and shady avenue of these trees, ten +paces apart, leads from the river to the parish church of S. +José, mentioned by Carli in 1666: an inscription informs us that +it was rebuilt in 1850, but the patron is stored away in a +lumber-room, and the bats have taken the place of the priest. +Portugal has perhaps gone too far in abolishing these church +establishments, but it is a reaction which will lead to the +golden mean. + +The site of Calumbo is well chosen, commanding a fine view, and +raised above the damps of the cold Cuanza, whose stagnant lagoon, +the Lagôa do Muge on the other side, is divided from the main +branch by a low islet with palms and some cultivation. At the +base of Church Hill are huts of the Mubiri or blacksmiths, who +gipsy-like wander away when a tax is feared; they are not +despised, but they are considered a separate caste. I was shown a +little north of the town a place where the Dutch, true to their +national instincts, began a canal to supply Loanda with sweet and +wholesome drinking material and water communication; others place +it with more probability near the confluence of the Cuanza and +the Lucala, the first great northern fork, where Massangano was +built by the Conquistadores. This "leat" was left incomplete, the +terminus being three miles from St. Paul's; the Governor-General +José de Oliveira Barbosa, attempted to restore it, but was +prevented by considerations of cost. + +Calumbo must be a gruesome place to all except its natives. +Whilst Loanda has improved in climate since Captain Owen's day +(1826), this has become deadly as Rome in 1873. The raw mists in +early morning and the hot suns, combined with the miasmas of the +retreating waters, sometimes produce a "carneirado" (bilious +remittent) which carries off half the inhabitants. Dysenteries +are everywhere dangerous between the Guinea Coast and Mossamedes, +the cause being vile water. All the people looked very sickly; +many wore milongos, Fetish medicines in red stripes, and not a +few had whitewashed faces in token of mourning. I observed that +my Portuguese companions took quinine as a precaution. Formerly a +few foreign merchants were settled here, but they found the hot +seasons fatal, and no wonder, with 130° (F.) in the shade! The +trade from the upper river, especially from the Presidio das +Pedras Negras de Pungo Andongo,[FN#2] consists of hides, cattle +tame and wild (cefos); saltpetre washed from earth in sieves, +mucocote or gum anime (copal), said by Lopes de Lima to be found +in all the forests of Pungo Andongo; wax, white and yellow; oil +of the dendêm (Elaïs Guineënsis) and mandobim, here called +ginguba (arachis); mats, manioc-flour, and sometimes an ivory. + +Calumbo was built as early as 1577 by the Conquistador Porcador +and first Capitão Mór Paulo Dias II., a gallant soldier, who died +in 1589 at Massangano, the "Presidium," which he had founded +between 1580-83, and who was buried in the Church of Na. Sa. da +Vittoria; he is said also to have built the Church of Santa Cruz. +Equidistant from Loanda and the sea, the settlement soon had a +wealthy trade with the fortified stations of the interior, and +large Government stores filled with merchandize. In 1820 a number +of schooners, pinnaces, and small crafts plied up and down to +Muchimo, Massangano, Cambembe, and other inland settlements; now +we find out only a few canoes. The Cuanza at "Sleepers' Bay" has +one of the worst shifting bars on the whole coast. At this +distance, five leagues from the mouth, its width is one hundred +fathoms, and the depth varies from eight to nine. It breeds good +fish; the manatus is common, people talk of fresh-water sharks, +and the jacare (crocodile) is fatal to many a pig even in the +village. It is navigable for schooners, they say, six days, or +150 miles, to the large "Presidio de Cambembe," where Andrew +Battel (1589-1600) visited a "perpendicular water-fall, which +made such a noise as to be heard thirty miles' distance." This +and another water-fall higher up are laid down in the map of Dr. +Livingstone's admirable first journey. Above Cambembe the river- +bed is broken by archipelagoes, and the shoals render it fit only +for boats. The Cuanza head has been explored only lately, +although a royal order to that effect was issued on March 14, +1800. + +After receiving and returning the visits of the principal whites, +all habited in frocks and continuations of the blackest and +heaviest broadcloth, we feasted with the excellent commandant, +who was hospitality itself. The mosquitoes soon roused us from +any attempt at sleep, and we passed the night after a fashion +which sometimes leads to red eyes and "hot coppers" in the +morning. I left early, for my companions had business at Calumbo; +as they were no longer present to control the bearers, a race +soft as putty, and I was not used to manage them, the gang became +unbearable. The soldier sent to keep them in order did his best +with his "supple-jack," and the consequence was that all bolted +into the bush. At Cavúa two men were forcibly enlisted, but I +preferred walking in. When at home in the Red House (Mr. +Hewett's) the hammock men came complaining of my deserting them, +and begging bakhshish. + +It was another lesson to me--the Gaboon had lately administered +one--that, however well you may know the negro generally, each +tribe requires a specific study. This, however, would not take +long, and with a little knowledge of the language there would be +no difficulty in following the footsteps of Joaquim Rodrigues +Graça; letters would be required to the several commandants, the +season of setting out should be in early Cacimbo (April), and the +up march would take six months, with about four to return. But, +unless active measures are adopted, only the seaboard will remain +to the Portuguese. This is an exploration which I had kept "dark" +for myself; but Captain von Homeyer has gained the day, and +nothing remains for me but to give the gallant officer God speed. +After a short but exceedingly pleasant visit, I left the capital +of Angola with regret. All seemed anxious to further my views of +travel; the authorities gave me the very best advice, and offered +me introductions to all the district commandants, Sr. Moses +Abecasis, and Sr. Francisco A. Flores, Sir Henry Huntley's host, +obliged me with recommendations to the most influential agents at +Porto da Lenha on the Congo River. Mr. Essex of St. Helena placed +me in the hands of his compatriot, Mr. Scott, and Captain +Hoskins, R.N., ended his kindness with ordering for me a passage +on board H.M. Steamship "Griffon," an old acquaintance in the +Gaboon River. Briefly, I quitted São Paulo with the best wishes +for one and all who had befriended me. + + + + + + Chapter IV. + + The Cruise along Shore--the Granite Pillar of Kinsembo. + + + +On August 22nd we left Loanda, and attacked the 180 miles +separating it from the Congo mouth. Steaming along shore we +enjoyed the vanishing perspective of the escarpment disappearing +in the misty distance. The rivers Bengo, Dande, and Onze are +denoted by densely wooded fissures breaking the natural sea-wall, +and, as usual in West Africa, these lines are the favourite sites +for settlements. The Onze or the Lifune of Mazula Bay--which the +Hydrographic Chart (republished March 18, 1869) changes into +"River Mazulo," and makes the mouth of the "River Onzo"--is +chosen by Bowdich and writers of his day as the northern boundary +of Angola, greatly to the disgust of the Portuguese, whose +pretensions extend much farther north. Volumes of daily smoke and + +048--- nightly flame suggest the fires of St. John lighted by the +goatherds of Tenerife. They greatly excite the gallant +"Griffons," who everywhere see slaver-signals, and the system is +old upon this coast as the days of Hanno and Herodotus. At this +season they are an infallible sign that the dries are ending; the +women burn the capim (tall grass) for future forage, and to +manure the land for manioc, maize, and beans. The men seek +present "bush-beef:" as the flames blow inland, they keep to +seaward, knowing that game will instinctively and infallibly +break cover in that direction, and they have learned the +"wrinkle" of the prairie traveller to make a "little Zoar" in +case of accidental conflagration. + +At 2 P.M. on the 24th we were abreast of Ambriz, an important +settlement, where a tall red and white cliff, with a background +of broken blue hill, showed a distinct "barra," or river mouth, +not to be confounded with the English "bar." The north point of +the Rio dos Ambres, of the "green" or "raw copal," is low and +mangrove-grown, throwing into high relief its sister formation, +Ambriz Head or Strong-Tide Corner, which stands up gaunt and +bluff. + +A little to the south-east lies the fort, flying the argent and +azure flag, and garrisoned by some 200 men; five large +whitewashed houses and the usual bunch of brown huts compose the +settlement. This nest of slavers was temporarily occupied in May +15, 1855. The Governor-General, Senor Coelho de Amaral, +reinforced by 1,000 soldiers from home, and levying 2,500 +"Empacasseiros,"[FN#3] embarked from Loanda in the "Dorn +Fernando" frigate, landed here, once more burnt the barracoons, +and built the fort. In 1856 a force was sent under Colonel +Francisco Salles Ferreira, to re-open a communication with the +Bembe mines of copper and malachite. That energetic officer +marched on São Salvador, the old capital of Congo, and crowned +Dom Pedro V., whose predecessor died the year before. He there +fell a victim to fever, and his second in command, Major Andrade, +was nearly cut off on his return. Shortly afterwards the natives +blockaded, but were driven from, Bembe, and they attempted in +vain to carry Ambriz. + +The far-famed copper mines were granted to the Portuguese in the +sixteenth century by the King of Congo. They were the property of +his feudatory, the (black) "Marquess of Pemba" (Bembe): Barbot +mentions their being mistaken for gold, and feels himself bound +to warn his readers that the metal was brought "from Sondy, not +from Abyssinia or the empire of Prester John." They lost all +their mystery about A.D. 1855, when they were undertaken by an +English company, Messrs. John Taylor & Co. of London, after +agreement with the concessionists, Messrs. Francisco A. Flores +and Pinto Perez of Loanda. Between Ambriz and Bembe, on the +Lunguila (Lufula?) River, and 770 feet above sea-level, the +Angolan government built four presidios, Matuta, Quidilla, +Quileala, and Quimalenco. But the garrison was not strong enough +to keep the country quiet, and the climate proved deadly to white +men. The 24 sappers and 60 linesmen extracted nearly 4,000 lbs. +of gangue per diem, when the English manager and his assistant, +with four of the ten miners died, and the plant was destroyed by +fire. I was assured that this line (Ambriz-Bembe) was an easy +adit to the interior, and so far the information is confirmed by +the late Livingstone-Congo Expedition under Lieutenant Grandy. + +In 1863 the coast was still in confusion. The Portuguese claimed +too much seaboard according to the British: the British +government ignored the just claims of Portugal, and the political +bickerings were duly embittered by a demoralized race of English +traders, who perpetually applied for cruisers, complaining that +the troops interfered with their trade. Even in the seventeenth +century the Portuguese had asserted their rights to the Reino do +Congo, extending between the great stream of that name and the +Ambriz, also called the Loge and Doce River. In the older maps-- +for instance, Lopes de Lima--the Loge is an independent stream +placed north of the Ambriz River; in fact, it represents the Rue +or Lue River of Kinsembo, which is unknown to our charts. Within +the Doce and the Cuanza lies the Reino de Angola, of which, they +say, the Congo was a dependency, and south of the Cuanza begins +the Reino de Benguela. The Government-General of Loanda thus +contained four provinces-Congo (now reduced to Ambriz), Angola, +Benguela, and Mossamedes. The English government has now agreed +to recognize the left or southern bank of the Ambriz as the +northern frontier of Angola and of Portuguese rule. + +Passing the river mouth, we were alongside of independent lands, +and new to us. Boobies (Pelecanus sula), gulls, petrels, and men- +of-war birds (P. aquila), flew about the ship; according to the +experts, they were bound for fetid marshes which outlie the Loge +River. Before nightfall we were off the Lue or Rue River of +Kinsembo, which disputes with Landána (not "Landano"[FN#4]) the +palm of bad landing. At this season boats are + +052--- sometimes kept waiting fourteen days, and the "barreiras" +(cliffs) are everywhere at unbounded war with the waters. I +determined to land and to inspect the "remarkable lofty granite +pillar," which was dimly visible from our deck; but we rowed in +vain along the tall and rusty sea-walls. No whaler could attack +the huge rollers that raised their monstrous backs, plunged over +with a furious roar, and bespread the beach with a swirl of foam. +At last, seeing a fine surf-boat, artistically raised at stern +and bow, and manned by Cabindas, the Kruboys of the coast, made +fast to a ship belonging to Messrs. Tobin of Liverpool, we +boarded it, and obtained a passage. + +The negroes showed their usual art. Paddling westward they +rounded the high red and white South Point, where a projecting +reef broke the rollers. We waited for some twenty minutes for a +lull; at the auspicious moment every throat was strained by a +screaming shout, and the black backs bent doughtily to their +work. We were raised like infants in the nurse's arms; the good +craft was flung forward with the seething mass, and as she +touched shore we sprang out, whilst our conveyance was beached by +a crowd of stragglers. The dreaded bar is as usual double: in the +heaviest weather boats make for a solitary palm-tree at the +bottom of the sandy bay. Some of the dug-outs are in pairs like +the Brazilian Ajoujo; the sides are lashed together or fastened +by thwarts, and both are made to bend a little too much inwards. + +It was dark when we climbed up the stiff Jacob's ladder along the +landward side of the white Kinsembo bluff. There are three ramps: +the outermost is fit only for unshod feet; the central is better +for those who can squeeze through the rocky crevices, and the +furthest is tolerably easy; but it can be reached only by +canoeing across the stream. Mr. Hunter of Messrs. Tobin's house +received us in the usual factory of the South Coast, a ground- +floor of wicker-work, windowless, and thatched after native +fashion. The chief agent, who shall be nameless, was drunk arid +disorderly: it is astonishing that men of business can trust +their money to such irresponsible beings; he had come out to +Blackland a teetotaller, and presently his condition became a +living lecture upon geographical morality. + +The night gave us a fine study of the Kinsembo mosquito, a large +brown dipter, celebrated even upon this coast. A barrel of water +will act as nursery; at times the plagues are said to extinguish +a lantern, and to lie an inch deep at the bottom. I would back +them against a man's life after two nights of full exposure: the +Brazilian "Marimbondo" is not worse. At 7 A.M. on the next day we +descended the easiest of the ramps, which are common upon this +coast, and were paddled over the Kinsembo River. Eleven miles +off, it issues from masses of high ground, and at this season it +spreads out like the Ambriz in broad stagnant sheets, bordered +with reeds and grass supplying fish and crabs, wild ducks and +mosquitoes. Presently, when the Cacimbo ends in stormy rains and +horrid rollers, its increased volume and impetus will burst the +sand-strip which confines it, and the washed-away material will +recruit the terrible bar. + +Leaving the ferry, wre mounted the "tipoias," which Englishmen +call "hammocks" after the Caribs of Jamaica, and I found a +strange contrast between the men of Kinsembo and of São Paulo. +The former are admirable bearers, like their brethren of +Ambrizette, famed as the cream of the coast: four of them carried +us at the rate of at least six miles an hour; apparently they +cannot go slowly, and they are untireable as black ants. Like the +Bahian cadeira-men, they use shoulder-pads, and forked sticks to +act as levers when shifting; the bamboo-pole has ivory pegs, to +prevent the hammock-clews slipping, and the sensation is somewhat +that of being tossed in a blanket. + +Quitting the creeper-bound sand, we crossed a black and fetid +mire, and struck inland to a higher and drier level. The +vegetation was that of the Calumbo road, but not so utterly +sunburnt: there were dwarf fields of Manioc and Thur (Cajanus +indicus), and the large wild cotton shrubs showed balls of +shortish fibre. As we passed a euphorbia-hedged settlement, +Kizúlí yá Mú, "Seabeach Village," a troop of women and girls, +noisy as those of Ugogo, charged us at full gallop: a few silver +bits caused prodigious excitement in the liberal display of +charms agitated by hard exercise. The men were far less +intrusive, they are said not to be jealous of European rivals, +but madly so amongst themselves: even on suspicion of injury, the +husband may kill his wife and her lover. + +At Kilwanika, the next hamlet, there was a "king;" and it would +not have been decent to pass the palace unvisited. Outside the +huts stood a bamboo-girt "compound," which we visited whilst H.M. +was making his toilette, and where, contrary to Congo usage, the +women entered with us. Twenty-two boys aged nine or ten showed, +by faces whitened with ashes, that they had undergone +circumcision, a ceremony which lasts three months: we shall find +these Jinkimba in a far wilder state up the Congo. The rival +house is the Casa das Tinta, where nubile girls are decorated by +the Nganga, or medicine-man, with a greasy crimson-purple pigment +and, preparatory to entering the holy state of matrimony, receive +an exhaustive lecture upon its physical phases. Father Merolla +tells us that the Congoese girls are locked up in pairs for two +or three months out of the sight of man, bathing several times a +day, and applying "taculla," the moistened dust of a red wood; +without this "casket of water" or "of fire," as they call it, +barrenness would be their lot. After betrothal the bride was +painted red by the "man-witch" for one month, to declare her +engagement, and the mask was washed off before nuptials. Hence +the "Paint House" was a very abomination to the good Fathers. +Amongst the Timni tribe, near Sierra Leone, the Semo, or +initiation for girls, begins with a great dance, called Colungee +(Kolangí), and the bride is "instructed formally in such +circumstances as most immediately concern women." + +After halting for half an hour, ringed by a fence of blacks, we +were summoned to the presence, where we found a small boy backed +by a semi-circle of elders, and adorned with an old livery coat, +made for a full-grown "Jeames." With immense dignity, and without +deigning to look at us, he extended a small black paw like a +Chimpanzee's, and received in return a promise of rum--the sole +cause of our detention. And, as we departed through the euphorbia +avenue, we were followed by the fastest trotters, the Flora +Temples and the Ethan Allens, of the village. + +Beyond Kilwanika the land became rougher and drier, whilst the +swamps between the ground-waves were deeper and stickier, the +higher ridges bearing natural Stonehenges, of African, not +English, proportions At last we dismounted, ascended a rise, the +most northerly of these "Aravat Hills," and stood at the base of +the "Lumba" The Pillar of Kmsembo is composed of two huge blocks, +not basaltic, but of coarse-grained reddish granite the base +measures twenty and the shaft forty feet high. With a little +trimming it might be converted into a superior Pompey's Pillar: +we shall see many of these monoliths in different parts of the +Congo country. + +The heat of the day was passed in the shade of the Lumba, +enjoying the sea-breeze and the novel view. It was debated +whether we should return viâ Masera, a well-known slaving +village, whose barracoons were still standing. But the bearers +dissuaded us, declaring that they might be seized as "dash," +unless the white men paid heavy "comey" like those who shipped +black cargoes: they cannot shake off this old practice of +claiming transit money. So we returned without a halt, covering +some twelve of the roughest miles in two hours and a quarter. + +The morning of the 26th showed an ugly sight from the tall +Kinsembo cliff. As far as the eye could reach long green-black +lines, fronted and feathered with frosted foam, hurried up to the +war with loud merciless roars, and dashed themselves in white +destruction against the reefs and rock-walls. We did not escape +till the next day. + +Kinsembo does not appear upon the old maps, and our earliest +hydrographic charts place it six miles wrong.[FN#5] The station +was created in 1857-61 by the mistaken policy of Loanda, which +determined to increase the customs three per cent, and talked of +exacting duties at Ambriz, not according to invoice prices, but +upon the value which imported goods represented amongst the +natives. It was at once spread abroad that the object was to +drive the wax and ivory trade to São Paulo, and to leave Ambriz +open to slavers. The irrepressible Briton transferred himself to +Kinsembo, and agreed to pay the king £9 in kind, after "country +fashion," for every ship. In 1857 the building of the new +factories was opposed by the Portuguese, and was supported by +English naval officers, till the two governments came to an +arrangement. In February, 1860, the Kinsembo people seized an +English factory, and foully murdered a Congo prince and +Portuguese subject, D. Nicoláo de Agua Rosada, employed in the +Treasury Department, Ambriz. Thereupon the Governor-General sent +up two vessels, with thirty guns and troops; crossed the Loge +River, now a casus belli; and, on March 3rd, burned down the +inland town of Kinsembo. On the return march the column debouched +upon the foreign factories. About one mile in front of the point, +Captain Brerit, U.S. Navy, and Commander A. G. Fitzroy, R.N., had +drawn up 120 of their men by way of guard. Leave was asked by the +Portuguese to refresh their troops, and to house six or seven +wounded men. The foreign agents, headed by a disreputable M--M--, +now dead, protested, and, after receiving this unsoldierlike +refusal, the Portuguese, harassed by the enemy, continued their +return march to Ambriz. The natives of this country have an +insane hate for their former conquerors, and can hardly explain +why: probably the cruelties of the sixteenth and seventeenth +centuries, not peculiar to the Lusitanians, have rankled in the +national memory. A stray Portuguese would infallibly be put to +death, and it will, I fear, be long before M. Valdez sees +"spontaneous declarations of vassalage on the part of the King of +Molembo (Malemba) and others." + +In 1860 the trade of Kinsembo amounted to some £50,000, divided +amongst four houses, two English, one American, and one Rotterdam +(Pencoff and Kerdyk). The Cassange war greatly benefited the new +station by diverting coffee and other produce of the interior +from Loanda. There are apochryphal tales of giant tusks brought +from a five months' journey, say 500 miles, inland. I was shown +two species of copal (gum anime) of which the best is said to +come from the Mosul country up the Ambriz River: one bore the +goose-skin of Zanzibar, and I was assured that it does not +viscidize in the potash-wash. The other was smooth as if it had +freshly fallen from the tree. It was impossible to obtain any +information; no one had been up country to see the diggings, and +yet all declared that the interior was open; that it would be +easy to strike the Coango (Quango) before it joins the Congo +River, and that 150 miles, which we may perhaps reduce by a +third, would lodge the traveller in the unknown lands of "Hnga." + +Bidding kindly adieu to Mr. Hunter and wishing him speedy +deliverance from his dreadful companion, we resumed our travel +over the now tranquil main. Always to starboard remained the +narrow sea-wall, a length without breadth which we had seen after +the lowlands of Cape Lopez, coloured rosy, rusty-red, or white, +and sometimes backed by a second sierra of low blue rises, which +suggests the sanatorium. Forty miles showed us the tall trees of +Point Palmas on the northern side of the Conza River; on the +south of the gap-like mouth lies the Ambrizette settlement, with +large factories, Portuguese and American, gleaming against the +dark verdure, and with Conza Hill for a background. The Cabeça de +Cobra, or "Margate Head," led to Makula, alias Mangal, or Mangue +Grande, lately a clump of trees and a point; now the site of +English, American, and Dutch factories. Here the hydrographic +charts of 1827 and 1863 greatly vary, and one has countermarched +the coast-line some 75 miles: Beginning with the Congo River, it +lays down Mangue Pegueno (where Grande should be), Cobra, and +Mangue Grande (for Pequeno) close to Ambrizette. Then hard ahead +rose Cape Engano, whose "deceit" is a rufous tint, which causes +many to mistake it for Cape or Point Padrão. To-morrow, as the +dark-green waters tell us, we shall be in the Congo River. + + + + + + Chapter V. + +Into the Congo River.--the Factories.--trip to Shark's Point.-- + the Padrão and Pinda. + + + +The best preparation for a first glance at the Congo River is to +do as all do, to study the quaint description which old Purchas +borrowed from the "Chronica da Companhia de Jesus em Portugal." + +"The Zaire is of such force that no ship can get in against the +current but near to the shore; yea, it prevails against the +ocean's saltness three-score, and as some say, four-score miles +within the sea, before his proud waves yield their full homage, +and receive that salt temper in token of subjection. Such is the +haughty spirit of that stream, overrunning the low countries as +it passeth, and swollen with conceit of daily conquests and daily +supplies, which, in armies of showers, are, by the clouds, sent +to his succour, runnes now in a furious rage, thinking even to +swallow the ocean, which before he never saw, with his mouth wide +gaping eight-and-twenty miles, as Lopez[FN#6] affirmeth, in the +opening; but meeting with a more giant-like enemie which lies +lurking under the cliffes to receive his assault, is presently +swallowed in that wider womb, yet so as, always being conquered, +he never gives over, but in an eternall quarrel, with deeper and +indented frownes in his angry face, foaming with disclaine, and +filling the aire with noise (with fresh helpe), supplies those +forces which the salt sea hath consumed." + +I was disappointed after the Gambia and Gaboon rivers in the +approach to the Congo. About eight miles south of the mouth the +green sea changed to a clear brown which will be red during the +flood. Some three degrees (F. 79° to 82°) cooler than the salt +tide, the lighter water, which was fresh as rain, feathered out +like a fan; a rippling noise was faintly audible, and the clear +lines of white foam had not time to melt into the coloured +efflux. The flow was diverted into a regular curve northwards by +the South Atlantic current; voyagers from Ascension Island to the +north-west therefore feel the full throb of the great riverine +pulse, and it has been recognized, they say, at a distance of 300 +miles. Lopez, Merolla, and Dapper[FN#7] agree that the Congo +freshens the water at thirty miles from the mouth, and that it +can be distinguished thirty leagues off. The Amazonas tinges the +sea along the Guiana coast 200 miles, and the effect of the +Ganges extends to about twenty leagues. At this season, of +course, we saw none of the floating islands which during the +rains sail out sixty to seventy leagues from land. "Tuckey's +Expedition" informs us, that the Hon. Captain Irby, H.M.S. +"Amelia," when anchored twelve miles from the South Point, in +fifteen fathoms, "observed on the ocean large floating islands +covered with trees and bushes, which had been torn from the banks +by the violent current." The Journal of Captain Scobell, H.M.S. +"Thais," remarks: "In crossing this stream I met several floating +islands or broken masses from the banks of that noble river." We +shall find them higher up the bed, only forming as the inundation +begins; I doubt, however, that at any time they equal the meadows +which stud the mouth of the Rio Formoso (Benin River). + +Historic Point Padrao, the "Mouta Seca," or Dry Bush, of the +modern Portuguese, showed no signs of hospitality. The fierce +rollers of the spumous sea broke and recoiled, foaming upon the +sandy beach, which they veiled with a haze of water-dust, almost +concealing the smoke that curled from the mangrove-hedged "King +Antonio's Town." Then, steaming to the north-east, we ran five +miles to Turtle Cove, formerly Turtle Corner, a shallow bay, +whose nearest point is "Twitty Twa Bush," the baptismal effort of +some English trader. And now appeared the full gape of the Congo +mouth, yawning seven sea-miles wide; the further shore trending +to the north-west in a low blue line, where Moanda and Vista, +small "shipping-ports" for slaves, were hardly visible in the +hazy air. As we passed the projecting tooth of Shark Point, a +sandspit garnished with mangroves and dotted with palmyras, the +land-squali flocked from their dirty-brown thatches to the beach, +where flew the symbolic red flag. Unlike most other settlements, +which are so buried in almost impenetrable bush that the +traveller may pass by within a few yards without other sign but +the human voice, this den of thieves and wreckers, justly named +in more ways than one, flaunts itself in the face of day. + +The Congo disclaims a bore, but it has a very distinct bar, the +angle pointing up stream, and the legs beginning about Bananal +Bank (N.) and Alligator River (S.). Here the great depth above +and below (145 and 112 fathoms) shallows to 6-9. Despite the +five-knot current we were "courteously received into the embraces +of the river;" H.M. Steamship "Griffon" wanted no "commanding +sea-breeze," she found none of the difficulties which kept poor +Tuckey's "brute of a transport" drifting and driving for nearly a +week before he could anchor off Fuma or Sherwood's Creek, the +"Medusa" of modern charts (?) and which made Shark Point, with +its three-mile current, a "more redoubtable promontory than that +of Good Hope was to early navigators." We stood boldly E.N.E. +towards the high blue clump known as Bulambemba, and, with the +dirty yellow breakers of Mwáná Mazia Bank far to port, we turned +north to French Point, and anchored in a safe bottom of seven +fathoms. + +Here we at once saw the origin of the popular opinion that the +Congo has no delta. On both sides, the old river valley, 32 miles +broad, is marked out by grassy hills rolling about 200 feet high, +trending from E.N.E. to W.S.W., and forming on the right bank an +acute angle with the Ghats. But, whilst the northern line +approaches within five or six miles, the southern bank, which +diverges about the place where "King Plonly's town" appears in +charts, sweeps away some seventeen miles down coast, and leaves a +wide tract of mangrove swamps. These, according to the Portuguese +traders, who have their own plans of the river, extend some +seventy miles south to Ambrizette: slavers keep all such details +very close, and doubtless for good reasons--"short-cuts" greatly +facilitate shipping negroes. The lesser Congo delta is bounded +north by the Banana or Malela stream, whose lower fork is +"Pirates' Creek;" and south by the mangrove-clad drains, which +subtend the main line: the base measures 12-15 miles. At the +highest station, Boma, I shall have something to say about the +greater delta. The left bank of the embouchure projects further +seaward, making it look "under hung," representing in charts a +lower jaw, and the projection of Shark Point the teeth, en +profile. + +My first care was to collect news at the factories. French Point +is a long low spit, which supports two establishments where the +chart (September 1859) gives "Emigration Depot." It is the old +Banana Point, and probably the older Palmeirinha Point of James +Barbot, who places it in the territory of Goy (Ngoy), now +Cabinda. This part has greatly changed since 1859; either the +Banana River requires removing two miles to the north, or French +Point must be placed an equal distance south. The principal +establishment, M. Régis' of Marseilles, is built in his best +style; a two-storied and brilliantly "chunam'd" house, containing +a shop and store on the ground-floor, defended by a three- +pounder. Behind it a square "compound," with high walls, guards +the offices and the other requisites of a bar racoon. It is +fronted by a little village where "Laptots," Senegal Moslems, and +men-at-arms live with their families and slaves. In the rear +stands the far more modest and conscientious establishment of +Messrs. Pencoff and Kerdyk: their plank bungalow is full of work, +whilst the other lies idle; so virtue here is not, as in books, +its own reward. + +M. Victor Parrot, the young Swiss agent of M. Régis, hospitably +asked us to take up our quarters with him, and promised to start +us up stream without delay; his employer fixes the tariff of +every article, and no discretion is left to the subordinates. We +called upon M. Elkman of the Dutch factory. His is a well-known +name on the river, and, though familiar with the people, he has +more than once run some personal risk by assisting our cruizers +to make captures. He advised us to lose no time in setting out +before the impending rains: I wanted, however, a slight +preparation for travel, and determined to see something of the +adjoining villages, especially the site of the historic Padrão. + +Whilst crossing the stream, we easily understood how the river +was supposed to be in a perpetual state of inundation. The great +breadth and the shallows near either jaw prevent the rain-floods +being perceptible unless instruments are used, and "hydrometry," +still in an imperfect state, was little to be depended upon in +the days when European ideas concerning the Congo River were +formed. Twenty miles up stream the high-water mark becomes +strongly marked, and further on, as will be seen, it shows even +better. + +If Barbot's map have any claim to correctness, the southern shore +has changed greatly since A.D. 1700. A straight line from Cape +Padrão to Chapel Point, now Shark Point, was more than double the +breadth of the embouchure. It is vain to seek for the "Island of +Calabes" mentioned by Andrew Battel, who was "sent to a place +called Zaire on the River Congo, to trade for elephants' teeth, +wheat, and palm oil." It may be a mistake for Cavallos, noticed +in the next chapter; but the "town on it" must have been small, +and has left, they say, no traces. After a scramble through the +surf, we were received at Shark Point, where, at this season, the +current is nearer five than three knots, by Mr. Tom Peter, +Mafuka, or chief trader, amongst these "Musurungus." He bore his +highly respectable name upon the frontal band of his "berretta" +alias "corôa," an open-worked affair, very like the old-fashioned +jelly-bag night cap. This head-gear of office made of pine-apple +fibre-- Tuckey says grass--costs ten shillings; it is worn by the +kinglets, who now distribute it to all the lieges whose fortunes +exceed some fifty dollars. + +Most of the Squaline villagers appeared to be women, the men +being engaged in making money elsewhere. Besides illicit trade, +which has now become very dangerous, a little is done in the +licit line: grotesquely carved sticks, calabashes rudely +ornamented with ships and human figures, the neat bead-work +grass-strings used by the women to depress the bosom, and +cashimbos or pipes mostly made about Boma. All were re-baptized +in 1853, but they show no sign of Christianity save crosses, and +they are the only prostitutes on the river. + +Following Tom Peter, and followed by a noisy tail, we walked to +the west end of Shark Point, to see if aught remained of the +Padrão, the first memorial column, planted in 1485 by the +explorer Diogo Cam, knight of the king's household, Dom João II. +"O principe perfeito," who, says De Barros ("Asia," Decad. I. +lib. iii. chap. 3), "to immortalize the memory of his captains," +directed them to plant these pillars in all remarkable places. +The Padrões, which before the reign of D. João were only wooden +crosses, assumed the shape of "columns, twice the height of a man +(estado), with the scutcheon bearing the royal arms. At the sides +they were to be inscribed in Latin and Portuguese (to which James +Barbot adds Arabic), with the name of the monarch who sent the +expedition, the date of discovery, and the captain who made it; +on the summit was to be raised a stone cross cramped in with +lead." According to others, the inscription mentioned only the +date, the king, and the captain. The Padrão of the Congo was +especially called from the "Lord of Guinea's favourite saint, de +São Jorge"--sit faustum! As Carli shows, the patron of Congo and +Angola was Santiago, who was seen bodily assisting at a battle in +which Dom Affonso, son of Giovi (Emmanuel), first Christian king +of Congo, prevailed against a mighty host of idolaters headed by +his pagan brother "Panso Aquitimo." In 1786 Sir Home Popham found +a marble cross on a rock near Angra dos Ilheos or Pequena (south +latitude 26° 37'), with the arms of Portugal almost effaced. Till +lately the jasper pillar at Cabo Negro bore the national arms. +Doubtless much latitude was allowed in the make and material of +these padrões; that which I saw near Cananea in the Brazil is of +saccharine marble, four palms high by two broad; it bears a +scutcheon charged with a cross and surmounted by another. + +There is some doubt concerning the date of this mission. De +Barros (I. iii. 3) says A.D. 1484. Lopes de Limn (IV. i. 5) gives +the reason why A.D. 1485 is generally adopted, and he believes +that the cruise of the previous year did not lead to the Congo +River. The explorer, proceeding to inspect the coast south of +Cape St. Catherine (south latitude 2° 30'), which he had +discovered in 1473, set out from São Jorge da Mina, now Elmina. +He was accompanied by Martin von Behaim of Nürnberg (nat. circ. +A.D. 1436, ob. A.D. 1506), a pupil of the mathematician John +Müller (Regiomontanus); and for whom the discovery of the New +World has been claimed. + +After doubling his last year's terminus, Diogo Cam chanced upon a +vast embouchure, and, surprised by the beauty of the scenery and +the volume of the stream, he erected his stone Padrão, the first +of its kind. Finding the people unintelligible to the +interpreters, he sent four of his men with a present of hawk's +bells (cascaveis) and blue glass beads to the nearest king, and, +as they did not soon return, he sailed back to Portugal with an +equal number of natives as hostages, promising to return after +fifteen moons. One of them, Caçuta (Zacuten of Barbot), proved to +be a "fidalgo" of Sonho, and, though the procedure was contrary +to orders, it found favour with the "Perfect Prince." From these +men the Portuguese learned that the land belonged to a great +monarch named the Mwani-Congo or Lord of Congo, and thus they +gave the river a name unknown to the riverine peoples. + +Diogo Cam, on his second visit, sent presents to the ruler with +the hostages, who had learned as much Portuguese and Christianity +as the time allowed; recovered his own men, and passed on to +Angola, Benguela and Cabo Negro, adding to his discoveries 200 +leagues of coast. When homeward bound, he met the Mwani-Sonho, +and visited the Mwani-Congo, who lived at Ambasse Congo (São +Salvador), distant 50 leagues (?). The ruler of the "great and +wonderful River Zaire," touched by his words, sent with him +sundry youths, and the fidalgo Caçuta, who was baptized into Dom +Joao, to receive instruction, and to offer a present of ivory and +of palm cloth which was remarkably strong and bright. A request +for a supply of mechanics and missionaries brought out the first +mission of Dominicans. They sailed in December, 1490, under +Gonçalo de Sousa; they were followed by others, and in the +sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the country was fairly over- +run by the Propaganda. A future page will enter into more +details, and show the results of their labours. + +The original Padrão was destroyed by the Dutch in 1645, an act of +barbarism which is justly called "Vandalica façanha." Father +Merolla says (1682), "The Hollanders, out of envy, broke the fine +marble cross to pieces; nevertheless, so much remained of it, +when I was there, as to discover plainly the Portuguese arms on +the ruins of the basis, with an inscription under them in Gothic +characters, though not easy to be read." In 1859 a new one was +placed in Turtle Cove, a few yards south-west of Shark Point; but +the record was swept away by an unusually high tide, and no +further attempt has been made. + +We were then led down a sandy narrow line in the bush, striking +south-east, and, after a few yards, we stood before two pieces of +marble in a sandy hollow. The tropical climate, more adverse than +that of London, had bleached and marked them till they looked +like pitted chalk: the larger stump, about two feet high, was +bandaged, as if after amputation, with cloths of many colours, +and the other fragment lay at its feet. Tom Peter, in a fearful +lingua-Franca, Negro-Anglo-Portuguese, told us that his people +still venerated the place as part of a religious building; it is +probably the remnant thus alluded to by Lopes de Lima (iii. 1-6): +"Behind this point (Padrão) is another monument of the piety of +our monarchs, and of the holy objects which guided them to the +conquest of Guinea, a Capuchin convent intended to convert the +negroes of Sonho; it has long been deserted, and is still so. +Even in A.D. 1814, D. Garcia V., the king of Congo, complained in +a letter to our sovereign of the want of missionaries." Possibly +the ruined convent is the church which we shall presently visit. +Striking eastward, we soon came to a pool in the bush +sufficiently curious and out of place to make the natives hold it +"Fetish;" they declare that it is full of fish, but it kills all +men who enter it--"all men" would not include white men. Possibly +it is an old piscina; according to the Abbé Proyart, the +missionaries taught the art of pisciculture near the village of +Kilonga, where they formed their first establishment. The place +is marked "Salt-pond" in Barbot, who tells us that the condiment +was made there and carried inland. + +A short walk to a tall tree backing the village showed us, +amongst twenty-five European graves, five tombs or cenotaphs of +English naval officers, amongst whom two fell victims to +mangrove-oysters, and the rest to the deadly "calenture" of the +lower Congo. We entered the foul mass of huts, + + "Domus non ullo robore fulta + Sed sterili junco cannâque intecta palustri." + +It was too early for the daily debauch of palm wine, and the +interiors reeked with the odours of nocturnal palm oil. The older +travellers were certainly not blasés; they seemed to find +pleasure and beauty wherever they looked: Ca da Mosto (1455), +visiting the Senegal, detected in this graveolent substance, fit +only for wheel-axles, a threefold property, that of smelling like +violets, of tasting like oil of olives, and tinging victuals like +saffron, with a colour still finer. Even Mungo Park preferred the +rancid tallow-like shea butter to the best product of the cow. We +chatted with the Shark Point wreckers, and found that they +thought like Arthegal, + + "For equal right in equal things doth stand." + +Moreover, here, as in the Shetlands of the early nineteenth +century, when the keel touches bottom the seaman loses his +rights, and she belongs to the shore. + +Tom Peter offered to show us other relics of the past if we would +give him two days. A little party was soon made up, Mr. J. C. +Bigley, the master, and Mr. Richards, the excellent gunner of the +"Griffon," were my companions. We set out in a south-by-easterly +direction to the bottom of Sonho, or Diogo's Bay, which Barbot +calls "Bay of Pampus Rock." Thence we entered Alligator River, a +broad lagoon, the Raphael Creek of Maxwell's map, not named in +the hydrographic chart of 1859. Leading south with many a bend, +it is black water and thick, fetid mud, garnished with scrubby +mangrove, where Kru-boys come to cut fuel and catch fever; here +the dew seemed to fall in cold drops. After nine miles we reached +a shallow fork, one tine of which, according to our informants, +comes from the Congo Grande, or São Salvador, distant a week's +march. Leaving the whaler in charge of a Kru-man, we landed, and +walked about half a mile over loose sand bound by pine-apple +root, to the Banza Sonho, or, as we call it, King Antonio's Town- +-not to be mistaken for that placed in the charts behind Point +Padron. Our object being unknown, there was fearful excitement in +the thatched huts scattered under the palm grove, till Tom Peter +introduced us, and cleared for us a decent hut. The buildings, if +they can be so called, are poor and ragged, copies of those which +we shall see upon the uplands. Presently we were visited by the +king named after that saint "of whom the Evil One was parlous +afraid." This descendant of the "Counts of Sonho," in his dirty +night-cap and long coat of stained red cloth, was a curious +contrast to the former splendour of the "count's habit," with cap +of stitched silk which could be worn only by him and his nobles, +fine linen shirt, flowered silk cloak, and yellow stockings of +the same material. When King Affonso III. gave audience to the +missioners (A.D. 1646), the negro grandee "had on a vest of cloth +set with precious stones, and in his hat a crown of diamonds, +besides other stones of great value. He sat on a chair under a +canopy of rich crimson velvet, with gilt nails, after the manner +of Europe; and under his feet was a great carpet, with two stools +of the same colour, and silk laced with gold." After the usual +palaver we gave the black earl a cloth and bottle of rum for +leave to pass on, but no one would accompany us that evening, all +pretending that they wanted time to fit up the hammocks. At night +a body of armed bushmen marched down to inspect us. + +The demands for porterage were so exorbitant next morning, that +we set out on foot under the guidance of Tom Peter. We passed +southwards over large tracts of bush and gramineous plants, with +patches of small plantations, manioc and thur; and settlements +girt by calabash-trees, cocoas, palmyra and oil palms. The people +poured out, threatened impotent vengeance on those who brought +the white men to "make their country," that is, to seize and +settle in it. The only animals were fowls and pigs; small strong +cages acting as hogstyes showed that leopards were dangerous; in +1816 Lieutenant Hawkey found signs of these animals, together +with elephant, wild boar, and antelope. Now there is no sport +below the cataracts, and possibly very little, except in the +water, above them. Thence we debouched upon rolling land, loose +and sandy waves, sometimes divided by swamps; it is the lower end +of the high yellow band seen from the south of the river, the +true coast of alluvial soil, scattered here and there with quartz +and pebbles. Then the bush opened out, and showed to the north- +east stretches of grassy land, where the wild fig-tree drooped +its branches, laden with thick fleshy leafage, to the ground; +these are the black dots which are seen from afar studding the +tawny desert-like surface. Flowers were abundant despite the +lateness of the season, and the sterility of the soil was +evidenced by cactus and euphorbia. + +After a walk of six miles Tom Peter pompously announced that we +had reached the church. We saw only an oblong furrow and a little +worm-eaten wood near three or four of the most miserable +"magalia;" but a bell, hung to a dwarf gallows, was dated 1700, +and inscribed, "Si Deus cum nobis Qis (sic) contra nos?" The +aspect of this article did not fail to excite Mr. Richards' +concupiscence: I looked into the empty huts, and in the largest +found a lot of old church gear, the Virgin (our Lady of Pinda), +saints, and crucifixes, a tank-like affair of iron that acted as +font, and tattered bundles of old music-scores in black and red +ink. In Captain Tuckey's day some of the Sonho men could read the +Latin Litany; there was a priest ordained by the Capuchins of +Loanda, a bare-footed (and bare-faced) black apostle, with a wife +and five handmaids; and a multitude of converts loaded with +crucifixes and satchels of relics. Our home march was enlivened +by glimpses of the magnificent river seen through the perennial +tropical foliage, and it did not suggest trite reflections upon +the meanness of man's highest aspirations in presence of eternal +Nature. + +We had been treading upon no vulgar spot. We are now in the +earldom of Sonho, bounded north by the Congo River and south by +the Ambriz, westward by the Atlantic, and eastward by the "Duchy +of Bamba." It was one of the great divisions of the Congo +kingdom, and "absolute, except only its being tributary to the +Lord Paramount." The titles of Portugal were adopted by the +Congoese, according to Father Cavazzi, after A.D. 1571, when the +king constituted himself a vassal of the Portuguese crown. Here +was the Pinda whose port and fort played an important part in +local history. "Built by the Sonhese army at the mouth of the +River Zaire," it commanded both the stream and sea: it was +plundered in 1600 by four French pirates. According to Carli +(1666-67) "the Count of Sonho, the fifth dignitary of the empire, +resided in the town of Sonho, a league from the River Zaire." +Pinda was for a time the head-quarters of the Portuguese Mission, +subject only to that of São Salvador; it consisted of an +apartment two stories high, which caused trouble, being contrary +to country custom. + +At the French factory I found the employés well "up" in the +travels of the unfortunate adventurer Douville ("Voyage au Congo +et dans l'Intérieur de l'Afrique Equinoxiale fait dans les années +1828, 1829, et 1830. Par J. B. Douville, Secrétaire de la Société +de Géographic de Paris pour l'année 1832, etmembre de plusieurs +Sociétés savantes françoises et étrangères. Ouvrage auquel la +Société de Géographic a décerné le prix dans sa séance du 30 +mars, 1832. 3 tomes. 8vo. Paris, 1832"). Dr. Gardner, in his +Brazilian travels, gives an account of Douville's murder, the +consequence of receiving too high fees for medical attendance on +the banks of the São Francisco. So life like are his descriptions +of the country and its scenery, that no one in the factory would +believe him to have been an impostor, and the Frenchmen evidently +held my objections to be "founded on nationality." The besetting +sins of the three volumes are inordinate vanity and +inconséquence, but these should not obscure our vision as to +their solid and remarkable merits. Compare the picturesque +account of São Paulo with those of the latest English travellers, +and the anthropology of the people, their religion, their +ceremonies, their magic, their dress and costume, their trade, +their manufactures, their maladies (including earth-eating), +their cannibalism, the condition of their women, and the +necessity of civilizing them by education before converting them, +all subjects of the highest interest, with that of Mungo Park, +for instance, arid we have a fair measure of the French +traveller's value. The native words inserted into the text are +for the most part given with unusual correctness, and the carping +criticism which would correct them sadly requires correction +itself. "Thus the word which he writes mouloundu in his text, and +mulundu in his vocabulary, is not singular, as he supposes, but +the plural of loondu, a mountain" (p. 200 of the" Review"). +Firstly, Douville has warned the reader that the former is the +spelling best adapted to French, the latter to Portuguese. +Secondly, "mulundu" in Angolan is singular, the plural being +"milundu"--a handful, the Persians say, is a specimen of the +heap. The excess of female births in low and unhealthy places (1, +309) and as the normal result of polygamy (3, 243), is a highly +interesting subject still awaiting investigation. I do not mean +that Douville was the first to observe this phenomenon, which +forced itself upon the notice of physiologists in ancient times. +Foster ("Cook's Third Voyage") remarks that, wherever men and +animals have many females, the feminine births preponderate over +the masculine; a fact there explained by the "organic molecule" +of Buffon. Pigafetta, the circumnavigator, gives the King of +Tidor eighteen daughters to eight sons. + +The French traveller does not pretend to be a mineralogist, but +he does his best to lay open the metallic riches of the country; +he gives careful observations of temperature, in water as well as +air, he divines the different proportions of oxygen in the +atmosphere, and he even applies himself to investigating the +comparative heat of the negro's blood, an inquiry still far from +being exhausted. The most remarkable part is certainly the +medical, and here the author was simply in advance of his age. +Instead of the lancet, the drastic cathartics, and the calomel +with which our naval surgeons slew their patients, he employed +emetics and tonics to an extent that would have charmed my late +friend, Dr. Dickson, the chromothermalist, and he preceded Dr. +Hutchinson in the use of quinine wine. Indeed, the peculiar +aptitude for medicine shown in these pages led to the traveller's +adopting the destructive art of healing as a profession, and +caused his unhappy end. The curious mixture of utter imposture +and of genius for observation which a traveller can detect in +Douville renders him worthy of a monograph. + + + + + + Chapter VI. + +Up the Congo River.--the Slave Depot, Porto Da Lenha.--arrival at + Boma. + + + +M. Parrot was as good as his word. By August 31st, "L'Espérance," +a fine schooner-rigged palhabote (launch) of thirty-five tons, +heavily sparred and carrying lots of "muslin," was ready to +receive my outfit. The party consisted of the commander, Mr. +Bigley, and five chosen "Griffons," including William Deane, +boatswain's mate, as good a man as his namesake in Blake's day, +and the estimable Friend, captain's cook and Figaro in general. +M. Pissot, an Arlésien, clerk to the factory, went up on business +with a crew of eight useless Cabindas under Frank, their pagan +"patron," who could only run us aground. Finally, there was a +guard of half-a-dozen "Laptots," equally good sailors and +soldiers. The French squadron in West Africa has the advantage +over ours of employing these men, + +086--- who are clean, intelligent, and brave; whilst we are +reduced to the unprogressive Kru-man, who is, moreover, a model +coward, a poltroon on principle. + +At 5 P.M. our huge canvas drove us rapidly over the shoals and +shallows of this imperfectly known sea: the Ethiopic Directory +justly grumbles, "It is a subject of regret that navigators who +have had occasion to enter the Congo, and to remain there some +time, have not furnished us with more information about the +tides." This will be a work of labour and endurance; detached +observations are of very little use. We at once remarked the +complication caused by the upper, surface, or freshwater current +of 3 to 4 knots an hour, meeting the under, or oceanic inflow. +There is a short cut up Pirate's Creek, but we avoided it for the +usual reason, fear of finding it very long. Passing a low point +to port, subtended north and south by the Bananal River and +Pirate's Creek, after some six knots we were abreast of +Bulambemba (the Boulem beembo of Tuckey's Vocabulary). It is +interpreted "Answer," hence our "Echo Point"(?); but others +render it, "Hold your tongue." The former is correct, and the +thick high screen of trees explains the native and English names. +Old writers call it Fathomless Point, which it is not now; a +bank, the south-eastern projection of the great Mwáná Mázia +shoal, has formed a few feet below the surface; but the term will +apply at the distance of a mile further south. This acute angle +shows a glorious clump, the "Tall Trees," white mangroves rising +a hundred feet, and red mangroves based upon pyramidal cages of +roots; and beyond it the immediate shore is covered with a dense +tropical vegetation, a tangle of bush, palms, and pandanus, +matted with creepers and undergrowth, and rhyzophoras of many +varieties delighting in brackish water. We passed on the right +the Ponta de Jacaré (Point of the Crocodile), fronting Point +Senegal on the other side. The natives call the former Ngándu +(li. Jigándu), and farcical tales are told about it: in the lower +settlements Europeans will not go abroad by night without a +lantern. During my trip I sighted only one startled crocodile +that floated log-like a mile off, and Captain Baak, of the Dutch +house, had not seen one during a whole year at Banana Point. + +We anchored for the night off the south side of the Zungá chyá +Ngombe, in Portuguese Ilha do Boi (Bullock), the Rhinoceros +Island of our early charts. It emerges from the waters of the +right bank, a mere "ponton" plumed with dark mangroves and +streaked with spar-like white trunks. This is probably the +"Island of Horses," where the Portuguese, flying from the +victorious Hollanders, were lodged and fed by the courteous Count +of Sonho; perhaps it is Battel's "Isle Calabes." The place is +backed by the Monpanga or Mombang, the "Look-out Islands" of the +chart, which has greatly changed since the beginning of the +century; the dark mass of mangroves is now apparently part of the +northern shore. Almost due south of the Ilha do Boi is the Zungá +chyá Kampenzi, whence our word chimpanzee: in the hydrographic +chart it is miswritten Zoonga Campendi, and in Tuckey's map, +which contradicts his text, "Zoonga Casaquoisa." His "Zoonga +Kampenzey," also named "Halcyon Island," appears to be the +Draper's Island or the "Monkey Island" of Mr. Maxwell: the latter +in modern charts is more to the north-east, that is, above Porto +da Lenha, than the former. The Simiads have been killed out; +Captain Tuckey going up the river saw upwards of twenty which, +but for their tails, might have been mistaken for negroes. +Merolla says that wild men and women (gorillas?) have been +captured in Sonho, and he carefully distinguishes them from +baboons: one of them was presented to a friar of his order, who +"bestowed it on the Portuguese governor of Loanda." Chimpanzee +Island may be the Zariacacongo of Father Merolla, who makes +Cacongo (Great Congo) a large and independent kingdom" lying in +the middle between Congo and Loango." He describes Zariacacongo, +"none of the smallest, and situate in the midst of the River +Zaire." It abounded in all sorts of provisions, was well peopled, +consisted of a plain raised eight fathoms above water, and was +divided from the kingdom of Congo by a river, over which there +was a bridge. + +After a pleasant breezy night upon the brown waters, on September +1st we hove anchor betimes and made for Scotchman's Head, a +conspicuous mangrove bluff forming a fine landmark on the left +bank. The charts have lately shifted it some two miles west of +its old position. Six or seven miles beyond it rise the blue +uplands of the "Earldom of Sonho." On our right, in mid-stream, +lay a "crocodile bank," a newly fixed grass islet, a few square +feet of green and gold, which the floods will presently cover or +carry away. To the left, above the easternmost "Mombang" and the +network of islands behind it, opens the gape of the Malela River, +a short cut to French Point, found useful when a dangerous tide- +rip is caused by the strong sea-breeze meeting the violent +current of the Thalweg. Above it lies a curious formation like +concentric rings of trees inclosing grass: it is visible only +from the north-east. Several slave factories now appear on either +shore, single-storied huts of wood and thatch, in holes cut out +of the densest bush, an impenetrable forest whose sloppy soil and +miry puddles seem never to dry. The tenements serve as videttes +and outposts, enabling cargoes to ship without the difficulties +of passing Palm Point, and thus to make a straight run down +stream. There are three on the north bank, viz. M. Rágis (aîné), +now deserted, Sr. Lima Viana, and Sr. Antonio Fernandez; and +three on the left side, Sr. Alessandro Ferreira, Sr. Guilherme, +and Sr. Fonseca. Those on the southern or left bank facilitate +overland transit to Mangue, Ambrizette, and other dépôts. At +present it is "tiempo seco" (dull time), and the gérants keep +their hands in by buying ground-nuts and palm oil. The slave +trade, however, makes 500, not 50, per cent., and the agents are +naturally fond of it, their mere salaries being only some 150 +francs a month. + +Landing at the factory of Sr. Fernandez, we were received by his +agent, Sr. Silva, in a little bungalow of bamboo and matting, +paved with tamped earth and old white ostreoid shells, a kind of +Mya, relished by the natives but not eaten by Europeans. To +these, doubtless, Mr. W. Winwood Reacle refers ("Savage Africa," +chap, xxxvii.), "The traders say that in Congo there are great +heaps of oyster-shells, but no oysters. These shells the negroes +also burn for lime." I did not hear of any of these "ostreiras," +which, if they exist, must reflect the Sambaquis of the opposite +Brazilian shore. The house was guarded by three wooden figures, +"clouterly carved," and powdered with ochre or red wood; two of +them, representing warriors in studded coatings of spike nails, +with a looking-glass fixed in the stomach, raised their hands as +if to stab each other. These figures are sometimes found large as +life: according to the agents, the spikes are driven in before +the wars begin, and every one promises the hoped-for death of an +enemy. Behind them the house was guarded by a sentinel with drawn +sword. The unfortunate tenant, who looked a martyr to ague, sat +"in palaver" with a petty island "king," and at times the tap of +a war-drum roused my experienced ear. The monarch, habited in a +shabby cloth coat, occupied a settee, with a "minister" on either +side; he was a fat senior of light complexion, with a vicious +expression upon features, which were not those of the +"tobacconist nigger," nor had he the effeminate aspect of the +Congoese. + +I looked curiously at these specimens of the Musulungu or +Musurungu, a wilder race than that of Shark Point: the English, +of course, call them Missolonghi, because Lord Byron died there. +Here the people say "le" for "re," and "rua" for "lua," +confounding both liquids, which may also be found in the Kibundo +tongue. In Loango, according to the Abbé Proyart, the national +organ does not admit the roughness of the r, which is changed to +l. Monteiro and Gamitto assert (xxii.) that the "Cazembes or +Lundas do not pronounce the letter r, in whose place they use l." +The "Ibos" of the lower Congo, dwelling on the southern shore +between the mouth and the Porto da Lenha, above which they are +harmless, these men have ever been dangerous to strangers, and +the effect of the slave-trade has been to make them more +formidable. Lieutenant Boteler (1835) was attacked by twenty- +eight canoes, carrying some 140 men, who came on boldly, +"ducking" at the flash, and who were driven off only by a volley +of musketry and a charge of grape. In 1860 a whaler and crew were +attacked by their war-canoes sallying out from behind Scotchman's +Head. These craft are of two kinds, one shaped like a horse- +trough, the other with a lean and snaky head. The "Wrangler" lost +two of her men near Zungá chyá Kampenzi, and the "Griffon" +escaped by firing an Armstrong conical shell. They have +frequently surprised and kept for ransom the white agents, whom +"o negocio" deterred from reprisals. M. Pissot, our companion, +was amarré by them for some weeks, and the most unpleasant part +of his captivity was the stunning concert of songs and +instruments kept up during the day to prevent his escaping by +night. The more sensible traders at Boma pay them black mail by +employing them as boats' crews, upon our Anglo-Indian principle +of the "Paggi" and the "Ramosi." + +Merolla calls these men Musilongo or Sonhese. The word appears to +me opprobrious, as if each tribe termed itself Mushi-Congo (Congo +people), and its neighbours Musulungus: Barbot writes as a +Frenchman Moutsie, the Portuguese Muxi (Mushi). Mushi-Longo would +perhaps mean Loango-people; but my ear could not detect any +approach to "Loango" in "Musulungu." The first syllable, Mu, in +Fiote or Congoese, would be a contraction of Muntu (plural +Wántú). They inhabit the islands, own a part of the north bank, +and extend southwards to Ambriz: eastward they are bounded by the +Fiote or Congo-speaking peoples, to whom their tongue is +intelligible. They have no tattoo, but they pierce the nose +septum and extract the two central and upper incisors; the Muxi- +Congoes or Lower Congoese chip or file out a chevron in the near +sides of the same teeth-- an ornament possibly suggested by the +weight of the native pipe. The chipping and extracting seem to be +very arbitrary and liable to change: sometimes the upper, at +other times the lower teeth are operated upon. The fashionable +mutilation is frequently seen in Eastern Africa, and perhaps it +is nothing but a fashion. They are the "kallistoi" and "megistoi" +of the Congoese bodies, taller and darker, fiercer and braver +than their neighbours, nor will they cease to be river pirates +till the illicit trade dies. + +After taking leave of Sr. Silva we resumed our way, the +thermometer (F.) showing at 1.45 P.M. 95° in the air when the sun +was obscured, and the mirage played the usual fantastic tricks. +The mangrove, which Tuckey's introduction prolongs to fifty miles +from the mouth, now disappears; in fact, it does not extend much +above Bullock Island, nineteen direct miles on the chart from +Shark Point and, as usual, it enables us to measure the extreme +limit where the salt-tide ascends. The palhabote went gallantly, + + "The water round her bows + Dancing as round a drinking cup." + +Small trembling waves poppled and frothed in mid-stream, where +the fresh water met wind and tide; and by the "boiling" of the +surface we saw that there was still a strong under-current +flowing against the upper layer. A little beyond the factory we +were shown on the northern bank Mariquita Nook, where the slaver +of that name, commanded by a Captain Bowen, had shipped some 520 +men. She was captured by H.M. Steamship "Zebra," Commander +Hoskins, after being reported by a chief, whom her captain had +kicked, to a trader at the river mouth, and by him to the +cruizer. Slavers used to show their sense by starting on Sundays, +when the squadron kept a careless look-out; but their inevitable +danger was the general "drunk" of the officers and crew to +celebrate the event, and this libation often caused delays which +led to seizure. It was an admirable site, a bit of golden sand +fronting the cleared bush, commanding an unbroken sweep of vision +to the embouchure, and masked by forest from Porto da Lenha. It +is easily known by its two tall trees, and that nearest the sea, +when viewed from the east, appears surmounted by what resemble +the "Kangaroo's Head:" they are cones of regular shape, covered +to the topmost twig with the lightest green Flagellaria. The +"bush" now becomes beautiful, rolling in bulging masses of +verdure to the very edge of the clear brown stream. As in the +rivers of Guinea, the llianas form fibrous chains, varying in +size from a packthread to a cable; now straight, then twisted; +investing the trees with an endless variety of folds and +embraces, and connecting neighbours by graceful arches like the +sag of an acrobat's rope. Here and there a grotesque calabash +contrasted with the graceful palms towering in air for warmth and +light, or bending over water like Prince of Wales's feathers. The +unvarying green was enlivened by yew-like trees with scarlet +flowers, the "Burning Bush" of Sierra Leone, setting off the +white boles of the cotton-trees; and the whole was edged by the +yellow green of the quaint pandanus hung with heavy fruit. + +A little beyond "Mariquita Nook" the right bank becomes a net- +work of creeks, "obscure channels," tortuous, slimy with mud, +banked with the snake-like branches of trees, and much resembling +the lower course of the Benin, or any other north equatorial +African river; the forest is also full of large villages, +invisible like the streams till entered. A single tree, +apparently growing out of the great stream-bed, showed shallow +water as we passed the Ponte de tres Palmeiras; the three oil- +palms are still there, but the easternmost is decaying. At 2 P.M. +we were in sight of the chief slaving settlement on the Congo, +the Whydah of the river, Porto da Lenha. Our charts have "Ponta +de Linha," three mistakes in as many words. Some authorities, +however, prefer Ponta da Lenha, "Woody Point," from the piles +flanking the houses; others, Ponte da Lenha, from a bridge built +by the agent of Messrs. Tobin's house over the single influent +that divides the settlement. Cruizers have often ascended thus +far; the Baltimore barque of 800 tons went up and down safely in +1859, but now square-rigged ships, which seldom pass Zungá chyá +Kampenzi, send up boats when something is to be done higher up. + +Porto da Lenha dates like Abeokuta from the second decade of the +present century. In Tuckey's time the projection from the +northern bank was known as "Tall Trees," a term common to several +places in the "Oil rivers;" no factories existed, schooners +sailed to Boma for cargo, and dropped down stream as soon as +loaded. From French Point it is distant 40,000 measured metres (= +21 statute miles and 1,615 yards); our charts show 20.50 nautical +miles (= 32,500 metres in round numbers). The river opposite the +projection narrows to a gate barely a mile and a half broad, +whilst the valley stretches some five miles, and the blue hills +inhabited by the Musulungus are clearly visible; the flood rises +four or five feet, and drinking water must be brought from up +stream. The site of the settlement is on the right or northern +bank behind the projection, a slip of morass backed by swamps and +thick growths, chiefly bombax, palm and acacia, lignum vitae, the +mammee-apple and the cork-tree, palmyra, pandanus, and groves of +papyrus. Low and deeply flooded during the rains, the place would +be fatal without the sea-breeze; as it is, the air is exceedingly +unwholesome. There is no quay, the canoe must act gondola; the +wharf is a mere platform with steps, and in places the filthy +drains are not dry even at this season. The length of the station +is about one mile, and of no depth except what is taken up by the +neat and expensive gardens. Eastward or up stream it thins out, +and the foundations give considerable trouble; the inhabitants +are condemned to do beavers' work, to protect the bank with +strong piles, and to heap up earth for a base, whilst, despite +all their toil, the water often finds its way in. The sixteen +houses look well; they are substantial bungalows, built country +fashion, with timber and matting; they have large and shady +verandahs, and a series of inner rooms. Each house has a well- +kept pottage plot, inferior, however, to those up stream. + +The tenure of ground here, as at Borna, is by yearly rent to the +two "kings," Nengongo and Nenzalo, each of whom claims a half. +Like the chiefs of Porto Novo, the despot of Dahome, the rulers +of many Nigerian tribes, and even the Fernandian "Bube," these +potentates may not look at the sea nor at the river. Their power +is, therefore, deputed to "linguisters" or interpreters, +linguistele ya Nchinu, "linguist to the king," being the official +titles of these worthies, who massacre the Portuguese language, +and who are empowered to receive "comey" (customs) and rent. The +revenue is composed of three principal items; an ounce ($16) per +head of negro embarked at Porto da Lenha; four per cent, on all +goods sold, and, lastly, a hundred hard dollars monthly ground- +rent--£l92 (English pound symbol) a year. The linguist becomes +more powerful than the chief, who is wholly in his power, and +always receives the best presents. Neagongo's fattore is old +Shimbah, an ignoble aspect with a "kink in his leg;" Mashel or +Machela, a corruption of the Portuguese Maciel, died about two +months aeo: we shall see him disembarked for burial at Boma. + +It is evident that the slavers were wrong not to keep hulks like +those of the Bonny River; health would have gained, and the +procedure might have modified negro "sass." The chiefs begin +early morning by going their rounds for drink, and end business +between 7 and 10 A.M. Everywhere on this coast a few hours of +work support a "gentleman;" even the comparatively industrious +and hard-working Egbas rarely do anything after noon. These lords +and masters are fully aware that the white men are their willing +slaves as long as the large profits last. If a glass of watered +rum, which they detect more easily than we do watered milk, be +offered to them, it will be thrown in the donor's face. Every +factory must keep a barrel of spirits ready broached if the +agents would buy eggs and yams, and the poorest negro comes +regularly with his garrafa. The mixed stuff costs per bottle only +a hundred reis (= fourpence), and thoroughly demoralizes the +black world. + +We landed at once, sent our letters to M. Monteiro, who +hospitably offered his house, and passed the day quickly enough +in a round of visits. Despite the general politeness and +attention to us, we found a gloom overhanging the place: as at +Whydah, its glories have departed, nor shall they ever return. +The jollity, the recklessness, the gold ounces thrown in handfuls +upon the monte-table, are things of the past: several houses are +said to be insolvent, and the dearth of cloth is causing actual +misery. Palm and ground-nut oil enable the agents only to buy +provisions; the trade is capable of infinite expansion, but it +requires time--as yet it supports only the two non-slaving +houses, English and Dutch. The forty or fifty tons brought in +every month pay them cent, per cent.; the bag of half a hundred +weight being sold for four fathoms of cloth; or two hatchets, one +bottle of rum, and a jug or a plate. + +Early next day I went to the English factory for the purpose of +completing my outfit. Unfortunately, Mr. P. Maculloch, the head +agent, who is perfectly acquainted with the river and the people, +was absent, leaving the business in the hands of two "mean +whites," walking buccras, English pariahs. The factory--a dirty +disgrace to the name--was in the charge of a clerk, whom we saw +being rowed about bareheaded through the sun, accompanied by a +black girl, both as far from sober as might be. The cooper, who +was sitting moony with drink, rose to receive us and to weigh out +the beads which I required; under the excitement he had recourse +to a gin-bottle, and a total collapse came on before half the +work was done. Why should south latitude 6°, the parallel of +Zanzibar, be so fatal to the Briton? + +At 2.20 P.M. on September 2, we left Porto da Lenha, and passed +Mashel's Creek, on whose right bank is the village of Makatalla; +the charts call it Foomou, and transfer it to the left. Here we +enter upon the riverine archipelago. The great stream before one, +now divides into three parallel branches, separated by long +narrow islands and islets, banks and shallows. The northernmost +channel in our maps, "Maxwell River," is known to Europeans and +natives as Noangwa; Mamballa or the central line is called by the +moderns Nshibúl, and the southern is dubbed by the hydrographer, +"Rio Konio," a truly terrible mistake for Sonho. As a rule, the +Noangwa, though infested during the rains by cruel mosquitoes, is +preferred for the ascent, and the central for dropping down +stream. The maximum breadth of the Congo bed, more than half +island, is here five miles; and I was forcibly reminded of it +when winding through the Dalmatian Archipelago. + +The river still maintained its alluvial aspect as we passed along +the right bank. The surface was a stubble strewn with the usual +trees; the portly bombax; the calabash, now naked and of wintry +aspect; and the dark evergreen palmyra, in dots and streaks upon +the red-yellow field, fronted by an edging of grass, whose king, +cyperus papyrus, is crowned with tall heads waving like little +palms. This Egyptian bush extends from the Congo mouth to Banza +Nokki, our landing-place; it grows thickest about Porto da Lenha, +and it thins out above and below: I afterwards observed it in the +sweet water marshes of Syria and the Brazils. We passed sundry +settlements--Loango Pequeno, Loango Grande, and others--and many +canoes were seen plying up and down. On the left or to the south +was nothing but dense reedy vegetation upon the low islands, +which here are of larger dimensions than the northern line. As +evening drew near, the grasshoppers and the tree frogs chirped a +louder song, and the parrots whistled as they winged their rapid +flight high overhead. Presently we passed out of the lower +archipelago, and sighted the first high land closing upon the +stream, rolling hills, which vanished in blue perspective, and +which bore streaks of fire during the dark hours. Our Cabinda +Patron grounded us twice, and even the high night breeze hardly +enabled us to overcome the six-knot current off the narrow, whose +right side is called Ponta da Diabo. Devil's Point is not so +named in the chart: the place is marked "Strong Tide" (No. 1), +opposite Chombae Island, which the natives term Zungá chyá +Bundika, hence probably the name of the village Bemandika (Boma +ndika). At this satanic headland, where the banks form a gate +three miles broad, a man hailed us from the bank; none understood +him, but all made up their minds that he threatened to visit us +during the night. + +A light breeze early next morning fortunately freshened as we +approached "Strong Tide" (No. 2). We ran north of the second +archipelago above the gate; south of us lay the "Low Islands" of +the chart, with plantations of beans and tobacco; the peasants +stood to stare like Icelanders, leaning on oblong-bladed paddles +six feet long, or upon alpen-stocks capped with bayonets; the +"scare-crows" were grass figures, with pots for heads and wooden +rattles suspended to bent poles. On the right bank a block of +hills narrows the stream, and its selvage of light green grasses +will contribute to the "floating islands." Higher up, blocks and +boulders of all sizes rise from the vegetation, and prolong +themselves into the shallower waters. There are two distinct +bluffs, the westernmost marked by a tree-clump at its feet, and +between them lies a baylet, where a dozen palms denote the once +dreaded village Bemandika. The second block, 400 to 500 feet +high, bears on its rounded summit the Stone of Lightning, called +by the people Tadi Nzázhí, vulgò, Taddy Enzazzi. The Fiote +language has the Persian letter Zh (j), sounding like the initial +of the French "jour:" so Lander ("On the Course and Termination +of the Niger," "Journal Royal Geographical Society," vol. i. p. +131) says of the Island Zegozhe, that "zh is pronounced like z in +azure." This upright mass, apparently 40 feet high, and seeming, +like the "Lumba" of Kinsembo to rest upon a basement, is very +conspicuous from the east, where it catches the eye as a watch- +tower would. At the bluff-base, a huge slab, an irregular +parallelogram, slopes towards the water and, viewed far up +stream, it passably represents a Kaffir's pavoise. This Fingal's +Shield, a name due to the piety of Mr. George Maxwell, is called +by the French La Pierre Fétiche: it must not be confounded with +our Fetish Rock (Tádi ya Muingu) on the southern bank at the +entrance of the Nshibúl and Sonho branches. I can add nothing to +Tuckey's description or Lieutenant Hawkey's tracing of the rude +figures which distinguish a not unusual feature. Tuckey (p. 97) +calls Fingal's Shield Taddy d'ya M'wangoo, and Professor Smith, +Taddi Moenga (p. 303); the only defect in Lieutenant Hawkey's +sketch is that of exaggerating the bluff, a mere mamelon, one of +many lumps upon a continued level. Both rocks are of the oldest +granite, much weather-worn and mixed and banded with mica and +quartz. M. Charles Konig found in the finer-grained varieties +"minute noble garnets," which also appeared in the mica-slate of +"Gombac" higher up stream, and in the primitive greenstone of +"Boka Embomma."[FN#8] + +Beyond this point, where Boma is first sighted, lies the large +marauding village of Twáná. Here also a man shouted to us from +the bank "Muliele! muliele!" for the Portuguese "mulher," one of +the interminable corruptions of the tongue--a polite offer, as +politely declined. The next feature is the Rio Jo Jacaré, a +narrow sedgy stream on the right bank, which, winding northward +through rolling lines of hills, bends westward, and joins, they +say, the Rio Lukullu (Lukallo?) of Cabinda Bay. Men have +descended, I am told, three leagues, but no one has seen the +junction, consequently there may be a portage between the drains. +If not, this is the apex of the greater Congo delta, a false +formation, whose base between Cabinda Bay (S. lat. 5° 25') and +Ambrizette (S. lat. 7° 16') measures 1° 51', equal to 111 direct +geographical miles, whilst its depth inland would be sixty. + + + + + + Chapter Vii. + + Boma.--our Outfit for the Interior + + + +We now reach Boma, the furthest Portuguese factory, about thirty, +usually reckoned thirty-eight, nautical miles from Porta da +Lenha, and a total of 52.50 from French Point. + +The upper dépôt of the Congo lies upon the north bank, accidenté +ground, poor, stony, and sandy soil, with rounded, grass-clad +hills, The southern is less broken; there are long slopes and +waves of land which trend in graceful lines, charmingly +diversified, to the uplands, where the old capital, São Salvador, +is situated; and upon the undulating blue ridges, distance behind +distance, appear markings by Nature's hand, which the stranger's +eye can hardly distinguish from villa or village. The view +explains how the old expedition felt "every day more in love with +this beautiful country," The sea-like river wants nothing but +cattle on its banks to justify the description-- + + + "Appunto una scena pastorale, a cui fanno + Quinci il mar, quinci i colli, e d' ogn' intorno + I fior, le piante, e l' ombre, e l' onde, e ‘l cielo. + Unteatro pomposo." + +In the centre of the broad stream, whose southern arm is not +visible, are three islets. The western most, backed by a long, +grassy, palm-tasselled bank, is called Zungá chyá Bundiká. This +Chombae Island of the charts is a rocky cone, dark with umbrella- +shaped trees. Its north-eastern neighbour, Simúle Kete, the +Molyneux Island of Mr. Maxwell, the Hekay of Tuckey, and the +Kekay of the chart, contrasts sharply with the yellow stubbles +and the flat lines of Zungá chyá Ngándi. Here, since Tuckey's +time, the trees have made way for grass and stones; the only +remnants are clumps in the south-eastern, which is not only the +highest point, but also the windy and watery direction. On the +Congo course the foul weather is mostly from the "sirocco," where +the African interior is a mass of swamps. At the mouth tornadoes +come down the line of stream from the north-east, and I heard +traditions of the sea-tornado, which blows in shore instead of +offshore as usual. About the close of the last century one or +other of these islands was proposed as a dépôt and settlement, +which a few simple works would convert into a small Gibraltar. +The easternmost Buka, the Booka Embomma of the charts and maps, +will presently be described. In this direction the Zaire assumes +the semblance of a mountain lake, whilst down stream the broad +bosom of the Nshibúl branch forms almost a sea-horizon, with dots +showing where tall, scattered palms spring from the watery +surface. We cannot but admire the nightly effects of the wintry +bush-fires. During the day livid volumed smoke forms cumuli that +conceal their enemy, the sun, and discharge a rain of blacks ten +times the size of Londoners. In the darkened air we see storms of +fire fiercely whirling over the undulating ranges, here sweeping +on like torrents, there delaying, whilst the sheets meet at the +apex, and a giant beard of flame (<Greek> ) +flouts the moon. The land must be splendidly grassed after the +rains. + +The Boma factories are like those of Porto da Lenha, but humbler +in size, and more resembling the wicker-work native houses. The +river, which up stream will show a flood mark of twelve feet, +here seldom rises above five, and further down three and four; +consequently piles are not required, and the swiftness of the +current keeps off the jacaré. Formerly there were fourteen +establishments, which licit trade in palm oil and ground-nuts, +instead of men, women, and children, have reduced to ten. The air +is sensibly drier and healthier than at the lower settlement, and +apparently there is nothing against the place but deadly ennui +and monotony. + +We landed at once, and presented our letters to Sr. Antonio +Vicente Pereira, who at once made us at home: he had seen Goa as +well as Macáo, so we found several subjects in common. The +factory enjoyed every comfort: the poultry yard throve, far +better than at Porto da Lenha; we saw fowls and pigeons, +"Manilla" ducks and ducklings, and a fine peacock from Portugal, +which seemed to enjoy the change. The fish is not so good as that +caught further down, and the natives have a habit of narcotizing +it: the Silurus electricus is exceptionally plentiful. The +farmyard contained tame deer, and a house-dog fierce as a +tethered mastiff; goats were brought whenever wanted, and the +black-faced, thin-tailed sheep gave excellent mutton. Beef was +impossible; the Portuguese, like the natives, care little for +milk, and of the herd, which strangers had attempted to +domesticate, remained only a bull and a cow in very poor +condition--the deaths were attributed to poisonous grass, but I +vehemently suspect Tsetse. A daily "quitanda," or market, held +under the huge calabashes on a hill behind the house, supplied +what was wanted. + +Upon Market Hill executions also take place, the criminal being +shot through the heart. M. Pereira's garden produces all that +Porta da Lenha can grow, with less trouble and of a superior +kind. Water-melons, tomatoes, onions, and pimento, or large +pepper (pimentão, siliquastrum, ndungu ya yenéne), useful to +produce "crocodiles' tears;" mint, and parsley flourish +remarkably; turnips are eatable after two months; cabbage and +lettuce, beet, carrot, and endive after three or four. It is a +waste of ground to plant peas; two rows, twelve feet by four, +hardly produce a plateful. Manioc ripens between the sixth and +ninth month, plantains and bananas once a year, cotton and rice +in four months, and maize in forty days--with irrigation it is +easy to grow three annual crops. The time for planting is before +the rains, which here last six weeks to two months, September and +October. The staple of commerce is now the nguba, or ground-nut +(plural, jinguba), which Merolla calls incumba, with sometimes a +little milho (maize), and Calavance beans. Of fruits we find +trellised grapes, pines, and guavas, which, as at Fernando Po, +are a weed. The agrumi, limes, oranges and citrons are remarkably +fine, and hold, as of old, a high place in the simple medicines +of the country. A cup of lime-leaf tea, drunk warm in the +morning, is the favourite emetic and cathartic: even in Pliny's +day we find "Malus Assyria, quam alii vocant medicam (Mediam?, +venenis medetur" (xii. 7). On the Gold Coast and in the Gaboon +region, colic and dysentery are cured by a calabash full of lime- +juice, "laced" with red pepper. The peculiarity of European +vegetables throughout maritime Congo and Angola is the absence of +all flavour combined with the finest appearance; it seems as +though something in the earth or atmosphere were wanting to their +full development. Similarly, though in the upper regions the +climate is delicious, the missionaries could not keep themselves +alive, but died of privation, hardship, and fatigue. + + + + + + Chapter VIII. + + A Visit to Banza Chisalla, + + + +Boma, at the head of the Congo delta, the great dépôt between the +interior and the coast, owes its existence wholly to + + "the cruel trade + Which spoils unhappy Afric of her sons." + +Father Merolla (1682), who visited it from "Angoij," our +"Cabinda," speaks of it as a pretty large island, tributary to +the Mani-Congo, extremely populous, well supplied with +provisions, and outlaid by islets belonging to the Count of +Sonho. Tuckey's Embomma was an inland banza or town, and the site +of the factories was called Market Point; the Expedition map and +the hydrographic chart term it Loombee, the latter being properly +the name of a large quitanda (market) lying two miles to the +north-west. Early in the present century it is described as a +village of a hundred huts, opposite which trading vessels +anchored under charge of the "Fuka or king's merchant;" no market +was held there, lest, in case of dispute, the royal person might +suffer. Although the main features of our maps are still correct, +there have been great changes in the river-bed between Porto da +Lenha and Boma, especially about the latter place, which should +be transferred from its present site to Lumbi. The broad Chisalla +Creek, which Mr. Maxwell calls Logan, between the northern bank +and the island "Booka Embomma," is now an arm only 200 feet wide. +In fact all the bank about Boma, like the lower delta, urgently +calls for re-surveying. + +This part of the river belongs to the "Rei dos Reis," Nessalla, +under whom are some ten chief officers called "kings," who buy +and sell; indeed, Africa knows no other. The title is prostituted +throughout the West Coast, but it is nowhere so degraded as in +the Congo regions; the whites abuse it to flatter the vanity of +the astute negro, who accepts it with a view to results--a "king- +dash" must, of course, be greater than that of a subject. Every +fellow with one black coat becomes a "preese" (prince), and if he +has two he styles himself a "king." Without permission of the +"King of Kings" we could obtain neither interpreter, canoe, nor +crew; a visit to Banza Chisalal was therefore necessary and, as +it would have been vain to ask anything empty-handed, I took with +me a fine spangled cloak, a piece of chintz, and a case of ship's +rum, the whole worth £9. + +At 6.30 A.M. on September 5th we set out up stream in a fine +canoe, wall-sided and rather crank, but allowing the comfort of +chairs. She was of Mayumba make, superior to anything built on +the river, and the six men that drove her stood up to pole, and +paddle. Above Boma the hills, which are the outlines of the west +African Ghats, form a graceful semicircle, separated from the +water by a flat terrace garnished with little villages and tree- +islets. On the north bank are many of the crater-like sinks which +dot the coast from the Gaboon to Loango. We hugged the right side +to avoid the rapid swirl; there was no backwater at the points, +and hard work was required to prevent our being swept against the +boulders of gneiss, schiste, and pudding-stone edging the shores +and stretching into the stream. Here the fish is excellent as at +Porto cla Lenha, and we found the people catching it in large +spoon-shaped basins: I enquired about the Peixe mulher (woman- +fish), the French sirène, which old missioners describe as an +African mermaid, not exactly as she appeared to the "lovely lord +of Colonsay," and which Barbot figures with "two strutting +breasts." He makes the flesh taste like pork, and tells us that +the small bones of the hand were good for gravel, whilst +bracelets made of the left rib were worn near the heart, to stop +bleeding. This manatus, like the elephant and the hippopotamus, +has long disappeared before the gun. + +After some three quarters of an hour we reached the entrance of +Chisalla Creek, which is the northernmost branch of the main +stream. On the left (north) was a plain showing traces of a large +village, and we sighted our first grass-island--a compact mass of +fibrous, earth-washed roots and reedy vegetation, inhabited by +serpents and ardeine birds. To the right, or southward, rises the +tall island of Boma, rocky and wooded, which a narrow channel +separates from its eastern neighbour, Chisalla Islet. The latter +is the royal Pere la Chaise, the graves being kept carefully +concealed; white men who have visited the ground to shoot +antelope have had reason to regret the step. Here also lie three +officers of the Congo Expedition-- Messrs. Galwey, Tudor, and +Cranch--forgotten, as Gamboa and Reitz at Mombasah. + +The banks of the winding creek were beautified with the +malaguetta pepper, the ipomsea, the hibiscus, and a yellow flower +growing upon an aquatic plant like a magnified water-cress. +Animal life became somewhat less rare; we saw sandpipers, hawks, +white and black fish-eagles, and long-legged water-hens, here +supposed to give excellent sport. An embryo rapid, formed by a +gneiss-band connecting the north bank with the islet, delayed us, +and the rocks on the right showed pot-holes dug by the poling- +staves; during the rains canoes from Boma avoid this place, and +seek fuel down stream. After a total of two hours and a quarter +we reached Banza Chisalla: it is a "small country," in African +parlance, a succursal of Boma proper, the Banza on the hills +beyond the reedy, grassy plain. The site is charming--a flat +palm-orchard backed by an amphitheatre of high-rolling ground, +and the majestic stream approaches it through a gate, whose right +staple is the tall Chisalla, and whose left is a rocky islet with +outlying needles. + +We ascended the river-bank, greeted by the usual accidents of an +African reception; the men shouted, the women rushed screaming +under cover, and the children stood howling at the horrible +sight. A few paces placed us at the "palace," a heap of huts, +surrounded by an old reed-fence. The audience-room was a trifle +larger than usual, with low shady eaves, a half-flying roof, and +a pair of doorways for the dangerous but indispensable draught; a +veteran sofa and a few rickety chairs composed the furniture, and +the throne was known by its boarded seat, which would have been +useful in taking a "lamp-bath." + +Presently entered the "Rei dos Reis," Nessalla: the old man, +whose appearance argued prosperity, was en grande tenue, the +State costume of Tuckey's, not of Merolla's day. The crown was +the usual "berretta" (night-cap) of open work; the sceptre, a +drum-major's staff; the robes, a "parochial" beadle's coat of +scarlet cloth, edged with tinsel gold lace. His neck was adorned +with hair circlets of elephants' tails, strung with coral and +beads; the effect, to compare black with white, was that of Beau +Brummell's far-famed waterfall tie, and the head seemed supported +as if on a narrow-rimmed "charger." The only other ornament was a +broad silver ring welded round the ankle, and drawing attention +to a foot which, all things considered, was small and well +shaped. + +Some of the chiefs had copper rings of home manufacture, with +neatly cut raised figures. The king held in his right hand an +article which at first puzzled us--a foot's length of split reed, +with the bulbous root attached. He may not, like his vassals, +point with the finger, and without pointing an African can hardly +give an order. Moreover, the Sangálávú or Malaguetta pepper +(Amomum granum Paradisi), fresh or old, is not only a toothstick, +but a fetish of superior power when carried on journeys. +Professor Smith writes "Sangala woo," and tells us that it was +always kept fresh in the house, to be rolled in the hands when +invoking the Fetish during war-time; moreover, it was chewed to +be spat at the enemy. Possibly he confuses it with the use as a +tooth-stick, the article which Asia and Africa prefer to the +unclean hog's- bristle brush of Europe. + +On the left of the throne sat the Nchinu, or "second king," +attired in a footman's livery of olive-coloured cloth, white-worn +at the seams, and gleaming with plated buttons, upon which was +the ex-owner's crest--a cubit arm. + +The stranger in Africa marvels why men, who, as Dahome shows, can +affect a tasteful simplicity, will make themselves such "guys." +When looking at these caricatures, he is tempted to read +(literally) learned Montesquieu, "It is hardly to be believed +that God, who is a wise being, should place a soul, especially a +good soul, in such a black, ugly body," and to consider the few +exceptions as mere "sporting plants." But the negro combines with +inordinate love of finery the true savage taste--an imitative +nature,--and where he cannot copy the Asiatic he must ape the +European; only in the former pursuit he rises above, in the +latter he sinks below his own proper standard. Similarly, as a +convert, he is ennobled by El Islam; in rare cases, which may be +counted upon the fingers, he is civilized by Christianity; but, +as a rule, the latter benefits him so far only as it abolishes +the barbarous and murderous rites of Paganism. + +But there is also a sound mundane reason which causes the African +"king" to pose in these cast-off borrowed plumes. Contrast with +his three-quarter nude subjects gives him a name; the name +commands respect; respect increases "dash;" and dash means +dollars. For his brain, dense and dead enough to resist +education, is ever alive and alert to his own interest; whilst +the concentration of its small powers prevails against those who, +in all other points, are notably his superiors. The whole of +negro Africa teaches this lesson. "The Ethiopians," says Father +Merolla, "are not so dull and stupid as is commonly imagined, but +rather more subtle and cunning than ordinary;" and he adds an +instance of far-sighted treachery, which would not have been +despicable even in a Hindoo. + +A desultory palaver "came up;" the soul of the meeting not being +present. M. Pissot explained my wish to "take walk and make +book," carefully insisting upon the fact that I came to spend, +not to gain money. The grizzled senior's face, before crumpled +like a "wet cloak ill laid up," expanded at these last words, and +with a grunt, which plainly meant "by' m' by," he rose, and +retired to drink-- a call of nature which the decencies of +barbarous dignity require to be answered in private. He returned +accompanied by his nephew, Manbuku Prata (pronounced Pelata), the +"Silver Chief Officer," as we might say, Golden Ball. The title +is vulgarly written Mambuco; the Abbé Proyart prefers Ma-nboukou, +or "prince who is below the Makaia in dignity." The native name +of this third personage was Gidifuku. It was a gorgeous +dignitary: from the poll of his night-cap protruded a dozen +bristles of elephant's tail hair, to which a terminal coral gave +the graceful curve of a pintado's crest, and along his ears, like +the flaps of a travelling casquette, hung two dingy little +mirrors of talc from Cacongo, set in clumsy frames of ruddled +wood. Masses of coral encircled his neck, and the full-dress +naval uniform of a French officer, with epaulettes of stupendous +size, exposed a zebra'd guernsey of equivocal purity. A long +black staff, studded with broad-headed brass beads, served to +clear the room of the lieges, who returned as fast as they were +turned out--the baton was evidently not intended to be used +seriously. + +But the Manbuku Prata is not a mere "Punch in a puppet show." His +face expresses more intelligence and resolution than usual, and +his Portuguese is not the vile article of the common trader. He +means business. When other chiefs send their "sons," that is +their slaves, to fight, he leads them in person--venite, non ite. +The French "Emigration Libre" put 30,000 dollars into his pocket, +and he still hopes against hope to ship many a cargo for the +Banana factory. He has some 300 armed serviles at Chinímí and +Lámbá, two villages perched like condors' nests upon hills +commanding the river's northern bank, and, despite the present +dearth of "business," he still owns some 100,000 francs in cloth +and beads, rum and gunpowder. + +As the "Silver Minister" took his seat upon the ground before the +king, all removed their caps with a simultaneous grunt and +performed the "Sákilá" or batta-palmas; this hand-clapping must +be repeated whenever the simplest action is begun or ended by +king or chief. Monteiro and Gamitto (pp. 101 et seg.) refer to +the practice everywhere on the line of country which they +visited: there it seems to be even a more ceremonious affair than +in the Congo. The claps were successively less till they were +hardly audible; after a pause five or six were given, and the +last two or three were in hurried time, the while without +pronouncing a word. The palaver now opened steadily with a drink: +a bottle of trade "fizz" was produced for the white man, and rum +for his black congeners; then the compliment of healths went all +round. After this we fell to work at business. By dint of +abundant wrangling and with an immense display of suspicion, +natural under the circumstances, it was arranged that the king +should forward me in a couple of his own canoes to Banza Nokki, +the end of river navigation, as we were told, and falsely told; +in my turn I was to pay goods valued about £6, at least three +times the usual tariff. They consisted of fourteen red caps, as +many "sashes," and fifty-two fathoms of cloth for the crew; ten +Peças de lei or Chiloes for each interpreter, and two pieces for +the canoes. I should have given four fathoms for each man and the +same for each boat. The final scene was most gratifying to the +African mind: I solemnly invested old Nessala with the grand +cloak which covered his other finery; grinning in the ecstasy of +vanity, he allowed his subjects to turn him round and round, as +one would a lay figure, yet with profound respect, and, lastly, +he retired to charm his wives. + +This part of the negotiations ended with presenting some "satin +stripe" and rum to the Nchinu and Manbuku Prata, and with shaking +hands--a dangerous operation. The people are cleanly; they wash +when rising, and before as well as after every meal; they are +always bathing, yet from prince to pauper, from baby to grey +beard, they are affected with a psora known by its Portuguese +name, "sarnas." The Congo "fiddle" appears first between the +articulations of the fingers, and bleaches the hands and wrists +as if it were leprosy. Yet I did not see a single case of true +lepra Arabum, or its modifications, the huge Barbadoes leg +(elephantiasis), and the sarcoma scrotale and sarcocele of +Zanzibar and East Africa. From the extremities the gale extends +over the body, especially the shins, and the people, who appear +in the perpetual practice of scalpturigo, attribute it to the +immoderate use of palm wine. I observed, however, that Europeans, +in the river, who avoid the liquor, are hardly ever free from +this foul blood-poison, and a jar of sulphur mixture is a common +article upon the table. Hydrocele is not unfrequent, but hardly +so general as in the Eastern Island; one manner of white man, a +half caste from Macáo, was suffering with serpigo, and boasted of +it. + +All predicted to me a similar fate from the "botch of Congo," but +happily I escaped. Indeed, throughout the West African Coast, +travellers risk "craw-craw," a foul form of the disease, seen on +board the African steamers. Kru-men touching the rails of the +companion ladders, have communicated it to passengers, and these +to their wives and families. + +The town was neat and clean as the people. The houses were built +upon raised platforms, and in the little fenced fields the +Cajanus Indicus vetch was conspicuous. In Hindostani it is called +Thur, or Doll-plant, by the Eastern Arab Turiyan, in Kisawahili +Mbarazi, in Angola voando (Merolla's Ouuanda), and in the Brazil +Guandu.