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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..407cf5f --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #55775 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/55775) diff --git a/old/55775-8.txt b/old/55775-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 9437dfb..0000000 --- a/old/55775-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9804 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Historical and Descriptive Narrative of -Twenty Years' Residence in South America (Vol 1 of 3), by William Bennet Stevenson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Historical and Descriptive Narrative of Twenty Years' Residence in South America (Vol 1 of 3) - Containing travels in Arauco, Chile, Peru, and Colombia - with an account of the revolution, its rise, progress, and - results - -Author: William Bennet Stevenson - -Release Date: October 19, 2017 [EBook #55775] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RESIDENCE IN SOUTH AMERICA *** - - - - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Martin Pettit and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -+-------------------------------------------------+ -|Transcriber's note: | -| | -|Obvious typographic errors have been corrected. | -| | -+-------------------------------------------------+ - - -[Illustration: VIEW OF CALLAO, AND DISTANT VIEW OF LIMA. - -_Engraved for Stevenson's Narrative of South America._] - - - - -A - -HISTORICAL - -AND - -DESCRIPTIVE NARRATIVE - -OF - -TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCE - -IN - -SOUTH AMERICA, - -_IN THREE VOLUMES_; - -CONTAINING TRAVELS IN ARAUCO, CHILE, PERU, AND COLOMBIA; - -WITH AN ACCOUNT OF - -THE REVOLUTION, ITS RISE, PROGRESS, AND RESULTS. - -BY W. B. STEVENSON, - -FORMERLY PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE PRESIDENT AND CAPTAIN GENERAL OF QUITO, -COLONEL, AND GOVERNOR OF ESMERALDAS, CAPTAIN DE FRAGATA, AND LATE -SECRETARY TO THE VICE ADMIRAL OF CHILE,--HIS EXCELLENCY -THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD COCHRANE, &c. - -VOL. I. - -LONDON: - -HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO. - -CONSTABLE & Co. AND OLIVER & BOYD, EDINBURGH. - -MDCCCXXV. - - -TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE - -RIGHT HON. THOMAS LORD COCHRANE, - -Marquis of Maranham, - -AS A TESTIMONY OF RESPECT FOR THE IMPORTANT SERVICES - -RENDERED TO - -SOUTH AMERICAN EMANCIPATION, - -AND TO THE COMMERCIAL INTERESTS OF GREAT BRITAIN, - -THIS WORK - -IS (BY PERMISSION) HUMBLY DEDICATED. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The interest which the late successful revolution in Spanish America has -awakened in Europe renders any genuine account of the new world so -highly acceptable to the British nation, that it has become an almost -imperative duty in those who may possess original matter to communicate -it to the public; for it may be said, without the least exaggeration, -that although the countries thus emancipated were discovered in the -sixteenth century, they have remained almost unknown till the beginning -of the nineteenth. - -Fully convinced of these facts, and being urged by my friends, when I -was on the eve of again crossing the Atlantic, to publish my collection -of notes and memoranda--the gleanings of a twenty years' residence--in -order to contribute my quota to the small stock of authentic matter -already laid before an anxious public, I have been induced to postpone -my voyage, and to embody my observations in the manner in which they now -appear. - -It is undoubtedly of great importance to become acquainted with the -features of a country which has undergone any remarkable change in its -political, religious, or literary career, before that change took place; -and it is equally important to know the cause of and the means by which -the change was effected. I have therefore given a succinct history of -the state of the colonies before their fortunate struggle began to -germinate, by describing their political and ecclesiastical -institutions; the character, genius, and education of the different -classes of inhabitants; their peculiar customs and habits; their -historical remains and antiquities; and lastly, the produce and -manufactures of the country. - -My opportunities for obtaining materials for the formation of this work -were such as few individuals even among the natives or Spaniards could -possess, and such as no _foreigner_ could possibly enjoy at the period -of my residence. - -Dr. Robertson's celebrated history renders any account of the discovery -and conquest of America unnecessary; but as the Spanish authors from -whom his work was collected always kept in view the necessity of lulling -the anxiety of general curiosity with respect to the subsequent state of -the countries under the Spanish crown, that work cannot be supposed to -be better than the materials from which it is formed would allow; to -which I may add, that the different books published by the philosophic -Humboldt are too scientific, and enter into too few details, to become -fit for general perusal. - -I am induced to believe, that my descriptions of tribunals, corporate -bodies, the laws, and administration, the taxes and duties, will not be -considered unimportant, because the newly-formed governments will follow -in great measure the establishments of Spain, modified by a few -alterations, perhaps more nominal than real. Indeed, the present -authorities have already determined, that so far as the Spanish codes do -not interfere with the independence of the country, they are to be -considered as the fundamental laws of the different tribunals. - -The Plates are from original Drawings taken by Don Jose Carrillo, a -native of Quito, now in England. - -Should the following pages merit the approbation of the British public, -the author will feel highly gratified by having fulfilled his duty in -both hemispheres; nor will this reward in the old world be accounted -less honourable than that which he has already obtained in the new. - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOL. I. - - PAGE -CHAP. I.--Arrival at Mocha....Some Account of Mayo, one -of the Cape de Verd Islands touched at on our Passage.... -Description of Mocha, its Productions, &c....Leave Mocha -and land at Tucapel Viejo....Description of the Indians, -their Dress, &c....Indians take me to their Home.... -Description of the House, Family, Food, Diversions.... -Appearance of the Country....What Trade might be introduced 1 - -CHAP. II.--Leave Tucapel Viejo, and arrive at Tubul....Description -of our Breakfast on the road....Stay at the House of the Cacique -of Tubul....Some Appearances of Civilization....Game of Peuca, -Wrestling, &c....Anchorage, Trade, &c....Face of the -Country....Arrival at Arauco....Taken to the Commandant -Interview described....Town of Arauco....Indians who come to -barter....Weaving of fine _ponchos_....Excursion to the -Water-mills on the Carampangue River....Entertainments, -_Mate_, &c....Visit Nacimiento, Santa Juana, and return -to Arauco....Ordered to Conception 20 - -CHAP. III.--Account of Cultivation of Farms, &c. in Araucania.... -Thrashing, &c....Produce....Cattle....Locality.... -Topographical Divisions....Government (Indian).... -Laws and Penalties....Military System....Arms, Standards, -&c....Division of Spoil....Treaty of Peace.... -Religion....Marriages....Funerals....Spanish Cities -founded in Araucania....Ideas on New Colonies....Commerce 40 - -CHAP. IV.--Valdivia....Port....Fortifications....River.... -City-foundation....Revolutions....Inhabitants....Garrison.... -Government....Rents and Resources....Churches.... -Exiles....Missions in the Province of Valdivia....War -with the Indians, and Possession of Osorno....Extract -from a Letter in the Araucanian Tongue, and Translation 67 - -CHAP. V.--City of Conception de Mocha....Foundation.... -Situation....Government....Tribunals....Bishop.... -Military....Churches....Houses....Inhabitants and -Dress....Provincial Jurisdiction....Produce....Throwing -the _Laso_....Fruit....Timber Trees....Shrubs....Mines.... -Birds....Wild Animals....Lion Hunt....Shepherd Dogs -....Breeding Capons....Return to Conception 82 - -CHAP. VI.--Sent to Talcahuano....Description of the Bay -and Anchorage....Plain between Conception and Talcahuano.... -Prospectus of a Soap Manufactory here.... -Coal Mine....Town, Custom-house, Inhabitants, &c.... -Fish, &c. caught in the Bay....Colonial Commerce.... -Prospectus of a Sawing Mill 118 - -CHAP. VII.--Leave Talcahuano in the Dolores....Passage -to Callao....Arrival....Taken to the Castle....Leave -Callao....Road to Lima....Conveyed to Prison 130 - -CHAP. VIII.--Lima, Origin of its Name....Pachacamac.... -Foundation of Lima....Pizarro's Palace....Situation of the -City....Form of the Valley Rimac....River....Climate.... -Temperature....Mists and Rain....Soil....Earthquakes....Produce 143 - -CHAP. IX.--Viceroys and Archbishop of Lima....Viceroyalty, -Extent....Viceroy's Titles and Privileges....Royal Audience.... -Cabildo....Forms of Law....Military....Religion.... -Inquisition....Sessions and Processes....Archbishop.... -Royal Patronage....Ecclesiastical Tribunals....Chapter, -_Cabildo Ecclesiastical_....Curates....Asylum of Immunity -....Minor Tribunals...._Consulado_....Crusade....Treasury -....Accompts...._Temporalidades_, _Protomedicato_ 172 - -CHAP. X.--Taxes, Alcavala....Indian Tribute....Fifths of -the Mines....Lances....Stamped Paper....Tobacco.... -_Media Anata_...._Aprovechamientos_...._Composicion_ and -_Confirmacion_ of Lands....Royal Ninths....Venal Offices.... -Estrays....Confiscations....Fines....Vacant Successions.... -_Almoxarifasgo_...._Corso_...._Armada_....Consulate.... -_Cirquito_....Vacant Benefices...._Mesada Ecclesiastica_ -...._Media Anata Ecclesiastica_....Restitutions....Bulls 195 - -CHAP. XI.--City of Lima....Figure and Division....Walls.... -Bridge....Houses....Churches....Manner of Building -Parishes....Convents....Nunneries....Hospitals.... -Colleges...._Plasa Mayor_....Market....Interior of the -Viceroy's Palace....Ditto Archbishop's Ditto....Ditto -Sagrario....Ditto Cathedral....Ditto Cavildo 210 - -CHAP. XII.--Particular Description of Parish Churches.... -Of Santo Domingo....Altar of the Rosary....St. Rosa -and other Altars....Cloisters....Sanctuary of Saint -Rosa....Church of San Francisco....Chapels _Del Milagro_, -_De Dolores_, _De los Terceros_....Pantheon....Cloisters, -San Diego....San Agustin...._La Merced_....Profession -of a Nun, or taking the Veil....Hospitals of San Andres, -of San Bartolome and others....Colleges of Santo Toribio, -San Carlos, _Del Principe_....University....Inquisition -....Taken to it in 1806....Visit to it in 1812, after the -Abolition....Inquisitorial Punishments....Foundling -Hospital....Lottery....Mint....Pantheon 237 - -CHAP. XIII.--The Population of Lima....Remarks....Table -of Castes....The Qualifications of Creoles....Population -and Division....Spaniards....Creoles, White.... -Costume....Indians....African Negroes....Their _Cofradias_, -and Royal Personages....Queen Rosa....Creole -Negroes....Mestisos....Mulattos....Zambos....Chinos -...._Quarterones and Quinterones_....Theatre....Bull -Circus....Royal Cockpit....Alamedas....Bathing Places -....Piazzas...._Amancaes_....Elevation and Oration Bells.... -Processions of Corpus Christi, Santa Rosa, San Francisco and -Santo Domingo....Publication of Bulls....Ceremonies on the -Arrival of a Viceroy 283 - -CHAP. XIV.--Fruits in the Gardens of Lima....Flowers.... -Particular Dishes, or Cookery...._Chuno_, dried Potatoes -...._Chochoca_, dried Maize....Sweetmeats....Meals.... -Diseases....Medical Observations....On the Commerce -of Lima....Profitable Speculations 330 - -CHAP. XV.--Visit to Pisco....Town of Pisco....Bay of Pisco -....Curious Production of Salt...._Huano_...._Huanaes_ -....Vineyards, Brandy....Vineyard _de las Hoyas_.... -Fruits....Chilca, Village of Indians....Leave Lima, -Road to Chancay....Pasamayo House...._Niña de la -Huaca_....Maize, Cultivation....Use of _Huano_....Hogs -....On the Produce of Maize....Different kinds of.... -Time of Harvesting....Uses of....Chicha of....Sugar of.... -Town of Chancay...._Colcas_....Town of Huacho.... -_Chacras_ of the Indians....On the Character of the Native -Indians....Refutation of what some Authors have said of -....Manners and Customs of....Tradition of Manco -Capac....Ditto Camaruru....Ditto Bochica....Ditto -Quitzalcoatl....These Traditions favourable to the Spaniards.... -Government of Manco Capac....Representation -of the Death of the Inca....Feast of Corpus Christi at -Huacho....Indian Dances....Salinas 355 - -CHAP. XVI.--Villa of Huara....Description....Village of -Supe....Ruins of an Indian Town...._Huacas_, Burying -Places....Bodies preserved entire....Village of Barranca -....Earthquake in 1806....Barranca River....Bridge of -Ropes....Village of Pativilca....Sugar Plantation.... -Produce and Profit....Cane cultivated....Mills....Sugar-house -....Management of Slaves....Regulations &c. of Slaves 410 - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - Arrival at Mocha....Some account of Mayo, one of the Cape de Verd - Islands touched at on our passage....Description of Mocha, its - Productions, &c....Leave Mocha, and land at Tucapel - Viejo....Description of the Indians, their Dress, &c....Indians - take me to their Home....Description of the House, Family, Food, - Diversions....Appearance of the Country....What Trade might be - introduced. - - -On the 14th of February, 1804, I landed on the Island of Mocha, after a -passage of upwards of five months from England, during which we passed -between the Cape de Verd Islands, and touched at one of them called -Mayo, for the purpose of procuring salt, which appears to be the only -article of commerce. It is produced by admitting the sea water on flats, -embanked next to the sea, during the spring tides, and allowing it to -evaporate: the salt is then collected and carried off before the return -of the high tides, when the water is again admitted, and the same -process takes place. The sea water is here strongly impregnated with -salt, owing probably to the great evaporation caused by the intense -power of the heat, which also aids and hastens the process on shore. The -inhabitants whom I saw were all blacks, with the solitary exception of -a priest, and many of them in a state of nudity, even to an age at which -decency if not modesty requires a covering. A small quantity of bananas, -the only fruit we could procure, and some poultry, were brought from St. -Jago's, another of the islands, visible from Mayo. - -The Island of Mocha, situate in 38° 21´ S. and that called Santa Maria, -lying about 80 miles to the northward of it, were the patrimony of a -family, now residing at Conception, of the name of Santa Maria, who -lived on the latter, and sent some people to reside at Mocha, but after -the commencement of the war between England and Spain, in 1780, the -family, as well as the whole of the inhabitants, were ordered by the -government of Chile to quit the islands, under the pretence that these -were a resort for smugglers: a pretence derived from the common error, -that privacy is preventive of contraband. - -During the time that Mocha was in the possession of the Santa Marias a -number of the original indian inhabitants, belonging to the tribe found -on it when first visited by the Spaniards in 1549, resided there, but -they were also removed to Conception. - -These two islands having been once inhabited, there are yet to be found -some few remains of cattle, which have continued to procreate: on Mocha -are horses and pigs, and some barn door fowls. Mocha is about fifteen -miles in circumference, hilly in the centre, and sloping towards the -coast, more so on the western side, where a tolerably good anchorage and -a safe landing place, on a sandy beach, may be found. Fresh water flows -from several springs; wild turnips, mint and other herbs grow in -abundance; the trees on the hilly part are principally the white -cinnamon, named by the Spaniards _canelo_, the magui, the luma, a tree -called _espino_, and others. Here are also apple, peach and cherry -trees, with a variety of wild strawberries, and myrtle-berries. Some -solitary seals yet remain on the rocks on the south side of the island. - -I left Mocha after remaining there alone thirty-two days, and landed -from the brig Polly at Tucapel Viejo, the residence of one of the -Caciques, or Ulmenes, of the Araucanian indians, by whom I was most -hospitably treated. - -The male indians who appeared on the beach were of a reddish brown or -copper colour, few of them reaching to the height of six feet. They were -finely shaped and very muscular, having a round face, well formed -forehead, small black eyes, flattish nose, moderately thick lips and -good teeth, but no beard. The whole of the countenance is expressive of -a certain portion of vivacity, and not uninteresting; the hair is black -and strong, all of it being drawn behind the head and platted. The women -are lower in stature than the men, their features similar, and some of -the girls, if I be not allowed to call them handsome, I cannot abstain -from saying are very pretty. The females wear their hair long, and -platted behind their heads: it is afterwards wrapped round with a tape -about an inch and a half broad, to one edge of which are attached a -number of small hawks' bells: the plait is allowed to hang down the -back, and not unfrequently reaches below their knees. - -The dress or costume of the indians at first appeared very singular to -me. In the men it consisted of a flannel shirt, and a pair of loose -drawers of the same material, generally white, reaching below the calves -of the legs; a coarse species of rug about two yards wide and two and a -half long, with a slit in the middle through which the head was passed: -this garment, if so I may style it, hanging over the shoulders and -reaching below the knees, is called a _poncho_. The common ones seemed -to be made from a brownish sort of wool, but some were very fancifully -woven in stripes of different colours and devices, such as animals, -birds, flowers, &c. Of the poncho I shall have occasion to speak again, -as it is universally worn in all the provinces of South America which I -visited; but I must say here, that I considered it as an excellent -riding dress; for hanging loosely and covering the whole body, it leaves -the arms quite at liberty to manage the whip and reins. The hat commonly -worn is in the form of a cone, without any skirts; for shoes they -substitute a piece of raw bull's hide cut to the shape of the sole of -the foot, and tied on with slender thongs of leather. The females wear a -long white flannel tunic, without sleeves, and an upper garment of black -flannel, extending below their knees, the sides closed up to the waist, -and the corners from the back brought over the shoulders and fastened to -the corners of the piece in front with two large thorns, procured from a -species of cactus, or with large silver brooches: it is afterwards -closed round the waist with a girdle about three inches broad, generally -woven in devices of different colours; very often, however, nothing but -the white tunic is worn, with the girdle, and a small mantle or cloak -called _ichella_. The favourite colour among the indians appeared to be -a bluish green, though I saw few of their garments of this colour at -Tucapel, but remarked afterwards, at the town of Arauco, that all those -who came to sell or barter their fruit, &c. wore it. The females -generally have nothing on their heads or feet, but have a profusion of -silver rings on their fingers, and on their arms and necks an abundance -of glass bead bracelets and necklaces. - -The occupation of the men, as in most unenlightened countries, appeared -to be confined to riding out to see their cattle, their small portions -of land, cultivated by the women, and to hunting. The females were -employed spinning wool with a spindle about ten inches long, having a -circular piece of burnt clay at the bottom, to assist and regulate the -rotary motion given by twirling it with the finger and thumb at the -upper end. They generally sit on the ground to spin, and draw a thread -about a yard long, which they wind on the spindle, tie a knot on the -upper end, and draw another thread: though this work is very tedious, -compared to what may be done by our common spinning-wheels, yet their -dexterity and constancy enable them to manufacture all their wearing -apparel. Weaving is conducted on a plan fully as simple as spinning. The -frame-work for the loom is composed of eight slender poles, cut in the -woods when wanted, and afterwards burnt; four of these are stuck in the -ground at right angles, the other four are lashed with thongs at the -top, forming a square, and the frame is complete. The treadles are then -placed about a foot from the front, having a roller at the back of the -frame for the yarn and another in front for the cloth, both tied fast -with thongs; the sleys, made of worsted, doubled, have two knots tied in -the middle of each pair of threads, leaving a small space between the -knots through which to pass the warp. After all the yarns are passed -through the sleys the ends are tied in small bunches to the roller, -which is turned round by two females, one at each end, whilst another -attends to the balls in front; the other ends of the yarn are then tied -to the roller in front. The thongs connected with the treadle are -fastened one to each of the sleys, and a thong being made fast to the -upper part of one of them is thrown over a loose slender pole, placed on -the top of the frame and then made fast to the other sley, so that when -one treadle is pressed by the foot it draws down one of the sleys, -holding every alternate thread, and the other rises, carrying with it -the other half of the warp. Instead of a shuttle the yarn is wound round -a slender stick, of the necessary length, and passed through the opening -formed by the rising of one of the sleys and the falling of the other; -the contrary treadle is then pressed down, and a slender piece of hard -heavy wood, longer than the breadth of the cloth, is passed across, and -the weaver taking hold of both ends drags it towards her and compresses -the thread. This piece of wood, shaped somewhat like a long sword, is -called the _macana_, and has often been resorted to as a weapon in time -of war. The same rude mode of weaving is common, though not universal, -in South America. The manner of weaving ponchos I shall describe when -treating of the town of Arauco, for what I saw here did not deserve -attention. - -Besides the laborious occupation of spinning and weaving, and the usual -household labour, each wife (for polygamy is allowed, every man marrying -as many wives as he choose, or rather, as many as he can maintain) has -to present to her husband daily a dish of her own cooking, and annually -a _poncho_ of her own spinning and weaving, besides flannel for shirts -and drawers. Thus an indian's house generally contains as many fire -places and looms as he has wives, and Abbé Molina says, that instead of -asking a man how many wives he has, it is more polite to ask him how -many fires he keeps. - -The females are cleanly in their houses and persons; dirt is never seen -on their clothes, and they frequently bathe, or wash themselves three or -four times a day. The men also pay great attention to the cleanliness of -their persons. The females attend to the cultivation of their gardens, -in which the men work but little, considering themselves absolute -masters--the lords of the creation, born only to command, and the -women, being the weaker, to obey: sentiments which polygamy supports; -plurality of wives tending to destroy those tender feelings of -attachment which we find in countries where the law allows only one -wife. The principal part of the labour of their farms is performed by -the women, who often plough, sow, reap and carry to the thrashing floor -the wheat or barley, which, when trodden out by horses, is thrown into -the air, that the wind may blow away the chaff. I saw no other grain at -Tucapel or its vicinity but wheat and barley, in small patches; but I -was told that they produced a hundred fold. - -The care of the offspring is entirely committed to the women. A mother -immediately on her delivery takes her child, and going down to the -nearest stream of water, washes herself and it, and returns to the usual -labours of her station. The children are never swaddled, nor their -bodies confined by any tight clothing; they are wrapped in a piece of -flannel, laid on a sheep skin, and put into a basket suspended from the -roof, which occasionally receives a push from any one passing, and -continues swinging for some minutes. They are allowed to crawl about -nearly naked until they can walk; and afterwards, to the age of ten or -twelve years, the boys wear a small poncho, and the girls a piece of -flannel, wrapped round their waist, reaching down to the knees. The -mother, after that age, abandons the boys to the care of the father, on -whom they attend and wait as servants; and the daughters are instructed -in the several works which it will ere long become their duty to fulfil. -To the loose clothing which the children wear from their infancy may -doubtless be attributed the total absence of deformity among the -indians. Perhaps some travellers might suggest, that confinement in any -shape would be considered disgraceful to the haughty Araucanians, who -are pleased to call themselves, "the never vanquished, always victors." - -The house to which I was conveyed by the indians was about five leagues -from the coast, situated in a ravine, towards the farther extremity of -which the range of hills on each side appeared to unite. A stream of -excellent water ran at the bottom of the small valley, winding its way -to the sea, and fordable at this time of the year, but visibly much -deeper at other times, from the marks of the surface water on the banks -and on several large pieces of rock lying in the stream. - -The low part of the ravine (at first more than three miles wide, and -gradually closing as we rode up towards the house) was cultivated in -small patches; and among the brushwood were to be seen clusters of -apple, pear and peach trees, some of them so laden with fruit that their -branches were bent to the ground. The sides of the mountains displayed -in gorgeous profusion the gifts of nature; the same kind of fruit trees, -laden with their ripe produce, enlivened the view, and relieved the eye -from the deep green of the woods which covered the landscape, save here -and there the naked spire of a rock washed by the rains and whitened by -the sunbeams. The situation of the house appeared to have been chosen -not so much for its picturesque beauty, as for the facility of defending -it: the only approach was the road which we took, it being impossible to -descend the mountains on either side--an impossibility which appeared to -increase as we drew nearer to the house. - -Four or five of the young indians, or _mosotones_, rode forward to the -house, and when it first opened to our view a crowd of women and -children had ranged themselves in front, gaping in wild astonishment at -my very unexpected appearance. We rode up to the house, which stood on a -small plain, about thirty yards above the level of the stream, and -alighted amid the din of questions and answers equally unintelligible to -me. The wild stare of curiosity, sweetened with a compassionate -expression of countenance, precluded all fear, and I could not avoid -saying to myself, Great Author of Nature, I now for the first time -behold thy animated works, unadorned with the luxuries, and free, may I -hope, from the concomitant vices, of civilization! - -The house was a thatched building, about sixty feet long, and twenty -broad, with mud walls seven feet high, two doors in the front, opposite -to two others at the back, and without windows. The back part on the -inside was divided into births, the divisions being formed of canes -thinly covered with clay, projecting about six feet from the wall, with -a bed place three feet wide, raised two from the floor; the whole -appearing somewhat like a range of stalls in a stable. Opposite to these -births, and running from one end to the other, excepting the spaces at -the two doors, the floor was elevated about ten inches, and was six feet -wide: this elevation was partly covered with small carpets and rugs, -which with five or six low tables composed the whole of the household -furniture. The two doors on the back side led to the kitchen, a range of -building as long as the house, but entirely detached from it: here were -several hearths, or fire-places, surrounded with small earthen pots, -pans and some baskets made of split cane; and over each fire-place was -suspended a flat kind of basket holding meat and fish, and answering the -purpose of a safe: it is called by the indians a _chigua_. The horses -were unsaddled, and the saddles placed on the floor at one end of the -house. - -The family, or what I conceived to be the family, was composed of -upwards of forty individuals. The father was between forty and fifty -years old, and apparently enjoyed all the privileges of a patriarch. -There were eight women, whom I considered to be his wives, though during -my stay he appeared to associate with only one of them, if allowing her -to wait upon him whilst eating and receiving from the others their -respective dishes (which she placed successively on the small low table) -can be called association. The young men eat the food brought to them at -different tables, or in different parts of the house. The women and -children adjourned to the kitchen, and there partook of what was left by -the male part of the family. From the first day of my arrival to the -last of my stay I always ate out of the same dish with the Cacique, or -Ulmen, for his rank I did not exactly know. Our fingers supplied the -place of forks, and large muscle shells that of spoons: knives I never -saw used at table. - -Our food chiefly consisted of fresh mutton, jirked beef, fish, or -poultry, cut into small pieces and stewed with potatoes or pompions, -seasoned with onions, garlic and cayenne pepper, or capsicum. Our -breakfast, at about sunrise, was composed of some flour or toasted -wheat, coarsely ground, or crushed, and mixed with water, either hot or -cold, as it suited the palate of the eater. This flour is produced or -manufactured by first roasting the wheat or barley in an earthen pan -placed over a slow fire, until the grain takes a pale brown hue. When -cold it is ground on a flat stone, about eight inches or a foot wide, -and two feet or more in length, as they can best procure it. This is put -on the ground, with the end next the female raised about four inches. -She then takes another stone, which reaches nearly across the first, and -weighs from six to ten pounds; this she presses with her hands, and -bruises the grain, which is crushed to a state somewhat like coarsely -ground coffee. At the lower end of the stone is generally placed a clean -lamb skin, with the wool downwards, which receives the flour, called by -the indians _machica_. Our dinner (made up of the stews or messes which -I have mentioned) was generally served at noon in calabashes, or gourds -cut in two, being three inches deep, and some of them from twelve to -twenty inches in diameter. Our supper, which we took at eight o'clock, -was milk, with _machica_, or potatoes. - -I cannot refrain from describing a favourite preparation of milk, called -by the natives _milcow_. Potatoes and a species of pompion, _zapallo_, -were roasted, the insides of both taken out, and kneaded together with a -small quantity of salt, and sometimes with eggs. This paste was made -into little cakes, each about the size of a dollar, and a large quantity -was put into a pot of milk, and allowed to boil for a quarter of an -hour. I joined the Indians in considering it an excellent dish. Their -poultry, fed on barley and potatoes, was fat and good; their fish, both -from the sea and the river, capital; and their beef and mutton in -fatness and flavour were far above mediocrity. - -The beverage at this time of the year, there being abundance of apples, -was principally new cider, but it was sufficiently fermented to produce -intoxication, which I had several opportunities of observing among the -men: to the credit of the women, however, I must say, that I never saw -one of them in a state of ebriety. I was informed that at other times of -the year they fermented liquors from the maize, the process of which I -shall afterwards describe. Their cider is made in the following rude -manner:--a quantity of apples is procured from the woods by the women; -they are put into a species of trough, from eight to ten feet long, -being the trunk of a large tree scooped into a shape somewhat similar to -a canoe. A woman then takes a stick, or cane, nearly the length of the -trough, and standing at one extremity, beats the apples to pieces. They -are afterwards collected at one end, pressed with the hands, and the -juice is received either in large calabashes (dried gourds) or in -prepared goats' hides. It is now carried to the house, poured into an -earthen jar, and left to ferment. The jars are made by the Indians of -baked clay:--some will hold upwards of a hundred gallons, which shews -that these people have some skill in pottery. - -The only in-door diversion which I witnessed among the Indians at -Tucapel was what they certainly considered a dance. About sixteen men -and women intermixed stood up in a row, and following each other, -trotted about the room to the sound of a small drum, which was made by -drawing a piece of the fresh skin of a kid or lamb over an earthen pot -used for cooking. This diversion I saw but twice, and in both instances -after supper. Indeed the indians are not calculated for this kind of -amusement. They associate with each other but little. The females are -considered inferior to the men, and consequently no harmony or -conviviality appears to result from their company. The principal -out-door diversion among the young men is the _palican_: this game is -called by the Spaniards _chueca_, and is similar to one I have seen in -England called bandy. Molina says it is like the _calcio_ of the -Florentines and the _orpasto_ of the Greeks. - -The company divides into two sets. Each person has a stick about four -feet long, curved at the lower end. A small hard ball, sometimes of -wood, is thrown on the ground: the parties separate; some advance -towards the ball, and others stand aloof to prevent it when struck from -going beyond the limits assigned, which would occasion the loss of the -game. I was told that the most important matters have been adjusted in -the different provinces of Araucania by crooked sticks and a ball: the -decision of the dispute is that of the game--the winner of the game -being the winner of the dispute. - -At Arauco I heard that the present bishop of Conception, Roa, having -passed the territory belonging to the indians with their permission, (a -formality never to be dispensed with) on his visitation to Valdivia, was -apprehended in returning for not having solicited and obtained a pass, -or safe-conduct from the _Uthalmapu_, or principal political chief of -the country which he had to traverse, called by the indians, the -_Lauguen Mapu_, or marine district. His lordship was not only made -prisoner but despoiled of all his equipage; and it became a matter of -dispute, which nothing but the _palican_ could decide, whether he should -be put to death or allowed to proceed to Conception. The game was played -in the presence of the bishop: he had the satisfaction of seeing his -party win, and his life was saved. The propriety, however, of keeping -the booty taken from him was not questioned by any one. - -That part of the country which I had an opportunity of visiting with -some of these kind indians was not extensive, but extremely beautiful. -The soil was rich, every kind of vegetation luxuriant, and some of the -trees were very large: the principal ones were the _espino_, the _luma_, -the _maque_, and the _pehuen_. - -I was informed that the indians have both gold and silver mines, and -that they are acquainted with the art of extracting the metal from the -ores. One might presume that there was some foundation for this report -from the ornaments made of the precious metals seen in their possession: -they are of Spanish manufacture, and perhaps either the spoils of war or -the result of barter. - -A trade of no great importance might be established here. The wool, -which is good, and timber, with some gold and silver, would be given in -return for knives, axes, hatchets, white and greenish coarse flannel, -ponchos, bridle bits, spurs, &c. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - Leave Tucapel Viejo, and arrive at Tubul....Description of our - Breakfast on the road....Stay at the house of the Cacique of - Tubul....Some Appearances of Civilization....Game of Pencs, - Wrestling, &c....Anchorage, Trade, &c....Face of the - Country....Arrival at Arauco....Taken to the Commandant, Interview - described....Town of Arauco....Indians who came to barter.... - Weaving of fine _Ponchos_....Excursion to the Water-mills on the - Carampangue River....Entertainments, _Mate_, &c....Visit Nacimiento, - Santa Juana, and return to Arauco....Ordered to Conception. - - -At about three o'clock, on a moonlight morning, in the month of April, I -left the house of my kind Toqui, with five indians. We were all on -horseback, and travelled till after sunrise, when arriving at what -appeared to me to be a common resting place, we alighted, and I -witnessed a most romantic scene. - -The indians were habited in their rude costume, the poncho, the -sugar-loaf hat, the hide sandals, and spurs with rowels at least three -inches in diameter. Their horses were as uncouthly caparisoned: a deep -saddle was covered with three or four sheep skins, over which was spread -a bluish rug of long shaggy wool, the crupper with a broad piece of -leather hanging across the horse's rump, and a broader strap attached to -each side of the saddle passing round the horse behind, about midway -down the thighs, and fastened to the cross piece to prevent its slipping -to the ground. These straps were fancifully stamped, and cut into -various shapes and devices. The huge wooden box stirrups were large -enough to hold the feet of the rider; and the heavy-bitted bridle had -beautifully platted reins, terminating in a lash or whip of the same -workmanship, divided at the end into eight or ten minor plaits, forming -a tuft resembling a tassel. - -The spot at which we arrived was enchanting. The branches of a large -carob tree extended themselves above our heads, while the beautifully -green sward was spread under our feet. A small stream of water worked -its way among the pebbles on one side, and in the distance on the other -the Pacific Ocean, silvered with the rays of the newly risen sun, -heightened in brilliancy by the intervening deep green of the woods, -presented itself to our view. What an awfully grand collection of the -works of nature! He who could behold them without feeling his bosom -swell with such sensations of delight as tongue cannot utter nor pen -describe, cannot be made by this faint description to partake of what I -felt at that moment. - -After the indians had alighted, part of them ran to the brook and -brought some water, in bullocks' horns, which they always carry with -them for this purpose. They divided it among their comrades, each -receiving about a pint. Every one now took from his girdle a small -leather bag, the skin of an animal of the size of a cat, and putting a -handful of roasted flour into the horn with the water, stirred it about -with a small stick and eat it. I followed their example, and this -mixture constituted our breakfast. We then pursued our journey. About -noon we arrived at Tubul, and went to a large house belonging, as I -supposed, to the Toqui, or Cacique. Here are several other houses, -forming a small hamlet, all of whose inhabitants are indians. - -We were regaled with the usual fare at dinner, with the addition of a -lamb, which was killed after our arrival, cut into halves, and roasted -over the embers. What may be considered as a certain portion of -civilization made its appearance at Tubul: the roasted lamb was laid on -a large ill-fashioned silver dish, some silver spoons and forks were -placed on the Toqui's table: not a knife was to be seen, but the -drinking horns had bottoms. Besides the cider some strong ill tasted -brandy and thick sweet wine crowned the board. - -My indian comrades or conductors occasioned much sport after dinner, by -playing what they call the _peuca_, which Molina says serves them as an -image of war. Fifteen _mosotones_, young Indians, took hold of each -other by the hands and formed a circle, in the centre of which a boy -about ten years old was placed. An equal number of young men were then -engaged in attempting to take the boy out of the ring, in which the -victory consists. The indians forming the ring at first extended their -arms as wide as they could, and paced gently round. The others rushed -altogether on the ring, and tried to break it, but their opponents -closed and the invaders were forced to desist. They then threw -themselves into several groups of two or three in each, advanced and -attacked at different points, but were again baffled in their efforts, -and after many unsuccessful trials to break the ring, and take the boy, -they were obliged through fatigue to abandon their enterprise. When the -game, which lasted at least three hours, was finished, abundance of -cider was brought, and the effects of drinking it were soon visible. -Wrestling parties commenced, in which great strength and agility were -shown: the first throw decided each contest, and the horns of cider -were freely circulated to cheer the drooping spirits of the youths. The -females and children stood in groups to witness these sports, and -interest and enthusiasm were strongly marked in their countenances. - -After a supper of _milcow_, roasted potatoes, milk, &c. we retired to -our beds, which were formed of five or six clean white sheep skins, and -some white flannel. We rose at an early hour the next morning; five more -young indians were attached to my escort, and we proceeded on our way to -Arauco. - -There is a roadstead and good anchorage at Tubul, and in any emergency -ships may procure an abundance of bullocks, sheep, and excellent -vegetables, in exchange for knives, axes, buttons, beads, &c. The water -at the mouth of the river is salt, but good fresh water may be easily -obtained a little way up on the north side, where a rivulet joins the -Tubul. - -Having travelled about six miles, we descended to the beach of a very -extensive bay, and saw the island of Santa Maria in the horizon. At the -foot of the promontory which we had crossed was a small stream and three -neat cottages with pretty gardens before them. My guides took me to the -first of these cottages, where we were received by a white woman, the -wife of a sergeant stationed here as at a kind of advanced post. The -sergeant soon made his appearance, and although I had been so very -kindly treated by the good indians, I felt a pleasure at finding myself -once again among people of my own colour, similar to that experienced by -a person who is relieved from an apprehension of danger, by being -satisfied that it does not exist. Some dispute arose respecting the -indians leaving me and returning home; but it was adjusted by the -sergeant sending two soldiers with us, with orders to present me to the -commandant, at Arauco. After breakfasting on roasted jerked beef and -bread, we proceeded towards Arauco, and arrived there at noon. - -The country over which we travelled was every where covered with -vegetation, the valleys or bottoms of the ravines with grass and shrubs, -and their hilly sides with wood. After descending to the beach, several -small ravines opened to the right, containing a considerable number of -neat thatched cottages. Quantities of wild vines climbed from tree to -tree, laden with grapes as yet green; and clusters of apple, pear, and -peach trees adorned the sides of the hills, while the low land from -their bases to the sea side was divided and fenced in with branches of -trees--cattle, principally milch cows, feeding in the enclosures. - -On our arrival at Arauco I was immediately taken to the house of the -commandant, who ordered me into his presence, and the soldiers and -indians to return. I was not a little surprised at the extravagant -appearance of this military hero, who undoubtedly considered himself, in -his present situation, equal to Alexander or Napoleon, and but for his -figure I should have conceived him to be a second Falstaff. He stood -about five feet six inches high, was remarkably slender, and had a -swarthy complexion, large Roman nose, small black eyes, projecting chin, -and toothless mouth. His hair was combed back from his forehead, -abundantly powdered, and tied in a cue _a la_ Frederick. He wore an old -tarnished gold laced uniform of faded blue, with deepened red lappels, -collar and cuffs, his waistcoat and breeches being of the latter colour; -bluish stockings, brown shoes for lack of blacking, and large square -brass buckles. A real Toledo was fastened to his side with a broad black -leather belt and a brass buckle in front: an equilateral triangular hat -covered his head. Such was the visible part of this soldier. His red -cloak was on a chair near him, while his worship stood, bolt upright, in -his vast importance _personale_! Never did chivalrous knight listen -with more gravity of countenance, measured demeanour or composed -posture, to the cravings of a woe-begotten squire, than did my old -commandant to my ill-digested narrative. But what a contrast presented -itself in his goodly lady, the _comandanta_, whom I could compare to -nothing better than a large lanthorn! She stood about four feet six -inches high, and as nearly as I could conceive measured the same round -the waist, which was encompassed by an enormous hoop, at least four feet -in diameter, having a petticoat of scarlet flannel, sewed into small -folds, the bottom of which was trimmed about a foot deep with something -yellow. She wore a green bodice, and the sleeves of her undermost -garment just covered her shoulders, and were edged with green ribbon and -white fringe. Her hair was all combed back from her forehead, and tied -behind with a broad black ribbon. On the top of her head appeared a -bunch of natural flowers. It might with propriety be said of this goodly -dame, that it would be much easier to pass over than to go round her. -There were also present the curate of the parish, two Franciscan friars, -and some of the inhabitants, one of whom, Don Nicolas del Rio, -compassionating the fate of a boy, (for I was then only seventeen) -asked the commandant to allow me to be his guest. This request being -granted, the chief put on his red cloak, walked with us to the house of -Don Nicolas, and, not forgetting one iota of etiquette, presented me to -the family, composed of the wife of Don Nicolas and three daughters; -their only son being with an uncle, who was governor of Angeles. During -the time I remained at Arauco I was treated in every respect as one of -the family by these kind and hospitable people. Visiting parties to -their gardens, orchards, and vineyards, followed each other daily, and -all possible care was taken to render me happy--and not in vain, for I -was happy. - -Arauco is situated at the foot of a rocky hill, accessible only by a -winding path from the inside of the walls by which the town is -surrounded. On the top of the hill were four brass guns of eighteen -pounds calibre, with a breast-work of stone, a large house for the -soldiers, forming their barracks or guard-house, and a small watch -tower. The town is a square of about six hundred yards, and is -surrounded by a wall of eighteen feet high on three of the sides, the -hill forming the fourth; two small breast-works are raised at the -corners. An arched gateway stands in the centre of the north side, with -a massy wooden door, which is closed every night at eight o'clock, and -opened at six in the morning. From the gateway is a street to the -square, or market-place, where the church is erected. There is also a -convent of Franciscan friars, which was formerly a Jesuits' college. The -garrison consisted of thirty privates with the respective subalterns and -officers. The whole population amounts to about four hundred souls. - -The town is well supplied by a spring in the rock with most excellent -water, which falls into a large stone basin, and thence runs through the -square, the principal street, and out at the gateway. Fruit, fish, -poultry, and cider called _chicha_, are brought in daily by the indian -women, and sold or bartered principally for salt, which is the article -most in demand, there being none but what is imported. The greater part -used for culinary purposes is from Peru, but a coarser kind is obtained -from the coast of Chile, near to Valparaiso. The general salutation of -the indians is _marry, marry_; and I was told, that when a Cacique or -any other chief sends to a Spaniard his _marry, marry_, it is a sure -sign that he is at peace with the Spaniards, though other tribes may be -at war with them. - -I had several opportunities at Arauco of seeing the indians employed in -weaving the fine _ponchos_, some of which, I learnt, were worth from a -hundred to a hundred and fifty dollars. The wool is first washed and -picked or combed, for they have no idea of carding. It is then spun with -the spindle, as already described, and afterwards dyed the necessary -colours, such as blue, green, yellow, red, &c., and if one be wanted -which they have not the materials to produce, they purchase a piece of -Manchester flannel of the colour required, pick it to pieces, reduce it -to wool, and spin it over again, the yarn being required to be much -finer than that of the flannel, and always twisted of two or more -threads. The _poncho_ is woven in stripes of one, two, or three inches -broad, which are subsequently sewed together. Sometimes, and for the -finest _ponchos_, no loom whatever is used. The coloured threads or -yarns are rolled on a round piece of wood; the weaver ties the other -ends of them to her girdle, and lifts and depresses the threads with her -fingers, passing the woof rolled on a cane instead of a shuttle, and -beating it with the _macana_. This may undoubtedly be considered the -lowest pitch of weaving, but the patterns on the stripes are very pretty -and ingenious, and the repetitions of the devices are extremely exact. - -After a few days' rest, it was proposed by Don Nicolas that I should -accompany his daughters on an excursion to some of the neighbouring -towns and villages: a proposal highly gratifying to myself, and -apparently not less so to my new acquaintance. A permission or passport -was procured for me from the commandant, and I was ordered to present it -at every military post we might arrive at. Whether there were any -necessity for this document I do not know; but I think it was provided -to give me an idea of the authority of the military chief; for I was -never asked for it, and when I presented it at any post it was never -read; but a curl of the upper lip showed the contempt with which it was -viewed by the subalterns of this great man! - -Our cavalcade, on as delightful a morning as ever broke on joyous -travellers, made a very gay appearance. The three daughters of Don -Nicolas were mounted on good horses, with square side-saddles, the upper -part of which had rather the shape of small chairs, having backs and -arms covered with velvet, fastened with a profusion of brass-headed -nails. A board about ten inches long and four broad, covered and nailed -to match, was suspended on the far side of each horse; so that the rider -sat with her left hand to the horse's head, contrary to the custom in -England. The bridles, cruppers and appendages were of exquisite platted -work, ornamented with a number of silver rings, buckles and small -plates. I rode a horse belonging to my good host, with saddle and -trappings decorated in the same manner. The saddle was raised about four -inches before and behind, and some sheep skins were put on the seat, -covered with a red rug of very long wool. Four sumpter mules were laden -with bedding and provender, two _mosotones_, young indians, were -appointed to attend to them, and two females to wait on their young -mistresses. We mounted, and at the gate were joined by the commandant's -two daughters, who had two soldiers for their guard. Never did I feel -more delighted than when, having passed the gateway and advanced a few -yards, I turned round to view this novel scene, to which, in my mind, a -Canterbury pilgrimage was far inferior. Five young ladies in their rigid -costume; their small but beautifully wrought _ponchos_; their black hats -and feathers; their hoops, spreading out their fancifully coloured -coats, ornamented with ribbons, fringes, and spangles; the gay -trappings of their horses; the two soldiers in uniform; the indians; the -servant girls, and the sumpter mules, which closed the procession; the -merry countenances of all; the parents, relations and friends, waving -their hats and handkerchiefs from the walls of the town; the sound of -the church and convent bells, summoning the inhabitants to mass; the -distant view of the sea on one side, and that of the enchanting plain -and mountain scenery on the other--reminded me of fairy regions, and at -times caused me almost to doubt the reality of what I beheld. It was -predetermined that we should breakfast at a farm-house about two leagues -from Arauco. Thither we rode, leaving the indians to follow with their -charge. - -Our arrival was anticipated, and a splendid breakfast had been prepared: -roasted lamb, fowls, fried eggs and fish smoaked on the table; whilst -chocolate and toasted bread, excellent butter and cheese finished the -repast. We honoured our host by eating heartily, and waited the arrival -of the indians: they were ordered to follow us to the mills. We shortly -reached the bank of the river Carampangue, and after riding about twelve -miles came to the mills called _de Carampangue_. The river is in some -places from eighty to a hundred yards wide, and in others not above -twenty; running slowly towards the sea, into which it empties itself -about four miles from Arauco. Its origin is said to be in the -Cordilleras. Where the mills are situated the river is twenty-two yards -wide, with a considerable fall, and water is drawn from it for their -service by channels. These mills are three in number, with vertical -water-wheels and one pair of stones to each mill. I was informed that -the stones are brought from a considerable distance, and that they cost -about one hundred and fifty dollars the pair. They are black, with small -white stains, resembling in size and shape the wings of flies, and hence -are called _ala de mosca_. When by any accident they are broken, the -only remedy is to procure new ones, the people being ignorant of any -cement with which to unite the pieces; and probably the expense of iron -work would amount to more than that of new stones; nay, I question -whether they have a blacksmith in this part of the country who could -forge hoops to brace them. The only precaution taken to prevent such -accidents is the passing a number of thongs of raw hide, while fresh, -round the stones, and when dry they are not perhaps very inferior to -iron hoops. The wood-work is as rude, the miller being the carpenter, -blacksmith, mason, &c. The flour is not bolted, but sifted by hand. -This however is no part of the business or trade of the miller, who is -only required to grind the corn; for the meal is carried home to its -owner, and separated from the bran with large hair sieves made by the -indians. - -We dined at one of the houses, partly on the fare presented to us, and -partly on our own, brought by the sumpter mules. The afternoon was spent -in rambling about the neighbouring country and picking myrtle berries, -which are delicious, and called by the people _mutillas_. They are about -the size of a large pea, of a deep red colour and of a peculiarly sweet -and aromatic flavour. They are sometimes prepared by crushing them in -water and allowing them to ferment for a few days, which produces a -pleasant beverage called _chicha de mutilla_. We found abundance of wild -grapes, (which though neither large nor sweet were very palatable) some -few plums, and plenty of apples, pears and peaches. On our return to the -miller's house we were presented with _mate_, which is a substitute for -tea, and is used more or less in every part of South America, but since -the present revolution it has become less prevalent, partly because the -custom of drinking tea _a la Inglesa_ is more fashionable, and partly -because a regular supply of the herb cannot be procured from Paraguay, -where it grows, and from whence it derives its name. The _mate_ is -prepared by putting into a silver or gold cup about a teaspoonful of the -herb of Paraguay, to which are added a bit of sugar, sometimes laid on -the fire until the outside be a little burnt, a few drops of lemon -juice, a piece of lemon peel and of cinnamon, or a clove. Boiling water -is poured in till the cup is full, and a silver tube, about the -thickness of the stalk of a tobacco pipe, six inches long and perforated -at the lower end with small holes, is introduced. Through this the -_mate_ is sucked, with the risk of scalding the mouth. A cup supported -on a salver, most curiously chased, or filigreed, is commonly used: -however a calabash, with a fillet of silver round the top, was used on -this occasion. One tube serves the whole party, and the female who -presides will not unfrequently give a hearty suck when the cup is -returned to her, and take another after replenishing it, before it is -handed to the company. A great deal of etiquette is observed with the -_mate_. It is first offered to the person who is the greatest stranger, -or most welcome visitor, a priest, if there happen to be one present, -which is generally the case. Nothing but the severe indisposition of -Friar Vicente at Arauco freed us from his presence: an event which was -not regretted by the party until dancing was proposed in the evening, -when his ghostly fathership was missed, as no one could play on the -guitar so well as he: however one of the soldiers offered his services; -the instrument was produced and tuned, the dance named, and the -sparkling eyes of the whole company, which had greatly increased since -our arrival, bespoke a wish to "trip it on the light fantastic toe;" but -to my astonishment, a young man and woman stepped into the middle of the -room, and began to jig to the sounds of the guitar, sounds not to be -equalled except by the filing of a saw, or the boisterous singing of the -performer. This I was told was a _bolero_. They danced about five -minutes, and were relieved by two others. In this manner the diversion -was kept up until after midnight, with the assistance of cider, _chicha -de mansana_, _chicha de mutilla_, bad wine, and some brandy made from -the wild grape of the country. A hot supper closed the scene, and we -retired to the beds prepared for us at the different houses. - -The following morning after breakfast we mounted our horses, and having -crossed the river at a ford, pursued our route to Nacimiento, which is -a small village surrounded by a wall with four brass guns. The greater -part of the inhabitants are indians, and apparently very poor. We spent -the night at the house of the curate, but not so agreeably as we passed -the preceding one at the mills. - -On the next day we went on to Santa Juana, another frontier town, -standing on an island formed by the river dividing itself into two -branches for the space of about half a mile and again uniting. This -river is the Bio-bio, and may with propriety be called the northern -boundary of Chile. The towns on the south side of the Bio-bio are under -great risk of being sacked by the indians, and are merely kept as -advanced posts by the Spaniards. We rested one day at Santa Juana, and -returned by a different road to Nacimiento, from thence to the -Carampangue mills, and the day after to Arauco, having spent seven days -in this most agreeable excursion. - -I was exceedingly surprized at being informed that war had been declared -between England and Spain; and in a few days afterwards I received -orders to proceed to Conception. I remained at the house of my friend -Don Nicolas del Rio, until my departure, enjoying every day more and -more the kind hospitality of this worthy South American and his -excellent family, whom I left with the most sincere regret, impressed -with the idea that I should never see any of them again. I was, however, -deceived, for after a lapse of seventeen years we met under -circumstances which enabled me to repay a part of their kindness. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - Account of Cultivation of Farms, &c. in Araucania....Thrashing, - &c....Produce ....Cattle....Locality....Topographical - Divisions....Government (Indian)....Laws and Penalties....Military - System....Arms, Standards, &c....Division of Spoil....Treaty of - Peace....Religion....Marriages....Funerals....Spanish Cities - founded in Araucania....Ideas on New Colonies....Commerce. - - -The plough used by the Creoles and Spaniards and adopted by the indians -is a piece of crooked wood, generally part of the trunk and one of the -principal branches of a tree. The portion which is intended to move the -soil, for it cannot properly be called ploughing, is about five feet -long and six inches broad. One end is pointed and sometimes charred; at -the other a handle rises about three feet high, forming with the bottom -piece an obtuse angle, greater or less according to the will of the -maker, or the chance of finding a piece of wood suitable for the -purpose. One end of the beam is inserted at the angle and is supported -about the middle of the lower part of the plough by a piece of wood -passing through it into a mortise made in the lower part, where it is -secured, as well as in the beam, by small wedges. The removal of those -in the beam serves to raise or depress it for the purpose of making the -furrow deeper or shallower. The beam is from ten to twelve feet long, -the one end fastened as already mentioned, and the other lashed to the -yoke, which is tied with thongs just behind the horns of the bullock. -Instead of harrows they use a bunch of thorns, generally of the -_espino_. One would imagine that this rude implement had been found in -the hands of the indians at the time the country was discovered; but -according to Townsend's description of the plough used in some parts of -Spain, it was one of the improvements carried to America by the earliest -settlers. Indeed, rude as it is, it is seen in every part of South -America which I visited, having in some places the addition of a piece -of flat iron, about a foot long and pointed at one end, attached by -thongs to that of the lower part of the plough, and called _reja_: -probably from the verb _rajar_, to split or divide. - -When a farmer selects a piece of ground for cultivation he cuts down the -trees, with which he makes a fence by laying them around the field. He -then ploughs or breaks the ground, sows his wheat or barley, and harrows -it in with a bunch of thorns: here the cares of husbandry cease until -harvest. The corn is now cut, tied into sheaves, and carried to the -thrashing floor, where it is trodden out by a drove of mares, which are -driven round at a full gallop, till the straw becomes hard, when it is -turned over, and the trampling repeated two or three times, so as to -break the straw into pieces of two inches long. At this stage it is -supposed that the grain is freed from the ears. The whole is shaken with -large forks, made of wood or forked branches of trees; the chaff and -grain fall to the ground, and are formed into a heap, which is thrown up -into the air with shovels. The wind blows away the chaff, and the grain -remains on the floor. It is now put into sacks made of bullocks' hides, -placed on the backs of mules, and carried to the owner's house; but not -before the tythe or _diesmo_ has been paid, and one bushel, _primicia_, -to the parson. The straw is occasionally preserved for the horses in the -rainy season; at other times it is burnt or left to rot. - -For a thrashing floor a piece of ground is selected, and having been -swept and cleared, is enclosed with a few poles and canes. It is seldom -used twice, and the size is proportioned to the quantity of corn to be -trodden out. - -Maize, sometimes called indian corn, is cultivated in great quantities -in this as well as in every other part of South America. Four varieties -are to be found here, all of which are very productive and much -appreciated. It is sown in lines or rows, two, three, or four plants -standing together, at the distance of half a yard from the other -clusters. Each stem produces from two to four cobs, and some of them are -twelve inches long. The indians prepare the maize for winter, whilst in -the green state, by boiling the cobs, from the cores of which are taken -the grain, which is dried in the sun and kept for use. It is called -_chuchoca_, and when mixed with some of their hashes or stews is very -palatable. Another preparation is made by cutting the corn from the core -of the green cobs, and bruising it between two stones until it assumes -the consistency of paste, to which sugar, butter and spices, or only -salt is added. It is then divided into small portions, which are -enclosed separately within the inner leaf of the cob or ear and boiled. -These cakes are called _umitas_. The dry boiled maize, _mote_, and the -toasted, _cancha_, are used by the indians instead of bread. One kind of -maize, _curugua_, is much softer when roasted, and furnishes a flour -lighter, whiter, and in greater quantity than any other kind. This meal -mixed with water and a little sugar is esteemed by all classes of -people. If the water be hot the beverage is called _cherchan_, if cold -_ulpo_. - -M. Bomare considers the maize as indigenous to Asia alone, and C. -Durante to Turkey; but Solis, Zandoval, Herrera and others prove that it -was found at the discovery of the New World in the West Indies, Mexico, -Peru and Chile. Indeed I have opened many of the graves, _huacas_, of -the indians, and observed maize in them, which was beyond all doubt -buried before the conquest or discovery of this country. - -There are two kinds of _quinua_, a species of chenopodium. The seed of -the one is reddish, bitter, and used only as a medicine. The other is -white, and is frequently brought to table. When boiled it uncurls and -has the appearance of fine vermicelli. It is sometimes boiled in soup, -and is also made into a kind of pudding, seasoned with onions, garlic, -pepper, &c. - -Of the bean, _phaseolus_, they have several kinds, which are grown in -abundance, constituting both in a green and dried state a great part of -the support of the lower classes of Creoles and indians. The bean is -indigenous, and was cultivated before the arrival of the Spaniards. - -Seven or eight varieties of potatoe of an excellent quality are raised, -and in some shape or other introduced to every table and almost at -every meal. Indeed Chile is considered by many naturalists to be the -native soil of this vegetable. The small potatoes are often preserved by -boiling them and drying them in the sun, or among the Cordilleras -covering them with ice, until they assume a horny appearance. When used -they are broken into small pieces, soaked in water, and added to many of -their stews. A species called _pogny_ is very bitter, and is considered, -with probability, to be poisonous. For use it is soaked in water till -the bitterness is removed, then dried, and sometimes reduced to powder, -called _chuno_. For food it is prepared like arrow root, which it -resembles. - -They have the white and the yellow flowered gourd. Of the former, -generally called calabashes, there are about twenty varieties, but only -two of them are sweet and eatable. However, the bitter kinds are -remarkably serviceable, for when dried and cleaned their shells are -substitutes for dishes, bowls, platters, bottles, tubs, or trays. The -largest serve the purposes of barrels for water, cider, and other -liquids, as well as baskets for fruit, butter and eggs. They are -sometimes very curiously cut and stained, and for certain uses bound or -tipped with silver. The yellow flowered, known to us by the name of -pumpkin or pompion, and here called _zapallo_, are excellent food, -whether cooked with meat as a vegetable, or made into custard with sugar -and other ingredients. That the gourd is a native of South America seems -to be supported by several striking circumstances. The seeds and shells -are found in the graves, or _huacas_; the plant was universally met with -among the different tribes of indians at the time of their discovery; -Almagro states that on his passage down the Maranon some of the indians -had calabashes to drink with; and lastly, those who bring their produce -from the woods of Maynas to Cusco, Quito and other places, always use -gourd shells. - -The pimento, guinea, or cayenne pepper, _capsicum_, is much cultivated -and valued by the natives, who season their food with it. Although at -first very pungent and disagreeable, strangers gradually habituate -themselves to, and become fond of it. There are several varieties. - -I have been thus particular in mentioning these indigenous plants, -because from the slender or exaggerated accounts given to the public no -perfect idea can be formed of the native productions of this country. - -European vegetables prosper extremely well in Araucania, and abundance -of them are to be seen in every garden. - -In some parts of the Araucanian territory there is a great stock of -horned cattle, which is well grown, and often tolerably fat. The beef is -savoury, owing perhaps to the prevalence of aromatic herbs, more -particularly a species of venus' comb, called by the indians _loiqui -lahuen_, by the Spaniards _alfilerilla_; and trefoil, _gualputa_. There -is no scarcity of sheep; but pigs are not much bred, as the indians are -averse from eating their flesh: a prejudice which has supplied some -fanatical priests with a reason for considering the natives of Jewish -extraction! Turkeys, barn door fowls and ducks thrive extremely well. I -never saw any geese here, and though they may be found in other parts, -the indians have a dislike to them for food. - -The tract of country which may be properly called Araucania extends from -the river Bio-bio in 36° 44´ south latitude, to Valdivia in 39° 38´, the -province of Conception bounding it on the north, and the _Llanos_ or -plains of Valdivia on the south. The Cordillera forms the eastern limit, -and the Pacific the western. It is divided into four governments, or -tetrachates, called _uthal mapus_:--1. _lauguen mapu_, the maritime -country; 2, _lelbun mapu_, the plain country; 3, _mapire mapu_, the -foot of the Cordilleras; 4, _pire mapu_, the Andes. Each tetrachate is -again divided into nine _allaregues_, or provinces, and these are -subdivided into nine _regues_, or districts. This division existed prior -to the arrival of the Spaniards, but the date of its establishment is -unknown. It evinces, however, more wisdom than civilized countries are -willing to allow to what they term barbarous tribes, who no doubt return -this compliment, by adjudging those nations to be barbarous who observe -any rules or laws different from their own. - -Such is the common characteristic of civilization and uncivilization! -But can that country be called barbarous which, although its code of -laws is not written on vellum, or bound in calf, has an established mode -of government for the administration of justice and the protection of -property? The Araucanians have ever been a warlike race, and yet their -government is aristocratical. They are prompt to resent an insult, but -they possess virtues of a private and public nature, which deny to -civilization its exclusive pretensions to patriotism, friendship or -hospitality. - -The four _uthalmapus_ are governed by four _Toquis_, or tetrachs, who -are independent of each other in the civil administration of their -respective territories, but confederated for the general good of the -whole country. The Apo-ulmenes are subordinate governors of provinces, -under the respective Toquis; and the Ulmenes, the prefects of the -counties, or districts, are dependent on the Apo-ulmenes. All these -dignities are hereditary in the male line, attending to primogeniture, -but when there is no lineal male descendant of the person reigning, the -vassals enjoy the privilege of electing a new governor from among -themselves, and on reporting their choice to the Toquis, they -immediately order it to be acknowledged. - -The badge of a Toqui is a battle-axe; that of an Apo-ulmen a staff, or -baton, with a ball of silver on the top, and a ring of the same metal -round the middle: the Ulmen has the baton without the ring. - -To the hypothetical historian this aristocracy in the most southern -limits of the new, so similar to the military aristocracy of the dukes, -the counts, and the marquises in the northern parts of the old world, -would prove that the latter was peopled by migrations from the former, -at a time beyond the reach of record, or even of oral tradition. - -The Araucanian code of laws is traditionary, (composed of primordial -usages, or tacit conventions, formed in such general councils as are yet -assembled by the Toquis in cases of emergency) and is called -_aucacoyog_. Molina, Ulloa, and other writers are silent upon the -curious fact of the possession by this people of the _quipus_, or -Peruvian mode of knotting coloured threads as a substitute for writing -or hieroglyphics. That they do possess this art at the present day, the -following narrative will testify. In 1792 a revolution took place near -Valdivia, and on the trial of several of the accomplices, Marican,[1] -one of them, declared, "that the signal sent by Lepitrarn was a piece of -wood, about a quarter of a yard long, and considerably thick; that it -had been split, and was found to contain the finger of a Spaniard; that -it was wrapped round with thread, having a fringe at one end made of -red, blue, black, and white worsted; that on the black were tied by -Lepitrarn, four knots, to intimate that it was the fourth day after the -full moon when the bearer left Paquipulli; that on the white were ten -knots, indicating that ten days after that date the revolution would -take place; that on the red was to be tied by the person who received it -a knot, if he assisted in the revolt, but if he refused, he was to tie -a knot on the blue and red joined together: so that according to the -route determined on by Lepitrarn he would be able to discover on the -return of his _chasqui_, or herald, how many of his friends would join -him; and if any dissented, he would know who it was, by the place where -the knot uniting the two threads was tied." - -Thus it is very probable, that the Toquis of Araucania preserve their -records by means of the quipus, instead of relying on oral tradition. -The principal crimes of this people are murder, adultery, robbery and -witchcraft. If a murderer compound the matter with the nearest relations -of the deceased, he escapes punishment. Such is also the case in robbery -and adultery; the composition in robbery being restitution of property -stolen; in adultery, maintenance of the woman. Witchcraft is always -punished with death. In murder, however, retaliation is generally called -in to decide; and in most instances the injured relatives collect their -friends, enter and despoil the territory or premises of the aggressor. -These _malocas_, as they are stiled, are sources of great confusion. - -When a general council has resolved to make war, one of the Toquis is -usually appointed by his brethren to take the command in chief; but -should the four agree to nominate any other individual in the state, he -becomes duly elected, and assumes the Toquis' badge, a war axe--the four -Toquis laying down their insignia and authority during the war. The -person thus elected is sole dictator. He appoints his subalterns, and is -implicitly obeyed by all ranks. War being determined on, and the Toqui -chosen, he immediately sends his messengers, _werquenis_, with the -signal; and as all Araucanians are born soldiers of the state, the army -is soon collected at the rendezvous assigned. - -The arms of the infantry are muskets, which from the Spaniards they have -learned to use with great dexterity, though bows and arrows, slings, -clubs and pikes are their proper weapons. They have also their cavalry, -in imitation of their conquerors; and, possessed of a good and ample -breed of horses, are very excellent riders. The arms of this branch of -their force are swords and lances, their system being to come to close -quarters with the enemy as soon as possible. Their standards have a fine -pointed star in the centre, generally white, in a field of bluish green, -which is their favourite colour. Military uniforms are not used, but a -species of leather dress is worn under their ordinary clothing, to -defend the body from arrow, pike and sword wounds. This is doubtless of -modern invention, for before the arrival of the Spaniards they had no -animal of sufficient size to afford hides large or thick enough for such -a purpose. - -The whole of the provisions of an Araucanian army consist of the -_machica_, or meal of parched grain. Each individual provides himself -with a small bag full, which diluted with water furnishes him with -sustenance until he can quarter on the enemy, an object of the last -importance to the leaders. In the camp or resting-place every soldier -lights a fire: a practice which during the first wars with the Spaniards -(so beautifully recorded by Ercilla in his Araucania) often deceived the -enemy as to their numbers. What Robertson says in praise of the Chileans -must be wholly ascribed to the Araucanians, in order to avoid the -confusion which would be created were we to consider the present -inhabitants of Chile as the persons spoken of by that author. - -After a general action or a skirmish the booty taken is equally divided -among the individuals who were at the capture. They judiciously consider -that rank and honours repay the leaders, and that a larger share of the -booty would probably induce them to be more attentive to spoil than to -conquest, to personal good than to national welfare: a policy worthy of -the imitation of all nations. - -Abbé Molina, in his History of Chile, speaks of sacrifices after an -action; but although I inquired, when at Arauco in the year 1803, and -more particularly in the province of Valdivia in 1820, I never could -obtain any account from the natives which gave the least countenance to -this assertion. It is possible, however, that during the first wars with -the Spaniards the barbarous proceedings of the latter to the captured -Indians gave rise to a retaliation which was confounded with sacrifice. -Among the religious ceremonies of Araucania human sacrifices are -decidedly not included. - -The independent spirit of the Araucanians prevents their ever sueing for -peace. The first overtures have always been made by the Spaniards, who -are the only nation with which they have contended; for although the -Inca Yupanqui invaded Chile about the year 1430, the northern limit of -his acquired territory was, according to Garcilaso, the river Maule. -When the proposals are accepted by the indians, or rather by the -commanding Toqui, he lays down his insignia, which the four Toquis of -the uthalmapus resume, and accompanied by the Apo-ulmenes and principal -officers of the army, they adjourn to some appointed plain, generally -between the rivers Bio-bio and Duqueco. The two contending chiefs, with -their respective interpreters, meet, and the Araucanian claiming the -precedence, speaks first, and is answered by the Spaniard. If the terms -offered to the indians meet their approbation, the baton of the Spanish -chief, and the war axe of the Toqui are tied together, crowned with a -bunch of _canelo_, and placed on the spot where the conference was held. -The articles of the treaty are written, but agreed to rather than -signed, and they generally state the quantity and quality of the -presents which the indians are to receive. The negociation ends in -eating, drinking, riot and confusion. Raynal, treating of the -Araucanians, says--"As these Araucanians are not embarrassed by making -war, they are not apprehensive of its duration, and hold it as a -principle never to sue for peace, the first overtures for which are -always made by the Spaniards." - -Their religion is very simple. They have a Supreme Being, whom they call -_Pillian_, and who is at the head of a universal government, which is -the prototype of their own. Pillian is the great invisible Toqui, and -has his Apo-ulmenes and his Ulmenes, to whom he assigns different -situations in the government, and entrusts the administration of certain -affairs in this world. _Meulen_, the genius of good and the friend of -mankind, and Wencuba that of evil, and the enemy of man, are the two -principal subordinate deities. Epunamun is their genius of war; but it -appears that he is seldom invoked as a protector, being only the object -by which they swear to fight, destroy, &c. These three may be considered -their Apo-ulmenes; and their Ulmenes are a race of genii, who assist the -good Meulen in favour of mortals, and defend their interests against the -enormous power of the wicked Wencuba. The Araucanians have no places of -worship, no idols, no religious rites. They believe that as their God -and his genii need not the worship of men, they do not require it; that -they are not desirous of imposing a tribute or exacting a service, -except for the good or interest of their servants; and that they thus -resemble the Toquis and Ulmenes, who can call upon them to fight for -their country and their liberties, but for no personal offices. They, -nevertheless, invoke the aid of the good Meulen, and attribute all their -evils to the influence of the wicked Wencuba. - -The Spanish government has taken great pains to establish the Christian -religion among the different tribes of indians in South America, and -for the education of missionaries for the conversion of the Araucanians -a convent of Franciscan friars, called de propaganda fide, is -established at Chillan. These individuals, however, are chiefly natives -of Spain, and being ordained presbyters can easily obtain a mission; and -as pecuniary emoluments are attached to the employment, the order has -always endeavoured to preclude Americans. There are also minor convents -at Arauco, Los Angeles and Valdivia. As the missionaries only require -the young indians to learn a few prayers, attend mass on particular -days, and confess themselves once a year, they make some proselytes; but -in the year 1820, when the Spanish government was overthrown at -Valdivia, the indians immediately accused their missionaries of being -enemies to the newly-established system, and requested their removal. -Another proof of dislike to the priests, if not to the religion, is, -that they are generally massacred when any revolution takes place among -the indians. Such was the case in 1792 at Rio-bueno.[2] According to the -confessions of those who were taken and tried upon that occasion, their -plan was to burn all the missions, and murder the missionaries. - -Witchcraft and divination are firmly believed by the Araucanians. Any -accident that occurs to an individual or family is attributed to the -agency of the former, and for a due discovery they consult the latter. -Particular attention is paid to omens, such as the flight of birds, and -dreams. These are either favourable or otherwise according to the bird -seen, or the direction of its flight, &c. An Araucanian who fears not -his foe on the field of battle, nor the more dreadful hand of the -executioner, will tremble at the sight of an owl. They have also their -ghosts and hobgoblins: but is there any nation on earth so far removed -from credulity as not to keep the Araucanians in countenance in these -matters? - -The belief of a future state and the immortality of the soul is -universal among the indians of South America. The Araucanians agree with -the rest in expecting an eternal residence in a beautiful country, to -which all will be transferred. Pillian is too good to inflict any -punishment after death for crimes committed during life. They believe -that the soul will enjoy the same privileges in a separate state which -it possessed whilst united to the body. Thus the husband will have his -wives, but without any spiritual progeny, for the new country must be -peopled with the spirits of the dead. Like the ancients, they have their -ferryman, or rather ferrywoman, to transport them thither. She is called -_Tempulagy_, being an old woman who takes possession of the soul after -the relations have mourned over the corpse, and who conveys it over the -seas to the westward, where the land of expectation is supposed to -exist. - -When an indian becomes enamoured of a female, or wishes to marry her, he -informs her father of his intention, and if his proposals be accepted, -the father at a time agreed upon sends his daughter on a pretended -errand. The bridegroom with some of his friends is secreted on the route -she has to take: he seizes the girl, and carries her to his house, where -not unfrequently her father and his friends have already arrived to -partake of the nuptial feast, and receive the stipulated presents, which -consist of horses, horned cattle, maize, ponchos, &c. The ceremony is -concluded by the whole party drinking to excess. - -On the death of an individual the relations and friends are summoned to -attend, and weep or mourn. The deceased is laid on a table, and dressed -in the best apparel he possessed when alive. The females walk round the -body, chaunting in a doleful strain a recapitulation of the events of -the life of the person whose death they lament; whilst the men employ -themselves in drinking. On the second or third day the corpse is carried -to the family burying place, which is at some distance from the house, -and generally on an eminence. It is laid in a grave prepared for the -purpose. If the deceased be a man, he is buried with his arms, and -sometimes a horse, killed for the occasion: if a woman, she is interred -with a quantity of household utensils. In both cases a portion of food -is placed in the grave to support them and the _Tempulagy_, or -ferrywoman, on their journey to the other country. Earth is thrown on -the body, and afterwards stones are piled over it in a pyramidal form. A -quantity of cider or other fermented liquor is poured upon the tomb; -when, these solemn rites being terminated, the company return to the -house of the deceased to feast and drink. Black is here as in Europe the -colour used for mourning. - -The indians never believe that death is owing to natural causes, but -that it is the effect of sorcery and witchcraft. Thus on the death of an -individual, one or more diviners are consulted, who generally name the -enchanter, and are so implicitly believed, that the unfortunate object -of their caprice or malice is certain to fall a sacrifice. The number of -victims is far from being inconsiderable. - -In my description of Araucania I have in some measure followed Molina's -ingenious work; but I have not ventured to state any thing which I did -not see myself, or learn from the indians, or persons residing among -them. - -The Spaniards founded seven cities in Araucania. The Imperial, built in -1552 by Don Pedro Valdivia, generally called the conqueror of Chile, is -situated at the confluence of the two rivers Cantin and Las Damas, 12 -miles from the sea, in an extremely rich and beautiful country, enjoying -the best soil and climate in Araucania. In 1564 Pius IV. made it a -bishop's see, which was removed to Conception in 1620. In 1599 it was -taken and destroyed by the indians, and has never been rebuilt. The site -at present belongs to the _lauguen mapu_, or tetrachate of the coast. - -Villarica was also founded by Valdivia in 1552, on the shore of the -great lake Sauquen, 65 miles from the sea. It was destroyed by the Toqui -Palliamachu, and its site forms part of the tetrachate of the _mapire -mapu_. Report speaks of rich gold mines in the environs of the ground -where Villarica stood and from which it took its name. The climate is -cold, owing to the vicinity of the Cordillera. - -Valdivia bears the name of its founder. Of this city I shall have -occasion hereafter to give a circumstantial account. - -Angol, or La Frontera, was established by Pedro Valdivia in the year -1553. It was razed by the Indians in 1601, and has since remained in -ruins. It is now in reality the frontier, though Valdivia little -surmised that it would be so when he founded it. The river Bio-bio -bounded it on the south side, and a small rapid stream on the north. The -soil and climate are excellent, and the situation was well chosen for a -city. - -Cañete was founded in 1557 by Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendosa, and -destroyed during the first long-contested war with the Araucanians, by -the Toqui Antiguenu. It was built on the site where Valdivia was -defeated and slain, and now forms part of the _lelbum mapu_ tetrachate. - -Osorno is the most southern city in South America, being in 40° 20´, at -the distance of 24 miles from the sea, and 212 south of Conception. It -was founded in 1559 by Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendosa, and destroyed by -the indians in 1599. It was again founded on the old site, on the banks -of Rio-bueno, by Don Ambrose Higgins, who was afterwards president and -captain general of Chile, and promoted to the vice-royalty of Peru. -Charles IV. conferred on Higgins the title of Marquis of Osorno, as a -reward for his services in Araucania. The first supreme director of the -Chilean republic, Don Bernardo O'Higgins, was the natural son of Don -Ambrose. - -Conception is the seventh city founded by the Spaniards, but as it is -not included in the Araucanian territory I shall defer any description -of it for the present. - -Cesares is a place about which much has been said and written. I have in -my possession original mss. relating to it, a translation of which will -be published. - -In all the treaties between the Spaniards and the indians one of the -principal articles has been, that the latter were to oppose with force -of arms the establishment of any foreign colony in their territory. This -stipulation they obeyed in 1638, at the island of Mocha, where they -murdered the remains of a crew of Dutchmen, who went to take possession -of that island after their ship had been wrecked by bad weather; and -also when the Dutch Admiral Henry Brun attempted in 1643 to form a -settlement at Valdivia, and met with the same fate: a fate, however, -which might have been occasioned by the natural hatred entertained at -that period by the natives against all foreigners who attempted to -obtain possession of any part of their country. This jealousy and hatred -of Europeans has always been promoted by the Spaniards, whom the indians -stile _chiape_, vile soldier; but all other foreigners they call _moro -winca_: winca signifying an assassin, and moro a moor. These epithets -proceed from the same source; for the Spaniards are in the habit of -calling all who are not of their own religion either jews or moors, thus -wishing to impress upon the minds of the indians that all foreigners are -worse than themselves! Notwithstanding the late wars, caused by the -revolution of the colonies, have tended very materially to civilize the -Araucanians, the greater part of them joined the Spaniards against the -creoles, or patriot forces; but the ejection of the last remains of the -Spanish soldiers from Araucania in 1822 has induced the indians to -despise them for what they call their cowardice. The new government of -Chile have not availed themselves of this favourable opportunity to -conciliate the indians, by soliciting their friendship, or, after the -manner of the Spaniards, acquiring it at the price of presents. Thus the -Araucanians, having become accustomed to some species of luxuries, find -themselves deprived of them by the fall of the Spanish system in Chile, -and the nonconformity of the new institutions to the old practices; and -thus a chasm has been formed that might be filled by a colony from some -other nation, which by attention and courtesy to the indians might -conciliate their good will and obtain from them whatever was solicited. -Kindness makes an indelible impression upon the minds of most -uncivilized people, while ill-treatment exasperates and drives them to -revengeful extremities. - -The existence of gold mines in Araucania is undoubted, although they are -not regularly wrought. I have seen fine specimens of ore, some of which -were procured from the indians, and others found by accident in the -ravines. - -The soil and climate are very good, and in some parts both are excellent -for grain, pasturage and European fruits. In trade little could be done -at present; but should the indians become acquainted with the use of -those commodities which produce real comforts to society, I have no -doubt that white and greenish blue flannels, salt, sugar, tobacco, -bridle-bits, knives, axes, hatchets, nails, buttons, glass beads and -other trinkets would be exchanged for hides, ponchos, and some gold. The -ponchos, particularly those of good quality called _balandranes_, would -find a ready market in Peru or Chile. - -This interesting part of South America is less known than any other -accessible portion. Others are less known, but they are interior -countries, lying between the range of the Andes and Buenos Ayres, -Paraguay, Brazils and Colombia--immense tracts of the earth kept in -reserve for the speculations of coming ages! But Araucania, from its -locality, climate, and productions, appears destined to become one of -the first and fairest portions of the new world; and should the eyes of -philanthropical speculators be directed to its shores, their capitals -would be more secure in the formation of new establishments than in -loans to many of the old. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] Original manuscript, in the possession of the author, found among -the archives at Valdivia. - -[2] Original MS. from the archives at Valdivia. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - Valdivia....Port....Fortifications....River....City-foundation - ....Revolutions....Inhabitants....Garrison....Government....Rents - and Resources....Churches....Exiles....Missions in the Province of - Valdivi....War with the Indians and Possession of Osorno....Extract - from a Letter in the Araucanian Tongue, and Translation. - - -The following account of the city and province of Valdivia is partly -extracted from mss. in my possession, found in the archives of that -city. - -Valdivia, situated in 39° 50´ south latitude, and in longitude 73° 28´, -is one of the best ports on the western shores of South America: it is -also the strongest, both from its natural position and its -fortifications. The mouth of the harbour is narrow, and the San Carlos -battery on the small promontory on the south, with that of Niebla on the -north side, commands the entrance, their balls crossing the passage. -There are likewise on the south side the batteries Amargos, the high and -low Chorocamayo, and at the bottom of the bay the castle Corral, -commanding the anchorage. In the small island of Mansera is a battery -for the protection of the mouth of the river leading to the city, -besides an advanced post on the south side at Aguada del Ingles, and -two, La Avansada and El Piojo, on the north. At the taking of Valdivia -by Lord Cochrane in 1820, one hundred and eighteen pieces of cannon, of -eighteen and twenty-four pounds calibre, were found mounted. Some of -them were beautiful brass pieces, particularly two eighteens at Mansera, -which measured eleven feet in length, were handsomely carved and -embossed, and bore the date of 1547. His lordship sent them to -Valparaiso, where I had the mortification to see them broken up and -converted into grape shot, by the orders of Governor Crus; who thus -deprived Chile of a noble monument of her naval glory, and Chilean -posterity of the pleasure of viewing, as their property, part of those -engines brought from the old, for the purpose of enslaving the new -world! The anchorage is good, being most completely sheltered, and -capable of holding a great number of ships. - -On the north side of the harbour is the river, which leads to the city. -Its banks are covered with trees, suitable for ship-building and many -other purposes. Among them are the white and red cedar, _alerces_; the -_pellinos_, a species of oak, and the _luma_. The river abounds with -fish, particularly the _pege rey_, the _lisa_, and the _bagre_. At its -mouth are caught _robalo_, _corbina_, _choros_, _xaiba_ and _apancoras_. - -The city of Valdivia stands on the south side of the river, and is -sixteen miles from the port. On the left, ascending the river, are some -few remains of the Dutch settlements. The natives call them _hornos de -los Olandeses_; supposing that Henry Brun's vessels anchored here, and -that these ruins are the wrecks of the ovens built by the Dutch for the -purpose of baking their bread. The tradition is quite incredible, for -vessels cannot enter the river, there not being above four feet water in -some places, and the channel being so extremely narrow, that a launch -cannot pass. Indeed at low water the large canoes of the inhabitants -have to wait for the tide. - -The city was built in 1553, and bears the name of its founder. The -indians took it from the Spaniards in 1599, and destroyed it in 1603, -when the inhabitants fled to the port, from whence some of them passed -to Chile. In 1642 the Marquis of Mansera, Viceroy of Peru, sent the -Colonel Don Alonzo de Villanueva as governor, with orders to capture the -city, which he effected by a singular ruse de guerre. Landing to the -southward of Valdivia, he introduced himself alone among the indians, -with whom he remained two years, and having gained the confidence and -esteem of some of the Caciques, he solicited them to appoint him their -governor in Valdivia; assuring them that such an election would produce -a reconciliation with the Spaniards, and insure the annual presents. -This request was acceded to; and in 1645 the city was rebuilt and -repeopled. Some of the inhabitants are descendants of noble European -families, but the greater part are those of officers and soldiers who -have been sent at different times to garrison the place; some are -indians, and a few slaves. The population amounted to 953 in 1765, and -in 1820 to 741: a decrease attributable to the emigration to Osorno, and -to many being employed in the armies of the contending parties. This -census does not include the garrison, which in 1765 consisted of 249 -individuals, and in 1820, when taken by Lord Cochrane, of 829, besides a -remainder of 780 of the royal army. - -Under the Spanish regime the government was administered by a military -officer, dependent on the President and Captain-general of Chile; but in -1813 the inhabitants declared themselves independent of all Spanish -authority. They however restored the old government in the year -following, and submitted to it until 1820, when Valdivia was -incorporated with the Republic of Chile. For the support of Valdivia a -_situado_ was annually sent from the royal treasuries of Lima and -Santiago. In the year 1807 this remittance amounted to 159,439 dollars, -and according to the original statement was distributed as follows:-- - - - Staff expenses 10210 - Ecclesiastical state 10530 - Military expenses 89846 - Workmen 1512 - Presents to Caciques 306 - ------ - 112404 - ------ - - Supernumeraries 3365 - Building and repairs of } - fortifications, hospital, &c.} 18670 - Provisions for exiles, &c. 25000 - ------ - Total 159439 - ====== - - -In 1765 the _situado_ was 50992 dollars, and in 1646 it was only 28280. - -Whilst the Spaniards held Valdivia the resources of its government were -very limited. Being a close port all foreign commerce was prohibited, -and the few taxes collected in the whole province, including the diesmo, -never exceeded 500 dollars. - -In the city there is a parish church, another belonging to the -Franciscan convent of missionaries, formerly of the Jesuits, and a -chapel appertaining to the hospital of San Juan de Dios. The -ecclesiastical department was dependent on the see of Conception, but -the conventual was a branch of the establishment at Chillan, subject to -the provincialate of Santiago de Chile. - -Valdivia was a place of exile, _presidio_, to which convicts were sent -from Peru and Chile. Their number was but small, and they were employed -in the public works. - -The province of Valdivia extends from the river Tolten in 38° to the -Bueno in 40° 37´ south, and from the Andes to the Pacific, being about -52 leagues long and 45 wide. The three principal rivers in this province -are Tolten, Bueno and Valdivia. Their origin is in three separate lakes -of the Cordillera, from whence they run in a westerly direction, -receiving in their progress several smaller streams and emptying -themselves into the sea. Valdivia river enters the harbour of the same -name, which is the only one in the province. This river, after uniting -its waters to those of San Josef, Cayumapu, Ayenaguem, Putabla, Quaqua -and Angachi, besides a great number of rivulets and estuaries, becomes -navigable for canoes of 200 quintals or 20 tons burthen. Between the -fort Cruces and Valdivia several small but beautiful islands are found: -the principal are Realexo, Del Almuerso, Balensuela, El Islote, De Mota, -San Francisco, De Ramon, De Don Jaime and Del Rey, which is the largest, -being about seven leagues in circumference. There are besides a great -number of smaller ones. In all the streams and ravines in the -neighbourhood of the city and port are to be seen the vestiges of gold -washings, _labaderos_, which are at present totally neglected. After -heavy rains grains of gold as large as peas are often found, but there -are no accounts in the treasury of the working of any mines since the -year 1599, when the first revolution of the indians took place, and the -city fell into their hands. At Valdivia I saw two chalices made of the -gold thus accidentally collected. - -"Tolten el Bajo is the northernmost mission. Situated between the rivers -Tolten and Chaqui, it extends about four miles along the sea coast, and -is one of the largest missions, _reducciones_, in the province, -containing about 800 indians. The Tolten rises in the lake Villarica. It -has no port, but is navigable with canoes; being too deep to be -fordable, it has a bridge, which gives the indians the command of the -road between Valdivia and Conception. Horned cattle and sheep are not -scarce here; and maize, peas, beans, potatoes, barley, and a small -quantity of wheat are cultivated; but in general the soil is not very -fertile. Though the indians are more submissive than those of some other -missions, they are equally prone to the common vices of drunkenness and -indolence. Their commerce consists in bartering coarse ponchos for -indigo, glass beads, and other trifles. At the annual visit of the -_comisario_ a kind of market is held for such traffic: at this visit the -indians renew the _parlamento_, or promise of fidelity to the King of -Spain. The comisario assures them, in a set speech, of the spiritual and -temporal advantages which they will derive from remaining faithful to -their King; and the Cacique, having in a formal harangue acknowledged -his conviction of the truth of this assurance, the indians, being on -horseback, make a skirmish with their lances and wooden swords, -_macanas_, and, riding up to the comisario, alight, and point their arms -to the ground, in sign of peace, which is all they ever promise. They -worship Pillian, and their ceremonies are the same as those of the rest -of the Araucanian nation: for although they call themselves Christians, -their religion is reduced to the ceremony of attending at mass, &c. - -"Querli extends from Purulacu to the river Meguin, being about 18 miles, -and containing 70 indians. Their commerce is an exchange of coarse -ponchos, sheep and hogs, for indigo, beads, &c. - -"Chanchan, which extends about 12 miles, contains 40 indians, produces -maize, peas, beans, barley, and a little wheat. Owing to the vicinity -of the fort de Cruces the indians are more docile and domesticated. - -"Mariquina is about 54 miles in circumference, and contains 110 indians. -The soil is good, and there is an abundance of apples, some pears and -cherries. - -"Chergue is 42 miles long and 4 broad. It contains 135 indians. Its -produce and commerce are similar to those of the places above mentioned. - -"Huanigue is situated near the Cordillera, on the banks of lake Ranigue, -the source of the river Valdivia. This lake is about 20 miles in -circumference, and is rich in fish, particularly _pege_, _reyes_, and a -species of trout. In 1729 the indians of this mission revolted, and they -have never been sufficiently reconciled to admit of a missionary to -offer peace or fealty. The indians of Huanigue wear nothing on their -heads: for shirts they substitute a species of scapulary, made of raw -bullock's hide, covering it with the poncho. They are expert fishers, -and pay little attention to the cultivation of the soil, which is very -fertile. - -"Villarica. The ruins of this city are yet visible, particularly those -of the walls of orchards and of a church. The town stood on the side of -a lake, bearing the same name, about 25 miles in circumference, and -abounding with fish. The soil is very fertile, and the indians raise -maize, potatoes, _quinua_, peas, beans, barley and wheat. Apple, pear, -peach and cherry-trees are seen growing where they were planted by the -Spaniards before the destruction of the city. The indians neither admit -missionaries nor comisario. They have all kinds of cattle and poultry, -which they exchange with other tribes for ponchos, flannels, &c. being -very averse to trade with the Spaniards. - -"Ketate and Chadqui, containing about 280 indians, are at the distance -of 34 leagues from Valdivia. There is plenty of fruit, vegetables and -cattle; the soil is good, and the inhabitants docile; subject to -missionaries and comisario. - -"Dongele, or Tolten Alto, is on the banks of a rapid river of the same -name. It is distant from Valdivia 120 miles, and possesses a rich soil, -productive of maize, peas and other pulse, fruit and cattle: there are -80 indians of manageable habits. - -"Calle-calle and Chinchilca, 45 miles from Valdivia, contain some small -fertile vallies. The maize grown here is very large; indeed all the -vegetable productions are good, and the meat from their cattle is fat -and well-tasted. They have 70 peaceable Indians, who receive -missionaries and comisario. - -"Llanos is the most fruitful part of the province of Valdivia. It is -about 48 miles long, from Tunco to the lake Rames, and on an average 15 -broad. It produces wheat of an excellent quality, barley, all kinds of -pulse, and fruit. The beef and mutton are very fat and savoury. The -number of indians residing in the Llanos is 430. They are docile, and -not so drunken and indolent as other tribes. From a place called -Tenguelen to another, Guequenua, there are many vestiges of gold mines, -_labaderos_, where at some remote period a great number of persons must -have been employed in mining, which is at present entirely -neglected."[3] - -As any authentic accounts of this almost unknown but highly interesting -country cannot fail to be acceptable, I shall here introduce some -extracts from the journal kept by Don Tomas de Figueroa y Caravaca, -during the revolution of the indians in the year 1792, Figueroa being -the person who commanded the Spanish forces sent against the Indians by -the government of Valdivia. - - - "October 3d I left Valdivia with an armed force of 140 men, and the - necessary ammunition and stores. We ascended the river - Pichitengelen, and the following morning landed at an appointed - place, where horses and mules were in readiness to convey us to - Dagllipulli; but the number of horses and mules not being - sufficient, I left part of our baggage and provisions behind, under - guard, and proceeded with the rest to Tegue, about six leagues - distant, where we arrived in the afternoon, and owing to the - badness of the road did not reach Dagllipulli before the 6th. I - encamped; and being informed in the afternoon, that some of the - rebels were in the neighbourhood, with a party of picked soldiers - and horse I scoured the woods, and burned twelve indians' houses, - filled with grain and pulse. After securing what I considered - useful for ourselves, I followed the indians in the road they had - apparently taken towards Rio-bueno, but on my arrival I learnt that - they had crossed the river in their canoes. I therefore immediately - returned to Dagllipulli. On the 10th the Caciques Calfunguir, - Auchanguir, Manquepan, and Pailapan came to our camp, and offered - to assist me against the rebels Cayumil, Qudpal, Tangol, Trumau, - and all those on the other side of Rio-bueno.--13th. An indian who - had been taken declared to me that the Cacique Manquepan was acting - a double part, he having seen him go to the enemy at night with his - _mosotones_.--16th. Burnt twenty-four houses belonging to the - indians, and seized thirty-two bullocks.--19th. I told the Cacique - Calfunguir that I doubted the fidelity of Manquepan, and that he - had been playing the _chueca_ (a game already described); at night - an indian came to my tent and told me that Calfunguir had joined - Manquepan; that both had gone to the rebels, taking with them their - mosotones, and that they would probably return immediately, in the - hopes of surprising me. However this did not occur; and on the - following morning I advanced with part of my force to Rio-bueno, - but did not arrive until the two Caciques had taken to a small - island in the river, leaving in my possession a number of horses - and cattle. Whilst stationed here two indian women were observed - to ride full speed towards the river, apparently determined to pass - over to the enemy, but some of the friendly indians took one of - them, and brought her to me, having killed the other. I questioned - her as to her motives for joining the rebels, but received no - answer; when the indians observing her obstinacy, put her and a - small child which she had in her arms to death. I retired to my - camp, taking with me the cattle, &c. left by the enemy on the bank, - of Rio-bueno.--21st. The traitor Manquepan came again to our camp, - and having consulted the whole of the friendly Caciques as to the - punishment which he and his comrades deserved, it was unanimously - determined, that he and all those who had come with him as spies - should be put to death. I immediately ordered my soldiers to secure - them, and having convinced them that I well knew their infamous - intentions and conduct, I ordered that Manquepan, and the eighteen - mosotones who had come with him into our camp as spies, should be - shot. This sentence was put in execution in the afternoon of the - same day.--29th. We finished a stackade, and mounted four - pedereroes at the angles, as a place of security in the event of - any unexpected assault. I sent to Valdivia forty women and - children, captured at different times in the woods.--Nov. 1st. - Three large canoes were brought to our camp, having ordered them to - be made, for the purpose of crossing Rio-bueno, should the rebels - persist in remaining on the opposite banks, or on the islands in - the river.--10th. After mass had been celebrated at three A. M. and - my soldiers exhorted to do their duty in defence of their holy - religion, their king and country, we marched down to the river - side, and launched our three canoes, for the purpose of crossing - over to one of those islands where the greater number of the rebels - appeared to have been collected. I embarked with part of the - troops, and arrived on the island without suffering any loss from - the stones, lances and shot of the enemy. - - "Having landed, I observed a party of about a hundred indians on - mount Copigue, apparently determined to attack the division I had - left behind, which being observed, the division advanced and routed - the rebels.--During the night the indians abandoned their - entrenchments on the island, and we took possession of them.--On - the 11th, in the morning, I immediately landed part of my force on - the opposite shore and pursued the rebels. At eleven A. M. I came - up with part of them, commanded by the Cacique Cayumil, who was - killed in the skirmish. I ordered his head to be cut off and - buried, being determined to take it on my return to Valdivia. We - continued to pursue the enemy, and in the course of the day killed - twelve indians, one of whom was the wife of the rebel Cacique - Quapul. As it was almost impossible for me to follow the enemy any - further, our horses being tired, and it being insecure to remain - here, we returned to our camp on the 13th, taking with us 170 head - of horned cattle, 700 sheep and 27 horses, which had been abandoned - by the fugitives. A female indian was found in the woods, on our - return, with a murdered infant in her arms; she declared that her - child was crying, and that being fearful of falling into our hands - she had destroyed it.--21st. We marched to the banks of the Ravé, - where I had a _parlamento_ with the Caciques Catagnala and Ignil, - who, as a proof of their fidelity, offered to surrender the city - and territory of Osorno.--22nd. The Caciques Caril and Pallamilla, - with Ignil and Cataguala and all their mosotones, joined us, and we - marched towards the ruined city of Osorno, and having arrived at - the square or _plasa_, I directed the Spanish flag to be placed in - the centre, and in the presence of all the indians I asked the - Caciques if they made cession of this city and its territories to - his Majesty the King: to which they answered they did. I - immediately ordered the erection of an altar, and having placed the - troops and indians in front, high mass was chaunted by the - chaplain; after which I took the Spanish flag in my hand, and - placing myself between the altar and the troops, called attention, - attention, attention, and proclaimed three times Osorno, for our - Lord the King Charles the fourth and his successors: to which the - priest replied, amen, and the troops and indians gave repeated - _vivas_. A discharge of our pedereroes and small arms then took - place, and the Caciques came forward, and pointing their arms to - the ground in token of peace and fidelity, kissed the flag. The - remainder of the day was spent in feasting and rejoicing." - - -The above extract affords a fair specimen of the mode of warfare pursued -by the Spaniards and indians. The following is from a letter written in -the Araucanian tongue, as it is pronounced:-- - - - "Ey appo tagni Rey Valdivia carapee wilmen Lonco gneguly mappu - ranco fringen. Carah nichfringen, fenten tepanlew pepe le pally - cerares fringuey Caky Mappuch hyly eluar Rupo gne suniguam Caaket - pu winca; engu frula Dios, gnegi toki el meu marry marry piami Jesu - Cristo gne gi mew piami." - - TRANSLATION. - - "The King's Governor of Valdivia, to any person who may be at the - head of the people or congress of the Spaniards supposed to be - living at Lonco:--assured that some of my dear countrymen are - residing in the fear of God among the infidels of the country, I - send you health in our Lord Jesus Christ, who is the true health." - - -FOOTNOTE: - -[3] Where the number of Indians has been given it is to be understood as -referring to such as are capable of managing a horse and lance and going -to war. Of these the province of Valdivia contains about 2150, and the -total indian population is estimated at 10500 souls. