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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5861ca3 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #55777 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/55777) diff --git a/old/55777-8.txt b/old/55777-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 710d592..0000000 --- a/old/55777-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9329 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Historical and descriptive narrative of -twenty years' residence in South America (Vol 2 of 3), by William Bennet Stevenson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Historical and descriptive narrative of twenty years' residence in South America (Vol 2 of 3) - Containing travels in Arauco, Chile, Peru, and Colombia, - with an account of the revolution, its rise, progress, and - results - -Author: William Bennet Stevenson - -Release Date: October 19, 2017 [EBook #55777] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RESIDENCE IN SOUTH AMERICA *** - - - - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Martin Pettit and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -+-------------------------------------------------+ -|Transcriber's note: | -| | -|Obvious typographic errors have been corrected. | -| | -+-------------------------------------------------+ - - -[Illustration: YUMBO INDIAN. INDIAN OF THE COLORADS.] - - -A - -HISTORICAL - -AND - -DESCRIPTIVE NARRATIVE - -OF - -TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCE - -IN - -SOUTH AMERICA, - -_IN THREE VOLUMES_; - -CONTAINING TRAVELS IN ARAUCO, CHILE, PERU, AND COLOMBIA; - -WITH AN ACCOUNT OF - -THE REVOLUTION, ITS RISE, PROGRESS, AND RESULTS. - - -BY W. B. STEVENSON, - -FORMERLY PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE PRESIDENT AND CAPTAIN GENERAL OF QUITO -COLONEL, AND GOVERNOR OF ESMERALDAS, CAPTAIN DE FRAGATA, AND LATE -SECRETARY TO THE VICE ADMIRAL OF CHILE,--HIS EXCELLENCY -THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD COCHRANE, &c. - -VOL. II. - -LONDON: - -HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO. -CONSTABLE & Co. AND OLIVER & BOYD, EDINBURGH. - -MDCCCXXV. - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOL. II. - - PAGE -CHAP. I.--Farm of Vinto, Cattle, Grain, &c....First Wheat in -Peru...._Tapiales_, Fences....Trees, Shrubs, -and Plants....Fruit....Animals....Birds....Fish....Appearance of -the Villages...._Balsas_....Indian Feast....Indian -Burial....Paramonga....Palace of Fortalice 1 - -CHAP. II.--Visit to Caxatambo....Roads....Manner of Travelling -....Village of Ocros....Cura of Ditto....Indians....Road to -Chiquian....Town of Chiquian....Crimes....Mining Laws....Method -of working the Ores....Frauds in _Plata Pina_...._Taonas_ and -_Ingenios_....Caxatambo...._Repartimientos_....Manufactures.... -Inhabitants....Amusements....Road from Caxatambo, _Cuesta_....Farm -House and Family....Town of Huaras....Productions of Huailas.... -Manufactures of Ditto....Huaras, excellent Mercantile Situation -....Province of Conchucos....Produce, &c....Mines....Oca.... -Medicinal Plants....Character of Inhabitants....Procession of -St. Peter....Localities in the Province....Enter Huamalies.... -Productions...._Coca_...._Charquis_ Cinchona....Mines....Eagle -Stones....Fruits...._Mulitas_ and _Quiriquineihos_....Character -of Inhabitants....Death of the Inca represented....Observations 24 - -CHAP. III.--General Mode of Travelling from Lima to the -different Provinces....British Manufactures fit for the last -Provinces visited....General Character of the Inhabitants.... -Animals in the Provinces of Huailas, Caxatambo, Conchucos, and -Huamalies....Pagi or Puma....Ucumari....Viscacha....Comadreja -....Ardillas....Gato Montes....Alco....Llama.... Paco....Huanaco -....Vicuna....Mulita....Birds....Condor....Vegetable Productions -....Mineral Ditto....Antiquities....Diseases and Remedies.... -Hydrophobia 75 - -CHAP. IV.--Travels to the North of Lima....Village of Pativilca -....Of Huarmey....Of Casma....Cotton Mill....Santa....River -Santa....Nepena....Farm of Motocachi....Vineyard....Port of -Santa...._Tambo de Chao_....Viru....Truxillo....Itinerary -between Lima and Truxillo....Description of Truxillo....Building -....Inhabitants....Climate....Commerce....Jurisdiction....Arms -....Plain _de Chimu_...._Huaca de Toledo_....Tradition of.... -Huanchaco Port....Valleys of Chimu, Chicama, and Viru.... -Productions....Road to Caxamarca....Contumasa....Magdalena....Gold -Mines....View of Caxamarca....Origin of Name of....Description -of....Buildings....Inhabitants....Arts and Manufactures -of....Visit to San Pablo....Market of Caxamarca....Trade of....Hot -Baths....Description of 107 - -CHAP. V.--Historical Sketch of Caxamarca, Huaina Capac, Huascar -Inca, and Atahualpa....Arrival of Pizarro at Tumpis....At -Caxamarca....Spanish Embassy....Harangue of Soto....Answer of -Atahualpa....Visit of Atahualpa to Pizarro....Discourse of Friar -Vicente Valverde, to Atahualpa....Answer of Atahualpa.... -Imprisonment of....Offered Ransom of....Cause of the Jealousy of -Pizarro....Arrivals of Treasure....Accusation, for the Trial of -Atahualpa....Sentence, Baptism, Execution, and Burial of -....Interesting Remains in Caxamarca 142 - -CHAP. VI.--Province of Caxamarca....Manufactures, Mines....Village -de Jesus....Hawking....Farm of Lagunilla....Inga Tambo....Village -of San Marcos....Feast....Wedding....Village of Ichocan....Mine -of Gualgayoc....Return to the Coast....Village of Chocope....Of -San Pedro....Of Las Lagunas....Of Monsefu....Town of Lambayeque -....Inhabitants, Buildings, New Altar....Manufactures, Soap, -Cordovans, Cotton Goods, Sweetmeats....Fruits, Grain, Pulse -....Vegetables....Market...._Algarroba_, Carob Tree....Village -of Eten....Of Morrope...._Simarones_....Desert of Sechura....Town -of Sechura....City of Piura....Inhabitants, Buildings....Mules -....Manufactures....Climate....Effect on Syphilis....Commerce.... -Port of Paita....Excellent Situation for an Astronomical -Observatory 166 - -CHAP. VII.--Leave Lima for Guayaquil...._Amortajado_....Puna -....Arrival of the Spaniards, and Conquest of....Village of -....Inhabitants....Passage up the River Guayaquil...._Punta de -Arena_....Guayaquil....Foundation and Description of....Buildings -....Inhabitants....Amusements....Market....Fruit....Climate.... -Insects and Reptiles....Dock Yard....Project of Sawing Mills.... -Balsa, Description of....Navigation of....Canoes....Merchants -of Guayaquil 199 - -CHAP. VIII.--Productions of the Province of Guayaquil....Cocoa -....Cultivation....Harvest....Tobacco....Timber....Salt....Cattle -....Minor Articles of Trade...._Turbines_ found at Santa Elena -....Large Bones, &c....Animals, _Perico_, _Ligero_....Monkeys -...._Iguanas_....Toucanes...._Trompeteros_....Snakes.... -Curiquinqui, Snake-eater...._Huaco_, Antidote for the Bite of -Snakes...._Lagartos_, Alligators, Description of....Methods of -Killing....Fishermen....Mineral Productions 227 - -CHAP. IX.--Journey from Guayaquil to Quito....Babaoyo....Road to -Chimbo...._Cuesta de San Antonio_....Arrival at Huaranda.... -Triumphal Arch and Harangue....Description of Huaranda and -Province of Chimbo....Chimboraso....Accident at la Ensillada -....Road to San Juan...._Obrage_ of Indians....Arrival at -Riobamba....Description of....Remains of Old Riobamba....Visit -to an old Cacique....Province of Riobamba....Road to Ambato -....Description of....Produce....Arrival of Tacunga....Description -of....Earthquakes at....Ruins of Callo....Provincial Produce -....Arrival at Chisinchi, Ensillada, and Quito....Remarks 257 - -CHAP. X.--Quito, Foundation and Situation....Plasa Mayor.... -President's Palace, Bishop's Palace and Cathedral....Parishes -....Convents and Public Buildings....Jesuit's College....Convent -of San Francisco....San Diego....Santa Prisca....Santa Clara -....University....College of San Luis....Of San Fernando.... -Houses....Government....Nobility....Population....White -Creoles....Occupation and Education....Character of....Mestisos -Persons, Character, Employment....Dress of Creoles....Of -Mestisos....Of Indians....Diversions, Bull-fight and Masquerade -....Dancing....Music....Religious Procession....Market, Meat, -Fruit and Vegetables....Spirituous Liquors....Ices, Confectionary -....Cheese....Trade and Commerce 279 - -CHAP. XI.--Visit of the Academicians to Quito in 1736.... -Inscription left by....Climate of Quito....View of Mountains at -....Description of Chimboraso....Of Cayambe-urcu....Of Antisana -....Of Cotopaxi....Of Pichincha....Of El Altar....Description of -the fertility of the Valleys....Mines....Ruins of Temples, Palaces, -and Fortified Places....Account of the Indians....Of Commerce 320 - -CHAP. XII.--Villa of Ibarra, Description....Villa of Otavala, -Description....Lakes San Pablo and Cuicocha....Visit to the River -Mapo....Gold Mines on the Banks of....Indians pay their Tribute in -Gold....Bæza, the Capital of the District....Description of the -Inhabitants, &c....Commissioned by the Government to explore a -Road from the Capital to the nearest Point of the Coast.... -Maldonado's Road....Leave Quito....Cross the Skirts of Pichincha, -arrive at the River Piti....Description of the Country.... -Description of Piti....Proceed to Esmeraldas....Description of -the River of Jaguar....Houses, Plantations, Cattle....Method of -Distilling Rum....Food of the Inhabitants...._Saino_ Tatabra, -and _Aguti_, or Huatus....Monkey and Charapa....Method of -Killing Game with the _Sorbetana_ and Poisoned _Pua_ 346 - -CHAP. XIII.--Continuation of Esmeraldas; Fish caught in the -River...._Chautisa_, method of taking....Preserving of.... -Method of catching Fish in the River....Of Cooking it....Yucas, -Camotes, Yams....Palmettos....Tobacco....Cocoa....New variety -of....Occupation of the Esmeraldenos....Origin of....Language -....Dress....Manners and Character of....Religion....Re-ascend -the Esmeraldas River, to the Embarcadero de Maldonado....Mouth -of the River....City of Esmeraldas....Road to Atacames....Port -of....Town of...._Manzanillo_....Rio Verdo....La Tola....Country -Produce, Timber, and Wood....Coutchouc....Fruit Palms.... -Animals....Mines....Conclusion 379 - -CHAP. XIV.--Visit to Cayapas....Village....Inhabitants....Houses -and Furniture....Visit to the Malabas, Wild Indians....Arrival at -the Vijia....Interview with the Cacique, Family of.... Tribe of -the Malabas....Tradition of the Origin of....Dress of....Manners -....Laws....Return to Cayapas....Visit Tumaco....Description of -....Barbacoas....Description of....Gold Mines....Manner of Working -them....Leave the Coast, Malbucho Road....River Mira...._Puentes -de Maroma_, and _Taravitas_...._Piquigua_....Arrive at -Ibarra, and return to Rio Verde and Esmeraldas....Ascend the River -Quinindi....Boa Constrictors....Santo Domingo de los Colorados -....Indians....Dress....Houses....Food Cocaniguas....Quito 408 - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - Farm of Vinto, Cattle, Grain, &c....First Wheat in - Peru...._Tapiales_, Fences....Trees, Shrubs, and - Plants....Fruit....Animal....Birds, Fish....Appearance of the - Villages...._Balsas_....Indian Feast....Indian - Burial....Paramonga....Palace or Fortalice. - - -On the side of the river opposite to Huaito I visited the farm of Vinto, -which from the purposes to which it is dedicated may be considered as -something like an English farm. Horned cattle are bred in considerable -numbers; the cows rear the calves, and are seldom milked. Dr. Robertson -speaks of a degeneration of animals in America, "in the Spanish colonies -within the torrid zone, or bordering on it;" but he certainly was -misinformed with respect to Peru; the cattle is not so large as in -Lincolnshire, but, taking the average, it is as large as the English, -French, and Spanish cattle: when fed on lucern the meat is -well-flavoured, fat, and juicy, and the bones are very small. At Vinto -great numbers of pigs are reared, and are said to pay very well. Barley -is sown at a time which allows it to be in ear in the littering season, -when the sows are turned on it, and remain until it is all eaten down: -the young pigs are then separated from the old ones, and driven to a -field of lucern, where they are kept till they are fit for market; this -takes place when they are from ten to sixteen months old, at which age -they sell at from six to nine dollars each, if of a good breed for -fattening. Few sheep are bred on the coast, to which during some months -of the year large flocks are driven from the interior, and fattened for -the Lima market; many of these are ewes in-lamb, particularly those -brought down in November and December; and the common bargain between -the drover and the farmer is, to give the lambs for the pasturage, by -which means the farmer obtains a sufficient number of sheep to supply -him with mutton, calculating on receiving a hundred and fifty lambs for -every hundred ewes. Besides this increase in sheep, which is greater -than in England, the ewes bear twice a year in South America--in general -the lambing season is in June and December. - -The breed of horses and mules at Vinto was of little extent, but some of -the latter were very good; the ordinary ones for carriers would sell for -forty-five or fifty dollars each, while the prime mules would fetch a -hundred or a hundred and fifty. - -A considerable quantity of wheat is harvested at Vinto, as well as on -the neighbouring farms and near the surrounding villages; it is sown and -ploughed in, and irrigated three or sometimes four times during its -growth; after it is cut, it is thrown into a heap, and the grain trodden -out by horses; it is then cleared from the chaff, by throwing it up in -the wind, as in Chile, and it generally yields from fifty to -seventy-fold. - -The first wheat was carried to Lima in the year 1535, by Doņa Maria de -Escobar, wife of Doņ Diego de Chares; the quantity consisted of but a -few grains, which she cultivated herself. In the true spirit of the age -and country, she invited all her friends to celebrate the first harvest -of new wheat in the new world, not knowing that it had been produced in -Mexico in 1528, by a negro slave belonging to Cortes, who accidentally -found a few grains mixed among the rice which was supplied to the army. -To commemorate the happy event in Lima, Doņa Maria presented to each of -her friends a few grains, and it is said that some ears were laid as an -offering on the altar of the Dominican church. The first wheat at Quito -was sown near to the Franciscan convent, by Father Jose Rixi, who -carried his seed thither from Europe in a small earthen jar, which yet -exists in the convent, and is exhibited to visitors; it is of baked -clay, and will hold about a quart. Among the relics shown to me, in -1809, I admired none so much as this: a circumstance which rather -disconcerted the pious sacristan who shewed them to me. The historian, I -should think, must feel greater pleasure in recording the name of the -individual who has promoted the welfare and contributed to the comforts -of his fellow creatures, than in sounding the trumpet of fame to that of -a hero whose glory reposes on the mangled bodies of thousands of his -comrades, slaughtered to add a letter to the name of the victor, and not -unfrequently to bind the chains of thraldom round the necks of the -vanquished. - -Maize, beans of five or six varieties, lentils, garbansos, camotes, -yucas, and potatoes are cultivated by the farmer for home consumption, -as well as for the Lima market; the slaves also grow the same articles, -and on a Sunday take their produce to the neighbouring villages to sell. - -The fields on these plantations and farms are generally divided by -walls, called _tapiales_: these are formed of large square masses of -clay or earth, sometimes mixed with stones, each being about four feet -long, two thick, and two broad, and are called _adobones_; the walls -are sometimes four and sometimes six feet high, being composed of two or -three layers of adobones. They are made by laying a frame of wood on the -ground, composed of two sides and one end, the sides being secured at -the other by thongs of raw hide; the earth on one side the box or frame -is then wetted with water, dug over once or twice, and put into the -frame, _adobera_, where it is trodden hard, or beaten with a heavy -rammer; more earth is thrown in, and again pressed down, until the frame -is quite full, when the top is smoothed over with a wooden trowel and -some water. The frame is removed by untying the thongs, which allows the -sides of the adobera to open a little, and to separate freely from the -adobon, which is smoothed with the trowel or hand with a little water; -the frame is now placed with its open end to the adobon which is -finished, and another is made and placed adjoining to it by the same -process. When a second or third tier is raised, two pieces of plank or -scantling are laid on the lower adobon, to support the frame, which is -filled as before; the scantlings are then drawn out and the frame -removed; the holes are sometimes filled up, and sometimes left open. -When stones are mixed with the clay or earth they are usually placed -along the sides of the frame, the centre being filled up with earth, to -which cut straw is occasionally added, particularly when the soil is -rather sandy. These fences are very durable; a ditch is formed on one or -both sides, according to the will of the master, and the earth dug out -serves to make the wall, and at the same time secures it from being -undermined by the water, which would be injurious to the foundation. In -those parts of Peru where it rains, small bundles of brush wood are put -across the top of the tapial, and clay laid on them to prevent the rain -from penetrating: if tiles were substituted they would answer much -better. - -I have been rather minute in describing these walls, being convinced -that with a few improvements they would be found preferable to some -fences used in England; indeed the easy method of building them deserves -to be communicated to those who are in the habit of constructing fence -walls instead of hedges, a common practice in our hilly countries. As a -proof of their duration, many of these clay fences are now standing on -the coast of Peru, and of those cased with stone in the interior, built -more than three centuries ago, by the indians, before the Spaniards -discovered their country. - -The trees that afford any timber in this neighbourhood are the molle -and espino, or huarango; from the latter excellent charcoal is made, and -considerable quantities are carried to Lima. Senna is found in abundance -in the hedges, and willows and poplars become very lofty. The indigo -plant grows spontaneously in the fields; I have sometimes observed -cochineal on the cactus, cultivated for its fruit, the prickly pear, but -of an inferior quality; in the interior it is called _pilcay_, and from -some cotton cloth which I have found in the huacas, it is evident that -the ancient Peruvians were acquainted with its colouring principle, this -as well as the indigo being among the fillets taken out of the huacas. -They procure the yellow tint at present by steeping the berries of the -molle in water, and afterwards a quantity of maize; wool dyed in this -water takes a bright and permanent yellow. A tree of the mimosa tribe, -called Tara, bears a quantity of pods which contain a large portion of -tanin; ink is generally made from an infusion of these pods, by adding -to it some sulphate of iron. The fragrant floripondio grows in many of -the hedges, assisted by the odorous ņorbo, a small species of passion -flower, which emits in the evening a most delightful fragrance. The -prickly apple, holy thistle, and many other medicinal plants grow wild, -with the virtues and applications of which the indians are well -acquainted. The maguey is very common; it makes a good hedge, no animal -daring to pass it, on account of the large prickles with which the point -of each leaf is armed. It may be said, that this is one of the most -useful plants at present known. Of the flower stalks the indians build -their houses, and cover them with its large leaves; the fibrous part may -be converted into thread and woven for clothing, while its sharp pointed -prickles are a good substitute for needles. Before the flower stem makes -its appearance, if the heart of the plant be cut out, and a hollow place -made in the centre, it will be filled in ten or twelve hours with a -thick syrup, which may be used instead of sugar; when this is mixed with -water and fermented, it forms the favourite Mexican beverage _pulque_; -of this juice vinegar may be made, or brandy distilled from it: if the -leaves are bruised and pressed, they produce by boiling a balsamic -syrup, used to cleanse and cure ulcers; the leaves are also used instead -of soap: the clothes are wetted, and then beaten with a leaf which has -been crushed; a thick white froth is produced, and after rincing, the -clothes are quite clean. The flower buds are very delicate eating when -boiled or pickled. Of the aloes this is the largest species; here are -two varieties, the leaves of the one being of a deep green inclining to -black, while those of the other are of a beautiful pale green; the -latter is the more useful of the two varieties. - -A tree called _del jaboncillo_ grows in the hedges; it has the -appearance of the laurel, and produces a quantity of round fruit, of the -size of small plums; a hard kernel is enclosed in a tough rind, which -when ripe contains a pulpy matter; this, on being mixed with water, -produces a white froth, and is used instead of soap for washing. - -In some gardens the _achote_ is cultivated; this tree is seldom above -ten feet high, the leaves are heart-shaped, and the seeds are enclosed -in a prickly capsule about three inches long; they are covered with an -unctuous matter, of a vermilion colour, and are thrown into hot water, -and afterwards strained, when the liquor is boiled to the consistency of -paste, and forms the annotta dye. The natives often use it as a spice, -or as a colouring matter for their food. - -_Mani_ is also cultivated; the plant is very frondiferous, is about two -feet high, and has white flowers; but the mani, or nuts, are attached -to the roots; they are about the size of horse beans, and when roasted -or boiled are delicate eating; they contain a considerable quantity of -oil, of a beautiful green colour, which is obtained by pressure; it is -equally palatable with the best olive oil. The root is remarkably -nutritive, and very agreeable to eat when on a long journey. - -A tree called _pilco_ grows in the hedge rows; the leaves are lancet -formed, and the branches very straight; the fruit is like that of the -common laurel. If a person remain but a short time under the shade of -this tree when the sun shines, swellings and pustules make their -appearance on the face and arms, or any other naked part of the body. -The juice is extremely caustic, and ulcerates the skin wherever it -touches; on which account it is called in the Quichua language -_capsicarancha_, the itch tree. When it is necessary to cut down any of -these trees, a fire is made at the foot of them, and their offensive -property is destroyed. - -The plant which produces the castor bean, from which the castor oil is -obtained, grows wild; the oil is often extracted by the natives, and on -some sugar plantations it is used for the purpose of burning in lamps. -One variety of this plant produces very large beans, which are called -_piņones_: it grows about six feet high; the leaves are somewhat like -those of the vine; the beans are enclosed in prickly capsules, each -containing two beans, which have a thin black shell, and very white -kernel; two or three of these chewed and swallowed prove a violent -purgative. The natives extract the oil and apply it to the abdomen in -cases of dropsy; they also dilute a small quantity in urine, and pour -one or two drops into the ear, in cases of deafness or a pain in the -ear. - -During the damp season, in foggy months, a species of cactus grows on -the _lomas_ or sand hills which produces a fruit called _caimito_; this -resembles in shape a large cucumber; it is first green, afterwards -brown, with yellow stripes, and when ripe it is red. The taste is an -agreeable subacid; but after eating the fruit a very disagreeable -feeling is left on the lips, which is removed by rubbing them with a -piece of the rind. The fruit is remarkably fragrant, and on this account -it is frequently kept in the houses. - -In the garden at Huaito there were a few plants of coffee; they were -very healthy and bore fruit abundantly. Cotton of a good quality grows -near the cottages of the indians, who always cultivate a few plants for -their own consumption; among these plants I have observed many bearing -cotton of a nankeen colour, but of this they seldom make any use. - -Quantities of small lizards are to be seen on every heap of rubbish or -stones, particularly when the sun shines, busily employed in catching -flies, on which they appear to subsist; I have frequently watched them -while seizing their prey. As soon as they observe a fly on the sand they -creep out of their holes and make their advance with a slow and almost -imperceptible motion; they place themselves in a right line with the -object, and then make a dart at it open mouthed, and swallow it in a -moment, very rarely missing it. They are often beautifully striped with -green, yellow, and brown, and are generally about eight inches long. On -some parts of the coast the indians eat them; they cut off the tail and -the feet and fry the body, which has then the appearance of a fried -smelt. I ate some at San Pedro, and believed them to be the peje rey -until I was undeceived. The indians consider them as a medicinal food -for persons afflicted with cutaneous diseases. - -The opossum is found in all the valleys of the coast; it is about two -feet long including the tail, which is as long as the body; the nose is -pointed like that of a hog, and has no hair on it from the eyes to the -mouth; the ears are thin, without any hair on them, and stand erect; -the feet are also naked and small, and it holds its meat with its fore -paws, like a monkey; the body is covered with hair, black at the roots -and white at the points, which gives it a shady grey colour; the tail is -slender and naked, and by it the animal can hang suspended to the branch -of a tree. The female brings forth four or five young ones at a time, -not larger than mice when first born, and they immediately betake -themselves to the pouch under the belly of their mother. The pouch is -formed by a fold of the skin, hairy on the outside and covered with a -very soft down or fur on the inside; the nipples are so situated, that -the young ones can suck them as they are carried about by their mother; -when about the size of full grown mice they leave the pouch by an -opening in the centre, and bask in the sun, but if any danger threaten -them they immediately take refuge in their natural home. I one day -caught an old opossum by the tail, when four of her young ones ran out; -I chased and captured two of them; they immediately hid themselves by -running up the inside of my coat sleeves; I took them home, reared them, -and they became perfectly domesticated, were very tame, and would sleep -on the same mat with a dog. They feed on fruit or esculents, will eat -flesh, and are particularly fond of eggs. The indians esteem them as -food, but I never had an opportunity of eating any. The natives -sometimes call the opossum _mochilera_, from _mochila_, a knapsack; the -indians call it _mucamuca_. - -The aņas of Peru is a species of pole cat, and is nearly the size of a -domestic cat; its colour is a deep brown approaching to black, with a -line of round white spots extending from the nose to the tail; the head -is long, the ears broad and covered with hair, the eyes large with small -black pupils, the nose sharp like the opossum; the upper lip is shorter -than the lower one, which projects, and the mouth contains twelve -incisorial, four canine, and sixteen grinding teeth. The hind legs are -longer than the fore, and each foot has five toes, armed with long sharp -nails, with which it burrows into the ground, and forms a place of -security for its young. When walking it carries its head down, and its -tail, which is bushy, is turned on the back like that of a squirrel. - -Under the tail and above the vent is a small vesicle, which contains a -remarkably fetid oily liquid. When attacked or in danger this animal -elevates its posteriors and forcibly ejects upon its assailant this -pestiferous fluid, the loathsome effects of which nothing can exceed. -Clothes that are in the least sprinkled with it become totally useless, -for no washing will take off the stench; in the same manner, it will not -leave the body, if any part happen to come in contact with it, until the -cuticle or surface skin comes off. If a dog by chance receive any of it -on his body he immediately runs to the water, rolls himself in the mud, -howls, and appears almost mad, nor will he eat any thing for several -days, or until the stench begins to abate--this defence is the only one -of which the aņas ever avails itself. - -Conscious of his offensive powers, the aņas is not alarmed at the -approach of either men or dogs; it always passes them fearlessly, indeed -both generally make way, lest by opposition they might subject -themselves to its nauseous and abominable filth, and become disgusting -even to themselves by being wetted with its matter. - -The skin of the aņas has a beautiful long soft fur, and is quite free -from any disagreeable smell. The animal feeds on poultry and eggs, and -is very annoying, for no one chooses to risk the killing of it: when -this is effected, it is generally with a trap, but should it be killed -in a village or near a house, the smell is quite a nuisance to the -neighbourhood for several days. - -Some few snakes are found in the hedges, but they are quite harmless. -The _alacran_, scorpion, is venomous, but not more painful than the -sting of a wasp. - -Of the feathered tribe the majestic _condor_ stands most conspicuous, -whether on the ground extending its wings, which often measure fourteen -feet from tip to tip, or soaring among the clouds, in appearance not -larger than a swallow. The flight of this bird is truly majestic; it -rises with an almost imperceptible tremulous motion of the wings, and -falls to the ground in the same manner; it pounces on its prey, if a -lamb or any other small animal, and bears it off in its talons to some -neighbouring mountain; if the prey be too large, the condor will feed on -it till unable to fly, when it becomes itself the easy prey of the -villagers, who run it down and kill it with clubs. - -The _gallinaso_, or turkey buzzard, as it is sometimes called, from its -resemblance to a turkey, is a very useful bird; it is the public -scavenger, devours all kinds of carrion, and on this account is seldom -or never killed. - -A few small eagles and hawks are troublesome among the poultry, and -destroy great numbers. Wild ducks frequent the mouths of the rivers, -where we find gulls and other aquatic birds, among which we frequently -discover the pelican. - -The singing birds are the _cilguero_, a kind of linnet; the blackbird, -resembling in size and note the English blackbird; the _titupuying_, -which is something like the cardinal. A species of wood pigeon is very -common, and in allusion to its note is called coo coo lee; it is easily -tamed, and will coo at any hour of the night, if a candle be lighted, -but never more than three times before it ceases or rests. - -Some of the rivers have plenty of _lisa_, a species of mullet, _peje -rey_, and _camarones_; the sea fish on the coast are _corbina_, _chita_, -_jureles_, a kind of mackerel, _peje rey_, and _lenguado_, a species of -turbot. Shell fish is scarce, but small muscles and limpets are -generally found. The natives cook and eat a sea weed which grows on the -rocks, known by the name of _yuyo de la mar_. On the shore among the -sand a small white stone is found, called _piedra del ojo_, or _limpia -ojos_; it is about the size of a lentil, and of an opaque white colour; -the natives pretend that by putting one of them under the eyelid, it -will travel round the eye, and then fall out, bringing with it any -extraneous matter that may have been lodged in this delicate organ. - -The villages along the coast have a very neat appearance; the houses are -but one story high, with a capacious corridor in front; some of them are -supported by pillars made of sun-dried bricks, some round, others -square; while others are composed of bundles of canes lashed together -and covered with clay, with arches made of the same materials. The whole -front is white-washed, and a comfortable promenade is produced under the -grotesque piazzas, a range of seats sometimes extending the length of -ten or twelve houses; and here in the cool of a summer evening the -villagers sit, or lay their mats on the ground and sleep. In those -villages where the population consists of creoles and indians few of the -latter build their houses in the busy part of the village; they prefer -living on their own small chacras, or the allotments of land which they -possess. - -A low table, a few pots and pans to cook in, and some calabashes to eat -and drink out of, compose the furniture of an indian's cottage. Mats of -_totora_, a long rush which grows in swampy ground, are their seats, of -which rushes they sometimes make the walls of their cottages, by tying -them up in small bundles, putting these close together, and securing -them with canes placed horizontally on each side, and tied together at -certain distances. They also form _balsas_ of them; for this purpose, -they tie together as many as make the middle of the balsa, about two -yards in circumference, which they taper to a point at each end; they -then shape it like a crescent by winding round it ropes of the totora. -Seated on the centre of this original boat, they take their nets and go -two or three leagues out to sea, and I never heard of any accident -happening to the fishermen. As the person who navigates in this manner -must sit astride, the indians often call their balsas _potrillos_, -colts; and the appearance of a fleet of them floating on a smooth sea in -a calm evening is very beautiful. - -When dry, the balsa only weighs a few pounds, so that on one mule the -fisherman can carry his boat, his net, and even sufficient materials to -build his hut: in this manner they range up and down the coast in search -of fish, which they often salt and take either to Lima or some other -market. One kind of net is perfectly round when laid open on the ground; -the circumference has several pieces of lead attached to it, and in the -centre a rope is tied: when used they collect about half the net on the -right arm, throw it into the water, and allow it to sink to the bottom; -they then draw the line fastened to the centre, and as the net rises, -the leads close by their own weight, and the fish are thus secured. With -this umbrella net, as I used to call it, they often catch large -quantities of fish in the rivers, lakes, and among the surf on the sea -shore--the indians name the net ataraya. - -When an indian celebrates the feast of some particular saint, he -provides a dinner for all who choose to partake of it; mats are laid on -the ground, and the cloth along the middle of them; large calabashes of -chicha, some holding five or six gallons, are placed on the cloth, with -a number of smaller ones, holding about a pint, ranged on each side; the -men seat themselves, and the women bring in large dishes of beef, cut -into pieces about two inches square, and stewed with lard, a quantity of -capsicum, and the juice of sour oranges. Spoons are placed on the table, -if I may so call it, but the fingers supply the place of forks--knives -are very seldom wanted, and small calabashes serve instead of plates: -when these dishes are removed the chicha goes merrily round. The second -course of dishes is generally filled with fowls stewed with some kind of -vegetables, but not picante, seasoned with _agi_, capsicum pods; after -this course follows a _pepian_, consisting of turkey stewed with rice -flour, water, onions, garlic, cayenne pepper, and lard; sometimes peje -reyes, smelts, merely laid for five or six hours in the juice of sour -oranges, and green capsicum pods are brought in; and, lastly, the -favourite dish of cuyes, guinea pigs, highly seasoned with cayenne -pepper. Between each course the chicha circulates freely, and the -company often rise pretty merry; after which they mount their horses and -call for the stirrup cup; the mistress of the feast then goes out with a -large pongo, calabash of chicha, and distributes a small one to each of -the guests, who frequently joke with her about love affairs; indeed, I -have often heard very witty repartees on such occasions. After the men -are gone, the women sit down and enjoy their dinner in some other -room--not unfrequently in the kitchen; but they abstain almost entirely -from the chicha or any other intoxicating liquors. - -On the death of an indian, his relatives immediately repair to the -house, and place themselves round the corpse, which is laid on the -ground, and wail over him in a kind of plaintive ditty; they mourn his -departure, asking him "Why he left them so soon?" with other similar -questions, enumerating also all his actions, kindnesses, &c. If the -deceased leave a widow, she will sing over him, and recount the tales he -told when he courted her, say where they first met, mention other things -that would be as well forgotten, and conclude with, "Why have you gone -and left me? But some other loved you as well as myself, and she has -bewitched you to death, she has sucked your blood, and she will now be -happy." When this lamentation ceases, a relative will approach the -house, and begin the wail again, all the company joining, and repeating -theirs; the dirge is continued with little interruption until the corpse -is buried. - -About five miles from Patavilca, and a hundred and twenty from Lima, is -a place called Paramonga, or the Fortalesa. The ruins of a fortified -palace of very great extent are here visible; the walls are of tempered -clay, about six feet thick; the principal building stood on an eminence, -but the walls were continued to the foot of it, like regular -circumvallations; the ascent winded round the hill, like a labyrinth, -having many angles, which probably served as outworks to defend the -place. It is supposed to have belonged to the Chimu or King of -Mansichi, and was a frontier palace during the time of the Incas. The -oral tradition of the indians says, that at this place the Chimu did -homage to Pachacutec, the tenth Inca. Near these ruins is a high rock, -which overhangs the sea, called _el serro de la horca_, gallows' hill, -because from the top of it all criminals were formerly thrown into the -sea. Near the Fortalesa is a very extensive ruin of a town, and a -manufactory of saltpetre is established. The salt is obtained by filling -large cisterns with the sand taken from the graves or huacas; water is -poured on it, and having filtered through the sand, it is drawn off; -this is next evaporated and put into large canoes, in which the salt -crystallizes. The nitre is very pure, and is carried to Lima and sold at -the powder mills. Considerable treasure, both in gold and silver -ornaments, has been found, when taking the sand out of the huacas; -beside which many curiosities in earthenware, porphyry, basalt and other -stones, as well as cotton and woollen garments, have been collected. The -value of treasure dug up by different individuals in the year 1813 -exceeded twenty thousand dollars. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - Visit to Caxatambo....Roads....Manner of Travelling....Village of - Ocros....Cura of Ditto....Indian....Road to Chiquian....Town of - Chiquian....Crimes....Mining Laws....Method of working the - Ores....Frauds in _Plata Piņa_...._Taonas_ and - _Ingenios_....Caxatambo...._Repartimientos_....Manufactures.... - Inhabitants....Amusements....Road from Caxatambo, _Cuesta_ - ....Farm House and Family....Town of Huara....Productions of - Huailas....Manufactures of Ditto....Huaras, excellent Mercantile - Situation....Province of Conchucos....Produce, &c....Mines.... - Oca....Medicinal Plants....Character of Inhabitants....Procession - of St. Peter....Localities in the Province....Enter Huamalies.... - Productions...._Coca_...._Charquis_....Cinchona....Mines....Eagle - Stones....Fruits...._Mulitas_ and _Quiriquineihos_....Character of - Inhabitants....Death of the Inca represented....Observations. - - -In 1806 I visited Caxatambo, the capital of a district, _partido_, -bearing the same name. My route was by the _quebrada_, ravine of -Barranca, which contains two large sugar plantations and several large -farms. I rested the first night at Cochas, a small village, and was most -hospitably treated by Don Manuel Requena, a man who had amassed -considerable property by purchasing cattle in the interior and driving -it down on the coast to fatten on lucern, for the Lima market. The -following morning I began to wind up the ravine, which, after traversing -the bridge of cords already described, becomes much narrower, sometimes -so much so, that the passes are dangerous; a gallery is cut in the rock -at one of them a hundred and seventy yards long, but so narrow, that it -would be impracticable for two mules to pass each other; nor is it -possible to make room in the emergency of meeting a traveller. On one -side the mountain is either perpendicular, or it hangs over the heads of -those who pass, threatening to fall and crush them; while on the other -hand, about four hundred feet below the path, the river foams and roars -as it descends towards the coast, having another lofty mountain on the -opposite side. What man could travel on a road like this, and not -shudder to hear the name of an earthquake mentioned; particularly when -he looks on the broken and rugged rocks, and supposes that one of those -dreadful convulsions of the earth may have opened the road on which he -treads, and that such another shock would bury him in the ruins! - -Our mode of travelling would have been regarded in England as a -curiosity; a friend and myself were mounted on two mules, with huge deep -saddles covered with red woolly rugs, large wooden box stirrups, broad -girths, and straps attached to the saddles both behind and before; -these straps passed round the breasts and hams of the mules to prevent -the saddles from slipping as we rode up and down the _cuestas_, some of -which are exceedingly steep. I had two mules laden with my luggage; on -the one was placed my mattress and bedding, put into a large leather -case, called an _almaufres_; on the other were two _petacas_, or square -trunks, made of untanned bullocks' hides, and curiously wrought with -thongs of the same material. My comrade had two mules also laden in a -similar manner; for, when travelling in any part of South America that I -visited, it is almost always necessary to take a bed, because no inns or -houses of accommodation are found on the roads, or even in the towns or -cities. Our peon or muleteer generally followed the mules, while we -proceeded on before; but on approaching a village or hamlet, the peon -alighted, and tied the mules together, fastening the halter of one to -the tail of another, to prevent them from straggling. - -About four o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Ocros, a small -village, where the indians were all prepared to go to Cochas the -following day, to repair the bridge. This task is annually imposed on -them jointly with those of the neighbouring villages, who pass it toll -free, while other passengers pay a real or one-eighth of a dollar: the -money is kept to provide food for the indians who assemble to assist in -the repairs; they employ a week at the work, although it might be -finished in a day; but it is rather a week of feasting than of labour. -About thirty mules, all laden with _cabulleria_, as it is called, made -from the maguey, were collected in the plasa, or square, and there -appeared to be as much bustle as if an army had been removing its camp. - -My companion was known to the _cura_, rector, to whose house he took me, -and we were entertained with his best cheer and most cheerful -hospitality. The cura complained bitterly of a want of society in his -place of exile, _destierro_, as he called it, and jocosely said, that if -the Pope himself were cura of Ocros, he would wish to have a wife to -keep him in good humour: excepting, said he, when a traveller passes -this way, I hear no news, and know of nothing that occurs in the world -which I have left. I often welcome the arrival of a pedlar, to whom I -would not even have spoken at Lima, but here he seems to me like -something dropt from the clouds, and his words and actions delight me, -because they savour of my beloved Lima. - -The village or rather hamlet of Ocros is situated on an eminence; the -climate is cold, and although but eleven leagues from the coast, it is -subject to heavy rains. The inhabitants are for the most part indians, -who have some few small flocks of sheep and goats; they labour on the -neighbouring farms, and on the whole live miserably. Barley, maize, and -milk from their goats are their principal food, and a coarse suit of -clothes will generally wear out the life of its owner; the contrast -between these indians and those on the coast in regard to their manner -of living surprised me not a little:--more ragged and dirty in their -appearance, their small huts containing but one room having the fire in -the middle of it, without any windows, and the absence of every thing -that might contribute to their comfort:--indeed their stock of household -goods made a most miserable shew. I inquired into the cause of this -penury, and was informed by the cura, that their vicinity to the coast -allowed them, if they could purchase a mule, to fetch small quantities -of brown sugar, _chancaca_, and fruit, and to take them to Chiquian and -other towns in the interior, to sell, and that they usually spent in -eating and drinking the small profits which they derived; they thought, -he said, but little of their homes; but left the women to till their -plots of ground, to tend their sheep and goats, and to provide for their -families. Here the Quichua language begins to be spoken; the indians use -no other among themselves, and many of the women cannot speak a word of -Spanish. - -On the following morning, after a very hearty breakfast, we left Ocros, -with an earnest entreaty to call at the house of the cura, should we -ever pass through the village again; but the invitation was almost -useless, as there was scarcely a hut, _rancho_, in the village that -would have held me and my almaufres. We continued our journey by -descending into a deep ravine, where there was no appearance of -vegetation, except a few _tunas_ and the _giganton_ rising twelve or -fourteen feet high; these, instead of enlightening, gave the scene a -more dreary appearance; for these vestiges of vegetation, as they seemed -to be, stood on the rocks like way-worn travellers, while their naked -trunks craved that moisture from the clouds which they sought for in -vain from below. After travelling three dreary leagues, we began to -ascend the cuesta of Chiquian; at first we perceived the whole extent of -the ravine, _quebrada_, but the clouds soon began to roll beneath our -feet, and intercept the view of the road we had just travelled over. Our -ascent was very laborious to the mules, but I alighted twice and led -mine; in some places steps were cut in the rock, and hollowed out by the -feet of the mules and other cattle that had passed. - -When we reached the top I expected to have an extensive view of the -country, but I was very much mistaken; towards the coast all seemed to -be enveloped in a thick mist, and on every other side the mountains rose -one above another, or their proximity blocked up the whole view at once. -At a distance we could at times see the summit of some mountains -belonging to the principal chain of the Cordillera, covered with snow, -and we appeared as if completely isolated--the bed of clouds behind us -looked like the sea, limited only by the horizon, and before us the -mountains reared their towering heads, as if to oppose our progress. - -The top of the mountain was covered with some short grass and moss, with -a few horned cattle feeding on it; but after travelling about two -leagues we began to descend, and our eyes were once more cheered with -the view of some straggling ranchos and patches of cultivated land. At -two o'clock we arrived at Chiquian, a comfortable looking town, or -village, as it would have been called in England. We found here many -white families, and some agreeable people; but the whole village was in -an uproar, being divided into parties respecting a law suit with the -cura; we however went to his house, where we were received with a most -hearty welcome. - -The population of Chiquian is composed of white creoles, indians, and -mestizos; their principal occupation is farming and grazing; ponchos of -wool and cotton are manufactured by the women, some of which are very -fine. Near to Chiquian is a silver mine, formerly worked with tolerable -advantage, but at present abandoned. The ore contains iron, arsenic, and -sulphur, and is always roasted before it is mixed with the mercury; it -was calculated, that if a _caxon_, fifty quintals, of ore produced eight -marks of silver, that the proprietor lost nothing; but this calculation -is very erroneous, because different ores require different portions of -labour, and the loss of mercury is also much greater in some ores than -in others; the _paco_, red oxide of silver, pays much better if it yield -six marks each _caxon_, than the _bronce_, micaceous pyriferous ores, if -they yield ten. Some few small veins of ore had produced forty marks; -but this may be looked upon generally as a mere temptation to the miner -to carry on the work, often to his own ruin. - -According to the mining laws, the discoverer has one hundred and sixty -square yards of surface, and must not extend his works beyond the -perpendicular limits of his share; he must first present a sample of ore -to the _Tribunal de Mineria_, and take out a document called _registro_, -before he can begin to work; the limits are marked out by the -Subdelegado, political governor of the district, and the proprietor -takes possession by rolling himself on the ground, digging holes, -throwing stones, and shouting three times, possession! Other persons who -solicit as hare petition the Tribunal de Mineria, and receive a registro -of eighty yards only, half the quantity to which the discoverer is -entitled. - -Some proprietors pay the labourers, who are indians and mestizos, daily, -but others allow them a bonus of twenty-four hours in each week, during -which time the ore which they extract belongs to themselves; and -purchasers are always ready on the Saturday night to buy it of them. In -this case a great deal of roguery is generally practised. If the -labourers find a rich vein they endeavour to hide it till the Friday -night and then extract it for themselves; and it is no uncommon thing -for this ore to yield twenty or thirty marks to the caxon, when that -taken out during the week will not average above eight or ten. The ore -is carried to the mouth of the mine in bags made of hide, called -_capachos_, on the shoulders of men called _capacheros_; it is there -received by the mayor domo, and laid on the ground in a heap; hence it -is conveyed on the backs of mules or llamas to the _taona_ or _ingenio_. -The first is a mill similar to a bark mill, a stone, like a mill stone, -is placed vertically on a wooden axletree, on which it revolves; to the -end of this a mule or bullock, or sometimes two, are fastened, and drag -the stone round. The stone moves in a groove, into which the ore is -thrown; a small stream of water runs along the groove, and washes away -many of the impurities, particularly the earth. When the ore is ground -sufficiently small it forms a mass with the water, and is taken out of -the taona and mixed with a quantity of quicksilver; it is thus allowed -to remain a few days, when it is turned over with a spade, and trod on, -in order to incorporate the mercury with the mass. This operation is -repeated two, three, or more times, till the amalgam is formed; more -mercury is added when necessary, which is known by taking a small -portion of the mass and washing away the extraneous matter; if the -amalgam, _pella_, be hard and granulous, more is added; if not, the -whole mass is thrown into a cistern, and a small stream of water allowed -to run into it. A man keeps this in motion with a pole till the water -has washed away all the earth and other impurities when the amalgam has -collected into one mass; it is then put into a strainer of coarse linen -or hair, and the superabundant mercury is pressed out; the silver, -containing some mercury, is placed in a heated furnace, by which means -the remaining quicksilver is evaporated, and the porous ball is called -_plata de piņa_. Before this can be sold it is carried to the _callana_, -royal office, where it is melted, the royal fifth paid, and the bar -marked with the initials of the treasurer, the date of the year, and the -weight. The exportation of plata piņa was strictly forbidden by the -Spanish colonial laws, and some persons who have run the risk of -purchasing it have been most miserably deceived; for, on cutting the -lumps, they have found adulterated silver in the centre, lead, and even -stones, which could not be discovered except by cutting the lumps into -pieces. Another method of cheating was, by allowing part of the mercury -to remain in the mass, which increases its weight, and can only be -detected by subjecting it to the heat of a furnace. Base metals were -sometimes included in the bars which had not the mark of the treasury on -them; but by putting these into a proper box containing water, and -comparing the quantity of water displaced with the weight of the bar, -the trick might easily be discovered. - -The ingenio differs from the taona only in the operation being performed -with the aid of a water-wheel instead of mules or bullocks. Some of the -taonas are so rudely constructed, that they have two or three stones -lashed to the horizontal pole or axletree, and these are dragged round -by mules or bullocks, and grind the ore on a stone floor laid below -them. Some ores require roasting in a furnace before they are crushed; -but others are carried from the mine to the mill. The silver is -extracted from a few kinds of ore by smelting, which has induced several -foreigners to try various experiments, as the saving of labour and other -expensive operations would be of serious advantage; but universal -failures have been the result; for the ore always came out of the -furnaces converted into a hard black ponderous cinder, and was -sometimes vitrified. - -The town of Chiquian has a very neat appearance: a large square forms -the centre of it, on one side of which there is a well built stone -church, and the house of the cura; on another stands the cabildo, and -two or three respectable looking houses with stone doorways, large -folding doors, white walls, and the roofs tiled--but they are only one -story high. The other two sides are filled with houses and shops, and in -the centre of the square is a large wooden cross on a stone pedestal. -Streets lead from the corners of the square, in which there are some -neat small houses with pretty gardens. Excellent cheese is made on some -of the farms in the neighbourhood--not surpassed in richness of flavour -by the best parmesan: the butter here is also good, but it is churned -from boiled milk, and has a peculiar taste, which, however, is not -disagreeable. - -During my stay, I visited Cajatambo, the capital of the district, and -the residence of the subdelegado: the town is larger than Chiquian; but -not so pleasantly situated. The corregidores, as the governors were -formerly called, had the privilege of _repartimientos_, or -distributions, which was certainly the most oppressive law that was -ever enacted. The corregidor, according to this establishment, -monopolized the whole trade of the province or district; he had a store -of goods and distributed them among the inhabitants, particularly the -indians, telling them the price, and when the payment would become due; -at which time the debt was exacted with the greatest rigour. It was in -vain for any person to resist either to receive the goods, or to pay the -value of them. During the repartimientos, that of Cajatambo amounted to -a hundred and thirty thousand dollars annually; and the _alcavala_, or -duty on sales of property, to twelve hundred dollars; but this tax was -never paid by the indians, because they were exempted by law. - -The order for the establishment of repartimientos of goods was obtained -in the same manner as Ovando obtained his from Isabella for that of the -indians at Hispaniola. The laziness and slothful habits of these -unfortunate beings were urged to procure an order or edict, allowing the -corregidores to distribute such articles among them as were necessary -for their comfort, and oblige them to pay at a reasonable time, leaving -to the distributor a necessary profit; but the abuse of this institution -became so great as to be almost beyond description. Many corregidores, -who were not possessed of property to purchase what they wanted of the -merchants, would receive on credit their most miserable stock of -commodities, and then distribute them to the indians, laying on an -enormous profit. Gauzes, stained velvets, muslins, unfashionable -calicoes, and all the dregs of a draper's store were sent to the houses -of the indians, probably in a climate severely cold, where these -suffering wretches had not a blanket to cover themselves, nor perhaps a -shirt on their backs. Spirituous liquors were distributed in the same -manner; a jar worth forty dollars would be sent to the house of an -indian who had a few mules, horses, or other cattle, which, when the -time of payment arrived, were often sold to meet the demand of the -governor. I was assured, that a corregidor of Huamalies took on credit -several large cases of common spectacles, and issued an order in his -district, that no indian should present himself before him, in his -judicial capacity, without having a pair on his nose; by which means he -obliged them to purchase such useless articles, and to advance the sale, -whenever a complaint was made, he would summon as many witnesses as he -possibly could. - -A considerable quantity of wool, some of which is of a short staple, -but very fine, is carried to Lima, where it is principally made up into -mattresses: this district sends also large flocks of sheep and some oxen -to the Lima market. Copperas is found in several parts of it, and great -quantities of gypsum, yeso, which is carried to different places on the -coast, and used in whitewashing the houses. - -The dress of the inhabitants is similar to the dress of those who reside -on the coast; the poncho is seldom or never dispensed with among the -men, indeed the cold makes it quite necessary. In Caxatambo and -Chiquian, evening parties are very common; no invitation is necessary -except the sound of the guitar, and I have spent many very agreeable -hours in listening to the _cachuas_, and _yarabis_--it is delightful to -hear both their merry tunes, and their doleful songs. To the former they -generally dance, the figure ending with each verse; this dance is -somewhat similar to the Spanish fandango, or boleras; two persons dance -it; and with few variations it consists of tripping backwards and -forwards, then forming a semi-circle, the man dancing towards the right, -whilst his partner dances in the opposite direction; this is repeated -two or three times, and the dance generally concludes with a _sapateo_, -beating time to the music with their feet. The dance is something like a -minuet, but the movements are quicker. If a couple dance a minuet, they -generally receive the noisy applause of the lookers on, and not -unfrequently a handful of money is thrown at the feet of the lady by -some _enamorado_, when the boys and girls immediately run to pick it up; -this creates a bustle, and it is not uncommon for the young lady to be -almost unable to extricate herself from the rabble, even with the -assistance of her partner. The following was the favourite cachua in -Cajatambo, introduced, I believe, by an Andalusian:-- - - - Yo tengo una cachucha, en que camino de noche - Y andando mi cachuchita, parece que ando en coche - Ah cachuchita mia, &c. - Yo tengo una cachucha, que compré a mi padre, - Y él que quiere cachucha, que lo compre a su madre, - Ah cachuchita mia, &c. - - -The _yarabis_, or _tristes_, as they are sometimes called, are peculiar -to the cierra, and except by a mountaineer, _serrano_, I never heard -them sung on the coast; they are plaintive ditties, and some of the -tunes are peculiarly sweet. The following is a yarabi which I have often -heard:-- - - - Ingrato, cruel, e inhumano - Tus engaņos causaron mi desvia, - Tu contento te rias, y yo lloro, - Ah alma mia. - - Busca adonde quisieres placeres - Y cobra, sin jamas pagar el amor - El tiempo vendrá, para que llores - Con duro dolor. - - La muerte dará fin a mi pesar - Tu vivirás con goso, y con risas, - Pero no, te ha or atormentar - Mi imagen, mis cenisas. - - -On leaving Caxatambo we had to pass over the mountains that border the -district to the northward, and owing to the rain that had fallen, the -ascent was very slippery. I frequently alighted, but my companions never -did; they assured me that the mules were sure-footed, and that I need -apprehend no accident. The morning was very cold, and on the tops of the -mountains we perceived a considerable quantity of snow. During our -ascent we observed the rapid decrease of vegetation; the lofty and -luxuriant molles which we saw at the foot became more and more stunted, -till they totally disappeared, and in their place some small plants of -the cactus tribe were clinging to the rocks: on the summit the small -patches of ground were covered with long dry grass, which the natives -called _pajon_; the rugged rocks were white with moss, and all appeared -dreary and lifeless; not a bird nor any living animal was either seen or -heard, and the clouds below hid the surrounding scenery from our view. -After travelling about six leagues, including the ascent, we began to -descend, when the muleteer observed that we were in the province of -Huailas. The clouds that rested on our heads threatened rain, so we -resolved to pass the night at a farm house about a league from the -border. The rain soon began to fall in torrents, and although our mules -walked and slipped down the cuesta as fast as we dare venture to allow -them, we were completely soaked through with the rain. On our arrival at -the farm, about four o'clock in the afternoon, we were welcomed by the -owner, who begged of us to ride under the corridor and alight; two young -men, his sons, assisted us in dismounting, and three young women, his -daughters, helped us to take off our wet ponchos and hats, which they -hung upon pegs in the corridor. We entered the house and seated -ourselves on the _estrado_, which was covered with very neat home-made -carpets, and a row of low stools were placed near the wall; a large -brass pan, _brasero_, full of burning wood embers was immediately placed -before us by one of the daughters, who received it at the door from a -female indian servant. The girls helped us to take off our boots and -stockings, and offered us some of their own shoes as slippers; matte was -immediately made, and I drank five or six cups, or rather sucked it, not -with less pleasure when I observed that my pretty caterer (for very -pretty she was) took the first suck at the tube before she handed it to -me. My companion preferred a large glass of hot brandy and water, and as -he was prepared with a bullock's horn, holding about two quarts of the -former liquor, his appetite was soon satisfied. - -Our host entered shortly afterwards, and informed us that he had sent -for half a dozen lads and lasses to come and dance and be merry with us. -But, said I, it rains, will they come? Yes, said he, to be sure they -will, and they would come if they lived ten leagues off, whereas they -only live at the distance of two:--not across such a road as that which -we have just passed, I hope? Why, said he, they live in the _quebrada_, -ravine, and all our roads are pretty much alike in such weather as this; -but the sound of a guitar, and the pleasure they take in dancing with -strangers, will bring them away; and surely they will be no worse for -being a little wet and drabbled: the boys will bring partners too with -them, because they cannot well dance with their sisters--bread and bread -has no relish, but bread and cheese make a good meal. - -All was now in a bustle of preparation: a lamb and several fowls were -killed for supper; a large calabash of punch was made, containing about -seven or eight gallons; but I being tired with my ride, threw myself -down on the carpets to sleep, when Panchita, the pretty girl who made -the matte, came and placed a pillow under my head and threw a white rug -over me, and then removed the embers in the brasero, which she placed -near enough to keep me warm. My companion, who was a clergyman, said, he -must attend to his _officio divino_ before the company arrived, so he -took out his breviarium, and began to work at his trade, whilst I slept. - -After enjoying my nap for about an hour, I awoke, and found an agreeable -repast just ready--a _salona_, mutton slightly salted and smoked, and -equal in flavour to venison, had been roasted, an agreeable sauce of the -green pods of capsicum, _aji verde_, in vinegar had been prepared, and -they were served up with some excellent roasted potatoes; after this, a -chip box, holding about two pounds of preserved apricots, and another of -quince marmalade, for which delicacies the province of Huailas is quite -famous, were put on the table. This refreshment was placed before my -companion and myself, on a low table, as we sat on the edge of the -estrado. While we ate and drank, our host informed us that he was a -native of Cadiz, but that he had lived in America upwards of twenty -years. On his arrival at Callao, in the capacity of a sailor, he left -his ship, and travelled into the interior in search of a wife with a -fortune, for, said he, without such an appendage I could have found many -maids willing to become wives at home. I chanced, continued he, on my -way to Huaras, to call at this house to beg a lodging for the night; the -old farmer had a daughter, an only one; I was soon convinced that his -coffers were not empty, so I prolonged my visit, made love to his -daughter, and married her. She has been dead twelve years, and I find -myself happy with my five boys and girls, and they seem to be happy with -me; but that will perhaps not last long, they will themselves soon want -to marry, and I cannot object to it; their father and mother set them -the example, and if I cannot then live with them I can live without -them. You, father, addressing himself to the clergyman, would advise me -perhaps to retire to a convent, and live a penitential life; but if I -have given my flesh to the devil, he shall have my bones too. You tell -us, continued he, that only our good works will accompany us to the -other world; but I shall also take with me good eating and drinking, and -a merry heart; for although you preach to us abstinence and other -restrictions, yet you enjoy the good things of this world, and example, -you know, is more persuasive than precept. But I am happy to see you, -and you are welcome to my rancho, for it reminds me of my own arrival at -it. In a short time our merry companions appeared, laughing most -heartily as they jumped from the backs of their mules, to see each other -bespattered with mud and dripping with rain. - -Three healthy looking lasses, with rosy cheeks, and a stately youth, had -braved the wind and rain to join our party, which, with this -acquisition, was a very merry one. The young women had on hats and -ponchos; but their shoes and stockings were kept dry in the pockets of -the young man, who was their brother. In a very short time the guitar -was tuned, and we began to dance--our kind host, Garcia, being the -musician. I took Panchita as my partner, which caused a good deal of -mirth, because our visitor, Eugenio, was passionately fond of her: he -watched her steps with the anxious rapture of a lover, and no doubt -envied me during the dance; at length, unable to suffer any longer the -privation of dancing with her, he rose, made me a low bow, and took my -place, to the no small satisfaction of the company, who lavished on him -many an Andalusian joke. After the first dance one of the sisters rose -and relieved Panchita, who came and sat down on my knee as I sat on one -of the low stools; she very soon went to a table and brought me a glass -of punch, which we drank; this appeared too much for poor Eugenio, but -instead of being offended, as might have happened among civilized -people, he retired to a seat, after finishing his dance, and placed his -partner on his knee; she soon rose and brought him a glass of punch, -which they drank together; and all parties appeared completely happy. - -We made a most hearty supper of roasted and stewed lamb and fowls, -sweetmeats and punch; after which several songs were sung, both cachuas -and yarabis, and our host entertained us with some Andalusian -_chuladas_. Day dawned, and found us merry, scarcely able to believe -that the night was spent. The morning was very fine, and we expressed a -wish to proceed on our way to Huaras: but my companion told me, that in -all probability our mules were lost; lost, exclaimed I! Yes, said he, -but they will be found again to-morrow morning, if Garcia will then -consent to our leaving his house. This was really the case, for the -mules were not found--for the best of all possible reasons--they were -not sought for; the young men were sent in search of them, and soon -returned with the news, that they could not be found. The girls began to -console us with many promises of their being discovered during the day, -and advised us to take our breakfasts and sleep an hour or two, to which -we assented without much reluctance. We spent the day and the following -night most agreeably--not without plenty of singing and dancing. - -I learnt from our host, Garcia, that his property consisted of about -eighty head of horned cattle, and twelve hundred sheep, besides a small -farm, which he shewed us, of which about sixty acres were under the -plough, and produced good crops of wheat, maize, barley, and potatoes. -Purchasers for the cattle came annually from the coast. The surplus of -wool, some of which is extremely fine, was generally bought by the -owners of manufactories, _obrages_, in the province, at about one dollar -the arroba, twenty five pounds; the grain, potatoes, &c. were carried to -Huaras. - -On the following morning our mules were found, and we proceeded through -a country more beautiful at every step we took, and arrived in the -evening at Huaras, the capital of the district. This town is pleasantly -situated, though rather bleak; the houses have a neat and comfortable -appearance, and some of the shops are stored with a considerable -quantity of European manufactured goods, such as broad cloth, wide -coloured flannels, linens, cottons, silks, hosiery, cutlery, and also -home manufactured woollen and cotton cloths. In the square, _plasa_, a -small market is held every morning of articles brought from the -neighbouring country. The town contains a parish church, which is a neat -stone built edifice; a convent of Franciscan grey friars, and a -hospital, under the care of the Bethlemites. The Subdelegado resides -here; the repartimiento of the corregidor amounted formerly to a hundred -and seventy thousand dollars annually, and the alcavala to two thousand -three hundred. - -The population of Huaras consists of about seven thousand inhabitants, -the greater part of whom are composed of mestisos; the people are rather -fond of dress, and evening parties are very common. There is not an inn -or public house in the town; but a traveller can be accommodated with -lodgings, &c. in almost any house. - -This district contains many towns and villages; the principal ones are -Requay, Carhuas, Yungay, Caras, and Cotopará. The temperature of the -centre and lower part of the district is warm, and extremely agreeable. -Considerable quantities of sugar are manufactured here; it is of a very -superior quality, but the cane, which is of the creole kind, is four -years before it is ripe, and the first crop only is destined for the -making of sugar; the second serves for the following plantation, and of -the excess sweetmeats are made with peaches, pears, quinces, and -apricots, many mule loads of which are annually taken to Lima. The -fruits of temperate climates prosper extremely well in the valleys; but -on account of the frosty night winds at certain seasons of the year -tropical fruits do not thrive. Owing to part of the province being -subject to a cold atmosphere, particularly on the east side, which is -bounded by the Cordillera, and the valleys enjoying a very benign one, -crops of wheat and barley, as well as maize, quinua, garbansos, lentils -and other pulse, are harvested during every month of the year; it is -common on the same day, when travelling, to see wheat put into the -ground at one place, and under the sickle at another. In this province -a great number of large and small cattle are bred, particularly goats, -the skins of which are tanned for cordovans, and the tallow is used in -the soap manufactories. The wool of the sheep is made into flannels, -serges, and coarse cloths, _bayetones_, at the different manufactories, -_obrages_, where coarse cotton cloths, _tocuyos_, are also woven; but -the distaff and spindle are generally employed for spinning. The white -yard-wide flannel sells at about half a dollar a yard; the blue at three -quarters of a dollar, and the tocuyos at different prices, from a -quarter to three quarters of a dollar. Very neat woollen table covers -are manufactured in this province, of different sizes, and various -prices; when wove they are white, and they are afterwards ingeniously -dyed by first tying small patches with two, three, or more threads; the -cloth is then dipped in a cochineal dye; more knots are tied in -different parts, and an indigo dye is used; when dry, the knots are all -untied, and as the colours could not penetrate where the strings were -tied, circles of white, blue, and red, or of other colours, according to -the fancy of the dyer, are formed in the different parts of the cloth, -and if these are symmetrically placed the shades which they produce are -pretty, and the whole effect is very pleasing. - -Formerly several gold and silver mines were wrought in Huailas; there -are upwards of thirty mills for grinding the ore in different parts of -the province, but at present little attention is paid to mining; -however, small quantities of gold and silver are extracted. At Yurumarca -there is a mountain which contains large veins and strata of the -loadstone; near to which is a copper mine, now abandoned, because the -ore did not produce gold, as was expected, when it was first wrought. -Large quantities of alum are prepared from a mineral near Yurumarca, by -the process of solution and evaporation; but it is generally subjected -to a second operation of refining at Lima. - -On the whole, the province of Huailas is most bountifully supplied with -all the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life; the situation is -commanding, and Huaras is calculated to become a large mercantile town, -the general mart for the provinces of Huailas, Huamalies alto, Huamalies -bajo, and Conchucos; but for the furtherance of such a project, the port -of Santa ought to be opened; it is a secure harbour, and is the nearest -of any to Huaras. - -After visiting the principal towns in Huailas, I went to the province of -Conchucos, which adjoins it to the northward. This province is more -irregular than the former; some of the valleys are very low, and -consequently very hot; in these the tropical and equatorial fruits come -to perfection, and at Huari del Rey, the capital, I have seen very fine -pine-apples, grown in the province. The valleys are generally small, -being merely bottoms of the ravines, _quebradas_, and the soil is -produced by the heavy rains which fall on the adjoining mountains: these -carry down the decayed animal and vegetable matter, as well as the -decombres of the stone of which they are composed, and hence the soil is -remarkably productive. Some of the villages are situated in very cold -climates, being from five to eight thousand feet above the level of the -sea; they are generally small miserable places, inhabited chiefly by -indians, who cultivate patches of barley and maize, which seen from the -valleys appear to hang in the clouds. I have often beheld a man -ploughing with a yoke of oxen lent to him by the farmers, where I should -have imagined that a goat could scarcely have tripped along in safety. A -few small sheep and goats are the only animals which they possess, -excepting dogs, of which useless animals, each hut, _rancho_, contains -at least half a dozen. Many of these indians are employed by the more -wealthy inhabitants in manufacturing tocuyos, bayetones, flannels, and -coarse cotton stockings. The females generally spin and knit at home, -and the men go to the obrages to weave, dye, full, &c. Some very fine -ponchos are made in Conchucos, and sold at the amazing price of a -hundred or a hundred and fifty dollars each; others, made of brown wool, -are called _bordillos_, and fetch from five to ten dollars each; of the -coarse wool and all the refuse _jerga_ is made, which is formed into -wrappers for sugar, and common dresses for the slaves and the poorer -sort of indians. This province manufactures more of this kind of cloth -than any of the neighbouring districts, and some of the inhabitants are -wealthy, but the poor indians are truly miserable. - -Some silver mines are wrought in Conchucos, but the quantity of silver -yielded by the ore being small, the hardness of the ore which renders -the breaking of it expensive, and the loss of mercury during the process -of amalgamation, contribute to render mining a losing speculation, and -the mines are consequently almost abandoned. Several attempts have been -made to smelt the ores, but without success; could this be accomplished -there is no doubt but that mining would become profitable in Conchucos, -particularly as there is coal in several parts of this and the -neighbouring provinces. - -Along the margin of the river Miraflores, in Conchucos, there are -_labadores_, washing places, where gold of the finest quality is found -in the sand, and after the rains subside many persons are employed in -gathering it; but so little are they acquainted with the extensive and -easy method adopted on the coast of Choco, that the profit derived from -their labour is very small; notwithstanding, if proper means were -employed, it is very probable that an abundance might be extracted. - -In the parish of Llamellin is a mine of sulphur, great quantities of -which are extracted, and carried to Lima, and sold at the powder mills. -In the same parish is a spring which falls down the sides of a rock, -forming in its course innumerable hard white stalactites, that look like -candles hung in the water; the natives call them Catachi, and apply -them, reduced to powder, in cases of violent hæmorrhage, bloody flux, -&c.; they also mix the powder with lard or the fat of the puma, or -condor, apply it to fractured bones, and consider the application as -useful in promoting the union of the parts. - -The _oca_ is cultivated in some of the colder parts of this and the -neighbouring provinces; this plant is of a moderate size--in appearance -somewhat like the acetous trefoil; the roots are yellow, each about -five or six inches long and two in circumference; they have many eyes, -like the potato, and are seldom straight like the the carrot or radish, -but curved in different directions: one plant produces several roots, -and they are propagated in the same manner as potatoes. The oca when -boiled is much sweeter than the camote or batata of Malaga; indeed, it -appears to contain more saccharine matter than any root I ever tasted; -if eaten raw it is very much like the chesnut, and it may be kept for -many months in a dry place. The transplanting of the oca to England, -where, I am persuaded, it would prosper, would add another agreeable and -useful esculent to our tables. - -Among the plants used medicinally by the natives is the _contrayerba_, -which grows in the mountains in cold shady places: the stem is about two -feet high, of a purple colour; it is divided by knots like a cane, where -the leaves grow opposite to each other; these are three or four inches -long, narrow, denticulated, and of a very dark green colour. The flower -stalks spring from the same knots, and the flower bears a great -resemblance to that of agrimony. It is used, the leaves, flowers, and -stem, as a febrifuge, and particularly in the small-pox and measles, to -facilitate the eruption; it is also used as a tonic, or stomachic, in -cases of habitual indigestions, and also in dysenteries. It is pretended -that it will counteract the effects of poison, on which account it has -obtained the name which it bears. This plant is quite different to that -called contrayerba, which grows in Chile, and which I have already -described. The natives administer this herb in a simple decoction. - -The _calaguala_ is another herb which grows in moist swampy places, -where the climate is mild. The plant is composed of leaves about ten or -twelve inches long, and one broad; it bears no flowers. A decoction of -the leaves is considered as an excellent dissolvent of the coagulated -blood in severe contusions; it is believed to be efficacious in -affections of the viscera, when ulceration has taken place, by -evacuating the purulent matter; it is also given in the falling -sickness. There are two varieties of this plant: the leaves of the one -are green; this is considered inefficacious, and is called the female; -the other bears leaves of a brown colour, is called the male plant, and -is the one used. - -Another medicinal herb, which is found in this and the neighbouring -provinces, is the _quinchimali_; it grows in temperate parts, and -resembles the herb of the same name which grows in Chile. A decoction of -it is drunk in cases of severe contusion, if it be suspected that -coagulated blood, or lymph, be lodged in the intestines, and in -gonorrheas it is used to promote the discharge, and prevent strictures. - -The inhabitants of Conchucos are said to be less civilized than those of -the neighbouring districts; there is some reason for this assertion; -they are indeed more uncouth and less kind in their manners. There -appears to be a certain degree of licentious independence in their -behaviour, and more robberies and murders are committed here than in any -other part of South America: however, a stranger is generally treated -with respect. When at Corongos, which is certainly the most disagreeable -town I ever entered, I went to purchase some snuff--the shopman was -asleep, and I awoke him, at which he became so enraged, that he jumped -from his chair and struck at me; I ran into the street, and the man -followed me, swearing most lustily, and threatening to strike me; but a -person who was passing stepped in between us, pushed back the shopman, -and clapping his breast with his hand, he said, with me, with me, that -gentleman is a stranger, _con migo, con migo, el seņor es forastero_. -Finding myself thus unexpectedly relieved, I left my champion to settle -matters as well as he could, and hastened to the house of the parish -priest, _cura_, where I, as usual, had taken up my temporary residence. -In a few minutes my friend, though entirely unknown to me, made his -appearance, and inquired what quantity of snuff I wanted; on being -informed, he immediately went to fetch it, and would not admit of any -return for his kindness and trouble, except my thanks. - -During my stay at Corongos, the cura related to me several anecdotes -concerning his parishioners, one of which was the following. The titular -saint of the town is Saint Peter, and on the day of his festival an -image of a natural size is carried in procession through the principal -streets; when, on his return to the church, he arrives at the corner of -the plasa, the inhabitants of the upper and lower part of the town place -themselves in two rows, having large heaps of stones at their feet, and -not unfrequently the boys and women stand behind them with a supply in -baskets. The carriers of the image rest here for a few minutes, and then -run towards the church in a sort of gallopping procession; but the -moment that the saint enters the plasa, he is assailed by volleys of -stones from each side, and pursued to the church door. If the saint -enter the church with his head on his shoulders, it augurs a bad year, -failure of the harvest, death of cattle, and other calamities; but if -the contrary happen, which is generally the case, the augury is quite -changed; and if the fishes be knocked out of his hand likewise, every -good thing is expected in abundance during the year. After the -decapitation, a scuffle ensues for the possession of the head, between -the inhabitants of the two _barrios_, or wards of the town, in which -many bones are broken, and generally two or three lives are lost. The -victors carry off the head in triumph, and, like that of a malefactor, -place it on the top of a high pole, and pretend that it averts all -damage that might be done to them by lightning, while the other half of -the town, they say, receives no benefit. The cura told me that his -predecessor had endeavoured to do away with this irreligious practice, -and wrote to a friend at Lima, to charge the sculptor not to finish the -new head for Saint Peter, hoping that if one year passed without such -impiety, the practice would be relinquished; but, to his great surprise, -on the 30th of June, the indians informed him, that the procession would -take place in the evening, for which purpose they had dressed an image -of the Virgin Mary in the garments of Saint Peter, and that she looked -very much like the saint, but rather younger, as she had no beard. The -procession took place; but, to the disappointment of the inhabitants, -the female apostle entered the church with her head on her shoulders, -and from that time she was called Our Lady of the Miracle. - -In the year 1817, two Englishmen, sent from Pasco by Mr. Trevethick, who -afterwards followed with the intention of working some of the silver -mines in Conchucos, were murdered by their guides at a place called -_Palo seco_. This horrid act was perpetrated by crushing their heads -with two large stones, as they lay asleep on the ground; the murderers -were men who had come with them from Pasco. - -It is a well known fact, that many young Conchucanos go to Lima, and -enlist in the army, for the purpose of obtaining possession of a musket, -and then desert with it on the first opportunity that offers; indeed -there is scarcely a white family in the province that is not possessed -of one or more of these muskets. - -I have observed, that those persons who are employed in the mines in -South America are generally the most vile characters; they become inured -to every kind of vice, and as they form a kind of body, or rather -banditti, they almost defy the arm of justice, and deny the power of the -law. This may in some measure account for the character of the -Conchucanos; many mines were formerly wrought by them, but since the -discovery of Pasco and Gualgayoc, which produced more ore, and of a very -superior quality, the miners of Conchucos have resorted to them, -abandoning their own less profitable ones; but they have, unfortunately, -left the seeds of their evil actions behind them, and their example is -too frequently followed. - -The province of Conchucos might be one of the most agreeable in Peru, if -the inhabitants were but more kind to each other, and more happy among -themselves. The various climates, assisted by the various localities of -the soil, would produce all the necessaries and all the luxuries of -life; for in the small compass of fifty leagues, a traveller experiences -the almost unbearable heat of the torrid zone, the mild climates of the -temperate, and the freezing cold of the polar regions. - -To the eastward of Conchucos lies the district of Huamalies: it is a -very extensive valley, generally very narrow at the bottom, where a -river runs, which takes its origin at the lake of Lauricocha, in the -province of Tarma, and is called the Maraņon, as it is considered the -stream most distant from the mouth of the great river Maraņon, or -Amazons. The temperature of this province is very irregular; to the -south it is cold, as well as on each side, according to the local height -of the different places, but to the northward, particularly in the -parish of Huacaibamba, it is extremely hot during the whole year; and -the people are here of a much darker colour, and are often called -zambos. - -Huamalies produces wheat, barley, maize, and the different vegetables, -fruits, and pulse of the neighbouring provinces. Near to Huacaibamba -some _coca_ is cultivated. This is a small tree, with pale bright green -leaves, somewhat resembling in shape those of the orange tree. The -leaves are picked from the trees, three or four times a year, and -carefully dried in the shade; they are then packed in small baskets. The -natives, in several parts of Peru, chew these leaves, particularly in -the mining districts, when at work in the mines or travelling; and such -is the sustenance that they derive from them, that they frequently take -no food for four or five days, although they are constantly working; I -have often been assured by them, that whilst they have a good supply of -coca they feel neither hunger, thirst, nor fatigue, and that, without -impairing their health, they can remain eight or ten days and nights -without sleep. The leaves are almost insipid; but when a small quantity -of lime is mixed with them they have a very agreeable sweet taste. The -natives put a few of the leaves in their mouths, and when they become -moist, they add a little lime or ashes of the molle to them, by means of -a small stick, taking care not to touch the lips or the teeth; when the -taste of the coca diminishes, a small quantity of lime or ashes is -added, until the taste disappears, and then the leaves are replaced with -fresh ones. They generally carry with them a small leather pouch -containing coca, and a small calabash holding lime or ashes; and one of -these men will undertake to convey letters to Lima, a distance of -upwards of a hundred leagues, without any other provision. On such -occasions they are called _chasquis_, or _chasqueros_, and this epithet -is also given to the different conductors of the mails. The Incas had -men stationed on all the principal roads for the transmission of any -article belonging to the Inca, who, according to the quality of the -road, had to carry it to different distances, some one league, others -two, and others three. These men were continually employed, and when -one of them arrived, he delivered to the one in waiting whatever he was -charged with, and gave him the watchword, chasqui; this man ran -immediately to the next post, delivered his charge, and repeated -chasqui; and then remained to rest until the arrival of another. By -these means the court of the Incas was supplied with fresh fish from the -sea near Pachacamac, probably from the bay of Chilca, where a village of -indians employ themselves at present in fishing: it is the place to -which Pizarro was directed by the indians when in search of a good -harbour, before that of Callao was discovered. The distance from this -part of the coast to Cusco is more than a hundred leagues, yet so -vigilant and active were the indians, that Garcilaco affirms, that the -fish often arrived at Cusco alive. The communication between the most -distant parts of the empire and the capital was maintained, and it is -asserted, that by the chasqui news could be conveyed from Quito to -Cusco, a distance of six hundred leagues, in six days; while in their -route they had to cross several parts of the Cordillera, and many rapid -rivers. This, I think, proves a policy in the ancient government of -Peru, which does not well accord with the epithet of barbarians. - -Large quantities of bark are brought from the woods to the eastward of -Huamalies, and is known by the name of the Arancay bark. It is -considered equal in quality with that called Calisaya, from the woods to -the eastward of La Pas. It is much to be lamented, that the destruction -of this invaluable vegetable is making great progress, wherever it has -been found; the indians discover from the eminences where a cluster of -the trees grow in the woods, for they are easily discernible by the -rose-coloured tinge of their leaves, which appear at a distance like -bunches of flowers amid the deep green foliage of other trees. They then -hunt for the spot, and having found it out, cut down all the trees, and -take the bark from the branches. If the roots sprout again, as they -generally do, no trees of any large size grow up, for they are either -smothered by the lofty trees which surround them, or else they are -choaked by other young trees, which spring up near to them, and are of -quicker growth. If the government of America do not attend to the -preservation of the quina, either by prohibiting the felling of the -trees, or obliging the territorial magistrates to enforce the cutters to -guard them from destruction, before a sufficient population will allow -of those tracts of woodland becoming personal property, this highly -esteemed production of the new world will be swept from the country. -After the indians have stripped off the bark, they carry it in bundles -out of the wood for the purpose of drying it. - -There is undoubtedly a great loss of the medicinal matter of the -cinchona or quina, for all the bark of the trunks and of the smaller -branches is left to decay in the woods; whereas, if an extract, or the -quinine, were made from them on the spot, these drugs would become -incomparably more cheap in the European markets; besides which, the -consumption of the trees would be retarded in the same ratio, and the -useful portion which is now lost according to the present system would -be preserved. - -In a mountain in this province, called Chonta, several veins of cinnabar -were discovered, and the hope of extracting considerable quantities of -quicksilver from them elated the inhabitants for some time: the working -of the mine, however, has been discontinued, but for what reasons I -could never learn; the specimens of ore which I saw were certainly very -rich. Several silver mines are wrought in this district, and at certain -periods of the year many of the inhabitants attend the _lavaderos_, and -collect the gold. - -Near the settlement of Llacta is a bed of stones, called _piedras del -aguila_, eagle stones. The natives pretend, that one is always found in -the nest of an eagle, for the purpose of causing the female to lay, and -that during the time of ovation they become heated, and retain the heat -longer than the egg does, so that when the bird leaves the nest in quest -of food, the warmth which is retained by the stone is communicated to -the eggs, and prevents them from becoming addled, and that the first -trial of the strength of the talons of the young birds is exercised in -endeavouring to carry the stone. Whether this fiction had its origin -among the indians or not I never could learn; however, some ancient -naturalists have related the same tale respecting other ætites. - -These stones are found loose, as if thrown into a heap; they are of a -ferruginous nature, composed of black and reddish lamina, and are all of -them dodecaedrons, although of different sizes; some weighing only a few -ounces, and others from two to three pounds each. - -The woods to the north abound in excellent timber: there are cedars, a -kind of mahogany, laurel, and a wood called _nasareno_; it is very -hard, and of a beautiful bright purple colour, with numerous veins of -different shades. - -The wild indians bring from the woods many delicious fruits, -pine-apples, plantains, bananas, _nisperos_, mamays, guavas, &c. as well -as sweet potatoes, _camotes_, cabbage palm, _palmitos_, and yucas. - -A great difference may be observed in the character and manners of the -inhabitants of Huamalies; those who border on Conchucos partake of the -unruly disposition of their neighbours; but the more we advance to the -northward, the milder and more kind we find the inhabitants; in the warm -climates they are remarkably attached to festive sports and rural -amusements. They were so much delighted with some country dances which I -taught them, that the sun often peeped over the Cordillera and convinced -some of us that it was time to go to rest, while others were apprized -that it was time to go to their work. - -A disease very prevalent in this province is the _coto_, bronchocele, -which greatly disfigures some of the pretty females, and for which they -possess no antidote. The Subdelegado told me, that during the stay of a -detachment of troops destined to Maynas, one of the natives, who had a -very large coto, offended a drummer, who drew his sword and gave the -man a severe cut across the neck; it happened that he recovered, when he -applied to the commanding officer for some remuneration for his loss of -wages during the time that he was unable to work; the drummer was -called, and observing that the man was freed from the swelling on his -throat, very wittily remarked, that he was willing to pay him for his -loss of time, if he would pay him for performing an operation which had -relieved him from a disease, that would otherwise have accompanied him -to his grave. - -While in Huamalies I was twice entertained with the representation of -the death of the Inca. The plasa or square had a kind of arch erected at -each corner, adorned with plate, flowers, ribbons, flags made of -handkerchiefs, and whatever could be collected to ornament them; under -one of these sat a young indian, with a crown on his head, a robe, and -other emblems of monarchy; he was surrounded by his coyas or princesses, -who sang to him in the Quichua language. Presently several indians came -running from the opposite corner of the plasa, and after prostrating -themselves, informed the Inca of the arrival of the viracochas, white -men, or children of the sun. At this time drums and trumpets were heard, -and Pizarro, with about a dozen indians, dressed as soldiers, made his -entry on horseback, and alighted at the arch opposite to that of the -Inca. An ambassador was now sent to the Inca by Pizarro, requesting an -interview, and the Prince immediately prepared to visit him. A kind of -litter was brought, which he entered, and, surrounded by a number of -indians and his coyas, he was carried to where Pizarro stood, and waited -for him. Pizarro first addressed the Inca, promising him the protection -of the King, his master; the answer was, the acceptance of the promise. -Pizarro then told him, that he must become a Christian, but to this he -objected, when he was immediately seized by the soldiers, and carried to -another corner of the plasa; Pizarro followed him, and ordered him to -deliver up all his treasures; he now took from him his crown, sceptre, -and robes, and then ordered him to be beheaded. The Inca was dragged to -the centre of the plasa, and laid on the ground, which one of the -soldiers struck with an axe, and a piece of red cloth was thrown over -the head of the Inca; the Spaniards then departed, and the Indians began -to wail and lament the death of their king. - -Although this representation was destitute of what may be called -theatrical beauty or elegance, yet the plaintive ditties, _yarabis_, -sung by the coyas, particularly after the death of their beloved Inca, -were, to a feeling mind, superior to the sweetest warblings of an -Italian _cantatrice_. The surrounding scenery, the view of the -Cordilleras, the native dresses, the natives themselves, and the very -earth which the Inca had trod on, all seemed to combine to hush the -whisper of criticism, and were well calculated to rouse sympathy and -compassion from their slumbers--for however they might be opiated with -misrepresentations, or encumbered with fiction, they were not bolstered -up with flattery or hypocrisy. After three centuries have elapsed, the -memory of the ancient monarchs of this country is kept alive by the -annual representations of the cruel and unmerited death of the last of -the race; and I flatter myself that those who are the most prejudiced in -favour of the blessings that civilization has produced since the -discovery and conquest of this country, and its ill fated aborigines, by -a Christian prince, must still confess, that the preachers of the gospel -of Jesus Christ have sold to them the title of Christianity at too -usurious a price; they have been taught religion by precept, and vice by -example; promised liberty in theory, and received slavery in reality; -protection, prosperity, and tranquillity were pictured to them in gaudy -colours by their crafty invaders; but persecution and degradation have -been the reward of their unsuspecting confidence, and they have only -found tranquillity in the grave. - -The enormities committed by the first Spaniards who arrived in America -were certainly unauthorized by the Spanish Monarchs, they were the -effects of their own lust for riches. Isabella and her successors have -been actuated by a zeal for the propagation of the Christian faith, and -the most earnest charges respecting religious instruction and mild -treatment to these their inoffensive subjects have been given to all -persons in authority in the new world, and the same mild spirit breathes -out in almost every page of the _Recopilacion de leyes de Indias_. Not -only the civil magistrate and the military governor were charged with -the protection of the Indians, but the bishops and other ecclesiastics; -these injunctions are set forth in the tenth book of the _Recopilacion_, -which points out the duty of these individuals, as guardians of the -indians, commanding them to defend their persons and property against -any oppression or usurpation. The bishops and other ecclesiastics are by -the same _Recopilacion_ empowered to inform and admonish the civil -magistrates, in cases of oppression, and some of them have refused -absolution to those Spaniards whom they knew to have treated the indians -as slaves. - -The avarice of individuals placed at a great distance from the personal -control of their masters is however too violent to be restrained by laws -and enactments; and many of the governors sent to the new world were as -mercenary and rapacious as their countrymen over whom they presided; the -lot of the oppressed was never regarded, if put in competition with -their own private views, which led only to the amassing of riches, and -of afterwards returning to old Spain loaded with the gold of America: -this they often effected at the expence of incurring, as they richly -deserved, the curses of the Americans. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - General Mode of Travelling from Lima to the different Provinces.... - British Manufactures fit for the last Provinces visited....General - Character of the Inhabitants....Animals in the Provinces of Huailas, - Caxatambo, Conchucos, and Huamalies....Pagi or Puma....Ucumari.... - Viscacha....Comadreja....Ardillas....Gato Montes....Alco....Llama - ....Paco....Huanaco....Vicuņa....Mulita....Birds....Condor.... - Vegetable Productions....Mineral ditto....Antiquities....Diseases - and Remedies....Hydrophobia. - - -During my stay in Huamalies, the news of the invasion of the province of -La Plata, by the English, arrived; this induced me to return to Lima, -instead of travelling through the country to the northward, because I -knew that in the capital I should be less suspected by the government, -than by the petty governors and magistrates in the inland towns. Before -I quit the subject of the foregoing chapter I shall however make a few -general observations. - -The total absence of inns, or any similar establishment on the roads, or -in the towns and villages, would present to an English traveller an -almost insurmountable obstacle; and as this country is now (1824) likely -to be frequented by many of my countrymen, I think it will not be -uninteresting to those who may stand in need of some information, nor -unentertaining to the public at large, if I give a concise description -of the general mode of travelling in Peru. - -If a resident in Lima wish to go to any considerable distance from the -capital, the best plan he can pursue is to inquire at the tambos for -_requas_, mules, which are from the country he intends to visit, and -agree with the muleteers or carriers for the number of mules he may -want. With an eye to comfort, the traveller must provide himself with a -mattress, bedding, and an almaufres, leather bag, already described, -sufficiently large to hold, besides the bed, his wearing apparel, -because the cargo would be otherwise too light. - -I always formed another load with a trunk, containing linen, books, and -writing materials; also a canteen, holding two or three small pans, oil, -vinegar, salt, spices, sugar, coffee, tea, knives and forks, spoons, -&c., and thus equipped, having a good poncho, saddle, _al uso del pais_, -bridle and spurs, a traveller has little to apprehend from the want of -inns. The plan I usually followed was, to go to one of the principal -houses in the town or village, and to ask if I could remain there during -my stay in that place; this request was never denied me, and nine times -out of ten I have had nothing to pay, with the addition, perhaps, of -letters of recommendation, or kind messages, to persons residing in the -town or village to which I was going. If it happened to be from one cura -to another, I was not the less pleased, because their society in such -places is generally the best, and their fare is certainly not the worst. -It is much to be feared, that the political changes likely to take place -in South America will be inimical to the general feeling of hospitality -in the inhabitants; civilization will teach them refinements superior to -such barbarous practices. - -The locality of Huaras, as I have already observed, is admirably well -calculated for mercantile speculations: this town might constitute the -general mart for the sale of European manufactured goods, as well as for -the purchase of the produce of the provinces of Huailas, Caxatambo, -Conchucos, Huamalies, Patas, and part of Huamachucos. Among European -saleable manufactures may be counted broad cloths, coarse woollen -cloths, both single and double widths; linens, such as common Irish, or -imitation of German platillas and sheeting; fine duck for trowsers, and -some lawn resembling French linen, _estopillas_; narrow ribbons from -half an inch to an inch broad; some silks and velvets; cottons of all -descriptions, both white and coloured, particularly if an imitation of -the tocuyos were sent; these are yard-wide unbleached cottons, having -the thread more twisted than is generally practised, and velveteens, -plain and corded; broad flannels, green, red yellow and brown; hosiery, -both cotton and woollen; cutlery, bone-hafted knives with points are in -considerable use, and large common scissors for sheep-shearing, as the -natives are unacquainted with the kind of shears used in England; -hardware, such as pots and pans; these last ought not to be -flat-bottomed, but deeper in the middle than along the sides, with two -small rings instead of a handle; braseros from eight to twenty-four -inches diameter, and from three to five inches deep, according to the -size, with three feet, and two large rings to carry them with; those -used in the country, and their use is universal, are of copper, -principally manufactured at Lambayeque, but they are very clumsily -wrought, and sell very high; substitutes of iron and brass would find an -extensive sale; but they ought to be as light as is possible; copper and -bell-metal pans, holding from two to thirty gallons each, are articles -in great demand; chocolate pots of brass, copper, or iron, holding from -one to three quarts, would also find an extensive sale; paper of a -quality similar to the Spanish paper has a considerable consumption, as -it is used for making segars; but wove paper is always rejected, because -its softness induces the natives to suppose that it is made of cotton, -the smoke of which they consider injurious. - -The produce of these provinces is, for the Lima market, cattle, sugar, -_bayetones_, _tocuyos_, coarse stockings, ponchos, bordillos, jerga, -sweetmeats, tobacco, some timber for particular uses, cheese, which is -of an excellent quality, butter, and other minor articles; for -exportation, bark (cinchona) of Arancay, wool, hides, and the precious -metals. - -The inhabitants of these provinces are industrious, and generally -speaking kind and hospitable; among the indians poverty is very visible, -and the shyness which they show to white people who arrive at their -huts, _ranchos_, may be attributed to several causes--the universal -oppression which they experience from the whites--their abject state in -society--their incapacity of affording any accommodation to -travellers--and their ignorance of the Spanish language:--all these -contribute in some degree to render the accusation of invincible -stupidity, as Ulloa says, apparently true; but if an indian is in what -may be termed easy circumstances, though, alas! this very rarely occurs, -he is equally kind, generous, and hospitable with the creoles or -Spaniards. - -Among the animals indigenous to the new world, the lion, so called by -the Spaniards, by the Peruvians _pagi_, and by some others the _puma_, -is found in the mountainous parts of the aforementioned provinces. I -have already, when speaking of the province of Conception, given a -description of this animal, together with the depredations it commits, -and the manner of killing it. The habits of the puma in Peru are similar -to those of the same animal in Chile; any further description therefore -becomes unnecessary. - -The name of puma was given by the ancient Peruvians to some of their -most illustrious families, whose descendants are still called Caciques; -it seems as if there were two orders of distinction among them, bearing -the titles of the particular attributes of the puma and the condor. Of -these families the unfortunate Puma-cagua, or lord of the brave lion, -was a Cacique; Colqui-puma, lord of the silver lion, is another; of the -condor here are the families of Apu-cuntur, the great condor, -Cuntur-pusac, of eight condors, and Condor-canqui, condor by excellency, -or master of the order; this last family resides in the province of -Caxatambo. - -The _oso_, or _ucumari_, so called by the indians, is a black bear, -which frequents the mountainous parts of these districts. I never saw -but one domesticated; it stood two feet five inches high, and was four -feet nine inches long, the forehead flat, muzzle yellowish, two fawn -coloured spots above the eyes, and a larger one on the breast; the fur -black, long, and smooth; the small teeth placed behind the canine teeth. -The indians are more afraid of this animal than they are of the puma, -and relate many extraordinary tales about its ferocity; however I never -knew an individual who had ever seen it attack a human being, nor could -I obtain any correct account of a person being attacked by it. The -natives hunt the ucumari with the same dogs with which they chase the -puma, and the stuffed skins of these animals often adorn the corridors -of the farm houses; the indians eat the flesh of the puma--that of the -bear I have tasted, and found it very delicate. The bear usually feeds -on wild fruits and roots, and is destructive to the crops of potatoes -and maize. It seldom leaves the mountainous parts of the country, and -when chased will roll itself down the sides of the steepest mountains to -elude its pursuers. - -The _viscacha_ inhabits the higher ranges of the mountains, and feeds -principally on the moss which is nearest to perpetual snow: it is easily -domesticated, and the heat of the valleys does not seem prejudicial to -its health. This animal very much resembles a hare in its shape, but it -has a bushy tail as long as that of a cat; the body is covered with very -soft hair of a white and ash colour, which is as soft as silk; it was -formerly spun by the indians, and made into cloth for the use of the -Incas: thus it was the royal ermine of Peru. The flesh of the animal is -very savoury, and is considered a great delicacy. - -The _comadreja_, weasel, is found in different parts of these provinces; -it is about nine inches long, not including the tail, which is long and -well covered with hair; the body is round and very slender, covered with -short softish fur, of a pale yellow colour, except under the throat and -on the breast, where it is white; its legs are short and thick, and its -toes armed with sharp claws. This animal is remarkably active, runs very -fast, and seems almost to fly when it jumps; it is very destructive to -poultry, which it kills, and sucks the blood; it is also a constant -customer for eggs. When the natives kill one, which but seldom happens, -they preserve the skin whole, and use it for a purse. - -The _ardillas_, red squirrels, have a red stripe along the back; their -sides are grey, inclining to white near the belly, which is itself -beautifully white. This species is often found in the colder regions of -these provinces: it feeds on the seeds, and sometimes on the buds of the -molle and espino, called here _huarango_; it forms its habitation in a -hole among the rocks, which it furnishes with leaves, moss, and wool. -The grey squirrel is larger than the red; some of this species are -almost black, which the natives fancy are young ones, calling the -lighter coloured _canosos_, grey haired. These generally choose the -valleys or warm climates, and make their nests in hollow trees; they are -very destructive to _mani_, or ground nuts, plunder the plantations and -gardens of them, and carry their booty to their nests. They sometimes go -in bodies on marauding excursions, and if a river oppose their progress, -they embark on pieces of wood or the bark of trees, and cross it. I have -been assured at Pichiusa, that if the current drifts them down the -river, they will dip their tails in the water, so as to form a rudder, -and thus steer their fragile flotillas to the opposite shore. - -The mountain cat, _gato montes_, is found in the province of Huamalies, -in the woods bordering on the Maraņon; it is about three and a half feet -long, the skin is of a dirty yellow colour, with black spots and -stripes; the male has a black stripe running from between the ears along -the back. This small tiger is extremely beautiful, but it is very -savage; however it never attacks a man, and seldom molests the horses or -horned cattle; but it sometimes leaves the woods, and visits the farms -on the mountains in search of sheep and goats. The opossum, called by -the natives _muca muca_, and a species of armadillo, called _mulita_, -from the length of its ears, are found in the valleys; also a field rat -of a dark brown colour, having the tail rather club-shaped and somewhat -flattened: the flesh is considered very delicate eating. - -The _alco_ is the constant companion of the indians: it is a dog of a -middling stature, of a black colour, the body covered with woolly hair, -except on the breast and tail, where it is stiff and straight. They bark -on the approach of any noise, and will defend their charge, whether it -be the horse or cattle, against men or beasts of prey. Two kinds of -these dogs are known here, the one just mentioned, and another smaller -one, about the size of a lap dog, which the indians frequently carry. -They seldom or never bark, which circumstance perhaps gave rise to the -origin of the assertion, that "the dogs of South America do not bark." -The large alco is called _thegua_ in Chile, and the small one _kiltho_. - -Among the indigenous quadrupeds of Peru, the species of camel, by the -Spaniards called _carneros de la tierra_, demand the attention of a -traveller. These animals in many respects resemble the camel of the old -continent, but differ from them materially in others. They are less in -size, but of a more elegant form; they have a small head without horns, -but a large tuft of hair adorns the forehead; a very long, slender neck, -well proportioned ears, large round full black eyes, a short muzzle, the -upper lip more or less cleft; the body is handsomely turned, the legs -long and rather slender, the feet bipartite; the covering of the body is -a mixture of hair and wool, in different proportions, according to the -kind of animals. - -The lower jaw of each is furnished with six incisors, two canine teeth -and several grinders; the upper jaw with grinders only. Under the skin -the body is covered with fat, somewhat like the hog and the polar -animals, intended by nature to preserve a necessary degree of warmth, -because these animals inhabit the cold regions of the Cordillera. They -are all ruminating, and have four ventricles; the second, which is -composed of two, contains a number of cavities calculated for a deposit -of water. The animals are retromingents; the time of gestation is about -twenty-two weeks, and the female seldom brings forth more than one, -which she suckles, having two teats and an abundance of milk. They have -a callous covering on the breast or sternum, on which they fall, when -reclining, either to sleep or to receive a burden; this substance -appears to be destined to defend the part against any injurious -contusion among the rocks; when sleeping they have their legs completely -folded under the belly, and they rest on the breast. Their only means of -defence is an ejection of viscous matter from the mouth, which some -persons pretend acts as a caustic, producing small pimples, and a -species of psora, but this is false. - -The varieties are the llama, paco, or alpaca, guanaco, and vicuņa, or -vicugna. The size of a full-grown llama is as follows:-- - - - Ft. In. -Height from the bottom of the foot to top of the shoulders 5 5 -From the first vertebre in the neck to the point of the os sacro 6 5 -From the point of the upper lip to that of the cranium 1 1 -From the first vertebre of the neck to the last 2 5 -Height from the base of the foot to the spine of the os sacro 3 6 -Length of the callosity on the sternum 0 7 -Breadth of ditto 0 1 -Thickness of ditto 0 0― -Length of the penis 1 3 - - -The llama is by far the handsomest and most majestic animal of the -four; in its portly appearance it is somewhat like a stag, but the -gracefulness of its swan-like neck, its small head, and mild countenance -add much to its beauty. The colour of the llama is generally a pale -bright brown, but some are nearly white, others black, and others -mottled. The wool is coarse, but very abundant on the body, and -precludes the necessity of using pack-saddles. Nothing can exceed the -beauty of a drove of these animals, as they march along with their -cargoes on their backs, each being about a hundred pounds weight, -following each other in the most orderly manner, equal to a file of -soldiers, headed by one with a tastefully ornamented halter on his head, -covered with small hawks' bells, and a small streamer on his head: thus -they cross the snow-covered tops of the Cordillera, or defile along the -sides of the mountains. This sight is peculiarly interesting to a -stranger, and has in it what may be justly considered as something -characteristic of the country, where the mountainous tracts are ill -calculated for the service of horses or even mules. Indeed, the animal -itself seems to partake of the docility of its driver; it needs no whip -nor spur to urge it onward; but calmly paces on to its destination. Its -only means of defence, as before mentioned, is to spit in the face of -its oppressor; if too heavily laden with what it kneeled to receive, it -will refuse to rise until relieved of part of its load. - -The paco or alpaca of Peru is the chilihueque of Chile: it differs -considerably from the llama--its head is rounder, its legs are shorter -and thicker, and the body more plump; the skin is of a darker colour, -and the hair much longer and softer: like the llama it is used as a -beast of burden, kneels to receive it, and lies down if it be too heavy. -The paco bears more resemblance to a sheep than to a stag, and from its -great apparent strength seems better calculated to be used as a beast of -burden than the llama; but it is not so docile and tractable, it will -not follow the captain or leader, but generally requires to be led with -a string, passed through a small aperture made in the ear;--nor is it -more sure-footed on the ridges of the mountains. The pacos vary in -colour more than the llamas. - -The names of these two kinds are derived from alppaco--beast of the -country; and llamscani--that of burden, which the Spaniards translated -into carnero, sheep. It appears both from the names of these two -varieties, as well as from Garcilaso, Acosta, Sandoval, and other -Spanish writers, that they were domesticated before the arrival of the -Spaniards, yet the breeds have never been mixed, nor will they mingle, -for a very visible aversion exists between them, which, with the -striking difference in their construction and appearance, induces me to -believe them to be different species. They are certainly more alike than -the vicuņa and the huanaco, or to either of those; so that Buffon and -Linnæus were wide of the truth when they asserted, that the llama and -the vicuņa were of the same species, and equally so with respect to the -paco and the huanaco. - -The shape of the huanaco is very different from that of the paco--the -back of this is straight, while that of the former is hunched or -arched--the one being proper for a beast of burden, the other quite -improper. The height of the huanaco, from the fore foot to the tip of -the shoulder, is seven inches less than from the bottom of the hind feet -to the top of the rump or os sacro, on which account, when pursued it -immediately descends the mountains, leaping like the buck or the deer; -whereas, the other three species always endeavour to ascend the -mountains to escape the pursuit. The huanacos are of a dark brown -colour, inclining to white under the belly, where the hair is coarse -and shaggy. The forehead is rounder than that of the paco, the nose more -pointed and black, the ears straight like those of a horse, the tail is -short, and turned back like that of the stag. This species seems more -inclined to frequent warmer regions than the other three, and leaves the -mountains for the valleys, particularly in the winter season. The -huanaco is naturally gentle, and easily domesticated; but this is rarely -attempted, for in such a state it is of very little use to its owner. - -The vicuņa is the smallest species; it is about the size of a goat, the -back less arched than the huanaco's, the neck slender, and about twenty -inches long. The body is covered with a remarkably fine soft wool, of a -pale brown colour, which is sometimes woven; it makes an exceedingly -fine cloth, but it can only be used in its native colour, or when dyed -darker: very fine hats are also manufactured of it in Lima and other -places. The vicuņa seems to abound most in the Cordilleras, in about -eighteen degrees south latitude. - -The llama is now never found in a wild state, and the paco very seldom; -the huanaco is rarely domesticated, and the vicuņa scarcely ever, owing -partly to its natural timidity, and to the effect which a warm climate -has on it, often producing a kind of mange, of which the animal dies. As -already mentioned, the huanaco leaves the cold regions during the -winter, but the vicuņa never, always preferring to live among the snow -and the ice. All the four species like best to feed on the _ichu_ that -grows at the elevation of fourteen thousand feet above the level of the -sea, even in eighteen degrees of south latitude. The huanaco is caught -with dogs and the laso, or with a sling; this is made of a strip of -leather five or six feet long, to each end of which a stone weighing -about two pounds is fastened; the huntsman takes one of these stones in -his hand, and whirls the other round his head, then throws it at the -legs of the huanaco he has singled out, which becoming entangled with -the rope, the animal falls. The vicuņas being remarkably timid, fly to -the mountains, and it becomes impossible to follow them; so that for the -purpose of catching them several persons assemble, and take the side of -a mountain above the place where the vicuņas are seen feeding, and then -descending, drive them into a ravine, where they have previously -stretched a line with some rags tied to it; on approaching this the -affrighted animals collect into a cluster, and are generally all caught -and killed for the sake of their wool; this is not shorn; but the skins -are taken off, and sent to market. - -The meat of the llama and alpaca is often jerked and sold; but it is -coarse and dry; that of the young huanaco, however, is very good, and -that of the vicuņa is equal to the finest venison. - -The wool of the llama and the huanaco is only applicable to very -ordinary purposes; but that of the paco is manufactured into the most -beautiful blankets, which are as soft as silk--that of the vicuņa is -used as already mentioned. - -The _mulita_ and _quiriquincho_ are caught in the temperate and hot -valleys of Huamalies; the former is the eight-banded armadillo; it is -called mulita, or little mule, on account of its long ears, which -resemble those of that animal; this species is about eight inches long. -The quiriquincho is sometimes called _bolo_; it is the eighteen-banded -armadillo, and is about thirteen inches long from the snout to the end -of the tail. The bands are composed of a shell or shells lying -transversely on the upper part of the body, forming a kind of cuirass, -of a greyish or lead colour; the bottom part of the body is also covered -with a shell, and united at the sides with the upper shell like those -of the tortoise; they have four feet, short legs, a pointed snout, like -that of the hog, and a tail covered with scales, like that of the lizard -tribe. They form holes in the ground, in which they bring forth their -young, three or four every month, and feed them on fruits and -vegetables. When pursued, if on the mountains, they roll themselves up -and fall down the precipices, thus eluding their pursuers; but on the -plains they are easily caught, although they run very fast, and always -in a straight line; because their armour does not allow them to turn -round, except in a circular manner. When taken out of the shell their -flesh is very white, with a layer of fat similar to that of a hog. The -natives dress them in a curious manner; they separate the two shells, -clean the meat and season it with capsicum, salt, onions, and herbs, -place it in the upper shell, and cover it with the underneath one; they -then stew it in an oven, and it is certainly most delicious eating. The -children often twist the intestines into strings, and form small guitars -of the shells. - -The birds in these provinces consist of several species of eagles, -hawks, falcons, and kites; the gallinaso, several kinds of wild pigeons, -finches, a kind of thrush, blackbirds, and on the borders of the Maraņon -a great variety of parrots, but these never pass the mountains into the -valleys or ravines. The _picaflor_, humming bird, is found in all the -warm climates of these districts. I have counted five varieties, and -have often caught them with my hat, when the fairy-like creatures have -been employed in sipping the honey of the plantain flower. - -The majestic condor holds his court in the mountainous parts of South -America, and makes excursions in search of food to the valleys and the -coast. Three varieties inhabit these provinces, the largest is called -moro moro; the ruff which encircles the neck and back is of a dark grey -colour; the latter is produced from some feathers in the wings of this -colour, which when folded fall on the back, and form what the natives -call the cloak; but the short feathers on the back as well as the rest -of the body are of a deep black colour. The male of this species is -distinguished from the female by a large crest on the head like a crown; -the neck being covered with short hairs appears naked, of a dark blue -colour; the skin forms folds or curls round the neck of the bird, at the -bottom of which is a ruff of grey feathers, each about ten inches long -and rather curled. This bird measures from thirteen to fifteen feet from -the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. - -The second variety has the ruff and cloak of a light brown or pale -coffee colour; it measures from eleven to thirteen feet; the third has -the ruff and cloak white, and measures from nine to eleven feet; this -variety abounds most, and is the most elegant. - -Dr. Unanue says, that in a dissection of this bird he found no vessel of -communication between the lungs and the spongy substance of the -clavicles; and he affirms that there is no communication between the -stomach and the trachea; that the superior cavity of the body is lined -with a delicate transparent pleura, divided into several small cells; -that the lungs descend to the lower cavity of the body, and the -posterior part of them adhere to the spine and ribs, and that these are -perforated at the union, which perforation communicates with the spongy -body in the inside of them. The texture of the lungs is very porous, and -when inflated by blowing through the trachea, a quantity of air escapes, -and fills the large and small apertures that surround them, as well as -those of the sternum and ribs. - -From this construction, it would appear, that the bird is endowed with -the powers of forming a vacuum in a considerable portion of the body, to -assist in rendering the whole lighter, and thus to enable it to soar to -the enormous height of nineteen thousand feet, where the atmosphere is -of much less density than at the earth's surface. - -The beak of the moro moro is four inches long, very thick, and curved; -black at its base, and white towards the point. The thigh is ten inches -and a half long, the leg only six inches; the foot is furnished with -four strong toes; the middle toe, which is almost six inches, is -terminated with a whitish curved talon, two inches long; the two lateral -toes are not so long; and the three have each three joints; the hind toe -is two inches long, the nail one, and this toe has only one joint. The -tail is entire, but small in proportion to the size of the bird. The -large quills in the wings are commonly two feet nine inches long, and -the barrel more than three-quarters of an inch in diameter. The three -varieties all build their nests on the most inaccessible cliffs, and lay -two large white eggs. - -The condors feed either on carcases, or on animals which they themselves -kill; lambs and kids always require the care of the shepherd or the dog; -and calves, if at a distance from the cows, frequently become their -prey. They generally make their first attack on the head, and tear out -the eyes. I once saw some condors attack a cow which had sunk into a -quagmire and could not extricate herself; the first attack of these -animals was on the anus, whence they drew out the intestines, and thus -killed the animal, without regarding the noise that we made, as if -sensible that we should not venture to rescue her from the mire. They -are so voracious, and will feed to such a degree, that they cannot rise -from the ground, but run in search of an eminence whence they can throw -themselves on the wing. They soar aloft and swim in the air without any -motion of the wings being visible. - -The vegetable productions are wheat, barley, maize, pease, beans, -lentils, quinua, potatoes, camotes, yucas, arracachas, ocas, radishes, -turnips, cabbages, cauliflowers, lettuces, mangle wurzle, beet, apples, -pears, guinds, peaches, almonds, apricots, grapes, melons, pine-apples, -plantains, bananas, and several other equinoctial fruits; the woods are -molle, cedar, huarango, alerce, and in the forests bordering on the -Maraņon cascol, caoba, nasareno, with many other varieties, and -excellent cinchona bark near to Arancay. - -The mineral productions are gold, silver, mercury, tin, iron, coal, -sulphur, ætites, and several kinds of marble; but as no quarries have -been wrought, and only some few samples are found in the possession of -different persons at Huaras, Corongos, and in that of various parochial -curates, the extent of the veins remains unknown, as well as the -peculiar qualities of the stone. Many other mineral productions, unknown -at present, will undoubtedly become objects of importance to the -geologist, mineralogist, and chemist, now that the revolution has -secured the independence of the country, and scientific individuals may -visit it, which was not the case when the Spanish colonial laws were in -force. To the botanist and florist the same opportunity presents itself, -and South America may almost as justly be termed a new world, as it was -when discovered by the indefatigable, ill-rewarded Columbus. - -The remains of antiquity in any country attract the notice of a -traveller; different individuals view them through different mediums, -but all observe them in some light or other; some for their beauty and -symmetry, as monuments of extraordinary genius and labour; others as -merely picturesque, romantic ornaments in the prospect, relieving the -dreary, or enlivening the interesting scenery; others search for -combinations of features, and endeavour to account for the origin in the -imitations; and others merely wonder how and for what purpose such -immense labour was undertaken. Notwithstanding this diversity of tastes, -all examine, and each in his particular province admires; but alas! -though philosophical researches are of the highest importance to -history, yet in South America the monuments which present themselves -only serve to evince the intolerant spirit of the European nation which -invaded this part of the new world: a people who demolished the temples, -labouring under the influence of superstition; and destroyed the palaces -and other public buildings under the influence of cupidity, in search of -hidden treasure; and this with such wanton barbarity, that only vestiges -remain to shew where the works of nations and of ages once stood--to -exact the tear of the surviving native, the sigh of the sympathizing -visitor, and to reproach the Spaniard and the creole with the lawless -havoc of their forefathers. - -The remains of the Incas' road, or the military causeway, which Humboldt -says "may be compared to the finest Roman roads I have seen in Italy, -France or Spain," passes through Huamalies alto, and in some places is -perfectly straight for more than half a league; it is generally lined -with freestone, and evinces the labour of an industrious obedient -people, and is scarcely to be equalled except by the Chinese wall; -especially if we consider the extent of it, from Cusco to Quito, which -is a distance of not less than seven hundred leagues. It was most -probably built at different periods, by the orders of the different -reigning Incas, as they enlarged their conquests; and the continuation -might possibly be the first tax or duty imposed on the conquered -nations. Some parts of this road are at the astonishing elevation of -twelve thousand four hundred and seventy-five feet above the level of -the sea; indeed it is almost every where so situated, that the marches -of the army, or the Inca on his passage, might not suffer from the hot -climates in the valleys. - -Near to the village of Baņos in Huamalies is a spring of hot water, -where some very capacious baths were built by the Incas, similar to -those at Caxamarca, but more extensive. The ruins of a large building, -called the palace of the Inca, are found at a short distance from the -baths; it was built of stone, and is like those of Caņar and Callo, in -the province of Quito. The situation is beautifully romantic; it is the -summit of a mountain, and commands an extensive prospect of the river -Maraņon, the woods and forests to the eastward, and the mountains and -valleys to the westward. The building can only be traced by the -foundations and fragments of walls, all of stone, so exactly cut, or -perhaps ground by rubbing the sides together, that the interstices are -scarcely perceptible. It contained several enclosures, which were -probably a kind of barracks for the army. Near to the palace are the -ruins of a temple, of a circular form, and on the top of two mountains, -one on each side of the river, are the remains of two fortresses, the -sides of the mountains being divided into a sort of galleries one above -another; in some parts these are formed by building breastworks, and in -others they are cut out of the solid rock, the breastwork being left in -the solid stone. The indians assert, that a subterraneous passage under -the river opened a communication between the two fortresses; and however -improbable the execution of such a work may appear to modern architects, -yet the possibility and almost the proof exists in the very astonishing -works of labour and art executed by the Peruvians. - -The diseases most prevalent in these provinces are, pulmonic -inflammations, inflammatory fevers, _bicho_, and _pasmo_. The indians -have applied the name _dolor de costado_, pain in the side, to the -pleurisy. When under the direction of a regular practitioner, the -Spanish method of curing is by bathing the affected part with oil, and -taking expectorants; but the method observed by the indians accords much -better with the practice in England. They scarify the part with a sharp -knife, and if the flow of blood be not sufficiently abundant, a person -applies his mouth to the incisions and extracts the blood, this -answering all the purposes of cupping. Some whip the side affected with -nettles, and then bathe it with hot vinegar, applying afterwards a -cataplasm of garlic, onions, and the flour of beans. - -The inflammatory fever called _tabardillo_ is common in the hot as well -as cold climates. The curative method adopted by the indians may, in its -prognostic, be considered an improvement on the cold affusion. Some clay -is procured, and mixed with water until it acquire the consistency of -batter, the patient is smeared all over his body with it; after an hour -or two an examination takes place, and if the clay has become parched, -and is peeled off, death is considered to be the inevitable result; but -if it be cracked, and the pieces adhere to the body, a favourable result -is expected. This is most probably the fruit of observation, as I -believe the science of medicine among such people generally is; but the -effect of the application in the latter case is a copious perspiration, -which is absorbed by the clay, by which an adhesion to the cutis takes -place, and prevents it from falling off; thus the experiment, if not at -first founded on scientific principles, has been undoubtedly supported -by practical facts. - -The _bicho_ is an endemical disease, known only in the hot valleys; it -is an ulcer of a gangrenous tendency in the colon, and if not attended -to in time is generally mortal. The indians use very stiptic injections, -and believe the origin to be caused by a grub, _bicho_. Those who reside -in cold climates, and when in the valleys eat abundance of fruit, are -most subject to this disease. - -The _pasmo_ is generally brought on by wetting a wound, or ulcer, with -cold water; it is particularly prevalent in the hot climates of the -valleys; it is a general nervous convulsion; the first effects are a -tetanus, after which the most excruciating pains afflict the patient, -until relieved by death, for no remedy has as yet been found effectual. - -The bronchocele, or goitres, is common in some parts of these provinces, -particularly in the neighbourhood of Huacaibamba; it is a disagreeable -affliction without any known antidote. - -The syphilis, as I have before observed, is extremely virulent in the -cold climates of the interior; the usual remedies applied are -sarsaparilla, guaiacum, and sassafras, but very seldom mercury, owing to -the dread that the natives have of its administration. - -Madness in dogs was unknown in America until the year 1803, when it made -its appearance along the coast between Paita and Lima; in 1807 many were -affected with it in Lima, to the southward as far as Arica, and -Arequipa, and to the northward of Lima in the valleys of the interior. -Dr. Unanue says, "after having collected all the data, and having -consulted those of the faculty, and other intelligent persons who had -witnessed the effects, I have deduced, - -"Firstly--That this spontaneous madness originated in the excessive -increase of heat in 1803 and 1804, which caused almost all kinds of -animals to throw themselves into the pits and lakes to refresh -themselves. - -"Secondly--That this disease attacked indiscriminately all kinds of -quadrupeds, some of which, in the most furious manner, tore the flesh -from their bones with their teeth: several men were also affected with -symptoms of hydrophobia without having been bitten by any animal. - -"Thirdly--It was most common among dogs; but some, although apparently -affected, caused no symptoms in their