[FN#9] The people had lost their fear, and brought their +exomphalous little children, who resembled salmon fry in the +matter of umbilical vesicles, to be patted by the white man; a +process which caused violent screams and in some cases nearly +induced convulsions-- the mothers seemed to enjoy the horror +displayed by their hopefuls. There is little beauty amongst the +women, and settled Europeans prefer Cabinda girls. The latter +have perhaps the most wiry and wig-like hair on the whole West +African coast, where all hair is more or less wiry and wig- like. +Cloth was less abundant in the village than a smear of red; the +bosom even after marriage was unveiled, and the rule of fashion +was shown by binding it tightly down. The rich wore armlets and +leglets of staircase rods, brass and copper, like the metal +gaiters and gauntlets of the Gaboon River. The only remarkable +object was the Quesango, a wooden effigy of a man placed in the +middle of the settlement: Battel mentions it amongst the "Gagas +or Guides," and Barbot terms it "Likoku Mokisi." Three faint +hurrahs, a feeble African echo of England like the "hoch!" of +Vienna, and the discharge of a four- pounder were our parting +honours. + +We returned viâ the gateway between the two islets. On the south- +eastern flank of Chisalla is a dwarf precipice called Mbondo la +Zumba and, according to the interpreters, it is the Lovers' Leap +of Tuckey. But its office must not be confounded with that +attributed to the sinister-looking scaur of Leucadia; here the +erring wives of the Kings of Boma and their paramours found a +Bosphorus. The Commander of the First Congo Expedition applies +the name to a hanging rock on the northern shore, about eighteen +miles higher up stream. A portentous current soon swept us past +Père la Chaise, and shortly after noon we were comfortably at +breakfast with Sr. Pereira. + +During the last night we had been kept awake by the drumming and +fifing, singing and shouting, weeping and howling, pulling at +accordions and striking the monotonous Shingungo. Merolla names +this cymbal Longa, and describes it justly as two iron bells +joined by an arched bar: I found it upon the Tanganyika Lake, and +suffered severely from its monotonous horrors. Monteiro and +Gamitto (p. 232) give an illustration of what is known in the +Cazembe's country as "Gomati:" The Mchua or gong-gong of Ashanti +has a wooden handle connecting the cones. Our palhabote had +brought up the chief Mashel's bier, and to-day we have the +satisfaction of seeing it landed. A kind of palanquin, covered +with crimson cloth and tinsel gold like a Bombay "Tabút," it had +three horns or prominences, two capped with empty black bottles, +and the central bearing the deceased's helmet; it was a fancy +article, which might have fitted him of Gath, with a terrific +plume and the spoils of three horses in the sanguine hues of war. +Although eight feet long by five broad, the coffin was said to be +quite full. The immense respect which the Congoese bear to their +rulers, dead as well as alive, prevented my verifying the +accounts of the slave dealers. I knew that the chief who had died +at Kinsembo, had been dried on a bamboo scaffolding over a slow +fire, and lay in state for some weeks in flannel stockings and a +bale of baize, but these regions abound in local variations of +custom. Some declared, as we find in Proyart, that the corpse had +been mummified by the rude process of smoking; others that it had +been exposed for some days to the open air, the relatives sitting +round to keep off the flies till preliminarily bandaged. +According to Barbot (iii. 23), the people of Fetu on the Gold +Coast and the men of Benin used to toast the corpse on a wooden +gridiron; and the Vei tribe, like the Congoese, still fumigate +their dead bodies till they become like dried hams. This rude +form of the Egyptian rite is known to East as well as to West +Africa: Kimera, late King of Uganda, was placed upon a board +covering the mouth of a huge earthern pot heated from below. + +Instances are known of bodies in the Congo region remaining a +year or two above ground till the requisite quantity of fine +stuffs has been procured--the larger the roll the greater the +dignity, and sometimes the hut must be pulled down before it can +be removed. Here, as on the Gold Coast, we find the Jewish +practice recorded by Josephus of converting the tomb into a +treasury; in the case of Mashel some £600 in gold and silver, +besides cloth, beads, and ornaments, shared, they say, his fate. +The missionaries vainly fought against these customs, which are +evidently of sentimental origin-- + + "Now bring the last sad gifts, with these + The last lament be said; + Let all that pleased and still may please + Be buried with the dead." + +The bier was borne by slaves, as the head men would not even look +at it; at times the carriers circled round, as if to deprecate +the idea that they were hurrying it to its bourne. The grave was +a pit fifteen to twenty feet deep, cut like a well, covered with +stones to keep out wild beasts, and planted round with the +cylindrical euphorbia by way of immortelles. + +I could not find out if the Congoese still practise the vivi- +sepulture so common on the Western Coast--the "infernal +sacrifices of man's flesh to the memory of relatives and +ancestors," as the old missioners energetically expressed +themselves. According to Battel, the "Giaghi" corpse was seated +as if alive in a vault; in this "infernal and noisome dungeon" +were placed two wives with their arms broken, and thus there was +no danger of the Zumbi or ghost killing men by reapparition. When +the king of Old Calabar died, a huge hole was dug, with an off +chamber for two sofas, one of which supported the dressed and +ornamented corpse. Personal attendants, such as the umbrella, +sword, and snuff-box bearers, holding the insignia of their +offices, together with sundry virgins, were either slaughtered or +thrown in alive, a rude in pace. Quantities of food and trade +goods, especially coppers, were heaped up; after which the pit +was filled and the ground was levelled. The less wealthy sort of +"gentlemen" here are placed in smaller graves near the villages; +and the slaves are still "buried with the burial of an ass,"-- +cast forth into the bush. + +Yet, by way of showing themselves kind to the dead, the Congoese +are "commonly very cruel to the living." Lately, a chief, called +from his wealth, "Chico de Ouro" (Golden Frank) died somewhat +suddenly. The Nganga or medicine man who, on such occasions, here +as elsewhere, has the jus vitæ et necis, was called in; he +charged one of the sons with parricide by witchcraft, and the +youth was at once pierced by the bayonets of his brothers. +"Golden Frank" was peculiar in his ways. He used to entertain the +factors at dinner, imitating them from soup to cheese; his only +objections were to tea, and to drinking toasts out of anything +but the pet skull of an enemy: it was afterwards placed upon his +grave. + +Boma is no longer "the emporium of the Congo Empire," if it ever +did deserve that title. Like Porto da Lenha, it is kept up by the +hopes of seeing better days, which are not doomed to dawn. Even +at the time of my visit some 400 to 500 negroes were under guard +in a deserted factory, and, whilst we were visiting Nessalla, +they were marched down to bathe. When I returned from the +cataracts, the barracoon contained only fifty or sixty, the rest +having been shunted off to some unguarded point. At a day's +notice a thousand, and within a week 3,000 head could be procured +from the adjoining settlements, where the chattels are kept at +work. As in Tuckey's day, "those exported are either captives in +war or condemned criminals." During the Free Emigration as much +as $80 have been paid per man, a large sum for "Congoes:" whilst +a cargo of 500 "Minas" (Guinea negroes) loses at most 20 per +cent., these less hardy gangs seldom escape without at least +double the deaths by dysentery or some other epidemic. Now they +are freely offered for $10 to $20, but there are no buyers; the +highest bid of which I heard was $100 for a house-"help." + +The slave-traders in the Congo look upon their employment as did +the contrabandist in the golden days of smuggling; the "free +sailor" whom Marryatt depicts, a law-breaker, yet not less a very +pleasant, companionable fellow. The unhappy differences between +the late British Commissioner for Loanda and the Judge of the +mixed Court, Sr. José Julio Rodriguez, who followed his enemy to +the grave on April 12, 1863, rendered São Paulo anything but a +pleasant place to an English resident; but the rancour had not +extended to the Congo, and, so far from showing chagrin, the +agents declared that without the "coffin squadron," negroes would +have been a mere drug in the market. The only déplaisir is that +which I had already found in a Gaboon factory, the excessive +prevalence of petty pilfering. The Moleques or house-boys steal +like magpies, even what is utterly useless to them; these young +clerks of St. Nicholas will scream and writhe, and confess and +beg pardon under the lash, and repeat the offence within the +hour: as they are born serviles, we cannot explain the habit by +Homer's, + + "Jove fixed it certain that whatever day + Makes man a slave takes half his worth away." + +One of our watches was found in the pocket of a noble +interpreter, who, unabashed, declared that he placed it there for +fear of its being injured; and the traders are constantly +compelled to call in the Fetishman for the protection of their +stores against the prigging chiefs. Yet in Tuckey's time there +was only one thief at Boma, a boy who stole a knife, confessed, +and restored it. During a month's residence amongst the pagans of +the interior, where the houses swarmed with serviles, and where +my outfit, which was never locked up, must have represented a +plate-chest in England, not the smallest article was "found +missing," nor could anything be touched except by collusion with +the head man. + + + + + + Chapter IX. + + Up the Congo to Banza Nokki. + +For a wonder the canoes came in time, and, despite their mat- +sails, we could not complain of them. There were twelve paddlers +two for the stem, and two for the stern of each craft, under a +couple of interpreters, Jotakwassi and Nchama-Chamvu, who were +habited in European frock-coats of broadcloth, and in native +terminations mostly "buff." Our excellent host bade us a kindly +adieu, with many auguries of success--during the last night the +frogs had made a noise in the house. Briefly, we set out on +September 6th. + +In the forty-five miles between Boma, where we enter the true +trough of the Congo, and the landing-place of Banza Nokki below +the cataracts, there are half-a-dozen reaches, the shortest of +three, the longest of fifteen miles. They are not straight, as +upon the chart; the windings of the bed exclude direct vision, +and the succession of points and bays suggest, like parts of the +Rhine, a series of mountain-tarns. The banks show the high-water +level in a low shelf, a ribbon of green, backed by high rolling +hills, rounded and stony, with grass dry at this season; the +formation is primitive, and the material of the lower bed has +been held to "prove the probability that the mountains of +Pernambuco, Rio de Janeiro, and other adjacent parts of South +America, were primevally connected with the opposite chains, that +traverse the plains of Congo and Loango." In parts the rocks fall +bluff into the river, and here the current rushes past like a +mill-race without a shadow of backwater. The heights are +intersected by gullies and ravines, of which I counted sixty-nine +on the right and fifty-four on the left bank; many of them are +well wooded, and others are fronted by plains of the reeds and +flags, which manufacture floating islands, cast loose, like those +of the Niger, about the end of July by the "Malka" rains. About a +dozen contained running water: Captain Tuckey did not see one +that would turn a mill in August and September; but in November +and December all these fiumaras will discharge torrents. + +The breadth of the entroughed bed varies from 700 yards to two +miles where it most dispreads itself. The current increases from +the normal three to five knots in rare places; the surface loses +the glassiness of the lower section, and at once shows the +boiling and swirling which will be noticed near the cataracts. +The shores are often foul, but the midway is mostly clear, and, +where sunken rocks are, they are shown by whirlpools. The flow of +the tide, or rather the damming up of the lower waters between +Porto da Lenha and the mouth, causes a daily rise, which we found +to measure about a foot; thus it assists in forming a treble +current, the rapid down-flow in the Thalweg being subtended by a +strong backwater on either side carrying a considerable portion +in a retrograde direction, and showing a sensible reflux; this +will continue as far as the rapids. In the Amazonas the tides are +felt a hundred leagues from the mouth; and, whilst the stream +moves seawards, the level of the water rises, proving an evident +under-current. Mr. Bates has detected the influence of oceanic +tides at a point on the Tapajos, 530 miles distant from its +mouth, such is the amazing flatness of the country's profile: +here we find the reverse. + +The riverine trough acts as wind-conductor to a strong and even +violent sea-breeze; on the lower section it begins as a ground- +current--if the "bull" be allowed--a thin horizontal stratum near +the water, it gradually curves and slides upwards as it meets the +mountain flanks, forming an inverted arch, and extending some +2,000 to 3,000 feet above the summits. At this season it is a +late riser, often appearing about 3 P.M., and sometimes its +strength is not exhausted before midnight. The brown water, +grass-sheeted at the sides, conceals the bright yellow sand of +the bed; when placed in a tumbler it looks clear and colourless, +and the taste is perfectly sweet--brackishness does not extend +far above Porto da Lenha. Yet at Boma the residents prefer a +spring near the factories, and attribute dysentery to the use of +river-water. According to Mr. George Maxwell, the supply of the +lower bed has the quality of rotting cables, and the same +peculiarity was attributed to the Tanganyika. + +Of late years no ship has ventured above Boma, and boats have +ascended with some difficulty, owing to the "buffing stream." Yet +there is no reason why the waters should not be navigated, as +proposed in 1816, by small steamers of good power, and the strong +sea-breeze would greatly facilitate the passage. In older and +more enterprising days merchant-schooners were run high up the +Zaire. The master of a vessel stated to Tuckey that he "had been +several voyages up to the distance of 140 miles from the mouth" +without finding any difficulty. + +Our course passed by Banza Chisalla where, as we had paid double, +there was a vain attempt to make us pay treble. Travelling up the +south-eastern reach, we passed a triangular insulated rock off +the southern bank, and then the "diabolitos" outlying Point Kilu, +opposite Banza Vinda on the other side. A second reach winding to +the north-east showed on the right Makula (Annan) River, and a +little further Munga-Mungwa (Woodhouslee); between them is the +terminus of the São Salvador road. On the northern bank where the +hills now become rounded mountains, 1,500 feet above the stream, +perches Chinimi the village of Manbuku Prata, who expects canoes +here to await his orders; and who was sorely offended because I +passed down without landing. The next feature of the chart, +Matádi "Memcandi," is a rocky point, not an island. Turning a +projection, Point Makula (Clough Corner), we entered No. 3, elbow +bending southeast; on its concave northern side appeared the +settlement Vinda la Nzádi. This is the Vinda le Zally of Tuckey; +on the chart Veinde len Zally, and according to others Vinda de +Nzadi, or village of the Zaire River. It is probably the "Benda" +of the Introduction (p. xxxiv.); and as b and v sound alike in +Fiote, Cabinda, Cabenda or Kabendah is evidently Ca-vinda--great +village. + +Our terminus that day was the usual resting-place of travellers, +"Mfumba" behind Nkumungu (Point) Kaziwa, a mass of granitoid +slabs, with a single tree for landmark. Opposite us was Sandi ya +Nzondo, which others call Sanga ya Ngondo; in the chart this one- +tree island is written "Catlo Zonda," it is the first of two +similar formations. Oscar Rock, its western (down stream) +neighbour, had shared the fate of "Soonga lem Paccula," (Zunga +chya Makula?) a stone placed in the map north-east of the Makula +or Annan debouchure; both were invisible, denoted only by swirls +in the water. We had taken seven hours to cover what we easily +ran down in two, and we slept comfortably with groan of rock and +roar of stream for lullaby. + +September 7.--Our course now lay uninterruptedly along the left +bank, where the scenery became yet more Rhine-like, in natural +basins, reaches on the chart: here and there rugged uprocks +passably simulated ruined castles. The dwarf bays of yellow sand +were girt by a goodly vegetation, the palm and the calabash only +telling us that we were in Africa. + +Our men pointed to the work of a Nguvu or hippopotamus, which +they say sometimes attacks canoes; they believe with Tuckey that +the river-horses cause irregularity of soundings by assembling +and trampling deep holes in the bed; but the Ngadi is a proof +that they do not, as M. du Chaillu supposes, exclusively affect +streams with shoals and shallows. The jacaré (crocodile) is known +especially to avoid the points where the current sweeps swiftly +past, yet no one will hang his hand over the canoe into the +water: we did not see any of these wretches, but at Boma Coxswain +Deane observed one about sixteen feet long. + +Curls of smoke arose from the mountain-walls of the trough, +showing that the bush was being burned; and spired up from a +grassy palm-dotted plain, between two rocky promontories on the +left bank, the site of the Chacha or Wembo village: in a gap of +the herbage stood half-finished canoes, and a man was bobbing +with rod, line, and float. After an hour's paddling we halted for +breakfast under "Alecto Rock," a sheer bluff of reddish schist, +150 feet high; here a white trident, inverted and placed ten feet +above the water, showed signs of H.M. Ship "Alecto," (late) +Captain Hunt, whose boat passed up in 1855. The people call it +Chimbongolo. The river is now three quarters of a mile wide, and +the charming cove shows the brightest of sands and the densest of +vegetation waving in the cool land-wind. + +Resuming our way at 9 P.M., we passed on the left "Scylla Rocks," +then a wash, and beyond them four high and tree-clad heads off +the right bank. Three are islets, the Zunga chya Gnombe--of the +bull--formed by a narrow arm passing round them to the north: +other natives called them Zunga chya Umbinda, but all seem to +differ. These are the Gombac Islands of the chart, Hall Island +being the easternmost, and the northern passage between the three +horns and the main is called by us "Gombac Creek." Half an hour +beyond was a mass of villages, in a large, grassy low-land of the +left bank, girt by mountains higher than those down stream. Some +outlying huts were called by the interpreters Suko Nkongo, and +formed the "beach town" of large interior settlements, Suko do +Wembo and Mbinda. Others said Lasugu or Sugo Nkongo, the Sooka +Congo of the charts: others again for "Mbinda" proposed "Mpeso +Birimba." This is probably the place where according to the mail +of November, ‘73, diamonds were found, and having been submitted +to "Dr. Basham (Dr. Bastian before mentioned), Director of the +Museum of Berlin," were pronounced to be of very fine water. It +is possible that the sandstone may afford precious stones like +the itacolumite of the Brazil ("Highlands of the Brazil," i. +380), but the whole affair proved a hoax. In mid-stream rose No. +2, "One-Tree Island," Zunga chya Nlemba or Shika chya Nzondo; in +Tuckey it is called Boola Beca or Blemba (the husband) Rock; the +old ficus dying at the head, was based upon a pedestal which +appeared groin-shaped from the east. Here the mirage was very +distinct, and the canoes seemed to fly, not to swim-- + + "As when far out of sea a fleet descried, + Hangs in the clouds." + + The northern bank shows a stony projection called by Maxwell +"Fiddler's Elbow;" it leads to the fourth reach, the second of +the north-eastern series; and the breadth of the stream, once +more a mountain lake, cannot be less than two miles. + +I foresaw trouble in passing these settlements. Presently a +snake-like war canoe with hawser-holes like eyes, crept out from +the southern shore; a second fully manned lay in reserve, lurking +along the land, and armed men crowned the rocks jutting into the +stream. We were accosted by the first craft, in which upon the +central place of honour sat Mpeso Birimbá, a petty chief of Suko +Nkongo; a pert rascal of the French factory, habited in a red +cap, a green velvet waistcoat, and a hammock-shaped tippet of +pine-apple fibre; his sword was a short Sollingen blade. The +visit had the sole object of mulcting me in rum and cloth, and my +only wish was naturally to expend as little as possible in mere +preliminaries. The name of Manbuku Prata was duly thrown at him +with but little effect: these demands are never resisted by the +slave-dealers. After much noise and cries of "Mwendi" (miser, +skin-flint) on the part of the myrmidons, I was allowed to +proceed, having given up a cloth twenty-four yards long, and I +felt really grateful to the "trade" which had improved off all +the other riverine settlements. Beyond this point we saw nothing +but their distant smokes. + +Before the second north-eastern reach, the interpreters exclaimed +"Yellala falla"--"the cataract is speaking," and we could +distinctly hear the cheering roar. The stream now assumed the +aspect of Niagara below the Falls, and the circular eddies +boiling up from below, and showing distinct convexity, suggested +the dangerous "wells" of the northern seas. Passing the "Three +Weird Sisters," unimportant rocks off, the right bank, we entered +upon the remarkably long stretch, extending upwards of five +miles, and, from its predominating growth, we proposed to call it +"Palmyra Reach." The immediate river banks were clad with sedge, +and the broad leaves of the nymphæa, a plant like the calamus of +Asia, but here used only as a toothpick, began to oust the rushy +and flaggy growth of the lower bed. The pink balls of the spinous +mimosa, and bright flowers, especially the convolvulus and +ipomaea, illuminated the dull green. The grassy land at the foot +of the mountains was a mere edging, faced by outlying rocks, and +we were shown the site of a village long ago destroyed. + +The Nteba, or palmyra nobilis, mixed here and there with a +glorious tamarind, bombax or calabash, forms a thin forest along +the reach, and rarely appears upon the upper hills, where we +should expect it. The people use both fruit and wine, preferring, +however, the liquor of the Ebah (oil palm-tree), and the autumnal +fires can hardly affect so sturdy a growth. The other trees are +the mfuma, cotton-tree or bombax (Pentandria truncospinoso, +Smith), much valued as a canoe: Merolla uses Mafuma, a plural +form, and speaks of its "wonderful fine wool." The wild figs show +glorious stature, a truly noble growth, whose parents were sun +and water. + +The birds were lank black clivers (Plotus), exceedingly wild; the +African roller (Coracias); halcyons of several species, +especially a white and black kingfisher, nimble and comely; many +swallows, horn-bills, and wild pigeons which made the bush +resound; ardeine birds, especially a heron, like the large Indian +"kullum;" kites, crows, "whip-poor-wills," and a fine haliaetus, +which flies high and settles upon the loftiest branches. One of +these eagles was shot, after a gorge of the electric fish here +common; its coat was black and white, and the eyes yellow, with +dark pupils. Various lizards ran over the rocks; and we failed to +secure a water-snake, the only specimen seen on the whole trip. + +About noon we struggled past Point Masalla, our "Diamond Rock," a +reef ending in a triangular block, towering abruptly, and showing +by drift-wood a flood-line now twelve feet high. There are +several of these "bench-marks;" and the people declare that after +every few years an unusual freshet takes place. Here the current +impinges directly upon the rocks, making a strong eddy. "They die +each time," said the interpreters, as the canoemen, with loud +shouts of "Vai ou nao Vai? Vai sempre! Vai direito, ya mondele!" +and "Arister," a mariner's word, after failing to force the way, +tumbled overboard, with a hawser of lliana to act as tow-line. +"Vai direito," according to Father Ciprani, also applies to a +"wonderful bird, whose song consists in these plain words;" and +"Mondele" is synonymous with the Utangáni of the Gaboon and the +East African Muzungu, a white man. + +This bend was in former days the terminus of canoe travel up +stream. Grisly tales of mishap are told; and even now a musketry +salute is fired when boats pass without accident. Beyond Diamond +Rock is a well-wooded, stony cove, "Salan Kunkati:" Captain +Tuckey makes this the name of the Diamond Rock, and translates it +"the strong feather." Quartz, before in lines and bands, now +appears in masses: the "Coal Rock," which the chart places near +Insála (Bechope Point) on the northern bank, was probably +submerged. High cliffs towered above us, and fragments which must +have weighed twenty tons had slipped into the water; one of them +bore an adansonia, growing head downwards. + +The next feature was Npunga Bay, low and leek-green, between the +blue-brown water, here some 700 yards broad, and the yellow sun- +burnt trough-sides. A little further on, at 2 P.M., the canoe-men +halted beyond a sandy point with two large "Bondeiro" trees, and +declared their part of the bargain to have been fulfilled. +"Bonderro" is a corruption of the Lusitanianized imbundeiro, the +calabash, or adansonia (digitata?): the other baobab is called +nkondo, probably the Aliconda and Elicandy of Battel and old +travellers, who describe the water-tanks hollowed in its huge +trunk, and the cloth made from the bark fibre. Thus the "Condo +Sonio" of the Chart should be "Nkondo Sonho," the latter a proper +name. It is seldom that we find trees turned to all the uses of +which they are capable: the Congo people despise the nutritious +and slightly laxative flour of the "monkey bread," and the young +leaves are not used as pickles; the bast is not valued for cloth +and ropes, nor are the boles cut into cisterns. + +As will be seen, we ought to have insisted upon being paddled to +Kala cliff and bight, the Mayumba Bay of the Chart, where the bed +trends west-east, and shows the lowest rapids: the First Congo +Expedition went up even higher. At Nkongo ka Lunga, the point +marked by two calabashes, we inquired for the Nokki Congo, of +which we had heard at Chisalla, and which still exists upon the +chart,--districts and villages being often confounded. All +laughed, and declared that the "port-town" had long been sold +off, the same had been the case, even in Tuckey's day, with the +next settlement, "Condo Sonio" (the Baobab of Sonho), formerly +the great up-stream mart, where the slave-traders transacted +their business. All the population was now transferred inland +and, like our predecessors, we were promised a two hours' climb +over the rough, steep highland which lay in front. Then we +understood that "Nokki" was the name of a canton, not of a +settlement. Its south-eastern limits may have contained the "City +of Norchie, the best situated of any place hitherto seen in +Ethiopia," where Father Merolla (p. 280) baptized 126 souls,--and +this is rendered probable by the crucifixes and coleworts which +were found by the First Congo Expedition. + +Here, then, at 97.50 miles from the sea, ended our clan's cruize. +We could only disembark upon the clean sand, surrounded by cool +shade and blocks of gneiss, the favourite halting-place, as the +husks of ground-nuts show. Nchama Chamvu was at once sent off +with a present of gin and a verbal report of arrival to +Nessudikira Nchinu, (King), of Banza Nkaye, whilst we made ready +for a night's lodging à la belle étoile. The mesenger returned, +bringing a goat, and the good news that porters would be sent +early next morning. We slept well in the cool and dewless air, +with little trouble from mosquitoes. The voice of the cataract in +its "sublime same-soundingness" alone broke the silence, and the +scenery suggested to us, as to the first Britishers, that we +might be bivouacking among the "blue misty hills of Morven." + +September 8.--Shortly after sunrise appeared Gidi Mavunga, father +to the "king," accompanied by five "princes," in the usual black +coats, and some forty slaves, armed with pistols, blunderbusses, +and guns of French and Yankee build. Our visitors wore the +official berretta, European shirts, that contrasted with coral +necklaces and rings of zinc, brass, and copper, and handsome +waistcoats, fronted by the well-tanned spoil of some "bush" +animal, generally a wild cat, hanging like a Scotch sporran--this +is and has long been the distinctive sign of a "gentleman." +According to John Barbot (Supplement, Churchill, v. 471), all men +in Loango were bound to wear a furskin over their clothes, viz., +of an otter, a tame cat, or a cat-o'-mountain; a "great wood or +wild cat, or an angali (civet-cat). Besides which, they had very +fine speckled spelts, called ‘ enkeny,' which might be worn only +by the king and his peculiar favourites." + +On the great man's mat was placed a large silver-handled dagger, +shaped somewhat like a fish-slicer; and the handsome hammocks of +bright-dyed cottons brought down for our use shamed our humble +ship's canvas. The visitors showed all that African câlinerie, +which, as fatal experience told me, would vanish for ever, +changing velvet paw to armed claws, at the first question of +cloth or rum. Meanwhile, we had only to visit their village "upon +the head of Gidi Mavunga." + +About 9 A.M. we attacked a true Via Dolorosa, the normal road of +the Lower Congo. The steep ascent of dry, clayey soil was strewed +with schist and resplendent silvery gneiss; quartz appeared in +every variety, crystallized and amorphous, transparent white, +opaque, dusky, and rusty. Tuckey's mica slate appears to be +mostly schist or gneiss: I saw only one piece of true slate which +had been brought from the upper bed. Merolla's talc is mostly +mica. + +Followed an equally rough descent to a water set in fetid mud, +its iridescence declaring the presence of iron; oozing out of the +ground, it discharges during rains into the river: and, +throughout the dry season, it keeps its little valley green with +trees and shrubs. I observed what appeared to be the Esere or +Calabar bean (Physostigma venenosum), whose hairy pod is very +distasteful to the travelling skin: it was a "Mucuna urens." + +Another scramble upon a highly inclined hogsback, where weather- +worn brown-black granite, protruded bone-like from the clay +flesh, placed us at the outlying village of Kinbembu, with its +line of palms; here the aneroid showed 1,322 feet. After a short +rest, the hammock men resumed work over a rough plateau: the +rises were scattered with brush-wood, and the falls were choked +with the richest vegetation. Every hill discharged its own +rivulet bubbling over the rock, and the waters were mostly +chalybeate. + +Presently appeared a kind of barracoon, a large square of thick +cane-work and thatch about eight feet high, the Fetish house of +the "Jinkimba" or circumcised boys, who received us with +unearthly yells. After a march of an hour and three +quarters,'covering five indirect and three direct miles in a +south-eastern rhumb, we reached Banza Nkaye, the royal village, +where the sympiesometer showed 1430 feet. Our bearers yelled +"Abububu!" showing that we had reached our destination, and the +villagers answered with a cry of "Abía-a-a!" The entrance was +triumphal: we left the river with a tail of fifty-six which had +swelled to 150 ragged followers. + +After a short delay we proceeded to the "palace," which was +distinguished from afar by a long projecting gable, forming a +cool verandah. Descending some three hundred feet, we passed a +familiar sight in Africa, where "arboribus suus horror inest." A +tree-trunk bore three pegged skulls somewhat white with age; +eight years ago they were taken off certain wizards who had +bewitched their enemies. A labyrinthine entrance of transparent +cane-work served to prevent indecent haste, and presently we +found ourselves in presence of the Mfumo, who of course takes the +title of "Le Rei." Nessudikira was a "blanc-bec," aged twenty or +twenty-one, who till lately had been a trading lad at Boma--now +he must not look upon the sea. He appeared habited in the usual +guy style: a gaudy fancy helmet, a white shirt with limp Byronic +collar, a broad-cloth frock coat, a purple velvet gold-fringed +loin-wrap: a theatrical dagger whose handle and sheath bore cut- +glass emeralds and rubies, stuck in the waist-belt; brass anklets +depended over naked feet, and the usual beadle's cloak covered +the whole. Truly a change for the worse since Tuckey's day, when +a "savage magnificence" showed itself in the display of lions' +and leopards' skins; when no women were allowed to be present, +and when the boys could only clap hands: now the verandah is +surrounded by a squatting crowd and resounds with endless chatter +and scream. + +Nessudikira, whose eyes by way of grandeur never wandered from +the floor, shook hands with us without rising from his chair, +somewhat after the fashion of certain women in civilized society, +who would be dignified, and who are not. His father, Gidi +Mavunga, knelt before him on the ground, a mat being forbidden in +the presence: he made the "batta-palmas" before he addressed his +"filho de pistola," as he called him, in opposition to filho de +fazenda. The "king" had lately been crowned in virtue of his +mother being a uterine sister of his predecessor. Here the goods +and dignity of the father revert after death to his eldest +maternal brother; to his eldest nephew, that is, the eldest son +of the eldest uterine sister, and, all others failing, to the +first born of the nearest maternal relative. This subjection of +sire to son is, however, mainly ceremonious: in private life the +king wears a cotton pagne, and his "governor" asserts his birth- +right even by wigging royalty. + +We disposed ourselves upon seamen's chests covered with red +baize, fronting the semi-circle of frock-coated "gentlemen" and +half-naked dependants and slaves. Proceedings began with the +"mata-bicho" de rigueur, the inevitable preliminary and +conclusion of all life-business between birth and burial. The +Congo traveller will hear "Nganna! mata bicho" (Master! kill the +worm, i.e., give me a dram), till the words seem, like +"Bakhshish" further east, to poison his ears. This excuse for a +drink arose, or is said to have arisen, from some epidemic which +could be cured only by spirits, and the same is the tradition in +the New World ("Highlands of the Brazil," i. chap. 38). Similarly +the Fulas of the Windward coast, who as strict Moslem will not +drink fermented liquors, hold a cup of rum to be the sovereignest +thing in the world for taenia. The entozoon of course gives rise +to a variety of stale and melancholy jokes about the early bird, +the worm that dieth not, and so forth. + +A greybeard of our gin was incontinently opened and a tumbler in +a basin was filled to overflowing; even when buying ground-nuts, +the measure must be heaped up. The glass was passed round to the +"great gentlemen," who drank it African fashion, expanding the +cheeks, rinsing the mouth so that no portion of the gums may lose +their share, and swallowing the draught with an affectedly wry +face. The basin then went to the "little gentlemen" below the +salt, they have the "vinum garrulum," and they scrambled as well +as screamed for a sup of the precious liquor. I need hardly quote +Caliban and his proposed genuflections. + +I had been warned by all the traders of the lower river that +Banza Nokki would be to me the far-famed point of which it was +said, + + "Quern passar o Cabo de Nam + Ou tornará, ou n o," + +and prepared accordingly. Old Shimbal, the linguist, had declared +that a year would be required by the suspicious "bush-men" to +palaver over the knotty question of a stranger coming only to +"make mukanda," that is to see and describe the country. M. +Pissot was forbidden by etiquette to recognize his old employé +(honours change manners here as in Europe), yet he set about the +work doughtily. My wishes were expounded, and every possible +promise of hammocks and porters, guides and interpreters, was +made by the hosts. The royal helmet was then removed, and a +handsome burnous was drawn over the king's shoulders, the hood +covering the berretta in most grotesque guise. After which the +commander and M. Pissot set out for the return march, leaving me +with my factotum Selim and the youth Nchama Chamvu. To the +question "Quid muliere levius?" the scandalous Latin writer +answers "Nihil," for which I would suggest "Niger." At the +supreme moment the interpreter, who had been deaf to the +charmer's voice (offering fifty dollars) for the last three days, +succumbed to the "truant fever." He knew something of Portuguese; +and, having been employed by the French factory, he had scoured +the land far and wide in search of "emigrants." He began well; +cooked a fowl, boiled some eggs, and made tea; after which he +cleared out a hut that was declared très logeable, and found a +native couch resembling the Egyptian kafas. + +We slept in a new climate: at night the sky was misty, and the +mercury fell to 60° (F.). There was a dead silence; neither beast +nor bird nor sound of water was heard amongst the hills; only at +times high winds in gusts swept over the highlands with a +bullying noise, and disappeared, leaving everything still as the +grave. I felt once more "at home in the wilderness"--such, +indeed, it appeared after Boma, where the cockney-taint yet +lingered. + + + + + + Chapter X. + + Notes on the Nzadi or Congo River. + + + +And first, touching the name of this noble and mysterious stream. +Diogo Cam, the discoverer in 1485, called it River of Congo, +Martin von Behaim Rio de Padrao, and De Barros "Rio Zaire." The +Portuguese discoveries utilized by Dapper thus corrupted to the +sonorous Zaïre, the barbarous Nzadi applied by the natives to the +lower bed. The next process was that of finding a meaning. +Philippo Pigafetta of Vicenza,[FN#10] translated Zaïre by "so, +cioè Sapio in Latino;" hence Sandoval[FN#11] made it signify "Rio +de intendimiento," of understanding. Merolla duly records the +contrary. "The King of Portugal, Dom John II., having sent a +fleet under D. Diego Cam to make discoveries in this Southern +Coast of Africa, that admiral guessed at the nearness of the land +by nothing so much as by the complexion of the waters of the +Zaire; and, putting into it, he asked of the negroes what river +and country that was, who not understanding him answered +‘Zevoco,' which in the Congolan tongue is as much as to say ‘I +cannot tell;' from whence the word being corrupted, it has since +been called Zairo." + +D'Anville (1749), with whom critical African geography began, +records "Barbela," a southern influent, perhaps mythical, named +by his predecessors, and still retained in our maps: it is the +Verbele of Pigafetta and the Barbele of Linschoten, who make it +issue either from the western lake-reservoir of the Nile, or from +the "Aquilunda" water, a name variously derived from O-Calunga, +the sea (?), or from A-Kilunda, of Kilunda (?) The industrious +compiler, James Barbot (1700), mentions the "Umbre," the modern +Wambre, rising in the northern mountains or, according to P. +Labat, in a lake: Dapper (1676), who so greatly improved the +outline of Africa, had already derived with De Barros the "Rio +Zaïre" from a central reservoir "Zaïre," whose island, the +Zembre, afterwards became the Vambere, Wambre, and Zambere, now +identified through the Zambeze with the Maravi, Nyassa or Kilwa +water. The second or northernmost branch is the Bancora of modern +maps, the Brankare of Pigafetta, and the Bancari of Cavazzi; it +flows from the same mountain as the Umbre, and Duarte Lopez +(1560) causes it to mingle with the Zaire on the eastern borders +of Pango, at the foot of the Sierra del Crystal. In certain +modern maps the Bankare fork is called "Lekure,"and is made to +receive the "Bambaye." The Barbela again anastomoses with the +Luba (?) or northern section of the Coango, including its +influent, the Lubilash; the Kasai (Kasabi) also unites with the +Coango, and other dotted lines show the drainage of the Lualaba +into the Kasai. + +The Portuguese, according to Vasconcello, shunning all fanciful +derivations, were long satisfied to term the Congo "Rio de +Patron" (Rio do Padrao) from the first of memorial columns built +at its mouth. In 1816 Captain Tuckey's expedition learned with +Maxwell that the stream should be called, not Zaire, but Moienzi +Enzaddi, the "great river" or the "river which absorbs all other +rivers." This thoroughly corrupted name, which at once found its +way into popular books, and which is repeated to the present day +even by scientific geographers, suggested to some theorists +"Zadi," the name of the Niger at Wassenah according to Sidi +Harriet, as related by the American, James Riley, of the brig +"Commerce," wrecked on August 28, 1815: others remembered "Zad" +which Shaykh Yusuf (Hornemann), misleading Mungo Park, learned to +be the Niger east of Tinbuktu, "where it turns off to the +southward." I need hardly say that this "Zadi" and "Zad" are +evident corruptions of Bahr Shady, Shary, Shari, Chad, Tsad, and +Chadda, the swampy lake, alternately sweet and brackish, which +was formerly thrown by mistake into the Chadda River, now called +the Binue or Bimúwe, the great eastern fork of the Negro-land +Nile: the true drainage of the Chadda in ancient times has lately +been determined by the adventurous Dr. Nachtigal. Mr. +Cooley[FN#12] applied, as was his wont, a superficial knowledge +of Kibundo to Fiote or Congoese, and further corrupted Moienzi +Enzaddi to Muenya (for Menha or Menya) Zinzádi-this Angolan +"emendation," however, was not adopted. + +The natives dwelling upon the Congo banks have, as usual in +Africa, no comprehensive generic term for the mighty artery of +the West Coast. Each tribe calls it by its own name. Thus even in +Fiote we find "Mulángo," or "Lángo," the water; "Nkoko," the +stream, "Mwánza," the river, and "Mwanza Nnenne," the great +river, all used synonymously at the several places. The only +proper name is Mwánza Nzádi, the River Nzadi: hence Zaire, Zaïre, +Zahir, Zaira the "flumen Congo olim Zaida" (C. Barlé)--all +corruptions more or less common. + +The homogeneous form of the African continent causes a whimsical +family resemblance, allowing for the difference of northern and +southern hemispheres, in its four arterial streams--the Nile and +Niger, the Congo and Zambeze. I neglect the Limpopo, called in +its lower bed Espirito Santo, Maniça, Manhiça (Manyisa), and +Delagoa River; the Cunene (Nourse) River, the Orange River, and +others, which would be first-rate streams in Europe, but are mere +dwarfs in the presence of the four African giants. The Nile and +Niger, being mainly tenanted by Moslemized and comparatively +civilized races, have long been known, more or less, to Europe. +The Zambeze, owing to the heroic labours of Dr. Livingstone, is +fast becoming familiar to the civilized world; and the Congo is +in these days (1873) beginning at last to receive the attention +which it deserves. It is one of the noblest known to the world. +Whilst the Mississippi drains a basin of 1,244,000 English square +miles, and at Carrollton, in Louisiana, discharges as its mean +volume for the year 675,000 cubic feet of water per second, the +Congo, with a valley area of 800,000 square miles, rolls at least +2,500,000 feet. Moreover, should it prove a fact that the Nzadi +receives the Chambeze and its lakes, the Bangweolo (or Bemba), +the Moero, near which stands the capital of the Cazembe, the +Kamalondo, Lui or Ulenge, "Lake Lincoln" (Chibungo), and other +unvisited waters, its area of drainage will nearly equal that of +the Nile. + +The four arteries all arise in inner regions of the secondary +age, subtended east and west by ghats, or containing mountains +mostly of palaeozoic or primary formation, the upheaval of +earthquakes and volcanoes. These rims must present four distinct +water-sheds. The sea-ward slopes discharge their superabundance +direct to the ocean often in broad estuaries like the Gambia and +the Gaboon, still only surface drains; whilst the counterslopes +pour inland, forming a network of flooded plains, perennial +swamps, streams, and lakes. The latter, when evaporation will not +balance the supply to a "sink," "escape from the basin of the +central plateau-lands, and enter the ocean through deep lateral +gorges, formed at some ancient period of elevation and +disturbance, when the containing chains were subject to +transverse fractures." All four head in the region of tropical +rains, the home of the negro proper, extending 35° along the +major axis of the continent, between Lake Chad (north latitude +14° to 15°), and the Noka a Batletle or Hottentot Lake, known to +the moderns as Ngami (south latitude 20° to 21°). Consequently +all are provided with lacustrine reservoirs of greater or smaller +extent, and are subject to periodical inundations, varying in +season, according as the sun is north or south of the line. Those +of the northern hemisphere swell with the "summer rains of +Ethiopia," a fact known in the case of the Nile to Democritus of +Abdera (5th cent. B.C.), to Agatharchidas of Cnidos (2nd cent. +B.C.) to Pomponius Nida, to Strabo (xvii. 1), who traces it +through Aristotle up to Homer's "heaven-descended stream" and to +Pliny (v. 10). For the same reason the reverse is the case with +the two southern arteries; their high water, with certain +limitations in the case of the Congo, is in our winter. + +By the condition of their courses, all the four magnates are +broken into cataracts and rapids at the gates where they burst +through the lateral chains; the Mosi-wa-túnya (smoke that +thunders) of the Zambeze, and the Ripon Falls discovered by +Captains Speke and Grant upon the higher Nile, are the latest +acquisitions to geography, whilst the "Mai waterfall," reported +to break the Upper Congo, still awaits exploration. This accident +of form suggests a division of navigation on the maritime section +and on the plateau-bed which, in due time, will be connected, +like the St. Lawrence, by canals and railways. All but the Nzadi, +and perhaps even this, have deltas, where the divided stream, +deficient in water-shed, finds its sluggish way to the sea. + +The largest delta at present known is the Nigerian, whose base +measures 155 direct geographical miles between the Rivers Kontoro +east, and Benin west. Pliny (v. 9) makes the Nile delta extend +170 Roman miles, from the Canopic or African to the Pelusiac or +Asiatic mouth, respectively distant from the apex 146 and 166 +miles; the modern feature has been reduced to 80 miles from east +to west, and a maximum of 90 from north to south. The Zambeze +extends 58 miles between the Kilimani or northern and the west +Luabo, Cuama or southern outlet-at least, if these mouths are not +to be detached. The Nzadi is the smallest, measuring a maximum of +only 12 to 15 miles from the Malela or Bananal Creek to the +mangrove ditches of the southern shore. + +In these depressed regions the comparatively salubrious climates +of the uplands become dangerous to the European; the people also +are degraded, mostly pirates and water-thieves, as the Nigerian +Ibos, the Congoese Musulungus, and the Landim (Amalandi) Kafirs +about the lower Zambeze. There is a notable similarity in their +productions, partly known to Pliny (v. 8), who notices "the +calamus, the papyrus, and the animals" of the Nigris and the +Nile. The black-maned lion and the leopard rule the wold; the +gorilla, the chimpanzee, and other troglodytes affect the thinner +forests; the giraffe, the zebra, and vast hosts of antelopes +scour the plains; the turtle swims the seas; and the +hippopotamus, the crocodile, and various siluridae, some of +gigantic size, haunt the lakes and rivers. The nymphæa, lotus or +water-lily, forms rafts of verdure; and the stream-banks bear the +calabash, the palmyra, the oil-palm, and the papyrus. Until late +years it was supposed that the water-lily, sacred to Isis, had +been introduced into Egypt from India, where it is also a +venerated vegetable, and that it had died out with the form of +Fetishism which fostered it. It has simply disappeared like the +crocodile from the Lower Nile. Finally, to conclude this rapidly +outlined sketch, all at the present moment happily share the same +fate; they are being robbed of their last mysteries; the veil of +Isis is fast yielding to the white man's grasp. + +We can hardly as yet answer the question whether the Congo was +known to the ancients. Our acquaintance with the oldest +explorations is at present fragmentary, and we are apt to assume +that the little told us in our school-books is the sum-total of +former exploits. But possibly inscriptions in the New World, as +well as in the Old, may confirm the "first circumnavigation" so +simply recounted by Herodotus, especially that of the +Phoenicians, who set out from the Red Sea, and in three years +returned to the Mediterranean. The expression, "they had the sun +to the right," is variously explained. In the southern hemisphere +the sailors facing west during our winter would see the sun at +noon on the right, and in the northern hemisphere on the left. +But why should they face west? In the "Chronicle" of Schedel (p. +ccxc., printed in 1793, Pigafetta, Pinkerton, xi. 412) we read: +"These two, (i.e. Jacob Cam and Martin Behem, or Behaim) by the +help of the gods, ploughing the sea at short distance from shore, +having passed the equinoctial line, entered the nether +hemisphere, where, fronting the east, their shadow fell towards +the south, and on their right hand." Perhaps it may simply allude +to the morning sun, which would rise to port as they went +southwards, and to starboard as they returned north. Again, the +"First Overland Expedition" is related by the Father of History +with all the semblance of truth. We see no cause to doubt that +the Nasammones or Nasamones (Nás Amún), the five young Lybians of +the Great Syrtis (Fezzan) crossed the <Greek> (watered +strip along the Mediterranean), passed through the +<Greek> (the "bush") on the frontier, still famed for +lions, and the immeasurably sandy wastes (the Sahara proper, +across which caravan lines run). The "band of little black men" +can no longer be held fabulous, since Miani and Schweinfurth +added the Akya to M. du Chaillu's Obongo. The extensive marshes +were the northern limit of the tropical rains, and the "City of +Enchanters" is the type of many still existing in inner Africa. +The great river flowing from west to east, whose crocodiles +showed it to be the Nile, must have been the Niger. The ancients +knew middle Ethiopia to be a country watered by lakes and +streams: Strabo (xvii. 3) tells us that "some suppose that even +the Nile-sources are near the extremities of Mauritania." Hence, +too, the Nilides, or Lake of Standing Water in Pliny (v. 10). For +the most part they made a great central river traverse the +northern continent from west to east, whereas the Arabian +geographers of the middle ages, who were followed by the +Portuguese, inverted the course. Both may be explained by the lay +of the Quorra and the Binúwe, especially the latter; it was +chronically confounded with the true Nile, whose want of western +influents was not so well known then as now. + +The generation which has discovered the "Moabite Stone," the +ruins of Troy (Schliemann), and the key to the inscriptions of +Etruria (Corssen), need not despair of further progress. It has +been well remarked that, whereas the course of modern exploration +has generally been maritime, the ancients, whose means of +navigation were less perfect, preferred travelling by land. We +are, doubtless, far better acquainted with the outlines of the +African coast, and the immediately maritime region, than the +Egyptians, the Greeks, the Romans, and the Arabs. But it is still +doubtful whether their information respecting the interior did +not surpass ours. Eratosthenes, librarian of Alexandria (B. C. +276-196) expresses correct notions concerning the upper course of +the Nile; Marinus of Tyre[FN#13] had the advantage of borrowing +from the pilot, Diogenes, who visited the Nile reservoirs of +central inter-tropical Africa, and Ptolemy has been justified in +certain important points by our latest explorations. + +No trace of the Nzadi or Congo is to be found in the Pelusian +geographer, whose furthest point is further north. In the "Tabula +Rotunda Rogeriana" of A. D. 1154 (Lelewel, No. X.) two lakes are +placed upon the equator, and the north-western discharges to the +Atlantic the river Kauga or Kanga, which the learned Mr. Hogg +suspected to be the Congo. Marino Sanudo (1321), who has an idea +of Guinea (Ganuya) and of Zanzibar (Zinziber), here bends Africa +to the south-east, and inscribes, "Regio inhabitabilis propter +calorem." Fra Mauro (1457) reduces "Ethiopia Occidentalis et +Australis" to the minimum, and sheds the stream into the F. Xebe +(Webbe or Galla-Somal River). Martin von Behaim of Nürnberg +(1492) in whose day Africa began to assume her present form, +makes the Rio de Padron drain the western face of the Montes +Lunae. Diogo Ribera, chief pilot of the Indies under Charles V. +(Seville, 1529) further corrects the shape of the continent, and +places the R. do Padrão north, and the Rio dos Boms Sinhaes +(Zambeze) south of the Montes Lunae. Mercator and Henry Hondt +(1623) make the Zaire Lacus the northern part of the Zembre +Lacus. John Senex (circ. 1712) shows the "R. Coango," the later +Quango, believed to be the great south-western fork of the Congo. +It is not a little peculiar that the last of the classics, +Claudius Claudianus, an Alexandrian Christian withal, describes +the Gir, or Girrhaeus, with peculiarly Congoese features. In "De +laud. Stilicho." (lib. i. 252) we have-- + + "Gir, notissimus amnis + Æthiopum, simili mentitus gurgite Nilum." + +And again ("Eidyll. in Nilum," 20): + + "Hunc bibit infrenis Garamas, domitorque ferarum + Girrhæus, qui vasta colit sub rupibus antra, + Qui ramos ebeni, qui denies vellit eburnos." + +Here we find a Wady or torrent discharging into the +Mediterranean, made equal to "Egypt's heaven-descended stream;" +caused to flow under great rocks, as the Niger was long believed +to pass underground to the Nile, of which it was a western +branch; and said to supply ebony, which is the characteristic not +even of the Niger regions, but of the Zaire.[FN#14] A little of +this peculiar and precious commodity is produced by Old Calabar, +east of the Nigerian delta, and southwards it becomes common. + +Pliny (v. i) places his Gir (which some editions read "Niger") +"some distance" beyond the snowy Atlas. Ptolemy (iv. 6) tells us +"in Mediterraneâ verò fluunt amnes maximi, nempe Gir conjungens +Usargalam montem et vallem Garamanticam, à quo divertens amnis +continet secundum situm (east longitude) 42° (north latitude)-- +16°." Again: "Et Nigir fluvius jungens et ipse Mandrum" (Mandara, +south of Lake Chad?) "et Thala montes" (the range near the +western coast on the parallel of Cabo Blanco?). "Facit autem et +hic Nigritem Paludem" (Lake Dibbie or Debu, north-east of Sego +and Sansanding?) cujus situs 15°-18°." + +Here the Gir, Ger, Gar, or Geir is clearly laid down as a +Mediterranean stream, whilst "Niger" gave rise to the confusion +of the Senegal with the true Niger. The name has greatly +exercised commentators' ingenuity. D'Anville believes the Niger +and the Gir to end in the same quarter of Africa, and the latter +to be entirely unknown. Gosselin, agreeing with Pliny, whose Ger +is the Nigir of the Greeks, places them south of the Atlas. Mr. +Leake (loc. cit.) holds all conjecture useless. Not so the Rev. +M. Tristram, whose geography is of the ornithological or bird's- +eye order. In "The Great Sahara" (pp. 362-4, Appendix I.), he +asks, "May not the name Giris or Gir be connected with Djidi?" i. +e. the Wadi Mzi, a mean sink in El Areg, south of Algeria. +Gräberg ("Morocco") had already identified it with the Ghir, +which flows through Sagelmessa; Burckhardt with the Jir, "a large +stream coming from about north latitude 10°, and flowing north- +west through the Wadaí, west of the borders of Dar-Fur." No +wonder that some geographers are disposed to believe Gir, Giris, +Ger, and Geir to be "a general native name for a river, like Bá" +(Bahr), "Bi" (in many Central African tongues a river, +Schweinfurth, ii. 241), "Quorra (Kwara), Gulbi and Gambaru (the +Yeou), Shadda, and Enzaddi." + +It is still interesting to consider the circumstances which gave +rise to Captain Tuckey's disastrous expedition. As any map of +Africa during the early quarter of the present century, Bowdich +or Dupuis for instance, may prove, the course of the Niger was +laid down, now according to the ancients, then after Arab +information. The Dark Continent, of which D'Anville justly said +that writers abused, "pour ainsi dire, de la vaste carrière que +l'intérieur y laissait prendre" ("Mém. de l'Acad. des +Inscriptions," xxvi. 61), had not been subjected to scientific +analysis; this was reserved for the Presidential Address to the +Royal Geographical Society by the late Sir R. I. Murchison, 1852. +Geographers did not see how to pass the Niger through the" Kong +Mountains, which, uniting with the Jebel Komri, are supposed to +run in one unbroken chain across the continent;" and these Lunar +Mountains of the Moslems, which were "stretched like a chaplet of +beads from east to west," undoubtedly express, as M. du Chaillu +contends, a real feature, the double versant, probably a mere +wave of ground between the great hydrographic basins of the Niger +and the Congo, of North Africa and of Central Africa. Men still +wasted their vigour upon the Nigritis Palus, the Chelonídes +waters, the Mount Caphas, and the lakes of Wangara, variously +written Vancara and Vongara, not to mention other ways. Maps +place "Wangara"to the north-west of Dahome, where the natives +utterly ignore the name. Dupuis ("Ashantee," 1824) suggests that, +like "Takrúr," it is an obsolete Moslem term for the 660 miles of +maritime region between Cape Lahu and the Rio Formoso or the Old +Calabar River. This would include the three despotisms, Ashanti, +Dahome, and Benin, with the tribes who, from a distance of +twenty-five days, bring gold to Tinbuktu (the Tungubutu of De +Barros, i. 220). Thus the lakes of Wangara would be the lagoons +of the Slave-coast, in which the Niger may truly be said to lose +itself. + +At length M. Reichard, of Lobenstein ("Ephémerides +Géographiques," Weimar, 1802), theoretically discovered the mouth +of the Niger, by throwing it into the Bight of Benin. He was +right in essentials and wrong in details; for instance, he +supposed the Rio Formoso or Benin River and the Rio del Rey to +join in one great stream beyond the flat alluvial delta: whereas +the former is indirectly connected through the Wari with the +Niger, and the latter has no connection with it at all. The truth +was received with scant courtesy, and the hypothesis was +pronounced to be "worthy of very little attention." There were, +however, honourable exceptions. In 1813, the learned Malte-Brun +("Précis de la Géographie Universelle," vol. iv. 635) sanctioned +the theory hinted at by Mungo Park, and in 1828 the well-abused +Caillié, a Frenchman who had dared to excel Bruce and Mungo Park, +wrote these remarkable words: "If I may be permitted to hazard an +opinion as to the course of the River Dhioliba, I should say that +it empties itself by several mouths into the Bight of Benin." In +1829, fortified by Clapperton's opinion, my late friend, James +Macqueen, who to immense industry added many qualifications of a +comparative geographer, recommended a careful examination of the +estuaries between the Rio Formoso and Old Calabar. The question +was not finally set at rest till 1830 (November 15th), when +Richard and John Lander entered Yoruba viâ Badagry and, +triumphantly descending the lower Niger, made the sea by the +"Nun" and Brass embouchures. + +Meanwhile, Mr. George Maxwell, a Scotchman who had long traded in +the Congo, and who subsequently published a chart of the lower +river proposed, at the end of the last century, to take from +England six supernumerary boats for rowing and sailing, which +could be carried by thirty people and portaged round the +cataracts. This gave rise to Captain Tuckey's first error, +depending upon labour and provisions, which were not to be had +"for love or money" anywhere on the Congo above the Yellala. With +thirty or forty black rowers, probably Cabinda men, Maxwell +advised navigating the river about May, when the Cacimbo or dry +season begins; and with arms, provisions, and merchandize he +expected to reach the sources in six weeks. The scheme, which was +rendered abortive by the continental war of 1793, had two +remarkable results. It caused Mungo Park's fatal second journey, +and it led to the twin expeditions of Tuckey and Peddie. + + +In July, 1804, the ardent and irrepressible Scot wrote from +Prior's Lynn, near Longtown, to a friend, Mr. William Kier, of +Milholm, that the river "Enzaddi" was frequented by Portuguese, +who found the stream still as large as near the mouth, after +ascending 600 miles. It is useful to observe how these distances +are obtained. The slave-touters for the Liverpool and other +dealers used, we are told, to march one month up country, and +take two to return. Thirty days multiplied by twenty miles per +diem give 600 miles. I need hardly point out that upon such a +mission the buyer would be much more likely to travel 60 miles +than 600 in a single month, and I believe that the natives of the +lower river never went beyond Nsundi, or 215 indirect miles from +Point Padrão. + +With truly national tenacity and plausibility Perfervidum +Ingenium contended that the Congo or Zaire was the Nigerian +debouchure. Major Rennell, who had disproved the connection of +the Niger and the Egyptian Nile by Bruce's barometric +measurements on the course of the mountain-girt Bahr el Azrak, +and by Brown's altitudes at Darfur, condemned the bold theory for +the best of reasons. + +Mungo Park, after a brief coldness and coquetting with it, hotly +adopted to the fullest extent the wild scheme. Before leaving +England (Oct. 4, 1804), he addressed a memoir to Lord Camden, +explaining the causes of his conversion. It is curious to note +his confusion of "Zad," his belief that the "Congo waters are at +all seasons thick and muddy," and his conviction that "the annual +flood," which he considered perpetual, "commences before the +rains fall south of the equator." The latter is to a certain +extent true; the real reason will presently be given. Infected by +the enthusiasm of his brother Scot, he adds, "Considered in a +commercial point of view, it is second only to the discovery of +the Cape of Good Hope; and, in a geographical point of view, it +is certainly the greatest discovery that remains to be made in +this world." + +Thereupon the traveller set out for the upper Niger with the +conviction that he would emerge by the Congo, and return to +England viâ the West Indies. From the fragments of his Journal, +and his letters to Lord Camden, to Sir Joseph Banks, and to his +wife, it is evident that at San-sanding he had modified his +theories, and that he was gradually learning the truth. To the +former he writes, "I am more and more inclined to think that it +(the Niger) can end nowhere but in the sea;" and presently a +guide, who had won his confidence, assured him that the river, +after passing Kashna, runs directly to the right hand, or south, +which would throw it into the Gulf of Guinea. + +The fatal termination of Park's career in 1805 lulled public +curiosity for a time, but it presently revived. The geographical +mind was still excited by the mysterious stream which evaporation +or dispersion drained into the Lake-swamps of Wangara, and to +this was added not a little curiosity concerning the lamented and +popular explorer's fate. We find instructions concerning Mungo +Park issued even to cruizers collecting political and other +information upon the East African coast; e.g., to Captain Smee, +sent in 1811 by the Bombay Government. His companion, Lieutenant +Hardy, converted Usagára, west of the Zanzibar seaboard, into +"Wangarah," and remarks, "a white man, supposed to be Park, is +said to have travelled here twenty years ago" ("Observations," +&c.). + +About ten years after Mungo Park's death, two expeditions were +fitted out by Government to follow up his discovery. Major Peddie +proceeded to descend the Niger, and Captain Tuckey to ascend the +Congo. We have nothing to say of the former journey except that, +as in the latter, every chief European officer died--Major +Peddie, Captain Campbell, Lieutenant Stokoe, and M. Kummer, the +naturalist. The expedition, consisting of 100 men and 200 +animals, reached Kakundy June 13, 1817, and there fell to pieces. +Concerning the Zaire Expedition, which left Deptford on February +16, 1816, a few words are advisable. + +The personnel was left to the choice of the leader, Commander J. +K. Tuckey, R. N. (died). There were six commissioned officers-- +Lieutenant John Hawkey, R.N. (died); Mr. Lewis Fitz-maurice, +master and surveyor; Mr. Robert Hodder and Mr. Robert Beecraft, +master's mates; Mr. John Eyre, purser (died); and Mr. James +McKerrow, assistant surgeon. Under these were eight petty +officers, four carpenters, two blacksmiths, and fourteen able +seamen. The marines numbered one sergeant, one corporal, and +twelve privates. Grand total of combatants, forty-nine. To these +were added five "savants": Professor Chetien Smith, a Norwegian +botanist and geologist (died); Mr. Cranch, collector of objects +of natural history (died); Mr. Tudor, comparative anatomist +(died); Mr. Galway, Irishman and volunteer naturalist (died); and +"Lockhart, a gardener" (of His Majesty's Gardens, Kew). There +were two Congo negroes, Benjamin Benjamins and Somme Simmons; the +latter, engaged as a cook's mate, proved to be a "prince of the +blood," which did not prevent his deserting for fear of the +bushmen. + +The allusions made to Mr. Cranch, a "joined methodist," and a +"self-made man," are not complimentary. "Cranch, I fear," says +Professor Smith, "by his absurd conduct, will diminish the +liberality of the captain towards us: he is like a pointed arrow +to the company." And, again, "Poor Cranch is almost too much the +object of jest; Galway is the principal banterer."In the +Professor's remarks on the" fat purser,"we can detect the +foreigner, who, on such occasions, should never be mixed up with +Englishmen. + +Sir Joseph Banks had suggested a steamer drawing four feet, with +twenty-four horse-power; an admirable idea, but practical +difficulties of construction rendered the "Congo" useless. Of the +fifty-four white men, eighteen, including eleven of the "Congo" +crew, died in less than three months. Fourteen out of a party of +thirty officers and men, who set out to explore the cataracts viâ +the northern bank, lost their lives; and they were followed by +four more on board the "Congo," and one at Bahia. The expedition +remained in the river between July 6th and October 18th, little +more than three months; yet twenty-one, or nearly one-third, +three of the superior officers and all the scientific men, +perished. Captain Tuckey died of fatigue and exhaustion (Oct. +4th) rather than of disease; Lieutenant Hawkey, of fatal typhus +(which during 1862 followed the yellow fever, in the Bonny and +New Calabar Rivers); and Mr. Eyre, palpably of bilious remittent. +Professor Smith had been so charmed with the river, that he was +with difficulty persuaded to return. Prostrated four days +afterwards by sickness on board the transport, he refused physic +and food, because his stomach rejected bark, and, preferring cold +water, he became delirious; apparently, he died of +disappointment, popularly called a "broken heart." Messrs. Tudor +and Cranchalso fell victims to bilious remittents, complicated, +in the case of the latter, by the "gloomy view taken of +Christianity by that sect denominated Methodists." Mr. Galway, on +September 28th, visited Sangala, the highest rapid ("Narrative," +p. 328). In the Introduction, p. 80, we are wrongly told that he +went to Banza Ninga, whence, being taken ill on August 24th, he +was sent down stream. He, like his commander, had to sleep in the +open, almost without food, and he also succumbed to fever, +fatigue, and exhaustion. + +The cause of this prodigious mortality appears in the records of +the expedition. Officers and men were all raw, unseasoned, and +unacclimatized. Captain Tuckey, an able navigator, the author of +"Maritime Geography and Statistics," had served in the tropics; +his biographer, however, writes that a long imprisonment in +France and "residence in India had broken down his constitution, +and at the age of thirty (ob. æt. thirty-nine) his hair was grey +and his head nearly bald." The men perished, exactly like the +missionaries of old, by hard work, insufficient and innutritious +food, physical exhaustion, and by the doctor. At first "immediate +bleeding and gentle cathartics" are found to be panaceas for mild +fevers (p. 46): presently the surgeon makes a discovery as +follows: "With regard to the treatment I shall here only observe +that bleeding was particularly unsuccessful. Cathartics were of +the greatest utility, and calomel, so administered as speedily to +induce copious salivation, generally procured a remission of all +the violent symptoms." The phlebotomy was inherited from the +missioners, who own almost to have blinded themselves by it. When +one was "blooded" fifteen times and died, his amateur Sangrado +said, "It had been better to have bled him thirty times:" the +theory was that in so hot a climate all the European blood should +be replaced by African. One of the entries in Captain Tuckey's +diary is, "Awaking extremely unwell, I directly swallowed five +grains of calomel"--a man worn out by work and sleeping in the +open air! The "Congo" sloop was moored in a reach surrounded by +hills, instead of being anchored in mid stream where the current +of water creates a current of air; those left behind in her died +of palm wine, of visits from native women, and of exposure to the +sun by day and to the nightly dews. On the line of march the +unfortunate marines wore pigtails and cocked hats; stocks and +cross-belts; tight-fitting, short-waisted red coats, and knee- +breeches with boots or spatter-dashes--even the stout Lord Clyde +in his latest days used to recall the miseries of his march to +Margate, and declare that the horrid dress gave him more pain +than anything he afterwards endured in a life-time of marching. +None seemed capable of calculating what amount of fatigue and +privation the European system is able to support in the tropics. +And thus they perished, sometimes of violent bilious remittents, +more often of utter weariness and starvation. Peace to their +manes!--they did their best, and "angels can no more." They +played for high stakes, existence against fame-- + + "But the fair guerdon when we hope to find, + Comes the blind Fury with th' abhorred shears, + And slits the thin-spun life." + +"The Narrative of an Expedition to Explore the River Zaire" +(London, John Murray, 1818), published by permission of the Lords +Commissioners of the Admiralty, was necessarily a posthumous +work. The Introduction of eighty-two pages and the General +Observations (fifty-three pages) are by anonymous hands; follow +Captain Tuckey's Narrative, Professor Smith's Journal, and an +Appendix with seven items; 1, vocabularies of the Malemba and +Embomma (Fiote or Congo) languages; 2, 3, and 4, Zoology; 5, +Botany; 6, Geology; and 7, Hydrography. The most valuable is No. +5, an admirable paper entitled "Observations, Systematical and +Geographical, on Professor Christian Smith's Collection of Plants +from the Vicinity of the River Congo, by Robert Brown, F.R.S." +The "Geology," by Mr. Charles Konig, of the British Museum, is +based upon very scanty materials. The folio must not be severely +criticized; had the writers lived, they might have worked up +their unfinished logs into interesting and instructive matter. +But evidently they had not prepared themselves for the work; no +one knew the periods of rain at the equator; there was no +linguist to avoid mistakes in the vocabulary; moreover, Professor +Smith's notes, being kept in small and ill-formed Danish +characters, caused such misprints as "poppies" for papaws. Some +few of the mistakes should be noticed for the benefit of +students. The expedition appears to have confused São Salvador, +the capital, with St. Antonio placed seven days from the river +mouth (p. 277). It calls Santo Antão (Cape Verds) "San Antonio;" +the Ilha das Rôlas (of turtle doves) Rolle's Island; "morfil" +bristles of the elephant's tail, and manafili ivory, both being +from the Portuguese marfim; moudela for mondele or mondelle, a +white man; malava, "presents," for mulavu (s. s. as msámbá, not +maluvi, Douville), palm wine, which in the form mulavu m'putu +(Portuguese) applies to wine and spirits. We have also "Leimba" +for Lyámba or Dyámba (Cannabis saliva); "Macasso, a nut chewed by +great people only," for Makazo, the bean of the Kola (Sterculia); +"Hyphæa" and "Dom" for Palmyra Flabelliformis, whose "fruit hangs +down in bunched clusters;" "Raphia" for Raphia Vinifera, commonly +called the bamboo or wine palm, and "casa," a purgative legumen, +for nkasa, "sass," or poison wood, identified with the red-water +tree of Sierra Leone, the erythropheum of Professor Afzelius, of +the order Cæalpineae, which gave a name to the Brazil. + +The next important visit to the Congo River was paid by Captain +Owen's Expedition, when homeward bound in 1826. The "Leven" and +"Barracouta" surveyed the stream twenty-five miles from its mouth +during a week, beginning with January 1, just after the highest +flood. At thirteen miles out at sea the water was fresh and of a +dingy red; it fermented and remained in a highly putrescent state +for some days, tarnishing silver; kept for four months, it became +perfectly clear and colourless, without depositing any sediment. +This reminds us of the changing colours, green, red and milky +white, to which the Nile and all great African rivers that flood +periodically are subject.[FN#15] + +The next traveller that deserves notice is the unfortunate +Douville,[FN#16] through whose tissue of imposture runs a golden +thread of truth. As his first journey, occupying nearly two of +the three volumes, was probably confined to the Valley of the +Cuanza River, so his second, extending beyond the equator, and to +a meridian 25° east of Paris, becomes fable as he leaves the +course of the Loge Stream. Yet, although he begins by doubting +that the Coango and the Zaire are the same waters, he ends by +recognizing the fact, and his map justly lays down the Fleuve +Couango dit Zaire à son embouchure. Whether the tale of the +mulatto surveyor be fact or not is of little matter: the +adventurer had an evident inkling of the truth. + +A flood of side light is thrown upon the head waters of the Congo +River by Dr. Livingstone's first memorable journey (1852-56), +across Africa, and by the more dubious notices of his third +expedition The Introduction (p. xviii.) to Captain Tuckey's +narrative had concluded from the fact of the highest flood being +in March, and the lowest level about the end of August, that at +least one branch of the river must pass through some portion of +the northern hemisphere. The general observations affixed to +"Narrative" (p. 346), contain these words: "If the rise of the +Zaire had proceeded from rains to the southward of the Line, +swelling the tributary streams and pouring in mountain torrents +the waters into the main channel, the rise would have been sudden +and impetuous." Of course the writer had recourse to the "Lakes +of Wangara," in north latitude 12° to 15°: that solution of the +difficulty belonged inevitably to his day. Captain Tuckey (p. +178) learned, at Mavunda, that ten days of canoeing would take +him beyond all the rapids to a large sandy islet which makes two +channels, one to the north-west, the other to the north-east. In +the latter there is a fall above which canoes are procurable: +twenty days higher up the river issues, by many small streams, +from a great marsh or lake of mud.[FN#17] Again, a private letter +written from the "Yellala" (p. 343) declares that "the Zaire +would be found to issue from a lake or a chain of lakes +considerably to the north of the Line; and, so far from the low +state of the river in July and August militating against the +hypothesis, it gives additional weight, provided the river swell +in early September"--which it did. In his "Journal" (p. 224), we +find a memorandum, written as it were with a dying hand, +"Hypothesis confirmed. The water..." + +On February 24, 1854, Dr. Livingstone, after leaving what he +calls the "Dilolo Lake," found on an almost level plain, some +4,000 to 5,000 feet high and then flooded after rains, a great +water parting between the eastern and the western continental +shores. I have carefully considered the strictures upon this +subject by the author of "Dr. Livingstone's Errors" (p. 101), and +have come to the conclusion that the explorer was too experienced +to make the mistakes attributed to him by the cabinet geographer. +The translation "despair" for "bitterness" (of the fish?) and the +reference to Noah's Deluge may be little touches ad captandum; +but the Kibundo or Angolan tongue certainly has a dental though +it lacks a cerebral d. + +The easterly flow was here represented by the Leeba or upper +course of the "Leeambye," the "Diambege of Ladislaus Magyar, that +great northern and north-western course of the Zambeze across +which older geographers had thrown a dam of lofty mountains, +where the Mosi-wa-tunya cataract was afterwards discovered. The +opposite versant flowing to the north was the Kasai or Kasye +(Livingstone), the Casais of the Pombeiros, the Casati of +Douville, the Casasi and Casézi of M. Cooley (who derives it from +Casezi, a priest, the corrupted Arabic Kissis ); the Kassabi +(Casabi) of Beke, the Cassaby of Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 494), +and the Kassaby or Cassay of Valdez. Its head water is afterwards +called by the explorer Lomame and Loke, possibly for Lu-oke, +because it drains the highlands of Mossamba and the district of +Ji-oke, also called Ki-oke, Kiboke, and by the Portuguese +"Quiboque." The stream is described as being one hundred yards +broad, running through a deep green glen like the Clyde. The +people attested its length by asserting, in true African style, +"If you sail along it for months, you will turn without seeing +the end of it:" European geographers apparently will not +understand that this declaration shows only the ignorance of the +natives concerning everything a few miles beyond their homes. The +explorer (February 27,1854) places the ford in south latitude 11° +15' 47", and his map shows east longitude (G.), 21° 40' 30", +about 7° 30' (=450 direct geographical miles) from Novo Redondo +on the Western Coast. He dots its rise in the "Balobale country," +south latitude 12° to 13°, and east longitude 19° to 20°. +Pursuing his course, Dr. Livingstone (March 30) first sighted the +Quango (Coango) as it emerged from the dark jungles of Londa, a +giant Clyde, some 350 yards broad, flowing down an enormous +valley of denudation. He reached it on April, 1854, in south +latitude 9° 53', and east longitude (G.) 18° 37', about 300 +geographical linear miles from the Atlantic. Three days to the +west lies the easternmost station of Angola, Cassange: no +Portuguese lives, or rather then lived, beyond the Coango Valley. +The settlers informed him that eight days' or about 100 miles' +march south of this position, the sources are to be found in the +"Mosamba Range" of the Basongo country; this would place them in +about south latitude 12° to 13° and east longitude (G.) 18° to +19°. + +The heights are also called in Benguela Nanos, Nannos, or Nhanos +(highlands);[FN#18] and in our latest maps they are made to +discharge from their seaward face the Coango and Cuanza to the +west and north, the Kasai to the north-east and possibly to the +Congo, the Cunene south-westwards to the Atlantic, and southwards +the Kubango, whose destination is still doubtful. Dr. Charles +Beke ("Athenæum," No. 2206, February 5, 1870), judged from +various considerations that the "Kassábi" rising in the primeval +forests of Olo-vihenda, was the "great hydrophylacium of the +continent of Africa, the central point of division between the +waters flowing to the Mediterranean, to the Atlantic, and to the +Indian Ocean"--in fact, the head-water of the Nile. I believe, +however, that our subsequent information made my late friend +abandon this theory. + +On his return march to Linyanti, Dr. Livingstone, who was no +longer incapacitated by sickness and fatigue, perceived that all +the western feeders of the "Kasa" flow first from the western +side towards the centre of the continent, then gradually turn +with the main stream itself to the north, and "after the +confluence of the Kasai with the Quango, an immense body of water +collected from all these branches, finds its way out of the +country by means of the River Congo or Zaire, on the Western +Coast" (chap. xxii.). He adds: "There is but one opinion among +the Balonda respecting the Kasai and the Quango. They invariably +describe the Kasai as receiving the Quango, and beyond the +confluence assuming the name of Zairé or Zerézeré. And thus he +verifies the tradition of the Portuguese, who always speak of the +Casais and the Coango as "suppôsto Congo." It is regrettable that +Dr. Livingstone has not been more explicit upon the native names. +The Balonda could hardly have heard of the semi-European term +Zaire, which is utterly unknown even at the Yellalas. On the +other hand, it must be borne in mind that Maxwell was informed by +native travellers that the river 600 miles up country was still +called "Enzaddi," and perhaps the explorer merely intends Zairé +to explain Zerézeré. It is hardly necessary to notice Douville's +assertion (ii. 372). + +Meanwhile the late Ladislaus Magyar, who had previously informed +the Benguelan Government that the Casais was reported to fall +into the Indian Ocean at some unknown place, in 1851 followed +this great artery lower than any known traveller. He heard that, +beyond his furthest exploration point (about south latitude 6° +30,[FN#19] and east longitude, G. 22°), it pursues a north- +easterly direction and, widening several miles, it raises waves +which are dangerous to canoes. The waters continue to be sweet +and fall into a lake variously called Mouro or Moura (Moráve or +Marávi?), Uhanja or Uhenje (Nyanza?), which is suspected to be +the Urenge or Ulenge, of which Livingstone heard in about south +latitude 3°, and east longitude (G.) 26°. The Hungarian traveller +naturally identified it with the mythical Lake Nyassa which has +done such portentous mischief in a day now gone by. Ladislaus +Magyar also states:[FN#20] "The Congo rises, I have convinced +myself by reports, in the swamp named Inhan-ha occupying the high +plateau of Moluwa, in the lands of the Luba, uniting with the +many streams of this region; at a distance of about five days +from the source it becomes a deep though narrow river, which +flows to the westward, through a level country covered with dense +forests, whose frequent streams coming from the north (?) and +south are taken up "by the river; then it bends north-westward +under the name of Kuango." Here we find the drowned lands, the +"sponges" of Livingstone, who, however, placed the sources much +further to the south-east. + +Dr. Livingstone's third and last expedition, which began on March +24, 1866, and which ended (1873) with fatal fitness in the swamps +of the Bangweolo, suggests a new and more distant derivation for +the mighty Congo. After travelling from the Rovuma River to Lake +Nyassa, the great explorer in l867-8 came upon an "earthern +mound," west of Lake Bangweolo or Bemba, in about south latitude +11°; and here he places the sources of the Nile, where +geographers have agreed provisionally to place the sources of the +Congo. Already, in 1518, Fernandez de Enciso (Suma de +Geographia), the "theoretical discoverer" of Kilimanjaro, was +told by the Congoese that their river rises in high mountains, +from which another great stream flows in an opposite direction-- +but this might apply to more watersheds than one. The subject is +treated at considerable length in an article by Dr. E. +Behm,[FN#21] certain of whose remarks I shall notice at the end +of this chapter. + +The article proves hypsometrically that the Lualaba, in which the +explorer found the head waters of the Egyptian river, cannot feed +the Tanganyika nor the Lake Nzige (N'zíghe, Mwutan, Chowambe, or +Albert Nyanza Lake), nor even the Bahr el Ghazal, as was once +suspected. From the latter, indeed, it is barred by the water +parting of the Welle, the "Babura" of Jules Poncet (1860), in the +land of the Monbuttú; whose system the later explorer, Dr. +Schweinfurth, is disposed to connect with the Shari. +Hydrometrically considered, the Lualaba, which at Nyangwe, the +most northerly point explored by Dr. Livingstone (1870), rolls a +flood of 124,000 cubic feet per second in the dry season, cannot +be connected either with the Welle (5,100 cubic feet), nor with +the Bahr el Ghazal (3,042 to 6,500 cubic feet), nor with the Nile +below the mouth of the Bahr el Ghazal (11,330); nor with the +Shari (67,500); nor with the shallow Ogobe, through its main +forks the Rembo Okanda and the Rembo Nguye. + +But the Lualaba may issue through the Congo. The former is made +one of the four streams ferried over by those travelling from the +Cazembe to the Mwata ya Nvo, and Dr. de Lacarda[FN#22] records it +as the "Guarava," probably a dialectic form of Lualava. It is the +Luapula of the "Geographer of N'yassi," who, with his usual +felicity and boldness of conjecture (p. 38), bends it eastward, +and discharges it into his mythical Central Sea. + +Dr. Behm greatly under-estimates the Congo when he assigns to it +only 1,800,000 cubic feet per second. He makes the great artery +begin to rise in November instead of September and decrease in +April, without noticing the March-June freshets, reported by all +the natives to measure about one-third of the autumnal floods. +His elements are taken from Tuckey, who found off the "Diamond +Rock" a velocity of 3.50 knots an hour, and from Vidal's Chart, +showing 9,000 English feet or 1.50 nautical miles in a Thalweg +fifty fathoms deep. Thus he assumes only two nautical miles for +the current, or sixty inches per second, which must be +considerably increased, and an average depth of ten fathoms, +which again is too little. For 1,800,000 cubic feet of water per +second, which Tuckey made 2,000,000, we may safely read +2,500,000. + +Dr. Livingstone himself was haunted by the idea that he was +exploring the Upper Congo, not the Nile. From a Portuguese +subordinate he "learned that the Luapula went to Angola." He asks +with some truth, "Who would care to risk being put into a +cannibal pot, and be converted into blackman for anything less +than the grand old Nile?" And the late Sir Roderick I. Murchison, +whose geographical forecasts were sometimes remarkable, suspected +long ago[FN#23] that his "illustrious friend" would follow the +drainage of the country to the western coast. + +The "extraordinary quiet rise of the periodical flood," proved by +the first expedition, argues that the Congo "issues from the +gradual overflowing of a lake or a chain of lakes." The increment +in the lower bed, only eight to twelve feet where the Nile and +the Ganges rise thirty and the Binuwe fifty, would also suggest +that it is provided with many large reservoirs. The Introduction +to Tuckey's "Narrative" (p. xviii.) assumes that the highest +water is in March, but he entered the stream only on July 6, and +the expedition ended in mid-October. The best informants assured +me that from March till June there are heavy freshets. As in the +Ogobe, the flood begins in early September, somewhat preceding +that of the Lualaba, but, unlike the former stream, it attains +its highest in November and December, and it gradually subsides +from the end of June till August, about which time the water is +lowest. + +In the middle region of the Tanganyika, I found the rainy season +lasting from September to May. At Lake Liemba, the south-eastern +projection of the Tanganyika, Dr. Livingstone in 1867 saw no rain +from May 12 to September, and in Many-wema-land, west of the +central Tanganyika, about south latitude 5°, the wet season began +in November, and continued till July with intervals, marking the +passage of the belt of calms. But, for the Congo to rise in +September, we must assume the rains to have fallen in early +August, allowing ten or fifteen days for the streams to descend, +and the rest for the saturation of the land. This postulates a +supply from the Central African regions far north of the equator. +Even for the March-June freshets, we must also undoubtedly go +north of the Line, yet Herr H. Kiepert[FN#24] places the +northernmost influent of Congo some 150 miles south of the +equator. Under these limitations I agree with Dr. Behm:--"Taking +everything into consideration, in the present state of our +knowledge, there is the strongest probability that the Lualaba is +the head stream of the Congo, and the absolute certainty that it +has no connection with the Nile or any other river (system) of +the northern hemisphere." And again: "As surely as the sun stands +over the southern hemisphere in our winter and the northern in +our summer, bringing the rains and the swellings of the tropical +rivers when it is in the zenith with regard to them, so surely +can it be predicated, from a comparison of the rainy seasons and +times of rising, that the Lualaba belongs to no river of the +northern hemisphere; in the southern hemisphere Africa possesses +only one river, the Congo, which could take up the vast water +supply of the Lualaba." The Brazil shows the curious feature of +widely different and even opposite rainy seasons in the same +parallel of latitude; but this is not the place to discuss the +subject. + +Since these lines were written, I have to lament the collapse of +the Livingstone-Congo Expedition. In 1872 the great explorer's +friends, taking into consideration the prospect of his turning +westward, organized a "relief" from West as well as from East +Africa. Mr. J. Young, of Kelly, generously supplied the sinews of +travel, and Mr. Clements R. Markham, Secretary of the Royal +Geographical Society, lent important aid in preparing the +exploration. Navigating-Lieutenant W. J. Grandy, who had seen +service on the eastern coast of Africa, landed at S. Paulo de +Loanda in early 1873, and set out from Ambriz in March of that +year. The usual difficulties were met and overcome, when +Lieutenant Grandy was summarily recalled. The official +explanation ("Royal Geographical Society," December 14th, 1874), +is that the measure was in consequence of Livingstone's death. +The traveller himself says:--"Complying with instructions, we, +with many regrets at the idea of leaving our work unfinished when +all seemed so full of promise, commenced preparations for the +return, leaving good presents with the chiefs, in order to +procure a good reception for those who might come after us." An +Ex-President of the Royal Geographical Society had asserted, "The +ascent of the (Upper) Congo ought to be more productive of useful +geographical results than any other branch of African +exploration, as it will bring to the test of experiment the +navigability of the Congo above the Falls, and thus possibly open +out a means of introducing traffic by steam into the heart of the +continent at least two thousand miles from the mouth of the +river." + +With this explicit and stimulating assertion before us, we must +lament that England, once the worthy rival in exploration of +Spain, Portugal, and the Netherlands, is now too poor to support +a single exploration on the West African Coast, when Germany is +wealthy enough liberally to subsidize two. + + + + + + Note. + + A nous deux, Dr. E. Behm! + + + +My objections to your paper are the three following: 1. It +generally understates the volume of the Nzadi, by not allowing +sufficiently for the double equinoctial periods of high water, +March to June, as well as September to December; and by ignoring +the north-equatorial supply. 2. It arbitrarily determines the +question of the Tanganyika, separating it from the Nile-system +upon the insufficient strength of a gorilla, and of an oil-palm +which is specifically different from that of the Western Coast; +and 3. It wilfully misrepresents Dr. Livingstone in the matter of +the so-called Victoria Nyanza. + +My first objection has been amply discussed. I therefore proceed +to consider the second. As Mr. Alexander G. Findlay observed +("Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society," No. 3, vol. +xvii. of July 28, 1873):--"Up to the time of Stanley's arrival at +Ujiji, and his journey to the north of the lake, Livingstone was +fully impressed with the conviction that the Tanganyika is +nothing more than what he called a ‘lacustrine river' (329 miles +long by twenty of average breadth); flowing steadily to the north +and forming a portion of the Great Nile Basin. The letters +contained his reasons for forming that opinion, stating that he +had been for weeks and months on the shores of the lake watching +the flow of the water northwards" (at the rate of a knot per +hour). At times the current appeared to run southwards, but that +was under the influence of strong northerly winds. Also by Dr. +Livingstone's letters to Sir Thomas Maclear and Dr. Mann (" +Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society,"No. i of 1873, pp. +69-70), it is evident that the explorer believed only in the lake +outlet north of Ujiji. Again, Mr. Findlay, after attentively +considering the unsatisfactory visit of Dr. Livingstone and Mr. +Stanley to the Rusizi River in November and December, 1871, holds +it to be a mere marsh-drain, which when the south winds prevail, +would possibly flow in the opposite direction; and he still +believes that Captain Speke and I, when at Uvira, were within +five or six miles of the head. + +Since Dr. Livingstone's visit we have heard more upon this +disputed subject. A native of Karagwah assured my friend Sir +Samuel Baker--who, despite all prepossessions, candidly accepted +the statement--that it is possible and feasible to canoe from +Chibero,on the so-called Albert Nyanza, past Uvira, where the +stream narrows and where a pilot is required, to the Arab dépôt, +Ujiji. He described the northern portion of the Tanganyika as +varying much in breadth, immensely wide beyond Vacovia, and again +contracting at Uvira. His report was confirmed by a Msawahíli, +sent by King Mtesa, with whom he had lived many years, to +communicate with Baker Pasha at Fatiko; this man knew both Uvira +and Ujiji, which he called "Uyiyi." Nothing can be more +substantial than this double testimony, which wears all the +semblance of truth. + +On the other hand, Lieut. Cameron, whose admirable work has, so +to speak, re-constructed the Tanganyika Lake, discovered, on the +3rd of May, 18-74, the Lukuga River, which he supposes to form +the outlet. It lies 25 direct miles to the south of the Kasenge +Archipelago, numbering seventeen isles, visited by Captain Speke +in March, 1857. Dr. Livingstone touched here on July 13, 1869, +and heard nothing of the outlet; he describes a current sweeping +round Kasenge to south-east or southwards according to the wind, +and carrying trees at the rate of a knot an hour. But Mr. Stanley +(pp. 400 et passim) agrees with Dr. Krapf, who made a large river +issue from "the lake" westwards, and who proposed, by following +its course, to reach the Atlantic. The "discoverer of +Livingstone" evidently inclines to believe that the Tanganyika +drains through the caverns of Kabogo near Uguhha, and he records +the information of native travellers that "Kabogo is a great +mountain on the other side of the Tanganyika, full of deep holes, +into which the water rolls; "moreover, that at the distance of +over a hundred miles he himself heard the" sound of the +thundering surf which is said to roll into the caves of +Kabogo."In his map he ‘cutely avoids inserting anything beyond +"Kabogo Mountains, 6,000 to 7,000 feet high." + +The gallant young naval lieutenant's exploration of the Lukuga +has not yet reached us in a satisfactory form. He found the +current sluggishly flowing at the rate of 1.2 knots per hour; he +followed it for four or five miles, and he was stopped by +floating grass and enormous rushes (papyri?). A friendly chief +told him that the Lukuga feeds the Lualaba which, beyond Nyangwe +(Livingstone's furthest point, in about south latitude 4°) takes +the name of Ugarowwa. An Arab had descended this stream fifty- +five marches, and reached a place where there were ships and +white merchants who traded largely in palm-oil and ivory, both +rare on the Congo River. And, unfortunately, "the name (River) +Congo was also mentioned," a term utterly unknown except to the +few Portuguese-speaking natives. + +At present, therefore, we must reserve judgment, and the only +conclusion to which the unprofessional reader would come is that +the weight of authority is in favour of a double issue for the +Tanganyika, north and west. + +The wilful misrepresentation is couched in these words: "The +reports obtained by Livingstone are if anything favourable to the +unity of the Victoria Nyanza (Ukerewe, Ukara,) because along with +it he names only such lakes as were already known to have a +separate existence from it." As several were recognized, ergo it +is one! Dr. Livingstone heard from independent sources that the +so-called Victoria Nyanza is a lake region, not a lake; his +account of the Okara (Ukara), and the three or four waters run +into a single huge sheet, is substantially the same as that +which, after a study of the Rev. Mr. Wakefield's Reports I +offered to the Royal Geographical Society, and which I +subsequently published in "Zanzibar City, Island, and Coast." +You, Dr. Behm, are apparently satisfied with a lake drained by an +inverted delta of half-a-dozen issues--I am not. Nor can I agree +with you that "whether the Victoria Nyanza is one lake or several +is a point of detail of less importance," when it has disfigured +the best maps of Africa for nearly a score of years. The last +intelligence concerning the "unity" of the lake is from Colonel +C. C. Long, a staff-officer in the service of His Highness the +Khedive, who was sent by Colonel Gordon on a friendly mission to +King Mtesa of Uganda. With permission to descend "Murchison +Creek," and to view "Lake Victoria Nyanza," Colonel Long, after a +march of three hours, took boat. He sounded the waters of the +lake, and found a depth of from 25 to 35 feet; in clear weather +the opposite shore was visible, appearing "to an unnautical eye" +from 12 to 15 miles distant; nor could this estimate be greatly +wrong. After much negotiation and opposition he obtained leave to +return to Egyptian territory by water, and on the way, in north +latitude 1° 30', he discovered a second lake or "large basin," at +least 20 to 25 miles wide. The geography is somewhat hazy, but +the assertions are not to be mistaken. + +Finally, I read with regret such statements as the following, +made by so well-known a geographer as yourself: "Speke's views +have been splendidly confirmed; the attacks of his opponents, +especially of Burton, who was most inimically inclined to him, +collapse into nothing." This unwarrantable style of assertion +might be expected from the "Mittheilungen," but it is not +honourable to a man of science. There are, you well know, three +main points of difference between the late Captain Speke and +myself. The first is the horse-shoe of mountains blocking up the +northern end of the Tanganyika; this, after a dozen years, I +succeeded in abolishing. The second is the existence of the +Victoria Nyanza, which I assert to be a lake region, not a lake; +it is far from being a "point of detail," and I hope presently to +see it follow the way of the horse-shoe. Thirdly is the drainage +of the Tanganyika, which Captain Speke threw southward to the +Zambeze, a theory now universally abandoned. This may be your +view of "splendid confirmation"--I venture to think that it will +not be accepted by the geographical world. + + + + + + Chapter XI. + + Life at Banza Nokki. + + + +I was now duly established with my books and instruments at +Nkaye, and the inevitable delay was employed in studying the +country and the people, and in making a botanical collection. But +the season was wholly unpropitious. A naval officer, who was +considered an authority upon the Coast, had advised me to travel +in September, when a journey should never begin later than May. +The vegetation was feeling the effect of the Cacimbo; most of the +perennials were in seed, and the annuals were nearly dried up. +The pictorial effects were those of + + "Autumn laying here and there + A fiery finger on the leaves." + +Yet, with Factotum Selim's assistance, I managed to collect some +490 specimens within the fortnight. We had not the good fortune +of the late Dr. Welwitsch (Welwitschia mirabilis), but there is +still a copious treasure left for those who visit the Congo River +in the right season. + +I was delighted with the country, a counterpart of the Usumbara +Hills in Eastern Africa, disposed upon nearly the same parallel. +The Cacimbo season corresponded with the Harmattan north of the +Line; still, grey mornings, and covered, rainless noons, so +distasteful to the Expedition, which complained that, from four +to five days together, it could not obtain an altitude. The +curious contrast in a region of evergreens was not wanting, the +varied tintage of winter on one tree, and upon another the +brightest hues of budding spring. The fair land of grass and +flowers "rough but beautiful," of shrubbery-path, and dense +mottes or copse islets, with clear fountains bubbling from the +rocks, adorned by noble glimpses of the lake-like river, and of a +blue horizon, which suggested the ocean--ever one of the most +attractive points in an African landscape,--was easily invested +by the eye of fancy with gold and emerald and steely azure from +above, whilst the blue masses of bare mountain, thrown against a +cloudless sky, towered over the black-green sea of vegetation at +their base, like icebergs rising from the bosom of the Atlantic. + +As in the Brazilian Rio de São Francisco, the few miles between +the mouth and the hill-region cause a radical change of climate. +Here the suns are never too hot, nor are the moons too cold; the +nights fall soft and misty, the mornings bring the blessing of +freshness; and I was never weary of enjoying the effects of dying +and reviving day. The most delicate sharpness and purity of +outline took the place of meridian reek and blur; trees, rocks, +and chalets were picked out with an utter disregard to the +perspective of distance, and the lowest sounds were distinctly +heard in the hard, clear atmosphere. The damp and fetid +vegetation of the Coast wholly disappeared. By the benefit of +purest air and water, with long walks and abundant palm wine from +the trees hung with calabashes, the traces of "Nanny Po" soon +vanished; appetite and sleep returned, nightly cramps were things +unknown, and a healthy glow overspread the clammy, corpse-like +skin. When the Lower Congo shall become the emporium of lawful +trade, the white face will find a sanatorium in these portals of +the Sierra del Crystal,--the vine will flourish, the soil will +produce the cereals as well as the fruits and vegetables of +Europe, and this region will become one of the "Paradises of +Africa." + +The banzas of Congo-land show the constitution of native society, +which, as in Syria, and indeed in most barbarous and semi- +barbarous places, is drawn together less by reciprocal wants than +by the ties of blood. Here families cannot disperse, and thus +each hamlet is a single house, with its patriarch for president +and judge. When the population outgrows certain limits, instead +of being confounded with its neighbours, it adds a settlement +upon neighbouring ground, and removal is the work of a single +day. The towns are merely big villages, whose streets are +labyrinths of narrow pathways, often grass-grown, because each +man builds in his own way. Some translate the word "Banza" by +city, unaware that Central African people do not build cities. +Professor Smith rightly explains it "a village, which with them +means a paterfamilias, and his private dependants." So the +maligned Douville (i. 159)--"On donne le nom de banza à la ville +ou réside le chef d'une peuplade ou nation nègre. On l'attribue +aussi à l'enceinte que le chef ou souverain habite avec les +femmes et sa cour. Dans ce dernier sens le mot banza veut dire +palais du chef." + +Our situation is charming, high enough to be wholesome, yet in a +sheltered valley, an amphitheatre opening to the south-east or +rainy quarter; the glorious trees, here scattered, there gathered +in clumps and impenetrable bosquets, show the exuberant fertility +of the soil. Behind and above the village rises a dwarf plateau, +rich with plantains and manioc. After the deserted state of the +river banks,--the effect of kidnapping,--we are surprised to find +so populous a region. Within cannon-shot, there are not less than +twelve villages, with a total, perhaps, of 2,400 souls. + +Banza Nkaye, as usual uninclosed, contains some forty +habitations, which may lodge two hundred head. The tenements are +built upon platforms cut out of the hill slopes; and the make +proves that, even during the rains, there is little to complain +of climate. Ten of these huts belong to royalty, which lives upon +the lowest plane; and each wife has her own abode, whilst the +"senzallas" of the slaves cluster outside. The foundation is +slightly raised, to prevent flooding. The superstructure strikes +most travellers as having somewhat the look of a châlet, although +Proyart compares it with a large basket turned upside down. Two +strong uprights, firmly planted, support on their forked ends a +long strut-beam, tightly secured; the eaves are broad to throw +off the rain, and the neat thatch of grass, laid with points +upwards in regular courses, and kept in site by bamboo strips, is +renewed before the stormy season. The roof and walls are composed +of six screens; they are made upon the ground, often occupying +months, and they can be put together in a few minutes. The +material, which an old traveller says is of "leaves interwoven +not contemptibly with one another," is a grass growing everywhere +on the hills, plaited and attached to strips of cane or bamboo- +palm (Raphia vinifera); the gable "walls" are often a cheque- +pattern, produced by twining "tie-tie," "monkey rope," or +creepers, stained black, round the dull-yellow groundwork; and +one end is pierced for a doorway, that must not front the winds +and rains. It is a small square hole, keeping the interior dark +and cool; and the defence is a screen of cane-work, fastened with +a rude wooden latch. The flooring is hard, tamped clay, in the +centre of which the fire is laid; the cooking, however, is +confined to the broad eaves, or to the compound which, surrounded +with neat walls, backs the house. The interior is divided into +the usual "but" and "ben." The latter communicates with the +former by a passage, masked with a reed screen; it is the +sleeping-place and the store-room; and there is generally a +second wicket for timely escape. The only furniture consists of +mats, calabashes, and a standing bedstead of rude construction, +or a bamboo cot like those built at Lagos,--in fact, the four +bare walls suggest penury. But in the "small countries," as the +"landward towns" are called, where the raid and the foray are not +feared, the householder entrusts to some faithful slave large +stores of cloth and rum, of arms and gunpowder. + +The abodes suggest those of our semi-barbarous ancestors, as +described by Holingshed, where earth mixed with lime formed the +floor; where the fire was laid to the wall; where the smoke, +which, besides hardening timber, was "expected to keep the good +man and his family from quake and fever, curled from the door; +and where the bed was a straw pallet, with a log of wood for a +pillow. But the Congoese is better lodged than we were before the +days of Queen Elizabeth; what are luxuries in the north, broad +beds and deep arm-chairs, would here be far less comfortable than +the mats, which serve for all purposes. I soon civilized my hut +with a divan, the Hindostani chabutarah, the Spanish estrada, the +"mud bank" or "bunting" of Sierra Leone, a cool earth-bench +running round the room, which then wanted only a glass window. +But no domestic splendour was required; life in the open air is +the life for the tropics: even in England a greater proportion of +it would do away with much neuralgia and similar complaints. And, +if the establishment be simple, it is also neat and clean: we +never suffered from the cimex and pulex of which Captain Tuckey +complains so bitterly, and the fourmis voyageuses (drivers), +mosquitoes, scorpions, and centipedes were unknown to us. + +The people much resemble those of the Gaboon. The figure is well +formed, except the bosom, whose shape prolonged lactation, +probably upon the principle called Malthusian, soon destroys; +hence the first child is said to "make the breasts fall." The +face is somewhat broad and flat, the jowl wide, deep, and strong, +and the cerebellum is highly developed as in the Slav. The eye is +well opened, with thick and curly lashes, but the tunica +conjunctiva is rarely of a pure white; the large teeth are of +good shape and colour. Extensive tattoos appear on breasts, +backs, and shoulders; the wearers are generally slaves, also +known by scantier clothing, by darker skins, and by a wilder +expression of countenance. During their "country nursing," the +children run about wholly nude, except the coating of red wood +applied by the mothers, or the dust gathered from the ground. I +could not hear of the weaning custom mentioned by Merolla, the +father lifting the child by the arm, and holding him for a time +hanging in the air, "falsely believing that by those means he +will become more strong and robust." Whilst the men affect caps, +the women go bare-headed, either shaving the whole scalp, or +leaving a calotte of curly hair on the poll; it resembles the +Shúshah of Western Arabia and East Africa, but it is carried to +the fore like a toucan's crest. Some, by way of coquetterie, +trace upon the scalp a complicated network, showing the finest +and narrowest lines of black wool and pale skin: so the old +traveller tells us "the heads of those who aspire to glory in +apparel resemble a parterre, you see alleys and figures traced on +them with a great deal of ingenuity." The bosom, elaborately +bound downwards, is covered with a square bit of stuff, or a +calico pagne--most ungraceful of raiment-wrapped under the arms, +and extending to the knees: + + "In longitude'tis sorely scanty, + But ‘tis their best, and they are vaunty." + +The poor and the slaves content themselves with grass cloth. The +ornaments are brass earrings, beads and imitation coral; heavy +bangles and manillas of brass and copper, zinc and iron, loading +the ankles, and giving a dainty elephantine gait; the weight also +produces stout mollets, which are set off by bead-garters below +the knees. The leg, as amongst hill people generally, is finely +developed, especially amongst the lower orders: the "lady's" +being often lank and spindled, as in Paris and Naples, where the +carriage shrinks the muscles as bandages cramp Chinese feet. + +In these hamlets women are far more numerous than men. Marriage +being expensive amongst the "Mfumo" or gentry, the houses are +stocked with Hagars, and the children inherit their father's rank +as Mwana Mfumos, opposed to Mwanangambe, labouring people, or +Wantu, slaves. + +The missionaries found a regular system of "hand-fasting." Their +neophytes did not approve of marriage in facie ecclesiæ, "for +they must first be satisfied whether their wife will have +children; whether she will be diligent in her daily labour, and, +lastly, whether she will prove obedient, before they will marry +her. If they find her faulty in any of these points, they +immediately send her back again to her parents." The woman, not +being looked upon the worse for being returned into stores, soon +afterwards underwent another trial, perhaps with success. +Converts were fined nine crowns for such irregularities. "But, +oh!" exclaims a good father, "what pains do we take to bring them +to marry the lover, and how many ridiculous arguments and reasons +do they bring to excuse themselves from this duty and restraint." +He tells us how he refused absolution to a dying woman, unless +she compelled her daughter to marry a man with whom she was +"living upon trial." The mother answered wisely enough, "Father, +I will never give my daughter cause to curse me after I am dead, +by obliging her to wedlock where she does not fancy." Whereupon +the priest replied, "What! do you not stand more in awe of a +temporal than an eternal curse?" and, working upon the feelings +of the girl, who began to tremble and to weep, extorted from her +a promise to accept the "feigned husband." He adds, +"Notwithstanding this, some obstinate mothers have rather chosen +to die unconfessed, than to concern themselves with the marriage +of their daughters." Being obliged to attend Communion at Easter, +these temporary couples would part on the first day of Lent; +obtain absolution and, a week afterwards, either cohabit once +more or find otherpartners. The "indiscreet method of courtship," +popularly known as "bundling," here existed, and was found by +Caillié amongst the southern Moors: "When everybody is at rest, +the man creeps into his intended's tent, and remains with her +till daybreak." + +An energetic attempt was made to abolish polygamy, which, instead +of diminishing population as some sciolists pretend, caused the +country to swarm like maritime China. Father Carli, who also +dilates upon the evil practice of the sexes living together on +trial, ca. didly owns that his main difficulty lay in "bringing +the multitude to keep to one wife, they being wholly averse to +that law." Yet old travellers declare that when the missionaries +succeeded, the people "lived so Christian-like and lovingly +together, that the wife would suffer herself to be cut to pieces +rather than deceive her husband." Merolla, indeed, enlarges on +the constancy of women, whether white or black, when lawfully +married to their mates; and praises them for living together in +all manner of love and amity. "Hence may be learned what a +propensity the women have to chastity in these parts, many of +whom meet together on the first day of Lent, and oblige +themselves, under pain of severe penance, to a strict continence +till Easter." In case of adultery the husband could divorce the +wife; he was generally satisfied by her begging his pardon, and +by taking a slave from the lover. Widowed "countesses," proved +guilty of "immorality," suffered death by fire or sword. On the +other hand, the "princess" had a right to choose her husband; +but, as in Persia, the day of his splendid wedding was the last +of his liberty. He became a prisoner and a slave; he was +surrounded by spies; he was preceded by guards out of doors, and +at the least "écart" his head was chopped off and his paramour +was sold. These ladies amply revenged the servitude of their sex- +- + + "Asperius nihil est humili cum surgit in altum." + +Rich women were allowed to support quasihusbands until they +became mothers; and the slaves of course lived together without +marriage. Since the days of the Expedition a change for the +better has come over the gentil sesso. The traveller is no longer +in the "dilemma of Frère Jean," and, except at the river-mouth +and at the adjacent villages, there is none of that officious +complaisance which characterizes every hamlet in the Gaboon +country. The men appear peculiarly jealous, and the women fearful +of the white face. Whenever we approached a feminine group, it +would start up and run away; if cooking ground-nuts, the boldest +would place a little heap upon the bottom of an upturned basket, +push it towards us and wave us off. The lowest orders will submit +to a kind of marriage for four fathoms of cloth; exactly double +the tariff paid in Tuckey's time (pp. 171-181); and this ratio +will apply to all other articles of living. Amongst themselves +nubile girls are not remarkably strict; but as matrons they are +rigid. The adulterer is now punished by a heavy fine, and, if he +cannot pay, his death, as on many parts of the Southern Coast, is +lawful to the husband. + +The life is regular, and society is simple and patriarchal, as +amongst the Iroquois and Mohawks, or in the Shetlands