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - City of Conception de Mocha....Foundation....Situation.... - Government....Tribunals....Bishop....Military....Churches....Houses - ....Inhabitants and Dress....Provincial Jurisdiction....Produce - ....Throwing the _Laso_....Fruit....Timber Trees....Shrubs....Mines - ....Birds....Wild Animals....Lion Hunt....Shepherd Dogs....Breeding - Capons....Return to Conception. - - -I left Arauco at seven A. M. with two soldiers as guides and guards, for -the news having arrived of a declaration of war between England and -Spain, I was now considered a prisoner. We crossed the Carampangy, and -about noon reached the small village Colcura. Its situation is very -romantic, being a high promontory, which commands an extensive prospect -of the country and the sea, with a distant view of the island Santa -Maria. We dined at the house of the _cura_, who treated me with the -greatest attention. We afterwards rode about twelve miles to a large -farm house, and became the guests of the family for the night, enjoying -the good things provided by the hospitality of these kind people, who -welcomed us as though we had conferred rather than received a favour by -calling at their dwelling. The following morning, after taking _mate_, -we proceeded to San Pedro, on the banks of the Bio-bio. This is one of -the forts built by the Spaniards on the frontiers of Araucania. It was -taken and destroyed by the indians in 1599, but rebuilt by the Spaniards -in 1622. It is garrisoned by a detachment of troops from Conception. -During the late troubles in Chile it was alternately in the possession -of the Spanish and Patriot forces; but from the year 1819 the latter -have kept it in possession. Commanding the river where it is most -fordable, this fort served as a protection to Conception against the -combined fury of the Spaniards and indians. - -In the afternoon we crossed the Bio-bio, and arrived at Conception. The -river Bio-bio, which is two miles in breadth at San Pedro, rises in the -Cordillera, and enters the sea about five miles to the south of -Talcahuano, the port of Conception, having two mountains at the mouth -called _las tetas de Bio-bio_, paps of Bio-bio. It is navigable by -canoes and flats to a considerable distance from the mouth. The finest -timber grows on its banks, which the wars of conquest and emancipation -have repeatedly deluged with blood! - -The city of Conception de Mocha, or Penco, the original name of the -country where it stands, was founded in the year 1550 by Don Pedro de -Valdivia; sacked and burnt by the Toqui Lautaro in 1553, and again -destroyed in 1603. The indians were repulsed by Don Garcia Hurtado de -Mendoza, and it was rebuilt; but a dreadful earthquake ruined it in -1730, when the sea was driven up to the city and inundated the -surrounding country. Conception is built on a sandy uneven soil, six -miles east of Talcahuana, its sea-port, and about one mile north of the -Bio-bio A small river called the Andalien runs through the city, -supplying a beautiful fountain in the principal square. According to -Ulloa its latitude is 36° 43´ 15´´ south, and its longitude 72° 54´. - -In 1803 the government of this city was in the hands of a Governor, -nominated by the King, and a _Cabildo_, corporation, at the head of -which were two Alcaldes ordinarios or mayors. The Cabildo is formed of -eight Regidors and four other officers, who are called, de officio, -Alferes real, royal ensign; Alcalde de provincia, provincial alcalde; -Alguasil mayor, city sheriff; and Fiel Executor, examiner of weights and -measures. Each member has an elective vote and a Sindico Procurador, who -has consulting powers.[4] - -The alcaldes are annually elected by the regidors (without any -interference whatever of the governor) out of the resident citizens, -with the exception of ecclesiastics, soldiers, and debtors to the crown. -If one of the alcaldes die or be absent, the eldest regidor exercises -his functions. A demand of justice may be made to the alcalde, but there -is an appeal to the audience at Santiago, the capital of Chile. This -court was first established at Conception in 1567, but removed to -Santiago in 1574. For the military department an intendente, _maestre de -campo_, and quarter master are provided. Here is also a chamber of -finances, with an accountant and treasurer. - -Conception is the see of a bishop, that of Imperial, as before stated, -having been transferred to this city in 1620. It is a suffragan of Lima, -and its chapter consists of a dean, archdeacon, and four prebendaries. - -Besides the armed militia of the place and province, a regular military -force has always been kept up ready to repel any attempt of the -Araucanians on Conception, the frontier towns or forts. Since 1819 an -army has been stationed here under the command of General Freire, upon -whom the indians have on one occasion made an attack. They were led by -Benavides, and passed to Talcahuano, where they committed several -murders. - -A new cathedral has been begun, but owing to the convulsed state of the -country the work is suspended, and will probably never be resumed. The -building is of brick and stone, and possesses some merit. The timber -which had been collected for this edifice was applied to other purposes -by the Spanish General Sanches. There are four conventual churches--the -Franciscan, Dominican, Agustinian, Mercedarian; one nunnery with the -avocation of our Lady of Conception, and the hospital of San Juan de -Dios. The convents are attached to their respective provincialates of -Santiago. When General Sanches retired from Conception in 1819, he -ordered several of the best houses in the city to be burnt, opened the -nunnery, and took the nuns with him, but abandoned them at Tucapel, -where these victims of a barbarous chief yet remain among the indians, -having been persuaded by Sanches and some Spanish priests, that to -return to their home would be treason to their King, the Lord's -anointed, and subject them to all the miseries temporal and eternal of -an excommunication _de ipso facto incurrenda_. - -The houses are commonly one story high, but some are two, built of -_tapia_, mud walls; or _adoves_, large sun-dried bricks, and all of -them are tiled. The largest have a court-yard in front, with an entrance -through arched porches, and heavy folding doors, having a postern on one -side. Two small rooms usually complete the front view. The windows have -iron gratings, with many parts of them gilt, and inside shutters, but no -glass. This article has been too dear, and it is consequently only used -in the windows of the principal dwelling apartments of the richer -classes. On each side of the court, or _patio_, there are rooms for -domestics, the younger branches of the family, and other purposes. In -front of the entrance are the principal ones, generally three; a species -of large hall, furnished with antique chairs, with leather backs and -seats, and one or more clumsy couches to correspond in shape and -hardness, a large table made of oak or some similar wood, and very often -a few old full-length portraits of persons belonging to the family, -hanging in gilt frames. The beams of the roof, which are visible, are -not unfrequently ornamented with a profusion of carved work. Two folding -doors open into the parlour: the side next the front patio is raised -about twelve inches above the floor, which is carpetted, and furnished -with a row of low stools, covered with crimson velvet, with cushions to -match at their feet, and a small table about eighteen inches high, as a -work table, or for the convenience of making mate. This portion of the -parlour is allotted to the ladies, who sit upon it cross-legged: a -custom no doubt derived from the moors. If a gentleman be on familiar -terms with the family, he will take a seat on one of the stools on the -_estrado_, or cross his legs and sit among the ladies; more especially -if he can play on the guitar, or sing, which are the favourite -accomplishments. Other male visitors, after bowing to the ladies, seat -themselves on the opposite side, where chairs are placed to match the -stools and cushions. Facing the entrance to the parlour is the principal -dormitory, with an alcove at the end of the estrado, where a state bed -is displayed, ornamented with a profusion of gilt work, and fitted up -with velvet, damask, or brocade curtains, and gold or silver lace and -fringe. The sheets and pillow cases are of the finest linen, and trimmed -with deep lace. Not unfrequently one or more silver utensils peep from -underneath. It appears as if the whole attention of the females were -devoted to this useless pageant, which is only used on the occasion of a -birth, when the lady receives the first visits of congratulation. - -Behind this part of the building there is another court, or patio, -where the kitchen and other appropriate apartments are situated, and -behind the whole is the garden. Thus it is not uncommon for a house to -occupy fifty yards in front and eighty yards in depth, including the -garden. The patios have corridors round them, the roofs of which are -supported by wooden pillars. The dwellings of the lower classes are on -the same plan, except that they have no courts or patios, the fronts -being open to the street; but they have usually a garden at the back, -where the kitchen is built separately from the house, as a precaution -against fire. - -In the principal square stand the cathedral and bishop's palace on one -side; the barracks with a corridor on another; the governor's palace and -its offices on the third, and some of the larger houses on the fourth. -The extent of the square is about one hundred yards on each side. The -streets cross each other at right angles. The generality of the cities -and large towns in South America are built according to this -arrangement. - -Among the inhabitants are to be found some families of ancient nobility. -The present Duke de San Carlos, a grandee of the first class, and late -Spanish Ambassador in England, is of the family of the Caravajales, and -a native of Conception. - -The dress of the men is similar to the European, but either a long -Spanish cloak or a poncho is worn over it, the latter being generally -preferred, particularly for riding--an exercise of which both the ladies -and gentlemen are very fond, and in which they excel. The women wear a -bodice fancifully ornamented, and over a large round hoop, a plaited -petticoat of coloured flannel, black velvet or brocade. In the house -they have no head dress, but in the streets, if going to church, the -head is covered with a piece of brown flannel, about a yard broad, and -two long; if on pleasure or a visit, a black hat similar to the men's is -worn, under which a muslin shawl is thrown over the head. Many of the -young women prefer the _basquiña y manton_, a black silk or stuff -petticoat without a hoop, and a black silk or lace veil; but others like -the hoop, as it shews their slender waists to advantage. The hair is -braided, or platted, hanging in loose tresses down their backs. The -ladies are so fond of jewellery that necklaces, ear-rings, bracelets and -finger-rings are never dispensed with; and some of the principal wear -diamonds and other precious stones of great value. The rosary, too, is a -necessary part of the dress of both old and young. - -During the summer, and in fine weather, the evening is dedicated to a -promenade, generally on the banks of the Bio-bio, and afterwards to -friendly visits. The luxury of harmony and friendship is enjoyed in all -its extent. The guitar, the song, the dance and refreshments are to be -found in every street. Conviviality takes the reins, whilst affection -and esteem curb the grosser passions. - -The climate is similar to that of the southern provinces of France. The -winter season is rainy, but not cold; and the heat of the summer sun is -moderated by the winds from the south, which are cooled by travelling -over the Pacific; or by those from the east, which are refreshed by -passing over the snowy tops of the Cordillera. - -The jurisdiction of Conception extends from the river Maule in 34° 50´ -to Cape Lavapies in 37° 10´. In it are the _correginientos_ or -prefectures of Puchacay and Rere. Its principal towns and villages are -Gualqui, San Juan, Quilpolemu, Luanco, Villavicencio, Comicó, and -Chillan, which was ruined by the Araucanians in 1599, and has not since -been a place of much note. - -The inhabitants of this province consist of a few Spaniards, some white -creoles, mestizos, a few slaves of different colours, and fewer indians, -the aboriginal tribe of Promaucians being now extinct. The whites or -Creoles are a very fine race. The men are well formed, and have regular -features and good complexions. The women are generally handsome and -remarkably polite. The mestizos can scarcely be distinguished from the -whites, and it is perhaps their situation in life, not the -uncontroulable accident of birth which constitutes the difference. The -greatest blessing to a stranger, hospitality, is the constant inmate, or -rather ruler of every house, cottage or cabin; and, contrary to the -rites of other hospitable people, who limit this virtue to a stated -period, the longer a stranger remains the more kindly is he treated. -Those who come to visit are often tempted to establish a residence, and -may positively call themselves strangers at home. - -Nature has been extremely bountiful to this country. Its equable and -mild climate, and its rich soil produce every fruit, pulse and vegetable -known in Europe, if we except some exotics, which have been reared in -the more southern latitudes: oranges, lemons, sugar-cane, bananas and -sweet potatoes do not thrive here, owing perhaps more to the cold rains -in the winter than to any other cause. Horned cattle, and horses, of an -excellent quality, are in great plenty. The vineyards are numerous and -fertile. Those near the river Maule yield a grape of a very superior -taste, from which a large supply of wine is produced for home -consumption and for the Lima market, where any quantity is acceptable -and finds a ready sale. For want of proper vessels, however, a large -portion is lost, and the quality of the whole much injured. Light wines -might be made equal to the best French, and generous ones equal to -Sherry and Madeira. A sort of wine called Muscadel far exceeds that of -the same name in Spain, and is quite as good as Frontignac. The simple -utensils used are made of baked clay, in which the juice is fermented -and the wines preserved, having only a wooden cover. Notwithstanding -such disadvantages, some of the wines are of remarkably good strength -and flavour. Their brandy, from a want of proper vessels, is also -greatly deteriorated. The vines mostly grow on espaliers, and are not -detached stems as in the generality of the European vineyards. - -Excellent wheat is produced in great abundance, the crops yielding from -eighty to one hundred fold. Very large quantities are annually sent to -Lima, Guayaquil, Panama, and Chiloe. The average price at Conception is -ten reals for 216 pounds weight, about five shillings and sixpence; and -at Lima thirty reals, or sixteen shillings and sixpence. It may be -considered the great staple commodity of the country.--Barley, maize, -_garbansos_, beans, _quinua_, and lentils are also cultivated for -exportation, and yield heavy crops. Potatoes, radishes and other -esculents, as well as all kinds of culinary vegetables and useful herbs -are raised in the gardens. The _zapallo_ is very much and justly -esteemed, being, when green, equal to asparagus, and when ripe, similar -to a good potatoe. It will keep in a dry place for six months. Tobacco -was formerly grown near the river Maule, but the royal monopoly put an -end to its cultivation, which on the emancipation of the country will -probably again be attended to. - -The greater portion of these rich lands is appropriated to the breeding -and fattening of horned cattle, goats and sheep, and the necessary -attendance upon them forms the chief occupation of the lower classes. -The generality of the cows are never milked, but are left to rear their -calves in the plains. When the latter are a year old they are separated, -branded, and put on another part of the farm, for enclosed fields or -pastures are a refinement with which the graziers of South America are -unacquainted. Indeed the farms themselves are divided by such landmarks -as a hill, a mountain, a river, the sea, &c. The price of land being -low, disagreements respecting boundaries are very rare. - -Land in the interior, of such quality as to produce every sort of grain, -or to feed all kinds of cattle, is often sold for a dollar, or even much -less, the _quadra_, one hundred square yards, being more than two acres. -When the horned cattle are sufficiently fat, or rather at the killing -season, which is about the months of February and March, from five -hundred to a thousand, according to the size of the farm, are -slaughtered. The whole of the fat is separated from the meat and melted, -forming a kind of lard called _grasa_, which is employed in domestic -purposes. The tallow is also kept separate, and the meat is jerked. This -process is performed by cutting the fleshy substance into slices of -about a quarter of an inch thick, leaving out all the bones. The natives -are so dexterous at this work that they will cut the whole of a leg, or -any other large part of a bullock into one uniformly thin piece. The -meat thus cut is either dipped into a very strong solution of salt and -water, or rubbed over with a small quantity of fine salt. Whichever mode -of curing is adopted, the whole of the jerked meat is put on the hide -and rolled up for ten or twelve hours, or until the following morning. -It is then hung on lines or poles, to dry in the sun, which being -accomplished, it is made into bundles, lashed with thongs of fresh hide, -forming a kind of network, and is ready for market. In this operation it -loses about one third of its original weight. The dried meat, _charqui_, -finds immediate sale at Lima, Arica, Guayaquil, Panama and other places. -Besides the large quantity consumed in Chile, it furnishes a great part -of the food of the lower classes, the slaves, and particularly the -seamen, being the general substitute for salt beef and pork. The _grasa_ -and tallow are also readily sold at the places above mentioned, and are -of more value than the meat. The hides are generally consumed in making -bags for grain, pulse, &c., thongs for the various purposes to which -rope is applied in Europe, or leather of a very good quality. - -The slaughtering season is as much a time of diversion for the -inhabitants of this country as a sheep-shearing is in England. For two -or three days the peasants, _huasos_, are busy collecting the cattle -from the woods and mountains, and driving them into an enclosure made -for the purpose. The fat and lean cattle being mixed together, the -latter are separated from the former, and driven out; after which one -fixed upon for slaughter is allowed to pass the gate, where a peasant -stands armed with a sharp instrument in the shape of a crescent, having -the points about a foot apart, and as the beast passes he first cuts the -hamstring of one leg, and then of the other. Should he miss his aim, a -bystander follows the animal at full gallop, and throws the laso over -its horns, by which it is caught and detained till another comes up, and -either hamstrings or casts a second laso round its hind legs, when the -two men, riding in different directions, throw the beast down, and -immediately kill it. One of them now takes off the skin, collects into -it the tallow and fat, which with the meat he carries to a shed, when -the process of jerking, salting, &c. as already described, is -immediately begun. - -The females in the mean time are all busy cutting up the fat, frying it -for grasa, and selecting some of the finer meat for presents and home -consumption. The tongues are the only part of the head that is eaten, -the remainder being left to rot. In the above manner great numbers of -cattle are annually killed, their bones being left to whiten on the -ground where they fed. - -It is surprizing to Europeans and other strangers to see with what -dexterity the laso is thrown. Made of platted or twisted raw hide, it is -about one and a half inch in circumference, sometimes less, and being -greased in the process of its manufacture, is extremely pliable, -stronger than any other kind of rope of treble the thickness, and very -durable. The length is from twenty to thirty feet, and at one end is a -noose, through which a part of the thong being passed a running knot is -formed. Instead of the noose there are occasionally a button and loop. -The _huaso_ (or laso thrower) extending the opening formed by passing -the thong through the noose, lays hold of the laso, and begins to whirl -it over his head, taking care that the opening does not close. Having -determined on his object the laso is thrown with unerring precision. A -bullock is caught by the horns, and a horse or a sheep by the neck; and -as this is often done at full speed, the peasant will wind the end of -the laso which he holds round his body, and suddenly stopping his horse, -the entangled animal receives such a check that it is frequently upset. -One end of the laso is often made fast to the sursingle, or girth of the -saddle, particularly when a bull or large bullock is to be caught. On -such occasions the horse, as if aware of the resistance he will have to -make, turns his side towards the object, and inclines his body in the -opposite direction. I have seen him dragged along by the beast, his feet -making furrows in the ground, for more than two yards. The people are so -expert in this art and so attached to it, that it is deemed quite -disgraceful to miss the object. Several of the higher classes exercise -it as an amusement, and not only in Chile, but in almost every part of -South America which I visited; all classes, when residing in the -country, carry the laso behind the saddle. Even the children are often -seen throwing the laso, and catching the poultry, dogs and cats, in the -houses, yards or streets. Thus this necessary accomplishment grows up -with these people. In the late wars it has not been uncommon for the -militia to carry their lasos, with which great numbers of Spanish -soldiers have been caught and strangled. The rider being at full speed, -the moment it was thrown, the unfortunate fellow who happened to be -entangled could not extricate himself, and was dragged at the heels of -his adversary's horse until he was killed. - -Goats are fattened for their tallow and skins, which latter besides -their application to the purposes of holding wine, spirits, cider, &c. -are generally tanned with the bark of the _palque_ or the _peumo_, -instead of that of oak, and for shoes and similar articles make an -excellent leather, called _cordovan_. The goats are altogether -productive of great profit. - -Some of the horses in the province of Conception are excellent, being -similar in size and shape to the famous Andalusian. They are much valued -in all South America, and fetch very high prices in Peru. I have seen -them at Quito, which, considering the difficulties of transport that are -to be surmounted, is a very great distance; but although every effort -has been used to preserve the breed out of the territory of Chile, it -has as yet been unavailing. - -All kinds of provisions are plentiful in this province; poultry is -remarkably cheap, fat and well flavoured; ducks and geese breed twice -every year; turkeys and barn door fowls during the whole year; and from -the mildness of the climate the broods thrive with little loss. The -prices are consequently low: a good fat turkey may be bought for about -one shilling, and fowls for sixpence a couple. - -Apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, plums and cherries, are produced in -such profusion that they are considered of no value. Figs are abundant -and good; and the strawberry grows wild; I have seen some nearly as -large as a hen's egg. The melons and _sandias_, water melons, are also -very large, and are extremely nice, particularly the latter, to which -the natives are partial. Olives do not thrive here. Near the river Maule -there are cocoa nut trees or palms, differing from the other species of -the same genus in the size of the nut, which is usually about as big as -a walnut. Some of the trees are thirty feet high; the trunk is -cylindrical, and free from leaves except at the top, where, similar to -other palms, they form a circle, presenting a most beautiful appearance. -The flowers are in four large clusters at the top of the tree, from -whence the leaves spring. When in bud they are enclosed in a fibrous -woody sheath, and when the fruit begins to form the spathe divides -itself into two parts, each about three feet long and two broad. A bunch -or cluster, often contains as many as a thousand nuts. Nothing can be -more striking than this tree under the burden of its fruit, over which -the branches form a kind of dome, supported by the column-like stem. The -fruit resembles in every respect the tropical cocoa nut; the kernel is -globular, having a space in the centre, which, when the nut is green, is -filled with an agreeable milky tasted liquor, but when dry is quite -empty. A curious method is employed for divesting the nuts of their -outer rind. They are given to the horned cattle, and being swallowed by -them, the filaceous substance is digested, and the nuts voided quite -clean. All those sent to market have previously undergone this process! -If a bunch of flowers or green nuts be cut from the palm, a large -quantity of thick sweet sap, similar to honey, is yielded, and on the -stem of the tree being tapped the same liquor is produced; this -operation however weakens it so much, that the palm either dies or gives -no more fruit for a number of years. The greatest quantity of this sap -is obtained by cutting down the tree, and lighting a fire at the end -where the branches grow: as the tree burns, the sap is driven out at the -root and collected in calabashes; fuel is gradually supplied, until the -whole of the trunk is consumed, and all the sap extracted, which -sometimes amounts to about forty gallons. This tree seldom bears fruit -till it is one hundred years old. Whether it be indigenous to Chile, or -the produce of the tropical cocoa nut planted here, I could never -ascertain. The natives make baskets of the leaves, and sometimes thatch -their cottages with them. Walnuts are also grown, and together with -cocoa nuts are exported to Lima, Guayaquil, &c. The _gevuin_ is another -species of nut, called by the Spaniards _avellano_, from its taste being -like that of the hazel nut. This tree grows to the height of fifteen -feet; the fruit is round, about three quarters of an inch in diameter, -and covered with a coriaceous shell, which is at first green, afterwards -of an orange colour, and when ripe of a dark brown; the kernel is -divided into two lobes, and is generally toasted before being eaten. The -_molle_ may be classed without impropriety among the fruit trees, -because the indians prepare from its berries (which are black, the size -of peas, and grow in small clusters round the slender branches of the -tree) a kind of red and very palatable wine, called _chicha_ or _molle_. -Frazier says in his voyage, "it is as pleasant and as strong as wine, if -not more so." The taste is really agreeable, and its flavour peculiarly -aromatic. - -The _maqui_ is another tree, bearing a fruit like a _guind_, or wild -cherry, from which a pleasant fermented beverage is made, called -_theca_. The people are fond of the fruit, and parties go into the woods -to gather it. A friend told me, that in one of these excursions, when a -boy, he had wandered into a wood to gather maqui, and seeing a woman in -a tree with her face of a purple colour, he supposed that she had been -rubbing it with the fruit for the sake of frightening him; however, -determined to shew his courage, he ascended the tree, when, to his great -surprise and terror, he found that it was an idiot belonging to the -village, who had hanged herself with her handkerchief tied to one of the -uppermost branches! The peumo produces a fruit which is much liked, -though I never could eat it on account of its strong oily and rather -rancid smell. The tree is tall, and its fruit has the appearance of -green olives; to prepare it for eating it is dipped in warm water, but -not boiled, because that operation renders it bitter. The pulp is -whitish and buttery, and I have no doubt that as large a quantity of oil -might be obtained from it as from the olive. Great quantities of -_murtillas_, myrtle berries, are found in this province, and are very -delicate. Pernetty, who saw some in the Falkland Isles, or Malvinas, -says, "the fruit is of a beautiful appearance and very pleasant taste; -by being put into brandy with a little sugar, it forms a delicious -liquor, which has in a slight degree the smell of ambergris and of musk, -by no means disagreeable even to persons who dislike those perfumes." -From these berries the natives also make an agreeable fermented liquor, -_chicha de murtilla_. The _arrayan_, a myrtle, grows to the height of -seventy feet. The fruit, which is about the size of a large pea, is -eaten, and has a pleasant taste. A delicate liquor is made from it, and -the wood is very valuable. - -The principal trees found in the province of Conception are the -_canelo_, or _boghi_, which grows to the height of fifty feet, and -produces good timber. It has two barks; the inner one is whitish, but -when dried assumes the colour of cinnamon, and somewhat resembles that -spice in taste. The Araucanians entertain so much veneration for this -tree, that a branch of it is always presented as a token of peace, and -when a treaty is concluded it is tied to the top of the Toqui's axe, and -the President's _baton_. The luma grows from forty to fifty feet high; -its wood is tough, and is used for small spars and oars, but it is too -heavy for masts. Large cargoes are sent to Lima for coach making and -rafters. On rich soils the _espino_ attains the size of an oak. Its wood -is very solid and of a dark brown, veined with black and yellow, and is -capable of receiving an excellent polish. It is used for cart wheels, -being very ponderous and durable, and makes excellent fuel, and the -hardest and best charcoal. The flowers of the espino are flosculous, of -a deep yellow colour, and so very fragrant that they are called -_aromas_. A species cultivated in the gardens bears a larger flower, -which having a long and slender footstalk, is often inserted by the -ladies in the flower of the jessamine and placed in their hair. The -joint scent of the two is delightful. The _pehuen_, or _pino de la -tierra_, grows in the southern parts of this province, but it arrives at -greater perfection in Araucania. It is from seventy to eighty feet high, -and eight in circumference. At the height of thirty feet it has -generally four opposite horizontal branches, which gradually decrease in -extent until they terminate in a point at the top, presenting the form -of a quadrangular pyramid. The cone, or fruit, resembles that of the -pine, and the seeds are considered a great delicacy. These _piñones_, as -they are called, are sometimes boiled, and afterwards, by grinding them -on a stone, converted into a kind of paste, from which very delicate -pastry is made. The pino is cultivated in different parts of this -province on account of its valuable wood and the piñones; it may be -said, indeed, to be the only tree, except those which yield wine, to -which the natives pay any attention. The resin exuding from it is called -_incienso_, and is used by the Chileans as incense. - -The banks of the Bio-bio are thickly covered with both red and white -cedar trees, some of which are seventy feet high, and twenty in -circumference. They are split into slender planks, for slight work, but -their exportation from this province is not great, because the deals can -be purchased at a much lower price in Chiloe, where, I have been -informed by persons of veracity, there are cedars which yield from eight -to nine hundred boards, twenty feet long, twelve inches broad and one -thick. It is said that water keeps better at sea in casks made of the -red cedar, than in those of any other wood. The _floripondio_ grows to -the height of six feet, and has a profusion of delightfully fragrant -pendant flowers, which are white, bell-shaped, and from eight to ten -inches long, and three in diameter at the mouth. Their odour partakes of -that of the lily, and one tree, when in bloom, is sufficient to perfume -a whole garden. The floripondio arrives at greater perfection on the -coasts of Peru, where it is seen in the hedgerows. A species of cactus, -_quisco_, is very common in some parts of this province; it bears thorns -from eight to nine inches long, of which the females make knitting -needles. - -There are a great variety of shrubs in the forests of Conception, and -some of them are very aromatic. Those which are particularly useful for -dyeing are the _diu_, _thila_ and _uthin_, of which the bark and leaves -dye black. The juice of the berries of the _tara_, and of the _mayu_ are -used for writing ink, as well as for dyeing. The leaves of the _culen_, -another shrub, have a taste somewhat similar to tea, for which they are -often substituted. They are considered a vermifuge and a tonic. Frazier -says, that the culen produces a balsam, very efficacious in healing -wounds; but I never witnessed this quality. Senna grows luxuriantly near -the Maule, and is equally as good as that of the Levant; an infusion of -its leaves is often given, and I believe successfully, as a diuretic, -particularly in calculous complaints. A shrub called here the _palqui_, -and in Peru the holy herb, _yerba santa_, is thought to be an antidote -to inflammatory diseases; for this purpose the green leaves are soaked -in water, then rubbed between the hands, and again soaked, until the -water be quite green, in which state a copious draught is taken; and for -external inflammation it is applied as a wash. There are several wild -plants which yield bright and permanent colours for dyeing. Red is -obtained from the _relbun_, a species of madder; _Contra yerba_, a kind -of agrimony, furnishes yellow, as does another plant called _poquel_; a -violet is procured from the _culli_ and the _rosoli_; and the _panqui_ -yields a permanent black. This peculiar plant grows in moist swampy -places; its height is from five to six feet, and the principal stem is -sometimes six inches in diameter; the leaves are roundish, rough and -thick, and at full growth are three feet in diameter. When the plant is -in perfection, the natives cut it down, and split the stem, which -contains a large portion of tanin. The black for dyeing is obtained from -the expressed juice of the root. - -I scarcely ever met with any person in this province who did not assure -me that gold mines were to be found in numberless places; I certainly -never saw any worked, but the universal assurance of the inhabitants, -and what has been written by Molina, Frazier, and other persons of -veracity, leave me no room to doubt their existence. - -Among the feathered tribe I observed a bird about the size of a pullet, -having black and white feathers, a thick neck, rather large head, a -strong bill a little curved, and on the fore part of the wings two -reddish spurs, like those of a young dunghill cock. It is on the alert -the moment it is alarmed, and rising from the ground, hovers over the -object which has disturbed it. The noise which it makes when in this -situation, and which is probably intended as a signal of danger to other -birds; has induced some of the natives to call it _tero-tero_; but -others name it _despertador_, awakener. Finches, _gilgueros_, and the -_thili_, a kind of thrush, are numerous, as are the grey and red -partridge. Both the latter birds are much esteemed, though I preferred -the large wood pigeons, _torcasas_, some of which are the size of a -small pullet. Feeding entirely on herbage, they are particularly fond of -the leaves of turnips, and they make their appearance in such numbers -that they would destroy a whole field in one day. Their flesh is of a -dark colour, but juicy and savoury. Of the larger species of herons I -saw three different kinds, one as large as the European heron, and quite -similar to it; one of a milk white colour, with a neck more than two -feet long, and its red slender legs equally long; and another not quite -so large, with a beautiful tuft of white feathers on its head. In -several places near the coast I observed flamingoes, and was charmed -with their delicate pink plumage; they are not eaten by the natives. I -also remarked several species of wild ducks, and three of wild geese; -one called of the Cordillera is very good eating, the others I was told -are strong and fishy. The wild swan is as large as the European swan, -but is not so handsome. It has a black bill and feet, black and white -plumage, and is in shape much like a goose, but is never eaten. I had in -my possession a tame eagle, which measured ten feet from one tip of its -wings to the other; its breast was white spotted with black, the neck -and back also black, and the tail and wings of a brown tinge with -transverse black stripes. I saw several of the same kind and others of a -smaller species in the woods. Parrots very much abound, but their -plumage is not handsome, being of a dirty dead green. These birds are -very destructive of the fruit and maize. - -At Villavicencio I was highly entertained in hunting a _pagi_, or -Chilean lion. On our arrival the people were preparing to destroy this -enemy to their cattle; several dogs were collected from the neighbouring -farms, and some of the young men of the surrounding country were in -great hopes of taking him alive with their lasos, and of afterwards -baiting him in the village for the diversion of the ladies; whilst -others were desirous of signalizing the prowess of their favourite dogs. -All of them were determined to kill this ravenous brute, which had -caused much damage, particularly among their horses. The hunt was the -only subject of conversation on the Sunday, which was the day fixed for -its occurrence. At four o'clock we left the village, more than twenty in -number, each leading a dog, and having a chosen laso on his arm, ready -to throw at a moment's warning. About a mile from the village we -separated, by different bye-roads, into five or six parties, the men -taking the dogs on their horses, to prevent, as they said, the -possibility of the scent being discovered by the pagi. All noise was -avoided--even the smoking of segars was dispensed with, lest the smell -should alarm their prey, and they should lose their sport. The party -which I joined consisted of five individuals. After riding about four -miles we arrived at a small rivulet, where a young colt was tied to a -tree, having been taken for that purpose. We then retired about three -hundred yards, and the colt being alone began to neigh, which had the -desired effect, for before sunset one of our party, placed in advance, -let go his dog and whistled, at which signal three other dogs were -loosed and ran towards the place where the colt had been left. We -immediately followed, and soon found the pagi with his back against a -tree, defending himself against his adversaries. On our appearance he -seemed inclined to make a start and attempt an escape. The lasos were -immediately in motion, when four more dogs came up, and shortly -afterwards their masters, who hearing the noise had ridden to the spot -as fast as the woods would permit them. The poor brute seemed now to -fear the increase of his enemies. However he maintained his post and -killed three of our dogs; at which the owner of one of them became so -enraged, that he threw his laso round the neck of the pagi, when the -dogs, supposing the onset more secure, sprang on him, and he was soon -overpowered, but so dreadfully wounded and torn that it became necessary -to put an end to his life. The length of this animal from the nose to -the root of the tail was five feet four inches, and from the bottom of -the foot to the top of the shoulder thirty-one inches. Its head was -round, and much like that of a cat, the upper lip being entire, and -supplied with whiskers; the nose flat, the eyes large, of a brownish -hue, but very much suffused with blood; the ears short and pointed. It -had no mane. The neck, back and sides were of a dusky ash colour, with -some yellowish spots; the belly of a dirty white; the hair on its -buttocks long and shaggy. Each jaw was armed with four cutting, four -canine, and sixteen grinding teeth; each of its fore paws and hind feet -with five toes, and very strong talons. Four lasos attached to the -girths of the saddles of two horses were fastened to the pagi, which -was thus dragged to the village, where we arrived about nine o'clock, -and were received by the whole of the inhabitants with shouting and -rejoicing. The remainder of the night was spent in dancing and -carousing. - -The people informed me that the favourite food of the pagi is -horse-flesh; that watching a good opportunity it jumps upon the back of -its prey, which it worries, tearing the flesh with one paw whilst it -secures its hold with the other; after sucking the blood it drags the -carcase to some hiding place, covers it with leaves, and returns when -hungry to devour it. If it enter a place where horned cattle are kept, -the bulls and cows immediately form a circle, and place the calves and -young cattle in the centre; they then face their enemy boldly, and not -unfrequently oblige him to retreat, on which happening, the bulls follow -him and often gore him to death. It would therefore appear to be more -from fear than choice that he is attached to the flesh of horses. The -animal was never known to attack a man; so timid is he of the human -race, that he runs away at the appearance of a child, which may perhaps -be accounted for from the abundance of cattle supplying him so easily -with food that he is seldom in want of flesh. - -The _vicuña_ and _guanaco_ are known in Chile; I shall however defer a -description of them until I treat of the _llama_ and _alpaca_ of Peru. -The _chilihueque_, spoken of by several travellers, seems to be the same -as the _llama_, but as I never saw it I am unable to determine this -point. The description and properties of the two are very similar. The -_culpen_ is a species of fox, and is very destructive to poultry and -lambs. It is rather more foolish than daring, but not void of the latter -quality. It will advance within eight or ten paces of a man, and after -looking at him for some time, will retire carelessly, unless pursued, -when it betakes itself to the bush. Its colour is a dark reddish brown, -with a long straight tail covered with shaggy hair; its height is about -two feet. For the preservation of the lambs against this enemy the -natives train their dogs to the care of the flock in a curious manner. A -young puppy is taken, before its eyes are open, and an ewe is forced to -suckle it every night and morning until it can follow the flock, when, -either under the direction of a shepherd boy, or in company with an old -trained dog, it is taught to keep the sheep together, to follow them in -the morning to graze, and to drive them to the fold at night. It is -never allowed to follow its master. No shepherd could be more faithful -to his trust than one of these dogs; it leaves the fold with the flock -in the morning, watches it carefully during the day, keeping off the -foxes, eagles and other animals, and returns with it at sunset. It -sleeps in the fold, and the sheep become so habituated to the society of -their guardian that they allow him to wander among them without any -alarm. At night, when the dog arrives with his charge, he first drives -them into the fold; he then runs two or three times round it, as if to -be certain of its safety against any lurking enemy, and afterwards goes -to the house and barks, but immediately returns to the fold, where he -waits for his supper. If it be brought he remains quiet, otherwise he -again visits the house and barks until he is properly attended to, when -he lays himself down among the sheep. Some people have imagined that it -is a peculiar breed of dogs that are so trained, but this is an error -which experience enables me to contradict; for I have seen several -different kinds in charge of different flocks, the whole of their -sagacity being the effect of their training. Whilst on the topic of the -training of animals I cannot refrain from mentioning the ridiculous -appearance of the capons, which are taught to rear broods of chickens. -When one or more hens bring forth their young, these are taken from -them, and a capon being caught, some of the feathers are plucked from -its breast and the inner part of its thighs, and the animal is flogged -with nettles, and is then put under a basket with the young chickens. -This is generally done in the evening, and in the morning, after -brooding the chickens all night, the old capon struts forth with its -adopted family, clucking and searching for food with as much activity as -the most motherly old hen! I was told that capons rear a brood much -better than hens; and I have seen one of them with upwards of thirty -chickens. The hen being thus freed from her brood soon begins to lay -eggs again, which is a very great advantage. - -After an excursion of three weeks, I returned to Conception with my -friend, Don Santiago Dias, to whom I brought letters of introduction -from my good host at Arauco, Don Nicolas del Rio, which were most -willingly attended to, and rendered my detention as a prisoner of war a -delightful series of excursions into the country, and of parties of -pleasure in the city. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[4] I have made particular mention of the form of the Cabildos, because -they have been preserved since the revolution just as they existed -before it. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - Sent to Talcahuano....Description of the Bay and Anchorage....Plain - between Conception and Talcahuano....Prospectus of a Soap - Manufactory here....Coal Mine....Town, Custom-house, Inhabitants, - &c....Fish, &c. caught in the Bay....Colonial - Commerce....Prospectus of a Sawing Mill. - - -After staying a few days at Conception, I was sent for by the governor -to Talcahuano, a ship being there ready to sail for Lima. I took with me -a note to a resident in the port, and was received by him with the -greatest possible kindness; he requested me to make his house my home -until the ship should be ready to sail; a request with which I very -willingly complied. - -The bay of Talcahuano is one of the largest on the western shores of -South America: from north to south its length is about ten miles, that -is from the main land on one side to the main land on the other; from -east to west it is seven miles. In the mouth of the bay lies the island -Quiriquina, forming two entrances; that on the east side is the safer, -being two miles wide with thirty fathoms water, decreasing gradually -towards the usual anchorage at Talcahuano, where, about half a mile -from the shore, there are ten fathoms water. It is well sheltered from -the north wind; but the swell is so great during a norther (as the north -winds are here called) that it is almost impossible to land, though at -any other time the landing is good on any part of the beach. - -From Conception to Talcahuano, a distance of six miles, the surface of -the ground is composed of loose sand intermixed with sea shells; about -half a yard deep a continued stratum of marine shells is found, exactly -similar to those shell-fish with which the sea abounds at this place: -they are the _choro_, muscle, _pie de burra_, or ass's foot, the -_bulgados_, a species of snail, and the _picos_, barnacles. This stratum -is generally from twelve to fifteen feet thick; and a similar one is -found in the hills, three hundred feet above the level of the sea; -being, no doubt, the effect of some tremendous earthquake, which took -place before this country was known to the old world; for it is certain, -that what now constitutes the valley of Penco or Conception was at some -remote period a part of the Pacific Ocean. From these shells all the -lime used in building is procured. The land between Talcahuano and -Conception is not fit for cultivation; it presents rather a dreary -appearance; however, some cattle graze on the marshy or low parts, and -their meat is considered very delicate. Abundance of salsola grows in -this neighbourhood, from which kali might be procured in great -quantities for the purpose of manufacturing soap, which, as tallow and -other fat can be bought here at a low rate, would be a very lucrative -speculation. Soap bears a high price in Peru, and in almost every part -of the country, being seldom under forty dollars the quintal or hundred -pounds weight in Lima, and higher in the interior. The facility of -procuring good lime and plenty of fuel would be of importance to such an -establishment, besides which, the cheapness of copper, from the mines of -Coquimbo and Copiapo, for making the necessary utensils, is an advantage -of some consideration. - -Of all the Spanish writers Herrera alone makes mention of the existence -of coal in the province of Conception. In Dec. 8, 1. 6, c. 11, he says, -"there is a coal mine upon the beach near to the city of Conception; it -burns like charcoal;" and he was not mistaken, for the stratum does -exist on the north side of the bay of Talcahuano, near the anchorage on -that side, and very near the ruins of Penco Viejo, which was destroyed -by the earthquake in 1730, and not rebuilt, because the present -anchorage was considered preferable. To what extent the coal reaches -has never yet been ascertained; all that has been used has been obtained -by throwing aside the mould which covers the surface. This coal is -similar in appearance to the English cannel, but it is reasonable to -suppose, that if the mine were dug to any considerable depth, the -quality would be found to improve, and that the work might be productive -of immense wealth to its possessor. - -There is a custom-house at Talcahuano, and the necessary officers for -collecting the importation and exportation duties; barracks for the -garrison belonging to the small battery, a house for the residence of -the commanding officer, a parish church, also about a hundred houses, -with several large stores, _bodegas_, for corn, wine, and other goods. -The population consists of about five hundred inhabitants, principally -muleteers, porters, and fishermen. - -The bay abounds with excellent fish; the most esteemed are the _robalo_; -this fish is from two to three feet long, nearly of a cylindrical form, -having angular scales, which are of a gold colour on the back, declining -to a very beautiful transparent white on the belly: it has a bluish -stripe along the back, bordered on each side with a deep yellow; the -flesh is delicately white, and has a delicious taste. The _corbina_ is -generally about the size of the robalo, though sometimes much larger; -its body is of an oval form, covered with broad semi-transparent white -scales, on which are some opaque white spots; it is encircled obliquely -with a number of brownish lines, the tail is forked, and the head small; -its flesh is white and well tasted. The _lisa_ is a kind of mullet; it -is found both in fresh and in salt water; the latter, however, is much -better than the former: it is about a foot long, its back is of a dirty -greenish colour, its sides and belly white, with large scales; its flesh -is white, very fat, and is excellent. The _peje rey_ is very similar to -a smelt, but when full-grown is of the size of a herring; it has not the -same odour as the smelt, but is equally nice when cooked. - -In the vicinity of Talcahuano is the gold fish, about ten inches long, -flat and of an oval form, with small scales; it is of a bright gold -colour, and has five zones or bands surrounding it. One round the neck -is black, two others about the middle of the fish are grey, one near the -tail is black, and the fifth, at the juncture of the tail with the body -is grey; its flesh is very delicate. The _chalgua achagual_, called by -the Spaniards _peje gallo_, cock fish, is about three feet long; its -body is round, rather thicker in the middle than at the neck or near -the tail; it is covered with a whitish skin, but has no scales; on its -head it has a cartilaginous crest about three quarters of an inch -thick--its flesh is not good. The _tollo_, a species of dog-fish, is -about three feet long; it has two triangular dorsal spines, remarkably -hard, but no other bones; it is salted and dried, and sent to the Lima -market, being rarely eaten fresh, although it is then very good. On the -coasts the natives catch a variety of species that are common to other -seas, such as the skate, the dog-fish, saw-fish, old wife, conger eel, -rock cod, whiting, turbot, plaice, bonito, mackerel, roach, mullet, -pilchard, anchovy, &c. - -Among the mollusca tribe the muscle is very fine; I have frequently seen -them eight inches long, and their flavour is excellent. They are often -salted and dried; after which they are strung on slender rushes, and in -this manner large quantities are exported. The white urchin is of a -globular form, about three inches in diameter, with a whitish shell and -spines; the interior substance is yellow, but very good to eat. The -_pico_ is a kind of barnacle, adhering to steep rocks at the water's -edge: from ten to twenty of them inhabit as many separate cells of a -pyramidal form, made of a cretaceous substance, with a little aperture -at the top of each cell; they receive their food at this hole, where a -kind of small bill protrudes, similar to that of a bird, and hence the -animal receives its name of pico, a bill. They are very white, tender, -and most delicate eating. The _loco_ is oval, and its shell is covered -with small tuberosities: it is from four to five inches long, and the -interior or edible substance is white, and very excellent. Of the -molluscas the _piuri_ is the most remarkable, in respect both to its -shape and habitation; the latter is formed of a coriaceous matter, -adhering to the rocks, and which is divided into separate cells, by -means of strong membranes. In each of these, in a detached state, is -formed the piuri; it is about the size of a large cherry, which it so -much resembles in colour, that the following anecdote is related: a -native of Chiloe had never seen any cherries until he came to -Conception, and observing an abundance there he exclaimed, "What a -charming country this is, why the piuries grow on the trees!" This -animal, if it deserve to be so called, is eaten either roasted or -boiled, and has a taste similar to that of the lobster: great quantities -are annually dried for exportation. - -Of the crustaceous fishes, the _xaiva_, crab, has a shell that is nearly -spherical, about three inches in diameter, and two inches deep, -furnished with spines upon the edges. The _apancora_, another of the -crab species, has an oval shell, denticulated, and generally larger than -the xaiva; both are red when boiled, and their flesh is well tasted. -Crawfish, _camarones_, are sometimes caught of the enormous weight of -eight or nine pounds each, and are very good. - -The principal commerce between this port and some of the other Spanish -colonies consists in the exportation of wheat, with which article about -six ships, of not less than four hundred tons burthen each, are annually -laden, making an average of two thousand four hundred tons, which in an -infant country, and for colonial consumption, may be considered very -great. Nearly the whole of this wheat is carried to Lima. Of jerked -beef, charqui, about six thousand quintals, with a proportionate -quantity of tallow and fat, grasa; and of wine, on an average, two -thousand jars, containing eighteen gallons each, are annually exported. -The minor articles are raw hides, wool, dried fruits, salt fish and -pulse. The imports are a small quantity of European manufactured goods, -sugar, salt and tobacco; the taxes on which produce from one hundred and -two to one hundred and five thousand dollars per annum. - -I have already mentioned the benefit which would result from a soap -manufactory being established at Talcahuano; another establishment, -however, of still greater importance, might be formed either on the -banks of the Bio-bio, or on those of the Maule: I mean a sawing mill. -Both of these rivers have a sufficient current for the purpose, and an -abundance of good timber in their vicinity. A dock yard on a trifling -scale has been established and small craft have been built at Maule; but -Guayaquil is the great dock yard on the western coast of South America, -and vessels of eight hundred tons burthen have been built there; beside -which the timber markets of Peru have been almost exclusively supplied -with wood from the forest of Guayaquil: this article is becoming scarce -in that district, and recourse must soon be had to some other parts, and -there are none that present the same facilities as the two I have now -mentioned. The forests of the province of Conception are as yet -untouched; the price of labour there does not exceed one-third of that -at Guayaquil; the hire of cattle for bringing the wood from any part of -the forests to the river side bears the same proportion as the price of -labour; the advantage of superiority of climate is also attached to this -province, as well as that of the total absence of ravenous beasts and -poisonous reptiles, which abound in the woods, rivers and estuaries of -Guayaquil. The conducting of timber to the port of Talcahuano for -embarkation, and its shipment in small vessels in the Maule, are -facilities of considerable importance; to which we may add the short -passage from either of these two places to the principal established -market of Lima, the passage from Guayaquil being of a treble duration. -Small vessels only can get out of the Maule, because a bar at the -entrance of the river would prevent the egress of large ships when -deeply laden. Another powerful reason why sawing mills might be -established with greater ease on those rivers than at Guayaquil is, that -they would increase the means of subsistence among the labouring -classes, and consequently would merit their protection; whereas at the -latter place sawing is the occupation of a great portion of the -inhabitants of the city, who make very high wages, in consequence of -which any establishment detrimental to so numerous a body of artizans -would be strenuously resisted, and probably attended with fatal results. -It will no doubt appear surprizing to persons in England acquainted with -this branch of the arts, that three quarters of a dollar, equal to about -three shillings and two pence, should be paid at Guayaquil for sawing a -plank from a log of wood ten or twelve inches square by eighteen feet -long, the timber not being harder than the English fir. The price for -timber brought down to the port of Talcahuano is very low. _Liñe_, -somewhat resembling ash, and applicable to the same uses, may be -delivered in logs twenty feet long and twelve inches square, for about -one dollar each, and all other kinds of wood at similar rates; while a -single inch plank from the same tree would be worth nearly double the -sum at Lima. Attached to an establishment of this kind, the carrying of -fire wood to Lima would be attended with considerable profit--a cargo of -fire wood weighing fourteen quintals is sold here for only one dollar, -while in Lima it often sells for from one to one and a half dollar per -quintal. - -The ship _Dolores de la Tierra_ being ready to sail for Lima, I was -ordered on board, and obliged to leave with regret an enchanting -country, where I had been treated with unbounded hospitality by its -inhabitants. My kind host, Don Manuel Serrano, took care to recommend me -to the captain, beside which he sent on board, for my use, more -provisions than would have served me for three such voyages. - -The foregoing is a brief description of Conception as I saw it in the -year 1803. I visited it again in 1820, and in the course of my narrative -I shall have occasion to mention it at my second visit, and to contrast -its appearance at those two periods. - -If in my description of this part of South America I have sometimes -touched on the changes that have happened or are likely to happen, it -has been when speaking of places which I did not afterwards visit. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - Leave Talcahuano in the Dolores....Passage to Callao....Arrival - ....Taken to the Castle....Leave Callao....Road to Lima....Conveyed - to Prison. - - -My present situation was very disagreeable. The government of Conception -had placed me on board a Spanish vessel, and had given orders to the -captain to deliver me up, the moment he should arrive at Callao, to the -governor of the fortress. At the same time he had been charged with -letters, containing perhaps an account of my having landed on the -Araucanian coast; of having visited part of that almost unknown -territory, as also part of the province of Conception. Such it was -reasonable to expect would be the information conveyed, if either the -reports prevailing at that time respecting the cruel system of Spanish -jealousy in their colonies were to be credited; or those which have been -more recently circulated, that all foreigners would be incarcerated, -sent to the mines or to places of exile, for having merely dared to -tread the shores of this prohibited country. I should have desponded, -had not practice taught me to regard those reports as exaggerated -tales, the fictions or dreams of the biassed, and not worthy of the -least belief. I was, at the time I landed, ignorant of the existence of -any prohibitory laws; but I now reflected, that no doubt foreigners were -not allowed to settle in a Spanish colony without having obtained those -permissions and passports which are considered equally as indispensable -here as in the British colonies; documents which are as essentially -necessary to Englishmen as to foreigners; but I also recollected the -kind treatment which I had received at Conception, as much a Spanish -colony as the place of my destination; I had learned, too, that -foreigners resided in this part of the country, some of whom were in the -actual employ of the government; it had come to my knowledge that an -Irishman, Don Ambrose Higgins, had filled the offices of Captain-General -of Chile, and of Viceroy of Peru.--These reflections contributed to make -me comparatively happy, and by adhering to a maxim which I had -established, never to allow the shadow of future adversity to cloud the -existence of present comfort, my life was always free from fear and -disquietude. My stay among the pastoral indians of Arauco, for barbarous -I cannot call them, had been one continued scene of enjoyment, -unalloyed with any apprehension of approaching evils, and this conduct -had not contributed a little to make me so welcome a guest. I had -followed the same principles whilst at Conception with equal success. - -The ship in which I embarked had on board eight thousand fanegas of -wheat, with some other Chilean produce, and an abundance of poultry, for -the Lima market; she was built at Ferrol in the year 1632, of Spanish -oak, and was the oldest vessel in the Pacific; her high poop and clumsy -shape forming a great contrast with some of the recently-built ships at -Guayaquil, or those from Spain. The conduct of the captain, the officers -and passengers, was marked with every kindness. I had a small cabin to -myself, but I messed with the captain and passengers, and the eleven -days which we were at sea were spent in mirth and gaiety, not a little -heightened by the female part of a family going to settle in Lima. The -father kindly invited me, should an opportunity present itself, to -reside at his house during my stay in that city, an invitation of which -I should certainly have availed myself had not circumstances prevented -it. We were all anxiety to arrive at Callao, the sea-port of Lima, and -although I had fewer reasons to wish it than others, still the idea of -seeing something new is always pleasing, particularly to a traveller in -a foreign country; besides, I had been informed on my passage that war -had not been declared between England and Spain, and that the conduct of -the government was to be attributed to their wish to prevent any English -spies from residing at liberty in the country. - -On the eleventh day after our leaving Talcahuano we made the island of -San Lorenzo, which forms one side of the bay of Callao. It exhibits a -dreary spectacle, not a tree, a shrub, nor even a blade of grass -presents itself; it is one continued heap of sand and rock. Having -passed the head land, (where a signal post was erected and a look-out -kept, which communicated with Callao, through other signals stationed on -the island) the vessels in the offing, the town and batteries at once -opened on our view. The principal fortress, called the Royal Philip, -_Real Felipe_, has a majestic appearance, although disadvantageously -situated; it is on a level with the sea, and behind it the different -ranges of hills rise in successive gradations until crowned with the -distant prospect of the Andes, which in some parts tower above the -clouds. These clouds, resting on the tops of the lower ranges seemed to -have yielded their places in the atmosphere to those enormous masses, -and to have prostrated themselves at their feet. As we approached the -anchorage the spires and domes of Lima appeared to the left of the town -of Callao. At the moment of landing, which is the most pleasing to -travellers by sea, the passengers were all in high spirits, expecting to -embrace ere long those objects of tender affection, from whom they had -been separated by chance, interest, or necessity. - -Previous to our coming to an anchorage, the custom-house boat with some -others visited our ship, and I was sent ashore in that from the captain -of the port. I was immediately conveyed to the castle, and delivered to -the Governor. On my landing at Callao, I observed a considerable bustle -on what may be called the pier. This pier was made in 1779, during the -Viceroyalty of Don Antonio Amat, by running an old king's ship on shore, -filling her with stones, sand, and rubbish, and afterwards driving round -the parts where the sea washes piles of mangroves, brought from -Guayaquil, and which appear to be almost imperishable in sea water. At -the landing place I saw several boats employed in watering their ships, -for which purpose pipes have been laid down, three feet under ground, to -convey the water from a spring; hoses being attached to the spouts, the -casks are filled either floating on the sea or in the boats. - -The houses make a very sorry appearance; they are generally about twenty -feet high, with mud walls, flat roof, and divided into two stories; the -under one forms a row of small shops open in front, and the upper one an -uncouth corridor. About a quarter of a mile from the landing place is -the draw-bridge, over a dry foss, and an entrance under an arched -gateway to the castle, the Real Felipe. I was presented to the Governor, -a Spanish colonel, who immediately ordered me to the _caloboso_, one of -the prisoners' cells: this was a room about one hundred feet long and -twenty wide, formed of stone, with a vaulted roof of the same materials, -having two wooden benches, raised about three feet from the ground, for -the prisoners to sleep on. A long chain ran along the bench for the -purpose of being passed through the shackles of the unhappy occupants, -whose miserable beds, formed of rush mats, were rolled up, and laid near -the walls. I had an opportunity to make a survey of this place before -the prisoners entered; until then I was left quite alone, pondering over -my future lot, for this was the first time I could consider myself a -prisoner; however, I consoled myself with the hope of release, or if -not, a removal to some more comfortable situation. In this hope I was -not mistaken, for before the prisoners, who were malefactors employed at -the public works, arrived, a soldier came and ordered me to follow him. -He took up my bed, while I took care of my trunk, and in this manner I -left the abode of crime and misery in which I had been placed. I was -conducted to the guard-house, where that part of the garrison on duty -are usually stationed. I now found myself among such a curious mixture -of soldiers as eyes never witnessed in any other part of the world; but -I reconciled myself to my lot, especially as it was not the worst place -in the castle. In a short time I was sent for to the officers' room. I -there found several agreeable and some well-informed young men, with two -very obstinate and testy old ones, who, though of superior rank, were -heartily quizzed by their subalterns. Such is the ease and frankness of -the South Americans in general, that before I had been an hour in the -room, one of the officers, a young lieutenant, and his brother, a cadet, -had become as familiar with me as if we had been old acquaintance. They -were natives of Lima, both had been educated at San Carlos, the -principal college, and both lamented that the most useful branches of -science were not taught in the Spanish colleges to that extent, and -with that precision which they are in England. The lieutenant also -observed, that as the rectors and heads of their colleges were -churchmen, the studies were confined principally to theology, divinity -and morality, which circumstance caused them to neglect the useful -sciences; and this he ascribed as a reason why in those studies the -students made little progress. But, continued he, our libraries are not -destitute of good mathematical and philosophical books, which some of -our young men study, and they are at all times willing to instruct their -friends. I spent the time in a very agreeable chit chat with my new -acquaintance till ten o'clock, when the lieutenant rose and requested me -to wait his return, saying he was going to the governor for _el santo_, -the watchword, and for the orders of the night. He returned in about -half an hour, pulled off his uniform coat, put on a jacket, and then -told me, in the most friendly manner, that the governor had given orders -for my removal to Lima on the following morning; on which he -congratulated me, saying, that as that was a large city I should be more -comfortable, although a prisoner, than at Callao; he also informed me -that, it being the first day of the month, September, 1803, part of the -garrison would be relieved by detachments from the capital, and that he -was included in that number, and would be happy in giving me a seat in -the _valancin_, hackney coach, which he should hire. About twelve -o'clock my bed and trunk were carried to his sleeping room, and I -remained in conversation with him till day broke; we slept about an -hour, and then arose to breakfast, which consisted of a cup of very good -chocolate for each of us, some dry toast, and a glass of water. At -eleven o'clock, the detachment having arrived, we left Callao in a -valancin, which is a kind of carriage, having the body of a coach on two -wheels, drawn by two horses, one in the shafts and the postillion -mounted on the other. - -The city of Callao, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1746 and -swallowed up by the sea, was at a short distance to the southward of the -present town. On a calm day the ruins may yet be seen under water at -that part of the bay called the _mar braba_, rough sea, and on the beach -a sentry is always placed for the purpose of taking charge of any -treasure that may be washed ashore, which not unfrequently happens. By -this terrible convulsion of nature upwards of three thousand people -perished at Callao alone. I afterwards became acquainted with an old -mulatto, called Eugenio, who was one of the three or four who were -saved; he told me that he was sitting on some timber which had been -landed from a ship in the bay, at the time that the great wave of the -sea rolled in and buried the city, and that he was carried, clinging to -the log, near to the chapel, a distance of three miles. - -From Callao to Lima it is six miles, with a good road, for which the -country is indebted to Don Ambrose Higgins; but he unfortunately died, -after being Viceroy three years, leaving this useful work incomplete. -The finished part extends only about two miles from the gateway, at the -entrance to the city, and has a double row of lofty willows on each -side, shading the foot-walk. He also furnished it, at every hundred -yards, with neat stone benches; and at about every mile a large circle -with walls of brick and stone, four feet high, and stone seats are -erected. These circles are formed for carriages to turn in with greater -ease than on the road. On each side of the foot-walk runs a small stream -of water, irrigating the willows in its course, and nourishing -numberless luxuriant weeds and flowers. It was the intention of the -Viceroy to carry the road down to Callao in the same style as it now -exists near the city, but only the carriage road was finished. It has a -parapet of brick raised two feet high on each side, to keep together the -materials of the road. On the right hand side, going from the port, may -be seen the ruins of an indian village, which was built before the -discovery of South America. Some of the old walls are left, formed of -clay, about two feet thick and six feet high, and which perhaps owe -their present existence to the total absence of rain in this country. To -the right is the town of Bellavista, to which parish Callao is attached, -being called its _anexo_. Here is a hospital for seamen and the poorer -class of the inhabitants. Half way between the port and the city stands -a very neatly built chapel, to which is connected a small cloister; it -is dedicated to the Virgin of Mount Carmel, and many visit it to fulfil -some vow or other which they have made at sea to this Madonna, she being -the protectress of seamen. Near the chapel is situated a house at which -are sold good brandy and wine, and it may easily be guessed which -establishment has the most customers! On approaching the city the -quality of the soil appears to be very good; large gardens with -luxuriant vegetables for the market, and fields of lucern and maize are -here cultivated, and close to the city walls there are extensive -orchards of tropical fruit trees, all irrigated with water drawn by -canals from the river Rimac. The gateway is of brick, covered with -stucco, with cornices, mouldings, and pillars of stone: it has three -arches; the centre one for carriages has folding doors, the two lateral -posterns are for foot passengers. - -The mind of a traveller is naturally led to expect to find the inside of -a city correspondent with the appearance of its entrance; but at Lima he -will be deceived. The distant views of the steeples and domes, the -beautiful straight road, its shady avenue of lofty willows, and its -handsome gateway, are contrasted, immediately on passing them, with a -long street of low houses with their porches and patios; small shops -with their goods placed on tables at the doors; no glass windows; no -display of articles of commerce; numbers of people of all colours, from -the black African to the white and rosy coloured Biscayan, with all -their intermediate shades, combined with the mixture of colour and -features of the aborigines of America:--the mere observation of this -variety of colours and features produces a "confusion beyond all -confusions." - -As a prisoner of war, although the two nations were at peace, I was -conducted by my kind friend to the city gaol, _carcel de la ciudad_, -where I remained shut up for eight months with about a hundred criminals -of the worst description. Owing, however, to a recommendation and the -promise of a remuneration from my good friend the lieutenant, the -alcalde lodged me in a room at the entrance of the prison, allotted to -persons of decent families, or to such as had the means of paying for -this convenience. - -I was fortunate enough to find here a native of Lima, an officer in the -army, who was confined on suspicion of forgery. He was a very excellent -man, and conducted himself towards me in a manner which contributed, not -only to my comfort whilst I was a prisoner, but finally to my -liberation. My first object in my confinement was to make myself -perfectly master of the Spanish tongue, and to obtain some knowledge of -_Quichua_, the court language of the Incas, and used wherever their -authority had been established. I was the more desirous of becoming -acquainted with this language, because it is spoken in the interior of -Peru by all classes of people: the respectable inhabitants, however, -also speak Spanish. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - Lima, Origin of its Name....Pachacamac....Foundation of - Lima....Pizarro's Palace....Situation of the City....Form of the - Valley Rimac....River....Climate....Temperature....Moists and - Rain....Soil....Earthquakes....Produce. - - -Lima is the capital of Peru, and derives its name from _Rimac_, which -original name its river still retains; but the valley was called by the -indians _Rimac Malca_, or the place of witches; it being the custom -among the aborigines, even before the establishment of the theocrasia of -the Incas, as well as during their domination, to banish to this valley -those persons who were accused of witchcraft. Its climate is very -different from that of the interior, and having a great deal of marshy -ground in its vicinity, intermittent fevers generally destroyed in a -short time such individuals as were the objects of this superstitious -persecution. It is recorded, that when Manco Capac and his sister Mama -Ocollo were presented by their grandfather to the indians living at -Couzcou, and were informed by him that they were the children of the -sun, their God, the fair complexion of these strangers, and their light -coloured hair, induced the indians to consider them as rimacs, and they -were in consequence exiled to Rimac Malca, the place of witches, now the -valley of Lima. - -In September, 1533, Don Francisco Pizarro arrived at Pachacamac, a large -town belonging to the indians, where a magnificent temple had been built -by Pachacutec, the tenth Inca of Peru, for the worship of Pachacamac, -the creator and preserver of the world. This rich place of worship was -plundered by Pizarro, and the virgins destined to the service of the -Deity, though in every respect as sacred as the nuns of Pizarro's -religion, were violated by his soldiers; the altars were pillaged and -destroyed, and the building was demolished. However, when I visited it -in 1817, some of the walls still remained, as if to reproach the -descendants of an inhuman monster with his wanton barbarity. I wandered -among the remains of this temple, dedicated by a race of men in -gratitude to their omnipotent creator and preserver: a house unstained -with what bigots curse with the name of idolatry; unpolluted with the -blood of sacrifice; uncontaminated with the chaunt of anthems, impiously -sung to the Deity after the destruction of a great number of his -creatures; of prayers for success, or thanksgivings for victory; but -hallowed with the innocent offerings of fruits and flowers, and -sanctified with the incense breath of praise, and hymns of joyous -gratitude. It is difficult to describe the feelings by which we are -affected when we witness the ruins of an edifice destined by its founder -to be a monument of national glory, or even of personal honor; but when -we contemplate with unprejudiced eyes the remains of a building once -sacred to a large portion of our fellow creatures, and raised by them in -honour of the great Father of the universe, wantonly destroyed by a -being, in whose hands chance had placed more power than his vitiated -mind knew how to apply to virtuous purposes--we cannot avoid cursing -him, in the bitterness of our anguish. Cold indeed must be the heart of -that man who could view the ruins of Pachacamac with less regret than -those of Babylon or Jerusalem! - -Pizarro having arrived at Pachacamac, and being desirous of building a -city near the sea coast, he sent some of his officers to search for a -convenient harbour either to the north or to the south. They first -visited the harbour of Chilca, which, though a good one, and near -Pachacamac, was still defective; the coast was a sandy desert, and the -poor indians who lived upon it for the purpose of fishing were often -forced to abandon their houses, because their wells of brackish water -became dry. The commissioners were obliged to look out for another -situation, and having arrived at Callao they found that its bay was very -capacious, with the river Rimac entering it on the north. They -afterwards explored the delightful surrounding valley, and reported -their success to Pizarro, who immediately came from Pachacamac, and -approving of the situation, laid the foundation of Lima, on the south -side of the river, about two leagues from the sea. On the 8th day of -January, 1534, he removed to it those Spaniards whom he had left for the -purpose of building a town at Jauja. Lima is called by the Spaniards La -Ciudad de los Reyes, from being founded on the day on which the Roman -Church celebrates the epiphany, or the feast of the worshipping of the -kings or magi of the east. Its arms are a shield with three crowns, Or, -on an azure field, and the star of the east; for supporters the letters -J. C. Jane and Charles, with the motto--_Hoc signum vere Regum est_. -These arms and the title of royal city were granted to Lima by the -Emperor Charles V. in 1537. Pizarro built a palace for himself, about -two hundred yards from the river, on the contrary side of the great -square, or _plasa mayor_, to that where the palace of the Viceroy now -stands; and the remains of it may yet be found in the _Callejon de -Petateros_, mat maker's alley. He was murdered here on the 26th of June, -1541. - -According to several Spanish authorities Lima is situated in 12° 2´ 51´´ -south latitude, and in 70° 50´ 51´´ longitude west of Cadiz. To the -northward and eastward of the city hills begin to rise, which ultimately -compose a part of the great chain of the Andes; or rather they are parts -of the high mountains which run north and south about twenty leagues to -the eastward of Lima. These mountains gradually descend to the sea -coast, producing between each row beautiful and fertile valleys, of -which the Rimac is one. The chain opening at the back of Lima forms the -valley Lurigancho, which closes on its suburbs. That of the greatest -height, bordering on the city, is called _San Cristobal_, and the other -_Amancaes_; the former is 1302 feet above the level of the sea, and the -latter 2652. The mountains slope towards the west, and when seen from -the bridge appear to have reached the level about three miles from that -station, which extremity, viewed from the same place, is the point where -the sun disappears at the time of the winter solstice. To the south -west is the island called _San Lorenzo_; more to the south lies _Morro -Solar_, about eight miles distant, where large hills of sand are -observed, which, stretching to the eastward and gently rising, form with -the Amancaes a crescent, enclosing the picturesque valley Rimac, through -which the river of that name majestically flows, producing in its course -or wherever its influence can be obtained all the beauties of Flora and -the gifts of Ceres. - -The site of Lima gradually inclines to the westward, the great square, -plasa mayor, being 480 feet above the level of the sea. Thus all the -streets in this direction, with many of those intersecting them at right -angles, have small streams of water running along them, which contribute -very much to the cleanliness and salubrity of the city and its -inhabitants. The water which runs through the streets, as well as that -which feeds the fountains and the canals for the irrigation of gardens, -orchards and plantations, which fill the whole valley, is drawn from the -river Rimac. This river has its origin in the province of Huarochiri, -and receives in its course several small streams, which descend the -mountains, and are produced by the melting of the snow on the tops of -the Andes, as well as by the rains which fall in the interior, at which -time the river swells very much, and covers the whole of its bed, which -at other times is in many places almost dry. The water in Lima is said -to be crude, holding in solution a considerable quantity of selenite, -besides being impregnated with abundance of fixed air; hence, -indigestions and other affections of the stomach are attributed to it; -but Dr. Unanue very justly asks, "may not these diseases be derived from -Cupid and Ceres?" The water is certainly far from being pure; for the -_artaxea_, which supplies the city fountains, and the _pugios_, which -supply the suburbs, called San Lazaro, are stagnant pools; both are -often full of aquatic plants, which decay and rot in them; they moreover -contain water that has been employed in the irrigation of the -plantations and farms at the back of the city, and not unfrequently -animals have been drowned in them. - -The climate of Lima is extremely agreeable; the heat which would -naturally be expected in so low a latitude is seldom felt, and those who -have been accustomed to the scorching sun and suffocating heat of Bahia, -on the opposite side of the Continent, or to those of Carthagena, in the -same latitude, are astonished at the mild and almost equable climate of -Lima. The following thermometrical observations, made in the years 1805 -and 1810, will evince the truth of what has been asserted:-- - - -THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS, - -MADE AT NOON IN THE SHADE OF AN OPEN ROOM AT LIMA. - - 1805. 1810. - ____/\____ ____/\____ - / \ / \ - Max. Min. Max. Min. - January 77 74¾ 76 73¾ - February 79½ 76 77 74¾ - March 78½ 74¾ 77 74¾ - April 74¾ 72 74¾ 71¼ - May 73¾ 67 71¼ 67 - June 65¾ 65 66 64 - July 65 63 64¾ 61 - August 63½ 62¾ 63¾ 61 - September 65 63½ 64¾ 64 - October 65¾ 63½ 65¾ 63½ - November 69½ 65¾ 69½ 65½ - December 73¾ 69½ 71½ 70 - ------ ------ ------ ------ - Mean height during} 79½ 62¾ 77 61 - the Year. } ====== ====== ====== ====== - - -The coolness of the climate is occasioned by -the wind and a peculiar state of the atmosphere. -The wind generally blows from different -points of the compass between the south -west and the south east. When from the -former direction, it crosses in its course a -great portion of the Pacific Ocean, and when -it comes from the eastward it has not to -pass over sandy deserts or scorching plains, -but to traverse first the immense tract of -woodland countries lying between the Brazils -and Peru, and afterwards the frozen tops -of the Cordillera, at a distance of twenty -leagues from Lima; so that, in both cases, it is -equally cool and refreshing. A northerly wind -is very seldom felt in Lima; but when it blows, -as if by accident, from that quarter, the heat -is rather oppressive. On the 6th of March, -1811, the wind being from the north, I made the -following observations with a Farenheit's thermometer, -at one o'clock, p. m. - - - In the shade in an open room 80° - In the air, five yards from the sun's rays 87° - In the sun 106° - Water in the shade from sunrise 74° - Water in a well 20 yards below the} 70° - surface of the earth } - Sea water at Callao at 4 p. m. 64° - Heat of the body, perspiring 96° - ------------------after cooling in the shade 94° - - -The heat of the sun in summer is mitigated by a canopy of clouds, which -constantly hang over Lima, and although not perceptible from the city, -yet when seen from an elevated situation in the mountains, they appear -somewhat like the smoke floating in the atmosphere of large towns where -coal is burnt; but as this material is not used in Lima, the cause and -effect must be different. - -If I may be allowed to give an opinion different from that of several -eminent persons who have written on the climate of Lima, it is, that the -vapours which rise on the coast or from the sea are lifted to a -sufficient height by the action of the sun's rays to be caught by the -current of wind from the southward and westward, and carried by them -into the interior; whilst the exhalations from the city and its suburbs -only rise to a lower region, and are not acted upon by the wind, but -remain in a quiescent state of perfect equilibrium, hanging over the -city during the day, and becoming condensed by the coolness of the -night, when they are precipitated in the form of dew, which is always -observable in the morning on the herbage. - -Lima may be justly said to enjoy one of the most delightful climates in -the world; it is a succession of spring and summer, as free from the -chills of winter as from the sultry heats of autumn. - -Notwithstanding this almost constant equability, some writers have -imagined that four seasons are distinguishable. Such persons, however, -must undoubtedly have either been endowed with peculiar sensibility, or -have been gifted with an amazing philosophy. Not content with the -beauties of this climate, some have attached to it the properties which -belong to the ultra-tropical countries--jealous perhaps of the -theoretical comforts from which they are practically free, and in the -full enjoyment of a climate the maximum heat of which seldom exceeds 78° -of Farenheit's thermometer, and the minimum of which is seldom below -62°, wishing to perfect it by having the maximum at 100°, and the -minimum below zero! Peralta, in his 8th canto, has very quaintly -described the beautiful climate of this city:-- - - - "En su orisonte el sol todo es aurora - Eterna, el tiempo todo es primavera - Solo es risa del cielo cada hora - Cada mes solo es cuenta del esfera. - Son cada aliento, un halito de Flora - Cada arroyo una Musa lisongera; - Y los vergeles, que el confin le debé - Nubes fragantes con que el ciclo llueve." - - -One of the peculiarities of this climate, as well as that of the coast -of Peru from Arica to Cape Blanco, being a distance of about 16 degrees -of latitude, is, that it can scarcely ever be said to rain. Several -theories have been advanced to account for this anomaly of nature. The -following facts and explanations will, perhaps, tend to unravel the -difficulty. - -In April or May the mists, called _garuas_, begin, and continue with -little interruption till November, which period is usually termed the -winter solstice. The gentle winds that blow in the morning from the -westward, and in the afternoon from the southward, are those which fill -the atmosphere with aqueous vapours, forming a very dense cloud or mist; -and owing to the obliquity of the rays of the sun during this season the -evaporation is not sufficiently rarified or attenuated to enable it to -rise above the summits of the adjacent mountains; so that it is limited -to the range of flat country lying between the mountains and the sea, -which inclines towards the north west. Thus the vapours brought by the -general winds are collected over this range of coast, and from the cause -above-mentioned cannot pass the tops of the mountains, but remain -stationary until the sun returns to the south, when they are elevated by -his vertical heat, and pass over the mountains into the interior, where -they become condensed, and fall in copious rains. That rain is not -formed on the coast from these mists is attributable, first, to a want -of contrary winds to agitate and unite the particles, and, secondly, to -their proximity to the earth, which they reach in their descent, before -a sufficient number of them can coalesce, and form themselves into -drops. - -The figure of the coast also contributes to the free access of the water -that has been cooled at the south pole, on its return to the equatorial -regions. From Cape Pilares to latitude 18° the direction of the coast is -nearly N. and S.; and from 18° to 5° it runs out to the westward: thus -the cold water dashes on the shores, and produces in the atmosphere a -coolness that is not experienced in other parts, where the coasts are -filled with projecting capes and deep bays; because the current, -striking against those, sweeps from the coast, and the water in these -becomes heated by the sun, and is deprived by the capes of the current -of cold water, excepting what is necessary to maintain the equilibrium, -which is diminished by absorption in the bays. The heat increases with -astonishing rapidity from latitude 1° south to 10° north; the Gulph of -Choco being deprived of the ingress of cooled water from the south by -the Cape San Francisco, and from the north by Cape Blanco. The eastern -shores of the south Continent of America are much warmer than the -western, owing to the great number of capes and bays. The atmosphere -does not enjoy the cooling breezes from the pole, which are diverted -from a direct course in the same manner as the currents of water, nor -the refrigerated winds from the Cordillera. - -The southern hemisphere is altogether much cooler than the northern: -perhaps in the same ratio that the surface land of the northern -hemisphere exceeds that of the southern. - -During the months of February and March it sometimes happens that large -straggling drops of rain fall about five o'clock in the afternoon. This -admits of an easy elucidation. The exhalations from the sea being -elevated by the heat of a vertical sun, and impelled by the gentle winds -during the day towards the interior and mountainous parts of the -country, are sometimes arrested in their progress by a current of air -from the eastward, which, having been cooled on its passage over the -snow-topped Andes, is colder than the air from the westward; and -wherever these currents meet the aqueous particles are condensed, and -uniting become too heavy to continue in the upper region of the -atmosphere, when they begin to fall, and in their descent combine with -those that fill the lower regions, and hence some large drops are -formed. - -The following table of the weather will perhaps furnish a better idea of -the climate of Lima than any verbal description:-- - - - 1805. 1810. - --------------------------------------- -------------------------- - Sun. Cloudy. Variable. Sun. Cloudy. Variable. - Jan. 5 days 10 days 16 days 6 days 11 days 13 days. - Feb. 8 5 15 7 4 17 - March 12 2 17 13 2 16 - April 7 9 14 6 10 14 - May .. 17 14 1 15 15 - June .. 21 9 .. 24 6 - July .. 28 3 .. 31 .. - August .. 27 4 .. 30 1 - Sept. 3 20 7 2 21 7 - October 2 21 8 2 19 10 - Nov. 4 16 10 5 15 10 - Dec. 4 18 19 4 7 20 - ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- - During the } 45 184 136 46 189 129 - year.... } - ==== ==== ==== ==== ==== ==== - - - _Sun_ indicates those days in which the sun was never clouded; - _Cloudy_, those in which the sun was not visible; and _Variable_, - those in which the sun was generally clouded in the morning but - afterwards became visible. - - -From the foregoing explanations it must naturally be inferred, that the -dry season in the interior occurs at the time that the mists or fogs -predominate on the coast, and vice versa: this is what really takes -place. The rivers on the coast are nearly dry during the misty weather, -but during the summer heat they often become impassable, owing to their -increase of water from the melting of the snow on the mountains and the -fall of rain in the interior. The _chimbadores_, or _badeadores_, men -who ford the larger rivers with goods and travellers, know from -experience and minute observation, according to the hour at which the -increase begins, at what place the rain has fallen. - -It may be well here to advert to a phenomenon which has as yet remained -unnoticed. The heavy rains which fall on the Cordillera of the Andes are -the effect of evaporation from the Pacific Ocean, and these rains feed -the enormous streams which supply those rivers that empty themselves -into the Atlantic. It therefore follows, that the Atlantic is furnished -with water from the Pacific; and if, as some have believed, the -Atlantida existed between the coasts of Africa and America, its western -shores being opposite to the mouth of the river Amazon, its inundation -may have been occasioned by the heavy rains in the Andes. - -The vegetable mould in the valley of Lima is about two feet deep, and -is extremely rich, amply repaying the labour of cultivation. Below the -mould is a stratum of sand and pebbles, extending about three leagues -from the sea-coast; and under this a stratum of indurated clay, -apparently of alluvial depositions. The latter seems to have been once -the bottom of the sea, and may have been raised above the level of the -surface by some great convulsion; for I cannot suppose with Moreno, -Unanue and others, that the water has retired from this coast so much as -to occasion a fall of more than four hundred feet in perpendicular -height, which the stratum of sand and pebbles holds above the level of -the sea at its extreme distance from the coast. - -May not the same principles account for the general belief, that the -surface of the Atlantic on the eastern shores of the New World is above -the level of the Pacific on the western shores, notwithstanding the -apparent contradiction of the currents running round Cape Horn into the -Atlantic? Perhaps the asserted elevation, particularly in the Gulph of -Mexico, is owing to the prevailing winds that drive the surface water -into the gulf, its free egress by a sub-current being impeded by the -range of the Antilles, whose bases may occupy a greater space than -their surfaces, and also to the existence of rocks under water. - -Although Lima is free from the terrifying effects of thunder and -lightning, it is subject to dreadful convulsions which are far more -frightful and destructive. Earthquakes are felt every year, particularly -after the mists disperse and the summer sun begins to heat the earth. -They are more commonly felt at night, two or three hours after sunset, -or in the morning about sunrise. The direction which they have been -observed to keep has generally been from south to north, and experience -has shewn, that from the equator to the Tropic of Capricorn the most -violent concussions have taken place about once in every fifty years. -Since the conquest the following, which occurred at Arequipa, Lima and -Quito, have been the most violent:-- - - - AREQUIPA. LIMA. QUITO. - - 1582 1586 1587 - 1604 1630 1645 - 1687 1687 1698 - 1715 1746 1757 - 1784 1806 1797 - 1819 - - -It has been remarked, that the vegetable world suffers very much by a -great shock, the country about Lima, and all the range of coast were -particularly affected by that which happened in 1678. The crops of -wheat, maize, and other grain were entirely destroyed, and for several -years afterwards the ground was totally unproductive. At that period -wheat was first brought from Chile, which country has ever since been -considered the granary of Lima, Guayaquil, and Panama. Feijo, in his -description of the province of Truxillo, says, "that some of the valleys -which produced two hundred fold of wheat before the earthquake in 1687 -did not reproduce the seed after it for more than twenty years;" and -according to the latest information from Chile the crops have failed -since the earthquake in 1822. The following shocks were felt in Lima in -the years 1805 and 1810:-- - - - 1805. 1810. - ______/\______ _________/\__________ - / \ / \ - January 9, at 7½ P. M. January 7, at 9 A. M. - ... 10, ... 5 A. M. ... 11, ... 5 P. M. - ... 27, ... 9 P. M. May 3, ... 7½ A. M. - February 17, ... 6 P. M. ... 15, ... 5 A. M. - ... 21, ... 4½ P. M. ... 16, ... 7 P. M. - March 1, ... 5 A. M. June 15, ... 5½ A. M. - June 4, ... 4½ P. M. Nov. 17, ... 5 A. M. - July 1, ... 5 A. M. ... 21, ... 7½ A. M. - Nov. 7, ... 8 P. M. ... 24, ... 5 P. M. - ... 9, ... 8½ P. M. ... 26, ... 5½ P. M. - Dec. 5, ... 7½ P. M. - ... 14, ... 4½ P. M. - - -When one or two faint shocks are felt in the moist weather, they are -supposed to indicate a change, and the same is expected in the dry or -hot weather. - -The principal produce of the valley of Lima is sugar cane, lucern, -_alfalfa_, maize, wheat, beans, with tropical and European fruit, as -well as culinary vegetables. - -The sugar cane is almost exclusively of the creole kind: fine sugar is -seldom made from it here, but a coarse sort, called _chancaca_, is -extracted, the method of manufacturing which will hereafter be -described. The principal part of the cane is employed in making -_guarapo_; this is the expressed juice of the cane fermented, and -constitutes the chief drink of the coloured people; it is intoxicating, -and from its cheapness its effects are often visible, particularly among -the indians who come from the interior, and can purchase this disgusting -vice at a low rate. The liquor is believed to produce cutaneous -eruptions if used by the white people, on which account, or more -probably from the vulgarity implied in drinking it, they seldom taste -it. I found it very agreeable, and when thirsty or over-heated preferred -it to any other beverage. - -The manufacture of rum was expressly forbidden in Peru both by the -Monarch and the Pope; the former ordained very heavy penalties to be -inflicted, the latter fulminated his anathemas on those who should -violate the royal will. The whole of this strange colonial restriction -had for its object the protection and exclusive privilege of the owners -of vineyards in the making of spirits--a protection which cost the -proprietors upwards of sixty thousand dollars. - -Great quantities of lucern, alfalfa, are cultivated, for the purpose of -supplying with provender the horses and mules of Lima; and not less than -twelve hundred asses are kept for the purpose of bringing it from the -_chacras_, small farms in the valley. It generally grows to the height -of three feet, and is cut down five times in the year; it prospers -extremely well during the moist weather, but there is a great scarcity -in the summer or hot season, because it cannot then be irrigated, for it -has been observed, that if, after cutting, the roots are watered they -rot; on this account fodder is not plentiful in summer, so that if a -substitute for the lucern could be introduced it would prove a source of -great wealth to its cultivator. I never saw dried lucern, and on -inquiring why they did not dry and preserve it, was told, that the -experiment had been tried, but that the green lucern when dried became -so parched and tasteless that the horses would not eat it, and that the -principal stems of the full-grown or ripe lucern very often contain a -snuff-like powder, which is very injurious to the animals, producing a -kind of madness, and frequently killing them. Fat cattle brought to Lima -are generally kept a few days on lucern before they are slaughtered; the -farmers are therefore very attentive to the cultivation of this useful -and productive plant. Guinea grass was planted near the city by Don -Pedro Abadia, but it did not prosper; whether the failure were -occasioned by the climate, or by ignorance of management, I cannot say, -but I am inclined to believe that the latter was the case. - -Wheat is sown, but no reliance can be placed on a produce adequate to -repay the farmer, although the quality in favourable seasons is very -good. It often happens, that the vertical sun has great power before the -grain is formed, at which time the small dew drops having arranged -themselves on different parts of the ear into minute globules, these are -forcibly acted on by the sun's rays before evaporation takes place, and -operating as so many convex lenses, the grain is burnt, and the -disappointed farmer finds nothing but a deep brown powder in its place. -I have sometimes seen a field of wheat or other grain most luxuriantly -green in the evening, and the day following it has been parched and dry; -this transition the farmer says is the effect of frost; which will -perhaps be admitted to be a correct explanation, if we consider that -during the night the wind has come from the eastward, and has passed -over a range of the Andes at a short distance. It sometimes also happens -that the moist season continues for a long period, or that after clear -weather the mists return; now should the farmer irrigate his fields -during this intermission, or should the mists continue, the plants shoot -up to such a great height that straw alone is harvested; but in this -case, aware of the result, he often cuts the green corn for fodder, or -turns his cattle on it to feed. - -The growth of maize is much attended to, and very large quantities are -annually consumed in Lima by the lower classes, and as food for hogs, -some of which animals become extremely fat with this grain, and in less -time than if fed on any other kind. Three sorts of maize are cultivated -here, each of which has its peculiar properties and uses. It appears to -have been in very extensive use among the indians before the arrival of -the Spaniards; for, on digging the _huacas_, or burying grounds, at the -distance of forty leagues from Lima, I have often found great quantities -of it. A large deposit was discovered in square pits or cisterns, made -of sun-dried bricks, on a farm called Vinto, where no doubt there had -either been a public granary, or, as some people imagine, a depôt formed -by Huaina Capac, on leading his troops against the Chimu, a king of the -coasts, about the year 1420. The grain was quite entire when it was -taken up, although, according to the above hypothesis, it had been under -ground about four hundred years; owing its preservation perhaps to the -dry sand in which it was buried. Its depth beneath the surface was about -four feet, on the ridge of a range of sand hills, where no moisture -could reach it by absorption from below, its elevation being about 700 -feet above the level of the sea, and 600 above that of the nearest -river. I planted some of it, but it did not grow: however its fattening -qualities were not destroyed, and the neighbouring farmers and -inhabitants of the adjacent villages profited by the discovery. - -Large quantities of beans are harvested in this valley for the support -of the slaves on the estates and plantations, but the market of Lima is -principally supplied from _valles_, the valleys on the coast to the -northward. - -Although abundance of tropical and ultra-tropical fruit trees are -cultivated in the gardens and orchards belonging to the farm houses, and -_quintas_, seats, in the valley, I shall defer an account of them until -I describe the gardens in and about the city. - -Culinary vegetables are grown here in abundance, including a great part -of those known in Europe, as well as those peculiar to warm climates. -The _yuca_, casava, merits particular attention, on account of its -prolific produce, delicate taste, and nutritious qualities; it grows to -about five feet high; its leaves are divided into seven finger-like -lobes of a beautiful green, and each plant will generally yield about -eight roots of the size of large carrots, of a white colour, under a -kind of rough barky husk. In a raw state its taste is somewhat similar -to that of the chesnut, and of a very agreeable flavour when roasted or -boiled; the young buds and leaves are also cooked, and are as good as -spinage. It is propagated by planting the stalks or stems of the old -crop, cutting them close to the ground after about four inches are -buried in the mould, which must be light and rather sandy. Two species -are known; the crop of the one arrives at full growth in three months, -but this is not considered of so good a quality, nor is it so productive -as the other, which is six months before it arrives at a state of -perfection. They are distinguished by the yellowish colour of the -latter, and the perfectly white colour of the former. The disadvantage -attending these roots, is, that they cannot be kept above four or five -days before they become very black, when they are considered unfit for -use. Starch is made from them in considerable quantities, by the usual -method of bruising, and subjecting them to fermentation, in order to -separate the farina. The mandioc, a variety of this genus, is unknown on -the western side of the Continent: thus all danger of injury from its -poisonous qualities is precluded. - -Several varieties of the potatoe are cultivated and yield very abundant -crops. They appear to have been known in this part of the New World -before it was visited by the Spaniards, and not to have been confined to -Chile, their native country. I found this probability on their having a -proper name in the Quichua language, whilst those plants that have been -brought into the country retain among the Indians their Spanish names -alone. - -_Camotes_, commonly called sweet potatoes, and by the Spaniards -_batatas_, are produced in great abundance, of both the yellow and -purple kinds. I have seen them weighing ten pounds each; when roasted or -boiled their taste is sweeter than that of the chesnut, and all classes -of people eat them. They become much more farinaceous if exposed for -some time to the sun after they are taken out of the ground; and if kept -dry they will remain good for six months. They are propagated by setting -pieces of the branches of old plants, to procure which the camote itself -is sometimes planted. - -Although the _arracacha_ which is grown in this valley is neither so -large nor so well tasted as that which is produced in a cooler climate, -it is nevertheless an exceedingly good esculent. It is cultivated in a -rich, loose soil, and has generally five or six roots, something like -parsnips, but of a different flavour; they are not very mealy, and -require but little cooking; they are, however, very easy of digestion, -on which account they are given to the sick and convalescent; the leaves -bear a great resemblance to those of celery. The plantation is either -from cuttings of the root, like potatoes, or from the seed; in the first -case the roots are full grown in three months, but in the latter in not -less than five. If allowed to remain in the ground double the time -mentioned the roots continue to increase in size, without any detriment -to their taste. Starch is sometimes made from the roots, and used in the -same manner as the arrow root is in other countries. Only the white -arracacha is here cultivated. The arracacha deserves the attention of -Europeans; it would, I am pretty certain, prosper in England, because -its natural temperature, where it thrives best, is in about 60° of -Fahrenheit. - -The _tomate_, love apple, is very much cultivated, and is in frequent -use both in the kitchen and for confectionary, and produces a very -agreeable acid. - -Capsicum, cayenne pepper, _aji_, is abundant; I have counted nine -different sorts, the largest, _rocotos_, about the size of a turkey's -egg, and the smallest, which is the most pungent, not thicker than the -quill of a pigeon's feather; the quantity of this spice used in America -is enormous; I have frequently seen a person, particularly among the -indians, eat as a relish, twenty or thirty pods, with a little salt and -a piece of bread. One kind called _pimiento dulce_ is made into a very -delicate salad, by roasting the pods over hot embers, taking away the -outer skin, and the seeds from the inside, and seasoning with salt, oil, -and vinegar. - -It is rather a surprising fact, that manure is never used on the farms -or plantations. The astonishing fertility of the soil, which has been -under cultivation for upwards of three hundred years, and produced -luxuriant annual crops, appears to be supported by the turbid water from -the mountains, during the rainy season, with which it is irrigated. This -water, like that of the Nile, leaves on the ground a slimy film, which -is said to contain a considerable quantity of animal matter. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - Viceroys and Archbishops of Lima....Viceroyalty, - Extent....Viceroy's Titles and Privileges....Royal - Audience....Cabildo....Forms of Law....Military.... - Religion....Inquisition....Sessions and Processes....Archbishop.... - Royal Patronage....Ecclesiastical Tribunals....Chapter, _Cabildo - Ecclesiastico_....Curates....Asylum of Immunity....Minor - Tribunals...._Consulado_....Crusade....Treasury, - Accompts...._Temporalidades_, _Protomedicato_. - - -Lima is the metropolitan, and the richest city of South America. Under -the Spanish regime it has been the residence of forty-three Viceroys, -counting from Don Francisco Pizarro to the present Don Jose de la Serna, -who abandoned the capital in 1821, when the patriot army entered. It -also enumerates nineteen archbishops, from Don Fray Geronimo de Loaisa, -who arrived in 1540, to Don Bartolome Maria de las Heras, who was -compelled by General San Martin to retire in 1821. - -In the list of Viceroys we find four grandees of Spain, two titled -princes, one archbishop, one bishop, and three licentiates; the rest -were military officers, but none of them Americans. Among the -archbishops is Saint Thoribio de Mogroviejo, who was presented in 1578, -and in the exercise of his ecclesiastical duties was so unremitting, -that he visited his extensive diocese three times, and confirmed upwards -of a million of persons, one of whom was Saint Rose of Lima. He died in -1606, and was canonized by Benedict XIII. in 1727. - -The Viceroyalty of Peru formerly extended from the south confines of -Mexico to those of Chile, including all the Spanish possessions in South -America, and what the Spaniards call meridional America. The Viceroyalty -of Santa Fe de Bogotá was separated from Peru, and established in 1718; -that of Buenos Ayres in 1777. - -The titles of the Viceroy of Peru were His Excellency Don ----, Viceroy -and Captain-general of Peru, President of the Royal Audience, -Superintendent Subdelegate of the Royal Finances, Posts and -Temporalities, Director-general of the Mining Tribunal, Governor of -Callao, Royal Vice-patron, &c. - -As Viceroy he was the immediate representative of the King, and -answerable to him alone as President of the Council of Indies, _Consejo -de Indias_: to which tribunal all complaints and appeals were directed, -as well as the residential reports. Petitions of every description were -presented directed or addressed to him, for the despatch of which he was -assisted by a legal adviser, called _asesor general_, whose written -report was generally confirmed by the sub-signature of the Viceroy, but -from these there was an appeal to the Royal Audience. It has been the -custom of the Viceroys to appoint an hour in the morning, and another in -the afternoon, for receiving personally from the hands of the -petitioners papers addressed to them; but the secretary's office was -always open for such documents. - -In his quality of Captain-general he was charged with all political -affairs, those relating to fortification, and the defence of the country -by land and sea, for which purpose the whole of the military and naval -departments were subject to his immediate orders; but in cases of -emergency he usually called a _junta de guerra_, council of war. All -courts martial were held by his orders, and their sentences required his -confirmation before they were put in execution, but if he chose he could -refer the whole to the revision of the _consejo de guerra permanente_, -in Spain. - -In the capacity of President of the Royal Audience the Viceroy assisted -at the sittings whenever he pleased, and entered at any hour which he -thought proper during a session. When he proposed to assist in state, he -announced his intention, and a deputation of the judges attended him -from his palace to the hall; on his arrival at the door the porter -called aloud, the president! when all the attorneys, advocates and -others met and conducted him to his chair; the judges continued standing -until he was seated and nodded permission for them to resume their -seats. The session being finished, all the members of the audience, -regent, judges, _oidores_, and fiscal, accompanied him to the door of -his apartment in the palace, the regent walking on his left, and the -other members preceding him two and two. The presidency of the audience -was merely honorary, as the president had neither a deliberative nor a -consulting voice, but all sentences of the tribunal must have had his -signature, which may be called the _veto_, before they could be put in -execution. On the arrival of any new laws, royal ordinances, or -schedules, the Viceroy was summoned by the tribunal to the hall of -accords, _sala de acuerda_, where they were presented to him, and the -ceremony of obedience to them performed by his kissing the King's -signature and then laying the paper on his head, which act was recorded -by the _escribano de camara_. - -The Viceroy, as President of the Royal Audience made a private report -annually to the King, through the Council of Indies, of the public and -even of the private characters of the members of the tribunal. He could -also direct secret inquiries respecting any member whose conduct might -have excited suspicion. - -All presidents of audiences, as well as the members, were forbidden to -marry within the boundaries of their jurisdiction without the express -permission of the King; they were likewise prohibited all commercial -concerns, possession of personal property, becoming godfathers to -infants, and even visiting any private family. The Marquis of Aviles, -Viceroy of Lima, was, before his appointment, married to a native of -Lima, but he was never known to visit any of her relatives; however, -Abascal, Marquis de la Concordia, judging it to be a prudent and -conciliatory measure to break through this restriction during the -unquiet times of his government, visited different families, and -attended at several public feasts, giving others in return. - -At the expiration of five years, the term for which viceroys, governors, -&c. were appointed, and on the arrival of a successor, a commissioner, -generally a judge, was nominated by the King, to take what was termed -_la residencia_. Six months were allowed for all persons who considered -themselves aggrieved to lay before this commissioner a full statement of -their case, and at the termination of the six months the whole of the -papers which had been presented were forwarded to the Council of Indies -for the inspection of that tribunal. - -As Superintendent Subdelegate merely placed the Viceroy above all the -tribunals, he had no other authority over them, except, indeed, the -nomination of the higher officers, who had afterwards to obtain a -confirmation from the King; or of confirming the lower officers -nominated by their superior ones. It may be considered an honorary -distinction, except that of royal financier, as such he presided -quarterly at the general passing of accounts and inspection of -treasures. - -As Royal Vice-patron all collated benefices required his confirmation. -The Archbishop proposed to him three individuals, and it generally -happened that the first on the list received the confirmation; but this -was optional in the Vice-patron, who could confirm any one of those whom -he chose. This prerogative was often the cause of serious disputes -between the Viceroy and the Archbishop. As Governor-general of Callao, -he visited its fortifications twice a year, for which he had an -additional sum of five hundred dollars for each visit. His whole salary -amounted to sixty-one thousand dollars. - -The Royal Audience of Lima was established in 1541, and composed of a -President, Regent, eight Oidores or Members, two Fiscals, (one civil, -the other criminal) _Relatores_, Reporters, _Escribanos_, Scriveners or -Recorders, Porters, and an _Alguacil Mayor_, also two _Alcaldes de -Corte_. The official costume of the regent and members was a black under -dress with white laced cuffs over those of the coat, a black robe or -cloak with a cape about three quarters of a yard square, generally of -velvet, called the toga; and a collar or ruff having two corners in -front; this was black and covered with white lace or cambric: a small -trencher cap, carried in their hands, completed their costume. When -divested of their robes they bore a gold-headed cane or walking-stick -with large black silk tassels and cord, which was the insignia of a -magistrate, or of any one in command, and called the _baton_. - -The sessions of the audience were held every day, excepting holidays, -from nine o'clock in the morning till twelve; and here all cases both -civil and criminal were tried, either by the whole of the members or by -committees, and there was no appeal, except in some few cases, to the -Consejo de Indias. The audience was a court of appeal from any other -authority, even from the ecclesiastical courts, by a _recurso de -fuersa_; but all its sentences required the signature of the Viceroy or -President; for the obtaining of which, an escribano de camara waited on -his excellency every day with all those papers that had received the -signatures of the audience and required to be signed by him. Papers -addressed to the audience were headed with _mui poderoso señor_, most -potent lord; and the title of the members in session was highness, -_altesa_, individually that of lordship, _senoria_. - -The Cabildo of Lima had two _Alcaldes Ordinarios_, twelve _Regidores_, a -_Sindico Procurador_, a Secretary, an _Alguacil Mayor_ and a legal -Advisor called the _Asesor_. The Cabildo appointed out of its own -members a Justice of Police, _Jues de Policia_; a _Jues de Aguas_, who -decided in all questions respecting the water-works belonging to the -city and suburbs; also a _Fiel Egecutor_, for examining weights and -measures. The Royal Ensign, _Alferes Real_ was another member _de -oficio_, appointed by the King, who held in his possession the royal -standard, (the same that was brought by Pizarro) which was carried by -the alferes real, accompanied by the Viceroy, a deputation from the -audience, another from the Cabildo, including the two alcaldes, and -others from the different corporate bodies, in solemn procession -through some of the principal streets of the city, on the 8th of -January, being the anniversary of the foundation of Lima. The title of -alferes real was hereditary in the family of the Count of Monte Mar, y -Monte Blanco. - -The Viceroy was President of the Cabildo. The alcaldes had cognizance in -all causes cognizable by governors; their sentences had the same force, -and were carried by appeal to the audience. - -The forms of law in the Spanish tribunals were very complicated, tedious -and expensive. The escribano wrote down all declarations, accusations, -and confessions, and the courts decided on the merits of the case -according to what was read to them by the _relator_ from the writings -presented; the client, if in prison, not being admitted to hear his own -cause. The tribunals, or judges very reluctantly deprived a man of his -life, but they had no regard to his personal liberty; even a supposition -of criminality was sufficient to incarcerate an individual, perhaps for -years, during which he had not the power to prove himself innocent. From -the facility of imprisonment it was not considered a disgrace, and a -prisoner often received visits from his friends in a jail, which he -returned as a matter of politeness when liberated. I saw prisoners here -who had been incarcerated for twenty years, some for murder; their -causes were not then and probably never would be finished till death -stepped in. - -The Viceroy visited all the prisons on the Friday before Easter, and two -days before Christmas, when he discharged some persons who were confined -for petty crimes. A surgeon and one of the _alcaldes_ visited the -prisons every day, which visits produced much good; the alcalde _de -corte_ examined their food two or three times a week, and attended to -any complaints respecting the internal arrangements made by the -_alcaide_, jailor. - -Of the military, not only those who were in actual service, but the -militia, and persons who had held military rank, and had retired, were -tried by their particular laws, or court martials. This exemption was -called _fuero_, but its enjoyment was not equally extended. The private, -the corporal, and the serjeant might be tried, condemned and executed, -but the sentence of an officer required the confirmation of the -Captain-general, and in some cases the approbation of the King. - -The Roman Catholic religion was established here in the same manner as -in all the Spanish dominions, all sectaries being excluded. The -inexorable tribunal for the protection of the former, and for the -persecution of the latter, held its sessions in Lima, and was one of the -three instituted in South America, the other two being at Mexico and -Carthagena. - -Much has been written at different times respecting this _Tribunal de la -Fe_, tribunal of faith, and much more has been said about it, in -opposition to the old Spanish adage, _de Rey e Inquisicion--chiton_, of -the King and the Inquisition--not a word. The primitive institution was -entirely confined to adjudge matters strictly heretical, but it soon -assumed cognizance of civil and political affairs, becoming at the same -time the stay of the altar, and the prop of the throne. - -All the sessions of the Inquisition being inaccessible, and the persons -tried, consulted, or called in as evidence having been sworn to keep -secret every thing which they should hear, see, or say, has, in a great -measure, deprived the public of any knowledge respecting what transpired -in its mysterious proceedings. - -This tribunal could condemn to fine, confiscation, banishment, or the -flames. Since its erection in 1570, not fewer than forty individuals -have been sentenced to the latter punishment, from which one hundred and -twenty have escaped by recantation. The last who suffered was a female -of the name of Castro, a native of Toledo, in Spain. She was burnt in -the year 1761. Formerly the portraits of those unfortunate individuals -who had been burnt were hung up, with the names annexed, in the passage -leading from the cathedral to the Sagrario, where also the names of -those who had recanted were exposed, having a large red cross on the -pannel, but no portrait. In the year 1812, as one of the results of the -promulgation of the constitution, this revolting exhibition was removed. - -The tribunal was composed of three Inquisitors and two secretaries, -called of despatch and of secret, _del despacho y del secreto_; -_alguasiles_, or bailiffs, porters, brothers of punishment, being lay -brothers of the order of Dominicans, whose duty it was to attend when -requested, and to inflict corporal punishment on the unhappy victims of -persecution. There were also brothers of charity, of the Hospitallery -order of Saint Juan de Dios, to whom the care of the sick was confided; -and both were sworn not to divulge what they had done or seen. Besides -these, a great number of commissaries were appointed by the inquisitors, -in the principal towns within their jurisdiction, for the purpose of -furnishing them with information on every matter denounced; also of -forwarding accusations, processes, and persons accused, to the -tribunal. Qualifiers were elected, whose duty it was to spy out whatever -might appear to them offensive to religion, in books, prints or images; -they likewise reported to the tribunal their opinion of new -publications. These were wretches worse than slander, for not even the -secrets of the grave could escape them! - -All books, before they were offered for sale, must have had a permit -from the Inquisition; and if they were contained in the published list -of prohibited works, the possessor was obliged to go to a _calificador_, -qualifier, and deliver them to him; and should a person have known that -another had such books in his possession, it was his duty to denounce -the individual, whose house, through this circumstance, was subject to a -visit from those holy men. When such books were found, the owner became -amenable to any punishment which these arbitrary priests might think -proper to inflict. The punishment was generally a fine, which was of the -greatest utility to the judges, because all the salaries were paid out -of fines and confiscations, and a stipend arising from a canonry in each -cathedral within their jurisdiction. It was often said by the people, -that some books were prohibited because they were bad; others were bad, -because they were prohibited. - -The inquisitors were secular priests, and distinguished from the others -by wearing a pale blue silk cuff, buttoned over that of the coat. They -were addressed as lords spiritual, and when speaking, although -individually, used the plural pronoun _we_. - -The inquisitorial power was never exercised over the Indians or negroes, -who were considered in the class of neophytes; but every other -individual, including the viceroy, archbishop, judges, prebends, &c. was -subject to its almost omnipotent authority. - -Lima was the see of a bishop from 1539 to 1541, when it was created an -archbishopric by Paul IV., being a suffragan to the mitre of Seville -till the year 1571. It was afterwards erected into a metropolitan, and -has for suffragans the bishops of - - - Panamá erected in 1533 - Cuzco " 1534 - Quito " 1545 - Santiago de Chile " 1561 - Conception de Chile " 1564 - Truxillo " 1577 - Guamanga " 1611 - Arequipa " 1611 - Cuenca " 1786 - Maynas " 1806 - - -The two bulls of Alexander VI. of 1493 and 1501 gave to Ferdinand and -Isabella the entire possession of those countries discovered, and that -might from time to time be discovered by them and their successors, in -America; and the pope, being _infallible_ in his decrees, these bulls -deprived the see of Rome of all direct influence in the Spanish -colonies, and gave to the Kings of Spain the right of repulsing any -jurisdiction which the popes might attempt to exercise there. Thus any -decree, mandate, bull, or commission from the pope required the sanction -of royal approbation before it was valid in this country; and even for -the prevention of what were termed reserved cases, the Kings took care -to obtain extensive privileges for the archbishops and bishops. All -briefs, bulls, dispensations, indulgences, and other pontifical acts -were sent from Rome to the King; and the Council of Indies had the -exclusive examination, admission or rejection of them, as they might -consider them advantageous or injurious to the royal prerogative in the -colonies. - -The right of patronage belonged exclusively to the King; he had the -presentation to all archbishoprics and bishoprics, and every other -office even to the lowest was filled by the royal will. The presentation -to vicarages, curacies, chaplainries, &c. was delegated to the Viceroy, -as Vice-patron; and if any dispute should arise respecting the due -exercise of this delegated authority, it was carried before the Council -of Indies, which was authorized to regulate any such controversies. This -entirely deprived the pope of all interfering power; indeed he enjoyed -no other right than that of granting bulls, briefs, &c. when they were -requested, and of deciding in cases of conscience, when they were -submitted to him by the Council of Indies. - -All bishops and other beneficed priests rendered to the King, as patron, -the entire rent of their benefice for one year; it was called the -_annata_, and was paid in six annual instalments. The revenue of the -mitres was derived from the tithes; two ninths of which belonged to the -King, one fourth to the mitre and the remainder was applied to the other -ministers of the gospel, both of the choir and collated benefices. For -the security of the royal privileges, every bishop made oath, before he -took possession of his see, that he would respect the royal patronage, -and never oppose the exercise of its rights. - -The archbishop had his ecclesiastical tribunal, and so had all bishops -in the Spanish colonies. It was composed of himself, as president, the -fiscal, and provisor vicar general. All ordinary sentences were given by -the provisor, the president's signature being subjoined; but all -important cases were judged by the archbishop. - -The jurisdiction of this tribunal embraced all causes spiritual, such -as orders, marriages, divorces, legitimations, pious legacies, -monastical portions or dowries, with the defence and preservation of the -immunities of the church, and contentious disputes between the members -of the church, as well as those preferred by laymen against priests. All -who had received holy orders enjoyed the _fuero ecclesiastico_, and all -criminal complaints against the clergy must be laid before the -ecclesiastical tribunal, but there was an appeal to the royal audience, -as has been mentioned, by a _recurso de fuersa_. - -Suits instituted in an ecclesiastical court were equally as tedious and -expensive as those of a secular one. - -Five provincial councils have been held here for the regulation of -church discipline. The two first were held in 1551 and 1567 by Don Fray -Geronimo de Loaisa, and the other three in 1582, 1591, and 1601, by -Saint Thoribio de Mogroviejo. - -The provincial of each monastic order was the prelate, or head of the -order; he judged, in the first instance, of any misdemeanour committed -by the individuals wearing the habit; he also inflicted corporal as well -as spiritual punishments; besides ordering temporal privations, on -which account monasteries were not subject to the ordinary. - -The chapter, or _cabildo ecclesiastico_, of Lima had a dean, a subdean, -a magisterial canon, a doctoral, a penitentiary and a treasurer; six -prebendaries, four canons, six demi-proporcionaries, _medio racioneros_, -and for the service of the choir four royal chaplains, two choral -chaplains, a master of ceremonies, besides chaunters, musicians, -_monacillos_, who served at the altar; porters, beadles, &c. The -prebendaries and canons were distinguished from other clergymen by -wearing white lace or cambric cuffs. - -In the Spanish colonies the care of souls was confided to rectoral -curates, who officiated in parishes where the population was principally -Spanish or white creoles; they received a stipend out of the tithes, and -from their parishioners they were entitled to the firstlings, -_primicias_, which consisted of one bushel of grain of each description, -harvested by each separate individual, if the quantity harvested -exceeded seven bushels; but no more than one was exacted, however great -the quantity of grain might be. For animals and fruits they generally -compounded with their parishioners. They were also paid for baptisms, -marriages and funerals; besides which they had perquisites arising from -church feasts, masses, &c. - -The doctrinal curates were those destined to towns or parishes the -population of which was composed chiefly of indians; they had fewer -perquisites, and received nothing for baptisms, marriages, or funerals, -but a sum established by the synod, which was very small. They had -however a stipend assigned them by the King, which they got from the -treasury: it seldom exceeded 500 dollars. - -The missionaries enjoyed curial and apostolical privileges in their -villages, or reductions; they were of the order of Franciscans, who at -the extinction of the Jesuits filled all the missions vacated by this -death-blow to the advancement of Christianity among the unchristianized -tribes of indians in South America. - -The election of curates took place about every four years, and was -called the _concurso_, at which time all those possessed of benefices, -and who wished to be removed, presented themselves; having first -obtained permission from the archbishop, and left another clergyman in -charge of their parish. The archbishop and four _examinadores_ examined -them in Latin and theological points, and either approved or reproved -them. If the former, an allegation of merits and services was presented, -without any expression of inclination to any particular parish, and -after all the examinations were ended the archbishop nominated three -individuals to each of the third class or richest livings. These -nominations were forwarded to the Vice-patron, who confirmed one of each -three, and presented him with the benefice, returning immediately the -two remaining ones. Out of these, other nominations were made for the -second class, and then sent for confirmation. The returns furnished -names for the first or lowest class. The archbishop could appoint, on -the death of a curate, any priest to fill the vacancy pro tempore -without the confirmation of the Vice-patron. - -All persons who received holy orders must possess a sufficient _congrua_ -to support them decently, if not, they were ordained by a title of -adscription, by which the archbishop could attach them to any curacy as -assistants or coadjutors. - -No curate or priest could enjoy two livings or benefices, nor absent -himself under any pretence from the one he held without an express -permission from the vicar-general; none could appear as evidence in -cases where there was a possibility of the culprits being sentenced to -death, and they were expressly prohibited from interfering, either -directly or indirectly, as magistrates. It is certainly to be regretted, -that in all parts of the world, I mean the Christian world, the same -laws are not established; for what ought to be more dear to a shepherd -than his flock; but alas! many take charge of it for the sake of the -fleece, and for that only. - -Some of the popes, imagining in their ardour of usurpation, that they -should increase the sanctity of the Church by elevating it above the -reach of the law, barred its doors against the civil magistracy, and -made it the refuge of outlaws; thus mistaking pity for piety, Christian -forgiveness for religious protection: hence the temple was opened to the -murderer, his hands still reeking with the blood of his fellow citizen, -and closed against the minister of justice, whose duty it was to avenge -the crime; as if God had established his church for the protection of -vices in this world, which he has threatened with eternal punishment in -the next. - -Spain, either through fear or as the bigot of ancient customs, maintains -her asylums on the plan to which Charlemagne reduced them in France in -the eighth century. By the request of the King a bull was issued, dated -12th Sept. 1772, limiting the place of immunity throughout the Spanish -dominions to one church in each smaller town, and to two in large -cities; the Sagrario and San Larazo enjoyed this privilege in Lima. - -The immunity of the church protected a man who had killed another by -chance or in his own defence; but if he had been guilty of murder, or -had maliciously wounded a person so as to cause his death, it delivered -him over to the civil authorities at their request. The commission of a -crime in the church or its dependencies precluded immunity, which was -also withheld from persons convicted of high treason, although they -might take refuge in a privileged church; from those suspected of -heresy; heretics; jews; forgers of royal or apostolic letters or -patents; the defrauders of any bank or public treasury; false coiners of -coin current in the country; violaters of churches, or destroyers of -church property; persons who escaped from prison, from the officers of -justice, from exile, public labours or the galleys; blasphemers; -sorcerers; the excommunicated; debtors and thieves. - -Thus it appears, that immunity was available only in cases of -manslaughter; but if the person accused had been guilty of murder, -before it could be proved against him, he generally took care to make -his escape and elude the punishment. The same may be said of the greater -number of the instances to which immunity was denied; for few suffered, -like Joab, after having taken hold of the horns of the altar. - -The other tribunals in Lima were _el Consulado_, or the Board of -Commerce, founded in 1613. It had a prior and two consuls, who decided -in all mercantile affairs; they had an _asesor_ or legal adviser, -secretary, notary and porters; the Tribunal of the Holy Crusade, founded -in 1574, for the promulgation of the pope's bulls, and collection of -this part of the royal revenue; the Royal Treasury, established in 1607, -for the receipt of all treasure appertaining to the crown, and the -payment of all persons in the employ of the government; the Tribunal of -General Accompts; that of Temporalities, for recovering the value or -rents of the possessions and property of the ex Jesuits; and, lastly, -the Tribunal of the _Protomedicato_, for the examination of students in -medicine and surgery: it was composed of a president, a fiscal and two -examiners. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - Taxes, Alcavala....Indian Tribute....Fifths of the Mines....Lances - ....Stamped Paper....Tobacco...._Media Anata_...._Aprovechamientos_ - ...._Composicion and Confirmacion_ of Lands....Royal Ninths.... - Venal Offices....Estrays....Confiscations....Fines....Vacant - Successions...._Almoxarifasgo_...._Corso_...._Armada_....Consulate - ...._Cirquito_....Vacant Benefices...._Mesada Ecclesiastica_.... - _Media Anata Ecclesiastica_....Restitutions....Bulls. - - -The system of taxation in the Spanish colonies was as complicated as -their law suits in the courts of justice, and the ingenuity of the -theory practised in the exchequer can only be equalled by the -resignation of the people to the practice. The _alcavala_ was the most -ancient and most productive tax in the colonies; it was granted by the -Cortes to the King of Spain, in 1342, to defray the expenses of the war -against the Moors. At that time it was rated at five per cent., but in -the year 1366 it was increased to ten per cent. The order for the -collection of this tax in Peru was issued in 1591; it was first fixed -here at two per cent., and afterwards increased, according to the -exigences of the state, and the submission of the people, to six and a -half per cent. - -This tax was levied on every sale and resale of moveable and immoveable -property; all merchandize, manufactured produce, animals, buildings, in -fine, all kinds of property were liable to this impost the moment they -were brought into the market, and all contracts specified its payment. -Retail dealers generally compounded according to their stock and -presumed sale, and were compelled to abide by the composition. - -Those indians who became subject to the law of conquest, that is, all -whose forefathers did not voluntarily resign themselves to the Spanish -authorities, and solicit a curate, without causing any expense to be -incurred in their discovery or subjection, paid an annual tribute from -the age of eighteen to fifty. This tribute varied very much in different -provinces; some paying seven dollars and a half a year, others only two -and a half. An indian might redeem his tribute by advancing a certain -sum, proportionate to his age and the annual tribute. The tax was -collected by the _subdelegados_, governors of districts, who were -allowed six per cent. on the sum gathered, according to the tribute -roll, which was renewed every five years by a commissioner called the -_visitador_. This direct tax was more irksome to the people than any -other, and caused much general discontent, although those who paid it -enjoyed privileges more than equal to the impost. - -All metals paid to the King a fifth, for the collection of which proper -officers and offices were established. Gold in its native state was -carried to the royal foundry, _casa real de fundicion_, where it was -reduced to ingots, each of which was assayed and marked, its quality and -weight being specified; after which the fifth was paid, and then it was -offered for sale. Silver was also taken in its pure state, called -_piña_, and it was contraband to sell it until it had been melted, and -each bar marked in the same manner as the gold. Base metals were subject -to a similar impost, but reduced to bars by the miners, who afterwards -paid the fifth. - -Titles paid an annual fine of five hundred dollars each to the King, -unless the person in possession redeemed it by paying ten thousand -dollars. This tax, although unproductive in some parts, was worthy of -attention in Lima, where there were sixty-three titled personages, -marquises, counts and viscounts. - -All judicial proceedings in the different courts of justice, civil, -criminal, military and ecclesiastical; all agreements, testimonies, and -public acts, were required to be on stamped paper, according to a royal -order dated in 1638. It was stamped in Spain, bearing the date of the -two years for which it was to serve, or was considered to be in force; -after which term it was of no use. The surplus, if any, was cut through -the stamp, and sold as waste paper, and the court took care to supply -another stock for the two succeeding years. If the court neglected to do -this, the old paper was restamped by order of the Viceroy, bearing a fac -simile of his signature. There were four sorts of this paper, or rather -paper of four prices. That on which deeds and titles were written, or -permissions and pardons granted, cost six dollars the sheet; that used -for contracts, wills, conveyances and other deeds drawn up before a -notary, one dollar and a half; that on which every thing concerning a -course of law before the Viceroy or Audience was conducted, half a -dollar; and for writings presented by soldiers, slaves, paupers and -indians, the fourth class was used, and cost the sixteenth of a dollar -each sheet. The first sheet of the class required in any memorial or -document, according to the foregoing rules, was of that price, but the -remainder, if more were wanted, might be of the fourth class or lowest -price, or even of common writing paper. - -Tobacco was a royal monopoly, a price being fixed by the government on -the different qualities of this article, according to the province in -which it was grown; at such price the whole was paid for; after which it -was brought to Lima, where it was sold at an established rate at the -_estanco_, or general depôt. If any person either bought or sold tobacco -without a license, confiscation of the article and a heavy fine were the -result, and frequently the whole property of the offender became a -forfeit. On an average, the King purchased it at three reals, three -eighths of a dollar, per pound, and sold it again at two dollars; but -such was the number of officers employed to prevent smuggling, collect -the tobacco, and attend the estanco, that, on the whole, the revenue -suffered very considerably, although the profit was so great. Snuff was -not allowed to be manufactured in Peru; one kind called _polvillo_ was -brought from Seville, and rappee from the Havanna; but both were -included in the royal monopoly. To secure the tax imposed on tobacco, no -one could cultivate it without express permission from the Director; -and, on delivery, the planter was obliged to make oath as to the number -of plants which he had harvested; also that he had not reserved one leaf -for his own use, nor for any other purpose. This tyrannical monopoly -produced more hatred to the Spanish government than all the other -taxes. Not only every tobacco planter, but every consumer joined in -execrating so disagreeable an impost. - -The _media anata_, or moiety of the yearly product of all places or -employments under government, was paid into the treasury, or rather -reserved out of the stipend when the payment was made by the treasury. -This moiety was deducted for the first year only, and if the individual -were promoted to a more lucrative situation, he again paid the surplus -of his appointment for one year. - -_Aprovechamientos_, or profits, were, in seized goods, the excess of -their valuation over their sale, which excess was paid into the treasury -so that the King took the goods as they were appraised by _his -officers_, and appropriated to himself the profit of the public sale. - -Composition and confirmation of lands were the produce arising from the -sale of lands belonging to the crown, and the duty paid by the purchaser -for the original title deeds. - -The royal ninths, _novenos reales_, were the one ninth of all the tithes -collected: the amount was paid into the treasury. Tithes were -established in America by an edict of Charles V. dated the 5th of -October, 1501. They were at first applied wholly to the support of the -church; but in 1541 it was ordained that they should be divided into -four parts; one to be given to the bishop of the diocese, one to the -chapter, and out of the remainder two ninths should belong to the crown, -three for the foundation of churches and hospitals, and four ninths for -the support of curates and other officiating ecclesiastics. This -distribution was afterwards altered, and the seven ninths of the moiety -were applied to the latter purpose. The tithe on sugar, cocoa, coffee -and other agricultural productions which required an expensive process -before they were considered as articles of commerce paid only five per -cent.; but ten per cent. was rigorously exacted on all produce and -fruits which did not require such a process. Tobacco, being a royal -monopoly, paid no tithes. - -All offices in the _cabildos_, excepting those of the two _alcaldes_; -those of notaries, _escribanos_, receivers and recorders of the -audience, paid a fine to the King on his appointment, in proportion to -the value of the office, but the incumbent was allowed to sell his -appointment, on certain conditions established by law, which conditions, -however, almost debarred any person from being a purchaser. - -All property found was to be delivered to the solicitor of the treasury; -and if it remained one year unclaimed it was declared to belong to the -crown. All contraband or confiscated property paid to the King the -duties which would have been paid had the commodity been regularly -imported or exported; after which the value produced by sale, the -_aprovechamiento_ being deducted, was divided among the informer, the -captors, the intendant, the Council of Indies and the King. Fines -imposed as penalties in the different courts of justice belonged to the -crown, and were paid into the treasury. The property of any person dying -intestate appertained to the King. The revenue arising from commerce was -exacted under a great many heads, and was as complicated a system as the -rest of the Spanish proceedings, which appeared to be directed to the -employment of a number of officers and the diminution of finance. - -The _almoxarifasgo_ was paid on whatever was either shipped or landed; -on entering any Spanish port five per cent. was paid, on going out, two -per cent. - -The _corso_ was levied on entry as well as departure, being in both -cases two per cent. The duty called _armada_ was a tax established for -defraying the expenses incurred in the protection of vessels against -pirates; that of _corso_ against enemies in time of war; but although -the former might not exist, and the latter have ceased, the tax was -still levied, in contradiction to the old rule, that the effect ceases -with the cause. The armada was four per cent. on entry, and two on -departure. The duty of the consulate was received at the maritime custom -houses, and the product accounted for to the tribunal; it was one per -cent. on entry, and one on departure. - -Besides the foregoing taxes, the tariff taxes were paid, the list of -which would be too long for insertion. In 1810 the Viceroy Abascal -issued a decree, by which British manufactured goods were permitted to -be brought across the Isthmus of Panama, and thence to Callao, on -condition of their paying a duty of thirty-seven and a half per cent., -called _el derecho de cirquito_, circuit duty, in addition to all the -other taxes. A merchant in Lima assured me, that having remitted thirty -thousand dollars to Jamaica, to be employed in the purchase of cotton -goods, the expenses of freight, the porterage, and the duties together -amounted to forty-two thousand three hundred and seventy-five dollars by -the time the goods were warehoused in Lima. - -Among the ecclesiastical contributions to the state were major and minor -vacancies, which were the rents of vacant bishoprics, prebendaries and -canonries; these rents were paid into the treasury until the new -dignitary was appointed, and took possession of his benefice. - -The _mesada ecclesiastica_ was the amount of the first month, or the -twelfth part of the annual income of each rector after his presentation -to a new benefice. This was estimated by the solicitor of the treasury, -and religiously exacted. - -The _media anata ecclesiastica_ was the proceeds of the first six months -which the dignitaries and canons of the chapters paid out of the income -of their benefices. Restitution was the money which penitents delivered -to their confessors, being the amount of what they believed they had -defrauded the crown, by smuggling, or other unlawful practices. The name -of the restitutionist was kept a profound secret; all that the confessor -had to do was, to deliver the money he might receive to the collector at -the treasury. This was giving to Cæsar the things that are Cæsar's. - -The greatest amount of revenue which the King received from the church -arose from the sale of bulls; and of these there was a great variety. -Jovellanos says, in his description of the pope's bulls, "that they are -a periodical publication of the highest price, least value, meanest -type, and worst paper; all buy them, few read them, and none understand -them." - -The bulls were first granted by the popes as a kind of passport to -heaven to all those who died in the wars against infidels; they -contained most extraordinary dispensations, both with respect to -Christian duties in this world and to the punishment due to crimes in -the next; and although the crusades, and other wars that drove men to -heaven, or to some other place, at the point of the lance, or sword, had -ceased, yet the influence of the bulls in increasing the revenue was of -too great importance to the king for him to allow them to die with the -cause that gave them birth: their effects were too useful to be -renounced. - -According to the original terms of the bulls, no person could reap the -benefit unless he were actually serving in the war; afterwards he might -procure a substitute and remain secure at home; but now he can enjoy the -blessings of peace at a much cheaper rate. The bulls sold in South -America were, the general bull for the living, or of the holy crusade; -the bull of _lacticinios_, milk food; of _composicion_, accommodation; -and the bull for the dead. - -The general bull for the living retained its virtue in the hands of its -possessor for two years, at which period it expired, but the benefit -might be renewed by purchasing another. The advantages derived from the -possession of this bull included generally all those of the other three -though not in so direct a manner; having this, no cases were reserved -for papal absolution; all kinds of vows might be released, excepting -those which would contribute more to the church by their fulfilment; -blasphemy was forgiven; any thing except flesh meat might be eaten on -fast days; and one day of fasting, one prayer repeated, or one good deed -done, was equal to fifteen times fifteen forties of fast days, prayers, -or good deeds done by the unlucky being who had not purchased this bull. -Nay more--the buying of two bulls conveyed to the purchaser a double -portion of privileges. The price of this precious paper varied according -to the rank of the sinful purchaser: a viceroy, captain-general of a -province, lieutenant-general of the army and their wives paid fifteen -dollars for each bull; archbishops, bishops, inquisitors, canons, dukes, -marquises, and all noblemen, also magistrates and many others, five -dollars each; every individual who was in possession of property to the -amount of 6000 dollars, paid one dollar and a half for his bull; and all -persons under this class enjoyed all the privileges conceded to the rich -and powerful, for two and a half reals, or five sixteenths, of a dollar -each. - -The bull of _lacticinios_, or milk food, was issued for the benefit of -the clergy, they not being allowed by the general bull to eat such -dainties on fast days; but as the result did not answer the expectations -of the crown the commissary-general recommended the laity to purchase it -for the prevention of conscientious scruples. Archbishops, bishops, and -conventual prelates paid six; canons, dignitaries and inquisitors, paid -three; rectors and curates one and a half, and all other secular priests -one dollar for each bull. A celebrated Spanish writer, speaking of this -bull, says, "the holy father has only allowed them these dainties when -they can be procured, another bull is wanting to eat them at all events, -but for this purpose the bull of _composicion_ may be made to answer." - -This bull of composition, or accommodation, is monstrous; for it gives -to the possessor of stolen property a quiet conscience and absolute -possession, on condition that he has stolen it evading the punishment -applicable by law; that he knows not the person whom he has robbed or -defrauded, and that the knowledge of this accommodating bull did not -induce him to commit the theft. Thus this papal pardon by accommodation -or agreement insures to a lawless villain a quiet possession of -property, the means of acquiring which ought to have been rewarded by -the hangman! The possessor of the unlawfully acquired property fixed a -value on it, and purchased bulls to the amount of six per cent. on the -principal. Only fifty bulls could be purchased in one year by one -individual, but if he required more, he applied to the -commissary-general, whose indulgence might be purchased. - -The bull for the dead was a kind of safe conduct to paradise--the -masonic sign to Saint Peter for admission there, or a discharge from -purgatory, if the soul of the deceased had reached this place before the -bull was purchased, or if by some mishap the name of the individual had -not been written on it, or had been wrongly spelled. How unfortunate -must those pious Christians have been who lived, or rather who died at a -great distance from the bull vender, or who had not the means of -purchasing this pontifical passport; for every person must have one, the -article not being transferable, because this would injure the market; -but any person was allowed to purchase more than one and at any period -after the death of the person he wished to befriend, as its powerful -influence might be extended to the general benefit and alleviation of -souls in purgatory. Thus it is that piety when accompanied with money -has wonderful powers! All persons included among the first class of -purchasers of the general bull paid six eighths of a dollar, six reals, -for one for the dead, if he belonged to this class, but if he were of -the fourth it only cost two reals, two eighths of a dollar. - -I shall not pretend to give an estimate of the sum produced by the -taxes, the jealousy of the Spaniards towards a foreigner being so great -that it would have been dangerous for me even to have inquired. The two -following items I obtained by chance: - - - DOLLARS. - - The Custom House of Lima received in 1805 1592837-2½ - Ditto in 1810 1640324-4 - Produce of bulls in the Commissary's } - office for the Viceroyalty of Peru } in 1805 91021 - Ditto in 1810 97340-2 - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - City of Lima....Figure and Division....Walls....Bridge....Houses - ....Churches....Manner of Building....Parishes....Convents.... - Nunneries....Hospitals....Colleges...._Plasa Mayor_....Market.... - Interior of the Viceroy's Palace....Ditto Archbishop's Ditto.... - Ditto Sagrario....Ditto Cathedral....Ditto Cavildo. - - -The figure of the city of Lima approaches to that of a semicircle, -having the river Rima for its diameter; it is two miles long from east -to west, and one and a quarter broad from the bridge to the wall; it is -chiefly divided into squares, the length of each side being 130 yards; -but in some parts approaching to the wall this regularity is not -preserved; all the streets are straight, and they are generally about 25 -feet wide; the place contains 157 _quadras_, being either squares or -parallelograms, with a few diagonal intersections towards the -extremities of the city. - -The wall which encloses Lima, except on the side bordering on the river, -is built of _adobes_, sun-dried bricks, each brick being twenty inches -long, fourteen broad and four thick; they are made of clay, and contain -a very large quantity of chopped straw: these bricks are considered as -better calculated than stone to resist the shocks of earthquakes, and -from their elasticity they would probably be found pretty tough in -resisting a cannonading; however, of this there is little risk. The -walls are on an average twelve feet high, with a parapet three feet on -the outer edge: they are about ten feet thick at the bottom, and eight -at the top, forming a beautiful promenade round two-thirds of the city. -The wall is flanked with thirty-four bastions, but without embrasures; -it has seven gates and three posterns, which are closed every night at -eleven o'clock, and opened again every morning at four. This wall of -enclosure more than of defence was built by the Viceroy Duke de la -Palata, and finished in the year 1685; it was completely repaired by the -Viceroy Marquis de la Concordia, in the year 1808. All the gateways are -of stone, and of different kinds of architecture; that called _de -maravillas_, leading towards the pantheon, is very much ornamented with -stucco work. - -At the south east extremity of the city is a small citadel called Santa -Catalina; in it are the artillery barracks, the military depôt, and the -armoury. It is walled round and defended by two bastions, having small -pieces of artillery. The Viceroy Pezuela being an officer of artillery, -and formerly commandant of the body guard at Lima, paid great attention -to the citadel, and expended considerable sums of money in altering and -repairing it during the time of his viceroyalty. - -The bridge leading from the city to the suburb called San Lazaro is of -stone; it has five circular arches, and piers projecting on each side; -those to the east are triangular next the stream, and those on the -opposite side are circular; on the tops are stone seats, to which a -number of fashionable people resort and chat away the summer evenings. -From eight to eleven o'clock, or even later, it is remarkably pleasant, -both on account of the quantity of people passing to and fro, and from -the river being at this season full of water. On the east side the water -falls from an elevated stone base about five feet high, and forms a -species of cascade, the sound of the falling water adding much to the -pleasure enjoyed during the cool evenings of a tropical climate. At the -south end of the bridge is a stone arch, crowned with small turrets and -stucco, having a clock and dial in the centre; the whole was built and -finished by the order of the Viceroy Marquis of Montes Claros, in the -year 1613. - -The general aspect of the houses in Lima is novel to an Englishman on -his first arrival; those of the inferior classes have but one floor, and -none exceed two; the low houses have a mean appearance, too, from their -having no windows in front. If the front be on a line with the street -they have only a door, and if they have a small court-yard, patio, a -large heavy door opens into the street. Some of the houses of the richer -classes have simply the ground floor, but there is a patio before the -house, and the entrance from the street is through a heavy-arched -doorway, with a coach house on one side; over this is a small room with -a balcony and trellis windows opening to the street. Part of these -houses have neat green balconies in front, but very few of the windows -are glazed. Having capacious patios, large doors and ornamented trellis -windows, beside painted porticos and walls, with neat corridors, their -appearance from the street is exceedingly handsome. In some there is a -prospect of a garden through the small glazed folding doors of two or -three apartments; this garden is either real or painted, and contributes -very much to enliven the scenery. The patios, in summer, have large -awnings drawn over them, which produce an agreeable shade; but the flat -roofs, without any ornaments in front, present an appearance not at all -pleasing; if to this we add the sameness of the many dead walls of the -convents and nunneries, some of the streets must naturally look very -gloomy. - -Of the principal churches the fronts are elegant and the steeples more -numerous and more elevated than might be expected in a country so -subject to earthquakes as Peru. The architecture displayed in the -façades of these churches is more worthy of being called a peculiar -composite than any regular order; but in a great many instances this -peculiarity is pleasing: a particular description of them will be given -in the course of this work. - -The outer walls of the houses are generally built of adobes as far as -the first floor, and the division walls are always formed of canes, -plastered over on each side; this is called _quincha_: the upper story -is made first of a frame-work of wood; canes are afterwards nailed or -lashed with leather thongs on each side the frame-work; they are then -plastered over, and the walls are called _bajareque_. These additions so -considerably increase their bulk, that they seem to be composed of very -solid materials, both with respect to the thickness which they exhibit, -and the cornices and other ornaments which adorn them. Porticos, arches, -mouldings, &c. at the doorways are generally formed of the same -materials. Canes bound together and covered with clay are substituted -also for pillars, as well as other architectural ornaments, some of -which being well executed, and coloured like stone, a stranger at first -sight easily supposes them to be built of the materials they are -intended to imitate. The roofs being flat are constructed of rafters -laid across, and covered with cane, or cane mats, with a layer of clay -sufficient to intercept the rays of the sun, and to guard against the -fogs. Many of the better sort of houses have the roofs covered with -large thin baked bricks, on which the inhabitants can walk; these -asoteas, as they are called, are very useful, and are often overspread -with flowers and plants in pots; they also serve for drying clothes and -other similar purposes. Among the higher classes the ceilings are -generally of pannel work, ornamented with a profusion of carving; but -among the lower they are often of a coarse cotton cloth, nailed to the -rafters and whitewashed, or painted in imitation of pannel work. In -several of the meaner, however, the canes or cane mats are visible. - -Some of the churches have their principal walls and pillars of stone; -others of adobes and bajareque; the towers are generally of the latter -work, bound together with large beams of Guayaquil wood; the spires are -commonly of wood work, cased over with planks, and painted in imitation -of stone; with mouldings, cornices and other ornaments, either of wood -or stucco. - -In large buildings of every description there is generally a great -proportion of timber, keeping up a connection from the foundation to the -roof; thus there is less danger from the shocks of earthquakes than if -they were built of brick or more solid materials; for the whole building -yields to the motion, and the foundation being combined with the roof -and other parts, the whole moves at the same time, and is not so easily -thrown down. I suggested to a friend in Lima the idea of placing between -every tenth layer of adobes one of long canes; this he put in practice, -and afterwards informed me, that it was considered a great improvement, -so much so, that he thought the plan would be generally adopted, -especially as it produced a saving of timber, which is a dear article; -had also the effect of preventing the walls from cracking by the shocks -of earthquakes, and was equal to that of rafters of wood or frame-work -and bajareque. - -The city is divided into four parishes, the Sagrario, with three -rectors; Saint Ann, two; Saint Sebastian, two; Saint Marcelo, one. Here -are two chapels of ease, that of Saint Salvador in the parish of Saint -Ann, and that of the Orphans in the parish of the Sagrario. Over the -bridge are the suburbs of Saint Lazaro, with one rector, a curate at the -Cabesas and another at Carabaillo, five leagues from the city, beside -several chapels on the different plantations. In the Cercado there is a -parish of indians, founded by the Jesuits, and formerly under their -care. - -The convents are numerous. I shall first give a list of them, and -afterwards mention those that are individually worthy of notice. - - - { La casa grande. -San Francisco 3 { Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe } in the suburbs. - { Recoleto de San Diego } - - { La casa grande. - { Recoleta de la Magdalena. -Santo Domingo 4 { Santo Tomas, college for studies. - { Santa Rosa, hermitage. - - { Casa grande. - { San Ildefonso, college for studies. -San Augustin 4 { Nuestra Señora de guia, for novices. - { Cercado, college, formerly of the Jesuits. - - { Casa grande. -La Merced 3 { San Pedro Nolasco, college for studies. - { Recoleta de Belen. - - { San Pedro, formerly colegio maximo of the -San Pedro 1 { Jesuits, now Oratorio de San Felipe Neri. - - { Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados, formerly -Desamparados 1 { belonging to the Jesuits, now to the Oratorio - { de San Felipe Neri. - - { Angonizantes, buena muerte. -San Camilo 2 { Recoleta, in the suburbs of San Lazaro. - -San Francisco 2 { San Francisco de Paula, minims, new. - de Paula { Do. old, both in the suburbs of San Lazaro. - - { Nuestra Señora de Montserrat, hospicio of the -San Benedicto 1 { Benedictine Monks. - - { Convalecencia of San Rafael. -San Juan de Dios 2 { Nuestra Señora del Carmen, on the road to Callao. - - { Casa grande, outside the walls, for convalescents. -Bethlemitas 2 { Incurables, inside the walls. - - -The nunneries in Lima are La Encarnacion, La Concepcion, Santa Catalina, -Santa Clara, Las Trinitarias, El Carmen Alto, Santa Teresa, or Carmen -Baxo, Descalsos de San Jose, Capuchinas de Jesus Maria, Nasarenas, -Mercedarias, Santa Rosa, Trinitarias descalsas. El Praso, and Nuestra -Señora de Copacavana for indian ladies. - -The following are _beaterios_, houses of seclusians, which do not take -the monastic vows: Santa Rosa de Viterbo, Nuestra Señora del Patrocinio, -San Jose for women divorced from their husbands, and the Recogidas for -poor women, somewhat similar to the Magdalen Hospital in London. - -Each of these religious houses has a church or chapel, making in the -whole as follows:-- - - - Parish Churches 6 - Semi-parochias, chapels of ease 2 - Conventual Churches and Chapels 44 - -- - 52 - -- - - -Besides these each hospital has a chapel; many of the convents also -have chapels attached to them: San Francisco has that of Los Dolores and -El Milagro, and several of the principal inhabitants have private -oratories, there being altogether upwards of one hundred places of -worship, supporting more than eight hundred secular and regular priests, -and about three hundred nuns, with a great number of lay brothers and -sisters. - -Lima has the following hospitals, each appropriated to some peculiar -charity:-- - -San Andres, for Spaniards and maniacs--Santa Ana, for indians--San -Bartolome, for negroes and African castes--San Pedro, for poor -ecclesiastics--El Espiritu Santo, for seamen--San Pedro Alcantara, for -females--La Caridad, for females--Bethlemitas, for females, opposite the -convent--San Lazaro, for lepers; in addition to the three already -mentioned. - -The Colleges in Lima are:--Santo Toribio, an ecclesiastical -seminary--San Martin, afterwards San Carlos, now San Martin again, for -secular studies--Colegio del Principe, for Latin grammar and the sons of -indian caciques, besides the conventual colleges, where many of the -lower classes are taught Latin, and some branches of science, gratis, by -the friars. - -The _plasa mayor_, principal square, stands nearly in the centre of the -city (the suburbs of San Lazaro being included) about 150 yards from the -bridge; on the north side stands the Viceroy's palace, having an -ornamented gateway in the centre, where the horse guards are stationed; -this front is 480 feet long: the lower part is divided into petty -pedlars' shops, filled with all kinds of wares, open in front, the doors -which enclose them being thrown back; so that those of one shop meet -those of two neighbouring ones, and all of them are generally adorned -with part of the stock in trade, hung on them for sale. Over these runs -a long gallery, with seats rising one above another, for the -accommodation of the inhabitants when there is any féte in the square; -on the top there is a railing, carved in imitation of balustrades. At -the north-west corner is a gallery for the family of the Viceroy, which -on days of ceremony was fitted up with green velvet hangings, ornamented -with gold lace and fringe; a state chair to correspond being placed for -his Excellency in the centre. It was here that the Viceroy Marquis de -Castel-forte presented himself to witness the death of the innocent -Fiscal Antequera, in 1726; here LORD COCHRANE stood, when the -independence of Lima was declared in 1821; and from hence the medals -commemorative of that glorious day were distributed. - -On the east side is the cathedral, having a light ornamented façade, -with large folding doors in the centre and smaller ones on each side, -surmounted by a handsome balustrade and two steeples, each of which -contains a peal of fine-toned bells, a clock and dials. The entrance to -this rich building is by a flight of steps, the area being ten feet -above the level of the plasa. On the north side of the cathedral is the -Sagrario, with a very beautiful façade; and adjoining stands the -Archbishop's palace, which surpasses in appearance every other building -in the square. Green balconies, glazed, run along the front, on each -side of an arched gateway, which leads into the patio; but the lower -part is disgraced with small shops, the nearest one to the Sagrario -being a _pulperia_, grog shop! Under the area of the cathedral there is -also a range of small shops, one of which formerly belonged to Don -Ambrosio Higgins, who was a pedlar and failed. He afterwards went to -Chile, entered the army, obtained promotion, discovered the city of -Osorno, and was honoured with the title of Marquis of Osorno. In 1786 he -returned to Lima in the high capacity of Viceroy, and found his old -friend and brother pedlar, La Reguera, enjoying the archiepiscopal -mitre: a coincidence of good fortune not often equalled. La Reguera had -some time before left Lima for Spain, his native country, and having -been more fortunate in trade than Higgins, had prosecuted his studies, -and returned archbishop in 1781. - -On the south side is a row of private houses, having a balcony and -trellis windows: over the piazza, which is ten feet broad, the pillars -are of stone; a row of mercers' and drapers' shops occupies the piazza, -and between the pillars are stationed a number of men, principally -indians, employed in making fringe, silk buttons, epauletts, &c.; hence -it is called, _el portal de botoneros_. In the middle of this piazza is -_el callejon de petateros_, remarkable as being the site of Pizarro's -palace, and where he was murdered. - -The west side is similar to the south, and at the north end of it is the -_casa consistorial_, corporation house; under it is the city gaol, in -front of which is the council hall, which has on one side the door a -canopy over the royal arms. Under this the alcaldes formerly stood to -administer justice. Here it was that, some years ago, the young Viscount -de San Donas sentenced the coachman of Judge Nuñes to receive a hundred -lashes for carrying prohibited arms: the man was tied to an ass, and the -hangman, having inflicted twenty-five stripes, was marching him to the -next corner to administer the same number, when the judge, informed of -the affair, left the audience chamber, and proceeded in his robes to the -rescue of his servant; but in this he was prevented by the alcalde; the -judge became boisterous,--the punishment was continued; at length his -lordship insulted the alcalde, who immediately ordered his alguazils to -seize him and conduct him to the court gaol, where San Donas confined -him in a dungeon, took the keys, went home, ordered his horse, and left -the city. When he returned in the evening he waited on the Viceroy, -Castel-forte, who urgently interceded for the judge; but the alcalde -kept him in prison until he apologised for his improper attempt to -prevent a magistrate from enforcing the execution of a lawful sentence. - -In the centre of the square is a beautiful brass fountain, erected by -the Viceroy Count de Salvatierra in 1653. The basin is very capacious: -in the middle rises a brass column twenty two feet high, on the top of -which is a small cupola supported by four pillars; the whole is -surmounted by a figure of Fame. Through the trumpet water is ejected; -but the greater portion rises within the dome, after which it falls into -a large basin, from thence into another of greater dimensions, and from -thence through four orifices into a basin which has an ornamented brass -enclosure, surmounted by four treble lions, ejecting water from their -mouths into the basin. There are also four smaller fountains at the -angles of the central one, having each a brass pillar five feet high, -with four orifices, whence water issues. The water is the best in Lima, -and at all hours of the day the carriers are busy in conveying it to -different parts of the city. For this purpose they have a mule, with a -pack-saddle and two hoops affixed to it, into which they put two -barrels, each containing about ten gallons, behind which a man generally -jumps up and rides. The carrier has a thick stick with an inverted iron -hook near the top, with which he props one barrel when he takes out the -other. If the water be for sale a small bell is attached to one of the -hoops, which continues tinkling as the mule trots along. The price is -one real for the two barrels. - -In this square the principal market is held, and one of the greatest -luxuries which the eye can witness is enjoyed by visiting it about five -or six o'clock in the morning, when the articles for sale are just -brought in. It is divided into several compartments by rows of large -pebbles, which are placed merely to limit the venders, and prevent -their encroaching on the public walks. The butchers' market is generally -well supplied with excellent beef and mutton; but calves and lambs are -never killed, this being prohibited by an old law for the promotion of -the breed of cattle. Pork is sold in one part; in another all kinds of -salted and dried meats, principally brought from the interior; these are -_charque_, jerked beef; _sesina_, beef salted and smoked or dried in the -sun: hams, bacon, and frozen kid from the mountains, which last is most -delicate eating: there are likewise many kinds of sausages; salt fish, -principally _bacalao_, from Europe; _tollo_, _congrio_, and corbina. The -fish market is in some seasons abundantly supplied from the neighbouring -coasts with corbina, _jureles_, mackerel, _chita_, plaice, turbot, peje -rey, lisa, anchovies, &c., and most excellent crayfish, _camarones_, -from the rivers, some of which are six or seven inches long. Fish is -generally cheap; but during Lent, and particularly in Passion Week, it -is excessively dear; which arises from the indians enjoying the -exclusive privilege of fishing, and being at that time of the year too -much occupied with their religious duties to attend to their regular -business. Indeed no indian will fish on the Thursday, Friday, or -Saturday in Passion Week; and I have seen a fish sold on those days for -twenty or twenty-five dollars, which at other times might have been -bought for one, or even less. - -The poultry market is divided, one place being set apart for the live, -and another for the dead. Poultry is almost always dear; a turkey costs -from three to five dollars; a fowl from one to two dollars; ducks, -Muscovy, the same price; pigeons half a dollar each; geese are seldom -seen in the market, for as the natives never eat them, very few are -bred. Here is also a market for all kinds of pulse--beans of several -descriptions, peas, lentils, maize of five or six kinds, _gurbansos_, -quinua, &c. The vegetable market contains every description of -horticultural produce known in England, as well as the _arracacha_, -_yuca_, casava root, _camote_, sweet potatoe, yam, _oca_, &c. The -vegetables are remarkably fine, in great abundance, and generally cheap. -The fruit market is splendid, furnishing the most delicious fruits of -Europe--the grape of several varieties, the peach, apricot and -nectarine, the apple, the pear, the pomegranate, the quince, the tomate, -and the strawberry; and an abundance of luscious tropical fruits--the -pine, the melon, badeas, granadillas, sapote, lucuma, nisperos, guavas, -paltas, guanabanas, custard apples, the sweet and sour orange, lime, -and lemon, the shaddock, the citron, the plantane, the banana, and above -all the chirimoya, the queen of tropical fruits. The portion allotted to -the flower sellers is appropriately called the _calle del peligro_, -street of danger; for here the gentle fair resort, and their gallant -swains watch the favourable opportunity of presenting to them the -choicest gifts of Flora. This corner of the market, at an early hour in -the morning, is truly enchanting; the fragrance of the flowers, their -beauty and quantity, and the concourse of lovely females--altogether -would persuade a stranger that he had found the Muses wandering in -gardens of delight! In the vicinity stands a _fresquera_, vender of iced -lemonade, pine-apple water, _orchata_, almond milk, pomegranate water, -&c. which offer another opportunity for gallantry. It is no exaggeration -in the citizens of Lima when they assert, that they have one of the -finest markets in the world, for every thing in art and nature -contributes to its support: the beautiful climate near the coast, the -vicinity of the mountains, where all climates may be found, from the -ever-during snow to perpetual sunshine--send their abundant and rich -produce to this cornucopia of Ceres and Pomona. - -The interior of the Viceroy's palace is very mean; but it is said to -have been a magnificent building before it was destroyed by an -earthquake on the 20th October, 1687. Its principal entrance is on the -west side, in a narrow street leading to the bridge from the plasa; to -the right of the entrance is the guard-room, where a company of -infantry, a captain, lieutenant, and ensign are stationed: to the left -there are four flights of steps leading to the _sala de los Vireys_, at -the door of which is a guard of halberdiers, dressed in blue coats with -full trimming of broad gold lace, crimson waistcoat and breeches with -gold lace, silk stockings, velvet shoes, a laced hat, and a halberd. -These soldiers are generally of good families: they are twenty-five in -number, and the captain, their only officer, was always a young -nobleman, because the situation was considered as highly honourable. -Each Viceroy nominated a captain on his arrival. Don Diego Aliaga, son -to the Marquis de Lurigancho, was captain to Abascal and Pezuela. The -_sala de los Vireys_, so called on account of its containing full-length -portraits of all the Viceroys from Pizarro to Pezuela,[5] was used only -on days of ceremony, when the Viceroy stood under a canopy of crimson -velvet, trimmed with gold, and received in the name of the King the -compliments addressed to him, which however were generally set speeches, -studied for the occasion. The Regent pronounced the first harangue, then -followed the controller of the tribunal of accompts, the dean in the -name of his chapter, the alcalde of the first vote, the prior of the -consulate, the inquisitor mayor, the commissary of the crusade, the -rector of the university, a senior collegian from each college, and a -master friar from each community. These levees were called _dias de besa -manos_, which ceremony was performed _de facto_ in Madrid, the whole -court kissing the King's hand, and this was almost the only ceremony -which the royal representative in Lima dispensed with. - -To the right of this hall there is a narrow corridor, looking into a -small garden on the right, having a suite of rooms on the left, which on -days of ceremony were used as assembly rooms; there are also some -closets, which may serve as sleeping rooms or studies, each having a -small glazed balcony next the street. Two young British officers, -belonging to the Briton, were one night detected by the sentry -attempting to pay a visit, at one of those commodious _ventanas_, to -Miss Ramona Abascal, the Viceroy's daughter, and her female companion. -The young ladies made fast the end of the sash belonging to Mr. B., but -an unfortunate laugh alarmed the intruding sentry. From the north-west -corner another range of rooms extends along the north side, which leads -to those of the pages and other domestics; on the east side of the -garden there is a terrace forming a passage to a range of apartments, -where the chaplain, surgeon and secretary usually resided. A private -passage under the terrace leads to one of those rooms constructed by the -Viceroy Amat, for the purpose of receiving the midnight visits of the -famous Perricholi. This name was given to the lady by her husband, an -Italian, who wishing to call her a _perra chola_, indian b----h, gave an -Italian termination to the words, and a name to his wife, by which she -was ever afterwards known in Lima. In 1810 she was living at the new -mills, at the corner of the _alameda vieja_. This circumstance I take -the liberty to mention, because persons going to Lima will often hear on -their arrival the name of this once handsome and generous woman, whose -beauty had so far influenced her admirer, the Viceroy, that she at one -time persuaded him to feed her mules at midnight, _en camisa_; and at -another obtained from him the reprieve of a criminal on the morning he -was to have suffered. In her youth she was on the stage; but she spent -her last days in seclusion, and her last dollars in works of charity. -The dining room is on the east side of the garden, and has a staircase -leading from the kitchen; it is low and dark, and has a dirty -appearance. The rooms used on public occasions have each a crimson -velvet canopy, under which were hung portraits of the reigning King and -Queen; beside some antique furniture which belonged to the palace, glass -chandeliers, &c.; but the whole was a very mean display for a Viceroy of -Peru. - -The palace also contained the royal treasury, the courts of the royal -audience, the Viceroy's chapel, the county gaol, the secretary's -offices, and some others belonging to the attendants. Each front of the -palace was disgraced with mean pedlars' and shoemakers' shops, and close -to the principal entrance was a pulperia, common grog shop, for the -accommodation, I suppose, of the coachmen, footmen and soldiers on duty. -The north and south sides of this building are four hundred and eighty -feet long; the others four hundred and ten. - -The interior of the archbishop's palace is but small; a flight of steps -opposite the entrance leads to a corridor that runs round the -court-yard; on the north side are the dining and drawing rooms; on the -west, fronting the plasa, are the principal levee rooms; on the south -the secretary's offices; and on the east the apartments belonging to the -domestics. The principal rooms are neatly fitted up; in some of them the -walls are covered with crimson damask, having gilt cornices and -mouldings. - -The interior of the Sagrario, which may be called the principal parish -church, or matrix, is more splendid than rich; the roof is beautifully -pannelled, having a cupola in the centre, resting on the four corners -formed by the intersection of the cross aisle; it is lofty, and the -several altars are splendidly carved, varnished and gilt. Great part of -the high altar is cased with silver; the sacrarium is highly finished, -and the custodium of gold, richly ornamented with diamonds and other -precious stones. The whole service is costly, both in plate and robes. -The baptismal font is in a small chapel on one side; it is large, and -covered with a thick casing of pure silver. - -The cathedral, like all others, is spoiled by having the choir in the -centre, blocking up the view of the high altar, which otherwise would -present a most majestic appearance from the centre porch. The walls and -floor are of good freestone, and the roof, which is divided into -compartments, is most beautifully pannelled and carved; it is upheld by -a double row of neat square pillars of stone work, supporting the -arches, and corresponding with the buttresses in the walls; all these, -on festivals, are covered with Italian crimson velvet hangings, except -in Passion Week, when they are clothed with purple ones of the same -quality. Both sets are edged with broad gold lace, with a deep gold -fringe at the bottom, and festoons with lace and fringe at the top. - -The lateral altars are placed in niches between the buttresses, having -ornamented gates before them, which, when opened inwards, form the -presbytery. Some of these altars are rich, but none of them handsome. At -the back of the high altar is a chapel dedicated to Saint Francisco -Xavier, in which there are effigies of two archbishops, in white marble, -kneeling before reclinatories. In this chapel was the archbishops' -burying vault, which is now closed, and they, in common with all other -people, are carried to the pantheon, where the first corpse interred was -that of Archbishop La Reguera, being exhumed for the purpose. - -The throne, or high altar, has a most magnificent appearance; it is of -the Corinthian order, the columns, cornices, mouldings, pedestals, &c. -being cased with pure silver; it is also surmounted with a celestial -crown of gilt silver; in the centre is the sacrarium, richly ornamented -with chased silver work. The custodium is of gold, delicately wrought, -and enriched with a profusion of diamonds and other precious stones: -from the pedestal to the points of the rays it measures seven feet, and -is more than any moderate sized person can lift. The front of the altar -table is of embossed silver, very beautiful. On each side of the altar -is an ornamented reading desk, where the gospel and epistle are -chaunted. From the foot of the presbytery runs on either side to the -choir a railing, and the front of the choir is closed by tastefully -wrought gilt iron palisades, having two large gates in the centre. The -stalls are of carved cedar, and the state chair of curious workmanship; -it is considered as a relic, because it was used by Saint Toribio de -Mogroviejo, archbishop of Lima, from 1578 to 1606. The choral music is -very select, and the two organs finely toned. The pulpit is in the -modern taste, highly varnished and gilt. - -On grand festivals this church presents an imposing coup d'oeil; the -high altar is illuminated with more than a thousand wax tapers; the -large silver candelabra, each weighing upwards of a hundred pounds; the -superb silver branches and lamps, and the splendid service of plate on -the left of the altar, are indescribably striking. The archbishop in his -costly pontifical robes is seen kneeling under a canopy of crimson -velvet, with a reclinatory and cushions of the same material; a number -of assisting priests in their robes of ceremony fill the presbytery; -from which, leading towards the choir, are seats covered with velvet, on -the left for the officers of state and the corporation, on the right for -the judges, who attend in full costume. In the centre, in front of the -altar, is a state chair covered with crimson velvet, with cushions, and -a reclinatory to match, for the Viceroy, when he attended in state, -having on each side three halberdiers of his body guard; behind him -stood his chaplain, chamberlain, groom, captain of the body guard, and -four pages in waiting. If any ceremony can flatter the vanity of man, it -must be that of offering incense to him in such a situation:--three -times during mass one of the acolites came down from the presbytery with -an incensary, and bowed to the Viceroy, who stood up amid a cloud of -smoke; the acolite bowed and retired, and the Viceroy again knelt down. - -The gold and silver brocades, tissues and other stuffs, the laces and -embroidery for robes, vestments and decorations, are of the most costly -kind that can be procured. The sacred vessels, chalices, patenas, -hostiarias, &c. are often of gold, enriched with a profusion of the -rarest gems, so that nothing can display more grandeur than is beheld -here on great festivals, when divine service is performed with a pomp -scarcely to be imagined. - -At the east end are two doors, corresponding with the two lateral doors -in the front, and producing a fine effect. The area is spacious, and -paved with freestone on the west, south, and east sides of this -building, and the surrounding wall is surmounted by an ornamental -palisade. - -The corporation hall, sala consistorial, on the north-west side of the -plasa, or square, offers nothing worthy of notice; it is a large room, -containing benches for the members of the cavildo, a state chair and -canopy for the president, some plans of the city hanging on the walls, -and a closet for the archives. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[5] It is a curious circumstance, that the hall was exactly filled with -portraits when the liberating forces entered Lima, there not being one -spare pannel, nor room to place another painting, without removing some -of the old ones. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - Particular Description of Parish Churches....Of Santo - Domingo....Altar of the Rosary, St. Rosa and other - Altars....Cloisters....Sanctuary of Saint Rosa....Church of San - Francisco....Chapels _Del Milagro_, _De Dolores_, De los - Terceros....Pantheon....Cloisters....San Diego....San Agustin - ...._La Merced_....Profession of a Nun, or taking the - Veil....Hospitals of San Andres, of San Bartolome and - others....Colleges of Santo Toribio, San Carlos, _Del - Principe_....University....Inquisition....Taken to it in - 1806....Visit to it in 1812, after the Abolition....Inquisitorial - Punishments....Foundling Hospital....Lottery....Mint....Pantheon. - - -The parish churches of Lima have nothing to recommend them particularly -to the notice of a stranger. St. Lazaro has an elegant façade, and -presents a good appearance from the bridge; the interior is tastefully -ornamented; the ceiling is of pannel work, and the several altars highly -varnished and gilt. The living is said to produce about thirty thousand -dollars annually, and is often called the little bishopric. - -Of the conventual churches, only those belonging to the principal houses -are remarkably rich. St. Dominic, Santo Domingo, about a hundred yards -from the plasa mayor, is truly magnificent; the tower is the loftiest in -the city, being sixty-one yards high, built chiefly of bajareque; the -bells are good, especially the great one, which was cast in 1807: none -of the large bells are rung as in England; having no swing wheels, the -clappers are merely dragged backwards and forwards till they strike the -sides of the bells. The roof of the church is supported by a double row -of light pillars, painted and gilt; the ceiling is divided into pannels -by gilt mouldings, and the large central pannels exhibit some good -scriptural paintings in fresco. The high altar, as usual, is on an -elevated presbytery: it is of modern architecture, of the Ionic order; -the columns are varnished in imitation of marble, with gilt mouldings, -cornices and capitals. At the foot of the presbytery, on the right, -stands the beautifully rich chased and embossed silver cased altar of -our Lady of the Rosary. This altar exceeds any other in Lima both in -richness and effect; it is entirely covered with pure silver; its -elegant fluted columns, highly finished embossed pedestals, capitals, -cornices, &c., some of which are doubly gilt, are magnificently superb. -In the centre of the altar is the niche of the Madonna, of exquisite -workmanship; the interior contains a transparent painting of a temple, -the light being admitted to it by a window at the back of the altar. The -effigy is gorgeously dressed--the crown is a cluster of diamonds and -other precious gems; and the drapery of the richest brocades, laces and -embroidery; the rosary is a string of large pearls of the finest orient. -Such is the abundance, or rather profusion, of drapery, that the same -dress is never continued two days together, throughout the year. Before -the niche fifteen large wax tapers are continually burning in silver -sockets; and in a semicircle before the altar are suspended, by massy -silver chains, curiously wrought, fourteen large heavy silver lamps, -kept constantly lighted with olive oil. Besides these are, similarly -suspended, eight fancifully wrought silver bird cages, whose inmates, in -thrilling notes, join the pealing tones of the organ and the sacred -chaunt of divine worship. Four splendid silver chandeliers hang opposite -the altar, each containing fifteen wax tapers; below are ranged six -heavy silver candelabra, six feet high, and six tables cased in silver, -each supporting a large silver branch with seven tapers; also four urns -of the same precious metal, filled with perfumed spirits, which are -always burning on festivals, and emit scents from the most costly drugs -and spices; the whole being surrounded by fuming pastillas, held by -silver cherubim. On those days when the festivals of the Virgin Mary -are celebrated, and particularly at the feast of the rosary and octavo, -the sumptuous appearance of this altar exceeds all description: at that -time, during nine days, more than a thousand tapers blaze, and the -chaunting and music of the choir are uninterrupted. - -At the celebration of these feasts many miracles are pretended to be -wrought by this Madonna; and many absurd legends are related from the -pulpit, tending more to inculcate superstition than religion--more to -increase pious frauds, than to enforce sound morality. It was for -speaking thus irreverently of these ceremonies, to one of the -double-hooded brethren, that I was brought before the holy inquisition, -of which I shall say more when I conduct my readers to that now-deserted -mansion. On the left of the high altar stands one dedicated to Saint -Rose; it is richly ornamented, and has a large urn, containing an effigy -of the saint, in a reclining posture, of white marble, and good -sculpture. On each side of the church are six altars, coloured and -varnished in imitation of different marbles, lapis lazuli, &c. with gilt -mouldings, cornices, and other embellishments. The choir is over the -entrance at the principal porch; it is capacious, and has two good -organs. The music belonging to this church is all painted on vellum by -a lay brother of the order, and some of the books are ably done. - -Three of the cloisters are very good; the principal one is elegant; it -has two ranges of cells, and the pillars and arches are of stone, of -fine workmanship. The lower part of the walls is covered with Dutch -tiles, exhibiting sketches from the life of St. Dominick, &c. Above are -large indifferently executed paintings of the life and miracles of the -tutelary saints: they are generally concealed by panelled shutters, -which are opened on holidays and festivals. At the angles of this -cloister are small altars, with busts and effigies, most of them in bad -style. The lower cloisters are paved with freestone flags--the upper -ones with bricks. Some of the cells are richly furnished, and display -more delicate attention to luxury than rigid observance of monastic -austerity. The library contains a great number of books on theology and -morality. On the wall of the stairs leading from the cloister to the -choir is a fine painting of Christ in the sepulchre. - -The rents of this convent amount to about eighty thousand dollars -annually, and the number of friars belonging to the order is one hundred -and forty. The provincial prelates are elected by the chapter every -year, being a Spaniard and a Creole alternately, and the contests run so -high, that a military force has sometimes been found necessary to -prevent bloodshed. - -Belonging to this order is the sanctuary of Saint Rose, she having been -a _beata_, a devotee of the order, wearing the Dominican habit. In the -small chapel are several relics or remains of the saint, as bones, hair, -&c., but more particularly a pair of dice, with which, it is pretended, -when Rose was exhausted by prayers and penance, Christ often entertained -her with a game. Shame having become paramount to deceit, the pious -brethren have lately been loath to expose these dice, which, however, -were shewn to me in 1805, and I kissed them with as much pious devotion -as I would have done any other pair. - -The church, chapels and convents of San Francisco, belonging to the casa -grande, about 200 yards from the great square, plasa mayor, are the -largest and most elegant in Lima. The church does not possess the riches -of St. Dominick's, but its appearance is more solemn; the porch is -filled with statues and other ornaments, and the two steeples are lofty -and somewhat elegant. The roof is supported by two rows of stone -pillars, and is of panel work of the Gothic order: some of the altars -are curiously carved and gilt, and the pillars, moulding, &c. of the -sacrariums are cased with silver: the service of plate is rich, and the -robes of the priests are splendid. Like the cathedral, this church has a -complete set of crimson velvet hangings, laced and fringed with gold. - -The chapel called _del Milagro_ is most tastefully ornamented; some of -the paintings executed by Don Matias Maestre are good: the high altar is -cased with silver, and the niche of the Madonna is beautifully wrought -of the same material. Mass is celebrated here every half-hour, from five -in the morning till noon. In the vestry of this chapel are paintings of -the heads of the apostles, by Reubens, or, as some assert, by Morillo; -however this may be, they are undoubtedly very fine. The following story -is related of this Madonna. On the 27th of November, 1630, a very severe -shock of an earthquake was felt; the effigy was then standing over the -porch of the church, fronting the street; but at the time of the shock -she turned round, they say, and facing the high altar, lifted up her -hands in a supplicating posture, and thus, according to many pious -believers, preserved the city from destruction! From this act she is -called _del milagro_, of the miracle. - -[Illustration: FEMALES OF LIMA. - -_Engraved for Stevenson's Narrative of South America._] - -Another chapel, elegantly ornamented, is of Nuestra Señora de los -Dolores; and one in the interior of the convent is dedicated to the -fraternity of Terceros of the order, and the religious exercises of St. -Ignacio de Loyola, with a cloister of small cells for _exercitantes_. -The chapel contains five beautiful paintings from the passion of Christ, -by Titian; they belong to the Count of Lurigancho, and are only lent to -the chapel. Inside the convent is a pantheon or mausoleum for the order -and some of the principal benefactors; but it is at present closed, all -the dead being now interred at the pantheon on the outside the city -walls. The principal cloister is very handsome: the lower part of the -walls is covered with blue and white Dutch tiles, above which is a range -of paintings, neatly executed, taken from the life of St. Francis. The -pillars are of stone; the mouldings, cornices, &c. of stucco. The roof -is of panel work, which with the beams is most laboriously carved: at -the angles are small altars of carved wood. In the middle of this -cloister there is a garden and an arbour of jessamine on trellis work, -crossing it at right angles: in the centre is a beautiful brass -fountain; and in the middle of each square, formed by the intersection -of the arbour, is a smaller one, throwing the water twenty feet high. -The minor squares are filled with pots of choice flowers, and a number -of birds in cages hang among the jessamines. Two large folding gates -lead from the church to the cloister, and whether the garden be viewed -from the former, or the music of the choir be heard from the latter, the -effect is equally fascinating. The stairs from the lower cloister to the -upper, as well as the church choir, are beautifully finished. There are -two flights of steps to the first landing place, and one from thence to -the top; the centre flight is supported by a light groined arch; over -the whole is a dome of wood-work, elegantly carved, and producing a most -noble effect. This convent has nine cloisters, including the noviciate, -and belonging to it there are about three hundred friars. The provincial -prelate is elected by the chapter, a Spaniard and a Creole alternately; -the order is of mendicants, and consequently possesses no property; it -is supported by charity, and having the exclusive privilege of selling -shrouds, it acquires a very large income, as no one wishes that a -corpse should be buried without the sacred habit of St. Francis. The -shroud is in fact exactly the same as the habit of the friar, which gave -rise to the curious remark of a foreigner, "that he had observed none -but friars died in this place." The library is rich in theological -works. - -Belonging to St. Francis is the recluse of St. Diego. The friars in this -small convent wear the coarse grey habit, and are barefooted. They lead -a most exemplary life, seldom leave their cloisters except on the duty -of their profession, and even then one never goes alone; if a young -friar be sent for, an old friar accompanies him, and vice versa: to the -intent that the young friar may profit by the sage deportment of the -old. At this convent, as well as at every other of the order of St. -Francis, food is daily distributed to the poor at twelve o'clock, at the -postern, and many demi-paupers dine with the community in the refectory. -The gardens of St. Diego are extensive, and contain a large stock of -good fruit trees, as well as medicinal plants. The solemn silence which -reigns in the small but particularly clean cloisters of this convent -seem to invite a visitor to religious seclusion; for, as it is often -said, the very walls breathe sanctity. Here is also a cloister of small -cells, and a chapel for religious exercises, where any man may retire -for a week from the hurry and bustle of the town, and dedicate a portion -of his life to religious meditation. During Lent the number of those who -thus retire is very great; their principal object is to prepare -themselves to receive the communion; and they have every assistance with -which either precept or example can furnish them. - -The church of San Agustin is small, light, and ornamented with sculpture -and gilding. The convent is of the second class, but the order is rich, -and their college of San Ildefonso is considered the best conventual -college in Lima. - -The church of Nuestra Señora de la Merced is large, but not rich. This -order, as well as that of San Agustin, elect their provincial prelates -every year; they are always natives, no Spaniard being allowed to become -a prelate; even the habit is denied them, so that few Spaniards of -either of the two orders are to be found in Lima, and these few belong -to other convents. The duty of the order, which is denominated a -military one, is to collect alms for the redemption of captive -Christians. - -In the churches belonging to the nunneries there is a great quantity of -tasteful ornaments, but nothing very costly, although the income of one, -the Concepcion, exceeds a hundred thousand dollars annually. It is said, -that the four best situations in Lima are the Mother Abbess of -Concepcion, the Provincialate of Santo Domingo, the Archbishopric, and -the Viceroyalty. - -The enormous sums of money which the nunneries have received at -different times almost exceed belief; for independently of gifts and -other pious donations, the dowry of each nun, when she takes the veil, -amounts to three thousand dollars; and many females who have been -possessed of large sums have declared their whole property to have been -their dowry--thus preventing the possibility of a law-suit, and often -depriving, by this subterfuge, poor relatives from enjoying what they -had long hoped for at the death of the possessor. - -Nuns, as well as friars, have one year of probation, as novices, before -they can profess or take the veil, which seals their doom for life. When -a female chooses to become a nun she is usually dressed in her best -attire, and attended by a chosen company of friends, whom she regales at -her own house, or at that of some acquaintance; in the evening she goes -to the church of the nunnery, and is admitted into the lower choir by a -postern in the double gratings; she retires, but soon re-appears -dispossessed of her gay attire, and clothed in the religious habit of -the order, without either scapulary or veil, and then bids adieu to her -friends, who immediately return to their houses, whilst the nuns are -chaunting a welcome to their new sister. At the expiration of a year, -the novice is questioned as to the purity of her intentions, by the -Mother Abbess, or Prioress; and if she express a desire to profess, a -report is made to the Prelate of the order, who is the bishop, or his -delegate, or the provincial prelate of the monastic order; for some -nunneries are under the jurisdiction of the ordinary, or bishop, and -others under that of the regulars of their own order. The evening before -the day appointed for the solemn ceremony of taking the veil, the -prelate, accompanied by the chaplain of the nunnery, and the parents and -friends of the nun, goes to the gate or locutory of the nunnery, and the -novice is delivered to him by the Mother Abbess and community, in their -full habits of ceremony; she is then led to the church, when the prelate -seating himself, the chaplain reads to her the institute or laws and -regulations of the order; he questions her as to her own will, explains -to her the duty of the profession she is going to embrace, and warns her -not to be intimidated by threats, nor hallucinated by promises, but to -say whether by her own consent, free will, and choice she have -determined to become a sister of the order, and a professed spouse of -Christ, according to the spirit of the Church. If she answer in the -affirmative, she is re-conducted to the locutory, where she spends the -evening with her friends, or, if she desire it, she can go to the house -of her parents, or visit other religious houses. Early the next morning -the novice makes her private vows of chastity, poverty, obedience and -monastic seclusion, in the hands of the Mother Abbess, the whole -sisterhood being present. At a later hour the prelate and the -officiating priests attend the church, and high mass is celebrated; the -novice is now presented at the communion grating, where she receives the -sacrament from the prelate; she then retires, and the rules of the order -are again read to her, and if she still give her assent to them, she -kisses the rules and the missal. A funeral pall is spread on the floor -of the choir, on which the novice lies down, and is covered with -another; the knell for the dead is tolled by the nunnery bells, the -nuns holding funeral tapers in their hands, with their veils down, -chaunting a mournful dirge, after which a solemn requiem is performed by -the priests and the choir. The novice rises, assisted by the nuns, and -the prelate, going to the communion table, takes a small veil in his -hands, and chaunts the anthem, "Veni sponsa Christi." The novice -approaches the table, the veil is laid on her head, and a lighted taper -put into her hand, ornamented as a palm, after which she is crowned with -flowers. The Mother Abbess next presents her to each nun, whom she -salutes, and lastly the Abbess. She then bows to the prelate, priests, -and her friends, and retires in solemn procession, the whole community -chaunting the psalm, "Laudate Domini." - -Much has been said and written respecting nuns and nunneries, and most -unfeeling assertions have been made both with regard to the cause and -effect of taking the veil; but, from what I have heard and seen, these -assertions are generally as false as they are uncharitable; they are too -often the effusions of bigots, who endeavour to load with the vilest -epithets as well the cloistered nun, the devout catholic, and the pious -protestant, as the immoral libertine. They apply to themselves the -text, "he that is not for me, is against me," and every thing that -militates against their own peculiar doctrines must be wrong. I never -knew a nun who repented of her vows, and I have conversed with hundreds: -many have said that they doubted not but that happiness was to be found -without the walls, and discontent within, but that neither could be -attributed exclusively to their being found in or out of a nunnery. Let -those who would revile the conduct of their fellow creatures look to -their own; let those who pity, search at home for objects: they who -would amend others, should set the example. If we suppose that some of -the inmates of cloisters are the victims of tyranny, we should recollect -how many others are sacrificed at the shrine of avarice to the bond of -matrimony! for the vows at the altar are alike indissoluble, and their -effects are often far more distressing. - -The vows of a friar are similar to those of the nuns; but owing perhaps -to the door of the convent being as open as that of the choir, they are -not so religiously fulfilled. The friars may indeed be considered as a -nuisance, for they are generally formed of the dregs of society. When a -father knows not what to do with a profligate son, he will send him to a -convent, where having passed his year in the noviciate, he professes, -and relying on his convent as a home, he becomes a drone to society, a -burden to his order, and a disgrace to his own character. It was well -said, by Jovellanos, that "friars enter their convent without knowing -each other, live without loving one another, and die without bewailing -one another." I have nevertheless known many virtuous and learned men -among the hooded brethren, but rarely have I heard any one state, that -he did not regret having taken the solemn oath that bound him to the -cloister, and made him one of a fraternity which he could not avoid -disliking. It generally happens, that the respectable individuals who -assume a religious habit apply themselves to study, and by becoming -lecturers, or getting a degree of D. D. in the University, they escape -the drudgery of a hebdomadary, and take a seat in the chapter of the -order. - -The hospital of San Andres is appropriated to white people; it has -several large neat wards, with clean beds; these are placed in small -alcoves on each side the ward, and are so constructed, that in case of -necessity, another row of beds can be formed along the top of the -alcoves; it contains about six hundred beds, a number which can be -doubled. The wards are well ventilated from the roof, and are kept -wholesome. When a patient enters, he has a bed assigned him; his clothes -are taken away, deposited in a general wardrobe, and not returned to him -until orders are given by the physician or surgeon. The sick are not -allowed to have any money in their possession, nor are visitors -permitted to give them any thing, without the consent of one of the -major domos, or overseers. A good garden, called a botanic garden, -belongs to the hospital; also an amphitheatre, or dissecting room. The -college of San Fernando, built by the Viceroy Abascal, for the study of -medicine and surgery, adjoins this hospital, and here the students -practise. It has also a department for drugs, where all the -prescriptions are attended to by regular professors. The druggists, as -well as the physicians and surgeons, are subject to examination in the -university, and cannot practise without permission from the college of -physicians, to whose annual visits they are liable, for the purpose of -examining their drugs. No physician or surgeon is allowed to have drugs -at his own house, or to make up his own prescriptions: even the barbers, -who are phlebotomists, are examined by the board of surgeons. - -The hospital of San Bartolome is for negroes and other people of -colour; if they are free, they are received gratis, but if slaves, their -owners pay half a dollar a day for the time they remain. St. Ana is for -indians, and was founded by an indian lady, called Catalina Huanca. This -casica was very rich, and besides this pious establishment she left -large sums of money for other charitable uses; but her most -extraordinary bequest was a sum for forming and paying the body guard of -the Viceroy, both the halberdiers and the cavalry, consisting of a -hundred men. The hospital del Espiritu Santo is for sailors, and a -portion of the wages is deducted, called hospital money, from the pay of -every sailor who enters the port of Callao. San Pedro is part of the -convent bearing the same name, formerly belonging to the Jesuits, and -now occupied by the congregation of San Felipe Neri. This hospital is -for poor clergymen. San Pedro de Alcantara, and la Caridad, are both for -females, and San Lazaro for lepers. Particular care is taken in the -different hospitals, as well to the administration of medicine and -surgical operations, as to the diet, cleanliness, ventilation, and -comfort of the sick. - -Besides these hospitals, there are the convalescencies of Belen and San -Juan de Dios, under the management of the friars of the two orders. -More particular attention is paid here to the sick than in the -hospitals; any individual is received on paying half a dollar a day, or -through the recommendation of one of the benefactors. I was twice in San -Juan de Dios, and received every assistance and indulgence that I had a -right to expect. - -The college of Santo Toribio is a tridentine seminary, where young -gentlemen are educated principally for the church; four collegians -attend mass at the cathedral every morning, for the purpose of being -initiated into the ceremonies of their future professions. Their habit -is an almond coloured gown, very wide at the bottom, and buttoned round -the neck; when spread open its form is completely circular, having a -hole with a collar in the centre; this is called the _opa_. A piece of -pale blue cloth, about eight inches broad, is passed over one shoulder, -then folded on the breast, and the end thrown across the opposite -shoulder, the two ends hanging down behind the bottom of the opa. On the -left side of this cloth, called the beca, the royal arms are -embroidered. A square clerical cap or bonnet of black cloth is worn on -the head. This college bears the name of its founder, and is supported -by rents appertaining to it; there is also a subsidy paid annually by -each beneficed curate in the archbishopric, and a certain sum by each -collegian. - -The college of San Carlos is called the royal college; it was founded by -the Jesuits, under the title of San Martin, but after the extinction of -that order it was changed to San Carlos. The principal studies in this -college are a course of arts and law; but theology is also taught. The -dress is a full suit of black, a cocked hat, dress sword of gold or -gilt, and formerly the royal arms suspended at a button-hole on the left -side by a light blue ribbon. The college is capacious, having a chapel, -refectory, garden, baths, different disputing rooms, and a good library, -containing many prohibited French and other authors. San Carlos is -supported by a yearly stipend from the treasury, assisted by what the -collegians pay for their education. Lectures are delivered by -_pasantes_, or the head collegians, to the lower classes; for which they -receive a pecuniary reward, and wear as a distinguishing badge, a light -blue ribbon or scarf, crossing from the left shoulder to the right side, -to which the arms are suspended instead of the button-hole. - -In the college del Principe, young noble indian caciques are educated -for the church; their dress is a full suit of green, a crimson shoulder -ribbon and cocked hat. That of San Fernando, for medicine, has for dress -a full suit of blue, yellow buttons, the collar trimmed with gold lace, -and a cocked hat. - -All the secular colleges have a rector and vice-rector, who are secular -clergymen; some of the lecturers are also clergymen, but more commonly -collegians pasantes. There is a proviso in the synodal laws for -collegians from Santo Toribio and San Carlos; among those who receive -holy orders benefices are insured to a certain number. In what was the -palace of the Viceroy, is a nautical academy, where several young men -study astronomy, navigation, &c.: it has a good stock of instruments, -maps, and charts. Many of the maps are original, from surveys made at -different times, and which have not been published. - -The university stands in the _plasa de la inquisicion_. It is a handsome -building, containing several good halls, beside the public disputing -room, which is fitted up with desks and benches, tribunes, galleries, -&c.; a neat chapel, a small cloister, and an extensive library. The -rector enjoys a good salary, and has many perquisites; one is elected by -the professors every three years, and the one chosen is alternately a -secular priest and a layman. The professors' chairs are sinecures, for -the professors never lecture, and only attend on days of public -disputation, or when degrees are conferred. Degrees of bachelor and -master are granted by the rector, on paying the fees. That of doctor in -any faculty requires a public examination, and plurality of votes of the -examiners and professors in the faculty of the degree solicited. -Previous to the examination the rector holds a table of the points of -controversy; the candidate pricks into one of them, and is obliged to -defend this point on the following day, at the same hour. The discussion -is opened by the candidate with an harangue in Latin, which lasts an -hour, after which the point is discussed in forma scholastica by the -candidate and the examiners; this lasts another hour, when the rector -and professors retire, and vote the degree. On the following day the -candidate presents a thesis to the rector, who reads it, and challenges -the students who are present to dispute it. This act is generally opened -by the candidate with an elegant speech in Latin; after which he -supports his argument against the wranglers who may present themselves. -If the degree be voted him, he goes up to the rector, who places on his -head the bonnet, which bears in deep silk fringe from the centre the -distinguishing colour of the faculty, blue and white for divinity, red -for canons, green for jurisprudence or law, and yellow for medicine. The -young doctor takes his place on his proper bench, and is complimented by -the senior professors of the faculty; when the whole company adjourns to -a splendid collation prepared by the new brother of the bonnet and -fringe. - -This university, now under the title of San Marcos, was founded in 1549 -by a bull of Pius V. with the same privileges as those enjoyed by that -of Salamanca in Spain; it was, till 1576, in the hands of the Dominican -friars; but by an edict of Felipe III. it was placed under the royal -patronage, and built where it at present stands. It has produced many -great scientific characters, the portraits of several of whom adorn the -walls of the principal hall. Among the faculty, those whose talents are -most conspicuous are, in theology, Rodrigues, rector of San Carlos; in -law, Vivar, rector of the college of advocates; Unanue, president of the -college of physicians, _protomedico_, and director of San Fernando; -Valdes, president of the board of surgeons: (he is a man of colour, the -first who has taken the degree of doctor in the university); Parades, -professor of mathematics; and many others, who are famous in the pulpit, -the forum or the hospitals. - -In the same square are the holy tribunal, whence the plasa derives its -name, and the hospital of la Caridad: it is often called the plasa of -the three cardinal virtues--Faith, the inquisition; Hope, the -university; and Charity, the hospital. - -I shall now describe the inquisition as it was, "_bearing its blushing -honours thick upon it_," or rather, what I saw of it when summoned to -appear before that dread tribunal; and also what I saw of it after its -abolition by the Cortes. - -Having one day engaged in a dispute with Father Bustamante, a Dominican -friar, respecting the image of the Madonna of the Rosary, he finished -abruptly, by assuring me that I should hear of it again. On the same -evening I went to a billiard-room, where the Count de Montes de Oro was -playing. I observed him look at me, and then speak to some friends on -the opposite side of the table. I immediately recollected the threat of -Father Bustamante--I knew, too, that the count was alguazil mayor of the -inquisition. I passed him and nodded, when he immediately followed me -into the street. I told him that I supposed he had some message for me; -he asked my name, and then said that he had. I said I was aware of it, -and ready to attend at any moment. Considering for a short time, he -observed, "this is a matter of too serious a nature to be spoken of in -the street," and he went with me to my rooms. After some hesitation, his -lordship informed me that I must accompany him on the next morning to -the holy tribunal of the Faith; I answered that I was ready at any -moment; and I would have told him the whole affair, but, clapping his -hands to his ears, he exclaimed "no! for the love of God, not a word; I -am not an inquisitor; it does not become me to know the secrets of the -holy house," adding the old adage, "_del Rey y la inquisicion, -chiton_,--of the King and the inquisition, hush. I can only hope and -pray that you be as rancid a Christian as myself." He most solemnly -advised me to remain in my room, and neither see nor speak to any -one--to betake myself to prayer, and on no account whatever to let any -one know that he had anticipated the summons, because, said he, "that is -certainly contrary to the laws of the holy house." I relieved him from -his fears on this point, and assured him, that I should return with him -to the coffee-house, and that I would remain at home for him on the -following morning at nine o'clock. At the appointed hour, an under -alguazil came to my room, and told me that the alguazil mayor waited for -me at the corner of the next street. On meeting him there, he ordered -me not to speak to him, but to accompany him to the inquisition. I did -so, and saw the messenger and another person following us at a distance. -I appeared unconcerned until I had entered the porch after the count, -and the two followers had passed. The count now spoke to me, and asked -me if I were prepared; I told him I was: he then knocked at the inner -door, which was opened by the porter. Not a word was uttered. We sat -down on a bench for a few minutes, till the domiciliary returned with -the answer, that I must wait. The old count now retired, and looked, as -he thought, a long adieu; but said nothing. In a few minutes a beadle -beckoned me to follow him. I passed the first and second folding doors, -and arrived at the tribunal: it was small, but lofty, a scanty light -forcing its way through the grated windows near the roof. As I entered, -five Franciscan friars left the hall by the same door--their hoods were -hung over their faces--their arms folded--their hands hid in their -sleeves--and their cords round their necks. They appeared by their gait -to be young, and marched solemnly after their conductor, a grave old -friar, who had his hood over his face, but his cord round his waist, -indicating that he was not doing penance. I felt I know not how--I -looked upon them with pity, but could not help smiling, as the idea -rushed across my mind, that such a procession at midnight would have -disturbed a whole town in England, and raised the posse comitatus to lay -them. I turned my eyes to the dire triumvirate, seated on an elevated -part of the hall, under a canopy of green velvet edged with pale blue, a -crucifix of a natural size hanging behind them; a large table was placed -before them, covered and trimmed to match the canopy, and bearing two -green burning tapers, an inkstand, some books, and papers. Jovellanos -described the inquisition by saying it was composed of _un Santo Cristo, -dos candileros, y tres majderos_--one crucifix, two candlesticks, and -three blockheads. I knew the inquisitors--but how changed from what at -other times I had seen them! The puny, swarthy Abarca, in the centre, -scarcely half filling his chair of state--the fat monster Zalduegui on -his left, his corpulent paunch being oppressed by the arms of his chair, -and blowing through his nostrils like an over-fed porpoise--the fiscal, -Sobrino, on his right, knitting his black eyebrows, and striving to -produce in his unmeaning face a semblance of wisdom. A secretary stood -at each end of the table; one of them bad me to approach, which I did, -by ascending three steps, which brought me on a level with the -above-described trinity of harpies. A small wooden stool was placed for -me, and they nodded to me to sit down; I nodded in return, and complied. - -The fiscal now asked me, in a solemn tone, if I knew why I had been -summoned to attend at this holy tribunal? I answered that I did, and was -going to proceed, when he hissed for me to be silent. He informed me, -that I must swear to the truth of what I should relate. I told him that -I would _not_ swear; for, as I was a foreigner, he was not sure that I -was a catholic; it was therefore unnecessary for me to take that oath -which, perhaps, would not bind me to speak the truth. At this time a few -mysterious nods passed between the fiscal and the chief inquisitor, and -I was again asked, whether I would speak the truth: I answered, yes. The -matter at last was broached; I was asked if I knew the reverend father -Bustamante? I replied, "I know _friar_ Bustamante, I have often met him -in coffee houses; but I suppose the reverend father you mean is some -grave personage, who would not enter such places." "Had you any -conversation with father Bustamante, touching matters of religion?" "No, -but touching matters of superstition, I had." "Such things are not to -be spoken of in coffee houses," said Zalduegui. "No," I rejoined, "I -told father Bustamante the same thing." "But you ought to have been -silent," replied he. "Yes," said I, "and be barked at by a _friar_." -Zalduegui coloured, and asked me what I meant by laying such a stress on -the word friar. "Any thing," said I, "just as you choose to take it." -After questions and answers of this kind, for more than an hour, Abarca -rang a small bell; the beadle entered, and I was ordered to retire. In a -short time I was again called in, and directed to wait on Sobrino the -following morning at eight o'clock, at his house: I did so, and -breakfasted with him.