bite except the ordinary ones; but -from the bite of others on their own species, other quadrupeds, and men, -the most dreadful symptoms of hydrophobia were propagated. On one of the -plantations an overseer distributed among the slaves the meat of several -animals which had died mad, believing that the meat was not contagious; -but several of the negroes who ate of it died in a state of madness. - -"Fourthly--In the cities of Ica and Arequipa the greatest number of -persons died from the bite of mad dogs. At Ica one dog bit fourteen -individuals in one night. Notwithstanding the advice of the surgeon -Estrada, they all refused medical assistance except two--the remaining -twelve died. The method of cure adopted was, a caustic applied to the -part affected, suppuration was promoted, and mercurial unctions were -applied until a copious salivation was established. Professor Estrada -says, that forty-two persons died at Ica, at different epochs from -twelve to ninety days after they were bit. The symptoms were -convulsions, oppression in the chest, languor, difficult respiration, -horror at the sight of liquids or any shining substance, atrabilious -vomit, and great fury against the nurses. After the first appearance of -these symptoms, death ensued within about five days." - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - Travels to the North of Lima....Village of Pativilca....Of - Huarmey....Of Casma....Cotton Mill....Santa....River Santa.... - Nepeņa....Farm of Motocachi....Vineyard....Port of Santa...._Tambo - de Chao_....Viru....Truxillo....Itinerary between Lima and Truxillo - ....Description of Truxillo....Buildings....Inhabitants....Climate - ....Commerce....Jurisdiction....Arms....Plain de Chimu...._Huaca de - Toledo_....Tradition of....Huanchaco Port....Valleys of Chimu, - Chicama, and Viru....Productions....Road to Caxamarca....Contumasa - ....Magdalena....Gold Mines....View of Caxamarca....Origin of Name - of....Description of....Buildings....Inhabitants....Arts and - Manufactures of....Visit to San Pablo....Market of Caxamarca - ....Trade of....Hot Baths....Description of. - - -As soon as the political affairs of South America rendered it safe for -an Englishman to travel unsuspected, I visited some of the northern -provinces. I remained at Pativilca a few days, and then prosecuted my -journey to Huarmey: this is a small indian village, famous only for -chicha, which is remarkably strong, eighteen gallons only being made -from three bushels of jora, malted maize. The next village is Casma, -where a considerable quantity of cotton is grown, and where a mill for -separating the seeds is established by Don Benito Canicova. The -machinery is very simple--a large drum or hollow cylinder is put in -motion by two mules or oxen; straps pass round this drum and round a -small wheel attached to a fluted steel cylinder, about half an inch in -diameter; in the same horizontal line there is another similar steel -cylinder: when put in motion, the cotton is applied to the steel -cylinders, which drag it between them, separating the seeds from it, and -these fall down on the side next the workmen, while the cotton is thrown -out on the opposite side. A very powerful screw-press is used for -packing the cotton, which is generally exported to the European market. - -The soil here is sandy; the climate, owing to the position of the place, -which is enclosed on three sides by high mountains, is hot, and the -cotton is very fine; on this account Casma will probably become more -populous than it is at present, and a town of more note. The pine-apples -which grow here are very fine, and many of them are carried to Lima. - -Our next stage brought us to Santa, having passed the small hamlet of -Huambacho. Santa is the residence of the Subdelegado, and capital of the -district of the same name; it is the poorest in Peru, for when a -corregimiento its distribution, repartimiento, amounted only to -twenty-five thousand dollars, and its alcavala to two hundred. The town -is composed of about thirty ill-built houses and ranchos; the old town -stood near to the sea coast, and was much larger than the present one, -but it was destroyed in 1685 by Edward David, a Dutch pirate; the -inhabitants afterwards established themselves about half a league -further from the coast. The King granted to this hamlet the title of -city, on account of the gallant resistance which the inhabitants made -against David, and particularly for their having preserved from the -hands of the pirate a miraculous image of Christ crucified, the gift of -the Emperor Charles the Fifth, and which is still venerated in the new -church. - -About two leagues to the northward of the town is the river Santa; it -rises in the province of Huailas, and enters the Pacific in 8° 57ī 33īī -south latitude. At the mouth it is about one thousand eight hundred -yards wide, and its current, during the rainy season in the interior, -often flows at the rate of seven miles an hour; at this time of the year -it cannot be forded without great risk. In 1795 a rope bridge was thrown -across it, about a league from the mouth, but this was destroyed in 1806 -by an unprecedented rise of the water, which caught the bridge and -dragged it away. - -The valley of Santa contains some good farms, which are principally -covered with lucern, and great numbers of horned cattle are fattened -here for the Lima market. Some maize is also cultivated for the feeding -of hogs, the lard of which is carried to Lima; here also they have fine -crops of rice; indeed such is the heat, the natural dampness of the -earth, and the abundance as well as the quality of the water (which like -that of the Nile enriches the soil) used for the purpose of irrigation, -that three successive crops are often procured from the same seed. - -About six leagues to the eastward of Santa is a very neat town, called -Nepeņa; the climate is far more agreeable than at Santa, and the -inhabitants are not incommoded with musquitos, which are very annoying -at the former place, owing to the low swampy ground, where they breed in -such prodigious quantities, that it is sometimes almost impossible to -breathe without inhaling them. Their bite is very troublesome, and many -of the inhabitants, from continually scratching themselves, become -almost covered with an eruptive disease similar to the _carati_ at -Huaura; along the coast it is common to hear the Santeņos called -_sarnosos_, from _sarna_, the itch. In the neighbourhood of Nepeņa there -are several sugar plantations and vineyards. The farm called Motocachi -is famous for producing excellent wine, which in flavour is not -inferior to the best muscatel of Spain, or the frontignac of France. The -brandy made from the same grape is also peculiarly delicate, possessing -all the flavour of the wine; it is in great demand, and is called -_aguardiente de Italia_. - -The port of Santa has a safe anchorage, and is capable of containing a -considerable number of vessels; during the time of peace between England -and Spain many South Sea whalers touched here, for the purpose of -procuring fresh provisions; and considerable business in the smuggling -line has been carried on. This port and town will undoubtedly become -more known and more frequented, because its situation offers an easy -internation to the provinces which I have lastly described, and a saving -of upwards of a hundred leagues of land carriage to some of them. Callao -is now the only _Puerto abilitado_; but the newly-established -governments will not be so ignorant of their financial interests as to -suffer it to continue so. - -We left Santa early in the morning, and arrived before noon at _Tambo de -Chao_, a house built of rushes in a sandy desert, nine leagues from -Santa; having refreshed ourselves a little, and fed the mules, we -proceeded to a small village called Viru, where we halted for the -night, and on the following day we arrived at the city of Truxillo. - -The following short account of the road from Lima to Truxillo will -convey some idea of the nature of travelling, and the kind of -accommodations which travellers may expect who have to visit these -countries. Some persons have _literas_, litters, for this purpose: they -are square boxes, with an opening on each side which serve for -entrances; a small mattress made to fit is placed at the bottom; this -vehicle is then fastened to two poles, one on each side, and these are -secured on the backs of two mules, on the foremost of which a boy is -generally placed, to guide the animal. This mode of travelling is very -disagreeable, owing to the various motions communicated to the litera; -the elasticity of the poles causes it to rise and fall, while the steps -of the mules make it sometimes roll from side to side, and sometimes it -is jerked backwards and forwards; so that a person unaccustomed to this -mode of travelling is almost sure to experience all the effects of a -sea-sickness, besides a universal soreness in his limbs, occasioned by -the jolting of the litter. - - - From Lima to Chancay 14 leagues, 11 of sand. - Chancay to Huaura 13 ditto 9 of sand. - Huaura to Pativilca 13 ditto 9 of sand. - Pativilca to Huarmey 18 ditto 15 of sand. - Huarmey to Casma 8 ditto 7 of sand. - Casma to Santa 12 ditto 10 of sand. - Santa to Tambo de Chao 9 ditto 9 of sand. - Tambo de Chao to Viru 10 ditto 10 of sand. - Viru to Truxillo 10 ditto 8 of sand. - - -We have here one hundred and eight leagues of road, one-half of which -leads through a sandy desert country, the greater part of which must for -ever remain so: this is principally owing to the total absence of rain, -the scarcity of river water, or the impracticability of irrigation; but -wherever water can be procured, the scene is quite different; -comfortable farm houses, neat villages, and the most luxurious -vegetation enliven the views to the weary traveller; the eye soon -becomes tired with a dreary sandy prospect, or with now and then -beholding a few leagues of the sea coast; but it rests with pleasure and -is refreshed with the prospect of fertile valleys, clothed in the -luxurious garb of spring or autumn--where the evergreen sugar-cane, the -lucern, the hedges, and the ripe crops of grain are blended; which is -the case here during the greater part of the year. - -The city of Truxillo stands on a sandy plain in lat. 8° 6ī 3īī S.; it -was founded by Francisco Pizarro, Marquis of Charcas and Atavillos, the -conqueror of Peru, who named it after his native place in Estremadura; -its figure approaches to that of an oval, it is surrounded with a wall -of adobes or sun-burnt bricks, ten feet high, having fifteen bastions -and as many curtains; it was erected by order of the Viceroy of Peru, -Duke de la Palata. The streets of this city cross each other at right -angles in a north-east and south-west direction, and are generally about -forty feet wide. The houses, like those of Lima, are generally but one -story high; many of the fronts are white-washed, and some of them -fancifully painted. The principal mansions have large patios in front, -and an arched door-way or entrance; the insides are richly furnished, -but not in the English style; long sofas, high tables, and few chairs, -having an awkward appearance to a foreigner; the walls are hung with -crimson damask, and the sofa and table covers are of the same material, -as well as the curtains and the bed furniture. In many houses, large -paintings of saints, in richly embossed silver frames, adorn the walls, -and the wealth of many of the inhabitants is displayed in a profusion of -wrought plate. Some of the shops in _la Calle del Comercio_ are well -stored with European manufactured goods; but, as in Lima, no display of -them can be made for want of windows, a convenient enticement to -purchasers unknown in these parts of the new world. Although the streets -of this city are well laid out, of a commodious width, and lined with -neat houses, they are not paved, and consequently are very dirty; some -of them are nearly impassable on this account; indeed the shoes of a -passenger must be filled either with sand or dirt. - -The plasa mayor, or great square, is very large, and has a low fountain -built of stone in the centre. On the east side stands the cathedral, -which is a handsome building with one steeple; the inside is richly -ornamented, and a great profusion of plate and other costly articles is -exhibited on solemn festivals; but, like all the cathedrals in Spanish -America, the site occupied by the choir destroys the effect which would -otherwise be produced by the high altar standing in the central nave. -This church was consecrated in the year 1673, by the thirteenth bishop -of the diocese, Don Fray Juan de la Calle y Heredia. Attached to the -cathedral on the north side, is the Sagrario or principal parish church, -although always called a chapel; indeed it is the chapel of ease to the -cathedral, where all the parochial duties are performed, without -interfering with the choral and other religious ceremonies of the -matrix. - -On the opposite side of the cathedral stands the palace of the bishop; -it is a large old decayed building, the inside of which is fitted up in -a style of antique magnificence, for every succeeding bishop has -generally purchased the furniture which belonged to his predecessor. The -palace has an upper story, which is occupied by the bishop and his -domestics; in the lower is the ecclesiastical prison, the different -offices, stables, &c. - -On the north-west side of the plasa are the palace of the governor, and -the government offices, such as the royal treasury; the _callana_, where -the plata piņa is melted and stamped and the royal fifth is paid; also -that of the secretary to the governor. The whole range of buildings has -a low and mean appearance. The two remaining sides of the square are -filled with the houses of private individuals, among which is that of -the Marquis of Bellavista, the only title in Truxillo. - -Besides the cathedral there are three parish churches, Santa Ana, San -Sebastian, and San Esteban; five conventual churches of San Francisco, -Santo Domingo, San Augustin, La Merced, and the ex-Jesuits; and two -nunneries, the barefooted Carmelites, and Santa Clara. The convents are -governed by their prelates, who are subject to their respective -provinciales in Lima: in the college of ex-Jesuits a seminary is -established, and the college of San Carlos is subject to the bishop. The -nuns of Santa Clara are under the direction of the Franciscan prelate, -as belonging to that order; and the Carmelites are under that of the -ordinary, the bishop; there is also a hospital managed by the Bethlemite -friars. - -The inhabitants of Truxillo consist of a few Spaniards, some white -creoles, indians, negroes, and the castes arising from the mixture of -these, amounting in the whole to about eight thousand souls. This city -is celebrated as being the birth-place and residence of some very -handsome _mulatas_ and other females of colour; indeed the features of -many are very pleasing, and the castes remarkably free from those stains -which not unfrequently render the complexion of coloured people so very -disagreeable. Truxillo is noted for its Quixotic nobility; it is often -said, that the body of this celebrated Don was buried here; I have -frequently seen in the house of a mulatto or a zambo a full-length -portrait of the individual, who by a kind of faux pas caused them to -emerge from the African race, and sable colour, and of whom they speak -with as much respect as the _montaņeses_ do of Don Pelayo, whose -descendants they all pretend to be, or as any nobleman of England would -do of Ptolemy or Alexander, if he fancied that he could trace his -pedigree either to the Egyptian astronomer or the Macedonian hero. - -There is nothing peculiar in the dress of the inhabitants; the men wear -their clothes nearly in the European style, with the addition of a cloak -or a poncho; the females, unlike to those of Lima, may be seen in the -streets in their in-door dresses, but seldom with either hat, cap, or -bonnet; their heads being usually covered with a shawl. The higher -classes, and all who can afford it, have _calesas_, a close carriage on -two wheels, drawn by a mule, on which the coachman rides. The general -_paseo_ for the ladies is to _Mansiche_, a small indian village to the -northward of the city, about half a league from the walls, where they -resort during the cool of the evening mounted on asses, having a kind of -pack-saddle covered with very gay trappings of crimson broad-cloth or -velvet, embroidered and fringed with gold or silk. The ladies ride -sideways, and frequently two are mounted on the same ass, with their -feet hanging on the opposite sides; one of the ladies generally wears a -small spur. At Mansiche they treat themselves with _picantes_, dishes -highly seasoned with aji, cayenne pepper; they also drink chicha, and -generally return to the city about sunset. - -The climate of Truxillo is colder than that of Lima during the winter -season or the damp months, and much hotter during the summer. The market -is plentifully supplied with fish, flesh meat, poultry, bread, -vegetables and fruit; and is much celebrated for delicate sweetmeats, -among which the preserved muscadine grapes are most esteemed. - -Little commercial business is here transacted, and the city owes great -part of its prosperity to its being the residence of the governor, the -bishop, and the several persons employed in the civil and ecclesiastical -departments. - -The jurisdiction of the Gobernador Intendente extends along the coast -from the river Saņa to the river Santa, and eastward to the Maraņon. As -it includes many valleys and several mountainous districts, in it all -the various climates may be found. The civic jurisdiction of the -alcaldes is the same here as in other cities in the Spanish colonies. - -The ecclesiastical jurisdiction contains thirty-one doctrinal curacies; -it is in the hands of the bishop, who is assisted by his vicar-general, -provisor, and the chapter, which is composed of the dean, the -archdeacon, the chanter, four canons and two prebendaries. - -The arms of the city are a shield, azure, bearing a griffin; in the -centre two columns, one blue, the other white, over water, in which -there is a crown, Or, crossed by two bars, Argent, underneath which is -the letter K. - -Truxillo suffered very much from earthquakes on the 14th of February, -1619--the 6th of January, 1625--the 20th of October, 1759--and the 2nd -of September, 1759. The last shock was very violent, and some of the -valleys near the coast, which, before it happened, produced the most -abundant crops of wheat, became quite sterile for more than twenty years -afterwards. - -The plain on which the city of Truxillo is built is called _del Chimu_, -this being the title of the sovereign chief who resided here, and -signifying the powerful Lord: this chief, after resisting the Incas of -Peru from the time of Lloqui Yupanqui to that of Pachacutec, the tenth -Inca, at length subjected himself, swearing allegiance to the Inca at -the fortalice of Paramonga. In the plain are the ruins of the ancient -residence of the Chimu; they appear like the foundations of a large city -or the walks of a garden, crossing each other at right angles, and -denote the residence of the numerous tribe which formerly inhabited this -site, and prove, also, that their chief had a respectable force at his -command, with which he could oppose the incursions of the imperial army; -this he continued to do until the Incas, by gradually augmenting their -army with soldiers collected from the numerous tribes, which for nearly -a century they had been annexing to their empire, were able to subdue -this chief of the coast. - -The custom of burying with the dead whatever belonged to them at their -decease seems to have been prevalent among the Chimu tribes, for their -huacas contain utensils, arms, clothing, and treasure, exactly in the -manner as those of the indians in other parts of Peru. The same -attention is also paid to economizing land fit for cultivation: the -ruins just mentioned being situated on an elevated plain, where water -could not be procured for the purpose of irrigation. In the year 1576, a -Spaniard, named Juan Gutierres de Toledo, opened a huaca, which was -supposed to have been that of one of the Chimus, in which he found so -large a quantity of gold, that he paid into the royal treasury of -Truxillo nine thousand three hundred and sixty-two ounces of gold, as -the royal fifth, the value of the whole being upwards of a hundred and -fifty thousand pounds sterling. - -The tradition respecting the discovery of this treasure is as -follows:--Toledo was a poor Spaniard, who, on his arrival at Huanchaco, -the sea-port to Truxillo, took up his residence at the house of an -indian named Tello: Toledo was of a mild disposition, and endeavoured to -conciliate the good-will of his host, which he easily accomplished; he -afterwards removed to Truxillo, and with the assistance of Tello opened -a small store; the friendship of the Spaniard and the indian increased, -so that Toledo became godfather to one of the children of Tello, which -is considered to this day as the greatest favour that a white man can -show to an indian. Tello one day told his friend that it was in his -power to repay all the kindness which he had received, and to make his -friend rich by giving to him a huaca, which, after some preliminary -arrangements, he did. Toledo followed the directions of his friend, and -found the value already mentioned in bars, and some household utensils -of gold. Having thanked his guide who had conducted him to the wealth he -had acquired, Tello told him that on a future day he would give him the -great fish, the one which he had given him being only the little fish; -but he died without discovering it, or giving him any clue to find it. -Toledo, in gratitude to the memory of his benefactor, redeemed the -tribute of the indians of Huauchaco by paying a certain sum of money -into the treasury, the fruit of which just and generous action the -indians still continue to enjoy; and a native of the village always -carries with him, if he go to reside in any other part of the country, a -certificate of his birth, which every where frees him from the payment -of this tax. This action of Tello clearly proves that a South American -indian is not incapable of possessing those feelings which have been -denied to their character by some of their visitors and historians. - -The great fish mentioned by Tello is generally believed to be a mountain -or large hill near to the huaca de Toledo, and visible at Truxillo. This -hill has every appearance of having been formed by art; it stands on the -sandy plain of Chimu, quite isolated, and seems to be nothing but a huge -portion of sand, which being poured down from an eminence would assume -the shape which this mound bears. Many persons have attempted -excavations, but the falling down of the loose materials, of which the -hill is formed, has prevented the continuation of the work. If an adit -were cut through it there is little reason to doubt but that an immense -treasure would be found. Humboldt speaks of the same experiment being -worthy of attention when describing the Teocalli of Cholula. - -The sea-port to Truxillo is called Huanchaco; it is a roadstead in which -the anchorage is not good, and where the landing, owing to the surf, is -attended with considerable inconvenience; this, however, might be partly -removed by the erection of a pier, which will probably be effected when -the commerce with this part of Peru becomes interesting. The latitude of -Huanchaco is 8° 6ī--the church, which stands on an eminence, is an -excellent land-mark. - -The valleys of Chimu, Chicama, and Viru, may be considered as one, being -separated from each other only by the branches of the Chicama river. -United they are about twenty-eight leagues long and eleven broad; their -soil, irrigated by the waters of the river, is very fertile, producing -most abundant crops of wheat, maize and other pulse, as well as grapes, -olives, sugar-cane, plantains, pine-apples, lucumas, guavas, mamey -apples, custard apples, tumbos, chirimoyas, guanabanas, together with a -variety of esculents, potatoes, camotes, yucas, radishes, &c. Formerly -the valley of Chicama was called the granary of Peru, and until the -great earthquake in 1687, the wheat produced its seed two hundred fold; -this valley alone harvested annually two hundred thousand bushels of -this grain. Here are many sugar plantations, but for want of hands they -are not so well cultivated, and consequently not so productive as those -in the valleys in the neighbourhood of Lima and Pisco. Little doubt can -be entertained but that this beautiful and fruitful valley, at some -future period, will become one of the most interesting settlements on -the coast of Peru, on account of its great extent, the quality of its -soil, and the abundance of water. Cotton and rice appear to claim -particular attention, but their cultivation has hitherto been little -promoted. - -I left Truxillo with the _chasquero_, postman, which is a commodious and -quick way of travelling, and especially if the person has no luggage, or -can trust it to a muleteer to follow him; because the postman demands a -horse or a mule at each stage, for which is paid a real, or one-eighth -of a dollar per league. After travelling along the valley of Chicama -about eight leagues, we stopped at a small village, called Simbal, -changed horses for mules, and then began to ascend the _cuesta_; we -continued to travel in this manner, with now and then a small descent or -a little level road, till we arrived at Contumasá, at ten o'clock at -night, having ridden twenty-one leagues in eleven hours. Although the -latter part of the road appeared rugged from the frequent stumbling of -the mules, I was obliged to allow mine to take its own choice, because -for the last three hours the darkness prevented me from seeing how to -direct it. - -The village of Contumasá is situated on an eminence where the climate is -much colder than that which I had just left; the houses are either -thatched or tiled, and the whole of the country, habitations and people, -appear different. The glow of a tropical sky at sunrise and sunset was -changed to a pale blue, with light white clouds, or more dense ones -charged with rain; the houses were so constructed as to exclude the rain -and the cold; the clothing of the inhabitants was calculated to answer -the same end, and all indicated a change like that from summer to -winter; but the transition was so sudden, although expected, that in the -morning, when I went into the corridor of the house where I had slept, I -could not help looking on all around me with a certain degree of -surprize. This village is composed of a long street, a plasa, and a -church; some of the houses have a neat comfortable appearance, but the -inhabitants are said to be somewhat akin to the Conchucanos. After -taking mate, with some bread and cheese, we left Contumasá, and arrived -in the evening at a hamlet called la Magdalena, situate in the bottom of -a deep valley; the climate is very hot, and is considered unhealthy; -small patches of sugar-cane, yucas, camotes, and some of the fruits of -the coast, are here cultivated. At a small distance from the hamlet -there are some abandoned gold mines, called _de los Portugueses_: it is -said that they were formerly wrought by some natives of Portugal, and -belonged to the unfortunate Juan Bautista, a Portuguese Jew, who was -burnt by the inquisition of Lima in 1705. - -We changed mules at la Magdalena, and immediately began to ascend the -cuesta by a winding road, some parts of which are very steep; having -gained the summit, and travelled about three leagues across the top of -the mountain, covered with long dry grass, _pajon_, we reached the -cumbe, an eminence from which the valley and city of Caxamarca form a -most beautiful prospect. - -The valley of Caxamarca is about five leagues long, and three broad in -its widest part, forming an irregular oval. Many white country houses -present themselves, and numberless ranches of the indians; the whole -plain is intersected with green hedges, which divide it into several -hundreds of small plots of ground, all apparently in the highest state -of cultivation, at least all bearing most luxurious crops: the river -winds along the valley from one extremity to the other, bursting as it -were from the embraces of the hills at one end; after gambolling along -the valley, distributing health and vigour to the vegetable tribes, it -again sinks into the arms of the mountains at the other. The city -presents a most delightful prospect in the foreground at the foot of the -cumbe; the spacious streets, intersecting each other at right angles, -the large plasa mayor in the centre of the city, the spires and domes of -the churches, and the neatly tiled houses, all contribute to enhance the -beauty of the view; while at a short distance from the city, in the back -part, vapours are continually rising from the hot baths. Not only is the -sight of Caxamarca very interesting, but feelings of sympathy swell the -bosom of the stranger who looks on it;--it brings to his recollection -the unmerited sufferings and death of the Inca Atahualpa, who here fell -a sacrifice to the unparalleled treachery and detestable cruelty of the -Spanish conqueror, Pizarro. - -After a rather tedious descent, we arrived at the city, and as I -determined to remain here for some time, for the purpose of visiting -whatever might appear to me interesting, I took apartments in a private -house, where I remained during my stay in this part of America, and -where I soon became like one of the family--enjoying every kindness my -good host could lavish on me, for all which he would only accept a -trifling recompense. - -The name of this city is derived from _cassacmalca_, place of frost; -however, the climate is very benign, the maximum of the thermometer -during my stay being 72° of Fahrenheit, and the minimum 40°; but it more -probably obtained its name from the blights occasioned by the frosty -winds from the east, which are very injurious to vegetation. - -Here is a parish church, called _la Matris_, belonging to the white -inhabitants, dedicated to Santa Catalina; it is a handsome edifice of -stone, neatly wrought; the front is very much ornamented with carved -work, in good sand stone; it has three doors opening into the three -naves of the church. The interior is neat, but not rich; the whole -expence of the building was defrayed by an order of Charles II. from the -royal treasury, during the Viceroyalty of the Duque de la Palata. The -two parishes of indians are San Jose and San Pedro: to the former in -1810 was given the beautiful conventual church of San Antonio, which -formerly belonged to the Franciscans. Here are the conventual churches -of San Diego and la Merced; the nunnery of la Concepcion, and a hospital -belonging to the Bethlemites. The church of San Antonio is a fine -structure, approaching to the chaste gothic style; the two rows of -pillars in the interior that support the roof, which is composed of some -light groined arches, are slender, and the whole effect is very -pleasing; it has much the appearance of a small cathedral, unencumbered -with the central choir; the whole building is of white stone, dug from a -quarry near to the city. The church and convent of San Diego are -remarkably neat stone buildings; the cloisters, cells, kitchens, and -other offices are arched with stone; and the extensive gardens belonging -to them are enclosed with walls of the same wrought material. It belongs -to the grey friars of San Francisco, but seldom more than two or three -reside here. It once happened, that there were no other residents than -the guardian, or prelate, and a lay brother, who was an Andalusian; the -former thought proper to threaten the latter with corporal punishment; -when he immediately replied to his superior, that if he did not -moderate his anger, he would deprive him of his superiority. But how? -exclaimed the enraged prelate: by hanging my habit on a peg, and leaving -your fathership without an inferior, replied the _donado_. - -The church belonging to the nunnery _de la Concepcion_ is a handsome new -structure; at the time of my present visit to Caxamarca it was not -finished, but when I returned in 1812 it had been consecrated, and -divine service was then performed in it. The church belonging to the -hospital is built of carved stone, and a profusion of workmanship -ornaments the front of the building. Here are two wards, or rather two -hospitals; that for men is within the cloisters of the convent, and that -for women is a separate stone building, divided from the convent by a -street. The surgeon is paid from the indian tribute, and few but indians -go to the hospital. - -The population of this city is composed of white people and indians, a -small number of negroes, and the mixed breeds; the excess is in favour -of the indians and mestisos, called here quinteros; the total amount is -about seven thousand. Here are some descendants of Spanish nobility, -particularly the family of Bonifas, who are the lineal descendants of -the family of Ximenes, to which the Cardinal Ximenes, Regent of Spain -to the Emperor Charles V. belonged, and who are in possession of many -interesting papers, which were the property of that celebrated -statesman. Among the Indians is the family of the Cacique Astopilco; -they claim a lineal descent from the Inca Atahualpa, and inhabit part of -the palace which was formerly occupied by the imperial family, the place -where Atahualpa was murdered. The generality of the inhabitants are -industrious, and their workmanship in silver and iron is deserving of -much praise. I have seen many very handsome sword blades and daggers -made here, pocket steels, and bridle bits most curiously wrought, beside -several well finished pistol and gun locks; on this account the -Caxamarquinos are often called the Biscayans of South America. -Literature would prosper here were it properly cultivated; the natives -are fond of instruction, and scholars are not rare; many of the richer -inhabitants send their children to Truxillo and Lima to be educated. -Kindness, hospitality, and innocent amusements, characterize the -citizens of Caxamarca, and some of the most agreeable hours of my life -have been spent in this town. - -I cannot avoid giving the description of a visit to a most eccentric -character, a native of this place, who resided at a sugar plantation, -of which he was proprietor, about nine leagues from Caxamarca. I had -often been pressed by my friend to visit San Pablo; and having appointed -the day, two mules arrived the preceding evening, one for myself and one -for a nephew to my host, Don Mariano Alvites. On the following morning, -at five o'clock, we mounted, with two black men as an escort, carrying -their long lances, as if any danger could be apprehended on the road. -Having arrived at the top of a mountain, which we were obliged to cross, -it began to rain, and our descent on the opposite side was attended with -considerable danger; however we arrived safely at the bottom; our mules -had often to bring their hind feet close to their fore feet, and then -resting on their haunches they would slide down a distance of from -twenty to forty yards at a time. We halted a few minutes at the bottom, -when one of the negroes pointing to a small house about two miles off, -said, my _amo_, master or owner, waits your arrival at that house which -stands on the border of his estate, where he intends to welcome you on -your arrival, and where a breakfast is prepared. We walked our mules -leisurely along, and shortly heard the report of a camareta; this is a -small mortar, having a two or three inch bore, and about eight inches -deep, at the bottom of which is a touch hole; it has a handle, and -looks very much like a large tankard; it is loaded with powder, and then -filled with dry clay, which is beat very hard with a mallet; it is then -placed on its end with the mouth upwards, and a train is laid to it; -when fired the report is equal to that of an eight pounder. - -Such a report a little surprised me, and the sound, which re-echoed from -the mountains on every side, had a very pleasing effect. Alvites now -said to me, my uncle is in a good humour, prepare yourself to be more -teased with his peculiarities than what we now are with the rain. About -a mile from the small house we could see our friend Don Manuel de -Verastegui, y Oliva, advancing slowly and majestically, like a Lord -Mayor's procession, to meet us: had Cervantes witnessed this sight, -there is no doubt but he would have taken him for the knight of his -enchanting romance. - -At the distance of eight or ten yards our friend alighted from his -dappled charger, and approached to salute us; we remained on our mules, -enjoying his profound bow, hat in hand, and "a more unpleasant morning," -said he, "never brought to San Pablo, the humble residence of Don Manuel -de Verastegui, two more welcome visitors than those whom I have now the -honour to address; allow me to say, you are indeed welcome;" when, -without waiting a reply, he remounted his steed, and we trotted along to -his rancho. This kind old gentleman was dressed in a coat, waistcoat and -breeches of blue velveteen; the coat being lined with Catalonian chintz, -full of large red flowers on a white ground; the huge buttons on his -coat and waistcoat were of silver; he had on a pair of high military -boots, and had a small triangular cocked hat on his head; his hair was -curled on the sides, and tied behind in a long cue, _a lo militar de -Carlos III._; a silver-hilted trusty toledano was girt to his side by a -broad black belt, which passed round his waist; he appeared to be about -sixty, and in stature he might be six feet; he was also remarkably -slender and very upright. His saddle trappings were of crimson cloth, -ornamented with silver lace and fringe. Two blacks accompanied him on -horseback, the one held a huge crimson umbrella over his head, while the -other rode before him with his lance, _hasta de rejon_: they were both -in old liveries, and wore cocked hats with yellow worsted lace, but were -bare-legged. On our arrival at the lodge, if so I may call it, we were -saluted with another camareta, and shortly after we rode under the -corridor and alighted. Several negro boys immediately took our ponchos -and hats to the kitchen to dry, and we entered and sat down to a very -sumptuous breakfast; a roasted kid hot, boiled turkey cold, collared -pig, ham and tongue, with butter, cheese and olives, besides which, wine -and brandy, _pisco_, and several _liquers_ were on the table; tea, -coffee, and chocolate, were afterwards brought in, and a cup of each was -placed before every one of us. - -After breakfast we again mounted, and the rain having ceased, our ride -to the farm-house was very agreeable. On our arrival, the lady of the -house came into the corridor to receive us, with her two daughters. Doņa -Casimira and Doņa Rosaria, each upwards of thirty years old: we -alighted, and after the first ceremonious salutations were over, we -retired to two rooms prepared for us, and changed part of our dress, -having taken the precaution of bringing linen with us from Caxamarca. -When we returned to the drawing-room, our host had changed his dress -also: he now wore a very old-fashioned green velvet full-dress, almost -covered with embroidery and spangles. Doņa Casimira sat down to a -harpsichord, and played several pretty airs, and her sister afterwards -sung some _tristes_ to her guitar. As the ground was wet. Don Manuel -proposed a dance before dinner and a walk afterwards; this was assented -to, and I danced a minuet with Doņa Rosaria; Alvites excused himself; -but our host and hostess walked a minuet, to my no small diversion. - -We had a very sumptuous dinner, walked out during the afternoon, and in -the evening were joined by a party of about twenty persons; after which -we continued dancing, singing, and feasting till daylight, when my -companion and I returned to Caxamarca, Don Manuel accompanying us to the -lodge, where he most ceremoniously thanked us for favouring him with our -company, and then wished us a pleasant ride. - -The market of Caxamarca is well supplied with flesh meat, poultry, -bread, grain, vegetables, fruit, and every necessary, all of which are -cheap: cheese and butter are plentiful; of the latter a fresh supply is -brought from the country every day. Some very fine fruits are also -obtained from the valleys, such as paltas, the vegetable marrow, -chirimoyas, and pine-apples, particularly from that part called _de las -Balsas_, where the road to Chachapoyas crosses the Maraņon. - -This city carries on a considerable trade with Lambayeque and other -places on the coast, furnishing them with the different home -manufactured articles; such as baizes, bayetones, _paņetes_, a kind of -coarse cloth, blankets, flannels, tocuyos, &c., and receiving in return -European manufactures, soap, sugar, cocoa, brandy, wine, indigo, _hierba -de Paraguay_, salted fish, iron, steel, &c. The inhabitants of the -interior resort to Caxamarca as a kind of mart, for the purpose of -selling their own produce and manufactures, and for purchasing others -which they may require; hence, a considerable trade is carried on, and -some of the shops are well stored with European goods, similar to those -which I mentioned when speaking of Huaras. Articles of a superior -quality are in demand here, for the poorer classes wear their own -manufactures; but the richer dress in European goods of the best -quality. - -At the distance of a league from Caxamarca are the baths of the Inca: -two comfortable dwelling houses are built of stone on the two sides of a -large patio, each having an extensive bath: that on the right hand is -five yards square, and two deep. The sides and bottom are formed of -roughly hewn stone, having steps at two of the corners, leading down -from two doors, which open to different parts of the house; and others -in the centre of the opposite side, communicating by a door with a large -room. On the left is another bath, smaller than this; it is called _de -los pobres_, and it has convenient rooms also attached to it. At the -entrance to the patio is a corridor to the right and left, which serves -as a stable; and in the front there are two kitchens, and a passage that -leads through the building. It was at these baths that the unfortunate -Atahualpa resided when Pizarro arrived at Caxamarca. - -The spring of hot water, called _el tragadero_, is at the back of the -building, and is at the distance of two hundred and thirty yards from -it; it is circular, of five yards in diameter; I sounded it with fifty -yards of rope, but found no bottom; the land all round it to the -distance of more than a mile is almost level, declining a very little -towards the river, which runs at the distance of four hundred yards from -the tragadero. The water appears to boil, but having only one -thermometer with me, and being fearful of damaging it where its place -could not easily be supplied with another, I did not measure its heat. -The natives scald their pigs here when they kill them, and as I have -observed that boiling water rather fastens the bristles on the skin, I -concluded that the heat of the water is below the temperature at which -it generally boils when heated in the ordinary way. I filled two tin -coffee pots, the one with water from the tragadero, the other with -water from a cold spring; I placed them together on the same fire, and -observed that the cold and the hot water began to boil precisely at the -same time. I placed an egg in the tragadero, secured in a small net, and -allowed it to remain eight minutes; it was then quite hard and the yolk -dry. I allowed another to remain three minutes, which when broken was -soft; I placed another in the hot water, allowed it to remain three -minutes, and put it immediately into boiling water on a fire with a cold -raw egg; after boiling five minutes they were both equally hard, and -when cut no difference could be observed except in the taste;--the one -which had been placed in the tragadero had a slight clayey taste, -somewhat similar to that of water which has passed over a bed of clay. - -The water of the tragadero empties itself into a channel three feet -wide, and on an average six inches deep, which from several experiments -I observed to run at the rate of three feet in a second. By this -experiment it appears, that about thirty hogsheads of water are -discharged in a minute. Along the sides of the channel the grass and -other vegetables, particularly the ichu, grow to the very margin of the -stream; and the fields of lucern which are irrigated with this water, -at the distance of five hundred yards from the tragadero, are the finest -in the valley. The fruit trees also that grow in the gardens belonging -to the baths, apples, pears and peaches, are never subject to the blight -from the frosty air so common in the neighbourhood; being apparently -protected by the steam which continually rises from the hot water. The -principal stream contains many small fishes of a black colour, very much -in shape like small shrimps; if these be put into cold water they -immediately die. They appear to be continually swimming up the stream, -as if to avoid being carried by it to the confluence of the cold stream -from the Santa Rosa springs with that of the tragadero, where they would -most certainly perish. - -The water which flows from the spring called de Santa Rosa, which is -only seventy-two yards from the tragadero, is always at 41° of -Fahrenheit at the mouth of the spring, where it bursts from a rock. The -baths are supplied with water of any temperature, by mixing the hot from -the tragadero with the cold from Santa Rosa; and as there is an outlet -at the bottom as well as at the top of each bath, a constant supply of -fresh water is maintained. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - Historical Sketch of Caxamarca, Huaina Capac, Huascar Inca, and - Atahualpa....Arrival of Pizarro at Tumpis....At Caxamarca.... - Spanish Embassy....Harangue of Soto....Answer of Atahualpa....Visit - of Atahualpa to Pizarro....Discourse of Friar Vicente Valverde, to - Atahualpa....Answer of Atahualpa....Imprisonment of....Offered - Ransom of....Cause of the Jealousy of Pizarro....Arrivals of - Treasure....Accusation, for the Trial of Atahualpa....Sentence, - Baptism, Execution, and Burial of....Interesting Remains - in Caxamarca. - - -Caxamarca is a place interesting in the history of Peru; it was here -that the Inca Atahualpa resided when Pizarro landed at Tumpis, now -Tumbes, in the mouth of the Guayaquil river. The residence of Atahualpa -at this place was accidental, as will appear from the following -historical sketch, which I have endeavoured to make as correct as -possible, with the assistance of the works of Garcilaso, Gomara, Zarate, -and others; collated with the oral traditions of the indians of this -province, and particularly the Cacique Astopilco, as well as those of -Quito. - -Huaina Capac having conquered the kingdom of Quito, married -Paccha-chire, daughter of the Quitu, or King of that country; she bore -him a son, who was named Atahualpa, whom some writers have erroneously -called Atabalipa, Atalipa, and Atalpa. His eldest son, by his wife, the -Empress Rava Ocllo, born at Cusco, was called Inte Guri Hualpa; but on -the day of the Apu-ņaca, he was named Huascar, under which name he is -always known as Inca of Peru. Huaina Capac died at Quito, and left to -Atahualpa all that territory which had formerly belonged to the Quitu; -and to Huascar the remaining part of the empire, on condition that -Atahualpa should do homage to his brother Huascar, as legitimate -descendant of the Sun. - -The disappointment of Huascar at finding a brother whom he had -considered a bastard thus elevated, made him determine on his -destruction; but he first procured a delay which might allow him to -assemble his troops, and at the same time to probe the intention of -Atahualpa. He therefore sent a messenger to inform him, that by the will -of their father, he and his kingdom were tributary to the Inca of Cusco; -and that, as he intended, so soon as the great feast held on the day on -which the sun passed the zenith of Cusco was over, to extend his -conquests to the southward, he required a certain number of armed men -from Quito, as a tributary quota. Atahualpa perceived the drift of the -subterfuge, and determined to avail himself of this opportunity to -forward his own views, and to acquire to himself the sole sovereignty, -which he perceived was the aim of his brother. He sent a considerable -force, with orders not to enter Cusco, but to remain in the -neighbourhood, and to conduct themselves as men sent to assist Huascar -in his future conquests; but on the day of the great festival, to enter -the city, and when all were employed in the religious rites of the day, -to possess themselves of the Inca, and to bring him as his prisoner. -Atahualpa, with another army, proceeded to Caxamarca, to await the -result of the expedition sent to Cusco; they succeeded in taking -Huascar; and the imperial insignia, a red tassel, which the Inca always -wore on solemn occasions, hanging on his forehead, was sent to -Atahualpa, who was now considered as Inca of Peru. - -At this time the Spaniards had landed in Peru, at Tumbes, and after -possessing themselves, not without great opposition on the part of the -natives, of that place, Pizarro began his march towards the south. -Atahualpa was at Caxamarca, and his brother Huascar prisoner at -Andamarca, about forty leagues from Pachacamac. Atahualpa immediately -sent his brother Titu Atanchi as his ambassador to Pizarro, with most -magnificent presents, including two golden bracelets worn only by the -Incas, to welcome the arrival of the Viracochas, to solicit their -protection, and to invite them to visit him at Caxamarca. Huascar at the -same time, although a prisoner, found means to send his ambassadors to -Pizarro, informing him of the situation in which he was placed by -Atahualpa, and craving his protection. - -Pizarro now found himself the arbiter of the fate of two monarchs, both -soliciting his friendship and protection, and each alleging his own -right to the empire of Peru; but Pizarro determined that it should not -belong to either of them, and the only thing that engrossed his -attention was the safest and easiest means of possessing himself of the -treasures of both. He therefore determined to go first to Caxamarca, -judging that the reigning Inca would be in possession of the greater -wealth, and Hernando Pizarro was afterwards sent to Pachacamac. - -Francisco Pizarro pushed forward to Caxamarca, where he arrived with a -hundred and sixty soldiers. At this time Atahualpa was at the baths, and -Pizarro sent to him as his ambassadors his brother Hernando Pizarro and -Hernando de Soto, and as interpreter an indian named Felipe, a native -of the Puná island, in the Guayaquil river; these were accompanied by -two hundred noble indians, appointed by the Curaca of Caxamarca to -attend on them; Atahualpa being informed of the approach of the two -Spaniards, ordered one of his generals to form his troops and do them -the honors due to the children of the Sun. On their arrival at the -palace they were immediately presented to Atahualpa, who embraced them, -and said, "welcome, great Viracochas, to these my regions!" and having -two seats covered with gold brought in, he ordered them to sit down. -Atahualpa then, speaking to his courtiers, said, "behold the -countenance, the figure, and the dress of our god, the same which -appeared to my antecessor Inca Viracocha, and whose arrival was also -predicted by my father, Huaina Capac." A species of wine was brought, -and the Inca taking one of the golden goblets, the other was given to -Herando Pizarro, to whom the Inca bowed, and drank a small quantity, -giving the goblet to his brother Titu Atanchi, who drank the remainder; -two more were then brought, and the Inca taking one, sent the other to -Soto, to whom he bowed, and drank a little of the beverage, and gave the -goblet to his other brother, Choquehuaman. Different kinds of fruit -were then presented to the ambassadors, of which they partook with -Atahualpa. - -Hernando de Soto rose, bowed to Atahualpa, resumed his seat, and -delivered his embassy, stating, that "in this world there were two most -potent princes, the one was the high Pontiff of Rome, Vicar-general to, -and representative of God on earth, who governed his church and taught -his divine law. The other was Charles V. Emperor of the Romans and King -of Spain. These two monarchs," said Soto, "being informed of the blind -idolatry of your highness and all your subjects, have sent our Governor -and Captain-general Don Francisco Pizarro, his companions, and some -priests, the ministers of God, to teach your highness and your vassals -the divine truths of our holy religion, and to establish with your -highness everlasting relationship, concord and peace." - -To this harangue, interpreted by Felipe, the Inca answered to the -following effect:--"Divine men, I am most heartily glad that you and -your companions have arrived at these regions during the days of my -life, for your arrival has fulfilled the vaticination of my forefathers, -but my soul is sorrowful, because others must also be now fulfilled; -notwithstanding, Viracochas, I welcome ye as the missioners of our God, -and hope that the changes prophesied by my father, Huaina Capac, and now -about to take place, will lead to the good of myself and my people; it -was on this account that neither I nor my captains have opposed your -progress, as the natives of Puná and Tumpis did, because we believe you -to be the children of our great God Viracocha, and messengers of the -eternal all-creating Pachacamac--in obedience to our laws, and to the -orders and injunctions of my father, we have received ye, and will serve -and worship ye; but have pity on me and on my people, whose affliction -or death would be more distressing to me than my own." - -Pizarro and Soto begged leave to retire to their own camp at Caxamarca, -and Atahualpa embraced them, and said, that he should soon follow them, -to enjoy the company of the children of his God, Viracocha, the -messengers of the great Pachacamac. When the two Spaniards had mounted -their horses, presents of gold were carried to them by several noble -indians, who begged of their divinities to receive those humble marks of -their respect and adoration. Pizarro and Soto then repaired to Caxamarca -with their rich presents, astonished at the enormous quantities of gold -which they had seen at the palace of Atahualpa. - -On the following day, Pizarro placed his cavalry, composed of sixty -men, on each side of the square of Caxamarca, behind some high walls: in -the centre of the square he had built a small breastwork, behind which -he placed his two field-pieces, and behind these he stationed his -infantry, a hundred men, and thus awaited the arrival of the Inca. - -Atahualpa made his appearance on a throne of gold, carried on the -shoulders of his courtiers and favourites, with a guard of eight -thousand of his soldiers in front, eight thousand on each side, and -eight thousand more in the rear, besides an immense number of nobles and -attendants. The troops were commanded by Rumiņavi, who advanced in -front, and acted as herald. Friar Vicente Valverde stepped forward a -short distance in front of the Spanish infantry, holding a cross of palm -leaves in his right hand, and waited the arrival of Atahualpa, who was -surprized to see a figure so different from the strangers whom he had -seen the preceding day; and being informed by Felipe, the interpreter, -that Valverde was the captain of words, and the guide to the supreme -Pachacamac, and his messenger, Atahualpa approached, when Valverde began -his most extraordinary harangue, requesting Felipe to translate it to -the Inca as he proceeded to deliver it. - -"Know, most famous and most powerful Inca, that it is necessary and -requisite that thou and thine be taught the true Catholic faith, and -that ye now hear and believe what follows. - -"First, that God, trinity in unity, created the heavens and the earth, -and all things in and on them; that he will reward the good with life -everlasting, and the bad with interminable punishment. This God created -man out of the dust of this earth, and gave him a soul, which is the -likeness of God himself; so that every man has a body and a soul. - -"The first man was called Adam, whose children we all are. This Adam -sinned against the commandment of his Creator, and in him all men that -have been born, and that shall be born, sinned also; excepting Jesus -Christ, who is the Son of God, and the Virgin Mary, who came to redeem -us from the bondage of sin, and at last died on a cross that we might -live. The cross was like unto this which I hold in my hand and show to -thee, that thou with all Christians may adore and reverence it. - -"Jesus Christ rose from the dead, and after living again on earth the -space of forty days, he went up into heaven, and sat himself down on -the right hand of his Father; he left on earth his Apostles, who left -their successors to teach the true religion, and guide all men to -heaven. - -"Saint Peter was appointed the prince of the Apostles and the vicar of -Christ, and after him his successors the Pontiffs of Rome, whom the -Christians call Popes, who have the authority of Christ on earth, and -who always have and do preach to, and teach all men the word of God. - -"Whereas the Pope who is now living on this earth, knowing that the -people of these countries did not serve the true God, but worshipped -idols and the likenesses of the devil, hath determined to bring them to -the true knowledge of religion, and he hath given the conquest of these -countries to Charles V. Emperor of the Romans, the most powerful King of -Spain, and Monarch of all the earth, to the end that he, having -subjected to himself all these people, their kings and lords, and -destroyed all rebels, may reign and govern all these nations alone, and -bring them to the knowledge of God and to obey his church. Our most -powerful King, although employed in the government of his great kingdoms -and provinces, accepted the gift of the Pope, for the sake of the health -of these people, and has sent his captains and soldiers to execute his -will, as they have done in former times, in the conquest of the great -islands and countries of Mexico, having overcome them with his powerful -arms, and brought them to the true religion of Jesus Christ, which he -was ordered by God to oblige them to embrace. - -"Wherefore the great Emperor Charles V. appointed as his lieutenant and -ambassador Don Francisco Pizarro, who is here present, that these the -kingdoms of your highness may receive the like benefits; as also to form -a perpetual confederation, alliance, and friendship, between his majesty -and your highness, in such manner, that your highness and your kingdoms -may become tributary to him, that is, by paying tribute ye may become -his subjects; also that you may surrender to him every part of your -territory, and renounce the administration and government of it, in the -same manner as other kings and lords have done. This is the first -condition: the second is, that peace and friendship being established, -and you subjected either by will or by force, shall truly obey the Pope, -and receive and believe the faith of our God, Jesus Christ, and despise -and totally abjure the abominable superstition of your idols; you will -then soon observe how holy our religion is, and how false your own, -which was invented by the devil. All this, oh King! if you believe, you -must freely surrender yourself, because, to you and yours, it is of -great importance; and if you object to it, know that you will be -persecuted with a war of destruction: all your idols shall be thrown -down upon the ground, and we will force you with the sword to abandon -your false religion, whether ye will or not; and you _shall_ receive our -Catholic faith, and you _shall_ pay tribute to our king. Should you -obstinately resist this, believe me, that God will permit, as he -formerly did when Pharaoh and his host perished in the Red Sea, that you -and all your indians perish by the edge of our swords." - -Felipe, the interpreter of this discourse, was a native of the Puná, -where the Quichua language generally spoken in Peru was not understood; -and what little he knew of it he had learnt of some Peruvians, who at -different times had visited his native island. The Spanish that he spoke -he had acquired during the time he had lived among the soldiers whom he -served; thus it cannot be expected that he gave to Atahualpa a faithful -translation of this absurd harangue, equally filled with -incomprehensible matter, furious bombast, and unjust threats; indeed -many mistakes are recorded, such as one God, trinity in unity, which he -translated one God, and three, four Gods; that God made dust of man on -the earth, which they could not possibly understand; and many other like -passages were rendered equally ridiculous. The impossibility of -translating the words trinity, unity, Jesus Christ, Virgin Mary, Roman -Pontiff, Emperor of the Romans, &c. is quite obvious, for they could -bear no translation at all, and a description of their meaning was as -much above the powers of Felipe, and perhaps of Valverde himself to -explain, as the comprehension of Atahualpa to understand, who now for -the first time heard that such things did exist. - -When Atahualpa had heard the conclusion of this rodomontade fulminated -by Father Valverde, he sighed, and said, "ah! atay"--ah! how hard; and -after a short pause, he addressed himself thus to Valverde: "I should -feel happy, although every other request were denied me, if one were but -granted: procure a better interpreter, that I may be enabled to -understand what you have said; and that you may be better informed of -what I wish to say. I make this request, because I am certain that this -meeting ought to produce other things than what this fellow has repeated -to me. From what I have heard, it appears that you have come to destroy -the race of the Incas, and put to the sword all the indians who do not -understand you. If you are the ministers of vengeance of Pachacamac, and -come to destroy me and mine, fulfil his orders--none of us fear death, -and the vaticination of my father brings us to meet you unarmed. - -"Your interpreter has informed me of five great men, whom I wish to -know, God, trinity in unity, four gods; Adam, on whom all men threw -their sins; Jesus Christ, the only man that did not assist in loading -Adam; Pope, Roman Pontiff; and Carlos Quinto, King of all the world; but -he tells me, that I am to give my country and my people, and pay tribute -to Carlos, and not to any of the other four. I am also told, that I must -abjure my religion, and believe in Jesus Christ, who died. If this be -true, I cannot forget the great Pachacamac, who made our God, the sun, -immortal, unless I learn who has told you what I have heard from your -interpreter." - -This answer was translated by Felipe in short sentences, as Atahualpa -spoke them; who perceiving the ignorance of Felipe, endeavoured by this -method to prevent a misconstruction of his words. On hearing the last -question, Valverde gave his breviary to Atahualpa, and told him through -Felipe, that that book informed him of all that he wanted to know -respecting the true God. The Inca folded over the leaves, examined the -book, placed it against his ear and listened, then said, "it is false, -it cannot and does not speak," when he let it fall. At this, Valverde -cried out, "to arms, Christians! these infidel dogs have insulted the -minister of your Redeemer, the word of God is thrown under -foot--revenge! revenge!" - -The soldiers immediately rushed on their unsuspecting victims; Pizarro -flew to Atahualpa, well aware that the preservation of his life was of -the utmost importance; but upwards of twenty thousand indians fell, -before the fury of the Spanish soldiery could be restrained, or their -more than barbarous thirst for blood was glutted. During this scene of -horror, the afflicted Atahualpa exhorted his people to resign themselves -to the will of Pachacamac, which he himself was willing to do, and not -to lift up their hands against the Viracochas; thus, he exclaimed, will -the vaticination of my forefathers be fulfilled. - -What a contrast! a minister of the meek, the blessed Jesus, the Saviour -of the Gentiles, calling on an unfeeling soldiery to satiate their -blood-thirsty cruelty in murdering those very people whom his divine -master said that he came to redeem! while a king and a father beholds -the carnage of his people, and his children, and bows his head to the -believed decree of his God, and the prophecy of his forefathers! Here -the Christian calls aloud, "crucify him! crucify him!" while the pious -Gentile seems to say, "forgive them, Father, for they know not what they -do." - -Pizarro and a soldier, called Miguel Astete, arrived at the same moment -close to the throne of Atahualpa, when Pizarro caught hold of the robes -of the Inca, and dragged him to the ground; Astete plucked the red -tassel from his forehead, and kept it till the year 1557, when he -delivered it to the Inca Sayritupac. After the slaughter, the Spanish -soldiers proceeded to plunder, and while Pizarro was attentive to secure -the Inca, part of his troops proceeded to the baths, where Atahualpa -resided, and possessed themselves of all the gold and silver which they -could find: the weight of gold taken at the baths, and accounted for, -amounted to fifteen thousand ounces. - -Atahualpa was directly removed to a room in his own palace at Caxamarca, -and loaded with irons. Pizarro immediately sent his brother Hernando to -visit Huascar in his prison, and to endeavour to secure the treasure -that he might be possessed of; but whether the indians belonging to -Atahualpa, who had heard of the situation of their Inca, suspected that -Pizarro intended to put Atahualpa to death, and place Huascar on the -throne; or whether Hernando Pizarro endeavoured to deprive the guard of -their prisoner, is uncertain; but some misunderstanding having taken -place, an indian struck Huascar with his axe, of which wound he -immediately died. - -Atahualpa having observed that the Spaniards were more covetous of gold -than of any thing which his kingdom produced, proposed to Pizarro a -ransom for himself; standing on his feet, he raised his hand, and -placing it on the wall, he said, "to this mark will I fill this room -with vessels of gold, if you will free me from these chains and from -this prison." To this Pizarro agreed, and messengers were sent to Quito, -Cusco, and different parts of the country, for the purpose of collecting -the gold and sending it to Caxamarca. Some of the Spanish officers went -with the messengers of Atahualpa, and when they returned they described -the number of indians which the country contained, and the universal -obedience to the Inca in such terms, that they fancied a general rising -would take place, and instead of gold, they would bring their arms and -put all the Spaniards to death; that Atahualpa had deceived them, and -was a traitor, and as such ought to be punished. Pizarro opposed this -for some time, till an accident occurred which touched his pride, and -made Atahualpa personally odious to him. Some of the Spanish officers -had written the word God on the hand of the Inca, and when he shewed it -to any one, the person would point upwards; at length he shewed it to -Pizarro, who could neither read nor write, and was therefore unable to -make any sign of the meaning of the word. Atahualpa was surprised, and -Pizarro was abashed; his feelings were wounded, and he began to hate the -man who had discovered him to be more ignorant than his inferiors. -Atahualpa began to forebode his doom, and became dejected; his own -servants were not permitted to wait on him; their places were supplied -with indians who had attached themselves to the Spanish camp; some of -whom were unacquainted with the Quichua language, had never been the -vassals of Atahualpa, and all of them were inclined to insult him. - -The indians began to arrive from different parts, bringing with them the -gold which they had been assured would ransom their captive monarch; -but that which by them was destined to save his life was changed by his -cruel masters into the cause of his death. From the number of indians -who arrived daily, the Spaniards began to fear a revolution in favour of -their prisoner: they had already received an enormous quantity of gold; -Huascar was dead, and Pizarro presumed, that by securing to himself the -possession of the country, he should consequently become master of the -treasures which it contained. He therefore determined to bring Atahualpa -to trial; for which purpose, he constituted himself president of the -court, and nominated the other members. The following is a copy of the -charges exhibited against the unfortunate Atahualpa, on the baseness of -which all comment is unnecessary--the mere reading must draw from every -sympathizing heart detestation of the inhuman proposer and promoter. - -That Huaina Capac having had several wives, and Huascar Inca, being the -first-born of his Empress Rava Ocllo, was the legitimate heir to the -empire, and Atahualpa not the son of Huaina Capac, but the bastard of -some indian of Quito. That Atahualpa did not inherit the empire -according to the will of his father, but was an usurper and a tyrant; -and that Huascar was the lawful Inca, according to the will of his -father and the right of inheritance. That Huascar had been murdered by -order of Atahualpa, after the arrival of the Spaniards. That Atahualpa -was an idolater, and obliged his vassals to sacrifice human beings to -his idols. That Atahualpa had waged unjust wars, and thereby murdered -many indians. That Atahualpa had kept many concubines. That Atahualpa -had recovered, spent, and lavished in excesses the tributes of the -empire, after the Spaniards had taken possession of it, giving to his -relations and friends treasure belonging to the public funds. That -Atahualpa had, during his imprisonment, advised his captains and indians -to rebel against the Spaniards, and put them to death, for which purpose -he had mustered a considerable force of armed indians. - -After this shameful libel had been read to the court by Sancho de -Cuellar, Pizarro stated, that all those who should now attempt to defend -the life of Atahualpa were traitors to the crown of Castile and to the -Emperor, their master, and might be justly accused of opposing the -increase of his kingdom and revenue. That the death of the tyrant -Atahualpa would secure to Castile an empire, and to all present their -lives and fortunes. That if any one opposed his death, it should be -reported to his Majesty, that he might reward his faithful servants, and -punish those who endeavoured to deprive him of his right. After this -diabolical harangue, it is almost unnecessary to say, that the -unfortunate Atahualpa was sentenced to death. - -Atahualpa was immediately informed of his fate, and told, that if he -were baptized, he would be put to an honourable death, such as was -inflicted on noblemen in all civilized countries; but if he refused to -receive this sacrament, he would be burnt to death: hearing this, he -desired Friar Vicente Valverde to baptize him: the friar complied with -the request, and called him Juan Atahualpa. He was then led out to the -place of execution, in front of his own palace, where he was tied to a -pole, and strangled; and his body received Christian burial on the spot -where he was murdered, notwithstanding his last request--that he might -be carried to Quito, and buried in the tomb of his forefathers. - -Pizarro attended the execution of his prisoner, afterwards wore mourning -for him, and ordered his exequies to be performed with all possible -pomp. It may perhaps be satisfactory to some of my readers to mention -here, that Pizarro was afterwards murdered by his own countrymen at -Lima; and Father Valverde, by the Indians of Quispicancha. According to -Zarate, the treasure which had been brought for the ransom of Atahualpa, -and which fell into the hands of Pizarro, amounted to four hundred and -ninety-eight thousand ounces of fine silver, and one million five -hundred and ninety-one ounces of gold. - -The places in Caxamarca worthy the notice of a visitor, as having been -connected with the fate of Atahualpa, are a large room, part of the old -palace, and now the residence of the Cacique Astopilco, where this -ill-fated monarch was kept a prisoner for the space of three months, or -from the first day of his meeting Pizarro to the day on which he was -murdered by order of that general; in this room also is the mark which -he made on the wall, promising to fill it to that height with silver and -gold as a ransom. In the chapel belonging to the common gaol, which was -formerly part of the palace, the altar stands on the stone on which -Atahualpa was placed by the Spaniards and strangled, and under which he -was buried. Near the fountain in the plasa are still visible the -foundation stones of the small battery erected by Pizarro, in the front -of which Valverde delivered his famous harangue to the Inca, and whence -he commanded the Spanish soldiers to massacre the indians. About a -league from the city are the baths where Atahualpa was living when -Pizarro arrived; the one on the right hand is called the bath of the -Inca. Near to the baths there is also a farm house belonging (1812) to -Doņa Mercedes Arce, where there are many ruins of what appears to have -been a granary or store belonging to the Inca; here are many -excavations, in some of which there are marks on the stones of one -thousand, two thousand, &c.--this has induced some people to search for -treasure, but none has ever yet been found. At the distance of two -leagues from Caxamarca is a stone called _inga rirpo_, resting stone of -the Inca; it is similar to the one described by M. Humboldt, which he -saw at the _Paramo de Asuay_, which is called inga _chungana_, Inca's -resting place. The inga rirpo, near to Caxamarca, is a large block of -freestone, eleven feet long, two feet eight inches high above the -ground, and thirteen inches thick; it has two grooves cut across it near -to the centre, four inches deep, and five inches wide; here are also the -remains of a circular enclosure surrounding it eight yards in diameter; -it stands on the _Camino del Inca_, the military road on which the Incas -travelled from Cusco to Quito. The site of this resting stone commands -a most beautiful prospect of the valley of Caxamarca. The tradition of -the indians is, that the Inca used to be brought here to enjoy the -prospect, and that the two grooves in the stone were made, that the -cross ledges of his throne on which he was carried might rest secure in -them. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - Province of Caxamarca....Manufactures, Mines....Village de Jesus - ....Hawking....Farm of Lagunilla....Inga Tambo....Village of San - Marcos....Feast....Wedding....Village of Ichocan....Mine of - Gualgayoc....Return to the Coast....Village of Chocope....Of San - Pedro....Of Las Lagemas....Of Monsefu....Town of Lambayeque.... - Inhabitants, Buildings, New Altar....Manufactures, Soap, Cordovans, - Cotton Goods, Sweetmeats....Fruits, Grain, Pulse....Vegetables.... - Market...._Algarroba_, Carob Tree....Village of Eten....Of Morrope - ...._Simarones_....Desert of Sechura....Town of Sechura....City of - Piura....Inhabitants, Buildings....Mules....Manufactures....Climate - ....Effect on Syphilis....Commerce....Port of Paita....Excellent - Situation for an Astronomical Observatory. - - -The province of Caxamarca is intersected by ramifications of the -Cordillera; and having several low valleys, it consequently contains the -various climates or temperatures, from extreme heat to intense cold: -thus all kinds of fruit and grain peculiar to different climates are -cultivated in this province: it abounds, also, in all kinds of cattle -and poultry; and many obrages, manufactories of cloth, baizes, blankets, -and tocuyos have been established here. - -The most extensive manufactories for woollen cloths are Polloc and -Sondor, belonging (1812) to Don Tomas Bueno; and that for blankets, at -Yana-cancha, belonging, at the same date, to Don Miguel Sarachaga. The -blankets are very tastefully embroidered by the Indians, with loose -yarn, before they undergo the operation of fulling, so that the colours -have the appearance of being stamped on them. - -Many silver and gold mines exist in this province; but since the -discovery of the rich ores of Gualgayoc, in the neighbouring province of -Chota, the mines of Caxamarca have been abandoned. On the shores of the -river called de las Crisnejas, which falls into the Maraņon, are several -washing places, _lavaderos_, of gold. On the north side of the province, -where it joins that of Jaen, some bark trees are found, the produce of -which is little inferior to the famous cinchona of Loxa. - -During my stay at Caxamarca I visited several of the towns and villages; -that called de Jesus, five leagues from the city, is an indian village, -pleasantly situated in a small valley bounded by high mountains, at the -foot of which on the north side runs the Caxamarca river; on the side of -this river several water mills have been erected for grinding wheat, an -abundance of which is cultivated in the neighbourhood. While at this -place I several times visited my friend Don Tomas Arce, for the purpose -of accompanying him to take partridges with falcons; with two of these -birds and a springer we have often returned, after a few hours' sport, -with five or six brace of partridges of the large red legged kind, but -of a very delicate flavour. We frequently set out in the evening and -slept at some farm house on the hills, and in the morning took each of -us a falcon on our hard gloves and rode to the stubble fields; when the -dog sprang the game, we threw up our falcons, and followed them to the -place where they fell with their prey in their talons; this we could -easily discover by the sound of the bells fastened to the legs of the -falcon. We generally gave to our birds the brains of the partridges -which they had killed, then took them on our arms, and mounted to search -for more game. As the country abounds in _venados_, deer, Don Tomas had -trained a falcon to pursue them; he stuffed the skin of one of these -animals, in the eye pits of which he accustomed the bird to search for -its food; he sometimes placed the stuffed skin on the shoulders of a -boy, who ran away with it, when the falcon was allowed to follow him in -quest of its food. In this easy manner the falcon was trained to catch -deer, and it afforded us a great deal of amusement by flying after the -animal and perching on its head; this gave us time to come up and secure -the brute with a laso, or to kill it. - -I had been convinced, before I visited this province, that the character -of the South American indians was far different from what it had been -reported to be by all the Spanish writers, excepting the virtuous Las -Casas: otherwise, I should have been astonished at what I saw at this -village, where the indians have had but little intercourse with the -Spaniards, compared with those of whom Ulloa and Condamine so -contemptuously speak. Many festivals are observed at this village by the -indians; and although the Spanish language is little used, and the -Quichua alone is spoken, two, three, or more Spanish plays are performed -by them at each festival, amounting to, at least, twenty in each year. -This fondness for theatrical performances, which the indians evince--the -difficulty they labour under to learn their parts, in a language not -their own--beside the expences incidental to the representations, must -certainly prove that the aspersions of historians are unmerited. - -Near to this village is a farm, called la Lagunilla, on which are the -remains of an indian town, most curiously built; many of the houses are -yet entire; they are all built of stone, and surround a small rock or -mountain, which is situated in a valley: the bottom tier or range of -rooms have walls of an amazing thickness, in which I have measured -stones twelve feet long and seven feet high, forming the whole side of a -room, with one or more large stones laid across, which serve as a roof. -Above these houses another tier was built in the same manner, on the -back of which are the entrances or doorways, and a second row had their -backs to the mountain. The roofs of the second tier in front had been -covered with stone, and probably formed a promenade; a second tier of -rooms thus rested on the roofs of the first tier, which were on a level -with the second front tier. In this manner one double tier of dwelling -rooms was built above another to the height of seven tiers. On the top -are many ruins, apparently of a palace or fortress. - -When I first visited this place, I imagined that the rooms were -excavations in the rock; but I was very soon convinced that the whole -had been built, and I was astonished at contemplating such immense -labour, the real purpose of which is now unknown. The rooms are seldom -more than about twelve feet square and seven feet high, with a high -door-way in front, narrower at the top than at the bottom; the stone -has been wrought for the fronts into irregular sized squares, which are -cemented together. Some of the thick walls are formed of two casings of -stone, and the interstice is filled up with small stones and pebbles, -held together with well tempered reddish clay, which at present forms so -solid a mass, that it is almost equal to stone. The cement used to hold -the stones together, was, doubtless, tempered clay; but so little was -used, that some have imagined that the stones were merely placed one -upon another; in this surmise, however, they were evidently mistaken. - -The whole of this building would have contained at least five thousand -families; but we are not certain that it was ever applied to that -purpose. Some traditions call it one of the palaces, or houses of -reception, for the Incas when they travelled; but this is by no means -probable, for it does not stand within a league of the great road of the -Incas, and being only five leagues from Caxamarca, it is not likely that -such an edifice would have been built for such a purpose. Others state, -that it was the general granary for this part of the country in the time -of the Incas; but this is also subject to the same objections; for, as I -have already mentioned, the remains of one exist on the farm belonging -to Doņa Mercedes Arce, near to Caxamarca; and the ruins of all those -granaries which I have seen at different places are a kind of cisterns, -walled round either with adobes or rough hewn stones. It appears to me -as far more probable, that this was the residence of the Chimu of -Chicama, when he resided in the interior of his territory, before it -became subject to the Inca Pachacutec. The top of the mountain appears -to have been covered with buildings of a superior kind to the rest; for -some of the foundations may be traced, enclosing rooms and courts more -extensive than are to be found in any other part of this mass of -buildings. There are four principal roads leading from the bottom to the -top, corresponding with the four cardinal points; and from each of these -roads or streets the inhabitants could walk on the tops of their houses -to the next, and probably round the whole by bridges laid across the -intersecting roads; so that seven promenades were thus formed, besides -the six circular streets. The proprietor of this estate, Don Tomas -Bueno, fancied that it was the remains of an ancient temple, and -supposed that a great treasure was somewhere hidden; but I never could -persuade him to cut an adit through it in search of the huaca. Here are -no remains of delicate sculpture, although a few arabesques may be seen -on some of the stones; nor is there any appearance of elegant -architecture, for which the ancient Greeks and Romans were so famous. -However, the immense ingenuity of the builders in conveying and placing -such huge masses of stone in such a situation, as well as the extracting -them from the quarries without machinery, and shaping them without iron -tools, must astound the contemplating beholder of these ruins, and make -him blush at hearing the builders called barbarians. Such epithets are -equally applicable to the Egyptians, on viewing their rude ancient -monuments; but we feel conscious that these people were in possession of -the arts and sciences when our forefathers in Europe were in a state of -barbarity; we consider, too, that from their plantations the first -scions were brought to Greece and Italy, and that these exotics were -afterwards transplanted into our own country. - -Near to these ruins is a small lake, _laguna_, from which the estate -derives its name; it is of an oval figure, the transverse axis being -nine hundred yards, and the conjugate six hundred and fifty. One side of -the lake rests on the foot of the mountains, which separate the farm -from the valley of Caxamarca, on the opposite side of which mountains -the river runs. An excavation or tunnel is cut through one of these -mountains, through which the water of the lake is discharged into the -river, when it rises nearly to a level with the surrounding land, and -thus a flooding of it is prevented. This lake was probably the quarry -whence the stone was taken for the building just described, and the -passage was probably opened at the same time by the indians, to prevent -the water from deluging the low lands, which bespeaks that attention to -economy so evident in the establishments of the ancient Peruvians. - -The farm house here, with all the stables and other buildings, are of -stone, brought from the _Tambo del Inca_, as the ruins are called: all -the yards are paved with the same, and they have a very neat and clean -appearance; however, I could not help wishing that the stones had -remained undisturbed in their former interesting situation; but many -have also been carried, for the same purposes, to different places. - -I visited the town of San Marcos, eight leagues from Caxamarca; it is -most delightfully situated in a very fruitful valley, enjoying all the -benefits of a tropical climate, and affording a rich variety of fruits: -the apples, peaches, and other European fruits, are found in great -perfection, as well as oranges, lemons, paltas, bananas, plantains, &c. -My visit to this town happened at the time of the annual festival; on -this account I was entertained with bull fights, indian dancers, and the -representation of theatrical pieces; the town was full of visitors from -the neighbouring country, and every countenance bore a smile of -satisfaction, while mirth and pleasure appeared to reign in every -breast. - -I was present in the parish church, which is a large neat brick and -stone building, very much ornamented within, at the celebration of the -wedding of a son and daughter of two Caciques, the boy being eleven -years old, and the girl thirteen. When they left the church, after the -ceremony was over, they ran in different directions, the boy to play -with his comrades, and the girl to join hers, as if they had merely been -at church as spectators, and not the parties concerned. I afterwards -asked the cura how it happened, that two such thoughtless children -should be married? He answered me, "_por rason de estado_," giving me to -understand, that as they were both of noble origin, their parents had -married them at that age to prevent them marrying with their inferiors. -The principal benefit derived from preserving the nobility of the -families is, their children being admissible into the colleges, and to -the three learned bodies, divinity, law, and physic. - -Two leagues from San Marcos stands the village of Ichocan, on the top of -an eminence, consequently its climate is very cold; the cura here was an -indian, and from his corpulency might be known, according to an adage in -Peru, that he was a Cacique; for when a person is very jolly, it is -generally said, that he is as fat as a Cacique, _tan gordo como un -Cacique_. This cura was for some time the vicar of the province, and was -looked upon as an oracle in Latinity and Theology. He was a very -cheerful companion, possessed an extensive library of Latin, Greek, -English, and French books, which he had studied; and was more acquainted -with general science than any other person I met with in this part of -Peru. - -The produce of the parish of Ichocan is confined almost entirely to -wheat, but it is considered the best, and fetches the highest price of -any in the whole district; it sells on an average for from three to -three and a half dollars the _fanega_, which is nearly three bushels. I -afterwards visited several other villages; but a description of them -would only be tedious and uninteresting. The natives of this province -are noted for industry and hospitality; the population of indians at the -time of the conquest was very extensive, forming upwards of five hundred -settlements; but they are now reduced to forty-six. - -The capital of the province is so situated, that it is likely to become -an important commercial town; it is now the great market for this -province, as well as for those of Chota, Chachapoyas, and Guallubamba. -Eighteen leagues from Caxamarca is the celebrated silver mine called -Gualgayoc, which, from the slovenly manner in which it has been wrought, -produces but little good ore at present (1812); although ten years ago -it was considered superior to the celebrated mine at Pasco: quantities -of ore were extracted from the two shafts called _la mina del rey_, and -_la del purgatorio_, which yielded a hundred and forty marks per caxon -of fifty quintals. - -I left Caxamarca and returned to Truxillo, and thence proceeded along -the coast to the northward. My first stage of eleven leagues was to -Chocope, a neat village containing about forty houses, chiefly inhabited -by white families; it stands on a part of the valley of Chicama. In the -year 1746 this village was totally ruined by rain, which continued for -thirty-four successive nights. The sky was clear during the day from -sunrise to sunset, at which time it began to rain; and as such a -phenomenon was totally unexpected, and the houses constructed of -materials unable to resist it, the whole of the village was destroyed. -In 1748 it rained in the same manner for eleven nights; but since that -period there has been no repetition of so destructive an occurrence, nor -is there any record of a similar one before that time on this or any -other part of the Peruvian coast, from 18° to 4° of latitude. It is also -extraordinary, that this rain did not extend six leagues either to the -north or to the south. - -My next stage of thirteen leagues brought me to San Pedro, after passing -a small village called Payjan. San Pedro is composed of about a hundred -and fifty houses, of _baxareque_, canes cased with clay: it is a parish -belonging to the order of Augustin friars, who have a small convent -here. The population is composed principally of indians, whose chief -occupation is the cultivation of the lands in the valley of the same -name, which is watered by the river Pacasmayo, and produces most -abundant crops of wheat; it was formerly considered to be the granary of -Lima; but after the earthquake in 1687 the crops entirely failed for -almost twenty years; since which period the land has again resumed its -usual fertility. This circumstance has been already mentioned when -speaking of Lima and la Barranca. At this time the Peruvians began to -send their vessels to Chile for wheat, which commerce has been -constantly kept up ever since, and to which Chile is indebted for many -comforts among the lower classes, and for many rich capitals among the -higher. The indians of San Pedro are particularly cleanly in their -persons and houses; but I had been told that their chicha was mascada, -chewed; and although the natives assured me that they had of both kinds, -I was fearful of being deceived--I did not wish to have a second-hand or -rather a second-mouthed beverage, so I drank water. The indians appeared -here to be perfectly comfortable and happy; and as their allotments of -land produced them a reasonable competency, they seemed to be a people -almost independent of their conquerors. - -The next stage brought me to las Lagunas, a distance of nine leagues, -having forded on the road the river Xequetepeque, about half a league -below the village of the same name. Las Lagunas, the lakes, is a low -swampy country, formed by the overflowings of the river Saņa; the small -lakes which are formed are filled with wild ducks, some of which are of -a most beautiful plumage, and very delicate eating. Here are only a few -huts, partly for the accommodation of travellers, and partly the -residence of fishermen, who catch large quantities of very fine lisas, -and dry them for sale; these are so very delicate when grilled, that -travellers look forward to their arrival at Lagunas to eat them. Five -leagues from this place is the village of Monsefu, which is a remarkably -handsome place; the houses are very neatly built, with wide corridors in -front, and whitewashed; several small streams of water cross the -principal street; these are employed in irrigating the gardens and the -orchards, which are attached to almost all the houses, and which produce -most excellent grapes, quinces, pomegranates and other fruits, both -European and tropical, particularly _cambures_, which are very small -bananas, and are equal in flavour to the most delicate ripe pears. After -dining here on _gualdrapas_, goat's flesh, taken from the upper part of -the neck, slightly salted and dried, and which is very similar to -venison, we proceeded to Lambayeque, travelling through a wood of -_algarrobas_, carob trees, for more than three leagues. - -Lambayeque is the capital of the province, and the residence of the -Subdelegado; it has always attracted the attention of travellers, as -being the most populous and the greatest trading town between Lima and -Guayaquil. It is situated about two leagues from the sea, and four from -its sea-port, called Pacasmayo, where the river of this name enters the -Pacific, partly by which river and partly by the river Lambayeque the -town and the surrounding country are watered. - -The town of Lambayeque contains upwards of eight thousand inhabitants, -Spanish, creoles, indians, negroes, and mixed breeds, or castes. Some of -the houses are large and commodious; the parish church is of stone; it -is a handsome edifice, and contains many costly ornaments. Attached to -it are four chapels of ease, called _ramadas_; these are so many -parishes of indians, each having a cura, independent of the cura of the -_matris_, or parish church, of the white inhabitants. I was at this town -in 1811, when the first mass was celebrated at the new altar, built at -the expence of Dr. Delgado, and dedicated to _Nuestra Seņora del -Carmen_; at this time a most sumptuous feast was held during a whole -week, attended with bull fights, mains of cocks, and horse racing during -the day; with balls, _tertulias_, chit-chat parties, and gambling, at -night; and the whole of the inhabitants seemed entirely devoted to mirth -and pleasure. - -The principal manufactures here are soap, cordovans of goats' skins, -cotton cloths, and sweetmeats. From the extensive flocks of goats which -are fed in the algarroba wood which surrounds this town, the tallow is -procured for the soap manufactories, and the alkali is obtained from the -_lico_, salsola, which is found in abundance in this province, as well -as in that of Saņa, and the valley of Chicama. The soap is very hard, -and is cut into cakes or small bars, four of which, and sometimes six, -only weigh a pound; the average price is from twenty to twenty-five -dollars the quintal. Its quality is far inferior to that of English -soap, owing particularly to its hardness, and the quantities of -impurities which it contains; notwithstanding which, it is preferred to -any other soap--such is the obstinacy implanted by the habit of using -it. - -The skins of the goats are tanned with the bark of the huarango, and -sometimes with that of the algarroba, and the cordovans are of an -excellent quality. These articles have a very extensive sale, which -extends to the whole coast of Peru and many of the provinces in the -interior, as well as to the province of Guayaquil, and to different -parts of the kingdom of Quito. - -Quantities of tocuyo, counterpanes, table cloths, napkins and other -articles of cotton, some of which are very fine, are manufactured here, -as well as cotton canvass, or sail cloth; notwithstanding the extent of -these works, all the yarn is spun with the distaff and spindle, so that -all the females of the lower classes find constant employment. The -tocuyos made here are not considered so good, and consequently are not -in such demand as those of Conchucos, but an extensive trade is carried -on in the other articles. Here is an extensive mill for cleaning the -cotton from the seeds, similar to that at Casma, and some large -remittances of cotton have been made from this place to Europe. - -The manufacture of sweetmeats consists chiefly of marmalade and jelly, -made from quinces, guavas, and limes. It is packed in chip boxes, each -holding about two pounds, which sell at half a dollar each; they are -sent to Lima, Guayaquil, and other places along the coast. Hats of palm -and _junco_, fine rushes, are made here, and carried to the same markets -as the other manufactures. - -Oranges, limes, lemons, grapes, guavas, pacays, melons, paltas, -huanabanas, chirimoyas, anonas, plantains, bananas, pomegranates, -granadialls, tumbos, quinces, pine-apples, and many other fruits grow -here and in the neighbourhood in great abundance, and they are of an -excellent quality; apples, pears, and other European fruits do not -thrive. Wheat, maize, beans, lentils, garbansos, and other pulse, also -yucas, batatas or sweet potatoes, yams, and other esculents, as well as -potatoes and all kinds of culinary vegetables, arrive at great -perfection; hence the market is abundantly supplied with them, as well -as with good beef, fish and poultry; mutton is scarce and not very good, -but the young kid is superior to lamb. - -The _algarroba_, carob tree, grows in the vicinity of Lambayeque in -great abundance, and is of such utility, that a law exists to prevent -the owners from cutting them down: they grow to the size of our largest -oaks; the wood is very hard, the leaf small, and the branches bear an -abundance of clusters of pods, about four inches long and three-quarters -of an inch broad, containing five or six black seeds, like small beans. -When ripe the pod is of a brown colour, and has a sweet taste; the -cattle are very fond of it, and become very fat with eating it; the -mules that feed on the carob pods, after a journey to Lima, a hundred -and forty leagues, return apparently fat; but the greatest profit -derived from this valuable tree is from the number of goats which are -annually fed on the pods. These animals reach the lower branches of the -trees themselves, and they are afterwards assisted in procuring their -food by the goatherds, who climb the trees, and beat down the leaves and -pods with long canes. At certain times of the year, when the pods become -scarce, the goats will follow their goatherds any where, without the -need of a driver, as if conscious that their existence depended on the -assistance of their keepers. Some of the goats will become so plump, -that it is not uncommon for one goat to yield a quintal, one hundred -pounds weight, of tallow and fat; for the whole of the fat is separated -from the flesh, this latter being considered of very little value, -excepting that part which covers the bones of the neck, which is eaten -as a delicacy, and is really equal to venison. A considerable share of -superstition belongs to the goatherds, who are indians. They believe -that some men have the power, by witchcraft, to convey the fat of one -flock of goats to another, if care be not taken to prevent them from so -doing; for the prevention of this mischief they have different amulets, -which they tie round the necks or horns of the old goats, especially -those which are called the Captains of the flocks. These charms consist -of shells, beans, and a kind of nutmeg brought from the province of Jaen -de Bracamoros. I was several times entertained by the tales told by the -indians; they would assert, that a flock of fat goats had been placed -under the care of an unskilful goatherd, and that in one night a wizard, -_hichisero_, had deprived them of all their fat, and conveyed it to -another flock, to the astonishment, of particularly one party, who in -the morning found his fat flock reduced to skin and bone, bleating their -lamentations for the loss which they had sustained. - -From the pods of the algarroba the indians make chicha, by merely -infusing them in water, straining it, and allowing it to ferment: at the -expiration of three or four days it is very palatable, and if proper -attention were paid to it, I believe that a very delicate wine would be -procured. Small cakes called _arepas_ are sometimes made by the indians -from the pods reduced to powder; they are certainly not unpalatable, -though very coarse. - -Five leagues from Lambeyeque is a village called Chiclayo, which is the -neatest and most social place along the whole coast; it contains several -respectable inhabitants, its situation in the valley of Lambayeque is -delightful; the productions and the market are good. It has a small -convent of Franciscans, to which order the curacy belongs. - -The trade of Lambayeque, owing to its productions and the industry of -the inhabitants, is very extensive; the neighbouring provinces depend on -its manufactories, and it will undoubtedly become the great mart for the -inland provinces for European goods. Some of the shops and stores are -well stocked with European manufactures, of which the sale is very -extensive; and as its commerce extends to countries of such different -climates, all kinds of useful foreign articles are in considerable -demand. The town of Eten stands on a sandy plain, and is entirely -inhabited by indians; these are the only people who speak the Chimu -dialect which is the original language of the coast of Peru, and so -different from the Quichua, that I could not understand a single word, -nor trace any analogy between them, and beyond the limits of their town -their language is unintelligible. It may very reasonably be expected -that these people possess the true character of the indians; if they do, -it is a very worthy one; they are temperate, industrious and kind; they -do not allow any person except indians to reside among them, and a -traveller is only suffered to remain three days in the town; but the -Alcaldes always take care that he be provided with whatever he may -require. Cotton cloths to a large extent are manufactured here, and the -natives wear nothing that is not made by their own hands; hence many of -them are possessed of considerable wealth, for the sale of their own -goods is very extensive. They differ in their dress from the generality -of the indians; the men wear white jackets and breeches, these having a -slip of red cloth at the knees, in which the button holes are wrought; -the females wear a kind of long black or blue tunic, without sleeves, -girt round the waist; both sexes wear straw hats, and very seldom put on -shoes. - -When I left Lambayeque I was obliged to prepare myself with a guide, and -a spare mule, for water and provisions, as well for ourselves as for the -animals, because we had now to traverse the desert of Sechura, the -largest on the Peruvian coast. We left Lambayeque, and halted the first -night at a small village called Morope, four leagues distant from that -place. The road between these towns is often frequented by robbers, who -are generally runaway slaves, _simarones_, who lurk among the low -brushwood on the road sides, and attack the passengers; they seldom -molest a person if they observe that he is armed, but they plunder the -indians and mountaineers, _serranos_, of their money and goods, and -murders are more frequently committed here than in any part of Peru. A -short time before I passed this way, the police officers and the militia -had apprehended five of these simarones; to effect this they set the -brushwood on fire in several places, and in a short time the whole was -in flames, so that the robbers were actually burnt out of their hiding -places. - -Morope contains about ninety houses or huts, ranchos, built of cane -covered with clay, and a thousand inhabitants, all indians. The parish -church is a large neat building, extremely clean, and tastefully -ornamented within. We here filled our calabashes with water, and my -indian guide purchased some maize for the mules; as the chicha here is -mascada, I preferred putting water into my two small calabashes, which I -carried in my saddle bags, _alforjas_. - -We left Morope at four o'clock in the afternoon, and arrived before it -was dark at the _Medanos_; these are hills of sand in the form of a -crescent, the convex side being always opposed to the wind, for as it -shifts, the sand is blown up the one side and falls down on the other; -thus these hills are continually changing their size and situation, -flitting from one place to another, to the imminent danger of a -traveller, should his guide be ignorant of the road, for all traces -disappear, by the sand continually drifting along with the wind. If a -guide have any reason to suspect that he is out of the track, he will -alight, take up a handful of the sand and smell to it, because the dung -and urine of the mules that traverse the desert communicate an odour to -the sand along the road, which in other parts it does not possess. About -midnight we met a troop of laden mules, and halted to converse with the -muleteers; we drank some of their chicha, and I invited them to partake -of ours; I had brought some brandy, _aguardiente_, and had no chicha, -but they did not appear to relish it less than they would have done -their countrymen's liquor, for they emptied my bottle. I drank some of -theirs, and ate some sweet cakes, which they called _alfajor_; they were -very good. At parting I told them I was glad I had met them, because it -was a proof that we were not bewildered: that could not happen, said my -guide, for the Cross is our director, pointing to the constellation -behind us in the heavens; and it is not midnight yet, said he, for the -cross leans to yesterday; the two stars at the top and the foot of this -beautiful constellation were not erect in the south. - -After travelling about two leagues more, we met a traveller with his -guide, who saluted us with _buen viage_, a good journey to you; morning -is coming, the cross bends to the sea, and I must arrive early at -Morope. This was an excuse for not halting; and we continued our route. -When the first rays of morning began to appear, the air became suddenly -chill, and I put on my poncho; my guide did the same, and said to me, -"the light drives the frosty air from the mountains, _serros_, before -it; it is always cold in the morning in the desert, but this refreshes -us before the sun comes to burn us in the rest of our journey." Whether -this chilly sensation felt at sunrise be merely the result of the -absence of the sun, for it is then the longest period since it set; or -whether it be partly apprehension at beholding the sun again without -feeling the heat which it afterwards communicates, I cannot determine; -but I have universally experienced the effect in tropical climates. -During the whole of this day, we saw nothing save sand and sky; and -although I was accustomed to travel on the coasts of this country, I now -experienced an indescribable dulness and languor; at length, before -night closed, the two steeples of the church at Sechura became visible; -but they had more the appearance of a vessel at sea than of church -steeples. At nine o'clock on the following morning we arrived at the -town of Sechura; I went to the house of the alcalde, and immediately -laid myself down and slept very soundly, being excessively fatigued by a -journey of forty leagues over the most dreary country I had ever -witnessed. - -The town of Sechura contains about two hundred and fifty houses, and two -thousand inhabitants, all of whom are indians, equally industrious and -temperate as those of Eten; the men are principally muleteers and -fishermen, the women employ themselves in spinning and weaving cotton. -The church in this town is a surprising edifice; it has two very high -steeples, and a handsome cupola built of brick; it is roofed with cane, -which is covered with clay, and the whole evinces enormous labour, both -in procuring the materials of which it is built, as well as in the -erection of the edifice; it is, indeed, one of those monuments of -industry and labour which must ever attract the attention of travellers. -This is the first town in the jurisdiction of Piura, and all passengers -must present to the alcalde their passports, without which they cannot -obtain either mules or a guide. - -I left Sechura immediately after I awoke, and had taken some -refreshment, feeling anxious to arrive at Piura, it being the first town -founded by the Spaniards in South America. After travelling over ten -leagues, all of which is a sandy plain, I arrived at Piura, and -immediately went to the house of a gentleman for whom I had letters; and -although it was near midnight I received a hearty welcome from all the -family, who left their beds to see the stranger. - -Although Piura is always accounted the first Spanish settlement in South -America, it is not exactly the same place which Pizarro founded in 1531; -that town stood on the plain of Targasola, at a short distance from the -site of the present city, and from whence it was removed on account of -the insalubrity of the climate. The present city, which is the capital -of the province, was founded by Don Francisco Pizarro, who also built -here the first Christian church in Peru. It contains at present a parish -church, a convent of San Francisco and one of La Merced, and a hospital -under the management of the Bethlemite Friars. The houses are built -either of canes covered with clay, or of sun-dried bricks; and very few -have an upper story. The streets are not paved, and consequently, like -those of Truxillo, they are almost ankle deep in sand and dirt. The -enormous quantity of bugs in the houses is quite a nuisance. The -inhabitants of Piura amount to about nine thousand; they are Spaniards, -white creoles, indians, negroes, and mixed breeds. - -Piura is noted for the finest breed of mules in Peru; many are taken to -Truxillo, Lima and other places, both on the coast and in the interior, -for sale; some of them fetch the amazing high price of two hundred and -fifty dollars each. The breed of goats is also very extensive in this -district; in the capital large quantities of soap and leather, -_cordovanes_, are prepared and carried for sale to Guayaquil, Quito, -Cuenca, Panama, and Lima. Some cotton goods are manufactured here, but -not to the same extent as at Lambayeque. The principal occupation of the -men is to attend to their mules, for the services of which there is -great demand, because all the goods landed at Piura are carried by mules -to Lima, a distance of three hundred and eighty leagues, besides which -their own productions are thus transported to that and other places. The -manufacture of cordage from the _maguey_ employs many persons in the -interior of the province, and considerable quantities of this cordage -is consumed by the merchants in Peru in cording bales of merchandize and -other similar purposes; but it has never yet been applied to naval -equipments, except in the canoes and balsas. - -As part of this province is mountainous, it contains a variety of -climates; but that of the capital is hot and dry to such a degree, that -if a sheet of paper be placed on the ground in the evening, it may be -taken up at any hour of the night or morning, and written on without any -inconvenience, for it will be found perfectly dry. Many persons -afflicted with syphilis resort to Piura for the purpose of being cured, -which is effected by merely residing here, without the aid of any -medicine. It is believed that the water which is usually drunk -contributes more to the re-establishment of their health than the -climate; for, in its course, it runs over very extensive beds of -sarsaparilla, and the fallen trees of _palo santo_, the guiaco trees; -and as the bed of the river is completely dry during the summer months, -the inhabitants are obliged to dig wells in the bed of the river, at -which time the water being more strongly impregnated with the virtues of -these two vegetables, it is considered more efficacious in removing that -disease. Some patients are buried to the neck in the sand for one or -two hours, and drink copiously of the water, by which means a most -profuse perspiration is produced, and their cure is very much -facilitated. The poor people here make use of pieces of dry palo santo -as a substitute for candles; they merely light the end of the stick, and -a flame of a reddish colour is produced, which continues to burn till -the whole stick is consumed, communicating an agreeable scent to the -house. - -Piura is not well situated for mercantile business; it commands none of -the interior provinces, and its own population can never render it a -place of importance. Fourteen leagues from Piura is the sea-port of -Paita, and to the goods landed here from Panama, destined to be carried -to different parts of Peru, the inhabitants of Piura owe their principal -occupation. - -Paita is a very commodious and well frequented port, in latitude 5° 5ī -S.; the anchorage is good, and the landing is excellent. The town of -Paita was destroyed in 1741 by Anson; in the church of the Merced the -friars shew an image of the Virgin Mary, which had its throat cut by one -of the heretics who accompanied Anson, the blood yet remaining on her -neck, and the wound unhealed. The present town is composed of about two -hundred houses; the inhabitants are principally indians, many of them -are employed in a seafaring life, and they are considered to be good -sailors. The country around Paita is a complete barren sandy desert, not -a drop of water nor a green leaf is any where to be seen, and the heat -is remarkably oppressive. The water used here is brought from the river -Colan, four leagues to the northward of Paita, in large calabashes, or -earthen jars, on balsas or rafts, and it is consequently sold at a very -high price to the ships in need of it, as well as to the inhabitants. -Here is a Custom House, with the necessary revenue officers and a -Governor. On the south side of the bay is a small fort, with four long -brass cannons of eighteen pound calibre. - -Owing to the constant clearness of the sky at Paita, perhaps no place in -the world is better suited for an astronomical observatory; the stars -are always visible at night, owing to the total absence of clouds; -besides which the atmosphere is at all times of nearly the same density; -no mists, dews or fogs, ever pervade it; it is surrounded by the Pacific -Ocean on one side, and extensive sandy plains on the other; and, owing -to the brilliancy with which the celestial bodies shine here, it is -become proverbial to say, "as bright as the moon at Paita." - -I embarked at Paita in a small brig belonging to an indian, who was the -captain, and after a tedious coasting voyage of fifty-one days arrived -at Callao. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - Leave Lima for Guayaquil...._Amortajado_....Puná....Arrival of the - Spaniards, and Conquest of....Village of....Inhabitant....Passage - up the River Guayaquil...._Punta de Arena_....Guayaquil.... - Foundation and Description of....Buildings....Inhabitants.... - Amusements....Market....Fruit....Climate....Insects and Reptiles - ....Dock Yard....Project of Sawing Mills....Balsa, Description of - ....Navigation of....Canoes....Merchants of Guayaquil. - - -On my arrival at Lima, his Excellency the Count Ruis de Castilla -solicited me as an attendant to accompany him to Quito, the King having -appointed him the President, Captain-general, &c. I immediately embraced -the proposals, and in June, 1808, we embarked at Callao for Guayaquil, -where his Excellency being detained by an indisposition, I enjoyed a -month's leisure to visit different parts of the province. - -At the entrance of the river Guayaquil is an extraordinary rock, called -_el amortajado_, the shrouded corpse, from the resemblance which it -bears to a body shrouded in the Franciscan habit; the head, the body, -the arms folded on the breast, and the rising of the feet, as the whole -seems to lie on its back, are very correctly seen at the distance of -from two to five miles. - -Having arrived at the island of the Puná, we anchored for the purpose of -waiting for the next tide, having had a pilot, _practico_, to bring us -hither. The island stretches S.W. and N.E. about eight leagues, and is -about four leagues broad in its widest part. In 1530 Don Francisco -Pizarro landed here, at which time it was governed by a chief or -Cacique; Pizarro was tempted to visit this island by the accounts he had -received from the Indians at Tumpis, who were at war with those of the -Puná, that these latter were in possession of immense quantities of -gold. On the arrival of Pizarro, the natives opposed his landing; but -having effected it, a sharp engagement ensued, in which a considerable -number of Indians were slain; three Spanish soldiers also were killed, -and several more were wounded, among whom was Don Hernando Pizarro. At -the time of the first landing of the Spaniards on this island, in 1530, -it was inhabited by upwards of twenty thousand Indians; but from the -persecution which they suffered for having bravely opposed their -invaders--when a census was taken in 1734, only ninety-six remained; and -since that period those few have all retired to Machala. - -Near to the anchorage is a small village, inhabited chiefly by mulattos; -there is a Spanish church, and a house, called _del rey_, which, when -vessels unload, serves as a custom-house. On the arrival of a person who -is unacquainted with the beauties of a tropical climate, or who has been -accustomed to the dreary scenery of the coast of Peru, he is almost -enchanted with the luxuriant prospect presented to his view. The whole -of the surrounding country is covered with woods, with here and there a -few small houses, starting, as it were, from the green foliage on the -margin of the river, which has here the appearance of an extensive lake. -The houses are built of canes, and have an upper story, but are without -a ground floor. They are constructed by placing four or more logs of -timber in the ground, and at the height of ten feet a floor of large -split canes is laid, supported by a frame-work of mangroves; a roof of -palm or other leaves is then formed, which descends to within five feet -of the ground-floor; a rude varanda of canes encloses the whole -building, which, in the larger houses, is divided by canes into two or -three apartments; but in the smaller houses they have only one room. -The ascent is by a ladder, sometimes merely the trunk of a tree with -steps cut in it. The houses in this village rise gradually behind each -other, without any order or regularity, interspersed with some large and -beautiful tamarind trees, equal in size to our largest oaks: beneath -these the pompous banana waves its huge leaves, and droops with the -weight of its golden fruit; while above towers the majestic cocoa palm, -laden with its numerous branches of nuts, hanging beneath a cupola of -feather-like foliage. - -The inhabitants of Puná leave their houses during part of the year, and -retire to other places, where they cultivate maize, pumpkins, tobacco, -&c.; after which they return to sell such produce as they are possessed -of, to the merchants who come to purchase it. They also employ -themselves in cutting mangroves, which are sent to Lima and other parts -of Peru, and in fishing. Owing to a want of water in the island, for -irrigation, there being no rivers, and from the scarcity of rain during -the last ten years, the plantations of cocoa have failed; and, although -formerly upwards of twelve hundred quintals were collected here -annually, not one, at present, is harvested. Owing to the same cause, -all cultivation has ceased on the island, and the inhabitants are -obliged to dig wells to supply themselves with good water in summer; -for, although there is a small spring near to the village, for want of -proper attention the water is undrinkable. It is only used for washing, -which operation is performed on the margin; and by throwing near to it -the soapy water, the spring is rendered useless, except for the purpose -to which it is applied. - -After waiting at the Puná for the following tide, we weighed, and stood -up the river: we sometimes passed so near to the mangroves which grow on -the different islands, and even in the water (the trees being supported -by their almost innumerable roots, which cross each other in all -directions), that it appeared as if the branches would become entangled -with the ropes of the ship. On the roots, as well as on the branches of -the mangroves, many beautiful white storks were perched, which -contributed very much to heighten the novelty and beauty of the scene. -Navigation in its primitive state was here presented to us on our -passage:--the unwieldy and creeping balsa lagged behind us, and the next -abrupt turn in the channel hid it from our view, the high trees, of -some small island usurping its place in the prospect; while the light -canoe skimmed along on the surface of the water, as if in mockery of our -ship, which might justly boast its superiority over the balsa. - -About seven leagues from the Puná there is a small battery, or rather a -breast-work, formed of the trunks of the _palo de balsa_ and the -_ceibo_, mounting six guns. The projection of a small promontory, called -sandy point, _punta de arena_, commands the channel for about two miles, -and this point of defence might easily be made the protecting place of -the city, even against large vessels; while boats and balsas might go up -to the city by another channel of the river, formed by an island -opposite to punta de arena, without any molestation from this battery. -It was late in the evening when we came to an anchor off the city, and I -never beheld a more brilliant view than the one before us. The long -range of houses by the river side presented a double row of lights, one -from the shops below, and another from the upper stories, where the -inhabitants reside: in a few places three rows appeared, some of the -houses having a low story between the shops and the dwelling rooms. At -the extremity of this line of lights the houses in the old city, _cuidad -vieja_, rose one above another, while the many balsas at anchor, or -passing along the river, with fires on board, formed altogether a very -dazzling but pleasing prospect. - -The first town, called Guayaquil, was founded in 1533 in the bay of -Charapotó, by Don Francisco Pizarro; and by the date of the title -granted by Charles V. it was the second town founded in Peru; however -the first was entirely destroyed by the Indians. In 1537, Francisco de -Orrellana built another town on the west side of the river, which was -afterwards removed to the site where cuidad vieja now stands; and, -lastly, in 1793, to its present situation. Its name is taken from that -of its original chief or Cacique, Guayas. The city is divided into two -distinct wards, by a wooden bridge eight hundred yards long; this bridge -crosses several estuaries, and some low ground that is flooded by the -river. The new town, or that part called Guayaquil, extends half a -league along the side of the river, on a plain, having the dock yard at -the southern extremity on the same level; and cuidad vieja, or the old -city, at the northern extremity; one part of which is built on the -acclivity of the hill, and the other on the top of it, where the convent -of Santo Domingo now stands. The principal street, called the Malecon, -runs along the side of the river; about the centre of it stands the -custom-house; at the back of this street another runs the whole length -of the city, which, with the intersecting streets, forms the chief part -of Guayaquil. - -This city is the capital of the province, and the residence of the -Governor; it has a municipal authority invested in two alcaldes, and -other officers; the custom-house, _aduana_, has an accomptant, -treasurer, and inferior officers. The military department is subject to -the Viceroy of Peru; the civil to the Audience of Quito, and the -ecclesiastical to the bishop of Cuenca. - -Here are two parish churches, one in the new town, the other in the old; -both dedicated to Santiago, the patron of the city; also a convent of -Franciscans, one of Augstinians, and one of Dominicans; the hospital is -under the care of the order of San Juan de Dios. The matris as well as -the other churches are built principally of wood, and have tiled roofs. -A custom prevails at the churches here on the days of particular -festivals, which I never observed in any other part of the colonies. Men -go up the belfries or steeples, with drums and trumpets, and accompany -the tune rung on the bells by striking them, as the Chinese do their -gongs, with hammers or stones, making a strange, but not altogether -disagreeable kind of music; it is certainly ridiculous, however, to hear -marches and dance tunes played in a church steeple, for the purpose of -calling the people to prayers. - -The greater part of the houses in the principal streets have an upper -story, where the inhabitants reside, the ground floor being occupied as -shops and warehouses. The upper stories have long balconies about four -or five feet wide, with canvass curtains, which are very useful, because -they form an agreeable shade against the scorching rays of the sun; and -when a little breeze springs up, one end of the roller is passed between -the ballustrades of the varanda, and the other end projects outward, so -that the breeze is thus caught, and a current of air is guided into the -apartments of the house, which at any time is very desirable; There are -no buildings in Guayaquil that particularly attract the attention of a -traveller, either by their size or beauty; but however the generality of -the houses are large, commodious, and have a very good appearance, -particularly those along the Malecon, which face the river; as they are -all built of wood, the risk of being burnt is very great. In the years -1692, 1707, and 1764 the city was nearly reduced to ashes; besides -which conflagrations it has suffered eleven other partial ones, which -destroyed many houses and much property. Notwithstanding the danger to -which the city is exposed, the dreadful examples which it has -experienced, and the easy means by which water may be procured in any -part of the town, for the prevention of general conflagrations, there is -not one engine for the extinction of fire, nor any regular body of -firemen. - -An indispensable part of the furniture of a house is the _hamaca_, -hammock; and I have frequently seen five or six in one room; they are -made of pita, agave thread, or a kind of straw, dyed of various colours; -they are so woven or matted, that they extend to a great width, and hold -two, three, or four persons. They are stretched across the rooms, and -along the sides and ends, and the inhabitants prefer them to any other -seat: indeed, they possess peculiar advantages, for, by being put in -motion, the current of air which is thus produced is refreshing; and the -motion prevents the possibility of the person being bitten by the -mosquitos, as the least draft or motion in the air obliges these -blood-suckers to seek for safety in some quiet corner. - -The population of Guayaquil amounts to about twenty thousand souls; the -inhabitants are composed of all the different classes which are found in -the various towns of South America, but there is an excess of mulattos. -A phenomenon presents itself here which greatly surprises all -foreigners; the complexion of some of the white natives is extremely -delicate, the lily and the rose are blended as enchantingly as on the -cheek of any European beauty, accompanied also with blue eyes and light -coloured hair; yet the climate is extremely hot, and the town is -surrounded with low swampy grounds. The ladies are not only remarkably -fair, but they have also very delicate regularly formed features; they -are tall genteel figures, have an elegant gait, walk well, and dance -gracefully; they are also very lively and witty in their conversation, -and on the whole the female society of Guayaquil exceeds that of any -other town in South America that I visited;--their private characters -being as free from levity as their public demeanour is from prudery. The -men are more enterprising in their commercial concerns, and the lower -classes are more industrious than the people generally are in the other -colonies; indeed every thing here bears the marks of exertion and -activity. - -The favourite amusements are bull fights, excursions on the water in -_balsas_, and dancing; of the latter all ranks appear passionately fond, -and in the evening the harp, the guitar, or the violin may be heard in -almost every street, and, contrary to what might be expected in a -country lying between the tropics, the reel, the waltz, and the country -dance are preferred to any other. - -The market of Guayaquil is but indifferently supplied with flesh meat, -although the horned cattle is well fed on the _savanas_ and -_gamalotales_. Before the beef comes to market it is deprived of all its -fat, and cut into shreds about an inch thick, called _tasajo_; the fat -is melted and sold as lard for culinary purposes, but this however might -be easily remedied if the inhabitants would come to a resolution not to -buy the beef in such a mangled state. Very fine ribs of beef, called -chalonas, are salted and dried in the province of Monte Christe, and -brought to this market; they are very fat, and of an excellent flavour. -The quantity of salt used in curing them being small, the meat is not -too salt to be roasted. Mutton is a very scarce commodity, and seldom to -be had. Veal and lamb are unknown. Pork is tolerably good, and in -abundance. The tame poultry is good, but generally dear; and although -the woods abound with game, and the rivers and creeks contain plenty of -water fowl, none of these are scarcely ever brought to market. The -supply of fish is tolerably abundant, but generally speaking it is not -good; the exceptions are the _lisa_, a kind of mullet, the _vieja_, old -wife, _ciego_, or blind fish, (about nine inches long, with only the -spinal bone) and a species of anchovies or sardinas. Oysters are very -plentiful, and the rock oysters though large are good, while those found -among the mangroves are very muddy. - -The bread made here is generally of an inferior quality, although the -flour is good, both that procured from Chile, and that from the -provinces of Quito and Cuenca. Rice, _garbansas_, a species of pea, -brought from Lambayeque, beans, quinua, lentils, and other pulse are -cheap; European vegetables are scarce, the yuca, camote, pumpkins, and -other gourds, are very plentiful, but the natives prefer the plantain to -any vegetable, using it baked, boiled or fried; green, half ripe, or -ripe, at every meal; and many foreigners after residing here a short -time become equally partial to it. The Guayaquileņos are often ridiculed -by strangers on account of their predilection for plantains; they are -reported as having imitations of rolls made of wood on their tables, -and their real plantains under the napkins. Some of the butter of this -province is well tasted, but the greater part used, as well as the -cheese, is brought from the _sierra_, mountains. - -The fruit market at Guayaquil is most abundant; here are enormous -melons, and water melons, which may be cut and tasted before they are -purchased; several varieties of the pine apple, and cashew nuts, which -resemble a small kidney growing at the end of an apple; thus, unlike -other fruit, the seed grows on the exterior of the apex; the very -astringent taste of this nut is destroyed by roasting it. The _anona_, -or _cabesa de negro_, is similar to the chirimoya, but it is neither so -large nor so delicate as that fruit: _badeas_ are very large and highly -flavoured: the _jobos_ are a fruit in size and shape like a large -damson, of a yellow colour, very juicy, with an agreeable acidity; when -green they make excellent tarts: the _mameis_ are an egg-shaped fruit, -with a fibrous rind, covering a pulpy substance, of a delicately sweet -taste; each contains one or two large rough kidney-shaped seeds: -_maraņones_, a fruit somewhat like a lemon; they have a smooth yellow -skin, striped with red; the pulp is very acid but agreeable, and is -sucked on account of its being very fibrous; in size and shape the seed -is like the cashew nut, but it is united to the fruit where this joins -the branch; the seed is more delicate than an almond, and it is used by -the confectioner as well as the fruit: _nisperos_, an egg shaped fruit -about four inches long; the rind is brown and rough; the pulp in some is -white, in others reddish, very sweet, and somewhat resembling the taste -of a delicious pear; each contains three long hard seeds--this fruit is -in season during the whole year: _zapotes_, a round fruit about five or -six inches in diameter, having a soft, downy, yellowish rind; the pulp -in some is a very deep yellow, in others it is white, in others almost -black, but the yellow kind is considered the best; they are very sweet, -but fibrous; in the centre is a large kernel, to which all the fibres -appear strongly attached. Oranges, limes, lemons, paltas, lucumas, -palillos, tamarinds, guavas, coconuts, and other intertropical fruits -are also in very great abundance. - -What may be termed a separate fruit market is the astonishing quantities -of plantains which are sold, because they constitute the principal -support of the lower classes, and are always to be found at the tables -of the higher. Large canoes and balsas, carrying five or six hundred -bunches of this fruit, arrive every day from different parts at the -city, and if the supply happen to be scanty for two or three days, the -arrival of canoes or balsas is hailed as a Godsend. Besides the quantity -of plantains consumed by the inhabitants, the country ships give rations -of them to their crews, instead of bread; and the natives feed their -poultry and pigs on the ripe ones. What adds greatly to the curiosity of -the market altogether, is the originality of the sight; it is -principally held on board the numberless canoes and balsas which arrive -from the country, and which remain close to the river side till they -have delivered their cargoes. - -The winter season, which commences here in the month of December, and -continues till the latter end of April, is very disagreeable, owing to -the heat, the constant want of a refreshing wind, the unceasing rains, -the frequent thunder storms, and the abundance of troublesome insects, -all of which seem to combine to incommode the human species; the -natives, however, appear to withstand the joint attack with wonderful -composure. During the remaining eight months of the year, which is -called the summer, the climate is not oppressive; a breeze from the -south-west, called the _chandui_, because it comes over a mountain of -this name, generally sets in about noon, and continues to blow till -five or six o'clock the following morning. The natives may be seen about -noon looking out for the breeze, and on the first appearance of it the -rollers of the blinds are placed between the ballustrades of the -varandas to catch it: along the Malecon, when it is observed to ripple -the water in the river, a general salutation often takes place, and -"yonder comes the chandui," may be heard on every side. During the -summer all kinds of provisions and fruit are abundant, and of a better -quality, and the city is then very healthy; but during the winter -intermittent fevers, dysenteries, and diseases of the eyes, are very -common, and often prove fatal. - -Strangers at Guayaquil are much annoyed by the troublesome insects, as -well as the most poisonous reptiles, which abound there. During the -rainy months the mosquitos appear in such swarms, that it is impossible -to avoid them; and, besides the bite, the continued humming noise which -they make prevents a person, unaccustomed to such music, from sleeping, -although his bed may be furnished with curtains to protect him against -their bite. Another small insect, called _jejen_, is extremely -troublesome: it is so diminutive, that it can pass the bed-curtains, -unless they be made of some close fine material; and its bite causes a -greater degree of irritation than that of the mosquito. Ants creep about -the houses in such prodigious numbers, that it is almost impossible to -prevent them from mixing with the victuals, particularly sweetmeats; and -it is no uncommon thing, when you take off the crust of a tart, or open -ajar of preserves, to find that the whole has been consumed by these -insects, and the despoilers in complete possession of the cup or jar. I -have frequently seen a cold fowl brought to the table, and on carving it -the ants would sally forth in droves, and run all over the table; even -the beds are invaded by them, and that person would smart for it who -should unwarily lay himself down, without the necessary precaution of -well examining the premises. - -Another very small insect, called the _comejen_, although not -troublesome in the same manner as the foregoing, is more so in other -respects. Its destructive qualities are so active, that in the space of -one night it will penetrate the hardest wood, or any other similar -substance. I have been assured, that in the same space of time, it has -been known to perforate a bale of paper, passing quite through -twenty-four reams. This insect builds its nest under the eaves of the -houses, of a glutinous clay, similar to that used by the swallows in the -fabrication of their nests; but the comejen continues his for several -yards in length. The greatest care is necessary to prevent their -entering a store or any such place, where their depredations would cause -a considerable decrease in the value of the contents. The natives -sometimes daub their nests with tar, which destroys the whole swarm; for -if disturbed, they will divide into different Societies, and each will -separately search for a convenient place in which to form a new one. - -In the archives of Quito, there is a curious royal decree of Carlos III. -respecting this insect. A number of cases of gun-flints had been sent to -Panama from Spain, for the purpose of being forwarded to Lima; but their -non-arrival at this place caused the Viceroy to repeat his request to -the court for the supply; this produced an investigation--the flints -were traced to Panama, and the governor was ordered to account for them. -In his answer to the minister, he stated, that the comejen had destroyed -the cases in the royal magazine. The minister being ignorant of what the -comejen was, an order was issued under the royal seal, commanding the -governor of Panama to apprehend the comejen--to form a summary process -on the crimes which he had committed, then to send the prisoner and -documents, with the necessary guard, in custody to Spain, that he might -be dealt with according to the extent of his criminality! - -The _nigua_, called _piqui_ in Lima and other parts of Peru, is a -diminutive insect, in appearance like a small flea. They generally -introduce themselves under the cuticle of the feet, which causes a -slight itching: when they have thus established their residence, they -deposit a great number of eggs, the whole increasing to the size of a -pea; if not carefully taken out they continue to breed, and, corroding -the neighbouring parts, they produce malignant ulcers, which sometimes -terminate in gangrene. The greatest care is necessary in taking out -these diminutive but disagreeable insects; no part should be left -behind, and the whole of the bag which contains the ovii should be -extracted; when they have been suffered to remain several days they -occasion great pain. Negroes are most troubled with them, on account of -their going barefoot, and of their inattention to cleanliness. - -The reptiles that frequent the houses in Guayaquil are the _alacran_, -which in shape resembles a lobster: the body is about an inch long, and -the tail, which has nine joints, is of the same length; the end of the -tail is armed with a small hooked instrument, with which the animal can -inflict a sting so poisonous, that it causes violent pain in the part -affected; considerable degree of fever, excessive thirst, hardness of -the tongue, and sometimes delirium ensues; but all the effects generally -cease within twenty-four hours. The remedy usually applied is -cauterizing the part with a lighted segar. - -The _ciento pies_ are from three to six inches long; they have thirty -articulations or joints, and sixty feet; they are covered with small -scales of a brownish hue, and have organs suited for biting, both at the -head and at the tail, either of which cause violent pain, and a -considerable degree of fever. The remedy used by the natives is the same -as for the bite of the alacran. - -Many _salamanquecas_, small chameleons, run about the houses, at which -the natives are very much alarmed, fancying that their scratch is -mortal; and certainly it must be fancy, for there is no record of any -person having been scratched by them. On account of the insects and -reptiles, and during the rainy season, when a few snakes introduce -themselves into the houses, all the inhabitants smoke segars, being -persuaded that the smoke of tobacco drives them away; so that even the -females and the children become habituated to the use of this herb, -which in Guayaquil is cheap, and of a good quality. - -The most important part of Guayaquil is the dock yard; it produces -employment for a great number of mechanics, promotes labour, and -consequently independence in a considerable portion of the inhabitants. -It also promotes the circulation of money in the neighbourhood, by -encouraging the consumption of wood, which is brought from the -surrounding country; and the effect caused by giving, through the medium -of labour, the greatest possible value to the natural produce of the -country is no where so visible as in this city, heightened undoubtedly -by the contrast to be met with in the other colonial districts. Here the -working mechanic is sure of employment; he can calculate with certainty -on his earnings, and by being indispensably necessary he acquires a -personal independence, totally unknown where labour is scarce, or -population excessive. - -Some of the vessels built here have been very much admired by foreigners -capable of appreciating their architectural merits; and particularly -schooners of a hundred and fifty or two hundred tons burthen. The -largest ship ever built in this dock yard was the San Salvador, of seven -hundred tons; but vessels of from three to five hundred tons are very -common. The master ship builder is a mulatto, a native of Guayaquil, as -well as the masters caulker and rigger. Excepting the wood, all the -other materials are procured from Europe; thus the most extensive market -for iron, sheet copper, and all kinds of naval stores, is furnished at -Guayaquil. - -Very great economical improvements might undoubtedly be made in this -yard, and particularly, in the timber. A foreign carpenter would be much -surprised to see a man take a solid log of wood, and chalk out a curved -plank for the bow or stern of a boat, and cut it with an axe, forming -but one plank out of each log, and this by no means so durable as a -straight plank would be when curved by artificial means: this is -observable in the durability of the wood in the different parts of their -boats. The introduction of sawing mills here would be of the greatest -importance, as well as at Talcahuano, in Chile, and would amply repay -the speculator who should establish them. The rise and fall of the tide -would furnish, at very little expence, the necessary power for the -machinery. The sum paid for the sawing of a single plank, twelve inches -broad and sixteen or eighteen feet long, is six reals, or three-quarters -of a dollar: this will convey an idea of the importance of such an -establishment as the one just mentioned. At present (1824) the -objections that would formerly have been started during the domination -of the Spaniards necessarily disappear, not so much perhaps from an -increase of knowledge as from an increase of work, and a diminution of -workmen; this being the unavoidable result of the war in Peru, and that -the consequence of the flattering prospect which the emancipation of the -colonies now presents. Many other improvements which are generally -adopted in the English arsenals would be found of vast importance in the -ship yard at Guayaquil; which, from its situation, must ever remain the -principal station for ship building on the shores of the Pacific. - -The balsa is one of the most early specimens of the art of -ship-building, if simplicity of construction can warrant the assertion -in general terms; it certainly, however, was the only large vehicle in -possession of the natives when the Spaniards arrived in this part of the -New World. Of the conveniency of this rude vessel, both Asara and Acosta -speak, when Orellana transferred the city of Guayaquil from the bay of -Charapota, near to where the town of Monte Christi now stands, to the -western shores of the river, because it served to transport his -soldiers, auxiliaries, and stores, when the indians burnt that town in -1537. - -The balsa is formed by laying together five, seven, or more large trunks -of the _palo de balsa_ or _ceibo_, which is so porous and light, that a -man can carry a log thirty feet long and 12 inches in diameter; pieces -of cedar, about six inches square, or large canes, are next laid -crossway upon these, and the whole are tied together with the tough -pliant stems of a creeping plant, called _bejuco_; split canes are -afterwards laid along these rafters, to form what may be termed the deck -of the balsa. Instead of a mast, the sail is hoisted on two poles, or -sheers, of mangrove wood, inclining a little forward, being supported by -two backstays. The sail is a large square lugsail, with halyards and -braces. For propelling the balsa along during a calm, the natives use a -long paddle, broad at the lower extremity; they let this fall -perpendicularly at the stern of the balsa, and then drag the end -forwards, by which means the broad end of the paddle sweeps through the -water as it rises, and impels the balsa forward, though very slowly. -The rudder is formed of one of these paddles lashed astern, and is -managed by one or two men; besides which they have several boards, each -three or four yards long and two feet broad, called _guaras_; these they -insert between the main or central logs, and allow them to dip more or -less into the water: these boards serve for a keel, and prevent the -balsa from upsetting or making much lee-way. By raising or lowering -these boards in different parts of the balsa, the natives can perform on -their raft all the manoeuvres of a regularly built and well rigged -vessel, an invention which I believe is not generally known, and the -utility of which might be very great in cases of shipwreck, where the -seamen have to betake themselves to rafts, without being acquainted with -so easy a method of steering them, and of preventing them from -capsizing. - -All the balsas have a small shed built on them, which serves the -purposes of a cabin; they are formed of canes, and the roof is covered -with palm leaves, or those called _vijao_, which are similar in shape to -those of the banana, but not so liable to break or split. Some of the -large balsas have a comfortable house built on them, composed of four, -five, or more rooms; the sides and roof being lined with chintz, with -mats on the floors; and are most comfortable conveyances for passengers -or parties of pleasure. - -The balsas are used in the river for loading and unloading the vessels, -for carrying the produce of the country from one part to another; also -as stages for careening ships, and for heaving them down, besides many -other similar purposes: with them also the natives perform voyages to -Paita, Sechura, Pacasmayo, and even Huanchaco; beating up against the -wind and current a distance of four degrees of latitude, having on board -five or six hundred quintals of goods as a cargo, besides a crew of -indians and their provisions. - -The canoes of Guayaquil are, although unornamented, very handsomely -constructed; they are generally made of cedar, _huachapeli_, or _ceibo_: -some of them are upwards of twenty feet long, and three feet wide. A -large canoe built upon with two or three rows of planks is called a -_chata_, and is used for bringing down the cocoa and other productions -from the plantations; where, owing to the narrowness of the creeks, and -the many turns and windings, the balsas are useless: these also have a -lugsail and a jib. - -Many persons have been surprised at not finding the Guayaquil merchants -possessed of very large capitals: this may be attributed to various -causes; the repeated fires have destroyed considerable stocks of -merchandize, and as there are no insurance companies, the whole loss has -fallen on the individual proprietors. The merchants are also generally -supplied with European manufactures from the Lima and Panama markets, -which increases the price of the commodity; and the decrease in the -consumption is necessarily in the inverse ratio of the price. Goods -manufactured in the neighbouring provinces are commonly brought to -market by the manufacturers themselves, from whom the inhabitants -purchase them at high prices. The produce of the province is generally -purchased by commission from Peru and Mexico, so that the merchants of -Guayaquil are in some degree, only brokers. Small speculations and -activity will insure to any one most excellent profits, and hence the -considerable number of persons in this city who enjoy a comfortable -independence; and probably this is another objection to the amassing of -large fortunes by commerce. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - Productions of the Province of Guayaquil, Cocoa....cultivation.... - Harvest....Tobacco....Timber....Salt....Cattle....Minor Articles of - Trade...._Turbines_ found at Santa Elena....Large Bones, &c.... - Animals, _Perico_, _Ligero_....Monkeys...._Iguanas_....Toucanes.... - _Trompeteros_....Snakes....Curiquinqui, Snake-eater...._Huaco_, - Antidote for the Bite of Snakes...._Lagartos_, Alligators, - Description of....Methods of Killing....Fishermen....Mineral - Productions. - - -The following account of the productions of the province of Guayaquil is -partly from my own observation, and partly from statements given to me -by some very respectable natives, on whose veracity I could rely. - -The most important production of this rich part of South America, as an -article of exportation, is the cocoa, the utility and delicacy of which, -as an article of food, needs no other encomium than that Linnæus calls -it _Theobroma_, the beverage of the Gods. The _cacao_, so called by the -Indians, and which name it still retains in America, is cultivated here -to a very great extent, and considerable profit; but, like many other -articles, it requires greater care to render it abundantly productive -than what it usually receives. It is sometimes sown in nurseries, on a -good soil, where it can be irrigated and shaded from the sun till the -plants are about two feet high; at which time they are fit for -transplanting; but it is more frequently sown where the plants are to -remain. For this purpose the ground is first prepared by clearing away -the wood, which is allowed to dry and is then burnt, excepting some -lofty trees, which are left to form a shade over the cacao trees; for -this, unlike other fruit trees, must be protected against the rays of -the sun during every period of its existence. The ground is then divided -into compartments, by cutting trenches for the purpose of draining it -during the rainy seasons. The cacao beans, fresh from the ripe pod, are -laid on the ground in pairs, fourteen or fifteen feet asunder; these are -very slightly covered with earth, and a folded leaf of plantain laid -over them to preserve the moisture, or prevent the heavy rains from -destroying the young plants. If the two beans germinate, the weaker -plant is cut down, when both have grown to that height which allows the -planter an opportunity of judging of their strength. At the time that -the cacao is planted, bananas, or plantains, are also sown, ranges of -the young plants being placed between those of the cacao, for the -purpose of procuring a shade for the shrubs; and it is calculated that -on an average the crop of plantains will defray the whole expence of the -plantation. - -Until the cacao tree has grown to the height of four feet it is pruned -to the stem, and then allowed to throw out three or four branches, at -equal distances, from which the leaves are stripped, to prevent them -from drooping; all suckers are also removed, and the tree grows to the -height of eighteen or twenty feet. - -When the cacao tree begins to bear, which is commonly the third year -after planting, then as well as before that period, it is assaulted by -several enemies of the caterpillar species; one of this tribe is four -inches long, and one in circumference round the body; it is belted -alternately with black and pale yellow stripes; these and all others are -carefully sought for and killed. When the tree begins to bear fruit, the -cavias, monkeys, squirrels, and the parrots, commit the greatest -depredations, and nothing but fire-arms will drive them away; they skip -and fly from tree to tree, and do more damage by breaking the branches, -than if they were allowed to remain and feed quietly on the fruit; some -of the monkey tribes are so impudent, that they will perch themselves on -the branches, break off the ends or the fruit, and throw them at the -person who attempts to disturb them. - -The flower of the cacao is white; it is attached by a short stem to the -larger branches, or to the trunk of the tree; the pod which contains the -beans is shaped like a melon, about three inches long; when ripe it is -of a yellow colour; from twenty to thirty beans are closely imbedded in -five rows in each pod, in a soft, moist, downy substance, beautifully -white, and of a very agreeable subacid taste. - -The two principal harvests of the cacao are in June and December, but -many of the planters prefer gathering the pods during the whole year, -whenever they are in a state of maturity. When the pods are gathered -from the trees, they are carried in large baskets to a place properly -prepared by cleaning it, and laid on plantain leaves spread for this -purpose; those who are appointed to separate the beans from the pods, -take a small knife-shaped instrument, of bone or hard wood, and make two -or more incisions through the rind, and then throw them to others, who -shake out the beans. These are allowed to remain covered with plantain -leaves, for three or four days, but not more, when they are spread out -to dry; and when they are perfectly so, they are carried to some place -prepared to receive them, where the greatest care is necessary to -preserve them from becoming wet, or from fermenting, which is the case -if they be not completely dry when housed. A small stove would often -save a cacao grower many thousand dollars, particularly in the December -harvest, when the rains prevail. - -The cacao plantations generally abound with snakes; for the cutting down -of the brushwood, and the subsequent care requisite to prevent it from -growing and injuring the plants, allow the rays of the sun to penetrate -in many places, and these dangerous reptiles resort to them for the -purpose of basking in the sun, of which they appear very fond. At night -the enormous quantity of fire-flies, _lucernas_, which fly about in all -directions, is truly beautiful, and their united light is sometimes so -great, as to allow a person to see his way along a narrow path. - -On an average the quantity of cacao harvested in the province of -Guayaquil is six hundred thousand _fanegas_, of three bushels each; it -sometimes sells at seven dollars the fanega. The cacao of Guayaquil is -of an inferior quality, the bean is large compared to that of Carraccas, -and three times the size of the best cacao, which is that of Soconusco; -it is much drier than either of these, and consequently much lighter, -and has a more bitter taste; however, the demand for it was never below -the quantity produced, and ships from Callao to Spain generally dropped -down to Guayaquil to take in cargoes of it; besides the annual supply to -Peru, Chile, and Mexico. The cacao produced in the lieutenancy of -Machala is considered the best; but I have not the least doubt, that if -due attention were paid to the cultivation and harvesting, such as is -bestowed in England on vegetables of minor importance, the cacao of -Guayaquil would both increase in quantity and improve in quality. No -soil or climate can be better suited to its growth than those of this -province, for it requires heat in this, and moisture in that. At present -(1824) the political changes have opened a fair field to the investment -of British capital, and the exertions of British industry in this rich -and fertile province; in which I hope to see both employed and -prospering, not only in commercial intercourse, but in mechanical and -agricultural improvements. - -Very large plantations of tobacco are cultivated in this province, -particularly in the department of Daule and Puerto Viejo; it is packed -in the leaf, and supplies the interior provinces, Peru and Chile; its -quality is mild and good, and although it is a royal monopoly, the King -paying only one and a half real, three-sixteenths of a dollar, per -pound, it employs many of the natives, and pays them moderately well. - -Timber is another article of commerce, large quantities being carried to -Peru, besides the great consumption of it here in the dock yard: the -kinds of timber used in ship-building are _roble_, a kind of oak, -_guachapeli_, _balsamo_, cedar, _maria_, _huarango_, and _piņuela_; in -addition to which varieties, there are, for other purposes, saffron, -laurel, negro, _caoba_, a kind of mahogany, ebony, _cascol_, _guayacan_, -_colorado_, _guayabo_, _mangle_, _canelo_, and others of minor -importance. - -Salt is another branch of commerce of considerable consequence; it is -produced at the Punta de Santa Elena, and carried to Quito, Cuenca, -Loxa, as well as to every part of the provinces subject to these -capitals; and it is a source of great wealth to this province. - -The trade in horned cattle, mules, and horses, of which there is an -excess in the savanas of Guayaquil, is extensive; they are driven into -the interior, where they find a good market, and amply repay the -breeder. The province of Guayaquil also produces many articles of less -moment, but all contributing to enrich its inhabitants; some of these -are bees wax, honey, small quantities of excellent coffee, rice, -_ajonjoli_, cotton, bark for tanning, _vainilla_, coconuts, copal gum, -sarsaparilla, sassafras, anime balsam, cassiafistula, caraņa gum, and -_cascol_, a kind of black sealing wax; large quantities of _pita_, -thread, are spun also from the agave Americana, and many thousands of -hats are made annually by the indians in the department of Xipixapa, of -a fine white rush, some of which sell for upwards of twenty dollars -each. - -The small shell-fish found on the rocks near to Santa Elena are worthy -of notice, as I believe them to be the true Turbines. They are about the -size of a hazel nut, shaped like a snail, and by different operations -the beautiful purple dye is obtained from them. Some prick the fish with -a needle or cactus thorn, and then press it down into the shell till a -small quantity of milky juice appears, into which a portion of cotton is -dipped; it is put into an earthen jar or cup, and the fish is placed -again on the rock: others take the fish out of the shell, and lay it on -their hands; they press it with a knife from the head towards the tail -or the slender part, which becomes filled with the liquid, and is cut -off, and cotton is applied to absorb the moisture, otherwise thread is -passed through it. When the cotton is soaked in the liquor, and a -sufficient quantity is obtained, it is mixed with as much dry cotton as -it will conveniently make damp, the cotton being well carded or teased; -it is afterwards dried and spun; when thread is used it is only drawn -through the liquor and dried. The colour is at first a pale yellow, it -subsequently changes to a greenish hue, and in the course of a few hours -it acquires the beautiful purple tinge so much admired by the ancients, -and which no future washing or exposure to the air can alter. The thread -dyed by the liquid procured from this small fish is often sold in -Guayaquil, and is called _caracolillo_, from _caracol_, a snail. - -At the Punta de Santa Elena, enormous remains of unknown animals have -been discovered, which M. de Humboldt says were cetaceous; and Ulloa, -agreeing with the popular opinion here, calls them the remains of -giants, because the indians are in possession of a tradition, that men -of a colossal stature once landed at this point. I saw a grinder in the -possession of Don Jose Merino, at Guayaquil, which weighed five pounds -three ounces, and the enamel was spotted like the female tortoise shell. - -The jaguar is an inhabitant, and may be justly stiled the lord of the -forest; it is called by the natives _tigre_, tiger, and is in size and -fierceness almost equal to the oriental tiger; the fur is short, thick, -and glossy, the colour is a bright yellow, marked along the spine with a -chain of occelated or eye-shaped spots, like black rings, having a black -spot in the centre of each; along the sides are four chains of rings, -but these are rather oval than round, each of them generally containing -two spots; however along the sides the rings are not so regular as along -the back, indeed the rings often appear to be formed of three or four -oblong spots, including two in the centre; the belly is white, with -transverse black stripes. The face and sides of the neck are very -thickly studded with black spots. The fur of the tail is not glossy; on -the upper part the pattern is a zig-zag, and not spotted like the body. - -The jaguar preys on the cattle in the savanas, lurking about and -securing a bullock or young horse; after making a hearty meal he retires -to a considerable distance, and never returns to the same place within a -month, being suspicious perhaps of being detected and punished. Pressed -by hunger, he has been known to attack human beings, and even to loiter -about at night, waiting for an opportunity to seize on any one who may -leave the house; having once tasted human flesh, he becomes either more -daring, or averse to other food; but when it is known that a tiger has -destroyed any person, the cause is made a common one, and all the people -in the neighbourhood join and pursue the enemy till they kill it. - -In the woods there is found a species of sloth, called by the natives -_perico ligero_, nimble peter; it is also called ahi, probably from the -pitiful noise which it makes. I have seen it several times, but the -following description of it was given to me by Dr. Hurtado, of -Guayaquil:-- - -"The snout short, forehead high, eyes black, almost covered with long -black eyelashes, no incisors in the under jaw, four legs, ill formed, -thighs ill-shaped and clumsy, hind legs short and thick, the toes -united, having three long curved claws on the hind and fore feet, -twenty-eight ribs, three stomachs, very short intestines, only one -aperture for the emission of excrements, like birds; very short tail, -and the whole length of the body between four and five feet." - -This animal in appearance is the very picture of misery; it is covered -with long shaggy hair resembling dried grass; its motion is very slow, -and at each step it howls most hideously, and scarcely walks ten yards -in as many hours. It feeds on leaves and the buds of trees, and when it -has once gained the top of a tree it will remain there as long as a leaf -is to be procured, and even for some time afterwards, crying and -howling, till hunger obliges it to search for food; it then forms itself -into a round lump and drops from the tree upon the ground, as if devoid -of life. The indians sometimes kill and eat it, and if fat they relish -the flesh, which they say is very savoury; but I never had an -opportunity of tasting it. - -Many deer, _venados_, similar to those of Peru, some cavias, and four -varieties of the monkey, are also found in the woods; of these, two -species when erect stand four feet high; the one is completely black, -with very long arms, hence called _brasilargo_, and is excellent eating; -the other has a black back and brown belly, and is called _mongon_; the -other two kinds are when erect about eighteen inches high; the one is of -a yellow brown colour, and the other is black with a white face: all the -four species have long tails. Many _iguanas_ are met with in different -parts of the province; the body is about a foot long, with a row of -points along the back like the fins of a fish, the head has a crest -like that of the dunghill cock; the mouth is similar to the beak of a -parrot, the bite of which is very severe, as it divides almost every -thing that comes between its jaws; the legs are short, and the toes are -partly connected by a membrane, like the feet of some water-fowl; the -tail is very slender and as long as the body, having very much the -appearance of a snake; by whipping with it when vexed it can inflict a -very severe wound; its colour is green and yellow, and the natives often -say, that if it had wings it would be the devil himself. They are -oviparous, and the female lays from twenty to thirty eggs at one time: -these are white, and covered with a membrane instead of a shell, and are -most delicate eating. The flesh of the animal too is whiter and more -savoury than that of the barn door fowl. They are chiefly found on the -branches of trees, and when pursued on the ground will betake themselves -to their burrows or to the water. - -Among the feathered tribe there are many beautiful parrots, parroquets, -and papagayos; the toucan, called here _dios te dé_, is common in the -woods, particularly in the neighbourhood of the banana plantations, on -the ripe fruit of which it feeds; the back, wings, and tail, are black, -the breast a beautiful bright yellow, and the beak, which is as long as -the body of the bird, is yellow on the upper side, and the rest brown; -the tongue is long, slender and serrated; on the whole the appearance of -the bird is very awkward, owing to the immense size of the beak. - -Here are many wild turkeys, some of which are delicate eating; -_huacharacas_, a species of pheasant, and _poujis_, equally or more -delicate; the latter are as large as our turkeys; the male is black, -with a high crest of beautiful black and white feathers on its head; the -hen is brown, spotted with black, having a crest or topping like the -male, which it spreads in the form of a fan when vexed, and then allows -it to fall backward on the neck. - -The _trompetero_ is a native of this province, and is often -domesticated, as well as the toucan, poujis, and several different kinds -of parrots; the trompetero is about the size of a barn door fowl, and -entirely black, excepting a few long yellow feathers on the neck; it -becomes very tame, and will follow the people to whom it belongs, making -a noise somewhat like the sound of a trumpet, which, according to the -general opinion, proceeds from the anus; the sound however is so varied -and modulated, that it sometimes appears to proceed from one part and -sometimes from another. On the arrival of a stranger it will immediately -parade the room, and receive him with a musical welcome. - -Here are also several varieties of pigeons and other small birds, -particularly humming birds; these beautiful flutterers fly in all -directions, sipping the honey from the flowers, especially those of the -plantain and the banana, which are their favourites, and in which they -are often completely hidden while feeding on their nectareous sweets. -The small birds are more worthy of admiration for the brilliancy of -their plumage than for the sweetness of their notes; indeed very few of -them ever sing; and the continued chattering of the parrots is very -disagreeable. The most useful bird here is the gallinaso, it may be -called the public scavenger, and it is protected by the municipal law, -which imposes a fine of five dollars on any person who kills one of -them. - -Numerous snakes infest the whole of the province of Guayaquil, and -individuals are often bitten by them; but the natives are possessed of -remedies, and against the poison of some, of specific antidotes. They -make the patient drink a considerable quantity of olive oil, scarify -round the wound, and apply pieces of calcined stag's horn; but the -safest remedy known among the natives is the leaves of a creeper called -_huaco_, which growls in the woods. The leaves are bruised to the -consistency of paste, which is made into small cakes, each about the -size of half a crown, and then dried in the shade. When a person is -bitten, he puts one of these small cakes in his mouth, and chews it till -the bitter taste is gone, at the same time swallowing his saliva; he is -then bathed, the chewed herb is taken from his mouth and bound over the -wound, and he recovers. The visible effects are a copious perspiration. -When at Esmeraldas I was bitten in the hand by a coral snake, the bite -of which is considered mortal if not immediately cured; the pain which I -felt was a violent burning near the wound; it gradually spread over the -part affected, accompanied with a peculiar sensation, which appeared as -if a large weight were hanging to my hand, and which prevented me from -raising it. A native who was with me having observed what had happened, -immediately gave me a cake of the huaco herb, ordered me to chew it, and -began to press my hand, squeezing the wound; in about five minutes the -pain abated, and the bitter taste of the herb was gone. I bathed in the -river, and laid myself down in a canoe, where I was covered with a -poncho and taken to my home, which was about four miles from the spot -where the accident happened. During the time that I remained in the -canoe I perspired most profusely, and after retiring to my bed, more so; -the pain in my hand was very much allayed, but I felt a general numbness -and great debility, accompanied with nausea; I drank a large glass of -almond milk, _orchata_, and slept about an hour; on waking I found -myself feverish, my tongue parched and hard, and for four days I was -very ill. A poultice of boiled pumpkin was continually kept on my hand, -and the wound began to suppurate on the fourth day, when my health was -gradually restored. All this time I was very apprehensive of danger, -although the natives assured me that as twenty-four hours had elapsed -since the bite, I was perfectly safe. For more than a fortnight I felt -the effects of the poisonous fangs of the reptile, which the natives had -killed almost immediately after it had wounded me, and brought it to my -house. I never saw the huaco herb growing, but I have seen it when -brought from the woods; the leaves are about two and a half inches long -and half an inch broad; the upper surface is of a dark green, with -purple veins running along it, of a glossy appearance and solid texture; -the under side is of an obscure purple hue; the leaves grow singly, two -being placed opposite to each other on the stem, which is slender, hard, -and ribbed, and of a bluish colour. I never saw the flower, and the -natives when I asked them concerning it, told me that it never did -flower, at least that they had never observed any flowers on the plant. - -Fortunately, a bird at Guayaquil called _quiriquinqui_, at Esmeraldas -and on the coast of Choco, _huaco_, and at Quito, _beteado de oro_, is a -great enemy to the snakes, and other venomous reptiles and insects, on -which it feeds. It is a species of vulture, about the size of a hen, and -is easily domesticated; its colour is a bright brown, variegated with -stains of pale yellow. It flies about the woods, or runs along the -savanas in quest of its food, and attacks the snakes, opposing its wing -to them as a shield; when the animal is somewhat exhausted by striking -at the bird, it seizes the reptile near the head, and biting it rises on -its wings, and afterwards alights, and observes if it be dead; if not, -it again bites it, and sometimes soaring aloft with it lets it fall, and -immediately drops down after it; when dead the bird devours it. The -natives affirm, that to this bird they owe the discovery of the herb -which they call huaco; they observed that the bird, after fighting with -a snake, would sometimes search for the herb and eat it; hence they -supposed it to be an antidote for the poison, which experience has -proved to be correct. - -The poisonous snakes found here are the _bejuco_, about two feet long, -very slender, and of a brown colour, having the appearance of a small -cane; the _cascabel_, one of the varieties of the rattle snake; it is -sometimes five feet long, and spotted with white and yellow; the coral, -of a very beautiful appearance, owing to its bright colours, which are a -deep red, bright yellow, and black, in alternate belts; the head is very -flat, and although the animal is small, seldom exceeding two feet in -length, its bite is considered of the most poisonous kind, and if not -directly cured generally proves mortal in a few hours; the effects are -an immediate swelling, and afterwards an exudation of blood from every -part of the body, accompanied with the most agonizing pain, till death -relieves the wretch from the anguish he endures. Don Pedro Figueroa, to -whose attention I owed my cure, assured me, that he once saw the corpse -of a negro who died of the bite of the coral snake, and that it had -become completely white. The _exis_ is so called on account of the marks -along the back, from the head to the extremity of the tail; its length -is from three to four feet, head flat, colour dark brown, with white -marks like XX along the back. This snake is most active and poisonous, -and is much dreaded. The _sierpe volante_ is very dangerous; it is about -eighteen inches long, very slender, of a dark brown colour, and can -spring to a great distance to inflict its poisonous wound; hence the -natives call it the flying serpent. Here are several kinds of harmless -snakes, which the natives never kill, as they are great enemies of the -poisonous ones; I once saw one of these, called the _sobre cama_, -devouring an exis larger than itself. - -The river of Guayaquil and the creeks that empty themselves into it, -abound with alligators, _lagartos_, or _caimanes_, so much so, that on -the banks where they lie basking in the sun they appear like logs of -wood thrown up by the tide, and are so unapprehensive of danger, that a -canoe or boat may pass very near to them without their being disturbed; -when basking in this manner they keep their enormous mouths open, and -owing to the colour of the fleshy substance on the inside of the lower -jaw, as well as to a musky scent which accompanies their breath, great -numbers of flies are allured to enter the mouth, the upper jaw of -which, when a sufficient number are collected, suddenly falls down, and -the deluded insects are swallowed. - -The alligator is an oviparous animal; the female deposits her eggs in -the sand, laying in the course of one or two days from eighty to a -hundred; they are much larger than those of a goose, and much thicker; -they are covered with a very tenacious white membrane, and are often -eaten by the indians, who when they take them first open a small hole in -the larger end, and place the egg in the sand with the hole downward; by -this means a peculiarly disagreeable musky taste is destroyed; they -afterwards cook them in the same manner as other eggs. I have tasted -them, and found nothing disagreeable, except their being very tough. -After depositing her eggs the female covers them with sand, and then -rolls herself over them, and continues rolling to the water side, as if -to prevent the spot being found where she has left her deposit; but the -vigilant gallinasos are generally on the alert at this season, and when -they have found the nest, destroy the whole of them. The people who live -near the sides of the river train their dogs to search for the eggs, as -well as to destroy them; and thus thousands are annually broken. - -When instinct informs the alligator that the time of ovation is -completed, both the male and female go to the nest, and if undisturbed -the female immediately uncovers the eggs, and carefully breaks them; the -young brood begin to run about, and the watchful gallinasos prey upon -them, while the male alligator, who appears to have come for no other -purpose, devours all that he possibly can; those that can mount on the -neck and back of the female are safe, unless they happen to fall off, or -cannot swim, in which cases she devours them. Thus nature has prepared a -destruction for these dangerous animals, which would otherwise be as -numerous as flies, and become the absolute proprietors of the -surrounding country; even at present, notwithstanding the comparatively -few that escape, their number is almost incredible. - -I have frequently seen the lagartos eighteen or twenty feet long. They -feed principally on fish, which they catch in the rivers, and are known -sometimes to go in a company of ten or twelve to the mouths of the small -rivers and creeks, where two or three ascend while the tide is high, -leaving the rest at the mouth; when the tide has fallen, one party -besets the mouth of the creek, while the other swims down the stream, -flapping their tails, and driving the fish into the very jaws of their -devourers, which catch them, and lift their heads out of the water to -swallow them. - -When these voracious creatures cannot procure a sufficient quantity of -fish to satisfy their hunger, they betake themselves to the savanas, -where they destroy the calves and foals, lurking about during the day, -and seizing their prey when asleep at night, which they drag to the -water side, and there devour it. The cattle and the dogs appear sensible -of their danger when they go to the rivers to drink, and will howl and -bark until they have attracted the attention of the lagartos at one -place, and then drop back and run to another, where they drink in a -hurry, and immediately leave the water side; otherwise, as has been the -case, an alligator would seize on them by the nose, drag them under the -water, and drown and eat them. - -When the lagarto has once tasted the flesh of animals it will almost -abandon the fish, and reside principally ashore. I crossed the large -plain of Babaoyo, where I saw a living one, buried, except the head, in -the clay, beside the remains of several dead ones. On inquiring how they -came there, the _montubios_, a name given here to the peasantry, told -me, that when the rains fall in the mountains the great part of this -savana is inundated, at which time the lagartos prowl about in search of -the cattle remaining on the small islands that are then formed; and when -the waters retire they are left embedded in the clay, till the ensuing -rains set them at liberty; they feed on flies in the way already -described, and can exist in this manner for six or seven months. When -found in this state the natives always kill them; sometimes by piercing -them with lances between the fore leg and the body, the only visible -part in which they are vulnerable; if they be not prepared with a lance, -they collect wood, and kindle a fire as near to the mouth of the lagarto -as they dare venture, and burn him to death. - -These animals will sometimes seize human beings when bathing, and even -take children from the shores; after having succeeded once or twice they -will venture to take men or women from the balsas, if they can surprize -them when asleep; but they are remarkably timid, and any noise will -drive them from their purpose. They have also been known to swim -alongside a small canoe, and to suddenly place one of their paws on the -edge and upset it, when they immediately seize the unwary victim. -Whenever it is known that a _cebado_, one that has devoured either a -human being or cattle, is in the neighbourhood, all the people join in -the common cause to destroy it; this they often effect by means of a -noose of strong hide rope, baited with some animal food; when the -lagarto seizes the bait its upper jaw becomes entangled with the rope, -and the people immediately attack it with their lances, and generally -kill it. - -The natives sometimes divert themselves in catching the lagartos alive; -they employ two methods, equally terrific and dangerous to a spectator, -at first sight; both of these were exhibited to Count Ruis, when we were -at Babaoyo, on our way to Quito. A man takes in his right hand a -truncheon, called a tolete; this is of hard wood, about two feet long, -having a ball formed at each end, into which are fastened two iron -harpoons, and to the middle of this truncheon a platted thong is -fastened. The man takes this in his hand, plunges into the river, and -holds it horizontally on the surface of the water, grasping a dead fowl -with the same hand, and swimming with the other: he places himself in a -right line with the lagarto, which is almost sure to dart at the fowl; -when this happens the truncheon is placed in a vertical position, and -at the moment that the jaw of the lagarto is thrown up the tolete is -thrust into the mouth, so that when the jaw falls down again the two -harpoons become fixed, and the animal is dragged to the shore by the -cord fastened to the tolete. When on shore the appearance of the lagarto -is really most horrible; his enormous jaw propped up by the tolete, -shewing his large sharp teeth; his eyes projecting almost out of his -head; the pale red colour of the fleshy substance on his under jaw, as -well as that of the roof of the mouth; the impenetrable armour of scales -which covers the body, with the huge paws and tail, all contribute to -render the spectacle appalling; and although one is perfectly aware that -in its present state it is harmless, yet it is almost impossible to look -on it without feeling what fear is. The natives now surround the lagarto -and bait it like a bull; holding before it any thing that is red, at -which it runs, when the man jumps on one side and avoids being struck by -it, while the animal continues to run forward in a straight line, till -checked by the thong which is fastened to the tolete. When tired of -teazing the poor brute, they kill it by thrusting a lance down its -throat, or under the fore leg into its body; unless by accident it be -thrown on its back, when it may be pierced in any part of the belly, -which is soft and easily penetrated. - -The other method is, by taking a fowl in one hand, and a sharp strong -knife in the other; the man swims till he is directly opposite to the -alligator, and at the moment when it springs at the fowl the man dives -under the water, leaving: the fowl on the surface; he then holds up the -knife to the belly of the animal, and cuts it open, when the alligator -immediately rolls over on its back, and is carried away by the stream. -Much has been said about the surprizing agility of some of the Spanish -bull fighters, and I have often beheld feats that have astonished me; -but this diversion at Babaoyo, for so the natives consider it, evinced -more bravery and agility than I had ever before witnessed. The teeth of -the alligator are often taken from the jaws, and _yesqueros_, small -tinder boxes, which are generally carried in the pocket for the purpose -of lighting segars, are made from them; they are beautifully white and -equal to the finest ivory; some are four inches long, and I have seen -them most delicately carved, and mounted with gold or silver. - -In fishing, the natives also evince extraordinary dexterity, both in the -river and on the sea shores. In the river I have seen them stand up in -small canoes, five or six feet long, and hold a net fastened to a -triangular frame, having a long pole affixed to it; they will dip the -net into the river, inclining the body backwards to preserve a perfect -balance on the canoe, sweep the net along the stream, and draw it to the -surface, raising the body gradually to an erect posture, so that the -equipoise is never lost; this indeed is a wonderful effort, because any -slight tremulous motion would upset the slender foundation on which they -stand. From similar canoes they will also throw the casting net, -_ataraya_, already described. At sea the natives, chiefly indians, mount -astride on logs of balsa wood, and take their large nets with them, -which they let drop; after which they fasten the cord of the two -extremities to the logs and paddle to the shore, dragging the net after -them, maintaining so exact a balance, that although the log is round -they very seldom fall off. - -In the sea along the coast of the department la Manta, very large cuttle -fish abound, some of which are twelve feet long and seven feet broad; it -was owing to the accidents which happened by their enveloping and -killing the divers that the pearl fishery on this coast was abandoned, -although some very valuable pearls have been found. This lucrative -occupation, however, if attended with such precautions as science may -suggest, will probably be reassumed; and the expectations of the natives -may be realized, that Providence has made a reserve and hidden treasures -from the Spaniards, that the country may not be unworthy of notice when -they lose it. - -The only mineral production in the province of Guayaquil of which any -mention is made, is emeralds, in the district of la Manta; but they have -not been sought for since the conquest; tradition states, that before -that period the indians possessed many of these gems, but it is probable -they obtained them from the neighbouring province de las Esmeraldas, -where I have seen several. - -After the foregoing description of Guayaquil and its productions, it is -almost unnecessary to say any thing respecting its importance as a place -of commerce. It is likewise the principal, and till very lately (1824) -was the only port to the provinces of Quito, Cuenca, Paste, and Papayan, -all of which are extensive, well peopled, and comparatively rich -districts. The only thing wanting here is an increase of capital, -activity, and inhabitants; for the climate and the soil are calculated -to produce whatever is found between the tropics; and there is no doubt -but that this will at a future date become one of the most flourishing -countries in the new world. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - Journey from Guayaquil to Quito....Babaoyo....Road to Chimbo.... - _Cuesta de San Antonio_....Arrival at Huaranda....Triumphal Arch - and Harangue....Description of Huaranda and Province of Chimbo.... - Chimboraso....Accident at la Ensillada....Road to San Juan.... - _Obrage_ of Indians....Arrival at Riobamba....Description of.... - Remains of Old Riobamba......Visit to an old Cacique......Province - of Riobamba......Road to Ambato....Description of....Produce.... - Arrival at Tacunga....Description of....Earthquakes at....Ruins of - Callo....Provincial Produce....Arrival at Chisinchi, Ensillada, and - Quito....Remarks. - - -The health of the count being re-established, we left Guayaquil under a -discharge of nineteen guns, some pieces of cannon having been placed in -front of the custom-house for this purpose. We remained two days at the -Bodegas de Babaoyo, a small village, where there is a custom-house for -the collection of the duties which are paid on goods, on entering or -leaving the province of Guayaquil. - -The roads across the savana, notwithstanding the absence of rain for -three months, were in some places very bad, although a number of Indians -had been sent by the Corregidor of Huaranda to repair them; they were -mended by putting the trunks of trees in the deep, muddy places, and -laying the branches and leaves of trees on the top. A considerable -number of cattle were grazing on the open plains, some of which were -very fat. At noon we halted at a farm-house, where a splendid dinner was -provided for us by the cura of San Miguel de Chimbo, who had come here -to meet us. After dinner we proceeded on our journey to a small -farm-house, where every convenient accommodation had been prepared for -us, and we remained here during the night. On the following day we -arrived at the village of San Miguel, situated in a deep ravine, -commanding a beautiful prospect of the mountains, which gradually rose -above each other, till their heads were lost in the clouds. On our -arrival at this village we were met by about forty indian boys, -_cholos_, fantastically dressed; and the little fellows danced along the -sides of the street as we passed to the house prepared for our -reception. - -On the following day, July 22d, a dreary prospect presented itself; this -was the ascent of the cuesta de San Antonio; we began to ascend at nine -o'clock in the morning, and at every step new difficulties and greater -dangers presented themselves; in some places the road ran along a narrow -ridge, with a precipice on each side; in others we had to travel along -_ladcras_, or narrow skirts of the mountain beaten down by travellers -into a path, with a deep valley on one side, and a perpendicular rock on -the other--a fall on one side threatening inevitable death, and on the -other broken arms or legs against the rough sides of the rock. In other -parts there was a narrow gully formed by the heavy rains and the transit -of mules, the perpendicular sides rising ten or fifteen feet above our -heads. To these may be added, that the whole of the road for six leagues -is composed of abrupt acclivities or rapid descents, while the track in -which the mules tread was composed of deep furrows, called _camellones_, -filled with mud; some of them were more than two feet deep, so that the -belly of the mule and the feet of the rider were dragged over the ridges -that divide the furrows: these indeed serve as steps, and in some degree -may be accounted a security; but if a mule should happen to fall, or -even to stumble, the danger of being thrown headlong down a precipice is -rather frightful. In some places there are two roads; the one by which -the mules descend has no camellones, or furrows, down which the mules -seem to prefer sliding to stepping down the others. When at the top, -these sagacious animals halt for a short time, shake themselves, and -snort, as if conscious of the hazard of the undertaking; they then draw -their hind feet forward, place their fore legs in a slanting position, -and approach very gradually to the beginning of the descent, when with -uncommon velocity they slide on their haunches to the bottom. Their -dexterity in the crooked places is truly astonishing; for by a motion of -the body they incline themselves first to one side then to the other, -keeping the most perfect equilibrium, which is the only means of saving -them and their riders from being hurled headlong forward, or dashed to -pieces by a fall. During all this time the rider has only to sit still, -to lay the reins on the mule's neck, and trust to its sagacity and the -recommendation given by its master; for many mules are kept in this -neighbourhood, and are highly esteemed for their dexterity in sliding -down this part of the road; fortunately for us, being in company with -the Captain-general of the kingdom, all the best mules were collected -for our use. - -At two o'clock in the afternoon we were cheered with _se ha acabado la -cuesta_, we are at the end of the mountain road. This place is called -_parcara_, a gate or entrance; it also signifies a fortified place; such -this probably was before the conquest, and such it was made in 1811 by -the Quiteņos, to prevent the entrance of the Peruvian troops. We all -alighted, and shook some of the dirt from our clothes, after which we -were politely received by Don Gaspar Morales, the Corregidor of -Huaranda, the two alcaldes, several officers, and other gentlemen of the -province; but what proved far more welcome, was a relay of horses. - -[Illustration: INDIAN WATER CARRIER, & FEMALE INDIAN BRUSH-WOOD CARRIER, -_OF QUITO_. - -_Engraved for Stevenson's Narrative of South America._] - -After our saddles had been placed on our new steeds we mounted, and -proceeded in regular procession, two indians, with silver trumpets, -going before. At the distance of a league from the town we were met by -the brawny vicar, mounted on the finest mule I ever beheld; indeed, such -an animal was quite necessary, when it is considered what an unwieldy -mass it had to carry: the circumstance made several of us smile, and we -could scarcely refrain from laughter when the corregidor presented him -to his excellency, saying, "the vicar of Huaranda, Don Juan Antonio -Maria de la Magdalena Jaramillo, Pacheco, y Tavera." Heaven help us, -said I, to an officer who stood near me, how I pity the parson's mule. - -We had not proceeded far when a troop of militia cavalry met us; these -tatterdemalions would certainly have borne away the prize had they been -put in competition with the infantry of Sir John Falstaff; and could I -have chosen for myself, hang me if I would have entered Huaranda in -their company. - -The next that made their appearance were the indian dancers, singing -their _cachuas_ in _Quichua_, welcoming the arrival of the governor with -the most discordant yellings, and such extravagant expressions as beggar -all description. At the entrance of the town there was a triumphal arch! -This was composed of canes, decorated with curtains of all colours and -descriptions of stuffs; ribbons for streamers, and flags made of pocket -handkerchiefs; silver plates, dishes, spoons, and forks were hung round -it. When his excellency had arrived close to it, a curtain was withdrawn -in the upper story, and an indian in the uniform of an officer, his -coarse black hair stiffened with tallow and flour, still incapable of -being turned into a curl, but standing upright in every direction, -advanced to the front, made a most profound bow, and then stepped back; -after this he looked up, and exclaimed, "_angil bello, daja el papel_," -"beautiful angel, give me the paper," but in such a broken dialect, that -nothing, save an acquaintance with the Spanish language, can afford any -idea. Several white muslin handkerchiefs, which were tied in festoons -above his head in imitation of clouds, opened, and down fell, or rather -was lowered with a rope, an indian angel, his head as thickly cased in -tallow and flour as that of his invocater; he delivered a folded paper, -and was again dragged up into the muslin clouds, while the delighted -multitude expressed their approbation with shouts of joy. The orator -re-advanced, and read his harangue with all the rhetoric and graceful -attitudes of a Bombasto. His address was succeeded by the throwing up of -innumerable rockets, amid the sound of trumpets and other music -stationed on one side of the arch; this was followed by our arrival at -the house of the Corregidor, where a most sumptuous dinner was on the -table. - -Huaranda is the residence of the Corregidor, or governor of the province -of Chimbo, and may be considered the capital of that province. The town -is large but poor, the inhabitants being chiefly occupied as carriers. -Their wealth consists in their droves of mules, which during the summer, -when the road is open, are employed in conveying merchandize between -Quito and Guayaquil. The climate at this place is remarkably cold, owing -to its elevation above the sea and the vicinity of Chimboraso, which is -seen from the town, and has the appearance of a huge white cloud -piercing the blue vault of heaven. - -The province of Chimbo has an extensive breed of mules in the valleys; -barley, potatoes, and maize are cultivated by the indians in various -parts, and some sugar cane in the bottoms of the ravines. At a place -called Tomabela is a spring of salt water, which is so completely -saturated that it forms large crusts on the stones against which the -water dashes, and along the sides of the small stream; the indians also -put the water into troughs, and stir it with a wooden spatula; the salt -then crystallizes on the sides of the trough, and is taken out; this -salt is packed in small baskets and sent to different parts of the -kingdom, as well as to Peru; it is a specific for the _cotos_, -bronchocele, by merely eating food seasoned with it. This valuable -production is delicately white, easily pulverised, and very slightly -deliquescent. - -Having taken some refreshment at Huaranda, we proceeded on the following -morning to the Pajonal, at the foot of the majestic Chimboraso, the -giant of the Andes. The day was beautifully clear, and the view of this -lofty mountain highly interesting; we had seen it at the mouth of the -Guayaquil river, as well as at that city, a distance of forty leagues, -where we were almost suffocated with heat; but now we felt almost -perished with cold: the kingdom of lofty palms and shady plantains was -in four days exchanged for a region where vegetation is reduced to its -lowest ebb--the dwarf pined mosses. - -A _tambo_, resting house, stands on the plain at the foot of Chimboraso; -this had been prepared for our reception; and to contribute in a degree -to make it more warm, or rather to keep out some of the cold, the inside -had been neatly covered with long dry grass, called _pajon_, which grows -on this plain. Owing to an accident, the grass caught fire in one of the -rooms, at two o'clock in the morning; we immediately ran from our beds, -or rather ran with our beds, for we dragged them with us, not a little -pleased, in this dilemma, that we had all of us retired to rest without -undressing; notwithstanding this we were dreadfully pinched by the -frosty air blowing from Chimboraso on one side, or Carguairaso on the -other. After the first blaze of the pajon had subsided, the indians -entered the house, and dragged out a few things which had been placed -inside, but fortunately the principal part of our luggage had been left -on the outside. We waited till morning, sitting on our mattresses, and -wrapped up in our ponchos and blankets, as near the fire as we dared to -venture. - -In the morning we proceeded on our journey, winding round the foot of -Chimboraso, till the valley of San Juan opened on our right; we -descended along a very rugged steep path, and at twelve o'clock arrived -at the _obrage_ of San Juan, belonging to Don Martin Chiriboga, where we -remained till the following morning. I here beheld the South American -indian reduced to the most abject state of servitude and bondage, -compared to which the slave belonging to the plantations on the coast of -Peru, is free indeed. - -These unfortunate beings, robbed of their country, are merely allowed to -exist in it; because the plunderers would only possess a barren waste -without their labour: the fertility of the soil would be useless without -beings to harvest the crops and manufacture the produce; the gold and -the silver must sleep in the mountains if no human beings were employed -to extract it. Alas! these beings are the degraded original proprietors, -on whom the curse of conquest has fallen with all its concomitant -hardships and penury. A miserable pittance of fourteen dollars a year is -the wages of a man who works in this cloth manufactory; and ten that of -him who tends a flock of sheep; and for this miserable pay they are -subject to the whip and to other corporal punishments: their home is a -hut, composed of rude stones placed one upon another, and thatched with -the long grass from the foot of Chimboraso: here, hunger, misery, and -wretchedness seem to have fixed their abode, at the sight of which pity -would wring tears from the heart of oppression; but pity has no part in -the composition of the oppressors of the Children of the Sun! - -Some of the cloth made at this obrage was the finest I had ever seen -manufactured in America, but this was by a transgression of the colonial -laws, which had established the precise quality of colonial -manufactures. Happy at leaving behind that misery which I could only -compassionate, we left San Juan in the morning, and arrived at two -o'clock in the afternoon at Riobamba, where some very neatly painted -triumphal arches had been erected. - -Riobamba is the capital of the province of the same name; the old town -was founded in 1533, by the Adelantado Sebastian Benalcasar; it -contained twenty thousand inhabitants, two parish churches, four -convents, two nunneries, and a hospital; but it was completely destroyed -by an earthquake in 1797, when with very few exceptions the whole -population perished, besides a much larger number in different parts of -the province, and perhaps no remains of these terrible convulsions of -nature are more awful than those at Riobamba. Some of the ruins of the -old town may be seen on the acclivities of the mountains on each side -the valley, where the new town now stands, separated from each other at -least a league and a half; and I was shewn some ruins on each side of -the valley which the inhabitants assured me had formed part of one -edifice, particularly the two steeples which had belonged to the -Franciscan church; these were on one side, and a portion of the body of -the church on the other. - -The face of the country was entirely changed, so much so, that after the -shock the surviving inhabitants, and those of the neighbouring -provinces, could not tell where their houses formerly stood, or where -their friends had formerly lived; mountains rose where cultivated -valleys had existed; the rivers disappeared or changed their course, and -plains usurped the situation of the mountains and ravines. The face of -the country was so completely altered, that no one knows the site of the -largest farm in the province, belonging to Zamora. - -The new town is built on a sandy plain, much below the level of the -surrounding elevated plains, which are called _paramos_; its climate is -very agreeable, and calculated to produce all kinds of European fruits, -but at present only a few trees are to be seen in the orchards or -gardens. I spent the evening that we remained at Riobamba with an old -Indian Cacique, the only person whom I ever saw who could knot and -interpret the meaning of the knots of the quipus. He boasted of being a -descendant of the _huasta puncay_, the ancient lord of the surrounding -country. He had an account of the peopling of that part of the territory -of Maynas, to the eastward of the Cordilleras; first by a colony of -puncay indians, who had become too numerous for the country which they -inhabited; and secondly by part of the tribe, after they had been routed -by Benalcasar, on the plain of Trocajas, where they opposed the entrance -of the Spaniards. He also had a tradition that, a short time before the -arrival of the Spaniards, a colony of monkeys crossed the mountains from -the westward, and infested the country, till they were all destroyed by -the indians; and that on the arrival of the first Spaniards, the natives -considered them as a migration of destructive animals, and determined to -prevent their entrance; but on being defeated, many left the country -and joined the colony in Maynas. My kind host assured me, that the -province of Riobamba contained extremely rich mines of gold and silver, -and that from undoubted tradition this province sent more silver and -gold for the purpose of ransoming Atahualpa than any other in the -kingdom. - -The province produces annually about four thousand quintals of sheep's -wool, which is manufactured into different kinds of cloth; its other -productions are wheat, maize, barley, potatoes, arracachas, and European -culinary vegetables. The capital is so situated, that it is not likely -ever to become a place of commercial notoriety. - -Our next stage brought us to the town of Ambato, the road we travelled -being very irregular and disagreeable, owing as well to the coldness of -the climate as to the difficult ascents and descents; but the view of -our resting place cheered us. As soon as we descended into the valley of -Ambato, we found a triumphal arch, covered with ripe strawberries; these -had been plucked with their stalks, and then fastened to cords of maguey -fibres; large bunches were hanging down from the top, and in different -parts festoons and other ornaments were tastefully displayed, and the -fragrance was peculiarly delightful. Here the Corregidor and other -gentlemen received us, and accompanied us to the town; part of the road -being confined with hedges of _tunas_, rosemary bushes, magueys, and -rose trees, with other vegetables belonging to the old and the new -world: the natives of such distant parts of the globe were here blended, -and were thriving in the most luxuriant manner. Before we arrived at the -town we passed under two other arches covered with strawberries, and for -more than a league the indian boys and girls danced along with us; -stopping till we had passed the arches, which they immediately pulled -down and stripped of their fruit, and then followed us running and -singing, with long wreaths of strawberries hanging about them. - -The town of Ambato is very pleasantly situated on one side of a river; -the churches and houses are generally neat and all new, for the old town -was completely demolished by the earthquake in 1797. Ambato is the -capital of the province of the same name, which for the greater part -enjoys a very mild climate and a most fertile soil. The crops of wheat, -maize, barley, quinua, and other pulse are extremely abundant, and of an -excellent quality. Many exquisite fruits are grown here, such as -apples, pears, peaches, apricots, and strawberries; these are produced -in great abundance; indeed many of the plains are covered with the -plants, and any person who wishes to purchase some, pays to the -proprietor of the ground, medio real, one-sixteenth of a dollar, and -either goes himself, or sends a person to gather them for him during a -whole day. Sugar cane thrives extremely well here, although it is four -years before it is ripe: remarkably fine sugar is made from it, superior -to any other that can be procured in this neighbourhood; but the -quantity is small. - -Cochineal, called here pilcay, is found in abundance in the leaves of -the cactus, and is collected by the natives for the purpose of dyeing. -The name given by the Spaniards to this valuable insect is _cochinilla_, -signifying a little pig; because it bears a resemblance to one, in the -same manner as in some parts of England it is supposed that the -woodlouse resembles a hog, and is hence called an "old sow." The cactus -on which the cochinilla feeds is not so prickly as the tuna, which in -the West Indies is called the prickly pear; the leaves are very green, -as well as the rind of the fruit, but the inside is of a most beautiful -red colour, similar to that of the cochinilla; it is very palatable, and -when eaten communicates its own colour to the urine. Little attention -is paid here to the cultivation of the cactus, or nopal, as it is called -in Mexico, or to the insect itself, consequently the quality of the dye -is not of the first rate; but were both properly attended to, there is -no doubt but the pilcay of Ambato would equal the cochinilla of Oaxaca. -Instead of killing the insect after taking it from the cactus, by -placing it in an earthen jar, and exposing it to a heat sufficiently -strong to destroy its vitality, and then preserving it in bags, as the -Mexican indians do, it is ground or bruised to the consistency of paste, -and often adulterated with a composition made of the juice of the fruit, -and flour; indeed the Mexican indians do the same, and they can imitate -the animal so perfectly, that it is difficult to discover the -counterfeit. The best method to detect it is, as an extensive dealer -informed me in Mexico, to put a quantity of cochinilla into warm water, -and let it remain twenty-four hours, then to stir it about, and strain -the liquor through a hair sieve sufficiently fine to prevent the passage -of the insect; allow the liquid to repose, and if any sediment be -deposited, the cochinilla contains a portion of counterfeit matter, the -quantity of which may be discovered by drying the sediment, and -comparing the weight to that of the cochinilla placed in infusion. - -Among the delicacies found at Ambato is excellent bread, equal to any in -the world, and several kinds of cakes, particularly one called -_allullas_, of which many are made and sent to Quito, Guayaquil, and -other places. All the necessary articles of food are reasonably cheap -and very good, owing to which, and to its agreeable climate, many -persons choose to make this their place of residence. - -In the year 1698 the town was destroyed by an eruption of Cotopaxi, -accompanied by one of Carguairaso, which ejected torrents of a hot muddy -matter in such quantities as to inundate several of the neighbouring -valleys. On the south side of the present town there still remains a -monument of this dreadful visitation; a large chasm is seen in the rock -five feet wide, and more than a league in length. - -On leaving Ambato, a short stage of five leagues brought us to -Llactacunga, or as it is commonly called Tacunga. On our entrance we -were shocked at the sight of heaps of ruins, caused by the earthquake in -1797; the churches and convents were quite demolished, and their remains -exist in the condition in which that frightful convulsion left them. -Tacunga is the capital of the province of the same name, and the -residence of the Corregidor; the plain on which it stands is evidently -of volcanic origin, or has been covered with volcanic productions thrown -from the neighbouring mountains. The town contains about three thousand -inhabitants; it has a parish church, and the remains of the convents of -San Francisco, Santo Domingo, San Augustin, and la Merced; of a college -of Jesuits, and a nunnery of barefooted Carmelite nuns; these after the -earthquake were removed to Quito. The churches and houses are built of -pumice stone, so light that it will float in water; it may be procured -in almost any part of the neighbourhood. Tacunga was completely ruined -by earthquakes, probably by shocks caused by the subterraneous -operations of the volcano of Cotopaxi, which is very near to the town; -these happened in 1698, when only one church out of nine, and four -houses out of seven hundred, were left standing; in the years 1743 and -1757 it was entirely demolished. - -In the earthquake of 1743, a Jesuit, Father Vallejo, was in the church -when the roof fell in; he remained under the ruins till the third day, -when he was taken out unhurt; but his mental faculties were so -completely deranged, that he had forgotten his own name, nor did he -recollect any of his most particular friends, and although a priest, -when his breviary was presented to him he could not read it, but -appeared quite childish; he afterwards resided in the college of Quito, -but his memory had so entirely abandoned him, that he never could -recollect any thing that had occurred to him before the earthquake, not -even his studies, and he was afterwards taught to read and to celebrate -a votive mass. This extraordinary instance of the effects produced by -fright is so well authenticated in Quito, that the fact appears to be -indubitable. - -On the same plain on which Tacunga stands are the remains of an indian -building, called the Inca's palace of Callo; but nothing except the -foundation can be traced. It appears to have consisted of a large court -and three extensive halls, forming three sides of an enclosure. It was -built of hard black stones, unlike to any now found in the -neighbourhood; owing to which, and to the similitude which the wrought -stone (having one convex surface) bears to that used in Peru, little -doubt exists of its having been built after the conquest of this country -by Huaina Capac. - -Excepting in some few valleys the climate of this province is cold; its -productions are wheat, barley, maize, and potatoes. Here is but little -fruit beside wild cherries, called _capulis_, which grow in great -abundance, and when ripe constitute the principal food of the indians, -to which we may add a few apples and some peaches. Nitre is found in -several parts of the province, and a considerable quantity is -manufactured. Some of the estates in this district are very large, and -abound in horned cattle, from which good butter and cheese are procured. - -We left Tacunga on the morning after our arrival, and remained at a farm -called Chisinchi, and the next day we arrived at a farm house, called la -Ensillada, belonging to the Marquis of Villa Orellana, where all the -authorities and persons of distinction of Quito were assembled to -compliment their President and Captain-general on his arrival. I shall -not give an account of the ceremonies observed on the following day, -because they in a great measure resembled those practised in Lima, on -the arrival of a Viceroy. - -It will be observed, that the towns we passed through on our route from -Guayaquil to Quito are generally the capitals of the provinces or -districts; there are other roads, but the different Corregidors or -Governors wished to honour their President by receiving him at their -respective houses; indeed, care has been taken to establish the capitals -on the road, for the accommodation both of travellers and of the -Governors themselves. - -The principal population of these provinces is composed of tributary -indians and mestisos, some few Spaniards, and white creoles. The natives -appear very industrious and hospitable; but I had not a good opportunity -of judging; however, this is the character which I have heard of them -from others. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - Quito, Foundation and Situation....Plasa Mayor....President's - Palace, Bishop's Palace and Cathedral....Parishes....Convents and - Public Buildings....Jesuit's College....Convent of San Francisco - ....San Diego....Santa Prisca....Santa Clara....University.... - College of San Luis....of San Fernando....Houses....Government.... - Nobility....Population....White Creoles....Occupation of and - Education....Character of....Mestisos, Persons, Character, - Employment....Indians....Persons, Character, Employment....Dress of - Creoles....Of Mestisos....Of Indians....Diversions, Bull-fight and - Masquerade....Dancing....Music....Religious Procession....Market, - Meat, Fruit and Vegetables....Spirituous Liquors....Ices, - Confectionary....Cheese....Trade and Commerce. - - -Quito was founded in the year 1534 by Sebastian Benalcasar, with the -dedicatory title of San Francisco; and in 1541 was created a city by the -Emperor Carlos V. It stands in a ravine; the mountain Pichincha being on -the west side, and a range of hills called Chimbacalle on the east; to -the south is the plain of Turupampa or Turubamba, between which and the -city is the small mountain el Panecillo, and to the north the plain of -Aņaquito, generally named the Egido. The streets, which run north and -south, are on a pretty level plain, but those which cross them rise -towards the skirts of Pichincha, and descend on the east side of the -city towards the small river of Machangara, which flows between the town -and the hills of Chimbacalle. - -Near the centre of the city is the plasa mayor, or principal square, -besides which are those of San Francisco, Santo Domingo, and the -Butchery, _Carniceria_. On the west side of the plasa mayor is the -palace of the President, a gloomy looking building, having an upper -story; it stands on an elevation of nine feet above the plasa, having a -terrace or area, with a stone wall in front, and two flights of steps to -ascend it. The palace contains the halls belonging to the royal -audience, the treasury, and the gaol, together with the apartments -occupied by the President, the offices of the secretaries, and the -archives. On the east side, opposite to the palace, is the corporation -house in the centre, having a very neat stone front, with private houses -on each side; it also has upper stories with balconies. On the north -side of the square is the Bishop's palace, with a stone arched entrance, -and some private houses, under the balconies of which is a capacious -piazza. On the opposite side appears the cathedral, a very plain -building, with a steeple at one corner; indeed, this edifice is mean, -compared to other temples in the city, and contains nothing worthy of -particular attention except some paintings, executed by natives of the -city, and an effigy of Saint Peter, the workmanship of Caspicara, an -indian of this place. In the centre of the square there is a handsome -brass fountain. - -Quito contains six parish churches: el Sagrario, belonging to the -cathedral, Santa Barbara, San Blas, San Sebastian, San Roque, San -Marcos, and Santa Prisca. Of these the Sagrario is a handsome stone -edifice, containing some good sculpture and paintings, executed by -natives. Here are also two convents of Dominican Friars, three of -Franciscan, two of Agustinian, and two Mercedarian; the college of the -ex-Jesuits, two nunneries of Carmelites, one of la Concepcion, one of -Santa Clara, and one of Santa Catalina, besides a house of recluse -females, called el Beaterio. There is an hospital under the care of the -Bethlemite Friars, and part of the Jesuits' college has been given to -those of the order of San Camilo. Each of these religious houses has a -church, and some of them one or more chapels attached to them; besides -which there are other public chapels, for most of the nobility have -private ones, _oratorios_, in their houses, and there are others -belonging to the colleges, the gaols, the penitentiary, the _hospicio_, -and other public places. - -Among the conventual buildings worthy of notice is the ex-Jesuits' -college. The front of the church is of stone, of most exquisite -workmanship; the Corinthian pillars on each side the central door are -entwined with wreaths of roses and lilies, so delicately executed, that -a person can introduce his hand between the wreath and the pillar; and -in many places pass it along the semi-circumference of the pillar before -the wreath comes in contact with it; these six pillars are thirteen feet -high, and each one is cut out of a single block of white freestone, of -which material the whole of the front is built. In two small niches are -placed the busts of St. Peter and St. Paul; underneath that of Peter are -the emblems of what he was before he became an Apostle; a small bark and -a net, the meshes and folds of which are detached from the principal -stone, on which several fishes are cut, one of which is quite detached -both from the net and the stone, is loose, and may be moved by -introducing a finger between the meshes of the net. Above the bust in -alto relievo there is a chair, mitre, crosier, and two keys. On the -opposite side, under the bust of Paul, in alto relievo, there is a wolf, -which having torn the skin from a lamb, except from the head, stands -with his fore feet on the mangled body, and holds one part of the skin -in his mouth, his head being raised and his ears pricked up, as if in -the attitude of listening; the whole of this emblematic representation -is most delicately touched, and evinces the chisel of a master. Above -the bust is a vase, standing on several books. The front also contains -in niches a statue of the Virgin Mary, and four of St. Ignacio Loyola, -the founder of the order; St. Francisco de Borja, St. Juan Francisco -Regis, and St. Francisco Xavier, the Apostle of the Indies; also two -busts, one of St. Luis Gonzaga, the other of St. Stanislaus Kotska, all -of whom belonged to the order. The whole of this beautifully delicate -piece of architecture was executed by indians, under the direction of -Father Sanches, a native of Quito; a work which will become more -estimable as it becomes more known to the lovers of the fine arts. - -The interior of the church is from a model of that of Jesus, at Rome; it -has a grave solemn appearance; the pillars are square, supporting an -unornamented groined roof, having a small cupola in the centre. The -interior of this temple was richly ornamented before the expulsion of -the order, but it has been despoiled of its most costly contents; among -these was a custodium, which is at present in the royal chapel of the -Escurial. One side of it was composed of diamonds set in highly polished -silver, the other of emeralds set in gold; although the whole only -measured two feet eight inches in height, it was valued at eight hundred -and seventy thousand dollars; on the bottom was MS. London, 1721. Of -this jewel there is a drawing and description in the sacristy of the -church. - -One of the entrances to the college is through a beautiful stone doorway -of most exquisite workmanship, of the Doric order. The library contains -upwards of twenty thousand volumes, among which are many very ancient -works. The books are placed in different compartments, having emblematic -designs over them, indicative of the science on which they treat; the -whole appearance is that of an amphitheatre, the books being placed so -as to form three ranges or stories. There is a gallery along the top of -the first and second, with a balustrade in front of each, and on the -tops of these there are desks to lay the books on, for the convenience -of reading, and inkstands for the purpose of making any extracts. One -great peculiarity respecting the room is, that although rats and mice -abound in every other part of the building, they have not entered this; -probably on account of some ingredient put into the mortar with which it -is plastered. In the refectory there is a good painting of the Marriage -at Canaan, but nearly all the most valuable pictures have been taken -away; a list of them only being left in the library. All the walls of -the building are of brick, of a very good quality; the door and window -frames are of freestone, as well as all the pillars and arches in the -cloisters. - -Part of this building has been given, with the church, to the Agonisante -Friars; part was converted into halls for the University, and the -remainder into barracks for the soldiers. In these premises the first -martyrs to South American Emancipation were sacrificed, on the 2d of -August, 1811. - -The convent of San Francisco is the largest I ever saw; the outer walls -are of brick, but all the cloisters are of stone; it stands at the foot -of the mountain Pichincha, and partly on some arches which cross a chasm -in the rock. One of the cloisters has a range of cells cut in the rock, -the roofs of which are level with the ground. The front of the church -stands on a terrace, twelve feet above the level of the plasa, from -which an elegant flight of stone steps leads to the door of the church; -the lower half of this flight having a projecting circular front, and -the upper being the reverse, in the middle is formed a large circular -area or landing place. The terrace is paved with flat stones of -different shapes and figures, but they are placed with such exquisite -art, that the interstices between them are scarcely perceptible. The -faįade of the church is of the Tuscan order; it is massy yet neat, and -is crowned with two handsome tower steeples. The interior of the church -is very magnificent; the body is in the figure of a cross, and over the -intersection is a handsome round tower or cupola. The high altar is -richly ornamented, and the presbitery being elevated five feet above the -floor of the church has a magnificent appearance; all religious duties -are performed here with the greatest solemnity. The choir above the -principal entrance is supported by an elliptical arch, which crosses the -central aisle of the church, besides two groined arches, which cross the -two laterel aisles. The roof is supported by a double row of slender -circular pillars, and is of beautiful panel work. In the choir -considerable labour has been bestowed in carving the stalls and the -reading desk. Here are two good organs, the one Italian, the other built -in Quito, by a native. In the church and sacristy are many beautiful -paintings and pieces of sculpture, by native artists, particularly an -effigy of San Francisco, painted by Miguel de Santiago; a Saint John, -and a Magdalen, by the same, and a full-length _Ecce Homo_, by -Samaniego. - -Adjoining the church are two chapels that open on the terrace, the one -is dedicated to San Buenaventura, the other was built at the expence of -an indian called Cantuņa, dedicated to Nuestra Seņora de los Dolores; in -this there is an image of the Virgin Mary, most exquisitely finished; -the name of the sculptor is unknown, but it is believed to have been -Caspicara, an indian of Quito. - -Although the churches and convents of Santo Domingo, San Augustin, and -la Merced, are elegantly built of stone and brickwork, and contain many -things worthy of notice, I shall not enter into a minute description of -them. The reclusion convent of San Diego, belonging to the Franciscans, -is with regard to its situation (being in a ravine in the suburbs of the -city) nearly hidden among the trees and rocks, and most romantically -retired; the strictest attention was paid to its building, and it -resembles in every point a sequestered hermitage, which renders it -worthy the notice of a stranger. It is perhaps the most perfect house -for religious retirement and contemplation in the new world. The -surrounding scenery of mountains traversing above the clouds; the -pleasing verdure of their skirts, while everlasting snows crown their -hoary heads; a meandering stream seen first to burst from the breast of -its rocky parent, and then to glide down the ravine in search of its -level, now and then interrupted in its course by abrupt turnings, -clusters of trees, or heaps of stones; it seems to say, man, thy course -is like mine, obstacles may intervene, and may appear for a while to -retard thy pilgrimage to the grave; but thy stay on earth is short, thy -life like my current, on the acclivity of this mountain, is continually -rushing towards the last goal. - -In this small convent the duties of a monastic life are strictly and -most religiously observed; the pale friars clad in grey sackcloth, their -sandals on their half bare feet, their habitual silence, all conspire to -confirm an opinion of the sanctity of the place, where men seem but to -live in preparation for another life. I have often paced these cloisters -on an evening, listening to the distant notes of the organ in the -church, and the solemn chaunt of the friars, with such reverential awe, -as I never experienced in any other place, but which, to be known, must -be practised--must be felt. - -In one of the principal streets there is a beautiful stone arch, -opposite to the Carmelite church, under which is an altar dedicated to -the Virgin Mary, where mass is celebrated every Saturday. This building, -which has the appearance of a triumphal arch, is called de la Reyna de -los Angeles. - -In the suburbs, on the north side of the city, is a small chapel, called -de la Vera Crus, and here was interred the body of Blasco Nuņes Vela, a -Knight of Santiago, who was the first person to whom the title of -Viceroy was granted. His conduct in Lima was so rigorous and -overbearing, that the royal audience deposed him, and embarked him at -Callao for Panama; but he persuaded the captain of the vessel to land -him at Tumbes, from whence he proceeded to Quito, and being pursued by -Gonsalo Pizarro to the plain of Aņaquito, adjoining the city, a battle -was fought in 1546, in which the Viceroy was slain, and his body was -conveyed to this chapel, where his remains were interred. - -Quito is the residence of the provincial prelates of the four orders of -San Francisco, Santo Domingo, San Augstin, and la Merced, all the -convents in the Presidency being subject to them. - -The church belonging to the nunnery of Santa Clara is remarkable for its -elliptical dome, the transverse axis being forty-one feet, the conjugate -twenty-six, and the spring of the arch nine feet two inches; it is built -of stone, and the inner surface is entirely plain. Seen from the floor -of the church, the dome or ceiling, which is thirty-six feet high, -appears almost flat; this beautiful piece of architecture was entirely -executed by indians in the year 1767. - -Quito has always been a place of celebrity for its great number of -students; it was called the monster with two heads, because it had two -Universities. That of San Gregorio Magno, under the superintendence of -the Jesuits, was founded in 1586, by Felipe II., and enriched in 1621 -with all the privileges granted to the celebrated university of -Salamanca, in Spain. The other, that of Santo Tomas de Aquino, is under -the superintendence of the order of Dominicans; but after the expulsion -of the Jesuits the two were united by a royal charter of Carlos III., -under the latter dedicatory title. The two colleges of San Buenaventura, -of the Franciscan order, and San Fulgencio, of the Augstin order, had -the privilege of conferring the degree of Doctor, but owing to several -irregularities, such as presenting the degree to favourites, or for -money, they have been deprived of this privilege. - -The meetings of the University are held in the college of the -ex-Jesuits; and here, unlike to the university of San Marcos, at Lima, -and many in Europe, all the professors have both to lecture and to -teach, their places not being titled sinecures. - -The professorships are two for theology, two for canons, two for -jurisprudence, and one for arts. There is one also for medicine, but no -professor. After a course of lectures the chair becomes vacant, and is -obtained by opposition and public disputation. All those who hold the -degree of doctor in the faculty of the vacant chair have an elective -vote, as well as all the professors in the triennial election of the -Rector of the University; but these elections are referred to the -President of the Government, who, as vice patron, has the privilege to -reject or confirm them. - -The degree of bachelor is granted to all those who undergo a public -examination, after studying arts one year; and that of master to those -who finish the course, and are approved in their examination. The -degree of doctor in the different faculties is obtained by a private -examination of the faculty, consisting of the rector of the university, -and four examiners in the faculty. The different degrees and faculties -are distinguished by the different colours of the badges, in the same -manner as in the university of Lima. - -The college of San Luis was endowed with the title of _Colegio mayor_, -by Felipe V., being the only one holding this title in South America; it -is also a royal college, and an ecclesiastical seminary. The habit is a -light brown _opa_, or gown, and a crimson _beca_, or shoulder band, -similar to those of Santo Toribio, at Lima; also a black cap, having -four pointed mitre shaped corners; the royal arms, in silver, are worn -on the breast on the left side, fastened to the beca. The college of San -Fernando has the title of a royal college; the habit is a black opa, and -a white beca, bearing the royal arms in gold, and a square cardinal's -cap. The former is under the immediate direction of a secular clergyman, -as rector, with a vice-rector and assistants; the latter under that of -the Dominicans, but both are under the patronage of the president of the -government. The college of San Luis has produced several eminent -literary characters, and several archbishops and bishops: Mexia, who in -the late cortes of Spain was called the American Cicero, was educated in -this college. - -The houses belonging to the principal inhabitants have generally an -upper story, but those belonging to the lower classes have only the -ground floor; they are for the most part built of adobes or stone, and -are tiled. The families of the higher classes reside in the upper story, -the lower being destined to the servants, and serve also as coach -houses, store-rooms, and other like purposes. The use of _estrados_, one -part of the floor raised above the rest, is as common here as at -Conception, and the females appear to be uneasy when seated on a chair. -The furniture, owing to a want of cabinet makers, is a mixture of -antique and modern pieces, just as they can be procured; yet some of the -houses, particularly that of the Count de San Jose, is most elegantly -furnished. - -A fashion prevails here of having a magnificent bed at one end of the -estrado; some are of crimson velvet, lined with satin, trimmed with -broad gold lace, and a deep gold fringe, with a cover of gold and silver -embroidery, on velvet; the sheets and pillow covers are trimmed with -fine Brussels lace, or equally fine lace made in Quito. Some of these -beds have a handsome painting beyond them, or in some cases a -transparency, which, when the curtains are withdrawn, has a very good -effect. - -The government of Quito and its province is vested in a president, a -royal audience, composed of a regent, four judges, _oidores_, and a -fiscal; this tribunal was first established in 1563; it was abolished in -1718, and re-established in 1739. The President enjoys all the -privileges of a Viceroy, except in the military department, in which he -is subject to the Viceroy of Santa Fé de Bogota. The corporation, -_cavildo_, is composed of two _Alcaldes ordinarios_, eight regidores, -and other officers, as at Lima. The Indians are subject to an _alcalde_, -mayor, who is an indian, elected by the city corporation; they have also -an advocate paid by the King, who is called the Protector of the -Indians. The royal treasury has an accomptant, a treasurer, a fiscal, -and minor officers. The _aduana_, custom-house, has an accomptant, -treasurer, and minor officers. Besides these are the tribunals of the -crusade, of the effects of those who die intestate, of posts, and of -temporalities. - -Quito was made a Bishop's see in 1545, and has been the residence of -twenty-two bishops (1810). The chapter, _cavildo ecclesiastico_, is -composed of the dean, archdeacon, chanter, treasurer, doctoral, -penitentiary, magistral, three canons, four prebends, and two -demi-prebends. - -Among the inhabitants of this city there are six marquises, three -counts, and one viscount, besides several families of distinguished -nobility. The family of the present Conde de Puņelrostre, a grandee of -the first class, who is a native of Quito, and the lineal descendants of -San Francisco de Borja, Duke of Gandia, also reside here. Quito is the -birth-place of one archbishop, eight bishops, six venerables, and -several persons of eminent literature, among whom, Don Pedro Maldonado -Sotomayor is worthy of notice. He was a profound mathematician, became -professor of the sciences at Paris, and was elected a fellow of the -Royal Society of London, in which city he died. Among those of note at -present (1810), Dr. Rodrigues and Dr. Arauco and la Seņora Doņa Mariana -Mateus de Ascasubi are esteemed literary characters. Quito was likewise -the birth-place of the unfortunate Atahualpa, the last Inca of Peru. - -The population of this city amounts to about seventy-five thousand -souls, and may be divided into three nearly equal parts: whites, -mestisos, and indians. Here are very few negroes or descendants of that -race, the indians being generally engaged as the household servants, in -which capacity they are called _huasi camas_. - -The principal employment of persons of rank is to visit their estates, -on which they generally reside during part of the year, particularly in -harvest time. The white inhabitants of moderately easy circumstances, -are farmers, merchants, or follow a literary career in the church, at -the bar, or are employed by the government. The young men belonging to -these classes are usually brought up at college, either as collegians or -day students, the education of these being gratis. Much judgment, as -well as vivacity, are displayed in the scholastic disputations, and -nothing is wanting but greater liberality in the professors, or rather a -removal of all ecclesiastical restrictions, with a better selection of -books and instruments, to enable the university of Quito to vie with -some of those of the most polished countries in Europe. If the young -men, educated in the colleges do not become such adepts in science as -might be expected, it is their misfortune, not their fault. The female -children of this class are generally educated under the eye of their -mothers, and except needle-work in its different branches, and the -management of household affairs; reading and writing are all they are -taught. For their skill in playing on the guitar and psaltery, of which -they are remarkably fond, they are principally indebted to their own -application, or to the direction of some female friend. - -The white inhabitants are generally of a moderate stature, of a lively -countenance, and fair complexion. Like the white natives of Chile they -are narrow across the chest, to which configuration the frequency of -pulmonic affections may perhaps be attributed. In society they are -loquacious, frank, and courteous, particularly the females; in their -houses remarkably hospitable; and to strangers they are kind to an -excess. The only trait in the character of a Quiteņo which militates in -any degree against his virtues, is a sort of fickleness or inconstancy; -they are indeed always ready for a change. The assertion of a friend I -found to be very true: "if," said he, "we have a penitential procession -in the morning, all attend in their most penitent attire, and put on -their gravest looks; if in the afternoon we have a bull fight, none are -absent; they will leave the circus in the evening to attend the sermon -of a missionary, and spend the remainder of the night at a dance or -card party." This instability was too visible, and often proved fatal -during the period of the first revolution in this city. - -The mestisos are in general well formed, often taller than the ordinary -size, robust, of a ruddy colour, and very agreeable countenance; they -partake of many of the virtues of the whites, but exceed them in their -vices; they are equally void of fixed determination, remarkably fond of -diversions, but surprisingly docile, kind and obliging, considering any -attention paid to them, by any person who ranks above them, as a mark of -real honour. Many of this class are employed as overseers, _mayordomos_, -on the farms and estates belonging to the nobility; others apply -themselves to painting and sculpture, in which some have excelled, and -many of the paintings of Miguel de Santiago have been classed in Italy -among the first productions of the pencil; at present (1810) the artists -in greatest repute are Samaniego, Cortes, and Solis. The mestisos also -apply themselves to mechanical trades, and excel as lapidaries, -jewellers, and silversmiths; but a lack of inventive genius is certainly -visible in all their performances, exact imitation being their principal -study, and in this they most assuredly succeed. - -The Indians, both men and women, are of a low stature, well -proportioned, very muscular, and strong; they bear a general resemblance -in their habits and customs to the indians in Peru, but they are under -more subjection to their masters. Those that are employed in the city -are household servants, in which capacity they are very useful, partly -on account of the equanimity of their temper and their blind submission -to their masters, and, if well treated, their attachment is great to the -house in which they live: a moderate recompense insures their constant -services. They are capable of supporting very heavy burthens; a man will -carry on his back during the greater part of the day a large earthen jar -holding from twelve to sixteen gallons of water; this jar rests on the -lower part of the back, while a leather thong fastened on each side the -jar is passed across the forehead of the carrier, who stoops in such a -manner, that the mouth of the jar is in a horizontal position, and the -whole weight rests on a line perpendicular to his right heel, on which -side it entirely presses. The indian has a kind of limping gait; he -trips on his left foot, and then throws himself on the right; owing to -which the right ancle is much thicker than the left, and this foot is -also much larger than the left. I examined an old indian servant -belonging to the palace, whose constant employment for several years had -been to carry water from the fountain in the plasa to the palace, and -found that the whole of the right side of the body was a great deal more -muscular than the left. - -The indian women who employ themselves in bringing from the surrounding -villages any produce to the market at Quito, carry their burthens in the -same manner as the men. I have often seen them so covered with a cargo -of brushwood, lucern, green barley, or other light bulky articles, that -the load seemed to move along of itself, the carrier being completely -enveloped. - -Many indians in the city become butchers, weavers, shoemakers, -bricklayers, &c.; but they are remarkably slothful and indolent, and -apply themselves more commonly to drunkenness than to any kind of -business. If you wish to employ one of them, he will demand part of the -money beforehand, with the excuse that he wants to purchase materials, -or some other indispensable requisite, but it is immediately spent in -chicha or rum, and it often becomes necessary to apprehend the rascal -(particularly among the shoemakers), and to send him to gaol, before you -can oblige him to fulfil his agreement. Some of the indians are -barbers, and manage the razor with the greatest dexterity; they may -easily be distinguished among the indian tradesmen, because the brass or -silver basin is always peeping from under their cloak. - -Many of the mestisos, or descendants of the Spanish creoles and indians, -are very fair; but the lowness of their foreheads, as well as their -being very narrow, betrays their connexion with the indian. The -quarterones, or descendants of a Spaniard and a mestiso, approach much -nearer to the white creole; but in these the size and shape of the -forehead, also a small rising about the middle of the nose, from whence -it forms a curve terminating in a point bending towards the upper lip, -and some dark stains in different parts of the body, particularly one -below the region of the kidneys, which is always the last that -disappears, though often not before the fourth or fifth generation, -bespeak a mixture of the indian race. The mothers of mestisos generally -begin very early to plat the hair of their children, dragging it back -from the forehead and temples in very small plats, for the purpose of -enlarging that feature. - -The common dress of the male Spaniards and creoles is similar to ours, -with the addition of a long red, white, or blue cloak. Their riding -costume is very pretty: over a jacket, trowsers, and boots, they wear -the white poncho, and over this a smaller one made of deer skin, having -the hairy side outward. A pair of overalls, made of the hides of two old -goats, are fastened round the waist, tied down the under side of the -thighs, and buttoned round the legs, so that the necks of the hides fall -over the feet; and as the hairy side is outwards, no rain can penetrate, -however long the person may be exposed to it; a large hat is covered -with leather, and to complete the costume, a large silk shawl is tied -round the neck. - -The ladies dress almost in the English style, except a few ancient -dames, who wear a large hoop:--when going to church all wear the hoop, -with a black velvet petticoat over it, sewed in small folds, and a broad -piece of English flannel over their heads, generally of a brown colour, -which they can fold over their faces so as to cover them. Jewellery is -much worn by the ladies, of which many have a large stock, principally -consisting of ear-rings, necklaces, rosaries, amulets, and bracelets of -diamonds, emeralds, topazes, or other precious gems, in complete sets, -for a mixture is considered a proof of poverty. On particular occasions, -it is not uncommon for a lady to be adorned with these kind of -ornaments to the amount of twenty or thirty thousand dollars. - -The dress of the mestisos is composed of a jacket and small-clothes, the -bottom of the drawers appearing below the knees; no stockings, and only -sometimes shoes; a long Spanish cloak of blue cloth, manufactured in the -country, and a black hat; these are called _llapangos_, a Quichua word -signifying barefooted. The females often wear a large hoop, and a gaudy -petticoat made of English flannel, red, pink, yellow, or pale blue, -ornamented with a profusion of ribbon, lace, fringe, and spangles, -wrought into a kind of arabesque about half a yard deep, near the bottom -of the coat, below which a broad white lace hangs, attached to an under -garment. The bodice is generally of brocade or tissue, or of embroidered -satin, laced very tight round the waist; the bosom and sleeves of this -are ornamented with white lace, ribbons, and spangles; a narrow shawl of -English flannel to correspond with the petticoat is thrown over the -shoulders; the head is uncovered, but ornamented with a fillet, ribbons, -and flowers, and the hair hangs in small tresses down the back. Like the -men the women seldom wear shoes or stockings, and it is considered a -trait in their beauty to have small white feet, and red heels, to -procure which cosmetics and rouge are often called in to lend their -assistance: this practice is very common among a certain description of -females. - -The lowest or poorest class of indian men and women wear a very scanty -and coarse apparel; the men have a pair of cotton drawers, hanging below -the knees; a garment somewhat like a wide sack, having an opening to -pass the head through, and two holes for the arms; this kind of tunic is -made of cotton or wool, it reaches almost to the knees, and is girt -round the waist. Sometimes a straw hat is worn, but they have more -frequently nothing but a leather strap round their heads, and never put -on either shoes or stockings. The women have only the species of tunic -called _anaco_, but it is longer than that of the men: over their -shoulders they wear a small kind of shawl, called _ichlla_, and this -constitutes their whole wardrobe, and is generally the only bed which -they possess. Their children immediately after their birth are swaddled -or bandaged in such a manner, from their shoulders to below their feet, -that they are deprived of all motion; the mother also frequently inserts -a wooden hook between the folds of the bandage, and hangs the child to -the wall, to the branch of a tree, or when she is travelling, to the -fore part of the saddle. - -Those indians who are in better circumstances clothe themselves in an -elegant manner; the men wear white drawers with lace or fringe at the -knees, they have a shirt and a small black poncho, laid in folds -crossways of the stuff, each about an inch broad, and made very stiff -with gum; when put on the two ends are drawn downwards, a little below -the waist, and the sides are fastened together at the corners: this -vestment is called a capisayo. Round the neck they wear a kind of -ruffle, of lace, about eight or ten inches deep, and hanging over the -shoulders like a tippet. The hat is generally of wool, having a low -crown and very broad skirts. The Caciques, alcaldes, some butchers and -barbers, also wear the long Spanish cloak, breeches over the drawers, -shoes, and large square silver buckles, but never any stockings. - -The women of the same class wear a white under-petticoat, called the -anaco, with broad lace at the bottom; over this they have a piece of -cloth, folded in the same manner as the capisayo of the men, except that -the folds are vertical; this is called the _chaupi anaco_, and is merely -fastened round the waist with a broad girdle of various colours, being -left open on the right side, and reaching only halfway down the legs, -the white lace hanging down almost to the ankles. Another piece of black -cloth, named the _lliglla_, folded in the same manner is put over the -shoulders; the two upper corners are brought together in front, and -fastened with two large silver or gold pins, ornamented on the top, and -called _tupus_; the folds being extended the lliglla covers the elbows; -the hair is all collected behind, and made into a thick roll, by winding -a fillet round it from near the head to the very ends of the hair; on -the top of the head they have a large bunch of ribbons, usually red. - -The most popular diversion in Quito is bull fighting; it is conducted in -a very different manner from what I witnessed in any other part of -America. No regular bull fighters are employed, but a universal -inclination in the inhabitants to become dexterous fighters seems to -prevail, not only among the men, but even among the women. I have seen -several evince the greatest skill and agility both in the plasa and in -the circus, but the generality of the persons who parade the circus are -masked. This peculiarity of a general masquerade is highly entertaining, -and the natives are as fond of the diversion as they are skilful and -happy in their inventions. - -A brief description of an afternoon's sport will convey an idea of one -trait in the character of the inhabitants of Quito, including all the -variety of classes. The moment that permission is obtained from the -President, the sides of the plasa are divided into lots, for the -different families of distinction, public officers, colleges, &c.; on -these are built galleries, supported on poles, and roofed, and some of -them are tastefully ornamented, each having a small private -dressing-room. - -About two o'clock in the afternoon, at which time the fight generally -begins, all the galleries are crowded, and from three to four thousand -men begin to parade the circus, in expectation of the _entradas_, or -entrance of the masks. Different parties previously agree to assemble at -some point, and enter the circus in procession; this is often done at -the four corners of the plasa, at the same time, and upwards of two -thousand persons frequently enter, accompanied with bands of music, -streamers, and fireworks. They first parade the circus in procession, -and then divide into groups, and wander about from one gallery to -another, saluting their friends and acquaintance, who are often -completely puzzled, not being able to distinguish who the individuals -are who are addressing them. At this time many of the nobility and -grave ecclesiastics disguise themselves, and leave their galleries to -mix in the motley group, and quiz their acquaintances in the galleries. -This part of the diversion generally lasts for more than an hour, and -after the whole is concluded, groups of masks parade the street with -music and flambeaux. The houses of the nobility and principal -inhabitants are open, and refreshments are placed for those groups which -choose to enter; this often produces much mirth, for the object of the -masked is to laugh at the unmasked, and the attempting to discover any -person who is thus covered by force, is considered extremely rude, and a -breach of the privilege of the mask. If attempted in the circus, or the -street, the assault would be immediately punished by the monkeys, who -would flog the aggressor with their long tails, the friars would strike -with their beads, and the muleteers with their whips. - -Some of the natives are remarkably skilful in making masks, and a person -may procure, at a few hours' notice, an exact representation of the face -of any individual in the city; whence it very frequently happens, that -people are seen double, one very gravely seated in a gallery, and a fac -simile dancing about the circus, to the annoyance of the original, and -the diversion of the spectators. - -When a bull enters the area, many of the _trages_, masks, retire to the -galleries, but many who are fond of the sport remain and enjoy the -amusement without being known to any one; for this purpose the dress -generally chosen is a pair of wide trowsers, and a short shirt, hanging -loose; these are generally of silk. The head and face are covered with a -green silk hood fitting close to the face, having glass or talk eyes; a -hat and gloves complete the dress of a _ranchero_. This is also the garb -generally worn by those persons who leave their galleries for a while to -parade the plasa and afterwards to return. - -During the time that a furious bull is scouring the circus, three or -four thousand individuals are employed in it, teazing the poor brute by -hissing, whistling, and shouting. The bull will often gallop along the -sides of the plasa, when the spectators very deliberately stand close to -each other in a line, forming what they call _una muralla de barrigas_, -a wall of bellies; and I have often stood in such a line, when a bull -has passed us at full speed, not unfrequently rubbing his side along the -_wall_; if the line be complete, the animal never stops to attack any -one, but if he find an opening, he pushes in, and causes a dreadful -uproar. - -The _aficionados_, both on foot and on horseback, vex the bull by -holding out to him a cloak, poncho, or umbrella, which, at the moment he -attacks it, the holder throws up and allows the bull to pass; this is -repeated so often that the animal will no longer advance, when some tame -oxen are driven into the circus, with which the baited bull retires, and -another enters the list. - -Masquerading is also common during the carnival, and the feast of -innocents; and I have been assured by very old people, that they never -heard of any robbery, or of any other depredations being committed -during these festivals, the whole mind of the people being entirely -engrossed by the sports, and in the study of something new. Many of the -nobility and the principal inhabitants are in possession of antique -dresses, two or three hundred years old; in these they make their -appearance on such occasions; besides which they have a sufficient stock -for the accommodation of their friends. - -Dancing is a favourite amusement of the natives, and some of their -dances are very pretty; they are in general imitations of the Spanish -_bolera_. Minuets are quite fashionable among the higher classes, and -country dances, reels, &c. also begin to be adopted. The mestisos are -particularly fond of music, and the small mountain called the -_Panecillo_ is in the summer season frequently the evening resort of -forty or fifty young men, with fifes, guitars, and psalteries, which -they play till midnight. Nothing can exceed the sweetness of some of -their _tristes_, or melancholy airs, during the quiet of the evening, -when numbers of the inhabitants sit in their balconies and listen to the -fleeting sounds as they are wafted along by the evening breeze. After -playing till midnight, the young men frequently parade the streets till -day-break, serenading under the balconies of the principal inhabitants. - -One of the religious processions at Quito was so novel to me, and -altogether so strange, that I cannot forbear to describe it. At a small -village, about a league from the city, there is an image of the Virgin -Mary, which the pious inhabitants have been induced to believe protected -them against the destructive fury of the earthquakes that ruined -Riobamba and Tacunga; in consequence of which, they voted two annual -feasts to the image, to be celebrated in the cathedral of the city. -Application was made to the court at Madrid, that the procession might -be solemnized with the assistance of the whole military force; the royal -grant exceeded the humble request, for his Catholic Majesty conferred on -the Virgin of Guapulo the commission of a captain-general of his armies, -with a right to the enjoyment of all the pay and privileges during the -ten days' stay in Quito; consequently, on the day of her approach to the -city, the whole military force line the streets, present their arms, and -the drums beat a march. - -The virgin is brought to the city on a stand, enclosed with crimson -velvet curtains, carried on the shoulders of some of the principal -inhabitants, preceded by part of the chapter, and members of the -corporation. The image, being on duty, becomes a captain-general, and -appears in full uniform; on the arms two sleeves are drawn, bearing the -embroidery of her rank; on her head is placed a gold laced cocked hat, -with a red cockade and feather, and in her hand she holds the _baton_, -or insignia of command. The image of the infant Jesus participates in -the honours; a gold laced hat, small gold sword, and red cloak, adorn -the young hero, and in this stile they are carried to the cathedral, -where they are arrayed in their customary robes, but the baton is left -in the hand of the Virgin till she leaves the city. Although loath to -ridicule any thing that may, however distant, be connected with -religion, even the ceremonious part of it, I could never view this in -any other light than an ecclesiastical puppet show, a disgraceful piece -of mummery. - -Quito is also famous for many other religious processions, and these -times present a very favourable opportunity for seeing the best works -both of the pencil and the chisel, particularly at the procession of -Corpus Christi, when several altars are erected in the plasa mayor, on -which are displayed all the curiosities that the natives can collect. - -The market of Quito is well provided with good beef, mutton, pork, and -poultry, the prices of which are low. The beef is supplied by the -principal landholders, who are bound to kill a stipulated number of fat -oxen daily throughout the year, and to sell the beef at an appointed -price; for this purpose there is a public butchery, where an officer -belonging to the corporation attends to see that the agreement is -properly fulfilled. - -The vegetable and fruit markets are remarkably abundant; the climates -are so various in the neighbourhood of the city, (indeed, it may be -said, that they vary at every step we take) that the vegetables and -fruits of Europe grow among those of the tropics. From the valleys and -_yungas_, sides of mountains, are brought camotes, yucas, aracachas, -palemettos, bananas, pine-apples, oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, -paltas, chirimoyas, guavas, granadillas; and from the cooler parts they -bring potatoes, cabbages, beets, apples, pears, guinds, peaches, -apricots, melons, strawberries, as well as various sallads and pot -herbs: maize and other pulse are grown in the different climates, and -many of the vegetables and esculents may be had in perfection during the -whole year. Several kinds of bread are brought to market at certain -hours of the day, for the purpose of serving whilst quite fresh at the -meals of the inhabitants: it is always made into small loaves, or rather -cakes. After twelve o'clock the bread begins to fall in price; and at -five o'clock six cakes may be bought for the same money that three of -the same kind would have cost in the morning: this arises from the -custom of never eating old bread. Many varieties of sweet cakes are also -sold in the market, some of which are particularly delicate. - -The spirits usually drunk in Quito are rum and a small quantity of -brandy: from the rum, which is distilled here, many liqueurs are made. -It has probably been observed, that rum is not so noxious to the health -of the Quiteņos as it is supposed to be to that of the Peruvians; but, -on the contrary, brandy is here considered by the careful government to -be possessed of deleterious qualities. The truth is, that the distilling -of rum is a royal monopoly in Quito; whereas that of brandy is not so in -Peru: thus, for the purpose of increasing the consumption of rum, which -augments the royal revenue, brandy is one of the _pisco_ or -_aguardiente_, contraband articles. Among the lower classes the use of -chicha made of maize is very common, and its intoxicating qualities are -but too visible among the indians, who are passionately fond of it: for -the purpose of stimulating a species of thirst or forcing the appetite, -they eat very large quantities of capsicum, aji: it is not uncommon, -indeed, for an indian to make a meal of twenty or thirty pods of -capsicum, a little salt, a piece of bread, and two or three quarts of -chicha. - -Quito is famous for the delicate ices and iced beverages which are made -by the inhabitants; a service of ices, when a dinner or supper is given -to a large party, is considered the greatest ornament of the table. -These ices are generally prepared by the nuns, who, for the purpose, -have pewter moulds, made to imitate several kinds of fruit; these are in -two pieces, which are first united with wax and tied together: at a -small aperture at one end the liquor is poured in, a fluid prepared from -the juice of the fruit which the mould is made to imitate; when full, -the hole is closed with wax, and the mould is put into a heap of broken -ice mixed with salt, and allowed to remain till the liquor is congealed; -the two parts of the mould are then separated, and the solid contents -placed on a dish: thus a service of ices is made to consist of perfect -imitations of pine-apples, oranges, melons, figs, and other fruits. When -milk or cream is iced it is poured into a mould formed like a cheese. -These imitations, placed on dishes, and ornamented with leaves, &c. are -with difficulty distinguished from fruit, and when fruit is mixed with -them, I have frequently seen strangers completely deceived. - -The natives of Quito are very skilful in cooking some of the produce of -the country; so much so, that I have often been assured by them, that -forty-six different kinds of cakes and dishes are made of maize, or at -least in which maize is the principal ingredient: of potatoes thirty-two -are made in the same manner, without counting many others, in which -maize or potatoes are mixed. - -Some of the confectionary is very delicate, particularly dry or candied -sweetmeats. These are often made of the pulp or jelly of different -fruits, in imitation of those fruits, and not larger than hazel nuts: -thus oranges, lemons, and limes are often taken from the trees when -about the size of nuts, and delicately preserved and candied over. The -same kinds of fruit are also taken when ripe, and the rinds preserved; -they are filled with the flowers, after they have been preserved, and -the whole candied over, and put into a dry place, where they may be kept -for a long time. What is justly considered a master piece of -confectionary in Quito is to preserve the rind of a very large citron, -then to fill it with small candied oranges, lemons, limes, figs, &c., -and afterwards to candy the outside of the citron. - -The enormous quantity of cheese consumed in this city almost exceeds -belief, the cost price not being less than from eighty to ninety -thousand dollars a year. The estimate is made as to the price, because -cheese, like many other commodities, is bought by the lump, not by the -weight; and the price seldom varies. I have weighed several cheeses that -cost a dollar each, and found them to weigh on an average seven or -eight pounds when fresh (for in this state the cheese is always brought -to market), so that the quantity consumed annually amounts to about six -hundred and forty thousand pounds weight, or upwards of two hundred and -eighty five tons. This may partly be accounted for from the number of -dishes made with potatoes, pumpkins, gourds, maize, wheat, and many -other kinds of vegetables and pulse mixed with cheese. As the custom of -eating toasted cheese is prevalent, a whole one, weighing from three to -four pounds, is generally placed on the tables of wealthy citizens both -at breakfast and supper; and many of these being land proprietors and -farmers derive the greater part of the profits of their farms from the -cheese which is made on them. - -The trade or commerce of Quito may be very properly divided into two -classes--that of home manufactures, and that of foreign. Indeed, it is -thus divided by the tradesmen and merchants, the shops and stores -generally containing only one kind of goods. The home made consist of -cotton and woollen cloths, baizes, sugars, flannels, ponchos, stockings, -laces, dyeing materials, thread, tapes, needles, and other minor -articles. The stock of foreign articles is composed of all kinds of -European manufactured goods, also iron, steel, and some other raw -materials. - -The European manufactures most in demand are English broad cloths, -kerseymeres, coloured broad flannels, calicoes, plain and printed -dimities, muslins, stockings, velveteens; Irish linens in imitation of -German _platillas_; fine, in imitation of French lawn; all kinds of -hardware and cutlery, and foreign silk velvets, satins, silks, &c. as -well as English ribbons and silks. Like the Lima market, the articles -should be of a good quality, and of the newest fashion--the more this -point is attended to the better the market will be found. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - Visit of the Academicians to Quito in 1736....Inscription left - by....Climate of Quito....View of Mountains at....Description of - Chimboraso....Of Cayambe urcu....Of Antisana....Of Cotopaxi....Of - Pichincha....Of El Altar....Description of the fertility of the - Valleys....Mines....Ruins of Temples, Palaces, and Fortified - Places....Account of the Indians....Of Commerce. - - -In 1736 the academy of sciences at Paris sent M. Luis Godin, M. Peter -Bouguer, M. Charles de la Condamine and others to Quito, in order to -make some astronomical and physical observations. They were accompanied, -by order of the Spanish Court, by Don Jorge Juan, and Don Antonio de -Ulloa. Having finished their operations they left the following -inscription in marble on the wall of the church belonging to the -ex-Jesuits:-- - - - Observationibus Ludovici Godin, Petri Bouguer, Caroli Mariæ de la - Condamine á Regia Parasiensi Scientiarum Academia, inventa sunt - Quiti latitudo hujusce templiaustralis grad. 0 min. 3 sec. 18. - longitudo occidentalis ab observatorio Regio grad. 81, min. 22. - Declinatio acus magneticæ ā borea ad orientem, exeunte anno 1736 - grad. 8, min. 45; anno 1742 grad. 8, min. 20. Inclinatio ejusdem - infra orizontem parte boreali, conchoe anno 1739 grad. 12. Quiti - 1741 grad. 15. Altitudines supra libellam maris geometrice collectæ - in exapedis Parisiensibus spectabiliorum nive perenni hujus - provinciæ montium quorum plerique flammas evomuerunt--Cota-cache - 2567, Cayambur 3028, Antisana 3016, Cotopaxi 2952, Tunguragua 2623, - Sangay etiam nunc ardentis 2678, Chimboraso 3220, Ilinisa 2717, - Soli Quitensis in foro majori 1462, Crucis in proximo Pichincha - montis vertice conspicuæ 2042, acutioris ac lapidei cacuminis nive - plerumque operti 2432, ut et nivis infimæ permanentis in montibus - nivosis: media elevatio mercurii in barometro suspensi in Zona - Torrida, eaque parum variabilis in ora maritima pollicum 28. - linearum 0. Quiti poll. 20. lin. 0ž in Pichinche ad crucem poll. - 17. lin. 7. ad nivem poll. 16. lin. 0 spiritus vini qui in - thermometro Reaumuriano ā partibus 1000 incipiente gelu ad 1080 - partes in aqua fervente intumescit: dilatio Quiti ā partibus 1008 - ad partes 1018 juxta mare a 1017 ad 1029 in fastigio Pichinche ā - 995 ad 1012. Soni velocitatis unius minuti secundi intervalo - hæxapedarum 175. Penduli simplicis equinoctialis, unius minuti - secundi temporis medii in altitudine soli Quitensis archetypus. - - {-------------------------} - {-------------------------} - {-------------------------} - (Mensuruæ naturalis exemplar, utinam et - universalis) - - Aqualis 5079/10000 Hexapedæ, seu pedibus 3 pollicibus 0. lineis - 6-83/100 major in proximæ maris littore 27/100 lin. minor in apice - Pichinche 16/100 lin. Refractio Astronomica Orizontalis sub - Æquatore media, juxta mare 27 min. ad nivem in Chimboraso 19ī 51īī; - ex qua et aliis observatis Quiti 22ī 50īī. Limborum inferiorum - Solis in Tropicis, Dec. 1736, et Junii 1737, distantia instrumento - dodecapedalia mensurata grad. 47, min. 28, sec. 36, ex qua positis - diametris Solis min. 32, sec. 37, et 31ī 33īī. Refractione in 66, - grad. altitudinis 0ī 15īī. Parallaxi vero 4ī 10īī eruiter - obliquitas Eclipticæ, circa Equinoctium Martii 1737, grad. 23, min. - 28, sec. 28. Stellæ triem in Baltheo Orionis mediæ (Bayero E.) - Declinatio Australis Julio 1737 grad. 1, min. 23, sec. 40. Ex arcu - graduum plusquam trium reipsa dimenso gradus Meridiani, seu - latitudinis primus, ad libellam maris reductus Hexap. 36650. Quorum - memoriam ad Physices, Astronomiæ Geographiæ Nautice incrementa hoc - marmore parieti Templi Colegii Maximii Quitensis Soc. Jesu affixo, - hujus et posteri Ævi utilitati V. D. C. Spissimi Observatories Anno - Christi 1742. - - -M. de la Condamine fixed his meridian on the terrace of the college; but -this line being traced on brick became effaced, and in 1766 another was -substituted on stone, and a Latin inscription on marble was placed on -the wall near to it. - -The climate of Quito is remarkably agreeable, and almost invariable; the -indication of winter is the fall of rain, and the absence of rain -constitutes the summer season. During the months of December, January, -February, and March it generally rains every afternoon; usually -beginning at half-past one o'clock and continuing till five. A rainy or -even a cloudy morning is seldom seen at Quito, and even during the rainy -season the evenings and mornings are most beautiful. - -The temperature is so benign, that vegetation never ceases; hence this -city is called the evergreen Quito, _siempre verde_ Quito; it is also -called the everlasting spring, _eterna primavera_; both which epithets -it may be said to deserve, for the native trees are all evergreens, and -the fields on the slopes of the mountains never lose their verdure. - -From the terrace of the government palace there is one of the most -enchanting prospects that human eye ever witnessed, or nature ever -exhibited. Looking to the south, and glancing along towards the north, -eleven mountains covered with perpetual snow present themselves, their -bases apparently resting on the verdant hills that surround the city, -and their heads piercing the blue arch of heaven, while the clouds hover -midway down them, or seem to crouch at their feet. Among these, the most -lofty are Cayambe urcu, Imbaburu, Ilinisa, Antisana, Chimboraso, and the -beautifully magnificent Cotopaxi, crowned with its volcano, which during -the greater part of the three years that I was a resident in this part -of America was continually ejecting either smoke or flames, not -observable during the day, but particularly visible in the morning and -evening. - -Having mentioned these mountains, I shall give a brief description of -the most remarkable in the province of Quito, being the most elevated in -the new world, and till the discovery of the Himmalah mountains, -considered the highest on the globe. - -Chimboraso is the "Giant of the Andes," the hoary head of which may be -seen from the mouth of the Guayaquil river, a distance of not less than -one hundred and eighty miles; and here the view is certainly more -imposing than when we observe it from the plains extended at its foot: -seen from that spot it looks like an enormous semi-transparent dome, -defined by the deep azure of the sky; at the same time it cannot be -mistaken for a cloud, on account of its solid appearance and well -defined edges, so different from the aspect of those collections of -vapours. The height of this enormous mass, from the level of the sea, -was ascertained by M. de Humboldt to be twenty-two thousand four hundred -and forty feet. Its height from the road leading to Quito, which passes -along the plain at the foot of the mountain called _el paramo_, or _el -pajonal_, is twelve thousand one hundred and eighty feet, and five -thousand four hundred and sixteen feet above the limit of perpetual -snow, under the scorching sun of the equator, and sixteen thousand eight -hundred and ninety-two above what is computed to be the limit in -England. - -M. de Humboldt has remarked, that "mountains which would astonish us by -their height, if they were placed near the sea shore, seem to be but -hills when they rise from the ridge of the Cordilleras." Without -scarcely daring to contradict this most scientific traveller, I cannot -avoid expressing my own feelings when I viewed Chimboraso, even at its -foot. Perhaps my ideas of grandeur are not correct, so that I must -appeal to persons of more extensive conceptions, to know whether a mass -rising twelve thousand one hundred and eighty feet above the head of an -observer can be considered a "hill!" In the comprehensive mind of a -philosopher, the base, not only of this mountain, but the whole range of -the Andes, may be a matter not worthy of attention, and consequently -detached parts of it must form minor objects. I viewed Chimboraso with -sensations of inexpressible delight, mixed with a kind of veneration -perhaps more strongly impressed, from the consideration, that it was -considered the highest mountain on the globe, for at that time (1809) I -had not heard it questioned, and much less denied. A kind of reverential -awe crept over me as I stood and gazed on this majestic mass, such as -may be more easily imagined than described. - -The figure of Chimboraso resembles a truncated cone, with a spherical -summit. From the foot of the snow its sides are covered with a calcined -matter, resembling white sand; and although no tradition exists of its -active volcanic state, yet the issuing of some streams of hot water from -the north side of it seems to warrant that it is a volcano, or that it -possesses volcanic properties; and the circular summit of the mountain -has the appearance "of those paps without craters, which the elastic -force of the vapours swells up in regions where the hollow crust of the -globe is mined by subterraneous fires." - -From the melting of the ice, and perhaps with the assistance of some -undiscovered springs on the sides of this mountain, the rivers of -Huaranda, Huando, and Machala, have their origin. - -Cayambe urcu, Cayambe mountain, is the loftiest of the Cordilleras, -excepting Chimboraso; its elevation above the level of the sea is -nineteen thousand three hundred and sixty feet, and above that of the -plasa mayor of Quito nine thousand one hundred and eighteen. It bears -some resemblance to Chimboraso in its dome-shaped summit, and, seen from -Quito, it is the most majestic. The beauty of the appearance of Cayambe -urcu is rendered more interesting at sunset, on a clear evening; Huahua -Pichincha, little Pichincha, being due west of it, the shadow of this -may be observed gradually covering the foreground of that, and a few -seconds before the sun dips in the horizon, the shadow ascends the -mountain with great rapidity, and finally, in a moment, the whole is -dissolved in darkness. An impression is made on the mind of the -observer, that this is caused by an overshadowing, and he remains gazing -in expectation that the mountains will _again emerge_; but the very -short duration of twilight soon convinces him that he looks in vain; and -when he turns his eyes from Cayambe to search for the other mountains, -they are gone also. This colossal mountain is crossed on its summit by -the equator, and were it not overtopped by its neighbour Chimboraso, it -would appear as if destined by the hand of nature to be a monumental -division of the two hemispheres. Cayambe is a volcano; but its crater -has never been examined, nor are there any traditions of its being in a -state of injurious activity. At the foot there are several vestiges of -mines, said to have been very rich when worked by the indians before the -conquest of the country, but at present they are entirely abandoned. The -rivers which have their origin in the north and west sides of Cayambe -empty themselves by the Esmeraldas and Mira into the Pacific; the others -into the Atlantic, by the Maraņon. - -Antisana is a porphyritic mountain; its summit is nineteen thousand one -hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, on which there is -the crater of a volcano: near to the foot of this mountain is the small -village of Antisana, situated at the amazing height of thirteen thousand -five hundred feet above the sea; it is considered to be the highest -inhabited spot on the surface of the globe. - -Seen from Quito, Cotopaxi is the most beautiful mountain in the whole -range, on account of its shape, being that of a truncated cone, having a -flat summit; it is eighteen thousand eight hundred and ninety feet above -the level of the sea, and, as already observed, its volcano, the crater -opening on the top of the mountain, is in constant activity, appearing -sometimes in the morning and evening like a colossal beacon: the flame -rises in such a manner, that its light is reflected from the icy coating -of the mountain. - -A faint idea of the majestic Cotopaxi may be conveyed, if we consider -that it is nearly as high above the level of the sea as Mount Vesuvius -would be were it placed on the top of Mont Blanc, the highest point of -the Alps--or if the highest volcano in the old world, Etna, were placed -on the top of Bennevis, the highest mountain in Scotland, and both on -the top of Snowdon, the loftiest mountain in Great Britain; the crater -of Etna would not then be on a level with that of Cotopaxi. - -Cotopaxi is the most dreadful volcano in the province of Quito, and its -ravages are spoken of by the inhabitants with horror. In 1738 the flame -which rose from the crater ascended to the height of three thousand feet -above the summit of the mountain: in 1743 its roarings were heard at the -distance of two hundred leagues, at Hurda; at Guayaquil, a distance of -fifty-two leagues, they were mistaken for loud peals of thunder. This -was the first eruption after the arrival of the Spaniards in this part -of America; but a short time before their appearance, when Pedro -Alvarado was on his march from Punto Viejo, the first eruption took -place, at which time a huge mass of stone was ejected, which the natives -call the head of the Inca, _cabesa del Inca_. The traditional record of -the indians is, that this explosion and ejectment happened on the very -day on which Atahualpa was strangled at Caxamarca, for which reason it -received the name which it now bears. - -Before the second eruption, in 1743, a rumbling subterraneous noise was -heard, which continued to increase for five or six days, when an -eruption took place on the summit, and three other apertures or craters -made their appearance about the middle of the acclivity, the whole -mountain being covered with snow till the moment that the eruption took -place, when the entire frozen mass was instantaneously melted by the -streams of melted lava, excepting some huge heaps that were thrown into -the air, where they melted amid the flames of the ignited matter that -was ejected. The melted snow overflowed the country lying between -Cotopaxi and Tacunga, a distance of five leagues, destroying the houses, -inhabitants, and cattle. The river of Tacunga was too limited to carry -off the enormous quantity of matter which flowed into it, and part of -the town and property on the adjacent country was destroyed. This -dreadful scene of devastation continued for three days, and the country -at the foot of the mountain, and extending more than three leagues on -each side, was covered with cinders and scoria. During this time of -terror and dismay to the people of Quito, Tacunga, Ambato, Riobamba, and -the surrounding villages, the roaring of the volcano seemed to increase; -but on the fifth day all was quiet; the fire and the smoke disappeared, -and the terrified inhabitants hoped that all the combustible matter was -consumed, and that they should, consequently, thenceforward live -securely from the fury of this devastating enemy. - -In the month of May, 1774, the flames forced their passage through the -sides of the mountain, and continued to burn till November, when an -eruption, equal to that of the preceding year took place, and the -inhabitants of the surrounding towns were afraid that utter ruin awaited -both them and the whole country. At this eruption enormous quantities of -ashes were thrown out, which mixing with the water and mud darkened the -current of the Maraņon to the distance of more than a hundred leagues; -so that the Jesuit missionaries, seeing not only that the colour of the -water was changed, but that many dead bodies, drowned animals, pieces of -furniture, and wrecks of houses floated down the stream, and hearing -also the loud roaring of the volcano, sent expresses to inquire the fate -of their countrymen, imagining that something more dreadful had occurred -than what had really taken place. - -On the 4th of April, 1768, another explosion took place; but nothing -except ashes were thrown or carried to any considerable distance; the -latter were ejected in such quantities, that the sun was completely -hidden, and from half past two o'clock till the following morning the -inhabitants of the neighbouring towns and villages were obliged to light -candles and to use lanterns in the streets. - -In January, 1803, an explosion took place, after all external -appearances of the existence of a volcano, or that either fire, smoke or -vapour had ceased to be visible for more than twenty years. In one night -the activity of the subterraneous fires became so powerful, that the -surface of the mountain was heated to such a degree as to melt the whole -of the immense quantity of ice and snow which covered it to an -unfathomable depth, and to a height, from the limit of perpetual snow, -of not less than four thousand two hundred feet. At sunrise on the -following morning the whole cone was entirely deprived of its customary -covering, and of its dark brown appearance. At this time the damage -sustained was not so considerable as at the former explosions; nothing -was injured except some houses and cattle that were washed away by the -sudden increase of the waters. M. de Humboldt says, that he heard the -tremendous noise of the volcano, like continued discharges of a battery, -at Guayaquil, fifty-two leagues in a straight line from the crater; it -was heard also even on the Pacific Ocean to the south west of the island -of Puna. - -From the east side of Cotopaxi the river Napo takes it rise; and from -the south the Cotuche and Alagues, which afterwards unite and enter the -Maraņon; to the north rises the river del Pedregal, which after -receiving some minor streams joins the Esmeraldas, which empties itself -into the Pacific Ocean. - -Carguairaso is a volcano, the summit of which is fourteen thousand seven -hundred feet above the level of the sea; it is situated in the province -of Riobamba. In the year 1698 it ejected such enormous quantities of -water, mud and stones as to destroy the crops in the neighbouring -fields, and the lives of many thousands of the inhabitants. This -dreadful calamity was also accompanied by one of the most alarming -earthquakes that had been felt in this part of South America. - -To the westward of Quito is the volcano of Pichincha, on the eastern -skirt of which the city is built. The mountain is elevated fifteen -thousand nine hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea. The -greatest explosions of this volcano have been in the years 1535, 1575, -1660, and 1690; in the last of which very fine ashes continued to fall -in Quito for twelve days; the air was darkened by them, and the streets -were covered more than two feet thick. The crater of this volcano opens -to the westward, so that Quito must suffer from it so long as this -continues to be the only crater, for the ashes are blown over the top of -the mountain by a westerly wind; but the ravages committed by it are -generally limited to the province of Esmeraldas. - -In 1811 I observed the leaves of the plantains covered with very fine -ashes, which had been ejected from Pichincha, and carried to the -distance of thirty-one leagues. - -The summit of this mountain is called Rucu Pichincha, old Pichincha; it -is composed of several spire-shaped rocks, rising above the snow, at the -back of the crater; these are seen from Mindo, a small village situated -near the road which I re-explored, between Quito and Esmeraldas. -Detached from this there is the top of another mountain, connected with -the same base, and called Huahna Pichincha, young Pichincha; its head is -rocky, and it is the highest point that the Spanish and French -academicians arrived at during their operations. - -El Altar, formerly called by the indians Caparurar, and which name it -still retains among the natives, when speaking of it in Quichua, -signifying the snow mountain, was anciently higher than Chimboraso is at -present; but the volcano having consumed the walls of the crater till -they were incapable of supporting their own weight, the top fell in. -This was the case with that of Carguairaso in 1698; and the ruins of the -two volcanos bear a strong similarity in their pointed ridges, their -spire-like rocks, and leaning directions; they appear as if falling into -decayed heaps. - -I have only mentioned the most remarkable of the mountains visible at -the city of Quito; but besides these are the following in different -parts of the kingdom: - - - MOUNTAINS. - - Aritahua - Asuay - Caxanuma - Cotacache - Guacaya - Sinchulagua - Quelendana - Rumi nahui - Supay urcu - Tolonta - Tunguragua - Uritusinga - Yana urcu - Imbaburu. - - VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS. - - Cumbal - Sangay - Sara-urcu. - - -Many of the ravines, quebradas, and valleys in this province have a -very warm atmosphere, which in some is so very hot and unwholesome that -they are uninhabitable. Other valleys which are more elevated are -remarkably healthy, uncommonly productive, and extremely delightful as -places of residence. One of these, called Pomasqui, is about five -leagues from Quito, where sugar-cane arrives at a state of maturity in -three years, and where many of the intertropical fruits come to their -greatest perfection. This luxury is enhanced by the proximity of other -situations possessing all the variety of climates known in the world: in -the course of three hours a person may experience the rigidity of the -poles, the oppressive heat of the equator, and all the intermediate -temperatures. A peon will ascend a mountain in the morning, and return -with ice so early in the day as to afford time to allow him to bring -before sunset the luscious pine-apple, the banana, and the chirimoya, to -where the apple, peach, and pear grow and ripen. There the botanist at -one glance would compass the whole of the vegetable creation, and in one -day's excursion would range from the palm to the region where vegetation -becomes extinct. - -These valleys are principally under cultivation, and bless the -husbandman with a continued succession of crops; for the uninterrupted -sameness of the climate in any spot is such as to preclude the plant as -well as the fruit from being damaged by sudden changes in the -temperature of the atmosphere, changes which are in other countries so -detrimental to the health of the vegetable world. The fertility of some -of these valleys exceeds all credibility, and the veracity of the -description would be doubted, did not the knowledge of their localities -and the universal descriptions of the equability and benignity of these -climates ensure the probability. An European is astonished on his first -arrival here to see the plough and the sickle, the sower and the -thrashing-floor, at the same time in equal requisition:--to see at one -step a herb fading through age, and at the next one of the same kind -springing up--one flower decayed and drooping, and its sister unfolding -her beauties to the sun--some fruits inviting the hand to pluck them, -and others in succession beginning to shew their ripeness--others can -scarcely be distinguished from the colour of the leaves which shade -them, while the opening blossoms ensure a continuation. Nothing can be -more beautiful than to stand on an eminence and observe the different -gradations of the vegetable world, from the half-unfolded blade just -springing from the earth, to the ripe harvest yellowing in the sun and -gently waving with the breeze. - -An enumeration of the different vegetable productions of this province -would be useless; it will be sufficient to observe, that grain, pulse, -fruits, esculents, and horticultural vegetables are produced in the -greatest abundance and of an excellent quality, as well as all kinds of -flesh meat and poultry. - -The province of Quito abounds in veins of gold and silver ore; but at -present (1810) none are wrought. Grains of gold are often found among -the sand washed down from Pichincha; but no search has ever been made to -discover the matrix, nor does any tradition exist, nor any vestige -remain of the working of mines in this mountain. - -The mountains in the neighbourhood of Palactawga, in the district of -Riobamba, are full of veins of gold and silver ore; but, excepting what -is gathered when the rainy season ceases among the decombres washed -down, they are entirely neglected; however, Don Martin Chiriboga, in -1808, had selected a very rich vein, which he assured me he had chosen -out of thirteen shewn to him, and had taken out a register for the -working of it; but during my stay in the province nothing effectual was -done. - -Near a village called Puncho a vein of cinnabar was discovered and -seized by the government, because mines producing quicksilver were a -royal monopoly; but a German mineralogist having been sent for from -Lima, to form an assay of the ore, declared in his report to the royal -audience, that it was a mine of sheet tin, _haja de lata_, not knowing -the proper name for tin; however this mistake caused the tribunal to -declare, that the mine should not be wrought nor again mentioned in -court. - -At Popayan and Cuenca there are many veins of iron, according to the -generally received reports, particularly at the latter place, which is -said to stand on a bed of iron ore. As I did not visit Cuenca, I mention -this on the authority of several individuals, of whose veracity I have -no reason to doubt. - -I have already, when at Huacho, spoken of the character of the Peruvian -indians; and as those of Quito were under the government of three of the -Incas, received their laws, rites, and customs, and adopted their -language, it is only reasonable to consider them a part of that nation, -or rather, that the character of that nation was stamped on their habits -and customs: at least, persevering industry, whether the result of their -becoming the subjects of the Inca, or otherwise, is strongly marked in -many of the remains of buildings in the territory belonging to Quito. - -The ruins near to Cayambe may certainly be called superb. They are -supposed to be the remains of a temple dedicated to the great creating -spirit, Pachacamac. These ruins are on an elevated part of the plain: -their form is a circle forty-eight feet in diameter; the walls are -fifteen feet high and five thick, and the whole is built of adobes, -sun-dried bricks, cemented with clay. The materials of which the walls -are constructed are in a state of perfect preservation, which fact -appeared to me more surprising than the building itself; because the -climate is very different from that on the coast of Peru, where I had -seen buildings of this class. Here the rains are both violent and of -long continuance, nevertheless the walls are in many parts entire, -though formed of clay, and seem by their hardness destined to defy the -ravages of time for centuries to come. - -At the northern extremity of the plains on which the town of Tacunga is -built are the remains of Callo, belonging at present to a farm in the -possession of the Augstin friars. This edifice, supposed to have been a -palace of the Inca, was built of porphyry; the stones were cut into long -square prisms of different dimensions, having the exterior surface -slightly convex, except at the doors, where the fronts are plain; this -gives to the walls the fluted appearance of rustic work. The stones are -joined with such extreme nicety and exactness that the point of a -pen-knife cannot be introduced between them. A kind of asphaltum seems -to have been used as a cement, although in other Peruvian buildings a -marly soil was employed for this purpose. - -About one hundred yards from these ruins, fronting the principal -entrance, there is a mount, standing in the middle of a plain: it is -about a hundred and fifty feet high, having the shape of a cone, and -appears to owe its existence ta human labour. It is called _el panecillo -de Callo_, and, like that which stands at the southern extremity of the -city of Quito, is supposed to have served the purpose of a watch-tower, -because it commands an extensive view of the surrounding country, and -might be one of the means employed to provide for the safety of the -conqueror against any sudden surprize of his new subjects. If we believe -the tradition of the Indians, it is a huaca or mausoleum of some of the -royal race of the Incas; but this is not correct, because, according to -Garcilaso, these were all interred at Cusco, to which place they were -conveyed if they died in any other part of the country, Cusco being -considered their holy city. - -Near the town of Atun Caņar there is another ruin, similar to that at -Callo, but of much greater extent; it was visited by M. de Humboldt, who -gives a description of it in his researches. At the distance of six -leagues is another at Pomallacta, and there are more in many parts of -the country. - -Several remains of fortified places, called pucuras, still exist; they -are hills or mounts surrounded by ranges of moats or ditches, dug behind -each other, and protected or strengthened with parapets of stone, whence -the holders could safely annoy the enemy. These places were so common, -that almost every eligible situation was thus fortified: the outward -moat of circumvallation at Pambamarca is upwards of a league and a half -in extent. - -The oral traditions of the indians touching the state of their country -before the arrival of the prince Huaina Capac, afterwards Inca of Peru, -are very trifling, and clothed in almost impenetrable obscurity; indeed, -the language spoken by them is entirely unknown, having been completely -superseded by the Quichua, the court language of the Incas. - -Huaina Capac having conquered the capital, called at that time Lican, he -espoused Pacchachiri, the daughter of the Quitu or supreme chief; she -was afterwards the mother of the unfortunate Atahualpa, to whom the Inca -at his death bequeathed the territory, which had formerly belonged to -the Quitu: the result of which bequest has already been shewn at -Caxamarca. - -Of the present race of indians, I shall only add to what I have said -when speaking generally of this class of the inhabitants of South -America, that the law of repartimiento, and the continuation of -corregidores in the provinces have weighed most heavily on the -unfortunate indians of the kingdom of Quito; consequently with their -debasement all the vices of indolence, apathy, and sloth are more -visible here than in those parts of the colonies, where the curse of -conquest has been less felt. - -Owing to the numerous population of Quito, its various climates, and -consequent diversity of productions, it must at some future period -become highly interesting to the naturalist, the merchant, and the -traveller. At present, one of the principal branches which will attract -commercial attention is that of wool, the quantity being great, and the -quality above mediocrity; but it will gradually improve as a more -perfect knowledge of the treatment of sheep becomes known to the -natives. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - Villa of Ibarra, Description.....Villa of Otavalo, Description.... - Lakes San Pablo and Cuicocha....Visit to the River Mapo....Gold - Mines on the Banks of....Indians pay their Tribute in Gold....Bæza, - the Capital of the District....Description of the Inhabitants, &c. - ....Commissioned by the Government to Explore a Road from the - Capital to the nearest Point of the Coast....Maldonado's Road.... - Leave Quito....Cross the Skirts of Pichincha, arrive at the River - Piti....Description of the Country....Description of Piti.... - Proceed to Esmeraldas....Description of the River of Jaguar.... - Houses, Plantations, Cattle....Method of Distilling Rum....Food of - the Inhabitants...._Saino_ Tatabra, and _Aguti_, or Huatus.... - Monkey and Charapa....Method of Killing Game with the _Sorbetana_ - and Poisoned _Pua_. - - -Eighteen leagues to the northward of Quito is the town, _villa_, of -Ibarra: it contains about twelve thousand inhabitants, many of whom are -employed in the manufactories of cotton and woollen cloths, stockings, -coverlets, and ponchos; the last of which are superior to those of any -other part of the kingdom. Here are a parish church and four convents, -San Francisco, Santo Domingo, San Augstin, and la Merced, and a nunnery -of La Conceptión. The houses are generally good, the streets wide and -convenient, and the market-place capacious. Some of the shops are -tolerably stored with European goods, and the trade carried on is very -considerable. The climate is warmer than that of Quito, and the market -is supplied with meat, pulse, fruit, and vegetables. Ibarra, being the -capital of the district of the same name, is the residence of the -Corregidor. - -In the district of Ibarra are many very fruitful valleys, in which there -are extensive plantations of sugar cane, from which the best sugar in -the kingdom is manufactured. The wheat grown in this district is also of -the finest quality. - -To the south west of Ibarra is the town, villa, of Otavalo, the capital -of the province or district of the same name. It contains from eighteen -to twenty thousand inhabitants, many of whom are mestisos, of a fair -complexion, and handsome in appearance; some of the men are remarkably -robust and muscular, indeed I never saw a race of finer looking people -than an assembly of Otavaleņos on a Sunday, when they meet at church, or -at a feast. The climate of this town is much colder than at Ibarra, or -Quito, owing to its greater elevation, as well as to its proximity to -Cayambe urcu. Cotton and wool are manufactured here in the same manner -as at Ibarra, the natives appearing more inclined to this kind of -labour than to the cultivation of the earth. Large quantities of cattle -are bred in the district of Otavalo, and some of the large estates have -from four to five hundred indians attached to them, who are employed -either in the cultivation of the land, or in the manufactories, obrages. -One large estate belongs to the Count of Casa Xijon, who brought several -mechanics and artisans from Europe for the purpose of establishing a -manufactory of fine cloths, woollens, and cottons; also for printing -calicoes, and other goods; but being prevented by the interference of -the royal audience, and a subsequent order from Spain, he was prevailed -on to destroy all his machinery, and to re-embark the artisans for -Europe. - -In this district there are two lakes; the larger one, called de San -Pablo, is about a league long and half a league wide, and is most -abundantly stored with wild geese, ducks, widgeons, herons, storks, and -other aquatic birds, but no fish. The smaller one is called Cuicocha; in -the centre of this there is a small island, where there are abundance of -guinea pigs in a wild state, named by the natives _cuis_, and hence the -name _Cuicocha_, cocha signifying a lake. Some small fish called -prenadillas, are caught here; they are somewhat similar to prawns, but -when boiled retain their colour, which is almost black. - -After I had visited Ibarra and Otavalo, I was ordered by the President, -in December, 1808, to visit the river Napo, for the purpose of reporting -on the state of the gold mines on the shores of that river. This -commission was extremely flattering to my wandering inclinations, not -only on account of my being thus able to visit some parts of the country -little known to Europeans, but because I should have an opportunity of -witnessing the very river where the undaunted Orellana embarked, and -among undiscovered and unheard of nations traversed the greatest extent -of country that had ever been crossed at that time by any human being. - -I was accompanied by six indians from Quito, and four yumbo indians. The -latter inhabit a valley between Quito and Bæza, and frequently bring to -the former place pine-apples, bananas, yucas, camotes, besides other -fruits and esculents. The yumbos were our guides, while the Quito -indians carried my provisions, clothes, bedding, and other necessaries. - -Our first day's journey was to Pomasqui, where we passed the night at -the house of a friend, who kindly added some machica and dried tongues -to my stock of eatables. On the following day we began to ascend the -eastern chain of the Cordillera, and slept at night in a small hut made -of a few slight poles, covered with pajon; the following night we slept -to the eastward of Antisana. On the fourth day we began to descend by a -very rugged path, and in some places so nearly perpendicular that we -were obliged to prevent ourselves from falling by taking hold of the -roots of trees, or the crags of rocks; however, about three o'clock in -the afternoon we reached the first small plantation and first hut of the -yumbos, where we remained that night, and on the following day I found -myself travelling along the north side of the Napo. - -I was met here by the son of Don Diego Melo, Governador of Archidona, -who pointed out to me the soil which contained gold. It was of a reddish -hue, and generally lay about three or four feet deep, having underneath -it a stratum of indurated clay; some of these _capas_, as they are -called, extend from one to two hundred yards or more from the margin of -the river, and are of different breadths, from twenty to sixty yards. No -trees or vegetables grow in this kind of soil, and the gold, its only -produce, is obtained by washings: hence they are called _lavaderos_, -washing places, which I shall describe when on the coast of Choco. - -The indians of the district of Archidona pay their tribute in gold dust, -which they collect from the sand along the sides of the different -rivulets; but owing to their ignorance of the comforts which this metal -would procure them, or perhaps to a dread of their being enslaved by the -_mita_, to work the mines, should they ever present themselves to pay -the tribute with an excess of it, they generally take care to pay it at -five or six different times, always complaining of the scarcity of gold, -and the trouble it costs to procure a small quantity. It is nevertheless -known, that if any remain after the payment is made, they throw it into -the river; but Don Diego Melo assured me, that one indian always paid -his tribute in a kind of gold, which he showed to me, and which was -evidently not in natural grains, but in small particles apparently cut -with a knife, or some other instrument, from a solid lump of that metal. -Don. N. Valencia sent some negroes to work a lavadero on the Napo; but -his death occasioned them to be recalled shortly afterwards, and the -project was abandoned, the negroes being ordered to return to Choco. - -There can be no doubt as to the immensity of treasure which is buried -in the capas, nor of that which is annually washed down by the rains -through the small ravines and rivulets into the river Napo, and thence -into the Maraņon, where it is lost. I think the necessity of negroes for -working these mines might be superseded by a kind treatment of the -native indians; by indulging them in their foibles at first, and -afterwards gradually convincing them of the benefit that would result to -themselves from their free labour in the mines. It would certainly be -superior to that of cultivating a few patches of land, and carrying the -produce to Quito or any of the other Spanish towns, to barter for iron, -fish-hooks, brads, and indigo. It is very evident, that such a project -would require a considerable degree of patience and self-command, and I -may add of honesty too, because the principal object would be to secure -the confidence of the indians, which, owing to the conduct generally -observed to them by the Spaniards, would not be easily accomplished. - -From the accounts which I was able to collect, it appears that all the -rivers and streams in the neighbourhood of the Napo contain gold; and in -different parts of the province of Archidona, or, as it is more -generally termed, Quixos y Macas, there are capas, or strata of earth -whence gold may be extracted by washings. - -Bæza is the ancient capital, and formerly contained upwards of ten -thousand inhabitants; but since the expulsion of the Jesuits it has -become entirely depopulated, as well as Archidona and Avila, two other -cities, and twenty-two missions, the greater part of the indians having -taken to their original way of living in a wild state. Those that remain -are generally called yumbos; they employ themselves in the cultivation -of cotton, sugar-cane, mam, and some tropical fruits, which they carry -to Quito to barter for those commodities which they find necessary -either for fishing or for the chase. They also manufacture the small -quantity of cloth which they require for themselves; this is of cotton, -and is generally no more than a _toldo_, mosquito curtain, in the shape -of a small tent, under which they sleep, besides one or two sheets of -the same material. The clothing of the men is merely a pair of short -drawers, reaching from the waist to about the middle of the thighs, and -is generally white; that of the women consists of a piece of blue cotton -cloth wrapped round the waist, reaching down to the knees; but a -profusion of glass beads adorn their necks, arms, wrists, and ankles. -Both men and women daub themselves with annota, achiote. In this half -dress they traverse the Cordillera, and with a basket made of -_piquigua_, a very tough creeper, carry their surplus to Quito. - -On my return to the capital of the kingdom, I was commissioned by his -Excellency the President to re-explore the roads leading from Quito to -the coast, namely, that explored in 1741 by Don Pedro Maldonado -Sotomayor, and that opened in 1803 by the President, Baron de -Carondelet. - -It had always been considered an object of the greatest importance to -open a communication between the capital and the nearest sea-port, for -the purpose of facilitating the commerce between this place, Panama, and -Terra-firma, and to avoid the inconveniences which are met with in the -circuitous road to Guayaquil, and which were highly injurious to -business in general. - -In 1621 Don Pablo Durango Delgadillo was nominated Governador of -Esmeraldas; he contracted with the Royal Audience of Quito to open a -road at his own cost from the town of Ibarra to the coast, and to -establish _tambos_, lodging houses, on the road; but he failed in the -fulfilment of his contract, and in 1626 was deprived of his government, -which was conferred, on the same conditions, on Don Francisco Peres -Munacho, who failed, like his predecessor, and was removed. Don Juan -Vicencio Justinian and Don Hernando de Soto Calderon were afterwards -appointed. They proposed a route to the coast different from their -predecessors, but they also failed in the execution of their plan. It -was adopted, however, by the Baron de Carondelet, who ordered the road -leading from Ibarra along the bank of the river Mira to that of La Tola -to be opened; but it was soon discovered, that the river Tola, owing to -a sand bank, or bar, which crosses the mouth of it, could never answer -the purposes of a port; and, from the manner in which the road had been -formed, in three years it became impassable, and passengers generally -preferred the paths along the woods to the highway. The continuance of -this road as a communication between the capital and the coast was not -the only objection--a distance of eighteen or twenty leagues was added -to that proposed in 1735 by Don Pedro Maldonado Sotomayor. - -This intelligent Quiteņo employed himself for more than two years in -examining the country lying between the capital and the coast, and being -invested with the same powers that were given to other projectors, in -1741 he opened a road leading directly from Quito to the river Piti, -which has its origin in Pichincha, and forms part of the Esmeraldas -river. Maldonado immediately went to Spain, and solicited a confirmation -of the contract, and from the favourable report of the council, the King -erected Esmeraldas into a government and a Lieutenant-Captain -Generalship in 1746, conferring on Don Pedro Maldonado the appointment -of Governor. - -On the return of Maldonado to Quito the Royal Audience opposed the -appointment, and immediately informed the Council of Indies, that the -projected port and road would only open to the enemies of Spain an -entrance to one of her richest American cities, without at any time -rendering an increase to the royal revenue. This report produced a -counter order, when Maldonado abandoned his native country in disgust, -and retired to France. - -The importance of the projected communication was so glaring, that the -merchants and natives never abandoned any opportunity of proposing it. -The President Baron de Carondelet had been induced to open the road -called de Malbucho; but this failing to answer the expectations of the -people, the President Count Ruis de Castilla was solicited to order an -examination of Maldonado's projected road; and the commission for this -purpose was conferred on me in May, 1809. - -I immediately prepared for my expedition, by ordering a surveying chain, -and by putting my sextant and some other instruments in order; -re-engaging also the indians who had accompanied me to Napo, as well as -six others. One of these was to be my carrier, and he waited on me for -the purpose of measuring me for a chair. My stock of provisions and -other necessaries having been procured, I left Quito with my suite; it -was composed of ten indians, with my luggage, one indian with my chair, -a servant, and four soldiers; forming a procession which would have -attracted the attention and drawn a smile from the inhabitants of any -city in England. - -The indians had their usual dresses, composed of white drawers, brown -capisayas, and sandals made of bullock's hide. Each carried on his back -a basket, like those of the yumbo indians, having a girth passing under -the bottom of it, which crossed the forehead; another was fastened round -the basket, one end of which the indian held in his hand to steady his -cargo. My carrier had a chair made of canes, and just large enough for -me to squeeze myself into; it had a board to rest my feet upon, and two -or three canes formed an arch over my head; these were for the purpose -of placing leaves on when it might happen to rain. The two hind feet of -the chair rested on two straps, which passed round the arms of the -indian close to his body, and one attached to the top went round his -forehead; so that when seated my back was towards the back of my -supporter. - -Leaving Quito, we travelled along the plain of Aņaquito about two -leagues, and then began to ascend the skirts of Pichincha, at a small -village called Cotocollo: the ascent was very gentle, and after a -journey of five leagues, we rested on the western side of the summit, at -a small hamlet called Yana Cancha. We had here a most beautiful prospect -of the crater of Pichincha, which was only about half a mile distant, -and during the whole of the night I could hear a rumbling noise, and I -sometimes imagined that I felt a tremulous motion. These appalling -circumstances kept me awake for a considerable time, though they had no -such effect on my indians and the guard, nor on the inhabitants of the -house, who all slept soundly, and many of them snored most lustily. At -sunrise the view from Yana Cancha was most enchanting; from the slope of -the mountain, apparently from the crater, the river Mindo rolled down -to the fertile valley which it irrigates, dispensing its necessary -support to the many small plantations of sugar-cane, camotes, yucas, -bananas and plantains, which are cultivated at the bottom of the ravine: -to the westward immense forests extended themselves, forming the -boundary of the horizon to the naked eye; but with the assistance of a -good eye-glass I could perceive the Pacific Ocean beyond the limit of -the woods. - -Having crossed two eminences called Yarumos, and another called Inga -Chaca, the remainder of the road to the place of embarkation on the -river Piti was quite level, being intersected about every three leagues -with small rivulets. The whole distance from Quito to Piti being only -eighteen leagues, without any obstacles whatever to prevent it from -being converted into a most excellent road, makes a difference between -this and that leading to Guayaquil of about fifty leagues of land -travelling. - -When on our journey we had to halt for the night, the indians unloaded -themselves, and cut down six or eight slender poles, ten feet long, -which they stuck into the ground; they then cut others, which they tied -crossways to the former, with strips of bark; they next pulled the -upper part forward till this half roof formed an angle with the ground -of about forty-five degrees, and sticking a pole into the ground in -front, they tied the cross pole to the top of it to keep the building in -a proper position. The next business was to cover it, and for this -purpose each of them had procured when at Yana Cancha a roll of about -twenty _vijao_ leaves, which were laid in rows along it from the bottom -to the top, each leaf hanging over the next inferior one, so that the -rain was entirely carried off, and to secure the dryness of this rude, -yet comfortable cabin, a small gutter was always dug at the back to -carry off the water. During this operation part of the indians were -engaged in procuring water, either from some neighbouring rivulet, or, -after we had descended the hill called el Castillo, from the _huadhuas_. -These are large canes, the largest species I believe of the gramina -tribes; they grow to the height of forty feet, perfectly straight, and -at the bottom are about six inches in diameter. The whole of the cane is -divided by knots, from ten to fifteen inches asunder; when green, they -are filled with excellent water, so that from each division about two -quarts may be obtained by cutting a notch in the cane; when they are -approaching to a state of ripeness, the water becomes like a jelly, and -when quite ripe it is converted into a white calcareous substance, some -of the knots holding upwards of two ounces of this matter, which a few -months before was held in solution in a perfectly transparent fluid: on -this account the indians object to drink the water, on the supposition -that it may produce calculi. - -The leaves are in shape somewhat similar to those of the banana, about a -yard long, and half a yard broad; the upper side is of a beautiful pale -green, the under white; it is covered with a substance which melts when -held near the fire, and collected has the appearance and possesses all -the qualities of bees' wax. A small portion of it being added to tallow -hardens it considerably, and the candles made from this composition are -rendered much more durable in hot climates. These leaves are preferable -to those of the plantain, or banana, for they are quite pliable, and are -therefore often used for packing instead of paper, whereas the banana -leaf is easily torn into shreds; this, however, may be prevented by -holding them over the fire till they become pliable. It is customary for -the indians to pay a real at Yana Cancha for the loan of each bundle, -which they engage to deliver on their return, or they give two bundles -for one instead of a real; thus travellers carry under their arms during -the day the roof which is to shelter them at night. - -The soil of the country between Quito and Piti is very rich, and abounds -in many kinds of most excellent timber, suitable for buildings as well -as for the cabinet maker; among these there are cedars, huachapeli, -ebony, cascol, guayacan, lumas, and many others. One kind, called -_sangre de drago_, dragon's blood, grows in many places near to Piti. It -attains the height of forty or fifty feet; the leaf is somewhat similar -to that of the laurel, and the gum which it produces, and which gives it -the name it bears, oozes immediately whenever an incision is made in the -bark; it is then received on a leaf, or in a small hollow cane, or else -it is left to harden in the sun, by which means each drop becomes in -size and shape like an almond; the indians collect it and carry it to -Quito, where it is sold as a dye. - -The appearance of the yarumos scattered in clusters in different parts -of the woods is most beautiful from an eminence. They are a species of -bombax; the wood is porous and light, the leaves extremely large, and of -a very pale green colour, so that amid the dark green foliage of these -extensive woods they look like enormous flowers. - -The richness of the soil, the plenteousness of water, even for -irrigation should it be necessary, the serenity of the climate, and the -facility of procuring indians as labourers, with every advantage that -can be desirable, render it very probable, that this part of Quito will -soon become populous, and that Panama, and the mines of Chocó, will in a -few years be supplied with the produce of land now in an uncultivated -state. There can be no doubt but that herds of cattle and fields of -grain will crown the labours of those who may form establishments in -this charming territory, where maize, wheat, rice, and plantains, the -daily bread of the four quarters of the globe, will be produced in -abundance to reward the labour of the husbandman. - -At Piti I found an old man, his wife, and two sons living in a -comfortable house, built like those of the Puna in the Guayaquil river, -shaded with half a dozen lofty coro palms, and fanned with the -magnificent leaves of the plantain, while the banana, several orange, -lemon, palta, guava, arnona, and other intertropical fruit trees were -laden with fruit, at the same time that small patches of sugar-cane, -yucas, and camotes, seemed to vie with each other in luxuriance: numbers -of turkeys, fowls and ducks ran about on a small plot of ground lying -between the house and the river, which is here about a hundred yards -wide. Two canoes were tied to two trees, in one of which there was a -small casting net, several harpoons and fishing lines--every thing -seemed to bespeak comfort, nay, even profusion. - -The old man informed me, that he was a native of Guayaquil; but that he -had resided on this spot for more than fifty years, on which account the -natives of the country had surnamed him _taita_ Piti, father Piti. He -shewed me forty-eight tiger or jaguar skins, and assured me, that the -animals had all been slain by his own lance; but he was sorry, he said, -that the sport was at an end, not because he was old, but because there -were no tigers left in the neighbourhood for him to kill, upwards of -seven years having elapsed since he took the last skin. He assured me, -that whenever he found the track of a tiger he always followed it alone, -and never rested till he had slain his victim. The skins were hung on -the inside of the roof and round the sides of the house, forming a very -pretty, but rather uncommon kind of tapestry. - -I here discharged my indians, and paid them only three dollars each, -although I had detained them eleven days on the road; my carrier told -me, that he had never had a lighter cargo, having had nothing but the -chair to carry; indeed I never entered it but twice, once out of -curiosity, and another time through persuasion: they all laid out their -money in fruit, roots, and dried fish, which they took to Quito, and -which would pay them at least cent. per cent. - -I rested one day at Piti, and then proceeded down the river in a small -canoe with the two sons of old Piti, leaving orders for my servant, -luggage, and the soldiers to follow me in a larger one. - -We glided down the stream about two miles, the river in some parts being -so narrow, that the branches of the trees which grew on each side were -entwined with each other over our heads, and formed a leafy canopy -almost impenetrable to the rays of the sun, and we could observe the -fishes frisking about in the water beneath; sometimes where the river -became wider, the margins were covered with the luxuriant gamalote, the -leaves of which are generally a yard long and two inches broad, being -somewhat like those of the maize; the stem is sometimes two yards high, -as green as the leaves, so long as the soil in which it grows continues -to be moist; but as soon as the earth becomes dry the plant immediately -decays. Here we saw some beautiful fat oxen grazing on this plant; they -belonged to the inhabitants of three houses, each of which was as -charmingly situated as that at Piti. We soon arrived at the place called -the _Embarcadero de Maldonado_, where we left our canoe tied to a pole, -and took a breakfast composed of smoked fish broiled, fried eggs, and -plantains; and for drink we had some _masato_ and rum made by the -natives. - -The masato is made by boiling a quantity of ripe plantains till they are -quite soft; these are reduced to a pulp by beating them in a trough; -this pulp is then put into a basket lined with vijao leaves, and allowed -to ferment two, three, or more days; when it is wanted a spoonful or -more is taken out and put into a tutuma bored full of holes like a -cullender, a quantity of water is added to it, and the whole is rubbed -through the holes of one tutuma into another without holes, which serves -as a bowl to drink out of; or small tutumas are filled from it, and -handed round. I was highly pleased with the masato, and scarcely took -any thing else for my breakfast; the taste is a sub-acid, but remarkably -agreeable. I purchased a small basket for the remainder of our passage -down the river, at which my two _palanqueros_ were not a little pleased. - -At the distance of three leagues from the Embarcadero de Maldonado a -most enchanting prospect suddenly burst on our sight. We had almost -insensibly glided along the unrippled surface of the river Piti, a -distance of about four leagues, during which the view was limited on -each side by the lofty and almost impenetrable woods, and before us by -the windings of the river--where not a sound was heard save the -occasional chattering of the parrots and monkeys on the trees, or the -shout of my palanqueros to the inmates of some solitary houses scattered -along the banks. Our sphere of existence seemed solitary, and as silent -as a dungeon, and I lolled in the canoe as if oppressed with -uninterrupted solemnity, such as might be congenial to the pious musings -of a holy anchorite; but I was suddenly roused from my reverie by the -loud roaring of the river Blanco, and in a moment the scene was changed; -at once our narrow river formed part of another, three hundred yards -wide; on our left the whole range of the country as far as the coast was -extended in the prospect. The Blanco, which rises in the neighbourhood -of Tacunga, after collecting part of the waters of el Corason and -Pichincha, and receiving those of several tributary streams, becomes -navigable at its junction with the Piti. The country on the western side -of the river is to a considerable extent very level, the soil good, but -the trees neither so numerous nor so lofty as in other parts, owing -perhaps to a scanty depth of soil, which seems extremely well calculated -for a rice country; indeed the natives assured me, that the small -patches sometimes cultivated here multiplied the seed six hundred fold. - -After passing the mouths of several minor rivers we arrived at that of -Guallabamba, equal in size to the river Blanco. The union of the two is -called Esmeraldas. We continued our course, and reached the city of -Esmeraldas in the evening. The distance from Piti to this place is about -eighteen leagues, which notwithstanding our delays we completed in nine -hours. - -During our passage down the river I was very much delighted with the -sight of a full grown tiger, which lay basking in the sun on a sand-bank -that projected from the side of the river almost across it. The noble -brute was stretched close to the edge of the bank, frequently dipping -his tail into the water, and sprinkling it over him, while his muzzle -and feet touched the stream. After watching the animal for a quarter of -an hour, my palanqueros became impatient, and at last taking their -lances they jumped ashore from the canoe, but at the same moment the -tiger sprang on his feet, yawned, stretched himself, and trotted into -the woods, leaving the two young fellows to lament the effects of their -less nimble feet. - -Between Piti and Esmeraldas I counted forty-two houses, built on the -sides of the river, each having plantations of sugar-cane, yucas, -camotes, aji (capsicum), plantains, and bananas. Near many of the houses -horned cattle were feeding on the luxuriant gamalote, and at every house -pigs and poultry were running about. Each farmer has a hand-mill for -grinding sugar-cane; its construction is very simple, being composed of -two wooden rollers placed horizontally in grooves cut in two upright -pieces. The ends of the rollers project, one on each side, having cross -levers for the purpose of turning them; with this simple wooden machine, -for not one of all those that I saw had a nail, nor any other iron work -about it, the natives express the juice from the cane, for the purpose -of making _guarapo_, molasses, and rum; two men are generally employed -at the rollers, and a woman attends to place the cane between them, -while the boys and girls bring it from the plantation. - -It was here that I observed the peculiar mode of cultivating the -sugar-cane, which I have already spoken of; that is, of cutting the ripe -canes every three months, uncovering the roots of the remainder, -incorporating the soil with new earth, or digging it as well as that of -the space between the two rows, and then hoeing the earth up to the -roots again. By these means the cane here is perennial; while in the -province of Guayaquil, where the same mode of cultivation is not -observed, the plant yields only two, or at most three crops. Although -the cane at Esmeraldas is of the creole kind, I have seen it when ripe -more than ten feet high, six inches in diameter, and seven or eight -inches between the knots or geniculi. - -The means employed by the natives in the manufacture of their rum are -remarkably simple: the juice of the cane is allowed to obtain the proper -degree of fermentation, and is then distilled. The apparatus used for -this purpose is a deep earthen pot, having a hole on one side near the -top; through this they pass a large wooden spoon, having a groove in the -handle; on the top of the pot there is a pan luted to it with clay, and -this being repeatedly filled with cold water, and emptied, serves as a -condenser; the spirit drops into the spoon, and running along the groove -is received in a bottle. I considered this alembic as an invention of -the natives of this part of America, because I never saw it used in any -other place; the general custom of the indians is to content themselves -with fermented liquors from the manufactories of the white inhabitants, -especially where spirits cannot be purchased. - -Spirits are also distilled from an infusion of very ripe bananas in -water; this is allowed to ferment, and is strained before it is put into -the alembic. Another fermented beverage, as well as spirit, is prepared -from the yuca; the root is boiled, reduced to a pulpy substance, and -placed in baskets to ferment, in the same manner as the plantains are -for the masato; when mixed with water and strained, it is called -_kiebla_, and the spirit distilled from it _puichin_. The water -contained in the coco-nut is also allowed to ferment, but this is seldom -drunk, it being considered very unwholesome. Although these people have -so many intoxicating liquors, they are not prone to drunkenness. - -The food of the inhabitants consists of beef and pork, which is cut into -thick slices, salted and smoked. The beef which is fed on gamaloti is -good, but that fed on the savanas near to the sea is much better: the -hogs are fed on ripe plantains, and become very fat, but the meat is not -solid. Fowls are bred in great abundance; they feed well on ripe -plantains, and are delicate eating. Besides these, the woods produce -game in great abundance. Among the quadrupeds are sainos, tatabras, -deer, monkeys, agutis, iguanas, charapas: among the birds, poujis, -huacharacas, turkeys, parrots, and wild ducks of several varieties. - -The saino, tatabra, and aguti are three varieties of the caira tribe; -the first is about two feet high and three feet long, and is slightly -covered with coarse black hair; the snout is shorter than that of a pig; -it has on its back a soft protuberance, which when opened emits a very -offensive musky odour, so much so, that the animal itself rolls about, -and places its nose close to the ground, as if to avoid the stench, and -its companions immediately desert it. The flesh of this animal, however, -is extremely delicate, and by the natives or any other person who has -tasted it, it is held in the greatest estimation: to preserve it the -natives smoke it in preference to using salt. - -The tatabra is smaller than the saino; is very similar to it, but it has -no protuberance on its back. The aguti is not so large as a rabbit; it -is of a very dark grey colour, and the hind legs are much longer than -the fore ones; it generally sits on its haunches like a squirrel, and -might be mistaken for one; as well as the other two varieties, however, -it has no tail, at least not visible. These two species are easily -domesticated, they become very fat, and are good eating. - -The monkey which is eaten by the natives is the black long-armed monkey. -I objected for a long time to taste it, but seeing the people around me -eat it, and hearing them all praise it, I laid aside prejudice, tasted -it, and afterwards became so fond of it, that I considered it superior -to any kind of meat I had ever eaten. The flesh is similar in colour to -mutton, the fat resembles that of pork. - -The charapa is a small tortoise, the shell not being above four inches -in diameter: the natives generally season all the eatable parts, and put -them into the shell, which serves as a stew-pan: the eggs are remarkably -delicate, and when stewed with the meat the whole is very savoury. - -The natives make use of the lance in killing the saino and tatabra. They -usually form parties for the purpose, and never go singly; for although -these animals will not attack a man who does not molest them, yet the -sainos when provoked are very desperate antagonists, and will attack -those who offend them. They make a hollow moaning noise, which leads the -natives to their feeding places, when they attack them with their long -lances; two or more men stand back to back, surrounded by these -poisonous brutes, and kill as many as they judge convenient; they then -pierce one on the back, when the rest immediately disperse to avoid the -smell. The tatabra is not so furious, and is an easier prey to the -huntsman. - -During my stay at Esmeraldas I was requested to go into the woods, about -a league and a half from the town, to see a great curiosity; not being -able to learn what it was, I went, and found the two hind quarters of a -full grown jaguar suspended from the trunk of a tree, into which the -claws were completely buried; all the fore parts appeared to have been -torn away, and fragments of it were scattered on the ground: the sight -astonished me, and I was not less surprized at the account which I -received from the natives. The jaguar, for the purpose of killing the -saino, on which it feeds, rushes on one of a herd, strikes it, and then -betakes itself to a tree, which it ascends, and fastening its hind -claws into the tree, hangs down sufficiently low to be able to strike -the saino with its paws, which having effected in a moment it draws -itself up again, to escape being hurt by the enemy. However, it appeared -that in this case the jaguar had been incautious, and the saino had -caught it by the paw, when the whole herd immediately attacked it, and -tore as much of it to pieces as they could reach. - -For taking birds the natives use a hollow tube of wood, from five to -eight feet long, called a _sorbetana_, or _bodojera_, the diameter of -the perforation being not more than half an inch; the dart used is -called _pua_, it is about seven or eight inches long, and very slender; -at one end a sharp point is cut, and it is notched round so as easily to -break off. This point is dipped in some poison, a small quantity of raw -cotton is wrapped round the pua, near the point, so as to fill the tube -into which it is put; the sportsman then applies his mouth to the tube, -gives a smart puff, and the pua is thrown to the distance of a hundred, -or a hundred and fifty yards, with an almost unerring certainty against -the object marked out, which in a moment falls to the ground and -expires. The poison used is brought from Maynas, on the banks of the -Maraņon, where it is procured from a vegetable. It probably owes its -poisonous quality to the quantity of prussic acid which it contains, -although it does not possess either the taste or odour of that acid. The -activity of this poison is so astonishingly great, that I have seen a -monkey while jumping from one tree or branch to another, if wounded with -the poisoned point of a pua not larger than a fine needle, fall to the -ground before it could reach the adjacent bough; and birds as large as -turkeys will fall from their perch without being able to throw -themselves on the wing. A small black spot is left in the flesh by the -poison, but the whole of the meat is uninjured for food. - -The natives use this poison as a purgative, and I was assured by several -who have taken it, that it operates very mildly; they always take it in -the form of a pill, carefully enveloped in a portion of the pulp of the -plantain, to prevent the possibility of its touching the gums, or any -lacerated part of the body, as death would almost inevitably be the -consequence. The only partial antidote known, when by accident a person -is wounded, is to eat a considerable quantity of sugar, and to this the -sportsmen have recourse after they have been employed for any -considerable length of time with the sorbetana, as sometimes a swelling -of the lips is produced, which they suppose to be occasioned by inhaling -the contaminated air in the tube. As a defensive weapon the sorbetana -and poisoned pua are excellent; in the hands of these people they would -commit the greatest havoc, because they might be used in an ambuscade or -defile, without any noise or report; and the pua being almost invisible -in the air, an army ignorant of such missiles might be destroyed in the -same manner as a troop of monkeys, when one of which drops the rest -immediately flock to the spot, as if to examine the cause, and one after -another become the prey of the hunters. - -The dexterity with which the sorbetana is used is very great; but the -men are trained to it from their earliest infancy. Boys of three or four -years old have their tubes of a proportionate size, and use the puas -without poison, with which they shoot small birds: they also frequently -entertain themselves in the evening with shooting the wasps, which build -their nests under the eaves or floors of the houses. I have often been -astonished at the extraordinary precision with which the little naked -rogues direct the pua. - -Although the natives are such expert marksmen, either with their almost -unerring throw of the lance, or aim with the sorbetana, they are -passionately fond of fire-arms, and will give almost the whole of what -they possess for a fowling-piece or musket, and this notwithstanding -their want of skill in its use. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - Continuation of Esmeraldas, Fish caught in the River...._Chautisa_, - method of taking....Preserving of....Method of catching Fish in the - River....Of Cooking it....Yucas, Camotes, Yams....Palmettos.... - Tobacco....Cocoa....New variety of....Occupation of the - Esmeraldeņos....Origin of....Language....Dress....Manners and - Character of....Religion....Re-ascend the Esmeraldas River, to the - Embarcadero de Maldonado....Mouth of the River....City of - Esmeraldas....Road to Atacames....Port of....Town of.... - _Manzanillo_....Rio Verdo....La Tola....Country Produce, Timber, - and Wood....Coutchouc....Fruit....Palms....Animals....Mines.... - Conclusion. - - -In the Esmeraldas river and in many of the tributary streams there is a -variety of delicate fish, as well as in the sea on the neighbouring -coast. The most delicate in the rivers are the lisa, _dama_, _sabalo_, -and _sabalete_; in the sea the lisa, corbina, chita, mero, and tollo; -besides these there is a small fish resembling a shrimp, not half an -inch long, which makes its annual appearance in February, or in the -beginning of March; it is called _chautisa_, and is really a great -delicacy when prepared by the natives. The numbers which ascend the -rivers are so great, that on each side they appear to form a white path -in the water, about two feet broad, and several miles in length. The -women employ themselves in taking them, for which purpose they have a -canoe; two of them hold a piece of flannel three yards long by the -corners, and place it under the surface of the water, one end being a -little elevated to prevent the chautisa from passing, and when a -considerable quantity are collected the flannel is taken up and emptied -into the canoe, after which the operation is repeated. In the course of -two hours I have frequently seen from six to eight bushels taken in this -manner by three women. They are preserved by using as much salt as is -necessary to season them; they are then put into baskets lined with -leaves, and a large stone is placed on the top to press them into a -solid mass, like a cheese. After standing a day or two, the baskets are -placed on a frame made of canes, which is elevated about a yard from the -ground; they are then covered with plantain leaves, and a small fire of -green cedar, sandal, or other aromatic wood is kindled underneath, for -the purpose of smoking them. After remaining ten or twelve hours, the -cakes are taken out of the baskets, and again exposed to the smoke till -it has penetrated through them, when they are laid up for use. A small -portion of the smoked chautisa is generally added to fish while -cooking, to which it communicates a very delicate flavour: several -dishes are also prepared with the chautisa mixed with yucas, yams, and -other esculents. - -For fishing at sea the natives generally use hooks, but they have both -drag and cast nets made of pita, which are always dyed with annotta, -achiote. In the rivers they use the common means practised for taking -fish, besides which they sometimes make an enclosure of canes on the -side of the river, having a trap door so suspended that it can be -loosened by a person who hides himself at a short distance from the -trap. The decoy consists of a bunch of ripe plantains, suspended so as -just to catch the surface of the water: the fish, particularly the two -most delicate kinds, the sabalo and sabalete, enter to eat the -plantains, and when the watchman observes, either by the motion of the -rope to which the fruit is fastened, or from the splashing heard in the -water, that a quantity have entered the _corral_, he lets the trap door -fall, and takes the fish with a small net. I have been present when two -hundred fine fish have been caught in this way at one time. - -The most curious method used for catching fish is that which is -practised after night fall: a man takes his small canoe and places in -the bow of it a large piece of lighted coutchouc, in order to attract -the fish; he then places himself behind the light and strikes them with -a small harpoon; and he is so very dexterous that he very rarely errs. -The sight of two or three canoes on the water at night, having their -large lights burning, and now and then reflected on the fisherman, or -silvering the rippled stream, is very pleasing. Many times have I -wandered along the margins of the river at Esmeraldas to witness this -scene, when the silence of the night was uninterrupted, except by the -lave of the waters gently splashing on the sandy shore. - -When a large quantity of fish is taken which is intended for sale the -natives preserve it with salt, but if it be destined for home -consumption they usually smoke it, particularly the sabalo and lisa, -which are very fat. One of the methods of cooking fish, and which is -practised here, is exceedingly good, preferable, I think, to any other. -After the fish is cleaned it is seasoned with a little salt, and the -pods of green capsicum; it is then rolled up in a piece of plantain, or -vijao leaf, and laid among the hot embers, or buried among the hot -ashes; when sufficiently done it is eaten off the leaf, and is -remarkably delicate, all the gravy and flavour of the fish having been -preserved by the leaf; cooked in this manner it is called _pandao_. - -The yucas, camotes, and yams cultivated at Esmeraldas and in the -neighbourhood are the finest I ever saw. It is not uncommon for one of -these roots to weigh upwards of twenty pounds. At one place I saw a few -plants of the yuca that had stood upwards of twenty years, the owner -having frequently bared the bottom of the plants and taken the ripe -roots, after which, throwing up the earth again and allowing a -sufficient time for new roots to grow, a continual succession of this -excellent nutritious food was procured. - -The palmito supplies the place of many of our European vegetables, and -is certainly far superior to the finest cabbage I ever ate. It is -particularly white, tender, and delicate, and greatly resembles the sea -kale. To procure them the top of a palm is cut down and opened, and the -white core or leaves are taken out, which constitute what is often -termed by travellers the cabbage, and the tree is known by the name of -the cabbage tree. As there is an abundance of coco-nut palms in the -neighbourhood, I one day had a tree cut down, and the palmetto taken -out; it measured four feet nine inches long, and eighteen inches in -circumference; when boiled it exceeded any vegetable I ever tasted; it -was perfectly white, tender, and delicately flavoured. - -Tobacco is cultivated here, and it is of an excellent quality: it is not -preserved in the leaf, but twisted into a small roll, and made into -parcels of about twenty ounces each, which sell from a quarter to half a -dollar the bundle: it finds a very ready market at Quito. Owing to the -expences of the administration of the royal rent or monopoly of tobacco -at Quito, the president and officers of the revenue declared it a free -trade. This news was welcomed by the natives with joy, and should the -newly constituted authorities allow it to remain free from restrictions, -its produce will be the source of great riches to the inhabitants of -this part of the country. - -[Illustration: MALE & FEMALE INDIANS OF THE MALABA TRIBE.] - -The small quantity of cocoa that is grown in the province of Esmeraldas -is of the finest quality, and considered by many amantes del cacao to be -equally as good as the royal bean of Socomusco. A letter from the -governor of the mint at Mexico to Don Juan de Larrea was shewn to me at -Quito, stating, that a sample of the Esmeraldas cocoa having been sent -to him, the quality was so highly approved, that he and his friends -should be willing to purchase any quantity at twenty-five dollars the -arobo. At the same time the Guayaquil cocoa was selling at three and a -half dollars, and the best Caracas at five. The bean of the Esmeraldas -cocoa is very small compared with that of Guayaquil, not being above -one-third of the size: it is of a bright orange colour, and very heavy -from the large quantity of sebaceous matter which it contains. The -chocolate made from it preserves the same golden appearance, and is -extremely delicious. Another kind of cocoa is found here, called -_moracumba_; it is never cultivated by the natives, growing wild in the -woods: the tree is considerably larger than that of the theobroma cacao, -and has a very different appearance; but the pods grow to the stem and -large branches in the same manner, and have the same appearance as the -other; the beans under the brown husk are composed of a white solid -matter, almost like a lump of hard tallow. The natives take a quantity -of these and pass a piece of slender cane through them, and roast them, -when they have the delicate flavour of the cocoa. I have also seen them -bruise the bean after it had been well dried, and use the substance -instead of tallow in their lamps. This kind of cocoa, which I consider a -new variety, will undoubtedly when more known be mixed with the dry -cocoa of Guayaquil and other places, to which it will be a very great -improvement. - -The occupation of the male part of the inhabitants consists in hunting, -fishing, and attending to their small plantations. Their maize is not of -the best quality, the grain is hard, and scarcely repays the care of the -planter, for cultivator I cannot call him. All the labour requisite is -merely to search for a piece of land unshaded by trees, or to cut down a -portion of these, plant the grain, observe when the young cobs begin to -appear, protect the plantation against the depredation of the monkeys, -agutis, and parrots, till the grain be ripe, and then to harvest it: -this is generally done about eleven weeks after the seed is put into the -ground. Four crops may be produced in one year, without either ploughing -or harrowing or scarcely any other labour. It is thus that the bountiful -hand of providence dispenses gifts in a country whose climate does not -suit hard labour, a blessing which the inhabitants of colder regions do -not enjoy. But they who choose may call the effects produced by these -gifts "the habitual indolence of the people," without contrasting the -sterility of the soil and climate of one country with the fertility of -that of another. - -The females at Esmeraldas are generally occupied in their household -concerns; however they assist in the labour of the plantations, and -usually accompany their husbands when fishing or hunting calls them far -from their home: in the canoes the women usually take the paddles when -proceeding down a stream; but they seldom or never use the pole, -_palanca_, when ascending. Although they assist the men in what may be -called their department, the reverse never happens, and a man would -consider himself degraded should he add a piece of wood to the fire, -assist in unlading a canoe of plantains, in distilling rum, or perform -any office connected with household concerns. I have seen a man and his -wife arrive at their dwelling with a cargo of plantains, camotes, &c.; -the man would step ashore, carrying his lance, throw himself into a -hammock, leave his wife to unload the canoe, and wonder at the same time -that his dinner was not ready, yet he would not stir either hand or foot -to hasten it. - -The natives of Esmeraldas, Rio Verde, and Atacames, are all zambos, -apparently a mixture of negroes and indians; indeed the oral tradition -of their origin is, that a ship, having negroes on board, arrived on the -coast, and that having landed, they murdered a great number of the male -indians, kept their widows and daughters, and laid the foundation of the -present race. If this were the case, and it is not very improbable, the -whole of the surrounding country being peopled with indians, it produces -a striking instance of the facility with which an apparently different -tribe of human beings is produced, for the present Esmeraldenos are very -different in their features, hair, colour, and shape, to the chino, or -offspring of a negro and an indian; these are commonly short and lusty, -of a very deep copper colour, thick hair, neither lank nor curled, small -eyes, sharpish nose, and well-shaped mouth; whereas the Esmeraldenos are -tall, and rather slender, of lightish black colour, different from that -called copper colour, have soft curly hair, large eyes, nose rather -flat, and thick lips, possessing more of the negro than of the indian, -which may be partly accounted for by the male parents having been -originally negroes; and the children, as I have already observed, -preserve more of the colour of the father than of the mother. - -The language of the Esmeraldenos is also entirely different from the -Quichua, which is the general language of the indians; it is rather -nasal and appears very scanty of words; for instance, a woman is called -teona, a mare qual teona, a bitch shang teona, the word teona being -added to the name of the male. It is, however, not unharmonious, and -some of their native songs are not devoid of melody. - -The dress of the men is generally a pair of pantaloons of blue cotton, -dyed tocuyo, a white or blue shirt hanging loose on the outside of the -pantaloons, and a large straw hat. The women wear a piece of blue cotton -or woollen cloth wrapped round the waist, and reaching down to their -knees, also a shirt, or more commonly a handkerchief, having two of the -corners tied together at the back of the neck, while the handkerchief -hangs down before; when at work, or in their houses, both men and women -generally throw off the shirt. The children go about naked to the age of -eight or ten years. The manner of nursing their infants appeared very -strange; the child is placed on a piece of wood, in the shape of a -coffin lid, hollowed a little like a tray, and covered with a piece of -cotton cloth, on which the child is laid; it is then slightly covered -with another cloth, and lashed down with a tape or a piece of cord; in -this manner they carry them from place to place under their arms, on -their heads, or in the bottom of their canoes, often placing a banana -leaf over them as a precaution against the scorching heat of the sun; in -their houses they have two loops of cord hanging from a cane nearly at -the top of the roof; the child is within these loops, and the whole -swings backward and forward and lulls it to sleep. - -The natives are shy with strangers, and particularly the females; they -are however very ingenuous, which to some people appears indecent; and -well it may, since cunning and craftiness are too often the handmaids of -a high degree of civilization. They appear particularly attached to -truth and honesty; their _yes_ and _no_ bear the exact value of the -words, and if at any time they are called upon to ratify them, or are -induced to think that they are not believed, they leave in a very abrupt -manner the person or the company. Their honesty is evinced by the -exposure of what they possess, and by leaving it thus exposed when they -go on their hunting and fishing parties. The houses, like those of the -Puná, are not only without doors and windows, but without walls, and the -only sign by which an inhabited house can be distinguished from an -uninhabited one is, that the steps of the ladder in the latter are -turned downwards, and no arguments whatever are sufficient to persuade -an Esmeraldeno to enter a house when the ladder is thus placed. - -It may with truth be asserted, that industry is certainly not a -prominent feature in their habits; but where a sufficiency is easily -procured, where luxury in food or clothing is unknown, where superiority -is never contended for, and where nature appears not only to invite, but -even to tempt her creatures to repose, why should they reject her offer. -The excessive exercise taken in hunting and fishing is certainly a -proof, that when exertion becomes necessary for the support of nature, -it is resorted to with as much alacrity as in other countries, where -labour is imposed either to support the pomp of superiority, or the -whims of fashion. - -In their persons and food the Esmeraldenos are particularly cleanly; -they are abstemious at their meals, and not inclined to habitual -intoxication. It is rare indeed to see them in this state, excepting -during the time of their festivals. They have a curious practice when -assembled at dinner: the men alone are seated, and the women hand to -them in small _tutumas_ the _masato_; they all immediately rise, each -holding his cup; they then fill their mouths with the beverage, and -turning round their heads over the right shoulder, they squirt the drink -through their teeth, after which they resume their seats. This I was -told was an offering to their departed friends. The cups being again -filled, the same ceremony once more takes place, and is a propitiatory -offering to the spirits of the air, a sort of supplication to protect -their plantations and cattle against the ravages of the wild beasts and -birds. - -All the natives call themselves Christians, but they seldom conform to -the ceremonies of the church, forming a very strong contrast to some -others of the same denomination, who are really only Christians in the -ceremonious part, and who are, I fear, more remote from loving God above -all things, than those indians are from loving their neighbours as -themselves. They are particularly superstitious. If a man be wounded by -accident with his own lance, he will break the staff, and send the head -to be again tempered by the blacksmith; if a hat fall into the water, -its owner immediately exclaims, "my hat instead of myself," and never -attempts to recover it; if the master of a house die, the remainder of -the family abandons it for ever, nor will any other individual occupy it -till the expiration of a year: but all these are harmless foibles, as -innocent in their practice as in their effects. - -Their number of diversions or entertainments is very small; after the -occupations of the day they generally retire to rest; the Sunday is to -the generality of them like any other day; but when they assemble at the -annual feasts in the town singing and dancing are very common. The music -which I heard among them, and the instruments which I saw in their -houses were novel to me, and are perhaps unique, except the drum; this -they make by fastening a piece of hog's skin over one end of a hollow -piece of wood, the other end is left open; the _chambo_ is a hollow tube -about thirty inches long, and four in circumference, made of a soft kind -of wood, and pierced with small pegs of _chonta_, projecting in the -inside about half an inch; a quantity of small hard beans are put into -it, and the two ends are closed. The instrument is played upon by -holding it with both hands, one at each end, and shaking it, so that the -music produced is sometimes like that which is intended to imitate rain -on an English stage. The _marimba_ is made by fastening two broad pieces -of cane together at the extremities, each from six to ten feet long; a -number of pieces of hollow cane are then suspended between these, from -two feet long and five inches in diameter, to four inches long and two -in diameter, resembling a gigantic pandean pipe; across the upper part -of these canes very thin pieces of chonta are laid, which rest on the -frame without touching the pipes, and these are slightly fastened with a -cotton thread; the instrument is suspended from the roof of the house, -and is generally played by two men, who stand on the opposite sides, -each having two small sticks, with knobs made of coutchouc, with which -they strike on the cross pieces of chonta, and different tunes are -produced, according to the size of the pendant tube of cane over which -the chonta is laid. Some marimbas are well made, and the diapason not -very irregular; rude as the instrument is, I have often been pleased -with the sound of it, especially when floating down a river, and my -palanqueros have sung their native airs to the tune. This instrument, -which is sometimes accompanied with a guitar, cheers the natives in -their revels, and is not unfrequently employed to wake their souls to -divine contemplation at high mass. - -After having remained a short time at the town, or city, for this title -has been conferred on it although it only contains (1809) ninety-three -houses, I ascended the river again to the Embarcadero de Maldonado, for -the purpose of observing the labour and the time it would require. Our -canoe was fifteen feet long, and was manned with two palanqueros, who -with light poles about ten feet long impelled the canoe forward, always -keeping near the margin of the river; besides these I had with me my -servant and two soldiers, my bed and some provisions. I observed that on -an average the men worked nine hours in the twenty-four, and on the -sixth day we arrived at the Embarcadero, having been only fifty hours on -the passage; but the natives informed me that it generally took more -time, the current not being so rapid at this period of the year as at -others. The distance from the Embarcadero to Quito being eighteen -Spanish leagues might with the greatest ease be travelled even on foot -in two days. Thus in cases of emergency an express might be sent from -the city to the coast in three days, or perhaps less, and one from the -coast to the capital in five, even when the river is swollen; whereas -from Quito to Guayaquil, or vice versa, it requires at least seven days -in summer, and in winter it is often absolutely impossible to fix the -time. From Esmeraldas to Quito goods might be conveyed in six or seven -days, during the greater part of the year, while it requires eleven or -twelve days from Guayaquil during the dry season, and during the rainy -season it is impossible to carry them. I have been rather diffuse on -this point, but I consider it one of great importance at present (1825), -owing to the changes that have already taken place in this important -part of the ex-colonies, not only so far as regards the communication -between the coast and the capital, but because the locality and produce -of the province of Esmeraldas constitute it one of those that most -deserve the immediate attention of my speculative countrymen. - -On my return I examined the mouth of the river Esmeraldas, and found it -quite unfit for an anchorage, owing partly to its great depth in the -channel, which is a hundred and forty fathoms, and to a bar that extends -from the north shore, as well as to the rapidity of the current, which -runs at the rate of four miles an hour, even when the waters are low. -The mouth of the river is nine hundred and seventy yards wide; it is -situated in 51ī N. lat. and 79° 35ī W. long. and may be discovered at -the distance of six or seven leagues from the shore, by the colour of -the muddy water which runs from it, and marks the surface water of the -sea. - -Two leagues from the mouth of the river stands the city of Esmeraldas; -it is on a rising ground, and most delightfully situated, enjoying a -much cooler temperature than what could possibly be expected in the -vicinity of the equator. This is probably caused by the coldness of the -waters of the river, which, as they flow, communicate a part of their -coolness to the atmosphere, and keep up a perpetual current of fresh -air. The town is entirely free from that great annoyance in most hot -climates, the mosquitos; owing perhaps to the total absence of marshy -land or swamps in its vicinity, and to the breezes, which, continually -blowing, are so destructive to those insects. - -A road through the woods leads from Esmeraldas to Atacames, a distance -of five leagues. Atacames is a little town near the sea, having a small -river of fresh water, which empties itself into the ocean on the south -side. A projecting headland forms a convenient roadstead, which has good -anchorage, and owing to the universal serenity of the weather the port -may be considered a safe one. Two leagues to the northward of this place -there is a high bluff headland, called Morro Grande, which with the -Morro de Atacames forms the bay, the best anchorage in which is under -the headland of Atacames. The landing on the beach close to the town is -generally good, but when the contrary happens there is another and a -better to the westward of Atacames. - -The town is composed of about thirty houses, built like those of the -Puná, having only an upper story. The inhabitants employ themselves in -the cultivation of their chacras, scattered along the side of the small -rivulet of Atacames, which is generally navigable for canoes about five -leagues from the town. More attention has been paid here to the -cultivation of cocoa than at Esmeraldas, and considerable profit has -been derived from it. In 1805, an officer in the Spanish navy employed -several of the natives to fell timber for the Lima market, one small -cargo of which was exported, but through the interest of the Guayaquil -merchants the law of _puertos no abilitados_, close ports, was enforced, -and an end was put to the trade. The inhabitants of Atacames are of the -same race with those of Esmeraldas; but they do not speak the same -language--they make use of the Spanish, and consider themselves Spanish -population. - -Near the beach there are several very lofty coco-nut palms, and a great -abundance of lime trees, whence any quantity of their fruit or acid -might be obtained; but as the trees are intermixed with the manzanillo, -the utmost precaution is necessary in order to prevent strangers from -poisoning themselves with the fruit. The tree is very similar to a low -bushy apple tree, and the fruit has the appearance of a small apple; but -it is so extremely poisonous, that if a person inadvertently taste it, a -universal swelling of the body and death are the inevitable -consequences. The poisonous qualities of this tree are so great, that if -any one incautiously avail himself of its shade, sickness ensues, and -death would follow should he sleep under it in the evening. When the -natives cannot obtain the poison from Maynas for their puas, they use -the sap of the manzanillo, procured by making incisions in the bark of -the tree; but the use of it is attended with considerable risk, and the -poison is not so certain to kill the game; besides, the natives are -averse to use game as food when killed by it. - -From Atacames to the mouth of the Esmeraldas river, a distance of four -leagues, goods might be conveyed and put on board canoes for their -passage up to the town, or to the Embarcadero, where, if the importance -of mercantile pursuits be duly considered by the government, facilities -may be given at a small expence to the navigation of this river. The -greater part of the south side is favourable to the formation of a road -as far as the confluence of the river Blanco with that called Piti. - -To the northward of the river Esmeraldas there are several small rivers -which empty themselves into the sea; and at the embouchures of each -there are a few houses. At the distance of seven leagues stands Rio -Verde, consisting of about twenty houses and a small chapel. The river -is navigable for canoes about eight leagues, is full of fish, and on its -banks are many houses and plantations. Seven leagues from Rio Verde is -the river Tola, and about two leagues from the mouth is the town of the -same name, containing about a hundred houses and a parish church. -Between the town and the sea there is a very extensive savana, on which -are kept upwards of five hundred head of horned cattle. - -When the road called de Malbucho was opened by the president of Quito in -1804, as a communication between the capital and the coast, this was -intended to have been the port; but on examination it was found, that -the mouth of the river was almost choked by a sand-bank, and a schooner -sent down by the Viceroy of Peru to examine the port foundered on the -bar. To the northward of La Tola there is a convenient harbour, called -Limones, and another, at a short distance to the northward of this, is -called Pianguapi, or San Pedro; all these communicate by an estuary, -which receives its fresh water from the river Tola. - -The country adjoining the line of coast reaching from Atacames to La -Tola is entirely covered with wood of an excellent quality both for the -cabinet-maker and the architect; for the former the principal varieties -are the caobano, a species of mahogany, very large, and in great -abundance; ebony, cascol, a hard wood, completely black, and very large; -pusilde, of the colour and almost of the consistency of ivory; of this -wood they make billiard balls: there is also red sandal wood, of a -beautiful lively red colour, and very fragrant; the bark contains such -an abundance of aromatic resin, that when heated by the sun it exudes -and scents the air to the distance of five hundred yards from the tree. -The natives use the resin dissolved in rum to cure wounds. Here too is -the guayacan, of a green hue, with dark brown veins: this wood is -remarkably hard, the tree is very lofty and straight, and on this -account the natives generally choose it for the upright posts which -support their houses: when kept continually wet for eight or ten months -it petrifies, and it is a common thing for the natives to dig at the -foot of an old post, and break off pieces of the petrified wood for -flints. - -For architectural purposes timber grows in great luxuriance, and to an -extraordinary size. There is no doubt that ere long the dock-yard of -Guayaquil and the Peruvian markets must be supplied with guachapeli, -cedar, robles, a kind of oak, marias, balsams, laurels, and other trees -from the woods of Esmeraldas, which as yet may be said to be untouched. - -Besides the varieties just mentioned, there is an abundance of ceibos, -balsas, and _matapalos_, which are of an enormous size, and supply -timber for canoes and rafts. The matapalo, kill tree, is so called -because it entwines itself with any other trees that are near it, and by -depriving them of their sap, or preventing the circulation, destroys -them. I have seen several of these trees, which three feet above the -ground measured upwards of twenty-five feet in circumference. The wood -is soft and light, and of no other use than that to which it is applied -by the natives. A kind of gum exudes from the bark, or is drawn from it -by making incisions, and in many parts of Peru and Colombia is used as -an antidote for ruptures. - -The coutchouc tree is quite common in almost all parts of the forests; -it is large but not very lofty, and the wood is entirely useless; -however, the tree produces what is of much greater value to the natives: -the bark of the trunk is taken off and subjected to repeated washings; -they beat it with small stones until the fibres are regularly extended, -so that the whole is about one-eighth of an inch in thickness; it is -then dried, and used as a bed, sometimes as a curtain, a shelter in the -woods against the sun or rain, or as a sail for their canoes. Bark when -thus prepared is called a _damajagua_. Some of them measure two and a -half yards long and from one to two broad; the larger ones are sold for -three or four dollars each. - -The coutchouc, _jebe_, as it is called by the natives, is procured from -the tree by making incisions in the bark; the substance which exudes is -at first perfectly white and of the consistency of cream; it is received -in large calabashes, and allowed to remain a day,or two, in which time -it becomes thicker; it is then poured on the leaves of the plantain or -vijao, and again allowed to remain a day or two; it is afterwards made -up into rolls about a yard long and three inches in diameter. These -rolls constitute a considerable branch of commerce, and generally sell -at Esmeraldas for two dollars the dozen; but in the mines on the coast -of Chocó they sell for three times that sum. The coutchouc is used as a -substitute for candles: a roll of it is generally cut length-ways into -four parts, but before it is lighted the piece is rolled up in a green -vijao leaf, to prevent it from melting or taking fire down the sides. - -Oranges, limes, lemons, pine-apples, mameis, sapotes, nisperos, with all -the fruits mentioned at Guayaquil grow here in abundance, and some of -them to a state of great perfection. The madroņo is a fruit peculiar to -this country; it is similar in shape and colour to a small lemon; the -pulp is white and of an agreeable sub-acid taste, enveloping three large -seeds. - -Many varieties of palms grow in the woods; the coco palm, the _palmito_ -or cabbage palm, the coroso palm, which grows to the height of eighteen -or twenty feet. This tree has a trunk about three feet in circumference, -and is covered with an immense number of long slender prickles: the stem -to which the leaves are attached and the nuts are covered in the same -manner. An agreeable beverage is made from this palm, by boiling the -leaves and the stem to which the bunch of nuts is attached; it is at -first sweet, but by fermentation it acquires a vinous taste. The nuts -are eaten while green and tender, and have a taste resembling that of -the green French olives; when ripe they have the appearance of ivory, -and are used at Quito by the sculptors for small busts, statues, or -images. The chonta palm is remarkably useful, the wood is extremely hard -and elastic, and of it the natives make bows, sorvetanas, puas, and -lances. - -The animals which are found in the woods are the jaguar, three varieties -of the cavia, four of monkeys, like those at Guayaquil, deer, tortoises, -iguanas, snakes as at Guayaquil, with the addition of the _dormilona_, -for whose bite the natives possess no antidote. Here is also the boa -constrictor, called by the natives _sobre cama_; however this tribe is -not numerous, and accidents seldom occur; the inhabitants generally take -care to have poultry and hogs about their houses, because these animals -are great enemies to the snakes. There are several varieties of ants and -bees; of the latter are two, one called the _moquingana_, which form -their nests by attaching them to the branches of the large trees; the -honey is very palatable, and the natives employ themselves in purifying -the wax, for which they find a good market at Quito; the other is the -_amonanas_, which make their nests under ground. To find these nests, -the natives, whenever they observe a number of the bees, besprinkle some -of the plants with molasses, and follow them when laden with it on their -return home; this generally leads to a discovery. Great quantities of -wax are procured from the nests; it is of a deep orange colour, but with -a little labour it is rendered very white. - -The province of Esmeraldas derives its name from a mine of emeralds -which is found at no great distance from the town; it may be approached -by ascending the river Bichile, which enters the Esmeraldas river on the -south side. I never visited it, owing to the superstitious dread of the -natives, who assured me, that it was enchanted and guarded by an -enormous dragon, which poured forth thunder and lightning on those who -dared to ascend the river. The existence of an emerald mine was proved -to me by the alcalde, who gave me three raw emeralds, which had been -found by his sons on the sand at the mouth of the river Bichile. Gold -mines exist in this province, there being scarcely a river in which gold -is not found among the sand on its shores: however none of them are -worked at present (1809). - -The importance of this part of South America has induced me to be more -particular in its description than might appear necessary for a tract of -country almost uninhabited. Its capability of becoming of extensive -utility to the mercantile world, of forming the principal entrance to -the kingdom of Quito, and of vieing ere long with Guayaquil; its soil -and climate; the ease with which indians, from the well populated -provinces of Quito, might be procured for the formation of colonies; the -extensive markets both along the coast and in the interior for its -various productions, besides many branches well calculated for -exportation, must forcibly attract the attention of all those who are -inclined to speculate on the rising interests of the western parts of -the new world. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - Visit to Cayapas....Village....Inhabitants....Houses and Furniture - ....Visit to the Malabas, Wild Indians....Arrival at the Vijia.... - Interview with the Cacique, Family of....Tribe of the Malabas.... - Tradition of the Origin of....Dress of....Manners....Laws....Return - to Cayapas....Visit Tumaco....Description of....Barbacoas.... - Description of....Gold Mines....Manner of Working them....Leave the - Coast, Malbucho Road....River Mira...._Puentes de Maroma_, and - _Taravitas_...._Piquigua_....Arrive at Ibarra, and Return to Rio - Verde and Esmeraldas....Ascend the River Quinindi....Boa - Constrictors....Santo Domingo de los Colorados....Indians....Dress - ....Houses....Food....Cocaniguas....Quito. - - -During my stay on the coast I visited the new village of Cayapas: it is -composed of indians, living entirely free from the controul of any -Spanish governor or any authority. So ignorant were they of the forms of -the Spanish administration, that they only considered the royal audience -to be superior to their own alcalde. They did not even know what the -royal audience was, and they repeatedly called me the royal audience, -having mistaken the expression of the lieutenant-governor of La Tola, -who told them the royal audience expected they would attend on me, and -procure for me whatever I might want. - -After a tedious journey up the river Tola, in a canoe, managed by four -indians, I arrived at New Cayapas, and was received by the alcalde, who -insisted on my taking possession of his baston, insignia of authority, -and retaining it as long as I remained with them: he ordered the indians -to obey me, and they advanced one after another to kiss the head of the -baston, and accompanied me to the house of the alcalde, which was -situated about thirty yards from the river side. - -Cayapas scarcely deserves the name of a hamlet, there being only a small -church, the house for the parish priest, and two others; but the -situation is most beautiful: the small river, navigable for canoes, the -rich foliage of the large trees which overhang it, the branches in some -parts meeting each other, the enormous banana leaves, the stately coco -palm, and the verdant gamalote, every where enrich the scene. Houses are -scattered along the sides of the river, each having its small plantation -of sugar-cane, yucas, and camotes, its hogs and its poultry. - -The indians are low in stature, very muscular, and of a lighter colour -than those of the interior. The dress of the men is a pair of drawers, -reaching from the waist to the middle of the thighs, and sometimes a -poncho. The women have a piece of blue cloth wrapped round the waist, -which reaches down to their knees, and a profusion of glass beads hangs -round their necks; but the children to the age of eight or nine years -are all naked. Both men and women paint their bodies with achiote, to -which they sometimes add a few dots or stripes of indigo, manufactured -by themselves from the plant which grows wild in every part of the -country where the shade of the trees does not destroy it. - -The furniture of their houses is composed of a long bench made of canes, -which serves as a table, a sofa, or a bed; damajaguas, which serve as in -Esmeraldas, and the never-to-be-dispensed-with toldo, with curtains to -avert the attacks of the mosquitos at night. Their cooking utensils are -manufactured by themselves; their plates and dishes are the shells of -calabashes, their cups those of the tutuma, and their spoons of the -muscle: nature having thus provided them with the necessary equipage for -their food, in the same manner as she has with the ground for a table, -and the plantain leaves for cloths and napkins, which without any -expence may be renewed at every meal. - -The principal employment of the natives is hunting, fishing, and -cultivating their small patches of sugar-cane, yucas, camotes, and -gourds. From the leaves of the aloe they make very fine thread, pita, in -considerable quantities. This article is either sent to Quito or to the -coast, where it finds a ready market, and procures for the indians the -few clothes which they require, as well as salt, which is brought from -the Punta de Santa Elena, in large canoes, and piraguas, (canoes with -planked sides and a sail), by the inhabitants of La Tola, Atacames, and -other places. - -From the information which I had of the existence of a tribe of wild -indians, called Malabas, who reside on the river de San Miguel, which -joins that of Cayapas, I determined on visiting them, contrary to the -advice of my friends at La Tola. I accordingly requested a small canoe, -and two indians at Cayapas, and my request was reluctantly complied -with; however, on promising the alcalde a reward in the name of the -royal audience, I was equipped with what I wanted. Having with me a -considerable quantity of beads and hawks' bills, I was not afraid of -meeting with a kind reception: my servant declined accompanying me, and -remained at Cayapas. - -I left my friendly alcalde, in possession of his baston, at about five -o'clock in the morning, and began to ascend the river with my two -palanqueros, who sometimes were obliged to use a considerable degree of -exertion to stem the current with a canoe that only measured eleven feet -in length, and was barely sufficient to carry us; and it is certain that -had they not been very expert, and I very quiet, we should have been -frequently upset. At four o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at the -house of the _vijia_, or look-out, where we remained till the following -morning. An indian was immediately despatched to inform the Cacique that -a viracocha, white man, or child of the sun, had arrived with two -Cayapos, and wanted to see him. About ten o'clock the Cacique came in -his canoe, with the messenger that had been sent to him, and as the -language of the Malaba bears a strong resemblance to the _Quichua_, I -soon entered into conversation with him. I assured him, that mere -curiosity had led me to pay him a friendly visit, and in a short time -the old man was satisfied; we embarked together in his canoe, the two -Indians being ordered to wait my return at the vijia house. - -Before noon we arrived at the house of the alcalde, and found his family -highly delighted at his return, for the poor fellow who was sent from -the vijia had informed them, that I was a strange looking man, in a -strange dress, and that I had told him I was neither a Spaniard nor a -Creole. Although this excited the curiosity of the alcalde, it did not -alarm him, because, said he, I have been at the Spanish town of -Cotacache, and know that all white men do not come from the same place: -_this_ is perhaps as much as many travellers have to report when they -return from a grand tour. Question now followed question, without -waiting for answers; nor was the alcalde less teased than myself, it -being naturally inferred, that having been with me for two hours, he -must certainly know every thing about me. After allowing the noise to -continue for about half an hour, he ordered the females to retire, which -they did immediately. To my great surprise they went down the ladder -which we had ascended, after which they went up another at the back part -of the house; when I turned round, I observed that they were separated -from us by a division made of cane, three feet high above the floor, -where, with true female curiosity, they stood and listened, but never -spoke, except to one another in low whispers. - -The Cacique and myself now seated ourselves on a damajagua, and four -young indians stood with their backs against the partition; I again -assured the old man that curiosity alone had induced me to visit him and -his people: he replied, that probably my _curiosity_ had tempted me to -come in search of lavaderos, gold mines, or to request of him to receive -missionaries, or to force him to become tributary. Having protested that -nothing of the kind was meant, as my inquiries and conduct while among -them would evince, he begged of me to make myself happy, for I was -perfectly at liberty to remain or to leave them whenever I chose, and -that if I thought proper to send my two Cayapos home, two of his sons -should accompany me to Cayapas at any time. To this I very readily -acceded, although I did not intend to remain more than a day or two; but -I wished to tease my friends, who were anxious with regard to my safety, -and then to convince them of the goodness of man in a natural state. - -The tribe, at the head of which was Cushicagua, consisted of about two -hundred _ishcay huarango_ families, living within the distance of two -leagues of his house; besides these he assured me that a great number -of tribes were scattered about the woods lying between the Spanish -settlements in the interior and those on the coast. This information -sufficiently accounted for the reports which I had several times heard -at Quito, of smoke having been repeatedly seen ascending from different -parts of the woods to the westward of Otavalo. - -According to the tradition of the Malabas, they and the other tribes -that inhabit the woods are descendants of the Puncays of Quito; and -although the Conchocando of Lican, the supreme chief of the territory -now called Quito, became the vassal of Tupac Yupangui, they were not -conquered by that prince, for he never passed the mountains towards the -coast; and since the conquest of the country by the Spaniards, although -the Cayapos solicited a Christian priest, and became tributary to the -whites, the Malabas have as yet lived quite independent. - -The dress of the men consists of a pair of wide drawers reaching from -the waist to about the middle of the thighs, of a purple hue, which tint -or dye they procure from the bark of a tree growing in the neighbouring -woods, known at Quito under the name of _grana ponciana_, and which when -known in Europe will undoubtedly become an article of commerce. The -women are dressed in a very strange manner; a large piece of cotton -cloth is girded round the waist, two corners of the upper half cross the -breast, pass under the arms, are again brought over the shoulders, and -hang down in front almost to the waist; the two lower corners pass -between the legs, and are fastened to the back part; the whole body is -covered, and the appearance altogether is not ungraceful; the colour of -this garment is generally brown: the women have their ears perforated, -but instead of rings they use small bunches of the most beautiful -feathers they can procure, wearing another tuft of the same on their -heads. In the same manner the men often place three or four feathers -from the wing of the parrot in the _wincha_, an ornamented piece of -leather which they wear tied round their heads; both men and women -ornament their bodies with achiote, and some of the latter very -tastefully. - -Nothing could exceed the joy which these people evinced when after my -first meal with them I borrowed a pair of drawers of one of the young -men, and putting off my own clothes I substituted the drawers, and -requested the females to paint me: to this the Cacique consented, and -they immediately descended their own ladder, and ascended the other; -after a great deal of laughter, and some disputes as to the beauty of -the figures drawn on my body with this red unctious matter, I was -complimented with a kiss from each of my _damas del tocador_, and told, -that if I were not so white I should be very handsome. I returned the -kindness which I had received by distributing among the females beads, -bells, and combs; I also gave to Cushicagua my spoon, knife, and fork, -and to the young men two glass bottles. My watch was the cause of -universal astonishment, the motion of the seconds' hand when lying on -the floor astounded them, conceiving that while I held the watch in my -hand I communicated the motion to it: when I applied the watch to their -ears their amazement was expressed in the most boisterous manner--they -shouted and jumped, and then listened again! and at last it was -concluded that I had a bird shut up in the little case, and that it was -endeavouring to release itself by pecking a hole. I then opened it, and -every one as he peeped laughed, and exclaimed, _manan, manan, chy -trapichote_--no, no, it is a sugar-cane mill, this being the only piece -of machinery they had ever seen, and the only resemblance consisted in -its rotatory motion. - -These Indians have two meals a day, one in the morning the other in the -evening, composed chiefly of plantains, bananas, yucas, camotes, a -little flesh meat procured in the woods, and fish, of which there is a -great abundance in the river, to catch which they use the same means as -the Esmeraldeņos. - -I asked the old Cacique what crimes he had to punish among his subjects; -he told me, very few: theft he punished, he said, by taking from the -thief double what he had stolen, which he gave to the person injured; if -the thief could not satisfy the fine, he was delivered to the plaintiff -as a slave until his services might satisfy the claim. Adultery he -punished by obliging the man to maintain the woman as long as the -husband might think proper, or else by keeping him in the stocks, which -were under the house, till the husband begged his release. Murder, said -he, never happens among us; and all small crimes I punish by flogging -the criminals myself. - -After remaining two days I left the Cacique of the Malabas, and returned -to Cayapas, his two sons being my palanqueros or canoe men. On leaving -him, he begged of me to send him some salt, which is very scarce among -them, and that when I was tired of living among the whites to come and -live at Malaba, assuring me, that I should have one of his daughters for -a wife, and be the Cacique. When I stood on the river side all the -females came to me and kissed me, and as the canoe floated down the -stream they all joined in a farewell ditty, which was answered by my two -young Indians. Nature claimed her tribute, and I paid it: I turned my -face to wipe away my tears, and blushed that I was ashamed at shedding -them. - -On my arrival at Cayapas, I found that the cura of the Tola, on hearing -of my trip to Malabas, had come up to Cayapas with my four soldiers, -with the intention of demanding me of the Cacique; however, to his great -joy, my arrival made this unnecessary: his surprize, and that of my -soldiers and servant at seeing me step ashore in the garb of a Malaba -cannot be expressed: to complete the costume I had borrowed the lance, -made of chonta, of one of the indians. I sent to the kind Cacique -Cushicagua as much salt as the canoe could carry, and gave some trifles -to his two sons, who took leave of me in a very tender manner: they came -to me separately, and each laying his hands on my shoulders, kissed my -breast and retired. How easily such men might be reduced to what is -called civilized society! But would they be benefited by it? Would they -be more virtuous? Would they be more happy? - -From Cayapas I returned to La Tola, and thence proceeded by the estuary -of Limones to Pianguapi, and crossing a small gulf I arrived in the -evening at Tumaco. This is an island in the bay, called Gorgona, which -takes its name from that of the Cacique Gorgona, who governed the island -on the first arrival of the Spaniards. The bay has a very good anchorage -for small vessels, but large ones generally anchor at the outer -roadstead, called el Morro. The island of Tumaco is about two miles long -and one broad, remarkably fruitful, and well cultivated, abounding in -tropical fruit trees. The town is formed of about a hundred houses; they -stand on the western side of the island, facing the anchorage, and -present a very beautiful view. The inhabitants are generally mulattos, -but call themselves Spaniards. It is the residence of a -lieutenant-governor, and is of itself a parish. Besides the island of -Tumaco there are in the same bay the islands called el Viudo, la Viuda, -el Morro, and Placer de Pollas. The river Mira enters the sea here at -three embouchures, called Boca Grande, Rio Claro, and Mira. - -Tumaco is the sea-port to the city and province of Barbacoas, which is -approached by an estuary; at the head of this the canoes are dragged -across a piece of low ground, called el Arrastradero, and then launched -in the river which leads to Barbacoas, called el Telembi. - -Barbacoas was founded in the year 1640 by the Jesuit Lucas de la Cueva, -who was a missionary sent from Quito for the conversion of the tribe of -indians called Barbacoas. After some time it was discovered that the -sand along the side of the river contained grains of gold: this induced -several persons to settle in the neighbourhood, and to employ themselves -in collecting the precious metal. Their success brought down others from -Quito and different parts of the interior, and a town was formed, which -was afterwards honoured with the title of city. - -The climate of Barbacoas is extremely warm, and the rains continue -during the greater part of the year, so as to preclude the cultivation -of the land; hence all kinds of provisions are extremely dear, the -supplies being chiefly brought from the Province de los Pastos on the -shoulders of men, because it is impossible in the present state of the -road for any beast of burthen to travel; and so accustomed are the -carriers to their laborious way of living, that when, in 1804, it was -proposed to open a road, those men used all their influence to oppose -the execution of the plan; and as it was not of any pecuniary importance -to the Government, it was abandoned. - -Among the inhabitants of Barbacoas are some very respectable families, -and many rich ones, all of which are employed in the lavaderos; but the -principal labour is done by negro slaves, who are here treated with -greater cruelty by their masters than in any other part of the colonies -that I visited; nakedness is of little importance to them in such a -climate, but hunger in all countries requires the antidote, food, and -this is really distributed to them very sparingly. - -The city is the capital of the province of the same name, and the -residence of the lieutenant-governor. Here is also a _casa de -fundicion_, where the gold which is collected at the lavaderos is -melted, and where it pays the royal fifth. It is also the residence of -the vicar of the province, who exercises the ecclesiastical jurisdiction -of the whole coast belonging to the bishopric of Quito; the cabildo has -six regidores, and two alcaldes annually elected. - -I returned from Barbacoas to Tumaco, and thence to La Tola, but before I -took my departure for Quito, by the road of Malbucho, I went to the -Playa de Oro, a gold mine belonging to the Valencias. At that time -(1809) this was one of the most popular mines, and I visited it for the -purpose of observing the manner of working them on a large scale, which -I had not then seen. - -I have already mentioned, that the gold is found in a stratum of yellow -or orange-coloured earth, of different dimensions, but seldom more than -five or six feet deep, the inferior limit being a stratum of indurated -clay, called by the miners _laxa_. The first object after the site is -selected is, to form an embanked reservoir at the highest part of the -_capa_ or stratum, for the purpose of collecting the rain water; the -next is to throw aside all kinds of rubbish to the lateral limits of the -stratum; the slaves then begin to dig the ground or pick it over, -throwing aside all the large stones, after which the water which is -collected is allowed to run over the ground, while the slaves are -employed in forming with it and the earth a kind of puddle; after this -the stones and rubbish are again collected and separated, the water is -turned on, and in its course washes away the earth: these operations are -performed till the laxa begins to appear. The water is then conducted -along the sides by small channels cut for this purpose, and it is kept -running along the sides while the slaves are continually stirring it, so -that the earth is carried off by the water. When the whole is nearly -washed away the laxa is carefully swept, and every small crevice closely -examined, and a small channel is formed along the middle of the -lavadero, where the water is allowed to run down it; but particular care -is necessary not to make any perforations in the laxa or indurated clay, -as it might be the cause of a great loss of gold. The last washing is -generally performed in the presence of the master, as the larger grains, -_pepitas_, begin to be visible. After all the earth has been separated -by the repeated washings, the gold mixed with sand, iron sand, and -platina, is swept into the small channel, and collected by placing a -piece of board across it at a short distance from the reservoir, and -allowing a small portion of water to run for the purpose of cleaning out -all the crevices; the first quantity is then put into a trough or canoe, -and carried to the house of the miner; and another operation similar to -the last takes place with another portion of the earth, and so on till -the whole of the gold is collected. After the miner has allowed what was -carried to his house to dry, he then spreads it on a table, and with a -loadstone or magnet he separates from it all the iron sand, which is -always very abundant, and placing the gold, platina, and sand in a -shallow trough, he allows a small stream of water to pass over it, -keeping the trough in motion till the water has washed away the sand. -The last operation is to separate the gold from the grains of platina, -which is done with a small stick, a pen, or a piece of wire, with which -the platina is picked from the gold. Owing to the enormous duty imposed -by the Spanish government on the platina, which rendered it almost -invaluable, the miners usually throw it away. - -After visiting Playa de Oro I left the coast, and proceeded on my -journey towards Quito. The first part of the road is by the river Tola -to Carondolet, or Naris de Peņa, which was formerly the name of the -landing place. The river is not so rapid as that of Esmeraldas; but it -has the disadvantage of being so shallow near a place called the -Porquera, that loaded canoes are forced to stop there, or unload, pass -the sand banks, and load again. Carondolet is a small village, bearing -the name of its founder; from this place a road forty feet wide was -opened to Malbucho, a small village at the foot of the Cordilleras, -thirteen leagues from Carondolet; _tambos_, or lodging-houses, are built -on the road, four leagues from each other, and at Licta, four leagues -from Malbucho, two negroes and their families, belonging to the -government, are stationed in charge of the repairs of the tambos. - -Owing, as I have before mentioned, to the inadvertency of cutting down -the large trees for the formation of this road, the brush-wood sprang up -with increased vigour, and the roots of the large trees produced -numberless young suckers, so that in a very short period what was -intended as a road became quite impassable, and was entirely abandoned -by travellers. - -At Licta the river Mira presents itself on the north side of the road, -dashing along with astonishing rapidity, while a dense mist rises from -the foam; in some places the river is six hundred feet wide, and in -others, where the rocks have opposed its ravages, it is not more than -one hundred. The Mira derives its first waters from the lake San Peblo, -and afterwards receives those of Pisco, Angel, Taguanda, Escudillas, -Caguasqui, and Chiles, which flow from the mountains of Pelliso; it -afterwards receives those of Camunixi, Gualpi, Nulpi, and Puelpi, and -enters the Pacific Ocean by nine mouths, between the Point de Manglares -and Tumaco. The Mira divides the province of Esmeraldas from that of -Barbacoas. - -On the sides of the river Mira there are many farms and plantations of -sugar cane, scattered along from the Villa de Ibarra to San Pedro, and -on the north side there are many small houses and plantations, even -lower down the river, and as the road is on the south side, the natives -have to avail themselves of _puentes de maroma_, and _taravitas_. The -puentes de maroma, or swing bridges, I have described at Cochas, on a -general principle, but those used to cross the Mira are merely for foot -passengers; they are formed of the stems of the creeper called piquigua, -which are generally about half an inch in diameter, and sometimes from -fifty to a hundred yards long; they generally spring up under large -trees, or creep up the trunk and along the branches, and hang down again -to the ground, but do not take root; they then ascend another, or -perhaps the same tree again, or, carried by the wind, stretch along from -a branch of one tree to that of another; so that where they are common, -the trees in a forest have the appearance of the masts of ships with -their rigging. The stem is remarkably fibrous and tough, and for the -purpose of constructing bridges, it is first beat, and then twisted, by -which means it forms a kind of cord, and five, six or more of these -combined make a rope, the duration of which is almost indefinite, for -the age of some of the bridges across the Mira is unknown. Some of these -puentes de maroma are from one to two hundred feet long, and only three -feet wide; the bottom is generally covered with pieces of bamboo, -_huadhua_, laid crosswise; hand ropes made of piquigua are also fastened -to the side of the bridge to prevent passengers from falling into the -river; this would otherwise be inevitable from the motion of the bridges -when any one crosses them, for some of them not only spring under the -feet, but by hanging loose they swing; the ends are generally fastened -to trees standing near the river side, or else to large posts placed for -this purpose. I have seen some of these puentes formed just like a -ladder; and they are crossed by stepping from one bar to another, with -the assistance of one hand rope, while a foaming stream is roaring at -the depth of eighty or a hundred feet below. - -The _taravitas_ are formed by securing the two ends of a rope, generally -made of raw hide, but sometimes of piquigua, to rocks, trees, or posts, -on the opposite sides of the river, the rope passing either over a -pulley, or through a ring; to this they attach another rope, which -first passes through a pulley or ring fastened on each side the river; -to the pulley or ring, on the large rope, a basket made of raw hide is -suspended, and is called a _capacho_; in this a person stands, and by -pulling the small rope he drags himself along, or else he is drawn -across by persons stationed on the other side of the stream; all kinds -of goods are passed over in this manner, and for horses or cattle slings -are used, being suspended by a hook to the ring or pulley. - -Having arrived at Ibarra, circumstances obliged me to return to the -coast; I sent my escort to Quito, being perfectly satisfied that a -military guard was quite unnecessary, and taking two guides, I crossed -by an almost unfrequented route some extensive forests to the mine of -Cachiyacu, belonging to Don Pedro Muņos. This is a gold mine similar to -Playa de Oro, situated on the sides of a small river, whence the mine -derives its name. I here added another guide to my party, and by a -solitary path arrived at the Rio Verde, about two leagues from the -mouth, where it empties itself into the Pacific Ocean. I proceeded on to -Esmeraldas, and ascended the river to the mouth of the Quinindi, for the -purpose of exploring the road from Santo Domingo de los Colorados to -Quito. The river Quinindi is navigable for small canoes; it is generally -about fifteen feet wide, the current neither rapid nor deep, and it -abounds with excellent fish. To my great surprize and delight, on -entering the mouth of this river, I saw two boa constrictors basking on -a sand-bank, very near to the edge of the water, and we passed them at -the distance of about twenty feet. One appeared to be at least -twenty-five feet long, the other about half that length. They were both -of them in the most beautiful posture that can be imagined, their heads -raised, and their bodies forming festoons, or arches; those formed by -the greater one were six, the largest in the centre being about two feet -high; the smaller formed only five arches, and these much lower than the -other. Their colours were a most brilliant yellow, a deep green, and -stripes along the back of a dark brown hue. The tremulous motion of -these animals, occasioned probably by the posture in which they had -placed themselves, gave to their colours a most imposing effect; the -brilliancy was heightened too by the rays of the sun darting full upon -them; I felt as if under a charm, and I sat gazing on them in a -transport of delight for more than half an hour. Two African negroes -and my servant, a native of Quito, were almost frantic with fear; but -the two Esmeraldeņos, my palanqueros, expressed no other emotion than -that of sorrow, at not being prepared to kill them, and to smoke their -flesh, which, certainly, if as good eating as that of other snakes which -I had several times tasted, was a great loss to them. - -As we passed along the river almost innumerable monkeys of the small -brown kind crowded the tops of the trees, dinning our ears with their -unceasing chattering, and throwing down leaves upon us till the surface -of the river was nearly covered; however the two Esmeraldeņos with their -sorbetanas killed upwards of fifty, out of which we chose the fattest, -and made an excellent dinner, selecting it in preference to any of the -dried provisions which I had with me. On the second day after our -entrance on the Quinindi we landed, and in three hours arrived at the -house of the cura of Santo Domingo de los Colorados. - -The settlement or reduction of the Colorados is merely the house of the -cura, and a small church; the indians live dispersed in different parts -of the surrounding woods, generally on the banks of the small rivers, -and only appear on the Sundays and holidays at mass. These indians, -like the Malabas and Cayapos, trace their origin to the times of the -Conchocandos of Lican: they also state, that they were never subject to -the Incas, and only to the Spaniards within the last thirty years -(1810). They are not tributary, but each indian from the age of eighteen -pays one dollar annually to the parish priest, who has no other stipend. -Including the two annexed _semi paroquias_ of San Miguel and Cocaniguas, -the curacy contains about three thousand indians, but the curate seldom -receives more than eight hundred dollars a year, or rather the amount of -eight hundred. The indians always pay their quota in raw wax, at half a -dollar a pound, which is sent to Quito for sale; but a considerable -profit is derived from it, because it is worth a dollar a pound when -purified. - -The indians of Santo Domingo are called red _colorados_ from the -quantity of achiote with which their bodies are besmeared; in their -persons they resemble the Malabas; the dress of the men is composed of a -pair of very short white drawers, and a white poncho about -three-quarters of a yard square; their hair is cut round and hangs like -a mop, but it is confined to the head with a fillet of silver lace, or a -thin slip of sheet silver; round their necks, the small part of their -arms, and below their knees, they wear other slips of silver, about an -inch broad, and to the lower edge a great number of small silver drops -hang loose, forming altogether a very pleasing appearance. The women -wear a piece of flannel or cotton cloth, wrapped round the waist, and -reaching below the knees, with a profusion of beads round their necks, -wrists, and ankles; white and pale blue glass beads are held in great -estimation among them; they plat their hair in long tresses, and allow -them to hang loose. - -The houses of the indians at Santo Domingo are very similar to the sheds -which my carriers used to make in the woods for a night's shelter; being -nothing better than a few slender poles placed in a slanting position, -supported by others, like the roof of a house, having only one side -covered to exclude the rain. - -These indians cultivate capsicum, aji, to a very large extent, and find -a ready market for it at Quito, where they also carry fruit, fresh fish -caught in the rivers, and wax taken from the nests of the Moquingana -bees. Their food is principally composed of plantains, ground nuts, -maize, yucas, fish, and game. - -From Santo Domingo I pursued my route to Quito, passing through -Cocaniguas, and crossing the southern skirts of Pichincha by the Alto de -San Juan, having, in three months, traversed the forests lying between -the capital and the coast, in search of a new road of more easy -communication between these two places than that from Guayaquil. The -road recommended by Don Pedro Maldonado is undoubtedly the best in every -respect, and I have since had the satisfaction to know, that my report -has hastened the opening of it, which will add greatly to the advantage -of the inhabitants, to the ease and convenience of travellers, and will -facilitate the carriage of merchandize; so that I may hope that I have -added my mite towards increasing the prosperity of one of the richest -capitals of the new world, by assisting to produce the means by which -its intercourse may be rendered more easy and expeditious with the old. - - -END OF VOLUME II. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Historical and descriptive narrative -of twenty years' residence in South America (Vol 2 of 3), by William Bennet Stevenson - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RESIDENCE IN SOUTH AMERICA *** - -***** This file should be named 55777-8.txt or 55777-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/7/7/55777/ - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Martin Pettit and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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B. Stevenson. - </title> - <style type="text/css"> - - p { margin-top: .75em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .75em; - } - - p.bold {text-align: center; font-weight: bold;} - p.bold2 {text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 150%;} - - h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; - } - h1 span, h2 span { display: block; text-align: center; } - #id1 { font-size: smaller } - - - hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; - } - - hr.smler { - width: 15%; - margin-top: 0.5em; - margin-bottom: 0.5em; - margin-left: 42.5%; - margin-right: 42.5%; - clear: both; - } - - body{margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; - } - - table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; border-collapse: collapse; border: none; text-align: right;} - - .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - text-indent: 0px; - } /* page numbers */ - - .center {text-align: center;} - .smaller {font-size: smaller;} - .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - .mynote { background-color: #DDE; color: black; padding: .5em; margin-left: 20%; - margin-right: 20%; } /* colored box for notes at beginning of file */ - .space-above {margin-top: 3em;} - .right {text-align: right;} - .left {text-align: left;} - - .poem {display: inline-block; text-align: left;} - .poem br {display: none;} - .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} - .poem div {margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem div.i4 {margin-left: 4em;} - .poem div.i7 {margin-left: 7em;} - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Historical and descriptive narrative of -twenty years' residence in South America (Vol 2 of 3), by William Bennet Stevenson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Historical and descriptive narrative of twenty years' residence in South America (Vol 2 of 3) - Containing travels in Arauco, Chile, Peru, and Colombia, - with an account of the revolution, its rise, progress, and - results - -Author: William Bennet Stevenson - -Release Date: October 19, 2017 [EBook #55777] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RESIDENCE IN SOUTH AMERICA *** - - - - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Martin Pettit and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class = "mynote"><p class="center">Transcriber's Note:<br /><br /> -Obvious typographic errors have been corrected.<br /></p></div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><a name="cover.jpg" id="cover.jpg"></a><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/ia000.jpg" alt="YUMBO INDIAN. INDIAN OF THE COLORADS" /></div> - -<p class="bold">YUMBO INDIAN. INDIAN OF THE COLORADS.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p> - -<p class="bold">A</p> - -<p class="bold">HISTORICAL</p> - -<p class="bold">AND</p> - -<p class="bold2">DESCRIPTIVE NARRATIVE</p> - -<p class="bold">OF</p> - -<h1>TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCE<br /><br />IN<br /><br />SOUTH AMERICA,</h1> - -<p class="bold space-above"><i>IN THREE VOLUMES</i>;</p> - -<p class="bold space-above">CONTAINING TRAVELS IN ARAUCO, CHILE, PERU, AND COLOMBIA;<br /> -WITH AN ACCOUNT OF<br /> -THE REVOLUTION, ITS RISE, PROGRESS, AND RESULTS.</p> - -<p class="space-above"> </p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p class="space-above"> </p> - -<p class="bold2">BY W. B. STEVENSON,</p> - -<p class="bold">FORMERLY PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE PRESIDENT AND CAPTAIN GENERAL OF QUITO,<br /> -COLONEL, AND GOVERNOR OF ESMERALDAS, CAPTAIN DE FRAGATA, AND LATE<br /> -SECRETARY TO THE VICE ADMIRAL OF CHILE,—HIS EXCELLENCY<br /> -THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD COCHRANE, &c.</p> - -<p class="space-above"> </p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p class="bold">VOL. II.</p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p class="bold space-above">LONDON:<br />HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO.<br /> -CONSTABLE & Co. AND OLIVER & BOYD, EDINBURGH.<br />MDCCCXXV.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CONTENTS OF VOL. II.</h2> - -<table summary="CONTENTS OF VOL. II."> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td><span class="smaller">PAGE</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. I.</span>—Farm of Vinto, Cattle, Grain, &c....First -Wheat in Peru....<i>Tapiales</i>, Fences....Trees, Shrubs, -and Plants....Fruit....Animals....Birds....Fish....Appearance of the Villages....<i>Balsas</i>....Indian -Feast....Indian Burial....Paramonga....Palace of Fortalice</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. II.</span>—Visit to Caxatambo....Roads....Manner of -Travelling....Village of Ocros....Cura of Ditto....Indians....Road to -Chiquian....Town of Chiquian....Crimes....Mining Laws....Method of working the -Ores....Frauds in <i>Plata Pina</i>....<i>Taonas</i> and <i>Ingenios</i>....Caxatambo....<i>Repartimientos</i>....Manufactures....Inhabitants....Amusements....Road from Caxatambo, -<i>Cuesta</i>....Farm House and Family....Town of Huaras....Productions of Huailas....Manufactures of Ditto....Huaras, -excellent Mercantile Situation....Province of -Conchucos....Produce, &c....Mines....Oca....Medicinal Plants....Character of Inhabitants....Procession -of St. Peter....Localities in the Province....Enter Huamalies....Productions....<i>Coca</i>....<i>Charquis</i> -Cinchona....Mines....Eagle Stones....Fruits....<i>Mulitas</i> and <i>Quiriquineihos</i>....Character -of Inhabitants....Death of the Inca represented....Observations</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. III.</span>—General Mode of Travelling from Lima to the -different Provinces....British Manufactures fit for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span> -last Provinces visited....General Character of the Inhabitants....Animals in the Provinces of Huailas, Caxatambo, -Conchucos, and Huamalies....Pagi or Puma....Ucumari....Viscacha....Comadreja....Ardillas....Gato -Montes....Alco....Llama.... Paco....Huanaco....Vicuna....Mulita....Birds....Condor....Vegetable -Productions....Mineral Ditto....Antiquities....Diseases and Remedies....Hydrophobia</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. IV.</span>—Travels to the North of Lima....Village of -Pativilca....Of Huarmey....Of Casma....Cotton Mill....Santa....River Santa....Nepena....Farm -of Motocachi....Vineyard....Port of Santa....<i>Tambo de Chao</i>....Viru....Truxillo....Itinerary -between Lima and Truxillo....Description of Truxillo....Building....Inhabitants....Climate....Commerce....Jurisdiction....Arms....Plain -<i>de Chimu</i>....<i>Huaca de Toledo</i>....Tradition of....Huanchaco Port....Valleys of Chimu, Chicama, and -Viru....Productions....Road to Caxamarca....Contumasa....Magdalena....Gold Mines....View -of Caxamarca....Origin of Name of....Description of....Buildings....Inhabitants....Arts and Manufactures of....Visit to -San Pablo....Market of Caxamarca....Trade of....Hot Baths....Description of</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. V.</span>—Historical Sketch of Caxamarca, Huaina Capac, -Huascar Inca, and Atahualpa....Arrival of Pizarro at -Tumpis....At Caxamarca....Spanish Embassy....Harangue of Soto....Answer of Atahualpa....Visit of -Atahualpa to Pizarro....Discourse of Friar Vicente -Valverde, to Atahualpa....Answer of Atahualpa....Imprisonment of....Offered Ransom of....Cause of the -Jealousy of Pizarro....Arrivals of Treasure....Accusation, -for the Trial of Atahualpa....Sentence, Baptism, -Execution, and Burial of....Interesting Remains in Caxamarca</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. VI.</span>—Province of Caxamarca....Manufactures, Mines....Village de Jesus....Hawking....Farm -of Lagunilla....Inga Tambo....Village of San Marcos....Feast....Wedding....Village of Ichocan....Mine -of Gualgayoc....Return to the Coast....Village of Chocope....Of -San Pedro....Of Las Lagunas....Of Monsefu....Town -of Lambayeque....Inhabitants, Buildings, New Altar....Manufactures, Soap, Cordovans, Cotton Goods, -Sweetmeats....Fruits, Grain, Pulse....Vegetables....Market....<i>Algarroba</i>, Carob Tree....Village -of Eten....Of Morrope....<i>Simarones</i>....Desert of Sechura....Town of Sechura....City -of Piura....Inhabitants, Buildings....Mules....Manufactures....Climate....Effect -on Syphilis....Commerce....Port of Paita....Excellent Situation for an Astronomical Observatory</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. VII.</span>—Leave Lima for Guayaquil....<i>Amortajado</i>....Puna....Arrival -of the Spaniards, and Conquest of....Village of....Inhabitants....Passage up the River -Guayaquil....<i>Punta de Arena</i>....Guayaquil....Foundation pand Description of....Buildings....Inhabitants....Amusements....Market....Fruit....Climate....Insects -and Reptiles....Dock Yard....Project of Sawing Mills....Balsa, Description of....Navigation -of....Canoes....Merchants of Guayaquil</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. VIII.</span>—Productions of the Province of Guayaquil....Cocoa....Cultivation....Harvest....Tobacco....Timber....Salt....Cattle....Minor -Articles of Trade....<i>Turbines</i> found at Santa Elena....Large Bones, &c....Animals, -<i>Perico</i>, <i>Ligero</i>....Monkeys....<i>Iguanas</i>....Toucanes....<i>Trompeteros</i>....Snakes....Curiquinqui, -Snake-eater....<i>Huaco</i>, Antidote for the Bite of Snakes....<i>Lagartos</i>, Alligators, Description of....Methods of -Killing....Fishermen....Mineral Productions</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_227">227</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. IX.</span>—Journey from Guayaquil to Quito....Babaoyo -Road to Chimbo....<i>Cuesta de San Antonio</i>....Arrival -at Huaranda....Triumphal Arch and Harangue....Description of Huaranda and Province -of Chimbo....Chimboraso....Accident at la Ensillada....Road to -San Juan....<i>Obrage</i> of Indians....Arrival at Riobamba....Description of....Remains of -Old Riobamba....Visit to an old Cacique....Province of Riobamba....Road to Ambato....Description -of....Produce....Arrival of Tacunga....Description of....Earthquakes -at....Ruins of Callo....Provincial Produce....Arrival -at Chisinchi, Ensillada, and Quito....Remarks</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_257">257</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. X.</span>—Quito, Foundation and Situation....Plasa Mayor....President's Palace, Bishop's -Palace and Cathedral....Parishes....Convents and Public Buildings....Jesuit's -College....Convent of San Francisco....San Diego....Santa Prisca....Santa Clara....University....College -of San Luis....Of San Fernando....Houses....Government....Nobility....Population....White -Creoles....Occupation and Education....Character of....Mestisos -Persons, Character, Employment....Dress of Creoles....Of Mestisos....Of Indians....Diversions, Bull-fight -and Masquerade....Dancing....Music....Religious -Procession....Market, Meat, Fruit and Vegetables....Spirituous Liquors....Ices, -Confectionary....Cheese....Trade and Commerce</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_279">279</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. XI.</span>—Visit of the Academicians to Quito in 1736....Inscription left by....Climate -of Quito....View of Mountains at....Description of Chimboraso....Of -Cayambe-urcu....Of Antisana....Of Cotopaxi....Of -Pichincha....Of El Altar....Description of the fertility -of the Valleys....Mines....Ruins of Temples, Palaces, -and Fortified Places....Account of the Indians....Of Commerce</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_320">320</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. XII.</span>—Villa of Ibarra, Description....Villa of Otavala, -Description....Lakes San Pablo and Cuicocha....Visit -to the River Mapo....Gold Mines on the Banks of....Indians pay their Tribute in -Gold....Bæza, the Capital of the District....Description of the Inhabitants, &c....Commissioned -by the Government to explore a Road from the Capital to the nearest Point of the Coast....Maldonado's -Road....Leave Quito....Cross the Skirts of Pichincha, arrive at the River Piti....Description of -the Country....Description of Piti....Proceed to Esmeraldas....Description of the River -of Jaguar....Houses, Plantations, Cattle....Method of Distilling Rum....Food of the -Inhabitants....<i>Saino</i> Tatabra, and <i>Aguti</i>, -or Huatus....Monkey and Charapa....Method of -Killing Game with the <i>Sorbetana</i> and Poisoned <i>Pua</i></td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_346">346</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. XIII.</span>—Continuation of Esmeraldas; Fish caught in -the River....<i>Chautisa</i>, method of taking....Preserving -of....Method of catching Fish in the River....Of -Cooking it....Yucas, Camotes, Yams....Palmettos....Tobacco....Cocoa....New -variety of....Occupation of the Esmeraldenos....Origin of....Language....Dress....Manners -and Character of....Religion....Re-ascend the Esmeraldas River, to the Embarcadero de -Maldonado....Mouth of the River....City of Esmeraldas....Road to Atacames....Port -of....Town of....<i>Manzanillo</i>....Rio Verdo....La Tola....Country -Produce, Timber, and Wood....Coutchouc....Fruit -Palms....Animals....Mines....Conclusion</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_379">379</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. XIV.</span>—Visit to Cayapas....Village....Inhabitants....Houses and -Furniture....Visit to the Malabas, Wild Indians....Arrival at the Vijia....Interview with -the Cacique, Family of.... Tribe of the Malabas....Tradition of the Origin of....Dress -of....Manners....Laws....Return to Cayapas....Visit Tumaco....Description -of....Barbacoas....<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span>Description of....Gold -Mines....Manner of Working them....Leave the -Coast, Malbucho Road....River Mira....<i>Puentes de -Maroma</i>, and <i>Taravitas</i>....<i>Piquigua</i>....Arrive at -Ibarra, and return to Rio Verde and Esmeraldas....Ascend -the River Quinindi....Boa Constrictors....Santo -Domingo de los Colorados....Indians....Dress....Houses....Food -Cocaniguas....Quito</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_408">408</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Farm of Vinto, Cattle, Grain, &c....First Wheat in -Peru....<i>Tapiales</i>, Fences....Trees, Shrubs, and -Plants....Fruit....Animal....Birds, Fish....Appearance of the -Villages....<i>Balsas</i>....Indian Feast....Indian -Burial....Paramonga....Palace or Fortalice.</p></blockquote> - -<p>On the side of the river opposite to Huaito I visited the farm of Vinto, -which from the purposes to which it is dedicated may be considered as -something like an English farm. Horned cattle are bred in considerable -numbers; the cows rear the calves, and are seldom milked. Dr. Robertson -speaks of a degeneration of animals in America, "in the Spanish colonies -within the torrid zone, or bordering on it;" but he certainly was -misinformed with respect to Peru; the cattle is not so large as in -Lincolnshire, but, taking the average, it is as large as the English, -French, and Spanish cattle: when fed on lucern the meat is -well-flavoured, fat, and juicy, and the bones are very small. At Vinto -great numbers of pigs are reared, and are said to pay very well. Barley -is sown<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> at a time which allows it to be in ear in the littering season, -when the sows are turned on it, and remain until it is all eaten down: -the young pigs are then separated from the old ones, and driven to a -field of lucern, where they are kept till they are fit for market; this -takes place when they are from ten to sixteen months old, at which age -they sell at from six to nine dollars each, if of a good breed for -fattening. Few sheep are bred on the coast, to which during some months -of the year large flocks are driven from the interior, and fattened for -the Lima market; many of these are ewes in-lamb, particularly those -brought down in November and December; and the common bargain between -the drover and the farmer is, to give the lambs for the pasturage, by -which means the farmer obtains a sufficient number of sheep to supply -him with mutton, calculating on receiving a hundred and fifty lambs for -every hundred ewes. Besides this increase in sheep, which is greater -than in England, the ewes bear twice a year in South America—in general -the lambing season is in June and December.</p> - -<p>The breed of horses and mules at Vinto was of little extent, but some of -the latter were very good; the ordinary ones for carriers would sell for -forty-five or fifty dollars each, while<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> the prime mules would fetch a -hundred or a hundred and fifty.</p> - -<p>A considerable quantity of wheat is harvested at Vinto, as well as on -the neighbouring farms and near the surrounding villages; it is sown and -ploughed in, and irrigated three or sometimes four times during its -growth; after it is cut, it is thrown into a heap, and the grain trodden -out by horses; it is then cleared from the chaff, by throwing it up in -the wind, as in Chile, and it generally yields from fifty to -seventy-fold.</p> - -<p>The first wheat was carried to Lima in the year 1535, by Doña Maria de -Escobar, wife of Doñ Diego de Chares; the quantity consisted of but a -few grains, which she cultivated herself. In the true spirit of the age -and country, she invited all her friends to celebrate the first harvest -of new wheat in the new world, not knowing that it had been produced in -Mexico in 1528, by a negro slave belonging to Cortes, who accidentally -found a few grains mixed among the rice which was supplied to the army. -To commemorate the happy event in Lima, Doña Maria presented to each of -her friends a few grains, and it is said that some ears were laid as an -offering on the altar of the Dominican church. The first wheat at Quito -was sown near to the Franciscan convent, by Father Jose<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> Rixi, who -carried his seed thither from Europe in a small earthen jar, which yet -exists in the convent, and is exhibited to visitors; it is of baked -clay, and will hold about a quart. Among the relics shown to me, in -1809, I admired none so much as this: a circumstance which rather -disconcerted the pious sacristan who shewed them to me. The historian, I -should think, must feel greater pleasure in recording the name of the -individual who has promoted the welfare and contributed to the comforts -of his fellow creatures, than in sounding the trumpet of fame to that of -a hero whose glory reposes on the mangled bodies of thousands of his -comrades, slaughtered to add a letter to the name of the victor, and not -unfrequently to bind the chains of thraldom round the necks of the -vanquished.