two +centuries ago. The only excitement, a fight or a slave hunt, is +now become very rare. Yet I can hardly lay down the "curriculum +vitae" as longer than fifty-five years, and there are few signs +of great age. Merolla declares the women to be longer-lived than +the men. Gidi Mavunga, who told me that the Congo Expedition +visited their Banza when his mother was a child, can hardly be +forty-five, as his eldest son shows, and yet he looks sixty. The +people rise at dawn and, stirring up the fire, light the +cachimbos or large clay pipes which are rarely out of their +mouths. Tobacco (nsunza) grows everywhere and, when rudely cured, +it is sold in ringlets or twisted leaves; it is never snuffed, +and the only chaw is the Mákázo or Kola nut which grows all over +these hills; of these I bought 200 for 100 coloured porcelain +beads, probably paying treble the usual price. No food is eaten +at dawn, a bad practice, which has extended to the Brazil and the +Argentine Republic; but if a dram be procurable it is taken "por +la manana." The slave-women, often escorted by one of the wives, +and accompanied by the small girls, who must learn to work whilst +their brothers are idling with their rattles, set out with water- +pots balanced on their Astrachan wool, or with baskets for grain +and firewood slung by a head-strap to the back The free-born +remain at home, bathing and anointing with palm-oil, which +renders the skin smooth and supple, but leaves a peculiar aroma; +they are mostly cross enough till they have thoroughly shaken off +sleep, and the morning generally begins with scolding the slaves +or a family wrangle. I have seen something of the kind in Europe. + +Visiting, chatting, and strolling from place to place, lead to +the substantial breakfast or first dinner between 9 and 10 A.M. +Meat rarely appears; river fish, fresh or sun-dried, is the usual +"kitchen," eaten with manioc, toasted maize, and peeled, roasted, +and scraped plantain: vegetables and palm-oil obtained by +squeezing the nut in the hands, are the staple dish, and beans +are looked upon rather as slaves' food. They have no rice and no +form of "daily bread:" I happened to take with me a few boxes of +"twice-baked," and this Mbolo was the object of every chiefs +ambition. "Coleworts" are noticed by Merolla as a missionary +importation; he tells us that they produce no seed; and are +propagated by planting the sprouts, which grow to a great height. +The greens, cabbages, spinach, and French beans, mentioned by +Tuckey, have been allowed to die out. Tea, coffee, sugar, and all +such exotics, are unappreciated, if not unknown; chillies, which +grow wild, enter into every dish, and the salt of native +manufacture, brown and earthy, is bought in little baskets. + +Between breakfast and midday there is a mighty drink. The palm- +wine, here called "Msámbá," and on the lower river "Manjewa," is +not brought in at dawn, or it would be better. The endogen in +general use is the elai's, which is considered to supply a better +and more delicate liquor than the raphia. The people do not fell +the tree like the Kru-men, but prefer the hoop of "supple-jack" +affected by the natives of Fernando Po and Camarones. A leaf +folded funnel-wise, and inserted as usual in the lowest part of +the frond before the fruit forms, conveys the juice into the +calabashes, often three, which hang below the crown; and the +daily produce may be ten quarts. On the first day of tapping, the +sap is too sweet; it is best during the following week and, when +it becomes tart, no more must be drawn or the tree will be +injured. It cannot be kept; acetous fermentation sets in at once, +and presently it coagulates and corrupts. At Banana and Boma it +is particularly good; at Porto da Lenha it is half water, but the +agents dare not complain, for the reason which prevents them +offering "spliced grog" to the prepotent negro. Europeans enjoy +the taste, but dislike the smell of palm-wine; those in whom it +causes flatulence should avoid it, but where it agrees it is a +pleasant stimulant, pectoral, refreshing, and clearing the primæ +vice. Mixed with wine or spirits, it becomes highly intoxicating. +The rude beers, called by Merolla Guallo and by Tuckey (p. 120) +Baamboo, the Oualo of Douville, and the Pombeof East Africa, +mentioned by almost every traveller, are not now found on the +lower river. + +About noon the slaves return from handling their trowel-shaped +iron hoes, and the "gentleman" takes a siesta proportioned to his +drink. The poorer classes sit at home weaving, spinning, or +threading beads, whilst the wives attend to household work, +prepare the meals, buy and sell, dig and delve. Europeans often +pity the sex thus "doomed to perform the most laborious +drudgery;" but it is a waste of sentiment. The women are more +accustomed to labour in all senses of the word, and the result is +that they equal their mates in strength and stature; they enjoy +robust health, and their children, born without difficulty, are +sturdy and vigorous. The same was the case amongst the primitive +tribes of Europe; Zamacola (Anthrop. Mem. ii. 38), assures us +that the Basque women were physically powerful as the men, with +whom they engaged in prize-fights. + +The master awakes about 3 P.M. and smokes, visits, plays with his +children, and dawdles away his time till the cool sunset, when a +second edition of the first meal is served up. If there be +neither dance nor festival, all then retire to their bens, light +the fire, and sit smoking tobacco or bhang, with frequent +interruptions of palm wine or rum, till joined by their partners. +Douville (ii. 113), says that the Pangué or chanvre, "croît +naturellement dans lepays" I believe the questions to be still +sub judice, whether the intoxicating cannabis be or be not +indigenous to Africa as well as to Asia; and whether smoking was +not known in the Old World, as it certainly was in the New, +before tobacco was introduced. The cannabis Indica was the +original anæsthetic known to the Arabs and to civilized Orientals +many centuries before the West invented ether and chloroform. + +Our landlord has two wives, but one is a mother and will not +rejoin him till her child can carry a calabash of water unaided. +To avoid exciting jealousy he lives in a hut apart, surrounded by +seven or eight slaves, almost all of them young girls. This +regular life is varied by a little extra exertion at seed-time +and harvest, by attending the various quitandas or markets of the +country side, and by an occasional trip to "town" (Boma). When +the bush is burning, all sally out with guns, clubs, and dogs, to +bring home "beef." And thus they dwell in the presence of their +brethren, thinking little of to-day, and literally following the +precept, "Take no thought for the morrow." As the old missioners +testify, they have happy memories, their tempers are mild, and +quarrels rarely lead to blows; they are covetous, but not +miserly; they share what they have, and they apply the term +"close-fist" to the European who gives "nuffin for nuffin." + +The most superstitious of men, they combine the two extremes of +belief and unbelief; they have the firmest conviction in their +own tenets, whilst those of others flow off their minds like +water from a greased surface. The Catholic missioners laboured +amongst them for nearly two hundred years; some of these +ecclesiastics were ignorant and bigoted as those whom we still +meet on the West African Coast, but not a few were earnest and +energetic, scrupulous and conscientious, able and learned as the +best of our modern day. All did not hurry over their superficial +tasks like the Neapolitan father Jerome da Montesarchio, who +baptized 100,000 souls; and others, who sprinkled children till +their arms were tired. Many lived for years in the country, +learning the language and identifying themselves with their +flocks. Yet the most they ever effected was to make their +acolytes resemble the Assyrians whom Shalmaneser transplanted to +Assyria, who "feared the Lord and served their graven images" (2 +Kings, xvii. 33-41). Their only traces are the word "Deus," +foully perverted like the Chinese "joss;" and an occasional +crucifix which is called cousa de branco--white man's thing. +Tuckey was justified in observing at Nokki that the crucifixes, +left by missioners, were strangely mixed with native fetishes, +and that the people seemed by no means improved by the muddle of +Christian and Pagan idolatry. + +The system is at once complicated and unsettled. There is, +apparently, the sensus numinis; the vague deity being known as +Nzambi or Njambi, which the missionaries translated into God, as +Nganna Zambi--Lord Zambi. Merolla uses Zambiabungù, and in the +vocabulary, Zabiambunco, for the "Spirit above" (Zambi-a-npungo): +Battel tells us that the King of Loango was called "Sambee and +Pango, which mean God." The Abbé Proyart terms the Supreme +"Zambi," and applies Zambi-a-n-pongou to a species of malady +brought on by perjury. He also notices the Manichæan idea of +Zambi-a-Nbi, or bad-God, drawing the fine distinction of European +belief in a deity supremely good, who permits evil without +participating in it. But the dualism of moral light and darkness, +noticed by all travellers,[FN#25] is a bonâ fide existence with +Africans, and the missionaries converted the Angolan "Cariapemba" +into the Aryo-Semitic Devil. + +Zambi is the Anyambia of the Gaboon country, a vox et præterea +nihil. Dr. Livingstone ("First Expedition," p. 641), finds the +word general amongst the Balonda, or people of Lunda: with the +"Cazembes" the word is "Pambi," or "Liza," and "O Muata Cazembe" +(p. 297) mentions the proverb, "Ao Pambi e ao Mambi (the King) +nada iguala." In the "Vocabulario da lingua Cafrial" we see (p. +469) that "Murungo" means God or thunder. It is the rudimental +idea of the great Zeus, which the Greeks worked out, the God of +Æther, the eternal, omnipotent, and omniscient, "who was, who is, +and who is to come," the Unknown and Unknowable, concerning whom +St. Paul quoted Aristæus on Mars' Hill. But the African brain +naturally confused it with a something gross and material: thus +Nzambi-a-Npungu is especially the lightning god. Cariambemba is, +properly, Kadi Mpemba or Ntangwa, the being that slays mankind: +Merolla describes it as an "abominable idol;" and the word is +also applied to the owl, here as in Dahome the object of +superstition. I could trace no sign of worship paid to the sun +(Tangwa or Muinyi), but there are multitudes of minor gods, +probably deified ghosts, haunting particular places. Thus, +"Simbi" presides over villages and the "Tadi Nzazhi," or +Lightning Rock, near Boma; whilst the Yellala is the abode of an +evil being which must be propitiated by offerings. As usual +amongst Fetish worshippers, the only trace of belief in a future +state is faith in revenants--returning men or ghosts. + +Each village has an idol under a little wall-less roof, +apparently an earthern pot of grease and feathers, called +Mavunga. This may be the Ovengwa of the "Camma people," a +"terrible catcher and eater of men, a vampire of the dead; +personal, whilst the Ibamba are indistinct; tall as a tree; +wandering through the woods, ever winking; whereas the Greek +immortals were known by their motionless eyelids. "Ngolo Wanga" +is a man-shaped figure of unpainted wood, kept in the hut. Every +house is stuck inside and outside with idols and fetishes, +interpreters of the Deity, each having its own jurisdiction over +lightning, wind, and rain; some act as scarecrows; others teach +magic, avert evils, preserve health and sight, protect cattle, +and command fish in the sea or river. They are in all manner of +shapes, strings of mucuna and poison-beans; carved images stuck +over with feathers and tassels; padlocks with a cowrie or a +mirror set in them; horns full of mysterious "medicine;" iron- +tipped poles; bones; birds' beaks and talons; skins of snakes and +leopards, and so forth. We shall meet them again upon our +travels. + +No man walks abroad without his protecting charms, Nkisi or +Nkizi, the Monda of the Gaboon, slung en baudrier, or hanging +from his shoulder. The portable fetish of our host is named "Báká +chyá Mázínga: Professor Smith (p. 323) makes "Mázengá" to be +"fetishes for the detection of theft." These magicæ vanitates are +prophylactics against every evil to which man's frailty is heir. +The missioners were careful not to let their Congo converts have +anything from their bodies, like hair or nail parings, for fear +lest it be turned to superstitious use; and a beard (the price of +conversion) was refused to the "King of Micocco." Like the idols, +these talismans avert ill luck, bachelorhood, childlessness, +poverty, and ill health; they are equally powerful against the +machinations of foes, natural or supernatural; against wild +beasts, the crocodile, the snake, and the leopard; and against +wounds of lead and steel. They can produce transformation; +destroy enemies; cause rain or drought, fine or foul weather; +raise and humble, enrich and impoverish countries; and, above all +things, they are sovereign to make man brave in battle. Shortly +before we entered Banza Nkaye a propitiation of the tutelary gods +took place: Coxswain Deane had fired an Enfield, and the report +throughout the settlement was that our guns would kill from the +river-bank. + +The Nganga of Congo-land, the Mganga of the Wasawahili and the +Uganga of the Gaboon, exactly corresponds with M. Michelet's +Sorcière of the Middle Ages, "physicienne," that is doctor for +the people and poisoner; we cannot, however, apply in Africa the +adage of Louis XIII.'s day, "To one wizard ten thousand witches." +In the "Muata Cazembe" (pp. 57, et passim) we read "O Ganga or O +Surjão;" the magician is there called "Muroi," which, like +"Fite," is also applied to magic. The Abbé Proyart opines of his +professional brother, "he is ignorant as the rest of the people, +but a greater rogue,"--a pregnant saying. Yet here "the man of +two worlds" is not l'homme de révolution, and he suffices for the +small "spiritual wants" of his flock. He has charge of the +"Kizila," the "Chigella" of Merolla and the "Quistilla" of James +Barbot--Anglicè putting things in fetish, which corresponds with +the Tahitian tapu or taboo. The African idea is, that he who +touches the article, for instance, gold on the eastern coast of +Guinea, will inevitably come to grief. When "fetish is taken +off," as by the seller of palm wine who tastes it in presence of +the buyer, the precaution is evidently against poison. Many of +these "Kizila" are self-imposed, for instance a water melon may +never enter Banza Nokki, and, though slaves may eat bananas upon +a journey, the master may not. Others refuse the flesh of a fowl +until it has been tasted by a woman. These rules are delivered to +the young, either by the fetishman or the parents, and, when +broken, they lead to death, doubtless often the consequence of +strong belief. The Nganga superintends, as grand inquisitor, the +witch-ordeal, by causing the accused to chew red-wood and other +drugs in this land ferax venenorum. Park was right: "By +witchcraft is meant pretended magic, affecting the lives and +healths of persons, in other words it is the administering of +poison." European "Narratives of Sorcery and Magic" exactly +explain the African idea, except in one point: there the witch +"only suffered from not being able to prove to Satan how much she +burned to suffer for his sake;" here she has no Satan. Both +European and African are the firmest believers in their own +powers; they often confess, although knowing that the confession +leads directly to torture and death, with all the diabolical +ingenuity of which either race was capable. In Tuckey's time a +bargain was concluded by breaking a leaf or a blade of grass, and +this rite it was "found necessary to perform with the seller of +every fowl:" apparently it is now obsolete. Finally, although the +Fetish man may be wrong, the fetish cannot err. If a contretemps +occur, a reason will surely be found; and, should the "doctor" +die, he has fallen a victim to a rival or an enemy more powerful +than himself. + +A striking institution of the Congo region is that of the +Jinkemba, which, curious to say, is unnoticed by Tuckey. It is +not, however, peculiar to the Congo; it is the "Semo" of the +Susus or Soosoos of the Windward Coast, and the "Purrah" of the +Sherbro-Balloms or Bulloms, rendered Anglicè by "free-masonry." +The novitiate there lasts for seven or eight years, and whilst +the boys live in the woods food is placed for them by their +relations: the initiation, indeed, appears to be especially +severe. Here all the free-born males are subjected to the wrongly +called "Mosaic rite." Merolla tells us that the wizards +circumcise children on the eighth day (like the Jews), not out of +regard for the law, but with some wicked end and purpose of their +own. At any time between the ages of five and fifteen (eight to +ten being generally preferred), boys are taken from their parents +(which must be an exceeding comfort to the latter), and for a +native year, which is half of ours, they must dwell in the Vivála +ya Ankimba, or Casa de Feitiço, like that which we passed before +reaching Banza Nokki. They are now instructed by the Nganga in +the practices of their intricate creed; they are taught the +mysteries under solemn oaths, and, in fine, they are prepared for +marriage. Upon the Congo they must eat no cooked food, living +wholly upon roots and edibles; but they are allowed to enter the +villages for provisions, and here they often appear armed with +matchets, bayonets, and wooden swords. Their faces and necks, +bodies and arms, are ghastly white with chalk or ashes; the hair +is left in its original jet, and the dingy lower limbs contrast +violently with the ghostlike absence of colour above. The dress +is a crinoline of palm-fronds, some fresh and green, others sere +and brown; a band of strong mid-rib like a yellow hoop passed +round the waist spreads out the petticoat like a farthingale, and +the ragged ends depend to the knees; sometimes it is worn under +the axillae, but in all cases the chalked arms must be outside. +The favourite attitude is that of the Rhodian Colossus, with the +elbows bent to the fore and the hands clasped behind the head. To +increase their prestige of terror, the Jinkomba abjure the use of +human language, and, meeting a stranger, ejaculate with all their +might, "Hár-rr-rr-rr-rr!" and "Jojolo! Jojolo!" words mystic and +meaningless. When walking in procession, they warn the profane +out of the way by striking one slip of wood upon another. They +are wilder in appearance than the Hindu Jogi or Sanyasi, who also +affects the use of ashes, but neglects that of the palm-thatch. +It is certainly enough to startle a man of impressible nerves-- +one, for instance, who cannot enter a room without a side-long +glance at an unexpected coffin--to see these hideous beings +starting with their savage cry from the depths of an African +forest. Evidently, also, such is the intention of the costume. + +Contrasting the Congoese with the Goanese, we obtain a measure of +difference between the African and the Asiatic. Both were +Portuguese colonies founded about the same time, and under very +similar circumstances; both were catechized and Christianized in +the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; both had governors and +palaces, bishops and cathedrals, educational establishments and a +large staff of missioners. But Asia was not so inimical, mentally +or bodily, to the European frame as Africa; the Goanese throve +after a fashion, the mixed breed became the staple population, +and thus it continues till this day. On the other hand the +Hamitic element so completely asserted its superiority over +insititious Japheth, that almost every trace has disappeared in a +couple of centuries. There lingers, it is true, amongst the +Congoese of the coast-regions a something derived from the olden +age, still distinguishing them from the wild people of the +interior, and at times they break out naturally in the tongue of +their conquerors. But it requires a practised eye to mark these +minutiae. + +The Congoese are passably brave amongst themselves; crafty and +confined in their views, they carry "knowledge of life" as far as +it is required, and their ceremonious intercourse is remarkable +and complicated. They have relapsed into the analphabetic state +of their ancestors; they are great at eloquence; and, though +without our poetical forms, they have a variety of songs upon all +subjects and they improvise panegyrics in honour of chiefs and +guests. Their dances have been copied in Europe. Without ever +inventing the modes of the Greeks, which are still preserved by +the Hindoos, they have an original music, dealing in harmony +rather than in tune, and there are motives, of course all in the +minor key, which might be utilized by advanced peoples; these +sons of nature would especially supply material for that +recitative which Verdi first made something better than a vehicle +for dialogue. Hence the old missioners are divided in opinion; +whilst some find the sound of the "little guitar," with strings +of palm-thread and played with the thumbs of both hands, "very +low, but not ungrateful," others speak of the "hellish harmony" +of their neophytes' bands. The instrument alluded to is the +nsambi or nchambi; four strings are attached to bent sticks +springing from the box; it is the wambi of the Shekyanis (Du +Chaillu, chap. xii), but the bridge, like that of our violin, +gives it an evident superiority, and great care and labour are +required in the maker. + +This form of the universal marimba is a sounding-board of light +wood, measuring eight inches by five; some eight to eleven iron +keys, flat strips of thin metal, pass over an upright bamboo +bridge, fixed by thongs to the body, and rest at the further end +upon a piece of skin which prevents "twanging." The tocador or +performer brings out soft and pleasing tones with the sides of +the thumbs and fingers. They have drums and the bell-like cymbals +called chingufu: M. Valdez (ii. 221 et passim), writes +"Clincufo," which he has taken from a misprint in Monteiro and +Gamitto. The chingufu of East Africa is a hollow box performed +upon with a drum-stick of caoutchouc. The pipes are wooden tubes +with sundry holes and a bridge below the mouth-piece; they are +played over edge like our flutes. The "hellish harmonies" mostly +result from an improvised band, one strumming the guitar, another +clapping the sticks, and the third beating the bell-shaped irons +that act as castanets. + +The language of the people on and near the Congo River is called +"Fiote," a term used by old travellers to denote a black man as +opposed to Mundele (white), and also applied to things, as +Bondefiote or black baft. James Barbot (p. 512) gives specimens +of some thirty-three words and the numerals in the "Angoy +language, spoken at Cabinde," which proves to be that of the +River. Of these many are erroneous: for instance, "nova," to +sleep (ku-núa); "sursu," a hen (nsusu): while "fina," scarlet; +"bayeta," baize; and "fumu," tobacco, are corrupted Portuguese. A +young lad, "muleche" (moleque), Father Merolla's "molecchas, a +general name among the negroes," for which Douville prefers +"moleke" (masc.) and "molecka" (fem.), is applied only to a +slave, and in this sense it has extended west of the Atlantic. In +the numerals, "wale" (2) should be "kwále," "quina" (4) "kúyá," +and "evona" (9) "iowá." We may remark the pentenary system of the +Windward Coast and the Gaboon negroes; e.g., 6 is "sambano" +("mose" and "tano" 1 + 5), and 7 is "sambwale" ("mose" and +"kwale") and so forth, whilst "kumi" (10), possibly derived from +neighbouring races, belongs to the decimal system. + +The first attempt at a regular vocabulary was made by Douville, +(vol. iii. p. 261): "Vocabidaire de la Langue Mogialoua, et des +deux dialectcs principaux Abunda (Angolan) et Congo" (Fiote); it +is also very incorrect. The best is that published in Appendix +No. I. to the Congo Expedition, under the name of "Embomma;" we +may quote the author's final remark: "This vocabulary I do not +consider to be free from mistakes which I cannot now find time to +discover. All the objects of the senses are, however, correct." +M. Parrot showed me a MS. left at Banana Point by a French +medical officer, but little could be said in its praise. Monteiro +and Gamitto (pp. 479-480) give seventeen "Conguez" words, and the +Congo numerals as opposed to the "Bundo." + +The Fiote is a member of the great South African family; some +missionaries argued, from its beauty and richness, that it had +formerly been written, but of this there is no proof. M. Malte- +Brun supposes the Congoese dialects to indicate "a meditative +genius foreign to the habitual condition of these people," +ignoring the fact that the most complicated and laborious tongues +are those of barbarous nations, whilst modern civilization in +variably labours to simplify. It is copious; every place, tree, +shrub, or plant used by the people has its proper name; it is +harmonious and pleasing, abounding in vowels and liquids, +destitute of gutturals, and sparing in aspirates and other harsh +consonants. At the same time, like the rest of the family, it is +clumsy and unwieldy, whilst immense prolixity and frequent +repetition must develope the finer shades of meaning. Its +peculiarity is a greater resemblance to the Zanzibarian +Kisawahili than any tongue known to me on the Western Coast: +often a question asked by the guide, as "Njia hápá?" (Is this the +road?) and "Jina lako nani?" (What's your name?) was perfectly +intelligible to me.The latter is a fair specimen of the peculiar +euphony which I have noticed in "Zanzibar" (vol. i. chap. x.). We +should expect "Jina jako," whereas this would offend the native +ear. It requires a scholar-like knowledge of the tongue to apply +the curious process correctly, and the self-sufficient critic +should beware how he attempts to correct quotations from the +native languages. + +I need hardly say that the speakers are foul-mouthed as the +Anglo-African of S'a Leone and the "English" Coast; they borrow +the vilest words from foreign tongues; a spade is called a spade +with a witness, and feminine relatives are ever the subject of +abuse; a practice which, beginning in Europe with the Slav race, +extends more or less throughout the Old World. I specify the Old +World, because the so-called "Indians" of North and South America +apparently ignore the habit except where they have learned it +from Southern Europe. Finally, cursing takes the place of +swearing, the latter being confined, I believe, to the +Scandinavians, the Teutons, and their allied races. + +Nothing can be more unpleasant than the Portuguese spoken by the +Congoman. He transposes the letters lacking the proper sounds in +his own tongue; for instance, "sinholo" (sinyolo) is "senhor;" +"munyele" or "minyele" is "mulher;" "O luo" stands in lieu of "O +rio," (the river); "rua" of "lua" (luna), and so forth. For to- +morrow you must use "cedo" as "manhaa" would not be understood, +and the prolixity of the native language is transferred to the +foreign idiom. For instance, if you ask, "What do you call this +thing?" the paraphrase to be intelligible would be, "The white +man calls this thing so-and-so; what does the Fiote call this +thing?" sixteen words for six. I have elsewhere remarked how +Englishmen make themselves unintelligible by transferring to +Hindostani and other Asiatic tongues the conciseness of their own +idiom, in which as much is understood as is expressed. We can +well understand the outraged feelings with which poor Father +Cannecattim heard his sermons travestied by the Abundo negroes do +Paiz or linguists, the effect of which was to make him compose +his laborious dictionary in Angolan, Latin, and Portuguese. His +wrath in reflecting upon "estos homems ou estos brutos" drives +the ecclesiastic to imitate the ill-conditioned layman who +habitually addresses his slave as "O bruto! O burro! O bicho! O +diabo!" when he does not apply the more injurious native terms as +"Konongwako" and "Vendengwandi." It is only fair to confess that +no race is harsher in its language and manners to its "black +brethren," than the liberated Africans of the English +settlements. + +At Banza Nokki I saw the first specimen of a Mundongo slave girl. +The tribe is confounded with the Mandingo (Mandenga) Moslems by +the author of the "Introduction to Tuckey's Journey" (p. Ixxxi.); +by Tuckey (p. 141), who also calls them Mandonzo (p. 135), and by +Prof. Smith (p. 315); but not by the accurate Marsden (p. 389). +She described her tribe as living inland to the east and north- +east of the Congo peoples, distant two moons--a detail, of +course, not to be depended upon. I afterwards met many of these +"captives," who declared that they had been sold after defeats: a +fine, tall race, one is equal to two Congo men, and the boldness +of demeanour in both sexes distinguishes them from other +serviles. Apparently under this name there are several tribes +inhabiting lands of various elevations; some are coloured café au +lait, as if born in a high and healthy region; others are almost +jet black with the hair frightfully "wispy," like a mop. +Generally the head is bullet-shaped, the face round, the features +negroid, not negro, and the hands and feet large but not ill- +shaped. Some again have the Hausa mark, thread-like perpendicular +cuts from the zygomatic arches running parallel with the chin; in +other cases the stigmata are broad beauty-slashes drawn +transversely across the cheeks to the jawbone, and forming with +the vertical axis an angle of 45°. All are exceedingly fond of +meat, and, like the Kru-men, will devour it semi-putrified. The +Congoese declare them to be "papagentes" (cannibals), a term +generally applied by the more advanced to the bushmen living +beyond their frontier, and useful to deter travellers and +runaways. They themselves declare that they eat the slain only +after a battle--the sentimental form of anthropophagy. The slave- +girl produced on this occasion was told to sing; after receiving +some beads, without which she would not open her lips, we were +treated to a "criard" performance which reminded me of the +"heavenly muse" in the Lake Regions of Central Africa. + +The neighbours of the Mundonoros are the Mubangos, the Muyanji +(Muyanzi?), and the Mijolo, by some called Mijere. Possibly +Tuckey alludes to the Mijolos when he tells us (p. 141), that the +"Mandingo" slave whom he bought on the Upper River, called his +country "M'intolo." I have seen specimens of the three, who are +so similar in appearance that a stranger distinguishes them only +by the tattoo. No. 1 gashes a line from the root of the hair to +the commissure of the nose: No. 2 has a patch of cuts, five in +length and three in depth, extending from the bend of the eye- +brow across the zygomata to the ear, and No. 3 wears cuts across +the forehead. I was shown a sword belonging to the Mijolo: all +declared that it is of native make; yet it irresistibly suggested +the old two-handed weapon of Europe, preserved by the Bedawin and +the Eastern Arabs, who now mostly derive it from Sollingen. The +long, straight, flexible, and double-edged blade is neatly +mounted by the tang in a handle with a pommel, or terminating +knob, of ivory; others prefer wood. The guard is very peculiar, a +thin bar of iron springing from the junction of blade and grip, +forming an open oval below, and prolonged upwards and downwards +in two branches parallel with the handle, and protecting the +hand. They dance, brandishing this weapon, according to the +slaves, in the presence of their princes. + +I inquired vainly about the Anzicos, Anzichi, Anzigui, Anzigi, or +Anziki, whose king, Makoko, the ruler of thirteen kingdoms, was +placed by Dapper north-west of Monemugi (Unyamwezi), and whom +Pigafetta (p. 79) located close to the Congo, and near his +northern Lake. "It is true that there are two lakes, not, +however, lying east and west (Ptolemy's system), but north and +south of each other, and about 400 miles asunder. The first is in +south latitude 12°. The Nile, issuing from it, does not, +according to Odoardo (Duarte Lopez), sink in the earth nor +conceal itself, but, after flowing northwards, it enters the +second lake, which is 220 miles in extent, and is called by the +natives a sea." If the Tanganyika shall be found to connect with +the Luta Nzige or Mwutan Lake, this passage will be found +wonderfully truthful. The Tanganyika's southern versant is now +placed in south latitude 8° 46' 54", or in round numbers 9°, and +the other figures are nearly as correct. James Barbot causes +these Anzikos to wander "almost through all Africa," from Nubia +to the Congo, like negro Bedawin or Scythians; the common food +was man's flesh fattened for the market and eaten by the +relatives, even of those who died diseased. Their "capital," +Monsol, was built by D'Anville, close to the equator in the very +centre of Africa (east longitude Greenwich, 26° 20') hard by +Douville's "Yanvo;" and the "Opener of Inner Africa in 1852" (pp. +3, 4, 69), with equal correctness, caused them to "occupy the +hills opposite to Sundi, and extending downwards to Emboma below +the Falls." + +Mr. Cooley ("Ocean Highways," June, 1873), now explains the word +as A-nzi-co, "people not of the country," barbarians, bushmen. +This kind of information, derived from a superficial knowledge of +an Angolan vocabulary, is peculiarly valueless. I doubt that a +negative can thus be suffixed to a genitive. The name may simply +have been A-nziko (man) of the back-settlement. In 1832, Mr. +Cooley writes: "the nation of the Anziko (or Ngeco):" in 1845, +"the Anziki, north of Congo:" in 1852, "the Micoco or king of the +Anziko"--und so weiter. What can we make of this geographical +Proteus? The first Congo Expedition who covered all the ground +where the Creator of the Great Central Sea places the Anzikos, +never heard of them--nor will the second. + +Not being then so well convinced of the nonexistence of the +Giaghi, Giagas, Gagas, or Jagas as a nation, I inquired as vainly +for those terrible cannibals who had gone the way of all the +Anzikos. According to Lopez, Battel, Merolla, and others, they +"consider human flesh as the most delicious food, and goblets of +warm blood as the most exquisite beverage." This act on the part +of savage warriors might have been a show of mere bravado. But I +cannot agree with the editor of Tuckey's "Narrative," "From the +character and disposition of the native African, it may fairly be +doubted whether, throughout the whole of this great continent, a +negro cannibal has any existence." The year 1816 was the Augustan +age of outrageous negrophilism and equally extreme anti- +Napoleonism. "If a French general" (Introduction, p. i), +"brutally seized the person and papers of a British naval +officer, on his return from a voyage of discovery," who, I would +ask, plundered and destroyed the fine botanical collection made +at risk of health and life, during fifteen months of hard labour, +by the learned Palisot de Beauvois, author of the "Flore +d'Oware?" The "Reviewer" of Douville (p. 177) as sensibly +declares that cannibalism "has hitherto continually retired +before the investigation of sober-minded, enlightened men," when, +after a century or two of intercourse with white traders, it +still flourishes on the Bonny and New Calabar Rivers. + +We are glad to be rid of the Jagas, a subject which has a small +literature of its own; the savage race appeared everywhere like a +"deus ex machina," and it became to Intertropical Africa what the +"Lost Tribes" were and even now are in some cases, to Asia and +not rarely to Europe. Even the sensible Mr. Wilson ("West +Africa," p. 238) has "no doubt of the Jagas being the same people +with the more modernly discovered Pangwes" (Fans); and this is +duly copied by M. du Chaillu (chap. viii.). M. Valdez (ii. 150) +more sensibly records that the first Jaga established in +Portuguese territory was called Colaxingo (Kolashingo), and that +his descendants were named "Jagas," like the Egyptian Pharaohs, +the Roman Ceesars, the Austrian Kaisers, and the Russian Czars: +he also reminds us (p. 150) that the chief of the Bangalas +inhabiting Cassange (= Kasanjí) was the Jaga or ruler par +excellence. + +Early on the morning of September 11, I was aroused by a "bob" in +the open before us. We started up, fearing that some death by +accident had taken place: the occasion proved, on the contrary, +to be one of ushering into life. The women were assembled in a +ring round the mother, and each howled with all the might of her +lungs, either to keep off some evil spirit or to drown the +sufferer's cries. In some parts of Africa, the Gold Coast for +instance, it is considered infamous for a woman thus to betray +her pain, but here we are amongst a softer race. + + + + + + Chapter XII. + + Preparations for the March. + + + +Gidi Mavunga, finding me in his power, began, like a thoroughbred +African, to raise obstacles. We must pass through the lands of +two kings, the Mfumo ma Vivi (Bibbie of Tuckey) and the Mfumu +Nkulu or Nkuru (Cooloo). The distance was short, but it would +occupy five days, meaning a week. Before positively promising an +escort he said it would be necessary to inspect my outfit; I at +once placed it in the old man's hands, the better to say, "This +is not mine, ask Gidi Mavunga for it." + +My patience had been severely tried on first arrival at Banza +Nokki. From ruler to slave every one begged for cloth and rum, +till I learned to hate the names of these necessaries. Besides +the five recognized kings of the district, who wore black cloth +coats, all the petty chiefs of the neighbourhood flocked in, +importunate to share the spoils. A tariff, about one-third higher +than at Boma, was set upon every article and, if the most +outrageous price was refused, the seller, assuming an insipid +expression of countenance, declared that great white men +travelled with barrels, not with bottles of aguardente, and that +without liberality it would be impossible to leave the village. +Nsundi, the settlement above the Falls, was a journey of two +moons, and none of the ten "kings" on the way would take less +than Nessudikira's "dash." Congo Grande, as the people call São +Salvador, was only four marches to the E.S.E.; the road, however, +was dangerous, and an escort of at least fifty men would be +necessary. + +But when I was "upon the head of Gidi Mavunga" matters changed +for the better. Shortly after he took charge, one Tetu Mayella, +"King" of Neprat, accompanied by some twenty followers, entered +the village with a view to the stranger's rum: by referring them +to the new owner they perforce contented themselves after three +hours' "parliamenting," with a single bottle. The ruler of Nokki +wanted, besides gin and cloth, a pair of shoes for his poor feet, +which looked clad in alligator's skin; I referred him to his +father, and he got little by that motion. + +On the evening of September 10, Gidi Mavunga, who had been +visiting his "small country," returned, and declared himself +ready to set out. He placed before me ten heaps, each of as many +ground-nuts, and made me understand that, for visiting Nsundi and +S. Salvador, he would take fifty short "pieces" (of cloth) for +himself and the same number for his slaves; one moiety to be +advanced before the first trip to the Cataracts and the rest to +follow. For half my store of beads he undertook to ration his +men; a work which would have given us endless trouble. As I +agreed to all his conditions he promised to move on the next day- +-without the least intention of carrying out any one of his +conditions. + +These people are rich, and not easily tempted to hard work. +During the French émigration, the district of Banza Nokki drove +slaves to the value of 60,000 dollars per annum, and the dollar +is to the African the pound sterling of Europe. It is one of the +hundred out-stations which supplied the main dépôts, Boma and +Porto da Lenha. Small parties went out at certain seasons +provided with rum, gunpowder, and a little cloth; and either +bought the "chattels" or paid earnest money, promising to settle +the whole debt at their villages. Gidi Mavunga, like most of the +elders, was perfectly acquainted with the routes to Nsundi, S. +Salvador, and other frontier places, where the bush people +brought down their criminals and captives for barter. Beyond +those points his information was all from hearsay. + +Besides the large stores in their "small countries," the middle- +men have a multitude of retainers, who may at any moment be +converted into capital. Yet "slave" is a term hardly applicable +to such "chattels," who, as a rule, are free as their lords. They +hold at their disposal all that the master possesses, except his +wives; they sleep when they choose, they work when they like; +they attend to their private affairs, and, if blamed or punished, +they either run away, as at Zanzibar, to their own country, or +they take sanctuary with some neighbouring Mfumo, who, despite +the inevitable feud, is bound by custom to protect them. Cold and +hunger, the torments of the poor in Europe, are absolutely +unknown to them, and their condition contrasts most favourably +with the "vassus" and the "servus" of our feudal times. Their +wives and children are their own: the master cannot claim the +tyrannous marriage-rights of the baron; no "wedding-dish" is +carried up to the castle; nor is the eldest born "accounted the +son of the serf's lord, for he perchance it was who begat him." +The brutality of slavery, I must repeat, is mainly the effect of +civilization. "I shall never forget," says Captain Boteler, "the +impatient tosses of the head and angry looks displayed by a-- +lady--when the subject was canvassed. ‘A negro, a paltry negro, +ever understand or conform to the social tie of wedlock! No, +never! never!' Yet this lady was an English-woman." And when +James Barbot's supercargo begins to examine his negroes like +cattle he is begged, for decency's sake, to do it in a private +place, "which shows these blacks are very modest." It rather +proved the whites to be the reverse. + +At 7.20 A.M. on September 11, the "moleques" seized our luggage, +and we suddenly found ourselves on the path. Gidi Mavunga, +wearing pagne and fetish-bag, and handling a thin stick in which +two bulges had been cut, led us out of Banza Nokki, and took a +S.S.W. direction. The uneven ground was covered with a bitter +tomato (nenga) and with the shrub which, according to Herodotus, +bears wool instead of fruit. I sent home specimens of this +gossypium arboreum, which everywhere grows wild and which is +chiefly used for wicks. There is scant hope of cotton-culture +amongst a people whose industry barely suffices for ground-nuts. +The stiff clay soil everywhere showed traces of iron, and the +guide pointed out a palm-tree which had been split by the +electric fluid, and a broad, deep furrow, several feet long, +ending in a hole. The Nzazhi (lightning) is as dangerous and as +much dreaded on these hills as in Uganda: the south-west trade +meets the land wind from the north-east; strata of clouds in +different states of electricity combine, says the popular theory, +to produce the thunder and lightning which accompany rain like +the storms upon the mountains of Yemen. After 30' (- 1.50 miles) +we reached our destination, Banza Chinguvu, the head-quarters of +Gidi Mavunga. As we entered it he pointed to a pot full of greasy +stuff under a dwarf shed, saying, "Isso è meu Deus:" it was in +fact his Baka chya Mazinga. Beyond it stood the temple of Nbambi; +two suspended pieces of wood, cut in the shape of horns, bore +monkey skins on both sides of a dead armadillo, an animal +supposed to attract lightning when alive, and to repel it after +death. + +The Banza was beautifully situated on a dwarf platform, catching +the full force of the sea-breeze, and commanding to the north- +west a picturesque glimpse of the + + "waters rippling, flowing, + Flashing along the valley to the sea;" + +a mountain tarn representing the mighty stream. On the right lay +fields, dotted with papaw-trees, and plantations of maize and +manioc, thur (Cajanus), and sweet potatoes, a vegetable now +common, but not noticed by Tuckey; on the left, a deep ravine, +densely forested with noble growth, and supplying the best of +water, divides it from Tadi ja Mfimo, a pile of rock on the +opposite hill-side; here lay the Itombo village, belonging to +Gidi Mavunga's eldest son. Beyond it, the tree-clad heights, +rolling away into the distance, faded from blue-brown to the +faintest azure, hardly to be distinguished from the empyrean +above. The climate of these breezy uplands is superior even to +that of Banza Nokki, which lies some 170 feet lower; and the +nights are sensibly cooler. + +A few fathoms of altitude here make a surprising difference. The +little valleys with their chalet-like huts reminded me of the +Maroro and Kisanga basins, in the sister formation, the East +African Ghats, but now we have a hill-climate without ague and +fever. Our parallel is that of Yorukan Abokuta, where the people +are anti-oeci, both being about 6° distant from the Line,-- those +north, these south. There the bush is fetid, and the clammy air +gives a sense of deadly depression; here the atmosphere is pure, +the land is open, and there is enjoyment in the mere sense of +life. The effete matter in the blood and the fatty degeneration +of the muscles, the results of inactivity, imperfect respiration, +and F. Po, were soon consumed by the pure oxygen of the highland +air. I can attribute this superiority of the Congo region only to +the labours of an old civilization now obsolete; none but a thick +and energetic population could have cleared off the forest, which +at one time must have covered their mountains. + +The Banza consists of about fifty cottages, which are being new- +thatched before the rains, and the population may number 300. Our +host assigned to us one of his own huts; it fronted west, and was +a facsimile of that which we had just left. The old fox, +determined not to be "taken alive," has provided his earth with +three holes, opening to the north, to the east, and to the west. +We often detected him in the "ben," the matrimonial sanctum, +listening to private conversations which he could not understand. +Gidi Mavunga is decidedly a "serious person." The three walls +round the standing bedstead are hung with charms and amulets, +like the sacred pictures in country parts of Europe; and at the +head is his "Mavunga," of which Tuckey says (p. 180), "Each +village has a grand kissey (nkisi), or presiding divinity, named +Mevonga:" it is an anthropoid log, about three feet high, red, +white, and black, the former colour predominating. Two bits of +looking-glass represent the eyes, the nose is patulous, as though +offended by evil savour; the upper lip is drawn up in disdain, +the under overlaps the chin; and a little mirror is inserted into +the umbilical region. Mavunga's dress is represented by an +English billy-cock hat; while all kinds of "medicines," +calabashes, and a coarse knife depend from his neck to his +shoulders. The figures at the door are generally called +"Ngolowándá." + +It is said, I believe, of the Englishwoman- + + "If she will, she will, you may depend on't; + If she won't, she won't, and there's an end on't." + +I may safely predicate the same of the negro, who owns, like the +goose, a "singularly inflexible organization." Whenever he can, +he will, and he must, have his head. Gidi Mavunga would not even +break his fast before touching the cloth and beads, which are to +pay for guidance and carriage. The hut-door was closed, and in +half an hour all was settled to every one's satisfaction. Yet the +veteran did not disdain a little rascality. Awaiting his +opportunity, he tossed into a dark corner a little bundle of two +fancy cloths which I had given the "linguistero" and, when +detected, he shamelessly declared that such people have no right +to trade. + +Finally, our departure was settled for the next morning, and the +women at once began their preparations. Although they have sperm- +candles, torches are preferred for the road; odoriferous gums are +made up, as in the Gaboon, with rags or splints of bark; hence +the old writers say, "instead of putting wicks into the torches, +they put torches into the wicks." The travelling foods are mostly +boiled batatas (sweet potatoes), Kwanga, a hard and innutritious +pudding-like preparation of cassava which the "Expedition" (p. +197) calls "Coongo, a bitter root, that requires four days' +boiling to deprive it of its pernicious quality;" this is +probably the black or poisonous manioc. The national dish, +"chindungwa," would test the mouth of any curry-eater in the +world: it is composed of boiled ground-nuts and red peppers in +equal proportions, pounded separately in wooden mortars, mixed +and squeezed to drain off the oil; the hard mass, flavoured with +salt or honey, will keep for weeks. The bees are not hived in +Congo-land, but smoked out of hollow trees: as in F. Po and +Camarones Peaks, they rarely sting, like the harmless Angelito of +the Caraccas, "silla," or saddleback; which Humboldt ("Personal +Narrative," chap. xiii.) describes as a "little hairy bee, a +little smaller than the honey-bee of the north of Europe." +Captain Hall found the same near Tampico; and a hive-full was +sent to the blind but ingenious Francis Huber of Geneva, who died +in 1831. This seems to be the case with the busy hymenopter +generally in the highlands of Africa; the lowland swarms have +been the terror of travellers from Mungo Park's day to that of +the first East African Expedition. + +About noon we were visited by the confidential slaves of a +neighbouring chief, who prospectively welcomed us to his +territory. These men were gaudily attired in cast-off clothes, +and in the crimson night-caps formerly affected by the English +labourer: on the mountains, where the helmet is confined to +royalty, it is the head-dress used for state occasions. They sat +in the hut, chatting, laughing, and discussing palm wine by the +gallon, till they had their wicked will in the shape of a bottle +of gin; after this, they departed with many low congés. + +It was a study to see Gidi Mavunga amidst the vassals and serfs +of his own village. He had no moated castle, no "Quinquengrogne;" +but his habitation was grander far,--that glorious hill-side, +with all its prospects of mountain and river, field and forest, +valley and village. As he sat upon the mat under his little +piazza, all the dependants gathered in an outer semicircle, the +children, dogs, and cats forming an inner chord. A crowd of +"moleques" placed before him three black pots, one containing a +savoury stew, the others beans and vegetables, which he +transferred to a deep platter, and proved himself no mean +trencherman. The earthenware is of native make, by no means +ornamental, but useful because it retains the heat; it resembles +the produce of the Gold Coast, and the "pepper-pot" platter of +the West Indies. His cup was filled as fast as he drained the +palm wine, and, at times, he passed a huge mouthful to a small +son or daughter, smiling at the serious and awkward attempts at +deglutition. The washing of hands and mouth before and after +feeding shows progress after Tuckey's day (p. 360). We were not +asked to join him: an African, when upon a journey, will beg for +everything he sees you eat or drink, but there is no return in +kind. I have read of negro hospitality, but it has never been my +fate to witness an approach to that virtue. The chief will, it is +true, quarrel with you if his house be passed without a visit; +but his object in taking you in is to make all he can of you. If +a purse be pulled out, he waxes wroth, because he wishes to +secure at once the reputation of generosity and the profits of a +present doubling the worth of a regular "addition." When Gidi +Mavunga rose from his meal, the elder dependants took his place; +the junior bipeds followed, and the remnants were thrown to the +quadrupeds. It was a fair copy in black of a baronial and +mediæval life. + +The dogs were not neglected during the meal; but over-eagerness +was repressed by a stout truncheon lying handily near the old +negro Jarl. The animals are small and stunted, long-nosed and +crooked-limbed, with curly tails often cut, sharp ears which show +that they have not lost the use of the erecting muscles, and so +far wild that they cannot bark. The colour is either black and +white or yellow and white, as in Stambul and India. Overrun with +ticks and foul with mange, they are too broken-spirited to rob, +except by secretly sneaking into the huts, and, however often +beaten off, they return to the charge like sitting hens. The +people prize these wretched tikes, because they are ever ready to +worry a stranger, and are useful in driving game from the bush. +Yet they barbarously ill-treat them. The hungry cats are as poor +a breed as the pure English, and, though no one feeds them, these +domesticated tigerkins swarm. The only happy pets are the +parrots. Every village swarms with hogs, the filthy wealth of the +old Saxon proprietor, and their habits are disgusting as their +forms are obscene. Every Anglo-Indian will understand what I +mean. + +My memory of "Congo chop" is all in its favour: I can recommend +it even to "Fin Bee." The people of S'a Leone declare that your +life is safe when you can enjoy native food. Perhaps this means +that, during the time required to train the palate, strangers +will have escaped their "seasoning" fevers and chills. But +foreigners will certainly fare better and, cæteris paribus, +outlive their brother whites, when they can substitute African +stews for the roast and boiled goat and cow, likest to donkey- +meat, for the waxy and insipid potato and for heavy pudding and +tart, with which their jaded stomach is laden, as if it had the +digestion of north latitude 50°. It is popularly believed that +the Germans, who come from the land of greatest extremes, live +longer at the White Man's Grave than the English, whereas the +Spaniards are the most short-lived, one consul per annum being +the normal rate. Perhaps the greater "adaptability" of the Teuton +explains the cause. + +The evening began with a game of ball in the large open space +amongst the houses forming the village square. The implement was +a roll of palm-coir tightly bound with the central fibre of the +plantain-leaf. The players, two parties of some twenty slaves, of +all ages and sizes, mingled, each side striving to catch the +ball, and with many feints and antics to pass it on to a friend. +When it fell out of bounds, the juniors ran to pick it up with +frantic screams. It was interesting, as showing the difference +between the highlander and the lowlander; one might pass years on +the Congo plains without seeing so much voluntary exertion: yet a +similar game of ball is described by the Rev. Mr. Waddell +("Twenty-nine years in the West Indies and Central Africa," chap. +xvii. London, Nelsons, 1863). The evening ended, as it often does +before a march, when rest is required, with extra hard work, a +drinking bout deep as the Rhineland baron's in the good old time, +and a dance in which both sexes joined. As there were neither +torches nor moon, I did not attend; the singing, the shouting, +and the drumming, which lasted till midnight, spoke well for the +agility and endurance of the fair montagnardes. + +What lightens Gidi Mavunga's steps is the immediate prospect of +the Munlola or preliminary showers, which, beginning in mid- +September, last, with a certain persistence of fall, till +October. During the Munlola, the sea-breeze is silent, and the +sky is clad with a very thin mist, which, however, supplies +abundant downfalls. The year in the Lower Congo corresponds with +that of the Gaboon in practice, if not in theory, and the storms +are furious as those of Yoruba, where the seasons are, of course, +inverted, the great rains extending from May to August. The +climate is capricious, as everywhere about the equator, and the +nearer the river the heavier are the showers. The people double +their lives by reckoning the rains as one year, and the dries as +another: when the old missionaries wished to explain that the +Saviour offered Himself for the sins of man at the age of thirty- +three, they said that he was sixty-six seasons old. + +After the light rains of the autumnal equinox, come the Mvula za +Chintomba, the "Chuvas grandes" of the Portuguese, lasting to the +end of November. They are heavy, accompanied by violent tornadoes +and storms, greatly feared by the people. The moisture of the +atmosphere, not being gradually condensed by forests, must be +precipitated in violent downfalls, and this is perhaps the +principal evil of clearing the country. December begins the +"little dries," which extend to February and March; then set in +the rains of the vernal equinox, with furious discharges of +electricity; June is the wettest month on the highlands, but not +on the lower river. In mid-July commence the "middle-dries," here +called Ngondi Asivu (Tuckey's "Gondy Assivoo"); upon the upper +river this Cacimbo lasts between April and September; when it +passes over the bush is burned, and the women hoe the ground to +receive its seed. Carli well describes this season when he says:- +-"The winter of the kingdom of Congo is the mild spring or autumn +of Italy; it is not subject to rains, but every morning there +falls a dew which fertilizes the earth." This meteor was not +observed on the highlands of Banza Nokki and Nkulu; it is +probably confined to the low country, where I found it falling +heavily. + + + + + + Chapter XIII. + + The March to Banza Nkulu. + + + +But revelry at night brings morning headache, and we did not set +out, as agreed, at dawn. By slow degrees the grumbling, loitering +party was mustered. The chiefs were Gidi Mavunga, head guide, and +his son Papagayo, a dull quiet body; Chico Mpamba, "French +landlord" of Banza Nokki, and my interpreter Nchama Chamvu. +Fourteen armed moleques carried our hammocks and our little +viaticum in the shape of four bottles of present-gin, two costa- +finas, (= twenty-four yards of fancy cotton), and fourteen +fathoms of satin-stripe, the latter a reserved fund. The boy +"Lendo," whose appropriate name means "The Go," bore a burden of +his own size all day, and acted as little foot-page at the halt. +The "gentlemen" were in full travelling costume. Slung by a thong +to the chief guide's left shoulder were a tiger-cat skin, +cardamom-sheaths and birds' beaks and claws clustering round a +something in shape like the largest German sausage, the whole +ruddled with ochre: this charm must not be touched by the herd; a +slave-lad, having unwittingly offended, knelt down whilst the +wearer applied a dusty big toe between his eyebrows. Papagayo had +a bag of grass-cloth and bits of cane, from which protruded +strips of leather and scarlet broadcloth. + +At 6.45 A.M. on Saturday, September 12, we exchanged the fields +surrounding Banza Chinguvu for a ridge or narrow plateau trending +to the north-east and bending to the magnetic north. A few +minutes led to a rock-slope, fit only for goat-hoofs or nude- +footed natives. Winding along the hill-sides, we passed out of +the Nokki territory into that of Ntombo, the property of Mfumo +Nelongo: here we descended into a little vale or gorge bright as +verdure could make it-- + + "arborets and flowers + Imborder'd on each bank" + +of a bubbling brook, a true naiad of the hills, which ran to the +embrace of the mighty stream; it characteristically stained its +bed with iron. On our right was a conspicuous landmark, Zululu ke +Sombe, a tall rock bearing the semblance of an elephant from the +north-east, visible from the Congo's right bank and commanding a +view of all the hills. Banza Vivi, our first destination, +perching high on the farther side of the blue depression, bore +due north. We then struck the roughest of descents, down broken +outcrops and chines of granite--no wonder that the women have +such grand legs. This led us into a dark green depression where +lay Banza Chinsavu, the abode of King Nelongo. Our course had +been three miles to the north-north-east. + +Nothing can be more charming than the site, a small horseshoe +valley, formed by a Wady or Fiumara, upon whose raised left bank +stands the settlement, sheltered by palms, plantations, and wild +figs. Eastward is a slope of bare rock polished by the rain- +torrents; westward rise the grassy hills variegated with bush and +boulder. We next crossed a rocky divide to the north and found a +second basin also fertilized by its own stream; here the cactus +and aloes, the vegetation of the desert, contrasted with half-a- +dozen shades of green, the banana, the sycamore, the egg-plant, +the sweet potato, the wild pepper, and the grass, whose colours +were paling, but not so rapidly as in the lower lands. + +We dismounted in state from our tipoias at the verandah of an +empty house, where a chair had been placed; and we prepared for +the usual delay and display. The guides will not leave these +villages unvisited lest a "war" result; all the chiefs are +cousins and one must not monopolize the plunder. A great man +takes an hour to dress, and Nelongo was evidently soothing the +toils of the toilette with a musical bellows called an accordeon. +He sent us some poor, well-watered Msámbá (palm toddy), and +presently he appeared, a fat, good-natured man, as usual, +ridiculously habited. He took the first opportunity of curtly +saying in better Portuguese than usual, "There is no more march +to-day!" This was rather too much for a somewhat testy traveller, +when he changed his tone, begged me not to embroil him with a +powerful neighbour, and promised that we should set out that +evening. He at once sent for provisions, fowls, and a small +river-fish, sugar-cane, and a fine bunch of S. Thomé bananas. + +About noon appeared Chico Furano, son of the late Chico de Ouro, +in his quality of "English linguister;" a low position to which +want of "savvy" has reduced him. His studies of our tongue are +represented by an eternal "Yes!" his wits by the negative; he +boasts of knowing how to "tratar com o branco" and, declining to +bargain, he robs double. He is a short, small, dark man with +mountaineer legs, a frightful psora, and an inveterate habit of +drink. He saluted his superior, Nelongo, with immense ceremony, +dating probably from the palmy times of the Mwani-Congo. Equals +squat before one another, and shaking hands crosswise clap palms. +Chico Furano kneels, places both "ferients" upon the earth and +touches his nose-tip; he then traces three ground-crosses with +the Jovian finger; again touches his nose; beats his "volæ" on +the dust, and draws them along the cheeks; then he bends down, +applying firstly the right, secondly the left face side, and +lastly the palms and dorsa of the hands to mother earth. Both +superior and inferior end with the Sakila or batta-palmas,[FN#26] +three bouts of three claps in the best of time separated by the +shortest of pauses, and lastly a "tiger" of four claps. The +ceremony is more elaborate than the "wallowings" and dust- +shovellings described by Ibn Batuta at the Asiatic courts, by +Jobson at Tenda,by Chapperton at Oyo,by Denham amongst the +Mesgows, and by travellers to Dahome and to the Cazembe. Yet the +system is virtually the same in these distant kingdoms, which do +not know one another's names. + +Chico Furano brought a Mundongo slave, a fine specimen of +humanity, some six feet high, weighing perhaps thirteen stone, +all bone and muscle, willing and hard-working, looking upon the +Congo men as if they were women or children. He spoke a few words +of Portuguese, and with the master's assistance I was able to +catechize him. He did not deny that his people were "papagentes," +but he declared that they confined the practice to slain enemies. +He told a number of classical tales about double men, attached, +not like the Siamese twins, but dos-à-dos; of tribes whose feet +acted as parasols, the Plinian Sciapodæ and the Persian Tasmeh- +pa, and of mermen who live and sleep in the inner waters--I also +heard this from M. Parrot, a palpable believer. He described his +journey down the great river, and declared that beyond his +country's frontier the Nzadi issues from a lake which he +described as having a sea-horizon, where canoes lose sight of +land, and where they are in danger from violent storms; he +described the latter with great animation, and his descriptions +much reminded me of Dibbie, the "Dark Lake." Probably this was +genuine geography, although he could not tell the name of the +inner sea, the Achelunda of old cosmographers. Tuckey's map also +lays down in N. lat. 2° to 3° and in E. long. (G.) 17° to 18° a +great swamp draining to the south; and his "Narrative" (p. 178) +tells us that some thirty days above Banza Mavunda, which is 20 +to 24 miles above the Yellala, "the river issues by many small +streams from a great marsh or lake of mud." This would suggest a +reservoir alternately flooded and shrinking; possibly lacustrine +bays and the bulges formed by the middle course of the Lualaba. + +Despite the promise, we were delayed by King Nekorado, whose +town, Palabala, lies at some distance, and who, negro-like, will +consult only his own convenience. In the afternoon we were +visited by a royal son, who announced that his royal father +feared the heat, but would appear with the moon, which was +equivalent to saying that we might expect him on the morrow. He +is known to be a gueux, and Gidi Mavunga boasts of having harried +and burned sundry of his villages, so he must make up by +appearance for deficient reality. His appearance was announced by +the Mpungi, the Egyptian Zagharit, the Persian Kil; this +"lullilooing" in the bush country becomes an odd moaning howl +like the hyaena's laugh. Runners and criers preceded the hammock, +which he had probably mounted at the first field; a pet slave +carried his chair, covered with crimson cloth, and Frédérique his +"linguister" paced proudly by its side. + +After robing himself in Nelongo's house, King Nekorado held a +levee under the shadiest fig, which acted bentang-tree; all the +moleques squatting in a demi-lune before the presence. A short +black man, with the round eyes, the button-like nose, the fat +circular face, and the weakly vanishing chin which denote the +lower type of Congoese, he coldly extended a chimpanzee's paw +without rising or raising his eyes, in token that nothing around +him deserved a glance. I made him au-fait as to my intentions, +produced, as "mata-bicho," a bottle of gin, and sent a dash of +costa-fina, to which a few yards of satin-stripe were thrown in. + +The gin was drunk with the usual greed, and the presents were +received with the normal objections. + +"Why should not I, a king like Nessudikira, receive a ‘dash' +equal to his?" + +"He is my host, I pay him for bed and board!" + +"We are all cousins; why shall one be treated better than the +other?" + +"As you please! you have received your due, and to-day we march." + +After this I rose and returned to my hut ready for the inevitable +"row." + +It was not long coming; the new arrivals set up the war-song, and +Gidi Mavunga thought it time to make a demonstration. Drawing an +old cutlass and bending almost double, he began to rush about, +slashing and cutting down imaginary foes, whilst his men looked +to their guns. The greenhorn would have expected a regular stand- +up fight, ending in half-a-dozen deaths, but the Papagayo +snatched away his father's rusty blade, and Chico Furano, seizing +the warrior's head, despite the mildest of resistance, bent it +almost to the ground. Thus valour succumbed to numbers. "He is a +great man," whispered my interpreter, "and if they chaunt their +battle-song, he must show them his bravery." The truly +characteristic scene ended in our being supplied with some +fourteen black pots full of flesh, fowl, beans, and manioc, +together with an abundance of plantains and sugar-cane; a select +dish was "put in fetish" (set aside) for Gidi Mavunga, and the +friendly foes all sat down to feast. The querelle d'Allemand +ended with a general but vain petition for "t'other bottle." + +Fahrenheit showed 90° in the shade, as we bade adieu to the +little land-bay, and made for the high rugged wall to the north- +north-east separating the river valley from the inner country. On +the summit we halted to enjoy the delicious sea-breeze with its +ascending curve, and the delightful prospect far below. Some +1,300 feet beneath us appeared the Nzadi, narrowed to a torrent, +and rushing violently down its highly inclined bed, a straight +reach running east and west, in length from four and a half to +five miles. As we fronted north, the Morro (cliff) Kala fell +bluff towards its blue bight, the Mayumba Bay of the chart, on +our left; to the right a black gate formed by twin cliffs shut +out the upper stream from view. The panorama of hill-fold and +projection, each bounded by deep green lines, which argued +torrents during the rains; the graceful slopes sinking towards +the river and indenting the bed and the little tree-clad isle, +Zun gáchyá Idí (Tuckey's "Zunga Tooly Calavangoo") hugging the +northern side, where the Lufu torrent adds its tribute to the +waters, convinced me that the charms of Congo scenery had not +been exaggerated. Yet the prospect had its element of sadness; +the old ruffian, Gidi Mavunga, recounted how he had burned this +place and broken that, where palm-clumps, grass-clearings, and +plantations lying waste denoted the curse of Ham upon the land. + +Our course now wound north-eastwards along hill-shoulders, rich +in flowery plants and scented mimosa. After two hours' walking, +we came suddenly upon the Morro or cliff of the river-trough, now +about 1,000 feet deep. Here the prospect again shifted; the black +gate opened, showing the lowest of the long line of rapids called +Borongwa ya Vivi, with the natives and their canoes, like flies +upon bits of straw. + +On the southern bank was a small perennial influent, lined with +bright green above, and with chocolate brown below, within some +twenty yards of its mouth. It arises, they say, near S. Salvador, +and is not navigable, although in places it bears canoes. The +people call it Npozo, possibly it represents the S. Salvador +River of old travellers. The distance was three direct or five +indirect miles north of the stony cone, Zululu ke Sombe. + +The descent was a malevoie, over slabs and boulders, loose stones +and clayey ground, slippery as ice after rain. The moleques +descended like chamois within twenty minutes: Selim and I, with +booted feet, took double the time, but on return we ascended it +in forty-five minutes. Viewed from below, the base rests upon +cliffs of gneiss, with debris and quartz in masses, bands and +pebbles, pure and impure, white and rusty. Upon it rises a +stratum of ferruginous clay, with large hard-heads of granite, +gneiss, and schist, blocks of conglomerate, and nodules of +ironstone. Higher still is the bank of yellow clay, capped with +shallow humus. The waving profile is backed by steep hills, with +rocky sides and long ridges of ground, the site of the palm- +hidden Banzas. + +Reaching the base, a heap of tumbled boulders, we crossed in a +canoe the mouth of the Npozo to a sandy cove in the southern +bank, the terminus of river navigation. The people called it +Unyenge Assiku: I cannot but suspect that this is the place where +Tuckey left his boats, and which he terms "Nomaza Cove." The name +is quite unknown, and suggests that the interpreters tried to +explain by "No majia" (water) that here the voyage must end. + +Off this baylet are three rocky islets, disposed in a triangle, +slabs collected by a broken reef, and collectively known as Zunga +Nuapozo; the clear-way is between them and the southern bank, +which is partly provided with a backwater; the northern three +quarters of the bed show something like a scour and a rapid. +Zunga chya Ingololo, the northernmost and smallest, bears a +single tree, and projects a bar far into the stream: the central +and westernmost is a rock with a canoe passage between it and the +southern and largest, Zunga chya Tuvi. The latter has three tree- +clumps; and a patch of clean white sand on its western side +measures the daily rise of the water, eight inches to a foot, and +shows the highest level of the flood, here twelve to thirteen +feet. The fishermen use it as a drying-ground for their game. +They also crowd every day to two sandy covelets on the southern +bank, separated by a tongue of rough boulders. Here naked urchins +look on whilst their fathers work, or aid in drying the nets, or +lie prone upon the sand, exposing their backs to the broiling +sun. The other denizens of the place are fish-eagles, who sit en +faction upon the topmost branches of withered trees. I saw only +two kinds of fish, one small as a minnow, and the other +approaching the size of a herring. Up stream they are said to be +much larger. They are not salted, but smoked or sun-dried when +the weather serves: stuffed with chillies and fried with oil, +they are good eating as the Kinnam of the Gold Coast. + +We prepared to bivouac under a fine shady Saffu, or wild fig, a +low, thick trunk whose dark foliage, fleshy as the lime-leaf, so +often hangs its tresses over the river, and whose red berries may +feed man as well as monkey. The yellow flowers of hypericum, +blooming around us, made me gratefully savour our escape from +mangrove and pandamus. About sunset a gentle shower, the first of +the season, caused the fisher-boys to dance with joy; it lasted +two good hours, and then it was dispersed by a strong westerly +breeze. Canoes and lights flashed before our eyes during half the +night; and wild beasts, answering one another from rock to rock, +hundreds of feet above us, added a savage, African feature to the +goodly mise-en-scène. + +Arising early next morning, I was assured that it is necessary to +cross the stream in order to reach the Cataracts. Tuckey did so, +but further inquiry convinced me that it is a mistake to march +along the northern bank. Of course, in skirting the southern +side, we should not have approached so near the stream, where +bluffs and débris rendered travelling hopeless. The amiable +ichthyophagi agreed for two fathoms of fancy cloth to ferry us +across the river, which is here half a mile broad. The six-knot +current compels canoes to run up the left shore by means of its +backwater, and, when crossing, to make allowance for the drift +downwards. The aneroid now showed 860 feet of absolute altitude, +and about sixty-five feet above the landing-place of Banza Nokki; +the distance along the stream is fourteen miles, and thus the +fall will be about five feet per mile below the Borongwa ya Vivi. +We could see from a level the "smaller rapids of Vivi" bursting +through their black gate with angry foam, flashing white from +side to side. No canoe could shoot this "Cachoeira," but I do not +think that a Nile Dahabiyah or a Brazilian Ajôjô would find great +difficulty. Between us and the rapids, the concavity of the +southern bank forms a bight or bay. The vortices, in which +Tuckey's sloop was whirled round despite oars and sails, and in +whose hollow the punt entirely disappeared, "so that the +depression must have been three or four feet deep," were nowhere +seen at this fuller season. The aspect of the surface is that of +every large deep stream with broken bottom; the water boils up in +ever widening domes, as though a system of fountains sprang from +below. Each centre is apparently higher than its circle; it +spreads as if a rock had been thrown into it, and the outer rim +throws off little eddies and whirls no larger than a thimble. The +mirrory surface of the lower river thus becomes mottled with +light and shade, and the reflected image of the trough-cliff is +broken into the most fantastic shapes. + +Fifteen minutes of hard paddling landed us at Selele, a stony +point between two sandy baylets: amongst the mass of angular +boulders a tree again showed the highest flood-mark to be 13 +feet. Here for the first time I remarked the black glaze +concerning which so much has been written.[FN#28] The colour is a +sunburnt black, tinted ferruginous red like meteoric stones, and +it is generally friable, crumbling under the nails. It tastes +strongly of iron, which flavours almost every spring in the +country, yet the most likely places do not show this +incrustation. Sometimes it looks like a matrix in which pudding- +stone has been imbedded; it may be two or three lines in +thickness and it does not colour the inside. At other times it +hardly measures the thickness of paper, coating the gneiss slabs +like plumbago. Humboldt tells us ("Personal Narrative," ii. 243, +Bohn), that the "Indians" of the Atures declare the rocks to be +burnt (carbonized) by the sun's rays, and I have often found the +same black glaze upon the marly sandstones that alternate with +calcareous formations where no stream ever reached them--for +instance, on the highlands of Judea, between Jerusalem and the +Dead Sea; in inner Istria, and in most countries upon the borders +of the Mediterranean. + +Leaving Selele, we ascended a steep hill with many glissadès, the +effect of last night's rain. These hammock-journeys are mostly +equivalent to walking and paying for carriage; it would be +cruelty to animals were one to ride except when entering the +villages. After threading for half an hour lanes of grass, we +were received in a little village of the Banza Vivi district by +Nessala, linguistère to King Luvungungwete. The guest room was +furnished with every luxury; hides of a fine antelope described +as the Kudu; cruets, basins, bottles, and other vases; "lustre +mugs," John Andersons and Toby Philpots. A good calabash, full of + + "Freshening wine + More bounteous far than all the frantic juice + Which Bacchus pours," + +was produced, although the drought and scarcity of June rain had +dried the palms. Before I outstretched myself, the fairer half of +the population sent a message to say that they had never seen a +white man: what less could be done than to distribute a few beads +and pat the children, who screamed like sucking pigs and +"squirmed" like young monkeys? + +The Chrononhotonthologus of a king came in the afternoon with a +tail of a hundred vertebræ: he was a milder specimen than usual; +he had neither Mambrino's helmet nor beadle's cloak, and perhaps +his bashfulness in the presence of strangers arose from a +consciousness that his head-gear and robes were not in keeping +with his station. But he did not fail to grumble at his "dash;" +indeed, he must be more than African who shall say, "Hold! +enough." He vouchsafed a small return in fowls and "beneficent +manioc," and sent with us three slaves, to serve, not as guides, +but as a basis for a separate charge. + +After sunset all was made ready for the Batuque. The ball-room +was the village square; the decorations were the dense trees; the +orchestra consisted of two drums, a grande caisse eight feet and +a half long, placed horizontally, and a smaller specimen standing +on a foot like that of an old-fashioned champagne-glass; the +broader ends were covered with deer skins, upon which both hands +perform; and the illuminations were flaming heaps of straw, +which, when exhausted, were replaced by ground-nuts spitted upon +a bamboo splint. This contrivance is far simpler than a dip- +candle, the arachis is broken off as it chars, and, when the lamp +dims, turning it upside down causes a fresh flow of oil. The +ruder sex occupied one half of the ring, and the rest was +appropriated to dame and damsel. The Batuque is said to be the +original Cachucha; Barbot calls it a danse des filoux, and it has +the merit of perfectly expressing, as Captain Cook's companions +remarked of the performances in the South Sea Islands, what it +means. + +The hero of the night was Chico Mpamba; he must have caused a +jealous pang to shoot through many a masculine bosom. With +bending waist, arms gracefully extended forwards, and fingers +snapping louder than castanets; with the upper half of the body +fixed as to a stake, and with the lower convulsive as a scotched +snake, he advanced and retired by a complicated shuffle, keeping +time with the tom-tom and jingling his brass anklets, which +weighed at least three pounds, and which, by the by, lamed him +for several days. But he was heroic as the singer who broke his +collar-bone by the ut di petto. A peculiar accompaniment was a +dulcet whistle with lips protruded; hence probably the fable of +Pliny's Astomoi, and the Africans of Eudoxus, whose joined lips +compelled them to eat a single grain at a time, and to drink +through a cane before sherry-cobblers were known. Others joined +him, dancing either vis-à-vis or by his side; and more than one +girl, who could no longer endure being a wall-flower, glided into +the ring and was received with a roar of applause. In the +feminine performance the eyes are timidly bent upon the ground; +the steps are shorter and daintier, and the ritrosa appears at +once to shun and to entice her cavalier, who, thus repulsed and +attracted, redoubles the exciting measure till the delight of the +spectators knows no bounds. Old Gidi Mavunga flings off his upper +garment, and with the fire of a youth of twenty enters the +circle, where his performance is looked upon with respect, if not +with admiration. Wilder and wilder waxeth the "Devil's delight," +till even the bystanders, especially the women, though they keep +their places in the outer circle, cannot restrain that wonderful +movement of haunch and flank. I laughed till midnight, and left +the dancers dancing still. + +At 5 A.M. the strayed revellers found to their disgust a thick +fog, or rather a thin drizzle, damping grass and path, and +suggesting anything but a pleasant trudge. They declared that +starvation awaited us, as the "fancy cloths" were at an end, but +I stopped that objection by a reference to the reserved fund. +After an hour of sulky talk we set out towards the upper part of +Banza Vivi, passing a small but pretty hill plain, with manioc- +fields, gum-trees, and the bombax very symmetrical. We saw no +animals: here and there appeared the trail of a hyaena, the only +larger carnivor that now haunts the mountains. The song of Mkuka +Mpela, the wild pigeon, and Fungú, the cuckoo, were loud in the +brake: the Abbé Proyart makes the male cuculus chant his coo, +coo, coo; mounting one note above another with as much precision +as a musician would sound his ut, re, mi: when he reached the +third note, his mate takes it up and ascends to the octave. After +this both recommence the same song. + +The stiff ascent gave us lovely views of the lake-like river and +both its banks: after three quarters of an hour we reached Vivi +of Banza Simbo. The people vainly called to us, "Wiza!"-- "Come +thou!" and "Luiza! luiza kwenu!"-- "Come, come here!" Our +moleques, disliking the dangerous proximity, advanced at a walk +which might be called a canter. + +Presently we reached the dividing ridge, 1,394 feet high, between +Banza Vivi and Nkulu, whose palm-trees, thrown out against the +sky, bore 82° (M.) Looking to the north with easting, we had a +view of no less than six distinct distances. The actual +foreground, a hollow between two land-waves, could not conceal +the "Crocodile's Head:" the latter, five miles off and bearing +65° (M.), forms the southern staple of the Yellala Gate, whose +rapids were not visible, and it fronts the Quoin, which hems in +the stream on the other side. The key-stone of the inverted arch +between them was a yellow-flanked, tree-topped hill, rising +immediately above the great rapids: beyond if waved, in far +succession, three several swells of ground, each flatter and +bluer than its nearer neighbour, and capping the whole stood +Kongo de Lemba, a tall solitary sugarloaf, bearing 75° (M.), with +its outlying conelets concealing like a mass of smoke the world +that lay beyond. + +The ridges appeared to trend north and south, and to approach the +river's bending bed at different angles; their sides were steep, +and in places scarped where they fell into the intervening +hollows. The valleys conducted many a water to the main drain, +and during the wet season they must be well-nigh impassable. At +the end of the dries the only green is in the hill-folds and the +basin-sinks, where the trees muster strong enough to defend +themselves from the destructive annual fires. These bush-burnings +have effectually disforested the land, and in some places +building timber and even fuel have become scarce. In the Abrus, +barely two feet high, I could hardly recognize the tall tree of +Eastern Africa, except by its scarlet "carats," which here the +people disdain to use as beads. The scorching of the leaves +stunts the shrubs, thickens the bark, and makes the growth +scrubby, so that the labourer has nothing to do but to clear away +the grass: I afterwards remarked the same effects on the +Brazilian Campos. + +We descended the dividing ridge, which is also painfully steep, +especially near the foot, and crossed the rolling hollow with its +three chalybeate brooks, beyond which lay our destination. Tuckey +describes the hills between Boma and Nkulu as stony and barren, +which is perhaps a little too strong. The dark red clay soil, +dried almost to the consistency of laterite, cannot be loosened +by rain or sun, and in places it is hardened like that of +Brazilian Porto Seguro, where the people complain that they +cannot bury their dead. All the uplands, however, grow grass +which is sometimes ten to twelve feet tall, and in places there +are shrubs and trees. About Nkulu the highlands are rightly +described as "steep hills of quartz, ferruginous earth, and +syenite with fertile tops:" rocks and stones are rare upon the +plateaux: they are rich enough to produce everything from wheat +to coffee, and hardly a hundredth part is cultivated. Thin and +almost transparent lines of palms denote the several Banzas on +the ridges, and in the valley are rock circles like magnified and +prostrated Stonehenges. + +The "termes arborum" is universal, and anthills form a prominent +feature. It has been remarked that these buildings are the most +conspicuous architectural efforts of the country, and the Abbé +Proyart observes that here more effectually than in any other +land man ought to be sent to the ant school. The material is of +dark and sometimes black earth as in the Gaboon, and the shape is +the umbrella, rarely double or pagoda-roofed. The column may be +twelve to eighteen inches high, and the diameter of the capital +attains two feet: I never saw, however, a "gigantic toadstool as +high as a one-storied house."[FN#28] Nor are the mushroom tops +now used as chafing-dishes. + +The grateful tamarind grows everywhere, but nowhere so gloriously +as on the lower elevations. The only true sycomores which I saw +were stunted specimens near the Yellala. They contrasted poorly +with the growth of the Ugogi Dhun, a noble patriarch, whose +circle of shade under a vertical sun was 500 feet, and which I +thought worthy of a portrait in "Lake Regions of Central Africa" +(p. 195, vol. i.). I need hardly warn the reader that, properly +speaking, it is the "Sycamine which produces the fruit called +Syconwrus or fig-mulberry;" but we apply the term "Sycomore" to +the tree as well as to its fruit. + +After three hours of actual marching (= seven miles) in an east- +north-easterly direction, we ascended a path greasy with drizzle, +parquetted by negro feet and infested with "drivers," which now +became troublesome. It led to Banza Nkulu, a shabby settlement of +unclean plantations and ragged huts of far inferior construction: +stacks of grass were piled upon the ground, and this new thatch +was greatly wanted. Here the lands of the "bush-men" begin: +instead of marching directly to the chief's house, we sat in our +wet clothes under a friendly wild fig. The women flocked out at +the cry of the hammock-bearers and, nursing their babies, sat +down to the enjoyment of a stare; they had lost, however, the +merriment of their more civilized sisters, and they hardly ever +vouchsafed a laugh or a smile. The curiosity of the "Zinkomba" +knew no bounds; all were unusually agitated by the aspect of a +man coloured like themselves; they jerked out their leafy +crinolines by forward movements of the lower body, swayed +violently from side to side, and cried "Ha-rr-rr-rr-rr!" and +"Jojolo! jojolo!" till they were hoarse. As usual, the adults +would not allow me to approach them, and I was obliged to rest +contented with sketching their absurdities. To punish this +daring, the Jinkomba brought a man masked like a white, with +beard and whiskers, who is supposed to strike the stranger with +awe: it was all in vain, I had learned to trill the R as roundly +as themselves, and they presently left me as a "perdido," an +incorrigible. + +In the days of the Expedition, Nkulu had but one ruler, of whom +Tuckey says (p. 148), that he found less pomp and noise, but much +more civility and hospitality than from the richer kings he had +visited. Now there are three who require their "dashes," and each +has his linguister, who must not be passed by without notice. +Moreover, as population and luxury have increased on the line of +route, bark-cloth has disappeared and even the slaves are dressed +in cottons. We waited, patiently hungry, till 4 P.M. because the +interpreters had gone on some "fish palaver" to the river. At +that hour a procession of some two hundred and fifty men headed +by a drum and Chingufu (cymbal-bells) defiled before us, crowding +round three umbrellas, trade-articles in the last stage of +"seediness." These comforts protected from the sun, which was +deep hid behind a purple nimbus, an equal number of great men in +absurd red nightcaps or old felt wideawakes, shirts of coloured +cotton, and second-hand waistcoats of silk or satin. The only +signs of luxury were here and there a well-carved ebony stick, +and a gunstock resplendent with brass tacks. All sat down in a +semi-circle before us, six or seven deep in front and four or +five at the sides: the women and children took their places in +the rear, and one of them fondled a prick-eared cur with an +attempt at a ribbon round its neck. + +The head linguister, who, like "Persian interpreters" to +commanders in chief of India during my clay, could not speak a +word of any language but his own, after clapping hands, +congratulated us in the name of the great king Nekulu; he lives, +it appears, in a Banza at some distance to the north or north- +east, out of sight of the river, and he cannot be visited without +great outlay of gunpowder and strong waters. We returned +compliments, and after the usual complications we came to the +main point, the "dash." I had privily kept a piece of satin- +stripe, and this was produced as the very last of our viaticum. +The interpreter, having been assured that we had nothing else to +give, retired with his posse to debate; whilst we derided the +wild manners of these "bush-folk," who feared to shake hands with +us. After an hour or so the council returned, clapped palms, sat +clown, grumbled at the gift and gave formal leave to see the +Yellala--how the word now jarred in my ears after its abominable +repetition! Had these men been told a month before that a white +would have paid for permission to visit what they considered +common property, they would have refused belief: with +characteristic readiness, however, the moment they saw an +opportunity of "making money," they treated the novelty as a +matter of course. + +This palaver settled, the chiefs danced within a ring formed by +their retainers; the speeches were all sung, not spoken; and +obeisances and dustings of elaborate complexity concluded the +eventful meeting, which broke up as it began with drum and +Chingufu. There was not a symptom of hospitality; we had +preserved some provaunt from our last station, or we should have +been famished. My escort forgot their disappointments in a +"ball," which lasted through the cool, clear and dewy night till +nearly dawn. It is evidently a happy temperament which can dance +off hunger and fatigue. + + + + + + Chapter XIV. + + The Yellala of the Congo. + + + +At dawn (September 16), I began the short march leading to the +Yellala.[FN#29] By stepping a few paces south of Nkulu, we had a +fine view of the Borongwa ya Vivi, the lowest rapids, whose +foaming slope contrasted well with the broad, smooth basin +beyond. Palabala, the village of Nekorado on the other side of +the stream, bore south (Mag.), still serving as a landmark; and +in this direction the ridges were crowned with palm orchards and +settlements. But the great Yellala was hidden by the hill- +shoulder. + +We at once fell into a descent of some 890 feet, which occupied +an hour. The ground was red iron-clay, greasy and slippery; dew- +dripping grass, twelve to fifteen feet tall, lined the path; the +surface was studded with dark ant-hills of the mushroom shape; +short sycomores appeared, and presently we came to rough +gradients of stone, which severely tried the "jarrets." After an +hour, we crossed at the trough-foot a brook of pure water, which, +uniting with two others, turns to the north-east, and, tumbling +over a little ledge, discharges itself into the main drain. An +ascent then led over a rounded hill with level summit, and +precipitous face all steps and drops of rock, some of them six +and seven feet high, opposed to the stream. Another half hour, +and a descent of 127 feet placed us under a stunted calabash, 100 +feet above the water, and commanding a full view of the Yellala. + +On the whole, the impression was favourable. Old Shimbah, the +Linguister at Porto da Lenha, and other natives had assured me +that the Cataracts were taller than the tallest trees. On the +other hand, the plain and unadorned narrative of the "Expedition" +had prepared me for a second-rate stream bubbling over a strong +bed. The river here sweeps round from the north-west, and bends +with a sharp elbow first to the south-west and then to the south- +east, the length of the latter reach being between four and five +miles. As far as the eye can see, the bed, which narrows from 900 +to 400 and 500 yards, is broken by rocks and reefs. A gate at the +upper end pours over its lintel a clear but dwarf fall, perhaps +two feet high. The eastern staple rises at first sheer from the +water's edge to the estimated altitude of a thousand feet,--this +is the "Crocodile's Head" which we saw on the last march, and +already the thin rains are robing its rocky surface with tender +green. The strata are disposed at angles, varying from 35° to +45°, and three streaks of bright trees denote Fiumaras about to +be filled. Opposite it is the "Quoin Hill," bluff to the stream, +and falling west with gradual incline. The noise of this higher +fall can hardly be heard at Nkulu, except on the stillest nights. + +Below the upper gate, the bed, now narrowing to 300 yards, shows +the great Yellala; the waters, after breaking into waves for a +mile and a half above, rush down an inclined plane of some thirty +feet in 300 yards, spuming, colliding and throwing up foam, which +looks dingy white against the dull yellow-brown of the less +disturbed channel--the movement is that of waves dashing upon a +pier. The bed is broken by the Zunga chya Malemba, which some +pronounced Sanga chya Malemba, an oval islet in mid-stream, whose +greater diameter is disposed along the axis of the bed. The +north-western apex, raised about fifty feet above the present +level of the waters, shows a little bay of pure sand, the +detritus of its rocks, with a flood-mark fifteen feet high, +whilst the opposite side bears a few wind-wrung trees. The +materials are gneiss and schist, banded with quartz--Tuckey's +great masses of slate. This is the "Terrapin" of the Nzadi. The +eastern fork, about 150 yards broad, is a mountain-torrent, +coursing unobstructed down its sandy trough, and, viewed from an +eminence, the waters of the mid-channel appear convex, a shallow +section of a cylinder,--it is a familiar shape well marked upon +the St. Lawrence Rapids. The western half is traversed by a reef, +connecting the islets with the right bank. During August, this +branch was found almost dry; in mid-September, it was nearly +full, and here the water breaks with the greatest violence. The +right bank is subtended for some hundred yards by blocks of +granite and greenstone, pitted with large basins and pot-holes, +delicately rounded, turned as with a lathe by the turbid waters. +The people declare that this greenstone contains copper, and +Professor Smith found particles in his specimens. The Portuguese +agents, to whom the natives carefully submit everything curious, +doubt the fact, as well as all reports of gold; yet there is no +reason why the latter should not be found. + +The current whirls and winds through its tortuous channels, which +are like castings of metal, in many distinct flows; some places +are almost stagnant, suggesting passages for canoes. Here the +fishermen have planted their weirs; some are wading in the pools, +others are drying their nets upon the stony ledges. During the +floods, however, this cheval-de-frise of boulders must all be +under water, and probably impassable. Tuckey supposes that the +inundation must produce a spectacle which justifies the high- +flown description of the people. I should imagine the reverse to +be the case; and Dr. Livingstone justly remarked[FN#30that, when +the river was full, the Yellala rapids would become comparatively +smooth, as he had found those of the Zambeze; and that therefore +a voyage pittoresque up the Congo should be made at that season. + +Before leaving the Yellala, I wandered along the right bank, and +found a cliff, whose overhanging brow formed a fine cavern; it +remarkably resembled the Martianez Fountain under the rock near +the beautiful Puerto de Orotava. Here the fishermen were +disporting themselves, and cooking their game, which they +willingly exchanged for beads. All were of the Silurus family, +varying from a few inches to two feet. Fish-eagles sat upon the +ledges overhanging the stream, and a flight of large cranes +wheeled majestically in the upper air: according to the people, +they are always to be seen at the Yellalas. + +The extent of a few hundred feet afforded a good bird's eye view +of the scene. The old river-valley, shown by the scarp of the +rocks, must have presented gigantic features, and the height of +the trough-walls, at least a thousand feet, gives the Yellala a +certain beauty and grandeur. The site is apparently the highest +axis of the dividing ridge separating the maritime lowlands from +the inner plateau. Looking eastward the land smoothens, the dorsa +fall more gently towards the counter-slope, and there are none of +the "Morros" which we have traversed. + +With the members of the Congo Expedition, I was somewhat startled +by the contrast between the apparently shrunken volume of waters +and the vast breadth of the lower river; hence Professor Smith's +theory of underground caverns and communications, in fact of a +subterraneous river, a favourite hobby in those days. But there +is not a trace of limestone formation around, nor is there the +hollow echo which inevitably would result from such a tunnel. +Evidently the difference is to be accounted for by the rapidity +of the torrent, the effect of abnormal slope deceiving the eye. +At the Mosî-wa-tunya Falls the gigantic Zambeze, from a breadth +of a thousand yards suddenly plunges into a trough only forty- +five to sixty feet wide: the same is the case with the Brazilian +São Francisco, which, a mile wide above the Cachoeira de Paulo +Affonso, is choked to a minimum breadth of fifty-one feet. At the +Pongo (narrows) de Manseriche also, the Amazonas, "already a +noble river, is contracted at its narrowest part to a width of +only twenty-five toises, bounded on each margin by lofty +perpendicular cliffs, at the end of which the Andes are fairly +passed, and the river emerges on the great plain."[FN#31] Thus +the Yellala belongs to the class of obstructed rapids like those +of the Nile, compared with the unobstructed, of which a fine +specimen is the St. Lawrence. It reminded me strongly of the Búsa +(Boussa) described by Richard Lander, where the breadth of the +Niger is reduced to a stone-throw, and the stream is broken by +black rugged rocks arising from mid-channel. It is probably a +less marked feature than the Congo, for in June, after the +"Malka" or fourteen days of incessant rain, the author speaks of +whirlpools, not of a regular break. + +I thus make the distance of the Yellala from the mouth between +116 and 117 miles and the total fall 390 feet, of which about one +half (195) occurs in the sixty-four miles between Boma and the +Yellala: of this figure again 100 feet belong to the section of +five miles between the Vivi and the Great Rapids. The Zambeze, +according to Dr. Livingstone ("First Expedition," p. 284), has a +steeper declivity than some other great rivers, reaching even 7 +inches per mile. With 3 to 4 inches, the Ganges, the Amazonas, +and the Mississippi flow at the rate of three knots an hour in +the lowest season and five or six during the flood: what, then, +may be expected from the Nzadi? + +According to the people, beyond the small upper fall where +projections shut out the view, the channel smoothens for a short +space and carries canoes. Native travellers from Nkulu usually +take the mountain-path cutting across an easterly bend of the bed +to Banza Menzi, the Manzy of Tuckey's text and the Menzi Macooloo +of his map. It is situated on a level platform 9 miles north of +Nkulu, and they find the stream still violent. The second march +is to Banza Ninga, by the First Expedition called "Inga," an +indirect line of five hours = 15 miles. The third, of about the +same distance, makes Banza Mavunda where, 20 to 24 miles above +the Yellala, Tuckey found the river once more navigable, clear in +the middle and flowing at the rate of two miles an hour--a +retardation evidently caused by the rapids beyond: I have +remarked this effect in the Brazilian "Cachoeiras."[FN#32] Above +it the Nzadi widens, and canoeing is practicable with portages at +the two Sangallas. The southern feature, double like the Yellala, +shows an upper and a lower break, separated by two miles, the +rapids being formed as usual by sunken ledges of rock. Two days' +paddling lead to the northern or highest Sangalla, which +obstructs the stream for 22 miles: Tuckey (p. 184) makes his +Songo Sangalla contain three rapids; Prof. Smith, whose +topography is painfully vague, doubles the number, at the same +time he makes Sanga Jalala (p. 327) the "uppermost fall but one +and the highest." Finally, at Nsundi (on the map Soondy N'sanga), +which was reached on Sept. 9, a picturesque sandy cove at the +opening of a creek behind along projecting point, begins a lake- +like river, three miles broad, with fine open country on both +banks: the explorer describes it as "beautiful scenery equal to +anything on the banks of the Thames." + +Here the Nzadi is bounded by low limestone hills already showing +the alluvial basin of Central Africa; and the land is well +populated, because calcareous districts are fertile in the +tropics and provisions are plentiful. Prof. Smith (p. 336) was +"so much enraptured with the improved appearance of the country +and the magnificence of the river, that it was with the greatest +difficulty he was prevailed on to return." Of course, the coaster +middle-men report the people to be cannibals. + +From the Vivi Rapids to Nsundi along the windings of the bed is a +total of 115 miles, about the distance of Vivi to the sea; the +direct land march was 75 miles. Captain Tuckey heard nothing of +the Lumini River entering 43 leagues above the Yellala, and he +gives no professional opinion touching the navigability of the +total of six greater rapids which, to judge from what I saw, can +hardly offer any serious obstruction to the development of the +Nzadi. + +At Nkulu an intelligent native traveller whom I examined through +the interpreters, strongly advised the line of the southern bank: +five stages would lead to Nsundi, and the ten "kings" on the road +are not such "rapacious gentlemen" as our present hosts. A glance +at Tuckey's map shows that this southern line cuts across a long +westerly deflection of the bed. + +I had been warned when setting out that a shipful of goods would +not take me past Nkulu. This was soon confirmed. On the evening +after arrival I had directed my interpreter to sound the "bush- +kings" touching the expense of a march to Nsundi. They modestly +demanded 100 lbs. of beads, fifty kegs of powder, forty demijohns +of rum, twelve uniforms, ten burnuses, a few swords, and 200 +whole pieces of various expensive cloths, such as Costa Finas, +Riscados, and satin stripes,--briefly, about £300 for three days' +march. It suggested the modest demand made by King Adooley of +Badagry, from the brothers Lander. + +The air of Nkulu was a cordial; the aspect of the land suggested +that it is the threshold to a country singularly fertile and +delicious, in fact, the paradise which Bishop Berkeley (Gaudentio +di Lucca) placed in Central Africa. The heat of the lowlands had +disappeared,-- + + "The scorching ray + Here pierceth not, impregnate with disease." + +The thermometer, it is true, did not sink below 67° (F.), whilst +the "Expedition" (p. 118) had found it 60° in August, even at +Boma during the dewy nights. The lowest temperature of the water +was 75°, and the highest 79°, whereas at the mouth it is +sometimes 83°; Tuckey gives 76°-77°; 74° in the upper river above +the Falls, and 73° where there are limestone springs. The +oxydization of iron suddenly ceased; after a single day's drying, +the plants were ready for a journey to England, and meat which +wrill hardly keep one day in the lowlands is here eatable on the +fifth. + +Whilst the important subject of "dash" was being discussed I set +out in my hammock to visit a quitanda or market held hard by. As +we started, the women sang, + + "Lungwá u telemene ko + Mwanza Ko Yellala o kwenda." + +"The boat that arrives at the Mwanza (the River) the same shall +go up to the Yellala" (rapids). It is part of a chant which the +mothers of men now old taught them in childhood, and the sole +reminiscence of the Congo Expedition, whose double boats, the +Ajôjôs of the Brazil, struck their rude minds half a century ago. + +These quitandas are attended by people living a dozen miles off, +and they give names to the days, which consequently everywhere +vary. Thus at Boma Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday are +respectively called "Nkenge," "Sona," "Kandu," and "Konzo." This +style of dividing time, which is common throughout Pagan West +Africa, is commonly styled a week: thus the Abbé Proyart tells us +that the Loango week consists of four days, and that on the +fourth the men "rest" by hunting and going to market. Tuckey also +recognizes the "week of four days," opposed to the seven days' +week of the Gold Coast. + +After half an hour's run to the north-west my bearers, raising +loud shouts of "Alii! vai sempre!" dashed into the market-place +where about a hundred souls were assembled. The women rose in +terror from their baskets and piles of vendibles; some began +hastily to pack up, others threw themselves into the bush. Order +was soon restored by the interpreter; both sexes and all ages +crowded round me with hootings of wonder, and, when they had +stared their fill, allowed me to sit down under a kind of ficus, +not unlike the banyan-tree (Ficus Indica). Tuckey (p. 181) says +that this fig is planted in all market-places and is considered +sacred; his people got into trouble by piling their muskets +against one of them: I heard of nothing of the kind. The scanty +supplies--a few fowls, sun-dried fish, kola-nuts, beans, and red +peppers--were spread upon skins, or stored in well-worked +baskets, an art carried to perfection in Africa; even the Somali +Bedawin weave pots that will hold water. The small change was +represented by a medium which even Montesquieu would not set down +as a certain mark of civilization. The horse-shoe of Loggun +(Denham and Clapperton), the Fán fleam, the "small piece of iron +like an ace of spades on the upper Nile" (Baker), and the iron +money of the brachycephalic Nyam-nyams described and drawn by +Schwein furth (i. 279), here becomes a triangle or demi-square of +bast-cloth, about 5 inches of max. length, fringed, coloured like +a torchon after a month of kitchen use, and worth one-twentieth +of the dollar or fathom of cloth. These money-mats or coin-clouts +are known to old travellers as Macuitas and Libonges (in Angolan +Libangos). Carli and Merolla make them equivalent to brass money; +the former were grass-cloth a yard long, and ten = 100 reis; in +1694 they were changed at Angola for a small copper coin worth 2 +1/2 d., and the change caused a disturbance for which five +soldiers were shot. Silver was represented by "Intagas," thick +cottons the size of two large kerchiefs (=. Is. 6d.) and +"Folingas," finer sorts used for waist-cloths (=. 3s. 6d.); and +gold by Beirames (alii Biramis): Carli says the latter are coarse +Indian cottons 5 ells long and each = 200 reis; others describe +them as fine linen each piece worth 7s. 6d. to 8s. The bank-note +was the "Indian piece or Mulech, a young black about twenty years +of age, worth 20 Mil Keys (dollars) each." (Carli.) In the +Barbots' day each "coin-clout") was equivalent to 2d.; some were +unmarked, whilst others bore the Portuguese arms single or +double. The wilder Kru-men still keep up their "buyapart" (= 25 +cents), a cloth 4 inches square and thickly sewn over with +cowries. + +The only liquor was palm wine in huge calabashes. The smoking of +Lyamba (Bhang or Cannabis sativa) seems to become more common as +we advance. I did not find the plant growing, as did Dr. +Livingstone at Linyanti and amongst the Batoka ("First +Expedition," 198, 541). The pipe is the gourd of a baobab, which +here sometimes grows a foot and a half long; it is cleared, +filled with water and provided with a wooden tube fixed in the +upper part away from the mouth, and supporting a small "chillam" +or bowl of badly baked clay. The people when smoking affect the +bunched shoulders, the deep inhalation, and the loud and body- +shaking bark, which seems inseparable from the enjoyment of this +stimulant. I have used it for months together, and my conclusion +is, that mostly the cough is an affectation. Tobacco is smoked in +the usual heavy clay pipes, with long mouthpieces of soft wood, +quite as civilized as the best European. "Progress" seems unknown +to the pipe; the most advanced nations are somewhat behind the +barbarians, and in the matter of snuff the Tupi or Brazilian +savage has never been rivalled. + +The greater part of the vendors seemed to be women, of the buyers +men; there was more difference of appearance than in any European +fair, and the population about Nkulu seemed to be a very mixed +race. Some were ultra-negro, of the dead dull-black type, +prognathous and long-headed like apes; others were of the red +variety, with hair and eyes of a brownish tinge, and a few had +features which if whitewashed could hardly be distinguished from +Europeans. The tattoo was remarkable as amongst the tribes of the +lower Zambeze.