[6] He advised me in future to avoid all religious -disputes, and particularly with persons I did not know, adding, "I -requested an interview, because on the seat of judgment I could not -speak in this manner. You must know," said he, "that you are here -subject to the tribunal of the Faith, you, as well as all men who live -in the dominions of his Catholic Majesty; you must, therefore, shape -your course accordingly." Saying this he retired, and left me alone to -find my way out of the house, which I immediately did. In the evening I -went to a coffee house, where I saw my friend, friar Bustamante; he -blushed, but with double civility nodded, and pointed to a seat at the -table at which he was sitting. I shrugged my shoulders, and nodded -significantly, perhaps sneeringly; he took the hint, and left the room. -Soon afterwards I met the old Count de Montes de Oro, who looked, -hesitated, and in a short time passed me, caught my hand, which he -squeezed, but spoke not a word. - -The act of the Cortes of Spain which abolished the inquisition, and -which, during its discussion, produced many excellent though over-heated -speeches, was published in Lima just after the above occurrence. The -Señora Doña Gregoria Gainsa, lady of Colonel Gainsa, informed me that -she and some friends had obtained permission of the Viceroy Abascal to -visit the ex-tribunal; and she invited me to accompany them on the -following day, after dinner. I attended, and we went to visit the -monster, as they now dared to call it. The doors of the hall being -opened, many entered who were not invited, and seeing nothing in a -posture of defence, the first victims to our fury were the table and -chairs: these were soon demolished; after which some persons laid hold -of the velvet curtains of the canopy, and dragged them so forcibly, that -canopy and crucifix came down with a horrid crash. The crucifix was -rescued from the ruins of inquisitorial state, and its head discovered -to be moveable. A ladder was found to have been secreted behind the -canopy, and thus the whole mystery of this miraculous image became -explainable and explained:--a man was concealed on the ladder, by the -curtains of the canopy, and by introducing his hand through a hole, he -moved the head, so as to make it nod consent, or shake dissent. In how -many instances may appeal to this imposture have caused an innocent man -to own himself guilty of crimes he never dreamt of! Overawed by fear, -and condemned, as was believed, by a miracle, falsehood would supply the -place of truth, and innocence, if timid, confess itself sinful. Every -one was now exasperated with rage, and "there are yet victims in the -cells," was universally murmured. "A search! a search!" was the cry, and -the door leading to the interior was quickly broken through. The next we -found was called _del secreto_; the word secret stimulated curiosity, -and the door was instantly burst open. It led to the archives. Here were -heaped, upon shelves, papers, containing the written cases of those who -had been accused or tried; and here I read the name of many a friend, -who little imagined that his conduct had been scrutinized by the holy -tribunal, or that his name had been recorded in so awful a place. Some -who were present discovered their own names on the rack, and pocketed -the papers. I put aside fifteen cases, and took them home with me; but -they were not of great importance. Four for blasphemy bore a sentence, -which was three months' seclusion in a convent, a general confession, -and different penances--all secret. The others were accusations of -friars, _solicitantes in confesione_, two of whom I knew, and though -some danger attended the disclosure, I told them afterwards what I had -seen. Prohibited books in abundance were in the room, and many found -future owners. To our great surprise we here met with a quantity of -printed cotton handkerchiefs. These alas! had incurred the displeasure -of the inquisition, because a figure of religion, holding a chalice in -one hand and a cross in the other was stamped in the centre: placed -there perhaps by some unwary manufacturer, who thought such devout -insignia would insure purchasers, but who forgot the heinousness of -blowing the nose or spitting upon the cross. To prevent such a crime -this religious tribunal had taken the wares by wholesale, omitting to -pay their value to the owner, who might consider himself fortunate in -not having his shop removed to the sacred house. Leaving this room we -forced our way into another, which to our astonishment and indignation -was that of torture! In the centre stood a strong table, about eight -feet long and seven feet broad; at one end of which was an iron collar, -opening in the middle horizontally, for the reception of the neck of the -victim; on each side of the collar were also thick straps with buckles, -for enclosing the arms near to the body; and on the sides of the table -were leather straps with buckles for the wrists, connected with cords -under the table, made fast to the axle of an horizontal wheel; at the -other end were two more straps for the ancles with ropes similarly fixed -to the wheel. Thus it was obvious, that a human being might be extended -on the table, and, by turning the wheel, might be stretched in both -directions at the same time, without any risk of hanging, for that -effect was prevented by the two straps under his arms, close to the -body; but almost every joint might be dislocated. After we had -discovered the diabolical use of this piece of machinery, every one -shuddered, and involuntarily looked towards the door, as if -apprehensive that it would close upon him. At first curses were -muttered, but they were soon changed into loud imprecations against the -inventors and practisers of such torments; and blessings were showered -on the Cortes for having abolished this tribunal of arch tyranny. We -next examined a vertical pillory, placed against the wall; it had one -large and two smaller holes; on opening it, by lifting up the one half, -we perceived apertures in the wall, and the purpose of the machine was -soon ascertained. An offender having his neck and wrists secured in the -holes of the pillory, and his head and hands hidden in the wall, could -be flogged by the lay brothers of St. Dominick without being known by -them; and thus any accidental discovery was avoided. Scourges of -different materials were hanging on the wall; some of knotted cord, not -a few of which were hardened with blood; others were of wire chain, with -points and rowels, like those of spurs; these too were clotted with -blood. We also found tormentors, made of netted wire, the points of -every mesh projecting about one-eighth of an inch inward, the outside -being covered with leather, and having strings to tie them on. Some of -these tormentors were of a sufficient size for the waist, others for -the thighs, the legs and arms. The walls were likewise adorned with -shirts of horse hair, which could not be considered as a very -comfortable habit after a severe flagellation; with human bones, having -a string at each end, to gag those who made too free a use of their -tongues; and with nippers, made of cane, for the same purpose. These -nippers consisted of two slips of cane, tied at the ends; by opening in -the middle when they were put into the mouth, and fastened behind the -head, in the same manner as the bones, they pressed forcibly upon the -tongue. In a drawer were a great many finger screws; they were small -semicircular pieces of iron, in the form of crescents, having a screw at -one end, so that they could be fixed on the fingers, and screwed to any -degree, even till the nails were crushed and the bones broken. On -viewing these implements of torture, who could find an excuse for the -monsters who would use them to establish the faith which was taught, by -precept and example, by the mild, the meek, the holy Jesus! May he who -would not curse them in the bitterness of wrath fall into their -merciless hands! The rack and the pillory were soon demolished; for such -was the fury of more than a hundred persons who had gained admittance, -that had they been constructed of iron they could not have resisted the -violence and determination of their assailants. In one corner stood a -wooden horse, painted white: it was conceived to be another instrument -of torture, and instantly broken to pieces; but I was afterwards -informed, that a victim of the inquisition, who had been burnt at the -stake, was subsequently declared innocent of the charges preferred -against him, and as an atonement for his death, his innocence was -publicly announced, and his effigy, dressed in white, and mounted on -this horse, was paraded about the streets of Lima. Some said that the -individual suffered in Lima, others, that he suffered in Spain, and that -by a decree of the inquisitor-general this farce was performed in every -part of the Spanish dominions where a tribunal existed. We proceeded to -the cells, but found them all open and empty: they were small, but not -uncomfortable as places of confinement. Some had a small yard attached; -others, more solitary, had none. The last person known to have been -confined was a naval officer, an Andalusian, who was exiled in 1812 to -Boca Chica. - -Having examined every corner of this mysterious prison-house, we retired -in the evening, taking with us books, papers, scourges, tormentors, -&c., many of which were distributed at the door, particularly several -pieces of the irreligious handkerchiefs. The following morning the -archbishop went to the cathedral, and declared all those persons -excommunicated, _vel participantes_, who had taken and should retain in -their possession any thing that had belonged to, or had been found in -the ex-tribunal of the inquisition. In consequence of this declaration, -many delivered up what they had taken; but with me the case was -different--I kept what I had got, in defiance of _flamines infernorum_ -denounced by his grace against the _renitentes_ and _retinentes_. - -It is said, that when Castel-forte was Viceroy in Lima, he was summoned -by the inquisition, and attended accordingly. Taking with him to the -door his body-guard, a company of infantry, and two pieces of artillery, -he entered, and laying his watch on the table, told the inquisitors, -that if their business were not despatched in one hour, the house would -be battered down about their ears, for such were the orders he had left -with the commanding officer at the gate. This was quite sufficient; the -inquisitors rose, and accompanied him to the door, too happy when they -beheld the backs of his excellency and his escort. - -During my residence in Lima, I saw two men publicly disgraced by the -inquisition; the one for having celebrated mass without having been -ordained, and the other for soothsaying and witchcraft. They were placed -in the chapel of the tribunal at an early hour in the morning, each -dressed in a _sambenito_, a short loose tunic, covered with ridiculous -paintings of snakes, bats, toads, flames, &c. The pseudo priest had a -mitre of feathers placed on his head, the other a crown of the same. -They stood in the centre of the chapel, each holding a green taper in -his hand. At nine o'clock one of the secretaries ascended the pulpit, -and read the cause for which they were punished. The poor mass-sayer -appeared very penitent, but the old fortune-teller, when some of his -tricks were related, burst into a loud laugh, in which he was joined by -most of the people present. Two mules were brought to the door, and the -two culprits were tied on their backs, having their faces towards the -tails. The procession then began to move: first several alguazils, with -the Count de Montes de Oro at their head; next the mules, led by the -common hangman; while the inquisitors, in their state coaches, brought -up the rear. Two friars of the order of St. Dominick carried on each -side the coaches large branches of palm. In this order they marched to -St. Dominick's church, and were received at the door by the provincial -prelate and community: the culprits were placed in the centre of the -church, and the same papers read from the pulpit, after which the men -were sentenced to serve in the hospitals during the will of the -inquisitors. - -To those who visit Lima, it may perhaps be interesting to know, that the -stake at which the unfortunate victims of inquisitorial tyranny were -burnt was near the ground on which the _plasa de toros_, bull circus, -now stands; and that at the foot of the bridge, at the door of the -church, _de los desamparados_, of the abandoned, they were delivered to -the ordinary ministers of justice for execution. - -It is well known, that many exaggerated accounts have been given of the -inquisition, tending more to create doubts, than to establish the truth -of the inhuman proceedings of that tribunal. I have stated this fact -elsewhere, not with the view of palliating the proceedings, but to put -readers on their guard, neither to believe nor disbelieve all that is -written. That enough may be said to make humanity shudder, and still -more remain untold, is proved by what I saw in the Pandemonium of Lima. -But the inquisitors knew too well, that those who had undergone the -pains and torments which they inflicted would be apt to divulge them, so -that it was their interest either to be sparing of torture, or to -prevent a discovery by sacrificing the victim. - -When the beloved Ferdinand abolished the Cortes and the constitution in -1812 he restored the inquisition, and often in Madrid personally -presided at its sessions. This was not however sufficient to encourage -its ministers to proceed with that rigour they had been wont to -exercise; they had been once dethroned, and were not certain of their -own stability. In Lima the monsters were tame, nay harmless; but this -proceeded from fear. No doubt Ferdinand, like his predecessor, Pedro, -and the inquisitors, like their founder, St. Dominick, wished for the -arrival of a time when they could repeat, "nothing rejoices my soul so -much as to hear the bones of heretics crackling at the stake." To the -credit of the new governments in South America, the inquisition has been -every where abolished, and all spiritual jurisdiction re-invested in the -bishops. - -The _casa de los huerfanos_, foundling hospital, is an establishment -that does honour to its founder, who was an apothecary. All white -children are received by tapping at a small revolving window, and -placing the child on it when it turns. They are brought up and educated, -the males to the age of fourteen, when they are apprenticed to some -trade, and according to the rules of the college of medicine, two are -received there every two years. The females have a dowry of one thousand -dollars each on their marriage, and if they become nuns, there is -another charitable institution, founded by the same individual, to which -they apply, and the annual dowries, being five of one thousand dollars -each, are decided by chance, the names of the solicitors being put into -a vase, and drawn in a manner similar to a lottery. Charles IV. declared -all foundlings to be noble, for the purpose of their being eligible to -any situation. Before the establishment of the foundling hospital, many -children were laid at the doors of the wealthy inhabitants, and they -were always taken care of. In small towns this practice still occurs, -but they are more frequently exposed near the huts of the indians, or -slaves; and as the exposed are generally, or I may say always white, -they are received, and their foster-parents often treat them with -greater kindness than their own children, shewing a kind of predilection -for the foundlings. Civilized whites may vaunt of their pious -establishments, but let them turn their eyes to the rude hut of an -indian, robbed of his country and of his native privileges; or to that -of a negro, deprived of the blessings of liberty by the overwhelming -power of white men, and behold a female mingling her tears with those of -a white child, because she is unable to provide for it what by whites -she herself has lost--food, clothing and education! But human nature, -not civilized humanity, is the temple of piety. - -The weekly lottery in Lima is an excellent establishment; the tickets -cost one real one-eighth of a dollar each; the prizes are, one of a -thousand dollars, two of five hundred, and the remainder is divided into -smaller sums. There are but few individuals, however poor they may be, -who cannot purchase one or two tickets weekly, and many slaves have -procured their manumission by means of this lottery. I was passing the -fountain belonging to the convent of San Juan de Dios, when two negroes -were disagreeing about the water; an old friar persuaded them to be -quiet and friendly; a seller of lottery tickets happened to pass at the -time, and the two negroes joined in buying a ticket, which an hour -afterwards was drawn a prize of a thousand dollars. In the afternoon the -negroes were free, having purchased their liberty; for which piece of -good fortune the old friar put in his claim, as being the principal -mover. - -According to the Spanish laws, a master is obliged to sign the deed of -manumission, if the slave can emancipate himself at a fair valuation; -and if the master refuse, the slave may deposit the sum in the public -treasury, and the receipt is a sufficient voucher for his liberty. - -The Mint was established in Lima in 1565; in 1570 it was removed to -Potosi, but re-established in Lima in 1603. It is a large building, -containing all the necessary offices. The machinery was formerly worked -by mules, eighty being daily employed, till the year 1817, when Don -Pedro Abadia being the contractor for the coinage, Mr. Trevethick -directed the erection of a water wheel, which caused a great saving of -expense. The assaying, melting, rolling, cutting, weighing, stamping and -milling, are all carried on in different apartments by black men, -principally slaves; but the different offices of superintendance are -filled by white men. The whole is under the direction of an intendant, -and subaltern officers. The coinage is contracted for, and sold to the -highest bidder, who is allowed a per centage on all the gold and silver -that is coined, which in the year 1805 was as follows:-- - - - Gold 501,287 value in dollars. - Silver 8,047,623 do. do. - - -Lima owes to the Viceroy Abascal, Marquis de la Concordia, the erection -of a place for the interment of all those who die in the city and -suburbs; it is called the pantheon. Situated on the outside of the -walls, it is sufficiently large to contain all the dead bodies for six -years, without removal; when this becomes necessary, the bones are taken -out of the niches, and placed in the osariums. Many of the rich families -have purchased allotments for family vaults, having their names -inscribed above. The building is a square enclosure, divided into -several sections; in the wall are niches, each sufficient to hold a -corpse, and the divisions are also formed by double rows of niches built -one above another, some of them eight stories high, the fronts being -open. The walks are planted with many aromatics and evergreens. In the -centre is a small chapel, or rather altar, with a roof: its form is -octagonal, so that eight priests can celebrate mass at the same time. -The corpse is put into the niche with the feet foremost, if in a coffin, -which seldom happens, except among the richer classes, the lid is -removed, and a quantity of unslaked lime being thrown on each body, its -decay is very rapid. For the conveyance of the dead several hearses of -different descriptions are provided, belonging to the pantheon, and -they are not permitted to traverse the streets after twelve o'clock in -the day. - -Before the establishment of this cemetery, all the dead were buried in -the churches, or rather, placed in vaults, many of which had wooden -trap-doors, opening in the floors; and notwithstanding the plentiful use -of lime, the stench and other disgusting effects were sometimes almost -insufferable. When the first nun was to be carried to the pantheon, -great opposition was made by the sisterhood; but the Viceroy sent a file -of soldiers, and enforced the interment of the corpse in the general -cemetery. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[6] The lenity shown in this case, by the inquisition, might probably be -owing to the expectation that the tribunal would shortly be abolished by -the Cortes. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - The Population of Lima....Remarks....Table of Castes....The - Qualifications of Creoles....Population and Division....Spaniards - ....Creoles, White....Costume....Indians....African Negroes.... - Their Cofradias, and royal Personages....Queen Rosa....Creole - Negroes....Mestiso....Mulattos....Zambos....Chinos...._Quarterones - and Quinterones_....Theatre....Bull Circus....Royal Cockpit.... - Alamedas....Bathing Places....Piazzas _Amancaes_....Elevation and - Oration Bells....Processions of Corpus Christi, Santa Rosa, San - Francisco, and Santo Domingo....Publication of Bulls....Ceremonies - on the Arrival of a Viceroy. - - -There are few cities in the world whose population exhibits a greater -variety of shade or tint of countenance than Lima, or, perhaps, a -greater contrast of intellectual faculty, if the rules established by -physiognomists may be relied on. But these arbiters of physiognomy have -been white men, and there appears to be a considerable portion of -egotism attached to their opinions. They have not only erected their own -tribunal, and instituted their own code of laws, but they have presided, -judged, and sentenced in favour of themselves. By giving to the facial -line or indicator of talent and genius a particular direction, the -European white has been able to place himself at the head, and to -degrade the black, or negro of Africa, by placing him at the bottom of -the list. Probably the success of the Europeans in their wars and -conquests, and in their advancement in the arts and sciences, may give -considerable support to this classification. By drawing an horizontal -line that shall touch the base of the cranium, and intersecting it by -another drawn from the forehead and touching the extremity of the upper -lip, the statuaries have found the supposed angle of human perfection. -The Greeks fixed this angle at 100°; the Romans at 95°; and according to -this rule, the European face varies between 80° and 90°; the Asiatic -between 75° and 80°; the American, having the forehead more flattened, -between 70° and 75°; and, lastly, the Negro between 60° and 70°. By this -mode of judging, we find the European at the head, and the rude -semi-brutal negro at the bottom. But how disconcerted the lovers of this -criterion must feel, if any credit can be given to what has been -asserted of the Egyptians, the founders and promoters of the arts and -sciences. Colonies from Egypt and the east, led by Pelasgus, Cecrops, -Cadmus, &c., were the tutors of the Greeks, whom they found on their -arrival more ignorant than Columbus, Cortes and Pizarro found the -Americans, at the discovery and conquest of their country. Yet -Herodotus, l. 11, p. 150, says, that the Egyptians were black, with -woolly, curled black hair; and Blumenbach asserts, that having dissected -several Egyptian mummies, he observed that they belonged to the negro -race, from their elevated pomulos, thick lips, and large flat noses. The -Copts also, who are descendants of the Egyptians, have the aspect of -mulattos, and appear to belong to the negro race. - -I have repeatedly observed, that a negro born in Peru of African parents -shews a greater development of the human faculties than is exhibited by -either of his parents; nay, even his corporeal agility appears to have -increased, and certainly his share of civilized vices is augmented; yet -I cannot suppose that these proceed from any other source than an -imitation of examples placed before him, without any change in the -facial angle! - -For an examination of the influence of the configuration of the human -face, or of its colour, on the intellectual faculties, no place is more -_à propos_ than Lima; and perhaps a few remarks upon this subject will -be acceptable to those who feel themselves interested in such -speculations. - -The annexed table shews the mixture of the different castes, under their -common or distinguishing names. - - ----------+-----------+-------------+------------------------------------ -FATHER. | MOTHER. | CHILDREN. | COLOUR. ----------+-----------+-------------+------------------------------------ -European | European | Creole | White. -Creole | Creole | Creole | White. -White | Indian | Mestiso | 6/8 White, 2/8 Indian--Fair. -Indian | White | Mestiso | 4/8 White, 4/8 Indian. -White | Mestiso | Creole | White--often very Fair. -Mestiso | White | Creole | White--but rather Sallow. -Mestiso | Mestiso | Creole | Sallow--often light Hair. -White | Negro | Mulatto | 7/8 White, 1/8 Negro--often Fair. -Negro | White | Zambo | 4/8 White, 4/8 Negro--dark copper. -White | Mulatto | Quarteron | 6/8 White, 2/8 Negro--Fair. -Mulatto | White | Mulatto | 5/8 White, 3/8 Negro--Tawny. -White | Quarteron| Quinteron | 7/8 White, 1/8 Negro--very Fair. -Quarteron| White | Quarteron | 6/8 White, 2/8 Negro--Tawny. -White | Quinteron| Creole | White--light Eyes, fair Hair. -Negro | Indian | Chino | 4/8 Negro, 4/8 Indian. -Indian | Negro | Chino | 2/8 Negro, 6/8 Indian. -Negro | Mulatto | Zambo | 5/8 Negro, 3/8 White. -Mulatto | Negro | Zambo | 4/8 Negro, 4/8 White. -Negro | Zambo | Zambo | 15/16 Negro, 1/16 White--Dark. -Zambo | Negro | Zambo | 7/8 Negro, 1/8 White. -Negro | Chino | Zambo-chino| 15/16 Negro, 1/16 Indian. -Chino | Negro | Zambo-chino| 7/8 Negro, 1/8 Indian. -Negro | Negro | Negro | - - -This table, which I have endeavoured to make as correct as possible, -from personal observation, must be considered as general, and not -including particular cases. I have classed the colours according to -their appearance, not according to the mixture of the castes, because I -have always remarked, that a child receives more of the colour of the -father than of the mother. - -It may be correct to state, that the creoles from either European or -creole parents, are endowed with more open generosity than the -Spaniards, and that they are of a more active and penetrating genius, -but not so constant in their pursuits. Much has been said against the -creoles, or natives of the colonies by those of the parent states; their -descriptions, however, are rather accordant with their wishes than the -real character of the people whom they undertake to pourtray. Writers -ought not to sully their pages either by affirming untruths or uttering -biassed opinions. De Pauw says, "that all the American races are of a -degenerated and inferior order;" this is undoubtedly false, for I have -known several individuals who have borne down the restrictions of -colonial law, and become eminent both in the arts and sciences: Mexia -eclipsed many of the most famous Spanish orators in the late Cortes; and -Morales was elected president of the Regency. It is well known also, -that the contest in the colonies, where the natives have fought for and -gained their independence, brought to light the talent and genius of -many both in the cabinet and in the field, whose names would have -remained unknown, had not their abilities been thus called into action. -The coarse and foul caricature of De Pauw, may be contrasted with the -over-coloured picture of M. de Bercey, and a medium I think would form -a correct outline. "Those whom we are accustomed to call barbarians and -savages are infinitely less entitled to these epithets than ourselves, -notwithstanding the refinement and civilization we boast. Equally, if -not more exempted from prejudice, the Americans neither create -factitious wants, nor seek imaginary sources of happiness." I have -observed the young men in the colleges of Lima, as well as in other -cities of South America, and I must affirm, that their minds are stored -with both just and clear ideas; and surely these are the principal -indications of good taste, and the characteristics of true genius. But -several causes have contributed to damp the career of literature; among -others we may reckon a scanty supply of books, a total want of -philosophical instruments, the restrictions of the inquisition, and the -prohibitory laws. Learning has indeed hitherto been discountenanced, for -when some of the collegians of San Carlos harangued the Viceroy Gil de -Lemos, he inquired of the rector, what sciences were taught in the -college, and being briefly informed, he returned "tu, tu, tu, let them -learn to read, write, and say their prayers, for this is as much as any -American ought to know!" The college _del Principe_ has produced many -indians who have shone both in the pulpit and at the bar; and among the -negroes and the mixed castes, several individuals of merit, both in -medicine and surgery, have been distinguished. Many also exist who, if -they have not been conspicuous in any department of the sciences, -undoubtedly owe their failure to the Spanish colonial laws, which have -shut all preferments against them. Yet who can read the harangues of -Colocolo to the Araucanian senate, without declaring them to be as -worthy of the poetical pen of Ercilla, as those of Nestor were of the -pen of Homer? - -Robertson states the population of Lima in 1764 at 54,000; but in 1810 -it was estimated at 87,000, at which time the deputies of the Cortes -were elected. Of this number about 20,000 are whites, the remainder -negroes, indians, and mixed breeds, or castes. I shall briefly -particularize the most striking features in the population, according to -my own observations. - -Among the inhabitants of this city, there are sixty-three noblemen, who -enjoy titles either of count or marquis, the greater part of whom are -natives of America, and about forty noblemen, or _mayorasgos_, without -titles; a number of knights of the different Spanish orders of -Catalrava, Alcantara, Santiago, Malta, and Charles III. Many of the -nobility are descendants of the conquerors. The most ancient families -are those of Villafuerte (marquis), Lurigancho (count), and Montemira -(marquis). One of the families in Lima traces its descent with -undeniable certainty from the Incas. Ampuero the founder married at the -time of the conquest a _coya_, or princess, sister to Atabalipa, and the -Kings of Spain granted at different times many distinguishing -prerogatives and honours to this family, from which the marquis of -Montemira is now the lineal descendant. The manners of the nobility are -courteous in the extreme, and their complaisance and affability to -strangers know no limits; their general conduct also seems to be as free -from haughtiness as from flattery, and their politeness, candour and -magnificence must charm every stranger who visits them. These qualities -were particularly shewn to the officers of several of H. B. M. ships of -war who were at Lima during the time I resided there. - -Lima is the birth-place of the only person in the Spanish colonies who -has been canonized by the Roman church: Santa Rosa de Santa Maria; she -is the patroness of Peru, and her festival is celebrated with great -solemnity. It is said by some that she foretold the independence of her -country, asserting, that after the domination of the Kings of Spain had -lasted as long as that of the Incas, the sceptre would drop from their -hands. This prophecy was printed in the first edition of her life in -1662, but was expunged from all the succeeding ones. - -Saint Thoribius de Mogroviejo, archbishop, and St. Francis Solano, of -the order of Franciscans, flourished here, but both were natives of -Spain. - -This city has also produced many other persons of virtuous and literary -fame: the most conspicuous among whom are-- - - - The venerable father Francisco del Castillo - The venerable Fray Martin de Porras } - The venerable Fray Juan Masias } Dominicans - The venerable Fray Vicente Vernedo } - The venerable Fray Pedro Urraca } - The venerable Fray Gonsalo Dias } Mercedarias - The venerable Fray Juan de Zalasar } - The venerable Fray Juan de Vargas } Martyred in Paraguay - The venerable Fray Juan de Albarran } - Don Pedro de la Reyna Maldonado, a celebrated author - Don Martin del Barco Zentenera, historian - Don Pedro Peralta Bernueva, mathematician - Don Jose, marquis of Vallumbrosa, a very learned man - Don Diego Baños y Sotomayor, chaplain of honour to the King - Don Alonzo, count of San Donas, ambassador of Spain to the French - court, in the reign of Felipe IV. - Don Fernando, marquis of Surco, lieutenant-general, chamberlain and - tutor to Don Felipe, duke of Parma - Don Miguel Nuñes de Roxas, of the council of orders, private judge - of confiscations, in the war of succession - Don Jose Baquijano, of the council of Indies, in the reign of - Charles IV. and Fernando VII. - Don Tomas de Salasar, author of "Interpretaciones de las Leyes de - Indias." - Don Lope de Armendaris, marquis of Cadreita, Viceroy of Nueva - España. - - -Besides these and several other eminent persons, Lima has given birth to -six archbishops, three of whom were conventual priests; and to fifty-two -bishops, twenty-five of whom were regulars of the different conventual -orders. - -The Spaniard who arrived at Lima brought with him either some commission -from the government of Spain, or an intention of residing in the country -for the purpose of gain. Of the first class, however low the appointment -might be, the individual conducted himself towards the natives with a -haughty superiority, which to an impartial spectator was truly -disgusting; he assumed the Don if he excused the Señor, and was never -addressed without one or both of these appendages to his name; indeed -_el Señor Don_ was more common in the streets of Lima, than at the court -of Madrid. The second class often consisted of sailors, who ran away -from their ships at Callao, and got places as servants in a _pulperia_ -(a shop where spirits, wines, spices, sugar, and all common place -articles are sold), a bakehouse, or a farm. If industrious, they soon -obtained as much as was necessary to establish themselves, and many -amassed considerable fortunes, married advantageously, and remained in -the country; knowing full well, that in their own they would neither be -admitted into such society as they enjoyed here, nor be treated with -that deference to which they had become habituated. All this would be -excusable enough, if the beauty, riches, and comforts of Spain--its -learned societies, noble families, and enlightened population, were not -the universal topic of their conversation and their universal song of -praise. I have seen many of this class who, having been taught to read -and write in America, and acquired riches, have purchased an order of -knighthood! for although it was pretended, that nobility of descent must -be proved before any of the military orders could be obtained, yet a -_Spaniard_ has purchased dispensation, and thus laid the foundation of a -_noble_ family. - -All Spaniards in America fancied themselves to belong to a race of -beings far superior to those among whom they resided. I have frequently -heard them say, that they should love their children with greater ardour -if they had been born in Europe; and during the struggle in different -parts of the colonies between the royalists and the patriots, I have -known more than one Spaniard assert, that if he thought his children -would be insurgents he would murder them in their beds. A Spaniard would -solicit countrymen of his own to marry his daughters, preferring these -without any trade or fortune, to a creole possessed of both; indeed they -had one powerful inducement to make this election; the Spaniard would be -more likely to procure riches; and, generally speaking, they considered -nothing else worthy their attention, thus in cases of matrimony, the -inclinations of the daughters were not often consulted. The Spaniards -appeared to form a separate society, not only in their own houses and in -the public walks, but even in the coffee houses, where the creoles were -seldom seen at the same table. This visible antipathy was carried to -such an extent, after the beginning of the dissensions, that several -Spaniards, although some of them had children born in Lima of creole -mothers, formed an agreement, and bound themselves by an oath and fine, -not to take any native of the country into their employ. This -determination became public in the city, and, after the patriot troops -entered, was the cause of the most severe insults to its authors. It is -well known, however, that in a reverse of fortune, no man is more -docile or more servile than a Spaniard, who will, according to his own -adage, _besar la mano que quisiera ver cortada_--kiss the hand he would -wish to see cut off. - -A creole of Lima in many respects partakes of the character of an -Andalusian; he is lively, generous, and careless of to-morrow; fond of -dress and variety, slow to revenge injuries, and willing to forget them. -Of all his vices, dissipation is certainly the greatest: his -conversation is quick and pointed--that of the fair sex is extremely gay -and witty, giving them an open frankness, which some foreigners have -been pleased to term levity, or something a little more dishonourable, -attaching the epithet immoral to their general character--an imputation -they may deserve, if prudery and hypocrisy be the necessary companions -of virtue; but they certainly deserve it not, if benevolence, -confidence, unsuspecting conviviality, and honest intention, be the true -characteristics of morality. The creoles are generally kind and good -parents, very affectionate and indulgent to their families; and this -conduct, with few exceptions, insures the love, respect, and gratitude -of their children. I have often heard a creole ask his son, "Who am I?" -and receive the endearing answer, "my _Father_ and my _Friend_." It -frequently happens, through vanity or weakness, that a creole mother -teaches her daughters to call her sister, which may be construed into -the desire of not wishing to be considered old; but if this really be a -crime, in what part of the world are females innocent? I have no -hesitation in asserting, that any impartial person who shall reside long -enough among South Americans to become acquainted with their domestic -manners, will declare, that conjugal and paternal affection, filial -piety, beneficence, generosity, good nature and hospitality, are the -inmates of almost every house. I have no doubt, too, that these virtues -will continue here, until civilization and refinement shall drive them -from their abode in the new world, to make room for etiquette, -formality, becoming pride, prudery and hypocrisy from the old. Then, the -children of the first families in Lima (whom I have often seen rise from -the table, and carry a plateful of food to a poor protegée beggar, -seated in the patio or under the corridor, wait and chat with the little -miserable till it had finished, and return to the table) will look on -such objects with disdain, because mamma has subscribed a competent sum -to a charitable institution, and made that sum known to the world -through the medium of the newspapers!--I cannot avoid fearing that this -modern improvement will supersede their own pure, but almost antiquated -customs. - -This picture may appear to some highly coloured; but I speak from -experience, and could relate innumerable instances of the practice of -all the social virtues which I have mentioned: sufficient, I am sure, to -convince the most hardened sceptic. I arrived at Lima a prisoner, -pennyless, and, as I thought, friendless; but in this I was deceived; I -owe to persons whom I had never seen, and of whose existence I was then -ignorant, such friendship, kindness, and pecuniary relief while in -prison, and generous and kind protection afterwards, as I hope will -never be eradicated from my bosom; and yet I trust, that I neither do, -nor ever can, attribute to the creoles virtues which they do not -possess: it is my duty, as an author, to speak the truth, however my -gratitude and affection might incline me to conceal their failings. - -Gambling is carried on to a great extent in Lima, but much more in the -higher circles than in the lower. No public gaming houses are permitted -by the government, and the police officers are on the alert wherever a -house is suspected; but private parties are very common, particularly -at the country houses of the nobility, and at the bathing places of -Miraflores, Chorrillos and Lurin. The tables, although in the houses of -noblemen, are free to all--the master and the slave, the marquis, the -count, the mechanic, and the pedlar, mix indiscriminately. This vice is -generally confined to the men; but some females now and then join in -these fashionable amusements. - -Having observed, that the female creoles are kind mothers, it is -scarcely necessary to say, that adultery is rare. One would think that -the exclamation of the elder Cato to some young Romans was here -observed: "courage, my friends, go and see the girls, but do not corrupt -the married women." Concubinage is common, or perhaps only more public -than in Europe, where civilization appears to have established the law, -that to sin in secret is not to sin at all. It is true, that scandal -often aggravates the crime, which is certainly mollified by the sincere -regard which the father generally entertains for his natural children; -making their happiness a principal object of his attention, and -frequently at last legitimating them either by marriage or by will. - -The creoles are careful of the education of their children, and will -strain every nerve to support them at college until they have finished -their studies, and are thus able to enter the church, to follow the -profession of the law, or to practise in medicine. The education of the -daughters generally devolves on the mother: proper schools for their -instruction are very rare; so that, excepting a little drawing, dancing, -and music, for which purposes good masters are scarce, the needle claims -the greater portion of their time; and from the highest to the lowest -ranks they are continually employed in embroidery or other kinds of -needlework, at which they are very dexterous. The necessary -accomplishments of reading and writing are, however, never dispensed -with among the higher and middle orders. - -The white inhabitants of Lima have sallow complexions, having very -little colour on their cheeks; but, to the credit of the ladies, they -are not in the habit of using an artificial substitute; their hair and -eyes are black, the latter full and penetrating, which, with good teeth, -form very interesting countenances. The profusion of beautiful black -ringlets over their foreheads appears as if formed to prevent a stranger -from being over-dazzled by those sparkling eyes they are intended, but -in vain, to hide. Their figures are extremely genteel, though rather -small and slender. Their feet are remarkably diminutive, and the ease -and elegance of their gait is not to be surpassed. - -When I arrived in Lima, in 1804, the long Spanish cloak was worn by all -classes of men; but in 1810 it was so little used as a dress, that it -was rarely seen. When used, it was put on merely to supply the place of -a great coat, or confined to a few of the old Spaniards, who are as -great enemies to innovation as the Chinese. The English costume is now -quite prevalent, and as many dandies crowd the streets of Lima as those -of London. The walking dress of the females of all descriptions is the -_saya y manto_, which is a petticoat of velvet, satin, or stuff, -generally black or of a cinnamon colour, plaited in very small folds, -and rather elastic; it sits close to the body, and shews its shape to -the utmost possible advantage. At the bottom it is too narrow to allow -the wearer to step forward freely, but the short step rather adds to -than deprives her of a graceful air. This part of the dress is often -tastefully ornamented round the bottom with lace, fringe, spangles, -pearls, artificial flowers, or whatever may be considered fashionable. -Among ladies of the higher order the saya is of different -colours--purple, pale blue, lead colour, or striped. The manto is a hood -of thin black silk, drawn round the waist, and then carried over the -head: by closing it before, they can hide the whole of the face, one eye -alone being visible; sometimes they show half the face, but this depends -on the choice of the wearer. A fine shawl or handkerchief hanging down -before, a rosary in the hand, silk stockings and satin shoes, complete -the costume. - -The hood is undoubtedly derived from the Moors, and to a stranger it has -a very curious appearance; however, I confess that I became so -reconciled to the sight, that I thought and still think it both handsome -and genteel. This dress is peculiar to Lima; indeed I never saw it worn -any where else in South America. It is certainly very convenient, for at -a moment's notice a lady can, without the necessity of changing her -under dress, put on her _saya y manto_, and go out; and no female will -walk in the street in any other in the day time. For the evening -promenade an English dress is often adopted, but in general a large -shawl is thrown over the head, and a hat is worn over all; between the -folds of the shawl it is not uncommon to perceive a lighted cegar; for -although several of the fair sex are addicted to smoking, none of them -choose to practise it openly. - -When the ladies appear on public occasions, at the theatre, bull -circus, and _pascos_, promenades, they are dressed in the English or -French costume, but they are always very anxious to exhibit a profusion -of jewellery, to which they are particularly partial. A lady in Lima -would much rather possess an extensive collection of precious gems than -a gay equipage. They are immoderately fond of perfumes, and spare no -expense in procuring them: it is a well known fact, that many poor -females attend at the archbishop's gate, and after receiving a pittance, -immediately purchase with the money _agua rica_, or some other scented -water. Even the ladies, not content with the natural fragrance of -flowers, add to it, and spoil it by sprinkling them with lavender water, -spirit of musk, or ambergris, and often by fumigating them with gum -benzoin, musk and amber, particularly the _mistura_, which is a compound -of jessamine, wall flowers, orange flowers and others, picked from the -stalks. Small apples and green limes are also filled with slices of -cinnamon and cloves. The mixture is generally to be found on a salver at -a lady's toilette; they will distribute it among their friends by asking -for a pocket handkerchief, tying up a small quantity in the corner, and -sprinkling it with some perfume, expecting the compliment, "that it is -most delicately seasoned." - -The indians who reside in Lima have become such exact imitators of the -creoles, in dress and manners, that were it not for their -copper-coloured faces it would be difficult to distinguish them. I shall -at present, however, defer any particular description of this part of -the inhabitants of South America. The principal occupation of the -indians who reside in Lima is the making of fringes, gold and silver -lace, epaulettes, and embroidery; some are tailors, others attend the -business of the market, but very few are servants or mechanics. - -The African negroes, owing to the kind treatment they receive, appear to -be completely happy. On their arrival they used to be exposed for sale -in some large house, and the first attention of their purchasers was to -have them taught the necessary prayers and rudiments of the Christian -religion, a task which generally fell to the lot of the younger branches -of the family. I have often seen the children of noblemen, as well as -those of the wealthy inhabitants, instructing their African slaves in -the Christian duties; for it is here considered quite disgraceful to -have a negro in the house for any length of time without being baptized; -and this ceremony cannot be performed until they are first prepared for -it by being taught their prayers and the catechism. They are then taken -to the parish church, and examined by the priest, and if he find that -they are sufficiently instructed, he christens them, some of the oldest -and most steady of the slaves belonging to the family standing as -sponsors, on whom the duty of teaching them afterwards devolves. It very -seldom happens that, after a year's residence in a Christian family, an -African is not fully prepared to receive the communion. - -In the suburbs of San Lazaro are _cofradias_ or clubs belonging to the -different castes or nations of the Africans, where they hold their -meetings in a very orderly manner, generally on a Sunday afternoon; and -if any one of the royal family belonging to the respective nations is to -be found in the city, he or she is called the King or Queen of the -cofradia, and treated with every mark of respect. I was well acquainted -with a family in Lima, in which there was an old female slave, who had -lived with them for upwards of fifty years, and who was the acknowledged -Queen of the Mandingos, she being, according to their statement, a -princess. On particular days she was conducted from the house of her -master, by a number of black people, to the cofradia, dressed as gaudily -as possible; for this purpose her young mistresses would lend her -jewels to a considerable amount, besides which the poor old woman was -bedizened with a profusion of artificial flowers, feathers, and other -ornaments. Her master had presented her with a silver sceptre, and this -necessary appendage of royalty was on such occasions always carried by -her. It has often gratified my best feelings, when _Mama Rosa_ was -seated in the porch of her master's house, to see her subjects come and -kneel before her, ask her blessing, and kiss her hand. I have followed -them to the cofradia, and seen her majesty seated on her throne, and go -through the ceremony of royalty without a _blush_. On her arrival, and -at her departure, the poor creatures would sing to their music, which -consisted of a large drum, formed of a piece of hollow wood, one end -being covered with the skin of a kid, put on while fresh, and braced by -placing it near some lighted charcoal; and a string of catgut, fastened -to a bow, which was struck with a small cane; to these they added a -rattle, made of the jaw-bone of an ass or a mule, having the teeth -loose, so that by striking it with one hand they would rattle in their -sockets. For a full chorus, they sometimes hold a short bone in their -hand, and draw it briskly backward and forward over the teeth: it does -not produce much harmony, it is true; but if David found harmony in his -harp, Pan in his pipes, and Apollo in his lyre; if a shepherd find music -in his reed, and a mandarin in the gong, why should not the Queen of -Mandingo find it in the jaw-bone of an ass or a mule! - -The walls of the cofradias are ornamented with likenesses in fresco of -the different royal personages who have belonged to them. The purpose of -the institution is to help those to good masters, who have been so -unfortunate as to meet with bad ones; but as a master can object to -selling his slave, unless he prove by law that he has been cruelly -treated, which is very difficult, or next to impossible, the cofradias -raise a fund by contributions, and free the slave, to which the master -cannot object; but this slave now becomes tacitly the slave of the -cofradia, and must return by instalments the money paid for his -manumission. - -I shall not attempt to defend all the actions of the Africans in a state -of slavery; but I must say, that when they are treated with -compassionate kindness, they are generally faithful and honest; -frequently become personally attached to their master, and though they -may be sometimes loath to exert themselves in laborious tasks to serve -him, yet in an emergency of danger they would often die for him. On the -contrary, when harshly and unjustly treated they become stubborn in the -greatest degree, and the master is only secure from personal violence -through the irresolute temper of the slave and his fear of punishment. -But place a white man in the same situation, and what, let me ask, would -be the line of conduct he would pursue? - -The negro creole is generally more athletic and robust than his African -parents; he has no more virtues than they have, but he has commonly more -vices; he seems to be more awake to revenge, and less timid of the -consequences; he considers himself as better than the _bozales_, the -name given to African slaves, and will rarely intermarry with them. - -The mestiso is generally very strong, of a swarthy complexion, and but -little beard; he is kind, affable and generous, and particularly -inclined to mix in the society of white people; very serviceable, and -something like the gallegos in Spain. In some parts of the interior of -the country there are great numbers of mestisos; here their colour is -whiter, and they have blue eyes and fair hair during childhood, but both -become darker as they advance in years. - -The mulatto is seldom so robust as his parents; he appears of a delicate -constitution, and in his mental capacities is far superior to the -negro; indeed when assisted by education he is not inferior to a white -man. Fond of dress and parade, of a fiery imagination and inclined to -talk, he is often eloquent, and very partial to poetry. Many mulattos in -Lima obtain a good education by accompanying their young masters to -school while children, and afterwards attending on them at college. It -is very common at a public disputation in the university, to hear a -mulatto in the gallery help a wrangler out with a syllogism: they are -generally called _palanganos_, which is a local term, signifying a -chatterer. Many of the surgeons here are mulattos, and frequently do -great honour to themselves, and credit to their profession. Some of the -females have agreeable countenances, and fine figures; they are witty -and generous, and remarkably faithful in their connexions; they are very -fond of dress, dancing, and public amusements, where they generally -appear with their curly hair scarcely reaching to their shoulders, -adorned with jessamine and other flowers. In the evening they will -sometimes fill their hair with jessamine buds, which in the course of an -hour will open, and present the appearance of a bushy powdered wig. They -are often the confidential servants in rich families, and have the -direction of all domestic concerns. Occasionally they are the duennas -of the young ladies, and not unfrequently sisters to them; but a very -just law decrees manumission to a female slave, if she can only prove -that she has had a criminal connexion with her master. - -The zambos are more robust than the mulattos, they are morose and -stubborn, partaking very much of the character of the African negro, but -prone to more vices. A greater number of robberies and murders are -committed by this caste than by all the rest, except the chino, the -worst mixed breed in existence:--he is cruel, revengeful, and -unforgiving; very ugly, as if his soul were expressed in his features; -lazy, stupid, and provoking. He is low in stature, and like the indian -has little or no beard, but very harsh black hair, which is inclined to -curl. - -The quarteron and quinteron are often handsome, have good figures, a -fair complexion, with blue eyes and light coloured hair; they are mild -and obliging, but have not the intrepidity nor lively imagination of the -mulatto. - -I have not attributed drunkenness to any of the castes, for excepting -that of the African negro it is not common: perhaps the example of the -abstemious Spaniards is the cause of this sobriety. - -The principal place of public amusement in Lima is the theatre, which -is a small but commodious building; its figure is nearly a semicircle, -having the stage for its diameter. The boxes, of which there are two -rows, are all private, being separated from one another by slight -partitions: they will each hold eight persons very comfortably. The pit -is filled with benches, which have backs, and are most conveniently -divided into seats by low arms. This part of the theatre exclusively -belongs to the men; but no soldiers, sailors, or people of colour, -without they be genteelly dressed, are admitted. Behind the pit and -under the lower tier of boxes is an area for the lower classes of men; -the gallery is the part appropriated to women of the lowest order. The -Viceroy's box was on the left side of the stage, and the nearest to it: -thus his Excellency gave his right side to no one; it was neatly fitted -up, with a crimson velvet canopy over it, and hangings of the same -colour on the outside, with a state chair, and others for his family, -gentlemen in waiting, and pages. The box for the cabildo is in the -centre, in the front of the stage. A guard of soldiers always attends on -the nights of performance, which are Thursdays and Sundays, and every -great festival, except during Lent, when the theatre is closed. The -scenery is not despicable, and I have seen some good performers, both -comic and tragic; but these are principally Spaniards. - -The bull circus is a capacious building; with rooms in the lower parts, -having a sufficient open space to witness the fight; over these are -eight rows of seats, rising one above another; and behind them are the -boxes, or rather galleries, where the principal spectators take their -stations, and to which all the youth and beauty of Lima, in their -richest attire, resort. The gallery for the Viceroy is opposite to the -door where the bulls enter: it is large and handsome. The area is eighty -yards in diameter, and in the centre is a safety station, formed by -driving poles into the ground, at a sufficient distance from each other -to allow a man to pass when he is closely pursued by a bull. - -Scarcely any person speaks of the Spanish diversion of bull-fighting -without pretending to be shocked; but the same person will dilate on a -boxing-match with every symptom of delight. I have seen Englishmen -shudder and sympathize with a horse wounded by a bull, who would have -been delighted to have seen Spring "darken one of Langan's peepers." -When we have nothing to correct at home let us find fault with our -neighbours; for my own part, I am a friend to bull-fights, but an enemy -to pugilistic homicide. If the amateurs of this "manly exercise" assert, -that it teaches a man how to defend himself against another, I reply, -that bull-fighting teaches him how to defend himself against a furious -animal. - -I shall not give a precise detail of this spectacle; but merely notice a -few circumstances connected with it. At three o'clock, the circus, which -holds nearly twenty thousand persons, is generally full. The spectators -are of every colour--we have the European white, the American Indian, -and the African negro, with all the shades produced by their mixture, -and all are dressed in as fine attire as they can afford. One or two -companies of soldiers attend, and after performing some fanciful -evolutions in the arena, they take their stations, the band of military -music being placed in front of the Viceroy's gallery. On the arrival of -his excellency the trumpets sounded, the fighters, on foot and on -horseback, handsomely dressed in pink and pale blue satin, with cloaks -of the same stuff, began to parade the area; the first bull immediately -entered, often very gaily caparisoned--his horns sheathed in silver, the -body covered with a loose cloth of tissue, brocade, or satin, having on -his back a silver filigree basket filled with artificial flowers or -fireworks. He is at first baited by holding a cloak to him, at which he -butts, when the baiter, drawing himself on one side, shakes it over his -head as he passes: at a signal from one of the regidores, who presides -as umpire, the man appointed kills the bull, either by running him -through with a sword, receiving him on the point of a strong lance, or, -crossing him when at full speed at a cloak presented to him, he stabs -him behind the horns, and the ferocious animal experiences so sudden a -check, that he frequently falls dead at the feet of the matador. Six -horses drawing a small car immediately enter, and the horns of the dead -bull being secured by hooks and a chain, he is dragged out, and another -brought in. The annual fightings are on the eight Mondays next after -Christmas, and the number of bulls killed each afternoon, from three to -six o'clock, is generally sixteen or eighteen. - -The royal cockpit is a daily resort, excepting Sundays. Many good mains -of cocks are fought, and an afternoon seldom passes without four or five -pair being matched. The pit is surrounded with ranges of seats, above -and behind which is a range of galleries. Every cock has one large -lancet-shaped spur fastened to his leg, his own spur being first cut -off: for this operation, as well as for placing the game within the -ring, several fancy men attend, and one of the regidores always acts as -umpire, and is paid for performing this judicial duty. The cockpit, as -well as the theatre, belongs to the hospital of San Andres. - -There are several places in the suburbs for skittles and bowls; but they -are more frequented by Spaniards, particularly Biscayans, than by -creoles. - -The public walks, _paseos_, are part of the Callao road, as far as the -willows extend. The new _alameda_, which has a double row of high -willows, a coachway between them, and foot walks on each side, with two -ranges of seats built of brick, is about a mile in length along the -river side, having a very commodious cold bath at the farther end, -formed by a spring of beautiful limpid water. One large bath is walled -round, with a covering of vines over a trellis roof. There are also -twenty small private baths, to which a great number of people resort -during the summer. The water after supplying the baths is employed in -turning a corn-mill, and then in the irrigation of several gardens. The -old alameda is also in the suburbs of San Lazaro: it is about half a -mile long, has a double row of willows and orange trees on each side, -enclosing shady foot walks with stone benches, and a carriage-way in -the middle. There are three old fountains in the carriage-way, and a -beautiful view of the convent and church of San Diego at the northern -extremity, having the _beaterio_, house of female seclusion, called the -Patrocinio, with a neat chapel, on one side, and the small chapel and -convent of the _recoleta de los Agonizantes_, on the other. On one side -of this alameda the Viceroy Amat had built a large shallow reservoir or -basin, with some beautiful lofty arches, like a portico, in the Grecian -order, at one end; also the necessary pipes were laid for conveying -water to the top of the central arch, from whence it was to have fallen -into the basin, forming a most beautiful cascade; but he was superseded -before the work was finished; and, as one Viceroy has seldom attended to -any thing left unfinished by his predecessor, this work, like the road -to Callao begun by the Viceroy Higgins, remains unfinished. - -To these public paseos such numbers of the fashionable inhabitants -resort on Sundays and other holidays, particularly in the afternoons, -that as many as three hundred carriages may sometimes be counted: the -richer tradesman in his calesa, drawn by one mule; the nobleman in his -coach and two; the titled of Castile in a coach and four; and formerly, -the Viceroy in his coach and six; he being the only person in Lima, -excepting the archbishop, who enjoyed this distinction. Gentlemen seldom -go in the coaches, so that the beauty of Lima have the temporary -privilege of riding alone, and nodding without reserve to their amorous -_galanes_, who parade the side walks. The _paseo de los alcaldes_, the -procession of new mayors, is in the old alameda, and is always an -occasion of great bustle, being on new year's day. The Viceroy never -attended, because his dignity would have been eclipsed by the brilliant -liveries and gay appearance of the alcaldes. - -The principal bathing places are Miraflores, one league from the city: -it is a pretty village, with several handsome _ranchos_, or cottages. -Chorrillos, two leagues from Lima; a large village, with a very neat -church, being a parish of indians. Here the descent to the sea is very -commodious, and those who prefer bathing to gaming generally visit this -place; but there is nevertheless a considerable portion of the latter -fashionable amusement here. Lurin is about seven leagues from the -capital, it is also a parish of indians, and a place of great resort for -the higher classes of gamesters:--the distance precludes a too numerous -concourse of the lower orders of society. - -The piazzas of the plasa mayor are crowded every night from seven -o'clock till ten with the frail part of the female sex. A range of -tables with ices, lemonade, and other refreshments stand on the outside -of the piazzas, with benches for the weary and thirsty to rest upon. At -eight o'clock the _retreta_, the different bands of military music, -leave the palace door: this is a great attraction, and forms an excuse -for many a fair visitor to attend the piazza. The bridge, as has been -already mentioned, is another place for evening chit chat. The piazzas -are the genteel lounge on a Sunday and the morning of a holiday, when -they are generally much crowded. - -The _paseo de las lomas_, or _de los amancaes_, as it is called, is a -visit to the hills on the north side of Lima on the days of St. John and -St. Peter. The _amancaes_, yellow daffodils, being then in flower, the -hills are covered with them. At this time of the year the cattle are -driven from the farms to the mountains to feed; for as soon as the -_garuas_, fogs, begin, they are covered with verdure, so that the -principal incitement is to drink milk, eat custards, rice-milk, &c. In -the evening it is very amusing to see thousands of people in coaches, on -horseback, and on foot, returning to the city, almost covered with -daffodils, of which each endeavours to collect the largest quantity. - -One of the peculiarities which excites the attention of a stranger in -Lima is the tolling of the great bell of the cathedral at about -half-past nine in the morning: at this time the host at high mass is -elevated; the oracion bell is rung at sunset. In the morning the bustle -and noise in the market may be loud enough to astound an unaccustomed -observer, but the bell tolls, and instantaneously all is silent as the -tomb--not a whisper, not a footstep is heard; as if by enchantment all -in a moment becomes motionless; every one takes off his hat, many kneel -till the third knell is heard, when the bustle, noise, and confusion -again commence. In the evening the scene is repeated, the oracion bell -tolls, and motion ceases in every direction; the buyer and the seller -stand like statues, and the half spoken word hangs on the lips until the -third knell is heard, when crossing themselves devoutly, they bow to -each other, and a general "good night," _buena noche_, sets them at -liberty again to follow their avocations. I never could help admiring -this method of reminding every individual to thank his Creator for -blessings received during the day, and to crave his kind protection -during the night. I have often been pleased with the solemnity produced, -for, without entering any particular place of worship, a place perhaps -where the tenets are contrary to the religious creeds of many -individuals, all - - - "TO THEE whose temple is all space, - Whose altar, earth, sea, skies," - - -may pray and praise in the manner their inclination or fancy may direct -them. If the curfew of England were tolled for the same purpose it would -perhaps be more consonant to the use of bells placed in a building -dedicated to God, than to the now obsolete order for extinguishing -fires, of which not one in a hundred knows the origin. - -Respecting the feasts of the church, that of Corpus Christi is very -splendid. The procession leaves the cathedral attended by all the civil -and military authorities holding large wax tapers, the different orders -of friars, the dean and chapter, and the archbishop, under a splendid -canopy, supported by twelve priests in their robes of ceremony, his -grace bearing the host or consecrated wafer, which is deposited in a -superbly rich hostiarium. The military force is drawn up in the square, -or plasa mayor, and after kneeling and pointing their bayonets to the -ground, the banners and flags being prostrated as the sacrament passes, -they all join in the procession, falling in at its rear; and when the -archbishop turns round at the principal porch and blesses the people, -the artillery and musquetry fire a salute. The most particular feature -in this procession is the assistance of all the clubs or cofradias of -the Africans: each separate company has its appropriate national music -and songs, some of them carrying wooden idols on their heads, and -dancing about with them among those who belong to their confraternity. - -Santa Rosa, being a native of Lima, and patroness of America, has a -solemn feast and procession from the church of Santo Domingo to the -cathedral on the last day of August. It is generally attended by a great -number of ladies, wearing wreaths of red and white artificial roses -round their waists and the bottom of their _sayas_. The Viceroy and the -tribunals also attended in this procession. - -There are many other processions which it would be useless and -unentertaining to mention. Those of San Francisco and Santo Domingo -present the peculiarity of having the two effigies carried from their -respective churches, so as to meet in the plasa mayor, where they salute -each other by bows, &c., and are then carried to the church where the -feast is celebrated. The host gives his right side to the guest, and -after the feast is concluded he accompanies him home to his own church. -On the day of San Francisco the friars of the order regale all the -prisoners in the different gaols with a good dinner; and those of Santo -Domingo do the same on the day of their patriarch. - -The publication of the bulls, once in two years, happened on the day of -St. Thomas the Apostle. The commissary-general was received at the door -of the cathedral under a pall or canopy: he carried a bull of the -crusade hung round his neck, and proceeded to the high altar, where he -delivered it to the notary-public of the crusade, who, although a -civilian, ascended the pulpit, and read the address of the -commissary-general to the congregation. After this high mass was -celebrated, and an appropriate sermon preached, setting forth the virtue -of the bulls, and the great benefit derived from their purchase. This -discourse in the year 1804 was rather ridiculous, because the King had -raised the price of the bull of the crusade, and the good priest had not -only to exhort the faithful to continue the holy practice of purchasing -the bull, but to reconcile them to the additional tax imposed. This, he -said, was to supply his Catholic Majesty with money for the purpose of -carrying on the war against the English and other heretics. Such is the -belief in the efficacy of these bulls, and so great is the revenue -derived from the sale of them, that the new governments of Chile, Buenos -Ayres, and, I was told, of Mexico and Colombia, re-printed them, and for -some time continued the hoax. A priest in Chile, of whom I inquired -whether the new government had a right to profit by a papal dispensation -granted to the King of Spain, their enemy, answered me very archly, that -a bull of the patria was as good as a bull of the pope; and that if the -Viceroy Pesuela had a right to take the money from the treasury of the -crusade at Lima, for the purpose of paying the expedition sent against -Chile, the government of Chile had only followed the Christian-like -example of their forefathers, who came to America for the purpose of -preaching the gospel, and thus saving from the power of satan the souls -of millions of infidels; but, continued he, laughing most heartily, if -they try it again, I dare say they will find themselves like the man who -went for wool and returned shorn: _que fue por lana, y volvio -trasquilado_. - -I was at Lima when the Viceroy Abascal made his public entrance, and -also when the Viceroy Pesuela entered, who was probably the last that -ever will enter, (La Serna, the nominal Viceroy, being no better than a -traitor to Spain, having assumed the authority after he deposed Pesuela) -I shall therefore give a short description of this formal ceremony. - -On the arrival of the new Viceroy at Mansanilla, about four miles from -Lima, he sent an officer, with the title of Ambassador, to inform his -predecessor, that it being the will and pleasure of his Majesty that he -should take upon himself the government of the kingdom of Peru, he -should enter the capital the day following; a circumstance of which he -begged leave to apprize his Excellency, that he might be prepared to -resign the command, because his authority would cease: such being the -orders of the Sovereign. The Viceroy immediately sent a messenger to his -successor, to compliment him on his safe arrival. The two persons chosen -by the chiefs for this ceremony were rewarded by them respectively with -minor governments in Peru, this being the general custom; so that the -first and the last act of a Viceroy was to confer a favour on some -protegée. On the following morning the Viceroy Marquis de Aviles had an -interview with his successor Abascal, but he returned to dinner at the -palace, while his successor partook of a splendid dinner at Mansanilla, -to which the principal nobility were invited. In the afternoon the -Viceroy Aviles went in state to meet Abascal; they met on the road, and -each alighted from his carriage: Aviles here presented Abascal with a -gold headed cane or bâton, the insignia of the government of the -kingdom; they then stepped into each other's coach, and entered the -city, which on this occasion was splendidly adorned, all the streets -through which the cavalcade passed being hung with tapestry, silk -curtains, and other gay hangings. The steeples of the churches were -ornamented with flags, and every bell was ringing. When the Viceroy -Marquis de la Palata entered Lima in 1682, the streets through which the -procession passed were all paved with bars of silver. The new Viceroy -proceeded to his palace, where one of the alcaldes, deputed for the -purpose, waited his arrival, and received and acknowledged him on the -part of the city. On the following day all the courts, civil and -ecclesiastical, bodies corporate, and communities waited on him, and at -ten o'clock accompanied him to the cathedral, where Te Deum was -chaunted. On his return to the palace the archbishop called on the -Viceroy, who immediately afterwards returned the compliment; this is -the only visit which a Viceroy paid. At twelve o'clock the new Viceroy -went in state to the chamber of the audience, and took the oath of -administration. The Viceroy Abascal dispensed with many ceremonies which -Pesuela did not; I shall therefore subjoin them. - -A few days after the arrival of Pesuela in Lima, a day was fixed for his -entrance in state; the streets and steeples were ornamented as on the -public entrance, with the addition of several triumphal arches, one with -a gate was placed close to the church of Montserrat, near to the city -wall. The Viceroy left the city early in the morning for Callao, and -visited the fortifications; at nine o'clock he returned, and having -arrived at the gate, which was shut, the captain of the escort alighted -and knocked; the captain of the guard at the gate opened the postern, -and asked who was there? Being answered, the Viceroy and captain-general -of the kingdom, he closed the postern. The principal alcalde now -advanced and passed the postern, and the Viceroy alighted from his -horse, and the gate was thrown open: the alcalde then presented a golden -key to the Viceroy, who, and his retinue of chamberlain, groom, -chaplain, physician and pages, mounted their gaily caparisoned horses, -prepared by the city, and the procession began in the following order:-- - -The cavalry then in the city; four pieces of artillery and the necessary -artillery-men; the city militia; the troops of the line; the colleges, -the university, the professors being dressed in the habits of their -respective professions; the chamber of accompts; all the members of the -audience, with their togas and golas, mounted on horses covered with -black velvet embroidered trappings; the magistracy in crimson velvet -robes, lined with crimson brocade, and small black caps on their heads. -Eight members of the corporation, regidores, walked supporting an -elegant crimson and gold canopy over the head of the Viceroy on -horseback, and the two alcaldes in their magisterial robes, acted as -equerries to his Excellency, holding the reins of his horse. The whole -cavalcade was closed by the body guard of halberdiers and that of -cavalry. It passed through several of the principal streets, and halted -in the plasa mayor, in front of the cathedral, where the archbishop and -chapter received the Viceroy as Vice-patron, and one of the minor canons -offered incense to him at the door. Being seated, Te Deum was chaunted, -after which the Viceroy mounted his horse and proceeded to his palace, -where a splendid dinner was provided for him by the city. On the -evening of this and the two following days grand balls and routs were -given at the palace to the nobility, and free admittance to the -_tapadas_ was granted to the galleries, corridors, and gardens. The -tapadas are females who are either not invited, or their rank does not -allow them to attend in public, but who come to the fête covered, so as -to prevent their being known; a great deal of vivacity and spirited wit -is often heard among them. This manner of being present at any public -entertainment is general in South America, and it is almost impossible -to prevent it. - -Three days of bull fighting followed in honour of the Viceroy, and two -in honour of the ambassador who brought the news of his arrival; all at -the expence of the cabildo. These were held in the plasa mayor, which -was converted into a temporary circus on the occasion; there were also -performances at the theatre on the evenings of the same days. - -The university prepared for Pesuela a poetical wrangle, adapted to -display the ingenuity and learning of the professors and members. The -rector published the themes, and an account of the different prizes, -which consisted of pieces of plate. On the day appointed, the cloister -and courts of the university were adorned with splendid magnificence; -the pillars and walls were hung with emblematical devices, and with -shields containing poetical inscriptions in Latin and Spanish. On the -entrance of the Viceroy, he was conducted to the rectoral chair, -ornamented for the occasion, which with the canopy, cushions, and table -cover, had a most magnificent appearance. The rector took his seat -opposite to his Excellency, and in a formal manner expressed the -happiness which the university enjoyed in the presence of its -Vice-patron, with more flattery and more adulation than ever were -uttered by any other man. Several of the professors next addressed him, -in speeches as fulsome as need be; after which the rector rose, and -presented to Pesuela, on a silver salver of great value, four -nominations to the degree of doctor, which he had the privilege to give -to any of his protegées, certain that in their examination they would -not only pass for the nominations, but be excused the payment of the -honorarium, which is about a thousand dollars for each diploma. The -Viceroy was then conducted to the library, where a grand collation was -set out for himself and suite, after partaking of which he retired to -his palace. In the evening there was a splendid assembly, and -_refresco_, a cold collation, prepared for those who had the honour of -an invitation, as well as the tapadas, who attend uninvited. On the -following day the salver, which cost two thousand dollars, was presented -to the Viceroy, with the nominations, by two deputies from the -university. A few days afterward the rector waited on the Viceroy and -presented him with a printed copy of the speeches, poetry, &c. elegantly -bound, and covered with crimson velvet, with gold clasps and other -ornaments. - -The colleges and convents had similar days of poetical contest, and each -of them presented his Excellency with an ornamented copy of their -effusions. - -Flattery in these cases knows no limits. All the prize productions were -signed with the names of the different individuals belonging to the -family of the Viceroy; so that all the prizes, being as I have said -pieces of plate, valuable both for the metal and workmanship, go to the -palace. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - Fruits in the Gardens of Lima....Flowers....Particular Dishes, or - Cookery...._Chuno_, dried Potatoes...._Chochoca_, dried - Maize....Sweetmeats....Meals....Diseases....Medical - Observations....On the Commerce of Lima....Profitable Speculations. - - -The south and east sides of Lima are covered with gardens and orchards -of the most delicious fruits, both tropical and equinoctial; towards the -east there are several gardens within the walls; but the greater number -are on the outside. Among the fruits known in European gardens, and -produced in great perfection at Lima, are several varieties of the -grape; for the colonial laws of Spain have not prohibited the -cultivation of the vine in Peru and Chile, as they have done in Mexico -and New Grenada. Olives grow in great abundance and of an excellent -quality; they are not preserved here, as in France, while small and -green, but are left on the trees till they are ripe, and are then -pickled in salt and water; others are pressed and dried, when they take -the appearance of prunes. Oil is made in considerable quantities, but -it is not so fine nor so good as the French or Italian oils. The first -olive was brought to Peru in 1560 by Don Antonio de Ribera, a native of -Lima. Apples and pears prosper extremely well, though but few varieties -are cultivated. Peaches and apricots do well; of the former here are -many varieties; some called _aurimelos_ and _priscos_ are very delicate. -Nectarines, plums and cherries are scarce, and only to be found in a few -places; I have seen them in the gardens of Don Pedro de la Presa, who -laid out a most magnificent garden and orchard in the suburbs of San -Lazaro; besides which he built a stately house, and expended on both -more than two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. One of the gardens is -called de Don Jaime, the other is at Miraflores. Gooseberries or -currants I never saw in any part of South America, excepting some small -plants brought to Chile for Lord Cochrane, which, owing to inattention, -died. A wild species of currant, however, is common in some parts both -of Peru and Chile, but the fruit is small and bitter, perhaps through -want of cultivation. Several kinds of melons are produced in great -abundance and of fine flavour; the _sandias_, water melons, are large -and good. Figs are most plentiful, and well flavoured. The pomegranates -are fine and full of juice; the quinces also grow very large. - -Among the tropical and equinoctial fruits, the plantain and banana -ornament the orchards with their large green leaves, being the emblem of -luxuriant fertility: this luscious and wholesome fruit ministers to the -appetite of the rich, and satisfies the hunger of the poor. No native -will drink water immediately after eating the plantain, nor any thing -but water after the banana. - -Much has been said respecting the banana by several writers. Forster and -other naturalists pretend that it did not exist in America before the -conquest; but I consider the existence of it in the river Ucayale, where -it was found cultivated by the first missionaries, as well as in some of -the more internal parts of Maynas, and by Count Ruis in the valley of -St. Ana, to the eastward of Cusco, when first explored, and by myself in -Archidona and Napo, to the eastward of Quito, at Cocaniguas and Pite to -the westward--I look upon these facts as sufficient proofs to the -contrary; but what will place beyond a doubt, that the banana and -plantain are indigenous, is, that I have found beds of leaves of both -these plants in the huacas at Paramongo. Four varieties of the musa are -known in Lima, the _platano arton_ (musa paradisiaca), the _camburi_ or -_largo_ (musa sapientum), the _dominico_ or _guinea_ (musa regia), and -the _maiga_ of the sea, called _de la isla_, the first plants being -brought from Otaheite, in the frigate Aguila, in 1769. Garcilaso de la -Vega, and Father Acosta, also assert, that the banana was cultivated -before the conquest. The former says, that in the warm and temperate -regions it constituted one of the principal sources of nourishment of -the natives; and the latter speaks of its being grown in the mountains -of las Emeraldas, where I have seen it myself, and particularly in some -old plantations, now uncultivated, called by the natives _Incas vicuri_, -bananas of the Incas. The sour and the sweet oranges, lemons, limes, -citrons, and shaddocks, grow in all the gardens, and contribute greatly -to their beauty. The trees at the same time are loaded with delicious -and beautiful fruit, both ripe and green; their delicate white flowers, -in clusters, shedding their perfume around: indeed, nothing can exceed -the beauty and fragrance of these trees during the greater part of the -year. I have seen orange trees, from forty to fifty feet high, covered -with large bunches of ripe oranges; but the gardeners generally keep -them at from ten to twenty feet high, because they then bear more fruit, -and also of a better quality. The Lucuma is a large tree: the fruit is -round, and about the size of an orange; it has a green skin or rind, and -contains three large kidney shaped kernels covered with a very hard -shell: the eatable part is of a deep yellow colour, in substance and -appearance not unlike the yolk of a hard boiled egg: it is dry, and to -my taste not very palatable; but it is esteemed by many. - -The _Palta_, alligator pear or vegetable marrow, is sometimes round, and -sometimes pear shaped: the tree is large and handsome, the fruit is -contained in a coriaceous rind, having in the centre a large kernel, of -a brown colour and very harsh taste. It is often used as a dye, when it -gives a nankeen colour. It is also used for marking linen; this is -effected by spreading the linen over the kernel, and with a pin pricking -through it into the kernel an indelible mark is obtained. The eatable -part of the fruit is delicious; it is seasoned with salt, pepper, &c. -according to the palate, and its taste is similar to marrow: few persons -approve of this fruit at first, but almost all become passionately fond -of it afterwards. The _pacay_ is a moderately sized tree; its fruit is -contained in a large green pod--there are several varieties--the pod of -one is sometimes more than a yard long and three inches broad. The -eatable part is a soft, cotton-like substance, which is sweet and juicy. -It envelops a black bean, and these frequently germinate in the pods, -and have a very curious appearance. The _guayaba_, guaba, grows in great -abundance, and here there are several varieties, some of which are very -good. The _granadilla_ is a creeping plant, one of the varieties of the -passion flower; the fruit is of the shape and size of a duck's egg; the -shell is rather hard, of a brown hue, and contains a very delicate -substance full of small black seeds, in taste not unlike that of a ripe -gooseberry. Another variety of this fruit has a thick rind, the interior -being much like the common granadilla: it is called _de quixos_, -because, very probably, the first seed was brought from the woods in the -province of Quixos. The _tumbo_ or _badea_ is another variety, but the -fruit is as large as a moderate sized melon, which it nearly resembles -when cut, except that the seeds are of a brownish colour. It is commonly -prepared for the table by cutting the fleshy substance or outside into -small slices, and mixing them with the juicy inside and seeds, adding to -it sugar, wine, and spices; and in this state it is really delicious. -The _palillo_ is the delicate custard-apple, which is very sweet and -fragrant. The females of Lima often dry the rind or skin, and burn it -with other perfumes. The _capuli_ is the cape gooseberry; it grows on a -small bush, and when ripe has an agreeable acid taste. The _chirimoya_ -is often called the queen of fruits, and it undoubtedly deserves that -name. The tree is low and bushy; the flower is composed of three -triangular fleshy leaves; the appearance is mean, but its fragrance -surpasses that of any other flower which could be mentioned; however, it -only continues in perfection for one evening--indeed the fragrance is so -great, that one flower will scent a large room, and particularly if it -be warmed by enclosing it in the hand. The fruit has somewhat the shape -of a heart--the exterior is green, with a reticulated appearance, -occasioned more by brownish lines on the fruit than by any indented -marks, like the pine-apple: it contains several blackish seeds, about -the size of horse beans; but the larger the fruit the fewer are the -seeds. The eatable part is extremely delicate; it resembles a custard in -substance, and is generally eaten with a spoon. On the arrival of the -first Spaniards in Peru, the description they sent of this fruit to -Spain was, that it was a net filled with honey; for they knew of nothing -else to which they could compare it. Their weight in Lima is from one -to three pounds each; but in the woods of Huanuco and Loxa they are -often found to weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds each and even more. -The _guanabana_, or sour sop, has greatly the appearance of the -chirimoya; but the fruit is generally larger as well as the flower, -which is also quite different. The fruit of the guanabana often grows on -the main trunk of the tree and on the largest branches, whilst the other -grows on the branches when they are two years old. The guanabana has a -grateful acid taste, and is often dissolved in water, which is -afterwards strained and sugar added to it, forming an agreeable -beverage: a very good jelly is also made from it as a preserve, which is -most delicately transparent. The _pepino_ is an egg-shaped fruit, and -smells like a cucumber. Here are several varieties, and when ripe they -have a sweet but peculiar taste, between the raw vegetable and fruit: -they are considered unwholesome, and often called _mata serranos_, -mountaineer killers; because these people when they come down to the -coast eat large quantities of them, on account, perhaps, of their -cheapness: they bring on intermittent fevers, dysentery, &c. The _piña_, -pine-apple, is not cultivated in Lima, but brought from the neighbouring -valleys, where the climate is hotter. It does not thrive well, but it -certainly would if a little care were taken of the plants during the -season when the easterly winds blow; for these winds are often very -sharp after passing over the Cordilleras. The date does not flourish in -Lima, owing to the same cause. - -The orchards here, unlike those of Europe, are always beautiful; -excepting the foreign fruit trees, which give a wintry appearance when -their branches become naked by the falling of the leaves, all the others -are evergreens, and appear in the pompous garb of spring during the -whole year. The new leaves take possession of their inheritance before -the death of their predecessors; and the inflorescence and -fructification in many trees follow the example of the leaf. The highly -rich green of the banana and plantain, their enormous leaves rustling -with every breeze, and discovering their pendent bunches of fruit; the -orange tree enamelled with green and white and gold; the pomegranate -with its crimson bell; the shady chirimoya breathing aromas to the -evening breeze; the tripping granadilla stretching from tree to tree, -and begging support for its laden slender branches; the luxuriant vine -creeping over trellises, and hiding under its cooling leaves the -luscious grape--are beauties certainly not to be surpassed; but these, -and all these, are found in every garden in the valley through which the -Rimac meanders. - -The flower gardens here contain most of the varieties seen in our -gardens in England, excepting the family of ranunculuses and tulips, -neither of which did I ever see in South America; indeed, the climate is -so favourable to all kinds of vegetation, where water can be procured -for irrigation, that little care is required; but less than what is -necessary is usually bestowed. The ladies are passionately fond of -flowers, and will give very high prices for them. I have known a white -lily, a little out of season, sold for eight dollars; and good hyacinths -for two or three dollars each; and I am certain that a clever gardener -and florist, who would take to Lima a stock of seeds and roots, would -very soon amass a considerable fortune. I have observed that the -generality of the flowers of indigenous plants are yellow; and it is a -common saying, _oro en la costa, plata en la sierra_, gold on the coast, -silver in the mountains, where the general colour of wild flowers is -white. The _floripondio_ is very much admired by many for its fragrance: -it partakes of that of the lily; the tree is bushy, and grows about ten -feet high. The flowers are white, each about eight inches long, bell -shaped, and hang in clusters: one tree will scent a large garden; but if -there are more the smell is overpowering, and produces headache. The -_suche_ is a great spreading tree, and is filled with clusters of -flowers, each about two inches in diameter, which are the largest kind, -and others about an inch: they are bell-shaped, and of a fleshy -substance; some are white, others yellow, and others of a pink colour; -all are very fragrant. The _aroma_ bears a number of round yellow -flosculous flowers, deserving their name, for they are most delicately -fragrant. - -The inhabitants of Lima have many dishes peculiar to the place. The -Spanish _olla podrida_, called _puchero_, is found almost on every -table: it is composed of beef, mutton, fowl, ham, sausage, and smoked -meats, mixed with casava root, sweet potatoe, cabbage, turnips and -almost any vegetables, a few peas, and a little rice--these are all well -boiled together, and form the standing family dish: bread or vermicelli -soup is made from the broth. _Lahua_ is a thick porridge from the flour -of maize boiled with meat, particularly fresh pork or turkey, and highly -seasoned with the husks of the ripe capsicum. _Carapulca_ consists of -dried potatoes, nuts, or garbansas, parched and bruised, and afterwards -boiled to a thick consistency with meat, like the lahua. _Pepian_ is -made from rice flour, and partakes of the ingredients of the lahua and -the pepian; it is a very favourite dish, and the natives say, that on -being presented to the pope by an American cook, he exclaimed, _felice -indiani, qui manducat pepiani_! _Chupi_, which is made by cooking -potatoes, cheese and eggs together, and afterwards adding fried fish, is -a favourite dish, not only on days of abstinence, but during the whole -year. Guinea pigs, _cuis_, make a very delicate dish; they are roasted, -and afterwards stewed with a great quantity of capsicum pods, pounded to -the consistency of paste: sometimes potatoes, bruised nuts, and other -ingredients are added. This is the favourite _picante_, and to my taste -is extremely delicate. Many more dishes, peculiar to the country, are -seen on the tables, all of which are seasoned with a profusion of lard, -and not a small quantity of garlic and capsicum. - -I have mentioned dried potatoes--they are thus prepared: small potatoes -are boiled, peeled, and then dried in the sun, but the best are those -dried by the severe frosts on the mountains; they will keep for any -length of time, and when used require to be bruised and soaked. If -introduced as a vegetable substance in long sea voyages, I think the -potatoe thus prepared would be found wholesome and nourishing. The dried -potatoe is sometimes ground into flour; this is called chuno, and is -used to make a kind of porridge, either with or without meat. - -The maize, whilst green, is prepared in the same manner, by boiling the -cobs, cutting off the grains and drying them; this is called chochoca, -and is cooked like the chuno. - -Great quantities of pumpkins and gourds are eaten, and form the -principal part of the vegetable food of the poor classes; they are -large, plentiful and cheap, and will keep nearly the whole year if -placed in a dry room. Maize and beans, _frijoles_, are in general use -among the lower classes, indeed I may say among all classes, but they -are the common food of the slaves: the bean is considered very -nutritious, and those who have been accustomed to eat it prefer it to -any other vegetable, and use it as an equivalent for animal food. - -An abundance of sweetmeats is eaten in South America, more, I believe, -than in any other country, and particularly in Lima, where there is such -a variety of fruit, and such plenty of sugar; but there is a great -defect in the preserves, which are always too sweet, either from a -superabundance of sugar, or by destroying the flavour of the fruit -before it is preserved; the citron and shaddock, which have a taste so -agreeable and even powerful, always lose it when preserved. A paste is -made by pounding together equal weights of blanched almonds and sugar; -it is then packed in chip boxes, and will keep for a long time; by -dissolving a small quantity in water, an excellent substitute for milk -is formed, which is very palatable with tea, and would be found useful -in long voyages. - -The usual breakfast hour at Lima is eight o'clock; they seldom take more -than a cup of thick chocolate with toast, and a glass of cold water -afterwards; or sometimes a little boiled mutton, fried eggs, ham, or -sausage. The dinner hour is one o'clock. It is a very plentiful meal, -and may indeed be considered the only one during the day; soup and -_puchero_ are generally the first dishes, the rest come to table -indiscriminately, and fish is not unfrequently the last, excepting -sweetmeats, after which a glass of cold water is always drunk. Coffee is -often brought in immediately after dinner; but in the higher classes the -company rise from table and adjourn to another room, where coffee and -liquors are placed. Fruit is commonly introduced between the services, -as it is considered more wholesome to eat it then than afterwards. In -the evening a cup of coffee or chocolate is taken, or a glass of -lemonade, pine-apple water, almond milk, or some other refreshing drink, -and among the higher circles chocolate and ices are served up. - -The following account of the diseases prevalent in Lima is from Dr. -Unanue:-- - -"Heat and humidity are the two great causes of disease in this climate; -the first predisposes and the second excites it. The suavity of the -climate promotes the pleasures of Venus, and produces those of Ceres, -and both contribute to enervate and relax the tone of the human frame. -The first symptoms of debility present themselves in the digestive -organs, and many infants, constitutionally weak, die of convulsions -produced by indigestion: epileptic affections are very common when -children begin to eat ordinary food. Young people suffer much from -cholics, particularly in autumn, owing to the debility of the stomach, -caused by excessive transpiration; indeed the inhabitants of Lima are so -well aware of the weakness of their digestive organs, that they -attribute every indisposition to _empacho_, indigestion. Owing to the -same constitutional weakness of the stomach, youth are very apt to -become afflicted with phthisis and asthma, and many who escape from -these affections, if they indulge their passions, are afterwards borne -down by obstructions of the abdominal viscera and dropsies, which, owing -to the dampness of the climate, are incurable. The functions of the -internal and external vessels becoming inverted, those being surrounded -by a body of water, these augment it incessantly by absorbing an -abundance from the humid atmosphere. Lima is often called _el pais de -los viejos_, the country of old people, because they generally live -abstemiously, and instances of extreme longevity are not uncommon." - -An extract from medical observations made by Dr. Unanue, in the year -1799, may serve to convey an idea of the particular diseases prevalent -during the different seasons, beginning with the month of January, at -which time the summer solstice commences. - -"In January the small pox made its appearance, hemorrhages and bilious -diarrhoeas were common; these were followed by eruptive fevers in -February. During this and the succeeding month violent catarrhs and -coughs were prevalent, particularly among children, and those adults who -were affected with asthma suffered very much. In some years, when the -summers have been oppressively warm, copious perspirations and -_lipirias_ (cholera morbus) have been known to afflict many persons, but -they were not observed in 1799. - -"During March, April, and the beginning of Autumn, intermittent fevers -were very common, particularly the tertian, often accompanied with -dysentery; in May and the beginning of June dry and violent coughs were -observed, that produced an irritation of the throat and sometimes small -ulcers. - -"During July quinsies afflicted several people, and cutaneous eruptions -(exanthemata milliaria) were frequent, intestinal inflammations and -dysentery were also prevalent; and during the months of August and -September pulmonic inflammations and pleurisies were frequent. - -"Inflammations of the lungs were common during the month of October, as -also bilious diarrhoea; during this month the autumnal tertian began to -disappear; in November many died of the dysentery, and cutaneous -eruptions were very common. Out of 4229 patients received into the -hospital of San Andres this year 317 died." - -I have observed that syphilis is never very virulent in Lima and on the -coasts of Peru, but in the interior, particularly in cold situations, -it is more prevalent and more severe. - -_Berrugas_, warts of a peculiar kind, are common in some of the valleys -of the coast. They are supposed to be caused either by drinking or being -washed by the waters of certain rivers. The first symptoms are most -excruciating pains in the legs, thighs and arms (the parts where the -warts generally make their appearance), which frequently last for one or -even several months. When the warts begin to appear the pain is -relieved, and when they burst a large quantity of blood is discharged, -the pain ceases, and the patient recovers. No medicines are ever -administered for this disease, the natives believing that patience is -the only remedy. They carefully keep themselves warm, and avoid wetting -themselves, because it often produces spasms, and sometimes death. - -In 1803 a new disease made its appearance during the summer in the -valley of Huaura, and proved mortal to many individuals, particularly -indians and negroes, to whom it seemed to be almost confined; for few or -no white people were infected by it. The first appearance was a small -pustule, the centre depressed, bearing a small purple spot; as it -extended, several other small pustules arose on the edges of the -original one, filled with a limpid fluid; these pustules increased to a -large size, having the resemblance of blisters raised by burning. If an -incision were made in the part affected, no blood flowed, nor did the -patient feel the operation; the flesh had a spongy appearance, and a -very pale red colour. If not relieved, the patient usually died between -the fifth and tenth day, and sometimes earlier. The method of cure -adopted was the total extraction of the diseased part, and the -application of a poultice. This disease was called by the natives _grano -de la peste_, pest pimple. - -The _uta_ is another disease known in some of the valleys of Peru. It is -supposed to proceed from the sting of a small insect; however the fact -has never been ascertained. The first appearance is a small, hard, red -tumour; this bursts, and the fluid it contains produces an incurable -sore, which gradually extends, and at last occasions the most aggravated -sufferings, till death brings relief to the afflicted patient. - -I shall conclude my account of Lima with some observations on its -commerce, particularly that part which is interesting to British -manufacturers. - -Callao being the principal port of Peru, and the only one denominated -_abilitado general_, or free for the ingress and egress of vessels to -and from every part of the Spanish dominions, Lima was consequently the -general market for all foreign as well as home commerce, and here the -traders from the provinces repaired with such productions as were -destined for exportation, as well as to purchase a stock of manufactured -goods, either foreign or from other parts of the country, besides such -raw materials as were necessary for mining tools and those of husbandry. - -Owing to the diversity of the climates in the Vice-royalty of Peru, all -kinds of European manufactured goods find a ready sale; those from -England are mostly preferred to any other: indeed many can only be -procured from that country; and the supplying of those by Great Britain -to a population of a million and a half of people must be considered as -a means of extending her commerce, and the decided preference given to -them must be highly flattering as well as beneficial to the British -nation. - -On entering a house in Lima, or in any other part of Peru that I -visited, almost every object reminded me of England; the windows were -glazed with English glass--the brass furniture and ornaments on the -commodes, tables, chairs, &c. were English--the chintz or dimity -hangings, the linen and cotton dresses of the females, and the cloth -coats, cloaks, &c. of the men were all English:--the tables were covered -either with plate or English earthenware, and English glass, knives, -forks, &c.; and even the kitchen utensils, if of iron, were English; in -fine, with very few exceptions, all was either of English or South -American manufacture. Coarse cottons, nankeens, and a few other articles -were supplied by the Philippine company. Spain sent some iron, broad -cloth, Barcelona prints, linen, writing paper, silks, and ordinary -earthenware. From the Italians they had silks and velvets; from the -French, linens, lace, silks and broad cloth; from Germany, linens -(platillas), common cutlery and glass; every thing else was either -English or of home manufacture. - -I do not hesitate to assert, that goods of a superior quality always -meet with early purchasers, because those who can afford to buy foreign -goods always inquire for the best; and the more modern and fashionable -the goods are, the better and the quicker is the sale. Thick broad -cloths, in imitation of the Spanish San Fernando cloth, are best for the -interior; and thin fine cloth, in imitation of the French sedan cloth, -is most suitable for Lima. The Manchester broad flannels, either twilled -or plain, with a long nap, dark and light blue, crimson and pink, -bright green, pale yellow, brown, white, and any shades or half colours, -are very saleable commodities, either on the coast or in the interior. -Kerseymeres, cords, and velveteens; Irish linens and common lawns cut -into pieces of eight yards each, in imitation of the French bretagnes -and estopillas; coarse linen in pieces of about thirty yards, imitating -the German platillas; and fine Scotch cambrics, as well as table linen, -sheeting, &c., meet a great demand. All kinds of cotton goods, -particularly stockings, muslins, and fashionable prints of delicate -colours; also dark blue prints with small white sprigs, &c., which are -used for mourning by every class, are in common use among the poor; -besides dimities, jeans, and white quilts (Marseilles), which are all -very saleable articles. Silks, damask (crimson), ribbons, particularly -narrow, and good velvets (black), are in great demand. Glass and -earthenware, all kinds of hardware and cutlery (few forks), mechanics' -tools, large hammers and wedges for the miners, spades, shovels, -pickaxes, &c.; quicksilver, in the mining districts, also iron and -steel, are saleable articles. Trinkets are not in much estimation, -because the inhabitants seldom wear any that are not of gold and -precious gems. Hats are well made in Lima, and the materials are of the -best quality. Shoes and boots are another manufacture in which the -natives excel, and their materials are tolerably good. The cordovans -from Lambayeque are excellent. Drugs are extremely dear, for even those -produced in different parts of the Spanish colonies are generally first -sent to Europe, and thence back again, except, in Lima, the chinchona -bark, sarsaparilla, copaiva balsam, guaiacum, and some others, the -produce of Peru. - -I shall have occasion to mention, at different places, the utility that -would result from the introduction of machinery, not only as it was -evinced at the date of my narrative, but as rendered more apparent by -the subsequent political changes of the country. - -In Lima, an intelligent Spaniard, Don Matias de la Reta, established -looms and other machinery for weaving cotton sail-cloth, and some coarse -articles of the same material. At his death the manufactory was -abandoned; but there is no doubt that the plan would have answered well -had the projector lived. At present (1824) a pottery or manufactory of -common earthenware would be a very lucrative establishment; as also, a -work for ordinary glass ware; because the materials for both may be had -conveniently, and of good qualities: the consumption of both is very -great, and their prices comparatively high. Indeed, if the introduction -of either will pay the freight and other indispensable charges, it is -evident that a speculation of this kind could not fail. All the -earthenware for ordinary purposes is manufactured here; but it is heavy, -and very clumsy: however, as it is, large quantities are sent to -different parts of the country. - -Good steady mechanics--carpenters, cabinet makers, millwrights, -blacksmiths, whitesmiths, silversmiths, watchmakers or repairers, -shoemakers, and tailors, would meet with constant work and good wages; -but it would be advisable for each artificer to take a supply of tools -with him. I mention this on account of the changes that have occurred in -the governments; because during the colonial system, a foreigner was -liable to be ordered to leave the country at a very short notice; but, -notwithstanding that risk, several were established in Lima in 1808 and -the succeeding years, and were never interrupted. - -The subjoined is an account of the prices of some articles, which will -convey an idea of the profits derived by the merchants, principally old -Spaniards, before the revolutions in America affected this market. - - - Good broad cloth, per yard, from 18 to 20 dollars.--Kerseymeres - from 7 to 10--Broad coloured flannels from 3 to 4--Fine Irish Linen - from 3 to 4--Fine German platillas from 1½ to 3--Ordinary German - platillas from 1 to 2--Fine French lawn from 3 to 4--Fine French - cambric from 10 to 12--Printed calicoes 2 to 3½--Fine printed - calicoes from 3 to 4½--Fine muslins from 3 to 5--Fine cambric - muslins from 3 to 5--Silk velvet from 10 to 12--Fine velveteens 2½ - to 4. Blue and white earthenware plates, per dozen, from 12 to 18 - dollars--Common German half-pint glasses from 8 to 12--Common - knives with bone handles from 10 to 12--Common knives with wood - handles from 6 to 8. - - -Much has been said by every writer on South America respecting the -Spanish colonial restrictions. They certainly were, like all others, -most severe, until experience proved to the government of the parent -state, that it was not the welfare of the individuals or of particular -companies or corporations employed in commerce, that could enrich the -government. The Conde de Aranda, when prime minister in Spain, was well -apprized of this truth, and what was really sound policy in him was -called liberality. However, as Peru was at so great a distance from -Europe, she never was so much oppressed as those colonies on the -opposite side of the new world. - -The returns from this market have been gold, silver, and tin; bark, -cocoa, cotton, vicuña wool, sheep wool, and some drugs. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - Visit to Pisco....Town of Pisco....Bay of Pisco....Curious - Production of Salt...._Huano_...._Huanaes_....Vineyards, - Brandy....Vineyards _de las Hoyas_....Fruits....Chilca, Village of - Indians....Leave Lima, Road to Chancay....Pasamayo House...._Nina - de la Huaca_....Maize, Cultivation Use of _Huano_....Hogs....On the - produce of Maize....Different kinds of....Time of Harvesting.... - Uses of....Chicha of....Sugar of....Town of Chancay...._Colcas_ - ....Town of Huacho...._Chacras_ of the Indians....On the Character - of the Native Indians....Refutation of what some Authors have said - of....Manners and Customs of....Tradition of Manco Capac....Ditto - Camaruru....Ditto Bochica....Ditto Quitzalcoatl....These Traditions - favourable to the Spaniards....Government of Manco Capac.... - Representation of the Death of the Inca....Feast of Corpus Christi - at Huacho....Indian Dances....Salinas. - - -During my residence in Lima, I availed myself of an invitation to visit -the city of Pisco, about fifty leagues to the southward. This place, -although it bears the name of a city, is only a miserable village. The -present town is situated about two leagues to the northward of the old -one. It was sacked in 1624 by the Dutch pirate, James Hermit Clark--in -1686 by Edward David--and in 1687 it was entirely demolished by an -earthquake; after which, the new town was begun to be built, about a -league from the shore. - -The bay is very large, and the anchorage good, but the landing is -difficult near the small battery, erected for the purpose of protecting -the landing place; it is better however at _las Palmas_, about two -leagues higher up the bay, called _la Paraca_, and fresh water, which is -very difficult to procure near the fort, may be had here. At the -southern extremity of the bay, beneath a bed of broken indurated clay -and sand stones, a stratum of salt is found, extending from fifty to one -hundred yards from the sea, and sometimes more. On removing the upper -covering of sand, the broken stones and the clay, the salt is -discovered, forming a kind of small white columns, about three or four -inches long, the upper part curling, as it were, and hanging downwards -again, the whole appearing somewhat like a cauliflower. It is extremely -white, and composed of transparent filaments not so large as a human -hair. I examined these slender bodies with a good lens; they all -appeared perfectly cylindrical and hollow, closely placed together, but -not attached to each other, for by a slight pressure they separated, -assuming the appearance of asbestos. The salt is as palatable as the -common culinary salt, dissolves slowly in a large quantity of cold -water, and is not at all deliquescent from absorption. It is seldom used -by the inhabitants, except when there is a scarcity of salt from Huacho. - -Some small islands at the entrance to the bay of Pisco are famous for -the manure which they produce, and which is embarked and carried to -different parts of the coast, and often into the interior on the backs -of mules and llamas. The quantity of this manure is enormous, and its -qualities are truly astonishing; of this I shall have occasion to speak -when treating of the cultivation of maize at Chancay. Several small -vessels are constantly employed to carry it off; some of the cuts, where -embarkation is convenient, are from forty to fifty feet deep, and their -bottom is yet considerably above the level of the sea. - -This valuable production appears to be the excrement of sea birds, -immense numbers of which frequent and breed on the islands; and the -accumulation is doubtless owing to the total absence of rain. It is of a -pale brown colour when dry, and easily reducible to powder; when fresh -it has rather a reddish appearance; the surface stratum for a foot deep -is whitish, and contains feathers, bones of birds, and shells of eggs. -It is asserted, that the _huano_, the name by which this production is -known, is certainly fossil earth; but the quality of the upper stratum, -which although at first white, gradually inclines to yellow, being -incontestibly the excrement of birds, and equal to the other, the -subject seems to demand a stricter scrutiny. - -A species of birds frequenting these islands in great abundance is -called _huanay_: hence the original name of the matter now used as -manure. The bird is of black plumage, is as large as the seagull, and -breeds during the whole year, with this peculiarity, that each nest, -being only a hole in the huano, contains a fledged bird, an unfledged -one, and one egg; whence it appears, that there is a constant -succession, without the old birds undergoing the confinement of brooding -their eggs. The indians take many of the young birds, salt them, and -consider them a great delicacy; however they have a strong fishy taste. - -The principal produce of the neighbourhood of Pisco, including the -valleys of Chincha and Cañete, is vines, from which about one hundred -and fifty thousand gallons of brandy are annually made. The brandy is -kept in earthen jars, each holding about eighteen gallons. The vessels -are made in the neighbourhood; their shape is that of an inverted cone, -and the inside is coated with a species of naptha. The brandy, -generally called pisco, from the name of the place where it is made, is -of a good flavour, and is not coloured, like the French brandy. One -kind, made from the muscadine grape, and called _aguardiente de Italia_, -is very delicate, possessing the flavour of Frontignac wine, and is much -esteemed. Little wine is made, and that little is of a very inferior -quality; it is generally thick and sweet, owing perhaps to the juice of -the grape being boiled for a considerable time before it is fermented. - -Near to Pisco is a vineyard called _de las hoyas_, of the pits, or -holes; these are excavations made originally by the indians, or -aborigines, who being well versed in agriculture, cleared away the sand, -and opened a species of pits, in search of humidity. This immense labour -was occasioned by the difficulty or impossibility of procuring water -from the river Cañete for irrigation. The original use of the hoyas was -perhaps the growth of maize or camotes; but vines are now planted in -them, which produce most abundantly, requiring no other cultivation or -care than merely pruning, for the branches are allowed to stretch along -the sands. - -The vine planters monopolized the making of spirituous liquors in Peru. -They procured from the King of Spain, Carlos III., a royal order, -prohibiting the manufacture of any ardent spirit in Peru, except from -the grape; and the importation of spirits subjected the importers to -very severe penalties; for having also represented to the pope, Clement -XIV., the destructive qualities of any other spirituous liquors in Peru, -the royal order was backed by a papal excommunication, fulminated -against all contrafactors and contraventors. - -Dates abound, and when properly dried are superior to those of the -coasts of Barbary. Here are many prolific plantations of olives; the -figs are also very good, and pine-apples prosper well. - -In the valley of Chincha are several large sugar plantations; two belong -to the Count de Montemar y Monteblanco, and one near the coast, called -Caucato, to Don Fernando Maso, where there is an extensive manufactory -of soap. The number of slaves on the plantations of Chincha, Pisco, and -Cañete is estimated at about eight thousand. - -Between Pisco and Lima there is an indian village, called Chilca; it is -on a sandy plain, devoid of water as well as vegetation; the natives -often procure water by digging pits in the sand, but these sometimes -fail them, and they are then obliged to fetch this indispensably -necessary article from the Cañete river, a distance of five leagues. -The principal occupation of the inhabitants is fishing; they are very -averse to the society of the whites, so much so that they allow none to -reside in their village; even their parish priest is an indian cacique, -a native of the village, whose education, and the expences of his -ordination were paid by a subscription raised by them for the purpose. - -Five leagues to the northward of Lima is the small port of Ancon, the -residence of a few indian fishermen; the anchorage is good, and the -landing is excellent. A few large fig trees grow on the sand, near the -beach, the fruit of which is extremely delicate. - -The road leading from Ancon to Chancay is over very deep sand; some -parts of the road are level, while others lead over hills of sand, quite -bare in summer or during the dry season: but scarcely do the _garuas_, -fogs, make their appearance, when the whole is covered with the most -luxuriant vegetation; at which time the cattle is driven on them from -the neighbouring farms. - -Near to Chancay, before crossing the small river, stands the old family -residence of the Marquis of Villafuerte, almost in ruins; this is the -case with many of the country seats belonging to the nobility of Lima, -who have no idea of country pleasures, nor of rural beauties. Many of -the principal country houses are built on the ruins of some ancient -building of the indians: these people never encroached on cultivated -lands, but fixed their residence either on the declivities where they -could not procure water for irrigation, or on the tops of the hills; -which is a convincing proof of their great economy, and leads us to -surmise that the population of this country was very extensive before -the conquest. This estate, called Pasamayo, is principally destined to -the breeding of hogs for the Lima market. - -Pasamayo house, standing on the top of a hill, commands a noble prospect -of the sea, as well as of the valley of Chancay, in which there is a -small parish of indians, called Aucayama, most delightfully situated: in -1690 the tribute roll contained three thousand seven hundred indians, -but it is at present (1805) composed of only one hundred and seventy. Of -this decrease in the indian population I shall have occasion to speak -afterwards, when at Huacho. The valley of Chancay contains some fine -plantations of cane, and sugar manufactories; as also extensive pastures -of lucern for cattle; and very large quantities of maize and beans are -grown in the neighbourhood. - -This valley is the birth place of the celebrated _Niña de la huaca_, -young lady of the huaca, taking her name from the huaca, the farm where -she was born. She stood six feet high, which was a very extraordinary -stature, as the Peruvian females are generally low. Extremely fond of -masculine exercises, nothing was more agreeable to her than to assist in -apprehending runaway slaves, or in taking the robbers who sometimes -haunt the road between this place and Lima. She would mount a spirited -horse, _al uso del pais_, astride, arm herself with a brace of pistols, -and a _hasta de rejon_, a lance, and with three or four men she would -scour the environs of the valley and the road to Lima, where she became -more dreaded than a company of _encapados_, or mounted police officers. -I visited her at her residence, and found her better instructed in -literature than the generality of the native females; she was frank, -obliging, and courteous, managing her own estate, a sugar plantation, to -the best advantage, superintending the whole of the business herself. - -The quantity of maize cultivated in the ravine, _quebrada_, and on the -plains of Chancay, is very great; but the cultivators are indebted to -the huano from the islands of Pisco and Chincha for their abundant -harvest. I have seen the fields quite yellow, from the parched state of -the plants, when they were about a foot high, having four or five -leaves each, at which time they are manured, by opening a hole at the -root of every three or four plants, for they grow in clusters of this -number, and putting into it, with the fingers, about half an ounce of -huano, which is covered with a little earth, thrown on by the foot. The -field is then irrigated as soon as possible; and in the course of ten or -twelve days the plants will be more than a yard high, of a most -luxuriant green colour, and the stalks pregnant with the cobs of corn. A -second quantity of huano is now applied in the same manner, and the -ground again irrigated; and thus the most abundant crops are produced, -yielding from one thousand to twelve hundred fold. The cobs are -frequently fourteen and even sixteen inches long, well set with grain, -and the grain very large. Beans are often planted with the maize, by -which means a double crop is produced; but in this case the maize is not -so prolific, nor are the beans so good, because the best quality of the -bean is grown without irrigation, being sown long before the _garuas_ -disappear, and being ripe earlier than the maize. - -Chancay is famous for the breeding and feeding of hogs for the Lima -Market: the hogs are all black, with little or almost no hair, short -snouts, small pointed ears, and of a low stature; but they become so -amazingly fat, that they can scarcely walk; and as their value depends -on the quantity of fat which they yield, it is the principal object of -the feeder to bring them to this state as soon as possible. When killed, -the whole of the body is fried, and the fat is sold as lard for culinary -purposes. The consumption of lard in every part of Peru is enormous, and -it is principally owing to the abundance of maize that the _hacendados_, -farmers, enjoy this lucrative trade. - -Maize grows on the ridges of the Cordilleras where the mean temperature -is about 48° of Fahrenheit, and on the plains or in the valleys where it -is 80°,--where the climate is adverse to rye and barley, and where wheat -cannot be produced, either owing to the heat or the cold, this grain, -whose farinaceous property has the greatest volume, produces its seed -from 150 to 1200 fold. Thus it may be said to be the most useful grain -to man; and it is peculiarly adapted to the country in which it was -planted by the provident hand of nature. On this account, the maize -occupies in the scale of the various kinds of cultivation a much greater -extent on the new continent than that of wheat does on the old. - -It has been erroneously stated, that maize was the only species of -grain known to the Americans before the conquest. In Chile, according to -Molina, the _mager_, a species of rye, and the _tuca_, a species of -barley, were both common before the fifteenth century; and as there was -neither rye nor barley, it is evident that if they were common even -after the conquest, and not European grain, that they were indigenous. -In Peru the bean and quinua were common before the conquest, for I have -frequently found them in the huacas, preserved in vases of red -earthenware. Some writers have pretended that the maize, which is also a -native of Asia, was brought over by the Spaniards to their colonies in -the new world. This is so evidently false, that it does not deserve -contradiction: indeed, if the aborigines were destitute of maize, beans, -plantains, and all those articles of food which have been said to be -introduced by the Europeans, a new query would arise--on what did the -numerous population of indians feed? For what purpose did they cultivate -such large tracts of land, and why procure water for irrigation on the -coasts of Peru with such immense labour, and such extraordinary -ingenuity? Why did the Peruvians always build their houses in such -sterile situations as labour could never have made fertile? - -I have enumerated five varieties of maize in Peru; one is known by the -name of _chancayano_, which has a large semi-transparent yellow grain; -another is called _morocho_, and has a small yellow grain of a horny -appearance; _amarillo_, or the yellow, has a large yellow opaque grain, -and is more farinaceous than the two former varieties: _blanco_, white; -this is the colour of the grain, which is large, and contains more -farina than the former; and _cancha_, or sweet maize. The last is only -cultivated in the colder climates of the _sierra_, mountains; it grows -about two feet high, the cob is short, and the grains large and white: -when green it is very bitter; but when ripe and roasted it is -particularly sweet, and so tender, that it may be reduced to flour -between the fingers. In this roasted state it constitutes the principal -food of the _serranos_, mountaineers, of several provinces. It is -considered a delicacy at Lima and all along the coast, and without a bag -full of this roasted maize a serrano never undertakes a journey. It is -sometimes roasted, and reduced to coarse flour, like the ulpa in Chile, -and is then called _machica_. - -According to the climate, and the kind of maize, its state of -perfection or ripeness varies very much--from fifty days to five months. -The morocho is ripe within sixty days in climates that are very hot and -humid, as for instance at Guayaquil, and on the coast of Choco: the -blanco within three months, in the vicinity of Lima and on the Peruvian -coast, _valles_: and the chancayano in about five months. The last is -the most productive, and the best food for cattle, poultry, &c. - -Although wheat and barley are cultivated in different parts of Peru, -maize is generally considered the principal harvest; and where barley is -even commoner than maize, (as in some of the more elevated provinces of -the interior, and where it constitutes the principal article of food for -the indians) they all greatly prefer the maize, if attainable, and will -always exert themselves to cultivate a small patch of ground for this -grain. Thus, where it is not used for daily food, or calculated upon as -an article of trade, it is considered as a species of luxury. Among the -indians and poor people on the coast it supplies the place of bread; for -which purpose it is merely boiled in water, and is then called _mote_. -Puddings are also made of it, by first taking off the husk. This -operation is performed by putting a quantity of wood ashes into water -with the maize, exposing it to a boiling heat, and washing the grain in -running water, when the husks immediately separate themselves from the -grain, which is afterwards boiled in water, and reduced to a paste by -bruising it on a large stone, somewhat hollowed in the middle, called a -_batan_. The bruiser, or _mano_, handle, is curved on one side, and is -moved by pressing the ends alternately. I have been the more particular -in describing this rude mill, because it was undoubtedly used by the -ancient Peruvians, having been found buried with them in their huacas; -and because it may serve some curious investigator in comparing the -manners of these people with those of other nations. By the same -implements they pulverized their ores for the extraction of gold and -silver; and to this day many of their batanes of obsidian and porphyry -remain near to the mountain in the neighbourhood of Cochas; but the -bruisers have never been discovered. That these stones were used for the -purpose just mentioned is obvious, from the relics of a gold mine being -here visible; besides, I have several times found fragments of gold ore -in this place. - -After the paste is made from the boiled maize it is seasoned with salt -and an abundance of capsicum, and a portion of lard is added: a -quantity of this paste is then laid on a piece of plantain leaf, and -some meat is put among it, after which it is rolled up in the leaf, and -boiled for several hours. This kind of pudding is called _tamal_, a -_Quichua_ word, which inclines me to believe, that it is a dish known to -the ancient inhabitants of the country. - -Sweet puddings are made from the green corn, by cutting the grains from -the cob, bruising them, and adding sugar and spices, after which they -are boiled or baked. _Choclo_, being the Quichua name for the green -cobs, these puddings, if boiled in the leaves that envelop the cob, are -called _choclo tandas_, bread of green maize, and also _umitas_. - -This useful grain is prepared for the table in many different ways, and -excellent cakes and rusks are made from the flour, procured from the -grain by various means. A thick kind of porridge, called _sango_, is -made by boiling the flour in water, which constitutes the principal food -of the slaves on the farms and plantations. Another sort, similar to -hasty-pudding, is common in many places, but particularly in Lima; it is -called _masamorra_, and the people of Lima are often ironically -denominated _masamorerros_, eaters of masamorra. The grain is bruised -and mixed with water; it is thus allowed to ferment until it become -acid, when it is boiled, and sweetened with sugar. It resembles Scotch -sowins. - -A great quantity of maize is also made into a fermented beverage, called -_chicha_. The grain is allowed to germinate, and is completely malted; -it is then boiled with water, and the liquor ferments like ale or -porter; but no other ingredients are added to it. - -Chicha is the favourite drink of all the indians, and when well made it -is very intoxicating. In some parts of Peru the natives believe that -fermentation will not take place if the malted grain be not previously -subjected to mastication; from this circumstance many old men and women -assemble at the house where chicha is to be made, and are employed in -chewing the _jora_, or malt. Having masticated a sufficient quantity -they lay the chewed substance in small balls, mouthfuls, on a calabash; -these are suffered to dry a little, after which they are mixed with some -newly made chicha while it is warm. When travelling I always inquired if -the chicha was _mascada_, chewed, and if it were I declined taking -any;--however, as the question seemed to express a dislike, I was often -assured it was not mascada when it probably was. No spirituous liquor is -extracted from it, on account of the prohibition. Two kinds of chicha -are usually made from the same grain--the first, called claro, is the -water in which the malt has been infused; this is drawn off, and -afterwards boiled. In taste it has some resemblance to cider. The second -kind is made by boiling the grain with the water for several hours, it -is then strained and fermented, and is called neto; the residue or -sediment found in the bottom of the jars is used in fermenting the dough -for bread, which when made of maize is called _arepa_; and that of -wheat, in the Quichua language, _tanda_. - -This beverage was well known to the ancient inhabitants before the -conquest; for I have drunk, at Patavilca and Cajamarca, chicha that had -been found interred in jars in the huacas, or burying places, where it -must have remained upwards of three centuries. Garcilaso de la Vega -relates, that the manufacture of intoxicating liquors, particularly the -_vinapu_ and _sora_, was prohibited by the Incas; and this part of Peru -was annexed to their government in the time of Pachacutec, the tenth -Inca of Peru. - -The Peruvians, as well as the Mexicans, made sugar from the green stalks -of the maize plant, and sold it in their markets--Cortes, in one of his -letters to the Emperor Charles V., speaks of it. At Quito, I have seen -the green canes brought to market, and have frequently observed the -indians sucking them as the negroes do the sugar cane. - -The town Villa de Chancay stands about a league and a half from the -Pasamayo river, and fifteen leagues from Lima. It was founded in 1563 by -the Viceroy Conde de Nieva, who intended to form a college and a -university here, but this intention was never fulfilled. It has a large -parish church, a convent of Franciscans, dedicated to San Diego, and a -hospital, managed by friars of San Juan de Dios. The town contains about -three hundred families, some of which are descendants of noblemen, -although perhaps by African favourites. - -Chancay is pleasantly situated, about a league from the sea; its port is -small, the anchorage bad, and the landing difficult. Its market is -abundant in fish, flesh-meat, vegetables, and fruit: of the latter -considerable quantities are carried to Lima; it is also famous for -delicate sweet cakes, called _biscochos_. This is the capital of a -district, which contains thirty-seven settlements, of different -climates, because part of it is mountainous. The subdelegado, or -political governor of the district, generally resides at Chancay, -besides whom there are two alcaldes or mayors annually elected in the -town. - -At a short distance is Torre blanca, the seat of the Conde de Torre -blanca, Marquis of Lara; and an excellent farm-house at Chancaillo; not -far from which, and near the sea, are the _colcas_, deep pits dug in the -sand. These pits have been surrounded with adobes, sun-dried bricks; and -they are reported to have been granaries belonging to the army of -Pachacutec, when this Inca was engaged in the conquest of the Chimu of -Mansichi. - -Fourteen leagues from Chancay stands the indian village Huacho; it is -situated in a delightful valley, watered by the Huaura, which rises in -the province of Cajatambo, and in its course to the sea irrigates more -than thirty thousand acres of land. The village contains about four -thousand inhabitants, all indians; it has a large parish church and -three small chapels, besides a chapel of ease at Lauriama, where mass is -celebrated on Sundays and festivals. The principal employment of the -natives is the cultivation of their _chacras_, small farms, cutting salt -at the salinas, fishing, and making straw hats, at which they are very -dexterous. The hats are not made of plat: they begin at the centre of -the crown, and continue the work by alternately raising one straw and -depressing another, inserting or taking out straws, as the shape -requires it, till the hat is finished. These hats are generally made -either of fine rushes which grow on swampy ground, or of _mocora_, the -produce of a palm tree, in the province of Lambayeque. - -The _chacras_, plots of ground distributed to the indians by the -government, and held during life, are supposed to be an equivalent for -the tribute; and indeed they are an excellent compensation, for the -produce is usually worth six times more than the sum paid, leaving at -least five-sixths for the expences or trouble of cultivation. To the -great credit of the indians no land is any where kept in better -condition, nor more attention paid to the crops, which generally consist -of wheat, maize, beans, camotes, yucas, pumpkins, potatoes, and many -kinds of vegetables. There is an abundance of fruit trees, the produce -of which is often carried to Lima. The hedges are almost entirely -composed of those trees, such as the orange, lime, guava, pacay, palta, -&c. In some places the vine and the granadilla are seen creeping about, -craving support for their slender branches, as if unable to sustain the -burthen of fruit they are destined to bear. The maguey is much -cultivated in the hedges; besides this destination it produces cordage -for general uses, and the flower stems growing twenty feet high serve -as beams for the houses, and other similar purposes; being, if kept dry, -of almost everlasting duration. - -I had an excellent opportunity here of observing the character, manners, -and customs of the indians, with whom I was very much pleased. They are -kind and hospitable, but timidity and diffidence make them appear -reserved and somewhat sullen. Their maxims are founded on their own -adage--convince me that you are really my friend, and rest secure: _has -ver que eres mi amigo, y hechate a dormir_. Whether this distrust be a -natural characteristic trait, or whether it be the result of the -privations they have suffered since the Spaniards became their masters, -it is difficult to decide; but at all events it surely cannot be called -a crime. - -The indians on the coast of Peru are of a copper colour, with a small -forehead, the hair growing on each side from the extremities of the -eyebrows; they have small black eyes; small nose, the nostrils not -protruding like those of the African; a moderately sized mouth, with -beautiful teeth; beardless chin (except in old age) and a round face. -Their hair is black, coarse, and sleek, without any inclination to curl; -the body is well proportioned, and the limbs well turned, and they have -small feet. Their stature is rather diminutive, but they are inclined to -corpulency, when they become inactive, and it is a common saying, that a -jolly person is _tan gordo como un cacique_, as fat as a cacique. The -perspiration from their bodies is acetous, which some have supposed to -be caused by a vegetable diet. In the colder climates, although in the -same latitude, the complexion of the indians is lighter, owing perhaps -to the cold; however, the Araucanians, who enjoy a much colder climate, -are of a dark copper colour. - -I shall here endeavour to refute some of the aspersions thrown by -several writers upon the character of the Peruvian indians, whom I hope -to place, in the estimation of unbiassed men, in a situation more -honourable to human nature than they have yet enjoyed; and thus one of -my principal objects for publishing this narrative will be obtained. - -M. Bouguer says, that "they are all extremely indolent, they are stupid, -they pass whole days sitting in the same place, without moving, or -speaking a single word." I believe I may state, that in all hot climates -an inclination to indolence is common, nay even natural; a hot climate -precludes bodily exertion, unless the cravings of nature are satisfied -with difficulty, and as this is not the case in Peru, half the vice, if -it be a vice, disappears at once; add to this, that they have no motive -to exertion above supplying the wants of nature--no stimulus--no market -for an excess of produce, or the supplying of artificial wants--and the -cause for indolence exists as necessarily as a cause for industry is -found where the contrary happens. If a climate demand only a shade from -the sun or a shelter from the rain, why should men build themselves -stately or close habitations? Where nature spontaneously produces the -requisite articles of food, competent to the consumption of the -inhabitants, why should they exert themselves to procure a superfluous -stock? and particularly where an introduction of new articles in -succession is entirely unknown. What to M. Bouguer and others has -appeared stupidity, perhaps deserves the name of indifference, the -natural result of possessing all the means for satisfying real wants, -and an ignorance of artificial ones. But if real stupidity be meant, I -must aver that I never observed it either among the wild tribes of -Arauco on the river Napo, or in those of the coasts of Choco. I -recollect very well an indian, called _Bravo_, who was accused at -Pomasqui of having stolen the mule which he had brought from the -valleys to the eastward of Quito, laden with fruit. At the moment the -accusation was laid before the alcalde, the indian threw his poncho or -mantle over the head of the mule, and then desired the challenger to say -of which eye his mule was blind? He answered, of the left. Then, said -the indian, taking off the poncho, this mule cannot be yours, because it -is blind of neither. That any beings endowed with speech should "sit -whole days without speaking a word," is indeed the acme of taciturnity; -but as M. Bouguer was perhaps ignorant of the language of the people he -describes, he may probably deserve the same compliment from them. I -found the Araucanians prone to talk; indeed eloquence is considered an -accomplishment among them, and extremely necessary among the _mapus_, or -chiefs. The Peruvians are neither silent in their meetings nor when -travelling; however, they have little inquisitiveness, nor do they break -out into soliloquys on the beauties of the surrounding scenery; but they -converse freely on common place topics, particularly with a white man, -if they find that he deigns to enter into conversation with them. -Several of the tribes in Archidona and Napo, who are in their free -state, certainly did not merit the accusation of dumb stupidity; for -although unacquainted with their languages, I tried to converse with -them in Quichua, aided by signs, and I really discovered more -intelligence among them than I had a right to expect. What is often -considered a step towards civilization or to social life, is a pastoral -one; but if we search for it in a country where animals capable of -domestication do not exist, we have no right to consider the inhabitants -as barbarous, because they are not possessed of flocks and herds; nor do -human beings deserve that epithet, who will share what they are -possessed of with a stranger; and such hospitality I have frequently -experienced. The kindness which these men show to the dog is no small -proof of their sensibility; they will take long journeys to procure one, -and value it as much as a lady esteems her lap dog. The utility of the -animal may perhaps be said to be the chief motive of the indian's -attachment; and what other motive has the shepherd or the herdsman? - -M. Bouguer continues, "they are totally indifferent to wealth and all -its advantages. One does not know what to offer them to procure their -services; it is in vain to offer money, they answer, that they are not -hungry." Wealth, in the general acceptation of the word, can procure no -advantages to men who have no means of disposing of it. Where there is -no market, money can purchase nothing; and where the natural wants are -abundantly supplied, and men's desires have not created artificial ones, -a market is superfluous and useless; but wherever the indians can -exchange the produce of the country they inhabit for whatever pleases -them, they are always anxious to do it. The Logroño indians trade with -the city of Cuenca; the Yumbos, Colorados, and Malabas with Quito; the -Chunchos, Pehuenches, Huilliches, and other tribes with Conception; the -Orejones with Huanuco; and numerous other tribes frequent the -settlements nearest to them, for the purpose of bartering their -commodities for others which are either useful or ornamental. Had M. -Bouguer offered them beads, hawks' bells, _machetes_, large knives, -bows, arrows, or poison for their darts, he would have obtained their -services. - -Dr. Robertson considers the indians to have been, at the time of the -conquest by the Spaniards, less improved and more savage than the -inhabitants of any part of the globe; but he afterwards limits this -charge to the rudest tribes; a limitation which was very necessary, for -the purpose of palliating what I cannot help believing to be a false -accusation. He could not mean the tribe of the Muysca indians, who have -left the fewest remains of their ingenuity, much less the Peruvians; and -in Mexico, some of their cities were equal to the finest in Spain, -according to the accounts given by Cortes, in his reports to the Emperor -Charles V. These reports, and the yet existing monuments of labour and -ingenuity, speak strongly in opposition to Robertson's statement. - -Ulloa says, "one can hardly form an idea of them different from what one -has of the brutes." Paul III. thought differently, when, by his -celebrated bull, he declared them worthy of being considered as human -beings. Ulloa might have said, with more truth, one can hardly form an -idea of treatment more brutal than that which many of them receive. In -the interior of Peru, as Ulloa speaks of the Peruvians, they were -degraded by the _mita_, a scion of the law of _repartirnientos_, -distribution of indians at the time of the conquest. By this law, the -men were forced from their homes and their families to serve for a -limited time an imperious master, who, if he approved of their labour, -took care to advance them a little money or some equivalent above what -their wages amounted to, and then obliged them to serve him until the -debt was liquidated. By this time another debt was contracted; and thus -it was that they became worse than slaves, except in the name. I have -been on several estates in different parts of Peru and Quito where the -annual stipend of an indian was no more than eighteen or twenty dollars; -with which pittance he had probably to maintain a wife and family, -besides paying his annual tribute of five or seven dollars and a half to -the King. The result was generally this:--the father died indebted to -his master, and his children were attached to the estate for the -payment. I would now ask Don Antonio Ulloa, who are the brutes? The hut -of one of these miserable indians consists of a few stones laid one upon -another, without any cement or mortar, thatched over with some long -grass or straw, which neither defends the unhappy inmates from the wind -nor the rain; and such is the case on the _paramos_, or bleak mountains. -One small room contains the whole family; their bed, a sheep skin or -two, their covering, the few clothes which they wear during the day, for -they have no others; their furniture, one or two earthen pots; and their -food, a scanty provision of barley. Who that is possessed of Christian -charity could witness this, and, instead of pitying their miserable -condition, call them brutes? If of these Ulloa says, "nothing disturbs -the tranquillity of their souls--equally insensible to disasters and to -prosperity," his observation is just. Born under the lash of an -imperious master, subject to the cruelty of an unfeeling mayordomo, they -had no disasters to fear, because their condition could not possibly be -rendered worse: with prosperity they had been totally unacquainted, it -was a blessing which had fled the land they were born to tread, or -rather it had been transferred to usurpers. - -Ulloa continues, "though half naked, they are as contented as a monarch -in his most splendid array." And does the Spaniard imagine, that these -miserable men are destitute of corporal feeling as well as of -intellectual sensibility? Does neither the bleak wind nor the cold rain -make any impression on them? Can content be the companion of the -half-naked, half-starved slave? It may be the gloom of despair that -hangs on their countenances; but it is certainly not the smile of -content. "Fear makes no impression on them, and respect as little." This -rhapsody is taken from the mouth of some Spanish master, as a palliative -of his own cruel conduct. "Their disposition is so singular, that there -are no means of influencing them, nor of rousing them from that -indifference, which is proof against all the endeavours of the wisest -persons. No expedient which can induce them to abandon that gross -ignorance, or lay aside that careless negligence which disconcert the -prudent, and disappoint the care of such as are attentive to their -welfare." If a man be so oppressed by a tyrannical and proud master, -that he finds himself lower in his estimation than the cattle which he -tends--so worn down with hunger, cold, and fatigue that he is only -anxious for the approach of night or of the grave,--what can rouse him -from that indifference or despondency which Señor Ulloa describes? Now -this has been the state of the South American indian on the large farms, -and in the _obrages_, manufactories. He dreads to finish his task early, -fearful of an increase of labour; he dares not appear cheerful, because -it might be called impudence by his overseer; he dares not be cleanly or -well clothed, because the first condition would be considered a -negligence of his duty to his master, or an attention to his own -comforts, and the second the result of theft. Then, what, let me ask, is -left, but misery in appearance, and wretchedness in reality? I well -remember what the pious Dr. Rodrigues said to me at Quito:--"Not half -the saints of the Romish Church, whose penitent lives placed them in the -calendar and on our altars, suffered greater privations, in the hopes -of enjoying everlasting glory, than one of these indians does through -fear of offending a cruel master, or for the purpose of increasing his -wealth." "How dear," added he, "has the religion of Christ cost these -once happy innocent creatures, and at what an usurious price it has been -sold to them by the proud pedlars who imported it. Oh! heaven," -exclaimed he, "till when! till when! hasta quando! hasta quando!" Well -too do I remember, when passing, with the Conde Ruis de Castilla, by the -cloth manufactory of San Juan, near Riobamba, an old indian woman, who -was tending a flock of sheep, and spinning with her distaff and spindle, -her head uncovered, her grey locks waving wildly in the wind, and her -nakedness not half concealed by an old coarse _anaco_, running to his -excellency, and on her knees exclaiming, with sobs and tears, "bless -your worship, I have seen seven viracochas who came to govern us, but my -poor children are still as naked and as hungry as I was when I saw the -first; but you will tell the King of this, and he will make me happy -before I die; he will let us leave San Juan; oh! taita ya, taita ya--oh! -my father, my father." - -"No expedient can induce them to lay aside their gross ignorance," says -el Señor Ulloa. What expedients have been tried? No schools have been -established for them; no persons employed to teach them, except an old -man or a friar, who once a week teaches them their prayers; and I can -safely aver, that thousands of indians employed by white people live and -die in their service without ever seeing any other book than the missal -on the altar, or their master's account book on his table. - -But let us turn from this loathing sight, and look to indians where they -are blessed with a greater portion of rational liberty, where they are -considered more on a level with their white neighbours, and have more -opportunities of evincing that they are not a disgrace to human nature, -nor beneath the merited name of men. - -The towns of Huacho and Eten, inhabited almost exclusively by indians, -may serve to pourtray the character of these people when in society. I -have already mentioned their employment at Huacho; to which may be added -the manufacture of many articles of cotton at Eten, such as napkins, -tablecloths, and counterpanes, some of which are remarkably fine, and -ornamented with curious figures interwoven, somewhat like damask. I have -seen their felt or frieze counterpanes sell for twenty or twenty five -dollars each. They also make large floor mats of _junco_, a species of -fine rush, and they manufacture hats. These are sufficient proofs, that -when an indian reaps the benefit of his labour he is not averse from -work. - -Ulloa has also mistated the character of the American indian, in -asserting, "that he will receive with the same indifference the office -of an alcalde or judge, as that of a hangman." An indian alcalde is as -proud of his _vara_, insignia of office, as any mayor of England is of -his gown, and always takes care to carry it along with him, and to exact -that respect which he considers due to him in his official capacity. -When the Oidor Abendaño passed through the indian town of Sechura, in -1807, he had neglected to take the necessary passport from the -Governador of Paita; the indian alcalde requested to see it; the Oidor -informed him that he had not one; adding, that he was one of the -ministers of the royal audience of Lima; and I, said the indian, am the -minister of justice of Sechura, and here my vara is of more importance -than your lordship's. I shall therefore insist on your returning to -Paita for your passport, or else of sending some one for it: two of my -bailiffs will wait on you, my lord, till it is procured, as well as for -the purpose of preventing you from pursuing your journey without it. - -The number of indians who receive holy orders, natives of the coast as -well as the interior, is a convincing proof that they are not destitute -of understanding, nor incapable of at least becoming literary -characters, if not learned men. Some have also shone at the bar, in the -audiences of Lima, Cusco, Chuquisaca, and Quito; among these was Manco -Yupanqui, of Lima, protector-general of indians, whom I knew. He was a -good Latin scholar, was well versed in the English and French languages, -and considered the only good Greek scholar in the city. I knew also Don -Jose Huapayo, Vice-rector of the college del Principe, a pasante of San -Carlos, a young man of natural talents, which were well cultivated. - -Extreme cowardice has also been attributed to the indians; but this -imputation very indifferently accords with the tribes of Araucania, -Darien, &c. During the present contest in South America the indians have -sustained more than their share of fighting; and had the unfortunate -Pumacagua of Cusco, or Pucatoro of Huamanga, been supplied with arms and -ammunition, they would not have been subdued by Ramires and Maroto. - -The indians who reside among the creoles and Spaniards on the coasts of -Peru and in the province of Guayaquil are docile, obliging, and rather -timid. Their timidity has been the cause of their being supposed totally -indifferent to what passes; indeed, as I have before said, there does -not appear to be any eager curiosity about them, they have little to -satisfy; but at its lowest ebb, this disposition surely can only be -termed apathy. They are industrious in the cultivation of their farms -and gardens; attentive to their other occupations, and faithful in their -engagements; they know the value of riches, strive to obtain them, and -are fond of being considered rich, although they never boast of being -so. Infidelity between man and wife is very rare; they are kind parents, -which generally makes their children grateful as well as dutiful. -Robertson says, that "chastity is an idea too refined for a savage." I -must beg leave to state, that his compilation, founded on Spanish -writings, is not always deserving of credit. Had Dr. Robertson travelled -over half the countries he describes, or observed the native character -of the people which he has depicted, he would have expressed himself in -very different terms. Chastity is more common, and infidelity more -uncommon, among the Peruvians than in most countries of the old world. -The same author remarks, "in America, even among the rudest tribes, a -regular union between husband and wife was universal, and the rights of -marriage were understood and recognized." This surely is a proof that -chastity was known among these _savages_; and I cannot conceive that -polygamy, when sanctioned by law or custom, is any objection to -chastity. - -They are cleanly in their persons, and particularly so in their food; -abstemious in general, but at their feasts inclined to gluttony and -drunkenness; although disposed to the latter vice in a considerable -degree, they are not habitual drunkards, and the females are so averse -from it, that I never saw one of them intoxicated. I often observed, -when living among the indians, that they slept very little; they will -converse till late at night, and always rise early in the morning, -especially if they have any work that requires their attention; such as -irrigating their fields, when water can only be obtained at night, or -tending their mules on a journey. In such cases they will abstain from -sleep for three or four nights successively, without any apparent -inconvenience, and they seldom or never sleep during the day. Both males -and females adhere to one kind of dress, which varies little either in -towns or villages. The men of Huacho wear long blue woollen trowsers, -waistcoat, and sometimes a jacket; a light poncho, and a straw hat, but -they are without either shoes or stockings, except some of the old men -who have been alcaldes, and who afterwards wear shoes adorned with large -square silver buckles when they go to church or to Lima. The alcaldes -also usually wear a long blue Spanish cloak. The dress of the females is -a blue flannel petticoat, plaited in folds about half an inch broad, a -white shirt, and a piece of flannel, red, green, or yellow, about two -yards long and three quarters of a yard broad; this they put over their -shoulders like a shawl, and then throw the right end over the left -shoulder, crossing the breast. They wear ear-rings formed like a rose or -a button, the shank being passed through the aperture made in the ear, -and secured by a small peg passed through the eye of the shank; they -have also one or more rosaries, which like the ear-rings are of gold, -and hang round their necks with large crosses, medals, &c. They seldom -wear shoes, except when they go to church, and then often only put them -on at the door; stockings they never wear. The hair both of the men and -women is generally long; the former have one plat formed with the hair -of the forehead, at the top of the head, and another with the rest -behind, and both are fastened together at the ends; the women plat -their hair in a number of very small tresses, but comb the whole from -the forehead backwards. There is a considerable portion of superstition -among them; old women are always afraid of being considered witches, and -when a person dies his death is generally attributed to witchcraft. A -widow will often, while lamenting the death of her husband, throw out a -volume of abuse against some female who, as she imagines, had cast an -evil eye on him. When a person praises a child or even a young animal, a -by-stander will exclaim, God protect it! _Dios lo guarda!_ to avert its -being withered by an evil eye. They are considered as neophytes, and the -inquisition has no power over them, nor are they included among the bull -buyers. As to their religion, they are particularly attentive to all the -outward forms, and strict in their attendance at church; but an instance -of cunning in evading a reprimand from the rector happened at this town. -An indian being questioned by the _cura_, rector, why he did not attend -mass on a day of precept, to hear _mass_ and _work_, replied, "that he -had fulfilled the commandment of the church, for as he did not intend to -work, mass was undoubtedly excused by the precept." - -I observed at Huacho one of the ancient rites of the Peruvians; it was -the ñaca feast. A child never has its hair cut till it is a year old, or -thereabouts; the friends then assemble, and one by one take a small lock -and cut it off, at the same time presenting something to the child. This -ceremony among the ancient Peruvians was practised at the naming of the -child, and the name was generally appropriate to some particular -circumstance which occurred to the child on that day. The seventh Inca -was called Yahuar Huacar, weeper of blood, because on that day drops of -blood were observed falling from his eyes; and Huascar, the fourteenth -Inca, was so named because the nobles on this day presented him with a -golden chain called a _huasca_, after the ceremony of cutting the ñacas. - -At this village I heard for the first time the oral tradition of the -first Inca, Manco Capac; it was afterwards repeated to me by indians in -various parts of the country, and they assured me that it was true, and -that they believed it. A white man, they say, was found on the coast, by -a certain Cacique, or head of a tribe, whose name was Cocapac; by signs -he asked the white man who he was, and received for answer, an -Englishman. He took him to his home, where he had a daughter; the -stranger lived with him till the daughter of the Cacique bore him a son -and a daughter, and then died. The old man called the boy Ingasman -Cocapac, and the girl Mama Oclle; they were of a fair complexion and had -light hair, and were dressed in a different manner from the indians. -From accounts given by this stranger of the manner in which other people -lived, and how they were governed, Cocapac determined on exalting his -family; and having instructed the boy and girl in what he proposed to -do, he took them first to the plain of Cusco, where one of the largest -tribes of indians then resided, and informed them that their God, the -sun, had sent them two of his children to make them happy, and to govern -them; he requested them to go to a certain mountain on the following -morning at sunrise, and search for them; he moreover told them that the -_viracochas_, children of the sun, had hair like the rays of the sun, -and that their faces were of the colour of the sun. In the morning the -indians went to the mountain, _condor urco_, and found the young man and -woman, but surprised at their colour and features, they declared that -the couple were a wizard and a witch. They now sent them to Rimac Malca, -the plain on which Lima stands, but the old man followed them, and next -took them to the neighbourhood of the lake of Titicaca, where another -powerful tribe resided; Cocapac told these indians the same tale, but -requested them to search for the viracochas on the edge of the lake at -sunrise; they did so, and found them there, and immediately declared -them to be the children of their God, and their supreme governors. -Elated with his success, Cocapac was determined to be revenged on the -indians of Cusco; for this purpose he privately instructed his -grandchildren in what he intended to do, and then informed the tribe -that the _viracocha_, Ingasman Cocapac, had determined to search for the -place where he was to reside; he requested they would take their arms -and follow him, saying, that wherever he struck his golden rod or -sceptre into the ground, that was the spot where he chose to remain. The -young man and woman directed their course to the plain of Cusco, where -having arrived, the signal was given, and the indians here, surprised by -the re-appearance of the viracochas, and overawed by the number of -indians that accompanied them, acknowledged them as their lord, and the -children of their God. Thus, say the indians, was the power of the Incas -established, and many of them have said, that as I was an Englishman, I -was of their family. When H. B. M. ship Breton was at Callao, some of -the officers accompanied me one Sunday afternoon to the Alameda at -Lima; on our way we were saluted by several indians from the mountains, -calling us their countrymen, and their relations, begging at the same -time that we would drink some chicha with them. - -There is a curious analogy between this tradition and one that I had -from the mouth of Don Santos Pires, at Rio de Janeiro, in 1823. He told -me, that before the discovery of the Brazils, an Englishman had been -shipwrecked, and fell into the hands of the Coboculo indians; he had -preserved or obtained from the wreck a musket and some ammunition, with -which he both terrified and pleased the indians, who called him -_Camaruru_, the man of fire, and elected him their king. He taught them -several things of which they were before ignorant (as did Manco Capac -and Mama Oclle the Peruvians); he was alive at the conquest of the -country, and was carried to Portugal, when Emanuel granted him a valley -near to Bahia, independent of the crown. Don Santos is the brother of -the Baron da Torre, both lineal descendants of Camaruru, of which he -boasted not a little, adding, that to the present time none of the -lineal descendants had ever married a Portuguese. - -The Muysca indians of the plains of Cundinamarca have a white man with a -beard, called Bochica, Nemquetheba, or Suhé, for under these different -names he is spoken of, as their legislator. This old man, like Manco -Capac, taught them to build huts and live in communities, to till the -ground, and to harvest the produce; as also to clothe themselves, with -other comforts; but his wife, Chia, Yubecayguaya, or Huythaca, for she -is also known by three different names, was not like Mama Oclle, who -taught the females to spin, to weave, and to dye the cloths. Chia, on -the contrary, opposed and thwarted every enterprize for the public good -adopted by Bochica, who, like Manco Capac, was the child of the sun, -dried the soil, promoted agriculture, and established wise laws. The -Inca did not separate the ecclesiastical authority from the political, -as Bochica did, but established a theocracia. The first opened an outlet -to the lake Titicaca, for the benefit of his subjects, at a place now -called _Desaguadero_, the outlet; while the latter, for the same -purpose, opened the lake of Bogotá, at Tequendama. The Inca bequeathed -his sovereign authority to his son, while Bochica named two chiefs for -the government, and retired to _Tunja_, holy valley, where he lived two -thousand years, or, as other traditions state, where his descendants -governed the Muysca tribe for two thousand years. The first of these -successors was called Huncahua, and the rest Huncas, which was the name -of the holy city; but the Spaniards have changed the name to Tunja. - -The Mexicans have likewise a bearded white man as a legislator, called -Quatzalcoatl; he was the high priest of Cholula, chief of a religious -sect, and a legislator; he preached peace to men, and prohibited all -sacrifices to the Deity, excepting the first fruits. - -We have here the tradition of four white men distinguished by the people -of the new world, as having beards, a circumstance as remarkable to -them, as it was visible, for they being beardless, would consequently be -surprised at seeing men whose faces bore what they would be led to -consider a feature so distinguishing. Two of these are said to have been -Englishmen. Of the laws established by Camaruru I have no information, -but those established by Manco Capac I know have no analogy, nor do they -bear any resemblance to those of any of the northern governments, -except, setting aside lineal descent, the papal, where the spiritual -authority is exercised by the King of Rome. This coincidence of four -men, bearing the same mark of a beard, three of whom were priests and -legislators, occurred at places the most distant from each other, the -one at Rio de Janeiro, in latitude 22° 54´ 10´´ S., longitude 42° 43´ -45´´ W.; one at Cusco in lat. 13° S., long. 81° W.; one at Cundinamarca -in latitude 4° 35´ N., long. 74° 8´; and the other at Cholula in -latitude 19° 4´ N., longitude 98° 14´ W. - -The traditions of Manco Capac, Bochica, and Quatzalcoatl agree in -predicting the arrival of bearded men at some future period, and the -conquest of the different countries by them; which predictions operated -strongly in favour of Pizarro, Benalcazar, and Cortes, and produced that -submission of the Peruvians, Muyscas, and Mexicans, which finally laid -the foundation of the degraded state of their descendants. - -From some accounts of the government of the Incas of Peru, it is easy to -observe how well acquainted they were with the natural character of the -people whom they had to govern. The whole empire was modelled like a -large monastic establishment, in which each individual had his place and -his duty assigned to him, without being permitted to inquire into the -conduct of his superiors, much less to question the authority of the -high priest, or to doubt the justness of his mandates. Passive obedience -to the decrees of their master could not but crush the germ of -enterprize and ambition. Thus it is that the Peruvian indians are -destitute of an active love for their country, and incapable of any -exertion, unless roused by the orders of a Superior. Patient in -adversity, and not elated with prosperity, their most indifferent -actions are regulated by almost superstitious precision. Their -veneration for the memory of their Incas is beyond description, -particularly in some of the interior districts, where his decollation by -Pizarro is annually represented. In this performance their grief is so -natural, though excessive, their songs so plaintive, and the whole is -such a scene of distress, that I never witnessed it without mingling my -tears with theirs. The Spanish authorities have endeavoured to prevent -this exhibition, but without effect, although several royal orders have -been issued for the purpose. The indians in the territory of Quito wear -black clothes, and affirm that it is mourning for their Incas, of whom -they never speak but in a doleful tone. I cannot quit this subject -without again saying, that from the unconquered tribes to the east and -the west of Quito, both from those who were subject to the laws of the -conquerors, as well as the warlike tribes of Arauco, I received the -kindest treatment, and a degree of respect to which I was in no way -entitled; and I hope I shall never permit ingratitude to guide either my -pen or my tongue when their character is discussed. - -Among the feasts which the indians of Huacho celebrate, that of Corpus -Christi deserves to be spoken of. Besides the splendid decorations of -the church, at the gratuitous expence of the indians, there are at the -houses of the Mayordomos, Alfereces, and Mayorales sumptuous dinners, -from the feast to the octave, provided for all persons who choose to -partake of them. They consume an enormous quantity of their favourite -beverage, chicha, of which I have been assured, that a thousand jars, -each containing eighteen gallons, have been drunk at one feast; and I do -not doubt it, for besides the natives, numbers of people flock to the -feast from the surrounding villages, and many come from Lima. At these -dinners there are always several dishes of guinea pigs, stewed, and -seasoned with an abundance of capsicum. Indeed, an indian of the coast -of Peru never dispenses with this picante at a feast; and I must -acknowledge that I became almost as partial to it as any indian. - -During the week the village is enlivened with different companies of -dancers: one called huancos is composed of eight or ten men; they have -large crowns of ostrich feathers (from the plains of Buenos Ayres) on -their heads; the quills are fastened in a roll of red cloth, which -contains not less than five hundred long feathers dyed of various -colours, but particularly red. They have small ponchos of brocade, -tissue, or satin; on their legs they wear leather buskins, loaded with -hawks' bells; their faces are partly covered by a handkerchief tied high -above their mouths; and they carry as arms a cudgel, and bear on the -left arm a small wooden buckler. They dance along the streets to the -sound of a pipe and tabor, keeping pace to the tune, that the bells on -their legs may beat time to the pipe and tabor. - -When two companies of these dancers meet, neither will give way for the -other to pass, and the result is, the cudgels are applied to open it. -Some of their skirmishes produce broken heads and arms, although they -are very dexterous in guarding off the blows with their small bucklers; -but no intreaties nor threats from magistrates, who have sometimes -interfered, can appease or separate them, until the criollaos appear, -when, as if by magic, each party dances along quite unconcerned. - -The criollaos go by pairs, accompanied by a pipe and tabor. They have -small helmets on their heads, a poncho like the huancos, and a short -petticoat; they carry in their right hands a small wooden sword, in -their left a bunch of flowers, and they dance to a melancholy tune, -while that of the huancos is very lively. They are the peace makers, and -such respect is paid to their interference, that not a blow is struck -after their arrival; but neither threats nor intreaties will hurry them -on to the place of action. - -The chimbos are very gaily dressed: they have crowns ornamented with all -the jewellery which they can borrow; necklaces, ear-rings, bracelets, -and rosaries are fastened on them in abundance, and when these cannot be -procured, they have holes drilled in doubloons and new dollars, with -which they load them. I have seen fifty of each on one crown. Their -dress is a gay poncho, with wide Moorish trowsers; and their music -consists of one or more harps or guitars. For the purpose of dancing -along the streets, two boys support the bottom of the harp, whilst the -top is fastened with a handkerchief tied round the neck of the player. - -All these dance before the procession, which, considering the smallness -of the town, is very splendid. A double row of indians, the men on one -side and the women on the other, with large lighted wax tapers, often -as many as two thousand, go before; in the centre are indian boys and -girls, burning perfumes in small incense burners, and strewing flowers. -A rich pall with six silver cased poles is carried over the priest -bearing the host, by the Mayordomos, Alfereces, and Mayorales; and the -procession is closed with all the music they can muster. In the course -of the procession, as well as every night during the octave, great -quantities of fireworks are burnt. - -Longevity is common among the Peruvian indians. I witnessed the burial -of two, in a small village, one of whom had attained the age of 127, and -the other of 109; yet both enjoyed unimpaired health to a few days -within their decease. On examining the parish books of Barranca, I -found, that in seven years, eleven indians had been buried, whose joint -ages amounted to 1207. - -The diseases most incidental to the indians, both along the coast of -Peru and in the interior, are of an inflammatory nature--consumptions in -puberty, and pleuritic affections in old age. With what certainty the -origin of syphilis has been traced to America, I know not; but the wild -tribes of Arauco, Archidona, Napo, in the vicinity of Darien, and -several others, as well as those that live in small settlements among -the Spaniards, are totally unacquainted with it; and although I have -been particularly inquisitive on this head, I never could hear of one -solitary instance of the disease, except in large towns and cities, and -then it was limited to a certain class, where it was likely to be most -prevalent. - -The great decrease of indian population in Peru may almost be called -alarming; many theories have been published respecting it, but in my -opinion none have given the true cause. Some have attributed it to the -introduction of the small pox; but the virulence of this disease was -mitigated, as in Europe, by inoculation, and latterly by the -introduction of vaccination, which at a great expence was carried from -Spain in 1805, by the order of Charles IV. Not less than eighty boys -were sent over in a vessel of war, for the purpose of preserving the -fluid by transferring it from one to the other; and a tribunal was -formed in Lima, of which the Viceroy was the president, having -professors with competent salaries, for the preservation of this _magnum -Dei donum_, as it was justly called in the royal order. On examining -some church books, I found that the number of deaths was not uncommonly -augmented when the small pox was prevalent, although undoubtedly for -several years after the conquest many people died of it through -ignorance of the method of treatment. Perhaps, too, superstition and -fear made the healthy abandon the sick, to avoid the contagious effects -of what appeared to them to be a disease brought by the Spaniards for -their destruction. Of this idea they were doubtlessly possessed, for -while Valdivia was at Talcahuano, several indians took up their -residence in the town with the Spaniards, until on the arrival of a -vessel from Peru with provisions, a barrel of lentils fell on the ground -and burst; the grains appeared to the terrified indians to be a new -importation of the small pox, on which account they all immediately -fled, and carried the appalling news to their countrymen. - -Others have attributed this decrease to the number of indians who died -in the mines, being driven there by the laws of _repartimiento_, -distribution, and _mita_, temporal labour: these also belong to the -first years after the conquest. Some have fancied that a social life -does not agree with their nature; but this is equally trifling, because -the comforts, conveniency, and regularity of such a life cannot be -detrimental to human nature; besides, those who were latterly subject to -the Spanish domination in Peru, were formerly subject to that of the -Incas, and the decrease was as visible on the coast, where the indians -may be said to be their own masters, as in the interior, where many are -not. Perhaps the introduction of spirituous liquors may have tended to -diminish the population; if so, this is almost an incurable evil; and -certainly the division of the country, or the cultivated lands into -large estates, as they were granted to many of the conquerors and first -settlers, was a pernicious error, the fatal effects of which are often -felt, and are inimical to the increase of population. - -About three leagues to the south of Huacho are the salinas, or plains of -salt. This natural production is covered with sand, in some places -thicker than in others; under this is a stratum of solid salt, from -eight to twelve inches thick. For the purpose of taking it up, it is -marked out into square pieces, by chopping it gently with an axe; a bar -of iron is then introduced underneath the salt, and the squares are -turned over to dry; beneath the solid salt the ground is quite soft and -rather watery, which allows the salt to separate from the bed with much -facility. After three years have expired, the salt is again in a state -to be cut; and from this small plain, which is not more than five miles -square, salt enough is extracted for the consumption of the greater -part of Peru and Chile. It is carried into the interior on the backs of -mules, and to different places on the coast by shipping, for which there -is an excellent port called _de las Salinas_, though some go to that of -Huacho, which is not so commodious. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - Villa of Huaura....Description....Village of Supe....Ruins of an - Indian Town...._Huacas_, Burying Places....Bodies preserved - entire....Village of Barranca....Earthquake in 1806....Barranca - River....Bridge of Ropes....Village of Pativilca....Sugar - Plantation....Produce and Profit....Cane cultivated....Mills.... - Sugar-house....Management of Slaves....Regulations, &c. of Slaves. - - -Two leagues to the northward of Huacho is the villa or town of Huaura; -it consists of one long street and about two thousand inhabitants, some -of whom are respectable creole families; it has a parish church, a -convent of Franciscan friars, and a hospital. Owing to the situation of -this town, having a range of high hills between it and the sea, and -which keep off the sea breeze, it is very sultry; to this circumstance a -cutaneous disease is attributed, which leaves a bluish mark on the skin. -It is most prevalent among the mulattos; and on those negroes who are -affected by it a stain is left which is almost white, and is called by -the natives _carati_. - -Near to Huaura is a plantation, the _ingenio_, formerly belonging to the -Jesuits; here the cane is crushed by cylinders put in motion by a water -wheel, which is said to be the first ever constructed in Peru. - -A very handsome brick bridge of one arch, the centre of which was -forty-seven yards above the bed of the river, and the span twenty-six -yards wide, was erected at the entrance of the town; it was thrown down -by an earthquake on the 1st of December, 1806, and the old wooden -bridge, which had formerly a redoubt to guard it, has been repaired. - -The English pirate Edward David took Huaura and sacked it in 1685, -putting to death the _alcalde de la hermandad_, Don Bias Carrera, whom -he had made his prisoner; this so terrified the inhabitants that they -immediately abandoned the town, nor could they be persuaded to avail -themselves of the drunken state of the sailors during the night to -revenge the injuries they had suffered; they were fearful of being -captured and treated in the same manner as their alcalde. The charter of -villa was taken from the town by the King, but afterwards restored. - -The valley of Huaura extends about twelve leagues to the eastward, and -contains many excellent farms, plantations of sugar cane, and about -three thousand slaves. - -Seven leagues from Huaura is the village of Supe, with a parish church -and eight hundred inhabitants, the greater part of whom are indians. -Between these towns there is a large plain, called _pampa de medio -mundo_, which before the conquest was under irrigation; the vestiges of -the old canals, _asequias_, are still visible, and bear witness of the -enormous labour of the ancient Peruvians, as well as of their uncommon -skill in conveying water for the purpose of watering their fields to -immense distances, without the aid of engines; the principal asequia -here took its water from the Huaura river, and winding round the foot of -the mountains conveyed it to the distance of ten leagues, irrigating in -its course some very beautiful plains, which are now only deserts of -sand. - -Near to Supe are the remains of a large indian town, built on the side -of a rock, galleries being dug out of it, one above another, for the -purpose of making room for their small houses; many remains of these are -still visible, and also of small parapets of stone raised before them, -so that the hill has the appearance of a fortified place. At a short -distance are the ruins of another town, on an elevated plain, where -water doubtless could not be procured for irrigation; for, as I have -already observed, the indians never built on land that could be -cultivated. - -I was fully convinced here that the indians buried their dead in the -houses where they had resided, as I dug up many of them. They appear to -have been buried with whatever belonged to them at the time of their -death; I have found women with their pots, pans, and jars of -earthenware, some of which are very curious. One kind is composed of two -hollow spheres, each about three inches in diameter; they are connected -by a small tube placed in the centre, and a hollow arched handle to hold -it by, having a hole on the upper side; if water be poured into this -hole till the jar is about half full, and the jar be then inclined first -to one side and then to the other, a whistling noise is produced. -Sometimes a figure of a man stands on each jar, and the water is poured -down an opening in his head, and by the same means the noise is -occasioned. I saw one of these at the Carmelite nunnery at Quito, having -two indians upon it carrying a corpse on their shoulders, laid on a -hollow bier resembling a butcher's tray; when the jar was inclined -backwards and forwards a plaintive cry was heard, resembling that made -by the indians at a funeral. The jars and other utensils were of good -clay, and well baked, which, with the ingenious construction just -alluded to, prove that the indians were acquainted with the art of -pottery. I have also found in these huacas long pieces of cotton cloth, -similar to that which is made by the indians at the present time, called -tocuyo; many calabashes, quantities of indian corn or maize, quinua, -beans, and the leaves of plantains; feathers of the ostrich from the -plains of Buenos Ayres, and different dresses; some spades of palm wood, -similar to the _chonta_ of Guayaquil, and of which none grow near to -Supe; lances and clubs of the same wood; jars filled with chicha, which -was quite sweet when discovered, but became sour after being exposed to -the air for a short time. I have also found small dolls made of cotton, -their dress similar to that worn at present by the females of Cajatambo -and Huarochiri: it consists of a white petticoat, _anaco_, a piece of -coloured flannel, two corners of which are fastened on the left shoulder -by a cactus thorn, the middle being passed under the right arm, girt -round the waist with a coloured fillet, and open on the left side down -to the bottom; this part of the dress was called the _chaupe anaco_; a -piece of flannel, of another colour, of about two feet square, was -brought over the shoulders and fastened on the breast with two large -pins of silver or gold, called _topas_: this part of the dress is called -the _yiglla_. The hair is divided into two side tresses, and these are -fastened behind, at the extremity, with a coloured fillet. The -principal motive for digging the huacas is to search for treasure; I -have found rings and small cups of gold; they are beat out very thin, -and their size is that of half a hen's egg-shell; it is supposed that -they were worn in the ears, for a small shank is attached to them, like -the buttons worn by the indian females at present. Slips of silver, -about two inches broad and ten long, as thin as paper, are also -frequently dug up. Any small piece of gold which was buried with them is -generally found in their mouths. - -Owing to the nitrous quality of the sand, and to its almost perfect -dryness, the bodies are quite entire, and not the least defaced, -although many of them have been buried at least three centuries: the -clothes are also in the same state of preservation, but both soon decay -after being exposed to the sun and air. I dug up one man whose hair grew -from his eyebrows, covering his forehead, or rather he had no visible -forehead; a great quantity of dried herbs had been buried with him, some -small pots, and several dolls: the indians who saw him assured me, that -he had been a _brujo_, a wizard or diviner; but I was inclined to -believe him to have been a physician: however, the two sciences might -be considered by them as somewhat similar. - -Many persons are persuaded that these huacas were only burying grounds, -and not places of residence for the living: if so, it shews the respect -which the people had for their dead; but as some of the tribes of wild -indians bury their dead in the house where they lived, and then abandon -it, building for themselves another, this appears to be a sufficient -reason for suspecting that such was the practice with the ancient -Peruvians. - -I resided several months at the small village of la Barranca, and I here -witnessed the great earthquake that happened on the 1st of December, -1806, supposed to be one of the periodical shocks felt in Lima and its -vicinity; they have occurred in the following years:--1586, 1609, 1655, -1690, 1716, 1746, and 1806. This earthquake, however, did not extend its -desolating effects to the capital; these appear to have been limited by -the rivers of Barranca and Huaura, an extent of about ten leagues; but -the shock was felt at Ica, a hundred leagues to the southward, although -it was not perceived at Huaras, thirty leagues to the eastward. - -No hollow sound was observed to precede this shock, a circumstance -particularly remarked by several of the old people, who said, that it -came on so suddenly, that the dogs did not hear it, nor the pigs smell -it, before every one felt the shock. I inquired their reason for thus -expressing themselves, and was informed, that it had always been found -when the shocks were severe, that they were announced by the howling of -the dogs and the squealing of the pigs. This effect, I think, can only -be accounted for by the dogs lying on the ground, and either hearing the -noise or feeling the motion before either become perceptible to the -people; and probably if any gaseous vapour be ejected the olfactory -nerves of the pigs may be affected by it. Immediately after the -earthquake many people saw red flames rising out of the sea, and others -burning over a low piece of ground on the shore called the Totoral. The -cattle which were feeding here at the time, died shortly afterwards from -the effect produced on the grass by this burning vapour. - -The motion of the earth during the shock was oscillatory, resembling the -waves of the sea; and the sensation which I experienced was similar to -that which is felt in a boat when approaching the land. The motion was -so great, that some bottles of wine and brandy, placed on a shelf about -two yards high and three from the door, were thrown from a shop into the -street to a distance of more than two feet from the door; if, therefore, -they fell from the shelf without any projecting impulse to impel them -forward, the wall must have inclined so as to form with its natural base -an angle of 25 degrees. - -The ground was rent in several places, and quantities of sand and a -species of mud were thrown into the air. Trees were torn up by the -roots; the church and several of the houses, both here and at Supe, were -destroyed; while Pativilca, a town at only two leagues distance, on the -opposite side of the river, suffered very trivially. The undulations of -the earth lasted twenty-one minutes; but there was no repetition of -shocks, nor was any subterraneous noise heard. The perpendicular height -of the land on the sea side is fifty-three yards, notwithstanding which -several canoes and boats were thrown by the waves nearly to the top, and -left among the trees, and for more than two months afterwards enormous -quantities of fish drifted daily on the beach. - -Perhaps the effect produced on the grass at the Totoral, and this on the -fish, may throw some light on the problem of the sterility occasioned -by earthquakes, which I have already noticed--in particular, as the -gaseous matter having become condensed was left on the surface to -produce its effect on the ground, where it could not be washed off by -the rains. - -An old mulatto, one of the four men who escaped at Callao in 1746, when -that city was submersed in the sea, assured me, that the convulsion -there did not appear to him so terrible as the one I have just -mentioned. - -Near to this village is a convenient port and landing place, called de -la Barranca, and about a mile to the northward of the village is the -river de la Barranca. During the rainy months, in the mountainous -districts of the interior, it is so filled with water, that its passage -is attended with considerable danger without the assistance of the -_chimbadoros_, ferrymen. The bottom is very stony, which also occasions -much danger, if the horses are not sure-footed and accustomed to ford -rivers. The rapidity of the current precludes the use of boats or -canoes, and its width would render the construction of a bridge -extremely expensive. I have often crossed it when the water covered the -space of half a mile, and was divided into thirteen or fourteen -branches, through some of which the horse on which I was mounted had to -swim. About six leagues from the main coast road, and the usual fording -place of the river, there is a bridge of ropes, made from the fibres of -the maguey leaves. These are first crushed between two stones, immersed -in water till the vegetable matter easily separates from the fibres, -when they are taken out, beat with a stick, washed, and dried; the ropes -are then twisted by hand, without the assistance of any machinery, the -fibrous parts of the leaves being inserted when the diminished strength -of the rope requires them. This bridge is called _de Cochas_, from the -small village which stands near to it: it is thirty-eight yards across. -On one side, the principal ropes, five in number, each about twelve -inches in circumference, are fastened to a large beam laid on the -ground, secured by two strong posts buried nearly to their tops: on the -opposite side the beam is secured by being placed behind two small -rocks. Across these five ropes a number of the flower stalks of the -maguey are laid, and upon them a quantity of old ropes and the fibrous -parts of leaves are strewed, to preserve the stalks and the principal -ropes. A net-work, instead of railings, is placed on each side, to -prevent the passengers from falling into the river. Although the whole -construction appears so flimsy, the breadth being only five feet, I -have seen droves of laden mules, as well as horned cattle, cross it; and -I have repeatedly done so myself, on horseback, after I had reconciled -myself to its tremulous motion. - -These swing bridges, which are common in South America, are called -_puentes de maroma_, or _de amaca_; and by the indians, _cimpachaca_, -bridge of ropes, or rather, of tresses--as cimpa signifies a platted -tress. Some persons, however, call them _huascachaca_, huasca being more -properly a twisted rope; but I apprehend that they were originally made -from platted ropes, in which the insertion of leaves is more easy. - -Bridges of this description were general in Peru before the conquest, -and they are unquestionably the best calculated for a mountainous -country, where some of the ravines requiring them are very steep, and -the currents impetuous. Bridges were likewise formed by the indians by -laying large beams across stone piers; but these were not so common nor -so appropriate as the rope bridges. The largest of them was over the -river Apurimac, which runs between Lima and Cusco, and is crossed by -travellers who frequent this road to and from the ancient and modern -capitals of Peru. The bridge was two hundred and forty feet long, and -nine feet broad; the ends of the principal ropes were fastened on one -side the river to rings of stone, cut in the solid rock: one of these -was broken in 1819, when the stream rose so high that it caught the -bridge, and dragged it away. - -Two leagues to the northward of Barranca is the neat village of -Pativilca, without any indian population: it was formerly a country -covered with wood, and a place of retreat for malefactors; but the -Viceroy Castel-forte sent people to form a village, and ordered a church -to be built, offering an indult to all persons who should leave the -bush, and build themselves houses in the town. By this wise policy he -accomplished his end--reclaiming many outcasts, and rendering the road -secure to travellers. - -While residing at Barranca I had an excellent opportunity of judging of -the condition of the slaves on the plantations; and I shall here give a -brief account of one of the best regulated that I visited, which was -Huaito, the property of Doña Josefa Salasar de Monteblanco. - -This plantation is principally dedicated to the cultivation of cane and -the elaboration of sugar; but a part is destined to ordinary -agricultural pursuits, such as the growth of maize, beans, camotes, -pumpkins, &c., beside some pasture land for cattle. The number of slaves -employed on it, including all descriptions, is six hundred and -seventy-two; and the weight of sugar produced annually, according to the -statement given to me by Don Manuel Sotil, who superintended the -manufactory, is as follows:-- - - - Loaves of clayed Sugar 9555, each weighing } - on an average 50 lbs. at 10 dollars per } 47770 dollars. - quintal } - Chancaca, or coarse brown Sugar in cakes 6000 - Coarse Sugar made from the refuse 1500 - Molasses sold on the estate 600 - ----- - Value of produce of Sugar 55870 - ----- - - Expences:--Clothing of slaves at 10 dollars each 3720 - Chaplain 200 - Surgeon 300 - Overseer 500 - Sugar boiler 800 - Premium to Slaves 600 - Drugs 200 - ---- - 6320 - ==== - - -The result of this statement is, that after defraying all the expences -of the cultivation of the cane, and the elaboration of the sugar, the -profit amounted to 49550 dollars. - -Besides this profit, another of considerable importance was derived -from the feeding of cattle on extensive fields of lucern, and the -breeding of hogs. There was also generally, a surplus of maize and beans -beyond the consumption of the estate; but without this, according to the -valuation made of the whole estate, including buildings, slaves and -utensils, which amounted to 962000, the clear profit on this capital -exceeded five per cent.; which, with the assistance of the requisite -machinery for cultivating and harvesting the cane, and manufacturing the -sugar, might be doubled. - -I have made no deductions for the food of the slaves, because they were -maintained by the produce of the estate, leaving a great surplus for -sale; probably as much in value as would defray the expences of their -clothing. - -The cane usually cultivated in Peru is the creole; but in the year 1802 -plants of the Otaheitean cane were first introduced at Guayaquil, by Don -Jose Merino, who procured them from Jamaica, whence in 1806 they were -brought to some of the plantations of Peru, and from the advantageous -result which has been experienced in the growth of this cane, it would -follow that the creole will soon be exploded, notwithstanding the -assertion, that the sugar obtained from the cane of Otaheite abounds -more in mucilage than in essential salt, and that it is susceptible of -but a feeble consistency, which exposes it to decomposition on long -voyages, or if it be warehoused any considerable length of time. But the -Peruvian cultivator has neither of these drawbacks to fear, because -there is always an immediate demand for it at home, or the longest -voyage to which it is subjected is to Chile. - -The Otaheitean cane, on the same land, and with equal labour with the -creole, grows to the height of nine or ten feet in eighteen or twenty -months, while the creole only grows six in thirty-five or thirty-six -months, at which times they are respectively in a state of maturity. The -large canes of the former are from seven to eight inches in diameter, -but those of the latter seldom exceed three and a half, and the same -measure of juice produces nearly the same weight of sugar: besides this, -the saving of labour at the mills and manufactory is very great. The -cane of Otaheite is more tenacious, and comes from the cylinders whole, -while the creole is frequently completely crushed, and incapable of -being returned to the operation of the cylinders, on which account a -considerable portion of the juice is lost; the pressed cane of Otaheite -is also conveyed to the furnace with much more facility than the other. - -The cane is usually planted in the foggy season, that it may have taken -root before the dry weather commences; the land is prepared by repeated -ploughings, and by breaking the lumps of earth with clubs, harrows and -rollers for this purpose being unknown. The ploughs are similar to those -used in Chile, and which I have already described. If suitable ploughs -and other utensils were introduced, it is easy to conceive what great -relief would be given to manual labour; and if the horse or mule were -substituted for the drowsy, slow-paced bullock, the result would be much -more favourable. - -The canes are planted in drills made with hoes, so formed, that when the -water for irrigation enters the upper end of a field it can flow without -any hinderance to the lower; but before this operation of watering takes -place the earth is hilled up to the plants. According to the dryness of -the season, and the quality of the land, irrigation is repeated three or -four times during the summer, and owing to the disposal of the furrows -it is neither laborious nor troublesome. The water is generally allowed -to remain on the ground twenty-four hours. - -When the cane is ripe it is cut close to the ground, and all the leaves -are stript off, which with the rubbish are left until the whole field be -cut, when they are burnt; and immediately afterwards the roots are -irrigated. The cane is carried to the mill on the backs of asses; but -for this purpose carts might be used with much saving of labour. - -In some parts of the province of Guayaquil and on the coast of Choco the -natives, who cultivate the cane for their household consumption of -molasses, guarapo, and rum, cut all that is ripe, leaving that which is -green; they next bare the roots, mix the soil so obtained with the soil -in the furrow, by digging and turning them over, and then hill up the -cane again. By repeating this operation every time they cut their cane, -they have a constant succession of crops, and the plantation never -fails; while in Peru a plantation only yields two crops, for the third -is often scarcely sufficient to plant the ground for the ensuing -harvest. - -The general method of pressing the cane is by means of three vertical -grooved brass cylinders, which are put in motion by two pairs of oxen, -yoked to two opposite points of a large wooden wheel, placed above the -cylinders, and attached at its centre to the axle of the central -cylinder, the cogs or teeth of which communicate the rotatory motion to -the other two. This tardy method of pressing is used on many -plantations; but on the one I am now speaking of vertical water-wheels -supply the place of the bullocks, one wheel being attached to each mill. -There is however great room for improvement, particularly in the -adoption of iron cog and lantern wheels, or at least of metal cogs to -the large wheels, iron axletrees, &c.; but rude as the present plan is, -the expence of keeping a considerable number of oxen is avoided. - -The juice of the cane is received in the boiling house, in a large -bell-metal pan, a small quantity of lime being first thrown into it; -from this receiver it is carried in large calabashes to a pan ten feet -deep, where it is evaporated to a proper consistency, and at intervals -caustic ley is added to it, prepared at a considerable expence from the -ashes of the _espino_, or _huarango_. After throwing into the pan about -half a pint of this ley, a considerable quantity of fecula rises to the -top, which is immediately taken off with a skimmer made of a large -calabash, bored full of holes. When the syrup has become cool it is put -into another pan, and evaporated to a proper consistency for -crystallization; it is then poured into the moulds, made of common baked -clay, in which it is repeatedly stirred, and on the following day it is -transferred to the purging house, where the plug is taken from the -bottom of the mould, and the coarse molasses run from the sugar. It is -next removed to the claying house; each mould, like an inverted cone, is -placed on a jar, and soft clay of the consistency of batter poured on -the sugar. This operation is repeated three or four times, or till the -loaf is purged from the molasses it contained, when it is taken out of -the mould and carried into the store to dry. The whole process requires -a month or five weeks, according to the season, for it is much sooner -ready for the store house in damp weather than in dry. Unlike other -countries, where the cane is only cut during a certain season, on the -plantations on the coast of Peru it is cut and sugar is made from it -during the whole year. - -The pans for boiling the juice are of brass, being a mixture of copper -and tin; the lower pan is generally three feet in diameter at the -bottom, five feet at the top, and five feet deep; the rim which is -placed above this is three feet deep, and above that the brick and wood -work commences, making the whole boiler ten feet deep. The pans, -cylinders, and receivers are cast on the estate by the slaves, and by -them also all the carpentery and blacksmith work are performed. - -I have been rather more particular on this subject than some persons -may think necessary; but it has been with the view of opening another -outlet to British manufactures, namely, that of iron machinery and -implements of agriculture. If the evaporation of the cane juice were -effected by heat communicated by steam, or by preventing atmospheric -pressure on the surface of the liquid while boiling, a considerable -quantity of sugar which is burnt by the present method, and which -constitutes the molasses, would be saved: it would be an advantage of at -least thirty per cent. At the same time that I advert to iron machinery -for the mills, as an article worthy the attention of mercantile -speculators, I would also recommend some stills on an improved -principle, for the brandy distilleries at Pisco, Ica, Cañete, and other -vine countries, as well as those of rum; because the political change in -South America will annul the prohibitory colonial law, and because the -sugar manufacturer would be glad to convert to his advantage that refuse -from which the rum is distilled; at present it is a nuisance to him, or -if applied to any use, it is thrown to the oxen and asses, and they eat -it with great avidity. - -The management of the slaves here is worthy of the imitation of every -planter, both with regard to the comfort of the negroes, and the -profitable result to the owner. I shall describe the laws established, -and mention some other regulations which I suggested to Doña Josefa, -which she approved, and put in practice: she afterwards frequently told -me, that they deserved to be generally adopted, because they would -eventually tend to ameliorate the condition of the slave and benefit the -proprietor. - -A slave was never flogged at Huaito without the consent of the mistress, -who, having heard the complaint made by the overseer or other -task-master, adjudged the number of lashes to be inflicted, or else -determined on some other means of punishment, which she thought more -proper. Her motive for this regulation was, to prevent their being -improperly chastised by any one during the heat of passion, or perhaps -under the influence of revenge. The slave was never questioned as to the -imputed delinquency, because, as she observed, it would only induce them -to disregard the overseer, if he were not implicitly believed, or the -slave were allowed to contradict him. When any doubt presented itself, -she would sometimes send for some other slave, who had either been -present or was near at the time, and make the necessary inquiry; but she -would often say, that she trusted very little to what they said about -each other, quoting the old Spanish proverb as a reason, _la peor cuña, -is del mismo palo_, the worst wedge is from the same block. - -No slave was punished privately; those at least were present who were -acquainted with the crime which had been committed. - -If a slave absented himself, and were afterwards caught, he was -sentenced for the first offence to carry a chain at his leg as many -weeks as he had been absent days; for a repetition, he was sentenced to -the mill, where the most laborious work is to be done; it is also -esteemed the most degrading situation, very few except delinquents being -employed at it. If a recurrence took place, the slave was kept at the -mill during the day with a chain to his leg, and slept in the gaol -during the night. If the fugitive returned home and presented himself to -his mistress, he was pardoned for the first offence; the penalty of the -first was inflicted if it were the second; and that of the second if it -were the third; after which, if the slave persevered in running away he -was sold. - -To promote marriages, all children born out of wedlock were sold while -young; and as the slaves, except some few domestic servants, were all -negroes, if a tawny child made its appearance it was also sold: this -mode was adopted to prevent the negresses from having any intercourse -with the people of the neighbouring villages. - -The negresses from the age of eleven or twelve years were kept separate -from the men, and slept within the walls of the house, under the care of -a _duenna_, until they were married. - -The greatest care was taken of child-bearing women, both with regard to -relief from work and the administration of proper food; a separate -building, called the lying-in hospital, was furnished with beds and -other comforts for them; and if a slave reared six children so that they -could walk, she obtained her liberty, or a release from work for herself -and husband for three days in each week; when, if they worked on the -estate, they were regularly paid for their labour. - -As an improvement of this regulation, I proposed the allowing one day of -rest weekly either to the father or the mother for each child; and Doña -Josefa acknowledged the propriety of it, for, said she, the manumission -of a slave is his ruin if young, and the origin of his distress if old. -She assured me that, at different times, she had given freedom to fifty -slaves, out of whom, she was sorry to say, she could not find one -useful member of society; much less one that was grateful to herself, -although all of them were young at the time they were manumitted, and -some had been put to different trades at her expence. I have frequently -observed, that nine-tenths of the convicts for different crimes at Lima -were freed slaves, generally zambos. - -I am convinced from experience, that if proper magistrates were -appointed in all districts where there is a number of slaves, each -having a competent salary for his subsistence, but removeable every -year, to prevent private connexions with the planters, that the state of -slavery would be freed from its greatest evil, that of a human creature -being subjected to the whip of an offended, irritable, or unjust master; -for how can justice prevail where the plaintiff is the judge, and the -defendant the criminal? or when _a prima instantia_ the accused is -brought to receive his sentence, or suffer the infliction of an -arbitrary punishment. If proprietors were prohibited from using the -whip, or any other cruel chastisements, without the concurrence of an -order from the magistrate, who should inquire summarily into the -circumstances, under the penalty of a heavy fine, the odious epithet of -slave-driver would lose its stigma, at the same time that the slave -would reverence the law that protected as well as punished him, instead -of hating his arbitrary master, and lurking for an opportunity of -revenge. It is the interest as well as the duty of a master to preserve -the health and life of his slave, and the slave has only to dread the -presence of his master under the influence of passion or misinformation: -let this occasion for the exercise of cruelty be avoided, by -transferring the authority to punish from the interested master to an -unbiassed person, and the hand of justice would fall like the -invigorating dew of heaven, while that of passion often rages like the -destructive tornado. - -The principal food of the slaves at Huaito was the flour of maize boiled -with water to the consistency of a hardish paste, to this was added a -quantity of molasses; and beans boiled in the same manner. They had meat -once or twice a week, either fresh or jerked beef. The quantity allowed -was quite sufficient; and I have frequently seen them feeding their -poultry with what they could not eat. Each married man and each widow or -widower was presented annually with a small pig, which they reared with -the refuse of the cane, and some pumpkins which they cultivated: it was -afterwards fattened with maize from their own small plots of ground. -This was an inducement to the slaves to marry, and it kept them from -strolling abroad on Sundays and holidays. Indeed, all the married had -small portions of land allotted to them, and were allowed the use of the -oxen and ploughs belonging to the estate. On an average two hundred fat -pigs were sold annually by the slaves at Huaito, and these generally -produced twelve dollars each; so that two thousand four hundred dollars -were distributed yearly among the slaves for this article alone; but -several of the more industrious fed two, three, or four pigs, by -purchasing maize for them. A convincing proof of their comfortable life -was afforded on a Sunday afternoon; many of the negresses, dressed in -white muslins or gaudily printed calicoes, gold ear-rings, rosaries and -necklaces, stockings and coloured shoes, and a profusion of -handkerchiefs, might be seen dancing with the negro youths to the sound -of their large drums and unharmonious songs: this exhibition certainly -evinced that their minds were uncankered with care. - -Each slave had two working dresses given to him yearly; the men a -flannel shirt and woollen trowsers--the women a flannel petticoat and a -cotton shirt with long sleeves; they had also an allowance of blankets -and ponchos, but whatever other clothes they possessed were purchased -by themselves. Weekly premiums and a small quantity of tobacco were -given according to the class of work in which they were individually -employed; they were also permitted to have the skimmings and other -refuse from the sugar-house for their _guarapo_ or fermented drink. - -The _galpon_, where the slaves lived, on this as on every other -plantation, was a large square enclosure, walled round about twelve feet -high; it was divided into streets, having an open square in the centre -for dancing and their other amusements; the small houses were uniform, -and whitewashed, which with the clean streets made a very neat -appearance. The slaves slept in the galpon, by which means they were -kept from visiting the neighbouring villages or plantations and from -committing depredations. - -Mass was celebrated every morning at six o'clock, and those who chose to -hear it had sufficient time, as the field labourers never went to work -till seven; their tasks were light, they had two hours' rest at noon, -and always returned at six in the evening, and many at four in the -afternoon; after which they attended to their own little farms. I am -certain that a labourer in England does more work in _one_ day than any -slave I ever saw in the Spanish colonies performs in _three_. Those -employed at the mills are more hours at work; but this is considered a -punishment: those employed in the sugar-house have also more hours to -attend; but they have always sufficient rest between the time of -emptying one pan and waiting till it boils again, and this leisure some -occupy in making baskets or in knitting stockings for their own profit. - -The slaves are mustered at mass on Sundays and holidays, and are -required to confess, and receive the communion once a year. The chaplain -teaches the boys and girls the necessary prayers and catechisms, and -superintends the moral conduct of the slaves, being allowed to order -them for punishment in cases of misbehaviour, on reporting them to their -mistress. - -I am ignorant of the treatment which the slaves may receive in the -British colonies; but I feel loath to believe that that mercy which I -have observed to guide the actions of a Spaniard or a Spanish creole -should be a stranger in the breast of an Englishman or an English -creole. If the lot of English slaves be not worse than that of Spanish -slaves, they are more fortunate and more happy than the labouring -classes at home. I have no doubt, but that if a slave were brought to -England, and subjected to the half-starved and hard-worked state of a -day-labourer--to experience all his penury and all his privations--he -would lift up his hands, and request that he might return to his master, -who fed him when hungry, clothed him when naked, and attended to his -wants when sick. If any thing be really wanting to ameliorate the -condition of the English slave, let a wise legislature enact such -regulations as will secure it to him; not place in his hand a weapon -wherewith to sacrifice his master in a fit of frantic exasperation; let -English slaves enjoy the blessings of the English poor, the boast of -every Englishman--an impartial distribution of justice--an equality in -the administration of the law. It is as preposterous to suppose that the -same law should not govern the master and the slave, as that a judge -should not be amenable to the law by which he judges others: and I -sincerely hope, for the honour of my country and countrymen, that they -all feel as did my Uncle Toby: "'tis the fortune of war that has put the -whip into our hands now, where it will be afterwards heaven only knows; -but be it where it will, the brave, Trim, will never use it unkindly." - - -END OF VOLUME I. - - -_Printed by Harris and Co. -Liverpool._ - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Historical and Descriptive Narrative -of Twenty Years' Residence in South America (Vol 1 of 3), by William Bennet Stevenson - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RESIDENCE IN SOUTH AMERICA *** - -***** This file should be named 55775-8.txt or 55775-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/7/7/55775/ - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Martin Pettit and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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B. Stevenson. - </title> - <style type="text/css"> - - p { margin-top: .75em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .75em; - } - - p.bold {text-align: center; font-weight: bold;} - p.bold2 {text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 150%;} - - h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; - } - h1 span, h2 span { display: block; text-align: center; } - #id1 { font-size: smaller } - - - hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; - } - - hr.smler { - width: 15%; - margin-top: 0.5em; - margin-bottom: 0.5em; - margin-left: 42.5%; - margin-right: 42.5%; - clear: both; - } - - body{margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; - } - - table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; border-collapse: collapse; border: none; text-align: right;} - - .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - text-indent: 0px; - } /* page numbers */ - - .center {text-align: center;} - .smaller {font-size: smaller;} - .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - .mynote { background-color: #DDE; color: black; padding: .5em; margin-left: 20%; - margin-right: 20%; } /* colored box for notes at beginning of file */ - .space-above {margin-top: 3em;} - .right {text-align: right;} - .left {text-align: left;} - .s3 {display: inline; margin-left: 3em;} - .b1 {border-style:solid solid solid none;} - .b3 {border-style:solid none solid none;} - .b4 {border-style:none solid none none;} - - .poem {display: inline-block; text-align: left;} - .poem br {display: none;} - .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} - .poem div {margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Historical and Descriptive Narrative of -Twenty Years' Residence in South America (Vol 1 of 3), by William Bennet Stevenson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Historical and Descriptive Narrative of Twenty Years' Residence in South America (Vol 1 of 3) - Containing travels in Arauco, Chile, Peru, and Colombia - with an account of the revolution, its rise, progress, and - results - -Author: William Bennet Stevenson - -Release Date: October 19, 2017 [EBook #55775] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RESIDENCE IN SOUTH AMERICA *** - - - - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Martin Pettit and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class = "mynote"><p class="center">Transcriber's Note:<br /><br /> -Obvious typographic errors have been corrected.<br /></p></div> -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><a name="cover.jpg" id="cover.jpg"></a><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover" /></div> - -<hr /> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/i000.jpg" alt="View of Callao, and distant view of Lima" /></div> - -<p class="bold"><span class="smcap">View of Callao, and distant view of Lima.</span><br /> -<i>Engraved for Stevenson's Narrative of South America.</i></p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p> -<p class="bold">A</p> - -<p class="bold">HISTORICAL</p> - -<p class="bold">AND</p> - -<p class="bold2">DESCRIPTIVE NARRATIVE</p> - -<p class="bold">OF</p> - -<h1>TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCE<br /><br />IN<br /><br />SOUTH AMERICA,</h1> - -<p class="bold space-above"><i>IN THREE VOLUMES</i>;</p> - -<p class="bold space-above">CONTAINING TRAVELS IN ARAUCO, CHILE, PERU, AND COLOMBIA;<br /> -WITH AN ACCOUNT OF<br /> -THE REVOLUTION, ITS RISE, PROGRESS, AND RESULTS.</p> - -<p class="space-above"> </p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p class="space-above"> </p> - -<p class="bold2">BY W. B. STEVENSON,</p> - -<p class="bold">FORMERLY PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE PRESIDENT AND CAPTAIN GENERAL OF QUITO,<br /> -COLONEL, AND GOVERNOR OF ESMERALDAS, CAPTAIN DE FRAGATA, AND LATE<br /> -SECRETARY TO THE VICE ADMIRAL OF CHILE,—HIS EXCELLENCY<br /> -THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD COCHRANE, &c.</p> - -<p class="space-above"> </p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p class="bold">VOL. I.</p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p class="bold space-above">LONDON:<br />HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO.<br /> -CONSTABLE & Co. AND OLIVER & BOYD, EDINBURGH.<br />MDCCCXXV.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p> - -<p class="bold">TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE</p> - -<p class="bold2">RIGHT HON. THOMAS LORD COCHRANE,</p> - -<p class="bold2">Marquis of Maranham,</p> - -<p class="bold">AS A TESTIMONY OF RESPECT FOR THE IMPORTANT SERVICES</p> - -<p class="bold">RENDERED TO</p> - -<p class="bold">SOUTH AMERICAN EMANCIPATION,</p> - -<p class="bold">AND TO THE COMMERCIAL INTERESTS OF GREAT BRITAIN,</p> - -<p class="bold2">THIS WORK</p> - -<p class="bold">IS (BY PERMISSION) HUMBLY DEDICATED.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p> - -<h2>PREFACE.</h2> - -<p>The interest which the late successful revolution in Spanish America has -awakened in Europe renders any genuine account of the new world so -highly acceptable to the British nation, that it has become an almost -imperative duty in those who may possess original matter to communicate -it to the public; for it may be said, without the least exaggeration, -that although the countries thus emancipated were discovered in the -sixteenth century, they have remained almost unknown till the beginning -of the nineteenth.</p> - -<p>Fully convinced of these facts, and being urged by my friends, when I -was on the eve of again crossing the Atlantic, to publish my collection -of notes and memoranda—the gleanings of a twenty years' residence—in -order to contribute my quota to the small stock of authentic matter -already laid before an anxious public, I have been induced to postpone -my voyage, and to embody my observations in the manner in which they now -appear.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span></p><p>It is undoubtedly of great importance to become acquainted with the -features of a country which has undergone any remarkable change in its -political, religious, or literary career, before that change took place; -and it is equally important to know the cause of and the means by which -the change was effected. I have therefore given a succinct history of -the state of the colonies before their fortunate struggle began to -germinate, by describing their political and ecclesiastical -institutions; the character, genius, and education of the different -classes of inhabitants; their peculiar customs and habits; their -historical remains and antiquities; and lastly, the produce and -manufactures of the country.</p> - -<p>My opportunities for obtaining materials for the formation of this work -were such as few individuals even among the natives or Spaniards could -possess, and such as no <i>foreigner</i> could possibly enjoy at the period -of my residence.</p> - -<p>Dr. Robertson's celebrated history renders any account of the discovery -and conquest of America unnecessary; but as the Spanish authors from -whom his work was collected always kept in view the necessity of lulling -the anxiety of general curiosity with respect to the subsequent state of -the countries under the Spanish crown, that work cannot be supposed to -be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span> better than the materials from which it is formed would allow; to -which I may add, that the different books published by the philosophic -Humboldt are too scientific, and enter into too few details, to become -fit for general perusal.</p> - -<p>I am induced to believe, that my descriptions of tribunals, corporate -bodies, the laws, and administration, the taxes and duties, will not be -considered unimportant, because the newly-formed governments will follow -in great measure the establishments of Spain, modified by a few -alterations, perhaps more nominal than real. Indeed, the present -authorities have already determined, that so far as the Spanish codes do -not interfere with the independence of the country, they are to be -considered as the fundamental laws of the different tribunals.</p> - -<p>The Plates are from original Drawings taken by Don Jose Carrillo, a -native of Quito, now in England.</p> - -<p>Should the following pages merit the approbation of the British public, -the author will feel highly gratified by having fulfilled his duty in -both hemispheres; nor will this reward in the old world be accounted -less honourable than that which he has already obtained in the new.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CONTENTS OF VOL. I.</h2> - -<table summary="CONTENTS OF VOL. I."> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td><span class="smaller">PAGE</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. I.</span>—Arrival at Mocha....Some Account of Mayo, one -of the Cape de Verd Islands touched at on our Passage....Description of Mocha, its Productions, &c....Leave Mocha -and land at Tucapel Viejo....Description of the Indians, -their Dress, &c....Indians take me to their Home....Description of the House, Family, Food, Diversions....Appearance of the Country....What Trade might be introduced</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. II.</span>—Leave Tucapel Viejo, and arrive at Tubul....Description -of our Breakfast on the road....Stay at the House -of the Cacique of Tubul....Some Appearances of Civilization....Game of Peuca, Wrestling, &c....Anchorage, -Trade, &c....Face of the Country....Arrival at Arauco....Taken to the Commandant, Interview described....Town -of Arauco....Indians who come to barter....Weaving of -fine <i>ponchos</i>....Excursion to the Water-mills on the -Carampangue River....Entertainments, <i>Mate</i>, &c....Visit Nacimiento, Santa Juana, and return to Arauco....Ordered to Conception</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. III.</span>—Account of Cultivation of Farms, &c. in Araucania....Thrashing, -&c....Produce....Cattle....Locality....Topographical -Divisions....Government (Indian)....Laws and Penalties....Military System....Arms, Standards, -&c....Division of Spoil....Treaty of Peace....Religion....Marriages....Funerals....Spanish Cities -founded in Araucania....Ideas on New Colonies....Commerce</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. IV.</span>—Valdivia....Port....Fortifications....River....City-foundation....Revolutions....Inhabitants....Garrison....<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span>Government....Rents -and Resources....Churches....Exiles....Missions in the Province of Valdivia....War -with the Indians, and Possession of Osorno....Extract -from a Letter in the Araucanian Tongue, and Translation</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. V.</span>—City of Conception de Mocha....Foundation....Situation....Government....Tribunals....Bishop....Military....Churches....Houses....Inhabitants and Dress....Provincial<br /> -Jurisdiction....Produce....Throwing the <i>Laso</i>....Fruit....Timber -Trees....Shrubs....Mines....Birds....Wild Animals....Lion Hunt....Shepherd Dogs....Breeding Capons....Return to Conception</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. VI.</span>—Sent to Talcahuano....Description of the Bay -and Anchorage....Plain between Conception and Talcahuano....Prospectus of a Soap -Manufactory here....Coal Mine....Town, Custom-house, Inhabitants, &c....Fish, &c. caught in the Bay....Colonial -Commerce....Prospectus of a Sawing Mill</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_118">118</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. VII.</span>—Leave Talcahuano in the Dolores....Passage -to Callao....Arrival....Taken to the Castle....Leave Callao....Road to Lima....Conveyed to Prison</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_130">130</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. VIII.</span>—Lima, Origin of its -Name....Pachacamac....Foundation of Lima....Pizarro's Palace....Situation of -the City....Form of the Valley Rimac....River....Climate....Temperature....Mists and Rain....Soil....Earthquakes....Produce</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_143">143</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. IX.</span>—Viceroys and Archbishop of Lima....Viceroyalty, -Extent....Viceroy's Titles and Privileges....Royal Audience....Cabildo....Forms of Law....Military....Religion....Inquisition....Sessions -and Processes....Archbishop....Royal Patronage....Ecclesiastical Tribunals....Chapter, <i>Cabildo Ecclesiastical</i>....Curates....Asylum -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span>of Immunity....Minor Tribunals....<i>Consulado</i>....Crusade....Treasury....Accompts....<i>Temporalidades</i>, -<i>Protomedicato</i></td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_172">172</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. X.</span>—Taxes, Alcavala....Indian Tribute....Fifths of -the Mines....Lances....Stamped Paper....Tobacco....<i>Media Anata</i>....<i>Aprovechamientos</i>....<i>Composicion</i> and -<i>Confirmacion</i> of Lands....Royal Ninths....Venal Offices....Estrays....Confiscations....Fines....Vacant -Successions....<i>Almoxarifasgo</i>....<i>Corso</i>....<i>Armada</i>....Consulate....<i>Cirquito</i>....Vacant Benefices....<i>Mesada -Ecclesiastica</i>....<i>Media Anata Ecclesiastica</i>....Restitutions....Bulls</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_195">195</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. XI.</span>—City of Lima....Figure and Division....Walls....Bridge....Houses....Churches....Manner of Building -Parishes....Convents....Nunneries....Hospitals....Colleges....<i>Plasa Mayor</i>....Market....Interior of the -Viceroy's Palace....Ditto Archbishop's Ditto....Ditto Sagrario....Ditto Cathedral....Ditto Cavildo</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_210">210</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. XII.</span>—Particular Description -of Parish Churches....Of Santo Domingo....Altar of the Rosary....St. Rosa -and other Altars....Cloisters....Sanctuary of Saint -Rosa....Church of San Francisco....Chapels <i>Del Milagro</i>, -<i>De Dolores</i>, <i>De los Terceros</i>....Pantheon....Cloisters, -San Diego....San Agustin....<i>La Merced</i>....Profession -of a Nun, or taking the Veil....Hospitals of San Andres, -of San Bartolome and others....Colleges of Santo Toribio, -San Carlos, <i>Del Principe</i>....University....Inquisition....Taken to it in 1806....Visit to it in 1812, after the -Abolition....Inquisitorial Punishments....Foundling Hospital....Lottery....Mint....Pantheon</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_237">237</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. XIII.</span>—The Population of Lima....Remarks....Table -of Castes....The Qualifications of Creoles....Population -and Division....Spaniards....Creoles, White....Costume....Indians....African Negroes....Their <i>Cofradias</i>, -and Royal Personages....Queen Rosa....Creole<br /> -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span>Negroes....Mestisos....Mulattos....Zambos....Chinos....<i>Quarterones and Quinterones</i>....Theatre....Bull -Circus....Royal Cockpit....Alamedas....Bathing Places -....Piazzas....<i>Amancaes</i>....Elevation and Oration Bells....Processions of Corpus Christi, Santa Rosa, San -Francisco and Santo Domingo....Publication of Bulls....Ceremonies on the Arrival of a Viceroy</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_283">283</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. XIV.</span>—Fruits in the Gardens of Lima....Flowers....Particular Dishes, or Cookery....<i>Chuno</i>, dried Potatoes....<i>Chochoca</i>, -dried Maize....Sweetmeats....Meals....Diseases....Medical Observations....On the Commerce -of Lima....Profitable Speculations</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_330">330</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. XV.</span>—Visit to Pisco....Town of Pisco....Bay of -Pisco....Curious Production of Salt....<i>Huano</i>....<i>Huanaes</i>....Vineyards, Brandy....Vineyard <i>de las -Hoyas</i>....Fruits....Chilca, Village of Indians....Leave Lima, -Road to Chancay....Pasamayo House....<i>Niña de la -Huaca</i>....Maize, Cultivation....Use of <i>Huano</i>....Hogs....On the Produce -of Maize....Different kinds of....Time of Harvesting....Uses of....Chicha of....Sugar -of....Town of Chancay....<i>Colcas</i>....Town of Huacho....<i>Chacras</i> of the Indians....On the Character of the Native -Indians....Refutation of what some Authors have said of....Manners and Customs of....Tradition of Manco -Capac....Ditto Camaruru....Ditto Bochica....Ditto -Quitzalcoatl....These Traditions favourable to the Spaniards....Government of Manco Capac....Representation -of the Death of the Inca....Feast of Corpus Christi at Huacho....Indian Dances....Salinas</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_355">355</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class="smcap">Chap. XVI.</span>—Villa of Huara....Description....Village of -Supe....Ruins of an Indian Town....<i>Huacas</i>, Burying -Places....Bodies preserved entire....Village of Barranca....Earthquake in 1806....Barranca River....Bridge of -Ropes....Village of Pativilca....Sugar Plantation....Produce and Profit....Cane -cultivated....Mills....Sugar-house....Management of Slaves....Regulations &c. of Slaves</td> - <td style="vertical-align: bottom"><a href="#Page_410">410</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Arrival at Mocha....Some account of Mayo, one of the Cape de Verd -Islands touched at on our passage....Description of Mocha, its -Productions, &c....Leave Mocha, and land at Tucapel -Viejo....Description of the Indians, their Dress, &c....Indians -take me to their Home....Description of the House, Family, Food, -Diversions....Appearance of the Country....What Trade might be -introduced.</p></blockquote> - -<p>On the 14th of February, 1804, I landed on the Island of Mocha, after a -passage of upwards of five months from England, during which we passed -between the Cape de Verd Islands, and touched at one of them called -Mayo, for the purpose of procuring salt, which appears to be the only -article of commerce. It is produced by admitting the sea water on flats, -embanked next to the sea, during the spring tides, and allowing it to -evaporate: the salt is then collected and carried off before the return -of the high tides, when the water is again admitted, and the same -process takes place. The sea water is here strongly impregnated with -salt, owing probably to the great evaporation caused by the intense -power of the heat, which also aids and hastens the process on shore. The -inhabitants<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> whom I saw were all blacks, with the solitary exception of -a priest, and many of them in a state of nudity, even to an age at which -decency if not modesty requires a covering. A small quantity of bananas, -the only fruit we could procure, and some poultry, were brought from St. -Jago's, another of the islands, visible from Mayo.</p> - -<p>The Island of Mocha, situate in 38° 21´ S. and that called Santa Maria, -lying about 80 miles to the northward of it, were the patrimony of a -family, now residing at Conception, of the name of Santa Maria, who -lived on the latter, and sent some people to reside at Mocha, but after -the commencement of the war between England and Spain, in 1780, the -family, as well as the whole of the inhabitants, were ordered by the -government of Chile to quit the islands, under the pretence that these -were a resort for smugglers: a pretence derived from the common error, -that privacy is preventive of contraband.</p> - -<p>During the time that Mocha was in the possession of the Santa Marias a -number of the original indian inhabitants, belonging to the tribe found -on it when first visited by the Spaniards in 1549, resided there, but -they were also removed to Conception.</p> - -<p>These two islands having been once inhabited, there are yet to be found -some few remains of cattle, which have continued to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>procreate: on Mocha -are horses and pigs, and some barn door fowls. Mocha is about fifteen -miles in circumference, hilly in the centre, and sloping towards the -coast, more so on the western side, where a tolerably good anchorage and -a safe landing place, on a sandy beach, may be found. Fresh water flows -from several springs; wild turnips, mint and other herbs grow in -abundance; the trees on the hilly part are principally the white -cinnamon, named by the Spaniards <i>canelo</i>, the magui, the luma, a tree -called <i>espino</i>, and others. Here are also apple, peach and cherry -trees, with a variety of wild strawberries, and myrtle-berries. Some -solitary seals yet remain on the rocks on the south side of the island.