</p> - -<p>Maize, beans of five or six varieties, lentils, garbansos, camotes, -yucas, and potatoes are cultivated by the farmer for home consumption, -as well as for the Lima market; the slaves also grow the same articles, -and on a Sunday take their produce to the neighbouring villages to sell.</p> - -<p>The fields on these plantations and farms are generally divided by -walls, called <i>tapiales</i>: these are formed of large square masses of -clay or earth, sometimes mixed with stones, each being about four feet -long, two thick, and two broad,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> and are called <i>adobones</i>; the walls -are sometimes four and sometimes six feet high, being composed of two or -three layers of adobones. They are made by laying a frame of wood on the -ground, composed of two sides and one end, the sides being secured at -the other by thongs of raw hide; the earth on one side the box or frame -is then wetted with water, dug over once or twice, and put into the -frame, <i>adobera</i>, where it is trodden hard, or beaten with a heavy -rammer; more earth is thrown in, and again pressed down, until the frame -is quite full, when the top is smoothed over with a wooden trowel and -some water. The frame is removed by untying the thongs, which allows the -sides of the adobera to open a little, and to separate freely from the -adobon, which is smoothed with the trowel or hand with a little water; -the frame is now placed with its open end to the adobon which is -finished, and another is made and placed adjoining to it by the same -process. When a second or third tier is raised, two pieces of plank or -scantling are laid on the lower adobon, to support the frame, which is -filled as before; the scantlings are then drawn out and the frame -removed; the holes are sometimes filled up, and sometimes left open. -When stones are mixed with the clay or earth they are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> usually placed -along the sides of the frame, the centre being filled up with earth, to -which cut straw is occasionally added, particularly when the soil is -rather sandy. These fences are very durable; a ditch is formed on one or -both sides, according to the will of the master, and the earth dug out -serves to make the wall, and at the same time secures it from being -undermined by the water, which would be injurious to the foundation. In -those parts of Peru where it rains, small bundles of brush wood are put -across the top of the tapial, and clay laid on them to prevent the rain -from penetrating: if tiles were substituted they would answer much -better.</p> - -<p>I have been rather minute in describing these walls, being convinced -that with a few improvements they would be found preferable to some -fences used in England; indeed the easy method of building them deserves -to be communicated to those who are in the habit of constructing fence -walls instead of hedges, a common practice in our hilly countries. As a -proof of their duration, many of these clay fences are now standing on -the coast of Peru, and of those cased with stone in the interior, built -more than three centuries ago, by the indians, before the Spaniards -discovered their country.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p><p>The trees that afford any timber in this neighbourhood are the molle -and espino, or huarango; from the latter excellent charcoal is made, and -considerable quantities are carried to Lima. Senna is found in abundance -in the hedges, and willows and poplars become very lofty. The indigo -plant grows spontaneously in the fields; I have sometimes observed -cochineal on the cactus, cultivated for its fruit, the prickly pear, but -of an inferior quality; in the interior it is called <i>pilcay</i>, and from -some cotton cloth which I have found in the huacas, it is evident that -the ancient Peruvians were acquainted with its colouring principle, this -as well as the indigo being among the fillets taken out of the huacas. -They procure the yellow tint at present by steeping the berries of the -molle in water, and afterwards a quantity of maize; wool dyed in this -water takes a bright and permanent yellow. A tree of the mimosa tribe, -called Tara, bears a quantity of pods which contain a large portion of -tanin; ink is generally made from an infusion of these pods, by adding -to it some sulphate of iron. The fragrant floripondio grows in many of -the hedges, assisted by the odorous ñorbo, a small species of passion -flower, which emits in the evening a most delightful fragrance. The -prickly apple, holy thistle, and many other<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> medicinal plants grow wild, -with the virtues and applications of which the indians are well -acquainted. The maguey is very common; it makes a good hedge, no animal -daring to pass it, on account of the large prickles with which the point -of each leaf is armed. It may be said, that this is one of the most -useful plants at present known. Of the flower stalks the indians build -their houses, and cover them with its large leaves; the fibrous part may -be converted into thread and woven for clothing, while its sharp pointed -prickles are a good substitute for needles. Before the flower stem makes -its appearance, if the heart of the plant be cut out, and a hollow place -made in the centre, it will be filled in ten or twelve hours with a -thick syrup, which may be used instead of sugar; when this is mixed with -water and fermented, it forms the favourite Mexican beverage <i>pulque</i>; -of this juice vinegar may be made, or brandy distilled from it: if the -leaves are bruised and pressed, they produce by boiling a balsamic -syrup, used to cleanse and cure ulcers; the leaves are also used instead -of soap: the clothes are wetted, and then beaten with a leaf which has -been crushed; a thick white froth is produced, and after rincing, the -clothes are quite clean. The flower buds are very delicate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> eating when -boiled or pickled. Of the aloes this is the largest species; here are -two varieties, the leaves of the one being of a deep green inclining to -black, while those of the other are of a beautiful pale green; the -latter is the more useful of the two varieties.</p> - -<p>A tree called <i>del jaboncillo</i> grows in the hedges; it has the -appearance of the laurel, and produces a quantity of round fruit, of the -size of small plums; a hard kernel is enclosed in a tough rind, which -when ripe contains a pulpy matter; this, on being mixed with water, -produces a white froth, and is used instead of soap for washing.</p> - -<p>In some gardens the <i>achote</i> is cultivated; this tree is seldom above -ten feet high, the leaves are heart-shaped, and the seeds are enclosed -in a prickly capsule about three inches long; they are covered with an -unctuous matter, of a vermilion colour, and are thrown into hot water, -and afterwards strained, when the liquor is boiled to the consistency of -paste, and forms the annotta dye. The natives often use it as a spice, -or as a colouring matter for their food.</p> - -<p><i>Mani</i> is also cultivated; the plant is very frondiferous, is about two -feet high, and has white flowers; but the mani, or nuts, are attached<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> -to the roots; they are about the size of horse beans, and when roasted -or boiled are delicate eating; they contain a considerable quantity of -oil, of a beautiful green colour, which is obtained by pressure; it is -equally palatable with the best olive oil. The root is remarkably -nutritive, and very agreeable to eat when on a long journey.</p> - -<p>A tree called <i>pilco</i> grows in the hedge rows; the leaves are lancet -formed, and the branches very straight; the fruit is like that of the -common laurel. If a person remain but a short time under the shade of -this tree when the sun shines, swellings and pustules make their -appearance on the face and arms, or any other naked part of the body. -The juice is extremely caustic, and ulcerates the skin wherever it -touches; on which account it is called in the Quichua language -<i>capsicarancha</i>, the itch tree. When it is necessary to cut down any of -these trees, a fire is made at the foot of them, and their offensive -property is destroyed.</p> - -<p>The plant which produces the castor bean, from which the castor oil is -obtained, grows wild; the oil is often extracted by the natives, and on -some sugar plantations it is used for the purpose of burning in lamps. -One variety of this plant produces very large beans, which are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> called -<i>piñones</i>: it grows about six feet high; the leaves are somewhat like -those of the vine; the beans are enclosed in prickly capsules, each -containing two beans, which have a thin black shell, and very white -kernel; two or three of these chewed and swallowed prove a violent -purgative. The natives extract the oil and apply it to the abdomen in -cases of dropsy; they also dilute a small quantity in urine, and pour -one or two drops into the ear, in cases of deafness or a pain in the -ear.</p> - -<p>During the damp season, in foggy months, a species of cactus grows on -the <i>lomas</i> or sand hills which produces a fruit called <i>caimito</i>; this -resembles in shape a large cucumber; it is first green, afterwards -brown, with yellow stripes, and when ripe it is red. The taste is an -agreeable subacid; but after eating the fruit a very disagreeable -feeling is left on the lips, which is removed by rubbing them with a -piece of the rind. The fruit is remarkably fragrant, and on this account -it is frequently kept in the houses.</p> - -<p>In the garden at Huaito there were a few plants of coffee; they were -very healthy and bore fruit abundantly. Cotton of a good quality grows -near the cottages of the indians, who always cultivate a few plants for -their own consumption; among these plants I have <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>observed many bearing -cotton of a nankeen colour, but of this they seldom make any use.</p> - -<p>Quantities of small lizards are to be seen on every heap of rubbish or -stones, particularly when the sun shines, busily employed in catching -flies, on which they appear to subsist; I have frequently watched them -while seizing their prey. As soon as they observe a fly on the sand they -creep out of their holes and make their advance with a slow and almost -imperceptible motion; they place themselves in a right line with the -object, and then make a dart at it open mouthed, and swallow it in a -moment, very rarely missing it. They are often beautifully striped with -green, yellow, and brown, and are generally about eight inches long. On -some parts of the coast the indians eat them; they cut off the tail and -the feet and fry the body, which has then the appearance of a fried -smelt. I ate some at San Pedro, and believed them to be the peje rey -until I was undeceived. The indians consider them as a medicinal food -for persons afflicted with cutaneous diseases.</p> - -<p>The opossum is found in all the valleys of the coast; it is about two -feet long including the tail, which is as long as the body; the nose is -pointed like that of a hog, and has no hair on it from the eyes to the -mouth; the ears are thin,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> without any hair on them, and stand erect; -the feet are also naked and small, and it holds its meat with its fore -paws, like a monkey; the body is covered with hair, black at the roots -and white at the points, which gives it a shady grey colour; the tail is -slender and naked, and by it the animal can hang suspended to the branch -of a tree. The female brings forth four or five young ones at a time, -not larger than mice when first born, and they immediately betake -themselves to the pouch under the belly of their mother. The pouch is -formed by a fold of the skin, hairy on the outside and covered with a -very soft down or fur on the inside; the nipples are so situated, that -the young ones can suck them as they are carried about by their mother; -when about the size of full grown mice they leave the pouch by an -opening in the centre, and bask in the sun, but if any danger threaten -them they immediately take refuge in their natural home. I one day -caught an old opossum by the tail, when four of her young ones ran out; -I chased and captured two of them; they immediately hid themselves by -running up the inside of my coat sleeves; I took them home, reared them, -and they became perfectly domesticated, were very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> tame, and would sleep -on the same mat with a dog. They feed on fruit or esculents, will eat -flesh, and are particularly fond of eggs. The indians esteem them as -food, but I never had an opportunity of eating any. The natives -sometimes call the opossum <i>mochilera</i>, from <i>mochila</i>, a knapsack; the -indians call it <i>mucamuca</i>.</p> - -<p>The añas of Peru is a species of pole cat, and is nearly the size of a -domestic cat; its colour is a deep brown approaching to black, with a -line of round white spots extending from the nose to the tail; the head -is long, the ears broad and covered with hair, the eyes large with small -black pupils, the nose sharp like the opossum; the upper lip is shorter -than the lower one, which projects, and the mouth contains twelve -incisorial, four canine, and sixteen grinding teeth. The hind legs are -longer than the fore, and each foot has five toes, armed with long sharp -nails, with which it burrows into the ground, and forms a place of -security for its young. When walking it carries its head down, and its -tail, which is bushy, is turned on the back like that of a squirrel.</p> - -<p>Under the tail and above the vent is a small vesicle, which contains a -remarkably fetid oily liquid. When attacked or in danger this animal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> -elevates its posteriors and forcibly ejects upon its assailant this -pestiferous fluid, the loathsome effects of which nothing can exceed. -Clothes that are in the least sprinkled with it become totally useless, -for no washing will take off the stench; in the same manner, it will not -leave the body, if any part happen to come in contact with it, until the -cuticle or surface skin comes off. If a dog by chance receive any of it -on his body he immediately runs to the water, rolls himself in the mud, -howls, and appears almost mad, nor will he eat any thing for several -days, or until the stench begins to abate—this defence is the only one -of which the añas ever avails itself.</p> - -<p>Conscious of his offensive powers, the añas is not alarmed at the -approach of either men or dogs; it always passes them fearlessly, indeed -both generally make way, lest by opposition they might subject -themselves to its nauseous and abominable filth, and become disgusting -even to themselves by being wetted with its matter.</p> - -<p>The skin of the añas has a beautiful long soft fur, and is quite free -from any disagreeable smell. The animal feeds on poultry and eggs, and -is very annoying, for no one chooses to risk the killing of it: when -this is effected, it is generally with a trap, but should it be killed -in a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> village or near a house, the smell is quite a nuisance to the -neighbourhood for several days.</p> - -<p>Some few snakes are found in the hedges, but they are quite harmless. -The <i>alacran</i>, scorpion, is venomous, but not more painful than the -sting of a wasp.</p> - -<p>Of the feathered tribe the majestic <i>condor</i> stands most conspicuous, -whether on the ground extending its wings, which often measure fourteen -feet from tip to tip, or soaring among the clouds, in appearance not -larger than a swallow. The flight of this bird is truly majestic; it -rises with an almost imperceptible tremulous motion of the wings, and -falls to the ground in the same manner; it pounces on its prey, if a -lamb or any other small animal, and bears it off in its talons to some -neighbouring mountain; if the prey be too large, the condor will feed on -it till unable to fly, when it becomes itself the easy prey of the -villagers, who run it down and kill it with clubs.</p> - -<p>The <i>gallinaso</i>, or turkey buzzard, as it is sometimes called, from its -resemblance to a turkey, is a very useful bird; it is the public -scavenger, devours all kinds of carrion, and on this account is seldom -or never killed.</p> - -<p>A few small eagles and hawks are troublesome among the poultry, and -destroy great<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> numbers. Wild ducks frequent the mouths of the rivers, -where we find gulls and other aquatic birds, among which we frequently -discover the pelican.</p> - -<p>The singing birds are the <i>cilguero</i>, a kind of linnet; the blackbird, -resembling in size and note the English blackbird; the <i>titupuying</i>, -which is something like the cardinal. A species of wood pigeon is very -common, and in allusion to its note is called coo coo lee; it is easily -tamed, and will coo at any hour of the night, if a candle be lighted, -but never more than three times before it ceases or rests.</p> - -<p>Some of the rivers have plenty of <i>lisa</i>, a species of mullet, <i>peje -rey</i>, and <i>camarones</i>; the sea fish on the coast are <i>corbina</i>, <i>chita</i>, -<i>jureles</i>, a kind of mackerel, <i>peje rey</i>, and <i>lenguado</i>, a species of -turbot. Shell fish is scarce, but small muscles and limpets are -generally found. The natives cook and eat a sea weed which grows on the -rocks, known by the name of <i>yuyo de la mar</i>. On the shore among the -sand a small white stone is found, called <i>piedra del ojo</i>, or <i>limpia -ojos</i>; it is about the size of a lentil, and of an opaque white colour; -the natives pretend that by putting one of them under the eyelid, it -will travel round the eye, and then fall out, bringing with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> it any -extraneous matter that may have been lodged in this delicate organ.</p> - -<p>The villages along the coast have a very neat appearance; the houses are -but one story high, with a capacious corridor in front; some of them are -supported by pillars made of sun-dried bricks, some round, others -square; while others are composed of bundles of canes lashed together -and covered with clay, with arches made of the same materials. The whole -front is white-washed, and a comfortable promenade is produced under the -grotesque piazzas, a range of seats sometimes extending the length of -ten or twelve houses; and here in the cool of a summer evening the -villagers sit, or lay their mats on the ground and sleep. In those -villages where the population consists of creoles and indians few of the -latter build their houses in the busy part of the village; they prefer -living on their own small chacras, or the allotments of land which they -possess.</p> - -<p>A low table, a few pots and pans to cook in, and some calabashes to eat -and drink out of, compose the furniture of an indian's cottage. Mats of -<i>totora</i>, a long rush which grows in swampy ground, are their seats, of -which rushes they sometimes make the walls of their cottages, by tying -them up in small bundles,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> putting these close together, and securing -them with canes placed horizontally on each side, and tied together at -certain distances. They also form <i>balsas</i> of them; for this purpose, -they tie together as many as make the middle of the balsa, about two -yards in circumference, which they taper to a point at each end; they -then shape it like a crescent by winding round it ropes of the totora. -Seated on the centre of this original boat, they take their nets and go -two or three leagues out to sea, and I never heard of any accident -happening to the fishermen. As the person who navigates in this manner -must sit astride, the indians often call their balsas <i>potrillos</i>, -colts; and the appearance of a fleet of them floating on a smooth sea in -a calm evening is very beautiful.</p> - -<p>When dry, the balsa only weighs a few pounds, so that on one mule the -fisherman can carry his boat, his net, and even sufficient materials to -build his hut: in this manner they range up and down the coast in search -of fish, which they often salt and take either to Lima or some other -market. One kind of net is perfectly round when laid open on the ground; -the circumference has several pieces of lead attached to it, and in the -centre a rope is tied: when used they collect about half<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> the net on the -right arm, throw it into the water, and allow it to sink to the bottom; -they then draw the line fastened to the centre, and as the net rises, -the leads close by their own weight, and the fish are thus secured. With -this umbrella net, as I used to call it, they often catch large -quantities of fish in the rivers, lakes, and among the surf on the sea -shore—the indians name the net ataraya.</p> - -<p>When an indian celebrates the feast of some particular saint, he -provides a dinner for all who choose to partake of it; mats are laid on -the ground, and the cloth along the middle of them; large calabashes of -chicha, some holding five or six gallons, are placed on the cloth, with -a number of smaller ones, holding about a pint, ranged on each side; the -men seat themselves, and the women bring in large dishes of beef, cut -into pieces about two inches square, and stewed with lard, a quantity of -capsicum, and the juice of sour oranges. Spoons are placed on the table, -if I may so call it, but the fingers supply the place of forks—knives -are very seldom wanted, and small calabashes serve instead of plates: -when these dishes are removed the chicha goes merrily round. The second -course of dishes is generally filled with fowls stewed with some kind of -vegetables, but not picante,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> seasoned with <i>agi</i>, capsicum pods; after -this course follows a <i>pepian</i>, consisting of turkey stewed with rice -flour, water, onions, garlic, cayenne pepper, and lard; sometimes peje -reyes, smelts, merely laid for five or six hours in the juice of sour -oranges, and green capsicum pods are brought in; and, lastly, the -favourite dish of cuyes, guinea pigs, highly seasoned with cayenne -pepper. Between each course the chicha circulates freely, and the -company often rise pretty merry; after which they mount their horses and -call for the stirrup cup; the mistress of the feast then goes out with a -large pongo, calabash of chicha, and distributes a small one to each of -the guests, who frequently joke with her about love affairs; indeed, I -have often heard very witty repartees on such occasions. After the men -are gone, the women sit down and enjoy their dinner in some other -room—not unfrequently in the kitchen; but they abstain almost entirely -from the chicha or any other intoxicating liquors.</p> - -<p>On the death of an indian, his relatives immediately repair to the -house, and place themselves round the corpse, which is laid on the -ground, and wail over him in a kind of plaintive ditty; they mourn his -departure, asking him<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> "Why he left them so soon?" with other similar -questions, enumerating also all his actions, kindnesses, &c. If the -deceased leave a widow, she will sing over him, and recount the tales he -told when he courted her, say where they first met, mention other things -that would be as well forgotten, and conclude with, "Why have you gone -and left me? But some other loved you as well as myself, and she has -bewitched you to death, she has sucked your blood, and she will now be -happy." When this lamentation ceases, a relative will approach the -house, and begin the wail again, all the company joining, and repeating -theirs; the dirge is continued with little interruption until the corpse -is buried.</p> - -<p>About five miles from Patavilca, and a hundred and twenty from Lima, is -a place called Paramonga, or the Fortalesa. The ruins of a fortified -palace of very great extent are here visible; the walls are of tempered -clay, about six feet thick; the principal building stood on an eminence, -but the walls were continued to the foot of it, like regular -circumvallations; the ascent winded round the hill, like a labyrinth, -having many angles, which probably served as outworks to defend the -place. It is supposed to have belonged to the Chimu or King of -Mansichi,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> and was a frontier palace during the time of the Incas. The -oral tradition of the indians says, that at this place the Chimu did -homage to Pachacutec, the tenth Inca. Near these ruins is a high rock, -which overhangs the sea, called <i>el serro de la horca</i>, gallows' hill, -because from the top of it all criminals were formerly thrown into the -sea. Near the Fortalesa is a very extensive ruin of a town, and a -manufactory of saltpetre is established. The salt is obtained by filling -large cisterns with the sand taken from the graves or huacas; water is -poured on it, and having filtered through the sand, it is drawn off; -this is next evaporated and put into large canoes, in which the salt -crystallizes. The nitre is very pure, and is carried to Lima and sold at -the powder mills. Considerable treasure, both in gold and silver -ornaments, has been found, when taking the sand out of the huacas; -beside which many curiosities in earthenware, porphyry, basalt and other -stones, as well as cotton and woollen garments, have been collected. The -value of treasure dug up by different individuals in the year 1813 -exceeded twenty thousand dollars.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Visit to Caxatambo....Roads....Manner of Travelling....Village of -Ocros....Cura of Ditto....Indian....Road to Chiquian....Town of -Chiquian....Crimes....Mining Laws....Method of working the -Ores....Frauds in <i>Plata Piña</i>....<i>Taonas</i> and -<i>Ingenios</i>....Caxatambo....<i>Repartimientos</i>....Manufactures....Inhabitants....Amusements....Road -from Caxatambo, <i>Cuesta</i>....Farm House and Family....Town of -Huara....Productions of Huailas....Manufactures of Ditto....Huaras, -excellent Mercantile Situation....Province of Conchucos....Produce, -&c....Mines....Oca....Medicinal Plants....Character of -Inhabitants....Procession of St. Peter....Localities in the -Province....Enter -Huamalies....Productions....<i>Coca</i>....<i>Charquis</i>....Cinchona....Mines....Eagle -Stones....Fruits....<i>Mulitas</i> and <i>Quiriquineihos</i>....Character of -Inhabitants....Death of the Inca represented....Observations.</p></blockquote> - -<p>In 1806 I visited Caxatambo, the capital of a district, <i>partido</i>, -bearing the same name. My route was by the <i>quebrada</i>, ravine of -Barranca, which contains two large sugar plantations and several large -farms. I rested the first night at Cochas, a small village, and was most -hospitably treated by Don Manuel Requena, a man who had amassed -considerable property by purchasing cattle in the interior and driving -it down on the coast to fatten on lucern, for the Lima market. The -following morning I began to wind up the ravine, which, after traversing -the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> bridge of cords already described, becomes much narrower, sometimes -so much so, that the passes are dangerous; a gallery is cut in the rock -at one of them a hundred and seventy yards long, but so narrow, that it -would be impracticable for two mules to pass each other; nor is it -possible to make room in the emergency of meeting a traveller. On one -side the mountain is either perpendicular, or it hangs over the heads of -those who pass, threatening to fall and crush them; while on the other -hand, about four hundred feet below the path, the river foams and roars -as it descends towards the coast, having another lofty mountain on the -opposite side. What man could travel on a road like this, and not -shudder to hear the name of an earthquake mentioned; particularly when -he looks on the broken and rugged rocks, and supposes that one of those -dreadful convulsions of the earth may have opened the road on which he -treads, and that such another shock would bury him in the ruins!</p> - -<p>Our mode of travelling would have been regarded in England as a -curiosity; a friend and myself were mounted on two mules, with huge deep -saddles covered with red woolly rugs, large wooden box stirrups, broad -girths,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> and straps attached to the saddles both behind and before; -these straps passed round the breasts and hams of the mules to prevent -the saddles from slipping as we rode up and down the <i>cuestas</i>, some of -which are exceedingly steep. I had two mules laden with my luggage; on -the one was placed my mattress and bedding, put into a large leather -case, called an <i>almaufres</i>; on the other were two <i>petacas</i>, or square -trunks, made of untanned bullocks' hides, and curiously wrought with -thongs of the same material. My comrade had two mules also laden in a -similar manner; for, when travelling in any part of South America that I -visited, it is almost always necessary to take a bed, because no inns or -houses of accommodation are found on the roads, or even in the towns or -cities. Our peon or muleteer generally followed the mules, while we -proceeded on before; but on approaching a village or hamlet, the peon -alighted, and tied the mules together, fastening the halter of one to -the tail of another, to prevent them from straggling.</p> - -<p>About four o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Ocros, a small -village, where the indians were all prepared to go to Cochas the -following day, to repair the bridge. This task is annually imposed on -them jointly with those of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> neighbouring villages, who pass it toll -free, while other passengers pay a real or one-eighth of a dollar: the -money is kept to provide food for the indians who assemble to assist in -the repairs; they employ a week at the work, although it might be -finished in a day; but it is rather a week of feasting than of labour. -About thirty mules, all laden with <i>cabulleria</i>, as it is called, made -from the maguey, were collected in the plasa, or square, and there -appeared to be as much bustle as if an army had been removing its camp.</p> - -<p>My companion was known to the <i>cura</i>, rector, to whose house he took me, -and we were entertained with his best cheer and most cheerful -hospitality. The cura complained bitterly of a want of society in his -place of exile, <i>destierro</i>, as he called it, and jocosely said, that if -the Pope himself were cura of Ocros, he would wish to have a wife to -keep him in good humour: excepting, said he, when a traveller passes -this way, I hear no news, and know of nothing that occurs in the world -which I have left. I often welcome the arrival of a pedlar, to whom I -would not even have spoken at Lima, but here he seems to me like -something dropt from the clouds, and his words and actions delight me, -because they savour of my beloved Lima.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p><p>The village or rather hamlet of Ocros is situated on an eminence; the -climate is cold, and although but eleven leagues from the coast, it is -subject to heavy rains. The inhabitants are for the most part indians, -who have some few small flocks of sheep and goats; they labour on the -neighbouring farms, and on the whole live miserably. Barley, maize, and -milk from their goats are their principal food, and a coarse suit of -clothes will generally wear out the life of its owner; the contrast -between these indians and those on the coast in regard to their manner -of living surprised me not a little:—more ragged and dirty in their -appearance, their small huts containing but one room having the fire in -the middle of it, without any windows, and the absence of every thing -that might contribute to their comfort:—indeed their stock of household -goods made a most miserable shew. I inquired into the cause of this -penury, and was informed by the cura, that their vicinity to the coast -allowed them, if they could purchase a mule, to fetch small quantities -of brown sugar, <i>chancaca</i>, and fruit, and to take them to Chiquian and -other towns in the interior, to sell, and that they usually spent in -eating and drinking the small profits which they derived; they thought, -he said, but little of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> their homes; but left the women to till their -plots of ground, to tend their sheep and goats, and to provide for their -families. Here the Quichua language begins to be spoken; the indians use -no other among themselves, and many of the women cannot speak a word of -Spanish.</p> - -<p>On the following morning, after a very hearty breakfast, we left Ocros, -with an earnest entreaty to call at the house of the cura, should we -ever pass through the village again; but the invitation was almost -useless, as there was scarcely a hut, <i>rancho</i>, in the village that -would have held me and my almaufres. We continued our journey by -descending into a deep ravine, where there was no appearance of -vegetation, except a few <i>tunas</i> and the <i>giganton</i> rising twelve or -fourteen feet high; these, instead of enlightening, gave the scene a -more dreary appearance; for these vestiges of vegetation, as they seemed -to be, stood on the rocks like way-worn travellers, while their naked -trunks craved that moisture from the clouds which they sought for in -vain from below. After travelling three dreary leagues, we began to -ascend the cuesta of Chiquian; at first we perceived the whole extent of -the ravine, <i>quebrada</i>, but the clouds soon began to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> roll beneath our -feet, and intercept the view of the road we had just travelled over. Our -ascent was very laborious to the mules, but I alighted twice and led -mine; in some places steps were cut in the rock, and hollowed out by the -feet of the mules and other cattle that had passed.</p> - -<p>When we reached the top I expected to have an extensive view of the -country, but I was very much mistaken; towards the coast all seemed to -be enveloped in a thick mist, and on every other side the mountains rose -one above another, or their proximity blocked up the whole view at once. -At a distance we could at times see the summit of some mountains -belonging to the principal chain of the Cordillera, covered with snow, -and we appeared as if completely isolated—the bed of clouds behind us -looked like the sea, limited only by the horizon, and before us the -mountains reared their towering heads, as if to oppose our progress.</p> - -<p>The top of the mountain was covered with some short grass and moss, with -a few horned cattle feeding on it; but after travelling about two -leagues we began to descend, and our eyes were once more cheered with -the view of some straggling ranchos and patches of cultivated land. At -two o'clock we arrived at Chiquian,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> a comfortable looking town, or -village, as it would have been called in England. We found here many -white families, and some agreeable people; but the whole village was in -an uproar, being divided into parties respecting a law suit with the -cura; we however went to his house, where we were received with a most -hearty welcome.</p> - -<p>The population of Chiquian is composed of white creoles, indians, and -mestizos; their principal occupation is farming and grazing; ponchos of -wool and cotton are manufactured by the women, some of which are very -fine. Near to Chiquian is a silver mine, formerly worked with tolerable -advantage, but at present abandoned. The ore contains iron, arsenic, and -sulphur, and is always roasted before it is mixed with the mercury; it -was calculated, that if a <i>caxon</i>, fifty quintals, of ore produced eight -marks of silver, that the proprietor lost nothing; but this calculation -is very erroneous, because different ores require different portions of -labour, and the loss of mercury is also much greater in some ores than -in others; the <i>paco</i>, red oxide of silver, pays much better if it yield -six marks each <i>caxon</i>, than the <i>bronce</i>, micaceous pyriferous ores, if -they yield ten. Some few small veins of ore<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> had produced forty marks; -but this may be looked upon generally as a mere temptation to the miner -to carry on the work, often to his own ruin.</p> - -<p>According to the mining laws, the discoverer has one hundred and sixty -square yards of surface, and must not extend his works beyond the -perpendicular limits of his share; he must first present a sample of ore -to the <i>Tribunal de Mineria</i>, and take out a document called <i>registro</i>, -before he can begin to work; the limits are marked out by the -Subdelegado, political governor of the district, and the proprietor -takes possession by rolling himself on the ground, digging holes, -throwing stones, and shouting three times, possession! Other persons who -solicit as hare petition the Tribunal de Mineria, and receive a registro -of eighty yards only, half the quantity to which the discoverer is -entitled.</p> - -<p>Some proprietors pay the labourers, who are indians and mestizos, daily, -but others allow them a bonus of twenty-four hours in each week, during -which time the ore which they extract belongs to themselves; and -purchasers are always ready on the Saturday night to buy it of them. In -this case a great deal of roguery is generally practised. If the -labourers find a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> rich vein they endeavour to hide it till the Friday -night and then extract it for themselves; and it is no uncommon thing -for this ore to yield twenty or thirty marks to the caxon, when that -taken out during the week will not average above eight or ten. The ore -is carried to the mouth of the mine in bags made of hide, called -<i>capachos</i>, on the shoulders of men called <i>capacheros</i>; it is there -received by the mayor domo, and laid on the ground in a heap; hence it -is conveyed on the backs of mules or llamas to the <i>taona</i> or <i>ingenio</i>. -The first is a mill similar to a bark mill, a stone, like a mill stone, -is placed vertically on a wooden axletree, on which it revolves; to the -end of this a mule or bullock, or sometimes two, are fastened, and drag -the stone round. The stone moves in a groove, into which the ore is -thrown; a small stream of water runs along the groove, and washes away -many of the impurities, particularly the earth. When the ore is ground -sufficiently small it forms a mass with the water, and is taken out of -the taona and mixed with a quantity of quicksilver; it is thus allowed -to remain a few days, when it is turned over with a spade, and trod on, -in order to incorporate the mercury with the mass. This operation is -repeated two, three, or more times, till the amalgam is formed;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> more -mercury is added when necessary, which is known by taking a small -portion of the mass and washing away the extraneous matter; if the -amalgam, <i>pella</i>, be hard and granulous, more is added; if not, the -whole mass is thrown into a cistern, and a small stream of water allowed -to run into it. A man keeps this in motion with a pole till the water -has washed away all the earth and other impurities when the amalgam has -collected into one mass; it is then put into a strainer of coarse linen -or hair, and the superabundant mercury is pressed out; the silver, -containing some mercury, is placed in a heated furnace, by which means -the remaining quicksilver is evaporated, and the porous ball is called -<i>plata de piña</i>. Before this can be sold it is carried to the <i>callana</i>, -royal office, where it is melted, the royal fifth paid, and the bar -marked with the initials of the treasurer, the date of the year, and the -weight. The exportation of plata piña was strictly forbidden by the -Spanish colonial laws, and some persons who have run the risk of -purchasing it have been most miserably deceived; for, on cutting the -lumps, they have found adulterated silver in the centre, lead, and even -stones, which could not be discovered except by cutting the lumps into -pieces. Another<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> method of cheating was, by allowing part of the mercury -to remain in the mass, which increases its weight, and can only be -detected by subjecting it to the heat of a furnace. Base metals were -sometimes included in the bars which had not the mark of the treasury on -them; but by putting these into a proper box containing water, and -comparing the quantity of water displaced with the weight of the bar, -the trick might easily be discovered.</p> - -<p>The ingenio differs from the taona only in the operation being performed -with the aid of a water-wheel instead of mules or bullocks. Some of the -taonas are so rudely constructed, that they have two or three stones -lashed to the horizontal pole or axletree, and these are dragged round -by mules or bullocks, and grind the ore on a stone floor laid below -them. Some ores require roasting in a furnace before they are crushed; -but others are carried from the mine to the mill. The silver is -extracted from a few kinds of ore by smelting, which has induced several -foreigners to try various experiments, as the saving of labour and other -expensive operations would be of serious advantage; but universal -failures have been the result; for the ore always came out of the -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>furnaces converted into a hard black ponderous cinder, and was -sometimes vitrified.</p> - -<p>The town of Chiquian has a very neat appearance: a large square forms -the centre of it, on one side of which there is a well built stone -church, and the house of the cura; on another stands the cabildo, and -two or three respectable looking houses with stone doorways, large -folding doors, white walls, and the roofs tiled—but they are only one -story high. The other two sides are filled with houses and shops, and in -the centre of the square is a large wooden cross on a stone pedestal. -Streets lead from the corners of the square, in which there are some -neat small houses with pretty gardens. Excellent cheese is made on some -of the farms in the neighbourhood—not surpassed in richness of flavour -by the best parmesan: the butter here is also good, but it is churned -from boiled milk, and has a peculiar taste, which, however, is not -disagreeable.</p> - -<p>During my stay, I visited Cajatambo, the capital of the district, and -the residence of the subdelegado: the town is larger than Chiquian; but -not so pleasantly situated. The corregidores, as the governors were -formerly called, had the privilege of <i>repartimientos</i>, or -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>distributions, which was certainly the most oppressive law that was -ever enacted. The corregidor, according to this establishment, -monopolized the whole trade of the province or district; he had a store -of goods and distributed them among the inhabitants, particularly the -indians, telling them the price, and when the payment would become due; -at which time the debt was exacted with the greatest rigour. It was in -vain for any person to resist either to receive the goods, or to pay the -value of them. During the repartimientos, that of Cajatambo amounted to -a hundred and thirty thousand dollars annually; and the <i>alcavala</i>, or -duty on sales of property, to twelve hundred dollars; but this tax was -never paid by the indians, because they were exempted by law.</p> - -<p>The order for the establishment of repartimientos of goods was obtained -in the same manner as Ovando obtained his from Isabella for that of the -indians at Hispaniola. The laziness and slothful habits of these -unfortunate beings were urged to procure an order or edict, allowing the -corregidores to distribute such articles among them as were necessary -for their comfort, and oblige them to pay at a reasonable time, leaving -to the distributor a necessary profit; but the abuse of this institution -became so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> great as to be almost beyond description. Many corregidores, -who were not possessed of property to purchase what they wanted of the -merchants, would receive on credit their most miserable stock of -commodities, and then distribute them to the indians, laying on an -enormous profit. Gauzes, stained velvets, muslins, unfashionable -calicoes, and all the dregs of a draper's store were sent to the houses -of the indians, probably in a climate severely cold, where these -suffering wretches had not a blanket to cover themselves, nor perhaps a -shirt on their backs. Spirituous liquors were distributed in the same -manner; a jar worth forty dollars would be sent to the house of an -indian who had a few mules, horses, or other cattle, which, when the -time of payment arrived, were often sold to meet the demand of the -governor. I was assured, that a corregidor of Huamalies took on credit -several large cases of common spectacles, and issued an order in his -district, that no indian should present himself before him, in his -judicial capacity, without having a pair on his nose; by which means he -obliged them to purchase such useless articles, and to advance the sale, -whenever a complaint was made, he would summon as many witnesses as he -possibly could.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p><p>A considerable quantity of wool, some of which is of a short staple, -but very fine, is carried to Lima, where it is principally made up into -mattresses: this district sends also large flocks of sheep and some oxen -to the Lima market. Copperas is found in several parts of it, and great -quantities of gypsum, yeso, which is carried to different places on the -coast, and used in whitewashing the houses.</p> - -<p>The dress of the inhabitants is similar to the dress of those who reside -on the coast; the poncho is seldom or never dispensed with among the -men, indeed the cold makes it quite necessary. In Caxatambo and -Chiquian, evening parties are very common; no invitation is necessary -except the sound of the guitar, and I have spent many very agreeable -hours in listening to the <i>cachuas</i>, and <i>yarabis</i>—it is delightful to -hear both their merry tunes, and their doleful songs. To the former they -generally dance, the figure ending with each verse; this dance is -somewhat similar to the Spanish fandango, or boleras; two persons dance -it; and with few variations it consists of tripping backwards and -forwards, then forming a semi-circle, the man dancing towards the right, -whilst his partner dances in the opposite direction; this is repeated -two or three times, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> dance generally concludes with a <i>sapateo</i>, -beating time to the music with their feet. The dance is something like a -minuet, but the movements are quicker. If a couple dance a minuet, they -generally receive the noisy applause of the lookers on, and not -unfrequently a handful of money is thrown at the feet of the lady by -some <i>enamorado</i>, when the boys and girls immediately run to pick it up; -this creates a bustle, and it is not uncommon for the young lady to be -almost unable to extricate herself from the rabble, even with the -assistance of her partner. The following was the favourite cachua in -Cajatambo, introduced, I believe, by an Andalusian:—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>Yo tengo una cachucha, en que camino de noche</div> -<div>Y andando mi cachuchita, parece que ando en coche</div> -<div class="i4">Ah cachuchita mia, &c.</div> -<div>Yo tengo una cachucha, que compré a mi padre,</div> -<div>Y él que quiere cachucha, que lo compre a su madre,</div> -<div class="i4">Ah cachuchita mia, &c.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>The <i>yarabis</i>, or <i>tristes</i>, as they are sometimes called, are peculiar -to the cierra, and except by a mountaineer, <i>serrano</i>, I never heard -them sung on the coast; they are plaintive ditties, and some of the -tunes are peculiarly sweet. The following is a yarabi which I have often -heard:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>Ingrato, cruel, e inhumano</div> -<div>Tus engaños causaron mi desvia,</div> -<div>Tu contento te rias, y yo lloro,</div> -<div class="i7">Ah alma mia.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>Busca adonde quisieres placeres</div> -<div>Y cobra, sin jamas pagar el amor</div> -<div>El tiempo vendrá, para que llores</div> -<div class="i7">Con duro dolor.</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<div>La muerte dará fin a mi pesar</div> -<div>Tu vivirás con goso, y con risas,</div> -<div>Pero no, te ha or atormentar</div> -<div class="i7">Mi imagen, mis cenisas.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>On leaving Caxatambo we had to pass over the mountains that border the -district to the northward, and owing to the rain that had fallen, the -ascent was very slippery. I frequently alighted, but my companions never -did; they assured me that the mules were sure-footed, and that I need -apprehend no accident. The morning was very cold, and on the tops of the -mountains we perceived a considerable quantity of snow. During our -ascent we observed the rapid decrease of vegetation; the lofty and -luxuriant molles which we saw at the foot became more and more stunted, -till they totally disappeared, and in their place some small plants of -the cactus tribe were clinging to the rocks: on the summit the small -patches of ground were covered with long dry grass, which the natives -called <i>pajon</i>; the rugged rocks were white with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> moss, and all appeared -dreary and lifeless; not a bird nor any living animal was either seen or -heard, and the clouds below hid the surrounding scenery from our view. -After travelling about six leagues, including the ascent, we began to -descend, when the muleteer observed that we were in the province of -Huailas. The clouds that rested on our heads threatened rain, so we -resolved to pass the night at a farm house about a league from the -border. The rain soon began to fall in torrents, and although our mules -walked and slipped down the cuesta as fast as we dare venture to allow -them, we were completely soaked through with the rain. On our arrival at -the farm, about four o'clock in the afternoon, we were welcomed by the -owner, who begged of us to ride under the corridor and alight; two young -men, his sons, assisted us in dismounting, and three young women, his -daughters, helped us to take off our wet ponchos and hats, which they -hung upon pegs in the corridor. We entered the house and seated -ourselves on the <i>estrado</i>, which was covered with very neat home-made -carpets, and a row of low stools were placed near the wall; a large -brass pan, <i>brasero</i>, full of burning wood embers was immediately placed -before us by one of the daughters, who received it at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> door from a -female indian servant. The girls helped us to take off our boots and -stockings, and offered us some of their own shoes as slippers; matte was -immediately made, and I drank five or six cups, or rather sucked it, not -with less pleasure when I observed that my pretty caterer (for very -pretty she was) took the first suck at the tube before she handed it to -me. My companion preferred a large glass of hot brandy and water, and as -he was prepared with a bullock's horn, holding about two quarts of the -former liquor, his appetite was soon satisfied.</p> - -<p>Our host entered shortly afterwards, and informed us that he had sent -for half a dozen lads and lasses to come and dance and be merry with us. -But, said I, it rains, will they come? Yes, said he, to be sure they -will, and they would come if they lived ten leagues off, whereas they -only live at the distance of two:—not across such a road as that which -we have just passed, I hope? Why, said he, they live in the <i>quebrada</i>, -ravine, and all our roads are pretty much alike in such weather as this; -but the sound of a guitar, and the pleasure they take in dancing with -strangers, will bring them away; and surely they will be no worse for -being a little wet and drabbled: the boys will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> bring partners too with -them, because they cannot well dance with their sisters—bread and bread -has no relish, but bread and cheese make a good meal.</p> - -<p>All was now in a bustle of preparation: a lamb and several fowls were -killed for supper; a large calabash of punch was made, containing about -seven or eight gallons; but I being tired with my ride, threw myself -down on the carpets to sleep, when Panchita, the pretty girl who made -the matte, came and placed a pillow under my head and threw a white rug -over me, and then removed the embers in the brasero, which she placed -near enough to keep me warm. My companion, who was a clergyman, said, he -must attend to his <i>officio divino</i> before the company arrived, so he -took out his breviarium, and began to work at his trade, whilst I slept.</p> - -<p>After enjoying my nap for about an hour, I awoke, and found an agreeable -repast just ready—a <i>salona</i>, mutton slightly salted and smoked, and -equal in flavour to venison, had been roasted, an agreeable sauce of the -green pods of capsicum, <i>aji verde</i>, in vinegar had been prepared, and -they were served up with some excellent roasted potatoes; after this, a -chip box, holding about two pounds of preserved apricots, and another of -quince marmalade, for which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>delicacies the province of Huailas is quite -famous, were put on the table. This refreshment was placed before my -companion and myself, on a low table, as we sat on the edge of the -estrado. While we ate and drank, our host informed us that he was a -native of Cadiz, but that he had lived in America upwards of twenty -years. On his arrival at Callao, in the capacity of a sailor, he left -his ship, and travelled into the interior in search of a wife with a -fortune, for, said he, without such an appendage I could have found many -maids willing to become wives at home. I chanced, continued he, on my -way to Huaras, to call at this house to beg a lodging for the night; the -old farmer had a daughter, an only one; I was soon convinced that his -coffers were not empty, so I prolonged my visit, made love to his -daughter, and married her. She has been dead twelve years, and I find -myself happy with my five boys and girls, and they seem to be happy with -me; but that will perhaps not last long, they will themselves soon want -to marry, and I cannot object to it; their father and mother set them -the example, and if I cannot then live with them I can live without -them. You, father, addressing himself to the clergyman, would advise me -perhaps to retire to a convent, and live a penitential life; but if I -have given<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> my flesh to the devil, he shall have my bones too. You tell -us, continued he, that only our good works will accompany us to the -other world; but I shall also take with me good eating and drinking, and -a merry heart; for although you preach to us abstinence and other -restrictions, yet you enjoy the good things of this world, and example, -you know, is more persuasive than precept. But I am happy to see you, -and you are welcome to my rancho, for it reminds me of my own arrival at -it. In a short time our merry companions appeared, laughing most -heartily as they jumped from the backs of their mules, to see each other -bespattered with mud and dripping with rain.</p> - -<p>Three healthy looking lasses, with rosy cheeks, and a stately youth, had -braved the wind and rain to join our party, which, with this -acquisition, was a very merry one. The young women had on hats and -ponchos; but their shoes and stockings were kept dry in the pockets of -the young man, who was their brother. In a very short time the guitar -was tuned, and we began to dance—our kind host, Garcia, being the -musician. I took Panchita as my partner, which caused a good deal of -mirth, because our visitor, Eugenio, was passionately fond of her: he -watched her steps with the anxious rapture<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> of a lover, and no doubt -envied me during the dance; at length, unable to suffer any longer the -privation of dancing with her, he rose, made me a low bow, and took my -place, to the no small satisfaction of the company, who lavished on him -many an Andalusian joke. After the first dance one of the sisters rose -and relieved Panchita, who came and sat down on my knee as I sat on one -of the low stools; she very soon went to a table and brought me a glass -of punch, which we drank; this appeared too much for poor Eugenio, but -instead of being offended, as might have happened among civilized -people, he retired to a seat, after finishing his dance, and placed his -partner on his knee; she soon rose and brought him a glass of punch, -which they drank together; and all parties appeared completely happy.</p> - -<p>We made a most hearty supper of roasted and stewed lamb and fowls, -sweetmeats and punch; after which several songs were sung, both cachuas -and yarabis, and our host entertained us with some Andalusian -<i>chuladas</i>. Day dawned, and found us merry, scarcely able to believe -that the night was spent. The morning was very fine, and we expressed a -wish to proceed on our way to Huaras: but my companion told me, that in -all probability our mules were lost; lost,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> exclaimed I! Yes, said he, -but they will be found again to-morrow morning, if Garcia will then -consent to our leaving his house. This was really the case, for the -mules were not found—for the best of all possible reasons—they were -not sought for; the young men were sent in search of them, and soon -returned with the news, that they could not be found. The girls began to -console us with many promises of their being discovered during the day, -and advised us to take our breakfasts and sleep an hour or two, to which -we assented without much reluctance. We spent the day and the following -night most agreeably—not without plenty of singing and dancing.</p> - -<p>I learnt from our host, Garcia, that his property consisted of about -eighty head of horned cattle, and twelve hundred sheep, besides a small -farm, which he shewed us, of which about sixty acres were under the -plough, and produced good crops of wheat, maize, barley, and potatoes. -Purchasers for the cattle came annually from the coast. The surplus of -wool, some of which is extremely fine, was generally bought by the -owners of manufactories, <i>obrages</i>, in the province, at about one dollar -the arroba, twenty five pounds; the grain, potatoes, &c. were carried to -Huaras.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p><p>On the following morning our mules were found, and we proceeded through -a country more beautiful at every step we took, and arrived in the -evening at Huaras, the capital of the district. This town is pleasantly -situated, though rather bleak; the houses have a neat and comfortable -appearance, and some of the shops are stored with a considerable -quantity of European manufactured goods, such as broad cloth, wide -coloured flannels, linens, cottons, silks, hosiery, cutlery, and also -home manufactured woollen and cotton cloths. In the square, <i>plasa</i>, a -small market is held every morning of articles brought from the -neighbouring country. The town contains a parish church, which is a neat -stone built edifice; a convent of Franciscan grey friars, and a -hospital, under the care of the Bethlemites. The Subdelegado resides -here; the repartimiento of the corregidor amounted formerly to a hundred -and seventy thousand dollars annually, and the alcavala to two thousand -three hundred.</p> - -<p>The population of Huaras consists of about seven thousand inhabitants, -the greater part of whom are composed of mestisos; the people are rather -fond of dress, and evening parties are very common. There is not an inn -or public house in the town; but a traveller can be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> accommodated with -lodgings, &c. in almost any house.</p> - -<p>This district contains many towns and villages; the principal ones are -Requay, Carhuas, Yungay, Caras, and Cotopará. The temperature of the -centre and lower part of the district is warm, and extremely agreeable. -Considerable quantities of sugar are manufactured here; it is of a very -superior quality, but the cane, which is of the creole kind, is four -years before it is ripe, and the first crop only is destined for the -making of sugar; the second serves for the following plantation, and of -the excess sweetmeats are made with peaches, pears, quinces, and -apricots, many mule loads of which are annually taken to Lima. The -fruits of temperate climates prosper extremely well in the valleys; but -on account of the frosty night winds at certain seasons of the year -tropical fruits do not thrive. Owing to part of the province being -subject to a cold atmosphere, particularly on the east side, which is -bounded by the Cordillera, and the valleys enjoying a very benign one, -crops of wheat and barley, as well as maize, quinua, garbansos, lentils -and other pulse, are harvested during every month of the year; it is -common on the same day, when travelling, to see wheat put into the -ground at one place, and under the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> sickle at another. In this province -a great number of large and small cattle are bred, particularly goats, -the skins of which are tanned for cordovans, and the tallow is used in -the soap manufactories. The wool of the sheep is made into flannels, -serges, and coarse cloths, <i>bayetones</i>, at the different manufactories, -<i>obrages</i>, where coarse cotton cloths, <i>tocuyos</i>, are also woven; but -the distaff and spindle are generally employed for spinning. The white -yard-wide flannel sells at about half a dollar a yard; the blue at three -quarters of a dollar, and the tocuyos at different prices, from a -quarter to three quarters of a dollar. Very neat woollen table covers -are manufactured in this province, of different sizes, and various -prices; when wove they are white, and they are afterwards ingeniously -dyed by first tying small patches with two, three, or more threads; the -cloth is then dipped in a cochineal dye; more knots are tied in -different parts, and an indigo dye is used; when dry, the knots are all -untied, and as the colours could not penetrate where the strings were -tied, circles of white, blue, and red, or of other colours, according to -the fancy of the dyer, are formed in the different parts of the cloth, -and if these are symmetrically placed the shades which they produce are -pretty, and the whole effect is very pleasing.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p><p>Formerly several gold and silver mines were wrought in Huailas; there -are upwards of thirty mills for grinding the ore in different parts of -the province, but at present little attention is paid to mining; -however, small quantities of gold and silver are extracted. At Yurumarca -there is a mountain which contains large veins and strata of the -loadstone; near to which is a copper mine, now abandoned, because the -ore did not produce gold, as was expected, when it was first wrought. -Large quantities of alum are prepared from a mineral near Yurumarca, by -the process of solution and evaporation; but it is generally subjected -to a second operation of refining at Lima.</p> - -<p>On the whole, the province of Huailas is most bountifully supplied with -all the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life; the situation is -commanding, and Huaras is calculated to become a large mercantile town, -the general mart for the provinces of Huailas, Huamalies alto, Huamalies -bajo, and Conchucos; but for the furtherance of such a project, the port -of Santa ought to be opened; it is a secure harbour, and is the nearest -of any to Huaras.</p> - -<p>After visiting the principal towns in Huailas, I went to the province of -Conchucos, which adjoins it to the northward. This province is more -irregular than the former; some of the valleys<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> are very low, and -consequently very hot; in these the tropical and equatorial fruits come -to perfection, and at Huari del Rey, the capital, I have seen very fine -pine-apples, grown in the province. The valleys are generally small, -being merely bottoms of the ravines, <i>quebradas</i>, and the soil is -produced by the heavy rains which fall on the adjoining mountains: these -carry down the decayed animal and vegetable matter, as well as the -decombres of the stone of which they are composed, and hence the soil is -remarkably productive. Some of the villages are situated in very cold -climates, being from five to eight thousand feet above the level of the -sea; they are generally small miserable places, inhabited chiefly by -indians, who cultivate patches of barley and maize, which seen from the -valleys appear to hang in the clouds. I have often beheld a man -ploughing with a yoke of oxen lent to him by the farmers, where I should -have imagined that a goat could scarcely have tripped along in safety. A -few small sheep and goats are the only animals which they possess, -excepting dogs, of which useless animals, each hut, <i>rancho</i>, contains -at least half a dozen. Many of these indians are employed by the more -wealthy inhabitants in manufacturing tocuyos, bayetones, flannels, and -coarse cotton stockings<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>. The females generally spin and knit at home, -and the men go to the obrages to weave, dye, full, &c. Some very fine -ponchos are made in Conchucos, and sold at the amazing price of a -hundred or a hundred and fifty dollars each; others, made of brown wool, -are called <i>bordillos</i>, and fetch from five to ten dollars each; of the -coarse wool and all the refuse <i>jerga</i> is made, which is formed into -wrappers for sugar, and common dresses for the slaves and the poorer -sort of indians. This province manufactures more of this kind of cloth -than any of the neighbouring districts, and some of the inhabitants are -wealthy, but the poor indians are truly miserable.</p> - -<p>Some silver mines are wrought in Conchucos, but the quantity of silver -yielded by the ore being small, the hardness of the ore which renders -the breaking of it expensive, and the loss of mercury during the process -of amalgamation, contribute to render mining a losing speculation, and -the mines are consequently almost abandoned. Several attempts have been -made to smelt the ores, but without success; could this be accomplished -there is no doubt but that mining would become profitable in Conchucos, -particularly as there is coal in several parts of this and the -neighbouring provinces.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p><p>Along the margin of the river Miraflores, in Conchucos, there are -<i>labadores</i>, washing places, where gold of the finest quality is found -in the sand, and after the rains subside many persons are employed in -gathering it; but so little are they acquainted with the extensive and -easy method adopted on the coast of Choco, that the profit derived from -their labour is very small; notwithstanding, if proper means were -employed, it is very probable that an abundance might be extracted.</p> - -<p>In the parish of Llamellin is a mine of sulphur, great quantities of -which are extracted, and carried to Lima, and sold at the powder mills. -In the same parish is a spring which falls down the sides of a rock, -forming in its course innumerable hard white stalactites, that look like -candles hung in the water; the natives call them Catachi, and apply -them, reduced to powder, in cases of violent hæmorrhage, bloody flux, -&c.; they also mix the powder with lard or the fat of the puma, or -condor, apply it to fractured bones, and consider the application as -useful in promoting the union of the parts.</p> - -<p>The <i>oca</i> is cultivated in some of the colder parts of this and the -neighbouring provinces; this plant is of a moderate size—in appearance -somewhat like the acetous trefoil; the roots are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> yellow, each about -five or six inches long and two in circumference; they have many eyes, -like the potato, and are seldom straight like the the carrot or radish, -but curved in different directions: one plant produces several roots, -and they are propagated in the same manner as potatoes. The oca when -boiled is much sweeter than the camote or batata of Malaga; indeed, it -appears to contain more saccharine matter than any root I ever tasted; -if eaten raw it is very much like the chesnut, and it may be kept for -many months in a dry place. The transplanting of the oca to England, -where, I am persuaded, it would prosper, would add another agreeable and -useful esculent to our tables.</p> - -<p>Among the plants used medicinally by the natives is the <i>contrayerba</i>, -which grows in the mountains in cold shady places: the stem is about two -feet high, of a purple colour; it is divided by knots like a cane, where -the leaves grow opposite to each other; these are three or four inches -long, narrow, denticulated, and of a very dark green colour. The flower -stalks spring from the same knots, and the flower bears a great -resemblance to that of agrimony. It is used, the leaves, flowers, and -stem, as a febrifuge, and particularly in the small-pox and measles, to -facilitate the eruption; it is also<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> used as a tonic, or stomachic, in -cases of habitual indigestions, and also in dysenteries. It is pretended -that it will counteract the effects of poison, on which account it has -obtained the name which it bears. This plant is quite different to that -called contrayerba, which grows in Chile, and which I have already -described. The natives administer this herb in a simple decoction.</p> - -<p>The <i>calaguala</i> is another herb which grows in moist swampy places, -where the climate is mild. The plant is composed of leaves about ten or -twelve inches long, and one broad; it bears no flowers. A decoction of -the leaves is considered as an excellent dissolvent of the coagulated -blood in severe contusions; it is believed to be efficacious in -affections of the viscera, when ulceration has taken place, by -evacuating the purulent matter; it is also given in the falling -sickness. There are two varieties of this plant: the leaves of the one -are green; this is considered inefficacious, and is called the female; -the other bears leaves of a brown colour, is called the male plant, and -is the one used.</p> - -<p>Another medicinal herb, which is found in this and the neighbouring -provinces, is the <i>quinchimali</i>; it grows in temperate parts, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> -resembles the herb of the same name which grows in Chile. A decoction of -it is drunk in cases of severe contusion, if it be suspected that -coagulated blood, or lymph, be lodged in the intestines, and in -gonorrheas it is used to promote the discharge, and prevent strictures.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Conchucos are said to be less civilized than those of -the neighbouring districts; there is some reason for this assertion; -they are indeed more uncouth and less kind in their manners. There -appears to be a certain degree of licentious independence in their -behaviour, and more robberies and murders are committed here than in any -other part of South America: however, a stranger is generally treated -with respect. When at Corongos, which is certainly the most disagreeable -town I ever entered, I went to purchase some snuff—the shopman was -asleep, and I awoke him, at which he became so enraged, that he jumped -from his chair and struck at me; I ran into the street, and the man -followed me, swearing most lustily, and threatening to strike me; but a -person who was passing stepped in between us, pushed back the shopman, -and clapping his breast with his hand, he said, with me, with me, that -gentleman is a stranger, <i>con migo, con migo, el señor es forastero</i>. -Finding myself thus <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>unexpectedly relieved, I left my champion to settle -matters as well as he could, and hastened to the house of the parish -priest, <i>cura</i>, where I, as usual, had taken up my temporary residence. -In a few minutes my friend, though entirely unknown to me, made his -appearance, and inquired what quantity of snuff I wanted; on being -informed, he immediately went to fetch it, and would not admit of any -return for his kindness and trouble, except my thanks.</p> - -<p>During my stay at Corongos, the cura related to me several anecdotes -concerning his parishioners, one of which was the following. The titular -saint of the town is Saint Peter, and on the day of his festival an -image of a natural size is carried in procession through the principal -streets; when, on his return to the church, he arrives at the corner of -the plasa, the inhabitants of the upper and lower part of the town place -themselves in two rows, having large heaps of stones at their feet, and -not unfrequently the boys and women stand behind them with a supply in -baskets. The carriers of the image rest here for a few minutes, and then -run towards the church in a sort of gallopping procession; but the -moment that the saint enters the plasa, he is assailed by volleys of -stones from each side, and pursued<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> to the church door. If the saint -enter the church with his head on his shoulders, it augurs a bad year, -failure of the harvest, death of cattle, and other calamities; but if -the contrary happen, which is generally the case, the augury is quite -changed; and if the fishes be knocked out of his hand likewise, every -good thing is expected in abundance during the year. After the -decapitation, a scuffle ensues for the possession of the head, between -the inhabitants of the two <i>barrios</i>, or wards of the town, in which -many bones are broken, and generally two or three lives are lost. The -victors carry off the head in triumph, and, like that of a malefactor, -place it on the top of a high pole, and pretend that it averts all -damage that might be done to them by lightning, while the other half of -the town, they say, receives no benefit. The cura told me that his -predecessor had endeavoured to do away with this irreligious practice, -and wrote to a friend at Lima, to charge the sculptor not to finish the -new head for Saint Peter, hoping that if one year passed without such -impiety, the practice would be relinquished; but, to his great surprise, -on the 30th of June, the indians informed him, that the procession would -take place in the evening, for which purpose they had dressed an image<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> -of the Virgin Mary in the garments of Saint Peter, and that she looked -very much like the saint, but rather younger, as she had no beard. The -procession took place; but, to the disappointment of the inhabitants, -the female apostle entered the church with her head on her shoulders, -and from that time she was called Our Lady of the Miracle.</p> - -<p>In the year 1817, two Englishmen, sent from Pasco by Mr. Trevethick, who -afterwards followed with the intention of working some of the silver -mines in Conchucos, were murdered by their guides at a place called -<i>Palo seco</i>. This horrid act was perpetrated by crushing their heads -with two large stones, as they lay asleep on the ground; the murderers -were men who had come with them from Pasco.</p> - -<p>It is a well known fact, that many young Conchucanos go to Lima, and -enlist in the army, for the purpose of obtaining possession of a musket, -and then desert with it on the first opportunity that offers; indeed -there is scarcely a white family in the province that is not possessed -of one or more of these muskets.</p> - -<p>I have observed, that those persons who are employed in the mines in -South America are generally the most vile characters; they become inured -to every kind of vice, and as they form<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> a kind of body, or rather -banditti, they almost defy the arm of justice, and deny the power of the -law. This may in some measure account for the character of the -Conchucanos; many mines were formerly wrought by them, but since the -discovery of Pasco and Gualgayoc, which produced more ore, and of a very -superior quality, the miners of Conchucos have resorted to them, -abandoning their own less profitable ones; but they have, unfortunately, -left the seeds of their evil actions behind them, and their example is -too frequently followed.</p> - -<p>The province of Conchucos might be one of the most agreeable in Peru, if -the inhabitants were but more kind to each other, and more happy among -themselves. The various climates, assisted by the various localities of -the soil, would produce all the necessaries and all the luxuries of -life; for in the small compass of fifty leagues, a traveller experiences -the almost unbearable heat of the torrid zone, the mild climates of the -temperate, and the freezing cold of the polar regions.</p> - -<p>To the eastward of Conchucos lies the district of Huamalies: it is a -very extensive valley, generally very narrow at the bottom, where a -river runs, which takes its origin at the lake of Lauricocha, in the -province of Tarma, and is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> called the Marañon, as it is considered the -stream most distant from the mouth of the great river Marañon, or -Amazons. The temperature of this province is very irregular; to the -south it is cold, as well as on each side, according to the local height -of the different places, but to the northward, particularly in the -parish of Huacaibamba, it is extremely hot during the whole year; and -the people are here of a much darker colour, and are often called -zambos.</p> - -<p>Huamalies produces wheat, barley, maize, and the different vegetables, -fruits, and pulse of the neighbouring provinces. Near to Huacaibamba -some <i>coca</i> is cultivated. This is a small tree, with pale bright green -leaves, somewhat resembling in shape those of the orange tree. The -leaves are picked from the trees, three or four times a year, and -carefully dried in the shade; they are then packed in small baskets. The -natives, in several parts of Peru, chew these leaves, particularly in -the mining districts, when at work in the mines or travelling; and such -is the sustenance that they derive from them, that they frequently take -no food for four or five days, although they are constantly working; I -have often been assured by them, that whilst they have a good supply of -coca<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> they feel neither hunger, thirst, nor fatigue, and that, without -impairing their health, they can remain eight or ten days and nights -without sleep. The leaves are almost insipid; but when a small quantity -of lime is mixed with them they have a very agreeable sweet taste. The -natives put a few of the leaves in their mouths, and when they become -moist, they add a little lime or ashes of the molle to them, by means of -a small stick, taking care not to touch the lips or the teeth; when the -taste of the coca diminishes, a small quantity of lime or ashes is -added, until the taste disappears, and then the leaves are replaced with -fresh ones. They generally carry with them a small leather pouch -containing coca, and a small calabash holding lime or ashes; and one of -these men will undertake to convey letters to Lima, a distance of -upwards of a hundred leagues, without any other provision. On such -occasions they are called <i>chasquis</i>, or <i>chasqueros</i>, and this epithet -is also given to the different conductors of the mails. The Incas had -men stationed on all the principal roads for the transmission of any -article belonging to the Inca, who, according to the quality of the -road, had to carry it to different distances, some one league, others -two, and others three. These<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> men were continually employed, and when -one of them arrived, he delivered to the one in waiting whatever he was -charged with, and gave him the watchword, chasqui; this man ran -immediately to the next post, delivered his charge, and repeated -chasqui; and then remained to rest until the arrival of another. By -these means the court of the Incas was supplied with fresh fish from the -sea near Pachacamac, probably from the bay of Chilca, where a village of -indians employ themselves at present in fishing: it is the place to -which Pizarro was directed by the indians when in search of a good -harbour, before that of Callao was discovered. The distance from this -part of the coast to Cusco is more than a hundred leagues, yet so -vigilant and active were the indians, that Garcilaco affirms, that the -fish often arrived at Cusco alive. The communication between the most -distant parts of the empire and the capital was maintained, and it is -asserted, that by the chasqui news could be conveyed from Quito to -Cusco, a distance of six hundred leagues, in six days; while in their -route they had to cross several parts of the Cordillera, and many rapid -rivers. This, I think, proves a policy in the ancient government of -Peru, which does not well accord with the epithet of barbarians.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p><p>Large quantities of bark are brought from the woods to the eastward of -Huamalies, and is known by the name of the Arancay bark. It is -considered equal in quality with that called Calisaya, from the woods to -the eastward of La Pas. It is much to be lamented, that the destruction -of this invaluable vegetable is making great progress, wherever it has -been found; the indians discover from the eminences where a cluster of -the trees grow in the woods, for they are easily discernible by the -rose-coloured tinge of their leaves, which appear at a distance like -bunches of flowers amid the deep green foliage of other trees. They then -hunt for the spot, and having found it out, cut down all the trees, and -take the bark from the branches. If the roots sprout again, as they -generally do, no trees of any large size grow up, for they are either -smothered by the lofty trees which surround them, or else they are -choaked by other young trees, which spring up near to them, and are of -quicker growth. If the government of America do not attend to the -preservation of the quina, either by prohibiting the felling of the -trees, or obliging the territorial magistrates to enforce the cutters to -guard them from destruction, before a sufficient <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>population will allow -of those tracts of woodland becoming personal property, this highly -esteemed production of the new world will be swept from the country. -After the indians have stripped off the bark, they carry it in bundles -out of the wood for the purpose of drying it.</p> - -<p>There is undoubtedly a great loss of the medicinal matter of the -cinchona or quina, for all the bark of the trunks and of the smaller -branches is left to decay in the woods; whereas, if an extract, or the -quinine, were made from them on the spot, these drugs would become -incomparably more cheap in the European markets; besides which, the -consumption of the trees would be retarded in the same ratio, and the -useful portion which is now lost according to the present system would -be preserved.</p> - -<p>In a mountain in this province, called Chonta, several veins of cinnabar -were discovered, and the hope of extracting considerable quantities of -quicksilver from them elated the inhabitants for some time: the working -of the mine, however, has been discontinued, but for what reasons I -could never learn; the specimens of ore which I saw were certainly very -rich. Several silver mines are wrought in this district, and at <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>certain -periods of the year many of the inhabitants attend the <i>lavaderos</i>, and -collect the gold.</p> - -<p>Near the settlement of Llacta is a bed of stones, called <i>piedras del -aguila</i>, eagle stones. The natives pretend, that one is always found in -the nest of an eagle, for the purpose of causing the female to lay, and -that during the time of ovation they become heated, and retain the heat -longer than the egg does, so that when the bird leaves the nest in quest -of food, the warmth which is retained by the stone is communicated to -the eggs, and prevents them from becoming addled, and that the first -trial of the strength of the talons of the young birds is exercised in -endeavouring to carry the stone. Whether this fiction had its origin -among the indians or not I never could learn; however, some ancient -naturalists have related the same tale respecting other ætites.</p> - -<p>These stones are found loose, as if thrown into a heap; they are of a -ferruginous nature, composed of black and reddish lamina, and are all of -them dodecaedrons, although of different sizes; some weighing only a few -ounces, and others from two to three pounds each.</p> - -<p>The woods to the north abound in excellent timber: there are cedars, a -kind of mahogany, laurel, and a wood called <i>nasareno</i>; it is very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> -hard, and of a beautiful bright purple colour, with numerous veins of -different shades.</p> - -<p>The wild indians bring from the woods many delicious fruits, -pine-apples, plantains, bananas, <i>nisperos</i>, mamays, guavas, &c. as well -as sweet potatoes, <i>camotes</i>, cabbage palm, <i>palmitos</i>, and yucas.</p> - -<p>A great difference may be observed in the character and manners of the -inhabitants of Huamalies; those who border on Conchucos partake of the -unruly disposition of their neighbours; but the more we advance to the -northward, the milder and more kind we find the inhabitants; in the warm -climates they are remarkably attached to festive sports and rural -amusements. They were so much delighted with some country dances which I -taught them, that the sun often peeped over the Cordillera and convinced -some of us that it was time to go to rest, while others were apprized -that it was time to go to their work.</p> - -<p>A disease very prevalent in this province is the <i>coto</i>, bronchocele, -which greatly disfigures some of the pretty females, and for which they -possess no antidote. The Subdelegado told me, that during the stay of a -detachment of troops destined to Maynas, one of the natives, who had a -very large coto, offended a drummer,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> who drew his sword and gave the -man a severe cut across the neck; it happened that he recovered, when he -applied to the commanding officer for some remuneration for his loss of -wages during the time that he was unable to work; the drummer was -called, and observing that the man was freed from the swelling on his -throat, very wittily remarked, that he was willing to pay him for his -loss of time, if he would pay him for performing an operation which had -relieved him from a disease, that would otherwise have accompanied him -to his grave.</p> - -<p>While in Huamalies I was twice entertained with the representation of -the death of the Inca. The plasa or square had a kind of arch erected at -each corner, adorned with plate, flowers, ribbons, flags made of -handkerchiefs, and whatever could be collected to ornament them; under -one of these sat a young indian, with a crown on his head, a robe, and -other emblems of monarchy; he was surrounded by his coyas or princesses, -who sang to him in the Quichua language. Presently several indians came -running from the opposite corner of the plasa, and after prostrating -themselves, informed the Inca of the arrival of the viracochas, white -men, or children of the sun. At this time drums and trumpets were heard, -and Pizarro, with about a dozen indians,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> dressed as soldiers, made his -entry on horseback, and alighted at the arch opposite to that of the -Inca. An ambassador was now sent to the Inca by Pizarro, requesting an -interview, and the Prince immediately prepared to visit him. A kind of -litter was brought, which he entered, and, surrounded by a number of -indians and his coyas, he was carried to where Pizarro stood, and waited -for him. Pizarro first addressed the Inca, promising him the protection -of the King, his master; the answer was, the acceptance of the promise. -Pizarro then told him, that he must become a Christian, but to this he -objected, when he was immediately seized by the soldiers, and carried to -another corner of the plasa; Pizarro followed him, and ordered him to -deliver up all his treasures; he now took from him his crown, sceptre, -and robes, and then ordered him to be beheaded. The Inca was dragged to -the centre of the plasa, and laid on the ground, which one of the -soldiers struck with an axe, and a piece of red cloth was thrown over -the head of the Inca; the Spaniards then departed, and the Indians began -to wail and lament the death of their king.</p> - -<p>Although this representation was destitute of what may be called -theatrical beauty or elegance, yet the plaintive ditties, <i>yarabis</i>, -sung<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> by the coyas, particularly after the death of their beloved Inca, -were, to a feeling mind, superior to the sweetest warblings of an -Italian <i>cantatrice</i>. The surrounding scenery, the view of the -Cordilleras, the native dresses, the natives themselves, and the very -earth which the Inca had trod on, all seemed to combine to hush the -whisper of criticism, and were well calculated to rouse sympathy and -compassion from their slumbers—for however they might be opiated with -misrepresentations, or encumbered with fiction, they were not bolstered -up with flattery or hypocrisy. After three centuries have elapsed, the -memory of the ancient monarchs of this country is kept alive by the -annual representations of the cruel and unmerited death of the last of -the race; and I flatter myself that those who are the most prejudiced in -favour of the blessings that civilization has produced since the -discovery and conquest of this country, and its ill fated aborigines, by -a Christian prince, must still confess, that the preachers of the gospel -of Jesus Christ have sold to them the title of Christianity at too -usurious a price; they have been taught religion by precept, and vice by -example; promised liberty in theory, and received slavery in reality; -protection, prosperity, and tranquillity were pictured to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> them in gaudy -colours by their crafty invaders; but persecution and degradation have -been the reward of their unsuspecting confidence, and they have only -found tranquillity in the grave.</p> - -<p>The enormities committed by the first Spaniards who arrived in America -were certainly unauthorized by the Spanish Monarchs, they were the -effects of their own lust for riches. Isabella and her successors have -been actuated by a zeal for the propagation of the Christian faith, and -the most earnest charges respecting religious instruction and mild -treatment to these their inoffensive subjects have been given to all -persons in authority in the new world, and the same mild spirit breathes -out in almost every page of the <i>Recopilacion de leyes de Indias</i>. Not -only the civil magistrate and the military governor were charged with -the protection of the Indians, but the bishops and other ecclesiastics; -these injunctions are set forth in the tenth book of the <i>Recopilacion</i>, -which points out the duty of these individuals, as guardians of the -indians, commanding them to defend their persons and property against -any oppression or usurpation. The bishops and other ecclesiastics are by -the same <i>Recopilacion</i> empowered to inform and admonish the civil -magistrates, in cases of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>oppression, and some of them have refused -absolution to those Spaniards whom they knew to have treated the indians -as slaves.</p> - -<p>The avarice of individuals placed at a great distance from the personal -control of their masters is however too violent to be restrained by laws -and enactments; and many of the governors sent to the new world were as -mercenary and rapacious as their countrymen over whom they presided; the -lot of the oppressed was never regarded, if put in competition with -their own private views, which led only to the amassing of riches, and -of afterwards returning to old Spain loaded with the gold of America: -this they often effected at the expence of incurring, as they richly -deserved, the curses of the Americans.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>General Mode of Travelling from Lima to the different -Provinces....British Manufactures fit for the last Provinces -visited....General Character of the Inhabitants....Animals in the -Provinces of Huailas, Caxatambo, Conchucos, and Huamalies....Pagi -or Puma....Ucumari....Viscacha....Comadreja....Ardillas....Gato -Montes....Alco....Llama....Paco....Huanaco....Vicuña....Mulita....Birds....Condor....Vegetable -Productions....Mineral ditto....Antiquities....Diseases and -Remedies....Hydrophobia.</p></blockquote> - -<p>During my stay in Huamalies, the news of the invasion of the province of -La Plata, by the English, arrived; this induced me to return to Lima, -instead of travelling through the country to the northward, because I -knew that in the capital I should be less suspected by the government, -than by the petty governors and magistrates in the inland towns. Before -I quit the subject of the foregoing chapter I shall however make a few -general observations.</p> - -<p>The total absence of inns, or any similar establishment on the roads, or -in the towns and villages, would present to an English traveller an -almost insurmountable obstacle; and as this country is now (1824) likely -to be frequented by many of my countrymen, I think<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> it will not be -uninteresting to those who may stand in need of some information, nor -unentertaining to the public at large, if I give a concise description -of the general mode of travelling in Peru.</p> - -<p>If a resident in Lima wish to go to any considerable distance from the -capital, the best plan he can pursue is to inquire at the tambos for -<i>requas</i>, mules, which are from the country he intends to visit, and -agree with the muleteers or carriers for the number of mules he may -want. With an eye to comfort, the traveller must provide himself with a -mattress, bedding, and an almaufres, leather bag, already described, -sufficiently large to hold, besides the bed, his wearing apparel, -because the cargo would be otherwise too light.</p> - -<p>I always formed another load with a trunk, containing linen, books, and -writing materials; also a canteen, holding two or three small pans, oil, -vinegar, salt, spices, sugar, coffee, tea, knives and forks, spoons, -&c., and thus equipped, having a good poncho, saddle, <i>al uso del pais</i>, -bridle and spurs, a traveller has little to apprehend from the want of -inns. The plan I usually followed was, to go to one of the principal -houses in the town or village, and to ask if I could remain there during -my stay in that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> place; this request was never denied me, and nine times -out of ten I have had nothing to pay, with the addition, perhaps, of -letters of recommendation, or kind messages, to persons residing in the -town or village to which I was going. If it happened to be from one cura -to another, I was not the less pleased, because their society in such -places is generally the best, and their fare is certainly not the worst. -It is much to be feared, that the political changes likely to take place -in South America will be inimical to the general feeling of hospitality -in the inhabitants; civilization will teach them refinements superior to -such barbarous practices.</p> - -<p>The locality of Huaras, as I have already observed, is admirably well -calculated for mercantile speculations: this town might constitute the -general mart for the sale of European manufactured goods, as well as for -the purchase of the produce of the provinces of Huailas, Caxatambo, -Conchucos, Huamalies, Patas, and part of Huamachucos. Among European -saleable manufactures may be counted broad cloths, coarse woollen -cloths, both single and double widths; linens, such as common Irish, or -imitation of German platillas and sheeting; fine duck for trowsers, and -some lawn resembling<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> French linen, <i>estopillas</i>; narrow ribbons from -half an inch to an inch broad; some silks and velvets; cottons of all -descriptions, both white and coloured, particularly if an imitation of -the tocuyos were sent; these are yard-wide unbleached cottons, having -the thread more twisted than is generally practised, and velveteens, -plain and corded; broad flannels, green, red yellow and brown; hosiery, -both cotton and woollen; cutlery, bone-hafted knives with points are in -considerable use, and large common scissors for sheep-shearing, as the -natives are unacquainted with the kind of shears used in England; -hardware, such as pots and pans; these last ought not to be -flat-bottomed, but deeper in the middle than along the sides, with two -small rings instead of a handle; braseros from eight to twenty-four -inches diameter, and from three to five inches deep, according to the -size, with three feet, and two large rings to carry them with; those -used in the country, and their use is universal, are of copper, -principally manufactured at Lambayeque, but they are very clumsily -wrought, and sell very high; substitutes of iron and brass would find an -extensive sale; but they ought to be as light as is possible; copper and -bell-metal pans, holding from two to thirty gallons<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> each, are articles -in great demand; chocolate pots of brass, copper, or iron, holding from -one to three quarts, would also find an extensive sale; paper of a -quality similar to the Spanish paper has a considerable consumption, as -it is used for making segars; but wove paper is always rejected, because -its softness induces the natives to suppose that it is made of cotton, -the smoke of which they consider injurious.</p> - -<p>The produce of these provinces is, for the Lima market, cattle, sugar, -<i>bayetones</i>, <i>tocuyos</i>, coarse stockings, ponchos, bordillos, jerga, -sweetmeats, tobacco, some timber for particular uses, cheese, which is -of an excellent quality, butter, and other minor articles; for -exportation, bark (cinchona) of Arancay, wool, hides, and the precious -metals.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of these provinces are industrious, and generally -speaking kind and hospitable; among the indians poverty is very visible, -and the shyness which they show to white people who arrive at their -huts, <i>ranchos</i>, may be attributed to several causes—the universal -oppression which they experience from the whites—their abject state in -society—their incapacity of affording any accommodation to -travellers—and their ignorance of the Spanish language:—all these -contribute in some degree<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> to render the accusation of invincible -stupidity, as Ulloa says, apparently true; but if an indian is in what -may be termed easy circumstances, though, alas! this very rarely occurs, -he is equally kind, generous, and hospitable with the creoles or -Spaniards.</p> - -<p>Among the animals indigenous to the new world, the lion, so called by -the Spaniards, by the Peruvians <i>pagi</i>, and by some others the <i>puma</i>, -is found in the mountainous parts of the aforementioned provinces. I -have already, when speaking of the province of Conception, given a -description of this animal, together with the depredations it commits, -and the manner of killing it. The habits of the puma in Peru are similar -to those of the same animal in Chile; any further description therefore -becomes unnecessary.</p> - -<p>The name of puma was given by the ancient Peruvians to some of their -most illustrious families, whose descendants are still called Caciques; -it seems as if there were two orders of distinction among them, bearing -the titles of the particular attributes of the puma and the condor. Of -these families the unfortunate Puma-cagua, or lord of the brave lion, -was a Cacique; Colqui-puma, lord of the silver lion, is another; of the -condor here are the families of Apu-cuntur, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> great condor, -Cuntur-pusac, of eight condors, and Condor-canqui, condor by excellency, -or master of the order; this last family resides in the province of -Caxatambo.</p> - -<p>The <i>oso</i>, or <i>ucumari</i>, so called by the indians, is a black bear, -which frequents the mountainous parts of these districts. I never saw -but one domesticated; it stood two feet five inches high, and was four -feet nine inches long, the forehead flat, muzzle yellowish, two fawn -coloured spots above the eyes, and a larger one on the breast; the fur -black, long, and smooth; the small teeth placed behind the canine teeth. -The indians are more afraid of this animal than they are of the puma, -and relate many extraordinary tales about its ferocity; however I never -knew an individual who had ever seen it attack a human being, nor could -I obtain any correct account of a person being attacked by it. The -natives hunt the ucumari with the same dogs with which they chase the -puma, and the stuffed skins of these animals often adorn the corridors -of the farm houses; the indians eat the flesh of the puma—that of the -bear I have tasted, and found it very delicate. The bear usually feeds -on wild fruits and roots, and is destructive to the crops of potatoes -and maize. It seldom leaves the mountainous parts of the country, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> -when chased will roll itself down the sides of the steepest mountains to -elude its pursuers.</p> - -<p>The <i>viscacha</i> inhabits the higher ranges of the mountains, and feeds -principally on the moss which is nearest to perpetual snow: it is easily -domesticated, and the heat of the valleys does not seem prejudicial to -its health. This animal very much resembles a hare in its shape, but it -has a bushy tail as long as that of a cat; the body is covered with very -soft hair of a white and ash colour, which is as soft as silk; it was -formerly spun by the indians, and made into cloth for the use of the -Incas: thus it was the royal ermine of Peru. The flesh of the animal is -very savoury, and is considered a great delicacy.</p> - -<p>The <i>comadreja</i>, weasel, is found in different parts of these provinces; -it is about nine inches long, not including the tail, which is long and -well covered with hair; the body is round and very slender, covered with -short softish fur, of a pale yellow colour, except under the throat and -on the breast, where it is white; its legs are short and thick, and its -toes armed with sharp claws. This animal is remarkably active, runs very -fast, and seems almost to fly when it jumps; it is very destructive to -poultry, which it kills, and sucks the blood; it is also a constant -customer for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> eggs. When the natives kill one, which but seldom happens, -they preserve the skin whole, and use it for a purse.</p> - -<p>The <i>ardillas</i>, red squirrels, have a red stripe along the back; their -sides are grey, inclining to white near the belly, which is itself -beautifully white. This species is often found in the colder regions of -these provinces: it feeds on the seeds, and sometimes on the buds of the -molle and espino, called here <i>huarango</i>; it forms its habitation in a -hole among the rocks, which it furnishes with leaves, moss, and wool. -The grey squirrel is larger than the red; some of this species are -almost black, which the natives fancy are young ones, calling the -lighter coloured <i>canosos</i>, grey haired. These generally choose the -valleys or warm climates, and make their nests in hollow trees; they are -very destructive to <i>mani</i>, or ground nuts, plunder the plantations and -gardens of them, and carry their booty to their nests. They sometimes go -in bodies on marauding excursions, and if a river oppose their progress, -they embark on pieces of wood or the bark of trees, and cross it. I have -been assured at Pichiusa, that if the current drifts them down the -river, they will dip their tails in the water, so as to form a rudder, -and thus steer their fragile flotillas to the opposite shore.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p><p>The mountain cat, <i>gato montes</i>, is found in the province of Huamalies, -in the woods bordering on the Marañon; it is about three and a half feet -long, the skin is of a dirty yellow colour, with black spots and -stripes; the male has a black stripe running from between the ears along -the back. This small tiger is extremely beautiful, but it is very -savage; however it never attacks a man, and seldom molests the horses or -horned cattle; but it sometimes leaves the woods, and visits the farms -on the mountains in search of sheep and goats. The opossum, called by -the natives <i>muca muca</i>, and a species of armadillo, called <i>mulita</i>, -from the length of its ears, are found in the valleys; also a field rat -of a dark brown colour, having the tail rather club-shaped and somewhat -flattened: the flesh is considered very delicate eating.</p> - -<p>The <i>alco</i> is the constant companion of the indians: it is a dog of a -middling stature, of a black colour, the body covered with woolly hair, -except on the breast and tail, where it is stiff and straight. They bark -on the approach of any noise, and will defend their charge, whether it -be the horse or cattle, against men or beasts of prey. Two kinds of -these dogs are known here, the one just mentioned, and another smaller -one, about the size of a lap dog, which the indians frequently carry. -They seldom or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> never bark, which circumstance perhaps gave rise to the -origin of the assertion, that "the dogs of South America do not bark." -The large alco is called <i>thegua</i> in Chile, and the small one <i>kiltho</i>.</p> - -<p>Among the indigenous quadrupeds of Peru, the species of camel, by the -Spaniards called <i>carneros de la tierra</i>, demand the attention of a -traveller. These animals in many respects resemble the camel of the old -continent, but differ from them materially in others. They are less in -size, but of a more elegant form; they have a small head without horns, -but a large tuft of hair adorns the forehead; a very long, slender neck, -well proportioned ears, large round full black eyes, a short muzzle, the -upper lip more or less cleft; the body is handsomely turned, the legs -long and rather slender, the feet bipartite; the covering of the body is -a mixture of hair and wool, in different proportions, according to the -kind of animals.</p> - -<p>The lower jaw of each is furnished with six incisors, two canine teeth -and several grinders; the upper jaw with grinders only. Under the skin -the body is covered with fat, somewhat like the hog and the polar -animals, intended by nature to preserve a necessary degree of warmth, -because these animals inhabit the cold regions<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> of the Cordillera. They -are all ruminating, and have four ventricles; the second, which is -composed of two, contains a number of cavities calculated for a deposit -of water. The animals are retromingents; the time of gestation is about -twenty-two weeks, and the female seldom brings forth more than one, -which she suckles, having two teats and an abundance of milk. They have -a callous covering on the breast or sternum, on which they fall, when -reclining, either to sleep or to receive a burden; this substance -appears to be destined to defend the part against any injurious -contusion among the rocks; when sleeping they have their legs completely -folded under the belly, and they rest on the breast. Their only means of -defence is an ejection of viscous matter from the mouth, which some -persons pretend acts as a caustic, producing small pimples, and a -species of psora, but this is false.</p> - -<p>The varieties are the llama, paco, or alpaca, guanaco, and vicuña, or -vicugna. The size of a full-grown llama is as follows:—</p> - - - -<table summary="size of a full-grown llama"> - <tr> - <td class='left'></td> - <td class='left'>Ft. </td> - <td class='left'>In.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'>Height from the bottom of the foot to top of the shoulders</td> - <td class='left'>5</td> - <td class='left'>5</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'>From the first vertebre in the neck to the point of the os sacro </td> - <td class='left'>6</td> - <td class='left'>5</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'>From the point of the upper lip to that of the cranium</td> - <td class='left'>1</td> - <td class='left'>1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'>From the first vertebre of the neck to the last</td> - <td class='left'>2</td> - <td class='left'>5</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'>Height from the base of the foot to the spine of the os sacro</td> - <td class='left'>3</td> - <td class='left'>6</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'>Length of the callosity on the sternum</td> - <td class='left'>0</td> - <td class='left'>7</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'>Breadth of ditto</td> - <td class='left'>0</td> - <td class='left'>1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'>Thickness of ditto</td> - <td class='left'>0</td> - <td class='left'>0½</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'>Length of the penis</td> - <td class='left'>1</td> - <td class='left'>3</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p><p>The llama is by far the handsomest and most majestic animal of the -four; in its portly appearance it is somewhat like a stag, but the -gracefulness of its swan-like neck, its small head, and mild countenance -add much to its beauty. The colour of the llama is generally a pale -bright brown, but some are nearly white, others black, and others -mottled. The wool is coarse, but very abundant on the body, and -precludes the necessity of using pack-saddles. Nothing can exceed the -beauty of a drove of these animals, as they march along with their -cargoes on their backs, each being about a hundred pounds weight, -following each other in the most orderly manner, equal to a file of -soldiers, headed by one with a tastefully ornamented halter on his head, -covered with small hawks' bells, and a small streamer on his head: thus -they cross the snow-covered tops of the Cordillera, or defile along the -sides of the mountains. This sight is peculiarly interesting to a -stranger, and has in it what may be justly considered as something -characteristic of the country, where the mountainous tracts are ill -calculated for the service of horses or even mules. Indeed, the animal -itself seems to partake of the docility of its driver; it needs no whip -nor spur to urge it onward; but calmly paces on to its destination.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> Its -only means of defence, as before mentioned, is to spit in the face of -its oppressor; if too heavily laden with what it kneeled to receive, it -will refuse to rise until relieved of part of its load.</p> - -<p>The paco or alpaca of Peru is the chilihueque of Chile: it differs -considerably from the llama—its head is rounder, its legs are shorter -and thicker, and the body more plump; the skin is of a darker colour, -and the hair much longer and softer: like the llama it is used as a -beast of burden, kneels to receive it, and lies down if it be too heavy. -The paco bears more resemblance to a sheep than to a stag, and from its -great apparent strength seems better calculated to be used as a beast of -burden than the llama; but it is not so docile and tractable, it will -not follow the captain or leader, but generally requires to be led with -a string, passed through a small aperture made in the ear;—nor is it -more sure-footed on the ridges of the mountains. The pacos vary in -colour more than the llamas.</p> - -<p>The names of these two kinds are derived from alppaco—beast of the -country; and llamscani—that of burden, which the Spaniards translated -into carnero, sheep. It appears both from the names of these two -varieties, as well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> as from Garcilaso, Acosta, Sandoval, and other -Spanish writers, that they were domesticated before the arrival of the -Spaniards, yet the breeds have never been mixed, nor will they mingle, -for a very visible aversion exists between them, which, with the -striking difference in their construction and appearance, induces me to -believe them to be different species. They are certainly more alike than -the vicuña and the huanaco, or to either of those; so that Buffon and -Linnæus were wide of the truth when they asserted, that the llama and -the vicuña were of the same species, and equally so with respect to the -paco and the huanaco.</p> - -<p>The shape of the huanaco is very different from that of the paco—the -back of this is straight, while that of the former is hunched or -arched—the one being proper for a beast of burden, the other quite -improper. The height of the huanaco, from the fore foot to the tip of -the shoulder, is seven inches less than from the bottom of the hind feet -to the top of the rump or os sacro, on which account, when pursued it -immediately descends the mountains, leaping like the buck or the deer; -whereas, the other three species always endeavour to ascend the -mountains to escape the pursuit. The huanacos are of a dark brown -colour, inclining to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> white under the belly, where the hair is coarse -and shaggy. The forehead is rounder than that of the paco, the nose more -pointed and black, the ears straight like those of a horse, the tail is -short, and turned back like that of the stag. This species seems more -inclined to frequent warmer regions than the other three, and leaves the -mountains for the valleys, particularly in the winter season. The -huanaco is naturally gentle, and easily domesticated; but this is rarely -attempted, for in such a state it is of very little use to its owner.</p> - -<p>The vicuña is the smallest species; it is about the size of a goat, the -back less arched than the huanaco's, the neck slender, and about twenty -inches long. The body is covered with a remarkably fine soft wool, of a -pale brown colour, which is sometimes woven; it makes an exceedingly -fine cloth, but it can only be used in its native colour, or when dyed -darker: very fine hats are also manufactured of it in Lima and other -places. The vicuña seems to abound most in the Cordilleras, in about -eighteen degrees south latitude.</p> - -<p>The llama is now never found in a wild state, and the paco very seldom; -the huanaco is rarely domesticated, and the vicuña scarcely ever, owing -partly to its natural timidity, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> to the effect which a warm climate -has on it, often producing a kind of mange, of which the animal dies. As -already mentioned, the huanaco leaves the cold regions during the -winter, but the vicuña never, always preferring to live among the snow -and the ice. All the four species like best to feed on the <i>ichu</i> that -grows at the elevation of fourteen thousand feet above the level of the -sea, even in eighteen degrees of south latitude. The huanaco is caught -with dogs and the laso, or with a sling; this is made of a strip of -leather five or six feet long, to each end of which a stone weighing -about two pounds is fastened; the huntsman takes one of these stones in -his hand, and whirls the other round his head, then throws it at the -legs of the huanaco he has singled out, which becoming entangled with -the rope, the animal falls. The vicuñas being remarkably timid, fly to -the mountains, and it becomes impossible to follow them; so that for the -purpose of catching them several persons assemble, and take the side of -a mountain above the place where the vicuñas are seen feeding, and then -descending, drive them into a ravine, where they have previously -stretched a line with some rags tied to it; on approaching this the -affrighted animals collect into a cluster, and are generally all caught -and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> killed for the sake of their wool; this is not shorn; but the skins -are taken off, and sent to market.</p> - -<p>The meat of the llama and alpaca is often jerked and sold; but it is -coarse and dry; that of the young huanaco, however, is very good, and -that of the vicuña is equal to the finest venison.</p> - -<p>The wool of the llama and the huanaco is only applicable to very -ordinary purposes; but that of the paco is manufactured into the most -beautiful blankets, which are as soft as silk—that of the vicuña is -used as already mentioned.</p> - -<p>The <i>mulita</i> and <i>quiriquincho</i> are caught in the temperate and hot -valleys of Huamalies; the former is the eight-banded armadillo; it is -called mulita, or little mule, on account of its long ears, which -resemble those of that animal; this species is about eight inches long. -The quiriquincho is sometimes called <i>bolo</i>; it is the eighteen-banded -armadillo, and is about thirteen inches long from the snout to the end -of the tail. The bands are composed of a shell or shells lying -transversely on the upper part of the body, forming a kind of cuirass, -of a greyish or lead colour; the bottom part of the body is also covered -with a shell, and united at the sides with the upper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> shell like those -of the tortoise; they have four feet, short legs, a pointed snout, like -that of the hog, and a tail covered with scales, like that of the lizard -tribe. They form holes in the ground, in which they bring forth their -young, three or four every month, and feed them on fruits and -vegetables. When pursued, if on the mountains, they roll themselves up -and fall down the precipices, thus eluding their pursuers; but on the -plains they are easily caught, although they run very fast, and always -in a straight line; because their armour does not allow them to turn -round, except in a circular manner. When taken out of the shell their -flesh is very white, with a layer of fat similar to that of a hog. The -natives dress them in a curious manner; they separate the two shells, -clean the meat and season it with capsicum, salt, onions, and herbs, -place it in the upper shell, and cover it with the underneath one; they -then stew it in an oven, and it is certainly most delicious eating. The -children often twist the intestines into strings, and form small guitars -of the shells.</p> - -<p>The birds in these provinces consist of several species of eagles, -hawks, falcons, and kites; the gallinaso, several kinds of wild pigeons, -finches, a kind of thrush, blackbirds, and on the borders of the Marañon -a great variety of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> parrots, but these never pass the mountains into the -valleys or ravines. The <i>picaflor</i>, humming bird, is found in all the -warm climates of these districts. I have counted five varieties, and -have often caught them with my hat, when the fairy-like creatures have -been employed in sipping the honey of the plantain flower.</p> - -<p>The majestic condor holds his court in the mountainous parts of South -America, and makes excursions in search of food to the valleys and the -coast. Three varieties inhabit these provinces, the largest is called -moro moro; the ruff which encircles the neck and back is of a dark grey -colour; the latter is produced from some feathers in the wings of this -colour, which when folded fall on the back, and form what the natives -call the cloak; but the short feathers on the back as well as the rest -of the body are of a deep black colour. The male of this species is -distinguished from the female by a large crest on the head like a crown; -the neck being covered with short hairs appears naked, of a dark blue -colour; the skin forms folds or curls round the neck of the bird, at the -bottom of which is a ruff of grey feathers, each about ten inches long -and rather curled. This bird measures from thirteen to fifteen feet from -the tip of one wing to the tip of the other.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p><p>The second variety has the ruff and cloak of a light brown or pale -coffee colour; it measures from eleven to thirteen feet; the third has -the ruff and cloak white, and measures from nine to eleven feet; this -variety abounds most, and is the most elegant.</p> - -<p>Dr. Unanue says, that in a dissection of this bird he found no vessel of -communication between the lungs and the spongy substance of the -clavicles; and he affirms that there is no communication between the -stomach and the trachea; that the superior cavity of the body is lined -with a delicate transparent pleura, divided into several small cells; -that the lungs descend to the lower cavity of the body, and the -posterior part of them adhere to the spine and ribs, and that these are -perforated at the union, which perforation communicates with the spongy -body in the inside of them. The texture of the lungs is very porous, and -when inflated by blowing through the trachea, a quantity of air escapes, -and fills the large and small apertures that surround them, as well as -those of the sternum and ribs.</p> - -<p>From this construction, it would appear, that the bird is endowed with -the powers of forming a vacuum in a considerable portion of the body, to -assist in rendering the whole lighter, and thus<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> to enable it to soar to -the enormous height of nineteen thousand feet, where the atmosphere is -of much less density than at the earth's surface.</p> - -<p>The beak of the moro moro is four inches long, very thick, and curved; -black at its base, and white towards the point. The thigh is ten inches -and a half long, the leg only six inches; the foot is furnished with -four strong toes; the middle toe, which is almost six inches, is -terminated with a whitish curved talon, two inches long; the two lateral -toes are not so long; and the three have each three joints; the hind toe -is two inches long, the nail one, and this toe has only one joint. The -tail is entire, but small in proportion to the size of the bird. The -large quills in the wings are commonly two feet nine inches long, and -the barrel more than three-quarters of an inch in diameter. The three -varieties all build their nests on the most inaccessible cliffs, and lay -two large white eggs.</p> - -<p>The condors feed either on carcases, or on animals which they themselves -kill; lambs and kids always require the care of the shepherd or the dog; -and calves, if at a distance from the cows, frequently become their -prey. They generally make their first attack on the head, and tear out -the eyes. I once saw<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> some condors attack a cow which had sunk into a -quagmire and could not extricate herself; the first attack of these -animals was on the anus, whence they drew out the intestines, and thus -killed the animal, without regarding the noise that we made, as if -sensible that we should not venture to rescue her from the mire. They -are so voracious, and will feed to such a degree, that they cannot rise -from the ground, but run in search of an eminence whence they can throw -themselves on the wing. They soar aloft and swim in the air without any -motion of the wings being visible.</p> - -<p>The vegetable productions are wheat, barley, maize, pease, beans, -lentils, quinua, potatoes, camotes, yucas, arracachas, ocas, radishes, -turnips, cabbages, cauliflowers, lettuces, mangle wurzle, beet, apples, -pears, guinds, peaches, almonds, apricots, grapes, melons, pine-apples, -plantains, bananas, and several other equinoctial fruits; the woods are -molle, cedar, huarango, alerce, and in the forests bordering on the -Marañon cascol, caoba, nasareno, with many other varieties, and -excellent cinchona bark near to Arancay.</p> - -<p>The mineral productions are gold, silver, mercury, tin, iron, coal, -sulphur, ætites, and several kinds of marble; but as no quarries have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> -been wrought, and only some few samples are found in the possession of -different persons at Huaras, Corongos, and in that of various parochial -curates, the extent of the veins remains unknown, as well as the -peculiar qualities of the stone. Many other mineral productions, unknown -at present, will undoubtedly become objects of importance to the -geologist, mineralogist, and chemist, now that the revolution has -secured the independence of the country, and scientific individuals may -visit it, which was not the case when the Spanish colonial laws were in -force. To the botanist and florist the same opportunity presents itself, -and South America may almost as justly be termed a new world, as it was -when discovered by the indefatigable, ill-rewarded Columbus.</p> - -<p>The remains of antiquity in any country attract the notice of a -traveller; different individuals view them through different mediums, -but all observe them in some light or other; some for their beauty and -symmetry, as monuments of extraordinary genius and labour; others as -merely picturesque, romantic ornaments in the prospect, relieving the -dreary, or enlivening the interesting scenery; others search for -combinations of features, and endeavour to account for the origin in the -imitations; and others<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> merely wonder how and for what purpose such -immense labour was undertaken. Notwithstanding this diversity of tastes, -all examine, and each in his particular province admires; but alas! -though philosophical researches are of the highest importance to -history, yet in South America the monuments which present themselves -only serve to evince the intolerant spirit of the European nation which -invaded this part of the new world: a people who demolished the temples, -labouring under the influence of superstition; and destroyed the palaces -and other public buildings under the influence of cupidity, in search of -hidden treasure; and this with such wanton barbarity, that only vestiges -remain to shew where the works of nations and of ages once stood—to -exact the tear of the surviving native, the sigh of the sympathizing -visitor, and to reproach the Spaniard and the creole with the lawless -havoc of their forefathers.</p> - -<p>The remains of the Incas' road, or the military causeway, which Humboldt -says "may be compared to the finest Roman roads I have seen in Italy, -France or Spain," passes through Huamalies alto, and in some places is -perfectly straight for more than half a league; it is generally lined -with freestone, and evinces the labour of an industrious obedient -people, and is scarcely<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> to be equalled except by the Chinese wall; -especially if we consider the extent of it, from Cusco to Quito, which -is a distance of not less than seven hundred leagues. It was most -probably built at different periods, by the orders of the different -reigning Incas, as they enlarged their conquests; and the continuation -might possibly be the first tax or duty imposed on the conquered -nations. Some parts of this road are at the astonishing elevation of -twelve thousand four hundred and seventy-five feet above the level of -the sea; indeed it is almost every where so situated, that the marches -of the army, or the Inca on his passage, might not suffer from the hot -climates in the valleys.</p> - -<p>Near to the village of Baños in Huamalies is a spring of hot water, -where some very capacious baths were built by the Incas, similar to -those at Caxamarca, but more extensive. The ruins of a large building, -called the palace of the Inca, are found at a short distance from the -baths; it was built of stone, and is like those of Cañar and Callo, in -the province of Quito. The situation is beautifully romantic; it is the -summit of a mountain, and commands an extensive prospect of the river -Marañon, the woods and forests to the eastward, and the mountains and -valleys to the westward. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> building can only be traced by the -foundations and fragments of walls, all of stone, so exactly cut, or -perhaps ground by rubbing the sides together, that the interstices are -scarcely perceptible. It contained several enclosures, which were -probably a kind of barracks for the army. Near to the palace are the -ruins of a temple, of a circular form, and on the top of two mountains, -one on each side of the river, are the remains of two fortresses, the -sides of the mountains being divided into a sort of galleries one above -another; in some parts these are formed by building breastworks, and in -others they are cut out of the solid rock, the breastwork being left in -the solid stone. The indians assert, that a subterraneous passage under -the river opened a communication between the two fortresses; and however -improbable the execution of such a work may appear to modern architects, -yet the possibility and almost the proof exists in the very astonishing -works of labour and art executed by the Peruvians.</p> - -<p>The diseases most prevalent in these provinces are, pulmonic -inflammations, inflammatory fevers, <i>bicho</i>, and <i>pasmo</i>. The indians -have applied the name <i>dolor de costado</i>, pain in the side, to the -pleurisy. When under the direction of a regular practitioner, the -Spanish method<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> of curing is by bathing the affected part with oil, and -taking expectorants; but the method observed by the indians accords much -better with the practice in England. They scarify the part with a sharp -knife, and if the flow of blood be not sufficiently abundant, a person -applies his mouth to the incisions and extracts the blood, this -answering all the purposes of cupping. Some whip the side affected with -nettles, and then bathe it with hot vinegar, applying afterwards a -cataplasm of garlic, onions, and the flour of beans.</p> - -<p>The inflammatory fever called <i>tabardillo</i> is common in the hot as well -as cold climates. The curative method adopted by the indians may, in its -prognostic, be considered an improvement on the cold affusion. Some clay -is procured, and mixed with water until it acquire the consistency of -batter, the patient is smeared all over his body with it; after an hour -or two an examination takes place, and if the clay has become parched, -and is peeled off, death is considered to be the inevitable result; but -if it be cracked, and the pieces adhere to the body, a favourable result -is expected. This is most probably the fruit of observation, as I -believe the science of medicine among such people generally is; but the -effect of the application in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> the latter case is a copious perspiration, -which is absorbed by the clay, by which an adhesion to the cutis takes -place, and prevents it from falling off; thus the experiment, if not at -first founded on scientific principles, has been undoubtedly supported -by practical facts.</p> - -<p>The <i>bicho</i> is an endemical disease, known only in the hot valleys; it -is an ulcer of a gangrenous tendency in the colon, and if not attended -to in time is generally mortal. The indians use very stiptic injections, -and believe the origin to be caused by a grub, <i>bicho</i>. Those who reside -in cold climates, and when in the valleys eat abundance of fruit, are -most subject to this disease.</p> - -<p>The <i>pasmo</i> is generally brought on by wetting a wound, or ulcer, with -cold water; it is particularly prevalent in the hot climates of the -valleys; it is a general nervous convulsion; the first effects are a -tetanus, after which the most excruciating pains afflict the patient, -until relieved by death, for no remedy has as yet been found effectual.</p> - -<p>The bronchocele, or goitres, is common in some parts of these provinces, -particularly in the neighbourhood of Huacaibamba; it is a disagreeable -affliction without any known antidote.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p><p>The syphilis, as I have before observed, is extremely virulent in the -cold climates of the interior; the usual remedies applied are -sarsaparilla, guaiacum, and sassafras, but very seldom mercury, owing to -the dread that the natives have of its administration.</p> - -<p>Madness in dogs was unknown in America until the year 1803, when it made -its appearance along the coast between Paita and Lima; in 1807 many were -affected with it in Lima, to the southward as far as Arica, and -Arequipa, and to the northward of Lima in the valleys of the interior. -Dr. Unanue says, "after having collected all the data, and having -consulted those of the faculty, and other intelligent persons who had -witnessed the effects, I have deduced,</p> - -<p>"Firstly—That this spontaneous madness originated in the excessive -increase of heat in 1803 and 1804, which caused almost all kinds of -animals to throw themselves into the pits and lakes to refresh -themselves.</p> - -<p>"Secondly—That this disease attacked indiscriminately all kinds of -quadrupeds, some of which, in the most furious manner, tore the flesh -from their bones with their teeth: several men were also affected with -symptoms of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>hydrophobia without having been bitten by any animal.</p> - -<p>"Thirdly—It was most common among dogs; but some, although apparently -affected, caused no symptoms in their bite except the ordinary ones; but -from the bite of others on their own species, other quadrupeds, and men, -the most dreadful symptoms of hydrophobia were propagated. On one of the -plantations an overseer distributed among the slaves the meat of several -animals which had died mad, believing that the meat was not contagious; -but several of the negroes who ate of it died in a state of madness.</p> - -<p>"Fourthly—In the cities of Ica and Arequipa the greatest number of -persons died from the bite of mad dogs. At Ica one dog bit fourteen -individuals in one night. Notwithstanding the advice of the surgeon -Estrada, they all refused medical assistance except two—the remaining -twelve died. The method of cure adopted was, a caustic applied to the -part affected, suppuration was promoted, and mercurial unctions were -applied until a copious salivation was established. Professor Estrada -says, that forty-two persons died at Ica, at different epochs from -twelve to ninety days after they were bit. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> symptoms were -convulsions, oppression in the chest, languor, difficult respiration, -horror at the sight of liquids or any shining substance, atrabilious -vomit, and great fury against the nurses. After the first appearance of -these symptoms, death ensued within about five days."</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Travels to the North of Lima....Village of Pativilca....Of -Huarmey....Of Casma....Cotton Mill....Santa....River -Santa....Nepeña....Farm of Motocachi....Vineyard....Port of -Santa....<i>Tambo de Chao</i>....Viru....Truxillo....Itinerary between -Lima and Truxillo....Description of -Truxillo....Buildings....Inhabitants....Climate....Commerce....Jurisdiction....Arms....Plain -de Chimu....<i>Huaca de Toledo</i>....Tradition of....Huanchaco -Port....Valleys of Chimu, Chicama, and Viru....Productions....Road -to Caxamarca....Contumasa....Magdalena....Gold Mines....View of -Caxamarca....Origin of Name of....Description -of....Buildings....Inhabitants....Arts and Manufactures of....Visit -to San Pablo....Market of Caxamarca....Trade of....Hot -Baths....Description of.</p></blockquote> - -<p>As soon as the political affairs of South America rendered it safe for -an Englishman to travel unsuspected, I visited some of the northern -provinces. I remained at Pativilca a few days, and then prosecuted my -journey to Huarmey: this is a small indian village, famous only for -chicha, which is remarkably strong, eighteen gallons only being made -from three bushels of jora, malted maize. The next village is Casma, -where a considerable quantity of cotton is grown, and where a mill for -separating the seeds is established by Don Benito Canicova. The -machinery is very simple—a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> large drum or hollow cylinder is put in -motion by two mules or oxen; straps pass round this drum and round a -small wheel attached to a fluted steel cylinder, about half an inch in -diameter; in the same horizontal line there is another similar steel -cylinder: when put in motion, the cotton is applied to the steel -cylinders, which drag it between them, separating the seeds from it, and -these fall down on the side next the workmen, while the cotton is thrown -out on the opposite side. A very powerful screw-press is used for -packing the cotton, which is generally exported to the European market.</p> - -<p>The soil here is sandy; the climate, owing to the position of the place, -which is enclosed on three sides by high mountains, is hot, and the -cotton is very fine; on this account Casma will probably become more -populous than it is at present, and a town of more note. The pine-apples -which grow here are very fine, and many of them are carried to Lima.</p> - -<p>Our next stage brought us to Santa, having passed the small hamlet of -Huambacho. Santa is the residence of the Subdelegado, and capital of the -district of the same name; it is the poorest in Peru, for when a -corregimiento its distribution, repartimiento, amounted only to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> -twenty-five thousand dollars, and its alcavala to two hundred. The town -is composed of about thirty ill-built houses and ranchos; the old town -stood near to the sea coast, and was much larger than the present one, -but it was destroyed in 1685 by Edward David, a Dutch pirate; the -inhabitants afterwards established themselves about half a league -further from the coast. The King granted to this hamlet the title of -city, on account of the gallant resistance which the inhabitants made -against David, and particularly for their having preserved from the -hands of the pirate a miraculous image of Christ crucified, the gift of -the Emperor Charles the Fifth, and which is still venerated in the new -church.</p> - -<p>About two leagues to the northward of the town is the river Santa; it -rises in the province of Huailas, and enters the Pacific in 8° 57' 33" -south latitude. At the mouth it is about one thousand eight hundred -yards wide, and its current, during the rainy season in the interior, -often flows at the rate of seven miles an hour; at this time of the year -it cannot be forded without great risk. In 1795 a rope bridge was thrown -across it, about a league from the mouth, but this was destroyed in 1806 -by an unprecedented rise of the water, which caught the bridge and -dragged it away.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span></p><p>The valley of Santa contains some good farms, which are principally -covered with lucern, and great numbers of horned cattle are fattened -here for the Lima market. Some maize is also cultivated for the feeding -of hogs, the lard of which is carried to Lima; here also they have fine -crops of rice; indeed such is the heat, the natural dampness of the -earth, and the abundance as well as the quality of the water (which like -that of the Nile enriches the soil) used for the purpose of irrigation, -that three successive crops are often procured from the same seed.</p> - -<p>About six leagues to the eastward of Santa is a very neat town, called -Nepeña; the climate is far more agreeable than at Santa, and the -inhabitants are not incommoded with musquitos, which are very annoying -at the former place, owing to the low swampy ground, where they breed in -such prodigious quantities, that it is sometimes almost impossible to -breathe without inhaling them. Their bite is very troublesome, and many -of the inhabitants, from continually scratching themselves, become -almost covered with an eruptive disease similar to the <i>carati</i> at -Huaura; along the coast it is common to hear the Santeños called -<i>sarnosos</i>, from <i>sarna</i>, the itch. In the neighbourhood of Nepeña there -are several sugar plantations and vineyards. The farm called Motocachi -is famous for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>producing excellent wine, which in flavour is not -inferior to the best muscatel of Spain, or the frontignac of France. The -brandy made from the same grape is also peculiarly delicate, possessing -all the flavour of the wine; it is in great demand, and is called -<i>aguardiente de Italia</i>.