[FN#33] There were waistcoats, epaulettes, braces +and cross-belts of huge welts, and raised polished lumps which +must have cost not a little suffering; the skin is pinched up +between the fingers and sawn across with a bluntish knife, the +deeper the better; various plants are used as styptics, and the +proper size of the cicatrice is maintained by constant pressure, +which makes the flesh protrude from the wound. The teeth were as +barbarously mutilated as the skin; these had all the incisors +sharp-tipped; those chipped a chevron-shaped hole in the two +upper or lower frontals, and not a few seemed to attempt +converting the whole denture into molars. The legs were +undeniably fine; even Hieland Mary's would hardly be admired +here. Whilst the brown mothers smoked and carried their babies, +the men bore guns adorned with brass tacks, or leaned upon their +short, straight, conical "spuds" and hoes, long-handled bits of +iron whose points, after African fashion, passed through the +wood. I nowhere saw the handsome carved spoons, the hafts and +knife-sheaths figured by the Congo Expedition. + +We left the quitanda with the same shouting and rushing which +accompanied my appearance. + + + + + + Chapter XV. + + Return to the Congo Mouth. + + + +In the evening there was a palaver. + +I need hardly say that my guide, after being paid to show me +Nsundi, never had the slightest intention to go beyond the +Yellala. Irritated by sleeping in the open air, and by the total +want of hospitality amongst the bushmen, he and his moleques had +sat apart all day, the picture of stubborn discontent, and + + "Not a man in the place + But had discontent written large in his face." + +I proposed to send back a party for rum, powder, and cloth to the +extent of £150, or half the demand, and my factotum, Selim, +behaved like a trump. Gidi Mavunga, quite beyond self-control, +sprang up, and declared that, if the Mundele would not follow +him, that obstinate person might remain behind. The normal +official deprecation, as usual, made him the more headstrong; he +rushed off and disappeared in the bush, followed by a part of his +slaves, the others crying aloud to him, "Wenda!"-- get out! +Seeing that the three linguisters did not move, he presently +returned, and after a furious address in Fiote began a Portuguese +tirade for my benefit. This white man had come to their country, +and, instead of buying captives, was bent upon enslaving their +Mfumos; but that "Branco" should suffer for his attempt; no +"Mukanda" or book (that is, letter) should go down stream; all +his goods belonged of right to his guide, and thus he would learn +to sit upon the heads of the noblesse, with much of the same +kind. + +There are times when the traveller either rises above or sinks to +the level of, or rather below, his party. I had been sitting +abstractedly, like the great quietist, Buddha, when the looks of +the assembly suggested an "address." This was at once delivered +in Portuguese, with a loud and angry voice. Gidi Mavunga, who had +been paid for Nsundi, not for the Yellala, had spoken like a +"small boy" (i.e., a chattel). I had no wish to sit upon other +men's heads, but no man should sit on mine. Englishmen did not +want slaves, nor would they allow others to want them, but they +would not be made slaves themselves. My goods were my own, and +King Nessala, not to speak of Mambuco Prata--the name told--had +made themselves responsible for me. Lastly, if the Senhor Gidi +Mafung wanted to quarrel, the contents of a Colt's six-shooter +were at his disposal. + +Such a tone would have made a European furious; it had a contrary +effect upon the African. Gidi Mavunga advanced from his mat, and +taking my hand placed it upon his head, declaring me his +"Mwenemputo." The linguisters then entered the circle, chanted +sundry speeches, made little dances, then bent their knuckles to +earth, much in the position of boys preparing to jump over their +own joined hands, dusted themselves, and clapped palms. Very +opportunely arrived a present from the king of fowls, dried fish +and plantains, which restored joy to the camp. "Mwenemputo," I +must explain, primarily meaning "the King of Portugal," is +applied in East Central Africa to a negro king and chiefs ("The +Lands of the Cazembe," p. 17). In Loango also it is the name of a +high native official, and, when used as in the text, it is +equivalent to Mfumo, chief or head of family. + +At night Gidi Mavunga came to our quarters and began to talk +sense. Knowing that my time was limited, he enlarged upon the +badness of the road and the too evident end of the travelling +season, when the great rains would altogether prevent fast +travel. Banza Ninga, the next stage, was distant two or three +marches, and neither shelter nor provisions were to be found on +the way. Here a canoe would carry us for a day (12 miles) to the +Sangala Rapids: then would come the third portage of two days (22 +miles) to Nsundi. My outfit at Banza Nokki was wholly +insufficient; the riverine races were no longer tractable as in +the days of his father, when white men first visited the land. My +best plan was to return to Boma at once, organize a party, and +march upon Congo Grande (S. Salvador); there I should find +whites, Portuguese, Englishmen and their "Kru-men" the term +generally applied on the southern coast to all native employés of +foreign traders. If determined upon bring "converted into black +man" I might join some trading party into the interior. As +regards the cloth and beads advanced by me for the journey to +Nsundi, a fair proportion would be returned at Banza Nokki. And +so saying the old fox managed to look as if he meant what he +said. + +All this, taken with many a grain, was reasonable. The edge of my +curiosity had been taken off by the Yellala, and nothing new +could be expected from the smaller formations up stream. Time +forbade me to linger at Banza Nkulu. The exorbitant demand had +evidently been made by express desire of Gidi Mavunga, and only a +fortnight's delay could have reduced it to normal dimensions. Yet +with leisure success was evident. All the difficulties of the +Nsundi road would have vanished when faced. The wild people +showed no feeling against foreigners, and the Nkulu linguisters +during their last visit begged me to return as soon as possible +and "no tell lie." I could only promise that their claims should +be laid before the public. Accordingly a report of this trip was +at once sent in to Her Majesty's Foreign Office, and a paper was +read before the British Association of September, 1864. + +Early on Thursday morning (Sept. 17) we began the down march. It +was a repetition of the up march, except that all were bent upon +rushing home, like asses to their stables; none of those posés, +or regular halts on the line of march, as practised by well- +trained voyageurs, are known to Congo-land. There was some reason +for the hurry, and travellers in these regions will do well to +remember it, or they may starve with abundance around them. The +kings and chiefs hold it their duty to entertain the outward +bound; but when cloth, beads, and rum have been exhausted, the +returning wanderer sits under a tree instead of entering the +banza, and it is only an exceptional householder who will send +him a few eggs or plantains. They "cut" you, as a rule, more +coolly than ever town man cut a continental acquaintance. +Finally, the self-imposed hardships of the down march break men's +spirits for further attempts, and their cupidity cannot +neutralize their natural indolence thus reinforced. + +We entered on the next afternoon Gidi Mavunga's village, where +the lieges received him with shouts and hand-clappings: at the +Papagayo's there was a dance which lasted through that night and +the next. I stayed three days at Chinguvu finishing my sketches, +but to have recovered anything from the guide would have required +three weeks. The old villain relaxed his vigilance over the +women, who for the first time were allowed to enter the doors +without supervision: Merolla treats of this stale trick, and +exclaims,-- + + "Ah pereat! didicit fallere si qua virum." + +I was reminded of the classical sentiment upon the Rio de S. +Francisco ("Highlands of the Brazil," ii. chap, xiv.), where, +amongst other sentiments, the boatmen severely denounce in song + + "Mulher que engana tropeiro." + +As a rule throughout West Africa, where even the wildest tribes +practise it, the "panel dodge" served, as Dupuis remarked, to +supply the slave-trade, and in places like Abeokuta it became a +nuisance: the least penalty to which it leads is the confiscation +of the Lothario's goods and chattels. Foiled in his benevolent +attempt, the covetous senior presently entered the hut, and began +unceremoniously to open a package of cloth which did not belong +to him. Selim cocked his revolver, and placed it handy, so the +goods were afterwards respected. + +At length, on Sept. 19, a piece of cloth (=48 yards) procured a +canoe. But calico and beads are not removed from an African +settlement without disturbance: my factotum has given a detailed +account of the scene.[FN#35] Gidi Mavunga so managed that the +porters, instead of proceeding straight to the stream, marched +upon Banza Nokki where his royal son was awaiting us. Worse +still, Nessudikira's royal mother was there, a large old virago, +who smoked like a steam-engine and who "swore awful." The +moleques were armed, but none liked proceeding to extremes; so, +after an unusually loud quarrel, we reached the river in three +hours, and at 9.45 A.M. we set out for Boma. + +The down voyage was charming. Instead of hugging the southern +bank, we raced at a swinging pace down mid-stream. A few showers +had wonderfully improved the aspect of the land, where + + "Every tree well from his fellow grew + With branches broad, laden with leaves new, + That springen out against the sunny sheen, + Some very red and some a glad light green;" + +and the first breath of spring gave life to the queer +antediluvian vegetation--calabash and cactus, palmyra, bombax, +and fern. An admirable mirage lifted the canoes which preceded us +clean out of the river, and looking down stream the water seemed +to flow up hill, as it does, according to Mrs.---, in the +aqueducts of Madeira. Although the tide began to flow up shortly +after 10 A.M., and the sea-breeze wafe unusually strong, we +covered the forty-five miles in 7 hrs. 15 m. Amidst shouts of +"Izakula Mundeh,"--white men cum agen!--we landed at Boma, and +found that the hospitable Sr. Pereira had waited dinner, to which +I applied myself most "wishedly." + +Once more in civilization, we prepared for a march upon S. +Salvador. + +No white man at Boma knew anything of the road to the old +Capital; but, as a letter had been received from it after three +days' march, there was evidently no difficulty. I wrote to Porto +da Lenha for an extra supply of "black money," which was +punctually forwarded; both Chico Furano and Nihama Chamvu +volunteered for the journey, and preparations were progressing as +rapidly as could be expected in these slow-moving lands, when +they were brought to the abruptest conclusion. On the 24th Sept. +a letter from the Commodore of the station informed me that I had +been appointed H. M.'s Commissioner to Dahome, and that, unless I +could at once sail in H.M.S. "Griffon," no other opportunity +would be found for some time. The only step left was to apply for +a canoe, and, after a kindly farewell to my excellent host, I +left Boma on the evening of Sept. 25. + +With a view of "doing" the mosquitoes, we ran down the Nshibul or +central arm of the Nzadi, and found none of the whirlpools +mentioned by the "Expedition" near Fetish Rock. The bright clear +night showed us silhouettes of dark holms, high and wooded to the +north, and southwards banks of papyrus outlying long straggling +lines of thin islands like a huge caterpillar. The canoe-men +attempted to land at one place, declaring that some king wanted +"dash," but we were now too strong for them: these fellows, if +allowed, will halt to speak every boat on the river. The wind +fell to a dead calm, and five hours and a half sufficed to cover +the thirty miles between Boma and Porto da Lenha. Here Mr. Scott +supplied me with a fine canoe and a fresh crew of seven paddles. + +The noon was grey and still as we left the Whydah of the south, +but at 2 P.M. the sea-breeze came up stiff and sudden, the tide +also began to flow; the river roared; the meeting of wind and +water produced what the Indus boatmen call a "lahar" (tide rip), +and the Thalweg became almost as rough as the Yellala. Our canoe +was literally + + "Laying her whole side on the sea, + As a leaping fish does." + +Unwilling to risk swamping my instruments, I put into the +northern bank, where our friend, the palhabote Espérance, passed +under a tricolour, and manned only by Laptots. As we waved a +signal to them, they replied with a straggling fire of musketry +to what they considered a treacherous move on the part of +plundering Musurungus. At sunset a lump of scirrhus before the +sun was so dense that its dark shadow formed a brush like the +trabes of a comet. This soon melted away, and a beautifully +diaphanous night tempted us to move towards the dreary funnel of +darkness which opened ahead. The clouds began to pour; again the +stream became rough, and the swift upper or surface current +meeting the cross-tide below represented an agitated "Race of +Portland." Wet and weary we reached Banana Point on Sunday, Sept. +27, 1863, fortunately not too "late for the mail," and, next day, +I was on board "Griffon," ready for Dahome and for my late host +King Gelele. + + + + + + Chapter XVI. + + The Slaver and the Missionary in the Congo River. + + + +In the preceding pages some details have been given concerning +domestic slavery upon the Congo River. Like polygamy, the system +of barbarous and semi-barbarous races, it must be held +provisional, but in neither case can we see any chance of present +end. Should the Moslem wave of conquest, in a moral as well as a +material form, sweep--and I am persuaded that it will sweep--from +North Africa across the equator, the effect will be only to +establish both these "patriarchal institutions" upon a stronger +and a more rational basis. + +All who believe in "progress" are socially anti-slavers, as we +all are politically Republicans. But between the two extremes, +between despotism, in which society is regimented like an army, +and liberty, where all men are theoretically free and equal, +there are infinite shades of solid rule and government which the +wisdom of nations adapts to their wants. The medium of +constitutional monarchy or hereditary presidentship recommends +itself under existing circumstances to the more advanced peoples, +and with good reason; we nowhere find a prevalence of those manly +virtues, disinterestedness and self-sacrifice to the +"respublica," which rendered the endurance of ancient republics +possible. Rome could hardly have ruled the world for centuries +had her merchants supplied Carthage with improved triremes or +furnished the Parthians with the latest style of weapons. We must +be wise and virtuous before we can hope to be good republicans, +and man in the mass is not yet "homo sapiens;" he is not wise, +and certainly he is not virtuous. + +The present state of Africa suggests two questions concerning the +abolition of the export slave-trade, which must be kept +essentially distinct from domestic servitude. The first is, "Does +the change benefit the negro?" Into this extensive subject I do +not propose to enter, contenting myself with recording a negative +answer. But upon the second, "Is the world ready for its +abolition?" I would offer a few remarks. They will be ungrateful +to that small but active faction which has laboured so long and +so hard to misinform the English public concerning Africa, and +which is as little fitted to teach anything about the African as +to legislate for Mongolian Tartary. It has prevailed for a time +to the great injury of the cause, and we cannot but see its +effects in almost every step taken by the Englishman, civilian or +soldier, who lands his British opinions and prejudices on the +West Coast, and who, utterly ignoring the fact that the African, +as far as his small interests are concerned, is one of the +clearest sighted of men, unhesitatingly puts forth addresses and +proclamations which he would not think of submitting to +Europeans. But I have faith in my countrymen. If there be any +nation that deserves to be looked upon as the arbiter of public +opinion in Europe, it is England proper, which, to the political +education of many generations, adds an innate sense of +moderation, of justice, and of fair play, and a suspicion of +extreme measures however theoretically perfect, which do not +exist elsewhere. Heinrich Heine expressed this idea after his +Maccabean fashion, "Ask the stupidest Englishman a question of +politics, and he will say something clever; ask the cleverest +Englishman a question of religion and he will say something +stupid." Hence the well-wishers of England can feel nothing but +regret when they find her clear and cold light of reason +obscured, as it has been, upon the negro question by the mists +and clouds of sentimental passion, and their first desire is to +see this weakness pass away. + + +I unhesitatingly assert--and all unprejudiced travellers will +agree with me--that the world still wants the black hand. +Enormous tropical regions yet await the clearing and the draining +operations by the lower races, which will fit them to become the +dwelling-place of civilized man. + +But slave-exportation is practically dead; we would not revive +it, nor indeed could we, the revival would be a new institution, +completely in disaccord with the spirit of the age. It is for us +to find something which shall take its place, and which shall +satisfy the just aspirations of those who see their industry and +energy neutralized by want of labour. I need hardly say that all +requirements would be met by negro-emigration; and that not only +Africa, but the world of the east as well as of the west, call +for some measure of the kind. The "cooly" from Hindostan may in +time become a valuable article, but it will be long before he can +be induced to emigrate in sufficient numbers: the Chinese will be +a mistake when the neglected resources of the mighty "Central +Empire," mineral and others, shall be ready to be developed, as +they soon must, under the supervision of Europeans. It remains +only for us to draw upon the great labour-bank of Negro-land. + +A bonâ fide emigration, a free engagé system, would be a boon to +Western and Inner Africa, where the tribes live in an almost +continual state of petty warfare. The anti-slavers and the +abolitionists, of course, represent this to be the effect of the +European trade in man's flesh and blood; but it prevails, and has +ever prevailed, and long will prevail, even amongst peoples which +have never sent a head of negro to the coast. And there is a +large class of men captured in battle, and a host of those +condemned to death by savage superstition, whose lives can be +saved only by their exportation, which, indeed, is the African +form of transportation. "We believe," says the Abbé Proyart +(1776), "that the father sells his son and the prince his +subjects; he only who has lived among them can know that it is +not even lawful for a man to sell his slave, if he be born in the +country, unless he have incurred that penalty by certain crimes +specified by law." + +It will be objected that any scheme of the kind must be so +involved in complicated difficulties that it cannot fail to +degenerate into the old export slave-trade. This I deny. +Admitting that such must at first be its tendency, I am persuaded +that the details can so be controlled as to secure the use +without the abuse. Women and children, for instance, should never +be allowed on board ship, unless accompanying husbands and +parents. Those who speak some words of a foreign tongue, English, +French, Spanish, or Portuguese, and on the eastern coast +Hindostani, might lead the way, to be followed in due time by the +wilder races. Probably the best ground for the trial would be the +Island of Zanzibar, where we can completely control its +operations. And what should lend us patience and courage to meet +and to beat down all difficulties is the consideration that +success will be the sole possible means, independent of El Islam, +of civilizing, or rather of humanizing, the Dark Continent. The +excellent Abbé Proyart begins his "History of Loango" with the +wise and memorable words: "Touching the Africans, these people +have vices,--what people is exempt from vice? But, were they even +more wicked and more vicious, they would be so much the more +entitled to the commiseration and good offices of their fellow- +men, and, should the missionary despair of making them +Christians, men ought still to endeavour to make them men." + +The "Free Emigration" schemes hitherto attempted have been mere +snares and delusions; chiefly, I hold, because the age was not +ripe for them. In 1844 three agencies were established at Sierra +Leone for supplying hands to British Guiana, Trinidad and +Jamaica. As wages they offered per diem $0.75 to $1, with leave +to return at pleasure; the "liberated" preferred, however, to +live upon sixpence at home, suspecting that the bait was intended +as a lure to captivity. Nor were their fears lulled by the fact +that the agents shipped amongst 250 "volunteers" some seventy-six +wild slaves, fresh captives, who were not allowed to communicate +with their fellow-countrymen ashore. In 1850 certain +correspondents from Liverpool inquired of King "Eyo Honesty" if +he could provide for service in the West Indies 10,000 men, +women, and children, as the "quotum from the Old Calabar River," +which would mean 100,000 from the West Coast. "He be all same ole +slave-trade," very justly remarked that knowing potentate: he +added, that he would respect the Suppression Treaty with England, +and that he personally preferred palm-oil, but that all the +"Calabar gentlemen" and the neighbouring kings would be glad to +supply slaves at a fixed price, four boxes of brass and copper +rods. + +Followed, in 1852-3, the gigantic scheme of MM. Régis et Cie, +which began operations upon the East as well as the West Coast of +Africa. Having studied it on both sides of the continent, I could +not help forming the worst opinion of the attempt. The agents +never spoke of it except as a slave- trade; the facetiæ touching +"achat" and "rachat" were highly suited to African taste, and I +have often heard them declare before the people that "captives" +are the only articles which can profitably be exported from the +coasts--in fact, as old Caspar Barlé said, "precipuæ merces ipsi +Ethiopes sunt." I subjoin to this chapter the form of French +passport; it will serve, when a bonâ fide emigration shall be +attempted, to show "how not to do it." Happily this "emigration" +has come to an end": M. Régis, seeing no results, gave orders to +sell off all the goods in his factories, and to retain only one +clerk as housekeeper. The ouvriers libres deserted and fled in +all directions, for fear of being "put in a cannibal pot" and +being eaten by the white anthropophagi. + +The history of missionary enterprise in the Congo regions is not +less interesting than the slave-trade. The first missioners +sailed in December, 1490, under Goncalo de Sousa; of the three +one were killed by the heat, and another having made himself +"Chaplain to the Congolan Army," by a "Giaghi" chief. The seed +sown by these friars was cultivated by twelve Franciscans of the +Order of Observants. The Right Reverend Fathers of the Company +appeared in 1560 with the Conquistador Paulo Dias de Novaes. +According to Lopez de Lima, who seems to endorse the saying, "Si +cum Jesuitis, non cum Jesu itis," they worried one captain- +general to death, and they attempted to found in Congo-land +another Uruguay or Paraguay. But here they totally failed, and, +as yet indeed, they have not carried out, either in East or West +Africa, the celebrated boast popularly attributed to their +general, Borgia (1572): + + "We shall come in like the lambs; + We shall be driven out like the dogs, + We shall rush like the wolves; + We shall be icnewed like the eagles." + +The baptism of D. Alvaro I. (1491), the founding of the cathedral +at S. Salvador (1534), the appointment of the Bishop and Chapter, +and their transfer to São Paulo de Loanda (1627), have already +been alluded to. + +According to Fathers Carli and Merolla, Pope Alexander VII. sent +twelve to fifteen Capuchins and apostolic missioners, who +baptized the King and Queen of Congo and the Count of Sonho. +Between A.D. 1490 and 1690 were the palmy days of Christianity in +Congo-land, and for two centuries it was more or less the state +religion. After this great effort missionary zeal seems to have +waxed cold, and disestablishment resulted, as happens in such +cases, from unbelief within and violent assaults from without. +Under the attacks of the Dutch and French the Church seems to +have lost ground during the eighteenth century. In A.D. 1682 the +number of propagandists in Sonho fell from a father superior and +six missioners to two (Merolla). In A.D. 1700 James Barbot found +at Sonho only two Portuguese friars of the Order of Bernardins. +In A.D. 1768 the Loango Mission was established, and in A.D. 1777 +the fathers were followed by four Italian priests sent by the +Propaganda for the purpose of re-christianizing Sonho. Embarking +at La Rochelle they entered the Nzadi, where one died of poison, +and the survivors escaped only by stratagem. Christianity fell +before the old heathenism, and in 1814 we find the King of Congo, +D. Garcia V., complaining to His Most Faithful Majesty that +missioners were sadly wanted. Captain Tuckey's "Expedition" (A.D. +1816) well sets forth the spiritual destitution of the land. He +tells us that three years before his arrival some missionaries +had been murdered by the Sohnese; the only specimen he met was an +ignorant half-caste with a diploma from the Capuchins of Loanda, +and a wife plus five concubines. In 1863 I found that all traces +of Christianity had disappeared. + +These reverends--who were allowed to dispense with any +"irregularity" except bigamy or wilful murder, and "to read +forbidden books except Machiavel,"--took the title of Nganga +Mfumo[FN#35]--Lord Medicine-man. In the fulness of early zeal +they built at S. Salvador the cathedral of Santa Cruz, a Jesuit +College, a Capuchin convent, the residence of the father +superior, maintained by the King of Portugal; a religious house +for the Franciscans, an establishment for the Bishop and his +Chapter, and half-a-dozen stone churches. All these edifices have +long been in ruins. + +Father Cavazzi da Monte Cuccoli, Denis de Carli, and Merolla, +themselves missioners, have left us ample accounts of the +ecclesiastical rule which, during its short tenure of office, +bore a remarkable family resemblance to that of the Jesuit +missions in South America. The religious despotism was complete, +a tyranny grossly aggravated by the credulity, the bigotry, and +the superstition,--I will not say of the age, because such things +are of all ages, but of the imperfect education which the age +afforded. There was no improvement, but rather a deterioration +from the days of Pliny. One father tells the converts that comets +forbode ill to the world. Another describes a bird not much +unlike a sparrow, at first sight it seems wholly black, but upon +a nearer view it looks blue; the excellency of its song is that +it harmoniously and articulately pronounces the name of Jesus +Christ. A third remarks, "they (the heathen) are excited by the +heavens forming a cross under the zone; they are excited by the +mountains which have the cross carved on them, without knowing by +whom; they are excited by the earth which draws the crucifix in +its fruit called Nicefo." Yet all these things are of little +force to move the hearts of those Gentiles who scoffingly cry, +"When we are sick, forsooth, the wood of this cross will cure +us!" Another father, resolving to denounce certain heathen +practices, placed on the Feast of Purification an image of the +Virgin in relievo upon the altar, and "with a dagger struck +through her breast on which the blood followed:" like Mark +Antony, he "improved the occasion," and sent home the fathers of +families to thrash their wives and daughters who were shut up in +the "paint houses." It is gravely related how a hungry friar +dines copiously on fish with an angel; how another was saved by +the "father of miracles, the glorious Saint Anthony of Padua," +whom another priest, taking as his patron, sees before his +hammock. A woman, bearing a child in her arms and supposed to be +the Virgin, attends the Portuguese army, and she again appears in +the shape of a "beautiful beggar." The miraculous resurrection of +a boiled cock is gravely chronicled. A certain man lived 380 +years "at the intercession of Saint Francis d'Assise." Of course, +the missioners saw water-monsters in the Congo River. A child +"came from his mother's womb with a beard and all his teeth, +perhaps to show he was born into the world grown old in vice." A +certain scoffer "being one day to pass a river with two +companions, was visibly taken up by an invisible hand into the +air. One of his companions, going to take hold of him by the +feet, had such a cuff given him that he fell down in the boat, +and the offender was seen no more." Father Merolla talks of a +breed in the Cabo Verde Islands "between bulls and she-asses, +which they compassed by binding a cow's hide upon the latter:" it +would be worth inquiring if this was ever attempted, and it might +add to our traditions about the "Jumart." And the tale of the +elephant-hunters deceiving the animals by anointing themselves +with their droppings deserves investigation. Wounds of poisoned +arrows are healed by that which produced them. A woman's milk +cures the venomous foam which cobras spit into the eyes. A snake +as big as a beam kills and consumes men with its look. An "ill +liver," reprimanded by his father for vicious inclinations, fires +a pistol at him; the rebound of the bullet from the paternal +forehead, which remains whole, severely wounds the would-be +parricide: the ablest surgeons cannot heal the hurt, and the +flesh ever continues to be sore and raw upon the forehead, acting +like the brand of Cain. + +It is said that two of a trade never agree, and accordingly we +find the hottest wrath of the missioners vented upon their rival +brethren, the Ngangas or medicine-men in Africa, and the Pages or +Tupi doctors in South America. The priestly presence deprives an +idol of all its powers, the sacerdotal power annihilates all +charms and devices, "thereby showing that the performances of +Christ's ministers are always above those of the devil's." These +"Scinghili," or "Gods of the Earth" (magicians), can sink boats, +be ferried over rivers by crocodiles, and "converse with tigers, +serpents, lions and other wild animals." The "great ugly wizards" +are "sent martyrs to the devil" on all possible occasions. One +father soundly belabours one of these "wicked Magi" with the cord +of his order, invoking all the while the aid of Saint Michael and +the rest of the saints: he enters the "hellish tabernacle, arming +himself frequently with the sign of the cross," but he retreats +for fear of a mischief from the "poor deluded pagans,"--showing +that he is, after all, but an "unbelieving Thomas." On the other +hand, the wizards solidly revenged themselves by killing and +eating Father Philip da Salesia. And the deluded ones must have +found some difficulty in discovering the superiority of exotic +over indigenous superstitions. When there is a calm at sea the +sailors stick their patron against the mast, and kneeling before +him say, "Saint Antony, our countryman, you shall be pleased to +stand there, till you have given us a fair wind to continue our +voyage!" A certain bishop of Congo makes the sign of the cross +upon a "banyan-tree," whereupon it immediately died, like the +fig-tree cursed by our-Saviour. A ship is "sunk in a trice" for +not having a chaplain on board her. The missioners strongly +recommend medals, relics, Agni-Dei, and palm-leaves consecrated +on Palm Sundays. They rage furiously against and they flog those +who wear "wizards' mats," against magic cords fastened round +young children as amulets, and against the teeth and bones of +animals, and cloth made from the rind of certain trees carried as +preservatives from disease and supernatural influences: even +banners in burial-places are "superstitious and blamable." They +claim the power of stopping rain by cursing the air, and of +producing it by prayer, and by "a devout procession to Our Lady +of Pinda," a belief truly worthy of the Nganga; and a fast ship +is stranded that "men may learn to honour holidays better." When +the magicians swear falsely they either burst like Judas or +languish and die--"a warning to be more cautious how they jest +with God." An old hag, grumbling after a brutish manner, proceeds +to bewitch a good father to death by digging a hole and planting +a certain herb. The ecclesiastic resolved to defeat her object by +not standing long in one place. He remembers the saying of the +wise man, "Mulier nequam plaga mortis;" and at last by ordering +her off in the name of the Blessed Trinity and the Holy Virgin, +"withal gently blowing towards her," she all of a sudden giving +three leaps, and howling thrice, flies away in a trice. The +Bolungo or Chilumbo oath or ordeal is, of course, a "hellish +ceremony." Demons play as active a part in Africa as in China. +The Portuguese nuncio permits the people in their simplicity to +light candles before and to worship the so-called "Bull of the +Blessed Sacrament," that by which Urban VIII. allowed the Congo +kings to be crowned after the Catholic manner by the Capuchins, +because the paper bears the "venerable effigies." + +Priests may be good servants, but they are, mundanely speaking, +bad masters. The ecclesiastical tyranny exercised upon the people +from the highest to the lowest goes far to account for the +extinction of Christianity in the country where so much was done +to spread it. The kings of Congoland, who "tread on the lion in +the kingdom of their mothers" must abjectly address their +spiritual lords. "I conjure you, prostrate at your holy feet, to +hearken to my words." Whilst the friars talk of "that meekness +which becomes a missioner," their unwise and unwarrantable +interference extends to the Count of Sonho himself; whose +election was not valid unless published in the church, owning +withal that, "though a Black, he is an absolute Prince; and not +unworthy of a Crown, though he were even in Italy, considering +the number of his Servants and the extent of his Dominions." They +issue eight ordinances or "spiritual memorandums" degrading +governors of cities and provinces who are not properly married, +who neglect mass, or who do not keep saints' festivals. Flogging +seems to have been the punishment of all infractions of +discipline, for those who used "magic guards" to their fields +instead of "setting the sign of the Cross;" and for all who did +not teach their children "to repeat, so many times a day, the +Rosary or the Crown, in honour of the Blessed Virgin, to fast on +Saturdays, to eat no flesh on Wednesdays, and such things used +among Christians." One of the Mwanis (governors) refuses to grub +up and level with his own hands a certain grove where the +"hellish trade" (magic) was practised; he is commanded to +discipline himself in the church during the whole time of +celebrating mass. If the governor is negligent in warning the +people that a missioner has arrived, "he will receive a deserved +punishment, for we make it our business to get such a person +removed from his employment, even within his year,"--a system of +temporal penalties affixed to spiritual lâches not unknown +elsewhere. The following anecdote will show the style of reproof. +Father Benedict da Belvedere, a Neapolitan who had preached at +Rome and was likewise confessor to the nuns, heard the chief +elector, one of the principal nobles, asking the heretical +question, "Are we not all to be saved by baptism?" A "sound box +on the ear" was the reply, and it led to a tumult. The head of +the mission sent for the offended dignitary, and offered him +absolution if he would sincerely recant his words and beg pardon +of the churchman militant. The answer was, "That would be +pleasant indeed; he was the aggressor, yet I must make the +excuse! Must I receive a blow, and, notwithstanding, be thought +to have done wrong?" But the peace-maker explained that the blow +was given not to offend, but to defend from hearkening to +heresies; that it was administered, moreover, out of paternal +affection by a spiritual father, whom it did not mis-become, to a +son who was not dishonoured by receiving it. The unfortunate +elector not only suffered in the ear, but was also obliged to +make an abject apology, and to kiss the offender's feet before he +was re-admitted to communion. At Maopongo the priests lost favour +with the court and the women by whipping the queen, and, by the +same process they abated the superhuman pretensions of the +blacksmith. + +When the chiefs and princes were so treated, what could the +subjects expect? The smallest ecclesiastical faults were punished +with fining and a Talmudic flogging, and for disobedience, a man +was sent "bound to Brazil, a thing they are more than ordinarily +afraid of." A man taking to wife, after the Mosaic law, a woman +left in widow-hood by his kinsman, is severely scourged, and the +same happens to a man who marries his cousin, besides being +deprived of a profitable employment. Every city and town in Sonho +had a square with a central cross, where those who had not +satisfied the Easter command or who died unconfessed were buried +without privilege of clergy. The missioners insist upon their +privilege of travelling free of expense, and make a barefaced use +of the corvée. The following is the tone of a mild address to the +laity: "Some among you are like your own maccacos or monkeys +amongst us who, keeping possession of anything they have stolen, +will sooner suffer themselves to be taken and killed, than to let +go their prey. So impure swine wallow in their filth and care not +to be cleansed." + +A perpetual source of trouble was of course the slave-trade: +negroes being the staple of the land, and ivory the other and +minor item, the great profits could not fail to render it the +subject of contention. The reasons why the Portuguese never +succeeded in making themselves masters of Sonho are reduced by +the missioner annalists to three. Firstly, the opposition of the +people caused by fear; secondly, the objections of the Sonhese to +buying arms and ammunition; and, thirdly, the small price paid by +the Portuguese for "captives." The "Most Reverend Cardinal Cibo," +writing in the name of the Sacred College, complained that the +"pernicious and abominable abuse of slave-selling" was carried on +under the eyes of the missioners, and peremptorily ordered them +to remedy the evil. Finding this practically impossible, the holy +men salved their consciences by ordering their flocks not to +supply negroes to the heretical Hollanders and English, "whose +religion is so very contrary to ours," but to the Portuguese, who +would "withdraw the poor souls out of the power of Lucifer." One +father goes so far, in his fear of heretical influences, as to +remunerate by the gift of a slave the dealer Ferdinando Gomez, +who had supplied him with "a flask of wine for the sacrament and +some other small things," yet he owns F. Gomez to be a rogue. + +As the Portuguese would not pay high prices like the heretics, +disturbances resulted, and these were put down by the desperate +expedient of shutting the church-doors--a suicidal act not yet +quite obsolete. Whereupon the Count of Sonho, we are told, +"changed his countenance almost from black to yellow," and +complained to the bishop at Loanda that the sacraments were not +administered: the appeal was in vain, and, worse, an extra aid +was sent to the truculent churchmen. Happily for them, the small- +pox broke out, and the ruler was persuaded by his subjects to do +the required penance. Appearing at the convent, unattended, with +a large rope round his neck, clad in sackcloth, crowned with +thorns, unshod, and carrying a crucifix, he knelt down and kissed +the feet of the priest, who said to him, "If thou hast sinned +like David, imitate him likewise in thy repentance!" + +The schismatics caused abundant trouble Captain Cornelius Clas +"went about sowing heretical tares amidst the true corn of the +Gospel;" amongst other damnable doctrines and subtleties, this +nautical and volunteer theologian persuaded the blacks, whom he +knew to be desirous of greater liberty in such matters, that +baptism is the only sacrament necessary to salvation, because it +takes away original sin, as the blood of the Saviour actual sin. +He furthermore (impudently) disowned the real presence in the +consecrated Host; he invoked Saint Anthony, although his tribe +generally denies that praying to saints can be of any use to man; +and he declared that priests should preach certain doctrines +(which, by the way, were perniciously heretical). Thus in a +single hour he so prevailed upon those miserable negroes that +their hearts became quite as black as their faces. An especially +offensive practice of the Hollanders, in the eyes of the good +shepherds, was that of asking the feminine sheep for a whiff of +tobacco--it being a country custom to consider the taking a pipe +from a woman's mouth a "probable earnest of future favours." When +an English ship entered the river, the priests forbade by +manifesto the sale of slaves to the captain, he being a Briton, +ergò a heretic, despite the Duke of York. The Count of Sonho +disobeyed, and was excommunicated accordingly: he took his +punishment with much patience, although upon occasions of reproof +he would fly into passions and disdains; he was reconciled only +after obliging 400 couples that lived in concubinage to lawful +wedlock, and thus a number of "strayed souls was reduced to +matrimony." + +We can hardly wonder that, under such discipline, a large +ecclesiastical body was necessary to "maintain the country in its +due obedience to the Christian faith," and that, despite their +charity in alms and their learning, no permanent footing was +possible for the strangers. Nor can we be astonished that the +good fathers so frequently complain of being poisoned. On one +occasion a batch of six was thus treated near Bamba. In this +matter perhaps they were somewhat fanciful, as the white man in +India is disposed to be. One of them, for instance cured himself +with a "fruit called a lemon" and an elk-hoof, from what he took +to be poison, but what was possibly the effect of too much pease +and pullet broth. In "O Muata Cazembe "(pp. 65-66), we find that +the Asiatic Portuguese attach great value to the hoof of the +Nhumbo (A. gnu), they call it "unha de grãbesta," and use it even +in the gotta-coral (epilepsy). + +And yet many of these ecclesiastics, whom Lopez de Lima justly +terms "fabulistas," were industrious and sensible men, where +religion was not concerned. They carefully studied the country, +its "situation, possessions, habitations, and clothing." They +formed always outside their faith the justest estimate of their +black fellow-creatures. I cannot too often repeat Father +Merolla's dictum, "The reader may perceive that the negroes are +both a malicious and subtle people that spend the most part of +their time in circumventing and deceiving." + +Nor has spiritual despotism been confined to the Catholic +missions in West Africa: certain John Knoxes in the Old Calabar +River have repeated, especially in the case of the king "young +Eyo," whom they excluded from communion, all the abuses and the +errors of judgment of the seventeenth century with the +modifications of the nineteenth. And we must not readily endorse +Dr. Livingstone's professional opinion. "In view of the desolate +condition of this fine missionary field, it is more than probable +that the presence of a few Protestants would soon provoke the +priests, if not to love, to good works." Such is not the history +of our propagandism about the Cape of Good Hope. Dr. Gustav +Fritsch ("The Natives of South Africa," 1872), thus speaks of the +missionary Livingstone, who must not be confounded with the great +explorer Livingstone: "A man who is borne onward by religious +enthusiasm and a glowing ambition, without our being able to say +which of these two levers works more powerfully in his soul. +Certain it is that he endured more labours and overcame more +geographical difficulties than any other African traveller either +before or after him; yet it is also sure that, on account of the +defective natural-historical education of the author, and the +indiscreet partisanship for the natives against the settlers, his +works have spread many false views concerning South Africa." +This, I doubt not, will be the verdict of posterity. See +"Anthropologia," in which are included the Proceedings of the +London Anthropological Society (inaugurated 22 January, 1873. No. +1, October, 1873. London: Baillière, Tindall, and Co.) The Review +(pp. 89-102), bears the well-known initials J. B. D., and it is +not saying too much that no man in England is so well fitted as +Dr. Davis to write it. I quote these passages without any feeling +of disrespect for the memory of the great African explorer. Truth +is a higher duty even than generous appreciation of a heroic +name, and the time will come when Negrophilism must succumb to +Fact. + + + + + + Chapter XVII. + + Concluding Remarks. + + + +I have thus attempted to trace a picture of the Congo River in +the latter days of the slave-trade, and of its lineal descendant, +"L'Immigration Africaine." The people at large are satisfied, and +the main supporters of the traffic--the chiefs, the "medicine- +men," and the white traders--have at length been powerless to +arrest its destruction. + +And here we may quote certain words of wisdom from the "Congo +Expedition" in 1816: "It is not to be expected that the effects +of abolition will be immediately perceptible; on the contrary, it +will probably require more than one generation to become +apparent: for effects, which have been the consequence of a +practice of three centuries, will certainly continue long after +the cause is removed." The allusion in the sentence which I have +italicized, is of course, to the American exportation--domestic +slavery must date from the earliest ages. These sensible remarks +conclude with advocating "colonization in the cause of +civilization;" a process which at present cannot be too strongly +deprecated. + +That the Nzadi is capable of supplying something better than +slaves may be shown by a list of what its banks produce. Merolla +says in 1682: "Cotton here is to be gathered in great abundance, +and the shrubs it grows on are so prolific, that they never +almost leave sprouting." Captain Tuckey ("Narrative," p. 120) +declares "the only vegetable production at Boma of any +consequence in commerce is cotton, which grows wild most +luxuriantly, but the natives have ceased to gather it since the +English have left off trading to the river," I will not advocate +tobacco, cotton and sugar; they are indigenous, it is true, but +their cultivation is hardly fitted to the African in Africa. +Copper in small quantities has been brought from the interior, +but the mineral resources of the wide inland regions are wholly +unknown. If reports concerning mines on the plateau be +trustworthy, there will be a rush of white hands, which must at +once change, and radically change, all the conditions of the +riverine country. Wax might be supplied in large quantities; the +natives, however, have not yet learnt to hive their bees. Ivory +was so despised by the slave-trade, that it was sent from the +upper Congo to Mayumba and the other exporting harbours; demand +would certainly produce a small but regular supply. + +The two staples of commerce are now represented by palm-oil, +which can be produced in quantities over the lowlands upon the +whole river delta, and along the banks from the mouth to Boma, a +distance of at least fifty direct miles. The second, and the more +important, is the arachis, or ground-nut, which flourishes +throughout the highlands of the interior, and which, at the time +of my visit, was beginning to pay. As the experience of some +thirty years on different parts of the West Coast has proved, +both these articles are highly adapted to the peculiarities of +the negro cultivator; they require little labour, and they +command a ready, a regular, and a constant sale. + +When time shall be ripe for a bonâ fide emigration, the position +of Boma, at the head of the delta, a charming station, with +healthy air and delicious climate, points it out as the head- +quarters. Houses can be built for nominal sums, the neighbouring +hills offer a sanatorium, and due attention to diet and clothing +will secure the white man from the inevitable sufferings that +result from living near the lower course. + +With respect to the exploration of the upper stream, these pages, +compared with the records of the "First Congo Expedition," will +show the many changes which time has brought with it, and will +suggest the steps most likely to forward the traveller's views. +At some period to come explorers will follow the line chosen by +the unfortunate Tuckey; but the effects of the slave-trade must +have passed away before that march can be made without much +obstruction. When Lieutenant Grandy did me the honour of asking +my advice, I suggested that he might avoid great delay and +excessive outlay by "turning" the obstacle and by engaging +"Cabindas" instead of Sierra Leone men. At the Royal Geographical +Society (Dec. 14th, 1874) he thus recorded his decision: "For the +guidance of future travellers in the Congo country, I would +suggest that all the carriers be engaged at Sierra Leone, where +any number can be obtained for 1s. 3d. a day. From my experience +of them I can safely say they will be found to answer every +requirement, and the employment of them would render an +expedition entirely independent of the natives, who, by their +cowardice and constant desertion, entailed upon us such heavy +expenses and serious delays. My conviction, after nearly four +years of travel upon the West African coast, is this: if Sierra +Leone men be used, they must be mixed with Cabindas and with +Congoese "carregadores," registered in presence of the Portuguese +authorities at S. Paulo de Loanda. + +I conclude with the hope that the great Nzadi, one of the +noblest, and still the least known of the four principal African +arteries, will no longer be permitted to flow through the White +Blot, a region unexplored and blank to geography as at the time +of its creation, and that my labours may contribute something, +however small, to clear the way for the more fortunate explorer. + + + + + Appendix + + + I. + + METEORLOGICAL + + + +Instruments used for altitudes:-- + Pocket aneroid, corrected +0.55, "R.G.S" + Casella's Alpine Sympiesometer, corrected to 67° (F.). + +N.B.-- Returning to Fernando Po, found that part of the liquid has lodged in upper + bulb, and therefore corrected index error by standard aneroid 1.15 (Symp. = + 29.258, and standard, 30.400). + +Observations at the Congo mouth in February, 1863 (from log of H.M.S. "Griffon"). + + Thermometer Barometer Winds Place +Engine in sea. Force & Direction +Room. A.M. P.M. + + +86° 76° 29.90 (1) S.E. (1) N.N.W. Loanda. +92° 77° 29.92 (1) S.W. (2) W.N.W. En route to Congo. +108° 76° 29.90 (1) S. (3) S.S.W. En route to Congo. +86° 78° 29.90 (2) S. (3) W. En route to Congo. +88° 78° 29.90 (2) S.W. (2) S.S.W. En route to Congo. +94° 80° 29.90 (2) S.E. (2) S.W. En route to Congo. +90° 83° 29.90 (2) S. (2-3)S. Congo. +90° 80° 29.90 (0) Calm (1) W. Congo. + + + +(Signed) F. F. Flynne, + Assistant-Surgeon in Charge. + + + + + + + + +Place and Date. Time of Day. Thermometer. Symp. Remarks. + +9th September 6 a.m. 65° 28.00 cor. 29.12 Cold morning, light wind from N.N.E., + Banza nokki 9 a.m. 72° 27.70 cor. 28.82 threatened rain, 8 a.m.; noon misty, +on hills above Noon. 78° 27.90 cor. 29.02 day hazy; 3 p.m., sun hot, wind cooler +river 3 p.m. 80.5° 27.85 cor. 28.97 from west; evening, stiff sea-breeze, + 6 p.m. 72° 27.90 cor. 29.02 people complain of cold; night, heavy + dew. + +10th Sept. 6 a.m. 67° 27.90 cor. 29.02 Misty morning, warm at 9 a.m., wind; noon, + Same place, 9 a.m. 75° 27.75 cor. 28.87 hot sun, high sea-breeze; 3 p.m., hot +Nokki. Noon. 83° 27.85 cor. 28.97 sun, cool west wind; cloudy evening; + 3 p.m. 85° 27.75 cor. 28.87 windy night, dew cold and heavy. + 6 p.m. 74° 27.85 cor. 28.97 + Altitude of Nokki above sea, 1,430 feet. + +11th Sept. 9 a.m. 77° 27.70 cor. 28.82 Misty morning, warm but clouding over; + Banza Noon. 87° 27.55 cor. 28.67 at noon high sea-breeze, glare and hot +Chingufu 3 p.m. 83° 27.45 cor. 28.57 sun, when clouds break 97° in sun, +above Nokki; 6 p.m. 73° 27.50 cor. 28.62 2 p.m.; 3 p.m., high sea-breeze up +see also 18th river; 6 p.m., cold sea-breeze, cloudy +and 19th Sept. sky. + Altitude of Chingufu, 1,703 feet. + + Chingufu + +12th Sept. 6 a.m. 65° 27.70 cor. 28.82 Clear fine morning; high west wind + First observation Nekolo. at 6 a.m.; pocket aneroid 29.00 + Chingufu, 9 a.m. 76° 28.50 cor. 29.62 Shady verandah facing to west; at +others at Nekolo Noon. 84° 28.35 cor. 29.47 noon aneroid 30.05; 3 p.m., hot +lower down & near 3 p.m. 85° 28.40 cor. 29.52 sun, westerly breeze, few clouds; +river. 6 p.m. 77° 28.30 cor. 29.42 6 p.m., very clear, east wind + strong; no dew at night. + + Negolo Nkulu. +13th Sept. 6 a.m. 70° 28.45 cor. 29.57 Close cloudy morning; 9 a.m., + Negolo and near 9 a.m. 77° 28.50 cor. 29.62 alternately clear and cloudy, + Congo River. Noon. 90° 28.45 cor. 29.57 glare, no wind; noon bright and + sultry, no clouds; 3 p.m., in shady + cove 10 feet above river; rain at + 5.30 p.m., lasted two hours; + dispersed by westerly breeze. + Cove near river. + 3 p.m. 94° 29.10 cor. 30.22 + Height of Negolo, 828 feet. + + Left bank. +14th Sept 6 a.m. 74° 29.30 cor 30.50 Dull, warm, and cloudy. + Right bank. +Banza Vivi on 9 a.m. 84° 29.35 cor. 30.57 Aneroid 30.60, dull day. + hills above right Noon. 80° 28.95 cor. 30.07 Anerodi 30.10 dull day, very little + bank. 3 p.m. 84° 28.35 cor. 29.47 breeze, village shut in, clouds + 6 p.m. 79° 28.85 cor. 29.97 from west + + Banza Vivi. +15th Sept. 6 a.m. 74° 29.15 cor. 30.25 Thick drizzle from west, no wind. + At Banza Simbo, half way up Vivi range, aneroid 29.42. +Banza Nkulu Noon 78° 28.10 cor. 29.22 Under tree facing north; puffs of + above rapids. west wind, threatened rain, none + came. + 6 p.m. 75° 28.10 cor. 29.22 In veranda facing north-east; clear + night, heavy dew. + + Banza Nkulu. +16th Sept. 6 a.m. 69° 28.20 cor. 29.32 Grass wet, heavy dew, rain + threatened, aneroid 29.50. + 100 feet above rapids. + 7.30 a.m. 73° 29.25 cor. 30.37 Aneroid 30.55. +Banza Nkulu again Noon. 80° 28.10 cor. 29.22 Aneroid 29.55, dull, cloudy, rain + threatened. + 3 p.m. 75° 28.00 cor. 29.12 Dull day, clearer towards evening, + 6 p.m. 75° 28.00 cor. 29.12 very heavy dew. + Altitude of Nkulu, 1212 feet. + Altitude of Yellala Rapids, 390 feet. + + Nkulu. +17th Sept. 5.30 a.m. 67° 28.15 cor. 29.27 Grey, cool; threatens sunny day. + Right bank of river. + 9.20 a.m. 77° 29.30 cor. 30.42 Cool west wind. + In canoe on river below Little Rapids. + 10.50 a.m. 81° 20.20 cor. 30.32 Aneroid 30.57(59) + Left bank 20 feet above water, under fig-tree facing north. + Noon. 81° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Aneroid 30.50. + Negolo Town 3 p.m. 83° 28.30 cor. 29.42 Day hot, aneroid in verandah 30.50. + Banza Chingufu. + 6 p.m. 71° 27.55 cor. 28.67 Clear evening, misty towards night, + young moon with halo. + Height of river below Vivi Fall, 195 feet. + +18th Sept. 6 a.m. 65° 27.60 cor. 28.72 Cool, grey, no wind. + At Chingufu as 9 a.m. 76° 27.65 cor. 28.77 Strong land wind, from east, no + before. sun, heavy clouds N.E. + Noon. 90° 27.50 cor. 28.62 High west wind, hot sun. + 3.30 p.m. 88° 27.35 cor. 28.47 Clear at 1 p.m., thermometer 100° + little wind, sun hot. + 6 p.m. 77° 27.45 cor. 28.57 Clear evening, no dew, misty moon, + high sea-breeze at night. + +19th Sept. 6 a.m. 67° 27.70 cor. 28.82 Still grey morning, no wind. + At Chingufu. 9.30 a.m. 76° 27.65 cor. 28.77 Lighter, wind from west. + Noon. 81° 27.60 cor. 28.72 Dull, light west wind. + 3 p.m. 88° 27.45 cor. 28.57 Cloudy and sunny, west wind. + 6 p.m. 72° 27.50 cor. 28.62 Clear, fine, little wind. + How do these agree with September 11? + + Chingufu. +20th Sept. 6 a.m. 69° 27.70 cor. 28.82 Fine, clear, and still morning. + On river. + Down river 9 a.m. 82° 29.35 cor. 30.47 Hot day, aneroid 30.55; at 10 a.m. + 29.85. + Off Chacha village on river. + Noon. 87° 29.35 cor. 30.47 Sea-breeze, sun hot, but obscured + by smoke of bush fires. + On river. + 3 p.m. 86° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Aneroid 30.40, stiff sea breeze. + Last observation taken about 5 miles above Boma. + +21 Sept. 9 a.m. 76° 29.30 cor. 30.42 Cool, cloudy, pleasant. + At Boma. Noon. 81.5° 29.25 cor. 30.37 Dull, threatens rain. + 3 p.m. 86° 29.25 cor. 30.37 Dull, muggy, cloudy. + +22nd Sept. 6 a.m. 77° 29.10 cor. 30.22 Dull, cloudy, cool; instrument in + Boma. verandah facing south-west. + 9 a.m. 76° 20.30 cor. 30.42 + Noon. 84° 29.30 cor. 30.42 Dull and warm. + 3 p.m. 84° 29.10 cor. 30.22 Very dull, strong sea-breeze comes + up in afternoon, and lasts till + 9 p.m. + 6 p.m. 79° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Dull night. + Mean altitude of Boma (commonly called Embomma), 73 feet. + +23rd Sept. 6 a.m. 70.5° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Dull morning + Boma. 9 a.m. 81.75° 29.25 cor. 30.37 Clear and sunny. + 3 p.m. 92° 29.10 cor. 30.22 Clear, hot, and sunny. + 6 p.m. 79° 29.15 cor. 30.27 High wind, sun. + +24th Sept. 6 a.m. 74° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Cool and clear. + Boma. 9 a.m. 81° 29.30 cor. 30.42 Hot and clear. + 12.30 p.m. 93.75° 29.10 cor. 30.22 Hot and clear. + 3 p.m. 93.57° 29.05 cor. 30.17 Very strong sea-breeze till late at + night. + 6 p.m. 79.5° 29.15 cor. 30.27 Very strong sea-breeze till late at + night. + +25th Sept. 6 a.m. 74° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Dull, no sun, rain threatened. + Noon. 81° 29.20 cor. 30.32 + 3 p.m. 83° 29.19 cor. 30.31 Aneroid 30.15. + 6 p.m. 78° 29.10 cor. 30.22 Dull, no sun, wind subsided at + night. + + Porto da Senha at factory. +26th Sept. 6 a.m. 78° 29.25 cor. 30.37 Aneroid 30.62, day clear. + 9 a.m. 76° 29.30 cor. 30.42 Aneroid 30.40, hot sun. + On passage in canoe down river. + Noon. 87° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Aneroid 30.45. + 3 p.m. 95.5° 29.00 cor. 30.12 Aneroid 30.52. + Mean altitude of Porto da Lenha, 38 feet. + +28th Sept. 6 a.m. 71.25° 29.15 cor. 30.27 Dry, cloudy morning. + Banana factory, 9 a.m. 75° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Calm, land and sea breezes very + mouth of river, regular. + 60 feet above Noon. 81° 29.10 cor. 30.22 At noon thermometer at seaside in + sea level. sun (overcast) 83.5°. + 3 p.m. 75.5° 29.05 cor. 30.17 + 6 p.m. 74° 29.05 cor. 30.17 Symp. (corrected) 30.32°. + +29th Sept. 6 a.m. 73° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Weather calm; at seaside in sun + same place. 9 a.m. 80° 29.20 cor. 30.32 (overcast) thermometer 74.5°. + Noon. 83° 29.10 cor. 30.22 + 3 p.m. 80° 29.15 cor. 30.27 Symp. (corrected) 30.32°. + 6 p.m. 74° 29.05 cor. 30.17 Night cold and windy. + +30th Sept. 6 a.m. 71° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Clear weather, high wind. + same place. 9 a.m. 79° 29.15 cor. 30.27 + + + + + + + + + II. + + Plants Collected in the Congo, at Dahome, and the Island of + Annabom, by Mr. Consul Burton. + + Received at the Herbarium, Royal Gardens, Kew, + September, 1864. + + + +Argemone Mexicana Dahome. +Cleome Guineensis, Hf. Congo. +Gynardropsis pentaphylla, D. C. Ditto. +Ritcheia fragrans. Br. Dahome. +Alsodeia sp. Congo. +Flacourtia sp. Dahome. +Polygala avenaria, Willd. Congo. +Polycarpæa linearifolia Dahome (not laid in). +Seda cordifolia, L. Congo. +Seda an S. humilis (?) Ditto. +Seda urens, L. Ditto. +Abutilon sp. Ditto. +Urena lobata, L. Annabom and Congo. +Hibiscus cannabinus, L. Dahome. +Hibiscus vitifolius, L. Congo. +Hibiscus (Abelmoschus) Moschatus, Moench Ditto. +Hibiscus aff. H. Sabdariffæ Dahome. +Gossypium sp. Congo. +Walthenia Indica, L. Dahome. +Walthenia (?) Congo. +Triumfetta rhomboidea (?) Congo, Annabom, Dahome. +Acridocarpus sp. Congo. +Citrus Aurantium (?) Annabom (not laid in). +Citrus sp. Annabom (not laid in). +Cardiospermum Helicacabum, L. Annabom. +Anacardium occidentale, L. Congo and Annabom. +Spondias dubia? Reich. Annabom. +Cnestis(?) sp. Dahome. +Cnestis(?) sp. Congo. +(?)Spondias sp. (very young) Ditto (not laid in). +(?)Soindeia sp. fl. ft. Congo. +Rosa sp. Ditto (not laid in). +Jussieua acuminata, Jno. Congo. +Jussieua linifolia(?) Vahl. Ditto. +Mollugo Spergula, L. Ditto. +Combretum spinosum(?) Dahome (fl. only). +Combretum sp. Congo. +Quisqualis ebracteata(?) Ditto. +Combretum sp. (fruct.) Ditto (not laid in). +Combretum sp. Congo. +Modeeca tamnifolia(?), Kl. Annabom. +Syzygium Avariense, Kth. Congo. +Melothria triangularis(?), Kth. Ditto. +Melothria(?) sp. Ditto. +Cucurbitaceæ (3 other spp. very imperfect and not laid in). +Umbelliferæ Congo. +Desmodium Mauritianum(?), D.C. Ditto, Annabom(?) +Desmodium do. v. adscendens Congo. +Desmodium latifolium, D.C. Dahome. +Desmodium Gargeticum (?), D. C. Annabom. +Cajanus Indicus, L. Congo. +Eniosema cajanoides Ditto. +Eniosema aff. id. Ditto. +Eniosema aff. glomerata Ditto. +Abrus precatorius(?) Annabom. +Pisum sativum Congo. +Phaseolus sp. Annabom. +Rhynchaesia sp. Congo. +Tephrosia sp. Ditto. +Milletia(?) sp. Ditto. +Milletia(?) Ditto. +Milletia or Lonchocarpus (?) Congo. +Indigofera af. I. endeeaphylla. Jacq. Annabom. +Indigofera sp. Congo. +Indigofera sp. Dahome. +Indigofera sp. Ditto. +Sesbania sp. Congo. +Crotalaria sp. Dahome. +Glycine labialis (?) Annabom. +Erythrina sp. (?) Dahome. +Berlinia sp. (?) Congo. +Cassia occidentalis, L. Ditto (not laid in) +Cassia mimosoides (?), L. Congo. +Dichrostachys nutans (?) Ditto. +Mimosa asperata (?), L. Congo (not laid in) +Zygia fastigiata (?) Ela Dahome. +Vernonia (Decaneuron), Senegalensis Ditto, Annabom. +Vernonia Congo. +Vernonia an V. pandurata (?) Ditto. +Vernonia cinerea Ditto. +Ethulia conyzoides Ditto. +Vernonia an V. pauciflora (?) Dahome. +Vernonia stæchadifolia, Sch. Ditto. +Ageratum conyzoides, L. Annabom, Congo. +Mikania chenopodiifolia, Wild. Ditto. +Grangea, sp. Congo. +Bidens pilosa, L. Ditto. +Coronocarpus (?) Dahome. +Blumea (?) sp. Ditto. +Blumea sp. Ditto. +Blumea sp. Ditto. +Chrysanthellum Sengalense (?), D.C. Dahome. +Verbesinoid. dub. Congo. +Gnaphalium an luteo-album (?) Ditto. +Hedyotis corymbosa, L. Ditto. +Otomeria Guineensis (?), Kth. Ditto. +Randia longistyla, D. C. Dahome. +Borreria ramisparsa (?), D. C. var. Ditto. +Octodon (?) sp. Dahome. +Spermacoce Ruelliæ (?), D. C. Ditto. +Baconia Corymbosa, D. C. Ditto. +Baconia aff. d. Annabom. +Rubiaceæ, dub. Congo. +Rubiaceæ Ditto. +Rubiaceæ Annabom. +Diospyros (?) sp. Congo. +Cynoctonum (?) aff. Ditto. +Ipomæa sp. (?). Ditto. +Ipomæa sp. Ditto. +Ipomæa sp. Ditto. +Ipomæa sp. Dahome. +Ipomæa filicaulis, Bl. Congo. +Ipomæa sp. Ditto. +Ipomæa involucrata. Dahome. +Ipomæa sessiliflora (?) Clius (?) Ditto, Congo. +Leonotis nepetifolia. Bil. Congo. +Ocymum an O. gratissimum (?) Ditto (not laid in). +Moschoesma polystachya (?) Ditto (ditto). +Heliophytum Indicum, D. C. Ditto. +Heliotropium strigosum (?), Willd. Dahome. +Brillantaisia an B. patula, P. A. (?) Congo. +Dicliptera verticillaris (?), Juss. Ditto. +Asystasia Coromandeliana (?) Dahome. +Justicia Galeopsis Ditto. +Lycopersicum esculentum Congo. +Capsicum an C. frutescens (?) Ditto (ditto). +Solanum Ditto (ditto). +Solanum Annabom (ditto). +Solanum Congo (ditto). +Schwenckia Americana, L. Ditto. +Scoparia dulcis, L. Congo (not laid in). +Spathodea lævis (?) Dahome. +Sesamum Indicum, var. Ditto. +Plumbago Zeylanica, L. Congo (ditto.) +Clerodendron multiflorum (?), Don. Ditto, imp., Ditto. +Clerodendron sp. Congo. +Lippia sp. Ditto. +Lippia an L. Adoensis? Ditto. +Stachytarphita Jamaicensis, V. Dahome. +Celosia trigyna (?), L. Congo. +Erua lanata Ditto (ditto). +Pupalia lappacea, Moq. Annabom. +Achyranthes involucrata, Moq. Dahome. +Achyranthes argentea (?), Lam. Congo. +Celosia argentea, L. Dahome (ditto). +Amaranthus paniculatus, L. Congo. +Euxolus irridis Congo. +Phyllanthus pentandrus (?) Dahome. +Phyllanthus Nivari, L. Congo. +Acalypha sp. Ditto. +Manihot utilissima (?) Ditto. +Antidesma venosum Ditto. +Euphorbia pilulifera, L. Annabom. +Croton lobatum Dahome. +Phytolacca an P. Abyssinica (?) Congo (bad, not laid in). +Ricinus communis (?) Congo (not laid in). +Phyllanthus sp. Ditto. +Cannabis sativa, L. Ditto (ditto). +Boerhaavia paniculata Ditto (ditto). +Polygonum Senegalense, Meiss Ditto. +Castus Afch. Ditto (ditto). +Aneilema adhærens (?) Ditto. +Aneilema an A. ovato-oblongeum Ditto. +Aneilema Beninense Congo. +Commolyna (?) Dahome. +Fragts. Commolyneæ (not laid in). +Phœnix (?) spadix Congo. +Canna Indica (?) Congo and Annabom. +Chloris Varbata (?), Sw. Congo (not laid in). +Andropogon (Cymbopogon) sp. (?) Ditto. +Andropogon, an Sorghum (?) Ditto (ditto). +Panicum an Oplismenus (?) Ditto (ditto). +Panicum sp. Congo and Annabom. +(?) Eleusine Indica Annabom (not laid in). +Eragrostis megastachya, Lk. Congo. +Leptochloa sp (?) Ditto. +Pennisetum sp. Ditto. +Pennisetum sp. Dahome. +Pennisetum sp. Congo. +Mariscus sp. Annabom. +Cy. flagellatus (?) Hochst Congo. +Cy. sphacelatus Annabom. +Scleria an S. racemosa Congo. + + + + + + III. + +Heights of Stations, West Coast of Africa, Computed from Observations Made by + Capt. Burton. + + + +1863. feet. +Sept. 9.-- On route to Banza + Nokki 1322 +Sept. 11. Nokki 1553 +Sept. 9.-- Nokki, on hills 1577\ + above river. 1347 | + " 1393 | + " 1379 | +Sept. 10. " 1404 |- Mean = 1430 feet. + " 1517 | + " 1371 | + " 1467 | + " 1415/ +Sept. 11.-- Chingufu above 1656\ + Nokki 1775 | Mean 1703 feet: + " 1769 | See Sept. 18., &c. +Sept. 12. " 1613/ + +Nelongo's Village, lower down 781-\ + and nearer village. 872 | + " 818 | + " 961 |-Mean = 828 feet. +Sept. 13. " 861 | + " 766 | + " 736-/ +Sept. 13.-- Cove near Congo River 78 feet. +Sept. 14.-- Hills above Banza 315 + River. 411 + " 865 +Sept. 15.-- Banza River 179 at level of river. + Banza Nkulu above 1149 \ + rapids. 1172 |-Mean = 1140. +Sept. 16. " 1099 / + Banza Nkulu 1144 \ + " 1270 |-Mean = 1212. + " 1270 | +Sept. 17. " 1162 / + Nelongo's Village– + Negolo 923 + Banza Chingufu 1732 +Sept. 18.-- Chingufu. 1711 \ + " 1611 | + " 1697 | + " 1854 | + " 1804 | +Sept. 19. " 1600 |-Mean = 1694 feet. + " 1609 | See Sept. 11. + " 1636 | + " 1751 | + " 1775 | +Sept. 20. " 1586 / +Sept. 21. Boma. 9 \ + " 9 | + " 19 | + " 189 | +Sept. 22. " 9 | + " 57 | + " 135 | + " 76 | +Sept. 23. " 140 | + " 19 | + " 78 |-Mean = 73 feet. + " 124 | +Sept. 24. " 113 | + " 29 | + " 59 | + " 107 | + " 124 | +Sept. 25. " 113 | + " 67 | + " 58 | + " 180 / +Sept. 26.-- Porto de Lenha. 38 +Sept. 28.-- Banana factory. 94 \ + " 18 | + " 67 | + " 150 | + " 160 | +Sept. 29. " 28 |-Mean = 56 feet. + " 19 | + " 48 | + " 29 | + " 16 | +Sept. 30. " 47 | + " 29 / + + + + + + + + IV. + + (Form of French Passport.) + + Immigration Africaine. + + + +Ce jourd'hui _______________ mil huit cent soixante _______________ par devant +nous _______________ Commissaire du Gouvernement Français, Agent +d'émigration, conformément à l'article 8 du décret du 27 Mars 1852, assisté de +_______________ témoins requis, a comparu le nommé _______________ noir libre, +né au village de _______________ côte de _______________ âgé de +_______________ lequel nous a déclaré consentir librement et de son plein gré +à partir pour une des Colonies Françaises d'Amérique pour y contracter +l'engagement de travail ci-après détaillé et présenté par M _______________ au +nom de M. Régis, au profit de l'habitant qui sera désigné par l'Administration +locale à son arrivée dans la Colonie. + +Les conditions d'engagement de travail sont les suivantes: + + ART. 1. + +Le nommé ______________________________ s'engage, tant pour les travaux de +culture et de fabrication sucrière &c. que pour tous autres d'exploitation +agricole et industrielle auxquels l'engagiste jugera convenable de l'employer +et généralement pour tous les travaux quelconques de domesticité. + + ART. 2. + +Le présent engagement de travail est de dix années à partir du jour de +l'entrée au service de l'engagiste. L'engagé doit 26 jours de travail +effectifs et complets par mois; les gages ne seront dus qu'après 26 jours de +travail. La journée de travail ordinaire sera celle établie par les règlements +existant dans la Colonie. A l'époque de la manipulation l'engagé sera tenu de +travailler sans augmentation de salaires suivant les besoins de +l'établissement où il sera employé. (The employer can thus overwork his slaves +as much as he pleases.) + + ART. 3. + +L'engagiste aura le droit de céder et transporter à qui bon lui semblera, sous +le contrôle de l'Administration le présent engagement de travail contracté à +son profit. (N.B.--The owner can thus separate families.) + + ART. 4. + +L'engagé sera logé sur l'établissement où il sera employé; il aura droit, de +la part de l'engagiste aux soins médicaux, à sa nourriture, laquelle sera +conforme aux règlements et à l'usage adopté dans la Colonie pour les gens de +travail du pays. Bien entendu que toute maladie contractée par un fait +étranger, soit à ses travaux, soit à ses occupations, sera à ses frais. (Thus +bed and board are at the discretion of the employer, and the gate of fraud is +left open.) + + ART. 5. + +Le salaire de l'engagé est de: 12 francs pour les hommes, + 10 francs pour les femmes, + 8 francs pour les enfants de 10 à 14 ans., +par mois de 26 jours de travail, comme il est dit à l'article 2, à partir de 8 +jours après son débarquement dans la colonie. Moitié de cette somme lui sera +payée fin chaque mois, l'autre moitié le sera fin de chaque année. (Not even +festivals allowed as holidays.) + + ART. 6. + +L'engagé reconnait avoir reçu en avance, du représentant de M. Régis, la somme +de DEUX CENTS FRANCS dont il s'est servi pour sa libération et pour divers +frais à son compte, Ces avances seront retenues sur ses salaires à raison de +par mois. + + ART. 7. + +L'engagé déclare par avance se soumettre aux règlements rendus dans la Colonie +pour la police du travail et de l'immigration. + + ART. 8. + +A l'expiration de son temps d'engagement le rapatriement sera accordé à +l'immigrant pour lui, sa femme, et ses enfants non adultes, à la condition par +celui-ci de verser mensuellement à la Caisse d'immigration le dixième de son +salaire. + +Si l'engagé renonce à son rapatriement, toute somme versée par lui lui sera +remboursée. + +En cas de réengagement les conditions en seront débattues de gré-à-gré entre +l'engagé et le propriétaire engagiste. + +Fait et signé de bonne foi, le + +Certifié par le délégué de +l'administration faisant fonctions +d'Agent d'émigration. + + + + + +[FN#1] "Die Deutsche Expedition an der Loango Küuste, nebst +älteren Nachrichten über die zu erforschenden Länder." Von Adolf +Bastian. Jena and London (Trübner and Co.), 1874. + +[FN#2] See "The Lands of the Cazembe," p. 15, Royal +Geographical Society, London, 1873. + +[FN#3] See "The Lands of the Cazembe" (p. 25, note), where, +however, the word has taken the form of "Impaçeiro." At p. 27, +line 6, a parenthesis has been misplaced before and after +"Impalancas," a word differently interpreted by Portuguese +writers. + +[FN#4] The Directory and Charts. + +[FN#5] That of the Hydrographic Office, dated 1863, assigns it +to S. Lat. 7° 44', and E. Long. 13° 5'; and the Granite Pillar to +S. Lat. 7° 36' 15", and E. Long. 13° 6' 30". + +[FN#6] Duarte Lopez, the Portuguese Captain, whose journals +were used by Pigafetta. He went to the Congo regions in 1578, and +stayed there ten years. "Philipp's Voyages," vol. iii. p. 236. + +[FN#7] "Philipp's Voyages," vol. iii. p. 236. + +[FN#8] Appendix to Tuckey's "Expedition," No. 6. + +[FN#9] See the note of the learned Robert Brown, p. 472, +Appendix V., Tuckey's "Congo." + +[FN#10] "Relazione del Reame di Congo, e delle circonvicine +contrade, tratta dagli Scritti e Raggionamenti di Odoardo Lopez, +Portogheze, per Philippo Pigafetta." Roma, 1591, fol. + +[FN#11] "Historia de Etiopia," p. 65. + +[FN#12] "Geography of N'yassi," note, p. 51. + +[FN#13] See "Zanzibar City, Island, and Coast," vol. i. p. 5. +"Marinus of Tyre" became by misprint "mariners of Tyre." + +[FN#14] Chap. xvii. of the Rev. Mr. Waddell's "Twenty-nine Years +in the West Indies and Central Africa." + +[FN#15] "Narrative of a Voyage of Discovery to Africa and +Arabia," by Captain Thomas Boteler. London: Bentley, 1835; +repeated from Owen's "Voyages to Africa, Arabia," &c. London: +Bentley, 1833. Lt. Wolf, R.N., has given an able analysis of this +great surveying undertaking in the "Journal of the Geographical +Society," vol. iii. of 1833. + +[FN#16] See chap. v. + +[FN#17] Of this lake I shall have something to say in chap. xii. + +[FN#18] See "The Lands of the Cazembe," p. 24. + +[FN#19] Petermann's "Geog. Mitt." of 1860, pp. 227-235. I have +duly obtained at Pest the permission of Professor Hunfálvy, who +in 1859 edited the Hungarian and German issues, to translate into +English the highly interesting volume, the only remains of +Ladislaus Magyar, the traveller having died, Nov. 19, 1864, after +visiting large and previously unknown tracts of south-western +Africa. The work has been undertaken by the Rev. R. C. G. +O'Callaghan, consular chaplain, Trieste, and I hope that it will +soon appear with notes by myself. It will be a fitting pendant to +Dr. de Lacerda's "Journey to the Lands of the Cazembe." + +[FN#20] "Geog. Mitt." 1857, p. 190. + +[FN#21] Proofs of the identity of the Lualaba with the Congo;" +translated by Mr. Keith Johnston from the "Geogr. Mittheilungen," +i. 18, Bund, 1872, and published in the "Proceedings of the Royal +Geographical Society," No. i, vol. xviii. of Feb. 24, 1873. + +[FN#22] "The Lands of the Cazembe," p. 47. + +[FN#23] "Daily Telegraph," Sept. 6, 1869. + +[FN#24] "Erläuterungen," &c. Berlin: Dietrich Reimer, 1874. + +[FN#25] Tuckey (p. 214), and the General Observations prefixed +to the Diaries. + +[FN#26] This palm-clapping is often alluded to in "O Muata +Cazembe" (pp. 223 et passim). + +[FN#27] "Highlands of the Brazil," vol. ii. chap. xv. The red +clay of the Congo region is an exact copy of what is found on the +opposite side of the Atlantic. + +[FN#28] "Journal of an African Cruiser," by an Officer of the +United States Navy, p. 173. London, 1848. Tuckey ("Narrative," +132) gives a sketch of the building. + +[FN#29] See frontispiece. + +[FN#30] At the memorable Bath meeting of the British +Association, Sept. 1864. + +[FN#31] Mr. Richard Spruce, "Ocean Highways," August, 1873, p. +213. + +[FN#32] "Lowlands of the Brazil," chap. xvii. Tinsleys, 1875. +II. + +[FN#33] "Journal of the Royal Geographical Society," vol. iii. +p. 206, 1833. + +[FN#34] In the "Geographical Magazine" for February, 1875. + +[FN#35] In Carli Gramga and Fomet, evident cacography. + + + + + +End of Volume 2 of Two Trips to Gorilla Land. + + + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TWO TRIPS TO GORILLA LAND AND THE CATARACTS OF THE CONGO *** + +This file should be named 5761-8.txt or 5761-8.zip + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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Burton +(#20 in our series by Richard F. Burton) + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. 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Burton + +Release Date: May, 2004 [EBook #5761] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on August 27, 2002] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: Latin1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TWO TRIPS TO GORILLA LAND AND THE CATARACTS OF THE CONGO *** + + + + +Scanned by JC Byers, (www.wollamshram.ca/1001) +Proofread by the volunteers of the Distributed Proofreaders site. +(http://charlz.dns2go.com/gutenberg/) + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + + + +</pre> + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + TWO TRIPS TO GORILLA LAND AND THE CATARACTS OF THE CONGO + </h1> + <h2> + By Richard F. Burton. + </h2> + <h3> + Vol. II. of Two Volumes + </h3> + <h4> + London: 1876 + </h4> + <hr /> + <p> + <b>CONTENTS</b> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PART"> PART II. — The Cataracts of the Congo. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PART2"> Part II. — The Cataracts of the Congo. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter I. — From Fernando Po to Loango + Bay.—the German Expedition. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter II. — To São Paulo De Loanda. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter III. — The Festival—a Trip to + Calumbo—portuguese Hospitality. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> Chapter IV. — The Cruise along Shore—the + Granite Pillar of Kinsembo. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> Chapter V. — Into the Congo River.—the + Factories.—trip to Shark's Point.—the Padrão and Pinda. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> Chapter VI. — Up the Congo River.—the + Slave Depot, Porto Da Lenha.—arrival at Boma. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> Chapter VII. — Boma.—our Outfit for + the Interior </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> Chapter VIII. — A Visit to Banza Chisalla. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> Chapter IX. — Up the Congo to Banza Nokki. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> Chapter X. — Notes on the Nzadi or Congo + River. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> Chapter XI. — Life at Banza Nokki. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> Chapter XII. — Preparations for the March. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> Chapter XIII. — The March to Banza Nkulu. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> Chapter XIV. — The Yellala of the Congo. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> Chapter XV. — Return to the Congo Mouth. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> Chapter XVI. — The Slaver and the + Missionary in the Congo River. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> Chapter XVII. — Concluding Remarks. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE"> Appendix </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_FOOT"> FOOTNOTES </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART" id="link2H_PART"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + PART II. — The Cataracts of the Congo. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Allí o mui grande reino está de Congo, + Por nós ja convertido à fé de Christo, + Por onde o Zaire passa claro e longo, + Rio pelos antiguos nunca visto." + + "Here lies the Congo kingdom, great and strong, + Already led by us to Christian ways; + Where flows Zaïre, the river clear and long, + A stream unseen by men of olden days." + + The Lusiada, V. 13. +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART2" id="link2H_PART2"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Part II. — The Cataracts of the Congo. + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter I. — From Fernando Po to Loango Bay.—the German + Expedition. + </h2> + <p> + During the hot season of 1863, "Nanny Po," as the civilized African calls + this "lofty and beautiful island," had become a charnel-house, a "dark and + dismal tomb of Europeans." The yellow fever of the last year, which wiped + out in two months one-third of the white colony—more exactly, 78 out + of 250—had not reappeared, but the conditions for its re-appearance + were highly favourable. The earth was all water, the vegetation all slime, + the air half steam, and the difference between wet and dry bulbs almost + nil. Thoroughly dispirited for the first time, I was meditating how to + escape, when H. M. Steamship "Torch" steamed into Clarence Cove, and + Commander Smith hospitably offered me a passage down south. To hear was to + accept. Two days afterwards (July 29, 1863) I bade a temporary "adios" to + the enemy. + </p> + <p> + The bitterness of death remained behind as we passed out of the baneful + Bights. Wind and wave were dead against us, yet I greatly enjoyed the + gradual emerging of the sun through his shroud of "smokes;" the increasing + consciousness that a moon and stars really exist; the soft blue haze of + the sky, and the coolness of 73° F. at 6 A.M. in the captain's cabin. I + had also time to enjoy these charms. The "Torch" was not provided with + "despatch- boilers:" she was profoundly worm-eaten, and a yard of copper, + occasionally clapped on, did not prevent her making some four feet of + water a day. So we rolled leisurely along the well-known Gaboon shore, and + faintly sighted from afar Capes Lopez and St. Catherine, and the fringing + ranges of Mayumba-land, a blue line of heights based upon gently rising + banks, ruddy and white, probably of shaly clay. The seventh day (August 5) + placed us off the well-known "red hills" of Loango-land. + </p> + <p> + The country looks high and bold after the desperate flatness of the + Bights, and we note with pleasure that we have left behind us the + "impervious luxuriance of vegetation which crowns the lowlands, covers the + sides of the rises, and caps their summits." During the rains after + October the grass, now showing yellow stubble upon the ruddy, rusty plain, + becomes a cane fence, ten to twelve feet tall; but instead of matted, + felted jungle, knitted together by creepers of cable size, we have + scattered clumps of dark, lofty, and broad-topped trees. A nearer view + shows great cliffs, weather-worked into ravines and basins, ribs and + ridges, towers and pinnacles. Above them is a joyful open land, apparently + disposed in two successive dorsa or steps, with bright green tiers and + terraces between, and these are pitted with the crater-like sinks locally + called "holes," so frequent in the Gaboon country. Southwards the beauty + of eternal verdure will end, and the land will become drier, and therefore + better fitted for Europeans, the nearer it approaches Mossamedes Bay. + South of "Little Fish," again, a barren tract of white sand will show the + "Last Tree," an inhospitable region, waterless, and bulwarked by a raging + sea. + </p> + <p> + Loango is a "pool harbour," like the ancient Portus Lemanus (Hythe), a + spit of shingle, whose bay, north-east and south-west, forms an inner + lagoon, bounded landwards by conspicuous and weather-tarnished red cliffs. + This "lingula" rests upon a base of terra firma whose westernmost + projection is Indian Point. From the latter runs northwards the "infamous" + Indian Bar, compared by old sailors with a lengthened Bill of Portland; a + reef some three miles long, which the waves assault with prodigious fury; + a terror to slavers, especially in our autumn, when the squalls and storms + begin. The light sandy soil of the mainland rests upon compact clay, and + malaria rises only where the little drains, which should feed the lagoon, + evaporate in swamps. Here and there are clumps of tall cocoas, a capot, + pullom or wild cotton-tree, and a neat village upon prairie land, where + stone is rare as on the Pampas. Southwards the dry tract falls into low + and wooded ground. + </p> + <p> + The natural basin, entered by the north-east, is upwards of a mile in + length, and the narrow, ever-shifting mouth is garnished with rocks, the + sea breaking right across. Gunboats have floated over during the rains, + but at dead low water in the dry season we would not risk the gig. Guided + by a hut upon the beach fronting French Factory and under lee of the + breakers off Indian Bar, I landed near a tree-motte, in a covelet smoothed + by a succession of sandpits. The land sharks flocked down to drag the boat + over the breakwater of shingle. They appeared small and effeminate after + the burly negroes of the Bights, and their black but not comely persons + were clad in red and white raiment. It is a tribe of bumboat men, speaking + a few words of English, French, and Portuguese, and dealing in mats and + pumpkins, parrots, and poultry, cages, and Fetish dolls called "idols." + </p> + <p> + Half a mile of good sandy path led to the English Factory, built upon a + hill giving a charming view. To the south-east, and some three miles + inland from the centre of the bay, we were shown "Looboo Wood," a thick + motte conspicuously crowning a ridge, and forming a first-rate landmark. + Its shades once sheltered the nyáre, locally called buffalo, the gorilla, + and perhaps the more monstrous "impungu" (mpongo). Eastward of the Factory + appears Chomfuku, the village of Jim Potter, with a tree-clad sink, + compared by old voyagers with "the large chalkpit on Portsdown Hill," and + still much affected by picnickers. At Loanghili, or Loanguilli, south of + Looboo Wood, and upon the right bank of a streamlet which trickles to the + sea, is the cemetery, where the kings are buried in gun-boxes. + </p> + <p> + The Ma-Loango (for mwani, "lord" of Loango), the great despot who ruled as + far as the Congo River, who used to eat in one house, drink in another, + and put to death man or beast that saw him feeding, is a thing of the + past. Yet five miles to the eastward (here held to be a day's march) King + Monoyambi governs "big Loango town," whose modern native name, I was told, + is Mangamwár. He shows his power chiefly by forbidding strangers to enter + the interior. + </p> + <p> + The Factory (Messrs. Hatton and Cookson) was a poor affair of bamboos and + mats, with partition-walls of the same material, and made pestilent by + swamps to landward. Little work was then doing in palm oil, and the copper + mines of the interior had ceased to send supplies. We borrowed hammocks to + cross the swamps, and we found French Factory a contrast not very + satisfactory to our insular pride. M. Charles de Gourlet, of the Maison + Régis, was living, not in a native hut lacking all the necessaries of + civilized man, but in a double-storied stone house, with barracoons, + hospital, public room, orchestra, and so forth, intended for the + "emigrants." Instead of water, the employés had excellent cognac and + vermouth, and a succulent cuisine replaced the poor Britishers' two + barrels of flour and biscuit. No wonder that in our half-starved fellow + countrymen we saw little of the "national failing, a love of extravagant + adventure." The Frenchmen shoot, or at least go out shooting, twice a + week, they walk to picnics, learn something of the language, and see + something of the country. They had heard a native tradition of Mr. + Gorilla's "big brother," but they could give no details. + </p> + <p> + I will conclude this chapter with a notice of what has taken place on the + Loango Coast a decade after my departure. Although Africa has changed but + little, Europe has, and we can hardly envy the German nation its eminence + and unexpected triumphs in war when we see the energy and persistency with + which they are applying themselves to the arts of peace—especially + of exploration. And nowhere have they been more active than in this part + of the world, where their old rivals, the English, are apparently + contented to sit at home in ease, working their factories and counting out + their money. + </p> + <p> + To begin with the beginning. The year 1872 found the Berlin Geographical + Society intent upon "planting a lance in Africa," and upon extending and + connecting the discoveries of Livingstone, Du Chaillu, Schweinfurth, and + other travellers. Delegates from the various associations of Germany met + in congress, and organized (April 19, 1873) the Germanic "Afrikanische + Gesellschaft." Ex-President Dr. Adolf Bastian, a well-known traveller in + Siam, Cambodia, China, and the Indian Archipelago, and who, moreover, had + visited Ambassi or Salvador do Congo, the old missionary capital, in 1857, + was at once sent out as pioneer and vanguard to prospect the coast for a + suitable station and a point de départ into the interior—a + scientific step dictated by trained and organized common sense. The choice + of leader fell upon Dr. Gussfeldt, Herr von Hattorf being his second in + command, and with them were associated Dr. Falkenstein as zoologist, and + Dr. Soyaux as botanist. A geologist, Dr. Lenz, of Hamburg, was sent to + connect the Ogobe and Okanda rivers with, the Loango coast, unless he + found a likely northeastern route. In this case, the Society would take + measures to supply him with the necessary equipment. + </p> + <p> + The expedition began unfortunately, by the loss of outfit and instruments + in the "Nigritia," wrecked off Sierra Leone: it persevered, however, and + presently met Dr. Bastian and Professor von Gorschen at Cabinda. The + former had collected much information about the coast. He had learned from + slaves that the old kingdoms of Loango, Mahango, and Angay are bounded + eastwards, or inland, by Mayombe, a belt of forest, the threshold of the + unknown interior. It begins the up-slope to the great Ghat ridge, which, + visible after a day's journey, separates the coast from the central basin. + A fortnight or three weeks' march leads to an open country, a land of + metalliferous hills, where the people barter their goods against gunpowder + and weapons, brought by traders from the east. These "Orientals" are now + heard of almost all along the West African coast, and doubtless, in + several places, the report will prove true. The prospector had also + visited, in search of a depôt, Futila in Cabinda-land; the Tschiluango + (Chiloango), or Cacongo River, a fine navigable stream, where the people + float down their palm oil; Landana; "Chinsonso" (Chinxoxo, pronounced + Chinshosho), Chicambo, Loango, and the Quillu (Kwillu) stream, the latter + breaking through the coast range, disemboguing near Loango Bay, and + reported to be connected with the great Congo. He found the old despotism + of Loango to be insignificant, reduced, in fact, to the strip of coast + between the Quillu and the Luema-Lukallo Rivers. The slave trade, once a + monopoly of kings, princes, and chiefs, is now no more; legitimate + commerce has levelled ranks, and the real power is in the hands of the + wealthiest merchants. + </p> + <p> + From the Abbé Durand, librarian of the Paris Geographical Society, we + learn: 1. That Loango is in the Province of Cacongo; 2. That Cacongo is + considered a province of Loango; 3. That Cacongo forms a kingdom of + itself, with a capital, Ringwele. The name of the late king was "Dom João, + Capitão Mempolo," and, though he had died some years ago, he was not + buried, for the usual reasons, in early 1874. Meanwhile his nephew and + successor, Mwátá Bona, was acting regent until the obsequies shall take + place. + </p> + <p> + The station finally chosen by the German explorers was Chinxoxo, or, as + Herr Kiepert uncompromisingly writes it, "Tschinschonkscho." It is within + easy distance of the Chiloango or "Luiza Loango" River; and its port, + Landana in Cabindaland, has become a thoroughly Europeanized settlement, + with five trading stations up stream. An empty Dutch factory was repaired, + and the house, containing a parlour, three small bed rooms, and the usual + offices, was ready for habitation by the second week in October. + </p> + <p> + On October 26th, Dr. Güssfeldt, after shaking off the "seasoning fever" at + Ponta Negra, proceeded to make a trial trip, and a route survey with + compass and chronometer, up the important Quillu River. As usual, it has a + bar; within the last few years the right bank has been carried away by the + floods, and some of the old factories are under water. The average breadth + is 400 paces, which diminishes to 25 at the rocky "gates" near Kama- + Chitoma, Manyamatal and Gotu. At 29 direct miles from the mouth lies + "Chimbak," a trading station, where Dr. Güssfeldt rested and recruited + strength for a month. Thence he went leisurely up stream to the Bumina + Rapids, and found the easterly rhumb of the river bending to the N.E. and + the N.N.E.; its channel did not exceed 50 yards in width, and precipitous + rock-walls rose on either hand. At Bumina as at Gotu the Quillu breaks + through the parallel lines of Ghats, whose trend is from N.W. to S.E.; in + fact, these "Katarakten" are the Yellalas of the Congo. A march of four + hours brought him to the Mayombe country (circ. S. Lat. 4°), which must + not be confounded with the Ma-yumba or northernmost possession of the + Congo kingdom; the latter word properly means "King of Yumba," as + Ma-Loango is Mwani-Loango. The Mayombe chief proved friendly, and assisted + Dr. Güssfeldt to hire bearers (November 7) for Yangela, where his + excursion ended. The boundary-line is marked by a large gate, like the two + openings in the wooden wall denoting the Loango frontier between the + Quillu and Luema rivers. The character of the country changed to the + normal park-like aspect of Africa above the Ghats; the dense forests waxed + thin; picturesque views presented themselves, reminding the wayfarer of + Switzerland; and bare, dome-shaped mountains formed the background. At + Nsunsi, about 2,100 feet above sea-level, the eye ranged over the Yangela + country, as far as the land of the Batetye, whose grassy plains are + traversed by ranges trending to the W.S.W., and apparently culminating to + the south. At the Tondo village the skull of a gorilla was remarked. The + upper Quillu, after its great bend, proved to be 350 to 400 paces broad; + and the traveller ascertained that, instead of being connected with the + great artery, it rises in a lake nearly due north of Nsundi (Sundi), near + the country of the Babongo and the Babum. Dr. Güssfeldt returned to the + coast on December 2, and prepared for the great march into the interior. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Falkenstein, the medicus and zoologist, in November 1873 reported + favourably of Chinxoxo. The station is situated on a hilly ridge + commanding a view of the sea. "It looks imposing enough, but it would + produce more effect if we could hoist the German flag, as the other + establishments here do those of their respective nations. German ships + would then take home news of the progress of our undertaking, and the + natives would see at a distance this token of the enterprising spirit of + the German nation, and come to us with provisions and other natural + products." He adds, "In Fernando Po, an island which I would recommend as + a sanatorium for wealthy hypochondriacs, we found an extraordinary + abundance of fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, mangoes, delicious oranges, and + pine-apples...The ivory trade on the Gaboon is very flourishing. A German + firm which I visited exports, £10,000 worth per annum, the value of total + exports being, £26,000. The tusks are very large; one weighed about 80 + lbs., and some have ranged to 120 lbs. The other articles exported are gum + and ebony, which are brought by the natives, especially the Fans and + Mpangwes (sic) from the interior. The slave trade is said still to be + carried on by Europeans, though it is not known where the slaves go to " + (of course to São Thomé and Prince's Island). "In the immediate vicinity + of our station the chief trade is in palm oil and ground nuts..... Rings, + chains, crosses, watches, &c., are readily taken by the savages in + exchange for native goods, and I obtained a valuable fetish for a chain + and a cross worth a silbergroschen." + </p> + <p> + After three months spent upon the coast, and much suffering from fever, + the energetic Dr. Bastian was welcomed home on December 13, 1873. His + present book<a href="#linknote-1" name="linknoteref-1" id="linknoteref-1"><small>1</small></a> + makes only one instalment of the work, the other being the + "Correspondenzblätter der Afrikanischen Gesellschaft." Briefly, everything + has been done to lay the foundation for success and to advertise the + undertaking. Finally, not satisfied with these steps, the German Society + for the Exploration of equatorial Africa organized in September, 1874, a + second expedition. Captain Alexander von Homeyer, a well-known + ornithologist, will lead it viâ S. Paulo de Loanda and Cassange (Kasanji) + to the mysterious lands of the Mwata ya Nvo, and thus supplement the + labours of Portuguese travellers. This fine undertaking set out early in + 1875. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter II. — To São Paulo De Loanda. + </h2> + <p> + At Loango, by invitation of Commander Hoskins, R.N., I transferred myself + on board H.M. Steamship "Zebra," one of the nymphs of the British navy, + and began the 240 miles southwards. There was no wind except a slant at + sunset, and the current often carried us as far backwards as the sails + drove us onwards. The philosophic landlubber often wonders at the eternal + restlessness of his naval brother-man, who ever sighs for a strong wind to + make the port, and who in port is ever anxious to get out of it. I amused + myself in the intervals of study with watching the huge gulls, which are + skinned and found good food at Fernando Po, and in collecting the + paper-nautilus. The Ocythoë Cranchii was often found inside the shell, and + the sea was streaked as with cotton- flecks by lines of eggs several + inches long, a mass of mucus with fine membraneous structure adhering to + the rocks, and coagulating in spirits or salt water. The drum-fish was not + heard except when we were at anchor; its sound somewhat suggests a distant + frog- concert, and I soon learned to enjoy what M. Dufosse has learnedly + named "ichthyopsophosis," the song of the fish. Passing Cabinda, 57 miles + from Loanda, but barely in sight, we fell in with H.M. Steamship "Espoir," + Commander Douglas, who had just made his second capture of a + slave-schooner carrying some 500 head of Congos. In these advanced days, + the representative man walks up to you as you come on board; touches his + cap or his wool, and expresses his best thanks in West Coast English; when + you offer him a dram he compares it with the trade article which "only + ‘ting, he no burn." The characteristic sights are the captured Moleques or + negrokins, who, habited in sacks to the knees, choose an M.C. to beat + time, whilst they sing in chorus, extending the right arm, and foully + abusing their late masters, who skulk about the forecastle. + </p> + <p> + Ten days sped by before we sighted the beginning of the end, Cape + Spilemberta and Dande Point, two bluffs in distinct serrations; the aspect + of the land was pleasant, a vista of tall cliffs, white or red, rising + wall-like from a purple sea, jagged with sharp, black reef and + "diabolito," and bearing on the summit a plateau well grown with grass and + tree. We then opened a deep bight, which has the honour of being entitled + the longest indentation from Cape Lopez to Great Fish Bay, some 17° or a + thousand miles of coast. A gap in the cliff line and darker vegetation + showed the Zenza River, generally called Bengo from the district (Icolo e + Bengo) which it traverses. Here was once a busy settlement much frequented + by shipping, which thus escaped harbour dues. The mosquito-haunted stream, + clear in the dries, and, as usual, muddy during the rains, supports wild + duck, and, carried some ten miles in "dongos" or flat-bottomed boats, + supplies the capital of Angola with drinking water and dysentery. + </p> + <p> + As we glide towards the anchorage two features attract my attention: the + Morro or hill-ridge on the mainland, and the narrow strip which forms the + harbour. The escarpment, sweeping from a meridian to a parallel, juts + westward in the bluff Cape Lagostas (Lobsters), a many-coloured face, in + places not unlike the white cliffs of Dover; it then trends from + north-east to south-west, bending at last in a picturesque bow, with a + shallow sag. The material is the tauá or blood-red marl of the Brazil, + banded with white and brown, green, chocolate, and yellow; huge heaps of + "rotten earth," washed down by the rains, cumber the base of the ruined + sea-wall north of the town; in front is a pellucid sea with the usual + trimmings, while behind roll the upland stubbles of autumn, here mottled + black with fire, there scattered with the wild ficus and the cashew, a + traveller from the opposite hemisphere. + </p> + <p> + The Ilha de Loanda, which gave its name to the city, according to Mr. W. + Winwood Reade ("Savage Africa," chapter xxv.), is "derived from a native + word meaning bald:" I believe it to be the Angolan Luánda, or tribute. + Forming the best harbour of the South African coast, it is made by the + missionaries of the seventeenth century to extend some ten leagues long. + James Barbot's plan (A.D. 1700) shows seven leagues by one in breadth, + disposed from north-east to south-west, and, in the latter direction, + fitting into the "Mar Aparcelado" or shoaly sea, a curious hook-shaped + bight with a southern entrance, the "Barra de Curinba" (Corimba). But the + influences which formed the island, or rather islands (for there are two) + have increased the growth, reducing the harbour to three and a half miles + by two in breadth, and they are still contracting it; even in the early + nineteenth century large ships floated off the custom house, and it is dry + land where boats once rode. Dr. Livingstone ("First Expedition," chapter + xx.) believes the causa causans to be the sand swept over the southern + part of the island: Douville more justly concludes that it is the gift of + the Cuanza River, whose mud and ooze, silt and débris are swept north by + the great Atlantic current. Others suppose that it results from the + meeting of the Cuanza and the Bengo streams; but the latter outfall would + be carried up coast. The people add the washings of the Morro, and the + sand and dust of the sea-shore south of the city. + </p> + <p> + This excellent natural breakwater perfectly shelters the shipping from the + "calemas," or perilous breakers on the seaward side, and the surface is + dotted with huts and groves, gardens and palm orchards. At the Ponta do + Norte once stood a fort appropriately called Na. Sa. Flór de Rosa; it has + wholly disappeared, but lately, when digging near the sea, heaps of + building stone were found. Barbot here shows a "toll-house to collect the + customs," and at the southern extremity a star-shaped "Fort Fernand." + </p> + <p> + This island was the earliest of Portuguese conquests on this part of the + coast. The Conquistador Paulo Dias de Novaes, a grandson of Bartholomeo + Dias, was sent a second time, in A.D. 1575, to treat with the king of + "Dongo," who caused trouble to trade. Accompanied by 700 Portuguese, he + reached the Cuanza River, coasted north, and entered by the Barra de + Corimba, then accessible to caravels. He landed without opposition amongst + a population already Christianized, and, after occupying for a few months + the island, which then belonged to Congo, he founded, during the next + year, the Villa de São Paulo de Loanda on the mainland. + </p> + <p> + The importance of the island arose from its being the great money bank of + the natives, who here collected the zimbo, buzio, cowrie, or cypræa + moneta. Ample details concerning this industry are given by the old + writers. The shell was considered superior to the "impure or Braziles," + brought from the opposite Bahia (de Todos os Santos), though much coarser + than the small Indian, and not better than the large blue Zanzibar. M. Du + Chaillu ("Second Expedition," chap, iv.) owns to having been puzzled + whence to derive the four sacred cowries: "They are unknown on the Fernand + Vaz, and I believe them to have come across the continent from eastern + Africa." There are, indeed, few things which have travelled so far and + have lasted so long as cowries—they have been found even amongst + "Anglo-Saxon" remains. + </p> + <p> + The modern Muxi-Loandas hold aloof from the shore-folk, who return the + compliment in kind. They dress comparatively well, and they spend + considerable sums in their half-heathen lembamentos (marriages) and + mutambé (funerals). + </p> + <p> + As might be expected, after three centuries of occupation, the Portuguese, + both in East and West Africa, have naturalized a multitude of native + words, supplying them with a Lusitanian termination. The practice is very + useful to the traveller, and the despair of the lexicographer. During the + matumbé the relations "wake" the toasted, swaddled, and aromatized corpse + with a singular vigour of drink and general debauchery. + </p> + <p> + I arrived with curiosity at the capital of Angola, the first Portuguese + colony visited by me in West Africa. The site is pleasing and picturesque, + contrasting favourably with all our English settlements and with the + French Gaboon; for the first time after leaving Teneriffe, I saw something + like a city. The escarpment and the sea-bordering shelf, allowing a double + town like Athenæ or Thebæ, a Cidade Alta and a Cidade Baixa, are + favourites with the Lusitanians from Lisbon to the China seas, and African + São Paulo is reflected in the Brazilian Bahia. So Greece affected the + Acropolis, and Rome everywhere sought to build a Capitol. The two lines + follow the shore from north-east to south-west, and they form a graceful + amphitheatre by bending westward at the jutting headland, Morro de São + Miguel, of old de São Paulo. Three hundred years of possession have built + forts and batteries, churches and chapels, public buildings and large + private houses,white or yellow, withample green verandahs—each an + ugly cube, but massing well together. The general decline of trade since + 1825, and especially the loss of the lucrative slave export, leave many + large tenements unfinished or uninhabited, while the aspect is as if a + bombardment had lately + </p> + <p> + 026—- taken place. Africa shows herself in heaps of filthy hovels, + wattle and daub and dingy thatch; in "umbrella-trees" (ficus), acacias and + calabashes, palms and cotton-trees, all wilted, stunted, and dusty as at + Cairo. We are in the latitude of East African Kilwa and of Brazilian + Pernambuco; but this is a lee-land, and the suffering is from drought. + Yet, curious to say, the flora, as will appear, is here richer than in the + well- watered eastern regions. + </p> + <p> + Steaming onwards, at one mile off shore, we turned from south- east to + south-west, and presently rounded the north-east point of Loanda Island, + where a moored boat and a lantern showed the way. We passed the first + fort, São Pedro do Morro (da Cassandama), which reminded me of the Aguada + at the mouth of Goa Harbour. The two bastions and their batteries date + from A.D. 1700, and have been useful in administering a strongish hint—in + A.D. 1826 they fired into Captain Owen. The next work is the little + four-gun work, Na. Sa. da Conceição. We anchored in five fathoms about + 1,200 yards off shore, in company with some fifteen craft, large and + small, including a neat despatch cruizer, built after the "Nimrod" model. + Fort São Francisco, called "do Penedo," because founded upon and let into + a rock, with the double-tiered batteries à la Vauban, carefully + whitewashed and subtended by any amount of dead ground, commands the + anchorage and the northern road, where strings of carregadores, like + driver-ants, fetch and carry provisions to town. A narrow causeway + connects with the gate, where blacks on guard lounge in fantastic uniform, + and below the works are the coal-sheds. Here the first turf was lately + turned by an English commodore—this tramway was intended to connect + with the water edge, and eventually to reach the Cuanza at Calumbo. So + Portugal began the rail system in West Africa. + </p> + <p> + The city was preparing for her ecclesiastical festival, and I went ashore + at once to see her at her best. The landing-place is poor and mean, and + the dusty and sandy walk is garnished with a single row of that funereal + shrub, the milky euphorbia. The first sensation came from the pillars of + an unfinished house— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Care colonne, che fate quà? + —Non sappiamo in verità!" +</pre> + <p> + The Ponta de Isabel showed the passeio, or promenade, with two brick + ruins: its "five hundred fruit-trees of various descriptions" have gone + the way of the camphor, the tea-shrub, and the incense-tree, said to have + been introduced by the Jesuits. "The five pleasant walks, of which the + central one has nine terraces, with a pyramid at each extremity, and leads + to the Casa de Recreio, or pleasure-house of the governor-general, erected + in 1817 by Governor Vice-Admiral Luiz da Motta Feio," have insensibly + faded away; the land is a waste, poor grazing ground for cattle landed + from the south coast, whilst negrokins scream and splash in the adjoining + sea. + </p> + <p> + Beyond the Government gardens appears the old Ermida (chapel), Na Sa. da + Nazareth, which English writers have dubbed, after Madeiran fashion, the + Convent. The frontage is mean as that of colonial ecclesiastical buildings + in general, and even the epauletted façades of old São Paulo do not + deserve a description. Here, according to local tradition, was buried the + head of the "intrepid and arrogant king of Congo," Dom Antonio, whose + 100,000 warriors were defeated at Ambuilla (Jan. ist, 1666) by Captain + Luiz Lopes de Sequeira, the good soldier who lost his life, by a + Portuguese hand, at the battle of Matamba (Sept. 4th, 1681). A picture in + Dutch tiles (azulejos) was placed on the right side of the altar to + commemorate the feat. + </p> + <p> + After the Ermida are more ruined houses and ragged plantations upon the + narrow shelf between the sea-cliff and the sea: they lead to the hot and + unhealthy low town skirting the harbour, a single street with small + offsets. A sandy strip spotted with cocoa-nuts, represents the Praia do + Bungo (Bungo Beach), perhaps corrupted from Bunghi, a praça, or square; it + debouches upon the Quitanda Pequena, a succursale market-place, where, on + working- days, cloth and beads, dried peppers, and watered rum are sold. + Then come a single large building containing the Trem, or arsenal, the + cavalry barracks, the "central post-office," and the alfandega, or + custom-house, which has a poor platform, but no pier. The stables lodge + some half-a-dozen horses used by mounted orderlies—they thrive, and, + to judge from their high spirits, the climate suits them. In Captain + Owen's time (A.D. 1826) there was "a respectable corps of cavalry." + </p> + <p> + Passing the acting cathedral for the See of Angola and Congo, which + deserves no notice, you reach the Quitanda Grande, where business is + brisker. There is a sufficiency of beef and mutton, the latter being + thin-tailed, and not "five-quartered." Fish is wisely preferred to meat by + the white man, "affirming that it is much easier digested;" and a kind of + herring, and the sparus known upon the Brazilian coast as the "tainha," + the West African "vela," and the French "mulet," at times superabound. All + the tropical fruits flourish, especially the orange; the exotic vegetables + are large and sightly, but tasteless and insipid, especially peas and + radishes: the indigenous, as tomatoes, are excellent, but the list is + small. Gardens are rare where the soil is so thin, and the indispensable + irrigation costs money. The people still "choke for want of water," which + must be bought: there is only one good well sunk in the upper town, about + 1840, when the Conde de Bomfim was Minister of Marine and the Colonies,—it + is a preserve for government officials. Living in the native style is + cheap; but cooks are hardly procurable, and a decent table is more + expensive than in an English country town. A single store (M. Schutz) + supplies "Europe" articles, of course at fancy prices, and here a + travelling outfit may be bought. It has been remarked that Loanda has no + shop that sells "food for the mind;" this is applicable, not only to all + East and West Africa, but to places far more progressive. A kind of + cafe-billard supplies a lounge and tepid beer. The attendants in + Portuguese houses are slaves; the few English prefer Cabindas, a rude form + of the rude Kru-boy, and the lowest pay of the lowest labourer is 5d. per + diem. + </p> + <p> + The "Calçada Nova," a fine old paved "ramp"—to speak Gibraltar- + English—connects Basse Ville and Hauteville. The latter was once a + scatter of huge if not magnificent buildings, now in ruins; we shall pass + through it en route to Calumbo. Here are the remains of the three chief + convents, the Jesuit, the Carmelite, and the Third Order of St. Francis. + The citadel de São Miguel, lately blown up, has been restored; the + extensive works of dressed freestone, carefully whitewashed, stand out + conspicuously from the dark bush dotting the escarpment top. Here also is + the Alto das Cruzes, the great cemetery, and the view from the sheer and + far-jutting headland is admirable. A stroll over this cool and + comparatively healthy escarpment ended by leaving a card at the Paço do + Governo. + </p> + <p> + Lopes de Lima (vol. iii. part ii.) gives São Paulo in 1846 a total of + 5,065 whites, mulattoes, and blacks, distributed into 1,176 hearths; the + census of 1850-51 raised the number to 12,000, including 7,000 negroes, of + whom 5,000 were serviles; in 1863 the figure was understood to have + diminished rather than to have increased. Old authors divided the + population into five orders. The first was of ecclesiastics, the second + contained those who were settled for command or trade, and the third were + convicts, especially new Christians of Jewish blood, who were prevented + from attending the sacred functions for a scandalous reason. Then ranked + the Pomberos, or Pombeiros, mostly mulattoes, free men, and buyers of + slaves; their morals seem to have been abominable. Last and least were the + natives, that is, the "chattels." Amongst the latter the men changed wives + for a time, "alleging, in case of reproof, that they are not able to eat + always of the same dish;" and the women were rarely allowed by their + mistresses to marry—with the usual results. The missionaries are + very severe upon the higher ranks of colonists. Father Carli (A.D. 1666) + found the whites the most deceitful and the wickedest of men,—an + effect caused by the penal settlement. Father Merolla (A.D. 1682) declares + that "the women, being bred among blacks, suffer themselves to be much + perverted—they scarcely retain anything white about them except + their skins." J. C. Fêo Cardoso (Memoir published in Paris in 1825) + attributes the decadence of Angola and Benguela to three reasons; rare + marriages amongst the higher orders; poverty amongst the lower; and the + immorality and incontinence of both. Lopes de Lima (p. 149 loc. cit.) + traces the decline and fall of Christianity in the eighteenth century to + the want of priests, to the corruption of the regular clergy (Carmelites + and Franciscans), for whom West Africa, like Syria and Palestine, was made + a kind of convict station, and to the inhuman slave-export, as opposed to + domestic slavery. All has now changed for the better; society in Angola is + not a whit inferior to that of any English colony in West Africa, and, as + a convict establishment, Loanda is a great success. + </p> + <p> + The theoretical garrison is one regiment of the line, a squadron of + cavalry, and two companies of artillery with three-pounders; the real + force is of some 800 men, mostly convicts. No difference is made between + white and black, nor is the corps force, which was once very cruelly used, + severely treated as the Légion Etrangère of Algeria. Most of the men have + been found guilty of capital crimes, yet they are allowed to carry arms, + and they are intrusted with charge of the forts. Violence is almost + unheard of amongst them: if an English sailor be stabbed, it is generally + by the free mulattoes and blacks, who hate the uniform for destroying + their pet trade of man-selling. It is true that these convicts have hopes + of pardon, but I prefer to attribute their remarkable gentleness and good + behaviour to the effects of the first fever, which, to quote from the + Latin grammar, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Emollit mores nec sinit esse feros." +</pre> + <p> + The negroes of Loanda struck me as unusually ill-favoured; short, + "stumpy," and very dark, or tinged with unclean yellow. Lepers and hideous + cripples thrust their sores and stumps in the face of charity. There was + no local colouring compared with the carregadores, or coolies, from the + northeast, whose thrum-mop heads and single monkey skins for fig-leaves, + spoke of the wold and the wild. The body-dress of both sexes is the tángá, + pagne, or waist-cloth, unless the men can afford trousers and ragged + shirts, and the women a "veo preto," or dingy black sheet, ungracefully + worn, like the graceful sárí of Hindostan, over the bright foulard which + confines the wool. "It is mighty ridiculous to observe," says the old + missionary, "that the women, contrary to the custom of all other nations, + buy and sell, and do all things which the men ought to do, whilst their + husbands stay at home and spin or weave cotton, or busy themselves in such + other effeminate actions." This is not wholly true in ‘63. The + "munengana,"or machila-man, is active in offering his light cane + palanquin, and he chaffs the "mean white" who is compelled to walk, + bitterly as did the sedan-chairmen of Bath before the days of Beau Nash. + Of course the Quitandeira, or market-woman, holds her own. The rest of the + street population seems to consist of negro "infantry" and black + Portuguese pigs, gaunt and long- legged. The favourite passe-temps is to + lie prone in sun or shade, chattering and smoking the cachimbo, a heavy + clay pipe, with peculiar stem—"to sleep supine," say the Arabs, "is + the position of saints; on the dexter side, of kings; on the sinister, of + learned men; and on the belly, of devils." + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter III. — The Festival—a Trip to Calumbo—portuguese + Hospitality. + </h2> + <p> + My first step after reaching S. Paolo de Loanda was to call upon Mr. + Commissioner Vredenburg, who had lately taken up the undesirable + appointment, and who, moreover, had brought a pretty French wife from + Pará. I had warned him that he was risking her life and that of her child; + he bravely made the attempt and nearly lost them both. I have reason to be + grateful to him and to Mr. Vice-consul E. H. Hewett for hospitality during + my stay at the Angolan capital. There is a place called an hotel, but it + is in the Seven Dials of the African city, and—nothing more need be + said. + </p> + <p> + Fortunately for me, as for herself, Loanda had got rid of Mr. Vredenburg's + predecessor, who soon followed the lamented Richard Brand, first British + Consul, appointed in 1844. The "real whole- hearted Englishman" was after + that modern type, of which La Grundy so highly approves. An honest man, + who does not hold to the British idea that "getting on in the world" is + Nature's first law, would be sorely puzzled by such a career. + </p> + <p> + The day after my arrival was the festival which gives to São Paulo de + Loanda its ecclesiastical name "da Assumpção." The ceremonies of the day + were duly set forth in the Boletim Official do Governo Geral da Provincia + de Angola. A military salute and peals of bells aroused us at dawn; + followed a review of the troops, white and black; and a devout procession, + flags flying and bands playing, paced through the chief streets to the + Cathedral. A visit of ceremony in uniform to the Governor- General, + Captain José Baptista de Andrade, a historic name in Angola, led to an + invitation for the evening, a pleasant soirée of both sexes. The reception + was cordial: whatever be the grievances of statesmen and historians, + lawyers and slave- mongers, Portuguese officers are always most friendly + to their English brethren. The large and airy rooms were hung with + portraits of the several dignitaries, and there was an Old World look + about Government House, like the Paço at Pangim (Goa). Fifty years ago + colonial society was almost entirely masculine; if you ever met a white + woman it was in a well-curtained manchila surrounded by "mucambas" or + "mucacamas, negro waiting maids:" as the old missioner tells us, "when + they go abroad, which is seldom, they are carried in a covered net with + attendance of captives." All this is changed, except as regards leaving + the house, which is never done during the day: constitutionals are not + wanted in the tropics, and the negroes everywhere make the streets unfit, + except for any but the very strongest-minded of the weaker sex. The + evenings at Government House are passed with music and dancing, and petits + jeux innocents for the juniors, whilst the seniors talk and play voltarete + till midnight. I well remember one charming face, but I fear to talk about + it—ten years in Africa cannot pass without the saddest changes. + </p> + <p> + With an eye to future exploration, I was anxious to see something of the + style of travel in Angola, and to prospect the proposed line of railway + intended to checkmate the bar of the river Cuanza. The Cassange (Kasanjí) + war on the eastern frontier had just ended honourably to Portuguese arms, + but it proved costly; the rich traffic of the interior had fallen off, and + the well- known Feira was sending down its fairings to independent + Kinsembo. Moreover, in order to raise funds for the rail, the local + Government talked of granting the land to an English company for growing + the highly prized gossypium arboreum. + </p> + <p> + Sr. João Soares Caldeira, C.E., kindly asked me to join his party, which + started early on August 19. All rode the tipoia, a mere maca or hammock + sadly heating to the back, but handier than the manchila: the bearers wore + loose waistbelts, with a dozen small sheep's bells on the crupper, + intended to proclaim our importance, and supposed to frighten away wild + beasts. These gentry often require the stimulus of "ndokwe" (go on), but + seldom the sedative of "malemba" (gently) or "quinga" (stop). The "boi- + cavallo," the riding bull (not ox) of the interior, which costs about £4, + is never used in these fashionable localities. I failed to remark the line + of trenches supposed to defend the land-side, but I did remark the + "maiangas," said to be indigo vats made by the Jesuits. After a hot + depression we ascended a rough zigzag, and halting we enjoyed a charming + view of St. Paul. The domed Morro concealing the squalid lower town was + crowned with once lordly buildings—cathedral, palace, treasury, and + fort; the colours of the ground-swell were red and white, with here and + there a dot of green; and the blue sea rose in its loveliness beyond the + hill horizon. For a whole league we were in the region of "arimos," or + outside farms, where villages, villas, and plantations, threaded by hot + and sandy lanes with hedges of green euphorbia, showed the former + prosperity of the country. Beyond it the land forms, as in Yoruba, lines + of crescents bulging west or seaward, quartz and pebbles showing here and + there an old true coast. + </p> + <p> + After a five hours' ride we reached Cavúa, the half-way house, where + breakfast had been sent on; the habitations are wretched thatches, crowded + with pigs and mosquitoes. Clearings had all ended, and the red land formed + broken waves of poor soil, almost nude of vegetation at this mid-winter of + the tropics, except thickets of "milk plant" and forests of quadrangular + cactus; the latter are quaint as the dragon-tree, some twenty feet tall + and mostly sun-scorched to touchwood. The baobab (adansonia) is apparently + of two kinds, the "Imbundeiro," hung with long- stringed calabashes, which + forms swarming-places for bees; and the "Aliconda" (Nkondo), whose gourd + is almost sessile, and whose bark supplies fibre for cloth and ropes. The + haskúl or big-aloe of Somali-land was not absent, and, amongst other wild + fruits, I saw scattered over the ground the husks of a strychnine, like + the east African species. Deer, hares, and partridges are spoken of in + these solitudes, but they must be uncommonly hard to find at such a + season. + </p> + <p> + About three hours after leaving Cavúa were spent upon this high, dry, and + healthy desert, when suddenly we sighted the long reaches of the Cuanza + River, sharply contrasting, like the Nile, with the tawny yellow grounds + about its valley. A steep descent over water-rolled pebbles showed the old + bank; the other side, far and blue, gave a goodly breadth of five miles; + then we plunged into the green selvage of the modern stream, following + muddy paths where the inundation had extended last June. Here tobacco, + orchilla, and indigo in the higher, and sugar-cane, rice, and ricinus on + the lower lands flourish to perfection. The Angolan orchilla was first + sent to Lisbon by Sr. F. R. Batalha: it is a moss, like the tillandsia of + the Southern United States, and I afterwards recognized it in the island + of Annobom. Passing Pembe and other outlying hamlets, after nine hours of + burning sun, we entered Calumbo Town, and were hospitably lodged by the + Portuguese Commandant. We had followed the highway, as a line for the + intended railway had not yet been marked out, and the distance measured + 33,393 metres (= 20.75 English miles). + </p> + <p> + Calumbo is now a poor place, with a few dilapidated stone houses in a mass + of wattle and daub huts, surrounded by large "arimos." The whole + "Districto da Barra do Calumbo" contains only 444 hearths. A little stone + pier, which Loanda wants, projects into the stream; the lime was formerly + procured from shells, but in 1761 calcareous stone was found near the + Dande stream. The sightliest part is the vegetation, glorious ceibas + (bombax) used for dug-outs; baobabs, tamarinds which supply cooling fruit + and distilled waters; limes and bitter oranges. The most remarkable growth + is the kaju or cashew nut: an old traveller quaintly describes it "as like + St. John's apple with a chestnut at the end of it." M. Valdez ("Six Years + of a Traveller's Life," vol. ii. 267), calls it "a strange kind of fruit," + though it was very familiar to his cousins in the Brazil, of which it is + an aborigine. Here it is not made into wine as at Goa: "Kaju-brandy" is + unknown, and the gum, almost equal to that of the acacia, is utterly + neglected. A dense and shady avenue of these trees, ten paces apart, leads + from the river to the parish church of S. José, mentioned by Carli in + 1666: an inscription informs us that it was rebuilt in 1850, but the + patron is stored away in a lumber-room, and the bats have taken the place + of the priest. Portugal has perhaps gone too far in abolishing these + church establishments, but it is a reaction which will lead to the golden + mean. + </p> + <p> + The site of Calumbo is well chosen, commanding a fine view, and raised + above the damps of the cold Cuanza, whose stagnant lagoon, the Lagôa do + Muge on the other side, is divided from the main branch by a low islet + with palms and some cultivation. At the base of Church Hill are huts of + the Mubiri or blacksmiths, who gipsy-like wander away when a tax is + feared; they are not despised, but they are considered a separate caste. I + was shown a little north of the town a place where the Dutch, true to + their national instincts, began a canal to supply Loanda with sweet and + wholesome drinking material and water communication; others place it with + more probability near the confluence of the Cuanza and the Lucala, the + first great northern fork, where Massangano was built by the + Conquistadores. This "leat" was left incomplete, the terminus being three + miles from St. Paul's; the Governor-General José de Oliveira Barbosa, + attempted to restore it, but was prevented by considerations of cost. + </p> + <p> + Calumbo must be a gruesome place to all except its natives. Whilst Loanda + has improved in climate since Captain Owen's day (1826), this has become + deadly as Rome in 1873. The raw mists in early morning and the hot suns, + combined with the miasmas of the retreating waters, sometimes produce a + "carneirado" (bilious remittent) which carries off half the inhabitants. + Dysenteries are everywhere dangerous between the Guinea Coast and + Mossamedes, the cause being vile water. All the people looked very sickly; + many wore milongos, Fetish medicines in red stripes, and not a few had + whitewashed faces in token of mourning. I observed that my Portuguese + companions took quinine as a precaution. Formerly a few foreign merchants + were settled here, but they found the hot seasons fatal, and no wonder, + with 130° (F.) in the shade! The trade from the upper river, especially + from the Presidio das Pedras Negras de Pungo Andongo,<a href="#linknote-2" + name="linknoteref-2" id="linknoteref-2"><small>2</small></a> consists of + hides, cattle tame and wild (cefos); saltpetre washed from earth in + sieves, mucocote or gum anime (copal), said by Lopes de Lima to be found + in all the forests of Pungo Andongo; wax, white and yellow; oil of the + dendêm (Elaïs Guineënsis) and mandobim, here called ginguba (arachis); + mats, manioc-flour, and sometimes an ivory. + </p> + <p> + Calumbo was built as early as 1577 by the Conquistador Porcador and first + Capitão Mór Paulo Dias II., a gallant soldier, who died in 1589 at + Massangano, the "Presidium," which he had founded between 1580-83, and who + was buried in the Church of Na. Sa. da Vittoria; he is said also to have + built the Church of Santa Cruz. Equidistant from Loanda and the sea, the + settlement soon had a wealthy trade with the fortified stations of the + interior, and large Government stores filled with merchandize. In 1820 a + number of schooners, pinnaces, and small crafts plied up and down to + Muchimo, Massangano, Cambembe, and other inland settlements; now we find + out only a few canoes. The Cuanza at "Sleepers' Bay" has one of the worst + shifting bars on the whole coast. At this distance, five leagues from the + mouth, its width is one hundred fathoms, and the depth varies from eight + to nine. It breeds good fish; the manatus is common, people talk of + fresh-water sharks, and the jacare (crocodile) is fatal to many a pig even + in the village. It is navigable for schooners, they say, six days, or 150 + miles, to the large "Presidio de Cambembe," where Andrew Battel + (1589-1600) visited a "perpendicular water-fall, which made such a noise + as to be heard thirty miles' distance." This and another water-fall higher + up are laid down in the map of Dr. Livingstone's admirable first journey. + Above Cambembe the river- bed is broken by archipelagoes, and the shoals + render it fit only for boats. The Cuanza head has been explored only + lately, although a royal order to that effect was issued on March 14, + 1800. + </p> + <p> + After receiving and returning the visits of the principal whites, all + habited in frocks and continuations of the blackest and heaviest + broadcloth, we feasted with the excellent commandant, who was hospitality + itself. The mosquitoes soon roused us from any attempt at sleep, and we + passed the night after a fashion which sometimes leads to red eyes and + "hot coppers" in the morning. I left early, for my companions had business + at Calumbo; as they were no longer present to control the bearers, a race + soft as putty, and I was not used to manage them, the gang became + unbearable. The soldier sent to keep them in order did his best with his + "supple-jack," and the consequence was that all bolted into the bush. At + Cavúa two men were forcibly enlisted, but I preferred walking in. When at + home in the Red House (Mr. Hewett's) the hammock men came complaining of + my deserting them, and begging bakhshish. + </p> + <p> + It was another lesson to me—the Gaboon had lately administered one—that, + however well you may know the negro generally, each tribe requires a + specific study. This, however, would not take long, and with a little + knowledge of the language there would be no difficulty in following the + footsteps of Joaquim Rodrigues Graça; letters would be required to the + several commandants, the season of setting out should be in early Cacimbo + (April), and the up march would take six months, with about four to + return. But, unless active measures are adopted, only the seaboard will + remain to the Portuguese. This is an exploration which I had kept "dark" + for myself; but Captain von Homeyer has gained the day, and nothing + remains for me but to give the gallant officer God speed. After a short + but exceedingly pleasant visit, I left the capital of Angola with regret. + All seemed anxious to further my views of travel; the authorities gave me + the very best advice, and offered me introductions to all the district + commandants, Sr. Moses Abecasis, and Sr. Francisco A. Flores, Sir Henry + Huntley's host, obliged me with recommendations to the most influential + agents at Porto da Lenha on the Congo River. Mr. Essex of St. Helena + placed me in the hands of his compatriot, Mr. Scott, and Captain Hoskins, + R.N., ended his kindness with ordering for me a passage on board H.M. + Steamship "Griffon," an old acquaintance in the Gaboon River. Briefly, I + quitted São Paulo with the best wishes for one and all who had befriended + me. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IV. — The Cruise along Shore—the Granite Pillar of + Kinsembo. + </h2> + <p> + On August 22nd we left Loanda, and attacked the 180 miles separating it + from the Congo mouth. Steaming along shore we enjoyed the vanishing + perspective of the escarpment disappearing in the misty distance. The + rivers Bengo, Dande, and Onze are denoted by densely wooded fissures + breaking the natural sea-wall, and, as usual in West Africa, these lines + are the favourite sites for settlements. The Onze or the Lifune of Mazula + Bay—which the Hydrographic Chart (republished March 18, 1869) + changes into "River Mazulo," and makes the mouth of the "River Onzo"—is + chosen by Bowdich and writers of his day as the northern boundary of + Angola, greatly to the disgust of the Portuguese, whose pretensions extend + much farther north. Volumes of daily smoke and + </p> + <p> + 048—- nightly flame suggest the fires of St. John lighted by the + goatherds of Tenerife. They greatly excite the gallant "Griffons," who + everywhere see slaver-signals, and the system is old upon this coast as + the days of Hanno and Herodotus. At this season they are an infallible + sign that the dries are ending; the women burn the capim (tall grass) for + future forage, and to manure the land for manioc, maize, and beans. The + men seek present "bush-beef:" as the flames blow inland, they keep to + seaward, knowing that game will instinctively and infallibly break cover + in that direction, and they have learned the "wrinkle" of the prairie + traveller to make a "little Zoar" in case of accidental conflagration. + </p> + <p> + At 2 P.M. on the 24th we were abreast of Ambriz, an important settlement, + where a tall red and white cliff, with a background of broken blue hill, + showed a distinct "barra," or river mouth, not to be confounded with the + English "bar." The north point of the Rio dos Ambres, of the "green" or + "raw copal," is low and mangrove-grown, throwing into high relief its + sister formation, Ambriz Head or Strong-Tide Corner, which stands up gaunt + and bluff. + </p> + <p> + A little to the south-east lies the fort, flying the argent and azure + flag, and garrisoned by some 200 men; five large whitewashed houses and + the usual bunch of brown huts compose the settlement. This nest of slavers + was temporarily occupied in May 15, 1855. The Governor-General, Senor + Coelho de Amaral, reinforced by 1,000 soldiers from home, and levying + 2,500 "Empacasseiros,"<a href="#linknote-3" name="linknoteref-3" + id="linknoteref-3"><small>3</small></a> embarked from Loanda in the "Dorn + Fernando" frigate, landed here, once more burnt the barracoons, and built + the fort. In 1856 a force was sent under Colonel Francisco Salles + Ferreira, to re-open a communication with the Bembe mines of copper and + malachite. That energetic officer marched on São Salvador, the old capital + of Congo, and crowned Dom Pedro V., whose predecessor died the year + before. He there fell a victim to fever, and his second in command, Major + Andrade, was nearly cut off on his return. Shortly afterwards the natives + blockaded, but were driven from, Bembe, and they attempted in vain to + carry Ambriz. + </p> + <p> + The far-famed copper mines were granted to the Portuguese in the sixteenth + century by the King of Congo. They were the property of his feudatory, the + (black) "Marquess of Pemba" (Bembe): Barbot mentions their being mistaken + for gold, and feels himself bound to warn his readers that the metal was + brought "from Sondy, not from Abyssinia or the empire of Prester John." + They lost all their mystery about A.D. 1855, when they were undertaken by + an English company, Messrs. John Taylor & Co. of London, after + agreement with the concessionists, Messrs. Francisco A. Flores and Pinto + Perez of Loanda. Between Ambriz and Bembe, on the Lunguila (Lufula?) + River, and 770 feet above sea-level, the Angolan government built four + presidios, Matuta, Quidilla, Quileala, and Quimalenco. But the garrison + was not strong enough to keep the country quiet, and the climate proved + deadly to white men. The 24 sappers and 60 linesmen extracted nearly 4,000 + lbs. of gangue per diem, when the English manager and his assistant, with + four of the ten miners died, and the plant was destroyed by fire. I was + assured that this line (Ambriz-Bembe) was an easy adit to the interior, + and so far the information is confirmed by the late Livingstone-Congo + Expedition under Lieutenant Grandy. + </p> + <p> + In 1863 the coast was still in confusion. The Portuguese claimed too much + seaboard according to the British: the British government ignored the just + claims of Portugal, and the political bickerings were duly embittered by a + demoralized race of English traders, who perpetually applied for cruisers, + complaining that the troops interfered with their trade. Even in the + seventeenth century the Portuguese had asserted their rights to the Reino + do Congo, extending between the great stream of that name and the Ambriz, + also called the Loge and Doce River. In the older maps— for + instance, Lopes de Lima—the Loge is an independent stream placed + north of the Ambriz River; in fact, it represents the Rue or Lue River of + Kinsembo, which is unknown to our charts. Within the Doce and the Cuanza + lies the Reino de Angola, of which, they say, the Congo was a dependency, + and south of the Cuanza begins the Reino de Benguela. The + Government-General of Loanda thus contained four provinces-Congo (now + reduced to Ambriz), Angola, Benguela, and Mossamedes. The English + government has now agreed to recognize the left or southern bank of the + Ambriz as the northern frontier of Angola and of Portuguese rule. + </p> + <p> + Passing the river mouth, we were alongside of independent lands, and new + to us. Boobies (Pelecanus sula), gulls, petrels, and men- of-war birds (P. + aquila), flew about the ship; according to the experts, they were bound + for fetid marshes which outlie the Loge River. Before nightfall we were + off the Lue or Rue River of Kinsembo, which disputes with Landána (not + "Landano"<a href="#linknote-4" name="linknoteref-4" id="linknoteref-4"><small>4</small></a>) + the palm of bad landing. At this season boats are + </p> + <p> + 052—- sometimes kept waiting fourteen days, and the "barreiras" + (cliffs) are everywhere at unbounded war with the waters. I determined to + land and to inspect the "remarkable lofty granite pillar," which was dimly + visible from our deck; but we rowed in vain along the tall and rusty + sea-walls. No whaler could attack the huge rollers that raised their + monstrous backs, plunged over with a furious roar, and bespread the beach + with a swirl of foam. At last, seeing a fine surf-boat, artistically + raised at stern and bow, and manned by Cabindas, the Kruboys of the coast, + made fast to a ship belonging to Messrs. Tobin of Liverpool, we boarded + it, and obtained a passage. + </p> + <p> + The negroes showed their usual art. Paddling westward they rounded the + high red and white South Point, where a projecting reef broke the rollers. + We waited for some twenty minutes for a lull; at the auspicious moment + every throat was strained by a screaming shout, and the black backs bent + doughtily to their work. We were raised like infants in the nurse's arms; + the good craft was flung forward with the seething mass, and as she + touched shore we sprang out, whilst our conveyance was beached by a crowd + of stragglers. The dreaded bar is as usual double: in the heaviest weather + boats make for a solitary palm-tree at the bottom of the sandy bay. Some + of the dug-outs are in pairs like the Brazilian Ajoujo; the sides are + lashed together or fastened by thwarts, and both are made to bend a little + too much inwards. + </p> + <p> + It was dark when we climbed up the stiff Jacob's ladder along the landward + side of the white Kinsembo bluff. There are three ramps: the outermost is + fit only for unshod feet; the central is better for those who can squeeze + through the rocky crevices, and the furthest is tolerably easy; but it can + be reached only by canoeing across the stream. Mr. Hunter of Messrs. + Tobin's house received us in the usual factory of the South Coast, a + ground- floor of wicker-work, windowless, and thatched after native + fashion. The chief agent, who shall be nameless, was drunk arid + disorderly: it is astonishing that men of business can trust their money + to such irresponsible beings; he had come out to Blackland a teetotaller, + and presently his condition became a living lecture upon geographical + morality. + </p> + <p> + The night gave us a fine study of the Kinsembo mosquito, a large brown + dipter, celebrated even upon this coast. A barrel of water will act as + nursery; at times the plagues are said to extinguish a lantern, and to lie + an inch deep at the bottom. I would back them against a man's life after + two nights of full exposure: the Brazilian "Marimbondo" is not worse. At 7 + A.M. on the next day we descended the easiest of the ramps, which are + common upon this coast, and were paddled over the Kinsembo River. Eleven + miles off, it issues from masses of high ground, and at this season it + spreads out like the Ambriz in broad stagnant sheets, bordered with reeds + and grass supplying fish and crabs, wild ducks and mosquitoes. Presently, + when the Cacimbo ends in stormy rains and horrid rollers, its increased + volume and impetus will burst the sand-strip which confines it, and the + washed-away material will recruit the terrible bar. + </p> + <p> + Leaving the ferry, wre mounted the "tipoias," which Englishmen call + "hammocks" after the Caribs of Jamaica, and I found a strange contrast + between the men of Kinsembo and of São Paulo. The former are admirable + bearers, like their brethren of Ambrizette, famed as the cream of the + coast: four of them carried us at the rate of at least six miles an hour; + apparently they cannot go slowly, and they are untireable as black ants. + Like the Bahian cadeira-men, they use shoulder-pads, and forked sticks to + act as levers when shifting; the bamboo-pole has ivory pegs, to prevent + the hammock-clews slipping, and the sensation is somewhat that of being + tossed in a blanket. + </p> + <p> + Quitting the creeper-bound sand, we crossed a black and fetid mire, and + struck inland to a higher and drier level. The vegetation was that of the + Calumbo road, but not so utterly sunburnt: there were dwarf fields of + Manioc and Thur (Cajanus indicus), and the large wild cotton shrubs showed + balls of shortish fibre. As we passed a euphorbia-hedged settlement, + Kizúlí yá Mú, "Seabeach Village," a troop of women and girls, noisy as + those of Ugogo, charged us at full gallop: a few silver bits caused + prodigious excitement in the liberal display of charms agitated by hard + exercise. The men were far less intrusive, they are said not to be jealous + of European rivals, but madly so amongst themselves: even on suspicion of + injury, the husband may kill his wife and her lover. + </p> + <p> + At Kilwanika, the next hamlet, there was a "king;" and it would not have + been decent to pass the palace unvisited. Outside the huts stood a + bamboo-girt "compound," which we visited whilst H.M. was making his + toilette, and where, contrary to Congo usage, the women entered with us. + Twenty-two boys aged nine or ten showed, by faces whitened with ashes, + that they had undergone circumcision, a ceremony which lasts three months: + we shall find these Jinkimba in a far wilder state up the Congo. The rival + house is the Casa das Tinta, where nubile girls are decorated by the + Nganga, or medicine-man, with a greasy crimson-purple pigment and, + preparatory to entering the holy state of matrimony, receive an exhaustive + lecture upon its physical phases. Father Merolla tells us that the + Congoese girls are locked up in pairs for two or three months out of the + sight of man, bathing several times a day, and applying "taculla," the + moistened dust of a red wood; without this "casket of water" or "of fire," + as they call it, barrenness would be their lot. After betrothal the bride + was painted red by the "man-witch" for one month, to declare her + engagement, and the mask was washed off before nuptials. Hence the "Paint + House" was a very abomination to the good Fathers. Amongst the Timni + tribe, near Sierra Leone, the Semo, or initiation for girls, begins with a + great dance, called Colungee (Kolangí), and the bride is "instructed + formally in such circumstances as most immediately concern women." + </p> + <p> + After halting for half an hour, ringed by a fence of blacks, we were + summoned to the presence, where we found a small boy backed by a + semi-circle of elders, and adorned with an old livery coat, made for a + full-grown "Jeames." With immense dignity, and without deigning to look at + us, he extended a small black paw like a Chimpanzee's, and received in + return a promise of rum—the sole cause of our detention. And, as we + departed through the euphorbia avenue, we were followed by the fastest + trotters, the Flora Temples and the Ethan Allens, of the village. + </p> + <p> + Beyond Kilwanika the land became rougher and drier, whilst the swamps + between the ground-waves were deeper and stickier, the higher ridges + bearing natural Stonehenges, of African, not English, proportions At last + we dismounted, ascended a rise, the most northerly of these "Aravat + Hills," and stood at the base of the "Lumba" The Pillar of Kmsembo is + composed of two huge blocks, not basaltic, but of coarse-grained reddish + granite the base measures twenty and the shaft forty feet high. With a + little trimming it might be converted into a superior Pompey's Pillar: we + shall see many of these monoliths in different parts of the Congo country. + </p> + <p> + The heat of the day was passed in the shade of the Lumba, enjoying the + sea-breeze and the novel view. It was debated whether we should return viâ + Masera, a well-known slaving village, whose barracoons were still + standing. But the bearers dissuaded us, declaring that they might be + seized as "dash," unless the white men paid heavy "comey" like those who + shipped black cargoes: they cannot shake off this old practice of claiming + transit money. So we returned without a halt, covering some twelve of the + roughest miles in two hours and a quarter. + </p> + <p> + The morning of the 26th showed an ugly sight from the tall Kinsembo cliff. + As far as the eye could reach long green-black lines, fronted and + feathered with frosted foam, hurried up to the war with loud merciless + roars, and dashed themselves in white destruction against the reefs and + rock-walls. We did not escape till the next day. + </p> + <p> + Kinsembo does not appear upon the old maps, and our earliest hydrographic + charts place it six miles wrong.<a href="#linknote-5" name="linknoteref-5" + id="linknoteref-5"><small>5</small></a> The station was created in 1857-61 + by the mistaken policy of Loanda, which determined to increase the customs + three per cent, and talked of exacting duties at Ambriz, not according to + invoice prices, but upon the value which imported goods represented + amongst the natives. It was at once spread abroad that the object was to + drive the wax and ivory trade to São Paulo, and to leave Ambriz open to + slavers. The irrepressible Briton transferred himself to Kinsembo, and + agreed to pay the king £9 in kind, after "country fashion," for every + ship. In 1857 the building of the new factories was opposed by the + Portuguese, and was supported by English naval officers, till the two + governments came to an arrangement. In February, 1860, the Kinsembo people + seized an English factory, and foully murdered a Congo prince and + Portuguese subject, D. Nicoláo de Agua Rosada, employed in the Treasury + Department, Ambriz. Thereupon the Governor-General sent up two vessels, + with thirty guns and troops; crossed the Loge River, now a casus belli; + and, on March 3rd, burned down the inland town of Kinsembo. On the return + march the column debouched upon the foreign factories. About one mile in + front of the point, Captain Brerit, U.S. Navy, and Commander A. G. + Fitzroy, R.N., had drawn up 120 of their men by way of guard. Leave was + asked by the Portuguese to refresh their troops, and to house six or seven + wounded men. The foreign agents, headed by a disreputable M—M—, + now dead, protested, and, after receiving this unsoldierlike refusal, the + Portuguese, harassed by the enemy, continued their return march to Ambriz. + The natives of this country have an insane hate for their former + conquerors, and can hardly explain why: probably the cruelties of the + sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, not peculiar to the Lusitanians, have + rankled in the national memory. A stray Portuguese would infallibly be put + to death, and it will, I fear, be long before M. Valdez sees "spontaneous + declarations of vassalage on the part of the King of Molembo (Malemba) and + others." + </p> + <p> + In 1860 the trade of Kinsembo amounted to some £50,000, divided amongst + four houses, two English, one American, and one Rotterdam (Pencoff and + Kerdyk). The Cassange war greatly benefited the new station by diverting + coffee and other produce of the interior from Loanda. There are + apochryphal tales of giant tusks brought from a five months' journey, say + 500 miles, inland. I was shown two species of copal (gum anime) of which + the best is said to come from the Mosul country up the Ambriz River: one + bore the goose-skin of Zanzibar, and I was assured that it does not + viscidize in the potash-wash. The other was smooth as if it had freshly + fallen from the tree. It was impossible to obtain any information; no one + had been up country to see the diggings, and yet all declared that the + interior was open; that it would be easy to strike the Coango (Quango) + before it joins the Congo River, and that 150 miles, which we may perhaps + reduce by a third, would lodge the traveller in the unknown lands of + "Hnga." + </p> + <p> + Bidding kindly adieu to Mr. Hunter and wishing him speedy deliverance from + his dreadful companion, we resumed our travel over the now tranquil main. + Always to starboard remained the narrow sea-wall, a length without breadth + which we had seen after the lowlands of Cape Lopez, coloured rosy, + rusty-red, or white, and sometimes backed by a second sierra of low blue + rises, which suggests the sanatorium. Forty miles showed us the tall trees + of Point Palmas on the northern side of the Conza River; on the south of + the gap-like mouth lies the Ambrizette settlement, with large factories, + Portuguese and American, gleaming against the dark verdure, and with Conza + Hill for a background. The Cabeça de Cobra, or "Margate Head," led to + Makula, alias Mangal, or Mangue Grande, lately a clump of trees and a + point; now the site of English, American, and Dutch factories. Here the + hydrographic charts of 1827 and 1863 greatly vary, and one has + countermarched the coast-line some 75 miles: Beginning with the Congo + River, it lays down Mangue Pegueno (where Grande should be), Cobra, and + Mangue Grande (for Pequeno) close to Ambrizette. Then hard ahead rose Cape + Engano, whose "deceit" is a rufous tint, which causes many to mistake it + for Cape or Point Padrão. To-morrow, as the dark-green waters tell us, we + shall be in the Congo River. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter V. — Into the Congo River.—the Factories.—trip + to Shark's Point.—the Padrão and Pinda. + </h2> + <p> + The best preparation for a first glance at the Congo River is to do as all + do, to study the quaint description which old Purchas borrowed from the + "Chronica da Companhia de Jesus em Portugal." + </p> + <p> + "The Zaire is of such force that no ship can get in against the current + but near to the shore; yea, it prevails against the ocean's saltness + three-score, and as some say, four-score miles within the sea, before his + proud waves yield their full homage, and receive that salt temper in token + of subjection. Such is the haughty spirit of that stream, overrunning the + low countries as it passeth, and swollen with conceit of daily conquests + and daily supplies, which, in armies of showers, are, by the clouds, sent + to his succour, runnes now in a furious rage, thinking even to swallow the + ocean, which before he never saw, with his mouth wide gaping + eight-and-twenty miles, as Lopez<a href="#linknote-6" name="linknoteref-6" + id="linknoteref-6"><small>6</small></a> affirmeth, in the opening; but + meeting with a more giant-like enemie which lies lurking under the cliffes + to receive his assault, is presently swallowed in that wider womb, yet so + as, always being conquered, he never gives over, but in an eternall + quarrel, with deeper and indented frownes in his angry face, foaming with + disclaine, and filling the aire with noise (with fresh helpe), supplies + those forces which the salt sea hath consumed." + </p> + <p> + I was disappointed after the Gambia and Gaboon rivers in the approach to + the Congo. About eight miles south of the mouth the green sea changed to a + clear brown which will be red during the flood. Some three degrees (F. 79° + to 82°) cooler than the salt tide, the lighter water, which was fresh as + rain, feathered out like a fan; a rippling noise was faintly audible, and + the clear lines of white foam had not time to melt into the coloured + efflux. The flow was diverted into a regular curve northwards by the South + Atlantic current; voyagers from Ascension Island to the north-west + therefore feel the full throb of the great riverine pulse, and it has been + recognized, they say, at a distance of 300 miles. Lopez, Merolla, and + Dapper<a href="#linknote-7" name="linknoteref-7" id="linknoteref-7"><small>7</small></a> + agree that the Congo freshens the water at thirty miles from the mouth, + and that it can be distinguished thirty leagues off. The Amazonas tinges + the sea along the Guiana coast 200 miles, and the effect of the Ganges + extends to about twenty leagues. At this season, of course, we saw none of + the floating islands which during the rains sail out sixty to seventy + leagues from land. "Tuckey's Expedition" informs us, that the Hon. Captain + Irby, H.M.S. "Amelia," when anchored twelve miles from the South Point, in + fifteen fathoms, "observed on the ocean large floating islands covered + with trees and bushes, which had been torn from the banks by the violent + current." The Journal of Captain Scobell, H.M.S. "Thais," remarks: "In + crossing this stream I met several floating islands or broken masses from + the banks of that noble river." We shall find them higher up the bed, only + forming as the inundation begins; I doubt, however, that at any time they + equal the meadows which stud the mouth of the Rio Formoso (Benin River). + </p> + <p> + Historic Point Padrao, the "Mouta Seca," or Dry Bush, of the modern + Portuguese, showed no signs of hospitality. The fierce rollers of the + spumous sea broke and recoiled, foaming upon the sandy beach, which they + veiled with a haze of water-dust, almost concealing the smoke that curled + from the mangrove-hedged "King Antonio's Town." Then, steaming to the + north-east, we ran five miles to Turtle Cove, formerly Turtle Corner, a + shallow bay, whose nearest point is "Twitty Twa Bush," the baptismal + effort of some English trader. And now appeared the full gape of the Congo + mouth, yawning seven sea-miles wide; the further shore trending to the + north-west in a low blue line, where Moanda and Vista, small + "shipping-ports" for slaves, were hardly visible in the hazy air. As we + passed the projecting tooth of Shark Point, a sandspit garnished with + mangroves and dotted with palmyras, the land-squali flocked from their + dirty-brown thatches to the beach, where flew the symbolic red flag. + Unlike most other settlements, which are so buried in almost impenetrable + bush that the traveller may pass by within a few yards without other sign + but the human voice, this den of thieves and wreckers, justly named in + more ways than one, flaunts itself in the face of day. + </p> + <p> + The Congo disclaims a bore, but it has a very distinct bar, the angle + pointing up stream, and the legs beginning about Bananal Bank (N.) and + Alligator River (S.). Here the great depth above and below (145 and 112 + fathoms) shallows to 6-9. Despite the five-knot current we were + "courteously received into the embraces of the river;" H.M. Steamship + "Griffon" wanted no "commanding sea-breeze," she found none of the + difficulties which kept poor Tuckey's "brute of a transport" drifting and + driving for nearly a week before he could anchor off Fuma or Sherwood's + Creek, the "Medusa" of modern charts (?) and which made Shark Point, with + its three-mile current, a "more redoubtable promontory than that of Good + Hope was to early navigators." We stood boldly E.N.E. towards the high + blue clump known as Bulambemba, and, with the dirty yellow breakers of + Mwáná Mazia Bank far to port, we turned north to French Point, and + anchored in a safe bottom of seven fathoms. + </p> + <p> + Here we at once saw the origin of the popular opinion that the Congo has + no delta. On both sides, the old river valley, 32 miles broad, is marked + out by grassy hills rolling about 200 feet high, trending from E.N.E. to + W.S.W., and forming on the right bank an acute angle with the Ghats. But, + whilst the northern line approaches within five or six miles, the southern + bank, which diverges about the place where "King Plonly's town" appears in + charts, sweeps away some seventeen miles down coast, and leaves a wide + tract of mangrove swamps. These, according to the Portuguese traders, who + have their own plans of the river, extend some seventy miles south to + Ambrizette: slavers keep all such details very close, and doubtless for + good reasons—"short-cuts" greatly facilitate shipping negroes. The + lesser Congo delta is bounded north by the Banana or Malela stream, whose + lower fork is "Pirates' Creek;" and south by the mangrove-clad drains, + which subtend the main line: the base measures 12-15 miles. At the highest + station, Boma, I shall have something to say about the greater delta. The + left bank of the embouchure projects further seaward, making it look + "under hung," representing in charts a lower jaw, and the projection of + Shark Point the teeth, en profile. + </p> + <p> + My first care was to collect news at the factories. French Point is a long + low spit, which supports two establishments where the chart (September + 1859) gives "Emigration Depot." It is the old Banana Point, and probably + the older Palmeirinha Point of James Barbot, who places it in the + territory of Goy (Ngoy), now Cabinda. This part has greatly changed since + 1859; either the Banana River requires removing two miles to the north, or + French Point must be placed an equal distance south. The principal + establishment, M. Régis' of Marseilles, is built in his best style; a + two-storied and brilliantly "chunam'd" house, containing a shop and store + on the ground-floor, defended by a three- pounder. Behind it a square + "compound," with high walls, guards the offices and the other requisites + of a bar racoon. It is fronted by a little village where "Laptots," + Senegal Moslems, and men-at-arms live with their families and slaves. In + the rear stands the far more modest and conscientious establishment of + Messrs. Pencoff and Kerdyk: their plank bungalow is full of work, whilst + the other lies idle; so virtue here is not, as in books, its own reward. + </p> + <p> + M. Victor Parrot, the young Swiss agent of M. Régis, hospitably asked us + to take up our quarters with him, and promised to start us up stream + without delay; his employer fixes the tariff of every article, and no + discretion is left to the subordinates. We called upon M. Elkman of the + Dutch factory. His is a well-known name on the river, and, though familiar + with the people, he has more than once run some personal risk by assisting + our cruizers to make captures. He advised us to lose no time in setting + out before the impending rains: I wanted, however, a slight preparation + for travel, and determined to see something of the adjoining villages, + especially the site of the historic Padrão. + </p> + <p> + Whilst crossing the stream, we easily understood how the river was + supposed to be in a perpetual state of inundation. The great breadth and + the shallows near either jaw prevent the rain-floods being perceptible + unless instruments are used, and "hydrometry," still in an imperfect + state, was little to be depended upon in the days when European ideas + concerning the Congo River were formed. Twenty miles up stream the + high-water mark becomes strongly marked, and further on, as will be seen, + it shows even better. + </p> + <p> + If Barbot's map have any claim to correctness, the southern shore has + changed greatly since A.D. 1700. A straight line from Cape Padrão to + Chapel Point, now Shark Point, was more than double the breadth of the + embouchure. It is vain to seek for the "Island of Calabes" mentioned by + Andrew Battel, who was "sent to a place called Zaire on the River Congo, + to trade for elephants' teeth, wheat, and palm oil." It may be a mistake + for Cavallos, noticed in the next chapter; but the "town on it" must have + been small, and has left, they say, no traces. After a scramble through + the surf, we were received at Shark Point, where, at this season, the + current is nearer five than three knots, by Mr. Tom Peter, Mafuka, or + chief trader, amongst these "Musurungus." He bore his highly respectable + name upon the frontal band of his "berretta" alias "corôa," an open-worked + affair, very like the old-fashioned jelly-bag night cap. This head-gear of + office made of pine-apple fibre— Tuckey says grass—costs ten + shillings; it is worn by the kinglets, who now distribute it to all the + lieges whose fortunes exceed some fifty dollars. + </p> + <p> + Most of the Squaline villagers appeared to be women, the men being engaged + in making money elsewhere. Besides illicit trade, which has now become + very dangerous, a little is done in the licit line: grotesquely carved + sticks, calabashes rudely ornamented with ships and human figures, the + neat bead-work grass-strings used by the women to depress the bosom, and + cashimbos or pipes mostly made about Boma. All were re-baptized in 1853, + but they show no sign of Christianity save crosses, and they are the only + prostitutes on the river. + </p> + <p> + Following Tom Peter, and followed by a noisy tail, we walked to the west + end of Shark Point, to see if aught remained of the Padrão, the first + memorial column, planted in 1485 by the explorer Diogo Cam, knight of the + king's household, Dom João II. "O principe perfeito," who, says De Barros + ("Asia," Decad. I. lib. iii. chap. 3), "to immortalize the memory of his + captains," directed them to plant these pillars in all remarkable places. + The Padrões, which before the reign of D. João were only wooden crosses, + assumed the shape of "columns, twice the height of a man (estado), with + the scutcheon bearing the royal arms. At the sides they were to be + inscribed in Latin and Portuguese (to which James Barbot adds Arabic), + with the name of the monarch who sent the expedition, the date of + discovery, and the captain who made it; on the summit was to be raised a + stone cross cramped in with lead." According to others, the inscription + mentioned only the date, the king, and the captain. The Padrão of the + Congo was especially called from the "Lord of Guinea's favourite saint, de + São Jorge"—sit faustum! As Carli shows, the patron of Congo and + Angola was Santiago, who was seen bodily assisting at a battle in which + Dom Affonso, son of Giovi (Emmanuel), first Christian king of Congo, + prevailed against a mighty host of idolaters headed by his pagan brother + "Panso Aquitimo." In 1786 Sir Home Popham found a marble cross on a rock + near Angra dos Ilheos or Pequena (south latitude 26° 37'), with the arms + of Portugal almost effaced. Till lately the jasper pillar at Cabo Negro + bore the national arms. Doubtless much latitude was allowed in the make + and material of these padrões; that which I saw near Cananea in the Brazil + is of saccharine marble, four palms high by two broad; it bears a + scutcheon charged with a cross and surmounted by another. + </p> + <p> + There is some doubt concerning the date of this mission. De Barros (I. + iii. 3) says A.D. 1484. Lopes de Limn (IV. i. 5) gives the reason why A.D. + 1485 is generally adopted, and he believes that the cruise of the previous + year did not lead to the Congo River. The explorer, proceeding to inspect + the coast south of Cape St. Catherine (south latitude 2° 30'), which he + had discovered in 1473, set out from São Jorge da Mina, now Elmina. He was + accompanied by Martin von Behaim of Nürnberg (nat. circ. A.D. 1436, ob. + A.D. 1506), a pupil of the mathematician John Müller (Regiomontanus); and + for whom the discovery of the New World has been claimed. + </p> + <p> + After doubling his last year's terminus, Diogo Cam chanced upon a vast + embouchure, and, surprised by the beauty of the scenery and the volume of + the stream, he erected his stone Padrão, the first of its kind. Finding + the people unintelligible to the interpreters, he sent four of his men + with a present of hawk's bells (cascaveis) and blue glass beads to the + nearest king, and, as they did not soon return, he sailed back to Portugal + with an equal number of natives as hostages, promising to return after + fifteen moons. One of them, Caçuta (Zacuten of Barbot), proved to be a + "fidalgo" of Sonho, and, though the procedure was contrary to orders, it + found favour with the "Perfect Prince." From these men the Portuguese + learned that the land belonged to a great monarch named the Mwani-Congo or + Lord of Congo, and thus they gave the river a name unknown to the riverine + peoples. + </p> + <p> + Diogo Cam, on his second visit, sent presents to the ruler with the + hostages, who had learned as much Portuguese and Christianity as the time + allowed; recovered his own men, and passed on to Angola, Benguela and Cabo + Negro, adding to his discoveries 200 leagues of coast. When homeward + bound, he met the Mwani-Sonho, and visited the Mwani-Congo, who lived at + Ambasse Congo (São Salvador), distant 50 leagues (?). The ruler of the + "great and wonderful River Zaire," touched by his words, sent with him + sundry youths, and the fidalgo Caçuta, who was baptized into Dom Joao, to + receive instruction, and to offer a present of ivory and of palm cloth + which was remarkably strong and bright. A request for a supply of + mechanics and missionaries brought out the first mission of Dominicans. + They sailed in December, 1490, under Gonçalo de Sousa; they were followed + by others, and in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the country was + fairly over- run by the Propaganda. A future page will enter into more + details, and show the results of their labours. + </p> + <p> + The original Padrão was destroyed by the Dutch in 1645, an act of + barbarism which is justly called "Vandalica façanha." Father Merolla says + (1682), "The Hollanders, out of envy, broke the fine marble cross to + pieces; nevertheless, so much remained of it, when I was there, as to + discover plainly the Portuguese arms on the ruins of the basis, with an + inscription under them in Gothic characters, though not easy to be read." + In 1859 a new one was placed in Turtle Cove, a few yards south-west of + Shark Point; but the record was swept away by an unusually high tide, and + no further attempt has been made. + </p> + <p> + We were then led down a sandy narrow line in the bush, striking + south-east, and, after a few yards, we stood before two pieces of marble + in a sandy hollow. The tropical climate, more adverse than that of London, + had bleached and marked them till they looked like pitted chalk: the + larger stump, about two feet high, was bandaged, as if after amputation, + with cloths of many colours, and the other fragment lay at its feet. Tom + Peter, in a fearful lingua-Franca, Negro-Anglo-Portuguese, told us that + his people still venerated the place as part of a religious building; it + is probably the remnant thus alluded to by Lopes de Lima (iii. 1-6): + "Behind this point (Padrão) is another monument of the piety of our + monarchs, and of the holy objects which guided them to the conquest of + Guinea, a Capuchin convent intended to convert the negroes of Sonho; it + has long been deserted, and is still so. Even in A.D. 1814, D. Garcia V., + the king of Congo, complained in a letter to our sovereign of the want of + missionaries." Possibly the ruined convent is the church which we shall + presently visit. Striking eastward, we soon came to a pool in the bush + sufficiently curious and out of place to make the natives hold it + "Fetish;" they declare that it is full of fish, but it kills all men who + enter it—"all men" would not include white men. Possibly it is an + old piscina; according to the Abbé Proyart, the missionaries taught the + art of pisciculture near the village of Kilonga, where they formed their + first establishment. The place is marked "Salt-pond" in Barbot, who tells + us that the condiment was made there and carried inland. + </p> + <p> + A short walk to a tall tree backing the village showed us, amongst + twenty-five European graves, five tombs or cenotaphs of English naval + officers, amongst whom two fell victims to mangrove-oysters, and the rest + to the deadly "calenture" of the lower Congo. We entered the foul mass of + huts, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Domus non ullo robore fulta + Sed sterili junco cannâque intecta palustri." +</pre> + <p> + It was too early for the daily debauch of palm wine, and the interiors + reeked with the odours of nocturnal palm oil. The older travellers were + certainly not blasés; they seemed to find pleasure and beauty wherever + they looked: Ca da Mosto (1455), visiting the Senegal, detected in this + graveolent substance, fit only for wheel-axles, a threefold property, that + of smelling like violets, of tasting like oil of olives, and tinging + victuals like saffron, with a colour still finer. Even Mungo Park + preferred the rancid tallow-like shea butter to the best product of the + cow. We chatted with the Shark Point wreckers, and found that they thought + like Arthegal, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "For equal right in equal things doth stand." +</pre> + <p> + Moreover, here, as in the Shetlands of the early nineteenth century, when + the keel touches bottom the seaman loses his rights, and she belongs to + the shore. + </p> + <p> + Tom Peter offered to show us other relics of the past if we would give him + two days. A little party was soon made up, Mr. J. C. Bigley, the master, + and Mr. Richards, the excellent gunner of the "Griffon," were my + companions. We set out in a south-by-easterly direction to the bottom of + Sonho, or Diogo's Bay, which Barbot calls "Bay of Pampus Rock." Thence we + entered Alligator River, a broad lagoon, the Raphael Creek of Maxwell's + map, not named in the hydrographic chart of 1859. Leading south with many + a bend, it is black water and thick, fetid mud, garnished with scrubby + mangrove, where Kru-boys come to cut fuel and catch fever; here the dew + seemed to fall in cold drops. After nine miles we reached a shallow fork, + one tine of which, according to our informants, comes from the Congo + Grande, or São Salvador, distant a week's march. Leaving the whaler in + charge of a Kru-man, we landed, and walked about half a mile over loose + sand bound by pine-apple root, to the Banza Sonho, or, as we call it, King + Antonio's Town- -not to be mistaken for that placed in the charts behind + Point Padron. Our object being unknown, there was fearful excitement in + the thatched huts scattered under the palm grove, till Tom Peter + introduced us, and cleared for us a decent hut. The buildings, if they can + be so called, are poor and ragged, copies of those which we shall see upon + the uplands. Presently we were visited by the king named after that saint + "of whom the Evil One was parlous afraid." This descendant of the "Counts + of Sonho," in his dirty night-cap and long coat of stained red cloth, was + a curious contrast to the former splendour of the "count's habit," with + cap of stitched silk which could be worn only by him and his nobles, fine + linen shirt, flowered silk cloak, and yellow stockings of the same + material. When King Affonso III. gave audience to the missioners (A.D. + 1646), the negro grandee "had on a vest of cloth set with precious stones, + and in his hat a crown of diamonds, besides other stones of great value. + He sat on a chair under a canopy of rich crimson velvet, with gilt nails, + after the manner of Europe; and under his feet was a great carpet, with + two stools of the same colour, and silk laced with gold." After the usual + palaver we gave the black earl a cloth and bottle of rum for leave to pass + on, but no one would accompany us that evening, all pretending that they + wanted time to fit up the hammocks. At night a body of armed bushmen + marched down to inspect us. + </p> + <p> + The demands for porterage were so exorbitant next morning, that we set out + on foot under the guidance of Tom Peter. We passed southwards over large + tracts of bush and gramineous plants, with patches of small plantations, + manioc and thur; and settlements girt by calabash-trees, cocoas, palmyra + and oil palms. The people poured out, threatened impotent vengeance on + those who brought the white men to "make their country," that is, to seize + and settle in it. The only animals were fowls and pigs; small strong cages + acting as hogstyes showed that leopards were dangerous; in 1816 Lieutenant + Hawkey found signs of these animals, together with elephant, wild boar, + and antelope. Now there is no sport below the cataracts, and possibly very + little, except in the water, above them. Thence we debouched upon rolling + land, loose and sandy waves, sometimes divided by swamps; it is the lower + end of the high yellow band seen from the south of the river, the true + coast of alluvial soil, scattered here and there with quartz and pebbles. + Then the bush opened out, and showed to the north- east stretches of + grassy land, where the wild fig-tree drooped its branches, laden with + thick fleshy leafage, to the ground; these are the black dots which are + seen from afar studding the tawny desert-like surface. Flowers were + abundant despite the lateness of the season, and the sterility of the soil + was evidenced by cactus and euphorbia. + </p> + <p> + After a walk of six miles Tom Peter pompously announced that we had + reached the church. We saw only an oblong furrow and a little worm-eaten + wood near three or four of the most miserable "magalia;" but a bell, hung + to a dwarf gallows, was dated 1700, and inscribed, "Si Deus cum nobis Qis + (sic) contra nos?" The aspect of this article did not fail to excite Mr. + Richards' concupiscence: I looked into the empty huts, and in the largest + found a lot of old church gear, the Virgin (our Lady of Pinda), saints, + and crucifixes, a tank-like affair of iron that acted as font, and + tattered bundles of old music-scores in black and red ink. In Captain + Tuckey's day some of the Sonho men could read the Latin Litany; there was + a priest ordained by the Capuchins of Loanda, a bare-footed (and + bare-faced) black apostle, with a wife and five handmaids; and a multitude + of converts loaded with crucifixes and satchels of relics. Our home march + was enlivened by glimpses of the magnificent river seen through the + perennial tropical foliage, and it did not suggest trite reflections upon + the meanness of man's highest aspirations in presence of eternal Nature. + </p> + <p> + We had been treading upon no vulgar spot. We are now in the earldom of + Sonho, bounded north by the Congo River and south by the Ambriz, westward + by the Atlantic, and eastward by the "Duchy of Bamba." It was one of the + great divisions of the Congo kingdom, and "absolute, except only its being + tributary to the Lord Paramount." The titles of Portugal were adopted by + the Congoese, according to Father Cavazzi, after A.D. 1571, when the king + constituted himself a vassal of the Portuguese crown. Here was the Pinda + whose port and fort played an important part in local history. "Built by + the Sonhese army at the mouth of the River Zaire," it commanded both the + stream and sea: it was plundered in 1600 by four French pirates. According + to Carli (1666-67) "the Count of Sonho, the fifth dignitary of the empire, + resided in the town of Sonho, a league from the River Zaire." Pinda was + for a time the head-quarters of the Portuguese Mission, subject only to + that of São Salvador; it consisted of an apartment two stories high, which + caused trouble, being contrary to country custom. + </p> + <p> + At the French factory I found the employés well "up" in the travels of the + unfortunate adventurer Douville ("Voyage au Congo et dans l'Intérieur de + l'Afrique Equinoxiale fait dans les années 1828, 1829, et 1830. Par J. B. + Douville, Secrétaire de la Société de Géographic de Paris pour l'année + 1832, etmembre de plusieurs Sociétés savantes françoises et étrangères. + Ouvrage auquel la Société de Géographic a décerné le prix dans sa séance + du 30 mars, 1832. 3 tomes. 8vo. Paris, 1832"). Dr. Gardner, in his + Brazilian travels, gives an account of Douville's murder, the consequence + of receiving too high fees for medical attendance on the banks of the São + Francisco. So life like are his descriptions of the country and its + scenery, that no one in the factory would believe him to have been an + impostor, and the Frenchmen evidently held my objections to be "founded on + nationality." The besetting sins of the three volumes are inordinate + vanity and inconséquence, but these should not obscure our vision as to + their solid and remarkable merits. Compare the picturesque account of São + Paulo with those of the latest English travellers, and the anthropology of + the people, their religion, their ceremonies, their magic, their dress and + costume, their trade, their manufactures, their maladies (including + earth-eating), their cannibalism, the condition of their women, and the + necessity of civilizing them by education before converting them, all + subjects of the highest interest, with that of Mungo Park, for instance, + arid we have a fair measure of the French traveller's value. The native + words inserted into the text are for the most part given with unusual + correctness, and the carping criticism which would correct them sadly + requires correction itself. "Thus the word which he writes mouloundu in + his text, and mulundu in his vocabulary, is not singular, as he supposes, + but the plural of loondu, a mountain" (p. 200 of the" Review"). Firstly, + Douville has warned the reader that the former is the spelling best + adapted to French, the latter to Portuguese. Secondly, "mulundu" in + Angolan is singular, the plural being "milundu"—a handful, the + Persians say, is a specimen of the heap. The excess of female births in + low and unhealthy places (1, 309) and as the normal result of polygamy (3, + 243), is a highly interesting subject still awaiting investigation. I do + not mean that Douville was the first to observe this phenomenon, which + forced itself upon the notice of physiologists in ancient times. Foster + ("Cook's Third Voyage") remarks that, wherever men and animals have many + females, the feminine births preponderate over the masculine; a fact there + explained by the "organic molecule" of Buffon. Pigafetta, the + circumnavigator, gives the King of Tidor eighteen daughters to eight sons. + </p> + <p> + The French traveller does not pretend to be a mineralogist, but he does + his best to lay open the metallic riches of the country; he gives careful + observations of temperature, in water as well as air, he divines the + different proportions of oxygen in the atmosphere, and he even applies + himself to investigating the comparative heat of the negro's blood, an + inquiry still far from being exhausted. The most remarkable part is + certainly the medical, and here the author was simply in advance of his + age. Instead of the lancet, the drastic cathartics, and the calomel with + which our naval surgeons slew their patients, he employed emetics and + tonics to an extent that would have charmed my late friend, Dr. Dickson, + the chromothermalist, and he preceded Dr. Hutchinson in the use of quinine + wine. Indeed, the peculiar aptitude for medicine shown in these pages led + to the traveller's adopting the destructive art of healing as a + profession, and caused his unhappy end. The curious mixture of utter + imposture and of genius for observation which a traveller can detect in + Douville renders him worthy of a monograph. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VI. — Up the Congo River.—the Slave Depot, Porto Da + Lenha.—arrival at Boma. + </h2> + <p> + M. Parrot was as good as his word. By August 31st, "L'Espérance," a fine + schooner-rigged palhabote (launch) of thirty-five tons, heavily sparred + and carrying lots of "muslin," was ready to receive my outfit. The party + consisted of the commander, Mr. Bigley, and five chosen "Griffons," + including William Deane, boatswain's mate, as good a man as his namesake + in Blake's day, and the estimable Friend, captain's cook and Figaro in + general. M. Pissot, an Arlésien, clerk to the factory, went up on business + with a crew of eight useless Cabindas under Frank, their pagan "patron," + who could only run us aground. Finally, there was a guard of half-a-dozen + "Laptots," equally good sailors and soldiers. The French squadron in West + Africa has the advantage over ours of employing these men, + </p> + <p> + 086—- who are clean, intelligent, and brave; whilst we are reduced + to the unprogressive Kru-man, who is, moreover, a model coward, a poltroon + on principle. + </p> + <p> + At 5 P.M. our huge canvas drove us rapidly over the shoals and shallows of + this imperfectly known sea: the Ethiopic Directory justly grumbles, "It is + a subject of regret that navigators who have had occasion to enter the + Congo, and to remain there some time, have not furnished us with more + information about the tides." This will be a work of labour and endurance; + detached observations are of very little use. We at once remarked the + complication caused by the upper, surface, or freshwater current of 3 to 4 + knots an hour, meeting the under, or oceanic inflow. There is a short cut + up Pirate's Creek, but we avoided it for the usual reason, fear of finding + it very long. Passing a low point to port, subtended north and south by + the Bananal River and Pirate's Creek, after some six knots we were abreast + of Bulambemba (the Boulem beembo of Tuckey's Vocabulary). It is + interpreted "Answer," hence our "Echo Point"(?); but others render it, + "Hold your tongue." The former is correct, and the thick high screen of + trees explains the native and English names. Old writers call it + Fathomless Point, which it is not now; a bank, the south-eastern + projection of the great Mwáná Mázia shoal, has formed a few feet below the + surface; but the term will apply at the distance of a mile further south. + This acute angle shows a glorious clump, the "Tall Trees," white mangroves + rising a hundred feet, and red mangroves based upon pyramidal cages of + roots; and beyond it the immediate shore is covered with a dense tropical + vegetation, a tangle of bush, palms, and pandanus, matted with creepers + and undergrowth, and rhyzophoras of many varieties delighting in brackish + water. We passed on the right the Ponta de Jacaré (Point of the + Crocodile), fronting Point Senegal on the other side. The natives call the + former Ngándu (li. Jigándu), and farcical tales are told about it: in the + lower settlements Europeans will not go abroad by night without a lantern. + During my trip I sighted only one startled crocodile that floated log-like + a mile off, and Captain Baak, of the Dutch house, had not seen one during + a whole year at Banana Point. + </p> + <p> + We anchored for the night off the south side of the Zungá chyá Ngombe, in + Portuguese Ilha do Boi (Bullock), the Rhinoceros Island of our early + charts. It emerges from the waters of the right bank, a mere "ponton" + plumed with dark mangroves and streaked with spar-like white trunks. This + is probably the "Island of Horses," where the Portuguese, flying from the + victorious Hollanders, were lodged and fed by the courteous Count of + Sonho; perhaps it is Battel's "Isle Calabes." The place is backed by the + Monpanga or Mombang, the "Look-out Islands" of the chart, which has + greatly changed since the beginning of the century; the dark mass of + mangroves is now apparently part of the northern shore. Almost due south + of the Ilha do Boi is the Zungá chyá Kampenzi, whence our word chimpanzee: + in the hydrographic chart it is miswritten Zoonga Campendi, and in + Tuckey's map, which contradicts his text, "Zoonga Casaquoisa." His "Zoonga + Kampenzey," also named "Halcyon Island," appears to be the Draper's Island + or the "Monkey Island" of Mr. Maxwell: the latter in modern charts is more + to the north-east, that is, above Porto da Lenha, than the former. The + Simiads have been killed out; Captain Tuckey going up the river saw + upwards of twenty which, but for their tails, might have been mistaken for + negroes. Merolla says that wild men and women (gorillas?) have been + captured in Sonho, and he carefully distinguishes them from baboons: one + of them was presented to a friar of his order, who "bestowed it on the + Portuguese governor of Loanda." Chimpanzee Island may be the Zariacacongo + of Father Merolla, who makes Cacongo (Great Congo) a large and independent + kingdom" lying in the middle between Congo and Loango." He describes + Zariacacongo, "none of the smallest, and situate in the midst of the River + Zaire." It abounded in all sorts of provisions, was well peopled, + consisted of a plain raised eight fathoms above water, and was divided + from the kingdom of Congo by a river, over which there was a bridge. + </p> + <p> + After a pleasant breezy night upon the brown waters, on September 1st we + hove anchor betimes and made for Scotchman's Head, a conspicuous mangrove + bluff forming a fine landmark on the left bank. The charts have lately + shifted it some two miles west of its old position. Six or seven miles + beyond it rise the blue uplands of the "Earldom of Sonho." On our right, + in mid-stream, lay a "crocodile bank," a newly fixed grass islet, a few + square feet of green and gold, which the floods will presently cover or + carry away. To the left, above the easternmost "Mombang" and the network + of islands behind it, opens the gape of the Malela River, a short cut to + French Point, found useful when a dangerous tide- rip is caused by the + strong sea-breeze meeting the violent current of the Thalweg. Above it + lies a curious formation like concentric rings of trees inclosing grass: + it is visible only from the north-east. Several slave factories now appear + on either shore, single-storied huts of wood and thatch, in holes cut out + of the densest bush, an impenetrable forest whose sloppy soil and miry + puddles seem never to dry. The tenements serve as videttes and outposts, + enabling cargoes to ship without the difficulties of passing Palm Point, + and thus to make a straight run down stream. There are three on the north + bank, viz. M. Rágis (aîné), now deserted, Sr. Lima Viana, and Sr. Antonio + Fernandez; and three on the left side, Sr. Alessandro Ferreira, Sr. + Guilherme, and Sr. Fonseca. Those on the southern or left bank facilitate + overland transit to Mangue, Ambrizette, and other dépôts. At present it is + "tiempo seco" (dull time), and the gérants keep their hands in by buying + ground-nuts and palm oil. The slave trade, however, makes 500, not 50, per + cent., and the agents are naturally fond of it, their mere salaries being + only some 150 francs a month. + </p> + <p> + Landing at the factory of Sr. Fernandez, we were received by his agent, + Sr. Silva, in a little bungalow of bamboo and matting, paved with tamped + earth and old white ostreoid shells, a kind of Mya, relished by the + natives but not eaten by Europeans. To these, doubtless, Mr. W. Winwood + Reacle refers ("Savage Africa," chap, xxxvii.), "The traders say that in + Congo there are great heaps of oyster-shells, but no oysters. These shells + the negroes also burn for lime." I did not hear of any of these + "ostreiras," which, if they exist, must reflect the Sambaquis of the + opposite Brazilian shore. The house was guarded by three wooden figures, + "clouterly carved," and powdered with ochre or red wood; two of them, + representing warriors in studded coatings of spike nails, with a + looking-glass fixed in the stomach, raised their hands as if to stab each + other. These figures are sometimes found large as life: according to the + agents, the spikes are driven in before the wars begin, and every one + promises the hoped-for death of an enemy. Behind them the house was + guarded by a sentinel with drawn sword. The unfortunate tenant, who looked + a martyr to ague, sat "in palaver" with a petty island "king," and at + times the tap of a war-drum roused my experienced ear. The monarch, + habited in a shabby cloth coat, occupied a settee, with a "minister" on + either side; he was a fat senior of light complexion, with a vicious + expression upon features, which were not those of the "tobacconist + nigger," nor had he the effeminate aspect of the Congoese. + </p> + <p> + I looked curiously at these specimens of the Musulungu or Musurungu, a + wilder race than that of Shark Point: the English, of course, call them + Missolonghi, because Lord Byron died there. Here the people say "le" for + "re," and "rua" for "lua," confounding both liquids, which may also be + found in the Kibundo tongue. In Loango, according to the Abbé Proyart, the + national organ does not admit the roughness of the r, which is changed to + l. Monteiro and Gamitto assert (xxii.) that the "Cazembes or Lundas do not + pronounce the letter r, in whose place they use l." The "Ibos" of the + lower Congo, dwelling on the southern shore between the mouth and the + Porto da Lenha, above which they are harmless, these men have ever been + dangerous to strangers, and the effect of the slave-trade has been to make + them more formidable. Lieutenant Boteler (1835) was attacked by twenty- + eight canoes, carrying some 140 men, who came on boldly, "ducking" at the + flash, and who were driven off only by a volley of musketry and a charge + of grape. In 1860 a whaler and crew were attacked by their war-canoes + sallying out from behind Scotchman's Head. These craft are of two kinds, + one shaped like a horse- trough, the other with a lean and snaky head. The + "Wrangler" lost two of her men near Zungá chyá Kampenzi, and the "Griffon" + escaped by firing an Armstrong conical shell. They have frequently + surprised and kept for ransom the white agents, whom "o negocio" deterred + from reprisals. M. Pissot, our companion, was amarré by them for some + weeks, and the most unpleasant part of his captivity was the stunning + concert of songs and instruments kept up during the day to prevent his + escaping by night. The more sensible traders at Boma pay them black mail + by employing them as boats' crews, upon our Anglo-Indian principle of the + "Paggi" and the "Ramosi." + </p> + <p> + Merolla calls these men Musilongo or Sonhese. The word appears to me + opprobrious, as if each tribe termed itself Mushi-Congo (Congo people), + and its neighbours Musulungus: Barbot writes as a Frenchman Moutsie, the + Portuguese Muxi (Mushi). Mushi-Longo would perhaps mean Loango-people; but + my ear could not detect any approach to "Loango" in "Musulungu." The first + syllable, Mu, in Fiote or Congoese, would be a contraction of Muntu + (plural Wántú). They inhabit the islands, own a part of the north bank, + and extend southwards to Ambriz: eastward they are bounded by the Fiote or + Congo-speaking peoples, to whom their tongue is intelligible. They have no + tattoo, but they pierce the nose septum and extract the two central and + upper incisors; the Muxi- Congoes or Lower Congoese chip or file out a + chevron in the near sides of the same teeth— an ornament possibly + suggested by the weight of the native pipe. The chipping and extracting + seem to be very arbitrary and liable to change: sometimes the upper, at + other times the lower teeth are operated upon. The fashionable mutilation + is frequently seen in Eastern Africa, and perhaps it is nothing but a + fashion. They are the "kallistoi" and "megistoi" of the Congoese bodies, + taller and darker, fiercer and braver than their neighbours, nor will they + cease to be river pirates till the illicit trade dies. + </p> + <p> + After taking leave of Sr. Silva we resumed our way, the thermometer (F.) + showing at 1.45 P.M. 95° in the air when the sun was obscured, and the + mirage played the usual fantastic tricks. The mangrove, which Tuckey's + introduction prolongs to fifty miles from the mouth, now disappears; in + fact, it does not extend much above Bullock Island, nineteen direct miles + on the chart from Shark Point and, as usual, it enables us to measure the + extreme limit where the salt-tide ascends. The palhabote went gallantly, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The water round her bows + Dancing as round a drinking cup." +</pre> + <p> + Small trembling waves poppled and frothed in mid-stream, where the fresh + water met wind and tide; and by the "boiling" of the surface we saw that + there was still a strong under-current flowing against the upper layer. A + little beyond the factory we were shown on the northern bank Mariquita + Nook, where the slaver of that name, commanded by a Captain Bowen, had + shipped some 520 men. She was captured by H.M. Steamship "Zebra," + Commander Hoskins, after being reported by a chief, whom her captain had + kicked, to a trader at the river mouth, and by him to the cruizer. Slavers + used to show their sense by starting on Sundays, when the squadron kept a + careless look-out; but their inevitable danger was the general "drunk" of + the officers and crew to celebrate the event, and this libation often + caused delays which led to seizure. It was an admirable site, a bit of + golden sand fronting the cleared bush, commanding an unbroken sweep of + vision to the embouchure, and masked by forest from Porto da Lenha. It is + easily known by its two tall trees, and that nearest the sea, when viewed + from the east, appears surmounted by what resemble the "Kangaroo's Head:" + they are cones of regular shape, covered to the topmost twig with the + lightest green Flagellaria. The "bush" now becomes beautiful, rolling in + bulging masses of verdure to the very edge of the clear brown stream. As + in the rivers of Guinea, the llianas form fibrous chains, varying in size + from a packthread to a cable; now straight, then twisted; investing the + trees with an endless variety of folds and embraces, and connecting + neighbours by graceful arches like the sag of an acrobat's rope. Here and + there a grotesque calabash contrasted with the graceful palms towering in + air for warmth and light, or bending over water like Prince of Wales's + feathers. The unvarying green was enlivened by yew-like trees with scarlet + flowers, the "Burning Bush" of Sierra Leone, setting off the white boles + of the cotton-trees; and the whole was edged by the yellow green of the + quaint pandanus hung with heavy fruit. + </p> + <p> + A little beyond "Mariquita Nook" the right bank becomes a net- work of + creeks, "obscure channels," tortuous, slimy with mud, banked with the + snake-like branches of trees, and much resembling the lower course of the + Benin, or any other north equatorial African river; the forest is also + full of large villages, invisible like the streams till entered. A single + tree, apparently growing out of the great stream-bed, showed shallow water + as we passed the Ponte de tres Palmeiras; the three oil- palms are still + there, but the easternmost is decaying. At 2 P.M. we were in sight of the + chief slaving settlement on the Congo, the Whydah of the river, Porto da + Lenha. Our charts have "Ponta de Linha," three mistakes in as many words. + Some authorities, however, prefer Ponta da Lenha, "Woody Point," from the + piles flanking the houses; others, Ponte da Lenha, from a bridge built by + the agent of Messrs. Tobin's house over the single influent that divides + the settlement. Cruizers have often ascended thus far; the Baltimore + barque of 800 tons went up and down safely in 1859, but now square-rigged + ships, which seldom pass Zungá chyá Kampenzi, send up boats when something + is to be done higher up. + </p> + <p> + Porto da Lenha dates like Abeokuta from the second decade of the present + century. In Tuckey's time the projection from the northern bank was known + as "Tall Trees," a term common to several places in the "Oil rivers;" no + factories existed, schooners sailed to Boma for cargo, and dropped down + stream as soon as loaded. From French Point it is distant 40,000 measured + metres (= 21 statute miles and 1,615 yards); our charts show 20.50 + nautical miles (= 32,500 metres in round numbers). The river opposite the + projection narrows to a gate barely a mile and a half broad, whilst the + valley stretches some five miles, and the blue hills inhabited by the + Musulungus are clearly visible; the flood rises four or five feet, and + drinking water must be brought from up stream. The site of the settlement + is on the right or northern bank behind the projection, a slip of morass + backed by swamps and thick growths, chiefly bombax, palm and acacia, + lignum vitae, the mammee-apple and the cork-tree, palmyra, pandanus, and + groves of papyrus. Low and deeply flooded during the rains, the place + would be fatal without the sea-breeze; as it is, the air is exceedingly + unwholesome. There is no quay, the canoe must act gondola; the wharf is a + mere platform with steps, and in places the filthy drains are not dry even + at this season. The length of the station is about one mile, and of no + depth except what is taken up by the neat and expensive gardens. Eastward + or up stream it thins out, and the foundations give considerable trouble; + the inhabitants are condemned to do beavers' work, to protect the bank + with strong piles, and to heap up earth for a base, whilst, despite all + their toil, the water often finds its way in. The sixteen houses look + well; they are substantial bungalows, built country fashion, with timber + and matting; they have large and shady verandahs, and a series of inner + rooms. Each house has a well- kept pottage plot, inferior, however, to + those up stream. + </p> + <p> + The tenure of ground here, as at Borna, is by yearly rent to the two + "kings," Nengongo and Nenzalo, each of whom claims a half. Like the chiefs + of Porto Novo, the despot of Dahome, the rulers of many Nigerian tribes, + and even the Fernandian "Bube," these potentates may not look at the sea + nor at the river. Their power is, therefore, deputed to "linguisters" or + interpreters, linguistele ya Nchinu, "linguist to the king," being the + official titles of these worthies, who massacre the Portuguese language, + and who are empowered to receive "comey" (customs) and rent. The revenue + is composed of three principal items; an ounce ($16) per head of negro + embarked at Porto da Lenha; four per cent, on all goods sold, and, lastly, + a hundred hard dollars monthly ground- rent—£l92 (English pound + symbol) a year. The linguist becomes more powerful than the chief, who is + wholly in his power, and always receives the best presents. Neagongo's + fattore is old Shimbah, an ignoble aspect with a "kink in his leg;" Mashel + or Machela, a corruption of the Portuguese Maciel, died about two months + aeo: we shall see him disembarked for burial at Boma. + </p> + <p> + It is evident that the slavers were wrong not to keep hulks like those of + the Bonny River; health would have gained, and the procedure might have + modified negro "sass." The chiefs begin early morning by going their + rounds for drink, and end business between 7 and 10 A.M. Everywhere on + this coast a few hours of work support a "gentleman;" even the + comparatively industrious and hard-working Egbas rarely do anything after + noon. These lords and masters are fully aware that the white men are their + willing slaves as long as the large profits last. If a glass of watered + rum, which they detect more easily than we do watered milk, be offered to + them, it will be thrown in the donor's face. Every factory must keep a + barrel of spirits ready broached if the agents would buy eggs and yams, + and the poorest negro comes regularly with his garrafa. The mixed stuff + costs per bottle only a hundred reis (= fourpence), and thoroughly + demoralizes the black world. + </p> + <p> + We landed at once, sent our letters to M. Monteiro, who hospitably offered + his house, and passed the day quickly enough in a round of visits. Despite + the general politeness and attention to us, we found a gloom overhanging + the place: as at Whydah, its glories have departed, nor shall they ever + return. The jollity, the recklessness, the gold ounces thrown in handfuls + upon the monte-table, are things of the past: several houses are said to + be insolvent, and the dearth of cloth is causing actual misery. Palm and + ground-nut oil enable the agents only to buy provisions; the trade is + capable of infinite expansion, but it requires time—as yet it + supports only the two non-slaving houses, English and Dutch. The forty or + fifty tons brought in every month pay them cent, per cent.; the bag of + half a hundred weight being sold for four fathoms of cloth; or two + hatchets, one bottle of rum, and a jug or a plate. + </p> + <p> + Early next day I went to the English factory for the purpose of completing + my outfit. Unfortunately, Mr. P. Maculloch, the head agent, who is + perfectly acquainted with the river and the people, was absent, leaving + the business in the hands of two "mean whites," walking buccras, English + pariahs. The factory—a dirty disgrace to the name—was in the + charge of a clerk, whom we saw being rowed about bareheaded through the + sun, accompanied by a black girl, both as far from sober as might be. The + cooper, who was sitting moony with drink, rose to receive us and to weigh + out the beads which I required; under the excitement he had recourse to a + gin-bottle, and a total collapse came on before half the work was done. + Why should south latitude 6°, the parallel of Zanzibar, be so fatal to the + Briton? + </p> + <p> + At 2.20 P.M. on September 2, we left Porto da Lenha, and passed Mashel's + Creek, on whose right bank is the village of Makatalla; the charts call it + Foomou, and transfer it to the left. Here we enter upon the riverine + archipelago. The great stream before one, now divides into three parallel + branches, separated by long narrow islands and islets, banks and shallows. + The northernmost channel in our maps, "Maxwell River," is known to + Europeans and natives as Noangwa; Mamballa or the central line is called + by the moderns Nshibúl, and the southern is dubbed by the hydrographer, + "Rio Konio," a truly terrible mistake for Sonho. As a rule, the Noangwa, + though infested during the rains by cruel mosquitoes, is preferred for the + ascent, and the central for dropping down stream. The maximum breadth of + the Congo bed, more than half island, is here five miles; and I was + forcibly reminded of it when winding through the Dalmatian Archipelago. + </p> + <p> + The river still maintained its alluvial aspect as we passed along the + right bank. The surface was a stubble strewn with the usual trees; the + portly bombax; the calabash, now naked and of wintry aspect; and the dark + evergreen palmyra, in dots and streaks upon the red-yellow field, fronted + by an edging of grass, whose king, cyperus papyrus, is crowned with tall + heads waving like little palms. This Egyptian bush extends from the Congo + mouth to Banza Nokki, our landing-place; it grows thickest about Porto da + Lenha, and it thins out above and below: I afterwards observed it in the + sweet water marshes of Syria and the Brazils. We passed sundry settlements—Loango + Pequeno, Loango Grande, and others—and many canoes were seen plying + up and down. On the left or to the south was nothing but dense reedy + vegetation upon the low islands, which here are of larger dimensions than + the northern line. As evening drew near, the grasshoppers and the tree + frogs chirped a louder song, and the parrots whistled as they winged their + rapid flight high overhead. Presently we passed out of the lower + archipelago, and sighted the first high land closing upon the stream, + rolling hills, which vanished in blue perspective, and which bore streaks + of fire during the dark hours. Our Cabinda Patron grounded us twice, and + even the high night breeze hardly enabled us to overcome the six-knot + current off the narrow, whose right side is called Ponta da Diabo. Devil's + Point is not so named in the chart: the place is marked "Strong Tide" (No. + 1), opposite Chombae Island, which the natives term Zungá chyá Bundika, + hence probably the name of the village Bemandika (Boma ndika). At this + satanic headland, where the banks form a gate three miles broad, a man + hailed us from the bank; none understood him, but all made up their minds + that he threatened to visit us during the night. + </p> + <p> + A light breeze early next morning fortunately freshened as we approached + "Strong Tide" (No. 2). We ran north of the second archipelago above the + gate; south of us lay the "Low Islands" of the chart, with plantations of + beans and tobacco; the peasants stood to stare like Icelanders, leaning on + oblong-bladed paddles six feet long, or upon alpen-stocks capped with + bayonets; the "scare-crows" were grass figures, with pots for heads and + wooden rattles suspended to bent poles. On the right bank a block of hills + narrows the stream, and its selvage of light green grasses will contribute + to the "floating islands." Higher up, blocks and boulders of all sizes + rise from the vegetation, and prolong themselves into the shallower + waters. There are two distinct bluffs, the westernmost marked by a + tree-clump at its feet, and between them lies a baylet, where a dozen + palms denote the once dreaded village Bemandika. The second block, 400 to + 500 feet high, bears on its rounded summit the Stone of Lightning, called + by the people Tadi Nzázhí, vulgò, Taddy Enzazzi. The Fiote language has + the Persian letter Zh (j), sounding like the initial of the French "jour:" + so Lander ("On the Course and Termination of the Niger," "Journal Royal + Geographical Society," vol. i. p. 131) says of the Island Zegozhe, that + "zh is pronounced like z in azure." This upright mass, apparently 40 feet + high, and seeming, like the "Lumba" of Kinsembo to rest upon a basement, + is very conspicuous from the east, where it catches the eye as a watch- + tower would. At the bluff-base, a huge slab, an irregular parallelogram, + slopes towards the water and, viewed far up stream, it passably represents + a Kaffir's pavoise. This Fingal's Shield, a name due to the piety of Mr. + George Maxwell, is called by the French La Pierre Fétiche: it must not be + confounded with our Fetish Rock (Tádi ya Muingu) on the southern bank at + the entrance of the Nshibúl and Sonho branches. I can add nothing to + Tuckey's description or Lieutenant Hawkey's tracing of the rude figures + which distinguish a not unusual feature. Tuckey (p. 97) calls Fingal's + Shield Taddy d'ya M'wangoo, and Professor Smith, Taddi Moenga (p. 303); + the only defect in Lieutenant Hawkey's sketch is that of exaggerating the + bluff, a mere mamelon, one of many lumps upon a continued level. Both + rocks are of the oldest granite, much weather-worn and mixed and banded + with mica and quartz. M. Charles Konig found in the finer-grained + varieties "minute noble garnets," which also appeared in the mica-slate of + "Gombac" higher up stream, and in the primitive greenstone of "Boka + Embomma."<a href="#linknote-8" name="linknoteref-8" id="linknoteref-8"><small>8</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Beyond this point, where Boma is first sighted, lies the large marauding + village of Twáná. Here also a man shouted to us from the bank "Muliele! + muliele!" for the Portuguese "mulher," one of the interminable corruptions + of the tongue—a polite offer, as politely declined. The next feature + is the Rio Jo Jacaré, a narrow sedgy stream on the right bank, which, + winding northward through rolling lines of hills, bends westward, and + joins, they say, the Rio Lukullu (Lukallo?) of Cabinda Bay. Men have + descended, I am told, three leagues, but no one has seen the junction, + consequently there may be a portage between the drains. If not, this is + the apex of the greater Congo delta, a false formation, whose base between + Cabinda Bay (S. lat. 5° 25') and Ambrizette (S. lat. 7° 16') measures 1° + 51', equal to 111 direct geographical miles, whilst its depth inland would + be sixty. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VII. — Boma.—our Outfit for the Interior + </h2> + <p> + We now reach Boma, the furthest Portuguese factory, about thirty, usually + reckoned thirty-eight, nautical miles from Porta da Lenha, and a total of + 52.50 from French Point. + </p> + <p> + The upper dépôt of the Congo lies upon the north bank, accidenté ground, + poor, stony, and sandy soil, with rounded, grass-clad hills, The southern + is less broken; there are long slopes and waves of land which trend in + graceful lines, charmingly diversified, to the uplands, where the old + capital, São Salvador, is situated; and upon the undulating blue ridges, + distance behind distance, appear markings by Nature's hand, which the + stranger's eye can hardly distinguish from villa or village. The view + explains how the old expedition felt "every day more in love with this + beautiful country," The sea-like river wants nothing but cattle on its + banks to justify the description— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Appunto una scena pastorale, a cui fanno + Quinci il mar, quinci i colli, e d' ogn' intorno + I fior, le piante, e l' ombre, e l' onde, e ‘l cielo. + Unteatro pomposo." +</pre> + <p> + In the centre of the broad stream, whose southern arm is not visible, are + three islets. The western most, backed by a long, grassy, palm-tasselled + bank, is called Zungá chyá Bundiká. This Chombae Island of the charts is a + rocky cone, dark with umbrella- shaped trees. Its north-eastern neighbour, + Simúle Kete, the Molyneux Island of Mr. Maxwell, the Hekay of Tuckey, and + the Kekay of the chart, contrasts sharply with the yellow stubbles and the + flat lines of Zungá chyá Ngándi. Here, since Tuckey's time, the trees have + made way for grass and stones; the only remnants are clumps in the + south-eastern, which is not only the highest point, but also the windy and + watery direction. On the Congo course the foul weather is mostly from the + "sirocco," where the African interior is a mass of swamps. At the mouth + tornadoes come down the line of stream from the north-east, and I heard + traditions of the sea-tornado, which blows in shore instead of offshore as + usual. About the close of the last century one or other of these islands + was proposed as a dépôt and settlement, which a few simple works would + convert into a small Gibraltar. The easternmost Buka, the Booka Embomma of + the charts and maps, will presently be described. In this direction the + Zaire assumes the semblance of a mountain lake, whilst down stream the + broad bosom of the Nshibúl branch forms almost a sea-horizon, with dots + showing where tall, scattered palms spring from the watery surface. We + cannot but admire the nightly effects of the wintry bush-fires. During the + day livid volumed smoke forms cumuli that conceal their enemy, the sun, + and discharge a rain of blacks ten times the size of Londoners. In the + darkened air we see storms of fire fiercely whirling over the undulating + ranges, here sweeping on like torrents, there delaying, whilst the sheets + meet at the apex, and a giant beard of flame ( ) flouts the moon. The land + must be splendidly grassed after the rains. + </p> + <p> + The Boma factories are like those of Porto da Lenha, but humbler in size, + and more resembling the wicker-work native houses. The river, which up + stream will show a flood mark of twelve feet, here seldom rises above + five, and further down three and four; consequently piles are not + required, and the swiftness of the current keeps off the jacaré. Formerly + there were fourteen establishments, which licit trade in palm oil and + ground-nuts, instead of men, women, and children, have reduced to ten. The + air is sensibly drier and healthier than at the lower settlement, and + apparently there is nothing against the place but deadly ennui and + monotony. + </p> + <p> + We landed at once, and presented our letters to Sr. Antonio Vicente + Pereira, who at once made us at home: he had seen Goa as well as Macáo, so + we found several subjects in common. The factory enjoyed every comfort: + the poultry yard throve, far better than at Porto da Lenha; we saw fowls + and pigeons, "Manilla" ducks and ducklings, and a fine peacock from + Portugal, which seemed to enjoy the change. The fish is not so good as + that caught further down, and the natives have a habit of narcotizing it: + the Silurus electricus is exceptionally plentiful. The farmyard contained + tame deer, and a house-dog fierce as a tethered mastiff; goats were + brought whenever wanted, and the black-faced, thin-tailed sheep gave + excellent mutton. Beef was impossible; the Portuguese, like the natives, + care little for milk, and of the herd, which strangers had attempted to + domesticate, remained only a bull and a cow in very poor condition—the + deaths were attributed to poisonous grass, but I vehemently suspect + Tsetse. A daily "quitanda," or market, held under the huge calabashes on a + hill behind the house, supplied what was wanted. + </p> + <p> + Upon Market Hill executions also take place, the criminal being shot + through the heart. M. Pereira's garden produces all that Porta da Lenha + can grow, with less trouble and of a superior kind. Water-melons, + tomatoes, onions, and pimento, or large pepper (pimentão, siliquastrum, + ndungu ya yenéne), useful to produce "crocodiles' tears;" mint, and + parsley flourish remarkably; turnips are eatable after two months; cabbage + and lettuce, beet, carrot, and endive after three or four. It is a waste + of ground to plant peas; two rows, twelve feet by four, hardly produce a + plateful. Manioc ripens between the sixth and ninth month, plantains and + bananas once a year, cotton and rice in four months, and maize in forty + days—with irrigation it is easy to grow three annual crops. The time + for planting is before the rains, which here last six weeks to two months, + September and October. The staple of commerce is now the nguba, or + ground-nut (plural, jinguba), which Merolla calls incumba, with sometimes + a little milho (maize), and Calavance beans. Of fruits we find trellised + grapes, pines, and guavas, which, as at Fernando Po, are a weed. The + agrumi, limes, oranges and citrons are remarkably fine, and hold, as of + old, a high place in the simple medicines of the country. A cup of + lime-leaf tea, drunk warm in the morning, is the favourite emetic and + cathartic: even in Pliny's day we find "Malus Assyria, quam alii vocant + medicam (Mediam?, venenis medetur" (xii. 7). On the Gold Coast and in the + Gaboon region, colic and dysentery are cured by a calabash full of lime- + juice, "laced" with red pepper. The peculiarity of European vegetables + throughout maritime Congo and Angola is the absence of all flavour + combined with the finest appearance; it seems as though something in the + earth or atmosphere were wanting to their full development. Similarly, + though in the upper regions the climate is delicious, the missionaries + could not keep themselves alive, but died of privation, hardship, and + fatigue. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VIII. — A Visit to Banza Chisalla. + </h2> + <p> + Boma, at the head of the Congo delta, the great dépôt between the interior + and the coast, owes its existence wholly to + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "the cruel trade + Which spoils unhappy Afric of her sons." +</pre> + <p> + Father Merolla (1682), who visited it from "Angoij," our "Cabinda," speaks + of it as a pretty large island, tributary to the Mani-Congo, extremely + populous, well supplied with provisions, and outlaid by islets belonging + to the Count of Sonho. Tuckey's Embomma was an inland banza or town, and + the site of the factories was called Market Point; the Expedition map and + the hydrographic chart term it Loombee, the latter being properly the name + of a large quitanda (market) lying two miles to the north-west. Early in + the present century it is described as a village of a hundred huts, + opposite which trading vessels anchored under charge of the "Fuka or + king's merchant;" no market was held there, lest, in case of dispute, the + royal person might suffer. Although the main features of our maps are + still correct, there have been great changes in the river-bed between + Porto da Lenha and Boma, especially about the latter place, which should + be transferred from its present site to Lumbi. The broad Chisalla Creek, + which Mr. Maxwell calls Logan, between the northern bank and the island + "Booka Embomma," is now an arm only 200 feet wide. In fact all the bank + about Boma, like the lower delta, urgently calls for re-surveying. + </p> + <p> + This part of the river belongs to the "Rei dos Reis," Nessalla, under whom + are some ten chief officers called "kings," who buy and sell; indeed, + Africa knows no other. The title is prostituted throughout the West Coast, + but it is nowhere so degraded as in the Congo regions; the whites abuse it + to flatter the vanity of the astute negro, who accepts it with a view to + results—a "king- dash" must, of course, be greater than that of a + subject. Every fellow with one black coat becomes a "preese" (prince), and + if he has two he styles himself a "king." Without permission of the "King + of Kings" we could obtain neither interpreter, canoe, nor crew; a visit to + Banza Chisalal was therefore necessary and, as it would have been vain to + ask anything empty-handed, I took with me a fine spangled cloak, a piece + of chintz, and a case of ship's rum, the whole worth £9. + </p> + <p> + At 6.30 A.M. on September 5th we set out up stream in a fine canoe, + wall-sided and rather crank, but allowing the comfort of chairs. She was + of Mayumba make, superior to anything built on the river, and the six men + that drove her stood up to pole, and paddle. Above Boma the hills, which + are the outlines of the west African Ghats, form a graceful semicircle, + separated from the water by a flat terrace garnished with little villages + and tree- islets. On the north bank are many of the crater-like sinks + which dot the coast from the Gaboon to Loango. We hugged the right side to + avoid the rapid swirl; there was no backwater at the points, and hard work + was required to prevent our being swept against the boulders of gneiss, + schiste, and pudding-stone edging the shores and stretching into the + stream. Here the fish is excellent as at Porto cla Lenha, and we found the + people catching it in large spoon-shaped basins: I enquired about the + Peixe mulher (woman- fish), the French sirène, which old missioners + describe as an African mermaid, not exactly as she appeared to the "lovely + lord of Colonsay," and which Barbot figures with "two strutting breasts." + He makes the flesh taste like pork, and tells us that the small bones of + the hand were good for gravel, whilst bracelets made of the left rib were + worn near the heart, to stop bleeding. This manatus, like the elephant and + the hippopotamus, has long disappeared before the gun. + </p> + <p> + After some three quarters of an hour we reached the entrance of Chisalla + Creek, which is the northernmost branch of the main stream. On the left + (north) was a plain showing traces of a large village, and we sighted our + first grass-island—a compact mass of fibrous, earth-washed roots and + reedy vegetation, inhabited by serpents and ardeine birds. To the right, + or southward, rises the tall island of Boma, rocky and wooded, which a + narrow channel separates from its eastern neighbour, Chisalla Islet. The + latter is the royal Pere la Chaise, the graves being kept carefully + concealed; white men who have visited the ground to shoot antelope have + had reason to regret the step. Here also lie three officers of the Congo + Expedition— Messrs. Galwey, Tudor, and Cranch—forgotten, as + Gamboa and Reitz at Mombasah. + </p> + <p> + The banks of the winding creek were beautified with the malaguetta pepper, + the ipomsea, the hibiscus, and a yellow flower growing upon an aquatic + plant like a magnified water-cress. Animal life became somewhat less rare; + we saw sandpipers, hawks, white and black fish-eagles, and long-legged + water-hens, here supposed to give excellent sport. An embryo rapid, formed + by a gneiss-band connecting the north bank with the islet, delayed us, and + the rocks on the right showed pot-holes dug by the poling- staves; during + the rains canoes from Boma avoid this place, and seek fuel down stream. + After a total of two hours and a quarter we reached Banza Chisalla: it is + a "small country," in African parlance, a succursal of Boma proper, the + Banza on the hills beyond the reedy, grassy plain. The site is charming—a + flat palm-orchard backed by an amphitheatre of high-rolling ground, and + the majestic stream approaches it through a gate, whose right staple is + the tall Chisalla, and whose left is a rocky islet with outlying needles. + </p> + <p> + We ascended the river-bank, greeted by the usual accidents of an African + reception; the men shouted, the women rushed screaming under cover, and + the children stood howling at the horrible sight. A few paces placed us at + the "palace," a heap of huts, surrounded by an old reed-fence. The + audience-room was a trifle larger than usual, with low shady eaves, a + half-flying roof, and a pair of doorways for the dangerous but + indispensable draught; a veteran sofa and a few rickety chairs composed + the furniture, and the throne was known by its boarded seat, which would + have been useful in taking a "lamp-bath." + </p> + <p> + Presently entered the "Rei dos Reis," Nessalla: the old man, whose + appearance argued prosperity, was en grande tenue, the State costume of + Tuckey's, not of Merolla's day. The crown was the usual "berretta" + (night-cap) of open work; the sceptre, a drum-major's staff; the robes, a + "parochial" beadle's coat of scarlet cloth, edged with tinsel gold lace. + His neck was adorned with hair circlets of elephants' tails, strung with + coral and beads; the effect, to compare black with white, was that of Beau + Brummell's far-famed waterfall tie, and the head seemed supported as if on + a narrow-rimmed "charger." The only other ornament was a broad silver ring + welded round the ankle, and drawing attention to a foot which, all things + considered, was small and well shaped. + </p> + <p> + Some of the chiefs had copper rings of home manufacture, with neatly cut + raised figures. The king held in his right hand an article which at first + puzzled us—a foot's length of split reed, with the bulbous root + attached. He may not, like his vassals, point with the finger, and without + pointing an African can hardly give an order. Moreover, the Sangálávú or + Malaguetta pepper (Amomum granum Paradisi), fresh or old, is not only a + toothstick, but a fetish of superior power when carried on journeys. + Professor Smith writes "Sangala woo," and tells us that it was always kept + fresh in the house, to be rolled in the hands when invoking the Fetish + during war-time; moreover, it was chewed to be spat at the enemy. Possibly + he confuses it with the use as a tooth-stick, the article which Asia and + Africa prefer to the unclean hog's- bristle brush of Europe. + </p> + <p> + On the left of the throne sat the Nchinu, or "second king," attired in a + footman's livery of olive-coloured cloth, white-worn at the seams, and + gleaming with plated buttons, upon which was the ex-owner's crest—a + cubit arm. + </p> + <p> + The stranger in Africa marvels why men, who, as Dahome shows, can affect a + tasteful simplicity, will make themselves such "guys." When looking at + these caricatures, he is tempted to read (literally) learned Montesquieu, + "It is hardly to be believed that God, who is a wise being, should place a + soul, especially a good soul, in such a black, ugly body," and to consider + the few exceptions as mere "sporting plants." But the negro combines with + inordinate love of finery the true savage taste—an imitative nature,—and + where he cannot copy the Asiatic he must ape the European; only in the + former pursuit he rises above, in the latter he sinks below his own proper + standard. Similarly, as a convert, he is ennobled by El Islam; in rare + cases, which may be counted upon the fingers, he is civilized by + Christianity; but, as a rule, the latter benefits him so far only as it + abolishes the barbarous and murderous rites of Paganism. + </p> + <p> + But there is also a sound mundane reason which causes the African "king" + to pose in these cast-off borrowed plumes. Contrast with his three-quarter + nude subjects gives him a name; the name commands respect; respect + increases "dash;" and dash means dollars. For his brain, dense and dead + enough to resist education, is ever alive and alert to his own interest; + whilst the concentration of its small powers prevails against those who, + in all other points, are notably his superiors. The whole of negro Africa + teaches this lesson. "The Ethiopians," says Father Merolla, "are not so + dull and stupid as is commonly imagined, but rather more subtle and + cunning than ordinary;" and he adds an instance of far-sighted treachery, + which would not have been despicable even in a Hindoo. + </p> + <p> + A desultory palaver "came up;" the soul of the meeting not being present. + M. Pissot explained my wish to "take walk and make book," carefully + insisting upon the fact that I came to spend, not to gain money. The + grizzled senior's face, before crumpled like a "wet cloak ill laid up," + expanded at these last words, and with a grunt, which plainly meant "by' + m' by," he rose, and retired to drink— a call of nature which the + decencies of barbarous dignity require to be answered in private. He + returned accompanied by his nephew, Manbuku Prata (pronounced Pelata), the + "Silver Chief Officer," as we might say, Golden Ball. The title is + vulgarly written Mambuco; the Abbé Proyart prefers Ma-nboukou, or "prince + who is below the Makaia in dignity." The native name of this third + personage was Gidifuku. It was a gorgeous dignitary: from the poll of his + night-cap protruded a dozen bristles of elephant's tail hair, to which a + terminal coral gave the graceful curve of a pintado's crest, and along his + ears, like the flaps of a travelling casquette, hung two dingy little + mirrors of talc from Cacongo, set in clumsy frames of ruddled wood. Masses + of coral encircled his neck, and the full-dress naval uniform of a French + officer, with epaulettes of stupendous size, exposed a zebra'd guernsey of + equivocal purity. A long black staff, studded with broad-headed brass + beads, served to clear the room of the lieges, who returned as fast as + they were turned out—the baton was evidently not intended to be used + seriously. + </p> + <p> + But the Manbuku Prata is not a mere "Punch in a puppet show." His face + expresses more intelligence and resolution than usual, and his Portuguese + is not the vile article of the common trader. He means business. When + other chiefs send their "sons," that is their slaves, to fight, he leads + them in person—venite, non ite. The French "Emigration Libre" put + 30,000 dollars into his pocket, and he still hopes against hope to ship + many a cargo for the Banana factory. He has some 300 armed serviles at + Chinímí and Lámbá, two villages perched like condors' nests upon hills + commanding the river's northern bank, and, despite the present dearth of + "business," he still owns some 100,000 francs in cloth and beads, rum and + gunpowder. + </p> + <p> + As the "Silver Minister" took his seat upon the ground before the king, + all removed their caps with a simultaneous grunt and performed the + "Sákilá" or batta-palmas; this hand-clapping must be repeated whenever the + simplest action is begun or ended by king or chief. Monteiro and Gamitto + (pp. 101 et seg.) refer to the practice everywhere on the line of country + which they visited: there it seems to be even a more ceremonious affair + than in the Congo. The claps were successively less till they were hardly + audible; after a pause five or six were given, and the last two or three + were in hurried time, the while without pronouncing a word. The palaver + now opened steadily with a drink: a bottle of trade "fizz" was produced + for the white man, and rum for his black congeners; then the compliment of + healths went all round. After this we fell to work at business. By dint of + abundant wrangling and with an immense display of suspicion, natural under + the circumstances, it was arranged that the king should forward me in a + couple of his own canoes to Banza Nokki, the end of river navigation, as + we were told, and falsely told; in my turn I was to pay goods valued about + £6, at least three times the usual tariff. They consisted of fourteen red + caps, as many "sashes," and fifty-two fathoms of cloth for the crew; ten + Peças de lei or Chiloes for each interpreter, and two pieces for the + canoes. I should have given four fathoms for each man and the same for + each boat. The final scene was most gratifying to the African mind: I + solemnly invested old Nessala with the grand cloak which covered his other + finery; grinning in the ecstasy of vanity, he allowed his subjects to turn + him round and round, as one would a lay figure, yet with profound respect, + and, lastly, he retired to charm his wives. + </p> + <p> + This part of the negotiations ended with presenting some "satin stripe" + and rum to the Nchinu and Manbuku Prata, and with shaking hands—a + dangerous operation. The people are cleanly; they wash when rising, and + before as well as after every meal; they are always bathing, yet from + prince to pauper, from baby to grey beard, they are affected with a psora + known by its Portuguese name, "sarnas." The Congo "fiddle" appears first + between the articulations of the fingers, and bleaches the hands and + wrists as if it were leprosy. Yet I did not see a single case of true + lepra Arabum, or its modifications, the huge Barbadoes leg + (elephantiasis), and the sarcoma scrotale and sarcocele of Zanzibar and + East Africa. From the extremities the gale extends over the body, + especially the shins, and the people, who appear in the perpetual practice + of scalpturigo, attribute it to the immoderate use of palm wine. I + observed, however, that Europeans, in the river, who avoid the liquor, are + hardly ever free from this foul blood-poison, and a jar of sulphur mixture + is a common article upon the table. Hydrocele is not unfrequent, but + hardly so general as in the Eastern Island; one manner of white man, a + half caste from Macáo, was suffering with serpigo, and boasted of it. + </p> + <p> + All predicted to me a similar fate from the "botch of Congo," but happily + I escaped. Indeed, throughout the West African Coast, travellers risk + "craw-craw," a foul form of the disease, seen on board the African + steamers. Kru-men touching the rails of the companion ladders, have + communicated it to passengers, and these to their wives and families. + </p> + <p> + The town was neat and clean as the people. The houses were built upon + raised platforms, and in the little fenced fields the Cajanus Indicus + vetch was conspicuous. In Hindostani it is called Thur, or Doll-plant, by + the Eastern Arab Turiyan, in Kisawahili Mbarazi, in Angola voando + (Merolla's Ouuanda), and in the Brazil Guandu.<a href="#linknote-9" + name="linknoteref-9" id="linknoteref-9"><small>9</small></a> The people + had lost their fear, and brought their exomphalous little children, who + resembled salmon fry in the matter of umbilical vesicles, to be patted by + the white man; a process which caused violent screams and in some cases + nearly induced convulsions— the mothers seemed to enjoy the horror + displayed by their hopefuls. There is little beauty amongst the women, and + settled Europeans prefer Cabinda girls. The latter have perhaps the most + wiry and wig-like hair on the whole West African coast, where all hair is + more or less wiry and wig- like. Cloth was less abundant in the village + than a smear of red; the bosom even after marriage was unveiled, and the + rule of fashion was shown by binding it tightly down. The rich wore + armlets and leglets of staircase rods, brass and copper, like the metal + gaiters and gauntlets of the Gaboon River. The only remarkable object was + the Quesango, a wooden effigy of a man placed in the middle of the + settlement: Battel mentions it amongst the "Gagas or Guides," and Barbot + terms it "Likoku Mokisi." Three faint hurrahs, a feeble African echo of + England like the "hoch!" of Vienna, and the discharge of a four- pounder + were our parting honours. + </p> + <p> + We returned viâ the gateway between the two islets. On the south- eastern + flank of Chisalla is a dwarf precipice called Mbondo la Zumba and, + according to the interpreters, it is the Lovers' Leap of Tuckey. But its + office must not be confounded with that attributed to the sinister-looking + scaur of Leucadia; here the erring wives of the Kings of Boma and their + paramours found a Bosphorus. The Commander of the First Congo Expedition + applies the name to a hanging rock on the northern shore, about eighteen + miles higher up stream. A portentous current soon swept us past Père la + Chaise, and shortly after noon we were comfortably at breakfast with Sr. + Pereira. + </p> + <p> + During the last night we had been kept awake by the drumming and fifing, + singing and shouting, weeping and howling, pulling at accordions and + striking the monotonous Shingungo. Merolla names this cymbal Longa, and + describes it justly as two iron bells joined by an arched bar: I found it + upon the Tanganyika Lake, and suffered severely from its monotonous + horrors. Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 232) give an illustration of what is + known in the Cazembe's country as "Gomati:" The Mchua or gong-gong of + Ashanti has a wooden handle connecting the cones. Our palhabote had + brought up the chief Mashel's bier, and to-day we have the satisfaction of + seeing it landed. A kind of palanquin, covered with crimson cloth and + tinsel gold like a Bombay "Tabút," it had three horns or prominences, two + capped with empty black bottles, and the central bearing the deceased's + helmet; it was a fancy article, which might have fitted him of Gath, with + a terrific plume and the spoils of three horses in the sanguine hues of + war. Although eight feet long by five broad, the coffin was said to be + quite full. The immense respect which the Congoese bear to their rulers, + dead as well as alive, prevented my verifying the accounts of the slave + dealers. I knew that the chief who had died at Kinsembo, had been dried on + a bamboo scaffolding over a slow fire, and lay in state for some weeks in + flannel stockings and a bale of baize, but these regions abound in local + variations of custom. Some declared, as we find in Proyart, that the + corpse had been mummified by the rude process of smoking; others that it + had been exposed for some days to the open air, the relatives sitting + round to keep off the flies till preliminarily bandaged. According to + Barbot (iii. 23), the people of Fetu on the Gold Coast and the men of + Benin used to toast the corpse on a wooden gridiron; and the Vei tribe, + like the Congoese, still fumigate their dead bodies till they become like + dried hams. This rude form of the Egyptian rite is known to East as well + as to West Africa: Kimera, late King of Uganda, was placed upon a board + covering the mouth of a huge earthern pot heated from below. + </p> + <p> + Instances are known of bodies in the Congo region remaining a year or two + above ground till the requisite quantity of fine stuffs has been procured—the + larger the roll the greater the dignity, and sometimes the hut must be + pulled down before it can be removed. Here, as on the Gold Coast, we find + the Jewish practice recorded by Josephus of converting the tomb into a + treasury; in the case of Mashel some £600 in gold and silver, besides + cloth, beads, and ornaments, shared, they say, his fate. The missionaries + vainly fought against these customs, which are evidently of sentimental + origin— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Now bring the last sad gifts, with these + The last lament be said; + Let all that pleased and still may please + Be buried with the dead." +</pre> + <p> + The bier was borne by slaves, as the head men would not even look at it; + at times the carriers circled round, as if to deprecate the idea that they + were hurrying it to its bourne. The grave was a pit fifteen to twenty feet + deep, cut like a well, covered with stones to keep out wild beasts, and + planted round with the cylindrical euphorbia by way of immortelles. + </p> + <p> + I could not find out if the Congoese still practise the vivi- sepulture so + common on the Western Coast—the "infernal sacrifices of man's flesh + to the memory of relatives and ancestors," as the old missioners + energetically expressed themselves. According to Battel, the "Giaghi" + corpse was seated as if alive in a vault; in this "infernal and noisome + dungeon" were placed two wives with their arms broken, and thus there was + no danger of the Zumbi or ghost killing men by reapparition. When the king + of Old Calabar died, a huge hole was dug, with an off chamber for two + sofas, one of which supported the dressed and ornamented corpse. Personal + attendants, such as the umbrella, sword, and snuff-box bearers, holding + the insignia of their offices, together with sundry virgins, were either + slaughtered or thrown in alive, a rude in pace. Quantities of food and + trade goods, especially coppers, were heaped up; after which the pit was + filled and the ground was levelled. The less wealthy sort of "gentlemen" + here are placed in smaller graves near the villages; and the slaves are + still "buried with the burial of an ass,"— cast forth into the bush. + </p> + <p> + Yet, by way of showing themselves kind to the dead, the Congoese are + "commonly very cruel to the living." Lately, a chief, called from his + wealth, "Chico de Ouro" (Golden Frank) died somewhat suddenly. The Nganga + or medicine man who, on such occasions, here as elsewhere, has the jus + vitæ et necis, was called in; he charged one of the sons with parricide by + witchcraft, and the youth was at once pierced by the bayonets of his + brothers. "Golden Frank" was peculiar in his ways. He used to entertain + the factors at dinner, imitating them from soup to cheese; his only + objections were to tea, and to drinking toasts out of anything but the pet + skull of an enemy: it was afterwards placed upon his grave. + </p> + <p> + Boma is no longer "the emporium of the Congo Empire," if it ever did + deserve that title. Like Porto da Lenha, it is kept up by the hopes of + seeing better days, which are not doomed to dawn. Even at the time of my + visit some 400 to 500 negroes were under guard in a deserted factory, and, + whilst we were visiting Nessalla, they were marched down to bathe. When I + returned from the cataracts, the barracoon contained only fifty or sixty, + the rest having been shunted off to some unguarded point. At a day's + notice a thousand, and within a week 3,000 head could be procured from the + adjoining settlements, where the chattels are kept at work. As in Tuckey's + day, "those exported are either captives in war or condemned criminals." + During the Free Emigration as much as $80 have been paid per man, a large + sum for "Congoes:" whilst a cargo of 500 "Minas" (Guinea negroes) loses at + most 20 per cent., these less hardy gangs seldom escape without at least + double the deaths by dysentery or some other epidemic. Now they are freely + offered for $10 to $20, but there are no buyers; the highest bid of which + I heard was $100 for a house-"help." + </p> + <p> + The slave-traders in the Congo look upon their employment as did the + contrabandist in the golden days of smuggling; the "free sailor" whom + Marryatt depicts, a law-breaker, yet not less a very pleasant, + companionable fellow. The unhappy differences between the late British + Commissioner for Loanda and the Judge of the mixed Court, Sr. José Julio + Rodriguez, who followed his enemy to the grave on April 12, 1863, rendered + São Paulo anything but a pleasant place to an English resident; but the + rancour had not extended to the Congo, and, so far from showing chagrin, + the agents declared that without the "coffin squadron," negroes would have + been a mere drug in the market. The only déplaisir is that which I had + already found in a Gaboon factory, the excessive prevalence of petty + pilfering. The Moleques or house-boys steal like magpies, even what is + utterly useless to them; these young clerks of St. Nicholas will scream + and writhe, and confess and beg pardon under the lash, and repeat the + offence within the hour: as they are born serviles, we cannot explain the + habit by Homer's, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Jove fixed it certain that whatever day + Makes man a slave takes half his worth away." +</pre> + <p> + One of our watches was found in the pocket of a noble interpreter, who, + unabashed, declared that he placed it there for fear of its being injured; + and the traders are constantly compelled to call in the Fetishman for the + protection of their stores against the prigging chiefs. Yet in Tuckey's + time there was only one thief at Boma, a boy who stole a knife, confessed, + and restored it. During a month's residence amongst the pagans of the + interior, where the houses swarmed with serviles, and where my outfit, + which was never locked up, must have represented a plate-chest in England, + not the smallest article was "found missing," nor could anything be + touched except by collusion with the head man. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IX. — Up the Congo to Banza Nokki. + </h2> + <p> + For a wonder the canoes came in time, and, despite their mat- sails, we + could not complain of them. There were twelve paddlers two for the stem, + and two for the stern of each craft, under a couple of interpreters, + Jotakwassi and Nchama-Chamvu, who were habited in European frock-coats of + broadcloth, and in native terminations mostly "buff." Our excellent host + bade us a kindly adieu, with many auguries of success—during the + last night the frogs had made a noise in the house. Briefly, we set out on + September 6th. + </p> + <p> + In the forty-five miles between Boma, where we enter the true trough of + the Congo, and the landing-place of Banza Nokki below the cataracts, there + are half-a-dozen reaches, the shortest of three, the longest of fifteen + miles. They are not straight, as upon the chart; the windings of the bed + exclude direct vision, and the succession of points and bays suggest, like + parts of the Rhine, a series of mountain-tarns. The banks show the + high-water level in a low shelf, a ribbon of green, backed by high rolling + hills, rounded and stony, with grass dry at this season; the formation is + primitive, and the material of the lower bed has been held to "prove the + probability that the mountains of Pernambuco, Rio de Janeiro, and other + adjacent parts of South America, were primevally connected with the + opposite chains, that traverse the plains of Congo and Loango." In parts + the rocks fall bluff into the river, and here the current rushes past like + a mill-race without a shadow of backwater. The heights are intersected by + gullies and ravines, of which I counted sixty-nine on the right and + fifty-four on the left bank; many of them are well wooded, and others are + fronted by plains of the reeds and flags, which manufacture floating + islands, cast loose, like those of the Niger, about the end of July by the + "Malka" rains. About a dozen contained running water: Captain Tuckey did + not see one that would turn a mill in August and September; but in + November and December all these fiumaras will discharge torrents. + </p> + <p> + The breadth of the entroughed bed varies from 700 yards to two miles where + it most dispreads itself. The current increases from the normal three to + five knots in rare places; the surface loses the glassiness of the lower + section, and at once shows the boiling and swirling which will be noticed + near the cataracts. The shores are often foul, but the midway is mostly + clear, and, where sunken rocks are, they are shown by whirlpools. The flow + of the tide, or rather the damming up of the lower waters between Porto da + Lenha and the mouth, causes a daily rise, which we found to measure about + a foot; thus it assists in forming a treble current, the rapid down-flow + in the Thalweg being subtended by a strong backwater on either side + carrying a considerable portion in a retrograde direction, and showing a + sensible reflux; this will continue as far as the rapids. In the Amazonas + the tides are felt a hundred leagues from the mouth; and, whilst the + stream moves seawards, the level of the water rises, proving an evident + under-current. Mr. Bates has detected the influence of oceanic tides at a + point on the Tapajos, 530 miles distant from its mouth, such is the + amazing flatness of the country's profile: here we find the reverse. + </p> + <p> + The riverine trough acts as wind-conductor to a strong and even violent + sea-breeze; on the lower section it begins as a ground- current—if + the "bull" be allowed—a thin horizontal stratum near the water, it + gradually curves and slides upwards as it meets the mountain flanks, + forming an inverted arch, and extending some 2,000 to 3,000 feet above the + summits. At this season it is a late riser, often appearing about 3 P.M., + and sometimes its strength is not exhausted before midnight. The brown + water, grass-sheeted at the sides, conceals the bright yellow sand of the + bed; when placed in a tumbler it looks clear and colourless, and the taste + is perfectly sweet—brackishness does not extend far above Porto da + Lenha. Yet at Boma the residents prefer a spring near the factories, and + attribute dysentery to the use of river-water. According to Mr. George + Maxwell, the supply of the lower bed has the quality of rotting cables, + and the same peculiarity was attributed to the Tanganyika. + </p> + <p> + Of late years no ship has ventured above Boma, and boats have ascended + with some difficulty, owing to the "buffing stream." Yet there is no + reason why the waters should not be navigated, as proposed in 1816, by + small steamers of good power, and the strong sea-breeze would greatly + facilitate the passage. In older and more enterprising days + merchant-schooners were run high up the Zaire. The master of a vessel + stated to Tuckey that he "had been several voyages up to the distance of + 140 miles from the mouth" without finding any difficulty. + </p> + <p> + Our course passed by Banza Chisalla where, as we had paid double, there + was a vain attempt to make us pay treble. Travelling up the south-eastern + reach, we passed a triangular insulated rock off the southern bank, and + then the "diabolitos" outlying Point Kilu, opposite Banza Vinda on the + other side. A second reach winding to the north-east showed on the right + Makula (Annan) River, and a little further Munga-Mungwa (Woodhouslee); + between them is the terminus of the São Salvador road. On the northern + bank where the hills now become rounded mountains, 1,500 feet above the + stream, perches Chinimi the village of Manbuku Prata, who expects canoes + here to await his orders; and who was sorely offended because I passed + down without landing. The next feature of the chart, Matádi "Memcandi," is + a rocky point, not an island. Turning a projection, Point Makula (Clough + Corner), we entered No. 3, elbow bending southeast; on its concave + northern side appeared the settlement Vinda la Nzádi. This is the Vinda le + Zally of Tuckey; on the chart Veinde len Zally, and according to others + Vinda de Nzadi, or village of the Zaire River. It is probably the "Benda" + of the Introduction (p. xxxiv.); and as b and v sound alike in Fiote, + Cabinda, Cabenda or Kabendah is evidently Ca-vinda—great village. + </p> + <p> + Our terminus that day was the usual resting-place of travellers, "Mfumba" + behind Nkumungu (Point) Kaziwa, a mass of granitoid slabs, with a single + tree for landmark. Opposite us was Sandi ya Nzondo, which others call + Sanga ya Ngondo; in the chart this one- tree island is written "Catlo + Zonda," it is the first of two similar formations. Oscar Rock, its western + (down stream) neighbour, had shared the fate of "Soonga lem Paccula," + (Zunga chya Makula?) a stone placed in the map north-east of the Makula or + Annan debouchure; both were invisible, denoted only by swirls in the + water. We had taken seven hours to cover what we easily ran down in two, + and we slept comfortably with groan of rock and roar of stream for + lullaby. + </p> + <p> + September 7.—Our course now lay uninterruptedly along the left bank, + where the scenery became yet more Rhine-like, in natural basins, reaches + on the chart: here and there rugged uprocks passably simulated ruined + castles. The dwarf bays of yellow sand were girt by a goodly vegetation, + the palm and the calabash only telling us that we were in Africa. + </p> + <p> + Our men pointed to the work of a Nguvu or hippopotamus, which they say + sometimes attacks canoes; they believe with Tuckey that the river-horses + cause irregularity of soundings by assembling and trampling deep holes in + the bed; but the Ngadi is a proof that they do not, as M. du Chaillu + supposes, exclusively affect streams with shoals and shallows. The jacaré + (crocodile) is known especially to avoid the points where the current + sweeps swiftly past, yet no one will hang his hand over the canoe into the + water: we did not see any of these wretches, but at Boma Coxswain Deane + observed one about sixteen feet long. + </p> + <p> + Curls of smoke arose from the mountain-walls of the trough, showing that + the bush was being burned; and spired up from a grassy palm-dotted plain, + between two rocky promontories on the left bank, the site of the Chacha or + Wembo village: in a gap of the herbage stood half-finished canoes, and a + man was bobbing with rod, line, and float. After an hour's paddling we + halted for breakfast under "Alecto Rock," a sheer bluff of reddish schist, + 150 feet high; here a white trident, inverted and placed ten feet above + the water, showed signs of H.M. Ship "Alecto," (late) Captain Hunt, whose + boat passed up in 1855. The people call it Chimbongolo. The river is now + three quarters of a mile wide, and the charming cove shows the brightest + of sands and the densest of vegetation waving in the cool land-wind. + </p> + <p> + Resuming our way at 9 P.M., we passed on the left "Scylla Rocks," then a + wash, and beyond them four high and tree-clad heads off the right bank. + Three are islets, the Zunga chya Gnombe—of the bull—formed by + a narrow arm passing round them to the north: other natives called them + Zunga chya Umbinda, but all seem to differ. These are the Gombac Islands + of the chart, Hall Island being the easternmost, and the northern passage + between the three horns and the main is called by us "Gombac Creek." Half + an hour beyond was a mass of villages, in a large, grassy low-land of the + left bank, girt by mountains higher than those down stream. Some outlying + huts were called by the interpreters Suko Nkongo, and formed the "beach + town" of large interior settlements, Suko do Wembo and Mbinda. Others said + Lasugu or Sugo Nkongo, the Sooka Congo of the charts: others again for + "Mbinda" proposed "Mpeso Birimba." This is probably the place where + according to the mail of November, ‘73, diamonds were found, and having + been submitted to "Dr. Basham (Dr. Bastian before mentioned), Director of + the Museum of Berlin," were pronounced to be of very fine water. It is + possible that the sandstone may afford precious stones like the + itacolumite of the Brazil ("Highlands of the Brazil," i. 380), but the + whole affair proved a hoax. In mid-stream rose No. 2, "One-Tree Island," + Zunga chya Nlemba or Shika chya Nzondo; in Tuckey it is called Boola Beca + or Blemba (the husband) Rock; the old ficus dying at the head, was based + upon a pedestal which appeared groin-shaped from the east. Here the mirage + was very distinct, and the canoes seemed to fly, not to swim— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "As when far out of sea a fleet descried, + Hangs in the clouds." + + The northern bank shows a stony projection called by Maxwell +"Fiddler's Elbow;" it leads to the fourth reach, the second of +the north-eastern series; and the breadth of the stream, once +more a mountain lake, cannot be less than two miles. +</pre> + <p> + I foresaw trouble in passing these settlements. Presently a snake-like war + canoe with hawser-holes like eyes, crept out from the southern shore; a + second fully manned lay in reserve, lurking along the land, and armed men + crowned the rocks jutting into the stream. We were accosted by the first + craft, in which upon the central place of honour sat Mpeso Birimbá, a + petty chief of Suko Nkongo; a pert rascal of the French factory, habited + in a red cap, a green velvet waistcoat, and a hammock-shaped tippet of + pine-apple fibre; his sword was a short Sollingen blade. The visit had the + sole object of mulcting me in rum and cloth, and my only wish was + naturally to expend as little as possible in mere preliminaries. The name + of Manbuku Prata was duly thrown at him with but little effect: these + demands are never resisted by the slave-dealers. After much noise and + cries of "Mwendi" (miser, skin-flint) on the part of the myrmidons, I was + allowed to proceed, having given up a cloth twenty-four yards long, and I + felt really grateful to the "trade" which had improved off all the other + riverine settlements. Beyond this point we saw nothing but their distant + smokes. + </p> + <p> + Before the second north-eastern reach, the interpreters exclaimed "Yellala + falla"—"the cataract is speaking," and we could distinctly hear the + cheering roar. The stream now assumed the aspect of Niagara below the + Falls, and the circular eddies boiling up from below, and showing distinct + convexity, suggested the dangerous "wells" of the northern seas. Passing + the "Three Weird Sisters," unimportant rocks off, the right bank, we + entered upon the remarkably long stretch, extending upwards of five miles, + and, from its predominating growth, we proposed to call it "Palmyra + Reach." The immediate river banks were clad with sedge, and the broad + leaves of the nymphæa, a plant like the calamus of Asia, but here used + only as a toothpick, began to oust the rushy and flaggy growth of the + lower bed. The pink balls of the spinous mimosa, and bright flowers, + especially the convolvulus and ipomaea, illuminated the dull green. The + grassy land at the foot of the mountains was a mere edging, faced by + outlying rocks, and we were shown the site of a village long ago + destroyed. + </p> + <p> + The Nteba, or palmyra nobilis, mixed here and there with a glorious + tamarind, bombax or calabash, forms a thin forest along the reach, and + rarely appears upon the upper hills, where we should expect it. The people + use both fruit and wine, preferring, however, the liquor of the Ebah (oil + palm-tree), and the autumnal fires can hardly affect so sturdy a growth. + The other trees are the mfuma, cotton-tree or bombax (Pentandria + truncospinoso, Smith), much valued as a canoe: Merolla uses Mafuma, a + plural form, and speaks of its "wonderful fine wool." The wild figs show + glorious stature, a truly noble growth, whose parents were sun and water. + </p> + <p> + The birds were lank black clivers (Plotus), exceedingly wild; the African + roller (Coracias); halcyons of several species, especially a white and + black kingfisher, nimble and comely; many swallows, horn-bills, and wild + pigeons which made the bush resound; ardeine birds, especially a heron, + like the large Indian "kullum;" kites, crows, "whip-poor-wills," and a + fine haliaetus, which flies high and settles upon the loftiest branches. + One of these eagles was shot, after a gorge of the electric fish here + common; its coat was black and white, and the eyes yellow, with dark + pupils. Various lizards ran over the rocks; and we failed to secure a + water-snake, the only specimen seen on the whole trip. + </p> + <p> + About noon we struggled past Point Masalla, our "Diamond Rock," a reef + ending in a triangular block, towering abruptly, and showing by drift-wood + a flood-line now twelve feet high. There are several of these + "bench-marks;" and the people declare that after every few years an + unusual freshet takes place. Here the current impinges directly upon the + rocks, making a strong eddy. "They die each time," said the interpreters, + as the canoemen, with loud shouts of "Vai ou nao Vai? Vai sempre! Vai + direito, ya mondele!" and "Arister," a mariner's word, after failing to + force the way, tumbled overboard, with a hawser of lliana to act as + tow-line. "Vai direito," according to Father Ciprani, also applies to a + "wonderful bird, whose song consists in these plain words;" and "Mondele" + is synonymous with the Utangáni of the Gaboon and the East African + Muzungu, a white man. + </p> + <p> + This bend was in former days the terminus of canoe travel up stream. + Grisly tales of mishap are told; and even now a musketry salute is fired + when boats pass without accident. Beyond Diamond Rock is a well-wooded, + stony cove, "Salan Kunkati:" Captain Tuckey makes this the name of the + Diamond Rock, and translates it "the strong feather." Quartz, before in + lines and bands, now appears in masses: the "Coal Rock," which the chart + places near Insála (Bechope Point) on the northern bank, was probably + submerged. High cliffs towered above us, and fragments which must have + weighed twenty tons had slipped into the water; one of them bore an + adansonia, growing head downwards. + </p> + <p> + The next feature was Npunga Bay, low and leek-green, between the + blue-brown water, here some 700 yards broad, and the yellow sun- burnt + trough-sides. A little further on, at 2 P.M., the canoe-men halted beyond + a sandy point with two large "Bondeiro" trees, and declared their part of + the bargain to have been fulfilled. "Bonderro" is a corruption of the + Lusitanianized imbundeiro, the calabash, or adansonia (digitata?): the + other baobab is called nkondo, probably the Aliconda and Elicandy of + Battel and old travellers, who describe the water-tanks hollowed in its + huge trunk, and the cloth made from the bark fibre. Thus the "Condo Sonio" + of the Chart should be "Nkondo Sonho," the latter a proper name. It is + seldom that we find trees turned to all the uses of which they are + capable: the Congo people despise the nutritious and slightly laxative + flour of the "monkey bread," and the young leaves are not used as pickles; + the bast is not valued for cloth and ropes, nor are the boles cut into + cisterns. + </p> + <p> + As will be seen, we ought to have insisted upon being paddled to Kala + cliff and bight, the Mayumba Bay of the Chart, where the bed trends + west-east, and shows the lowest rapids: the First Congo Expedition went up + even higher. At Nkongo ka Lunga, the point marked by two calabashes, we + inquired for the Nokki Congo, of which we had heard at Chisalla, and which + still exists upon the chart,—districts and villages being often + confounded. All laughed, and declared that the "port-town" had long been + sold off, the same had been the case, even in Tuckey's day, with the next + settlement, "Condo Sonio" (the Baobab of Sonho), formerly the great + up-stream mart, where the slave-traders transacted their business. All the + population was now transferred inland and, like our predecessors, we were + promised a two hours' climb over the rough, steep highland which lay in + front. Then we understood that "Nokki" was the name of a canton, not of a + settlement. Its south-eastern limits may have contained the "City of + Norchie, the best situated of any place hitherto seen in Ethiopia," where + Father Merolla (p. 280) baptized 126 souls,—and this is rendered + probable by the crucifixes and coleworts which were found by the First + Congo Expedition. + </p> + <p> + Here, then, at 97.50 miles from the sea, ended our clan's cruize. We could + only disembark upon the clean sand, surrounded by cool shade and blocks of + gneiss, the favourite halting-place, as the husks of ground-nuts show. + Nchama Chamvu was at once sent off with a present of gin and a verbal + report of arrival to Nessudikira Nchinu, (King), of Banza Nkaye, whilst we + made ready for a night's lodging à la belle étoile. The mesenger returned, + bringing a goat, and the good news that porters would be sent early next + morning. We slept well in the cool and dewless air, with little trouble + from mosquitoes. The voice of the cataract in its "sublime + same-soundingness" alone broke the silence, and the scenery suggested to + us, as to the first Britishers, that we might be bivouacking among the + "blue misty hills of Morven." + </p> + <p> + September 8.—Shortly after sunrise appeared Gidi Mavunga, father to + the "king," accompanied by five "princes," in the usual black coats, and + some forty slaves, armed with pistols, blunderbusses, and guns of French + and Yankee build. Our visitors wore the official berretta, European + shirts, that contrasted with coral necklaces and rings of zinc, brass, and + copper, and handsome waistcoats, fronted by the well-tanned spoil of some + "bush" animal, generally a wild cat, hanging like a Scotch sporran—this + is and has long been the distinctive sign of a "gentleman." According to + John Barbot (Supplement, Churchill, v. 471), all men in Loango were bound + to wear a furskin over their clothes, viz., of an otter, a tame cat, or a + cat-o'-mountain; a "great wood or wild cat, or an angali (civet-cat). + Besides which, they had very fine speckled spelts, called ‘ enkeny,' which + might be worn only by the king and his peculiar favourites." + </p> + <p> + On the great man's mat was placed a large silver-handled dagger, shaped + somewhat like a fish-slicer; and the handsome hammocks of bright-dyed + cottons brought down for our use shamed our humble ship's canvas. The + visitors showed all that African câlinerie, which, as fatal experience + told me, would vanish for ever, changing velvet paw to armed claws, at the + first question of cloth or rum. Meanwhile, we had only to visit their + village "upon the head of Gidi Mavunga." + </p> + <p> + About 9 A.M. we attacked a true Via Dolorosa, the normal road of the Lower + Congo. The steep ascent of dry, clayey soil was strewed with schist and + resplendent silvery gneiss; quartz appeared in every variety, crystallized + and amorphous, transparent white, opaque, dusky, and rusty. Tuckey's mica + slate appears to be mostly schist or gneiss: I saw only one piece of true + slate which had been brought from the upper bed. Merolla's talc is mostly + mica. + </p> + <p> + Followed an equally rough descent to a water set in fetid mud, its + iridescence declaring the presence of iron; oozing out of the ground, it + discharges during rains into the river: and, throughout the dry season, it + keeps its little valley green with trees and shrubs. I observed what + appeared to be the Esere or Calabar bean (Physostigma venenosum), whose + hairy pod is very distasteful to the travelling skin: it was a "Mucuna + urens." + </p> + <p> + Another scramble upon a highly inclined hogsback, where weather- worn + brown-black granite, protruded bone-like from the clay flesh, placed us at + the outlying village of Kinbembu, with its line of palms; here the aneroid + showed 1,322 feet. After a short rest, the hammock men resumed work over a + rough plateau: the rises were scattered with brush-wood, and the falls + were choked with the richest vegetation. Every hill discharged its own + rivulet bubbling over the rock, and the waters were mostly chalybeate. + </p> + <p> + Presently appeared a kind of barracoon, a large square of thick cane-work + and thatch about eight feet high, the Fetish house of the "Jinkimba" or + circumcised boys, who received us with unearthly yells. After a march of + an hour and three quarters,'covering five indirect and three direct miles + in a south-eastern rhumb, we reached Banza Nkaye, the royal village, where + the sympiesometer showed 1430 feet. Our bearers yelled "Abububu!" showing + that we had reached our destination, and the villagers answered with a cry + of "Abía-a-a!" The entrance was triumphal: we left the river with a tail + of fifty-six which had swelled to 150 ragged followers. + </p> + <p> + After a short delay we proceeded to the "palace," which was distinguished + from afar by a long projecting gable, forming a cool verandah. Descending + some three hundred feet, we passed a familiar sight in Africa, where + "arboribus suus horror inest." A tree-trunk bore three pegged skulls + somewhat white with age; eight years ago they were taken off certain + wizards who had bewitched their enemies. A labyrinthine entrance of + transparent cane-work served to prevent indecent haste, and presently we + found ourselves in presence of the Mfumo, who of course takes the title of + "Le Rei." Nessudikira was a "blanc-bec," aged twenty or twenty-one, who + till lately had been a trading lad at Boma—now he must not look upon + the sea. He appeared habited in the usual guy style: a gaudy fancy helmet, + a white shirt with limp Byronic collar, a broad-cloth frock coat, a purple + velvet gold-fringed loin-wrap: a theatrical dagger whose handle and sheath + bore cut- glass emeralds and rubies, stuck in the waist-belt; brass + anklets depended over naked feet, and the usual beadle's cloak covered the + whole. Truly a change for the worse since Tuckey's day, when a "savage + magnificence" showed itself in the display of lions' and leopards' skins; + when no women were allowed to be present, and when the boys could only + clap hands: now the verandah is surrounded by a squatting crowd and + resounds with endless chatter and scream. + </p> + <p> + Nessudikira, whose eyes by way of grandeur never wandered from the floor, + shook hands with us without rising from his chair, somewhat after the + fashion of certain women in civilized society, who would be dignified, and + who are not. His father, Gidi Mavunga, knelt before him on the ground, a + mat being forbidden in the presence: he made the "batta-palmas" before he + addressed his "filho de pistola," as he called him, in opposition to filho + de fazenda. The "king" had lately been crowned in virtue of his mother + being a uterine sister of his predecessor. Here the goods and dignity of + the father revert after death to his eldest maternal brother; to his + eldest nephew, that is, the eldest son of the eldest uterine sister, and, + all others failing, to the first born of the nearest maternal relative. + This subjection of sire to son is, however, mainly ceremonious: in private + life the king wears a cotton pagne, and his "governor" asserts his birth- + right even by wigging royalty. + </p> + <p> + We disposed ourselves upon seamen's chests covered with red baize, + fronting the semi-circle of frock-coated "gentlemen" and half-naked + dependants and slaves. Proceedings began with the "mata-bicho" de rigueur, + the inevitable preliminary and conclusion of all life-business between + birth and burial. The Congo traveller will hear "Nganna! mata bicho" + (Master! kill the worm, i.e., give me a dram), till the words seem, like + "Bakhshish" further east, to poison his ears. This excuse for a drink + arose, or is said to have arisen, from some epidemic which could be cured + only by spirits, and the same is the tradition in the New World + ("Highlands of the Brazil," i. chap. 38). Similarly the Fulas of the + Windward coast, who as strict Moslem will not drink fermented liquors, + hold a cup of rum to be the sovereignest thing in the world for taenia. + The entozoon of course gives rise to a variety of stale and melancholy + jokes about the early bird, the worm that dieth not, and so forth. + </p> + <p> + A greybeard of our gin was incontinently opened and a tumbler in a basin + was filled to overflowing; even when buying ground-nuts, the measure must + be heaped up. The glass was passed round to the "great gentlemen," who + drank it African fashion, expanding the cheeks, rinsing the mouth so that + no portion of the gums may lose their share, and swallowing the draught + with an affectedly wry face. The basin then went to the "little gentlemen" + below the salt, they have the "vinum garrulum," and they scrambled as well + as screamed for a sup of the precious liquor. I need hardly quote Caliban + and his proposed genuflections. + </p> + <p> + I had been warned by all the traders of the lower river that Banza Nokki + would be to me the far-famed point of which it was said, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Quern passar o Cabo de Nam + Ou tornará, ou n o," +</pre> + <p> + and prepared accordingly. Old Shimbal, the linguist, had declared that a + year would be required by the suspicious "bush-men" to palaver over the + knotty question of a stranger coming only to "make mukanda," that is to + see and describe the country. M. Pissot was forbidden by etiquette to + recognize his old employé (honours change manners here as in Europe), yet + he set about the work doughtily. My wishes were expounded, and every + possible promise of hammocks and porters, guides and interpreters, was + made by the hosts. The royal helmet was then removed, and a handsome + burnous was drawn over the king's shoulders, the hood covering the + berretta in most grotesque guise. After which the commander and M. Pissot + set out for the return march, leaving me with my factotum Selim and the + youth Nchama Chamvu. To the question "Quid muliere levius?" the scandalous + Latin writer answers "Nihil," for which I would suggest "Niger." At the + supreme moment the interpreter, who had been deaf to the charmer's voice + (offering fifty dollars) for the last three days, succumbed to the "truant + fever." He knew something of Portuguese; and, having been employed by the + French factory, he had scoured the land far and wide in search of + "emigrants." He began well; cooked a fowl, boiled some eggs, and made tea; + after which he cleared out a hut that was declared très logeable, and + found a native couch resembling the Egyptian kafas. + </p> + <p> + We slept in a new climate: at night the sky was misty, and the mercury + fell to 60° (F.). There was a dead silence; neither beast nor bird nor + sound of water was heard amongst the hills; only at times high winds in + gusts swept over the highlands with a bullying noise, and disappeared, + leaving everything still as the grave. I felt once more "at home in the + wilderness"—such, indeed, it appeared after Boma, where the + cockney-taint yet lingered. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter X. — Notes on the Nzadi or Congo River. + </h2> + <p> + And first, touching the name of this noble and mysterious stream. Diogo + Cam, the discoverer in 1485, called it River of Congo, Martin von Behaim + Rio de Padrao, and De Barros "Rio Zaire." The Portuguese discoveries + utilized by Dapper thus corrupted to the sonorous Zaïre, the barbarous + Nzadi applied by the natives to the lower bed. The next process was that + of finding a meaning. Philippo Pigafetta of Vicenza,<a href="#linknote-10" + name="linknoteref-10" id="linknoteref-10"><small>10</small></a> translated + Zaïre by "so, cioè Sapio in Latino;" hence Sandoval<a href="#linknote-11" + name="linknoteref-11" id="linknoteref-11"><small>11</small></a> made it + signify "Rio de intendimiento," of understanding. Merolla duly records the + contrary. "The King of Portugal, Dom John II., having sent a fleet under + D. Diego Cam to make discoveries in this Southern Coast of Africa, that + admiral guessed at the nearness of the land by nothing so much as by the + complexion of the waters of the Zaire; and, putting into it, he asked of + the negroes what river and country that was, who not understanding him + answered ‘Zevoco,' which in the Congolan tongue is as much as to say ‘I + cannot tell;' from whence the word being corrupted, it has since been + called Zairo." + </p> + <p> + D'Anville (1749), with whom critical African geography began, records + "Barbela," a southern influent, perhaps mythical, named by his + predecessors, and still retained in our maps: it is the Verbele of + Pigafetta and the Barbele of Linschoten, who make it issue either from the + western lake-reservoir of the Nile, or from the "Aquilunda" water, a name + variously derived from O-Calunga, the sea (?), or from A-Kilunda, of + Kilunda (?) The industrious compiler, James Barbot (1700), mentions the + "Umbre," the modern Wambre, rising in the northern mountains or, according + to P. Labat, in a lake: Dapper (1676), who so greatly improved the outline + of Africa, had already derived with De Barros the "Rio Zaïre" from a + central reservoir "Zaïre," whose island, the Zembre, afterwards became the + Vambere, Wambre, and Zambere, now identified through the Zambeze with the + Maravi, Nyassa or Kilwa water. The second or northernmost branch is the + Bancora of modern maps, the Brankare of Pigafetta, and the Bancari of + Cavazzi; it flows from the same mountain as the Umbre, and Duarte Lopez + (1560) causes it to mingle with the Zaire on the eastern borders of Pango, + at the foot of the Sierra del Crystal. In certain modern maps the Bankare + fork is called "Lekure,"and is made to receive the "Bambaye." The Barbela + again anastomoses with the Luba (?) or northern section of the Coango, + including its influent, the Lubilash; the Kasai (Kasabi) also unites with + the Coango, and other dotted lines show the drainage of the Lualaba into + the Kasai. + </p> + <p> + The Portuguese, according to Vasconcello, shunning all fanciful + derivations, were long satisfied to term the Congo "Rio de Patron" (Rio do + Padrao) from the first of memorial columns built at its mouth. In 1816 + Captain Tuckey's expedition learned with Maxwell that the stream should be + called, not Zaire, but Moienzi Enzaddi, the "great river" or the "river + which absorbs all other rivers." This thoroughly corrupted name, which at + once found its way into popular books, and which is repeated to the + present day even by scientific geographers, suggested to some theorists + "Zadi," the name of the Niger at Wassenah according to Sidi Harriet, as + related by the American, James Riley, of the brig "Commerce," wrecked on + August 28, 1815: others remembered "Zad" which Shaykh Yusuf (Hornemann), + misleading Mungo Park, learned to be the Niger east of Tinbuktu, "where it + turns off to the southward." I need hardly say that this "Zadi" and "Zad" + are evident corruptions of Bahr Shady, Shary, Shari, Chad, Tsad, and + Chadda, the swampy lake, alternately sweet and brackish, which was + formerly thrown by mistake into the Chadda River, now called the Binue or + Bimúwe, the great eastern fork of the Negro-land Nile: the true drainage + of the Chadda in ancient times has lately been determined by the + adventurous Dr. Nachtigal. Mr. Cooley<a href="#linknote-12" + name="linknoteref-12" id="linknoteref-12"><small>12</small></a> applied, + as was his wont, a superficial knowledge of Kibundo to Fiote or Congoese, + and further corrupted Moienzi Enzaddi to Muenya (for Menha or Menya) + Zinzádi-this Angolan "emendation," however, was not adopted. + </p> + <p> + The natives dwelling upon the Congo banks have, as usual in Africa, no + comprehensive generic term for the mighty artery of the West Coast. Each + tribe calls it by its own name. Thus even in Fiote we find "Mulángo," or + "Lángo," the water; "Nkoko," the stream, "Mwánza," the river, and "Mwanza + Nnenne," the great river, all used synonymously at the several places. The + only proper name is Mwánza Nzádi, the River Nzadi: hence Zaire, Zaïre, + Zahir, Zaira the "flumen Congo olim Zaida" (C. Barlé)—all + corruptions more or less common. + </p> + <p> + The homogeneous form of the African continent causes a whimsical family + resemblance, allowing for the difference of northern and southern + hemispheres, in its four arterial streams—the Nile and Niger, the + Congo and Zambeze. I neglect the Limpopo, called in its lower bed Espirito + Santo, Maniça, Manhiça (Manyisa), and Delagoa River; the Cunene (Nourse) + River, the Orange River, and others, which would be first-rate streams in + Europe, but are mere dwarfs in the presence of the four African giants. + The Nile and Niger, being mainly tenanted by Moslemized and comparatively + civilized races, have long been known, more or less, to Europe. The + Zambeze, owing to the heroic labours of Dr. Livingstone, is fast becoming + familiar to the civilized world; and the Congo is in these days (1873) + beginning at last to receive the attention which it deserves. It is one of + the noblest known to the world. Whilst the Mississippi drains a basin of + 1,244,000 English square miles, and at Carrollton, in Louisiana, + discharges as its mean volume for the year 675,000 cubic feet of water per + second, the Congo, with a valley area of 800,000 square miles, rolls at + least 2,500,000 feet. Moreover, should it prove a fact that the Nzadi + receives the Chambeze and its lakes, the Bangweolo (or Bemba), the Moero, + near which stands the capital of the Cazembe, the Kamalondo, Lui or + Ulenge, "Lake Lincoln" (Chibungo), and other unvisited waters, its area of + drainage will nearly equal that of the Nile. + </p> + <p> + The four arteries all arise in inner regions of the secondary age, + subtended east and west by ghats, or containing mountains mostly of + palaeozoic or primary formation, the upheaval of earthquakes and + volcanoes. These rims must present four distinct water-sheds. The sea-ward + slopes discharge their superabundance direct to the ocean often in broad + estuaries like the Gambia and the Gaboon, still only surface drains; + whilst the counterslopes pour inland, forming a network of flooded plains, + perennial swamps, streams, and lakes. The latter, when evaporation will + not balance the supply to a "sink," "escape from the basin of the central + plateau-lands, and enter the ocean through deep lateral gorges, formed at + some ancient period of elevation and disturbance, when the containing + chains were subject to transverse fractures." All four head in the region + of tropical rains, the home of the negro proper, extending 35° along the + major axis of the continent, between Lake Chad (north latitude 14° to + 15°), and the Noka a Batletle or Hottentot Lake, known to the moderns as + Ngami (south latitude 20° to 21°). Consequently all are provided with + lacustrine reservoirs of greater or smaller extent, and are subject to + periodical inundations, varying in season, according as the sun is north + or south of the line. Those of the northern hemisphere swell with the + "summer rains of Ethiopia," a fact known in the case of the Nile to + Democritus of Abdera (5th cent. B.C.), to Agatharchidas of Cnidos (2nd + cent. B.C.) to Pomponius Nida, to Strabo (xvii. 1), who traces it through + Aristotle up to Homer's "heaven-descended stream" and to Pliny (v. 10). + For the same reason the reverse is the case with the two southern + arteries; their high water, with certain limitations in the case of the + Congo, is in our winter. + </p> + <p> + By the condition of their courses, all the four magnates are broken into + cataracts and rapids at the gates where they burst through the lateral + chains; the Mosi-wa-túnya (smoke that thunders) of the Zambeze, and the + Ripon Falls discovered by Captains Speke and Grant upon the higher Nile, + are the latest acquisitions to geography, whilst the "Mai waterfall," + reported to break the Upper Congo, still awaits exploration. This accident + of form suggests a division of navigation on the maritime section and on + the plateau-bed which, in due time, will be connected, like the St. + Lawrence, by canals and railways. All but the Nzadi, and perhaps even + this, have deltas, where the divided stream, deficient in water-shed, + finds its sluggish way to the sea. + </p> + <p> + The largest delta at present known is the Nigerian, whose base measures + 155 direct geographical miles between the Rivers Kontoro east, and Benin + west. Pliny (v. 9) makes the Nile delta extend 170 Roman miles, from the + Canopic or African to the Pelusiac or Asiatic mouth, respectively distant + from the apex 146 and 166 miles; the modern feature has been reduced to 80 + miles from east to west, and a maximum of 90 from north to south. The + Zambeze extends 58 miles between the Kilimani or northern and the west + Luabo, Cuama or southern outlet-at least, if these mouths are not to be + detached. The Nzadi is the smallest, measuring a maximum of only 12 to 15 + miles from the Malela or Bananal Creek to the mangrove ditches of the + southern shore. + </p> + <p> + In these depressed regions the comparatively salubrious climates of the + uplands become dangerous to the European; the people also are degraded, + mostly pirates and water-thieves, as the Nigerian Ibos, the Congoese + Musulungus, and the Landim (Amalandi) Kafirs about the lower Zambeze. + There is a notable similarity in their productions, partly known to Pliny + (v. 8), who notices "the calamus, the papyrus, and the animals" of the + Nigris and the Nile. The black-maned lion and the leopard rule the wold; + the gorilla, the chimpanzee, and other troglodytes affect the thinner + forests; the giraffe, the zebra, and vast hosts of antelopes scour the + plains; the turtle swims the seas; and the hippopotamus, the crocodile, + and various siluridae, some of gigantic size, haunt the lakes and rivers. + The nymphæa, lotus or water-lily, forms rafts of verdure; and the + stream-banks bear the calabash, the palmyra, the oil-palm, and the + papyrus. Until late years it was supposed that the water-lily, sacred to + Isis, had been introduced into Egypt from India, where it is also a + venerated vegetable, and that it had died out with the form of Fetishism + which fostered it. It has simply disappeared like the crocodile from the + Lower Nile. Finally, to conclude this rapidly outlined sketch, all at the + present moment happily share the same fate; they are being robbed of their + last mysteries; the veil of Isis is fast yielding to the white man's + grasp. + </p> + <p> + We can hardly as yet answer the question whether the Congo was known to + the ancients. Our acquaintance with the oldest explorations is at present + fragmentary, and we are apt to assume that the little told us in our + school-books is the sum-total of former exploits. But possibly + inscriptions in the New World, as well as in the Old, may confirm the + "first circumnavigation" so simply recounted by Herodotus, especially that + of the Phoenicians, who set out from the Red Sea, and in three years + returned to the Mediterranean. The expression, "they had the sun to the + right," is variously explained. In the southern hemisphere the sailors + facing west during our winter would see the sun at noon on the right, and + in the northern hemisphere on the left. But why should they face west? In + the "Chronicle" of Schedel (p. ccxc., printed in 1793, Pigafetta, + Pinkerton, xi. 412) we read: "These two, (i.e. Jacob Cam and Martin Behem, + or Behaim) by the help of the gods, ploughing the sea at short distance + from shore, having passed the equinoctial line, entered the nether + hemisphere, where, fronting the east, their shadow fell towards the south, + and on their right hand." Perhaps it may simply allude to the morning sun, + which would rise to port as they went southwards, and to starboard as they + returned north. Again, the "First Overland Expedition" is related by the + Father of History with all the semblance of truth. We see no cause to + doubt that the Nasammones or Nasamones (Nás Amún), the five young Lybians + of the Great Syrtis (Fezzan) crossed the (watered strip along the + Mediterranean), passed through the (the "bush") on the frontier, still + famed for lions, and the immeasurably sandy wastes (the Sahara proper, + across which caravan lines run). The "band of little black men" can no + longer be held fabulous, since Miani and Schweinfurth added the Akya to M. + du Chaillu's Obongo. The extensive marshes were the northern limit of the + tropical rains, and the "City of Enchanters" is the type of many still + existing in inner Africa. The great river flowing from west to east, whose + crocodiles showed it to be the Nile, must have been the Niger. The + ancients knew middle Ethiopia to be a country watered by lakes and + streams: Strabo (xvii. 3) tells us that "some suppose that even the + Nile-sources are near the extremities of Mauritania." Hence, too, the + Nilides, or Lake of Standing Water in Pliny (v. 10). For the most part + they made a great central river traverse the northern continent from west + to east, whereas the Arabian geographers of the middle ages, who were + followed by the Portuguese, inverted the course. Both may be explained by + the lay of the Quorra and the Binúwe, especially the latter; it was + chronically confounded with the true Nile, whose want of western influents + was not so well known then as now. + </p> + <p> + The generation which has discovered the "Moabite Stone," the ruins of Troy + (Schliemann), and the key to the inscriptions of Etruria (Corssen), need + not despair of further progress. It has been well remarked that, whereas + the course of modern exploration has generally been maritime, the + ancients, whose means of navigation were less perfect, preferred + travelling by land. We are, doubtless, far better acquainted with the + outlines of the African coast, and the immediately maritime region, than + the Egyptians, the Greeks, the Romans, and the Arabs. But it is still + doubtful whether their information respecting the interior did not surpass + ours. Eratosthenes, librarian of Alexandria (B. C. 276-196) expresses + correct notions concerning the upper course of the Nile; Marinus of Tyre<a + href="#linknote-13" name="linknoteref-13" id="linknoteref-13"><small>13</small></a> + had the advantage of borrowing from the pilot, Diogenes, who visited the + Nile reservoirs of central inter-tropical Africa, and Ptolemy has been + justified in certain important points by our latest explorations. + </p> + <p> + No trace of the Nzadi or Congo is to be found in the Pelusian geographer, + whose furthest point is further north. In the "Tabula Rotunda Rogeriana" + of A. D. 1154 (Lelewel, No. X.) two lakes are placed upon the equator, and + the north-western discharges to the Atlantic the river Kauga or Kanga, + which the learned Mr. Hogg suspected to be the Congo. Marino Sanudo + (1321), who has an idea of Guinea (Ganuya) and of Zanzibar (Zinziber), + here bends Africa to the south-east, and inscribes, "Regio inhabitabilis + propter calorem." Fra Mauro (1457) reduces "Ethiopia Occidentalis et + Australis" to the minimum, and sheds the stream into the F. Xebe (Webbe or + Galla-Somal River). Martin von Behaim of Nürnberg (1492) in whose day + Africa began to assume her present form, makes the Rio de Padron drain the + western face of the Montes Lunae. Diogo Ribera, chief pilot of the Indies + under Charles V. (Seville, 1529) further corrects the shape of the + continent, and places the R. do Padrão north, and the Rio dos Boms Sinhaes + (Zambeze) south of the Montes Lunae. Mercator and Henry Hondt (1623) make + the Zaire Lacus the northern part of the Zembre Lacus. John Senex (circ. + 1712) shows the "R. Coango," the later Quango, believed to be the great + south-western fork of the Congo. It is not a little peculiar that the last + of the classics, Claudius Claudianus, an Alexandrian Christian withal, + describes the Gir, or Girrhaeus, with peculiarly Congoese features. In "De + laud. Stilicho." (lib. i. 252) we have— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Gir, notissimus amnis + Æthiopum, simili mentitus gurgite Nilum." +</pre> + <p> + And again ("Eidyll. in Nilum," 20): + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Hunc bibit infrenis Garamas, domitorque ferarum + Girrhæus, qui vasta colit sub rupibus antra, + Qui ramos ebeni, qui denies vellit eburnos." +</pre> + <p> + Here we find a Wady or torrent discharging into the Mediterranean, made + equal to "Egypt's heaven-descended stream;" caused to flow under great + rocks, as the Niger was long believed to pass underground to the Nile, of + which it was a western branch; and said to supply ebony, which is the + characteristic not even of the Niger regions, but of the Zaire.<a + href="#linknote-14" name="linknoteref-14" id="linknoteref-14"><small>14</small></a> + A little of this peculiar and precious commodity is produced by Old + Calabar, east of the Nigerian delta, and southwards it becomes common. + </p> + <p> + Pliny (v. i) places his Gir (which some editions read "Niger") "some + distance" beyond the snowy Atlas. Ptolemy (iv. 6) tells us "in + Mediterraneâ verò fluunt amnes maximi, nempe Gir conjungens Usargalam + montem et vallem Garamanticam, à quo divertens amnis continet secundum + situm (east longitude) 42° (north latitude)— 16°." Again: "Et Nigir + fluvius jungens et ipse Mandrum" (Mandara, south of Lake Chad?) "et Thala + montes" (the range near the western coast on the parallel of Cabo + Blanco?). "Facit autem et hic Nigritem Paludem" (Lake Dibbie or Debu, + north-east of Sego and Sansanding?) cujus situs 15°-18°." + </p> + <p> + Here the Gir, Ger, Gar, or Geir is clearly laid down as a Mediterranean + stream, whilst "Niger" gave rise to the confusion of the Senegal with the + true Niger. The name has greatly exercised commentators' ingenuity. + D'Anville believes the Niger and the Gir to end in the same quarter of + Africa, and the latter to be entirely unknown. Gosselin, agreeing with + Pliny, whose Ger is the Nigir of the Greeks, places them south of the + Atlas. Mr. Leake (loc. cit.) holds all conjecture useless. Not so the Rev. + M. Tristram, whose geography is of the ornithological or bird's- eye + order. In "The Great Sahara" (pp. 362-4, Appendix I.), he asks, "May not + the name Giris or Gir be connected with Djidi?" i. e. the Wadi Mzi, a mean + sink in El Areg, south of Algeria. Gräberg ("Morocco") had already + identified it with the Ghir, which flows through Sagelmessa; Burckhardt + with the Jir, "a large stream coming from about north latitude 10°, and + flowing north- west through the Wadaí, west of the borders of Dar-Fur." No + wonder that some geographers are disposed to believe Gir, Giris, Ger, and + Geir to be "a general native name for a river, like Bá" (Bahr), "Bi" (in + many Central African tongues a river, Schweinfurth, ii. 241), "Quorra + (Kwara), Gulbi and Gambaru (the Yeou), Shadda, and Enzaddi." + </p> + <p> + It is still interesting to consider the circumstances which gave rise to + Captain Tuckey's disastrous expedition. As any map of Africa during the + early quarter of the present century, Bowdich or Dupuis for instance, may + prove, the course of the Niger was laid down, now according to the + ancients, then after Arab information. The Dark Continent, of which + D'Anville justly said that writers abused, "pour ainsi dire, de la vaste + carrière que l'intérieur y laissait prendre" ("Mém. de l'Acad. des + Inscriptions," xxvi. 61), had not been subjected to scientific analysis; + this was reserved for the Presidential Address to the Royal Geographical + Society by the late Sir R. I. Murchison, 1852. Geographers did not see how + to pass the Niger through the" Kong Mountains, which, uniting with the + Jebel Komri, are supposed to run in one unbroken chain across the + continent;" and these Lunar Mountains of the Moslems, which were + "stretched like a chaplet of beads from east to west," undoubtedly + express, as M. du Chaillu contends, a real feature, the double versant, + probably a mere wave of ground between the great hydrographic basins of + the Niger and the Congo, of North Africa and of Central Africa. Men still + wasted their vigour upon the Nigritis Palus, the Chelonídes waters, the + Mount Caphas, and the lakes of Wangara, variously written Vancara and + Vongara, not to mention other ways. Maps place "Wangara"to the north-west + of Dahome, where the natives utterly ignore the name. Dupuis ("Ashantee," + 1824) suggests that, like "Takrúr," it is an obsolete Moslem term for the + 660 miles of maritime region between Cape Lahu and the Rio Formoso or the + Old Calabar River. This would include the three despotisms, Ashanti, + Dahome, and Benin, with the tribes who, from a distance of twenty-five + days, bring gold to Tinbuktu (the Tungubutu of De Barros, i. 220). Thus + the lakes of Wangara would be the lagoons of the Slave-coast, in which the + Niger may truly be said to lose itself. + </p> + <p> + At length M. Reichard, of Lobenstein ("Ephémerides Géographiques," Weimar, + 1802), theoretically discovered the mouth of the Niger, by throwing it + into the Bight of Benin. He was right in essentials and wrong in details; + for instance, he supposed the Rio Formoso or Benin River and the Rio del + Rey to join in one great stream beyond the flat alluvial delta: whereas + the former is indirectly connected through the Wari with the Niger, and + the latter has no connection with it at all. The truth was received with + scant courtesy, and the hypothesis was pronounced to be "worthy of very + little attention." There were, however, honourable exceptions. In 1813, + the learned Malte-Brun ("Précis de la Géographie Universelle," vol. iv. + 635) sanctioned the theory hinted at by Mungo Park, and in 1828 the + well-abused Caillié, a Frenchman who had dared to excel Bruce and Mungo + Park, wrote these remarkable words: "If I may be permitted to hazard an + opinion as to the course of the River Dhioliba, I should say that it + empties itself by several mouths into the Bight of Benin." In 1829, + fortified by Clapperton's opinion, my late friend, James Macqueen, who to + immense industry added many qualifications of a comparative geographer, + recommended a careful examination of the estuaries between the Rio Formoso + and Old Calabar. The question was not finally set at rest till 1830 + (November 15th), when Richard and John Lander entered Yoruba viâ Badagry + and, triumphantly descending the lower Niger, made the sea by the "Nun" + and Brass embouchures. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, Mr. George Maxwell, a Scotchman who had long traded in the + Congo, and who subsequently published a chart of the lower river proposed, + at the end of the last century, to take from England six supernumerary + boats for rowing and sailing, which could be carried by thirty people and + portaged round the cataracts. This gave rise to Captain Tuckey's first + error, depending upon labour and provisions, which were not to be had "for + love or money" anywhere on the Congo above the Yellala. With thirty or + forty black rowers, probably Cabinda men, Maxwell advised navigating the + river about May, when the Cacimbo or dry season begins; and with arms, + provisions, and merchandize he expected to reach the sources in six weeks. + The scheme, which was rendered abortive by the continental war of 1793, + had two remarkable results. It caused Mungo Park's fatal second journey, + and it led to the twin expeditions of Tuckey and Peddie. + </p> + <p> + In July, 1804, the ardent and irrepressible Scot wrote from Prior's Lynn, + near Longtown, to a friend, Mr. William Kier, of Milholm, that the river + "Enzaddi" was frequented by Portuguese, who found the stream still as + large as near the mouth, after ascending 600 miles. It is useful to + observe how these distances are obtained. The slave-touters for the + Liverpool and other dealers used, we are told, to march one month up + country, and take two to return. Thirty days multiplied by twenty miles + per diem give 600 miles. I need hardly point out that upon such a mission + the buyer would be much more likely to travel 60 miles than 600 in a + single month, and I believe that the natives of the lower river never went + beyond Nsundi, or 215 indirect miles from Point Padrão. + </p> + <p> + With truly national tenacity and plausibility Perfervidum Ingenium + contended that the Congo or Zaire was the Nigerian debouchure. Major + Rennell, who had disproved the connection of the Niger and the Egyptian + Nile by Bruce's barometric measurements on the course of the mountain-girt + Bahr el Azrak, and by Brown's altitudes at Darfur, condemned the bold + theory for the best of reasons. + </p> + <p> + Mungo Park, after a brief coldness and coquetting with it, hotly adopted + to the fullest extent the wild scheme. Before leaving England (Oct. 4, + 1804), he addressed a memoir to Lord Camden, explaining the causes of his + conversion. It is curious to note his confusion of "Zad," his belief that + the "Congo waters are at all seasons thick and muddy," and his conviction + that "the annual flood," which he considered perpetual, "commences before + the rains fall south of the equator." The latter is to a certain extent + true; the real reason will presently be given. Infected by the enthusiasm + of his brother Scot, he adds, "Considered in a commercial point of view, + it is second only to the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope; and, in a + geographical point of view, it is certainly the greatest discovery that + remains to be made in this world." + </p> + <p> + Thereupon the traveller set out for the upper Niger with the conviction + that he would emerge by the Congo, and return to England viâ the West + Indies. From the fragments of his Journal, and his letters to Lord Camden, + to Sir Joseph Banks, and to his wife, it is evident that at San-sanding he + had modified his theories, and that he was gradually learning the truth. + To the former he writes, "I am more and more inclined to think that it + (the Niger) can end nowhere but in the sea;" and presently a guide, who + had won his confidence, assured him that the river, after passing Kashna, + runs directly to the right hand, or south, which would throw it into the + Gulf of Guinea. + </p> + <p> + The fatal termination of Park's career in 1805 lulled public curiosity for + a time, but it presently revived. The geographical mind was still excited + by the mysterious stream which evaporation or dispersion drained into the + Lake-swamps of Wangara, and to this was added not a little curiosity + concerning the lamented and popular explorer's fate. We find instructions + concerning Mungo Park issued even to cruizers collecting political and + other information upon the East African coast; e.g., to Captain Smee, sent + in 1811 by the Bombay Government. His companion, Lieutenant Hardy, + converted Usagára, west of the Zanzibar seaboard, into "Wangarah," and + remarks, "a white man, supposed to be Park, is said to have travelled here + twenty years ago" ("Observations," &c.). + </p> + <p> + About ten years after Mungo Park's death, two expeditions were fitted out + by Government to follow up his discovery. Major Peddie proceeded to + descend the Niger, and Captain Tuckey to ascend the Congo. We have nothing + to say of the former journey except that, as in the latter, every chief + European officer died—Major Peddie, Captain Campbell, Lieutenant + Stokoe, and M. Kummer, the naturalist. The expedition, consisting of 100 + men and 200 animals, reached Kakundy June 13, 1817, and there fell to + pieces. Concerning the Zaire Expedition, which left Deptford on February + 16, 1816, a few words are advisable. + </p> + <p> + The personnel was left to the choice of the leader, Commander J. K. + Tuckey, R. N. (died). There were six commissioned officers— + Lieutenant John Hawkey, R.N. (died); Mr. Lewis Fitz-maurice, master and + surveyor; Mr. Robert Hodder and Mr. Robert Beecraft, master's mates; Mr. + John Eyre, purser (died); and Mr. James McKerrow, assistant surgeon. Under + these were eight petty officers, four carpenters, two blacksmiths, and + fourteen able seamen. The marines numbered one sergeant, one corporal, and + twelve privates. Grand total of combatants, forty-nine. To these were + added five "savants": Professor Chetien Smith, a Norwegian botanist and + geologist (died); Mr. Cranch, collector of objects of natural history + (died); Mr. Tudor, comparative anatomist (died); Mr. Galway, Irishman and + volunteer naturalist (died); and "Lockhart, a gardener" (of His Majesty's + Gardens, Kew). There were two Congo negroes, Benjamin Benjamins and Somme + Simmons; the latter, engaged as a cook's mate, proved to be a "prince of + the blood," which did not prevent his deserting for fear of the bushmen. + </p> + <p> + The allusions made to Mr. Cranch, a "joined methodist," and a "self-made + man," are not complimentary. "Cranch, I fear," says Professor Smith, "by + his absurd conduct, will diminish the liberality of the captain towards + us: he is like a pointed arrow to the company." And, again, "Poor Cranch + is almost too much the object of jest; Galway is the principal + banterer."In the Professor's remarks on the" fat purser,"we can detect the + foreigner, who, on such occasions, should never be mixed up with + Englishmen. + </p> + <p> + Sir Joseph Banks had suggested a steamer drawing four feet, with + twenty-four horse-power; an admirable idea, but practical difficulties of + construction rendered the "Congo" useless. Of the fifty-four white men, + eighteen, including eleven of the "Congo" crew, died in less than three + months. Fourteen out of a party of thirty officers and men, who set out to + explore the cataracts viâ the northern bank, lost their lives; and they + were followed by four more on board the "Congo," and one at Bahia. The + expedition remained in the river between July 6th and October 18th, little + more than three months; yet twenty-one, or nearly one-third, three of the + superior officers and all the scientific men, perished. Captain Tuckey + died of fatigue and exhaustion (Oct. 4th) rather than of disease; + Lieutenant Hawkey, of fatal typhus (which during 1862 followed the yellow + fever, in the Bonny and New Calabar Rivers); and Mr. Eyre, palpably of + bilious remittent. Professor Smith had been so charmed with the river, + that he was with difficulty persuaded to return. Prostrated four days + afterwards by sickness on board the transport, he refused physic and food, + because his stomach rejected bark, and, preferring cold water, he became + delirious; apparently, he died of disappointment, popularly called a + "broken heart." Messrs. Tudor and Cranchalso fell victims to bilious + remittents, complicated, in the case of the latter, by the "gloomy view + taken of Christianity by that sect denominated Methodists." Mr. Galway, on + September 28th, visited Sangala, the highest rapid ("Narrative," p. 328). + In the Introduction, p. 80, we are wrongly told that he went to Banza + Ninga, whence, being taken ill on August 24th, he was sent down stream. + He, like his commander, had to sleep in the open, almost without food, and + he also succumbed to fever, fatigue, and exhaustion. + </p> + <p> + The cause of this prodigious mortality appears in the records of the + expedition. Officers and men were all raw, unseasoned, and unacclimatized. + Captain Tuckey, an able navigator, the author of "Maritime Geography and + Statistics," had served in the tropics; his biographer, however, writes + that a long imprisonment in France and "residence in India had broken down + his constitution, and at the age of thirty (ob. æt. thirty-nine) his hair + was grey and his head nearly bald." The men perished, exactly like the + missionaries of old, by hard work, insufficient and innutritious food, + physical exhaustion, and by the doctor. At first "immediate bleeding and + gentle cathartics" are found to be panaceas for mild fevers (p. 46): + presently the surgeon makes a discovery as follows: "With regard to the + treatment I shall here only observe that bleeding was particularly + unsuccessful. Cathartics were of the greatest utility, and calomel, so + administered as speedily to induce copious salivation, generally procured + a remission of all the violent symptoms." The phlebotomy was inherited + from the missioners, who own almost to have blinded themselves by it. When + one was "blooded" fifteen times and died, his amateur Sangrado said, "It + had been better to have bled him thirty times:" the theory was that in so + hot a climate all the European blood should be replaced by African. One of + the entries in Captain Tuckey's diary is, "Awaking extremely unwell, I + directly swallowed five grains of calomel"—a man worn out by work + and sleeping in the open air! The "Congo" sloop was moored in a reach + surrounded by hills, instead of being anchored in mid stream where the + current of water creates a current of air; those left behind in her died + of palm wine, of visits from native women, and of exposure to the sun by + day and to the nightly dews. On the line of march the unfortunate marines + wore pigtails and cocked hats; stocks and cross-belts; tight-fitting, + short-waisted red coats, and knee- breeches with boots or spatter-dashes—even + the stout Lord Clyde in his latest days used to recall the miseries of his + march to Margate, and declare that the horrid dress gave him more pain + than anything he afterwards endured in a life-time of marching. None + seemed capable of calculating what amount of fatigue and privation the + European system is able to support in the tropics. And thus they perished, + sometimes of violent bilious remittents, more often of utter weariness and + starvation. Peace to their manes!—they did their best, and "angels + can no more." They played for high stakes, existence against fame— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "But the fair guerdon when we hope to find, + Comes the blind Fury with th' abhorred shears, + And slits the thin-spun life." +</pre> + <p> + "The Narrative of an Expedition to Explore the River Zaire" (London, John + Murray, 1818), published by permission of the Lords Commissioners of the + Admiralty, was necessarily a posthumous work. The Introduction of + eighty-two pages and the General Observations (fifty-three pages) are by + anonymous hands; follow Captain Tuckey's Narrative, Professor Smith's + Journal, and an Appendix with seven items; 1, vocabularies of the Malemba + and Embomma (Fiote or Congo) languages; 2, 3, and 4, Zoology; 5, Botany; + 6, Geology; and 7, Hydrography. The most valuable is No. 5, an admirable + paper entitled "Observations, Systematical and Geographical, on Professor + Christian Smith's Collection of Plants from the Vicinity of the River + Congo, by Robert Brown, F.R.S." The "Geology," by Mr. Charles Konig, of + the British Museum, is based upon very scanty materials. The folio must + not be severely criticized; had the writers lived, they might have worked + up their unfinished logs into interesting and instructive matter. But + evidently they had not prepared themselves for the work; no one knew the + periods of rain at the equator; there was no linguist to avoid mistakes in + the vocabulary; moreover, Professor Smith's notes, being kept in small and + ill-formed Danish characters, caused such misprints as "poppies" for + papaws. Some few of the mistakes should be noticed for the benefit of + students. The expedition appears to have confused São Salvador, the + capital, with St. Antonio placed seven days from the river mouth (p. 277). + It calls Santo Antão (Cape Verds) "San Antonio;" the Ilha das Rôlas (of + turtle doves) Rolle's Island; "morfil" bristles of the elephant's tail, + and manafili ivory, both being from the Portuguese marfim; moudela for + mondele or mondelle, a white man; malava, "presents," for mulavu (s. s. as + msámbá, not maluvi, Douville), palm wine, which in the form mulavu m'putu + (Portuguese) applies to wine and spirits. We have also "Leimba" for Lyámba + or Dyámba (Cannabis saliva); "Macasso, a nut chewed by great people only," + for Makazo, the bean of the Kola (Sterculia); "Hyphæa" and "Dom" for + Palmyra Flabelliformis, whose "fruit hangs down in bunched clusters;" + "Raphia" for Raphia Vinifera, commonly called the bamboo or wine palm, and + "casa," a purgative legumen, for nkasa, "sass," or poison wood, identified + with the red-water tree of Sierra Leone, the erythropheum of Professor + Afzelius, of the order Cæalpineae, which gave a name to the Brazil. + </p> + <p> + The next important visit to the Congo River was paid by Captain Owen's + Expedition, when homeward bound in 1826. The "Leven" and "Barracouta" + surveyed the stream twenty-five miles from its mouth during a week, + beginning with January 1, just after the highest flood. At thirteen miles + out at sea the water was fresh and of a dingy red; it fermented and + remained in a highly putrescent state for some days, tarnishing silver; + kept for four months, it became perfectly clear and colourless, without + depositing any sediment. This reminds us of the changing colours, green, + red and milky white, to which the Nile and all great African rivers that + flood periodically are subject.<a href="#linknote-15" name="linknoteref-15" + id="linknoteref-15"><small>15</small></a> + </p> + <p> + The next traveller that deserves notice is the unfortunate Douville,<a + href="#linknote-16" name="linknoteref-16" id="linknoteref-16"><small>16</small></a> + through whose tissue of imposture runs a golden thread of truth. As his + first journey, occupying nearly two of the three volumes, was probably + confined to the Valley of the Cuanza River, so his second, extending + beyond the equator, and to a meridian 25° east of Paris, becomes fable as + he leaves the course of the Loge Stream. Yet, although he begins by + doubting that the Coango and the Zaire are the same waters, he ends by + recognizing the fact, and his map justly lays down the Fleuve Couango dit + Zaire à son embouchure. Whether the tale of the mulatto surveyor be fact + or not is of little matter: the adventurer had an evident inkling of the + truth. + </p> + <p> + A flood of side light is thrown upon the head waters of the Congo River by + Dr. Livingstone's first memorable journey (1852-56), across Africa, and by + the more dubious notices of his third expedition The Introduction (p. + xviii.) to Captain Tuckey's narrative had concluded from the fact of the + highest flood being in March, and the lowest level about the end of + August, that at least one branch of the river must pass through some + portion of the northern hemisphere. The general observations affixed to + "Narrative" (p. 346), contain these words: "If the rise of the Zaire had + proceeded from rains to the southward of the Line, swelling the tributary + streams and pouring in mountain torrents the waters into the main channel, + the rise would have been sudden and impetuous." Of course the writer had + recourse to the "Lakes of Wangara," in north latitude 12° to 15°: that + solution of the difficulty belonged inevitably to his day. Captain Tuckey + (p. 178) learned, at Mavunda, that ten days of canoeing would take him + beyond all the rapids to a large sandy islet which makes two channels, one + to the north-west, the other to the north-east. In the latter there is a + fall above which canoes are procurable: twenty days higher up the river + issues, by many small streams, from a great marsh or lake of mud.<a + href="#linknote-17" name="linknoteref-17" id="linknoteref-17"><small>17</small></a> + Again, a private letter written from the "Yellala" (p. 343) declares that + "the Zaire would be found to issue from a lake or a chain of lakes + considerably to the north of the Line; and, so far from the low state of + the river in July and August militating against the hypothesis, it gives + additional weight, provided the river swell in early September"—which + it did. In his "Journal" (p. 224), we find a memorandum, written as it + were with a dying hand, "Hypothesis confirmed. The water..." + </p> + <p> + On February 24, 1854, Dr. Livingstone, after leaving what he calls the + "Dilolo Lake," found on an almost level plain, some 4,000 to 5,000 feet + high and then flooded after rains, a great water parting between the + eastern and the western continental shores. I have carefully considered + the strictures upon this subject by the author of "Dr. Livingstone's + Errors" (p. 101), and have come to the conclusion that the explorer was + too experienced to make the mistakes attributed to him by the cabinet + geographer. The translation "despair" for "bitterness" (of the fish?) and + the reference to Noah's Deluge may be little touches ad captandum; but the + Kibundo or Angolan tongue certainly has a dental though it lacks a + cerebral d. + </p> + <p> + The easterly flow was here represented by the Leeba or upper course of the + "Leeambye," the "Diambege of Ladislaus Magyar, that great northern and + north-western course of the Zambeze across which older geographers had + thrown a dam of lofty mountains, where the Mosi-wa-tunya cataract was + afterwards discovered. The opposite versant flowing to the north was the + Kasai or Kasye (Livingstone), the Casais of the Pombeiros, the Casati of + Douville, the Casasi and Casézi of M. Cooley (who derives it from Casezi, + a priest, the corrupted Arabic Kissis ); the Kassabi (Casabi) of Beke, the + Cassaby of Monteiro and Gamitto (p. 494), and the Kassaby or Cassay of + Valdez. Its head water is afterwards called by the explorer Lomame and + Loke, possibly for Lu-oke, because it drains the highlands of Mossamba and + the district of Ji-oke, also called Ki-oke, Kiboke, and by the Portuguese + "Quiboque." The stream is described as being one hundred yards broad, + running through a deep green glen like the Clyde. The people attested its + length by asserting, in true African style, "If you sail along it for + months, you will turn without seeing the end of it:" European geographers + apparently will not understand that this declaration shows only the + ignorance of the natives concerning everything a few miles beyond their + homes. The explorer (February 27,1854) places the ford in south latitude + 11° 15' 47", and his map shows east longitude (G.), 21° 40' 30", about 7° + 30' (=450 direct geographical miles) from Novo Redondo on the Western + Coast. He dots its rise in the "Balobale country," south latitude 12° to + 13°, and east longitude 19° to 20°. Pursuing his course, Dr. Livingstone + (March 30) first sighted the Quango (Coango) as it emerged from the dark + jungles of Londa, a giant Clyde, some 350 yards broad, flowing down an + enormous valley of denudation. He reached it on April, 1854, in south + latitude 9° 53', and east longitude (G.) 18° 37', about 300 geographical + linear miles from the Atlantic. Three days to the west lies the + easternmost station of Angola, Cassange: no Portuguese lives, or rather + then lived, beyond the Coango Valley. The settlers informed him that eight + days' or about 100 miles' march south of this position, the sources are to + be found in the "Mosamba Range" of the Basongo country; this would place + them in about south latitude 12° to 13° and east longitude (G.) 18° to + 19°. + </p> + <p> + The heights are also called in Benguela Nanos, Nannos, or Nhanos + (highlands);<a href="#linknote-18" name="linknoteref-18" + id="linknoteref-18"><small>18</small></a> and in our latest maps they are + made to discharge from their seaward face the Coango and Cuanza to the + west and north, the Kasai to the north-east and possibly to the Congo, the + Cunene south-westwards to the Atlantic, and southwards the Kubango, whose + destination is still doubtful. Dr. Charles Beke ("Athenæum," No. 2206, + February 5, 1870), judged from various considerations that the "Kassábi" + rising in the primeval forests of Olo-vihenda, was the "great + hydrophylacium of the continent of Africa, the central point of division + between the waters flowing to the Mediterranean, to the Atlantic, and to + the Indian Ocean"—in fact, the head-water of the Nile. I believe, + however, that our subsequent information made my late friend abandon this + theory. + </p> + <p> + On his return march to Linyanti, Dr. Livingstone, who was no longer + incapacitated by sickness and fatigue, perceived that all the western + feeders of the "Kasa" flow first from the western side towards the centre + of the continent, then gradually turn with the main stream itself to the + north, and "after the confluence of the Kasai with the Quango, an immense + body of water collected from all these branches, finds its way out of the + country by means of the River Congo or Zaire, on the Western Coast" (chap. + xxii.). He adds: "There is but one opinion among the Balonda respecting + the Kasai and the Quango. They invariably describe the Kasai as receiving + the Quango, and beyond the confluence assuming the name of Zairé or + Zerézeré. And thus he verifies the tradition of the Portuguese, who always + speak of the Casais and the Coango as "suppôsto Congo." It is regrettable + that Dr. Livingstone has not been more explicit upon the native names. The + Balonda could hardly have heard of the semi-European term Zaire, which is + utterly unknown even at the Yellalas. On the other hand, it must be borne + in mind that Maxwell was informed by native travellers that the river 600 + miles up country was still called "Enzaddi," and perhaps the explorer + merely intends Zairé to explain Zerézeré. It is hardly necessary to notice + Douville's assertion (ii. 372). + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile the late Ladislaus Magyar, who had previously informed the + Benguelan Government that the Casais was reported to fall into the Indian + Ocean at some unknown place, in 1851 followed this great artery lower than + any known traveller. He heard that, beyond his furthest exploration point + (about south latitude 6° 30,<a href="#linknote-19" name="linknoteref-19" + id="linknoteref-19"><small>19</small></a> and east longitude, G. 22°), it + pursues a north- easterly direction and, widening several miles, it raises + waves which are dangerous to canoes. The waters continue to be sweet and + fall into a lake variously called Mouro or Moura (Moráve or Marávi?), + Uhanja or Uhenje (Nyanza?), which is suspected to be the Urenge or Ulenge, + of which Livingstone heard in about south latitude 3°, and east longitude + (G.) 26°. The Hungarian traveller naturally identified it with the + mythical Lake Nyassa which has done such portentous mischief in a day now + gone by. Ladislaus Magyar also states:<a href="#linknote-20" + name="linknoteref-20" id="linknoteref-20"><small>20</small></a> "The Congo + rises, I have convinced myself by reports, in the swamp named Inhan-ha + occupying the high plateau of Moluwa, in the lands of the Luba, uniting + with the many streams of this region; at a distance of about five days + from the source it becomes a deep though narrow river, which flows to the + westward, through a level country covered with dense forests, whose + frequent streams coming from the north (?) and south are taken up "by the + river; then it bends north-westward under the name of Kuango." Here we + find the drowned lands, the "sponges" of Livingstone, who, however, placed + the sources much further to the south-east. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Livingstone's third and last expedition, which began on March 24, + 1866, and which ended (1873) with fatal fitness in the swamps of the + Bangweolo, suggests a new and more distant derivation for the mighty + Congo. After travelling from the Rovuma River to Lake Nyassa, the great + explorer in l867-8 came upon an "earthern mound," west of Lake Bangweolo + or Bemba, in about south latitude 11°; and here he places the sources of + the Nile, where geographers have agreed provisionally to place the sources + of the Congo. Already, in 1518, Fernandez de Enciso (Suma de Geographia), + the "theoretical discoverer" of Kilimanjaro, was told by the Congoese that + their river rises in high mountains, from which another great stream flows + in an opposite direction— but this might apply to more watersheds + than one. The subject is treated at considerable length in an article by + Dr. E. Behm,<a href="#linknote-21" name="linknoteref-21" + id="linknoteref-21"><small>21</small></a> certain of whose remarks I shall + notice at the end of this chapter. + </p> + <p> + The article proves hypsometrically that the Lualaba, in which the explorer + found the head waters of the Egyptian river, cannot feed the Tanganyika + nor the Lake Nzige (N'zíghe, Mwutan, Chowambe, or Albert Nyanza Lake), nor + even the Bahr el Ghazal, as was once suspected. From the latter, indeed, + it is barred by the water parting of the Welle, the "Babura" of Jules + Poncet (1860), in the land of the Monbuttú; whose system the later + explorer, Dr. Schweinfurth, is disposed to connect with the Shari. + Hydrometrically considered, the Lualaba, which at Nyangwe, the most + northerly point explored by Dr. Livingstone (1870), rolls a flood of + 124,000 cubic feet per second in the dry season, cannot be connected + either with the Welle (5,100 cubic feet), nor with the Bahr el Ghazal + (3,042 to 6,500 cubic feet), nor with the Nile below the mouth of the Bahr + el Ghazal (11,330); nor with the Shari (67,500); nor with the shallow + Ogobe, through its main forks the Rembo Okanda and the Rembo Nguye. + </p> + <p> + But the Lualaba may issue through the Congo. The former is made one of the + four streams ferried over by those travelling from the Cazembe to the + Mwata ya Nvo, and Dr. de Lacarda<a href="#linknote-22" + name="linknoteref-22" id="linknoteref-22"><small>22</small></a> records it + as the "Guarava," probably a dialectic form of Lualava. It is the Luapula + of the "Geographer of N'yassi," who, with his usual felicity and boldness + of conjecture (p. 38), bends it eastward, and discharges it into his + mythical Central Sea. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Behm greatly under-estimates the Congo when he assigns to it only + 1,800,000 cubic feet per second. He makes the great artery begin to rise + in November instead of September and decrease in April, without noticing + the March-June freshets, reported by all the natives to measure about + one-third of the autumnal floods. His elements are taken from Tuckey, who + found off the "Diamond Rock" a velocity of 3.50 knots an hour, and from + Vidal's Chart, showing 9,000 English feet or 1.50 nautical miles in a + Thalweg fifty fathoms deep. Thus he assumes only two nautical miles for + the current, or sixty inches per second, which must be considerably + increased, and an average depth of ten fathoms, which again is too little. + For 1,800,000 cubic feet of water per second, which Tuckey made 2,000,000, + we may safely read 2,500,000. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Livingstone himself was haunted by the idea that he was exploring the + Upper Congo, not the Nile. From a Portuguese subordinate he "learned that + the Luapula went to Angola." He asks with some truth, "Who would care to + risk being put into a cannibal pot, and be converted into blackman for + anything less than the grand old Nile?" And the late Sir Roderick I. + Murchison, whose geographical forecasts were sometimes remarkable, + suspected long ago<a href="#linknote-23" name="linknoteref-23" + id="linknoteref-23"><small>23</small></a> that his "illustrious friend" + would follow the drainage of the country to the western coast. + </p> + <p> + The "extraordinary quiet rise of the periodical flood," proved by the + first expedition, argues that the Congo "issues from the gradual + overflowing of a lake or a chain of lakes." The increment in the lower + bed, only eight to twelve feet where the Nile and the Ganges rise thirty + and the Binuwe fifty, would also suggest that it is provided with many + large reservoirs. The Introduction to Tuckey's "Narrative" (p. xviii.) + assumes that the highest water is in March, but he entered the stream only + on July 6, and the expedition ended in mid-October. The best informants + assured me that from March till June there are heavy freshets. As in the + Ogobe, the flood begins in early September, somewhat preceding that of the + Lualaba, but, unlike the former stream, it attains its highest in November + and December, and it gradually subsides from the end of June till August, + about which time the water is lowest. + </p> + <p> + In the middle region of the Tanganyika, I found the rainy season lasting + from September to May. At Lake Liemba, the south-eastern projection of the + Tanganyika, Dr. Livingstone in 1867 saw no rain from May 12 to September, + and in Many-wema-land, west of the central Tanganyika, about south + latitude 5°, the wet season began in November, and continued till July + with intervals, marking the passage of the belt of calms. But, for the + Congo to rise in September, we must assume the rains to have fallen in + early August, allowing ten or fifteen days for the streams to descend, and + the rest for the saturation of the land. This postulates a supply from the + Central African regions far north of the equator. Even for the March-June + freshets, we must also undoubtedly go north of the Line, yet Herr H. + Kiepert<a href="#linknote-24" name="linknoteref-24" id="linknoteref-24"><small>24</small></a> + places the northernmost influent of Congo some 150 miles south of the + equator. Under these limitations I agree with Dr. Behm:—"Taking + everything into consideration, in the present state of our knowledge, + there is the strongest probability that the Lualaba is the head stream of + the Congo, and the absolute certainty that it has no connection with the + Nile or any other river (system) of the northern hemisphere." And again: + "As surely as the sun stands over the southern hemisphere in our winter + and the northern in our summer, bringing the rains and the swellings of + the tropical rivers when it is in the zenith with regard to them, so + surely can it be predicated, from a comparison of the rainy seasons and + times of rising, that the Lualaba belongs to no river of the northern + hemisphere; in the southern hemisphere Africa possesses only one river, + the Congo, which could take up the vast water supply of the Lualaba." The + Brazil shows the curious feature of widely different and even opposite + rainy seasons in the same parallel of latitude; but this is not the place + to discuss the subject. + </p> + <p> + Since these lines were written, I have to lament the collapse of the + Livingstone-Congo Expedition. In 1872 the great explorer's friends, taking + into consideration the prospect of his turning westward, organized a + "relief" from West as well as from East Africa. Mr. J. Young, of Kelly, + generously supplied the sinews of travel, and Mr. Clements R. Markham, + Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, lent important aid in + preparing the exploration. Navigating-Lieutenant W. J. Grandy, who had + seen service on the eastern coast of Africa, landed at S. Paulo de Loanda + in early 1873, and set out from Ambriz in March of that year. The usual + difficulties were met and overcome, when Lieutenant Grandy was summarily + recalled. The official explanation ("Royal Geographical Society," December + 14th, 1874), is that the measure was in consequence of Livingstone's + death. The traveller himself says:—"Complying with instructions, we, + with many regrets at the idea of leaving our work unfinished when all + seemed so full of promise, commenced preparations for the return, leaving + good presents with the chiefs, in order to procure a good reception for + those who might come after us." An Ex-President of the Royal Geographical + Society had asserted, "The ascent of the (Upper) Congo ought to be more + productive of useful geographical results than any other branch of African + exploration, as it will bring to the test of experiment the navigability + of the Congo above the Falls, and thus possibly open out a means of + introducing traffic by steam into the heart of the continent at least two + thousand miles from the mouth of the river." + </p> + <p> + With this explicit and stimulating assertion before us, we must lament + that England, once the worthy rival in exploration of Spain, Portugal, and + the Netherlands, is now too poor to support a single exploration on the + West African Coast, when Germany is wealthy enough liberally to subsidize + two. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Note. + + A nous deux, Dr. E. Behm! +</pre> + <p> + My objections to your paper are the three following: 1. It generally + understates the volume of the Nzadi, by not allowing sufficiently for the + double equinoctial periods of high water, March to June, as well as + September to December; and by ignoring the north-equatorial supply. 