</p> - -<p>I left Mocha after remaining there alone thirty-two days, and landed -from the brig Polly at Tucapel Viejo, the residence of one of the -Caciques, or Ulmenes, of the Araucanian indians, by whom I was most -hospitably treated.</p> - -<p>The male indians who appeared on the beach were of a reddish brown or -copper colour, few of them reaching to the height of six feet. They were -finely shaped and very muscular, having a round face, well formed -forehead, small black eyes, flattish nose, moderately thick lips and -good teeth, but no beard. The whole of the countenance is expressive of -a certain portion of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> vivacity, and not uninteresting; the hair is black -and strong, all of it being drawn behind the head and platted. The women -are lower in stature than the men, their features similar, and some of -the girls, if I be not allowed to call them handsome, I cannot abstain -from saying are very pretty. The females wear their hair long, and -platted behind their heads: it is afterwards wrapped round with a tape -about an inch and a half broad, to one edge of which are attached a -number of small hawks' bells: the plait is allowed to hang down the -back, and not unfrequently reaches below their knees.</p> - -<p>The dress or costume of the indians at first appeared very singular to -me. In the men it consisted of a flannel shirt, and a pair of loose -drawers of the same material, generally white, reaching below the calves -of the legs; a coarse species of rug about two yards wide and two and a -half long, with a slit in the middle through which the head was passed: -this garment, if so I may style it, hanging over the shoulders and -reaching below the knees, is called a <i>poncho</i>. The common ones seemed -to be made from a brownish sort of wool, but some were very fancifully -woven in stripes of different colours and devices, such as animals, -birds, flowers, &c. Of the poncho I shall have occasion to speak again, -as it is universally worn in all the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>provinces of South America which I -visited; but I must say here, that I considered it as an excellent -riding dress; for hanging loosely and covering the whole body, it leaves -the arms quite at liberty to manage the whip and reins. The hat commonly -worn is in the form of a cone, without any skirts; for shoes they -substitute a piece of raw bull's hide cut to the shape of the sole of -the foot, and tied on with slender thongs of leather. The females wear a -long white flannel tunic, without sleeves, and an upper garment of black -flannel, extending below their knees, the sides closed up to the waist, -and the corners from the back brought over the shoulders and fastened to -the corners of the piece in front with two large thorns, procured from a -species of cactus, or with large silver brooches: it is afterwards -closed round the waist with a girdle about three inches broad, generally -woven in devices of different colours; very often, however, nothing but -the white tunic is worn, with the girdle, and a small mantle or cloak -called <i>ichella</i>. The favourite colour among the indians appeared to be -a bluish green, though I saw few of their garments of this colour at -Tucapel, but remarked afterwards, at the town of Arauco, that all those -who came to sell or barter their fruit, &c. wore it. The females -generally have nothing on their heads or feet, but have a profusion of -silver rings<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> on their fingers, and on their arms and necks an abundance -of glass bead bracelets and necklaces.</p> - -<p>The occupation of the men, as in most unenlightened countries, appeared -to be confined to riding out to see their cattle, their small portions -of land, cultivated by the women, and to hunting. The females were -employed spinning wool with a spindle about ten inches long, having a -circular piece of burnt clay at the bottom, to assist and regulate the -rotary motion given by twirling it with the finger and thumb at the -upper end. They generally sit on the ground to spin, and draw a thread -about a yard long, which they wind on the spindle, tie a knot on the -upper end, and draw another thread: though this work is very tedious, -compared to what may be done by our common spinning-wheels, yet their -dexterity and constancy enable them to manufacture all their wearing -apparel. Weaving is conducted on a plan fully as simple as spinning. The -frame-work for the loom is composed of eight slender poles, cut in the -woods when wanted, and afterwards burnt; four of these are stuck in the -ground at right angles, the other four are lashed with thongs at the -top, forming a square, and the frame is complete. The treadles are then -placed about a foot from the front, having a roller at the back of the -frame for the yarn and another in front for the cloth, both tied<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> fast -with thongs; the sleys, made of worsted, doubled, have two knots tied in -the middle of each pair of threads, leaving a small space between the -knots through which to pass the warp. After all the yarns are passed -through the sleys the ends are tied in small bunches to the roller, -which is turned round by two females, one at each end, whilst another -attends to the balls in front; the other ends of the yarn are then tied -to the roller in front. The thongs connected with the treadle are -fastened one to each of the sleys, and a thong being made fast to the -upper part of one of them is thrown over a loose slender pole, placed on -the top of the frame and then made fast to the other sley, so that when -one treadle is pressed by the foot it draws down one of the sleys, -holding every alternate thread, and the other rises, carrying with it -the other half of the warp. Instead of a shuttle the yarn is wound round -a slender stick, of the necessary length, and passed through the opening -formed by the rising of one of the sleys and the falling of the other; -the contrary treadle is then pressed down, and a slender piece of hard -heavy wood, longer than the breadth of the cloth, is passed across, and -the weaver taking hold of both ends drags it towards her and compresses -the thread. This piece of wood, shaped somewhat like a long sword, is -called the <i>macana</i>, and has often been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> resorted to as a weapon in time -of war. The same rude mode of weaving is common, though not universal, -in South America. The manner of weaving ponchos I shall describe when -treating of the town of Arauco, for what I saw here did not deserve -attention.</p> - -<p>Besides the laborious occupation of spinning and weaving, and the usual -household labour, each wife (for polygamy is allowed, every man marrying -as many wives as he choose, or rather, as many as he can maintain) has -to present to her husband daily a dish of her own cooking, and annually -a <i>poncho</i> of her own spinning and weaving, besides flannel for shirts -and drawers. Thus an indian's house generally contains as many fire -places and looms as he has wives, and Abbé Molina says, that instead of -asking a man how many wives he has, it is more polite to ask him how -many fires he keeps.</p> - -<p>The females are cleanly in their houses and persons; dirt is never seen -on their clothes, and they frequently bathe, or wash themselves three or -four times a day. The men also pay great attention to the cleanliness of -their persons. The females attend to the cultivation of their gardens, -in which the men work but little, considering themselves absolute -masters—the lords of the creation, born only to command,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> and the -women, being the weaker, to obey: sentiments which polygamy supports; -plurality of wives tending to destroy those tender feelings of -attachment which we find in countries where the law allows only one -wife. The principal part of the labour of their farms is performed by -the women, who often plough, sow, reap and carry to the thrashing floor -the wheat or barley, which, when trodden out by horses, is thrown into -the air, that the wind may blow away the chaff. I saw no other grain at -Tucapel or its vicinity but wheat and barley, in small patches; but I -was told that they produced a hundred fold.</p> - -<p>The care of the offspring is entirely committed to the women. A mother -immediately on her delivery takes her child, and going down to the -nearest stream of water, washes herself and it, and returns to the usual -labours of her station. The children are never swaddled, nor their -bodies confined by any tight clothing; they are wrapped in a piece of -flannel, laid on a sheep skin, and put into a basket suspended from the -roof, which occasionally receives a push from any one passing, and -continues swinging for some minutes. They are allowed to crawl about -nearly naked until they can walk; and afterwards, to the age of ten or -twelve years, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> boys wear a small poncho, and the girls a piece of -flannel, wrapped round their waist, reaching down to the knees. The -mother, after that age, abandons the boys to the care of the father, on -whom they attend and wait as servants; and the daughters are instructed -in the several works which it will ere long become their duty to fulfil. -To the loose clothing which the children wear from their infancy may -doubtless be attributed the total absence of deformity among the -indians. Perhaps some travellers might suggest, that confinement in any -shape would be considered disgraceful to the haughty Araucanians, who -are pleased to call themselves, "the never vanquished, always victors."</p> - -<p>The house to which I was conveyed by the indians was about five leagues -from the coast, situated in a ravine, towards the farther extremity of -which the range of hills on each side appeared to unite. A stream of -excellent water ran at the bottom of the small valley, winding its way -to the sea, and fordable at this time of the year, but visibly much -deeper at other times, from the marks of the surface water on the banks -and on several large pieces of rock lying in the stream.</p> - -<p>The low part of the ravine (at first more than three miles wide, and -gradually closing as we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> rode up towards the house) was cultivated in -small patches; and among the brushwood were to be seen clusters of -apple, pear and peach trees, some of them so laden with fruit that their -branches were bent to the ground. The sides of the mountains displayed -in gorgeous profusion the gifts of nature; the same kind of fruit trees, -laden with their ripe produce, enlivened the view, and relieved the eye -from the deep green of the woods which covered the landscape, save here -and there the naked spire of a rock washed by the rains and whitened by -the sunbeams. The situation of the house appeared to have been chosen -not so much for its picturesque beauty, as for the facility of defending -it: the only approach was the road which we took, it being impossible to -descend the mountains on either side—an impossibility which appeared to -increase as we drew nearer to the house.</p> - -<p>Four or five of the young indians, or <i>mosotones</i>, rode forward to the -house, and when it first opened to our view a crowd of women and -children had ranged themselves in front, gaping in wild astonishment at -my very unexpected appearance. We rode up to the house, which stood on a -small plain, about thirty yards above the level of the stream, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> -alighted amid the din of questions and answers equally unintelligible to -me. The wild stare of curiosity, sweetened with a compassionate -expression of countenance, precluded all fear, and I could not avoid -saying to myself, Great Author of Nature, I now for the first time -behold thy animated works, unadorned with the luxuries, and free, may I -hope, from the concomitant vices, of civilization!</p> - -<p>The house was a thatched building, about sixty feet long, and twenty -broad, with mud walls seven feet high, two doors in the front, opposite -to two others at the back, and without windows. The back part on the -inside was divided into births, the divisions being formed of canes -thinly covered with clay, projecting about six feet from the wall, with -a bed place three feet wide, raised two from the floor; the whole -appearing somewhat like a range of stalls in a stable. Opposite to these -births, and running from one end to the other, excepting the spaces at -the two doors, the floor was elevated about ten inches, and was six feet -wide: this elevation was partly covered with small carpets and rugs, -which with five or six low tables composed the whole of the household -furniture. The two doors on the back side led to the kitchen, a range of -building as long as the house, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> entirely detached from it: here were -several hearths, or fire-places, surrounded with small earthen pots, -pans and some baskets made of split cane; and over each fire-place was -suspended a flat kind of basket holding meat and fish, and answering the -purpose of a safe: it is called by the indians a <i>chigua</i>. The horses -were unsaddled, and the saddles placed on the floor at one end of the -house.</p> - -<p>The family, or what I conceived to be the family, was composed of -upwards of forty individuals. The father was between forty and fifty -years old, and apparently enjoyed all the privileges of a patriarch. -There were eight women, whom I considered to be his wives, though during -my stay he appeared to associate with only one of them, if allowing her -to wait upon him whilst eating and receiving from the others their -respective dishes (which she placed successively on the small low table) -can be called association. The young men eat the food brought to them at -different tables, or in different parts of the house. The women and -children adjourned to the kitchen, and there partook of what was left by -the male part of the family. From the first day of my arrival to the -last of my stay I always ate out of the same dish with the Cacique, or -Ulmen, for his rank<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> I did not exactly know. Our fingers supplied the -place of forks, and large muscle shells that of spoons: knives I never -saw used at table.</p> - -<p>Our food chiefly consisted of fresh mutton, jirked beef, fish, or -poultry, cut into small pieces and stewed with potatoes or pompions, -seasoned with onions, garlic and cayenne pepper, or capsicum. Our -breakfast, at about sunrise, was composed of some flour or toasted -wheat, coarsely ground, or crushed, and mixed with water, either hot or -cold, as it suited the palate of the eater. This flour is produced or -manufactured by first roasting the wheat or barley in an earthen pan -placed over a slow fire, until the grain takes a pale brown hue. When -cold it is ground on a flat stone, about eight inches or a foot wide, -and two feet or more in length, as they can best procure it. This is put -on the ground, with the end next the female raised about four inches. -She then takes another stone, which reaches nearly across the first, and -weighs from six to ten pounds; this she presses with her hands, and -bruises the grain, which is crushed to a state somewhat like coarsely -ground coffee. At the lower end of the stone is generally placed a clean -lamb skin, with the wool downwards, which receives the flour, called by -the indians <i>machica</i>. Our dinner<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> (made up of the stews or messes which -I have mentioned) was generally served at noon in calabashes, or gourds -cut in two, being three inches deep, and some of them from twelve to -twenty inches in diameter. Our supper, which we took at eight o'clock, -was milk, with <i>machica</i>, or potatoes.</p> - -<p>I cannot refrain from describing a favourite preparation of milk, called -by the natives <i>milcow</i>. Potatoes and a species of pompion, <i>zapallo</i>, -were roasted, the insides of both taken out, and kneaded together with a -small quantity of salt, and sometimes with eggs. This paste was made -into little cakes, each about the size of a dollar, and a large quantity -was put into a pot of milk, and allowed to boil for a quarter of an -hour. I joined the Indians in considering it an excellent dish. Their -poultry, fed on barley and potatoes, was fat and good; their fish, both -from the sea and the river, capital; and their beef and mutton in -fatness and flavour were far above mediocrity.</p> - -<p>The beverage at this time of the year, there being abundance of apples, -was principally new cider, but it was sufficiently fermented to produce -intoxication, which I had several opportunities of observing among the -men: to the credit of the women, however, I must say, that I never saw<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> -one of them in a state of ebriety. I was informed that at other times of -the year they fermented liquors from the maize, the process of which I -shall afterwards describe. Their cider is made in the following rude -manner:—a quantity of apples is procured from the woods by the women; -they are put into a species of trough, from eight to ten feet long, -being the trunk of a large tree scooped into a shape somewhat similar to -a canoe. A woman then takes a stick, or cane, nearly the length of the -trough, and standing at one extremity, beats the apples to pieces. They -are afterwards collected at one end, pressed with the hands, and the -juice is received either in large calabashes (dried gourds) or in -prepared goats' hides. It is now carried to the house, poured into an -earthen jar, and left to ferment. The jars are made by the Indians of -baked clay:—some will hold upwards of a hundred gallons, which shews -that these people have some skill in pottery.</p> - -<p>The only in-door diversion which I witnessed among the Indians at -Tucapel was what they certainly considered a dance. About sixteen men -and women intermixed stood up in a row, and following each other, -trotted about the room to the sound of a small drum, which was made by -drawing a piece of the fresh skin of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> a kid or lamb over an earthen pot -used for cooking. This diversion I saw but twice, and in both instances -after supper. Indeed the indians are not calculated for this kind of -amusement. They associate with each other but little. The females are -considered inferior to the men, and consequently no harmony or -conviviality appears to result from their company. The principal -out-door diversion among the young men is the <i>palican</i>: this game is -called by the Spaniards <i>chueca</i>, and is similar to one I have seen in -England called bandy. Molina says it is like the <i>calcio</i> of the -Florentines and the <i>orpasto</i> of the Greeks.</p> - -<p>The company divides into two sets. Each person has a stick about four -feet long, curved at the lower end. A small hard ball, sometimes of -wood, is thrown on the ground: the parties separate; some advance -towards the ball, and others stand aloof to prevent it when struck from -going beyond the limits assigned, which would occasion the loss of the -game. I was told that the most important matters have been adjusted in -the different provinces of Araucania by crooked sticks and a ball: the -decision of the dispute is that of the game—the winner of the game -being the winner of the dispute.</p> - -<p>At Arauco I heard that the present bishop of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> Conception, Roa, having -passed the territory belonging to the indians with their permission, (a -formality never to be dispensed with) on his visitation to Valdivia, was -apprehended in returning for not having solicited and obtained a pass, -or safe-conduct from the <i>Uthalmapu</i>, or principal political chief of -the country which he had to traverse, called by the indians, the -<i>Lauguen Mapu</i>, or marine district. His lordship was not only made -prisoner but despoiled of all his equipage; and it became a matter of -dispute, which nothing but the <i>palican</i> could decide, whether he should -be put to death or allowed to proceed to Conception. The game was played -in the presence of the bishop: he had the satisfaction of seeing his -party win, and his life was saved. The propriety, however, of keeping -the booty taken from him was not questioned by any one.</p> - -<p>That part of the country which I had an opportunity of visiting with -some of these kind indians was not extensive, but extremely beautiful. -The soil was rich, every kind of vegetation luxuriant, and some of the -trees were very large: the principal ones were the <i>espino</i>, the <i>luma</i>, -the <i>maque</i>, and the <i>pehuen</i>.</p> - -<p>I was informed that the indians have both gold and silver mines, and -that they are acquainted with the art of extracting the metal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> from the -ores. One might presume that there was some foundation for this report -from the ornaments made of the precious metals seen in their possession: -they are of Spanish manufacture, and perhaps either the spoils of war or -the result of barter.</p> - -<p>A trade of no great importance might be established here. The wool, -which is good, and timber, with some gold and silver, would be given in -return for knives, axes, hatchets, white and greenish coarse flannel, -ponchos, bridle bits, spurs, &c.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Leave Tucapel Viejo, and arrive at Tubul....Description of our -Breakfast on the road....Stay at the house of the Cacique of -Tubul....Some Appearances of Civilization....Game of Pencs, -Wrestling, &c....Anchorage, Trade, &c....Face of the -Country....Arrival at Arauco....Taken to the Commandant, Interview -described....Town of Arauco....Indians who came to -barter....Weaving of fine <i>Ponchos</i>....Excursion to the Water-mills -on the Carampangue River....Entertainments, <i>Mate</i>, &c....Visit -Nacimiento, Santa Juana, and return to Arauco....Ordered to -Conception.</p></blockquote> - -<p>At about three o'clock, on a moonlight morning, in the month of April, I -left the house of my kind Toqui, with five indians. We were all on -horseback, and travelled till after sunrise, when arriving at what -appeared to me to be a common resting place, we alighted, and I -witnessed a most romantic scene.</p> - -<p>The indians were habited in their rude costume, the poncho, the -sugar-loaf hat, the hide sandals, and spurs with rowels at least three -inches in diameter. Their horses were as uncouthly caparisoned: a deep -saddle was covered with three or four sheep skins, over which was spread -a bluish rug of long shaggy wool, the crupper with a broad piece of -leather hanging across the horse's rump, and a broader strap attached to -each side of the saddle passing round the horse<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> behind, about midway -down the thighs, and fastened to the cross piece to prevent its slipping -to the ground. These straps were fancifully stamped, and cut into -various shapes and devices. The huge wooden box stirrups were large -enough to hold the feet of the rider; and the heavy-bitted bridle had -beautifully platted reins, terminating in a lash or whip of the same -workmanship, divided at the end into eight or ten minor plaits, forming -a tuft resembling a tassel.</p> - -<p>The spot at which we arrived was enchanting. The branches of a large -carob tree extended themselves above our heads, while the beautifully -green sward was spread under our feet. A small stream of water worked -its way among the pebbles on one side, and in the distance on the other -the Pacific Ocean, silvered with the rays of the newly risen sun, -heightened in brilliancy by the intervening deep green of the woods, -presented itself to our view. What an awfully grand collection of the -works of nature! He who could behold them without feeling his bosom -swell with such sensations of delight as tongue cannot utter nor pen -describe, cannot be made by this faint description to partake of what I -felt at that moment.</p> - -<p>After the indians had alighted, part of them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> ran to the brook and -brought some water, in bullocks' horns, which they always carry with -them for this purpose. They divided it among their comrades, each -receiving about a pint. Every one now took from his girdle a small -leather bag, the skin of an animal of the size of a cat, and putting a -handful of roasted flour into the horn with the water, stirred it about -with a small stick and eat it. I followed their example, and this -mixture constituted our breakfast. We then pursued our journey. About -noon we arrived at Tubul, and went to a large house belonging, as I -supposed, to the Toqui, or Cacique. Here are several other houses, -forming a small hamlet, all of whose inhabitants are indians.</p> - -<p>We were regaled with the usual fare at dinner, with the addition of a -lamb, which was killed after our arrival, cut into halves, and roasted -over the embers. What may be considered as a certain portion of -civilization made its appearance at Tubul: the roasted lamb was laid on -a large ill-fashioned silver dish, some silver spoons and forks were -placed on the Toqui's table: not a knife was to be seen, but the -drinking horns had bottoms. Besides the cider some strong ill tasted -brandy and thick sweet wine crowned the board.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p><p>My indian comrades or conductors occasioned much sport after dinner, by -playing what they call the <i>peuca</i>, which Molina says serves them as an -image of war. Fifteen <i>mosotones</i>, young Indians, took hold of each -other by the hands and formed a circle, in the centre of which a boy -about ten years old was placed. An equal number of young men were then -engaged in attempting to take the boy out of the ring, in which the -victory consists. The indians forming the ring at first extended their -arms as wide as they could, and paced gently round. The others rushed -altogether on the ring, and tried to break it, but their opponents -closed and the invaders were forced to desist. They then threw -themselves into several groups of two or three in each, advanced and -attacked at different points, but were again baffled in their efforts, -and after many unsuccessful trials to break the ring, and take the boy, -they were obliged through fatigue to abandon their enterprise. When the -game, which lasted at least three hours, was finished, abundance of -cider was brought, and the effects of drinking it were soon visible. -Wrestling parties commenced, in which great strength and agility were -shown: the first throw decided each contest, and the horns of cider<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> -were freely circulated to cheer the drooping spirits of the youths. The -females and children stood in groups to witness these sports, and -interest and enthusiasm were strongly marked in their countenances.</p> - -<p>After a supper of <i>milcow</i>, roasted potatoes, milk, &c. we retired to -our beds, which were formed of five or six clean white sheep skins, and -some white flannel. We rose at an early hour the next morning; five more -young indians were attached to my escort, and we proceeded on our way to -Arauco.</p> - -<p>There is a roadstead and good anchorage at Tubul, and in any emergency -ships may procure an abundance of bullocks, sheep, and excellent -vegetables, in exchange for knives, axes, buttons, beads, &c. The water -at the mouth of the river is salt, but good fresh water may be easily -obtained a little way up on the north side, where a rivulet joins the -Tubul.</p> - -<p>Having travelled about six miles, we descended to the beach of a very -extensive bay, and saw the island of Santa Maria in the horizon. At the -foot of the promontory which we had crossed was a small stream and three -neat cottages with pretty gardens before them. My guides took me to the -first of these cottages, where we were received by a white<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> woman, the -wife of a sergeant stationed here as at a kind of advanced post. The -sergeant soon made his appearance, and although I had been so very -kindly treated by the good indians, I felt a pleasure at finding myself -once again among people of my own colour, similar to that experienced by -a person who is relieved from an apprehension of danger, by being -satisfied that it does not exist. Some dispute arose respecting the -indians leaving me and returning home; but it was adjusted by the -sergeant sending two soldiers with us, with orders to present me to the -commandant, at Arauco. After breakfasting on roasted jerked beef and -bread, we proceeded towards Arauco, and arrived there at noon.</p> - -<p>The country over which we travelled was every where covered with -vegetation, the valleys or bottoms of the ravines with grass and shrubs, -and their hilly sides with wood. After descending to the beach, several -small ravines opened to the right, containing a considerable number of -neat thatched cottages. Quantities of wild vines climbed from tree to -tree, laden with grapes as yet green; and clusters of apple, pear, and -peach trees adorned the sides of the hills, while the low land from -their bases to the sea side was divided and fenced in with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> branches of -trees—cattle, principally milch cows, feeding in the enclosures.</p> - -<p>On our arrival at Arauco I was immediately taken to the house of the -commandant, who ordered me into his presence, and the soldiers and -indians to return. I was not a little surprised at the extravagant -appearance of this military hero, who undoubtedly considered himself, in -his present situation, equal to Alexander or Napoleon, and but for his -figure I should have conceived him to be a second Falstaff. He stood -about five feet six inches high, was remarkably slender, and had a -swarthy complexion, large Roman nose, small black eyes, projecting chin, -and toothless mouth. His hair was combed back from his forehead, -abundantly powdered, and tied in a cue <i>a la</i> Frederick. He wore an old -tarnished gold laced uniform of faded blue, with deepened red lappels, -collar and cuffs, his waistcoat and breeches being of the latter colour; -bluish stockings, brown shoes for lack of blacking, and large square -brass buckles. A real Toledo was fastened to his side with a broad black -leather belt and a brass buckle in front: an equilateral triangular hat -covered his head. Such was the visible part of this soldier. His red -cloak was on a chair near him, while his worship stood, bolt upright, in -his vast importance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> <i>personale</i>! Never did chivalrous knight listen -with more gravity of countenance, measured demeanour or composed -posture, to the cravings of a woe-begotten squire, than did my old -commandant to my ill-digested narrative. But what a contrast presented -itself in his goodly lady, the <i>comandanta</i>, whom I could compare to -nothing better than a large lanthorn! She stood about four feet six -inches high, and as nearly as I could conceive measured the same round -the waist, which was encompassed by an enormous hoop, at least four feet -in diameter, having a petticoat of scarlet flannel, sewed into small -folds, the bottom of which was trimmed about a foot deep with something -yellow. She wore a green bodice, and the sleeves of her undermost -garment just covered her shoulders, and were edged with green ribbon and -white fringe. Her hair was all combed back from her forehead, and tied -behind with a broad black ribbon. On the top of her head appeared a -bunch of natural flowers. It might with propriety be said of this goodly -dame, that it would be much easier to pass over than to go round her. -There were also present the curate of the parish, two Franciscan friars, -and some of the inhabitants, one of whom, Don Nicolas del Rio, -compassionating the fate of a boy, (for I was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> then only seventeen) -asked the commandant to allow me to be his guest. This request being -granted, the chief put on his red cloak, walked with us to the house of -Don Nicolas, and, not forgetting one iota of etiquette, presented me to -the family, composed of the wife of Don Nicolas and three daughters; -their only son being with an uncle, who was governor of Angeles. During -the time I remained at Arauco I was treated in every respect as one of -the family by these kind and hospitable people. Visiting parties to -their gardens, orchards, and vineyards, followed each other daily, and -all possible care was taken to render me happy—and not in vain, for I -was happy.</p> - -<p>Arauco is situated at the foot of a rocky hill, accessible only by a -winding path from the inside of the walls by which the town is -surrounded. On the top of the hill were four brass guns of eighteen -pounds calibre, with a breast-work of stone, a large house for the -soldiers, forming their barracks or guard-house, and a small watch -tower. The town is a square of about six hundred yards, and is -surrounded by a wall of eighteen feet high on three of the sides, the -hill forming the fourth; two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> small breast-works are raised at the -corners. An arched gateway stands in the centre of the north side, with -a massy wooden door, which is closed every night at eight o'clock, and -opened at six in the morning. From the gateway is a street to the -square, or market-place, where the church is erected. There is also a -convent of Franciscan friars, which was formerly a Jesuits' college. The -garrison consisted of thirty privates with the respective subalterns and -officers. The whole population amounts to about four hundred souls.</p> - -<p>The town is well supplied by a spring in the rock with most excellent -water, which falls into a large stone basin, and thence runs through the -square, the principal street, and out at the gateway. Fruit, fish, -poultry, and cider called <i>chicha</i>, are brought in daily by the indian -women, and sold or bartered principally for salt, which is the article -most in demand, there being none but what is imported. The greater part -used for culinary purposes is from Peru, but a coarser kind is obtained -from the coast of Chile, near to Valparaiso. The general salutation of -the indians is <i>marry, marry</i>; and I was told, that when a Cacique or -any other chief sends to a Spaniard his <i>marry, marry</i>, it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> a sure -sign that he is at peace with the Spaniards, though other tribes may be -at war with them.</p> - -<p>I had several opportunities at Arauco of seeing the indians employed in -weaving the fine <i>ponchos</i>, some of which, I learnt, were worth from a -hundred to a hundred and fifty dollars. The wool is first washed and -picked or combed, for they have no idea of carding. It is then spun with -the spindle, as already described, and afterwards dyed the necessary -colours, such as blue, green, yellow, red, &c., and if one be wanted -which they have not the materials to produce, they purchase a piece of -Manchester flannel of the colour required, pick it to pieces, reduce it -to wool, and spin it over again, the yarn being required to be much -finer than that of the flannel, and always twisted of two or more -threads. The <i>poncho</i> is woven in stripes of one, two, or three inches -broad, which are subsequently sewed together. Sometimes, and for the -finest <i>ponchos</i>, no loom whatever is used. The coloured threads or -yarns are rolled on a round piece of wood; the weaver ties the other -ends of them to her girdle, and lifts and depresses the threads with her -fingers, passing the woof rolled on a cane instead of a shuttle, and -beating it with the <i>macana</i>. This may undoubtedly be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> considered the -lowest pitch of weaving, but the patterns on the stripes are very pretty -and ingenious, and the repetitions of the devices are extremely exact.</p> - -<p>After a few days' rest, it was proposed by Don Nicolas that I should -accompany his daughters on an excursion to some of the neighbouring -towns and villages: a proposal highly gratifying to myself, and -apparently not less so to my new acquaintance. A permission or passport -was procured for me from the commandant, and I was ordered to present it -at every military post we might arrive at. Whether there were any -necessity for this document I do not know; but I think it was provided -to give me an idea of the authority of the military chief; for I was -never asked for it, and when I presented it at any post it was never -read; but a curl of the upper lip showed the contempt with which it was -viewed by the subalterns of this great man!</p> - -<p>Our cavalcade, on as delightful a morning as ever broke on joyous -travellers, made a very gay appearance. The three daughters of Don -Nicolas were mounted on good horses, with square side-saddles, the upper -part of which had rather the shape of small chairs, having backs and -arms covered with velvet, fastened with a profusion of brass-headed -nails.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> A board about ten inches long and four broad, covered and nailed -to match, was suspended on the far side of each horse; so that the rider -sat with her left hand to the horse's head, contrary to the custom in -England. The bridles, cruppers and appendages were of exquisite platted -work, ornamented with a number of silver rings, buckles and small -plates. I rode a horse belonging to my good host, with saddle and -trappings decorated in the same manner. The saddle was raised about four -inches before and behind, and some sheep skins were put on the seat, -covered with a red rug of very long wool. Four sumpter mules were laden -with bedding and provender, two <i>mosotones</i>, young indians, were -appointed to attend to them, and two females to wait on their young -mistresses. We mounted, and at the gate were joined by the commandant's -two daughters, who had two soldiers for their guard. Never did I feel -more delighted than when, having passed the gateway and advanced a few -yards, I turned round to view this novel scene, to which, in my mind, a -Canterbury pilgrimage was far inferior. Five young ladies in their rigid -costume; their small but beautifully wrought <i>ponchos</i>; their black hats -and feathers; their hoops, spreading out their fancifully coloured -coats, ornamented with ribbons, fringes, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> spangles; the gay -trappings of their horses; the two soldiers in uniform; the indians; the -servant girls, and the sumpter mules, which closed the procession; the -merry countenances of all; the parents, relations and friends, waving -their hats and handkerchiefs from the walls of the town; the sound of -the church and convent bells, summoning the inhabitants to mass; the -distant view of the sea on one side, and that of the enchanting plain -and mountain scenery on the other—reminded me of fairy regions, and at -times caused me almost to doubt the reality of what I beheld. It was -predetermined that we should breakfast at a farm-house about two leagues -from Arauco. Thither we rode, leaving the indians to follow with their -charge.</p> - -<p>Our arrival was anticipated, and a splendid breakfast had been prepared: -roasted lamb, fowls, fried eggs and fish smoaked on the table; whilst -chocolate and toasted bread, excellent butter and cheese finished the -repast. We honoured our host by eating heartily, and waited the arrival -of the indians: they were ordered to follow us to the mills. We shortly -reached the bank of the river Carampangue, and after riding about twelve -miles came to the mills called <i>de Carampangue</i>. The river is in some -places from eighty to a hundred yards<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> wide, and in others not above -twenty; running slowly towards the sea, into which it empties itself -about four miles from Arauco. Its origin is said to be in the -Cordilleras. Where the mills are situated the river is twenty-two yards -wide, with a considerable fall, and water is drawn from it for their -service by channels. These mills are three in number, with vertical -water-wheels and one pair of stones to each mill. I was informed that -the stones are brought from a considerable distance, and that they cost -about one hundred and fifty dollars the pair. They are black, with small -white stains, resembling in size and shape the wings of flies, and hence -are called <i>ala de mosca</i>. When by any accident they are broken, the -only remedy is to procure new ones, the people being ignorant of any -cement with which to unite the pieces; and probably the expense of iron -work would amount to more than that of new stones; nay, I question -whether they have a blacksmith in this part of the country who could -forge hoops to brace them. The only precaution taken to prevent such -accidents is the passing a number of thongs of raw hide, while fresh, -round the stones, and when dry they are not perhaps very inferior to -iron hoops. The wood-work is as rude, the miller being the carpenter, -blacksmith,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> mason, &c. The flour is not bolted, but sifted by hand. -This however is no part of the business or trade of the miller, who is -only required to grind the corn; for the meal is carried home to its -owner, and separated from the bran with large hair sieves made by the -indians.</p> - -<p>We dined at one of the houses, partly on the fare presented to us, and -partly on our own, brought by the sumpter mules. The afternoon was spent -in rambling about the neighbouring country and picking myrtle berries, -which are delicious, and called by the people <i>mutillas</i>. They are about -the size of a large pea, of a deep red colour and of a peculiarly sweet -and aromatic flavour. They are sometimes prepared by crushing them in -water and allowing them to ferment for a few days, which produces a -pleasant beverage called <i>chicha de mutilla</i>. We found abundance of wild -grapes, (which though neither large nor sweet were very palatable) some -few plums, and plenty of apples, pears and peaches. On our return to the -miller's house we were presented with <i>mate</i>, which is a substitute for -tea, and is used more or less in every part of South America, but since -the present revolution it has become less prevalent, partly because the -custom of drinking tea <i>a la Inglesa</i> is more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> fashionable, and partly -because a regular supply of the herb cannot be procured from Paraguay, -where it grows, and from whence it derives its name. The <i>mate</i> is -prepared by putting into a silver or gold cup about a teaspoonful of the -herb of Paraguay, to which are added a bit of sugar, sometimes laid on -the fire until the outside be a little burnt, a few drops of lemon -juice, a piece of lemon peel and of cinnamon, or a clove. Boiling water -is poured in till the cup is full, and a silver tube, about the -thickness of the stalk of a tobacco pipe, six inches long and perforated -at the lower end with small holes, is introduced. Through this the -<i>mate</i> is sucked, with the risk of scalding the mouth. A cup supported -on a salver, most curiously chased, or filigreed, is commonly used: -however a calabash, with a fillet of silver round the top, was used on -this occasion. One tube serves the whole party, and the female who -presides will not unfrequently give a hearty suck when the cup is -returned to her, and take another after replenishing it, before it is -handed to the company. A great deal of etiquette is observed with the -<i>mate</i>. It is first offered to the person who is the greatest stranger, -or most welcome visitor, a priest, if there happen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> to be one present, -which is generally the case. Nothing but the severe indisposition of -Friar Vicente at Arauco freed us from his presence: an event which was -not regretted by the party until dancing was proposed in the evening, -when his ghostly fathership was missed, as no one could play on the -guitar so well as he: however one of the soldiers offered his services; -the instrument was produced and tuned, the dance named, and the -sparkling eyes of the whole company, which had greatly increased since -our arrival, bespoke a wish to "trip it on the light fantastic toe;" but -to my astonishment, a young man and woman stepped into the middle of the -room, and began to jig to the sounds of the guitar, sounds not to be -equalled except by the filing of a saw, or the boisterous singing of the -performer. This I was told was a <i>bolero</i>. They danced about five -minutes, and were relieved by two others. In this manner the diversion -was kept up until after midnight, with the assistance of cider, <i>chicha -de mansana</i>, <i>chicha de mutilla</i>, bad wine, and some brandy made from -the wild grape of the country. A hot supper closed the scene, and we -retired to the beds prepared for us at the different houses.</p> - -<p>The following morning after breakfast we mounted our horses, and having -crossed the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> river at a ford, pursued our route to Nacimiento, which is -a small village surrounded by a wall with four brass guns. The greater -part of the inhabitants are indians, and apparently very poor. We spent -the night at the house of the curate, but not so agreeably as we passed -the preceding one at the mills.</p> - -<p>On the next day we went on to Santa Juana, another frontier town, -standing on an island formed by the river dividing itself into two -branches for the space of about half a mile and again uniting. This -river is the Bio-bio, and may with propriety be called the northern -boundary of Chile. The towns on the south side of the Bio-bio are under -great risk of being sacked by the indians, and are merely kept as -advanced posts by the Spaniards. We rested one day at Santa Juana, and -returned by a different road to Nacimiento, from thence to the -Carampangue mills, and the day after to Arauco, having spent seven days -in this most agreeable excursion.</p> - -<p>I was exceedingly surprized at being informed that war had been declared -between England and Spain; and in a few days afterwards I received -orders to proceed to Conception. I remained at the house of my friend -Don Nicolas del Rio, until my departure,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> enjoying every day more and -more the kind hospitality of this worthy South American and his -excellent family, whom I left with the most sincere regret, impressed -with the idea that I should never see any of them again. I was, however, -deceived, for after a lapse of seventeen years we met under -circumstances which enabled me to repay a part of their kindness.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Account of Cultivation of Farms, &c. in Araucania....Thrashing, -&c....Produce....Cattle....Locality....Topographical -Divisions....Government (Indian)....Laws and Penalties....Military -System....Arms, Standards, &c....Division of Spoil....Treaty of -Peace....Religion....Marriages....Funerals....Spanish Cities -founded in Araucania....Ideas on New Colonies....Commerce.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The plough used by the Creoles and Spaniards and adopted by the indians -is a piece of crooked wood, generally part of the trunk and one of the -principal branches of a tree. The portion which is intended to move the -soil, for it cannot properly be called ploughing, is about five feet -long and six inches broad. One end is pointed and sometimes charred; at -the other a handle rises about three feet high, forming with the bottom -piece an obtuse angle, greater or less according to the will of the -maker, or the chance of finding a piece of wood suitable for the -purpose. One end of the beam is inserted at the angle and is supported -about the middle of the lower part of the plough by a piece of wood -passing through it into a mortise made in the lower part, where it is -secured, as well as in the beam, by small wedges. The removal of those -in the beam<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> serves to raise or depress it for the purpose of making the -furrow deeper or shallower. The beam is from ten to twelve feet long, -the one end fastened as already mentioned, and the other lashed to the -yoke, which is tied with thongs just behind the horns of the bullock. -Instead of harrows they use a bunch of thorns, generally of the -<i>espino</i>. One would imagine that this rude implement had been found in -the hands of the indians at the time the country was discovered; but -according to Townsend's description of the plough used in some parts of -Spain, it was one of the improvements carried to America by the earliest -settlers. Indeed, rude as it is, it is seen in every part of South -America which I visited, having in some places the addition of a piece -of flat iron, about a foot long and pointed at one end, attached by -thongs to that of the lower part of the plough, and called <i>reja</i>: -probably from the verb <i>rajar</i>, to split or divide.</p> - -<p>When a farmer selects a piece of ground for cultivation he cuts down the -trees, with which he makes a fence by laying them around the field. He -then ploughs or breaks the ground, sows his wheat or barley, and harrows -it in with a bunch of thorns: here the cares of husbandry cease until -harvest. The corn is now cut, tied<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> into sheaves, and carried to the -thrashing floor, where it is trodden out by a drove of mares, which are -driven round at a full gallop, till the straw becomes hard, when it is -turned over, and the trampling repeated two or three times, so as to -break the straw into pieces of two inches long. At this stage it is -supposed that the grain is freed from the ears. The whole is shaken with -large forks, made of wood or forked branches of trees; the chaff and -grain fall to the ground, and are formed into a heap, which is thrown up -into the air with shovels. The wind blows away the chaff, and the grain -remains on the floor. It is now put into sacks made of bullocks' hides, -placed on the backs of mules, and carried to the owner's house; but not -before the tythe or <i>diesmo</i> has been paid, and one bushel, <i>primicia</i>, -to the parson. The straw is occasionally preserved for the horses in the -rainy season; at other times it is burnt or left to rot.</p> - -<p>For a thrashing floor a piece of ground is selected, and having been -swept and cleared, is enclosed with a few poles and canes. It is seldom -used twice, and the size is proportioned to the quantity of corn to be -trodden out.</p> - -<p>Maize, sometimes called indian corn, is cultivated in great quantities -in this as well as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> in every other part of South America. Four varieties -are to be found here, all of which are very productive and much -appreciated. It is sown in lines or rows, two, three, or four plants -standing together, at the distance of half a yard from the other -clusters. Each stem produces from two to four cobs, and some of them are -twelve inches long. The indians prepare the maize for winter, whilst in -the green state, by boiling the cobs, from the cores of which are taken -the grain, which is dried in the sun and kept for use. It is called -<i>chuchoca</i>, and when mixed with some of their hashes or stews is very -palatable. Another preparation is made by cutting the corn from the core -of the green cobs, and bruising it between two stones until it assumes -the consistency of paste, to which sugar, butter and spices, or only -salt is added. It is then divided into small portions, which are -enclosed separately within the inner leaf of the cob or ear and boiled. -These cakes are called <i>umitas</i>. The dry boiled maize, <i>mote</i>, and the -toasted, <i>cancha</i>, are used by the indians instead of bread. One kind of -maize, <i>curugua</i>, is much softer when roasted, and furnishes a flour -lighter, whiter, and in greater quantity than any other kind. This meal -mixed with water and a little sugar is esteemed by all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> classes of -people. If the water be hot the beverage is called <i>cherchan</i>, if cold -<i>ulpo</i>.</p> - -<p>M. Bomare considers the maize as indigenous to Asia alone, and C. -Durante to Turkey; but Solis, Zandoval, Herrera and others prove that it -was found at the discovery of the New World in the West Indies, Mexico, -Peru and Chile. Indeed I have opened many of the graves, <i>huacas</i>, of -the indians, and observed maize in them, which was beyond all doubt -buried before the conquest or discovery of this country.</p> - -<p>There are two kinds of <i>quinua</i>, a species of chenopodium. The seed of -the one is reddish, bitter, and used only as a medicine. The other is -white, and is frequently brought to table. When boiled it uncurls and -has the appearance of fine vermicelli. It is sometimes boiled in soup, -and is also made into a kind of pudding, seasoned with onions, garlic, -pepper, &c.</p> - -<p>Of the bean, <i>phaseolus</i>, they have several kinds, which are grown in -abundance, constituting both in a green and dried state a great part of -the support of the lower classes of Creoles and indians. The bean is -indigenous, and was cultivated before the arrival of the Spaniards.</p> - -<p>Seven or eight varieties of potatoe of an excellent quality are raised, -and in some shape<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> or other introduced to every table and almost at -every meal. Indeed Chile is considered by many naturalists to be the -native soil of this vegetable. The small potatoes are often preserved by -boiling them and drying them in the sun, or among the Cordilleras -covering them with ice, until they assume a horny appearance. When used -they are broken into small pieces, soaked in water, and added to many of -their stews. A species called <i>pogny</i> is very bitter, and is considered, -with probability, to be poisonous. For use it is soaked in water till -the bitterness is removed, then dried, and sometimes reduced to powder, -called <i>chuno</i>. For food it is prepared like arrow root, which it -resembles.</p> - -<p>They have the white and the yellow flowered gourd. Of the former, -generally called calabashes, there are about twenty varieties, but only -two of them are sweet and eatable. However, the bitter kinds are -remarkably serviceable, for when dried and cleaned their shells are -substitutes for dishes, bowls, platters, bottles, tubs, or trays. The -largest serve the purposes of barrels for water, cider, and other -liquids, as well as baskets for fruit, butter and eggs. They are -sometimes very curiously cut and stained,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> and for certain uses bound or -tipped with silver. The yellow flowered, known to us by the name of -pumpkin or pompion, and here called <i>zapallo</i>, are excellent food, -whether cooked with meat as a vegetable, or made into custard with sugar -and other ingredients. That the gourd is a native of South America seems -to be supported by several striking circumstances. The seeds and shells -are found in the graves, or <i>huacas</i>; the plant was universally met with -among the different tribes of indians at the time of their discovery; -Almagro states that on his passage down the Maranon some of the indians -had calabashes to drink with; and lastly, those who bring their produce -from the woods of Maynas to Cusco, Quito and other places, always use -gourd shells.</p> - -<p>The pimento, guinea, or cayenne pepper, <i>capsicum</i>, is much cultivated -and valued by the natives, who season their food with it. Although at -first very pungent and disagreeable, strangers gradually habituate -themselves to, and become fond of it. There are several varieties.</p> - -<p>I have been thus particular in mentioning these indigenous plants, -because from the slender or exaggerated accounts given to the public no -perfect idea can be formed of the native productions of this country.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p><p>European vegetables prosper extremely well in Araucania, and abundance -of them are to be seen in every garden.</p> - -<p>In some parts of the Araucanian territory there is a great stock of -horned cattle, which is well grown, and often tolerably fat. The beef is -savoury, owing perhaps to the prevalence of aromatic herbs, more -particularly a species of venus' comb, called by the indians <i>loiqui -lahuen</i>, by the Spaniards <i>alfilerilla</i>; and trefoil, <i>gualputa</i>. There -is no scarcity of sheep; but pigs are not much bred, as the indians are -averse from eating their flesh: a prejudice which has supplied some -fanatical priests with a reason for considering the natives of Jewish -extraction! Turkeys, barn door fowls and ducks thrive extremely well. I -never saw any geese here, and though they may be found in other parts, -the indians have a dislike to them for food.</p> - -<p>The tract of country which may be properly called Araucania extends from -the river Bio-bio in 36° 44´ south latitude, to Valdivia in 39° 38´, the -province of Conception bounding it on the north, and the <i>Llanos</i> or -plains of Valdivia on the south. The Cordillera forms the eastern limit, -and the Pacific the western. It is divided into four governments, or -tetrachates, called <i>uthal mapus</i>:—1. <i>lauguen mapu</i>, the maritime -country;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> 2, <i>lelbun mapu</i>, the plain country; 3, <i>mapire mapu</i>, the -foot of the Cordilleras; 4, <i>pire mapu</i>, the Andes. Each tetrachate is -again divided into nine <i>allaregues</i>, or provinces, and these are -subdivided into nine <i>regues</i>, or districts. This division existed prior -to the arrival of the Spaniards, but the date of its establishment is -unknown. It evinces, however, more wisdom than civilized countries are -willing to allow to what they term barbarous tribes, who no doubt return -this compliment, by adjudging those nations to be barbarous who observe -any rules or laws different from their own.</p> - -<p>Such is the common characteristic of civilization and uncivilization! -But can that country be called barbarous which, although its code of -laws is not written on vellum, or bound in calf, has an established mode -of government for the administration of justice and the protection of -property? The Araucanians have ever been a warlike race, and yet their -government is aristocratical. They are prompt to resent an insult, but -they possess virtues of a private and public nature, which deny to -civilization its exclusive pretensions to patriotism, friendship or -hospitality.</p> - -<p>The four <i>uthalmapus</i> are governed by four <i>Toquis</i>, or tetrachs, who -are independent of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> each other in the civil administration of their -respective territories, but confederated for the general good of the -whole country. The Apo-ulmenes are subordinate governors of provinces, -under the respective Toquis; and the Ulmenes, the prefects of the -counties, or districts, are dependent on the Apo-ulmenes. All these -dignities are hereditary in the male line, attending to primogeniture, -but when there is no lineal male descendant of the person reigning, the -vassals enjoy the privilege of electing a new governor from among -themselves, and on reporting their choice to the Toquis, they -immediately order it to be acknowledged.</p> - -<p>The badge of a Toqui is a battle-axe; that of an Apo-ulmen a staff, or -baton, with a ball of silver on the top, and a ring of the same metal -round the middle: the Ulmen has the baton without the ring.</p> - -<p>To the hypothetical historian this aristocracy in the most southern -limits of the new, so similar to the military aristocracy of the dukes, -the counts, and the marquises in the northern parts of the old world, -would prove that the latter was peopled by migrations from the former, -at a time beyond the reach of record, or even of oral tradition.</p> - -<p>The Araucanian code of laws is traditionary,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> (composed of primordial -usages, or tacit conventions, formed in such general councils as are yet -assembled by the Toquis in cases of emergency) and is called -<i>aucacoyog</i>. Molina, Ulloa, and other writers are silent upon the -curious fact of the possession by this people of the <i>quipus</i>, or -Peruvian mode of knotting coloured threads as a substitute for writing -or hieroglyphics. That they do possess this art at the present day, the -following narrative will testify. In 1792 a revolution took place near -Valdivia, and on the trial of several of the accomplices, Marican,<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> -one of them, declared, "that the signal sent by Lepitrarn was a piece of -wood, about a quarter of a yard long, and considerably thick; that it -had been split, and was found to contain the finger of a Spaniard; that -it was wrapped round with thread, having a fringe at one end made of -red, blue, black, and white worsted; that on the black were tied by -Lepitrarn, four knots, to intimate that it was the fourth day after the -full moon when the bearer left Paquipulli; that on the white were ten -knots, indicating that ten days after that date the revolution would -take place; that on the red was to be tied by the person who received it -a knot, if he assisted in the revolt, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> if he refused, he was to tie -a knot on the blue and red joined together: so that according to the -route determined on by Lepitrarn he would be able to discover on the -return of his <i>chasqui</i>, or herald, how many of his friends would join -him; and if any dissented, he would know who it was, by the place where -the knot uniting the two threads was tied."</p> - -<p>Thus it is very probable, that the Toquis of Araucania preserve their -records by means of the quipus, instead of relying on oral tradition. -The principal crimes of this people are murder, adultery, robbery and -witchcraft. If a murderer compound the matter with the nearest relations -of the deceased, he escapes punishment. Such is also the case in robbery -and adultery; the composition in robbery being restitution of property -stolen; in adultery, maintenance of the woman. Witchcraft is always -punished with death. In murder, however, retaliation is generally called -in to decide; and in most instances the injured relatives collect their -friends, enter and despoil the territory or premises of the aggressor. -These <i>malocas</i>, as they are stiled, are sources of great confusion.</p> - -<p>When a general council has resolved to make war, one of the Toquis is -usually appointed by his brethren to take the command<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> in chief; but -should the four agree to nominate any other individual in the state, he -becomes duly elected, and assumes the Toquis' badge, a war axe—the four -Toquis laying down their insignia and authority during the war. The -person thus elected is sole dictator. He appoints his subalterns, and is -implicitly obeyed by all ranks. War being determined on, and the Toqui -chosen, he immediately sends his messengers, <i>werquenis</i>, with the -signal; and as all Araucanians are born soldiers of the state, the army -is soon collected at the rendezvous assigned.</p> - -<p>The arms of the infantry are muskets, which from the Spaniards they have -learned to use with great dexterity, though bows and arrows, slings, -clubs and pikes are their proper weapons. They have also their cavalry, -in imitation of their conquerors; and, possessed of a good and ample -breed of horses, are very excellent riders. The arms of this branch of -their force are swords and lances, their system being to come to close -quarters with the enemy as soon as possible. Their standards have a fine -pointed star in the centre, generally white, in a field of bluish green, -which is their favourite colour. Military uniforms are not used, but a -species of leather dress is worn under their ordinary <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>clothing, to -defend the body from arrow, pike and sword wounds. This is doubtless of -modern invention, for before the arrival of the Spaniards they had no -animal of sufficient size to afford hides large or thick enough for such -a purpose.</p> - -<p>The whole of the provisions of an Araucanian army consist of the -<i>machica</i>, or meal of parched grain. Each individual provides himself -with a small bag full, which diluted with water furnishes him with -sustenance until he can quarter on the enemy, an object of the last -importance to the leaders. In the camp or resting-place every soldier -lights a fire: a practice which during the first wars with the Spaniards -(so beautifully recorded by Ercilla in his Araucania) often deceived the -enemy as to their numbers. What Robertson says in praise of the Chileans -must be wholly ascribed to the Araucanians, in order to avoid the -confusion which would be created were we to consider the present -inhabitants of Chile as the persons spoken of by that author.</p> - -<p>After a general action or a skirmish the booty taken is equally divided -among the individuals who were at the capture. They judiciously consider -that rank and honours repay the leaders, and that a larger share of the -booty would probably induce them to be more <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>attentive to spoil than to -conquest, to personal good than to national welfare: a policy worthy of -the imitation of all nations.</p> - -<p>Abbé Molina, in his History of Chile, speaks of sacrifices after an -action; but although I inquired, when at Arauco in the year 1803, and -more particularly in the province of Valdivia in 1820, I never could -obtain any account from the natives which gave the least countenance to -this assertion. It is possible, however, that during the first wars with -the Spaniards the barbarous proceedings of the latter to the captured -Indians gave rise to a retaliation which was confounded with sacrifice. -Among the religious ceremonies of Araucania human sacrifices are -decidedly not included.</p> - -<p>The independent spirit of the Araucanians prevents their ever sueing for -peace. The first overtures have always been made by the Spaniards, who -are the only nation with which they have contended; for although the -Inca Yupanqui invaded Chile about the year 1430, the northern limit of -his acquired territory was, according to Garcilaso, the river Maule. -When the proposals are accepted by the indians, or rather by the -commanding Toqui, he lays down his insignia, which the four Toquis of -the uthalmapus resume, and accompanied by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> Apo-ulmenes and principal -officers of the army, they adjourn to some appointed plain, generally -between the rivers Bio-bio and Duqueco. The two contending chiefs, with -their respective interpreters, meet, and the Araucanian claiming the -precedence, speaks first, and is answered by the Spaniard. If the terms -offered to the indians meet their approbation, the baton of the Spanish -chief, and the war axe of the Toqui are tied together, crowned with a -bunch of <i>canelo</i>, and placed on the spot where the conference was held. -The articles of the treaty are written, but agreed to rather than -signed, and they generally state the quantity and quality of the -presents which the indians are to receive. The negociation ends in -eating, drinking, riot and confusion. Raynal, treating of the -Araucanians, says—"As these Araucanians are not embarrassed by making -war, they are not apprehensive of its duration, and hold it as a -principle never to sue for peace, the first overtures for which are -always made by the Spaniards."</p> - -<p>Their religion is very simple. They have a Supreme Being, whom they call -<i>Pillian</i>, and who is at the head of a universal government, which is -the prototype of their own. Pillian is the great invisible Toqui, and -has his Apo-ulmenes and his Ulmenes, to whom he assigns different<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> -situations in the government, and entrusts the administration of certain -affairs in this world. <i>Meulen</i>, the genius of good and the friend of -mankind, and Wencuba that of evil, and the enemy of man, are the two -principal subordinate deities. Epunamun is their genius of war; but it -appears that he is seldom invoked as a protector, being only the object -by which they swear to fight, destroy, &c. These three may be considered -their Apo-ulmenes; and their Ulmenes are a race of genii, who assist the -good Meulen in favour of mortals, and defend their interests against the -enormous power of the wicked Wencuba. The Araucanians have no places of -worship, no idols, no religious rites. They believe that as their God -and his genii need not the worship of men, they do not require it; that -they are not desirous of imposing a tribute or exacting a service, -except for the good or interest of their servants; and that they thus -resemble the Toquis and Ulmenes, who can call upon them to fight for -their country and their liberties, but for no personal offices. They, -nevertheless, invoke the aid of the good Meulen, and attribute all their -evils to the influence of the wicked Wencuba.</p> - -<p>The Spanish government has taken great pains to establish the Christian -religion among<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> the different tribes of indians in South America, and -for the education of missionaries for the conversion of the Araucanians -a convent of Franciscan friars, called de propaganda fide, is -established at Chillan. These individuals, however, are chiefly natives -of Spain, and being ordained presbyters can easily obtain a mission; and -as pecuniary emoluments are attached to the employment, the order has -always endeavoured to preclude Americans. There are also minor convents -at Arauco, Los Angeles and Valdivia. As the missionaries only require -the young indians to learn a few prayers, attend mass on particular -days, and confess themselves once a year, they make some proselytes; but -in the year 1820, when the Spanish government was overthrown at -Valdivia, the indians immediately accused their missionaries of being -enemies to the newly-established system, and requested their removal. -Another proof of dislike to the priests, if not to the religion, is, -that they are generally massacred when any revolution takes place among -the indians. Such was the case in 1792 at Rio-bueno.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> According to the -confessions of those who were taken and tried upon that occasion,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> their -plan was to burn all the missions, and murder the missionaries.</p> - -<p>Witchcraft and divination are firmly believed by the Araucanians. Any -accident that occurs to an individual or family is attributed to the -agency of the former, and for a due discovery they consult the latter. -Particular attention is paid to omens, such as the flight of birds, and -dreams. These are either favourable or otherwise according to the bird -seen, or the direction of its flight, &c. An Araucanian who fears not -his foe on the field of battle, nor the more dreadful hand of the -executioner, will tremble at the sight of an owl. They have also their -ghosts and hobgoblins: but is there any nation on earth so far removed -from credulity as not to keep the Araucanians in countenance in these -matters?</p> - -<p>The belief of a future state and the immortality of the soul is -universal among the indians of South America. The Araucanians agree with -the rest in expecting an eternal residence in a beautiful country, to -which all will be transferred. Pillian is too good to inflict any -punishment after death for crimes committed during life. They believe -that the soul will enjoy the same privileges in a separate state which -it <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>possessed whilst united to the body. Thus the husband will have his -wives, but without any spiritual progeny, for the new country must be -peopled with the spirits of the dead. Like the ancients, they have their -ferryman, or rather ferrywoman, to transport them thither. She is called -<i>Tempulagy</i>, being an old woman who takes possession of the soul after -the relations have mourned over the corpse, and who conveys it over the -seas to the westward, where the land of expectation is supposed to -exist.</p> - -<p>When an indian becomes enamoured of a female, or wishes to marry her, he -informs her father of his intention, and if his proposals be accepted, -the father at a time agreed upon sends his daughter on a pretended -errand. The bridegroom with some of his friends is secreted on the route -she has to take: he seizes the girl, and carries her to his house, where -not unfrequently her father and his friends have already arrived to -partake of the nuptial feast, and receive the stipulated presents, which -consist of horses, horned cattle, maize, ponchos, &c. The ceremony is -concluded by the whole party drinking to excess.</p> - -<p>On the death of an individual the relations and friends are summoned to -attend, and weep or mourn. The deceased is laid on a table, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> dressed -in the best apparel he possessed when alive. The females walk round the -body, chaunting in a doleful strain a recapitulation of the events of -the life of the person whose death they lament; whilst the men employ -themselves in drinking. On the second or third day the corpse is carried -to the family burying place, which is at some distance from the house, -and generally on an eminence. It is laid in a grave prepared for the -purpose. If the deceased be a man, he is buried with his arms, and -sometimes a horse, killed for the occasion: if a woman, she is interred -with a quantity of household utensils. In both cases a portion of food -is placed in the grave to support them and the <i>Tempulagy</i>, or -ferrywoman, on their journey to the other country. Earth is thrown on -the body, and afterwards stones are piled over it in a pyramidal form. A -quantity of cider or other fermented liquor is poured upon the tomb; -when, these solemn rites being terminated, the company return to the -house of the deceased to feast and drink. Black is here as in Europe the -colour used for mourning.</p> - -<p>The indians never believe that death is owing to natural causes, but -that it is the effect of sorcery and witchcraft. Thus on the death of an -individual, one or more diviners are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> consulted, who generally name the -enchanter, and are so implicitly believed, that the unfortunate object -of their caprice or malice is certain to fall a sacrifice. The number of -victims is far from being inconsiderable.</p> - -<p>In my description of Araucania I have in some measure followed Molina's -ingenious work; but I have not ventured to state any thing which I did -not see myself, or learn from the indians, or persons residing among -them.</p> - -<p>The Spaniards founded seven cities in Araucania. The Imperial, built in -1552 by Don Pedro Valdivia, generally called the conqueror of Chile, is -situated at the confluence of the two rivers Cantin and Las Damas, 12 -miles from the sea, in an extremely rich and beautiful country, enjoying -the best soil and climate in Araucania. In 1564 Pius IV. made it a -bishop's see, which was removed to Conception in 1620. In 1599 it was -taken and destroyed by the indians, and has never been rebuilt. The site -at present belongs to the <i>lauguen mapu</i>, or tetrachate of the coast.</p> - -<p>Villarica was also founded by Valdivia in 1552, on the shore of the -great lake Sauquen, 65 miles from the sea. It was destroyed by the Toqui -Palliamachu, and its site forms part<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> of the tetrachate of the <i>mapire -mapu</i>. Report speaks of rich gold mines in the environs of the ground -where Villarica stood and from which it took its name. The climate is -cold, owing to the vicinity of the Cordillera.</p> - -<p>Valdivia bears the name of its founder. Of this city I shall have -occasion hereafter to give a circumstantial account.</p> - -<p>Angol, or La Frontera, was established by Pedro Valdivia in the year -1553. It was razed by the Indians in 1601, and has since remained in -ruins. It is now in reality the frontier, though Valdivia little -surmised that it would be so when he founded it. The river Bio-bio -bounded it on the south side, and a small rapid stream on the north. The -soil and climate are excellent, and the situation was well chosen for a -city.</p> - -<p>Cañete was founded in 1557 by Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendosa, and -destroyed during the first long-contested war with the Araucanians, by -the Toqui Antiguenu. It was built on the site where Valdivia was -defeated and slain, and now forms part of the <i>lelbum mapu</i> tetrachate.</p> - -<p>Osorno is the most southern city in South America, being in 40° 20´, at -the distance of 24 miles from the sea, and 212 south of Conception. It -was founded in 1559 by Don Garcia<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> Hurtado de Mendosa, and destroyed by -the indians in 1599. It was again founded on the old site, on the banks -of Rio-bueno, by Don Ambrose Higgins, who was afterwards president and -captain general of Chile, and promoted to the vice-royalty of Peru. -Charles IV. conferred on Higgins the title of Marquis of Osorno, as a -reward for his services in Araucania. The first supreme director of the -Chilean republic, Don Bernardo O'Higgins, was the natural son of Don -Ambrose.</p> - -<p>Conception is the seventh city founded by the Spaniards, but as it is -not included in the Araucanian territory I shall defer any description -of it for the present.</p> - -<p>Cesares is a place about which much has been said and written. I have in -my possession original mss. relating to it, a translation of which will -be published.</p> - -<p>In all the treaties between the Spaniards and the indians one of the -principal articles has been, that the latter were to oppose with force -of arms the establishment of any foreign colony in their territory. This -stipulation they obeyed in 1638, at the island of Mocha, where they -murdered the remains of a crew of Dutchmen, who went to take possession -of that island after their ship had been wrecked by bad<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> weather; and -also when the Dutch Admiral Henry Brun attempted in 1643 to form a -settlement at Valdivia, and met with the same fate: a fate, however, -which might have been occasioned by the natural hatred entertained at -that period by the natives against all foreigners who attempted to -obtain possession of any part of their country. This jealousy and hatred -of Europeans has always been promoted by the Spaniards, whom the indians -stile <i>chiape</i>, vile soldier; but all other foreigners they call <i>moro -winca</i>: winca signifying an assassin, and moro a moor. These epithets -proceed from the same source; for the Spaniards are in the habit of -calling all who are not of their own religion either jews or moors, thus -wishing to impress upon the minds of the indians that all foreigners are -worse than themselves! Notwithstanding the late wars, caused by the -revolution of the colonies, have tended very materially to civilize the -Araucanians, the greater part of them joined the Spaniards against the -creoles, or patriot forces; but the ejection of the last remains of the -Spanish soldiers from Araucania in 1822 has induced the indians to -despise them for what they call their cowardice. The new government of -Chile have not availed themselves of this favourable opportunity to -conciliate the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>indians, by soliciting their friendship, or, after the -manner of the Spaniards, acquiring it at the price of presents. Thus the -Araucanians, having become accustomed to some species of luxuries, find -themselves deprived of them by the fall of the Spanish system in Chile, -and the nonconformity of the new institutions to the old practices; and -thus a chasm has been formed that might be filled by a colony from some -other nation, which by attention and courtesy to the indians might -conciliate their good will and obtain from them whatever was solicited. -Kindness makes an indelible impression upon the minds of most -uncivilized people, while ill-treatment exasperates and drives them to -revengeful extremities.</p> - -<p>The existence of gold mines in Araucania is undoubted, although they are -not regularly wrought. I have seen fine specimens of ore, some of which -were procured from the indians, and others found by accident in the -ravines.</p> - -<p>The soil and climate are very good, and in some parts both are excellent -for grain, pasturage and European fruits. In trade little could be done -at present; but should the indians become acquainted with the use of -those commodities which produce real comforts to society, I have no -doubt that white and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> greenish blue flannels, salt, sugar, tobacco, -bridle-bits, knives, axes, hatchets, nails, buttons, glass beads and -other trinkets would be exchanged for hides, ponchos, and some gold. The -ponchos, particularly those of good quality called <i>balandranes</i>, would -find a ready market in Peru or Chile.</p> - -<p>This interesting part of South America is less known than any other -accessible portion. Others are less known, but they are interior -countries, lying between the range of the Andes and Buenos Ayres, -Paraguay, Brazils and Colombia—immense tracts of the earth kept in -reserve for the speculations of coming ages! But Araucania, from its -locality, climate, and productions, appears destined to become one of -the first and fairest portions of the new world; and should the eyes of -philanthropical speculators be directed to its shores, their capitals -would be more secure in the formation of new establishments than in -loans to many of the old.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Original manuscript, in the possession of the author, found -among the archives at Valdivia.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Original <span class="smaller">MS.</span> from the archives at Valdivia.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Valdivia....Port....Fortifications....River....City-foundation....Revolutions....Inhabitants....Garrison....Government....Rents and Resources. -Churches....Exiles....Missions in the Province of Valdivi....War -with the Indians and Possession of Osorno....Extract from a Letter -in the Araucanian Tongue, and Translation.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The following account of the city and province of Valdivia is partly -extracted from mss. in my possession, found in the archives of that city.</p> - -<p>Valdivia, situated in 39° 50´ south latitude, and in longitude 73° 28´, -is one of the best ports on the western shores of South America: it is -also the strongest, both from its natural position and its -fortifications. The mouth of the harbour is narrow, and the San Carlos -battery on the small promontory on the south, with that of Niebla on the -north side, commands the entrance, their balls crossing the passage. -There are likewise on the south side the batteries Amargos, the high and -low Chorocamayo, and at the bottom of the bay the castle Corral, -commanding the anchorage. In the small island of Mansera is a battery -for the protection of the mouth of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> the river leading to the city, -besides an advanced post on the south side at Aguada del Ingles, and -two, La Avansada and El Piojo, on the north. At the taking of Valdivia -by Lord Cochrane in 1820, one hundred and eighteen pieces of cannon, of -eighteen and twenty-four pounds calibre, were found mounted. Some of -them were beautiful brass pieces, particularly two eighteens at Mansera, -which measured eleven feet in length, were handsomely carved and -embossed, and bore the date of 1547. His lordship sent them to -Valparaiso, where I had the mortification to see them broken up and -converted into grape shot, by the orders of Governor Crus; who thus -deprived Chile of a noble monument of her naval glory, and Chilean -posterity of the pleasure of viewing, as their property, part of those -engines brought from the old, for the purpose of enslaving the new -world! The anchorage is good, being most completely sheltered, and -capable of holding a great number of ships.</p> - -<p>On the north side of the harbour is the river, which leads to the city. -Its banks are covered with trees, suitable for ship-building and many -other purposes. Among them are the white and red cedar, <i>alerces</i>; the -<i>pellinos</i>, a species of oak, and the <i>luma</i>. The river abounds with -fish, particularly the <i>pege rey</i>, the <i>lisa</i>, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> <i>bagre</i>. At its -mouth are caught <i>robalo</i>, <i>corbina</i>, <i>choros</i>, <i>xaiba</i> and <i>apancoras</i>.</p> - -<p>The city of Valdivia stands on the south side of the river, and is -sixteen miles from the port. On the left, ascending the river, are some -few remains of the Dutch settlements. The natives call them <i>hornos de -los Olandeses</i>; supposing that Henry Brun's vessels anchored here, and -that these ruins are the wrecks of the ovens built by the Dutch for the -purpose of baking their bread. The tradition is quite incredible, for -vessels cannot enter the river, there not being above four feet water in -some places, and the channel being so extremely narrow, that a launch -cannot pass. Indeed at low water the large canoes of the inhabitants -have to wait for the tide.</p> - -<p>The city was built in 1553, and bears the name of its founder. The -indians took it from the Spaniards in 1599, and destroyed it in 1603, -when the inhabitants fled to the port, from whence some of them passed -to Chile. In 1642 the Marquis of Mansera, Viceroy of Peru, sent the -Colonel Don Alonzo de Villanueva as governor, with orders to capture the -city, which he effected by a singular ruse de guerre. Landing to the -southward of Valdivia, he introduced himself alone among the indians, -with whom he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> remained two years, and having gained the confidence and -esteem of some of the Caciques, he solicited them to appoint him their -governor in Valdivia; assuring them that such an election would produce -a reconciliation with the Spaniards, and insure the annual presents. -This request was acceded to; and in 1645 the city was rebuilt and -repeopled. Some of the inhabitants are descendants of noble European -families, but the greater part are those of officers and soldiers who -have been sent at different times to garrison the place; some are -indians, and a few slaves. The population amounted to 953 in 1765, and -in 1820 to 741: a decrease attributable to the emigration to Osorno, and -to many being employed in the armies of the contending parties. This -census does not include the garrison, which in 1765 consisted of 249 -individuals, and in 1820, when taken by Lord Cochrane, of 829, besides a -remainder of 780 of the royal army.</p> - -<p>Under the Spanish regime the government was administered by a military -officer, dependent on the President and Captain-general of Chile; but in -1813 the inhabitants declared themselves independent of all Spanish -authority. They however restored the old government in the year -following, and submitted to it until 1820,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> when Valdivia was -incorporated with the Republic of Chile. For the support of Valdivia a -<i>situado</i> was annually sent from the royal treasuries of Lima and -Santiago. In the year 1807 this remittance amounted to 159,439 dollars, -and according to the original statement was distributed as follows:—</p> - -<table summary="royal treasuries"> - <tr> - <td class="left">Staff expenses</td> - <td>10210</td> - <td class="right">Carried up</td> - <td>112404</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Ecclesiastical state</td> - <td>10530</td> - <td class="left"> Supernumeraries</td> - <td>3365</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Military expenses</td> - <td>89846</td> - <td class="left"> Building and repairs of for-}</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Workmen</td> - <td>1512</td> - <td class="left"> tifications, hospital, &c.}</td> - <td>18670</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Presents to Caciques</td> - <td>306</td> - <td class="left"> Provisions for exiles, &c.</td> - <td>25000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td>———</td> - <td class="left"></td> - <td>———</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td>112404</td> - <td>Total</td> - <td>159439</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td>======</td> - <td></td> - <td>======</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>In 1765 the <i>situado</i> was 50992 dollars, and in 1646 it was only 28280.</p> - -<p>Whilst the Spaniards held Valdivia the resources of its government were -very limited. Being a close port all foreign commerce was prohibited, -and the few taxes collected in the whole province, including the diesmo, -never exceeded 500 dollars.</p> - -<p>In the city there is a parish church, another belonging to the -Franciscan convent of missionaries, formerly of the Jesuits, and a -chapel appertaining to the hospital of San Juan de Dios. The -ecclesiastical department was dependent on the see of Conception, but -the conventual was a branch of the establishment at Chillan, subject to -the provincialate of Santiago de Chile.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p><p>Valdivia was a place of exile, <i>presidio</i>, to which convicts were sent -from Peru and Chile. Their number was but small, and they were employed -in the public works.</p> - -<p>The province of Valdivia extends from the river Tolten in 38° to the -Bueno in 40° 37´ south, and from the Andes to the Pacific, being about -52 leagues long and 45 wide. The three principal rivers in this province -are Tolten, Bueno and Valdivia. Their origin is in three separate lakes -of the Cordillera, from whence they run in a westerly direction, -receiving in their progress several smaller streams and emptying -themselves into the sea. Valdivia river enters the harbour of the same -name, which is the only one in the province. This river, after uniting -its waters to those of San Josef, Cayumapu, Ayenaguem, Putabla, Quaqua -and Angachi, besides a great number of rivulets and estuaries, becomes -navigable for canoes of 200 quintals or 20 tons burthen. Between the -fort Cruces and Valdivia several small but beautiful islands are found: -the principal are Realexo, Del Almuerso, Balensuela, El Islote, De Mota, -San Francisco, De Ramon, De Don Jaime and Del Rey, which is the largest, -being about seven leagues in circumference. There are besides a great -number of smaller ones. In all the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> streams and ravines in the -neighbourhood of the city and port are to be seen the vestiges of gold -washings, <i>labaderos</i>, which are at present totally neglected. After -heavy rains grains of gold as large as peas are often found, but there -are no accounts in the treasury of the working of any mines since the -year 1599, when the first revolution of the indians took place, and the -city fell into their hands. At Valdivia I saw two chalices made of the -gold thus accidentally collected.</p> - -<p>"Tolten el Bajo is the northernmost mission. Situated between the rivers -Tolten and Chaqui, it extends about four miles along the sea coast, and -is one of the largest missions, <i>reducciones</i>, in the province, -containing about 800 indians. The Tolten rises in the lake Villarica. It -has no port, but is navigable with canoes; being too deep to be -fordable, it has a bridge, which gives the indians the command of the -road between Valdivia and Conception. Horned cattle and sheep are not -scarce here; and maize, peas, beans, potatoes, barley, and a small -quantity of wheat are cultivated; but in general the soil is not very -fertile. Though the indians are more submissive than those of some other -missions, they are equally prone to the common vices of drunkenness and -indolence. Their commerce<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> consists in bartering coarse ponchos for -indigo, glass beads, and other trifles. At the annual visit of the -<i>comisario</i> a kind of market is held for such traffic: at this visit the -indians renew the <i>parlamento</i>, or promise of fidelity to the King of -Spain. The comisario assures them, in a set speech, of the spiritual and -temporal advantages which they will derive from remaining faithful to -their King; and the Cacique, having in a formal harangue acknowledged -his conviction of the truth of this assurance, the indians, being on -horseback, make a skirmish with their lances and wooden swords, -<i>macanas</i>, and, riding up to the comisario, alight, and point their arms -to the ground, in sign of peace, which is all they ever promise. They -worship Pillian, and their ceremonies are the same as those of the rest -of the Araucanian nation: for although they call themselves Christians, -their religion is reduced to the ceremony of attending at mass, &c.</p> - -<p>"Querli extends from Purulacu to the river Meguin, being about 18 miles, -and containing 70 indians. Their commerce is an exchange of coarse -ponchos, sheep and hogs, for indigo, beads, &c.</p> - -<p>"Chanchan, which extends about 12 miles, contains 40 indians, produces -maize, peas, beans,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> barley, and a little wheat. Owing to the vicinity -of the fort de Cruces the indians are more docile and domesticated.</p> - -<p>"Mariquina is about 54 miles in circumference, and contains 110 indians. -The soil is good, and there is an abundance of apples, some pears and -cherries.</p> - -<p>"Chergue is 42 miles long and 4 broad. It contains 135 indians. Its -produce and commerce are similar to those of the places above mentioned.</p> - -<p>"Huanigue is situated near the Cordillera, on the banks of lake Ranigue, -the source of the river Valdivia. This lake is about 20 miles in -circumference, and is rich in fish, particularly <i>pege</i>, <i>reyes</i>, and a -species of trout. In 1729 the indians of this mission revolted, and they -have never been sufficiently reconciled to admit of a missionary to -offer peace or fealty. The indians of Huanigue wear nothing on their -heads: for shirts they substitute a species of scapulary, made of raw -bullock's hide, covering it with the poncho. They are expert fishers, -and pay little attention to the cultivation of the soil, which is very -fertile.</p> - -<p>"Villarica. The ruins of this city are yet visible, particularly those -of the walls of orchards and of a church. The town stood on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> side of -a lake, bearing the same name, about 25 miles in circumference, and -abounding with fish. The soil is very fertile, and the indians raise -maize, potatoes, <i>quinua</i>, peas, beans, barley and wheat. Apple, pear, -peach and cherry-trees are seen growing where they were planted by the -Spaniards before the destruction of the city. The indians neither admit -missionaries nor comisario. They have all kinds of cattle and poultry, -which they exchange with other tribes for ponchos, flannels, &c. being -very averse to trade with the Spaniards.</p> - -<p>"Ketate and Chadqui, containing about 280 indians, are at the distance -of 34 leagues from Valdivia. There is plenty of fruit, vegetables and -cattle; the soil is good, and the inhabitants docile; subject to -missionaries and comisario.</p> - -<p>"Dongele, or Tolten Alto, is on the banks of a rapid river of the same -name. It is distant from Valdivia 120 miles, and possesses a rich soil, -productive of maize, peas and other pulse, fruit and cattle: there are -80 indians of manageable habits.</p> - -<p>"Calle-calle and Chinchilca, 45 miles from Valdivia, contain some small -fertile vallies. The maize grown here is very large; indeed all the -vegetable productions are good, and the meat from their cattle is fat -and well-tasted.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> They have 70 peaceable Indians, who receive -missionaries and comisario.</p> - -<p>"Llanos is the most fruitful part of the province of Valdivia. It is -about 48 miles long, from Tunco to the lake Rames, and on an average 15 -broad. It produces wheat of an excellent quality, barley, all kinds of -pulse, and fruit. The beef and mutton are very fat and savoury. The -number of indians residing in the Llanos is 430. They are docile, and -not so drunken and indolent as other tribes. From a place called -Tenguelen to another, Guequenua, there are many vestiges of gold mines, -<i>labaderos</i>, where at some remote period a great number of persons must -have been employed in mining, which is at present entirely -neglected."<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> - -<p>As any authentic accounts of this almost unknown but highly interesting -country cannot fail to be acceptable, I shall here introduce some -extracts from the journal kept by Don Tomas de Figueroa y Caravaca, -during the revolution of the indians in the year 1792, Figueroa being -the person who commanded the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> Spanish forces sent against the Indians by -the government of Valdivia.</p> - -<blockquote><p>"October 3d I left Valdivia with an armed force of 140 men, and the -necessary ammunition and stores. We ascended the river -Pichitengelen, and the following morning landed at an appointed -place, where horses and mules were in readiness to convey us to -Dagllipulli; but the number of horses and mules not being -sufficient, I left part of our baggage and provisions behind, under -guard, and proceeded with the rest to Tegue, about six leagues -distant, where we arrived in the afternoon, and owing to the -badness of the road did not reach Dagllipulli before the 6th. I -encamped; and being informed in the afternoon, that some of the -rebels were in the neighbourhood, with a party of picked soldiers -and horse I scoured the woods, and burned twelve indians' houses, -filled with grain and pulse. After securing what I considered -useful for ourselves, I followed the indians in the road they had -apparently taken towards Rio-bueno, but on my arrival I learnt that -they had crossed the river in their canoes. I therefore immediately -returned to Dagllipulli. On the 10th the Caciques Calfunguir, -Auchanguir, Manquepan, and Pailapan came to our camp, and offered -to assist me against the rebels Cayumil, Qudpal, Tangol, Trumau, -and all those on the other side of Rio-bueno.—13th. An indian who -had been taken declared to me that the Cacique Manquepan was acting -a double part, he having seen him go to the enemy at night with his -<i>mosotones</i>.—16th. Burnt twenty-four houses belonging to the -indians, and seized thirty-two bullocks.—19th. I told the Cacique -Calfunguir that I doubted the fidelity of Manquepan, and that he -had been playing the <i>chueca</i> (a game already described); at night -an indian came to my tent and told me that Calfunguir had joined -Manquepan; that both had gone to the rebels, taking with them their -mosotones, and that they would probably return immediately, in the -hopes of surprising me. However this did not occur; and on the -following morning I advanced with part of my force to Rio-bueno, -but did not arrive until the two Caciques had taken to a small -island in the river, leaving in my possession a number of horses -and cattle. Whilst stationed here two indian women were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> observed -to ride full speed towards the river, apparently determined to pass -over to the enemy, but some of the friendly indians took one of -them, and brought her to me, having killed the other. I questioned -her as to her motives for joining the rebels, but received no -answer; when the indians observing her obstinacy, put her and a -small child which she had in her arms to death. I retired to my -camp, taking with me the cattle, &c. left by the enemy on the bank, -of Rio-bueno.—21st. The traitor Manquepan came again to our camp, -and having consulted the whole of the friendly Caciques as to the -punishment which he and his comrades deserved, it was unanimously -determined, that he and all those who had come with him as spies -should be put to death. I immediately ordered my soldiers to secure -them, and having convinced them that I well knew their infamous -intentions and conduct, I ordered that Manquepan, and the eighteen -mosotones who had come with him into our camp as spies, should be -shot. This sentence was put in execution in the afternoon of the -same day.—29th. We finished a stackade, and mounted four -pedereroes at the angles, as a place of security in the event of -any unexpected assault. I sent to Valdivia forty women and -children, captured at different times in the woods.—Nov. 1st. -Three large canoes were brought to our camp, having ordered them to -be made, for the purpose of crossing Rio-bueno, should the rebels -persist in remaining on the opposite banks, or on the islands in -the river.—10th. After mass had been celebrated at three <span class="smaller">A. M.</span> and -my soldiers exhorted to do their duty in defence of their holy -religion, their king and country, we marched down to the river -side, and launched our three canoes, for the purpose of crossing -over to one of those islands where the greater number of the rebels -appeared to have been collected. I embarked with part of the -troops, and arrived on the island without suffering any loss from -the stones, lances and shot of the enemy.</p> - -<p>"Having landed, I observed a party of about a hundred indians on -mount Copigue, apparently determined to attack the division I had -left behind, which being observed, the division advanced and routed -the rebels.—During the night the indians abandoned their -entrenchments on the island, and we took possession of them.—On -the 11th, in the morning, I immediately landed part of my force on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> -the opposite shore and pursued the rebels. At eleven <span class="smaller">A. M.</span> I came -up with part of them, commanded by the Cacique Cayumil, who was -killed in the skirmish. I ordered his head to be cut off and -buried, being determined to take it on my return to Valdivia. We -continued to pursue the enemy, and in the course of the day killed -twelve indians, one of whom was the wife of the rebel Cacique -Quapul. As it was almost impossible for me to follow the enemy any -further, our horses being tired, and it being insecure to remain -here, we returned to our camp on the 13th, taking with us 170 head -of horned cattle, 700 sheep and 27 horses, which had been abandoned -by the fugitives. A female indian was found in the woods, on our -return, with a murdered infant in her arms; she declared that her -child was crying, and that being fearful of falling into our hands -she had destroyed it.—21st. We marched to the banks of the Ravé, -where I had a <i>parlamento</i> with the Caciques Catagnala and Ignil, -who, as a proof of their fidelity, offered to surrender the city -and territory of Osorno.—22nd. The Caciques Caril and Pallamilla, -with Ignil and Cataguala and all their mosotones, joined us, and we -marched towards the ruined city of Osorno, and having arrived at -the square or <i>plasa</i>, I directed the Spanish flag to be placed in -the centre, and in the presence of all the indians I asked the -Caciques if they made cession of this city and its territories to -his Majesty the King: to which they answered they did. I -immediately ordered the erection of an altar, and having placed the -troops and indians in front, high mass was chaunted by the -chaplain; after which I took the Spanish flag in my hand, and -placing myself between the altar and the troops, called attention, -attention, attention, and proclaimed three times Osorno, for our -Lord the King Charles the fourth and his successors: to which the -priest replied, amen, and the troops and indians gave repeated -<i>vivas</i>. A discharge of our pedereroes and small arms then took -place, and the Caciques came forward, and pointing their arms to -the ground in token of peace and fidelity, kissed the flag. The -remainder of the day was spent in feasting and rejoicing."</p></blockquote> - -<p>The above extract affords a fair specimen of the mode of warfare pursued -by the Spaniards<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> and indians. The following is from a letter written in -the Araucanian tongue, as it is pronounced:—</p> - -<blockquote><p>"Ey appo tagni Rey Valdivia carapee wilmen Lonco gneguly mappu -ranco fringen. Carah nichfringen, fenten tepanlew pepe le pally -cerares fringuey Caky Mappuch hyly eluar Rupo gne suniguam Caaket -pu winca; engu frula Dios, gnegi toki el meu marry marry piami Jesu -Cristo gne gi mew piami."</p> - -<p class="center">TRANSLATION.</p> - -<p>"The King's Governor of Valdivia, to any person who may be at the -head of the people or congress of the Spaniards supposed to be -living at Lonco:—assured that some of my dear countrymen are -residing in the fear of God among the infidels of the country, I -send you health in our Lord Jesus Christ, who is the true health."</p></blockquote> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Where the number of Indians has been given it is to be -understood as referring to such as are capable of managing a horse and -lance and going to war. Of these the province of Valdivia contains about -2150, and the total indian population is estimated at 10500 souls.</p></div></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>City of Conception de -Mocha....Foundation....Situation....Government....Tribunals....Bishop....Military....Churches....Houses....Inhabitants and Dress....Provincial Jurisdiction....Produce....Throwing the -<i>Laso</i>....Fruit....Timber Trees....Shrubs....Mines....Birds....Wild Animals....Lion Hunt....Shepherd Dogs....Breeding Capons....Return to Conception.</p></blockquote> - -<p>I left Arauco at seven <span class="smaller">A. M.</span> with two soldiers as guides and guards, for -the news having arrived of a declaration of war between England and -Spain, I was now considered a prisoner. We crossed the Carampangy, and -about noon reached the small village Colcura. Its situation is very -romantic, being a high promontory, which commands an extensive prospect -of the country and the sea, with a distant view of the island Santa -Maria. We dined at the house of the <i>cura</i>, who treated me with the -greatest attention. We afterwards rode about twelve miles to a large -farm house, and became the guests of the family for the night, enjoying -the good things provided by the hospitality of these kind people, who -welcomed us as though we had conferred rather than received a favour by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> -calling at their dwelling. The following morning, after taking <i>mate</i>, -we proceeded to San Pedro, on the banks of the Bio-bio. This is one of -the forts built by the Spaniards on the frontiers of Araucania. It was -taken and destroyed by the indians in 1599, but rebuilt by the Spaniards -in 1622. It is garrisoned by a detachment of troops from Conception. -During the late troubles in Chile it was alternately in the possession -of the Spanish and Patriot forces; but from the year 1819 the latter -have kept it in possession. Commanding the river where it is most -fordable, this fort served as a protection to Conception against the -combined fury of the Spaniards and indians.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we crossed the Bio-bio, and arrived at Conception. The -river Bio-bio, which is two miles in breadth at San Pedro, rises in the -Cordillera, and enters the sea about five miles to the south of -Talcahuano, the port of Conception, having two mountains at the mouth -called <i>las tetas de Bio-bio</i>, paps of Bio-bio. It is navigable by -canoes and flats to a considerable distance from the mouth. The finest -timber grows on its banks, which the wars of conquest and emancipation -have repeatedly deluged with blood!</p> - -<p>The city of Conception de Mocha, or Penco, the original name of the -country where it stands,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> was founded in the year 1550 by Don Pedro de -Valdivia; sacked and burnt by the Toqui Lautaro in 1553, and again -destroyed in 1603. The indians were repulsed by Don Garcia Hurtado de -Mendoza, and it was rebuilt; but a dreadful earthquake ruined it in -1730, when the sea was driven up to the city and inundated the -surrounding country. Conception is built on a sandy uneven soil, six -miles east of Talcahuana, its sea-port, and about one mile north of the -Bio-bio A small river called the Andalien runs through the city, -supplying a beautiful fountain in the principal square. According to -Ulloa its latitude is 36° 43´ 15´´ south, and its longitude 72° 54´.</p> - -<p>In 1803 the government of this city was in the hands of a Governor, -nominated by the King, and a <i>Cabildo</i>, corporation, at the head of -which were two Alcaldes ordinarios or mayors. The Cabildo is formed of -eight Regidors and four other officers, who are called, de officio, -Alferes real, royal ensign; Alcalde de provincia, provincial alcalde; -Alguasil mayor, city sheriff; and Fiel Executor, examiner of weights and -measures. Each member has an elective vote and a Sindico Procurador, who -has consulting powers.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p><p>The alcaldes are annually elected by the regidors (without any -interference whatever of the governor) out of the resident citizens, -with the exception of ecclesiastics, soldiers, and debtors to the crown. -If one of the alcaldes die or be absent, the eldest regidor exercises -his functions. A demand of justice may be made to the alcalde, but there -is an appeal to the audience at Santiago, the capital of Chile. This -court was first established at Conception in 1567, but removed to -Santiago in 1574. For the military department an intendente, <i>maestre de -campo</i>, and quarter master are provided. Here is also a chamber of -finances, with an accountant and treasurer.</p> - -<p>Conception is the see of a bishop, that of Imperial, as before stated, -having been transferred to this city in 1620. It is a suffragan of Lima, -and its chapter consists of a dean, archdeacon, and four prebendaries.</p> - -<p>Besides the armed militia of the place and province, a regular military -force has always been kept up ready to repel any attempt of the -Araucanians on Conception, the frontier towns or forts. Since 1819 an -army has been stationed here under the command of General Freire, upon -whom the indians have on one occasion made an attack. They were led by -Benavides, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> passed to Talcahuano, where they committed several -murders.</p> - -<p>A new cathedral has been begun, but owing to the convulsed state of the -country the work is suspended, and will probably never be resumed. The -building is of brick and stone, and possesses some merit. The timber -which had been collected for this edifice was applied to other purposes -by the Spanish General Sanches. There are four conventual churches—the -Franciscan, Dominican, Agustinian, Mercedarian; one nunnery with the -avocation of our Lady of Conception, and the hospital of San Juan de -Dios. The convents are attached to their respective provincialates of -Santiago. When General Sanches retired from Conception in 1819, he -ordered several of the best houses in the city to be burnt, opened the -nunnery, and took the nuns with him, but abandoned them at Tucapel, -where these victims of a barbarous chief yet remain among the indians, -having been persuaded by Sanches and some Spanish priests, that to -return to their home would be treason to their King, the Lord's -anointed, and subject them to all the miseries temporal and eternal of -an excommunication <i>de ipso facto incurrenda</i>.</p> - -<p>The houses are commonly one story high, but some are two, built of -<i>tapia</i>, mud walls; or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> <i>adoves</i>, large sun-dried bricks, and all of -them are tiled. The largest have a court-yard in front, with an entrance -through arched porches, and heavy folding doors, having a postern on one -side. Two small rooms usually complete the front view. The windows have -iron gratings, with many parts of them gilt, and inside shutters, but no -glass. This article has been too dear, and it is consequently only used -in the windows of the principal dwelling apartments of the richer -classes. On each side of the court, or <i>patio</i>, there are rooms for -domestics, the younger branches of the family, and other purposes. In -front of the entrance are the principal ones, generally three; a species -of large hall, furnished with antique chairs, with leather backs and -seats, and one or more clumsy couches to correspond in shape and -hardness, a large table made of oak or some similar wood, and very often -a few old full-length portraits of persons belonging to the family, -hanging in gilt frames. The beams of the roof, which are visible, are -not unfrequently ornamented with a profusion of carved work. Two folding -doors open into the parlour: the side next the front patio is raised -about twelve inches above the floor, which is carpetted, and furnished -with a row of low stools, covered with crimson velvet,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> with cushions to -match at their feet, and a small table about eighteen inches high, as a -work table, or for the convenience of making mate. This portion of the -parlour is allotted to the ladies, who sit upon it cross-legged: a -custom no doubt derived from the moors. If a gentleman be on familiar -terms with the family, he will take a seat on one of the stools on the -<i>estrado</i>, or cross his legs and sit among the ladies; more especially -if he can play on the guitar, or sing, which are the favourite -accomplishments. Other male visitors, after bowing to the ladies, seat -themselves on the opposite side, where chairs are placed to match the -stools and cushions. Facing the entrance to the parlour is the principal -dormitory, with an alcove at the end of the estrado, where a state bed -is displayed, ornamented with a profusion of gilt work, and fitted up -with velvet, damask, or brocade curtains, and gold or silver lace and -fringe. The sheets and pillow cases are of the finest linen, and trimmed -with deep lace. Not unfrequently one or more silver utensils peep from -underneath. It appears as if the whole attention of the females were -devoted to this useless pageant, which is only used on the occasion of a -birth, when the lady receives the first visits of congratulation.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p><p>Behind this part of the building there is another court, or patio, -where the kitchen and other appropriate apartments are situated, and -behind the whole is the garden. Thus it is not uncommon for a house to -occupy fifty yards in front and eighty yards in depth, including the -garden. The patios have corridors round them, the roofs of which are -supported by wooden pillars. The dwellings of the lower classes are on -the same plan, except that they have no courts or patios, the fronts -being open to the street; but they have usually a garden at the back, -where the kitchen is built separately from the house, as a precaution -against fire.</p> - -<p>In the principal square stand the cathedral and bishop's palace on one -side; the barracks with a corridor on another; the governor's palace and -its offices on the third, and some of the larger houses on the fourth. -The extent of the square is about one hundred yards on each side. The -streets cross each other at right angles. The generality of the cities -and large towns in South America are built according to this -arrangement.</p> - -<p>Among the inhabitants are to be found some families of ancient nobility. -The present Duke de San Carlos, a grandee of the first class, and late -Spanish Ambassador in England, is of the family of the Caravajales, and -a native of Conception.