</p> - -<p>The port of Santa has a safe anchorage, and is capable of containing a -considerable number of vessels; during the time of peace between England -and Spain many South Sea whalers touched here, for the purpose of -procuring fresh provisions; and considerable business in the smuggling -line has been carried on. This port and town will undoubtedly become -more known and more frequented, because its situation offers an easy -internation to the provinces which I have lastly described, and a saving -of upwards of a hundred leagues of land carriage to some of them. Callao -is now the only <i>Puerto abilitado</i>; but the newly-established -governments will not be so ignorant of their financial interests as to -suffer it to continue so.</p> - -<p>We left Santa early in the morning, and arrived before noon at <i>Tambo de -Chao</i>, a house built of rushes in a sandy desert, nine leagues from -Santa; having refreshed ourselves a little, and fed the mules, we -proceeded to a small<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> village called Viru, where we halted for the -night, and on the following day we arrived at the city of Truxillo.</p> - -<p>The following short account of the road from Lima to Truxillo will -convey some idea of the nature of travelling, and the kind of -accommodations which travellers may expect who have to visit these -countries. Some persons have <i>literas</i>, litters, for this purpose: they -are square boxes, with an opening on each side which serve for -entrances; a small mattress made to fit is placed at the bottom; this -vehicle is then fastened to two poles, one on each side, and these are -secured on the backs of two mules, on the foremost of which a boy is -generally placed, to guide the animal. This mode of travelling is very -disagreeable, owing to the various motions communicated to the litera; -the elasticity of the poles causes it to rise and fall, while the steps -of the mules make it sometimes roll from side to side, and sometimes it -is jerked backwards and forwards; so that a person unaccustomed to this -mode of travelling is almost sure to experience all the effects of a -sea-sickness, besides a universal soreness in his limbs, occasioned by -the jolting of the litter.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p> - -<table summary="road from Lima to Truxillo"> - <tr> - <td class='left'>From</td> - <td class='left'> Lima to Chancay</td> - <td>14</td> - <td class='left'> leagues,</td> - <td>11</td> - <td> of sand.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'></td> - <td class='left'> Chancay to Huaura</td> - <td>13</td> - <td class='left'> ditto</td> - <td>9</td> - <td> of sand.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'></td> - <td class='left'> Huaura to Pativilca</td> - <td>13</td> - <td class='left'> ditto</td> - <td>9</td> - <td> of sand.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'></td> - <td class='left'> Pativilca to Huarmey</td> - <td>18</td> - <td class='left'> ditto</td> - <td>15</td> - <td> of sand.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'></td> - <td class='left'> Huarmey to Casma</td> - <td>8</td> - <td class='left'> ditto</td> - <td>7</td> - <td> of sand.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'></td> - <td class='left'> Casma to Santa</td> - <td>12</td> - <td class='left'> ditto</td> - <td>10</td> - <td> of sand.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'></td> - <td class='left'> Santa to Tambo de Chao</td> - <td>9</td> - <td class='left'> ditto</td> - <td>9</td> - <td> of sand.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'></td> - <td class='left'> Tambo de Chao to Viru</td> - <td>10</td> - <td class='left'> ditto</td> - <td>10</td> - <td> of sand.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class='left'></td> - <td class='left'> Viru to Truxillo</td> - <td>10</td> - <td class='left'> ditto</td> - <td>8</td> - <td> of sand.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>We have here one hundred and eight leagues of road, one-half of which -leads through a sandy desert country, the greater part of which must for -ever remain so: this is principally owing to the total absence of rain, -the scarcity of river water, or the impracticability of irrigation; but -wherever water can be procured, the scene is quite different; -comfortable farm houses, neat villages, and the most luxurious -vegetation enliven the views to the weary traveller; the eye soon -becomes tired with a dreary sandy prospect, or with now and then -beholding a few leagues of the sea coast; but it rests with pleasure and -is refreshed with the prospect of fertile valleys, clothed in the -luxurious garb of spring or autumn—where the evergreen sugar-cane, the -lucern, the hedges, and the ripe crops of grain are blended; which is -the case here during the greater part of the year.</p> - -<p>The city of Truxillo stands on a sandy plain in lat. 8° 6' 3" S.; it was -founded by Francisco<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> Pizarro, Marquis of Charcas and Atavillos, the -conqueror of Peru, who named it after his native place in Estremadura; -its figure approaches to that of an oval, it is surrounded with a wall -of adobes or sun-burnt bricks, ten feet high, having fifteen bastions -and as many curtains; it was erected by order of the Viceroy of Peru, -Duke de la Palata. The streets of this city cross each other at right -angles in a north-east and south-west direction, and are generally about -forty feet wide. The houses, like those of Lima, are generally but one -story high; many of the fronts are white-washed, and some of them -fancifully painted. The principal mansions have large patios in front, -and an arched door-way or entrance; the insides are richly furnished, -but not in the English style; long sofas, high tables, and few chairs, -having an awkward appearance to a foreigner; the walls are hung with -crimson damask, and the sofa and table covers are of the same material, -as well as the curtains and the bed furniture. In many houses, large -paintings of saints, in richly embossed silver frames, adorn the walls, -and the wealth of many of the inhabitants is displayed in a profusion of -wrought plate. Some of the shops in <i>la Calle del Comercio</i> are well -stored with European manufactured goods; but, as in Lima, no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> display of -them can be made for want of windows, a convenient enticement to -purchasers unknown in these parts of the new world. Although the streets -of this city are well laid out, of a commodious width, and lined with -neat houses, they are not paved, and consequently are very dirty; some -of them are nearly impassable on this account; indeed the shoes of a -passenger must be filled either with sand or dirt.</p> - -<p>The plasa mayor, or great square, is very large, and has a low fountain -built of stone in the centre. On the east side stands the cathedral, -which is a handsome building with one steeple; the inside is richly -ornamented, and a great profusion of plate and other costly articles is -exhibited on solemn festivals; but, like all the cathedrals in Spanish -America, the site occupied by the choir destroys the effect which would -otherwise be produced by the high altar standing in the central nave. -This church was consecrated in the year 1673, by the thirteenth bishop -of the diocese, Don Fray Juan de la Calle y Heredia. Attached to the -cathedral on the north side, is the Sagrario or principal parish church, -although always called a chapel; indeed it is the chapel of ease to the -cathedral, where all the parochial duties are performed, without -interfering with the choral and other religious ceremonies of the -matrix.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p><p>On the opposite side of the cathedral stands the palace of the bishop; -it is a large old decayed building, the inside of which is fitted up in -a style of antique magnificence, for every succeeding bishop has -generally purchased the furniture which belonged to his predecessor. The -palace has an upper story, which is occupied by the bishop and his -domestics; in the lower is the ecclesiastical prison, the different -offices, stables, &c.</p> - -<p>On the north-west side of the plasa are the palace of the governor, and -the government offices, such as the royal treasury; the <i>callana</i>, where -the plata piña is melted and stamped and the royal fifth is paid; also -that of the secretary to the governor. The whole range of buildings has -a low and mean appearance. The two remaining sides of the square are -filled with the houses of private individuals, among which is that of -the Marquis of Bellavista, the only title in Truxillo.</p> - -<p>Besides the cathedral there are three parish churches, Santa Ana, San -Sebastian, and San Esteban; five conventual churches of San Francisco, -Santo Domingo, San Augustin, La Merced, and the ex-Jesuits; and two -nunneries, the barefooted Carmelites, and Santa Clara. The convents are -governed by their prelates, who are subject to their respective -provinciales in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> Lima: in the college of ex-Jesuits a seminary is -established, and the college of San Carlos is subject to the bishop. The -nuns of Santa Clara are under the direction of the Franciscan prelate, -as belonging to that order; and the Carmelites are under that of the -ordinary, the bishop; there is also a hospital managed by the Bethlemite -friars.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Truxillo consist of a few Spaniards, some white -creoles, indians, negroes, and the castes arising from the mixture of -these, amounting in the whole to about eight thousand souls. This city -is celebrated as being the birth-place and residence of some very -handsome <i>mulatas</i> and other females of colour; indeed the features of -many are very pleasing, and the castes remarkably free from those stains -which not unfrequently render the complexion of coloured people so very -disagreeable. Truxillo is noted for its Quixotic nobility; it is often -said, that the body of this celebrated Don was buried here; I have -frequently seen in the house of a mulatto or a zambo a full-length -portrait of the individual, who by a kind of faux pas caused them to -emerge from the African race, and sable colour, and of whom they speak -with as much respect as the <i>montañeses</i> do of Don Pelayo, whose -descendants they all pretend<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> to be, or as any nobleman of England would -do of Ptolemy or Alexander, if he fancied that he could trace his -pedigree either to the Egyptian astronomer or the Macedonian hero.</p> - -<p>There is nothing peculiar in the dress of the inhabitants; the men wear -their clothes nearly in the European style, with the addition of a cloak -or a poncho; the females, unlike to those of Lima, may be seen in the -streets in their in-door dresses, but seldom with either hat, cap, or -bonnet; their heads being usually covered with a shawl. The higher -classes, and all who can afford it, have <i>calesas</i>, a close carriage on -two wheels, drawn by a mule, on which the coachman rides. The general -<i>paseo</i> for the ladies is to <i>Mansiche</i>, a small indian village to the -northward of the city, about half a league from the walls, where they -resort during the cool of the evening mounted on asses, having a kind of -pack-saddle covered with very gay trappings of crimson broad-cloth or -velvet, embroidered and fringed with gold or silk. The ladies ride -sideways, and frequently two are mounted on the same ass, with their -feet hanging on the opposite sides; one of the ladies generally wears a -small spur. At Mansiche they treat themselves with <i>picantes</i>, dishes -highly seasoned with aji, cayenne pepper; they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> also drink chicha, and -generally return to the city about sunset.</p> - -<p>The climate of Truxillo is colder than that of Lima during the winter -season or the damp months, and much hotter during the summer. The market -is plentifully supplied with fish, flesh meat, poultry, bread, -vegetables and fruit; and is much celebrated for delicate sweetmeats, -among which the preserved muscadine grapes are most esteemed.</p> - -<p>Little commercial business is here transacted, and the city owes great -part of its prosperity to its being the residence of the governor, the -bishop, and the several persons employed in the civil and ecclesiastical -departments.</p> - -<p>The jurisdiction of the Gobernador Intendente extends along the coast -from the river Saña to the river Santa, and eastward to the Marañon. As -it includes many valleys and several mountainous districts, in it all -the various climates may be found. The civic jurisdiction of the -alcaldes is the same here as in other cities in the Spanish colonies.</p> - -<p>The ecclesiastical jurisdiction contains thirty-one doctrinal curacies; -it is in the hands of the bishop, who is assisted by his vicar-general, -provisor, and the chapter, which is composed of the dean, the -archdeacon, the chanter, four canons and two prebendaries.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span></p><p>The arms of the city are a shield, azure, bearing a griffin; in the -centre two columns, one blue, the other white, over water, in which -there is a crown, Or, crossed by two bars, Argent, underneath which is -the letter K.</p> - -<p>Truxillo suffered very much from earthquakes on the 14th of February, -1619—the 6th of January, 1625—the 20th of October, 1759—and the 2nd -of September, 1759. The last shock was very violent, and some of the -valleys near the coast, which, before it happened, produced the most -abundant crops of wheat, became quite sterile for more than twenty years -afterwards.</p> - -<p>The plain on which the city of Truxillo is built is called <i>del Chimu</i>, -this being the title of the sovereign chief who resided here, and -signifying the powerful Lord: this chief, after resisting the Incas of -Peru from the time of Lloqui Yupanqui to that of Pachacutec, the tenth -Inca, at length subjected himself, swearing allegiance to the Inca at -the fortalice of Paramonga. In the plain are the ruins of the ancient -residence of the Chimu; they appear like the foundations of a large city -or the walks of a garden, crossing each other at right angles, and -denote the residence of the numerous tribe which formerly inhabited this -site, and prove, also, that their chief had a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>respectable force at his -command, with which he could oppose the incursions of the imperial army; -this he continued to do until the Incas, by gradually augmenting their -army with soldiers collected from the numerous tribes, which for nearly -a century they had been annexing to their empire, were able to subdue -this chief of the coast.</p> - -<p>The custom of burying with the dead whatever belonged to them at their -decease seems to have been prevalent among the Chimu tribes, for their -huacas contain utensils, arms, clothing, and treasure, exactly in the -manner as those of the indians in other parts of Peru. The same -attention is also paid to economizing land fit for cultivation: the -ruins just mentioned being situated on an elevated plain, where water -could not be procured for the purpose of irrigation. In the year 1576, a -Spaniard, named Juan Gutierres de Toledo, opened a huaca, which was -supposed to have been that of one of the Chimus, in which he found so -large a quantity of gold, that he paid into the royal treasury of -Truxillo nine thousand three hundred and sixty-two ounces of gold, as -the royal fifth, the value of the whole being upwards of a hundred and -fifty thousand pounds sterling.</p> - -<p>The tradition respecting the discovery of this treasure is as -follows:—Toledo was a poor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> Spaniard, who, on his arrival at Huanchaco, -the sea-port to Truxillo, took up his residence at the house of an -indian named Tello: Toledo was of a mild disposition, and endeavoured to -conciliate the good-will of his host, which he easily accomplished; he -afterwards removed to Truxillo, and with the assistance of Tello opened -a small store; the friendship of the Spaniard and the indian increased, -so that Toledo became godfather to one of the children of Tello, which -is considered to this day as the greatest favour that a white man can -show to an indian. Tello one day told his friend that it was in his -power to repay all the kindness which he had received, and to make his -friend rich by giving to him a huaca, which, after some preliminary -arrangements, he did. Toledo followed the directions of his friend, and -found the value already mentioned in bars, and some household utensils -of gold. Having thanked his guide who had conducted him to the wealth he -had acquired, Tello told him that on a future day he would give him the -great fish, the one which he had given him being only the little fish; -but he died without discovering it, or giving him any clue to find it. -Toledo, in gratitude to the memory of his benefactor, redeemed the -tribute of the indians of Huauchaco<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> by paying a certain sum of money -into the treasury, the fruit of which just and generous action the -indians still continue to enjoy; and a native of the village always -carries with him, if he go to reside in any other part of the country, a -certificate of his birth, which every where frees him from the payment -of this tax. This action of Tello clearly proves that a South American -indian is not incapable of possessing those feelings which have been -denied to their character by some of their visitors and historians.</p> - -<p>The great fish mentioned by Tello is generally believed to be a mountain -or large hill near to the huaca de Toledo, and visible at Truxillo. This -hill has every appearance of having been formed by art; it stands on the -sandy plain of Chimu, quite isolated, and seems to be nothing but a huge -portion of sand, which being poured down from an eminence would assume -the shape which this mound bears. Many persons have attempted -excavations, but the falling down of the loose materials, of which the -hill is formed, has prevented the continuation of the work. If an adit -were cut through it there is little reason to doubt but that an immense -treasure would be found. Humboldt speaks of the same experiment being -worthy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> of attention when describing the Teocalli of Cholula.</p> - -<p>The sea-port to Truxillo is called Huanchaco; it is a roadstead in which -the anchorage is not good, and where the landing, owing to the surf, is -attended with considerable inconvenience; this, however, might be partly -removed by the erection of a pier, which will probably be effected when -the commerce with this part of Peru becomes interesting. The latitude of -Huanchaco is 8° 6´—the church, which stands on an eminence, is an -excellent land-mark.</p> - -<p>The valleys of Chimu, Chicama, and Viru, may be considered as one, being -separated from each other only by the branches of the Chicama river. -United they are about twenty-eight leagues long and eleven broad; their -soil, irrigated by the waters of the river, is very fertile, producing -most abundant crops of wheat, maize and other pulse, as well as grapes, -olives, sugar-cane, plantains, pine-apples, lucumas, guavas, mamey -apples, custard apples, tumbos, chirimoyas, guanabanas, together with a -variety of esculents, potatoes, camotes, yucas, radishes, &c. Formerly -the valley of Chicama was called the granary of Peru, and until the -great earthquake in 1687, the wheat produced its seed two hundred fold; -this valley alone harvested <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>annually two hundred thousand bushels of -this grain. Here are many sugar plantations, but for want of hands they -are not so well cultivated, and consequently not so productive as those -in the valleys in the neighbourhood of Lima and Pisco. Little doubt can -be entertained but that this beautiful and fruitful valley, at some -future period, will become one of the most interesting settlements on -the coast of Peru, on account of its great extent, the quality of its -soil, and the abundance of water. Cotton and rice appear to claim -particular attention, but their cultivation has hitherto been little -promoted.</p> - -<p>I left Truxillo with the <i>chasquero</i>, postman, which is a commodious and -quick way of travelling, and especially if the person has no luggage, or -can trust it to a muleteer to follow him; because the postman demands a -horse or a mule at each stage, for which is paid a real, or one-eighth -of a dollar per league. After travelling along the valley of Chicama -about eight leagues, we stopped at a small village, called Simbal, -changed horses for mules, and then began to ascend the <i>cuesta</i>; we -continued to travel in this manner, with now and then a small descent or -a little level road, till we arrived at Contumasá, at ten o'clock at -night, having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> ridden twenty-one leagues in eleven hours. Although the -latter part of the road appeared rugged from the frequent stumbling of -the mules, I was obliged to allow mine to take its own choice, because -for the last three hours the darkness prevented me from seeing how to -direct it.</p> - -<p>The village of Contumasá is situated on an eminence where the climate is -much colder than that which I had just left; the houses are either -thatched or tiled, and the whole of the country, habitations and people, -appear different. The glow of a tropical sky at sunrise and sunset was -changed to a pale blue, with light white clouds, or more dense ones -charged with rain; the houses were so constructed as to exclude the rain -and the cold; the clothing of the inhabitants was calculated to answer -the same end, and all indicated a change like that from summer to -winter; but the transition was so sudden, although expected, that in the -morning, when I went into the corridor of the house where I had slept, I -could not help looking on all around me with a certain degree of -surprize. This village is composed of a long street, a plasa, and a -church; some of the houses have a neat comfortable appearance, but the -inhabitants are said to be somewhat akin to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> Conchucanos. After -taking mate, with some bread and cheese, we left Contumasá, and arrived -in the evening at a hamlet called la Magdalena, situate in the bottom of -a deep valley; the climate is very hot, and is considered unhealthy; -small patches of sugar-cane, yucas, camotes, and some of the fruits of -the coast, are here cultivated. At a small distance from the hamlet -there are some abandoned gold mines, called <i>de los Portugueses</i>: it is -said that they were formerly wrought by some natives of Portugal, and -belonged to the unfortunate Juan Bautista, a Portuguese Jew, who was -burnt by the inquisition of Lima in 1705.</p> - -<p>We changed mules at la Magdalena, and immediately began to ascend the -cuesta by a winding road, some parts of which are very steep; having -gained the summit, and travelled about three leagues across the top of -the mountain, covered with long dry grass, <i>pajon</i>, we reached the -cumbe, an eminence from which the valley and city of Caxamarca form a -most beautiful prospect.</p> - -<p>The valley of Caxamarca is about five leagues long, and three broad in -its widest part, forming an irregular oval. Many white country houses -present themselves, and numberless ranches of the indians; the whole -plain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> is intersected with green hedges, which divide it into several -hundreds of small plots of ground, all apparently in the highest state -of cultivation, at least all bearing most luxurious crops: the river -winds along the valley from one extremity to the other, bursting as it -were from the embraces of the hills at one end; after gambolling along -the valley, distributing health and vigour to the vegetable tribes, it -again sinks into the arms of the mountains at the other. The city -presents a most delightful prospect in the foreground at the foot of the -cumbe; the spacious streets, intersecting each other at right angles, -the large plasa mayor in the centre of the city, the spires and domes of -the churches, and the neatly tiled houses, all contribute to enhance the -beauty of the view; while at a short distance from the city, in the back -part, vapours are continually rising from the hot baths. Not only is the -sight of Caxamarca very interesting, but feelings of sympathy swell the -bosom of the stranger who looks on it;—it brings to his recollection -the unmerited sufferings and death of the Inca Atahualpa, who here fell -a sacrifice to the unparalleled treachery and detestable cruelty of the -Spanish conqueror, Pizarro.</p> - -<p>After a rather tedious descent, we arrived<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> at the city, and as I -determined to remain here for some time, for the purpose of visiting -whatever might appear to me interesting, I took apartments in a private -house, where I remained during my stay in this part of America, and -where I soon became like one of the family—enjoying every kindness my -good host could lavish on me, for all which he would only accept a -trifling recompense.</p> - -<p>The name of this city is derived from <i>cassacmalca</i>, place of frost; -however, the climate is very benign, the maximum of the thermometer -during my stay being 72° of Fahrenheit, and the minimum 40°; but it more -probably obtained its name from the blights occasioned by the frosty -winds from the east, which are very injurious to vegetation.</p> - -<p>Here is a parish church, called <i>la Matris</i>, belonging to the white -inhabitants, dedicated to Santa Catalina; it is a handsome edifice of -stone, neatly wrought; the front is very much ornamented with carved -work, in good sand stone; it has three doors opening into the three -naves of the church. The interior is neat, but not rich; the whole -expence of the building was defrayed by an order of Charles II. from the -royal treasury, during the Viceroyalty of the Duque de la Palata. The -two parishes of indians<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> are San Jose and San Pedro: to the former in -1810 was given the beautiful conventual church of San Antonio, which -formerly belonged to the Franciscans. Here are the conventual churches -of San Diego and la Merced; the nunnery of la Concepcion, and a hospital -belonging to the Bethlemites. The church of San Antonio is a fine -structure, approaching to the chaste gothic style; the two rows of -pillars in the interior that support the roof, which is composed of some -light groined arches, are slender, and the whole effect is very -pleasing; it has much the appearance of a small cathedral, unencumbered -with the central choir; the whole building is of white stone, dug from a -quarry near to the city. The church and convent of San Diego are -remarkably neat stone buildings; the cloisters, cells, kitchens, and -other offices are arched with stone; and the extensive gardens belonging -to them are enclosed with walls of the same wrought material. It belongs -to the grey friars of San Francisco, but seldom more than two or three -reside here. It once happened, that there were no other residents than -the guardian, or prelate, and a lay brother, who was an Andalusian; the -former thought proper to threaten the latter with corporal punishment; -when he immediately replied to his superior, that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> if he did not -moderate his anger, he would deprive him of his superiority. But how? -exclaimed the enraged prelate: by hanging my habit on a peg, and leaving -your fathership without an inferior, replied the <i>donado</i>.</p> - -<p>The church belonging to the nunnery <i>de la Concepcion</i> is a handsome new -structure; at the time of my present visit to Caxamarca it was not -finished, but when I returned in 1812 it had been consecrated, and -divine service was then performed in it. The church belonging to the -hospital is built of carved stone, and a profusion of workmanship -ornaments the front of the building. Here are two wards, or rather two -hospitals; that for men is within the cloisters of the convent, and that -for women is a separate stone building, divided from the convent by a -street. The surgeon is paid from the indian tribute, and few but indians -go to the hospital.</p> - -<p>The population of this city is composed of white people and indians, a -small number of negroes, and the mixed breeds; the excess is in favour -of the indians and mestisos, called here quinteros; the total amount is -about seven thousand. Here are some descendants of Spanish nobility, -particularly the family of Bonifas, who are the lineal descendants of -the family of Ximenes, to which the Cardinal Ximenes, Regent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> of Spain -to the Emperor Charles V. belonged, and who are in possession of many -interesting papers, which were the property of that celebrated -statesman. Among the Indians is the family of the Cacique Astopilco; -they claim a lineal descent from the Inca Atahualpa, and inhabit part of -the palace which was formerly occupied by the imperial family, the place -where Atahualpa was murdered. The generality of the inhabitants are -industrious, and their workmanship in silver and iron is deserving of -much praise. I have seen many very handsome sword blades and daggers -made here, pocket steels, and bridle bits most curiously wrought, beside -several well finished pistol and gun locks; on this account the -Caxamarquinos are often called the Biscayans of South America. -Literature would prosper here were it properly cultivated; the natives -are fond of instruction, and scholars are not rare; many of the richer -inhabitants send their children to Truxillo and Lima to be educated. -Kindness, hospitality, and innocent amusements, characterize the -citizens of Caxamarca, and some of the most agreeable hours of my life -have been spent in this town.</p> - -<p>I cannot avoid giving the description of a visit to a most eccentric -character, a native of this place, who resided at a sugar plantation,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> -of which he was proprietor, about nine leagues from Caxamarca. I had -often been pressed by my friend to visit San Pablo; and having appointed -the day, two mules arrived the preceding evening, one for myself and one -for a nephew to my host, Don Mariano Alvites. On the following morning, -at five o'clock, we mounted, with two black men as an escort, carrying -their long lances, as if any danger could be apprehended on the road. -Having arrived at the top of a mountain, which we were obliged to cross, -it began to rain, and our descent on the opposite side was attended with -considerable danger; however we arrived safely at the bottom; our mules -had often to bring their hind feet close to their fore feet, and then -resting on their haunches they would slide down a distance of from -twenty to forty yards at a time. We halted a few minutes at the bottom, -when one of the negroes pointing to a small house about two miles off, -said, my <i>amo</i>, master or owner, waits your arrival at that house which -stands on the border of his estate, where he intends to welcome you on -your arrival, and where a breakfast is prepared. We walked our mules -leisurely along, and shortly heard the report of a camareta; this is a -small mortar, having a two or three inch bore, and about eight inches -deep,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> at the bottom of which is a touch hole; it has a handle, and -looks very much like a large tankard; it is loaded with powder, and then -filled with dry clay, which is beat very hard with a mallet; it is then -placed on its end with the mouth upwards, and a train is laid to it; -when fired the report is equal to that of an eight pounder.</p> - -<p>Such a report a little surprised me, and the sound, which re-echoed from -the mountains on every side, had a very pleasing effect. Alvites now -said to me, my uncle is in a good humour, prepare yourself to be more -teased with his peculiarities than what we now are with the rain. About -a mile from the small house we could see our friend Don Manuel de -Verastegui, y Oliva, advancing slowly and majestically, like a Lord -Mayor's procession, to meet us: had Cervantes witnessed this sight, -there is no doubt but he would have taken him for the knight of his -enchanting romance.</p> - -<p>At the distance of eight or ten yards our friend alighted from his -dappled charger, and approached to salute us; we remained on our mules, -enjoying his profound bow, hat in hand, and "a more unpleasant morning," -said he, "never brought to San Pablo, the humble residence of Don Manuel -de Verastegui, two more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> welcome visitors than those whom I have now the -honour to address; allow me to say, you are indeed welcome;" when, -without waiting a reply, he remounted his steed, and we trotted along to -his rancho. This kind old gentleman was dressed in a coat, waistcoat and -breeches of blue velveteen; the coat being lined with Catalonian chintz, -full of large red flowers on a white ground; the huge buttons on his -coat and waistcoat were of silver; he had on a pair of high military -boots, and had a small triangular cocked hat on his head; his hair was -curled on the sides, and tied behind in a long cue, <i>a lo militar de -Carlos III.</i>; a silver-hilted trusty toledano was girt to his side by a -broad black belt, which passed round his waist; he appeared to be about -sixty, and in stature he might be six feet; he was also remarkably -slender and very upright. His saddle trappings were of crimson cloth, -ornamented with silver lace and fringe. Two blacks accompanied him on -horseback, the one held a huge crimson umbrella over his head, while the -other rode before him with his lance, <i>hasta de rejon</i>: they were both -in old liveries, and wore cocked hats with yellow worsted lace, but were -bare-legged. On our arrival at the lodge, if so I may call it, we were -saluted with another camareta, and shortly after we rode<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> under the -corridor and alighted. Several negro boys immediately took our ponchos -and hats to the kitchen to dry, and we entered and sat down to a very -sumptuous breakfast; a roasted kid hot, boiled turkey cold, collared -pig, ham and tongue, with butter, cheese and olives, besides which, wine -and brandy, <i>pisco</i>, and several <i>liquers</i> were on the table; tea, -coffee, and chocolate, were afterwards brought in, and a cup of each was -placed before every one of us.</p> - -<p>After breakfast we again mounted, and the rain having ceased, our ride -to the farm-house was very agreeable. On our arrival, the lady of the -house came into the corridor to receive us, with her two daughters. Doña -Casimira and Doña Rosaria, each upwards of thirty years old: we -alighted, and after the first ceremonious salutations were over, we -retired to two rooms prepared for us, and changed part of our dress, -having taken the precaution of bringing linen with us from Caxamarca. -When we returned to the drawing-room, our host had changed his dress -also: he now wore a very old-fashioned green velvet full-dress, almost -covered with embroidery and spangles. Doña Casimira sat down to a -harpsichord, and played several pretty airs, and her sister afterwards -sung some <i>tristes</i> to her guitar. As the ground was wet.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> Don Manuel -proposed a dance before dinner and a walk afterwards; this was assented -to, and I danced a minuet with Doña Rosaria; Alvites excused himself; -but our host and hostess walked a minuet, to my no small diversion.</p> - -<p>We had a very sumptuous dinner, walked out during the afternoon, and in -the evening were joined by a party of about twenty persons; after which -we continued dancing, singing, and feasting till daylight, when my -companion and I returned to Caxamarca, Don Manuel accompanying us to the -lodge, where he most ceremoniously thanked us for favouring him with our -company, and then wished us a pleasant ride.</p> - -<p>The market of Caxamarca is well supplied with flesh meat, poultry, -bread, grain, vegetables, fruit, and every necessary, all of which are -cheap: cheese and butter are plentiful; of the latter a fresh supply is -brought from the country every day. Some very fine fruits are also -obtained from the valleys, such as paltas, the vegetable marrow, -chirimoyas, and pine-apples, particularly from that part called <i>de las -Balsas</i>, where the road to Chachapoyas crosses the Marañon.</p> - -<p>This city carries on a considerable trade with Lambayeque and other -places on the coast, furnishing them with the different home -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>manufactured articles; such as baizes, bayetones, <i>pañetes</i>, a kind of -coarse cloth, blankets, flannels, tocuyos, &c., and receiving in return -European manufactures, soap, sugar, cocoa, brandy, wine, indigo, <i>hierba -de Paraguay</i>, salted fish, iron, steel, &c. The inhabitants of the -interior resort to Caxamarca as a kind of mart, for the purpose of -selling their own produce and manufactures, and for purchasing others -which they may require; hence, a considerable trade is carried on, and -some of the shops are well stored with European goods, similar to those -which I mentioned when speaking of Huaras. Articles of a superior -quality are in demand here, for the poorer classes wear their own -manufactures; but the richer dress in European goods of the best -quality.</p> - -<p>At the distance of a league from Caxamarca are the baths of the Inca: -two comfortable dwelling houses are built of stone on the two sides of a -large patio, each having an extensive bath: that on the right hand is -five yards square, and two deep. The sides and bottom are formed of -roughly hewn stone, having steps at two of the corners, leading down -from two doors, which open to different parts of the house; and others -in the centre of the opposite side, communicating by a door with a large -room. On the left is another<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> bath, smaller than this; it is called <i>de -los pobres</i>, and it has convenient rooms also attached to it. At the -entrance to the patio is a corridor to the right and left, which serves -as a stable; and in the front there are two kitchens, and a passage that -leads through the building. It was at these baths that the unfortunate -Atahualpa resided when Pizarro arrived at Caxamarca.</p> - -<p>The spring of hot water, called <i>el tragadero</i>, is at the back of the -building, and is at the distance of two hundred and thirty yards from -it; it is circular, of five yards in diameter; I sounded it with fifty -yards of rope, but found no bottom; the land all round it to the -distance of more than a mile is almost level, declining a very little -towards the river, which runs at the distance of four hundred yards from -the tragadero. The water appears to boil, but having only one -thermometer with me, and being fearful of damaging it where its place -could not easily be supplied with another, I did not measure its heat. -The natives scald their pigs here when they kill them, and as I have -observed that boiling water rather fastens the bristles on the skin, I -concluded that the heat of the water is below the temperature at which -it generally boils when heated in the ordinary way. I filled two tin -coffee pots, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> one with water from the tragadero, the other with -water from a cold spring; I placed them together on the same fire, and -observed that the cold and the hot water began to boil precisely at the -same time. I placed an egg in the tragadero, secured in a small net, and -allowed it to remain eight minutes; it was then quite hard and the yolk -dry. I allowed another to remain three minutes, which when broken was -soft; I placed another in the hot water, allowed it to remain three -minutes, and put it immediately into boiling water on a fire with a cold -raw egg; after boiling five minutes they were both equally hard, and -when cut no difference could be observed except in the taste;—the one -which had been placed in the tragadero had a slight clayey taste, -somewhat similar to that of water which has passed over a bed of clay.</p> - -<p>The water of the tragadero empties itself into a channel three feet -wide, and on an average six inches deep, which from several experiments -I observed to run at the rate of three feet in a second. By this -experiment it appears, that about thirty hogsheads of water are -discharged in a minute. Along the sides of the channel the grass and -other vegetables, particularly the ichu, grow to the very margin of the -stream;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> and the fields of lucern which are irrigated with this water, -at the distance of five hundred yards from the tragadero, are the finest -in the valley. The fruit trees also that grow in the gardens belonging -to the baths, apples, pears and peaches, are never subject to the blight -from the frosty air so common in the neighbourhood; being apparently -protected by the steam which continually rises from the hot water. The -principal stream contains many small fishes of a black colour, very much -in shape like small shrimps; if these be put into cold water they -immediately die. They appear to be continually swimming up the stream, -as if to avoid being carried by it to the confluence of the cold stream -from the Santa Rosa springs with that of the tragadero, where they would -most certainly perish.</p> - -<p>The water which flows from the spring called de Santa Rosa, which is -only seventy-two yards from the tragadero, is always at 41° of -Fahrenheit at the mouth of the spring, where it bursts from a rock. The -baths are supplied with water of any temperature, by mixing the hot from -the tragadero with the cold from Santa Rosa; and as there is an outlet -at the bottom as well as at the top of each bath, a constant supply of -fresh water is maintained.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Historical Sketch of Caxamarca, Huaina Capac, Huascar Inca, and -Atahualpa....Arrival of Pizarro at Tumpis....At -Caxamarca....Spanish Embassy....Harangue of Soto....Answer of -Atahualpa....Visit of Atahualpa to Pizarro....Discourse of Friar -Vicente Valverde, to Atahualpa....Answer of -Atahualpa....Imprisonment of....Offered Ransom of....Cause of the -Jealousy of Pizarro....Arrivals of Treasure....Accusation, for the -Trial of Atahualpa....Sentence, Baptism, Execution, and Burial -of....Interesting Remains in Caxamarca.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Caxamarca is a place interesting in the history of Peru; it was here -that the Inca Atahualpa resided when Pizarro landed at Tumpis, now -Tumbes, in the mouth of the Guayaquil river. The residence of Atahualpa -at this place was accidental, as will appear from the following -historical sketch, which I have endeavoured to make as correct as -possible, with the assistance of the works of Garcilaso, Gomara, Zarate, -and others; collated with the oral traditions of the indians of this -province, and particularly the Cacique Astopilco, as well as those of -Quito.</p> - -<p>Huaina Capac having conquered the kingdom of Quito, married -Paccha-chire, daughter of the Quitu, or King of that country; she bore<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> -him a son, who was named Atahualpa, whom some writers have erroneously -called Atabalipa, Atalipa, and Atalpa. His eldest son, by his wife, the -Empress Rava Ocllo, born at Cusco, was called Inte Guri Hualpa; but on -the day of the Apu-ñaca, he was named Huascar, under which name he is -always known as Inca of Peru. Huaina Capac died at Quito, and left to -Atahualpa all that territory which had formerly belonged to the Quitu; -and to Huascar the remaining part of the empire, on condition that -Atahualpa should do homage to his brother Huascar, as legitimate -descendant of the Sun.</p> - -<p>The disappointment of Huascar at finding a brother whom he had -considered a bastard thus elevated, made him determine on his -destruction; but he first procured a delay which might allow him to -assemble his troops, and at the same time to probe the intention of -Atahualpa. He therefore sent a messenger to inform him, that by the will -of their father, he and his kingdom were tributary to the Inca of Cusco; -and that, as he intended, so soon as the great feast held on the day on -which the sun passed the zenith of Cusco was over, to extend his -conquests to the southward, he required a certain number of armed men -from Quito, as a tributary quota. Atahualpa perceived the drift of the -subterfuge,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> and determined to avail himself of this opportunity to -forward his own views, and to acquire to himself the sole sovereignty, -which he perceived was the aim of his brother. He sent a considerable -force, with orders not to enter Cusco, but to remain in the -neighbourhood, and to conduct themselves as men sent to assist Huascar -in his future conquests; but on the day of the great festival, to enter -the city, and when all were employed in the religious rites of the day, -to possess themselves of the Inca, and to bring him as his prisoner. -Atahualpa, with another army, proceeded to Caxamarca, to await the -result of the expedition sent to Cusco; they succeeded in taking -Huascar; and the imperial insignia, a red tassel, which the Inca always -wore on solemn occasions, hanging on his forehead, was sent to -Atahualpa, who was now considered as Inca of Peru.</p> - -<p>At this time the Spaniards had landed in Peru, at Tumbes, and after -possessing themselves, not without great opposition on the part of the -natives, of that place, Pizarro began his march towards the south. -Atahualpa was at Caxamarca, and his brother Huascar prisoner at -Andamarca, about forty leagues from Pachacamac. Atahualpa immediately -sent his brother Titu Atanchi as his ambassador to Pizarro, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> most -magnificent presents, including two golden bracelets worn only by the -Incas, to welcome the arrival of the Viracochas, to solicit their -protection, and to invite them to visit him at Caxamarca. Huascar at the -same time, although a prisoner, found means to send his ambassadors to -Pizarro, informing him of the situation in which he was placed by -Atahualpa, and craving his protection.</p> - -<p>Pizarro now found himself the arbiter of the fate of two monarchs, both -soliciting his friendship and protection, and each alleging his own -right to the empire of Peru; but Pizarro determined that it should not -belong to either of them, and the only thing that engrossed his -attention was the safest and easiest means of possessing himself of the -treasures of both. He therefore determined to go first to Caxamarca, -judging that the reigning Inca would be in possession of the greater -wealth, and Hernando Pizarro was afterwards sent to Pachacamac.</p> - -<p>Francisco Pizarro pushed forward to Caxamarca, where he arrived with a -hundred and sixty soldiers. At this time Atahualpa was at the baths, and -Pizarro sent to him as his ambassadors his brother Hernando Pizarro and -Hernando de Soto, and as interpreter an indian<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> named Felipe, a native -of the Puná island, in the Guayaquil river; these were accompanied by -two hundred noble indians, appointed by the Curaca of Caxamarca to -attend on them; Atahualpa being informed of the approach of the two -Spaniards, ordered one of his generals to form his troops and do them -the honors due to the children of the Sun. On their arrival at the -palace they were immediately presented to Atahualpa, who embraced them, -and said, "welcome, great Viracochas, to these my regions!" and having -two seats covered with gold brought in, he ordered them to sit down. -Atahualpa then, speaking to his courtiers, said, "behold the -countenance, the figure, and the dress of our god, the same which -appeared to my antecessor Inca Viracocha, and whose arrival was also -predicted by my father, Huaina Capac." A species of wine was brought, -and the Inca taking one of the golden goblets, the other was given to -Herando Pizarro, to whom the Inca bowed, and drank a small quantity, -giving the goblet to his brother Titu Atanchi, who drank the remainder; -two more were then brought, and the Inca taking one, sent the other to -Soto, to whom he bowed, and drank a little of the beverage, and gave the -goblet to his other brother, Choquehuaman. Different kinds of fruit<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> -were then presented to the ambassadors, of which they partook with -Atahualpa.</p> - -<p>Hernando de Soto rose, bowed to Atahualpa, resumed his seat, and -delivered his embassy, stating, that "in this world there were two most -potent princes, the one was the high Pontiff of Rome, Vicar-general to, -and representative of God on earth, who governed his church and taught -his divine law. The other was Charles V. Emperor of the Romans and King -of Spain. These two monarchs," said Soto, "being informed of the blind -idolatry of your highness and all your subjects, have sent our Governor -and Captain-general Don Francisco Pizarro, his companions, and some -priests, the ministers of God, to teach your highness and your vassals -the divine truths of our holy religion, and to establish with your -highness everlasting relationship, concord and peace."</p> - -<p>To this harangue, interpreted by Felipe, the Inca answered to the -following effect:—"Divine men, I am most heartily glad that you and -your companions have arrived at these regions during the days of my -life, for your arrival has fulfilled the vaticination of my forefathers, -but my soul is sorrowful, because others must also be now fulfilled; -notwithstanding, Viracochas, I welcome ye as the missioners of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> our God, -and hope that the changes prophesied by my father, Huaina Capac, and now -about to take place, will lead to the good of myself and my people; it -was on this account that neither I nor my captains have opposed your -progress, as the natives of Puná and Tumpis did, because we believe you -to be the children of our great God Viracocha, and messengers of the -eternal all-creating Pachacamac—in obedience to our laws, and to the -orders and injunctions of my father, we have received ye, and will serve -and worship ye; but have pity on me and on my people, whose affliction -or death would be more distressing to me than my own."</p> - -<p>Pizarro and Soto begged leave to retire to their own camp at Caxamarca, -and Atahualpa embraced them, and said, that he should soon follow them, -to enjoy the company of the children of his God, Viracocha, the -messengers of the great Pachacamac. When the two Spaniards had mounted -their horses, presents of gold were carried to them by several noble -indians, who begged of their divinities to receive those humble marks of -their respect and adoration. Pizarro and Soto then repaired to Caxamarca -with their rich presents, astonished at the enormous quantities of gold -which they had seen at the palace of Atahualpa.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p><p>On the following day, Pizarro placed his cavalry, composed of sixty -men, on each side of the square of Caxamarca, behind some high walls: in -the centre of the square he had built a small breastwork, behind which -he placed his two field-pieces, and behind these he stationed his -infantry, a hundred men, and thus awaited the arrival of the Inca.</p> - -<p>Atahualpa made his appearance on a throne of gold, carried on the -shoulders of his courtiers and favourites, with a guard of eight -thousand of his soldiers in front, eight thousand on each side, and -eight thousand more in the rear, besides an immense number of nobles and -attendants. The troops were commanded by Rumiñavi, who advanced in -front, and acted as herald. Friar Vicente Valverde stepped forward a -short distance in front of the Spanish infantry, holding a cross of palm -leaves in his right hand, and waited the arrival of Atahualpa, who was -surprized to see a figure so different from the strangers whom he had -seen the preceding day; and being informed by Felipe, the interpreter, -that Valverde was the captain of words, and the guide to the supreme -Pachacamac, and his messenger, Atahualpa approached, when Valverde began -his most extraordinary harangue,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> requesting Felipe to translate it to -the Inca as he proceeded to deliver it.</p> - -<p>"Know, most famous and most powerful Inca, that it is necessary and -requisite that thou and thine be taught the true Catholic faith, and -that ye now hear and believe what follows.</p> - -<p>"First, that God, trinity in unity, created the heavens and the earth, -and all things in and on them; that he will reward the good with life -everlasting, and the bad with interminable punishment. This God created -man out of the dust of this earth, and gave him a soul, which is the -likeness of God himself; so that every man has a body and a soul.</p> - -<p>"The first man was called Adam, whose children we all are. This Adam -sinned against the commandment of his Creator, and in him all men that -have been born, and that shall be born, sinned also; excepting Jesus -Christ, who is the Son of God, and the Virgin Mary, who came to redeem -us from the bondage of sin, and at last died on a cross that we might -live. The cross was like unto this which I hold in my hand and show to -thee, that thou with all Christians may adore and reverence it.</p> - -<p>"Jesus Christ rose from the dead, and after living again on earth the -space of forty days, he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> went up into heaven, and sat himself down on -the right hand of his Father; he left on earth his Apostles, who left -their successors to teach the true religion, and guide all men to -heaven.</p> - -<p>"Saint Peter was appointed the prince of the Apostles and the vicar of -Christ, and after him his successors the Pontiffs of Rome, whom the -Christians call Popes, who have the authority of Christ on earth, and -who always have and do preach to, and teach all men the word of God.</p> - -<p>"Whereas the Pope who is now living on this earth, knowing that the -people of these countries did not serve the true God, but worshipped -idols and the likenesses of the devil, hath determined to bring them to -the true knowledge of religion, and he hath given the conquest of these -countries to Charles V. Emperor of the Romans, the most powerful King of -Spain, and Monarch of all the earth, to the end that he, having -subjected to himself all these people, their kings and lords, and -destroyed all rebels, may reign and govern all these nations alone, and -bring them to the knowledge of God and to obey his church. Our most -powerful King, although employed in the government of his great kingdoms -and provinces, accepted the gift of the Pope, for the sake of the health -of these people, and has sent his captains and soldiers to execute his -will, as they have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> done in former times, in the conquest of the great -islands and countries of Mexico, having overcome them with his powerful -arms, and brought them to the true religion of Jesus Christ, which he -was ordered by God to oblige them to embrace.</p> - -<p>"Wherefore the great Emperor Charles V. appointed as his lieutenant and -ambassador Don Francisco Pizarro, who is here present, that these the -kingdoms of your highness may receive the like benefits; as also to form -a perpetual confederation, alliance, and friendship, between his majesty -and your highness, in such manner, that your highness and your kingdoms -may become tributary to him, that is, by paying tribute ye may become -his subjects; also that you may surrender to him every part of your -territory, and renounce the administration and government of it, in the -same manner as other kings and lords have done. This is the first -condition: the second is, that peace and friendship being established, -and you subjected either by will or by force, shall truly obey the Pope, -and receive and believe the faith of our God, Jesus Christ, and despise -and totally abjure the abominable superstition of your idols; you will -then soon observe how holy our religion is, and how false your own, -which was invented by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> devil. All this, oh King! if you believe, you -must freely surrender yourself, because, to you and yours, it is of -great importance; and if you object to it, know that you will be -persecuted with a war of destruction: all your idols shall be thrown -down upon the ground, and we will force you with the sword to abandon -your false religion, whether ye will or not; and you <i>shall</i> receive our -Catholic faith, and you <i>shall</i> pay tribute to our king. Should you -obstinately resist this, believe me, that God will permit, as he -formerly did when Pharaoh and his host perished in the Red Sea, that you -and all your indians perish by the edge of our swords."</p> - -<p>Felipe, the interpreter of this discourse, was a native of the Puná, -where the Quichua language generally spoken in Peru was not understood; -and what little he knew of it he had learnt of some Peruvians, who at -different times had visited his native island. The Spanish that he spoke -he had acquired during the time he had lived among the soldiers whom he -served; thus it cannot be expected that he gave to Atahualpa a faithful -translation of this absurd harangue, equally filled with -incomprehensible matter, furious bombast, and unjust threats; indeed -many mistakes are recorded, such as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> one God, trinity in unity, which he -translated one God, and three, four Gods; that God made dust of man on -the earth, which they could not possibly understand; and many other like -passages were rendered equally ridiculous. The impossibility of -translating the words trinity, unity, Jesus Christ, Virgin Mary, Roman -Pontiff, Emperor of the Romans, &c. is quite obvious, for they could -bear no translation at all, and a description of their meaning was as -much above the powers of Felipe, and perhaps of Valverde himself to -explain, as the comprehension of Atahualpa to understand, who now for -the first time heard that such things did exist.</p> - -<p>When Atahualpa had heard the conclusion of this rodomontade fulminated -by Father Valverde, he sighed, and said, "ah! atay"—ah! how hard; and -after a short pause, he addressed himself thus to Valverde: "I should -feel happy, although every other request were denied me, if one were but -granted: procure a better interpreter, that I may be enabled to -understand what you have said; and that you may be better informed of -what I wish to say. I make this request, because I am certain that this -meeting ought to produce other things than what this fellow has repeated -to me. From what I have heard, it appears that you have come to destroy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> -the race of the Incas, and put to the sword all the indians who do not -understand you. If you are the ministers of vengeance of Pachacamac, and -come to destroy me and mine, fulfil his orders—none of us fear death, -and the vaticination of my father brings us to meet you unarmed.</p> - -<p>"Your interpreter has informed me of five great men, whom I wish to -know, God, trinity in unity, four gods; Adam, on whom all men threw -their sins; Jesus Christ, the only man that did not assist in loading -Adam; Pope, Roman Pontiff; and Carlos Quinto, King of all the world; but -he tells me, that I am to give my country and my people, and pay tribute -to Carlos, and not to any of the other four. I am also told, that I must -abjure my religion, and believe in Jesus Christ, who died. If this be -true, I cannot forget the great Pachacamac, who made our God, the sun, -immortal, unless I learn who has told you what I have heard from your -interpreter."</p> - -<p>This answer was translated by Felipe in short sentences, as Atahualpa -spoke them; who perceiving the ignorance of Felipe, endeavoured by this -method to prevent a misconstruction of his words. On hearing the last -question, Valverde gave his breviary to Atahualpa, and told<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> him through -Felipe, that that book informed him of all that he wanted to know -respecting the true God. The Inca folded over the leaves, examined the -book, placed it against his ear and listened, then said, "it is false, -it cannot and does not speak," when he let it fall. At this, Valverde -cried out, "to arms, Christians! these infidel dogs have insulted the -minister of your Redeemer, the word of God is thrown under -foot—revenge! revenge!"</p> - -<p>The soldiers immediately rushed on their unsuspecting victims; Pizarro -flew to Atahualpa, well aware that the preservation of his life was of -the utmost importance; but upwards of twenty thousand indians fell, -before the fury of the Spanish soldiery could be restrained, or their -more than barbarous thirst for blood was glutted. During this scene of -horror, the afflicted Atahualpa exhorted his people to resign themselves -to the will of Pachacamac, which he himself was willing to do, and not -to lift up their hands against the Viracochas; thus, he exclaimed, will -the vaticination of my forefathers be fulfilled.</p> - -<p>What a contrast! a minister of the meek, the blessed Jesus, the Saviour -of the Gentiles, calling on an unfeeling soldiery to satiate their -blood-thirsty cruelty in murdering those very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> people whom his divine -master said that he came to redeem! while a king and a father beholds -the carnage of his people, and his children, and bows his head to the -believed decree of his God, and the prophecy of his forefathers! Here -the Christian calls aloud, "crucify him! crucify him!" while the pious -Gentile seems to say, "forgive them, Father, for they know not what they -do."</p> - -<p>Pizarro and a soldier, called Miguel Astete, arrived at the same moment -close to the throne of Atahualpa, when Pizarro caught hold of the robes -of the Inca, and dragged him to the ground; Astete plucked the red -tassel from his forehead, and kept it till the year 1557, when he -delivered it to the Inca Sayritupac. After the slaughter, the Spanish -soldiers proceeded to plunder, and while Pizarro was attentive to secure -the Inca, part of his troops proceeded to the baths, where Atahualpa -resided, and possessed themselves of all the gold and silver which they -could find: the weight of gold taken at the baths, and accounted for, -amounted to fifteen thousand ounces.</p> - -<p>Atahualpa was directly removed to a room in his own palace at Caxamarca, -and loaded with irons. Pizarro immediately sent his brother Hernando to -visit Huascar in his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> prison, and to endeavour to secure the treasure -that he might be possessed of; but whether the indians belonging to -Atahualpa, who had heard of the situation of their Inca, suspected that -Pizarro intended to put Atahualpa to death, and place Huascar on the -throne; or whether Hernando Pizarro endeavoured to deprive the guard of -their prisoner, is uncertain; but some misunderstanding having taken -place, an indian struck Huascar with his axe, of which wound he -immediately died.</p> - -<p>Atahualpa having observed that the Spaniards were more covetous of gold -than of any thing which his kingdom produced, proposed to Pizarro a -ransom for himself; standing on his feet, he raised his hand, and -placing it on the wall, he said, "to this mark will I fill this room -with vessels of gold, if you will free me from these chains and from -this prison." To this Pizarro agreed, and messengers were sent to Quito, -Cusco, and different parts of the country, for the purpose of collecting -the gold and sending it to Caxamarca. Some of the Spanish officers went -with the messengers of Atahualpa, and when they returned they described -the number of indians which the country contained, and the universal -obedience to the Inca in such terms, that they fancied a general<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> rising -would take place, and instead of gold, they would bring their arms and -put all the Spaniards to death; that Atahualpa had deceived them, and -was a traitor, and as such ought to be punished. Pizarro opposed this -for some time, till an accident occurred which touched his pride, and -made Atahualpa personally odious to him. Some of the Spanish officers -had written the word God on the hand of the Inca, and when he shewed it -to any one, the person would point upwards; at length he shewed it to -Pizarro, who could neither read nor write, and was therefore unable to -make any sign of the meaning of the word. Atahualpa was surprised, and -Pizarro was abashed; his feelings were wounded, and he began to hate the -man who had discovered him to be more ignorant than his inferiors. -Atahualpa began to forebode his doom, and became dejected; his own -servants were not permitted to wait on him; their places were supplied -with indians who had attached themselves to the Spanish camp; some of -whom were unacquainted with the Quichua language, had never been the -vassals of Atahualpa, and all of them were inclined to insult him.</p> - -<p>The indians began to arrive from different parts, bringing with them the -gold which they had been assured would ransom their captive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> monarch; -but that which by them was destined to save his life was changed by his -cruel masters into the cause of his death. From the number of indians -who arrived daily, the Spaniards began to fear a revolution in favour of -their prisoner: they had already received an enormous quantity of gold; -Huascar was dead, and Pizarro presumed, that by securing to himself the -possession of the country, he should consequently become master of the -treasures which it contained. He therefore determined to bring Atahualpa -to trial; for which purpose, he constituted himself president of the -court, and nominated the other members. The following is a copy of the -charges exhibited against the unfortunate Atahualpa, on the baseness of -which all comment is unnecessary—the mere reading must draw from every -sympathizing heart detestation of the inhuman proposer and promoter.</p> - -<p>That Huaina Capac having had several wives, and Huascar Inca, being the -first-born of his Empress Rava Ocllo, was the legitimate heir to the -empire, and Atahualpa not the son of Huaina Capac, but the bastard of -some indian of Quito. That Atahualpa did not inherit the empire -according to the will of his father, but was an usurper and a tyrant; -and that Huascar was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> the lawful Inca, according to the will of his -father and the right of inheritance. That Huascar had been murdered by -order of Atahualpa, after the arrival of the Spaniards. That Atahualpa -was an idolater, and obliged his vassals to sacrifice human beings to -his idols. That Atahualpa had waged unjust wars, and thereby murdered -many indians. That Atahualpa had kept many concubines. That Atahualpa -had recovered, spent, and lavished in excesses the tributes of the -empire, after the Spaniards had taken possession of it, giving to his -relations and friends treasure belonging to the public funds. That -Atahualpa had, during his imprisonment, advised his captains and indians -to rebel against the Spaniards, and put them to death, for which purpose -he had mustered a considerable force of armed indians.</p> - -<p>After this shameful libel had been read to the court by Sancho de -Cuellar, Pizarro stated, that all those who should now attempt to defend -the life of Atahualpa were traitors to the crown of Castile and to the -Emperor, their master, and might be justly accused of opposing the -increase of his kingdom and revenue. That the death of the tyrant -Atahualpa would secure to Castile an empire, and to all present their -lives and fortunes. That if any one opposed his death,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> it should be -reported to his Majesty, that he might reward his faithful servants, and -punish those who endeavoured to deprive him of his right. After this -diabolical harangue, it is almost unnecessary to say, that the -unfortunate Atahualpa was sentenced to death.</p> - -<p>Atahualpa was immediately informed of his fate, and told, that if he -were baptized, he would be put to an honourable death, such as was -inflicted on noblemen in all civilized countries; but if he refused to -receive this sacrament, he would be burnt to death: hearing this, he -desired Friar Vicente Valverde to baptize him: the friar complied with -the request, and called him Juan Atahualpa. He was then led out to the -place of execution, in front of his own palace, where he was tied to a -pole, and strangled; and his body received Christian burial on the spot -where he was murdered, notwithstanding his last request—that he might -be carried to Quito, and buried in the tomb of his forefathers.</p> - -<p>Pizarro attended the execution of his prisoner, afterwards wore mourning -for him, and ordered his exequies to be performed with all possible -pomp. It may perhaps be satisfactory to some of my readers to mention -here, that Pizarro was afterwards murdered by his own<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> countrymen at -Lima; and Father Valverde, by the Indians of Quispicancha. According to -Zarate, the treasure which had been brought for the ransom of Atahualpa, -and which fell into the hands of Pizarro, amounted to four hundred and -ninety-eight thousand ounces of fine silver, and one million five -hundred and ninety-one ounces of gold.</p> - -<p>The places in Caxamarca worthy the notice of a visitor, as having been -connected with the fate of Atahualpa, are a large room, part of the old -palace, and now the residence of the Cacique Astopilco, where this -ill-fated monarch was kept a prisoner for the space of three months, or -from the first day of his meeting Pizarro to the day on which he was -murdered by order of that general; in this room also is the mark which -he made on the wall, promising to fill it to that height with silver and -gold as a ransom. In the chapel belonging to the common gaol, which was -formerly part of the palace, the altar stands on the stone on which -Atahualpa was placed by the Spaniards and strangled, and under which he -was buried. Near the fountain in the plasa are still visible the -foundation stones of the small battery erected by Pizarro, in the front -of which Valverde delivered his famous harangue to the Inca, and whence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> -he commanded the Spanish soldiers to massacre the indians. About a -league from the city are the baths where Atahualpa was living when -Pizarro arrived; the one on the right hand is called the bath of the -Inca. Near to the baths there is also a farm house belonging (1812) to -Doña Mercedes Arce, where there are many ruins of what appears to have -been a granary or store belonging to the Inca; here are many -excavations, in some of which there are marks on the stones of one -thousand, two thousand, &c.—this has induced some people to search for -treasure, but none has ever yet been found. At the distance of two -leagues from Caxamarca is a stone called <i>inga rirpo</i>, resting stone of -the Inca; it is similar to the one described by M. Humboldt, which he -saw at the <i>Paramo de Asuay</i>, which is called inga <i>chungana</i>, Inca's -resting place. The inga rirpo, near to Caxamarca, is a large block of -freestone, eleven feet long, two feet eight inches high above the -ground, and thirteen inches thick; it has two grooves cut across it near -to the centre, four inches deep, and five inches wide; here are also the -remains of a circular enclosure surrounding it eight yards in diameter; -it stands on the <i>Camino del Inca</i>, the military road on which the Incas -travelled from Cusco to Quito.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> The site of this resting stone commands -a most beautiful prospect of the valley of Caxamarca. The tradition of -the indians is, that the Inca used to be brought here to enjoy the -prospect, and that the two grooves in the stone were made, that the -cross ledges of his throne on which he was carried might rest secure in them.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Province of Caxamarca....Manufactures, Mines....Village de -Jesus....Hawking....Farm of Lagunilla....Inga Tambo....Village of -San Marcos....Feast....Wedding....Village of Ichocan....Mine of -Gualgayoc....Return to the Coast....Village of Chocope....Of San -Pedro....Of Las Lagemas....Of Monsefu....Town of -Lambayeque....Inhabitants, Buildings, New Altar....Manufactures, -Soap, Cordovans, Cotton Goods, Sweetmeats....Fruits, Grain, -Pulse....Vegetables....Market....<i>Algarroba</i>, Carob Tree....Village -of Eten....Of Morrope....<i>Simarones</i>....Desert of Sechura....Town -of Sechura....City of Piura....Inhabitants, -Buildings....Mules....Manufactures....Climate....Effect on -Syphilis....Commerce....Port of Paita....Excellent Situation for an -Astronomical Observatory.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The province of Caxamarca is intersected by ramifications of the -Cordillera; and having several low valleys, it consequently contains the -various climates or temperatures, from extreme heat to intense cold: -thus all kinds of fruit and grain peculiar to different climates are -cultivated in this province: it abounds, also, in all kinds of cattle -and poultry; and many obrages, manufactories of cloth, baizes, blankets, -and tocuyos have been established here.</p> - -<p>The most extensive manufactories for woollen cloths are Polloc and -Sondor, belonging<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> (1812) to Don Tomas Bueno; and that for blankets, at -Yana-cancha, belonging, at the same date, to Don Miguel Sarachaga. The -blankets are very tastefully embroidered by the Indians, with loose -yarn, before they undergo the operation of fulling, so that the colours -have the appearance of being stamped on them.</p> - -<p>Many silver and gold mines exist in this province; but since the -discovery of the rich ores of Gualgayoc, in the neighbouring province of -Chota, the mines of Caxamarca have been abandoned. On the shores of the -river called de las Crisnejas, which falls into the Marañon, are several -washing places, <i>lavaderos</i>, of gold. On the north side of the province, -where it joins that of Jaen, some bark trees are found, the produce of -which is little inferior to the famous cinchona of Loxa.</p> - -<p>During my stay at Caxamarca I visited several of the towns and villages; -that called de Jesus, five leagues from the city, is an indian village, -pleasantly situated in a small valley bounded by high mountains, at the -foot of which on the north side runs the Caxamarca river; on the side of -this river several water mills have been erected for grinding wheat, an -abundance of which is cultivated in the neighbourhood. While at this -place I several times visited my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> friend Don Tomas Arce, for the purpose -of accompanying him to take partridges with falcons; with two of these -birds and a springer we have often returned, after a few hours' sport, -with five or six brace of partridges of the large red legged kind, but -of a very delicate flavour. We frequently set out in the evening and -slept at some farm house on the hills, and in the morning took each of -us a falcon on our hard gloves and rode to the stubble fields; when the -dog sprang the game, we threw up our falcons, and followed them to the -place where they fell with their prey in their talons; this we could -easily discover by the sound of the bells fastened to the legs of the -falcon. We generally gave to our birds the brains of the partridges -which they had killed, then took them on our arms, and mounted to search -for more game. As the country abounds in <i>venados</i>, deer, Don Tomas had -trained a falcon to pursue them; he stuffed the skin of one of these -animals, in the eye pits of which he accustomed the bird to search for -its food; he sometimes placed the stuffed skin on the shoulders of a -boy, who ran away with it, when the falcon was allowed to follow him in -quest of its food. In this easy manner the falcon was trained to catch -deer, and it afforded us a great deal of amusement<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> by flying after the -animal and perching on its head; this gave us time to come up and secure -the brute with a laso, or to kill it.</p> - -<p>I had been convinced, before I visited this province, that the character -of the South American indians was far different from what it had been -reported to be by all the Spanish writers, excepting the virtuous Las -Casas: otherwise, I should have been astonished at what I saw at this -village, where the indians have had but little intercourse with the -Spaniards, compared with those of whom Ulloa and Condamine so -contemptuously speak. Many festivals are observed at this village by the -indians; and although the Spanish language is little used, and the -Quichua alone is spoken, two, three, or more Spanish plays are performed -by them at each festival, amounting to, at least, twenty in each year. -This fondness for theatrical performances, which the indians evince—the -difficulty they labour under to learn their parts, in a language not -their own—beside the expences incidental to the representations, must -certainly prove that the aspersions of historians are unmerited.</p> - -<p>Near to this village is a farm, called la Lagunilla, on which are the -remains of an indian town, most curiously built; many of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> houses are -yet entire; they are all built of stone, and surround a small rock or -mountain, which is situated in a valley: the bottom tier or range of -rooms have walls of an amazing thickness, in which I have measured -stones twelve feet long and seven feet high, forming the whole side of a -room, with one or more large stones laid across, which serve as a roof. -Above these houses another tier was built in the same manner, on the -back of which are the entrances or doorways, and a second row had their -backs to the mountain. The roofs of the second tier in front had been -covered with stone, and probably formed a promenade; a second tier of -rooms thus rested on the roofs of the first tier, which were on a level -with the second front tier. In this manner one double tier of dwelling -rooms was built above another to the height of seven tiers. On the top -are many ruins, apparently of a palace or fortress.</p> - -<p>When I first visited this place, I imagined that the rooms were -excavations in the rock; but I was very soon convinced that the whole -had been built, and I was astonished at contemplating such immense -labour, the real purpose of which is now unknown. The rooms are seldom -more than about twelve feet square and seven feet high, with a high -door-way in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> front, narrower at the top than at the bottom; the stone -has been wrought for the fronts into irregular sized squares, which are -cemented together. Some of the thick walls are formed of two casings of -stone, and the interstice is filled up with small stones and pebbles, -held together with well tempered reddish clay, which at present forms so -solid a mass, that it is almost equal to stone. The cement used to hold -the stones together, was, doubtless, tempered clay; but so little was -used, that some have imagined that the stones were merely placed one -upon another; in this surmise, however, they were evidently mistaken.</p> - -<p>The whole of this building would have contained at least five thousand -families; but we are not certain that it was ever applied to that -purpose. Some traditions call it one of the palaces, or houses of -reception, for the Incas when they travelled; but this is by no means -probable, for it does not stand within a league of the great road of the -Incas, and being only five leagues from Caxamarca, it is not likely that -such an edifice would have been built for such a purpose. Others state, -that it was the general granary for this part of the country in the time -of the Incas; but this is also subject to the same objections; for, as I -have already mentioned, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> remains of one exist on the farm belonging -to Doña Mercedes Arce, near to Caxamarca; and the ruins of all those -granaries which I have seen at different places are a kind of cisterns, -walled round either with adobes or rough hewn stones. It appears to me -as far more probable, that this was the residence of the Chimu of -Chicama, when he resided in the interior of his territory, before it -became subject to the Inca Pachacutec. The top of the mountain appears -to have been covered with buildings of a superior kind to the rest; for -some of the foundations may be traced, enclosing rooms and courts more -extensive than are to be found in any other part of this mass of -buildings. There are four principal roads leading from the bottom to the -top, corresponding with the four cardinal points; and from each of these -roads or streets the inhabitants could walk on the tops of their houses -to the next, and probably round the whole by bridges laid across the -intersecting roads; so that seven promenades were thus formed, besides -the six circular streets. The proprietor of this estate, Don Tomas -Bueno, fancied that it was the remains of an ancient temple, and -supposed that a great treasure was somewhere hidden; but I never could -persuade him to cut an adit through it in search of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> huaca. Here are -no remains of delicate sculpture, although a few arabesques may be seen -on some of the stones; nor is there any appearance of elegant -architecture, for which the ancient Greeks and Romans were so famous. -However, the immense ingenuity of the builders in conveying and placing -such huge masses of stone in such a situation, as well as the extracting -them from the quarries without machinery, and shaping them without iron -tools, must astound the contemplating beholder of these ruins, and make -him blush at hearing the builders called barbarians. Such epithets are -equally applicable to the Egyptians, on viewing their rude ancient -monuments; but we feel conscious that these people were in possession of -the arts and sciences when our forefathers in Europe were in a state of -barbarity; we consider, too, that from their plantations the first -scions were brought to Greece and Italy, and that these exotics were -afterwards transplanted into our own country.</p> - -<p>Near to these ruins is a small lake, <i>laguna</i>, from which the estate -derives its name; it is of an oval figure, the transverse axis being -nine hundred yards, and the conjugate six hundred and fifty. One side of -the lake rests on the foot of the mountains, which separate the farm<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> -from the valley of Caxamarca, on the opposite side of which mountains -the river runs. An excavation or tunnel is cut through one of these -mountains, through which the water of the lake is discharged into the -river, when it rises nearly to a level with the surrounding land, and -thus a flooding of it is prevented. This lake was probably the quarry -whence the stone was taken for the building just described, and the -passage was probably opened at the same time by the indians, to prevent -the water from deluging the low lands, which bespeaks that attention to -economy so evident in the establishments of the ancient Peruvians.</p> - -<p>The farm house here, with all the stables and other buildings, are of -stone, brought from the <i>Tambo del Inca</i>, as the ruins are called: all -the yards are paved with the same, and they have a very neat and clean -appearance; however, I could not help wishing that the stones had -remained undisturbed in their former interesting situation; but many -have also been carried, for the same purposes, to different places.</p> - -<p>I visited the town of San Marcos, eight leagues from Caxamarca; it is -most delightfully situated in a very fruitful valley, enjoying all the -benefits of a tropical climate, and affording a rich<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> variety of fruits: -the apples, peaches, and other European fruits, are found in great -perfection, as well as oranges, lemons, paltas, bananas, plantains, &c. -My visit to this town happened at the time of the annual festival; on -this account I was entertained with bull fights, indian dancers, and the -representation of theatrical pieces; the town was full of visitors from -the neighbouring country, and every countenance bore a smile of -satisfaction, while mirth and pleasure appeared to reign in every -breast.</p> - -<p>I was present in the parish church, which is a large neat brick and -stone building, very much ornamented within, at the celebration of the -wedding of a son and daughter of two Caciques, the boy being eleven -years old, and the girl thirteen. When they left the church, after the -ceremony was over, they ran in different directions, the boy to play -with his comrades, and the girl to join hers, as if they had merely been -at church as spectators, and not the parties concerned. I afterwards -asked the cura how it happened, that two such thoughtless children -should be married? He answered me, "<i>por rason de estado</i>," giving me to -understand, that as they were both of noble origin, their parents had -married them at that age to prevent them marrying with their inferiors. -The principal benefit<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> derived from preserving the nobility of the -families is, their children being admissible into the colleges, and to -the three learned bodies, divinity, law, and physic.</p> - -<p>Two leagues from San Marcos stands the village of Ichocan, on the top of -an eminence, consequently its climate is very cold; the cura here was an -indian, and from his corpulency might be known, according to an adage in -Peru, that he was a Cacique; for when a person is very jolly, it is -generally said, that he is as fat as a Cacique, <i>tan gordo como un -Cacique</i>. This cura was for some time the vicar of the province, and was -looked upon as an oracle in Latinity and Theology. He was a very -cheerful companion, possessed an extensive library of Latin, Greek, -English, and French books, which he had studied; and was more acquainted -with general science than any other person I met with in this part of -Peru.</p> - -<p>The produce of the parish of Ichocan is confined almost entirely to -wheat, but it is considered the best, and fetches the highest price of -any in the whole district; it sells on an average for from three to -three and a half dollars the <i>fanega</i>, which is nearly three bushels. I -afterwards visited several other villages; but a description of them -would only be tedious and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> uninteresting. The natives of this province -are noted for industry and hospitality; the population of indians at the -time of the conquest was very extensive, forming upwards of five hundred -settlements; but they are now reduced to forty-six.</p> - -<p>The capital of the province is so situated, that it is likely to become -an important commercial town; it is now the great market for this -province, as well as for those of Chota, Chachapoyas, and Guallubamba. -Eighteen leagues from Caxamarca is the celebrated silver mine called -Gualgayoc, which, from the slovenly manner in which it has been wrought, -produces but little good ore at present (1812); although ten years ago -it was considered superior to the celebrated mine at Pasco: quantities -of ore were extracted from the two shafts called <i>la mina del rey</i>, and -<i>la del purgatorio</i>, which yielded a hundred and forty marks per caxon -of fifty quintals.</p> - -<p>I left Caxamarca and returned to Truxillo, and thence proceeded along -the coast to the northward. My first stage of eleven leagues was to -Chocope, a neat village containing about forty houses, chiefly inhabited -by white families; it stands on a part of the valley of Chicama. In the -year 1746 this village was totally<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> ruined by rain, which continued for -thirty-four successive nights. The sky was clear during the day from -sunrise to sunset, at which time it began to rain; and as such a -phenomenon was totally unexpected, and the houses constructed of -materials unable to resist it, the whole of the village was destroyed. -In 1748 it rained in the same manner for eleven nights; but since that -period there has been no repetition of so destructive an occurrence, nor -is there any record of a similar one before that time on this or any -other part of the Peruvian coast, from 18° to 4° of latitude. It is also -extraordinary, that this rain did not extend six leagues either to the -north or to the south.</p> - -<p>My next stage of thirteen leagues brought me to San Pedro, after passing -a small village called Payjan. San Pedro is composed of about a hundred -and fifty houses, of <i>baxareque</i>, canes cased with clay: it is a parish -belonging to the order of Augustin friars, who have a small convent -here. The population is composed principally of indians, whose chief -occupation is the cultivation of the lands in the valley of the same -name, which is watered by the river Pacasmayo, and produces most -abundant crops of wheat; it was formerly considered to be the granary of -Lima; but after the earthquake in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> 1687 the crops entirely failed for -almost twenty years; since which period the land has again resumed its -usual fertility. This circumstance has been already mentioned when -speaking of Lima and la Barranca. At this time the Peruvians began to -send their vessels to Chile for wheat, which commerce has been -constantly kept up ever since, and to which Chile is indebted for many -comforts among the lower classes, and for many rich capitals among the -higher. The indians of San Pedro are particularly cleanly in their -persons and houses; but I had been told that their chicha was mascada, -chewed; and although the natives assured me that they had of both kinds, -I was fearful of being deceived—I did not wish to have a second-hand or -rather a second-mouthed beverage, so I drank water. The indians appeared -here to be perfectly comfortable and happy; and as their allotments of -land produced them a reasonable competency, they seemed to be a people -almost independent of their conquerors.</p> - -<p>The next stage brought me to las Lagunas, a distance of nine leagues, -having forded on the road the river Xequetepeque, about half a league -below the village of the same name. Las Lagunas, the lakes, is a low -swampy country, formed by the overflowings of the river Saña; the small<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> -lakes which are formed are filled with wild ducks, some of which are of -a most beautiful plumage, and very delicate eating. Here are only a few -huts, partly for the accommodation of travellers, and partly the -residence of fishermen, who catch large quantities of very fine lisas, -and dry them for sale; these are so very delicate when grilled, that -travellers look forward to their arrival at Lagunas to eat them. Five -leagues from this place is the village of Monsefu, which is a remarkably -handsome place; the houses are very neatly built, with wide corridors in -front, and whitewashed; several small streams of water cross the -principal street; these are employed in irrigating the gardens and the -orchards, which are attached to almost all the houses, and which produce -most excellent grapes, quinces, pomegranates and other fruits, both -European and tropical, particularly <i>cambures</i>, which are very small -bananas, and are equal in flavour to the most delicate ripe pears. After -dining here on <i>gualdrapas</i>, goat's flesh, taken from the upper part of -the neck, slightly salted and dried, and which is very similar to -venison, we proceeded to Lambayeque, travelling through a wood of -<i>algarrobas</i>, carob trees, for more than three leagues.</p> - -<p>Lambayeque is the capital of the province,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> and the residence of the -Subdelegado; it has always attracted the attention of travellers, as -being the most populous and the greatest trading town between Lima and -Guayaquil. It is situated about two leagues from the sea, and four from -its sea-port, called Pacasmayo, where the river of this name enters the -Pacific, partly by which river and partly by the river Lambayeque the -town and the surrounding country are watered.</p> - -<p>The town of Lambayeque contains upwards of eight thousand inhabitants, -Spanish, creoles, indians, negroes, and mixed breeds, or castes. Some of -the houses are large and commodious; the parish church is of stone; it -is a handsome edifice, and contains many costly ornaments. Attached to -it are four chapels of ease, called <i>ramadas</i>; these are so many -parishes of indians, each having a cura, independent of the cura of the -<i>matris</i>, or parish church, of the white inhabitants. I was at this town -in 1811, when the first mass was celebrated at the new altar, built at -the expence of Dr. Delgado, and dedicated to <i>Nuestra Señora del -Carmen</i>; at this time a most sumptuous feast was held during a whole -week, attended with bull fights, mains of cocks, and horse racing during -the day; with balls, <i>tertulias</i>, chit-chat parties, and gambling, at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> -night; and the whole of the inhabitants seemed entirely devoted to mirth -and pleasure.</p> - -<p>The principal manufactures here are soap, cordovans of goats' skins, -cotton cloths, and sweetmeats. From the extensive flocks of goats which -are fed in the algarroba wood which surrounds this town, the tallow is -procured for the soap manufactories, and the alkali is obtained from the -<i>lico</i>, salsola, which is found in abundance in this province, as well -as in that of Saña, and the valley of Chicama. The soap is very hard, -and is cut into cakes or small bars, four of which, and sometimes six, -only weigh a pound; the average price is from twenty to twenty-five -dollars the quintal. Its quality is far inferior to that of English -soap, owing particularly to its hardness, and the quantities of -impurities which it contains; notwithstanding which, it is preferred to -any other soap—such is the obstinacy implanted by the habit of using -it.</p> - -<p>The skins of the goats are tanned with the bark of the huarango, and -sometimes with that of the algarroba, and the cordovans are of an -excellent quality. These articles have a very extensive sale, which -extends to the whole coast of Peru and many of the provinces in the -interior, as well as to the province of Guayaquil, and to different -parts of the kingdom of Quito.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span></p><p>Quantities of tocuyo, counterpanes, table cloths, napkins and other -articles of cotton, some of which are very fine, are manufactured here, -as well as cotton canvass, or sail cloth; notwithstanding the extent of -these works, all the yarn is spun with the distaff and spindle, so that -all the females of the lower classes find constant employment. The -tocuyos made here are not considered so good, and consequently are not -in such demand as those of Conchucos, but an extensive trade is carried -on in the other articles. Here is an extensive mill for cleaning the -cotton from the seeds, similar to that at Casma, and some large -remittances of cotton have been made from this place to Europe.</p> - -<p>The manufacture of sweetmeats consists chiefly of marmalade and jelly, -made from quinces, guavas, and limes. It is packed in chip boxes, each -holding about two pounds, which sell at half a dollar each; they are -sent to Lima, Guayaquil, and other places along the coast. Hats of palm -and <i>junco</i>, fine rushes, are made here, and carried to the same markets -as the other manufactures.</p> - -<p>Oranges, limes, lemons, grapes, guavas, pacays, melons, paltas, -huanabanas, chirimoyas, anonas, plantains, bananas, pomegranates, -granadialls, tumbos, quinces, pine-apples, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> many other fruits grow -here and in the neighbourhood in great abundance, and they are of an -excellent quality; apples, pears, and other European fruits do not -thrive. Wheat, maize, beans, lentils, garbansos, and other pulse, also -yucas, batatas or sweet potatoes, yams, and other esculents, as well as -potatoes and all kinds of culinary vegetables, arrive at great -perfection; hence the market is abundantly supplied with them, as well -as with good beef, fish and poultry; mutton is scarce and not very good, -but the young kid is superior to lamb.</p> - -<p>The <i>algarroba</i>, carob tree, grows in the vicinity of Lambayeque in -great abundance, and is of such utility, that a law exists to prevent -the owners from cutting them down: they grow to the size of our largest -oaks; the wood is very hard, the leaf small, and the branches bear an -abundance of clusters of pods, about four inches long and three-quarters -of an inch broad, containing five or six black seeds, like small beans. -When ripe the pod is of a brown colour, and has a sweet taste; the -cattle are very fond of it, and become very fat with eating it; the -mules that feed on the carob pods, after a journey to Lima, a hundred -and forty leagues, return apparently fat; but the greatest profit -derived from this valuable tree is from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> the number of goats which are -annually fed on the pods. These animals reach the lower branches of the -trees themselves, and they are afterwards assisted in procuring their -food by the goatherds, who climb the trees, and beat down the leaves and -pods with long canes. At certain times of the year, when the pods become -scarce, the goats will follow their goatherds any where, without the -need of a driver, as if conscious that their existence depended on the -assistance of their keepers. Some of the goats will become so plump, -that it is not uncommon for one goat to yield a quintal, one hundred -pounds weight, of tallow and fat; for the whole of the fat is separated -from the flesh, this latter being considered of very little value, -excepting that part which covers the bones of the neck, which is eaten -as a delicacy, and is really equal to venison. A considerable share of -superstition belongs to the goatherds, who are indians. They believe -that some men have the power, by witchcraft, to convey the fat of one -flock of goats to another, if care be not taken to prevent them from so -doing; for the prevention of this mischief they have different amulets, -which they tie round the necks or horns of the old goats, especially -those which are called the Captains of the flocks.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> These charms consist -of shells, beans, and a kind of nutmeg brought from the province of Jaen -de Bracamoros. I was several times entertained by the tales told by the -indians; they would assert, that a flock of fat goats had been placed -under the care of an unskilful goatherd, and that in one night a wizard, -<i>hichisero</i>, had deprived them of all their fat, and conveyed it to -another flock, to the astonishment, of particularly one party, who in -the morning found his fat flock reduced to skin and bone, bleating their -lamentations for the loss which they had sustained.</p> - -<p>From the pods of the algarroba the indians make chicha, by merely -infusing them in water, straining it, and allowing it to ferment: at the -expiration of three or four days it is very palatable, and if proper -attention were paid to it, I believe that a very delicate wine would be -procured. Small cakes called <i>arepas</i> are sometimes made by the indians -from the pods reduced to powder; they are certainly not unpalatable, -though very coarse.</p> - -<p>Five leagues from Lambeyeque is a village called Chiclayo, which is the -neatest and most social place along the whole coast; it contains several -respectable inhabitants, its situation in the valley of Lambayeque is -delightful; the productions and the market are good. It has a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> small -convent of Franciscans, to which order the curacy belongs.</p> - -<p>The trade of Lambayeque, owing to its productions and the industry of -the inhabitants, is very extensive; the neighbouring provinces depend on -its manufactories, and it will undoubtedly become the great mart for the -inland provinces for European goods. Some of the shops and stores are -well stocked with European manufactures, of which the sale is very -extensive; and as its commerce extends to countries of such different -climates, all kinds of useful foreign articles are in considerable -demand. The town of Eten stands on a sandy plain, and is entirely -inhabited by indians; these are the only people who speak the Chimu -dialect which is the original language of the coast of Peru, and so -different from the Quichua, that I could not understand a single word, -nor trace any analogy between them, and beyond the limits of their town -their language is unintelligible. It may very reasonably be expected -that these people possess the true character of the indians; if they do, -it is a very worthy one; they are temperate, industrious and kind; they -do not allow any person except indians to reside among them, and a -traveller is only suffered to remain three days in the town; but the -Alcaldes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> always take care that he be provided with whatever he may -require. Cotton cloths to a large extent are manufactured here, and the -natives wear nothing that is not made by their own hands; hence many of -them are possessed of considerable wealth, for the sale of their own -goods is very extensive. They differ in their dress from the generality -of the indians; the men wear white jackets and breeches, these having a -slip of red cloth at the knees, in which the button holes are wrought; -the females wear a kind of long black or blue tunic, without sleeves, -girt round the waist; both sexes wear straw hats, and very seldom put on -shoes.</p> - -<p>When I left Lambayeque I was obliged to prepare myself with a guide, and -a spare mule, for water and provisions, as well for ourselves as for the -animals, because we had now to traverse the desert of Sechura, the -largest on the Peruvian coast. We left Lambayeque, and halted the first -night at a small village called Morope, four leagues distant from that -place. The road between these towns is often frequented by robbers, who -are generally runaway slaves, <i>simarones</i>, who lurk among the low -brushwood on the road sides, and attack the passengers; they seldom -molest a person if they observe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> that he is armed, but they plunder the -indians and mountaineers, <i>serranos</i>, of their money and goods, and -murders are more frequently committed here than in any part of Peru. A -short time before I passed this way, the police officers and the militia -had apprehended five of these simarones; to effect this they set the -brushwood on fire in several places, and in a short time the whole was -in flames, so that the robbers were actually burnt out of their hiding -places.</p> - -<p>Morope contains about ninety houses or huts, ranchos, built of cane -covered with clay, and a thousand inhabitants, all indians. The parish -church is a large neat building, extremely clean, and tastefully -ornamented within. We here filled our calabashes with water, and my -indian guide purchased some maize for the mules; as the chicha here is -mascada, I preferred putting water into my two small calabashes, which I -carried in my saddle bags, <i>alforjas</i>.</p> - -<p>We left Morope at four o'clock in the afternoon, and arrived before it -was dark at the <i>Medanos</i>; these are hills of sand in the form of a -crescent, the convex side being always opposed to the wind, for as it -shifts, the sand is blown up the one side and falls down on the other; -thus these hills are continually changing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> their size and situation, -flitting from one place to another, to the imminent danger of a -traveller, should his guide be ignorant of the road, for all traces -disappear, by the sand continually drifting along with the wind. If a -guide have any reason to suspect that he is out of the track, he will -alight, take up a handful of the sand and smell to it, because the dung -and urine of the mules that traverse the desert communicate an odour to -the sand along the road, which in other parts it does not possess. About -midnight we met a troop of laden mules, and halted to converse with the -muleteers; we drank some of their chicha, and I invited them to partake -of ours; I had brought some brandy, <i>aguardiente</i>, and had no chicha, -but they did not appear to relish it less than they would have done -their countrymen's liquor, for they emptied my bottle. I drank some of -theirs, and ate some sweet cakes, which they called <i>alfajor</i>; they were -very good. At parting I told them I was glad I had met them, because it -was a proof that we were not bewildered: that could not happen, said my -guide, for the Cross is our director, pointing to the constellation -behind us in the heavens; and it is not midnight yet, said he, for the -cross leans to yesterday; the two stars at the top and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> foot of this -beautiful constellation were not erect in the south.</p> - -<p>After travelling about two leagues more, we met a traveller with his -guide, who saluted us with <i>buen viage</i>, a good journey to you; morning -is coming, the cross bends to the sea, and I must arrive early at -Morope. This was an excuse for not halting; and we continued our route. -When the first rays of morning began to appear, the air became suddenly -chill, and I put on my poncho; my guide did the same, and said to me, -"the light drives the frosty air from the mountains, <i>serros</i>, before -it; it is always cold in the morning in the desert, but this refreshes -us before the sun comes to burn us in the rest of our journey." Whether -this chilly sensation felt at sunrise be merely the result of the -absence of the sun, for it is then the longest period since it set; or -whether it be partly apprehension at beholding the sun again without -feeling the heat which it afterwards communicates, I cannot determine; -but I have universally experienced the effect in tropical climates. -During the whole of this day, we saw nothing save sand and sky; and -although I was accustomed to travel on the coasts of this country, I now -experienced an indescribable dulness and languor; at length, before -night closed, the two steeples of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> church at Sechura became visible; -but they had more the appearance of a vessel at sea than of church -steeples. At nine o'clock on the following morning we arrived at the -town of Sechura; I went to the house of the alcalde, and immediately -laid myself down and slept very soundly, being excessively fatigued by a -journey of forty leagues over the most dreary country I had ever -witnessed.</p> - -<p>The town of Sechura contains about two hundred and fifty houses, and two -thousand inhabitants, all of whom are indians, equally industrious and -temperate as those of Eten; the men are principally muleteers and -fishermen, the women employ themselves in spinning and weaving cotton. -The church in this town is a surprising edifice; it has two very high -steeples, and a handsome cupola built of brick; it is roofed with cane, -which is covered with clay, and the whole evinces enormous labour, both -in procuring the materials of which it is built, as well as in the -erection of the edifice; it is, indeed, one of those monuments of -industry and labour which must ever attract the attention of travellers. -This is the first town in the jurisdiction of Piura, and all passengers -must present to the alcalde their passports,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> without which they cannot -obtain either mules or a guide.</p> - -<p>I left Sechura immediately after I awoke, and had taken some -refreshment, feeling anxious to arrive at Piura, it being the first town -founded by the Spaniards in South America. After travelling over ten -leagues, all of which is a sandy plain, I arrived at Piura, and -immediately went to the house of a gentleman for whom I had letters; and -although it was near midnight I received a hearty welcome from all the -family, who left their beds to see the stranger.</p> - -<p>Although Piura is always accounted the first Spanish settlement in South -America, it is not exactly the same place which Pizarro founded in 1531; -that town stood on the plain of Targasola, at a short distance from the -site of the present city, and from whence it was removed on account of -the insalubrity of the climate. The present city, which is the capital -of the province, was founded by Don Francisco Pizarro, who also built -here the first Christian church in Peru. It contains at present a parish -church, a convent of San Francisco and one of La Merced, and a hospital -under the management of the Bethlemite Friars. The houses are built -either of canes covered with clay, or of sun-dried bricks; and very few -have an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span>upper story. The streets are not paved, and consequently, like -those of Truxillo, they are almost ankle deep in sand and dirt. The -enormous quantity of bugs in the houses is quite a nuisance. The -inhabitants of Piura amount to about nine thousand; they are Spaniards, -white creoles, indians, negroes, and mixed breeds.</p> - -<p>Piura is noted for the finest breed of mules in Peru; many are taken to -Truxillo, Lima and other places, both on the coast and in the interior, -for sale; some of them fetch the amazing high price of two hundred and -fifty dollars each. The breed of goats is also very extensive in this -district; in the capital large quantities of soap and leather, -<i>cordovanes</i>, are prepared and carried for sale to Guayaquil, Quito, -Cuenca, Panama, and Lima. Some cotton goods are manufactured here, but -not to the same extent as at Lambayeque. The principal occupation of the -men is to attend to their mules, for the services of which there is -great demand, because all the goods landed at Piura are carried by mules -to Lima, a distance of three hundred and eighty leagues, besides which -their own productions are thus transported to that and other places. The -manufacture of cordage from the <i>maguey</i> employs many persons in the -interior of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> province, and considerable quantities of this cordage -is consumed by the merchants in Peru in cording bales of merchandize and -other similar purposes; but it has never yet been applied to naval -equipments, except in the canoes and balsas.</p> - -<p>As part of this province is mountainous, it contains a variety of -climates; but that of the capital is hot and dry to such a degree, that -if a sheet of paper be placed on the ground in the evening, it may be -taken up at any hour of the night or morning, and written on without any -inconvenience, for it will be found perfectly dry. Many persons -afflicted with syphilis resort to Piura for the purpose of being cured, -which is effected by merely residing here, without the aid of any -medicine. It is believed that the water which is usually drunk -contributes more to the re-establishment of their health than the -climate; for, in its course, it runs over very extensive beds of -sarsaparilla, and the fallen trees of <i>palo santo</i>, the guiaco trees; -and as the bed of the river is completely dry during the summer months, -the inhabitants are obliged to dig wells in the bed of the river, at -which time the water being more strongly impregnated with the virtues of -these two vegetables, it is considered more efficacious in removing that -disease.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> Some patients are buried to the neck in the sand for one or -two hours, and drink copiously of the water, by which means a most -profuse perspiration is produced, and their cure is very much -facilitated. The poor people here make use of pieces of dry palo santo -as a substitute for candles; they merely light the end of the stick, and -a flame of a reddish colour is produced, which continues to burn till -the whole stick is consumed, communicating an agreeable scent to the -house.</p> - -<p>Piura is not well situated for mercantile business; it commands none of -the interior provinces, and its own population can never render it a -place of importance. Fourteen leagues from Piura is the sea-port of -Paita, and to the goods landed here from Panama, destined to be carried -to different parts of Peru, the inhabitants of Piura owe their principal -occupation.</p> - -<p>Paita is a very commodious and well frequented port, in latitude 5° 5' -S.; the anchorage is good, and the landing is excellent. The town of -Paita was destroyed in 1741 by Anson; in the church of the Merced the -friars shew an image of the Virgin Mary, which had its throat cut by one -of the heretics who accompanied Anson, the blood yet remaining on her -neck, and the wound unhealed. The present town is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> composed of about two -hundred houses; the inhabitants are principally indians, many of them -are employed in a seafaring life, and they are considered to be good -sailors. The country around Paita is a complete barren sandy desert, not -a drop of water nor a green leaf is any where to be seen, and the heat -is remarkably oppressive. The water used here is brought from the river -Colan, four leagues to the northward of Paita, in large calabashes, or -earthen jars, on balsas or rafts, and it is consequently sold at a very -high price to the ships in need of it, as well as to the inhabitants. -Here is a Custom House, with the necessary revenue officers and a -Governor. On the south side of the bay is a small fort, with four long -brass cannons of eighteen pound calibre.</p> - -<p>Owing to the constant clearness of the sky at Paita, perhaps no place in -the world is better suited for an astronomical observatory; the stars -are always visible at night, owing to the total absence of clouds; -besides which the atmosphere is at all times of nearly the same density; -no mists, dews or fogs, ever pervade it; it is surrounded by the Pacific -Ocean on one side, and extensive sandy plains on the other; and, owing -to the brilliancy with which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> the celestial bodies shine here, it is -become proverbial to say, "as bright as the moon at Paita."</p> - -<p>I embarked at Paita in a small brig belonging to an indian, who was the -captain, and after a tedious coasting voyage of fifty-one days arrived at Callao.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Leave Lima for Guayaquil....<i>Amortajado</i>....Puná....Arrival of the -Spaniards, and Conquest of....Village of....Inhabitant....Passage -up the River Guayaquil....<i>Punta de Arena</i>....Guayaquil....Foundation and Description -of....Buildings....Inhabitants....Amusements....Market....Fruit....Climate....Insects -and Reptiles....Dock Yard....Project of Sawing Mills....Balsa, -Description of....Navigation of....Canoes....Merchants of -Guayaquil.</p></blockquote> - -<p>On my arrival at Lima, his Excellency the Count Ruis de Castilla -solicited me as an attendant to accompany him to Quito, the King having -appointed him the President, Captain-general, &c. I immediately embraced -the proposals, and in June, 1808, we embarked at Callao for Guayaquil, -where his Excellency being detained by an indisposition, I enjoyed a -month's leisure to visit different parts of the province.</p> - -<p>At the entrance of the river Guayaquil is an extraordinary rock, called -<i>el amortajado</i>, the shrouded corpse, from the resemblance which it -bears to a body shrouded in the Franciscan habit; the head, the body, -the arms folded on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> the breast, and the rising of the feet, as the whole -seems to lie on its back, are very correctly seen at the distance of -from two to five miles.</p> - -<p>Having arrived at the island of the Puná, we anchored for the purpose of -waiting for the next tide, having had a pilot, <i>practico</i>, to bring us -hither. The island stretches S.W. and N.E. about eight leagues, and is -about four leagues broad in its widest part. In 1530 Don Francisco -Pizarro landed here, at which time it was governed by a chief or -Cacique; Pizarro was tempted to visit this island by the accounts he had -received from the Indians at Tumpis, who were at war with those of the -Puná, that these latter were in possession of immense quantities of -gold. On the arrival of Pizarro, the natives opposed his landing; but -having effected it, a sharp engagement ensued, in which a considerable -number of Indians were slain; three Spanish soldiers also were killed, -and several more were wounded, among whom was Don Hernando Pizarro. At -the time of the first landing of the Spaniards on this island, in 1530, -it was inhabited by upwards of twenty thousand Indians; but from the -persecution which they suffered for having bravely opposed their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> -invaders—when a census was taken in 1734, only ninety-six remained; and -since that period those few have all retired to Machala.</p> - -<p>Near to the anchorage is a small village, inhabited chiefly by mulattos; -there is a Spanish church, and a house, called <i>del rey</i>, which, when -vessels unload, serves as a custom-house. On the arrival of a person who -is unacquainted with the beauties of a tropical climate, or who has been -accustomed to the dreary scenery of the coast of Peru, he is almost -enchanted with the luxuriant prospect presented to his view. The whole -of the surrounding country is covered with woods, with here and there a -few small houses, starting, as it were, from the green foliage on the -margin of the river, which has here the appearance of an extensive lake. -The houses are built of canes, and have an upper story, but are without -a ground floor. They are constructed by placing four or more logs of -timber in the ground, and at the height of ten feet a floor of large -split canes is laid, supported by a frame-work of mangroves; a roof of -palm or other leaves is then formed, which descends to within five feet -of the ground-floor; a rude varanda of canes encloses the whole -building, which, in the larger houses, is divided by canes into two or -three apartments; but in the smaller<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> houses they have only one room. -The ascent is by a ladder, sometimes merely the trunk of a tree with -steps cut in it. The houses in this village rise gradually behind each -other, without any order or regularity, interspersed with some large and -beautiful tamarind trees, equal in size to our largest oaks: beneath -these the pompous banana waves its huge leaves, and droops with the -weight of its golden fruit; while above towers the majestic cocoa palm, -laden with its numerous branches of nuts, hanging beneath a cupola of -feather-like foliage.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Puná leave their houses during part of the year, and -retire to other places, where they cultivate maize, pumpkins, tobacco, -&c.; after which they return to sell such produce as they are possessed -of, to the merchants who come to purchase it. They also employ -themselves in cutting mangroves, which are sent to Lima and other parts -of Peru, and in fishing. Owing to a want of water in the island, for -irrigation, there being no rivers, and from the scarcity of rain during -the last ten years, the plantations of cocoa have failed; and, although -formerly upwards of twelve hundred quintals were collected here -annually, not one, at present, is harvested. Owing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> to the same cause, -all cultivation has ceased on the island, and the inhabitants are -obliged to dig wells to supply themselves with good water in summer; -for, although there is a small spring near to the village, for want of -proper attention the water is undrinkable. It is only used for washing, -which operation is performed on the margin; and by throwing near to it -the soapy water, the spring is rendered useless, except for the purpose -to which it is applied.</p> - -<p>After waiting at the Puná for the following tide, we weighed, and stood -up the river: we sometimes passed so near to the mangroves which grow on -the different islands, and even in the water (the trees being supported -by their almost innumerable roots, which cross each other in all -directions), that it appeared as if the branches would become entangled -with the ropes of the ship. On the roots, as well as on the branches of -the mangroves, many beautiful white storks were perched, which -contributed very much to heighten the novelty and beauty of the scene. -Navigation in its primitive state was here presented to us on our -passage:—the unwieldy and creeping balsa lagged behind us, and the next -abrupt turn in the channel hid it from our view, the high trees,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> of -some small island usurping its place in the prospect; while the light -canoe skimmed along on the surface of the water, as if in mockery of our -ship, which might justly boast its superiority over the balsa.</p> - -<p>About seven leagues from the Puná there is a small battery, or rather a -breast-work, formed of the trunks of the <i>palo de balsa</i> and the -<i>ceibo</i>, mounting six guns. The projection of a small promontory, called -sandy point, <i>punta de arena</i>, commands the channel for about two miles, -and this point of defence might easily be made the protecting place of -the city, even against large vessels; while boats and balsas might go up -to the city by another channel of the river, formed by an island -opposite to punta de arena, without any molestation from this battery. -It was late in the evening when we came to an anchor off the city, and I -never beheld a more brilliant view than the one before us. The long -range of houses by the river side presented a double row of lights, one -from the shops below, and another from the upper stories, where the -inhabitants reside: in a few places three rows appeared, some of the -houses having a low story between the shops and the dwelling rooms. At -the extremity of this line of lights the houses in the old city, <i>cuidad -vieja</i>, rose one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> above another, while the many balsas at anchor, or -passing along the river, with fires on board, formed altogether a very -dazzling but pleasing prospect.</p> - -<p>The first town, called Guayaquil, was founded in 1533 in the bay of -Charapotó, by Don Francisco Pizarro; and by the date of the title -granted by Charles V. it was the second town founded in Peru; however -the first was entirely destroyed by the Indians. In 1537, Francisco de -Orrellana built another town on the west side of the river, which was -afterwards removed to the site where cuidad vieja now stands; and, -lastly, in 1793, to its present situation. Its name is taken from that -of its original chief or Cacique, Guayas. The city is divided into two -distinct wards, by a wooden bridge eight hundred yards long; this bridge -crosses several estuaries, and some low ground that is flooded by the -river. The new town, or that part called Guayaquil, extends half a -league along the side of the river, on a plain, having the dock yard at -the southern extremity on the same level; and cuidad vieja, or the old -city, at the northern extremity; one part of which is built on the -acclivity of the hill, and the other on the top of it, where the convent -of Santo Domingo now stands. The principal street, called the Malecon,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> -runs along the side of the river; about the centre of it stands the -custom-house; at the back of this street another runs the whole length -of the city, which, with the intersecting streets, forms the chief part -of Guayaquil.</p> - -<p>This city is the capital of the province, and the residence of the -Governor; it has a municipal authority invested in two alcaldes, and -other officers; the custom-house, <i>aduana</i>, has an accomptant, -treasurer, and inferior officers. The military department is subject to -the Viceroy of Peru; the civil to the Audience of Quito, and the -ecclesiastical to the bishop of Cuenca.</p> - -<p>Here are two parish churches, one in the new town, the other in the old; -both dedicated to Santiago, the patron of the city; also a convent of -Franciscans, one of Augstinians, and one of Dominicans; the hospital is -under the care of the order of San Juan de Dios. The matris as well as -the other churches are built principally of wood, and have tiled roofs. -A custom prevails at the churches here on the days of particular -festivals, which I never observed in any other part of the colonies. Men -go up the belfries or steeples, with drums and trumpets, and accompany -the tune rung on the bells by striking them, as the Chinese do their -gongs, with hammers or stones, making a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> strange, but not altogether -disagreeable kind of music; it is certainly ridiculous, however, to hear -marches and dance tunes played in a church steeple, for the purpose of -calling the people to prayers.</p> - -<p>The greater part of the houses in the principal streets have an upper -story, where the inhabitants reside, the ground floor being occupied as -shops and warehouses. The upper stories have long balconies about four -or five feet wide, with canvass curtains, which are very useful, because -they form an agreeable shade against the scorching rays of the sun; and -when a little breeze springs up, one end of the roller is passed between -the ballustrades of the varanda, and the other end projects outward, so -that the breeze is thus caught, and a current of air is guided into the -apartments of the house, which at any time is very desirable; There are -no buildings in Guayaquil that particularly attract the attention of a -traveller, either by their size or beauty; but however the generality of -the houses are large, commodious, and have a very good appearance, -particularly those along the Malecon, which face the river; as they are -all built of wood, the risk of being burnt is very great. In the years -1692, 1707, and 1764 the city was nearly reduced to ashes; besides -which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> conflagrations it has suffered eleven other partial ones, which -destroyed many houses and much property. Notwithstanding the danger to -which the city is exposed, the dreadful examples which it has -experienced, and the easy means by which water may be procured in any -part of the town, for the prevention of general conflagrations, there is -not one engine for the extinction of fire, nor any regular body of -firemen.</p> - -<p>An indispensable part of the furniture of a house is the <i>hamaca</i>, -hammock; and I have frequently seen five or six in one room; they are -made of pita, agave thread, or a kind of straw, dyed of various colours; -they are so woven or matted, that they extend to a great width, and hold -two, three, or four persons. They are stretched across the rooms, and -along the sides and ends, and the inhabitants prefer them to any other -seat: indeed, they possess peculiar advantages, for, by being put in -motion, the current of air which is thus produced is refreshing; and the -motion prevents the possibility of the person being bitten by the -mosquitos, as the least draft or motion in the air obliges these -blood-suckers to seek for safety in some quiet corner.</p> - -<p>The population of Guayaquil amounts to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> about twenty thousand souls; the -inhabitants are composed of all the different classes which are found in -the various towns of South America, but there is an excess of mulattos. -A phenomenon presents itself here which greatly surprises all -foreigners; the complexion of some of the white natives is extremely -delicate, the lily and the rose are blended as enchantingly as on the -cheek of any European beauty, accompanied also with blue eyes and light -coloured hair; yet the climate is extremely hot, and the town is -surrounded with low swampy grounds. The ladies are not only remarkably -fair, but they have also very delicate regularly formed features; they -are tall genteel figures, have an elegant gait, walk well, and dance -gracefully; they are also very lively and witty in their conversation, -and on the whole the female society of Guayaquil exceeds that of any -other town in South America that I visited;—their private characters -being as free from levity as their public demeanour is from prudery. The -men are more enterprising in their commercial concerns, and the lower -classes are more industrious than the people generally are in the other -colonies; indeed every thing here bears the marks of exertion and -activity.</p> - -<p>The favourite amusements are bull fights,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> excursions on the water in -<i>balsas</i>, and dancing; of the latter all ranks appear passionately fond, -and in the evening the harp, the guitar, or the violin may be heard in -almost every street, and, contrary to what might be expected in a -country lying between the tropics, the reel, the waltz, and the country -dance are preferred to any other.</p> - -<p>The market of Guayaquil is but indifferently supplied with flesh meat, -although the horned cattle is well fed on the <i>savanas</i> and -<i>gamalotales</i>. Before the beef comes to market it is deprived of all its -fat, and cut into shreds about an inch thick, called <i>tasajo</i>; the fat -is melted and sold as lard for culinary purposes, but this however might -be easily remedied if the inhabitants would come to a resolution not to -buy the beef in such a mangled state. Very fine ribs of beef, called -chalonas, are salted and dried in the province of Monte Christe, and -brought to this market; they are very fat, and of an excellent flavour. -The quantity of salt used in curing them being small, the meat is not -too salt to be roasted. Mutton is a very scarce commodity, and seldom to -be had. Veal and lamb are unknown. Pork is tolerably good, and in -abundance. The tame poultry is good, but generally dear; and although -the woods<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> abound with game, and the rivers and creeks contain plenty of -water fowl, none of these are scarcely ever brought to market. The -supply of fish is tolerably abundant, but generally speaking it is not -good; the exceptions are the <i>lisa</i>, a kind of mullet, the <i>vieja</i>, old -wife, <i>ciego</i>, or blind fish, (about nine inches long, with only the -spinal bone) and a species of anchovies or sardinas. Oysters are very -plentiful, and the rock oysters though large are good, while those found -among the mangroves are very muddy.</p> - -<p>The bread made here is generally of an inferior quality, although the -flour is good, both that procured from Chile, and that from the -provinces of Quito and Cuenca. Rice, <i>garbansas</i>, a species of pea, -brought from Lambayeque, beans, quinua, lentils, and other pulse are -cheap; European vegetables are scarce, the yuca, camote, pumpkins, and -other gourds, are very plentiful, but the natives prefer the plantain to -any vegetable, using it baked, boiled or fried; green, half ripe, or -ripe, at every meal; and many foreigners after residing here a short -time become equally partial to it. The Guayaquileños are often ridiculed -by strangers on account of their predilection for plantains; they are -reported as having imitations of rolls<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> made of wood on their tables, -and their real plantains under the napkins. Some of the butter of this -province is well tasted, but the greater part used, as well as the -cheese, is brought from the <i>sierra</i>, mountains.</p> - -<p>The fruit market at Guayaquil is most abundant; here are enormous -melons, and water melons, which may be cut and tasted before they are -purchased; several varieties of the pine apple, and cashew nuts, which -resemble a small kidney growing at the end of an apple; thus, unlike -other fruit, the seed grows on the exterior of the apex; the very -astringent taste of this nut is destroyed by roasting it. The <i>anona</i>, -or <i>cabesa de negro</i>, is similar to the chirimoya, but it is neither so -large nor so delicate as that fruit: <i>badeas</i> are very large and highly -flavoured: the <i>jobos</i> are a fruit in size and shape like a large -damson, of a yellow colour, very juicy, with an agreeable acidity; when -green they make excellent tarts: the <i>mameis</i> are an egg-shaped fruit, -with a fibrous rind, covering a pulpy substance, of a delicately sweet -taste; each contains one or two large rough kidney-shaped seeds: -<i>marañones</i>, a fruit somewhat like a lemon; they have a smooth yellow -skin, striped with red; the pulp is very acid but agreeable, and is -sucked on account of its being very fibrous;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> in size and shape the seed -is like the cashew nut, but it is united to the fruit where this joins -the branch; the seed is more delicate than an almond, and it is used by -the confectioner as well as the fruit: <i>nisperos</i>, an egg shaped fruit -about four inches long; the rind is brown and rough; the pulp in some is -white, in others reddish, very sweet, and somewhat resembling the taste -of a delicious pear; each contains three long hard seeds—this fruit is -in season during the whole year: <i>zapotes</i>, a round fruit about five or -six inches in diameter, having a soft, downy, yellowish rind; the pulp -in some is a very deep yellow, in others it is white, in others almost -black, but the yellow kind is considered the best; they are very sweet, -but fibrous; in the centre is a large kernel, to which all the fibres -appear strongly attached. Oranges, limes, lemons, paltas, lucumas, -palillos, tamarinds, guavas, coconuts, and other intertropical fruits -are also in very great abundance.</p> - -<p>What may be termed a separate fruit market is the astonishing quantities -of plantains which are sold, because they constitute the principal -support of the lower classes, and are always to be found at the tables -of the higher. Large canoes and balsas, carrying five or six hundred -bunches of this fruit, arrive every day from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> different parts at the -city, and if the supply happen to be scanty for two or three days, the -arrival of canoes or balsas is hailed as a Godsend. Besides the quantity -of plantains consumed by the inhabitants, the country ships give rations -of them to their crews, instead of bread; and the natives feed their -poultry and pigs on the ripe ones. What adds greatly to the curiosity of -the market altogether, is the originality of the sight; it is -principally held on board the numberless canoes and balsas which arrive -from the country, and which remain close to the river side till they -have delivered their cargoes.</p> - -<p>The winter season, which commences here in the month of December, and -continues till the latter end of April, is very disagreeable, owing to -the heat, the constant want of a refreshing wind, the unceasing rains, -the frequent thunder storms, and the abundance of troublesome insects, -all of which seem to combine to incommode the human species; the -natives, however, appear to withstand the joint attack with wonderful -composure. During the remaining eight months of the year, which is -called the summer, the climate is not oppressive; a breeze from the -south-west, called the <i>chandui</i>, because it comes over a mountain of -this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> name, generally sets in about noon, and continues to blow till -five or six o'clock the following morning. The natives may be seen about -noon looking out for the breeze, and on the first appearance of it the -rollers of the blinds are placed between the ballustrades of the -varandas to catch it: along the Malecon, when it is observed to ripple -the water in the river, a general salutation often takes place, and -"yonder comes the chandui," may be heard on every side. During the -summer all kinds of provisions and fruit are abundant, and of a better -quality, and the city is then very healthy; but during the winter -intermittent fevers, dysenteries, and diseases of the eyes, are very -common, and often prove fatal.</p> - -<p>Strangers at Guayaquil are much annoyed by the troublesome insects, as -well as the most poisonous reptiles, which abound there. During the -rainy months the mosquitos appear in such swarms, that it is impossible -to avoid them; and, besides the bite, the continued humming noise which -they make prevents a person, unaccustomed to such music, from sleeping, -although his bed may be furnished with curtains to protect him against -their bite. Another small insect, called <i>jejen</i>, is extremely -troublesome: it is so diminutive, that it can pass<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> the bed-curtains, -unless they be made of some close fine material; and its bite causes a -greater degree of irritation than that of the mosquito. Ants creep about -the houses in such prodigious numbers, that it is almost impossible to -prevent them from mixing with the victuals, particularly sweetmeats; and -it is no uncommon thing, when you take off the crust of a tart, or open -ajar of preserves, to find that the whole has been consumed by these -insects, and the despoilers in complete possession of the cup or jar. I -have frequently seen a cold fowl brought to the table, and on carving it -the ants would sally forth in droves, and run all over the table; even -the beds are invaded by them, and that person would smart for it who -should unwarily lay himself down, without the necessary precaution of -well examining the premises.</p> - -<p>Another very small insect, called the <i>comejen</i>, although not -troublesome in the same manner as the foregoing, is more so in other -respects. Its destructive qualities are so active, that in the space of -one night it will penetrate the hardest wood, or any other similar -substance. I have been assured, that in the same space of time, it has -been known to perforate a bale of paper, passing quite through -twenty-four reams. This insect builds its nest under the eaves of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> the -houses, of a glutinous clay, similar to that used by the swallows in the -fabrication of their nests; but the comejen continues his for several -yards in length. The greatest care is necessary to prevent their -entering a store or any such place, where their depredations would cause -a considerable decrease in the value of the contents. The natives -sometimes daub their nests with tar, which destroys the whole swarm; for -if disturbed, they will divide into different Societies, and each will -separately search for a convenient place in which to form a new one.</p> - -<p>In the archives of Quito, there is a curious royal decree of Carlos III. -respecting this insect. A number of cases of gun-flints had been sent to -Panama from Spain, for the purpose of being forwarded to Lima; but their -non-arrival at this place caused the Viceroy to repeat his request to -the court for the supply; this produced an investigation—the flints -were traced to Panama, and the governor was ordered to account for them. -In his answer to the minister, he stated, that the comejen had destroyed -the cases in the royal magazine. The minister being ignorant of what the -comejen was, an order was issued under the royal seal, commanding the -governor of Panama to apprehend the comejen—to form a summary process<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> -on the crimes which he had committed, then to send the prisoner and -documents, with the necessary guard, in custody to Spain, that he might -be dealt with according to the extent of his criminality!</p> - -<p>The <i>nigua</i>, called <i>piqui</i> in Lima and other parts of Peru, is a -diminutive insect, in appearance like a small flea. They generally -introduce themselves under the cuticle of the feet, which causes a -slight itching: when they have thus established their residence, they -deposit a great number of eggs, the whole increasing to the size of a -pea; if not carefully taken out they continue to breed, and, corroding -the neighbouring parts, they produce malignant ulcers, which sometimes -terminate in gangrene. The greatest care is necessary in taking out -these diminutive but disagreeable insects; no part should be left -behind, and the whole of the bag which contains the ovii should be -extracted; when they have been suffered to remain several days they -occasion great pain. Negroes are most troubled with them, on account of -their going barefoot, and of their inattention to cleanliness.