2. It + arbitrarily determines the question of the Tanganyika, separating it from + the Nile-system upon the insufficient strength of a gorilla, and of an + oil-palm which is specifically different from that of the Western Coast; + and 3. It wilfully misrepresents Dr. Livingstone in the matter of the + so-called Victoria Nyanza. + </p> + <p> + My first objection has been amply discussed. I therefore proceed to + consider the second. As Mr. Alexander G. Findlay observed ("Proceedings of + the Royal Geographical Society," No. 3, vol. xvii. of July 28, 1873):—"Up + to the time of Stanley's arrival at Ujiji, and his journey to the north of + the lake, Livingstone was fully impressed with the conviction that the + Tanganyika is nothing more than what he called a ‘lacustrine river' (329 + miles long by twenty of average breadth); flowing steadily to the north + and forming a portion of the Great Nile Basin. The letters contained his + reasons for forming that opinion, stating that he had been for weeks and + months on the shores of the lake watching the flow of the water + northwards" (at the rate of a knot per hour). At times the current + appeared to run southwards, but that was under the influence of strong + northerly winds. Also by Dr. Livingstone's letters to Sir Thomas Maclear + and Dr. Mann (" Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society,"No. i of + 1873, pp. 69-70), it is evident that the explorer believed only in the + lake outlet north of Ujiji. Again, Mr. Findlay, after attentively + considering the unsatisfactory visit of Dr. Livingstone and Mr. Stanley to + the Rusizi River in November and December, 1871, holds it to be a mere + marsh-drain, which when the south winds prevail, would possibly flow in + the opposite direction; and he still believes that Captain Speke and I, + when at Uvira, were within five or six miles of the head. + </p> + <p> + Since Dr. Livingstone's visit we have heard more upon this disputed + subject. A native of Karagwah assured my friend Sir Samuel Baker—who, + despite all prepossessions, candidly accepted the statement—that it + is possible and feasible to canoe from Chibero,on the so-called Albert + Nyanza, past Uvira, where the stream narrows and where a pilot is + required, to the Arab dépôt, Ujiji. He described the northern portion of + the Tanganyika as varying much in breadth, immensely wide beyond Vacovia, + and again contracting at Uvira. His report was confirmed by a Msawahíli, + sent by King Mtesa, with whom he had lived many years, to communicate with + Baker Pasha at Fatiko; this man knew both Uvira and Ujiji, which he called + "Uyiyi." Nothing can be more substantial than this double testimony, which + wears all the semblance of truth. + </p> + <p> + On the other hand, Lieut. Cameron, whose admirable work has, so to speak, + re-constructed the Tanganyika Lake, discovered, on the 3rd of May, 18-74, + the Lukuga River, which he supposes to form the outlet. It lies 25 direct + miles to the south of the Kasenge Archipelago, numbering seventeen isles, + visited by Captain Speke in March, 1857. Dr. Livingstone touched here on + July 13, 1869, and heard nothing of the outlet; he describes a current + sweeping round Kasenge to south-east or southwards according to the wind, + and carrying trees at the rate of a knot an hour. But Mr. Stanley (pp. 400 + et passim) agrees with Dr. Krapf, who made a large river issue from "the + lake" westwards, and who proposed, by following its course, to reach the + Atlantic. The "discoverer of Livingstone" evidently inclines to believe + that the Tanganyika drains through the caverns of Kabogo near Uguhha, and + he records the information of native travellers that "Kabogo is a great + mountain on the other side of the Tanganyika, full of deep holes, into + which the water rolls; "moreover, that at the distance of over a hundred + miles he himself heard the" sound of the thundering surf which is said to + roll into the caves of Kabogo."In his map he ‘cutely avoids inserting + anything beyond "Kabogo Mountains, 6,000 to 7,000 feet high." + </p> + <p> + The gallant young naval lieutenant's exploration of the Lukuga has not yet + reached us in a satisfactory form. He found the current sluggishly flowing + at the rate of 1.2 knots per hour; he followed it for four or five miles, + and he was stopped by floating grass and enormous rushes (papyri?). A + friendly chief told him that the Lukuga feeds the Lualaba which, beyond + Nyangwe (Livingstone's furthest point, in about south latitude 4°) takes + the name of Ugarowwa. An Arab had descended this stream fifty- five + marches, and reached a place where there were ships and white merchants + who traded largely in palm-oil and ivory, both rare on the Congo River. + And, unfortunately, "the name (River) Congo was also mentioned," a term + utterly unknown except to the few Portuguese-speaking natives. + </p> + <p> + At present, therefore, we must reserve judgment, and the only conclusion + to which the unprofessional reader would come is that the weight of + authority is in favour of a double issue for the Tanganyika, north and + west. + </p> + <p> + The wilful misrepresentation is couched in these words: "The reports + obtained by Livingstone are if anything favourable to the unity of the + Victoria Nyanza (Ukerewe, Ukara,) because along with it he names only such + lakes as were already known to have a separate existence from it." As + several were recognized, ergo it is one! Dr. Livingstone heard from + independent sources that the so-called Victoria Nyanza is a lake region, + not a lake; his account of the Okara (Ukara), and the three or four waters + run into a single huge sheet, is substantially the same as that which, + after a study of the Rev. Mr. Wakefield's Reports I offered to the Royal + Geographical Society, and which I subsequently published in "Zanzibar + City, Island, and Coast." You, Dr. Behm, are apparently satisfied with a + lake drained by an inverted delta of half-a-dozen issues—I am not. + Nor can I agree with you that "whether the Victoria Nyanza is one lake or + several is a point of detail of less importance," when it has disfigured + the best maps of Africa for nearly a score of years. The last intelligence + concerning the "unity" of the lake is from Colonel C. C. Long, a + staff-officer in the service of His Highness the Khedive, who was sent by + Colonel Gordon on a friendly mission to King Mtesa of Uganda. With + permission to descend "Murchison Creek," and to view "Lake Victoria + Nyanza," Colonel Long, after a march of three hours, took boat. He sounded + the waters of the lake, and found a depth of from 25 to 35 feet; in clear + weather the opposite shore was visible, appearing "to an unnautical eye" + from 12 to 15 miles distant; nor could this estimate be greatly wrong. + After much negotiation and opposition he obtained leave to return to + Egyptian territory by water, and on the way, in north latitude 1° 30', he + discovered a second lake or "large basin," at least 20 to 25 miles wide. + The geography is somewhat hazy, but the assertions are not to be mistaken. + </p> + <p> + Finally, I read with regret such statements as the following, made by so + well-known a geographer as yourself: "Speke's views have been splendidly + confirmed; the attacks of his opponents, especially of Burton, who was + most inimically inclined to him, collapse into nothing." This + unwarrantable style of assertion might be expected from the + "Mittheilungen," but it is not honourable to a man of science. There are, + you well know, three main points of difference between the late Captain + Speke and myself. The first is the horse-shoe of mountains blocking up the + northern end of the Tanganyika; this, after a dozen years, I succeeded in + abolishing. The second is the existence of the Victoria Nyanza, which I + assert to be a lake region, not a lake; it is far from being a "point of + detail," and I hope presently to see it follow the way of the horse-shoe. + Thirdly is the drainage of the Tanganyika, which Captain Speke threw + southward to the Zambeze, a theory now universally abandoned. This may be + your view of "splendid confirmation"—I venture to think that it will + not be accepted by the geographical world. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XI. — Life at Banza Nokki. + </h2> + <p> + I was now duly established with my books and instruments at Nkaye, and the + inevitable delay was employed in studying the country and the people, and + in making a botanical collection. But the season was wholly unpropitious. + A naval officer, who was considered an authority upon the Coast, had + advised me to travel in September, when a journey should never begin later + than May. The vegetation was feeling the effect of the Cacimbo; most of + the perennials were in seed, and the annuals were nearly dried up. The + pictorial effects were those of + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Autumn laying here and there + A fiery finger on the leaves." +</pre> + <p> + Yet, with Factotum Selim's assistance, I managed to collect some 490 + specimens within the fortnight. We had not the good fortune of the late + Dr. Welwitsch (Welwitschia mirabilis), but there is still a copious + treasure left for those who visit the Congo River in the right season. + </p> + <p> + I was delighted with the country, a counterpart of the Usumbara Hills in + Eastern Africa, disposed upon nearly the same parallel. The Cacimbo season + corresponded with the Harmattan north of the Line; still, grey mornings, + and covered, rainless noons, so distasteful to the Expedition, which + complained that, from four to five days together, it could not obtain an + altitude. The curious contrast in a region of evergreens was not wanting, + the varied tintage of winter on one tree, and upon another the brightest + hues of budding spring. The fair land of grass and flowers "rough but + beautiful," of shrubbery-path, and dense mottes or copse islets, with + clear fountains bubbling from the rocks, adorned by noble glimpses of the + lake-like river, and of a blue horizon, which suggested the ocean—ever + one of the most attractive points in an African landscape,—was + easily invested by the eye of fancy with gold and emerald and steely azure + from above, whilst the blue masses of bare mountain, thrown against a + cloudless sky, towered over the black-green sea of vegetation at their + base, like icebergs rising from the bosom of the Atlantic. + </p> + <p> + As in the Brazilian Rio de São Francisco, the few miles between the mouth + and the hill-region cause a radical change of climate. Here the suns are + never too hot, nor are the moons too cold; the nights fall soft and misty, + the mornings bring the blessing of freshness; and I was never weary of + enjoying the effects of dying and reviving day. The most delicate + sharpness and purity of outline took the place of meridian reek and blur; + trees, rocks, and chalets were picked out with an utter disregard to the + perspective of distance, and the lowest sounds were distinctly heard in + the hard, clear atmosphere. The damp and fetid vegetation of the Coast + wholly disappeared. By the benefit of purest air and water, with long + walks and abundant palm wine from the trees hung with calabashes, the + traces of "Nanny Po" soon vanished; appetite and sleep returned, nightly + cramps were things unknown, and a healthy glow overspread the clammy, + corpse-like skin. When the Lower Congo shall become the emporium of lawful + trade, the white face will find a sanatorium in these portals of the + Sierra del Crystal,—the vine will flourish, the soil will produce + the cereals as well as the fruits and vegetables of Europe, and this + region will become one of the "Paradises of Africa." + </p> + <p> + The banzas of Congo-land show the constitution of native society, which, + as in Syria, and indeed in most barbarous and semi- barbarous places, is + drawn together less by reciprocal wants than by the ties of blood. Here + families cannot disperse, and thus each hamlet is a single house, with its + patriarch for president and judge. When the population outgrows certain + limits, instead of being confounded with its neighbours, it adds a + settlement upon neighbouring ground, and removal is the work of a single + day. The towns are merely big villages, whose streets are labyrinths of + narrow pathways, often grass-grown, because each man builds in his own + way. Some translate the word "Banza" by city, unaware that Central African + people do not build cities. Professor Smith rightly explains it "a + village, which with them means a paterfamilias, and his private + dependants." So the maligned Douville (i. 159)—"On donne le nom de + banza à la ville ou réside le chef d'une peuplade ou nation nègre. On + l'attribue aussi à l'enceinte que le chef ou souverain habite avec les + femmes et sa cour. Dans ce dernier sens le mot banza veut dire palais du + chef." + </p> + <p> + Our situation is charming, high enough to be wholesome, yet in a sheltered + valley, an amphitheatre opening to the south-east or rainy quarter; the + glorious trees, here scattered, there gathered in clumps and impenetrable + bosquets, show the exuberant fertility of the soil. Behind and above the + village rises a dwarf plateau, rich with plantains and manioc. After the + deserted state of the river banks,—the effect of kidnapping,—we + are surprised to find so populous a region. Within cannon-shot, there are + not less than twelve villages, with a total, perhaps, of 2,400 souls. + </p> + <p> + Banza Nkaye, as usual uninclosed, contains some forty habitations, which + may lodge two hundred head. The tenements are built upon platforms cut out + of the hill slopes; and the make proves that, even during the rains, there + is little to complain of climate. Ten of these huts belong to royalty, + which lives upon the lowest plane; and each wife has her own abode, whilst + the "senzallas" of the slaves cluster outside. The foundation is slightly + raised, to prevent flooding. The superstructure strikes most travellers as + having somewhat the look of a châlet, although Proyart compares it with a + large basket turned upside down. Two strong uprights, firmly planted, + support on their forked ends a long strut-beam, tightly secured; the eaves + are broad to throw off the rain, and the neat thatch of grass, laid with + points upwards in regular courses, and kept in site by bamboo strips, is + renewed before the stormy season. The roof and walls are composed of six + screens; they are made upon the ground, often occupying months, and they + can be put together in a few minutes. The material, which an old traveller + says is of "leaves interwoven not contemptibly with one another," is a + grass growing everywhere on the hills, plaited and attached to strips of + cane or bamboo- palm (Raphia vinifera); the gable "walls" are often a + cheque- pattern, produced by twining "tie-tie," "monkey rope," or + creepers, stained black, round the dull-yellow groundwork; and one end is + pierced for a doorway, that must not front the winds and rains. It is a + small square hole, keeping the interior dark and cool; and the defence is + a screen of cane-work, fastened with a rude wooden latch. The flooring is + hard, tamped clay, in the centre of which the fire is laid; the cooking, + however, is confined to the broad eaves, or to the compound which, + surrounded with neat walls, backs the house. The interior is divided into + the usual "but" and "ben." The latter communicates with the former by a + passage, masked with a reed screen; it is the sleeping-place and the + store-room; and there is generally a second wicket for timely escape. The + only furniture consists of mats, calabashes, and a standing bedstead of + rude construction, or a bamboo cot like those built at Lagos,—in + fact, the four bare walls suggest penury. But in the "small countries," as + the "landward towns" are called, where the raid and the foray are not + feared, the householder entrusts to some faithful slave large stores of + cloth and rum, of arms and gunpowder. + </p> + <p> + The abodes suggest those of our semi-barbarous ancestors, as described by + Holingshed, where earth mixed with lime formed the floor; where the fire + was laid to the wall; where the smoke, which, besides hardening timber, + was "expected to keep the good man and his family from quake and fever, + curled from the door; and where the bed was a straw pallet, with a log of + wood for a pillow. But the Congoese is better lodged than we were before + the days of Queen Elizabeth; what are luxuries in the north, broad beds + and deep arm-chairs, would here be far less comfortable than the mats, + which serve for all purposes. I soon civilized my hut with a divan, the + Hindostani chabutarah, the Spanish estrada, the "mud bank" or "bunting" of + Sierra Leone, a cool earth-bench running round the room, which then wanted + only a glass window. But no domestic splendour was required; life in the + open air is the life for the tropics: even in England a greater proportion + of it would do away with much neuralgia and similar complaints. And, if + the establishment be simple, it is also neat and clean: we never suffered + from the cimex and pulex of which Captain Tuckey complains so bitterly, + and the fourmis voyageuses (drivers), mosquitoes, scorpions, and + centipedes were unknown to us. + </p> + <p> + The people much resemble those of the Gaboon. The figure is well formed, + except the bosom, whose shape prolonged lactation, probably upon the + principle called Malthusian, soon destroys; hence the first child is said + to "make the breasts fall." The face is somewhat broad and flat, the jowl + wide, deep, and strong, and the cerebellum is highly developed as in the + Slav. The eye is well opened, with thick and curly lashes, but the tunica + conjunctiva is rarely of a pure white; the large teeth are of good shape + and colour. Extensive tattoos appear on breasts, backs, and shoulders; the + wearers are generally slaves, also known by scantier clothing, by darker + skins, and by a wilder expression of countenance. During their "country + nursing," the children run about wholly nude, except the coating of red + wood applied by the mothers, or the dust gathered from the ground. I could + not hear of the weaning custom mentioned by Merolla, the father lifting + the child by the arm, and holding him for a time hanging in the air, + "falsely believing that by those means he will become more strong and + robust." Whilst the men affect caps, the women go bare-headed, either + shaving the whole scalp, or leaving a calotte of curly hair on the poll; + it resembles the Shúshah of Western Arabia and East Africa, but it is + carried to the fore like a toucan's crest. Some, by way of coquetterie, + trace upon the scalp a complicated network, showing the finest and + narrowest lines of black wool and pale skin: so the old traveller tells us + "the heads of those who aspire to glory in apparel resemble a parterre, + you see alleys and figures traced on them with a great deal of ingenuity." + The bosom, elaborately bound downwards, is covered with a square bit of + stuff, or a calico pagne—most ungraceful of raiment-wrapped under + the arms, and extending to the knees: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "In longitude'tis sorely scanty, + But ‘tis their best, and they are vaunty." +</pre> + <p> + The poor and the slaves content themselves with grass cloth. The ornaments + are brass earrings, beads and imitation coral; heavy bangles and manillas + of brass and copper, zinc and iron, loading the ankles, and giving a + dainty elephantine gait; the weight also produces stout mollets, which are + set off by bead-garters below the knees. The leg, as amongst hill people + generally, is finely developed, especially amongst the lower orders: the + "lady's" being often lank and spindled, as in Paris and Naples, where the + carriage shrinks the muscles as bandages cramp Chinese feet. + </p> + <p> + In these hamlets women are far more numerous than men. Marriage being + expensive amongst the "Mfumo" or gentry, the houses are stocked with + Hagars, and the children inherit their father's rank as Mwana Mfumos, + opposed to Mwanangambe, labouring people, or Wantu, slaves. + </p> + <p> + The missionaries found a regular system of "hand-fasting." Their neophytes + did not approve of marriage in facie ecclesiæ, "for they must first be + satisfied whether their wife will have children; whether she will be + diligent in her daily labour, and, lastly, whether she will prove + obedient, before they will marry her. If they find her faulty in any of + these points, they immediately send her back again to her parents." The + woman, not being looked upon the worse for being returned into stores, + soon afterwards underwent another trial, perhaps with success. Converts + were fined nine crowns for such irregularities. "But, oh!" exclaims a good + father, "what pains do we take to bring them to marry the lover, and how + many ridiculous arguments and reasons do they bring to excuse themselves + from this duty and restraint." He tells us how he refused absolution to a + dying woman, unless she compelled her daughter to marry a man with whom + she was "living upon trial." The mother answered wisely enough, "Father, I + will never give my daughter cause to curse me after I am dead, by obliging + her to wedlock where she does not fancy." Whereupon the priest replied, + "What! do you not stand more in awe of a temporal than an eternal curse?" + and, working upon the feelings of the girl, who began to tremble and to + weep, extorted from her a promise to accept the "feigned husband." He + adds, "Notwithstanding this, some obstinate mothers have rather chosen to + die unconfessed, than to concern themselves with the marriage of their + daughters." Being obliged to attend Communion at Easter, these temporary + couples would part on the first day of Lent; obtain absolution and, a week + afterwards, either cohabit once more or find otherpartners. The + "indiscreet method of courtship," popularly known as "bundling," here + existed, and was found by Caillié amongst the southern Moors: "When + everybody is at rest, the man creeps into his intended's tent, and remains + with her till daybreak." + </p> + <p> + An energetic attempt was made to abolish polygamy, which, instead of + diminishing population as some sciolists pretend, caused the country to + swarm like maritime China. Father Carli, who also dilates upon the evil + practice of the sexes living together on trial, ca. didly owns that his + main difficulty lay in "bringing the multitude to keep to one wife, they + being wholly averse to that law." Yet old travellers declare that when the + missionaries succeeded, the people "lived so Christian-like and lovingly + together, that the wife would suffer herself to be cut to pieces rather + than deceive her husband." Merolla, indeed, enlarges on the constancy of + women, whether white or black, when lawfully married to their mates; and + praises them for living together in all manner of love and amity. "Hence + may be learned what a propensity the women have to chastity in these + parts, many of whom meet together on the first day of Lent, and oblige + themselves, under pain of severe penance, to a strict continence till + Easter." In case of adultery the husband could divorce the wife; he was + generally satisfied by her begging his pardon, and by taking a slave from + the lover. Widowed "countesses," proved guilty of "immorality," suffered + death by fire or sword. On the other hand, the "princess" had a right to + choose her husband; but, as in Persia, the day of his splendid wedding was + the last of his liberty. He became a prisoner and a slave; he was + surrounded by spies; he was preceded by guards out of doors, and at the + least "écart" his head was chopped off and his paramour was sold. These + ladies amply revenged the servitude of their sex- - + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Asperius nihil est humili cum surgit in altum." +</pre> + <p> + Rich women were allowed to support quasihusbands until they became + mothers; and the slaves of course lived together without marriage. Since + the days of the Expedition a change for the better has come over the + gentil sesso. The traveller is no longer in the "dilemma of Frère Jean," + and, except at the river-mouth and at the adjacent villages, there is none + of that officious complaisance which characterizes every hamlet in the + Gaboon country. The men appear peculiarly jealous, and the women fearful + of the white face. Whenever we approached a feminine group, it would start + up and run away; if cooking ground-nuts, the boldest would place a little + heap upon the bottom of an upturned basket, push it towards us and wave us + off. The lowest orders will submit to a kind of marriage for four fathoms + of cloth; exactly double the tariff paid in Tuckey's time (pp. 171-181); + and this ratio will apply to all other articles of living. Amongst + themselves nubile girls are not remarkably strict; but as matrons they are + rigid. The adulterer is now punished by a heavy fine, and, if he cannot + pay, his death, as on many parts of the Southern Coast, is lawful to the + husband. + </p> + <p> + The life is regular, and society is simple and patriarchal, as amongst the + Iroquois and Mohawks, or in the Shetlands two centuries ago. The only + excitement, a fight or a slave hunt, is now become very rare. Yet I can + hardly lay down the "curriculum vitae" as longer than fifty-five years, + and there are few signs of great age. Merolla declares the women to be + longer-lived than the men. Gidi Mavunga, who told me that the Congo + Expedition visited their Banza when his mother was a child, can hardly be + forty-five, as his eldest son shows, and yet he looks sixty. The people + rise at dawn and, stirring up the fire, light the cachimbos or large clay + pipes which are rarely out of their mouths. Tobacco (nsunza) grows + everywhere and, when rudely cured, it is sold in ringlets or twisted + leaves; it is never snuffed, and the only chaw is the Mákázo or Kola nut + which grows all over these hills; of these I bought 200 for 100 coloured + porcelain beads, probably paying treble the usual price. No food is eaten + at dawn, a bad practice, which has extended to the Brazil and the + Argentine Republic; but if a dram be procurable it is taken "por la + manana." The slave-women, often escorted by one of the wives, and + accompanied by the small girls, who must learn to work whilst their + brothers are idling with their rattles, set out with water- pots balanced + on their Astrachan wool, or with baskets for grain and firewood slung by a + head-strap to the back The free-born remain at home, bathing and anointing + with palm-oil, which renders the skin smooth and supple, but leaves a + peculiar aroma; they are mostly cross enough till they have thoroughly + shaken off sleep, and the morning generally begins with scolding the + slaves or a family wrangle. I have seen something of the kind in Europe. + </p> + <p> + Visiting, chatting, and strolling from place to place, lead to the + substantial breakfast or first dinner between 9 and 10 A.M. Meat rarely + appears; river fish, fresh or sun-dried, is the usual "kitchen," eaten + with manioc, toasted maize, and peeled, roasted, and scraped plantain: + vegetables and palm-oil obtained by squeezing the nut in the hands, are + the staple dish, and beans are looked upon rather as slaves' food. They + have no rice and no form of "daily bread:" I happened to take with me a + few boxes of "twice-baked," and this Mbolo was the object of every chiefs + ambition. "Coleworts" are noticed by Merolla as a missionary importation; + he tells us that they produce no seed; and are propagated by planting the + sprouts, which grow to a great height. The greens, cabbages, spinach, and + French beans, mentioned by Tuckey, have been allowed to die out. Tea, + coffee, sugar, and all such exotics, are unappreciated, if not unknown; + chillies, which grow wild, enter into every dish, and the salt of native + manufacture, brown and earthy, is bought in little baskets. + </p> + <p> + Between breakfast and midday there is a mighty drink. The palm- wine, here + called "Msámbá," and on the lower river "Manjewa," is not brought in at + dawn, or it would be better. The endogen in general use is the elai's, + which is considered to supply a better and more delicate liquor than the + raphia. The people do not fell the tree like the Kru-men, but prefer the + hoop of "supple-jack" affected by the natives of Fernando Po and + Camarones. A leaf folded funnel-wise, and inserted as usual in the lowest + part of the frond before the fruit forms, conveys the juice into the + calabashes, often three, which hang below the crown; and the daily produce + may be ten quarts. On the first day of tapping, the sap is too sweet; it + is best during the following week and, when it becomes tart, no more must + be drawn or the tree will be injured. It cannot be kept; acetous + fermentation sets in at once, and presently it coagulates and corrupts. At + Banana and Boma it is particularly good; at Porto da Lenha it is half + water, but the agents dare not complain, for the reason which prevents + them offering "spliced grog" to the prepotent negro. Europeans enjoy the + taste, but dislike the smell of palm-wine; those in whom it causes + flatulence should avoid it, but where it agrees it is a pleasant + stimulant, pectoral, refreshing, and clearing the primæ vice. Mixed with + wine or spirits, it becomes highly intoxicating. The rude beers, called by + Merolla Guallo and by Tuckey (p. 120) Baamboo, the Oualo of Douville, and + the Pombeof East Africa, mentioned by almost every traveller, are not now + found on the lower river. + </p> + <p> + About noon the slaves return from handling their trowel-shaped iron hoes, + and the "gentleman" takes a siesta proportioned to his drink. The poorer + classes sit at home weaving, spinning, or threading beads, whilst the + wives attend to household work, prepare the meals, buy and sell, dig and + delve. Europeans often pity the sex thus "doomed to perform the most + laborious drudgery;" but it is a waste of sentiment. The women are more + accustomed to labour in all senses of the word, and the result is that + they equal their mates in strength and stature; they enjoy robust health, + and their children, born without difficulty, are sturdy and vigorous. The + same was the case amongst the primitive tribes of Europe; Zamacola + (Anthrop. Mem. ii. 38), assures us that the Basque women were physically + powerful as the men, with whom they engaged in prize-fights. + </p> + <p> + The master awakes about 3 P.M. and smokes, visits, plays with his + children, and dawdles away his time till the cool sunset, when a second + edition of the first meal is served up. If there be neither dance nor + festival, all then retire to their bens, light the fire, and sit smoking + tobacco or bhang, with frequent interruptions of palm wine or rum, till + joined by their partners. Douville (ii. 113), says that the Pangué or + chanvre, "croît naturellement dans lepays" I believe the questions to be + still sub judice, whether the intoxicating cannabis be or be not + indigenous to Africa as well as to Asia; and whether smoking was not known + in the Old World, as it certainly was in the New, before tobacco was + introduced. The cannabis Indica was the original anæsthetic known to the + Arabs and to civilized Orientals many centuries before the West invented + ether and chloroform. + </p> + <p> + Our landlord has two wives, but one is a mother and will not rejoin him + till her child can carry a calabash of water unaided. To avoid exciting + jealousy he lives in a hut apart, surrounded by seven or eight slaves, + almost all of them young girls. This regular life is varied by a little + extra exertion at seed-time and harvest, by attending the various + quitandas or markets of the country side, and by an occasional trip to + "town" (Boma). When the bush is burning, all sally out with guns, clubs, + and dogs, to bring home "beef." And thus they dwell in the presence of + their brethren, thinking little of to-day, and literally following the + precept, "Take no thought for the morrow." As the old missioners testify, + they have happy memories, their tempers are mild, and quarrels rarely lead + to blows; they are covetous, but not miserly; they share what they have, + and they apply the term "close-fist" to the European who gives "nuffin for + nuffin." + </p> + <p> + The most superstitious of men, they combine the two extremes of belief and + unbelief; they have the firmest conviction in their own tenets, whilst + those of others flow off their minds like water from a greased surface. + The Catholic missioners laboured amongst them for nearly two hundred + years; some of these ecclesiastics were ignorant and bigoted as those whom + we still meet on the West African Coast, but not a few were earnest and + energetic, scrupulous and conscientious, able and learned as the best of + our modern day. All did not hurry over their superficial tasks like the + Neapolitan father Jerome da Montesarchio, who baptized 100,000 souls; and + others, who sprinkled children till their arms were tired. Many lived for + years in the country, learning the language and identifying themselves + with their flocks. Yet the most they ever effected was to make their + acolytes resemble the Assyrians whom Shalmaneser transplanted to Assyria, + who "feared the Lord and served their graven images" (2 Kings, xvii. + 33-41). Their only traces are the word "Deus," foully perverted like the + Chinese "joss;" and an occasional crucifix which is called cousa de branco—white + man's thing. Tuckey was justified in observing at Nokki that the + crucifixes, left by missioners, were strangely mixed with native fetishes, + and that the people seemed by no means improved by the muddle of Christian + and Pagan idolatry. + </p> + <p> + The system is at once complicated and unsettled. There is, apparently, the + sensus numinis; the vague deity being known as Nzambi or Njambi, which the + missionaries translated into God, as Nganna Zambi—Lord Zambi. + Merolla uses Zambiabungù, and in the vocabulary, Zabiambunco, for the + "Spirit above" (Zambi-a-npungo): Battel tells us that the King of Loango + was called "Sambee and Pango, which mean God." The Abbé Proyart terms the + Supreme "Zambi," and applies Zambi-a-n-pongou to a species of malady + brought on by perjury. He also notices the Manichæan idea of Zambi-a-Nbi, + or bad-God, drawing the fine distinction of European belief in a deity + supremely good, who permits evil without participating in it. But the + dualism of moral light and darkness, noticed by all travellers,<a + href="#linknote-25" name="linknoteref-25" id="linknoteref-25"><small>25</small></a> + is a bonâ fide existence with Africans, and the missionaries converted the + Angolan "Cariapemba" into the Aryo-Semitic Devil. + </p> + <p> + Zambi is the Anyambia of the Gaboon country, a vox et præterea nihil. Dr. + Livingstone ("First Expedition," p. 641), finds the word general amongst + the Balonda, or people of Lunda: with the "Cazembes" the word is "Pambi," + or "Liza," and "O Muata Cazembe" (p. 297) mentions the proverb, "Ao Pambi + e ao Mambi (the King) nada iguala." In the "Vocabulario da lingua Cafrial" + we see (p. 469) that "Murungo" means God or thunder. It is the rudimental + idea of the great Zeus, which the Greeks worked out, the God of Æther, the + eternal, omnipotent, and omniscient, "who was, who is, and who is to + come," the Unknown and Unknowable, concerning whom St. Paul quoted + Aristæus on Mars' Hill. But the African brain naturally confused it with a + something gross and material: thus Nzambi-a-Npungu is especially the + lightning god. Cariambemba is, properly, Kadi Mpemba or Ntangwa, the being + that slays mankind: Merolla describes it as an "abominable idol;" and the + word is also applied to the owl, here as in Dahome the object of + superstition. I could trace no sign of worship paid to the sun (Tangwa or + Muinyi), but there are multitudes of minor gods, probably deified ghosts, + haunting particular places. Thus, "Simbi" presides over villages and the + "Tadi Nzazhi," or Lightning Rock, near Boma; whilst the Yellala is the + abode of an evil being which must be propitiated by offerings. As usual + amongst Fetish worshippers, the only trace of belief in a future state is + faith in revenants—returning men or ghosts. + </p> + <p> + Each village has an idol under a little wall-less roof, apparently an + earthern pot of grease and feathers, called Mavunga. This may be the + Ovengwa of the "Camma people," a "terrible catcher and eater of men, a + vampire of the dead; personal, whilst the Ibamba are indistinct; tall as a + tree; wandering through the woods, ever winking; whereas the Greek + immortals were known by their motionless eyelids. "Ngolo Wanga" is a + man-shaped figure of unpainted wood, kept in the hut. Every house is stuck + inside and outside with idols and fetishes, interpreters of the Deity, + each having its own jurisdiction over lightning, wind, and rain; some act + as scarecrows; others teach magic, avert evils, preserve health and sight, + protect cattle, and command fish in the sea or river. They are in all + manner of shapes, strings of mucuna and poison-beans; carved images stuck + over with feathers and tassels; padlocks with a cowrie or a mirror set in + them; horns full of mysterious "medicine;" iron- tipped poles; bones; + birds' beaks and talons; skins of snakes and leopards, and so forth. We + shall meet them again upon our travels. + </p> + <p> + No man walks abroad without his protecting charms, Nkisi or Nkizi, the + Monda of the Gaboon, slung en baudrier, or hanging from his shoulder. The + portable fetish of our host is named "Báká chyá Mázínga: Professor Smith + (p. 323) makes "Mázengá" to be "fetishes for the detection of theft." + These magicæ vanitates are prophylactics against every evil to which man's + frailty is heir. The missioners were careful not to let their Congo + converts have anything from their bodies, like hair or nail parings, for + fear lest it be turned to superstitious use; and a beard (the price of + conversion) was refused to the "King of Micocco." Like the idols, these + talismans avert ill luck, bachelorhood, childlessness, poverty, and ill + health; they are equally powerful against the machinations of foes, + natural or supernatural; against wild beasts, the crocodile, the snake, + and the leopard; and against wounds of lead and steel. They can produce + transformation; destroy enemies; cause rain or drought, fine or foul + weather; raise and humble, enrich and impoverish countries; and, above all + things, they are sovereign to make man brave in battle. Shortly before we + entered Banza Nkaye a propitiation of the tutelary gods took place: + Coxswain Deane had fired an Enfield, and the report throughout the + settlement was that our guns would kill from the river-bank. + </p> + <p> + The Nganga of Congo-land, the Mganga of the Wasawahili and the Uganga of + the Gaboon, exactly corresponds with M. Michelet's Sorcière of the Middle + Ages, "physicienne," that is doctor for the people and poisoner; we + cannot, however, apply in Africa the adage of Louis XIII.'s day, "To one + wizard ten thousand witches." In the "Muata Cazembe" (pp. 57, et passim) + we read "O Ganga or O Surjão;" the magician is there called "Muroi," + which, like "Fite," is also applied to magic. The Abbé Proyart opines of + his professional brother, "he is ignorant as the rest of the people, but a + greater rogue,"—a pregnant saying. Yet here "the man of two worlds" + is not l'homme de révolution, and he suffices for the small "spiritual + wants" of his flock. He has charge of the "Kizila," the "Chigella" of + Merolla and the "Quistilla" of James Barbot—Anglicè putting things + in fetish, which corresponds with the Tahitian tapu or taboo. The African + idea is, that he who touches the article, for instance, gold on the + eastern coast of Guinea, will inevitably come to grief. When "fetish is + taken off," as by the seller of palm wine who tastes it in presence of the + buyer, the precaution is evidently against poison. Many of these "Kizila" + are self-imposed, for instance a water melon may never enter Banza Nokki, + and, though slaves may eat bananas upon a journey, the master may not. + Others refuse the flesh of a fowl until it has been tasted by a woman. + These rules are delivered to the young, either by the fetishman or the + parents, and, when broken, they lead to death, doubtless often the + consequence of strong belief. The Nganga superintends, as grand + inquisitor, the witch-ordeal, by causing the accused to chew red-wood and + other drugs in this land ferax venenorum. Park was right: "By witchcraft + is meant pretended magic, affecting the lives and healths of persons, in + other words it is the administering of poison." European "Narratives of + Sorcery and Magic" exactly explain the African idea, except in one point: + there the witch "only suffered from not being able to prove to Satan how + much she burned to suffer for his sake;" here she has no Satan. Both + European and African are the firmest believers in their own powers; they + often confess, although knowing that the confession leads directly to + torture and death, with all the diabolical ingenuity of which either race + was capable. In Tuckey's time a bargain was concluded by breaking a leaf + or a blade of grass, and this rite it was "found necessary to perform with + the seller of every fowl:" apparently it is now obsolete. Finally, + although the Fetish man may be wrong, the fetish cannot err. If a + contretemps occur, a reason will surely be found; and, should the "doctor" + die, he has fallen a victim to a rival or an enemy more powerful than + himself. + </p> + <p> + A striking institution of the Congo region is that of the Jinkemba, which, + curious to say, is unnoticed by Tuckey. It is not, however, peculiar to + the Congo; it is the "Semo" of the Susus or Soosoos of the Windward Coast, + and the "Purrah" of the Sherbro-Balloms or Bulloms, rendered Anglicè by + "free-masonry." The novitiate there lasts for seven or eight years, and + whilst the boys live in the woods food is placed for them by their + relations: the initiation, indeed, appears to be especially severe. Here + all the free-born males are subjected to the wrongly called "Mosaic rite." + Merolla tells us that the wizards circumcise children on the eighth day + (like the Jews), not out of regard for the law, but with some wicked end + and purpose of their own. At any time between the ages of five and fifteen + (eight to ten being generally preferred), boys are taken from their + parents (which must be an exceeding comfort to the latter), and for a + native year, which is half of ours, they must dwell in the Vivála ya + Ankimba, or Casa de Feitiço, like that which we passed before reaching + Banza Nokki. They are now instructed by the Nganga in the practices of + their intricate creed; they are taught the mysteries under solemn oaths, + and, in fine, they are prepared for marriage. Upon the Congo they must eat + no cooked food, living wholly upon roots and edibles; but they are allowed + to enter the villages for provisions, and here they often appear armed + with matchets, bayonets, and wooden swords. Their faces and necks, bodies + and arms, are ghastly white with chalk or ashes; the hair is left in its + original jet, and the dingy lower limbs contrast violently with the + ghostlike absence of colour above. The dress is a crinoline of + palm-fronds, some fresh and green, others sere and brown; a band of strong + mid-rib like a yellow hoop passed round the waist spreads out the + petticoat like a farthingale, and the ragged ends depend to the knees; + sometimes it is worn under the axillae, but in all cases the chalked arms + must be outside. The favourite attitude is that of the Rhodian Colossus, + with the elbows bent to the fore and the hands clasped behind the head. To + increase their prestige of terror, the Jinkomba abjure the use of human + language, and, meeting a stranger, ejaculate with all their might, + "Hár-rr-rr-rr-rr!" and "Jojolo! Jojolo!" words mystic and meaningless. + When walking in procession, they warn the profane out of the way by + striking one slip of wood upon another. They are wilder in appearance than + the Hindu Jogi or Sanyasi, who also affects the use of ashes, but neglects + that of the palm-thatch. It is certainly enough to startle a man of + impressible nerves— one, for instance, who cannot enter a room + without a side-long glance at an unexpected coffin—to see these + hideous beings starting with their savage cry from the depths of an + African forest. Evidently, also, such is the intention of the costume. + </p> + <p> + Contrasting the Congoese with the Goanese, we obtain a measure of + difference between the African and the Asiatic. Both were Portuguese + colonies founded about the same time, and under very similar + circumstances; both were catechized and Christianized in the sixteenth and + seventeenth centuries; both had governors and palaces, bishops and + cathedrals, educational establishments and a large staff of missioners. + But Asia was not so inimical, mentally or bodily, to the European frame as + Africa; the Goanese throve after a fashion, the mixed breed became the + staple population, and thus it continues till this day. On the other hand + the Hamitic element so completely asserted its superiority over + insititious Japheth, that almost every trace has disappeared in a couple + of centuries. There lingers, it is true, amongst the Congoese of the + coast-regions a something derived from the olden age, still distinguishing + them from the wild people of the interior, and at times they break out + naturally in the tongue of their conquerors. But it requires a practised + eye to mark these minutiae. + </p> + <p> + The Congoese are passably brave amongst themselves; crafty and confined in + their views, they carry "knowledge of life" as far as it is required, and + their ceremonious intercourse is remarkable and complicated. They have + relapsed into the analphabetic state of their ancestors; they are great at + eloquence; and, though without our poetical forms, they have a variety of + songs upon all subjects and they improvise panegyrics in honour of chiefs + and guests. Their dances have been copied in Europe. Without ever + inventing the modes of the Greeks, which are still preserved by the + Hindoos, they have an original music, dealing in harmony rather than in + tune, and there are motives, of course all in the minor key, which might + be utilized by advanced peoples; these sons of nature would especially + supply material for that recitative which Verdi first made something + better than a vehicle for dialogue. Hence the old missioners are divided + in opinion; whilst some find the sound of the "little guitar," with + strings of palm-thread and played with the thumbs of both hands, "very + low, but not ungrateful," others speak of the "hellish harmony" of their + neophytes' bands. The instrument alluded to is the nsambi or nchambi; four + strings are attached to bent sticks springing from the box; it is the + wambi of the Shekyanis (Du Chaillu, chap. xii), but the bridge, like that + of our violin, gives it an evident superiority, and great care and labour + are required in the maker. + </p> + <p> + This form of the universal marimba is a sounding-board of light wood, + measuring eight inches by five; some eight to eleven iron keys, flat + strips of thin metal, pass over an upright bamboo bridge, fixed by thongs + to the body, and rest at the further end upon a piece of skin which + prevents "twanging." The tocador or performer brings out soft and pleasing + tones with the sides of the thumbs and fingers. They have drums and the + bell-like cymbals called chingufu: M. Valdez (ii. 221 et passim), writes + "Clincufo," which he has taken from a misprint in Monteiro and Gamitto. + The chingufu of East Africa is a hollow box performed upon with a + drum-stick of caoutchouc. The pipes are wooden tubes with sundry holes and + a bridge below the mouth-piece; they are played over edge like our flutes. + The "hellish harmonies" mostly result from an improvised band, one + strumming the guitar, another clapping the sticks, and the third beating + the bell-shaped irons that act as castanets. + </p> + <p> + The language of the people on and near the Congo River is called "Fiote," + a term used by old travellers to denote a black man as opposed to Mundele + (white), and also applied to things, as Bondefiote or black baft. James + Barbot (p. 512) gives specimens of some thirty-three words and the + numerals in the "Angoy language, spoken at Cabinde," which proves to be + that of the River. Of these many are erroneous: for instance, "nova," to + sleep (ku-núa); "sursu," a hen (nsusu): while "fina," scarlet; "bayeta," + baize; and "fumu," tobacco, are corrupted Portuguese. A young lad, + "muleche" (moleque), Father Merolla's "molecchas, a general name among the + negroes," for which Douville prefers "moleke" (masc.) and "molecka" + (fem.), is applied only to a slave, and in this sense it has extended west + of the Atlantic. In the numerals, "wale" (2) should be "kwále," "quina" + (4) "kúyá," and "evona" (9) "iowá." We may remark the pentenary system of + the Windward Coast and the Gaboon negroes; e.g., 6 is "sambano" ("mose" + and "tano" 1 + 5), and 7 is "sambwale" ("mose" and "kwale") and so forth, + whilst "kumi" (10), possibly derived from neighbouring races, belongs to + the decimal system. + </p> + <p> + The first attempt at a regular vocabulary was made by Douville, (vol. iii. + p. 261): "Vocabidaire de la Langue Mogialoua, et des deux dialectcs + principaux Abunda (Angolan) et Congo" (Fiote); it is also very incorrect. + The best is that published in Appendix No. I. to the Congo Expedition, + under the name of "Embomma;" we may quote the author's final remark: "This + vocabulary I do not consider to be free from mistakes which I cannot now + find time to discover. All the objects of the senses are, however, + correct." M. Parrot showed me a MS. left at Banana Point by a French + medical officer, but little could be said in its praise. Monteiro and + Gamitto (pp. 479-480) give seventeen "Conguez" words, and the Congo + numerals as opposed to the "Bundo." + </p> + <p> + The Fiote is a member of the great South African family; some missionaries + argued, from its beauty and richness, that it had formerly been written, + but of this there is no proof. M. Malte- Brun supposes the Congoese + dialects to indicate "a meditative genius foreign to the habitual + condition of these people," ignoring the fact that the most complicated + and laborious tongues are those of barbarous nations, whilst modern + civilization in variably labours to simplify. It is copious; every place, + tree, shrub, or plant used by the people has its proper name; it is + harmonious and pleasing, abounding in vowels and liquids, destitute of + gutturals, and sparing in aspirates and other harsh consonants. At the + same time, like the rest of the family, it is clumsy and unwieldy, whilst + immense prolixity and frequent repetition must develope the finer shades + of meaning. Its peculiarity is a greater resemblance to the Zanzibarian + Kisawahili than any tongue known to me on the Western Coast: often a + question asked by the guide, as "Njia hápá?" (Is this the road?) and "Jina + lako nani?" (What's your name?) was perfectly intelligible to me.The + latter is a fair specimen of the peculiar euphony which I have noticed in + "Zanzibar" (vol. i. chap. x.). We should expect "Jina jako," whereas this + would offend the native ear. It requires a scholar-like knowledge of the + tongue to apply the curious process correctly, and the self-sufficient + critic should beware how he attempts to correct quotations from the native + languages. + </p> + <p> + I need hardly say that the speakers are foul-mouthed as the Anglo-African + of S'a Leone and the "English" Coast; they borrow the vilest words from + foreign tongues; a spade is called a spade with a witness, and feminine + relatives are ever the subject of abuse; a practice which, beginning in + Europe with the Slav race, extends more or less throughout the Old World. + I specify the Old World, because the so-called "Indians" of North and + South America apparently ignore the habit except where they have learned + it from Southern Europe. Finally, cursing takes the place of swearing, the + latter being confined, I believe, to the Scandinavians, the Teutons, and + their allied races. + </p> + <p> + Nothing can be more unpleasant than the Portuguese spoken by the Congoman. + He transposes the letters lacking the proper sounds in his own tongue; for + instance, "sinholo" (sinyolo) is "senhor;" "munyele" or "minyele" is + "mulher;" "O luo" stands in lieu of "O rio," (the river); "rua" of "lua" + (luna), and so forth. For to- morrow you must use "cedo" as "manhaa" would + not be understood, and the prolixity of the native language is transferred + to the foreign idiom. For instance, if you ask, "What do you call this + thing?" the paraphrase to be intelligible would be, "The white man calls + this thing so-and-so; what does the Fiote call this thing?" sixteen words + for six. I have elsewhere remarked how Englishmen make themselves + unintelligible by transferring to Hindostani and other Asiatic tongues the + conciseness of their own idiom, in which as much is understood as is + expressed. We can well understand the outraged feelings with which poor + Father Cannecattim heard his sermons travestied by the Abundo negroes do + Paiz or linguists, the effect of which was to make him compose his + laborious dictionary in Angolan, Latin, and Portuguese. His wrath in + reflecting upon "estos homems ou estos brutos" drives the ecclesiastic to + imitate the ill-conditioned layman who habitually addresses his slave as + "O bruto! O burro! O bicho! O diabo!" when he does not apply the more + injurious native terms as "Konongwako" and "Vendengwandi." It is only fair + to confess that no race is harsher in its language and manners to its + "black brethren," than the liberated Africans of the English settlements. + </p> + <p> + At Banza Nokki I saw the first specimen of a Mundongo slave girl. The + tribe is confounded with the Mandingo (Mandenga) Moslems by the author of + the "Introduction to Tuckey's Journey" (p. Ixxxi.); by Tuckey (p. 141), + who also calls them Mandonzo (p. 135), and by Prof. Smith (p. 315); but + not by the accurate Marsden (p. 389). She described her tribe as living + inland to the east and north- east of the Congo peoples, distant two moons—a + detail, of course, not to be depended upon. I afterwards met many of these + "captives," who declared that they had been sold after defeats: a fine, + tall race, one is equal to two Congo men, and the boldness of demeanour in + both sexes distinguishes them from other serviles. Apparently under this + name there are several tribes inhabiting lands of various elevations; some + are coloured café au lait, as if born in a high and healthy region; others + are almost jet black with the hair frightfully "wispy," like a mop. + Generally the head is bullet-shaped, the face round, the features negroid, + not negro, and the hands and feet large but not ill- shaped. Some again + have the Hausa mark, thread-like perpendicular cuts from the zygomatic + arches running parallel with the chin; in other cases the stigmata are + broad beauty-slashes drawn transversely across the cheeks to the jawbone, + and forming with the vertical axis an angle of 45°. All are exceedingly + fond of meat, and, like the Kru-men, will devour it semi-putrified. The + Congoese declare them to be "papagentes" (cannibals), a term generally + applied by the more advanced to the bushmen living beyond their frontier, + and useful to deter travellers and runaways. They themselves declare that + they eat the slain only after a battle—the sentimental form of + anthropophagy. The slave- girl produced on this occasion was told to sing; + after receiving some beads, without which she would not open her lips, we + were treated to a "criard" performance which reminded me of the "heavenly + muse" in the Lake Regions of Central Africa. + </p> + <p> + The neighbours of the Mundonoros are the Mubangos, the Muyanji (Muyanzi?), + and the Mijolo, by some called Mijere. Possibly Tuckey alludes to the + Mijolos when he tells us (p. 141), that the "Mandingo" slave whom he + bought on the Upper River, called his country "M'intolo." I have seen + specimens of the three, who are so similar in appearance that a stranger + distinguishes them only by the tattoo. No. 1 gashes a line from the root + of the hair to the commissure of the nose: No. 2 has a patch of cuts, five + in length and three in depth, extending from the bend of the eye- brow + across the zygomata to the ear, and No. 3 wears cuts across the forehead. + I was shown a sword belonging to the Mijolo: all declared that it is of + native make; yet it irresistibly suggested the old two-handed weapon of + Europe, preserved by the Bedawin and the Eastern Arabs, who now mostly + derive it from Sollingen. The long, straight, flexible, and double-edged + blade is neatly mounted by the tang in a handle with a pommel, or + terminating knob, of ivory; others prefer wood. The guard is very + peculiar, a thin bar of iron springing from the junction of blade and + grip, forming an open oval below, and prolonged upwards and downwards in + two branches parallel with the handle, and protecting the hand. They + dance, brandishing this weapon, according to the slaves, in the presence + of their princes. + </p> + <p> + I inquired vainly about the Anzicos, Anzichi, Anzigui, Anzigi, or Anziki, + whose king, Makoko, the ruler of thirteen kingdoms, was placed by Dapper + north-west of Monemugi (Unyamwezi), and whom Pigafetta (p. 79) located + close to the Congo, and near his northern Lake. "It is true that there are + two lakes, not, however, lying east and west (Ptolemy's system), but north + and south of each other, and about 400 miles asunder. The first is in + south latitude 12°. The Nile, issuing from it, does not, according to + Odoardo (Duarte Lopez), sink in the earth nor conceal itself, but, after + flowing northwards, it enters the second lake, which is 220 miles in + extent, and is called by the natives a sea." If the Tanganyika shall be + found to connect with the Luta Nzige or Mwutan Lake, this passage will be + found wonderfully truthful. The Tanganyika's southern versant is now + placed in south latitude 8° 46' 54", or in round numbers 9°, and the other + figures are nearly as correct. James Barbot causes these Anzikos to wander + "almost through all Africa," from Nubia to the Congo, like negro Bedawin + or Scythians; the common food was man's flesh fattened for the market and + eaten by the relatives, even of those who died diseased. Their "capital," + Monsol, was built by D'Anville, close to the equator in the very centre of + Africa (east longitude Greenwich, 26° 20') hard by Douville's "Yanvo;" and + the "Opener of Inner Africa in 1852" (pp. 3, 4, 69), with equal + correctness, caused them to "occupy the hills opposite to Sundi, and + extending downwards to Emboma below the Falls." + </p> + <p> + Mr. Cooley ("Ocean Highways," June, 1873), now explains the word as + A-nzi-co, "people not of the country," barbarians, bushmen. This kind of + information, derived from a superficial knowledge of an Angolan + vocabulary, is peculiarly valueless. I doubt that a negative can thus be + suffixed to a genitive. The name may simply have been A-nziko (man) of the + back-settlement. In 1832, Mr. Cooley writes: "the nation of the Anziko (or + Ngeco):" in 1845, "the Anziki, north of Congo:" in 1852, "the Micoco or + king of the Anziko"—und so weiter. What can we make of this + geographical Proteus? The first Congo Expedition who covered all the + ground where the Creator of the Great Central Sea places the Anzikos, + never heard of them—nor will the second. + </p> + <p> + Not being then so well convinced of the nonexistence of the Giaghi, + Giagas, Gagas, or Jagas as a nation, I inquired as vainly for those + terrible cannibals who had gone the way of all the Anzikos. According to + Lopez, Battel, Merolla, and others, they "consider human flesh as the most + delicious food, and goblets of warm blood as the most exquisite beverage." + This act on the part of savage warriors might have been a show of mere + bravado. But I cannot agree with the editor of Tuckey's "Narrative," "From + the character and disposition of the native African, it may fairly be + doubted whether, throughout the whole of this great continent, a negro + cannibal has any existence." The year 1816 was the Augustan age of + outrageous negrophilism and equally extreme anti- Napoleonism. "If a + French general" (Introduction, p. i), "brutally seized the person and + papers of a British naval officer, on his return from a voyage of + discovery," who, I would ask, plundered and destroyed the fine botanical + collection made at risk of health and life, during fifteen months of hard + labour, by the learned Palisot de Beauvois, author of the "Flore d'Oware?" + The "Reviewer" of Douville (p. 177) as sensibly declares that cannibalism + "has hitherto continually retired before the investigation of + sober-minded, enlightened men," when, after a century or two of + intercourse with white traders, it still flourishes on the Bonny and New + Calabar Rivers. + </p> + <p> + We are glad to be rid of the Jagas, a subject which has a small literature + of its own; the savage race appeared everywhere like a "deus ex machina," + and it became to Intertropical Africa what the "Lost Tribes" were and even + now are in some cases, to Asia and not rarely to Europe. Even the sensible + Mr. Wilson ("West Africa," p. 238) has "no doubt of the Jagas being the + same people with the more modernly discovered Pangwes" (Fans); and this is + duly copied by M. du Chaillu (chap. viii.). M. Valdez (ii. 150) more + sensibly records that the first Jaga established in Portuguese territory + was called Colaxingo (Kolashingo), and that his descendants were named + "Jagas," like the Egyptian Pharaohs, the Roman Ceesars, the Austrian + Kaisers, and the Russian Czars: he also reminds us (p. 150) that the chief + of the Bangalas inhabiting Cassange (= Kasanjí) was the Jaga or ruler par + excellence. + </p> + <p> + Early on the morning of September 11, I was aroused by a "bob" in the open + before us. We started up, fearing that some death by accident had taken + place: the occasion proved, on the contrary, to be one of ushering into + life. The women were assembled in a ring round the mother, and each howled + with all the might of her lungs, either to keep off some evil spirit or to + drown the sufferer's cries. In some parts of Africa, the Gold Coast for + instance, it is considered infamous for a woman thus to betray her pain, + but here we are amongst a softer race. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XII. — Preparations for the March. + </h2> + <p> + Gidi Mavunga, finding me in his power, began, like a thoroughbred African, + to raise obstacles. We must pass through the lands of two kings, the Mfumo + ma Vivi (Bibbie of Tuckey) and the Mfumu Nkulu or Nkuru (Cooloo). The + distance was short, but it would occupy five days, meaning a week. Before + positively promising an escort he said it would be necessary to inspect my + outfit; I at once placed it in the old man's hands, the better to say, + "This is not mine, ask Gidi Mavunga for it." + </p> + <p> + My patience had been severely tried on first arrival at Banza Nokki. From + ruler to slave every one begged for cloth and rum, till I learned to hate + the names of these necessaries. Besides the five recognized kings of the + district, who wore black cloth coats, all the petty chiefs of the + neighbourhood flocked in, importunate to share the spoils. A tariff, about + one-third higher than at Boma, was set upon every article and, if the most + outrageous price was refused, the seller, assuming an insipid expression + of countenance, declared that great white men travelled with barrels, not + with bottles of aguardente, and that without liberality it would be + impossible to leave the village. Nsundi, the settlement above the Falls, + was a journey of two moons, and none of the ten "kings" on the way would + take less than Nessudikira's "dash." Congo Grande, as the people call São + Salvador, was only four marches to the E.S.E.; the road, however, was + dangerous, and an escort of at least fifty men would be necessary. + </p> + <p> + But when I was "upon the head of Gidi Mavunga" matters changed for the + better. Shortly after he took charge, one Tetu Mayella, "King" of Neprat, + accompanied by some twenty followers, entered the village with a view to + the stranger's rum: by referring them to the new owner they perforce + contented themselves after three hours' "parliamenting," with a single + bottle. The ruler of Nokki wanted, besides gin and cloth, a pair of shoes + for his poor feet, which looked clad in alligator's skin; I referred him + to his father, and he got little by that motion. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of September 10, Gidi Mavunga, who had been visiting his + "small country," returned, and declared himself ready to set out. He + placed before me ten heaps, each of as many ground-nuts, and made me + understand that, for visiting Nsundi and S. Salvador, he would take fifty + short "pieces" (of cloth) for himself and the same number for his slaves; + one moiety to be advanced before the first trip to the Cataracts and the + rest to follow. For half my store of beads he undertook to ration his men; + a work which would have given us endless trouble. As I agreed to all his + conditions he promised to move on the next day- -without the least + intention of carrying out any one of his conditions. + </p> + <p> + These people are rich, and not easily tempted to hard work. During the + French émigration, the district of Banza Nokki drove slaves to the value + of 60,000 dollars per annum, and the dollar is to the African the pound + sterling of Europe. It is one of the hundred out-stations which supplied + the main dépôts, Boma and Porto da Lenha. Small parties went out at + certain seasons provided with rum, gunpowder, and a little cloth; and + either bought the "chattels" or paid earnest money, promising to settle + the whole debt at their villages. Gidi Mavunga, like most of the elders, + was perfectly acquainted with the routes to Nsundi, S. Salvador, and other + frontier places, where the bush people brought down their criminals and + captives for barter. Beyond those points his information was all from + hearsay. + </p> + <p> + Besides the large stores in their "small countries," the middle- men have + a multitude of retainers, who may at any moment be converted into capital. + Yet "slave" is a term hardly applicable to such "chattels," who, as a + rule, are free as their lords. They hold at their disposal all that the + master possesses, except his wives; they sleep when they choose, they work + when they like; they attend to their private affairs, and, if blamed or + punished, they either run away, as at Zanzibar, to their own country, or + they take sanctuary with some neighbouring Mfumo, who, despite the + inevitable feud, is bound by custom to protect them. Cold and hunger, the + torments of the poor in Europe, are absolutely unknown to them, and their + condition contrasts most favourably with the "vassus" and the "servus" of + our feudal times. Their wives and children are their own: the master + cannot claim the tyrannous marriage-rights of the baron; no "wedding-dish" + is carried up to the castle; nor is the eldest born "accounted the son of + the serf's lord, for he perchance it was who begat him." The brutality of + slavery, I must repeat, is mainly the effect of civilization. "I shall + never forget," says Captain Boteler, "the impatient tosses of the head and + angry looks displayed by a— lady—when the subject was + canvassed. ‘A negro, a paltry negro, ever understand or conform to the + social tie of wedlock! No, never! never!' Yet this lady was an + English-woman." And when James Barbot's supercargo begins to examine his + negroes like cattle he is begged, for decency's sake, to do it in a + private place, "which shows these blacks are very modest." It rather + proved the whites to be the reverse. + </p> + <p> + At 7.20 A.M. on September 11, the "moleques" seized our luggage, and we + suddenly found ourselves on the path. Gidi Mavunga, wearing pagne and + fetish-bag, and handling a thin stick in which two bulges had been cut, + led us out of Banza Nokki, and took a S.S.W. direction. The uneven ground + was covered with a bitter tomato (nenga) and with the shrub which, + according to Herodotus, bears wool instead of fruit. I sent home specimens + of this gossypium arboreum, which everywhere grows wild and which is + chiefly used for wicks. There is scant hope of cotton-culture amongst a + people whose industry barely suffices for ground-nuts. The stiff clay soil + everywhere showed traces of iron, and the guide pointed out a palm-tree + which had been split by the electric fluid, and a broad, deep furrow, + several feet long, ending in a hole. The Nzazhi (lightning) is as + dangerous and as much dreaded on these hills as in Uganda: the south-west + trade meets the land wind from the north-east; strata of clouds in + different states of electricity combine, says the popular theory, to + produce the thunder and lightning which accompany rain like the storms + upon the mountains of Yemen. After 30' (- 1.50 miles) we reached our + destination, Banza Chinguvu, the head-quarters of Gidi Mavunga. As we + entered it he pointed to a pot full of greasy stuff under a dwarf shed, + saying, "Isso è meu Deus:" it was in fact his Baka chya Mazinga. Beyond it + stood the temple of Nbambi; two suspended pieces of wood, cut in the shape + of horns, bore monkey skins on both sides of a dead armadillo, an animal + supposed to attract lightning when alive, and to repel it after death. + </p> + <p> + The Banza was beautifully situated on a dwarf platform, catching the full + force of the sea-breeze, and commanding to the north- west a picturesque + glimpse of the + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "waters rippling, flowing, + Flashing along the valley to the sea;" +</pre> + <p> + a mountain tarn representing the mighty stream. On the right lay fields, + dotted with papaw-trees, and plantations of maize and manioc, thur + (Cajanus), and sweet potatoes, a vegetable now common, but not noticed by + Tuckey; on the left, a deep ravine, densely forested with noble growth, + and supplying the best of water, divides it from Tadi ja Mfimo, a pile of + rock on the opposite hill-side; here lay the Itombo village, belonging to + Gidi Mavunga's eldest son. Beyond it, the tree-clad heights, rolling away + into the distance, faded from blue-brown to the faintest azure, hardly to + be distinguished from the empyrean above. The climate of these breezy + uplands is superior even to that of Banza Nokki, which lies some 170 feet + lower; and the nights are sensibly cooler. + </p> + <p> + A few fathoms of altitude here make a surprising difference. The little + valleys with their chalet-like huts reminded me of the Maroro and Kisanga + basins, in the sister formation, the East African Ghats, but now we have a + hill-climate without ague and fever. Our parallel is that of Yorukan + Abokuta, where the people are anti-oeci, both being about 6° distant from + the Line,— those north, these south. There the bush is fetid, and + the clammy air gives a sense of deadly depression; here the atmosphere is + pure, the land is open, and there is enjoyment in the mere sense of life. + The effete matter in the blood and the fatty degeneration of the muscles, + the results of inactivity, imperfect respiration, and F. Po, were soon + consumed by the pure oxygen of the highland air. I can attribute this + superiority of the Congo region only to the labours of an old civilization + now obsolete; none but a thick and energetic population could have cleared + off the forest, which at one time must have covered their mountains. + </p> + <p> + The Banza consists of about fifty cottages, which are being new- thatched + before the rains, and the population may number 300. Our host assigned to + us one of his own huts; it fronted west, and was a facsimile of that which + we had just left. The old fox, determined not to be "taken alive," has + provided his earth with three holes, opening to the north, to the east, + and to the west. We often detected him in the "ben," the matrimonial + sanctum, listening to private conversations which he could not understand. + Gidi Mavunga is decidedly a "serious person." The three walls round the + standing bedstead are hung with charms and amulets, like the sacred + pictures in country parts of Europe; and at the head is his "Mavunga," of + which Tuckey says (p. 180), "Each village has a grand kissey (nkisi), or + presiding divinity, named Mevonga:" it is an anthropoid log, about three + feet high, red, white, and black, the former colour predominating. Two + bits of looking-glass represent the eyes, the nose is patulous, as though + offended by evil savour; the upper lip is drawn up in disdain, the under + overlaps the chin; and a little mirror is inserted into the umbilical + region. Mavunga's dress is represented by an English billy-cock hat; while + all kinds of "medicines," calabashes, and a coarse knife depend from his + neck to his shoulders. The figures at the door are generally called + "Ngolowándá." + </p> + <p> + It is said, I believe, of the Englishwoman- + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "If she will, she will, you may depend on't; + If she won't, she won't, and there's an end on't." +</pre> + <p> + I may safely predicate the same of the negro, who owns, like the goose, a + "singularly inflexible organization." Whenever he can, he will, and he + must, have his head. Gidi Mavunga would not even break his fast before + touching the cloth and beads, which are to pay for guidance and carriage. + The hut-door was closed, and in half an hour all was settled to every + one's satisfaction. Yet the veteran did not disdain a little rascality. + Awaiting his opportunity, he tossed into a dark corner a little bundle of + two fancy cloths which I had given the "linguistero" and, when detected, + he shamelessly declared that such people have no right to trade. + </p> + <p> + Finally, our departure was settled for the next morning, and the women at + once began their preparations. Although they have sperm- candles, torches + are preferred for the road; odoriferous gums are made up, as in the + Gaboon, with rags or splints of bark; hence the old writers say, "instead + of putting wicks into the torches, they put torches into the wicks." The + travelling foods are mostly boiled batatas (sweet potatoes), Kwanga, a + hard and innutritious pudding-like preparation of cassava which the + "Expedition" (p. 197) calls "Coongo, a bitter root, that requires four + days' boiling to deprive it of its pernicious quality;" this is probably + the black or poisonous manioc. The national dish, "chindungwa," would test + the mouth of any curry-eater in the world: it is composed of boiled + ground-nuts and red peppers in equal proportions, pounded separately in + wooden mortars, mixed and squeezed to drain off the oil; the hard mass, + flavoured with salt or honey, will keep for weeks. The bees are not hived + in Congo-land, but smoked out of hollow trees: as in F. Po and Camarones + Peaks, they rarely sting, like the harmless Angelito of the Caraccas, + "silla," or saddleback; which Humboldt ("Personal Narrative," chap. xiii.) + describes as a "little hairy bee, a little smaller than the honey-bee of + the north of Europe." Captain Hall found the same near Tampico; and a + hive-full was sent to the blind but ingenious Francis Huber of Geneva, who + died in 1831. This seems to be the case with the busy hymenopter generally + in the highlands of Africa; the lowland swarms have been the terror of + travellers from Mungo Park's day to that of the first East African + Expedition. + </p> + <p> + About noon we were visited by the confidential slaves of a neighbouring + chief, who prospectively welcomed us to his territory. These men were + gaudily attired in cast-off clothes, and in the crimson night-caps + formerly affected by the English labourer: on the mountains, where the + helmet is confined to royalty, it is the head-dress used for state + occasions. They sat in the hut, chatting, laughing, and discussing palm + wine by the gallon, till they had their wicked will in the shape of a + bottle of gin; after this, they departed with many low congés. + </p> + <p> + It was a study to see Gidi Mavunga amidst the vassals and serfs of his own + village. He had no moated castle, no "Quinquengrogne;" but his habitation + was grander far,—that glorious hill-side, with all its prospects of + mountain and river, field and forest, valley and village. As he sat upon + the mat under his little piazza, all the dependants gathered in an outer + semicircle, the children, dogs, and cats forming an inner chord. A crowd + of "moleques" placed before him three black pots, one containing a savoury + stew, the others beans and vegetables, which he transferred to a deep + platter, and proved himself no mean trencherman. The earthenware is of + native make, by no means ornamental, but useful because it retains the + heat; it resembles the produce of the Gold Coast, and the "pepper-pot" + platter of the West Indies. His cup was filled as fast as he drained the + palm wine, and, at times, he passed a huge mouthful to a small son or + daughter, smiling at the serious and awkward attempts at deglutition. The + washing of hands and mouth before and after feeding shows progress after + Tuckey's day (p. 360). We were not asked to join him: an African, when + upon a journey, will beg for everything he sees you eat or drink, but + there is no return in kind. I have read of negro hospitality, but it has + never been my fate to witness an approach to that virtue. The chief will, + it is true, quarrel with you if his house be passed without a visit; but + his object in taking you in is to make all he can of you. If a purse be + pulled out, he waxes wroth, because he wishes to secure at once the + reputation of generosity and the profits of a present doubling the worth + of a regular "addition." When Gidi Mavunga rose from his meal, the elder + dependants took his place; the junior bipeds followed, and the remnants + were thrown to the quadrupeds. It was a fair copy in black of a baronial + and mediæval life. + </p> + <p> + The dogs were not neglected during the meal; but over-eagerness was + repressed by a stout truncheon lying handily near the old negro Jarl. The + animals are small and stunted, long-nosed and crooked-limbed, with curly + tails often cut, sharp ears which show that they have not lost the use of + the erecting muscles, and so far wild that they cannot bark. The colour is + either black and white or yellow and white, as in Stambul and India. + Overrun with ticks and foul with mange, they are too broken-spirited to + rob, except by secretly sneaking into the huts, and, however often beaten + off, they return to the charge like sitting hens. The people prize these + wretched tikes, because they are ever ready to worry a stranger, and are + useful in driving game from the bush. Yet they barbarously ill-treat them. + The hungry cats are as poor a breed as the pure English, and, though no + one feeds them, these domesticated tigerkins swarm. The only happy pets + are the parrots. Every village swarms with hogs, the filthy wealth of the + old Saxon proprietor, and their habits are disgusting as their forms are + obscene. Every Anglo-Indian will understand what I mean. + </p> + <p> + My memory of "Congo chop" is all in its favour: I can recommend it even to + "Fin Bee." The people of S'a Leone declare that your life is safe when you + can enjoy native food. Perhaps this means that, during the time required + to train the palate, strangers will have escaped their "seasoning" fevers + and chills. But foreigners will certainly fare better and, cæteris + paribus, outlive their brother whites, when they can substitute African + stews for the roast and boiled goat and cow, likest to donkey- meat, for + the waxy and insipid potato and for heavy pudding and tart, with which + their jaded stomach is laden, as if it had the digestion of north latitude + 50°. It is popularly believed that the Germans, who come from the land of + greatest extremes, live longer at the White Man's Grave than the English, + whereas the Spaniards are the most short-lived, one consul per annum being + the normal rate. Perhaps the greater "adaptability" of the Teuton explains + the cause. + </p> + <p> + The evening began with a game of ball in the large open space amongst the + houses forming the village square. The implement was a roll of palm-coir + tightly bound with the central fibre of the plantain-leaf. The players, + two parties of some twenty slaves, of all ages and sizes, mingled, each + side striving to catch the ball, and with many feints and antics to pass + it on to a friend. When it fell out of bounds, the juniors ran to pick it + up with frantic screams. It was interesting, as showing the difference + between the highlander and the lowlander; one might pass years on the + Congo plains without seeing so much voluntary exertion: yet a similar game + of ball is described by the Rev. Mr. Waddell ("Twenty-nine years in the + West Indies and Central Africa," chap. xvii. London, Nelsons, 1863). The + evening ended, as it often does before a march, when rest is required, + with extra hard work, a drinking bout deep as the Rhineland baron's in the + good old time, and a dance in which both sexes joined. As there were + neither torches nor moon, I did not attend; the singing, the shouting, and + the drumming, which lasted till midnight, spoke well for the agility and + endurance of the fair montagnardes. + </p> + <p> + What lightens Gidi Mavunga's steps is the immediate prospect of the + Munlola or preliminary showers, which, beginning in mid- September, last, + with a certain persistence of fall, till October. During the Munlola, the + sea-breeze is silent, and the sky is clad with a very thin mist, which, + however, supplies abundant downfalls. The year in the Lower Congo + corresponds with that of the Gaboon in practice, if not in theory, and the + storms are furious as those of Yoruba, where the seasons are, of course, + inverted, the great rains extending from May to August. The climate is + capricious, as everywhere about the equator, and the nearer the river the + heavier are the showers. The people double their lives by reckoning the + rains as one year, and the dries as another: when the old missionaries + wished to explain that the Saviour offered Himself for the sins of man at + the age of thirty- three, they said that he was sixty-six seasons old. + </p> + <p> + After the light rains of the autumnal equinox, come the Mvula za + Chintomba, the "Chuvas grandes" of the Portuguese, lasting to the end of + November. They are heavy, accompanied by violent tornadoes and storms, + greatly feared by the people. The moisture of the atmosphere, not being + gradually condensed by forests, must be precipitated in violent downfalls, + and this is perhaps the principal evil of clearing the country. December + begins the "little dries," which extend to February and March; then set in + the rains of the vernal equinox, with furious discharges of electricity; + June is the wettest month on the highlands, but not on the lower river. In + mid-July commence the "middle-dries," here called Ngondi Asivu (Tuckey's + "Gondy Assivoo"); upon the upper river this Cacimbo lasts between April + and September; when it passes over the bush is burned, and the women hoe + the ground to receive its seed. Carli well describes this season when he + says:- -"The winter of the kingdom of Congo is the mild spring or autumn + of Italy; it is not subject to rains, but every morning there falls a dew + which fertilizes the earth." This meteor was not observed on the highlands + of Banza Nokki and Nkulu; it is probably confined to the low country, + where I found it falling heavily. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIII. — The March to Banza Nkulu. + </h2> + <p> + But revelry at night brings morning headache, and we did not set out, as + agreed, at dawn. By slow degrees the grumbling, loitering party was + mustered. The chiefs were Gidi Mavunga, head guide, and his son Papagayo, + a dull quiet body; Chico Mpamba, "French landlord" of Banza Nokki, and my + interpreter Nchama Chamvu. Fourteen armed moleques carried our hammocks + and our little viaticum in the shape of four bottles of present-gin, two + costa- finas, (= twenty-four yards of fancy cotton), and fourteen fathoms + of satin-stripe, the latter a reserved fund. The boy "Lendo," whose + appropriate name means "The Go," bore a burden of his own size all day, + and acted as little foot-page at the halt. The "gentlemen" were in full + travelling costume. Slung by a thong to the chief guide's left shoulder + were a tiger-cat skin, cardamom-sheaths and birds' beaks and claws + clustering round a something in shape like the largest German sausage, the + whole ruddled with ochre: this charm must not be touched by the herd; a + slave-lad, having unwittingly offended, knelt down whilst the wearer + applied a dusty big toe between his eyebrows. Papagayo had a bag of + grass-cloth and bits of cane, from which protruded strips of leather and + scarlet broadcloth. + </p> + <p> + At 6.45 A.M. on Saturday, September 12, we exchanged the fields + surrounding Banza Chinguvu for a ridge or narrow plateau trending to the + north-east and bending to the magnetic north. A few minutes led to a + rock-slope, fit only for goat-hoofs or nude- footed natives. Winding along + the hill-sides, we passed out of the Nokki territory into that of Ntombo, + the property of Mfumo Nelongo: here we descended into a little vale or + gorge bright as verdure could make it— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "arborets and flowers + Imborder'd on each bank" +</pre> + <p> + of a bubbling brook, a true naiad of the hills, which ran to the embrace + of the mighty stream; it characteristically stained its bed with iron. On + our right was a conspicuous landmark, Zululu ke Sombe, a tall rock bearing + the semblance of an elephant from the north-east, visible from the Congo's + right bank and commanding a view of all the hills. Banza Vivi, our first + destination, perching high on the farther side of the blue depression, + bore due north. We then struck the roughest of descents, down broken + outcrops and chines of granite—no wonder that the women have such + grand legs. This led us into a dark green depression where lay Banza + Chinsavu, the abode of King Nelongo. Our course had been three miles to + the north-north-east. + </p> + <p> + Nothing can be more charming than the site, a small horseshoe valley, + formed by a Wady or Fiumara, upon whose raised left bank stands the + settlement, sheltered by palms, plantations, and wild figs. Eastward is a + slope of bare rock polished by the rain- torrents; westward rise the + grassy hills variegated with bush and boulder. We next crossed a rocky + divide to the north and found a second basin also fertilized by its own + stream; here the cactus and aloes, the vegetation of the desert, + contrasted with half-a- dozen shades of green, the banana, the sycamore, + the egg-plant, the sweet potato, the wild pepper, and the grass, whose + colours were paling, but not so rapidly as in the lower lands. + </p> + <p> + We dismounted in state from our tipoias at the verandah of an empty house, + where a chair had been placed; and we prepared for the usual delay and + display. The guides will not leave these villages unvisited lest a "war" + result; all the chiefs are cousins and one must not monopolize the + plunder. A great man takes an hour to dress, and Nelongo was evidently + soothing the toils of the toilette with a musical bellows called an + accordeon. He sent us some poor, well-watered Msámbá (palm toddy), and + presently he appeared, a fat, good-natured man, as usual, ridiculously + habited. He took the first opportunity of curtly saying in better + Portuguese than usual, "There is no more march to-day!" This was rather + too much for a somewhat testy traveller, when he changed his tone, begged + me not to embroil him with a powerful neighbour, and promised that we + should set out that evening. He at once sent for provisions, fowls, and a + small river-fish, sugar-cane, and a fine bunch of S. Thomé bananas. + </p> + <p> + About noon appeared Chico Furano, son of the late Chico de Ouro, in his + quality of "English linguister;" a low position to which want of "savvy" + has reduced him. His studies of our tongue are represented by an eternal + "Yes!" his wits by the negative; he boasts of knowing how to "tratar com o + branco" and, declining to bargain, he robs double. He is a short, small, + dark man with mountaineer legs, a frightful psora, and an inveterate habit + of drink. He saluted his superior, Nelongo, with immense ceremony, dating + probably from the palmy times of the Mwani-Congo. Equals squat before one + another, and shaking hands crosswise clap palms. Chico Furano kneels, + places both "ferients" upon the earth and touches his nose-tip; he then + traces three ground-crosses with the Jovian finger; again touches his + nose; beats his "volæ" on the dust, and draws them along the cheeks; then + he bends down, applying firstly the right, secondly the left face side, + and lastly the palms and dorsa of the hands to mother earth. Both superior + and inferior end with the Sakila or batta-palmas,<a href="#linknote-26" + name="linknoteref-26" id="linknoteref-26"><small>26</small></a> three + bouts of three claps in the best of time separated by the shortest of + pauses, and lastly a "tiger" of four claps. The ceremony is more elaborate + than the "wallowings" and dust- shovellings described by Ibn Batuta at the + Asiatic courts, by Jobson at Tenda,by Chapperton at Oyo,by Denham amongst + the Mesgows, and by travellers to Dahome and to the Cazembe. Yet the + system is virtually the same in these distant kingdoms, which do not know + one another's names. + </p> + <p> + Chico Furano brought a Mundongo slave, a fine specimen of humanity, some + six feet high, weighing perhaps thirteen stone, all bone and muscle, + willing and hard-working, looking upon the Congo men as if they were women + or children. He spoke a few words of Portuguese, and with the master's + assistance I was able to catechize him. He did not deny that his people + were "papagentes," but he declared that they confined the practice to + slain enemies. He told a number of classical tales about double men, + attached, not like the Siamese twins, but dos-à-dos; of tribes whose feet + acted as parasols, the Plinian Sciapodæ and the Persian Tasmeh- pa, and of + mermen who live and sleep in the inner waters—I also heard this from + M. Parrot, a palpable believer. He described his journey down the great + river, and declared that beyond his country's frontier the Nzadi issues + from a lake which he described as having a sea-horizon, where canoes lose + sight of land, and where they are in danger from violent storms; he + described the latter with great animation, and his descriptions much + reminded me of Dibbie, the "Dark Lake." Probably this was genuine + geography, although he could not tell the name of the inner sea, the + Achelunda of old cosmographers. Tuckey's map also lays down in N. lat. 2° + to 3° and in E. long. (G.) 17° to 18° a great swamp draining to the south; + and his "Narrative" (p. 178) tells us that some thirty days above Banza + Mavunda, which is 20 to 24 miles above the Yellala, "the river issues by + many small streams from a great marsh or lake of mud." This would suggest + a reservoir alternately flooded and shrinking; possibly lacustrine bays + and the bulges formed by the middle course of the Lualaba. + </p> + <p> + Despite the promise, we were delayed by King Nekorado, whose town, + Palabala, lies at some distance, and who, negro-like, will consult only + his own convenience. In the afternoon we were visited by a royal son, who + announced that his royal father feared the heat, but would appear with the + moon, which was equivalent to saying that we might expect him on the + morrow. He is known to be a gueux, and Gidi Mavunga boasts of having + harried and burned sundry of his villages, so he must make up by + appearance for deficient reality. His appearance was announced by the + Mpungi, the Egyptian Zagharit, the Persian Kil; this "lullilooing" in the + bush country becomes an odd moaning howl like the hyaena's laugh. Runners + and criers preceded the hammock, which he had probably mounted at the + first field; a pet slave carried his chair, covered with crimson cloth, + and Frédérique his "linguister" paced proudly by its side. + </p> + <p> + After robing himself in Nelongo's house, King Nekorado held a levee under + the shadiest fig, which acted bentang-tree; all the moleques squatting in + a demi-lune before the presence. A short black man, with the round eyes, + the button-like nose, the fat circular face, and the weakly vanishing chin + which denote the lower type of Congoese, he coldly extended a chimpanzee's + paw without rising or raising his eyes, in token that nothing around him + deserved a glance. I made him au-fait as to my intentions, produced, as + "mata-bicho," a bottle of gin, and sent a dash of costa-fina, to which a + few yards of satin-stripe were thrown in. + </p> + <p> + The gin was drunk with the usual greed, and the presents were received + with the normal objections. + </p> + <p> + "Why should not I, a king like Nessudikira, receive a ‘dash' equal to + his?" + </p> + <p> + "He is my host, I pay him for bed and board!" + </p> + <p> + "We are all cousins; why shall one be treated better than the other?" + </p> + <p> + "As you please! you have received your due, and to-day we march." + </p> + <p> + After this I rose and returned to my hut ready for the inevitable "row." + </p> + <p> + It was not long coming; the new arrivals set up the war-song, and Gidi + Mavunga thought it time to make a demonstration. Drawing an old cutlass + and bending almost double, he began to rush about, slashing and cutting + down imaginary foes, whilst his men looked to their guns. The greenhorn + would have expected a regular stand- up fight, ending in half-a-dozen + deaths, but the Papagayo snatched away his father's rusty blade, and Chico + Furano, seizing the warrior's head, despite the mildest of resistance, + bent it almost to the ground. Thus valour succumbed to numbers. "He is a + great man," whispered my interpreter, "and if they chaunt their + battle-song, he must show them his bravery." The truly characteristic + scene ended in our being supplied with some fourteen black pots full of + flesh, fowl, beans, and manioc, together with an abundance of plantains + and sugar-cane; a select dish was "put in fetish" (set aside) for Gidi + Mavunga, and the friendly foes all sat down to feast. The querelle + d'Allemand ended with a general but vain petition for "t'other bottle." + </p> + <p> + Fahrenheit showed 90° in the shade, as we bade adieu to the little + land-bay, and made for the high rugged wall to the north- north-east + separating the river valley from the inner country. On the summit we + halted to enjoy the delicious sea-breeze with its ascending curve, and the + delightful prospect far below. Some 1,300 feet beneath us appeared the + Nzadi, narrowed to a torrent, and rushing violently down its highly + inclined bed, a straight reach running east and west, in length from four + and a half to five miles. As we fronted north, the Morro (cliff) Kala fell + bluff towards its blue bight, the Mayumba Bay of the chart, on our left; + to the right a black gate formed by twin cliffs shut out the upper stream + from view. The panorama of hill-fold and projection, each bounded by deep + green lines, which argued torrents during the rains; the graceful slopes + sinking towards the river and indenting the bed and the little tree-clad + isle, Zun gáchyá Idí (Tuckey's "Zunga Tooly Calavangoo") hugging the + northern side, where the Lufu torrent adds its tribute to the waters, + convinced me that the charms of Congo scenery had not been exaggerated. + Yet the prospect had its element of sadness; the old ruffian, Gidi + Mavunga, recounted how he had burned this place and broken that, where + palm-clumps, grass-clearings, and plantations lying waste denoted the + curse of Ham upon the land. + </p> + <p> + Our course now wound north-eastwards along hill-shoulders, rich in flowery + plants and scented mimosa. After two hours' walking, we came suddenly upon + the Morro or cliff of the river-trough, now about 1,000 feet deep. Here + the prospect again shifted; the black gate opened, showing the lowest of + the long line of rapids called Borongwa ya Vivi, with the natives and + their canoes, like flies upon bits of straw. + </p> + <p> + On the southern bank was a small perennial influent, lined with bright + green above, and with chocolate brown below, within some twenty yards of + its mouth. It arises, they say, near S. Salvador, and is not navigable, + although in places it bears canoes. The people call it Npozo, possibly it + represents the S. Salvador River of old travellers. The distance was three + direct or five indirect miles north of the stony cone, Zululu ke Sombe. + </p> + <p> + The descent was a malevoie, over slabs and boulders, loose stones and + clayey ground, slippery as ice after rain. The moleques descended like + chamois within twenty minutes: Selim and I, with booted feet, took double + the time, but on return we ascended it in forty-five minutes. Viewed from + below, the base rests upon cliffs of gneiss, with debris and quartz in + masses, bands and pebbles, pure and impure, white and rusty. Upon it rises + a stratum of ferruginous clay, with large hard-heads of granite, gneiss, + and schist, blocks of conglomerate, and nodules of ironstone. Higher still + is the bank of yellow clay, capped with shallow humus. The waving profile + is backed by steep hills, with rocky sides and long ridges of ground, the + site of the palm- hidden Banzas. + </p> + <p> + Reaching the base, a heap of tumbled boulders, we crossed in a canoe the + mouth of the Npozo to a sandy cove in the southern bank, the terminus of + river navigation. The people called it Unyenge Assiku: I cannot but + suspect that this is the place where Tuckey left his boats, and which he + terms "Nomaza Cove." The name is quite unknown, and suggests that the + interpreters tried to explain by "No majia" (water) that here the voyage + must end. + </p> + <p> + Off this baylet are three rocky islets, disposed in a triangle, slabs + collected by a broken reef, and collectively known as Zunga Nuapozo; the + clear-way is between them and the southern bank, which is partly provided + with a backwater; the northern three quarters of the bed show something + like a scour and a rapid. Zunga chya Ingololo, the northernmost and + smallest, bears a single tree, and projects a bar far into the stream: the + central and westernmost is a rock with a canoe passage between it and the + southern and largest, Zunga chya Tuvi. The latter has three tree- clumps; + and a patch of clean white sand on its western side measures the daily + rise of the water, eight inches to a foot, and shows the highest level of + the flood, here twelve to thirteen feet. The fishermen use it as a + drying-ground for their game. They also crowd every day to two sandy + covelets on the southern bank, separated by a tongue of rough boulders. + Here naked urchins look on whilst their fathers work, or aid in drying the + nets, or lie prone upon the sand, exposing their backs to the broiling + sun. The other denizens of the place are fish-eagles, who sit en faction + upon the topmost branches of withered trees. I saw only two kinds of fish, + one small as a minnow, and the other approaching the size of a herring. Up + stream they are said to be much larger. They are not salted, but smoked or + sun-dried when the weather serves: stuffed with chillies and fried with + oil, they are good eating as the Kinnam of the Gold Coast. + </p> + <p> + We prepared to bivouac under a fine shady Saffu, or wild fig, a low, thick + trunk whose dark foliage, fleshy as the lime-leaf, so often hangs its + tresses over the river, and whose red berries may feed man as well as + monkey. The yellow flowers of hypericum, blooming around us, made me + gratefully savour our escape from mangrove and pandamus. About sunset a + gentle shower, the first of the season, caused the fisher-boys to dance + with joy; it lasted two good hours, and then it was dispersed by a strong + westerly breeze. Canoes and lights flashed before our eyes during half the + night; and wild beasts, answering one another from rock to rock, hundreds + of feet above us, added a savage, African feature to the goodly + mise-en-scène. + </p> + <p> + Arising early next morning, I was assured that it is necessary to cross + the stream in order to reach the Cataracts. Tuckey did so, but further + inquiry convinced me that it is a mistake to march along the northern + bank. Of course, in skirting the southern side, we should not have + approached so near the stream, where bluffs and débris rendered travelling + hopeless. The amiable ichthyophagi agreed for two fathoms of fancy cloth + to ferry us across the river, which is here half a mile broad. The + six-knot current compels canoes to run up the left shore by means of its + backwater, and, when crossing, to make allowance for the drift downwards. + The aneroid now showed 860 feet of absolute altitude, and about sixty-five + feet above the landing-place of Banza Nokki; the distance along the stream + is fourteen miles, and thus the fall will be about five feet per mile + below the Borongwa ya Vivi. We could see from a level the "smaller rapids + of Vivi" bursting through their black gate with angry foam, flashing white + from side to side. No canoe could shoot this "Cachoeira," but I do not + think that a Nile Dahabiyah or a Brazilian Ajôjô would find great + difficulty. Between us and the rapids, the concavity of the southern bank + forms a bight or bay. The vortices, in which Tuckey's sloop was whirled + round despite oars and sails, and in whose hollow the punt entirely + disappeared, "so that the depression must have been three or four feet + deep," were nowhere seen at this fuller season. The aspect of the surface + is that of every large deep stream with broken bottom; the water boils up + in ever widening domes, as though a system of fountains sprang from below. + Each centre is apparently higher than its circle; it spreads as if a rock + had been thrown into it, and the outer rim throws off little eddies and + whirls no larger than a thimble. The mirrory surface of the lower river + thus becomes mottled with light and shade, and the reflected image of the + trough-cliff is broken into the most fantastic shapes. + </p> + <p> + Fifteen minutes of hard paddling landed us at Selele, a stony point + between two sandy baylets: amongst the mass of angular boulders a tree + again showed the highest flood-mark to be 13 feet. Here for the first time + I remarked the black glaze concerning which so much has been written.<a + href="#linknote-28" name="linknoteref-28" id="linknoteref-28"><small>28</small></a> + The colour is a sunburnt black, tinted ferruginous red like meteoric + stones, and it is generally friable, crumbling under the nails. It tastes + strongly of iron, which flavours almost every spring in the country, yet + the most likely places do not show this incrustation. Sometimes it looks + like a matrix in which pudding- stone has been imbedded; it may be two or + three lines in thickness and it does not colour the inside. At other times + it hardly measures the thickness of paper, coating the gneiss slabs like + plumbago. Humboldt tells us ("Personal Narrative," ii. 243, Bohn), that + the "Indians" of the Atures declare the rocks to be burnt (carbonized) by + the sun's rays, and I have often found the same black glaze upon the marly + sandstones that alternate with calcareous formations where no stream ever + reached them—for instance, on the highlands of Judea, between + Jerusalem and the Dead Sea; in inner Istria, and in most countries upon + the borders of the Mediterranean. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Selele, we ascended a steep hill with many glissadès, the effect + of last night's rain. These hammock-journeys are mostly equivalent to + walking and paying for carriage; it would be cruelty to animals were one + to ride except when entering the villages. After threading for half an + hour lanes of grass, we were received in a little village of the Banza + Vivi district by Nessala, linguistère to King Luvungungwete. The guest + room was furnished with every luxury; hides of a fine antelope described + as the Kudu; cruets, basins, bottles, and other vases; "lustre mugs," John + Andersons and Toby Philpots. A good calabash, full of + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Freshening wine + More bounteous far than all the frantic juice + Which Bacchus pours," +</pre> + <p> + was produced, although the drought and scarcity of June rain had dried the + palms. Before I outstretched myself, the fairer half of the population + sent a message to say that they had never seen a white man: what less + could be done than to distribute a few beads and pat the children, who + screamed like sucking pigs and "squirmed" like young monkeys? + </p> + <p> + The Chrononhotonthologus of a king came in the afternoon with a tail of a + hundred vertebræ: he was a milder specimen than usual; he had neither + Mambrino's helmet nor beadle's cloak, and perhaps his bashfulness in the + presence of strangers arose from a consciousness that his head-gear and + robes were not in keeping with his station. But he did not fail to grumble + at his "dash;" indeed, he must be more than African who shall say, "Hold! + enough." He vouchsafed a small return in fowls and "beneficent manioc," + and sent with us three slaves, to serve, not as guides, but as a basis for + a separate charge. + </p> + <p> + After sunset all was made ready for the Batuque. The ball-room was the + village square; the decorations were the dense trees; the orchestra + consisted of two drums, a grande caisse eight feet and a half long, placed + horizontally, and a smaller specimen standing on a foot like that of an + old-fashioned champagne-glass; the broader ends were covered with deer + skins, upon which both hands perform; and the illuminations were flaming + heaps of straw, which, when exhausted, were replaced by ground-nuts + spitted upon a bamboo splint. This contrivance is far simpler than a dip- + candle, the arachis is broken off as it chars, and, when the lamp dims, + turning it upside down causes a fresh flow of oil. The ruder sex occupied + one half of the ring, and the rest was appropriated to dame and damsel. + The Batuque is said to be the original Cachucha; Barbot calls it a danse + des filoux, and it has the merit of perfectly expressing, as Captain + Cook's companions remarked of the performances in the South Sea Islands, + what it means. + </p> + <p> + The hero of the night was Chico Mpamba; he must have caused a jealous pang + to shoot through many a masculine bosom. With bending waist, arms + gracefully extended forwards, and fingers snapping louder than castanets; + with the upper half of the body fixed as to a stake, and with the lower + convulsive as a scotched snake, he advanced and retired by a complicated + shuffle, keeping time with the tom-tom and jingling his brass anklets, + which weighed at least three pounds, and which, by the by, lamed him for + several days. But he was heroic as the singer who broke his collar-bone by + the ut di petto. A peculiar accompaniment was a dulcet whistle with lips + protruded; hence probably the fable of Pliny's Astomoi, and the Africans + of Eudoxus, whose joined lips compelled them to eat a single grain at a + time, and to drink through a cane before sherry-cobblers were known. + Others joined him, dancing either vis-à-vis or by his side; and more than + one girl, who could no longer endure being a wall-flower, glided into the + ring and was received with a roar of applause. In the feminine performance + the eyes are timidly bent upon the ground; the steps are shorter and + daintier, and the ritrosa appears at once to shun and to entice her + cavalier, who, thus repulsed and attracted, redoubles the exciting measure + till the delight of the spectators knows no bounds. Old Gidi Mavunga + flings off his upper garment, and with the fire of a youth of twenty + enters the circle, where his performance is looked upon with respect, if + not with admiration. Wilder and wilder waxeth the "Devil's delight," till + even the bystanders, especially the women, though they keep their places + in the outer circle, cannot restrain that wonderful movement of haunch and + flank. I laughed till midnight, and left the dancers dancing still. + </p> + <p> + At 5 A.M. the strayed revellers found to their disgust a thick fog, or + rather a thin drizzle, damping grass and path, and suggesting anything but + a pleasant trudge. They declared that starvation awaited us, as the "fancy + cloths" were at an end, but I stopped that objection by a reference to the + reserved fund. After an hour of sulky talk we set out towards the upper + part of Banza Vivi, passing a small but pretty hill plain, with manioc- + fields, gum-trees, and the bombax very symmetrical. We saw no animals: + here and there appeared the trail of a hyaena, the only larger carnivor + that now haunts the mountains. The song of Mkuka Mpela, the wild pigeon, + and Fungú, the cuckoo, were loud in the brake: the Abbé Proyart makes the + male cuculus chant his coo, coo, coo; mounting one note above another with + as much precision as a musician would sound his ut, re, mi: when he + reached the third note, his mate takes it up and ascends to the octave. + After this both recommence the same song. + </p> + <p> + The stiff ascent gave us lovely views of the lake-like river and both its + banks: after three quarters of an hour we reached Vivi of Banza Simbo. The + people vainly called to us, "Wiza!"— "Come thou!" and "Luiza! luiza + kwenu!"