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span></p><p>The dress of the men is similar to the European, but either a long -Spanish cloak or a poncho is worn over it, the latter being generally -preferred, particularly for riding—an exercise of which both the ladies -and gentlemen are very fond, and in which they excel. The women wear a -bodice fancifully ornamented, and over a large round hoop, a plaited -petticoat of coloured flannel, black velvet or brocade. In the house -they have no head dress, but in the streets, if going to church, the -head is covered with a piece of brown flannel, about a yard broad, and -two long; if on pleasure or a visit, a black hat similar to the men's is -worn, under which a muslin shawl is thrown over the head. Many of the -young women prefer the <i>basquiña y manton</i>, a black silk or stuff -petticoat without a hoop, and a black silk or lace veil; but others like -the hoop, as it shews their slender waists to advantage. The hair is -braided, or platted, hanging in loose tresses down their backs. The -ladies are so fond of jewellery that necklaces, ear-rings, bracelets and -finger-rings are never dispensed with; and some of the principal wear -diamonds and other precious stones of great value. The rosary, too, is a -necessary part of the dress of both old and young.</p> - -<p>During the summer, and in fine weather, the evening is dedicated to a -promenade, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>generally on the banks of the Bio-bio, and afterwards to -friendly visits. The luxury of harmony and friendship is enjoyed in all -its extent. The guitar, the song, the dance and refreshments are to be -found in every street. Conviviality takes the reins, whilst affection -and esteem curb the grosser passions.</p> - -<p>The climate is similar to that of the southern provinces of France. The -winter season is rainy, but not cold; and the heat of the summer sun is -moderated by the winds from the south, which are cooled by travelling -over the Pacific; or by those from the east, which are refreshed by -passing over the snowy tops of the Cordillera.</p> - -<p>The jurisdiction of Conception extends from the river Maule in 34° 50´ -to Cape Lavapies in 37° 10´. In it are the <i>correginientos</i> or -prefectures of Puchacay and Rere. Its principal towns and villages are -Gualqui, San Juan, Quilpolemu, Luanco, Villavicencio, Comicó, and -Chillan, which was ruined by the Araucanians in 1599, and has not since -been a place of much note.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of this province consist of a few Spaniards, some white -creoles, mestizos, a few slaves of different colours, and fewer indians, -the aboriginal tribe of Promaucians being now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> extinct. The whites or -Creoles are a very fine race. The men are well formed, and have regular -features and good complexions. The women are generally handsome and -remarkably polite. The mestizos can scarcely be distinguished from the -whites, and it is perhaps their situation in life, not the -uncontroulable accident of birth which constitutes the difference. The -greatest blessing to a stranger, hospitality, is the constant inmate, or -rather ruler of every house, cottage or cabin; and, contrary to the -rites of other hospitable people, who limit this virtue to a stated -period, the longer a stranger remains the more kindly is he treated. -Those who come to visit are often tempted to establish a residence, and -may positively call themselves strangers at home.</p> - -<p>Nature has been extremely bountiful to this country. Its equable and -mild climate, and its rich soil produce every fruit, pulse and vegetable -known in Europe, if we except some exotics, which have been reared in -the more southern latitudes: oranges, lemons, sugar-cane, bananas and -sweet potatoes do not thrive here, owing perhaps more to the cold rains -in the winter than to any other cause. Horned cattle, and horses, of an -excellent quality, are in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> great plenty. The vineyards are numerous and -fertile. Those near the river Maule yield a grape of a very superior -taste, from which a large supply of wine is produced for home -consumption and for the Lima market, where any quantity is acceptable -and finds a ready sale. For want of proper vessels, however, a large -portion is lost, and the quality of the whole much injured. Light wines -might be made equal to the best French, and generous ones equal to -Sherry and Madeira. A sort of wine called Muscadel far exceeds that of -the same name in Spain, and is quite as good as Frontignac. The simple -utensils used are made of baked clay, in which the juice is fermented -and the wines preserved, having only a wooden cover. Notwithstanding -such disadvantages, some of the wines are of remarkably good strength -and flavour. Their brandy, from a want of proper vessels, is also -greatly deteriorated. The vines mostly grow on espaliers, and are not -detached stems as in the generality of the European vineyards.</p> - -<p>Excellent wheat is produced in great abundance, the crops yielding from -eighty to one hundred fold. Very large quantities are annually sent to -Lima, Guayaquil, Panama, and Chiloe. The average price at Conception is -ten reals for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> 216 pounds weight, about five shillings and sixpence; and -at Lima thirty reals, or sixteen shillings and sixpence. It may be -considered the great staple commodity of the country.—Barley, maize, -<i>garbansos</i>, beans, <i>quinua</i>, and lentils are also cultivated for -exportation, and yield heavy crops. Potatoes, radishes and other -esculents, as well as all kinds of culinary vegetables and useful herbs -are raised in the gardens. The <i>zapallo</i> is very much and justly -esteemed, being, when green, equal to asparagus, and when ripe, similar -to a good potatoe. It will keep in a dry place for six months. Tobacco -was formerly grown near the river Maule, but the royal monopoly put an -end to its cultivation, which on the emancipation of the country will -probably again be attended to.</p> - -<p>The greater portion of these rich lands is appropriated to the breeding -and fattening of horned cattle, goats and sheep, and the necessary -attendance upon them forms the chief occupation of the lower classes. -The generality of the cows are never milked, but are left to rear their -calves in the plains. When the latter are a year old they are separated, -branded, and put on another part of the farm, for enclosed fields or -pastures are a refinement with which the graziers of South America are -unacquainted.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> Indeed the farms themselves are divided by such landmarks -as a hill, a mountain, a river, the sea, &c. The price of land being -low, disagreements respecting boundaries are very rare.</p> - -<p>Land in the interior, of such quality as to produce every sort of grain, -or to feed all kinds of cattle, is often sold for a dollar, or even much -less, the <i>quadra</i>, one hundred square yards, being more than two acres. -When the horned cattle are sufficiently fat, or rather at the killing -season, which is about the months of February and March, from five -hundred to a thousand, according to the size of the farm, are -slaughtered. The whole of the fat is separated from the meat and melted, -forming a kind of lard called <i>grasa</i>, which is employed in domestic -purposes. The tallow is also kept separate, and the meat is jerked. This -process is performed by cutting the fleshy substance into slices of -about a quarter of an inch thick, leaving out all the bones. The natives -are so dexterous at this work that they will cut the whole of a leg, or -any other large part of a bullock into one uniformly thin piece. The -meat thus cut is either dipped into a very strong solution of salt and -water, or rubbed over with a small quantity of fine salt. Whichever mode -of curing is adopted, the whole of the jerked meat is put on the hide<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> -and rolled up for ten or twelve hours, or until the following morning. -It is then hung on lines or poles, to dry in the sun, which being -accomplished, it is made into bundles, lashed with thongs of fresh hide, -forming a kind of network, and is ready for market. In this operation it -loses about one third of its original weight. The dried meat, <i>charqui</i>, -finds immediate sale at Lima, Arica, Guayaquil, Panama and other places. -Besides the large quantity consumed in Chile, it furnishes a great part -of the food of the lower classes, the slaves, and particularly the -seamen, being the general substitute for salt beef and pork. The <i>grasa</i> -and tallow are also readily sold at the places above mentioned, and are -of more value than the meat. The hides are generally consumed in making -bags for grain, pulse, &c., thongs for the various purposes to which -rope is applied in Europe, or leather of a very good quality.</p> - -<p>The slaughtering season is as much a time of diversion for the -inhabitants of this country as a sheep-shearing is in England. For two -or three days the peasants, <i>huasos</i>, are busy collecting the cattle -from the woods and mountains, and driving them into an enclosure made -for the purpose. The fat and lean cattle being mixed together, the -latter are separated from the former,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> and driven out; after which one -fixed upon for slaughter is allowed to pass the gate, where a peasant -stands armed with a sharp instrument in the shape of a crescent, having -the points about a foot apart, and as the beast passes he first cuts the -hamstring of one leg, and then of the other. Should he miss his aim, a -bystander follows the animal at full gallop, and throws the laso over -its horns, by which it is caught and detained till another comes up, and -either hamstrings or casts a second laso round its hind legs, when the -two men, riding in different directions, throw the beast down, and -immediately kill it. One of them now takes off the skin, collects into -it the tallow and fat, which with the meat he carries to a shed, when -the process of jerking, salting, &c. as already described, is -immediately begun.</p> - -<p>The females in the mean time are all busy cutting up the fat, frying it -for grasa, and selecting some of the finer meat for presents and home -consumption. The tongues are the only part of the head that is eaten, -the remainder being left to rot. In the above manner great numbers of -cattle are annually killed, their bones being left to whiten on the -ground where they fed.</p> - -<p>It is surprizing to Europeans and other<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> strangers to see with what -dexterity the laso is thrown. Made of platted or twisted raw hide, it is -about one and a half inch in circumference, sometimes less, and being -greased in the process of its manufacture, is extremely pliable, -stronger than any other kind of rope of treble the thickness, and very -durable. The length is from twenty to thirty feet, and at one end is a -noose, through which a part of the thong being passed a running knot is -formed. Instead of the noose there are occasionally a button and loop. -The <i>huaso</i> (or laso thrower) extending the opening formed by passing -the thong through the noose, lays hold of the laso, and begins to whirl -it over his head, taking care that the opening does not close. Having -determined on his object the laso is thrown with unerring precision. A -bullock is caught by the horns, and a horse or a sheep by the neck; and -as this is often done at full speed, the peasant will wind the end of -the laso which he holds round his body, and suddenly stopping his horse, -the entangled animal receives such a check that it is frequently upset. -One end of the laso is often made fast to the sursingle, or girth of the -saddle, particularly when a bull or large bullock is to be caught. On -such occasions the horse, as if aware of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> resistance he will have to -make, turns his side towards the object, and inclines his body in the -opposite direction. I have seen him dragged along by the beast, his feet -making furrows in the ground, for more than two yards. The people are so -expert in this art and so attached to it, that it is deemed quite -disgraceful to miss the object. Several of the higher classes exercise -it as an amusement, and not only in Chile, but in almost every part of -South America which I visited; all classes, when residing in the -country, carry the laso behind the saddle. Even the children are often -seen throwing the laso, and catching the poultry, dogs and cats, in the -houses, yards or streets. Thus this necessary accomplishment grows up -with these people. In the late wars it has not been uncommon for the -militia to carry their lasos, with which great numbers of Spanish -soldiers have been caught and strangled. The rider being at full speed, -the moment it was thrown, the unfortunate fellow who happened to be -entangled could not extricate himself, and was dragged at the heels of -his adversary's horse until he was killed.</p> - -<p>Goats are fattened for their tallow and skins, which latter besides -their application to the purposes of holding wine, spirits, cider, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>&c. -are generally tanned with the bark of the <i>palque</i> or the <i>peumo</i>, -instead of that of oak, and for shoes and similar articles make an -excellent leather, called <i>cordovan</i>. The goats are altogether -productive of great profit.</p> - -<p>Some of the horses in the province of Conception are excellent, being -similar in size and shape to the famous Andalusian. They are much valued -in all South America, and fetch very high prices in Peru. I have seen -them at Quito, which, considering the difficulties of transport that are -to be surmounted, is a very great distance; but although every effort -has been used to preserve the breed out of the territory of Chile, it -has as yet been unavailing.</p> - -<p>All kinds of provisions are plentiful in this province; poultry is -remarkably cheap, fat and well flavoured; ducks and geese breed twice -every year; turkeys and barn door fowls during the whole year; and from -the mildness of the climate the broods thrive with little loss. The -prices are consequently low: a good fat turkey may be bought for about -one shilling, and fowls for sixpence a couple.</p> - -<p>Apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, plums and cherries, are produced in -such profusion that they are considered of no value. Figs are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> abundant -and good; and the strawberry grows wild; I have seen some nearly as -large as a hen's egg. The melons and <i>sandias</i>, water melons, are also -very large, and are extremely nice, particularly the latter, to which -the natives are partial. Olives do not thrive here. Near the river Maule -there are cocoa nut trees or palms, differing from the other species of -the same genus in the size of the nut, which is usually about as big as -a walnut. Some of the trees are thirty feet high; the trunk is -cylindrical, and free from leaves except at the top, where, similar to -other palms, they form a circle, presenting a most beautiful appearance. -The flowers are in four large clusters at the top of the tree, from -whence the leaves spring. When in bud they are enclosed in a fibrous -woody sheath, and when the fruit begins to form the spathe divides -itself into two parts, each about three feet long and two broad. A bunch -or cluster, often contains as many as a thousand nuts. Nothing can be -more striking than this tree under the burden of its fruit, over which -the branches form a kind of dome, supported by the column-like stem. The -fruit resembles in every respect the tropical cocoa nut; the kernel is -globular, having a space in the centre, which, when the nut is green, is -filled with an agreeable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> milky tasted liquor, but when dry is quite -empty. A curious method is employed for divesting the nuts of their -outer rind. They are given to the horned cattle, and being swallowed by -them, the filaceous substance is digested, and the nuts voided quite -clean. All those sent to market have previously undergone this process! -If a bunch of flowers or green nuts be cut from the palm, a large -quantity of thick sweet sap, similar to honey, is yielded, and on the -stem of the tree being tapped the same liquor is produced; this -operation however weakens it so much, that the palm either dies or gives -no more fruit for a number of years. The greatest quantity of this sap -is obtained by cutting down the tree, and lighting a fire at the end -where the branches grow: as the tree burns, the sap is driven out at the -root and collected in calabashes; fuel is gradually supplied, until the -whole of the trunk is consumed, and all the sap extracted, which -sometimes amounts to about forty gallons. This tree seldom bears fruit -till it is one hundred years old. Whether it be indigenous to Chile, or -the produce of the tropical cocoa nut planted here, I could never -ascertain. The natives make baskets of the leaves, and sometimes thatch -their cottages with them. Walnuts are also grown, and together with -cocoa nuts are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> exported to Lima, Guayaquil, &c. The <i>gevuin</i> is another -species of nut, called by the Spaniards <i>avellano</i>, from its taste being -like that of the hazel nut. This tree grows to the height of fifteen -feet; the fruit is round, about three quarters of an inch in diameter, -and covered with a coriaceous shell, which is at first green, afterwards -of an orange colour, and when ripe of a dark brown; the kernel is -divided into two lobes, and is generally toasted before being eaten. The -<i>molle</i> may be classed without impropriety among the fruit trees, -because the indians prepare from its berries (which are black, the size -of peas, and grow in small clusters round the slender branches of the -tree) a kind of red and very palatable wine, called <i>chicha</i> or <i>molle</i>. -Frazier says in his voyage, "it is as pleasant and as strong as wine, if -not more so." The taste is really agreeable, and its flavour peculiarly -aromatic.</p> - -<p>The <i>maqui</i> is another tree, bearing a fruit like a <i>guind</i>, or wild -cherry, from which a pleasant fermented beverage is made, called -<i>theca</i>. The people are fond of the fruit, and parties go into the woods -to gather it. A friend told me, that in one of these excursions, when a -boy, he had wandered into a wood to gather maqui, and seeing a woman in -a tree with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> her face of a purple colour, he supposed that she had been -rubbing it with the fruit for the sake of frightening him; however, -determined to shew his courage, he ascended the tree, when, to his great -surprise and terror, he found that it was an idiot belonging to the -village, who had hanged herself with her handkerchief tied to one of the -uppermost branches! The peumo produces a fruit which is much liked, -though I never could eat it on account of its strong oily and rather -rancid smell. The tree is tall, and its fruit has the appearance of -green olives; to prepare it for eating it is dipped in warm water, but -not boiled, because that operation renders it bitter. The pulp is -whitish and buttery, and I have no doubt that as large a quantity of oil -might be obtained from it as from the olive. Great quantities of -<i>murtillas</i>, myrtle berries, are found in this province, and are very -delicate. Pernetty, who saw some in the Falkland Isles, or Malvinas, -says, "the fruit is of a beautiful appearance and very pleasant taste; -by being put into brandy with a little sugar, it forms a delicious -liquor, which has in a slight degree the smell of ambergris and of musk, -by no means disagreeable even to persons who dislike those perfumes." -From these berries the natives also make an agreeable <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>fermented liquor, -<i>chicha de murtilla</i>. The <i>arrayan</i>, a myrtle, grows to the height of -seventy feet. The fruit, which is about the size of a large pea, is -eaten, and has a pleasant taste. A delicate liquor is made from it, and -the wood is very valuable.</p> - -<p>The principal trees found in the province of Conception are the -<i>canelo</i>, or <i>boghi</i>, which grows to the height of fifty feet, and -produces good timber. It has two barks; the inner one is whitish, but -when dried assumes the colour of cinnamon, and somewhat resembles that -spice in taste. The Araucanians entertain so much veneration for this -tree, that a branch of it is always presented as a token of peace, and -when a treaty is concluded it is tied to the top of the Toqui's axe, and -the President's <i>baton</i>. The luma grows from forty to fifty feet high; -its wood is tough, and is used for small spars and oars, but it is too -heavy for masts. Large cargoes are sent to Lima for coach making and -rafters. On rich soils the <i>espino</i> attains the size of an oak. Its wood -is very solid and of a dark brown, veined with black and yellow, and is -capable of receiving an excellent polish. It is used for cart wheels, -being very ponderous and durable, and makes excellent fuel, and the -hardest and best charcoal. The flowers of the espino are flosculous, of -a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> deep yellow colour, and so very fragrant that they are called -<i>aromas</i>. A species cultivated in the gardens bears a larger flower, -which having a long and slender footstalk, is often inserted by the -ladies in the flower of the jessamine and placed in their hair. The -joint scent of the two is delightful. The <i>pehuen</i>, or <i>pino de la -tierra</i>, grows in the southern parts of this province, but it arrives at -greater perfection in Araucania. It is from seventy to eighty feet high, -and eight in circumference. At the height of thirty feet it has -generally four opposite horizontal branches, which gradually decrease in -extent until they terminate in a point at the top, presenting the form -of a quadrangular pyramid. The cone, or fruit, resembles that of the -pine, and the seeds are considered a great delicacy. These <i>piñones</i>, as -they are called, are sometimes boiled, and afterwards, by grinding them -on a stone, converted into a kind of paste, from which very delicate -pastry is made. The pino is cultivated in different parts of this -province on account of its valuable wood and the piñones; it may be -said, indeed, to be the only tree, except those which yield wine, to -which the natives pay any attention. The resin exuding from it is called -<i>incienso</i>, and is used by the Chileans as incense.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></p><p>The banks of the Bio-bio are thickly covered with both red and white -cedar trees, some of which are seventy feet high, and twenty in -circumference. They are split into slender planks, for slight work, but -their exportation from this province is not great, because the deals can -be purchased at a much lower price in Chiloe, where, I have been -informed by persons of veracity, there are cedars which yield from eight -to nine hundred boards, twenty feet long, twelve inches broad and one -thick. It is said that water keeps better at sea in casks made of the -red cedar, than in those of any other wood. The <i>floripondio</i> grows to -the height of six feet, and has a profusion of delightfully fragrant -pendant flowers, which are white, bell-shaped, and from eight to ten -inches long, and three in diameter at the mouth. Their odour partakes of -that of the lily, and one tree, when in bloom, is sufficient to perfume -a whole garden. The floripondio arrives at greater perfection on the -coasts of Peru, where it is seen in the hedgerows. A species of cactus, -<i>quisco</i>, is very common in some parts of this province; it bears thorns -from eight to nine inches long, of which the females make knitting -needles.</p> - -<p>There are a great variety of shrubs in the forests of Conception, and -some of them are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> very aromatic. Those which are particularly useful for -dyeing are the <i>diu</i>, <i>thila</i> and <i>uthin</i>, of which the bark and leaves -dye black. The juice of the berries of the <i>tara</i>, and of the <i>mayu</i> are -used for writing ink, as well as for dyeing. The leaves of the <i>culen</i>, -another shrub, have a taste somewhat similar to tea, for which they are -often substituted. They are considered a vermifuge and a tonic. Frazier -says, that the culen produces a balsam, very efficacious in healing -wounds; but I never witnessed this quality. Senna grows luxuriantly near -the Maule, and is equally as good as that of the Levant; an infusion of -its leaves is often given, and I believe successfully, as a diuretic, -particularly in calculous complaints. A shrub called here the <i>palqui</i>, -and in Peru the holy herb, <i>yerba santa</i>, is thought to be an antidote -to inflammatory diseases; for this purpose the green leaves are soaked -in water, then rubbed between the hands, and again soaked, until the -water be quite green, in which state a copious draught is taken; and for -external inflammation it is applied as a wash. There are several wild -plants which yield bright and permanent colours for dyeing. Red is -obtained from the <i>relbun</i>, a species of madder; <i>Contra yerba</i>, a kind -of agrimony, furnishes yellow, as does another plant called <i>poquel</i>; a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> -violet is procured from the <i>culli</i> and the <i>rosoli</i>; and the <i>panqui</i> -yields a permanent black. This peculiar plant grows in moist swampy -places; its height is from five to six feet, and the principal stem is -sometimes six inches in diameter; the leaves are roundish, rough and -thick, and at full growth are three feet in diameter. When the plant is -in perfection, the natives cut it down, and split the stem, which -contains a large portion of tanin. The black for dyeing is obtained from -the expressed juice of the root.</p> - -<p>I scarcely ever met with any person in this province who did not assure -me that gold mines were to be found in numberless places; I certainly -never saw any worked, but the universal assurance of the inhabitants, -and what has been written by Molina, Frazier, and other persons of -veracity, leave me no room to doubt their existence.</p> - -<p>Among the feathered tribe I observed a bird about the size of a pullet, -having black and white feathers, a thick neck, rather large head, a -strong bill a little curved, and on the fore part of the wings two -reddish spurs, like those of a young dunghill cock. It is on the alert -the moment it is alarmed, and rising from the ground, hovers over the -object which has disturbed it. The noise which it makes when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> in this -situation, and which is probably intended as a signal of danger to other -birds; has induced some of the natives to call it <i>tero-tero</i>; but -others name it <i>despertador</i>, awakener. Finches, <i>gilgueros</i>, and the -<i>thili</i>, a kind of thrush, are numerous, as are the grey and red -partridge. Both the latter birds are much esteemed, though I preferred -the large wood pigeons, <i>torcasas</i>, some of which are the size of a -small pullet. Feeding entirely on herbage, they are particularly fond of -the leaves of turnips, and they make their appearance in such numbers -that they would destroy a whole field in one day. Their flesh is of a -dark colour, but juicy and savoury. Of the larger species of herons I -saw three different kinds, one as large as the European heron, and quite -similar to it; one of a milk white colour, with a neck more than two -feet long, and its red slender legs equally long; and another not quite -so large, with a beautiful tuft of white feathers on its head. In -several places near the coast I observed flamingoes, and was charmed -with their delicate pink plumage; they are not eaten by the natives. I -also remarked several species of wild ducks, and three of wild geese; -one called of the Cordillera is very good eating, the others I was told -are strong and fishy. The wild swan<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> is as large as the European swan, -but is not so handsome. It has a black bill and feet, black and white -plumage, and is in shape much like a goose, but is never eaten. I had in -my possession a tame eagle, which measured ten feet from one tip of its -wings to the other; its breast was white spotted with black, the neck -and back also black, and the tail and wings of a brown tinge with -transverse black stripes. I saw several of the same kind and others of a -smaller species in the woods. Parrots very much abound, but their -plumage is not handsome, being of a dirty dead green. These birds are -very destructive of the fruit and maize.</p> - -<p>At Villavicencio I was highly entertained in hunting a <i>pagi</i>, or -Chilean lion. On our arrival the people were preparing to destroy this -enemy to their cattle; several dogs were collected from the neighbouring -farms, and some of the young men of the surrounding country were in -great hopes of taking him alive with their lasos, and of afterwards -baiting him in the village for the diversion of the ladies; whilst -others were desirous of signalizing the prowess of their favourite dogs. -All of them were determined to kill this ravenous brute, which had -caused much damage, particularly among their horses. The hunt was the -only subject of conversation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> on the Sunday, which was the day fixed for -its occurrence. At four o'clock we left the village, more than twenty in -number, each leading a dog, and having a chosen laso on his arm, ready -to throw at a moment's warning. About a mile from the village we -separated, by different bye-roads, into five or six parties, the men -taking the dogs on their horses, to prevent, as they said, the -possibility of the scent being discovered by the pagi. All noise was -avoided—even the smoking of segars was dispensed with, lest the smell -should alarm their prey, and they should lose their sport. The party -which I joined consisted of five individuals. After riding about four -miles we arrived at a small rivulet, where a young colt was tied to a -tree, having been taken for that purpose. We then retired about three -hundred yards, and the colt being alone began to neigh, which had the -desired effect, for before sunset one of our party, placed in advance, -let go his dog and whistled, at which signal three other dogs were -loosed and ran towards the place where the colt had been left. We -immediately followed, and soon found the pagi with his back against a -tree, defending himself against his adversaries. On our appearance he -seemed inclined to make a start and attempt an escape. The lasos were -immediately in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>motion, when four more dogs came up, and shortly -afterwards their masters, who hearing the noise had ridden to the spot -as fast as the woods would permit them. The poor brute seemed now to -fear the increase of his enemies. However he maintained his post and -killed three of our dogs; at which the owner of one of them became so -enraged, that he threw his laso round the neck of the pagi, when the -dogs, supposing the onset more secure, sprang on him, and he was soon -overpowered, but so dreadfully wounded and torn that it became necessary -to put an end to his life. The length of this animal from the nose to -the root of the tail was five feet four inches, and from the bottom of -the foot to the top of the shoulder thirty-one inches. Its head was -round, and much like that of a cat, the upper lip being entire, and -supplied with whiskers; the nose flat, the eyes large, of a brownish -hue, but very much suffused with blood; the ears short and pointed. It -had no mane. The neck, back and sides were of a dusky ash colour, with -some yellowish spots; the belly of a dirty white; the hair on its -buttocks long and shaggy. Each jaw was armed with four cutting, four -canine, and sixteen grinding teeth; each of its fore paws and hind feet -with five toes, and very strong talons. Four lasos attached to the -girths of the saddles of two horses were fastened<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> to the pagi, which -was thus dragged to the village, where we arrived about nine o'clock, -and were received by the whole of the inhabitants with shouting and -rejoicing. The remainder of the night was spent in dancing and -carousing.</p> - -<p>The people informed me that the favourite food of the pagi is -horse-flesh; that watching a good opportunity it jumps upon the back of -its prey, which it worries, tearing the flesh with one paw whilst it -secures its hold with the other; after sucking the blood it drags the -carcase to some hiding place, covers it with leaves, and returns when -hungry to devour it. If it enter a place where horned cattle are kept, -the bulls and cows immediately form a circle, and place the calves and -young cattle in the centre; they then face their enemy boldly, and not -unfrequently oblige him to retreat, on which happening, the bulls follow -him and often gore him to death. It would therefore appear to be more -from fear than choice that he is attached to the flesh of horses. The -animal was never known to attack a man; so timid is he of the human -race, that he runs away at the appearance of a child, which may perhaps -be accounted for from the abundance of cattle supplying him so easily -with food that he is seldom in want of flesh.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p><p>The <i>vicuña</i> and <i>guanaco</i> are known in Chile; I shall however defer a -description of them until I treat of the <i>llama</i> and <i>alpaca</i> of Peru. -The <i>chilihueque</i>, spoken of by several travellers, seems to be the same -as the <i>llama</i>, but as I never saw it I am unable to determine this -point. The description and properties of the two are very similar. The -<i>culpen</i> is a species of fox, and is very destructive to poultry and -lambs. It is rather more foolish than daring, but not void of the latter -quality. It will advance within eight or ten paces of a man, and after -looking at him for some time, will retire carelessly, unless pursued, -when it betakes itself to the bush. Its colour is a dark reddish brown, -with a long straight tail covered with shaggy hair; its height is about -two feet. For the preservation of the lambs against this enemy the -natives train their dogs to the care of the flock in a curious manner. A -young puppy is taken, before its eyes are open, and an ewe is forced to -suckle it every night and morning until it can follow the flock, when, -either under the direction of a shepherd boy, or in company with an old -trained dog, it is taught to keep the sheep together, to follow them in -the morning to graze, and to drive them to the fold at night. It is -never allowed to follow its master. No <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>shepherd could be more faithful -to his trust than one of these dogs; it leaves the fold with the flock -in the morning, watches it carefully during the day, keeping off the -foxes, eagles and other animals, and returns with it at sunset. It -sleeps in the fold, and the sheep become so habituated to the society of -their guardian that they allow him to wander among them without any -alarm. At night, when the dog arrives with his charge, he first drives -them into the fold; he then runs two or three times round it, as if to -be certain of its safety against any lurking enemy, and afterwards goes -to the house and barks, but immediately returns to the fold, where he -waits for his supper. If it be brought he remains quiet, otherwise he -again visits the house and barks until he is properly attended to, when -he lays himself down among the sheep. Some people have imagined that it -is a peculiar breed of dogs that are so trained, but this is an error -which experience enables me to contradict; for I have seen several -different kinds in charge of different flocks, the whole of their -sagacity being the effect of their training. Whilst on the topic of the -training of animals I cannot refrain from mentioning the ridiculous -appearance of the capons, which are taught to rear broods of chickens. -When one or more hens bring forth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> their young, these are taken from -them, and a capon being caught, some of the feathers are plucked from -its breast and the inner part of its thighs, and the animal is flogged -with nettles, and is then put under a basket with the young chickens. -This is generally done in the evening, and in the morning, after -brooding the chickens all night, the old capon struts forth with its -adopted family, clucking and searching for food with as much activity as -the most motherly old hen! I was told that capons rear a brood much -better than hens; and I have seen one of them with upwards of thirty -chickens. The hen being thus freed from her brood soon begins to lay -eggs again, which is a very great advantage.</p> - -<p>After an excursion of three weeks, I returned to Conception with my -friend, Don Santiago Dias, to whom I brought letters of introduction -from my good host at Arauco, Don Nicolas del Rio, which were most -willingly attended to, and rendered my detention as a prisoner of war a -delightful series of excursions into the country, and of parties of -pleasure in the city.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> I have made particular mention of the form of the Cabildos, -because they have been preserved since the revolution just as they -existed before it.</p></div></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Sent to Talcahuano....Description of the Bay and Anchorage....Plain -between Conception and Talcahuano....Prospectus of a Soap -Manufactory here....Coal Mine....Town, Custom-house, Inhabitants, -&c....Fish, &c. caught in the Bay....Colonial -Commerce....Prospectus of a Sawing Mill.</p></blockquote> - -<p>After staying a few days at Conception, I was sent for by the governor -to Talcahuano, a ship being there ready to sail for Lima. I took with me -a note to a resident in the port, and was received by him with the -greatest possible kindness; he requested me to make his house my home -until the ship should be ready to sail; a request with which I very -willingly complied.</p> - -<p>The bay of Talcahuano is one of the largest on the western shores of -South America: from north to south its length is about ten miles, that -is from the main land on one side to the main land on the other; from -east to west it is seven miles. In the mouth of the bay lies the island -Quiriquina, forming two entrances; that on the east side is the safer, -being two miles wide with thirty fathoms water, decreasing gradually -towards the usual anchorage at Talcahuano, where, about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> half a mile -from the shore, there are ten fathoms water. It is well sheltered from -the north wind; but the swell is so great during a norther (as the north -winds are here called) that it is almost impossible to land, though at -any other time the landing is good on any part of the beach.</p> - -<p>From Conception to Talcahuano, a distance of six miles, the surface of -the ground is composed of loose sand intermixed with sea shells; about -half a yard deep a continued stratum of marine shells is found, exactly -similar to those shell-fish with which the sea abounds at this place: -they are the <i>choro</i>, muscle, <i>pie de burra</i>, or ass's foot, the -<i>bulgados</i>, a species of snail, and the <i>picos</i>, barnacles. This stratum -is generally from twelve to fifteen feet thick; and a similar one is -found in the hills, three hundred feet above the level of the sea; -being, no doubt, the effect of some tremendous earthquake, which took -place before this country was known to the old world; for it is certain, -that what now constitutes the valley of Penco or Conception was at some -remote period a part of the Pacific Ocean. From these shells all the -lime used in building is procured. The land between Talcahuano and -Conception is not fit for cultivation; it presents rather a dreary -appearance; however, some cattle graze on the marshy or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> low parts, and -their meat is considered very delicate. Abundance of salsola grows in -this neighbourhood, from which kali might be procured in great -quantities for the purpose of manufacturing soap, which, as tallow and -other fat can be bought here at a low rate, would be a very lucrative -speculation. Soap bears a high price in Peru, and in almost every part -of the country, being seldom under forty dollars the quintal or hundred -pounds weight in Lima, and higher in the interior. The facility of -procuring good lime and plenty of fuel would be of importance to such an -establishment, besides which, the cheapness of copper, from the mines of -Coquimbo and Copiapo, for making the necessary utensils, is an advantage -of some consideration.</p> - -<p>Of all the Spanish writers Herrera alone makes mention of the existence -of coal in the province of Conception. In Dec. 8, 1. 6, c. 11, he says, -"there is a coal mine upon the beach near to the city of Conception; it -burns like charcoal;" and he was not mistaken, for the stratum does -exist on the north side of the bay of Talcahuano, near the anchorage on -that side, and very near the ruins of Penco Viejo, which was destroyed -by the earthquake in 1730, and not rebuilt, because the present -anchorage was considered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> preferable. To what extent the coal reaches -has never yet been ascertained; all that has been used has been obtained -by throwing aside the mould which covers the surface. This coal is -similar in appearance to the English cannel, but it is reasonable to -suppose, that if the mine were dug to any considerable depth, the -quality would be found to improve, and that the work might be productive -of immense wealth to its possessor.</p> - -<p>There is a custom-house at Talcahuano, and the necessary officers for -collecting the importation and exportation duties; barracks for the -garrison belonging to the small battery, a house for the residence of -the commanding officer, a parish church, also about a hundred houses, -with several large stores, <i>bodegas</i>, for corn, wine, and other goods. -The population consists of about five hundred inhabitants, principally -muleteers, porters, and fishermen.</p> - -<p>The bay abounds with excellent fish; the most esteemed are the <i>robalo</i>; -this fish is from two to three feet long, nearly of a cylindrical form, -having angular scales, which are of a gold colour on the back, declining -to a very beautiful transparent white on the belly: it has a bluish -stripe along the back, bordered on each side with a deep yellow; the -flesh is delicately<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> white, and has a delicious taste. The <i>corbina</i> is -generally about the size of the robalo, though sometimes much larger; -its body is of an oval form, covered with broad semi-transparent white -scales, on which are some opaque white spots; it is encircled obliquely -with a number of brownish lines, the tail is forked, and the head small; -its flesh is white and well tasted. The <i>lisa</i> is a kind of mullet; it -is found both in fresh and in salt water; the latter, however, is much -better than the former: it is about a foot long, its back is of a dirty -greenish colour, its sides and belly white, with large scales; its flesh -is white, very fat, and is excellent. The <i>peje rey</i> is very similar to -a smelt, but when full-grown is of the size of a herring; it has not the -same odour as the smelt, but is equally nice when cooked.</p> - -<p>In the vicinity of Talcahuano is the gold fish, about ten inches long, -flat and of an oval form, with small scales; it is of a bright gold -colour, and has five zones or bands surrounding it. One round the neck -is black, two others about the middle of the fish are grey, one near the -tail is black, and the fifth, at the juncture of the tail with the body -is grey; its flesh is very delicate. The <i>chalgua achagual</i>, called by -the Spaniards <i>peje gallo</i>, cock fish, is about three feet long; its -body is round, rather thicker in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> middle than at the neck or near -the tail; it is covered with a whitish skin, but has no scales; on its -head it has a cartilaginous crest about three quarters of an inch -thick—its flesh is not good. The <i>tollo</i>, a species of dog-fish, is -about three feet long; it has two triangular dorsal spines, remarkably -hard, but no other bones; it is salted and dried, and sent to the Lima -market, being rarely eaten fresh, although it is then very good. On the -coasts the natives catch a variety of species that are common to other -seas, such as the skate, the dog-fish, saw-fish, old wife, conger eel, -rock cod, whiting, turbot, plaice, bonito, mackerel, roach, mullet, -pilchard, anchovy, &c.</p> - -<p>Among the mollusca tribe the muscle is very fine; I have frequently seen -them eight inches long, and their flavour is excellent. They are often -salted and dried; after which they are strung on slender rushes, and in -this manner large quantities are exported. The white urchin is of a -globular form, about three inches in diameter, with a whitish shell and -spines; the interior substance is yellow, but very good to eat. The -<i>pico</i> is a kind of barnacle, adhering to steep rocks at the water's -edge: from ten to twenty of them inhabit as many separate cells of a -pyramidal form, made of a cretaceous substance, with a little aperture -at the top of each cell; they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> receive their food at this hole, where a -kind of small bill protrudes, similar to that of a bird, and hence the -animal receives its name of pico, a bill. They are very white, tender, -and most delicate eating. The <i>loco</i> is oval, and its shell is covered -with small tuberosities: it is from four to five inches long, and the -interior or edible substance is white, and very excellent. Of the -molluscas the <i>piuri</i> is the most remarkable, in respect both to its -shape and habitation; the latter is formed of a coriaceous matter, -adhering to the rocks, and which is divided into separate cells, by -means of strong membranes. In each of these, in a detached state, is -formed the piuri; it is about the size of a large cherry, which it so -much resembles in colour, that the following anecdote is related: a -native of Chiloe had never seen any cherries until he came to -Conception, and observing an abundance there he exclaimed, "What a -charming country this is, why the piuries grow on the trees!" This -animal, if it deserve to be so called, is eaten either roasted or -boiled, and has a taste similar to that of the lobster: great quantities -are annually dried for exportation.</p> - -<p>Of the crustaceous fishes, the <i>xaiva</i>, crab, has a shell that is nearly -spherical, about three inches in diameter, and two inches deep, -furnished with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> spines upon the edges. The <i>apancora</i>, another of the -crab species, has an oval shell, denticulated, and generally larger than -the xaiva; both are red when boiled, and their flesh is well tasted. -Crawfish, <i>camarones</i>, are sometimes caught of the enormous weight of -eight or nine pounds each, and are very good.</p> - -<p>The principal commerce between this port and some of the other Spanish -colonies consists in the exportation of wheat, with which article about -six ships, of not less than four hundred tons burthen each, are annually -laden, making an average of two thousand four hundred tons, which in an -infant country, and for colonial consumption, may be considered very -great. Nearly the whole of this wheat is carried to Lima. Of jerked -beef, charqui, about six thousand quintals, with a proportionate -quantity of tallow and fat, grasa; and of wine, on an average, two -thousand jars, containing eighteen gallons each, are annually exported. -The minor articles are raw hides, wool, dried fruits, salt fish and -pulse. The imports are a small quantity of European manufactured goods, -sugar, salt and tobacco; the taxes on which produce from one hundred and -two to one hundred and five thousand dollars per annum.</p> - -<p>I have already mentioned the benefit which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> would result from a soap -manufactory being established at Talcahuano; another establishment, -however, of still greater importance, might be formed either on the -banks of the Bio-bio, or on those of the Maule: I mean a sawing mill. -Both of these rivers have a sufficient current for the purpose, and an -abundance of good timber in their vicinity. A dock yard on a trifling -scale has been established and small craft have been built at Maule; but -Guayaquil is the great dock yard on the western coast of South America, -and vessels of eight hundred tons burthen have been built there; beside -which the timber markets of Peru have been almost exclusively supplied -with wood from the forest of Guayaquil: this article is becoming scarce -in that district, and recourse must soon be had to some other parts, and -there are none that present the same facilities as the two I have now -mentioned. The forests of the province of Conception are as yet -untouched; the price of labour there does not exceed one-third of that -at Guayaquil; the hire of cattle for bringing the wood from any part of -the forests to the river side bears the same proportion as the price of -labour; the advantage of superiority of climate is also attached to this -province, as well as that of the total absence of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>ravenous beasts and -poisonous reptiles, which abound in the woods, rivers and estuaries of -Guayaquil. The conducting of timber to the port of Talcahuano for -embarkation, and its shipment in small vessels in the Maule, are -facilities of considerable importance; to which we may add the short -passage from either of these two places to the principal established -market of Lima, the passage from Guayaquil being of a treble duration. -Small vessels only can get out of the Maule, because a bar at the -entrance of the river would prevent the egress of large ships when -deeply laden. Another powerful reason why sawing mills might be -established with greater ease on those rivers than at Guayaquil is, that -they would increase the means of subsistence among the labouring -classes, and consequently would merit their protection; whereas at the -latter place sawing is the occupation of a great portion of the -inhabitants of the city, who make very high wages, in consequence of -which any establishment detrimental to so numerous a body of artizans -would be strenuously resisted, and probably attended with fatal results. -It will no doubt appear surprizing to persons in England acquainted with -this branch of the arts, that three quarters of a dollar, equal to about -three shillings and two pence, should be paid at <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>Guayaquil for sawing a -plank from a log of wood ten or twelve inches square by eighteen feet -long, the timber not being harder than the English fir. The price for -timber brought down to the port of Talcahuano is very low. <i>Liñe</i>, -somewhat resembling ash, and applicable to the same uses, may be -delivered in logs twenty feet long and twelve inches square, for about -one dollar each, and all other kinds of wood at similar rates; while a -single inch plank from the same tree would be worth nearly double the -sum at Lima. Attached to an establishment of this kind, the carrying of -fire wood to Lima would be attended with considerable profit—a cargo of -fire wood weighing fourteen quintals is sold here for only one dollar, -while in Lima it often sells for from one to one and a half dollar per -quintal.</p> - -<p>The ship <i>Dolores de la Tierra</i> being ready to sail for Lima, I was -ordered on board, and obliged to leave with regret an enchanting -country, where I had been treated with unbounded hospitality by its -inhabitants. My kind host, Don Manuel Serrano, took care to recommend me -to the captain, beside which he sent on board, for my use, more -provisions than would have served me for three such voyages.</p> - -<p>The foregoing is a brief description of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>Conception as I saw it in the -year 1803. I visited it again in 1820, and in the course of my narrative -I shall have occasion to mention it at my second visit, and to contrast -its appearance at those two periods.</p> - -<p>If in my description of this part of South America I have sometimes -touched on the changes that have happened or are likely to happen, it -has been when speaking of places which I did not afterwards visit.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Leave Talcahuano in the Dolores....Passage to -Callao....Arrival....Taken to the Castle....Leave Callao....Road to -Lima....Conveyed to Prison.</p></blockquote> - -<p>My present situation was very disagreeable. The government of Conception -had placed me on board a Spanish vessel, and had given orders to the -captain to deliver me up, the moment he should arrive at Callao, to the -governor of the fortress. At the same time he had been charged with -letters, containing perhaps an account of my having landed on the -Araucanian coast; of having visited part of that almost unknown -territory, as also part of the province of Conception. Such it was -reasonable to expect would be the information conveyed, if either the -reports prevailing at that time respecting the cruel system of Spanish -jealousy in their colonies were to be credited; or those which have been -more recently circulated, that all foreigners would be incarcerated, -sent to the mines or to places of exile, for having merely dared to -tread the shores of this prohibited country. I should have desponded, -had not practice taught me to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> regard those reports as exaggerated -tales, the fictions or dreams of the biassed, and not worthy of the -least belief. I was, at the time I landed, ignorant of the existence of -any prohibitory laws; but I now reflected, that no doubt foreigners were -not allowed to settle in a Spanish colony without having obtained those -permissions and passports which are considered equally as indispensable -here as in the British colonies; documents which are as essentially -necessary to Englishmen as to foreigners; but I also recollected the -kind treatment which I had received at Conception, as much a Spanish -colony as the place of my destination; I had learned, too, that -foreigners resided in this part of the country, some of whom were in the -actual employ of the government; it had come to my knowledge that an -Irishman, Don Ambrose Higgins, had filled the offices of Captain-General -of Chile, and of Viceroy of Peru.—These reflections contributed to make -me comparatively happy, and by adhering to a maxim which I had -established, never to allow the shadow of future adversity to cloud the -existence of present comfort, my life was always free from fear and -disquietude. My stay among the pastoral indians of Arauco, for barbarous -I cannot call them, had been one continued scene of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> enjoyment, -unalloyed with any apprehension of approaching evils, and this conduct -had not contributed a little to make me so welcome a guest. I had -followed the same principles whilst at Conception with equal success.</p> - -<p>The ship in which I embarked had on board eight thousand fanegas of -wheat, with some other Chilean produce, and an abundance of poultry, for -the Lima market; she was built at Ferrol in the year 1632, of Spanish -oak, and was the oldest vessel in the Pacific; her high poop and clumsy -shape forming a great contrast with some of the recently-built ships at -Guayaquil, or those from Spain. The conduct of the captain, the officers -and passengers, was marked with every kindness. I had a small cabin to -myself, but I messed with the captain and passengers, and the eleven -days which we were at sea were spent in mirth and gaiety, not a little -heightened by the female part of a family going to settle in Lima. The -father kindly invited me, should an opportunity present itself, to -reside at his house during my stay in that city, an invitation of which -I should certainly have availed myself had not circumstances prevented -it. We were all anxiety to arrive at Callao, the sea-port of Lima, and -although I had fewer reasons to wish it than others, still the idea of -seeing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> something new is always pleasing, particularly to a traveller in -a foreign country; besides, I had been informed on my passage that war -had not been declared between England and Spain, and that the conduct of -the government was to be attributed to their wish to prevent any English -spies from residing at liberty in the country.</p> - -<p>On the eleventh day after our leaving Talcahuano we made the island of -San Lorenzo, which forms one side of the bay of Callao. It exhibits a -dreary spectacle, not a tree, a shrub, nor even a blade of grass -presents itself; it is one continued heap of sand and rock. Having -passed the head land, (where a signal post was erected and a look-out -kept, which communicated with Callao, through other signals stationed on -the island) the vessels in the offing, the town and batteries at once -opened on our view. The principal fortress, called the Royal Philip, -<i>Real Felipe</i>, has a majestic appearance, although disadvantageously -situated; it is on a level with the sea, and behind it the different -ranges of hills rise in successive gradations until crowned with the -distant prospect of the Andes, which in some parts tower above the -clouds. These clouds, resting on the tops of the lower ranges seemed to -have yielded their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> places in the atmosphere to those enormous masses, -and to have prostrated themselves at their feet. As we approached the -anchorage the spires and domes of Lima appeared to the left of the town -of Callao. At the moment of landing, which is the most pleasing to -travellers by sea, the passengers were all in high spirits, expecting to -embrace ere long those objects of tender affection, from whom they had -been separated by chance, interest, or necessity.</p> - -<p>Previous to our coming to an anchorage, the custom-house boat with some -others visited our ship, and I was sent ashore in that from the captain -of the port. I was immediately conveyed to the castle, and delivered to -the Governor. On my landing at Callao, I observed a considerable bustle -on what may be called the pier. This pier was made in 1779, during the -Viceroyalty of Don Antonio Amat, by running an old king's ship on shore, -filling her with stones, sand, and rubbish, and afterwards driving round -the parts where the sea washes piles of mangroves, brought from -Guayaquil, and which appear to be almost imperishable in sea water. At -the landing place I saw several boats employed in watering their ships, -for which purpose pipes have been laid down, three feet under ground, to -convey<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> the water from a spring; hoses being attached to the spouts, the -casks are filled either floating on the sea or in the boats.</p> - -<p>The houses make a very sorry appearance; they are generally about twenty -feet high, with mud walls, flat roof, and divided into two stories; the -under one forms a row of small shops open in front, and the upper one an -uncouth corridor. About a quarter of a mile from the landing place is -the draw-bridge, over a dry foss, and an entrance under an arched -gateway to the castle, the Real Felipe. I was presented to the Governor, -a Spanish colonel, who immediately ordered me to the <i>caloboso</i>, one of -the prisoners' cells: this was a room about one hundred feet long and -twenty wide, formed of stone, with a vaulted roof of the same materials, -having two wooden benches, raised about three feet from the ground, for -the prisoners to sleep on. A long chain ran along the bench for the -purpose of being passed through the shackles of the unhappy occupants, -whose miserable beds, formed of rush mats, were rolled up, and laid near -the walls. I had an opportunity to make a survey of this place before -the prisoners entered; until then I was left quite alone, pondering over -my future lot, for this was the first time I could consider myself a -prisoner; however, I consoled myself with the hope of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>release, or if -not, a removal to some more comfortable situation. In this hope I was -not mistaken, for before the prisoners, who were malefactors employed at -the public works, arrived, a soldier came and ordered me to follow him. -He took up my bed, while I took care of my trunk, and in this manner I -left the abode of crime and misery in which I had been placed. I was -conducted to the guard-house, where that part of the garrison on duty -are usually stationed. I now found myself among such a curious mixture -of soldiers as eyes never witnessed in any other part of the world; but -I reconciled myself to my lot, especially as it was not the worst place -in the castle. In a short time I was sent for to the officers' room. I -there found several agreeable and some well-informed young men, with two -very obstinate and testy old ones, who, though of superior rank, were -heartily quizzed by their subalterns. Such is the ease and frankness of -the South Americans in general, that before I had been an hour in the -room, one of the officers, a young lieutenant, and his brother, a cadet, -had become as familiar with me as if we had been old acquaintance. They -were natives of Lima, both had been educated at San Carlos, the -principal college, and both lamented that the most useful branches of -science were not taught<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> in the Spanish colleges to that extent, and -with that precision which they are in England. The lieutenant also -observed, that as the rectors and heads of their colleges were -churchmen, the studies were confined principally to theology, divinity -and morality, which circumstance caused them to neglect the useful -sciences; and this he ascribed as a reason why in those studies the -students made little progress. But, continued he, our libraries are not -destitute of good mathematical and philosophical books, which some of -our young men study, and they are at all times willing to instruct their -friends. I spent the time in a very agreeable chit chat with my new -acquaintance till ten o'clock, when the lieutenant rose and requested me -to wait his return, saying he was going to the governor for <i>el santo</i>, -the watchword, and for the orders of the night. He returned in about -half an hour, pulled off his uniform coat, put on a jacket, and then -told me, in the most friendly manner, that the governor had given orders -for my removal to Lima on the following morning; on which he -congratulated me, saying, that as that was a large city I should be more -comfortable, although a prisoner, than at Callao; he also informed me -that, it being the first day of the month, September, 1803, part of the -garrison would be <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>relieved by detachments from the capital, and that he -was included in that number, and would be happy in giving me a seat in -the <i>valancin</i>, hackney coach, which he should hire. About twelve -o'clock my bed and trunk were carried to his sleeping room, and I -remained in conversation with him till day broke; we slept about an -hour, and then arose to breakfast, which consisted of a cup of very good -chocolate for each of us, some dry toast, and a glass of water. At -eleven o'clock, the detachment having arrived, we left Callao in a -valancin, which is a kind of carriage, having the body of a coach on two -wheels, drawn by two horses, one in the shafts and the postillion -mounted on the other.</p> - -<p>The city of Callao, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1746 and -swallowed up by the sea, was at a short distance to the southward of the -present town. On a calm day the ruins may yet be seen under water at -that part of the bay called the <i>mar braba</i>, rough sea, and on the beach -a sentry is always placed for the purpose of taking charge of any -treasure that may be washed ashore, which not unfrequently happens. By -this terrible convulsion of nature upwards of three thousand people -perished at Callao alone. I afterwards became acquainted with an old -mulatto, called Eugenio, who was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> one of the three or four who were -saved; he told me that he was sitting on some timber which had been -landed from a ship in the bay, at the time that the great wave of the -sea rolled in and buried the city, and that he was carried, clinging to -the log, near to the chapel, a distance of three miles.</p> - -<p>From Callao to Lima it is six miles, with a good road, for which the -country is indebted to Don Ambrose Higgins; but he unfortunately died, -after being Viceroy three years, leaving this useful work incomplete. -The finished part extends only about two miles from the gateway, at the -entrance to the city, and has a double row of lofty willows on each -side, shading the foot-walk. He also furnished it, at every hundred -yards, with neat stone benches; and at about every mile a large circle -with walls of brick and stone, four feet high, and stone seats are -erected. These circles are formed for carriages to turn in with greater -ease than on the road. On each side of the foot-walk runs a small stream -of water, irrigating the willows in its course, and nourishing -numberless luxuriant weeds and flowers. It was the intention of the -Viceroy to carry the road down to Callao in the same style as it now -exists near the city, but only the carriage road<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> was finished. It has a -parapet of brick raised two feet high on each side, to keep together the -materials of the road. On the right hand side, going from the port, may -be seen the ruins of an indian village, which was built before the -discovery of South America. Some of the old walls are left, formed of -clay, about two feet thick and six feet high, and which perhaps owe -their present existence to the total absence of rain in this country. To -the right is the town of Bellavista, to which parish Callao is attached, -being called its <i>anexo</i>. Here is a hospital for seamen and the poorer -class of the inhabitants. Half way between the port and the city stands -a very neatly built chapel, to which is connected a small cloister; it -is dedicated to the Virgin of Mount Carmel, and many visit it to fulfil -some vow or other which they have made at sea to this Madonna, she being -the protectress of seamen. Near the chapel is situated a house at which -are sold good brandy and wine, and it may easily be guessed which -establishment has the most customers! On approaching the city the -quality of the soil appears to be very good; large gardens with -luxuriant vegetables for the market, and fields of lucern and maize are -here cultivated, and close to the city walls there are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> extensive -orchards of tropical fruit trees, all irrigated with water drawn by -canals from the river Rimac. The gateway is of brick, covered with -stucco, with cornices, mouldings, and pillars of stone: it has three -arches; the centre one for carriages has folding doors, the two lateral -posterns are for foot passengers.</p> - -<p>The mind of a traveller is naturally led to expect to find the inside of -a city correspondent with the appearance of its entrance; but at Lima he -will be deceived. The distant views of the steeples and domes, the -beautiful straight road, its shady avenue of lofty willows, and its -handsome gateway, are contrasted, immediately on passing them, with a -long street of low houses with their porches and patios; small shops -with their goods placed on tables at the doors; no glass windows; no -display of articles of commerce; numbers of people of all colours, from -the black African to the white and rosy coloured Biscayan, with all -their intermediate shades, combined with the mixture of colour and -features of the aborigines of America:—the mere observation of this -variety of colours and features produces a "confusion beyond all -confusions."</p> - -<p>As a prisoner of war, although the two nations were at peace, I was -conducted by my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> kind friend to the city gaol, <i>carcel de la ciudad</i>, -where I remained shut up for eight months with about a hundred criminals -of the worst description. Owing, however, to a recommendation and the -promise of a remuneration from my good friend the lieutenant, the -alcalde lodged me in a room at the entrance of the prison, allotted to -persons of decent families, or to such as had the means of paying for -this convenience.</p> - -<p>I was fortunate enough to find here a native of Lima, an officer in the -army, who was confined on suspicion of forgery. He was a very excellent -man, and conducted himself towards me in a manner which contributed, not -only to my comfort whilst I was a prisoner, but finally to my -liberation. My first object in my confinement was to make myself -perfectly master of the Spanish tongue, and to obtain some knowledge of -<i>Quichua</i>, the court language of the Incas, and used wherever their -authority had been established. I was the more desirous of becoming -acquainted with this language, because it is spoken in the interior of -Peru by all classes of people: the respectable inhabitants, however, -also speak Spanish.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Lima, Origin of its Name....Pachacamac....Foundation of -Lima....Pizarro's Palace....Situation of the City....Form of the -Valley Rimac....River.... Climate....Temperature....Moists and -Rain....Soil....Earthquakes....Produce.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Lima is the capital of Peru, and derives its name from <i>Rimac</i>, which -original name its river still retains; but the valley was called by the -indians <i>Rimac Malca</i>, or the place of witches; it being the custom -among the aborigines, even before the establishment of the theocrasia of -the Incas, as well as during their domination, to banish to this valley -those persons who were accused of witchcraft. Its climate is very -different from that of the interior, and having a great deal of marshy -ground in its vicinity, intermittent fevers generally destroyed in a -short time such individuals as were the objects of this superstitious -persecution. It is recorded, that when Manco Capac and his sister Mama -Ocollo were presented by their grandfather to the indians living at -Couzcou, and were informed by him that they were the children of the -sun, their God, the fair complexion of these<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> strangers, and their light -coloured hair, induced the indians to consider them as rimacs, and they -were in consequence exiled to Rimac Malca, the place of witches, now the -valley of Lima.</p> - -<p>In September, 1533, Don Francisco Pizarro arrived at Pachacamac, a large -town belonging to the indians, where a magnificent temple had been built -by Pachacutec, the tenth Inca of Peru, for the worship of Pachacamac, -the creator and preserver of the world. This rich place of worship was -plundered by Pizarro, and the virgins destined to the service of the -Deity, though in every respect as sacred as the nuns of Pizarro's -religion, were violated by his soldiers; the altars were pillaged and -destroyed, and the building was demolished. However, when I visited it -in 1817, some of the walls still remained, as if to reproach the -descendants of an inhuman monster with his wanton barbarity. I wandered -among the remains of this temple, dedicated by a race of men in -gratitude to their omnipotent creator and preserver: a house unstained -with what bigots curse with the name of idolatry; unpolluted with the -blood of sacrifice; uncontaminated with the chaunt of anthems, impiously -sung to the Deity after the destruction of a great number of his -creatures; of prayers for success, or thanksgivings for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> victory; but -hallowed with the innocent offerings of fruits and flowers, and -sanctified with the incense breath of praise, and hymns of joyous -gratitude. It is difficult to describe the feelings by which we are -affected when we witness the ruins of an edifice destined by its founder -to be a monument of national glory, or even of personal honor; but when -we contemplate with unprejudiced eyes the remains of a building once -sacred to a large portion of our fellow creatures, and raised by them in -honour of the great Father of the universe, wantonly destroyed by a -being, in whose hands chance had placed more power than his vitiated -mind knew how to apply to virtuous purposes—we cannot avoid cursing -him, in the bitterness of our anguish. Cold indeed must be the heart of -that man who could view the ruins of Pachacamac with less regret than -those of Babylon or Jerusalem!</p> - -<p>Pizarro having arrived at Pachacamac, and being desirous of building a -city near the sea coast, he sent some of his officers to search for a -convenient harbour either to the north or to the south. They first -visited the harbour of Chilca, which, though a good one, and near -Pachacamac, was still defective; the coast was a sandy desert, and the -poor indians who lived<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> upon it for the purpose of fishing were often -forced to abandon their houses, because their wells of brackish water -became dry. The commissioners were obliged to look out for another -situation, and having arrived at Callao they found that its bay was very -capacious, with the river Rimac entering it on the north. They -afterwards explored the delightful surrounding valley, and reported -their success to Pizarro, who immediately came from Pachacamac, and -approving of the situation, laid the foundation of Lima, on the south -side of the river, about two leagues from the sea. On the 8th day of -January, 1534, he removed to it those Spaniards whom he had left for the -purpose of building a town at Jauja. Lima is called by the Spaniards La -Ciudad de los Reyes, from being founded on the day on which the Roman -Church celebrates the epiphany, or the feast of the worshipping of the -kings or magi of the east. Its arms are a shield with three crowns, Or, -on an azure field, and the star of the east; for supporters the letters -J. C. Jane and Charles, with the motto—<i>Hoc signum vere Regum est</i>. -These arms and the title of royal city were granted to Lima by the -Emperor Charles V. in 1537. Pizarro built a palace for himself, about -two hundred yards from the river, on the contrary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> side of the great -square, or <i>plasa mayor</i>, to that where the palace of the Viceroy now -stands; and the remains of it may yet be found in the <i>Callejon de -Petateros</i>, mat maker's alley. He was murdered here on the 26th of June, 1541.</p> - -<p>According to several Spanish authorities Lima is situated in 12° 2´ 51´´ -south latitude, and in 70° 50´ 51´´ longitude west of Cadiz. To the -northward and eastward of the city hills begin to rise, which ultimately -compose a part of the great chain of the Andes; or rather they are parts -of the high mountains which run north and south about twenty leagues to -the eastward of Lima. These mountains gradually descend to the sea -coast, producing between each row beautiful and fertile valleys, of -which the Rimac is one. The chain opening at the back of Lima forms the -valley Lurigancho, which closes on its suburbs. That of the greatest -height, bordering on the city, is called <i>San Cristobal</i>, and the other -<i>Amancaes</i>; the former is 1302 feet above the level of the sea, and the -latter 2652. The mountains slope towards the west, and when seen from -the bridge appear to have reached the level about three miles from that -station, which extremity, viewed from the same place, is the point where -the sun disappears at the time of the winter solstice.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> To the south -west is the island called <i>San Lorenzo</i>; more to the south lies <i>Morro -Solar</i>, about eight miles distant, where large hills of sand are -observed, which, stretching to the eastward and gently rising, form with -the Amancaes a crescent, enclosing the picturesque valley Rimac, through -which the river of that name majestically flows, producing in its course -or wherever its influence can be obtained all the beauties of Flora and -the gifts of Ceres.</p> - -<p>The site of Lima gradually inclines to the westward, the great square, -plasa mayor, being 480 feet above the level of the sea. Thus all the -streets in this direction, with many of those intersecting them at right -angles, have small streams of water running along them, which contribute -very much to the cleanliness and salubrity of the city and its -inhabitants. The water which runs through the streets, as well as that -which feeds the fountains and the canals for the irrigation of gardens, -orchards and plantations, which fill the whole valley, is drawn from the -river Rimac. This river has its origin in the province of Huarochiri, -and receives in its course several small streams, which descend the -mountains, and are produced by the melting of the snow on the tops of -the Andes, as well as by the rains which fall in the interior, at which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> -time the river swells very much, and covers the whole of its bed, which -at other times is in many places almost dry. The water in Lima is said -to be crude, holding in solution a considerable quantity of selenite, -besides being impregnated with abundance of fixed air; hence, -indigestions and other affections of the stomach are attributed to it; -but Dr. Unanue very justly asks, "may not these diseases be derived from -Cupid and Ceres?" The water is certainly far from being pure; for the -<i>artaxea</i>, which supplies the city fountains, and the <i>pugios</i>, which -supply the suburbs, called San Lazaro, are stagnant pools; both are -often full of aquatic plants, which decay and rot in them; they moreover -contain water that has been employed in the irrigation of the -plantations and farms at the back of the city, and not unfrequently -animals have been drowned in them.</p> - -<p>The climate of Lima is extremely agreeable; the heat which would -naturally be expected in so low a latitude is seldom felt, and those who -have been accustomed to the scorching sun and suffocating heat of Bahia, -on the opposite side of the Continent, or to those of Carthagena, in the -same latitude, are astonished at the mild and almost equable climate of -Lima. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>following thermometrical observations, made in the years 1805 -and 1810, will evince the truth of what has been asserted:—</p> - -<p class="center">THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS,</p> - -<p class="center">MADE AT NOON IN THE SHADE OF AN OPEN ROOM AT LIMA.</p> - -<table summary="THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS"> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td colspan="3" class="center">1805</td> - <td> </td> - <td colspan="3" class="center">1810</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>___</td> - <td>/\</td> - <td class="left">___</td> - <td></td> - <td>___</td> - <td>/\</td> - <td class="left">___</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>/ </td> - <td></td> - <td> \</td> - <td></td> - <td>/ </td> - <td></td> - <td> \</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Max.</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Min.</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Max.</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Min.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">January</td> - <td class="left">77</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">74¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">76</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">73¾</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">February</td> - <td class="left">79½</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">76</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">77</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">74¾</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">March</td> - <td class="left">78½</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">74¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">77</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">74¾</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">April</td> - <td class="left">74¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">72</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">74¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">71¼</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">May</td> - <td class="left">73¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">67</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">71¼</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">67</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">June</td> - <td class="left">65¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">65</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">66</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">64</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">July</td> - <td class="left">65</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">63</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">64¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">61</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">August</td> - <td class="left">63½</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">62¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">63¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">61</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">September</td> - <td class="left">65</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">63½</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">64¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">64</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">October</td> - <td class="left">65¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">63½</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">65¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">63½</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">November</td> - <td class="left">69½</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">65¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">69½</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">65½</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">December</td> - <td class="left">73¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">69½</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">71½</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">70</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>——</td> - <td></td> - <td>——</td> - <td></td> - <td>——</td> - <td></td> - <td>——</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mean height du-}</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>ring the Year.}</td> - <td class="left">79½</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">62¾</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">77</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">61</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>====</td> - <td></td> - <td>====</td> - <td></td> - <td>====</td> - <td></td> - <td>====</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>The coolness of the climate is occasioned by -the wind and a peculiar state of the atmosphere. -The wind generally blows from different points of the compass between the south -west and the south east. When from the former direction, it crosses in its course a -great portion of the Pacific Ocean, and when -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>it comes from the eastward it has not to -pass over sandy deserts or scorching plains, but to traverse first the immense tract of -woodland countries lying between the Brazils and Peru, and afterwards the frozen tops -of the Cordillera, at a distance of twenty leagues from Lima; so that, in both cases, it is -equally cool and refreshing. A northerly wind is very seldom felt in Lima; but when it blows, -as if by accident, from that quarter, the heat is rather oppressive. On the 6th of March, -1811, the wind being from the north, I made the following observations with a Farenheit's thermometer, -at one o'clock, p. m.</p> - -<table summary="observations at one o'clock, p. m."> - <tr> - <td class="left">In the shade in an open room</td> - <td>80°</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">In the air, five yards from the sun's rays</td> - <td>87°</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">In the sun</td> - <td>106°</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Water in the shade from sunrise</td> - <td>74°</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Water in a well 20 yards below the surface of the earth</td> - <td>70°</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Sea water at Callao at 4 p. m.</td> - <td>64°</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Heat of the body, perspiring</td> - <td>96°</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">———————after cooling in the shade</td> - <td>94°</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>The heat of the sun in summer is mitigated by a canopy of clouds, which -constantly hang over Lima, and although not perceptible from the city, -yet when seen from an elevated situation in the mountains, they appear -somewhat like the smoke floating in the atmosphere of large<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> towns where -coal is burnt; but as this material is not used in Lima, the cause and -effect must be different.</p> - -<p>If I may be allowed to give an opinion different from that of several -eminent persons who have written on the climate of Lima, it is, that the -vapours which rise on the coast or from the sea are lifted to a -sufficient height by the action of the sun's rays to be caught by the -current of wind from the southward and westward, and carried by them -into the interior; whilst the exhalations from the city and its suburbs -only rise to a lower region, and are not acted upon by the wind, but -remain in a quiescent state of perfect equilibrium, hanging over the -city during the day, and becoming condensed by the coolness of the -night, when they are precipitated in the form of dew, which is always -observable in the morning on the herbage.</p> - -<p>Lima may be justly said to enjoy one of the most delightful climates in -the world; it is a succession of spring and summer, as free from the -chills of winter as from the sultry heats of autumn.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding this almost constant equability, some writers have -imagined that four seasons are distinguishable. Such persons,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> however, -must undoubtedly have either been endowed with peculiar sensibility, or -have been gifted with an amazing philosophy. Not content with the -beauties of this climate, some have attached to it the properties which -belong to the ultra-tropical countries—jealous perhaps of the -theoretical comforts from which they are practically free, and in the -full enjoyment of a climate the maximum heat of which seldom exceeds 78° -of Farenheit's thermometer, and the minimum of which is seldom below -62°, wishing to perfect it by having the maximum at 100°, and the -minimum below zero! Peralta, in his 8th canto, has very quaintly -described the beautiful climate of this city:—</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>"En su orisonte el sol todo es aurora</div> -<div>Eterna, el tiempo todo es primavera</div> -<div>Solo es risa del cielo cada hora</div> -<div>Cada mes solo es cuenta del esfera.</div> -<div>Son cada aliento, un halito de Flora</div> -<div>Cada arroyo una Musa lisongera;</div> -<div>Y los vergeles, que el confin le debé</div> -<div>Nubes fragantes con que el ciclo llueve."</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>One of the peculiarities of this climate, as well as that of the coast -of Peru from Arica to Cape Blanco, being a distance of about 16 degrees -of latitude, is, that it can scarcely ever be said to rain. Several -theories have been <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>advanced to account for this anomaly of nature. The -following facts and explanations will, perhaps, tend to unravel the -difficulty.</p> - -<p>In April or May the mists, called <i>garuas</i>, begin, and continue with -little interruption till November, which period is usually termed the -winter solstice. The gentle winds that blow in the morning from the -westward, and in the afternoon from the southward, are those which fill -the atmosphere with aqueous vapours, forming a very dense cloud or mist; -and owing to the obliquity of the rays of the sun during this season the -evaporation is not sufficiently rarified or attenuated to enable it to -rise above the summits of the adjacent mountains; so that it is limited -to the range of flat country lying between the mountains and the sea, -which inclines towards the north west. Thus the vapours brought by the -general winds are collected over this range of coast, and from the cause -above-mentioned cannot pass the tops of the mountains, but remain -stationary until the sun returns to the south, when they are elevated by -his vertical heat, and pass over the mountains into the interior, where -they become condensed, and fall in copious rains. That rain is not -formed on the coast from these mists is attributable, first, to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> want -of contrary winds to agitate and unite the particles, and, secondly, to -their proximity to the earth, which they reach in their descent, before -a sufficient number of them can coalesce, and form themselves into -drops.</p> - -<p>The figure of the coast also contributes to the free access of the water -that has been cooled at the south pole, on its return to the equatorial -regions. From Cape Pilares to latitude 18° the direction of the coast is -nearly N. and S.; and from 18° to 5° it runs out to the westward: thus -the cold water dashes on the shores, and produces in the atmosphere a -coolness that is not experienced in other parts, where the coasts are -filled with projecting capes and deep bays; because the current, -striking against those, sweeps from the coast, and the water in these -becomes heated by the sun, and is deprived by the capes of the current -of cold water, excepting what is necessary to maintain the equilibrium, -which is diminished by absorption in the bays. The heat increases with -astonishing rapidity from latitude 1° south to 10° north; the Gulph of -Choco being deprived of the ingress of cooled water from the south by -the Cape San Francisco, and from the north by Cape Blanco. The eastern -shores of the south Continent of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>America are much warmer than the -western, owing to the great number of capes and bays. The atmosphere -does not enjoy the cooling breezes from the pole, which are diverted -from a direct course in the same manner as the currents of water, nor -the refrigerated winds from the Cordillera.</p> - -<p>The southern hemisphere is altogether much cooler than the northern: -perhaps in the same ratio that the surface land of the northern -hemisphere exceeds that of the southern.</p> - -<p>During the months of February and March it sometimes happens that large -straggling drops of rain fall about five o'clock in the afternoon. This -admits of an easy elucidation. The exhalations from the sea being -elevated by the heat of a vertical sun, and impelled by the gentle winds -during the day towards the interior and mountainous parts of the -country, are sometimes arrested in their progress by a current of air -from the eastward, which, having been cooled on its passage over the -snow-topped Andes, is colder than the air from the westward; and -wherever these currents meet the aqueous particles are condensed, and -uniting become too heavy to continue in the upper region of the -atmosphere, when they begin to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> fall, and in their descent combine with -those that fill the lower regions, and hence some large drops are formed.</p> - -<p>The following table of the weather will perhaps furnish a better idea of -the climate of Lima than any verbal description:—</p> - -<table summary="climate of Lima"> - <tr> - <td colspan="4" class="center">1805</td> - <td> </td> - <td colspan="3" class="center">1810</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="4" class="center">_______________/\________________</td> - <td></td> - <td colspan="3" class="center">_________/\_________</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">/</td> - <td colspan="2"></td> - <td>\</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">/</td> - <td colspan="2"></td> - <td>\</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left"><span class="smaller">Sun.</span></td> - <td class="left"><span class="smaller">Cloudy.</span></td> - <td class="left"><span class="smaller">Variable.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"><span class="smaller">Sun.</span></td> - <td class="left"><span class="smaller">Cloudy.</span></td> - <td class="left"><span class="smaller">Variable.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Jan.</td> - <td class="left"> 5 days </td> - <td class="left">10 days </td> - <td class="left">16 days </td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> 6 days </td> - <td class="left">11 days </td> - <td class="left">13 days.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Feb.</td> - <td class="left"> 8</td> - <td class="left"> 5</td> - <td class="left">15</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> 7</td> - <td class="left"> 4</td> - <td class="left">17</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">March</td> - <td class="left">12</td> - <td class="left"> 2</td> - <td class="left">17</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">13</td> - <td class="left"> 2</td> - <td class="left">16</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">April</td> - <td class="left"> 7</td> - <td class="left"> 9</td> - <td class="left">14</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> 6</td> - <td class="left">10</td> - <td class="left">14</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">May</td> - <td class="left"> ..</td> - <td class="left">17</td> - <td class="left">14</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> 1</td> - <td class="left">15</td> - <td class="left">15</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">June</td> - <td class="left"> ..</td> - <td class="left">21</td> - <td class="left"> 9</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> ..</td> - <td class="left">24</td> - <td class="left"> 6</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">July</td> - <td class="left"> ..</td> - <td class="left">28</td> - <td class="left"> 3</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> ..</td> - <td class="left">31</td> - <td class="left"> ..</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">August</td> - <td class="left"> ..</td> - <td class="left">27</td> - <td class="left"> 4</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> ..</td> - <td class="left">30</td> - <td class="left"> 1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Sept.</td> - <td class="left"> 3</td> - <td class="left">20</td> - <td class="left"> 7</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> 2</td> - <td class="left">21</td> - <td class="left"> 7</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">October</td> - <td class="left"> 2</td> - <td class="left">21</td> - <td class="left"> 8</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> 2</td> - <td class="left">19</td> - <td class="left">10</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Nov.</td> - <td class="left"> 4</td> - <td class="left">16</td> - <td class="left">10</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> 5</td> - <td class="left">15</td> - <td class="left">10</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Dec.</td> - <td class="left"> 4</td> - <td class="left">18</td> - <td class="left">19</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> 4</td> - <td class="left"> 7</td> - <td class="left">20</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td class="left">—</td> - <td class="left">—</td> - <td class="left">—</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">—</td> - <td class="left">—</td> - <td class="left">—</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">During the year </td> - <td class="left">45</td> - <td class="left">184</td> - <td class="left">136</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">46</td> - <td class="left">189</td> - <td class="left">129</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">==</td> - <td class="left">===</td> - <td class="left">===</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">==</td> - <td class="left">===</td> - <td class="left">===</td> - </tr> - </table> - -<blockquote><p><i>Sun</i> indicates those days in which the sun was never clouded; -<i>Cloudy</i>, those in which the sun was not visible; and <i>Variable</i>, -those in which the sun was generally clouded in the morning but -afterwards became visible.</p></blockquote> - -<p>From the foregoing explanations it must naturally be inferred, that the -dry season in the interior occurs at the time that the mists or fogs<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> -predominate on the coast, and vice versa: this is what really takes -place. The rivers on the coast are nearly dry during the misty weather, -but during the summer heat they often become impassable, owing to their -increase of water from the melting of the snow on the mountains and the -fall of rain in the interior. The <i>chimbadores</i>, or <i>badeadores</i>, men -who ford the larger rivers with goods and travellers, know from -experience and minute observation, according to the hour at which the -increase begins, at what place the rain has fallen.</p> - -<p>It may be well here to advert to a phenomenon which has as yet remained -unnoticed. The heavy rains which fall on the Cordillera of the Andes are -the effect of evaporation from the Pacific Ocean, and these rains feed -the enormous streams which supply those rivers that empty themselves -into the Atlantic. It therefore follows, that the Atlantic is furnished -with water from the Pacific; and if, as some have believed, the -Atlantida existed between the coasts of Africa and America, its western -shores being opposite to the mouth of the river Amazon, its inundation -may have been occasioned by the heavy rains in the Andes.</p> - -<p>The vegetable mould in the valley of Lima<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> is about two feet deep, and -is extremely rich, amply repaying the labour of cultivation. Below the -mould is a stratum of sand and pebbles, extending about three leagues -from the sea-coast; and under this a stratum of indurated clay, -apparently of alluvial depositions. The latter seems to have been once -the bottom of the sea, and may have been raised above the level of the -surface by some great convulsion; for I cannot suppose with Moreno, -Unanue and others, that the water has retired from this coast so much as -to occasion a fall of more than four hundred feet in perpendicular -height, which the stratum of sand and pebbles holds above the level of -the sea at its extreme distance from the coast.</p> - -<p>May not the same principles account for the general belief, that the -surface of the Atlantic on the eastern shores of the New World is above -the level of the Pacific on the western shores, notwithstanding the -apparent contradiction of the currents running round Cape Horn into the -Atlantic? Perhaps the asserted elevation, particularly in the Gulph of -Mexico, is owing to the prevailing winds that drive the surface water -into the gulf, its free egress by a sub-current being impeded by the -range of the Antilles, whose bases may occupy a greater space than -their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> surfaces, and also to the existence of rocks under water.</p> - -<p>Although Lima is free from the terrifying effects of thunder and -lightning, it is subject to dreadful convulsions which are far more -frightful and destructive. Earthquakes are felt every year, particularly -after the mists disperse and the summer sun begins to heat the earth. -They are more commonly felt at night, two or three hours after sunset, -or in the morning about sunrise. The direction which they have been -observed to keep has generally been from south to north, and experience -has shewn, that from the equator to the Tropic of Capricorn the most -violent concussions have taken place about once in every fifty years. -Since the conquest the following, which occurred at Arequipa, Lima and -Quito, have been the most violent:—</p> - -<table summary="Earthquakes"> - <tr> - <td>AREQUIPA. </td> - <td>LIMA. </td> - <td>QUITO.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3"> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">1582</td> - <td class="center">1586</td> - <td class="center">1587</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">1604</td> - <td class="center">1630</td> - <td class="center">1645</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">1687</td> - <td class="center">1687</td> - <td class="center">1698</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">1715</td> - <td class="center">1746</td> - <td class="center">1757</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">1784</td> - <td class="center">1806</td> - <td class="center">1797</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">1819</td> - <td class="center"></td> - <td class="center"></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>It has been remarked, that the vegetable world suffers very much by a -great shock, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> country about Lima, and all the range of coast were -particularly affected by that which happened in 1678. The crops of -wheat, maize, and other grain were entirely destroyed, and for several -years afterwards the ground was totally unproductive. At that period -wheat was first brought from Chile, which country has ever since been -considered the granary of Lima, Guayaquil, and Panama. Feijo, in his -description of the province of Truxillo, says, "that some of the valleys -which produced two hundred fold of wheat before the earthquake in 1687 -did not reproduce the seed after it for more than twenty years;" and -according to the latest information from Chile the crops have failed -since the earthquake in 1822. The following shocks were felt in Lima in -the years 1805 and 1810:—</p> - -<table summary="earthquake shocks"> - <tr> - <td colspan="4" class="center">1805</td> - <td> </td> - <td colspan="4" class="center">1810</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="4" class="center">_________/\_________</td> - <td></td> - <td colspan="4" class="center">________/\________</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">/</td> - <td colspan="2"></td> - <td>\</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">/</td> - <td colspan="2"></td> - <td>\</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">January</td> - <td>9, </td> - <td class="left">at 7½</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">January</td> - <td>7, </td> - <td class="left">at 9</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">A. M.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td>10, </td> - <td class="left">... 5</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">A. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td>11, </td> - <td class="left">... 5</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td>27, </td> - <td class="left">... 9</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">May</td> - <td>3, </td> - <td class="left">... 7½</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">A. M.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">February</td> - <td>17, </td> - <td class="left">... 6</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td>15, </td> - <td class="left">... 5</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">A. M.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td>21, </td> - <td class="left">... 4½</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td>16, </td> - <td class="left">... 7</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">March</td> - <td>1, </td> - <td class="left">... 5</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">A. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">June</td> - <td>15, </td> - <td class="left">... 5½</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">A. M.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">June</td> - <td>4, </td> - <td class="left">... 4½</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Nov.</td> - <td>17, </td> - <td class="left">... 5</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">A. M.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">July</td> - <td>1, </td> - <td class="left">... 5</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">A. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td>21, </td> - <td class="left">... 7½</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">A. M.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Nov.</td> - <td>7, </td> - <td class="left">... 8</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td>24, </td> - <td class="left">... 5</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td>9, </td> - <td class="left">... 8½</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td> 26, </td> - <td class="left">... 5½</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Dec.</td> - <td>5, </td> - <td class="left">... 7½</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="center">...</td> - <td>14, </td> - <td class="left">... 4½</td> - <td> <span class="smaller">P. M.</span></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span></p><p>When one or two faint shocks are felt in the moist weather, they are -supposed to indicate a change, and the same is expected in the dry or -hot weather.</p> - -<p>The principal produce of the valley of Lima is sugar cane, lucern, -<i>alfalfa</i>, maize, wheat, beans, with tropical and European fruit, as -well as culinary vegetables.</p> - -<p>The sugar cane is almost exclusively of the creole kind: fine sugar is -seldom made from it here, but a coarse sort, called <i>chancaca</i>, is -extracted, the method of manufacturing which will hereafter be -described. The principal part of the cane is employed in making -<i>guarapo</i>; this is the expressed juice of the cane fermented, and -constitutes the chief drink of the coloured people; it is intoxicating, -and from its cheapness its effects are often visible, particularly among -the indians who come from the interior, and can purchase this disgusting -vice at a low rate. The liquor is believed to produce cutaneous -eruptions if used by the white people, on which account, or more -probably from the vulgarity implied in drinking it, they seldom taste -it. I found it very agreeable, and when thirsty or over-heated preferred -it to any other beverage.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span></p><p>The manufacture of rum was expressly forbidden in Peru both by the -Monarch and the Pope; the former ordained very heavy penalties to be -inflicted, the latter fulminated his anathemas on those who should -violate the royal will. The whole of this strange colonial restriction -had for its object the protection and exclusive privilege of the owners -of vineyards in the making of spirits—a protection which cost the -proprietors upwards of sixty thousand dollars.</p> - -<p>Great quantities of lucern, alfalfa, are cultivated, for the purpose of -supplying with provender the horses and mules of Lima; and not less than -twelve hundred asses are kept for the purpose of bringing it from the -<i>chacras</i>, small farms in the valley. It generally grows to the height -of three feet, and is cut down five times in the year; it prospers -extremely well during the moist weather, but there is a great scarcity -in the summer or hot season, because it cannot then be irrigated, for it -has been observed, that if, after cutting, the roots are watered they -rot; on this account fodder is not plentiful in summer, so that if a -substitute for the lucern could be introduced it would prove a source of -great wealth to its cultivator. I never saw dried lucern, and on -inquiring why they did not dry<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> and preserve it, was told, that the -experiment had been tried, but that the green lucern when dried became -so parched and tasteless that the horses would not eat it, and that the -principal stems of the full-grown or ripe lucern very often contain a -snuff-like powder, which is very injurious to the animals, producing a -kind of madness, and frequently killing them. Fat cattle brought to Lima -are generally kept a few days on lucern before they are slaughtered; the -farmers are therefore very attentive to the cultivation of this useful -and productive plant. Guinea grass was planted near the city by Don -Pedro Abadia, but it did not prosper; whether the failure were -occasioned by the climate, or by ignorance of management, I cannot say, -but I am inclined to believe that the latter was the case.</p> - -<p>Wheat is sown, but no reliance can be placed on a produce adequate to -repay the farmer, although the quality in favourable seasons is very -good. It often happens, that the vertical sun has great power before the -grain is formed, at which time the small dew drops having arranged -themselves on different parts of the ear into minute globules, these are -forcibly acted on by the sun's rays before evaporation takes place, and -operating as so many convex lenses, the grain is burnt, and the -disappointed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>farmer finds nothing but a deep brown powder in its place. -I have sometimes seen a field of wheat or other grain most luxuriantly -green in the evening, and the day following it has been parched and dry; -this transition the farmer says is the effect of frost; which will -perhaps be admitted to be a correct explanation, if we consider that -during the night the wind has come from the eastward, and has passed -over a range of the Andes at a short distance. It sometimes also happens -that the moist season continues for a long period, or that after clear -weather the mists return; now should the farmer irrigate his fields -during this intermission, or should the mists continue, the plants shoot -up to such a great height that straw alone is harvested; but in this -case, aware of the result, he often cuts the green corn for fodder, or -turns his cattle on it to feed.</p> - -<p>The growth of maize is much attended to, and very large quantities are -annually consumed in Lima by the lower classes, and as food for hogs, -some of which animals become extremely fat with this grain, and in less -time than if fed on any other kind. Three sorts of maize are cultivated -here, each of which has its peculiar properties and uses. It appears to -have been in very extensive use among the indians<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> before the arrival of -the Spaniards; for, on digging the <i>huacas</i>, or burying grounds, at the -distance of forty leagues from Lima, I have often found great quantities -of it. A large deposit was discovered in square pits or cisterns, made -of sun-dried bricks, on a farm called Vinto, where no doubt there had -either been a public granary, or, as some people imagine, a depôt formed -by Huaina Capac, on leading his troops against the Chimu, a king of the -coasts, about the year 1420. The grain was quite entire when it was -taken up, although, according to the above hypothesis, it had been under -ground about four hundred years; owing its preservation perhaps to the -dry sand in which it was buried. Its depth beneath the surface was about -four feet, on the ridge of a range of sand hills, where no moisture -could reach it by absorption from below, its elevation being about 700 -feet above the level of the sea, and 600 above that of the nearest -river. I planted some of it, but it did not grow: however its fattening -qualities were not destroyed, and the neighbouring farmers and -inhabitants of the adjacent villages profited by the discovery.</p> - -<p>Large quantities of beans are harvested in this valley for the support -of the slaves on the estates and plantations, but the market of Lima<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> is -principally supplied from <i>valles</i>, the valleys on the coast to the -northward.</p> - -<p>Although abundance of tropical and ultra-tropical fruit trees are -cultivated in the gardens and orchards belonging to the farm houses, and -<i>quintas</i>, seats, in the valley, I shall defer an account of them until -I describe the gardens in and about the city.</p> - -<p>Culinary vegetables are grown here in abundance, including a great part -of those known in Europe, as well as those peculiar to warm climates. -The <i>yuca</i>, casava, merits particular attention, on account of its -prolific produce, delicate taste, and nutritious qualities; it grows to -about five feet high; its leaves are divided into seven finger-like -lobes of a beautiful green, and each plant will generally yield about -eight roots of the size of large carrots, of a white colour, under a -kind of rough barky husk. In a raw state its taste is somewhat similar -to that of the chesnut, and of a very agreeable flavour when roasted or -boiled; the young buds and leaves are also cooked, and are as good as -spinage. It is propagated by planting the stalks or stems of the old -crop, cutting them close to the ground after about four inches are -buried in the mould, which must be light and rather sandy. Two species -are known; the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> crop of the one arrives at full growth in three months, -but this is not considered of so good a quality, nor is it so productive -as the other, which is six months before it arrives at a state of -perfection. They are distinguished by the yellowish colour of the -latter, and the perfectly white colour of the former. The disadvantage -attending these roots, is, that they cannot be kept above four or five -days before they become very black, when they are considered unfit for -use. Starch is made from them in considerable quantities, by the usual -method of bruising, and subjecting them to fermentation, in order to -separate the farina. The mandioc, a variety of this genus, is unknown on -the western side of the Continent: thus all danger of injury from its -poisonous qualities is precluded.</p> - -<p>Several varieties of the potatoe are cultivated and yield very abundant -crops. They appear to have been known in this part of the New World -before it was visited by the Spaniards, and not to have been confined to -Chile, their native country. I found this probability on their having a -proper name in the Quichua language, whilst those plants that have been -brought into the country retain among the Indians their Spanish names -alone.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p><p><i>Camotes</i>, commonly called sweet potatoes, and by the Spaniards -<i>batatas</i>, are produced in great abundance, of both the yellow and -purple kinds. I have seen them weighing ten pounds each; when roasted or -boiled their taste is sweeter than that of the chesnut, and all classes -of people eat them. They become much more farinaceous if exposed for -some time to the sun after they are taken out of the ground; and if kept -dry they will remain good for six months. They are propagated by setting -pieces of the branches of old plants, to procure which the camote itself -is sometimes planted.