</p> - -<p>The reptiles that frequent the houses in Guayaquil are the <i>alacran</i>, -which in shape resembles a lobster: the body is about an inch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> long, and -the tail, which has nine joints, is of the same length; the end of the -tail is armed with a small hooked instrument, with which the animal can -inflict a sting so poisonous, that it causes violent pain in the part -affected; considerable degree of fever, excessive thirst, hardness of -the tongue, and sometimes delirium ensues; but all the effects generally -cease within twenty-four hours. The remedy usually applied is -cauterizing the part with a lighted segar.</p> - -<p>The <i>ciento pies</i> are from three to six inches long; they have thirty -articulations or joints, and sixty feet; they are covered with small -scales of a brownish hue, and have organs suited for biting, both at the -head and at the tail, either of which cause violent pain, and a -considerable degree of fever. The remedy used by the natives is the same -as for the bite of the alacran.</p> - -<p>Many <i>salamanquecas</i>, small chameleons, run about the houses, at which -the natives are very much alarmed, fancying that their scratch is -mortal; and certainly it must be fancy, for there is no record of any -person having been scratched by them. On account of the insects and -reptiles, and during the rainy season, when a few snakes introduce -themselves into the houses, all the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> inhabitants smoke segars, being -persuaded that the smoke of tobacco drives them away; so that even the -females and the children become habituated to the use of this herb, -which in Guayaquil is cheap, and of a good quality.</p> - -<p>The most important part of Guayaquil is the dock yard; it produces -employment for a great number of mechanics, promotes labour, and -consequently independence in a considerable portion of the inhabitants. -It also promotes the circulation of money in the neighbourhood, by -encouraging the consumption of wood, which is brought from the -surrounding country; and the effect caused by giving, through the medium -of labour, the greatest possible value to the natural produce of the -country is no where so visible as in this city, heightened undoubtedly -by the contrast to be met with in the other colonial districts. Here the -working mechanic is sure of employment; he can calculate with certainty -on his earnings, and by being indispensably necessary he acquires a -personal independence, totally unknown where labour is scarce, or -population excessive.</p> - -<p>Some of the vessels built here have been very much admired by foreigners -capable of appreciating their architectural merits; and particularly -schooners of a hundred and fifty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> or two hundred tons burthen. The -largest ship ever built in this dock yard was the San Salvador, of seven -hundred tons; but vessels of from three to five hundred tons are very -common. The master ship builder is a mulatto, a native of Guayaquil, as -well as the masters caulker and rigger. Excepting the wood, all the -other materials are procured from Europe; thus the most extensive market -for iron, sheet copper, and all kinds of naval stores, is furnished at -Guayaquil.</p> - -<p>Very great economical improvements might undoubtedly be made in this -yard, and particularly, in the timber. A foreign carpenter would be much -surprised to see a man take a solid log of wood, and chalk out a curved -plank for the bow or stern of a boat, and cut it with an axe, forming -but one plank out of each log, and this by no means so durable as a -straight plank would be when curved by artificial means: this is -observable in the durability of the wood in the different parts of their -boats. The introduction of sawing mills here would be of the greatest -importance, as well as at Talcahuano, in Chile, and would amply repay -the speculator who should establish them. The rise and fall of the tide -would furnish, at very little expence, the necessary power for the -machinery. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> sum paid for the sawing of a single plank, twelve inches -broad and sixteen or eighteen feet long, is six reals, or three-quarters -of a dollar: this will convey an idea of the importance of such an -establishment as the one just mentioned. At present (1824) the -objections that would formerly have been started during the domination -of the Spaniards necessarily disappear, not so much perhaps from an -increase of knowledge as from an increase of work, and a diminution of -workmen; this being the unavoidable result of the war in Peru, and that -the consequence of the flattering prospect which the emancipation of the -colonies now presents. Many other improvements which are generally -adopted in the English arsenals would be found of vast importance in the -ship yard at Guayaquil; which, from its situation, must ever remain the -principal station for ship building on the shores of the Pacific.</p> - -<p>The balsa is one of the most early specimens of the art of -ship-building, if simplicity of construction can warrant the assertion -in general terms; it certainly, however, was the only large vehicle in -possession of the natives when the Spaniards arrived in this part of the -New World. Of the conveniency of this rude vessel, both Asara and Acosta -speak, when Orellana<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> transferred the city of Guayaquil from the bay of -Charapota, near to where the town of Monte Christi now stands, to the -western shores of the river, because it served to transport his -soldiers, auxiliaries, and stores, when the indians burnt that town in -1537.</p> - -<p>The balsa is formed by laying together five, seven, or more large trunks -of the <i>palo de balsa</i> or <i>ceibo</i>, which is so porous and light, that a -man can carry a log thirty feet long and 12 inches in diameter; pieces -of cedar, about six inches square, or large canes, are next laid -crossway upon these, and the whole are tied together with the tough -pliant stems of a creeping plant, called <i>bejuco</i>; split canes are -afterwards laid along these rafters, to form what may be termed the deck -of the balsa. Instead of a mast, the sail is hoisted on two poles, or -sheers, of mangrove wood, inclining a little forward, being supported by -two backstays. The sail is a large square lugsail, with halyards and -braces. For propelling the balsa along during a calm, the natives use a -long paddle, broad at the lower extremity; they let this fall -perpendicularly at the stern of the balsa, and then drag the end -forwards, by which means the broad end of the paddle sweeps through the -water as it rises, and impels the balsa forward, though very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> slowly. -The rudder is formed of one of these paddles lashed astern, and is -managed by one or two men; besides which they have several boards, each -three or four yards long and two feet broad, called <i>guaras</i>; these they -insert between the main or central logs, and allow them to dip more or -less into the water: these boards serve for a keel, and prevent the -balsa from upsetting or making much lee-way. By raising or lowering -these boards in different parts of the balsa, the natives can perform on -their raft all the manœuvres of a regularly built and well rigged -vessel, an invention which I believe is not generally known, and the -utility of which might be very great in cases of shipwreck, where the -seamen have to betake themselves to rafts, without being acquainted with -so easy a method of steering them, and of preventing them from -capsizing.</p> - -<p>All the balsas have a small shed built on them, which serves the -purposes of a cabin; they are formed of canes, and the roof is covered -with palm leaves, or those called <i>vijao</i>, which are similar in shape to -those of the banana, but not so liable to break or split. Some of the -large balsas have a comfortable house built on them, composed of four, -five, or more rooms; the sides and roof being lined with chintz, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> -mats on the floors; and are most comfortable conveyances for passengers -or parties of pleasure.</p> - -<p>The balsas are used in the river for loading and unloading the vessels, -for carrying the produce of the country from one part to another; also -as stages for careening ships, and for heaving them down, besides many -other similar purposes: with them also the natives perform voyages to -Paita, Sechura, Pacasmayo, and even Huanchaco; beating up against the -wind and current a distance of four degrees of latitude, having on board -five or six hundred quintals of goods as a cargo, besides a crew of -indians and their provisions.</p> - -<p>The canoes of Guayaquil are, although unornamented, very handsomely -constructed; they are generally made of cedar, <i>huachapeli</i>, or <i>ceibo</i>: -some of them are upwards of twenty feet long, and three feet wide. A -large canoe built upon with two or three rows of planks is called a -<i>chata</i>, and is used for bringing down the cocoa and other productions -from the plantations; where, owing to the narrowness of the creeks, and -the many turns and windings, the balsas are useless: these also have a -lugsail and a jib.</p> - -<p>Many persons have been surprised at not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> finding the Guayaquil merchants -possessed of very large capitals: this may be attributed to various -causes; the repeated fires have destroyed considerable stocks of -merchandize, and as there are no insurance companies, the whole loss has -fallen on the individual proprietors. The merchants are also generally -supplied with European manufactures from the Lima and Panama markets, -which increases the price of the commodity; and the decrease in the -consumption is necessarily in the inverse ratio of the price. Goods -manufactured in the neighbouring provinces are commonly brought to -market by the manufacturers themselves, from whom the inhabitants -purchase them at high prices. The produce of the province is generally -purchased by commission from Peru and Mexico, so that the merchants of -Guayaquil are in some degree, only brokers. Small speculations and -activity will insure to any one most excellent profits, and hence the -considerable number of persons in this city who enjoy a comfortable -independence; and probably this is another objection to the amassing of -large fortunes by commerce.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Productions of the Province of Guayaquil, -Cocoa....cultivation....Harvest....Tobacco....Timber....Salt....Cattle....Minor -Articles of Trade....<i>Turbines</i> found at Santa Elena....Large -Bones, &c....Animals, <i>Perico</i>, -<i>Ligero</i>....Monkeys....<i>Iguanas</i>....Toucanes....<i>Trompeteros</i>....Snakes....Curiquinqui, -Snake-eater....<i>Huaco</i>, Antidote for the Bite of -Snakes....<i>Lagartos</i>, Alligators, Description of....Methods of -Killing....Fishermen....Mineral Productions.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The following account of the productions of the province of Guayaquil is -partly from my own observation, and partly from statements given to me -by some very respectable natives, on whose veracity I could rely.</p> - -<p>The most important production of this rich part of South America, as an -article of exportation, is the cocoa, the utility and delicacy of which, -as an article of food, needs no other encomium than that Linnæus calls -it <i>Theobroma</i>, the beverage of the Gods. The <i>cacao</i>, so called by the -Indians, and which name it still retains in America, is cultivated here -to a very great extent, and considerable profit; but, like many other -articles, it requires greater care to render it abundantly productive -than what it usually<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> receives. It is sometimes sown in nurseries, on a -good soil, where it can be irrigated and shaded from the sun till the -plants are about two feet high; at which time they are fit for -transplanting; but it is more frequently sown where the plants are to -remain. For this purpose the ground is first prepared by clearing away -the wood, which is allowed to dry and is then burnt, excepting some -lofty trees, which are left to form a shade over the cacao trees; for -this, unlike other fruit trees, must be protected against the rays of -the sun during every period of its existence. The ground is then divided -into compartments, by cutting trenches for the purpose of draining it -during the rainy seasons. The cacao beans, fresh from the ripe pod, are -laid on the ground in pairs, fourteen or fifteen feet asunder; these are -very slightly covered with earth, and a folded leaf of plantain laid -over them to preserve the moisture, or prevent the heavy rains from -destroying the young plants. If the two beans germinate, the weaker -plant is cut down, when both have grown to that height which allows the -planter an opportunity of judging of their strength. At the time that -the cacao is planted, bananas, or plantains, are also sown, ranges of -the young plants being placed between those of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> the cacao, for the -purpose of procuring a shade for the shrubs; and it is calculated that -on an average the crop of plantains will defray the whole expence of the -plantation.</p> - -<p>Until the cacao tree has grown to the height of four feet it is pruned -to the stem, and then allowed to throw out three or four branches, at -equal distances, from which the leaves are stripped, to prevent them -from drooping; all suckers are also removed, and the tree grows to the -height of eighteen or twenty feet.</p> - -<p>When the cacao tree begins to bear, which is commonly the third year -after planting, then as well as before that period, it is assaulted by -several enemies of the caterpillar species; one of this tribe is four -inches long, and one in circumference round the body; it is belted -alternately with black and pale yellow stripes; these and all others are -carefully sought for and killed. When the tree begins to bear fruit, the -cavias, monkeys, squirrels, and the parrots, commit the greatest -depredations, and nothing but fire-arms will drive them away; they skip -and fly from tree to tree, and do more damage by breaking the branches, -than if they were allowed to remain and feed quietly on the fruit; some -of the monkey tribes are so impudent, that they will perch themselves on -the branches, break off the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> ends or the fruit, and throw them at the -person who attempts to disturb them.</p> - -<p>The flower of the cacao is white; it is attached by a short stem to the -larger branches, or to the trunk of the tree; the pod which contains the -beans is shaped like a melon, about three inches long; when ripe it is -of a yellow colour; from twenty to thirty beans are closely imbedded in -five rows in each pod, in a soft, moist, downy substance, beautifully -white, and of a very agreeable subacid taste.</p> - -<p>The two principal harvests of the cacao are in June and December, but -many of the planters prefer gathering the pods during the whole year, -whenever they are in a state of maturity. When the pods are gathered -from the trees, they are carried in large baskets to a place properly -prepared by cleaning it, and laid on plantain leaves spread for this -purpose; those who are appointed to separate the beans from the pods, -take a small knife-shaped instrument, of bone or hard wood, and make two -or more incisions through the rind, and then throw them to others, who -shake out the beans. These are allowed to remain covered with plantain -leaves, for three or four days, but not more, when they are spread out -to dry; and when they are perfectly so, they are carried to some place -prepared<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> to receive them, where the greatest care is necessary to -preserve them from becoming wet, or from fermenting, which is the case -if they be not completely dry when housed. A small stove would often -save a cacao grower many thousand dollars, particularly in the December -harvest, when the rains prevail.</p> - -<p>The cacao plantations generally abound with snakes; for the cutting down -of the brushwood, and the subsequent care requisite to prevent it from -growing and injuring the plants, allow the rays of the sun to penetrate -in many places, and these dangerous reptiles resort to them for the -purpose of basking in the sun, of which they appear very fond. At night -the enormous quantity of fire-flies, <i>lucernas</i>, which fly about in all -directions, is truly beautiful, and their united light is sometimes so -great, as to allow a person to see his way along a narrow path.</p> - -<p>On an average the quantity of cacao harvested in the province of -Guayaquil is six hundred thousand <i>fanegas</i>, of three bushels each; it -sometimes sells at seven dollars the fanega. The cacao of Guayaquil is -of an inferior quality, the bean is large compared to that of Carraccas, -and three times the size of the best cacao, which is that of Soconusco; -it is much drier than either of these, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>consequently much lighter, -and has a more bitter taste; however, the demand for it was never below -the quantity produced, and ships from Callao to Spain generally dropped -down to Guayaquil to take in cargoes of it; besides the annual supply to -Peru, Chile, and Mexico. The cacao produced in the lieutenancy of -Machala is considered the best; but I have not the least doubt, that if -due attention were paid to the cultivation and harvesting, such as is -bestowed in England on vegetables of minor importance, the cacao of -Guayaquil would both increase in quantity and improve in quality. No -soil or climate can be better suited to its growth than those of this -province, for it requires heat in this, and moisture in that. At present -(1824) the political changes have opened a fair field to the investment -of British capital, and the exertions of British industry in this rich -and fertile province; in which I hope to see both employed and -prospering, not only in commercial intercourse, but in mechanical and -agricultural improvements.</p> - -<p>Very large plantations of tobacco are cultivated in this province, -particularly in the department of Daule and Puerto Viejo; it is packed -in the leaf, and supplies the interior provinces, Peru and Chile; its -quality is mild<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> and good, and although it is a royal monopoly, the King -paying only one and a half real, three-sixteenths of a dollar, per -pound, it employs many of the natives, and pays them moderately well.</p> - -<p>Timber is another article of commerce, large quantities being carried to -Peru, besides the great consumption of it here in the dock yard: the -kinds of timber used in ship-building are <i>roble</i>, a kind of oak, -<i>guachapeli</i>, <i>balsamo</i>, cedar, <i>maria</i>, <i>huarango</i>, and <i>piñuela</i>; in -addition to which varieties, there are, for other purposes, saffron, -laurel, negro, <i>caoba</i>, a kind of mahogany, ebony, <i>cascol</i>, <i>guayacan</i>, -<i>colorado</i>, <i>guayabo</i>, <i>mangle</i>, <i>canelo</i>, and others of minor -importance.</p> - -<p>Salt is another branch of commerce of considerable consequence; it is -produced at the Punta de Santa Elena, and carried to Quito, Cuenca, -Loxa, as well as to every part of the provinces subject to these -capitals; and it is a source of great wealth to this province.</p> - -<p>The trade in horned cattle, mules, and horses, of which there is an -excess in the savanas of Guayaquil, is extensive; they are driven into -the interior, where they find a good market, and amply repay the -breeder. The province of Guayaquil also produces many articles of less -moment, but all contributing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> to enrich its inhabitants; some of these -are bees wax, honey, small quantities of excellent coffee, rice, -<i>ajonjoli</i>, cotton, bark for tanning, <i>vainilla</i>, coconuts, copal gum, -sarsaparilla, sassafras, anime balsam, cassiafistula, caraña gum, and -<i>cascol</i>, a kind of black sealing wax; large quantities of <i>pita</i>, -thread, are spun also from the agave Americana, and many thousands of -hats are made annually by the indians in the department of Xipixapa, of -a fine white rush, some of which sell for upwards of twenty dollars -each.</p> - -<p>The small shell-fish found on the rocks near to Santa Elena are worthy -of notice, as I believe them to be the true Turbines. They are about the -size of a hazel nut, shaped like a snail, and by different operations -the beautiful purple dye is obtained from them. Some prick the fish with -a needle or cactus thorn, and then press it down into the shell till a -small quantity of milky juice appears, into which a portion of cotton is -dipped; it is put into an earthen jar or cup, and the fish is placed -again on the rock: others take the fish out of the shell, and lay it on -their hands; they press it with a knife from the head towards the tail -or the slender part, which becomes filled with the liquid, and is cut -off, and cotton is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> applied to absorb the moisture, otherwise thread is -passed through it. When the cotton is soaked in the liquor, and a -sufficient quantity is obtained, it is mixed with as much dry cotton as -it will conveniently make damp, the cotton being well carded or teased; -it is afterwards dried and spun; when thread is used it is only drawn -through the liquor and dried. The colour is at first a pale yellow, it -subsequently changes to a greenish hue, and in the course of a few hours -it acquires the beautiful purple tinge so much admired by the ancients, -and which no future washing or exposure to the air can alter. The thread -dyed by the liquid procured from this small fish is often sold in -Guayaquil, and is called <i>caracolillo</i>, from <i>caracol</i>, a snail.</p> - -<p>At the Punta de Santa Elena, enormous remains of unknown animals have -been discovered, which M. de Humboldt says were cetaceous; and Ulloa, -agreeing with the popular opinion here, calls them the remains of -giants, because the indians are in possession of a tradition, that men -of a colossal stature once landed at this point. I saw a grinder in the -possession of Don Jose Merino, at Guayaquil, which weighed five pounds -three ounces, and the enamel was spotted like the female tortoise shell.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span></p><p>The jaguar is an inhabitant, and may be justly stiled the lord of the -forest; it is called by the natives <i>tigre</i>, tiger, and is in size and -fierceness almost equal to the oriental tiger; the fur is short, thick, -and glossy, the colour is a bright yellow, marked along the spine with a -chain of occelated or eye-shaped spots, like black rings, having a black -spot in the centre of each; along the sides are four chains of rings, -but these are rather oval than round, each of them generally containing -two spots; however along the sides the rings are not so regular as along -the back, indeed the rings often appear to be formed of three or four -oblong spots, including two in the centre; the belly is white, with -transverse black stripes. The face and sides of the neck are very -thickly studded with black spots. The fur of the tail is not glossy; on -the upper part the pattern is a zig-zag, and not spotted like the body.</p> - -<p>The jaguar preys on the cattle in the savanas, lurking about and -securing a bullock or young horse; after making a hearty meal he retires -to a considerable distance, and never returns to the same place within a -month, being suspicious perhaps of being detected and punished. Pressed -by hunger, he has been known to attack human beings, and even to loiter -about at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> night, waiting for an opportunity to seize on any one who may -leave the house; having once tasted human flesh, he becomes either more -daring, or averse to other food; but when it is known that a tiger has -destroyed any person, the cause is made a common one, and all the people -in the neighbourhood join and pursue the enemy till they kill it.</p> - -<p>In the woods there is found a species of sloth, called by the natives -<i>perico ligero</i>, nimble peter; it is also called ahi, probably from the -pitiful noise which it makes. I have seen it several times, but the -following description of it was given to me by Dr. Hurtado, of -Guayaquil:—</p> - -<p>"The snout short, forehead high, eyes black, almost covered with long -black eyelashes, no incisors in the under jaw, four legs, ill formed, -thighs ill-shaped and clumsy, hind legs short and thick, the toes -united, having three long curved claws on the hind and fore feet, -twenty-eight ribs, three stomachs, very short intestines, only one -aperture for the emission of excrements, like birds; very short tail, -and the whole length of the body between four and five feet."</p> - -<p>This animal in appearance is the very picture of misery; it is covered -with long shaggy hair<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> resembling dried grass; its motion is very slow, -and at each step it howls most hideously, and scarcely walks ten yards -in as many hours. It feeds on leaves and the buds of trees, and when it -has once gained the top of a tree it will remain there as long as a leaf -is to be procured, and even for some time afterwards, crying and -howling, till hunger obliges it to search for food; it then forms itself -into a round lump and drops from the tree upon the ground, as if devoid -of life. The indians sometimes kill and eat it, and if fat they relish -the flesh, which they say is very savoury; but I never had an -opportunity of tasting it.</p> - -<p>Many deer, <i>venados</i>, similar to those of Peru, some cavias, and four -varieties of the monkey, are also found in the woods; of these, two -species when erect stand four feet high; the one is completely black, -with very long arms, hence called <i>brasilargo</i>, and is excellent eating; -the other has a black back and brown belly, and is called <i>mongon</i>; the -other two kinds are when erect about eighteen inches high; the one is of -a yellow brown colour, and the other is black with a white face: all the -four species have long tails. Many <i>iguanas</i> are met with in different -parts of the province; the body is about a foot long, with a row of -points along the back like the fins of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> fish, the head has a crest -like that of the dunghill cock; the mouth is similar to the beak of a -parrot, the bite of which is very severe, as it divides almost every -thing that comes between its jaws; the legs are short, and the toes are -partly connected by a membrane, like the feet of some water-fowl; the -tail is very slender and as long as the body, having very much the -appearance of a snake; by whipping with it when vexed it can inflict a -very severe wound; its colour is green and yellow, and the natives often -say, that if it had wings it would be the devil himself. They are -oviparous, and the female lays from twenty to thirty eggs at one time: -these are white, and covered with a membrane instead of a shell, and are -most delicate eating. The flesh of the animal too is whiter and more -savoury than that of the barn door fowl. They are chiefly found on the -branches of trees, and when pursued on the ground will betake themselves -to their burrows or to the water.</p> - -<p>Among the feathered tribe there are many beautiful parrots, parroquets, -and papagayos; the toucan, called here <i>dios te dé</i>, is common in the -woods, particularly in the neighbourhood of the banana plantations, on -the ripe fruit of which it feeds; the back, wings, and tail, are black, -the breast a beautiful bright yellow, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> the beak, which is as long as -the body of the bird, is yellow on the upper side, and the rest brown; -the tongue is long, slender and serrated; on the whole the appearance of -the bird is very awkward, owing to the immense size of the beak.</p> - -<p>Here are many wild turkeys, some of which are delicate eating; -<i>huacharacas</i>, a species of pheasant, and <i>poujis</i>, equally or more -delicate; the latter are as large as our turkeys; the male is black, -with a high crest of beautiful black and white feathers on its head; the -hen is brown, spotted with black, having a crest or topping like the -male, which it spreads in the form of a fan when vexed, and then allows -it to fall backward on the neck.</p> - -<p>The <i>trompetero</i> is a native of this province, and is often -domesticated, as well as the toucan, poujis, and several different kinds -of parrots; the trompetero is about the size of a barn door fowl, and -entirely black, excepting a few long yellow feathers on the neck; it -becomes very tame, and will follow the people to whom it belongs, making -a noise somewhat like the sound of a trumpet, which, according to the -general opinion, proceeds from the anus; the sound however is so varied -and modulated, that it sometimes appears to proceed from one part<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> and -sometimes from another. On the arrival of a stranger it will immediately -parade the room, and receive him with a musical welcome.</p> - -<p>Here are also several varieties of pigeons and other small birds, -particularly humming birds; these beautiful flutterers fly in all -directions, sipping the honey from the flowers, especially those of the -plantain and the banana, which are their favourites, and in which they -are often completely hidden while feeding on their nectareous sweets. -The small birds are more worthy of admiration for the brilliancy of -their plumage than for the sweetness of their notes; indeed very few of -them ever sing; and the continued chattering of the parrots is very -disagreeable. The most useful bird here is the gallinaso, it may be -called the public scavenger, and it is protected by the municipal law, -which imposes a fine of five dollars on any person who kills one of -them.</p> - -<p>Numerous snakes infest the whole of the province of Guayaquil, and -individuals are often bitten by them; but the natives are possessed of -remedies, and against the poison of some, of specific antidotes. They -make the patient drink a considerable quantity of olive oil, scarify -round the wound, and apply pieces of calcined stag's horn; but the -safest remedy known among the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> natives is the leaves of a creeper called -<i>huaco</i>, which growls in the woods. The leaves are bruised to the -consistency of paste, which is made into small cakes, each about the -size of half a crown, and then dried in the shade. When a person is -bitten, he puts one of these small cakes in his mouth, and chews it till -the bitter taste is gone, at the same time swallowing his saliva; he is -then bathed, the chewed herb is taken from his mouth and bound over the -wound, and he recovers. The visible effects are a copious perspiration. -When at Esmeraldas I was bitten in the hand by a coral snake, the bite -of which is considered mortal if not immediately cured; the pain which I -felt was a violent burning near the wound; it gradually spread over the -part affected, accompanied with a peculiar sensation, which appeared as -if a large weight were hanging to my hand, and which prevented me from -raising it. A native who was with me having observed what had happened, -immediately gave me a cake of the huaco herb, ordered me to chew it, and -began to press my hand, squeezing the wound; in about five minutes the -pain abated, and the bitter taste of the herb was gone. I bathed in the -river, and laid myself down in a canoe, where I was covered with a -poncho and taken to my home, which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> was about four miles from the spot -where the accident happened. During the time that I remained in the -canoe I perspired most profusely, and after retiring to my bed, more so; -the pain in my hand was very much allayed, but I felt a general numbness -and great debility, accompanied with nausea; I drank a large glass of -almond milk, <i>orchata</i>, and slept about an hour; on waking I found -myself feverish, my tongue parched and hard, and for four days I was -very ill. A poultice of boiled pumpkin was continually kept on my hand, -and the wound began to suppurate on the fourth day, when my health was -gradually restored. All this time I was very apprehensive of danger, -although the natives assured me that as twenty-four hours had elapsed -since the bite, I was perfectly safe. For more than a fortnight I felt -the effects of the poisonous fangs of the reptile, which the natives had -killed almost immediately after it had wounded me, and brought it to my -house. I never saw the huaco herb growing, but I have seen it when -brought from the woods; the leaves are about two and a half inches long -and half an inch broad; the upper surface is of a dark green, with -purple veins running along it, of a glossy appearance and solid texture; -the under side is of an obscure purple hue; the leaves grow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> singly, two -being placed opposite to each other on the stem, which is slender, hard, -and ribbed, and of a bluish colour. I never saw the flower, and the -natives when I asked them concerning it, told me that it never did -flower, at least that they had never observed any flowers on the plant.</p> - -<p>Fortunately, a bird at Guayaquil called <i>quiriquinqui</i>, at Esmeraldas -and on the coast of Choco, <i>huaco</i>, and at Quito, <i>beteado de oro</i>, is a -great enemy to the snakes, and other venomous reptiles and insects, on -which it feeds. It is a species of vulture, about the size of a hen, and -is easily domesticated; its colour is a bright brown, variegated with -stains of pale yellow. It flies about the woods, or runs along the -savanas in quest of its food, and attacks the snakes, opposing its wing -to them as a shield; when the animal is somewhat exhausted by striking -at the bird, it seizes the reptile near the head, and biting it rises on -its wings, and afterwards alights, and observes if it be dead; if not, -it again bites it, and sometimes soaring aloft with it lets it fall, and -immediately drops down after it; when dead the bird devours it. The -natives affirm, that to this bird they owe the discovery of the herb -which they call huaco; they observed that the bird, after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> fighting with -a snake, would sometimes search for the herb and eat it; hence they -supposed it to be an antidote for the poison, which experience has -proved to be correct.</p> - -<p>The poisonous snakes found here are the <i>bejuco</i>, about two feet long, -very slender, and of a brown colour, having the appearance of a small -cane; the <i>cascabel</i>, one of the varieties of the rattle snake; it is -sometimes five feet long, and spotted with white and yellow; the coral, -of a very beautiful appearance, owing to its bright colours, which are a -deep red, bright yellow, and black, in alternate belts; the head is very -flat, and although the animal is small, seldom exceeding two feet in -length, its bite is considered of the most poisonous kind, and if not -directly cured generally proves mortal in a few hours; the effects are -an immediate swelling, and afterwards an exudation of blood from every -part of the body, accompanied with the most agonizing pain, till death -relieves the wretch from the anguish he endures. Don Pedro Figueroa, to -whose attention I owed my cure, assured me, that he once saw the corpse -of a negro who died of the bite of the coral snake, and that it had -become completely white. The <i>exis</i> is so called on account of the marks -along the back, from the head to the extremity<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> of the tail; its length -is from three to four feet, head flat, colour dark brown, with white -marks like XX along the back. This snake is most active and poisonous, -and is much dreaded. The <i>sierpe volante</i> is very dangerous; it is about -eighteen inches long, very slender, of a dark brown colour, and can -spring to a great distance to inflict its poisonous wound; hence the -natives call it the flying serpent. Here are several kinds of harmless -snakes, which the natives never kill, as they are great enemies of the -poisonous ones; I once saw one of these, called the <i>sobre cama</i>, -devouring an exis larger than itself.</p> - -<p>The river of Guayaquil and the creeks that empty themselves into it, -abound with alligators, <i>lagartos</i>, or <i>caimanes</i>, so much so, that on -the banks where they lie basking in the sun they appear like logs of -wood thrown up by the tide, and are so unapprehensive of danger, that a -canoe or boat may pass very near to them without their being disturbed; -when basking in this manner they keep their enormous mouths open, and -owing to the colour of the fleshy substance on the inside of the lower -jaw, as well as to a musky scent which accompanies their breath, great -numbers of flies are allured to enter the mouth, the upper jaw of -which,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> when a sufficient number are collected, suddenly falls down, and -the deluded insects are swallowed.</p> - -<p>The alligator is an oviparous animal; the female deposits her eggs in -the sand, laying in the course of one or two days from eighty to a -hundred; they are much larger than those of a goose, and much thicker; -they are covered with a very tenacious white membrane, and are often -eaten by the indians, who when they take them first open a small hole in -the larger end, and place the egg in the sand with the hole downward; by -this means a peculiarly disagreeable musky taste is destroyed; they -afterwards cook them in the same manner as other eggs. I have tasted -them, and found nothing disagreeable, except their being very tough. -After depositing her eggs the female covers them with sand, and then -rolls herself over them, and continues rolling to the water side, as if -to prevent the spot being found where she has left her deposit; but the -vigilant gallinasos are generally on the alert at this season, and when -they have found the nest, destroy the whole of them. The people who live -near the sides of the river train their dogs to search for the eggs, as -well as to destroy them; and thus thousands are annually broken.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span></p><p>When instinct informs the alligator that the time of ovation is -completed, both the male and female go to the nest, and if undisturbed -the female immediately uncovers the eggs, and carefully breaks them; the -young brood begin to run about, and the watchful gallinasos prey upon -them, while the male alligator, who appears to have come for no other -purpose, devours all that he possibly can; those that can mount on the -neck and back of the female are safe, unless they happen to fall off, or -cannot swim, in which cases she devours them. Thus nature has prepared a -destruction for these dangerous animals, which would otherwise be as -numerous as flies, and become the absolute proprietors of the -surrounding country; even at present, notwithstanding the comparatively -few that escape, their number is almost incredible.</p> - -<p>I have frequently seen the lagartos eighteen or twenty feet long. They -feed principally on fish, which they catch in the rivers, and are known -sometimes to go in a company of ten or twelve to the mouths of the small -rivers and creeks, where two or three ascend while the tide is high, -leaving the rest at the mouth; when the tide has fallen, one party -besets the mouth of the creek, while the other swims down<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> the stream, -flapping their tails, and driving the fish into the very jaws of their -devourers, which catch them, and lift their heads out of the water to -swallow them.</p> - -<p>When these voracious creatures cannot procure a sufficient quantity of -fish to satisfy their hunger, they betake themselves to the savanas, -where they destroy the calves and foals, lurking about during the day, -and seizing their prey when asleep at night, which they drag to the -water side, and there devour it. The cattle and the dogs appear sensible -of their danger when they go to the rivers to drink, and will howl and -bark until they have attracted the attention of the lagartos at one -place, and then drop back and run to another, where they drink in a -hurry, and immediately leave the water side; otherwise, as has been the -case, an alligator would seize on them by the nose, drag them under the -water, and drown and eat them.</p> - -<p>When the lagarto has once tasted the flesh of animals it will almost -abandon the fish, and reside principally ashore. I crossed the large -plain of Babaoyo, where I saw a living one, buried, except the head, in -the clay, beside the remains of several dead ones. On inquiring how they -came there, the <i>montubios</i>, a name<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> given here to the peasantry, told -me, that when the rains fall in the mountains the great part of this -savana is inundated, at which time the lagartos prowl about in search of -the cattle remaining on the small islands that are then formed; and when -the waters retire they are left embedded in the clay, till the ensuing -rains set them at liberty; they feed on flies in the way already -described, and can exist in this manner for six or seven months. When -found in this state the natives always kill them; sometimes by piercing -them with lances between the fore leg and the body, the only visible -part in which they are vulnerable; if they be not prepared with a lance, -they collect wood, and kindle a fire as near to the mouth of the lagarto -as they dare venture, and burn him to death.</p> - -<p>These animals will sometimes seize human beings when bathing, and even -take children from the shores; after having succeeded once or twice they -will venture to take men or women from the balsas, if they can surprize -them when asleep; but they are remarkably timid, and any noise will -drive them from their purpose. They have also been known to swim -alongside a small canoe, and to suddenly place one of their paws on the -edge and upset it, when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> they immediately seize the unwary victim. -Whenever it is known that a <i>cebado</i>, one that has devoured either a -human being or cattle, is in the neighbourhood, all the people join in -the common cause to destroy it; this they often effect by means of a -noose of strong hide rope, baited with some animal food; when the -lagarto seizes the bait its upper jaw becomes entangled with the rope, -and the people immediately attack it with their lances, and generally -kill it.</p> - -<p>The natives sometimes divert themselves in catching the lagartos alive; -they employ two methods, equally terrific and dangerous to a spectator, -at first sight; both of these were exhibited to Count Ruis, when we were -at Babaoyo, on our way to Quito. A man takes in his right hand a -truncheon, called a tolete; this is of hard wood, about two feet long, -having a ball formed at each end, into which are fastened two iron -harpoons, and to the middle of this truncheon a platted thong is -fastened. The man takes this in his hand, plunges into the river, and -holds it horizontally on the surface of the water, grasping a dead fowl -with the same hand, and swimming with the other: he places himself in a -right line with the lagarto, which is almost sure to dart at the fowl; -when this happens the truncheon is placed in a vertical<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> position, and -at the moment that the jaw of the lagarto is thrown up the tolete is -thrust into the mouth, so that when the jaw falls down again the two -harpoons become fixed, and the animal is dragged to the shore by the -cord fastened to the tolete. When on shore the appearance of the lagarto -is really most horrible; his enormous jaw propped up by the tolete, -shewing his large sharp teeth; his eyes projecting almost out of his -head; the pale red colour of the fleshy substance on his under jaw, as -well as that of the roof of the mouth; the impenetrable armour of scales -which covers the body, with the huge paws and tail, all contribute to -render the spectacle appalling; and although one is perfectly aware that -in its present state it is harmless, yet it is almost impossible to look -on it without feeling what fear is. The natives now surround the lagarto -and bait it like a bull; holding before it any thing that is red, at -which it runs, when the man jumps on one side and avoids being struck by -it, while the animal continues to run forward in a straight line, till -checked by the thong which is fastened to the tolete. When tired of -teazing the poor brute, they kill it by thrusting a lance down its -throat, or under the fore leg into its body; unless by accident it be -thrown on its back, when it may be pierced in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> any part of the belly, -which is soft and easily penetrated.</p> - -<p>The other method is, by taking a fowl in one hand, and a sharp strong -knife in the other; the man swims till he is directly opposite to the -alligator, and at the moment when it springs at the fowl the man dives -under the water, leaving: the fowl on the surface; he then holds up the -knife to the belly of the animal, and cuts it open, when the alligator -immediately rolls over on its back, and is carried away by the stream. -Much has been said about the surprizing agility of some of the Spanish -bull fighters, and I have often beheld feats that have astonished me; -but this diversion at Babaoyo, for so the natives consider it, evinced -more bravery and agility than I had ever before witnessed. The teeth of -the alligator are often taken from the jaws, and <i>yesqueros</i>, small -tinder boxes, which are generally carried in the pocket for the purpose -of lighting segars, are made from them; they are beautifully white and -equal to the finest ivory; some are four inches long, and I have seen -them most delicately carved, and mounted with gold or silver.</p> - -<p>In fishing, the natives also evince extraordinary dexterity, both in the -river and on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> sea shores. In the river I have seen them stand up in -small canoes, five or six feet long, and hold a net fastened to a -triangular frame, having a long pole affixed to it; they will dip the -net into the river, inclining the body backwards to preserve a perfect -balance on the canoe, sweep the net along the stream, and draw it to the -surface, raising the body gradually to an erect posture, so that the -equipoise is never lost; this indeed is a wonderful effort, because any -slight tremulous motion would upset the slender foundation on which they -stand. From similar canoes they will also throw the casting net, -<i>ataraya</i>, already described. At sea the natives, chiefly indians, mount -astride on logs of balsa wood, and take their large nets with them, -which they let drop; after which they fasten the cord of the two -extremities to the logs and paddle to the shore, dragging the net after -them, maintaining so exact a balance, that although the log is round -they very seldom fall off.</p> - -<p>In the sea along the coast of the department la Manta, very large cuttle -fish abound, some of which are twelve feet long and seven feet broad; it -was owing to the accidents which happened by their enveloping and -killing the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> divers that the pearl fishery on this coast was abandoned, -although some very valuable pearls have been found. This lucrative -occupation, however, if attended with such precautions as science may -suggest, will probably be reassumed; and the expectations of the natives -may be realized, that Providence has made a reserve and hidden treasures -from the Spaniards, that the country may not be unworthy of notice when -they lose it.</p> - -<p>The only mineral production in the province of Guayaquil of which any -mention is made, is emeralds, in the district of la Manta; but they have -not been sought for since the conquest; tradition states, that before -that period the indians possessed many of these gems, but it is probable -they obtained them from the neighbouring province de las Esmeraldas, -where I have seen several.</p> - -<p>After the foregoing description of Guayaquil and its productions, it is -almost unnecessary to say any thing respecting its importance as a place -of commerce. It is likewise the principal, and till very lately (1824) -was the only port to the provinces of Quito, Cuenca, Paste, and Papayan, -all of which are extensive, well peopled, and comparatively rich -districts. The only thing wanting here is an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> increase of capital, -activity, and inhabitants; for the climate and the soil are calculated -to produce whatever is found between the tropics; and there is no doubt -but that this will at a future date become one of the most flourishing -countries in the new world.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Journey from Guayaquil to Quito....Babaoyo....Road to -Chimbo....<i>Cuesta de San Antonio</i>....Arrival at -Huaranda....Triumphal Arch and Harangue....Description of Huaranda -and Province of Chimbo....Chimboraso....Accident at la -Ensillada....Road to San Juan....<i>Obrage</i> of Indians....Arrival at -Riobamba....Description of....Remains of Old Riobamba......Visit to -an old Cacique......Province of Riobamba......Road to -Ambato....Description of....Produce....Arrival at -Tacunga....Description of....Earthquakes at....Ruins of -Callo....Provincial Produce....Arrival at Chisinchi, Ensillada, and -Quito....Remarks.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The health of the count being re-established, we left Guayaquil under a -discharge of nineteen guns, some pieces of cannon having been placed in -front of the custom-house for this purpose. We remained two days at the -Bodegas de Babaoyo, a small village, where there is a custom-house for -the collection of the duties which are paid on goods, on entering or -leaving the province of Guayaquil.</p> - -<p>The roads across the savana, notwithstanding the absence of rain for -three months, were in some places very bad, although a number of Indians -had been sent by the Corregidor of Huaranda to repair them; they were -mended by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> putting the trunks of trees in the deep, muddy places, and -laying the branches and leaves of trees on the top. A considerable -number of cattle were grazing on the open plains, some of which were -very fat. At noon we halted at a farm-house, where a splendid dinner was -provided for us by the cura of San Miguel de Chimbo, who had come here -to meet us. After dinner we proceeded on our journey to a small -farm-house, where every convenient accommodation had been prepared for -us, and we remained here during the night. On the following day we -arrived at the village of San Miguel, situated in a deep ravine, -commanding a beautiful prospect of the mountains, which gradually rose -above each other, till their heads were lost in the clouds. On our -arrival at this village we were met by about forty indian boys, -<i>cholos</i>, fantastically dressed; and the little fellows danced along the -sides of the street as we passed to the house prepared for our reception.</p> - -<p>On the following day, July 22d, a dreary prospect presented itself; this -was the ascent of the cuesta de San Antonio; we began to ascend at nine -o'clock in the morning, and at every step new difficulties and greater -dangers presented themselves; in some places the road ran along a narrow -ridge, with a precipice on each<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> side; in others we had to travel along -<i>ladcras</i>, or narrow skirts of the mountain beaten down by travellers -into a path, with a deep valley on one side, and a perpendicular rock on -the other—a fall on one side threatening inevitable death, and on the -other broken arms or legs against the rough sides of the rock. In other -parts there was a narrow gully formed by the heavy rains and the transit -of mules, the perpendicular sides rising ten or fifteen feet above our -heads. To these may be added, that the whole of the road for six leagues -is composed of abrupt acclivities or rapid descents, while the track in -which the mules tread was composed of deep furrows, called <i>camellones</i>, -filled with mud; some of them were more than two feet deep, so that the -belly of the mule and the feet of the rider were dragged over the ridges -that divide the furrows: these indeed serve as steps, and in some degree -may be accounted a security; but if a mule should happen to fall, or -even to stumble, the danger of being thrown headlong down a precipice is -rather frightful. In some places there are two roads; the one by which -the mules descend has no camellones, or furrows, down which the mules -seem to prefer sliding to stepping down the others. When at the top, -these sagacious animals halt for a short<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> time, shake themselves, and -snort, as if conscious of the hazard of the undertaking; they then draw -their hind feet forward, place their fore legs in a slanting position, -and approach very gradually to the beginning of the descent, when with -uncommon velocity they slide on their haunches to the bottom. Their -dexterity in the crooked places is truly astonishing; for by a motion of -the body they incline themselves first to one side then to the other, -keeping the most perfect equilibrium, which is the only means of saving -them and their riders from being hurled headlong forward, or dashed to -pieces by a fall. During all this time the rider has only to sit still, -to lay the reins on the mule's neck, and trust to its sagacity and the -recommendation given by its master; for many mules are kept in this -neighbourhood, and are highly esteemed for their dexterity in sliding -down this part of the road; fortunately for us, being in company with -the Captain-general of the kingdom, all the best mules were collected -for our use.</p> - -<p>At two o'clock in the afternoon we were cheered with <i>se ha acabado la -cuesta</i>, we are at the end of the mountain road. This place is called -<i>parcara</i>, a gate or entrance; it also signifies a fortified place; such -this probably<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> was before the conquest, and such it was made in 1811 by -the Quiteños, to prevent the entrance of the Peruvian troops. We all -alighted, and shook some of the dirt from our clothes, after which we -were politely received by Don Gaspar Morales, the Corregidor of -Huaranda, the two alcaldes, several officers, and other gentlemen of the -province; but what proved far more welcome, was a relay of horses.</p> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/ib260a.jpg" alt="INDIAN WATER CARRIER, FEMALE INDIAN BRUSH-WOOD CARRIER" /></div> - -<p class="bold">INDIAN WATER CARRIER, & FEMALE INDIAN BRUSH-WOOD CARRIER,<br /><i>OF QUITO</i>.</p> - -<p class="bold"><i>Engraved for Stevenson's Narrative of South America.</i></p> - -<p>After our saddles had been placed on our new steeds we mounted, and -proceeded in regular procession, two indians, with silver trumpets, -going before. At the distance of a league from the town we were met by -the brawny vicar, mounted on the finest mule I ever beheld; indeed, such -an animal was quite necessary, when it is considered what an unwieldy -mass it had to carry: the circumstance made several of us smile, and we -could scarcely refrain from laughter when the corregidor presented him -to his excellency, saying, "the vicar of Huaranda, Don Juan Antonio -Maria de la Magdalena Jaramillo, Pacheco, y Tavera." Heaven help us, -said I, to an officer who stood near me, how I pity the parson's mule.</p> - -<p>We had not proceeded far when a troop of militia cavalry met us; these -tatterdemalions would certainly have borne away the prize had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> they been -put in competition with the infantry of Sir John Falstaff; and could I -have chosen for myself, hang me if I would have entered Huaranda in -their company.</p> - -<p>The next that made their appearance were the indian dancers, singing -their <i>cachuas</i> in <i>Quichua</i>, welcoming the arrival of the governor with -the most discordant yellings, and such extravagant expressions as beggar -all description. At the entrance of the town there was a triumphal arch! -This was composed of canes, decorated with curtains of all colours and -descriptions of stuffs; ribbons for streamers, and flags made of pocket -handkerchiefs; silver plates, dishes, spoons, and forks were hung round -it. When his excellency had arrived close to it, a curtain was withdrawn -in the upper story, and an indian in the uniform of an officer, his -coarse black hair stiffened with tallow and flour, still incapable of -being turned into a curl, but standing upright in every direction, -advanced to the front, made a most profound bow, and then stepped back; -after this he looked up, and exclaimed, "<i>angil bello, daja el papel</i>," -"beautiful angel, give me the paper," but in such a broken dialect, that -nothing, save an acquaintance with the Spanish language, can afford any -idea. Several white muslin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> handkerchiefs, which were tied in festoons -above his head in imitation of clouds, opened, and down fell, or rather -was lowered with a rope, an indian angel, his head as thickly cased in -tallow and flour as that of his invocater; he delivered a folded paper, -and was again dragged up into the muslin clouds, while the delighted -multitude expressed their approbation with shouts of joy. The orator -re-advanced, and read his harangue with all the rhetoric and graceful -attitudes of a Bombasto. His address was succeeded by the throwing up of -innumerable rockets, amid the sound of trumpets and other music -stationed on one side of the arch; this was followed by our arrival at -the house of the Corregidor, where a most sumptuous dinner was on the -table.</p> - -<p>Huaranda is the residence of the Corregidor, or governor of the province -of Chimbo, and may be considered the capital of that province. The town -is large but poor, the inhabitants being chiefly occupied as carriers. -Their wealth consists in their droves of mules, which during the summer, -when the road is open, are employed in conveying merchandize between -Quito and Guayaquil. The climate at this place is remarkably cold, owing -to its elevation above the sea and the vicinity of Chimboraso, which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> is -seen from the town, and has the appearance of a huge white cloud -piercing the blue vault of heaven.</p> - -<p>The province of Chimbo has an extensive breed of mules in the valleys; -barley, potatoes, and maize are cultivated by the indians in various -parts, and some sugar cane in the bottoms of the ravines. At a place -called Tomabela is a spring of salt water, which is so completely -saturated that it forms large crusts on the stones against which the -water dashes, and along the sides of the small stream; the indians also -put the water into troughs, and stir it with a wooden spatula; the salt -then crystallizes on the sides of the trough, and is taken out; this -salt is packed in small baskets and sent to different parts of the -kingdom, as well as to Peru; it is a specific for the <i>cotos</i>, -bronchocele, by merely eating food seasoned with it. This valuable -production is delicately white, easily pulverised, and very slightly -deliquescent.</p> - -<p>Having taken some refreshment at Huaranda, we proceeded on the following -morning to the Pajonal, at the foot of the majestic Chimboraso, the -giant of the Andes. The day was beautifully clear, and the view of this -lofty mountain highly interesting; we had seen it at the mouth of the -Guayaquil river, as well as at that city,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> a distance of forty leagues, -where we were almost suffocated with heat; but now we felt almost -perished with cold: the kingdom of lofty palms and shady plantains was -in four days exchanged for a region where vegetation is reduced to its -lowest ebb—the dwarf pined mosses.</p> - -<p>A <i>tambo</i>, resting house, stands on the plain at the foot of Chimboraso; -this had been prepared for our reception; and to contribute in a degree -to make it more warm, or rather to keep out some of the cold, the inside -had been neatly covered with long dry grass, called <i>pajon</i>, which grows -on this plain. Owing to an accident, the grass caught fire in one of the -rooms, at two o'clock in the morning; we immediately ran from our beds, -or rather ran with our beds, for we dragged them with us, not a little -pleased, in this dilemma, that we had all of us retired to rest without -undressing; notwithstanding this we were dreadfully pinched by the -frosty air blowing from Chimboraso on one side, or Carguairaso on the -other. After the first blaze of the pajon had subsided, the indians -entered the house, and dragged out a few things which had been placed -inside, but fortunately the principal part of our luggage had been left -on the outside. We waited till morning, sitting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> on our mattresses, and -wrapped up in our ponchos and blankets, as near the fire as we dared to -venture.</p> - -<p>In the morning we proceeded on our journey, winding round the foot of -Chimboraso, till the valley of San Juan opened on our right; we -descended along a very rugged steep path, and at twelve o'clock arrived -at the <i>obrage</i> of San Juan, belonging to Don Martin Chiriboga, where we -remained till the following morning. I here beheld the South American -indian reduced to the most abject state of servitude and bondage, -compared to which the slave belonging to the plantations on the coast of -Peru, is free indeed.</p> - -<p>These unfortunate beings, robbed of their country, are merely allowed to -exist in it; because the plunderers would only possess a barren waste -without their labour: the fertility of the soil would be useless without -beings to harvest the crops and manufacture the produce; the gold and -the silver must sleep in the mountains if no human beings were employed -to extract it. Alas! these beings are the degraded original proprietors, -on whom the curse of conquest has fallen with all its concomitant -hardships and penury. A miserable pittance of fourteen dollars a year is -the wages of a man who works in this cloth manufactory; and ten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> that of -him who tends a flock of sheep; and for this miserable pay they are -subject to the whip and to other corporal punishments: their home is a -hut, composed of rude stones placed one upon another, and thatched with -the long grass from the foot of Chimboraso: here, hunger, misery, and -wretchedness seem to have fixed their abode, at the sight of which pity -would wring tears from the heart of oppression; but pity has no part in -the composition of the oppressors of the Children of the Sun!</p> - -<p>Some of the cloth made at this obrage was the finest I had ever seen -manufactured in America, but this was by a transgression of the colonial -laws, which had established the precise quality of colonial -manufactures. Happy at leaving behind that misery which I could only -compassionate, we left San Juan in the morning, and arrived at two -o'clock in the afternoon at Riobamba, where some very neatly painted -triumphal arches had been erected.</p> - -<p>Riobamba is the capital of the province of the same name; the old town -was founded in 1533, by the Adelantado Sebastian Benalcasar; it -contained twenty thousand inhabitants, two parish churches, four -convents, two nunneries, and a hospital; but it was completely destroyed -by an earthquake in 1797, when with very few<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> exceptions the whole -population perished, besides a much larger number in different parts of -the province, and perhaps no remains of these terrible convulsions of -nature are more awful than those at Riobamba. Some of the ruins of the -old town may be seen on the acclivities of the mountains on each side -the valley, where the new town now stands, separated from each other at -least a league and a half; and I was shewn some ruins on each side of -the valley which the inhabitants assured me had formed part of one -edifice, particularly the two steeples which had belonged to the -Franciscan church; these were on one side, and a portion of the body of -the church on the other.</p> - -<p>The face of the country was entirely changed, so much so, that after the -shock the surviving inhabitants, and those of the neighbouring -provinces, could not tell where their houses formerly stood, or where -their friends had formerly lived; mountains rose where cultivated -valleys had existed; the rivers disappeared or changed their course, and -plains usurped the situation of the mountains and ravines. The face of -the country was so completely altered, that no one knows the site of the -largest farm in the province, belonging to Zamora.</p> - -<p>The new town is built on a sandy plain,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> much below the level of the -surrounding elevated plains, which are called <i>paramos</i>; its climate is -very agreeable, and calculated to produce all kinds of European fruits, -but at present only a few trees are to be seen in the orchards or -gardens. I spent the evening that we remained at Riobamba with an old -Indian Cacique, the only person whom I ever saw who could knot and -interpret the meaning of the knots of the quipus. He boasted of being a -descendant of the <i>huasta puncay</i>, the ancient lord of the surrounding -country. He had an account of the peopling of that part of the territory -of Maynas, to the eastward of the Cordilleras; first by a colony of -puncay indians, who had become too numerous for the country which they -inhabited; and secondly by part of the tribe, after they had been routed -by Benalcasar, on the plain of Trocajas, where they opposed the entrance -of the Spaniards. He also had a tradition that, a short time before the -arrival of the Spaniards, a colony of monkeys crossed the mountains from -the westward, and infested the country, till they were all destroyed by -the indians; and that on the arrival of the first Spaniards, the natives -considered them as a migration of destructive animals, and determined to -prevent their entrance; but on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> being defeated, many left the country -and joined the colony in Maynas. My kind host assured me, that the -province of Riobamba contained extremely rich mines of gold and silver, -and that from undoubted tradition this province sent more silver and -gold for the purpose of ransoming Atahualpa than any other in the -kingdom.</p> - -<p>The province produces annually about four thousand quintals of sheep's -wool, which is manufactured into different kinds of cloth; its other -productions are wheat, maize, barley, potatoes, arracachas, and European -culinary vegetables. The capital is so situated, that it is not likely -ever to become a place of commercial notoriety.</p> - -<p>Our next stage brought us to the town of Ambato, the road we travelled -being very irregular and disagreeable, owing as well to the coldness of -the climate as to the difficult ascents and descents; but the view of -our resting place cheered us. As soon as we descended into the valley of -Ambato, we found a triumphal arch, covered with ripe strawberries; these -had been plucked with their stalks, and then fastened to cords of maguey -fibres; large bunches were hanging down from the top, and in different -parts festoons and other ornaments were <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>tastefully displayed, and the -fragrance was peculiarly delightful. Here the Corregidor and other -gentlemen received us, and accompanied us to the town; part of the road -being confined with hedges of <i>tunas</i>, rosemary bushes, magueys, and -rose trees, with other vegetables belonging to the old and the new -world: the natives of such distant parts of the globe were here blended, -and were thriving in the most luxuriant manner. Before we arrived at the -town we passed under two other arches covered with strawberries, and for -more than a league the indian boys and girls danced along with us; -stopping till we had passed the arches, which they immediately pulled -down and stripped of their fruit, and then followed us running and -singing, with long wreaths of strawberries hanging about them.</p> - -<p>The town of Ambato is very pleasantly situated on one side of a river; -the churches and houses are generally neat and all new, for the old town -was completely demolished by the earthquake in 1797. Ambato is the -capital of the province of the same name, which for the greater part -enjoys a very mild climate and a most fertile soil. The crops of wheat, -maize, barley, quinua, and other pulse are extremely abundant, and of an -excellent quality. Many exquisite fruits are grown here, such as -apples,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> pears, peaches, apricots, and strawberries; these are produced -in great abundance; indeed many of the plains are covered with the -plants, and any person who wishes to purchase some, pays to the -proprietor of the ground, medio real, one-sixteenth of a dollar, and -either goes himself, or sends a person to gather them for him during a -whole day. Sugar cane thrives extremely well here, although it is four -years before it is ripe: remarkably fine sugar is made from it, superior -to any other that can be procured in this neighbourhood; but the -quantity is small.</p> - -<p>Cochineal, called here pilcay, is found in abundance in the leaves of -the cactus, and is collected by the natives for the purpose of dyeing. -The name given by the Spaniards to this valuable insect is <i>cochinilla</i>, -signifying a little pig; because it bears a resemblance to one, in the -same manner as in some parts of England it is supposed that the -woodlouse resembles a hog, and is hence called an "old sow." The cactus -on which the cochinilla feeds is not so prickly as the tuna, which in -the West Indies is called the prickly pear; the leaves are very green, -as well as the rind of the fruit, but the inside is of a most beautiful -red colour, similar to that of the cochinilla; it is very palatable, and -when eaten communicates its own colour to the urine. Little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> attention -is paid here to the cultivation of the cactus, or nopal, as it is called -in Mexico, or to the insect itself, consequently the quality of the dye -is not of the first rate; but were both properly attended to, there is -no doubt but the pilcay of Ambato would equal the cochinilla of Oaxaca. -Instead of killing the insect after taking it from the cactus, by -placing it in an earthen jar, and exposing it to a heat sufficiently -strong to destroy its vitality, and then preserving it in bags, as the -Mexican indians do, it is ground or bruised to the consistency of paste, -and often adulterated with a composition made of the juice of the fruit, -and flour; indeed the Mexican indians do the same, and they can imitate -the animal so perfectly, that it is difficult to discover the -counterfeit. The best method to detect it is, as an extensive dealer -informed me in Mexico, to put a quantity of cochinilla into warm water, -and let it remain twenty-four hours, then to stir it about, and strain -the liquor through a hair sieve sufficiently fine to prevent the passage -of the insect; allow the liquid to repose, and if any sediment be -deposited, the cochinilla contains a portion of counterfeit matter, the -quantity of which may be discovered by drying the sediment, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> -comparing the weight to that of the cochinilla placed in infusion.</p> - -<p>Among the delicacies found at Ambato is excellent bread, equal to any in -the world, and several kinds of cakes, particularly one called -<i>allullas</i>, of which many are made and sent to Quito, Guayaquil, and -other places. All the necessary articles of food are reasonably cheap -and very good, owing to which, and to its agreeable climate, many -persons choose to make this their place of residence.</p> - -<p>In the year 1698 the town was destroyed by an eruption of Cotopaxi, -accompanied by one of Carguairaso, which ejected torrents of a hot muddy -matter in such quantities as to inundate several of the neighbouring -valleys. On the south side of the present town there still remains a -monument of this dreadful visitation; a large chasm is seen in the rock -five feet wide, and more than a league in length.</p> - -<p>On leaving Ambato, a short stage of five leagues brought us to -Llactacunga, or as it is commonly called Tacunga. On our entrance we -were shocked at the sight of heaps of ruins, caused by the earthquake in -1797; the churches and convents were quite demolished, and their remains -exist in the condition in which that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span>frightful convulsion left them. -Tacunga is the capital of the province of the same name, and the -residence of the Corregidor; the plain on which it stands is evidently -of volcanic origin, or has been covered with volcanic productions thrown -from the neighbouring mountains. The town contains about three thousand -inhabitants; it has a parish church, and the remains of the convents of -San Francisco, Santo Domingo, San Augustin, and la Merced; of a college -of Jesuits, and a nunnery of barefooted Carmelite nuns; these after the -earthquake were removed to Quito. The churches and houses are built of -pumice stone, so light that it will float in water; it may be procured -in almost any part of the neighbourhood. Tacunga was completely ruined -by earthquakes, probably by shocks caused by the subterraneous -operations of the volcano of Cotopaxi, which is very near to the town; -these happened in 1698, when only one church out of nine, and four -houses out of seven hundred, were left standing; in the years 1743 and -1757 it was entirely demolished.</p> - -<p>In the earthquake of 1743, a Jesuit, Father Vallejo, was in the church -when the roof fell in; he remained under the ruins till the third day, -when he was taken out unhurt; but his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> mental faculties were so -completely deranged, that he had forgotten his own name, nor did he -recollect any of his most particular friends, and although a priest, -when his breviary was presented to him he could not read it, but -appeared quite childish; he afterwards resided in the college of Quito, -but his memory had so entirely abandoned him, that he never could -recollect any thing that had occurred to him before the earthquake, not -even his studies, and he was afterwards taught to read and to celebrate -a votive mass. This extraordinary instance of the effects produced by -fright is so well authenticated in Quito, that the fact appears to be -indubitable.</p> - -<p>On the same plain on which Tacunga stands are the remains of an indian -building, called the Inca's palace of Callo; but nothing except the -foundation can be traced. It appears to have consisted of a large court -and three extensive halls, forming three sides of an enclosure. It was -built of hard black stones, unlike to any now found in the -neighbourhood; owing to which, and to the similitude which the wrought -stone (having one convex surface) bears to that used in Peru, little -doubt exists of its having been built after the conquest of this country -by Huaina Capac.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span></p><p>Excepting in some few valleys the climate of this province is cold; its -productions are wheat, barley, maize, and potatoes. Here is but little -fruit beside wild cherries, called <i>capulis</i>, which grow in great -abundance, and when ripe constitute the principal food of the indians, -to which we may add a few apples and some peaches. Nitre is found in -several parts of the province, and a considerable quantity is -manufactured. Some of the estates in this district are very large, and -abound in horned cattle, from which good butter and cheese are procured.</p> - -<p>We left Tacunga on the morning after our arrival, and remained at a farm -called Chisinchi, and the next day we arrived at a farm house, called la -Ensillada, belonging to the Marquis of Villa Orellana, where all the -authorities and persons of distinction of Quito were assembled to -compliment their President and Captain-general on his arrival. I shall -not give an account of the ceremonies observed on the following day, -because they in a great measure resembled those practised in Lima, on -the arrival of a Viceroy.</p> - -<p>It will be observed, that the towns we passed through on our route from -Guayaquil to Quito are generally the capitals of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span>provinces or -districts; there are other roads, but the different Corregidors or -Governors wished to honour their President by receiving him at their -respective houses; indeed, care has been taken to establish the capitals -on the road, for the accommodation both of travellers and of the -Governors themselves.</p> - -<p>The principal population of these provinces is composed of tributary -indians and mestisos, some few Spaniards, and white creoles. The natives -appear very industrious and hospitable; but I had not a good opportunity -of judging; however, this is the character which I have heard of them from others.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Quito, Foundation and Situation....Plasa Mayor....President's -Palace, Bishop's Palace and Cathedral....Parishes....Convents and -Public Buildings....Jesuit's College....Convent of San -Francisco....San Diego....Santa Prisca....Santa -Clara....University....College of San Luis....of San -Fernando....Houses....Government....Nobility....Population....White -Creoles....Occupation of and Education....Character of....Mestisos, -Persons, Character, Employment....Indians....Persons, Character, -Employment....Dress of Creoles....Of Mestisos....Of -Indians....Diversions, Bull-fight and -Masquerade....Dancing....Music....Religious Procession....Market, -Meat, Fruit and Vegetables....Spirituous Liquors....Ices, -Confectionary....Cheese....Trade and Commerce.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Quito was founded in the year 1534 by Sebastian Benalcasar, with the -dedicatory title of San Francisco; and in 1541 was created a city by the -Emperor Carlos V. It stands in a ravine; the mountain Pichincha being on -the west side, and a range of hills called Chimbacalle on the east; to -the south is the plain of Turupampa or Turubamba, between which and the -city is the small mountain el Panecillo, and to the north the plain of -Añaquito, generally named the Egido. The streets, which run north and -south, are on a pretty level plain, but those which cross them rise -towards<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> the skirts of Pichincha, and descend on the east side of the -city towards the small river of Machangara, which flows between the town -and the hills of Chimbacalle.</p> - -<p>Near the centre of the city is the plasa mayor, or principal square, -besides which are those of San Francisco, Santo Domingo, and the -Butchery, <i>Carniceria</i>. On the west side of the plasa mayor is the -palace of the President, a gloomy looking building, having an upper -story; it stands on an elevation of nine feet above the plasa, having a -terrace or area, with a stone wall in front, and two flights of steps to -ascend it. The palace contains the halls belonging to the royal -audience, the treasury, and the gaol, together with the apartments -occupied by the President, the offices of the secretaries, and the -archives. On the east side, opposite to the palace, is the corporation -house in the centre, having a very neat stone front, with private houses -on each side; it also has upper stories with balconies. On the north -side of the square is the Bishop's palace, with a stone arched entrance, -and some private houses, under the balconies of which is a capacious -piazza. On the opposite side appears the cathedral, a very plain -building, with a steeple at one corner; indeed, this edifice is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> mean, -compared to other temples in the city, and contains nothing worthy of -particular attention except some paintings, executed by natives of the -city, and an effigy of Saint Peter, the workmanship of Caspicara, an -indian of this place. In the centre of the square there is a handsome -brass fountain.</p> - -<p>Quito contains six parish churches: el Sagrario, belonging to the -cathedral, Santa Barbara, San Blas, San Sebastian, San Roque, San -Marcos, and Santa Prisca. Of these the Sagrario is a handsome stone -edifice, containing some good sculpture and paintings, executed by -natives. Here are also two convents of Dominican Friars, three of -Franciscan, two of Agustinian, and two Mercedarian; the college of the -ex-Jesuits, two nunneries of Carmelites, one of la Concepcion, one of -Santa Clara, and one of Santa Catalina, besides a house of recluse -females, called el Beaterio. There is an hospital under the care of the -Bethlemite Friars, and part of the Jesuits' college has been given to -those of the order of San Camilo. Each of these religious houses has a -church, and some of them one or more chapels attached to them; besides -which there are other public chapels, for most of the nobility have -private ones, <i>oratorios</i>, in their houses, and there are others<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> -belonging to the colleges, the gaols, the penitentiary, the <i>hospicio</i>, -and other public places.</p> - -<p>Among the conventual buildings worthy of notice is the ex-Jesuits' -college. The front of the church is of stone, of most exquisite -workmanship; the Corinthian pillars on each side the central door are -entwined with wreaths of roses and lilies, so delicately executed, that -a person can introduce his hand between the wreath and the pillar; and -in many places pass it along the semi-circumference of the pillar before -the wreath comes in contact with it; these six pillars are thirteen feet -high, and each one is cut out of a single block of white freestone, of -which material the whole of the front is built. In two small niches are -placed the busts of St. Peter and St. Paul; underneath that of Peter are -the emblems of what he was before he became an Apostle; a small bark and -a net, the meshes and folds of which are detached from the principal -stone, on which several fishes are cut, one of which is quite detached -both from the net and the stone, is loose, and may be moved by -introducing a finger between the meshes of the net. Above the bust in -alto relievo there is a chair, mitre, crosier, and two keys. On the -opposite side, under the bust of Paul, in alto relievo, there is a wolf, -which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> having torn the skin from a lamb, except from the head, stands -with his fore feet on the mangled body, and holds one part of the skin -in his mouth, his head being raised and his ears pricked up, as if in -the attitude of listening; the whole of this emblematic representation -is most delicately touched, and evinces the chisel of a master. Above -the bust is a vase, standing on several books. The front also contains -in niches a statue of the Virgin Mary, and four of St. Ignacio Loyola, -the founder of the order; St. Francisco de Borja, St. Juan Francisco -Regis, and St. Francisco Xavier, the Apostle of the Indies; also two -busts, one of St. Luis Gonzaga, the other of St. Stanislaus Kotska, all -of whom belonged to the order. The whole of this beautifully delicate -piece of architecture was executed by indians, under the direction of -Father Sanches, a native of Quito; a work which will become more -estimable as it becomes more known to the lovers of the fine arts.</p> - -<p>The interior of the church is from a model of that of Jesus, at Rome; it -has a grave solemn appearance; the pillars are square, supporting an -unornamented groined roof, having a small cupola in the centre. The -interior of this temple was richly ornamented before the expulsion of -the order, but it has been despoiled of its most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> costly contents; among -these was a custodium, which is at present in the royal chapel of the -Escurial. One side of it was composed of diamonds set in highly polished -silver, the other of emeralds set in gold; although the whole only -measured two feet eight inches in height, it was valued at eight hundred -and seventy thousand dollars; on the bottom was MS. London, 1721. Of -this jewel there is a drawing and description in the sacristy of the -church.</p> - -<p>One of the entrances to the college is through a beautiful stone doorway -of most exquisite workmanship, of the Doric order. The library contains -upwards of twenty thousand volumes, among which are many very ancient -works. The books are placed in different compartments, having emblematic -designs over them, indicative of the science on which they treat; the -whole appearance is that of an amphitheatre, the books being placed so -as to form three ranges or stories. There is a gallery along the top of -the first and second, with a balustrade in front of each, and on the -tops of these there are desks to lay the books on, for the convenience -of reading, and inkstands for the purpose of making any extracts. One -great peculiarity respecting the room is, that although rats and mice -abound in every other part of the building,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> they have not entered this; -probably on account of some ingredient put into the mortar with which it -is plastered. In the refectory there is a good painting of the Marriage -at Canaan, but nearly all the most valuable pictures have been taken -away; a list of them only being left in the library. All the walls of -the building are of brick, of a very good quality; the door and window -frames are of freestone, as well as all the pillars and arches in the -cloisters.</p> - -<p>Part of this building has been given, with the church, to the Agonisante -Friars; part was converted into halls for the University, and the -remainder into barracks for the soldiers. In these premises the first -martyrs to South American Emancipation were sacrificed, on the 2d of -August, 1811.</p> - -<p>The convent of San Francisco is the largest I ever saw; the outer walls -are of brick, but all the cloisters are of stone; it stands at the foot -of the mountain Pichincha, and partly on some arches which cross a chasm -in the rock. One of the cloisters has a range of cells cut in the rock, -the roofs of which are level with the ground. The front of the church -stands on a terrace, twelve feet above the level of the plasa, from -which an elegant flight of stone steps leads to the door of the church; -the lower half of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> this flight having a projecting circular front, and -the upper being the reverse, in the middle is formed a large circular -area or landing place. The terrace is paved with flat stones of -different shapes and figures, but they are placed with such exquisite -art, that the interstices between them are scarcely perceptible. The -façade of the church is of the Tuscan order; it is massy yet neat, and -is crowned with two handsome tower steeples. The interior of the church -is very magnificent; the body is in the figure of a cross, and over the -intersection is a handsome round tower or cupola. The high altar is -richly ornamented, and the presbitery being elevated five feet above the -floor of the church has a magnificent appearance; all religious duties -are performed here with the greatest solemnity. The choir above the -principal entrance is supported by an elliptical arch, which crosses the -central aisle of the church, besides two groined arches, which cross the -two laterel aisles. The roof is supported by a double row of slender -circular pillars, and is of beautiful panel work. In the choir -considerable labour has been bestowed in carving the stalls and the -reading desk. Here are two good organs, the one Italian, the other built -in Quito, by a native. In the church and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> sacristy are many beautiful -paintings and pieces of sculpture, by native artists, particularly an -effigy of San Francisco, painted by Miguel de Santiago; a Saint John, -and a Magdalen, by the same, and a full-length <i>Ecce Homo</i>, by -Samaniego.</p> - -<p>Adjoining the church are two chapels that open on the terrace, the one -is dedicated to San Buenaventura, the other was built at the expence of -an indian called Cantuña, dedicated to Nuestra Señora de los Dolores; in -this there is an image of the Virgin Mary, most exquisitely finished; -the name of the sculptor is unknown, but it is believed to have been -Caspicara, an indian of Quito.</p> - -<p>Although the churches and convents of Santo Domingo, San Augustin, and -la Merced, are elegantly built of stone and brickwork, and contain many -things worthy of notice, I shall not enter into a minute description of -them. The reclusion convent of San Diego, belonging to the Franciscans, -is with regard to its situation (being in a ravine in the suburbs of the -city) nearly hidden among the trees and rocks, and most romantically -retired; the strictest attention was paid to its building, and it -resembles in every point a sequestered hermitage, which renders it -worthy the notice of a stranger. It<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> is perhaps the most perfect house -for religious retirement and contemplation in the new world. The -surrounding scenery of mountains traversing above the clouds; the -pleasing verdure of their skirts, while everlasting snows crown their -hoary heads; a meandering stream seen first to burst from the breast of -its rocky parent, and then to glide down the ravine in search of its -level, now and then interrupted in its course by abrupt turnings, -clusters of trees, or heaps of stones; it seems to say, man, thy course -is like mine, obstacles may intervene, and may appear for a while to -retard thy pilgrimage to the grave; but thy stay on earth is short, thy -life like my current, on the acclivity of this mountain, is continually -rushing towards the last goal.</p> - -<p>In this small convent the duties of a monastic life are strictly and -most religiously observed; the pale friars clad in grey sackcloth, their -sandals on their half bare feet, their habitual silence, all conspire to -confirm an opinion of the sanctity of the place, where men seem but to -live in preparation for another life. I have often paced these cloisters -on an evening, listening to the distant notes of the organ in the -church, and the solemn chaunt of the friars, with such reverential awe, -as I never experienced in any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> other place, but which, to be known, must -be practised—must be felt.</p> - -<p>In one of the principal streets there is a beautiful stone arch, -opposite to the Carmelite church, under which is an altar dedicated to -the Virgin Mary, where mass is celebrated every Saturday. This building, -which has the appearance of a triumphal arch, is called de la Reyna de -los Angeles.</p> - -<p>In the suburbs, on the north side of the city, is a small chapel, called -de la Vera Crus, and here was interred the body of Blasco Nuñes Vela, a -Knight of Santiago, who was the first person to whom the title of -Viceroy was granted. His conduct in Lima was so rigorous and -overbearing, that the royal audience deposed him, and embarked him at -Callao for Panama; but he persuaded the captain of the vessel to land -him at Tumbes, from whence he proceeded to Quito, and being pursued by -Gonsalo Pizarro to the plain of Añaquito, adjoining the city, a battle -was fought in 1546, in which the Viceroy was slain, and his body was -conveyed to this chapel, where his remains were interred.</p> - -<p>Quito is the residence of the provincial prelates of the four orders of -San Francisco, Santo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> Domingo, San Augstin, and la Merced, all the -convents in the Presidency being subject to them.</p> - -<p>The church belonging to the nunnery of Santa Clara is remarkable for its -elliptical dome, the transverse axis being forty-one feet, the conjugate -twenty-six, and the spring of the arch nine feet two inches; it is built -of stone, and the inner surface is entirely plain. Seen from the floor -of the church, the dome or ceiling, which is thirty-six feet high, -appears almost flat; this beautiful piece of architecture was entirely -executed by indians in the year 1767.</p> - -<p>Quito has always been a place of celebrity for its great number of -students; it was called the monster with two heads, because it had two -Universities. That of San Gregorio Magno, under the superintendence of -the Jesuits, was founded in 1586, by Felipe II., and enriched in 1621 -with all the privileges granted to the celebrated university of -Salamanca, in Spain. The other, that of Santo Tomas de Aquino, is under -the superintendence of the order of Dominicans; but after the expulsion -of the Jesuits the two were united by a royal charter of Carlos III., -under the latter dedicatory title. The two colleges of San Buenaventura, -of the Franciscan order, and San Fulgencio, of the Augstin order,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> had -the privilege of conferring the degree of Doctor, but owing to several -irregularities, such as presenting the degree to favourites, or for -money, they have been deprived of this privilege.</p> - -<p>The meetings of the University are held in the college of the -ex-Jesuits; and here, unlike to the university of San Marcos, at Lima, -and many in Europe, all the professors have both to lecture and to -teach, their places not being titled sinecures.</p> - -<p>The professorships are two for theology, two for canons, two for -jurisprudence, and one for arts. There is one also for medicine, but no -professor. After a course of lectures the chair becomes vacant, and is -obtained by opposition and public disputation. All those who hold the -degree of doctor in the faculty of the vacant chair have an elective -vote, as well as all the professors in the triennial election of the -Rector of the University; but these elections are referred to the -President of the Government, who, as vice patron, has the privilege to -reject or confirm them.</p> - -<p>The degree of bachelor is granted to all those who undergo a public -examination, after studying arts one year; and that of master to those -who finish the course, and are approved<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> in their examination. The -degree of doctor in the different faculties is obtained by a private -examination of the faculty, consisting of the rector of the university, -and four examiners in the faculty. The different degrees and faculties -are distinguished by the different colours of the badges, in the same -manner as in the university of Lima.</p> - -<p>The college of San Luis was endowed with the title of <i>Colegio mayor</i>, -by Felipe V., being the only one holding this title in South America; it -is also a royal college, and an ecclesiastical seminary. The habit is a -light brown <i>opa</i>, or gown, and a crimson <i>beca</i>, or shoulder band, -similar to those of Santo Toribio, at Lima; also a black cap, having -four pointed mitre shaped corners; the royal arms, in silver, are worn -on the breast on the left side, fastened to the beca. The college of San -Fernando has the title of a royal college; the habit is a black opa, and -a white beca, bearing the royal arms in gold, and a square cardinal's -cap. The former is under the immediate direction of a secular clergyman, -as rector, with a vice-rector and assistants; the latter under that of -the Dominicans, but both are under the patronage of the president of the -government. The college of San Luis has produced several eminent -literary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> characters, and several archbishops and bishops: Mexia, who in -the late cortes of Spain was called the American Cicero, was educated in -this college.</p> - -<p>The houses belonging to the principal inhabitants have generally an -upper story, but those belonging to the lower classes have only the -ground floor; they are for the most part built of adobes or stone, and -are tiled. The families of the higher classes reside in the upper story, -the lower being destined to the servants, and serve also as coach -houses, store-rooms, and other like purposes. The use of <i>estrados</i>, one -part of the floor raised above the rest, is as common here as at -Conception, and the females appear to be uneasy when seated on a chair. -The furniture, owing to a want of cabinet makers, is a mixture of -antique and modern pieces, just as they can be procured; yet some of the -houses, particularly that of the Count de San Jose, is most elegantly -furnished.</p> - -<p>A fashion prevails here of having a magnificent bed at one end of the -estrado; some are of crimson velvet, lined with satin, trimmed with -broad gold lace, and a deep gold fringe, with a cover of gold and silver -embroidery, on velvet; the sheets and pillow covers are trimmed with -fine Brussels lace, or equally fine lace<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> made in Quito. Some of these -beds have a handsome painting beyond them, or in some cases a -transparency, which, when the curtains are withdrawn, has a very good -effect.</p> - -<p>The government of Quito and its province is vested in a president, a -royal audience, composed of a regent, four judges, <i>oidores</i>, and a -fiscal; this tribunal was first established in 1563; it was abolished in -1718, and re-established in 1739. The President enjoys all the -privileges of a Viceroy, except in the military department, in which he -is subject to the Viceroy of Santa Fé de Bogota. The corporation, -<i>cavildo</i>, is composed of two <i>Alcaldes ordinarios</i>, eight regidores, -and other officers, as at Lima. The Indians are subject to an <i>alcalde</i>, -mayor, who is an indian, elected by the city corporation; they have also -an advocate paid by the King, who is called the Protector of the -Indians. The royal treasury has an accomptant, a treasurer, a fiscal, -and minor officers. The <i>aduana</i>, custom-house, has an accomptant, -treasurer, and minor officers. Besides these are the tribunals of the -crusade, of the effects of those who die intestate, of posts, and of -temporalities.</p> - -<p>Quito was made a Bishop's see in 1545, and has been the residence of -twenty-two bishops<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> (1810). The chapter, <i>cavildo ecclesiastico</i>, is -composed of the dean, archdeacon, chanter, treasurer, doctoral, -penitentiary, magistral, three canons, four prebends, and two -demi-prebends.</p> - -<p>Among the inhabitants of this city there are six marquises, three -counts, and one viscount, besides several families of distinguished -nobility. The family of the present Conde de Puñelrostre, a grandee of -the first class, who is a native of Quito, and the lineal descendants of -San Francisco de Borja, Duke of Gandia, also reside here. Quito is the -birth-place of one archbishop, eight bishops, six venerables, and -several persons of eminent literature, among whom, Don Pedro Maldonado -Sotomayor is worthy of notice. He was a profound mathematician, became -professor of the sciences at Paris, and was elected a fellow of the -Royal Society of London, in which city he died. Among those of note at -present (1810), Dr. Rodrigues and Dr. Arauco and la Señora Doña Mariana -Mateus de Ascasubi are esteemed literary characters. Quito was likewise -the birth-place of the unfortunate Atahualpa, the last Inca of Peru.</p> - -<p>The population of this city amounts to about seventy-five thousand -souls, and may be divided into three nearly equal parts: whites, -mestisos,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> and indians. Here are very few negroes or descendants of that -race, the indians being generally engaged as the household servants, in -which capacity they are called <i>huasi camas</i>.</p> - -<p>The principal employment of persons of rank is to visit their estates, -on which they generally reside during part of the year, particularly in -harvest time. The white inhabitants of moderately easy circumstances, -are farmers, merchants, or follow a literary career in the church, at -the bar, or are employed by the government. The young men belonging to -these classes are usually brought up at college, either as collegians or -day students, the education of these being gratis. Much judgment, as -well as vivacity, are displayed in the scholastic disputations, and -nothing is wanting but greater liberality in the professors, or rather a -removal of all ecclesiastical restrictions, with a better selection of -books and instruments, to enable the university of Quito to vie with -some of those of the most polished countries in Europe. If the young -men, educated in the colleges do not become such adepts in science as -might be expected, it is their misfortune, not their fault. The female -children of this class are generally educated under the eye of their -mothers, and except needle-work in its different<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> branches, and the -management of household affairs; reading and writing are all they are -taught. For their skill in playing on the guitar and psaltery, of which -they are remarkably fond, they are principally indebted to their own -application, or to the direction of some female friend.</p> - -<p>The white inhabitants are generally of a moderate stature, of a lively -countenance, and fair complexion. Like the white natives of Chile they -are narrow across the chest, to which configuration the frequency of -pulmonic affections may perhaps be attributed. In society they are -loquacious, frank, and courteous, particularly the females; in their -houses remarkably hospitable; and to strangers they are kind to an -excess. The only trait in the character of a Quiteño which militates in -any degree against his virtues, is a sort of fickleness or inconstancy; -they are indeed always ready for a change. The assertion of a friend I -found to be very true: "if," said he, "we have a penitential procession -in the morning, all attend in their most penitent attire, and put on -their gravest looks; if in the afternoon we have a bull fight, none are -absent; they will leave the circus in the evening to attend the sermon -of a missionary, and spend the remainder of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> night at a dance or -card party." This instability was too visible, and often proved fatal -during the period of the first revolution in this city.</p> - -<p>The mestisos are in general well formed, often taller than the ordinary -size, robust, of a ruddy colour, and very agreeable countenance; they -partake of many of the virtues of the whites, but exceed them in their -vices; they are equally void of fixed determination, remarkably fond of -diversions, but surprisingly docile, kind and obliging, considering any -attention paid to them, by any person who ranks above them, as a mark of -real honour. Many of this class are employed as overseers, <i>mayordomos</i>, -on the farms and estates belonging to the nobility; others apply -themselves to painting and sculpture, in which some have excelled, and -many of the paintings of Miguel de Santiago have been classed in Italy -among the first productions of the pencil; at present (1810) the artists -in greatest repute are Samaniego, Cortes, and Solis. The mestisos also -apply themselves to mechanical trades, and excel as lapidaries, -jewellers, and silversmiths; but a lack of inventive genius is certainly -visible in all their performances, exact imitation being their principal -study, and in this they most assuredly succeed.</p> - -<p>The Indians, both men and women, are of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> low stature, well -proportioned, very muscular, and strong; they bear a general resemblance -in their habits and customs to the indians in Peru, but they are under -more subjection to their masters. Those that are employed in the city -are household servants, in which capacity they are very useful, partly -on account of the equanimity of their temper and their blind submission -to their masters, and, if well treated, their attachment is great to the -house in which they live: a moderate recompense insures their constant -services. They are capable of supporting very heavy burthens; a man will -carry on his back during the greater part of the day a large earthen jar -holding from twelve to sixteen gallons of water; this jar rests on the -lower part of the back, while a leather thong fastened on each side the -jar is passed across the forehead of the carrier, who stoops in such a -manner, that the mouth of the jar is in a horizontal position, and the -whole weight rests on a line perpendicular to his right heel, on which -side it entirely presses. The indian has a kind of limping gait; he -trips on his left foot, and then throws himself on the right; owing to -which the right ancle is much thicker than the left, and this foot is -also much larger than the left. I examined an old indian<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> servant -belonging to the palace, whose constant employment for several years had -been to carry water from the fountain in the plasa to the palace, and -found that the whole of the right side of the body was a great deal more -muscular than the left.</p> - -<p>The indian women who employ themselves in bringing from the surrounding -villages any produce to the market at Quito, carry their burthens in the -same manner as the men. I have often seen them so covered with a cargo -of brushwood, lucern, green barley, or other light bulky articles, that -the load seemed to move along of itself, the carrier being completely -enveloped.</p> - -<p>Many indians in the city become butchers, weavers, shoemakers, -bricklayers, &c.; but they are remarkably slothful and indolent, and -apply themselves more commonly to drunkenness than to any kind of -business. If you wish to employ one of them, he will demand part of the -money beforehand, with the excuse that he wants to purchase materials, -or some other indispensable requisite, but it is immediately spent in -chicha or rum, and it often becomes necessary to apprehend the rascal -(particularly among the shoemakers), and to send him to gaol, before you -can oblige him to fulfil his agreement.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> Some of the indians are -barbers, and manage the razor with the greatest dexterity; they may -easily be distinguished among the indian tradesmen, because the brass or -silver basin is always peeping from under their cloak.</p> - -<p>Many of the mestisos, or descendants of the Spanish creoles and indians, -are very fair; but the lowness of their foreheads, as well as their -being very narrow, betrays their connexion with the indian. The -quarterones, or descendants of a Spaniard and a mestiso, approach much -nearer to the white creole; but in these the size and shape of the -forehead, also a small rising about the middle of the nose, from whence -it forms a curve terminating in a point bending towards the upper lip, -and some dark stains in different parts of the body, particularly one -below the region of the kidneys, which is always the last that -disappears, though often not before the fourth or fifth generation, -bespeak a mixture of the indian race. The mothers of mestisos generally -begin very early to plat the hair of their children, dragging it back -from the forehead and temples in very small plats, for the purpose of -enlarging that feature.</p> - -<p>The common dress of the male Spaniards and creoles is similar to ours, -with the addition of a long red, white, or blue cloak. Their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> riding -costume is very pretty: over a jacket, trowsers, and boots, they wear -the white poncho, and over this a smaller one made of deer skin, having -the hairy side outward. A pair of overalls, made of the hides of two old -goats, are fastened round the waist, tied down the under side of the -thighs, and buttoned round the legs, so that the necks of the hides fall -over the feet; and as the hairy side is outwards, no rain can penetrate, -however long the person may be exposed to it; a large hat is covered -with leather, and to complete the costume, a large silk shawl is tied -round the neck.</p> - -<p>The ladies dress almost in the English style, except a few ancient -dames, who wear a large hoop:—when going to church all wear the hoop, -with a black velvet petticoat over it, sewed in small folds, and a broad -piece of English flannel over their heads, generally of a brown colour, -which they can fold over their faces so as to cover them. Jewellery is -much worn by the ladies, of which many have a large stock, principally -consisting of ear-rings, necklaces, rosaries, amulets, and bracelets of -diamonds, emeralds, topazes, or other precious gems, in complete sets, -for a mixture is considered a proof of poverty. On particular occasions, -it is not uncommon for a lady to be adorned with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span> these kind of -ornaments to the amount of twenty or thirty thousand dollars.</p> - -<p>The dress of the mestisos is composed of a jacket and small-clothes, the -bottom of the drawers appearing below the knees; no stockings, and only -sometimes shoes; a long Spanish cloak of blue cloth, manufactured in the -country, and a black hat; these are called <i>llapangos</i>, a Quichua word -signifying barefooted. The females often wear a large hoop, and a gaudy -petticoat made of English flannel, red, pink, yellow, or pale blue, -ornamented with a profusion of ribbon, lace, fringe, and spangles, -wrought into a kind of arabesque about half a yard deep, near the bottom -of the coat, below which a broad white lace hangs, attached to an under -garment. The bodice is generally of brocade or tissue, or of embroidered -satin, laced very tight round the waist; the bosom and sleeves of this -are ornamented with white lace, ribbons, and spangles; a narrow shawl of -English flannel to correspond with the petticoat is thrown over the -shoulders; the head is uncovered, but ornamented with a fillet, ribbons, -and flowers, and the hair hangs in small tresses down the back. Like the -men the women seldom wear shoes or stockings, and it is considered a -trait in their beauty to have small white feet,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> and red heels, to -procure which cosmetics and rouge are often called in to lend their -assistance: this practice is very common among a certain description of -females.</p> - -<p>The lowest or poorest class of indian men and women wear a very scanty -and coarse apparel; the men have a pair of cotton drawers, hanging below -the knees; a garment somewhat like a wide sack, having an opening to -pass the head through, and two holes for the arms; this kind of tunic is -made of cotton or wool, it reaches almost to the knees, and is girt -round the waist. Sometimes a straw hat is worn, but they have more -frequently nothing but a leather strap round their heads, and never put -on either shoes or stockings. The women have only the species of tunic -called <i>anaco</i>, but it is longer than that of the men: over their -shoulders they wear a small kind of shawl, called <i>ichlla</i>, and this -constitutes their whole wardrobe, and is generally the only bed which -they possess. Their children immediately after their birth are swaddled -or bandaged in such a manner, from their shoulders to below their feet, -that they are deprived of all motion; the mother also frequently inserts -a wooden hook between the folds of the bandage, and hangs the child to -the wall, to the branch of a tree, or when she is travelling, to the -fore part of the saddle.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span></p><p>Those indians who are in better circumstances clothe themselves in an -elegant manner; the men wear white drawers with lace or fringe at the -knees, they have a shirt and a small black poncho, laid in folds -crossways of the stuff, each about an inch broad, and made very stiff -with gum; when put on the two ends are drawn downwards, a little below -the waist, and the sides are fastened together at the corners: this -vestment is called a capisayo. Round the neck they wear a kind of -ruffle, of lace, about eight or ten inches deep, and hanging over the -shoulders like a tippet. The hat is generally of wool, having a low -crown and very broad skirts. The Caciques, alcaldes, some butchers and -barbers, also wear the long Spanish cloak, breeches over the drawers, -shoes, and large square silver buckles, but never any stockings.</p> - -<p>The women of the same class wear a white under-petticoat, called the -anaco, with broad lace at the bottom; over this they have a piece of -cloth, folded in the same manner as the capisayo of the men, except that -the folds are vertical; this is called the <i>chaupi anaco</i>, and is merely -fastened round the waist with a broad girdle of various colours, being -left open on the right side, and reaching only halfway down the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> legs, -the white lace hanging down almost to the ankles. Another piece of black -cloth, named the <i>lliglla</i>, folded in the same manner is put over the -shoulders; the two upper corners are brought together in front, and -fastened with two large silver or gold pins, ornamented on the top, and -called <i>tupus</i>; the folds being extended the lliglla covers the elbows; -the hair is all collected behind, and made into a thick roll, by winding -a fillet round it from near the head to the very ends of the hair; on -the top of the head they have a large bunch of ribbons, usually red.</p> - -<p>The most popular diversion in Quito is bull fighting; it is conducted in -a very different manner from what I witnessed in any other part of -America. No regular bull fighters are employed, but a universal -inclination in the inhabitants to become dexterous fighters seems to -prevail, not only among the men, but even among the women. I have seen -several evince the greatest skill and agility both in the plasa and in -the circus, but the generality of the persons who parade the circus are -masked. This peculiarity of a general masquerade is highly entertaining, -and the natives are as fond of the diversion as they are skilful and -happy in their inventions.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span></p><p>A brief description of an afternoon's sport will convey an idea of one -trait in the character of the inhabitants of Quito, including all the -variety of classes. The moment that permission is obtained from the -President, the sides of the plasa are divided into lots, for the -different families of distinction, public officers, colleges, &c.; on -these are built galleries, supported on poles, and roofed, and some of -them are tastefully ornamented, each having a small private -dressing-room.</p> - -<p>About two o'clock in the afternoon, at which time the fight generally -begins, all the galleries are crowded, and from three to four thousand -men begin to parade the circus, in expectation of the <i>entradas</i>, or -entrance of the masks. Different parties previously agree to assemble at -some point, and enter the circus in procession; this is often done at -the four corners of the plasa, at the same time, and upwards of two -thousand persons frequently enter, accompanied with bands of music, -streamers, and fireworks. They first parade the circus in procession, -and then divide into groups, and wander about from one gallery to -another, saluting their friends and acquaintance, who are often -completely puzzled, not being able to distinguish who the individuals -are who are addressing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> them. At this time many of the nobility and -grave ecclesiastics disguise themselves, and leave their galleries to -mix in the motley group, and quiz their acquaintances in the galleries. -This part of the diversion generally lasts for more than an hour, and -after the whole is concluded, groups of masks parade the street with -music and flambeaux. The houses of the nobility and principal -inhabitants are open, and refreshments are placed for those groups which -choose to enter; this often produces much mirth, for the object of the -masked is to laugh at the unmasked, and the attempting to discover any -person who is thus covered by force, is considered extremely rude, and a -breach of the privilege of the mask. If attempted in the circus, or the -street, the assault would be immediately punished by the monkeys, who -would flog the aggressor with their long tails, the friars would strike -with their beads, and the muleteers with their whips.</p> - -<p>Some of the natives are remarkably skilful in making masks, and a person -may procure, at a few hours' notice, an exact representation of the face -of any individual in the city; whence it very frequently happens, that -people are seen double, one very gravely seated in a gallery, and a fac -simile dancing about the circus, to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span> the annoyance of the original, and -the diversion of the spectators.</p> - -<p>When a bull enters the area, many of the <i>trages</i>, masks, retire to the -galleries, but many who are fond of the sport remain and enjoy the -amusement without being known to any one; for this purpose the dress -generally chosen is a pair of wide trowsers, and a short shirt, hanging -loose; these are generally of silk. The head and face are covered with a -green silk hood fitting close to the face, having glass or talk eyes; a -hat and gloves complete the dress of a <i>ranchero</i>. This is also the garb -generally worn by those persons who leave their galleries for a while to -parade the plasa and afterwards to return.</p> - -<p>During the time that a furious bull is scouring the circus, three or -four thousand individuals are employed in it, teazing the poor brute by -hissing, whistling, and shouting. The bull will often gallop along the -sides of the plasa, when the spectators very deliberately stand close to -each other in a line, forming what they call <i>una muralla de barrigas</i>, -a wall of bellies; and I have often stood in such a line, when a bull -has passed us at full speed, not unfrequently rubbing his side along the -<i>wall</i>; if the line be complete, the animal never stops to attack<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> any -one, but if he find an opening, he pushes in, and causes a dreadful -uproar.</p> - -<p>The <i>aficionados</i>, both on foot and on horseback, vex the bull by -holding out to him a cloak, poncho, or umbrella, which, at the moment he -attacks it, the holder throws up and allows the bull to pass; this is -repeated so often that the animal will no longer advance, when some tame -oxen are driven into the circus, with which the baited bull retires, and -another enters the list.</p> - -<p>Masquerading is also common during the carnival, and the feast of -innocents; and I have been assured by very old people, that they never -heard of any robbery, or of any other depredations being committed -during these festivals, the whole mind of the people being entirely -engrossed by the sports, and in the study of something new. Many of the -nobility and the principal inhabitants are in possession of antique -dresses, two or three hundred years old; in these they make their -appearance on such occasions; besides which they have a sufficient stock -for the accommodation of their friends.</p> - -<p>Dancing is a favourite amusement of the natives, and some of their -dances are very pretty; they are in general imitations of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span> Spanish -<i>bolera</i>. Minuets are quite fashionable among the higher classes, and -country dances, reels, &c. also begin to be adopted. The mestisos are -particularly fond of music, and the small mountain called the -<i>Panecillo</i> is in the summer season frequently the evening resort of -forty or fifty young men, with fifes, guitars, and psalteries, which -they play till midnight. Nothing can exceed the sweetness of some of -their <i>tristes</i>, or melancholy airs, during the quiet of the evening, -when numbers of the inhabitants sit in their balconies and listen to the -fleeting sounds as they are wafted along by the evening breeze. After -playing till midnight, the young men frequently parade the streets till -day-break, serenading under the balconies of the principal inhabitants.</p> - -<p>One of the religious processions at Quito was so novel to me, and -altogether so strange, that I cannot forbear to describe it. At a small -village, about a league from the city, there is an image of the Virgin -Mary, which the pious inhabitants have been induced to believe protected -them against the destructive fury of the earthquakes that ruined -Riobamba and Tacunga; in consequence of which, they voted two annual -feasts to the image, to be celebrated in the cathedral of the city. -Application was made to the court<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span> at Madrid, that the procession might -be solemnized with the assistance of the whole military force; the royal -grant exceeded the humble request, for his Catholic Majesty conferred on -the Virgin of Guapulo the commission of a captain-general of his armies, -with a right to the enjoyment of all the pay and privileges during the -ten days' stay in Quito; consequently, on the day of her approach to the -city, the whole military force line the streets, present their arms, and -the drums beat a march.</p> - -<p>The virgin is brought to the city on a stand, enclosed with crimson -velvet curtains, carried on the shoulders of some of the principal -inhabitants, preceded by part of the chapter, and members of the -corporation. The image, being on duty, becomes a captain-general, and -appears in full uniform; on the arms two sleeves are drawn, bearing the -embroidery of her rank; on her head is placed a gold laced cocked hat, -with a red cockade and feather, and in her hand she holds the <i>baton</i>, -or insignia of command. The image of the infant Jesus participates in -the honours; a gold laced hat, small gold sword, and red cloak, adorn -the young hero, and in this stile they are carried to the cathedral, -where they are arrayed in their customary robes, but the baton is left -in the hand of the Virgin till<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span> she leaves the city. Although loath to -ridicule any thing that may, however distant, be connected with -religion, even the ceremonious part of it, I could never view this in -any other light than an ecclesiastical puppet show, a disgraceful piece -of mummery.</p> - -<p>Quito is also famous for many other religious processions, and these -times present a very favourable opportunity for seeing the best works -both of the pencil and the chisel, particularly at the procession of -Corpus Christi, when several altars are erected in the plasa mayor, on -which are displayed all the curiosities that the natives can collect.</p> - -<p>The market of Quito is well provided with good beef, mutton, pork, and -poultry, the prices of which are low. The beef is supplied by the -principal landholders, who are bound to kill a stipulated number of fat -oxen daily throughout the year, and to sell the beef at an appointed -price; for this purpose there is a public butchery, where an officer -belonging to the corporation attends to see that the agreement is -properly fulfilled.</p> - -<p>The vegetable and fruit markets are remarkably abundant; the climates -are so various in the neighbourhood of the city, (indeed, it may be -said, that they vary at every step we take)<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> that the vegetables and -fruits of Europe grow among those of the tropics. From the valleys and -<i>yungas</i>, sides of mountains, are brought camotes, yucas, aracachas, -palemettos, bananas, pine-apples, oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, -paltas, chirimoyas, guavas, granadillas; and from the cooler parts they -bring potatoes, cabbages, beets, apples, pears, guinds, peaches, -apricots, melons, strawberries, as well as various sallads and pot -herbs: maize and other pulse are grown in the different climates, and -many of the vegetables and esculents may be had in perfection during the -whole year. Several kinds of bread are brought to market at certain -hours of the day, for the purpose of serving whilst quite fresh at the -meals of the inhabitants: it is always made into small loaves, or rather -cakes. After twelve o'clock the bread begins to fall in price; and at -five o'clock six cakes may be bought for the same money that three of -the same kind would have cost in the morning: this arises from the -custom of never eating old bread. Many varieties of sweet cakes are also -sold in the market, some of which are particularly delicate.</p> - -<p>The spirits usually drunk in Quito are rum and a small quantity of -brandy: from the rum, which is distilled here, many liqueurs are made.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> -It has probably been observed, that rum is not so noxious to the health -of the Quiteños as it is supposed to be to that of the Peruvians; but, -on the contrary, brandy is here considered by the careful government to -be possessed of deleterious qualities. The truth is, that the distilling -of rum is a royal monopoly in Quito; whereas that of brandy is not so in -Peru: thus, for the purpose of increasing the consumption of rum, which -augments the royal revenue, brandy is one of the <i>pisco</i> or -<i>aguardiente</i>, contraband articles. Among the lower classes the use of -chicha made of maize is very common, and its intoxicating qualities are -but too visible among the indians, who are passionately fond of it: for -the purpose of stimulating a species of thirst or forcing the appetite, -they eat very large quantities of capsicum, aji: it is not uncommon, -indeed, for an indian to make a meal of twenty or thirty pods of -capsicum, a little salt, a piece of bread, and two or three quarts of -chicha.</p> - -<p>Quito is famous for the delicate ices and iced beverages which are made -by the inhabitants; a service of ices, when a dinner or supper is given -to a large party, is considered the greatest ornament of the table. -These ices are generally prepared by the nuns, who, for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> purpose, -have pewter moulds, made to imitate several kinds of fruit; these are in -two pieces, which are first united with wax and tied together: at a -small aperture at one end the liquor is poured in, a fluid prepared from -the juice of the fruit which the mould is made to imitate; when full, -the hole is closed with wax, and the mould is put into a heap of broken -ice mixed with salt, and allowed to remain till the liquor is congealed; -the two parts of the mould are then separated, and the solid contents -placed on a dish: thus a service of ices is made to consist of perfect -imitations of pine-apples, oranges, melons, figs, and other fruits. When -milk or cream is iced it is poured into a mould formed like a cheese. -These imitations, placed on dishes, and ornamented with leaves, &c. are -with difficulty distinguished from fruit, and when fruit is mixed with -them, I have frequently seen strangers completely deceived.</p> - -<p>The natives of Quito are very skilful in cooking some of the produce of -the country; so much so, that I have often been assured by them, that -forty-six different kinds of cakes and dishes are made of maize, or at -least in which maize is the principal ingredient: of potatoes thirty-two -are made in the same manner,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span> without counting many others, in which -maize or potatoes are mixed.</p> - -<p>Some of the confectionary is very delicate, particularly dry or candied -sweetmeats. These are often made of the pulp or jelly of different -fruits, in imitation of those fruits, and not larger than hazel nuts: -thus oranges, lemons, and limes are often taken from the trees when -about the size of nuts, and delicately preserved and candied over. The -same kinds of fruit are also taken when ripe, and the rinds preserved; -they are filled with the flowers, after they have been preserved, and -the whole candied over, and put into a dry place, where they may be kept -for a long time. What is justly considered a master piece of -confectionary in Quito is to preserve the rind of a very large citron, -then to fill it with small candied oranges, lemons, limes, figs, &c., -and afterwards to candy the outside of the citron.</p> - -<p>The enormous quantity of cheese consumed in this city almost exceeds -belief, the cost price not being less than from eighty to ninety -thousand dollars a year. The estimate is made as to the price, because -cheese, like many other commodities, is bought by the lump, not by the -weight; and the price seldom varies. I have weighed several cheeses that -cost a dollar each,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> and found them to weigh on an average seven or -eight pounds when fresh (for in this state the cheese is always brought -to market), so that the quantity consumed annually amounts to about six -hundred and forty thousand pounds weight, or upwards of two hundred and -eighty five tons. This may partly be accounted for from the number of -dishes made with potatoes, pumpkins, gourds, maize, wheat, and many -other kinds of vegetables and pulse mixed with cheese. As the custom of -eating toasted cheese is prevalent, a whole one, weighing from three to -four pounds, is generally placed on the tables of wealthy citizens both -at breakfast and supper; and many of these being land proprietors and -farmers derive the greater part of the profits of their farms from the -cheese which is made on them.</p> - -<p>The trade or commerce of Quito may be very properly divided into two -classes—that of home manufactures, and that of foreign. Indeed, it is -thus divided by the tradesmen and merchants, the shops and stores -generally containing only one kind of goods. The home made consist of -cotton and woollen cloths, baizes, sugars, flannels, ponchos, stockings, -laces, dyeing materials, thread, tapes, needles, and other minor -articles. The stock of foreign<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span> articles is composed of all kinds of -European manufactured goods, also iron, steel, and some other raw -materials.</p> - -<p>The European manufactures most in demand are English broad cloths, -kerseymeres, coloured broad flannels, calicoes, plain and printed -dimities, muslins, stockings, velveteens; Irish linens in imitation of -German <i>platillas</i>; fine, in imitation of French lawn; all kinds of -hardware and cutlery, and foreign silk velvets, satins, silks, &c. as -well as English ribbons and silks. Like the Lima market, the articles -should be of a good quality, and of the newest fashion—the more this -point is attended to the better the market will be found.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Visit of the Academicians to Quito in 1736....Inscription left -by....Climate of Quito....View of Mountains at....Description of -Chimboraso....Of Cayambe urcu....Of Antisana....Of Cotopaxi....Of -Pichincha....Of El Altar....Description of the fertility of the -Valleys....Mines....Ruins of Temples, Palaces, and Fortified -Places....Account of the Indians....Of Commerce.</p></blockquote> - -<p>In 1736 the academy of sciences at Paris sent M. Luis Godin, M. Peter -Bouguer, M. Charles de la Condamine and others to Quito, in order to -make some astronomical and physical observations. They were accompanied, -by order of the Spanish Court, by Don Jorge Juan, and Don Antonio de -Ulloa. Having finished their operations they left the following -inscription in marble on the wall of the church belonging to the -ex-Jesuits:—</p> - -<blockquote><p>Observationibus Ludovici Godin, Petri Bouguer, Caroli Mariæ de la -Condamine á Regia Parasiensi Scientiarum Academia, inventa sunt -Quiti latitudo hujusce templiaustralis grad. 0 min. 3 sec. 18. -longitudo occidentalis ab observatorio Regio grad. 81, min. 22. -Declinatio acus magneticæ à borea ad orientem, exeunte anno<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span> 1736 -grad. 8, min. 45; anno 1742 grad. 8, min. 20. Inclinatio ejusdem -infra orizontem parte boreali, conchœ anno 1739 grad. 12. Quiti -1741 grad. 15. Altitudines supra libellam maris geometrice collectæ -in exapedis Parisiensibus spectabiliorum nive perenni hujus -provinciæ montium quorum plerique flammas evomuerunt—Cota-cache -2567, Cayambur 3028, Antisana 3016, Cotopaxi 2952, Tunguragua 2623, -Sangay etiam nunc ardentis 2678, Chimboraso 3220, Ilinisa 2717, -Soli Quitensis in foro majori 1462, Crucis in proximo Pichincha -montis vertice conspicuæ 2042, acutioris ac lapidei cacuminis nive -plerumque operti 2432, ut et nivis infimæ permanentis in montibus -nivosis: media elevatio mercurii in barometro suspensi in Zona -Torrida, eaque parum variabilis in ora maritima pollicum 28. -linearum 0. Quiti poll. 20. lin. 0¼ in Pichinche ad crucem poll. -17. lin. 7. ad nivem poll. 16. lin. 0 spiritus vini qui in -thermometro Reaumuriano à partibus 1000 incipiente gelu ad 1080 -partes in aqua fervente intumescit: dilatio Quiti à partibus 1008 -ad partes 1018 juxta mare a 1017 ad 1029 in fastigio Pichinche à -995 ad 1012. Soni velocitatis unius minuti secundi intervalo -hæxapedarum 175. Penduli simplicis equinoctialis,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span> unius minuti -secundi temporis medii in altitudine soli Quitensis archetypus.</p> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/ib322.jpg" alt="lines" /></div> - -<p class="center">(Mensuruæ naturalis exemplar, utinam et<br />universalis)</p> - -<p>Aqualis 5079/10000 Hexapedæ, seu pedibus 3 pollicibus 0. lineis -6-83/100 major in proximæ maris littore 27/100 lin. minor in apice -Pichinche 16/100 lin. Refractio Astronomica Orizontalis sub -Æquatore media, juxta mare 27 min. ad nivem in Chimboraso 19´ 51´´; -ex qua et aliis observatis Quiti 22´ 50´´. Limborum inferiorum -Solis in Tropicis, Dec. 1736, et Junii 1737, distantia instrumento -dodecapedalia mensurata grad. 47, min. 28, sec. 36, ex qua positis -diametris Solis min. 32, sec. 37, et 31´ 33´´. Refractione in 66, -grad. altitudinis 0´ 15´´. Parallaxi vero 4´ 10´´ eruiter -obliquitas Eclipticæ, circa Equinoctium Martii 1737, grad. 23, min. -28, sec. 28. Stellæ triem in Baltheo Orionis mediæ (Bayero E.) -Declinatio Australis Julio 1737 grad. 1, min. 23, sec. 40. Ex arcu -graduum plusquam trium reipsa dimenso gradus Meridiani, seu -latitudinis primus, ad libellam maris reductus Hexap. 36650. Quorum -memoriam ad Physices, Astronomiæ Geographiæ Nautice incrementa hoc -marmore parieti Templi Colegii Maximii Quitensis Soc.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span> Jesu affixo, -hujus et posteri Ævi utilitati V. D. C. Spissimi Observatories Anno -Christi 1742.</p></blockquote> - -<p>M. de la Condamine fixed his meridian on the terrace of the college; but -this line being traced on brick became effaced, and in 1766 another was -substituted on stone, and a Latin inscription on marble was placed on -the wall near to it.</p> - -<p>The climate of Quito is remarkably agreeable, and almost invariable; the -indication of winter is the fall of rain, and the absence of rain -constitutes the summer season. During the months of December, January, -February, and March it generally rains every afternoon; usually -beginning at half-past one o'clock and continuing till five. A rainy or -even a cloudy morning is seldom seen at Quito, and even during the rainy -season the evenings and mornings are most beautiful.</p> - -<p>The temperature is so benign, that vegetation never ceases; hence this -city is called the evergreen Quito, <i>siempre verde</i> Quito; it is also -called the everlasting spring, <i>eterna primavera</i>; both which epithets -it may be said to deserve, for the native trees are all evergreens, and -the fields on the slopes of the mountains never lose their verdure.</p> - -<p>From the terrace of the government palace<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span> there is one of the most -enchanting prospects that human eye ever witnessed, or nature ever -exhibited. Looking to the south, and glancing along towards the north, -eleven mountains covered with perpetual snow present themselves, their -bases apparently resting on the verdant hills that surround the city, -and their heads piercing the blue arch of heaven, while the clouds hover -midway down them, or seem to crouch at their feet. Among these, the most -lofty are Cayambe urcu, Imbaburu, Ilinisa, Antisana, Chimboraso, and the -beautifully magnificent Cotopaxi, crowned with its volcano, which during -the greater part of the three years that I was a resident in this part -of America was continually ejecting either smoke or flames, not -observable during the day, but particularly visible in the morning and -evening.</p> - -<p>Having mentioned these mountains, I shall give a brief description of -the most remarkable in the province of Quito, being the most elevated in -the new world, and till the discovery of the Himmalah mountains, -considered the highest on the globe.</p> - -<p>Chimboraso is the "Giant of the Andes," the hoary head of which may be -seen from the mouth of the Guayaquil river, a distance of not less than -one hundred and eighty miles; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span> here the view is certainly more -imposing than when we observe it from the plains extended at its foot: -seen from that spot it looks like an enormous semi-transparent dome, -defined by the deep azure of the sky; at the same time it cannot be -mistaken for a cloud, on account of its solid appearance and well -defined edges, so different from the aspect of those collections of -vapours. The height of this enormous mass, from the level of the sea, -was ascertained by M. de Humboldt to be twenty-two thousand four hundred -and forty feet. Its height from the road leading to Quito, which passes -along the plain at the foot of the mountain called <i>el paramo</i>, or <i>el -pajonal</i>, is twelve thousand one hundred and eighty feet, and five -thousand four hundred and sixteen feet above the limit of perpetual -snow, under the scorching sun of the equator, and sixteen thousand eight -hundred and ninety-two above what is computed to be the limit in -England.</p> - -<p>M. de Humboldt has remarked, that "mountains which would astonish us by -their height, if they were placed near the sea shore, seem to be but -hills when they rise from the ridge of the Cordilleras." Without -scarcely daring to contradict this most scientific traveller, I cannot -avoid expressing my own feelings when I viewed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> Chimboraso, even at its -foot. Perhaps my ideas of grandeur are not correct, so that I must -appeal to persons of more extensive conceptions, to know whether a mass -rising twelve thousand one hundred and eighty feet above the head of an -observer can be considered a "hill!" In the comprehensive mind of a -philosopher, the base, not only of this mountain, but the whole range of -the Andes, may be a matter not worthy of attention, and consequently -detached parts of it must form minor objects. I viewed Chimboraso with -sensations of inexpressible delight, mixed with a kind of veneration -perhaps more strongly impressed, from the consideration, that it was -considered the highest mountain on the globe, for at that time (1809) I -had not heard it questioned, and much less denied. A kind of reverential -awe crept over me as I stood and gazed on this majestic mass, such as -may be more easily imagined than described.</p> - -<p>The figure of Chimboraso resembles a truncated cone, with a spherical -summit. From the foot of the snow its sides are covered with a calcined -matter, resembling white sand; and although no tradition exists of its -active volcanic state, yet the issuing of some streams of hot water from -the north side of it seems to warrant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span> that it is a volcano, or that it -possesses volcanic properties; and the circular summit of the mountain -has the appearance "of those paps without craters, which the elastic -force of the vapours swells up in regions where the hollow crust of the -globe is mined by subterraneous fires."</p> - -<p>From the melting of the ice, and perhaps with the assistance of some -undiscovered springs on the sides of this mountain, the rivers of -Huaranda, Huando, and Machala, have their origin.