— "Come, come here!" Our moleques, disliking the dangerous + proximity, advanced at a walk which might be called a canter. + </p> + <p> + Presently we reached the dividing ridge, 1,394 feet high, between Banza + Vivi and Nkulu, whose palm-trees, thrown out against the sky, bore 82° + (M.) Looking to the north with easting, we had a view of no less than six + distinct distances. The actual foreground, a hollow between two + land-waves, could not conceal the "Crocodile's Head:" the latter, five + miles off and bearing 65° (M.), forms the southern staple of the Yellala + Gate, whose rapids were not visible, and it fronts the Quoin, which hems + in the stream on the other side. The key-stone of the inverted arch + between them was a yellow-flanked, tree-topped hill, rising immediately + above the great rapids: beyond if waved, in far succession, three several + swells of ground, each flatter and bluer than its nearer neighbour, and + capping the whole stood Kongo de Lemba, a tall solitary sugarloaf, bearing + 75° (M.), with its outlying conelets concealing like a mass of smoke the + world that lay beyond. + </p> + <p> + The ridges appeared to trend north and south, and to approach the river's + bending bed at different angles; their sides were steep, and in places + scarped where they fell into the intervening hollows. The valleys + conducted many a water to the main drain, and during the wet season they + must be well-nigh impassable. At the end of the dries the only green is in + the hill-folds and the basin-sinks, where the trees muster strong enough + to defend themselves from the destructive annual fires. These + bush-burnings have effectually disforested the land, and in some places + building timber and even fuel have become scarce. In the Abrus, barely two + feet high, I could hardly recognize the tall tree of Eastern Africa, + except by its scarlet "carats," which here the people disdain to use as + beads. The scorching of the leaves stunts the shrubs, thickens the bark, + and makes the growth scrubby, so that the labourer has nothing to do but + to clear away the grass: I afterwards remarked the same effects on the + Brazilian Campos. + </p> + <p> + We descended the dividing ridge, which is also painfully steep, especially + near the foot, and crossed the rolling hollow with its three chalybeate + brooks, beyond which lay our destination. Tuckey describes the hills + between Boma and Nkulu as stony and barren, which is perhaps a little too + strong. The dark red clay soil, dried almost to the consistency of + laterite, cannot be loosened by rain or sun, and in places it is hardened + like that of Brazilian Porto Seguro, where the people complain that they + cannot bury their dead. All the uplands, however, grow grass which is + sometimes ten to twelve feet tall, and in places there are shrubs and + trees. About Nkulu the highlands are rightly described as "steep hills of + quartz, ferruginous earth, and syenite with fertile tops:" rocks and + stones are rare upon the plateaux: they are rich enough to produce + everything from wheat to coffee, and hardly a hundredth part is + cultivated. Thin and almost transparent lines of palms denote the several + Banzas on the ridges, and in the valley are rock circles like magnified + and prostrated Stonehenges. + </p> + <p> + The "termes arborum" is universal, and anthills form a prominent feature. + It has been remarked that these buildings are the most conspicuous + architectural efforts of the country, and the Abbé Proyart observes that + here more effectually than in any other land man ought to be sent to the + ant school. The material is of dark and sometimes black earth as in the + Gaboon, and the shape is the umbrella, rarely double or pagoda-roofed. The + column may be twelve to eighteen inches high, and the diameter of the + capital attains two feet: I never saw, however, a "gigantic toadstool as + high as a one-storied house." Nor are the mushroom tops now + used as chafing-dishes. + </p> + <p> + The grateful tamarind grows everywhere, but nowhere so gloriously as on + the lower elevations. The only true sycomores which I saw were stunted + specimens near the Yellala. They contrasted poorly with the growth of the + Ugogi Dhun, a noble patriarch, whose circle of shade under a vertical sun + was 500 feet, and which I thought worthy of a portrait in "Lake Regions of + Central Africa" (p. 195, vol. i.). I need hardly warn the reader that, + properly speaking, it is the "Sycamine which produces the fruit called + Syconwrus or fig-mulberry;" but we apply the term "Sycomore" to the tree + as well as to its fruit. + </p> + <p> + After three hours of actual marching (= seven miles) in an east- + north-easterly direction, we ascended a path greasy with drizzle, + parquetted by negro feet and infested with "drivers," which now became + troublesome. It led to Banza Nkulu, a shabby settlement of unclean + plantations and ragged huts of far inferior construction: stacks of grass + were piled upon the ground, and this new thatch was greatly wanted. Here + the lands of the "bush-men" begin: instead of marching directly to the + chief's house, we sat in our wet clothes under a friendly wild fig. The + women flocked out at the cry of the hammock-bearers and, nursing their + babies, sat down to the enjoyment of a stare; they had lost, however, the + merriment of their more civilized sisters, and they hardly ever vouchsafed + a laugh or a smile. The curiosity of the "Zinkomba" knew no bounds; all + were unusually agitated by the aspect of a man coloured like themselves; + they jerked out their leafy crinolines by forward movements of the lower + body, swayed violently from side to side, and cried "Ha-rr-rr-rr-rr!" and + "Jojolo! jojolo!" till they were hoarse. As usual, the adults would not + allow me to approach them, and I was obliged to rest contented with + sketching their absurdities. To punish this daring, the Jinkomba brought a + man masked like a white, with beard and whiskers, who is supposed to + strike the stranger with awe: it was all in vain, I had learned to trill + the R as roundly as themselves, and they presently left me as a "perdido," + an incorrigible. + </p> + <p> + In the days of the Expedition, Nkulu had but one ruler, of whom Tuckey + says (p. 148), that he found less pomp and noise, but much more civility + and hospitality than from the richer kings he had visited. Now there are + three who require their "dashes," and each has his linguister, who must + not be passed by without notice. Moreover, as population and luxury have + increased on the line of route, bark-cloth has disappeared and even the + slaves are dressed in cottons. We waited, patiently hungry, till 4 P.M. + because the interpreters had gone on some "fish palaver" to the river. At + that hour a procession of some two hundred and fifty men headed by a drum + and Chingufu (cymbal-bells) defiled before us, crowding round three + umbrellas, trade-articles in the last stage of "seediness." These comforts + protected from the sun, which was deep hid behind a purple nimbus, an + equal number of great men in absurd red nightcaps or old felt wideawakes, + shirts of coloured cotton, and second-hand waistcoats of silk or satin. + The only signs of luxury were here and there a well-carved ebony stick, + and a gunstock resplendent with brass tacks. All sat down in a semi-circle + before us, six or seven deep in front and four or five at the sides: the + women and children took their places in the rear, and one of them fondled + a prick-eared cur with an attempt at a ribbon round its neck. + </p> + <p> + The head linguister, who, like "Persian interpreters" to commanders in + chief of India during my clay, could not speak a word of any language but + his own, after clapping hands, congratulated us in the name of the great + king Nekulu; he lives, it appears, in a Banza at some distance to the + north or north- east, out of sight of the river, and he cannot be visited + without great outlay of gunpowder and strong waters. We returned + compliments, and after the usual complications we came to the main point, + the "dash." I had privily kept a piece of satin- stripe, and this was + produced as the very last of our viaticum. The interpreter, having been + assured that we had nothing else to give, retired with his posse to + debate; whilst we derided the wild manners of these "bush-folk," who + feared to shake hands with us. After an hour or so the council returned, + clapped palms, sat clown, grumbled at the gift and gave formal leave to + see the Yellala—how the word now jarred in my ears after its + abominable repetition! Had these men been told a month before that a white + would have paid for permission to visit what they considered common + property, they would have refused belief: with characteristic readiness, + however, the moment they saw an opportunity of "making money," they + treated the novelty as a matter of course. + </p> + <p> + This palaver settled, the chiefs danced within a ring formed by their + retainers; the speeches were all sung, not spoken; and obeisances and + dustings of elaborate complexity concluded the eventful meeting, which + broke up as it began with drum and Chingufu. There was not a symptom of + hospitality; we had preserved some provaunt from our last station, or we + should have been famished. My escort forgot their disappointments in a + "ball," which lasted through the cool, clear and dewy night till nearly + dawn. It is evidently a happy temperament which can dance off hunger and + fatigue. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIV. — The Yellala of the Congo. + </h2> + <p> + At dawn (September 16), I began the short march leading to the Yellala.<a + href="#linknote-29" name="linknoteref-29" id="linknoteref-29"><small>29</small></a> + By stepping a few paces south of Nkulu, we had a fine view of the Borongwa + ya Vivi, the lowest rapids, whose foaming slope contrasted well with the + broad, smooth basin beyond. Palabala, the village of Nekorado on the other + side of the stream, bore south (Mag.), still serving as a landmark; and in + this direction the ridges were crowned with palm orchards and settlements. + But the great Yellala was hidden by the hill- shoulder. + </p> + <p> + We at once fell into a descent of some 890 feet, which occupied an hour. + The ground was red iron-clay, greasy and slippery; dew- dripping grass, + twelve to fifteen feet tall, lined the path; the surface was studded with + dark ant-hills of the mushroom shape; short sycomores appeared, and + presently we came to rough gradients of stone, which severely tried the + "jarrets." After an hour, we crossed at the trough-foot a brook of pure + water, which, uniting with two others, turns to the north-east, and, + tumbling over a little ledge, discharges itself into the main drain. An + ascent then led over a rounded hill with level summit, and precipitous + face all steps and drops of rock, some of them six and seven feet high, + opposed to the stream. Another half hour, and a descent of 127 feet placed + us under a stunted calabash, 100 feet above the water, and commanding a + full view of the Yellala. + </p> + <p> + On the whole, the impression was favourable. Old Shimbah, the Linguister + at Porto da Lenha, and other natives had assured me that the Cataracts + were taller than the tallest trees. On the other hand, the plain and + unadorned narrative of the "Expedition" had prepared me for a second-rate + stream bubbling over a strong bed. The river here sweeps round from the + north-west, and bends with a sharp elbow first to the south-west and then + to the south- east, the length of the latter reach being between four and + five miles. As far as the eye can see, the bed, which narrows from 900 to + 400 and 500 yards, is broken by rocks and reefs. A gate at the upper end + pours over its lintel a clear but dwarf fall, perhaps two feet high. The + eastern staple rises at first sheer from the water's edge to the estimated + altitude of a thousand feet,—this is the "Crocodile's Head" which we + saw on the last march, and already the thin rains are robing its rocky + surface with tender green. The strata are disposed at angles, varying from + 35° to 45°, and three streaks of bright trees denote Fiumaras about to be + filled. Opposite it is the "Quoin Hill," bluff to the stream, and falling + west with gradual incline. The noise of this higher fall can hardly be + heard at Nkulu, except on the stillest nights. + </p> + <p> + Below the upper gate, the bed, now narrowing to 300 yards, shows the great + Yellala; the waters, after breaking into waves for a mile and a half + above, rush down an inclined plane of some thirty feet in 300 yards, + spuming, colliding and throwing up foam, which looks dingy white against + the dull yellow-brown of the less disturbed channel—the movement is + that of waves dashing upon a pier. The bed is broken by the Zunga chya + Malemba, which some pronounced Sanga chya Malemba, an oval islet in + mid-stream, whose greater diameter is disposed along the axis of the bed. + The north-western apex, raised about fifty feet above the present level of + the waters, shows a little bay of pure sand, the detritus of its rocks, + with a flood-mark fifteen feet high, whilst the opposite side bears a few + wind-wrung trees. The materials are gneiss and schist, banded with quartz—Tuckey's + great masses of slate. This is the "Terrapin" of the Nzadi. The eastern + fork, about 150 yards broad, is a mountain-torrent, coursing unobstructed + down its sandy trough, and, viewed from an eminence, the waters of the + mid-channel appear convex, a shallow section of a cylinder,—it is a + familiar shape well marked upon the St. Lawrence Rapids. The western half + is traversed by a reef, connecting the islets with the right bank. During + August, this branch was found almost dry; in mid-September, it was nearly + full, and here the water breaks with the greatest violence. The right bank + is subtended for some hundred yards by blocks of granite and greenstone, + pitted with large basins and pot-holes, delicately rounded, turned as with + a lathe by the turbid waters. The people declare that this greenstone + contains copper, and Professor Smith found particles in his specimens. The + Portuguese agents, to whom the natives carefully submit everything + curious, doubt the fact, as well as all reports of gold; yet there is no + reason why the latter should not be found. + </p> + <p> + The current whirls and winds through its tortuous channels, which are like + castings of metal, in many distinct flows; some places are almost + stagnant, suggesting passages for canoes. Here the fishermen have planted + their weirs; some are wading in the pools, others are drying their nets + upon the stony ledges. During the floods, however, this cheval-de-frise of + boulders must all be under water, and probably impassable. Tuckey supposes + that the inundation must produce a spectacle which justifies the high- + flown description of the people. I should imagine the reverse to be the + case; and Dr. Livingstone justly remarked <a href="#linknote-30" + name="linknoteref-30" id="linknoteref-30"><small>30</small></a> that, when + the river was full, the Yellala rapids would become comparatively smooth, + as he had found those of the Zambeze; and that therefore a voyage + pittoresque up the Congo should be made at that season. + </p> + <p> + Before leaving the Yellala, I wandered along the right bank, and found a + cliff, whose overhanging brow formed a fine cavern; it remarkably + resembled the Martianez Fountain under the rock near the beautiful Puerto + de Orotava. Here the fishermen were disporting themselves, and cooking + their game, which they willingly exchanged for beads. All were of the + Silurus family, varying from a few inches to two feet. Fish-eagles sat + upon the ledges overhanging the stream, and a flight of large cranes + wheeled majestically in the upper air: according to the people, they are + always to be seen at the Yellalas. + </p> + <p> + The extent of a few hundred feet afforded a good bird's eye view of the + scene. The old river-valley, shown by the scarp of the rocks, must have + presented gigantic features, and the height of the trough-walls, at least + a thousand feet, gives the Yellala a certain beauty and grandeur. The site + is apparently the highest axis of the dividing ridge separating the + maritime lowlands from the inner plateau. Looking eastward the land + smoothens, the dorsa fall more gently towards the counter-slope, and there + are none of the "Morros" which we have traversed. + </p> + <p> + With the members of the Congo Expedition, I was somewhat startled by the + contrast between the apparently shrunken volume of waters and the vast + breadth of the lower river; hence Professor Smith's theory of underground + caverns and communications, in fact of a subterraneous river, a favourite + hobby in those days. But there is not a trace of limestone formation + around, nor is there the hollow echo which inevitably would result from + such a tunnel. Evidently the difference is to be accounted for by the + rapidity of the torrent, the effect of abnormal slope deceiving the eye. + At the Mosî-wa-tunya Falls the gigantic Zambeze, from a breadth of a + thousand yards suddenly plunges into a trough only forty- five to sixty + feet wide: the same is the case with the Brazilian São Francisco, which, a + mile wide above the Cachoeira de Paulo Affonso, is choked to a minimum + breadth of fifty-one feet. At the Pongo (narrows) de Manseriche also, the + Amazonas, "already a noble river, is contracted at its narrowest part to a + width of only twenty-five toises, bounded on each margin by lofty + perpendicular cliffs, at the end of which the Andes are fairly passed, and + the river emerges on the great plain."<a href="#linknote-31" + name="linknoteref-31" id="linknoteref-31"><small>31</small></a> Thus the + Yellala belongs to the class of obstructed rapids like those of the Nile, + compared with the unobstructed, of which a fine specimen is the St. + Lawrence. It reminded me strongly of the Búsa (Boussa) described by + Richard Lander, where the breadth of the Niger is reduced to a + stone-throw, and the stream is broken by black rugged rocks arising from + mid-channel. It is probably a less marked feature than the Congo, for in + June, after the "Malka" or fourteen days of incessant rain, the author + speaks of whirlpools, not of a regular break. + </p> + <p> + I thus make the distance of the Yellala from the mouth between 116 and 117 + miles and the total fall 390 feet, of which about one half (195) occurs in + the sixty-four miles between Boma and the Yellala: of this figure again + 100 feet belong to the section of five miles between the Vivi and the + Great Rapids. The Zambeze, according to Dr. Livingstone ("First + Expedition," p. 284), has a steeper declivity than some other great + rivers, reaching even 7 inches per mile. With 3 to 4 inches, the Ganges, + the Amazonas, and the Mississippi flow at the rate of three knots an hour + in the lowest season and five or six during the flood: what, then, may be + expected from the Nzadi? + </p> + <p> + According to the people, beyond the small upper fall where projections + shut out the view, the channel smoothens for a short space and carries + canoes. Native travellers from Nkulu usually take the mountain-path + cutting across an easterly bend of the bed to Banza Menzi, the Manzy of + Tuckey's text and the Menzi Macooloo of his map. It is situated on a level + platform 9 miles north of Nkulu, and they find the stream still violent. + The second march is to Banza Ninga, by the First Expedition called "Inga," + an indirect line of five hours = 15 miles. The third, of about the same + distance, makes Banza Mavunda where, 20 to 24 miles above the Yellala, + Tuckey found the river once more navigable, clear in the middle and + flowing at the rate of two miles an hour—a retardation evidently + caused by the rapids beyond: I have remarked this effect in the Brazilian + "Cachoeiras."<a href="#linknote-32" name="linknoteref-32" + id="linknoteref-32"><small>32</small></a> Above it the Nzadi widens, and + canoeing is practicable with portages at the two Sangallas. The southern + feature, double like the Yellala, shows an upper and a lower break, + separated by two miles, the rapids being formed as usual by sunken ledges + of rock. Two days' paddling lead to the northern or highest Sangalla, + which obstructs the stream for 22 miles: Tuckey (p. 184) makes his Songo + Sangalla contain three rapids; Prof. Smith, whose topography is painfully + vague, doubles the number, at the same time he makes Sanga Jalala (p. 327) + the "uppermost fall but one and the highest." Finally, at Nsundi (on the + map Soondy N'sanga), which was reached on Sept. 9, a picturesque sandy + cove at the opening of a creek behind along projecting point, begins a + lake- like river, three miles broad, with fine open country on both banks: + the explorer describes it as "beautiful scenery equal to anything on the + banks of the Thames." + </p> + <p> + Here the Nzadi is bounded by low limestone hills already showing the + alluvial basin of Central Africa; and the land is well populated, because + calcareous districts are fertile in the tropics and provisions are + plentiful. Prof. Smith (p. 336) was "so much enraptured with the improved + appearance of the country and the magnificence of the river, that it was + with the greatest difficulty he was prevailed on to return." Of course, + the coaster middle-men report the people to be cannibals. + </p> + <p> + From the Vivi Rapids to Nsundi along the windings of the bed is a total of + 115 miles, about the distance of Vivi to the sea; the direct land march + was 75 miles. Captain Tuckey heard nothing of the Lumini River entering 43 + leagues above the Yellala, and he gives no professional opinion touching + the navigability of the total of six greater rapids which, to judge from + what I saw, can hardly offer any serious obstruction to the development of + the Nzadi. + </p> + <p> + At Nkulu an intelligent native traveller whom I examined through the + interpreters, strongly advised the line of the southern bank: five stages + would lead to Nsundi, and the ten "kings" on the road are not such + "rapacious gentlemen" as our present hosts. A glance at Tuckey's map shows + that this southern line cuts across a long westerly deflection of the bed. + </p> + <p> + I had been warned when setting out that a shipful of goods would not take + me past Nkulu. This was soon confirmed. On the evening after arrival I had + directed my interpreter to sound the "bush- kings" touching the expense of + a march to Nsundi. They modestly demanded 100 lbs. of beads, fifty kegs of + powder, forty demijohns of rum, twelve uniforms, ten burnuses, a few + swords, and 200 whole pieces of various expensive cloths, such as Costa + Finas, Riscados, and satin stripes,—briefly, about £300 for three + days' march. It suggested the modest demand made by King Adooley of + Badagry, from the brothers Lander. + </p> + <p> + The air of Nkulu was a cordial; the aspect of the land suggested that it + is the threshold to a country singularly fertile and delicious, in fact, + the paradise which Bishop Berkeley (Gaudentio di Lucca) placed in Central + Africa. The heat of the lowlands had disappeared,— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The scorching ray + Here pierceth not, impregnate with disease." +</pre> + <p> + The thermometer, it is true, did not sink below 67° (F.), whilst the + "Expedition" (p. 118) had found it 60° in August, even at Boma during the + dewy nights. The lowest temperature of the water was 75°, and the highest + 79°, whereas at the mouth it is sometimes 83°; Tuckey gives 76°-77°; 74° + in the upper river above the Falls, and 73° where there are limestone + springs. The oxydization of iron suddenly ceased; after a single day's + drying, the plants were ready for a journey to England, and meat which + wrill hardly keep one day in the lowlands is here eatable on the fifth. + </p> + <p> + Whilst the important subject of "dash" was being discussed I set out in my + hammock to visit a quitanda or market held hard by. As we started, the + women sang, + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Lungwá u telemene ko + Mwanza Ko Yellala o kwenda." +</pre> + <p> + "The boat that arrives at the Mwanza (the River) the same shall go up to + the Yellala" (rapids). It is part of a chant which the mothers of men now + old taught them in childhood, and the sole reminiscence of the Congo + Expedition, whose double boats, the Ajôjôs of the Brazil, struck their + rude minds half a century ago. + </p> + <p> + These quitandas are attended by people living a dozen miles off, and they + give names to the days, which consequently everywhere vary. Thus at Boma + Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday are respectively called "Nkenge," + "Sona," "Kandu," and "Konzo." This style of dividing time, which is common + throughout Pagan West Africa, is commonly styled a week: thus the Abbé + Proyart tells us that the Loango week consists of four days, and that on + the fourth the men "rest" by hunting and going to market. Tuckey also + recognizes the "week of four days," opposed to the seven days' week of the + Gold Coast. + </p> + <p> + After half an hour's run to the north-west my bearers, raising loud shouts + of "Alii! vai sempre!" dashed into the market-place where about a hundred + souls were assembled. The women rose in terror from their baskets and + piles of vendibles; some began hastily to pack up, others threw themselves + into the bush. Order was soon restored by the interpreter; both sexes and + all ages crowded round me with hootings of wonder, and, when they had + stared their fill, allowed me to sit down under a kind of ficus, not + unlike the banyan-tree (Ficus Indica). Tuckey (p. 181) says that this fig + is planted in all market-places and is considered sacred; his people got + into trouble by piling their muskets against one of them: I heard of + nothing of the kind. The scanty supplies—a few fowls, sun-dried + fish, kola-nuts, beans, and red peppers—were spread upon skins, or + stored in well-worked baskets, an art carried to perfection in Africa; + even the Somali Bedawin weave pots that will hold water. The small change + was represented by a medium which even Montesquieu would not set down as a + certain mark of civilization. The horse-shoe of Loggun (Denham and + Clapperton), the Fán fleam, the "small piece of iron like an ace of spades + on the upper Nile" (Baker), and the iron money of the brachycephalic + Nyam-nyams described and drawn by Schwein furth (i. 279), here becomes a + triangle or demi-square of bast-cloth, about 5 inches of max. length, + fringed, coloured like a torchon after a month of kitchen use, and worth + one-twentieth of the dollar or fathom of cloth. These money-mats or + coin-clouts are known to old travellers as Macuitas and Libonges (in + Angolan Libangos). Carli and Merolla make them equivalent to brass money; + the former were grass-cloth a yard long, and ten = 100 reis; in 1694 they + were changed at Angola for a small copper coin worth 2 1/2 d., and the + change caused a disturbance for which five soldiers were shot. Silver was + represented by "Intagas," thick cottons the size of two large kerchiefs + (=. Is. 6d.) and "Folingas," finer sorts used for waist-cloths (=. 3s. + 6d.); and gold by Beirames (alii Biramis): Carli says the latter are + coarse Indian cottons 5 ells long and each = 200 reis; others describe + them as fine linen each piece worth 7s. 6d. to 8s. The bank-note was the + "Indian piece or Mulech, a young black about twenty years of age, worth 20 + Mil Keys (dollars) each." (Carli.) In the Barbots' day each "coin-clout") + was equivalent to 2d.; some were unmarked, whilst others bore the + Portuguese arms single or double. The wilder Kru-men still keep up their + "buyapart" (= 25 cents), a cloth 4 inches square and thickly sewn over + with cowries. + </p> + <p> + The only liquor was palm wine in huge calabashes. The smoking of Lyamba + (Bhang or Cannabis sativa) seems to become more common as we advance. I + did not find the plant growing, as did Dr. Livingstone at Linyanti and + amongst the Batoka ("First Expedition," 198, 541). The pipe is the gourd + of a baobab, which here sometimes grows a foot and a half long; it is + cleared, filled with water and provided with a wooden tube fixed in the + upper part away from the mouth, and supporting a small "chillam" or bowl + of badly baked clay. The people when smoking affect the bunched shoulders, + the deep inhalation, and the loud and body- shaking bark, which seems + inseparable from the enjoyment of this stimulant. I have used it for + months together, and my conclusion is, that mostly the cough is an + affectation. Tobacco is smoked in the usual heavy clay pipes, with long + mouthpieces of soft wood, quite as civilized as the best European. + "Progress" seems unknown to the pipe; the most advanced nations are + somewhat behind the barbarians, and in the matter of snuff the Tupi or + Brazilian savage has never been rivalled. + </p> + <p> + The greater part of the vendors seemed to be women, of the buyers men; + there was more difference of appearance than in any European fair, and the + population about Nkulu seemed to be a very mixed race. Some were + ultra-negro, of the dead dull-black type, prognathous and long-headed like + apes; others were of the red variety, with hair and eyes of a brownish + tinge, and a few had features which if whitewashed could hardly be + distinguished from Europeans. The tattoo was remarkable as amongst the + tribes of the lower Zambeze.<a href="#linknote-33" name="linknoteref-33" + id="linknoteref-33"><small>33</small></a> There were waistcoats, + epaulettes, braces and cross-belts of huge welts, and raised polished + lumps which must have cost not a little suffering; the skin is pinched up + between the fingers and sawn across with a bluntish knife, the deeper the + better; various plants are used as styptics, and the proper size of the + cicatrice is maintained by constant pressure, which makes the flesh + protrude from the wound. The teeth were as barbarously mutilated as the + skin; these had all the incisors sharp-tipped; those chipped a + chevron-shaped hole in the two upper or lower frontals, and not a few + seemed to attempt converting the whole denture into molars. The legs were + undeniably fine; even Hieland Mary's would hardly be admired here. Whilst + the brown mothers smoked and carried their babies, the men bore guns + adorned with brass tacks, or leaned upon their short, straight, conical + "spuds" and hoes, long-handled bits of iron whose points, after African + fashion, passed through the wood. I nowhere saw the handsome carved + spoons, the hafts and knife-sheaths figured by the Congo Expedition. + </p> + <p> + We left the quitanda with the same shouting and rushing which accompanied + my appearance. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XV. — Return to the Congo Mouth. + </h2> + <p> + In the evening there was a palaver. + </p> + <p> + I need hardly say that my guide, after being paid to show me Nsundi, never + had the slightest intention to go beyond the Yellala. Irritated by + sleeping in the open air, and by the total want of hospitality amongst the + bushmen, he and his moleques had sat apart all day, the picture of + stubborn discontent, and + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Not a man in the place + But had discontent written large in his face." +</pre> + <p> + I proposed to send back a party for rum, powder, and cloth to the extent + of £150, or half the demand, and my factotum, Selim, behaved like a trump. + Gidi Mavunga, quite beyond self-control, sprang up, and declared that, if + the Mundele would not follow him, that obstinate person might remain + behind. The normal official deprecation, as usual, made him the more + headstrong; he rushed off and disappeared in the bush, followed by a part + of his slaves, the others crying aloud to him, "Wenda!"— get out! + Seeing that the three linguisters did not move, he presently returned, and + after a furious address in Fiote began a Portuguese tirade for my benefit. + This white man had come to their country, and, instead of buying captives, + was bent upon enslaving their Mfumos; but that "Branco" should suffer for + his attempt; no "Mukanda" or book (that is, letter) should go down stream; + all his goods belonged of right to his guide, and thus he would learn to + sit upon the heads of the noblesse, with much of the same kind. + </p> + <p> + There are times when the traveller either rises above or sinks to the + level of, or rather below, his party. I had been sitting abstractedly, + like the great quietist, Buddha, when the looks of the assembly suggested + an "address." This was at once delivered in Portuguese, with a loud and + angry voice. Gidi Mavunga, who had been paid for Nsundi, not for the + Yellala, had spoken like a "small boy" (i.e., a chattel). I had no wish to + sit upon other men's heads, but no man should sit on mine. Englishmen did + not want slaves, nor would they allow others to want them, but they would + not be made slaves themselves. My goods were my own, and King Nessala, not + to speak of Mambuco Prata—the name told—had made themselves + responsible for me. Lastly, if the Senhor Gidi Mafung wanted to quarrel, + the contents of a Colt's six-shooter were at his disposal. + </p> + <p> + Such a tone would have made a European furious; it had a contrary effect + upon the African. Gidi Mavunga advanced from his mat, and taking my hand + placed it upon his head, declaring me his "Mwenemputo." The linguisters + then entered the circle, chanted sundry speeches, made little dances, then + bent their knuckles to earth, much in the position of boys preparing to + jump over their own joined hands, dusted themselves, and clapped palms. + Very opportunely arrived a present from the king of fowls, dried fish and + plantains, which restored joy to the camp. "Mwenemputo," I must explain, + primarily meaning "the King of Portugal," is applied in East Central + Africa to a negro king and chiefs ("The Lands of the Cazembe," p. 17). In + Loango also it is the name of a high native official, and, when used as in + the text, it is equivalent to Mfumo, chief or head of family. + </p> + <p> + At night Gidi Mavunga came to our quarters and began to talk sense. + Knowing that my time was limited, he enlarged upon the badness of the road + and the too evident end of the travelling season, when the great rains + would altogether prevent fast travel. Banza Ninga, the next stage, was + distant two or three marches, and neither shelter nor provisions were to + be found on the way. Here a canoe would carry us for a day (12 miles) to + the Sangala Rapids: then would come the third portage of two days (22 + miles) to Nsundi. My outfit at Banza Nokki was wholly insufficient; the + riverine races were no longer tractable as in the days of his father, when + white men first visited the land. My best plan was to return to Boma at + once, organize a party, and march upon Congo Grande (S. Salvador); there I + should find whites, Portuguese, Englishmen and their "Kru-men" the term + generally applied on the southern coast to all native employés of foreign + traders. If determined upon bring "converted into black man" I might join + some trading party into the interior. As regards the cloth and beads + advanced by me for the journey to Nsundi, a fair proportion would be + returned at Banza Nokki. And so saying the old fox managed to look as if + he meant what he said. + </p> + <p> + All this, taken with many a grain, was reasonable. The edge of my + curiosity had been taken off by the Yellala, and nothing new could be + expected from the smaller formations up stream. Time forbade me to linger + at Banza Nkulu. The exorbitant demand had evidently been made by express + desire of Gidi Mavunga, and only a fortnight's delay could have reduced it + to normal dimensions. Yet with leisure success was evident. All the + difficulties of the Nsundi road would have vanished when faced. The wild + people showed no feeling against foreigners, and the Nkulu linguisters + during their last visit begged me to return as soon as possible and "no + tell lie." I could only promise that their claims should be laid before + the public. Accordingly a report of this trip was at once sent in to Her + Majesty's Foreign Office, and a paper was read before the British + Association of September, 1864. + </p> + <p> + Early on Thursday morning (Sept. 17) we began the down march. It was a + repetition of the up march, except that all were bent upon rushing home, + like asses to their stables; none of those posés, or regular halts on the + line of march, as practised by well- trained voyageurs, are known to + Congo-land. There was some reason for the hurry, and travellers in these + regions will do well to remember it, or they may starve with abundance + around them. The kings and chiefs hold it their duty to entertain the + outward bound; but when cloth, beads, and rum have been exhausted, the + returning wanderer sits under a tree instead of entering the banza, and it + is only an exceptional householder who will send him a few eggs or + plantains. They "cut" you, as a rule, more coolly than ever town man cut a + continental acquaintance. Finally, the self-imposed hardships of the down + march break men's spirits for further attempts, and their cupidity cannot + neutralize their natural indolence thus reinforced. + </p> + <p> + We entered on the next afternoon Gidi Mavunga's village, where the lieges + received him with shouts and hand-clappings: at the Papagayo's there was a + dance which lasted through that night and the next. I stayed three days at + Chinguvu finishing my sketches, but to have recovered anything from the + guide would have required three weeks. The old villain relaxed his + vigilance over the women, who for the first time were allowed to enter the + doors without supervision: Merolla treats of this stale trick, and + exclaims,— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Ah pereat! didicit fallere si qua virum." +</pre> + <p> + I was reminded of the classical sentiment upon the Rio de S. Francisco + ("Highlands of the Brazil," ii. chap, xiv.), where, amongst other + sentiments, the boatmen severely denounce in song + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Mulher que engana tropeiro." +</pre> + <p> + As a rule throughout West Africa, where even the wildest tribes practise + it, the "panel dodge" served, as Dupuis remarked, to supply the + slave-trade, and in places like Abeokuta it became a nuisance: the least + penalty to which it leads is the confiscation of the Lothario's goods and + chattels. Foiled in his benevolent attempt, the covetous senior presently + entered the hut, and began unceremoniously to open a package of cloth + which did not belong to him. Selim cocked his revolver, and placed it + handy, so the goods were afterwards respected. + </p> + <p> + At length, on Sept. 19, a piece of cloth (=48 yards) procured a canoe. But + calico and beads are not removed from an African settlement without + disturbance: my factotum has given a detailed account of the scene.<a + href="#linknote-35" name="linknoteref-35" id="linknoteref-35"><small>35</small></a> + Gidi Mavunga so managed that the porters, instead of proceeding straight + to the stream, marched upon Banza Nokki where his royal son was awaiting + us. Worse still, Nessudikira's royal mother was there, a large old virago, + who smoked like a steam-engine and who "swore awful." The moleques were + armed, but none liked proceeding to extremes; so, after an unusually loud + quarrel, we reached the river in three hours, and at 9.45 A.M. we set out + for Boma. + </p> + <p> + The down voyage was charming. Instead of hugging the southern bank, we + raced at a swinging pace down mid-stream. A few showers had wonderfully + improved the aspect of the land, where + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Every tree well from his fellow grew + With branches broad, laden with leaves new, + That springen out against the sunny sheen, + Some very red and some a glad light green;" +</pre> + <p> + and the first breath of spring gave life to the queer antediluvian + vegetation—calabash and cactus, palmyra, bombax, and fern. An + admirable mirage lifted the canoes which preceded us clean out of the + river, and looking down stream the water seemed to flow up hill, as it + does, according to Mrs.—-, in the aqueducts of Madeira. Although the + tide began to flow up shortly after 10 A.M., and the sea-breeze wafe + unusually strong, we covered the forty-five miles in 7 hrs. 15 m. Amidst + shouts of "Izakula Mundeh,"—white men cum agen!—we landed at + Boma, and found that the hospitable Sr. Pereira had waited dinner, to + which I applied myself most "wishedly." + </p> + <p> + Once more in civilization, we prepared for a march upon S. Salvador. + </p> + <p> + No white man at Boma knew anything of the road to the old Capital; but, as + a letter had been received from it after three days' march, there was + evidently no difficulty. I wrote to Porto da Lenha for an extra supply of + "black money," which was punctually forwarded; both Chico Furano and + Nihama Chamvu volunteered for the journey, and preparations were + progressing as rapidly as could be expected in these slow-moving lands, + when they were brought to the abruptest conclusion. On the 24th Sept. a + letter from the Commodore of the station informed me that I had been + appointed H. M.'s Commissioner to Dahome, and that, unless I could at once + sail in H.M.S. "Griffon," no other opportunity would be found for some + time. The only step left was to apply for a canoe, and, after a kindly + farewell to my excellent host, I left Boma on the evening of Sept. 25. + </p> + <p> + With a view of "doing" the mosquitoes, we ran down the Nshibul or central + arm of the Nzadi, and found none of the whirlpools mentioned by the + "Expedition" near Fetish Rock. The bright clear night showed us + silhouettes of dark holms, high and wooded to the north, and southwards + banks of papyrus outlying long straggling lines of thin islands like a + huge caterpillar. The canoe-men attempted to land at one place, declaring + that some king wanted "dash," but we were now too strong for them: these + fellows, if allowed, will halt to speak every boat on the river. The wind + fell to a dead calm, and five hours and a half sufficed to cover the + thirty miles between Boma and Porto da Lenha. Here Mr. Scott supplied me + with a fine canoe and a fresh crew of seven paddles. + </p> + <p> + The noon was grey and still as we left the Whydah of the south, but at 2 + P.M. the sea-breeze came up stiff and sudden, the tide also began to flow; + the river roared; the meeting of wind and water produced what the Indus + boatmen call a "lahar" (tide rip), and the Thalweg became almost as rough + as the Yellala. Our canoe was literally + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Laying her whole side on the sea, + As a leaping fish does." +</pre> + <p> + Unwilling to risk swamping my instruments, I put into the northern bank, + where our friend, the palhabote Espérance, passed under a tricolour, and + manned only by Laptots. As we waved a signal to them, they replied with a + straggling fire of musketry to what they considered a treacherous move on + the part of plundering Musurungus. At sunset a lump of scirrhus before the + sun was so dense that its dark shadow formed a brush like the trabes of a + comet. This soon melted away, and a beautifully diaphanous night tempted + us to move towards the dreary funnel of darkness which opened ahead. The + clouds began to pour; again the stream became rough, and the swift upper + or surface current meeting the cross-tide below represented an agitated + "Race of Portland." Wet and weary we reached Banana Point on Sunday, Sept. + 27, 1863, fortunately not too "late for the mail," and, next day, I was on + board "Griffon," ready for Dahome and for my late host King Gelele. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVI. — The Slaver and the Missionary in the Congo River. + </h2> + <p> + In the preceding pages some details have been given concerning domestic + slavery upon the Congo River. Like polygamy, the system of barbarous and + semi-barbarous races, it must be held provisional, but in neither case can + we see any chance of present end. Should the Moslem wave of conquest, in a + moral as well as a material form, sweep—and I am persuaded that it + will sweep—from North Africa across the equator, the effect will be + only to establish both these "patriarchal institutions" upon a stronger + and a more rational basis. + </p> + <p> + All who believe in "progress" are socially anti-slavers, as we all are + politically Republicans. But between the two extremes, between despotism, + in which society is regimented like an army, and liberty, where all men + are theoretically free and equal, there are infinite shades of solid rule + and government which the wisdom of nations adapts to their wants. The + medium of constitutional monarchy or hereditary presidentship recommends + itself under existing circumstances to the more advanced peoples, and with + good reason; we nowhere find a prevalence of those manly virtues, + disinterestedness and self-sacrifice to the "respublica," which rendered + the endurance of ancient republics possible. Rome could hardly have ruled + the world for centuries had her merchants supplied Carthage with improved + triremes or furnished the Parthians with the latest style of weapons. We + must be wise and virtuous before we can hope to be good republicans, and + man in the mass is not yet "homo sapiens;" he is not wise, and certainly + he is not virtuous. + </p> + <p> + The present state of Africa suggests two questions concerning the + abolition of the export slave-trade, which must be kept essentially + distinct from domestic servitude. The first is, "Does the change benefit + the negro?" Into this extensive subject I do not propose to enter, + contenting myself with recording a negative answer. But upon the second, + "Is the world ready for its abolition?" I would offer a few remarks. They + will be ungrateful to that small but active faction which has laboured so + long and so hard to misinform the English public concerning Africa, and + which is as little fitted to teach anything about the African as to + legislate for Mongolian Tartary. It has prevailed for a time to the great + injury of the cause, and we cannot but see its effects in almost every + step taken by the Englishman, civilian or soldier, who lands his British + opinions and prejudices on the West Coast, and who, utterly ignoring the + fact that the African, as far as his small interests are concerned, is one + of the clearest sighted of men, unhesitatingly puts forth addresses and + proclamations which he would not think of submitting to Europeans. But I + have faith in my countrymen. If there be any nation that deserves to be + looked upon as the arbiter of public opinion in Europe, it is England + proper, which, to the political education of many generations, adds an + innate sense of moderation, of justice, and of fair play, and a suspicion + of extreme measures however theoretically perfect, which do not exist + elsewhere. Heinrich Heine expressed this idea after his Maccabean fashion, + "Ask the stupidest Englishman a question of politics, and he will say + something clever; ask the cleverest Englishman a question of religion and + he will say something stupid." Hence the well-wishers of England can feel + nothing but regret when they find her clear and cold light of reason + obscured, as it has been, upon the negro question by the mists and clouds + of sentimental passion, and their first desire is to see this weakness + pass away. + </p> + <p> + I unhesitatingly assert—and all unprejudiced travellers will agree + with me—that the world still wants the black hand. Enormous tropical + regions yet await the clearing and the draining operations by the lower + races, which will fit them to become the dwelling-place of civilized man. + </p> + <p> + But slave-exportation is practically dead; we would not revive it, nor + indeed could we, the revival would be a new institution, completely in + disaccord with the spirit of the age. It is for us to find something which + shall take its place, and which shall satisfy the just aspirations of + those who see their industry and energy neutralized by want of labour. I + need hardly say that all requirements would be met by negro-emigration; + and that not only Africa, but the world of the east as well as of the + west, call for some measure of the kind. The "cooly" from Hindostan may in + time become a valuable article, but it will be long before he can be + induced to emigrate in sufficient numbers: the Chinese will be a mistake + when the neglected resources of the mighty "Central Empire," mineral and + others, shall be ready to be developed, as they soon must, under the + supervision of Europeans. It remains only for us to draw upon the great + labour-bank of Negro-land. + </p> + <p> + A bonâ fide emigration, a free engagé system, would be a boon to Western + and Inner Africa, where the tribes live in an almost continual state of + petty warfare. The anti-slavers and the abolitionists, of course, + represent this to be the effect of the European trade in man's flesh and + blood; but it prevails, and has ever prevailed, and long will prevail, + even amongst peoples which have never sent a head of negro to the coast. + And there is a large class of men captured in battle, and a host of those + condemned to death by savage superstition, whose lives can be saved only + by their exportation, which, indeed, is the African form of + transportation. "We believe," says the Abbé Proyart (1776), "that the + father sells his son and the prince his subjects; he only who has lived + among them can know that it is not even lawful for a man to sell his + slave, if he be born in the country, unless he have incurred that penalty + by certain crimes specified by law." + </p> + <p> + It will be objected that any scheme of the kind must be so involved in + complicated difficulties that it cannot fail to degenerate into the old + export slave-trade. This I deny. Admitting that such must at first be its + tendency, I am persuaded that the details can so be controlled as to + secure the use without the abuse. Women and children, for instance, should + never be allowed on board ship, unless accompanying husbands and parents. + Those who speak some words of a foreign tongue, English, French, Spanish, + or Portuguese, and on the eastern coast Hindostani, might lead the way, to + be followed in due time by the wilder races. Probably the best ground for + the trial would be the Island of Zanzibar, where we can completely control + its operations. And what should lend us patience and courage to meet and + to beat down all difficulties is the consideration that success will be + the sole possible means, independent of El Islam, of civilizing, or rather + of humanizing, the Dark Continent. The excellent Abbé Proyart begins his + "History of Loango" with the wise and memorable words: "Touching the + Africans, these people have vices,—what people is exempt from vice? + But, were they even more wicked and more vicious, they would be so much + the more entitled to the commiseration and good offices of their fellow- + men, and, should the missionary despair of making them Christians, men + ought still to endeavour to make them men." + </p> + <p> + The "Free Emigration" schemes hitherto attempted have been mere snares and + delusions; chiefly, I hold, because the age was not ripe for them. In 1844 + three agencies were established at Sierra Leone for supplying hands to + British Guiana, Trinidad and Jamaica. As wages they offered per diem $0.75 + to $1, with leave to return at pleasure; the "liberated" preferred, + however, to live upon sixpence at home, suspecting that the bait was + intended as a lure to captivity. Nor were their fears lulled by the fact + that the agents shipped amongst 250 "volunteers" some seventy-six wild + slaves, fresh captives, who were not allowed to communicate with their + fellow-countrymen ashore. In 1850 certain correspondents from Liverpool + inquired of King "Eyo Honesty" if he could provide for service in the West + Indies 10,000 men, women, and children, as the "quotum from the Old + Calabar River," which would mean 100,000 from the West Coast. "He be all + same ole slave-trade," very justly remarked that knowing potentate: he + added, that he would respect the Suppression Treaty with England, and that + he personally preferred palm-oil, but that all the "Calabar gentlemen" and + the neighbouring kings would be glad to supply slaves at a fixed price, + four boxes of brass and copper rods. + </p> + <p> + Followed, in 1852-3, the gigantic scheme of MM. Régis et Cie, which began + operations upon the East as well as the West Coast of Africa. Having + studied it on both sides of the continent, I could not help forming the + worst opinion of the attempt. The agents never spoke of it except as a + slave- trade; the facetiæ touching "achat" and "rachat" were highly suited + to African taste, and I have often heard them declare before the people + that "captives" are the only articles which can profitably be exported + from the coasts—in fact, as old Caspar Barlé said, "precipuæ merces + ipsi Ethiopes sunt." I subjoin to this chapter the form of French + passport; it will serve, when a bonâ fide emigration shall be attempted, + to show "how not to do it." Happily this "emigration" has come to an end": + M. Régis, seeing no results, gave orders to sell off all the goods in his + factories, and to retain only one clerk as housekeeper. The ouvriers + libres deserted and fled in all directions, for fear of being "put in a + cannibal pot" and being eaten by the white anthropophagi. + </p> + <p> + The history of missionary enterprise in the Congo regions is not less + interesting than the slave-trade. The first missioners sailed in December, + 1490, under Goncalo de Sousa; of the three one were killed by the heat, + and another having made himself "Chaplain to the Congolan Army," by a + "Giaghi" chief. The seed sown by these friars was cultivated by twelve + Franciscans of the Order of Observants. The Right Reverend Fathers of the + Company appeared in 1560 with the Conquistador Paulo Dias de Novaes. + According to Lopez de Lima, who seems to endorse the saying, "Si cum + Jesuitis, non cum Jesu itis," they worried one captain- general to death, + and they attempted to found in Congo-land another Uruguay or Paraguay. But + here they totally failed, and, as yet indeed, they have not carried out, + either in East or West Africa, the celebrated boast popularly attributed + to their general, Borgia (1572): + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "We shall come in like the lambs; + We shall be driven out like the dogs, + We shall rush like the wolves; + We shall be icnewed like the eagles." +</pre> + <p> + The baptism of D. Alvaro I. (1491), the founding of the cathedral at S. + Salvador (1534), the appointment of the Bishop and Chapter, and their + transfer to São Paulo de Loanda (1627), have already been alluded to. + </p> + <p> + According to Fathers Carli and Merolla, Pope Alexander VII. sent twelve to + fifteen Capuchins and apostolic missioners, who baptized the King and + Queen of Congo and the Count of Sonho. Between A.D. 1490 and 1690 were the + palmy days of Christianity in Congo-land, and for two centuries it was + more or less the state religion. After this great effort missionary zeal + seems to have waxed cold, and disestablishment resulted, as happens in + such cases, from unbelief within and violent assaults from without. Under + the attacks of the Dutch and French the Church seems to have lost ground + during the eighteenth century. In A.D. 1682 the number of propagandists in + Sonho fell from a father superior and six missioners to two (Merolla). In + A.D. 1700 James Barbot found at Sonho only two Portuguese friars of the + Order of Bernardins. In A.D. 1768 the Loango Mission was established, and + in A.D. 1777 the fathers were followed by four Italian priests sent by the + Propaganda for the purpose of re-christianizing Sonho. Embarking at La + Rochelle they entered the Nzadi, where one died of poison, and the + survivors escaped only by stratagem. Christianity fell before the old + heathenism, and in 1814 we find the King of Congo, D. Garcia V., + complaining to His Most Faithful Majesty that missioners were sadly + wanted. Captain Tuckey's "Expedition" (A.D. 1816) well sets forth the + spiritual destitution of the land. He tells us that three years before his + arrival some missionaries had been murdered by the Sohnese; the only + specimen he met was an ignorant half-caste with a diploma from the + Capuchins of Loanda, and a wife plus five concubines. In 1863 I found that + all traces of Christianity had disappeared. + </p> + <p> + These reverends—who were allowed to dispense with any "irregularity" + except bigamy or wilful murder, and "to read forbidden books except + Machiavel,"—took the title of Nganga Mfumo—Lord + Medicine-man. In the fulness of early zeal they built at S. Salvador the + cathedral of Santa Cruz, a Jesuit College, a Capuchin convent, the + residence of the father superior, maintained by the King of Portugal; a + religious house for the Franciscans, an establishment for the Bishop and + his Chapter, and half-a-dozen stone churches. All these edifices have long + been in ruins. + </p> + <p> + Father Cavazzi da Monte Cuccoli, Denis de Carli, and Merolla, themselves + missioners, have left us ample accounts of the ecclesiastical rule which, + during its short tenure of office, bore a remarkable family resemblance to + that of the Jesuit missions in South America. The religious despotism was + complete, a tyranny grossly aggravated by the credulity, the bigotry, and + the superstition,—I will not say of the age, because such things are + of all ages, but of the imperfect education which the age afforded. There + was no improvement, but rather a deterioration from the days of Pliny. One + father tells the converts that comets forbode ill to the world. Another + describes a bird not much unlike a sparrow, at first sight it seems wholly + black, but upon a nearer view it looks blue; the excellency of its song is + that it harmoniously and articulately pronounces the name of Jesus Christ. + A third remarks, "they (the heathen) are excited by the heavens forming a + cross under the zone; they are excited by the mountains which have the + cross carved on them, without knowing by whom; they are excited by the + earth which draws the crucifix in its fruit called Nicefo." Yet all these + things are of little force to move the hearts of those Gentiles who + scoffingly cry, "When we are sick, forsooth, the wood of this cross will + cure us!" Another father, resolving to denounce certain heathen practices, + placed on the Feast of Purification an image of the Virgin in relievo upon + the altar, and "with a dagger struck through her breast on which the blood + followed:" like Mark Antony, he "improved the occasion," and sent home the + fathers of families to thrash their wives and daughters who were shut up + in the "paint houses." It is gravely related how a hungry friar dines + copiously on fish with an angel; how another was saved by the "father of + miracles, the glorious Saint Anthony of Padua," whom another priest, + taking as his patron, sees before his hammock. A woman, bearing a child in + her arms and supposed to be the Virgin, attends the Portuguese army, and + she again appears in the shape of a "beautiful beggar." The miraculous + resurrection of a boiled cock is gravely chronicled. A certain man lived + 380 years "at the intercession of Saint Francis d'Assise." Of course, the + missioners saw water-monsters in the Congo River. A child "came from his + mother's womb with a beard and all his teeth, perhaps to show he was born + into the world grown old in vice." A certain scoffer "being one day to + pass a river with two companions, was visibly taken up by an invisible + hand into the air. One of his companions, going to take hold of him by the + feet, had such a cuff given him that he fell down in the boat, and the + offender was seen no more." Father Merolla talks of a breed in the Cabo + Verde Islands "between bulls and she-asses, which they compassed by + binding a cow's hide upon the latter:" it would be worth inquiring if this + was ever attempted, and it might add to our traditions about the "Jumart." + And the tale of the elephant-hunters deceiving the animals by anointing + themselves with their droppings deserves investigation. Wounds of poisoned + arrows are healed by that which produced them. A woman's milk cures the + venomous foam which cobras spit into the eyes. A snake as big as a beam + kills and consumes men with its look. An "ill liver," reprimanded by his + father for vicious inclinations, fires a pistol at him; the rebound of the + bullet from the paternal forehead, which remains whole, severely wounds + the would-be parricide: the ablest surgeons cannot heal the hurt, and the + flesh ever continues to be sore and raw upon the forehead, acting like the + brand of Cain. + </p> + <p> + It is said that two of a trade never agree, and accordingly we find the + hottest wrath of the missioners vented upon their rival brethren, the + Ngangas or medicine-men in Africa, and the Pages or Tupi doctors in South + America. The priestly presence deprives an idol of all its powers, the + sacerdotal power annihilates all charms and devices, "thereby showing that + the performances of Christ's ministers are always above those of the + devil's." These "Scinghili," or "Gods of the Earth" (magicians), can sink + boats, be ferried over rivers by crocodiles, and "converse with tigers, + serpents, lions and other wild animals." The "great ugly wizards" are + "sent martyrs to the devil" on all possible occasions. One father soundly + belabours one of these "wicked Magi" with the cord of his order, invoking + all the while the aid of Saint Michael and the rest of the saints: he + enters the "hellish tabernacle, arming himself frequently with the sign of + the cross," but he retreats for fear of a mischief from the "poor deluded + pagans,"—showing that he is, after all, but an "unbelieving Thomas." + On the other hand, the wizards solidly revenged themselves by killing and + eating Father Philip da Salesia. And the deluded ones must have found some + difficulty in discovering the superiority of exotic over indigenous + superstitions. When there is a calm at sea the sailors stick their patron + against the mast, and kneeling before him say, "Saint Antony, our + countryman, you shall be pleased to stand there, till you have given us a + fair wind to continue our voyage!" A certain bishop of Congo makes the + sign of the cross upon a "banyan-tree," whereupon it immediately died, + like the fig-tree cursed by our-Saviour. A ship is "sunk in a trice" for + not having a chaplain on board her. The missioners strongly recommend + medals, relics, Agni-Dei, and palm-leaves consecrated on Palm Sundays. + They rage furiously against and they flog those who wear "wizards' mats," + against magic cords fastened round young children as amulets, and against + the teeth and bones of animals, and cloth made from the rind of certain + trees carried as preservatives from disease and supernatural influences: + even banners in burial-places are "superstitious and blamable." They claim + the power of stopping rain by cursing the air, and of producing it by + prayer, and by "a devout procession to Our Lady of Pinda," a belief truly + worthy of the Nganga; and a fast ship is stranded that "men may learn to + honour holidays better." When the magicians swear falsely they either + burst like Judas or languish and die—"a warning to be more cautious + how they jest with God." An old hag, grumbling after a brutish manner, + proceeds to bewitch a good father to death by digging a hole and planting + a certain herb. The ecclesiastic resolved to defeat her object by not + standing long in one place. He remembers the saying of the wise man, + "Mulier nequam plaga mortis;" and at last by ordering her off in the name + of the Blessed Trinity and the Holy Virgin, "withal gently blowing towards + her," she all of a sudden giving three leaps, and howling thrice, flies + away in a trice. The Bolungo or Chilumbo oath or ordeal is, of course, a + "hellish ceremony." Demons play as active a part in Africa as in China. + The Portuguese nuncio permits the people in their simplicity to light + candles before and to worship the so-called "Bull of the Blessed + Sacrament," that by which Urban VIII. allowed the Congo kings to be + crowned after the Catholic manner by the Capuchins, because the paper + bears the "venerable effigies." + </p> + <p> + Priests may be good servants, but they are, mundanely speaking, bad + masters. The ecclesiastical tyranny exercised upon the people from the + highest to the lowest goes far to account for the extinction of + Christianity in the country where so much was done to spread it. The kings + of Congoland, who "tread on the lion in the kingdom of their mothers" must + abjectly address their spiritual lords. "I conjure you, prostrate at your + holy feet, to hearken to my words." Whilst the friars talk of "that + meekness which becomes a missioner," their unwise and unwarrantable + interference extends to the Count of Sonho himself; whose election was not + valid unless published in the church, owning withal that, "though a Black, + he is an absolute Prince; and not unworthy of a Crown, though he were even + in Italy, considering the number of his Servants and the extent of his + Dominions." They issue eight ordinances or "spiritual memorandums" + degrading governors of cities and provinces who are not properly married, + who neglect mass, or who do not keep saints' festivals. Flogging seems to + have been the punishment of all infractions of discipline, for those who + used "magic guards" to their fields instead of "setting the sign of the + Cross;" and for all who did not teach their children "to repeat, so many + times a day, the Rosary or the Crown, in honour of the Blessed Virgin, to + fast on Saturdays, to eat no flesh on Wednesdays, and such things used + among Christians." One of the Mwanis (governors) refuses to grub up and + level with his own hands a certain grove where the "hellish trade" (magic) + was practised; he is commanded to discipline himself in the church during + the whole time of celebrating mass. If the governor is negligent in + warning the people that a missioner has arrived, "he will receive a + deserved punishment, for we make it our business to get such a person + removed from his employment, even within his year,"—a system of + temporal penalties affixed to spiritual lâches not unknown elsewhere. The + following anecdote will show the style of reproof. Father Benedict da + Belvedere, a Neapolitan who had preached at Rome and was likewise + confessor to the nuns, heard the chief elector, one of the principal + nobles, asking the heretical question, "Are we not all to be saved by + baptism?" A "sound box on the ear" was the reply, and it led to a tumult. + The head of the mission sent for the offended dignitary, and offered him + absolution if he would sincerely recant his words and beg pardon of the + churchman militant. The answer was, "That would be pleasant indeed; he was + the aggressor, yet I must make the excuse! Must I receive a blow, and, + notwithstanding, be thought to have done wrong?" But the peace-maker + explained that the blow was given not to offend, but to defend from + hearkening to heresies; that it was administered, moreover, out of + paternal affection by a spiritual father, whom it did not mis-become, to a + son who was not dishonoured by receiving it. The unfortunate elector not + only suffered in the ear, but was also obliged to make an abject apology, + and to kiss the offender's feet before he was re-admitted to communion. At + Maopongo the priests lost favour with the court and the women by whipping + the queen, and, by the same process they abated the superhuman pretensions + of the blacksmith. + </p> + <p> + When the chiefs and princes were so treated, what could the subjects + expect? The smallest ecclesiastical faults were punished with fining and a + Talmudic flogging, and for disobedience, a man was sent "bound to Brazil, + a thing they are more than ordinarily afraid of." A man taking to wife, + after the Mosaic law, a woman left in widow-hood by his kinsman, is + severely scourged, and the same happens to a man who marries his cousin, + besides being deprived of a profitable employment. Every city and town in + Sonho had a square with a central cross, where those who had not satisfied + the Easter command or who died unconfessed were buried without privilege + of clergy. The missioners insist upon their privilege of travelling free + of expense, and make a barefaced use of the corvée. The following is the + tone of a mild address to the laity: "Some among you are like your own + maccacos or monkeys amongst us who, keeping possession of anything they + have stolen, will sooner suffer themselves to be taken and killed, than to + let go their prey. So impure swine wallow in their filth and care not to + be cleansed." + </p> + <p> + A perpetual source of trouble was of course the slave-trade: negroes being + the staple of the land, and ivory the other and minor item, the great + profits could not fail to render it the subject of contention. The reasons + why the Portuguese never succeeded in making themselves masters of Sonho + are reduced by the missioner annalists to three. Firstly, the opposition + of the people caused by fear; secondly, the objections of the Sonhese to + buying arms and ammunition; and, thirdly, the small price paid by the + Portuguese for "captives." The "Most Reverend Cardinal Cibo," writing in + the name of the Sacred College, complained that the "pernicious and + abominable abuse of slave-selling" was carried on under the eyes of the + missioners, and peremptorily ordered them to remedy the evil. Finding this + practically impossible, the holy men salved their consciences by ordering + their flocks not to supply negroes to the heretical Hollanders and + English, "whose religion is so very contrary to ours," but to the + Portuguese, who would "withdraw the poor souls out of the power of + Lucifer." One father goes so far, in his fear of heretical influences, as + to remunerate by the gift of a slave the dealer Ferdinando Gomez, who had + supplied him with "a flask of wine for the sacrament and some other small + things," yet he owns F. Gomez to be a rogue. + </p> + <p> + As the Portuguese would not pay high prices like the heretics, + disturbances resulted, and these were put down by the desperate expedient + of shutting the church-doors—a suicidal act not yet quite obsolete. + Whereupon the Count of Sonho, we are told, "changed his countenance almost + from black to yellow," and complained to the bishop at Loanda that the + sacraments were not administered: the appeal was in vain, and, worse, an + extra aid was sent to the truculent churchmen. Happily for them, the + small- pox broke out, and the ruler was persuaded by his subjects to do + the required penance. Appearing at the convent, unattended, with a large + rope round his neck, clad in sackcloth, crowned with thorns, unshod, and + carrying a crucifix, he knelt down and kissed the feet of the priest, who + said to him, "If thou hast sinned like David, imitate him likewise in thy + repentance!" + </p> + <p> + The schismatics caused abundant trouble Captain Cornelius Clas "went about + sowing heretical tares amidst the true corn of the Gospel;" amongst other + damnable doctrines and subtleties, this nautical and volunteer theologian + persuaded the blacks, whom he knew to be desirous of greater liberty in + such matters, that baptism is the only sacrament necessary to salvation, + because it takes away original sin, as the blood of the Saviour actual + sin. He furthermore (impudently) disowned the real presence in the + consecrated Host; he invoked Saint Anthony, although his tribe generally + denies that praying to saints can be of any use to man; and he declared + that priests should preach certain doctrines (which, by the way, were + perniciously heretical). Thus in a single hour he so prevailed upon those + miserable negroes that their hearts became quite as black as their faces. + An especially offensive practice of the Hollanders, in the eyes of the + good shepherds, was that of asking the feminine sheep for a whiff of + tobacco—it being a country custom to consider the taking a pipe from + a woman's mouth a "probable earnest of future favours." When an English + ship entered the river, the priests forbade by manifesto the sale of + slaves to the captain, he being a Briton, ergò a heretic, despite the Duke + of York. The Count of Sonho disobeyed, and was excommunicated accordingly: + he took his punishment with much patience, although upon occasions of + reproof he would fly into passions and disdains; he was reconciled only + after obliging 400 couples that lived in concubinage to lawful wedlock, + and thus a number of "strayed souls was reduced to matrimony." + </p> + <p> + We can hardly wonder that, under such discipline, a large ecclesiastical + body was necessary to "maintain the country in its due obedience to the + Christian faith," and that, despite their charity in alms and their + learning, no permanent footing was possible for the strangers. Nor can we + be astonished that the good fathers so frequently complain of being + poisoned. On one occasion a batch of six was thus treated near Bamba. In + this matter perhaps they were somewhat fanciful, as the white man in India + is disposed to be. One of them, for instance cured himself with a "fruit + called a lemon" and an elk-hoof, from what he took to be poison, but what + was possibly the effect of too much pease and pullet broth. In "O Muata + Cazembe "(pp. 65-66), we find that the Asiatic Portuguese attach great + value to the hoof of the Nhumbo (A. gnu), they call it "unha de grãbesta," + and use it even in the gotta-coral (epilepsy). + </p> + <p> + And yet many of these ecclesiastics, whom Lopez de Lima justly terms + "fabulistas," were industrious and sensible men, where religion was not + concerned. They carefully studied the country, its "situation, + possessions, habitations, and clothing." They formed always outside their + faith the justest estimate of their black fellow-creatures. I cannot too + often repeat Father Merolla's dictum, "The reader may perceive that the + negroes are both a malicious and subtle people that spend the most part of + their time in circumventing and deceiving." + </p> + <p> + Nor has spiritual despotism been confined to the Catholic missions in West + Africa: certain John Knoxes in the Old Calabar River have repeated, + especially in the case of the king "young Eyo," whom they excluded from + communion, all the abuses and the errors of judgment of the seventeenth + century with the modifications of the nineteenth. And we must not readily + endorse Dr. Livingstone's professional opinion. "In view of the desolate + condition of this fine missionary field, it is more than probable that the + presence of a few Protestants would soon provoke the priests, if not to + love, to good works." Such is not the history of our propagandism about + the Cape of Good Hope. Dr. Gustav Fritsch ("The Natives of South Africa," + 1872), thus speaks of the missionary Livingstone, who must not be + confounded with the great explorer Livingstone: "A man who is borne onward + by religious enthusiasm and a glowing ambition, without our being able to + say which of these two levers works more powerfully in his soul. Certain + it is that he endured more labours and overcame more geographical + difficulties than any other African traveller either before or after him; + yet it is also sure that, on account of the defective natural-historical + education of the author, and the indiscreet partisanship for the natives + against the settlers, his works have spread many false views concerning + South Africa." This, I doubt not, will be the verdict of posterity. See + "Anthropologia," in which are included the Proceedings of the London + Anthropological Society (inaugurated 22 January, 1873. No. 1, October, + 1873. London: Baillière, Tindall, and Co.) The Review (pp. 89-102), bears + the well-known initials J. B. D., and it is not saying too much that no + man in England is so well fitted as Dr. Davis to write it. I quote these + passages without any feeling of disrespect for the memory of the great + African explorer. Truth is a higher duty even than generous appreciation + of a heroic name, and the time will come when Negrophilism must succumb to + Fact. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVII. — Concluding Remarks. + </h2> + <p> + I have thus attempted to trace a picture of the Congo River in the latter + days of the slave-trade, and of its lineal descendant, "L'Immigration + Africaine." The people at large are satisfied, and the main supporters of + the traffic—the chiefs, the "medicine- men," and the white traders—have + at length been powerless to arrest its destruction. + </p> + <p> + And here we may quote certain words of wisdom from the "Congo Expedition" + in 1816: "It is not to be expected that the effects of abolition will be + immediately perceptible; on the contrary, it will probably require more + than one generation to become apparent: for effects, which have been the + consequence of a practice of three centuries, will certainly continue long + after the cause is removed." The allusion in the sentence which I have + italicized, is of course, to the American exportation—domestic + slavery must date from the earliest ages. These sensible remarks conclude + with advocating "colonization in the cause of civilization;" a process + which at present cannot be too strongly deprecated. + </p> + <p> + That the Nzadi is capable of supplying something better than slaves may be + shown by a list of what its banks produce. Merolla says in 1682: "Cotton + here is to be gathered in great abundance, and the shrubs it grows on are + so prolific, that they never almost leave sprouting." Captain Tuckey + ("Narrative," p. 120) declares "the only vegetable production at Boma of + any consequence in commerce is cotton, which grows wild most luxuriantly, + but the natives have ceased to gather it since the English have left off + trading to the river," I will not advocate tobacco, cotton and sugar; they + are indigenous, it is true, but their cultivation is hardly fitted to the + African in Africa. Copper in small quantities has been brought from the + interior, but the mineral resources of the wide inland regions are wholly + unknown. If reports concerning mines on the plateau be trustworthy, there + will be a rush of white hands, which must at once change, and radically + change, all the conditions of the riverine country. Wax might be supplied + in large quantities; the natives, however, have not yet learnt to hive + their bees. Ivory was so despised by the slave-trade, that it was sent + from the upper Congo to Mayumba and the other exporting harbours; demand + would certainly produce a small but regular supply. + </p> + <p> + The two staples of commerce are now represented by palm-oil, which can be + produced in quantities over the lowlands upon the whole river delta, and + along the banks from the mouth to Boma, a distance of at least fifty + direct miles. The second, and the more important, is the arachis, or + ground-nut, which flourishes throughout the highlands of the interior, and + which, at the time of my visit, was beginning to pay. As the experience of + some thirty years on different parts of the West Coast has proved, both + these articles are highly adapted to the peculiarities of the negro + cultivator; they require little labour, and they command a ready, a + regular, and a constant sale. + </p> + <p> + When time shall be ripe for a bonâ fide emigration, the position of Boma, + at the head of the delta, a charming station, with healthy air and + delicious climate, points it out as the head- quarters. Houses can be + built for nominal sums, the neighbouring hills offer a sanatorium, and due + attention to diet and clothing will secure the white man from the + inevitable sufferings that result from living near the lower course. + </p> + <p> + With respect to the exploration of the upper stream, these pages, compared + with the records of the "First Congo Expedition," will show the many + changes which time has brought with it, and will suggest the steps most + likely to forward the traveller's views. At some period to come explorers + will follow the line chosen by the unfortunate Tuckey; but the effects of + the slave-trade must have passed away before that march can be made + without much obstruction. When Lieutenant Grandy did me the honour of + asking my advice, I suggested that he might avoid great delay and + excessive outlay by "turning" the obstacle and by engaging "Cabindas" + instead of Sierra Leone men. At the Royal Geographical Society (Dec. 14th, + 1874) he thus recorded his decision: "For the guidance of future + travellers in the Congo country, I would suggest that all the carriers be + engaged at Sierra Leone, where any number can be obtained for 1s. 3d. a + day. From my experience of them I can safely say they will be found to + answer every requirement, and the employment of them would render an + expedition entirely independent of the natives, who, by their cowardice + and constant desertion, entailed upon us such heavy expenses and serious + delays. My conviction, after nearly four years of travel upon the West + African coast, is this: if Sierra Leone men be used, they must be mixed + with Cabindas and with Congoese "carregadores," registered in presence of + the Portuguese authorities at S. Paulo de Loanda. + </p> + <p> + I conclude with the hope that the great Nzadi, one of the noblest, and + still the least known of the four principal African arteries, will no + longer be permitted to flow through the White Blot, a region unexplored + and blank to geography as at the time of its creation, and that my labours + may contribute something, however small, to clear the way for the more + fortunate explorer. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE" id="link2H_APPE"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Appendix + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + I. — METEORLOGICAL +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Instruments used for altitudes:— + Pocket aneroid, corrected +0.55, "R.G.S" + Casella's Alpine Sympiesometer, corrected to 67° (F.). + + N.B.— Returning to Fernando Po, found that part of the liquid has lodged in upper + bulb, and therefore corrected index error by standard aneroid 1.15 (Symp. = + 29.258, and standard, 30.400). + + Observations at the Congo mouth in February, 1863 (from log of H.M.S. "Griffon"). + + Thermometer Barometer Winds Place + Engine in sea. Force & Direction + Room. A.M. P.M. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 86° 76° 29.90 (1) S.E. (1) N.N.W. Loanda. + 92° 77° 29.92 (1) S.W. (2) W.N.W. En route to Congo. + 108° 76° 29.90 (1) S. (3) S.S.W. En route to Congo. + 86° 78° 29.90 (2) S. (3) W. En route to Congo. + 88° 78° 29.90 (2) S.W. (2) S.S.W. En route to Congo. + 94° 80° 29.90 (2) S.E. (2) S.W. En route to Congo. + 90° 83° 29.90 (2) S. (2-3)S. Congo. + 90° 80° 29.90 (0) Calm (1) W. Congo. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (Signed) F. F. Flynne, + Assistant-Surgeon in Charge. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Place and Date. Time of Day. Thermometer. Symp. Remarks. + + 9th September 6 a.m. 65° 28.00 cor. 29.12 Cold morning, light wind from N.N.E., + Banza nokki 9 a.m. 72° 27.70 cor. 28.82 threatened rain, 8 a.m.; noon misty, + on hills above Noon. 78° 27.90 cor. 29.02 day hazy; 3 p.m., sun hot, wind cooler + river 3 p.m. 80.5° 27.85 cor. 28.97 from west; evening, stiff sea-breeze, + 6 p.m. 72° 27.90 cor. 29.02 people complain of cold; night, heavy + dew. + + 10th Sept. 6 a.m. 67° 27.90 cor. 29.02 Misty morning, warm at 9 a.m., wind; noon, + Same place, 9 a.m. 75° 27.75 cor. 28.87 hot sun, high sea-breeze; 3 p.m., hot + Nokki. Noon. 83° 27.85 cor. 28.97 sun, cool west wind; cloudy evening; + 3 p.m. 85° 27.75 cor. 28.87 windy night, dew cold and heavy. + 6 p.m. 74° 27.85 cor. 28.97 + Altitude of Nokki above sea, 1,430 feet. + + 11th Sept. 9 a.m. 77° 27.70 cor. 28.82 Misty morning, warm but clouding over; + Banza Noon. 87° 27.55 cor. 28.67 at noon high sea-breeze, glare and hot + Chingufu 3 p.m. 83° 27.45 cor. 28.57 sun, when clouds break 97° in sun, + above Nokki; 6 p.m. 73° 27.50 cor. 28.62 2 p.m.; 3 p.m., high sea-breeze up + see also 18th river; 6 p.m., cold sea-breeze, cloudy + and 19th Sept. sky. + Altitude of Chingufu, 1,703 feet. + + Chingufu + + 12th Sept. 6 a.m. 65° 27.70 cor. 28.82 Clear fine morning; high west wind + First observation Nekolo. at 6 a.m.; pocket aneroid 29.00 + Chingufu, 9 a.m. 76° 28.50 cor. 29.62 Shady verandah facing to west; at + others at Nekolo Noon. 84° 28.35 cor. 29.47 noon aneroid 30.05; 3 p.m., hot + lower down & near 3 p.m. 85° 28.40 cor. 29.52 sun, westerly breeze, few clouds; + river. 6 p.m. 77° 28.30 cor. 29.42 6 p.m., very clear, east wind + strong; no dew at night. + + Negolo Nkulu. + 13th Sept. 6 a.m. 70° 28.45 cor. 29.57 Close cloudy morning; 9 a.m., + Negolo and near 9 a.m. 77° 28.50 cor. 29.62 alternately clear and cloudy, + Congo River. Noon. 90° 28.45 cor. 29.57 glare, no wind; noon bright and + sultry, no clouds; 3 p.m., in shady + cove 10 feet above river; rain at + 5.30 p.m., lasted two hours; + dispersed by westerly breeze. + Cove near river. + 3 p.m. 94° 29.10 cor. 30.22 + Height of Negolo, 828 feet. + + Left bank. + 14th Sept 6 a.m. 74° 29.30 cor 30.50 Dull, warm, and cloudy. + Right bank. + Banza Vivi on 9 a.m. 84° 29.35 cor. 30.57 Aneroid 30.60, dull day. + hills above right Noon. 80° 28.95 cor. 30.07 Anerodi 30.10 dull day, very little + bank. 3 p.m. 84° 28.35 cor. 29.47 breeze, village shut in, clouds + 6 p.m. 79° 28.85 cor. 29.97 from west + + Banza Vivi. + 15th Sept. 6 a.m. 74° 29.15 cor. 30.25 Thick drizzle from west, no wind. + At Banza Simbo, half way up Vivi range, aneroid 29.42. + Banza Nkulu Noon 78° 28.10 cor. 29.22 Under tree facing north; puffs of + above rapids. west wind, threatened rain, none + came. + 6 p.m. 75° 28.10 cor. 29.22 In veranda facing north-east; clear + night, heavy dew. + + Banza Nkulu. + 16th Sept. 6 a.m. 69° 28.20 cor. 29.32 Grass wet, heavy dew, rain + threatened, aneroid 29.50. + 100 feet above rapids. + 7.30 a.m. 73° 29.25 cor. 30.37 Aneroid 30.55. + Banza Nkulu again Noon. 80° 28.10 cor. 29.22 Aneroid 29.55, dull, cloudy, rain + threatened. + 3 p.m. 75° 28.00 cor. 29.12 Dull day, clearer towards evening, + 6 p.m. 75° 28.00 cor. 29.12 very heavy dew. + Altitude of Nkulu, 1212 feet. + Altitude of Yellala Rapids, 390 feet. + + Nkulu. + 17th Sept. 5.30 a.m. 67° 28.15 cor. 29.27 Grey, cool; threatens sunny day. + Right bank of river. + 9.20 a.m. 77° 29.30 cor. 30.42 Cool west wind. + In canoe on river below Little Rapids. + 10.50 a.m. 81° 20.20 cor. 30.32 Aneroid 30.57(59) + Left bank 20 feet above water, under fig-tree facing north. + Noon. 81° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Aneroid 30.50. + Negolo Town 3 p.m. 83° 28.30 cor. 29.42 Day hot, aneroid in verandah 30.50. + Banza Chingufu. + 6 p.m. 71° 27.55 cor. 28.67 Clear evening, misty towards night, + young moon with halo. + Height of river below Vivi Fall, 195 feet. + + 18th Sept. 6 a.m. 65° 27.60 cor. 28.72 Cool, grey, no wind. + At Chingufu as 9 a.m. 76° 27.65 cor. 28.77 Strong land wind, from east, no + before. sun, heavy clouds N.E. + Noon. 90° 27.50 cor. 28.62 High west wind, hot sun. + 3.30 p.m. 88° 27.35 cor. 28.47 Clear at 1 p.m., thermometer 100° + little wind, sun hot. + 6 p.m. 77° 27.45 cor. 28.57 Clear evening, no dew, misty moon, + high sea-breeze at night. + + 19th Sept. 6 a.m. 67° 27.70 cor. 28.82 Still grey morning, no wind. + At Chingufu. 9.30 a.m. 76° 27.65 cor. 28.77 Lighter, wind from west. + Noon. 81° 27.60 cor. 28.72 Dull, light west wind. + 3 p.m. 88° 27.45 cor. 28.57 Cloudy and sunny, west wind. + 6 p.m. 72° 27.50 cor. 28.62 Clear, fine, little wind. + How do these agree with September 11? + + Chingufu. + 20th Sept. 6 a.m. 69° 27.70 cor. 28.82 Fine, clear, and still morning. + On river. + Down river 9 a.m. 82° 29.35 cor. 30.47 Hot day, aneroid 30.55; at 10 a.m. + 29.85. + Off Chacha village on river. + Noon. 87° 29.35 cor. 30.47 Sea-breeze, sun hot, but obscured + by smoke of bush fires. + On river. + 3 p.m. 86° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Aneroid 30.40, stiff sea breeze. + Last observation taken about 5 miles above Boma. + + 21 Sept. 9 a.m. 76° 29.30 cor. 30.42 Cool, cloudy, pleasant. + At Boma. Noon. 81.5° 29.25 cor. 30.37 Dull, threatens rain. + 3 p.m. 86° 29.25 cor. 30.37 Dull, muggy, cloudy. + + 22nd Sept. 6 a.m. 77° 29.10 cor. 30.22 Dull, cloudy, cool; instrument in + Boma. verandah facing south-west. + 9 a.m. 76° 20.30 cor. 30.42 + Noon. 84° 29.30 cor. 30.42 Dull and warm. + 3 p.m. 84° 29.10 cor. 30.22 Very dull, strong sea-breeze comes + up in afternoon, and lasts till + 9 p.m. + 6 p.m. 79° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Dull night. + Mean altitude of Boma (commonly called Embomma), 73 feet. + + 23rd Sept. 6 a.m. 70.5° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Dull morning + Boma. 9 a.m. 81.75° 29.25 cor. 30.37 Clear and sunny. + 3 p.m. 92° 29.10 cor. 30.22 Clear, hot, and sunny. + 6 p.m. 79° 29.15 cor. 30.27 High wind, sun. + + 24th Sept. 6 a.m. 74° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Cool and clear. + Boma. 9 a.m. 81° 29.30 cor. 30.42 Hot and clear. + 12.30 p.m. 93.75° 29.10 cor. 30.22 Hot and clear. + 3 p.m. 93.57° 29.05 cor. 30.17 Very strong sea-breeze till late at + night. + 6 p.m. 79.5° 29.15 cor. 30.27 Very strong sea-breeze till late at + night. + + 25th Sept. 6 a.m. 74° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Dull, no sun, rain threatened. + Noon. 81° 29.20 cor. 30.32 + 3 p.m. 83° 29.19 cor. 30.31 Aneroid 30.15. + 6 p.m. 78° 29.10 cor. 30.22 Dull, no sun, wind subsided at + night. + + Porto da Senha at factory. + 26th Sept. 6 a.m. 78° 29.25 cor. 30.37 Aneroid 30.62, day clear. + 9 a.m. 76° 29.30 cor. 30.42 Aneroid 30.40, hot sun. + On passage in canoe down river. + Noon. 87° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Aneroid 30.45. + 3 p.m. 95.5° 29.00 cor. 30.12 Aneroid 30.52. + Mean altitude of Porto da Lenha, 38 feet. + + 28th Sept. 6 a.m. 71.25° 29.15 cor. 30.27 Dry, cloudy morning. + Banana factory, 9 a.m. 75° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Calm, land and sea breezes very + mouth of river, regular. + 60 feet above Noon. 81° 29.10 cor. 30.22 At noon thermometer at seaside in + sea level. sun (overcast) 83.5°. + 3 p.m. 75.5° 29.05 cor. 30.17 + 6 p.m. 74° 29.05 cor. 30.17 Symp. (corrected) 30.32°. + + 29th Sept. 6 a.m. 73° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Weather calm; at seaside in sun + same place. 9 a.m. 80° 29.20 cor. 30.32 (overcast) thermometer 74.5°. + Noon. 83° 29.10 cor. 30.22 + 3 p.m. 80° 29.15 cor. 30.27 Symp. (corrected) 30.32°. + 6 p.m. 74° 29.05 cor. 30.17 Night cold and windy. + + 30th Sept. 6 a.m. 71° 29.20 cor. 30.32 Clear weather, high wind. + same place. 9 a.m. 79° 29.15 cor. 30.27 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + II. — Plants Collected in the Congo, at Dahome, and the Island of + Annabom, by Mr. Consul Burton. + + Received at the Herbarium, Royal Gardens, Kew, + September, 1864. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Argemone Mexicana Dahome. + Cleome Guineensis, Hf. Congo. + Gynardropsis pentaphylla, D. C. Ditto. + Ritcheia fragrans. Br. Dahome. + Alsodeia sp. Congo. + Flacourtia sp. Dahome. + Polygala avenaria, Willd. Congo. + Polycarpæa linearifolia Dahome (not laid in). + Seda cordifolia, L. Congo. + Seda an S. humilis (?) Ditto. + Seda urens, L. Ditto. + Abutilon sp. Ditto. + Urena lobata, L. Annabom and Congo. + Hibiscus cannabinus, L. Dahome. + Hibiscus vitifolius, L. Congo. + Hibiscus (Abelmoschus) Moschatus, Moench Ditto. + Hibiscus aff. H. Sabdariffæ Dahome. + Gossypium sp. Congo. + Walthenia Indica, L. Dahome. + Walthenia (?) Congo. + Triumfetta rhomboidea (?) Congo, Annabom, Dahome. + Acridocarpus sp. Congo. + Citrus Aurantium (?) Annabom (not laid in). + Citrus sp. Annabom (not laid in). + Cardiospermum Helicacabum, L. Annabom. + Anacardium occidentale, L. Congo and Annabom. + Spondias dubia? Reich. Annabom. + Cnestis(?) sp. Dahome. + Cnestis(?) sp. Congo. + (?)Spondias sp. (very young) Ditto (not laid in). + (?)Soindeia sp. fl. ft. Congo. + Rosa sp. Ditto (not laid in). + Jussieua acuminata, Jno. Congo. + Jussieua linifolia(?) Vahl. Ditto. + Mollugo Spergula, L. Ditto. + Combretum spinosum(?) Dahome (fl. only). + Combretum sp. Congo. + Quisqualis ebracteata(?) Ditto. + Combretum sp. (fruct.) Ditto (not laid in). + Combretum sp. Congo. + Modeeca tamnifolia(?), Kl. Annabom. + Syzygium Avariense, Kth. Congo. + Melothria triangularis(?), Kth. Ditto. + Melothria(?) sp. Ditto. + Cucurbitaceæ (3 other spp. very imperfect and not laid in). + Umbelliferæ Congo. + Desmodium Mauritianum(?), D.C. Ditto, Annabom(?) + Desmodium do. v. adscendens Congo. + Desmodium latifolium, D.C. Dahome. + Desmodium Gargeticum (?), D. C. Annabom. + Cajanus Indicus, L. Congo. + Eniosema cajanoides Ditto. + Eniosema aff. id. Ditto. + Eniosema aff. glomerata Ditto. + Abrus precatorius(?) Annabom. + Pisum sativum Congo. + Phaseolus sp. Annabom. + Rhynchaesia sp. Congo. + Tephrosia sp. Ditto. + Milletia(?) sp. Ditto. + Milletia(?) Ditto. + Milletia or Lonchocarpus (?) Congo. + Indigofera af. I. endeeaphylla. Jacq. Annabom. + Indigofera sp. Congo. + Indigofera sp. Dahome. + Indigofera sp. Ditto. + Sesbania sp. Congo. + Crotalaria sp. Dahome. + Glycine labialis (?) Annabom. + Erythrina sp. (?) Dahome. + Berlinia sp. (?) Congo. + Cassia occidentalis, L. Ditto (not laid in) + Cassia mimosoides (?), L. Congo. + Dichrostachys nutans (?) Ditto. + Mimosa asperata (?), L. Congo (not laid in) + Zygia fastigiata (?) Ela Dahome. + Vernonia (Decaneuron), Senegalensis Ditto, Annabom. + Vernonia Congo. + Vernonia an V. pandurata (?) Ditto. + Vernonia cinerea Ditto. + Ethulia conyzoides Ditto. + Vernonia an V. pauciflora (?) Dahome. + Vernonia stæchadifolia, Sch. Ditto. + Ageratum conyzoides, L. Annabom, Congo. + Mikania chenopodiifolia, Wild. Ditto. + Grangea, sp. Congo. + Bidens pilosa, L. Ditto. + Coronocarpus (?) Dahome. + Blumea (?) sp. Ditto. + Blumea sp. Ditto. + Blumea sp. Ditto. + Chrysanthellum Sengalense (?), D.C. Dahome. + Verbesinoid. dub. Congo. + Gnaphalium an luteo-album (?) Ditto. + Hedyotis corymbosa, L. Ditto. + Otomeria Guineensis (?), Kth. Ditto. + Randia longistyla, D. C. Dahome. + Borreria ramisparsa (?), D. C. var. Ditto. + Octodon (?) sp. Dahome. + Spermacoce Ruelliæ (?), D. C. Ditto. + Baconia Corymbosa, D. C. Ditto. + Baconia aff. d. Annabom. + Rubiaceæ, dub. Congo. + Rubiaceæ Ditto. + Rubiaceæ Annabom. + Diospyros (?) sp. Congo. + Cynoctonum (?) aff. Ditto. + Ipomæa sp. (?). Ditto. + Ipomæa sp. Ditto. + Ipomæa sp. Ditto. + Ipomæa sp. Dahome. + Ipomæa filicaulis, Bl. Congo. + Ipomæa sp. Ditto. + Ipomæa involucrata. Dahome. + Ipomæa sessiliflora (?) Clius (?) Ditto, Congo. + Leonotis nepetifolia. Bil. Congo. + Ocymum an O. gratissimum (?) Ditto (not laid in). + Moschoesma polystachya (?) Ditto (ditto). + Heliophytum Indicum, D. C. Ditto. + Heliotropium strigosum (?), Willd. Dahome. + Brillantaisia an B. patula, P. A. (?) Congo. + Dicliptera verticillaris (?), Juss. Ditto. + Asystasia Coromandeliana (?) Dahome. + Justicia Galeopsis Ditto. + Lycopersicum esculentum Congo. + Capsicum an C. frutescens (?) Ditto (ditto). + Solanum Ditto (ditto). + Solanum Annabom (ditto). + Solanum Congo (ditto). + Schwenckia Americana, L. Ditto. + Scoparia dulcis, L. Congo (not laid in). + Spathodea lævis (?) Dahome. + Sesamum Indicum, var. Ditto. + Plumbago Zeylanica, L. Congo (ditto.) + Clerodendron multiflorum (?), Don. Ditto, imp., Ditto. + Clerodendron sp. Congo. + Lippia sp. Ditto. + Lippia an L. Adoensis? Ditto. + Stachytarphita Jamaicensis, V. Dahome. + Celosia trigyna (?), L. Congo. + Erua lanata Ditto (ditto). + Pupalia lappacea, Moq. Annabom. + Achyranthes involucrata, Moq. Dahome. + Achyranthes argentea (?), Lam. Congo. + Celosia argentea, L. Dahome (ditto). + Amaranthus paniculatus, L. Congo. + Euxolus irridis Congo. + Phyllanthus pentandrus (?) Dahome. + Phyllanthus Nivari, L. Congo. + Acalypha sp. Ditto. + Manihot utilissima (?) Ditto. + Antidesma venosum Ditto. + Euphorbia pilulifera, L. Annabom. + Croton lobatum Dahome. + Phytolacca an P. Abyssinica (?) Congo (bad, not laid in). + Ricinus communis (?) Congo (not laid in). + Phyllanthus sp. Ditto. + Cannabis sativa, L. Ditto (ditto). + Boerhaavia paniculata Ditto (ditto). + Polygonum Senegalense, Meiss Ditto. + Castus Afch. Ditto (ditto). + Aneilema adhærens (?) Ditto. + Aneilema an A. ovato-oblongeum Ditto. + Aneilema Beninense Congo. + Commolyna (?) Dahome. + Fragts. Commolyneæ (not laid in). + Phœnix (?) spadix Congo. + Canna Indica (?) Congo and Annabom. + Chloris Varbata (?), Sw. Congo (not laid in). + Andropogon (Cymbopogon) sp. (?) Ditto. + Andropogon, an Sorghum (?) Ditto (ditto). + Panicum an Oplismenus (?) Ditto (ditto). + Panicum sp. Congo and Annabom. + (?) Eleusine Indica Annabom (not laid in). + Eragrostis megastachya, Lk. Congo. + Leptochloa sp (?) Ditto. + Pennisetum sp. Ditto. + Pennisetum sp. Dahome. + Pennisetum sp. Congo. + Mariscus sp. Annabom. + Cy. flagellatus (?) Hochst Congo. + Cy. sphacelatus Annabom. + Scleria an S. racemosa Congo. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + III. — Heights of Stations, West Coast of Africa, Computed from Observations Made by + Capt. Burton. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1863. feet. + Sept. 9.— On route to Banza + Nokki 1322 + Sept. 11. Nokki 1553 + Sept. 9.— Nokki, on hills 1577\ + above river. 1347 | + " 1393 | + " 1379 | + Sept. 10. " 1404 |- Mean = 1430 feet. + " 1517 | + " 1371 | + " 1467 | + " 1415/ + Sept. 11.— Chingufu above 1656\ + Nokki 1775 | Mean 1703 feet: + " 1769 | See Sept. 18., &c. + Sept. 12. " 1613/ + + Nelongo's Village, lower down 781-\ + and nearer village. 872 | + " 818 | + " 961 |-Mean = 828 feet. + Sept. 13. " 861 | + " 766 | + " 736-/ + Sept. 13.— Cove near Congo River 78 feet. + Sept. 14.— Hills above Banza 315 + River. 411 + " 865 + Sept. 15.— Banza River 179 at level of river. + Banza Nkulu above 1149 \ + rapids. 1172 |-Mean = 1140. + Sept. 16. " 1099 / + Banza Nkulu 1144 \ + " 1270 |-Mean = 1212. + " 1270 | + Sept. 17. " 1162 / + Nelongo's Village– + Negolo 923 + Banza Chingufu 1732 + Sept. 18.— Chingufu. 1711 \ + " 1611 | + " 1697 | + " 1854 | + " 1804 | + Sept. 19. " 1600 |-Mean = 1694 feet. + " 1609 | See Sept. 11. + " 1636 | + " 1751 | + " 1775 | + Sept. 20. " 1586 / + Sept. 21. Boma. 9 \ + " 9 | + " 19 | + " 189 | + Sept. 22. " 9 | + " 57 | + " 135 | + " 76 | + Sept. 23. " 140 | + " 19 | + " 78 |-Mean = 73 feet. + " 124 | + Sept. 24. " 113 | + " 29 | + " 59 | + " 107 | + " 124 | + Sept. 25. " 113 | + " 67 | + " 58 | + " 180 / + Sept. 26.— Porto de Lenha. 38 + Sept. 28.— Banana factory. 94 \ + " 18 | + " 67 | + " 150 | + " 160 | + Sept. 29. " 28 |-Mean = 56 feet. + " 19 | + " 48 | + " 29 | + " 16 | + Sept. 30. " 47 | + " 29 / +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + IV. — (Form of French Passport.) Immigration Africaine. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Ce jourd'hui _______________ mil huit cent soixante _______________ par devant + nous _______________ Commissaire du Gouvernement Français, Agent + d'émigration, conformément à l'article 8 du décret du 27 Mars 1852, assisté de + _______________ témoins requis, a comparu le nommé _______________ noir libre, + né au village de _______________ côte de _______________ âgé de + _______________ lequel nous a déclaré consentir librement et de son plein gré + à partir pour une des Colonies Françaises d'Amérique pour y contracter + l'engagement de travail ci-après détaillé et présenté par M _______________ au + nom de M. Régis, au profit de l'habitant qui sera désigné par l'Administration + locale à son arrivée dans la Colonie. + + Les conditions d'engagement de travail sont les suivantes: + + ART. 1. + + Le nommé ______________________________ s'engage, tant pour les travaux de + culture et de fabrication sucrière &c. que pour tous autres d'exploitation + agricole et industrielle auxquels l'engagiste jugera convenable de l'employer + et généralement pour tous les travaux quelconques de domesticité. + + ART. 2. + + Le présent engagement de travail est de dix années à partir du jour de + l'entrée au service de l'engagiste. L'engagé doit 26 jours de travail + effectifs et complets par mois; les gages ne seront dus qu'après 26 jours de + travail. La journée de travail ordinaire sera celle établie par les règlements + existant dans la Colonie. A l'époque de la manipulation l'engagé sera tenu de + travailler sans augmentation de salaires suivant les besoins de + l'établissement où il sera employé. (The employer can thus overwork his slaves + as much as he pleases.) + + ART. 3. + + L'engagiste aura le droit de céder et transporter à qui bon lui semblera, sous + le contrôle de l'Administration le présent engagement de travail contracté à + son profit. (N.B.—The owner can thus separate families.) + + ART. 4. + + L'engagé sera logé sur l'établissement où il sera employé; il aura droit, de + la part de l'engagiste aux soins médicaux, à sa nourriture, laquelle sera + conforme aux règlements et à l'usage adopté dans la Colonie pour les gens de + travail du pays. Bien entendu que toute maladie contractée par un fait + étranger, soit à ses travaux, soit à ses occupations, sera à ses frais. (Thus + bed and board are at the discretion of the employer, and the gate of fraud is + left open.) + + ART. 5. + + Le salaire de l'engagé est de: 12 francs pour les hommes, + 10 francs pour les femmes, + 8 francs pour les enfants de 10 à 14 ans., + par mois de 26 jours de travail, comme il est dit à l'article 2, à partir de 8 + jours après son débarquement dans la colonie. Moitié de cette somme lui sera + payée fin chaque mois, l'autre moitié le sera fin de chaque année. (Not even + festivals allowed as holidays.) + + ART. 6. + + L'engagé reconnait avoir reçu en avance, du représentant de M. Régis, la somme + de DEUX CENTS FRANCS dont il s'est servi pour sa libération et pour divers + frais à son compte, Ces avances seront retenues sur ses salaires à raison de + par mois. + + ART. 7. + + L'engagé déclare par avance se soumettre aux règlements rendus dans la Colonie + pour la police du travail et de l'immigration. + + ART. 8. + + A l'expiration de son temps d'engagement le rapatriement sera accordé à + l'immigrant pour lui, sa femme, et ses enfants non adultes, à la condition par + celui-ci de verser mensuellement à la Caisse d'immigration le dixième de son + salaire. + + Si l'engagé renonce à son rapatriement, toute somme versée par lui lui sera + remboursée. + + En cas de réengagement les conditions en seront débattues de gré-à-gré entre + l'engagé et le propriétaire engagiste. + + Fait et signé de bonne foi, le + + Certifié par le délégué de + l'administration faisant fonctions + d'Agent d'émigration. +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_FOOT" id="link2H_FOOT"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + FOOTNOTES + </h2> + <p> + <a name="linknote-1" id="linknote-1"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 1 (<a href="#linknoteref-1">return</a>)<br /> [ "Die Deutsche Expedition an + der Loango Küuste, nebst älteren Nachrichten über die zu erforschenden + Länder." Von Adolf Bastian. Jena and London (Trübner and Co.), 1874.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-2" id="linknote-2"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 2 (<a href="#linknoteref-2">return</a>)<br /> [ See "The Lands of the + Cazembe," p. 15, Royal Geographical Society, London, 1873.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-3" id="linknote-3"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 3 (<a href="#linknoteref-3">return</a>)<br /> [ See "The Lands of the + Cazembe" (p. 25, note), where, however, the word has taken the form of + "Impaçeiro." At p. 27, line 6, a parenthesis has been misplaced before and + after "Impalancas," a word differently interpreted by Portuguese writers.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-4" id="linknote-4"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 4 (<a href="#linknoteref-4">return</a>)<br /> [ The Directory and Charts.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-5" id="linknote-5"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 5 (<a href="#linknoteref-5">return</a>)<br /> [ That of the Hydrographic + Office, dated 1863, assigns it to S. Lat. 7° 44', and E. Long. 13° 5'; and + the Granite Pillar to S. Lat. 7° 36' 15", and E. Long. 13° 6' 30".] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-6" id="linknote-6"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 6 (<a href="#linknoteref-6">return</a>)<br /> [ Duarte Lopez, the + Portuguese Captain, whose journals were used by Pigafetta. He went to the + Congo regions in 1578, and stayed there ten years. "Philipp's Voyages," + vol. iii. p. 236.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-7" id="linknote-7"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 7 (<a href="#linknoteref-7">return</a>)<br /> [ "Philipp's Voyages," vol. + iii. p. 236.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-8" id="linknote-8"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 8 (<a href="#linknoteref-8">return</a>)<br /> [ Appendix to Tuckey's + "Expedition," No. 6.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-9" id="linknote-9"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 9 (<a href="#linknoteref-9">return</a>)<br /> [ See the note of the learned + Robert Brown, p. 472, Appendix V., Tuckey's "Congo."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-10" id="linknote-10"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 10 (<a href="#linknoteref-10">return</a>)<br /> [ "Relazione del Reame di + Congo, e delle circonvicine contrade, tratta dagli Scritti e Raggionamenti + di Odoardo Lopez, Portogheze, per Philippo Pigafetta." Roma, 1591, fol.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-11" id="linknote-11"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 11 (<a href="#linknoteref-11">return</a>)<br /> [ "Historia de Etiopia," p. + 65.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-12" id="linknote-12"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 12 (<a href="#linknoteref-12">return</a>)<br /> [ "Geography of N'yassi," + note, p. 51.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-13" id="linknote-13"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 13 (<a href="#linknoteref-13">return</a>)<br /> [ See "Zanzibar City, + Island, and Coast," vol. i. p. 5. "Marinus of Tyre" became by misprint + "mariners of Tyre."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-14" id="linknote-14"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 14 (<a href="#linknoteref-14">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap. xvii. of the Rev. + Mr. Waddell's "Twenty-nine Years in the West Indies and Central Africa."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-15" id="linknote-15"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 15 (<a href="#linknoteref-15">return</a>)<br /> [ "Narrative of a Voyage of + Discovery to Africa and Arabia," by Captain Thomas Boteler. London: + Bentley, 1835; repeated from Owen's "Voyages to Africa, Arabia," &c. + London: Bentley, 1833. Lt. Wolf, R.N., has given an able analysis of this + great surveying undertaking in the "Journal of the Geographical Society," + vol. iii. of 1833.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-16" id="linknote-16"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 16 (<a href="#linknoteref-16">return</a>)<br /> [ See chap. v.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-17" id="linknote-17"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 17 (<a href="#linknoteref-17">return</a>)<br /> [ Of this lake I shall have + something to say in chap. xii.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-18" id="linknote-18"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 18 (<a href="#linknoteref-18">return</a>)<br /> [ See "The Lands of the + Cazembe," p. 24.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-19" id="linknote-19"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 19 (<a href="#linknoteref-19">return</a>)<br /> [ Petermann's "Geog. Mitt." + of 1860, pp. 227-235. I have duly obtained at Pest the permission of + Professor Hunfálvy, who in 1859 edited the Hungarian and German issues, to + translate into English the highly interesting volume, the only remains of + Ladislaus Magyar, the traveller having died, Nov. 19, 1864, after visiting + large and previously unknown tracts of south-western Africa. The work has + been undertaken by the Rev. R. C. G. O'Callaghan, consular chaplain, + Trieste, and I hope that it will soon appear with notes by myself. It will + be a fitting pendant to Dr. de Lacerda's "Journey to the Lands of the + Cazembe."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-20" id="linknote-20"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 20 (<a href="#linknoteref-20">return</a>)<br /> [ "Geog. Mitt." 1857, p. + 190.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-21" id="linknote-21"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 21 (<a href="#linknoteref-21">return</a>)<br /> [ Proofs of the identity of + the Lualaba with the Congo;" translated by Mr. Keith Johnston from the + "Geogr. Mittheilungen," i. 18, Bund, 1872, and published in the + "Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society," No. i, vol. xviii. of + Feb. 24, 1873.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-22" id="linknote-22"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 22 (<a href="#linknoteref-22">return</a>)<br /> [ "The Lands of the + Cazembe," p. 47.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-23" id="linknote-23"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 23 (<a href="#linknoteref-23">return</a>)<br /> [ "Daily Telegraph," Sept. + 6, 1869.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-24" id="linknote-24"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 24 (<a href="#linknoteref-24">return</a>)<br /> [ "Erläuterungen," &c. + Berlin: Dietrich Reimer, 1874.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-25" id="linknote-25"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 25 (<a href="#linknoteref-25">return</a>)<br /> [ Tuckey (p. 214), and the + General Observations prefixed to the Diaries.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-26" id="linknote-26"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 26 (<a href="#linknoteref-26">return</a>)<br /> [ This palm-clapping is + often alluded to in "O Muata Cazembe" (pp. 223 et passim).] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-28" id="linknote-28"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 28 (<a href="#linknoteref-28">return</a>)<br /> [ "Journal of an African + Cruiser," by an Officer of the United States Navy, p. 173. London, 1848. + Tuckey ("Narrative," 132) gives a sketch of the building.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-29" id="linknote-29"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 29 (<a href="#linknoteref-29">return</a>)<br /> [ See frontispiece.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-30" id="linknote-30"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 30 (<a href="#linknoteref-30">return</a>)<br /> [ At the memorable Bath + meeting of the British Association, Sept. 1864.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-31" id="linknote-31"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 31 (<a href="#linknoteref-31">return</a>)<br /> [ Mr. Richard Spruce, + "Ocean Highways," August, 1873, p. 213.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-32" id="linknote-32"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 32 (<a href="#linknoteref-32">return</a>)<br /> [ "Lowlands of the Brazil," + chap. xvii. Tinsleys, 1875. II.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-33" id="linknote-33"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 33 (<a href="#linknoteref-33">return</a>)<br /> [ "Journal of the Royal + Geographical Society," vol. iii. p. 206, 1833.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-35" id="linknote-35"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 35 (<a href="#linknoteref-35">return</a>)<br /> [ In Carli Gramga and + Fomet, evident cacography.] + </p> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TWO TRIPS TO GORILLA LAND AND THE CATARACTS OF THE CONGO *** + +This file should be named 5761-h.htm or 5761-h.zip + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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