</p> - -<p>Cayambe urcu, Cayambe mountain, is the loftiest of the Cordilleras, -excepting Chimboraso; its elevation above the level of the sea is -nineteen thousand three hundred and sixty feet, and above that of the -plasa mayor of Quito nine thousand one hundred and eighteen. It bears -some resemblance to Chimboraso in its dome-shaped summit, and, seen from -Quito, it is the most majestic. The beauty of the appearance of Cayambe -urcu is rendered more interesting at sunset, on a clear evening; Huahua -Pichincha, little Pichincha, being due west of it, the shadow of this -may be observed gradually covering the foreground of that, and a few -seconds before the sun dips in the horizon, the shadow ascends the -mountain with great rapidity, and finally,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span> in a moment, the whole is -dissolved in darkness. An impression is made on the mind of the -observer, that this is caused by an overshadowing, and he remains gazing -in expectation that the mountains will <i>again emerge</i>; but the very -short duration of twilight soon convinces him that he looks in vain; and -when he turns his eyes from Cayambe to search for the other mountains, -they are gone also. This colossal mountain is crossed on its summit by -the equator, and were it not overtopped by its neighbour Chimboraso, it -would appear as if destined by the hand of nature to be a monumental -division of the two hemispheres. Cayambe is a volcano; but its crater -has never been examined, nor are there any traditions of its being in a -state of injurious activity. At the foot there are several vestiges of -mines, said to have been very rich when worked by the indians before the -conquest of the country, but at present they are entirely abandoned. The -rivers which have their origin in the north and west sides of Cayambe -empty themselves by the Esmeraldas and Mira into the Pacific; the others -into the Atlantic, by the Marañon.</p> - -<p>Antisana is a porphyritic mountain; its summit is nineteen thousand one -hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, on which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span> there is -the crater of a volcano: near to the foot of this mountain is the small -village of Antisana, situated at the amazing height of thirteen thousand -five hundred feet above the sea; it is considered to be the highest -inhabited spot on the surface of the globe.</p> - -<p>Seen from Quito, Cotopaxi is the most beautiful mountain in the whole -range, on account of its shape, being that of a truncated cone, having a -flat summit; it is eighteen thousand eight hundred and ninety feet above -the level of the sea, and, as already observed, its volcano, the crater -opening on the top of the mountain, is in constant activity, appearing -sometimes in the morning and evening like a colossal beacon: the flame -rises in such a manner, that its light is reflected from the icy coating -of the mountain.</p> - -<p>A faint idea of the majestic Cotopaxi may be conveyed, if we consider -that it is nearly as high above the level of the sea as Mount Vesuvius -would be were it placed on the top of Mont Blanc, the highest point of -the Alps—or if the highest volcano in the old world, Etna, were placed -on the top of Bennevis, the highest mountain in Scotland, and both on -the top of Snowdon, the loftiest mountain in Great Britain; the crater -of Etna<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span> would not then be on a level with that of Cotopaxi.</p> - -<p>Cotopaxi is the most dreadful volcano in the province of Quito, and its -ravages are spoken of by the inhabitants with horror. In 1738 the flame -which rose from the crater ascended to the height of three thousand feet -above the summit of the mountain: in 1743 its roarings were heard at the -distance of two hundred leagues, at Hurda; at Guayaquil, a distance of -fifty-two leagues, they were mistaken for loud peals of thunder. This -was the first eruption after the arrival of the Spaniards in this part -of America; but a short time before their appearance, when Pedro -Alvarado was on his march from Punto Viejo, the first eruption took -place, at which time a huge mass of stone was ejected, which the natives -call the head of the Inca, <i>cabesa del Inca</i>. The traditional record of -the indians is, that this explosion and ejectment happened on the very -day on which Atahualpa was strangled at Caxamarca, for which reason it -received the name which it now bears.</p> - -<p>Before the second eruption, in 1743, a rumbling subterraneous noise was -heard, which continued to increase for five or six days, when an -eruption took place on the summit, and three<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span> other apertures or craters -made their appearance about the middle of the acclivity, the whole -mountain being covered with snow till the moment that the eruption took -place, when the entire frozen mass was instantaneously melted by the -streams of melted lava, excepting some huge heaps that were thrown into -the air, where they melted amid the flames of the ignited matter that -was ejected. The melted snow overflowed the country lying between -Cotopaxi and Tacunga, a distance of five leagues, destroying the houses, -inhabitants, and cattle. The river of Tacunga was too limited to carry -off the enormous quantity of matter which flowed into it, and part of -the town and property on the adjacent country was destroyed. This -dreadful scene of devastation continued for three days, and the country -at the foot of the mountain, and extending more than three leagues on -each side, was covered with cinders and scoria. During this time of -terror and dismay to the people of Quito, Tacunga, Ambato, Riobamba, and -the surrounding villages, the roaring of the volcano seemed to increase; -but on the fifth day all was quiet; the fire and the smoke disappeared, -and the terrified inhabitants hoped that all the combustible matter was -consumed, and that they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span> should, consequently, thenceforward live -securely from the fury of this devastating enemy.</p> - -<p>In the month of May, 1774, the flames forced their passage through the -sides of the mountain, and continued to burn till November, when an -eruption, equal to that of the preceding year took place, and the -inhabitants of the surrounding towns were afraid that utter ruin awaited -both them and the whole country. At this eruption enormous quantities of -ashes were thrown out, which mixing with the water and mud darkened the -current of the Marañon to the distance of more than a hundred leagues; -so that the Jesuit missionaries, seeing not only that the colour of the -water was changed, but that many dead bodies, drowned animals, pieces of -furniture, and wrecks of houses floated down the stream, and hearing -also the loud roaring of the volcano, sent expresses to inquire the fate -of their countrymen, imagining that something more dreadful had occurred -than what had really taken place.</p> - -<p>On the 4th of April, 1768, another explosion took place; but nothing -except ashes were thrown or carried to any considerable distance; the -latter were ejected in such quantities, that the sun was completely -hidden, and from half<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span> past two o'clock till the following morning the -inhabitants of the neighbouring towns and villages were obliged to light -candles and to use lanterns in the streets.</p> - -<p>In January, 1803, an explosion took place, after all external -appearances of the existence of a volcano, or that either fire, smoke or -vapour had ceased to be visible for more than twenty years. In one night -the activity of the subterraneous fires became so powerful, that the -surface of the mountain was heated to such a degree as to melt the whole -of the immense quantity of ice and snow which covered it to an -unfathomable depth, and to a height, from the limit of perpetual snow, -of not less than four thousand two hundred feet. At sunrise on the -following morning the whole cone was entirely deprived of its customary -covering, and of its dark brown appearance. At this time the damage -sustained was not so considerable as at the former explosions; nothing -was injured except some houses and cattle that were washed away by the -sudden increase of the waters. M. de Humboldt says, that he heard the -tremendous noise of the volcano, like continued discharges of a battery, -at Guayaquil, fifty-two leagues in a straight line from the crater; it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span> -was heard also even on the Pacific Ocean to the south west of the island -of Puna.</p> - -<p>From the east side of Cotopaxi the river Napo takes it rise; and from -the south the Cotuche and Alagues, which afterwards unite and enter the -Marañon; to the north rises the river del Pedregal, which after -receiving some minor streams joins the Esmeraldas, which empties itself -into the Pacific Ocean.</p> - -<p>Carguairaso is a volcano, the summit of which is fourteen thousand seven -hundred feet above the level of the sea; it is situated in the province -of Riobamba. In the year 1698 it ejected such enormous quantities of -water, mud and stones as to destroy the crops in the neighbouring -fields, and the lives of many thousands of the inhabitants. This -dreadful calamity was also accompanied by one of the most alarming -earthquakes that had been felt in this part of South America.</p> - -<p>To the westward of Quito is the volcano of Pichincha, on the eastern -skirt of which the city is built. The mountain is elevated fifteen -thousand nine hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea. The -greatest explosions of this volcano have been in the years 1535, 1575, -1660, and 1690; in the last of which very fine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span> ashes continued to fall -in Quito for twelve days; the air was darkened by them, and the streets -were covered more than two feet thick. The crater of this volcano opens -to the westward, so that Quito must suffer from it so long as this -continues to be the only crater, for the ashes are blown over the top of -the mountain by a westerly wind; but the ravages committed by it are -generally limited to the province of Esmeraldas.</p> - -<p>In 1811 I observed the leaves of the plantains covered with very fine -ashes, which had been ejected from Pichincha, and carried to the -distance of thirty-one leagues.</p> - -<p>The summit of this mountain is called Rucu Pichincha, old Pichincha; it -is composed of several spire-shaped rocks, rising above the snow, at the -back of the crater; these are seen from Mindo, a small village situated -near the road which I re-explored, between Quito and Esmeraldas. -Detached from this there is the top of another mountain, connected with -the same base, and called Huahna Pichincha, young Pichincha; its head is -rocky, and it is the highest point that the Spanish and French -academicians arrived at during their operations.</p> - -<p>El Altar, formerly called by the indians Caparurar, and which name it -still retains among<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span> the natives, when speaking of it in Quichua, -signifying the snow mountain, was anciently higher than Chimboraso is at -present; but the volcano having consumed the walls of the crater till -they were incapable of supporting their own weight, the top fell in. -This was the case with that of Carguairaso in 1698; and the ruins of the -two volcanos bear a strong similarity in their pointed ridges, their -spire-like rocks, and leaning directions; they appear as if falling into -decayed heaps.</p> - -<p>I have only mentioned the most remarkable of the mountains visible at -the city of Quito; but besides these are the following in different -parts of the kingdom:</p> - -<table summary="MOUNTAINS"> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="center">MOUNTAINS.</td> - <td> </td> - <td colspan="2" class="center">VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td class="left">Aritahua</td> - <td></td> - <td> </td> - <td class="left">Cumbal</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td class="left">Asuay</td> - <td></td> - <td> </td> - <td class="left">Sangay</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Caxanuma</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Sara-urcu.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Cotacache</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Guacaya</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Sinchulagua</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Quelendana</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Rumi nahui</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Supay urcu</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Tolonta</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Tunguragua</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Uritusinga</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Yana urcu</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Imbaburu.</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span></p><p>Many of the ravines, quebradas, and valleys in this province have a -very warm atmosphere, which in some is so very hot and unwholesome that -they are uninhabitable. Other valleys which are more elevated are -remarkably healthy, uncommonly productive, and extremely delightful as -places of residence. One of these, called Pomasqui, is about five -leagues from Quito, where sugar-cane arrives at a state of maturity in -three years, and where many of the intertropical fruits come to their -greatest perfection. This luxury is enhanced by the proximity of other -situations possessing all the variety of climates known in the world: in -the course of three hours a person may experience the rigidity of the -poles, the oppressive heat of the equator, and all the intermediate -temperatures. A peon will ascend a mountain in the morning, and return -with ice so early in the day as to afford time to allow him to bring -before sunset the luscious pine-apple, the banana, and the chirimoya, to -where the apple, peach, and pear grow and ripen. There the botanist at -one glance would compass the whole of the vegetable creation, and in one -day's excursion would range from the palm to the region where vegetation -becomes extinct.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span></p><p>These valleys are principally under cultivation, and bless the -husbandman with a continued succession of crops; for the uninterrupted -sameness of the climate in any spot is such as to preclude the plant as -well as the fruit from being damaged by sudden changes in the -temperature of the atmosphere, changes which are in other countries so -detrimental to the health of the vegetable world. The fertility of some -of these valleys exceeds all credibility, and the veracity of the -description would be doubted, did not the knowledge of their localities -and the universal descriptions of the equability and benignity of these -climates ensure the probability. An European is astonished on his first -arrival here to see the plough and the sickle, the sower and the -thrashing-floor, at the same time in equal requisition:—to see at one -step a herb fading through age, and at the next one of the same kind -springing up—one flower decayed and drooping, and its sister unfolding -her beauties to the sun—some fruits inviting the hand to pluck them, -and others in succession beginning to shew their ripeness—others can -scarcely be distinguished from the colour of the leaves which shade -them, while the opening blossoms<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span> ensure a continuation. Nothing can be -more beautiful than to stand on an eminence and observe the different -gradations of the vegetable world, from the half-unfolded blade just -springing from the earth, to the ripe harvest yellowing in the sun and -gently waving with the breeze.</p> - -<p>An enumeration of the different vegetable productions of this province -would be useless; it will be sufficient to observe, that grain, pulse, -fruits, esculents, and horticultural vegetables are produced in the -greatest abundance and of an excellent quality, as well as all kinds of -flesh meat and poultry.</p> - -<p>The province of Quito abounds in veins of gold and silver ore; but at -present (1810) none are wrought. Grains of gold are often found among -the sand washed down from Pichincha; but no search has ever been made to -discover the matrix, nor does any tradition exist, nor any vestige -remain of the working of mines in this mountain.</p> - -<p>The mountains in the neighbourhood of Palactawga, in the district of -Riobamba, are full of veins of gold and silver ore; but, excepting what -is gathered when the rainy season ceases among the decombres washed -down, they are entirely neglected; however, Don Martin Chiriboga, in -1808, had selected a very rich vein,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span> which he assured me he had chosen -out of thirteen shewn to him, and had taken out a register for the -working of it; but during my stay in the province nothing effectual was done.</p> - -<p>Near a village called Puncho a vein of cinnabar was discovered and -seized by the government, because mines producing quicksilver were a -royal monopoly; but a German mineralogist having been sent for from -Lima, to form an assay of the ore, declared in his report to the royal -audience, that it was a mine of sheet tin, <i>haja de lata</i>, not knowing -the proper name for tin; however this mistake caused the tribunal to -declare, that the mine should not be wrought nor again mentioned in court.</p> - -<p>At Popayan and Cuenca there are many veins of iron, according to the -generally received reports, particularly at the latter place, which is -said to stand on a bed of iron ore. As I did not visit Cuenca, I mention -this on the authority of several individuals, of whose veracity I have -no reason to doubt.</p> - -<p>I have already, when at Huacho, spoken of the character of the Peruvian -indians; and as those of Quito were under the government of three of the -Incas, received their laws, rites, and customs, and adopted their -language, it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span> is only reasonable to consider them a part of that nation, -or rather, that the character of that nation was stamped on their habits -and customs: at least, persevering industry, whether the result of their -becoming the subjects of the Inca, or otherwise, is strongly marked in -many of the remains of buildings in the territory belonging to Quito.</p> - -<p>The ruins near to Cayambe may certainly be called superb. They are -supposed to be the remains of a temple dedicated to the great creating -spirit, Pachacamac. These ruins are on an elevated part of the plain: -their form is a circle forty-eight feet in diameter; the walls are -fifteen feet high and five thick, and the whole is built of adobes, -sun-dried bricks, cemented with clay. The materials of which the walls -are constructed are in a state of perfect preservation, which fact -appeared to me more surprising than the building itself; because the -climate is very different from that on the coast of Peru, where I had -seen buildings of this class. Here the rains are both violent and of -long continuance, nevertheless the walls are in many parts entire, -though formed of clay, and seem by their hardness destined to defy the -ravages of time for centuries to come.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</a></span></p><p>At the northern extremity of the plains on which the town of Tacunga is -built are the remains of Callo, belonging at present to a farm in the -possession of the Augstin friars. This edifice, supposed to have been a -palace of the Inca, was built of porphyry; the stones were cut into long -square prisms of different dimensions, having the exterior surface -slightly convex, except at the doors, where the fronts are plain; this -gives to the walls the fluted appearance of rustic work. The stones are -joined with such extreme nicety and exactness that the point of a -pen-knife cannot be introduced between them. A kind of asphaltum seems -to have been used as a cement, although in other Peruvian buildings a -marly soil was employed for this purpose.</p> - -<p>About one hundred yards from these ruins, fronting the principal -entrance, there is a mount, standing in the middle of a plain: it is -about a hundred and fifty feet high, having the shape of a cone, and -appears to owe its existence ta human labour. It is called <i>el panecillo -de Callo</i>, and, like that which stands at the southern extremity of the -city of Quito, is supposed to have served the purpose of a watch-tower, -because it commands an extensive view of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span>surrounding country, and -might be one of the means employed to provide for the safety of the -conqueror against any sudden surprize of his new subjects. If we believe -the tradition of the Indians, it is a huaca or mausoleum of some of the -royal race of the Incas; but this is not correct, because, according to -Garcilaso, these were all interred at Cusco, to which place they were -conveyed if they died in any other part of the country, Cusco being -considered their holy city.</p> - -<p>Near the town of Atun Cañar there is another ruin, similar to that at -Callo, but of much greater extent; it was visited by M. de Humboldt, who -gives a description of it in his researches. At the distance of six -leagues is another at Pomallacta, and there are more in many parts of -the country.</p> - -<p>Several remains of fortified places, called pucuras, still exist; they -are hills or mounts surrounded by ranges of moats or ditches, dug behind -each other, and protected or strengthened with parapets of stone, whence -the holders could safely annoy the enemy. These places were so common, -that almost every eligible situation was thus fortified: the outward -moat of circumvallation at Pambamarca is upwards of a league and a half -in extent.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span></p><p>The oral traditions of the indians touching the state of their country -before the arrival of the prince Huaina Capac, afterwards Inca of Peru, -are very trifling, and clothed in almost impenetrable obscurity; indeed, -the language spoken by them is entirely unknown, having been completely -superseded by the Quichua, the court language of the Incas.</p> - -<p>Huaina Capac having conquered the capital, called at that time Lican, he -espoused Pacchachiri, the daughter of the Quitu or supreme chief; she -was afterwards the mother of the unfortunate Atahualpa, to whom the Inca -at his death bequeathed the territory, which had formerly belonged to -the Quitu: the result of which bequest has already been shewn at -Caxamarca.</p> - -<p>Of the present race of indians, I shall only add to what I have said -when speaking generally of this class of the inhabitants of South -America, that the law of repartimiento, and the continuation of -corregidores in the provinces have weighed most heavily on the -unfortunate indians of the kingdom of Quito; consequently with their -debasement all the vices of indolence, apathy, and sloth are more -visible here than in those parts of the colonies, where the curse of -conquest has been less felt.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</a></span></p><p>Owing to the numerous population of Quito, its various climates, and -consequent diversity of productions, it must at some future period -become highly interesting to the naturalist, the merchant, and the -traveller. At present, one of the principal branches which will attract -commercial attention is that of wool, the quantity being great, and the -quality above mediocrity; but it will gradually improve as a more -perfect knowledge of the treatment of sheep becomes known to the natives.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Villa of Ibarra, Description.....Villa of Otavalo, -Description....Lakes San Pablo and Cuicocha....Visit to the River -Mapo....Gold Mines on the Banks of....Indians pay their Tribute in -Gold....Bæza, the Capital of the District....Description of the -Inhabitants, &c....Commissioned by the Government to Explore a Road -from the Capital to the nearest Point of the Coast....Maldonado's -Road....Leave Quito....Cross the Skirts of Pichincha, arrive at the -River Piti....Description of the Country....Description of -Piti....Proceed to Esmeraldas....Description of the River of -Jaguar....Houses, Plantations, Cattle....Method of Distilling -Rum....Food of the Inhabitants....<i>Saino</i> Tatabra, and <i>Aguti</i>, or -Huatus....Monkey and Charapa....Method of Killing Game with the -<i>Sorbetana</i> and Poisoned <i>Pua</i>.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Eighteen leagues to the northward of Quito is the town, <i>villa</i>, of -Ibarra: it contains about twelve thousand inhabitants, many of whom are -employed in the manufactories of cotton and woollen cloths, stockings, -coverlets, and ponchos; the last of which are superior to those of any -other part of the kingdom. Here are a parish church and four convents, -San Francisco, Santo Domingo, San Augstin, and la Merced, and a nunnery -of La Conceptión. The houses are generally good, the streets wide and -convenient, and the market-place capacious. Some of the shops are -tolerably stored with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span> European goods, and the trade carried on is very -considerable. The climate is warmer than that of Quito, and the market -is supplied with meat, pulse, fruit, and vegetables. Ibarra, being the -capital of the district of the same name, is the residence of the -Corregidor.</p> - -<p>In the district of Ibarra are many very fruitful valleys, in which there -are extensive plantations of sugar cane, from which the best sugar in -the kingdom is manufactured. The wheat grown in this district is also of -the finest quality.</p> - -<p>To the south west of Ibarra is the town, villa, of Otavalo, the capital -of the province or district of the same name. It contains from eighteen -to twenty thousand inhabitants, many of whom are mestisos, of a fair -complexion, and handsome in appearance; some of the men are remarkably -robust and muscular, indeed I never saw a race of finer looking people -than an assembly of Otavaleños on a Sunday, when they meet at church, or -at a feast. The climate of this town is much colder than at Ibarra, or -Quito, owing to its greater elevation, as well as to its proximity to -Cayambe urcu. Cotton and wool are manufactured here in the same manner -as at Ibarra, the natives appearing more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span> inclined to this kind of -labour than to the cultivation of the earth. Large quantities of cattle -are bred in the district of Otavalo, and some of the large estates have -from four to five hundred indians attached to them, who are employed -either in the cultivation of the land, or in the manufactories, obrages. -One large estate belongs to the Count of Casa Xijon, who brought several -mechanics and artisans from Europe for the purpose of establishing a -manufactory of fine cloths, woollens, and cottons; also for printing -calicoes, and other goods; but being prevented by the interference of -the royal audience, and a subsequent order from Spain, he was prevailed -on to destroy all his machinery, and to re-embark the artisans for -Europe.</p> - -<p>In this district there are two lakes; the larger one, called de San -Pablo, is about a league long and half a league wide, and is most -abundantly stored with wild geese, ducks, widgeons, herons, storks, and -other aquatic birds, but no fish. The smaller one is called Cuicocha; in -the centre of this there is a small island, where there are abundance of -guinea pigs in a wild state, named by the natives <i>cuis</i>, and hence the -name <i>Cuicocha</i>, cocha signifying a lake. Some small fish<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</a></span> called -prenadillas, are caught here; they are somewhat similar to prawns, but -when boiled retain their colour, which is almost black.</p> - -<p>After I had visited Ibarra and Otavalo, I was ordered by the President, -in December, 1808, to visit the river Napo, for the purpose of reporting -on the state of the gold mines on the shores of that river. This -commission was extremely flattering to my wandering inclinations, not -only on account of my being thus able to visit some parts of the country -little known to Europeans, but because I should have an opportunity of -witnessing the very river where the undaunted Orellana embarked, and -among undiscovered and unheard of nations traversed the greatest extent -of country that had ever been crossed at that time by any human being.</p> - -<p>I was accompanied by six indians from Quito, and four yumbo indians. The -latter inhabit a valley between Quito and Bæza, and frequently bring to -the former place pine-apples, bananas, yucas, camotes, besides other -fruits and esculents. The yumbos were our guides, while the Quito -indians carried my provisions, clothes, bedding, and other necessaries.</p> - -<p>Our first day's journey was to Pomasqui, where we passed the night at -the house of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span> friend, who kindly added some machica and dried tongues -to my stock of eatables. On the following day we began to ascend the -eastern chain of the Cordillera, and slept at night in a small hut made -of a few slight poles, covered with pajon; the following night we slept -to the eastward of Antisana. On the fourth day we began to descend by a -very rugged path, and in some places so nearly perpendicular that we -were obliged to prevent ourselves from falling by taking hold of the -roots of trees, or the crags of rocks; however, about three o'clock in -the afternoon we reached the first small plantation and first hut of the -yumbos, where we remained that night, and on the following day I found -myself travelling along the north side of the Napo.</p> - -<p>I was met here by the son of Don Diego Melo, Governador of Archidona, -who pointed out to me the soil which contained gold. It was of a reddish -hue, and generally lay about three or four feet deep, having underneath -it a stratum of indurated clay; some of these <i>capas</i>, as they are -called, extend from one to two hundred yards or more from the margin of -the river, and are of different breadths, from twenty to sixty yards. No -trees or vegetables grow in this kind of soil, and the gold, its only -produce,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</a></span> is obtained by washings: hence they are called <i>lavaderos</i>, -washing places, which I shall describe when on the coast of Choco.</p> - -<p>The indians of the district of Archidona pay their tribute in gold dust, -which they collect from the sand along the sides of the different -rivulets; but owing to their ignorance of the comforts which this metal -would procure them, or perhaps to a dread of their being enslaved by the -<i>mita</i>, to work the mines, should they ever present themselves to pay -the tribute with an excess of it, they generally take care to pay it at -five or six different times, always complaining of the scarcity of gold, -and the trouble it costs to procure a small quantity. It is nevertheless -known, that if any remain after the payment is made, they throw it into -the river; but Don Diego Melo assured me, that one indian always paid -his tribute in a kind of gold, which he showed to me, and which was -evidently not in natural grains, but in small particles apparently cut -with a knife, or some other instrument, from a solid lump of that metal. -Don. N. Valencia sent some negroes to work a lavadero on the Napo; but -his death occasioned them to be recalled shortly afterwards, and the -project was abandoned, the negroes being ordered to return to Choco.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span></p><p>There can be no doubt as to the immensity of treasure which is buried -in the capas, nor of that which is annually washed down by the rains -through the small ravines and rivulets into the river Napo, and thence -into the Marañon, where it is lost. I think the necessity of negroes for -working these mines might be superseded by a kind treatment of the -native indians; by indulging them in their foibles at first, and -afterwards gradually convincing them of the benefit that would result to -themselves from their free labour in the mines. It would certainly be -superior to that of cultivating a few patches of land, and carrying the -produce to Quito or any of the other Spanish towns, to barter for iron, -fish-hooks, brads, and indigo. It is very evident, that such a project -would require a considerable degree of patience and self-command, and I -may add of honesty too, because the principal object would be to secure -the confidence of the indians, which, owing to the conduct generally -observed to them by the Spaniards, would not be easily accomplished.</p> - -<p>From the accounts which I was able to collect, it appears that all the -rivers and streams in the neighbourhood of the Napo contain gold; and in -different parts of the province of Archidona, or, as it is more -generally termed, Quixos<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span> y Macas, there are capas, or strata of earth -whence gold may be extracted by washings.</p> - -<p>Bæza is the ancient capital, and formerly contained upwards of ten -thousand inhabitants; but since the expulsion of the Jesuits it has -become entirely depopulated, as well as Archidona and Avila, two other -cities, and twenty-two missions, the greater part of the indians having -taken to their original way of living in a wild state. Those that remain -are generally called yumbos; they employ themselves in the cultivation -of cotton, sugar-cane, mam, and some tropical fruits, which they carry -to Quito to barter for those commodities which they find necessary -either for fishing or for the chase. They also manufacture the small -quantity of cloth which they require for themselves; this is of cotton, -and is generally no more than a <i>toldo</i>, mosquito curtain, in the shape -of a small tent, under which they sleep, besides one or two sheets of -the same material. The clothing of the men is merely a pair of short -drawers, reaching from the waist to about the middle of the thighs, and -is generally white; that of the women consists of a piece of blue cotton -cloth wrapped round the waist, reaching down to the knees; but a -profusion of glass beads adorn their necks, arms, wrists, and ankles. -Both men and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span>women daub themselves with annota, achiote. In this half -dress they traverse the Cordillera, and with a basket made of -<i>piquigua</i>, a very tough creeper, carry their surplus to Quito.</p> - -<p>On my return to the capital of the kingdom, I was commissioned by his -Excellency the President to re-explore the roads leading from Quito to -the coast, namely, that explored in 1741 by Don Pedro Maldonado -Sotomayor, and that opened in 1803 by the President, Baron de -Carondelet.</p> - -<p>It had always been considered an object of the greatest importance to -open a communication between the capital and the nearest sea-port, for -the purpose of facilitating the commerce between this place, Panama, and -Terra-firma, and to avoid the inconveniences which are met with in the -circuitous road to Guayaquil, and which were highly injurious to -business in general.</p> - -<p>In 1621 Don Pablo Durango Delgadillo was nominated Governador of -Esmeraldas; he contracted with the Royal Audience of Quito to open a -road at his own cost from the town of Ibarra to the coast, and to -establish <i>tambos</i>, lodging houses, on the road; but he failed in the -fulfilment of his contract, and in 1626 was deprived of his government, -which was conferred,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span> on the same conditions, on Don Francisco Peres -Munacho, who failed, like his predecessor, and was removed. Don Juan -Vicencio Justinian and Don Hernando de Soto Calderon were afterwards -appointed. They proposed a route to the coast different from their -predecessors, but they also failed in the execution of their plan. It -was adopted, however, by the Baron de Carondelet, who ordered the road -leading from Ibarra along the bank of the river Mira to that of La Tola -to be opened; but it was soon discovered, that the river Tola, owing to -a sand bank, or bar, which crosses the mouth of it, could never answer -the purposes of a port; and, from the manner in which the road had been -formed, in three years it became impassable, and passengers generally -preferred the paths along the woods to the highway. The continuance of -this road as a communication between the capital and the coast was not -the only objection—a distance of eighteen or twenty leagues was added -to that proposed in 1735 by Don Pedro Maldonado Sotomayor.</p> - -<p>This intelligent Quiteño employed himself for more than two years in -examining the country lying between the capital and the coast, and being -invested with the same powers that were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span> given to other projectors, in -1741 he opened a road leading directly from Quito to the river Piti, -which has its origin in Pichincha, and forms part of the Esmeraldas -river. Maldonado immediately went to Spain, and solicited a confirmation -of the contract, and from the favourable report of the council, the King -erected Esmeraldas into a government and a Lieutenant-Captain -Generalship in 1746, conferring on Don Pedro Maldonado the appointment -of Governor.</p> - -<p>On the return of Maldonado to Quito the Royal Audience opposed the -appointment, and immediately informed the Council of Indies, that the -projected port and road would only open to the enemies of Spain an -entrance to one of her richest American cities, without at any time -rendering an increase to the royal revenue. This report produced a -counter order, when Maldonado abandoned his native country in disgust, -and retired to France.</p> - -<p>The importance of the projected communication was so glaring, that the -merchants and natives never abandoned any opportunity of proposing it. -The President Baron de Carondelet had been induced to open the road -called de Malbucho; but this failing to answer the expectations of the -people, the President Count Ruis de Castilla was solicited to order an -examination of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span>Maldonado's projected road; and the commission for this -purpose was conferred on me in May, 1809.</p> - -<p>I immediately prepared for my expedition, by ordering a surveying chain, -and by putting my sextant and some other instruments in order; -re-engaging also the indians who had accompanied me to Napo, as well as -six others. One of these was to be my carrier, and he waited on me for -the purpose of measuring me for a chair. My stock of provisions and -other necessaries having been procured, I left Quito with my suite; it -was composed of ten indians, with my luggage, one indian with my chair, -a servant, and four soldiers; forming a procession which would have -attracted the attention and drawn a smile from the inhabitants of any -city in England.</p> - -<p>The indians had their usual dresses, composed of white drawers, brown -capisayas, and sandals made of bullock's hide. Each carried on his back -a basket, like those of the yumbo indians, having a girth passing under -the bottom of it, which crossed the forehead; another was fastened round -the basket, one end of which the indian held in his hand to steady his -cargo. My carrier had a chair made of canes, and just large enough for -me to squeeze myself into; it had a board to rest my feet upon,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span> and two -or three canes formed an arch over my head; these were for the purpose -of placing leaves on when it might happen to rain. The two hind feet of -the chair rested on two straps, which passed round the arms of the -indian close to his body, and one attached to the top went round his -forehead; so that when seated my back was towards the back of my -supporter.</p> - -<p>Leaving Quito, we travelled along the plain of Añaquito about two -leagues, and then began to ascend the skirts of Pichincha, at a small -village called Cotocollo: the ascent was very gentle, and after a -journey of five leagues, we rested on the western side of the summit, at -a small hamlet called Yana Cancha. We had here a most beautiful prospect -of the crater of Pichincha, which was only about half a mile distant, -and during the whole of the night I could hear a rumbling noise, and I -sometimes imagined that I felt a tremulous motion. These appalling -circumstances kept me awake for a considerable time, though they had no -such effect on my indians and the guard, nor on the inhabitants of the -house, who all slept soundly, and many of them snored most lustily. At -sunrise the view from Yana Cancha was most enchanting; from the slope of -the mountain, apparently from the crater, the river Mindo rolled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span> down -to the fertile valley which it irrigates, dispensing its necessary -support to the many small plantations of sugar-cane, camotes, yucas, -bananas and plantains, which are cultivated at the bottom of the ravine: -to the westward immense forests extended themselves, forming the -boundary of the horizon to the naked eye; but with the assistance of a -good eye-glass I could perceive the Pacific Ocean beyond the limit of -the woods.</p> - -<p>Having crossed two eminences called Yarumos, and another called Inga -Chaca, the remainder of the road to the place of embarkation on the -river Piti was quite level, being intersected about every three leagues -with small rivulets. The whole distance from Quito to Piti being only -eighteen leagues, without any obstacles whatever to prevent it from -being converted into a most excellent road, makes a difference between -this and that leading to Guayaquil of about fifty leagues of land -travelling.</p> - -<p>When on our journey we had to halt for the night, the indians unloaded -themselves, and cut down six or eight slender poles, ten feet long, -which they stuck into the ground; they then cut others, which they tied -crossways to the former, with strips of bark; they next pulled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</a></span> the -upper part forward till this half roof formed an angle with the ground -of about forty-five degrees, and sticking a pole into the ground in -front, they tied the cross pole to the top of it to keep the building in -a proper position. The next business was to cover it, and for this -purpose each of them had procured when at Yana Cancha a roll of about -twenty <i>vijao</i> leaves, which were laid in rows along it from the bottom -to the top, each leaf hanging over the next inferior one, so that the -rain was entirely carried off, and to secure the dryness of this rude, -yet comfortable cabin, a small gutter was always dug at the back to -carry off the water. During this operation part of the indians were -engaged in procuring water, either from some neighbouring rivulet, or, -after we had descended the hill called el Castillo, from the <i>huadhuas</i>. -These are large canes, the largest species I believe of the gramina -tribes; they grow to the height of forty feet, perfectly straight, and -at the bottom are about six inches in diameter. The whole of the cane is -divided by knots, from ten to fifteen inches asunder; when green, they -are filled with excellent water, so that from each division about two -quarts may be obtained by cutting a notch in the cane; when they are -approaching to a state of ripeness, the water<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</a></span> becomes like a jelly, and -when quite ripe it is converted into a white calcareous substance, some -of the knots holding upwards of two ounces of this matter, which a few -months before was held in solution in a perfectly transparent fluid: on -this account the indians object to drink the water, on the supposition -that it may produce calculi.</p> - -<p>The leaves are in shape somewhat similar to those of the banana, about a -yard long, and half a yard broad; the upper side is of a beautiful pale -green, the under white; it is covered with a substance which melts when -held near the fire, and collected has the appearance and possesses all -the qualities of bees' wax. A small portion of it being added to tallow -hardens it considerably, and the candles made from this composition are -rendered much more durable in hot climates. These leaves are preferable -to those of the plantain, or banana, for they are quite pliable, and are -therefore often used for packing instead of paper, whereas the banana -leaf is easily torn into shreds; this, however, may be prevented by -holding them over the fire till they become pliable. It is customary for -the indians to pay a real at Yana Cancha for the loan of each bundle, -which they engage to deliver on their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</a></span> return, or they give two bundles -for one instead of a real; thus travellers carry under their arms during -the day the roof which is to shelter them at night.</p> - -<p>The soil of the country between Quito and Piti is very rich, and abounds -in many kinds of most excellent timber, suitable for buildings as well -as for the cabinet maker; among these there are cedars, huachapeli, -ebony, cascol, guayacan, lumas, and many others. One kind, called -<i>sangre de drago</i>, dragon's blood, grows in many places near to Piti. It -attains the height of forty or fifty feet; the leaf is somewhat similar -to that of the laurel, and the gum which it produces, and which gives it -the name it bears, oozes immediately whenever an incision is made in the -bark; it is then received on a leaf, or in a small hollow cane, or else -it is left to harden in the sun, by which means each drop becomes in -size and shape like an almond; the indians collect it and carry it to -Quito, where it is sold as a dye.</p> - -<p>The appearance of the yarumos scattered in clusters in different parts -of the woods is most beautiful from an eminence. They are a species of -bombax; the wood is porous and light, the leaves extremely large, and of -a very pale green colour, so that amid the dark<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</a></span> green foliage of these -extensive woods they look like enormous flowers.</p> - -<p>The richness of the soil, the plenteousness of water, even for -irrigation should it be necessary, the serenity of the climate, and the -facility of procuring indians as labourers, with every advantage that -can be desirable, render it very probable, that this part of Quito will -soon become populous, and that Panama, and the mines of Chocó, will in a -few years be supplied with the produce of land now in an uncultivated -state. There can be no doubt but that herds of cattle and fields of -grain will crown the labours of those who may form establishments in -this charming territory, where maize, wheat, rice, and plantains, the -daily bread of the four quarters of the globe, will be produced in -abundance to reward the labour of the husbandman.</p> - -<p>At Piti I found an old man, his wife, and two sons living in a -comfortable house, built like those of the Puna in the Guayaquil river, -shaded with half a dozen lofty coro palms, and fanned with the -magnificent leaves of the plantain, while the banana, several orange, -lemon, palta, guava, arnona, and other intertropical fruit trees were -laden with fruit, at the same time that small patches of sugar-cane,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span> -yucas, and camotes, seemed to vie with each other in luxuriance: numbers -of turkeys, fowls and ducks ran about on a small plot of ground lying -between the house and the river, which is here about a hundred yards -wide. Two canoes were tied to two trees, in one of which there was a -small casting net, several harpoons and fishing lines—every thing -seemed to bespeak comfort, nay, even profusion.</p> - -<p>The old man informed me, that he was a native of Guayaquil; but that he -had resided on this spot for more than fifty years, on which account the -natives of the country had surnamed him <i>taita</i> Piti, father Piti. He -shewed me forty-eight tiger or jaguar skins, and assured me, that the -animals had all been slain by his own lance; but he was sorry, he said, -that the sport was at an end, not because he was old, but because there -were no tigers left in the neighbourhood for him to kill, upwards of -seven years having elapsed since he took the last skin. He assured me, -that whenever he found the track of a tiger he always followed it alone, -and never rested till he had slain his victim. The skins were hung on -the inside of the roof and round the sides of the house, forming a very -pretty, but rather uncommon kind of tapestry.</p> - -<p>I here discharged my indians, and paid them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</a></span> only three dollars each, -although I had detained them eleven days on the road; my carrier told -me, that he had never had a lighter cargo, having had nothing but the -chair to carry; indeed I never entered it but twice, once out of -curiosity, and another time through persuasion: they all laid out their -money in fruit, roots, and dried fish, which they took to Quito, and -which would pay them at least cent. per cent.</p> - -<p>I rested one day at Piti, and then proceeded down the river in a small -canoe with the two sons of old Piti, leaving orders for my servant, -luggage, and the soldiers to follow me in a larger one.</p> - -<p>We glided down the stream about two miles, the river in some parts being -so narrow, that the branches of the trees which grew on each side were -entwined with each other over our heads, and formed a leafy canopy -almost impenetrable to the rays of the sun, and we could observe the -fishes frisking about in the water beneath; sometimes where the river -became wider, the margins were covered with the luxuriant gamalote, the -leaves of which are generally a yard long and two inches broad, being -somewhat like those of the maize; the stem is sometimes two yards high, -as green as the leaves, so long as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</a></span> the soil in which it grows continues -to be moist; but as soon as the earth becomes dry the plant immediately -decays. Here we saw some beautiful fat oxen grazing on this plant; they -belonged to the inhabitants of three houses, each of which was as -charmingly situated as that at Piti. We soon arrived at the place called -the <i>Embarcadero de Maldonado</i>, where we left our canoe tied to a pole, -and took a breakfast composed of smoked fish broiled, fried eggs, and -plantains; and for drink we had some <i>masato</i> and rum made by the -natives.</p> - -<p>The masato is made by boiling a quantity of ripe plantains till they are -quite soft; these are reduced to a pulp by beating them in a trough; -this pulp is then put into a basket lined with vijao leaves, and allowed -to ferment two, three, or more days; when it is wanted a spoonful or -more is taken out and put into a tutuma bored full of holes like a -cullender, a quantity of water is added to it, and the whole is rubbed -through the holes of one tutuma into another without holes, which serves -as a bowl to drink out of; or small tutumas are filled from it, and -handed round. I was highly pleased with the masato, and scarcely took -any thing else for my breakfast; the taste is a sub-acid, but remarkably -agreeable. I purchased a small basket for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</a></span> the remainder of our passage -down the river, at which my two <i>palanqueros</i> were not a little pleased.</p> - -<p>At the distance of three leagues from the Embarcadero de Maldonado a -most enchanting prospect suddenly burst on our sight. We had almost -insensibly glided along the unrippled surface of the river Piti, a -distance of about four leagues, during which the view was limited on -each side by the lofty and almost impenetrable woods, and before us by -the windings of the river—where not a sound was heard save the -occasional chattering of the parrots and monkeys on the trees, or the -shout of my palanqueros to the inmates of some solitary houses scattered -along the banks. Our sphere of existence seemed solitary, and as silent -as a dungeon, and I lolled in the canoe as if oppressed with -uninterrupted solemnity, such as might be congenial to the pious musings -of a holy anchorite; but I was suddenly roused from my reverie by the -loud roaring of the river Blanco, and in a moment the scene was changed; -at once our narrow river formed part of another, three hundred yards -wide; on our left the whole range of the country as far as the coast was -extended in the prospect. The Blanco, which rises in the neighbourhood -of Tacunga, after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</a></span> collecting part of the waters of el Corason and -Pichincha, and receiving those of several tributary streams, becomes -navigable at its junction with the Piti. The country on the western side -of the river is to a considerable extent very level, the soil good, but -the trees neither so numerous nor so lofty as in other parts, owing -perhaps to a scanty depth of soil, which seems extremely well calculated -for a rice country; indeed the natives assured me, that the small -patches sometimes cultivated here multiplied the seed six hundred fold.</p> - -<p>After passing the mouths of several minor rivers we arrived at that of -Guallabamba, equal in size to the river Blanco. The union of the two is -called Esmeraldas. We continued our course, and reached the city of -Esmeraldas in the evening. The distance from Piti to this place is about -eighteen leagues, which notwithstanding our delays we completed in nine -hours.</p> - -<p>During our passage down the river I was very much delighted with the -sight of a full grown tiger, which lay basking in the sun on a sand-bank -that projected from the side of the river almost across it. The noble -brute was stretched close to the edge of the bank, frequently dipping -his tail into the water, and sprinkling it over him, while his muzzle -and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</a></span> feet touched the stream. After watching the animal for a quarter of -an hour, my palanqueros became impatient, and at last taking their -lances they jumped ashore from the canoe, but at the same moment the -tiger sprang on his feet, yawned, stretched himself, and trotted into -the woods, leaving the two young fellows to lament the effects of their -less nimble feet.</p> - -<p>Between Piti and Esmeraldas I counted forty-two houses, built on the -sides of the river, each having plantations of sugar-cane, yucas, -camotes, aji (capsicum), plantains, and bananas. Near many of the houses -horned cattle were feeding on the luxuriant gamalote, and at every house -pigs and poultry were running about. Each farmer has a hand-mill for -grinding sugar-cane; its construction is very simple, being composed of -two wooden rollers placed horizontally in grooves cut in two upright -pieces. The ends of the rollers project, one on each side, having cross -levers for the purpose of turning them; with this simple wooden machine, -for not one of all those that I saw had a nail, nor any other iron work -about it, the natives express the juice from the cane, for the purpose -of making <i>guarapo</i>, molasses, and rum; two men are generally employed -at the rollers, and a woman attends to place the cane between<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</a></span> them, -while the boys and girls bring it from the plantation.</p> - -<p>It was here that I observed the peculiar mode of cultivating the -sugar-cane, which I have already spoken of; that is, of cutting the ripe -canes every three months, uncovering the roots of the remainder, -incorporating the soil with new earth, or digging it as well as that of -the space between the two rows, and then hoeing the earth up to the -roots again. By these means the cane here is perennial; while in the -province of Guayaquil, where the same mode of cultivation is not -observed, the plant yields only two, or at most three crops. Although -the cane at Esmeraldas is of the creole kind, I have seen it when ripe -more than ten feet high, six inches in diameter, and seven or eight -inches between the knots or geniculi.</p> - -<p>The means employed by the natives in the manufacture of their rum are -remarkably simple: the juice of the cane is allowed to obtain the proper -degree of fermentation, and is then distilled. The apparatus used for -this purpose is a deep earthen pot, having a hole on one side near the -top; through this they pass a large wooden spoon, having a groove in the -handle; on the top of the pot there is a pan luted to it with clay, and -this being repeatedly filled with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[Pg 371]</a></span> cold water, and emptied, serves as a -condenser; the spirit drops into the spoon, and running along the groove -is received in a bottle. I considered this alembic as an invention of -the natives of this part of America, because I never saw it used in any -other place; the general custom of the indians is to content themselves -with fermented liquors from the manufactories of the white inhabitants, -especially where spirits cannot be purchased.</p> - -<p>Spirits are also distilled from an infusion of very ripe bananas in -water; this is allowed to ferment, and is strained before it is put into -the alembic. Another fermented beverage, as well as spirit, is prepared -from the yuca; the root is boiled, reduced to a pulpy substance, and -placed in baskets to ferment, in the same manner as the plantains are -for the masato; when mixed with water and strained, it is called -<i>kiebla</i>, and the spirit distilled from it <i>puichin</i>. The water -contained in the coco-nut is also allowed to ferment, but this is seldom -drunk, it being considered very unwholesome. Although these people have -so many intoxicating liquors, they are not prone to drunkenness.</p> - -<p>The food of the inhabitants consists of beef and pork, which is cut into -thick slices, salted and smoked. The beef which is fed on gamaloti<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[Pg 372]</a></span> is -good, but that fed on the savanas near to the sea is much better: the -hogs are fed on ripe plantains, and become very fat, but the meat is not -solid. Fowls are bred in great abundance; they feed well on ripe -plantains, and are delicate eating. Besides these, the woods produce -game in great abundance. Among the quadrupeds are sainos, tatabras, -deer, monkeys, agutis, iguanas, charapas: among the birds, poujis, -huacharacas, turkeys, parrots, and wild ducks of several varieties.</p> - -<p>The saino, tatabra, and aguti are three varieties of the caira tribe; -the first is about two feet high and three feet long, and is slightly -covered with coarse black hair; the snout is shorter than that of a pig; -it has on its back a soft protuberance, which when opened emits a very -offensive musky odour, so much so, that the animal itself rolls about, -and places its nose close to the ground, as if to avoid the stench, and -its companions immediately desert it. The flesh of this animal, however, -is extremely delicate, and by the natives or any other person who has -tasted it, it is held in the greatest estimation: to preserve it the -natives smoke it in preference to using salt.</p> - -<p>The tatabra is smaller than the saino; is very similar to it, but it has -no protuberance on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[Pg 373]</a></span> its back. The aguti is not so large as a rabbit; it -is of a very dark grey colour, and the hind legs are much longer than -the fore ones; it generally sits on its haunches like a squirrel, and -might be mistaken for one; as well as the other two varieties, however, -it has no tail, at least not visible. These two species are easily -domesticated, they become very fat, and are good eating.</p> - -<p>The monkey which is eaten by the natives is the black long-armed monkey. -I objected for a long time to taste it, but seeing the people around me -eat it, and hearing them all praise it, I laid aside prejudice, tasted -it, and afterwards became so fond of it, that I considered it superior -to any kind of meat I had ever eaten. The flesh is similar in colour to -mutton, the fat resembles that of pork.</p> - -<p>The charapa is a small tortoise, the shell not being above four inches -in diameter: the natives generally season all the eatable parts, and put -them into the shell, which serves as a stew-pan: the eggs are remarkably -delicate, and when stewed with the meat the whole is very savoury.</p> - -<p>The natives make use of the lance in killing the saino and tatabra. They -usually form parties for the purpose, and never go singly; for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[Pg 374]</a></span>although -these animals will not attack a man who does not molest them, yet the -sainos when provoked are very desperate antagonists, and will attack -those who offend them. They make a hollow moaning noise, which leads the -natives to their feeding places, when they attack them with their long -lances; two or more men stand back to back, surrounded by these -poisonous brutes, and kill as many as they judge convenient; they then -pierce one on the back, when the rest immediately disperse to avoid the -smell. The tatabra is not so furious, and is an easier prey to the -huntsman.</p> - -<p>During my stay at Esmeraldas I was requested to go into the woods, about -a league and a half from the town, to see a great curiosity; not being -able to learn what it was, I went, and found the two hind quarters of a -full grown jaguar suspended from the trunk of a tree, into which the -claws were completely buried; all the fore parts appeared to have been -torn away, and fragments of it were scattered on the ground: the sight -astonished me, and I was not less surprized at the account which I -received from the natives. The jaguar, for the purpose of killing the -saino, on which it feeds, rushes on one of a herd, strikes it, and then -betakes itself to a tree, which it ascends, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[Pg 375]</a></span> fastening its hind -claws into the tree, hangs down sufficiently low to be able to strike -the saino with its paws, which having effected in a moment it draws -itself up again, to escape being hurt by the enemy. However, it appeared -that in this case the jaguar had been incautious, and the saino had -caught it by the paw, when the whole herd immediately attacked it, and -tore as much of it to pieces as they could reach.</p> - -<p>For taking birds the natives use a hollow tube of wood, from five to -eight feet long, called a <i>sorbetana</i>, or <i>bodojera</i>, the diameter of -the perforation being not more than half an inch; the dart used is -called <i>pua</i>, it is about seven or eight inches long, and very slender; -at one end a sharp point is cut, and it is notched round so as easily to -break off. This point is dipped in some poison, a small quantity of raw -cotton is wrapped round the pua, near the point, so as to fill the tube -into which it is put; the sportsman then applies his mouth to the tube, -gives a smart puff, and the pua is thrown to the distance of a hundred, -or a hundred and fifty yards, with an almost unerring certainty against -the object marked out, which in a moment falls to the ground and -expires. The poison used is brought from Maynas,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[Pg 376]</a></span> on the banks of the -Marañon, where it is procured from a vegetable. It probably owes its -poisonous quality to the quantity of prussic acid which it contains, -although it does not possess either the taste or odour of that acid. The -activity of this poison is so astonishingly great, that I have seen a -monkey while jumping from one tree or branch to another, if wounded with -the poisoned point of a pua not larger than a fine needle, fall to the -ground before it could reach the adjacent bough; and birds as large as -turkeys will fall from their perch without being able to throw -themselves on the wing. A small black spot is left in the flesh by the -poison, but the whole of the meat is uninjured for food.</p> - -<p>The natives use this poison as a purgative, and I was assured by several -who have taken it, that it operates very mildly; they always take it in -the form of a pill, carefully enveloped in a portion of the pulp of the -plantain, to prevent the possibility of its touching the gums, or any -lacerated part of the body, as death would almost inevitably be the -consequence. The only partial antidote known, when by accident a person -is wounded, is to eat a considerable quantity of sugar, and to this the -sportsmen have recourse after they have been employed for any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[Pg 377]</a></span> -considerable length of time with the sorbetana, as sometimes a swelling -of the lips is produced, which they suppose to be occasioned by inhaling -the contaminated air in the tube. As a defensive weapon the sorbetana -and poisoned pua are excellent; in the hands of these people they would -commit the greatest havoc, because they might be used in an ambuscade or -defile, without any noise or report; and the pua being almost invisible -in the air, an army ignorant of such missiles might be destroyed in the -same manner as a troop of monkeys, when one of which drops the rest -immediately flock to the spot, as if to examine the cause, and one after -another become the prey of the hunters.</p> - -<p>The dexterity with which the sorbetana is used is very great; but the -men are trained to it from their earliest infancy. Boys of three or four -years old have their tubes of a proportionate size, and use the puas -without poison, with which they shoot small birds: they also frequently -entertain themselves in the evening with shooting the wasps, which build -their nests under the eaves or floors of the houses. I have often been -astonished at the extraordinary precision with which the little naked -rogues direct the pua.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[Pg 378]</a></span></p><p>Although the natives are such expert marksmen, either with their almost -unerring throw of the lance, or aim with the sorbetana, they are -passionately fond of fire-arms, and will give almost the whole of what -they possess for a fowling-piece or musket, and this notwithstanding -their want of skill in its use.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[Pg 379]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Continuation of Esmeraldas, Fish caught in the River....<i>Chautisa</i>, -method of taking....Preserving of....Method of catching Fish in the -River....Of Cooking it....Yucas, Camotes, -Yams....Palmettos....Tobacco....Cocoa....New variety -of....Occupation of the Esmeraldeños....Origin -of....Language....Dress....Manners and Character -of....Religion....Re-ascend the Esmeraldas River, to the -Embarcadero de Maldonado....Mouth of the River....City of -Esmeraldas....Road to Atacames....Port of....Town -of....<i>Manzanillo</i>....Rio Verdo....La Tola....Country Produce, -Timber, and Wood....Coutchouc....Fruit....Palms....Animals....Mines....Conclusion.</p></blockquote> - -<p>In the Esmeraldas river and in many of the tributary streams there is a -variety of delicate fish, as well as in the sea on the neighbouring -coast. The most delicate in the rivers are the lisa, <i>dama</i>, <i>sabalo</i>, -and <i>sabalete</i>; in the sea the lisa, corbina, chita, mero, and tollo; -besides these there is a small fish resembling a shrimp, not half an -inch long, which makes its annual appearance in February, or in the -beginning of March; it is called <i>chautisa</i>, and is really a great -delicacy when prepared by the natives. The numbers which ascend the -rivers are so great, that on each side they appear to form a white path -in the water, about two feet broad, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[Pg 380]</a></span> several miles in length. The -women employ themselves in taking them, for which purpose they have a -canoe; two of them hold a piece of flannel three yards long by the -corners, and place it under the surface of the water, one end being a -little elevated to prevent the chautisa from passing, and when a -considerable quantity are collected the flannel is taken up and emptied -into the canoe, after which the operation is repeated. In the course of -two hours I have frequently seen from six to eight bushels taken in this -manner by three women. They are preserved by using as much salt as is -necessary to season them; they are then put into baskets lined with -leaves, and a large stone is placed on the top to press them into a -solid mass, like a cheese. After standing a day or two, the baskets are -placed on a frame made of canes, which is elevated about a yard from the -ground; they are then covered with plantain leaves, and a small fire of -green cedar, sandal, or other aromatic wood is kindled underneath, for -the purpose of smoking them. After remaining ten or twelve hours, the -cakes are taken out of the baskets, and again exposed to the smoke till -it has penetrated through them, when they are laid up for use. A small -portion of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[Pg 381]</a></span> smoked chautisa is generally added to fish while -cooking, to which it communicates a very delicate flavour: several -dishes are also prepared with the chautisa mixed with yucas, yams, and -other esculents.</p> - -<p>For fishing at sea the natives generally use hooks, but they have both -drag and cast nets made of pita, which are always dyed with annotta, -achiote. In the rivers they use the common means practised for taking -fish, besides which they sometimes make an enclosure of canes on the -side of the river, having a trap door so suspended that it can be -loosened by a person who hides himself at a short distance from the -trap. The decoy consists of a bunch of ripe plantains, suspended so as -just to catch the surface of the water: the fish, particularly the two -most delicate kinds, the sabalo and sabalete, enter to eat the -plantains, and when the watchman observes, either by the motion of the -rope to which the fruit is fastened, or from the splashing heard in the -water, that a quantity have entered the <i>corral</i>, he lets the trap door -fall, and takes the fish with a small net. I have been present when two -hundred fine fish have been caught in this way at one time.</p> - -<p>The most curious method used for catching fish is that which is -practised after night fall: a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[Pg 382]</a></span> man takes his small canoe and places in -the bow of it a large piece of lighted coutchouc, in order to attract -the fish; he then places himself behind the light and strikes them with -a small harpoon; and he is so very dexterous that he very rarely errs. -The sight of two or three canoes on the water at night, having their -large lights burning, and now and then reflected on the fisherman, or -silvering the rippled stream, is very pleasing. Many times have I -wandered along the margins of the river at Esmeraldas to witness this -scene, when the silence of the night was uninterrupted, except by the -lave of the waters gently splashing on the sandy shore.</p> - -<p>When a large quantity of fish is taken which is intended for sale the -natives preserve it with salt, but if it be destined for home -consumption they usually smoke it, particularly the sabalo and lisa, -which are very fat. One of the methods of cooking fish, and which is -practised here, is exceedingly good, preferable, I think, to any other. -After the fish is cleaned it is seasoned with a little salt, and the -pods of green capsicum; it is then rolled up in a piece of plantain, or -vijao leaf, and laid among the hot embers, or buried among the hot -ashes; when sufficiently done it is eaten off the leaf, and is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">[Pg 383]</a></span> -remarkably delicate, all the gravy and flavour of the fish having been -preserved by the leaf; cooked in this manner it is called <i>pandao</i>.</p> - -<p>The yucas, camotes, and yams cultivated at Esmeraldas and in the -neighbourhood are the finest I ever saw. It is not uncommon for one of -these roots to weigh upwards of twenty pounds. At one place I saw a few -plants of the yuca that had stood upwards of twenty years, the owner -having frequently bared the bottom of the plants and taken the ripe -roots, after which, throwing up the earth again and allowing a -sufficient time for new roots to grow, a continual succession of this -excellent nutritious food was procured.</p> - -<p>The palmito supplies the place of many of our European vegetables, and -is certainly far superior to the finest cabbage I ever ate. It is -particularly white, tender, and delicate, and greatly resembles the sea -kale. To procure them the top of a palm is cut down and opened, and the -white core or leaves are taken out, which constitute what is often -termed by travellers the cabbage, and the tree is known by the name of -the cabbage tree. As there is an abundance of coco-nut palms in the -neighbourhood, I one day had a tree cut down, and the palmetto taken -out; it measured four feet nine inches long, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[Pg 384]</a></span> eighteen inches in -circumference; when boiled it exceeded any vegetable I ever tasted; it -was perfectly white, tender, and delicately flavoured.</p> - -<p>Tobacco is cultivated here, and it is of an excellent quality: it is not -preserved in the leaf, but twisted into a small roll, and made into -parcels of about twenty ounces each, which sell from a quarter to half a -dollar the bundle: it finds a very ready market at Quito. Owing to the -expences of the administration of the royal rent or monopoly of tobacco -at Quito, the president and officers of the revenue declared it a free -trade. This news was welcomed by the natives with joy, and should the -newly constituted authorities allow it to remain free from restrictions, -its produce will be the source of great riches to the inhabitants of -this part of the country.</p> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/ib384b.jpg" alt="MALE and FEMALE INDIANS OF THE MALABA TRIBE" /></div> - -<p class="bold">MALE & FEMALE INDIANS OF THE MALABA TRIBE.</p> - -<p>The small quantity of cocoa that is grown in the province of Esmeraldas -is of the finest quality, and considered by many amantes del cacao to be -equally as good as the royal bean of Socomusco. A letter from the -governor of the mint at Mexico to Don Juan de Larrea was shewn to me at -Quito, stating, that a sample of the Esmeraldas cocoa having been sent -to him, the quality was so highly approved, that he and his friends -should be willing to purchase<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[Pg 385]</a></span> any quantity at twenty-five dollars the -arobo. At the same time the Guayaquil cocoa was selling at three and a -half dollars, and the best Caracas at five. The bean of the Esmeraldas -cocoa is very small compared with that of Guayaquil, not being above -one-third of the size: it is of a bright orange colour, and very heavy -from the large quantity of sebaceous matter which it contains. The -chocolate made from it preserves the same golden appearance, and is -extremely delicious. Another kind of cocoa is found here, called -<i>moracumba</i>; it is never cultivated by the natives, growing wild in the -woods: the tree is considerably larger than that of the theobroma cacao, -and has a very different appearance; but the pods grow to the stem and -large branches in the same manner, and have the same appearance as the -other; the beans under the brown husk are composed of a white solid -matter, almost like a lump of hard tallow. The natives take a quantity -of these and pass a piece of slender cane through them, and roast them, -when they have the delicate flavour of the cocoa. I have also seen them -bruise the bean after it had been well dried, and use the substance -instead of tallow in their lamps. This kind of cocoa, which I consider a -new<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[Pg 386]</a></span> variety, will undoubtedly when more known be mixed with the dry -cocoa of Guayaquil and other places, to which it will be a very great improvement.</p> - -<p>The occupation of the male part of the inhabitants consists in hunting, -fishing, and attending to their small plantations. Their maize is not of -the best quality, the grain is hard, and scarcely repays the care of the -planter, for cultivator I cannot call him. All the labour requisite is -merely to search for a piece of land unshaded by trees, or to cut down a -portion of these, plant the grain, observe when the young cobs begin to -appear, protect the plantation against the depredation of the monkeys, -agutis, and parrots, till the grain be ripe, and then to harvest it: -this is generally done about eleven weeks after the seed is put into the -ground. Four crops may be produced in one year, without either ploughing -or harrowing or scarcely any other labour. It is thus that the bountiful -hand of providence dispenses gifts in a country whose climate does not -suit hard labour, a blessing which the inhabitants of colder regions do -not enjoy. But they who choose may call the effects produced by these -gifts "the habitual indolence of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[Pg 387]</a></span> people," without contrasting the -sterility of the soil and climate of one country with the fertility of -that of another.</p> - -<p>The females at Esmeraldas are generally occupied in their household -concerns; however they assist in the labour of the plantations, and -usually accompany their husbands when fishing or hunting calls them far -from their home: in the canoes the women usually take the paddles when -proceeding down a stream; but they seldom or never use the pole, -<i>palanca</i>, when ascending. Although they assist the men in what may be -called their department, the reverse never happens, and a man would -consider himself degraded should he add a piece of wood to the fire, -assist in unlading a canoe of plantains, in distilling rum, or perform -any office connected with household concerns. I have seen a man and his -wife arrive at their dwelling with a cargo of plantains, camotes, &c.; -the man would step ashore, carrying his lance, throw himself into a -hammock, leave his wife to unload the canoe, and wonder at the same time -that his dinner was not ready, yet he would not stir either hand or foot -to hasten it.</p> - -<p>The natives of Esmeraldas, Rio Verde, and Atacames, are all zambos, -apparently a mixture of negroes and indians; indeed the oral<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[Pg 388]</a></span> tradition -of their origin is, that a ship, having negroes on board, arrived on the -coast, and that having landed, they murdered a great number of the male -indians, kept their widows and daughters, and laid the foundation of the -present race. If this were the case, and it is not very improbable, the -whole of the surrounding country being peopled with indians, it produces -a striking instance of the facility with which an apparently different -tribe of human beings is produced, for the present Esmeraldenos are very -different in their features, hair, colour, and shape, to the chino, or -offspring of a negro and an indian; these are commonly short and lusty, -of a very deep copper colour, thick hair, neither lank nor curled, small -eyes, sharpish nose, and well-shaped mouth; whereas the Esmeraldenos are -tall, and rather slender, of lightish black colour, different from that -called copper colour, have soft curly hair, large eyes, nose rather -flat, and thick lips, possessing more of the negro than of the indian, -which may be partly accounted for by the male parents having been -originally negroes; and the children, as I have already observed, -preserve more of the colour of the father than of the mother.</p> - -<p>The language of the Esmeraldenos is also entirely different from the -Quichua, which is the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[Pg 389]</a></span> general language of the indians; it is rather -nasal and appears very scanty of words; for instance, a woman is called -teona, a mare qual teona, a bitch shang teona, the word teona being -added to the name of the male. It is, however, not unharmonious, and -some of their native songs are not devoid of melody.</p> - -<p>The dress of the men is generally a pair of pantaloons of blue cotton, -dyed tocuyo, a white or blue shirt hanging loose on the outside of the -pantaloons, and a large straw hat. The women wear a piece of blue cotton -or woollen cloth wrapped round the waist, and reaching down to their -knees, also a shirt, or more commonly a handkerchief, having two of the -corners tied together at the back of the neck, while the handkerchief -hangs down before; when at work, or in their houses, both men and women -generally throw off the shirt. The children go about naked to the age of -eight or ten years. The manner of nursing their infants appeared very -strange; the child is placed on a piece of wood, in the shape of a -coffin lid, hollowed a little like a tray, and covered with a piece of -cotton cloth, on which the child is laid; it is then slightly covered -with another cloth, and lashed down with a tape or a piece of cord;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[Pg 390]</a></span> in -this manner they carry them from place to place under their arms, on -their heads, or in the bottom of their canoes, often placing a banana -leaf over them as a precaution against the scorching heat of the sun; in -their houses they have two loops of cord hanging from a cane nearly at -the top of the roof; the child is within these loops, and the whole -swings backward and forward and lulls it to sleep.</p> - -<p>The natives are shy with strangers, and particularly the females; they -are however very ingenuous, which to some people appears indecent; and -well it may, since cunning and craftiness are too often the handmaids of -a high degree of civilization. They appear particularly attached to -truth and honesty; their <i>yes</i> and <i>no</i> bear the exact value of the -words, and if at any time they are called upon to ratify them, or are -induced to think that they are not believed, they leave in a very abrupt -manner the person or the company. Their honesty is evinced by the -exposure of what they possess, and by leaving it thus exposed when they -go on their hunting and fishing parties. The houses, like those of the -Puná, are not only without doors and windows, but without walls, and the -only sign by which an inhabited house can be distinguished from an -uninhabited one is, that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">[Pg 391]</a></span> the steps of the ladder in the latter are -turned downwards, and no arguments whatever are sufficient to persuade -an Esmeraldeno to enter a house when the ladder is thus placed.</p> - -<p>It may with truth be asserted, that industry is certainly not a -prominent feature in their habits; but where a sufficiency is easily -procured, where luxury in food or clothing is unknown, where superiority -is never contended for, and where nature appears not only to invite, but -even to tempt her creatures to repose, why should they reject her offer. -The excessive exercise taken in hunting and fishing is certainly a -proof, that when exertion becomes necessary for the support of nature, -it is resorted to with as much alacrity as in other countries, where -labour is imposed either to support the pomp of superiority, or the -whims of fashion.</p> - -<p>In their persons and food the Esmeraldenos are particularly cleanly; -they are abstemious at their meals, and not inclined to habitual -intoxication. It is rare indeed to see them in this state, excepting -during the time of their festivals. They have a curious practice when -assembled at dinner: the men alone are seated, and the women hand to -them in small <i>tutumas</i> the <i>masato</i>; they all immediately rise, each -holding his cup; they then fill their mouths with the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[Pg 392]</a></span> beverage, and -turning round their heads over the right shoulder, they squirt the drink -through their teeth, after which they resume their seats. This I was -told was an offering to their departed friends. The cups being again -filled, the same ceremony once more takes place, and is a propitiatory -offering to the spirits of the air, a sort of supplication to protect -their plantations and cattle against the ravages of the wild beasts and -birds.</p> - -<p>All the natives call themselves Christians, but they seldom conform to -the ceremonies of the church, forming a very strong contrast to some -others of the same denomination, who are really only Christians in the -ceremonious part, and who are, I fear, more remote from loving God above -all things, than those indians are from loving their neighbours as -themselves. They are particularly superstitious. If a man be wounded by -accident with his own lance, he will break the staff, and send the head -to be again tempered by the blacksmith; if a hat fall into the water, -its owner immediately exclaims, "my hat instead of myself," and never -attempts to recover it; if the master of a house die, the remainder of -the family abandons it for ever, nor will any other individual occupy it -till the expiration of a year: but all these are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">[Pg 393]</a></span> harmless foibles, as -innocent in their practice as in their effects.</p> - -<p>Their number of diversions or entertainments is very small; after the -occupations of the day they generally retire to rest; the Sunday is to -the generality of them like any other day; but when they assemble at the -annual feasts in the town singing and dancing are very common. The music -which I heard among them, and the instruments which I saw in their -houses were novel to me, and are perhaps unique, except the drum; this -they make by fastening a piece of hog's skin over one end of a hollow -piece of wood, the other end is left open; the <i>chambo</i> is a hollow tube -about thirty inches long, and four in circumference, made of a soft kind -of wood, and pierced with small pegs of <i>chonta</i>, projecting in the -inside about half an inch; a quantity of small hard beans are put into -it, and the two ends are closed. The instrument is played upon by -holding it with both hands, one at each end, and shaking it, so that the -music produced is sometimes like that which is intended to imitate rain -on an English stage. The <i>marimba</i> is made by fastening two broad pieces -of cane together at the extremities, each from six to ten feet long; a -number of pieces of hollow cane are then suspended between these,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">[Pg 394]</a></span> from -two feet long and five inches in diameter, to four inches long and two -in diameter, resembling a gigantic pandean pipe; across the upper part -of these canes very thin pieces of chonta are laid, which rest on the -frame without touching the pipes, and these are slightly fastened with a -cotton thread; the instrument is suspended from the roof of the house, -and is generally played by two men, who stand on the opposite sides, -each having two small sticks, with knobs made of coutchouc, with which -they strike on the cross pieces of chonta, and different tunes are -produced, according to the size of the pendant tube of cane over which -the chonta is laid. Some marimbas are well made, and the diapason not -very irregular; rude as the instrument is, I have often been pleased -with the sound of it, especially when floating down a river, and my -palanqueros have sung their native airs to the tune. This instrument, -which is sometimes accompanied with a guitar, cheers the natives in -their revels, and is not unfrequently employed to wake their souls to -divine contemplation at high mass.</p> - -<p>After having remained a short time at the town, or city, for this title -has been conferred on it although it only contains (1809) ninety-three -houses, I ascended the river again to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[Pg 395]</a></span> the Embarcadero de Maldonado, for -the purpose of observing the labour and the time it would require. Our -canoe was fifteen feet long, and was manned with two palanqueros, who -with light poles about ten feet long impelled the canoe forward, always -keeping near the margin of the river; besides these I had with me my -servant and two soldiers, my bed and some provisions. I observed that on -an average the men worked nine hours in the twenty-four, and on the -sixth day we arrived at the Embarcadero, having been only fifty hours on -the passage; but the natives informed me that it generally took more -time, the current not being so rapid at this period of the year as at -others. The distance from the Embarcadero to Quito being eighteen -Spanish leagues might with the greatest ease be travelled even on foot -in two days. Thus in cases of emergency an express might be sent from -the city to the coast in three days, or perhaps less, and one from the -coast to the capital in five, even when the river is swollen; whereas -from Quito to Guayaquil, or vice versa, it requires at least seven days -in summer, and in winter it is often absolutely impossible to fix the -time. From Esmeraldas to Quito goods might be conveyed in six or seven -days, during the greater part of the year,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">[Pg 396]</a></span> while it requires eleven or -twelve days from Guayaquil during the dry season, and during the rainy -season it is impossible to carry them. I have been rather diffuse on -this point, but I consider it one of great importance at present (1825), -owing to the changes that have already taken place in this important -part of the ex-colonies, not only so far as regards the communication -between the coast and the capital, but because the locality and produce -of the province of Esmeraldas constitute it one of those that most -deserve the immediate attention of my speculative countrymen.</p> - -<p>On my return I examined the mouth of the river Esmeraldas, and found it -quite unfit for an anchorage, owing partly to its great depth in the -channel, which is a hundred and forty fathoms, and to a bar that extends -from the north shore, as well as to the rapidity of the current, which -runs at the rate of four miles an hour, even when the waters are low. -The mouth of the river is nine hundred and seventy yards wide; it is -situated in 51' N. lat. and 79° 35' W. long. and may be discovered at -the distance of six or seven leagues from the shore, by the colour of -the muddy water which runs from it, and marks the surface water of the -sea.</p> - -<p>Two leagues from the mouth of the river<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">[Pg 397]</a></span> stands the city of Esmeraldas; -it is on a rising ground, and most delightfully situated, enjoying a -much cooler temperature than what could possibly be expected in the -vicinity of the equator. This is probably caused by the coldness of the -waters of the river, which, as they flow, communicate a part of their -coolness to the atmosphere, and keep up a perpetual current of fresh -air. The town is entirely free from that great annoyance in most hot -climates, the mosquitos; owing perhaps to the total absence of marshy -land or swamps in its vicinity, and to the breezes, which, continually -blowing, are so destructive to those insects.</p> - -<p>A road through the woods leads from Esmeraldas to Atacames, a distance -of five leagues. Atacames is a little town near the sea, having a small -river of fresh water, which empties itself into the ocean on the south -side. A projecting headland forms a convenient roadstead, which has good -anchorage, and owing to the universal serenity of the weather the port -may be considered a safe one. Two leagues to the northward of this place -there is a high bluff headland, called Morro Grande, which with the -Morro de Atacames forms the bay, the best anchorage in which is under -the headland of Atacames. The landing on the beach close<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">[Pg 398]</a></span> to the town is -generally good, but when the contrary happens there is another and a -better to the westward of Atacames.</p> - -<p>The town is composed of about thirty houses, built like those of the -Puná, having only an upper story. The inhabitants employ themselves in -the cultivation of their chacras, scattered along the side of the small -rivulet of Atacames, which is generally navigable for canoes about five -leagues from the town. More attention has been paid here to the -cultivation of cocoa than at Esmeraldas, and considerable profit has -been derived from it. In 1805, an officer in the Spanish navy employed -several of the natives to fell timber for the Lima market, one small -cargo of which was exported, but through the interest of the Guayaquil -merchants the law of <i>puertos no abilitados</i>, close ports, was enforced, -and an end was put to the trade. The inhabitants of Atacames are of the -same race with those of Esmeraldas; but they do not speak the same -language—they make use of the Spanish, and consider themselves Spanish -population.</p> - -<p>Near the beach there are several very lofty coco-nut palms, and a great -abundance of lime trees, whence any quantity of their fruit or acid -might be obtained; but as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">[Pg 399]</a></span> trees are intermixed with the manzanillo, -the utmost precaution is necessary in order to prevent strangers from -poisoning themselves with the fruit. The tree is very similar to a low -bushy apple tree, and the fruit has the appearance of a small apple; but -it is so extremely poisonous, that if a person inadvertently taste it, a -universal swelling of the body and death are the inevitable -consequences. The poisonous qualities of this tree are so great, that if -any one incautiously avail himself of its shade, sickness ensues, and -death would follow should he sleep under it in the evening. When the -natives cannot obtain the poison from Maynas for their puas, they use -the sap of the manzanillo, procured by making incisions in the bark of -the tree; but the use of it is attended with considerable risk, and the -poison is not so certain to kill the game; besides, the natives are -averse to use game as food when killed by it.</p> - -<p>From Atacames to the mouth of the Esmeraldas river, a distance of four -leagues, goods might be conveyed and put on board canoes for their -passage up to the town, or to the Embarcadero, where, if the importance -of mercantile pursuits be duly considered by the government, facilities -may be given at a small expence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">[Pg 400]</a></span> to the navigation of this river. The -greater part of the south side is favourable to the formation of a road -as far as the confluence of the river Blanco with that called Piti.</p> - -<p>To the northward of the river Esmeraldas there are several small rivers -which empty themselves into the sea; and at the embouchures of each -there are a few houses. At the distance of seven leagues stands Rio -Verde, consisting of about twenty houses and a small chapel. The river -is navigable for canoes about eight leagues, is full of fish, and on its -banks are many houses and plantations. Seven leagues from Rio Verde is -the river Tola, and about two leagues from the mouth is the town of the -same name, containing about a hundred houses and a parish church. -Between the town and the sea there is a very extensive savana, on which -are kept upwards of five hundred head of horned cattle.</p> - -<p>When the road called de Malbucho was opened by the president of Quito in -1804, as a communication between the capital and the coast, this was -intended to have been the port; but on examination it was found, that -the mouth of the river was almost choked by a sand-bank, and a schooner -sent down by the Viceroy of Peru to examine the port foundered on the -bar. To the northward of La Tola there<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">[Pg 401]</a></span> is a convenient harbour, called -Limones, and another, at a short distance to the northward of this, is -called Pianguapi, or San Pedro; all these communicate by an estuary, -which receives its fresh water from the river Tola.</p> - -<p>The country adjoining the line of coast reaching from Atacames to La -Tola is entirely covered with wood of an excellent quality both for the -cabinet-maker and the architect; for the former the principal varieties -are the caobano, a species of mahogany, very large, and in great -abundance; ebony, cascol, a hard wood, completely black, and very large; -pusilde, of the colour and almost of the consistency of ivory; of this -wood they make billiard balls: there is also red sandal wood, of a -beautiful lively red colour, and very fragrant; the bark contains such -an abundance of aromatic resin, that when heated by the sun it exudes -and scents the air to the distance of five hundred yards from the tree. -The natives use the resin dissolved in rum to cure wounds. Here too is -the guayacan, of a green hue, with dark brown veins: this wood is -remarkably hard, the tree is very lofty and straight, and on this -account the natives generally choose it for the upright posts which -support their houses: when kept continually wet for eight or ten months -it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">[Pg 402]</a></span> petrifies, and it is a common thing for the natives to dig at the -foot of an old post, and break off pieces of the petrified wood for -flints.</p> - -<p>For architectural purposes timber grows in great luxuriance, and to an -extraordinary size. There is no doubt that ere long the dock-yard of -Guayaquil and the Peruvian markets must be supplied with guachapeli, -cedar, robles, a kind of oak, marias, balsams, laurels, and other trees -from the woods of Esmeraldas, which as yet may be said to be untouched.</p> - -<p>Besides the varieties just mentioned, there is an abundance of ceibos, -balsas, and <i>matapalos</i>, which are of an enormous size, and supply -timber for canoes and rafts. The matapalo, kill tree, is so called -because it entwines itself with any other trees that are near it, and by -depriving them of their sap, or preventing the circulation, destroys -them. I have seen several of these trees, which three feet above the -ground measured upwards of twenty-five feet in circumference. The wood -is soft and light, and of no other use than that to which it is applied -by the natives. A kind of gum exudes from the bark, or is drawn from it -by making incisions, and in many parts of Peru and Colombia is used as -an antidote for ruptures.</p> - -<p>The coutchouc tree is quite common in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">[Pg 403]</a></span> almost all parts of the forests; -it is large but not very lofty, and the wood is entirely useless; -however, the tree produces what is of much greater value to the natives: -the bark of the trunk is taken off and subjected to repeated washings; -they beat it with small stones until the fibres are regularly extended, -so that the whole is about one-eighth of an inch in thickness; it is -then dried, and used as a bed, sometimes as a curtain, a shelter in the -woods against the sun or rain, or as a sail for their canoes. Bark when -thus prepared is called a <i>damajagua</i>. Some of them measure two and a -half yards long and from one to two broad; the larger ones are sold for -three or four dollars each.</p> - -<p>The coutchouc, <i>jebe</i>, as it is called by the natives, is procured from -the tree by making incisions in the bark; the substance which exudes is -at first perfectly white and of the consistency of cream; it is received -in large calabashes, and allowed to remain a day,or two, in which time -it becomes thicker; it is then poured on the leaves of the plantain or -vijao, and again allowed to remain a day or two; it is afterwards made -up into rolls about a yard long and three inches in diameter. These -rolls constitute a considerable branch of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">[Pg 404]</a></span>commerce, and generally sell -at Esmeraldas for two dollars the dozen; but in the mines on the coast -of Chocó they sell for three times that sum. The coutchouc is used as a -substitute for candles: a roll of it is generally cut length-ways into -four parts, but before it is lighted the piece is rolled up in a green -vijao leaf, to prevent it from melting or taking fire down the sides.</p> - -<p>Oranges, limes, lemons, pine-apples, mameis, sapotes, nisperos, with all -the fruits mentioned at Guayaquil grow here in abundance, and some of -them to a state of great perfection. The madroño is a fruit peculiar to -this country; it is similar in shape and colour to a small lemon; the -pulp is white and of an agreeable sub-acid taste, enveloping three large -seeds.</p> - -<p>Many varieties of palms grow in the woods; the coco palm, the <i>palmito</i> -or cabbage palm, the coroso palm, which grows to the height of eighteen -or twenty feet. This tree has a trunk about three feet in circumference, -and is covered with an immense number of long slender prickles: the stem -to which the leaves are attached and the nuts are covered in the same -manner. An agreeable beverage is made from this palm, by boiling the -leaves and the stem to which the bunch of nuts is attached; it is at -first sweet,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[Pg 405]</a></span> but by fermentation it acquires a vinous taste. The nuts -are eaten while green and tender, and have a taste resembling that of -the green French olives; when ripe they have the appearance of ivory, -and are used at Quito by the sculptors for small busts, statues, or -images. The chonta palm is remarkably useful, the wood is extremely hard -and elastic, and of it the natives make bows, sorvetanas, puas, and -lances.</p> - -<p>The animals which are found in the woods are the jaguar, three varieties -of the cavia, four of monkeys, like those at Guayaquil, deer, tortoises, -iguanas, snakes as at Guayaquil, with the addition of the <i>dormilona</i>, -for whose bite the natives possess no antidote. Here is also the boa -constrictor, called by the natives <i>sobre cama</i>; however this tribe is -not numerous, and accidents seldom occur; the inhabitants generally take -care to have poultry and hogs about their houses, because these animals -are great enemies to the snakes. There are several varieties of ants and -bees; of the latter are two, one called the <i>moquingana</i>, which form -their nests by attaching them to the branches of the large trees; the -honey is very palatable, and the natives employ themselves in purifying -the wax, for which they find a good market at Quito; the other is the -<i>amonanas</i>, which make their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">[Pg 406]</a></span> nests under ground. To find these nests, -the natives, whenever they observe a number of the bees, besprinkle some -of the plants with molasses, and follow them when laden with it on their -return home; this generally leads to a discovery. Great quantities of -wax are procured from the nests; it is of a deep orange colour, but with -a little labour it is rendered very white.</p> - -<p>The province of Esmeraldas derives its name from a mine of emeralds -which is found at no great distance from the town; it may be approached -by ascending the river Bichile, which enters the Esmeraldas river on the -south side. I never visited it, owing to the superstitious dread of the -natives, who assured me, that it was enchanted and guarded by an -enormous dragon, which poured forth thunder and lightning on those who -dared to ascend the river. The existence of an emerald mine was proved -to me by the alcalde, who gave me three raw emeralds, which had been -found by his sons on the sand at the mouth of the river Bichile. Gold -mines exist in this province, there being scarcely a river in which gold -is not found among the sand on its shores: however none of them are -worked at present (1809).</p> - -<p>The importance of this part of South <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">[Pg 407]</a></span>America has induced me to be more -particular in its description than might appear necessary for a tract of -country almost uninhabited. Its capability of becoming of extensive -utility to the mercantile world, of forming the principal entrance to -the kingdom of Quito, and of vieing ere long with Guayaquil; its soil -and climate; the ease with which indians, from the well populated -provinces of Quito, might be procured for the formation of colonies; the -extensive markets both along the coast and in the interior for its -various productions, besides many branches well calculated for -exportation, must forcibly attract the attention of all those who are -inclined to speculate on the rising interests of the western parts of -the new world.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">[Pg 408]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Visit to Cayapas....Village....Inhabitants....Houses and -Furniture....Visit to the Malabas, Wild Indians....Arrival at the -Vijia....Interview with the Cacique, Family of....Tribe of the -Malabas....Tradition of the Origin of....Dress -of....Manners....Laws....Return to Cayapas....Visit -Tumaco....Description of....Barbacoas....Description of....Gold -Mines....Manner of Working them....Leave the Coast, Malbucho -Road....River Mira....<i>Puentes de Maroma</i>, and -<i>Taravitas</i>....<i>Piquigua</i>....Arrive at Ibarra, and Return to Rio -Verde and Esmeraldas....Ascend the River Quinindi....Boa -Constrictors....Santo Domingo de los Colorados....Indians....Dress....Houses....Food....Cocaniguas....Quito.</p></blockquote> - -<p>During my stay on the coast I visited the new village of Cayapas: it is -composed of indians, living entirely free from the controul of any -Spanish governor or any authority. So ignorant were they of the forms of -the Spanish administration, that they only considered the royal audience -to be superior to their own alcalde. They did not even know what the -royal audience was, and they repeatedly called me the royal audience, -having mistaken the expression of the lieutenant-governor of La Tola, -who told them the royal audience expected they would attend on me, and -procure for me whatever I might want.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">[Pg 409]</a></span></p><p>After a tedious journey up the river Tola, in a canoe, managed by four -indians, I arrived at New Cayapas, and was received by the alcalde, who -insisted on my taking possession of his baston, insignia of authority, -and retaining it as long as I remained with them: he ordered the indians -to obey me, and they advanced one after another to kiss the head of the -baston, and accompanied me to the house of the alcalde, which was -situated about thirty yards from the river side.</p> - -<p>Cayapas scarcely deserves the name of a hamlet, there being only a small -church, the house for the parish priest, and two others; but the -situation is most beautiful: the small river, navigable for canoes, the -rich foliage of the large trees which overhang it, the branches in some -parts meeting each other, the enormous banana leaves, the stately coco -palm, and the verdant gamalote, every where enrich the scene. Houses are -scattered along the sides of the river, each having its small plantation -of sugar-cane, yucas, and camotes, its hogs and its poultry.</p> - -<p>The indians are low in stature, very muscular, and of a lighter colour -than those of the interior. The dress of the men is a pair of drawers, -reaching from the waist to the middle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_410" id="Page_410">[Pg 410]</a></span> of the thighs, and sometimes a -poncho. The women have a piece of blue cloth wrapped round the waist, -which reaches down to their knees, and a profusion of glass beads hangs -round their necks; but the children to the age of eight or nine years -are all naked. Both men and women paint their bodies with achiote, to -which they sometimes add a few dots or stripes of indigo, manufactured -by themselves from the plant which grows wild in every part of the -country where the shade of the trees does not destroy it.</p> - -<p>The furniture of their houses is composed of a long bench made of canes, -which serves as a table, a sofa, or a bed; damajaguas, which serve as in -Esmeraldas, and the never-to-be-dispensed-with toldo, with curtains to -avert the attacks of the mosquitos at night. Their cooking utensils are -manufactured by themselves; their plates and dishes are the shells of -calabashes, their cups those of the tutuma, and their spoons of the -muscle: nature having thus provided them with the necessary equipage for -their food, in the same manner as she has with the ground for a table, -and the plantain leaves for cloths and napkins, which without any -expence may be renewed at every meal.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">[Pg 411]</a></span></p><p>The principal employment of the natives is hunting, fishing, and -cultivating their small patches of sugar-cane, yucas, camotes, and -gourds. From the leaves of the aloe they make very fine thread, pita, in -considerable quantities. This article is either sent to Quito or to the -coast, where it finds a ready market, and procures for the indians the -few clothes which they require, as well as salt, which is brought from -the Punta de Santa Elena, in large canoes, and piraguas, (canoes with -planked sides and a sail), by the inhabitants of La Tola, Atacames, and -other places.</p> - -<p>From the information which I had of the existence of a tribe of wild -indians, called Malabas, who reside on the river de San Miguel, which -joins that of Cayapas, I determined on visiting them, contrary to the -advice of my friends at La Tola. I accordingly requested a small canoe, -and two indians at Cayapas, and my request was reluctantly complied -with; however, on promising the alcalde a reward in the name of the -royal audience, I was equipped with what I wanted. Having with me a -considerable quantity of beads and hawks' bills, I was not afraid of -meeting with a kind reception: my servant declined accompanying me, and -remained at Cayapas.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">[Pg 412]</a></span></p><p>I left my friendly alcalde, in possession of his baston, at about five -o'clock in the morning, and began to ascend the river with my two -palanqueros, who sometimes were obliged to use a considerable degree of -exertion to stem the current with a canoe that only measured eleven feet -in length, and was barely sufficient to carry us; and it is certain that -had they not been very expert, and I very quiet, we should have been -frequently upset. At four o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at the -house of the <i>vijia</i>, or look-out, where we remained till the following -morning. An indian was immediately despatched to inform the Cacique that -a viracocha, white man, or child of the sun, had arrived with two -Cayapos, and wanted to see him. About ten o'clock the Cacique came in -his canoe, with the messenger that had been sent to him, and as the -language of the Malaba bears a strong resemblance to the <i>Quichua</i>, I -soon entered into conversation with him. I assured him, that mere -curiosity had led me to pay him a friendly visit, and in a short time -the old man was satisfied; we embarked together in his canoe, the two -Indians being ordered to wait my return at the vijia house.</p> - -<p>Before noon we arrived at the house of the alcalde, and found his family -highly delighted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413">[Pg 413]</a></span> at his return, for the poor fellow who was sent from -the vijia had informed them, that I was a strange looking man, in a -strange dress, and that I had told him I was neither a Spaniard nor a -Creole. Although this excited the curiosity of the alcalde, it did not -alarm him, because, said he, I have been at the Spanish town of -Cotacache, and know that all white men do not come from the same place: -<i>this</i> is perhaps as much as many travellers have to report when they -return from a grand tour. Question now followed question, without -waiting for answers; nor was the alcalde less teased than myself, it -being naturally inferred, that having been with me for two hours, he -must certainly know every thing about me. After allowing the noise to -continue for about half an hour, he ordered the females to retire, which -they did immediately. To my great surprise they went down the ladder -which we had ascended, after which they went up another at the back part -of the house; when I turned round, I observed that they were separated -from us by a division made of cane, three feet high above the floor, -where, with true female curiosity, they stood and listened, but never -spoke, except to one another in low whispers.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414">[Pg 414]</a></span></p><p>The Cacique and myself now seated ourselves on a damajagua, and four -young indians stood with their backs against the partition; I again -assured the old man that curiosity alone had induced me to visit him and -his people: he replied, that probably my <i>curiosity</i> had tempted me to -come in search of lavaderos, gold mines, or to request of him to receive -missionaries, or to force him to become tributary. Having protested that -nothing of the kind was meant, as my inquiries and conduct while among -them would evince, he begged of me to make myself happy, for I was -perfectly at liberty to remain or to leave them whenever I chose, and -that if I thought proper to send my two Cayapos home, two of his sons -should accompany me to Cayapas at any time. To this I very readily -acceded, although I did not intend to remain more than a day or two; but -I wished to tease my friends, who were anxious with regard to my safety, -and then to convince them of the goodness of man in a natural state.</p> - -<p>The tribe, at the head of which was Cushicagua, consisted of about two -hundred <i>ishcay huarango</i> families, living within the distance of two -leagues of his house; besides these he <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_415" id="Page_415">[Pg 415]</a></span>assured me that a great number -of tribes were scattered about the woods lying between the Spanish -settlements in the interior and those on the coast. This information -sufficiently accounted for the reports which I had several times heard -at Quito, of smoke having been repeatedly seen ascending from different -parts of the woods to the westward of Otavalo.</p> - -<p>According to the tradition of the Malabas, they and the other tribes -that inhabit the woods are descendants of the Puncays of Quito; and -although the Conchocando of Lican, the supreme chief of the territory -now called Quito, became the vassal of Tupac Yupangui, they were not -conquered by that prince, for he never passed the mountains towards the -coast; and since the conquest of the country by the Spaniards, although -the Cayapos solicited a Christian priest, and became tributary to the -whites, the Malabas have as yet lived quite independent.</p> - -<p>The dress of the men consists of a pair of wide drawers reaching from -the waist to about the middle of the thighs, of a purple hue, which tint -or dye they procure from the bark of a tree growing in the neighbouring -woods, known at Quito under the name of <i>grana ponciana</i>, and which when -known in Europe will undoubtedly become an article of commerce. The -women<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">[Pg 416]</a></span> are dressed in a very strange manner; a large piece of cotton -cloth is girded round the waist, two corners of the upper half cross the -breast, pass under the arms, are again brought over the shoulders, and -hang down in front almost to the waist; the two lower corners pass -between the legs, and are fastened to the back part; the whole body is -covered, and the appearance altogether is not ungraceful; the colour of -this garment is generally brown: the women have their ears perforated, -but instead of rings they use small bunches of the most beautiful -feathers they can procure, wearing another tuft of the same on their -heads. In the same manner the men often place three or four feathers -from the wing of the parrot in the <i>wincha</i>, an ornamented piece of -leather which they wear tied round their heads; both men and women -ornament their bodies with achiote, and some of the latter very -tastefully.</p> - -<p>Nothing could exceed the joy which these people evinced when after my -first meal with them I borrowed a pair of drawers of one of the young -men, and putting off my own clothes I substituted the drawers, and -requested the females to paint me: to this the Cacique consented, and -they immediately descended their own ladder, and ascended the other; -after a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417">[Pg 417]</a></span> great deal of laughter, and some disputes as to the beauty of -the figures drawn on my body with this red unctious matter, I was -complimented with a kiss from each of my <i>damas del tocador</i>, and told, -that if I were not so white I should be very handsome. I returned the -kindness which I had received by distributing among the females beads, -bells, and combs; I also gave to Cushicagua my spoon, knife, and fork, -and to the young men two glass bottles. My watch was the cause of -universal astonishment, the motion of the seconds' hand when lying on -the floor astounded them, conceiving that while I held the watch in my -hand I communicated the motion to it: when I applied the watch to their -ears their amazement was expressed in the most boisterous manner—they -shouted and jumped, and then listened again! and at last it was -concluded that I had a bird shut up in the little case, and that it was -endeavouring to release itself by pecking a hole. I then opened it, and -every one as he peeped laughed, and exclaimed, <i>manan, manan, chy -trapichote</i>—no, no, it is a sugar-cane mill, this being the only piece -of machinery they had ever seen, and the only resemblance consisted in -its rotatory motion.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">[Pg 418]</a></span></p><p>These Indians have two meals a day, one in the morning the other in the -evening, composed chiefly of plantains, bananas, yucas, camotes, a -little flesh meat procured in the woods, and fish, of which there is a -great abundance in the river, to catch which they use the same means as -the Esmeraldeños.</p> - -<p>I asked the old Cacique what crimes he had to punish among his subjects; -he told me, very few: theft he punished, he said, by taking from the -thief double what he had stolen, which he gave to the person injured; if -the thief could not satisfy the fine, he was delivered to the plaintiff -as a slave until his services might satisfy the claim. Adultery he -punished by obliging the man to maintain the woman as long as the -husband might think proper, or else by keeping him in the stocks, which -were under the house, till the husband begged his release. Murder, said -he, never happens among us; and all small crimes I punish by flogging -the criminals myself.</p> - -<p>After remaining two days I left the Cacique of the Malabas, and returned -to Cayapas, his two sons being my palanqueros or canoe men. On leaving -him, he begged of me to send him some salt, which is very scarce among -them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419">[Pg 419]</a></span>, and that when I was tired of living among the whites to come and -live at Malaba, assuring me, that I should have one of his daughters for -a wife, and be the Cacique. When I stood on the river side all the -females came to me and kissed me, and as the canoe floated down the -stream they all joined in a farewell ditty, which was answered by my two -young Indians. Nature claimed her tribute, and I paid it: I turned my -face to wipe away my tears, and blushed that I was ashamed at shedding -them.</p> - -<p>On my arrival at Cayapas, I found that the cura of the Tola, on hearing -of my trip to Malabas, had come up to Cayapas with my four soldiers, -with the intention of demanding me of the Cacique; however, to his great -joy, my arrival made this unnecessary: his surprize, and that of my -soldiers and servant at seeing me step ashore in the garb of a Malaba -cannot be expressed: to complete the costume I had borrowed the lance, -made of chonta, of one of the indians. I sent to the kind Cacique -Cushicagua as much salt as the canoe could carry, and gave some trifles -to his two sons, who took leave of me in a very tender manner: they came -to me separately, and each laying his hands on my shoulders, kissed my -breast and retired. How easily such men might be reduced to what<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">[Pg 420]</a></span> is -called civilized society! But would they be benefited by it? Would they -be more virtuous? Would they be more happy?</p> - -<p>From Cayapas I returned to La Tola, and thence proceeded by the estuary -of Limones to Pianguapi, and crossing a small gulf I arrived in the -evening at Tumaco. This is an island in the bay, called Gorgona, which -takes its name from that of the Cacique Gorgona, who governed the island -on the first arrival of the Spaniards. The bay has a very good anchorage -for small vessels, but large ones generally anchor at the outer -roadstead, called el Morro. The island of Tumaco is about two miles long -and one broad, remarkably fruitful, and well cultivated, abounding in -tropical fruit trees. The town is formed of about a hundred houses; they -stand on the western side of the island, facing the anchorage, and -present a very beautiful view. The inhabitants are generally mulattos, -but call themselves Spaniards. It is the residence of a -lieutenant-governor, and is of itself a parish. Besides the island of -Tumaco there are in the same bay the islands called el Viudo, la Viuda, -el Morro, and Placer de Pollas. The river Mira enters the sea here at -three embouchures, called Boca Grande, Rio Claro, and Mira.</p> - -<p>Tumaco is the sea-port to the city and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_421" id="Page_421">[Pg 421]</a></span>province of Barbacoas, which is -approached by an estuary; at the head of this the canoes are dragged -across a piece of low ground, called el Arrastradero, and then launched -in the river which leads to Barbacoas, called el Telembi.</p> - -<p>Barbacoas was founded in the year 1640 by the Jesuit Lucas de la Cueva, -who was a missionary sent from Quito for the conversion of the tribe of -indians called Barbacoas. After some time it was discovered that the -sand along the side of the river contained grains of gold: this induced -several persons to settle in the neighbourhood, and to employ themselves -in collecting the precious metal. Their success brought down others from -Quito and different parts of the interior, and a town was formed, which -was afterwards honoured with the title of city.</p> - -<p>The climate of Barbacoas is extremely warm, and the rains continue -during the greater part of the year, so as to preclude the cultivation -of the land; hence all kinds of provisions are extremely dear, the -supplies being chiefly brought from the Province de los Pastos on the -shoulders of men, because it is impossible in the present state of the -road for any beast of burthen to travel; and so accustomed are the -carriers to their laborious way of living, that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_422" id="Page_422">[Pg 422]</a></span> when, in 1804, it was -proposed to open a road, those men used all their influence to oppose -the execution of the plan; and as it was not of any pecuniary importance -to the Government, it was abandoned.</p> - -<p>Among the inhabitants of Barbacoas are some very respectable families, -and many rich ones, all of which are employed in the lavaderos; but the -principal labour is done by negro slaves, who are here treated with -greater cruelty by their masters than in any other part of the colonies -that I visited; nakedness is of little importance to them in such a -climate, but hunger in all countries requires the antidote, food, and -this is really distributed to them very sparingly.</p> - -<p>The city is the capital of the province of the same name, and the -residence of the lieutenant-governor. Here is also a <i>casa de -fundicion</i>, where the gold which is collected at the lavaderos is -melted, and where it pays the royal fifth. It is also the residence of -the vicar of the province, who exercises the ecclesiastical jurisdiction -of the whole coast belonging to the bishopric of Quito; the cabildo has -six regidores, and two alcaldes annually elected.</p> - -<p>I returned from Barbacoas to Tumaco, and thence to La Tola, but before I -took my <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423">[Pg 423]</a></span>departure for Quito, by the road of Malbucho, I went to the -Playa de Oro, a gold mine belonging to the Valencias. At that time -(1809) this was one of the most popular mines, and I visited it for the -purpose of observing the manner of working them on a large scale, which -I had not then seen.</p> - -<p>I have already mentioned, that the gold is found in a stratum of yellow -or orange-coloured earth, of different dimensions, but seldom more than -five or six feet deep, the inferior limit being a stratum of indurated -clay, called by the miners <i>laxa</i>. The first object after the site is -selected is, to form an embanked reservoir at the highest part of the -<i>capa</i> or stratum, for the purpose of collecting the rain water; the -next is to throw aside all kinds of rubbish to the lateral limits of the -stratum; the slaves then begin to dig the ground or pick it over, -throwing aside all the large stones, after which the water which is -collected is allowed to run over the ground, while the slaves are -employed in forming with it and the earth a kind of puddle; after this -the stones and rubbish are again collected and separated, the water is -turned on, and in its course washes away the earth: these operations are -performed till the laxa begins to appear. The water is then conducted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424">[Pg 424]</a></span> -along the sides by small channels cut for this purpose, and it is kept -running along the sides while the slaves are continually stirring it, so -that the earth is carried off by the water. When the whole is nearly -washed away the laxa is carefully swept, and every small crevice closely -examined, and a small channel is formed along the middle of the -lavadero, where the water is allowed to run down it; but particular care -is necessary not to make any perforations in the laxa or indurated clay, -as it might be the cause of a great loss of gold. The last washing is -generally performed in the presence of the master, as the larger grains, -<i>pepitas</i>, begin to be visible. After all the earth has been separated -by the repeated washings, the gold mixed with sand, iron sand, and -platina, is swept into the small channel, and collected by placing a -piece of board across it at a short distance from the reservoir, and -allowing a small portion of water to run for the purpose of cleaning out -all the crevices; the first quantity is then put into a trough or canoe, -and carried to the house of the miner; and another operation similar to -the last takes place with another portion of the earth, and so on till -the whole of the gold is collected. After the miner has allowed what was -carried to his house to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_425" id="Page_425">[Pg 425]</a></span> dry, he then spreads it on a table, and with a -loadstone or magnet he separates from it all the iron sand, which is -always very abundant, and placing the gold, platina, and sand in a -shallow trough, he allows a small stream of water to pass over it, -keeping the trough in motion till the water has washed away the sand. -The last operation is to separate the gold from the grains of platina, -which is done with a small stick, a pen, or a piece of wire, with which -the platina is picked from the gold. Owing to the enormous duty imposed -by the Spanish government on the platina, which rendered it almost -invaluable, the miners usually throw it away.</p> - -<p>After visiting Playa de Oro I left the coast, and proceeded on my -journey towards Quito. The first part of the road is by the river Tola -to Carondolet, or Naris de Peña, which was formerly the name of the -landing place. The river is not so rapid as that of Esmeraldas; but it -has the disadvantage of being so shallow near a place called the -Porquera, that loaded canoes are forced to stop there, or unload, pass -the sand banks, and load again. Carondolet is a small village, bearing -the name of its founder; from this place a road forty feet wide was -opened to Malbucho, a small village at the foot of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_426" id="Page_426">[Pg 426]</a></span> Cordilleras, -thirteen leagues from Carondolet; <i>tambos</i>, or lodging-houses, are built -on the road, four leagues from each other, and at Licta, four leagues -from Malbucho, two negroes and their families, belonging to the -government, are stationed in charge of the repairs of the tambos.</p> - -<p>Owing, as I have before mentioned, to the inadvertency of cutting down -the large trees for the formation of this road, the brush-wood sprang up -with increased vigour, and the roots of the large trees produced -numberless young suckers, so that in a very short period what was -intended as a road became quite impassable, and was entirely abandoned -by travellers.</p> - -<p>At Licta the river Mira presents itself on the north side of the road, -dashing along with astonishing rapidity, while a dense mist rises from -the foam; in some places the river is six hundred feet wide, and in -others, where the rocks have opposed its ravages, it is not more than -one hundred. The Mira derives its first waters from the lake San Peblo, -and afterwards receives those of Pisco, Angel, Taguanda, Escudillas, -Caguasqui, and Chiles, which flow from the mountains of Pelliso; it -afterwards receives those of Camunixi, Gualpi, Nulpi, and Puelpi, and -enters the Pacific Ocean by nine mouths, between the Point de Manglares -and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_427" id="Page_427">[Pg 427]</a></span> Tumaco. The Mira divides the province of Esmeraldas from that of -Barbacoas.</p> - -<p>On the sides of the river Mira there are many farms and plantations of -sugar cane, scattered along from the Villa de Ibarra to San Pedro, and -on the north side there are many small houses and plantations, even -lower down the river, and as the road is on the south side, the natives -have to avail themselves of <i>puentes de maroma</i>, and <i>taravitas</i>. The -puentes de maroma, or swing bridges, I have described at Cochas, on a -general principle, but those used to cross the Mira are merely for foot -passengers; they are formed of the stems of the creeper called piquigua, -which are generally about half an inch in diameter, and sometimes from -fifty to a hundred yards long; they generally spring up under large -trees, or creep up the trunk and along the branches, and hang down again -to the ground, but do not take root; they then ascend another, or -perhaps the same tree again, or, carried by the wind, stretch along from -a branch of one tree to that of another; so that where they are common, -the trees in a forest have the appearance of the masts of ships with -their rigging. The stem is remarkably fibrous and tough, and for the -purpose of constructing bridges, it is first beat,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428">[Pg 428]</a></span> and then twisted, by -which means it forms a kind of cord, and five, six or more of these -combined make a rope, the duration of which is almost indefinite, for -the age of some of the bridges across the Mira is unknown. Some of these -puentes de maroma are from one to two hundred feet long, and only three -feet wide; the bottom is generally covered with pieces of bamboo, -<i>huadhua</i>, laid crosswise; hand ropes made of piquigua are also fastened -to the side of the bridge to prevent passengers from falling into the -river; this would otherwise be inevitable from the motion of the bridges -when any one crosses them, for some of them not only spring under the -feet, but by hanging loose they swing; the ends are generally fastened -to trees standing near the river side, or else to large posts placed for -this purpose. I have seen some of these puentes formed just like a -ladder; and they are crossed by stepping from one bar to another, with -the assistance of one hand rope, while a foaming stream is roaring at -the depth of eighty or a hundred feet below.</p> - -<p>The <i>taravitas</i> are formed by securing the two ends of a rope, generally -made of raw hide, but sometimes of piquigua, to rocks, trees, or posts, -on the opposite sides of the river, the rope passing either over a -pulley, or through a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429">[Pg 429]</a></span> ring; to this they attach another rope, which -first passes through a pulley or ring fastened on each side the river; -to the pulley or ring, on the large rope, a basket made of raw hide is -suspended, and is called a <i>capacho</i>; in this a person stands, and by -pulling the small rope he drags himself along, or else he is drawn -across by persons stationed on the other side of the stream; all kinds -of goods are passed over in this manner, and for horses or cattle slings -are used, being suspended by a hook to the ring or pulley.</p> - -<p>Having arrived at Ibarra, circumstances obliged me to return to the -coast; I sent my escort to Quito, being perfectly satisfied that a -military guard was quite unnecessary, and taking two guides, I crossed -by an almost unfrequented route some extensive forests to the mine of -Cachiyacu, belonging to Don Pedro Muños. This is a gold mine similar to -Playa de Oro, situated on the sides of a small river, whence the mine -derives its name. I here added another guide to my party, and by a -solitary path arrived at the Rio Verde, about two leagues from the -mouth, where it empties itself into the Pacific Ocean. I proceeded on to -Esmeraldas, and ascended the river to the mouth of the Quinindi, for the -purpose of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430">[Pg 430]</a></span> exploring the road from Santo Domingo de los Colorados to -Quito. The river Quinindi is navigable for small canoes; it is generally -about fifteen feet wide, the current neither rapid nor deep, and it -abounds with excellent fish. To my great surprize and delight, on -entering the mouth of this river, I saw two boa constrictors basking on -a sand-bank, very near to the edge of the water, and we passed them at -the distance of about twenty feet. One appeared to be at least -twenty-five feet long, the other about half that length. They were both -of them in the most beautiful posture that can be imagined, their heads -raised, and their bodies forming festoons, or arches; those formed by -the greater one were six, the largest in the centre being about two feet -high; the smaller formed only five arches, and these much lower than the -other. Their colours were a most brilliant yellow, a deep green, and -stripes along the back of a dark brown hue. The tremulous motion of -these animals, occasioned probably by the posture in which they had -placed themselves, gave to their colours a most imposing effect; the -brilliancy was heightened too by the rays of the sun darting full upon -them; I felt as if under a charm, and I sat gazing on them in a -transport of delight for more than<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431">[Pg 431]</a></span> half an hour. Two African negroes -and my servant, a native of Quito, were almost frantic with fear; but -the two Esmeraldeños, my palanqueros, expressed no other emotion than -that of sorrow, at not being prepared to kill them, and to smoke their -flesh, which, certainly, if as good eating as that of other snakes which -I had several times tasted, was a great loss to them.</p> - -<p>As we passed along the river almost innumerable monkeys of the small -brown kind crowded the tops of the trees, dinning our ears with their -unceasing chattering, and throwing down leaves upon us till the surface -of the river was nearly covered; however the two Esmeraldeños with their -sorbetanas killed upwards of fifty, out of which we chose the fattest, -and made an excellent dinner, selecting it in preference to any of the -dried provisions which I had with me. On the second day after our -entrance on the Quinindi we landed, and in three hours arrived at the -house of the cura of Santo Domingo de los Colorados.</p> - -<p>The settlement or reduction of the Colorados is merely the house of the -cura, and a small church; the indians live dispersed in different parts -of the surrounding woods, generally on the banks of the small rivers, -and only appear<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_432" id="Page_432">[Pg 432]</a></span> on the Sundays and holidays at mass. These indians, -like the Malabas and Cayapos, trace their origin to the times of the -Conchocandos of Lican: they also state, that they were never subject to -the Incas, and only to the Spaniards within the last thirty years -(1810). They are not tributary, but each indian from the age of eighteen -pays one dollar annually to the parish priest, who has no other stipend. -Including the two annexed <i>semi paroquias</i> of San Miguel and Cocaniguas, -the curacy contains about three thousand indians, but the curate seldom -receives more than eight hundred dollars a year, or rather the amount of -eight hundred. The indians always pay their quota in raw wax, at half a -dollar a pound, which is sent to Quito for sale; but a considerable -profit is derived from it, because it is worth a dollar a pound when -purified.</p> - -<p>The indians of Santo Domingo are called red <i>colorados</i> from the -quantity of achiote with which their bodies are besmeared; in their -persons they resemble the Malabas; the dress of the men is composed of a -pair of very short white drawers, and a white poncho about -three-quarters of a yard square; their hair is cut round and hangs like -a mop, but it is confined to the head with a fillet of silver lace, or a -thin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_433" id="Page_433">[Pg 433]</a></span> slip of sheet silver; round their necks, the small part of their -arms, and below their knees, they wear other slips of silver, about an -inch broad, and to the lower edge a great number of small silver drops -hang loose, forming altogether a very pleasing appearance. The women -wear a piece of flannel or cotton cloth, wrapped round the waist, and -reaching below the knees, with a profusion of beads round their necks, -wrists, and ankles; white and pale blue glass beads are held in great -estimation among them; they plat their hair in long tresses, and allow -them to hang loose.</p> - -<p>The houses of the indians at Santo Domingo are very similar to the sheds -which my carriers used to make in the woods for a night's shelter; being -nothing better than a few slender poles placed in a slanting position, -supported by others, like the roof of a house, having only one side -covered to exclude the rain.</p> - -<p>These indians cultivate capsicum, aji, to a very large extent, and find -a ready market for it at Quito, where they also carry fruit, fresh fish -caught in the rivers, and wax taken from the nests of the Moquingana -bees. Their food is principally composed of plantains, ground nuts, -maize, yucas, fish, and game.</p> - -<p>From Santo Domingo I pursued my route to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434">[Pg 434]</a></span> Quito, passing through -Cocaniguas, and crossing the southern skirts of Pichincha by the Alto de -San Juan, having, in three months, traversed the forests lying between -the capital and the coast, in search of a new road of more easy -communication between these two places than that from Guayaquil. The -road recommended by Don Pedro Maldonado is undoubtedly the best in every -respect, and I have since had the satisfaction to know, that my report -has hastened the opening of it, which will add greatly to the advantage -of the inhabitants, to the ease and convenience of travellers, and will -facilitate the carriage of merchandize; so that I may hope that I have -added my mite towards increasing the prosperity of one of the richest -capitals of the new world, by assisting to produce the means by which -its intercourse may be rendered more easy and expeditious with the old.</p> - -<p class="center space-above">END OF VOLUME II.</p> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Historical and descriptive narrative -of twenty years' residence in South America (Vol 2 of 3), by William Bennet Stevenson - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RESIDENCE IN SOUTH AMERICA *** - -***** This file should be named 55777-h.htm or 55777-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/7/7/55777/ - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Martin Pettit and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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