</p> - -<p>Although the <i>arracacha</i> which is grown in this valley is neither so -large nor so well tasted as that which is produced in a cooler climate, -it is nevertheless an exceedingly good esculent. It is cultivated in a -rich, loose soil, and has generally five or six roots, something like -parsnips, but of a different flavour; they are not very mealy, and -require but little cooking; they are, however, very easy of digestion, -on which account they are given to the sick and convalescent; the leaves -bear a great resemblance to those of celery. The plantation is either -from cuttings of the root, like potatoes, or from the seed; in the first -case the roots are full grown in three months, but in the latter in not -less than five. If allowed to remain in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> ground double the time -mentioned the roots continue to increase in size, without any detriment -to their taste. Starch is sometimes made from the roots, and used in the -same manner as the arrow root is in other countries. Only the white -arracacha is here cultivated. The arracacha deserves the attention of -Europeans; it would, I am pretty certain, prosper in England, because -its natural temperature, where it thrives best, is in about 60° of -Fahrenheit.</p> - -<p>The <i>tomate</i>, love apple, is very much cultivated, and is in frequent -use both in the kitchen and for confectionary, and produces a very -agreeable acid.</p> - -<p>Capsicum, cayenne pepper, <i>aji</i>, is abundant; I have counted nine -different sorts, the largest, <i>rocotos</i>, about the size of a turkey's -egg, and the smallest, which is the most pungent, not thicker than the -quill of a pigeon's feather; the quantity of this spice used in America -is enormous; I have frequently seen a person, particularly among the -indians, eat as a relish, twenty or thirty pods, with a little salt and -a piece of bread. One kind called <i>pimiento dulce</i> is made into a very -delicate salad, by roasting the pods over hot embers, taking away the -outer skin, and the seeds from the inside, and seasoning with salt, oil, -and vinegar.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span></p><p>It is rather a surprising fact, that manure is never used on the farms -or plantations. The astonishing fertility of the soil, which has been -under cultivation for upwards of three hundred years, and produced -luxuriant annual crops, appears to be supported by the turbid water from -the mountains, during the rainy season, with which it is irrigated. This -water, like that of the Nile, leaves on the ground a slimy film, which -is said to contain a considerable quantity of animal matter.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Viceroys and Archbishops of Lima....Viceroyalty, -Extent....Viceroy's Titles and Privileges....Royal -Audience....Cabildo....Forms of Law....Military....Religion....Inquisition....Sessions -and Processes....Archbishop....Royal Patronage....Ecclesiastical Tribunals....Chapter, <i>Cabildo -Ecclesiastico</i>....Curates....Asylum of Immunity....Minor -Tribunals....<i>Consulado</i>....Crusade....Treasury, -Accompts....<i>Temporalidades</i>, <i>Protomedicato</i>.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Lima is the metropolitan, and the richest city of South America. Under -the Spanish regime it has been the residence of forty-three Viceroys, -counting from Don Francisco Pizarro to the present Don Jose de la Serna, -who abandoned the capital in 1821, when the patriot army entered. It -also enumerates nineteen archbishops, from Don Fray Geronimo de Loaisa, -who arrived in 1540, to Don Bartolome Maria de las Heras, who was -compelled by General San Martin to retire in 1821.</p> - -<p>In the list of Viceroys we find four grandees of Spain, two titled -princes, one archbishop, one bishop, and three licentiates; the rest -were military officers, but none of them Americans. Among the -archbishops is Saint Thoribio de Mogroviejo, who was presented in 1578, -and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> in the exercise of his ecclesiastical duties was so unremitting, -that he visited his extensive diocese three times, and confirmed upwards -of a million of persons, one of whom was Saint Rose of Lima. He died in -1606, and was canonized by Benedict XIII. in 1727.</p> - -<p>The Viceroyalty of Peru formerly extended from the south confines of -Mexico to those of Chile, including all the Spanish possessions in South -America, and what the Spaniards call meridional America. The Viceroyalty -of Santa Fe de Bogotá was separated from Peru, and established in 1718; -that of Buenos Ayres in 1777.</p> - -<p>The titles of the Viceroy of Peru were His Excellency Don ——, Viceroy -and Captain-general of Peru, President of the Royal Audience, -Superintendent Subdelegate of the Royal Finances, Posts and -Temporalities, Director-general of the Mining Tribunal, Governor of -Callao, Royal Vice-patron, &c.</p> - -<p>As Viceroy he was the immediate representative of the King, and -answerable to him alone as President of the Council of Indies, <i>Consejo -de Indias</i>: to which tribunal all complaints and appeals were directed, -as well as the residential reports. Petitions of every description were -presented directed or addressed to him, for the despatch of which he was -assisted by a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> legal adviser, called <i>asesor general</i>, whose written -report was generally confirmed by the sub-signature of the Viceroy, but -from these there was an appeal to the Royal Audience. It has been the -custom of the Viceroys to appoint an hour in the morning, and another in -the afternoon, for receiving personally from the hands of the -petitioners papers addressed to them; but the secretary's office was -always open for such documents.</p> - -<p>In his quality of Captain-general he was charged with all political -affairs, those relating to fortification, and the defence of the country -by land and sea, for which purpose the whole of the military and naval -departments were subject to his immediate orders; but in cases of -emergency he usually called a <i>junta de guerra</i>, council of war. All -courts martial were held by his orders, and their sentences required his -confirmation before they were put in execution, but if he chose he could -refer the whole to the revision of the <i>consejo de guerra permanente</i>, -in Spain.</p> - -<p>In the capacity of President of the Royal Audience the Viceroy assisted -at the sittings whenever he pleased, and entered at any hour which he -thought proper during a session. When he proposed to assist in state, he -announced his intention, and a deputation of the judges attended him -from his palace to the hall;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> on his arrival at the door the porter -called aloud, the president! when all the attorneys, advocates and -others met and conducted him to his chair; the judges continued standing -until he was seated and nodded permission for them to resume their -seats. The session being finished, all the members of the audience, -regent, judges, <i>oidores</i>, and fiscal, accompanied him to the door of -his apartment in the palace, the regent walking on his left, and the -other members preceding him two and two. The presidency of the audience -was merely honorary, as the president had neither a deliberative nor a -consulting voice, but all sentences of the tribunal must have had his -signature, which may be called the <i>veto</i>, before they could be put in -execution. On the arrival of any new laws, royal ordinances, or -schedules, the Viceroy was summoned by the tribunal to the hall of -accords, <i>sala de acuerda</i>, where they were presented to him, and the -ceremony of obedience to them performed by his kissing the King's -signature and then laying the paper on his head, which act was recorded -by the <i>escribano de camara</i>.</p> - -<p>The Viceroy, as President of the Royal Audience made a private report -annually to the King, through the Council of Indies, of the public and -even of the private characters of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> members of the tribunal. He could -also direct secret inquiries respecting any member whose conduct might -have excited suspicion.</p> - -<p>All presidents of audiences, as well as the members, were forbidden to -marry within the boundaries of their jurisdiction without the express -permission of the King; they were likewise prohibited all commercial -concerns, possession of personal property, becoming godfathers to -infants, and even visiting any private family. The Marquis of Aviles, -Viceroy of Lima, was, before his appointment, married to a native of -Lima, but he was never known to visit any of her relatives; however, -Abascal, Marquis de la Concordia, judging it to be a prudent and -conciliatory measure to break through this restriction during the -unquiet times of his government, visited different families, and -attended at several public feasts, giving others in return.</p> - -<p>At the expiration of five years, the term for which viceroys, governors, -&c. were appointed, and on the arrival of a successor, a commissioner, -generally a judge, was nominated by the King, to take what was termed -<i>la residencia</i>. Six months were allowed for all persons who considered -themselves aggrieved to lay before this commissioner a full statement of -their case, and at the termination of the six months the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> whole of the -papers which had been presented were forwarded to the Council of Indies -for the inspection of that tribunal.</p> - -<p>As Superintendent Subdelegate merely placed the Viceroy above all the -tribunals, he had no other authority over them, except, indeed, the -nomination of the higher officers, who had afterwards to obtain a -confirmation from the King; or of confirming the lower officers -nominated by their superior ones. It may be considered an honorary -distinction, except that of royal financier, as such he presided -quarterly at the general passing of accounts and inspection of -treasures.</p> - -<p>As Royal Vice-patron all collated benefices required his confirmation. -The Archbishop proposed to him three individuals, and it generally -happened that the first on the list received the confirmation; but this -was optional in the Vice-patron, who could confirm any one of those whom -he chose. This prerogative was often the cause of serious disputes -between the Viceroy and the Archbishop. As Governor-general of Callao, -he visited its fortifications twice a year, for which he had an -additional sum of five hundred dollars for each visit. His whole salary -amounted to sixty-one thousand dollars.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span></p><p>The Royal Audience of Lima was established in 1541, and composed of a -President, Regent, eight Oidores or Members, two Fiscals, (one civil, -the other criminal) <i>Relatores</i>, Reporters, <i>Escribanos</i>, Scriveners or -Recorders, Porters, and an <i>Alguacil Mayor</i>, also two <i>Alcaldes de -Corte</i>. The official costume of the regent and members was a black under -dress with white laced cuffs over those of the coat, a black robe or -cloak with a cape about three quarters of a yard square, generally of -velvet, called the toga; and a collar or ruff having two corners in -front; this was black and covered with white lace or cambric: a small -trencher cap, carried in their hands, completed their costume. When -divested of their robes they bore a gold-headed cane or walking-stick -with large black silk tassels and cord, which was the insignia of a -magistrate, or of any one in command, and called the <i>baton</i>.</p> - -<p>The sessions of the audience were held every day, excepting holidays, -from nine o'clock in the morning till twelve; and here all cases both -civil and criminal were tried, either by the whole of the members or by -committees, and there was no appeal, except in some few cases, to the -Consejo de Indias. The audience was a court of appeal from any other -authority, even<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> from the ecclesiastical courts, by a <i>recurso de -fuersa</i>; but all its sentences required the signature of the Viceroy or -President; for the obtaining of which, an escribano de camara waited on -his excellency every day with all those papers that had received the -signatures of the audience and required to be signed by him. Papers -addressed to the audience were headed with <i>mui poderoso señor</i>, most -potent lord; and the title of the members in session was highness, -<i>altesa</i>, individually that of lordship, <i>senoria</i>.</p> - -<p>The Cabildo of Lima had two <i>Alcaldes Ordinarios</i>, twelve <i>Regidores</i>, a -<i>Sindico Procurador</i>, a Secretary, an <i>Alguacil Mayor</i> and a legal -Advisor called the <i>Asesor</i>. The Cabildo appointed out of its own -members a Justice of Police, <i>Jues de Policia</i>; a <i>Jues de Aguas</i>, who -decided in all questions respecting the water-works belonging to the -city and suburbs; also a <i>Fiel Egecutor</i>, for examining weights and -measures. The Royal Ensign, <i>Alferes Real</i> was another member <i>de -oficio</i>, appointed by the King, who held in his possession the royal -standard, (the same that was brought by Pizarro) which was carried by -the alferes real, accompanied by the Viceroy, a deputation from the -audience, another from the Cabildo, including the two alcaldes, and -others from the different corporate bodies, in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>solemn procession -through some of the principal streets of the city, on the 8th of -January, being the anniversary of the foundation of Lima. The title of -alferes real was hereditary in the family of the Count of Monte Mar, y -Monte Blanco.</p> - -<p>The Viceroy was President of the Cabildo. The alcaldes had cognizance in -all causes cognizable by governors; their sentences had the same force, -and were carried by appeal to the audience.</p> - -<p>The forms of law in the Spanish tribunals were very complicated, tedious -and expensive. The escribano wrote down all declarations, accusations, -and confessions, and the courts decided on the merits of the case -according to what was read to them by the <i>relator</i> from the writings -presented; the client, if in prison, not being admitted to hear his own -cause. The tribunals, or judges very reluctantly deprived a man of his -life, but they had no regard to his personal liberty; even a supposition -of criminality was sufficient to incarcerate an individual, perhaps for -years, during which he had not the power to prove himself innocent. From -the facility of imprisonment it was not considered a disgrace, and a -prisoner often received visits from his friends in a jail, which he -returned as a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>matter of politeness when liberated. I saw prisoners here -who had been incarcerated for twenty years, some for murder; their -causes were not then and probably never would be finished till death -stepped in.</p> - -<p>The Viceroy visited all the prisons on the Friday before Easter, and two -days before Christmas, when he discharged some persons who were confined -for petty crimes. A surgeon and one of the <i>alcaldes</i> visited the -prisons every day, which visits produced much good; the alcalde <i>de -corte</i> examined their food two or three times a week, and attended to -any complaints respecting the internal arrangements made by the -<i>alcaide</i>, jailor.</p> - -<p>Of the military, not only those who were in actual service, but the -militia, and persons who had held military rank, and had retired, were -tried by their particular laws, or court martials. This exemption was -called <i>fuero</i>, but its enjoyment was not equally extended. The private, -the corporal, and the serjeant might be tried, condemned and executed, -but the sentence of an officer required the confirmation of the -Captain-general, and in some cases the approbation of the King.</p> - -<p>The Roman Catholic religion was established here in the same manner as -in all the Spanish dominions, all sectaries being excluded. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> -inexorable tribunal for the protection of the former, and for the -persecution of the latter, held its sessions in Lima, and was one of the -three instituted in South America, the other two being at Mexico and -Carthagena.</p> - -<p>Much has been written at different times respecting this <i>Tribunal de la -Fe</i>, tribunal of faith, and much more has been said about it, in -opposition to the old Spanish adage, <i>de Rey e Inquisicion—chiton</i>, of -the King and the Inquisition—not a word. The primitive institution was -entirely confined to adjudge matters strictly heretical, but it soon -assumed cognizance of civil and political affairs, becoming at the same -time the stay of the altar, and the prop of the throne.</p> - -<p>All the sessions of the Inquisition being inaccessible, and the persons -tried, consulted, or called in as evidence having been sworn to keep -secret every thing which they should hear, see, or say, has, in a great -measure, deprived the public of any knowledge respecting what transpired -in its mysterious proceedings.</p> - -<p>This tribunal could condemn to fine, confiscation, banishment, or the -flames. Since its erection in 1570, not fewer than forty individuals -have been sentenced to the latter punishment, from which one hundred and -twenty have escaped by recantation. The last who suffered was a female -of the name of Castro, a native of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> Toledo, in Spain. She was burnt in -the year 1761. Formerly the portraits of those unfortunate individuals -who had been burnt were hung up, with the names annexed, in the passage -leading from the cathedral to the Sagrario, where also the names of -those who had recanted were exposed, having a large red cross on the -pannel, but no portrait. In the year 1812, as one of the results of the -promulgation of the constitution, this revolting exhibition was removed.</p> - -<p>The tribunal was composed of three Inquisitors and two secretaries, -called of despatch and of secret, <i>del despacho y del secreto</i>; -<i>alguasiles</i>, or bailiffs, porters, brothers of punishment, being lay -brothers of the order of Dominicans, whose duty it was to attend when -requested, and to inflict corporal punishment on the unhappy victims of -persecution. There were also brothers of charity, of the Hospitallery -order of Saint Juan de Dios, to whom the care of the sick was confided; -and both were sworn not to divulge what they had done or seen. Besides -these, a great number of commissaries were appointed by the inquisitors, -in the principal towns within their jurisdiction, for the purpose of -furnishing them with information on every matter denounced; also of -forwarding <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>accusations, processes, and persons accused, to the -tribunal. Qualifiers were elected, whose duty it was to spy out whatever -might appear to them offensive to religion, in books, prints or images; -they likewise reported to the tribunal their opinion of new -publications. These were wretches worse than slander, for not even the -secrets of the grave could escape them!</p> - -<p>All books, before they were offered for sale, must have had a permit -from the Inquisition; and if they were contained in the published list -of prohibited works, the possessor was obliged to go to a <i>calificador</i>, -qualifier, and deliver them to him; and should a person have known that -another had such books in his possession, it was his duty to denounce -the individual, whose house, through this circumstance, was subject to a -visit from those holy men. When such books were found, the owner became -amenable to any punishment which these arbitrary priests might think -proper to inflict. The punishment was generally a fine, which was of the -greatest utility to the judges, because all the salaries were paid out -of fines and confiscations, and a stipend arising from a canonry in each -cathedral within their jurisdiction. It was often said by the people, -that some books were prohibited because they were bad; others were bad, -because they were prohibited.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span></p><p>The inquisitors were secular priests, and distinguished from the others -by wearing a pale blue silk cuff, buttoned over that of the coat. They -were addressed as lords spiritual, and when speaking, although -individually, used the plural pronoun <i>we</i>.</p> - -<p>The inquisitorial power was never exercised over the Indians or negroes, -who were considered in the class of neophytes; but every other -individual, including the viceroy, archbishop, judges, prebends, &c. was -subject to its almost omnipotent authority.</p> - -<p>Lima was the see of a bishop from 1539 to 1541, when it was created an -archbishopric by Paul IV., being a suffragan to the mitre of Seville -till the year 1571. It was afterwards erected into a metropolitan, and -has for suffragans the bishops of</p> - -<table summary="archbishoprics"> - <tr> - <td class="left">Panamá</td> - <td>erected in </td> - <td>1533</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Cuzco</td> - <td class="center">"</td> - <td>1534</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Quito</td> - <td class="center">"</td> - <td>1545</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Santiago de Chile</td> - <td class="center">"</td> - <td>1561</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Conception de Chile</td> - <td class="center">"</td> - <td>1564</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Truxillo</td> - <td class="center">"</td> - <td>1577</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Guamanga</td> - <td class="center">"</td> - <td>1611</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Arequipa</td> - <td class="center">"</td> - <td>1611</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Cuenca</td> - <td class="center">"</td> - <td>1786</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Maynas</td> - <td class="center">"</td> - <td>1806</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>The two bulls of Alexander VI. of 1493 and 1501 gave to Ferdinand and -Isabella the entire<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> possession of those countries discovered, and that -might from time to time be discovered by them and their successors, in -America; and the pope, being <i>infallible</i> in his decrees, these bulls -deprived the see of Rome of all direct influence in the Spanish -colonies, and gave to the Kings of Spain the right of repulsing any -jurisdiction which the popes might attempt to exercise there. Thus any -decree, mandate, bull, or commission from the pope required the sanction -of royal approbation before it was valid in this country; and even for -the prevention of what were termed reserved cases, the Kings took care -to obtain extensive privileges for the archbishops and bishops. All -briefs, bulls, dispensations, indulgences, and other pontifical acts -were sent from Rome to the King; and the Council of Indies had the -exclusive examination, admission or rejection of them, as they might -consider them advantageous or injurious to the royal prerogative in the -colonies.</p> - -<p>The right of patronage belonged exclusively to the King; he had the -presentation to all archbishoprics and bishoprics, and every other -office even to the lowest was filled by the royal will. The presentation -to vicarages, curacies, chaplainries, &c. was delegated to the Viceroy, -as Vice-patron; and if any dispute should arise<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> respecting the due -exercise of this delegated authority, it was carried before the Council -of Indies, which was authorized to regulate any such controversies. This -entirely deprived the pope of all interfering power; indeed he enjoyed -no other right than that of granting bulls, briefs, &c. when they were -requested, and of deciding in cases of conscience, when they were -submitted to him by the Council of Indies.</p> - -<p>All bishops and other beneficed priests rendered to the King, as patron, -the entire rent of their benefice for one year; it was called the -<i>annata</i>, and was paid in six annual instalments. The revenue of the -mitres was derived from the tithes; two ninths of which belonged to the -King, one fourth to the mitre and the remainder was applied to the other -ministers of the gospel, both of the choir and collated benefices. For -the security of the royal privileges, every bishop made oath, before he -took possession of his see, that he would respect the royal patronage, -and never oppose the exercise of its rights.</p> - -<p>The archbishop had his ecclesiastical tribunal, and so had all bishops -in the Spanish colonies. It was composed of himself, as president, the -fiscal, and provisor vicar general. All ordinary sentences were given by -the provisor, the president's signature being subjoined; but all -important cases were judged by the archbishop.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span></p><p>The jurisdiction of this tribunal embraced all causes spiritual, such -as orders, marriages, divorces, legitimations, pious legacies, -monastical portions or dowries, with the defence and preservation of the -immunities of the church, and contentious disputes between the members -of the church, as well as those preferred by laymen against priests. All -who had received holy orders enjoyed the <i>fuero ecclesiastico</i>, and all -criminal complaints against the clergy must be laid before the -ecclesiastical tribunal, but there was an appeal to the royal audience, -as has been mentioned, by a <i>recurso de fuersa</i>.</p> - -<p>Suits instituted in an ecclesiastical court were equally as tedious and -expensive as those of a secular one.</p> - -<p>Five provincial councils have been held here for the regulation of -church discipline. The two first were held in 1551 and 1567 by Don Fray -Geronimo de Loaisa, and the other three in 1582, 1591, and 1601, by -Saint Thoribio de Mogroviejo.</p> - -<p>The provincial of each monastic order was the prelate, or head of the -order; he judged, in the first instance, of any misdemeanour committed -by the individuals wearing the habit; he also inflicted corporal as well -as spiritual punishments; besides ordering temporal privations, on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> -which account monasteries were not subject to the ordinary.</p> - -<p>The chapter, or <i>cabildo ecclesiastico</i>, of Lima had a dean, a subdean, -a magisterial canon, a doctoral, a penitentiary and a treasurer; six -prebendaries, four canons, six demi-proporcionaries, <i>medio racioneros</i>, -and for the service of the choir four royal chaplains, two choral -chaplains, a master of ceremonies, besides chaunters, musicians, -<i>monacillos</i>, who served at the altar; porters, beadles, &c. The -prebendaries and canons were distinguished from other clergymen by -wearing white lace or cambric cuffs.</p> - -<p>In the Spanish colonies the care of souls was confided to rectoral -curates, who officiated in parishes where the population was principally -Spanish or white creoles; they received a stipend out of the tithes, and -from their parishioners they were entitled to the firstlings, -<i>primicias</i>, which consisted of one bushel of grain of each description, -harvested by each separate individual, if the quantity harvested -exceeded seven bushels; but no more than one was exacted, however great -the quantity of grain might be. For animals and fruits they generally -compounded with their parishioners. They were also paid for baptisms, -marriages<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> and funerals; besides which they had perquisites arising from -church feasts, masses, &c.</p> - -<p>The doctrinal curates were those destined to towns or parishes the -population of which was composed chiefly of indians; they had fewer -perquisites, and received nothing for baptisms, marriages, or funerals, -but a sum established by the synod, which was very small. They had -however a stipend assigned them by the King, which they got from the -treasury: it seldom exceeded 500 dollars.</p> - -<p>The missionaries enjoyed curial and apostolical privileges in their -villages, or reductions; they were of the order of Franciscans, who at -the extinction of the Jesuits filled all the missions vacated by this -death-blow to the advancement of Christianity among the unchristianized -tribes of indians in South America.</p> - -<p>The election of curates took place about every four years, and was -called the <i>concurso</i>, at which time all those possessed of benefices, -and who wished to be removed, presented themselves; having first -obtained permission from the archbishop, and left another clergyman in -charge of their parish. The archbishop and four <i>examinadores</i> examined -them in Latin and theological points, and either approved or <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>reproved -them. If the former, an allegation of merits and services was presented, -without any expression of inclination to any particular parish, and -after all the examinations were ended the archbishop nominated three -individuals to each of the third class or richest livings. These -nominations were forwarded to the Vice-patron, who confirmed one of each -three, and presented him with the benefice, returning immediately the -two remaining ones. Out of these, other nominations were made for the -second class, and then sent for confirmation. The returns furnished -names for the first or lowest class. The archbishop could appoint, on -the death of a curate, any priest to fill the vacancy pro tempore -without the confirmation of the Vice-patron.</p> - -<p>All persons who received holy orders must possess a sufficient <i>congrua</i> -to support them decently, if not, they were ordained by a title of -adscription, by which the archbishop could attach them to any curacy as -assistants or coadjutors.</p> - -<p>No curate or priest could enjoy two livings or benefices, nor absent -himself under any pretence from the one he held without an express -permission from the vicar-general; none could appear as evidence in -cases where there was a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> possibility of the culprits being sentenced to -death, and they were expressly prohibited from interfering, either -directly or indirectly, as magistrates. It is certainly to be regretted, -that in all parts of the world, I mean the Christian world, the same -laws are not established; for what ought to be more dear to a shepherd -than his flock; but alas! many take charge of it for the sake of the -fleece, and for that only.</p> - -<p>Some of the popes, imagining in their ardour of usurpation, that they -should increase the sanctity of the Church by elevating it above the -reach of the law, barred its doors against the civil magistracy, and -made it the refuge of outlaws; thus mistaking pity for piety, Christian -forgiveness for religious protection: hence the temple was opened to the -murderer, his hands still reeking with the blood of his fellow citizen, -and closed against the minister of justice, whose duty it was to avenge -the crime; as if God had established his church for the protection of -vices in this world, which he has threatened with eternal punishment in -the next.</p> - -<p>Spain, either through fear or as the bigot of ancient customs, maintains -her asylums on the plan to which Charlemagne reduced them in France in -the eighth century. By the request of the King a bull was issued, dated -12th Sept.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> 1772, limiting the place of immunity throughout the Spanish -dominions to one church in each smaller town, and to two in large -cities; the Sagrario and San Larazo enjoyed this privilege in Lima.</p> - -<p>The immunity of the church protected a man who had killed another by -chance or in his own defence; but if he had been guilty of murder, or -had maliciously wounded a person so as to cause his death, it delivered -him over to the civil authorities at their request. The commission of a -crime in the church or its dependencies precluded immunity, which was -also withheld from persons convicted of high treason, although they -might take refuge in a privileged church; from those suspected of -heresy; heretics; jews; forgers of royal or apostolic letters or -patents; the defrauders of any bank or public treasury; false coiners of -coin current in the country; violaters of churches, or destroyers of -church property; persons who escaped from prison, from the officers of -justice, from exile, public labours or the galleys; blasphemers; -sorcerers; the excommunicated; debtors and thieves.</p> - -<p>Thus it appears, that immunity was available only in cases of -manslaughter; but if the person accused had been guilty of murder, -before<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> it could be proved against him, he generally took care to make -his escape and elude the punishment. The same may be said of the greater -number of the instances to which immunity was denied; for few suffered, -like Joab, after having taken hold of the horns of the altar.</p> - -<p>The other tribunals in Lima were <i>el Consulado</i>, or the Board of -Commerce, founded in 1613. It had a prior and two consuls, who decided -in all mercantile affairs; they had an <i>asesor</i> or legal adviser, -secretary, notary and porters; the Tribunal of the Holy Crusade, founded -in 1574, for the promulgation of the pope's bulls, and collection of -this part of the royal revenue; the Royal Treasury, established in 1607, -for the receipt of all treasure appertaining to the crown, and the -payment of all persons in the employ of the government; the Tribunal of -General Accompts; that of Temporalities, for recovering the value or -rents of the possessions and property of the ex Jesuits; and, lastly, -the Tribunal of the <i>Protomedicato</i>, for the examination of students in -medicine and surgery: it was composed of a president, a fiscal and two examiners.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Taxes, Alcavala....Indian Tribute....Fifths of the -Mines....Lances....Stamped Paper....Tobacco....<i>Media -Anata</i>....<i>Aprovechamientos</i>.... <i>Composicion and Confirmacion</i> of -Lands....Royal Ninths....Venal -Offices....Estrays....Confiscations....Fines....Vacant -Successions....<i>Almoxarifasgo</i>....<i>Corso</i>....<i>Armada</i>....Consulate....<i>Cirquito</i>....Vacant -Benefices....<i>Mesada Ecclesiastica</i>....<i>Media Anata Ecclesiastica</i>....Restitutions....Bulls.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The system of taxation in the Spanish colonies was as complicated as -their law suits in the courts of justice, and the ingenuity of the -theory practised in the exchequer can only be equalled by the -resignation of the people to the practice. The <i>alcavala</i> was the most -ancient and most productive tax in the colonies; it was granted by the -Cortes to the King of Spain, in 1342, to defray the expenses of the war -against the Moors. At that time it was rated at five per cent., but in -the year 1366 it was increased to ten per cent. The order for the -collection of this tax in Peru was issued in 1591; it was first fixed -here at two per cent., and afterwards increased, according to the -exigences of the state, and the submission of the people, to six and a -half per cent.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span></p><p>This tax was levied on every sale and resale of moveable and immoveable -property; all merchandize, manufactured produce, animals, buildings, in -fine, all kinds of property were liable to this impost the moment they -were brought into the market, and all contracts specified its payment. -Retail dealers generally compounded according to their stock and -presumed sale, and were compelled to abide by the composition.</p> - -<p>Those indians who became subject to the law of conquest, that is, all -whose forefathers did not voluntarily resign themselves to the Spanish -authorities, and solicit a curate, without causing any expense to be -incurred in their discovery or subjection, paid an annual tribute from -the age of eighteen to fifty. This tribute varied very much in different -provinces; some paying seven dollars and a half a year, others only two -and a half. An indian might redeem his tribute by advancing a certain -sum, proportionate to his age and the annual tribute. The tax was -collected by the <i>subdelegados</i>, governors of districts, who were -allowed six per cent. on the sum gathered, according to the tribute -roll, which was renewed every five years by a commissioner called the -<i>visitador</i>. This direct tax was more irksome to the people than any -other, and caused much general discontent,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> although those who paid it -enjoyed privileges more than equal to the impost.</p> - -<p>All metals paid to the King a fifth, for the collection of which proper -officers and offices were established. Gold in its native state was -carried to the royal foundry, <i>casa real de fundicion</i>, where it was -reduced to ingots, each of which was assayed and marked, its quality and -weight being specified; after which the fifth was paid, and then it was -offered for sale. Silver was also taken in its pure state, called -<i>piña</i>, and it was contraband to sell it until it had been melted, and -each bar marked in the same manner as the gold. Base metals were subject -to a similar impost, but reduced to bars by the miners, who afterwards -paid the fifth.</p> - -<p>Titles paid an annual fine of five hundred dollars each to the King, -unless the person in possession redeemed it by paying ten thousand -dollars. This tax, although unproductive in some parts, was worthy of -attention in Lima, where there were sixty-three titled personages, -marquises, counts and viscounts.</p> - -<p>All judicial proceedings in the different courts of justice, civil, -criminal, military and ecclesiastical; all agreements, testimonies, and -public acts, were required to be on stamped paper, according to a royal -order dated in 1638. It<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> was stamped in Spain, bearing the date of the -two years for which it was to serve, or was considered to be in force; -after which term it was of no use. The surplus, if any, was cut through -the stamp, and sold as waste paper, and the court took care to supply -another stock for the two succeeding years. If the court neglected to do -this, the old paper was restamped by order of the Viceroy, bearing a fac -simile of his signature. There were four sorts of this paper, or rather -paper of four prices. That on which deeds and titles were written, or -permissions and pardons granted, cost six dollars the sheet; that used -for contracts, wills, conveyances and other deeds drawn up before a -notary, one dollar and a half; that on which every thing concerning a -course of law before the Viceroy or Audience was conducted, half a -dollar; and for writings presented by soldiers, slaves, paupers and -indians, the fourth class was used, and cost the sixteenth of a dollar -each sheet. The first sheet of the class required in any memorial or -document, according to the foregoing rules, was of that price, but the -remainder, if more were wanted, might be of the fourth class or lowest -price, or even of common writing paper.</p> - -<p>Tobacco was a royal monopoly, a price being fixed by the government on -the different<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> qualities of this article, according to the province in -which it was grown; at such price the whole was paid for; after which it -was brought to Lima, where it was sold at an established rate at the -<i>estanco</i>, or general depôt. If any person either bought or sold tobacco -without a license, confiscation of the article and a heavy fine were the -result, and frequently the whole property of the offender became a -forfeit. On an average, the King purchased it at three reals, three -eighths of a dollar, per pound, and sold it again at two dollars; but -such was the number of officers employed to prevent smuggling, collect -the tobacco, and attend the estanco, that, on the whole, the revenue -suffered very considerably, although the profit was so great. Snuff was -not allowed to be manufactured in Peru; one kind called <i>polvillo</i> was -brought from Seville, and rappee from the Havanna; but both were -included in the royal monopoly. To secure the tax imposed on tobacco, no -one could cultivate it without express permission from the Director; -and, on delivery, the planter was obliged to make oath as to the number -of plants which he had harvested; also that he had not reserved one leaf -for his own use, nor for any other purpose. This tyrannical monopoly -produced more hatred to the Spanish<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> government than all the other -taxes. Not only every tobacco planter, but every consumer joined in -execrating so disagreeable an impost.</p> - -<p>The <i>media anata</i>, or moiety of the yearly product of all places or -employments under government, was paid into the treasury, or rather -reserved out of the stipend when the payment was made by the treasury. -This moiety was deducted for the first year only, and if the individual -were promoted to a more lucrative situation, he again paid the surplus -of his appointment for one year.</p> - -<p><i>Aprovechamientos</i>, or profits, were, in seized goods, the excess of -their valuation over their sale, which excess was paid into the treasury -so that the King took the goods as they were appraised by <i>his -officers</i>, and appropriated to himself the profit of the public sale.</p> - -<p>Composition and confirmation of lands were the produce arising from the -sale of lands belonging to the crown, and the duty paid by the purchaser -for the original title deeds.</p> - -<p>The royal ninths, <i>novenos reales</i>, were the one ninth of all the tithes -collected: the amount was paid into the treasury. Tithes were -established in America by an edict of Charles V. dated the 5th of -October, 1501. They were at first applied wholly to the support of the -church; but in 1541 it was ordained that they should be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> divided into -four parts; one to be given to the bishop of the diocese, one to the -chapter, and out of the remainder two ninths should belong to the crown, -three for the foundation of churches and hospitals, and four ninths for -the support of curates and other officiating ecclesiastics. This -distribution was afterwards altered, and the seven ninths of the moiety -were applied to the latter purpose. The tithe on sugar, cocoa, coffee -and other agricultural productions which required an expensive process -before they were considered as articles of commerce paid only five per -cent.; but ten per cent. was rigorously exacted on all produce and -fruits which did not require such a process. Tobacco, being a royal -monopoly, paid no tithes.</p> - -<p>All offices in the <i>cabildos</i>, excepting those of the two <i>alcaldes</i>; -those of notaries, <i>escribanos</i>, receivers and recorders of the -audience, paid a fine to the King on his appointment, in proportion to -the value of the office, but the incumbent was allowed to sell his -appointment, on certain conditions established by law, which conditions, -however, almost debarred any person from being a purchaser.</p> - -<p>All property found was to be delivered to the solicitor of the treasury; -and if it remained one year unclaimed it was declared to belong<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> to the -crown. All contraband or confiscated property paid to the King the -duties which would have been paid had the commodity been regularly -imported or exported; after which the value produced by sale, the -<i>aprovechamiento</i> being deducted, was divided among the informer, the -captors, the intendant, the Council of Indies and the King. Fines -imposed as penalties in the different courts of justice belonged to the -crown, and were paid into the treasury. The property of any person dying -intestate appertained to the King. The revenue arising from commerce was -exacted under a great many heads, and was as complicated a system as the -rest of the Spanish proceedings, which appeared to be directed to the -employment of a number of officers and the diminution of finance.</p> - -<p>The <i>almoxarifasgo</i> was paid on whatever was either shipped or landed; -on entering any Spanish port five per cent. was paid, on going out, two -per cent.</p> - -<p>The <i>corso</i> was levied on entry as well as departure, being in both -cases two per cent. The duty called <i>armada</i> was a tax established for -defraying the expenses incurred in the protection of vessels against -pirates; that of <i>corso</i> against enemies in time of war; but although -the former might not exist, and the latter have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> ceased, the tax was -still levied, in contradiction to the old rule, that the effect ceases -with the cause. The armada was four per cent. on entry, and two on -departure. The duty of the consulate was received at the maritime custom -houses, and the product accounted for to the tribunal; it was one per -cent. on entry, and one on departure.</p> - -<p>Besides the foregoing taxes, the tariff taxes were paid, the list of -which would be too long for insertion. In 1810 the Viceroy Abascal -issued a decree, by which British manufactured goods were permitted to -be brought across the Isthmus of Panama, and thence to Callao, on -condition of their paying a duty of thirty-seven and a half per cent., -called <i>el derecho de cirquito</i>, circuit duty, in addition to all the -other taxes. A merchant in Lima assured me, that having remitted thirty -thousand dollars to Jamaica, to be employed in the purchase of cotton -goods, the expenses of freight, the porterage, and the duties together -amounted to forty-two thousand three hundred and seventy-five dollars by -the time the goods were warehoused in Lima.</p> - -<p>Among the ecclesiastical contributions to the state were major and minor -vacancies, which were the rents of vacant bishoprics, prebendaries and -canonries; these rents were paid into<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> the treasury until the new -dignitary was appointed, and took possession of his benefice.</p> - -<p>The <i>mesada ecclesiastica</i> was the amount of the first month, or the -twelfth part of the annual income of each rector after his presentation -to a new benefice. This was estimated by the solicitor of the treasury, -and religiously exacted.</p> - -<p>The <i>media anata ecclesiastica</i> was the proceeds of the first six months -which the dignitaries and canons of the chapters paid out of the income -of their benefices. Restitution was the money which penitents delivered -to their confessors, being the amount of what they believed they had -defrauded the crown, by smuggling, or other unlawful practices. The name -of the restitutionist was kept a profound secret; all that the confessor -had to do was, to deliver the money he might receive to the collector at -the treasury. This was giving to Cæsar the things that are Cæsar's.</p> - -<p>The greatest amount of revenue which the King received from the church -arose from the sale of bulls; and of these there was a great variety. -Jovellanos says, in his description of the pope's bulls, "that they are -a periodical publication of the highest price, least value, meanest -type, and worst paper; all buy them, few read them, and none understand -them."</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span></p><p>The bulls were first granted by the popes as a kind of passport to -heaven to all those who died in the wars against infidels; they -contained most extraordinary dispensations, both with respect to -Christian duties in this world and to the punishment due to crimes in -the next; and although the crusades, and other wars that drove men to -heaven, or to some other place, at the point of the lance, or sword, had -ceased, yet the influence of the bulls in increasing the revenue was of -too great importance to the king for him to allow them to die with the -cause that gave them birth: their effects were too useful to be -renounced.</p> - -<p>According to the original terms of the bulls, no person could reap the -benefit unless he were actually serving in the war; afterwards he might -procure a substitute and remain secure at home; but now he can enjoy the -blessings of peace at a much cheaper rate. The bulls sold in South -America were, the general bull for the living, or of the holy crusade; -the bull of <i>lacticinios</i>, milk food; of <i>composicion</i>, accommodation; -and the bull for the dead.</p> - -<p>The general bull for the living retained its virtue in the hands of its -possessor for two years, at which period it expired, but the benefit -might be renewed by purchasing another. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> advantages derived from the -possession of this bull included generally all those of the other three -though not in so direct a manner; having this, no cases were reserved -for papal absolution; all kinds of vows might be released, excepting -those which would contribute more to the church by their fulfilment; -blasphemy was forgiven; any thing except flesh meat might be eaten on -fast days; and one day of fasting, one prayer repeated, or one good deed -done, was equal to fifteen times fifteen forties of fast days, prayers, -or good deeds done by the unlucky being who had not purchased this bull. -Nay more—the buying of two bulls conveyed to the purchaser a double -portion of privileges. The price of this precious paper varied according -to the rank of the sinful purchaser: a viceroy, captain-general of a -province, lieutenant-general of the army and their wives paid fifteen -dollars for each bull; archbishops, bishops, inquisitors, canons, dukes, -marquises, and all noblemen, also magistrates and many others, five -dollars each; every individual who was in possession of property to the -amount of 6000 dollars, paid one dollar and a half for his bull; and all -persons under this class enjoyed all the privileges conceded to the rich -and powerful, for two and a half reals, or five sixteenths, of a dollar -each.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span></p><p>The bull of <i>lacticinios</i>, or milk food, was issued for the benefit of -the clergy, they not being allowed by the general bull to eat such -dainties on fast days; but as the result did not answer the expectations -of the crown the commissary-general recommended the laity to purchase it -for the prevention of conscientious scruples. Archbishops, bishops, and -conventual prelates paid six; canons, dignitaries and inquisitors, paid -three; rectors and curates one and a half, and all other secular priests -one dollar for each bull. A celebrated Spanish writer, speaking of this -bull, says, "the holy father has only allowed them these dainties when -they can be procured, another bull is wanting to eat them at all events, -but for this purpose the bull of <i>composicion</i> may be made to answer."</p> - -<p>This bull of composition, or accommodation, is monstrous; for it gives -to the possessor of stolen property a quiet conscience and absolute -possession, on condition that he has stolen it evading the punishment -applicable by law; that he knows not the person whom he has robbed or -defrauded, and that the knowledge of this accommodating bull did not -induce him to commit the theft. Thus this papal pardon by accommodation -or agreement insures to a lawless villain a quiet possession of -property, the means<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> of acquiring which ought to have been rewarded by -the hangman! The possessor of the unlawfully acquired property fixed a -value on it, and purchased bulls to the amount of six per cent. on the -principal. Only fifty bulls could be purchased in one year by one -individual, but if he required more, he applied to the -commissary-general, whose indulgence might be purchased.</p> - -<p>The bull for the dead was a kind of safe conduct to paradise—the -masonic sign to Saint Peter for admission there, or a discharge from -purgatory, if the soul of the deceased had reached this place before the -bull was purchased, or if by some mishap the name of the individual had -not been written on it, or had been wrongly spelled. How unfortunate -must those pious Christians have been who lived, or rather who died at a -great distance from the bull vender, or who had not the means of -purchasing this pontifical passport; for every person must have one, the -article not being transferable, because this would injure the market; -but any person was allowed to purchase more than one and at any period -after the death of the person he wished to befriend, as its powerful -influence might be extended to the general benefit and alleviation of -souls in purgatory. Thus it is that piety when accompanied with money -has wonderful powers! All<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> persons included among the first class of -purchasers of the general bull paid six eighths of a dollar, six reals, -for one for the dead, if he belonged to this class, but if he were of -the fourth it only cost two reals, two eighths of a dollar.</p> - -<p>I shall not pretend to give an estimate of the sum produced by the -taxes, the jealousy of the Spaniards towards a foreigner being so great -that it would have been dangerous for me even to have inquired. The two -following items I obtained by chance:</p> - -<table summary="taxes"> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td></td> - <td><span class="smaller">DOLLARS.</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">The Custom House of Lima received </td> - <td>in 1805</td> - <td> 1592837-2½</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> Ditto</td> - <td>in 1810</td> - <td>1640324-4 </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Produce of bulls in the Commissary's}</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>office for the Viceroyalty of Peru}</td> - <td>in 1805</td> - <td>91021 </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> Ditto</td> - <td>in 1810</td> - <td>97340-2</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>City of Lima....Figure and -Division....Walls....Bridge....Houses....Churches....Manner of -Building....Parishes....Convents....Nunneries....Hospitals....Colleges....<i>Plasa Mayor</i>....Market....Interior of the -Viceroy's Palace....Ditto Archbishop's Ditto....Ditto Sagrario....Ditto Cathedral....Ditto Cavildo.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The figure of the city of Lima approaches to that of a semicircle, -having the river Rima for its diameter; it is two miles long from east -to west, and one and a quarter broad from the bridge to the wall; it is -chiefly divided into squares, the length of each side being 130 yards; -but in some parts approaching to the wall this regularity is not -preserved; all the streets are straight, and they are generally about 25 -feet wide; the place contains 157 <i>quadras</i>, being either squares or -parallelograms, with a few diagonal intersections towards the -extremities of the city.</p> - -<p>The wall which encloses Lima, except on the side bordering on the river, -is built of <i>adobes</i>, sun-dried bricks, each brick being twenty inches -long, fourteen broad and four thick; they are made of clay, and contain -a very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> large quantity of chopped straw: these bricks are considered as -better calculated than stone to resist the shocks of earthquakes, and -from their elasticity they would probably be found pretty tough in -resisting a cannonading; however, of this there is little risk. The -walls are on an average twelve feet high, with a parapet three feet on -the outer edge: they are about ten feet thick at the bottom, and eight -at the top, forming a beautiful promenade round two-thirds of the city. -The wall is flanked with thirty-four bastions, but without embrasures; -it has seven gates and three posterns, which are closed every night at -eleven o'clock, and opened again every morning at four. This wall of -enclosure more than of defence was built by the Viceroy Duke de la -Palata, and finished in the year 1685; it was completely repaired by the -Viceroy Marquis de la Concordia, in the year 1808. All the gateways are -of stone, and of different kinds of architecture; that called <i>de -maravillas</i>, leading towards the pantheon, is very much ornamented with -stucco work.</p> - -<p>At the south east extremity of the city is a small citadel called Santa -Catalina; in it are the artillery barracks, the military depôt, and the -armoury. It is walled round and defended by two bastions, having small -pieces of artillery.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> The Viceroy Pezuela being an officer of artillery, -and formerly commandant of the body guard at Lima, paid great attention -to the citadel, and expended considerable sums of money in altering and -repairing it during the time of his viceroyalty.</p> - -<p>The bridge leading from the city to the suburb called San Lazaro is of -stone; it has five circular arches, and piers projecting on each side; -those to the east are triangular next the stream, and those on the -opposite side are circular; on the tops are stone seats, to which a -number of fashionable people resort and chat away the summer evenings. -From eight to eleven o'clock, or even later, it is remarkably pleasant, -both on account of the quantity of people passing to and fro, and from -the river being at this season full of water. On the east side the water -falls from an elevated stone base about five feet high, and forms a -species of cascade, the sound of the falling water adding much to the -pleasure enjoyed during the cool evenings of a tropical climate. At the -south end of the bridge is a stone arch, crowned with small turrets and -stucco, having a clock and dial in the centre; the whole was built and -finished by the order of the Viceroy Marquis of Montes Claros, in the -year 1613.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span></p><p>The general aspect of the houses in Lima is novel to an Englishman on -his first arrival; those of the inferior classes have but one floor, and -none exceed two; the low houses have a mean appearance, too, from their -having no windows in front. If the front be on a line with the street -they have only a door, and if they have a small court-yard, patio, a -large heavy door opens into the street. Some of the houses of the richer -classes have simply the ground floor, but there is a patio before the -house, and the entrance from the street is through a heavy-arched -doorway, with a coach house on one side; over this is a small room with -a balcony and trellis windows opening to the street. Part of these -houses have neat green balconies in front, but very few of the windows -are glazed. Having capacious patios, large doors and ornamented trellis -windows, beside painted porticos and walls, with neat corridors, their -appearance from the street is exceedingly handsome. In some there is a -prospect of a garden through the small glazed folding doors of two or -three apartments; this garden is either real or painted, and contributes -very much to enliven the scenery. The patios, in summer, have large -awnings drawn over them,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> which produce an agreeable shade; but the flat -roofs, without any ornaments in front, present an appearance not at all -pleasing; if to this we add the sameness of the many dead walls of the -convents and nunneries, some of the streets must naturally look very -gloomy.</p> - -<p>Of the principal churches the fronts are elegant and the steeples more -numerous and more elevated than might be expected in a country so -subject to earthquakes as Peru. The architecture displayed in the -façades of these churches is more worthy of being called a peculiar -composite than any regular order; but in a great many instances this -peculiarity is pleasing: a particular description of them will be given -in the course of this work.</p> - -<p>The outer walls of the houses are generally built of adobes as far as -the first floor, and the division walls are always formed of canes, -plastered over on each side; this is called <i>quincha</i>: the upper story -is made first of a frame-work of wood; canes are afterwards nailed or -lashed with leather thongs on each side the frame-work; they are then -plastered over, and the walls are called <i>bajareque</i>. These additions so -considerably increase their bulk, that they seem to be composed of very -solid materials, both with respect to the thickness which they exhibit,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> -and the cornices and other ornaments which adorn them. Porticos, arches, -mouldings, &c. at the doorways are generally formed of the same -materials. Canes bound together and covered with clay are substituted -also for pillars, as well as other architectural ornaments, some of -which being well executed, and coloured like stone, a stranger at first -sight easily supposes them to be built of the materials they are -intended to imitate. The roofs being flat are constructed of rafters -laid across, and covered with cane, or cane mats, with a layer of clay -sufficient to intercept the rays of the sun, and to guard against the -fogs. Many of the better sort of houses have the roofs covered with -large thin baked bricks, on which the inhabitants can walk; these -asoteas, as they are called, are very useful, and are often overspread -with flowers and plants in pots; they also serve for drying clothes and -other similar purposes. Among the higher classes the ceilings are -generally of pannel work, ornamented with a profusion of carving; but -among the lower they are often of a coarse cotton cloth, nailed to the -rafters and whitewashed, or painted in imitation of pannel work. In -several of the meaner, however, the canes or cane mats are visible.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span></p><p>Some of the churches have their principal walls and pillars of stone; -others of adobes and bajareque; the towers are generally of the latter -work, bound together with large beams of Guayaquil wood; the spires are -commonly of wood work, cased over with planks, and painted in imitation -of stone; with mouldings, cornices and other ornaments, either of wood -or stucco.</p> - -<p>In large buildings of every description there is generally a great -proportion of timber, keeping up a connection from the foundation to the -roof; thus there is less danger from the shocks of earthquakes than if -they were built of brick or more solid materials; for the whole building -yields to the motion, and the foundation being combined with the roof -and other parts, the whole moves at the same time, and is not so easily -thrown down. I suggested to a friend in Lima the idea of placing between -every tenth layer of adobes one of long canes; this he put in practice, -and afterwards informed me, that it was considered a great improvement, -so much so, that he thought the plan would be generally adopted, -especially as it produced a saving of timber, which is a dear article; -had also the effect of preventing the walls from cracking by the shocks -of earthquakes, and was equal to that of rafters of wood or frame-work -and bajareque.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span></p><p>The city is divided into four parishes, the Sagrario, with three -rectors; Saint Ann, two; Saint Sebastian, two; Saint Marcelo, one. Here -are two chapels of ease, that of Saint Salvador in the parish of Saint -Ann, and that of the Orphans in the parish of the Sagrario. Over the -bridge are the suburbs of Saint Lazaro, with one rector, a curate at the -Cabesas and another at Carabaillo, five leagues from the city, beside -several chapels on the different plantations. In the Cercado there is a -parish of indians, founded by the Jesuits, and formerly under their -care.</p> - -<p>The convents are numerous. I shall first give a list of them, and -afterwards mention those that are individually worthy of notice.</p> - -<table summary="convents"> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ La casa grande.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">San Francisco</td> - <td>3 </td> - <td class="left">{ Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe </td> - <td class="left">} in the suburbs.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Recoleto de San Diego </td> - <td class="left">}</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ La casa grande.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Santo Domingo</td> - <td>4 </td> - <td class="left">{ Recoleta de la Magdalena. </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Santo Tomas, college for studies. </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Santa Rosa, hermitage. </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Casa grande.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">San Augustin</td> - <td>4 </td> - <td class="left">{ San Ildefonso, college for studies. </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Nuestra Señora de guia, for novices. </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Cercado, college, formerly of the Jesuits. </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Casa grande.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">La Merced</td> - <td>3 </td> - <td class="left">{ San Pedro Nolasco, college for studies. </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Recoleta de Belen. </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ San Pedro, formerly colegio maximo of the</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">San Pedro</td> - <td>1 </td> - <td class="left">{ Jesuits, now Oratorio de San Felipe Neri. </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados, formerly</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Desamparados</td> - <td>1 </td> - <td class="left">{ belonging to the Jesuits, now to the Oratorio </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ de San Felipe Neri. </td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Angonizantes, buena muerte.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">San Camilo</td> - <td>2 </td> - <td class="left">{ Recoleta, in the suburbs of San Lazaro.</td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">San Francisco</td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ San Francisco de Paula, minims, new.</td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> de Paula</td> - <td>2 </td> - <td class="left">{ Do. old, both in the suburbs of San Lazaro.</td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Nuestra Señora de Montserrat, hospicio of the</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">San Benedicto</td> - <td>1 </td> - <td class="left">{ Benedictine Monks.</td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Convalecencia of San Rafael.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">San Juan de Dios</td> - <td>2 </td> - <td class="left">{ Nuestra Señora del Carmen, on the road to Callao.</td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left"> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="left">{ Casa grande, outside the walls, for convalescents.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Bethlemitas</td> - <td>2 </td> - <td class="left">{ Incurables, inside the walls.</td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>The nunneries in Lima are La Encarnacion, La Concepcion, Santa Catalina, -Santa Clara, Las Trinitarias, El Carmen Alto, Santa Teresa, or Carmen -Baxo, Descalsos de San Jose, Capuchinas de Jesus Maria, Nasarenas, -Mercedarias, Santa Rosa, Trinitarias descalsas. El Praso, and Nuestra -Señora de Copacavana for indian ladies.</p> - -<p>The following are <i>beaterios</i>, houses of seclusians, which do not take -the monastic vows: Santa Rosa de Viterbo, Nuestra Señora del Patrocinio, -San Jose for women divorced from their husbands, and the Recogidas for -poor women, somewhat similar to the Magdalen Hospital in London.</p> - -<p>Each of these religious houses has a church or chapel, making in the -whole as follows:—</p> - -<table summary="religious houses"> - <tr> - <td class="left">Parish Churches</td> - <td>6</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Semi-parochias, chapels of ease</td> - <td>2</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Conventual Churches and Chapels </td> - <td>44</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td>—</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td>52</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td>==</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span></p><p>Besides these each hospital has a chapel; many of the convents also -have chapels attached to them: San Francisco has that of Los Dolores and -El Milagro, and several of the principal inhabitants have private -oratories, there being altogether upwards of one hundred places of -worship, supporting more than eight hundred secular and regular priests, -and about three hundred nuns, with a great number of lay brothers and sisters.</p> - -<p>Lima has the following hospitals, each appropriated to some peculiar -charity:—</p> - -<p>San Andres, for Spaniards and maniacs—Santa Ana, for indians—San -Bartolome, for negroes and African castes—San Pedro, for poor -ecclesiastics—El Espiritu Santo, for seamen—San Pedro Alcantara, for -females—La Caridad, for females—Bethlemitas, for females, opposite the -convent—San Lazaro, for lepers; in addition to the three already mentioned.</p> - -<p>The Colleges in Lima are:—Santo Toribio, an ecclesiastical -seminary—San Martin, afterwards San Carlos, now San Martin again, for -secular studies—Colegio del Principe, for Latin grammar and the sons of -indian caciques, besides the conventual colleges, where many of the -lower classes are taught Latin, and some branches of science, gratis, by -the friars.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span></p><p>The <i>plasa mayor</i>, principal square, stands nearly in the centre of the -city (the suburbs of San Lazaro being included) about 150 yards from the -bridge; on the north side stands the Viceroy's palace, having an -ornamented gateway in the centre, where the horse guards are stationed; -this front is 480 feet long: the lower part is divided into petty -pedlars' shops, filled with all kinds of wares, open in front, the doors -which enclose them being thrown back; so that those of one shop meet -those of two neighbouring ones, and all of them are generally adorned -with part of the stock in trade, hung on them for sale. Over these runs -a long gallery, with seats rising one above another, for the -accommodation of the inhabitants when there is any féte in the square; -on the top there is a railing, carved in imitation of balustrades. At -the north-west corner is a gallery for the family of the Viceroy, which -on days of ceremony was fitted up with green velvet hangings, ornamented -with gold lace and fringe; a state chair to correspond being placed for -his Excellency in the centre. It was here that the Viceroy Marquis de -Castel-forte presented himself to witness the death of the innocent -Fiscal Antequera, in 1726; here <span class="smcap">Lord Cochrane</span> stood, when the -independence of Lima was declared in 1821; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> from hence the medals -commemorative of that glorious day were distributed.</p> - -<p>On the east side is the cathedral, having a light ornamented façade, -with large folding doors in the centre and smaller ones on each side, -surmounted by a handsome balustrade and two steeples, each of which -contains a peal of fine-toned bells, a clock and dials. The entrance to -this rich building is by a flight of steps, the area being ten feet -above the level of the plasa. On the north side of the cathedral is the -Sagrario, with a very beautiful façade; and adjoining stands the -Archbishop's palace, which surpasses in appearance every other building -in the square. Green balconies, glazed, run along the front, on each -side of an arched gateway, which leads into the patio; but the lower -part is disgraced with small shops, the nearest one to the Sagrario -being a <i>pulperia</i>, grog shop! Under the area of the cathedral there is -also a range of small shops, one of which formerly belonged to Don -Ambrosio Higgins, who was a pedlar and failed. He afterwards went to -Chile, entered the army, obtained promotion, discovered the city of -Osorno, and was honoured with the title of Marquis of Osorno. In 1786 he -returned to Lima in the high capacity of Viceroy, and found his old -friend and brother pedlar, La Reguera,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> enjoying the archiepiscopal -mitre: a coincidence of good fortune not often equalled. La Reguera had -some time before left Lima for Spain, his native country, and having -been more fortunate in trade than Higgins, had prosecuted his studies, -and returned archbishop in 1781.</p> - -<p>On the south side is a row of private houses, having a balcony and -trellis windows: over the piazza, which is ten feet broad, the pillars -are of stone; a row of mercers' and drapers' shops occupies the piazza, -and between the pillars are stationed a number of men, principally -indians, employed in making fringe, silk buttons, epauletts, &c.; hence -it is called, <i>el portal de botoneros</i>. In the middle of this piazza is -<i>el callejon de petateros</i>, remarkable as being the site of Pizarro's -palace, and where he was murdered.</p> - -<p>The west side is similar to the south, and at the north end of it is the -<i>casa consistorial</i>, corporation house; under it is the city gaol, in -front of which is the council hall, which has on one side the door a -canopy over the royal arms. Under this the alcaldes formerly stood to -administer justice. Here it was that, some years ago, the young Viscount -de San Donas sentenced the coachman of Judge Nuñes to receive a hundred -lashes for carrying prohibited arms: the man was tied to an ass, and the -hangman,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> having inflicted twenty-five stripes, was marching him to the -next corner to administer the same number, when the judge, informed of -the affair, left the audience chamber, and proceeded in his robes to the -rescue of his servant; but in this he was prevented by the alcalde; the -judge became boisterous,—the punishment was continued; at length his -lordship insulted the alcalde, who immediately ordered his alguazils to -seize him and conduct him to the court gaol, where San Donas confined -him in a dungeon, took the keys, went home, ordered his horse, and left -the city. When he returned in the evening he waited on the Viceroy, -Castel-forte, who urgently interceded for the judge; but the alcalde -kept him in prison until he apologised for his improper attempt to -prevent a magistrate from enforcing the execution of a lawful sentence.</p> - -<p>In the centre of the square is a beautiful brass fountain, erected by -the Viceroy Count de Salvatierra in 1653. The basin is very capacious: -in the middle rises a brass column twenty two feet high, on the top of -which is a small cupola supported by four pillars; the whole is -surmounted by a figure of Fame. Through the trumpet water is ejected; -but the greater portion rises within the dome, after which it falls into -a large basin, from thence into another of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> greater dimensions, and from -thence through four orifices into a basin which has an ornamented brass -enclosure, surmounted by four treble lions, ejecting water from their -mouths into the basin. There are also four smaller fountains at the -angles of the central one, having each a brass pillar five feet high, -with four orifices, whence water issues. The water is the best in Lima, -and at all hours of the day the carriers are busy in conveying it to -different parts of the city. For this purpose they have a mule, with a -pack-saddle and two hoops affixed to it, into which they put two -barrels, each containing about ten gallons, behind which a man generally -jumps up and rides. The carrier has a thick stick with an inverted iron -hook near the top, with which he props one barrel when he takes out the -other. If the water be for sale a small bell is attached to one of the -hoops, which continues tinkling as the mule trots along. The price is -one real for the two barrels.</p> - -<p>In this square the principal market is held, and one of the greatest -luxuries which the eye can witness is enjoyed by visiting it about five -or six o'clock in the morning, when the articles for sale are just -brought in. It is divided into several compartments by rows of large -pebbles, which are placed merely to limit the venders,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> and prevent -their encroaching on the public walks. The butchers' market is generally -well supplied with excellent beef and mutton; but calves and lambs are -never killed, this being prohibited by an old law for the promotion of -the breed of cattle. Pork is sold in one part; in another all kinds of -salted and dried meats, principally brought from the interior; these are -<i>charque</i>, jerked beef; <i>sesina</i>, beef salted and smoked or dried in the -sun: hams, bacon, and frozen kid from the mountains, which last is most -delicate eating: there are likewise many kinds of sausages; salt fish, -principally <i>bacalao</i>, from Europe; <i>tollo</i>, <i>congrio</i>, and corbina. The -fish market is in some seasons abundantly supplied from the neighbouring -coasts with corbina, <i>jureles</i>, mackerel, <i>chita</i>, plaice, turbot, peje -rey, lisa, anchovies, &c., and most excellent crayfish, <i>camarones</i>, -from the rivers, some of which are six or seven inches long. Fish is -generally cheap; but during Lent, and particularly in Passion Week, it -is excessively dear; which arises from the indians enjoying the -exclusive privilege of fishing, and being at that time of the year too -much occupied with their religious duties to attend to their regular -business. Indeed no indian will fish on the Thursday, Friday, or -Saturday in Passion Week;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> and I have seen a fish sold on those days for -twenty or twenty-five dollars, which at other times might have been -bought for one, or even less.</p> - -<p>The poultry market is divided, one place being set apart for the live, -and another for the dead. Poultry is almost always dear; a turkey costs -from three to five dollars; a fowl from one to two dollars; ducks, -Muscovy, the same price; pigeons half a dollar each; geese are seldom -seen in the market, for as the natives never eat them, very few are -bred. Here is also a market for all kinds of pulse—beans of several -descriptions, peas, lentils, maize of five or six kinds, <i>gurbansos</i>, -quinua, &c. The vegetable market contains every description of -horticultural produce known in England, as well as the <i>arracacha</i>, -<i>yuca</i>, casava root, <i>camote</i>, sweet potatoe, yam, <i>oca</i>, &c. The -vegetables are remarkably fine, in great abundance, and generally cheap. -The fruit market is splendid, furnishing the most delicious fruits of -Europe—the grape of several varieties, the peach, apricot and -nectarine, the apple, the pear, the pomegranate, the quince, the tomate, -and the strawberry; and an abundance of luscious tropical fruits—the -pine, the melon, badeas, granadillas, sapote, lucuma, nisperos, guavas, -paltas, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>guanabanas, custard apples, the sweet and sour orange, lime, -and lemon, the shaddock, the citron, the plantane, the banana, and above -all the chirimoya, the queen of tropical fruits. The portion allotted to -the flower sellers is appropriately called the <i>calle del peligro</i>, -street of danger; for here the gentle fair resort, and their gallant -swains watch the favourable opportunity of presenting to them the -choicest gifts of Flora. This corner of the market, at an early hour in -the morning, is truly enchanting; the fragrance of the flowers, their -beauty and quantity, and the concourse of lovely females—altogether -would persuade a stranger that he had found the Muses wandering in -gardens of delight! In the vicinity stands a <i>fresquera</i>, vender of iced -lemonade, pine-apple water, <i>orchata</i>, almond milk, pomegranate water, -&c. which offer another opportunity for gallantry. It is no exaggeration -in the citizens of Lima when they assert, that they have one of the -finest markets in the world, for every thing in art and nature -contributes to its support: the beautiful climate near the coast, the -vicinity of the mountains, where all climates may be found, from the -ever-during snow to perpetual sunshine—send their abundant and rich -produce to this cornucopia of Ceres and Pomona.</p> - -<p>The interior of the Viceroy's palace is very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> mean; but it is said to -have been a magnificent building before it was destroyed by an -earthquake on the 20th October, 1687. Its principal entrance is on the -west side, in a narrow street leading to the bridge from the plasa; to -the right of the entrance is the guard-room, where a company of -infantry, a captain, lieutenant, and ensign are stationed: to the left -there are four flights of steps leading to the <i>sala de los Vireys</i>, at -the door of which is a guard of halberdiers, dressed in blue coats with -full trimming of broad gold lace, crimson waistcoat and breeches with -gold lace, silk stockings, velvet shoes, a laced hat, and a halberd. -These soldiers are generally of good families: they are twenty-five in -number, and the captain, their only officer, was always a young -nobleman, because the situation was considered as highly honourable. -Each Viceroy nominated a captain on his arrival. Don Diego Aliaga, son -to the Marquis de Lurigancho, was captain to Abascal and Pezuela. The -<i>sala de los Vireys</i>, so called on account of its containing full-length -portraits of all the Viceroys from Pizarro to Pezuela,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> was used only -on days of ceremony, when the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> Viceroy stood under a canopy of crimson -velvet, trimmed with gold, and received in the name of the King the -compliments addressed to him, which however were generally set speeches, -studied for the occasion. The Regent pronounced the first harangue, then -followed the controller of the tribunal of accompts, the dean in the -name of his chapter, the alcalde of the first vote, the prior of the -consulate, the inquisitor mayor, the commissary of the crusade, the -rector of the university, a senior collegian from each college, and a -master friar from each community. These levees were called <i>dias de besa -manos</i>, which ceremony was performed <i>de facto</i> in Madrid, the whole -court kissing the King's hand, and this was almost the only ceremony -which the royal representative in Lima dispensed with.</p> - -<p>To the right of this hall there is a narrow corridor, looking into a -small garden on the right, having a suite of rooms on the left, which on -days of ceremony were used as assembly rooms; there are also some -closets, which may serve as sleeping rooms or studies, each having a -small glazed balcony next the street. Two young British officers, -belonging to the Briton, were one night detected by the sentry -attempting to pay a visit, at one of those commodious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> <i>ventanas</i>, to -Miss Ramona Abascal, the Viceroy's daughter, and her female companion. -The young ladies made fast the end of the sash belonging to Mr. B., but -an unfortunate laugh alarmed the intruding sentry. From the north-west -corner another range of rooms extends along the north side, which leads -to those of the pages and other domestics; on the east side of the -garden there is a terrace forming a passage to a range of apartments, -where the chaplain, surgeon and secretary usually resided. A private -passage under the terrace leads to one of those rooms constructed by the -Viceroy Amat, for the purpose of receiving the midnight visits of the -famous Perricholi. This name was given to the lady by her husband, an -Italian, who wishing to call her a <i>perra chola</i>, indian b——h, gave an -Italian termination to the words, and a name to his wife, by which she -was ever afterwards known in Lima. In 1810 she was living at the new -mills, at the corner of the <i>alameda vieja</i>. This circumstance I take -the liberty to mention, because persons going to Lima will often hear on -their arrival the name of this once handsome and generous woman, whose -beauty had so far influenced her admirer, the Viceroy, that she at one -time persuaded him to feed her mules at midnight, <i>en camisa</i>; and at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> -another obtained from him the reprieve of a criminal on the morning he -was to have suffered. In her youth she was on the stage; but she spent -her last days in seclusion, and her last dollars in works of charity. -The dining room is on the east side of the garden, and has a staircase -leading from the kitchen; it is low and dark, and has a dirty -appearance. The rooms used on public occasions have each a crimson -velvet canopy, under which were hung portraits of the reigning King and -Queen; beside some antique furniture which belonged to the palace, glass -chandeliers, &c.; but the whole was a very mean display for a Viceroy of Peru.</p> - -<p>The palace also contained the royal treasury, the courts of the royal -audience, the Viceroy's chapel, the county gaol, the secretary's -offices, and some others belonging to the attendants. Each front of the -palace was disgraced with mean pedlars' and shoemakers' shops, and close -to the principal entrance was a pulperia, common grog shop, for the -accommodation, I suppose, of the coachmen, footmen and soldiers on duty. -The north and south sides of this building are four hundred and eighty -feet long; the others four hundred and ten.</p> - -<p>The interior of the archbishop's palace is but small; a flight of steps -opposite the entrance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> leads to a corridor that runs round the -court-yard; on the north side are the dining and drawing rooms; on the -west, fronting the plasa, are the principal levee rooms; on the south -the secretary's offices; and on the east the apartments belonging to the -domestics. The principal rooms are neatly fitted up; in some of them the -walls are covered with crimson damask, having gilt cornices and -mouldings.</p> - -<p>The interior of the Sagrario, which may be called the principal parish -church, or matrix, is more splendid than rich; the roof is beautifully -pannelled, having a cupola in the centre, resting on the four corners -formed by the intersection of the cross aisle; it is lofty, and the -several altars are splendidly carved, varnished and gilt. Great part of -the high altar is cased with silver; the sacrarium is highly finished, -and the custodium of gold, richly ornamented with diamonds and other -precious stones. The whole service is costly, both in plate and robes. -The baptismal font is in a small chapel on one side; it is large, and -covered with a thick casing of pure silver.</p> - -<p>The cathedral, like all others, is spoiled by having the choir in the -centre, blocking up the view of the high altar, which otherwise would -present a most majestic appearance from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> centre porch. The walls and -floor are of good freestone, and the roof, which is divided into -compartments, is most beautifully pannelled and carved; it is upheld by -a double row of neat square pillars of stone work, supporting the -arches, and corresponding with the buttresses in the walls; all these, -on festivals, are covered with Italian crimson velvet hangings, except -in Passion Week, when they are clothed with purple ones of the same -quality. Both sets are edged with broad gold lace, with a deep gold -fringe at the bottom, and festoons with lace and fringe at the top.</p> - -<p>The lateral altars are placed in niches between the buttresses, having -ornamented gates before them, which, when opened inwards, form the -presbytery. Some of these altars are rich, but none of them handsome. At -the back of the high altar is a chapel dedicated to Saint Francisco -Xavier, in which there are effigies of two archbishops, in white marble, -kneeling before reclinatories. In this chapel was the archbishops' -burying vault, which is now closed, and they, in common with all other -people, are carried to the pantheon, where the first corpse interred was -that of Archbishop La Reguera, being exhumed for the purpose.</p> - -<p>The throne, or high altar, has a most <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>magnificent appearance; it is of -the Corinthian order, the columns, cornices, mouldings, pedestals, &c. -being cased with pure silver; it is also surmounted with a celestial -crown of gilt silver; in the centre is the sacrarium, richly ornamented -with chased silver work. The custodium is of gold, delicately wrought, -and enriched with a profusion of diamonds and other precious stones: -from the pedestal to the points of the rays it measures seven feet, and -is more than any moderate sized person can lift. The front of the altar -table is of embossed silver, very beautiful. On each side of the altar -is an ornamented reading desk, where the gospel and epistle are -chaunted. From the foot of the presbytery runs on either side to the -choir a railing, and the front of the choir is closed by tastefully -wrought gilt iron palisades, having two large gates in the centre. The -stalls are of carved cedar, and the state chair of curious workmanship; -it is considered as a relic, because it was used by Saint Toribio de -Mogroviejo, archbishop of Lima, from 1578 to 1606. The choral music is -very select, and the two organs finely toned. The pulpit is in the -modern taste, highly varnished and gilt.</p> - -<p>On grand festivals this church presents an imposing coup d'œil; the -high altar is illuminated with more than a thousand wax <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>tapers; the -large silver candelabra, each weighing upwards of a hundred pounds; the -superb silver branches and lamps, and the splendid service of plate on -the left of the altar, are indescribably striking. The archbishop in his -costly pontifical robes is seen kneeling under a canopy of crimson -velvet, with a reclinatory and cushions of the same material; a number -of assisting priests in their robes of ceremony fill the presbytery; -from which, leading towards the choir, are seats covered with velvet, on -the left for the officers of state and the corporation, on the right for -the judges, who attend in full costume. In the centre, in front of the -altar, is a state chair covered with crimson velvet, with cushions, and -a reclinatory to match, for the Viceroy, when he attended in state, -having on each side three halberdiers of his body guard; behind him -stood his chaplain, chamberlain, groom, captain of the body guard, and -four pages in waiting. If any ceremony can flatter the vanity of man, it -must be that of offering incense to him in such a situation:—three -times during mass one of the acolites came down from the presbytery with -an incensary, and bowed to the Viceroy, who stood up amid a cloud of -smoke; the acolite bowed and retired, and the Viceroy again knelt down.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span></p><p>The gold and silver brocades, tissues and other stuffs, the laces and -embroidery for robes, vestments and decorations, are of the most costly -kind that can be procured. The sacred vessels, chalices, patenas, -hostiarias, &c. are often of gold, enriched with a profusion of the -rarest gems, so that nothing can display more grandeur than is beheld -here on great festivals, when divine service is performed with a pomp -scarcely to be imagined.</p> - -<p>At the east end are two doors, corresponding with the two lateral doors -in the front, and producing a fine effect. The area is spacious, and -paved with freestone on the west, south, and east sides of this -building, and the surrounding wall is surmounted by an ornamental -palisade.</p> - -<p>The corporation hall, sala consistorial, on the north-west side of the -plasa, or square, offers nothing worthy of notice; it is a large room, -containing benches for the members of the cavildo, a state chair and -canopy for the president, some plans of the city hanging on the walls, -and a closet for the archives.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> It is a curious circumstance, that the hall was exactly -filled with portraits when the liberating forces entered Lima, there not -being one spare pannel, nor room to place another painting, without -removing some of the old ones.</p></div></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Particular Description of Parish Churches....Of Santo -Domingo....Altar of the Rosary, St. Rosa and other -Altars....Cloisters....Sanctuary of Saint Rosa....Church of San -Francisco....Chapels <i>Del Milagro</i>, <i>De Dolores</i>, De los -Terceros....Pantheon....Cloisters....San Diego....San Agustin....<i>La Merced</i>....Profession of a Nun, or taking the -Veil....Hospitals of San Andres, of San Bartolome and -others....Colleges of Santo Toribio, San Carlos, <i>Del -Principe</i>....University....Inquisition....Taken to it in -1806....Visit to it in 1812, after the Abolition....Inquisitorial -Punishments ....Foundling Hospital....Lottery....Mint....Pantheon.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The parish churches of Lima have nothing to recommend them particularly -to the notice of a stranger. St. Lazaro has an elegant façade, and -presents a good appearance from the bridge; the interior is tastefully -ornamented; the ceiling is of pannel work, and the several altars highly -varnished and gilt. The living is said to produce about thirty thousand -dollars annually, and is often called the little bishopric.</p> - -<p>Of the conventual churches, only those belonging to the principal houses -are remarkably rich. St. Dominic, Santo Domingo, about a hundred yards -from the plasa mayor, is truly magnificent; the tower is the loftiest in -the city, being sixty-one yards high, built<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> chiefly of bajareque; the -bells are good, especially the great one, which was cast in 1807: none -of the large bells are rung as in England; having no swing wheels, the -clappers are merely dragged backwards and forwards till they strike the -sides of the bells. The roof of the church is supported by a double row -of light pillars, painted and gilt; the ceiling is divided into pannels -by gilt mouldings, and the large central pannels exhibit some good -scriptural paintings in fresco. The high altar, as usual, is on an -elevated presbytery: it is of modern architecture, of the Ionic order; -the columns are varnished in imitation of marble, with gilt mouldings, -cornices and capitals. At the foot of the presbytery, on the right, -stands the beautifully rich chased and embossed silver cased altar of -our Lady of the Rosary. This altar exceeds any other in Lima both in -richness and effect; it is entirely covered with pure silver; its -elegant fluted columns, highly finished embossed pedestals, capitals, -cornices, &c., some of which are doubly gilt, are magnificently superb. -In the centre of the altar is the niche of the Madonna, of exquisite -workmanship; the interior contains a transparent painting of a temple, -the light being admitted to it by a window at the back of the altar. The -effigy is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> gorgeously dressed—the crown is a cluster of diamonds and -other precious gems; and the drapery of the richest brocades, laces and -embroidery; the rosary is a string of large pearls of the finest orient. -Such is the abundance, or rather profusion, of drapery, that the same -dress is never continued two days together, throughout the year. Before -the niche fifteen large wax tapers are continually burning in silver -sockets; and in a semicircle before the altar are suspended, by massy -silver chains, curiously wrought, fourteen large heavy silver lamps, -kept constantly lighted with olive oil. Besides these are, similarly -suspended, eight fancifully wrought silver bird cages, whose inmates, in -thrilling notes, join the pealing tones of the organ and the sacred -chaunt of divine worship. Four splendid silver chandeliers hang opposite -the altar, each containing fifteen wax tapers; below are ranged six -heavy silver candelabra, six feet high, and six tables cased in silver, -each supporting a large silver branch with seven tapers; also four urns -of the same precious metal, filled with perfumed spirits, which are -always burning on festivals, and emit scents from the most costly drugs -and spices; the whole being surrounded by fuming pastillas, held by -silver cherubim. On those days when the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>festivals of the Virgin Mary -are celebrated, and particularly at the feast of the rosary and octavo, -the sumptuous appearance of this altar exceeds all description: at that -time, during nine days, more than a thousand tapers blaze, and the -chaunting and music of the choir are uninterrupted.</p> - -<p>At the celebration of these feasts many miracles are pretended to be -wrought by this Madonna; and many absurd legends are related from the -pulpit, tending more to inculcate superstition than religion—more to -increase pious frauds, than to enforce sound morality. It was for -speaking thus irreverently of these ceremonies, to one of the -double-hooded brethren, that I was brought before the holy inquisition, -of which I shall say more when I conduct my readers to that now-deserted -mansion. On the left of the high altar stands one dedicated to Saint -Rose; it is richly ornamented, and has a large urn, containing an effigy -of the saint, in a reclining posture, of white marble, and good -sculpture. On each side of the church are six altars, coloured and -varnished in imitation of different marbles, lapis lazuli, &c. with gilt -mouldings, cornices, and other embellishments. The choir is over the -entrance at the principal porch; it is capacious, and has two good -organs. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> music belonging to this church is all painted on vellum by -a lay brother of the order, and some of the books are ably done.</p> - -<p>Three of the cloisters are very good; the principal one is elegant; it -has two ranges of cells, and the pillars and arches are of stone, of -fine workmanship. The lower part of the walls is covered with Dutch -tiles, exhibiting sketches from the life of St. Dominick, &c. Above are -large indifferently executed paintings of the life and miracles of the -tutelary saints: they are generally concealed by panelled shutters, -which are opened on holidays and festivals. At the angles of this -cloister are small altars, with busts and effigies, most of them in bad -style. The lower cloisters are paved with freestone flags—the upper -ones with bricks. Some of the cells are richly furnished, and display -more delicate attention to luxury than rigid observance of monastic -austerity. The library contains a great number of books on theology and -morality. On the wall of the stairs leading from the cloister to the -choir is a fine painting of Christ in the sepulchre.</p> - -<p>The rents of this convent amount to about eighty thousand dollars -annually, and the number of friars belonging to the order is one hundred -and forty. The provincial prelates are elected<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> by the chapter every -year, being a Spaniard and a Creole alternately, and the contests run so -high, that a military force has sometimes been found necessary to -prevent bloodshed.</p> - -<p>Belonging to this order is the sanctuary of Saint Rose, she having been -a <i>beata</i>, a devotee of the order, wearing the Dominican habit. In the -small chapel are several relics or remains of the saint, as bones, hair, -&c., but more particularly a pair of dice, with which, it is pretended, -when Rose was exhausted by prayers and penance, Christ often entertained -her with a game. Shame having become paramount to deceit, the pious -brethren have lately been loath to expose these dice, which, however, -were shewn to me in 1805, and I kissed them with as much pious devotion -as I would have done any other pair.</p> - -<p>The church, chapels and convents of San Francisco, belonging to the casa -grande, about 200 yards from the great square, plasa mayor, are the -largest and most elegant in Lima. The church does not possess the riches -of St. Dominick's, but its appearance is more solemn; the porch is -filled with statues and other ornaments, and the two steeples are lofty -and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> somewhat elegant. The roof is supported by two rows of stone -pillars, and is of panel work of the Gothic order: some of the altars -are curiously carved and gilt, and the pillars, moulding, &c. of the -sacrariums are cased with silver: the service of plate is rich, and the -robes of the priests are splendid. Like the cathedral, this church has a -complete set of crimson velvet hangings, laced and fringed with gold.</p> - -<p>The chapel called <i>del Milagro</i> is most tastefully ornamented; some of -the paintings executed by Don Matias Maestre are good: the high altar is -cased with silver, and the niche of the Madonna is beautifully wrought -of the same material. Mass is celebrated here every half-hour, from five -in the morning till noon. In the vestry of this chapel are paintings of -the heads of the apostles, by Reubens, or, as some assert, by Morillo; -however this may be, they are undoubtedly very fine. The following story -is related of this Madonna. On the 27th of November, 1630, a very severe -shock of an earthquake was felt; the effigy was then standing over the -porch of the church, fronting the street; but at the time of the shock -she turned round, they say, and facing the high altar, lifted up her -hands in a supplicating<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> posture, and thus, according to many pious -believers, preserved the city from destruction! From this act she is -called <i>del milagro</i>, of the miracle.</p> - -<div class="center"><img src="images/i244.jpg" alt="FEMALES OF LIMA" /></div> - -<p class="bold">FEMALES OF LIMA.</p> - -<p class="bold"><i>Engraved for Stevenson's Narrative of South America.</i></p> - -<p>Another chapel, elegantly ornamented, is of Nuestra Señora de los -Dolores; and one in the interior of the convent is dedicated to the -fraternity of Terceros of the order, and the religious exercises of St. -Ignacio de Loyola, with a cloister of small cells for <i>exercitantes</i>. -The chapel contains five beautiful paintings from the passion of Christ, -by Titian; they belong to the Count of Lurigancho, and are only lent to -the chapel. Inside the convent is a pantheon or mausoleum for the order -and some of the principal benefactors; but it is at present closed, all -the dead being now interred at the pantheon on the outside the city -walls. The principal cloister is very handsome: the lower part of the -walls is covered with blue and white Dutch tiles, above which is a range -of paintings, neatly executed, taken from the life of St. Francis. The -pillars are of stone; the mouldings, cornices, &c. of stucco. The roof -is of panel work, which with the beams is most laboriously carved: at -the angles are small altars of carved wood. In the middle of this -cloister there is a garden and an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> arbour of jessamine on trellis work, -crossing it at right angles: in the centre is a beautiful brass -fountain; and in the middle of each square, formed by the intersection -of the arbour, is a smaller one, throwing the water twenty feet high. -The minor squares are filled with pots of choice flowers, and a number -of birds in cages hang among the jessamines. Two large folding gates -lead from the church to the cloister, and whether the garden be viewed -from the former, or the music of the choir be heard from the latter, the -effect is equally fascinating. The stairs from the lower cloister to the -upper, as well as the church choir, are beautifully finished. There are -two flights of steps to the first landing place, and one from thence to -the top; the centre flight is supported by a light groined arch; over -the whole is a dome of wood-work, elegantly carved, and producing a most -noble effect. This convent has nine cloisters, including the noviciate, -and belonging to it there are about three hundred friars. The provincial -prelate is elected by the chapter, a Spaniard and a Creole alternately; -the order is of mendicants, and consequently possesses no property; it -is supported by charity, and having the exclusive privilege of selling -shrouds, it acquires a very large<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> income, as no one wishes that a -corpse should be buried without the sacred habit of St. Francis. The -shroud is in fact exactly the same as the habit of the friar, which gave -rise to the curious remark of a foreigner, "that he had observed none -but friars died in this place." The library is rich in theological works.</p> - -<p>Belonging to St. Francis is the recluse of St. Diego. The friars in this -small convent wear the coarse grey habit, and are barefooted. They lead -a most exemplary life, seldom leave their cloisters except on the duty -of their profession, and even then one never goes alone; if a young -friar be sent for, an old friar accompanies him, and vice versa: to the -intent that the young friar may profit by the sage deportment of the -old. At this convent, as well as at every other of the order of St. -Francis, food is daily distributed to the poor at twelve o'clock, at the -postern, and many demi-paupers dine with the community in the refectory. -The gardens of St. Diego are extensive, and contain a large stock of -good fruit trees, as well as medicinal plants. The solemn silence which -reigns in the small but particularly clean cloisters of this convent -seem to invite a visitor to religious seclusion; for, as it is often -said, the very walls breathe sanctity. Here is also<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> a cloister of small -cells, and a chapel for religious exercises, where any man may retire -for a week from the hurry and bustle of the town, and dedicate a portion -of his life to religious meditation. During Lent the number of those who -thus retire is very great; their principal object is to prepare -themselves to receive the communion; and they have every assistance with -which either precept or example can furnish them.</p> - -<p>The church of San Agustin is small, light, and ornamented with sculpture -and gilding. The convent is of the second class, but the order is rich, -and their college of San Ildefonso is considered the best conventual -college in Lima.</p> - -<p>The church of Nuestra Señora de la Merced is large, but not rich. This -order, as well as that of San Agustin, elect their provincial prelates -every year; they are always natives, no Spaniard being allowed to become -a prelate; even the habit is denied them, so that few Spaniards of -either of the two orders are to be found in Lima, and these few belong -to other convents. The duty of the order, which is denominated a -military one, is to collect alms for the redemption of captive -Christians.</p> - -<p>In the churches belonging to the nunneries<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> there is a great quantity of -tasteful ornaments, but nothing very costly, although the income of one, -the Concepcion, exceeds a hundred thousand dollars annually. It is said, -that the four best situations in Lima are the Mother Abbess of -Concepcion, the Provincialate of Santo Domingo, the Archbishopric, and -the Viceroyalty.</p> - -<p>The enormous sums of money which the nunneries have received at -different times almost exceed belief; for independently of gifts and -other pious donations, the dowry of each nun, when she takes the veil, -amounts to three thousand dollars; and many females who have been -possessed of large sums have declared their whole property to have been -their dowry—thus preventing the possibility of a law-suit, and often -depriving, by this subterfuge, poor relatives from enjoying what they -had long hoped for at the death of the possessor.</p> - -<p>Nuns, as well as friars, have one year of probation, as novices, before -they can profess or take the veil, which seals their doom for life. When -a female chooses to become a nun she is usually dressed in her best -attire, and attended by a chosen company of friends, whom she regales at -her own house, or at that of some acquaintance; in the evening she goes -to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> church of the nunnery, and is admitted into the lower choir by a -postern in the double gratings; she retires, but soon re-appears -dispossessed of her gay attire, and clothed in the religious habit of -the order, without either scapulary or veil, and then bids adieu to her -friends, who immediately return to their houses, whilst the nuns are -chaunting a welcome to their new sister. At the expiration of a year, -the novice is questioned as to the purity of her intentions, by the -Mother Abbess, or Prioress; and if she express a desire to profess, a -report is made to the Prelate of the order, who is the bishop, or his -delegate, or the provincial prelate of the monastic order; for some -nunneries are under the jurisdiction of the ordinary, or bishop, and -others under that of the regulars of their own order. The evening before -the day appointed for the solemn ceremony of taking the veil, the -prelate, accompanied by the chaplain of the nunnery, and the parents and -friends of the nun, goes to the gate or locutory of the nunnery, and the -novice is delivered to him by the Mother Abbess and community, in their -full habits of ceremony; she is then led to the church, when the prelate -seating himself, the chaplain reads to her the institute or laws and -regulations of the order; he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> questions her as to her own will, explains -to her the duty of the profession she is going to embrace, and warns her -not to be intimidated by threats, nor hallucinated by promises, but to -say whether by her own consent, free will, and choice she have -determined to become a sister of the order, and a professed spouse of -Christ, according to the spirit of the Church. If she answer in the -affirmative, she is re-conducted to the locutory, where she spends the -evening with her friends, or, if she desire it, she can go to the house -of her parents, or visit other religious houses. Early the next morning -the novice makes her private vows of chastity, poverty, obedience and -monastic seclusion, in the hands of the Mother Abbess, the whole -sisterhood being present. At a later hour the prelate and the -officiating priests attend the church, and high mass is celebrated; the -novice is now presented at the communion grating, where she receives the -sacrament from the prelate; she then retires, and the rules of the order -are again read to her, and if she still give her assent to them, she -kisses the rules and the missal. A funeral pall is spread on the floor -of the choir, on which the novice lies down, and is covered with -another; the knell for the dead is tolled by the nunnery<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> bells, the -nuns holding funeral tapers in their hands, with their veils down, -chaunting a mournful dirge, after which a solemn requiem is performed by -the priests and the choir. The novice rises, assisted by the nuns, and -the prelate, going to the communion table, takes a small veil in his -hands, and chaunts the anthem, "Veni sponsa Christi." The novice -approaches the table, the veil is laid on her head, and a lighted taper -put into her hand, ornamented as a palm, after which she is crowned with -flowers. The Mother Abbess next presents her to each nun, whom she -salutes, and lastly the Abbess. She then bows to the prelate, priests, -and her friends, and retires in solemn procession, the whole community -chaunting the psalm, "Laudate Domini."</p> - -<p>Much has been said and written respecting nuns and nunneries, and most -unfeeling assertions have been made both with regard to the cause and -effect of taking the veil; but, from what I have heard and seen, these -assertions are generally as false as they are uncharitable; they are too -often the effusions of bigots, who endeavour to load with the vilest -epithets as well the cloistered nun, the devout catholic, and the pious -protestant, as the immoral libertine. They apply to themselves the -text,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> "he that is not for me, is against me," and every thing that -militates against their own peculiar doctrines must be wrong. I never -knew a nun who repented of her vows, and I have conversed with hundreds: -many have said that they doubted not but that happiness was to be found -without the walls, and discontent within, but that neither could be -attributed exclusively to their being found in or out of a nunnery. Let -those who would revile the conduct of their fellow creatures look to -their own; let those who pity, search at home for objects: they who -would amend others, should set the example. If we suppose that some of -the inmates of cloisters are the victims of tyranny, we should recollect -how many others are sacrificed at the shrine of avarice to the bond of -matrimony! for the vows at the altar are alike indissoluble, and their -effects are often far more distressing.</p> - -<p>The vows of a friar are similar to those of the nuns; but owing perhaps -to the door of the convent being as open as that of the choir, they are -not so religiously fulfilled. The friars may indeed be considered as a -nuisance, for they are generally formed of the dregs of society. When a -father knows not what to do with a profligate son, he will send him to a -convent, where having passed his year in the noviciate, he <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span>professes, -and relying on his convent as a home, he becomes a drone to society, a -burden to his order, and a disgrace to his own character. It was well -said, by Jovellanos, that "friars enter their convent without knowing -each other, live without loving one another, and die without bewailing -one another." I have nevertheless known many virtuous and learned men -among the hooded brethren, but rarely have I heard any one state, that -he did not regret having taken the solemn oath that bound him to the -cloister, and made him one of a fraternity which he could not avoid -disliking. It generally happens, that the respectable individuals who -assume a religious habit apply themselves to study, and by becoming -lecturers, or getting a degree of D. D. in the University, they escape -the drudgery of a hebdomadary, and take a seat in the chapter of the -order.</p> - -<p>The hospital of San Andres is appropriated to white people; it has -several large neat wards, with clean beds; these are placed in small -alcoves on each side the ward, and are so constructed, that in case of -necessity, another row of beds can be formed along the top of the -alcoves; it contains about six hundred beds, a number which can be -doubled. The wards are well ventilated from the roof, and are kept<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> -wholesome. When a patient enters, he has a bed assigned him; his clothes -are taken away, deposited in a general wardrobe, and not returned to him -until orders are given by the physician or surgeon. The sick are not -allowed to have any money in their possession, nor are visitors -permitted to give them any thing, without the consent of one of the -major domos, or overseers. A good garden, called a botanic garden, -belongs to the hospital; also an amphitheatre, or dissecting room. The -college of San Fernando, built by the Viceroy Abascal, for the study of -medicine and surgery, adjoins this hospital, and here the students -practise. It has also a department for drugs, where all the -prescriptions are attended to by regular professors. The druggists, as -well as the physicians and surgeons, are subject to examination in the -university, and cannot practise without permission from the college of -physicians, to whose annual visits they are liable, for the purpose of -examining their drugs. No physician or surgeon is allowed to have drugs -at his own house, or to make up his own prescriptions: even the barbers, -who are phlebotomists, are examined by the board of surgeons.</p> - -<p>The hospital of San Bartolome is for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span>negroes and other people of -colour; if they are free, they are received gratis, but if slaves, their -owners pay half a dollar a day for the time they remain. St. Ana is for -indians, and was founded by an indian lady, called Catalina Huanca. This -casica was very rich, and besides this pious establishment she left -large sums of money for other charitable uses; but her most -extraordinary bequest was a sum for forming and paying the body guard of -the Viceroy, both the halberdiers and the cavalry, consisting of a -hundred men. The hospital del Espiritu Santo is for sailors, and a -portion of the wages is deducted, called hospital money, from the pay of -every sailor who enters the port of Callao. San Pedro is part of the -convent bearing the same name, formerly belonging to the Jesuits, and -now occupied by the congregation of San Felipe Neri. This hospital is -for poor clergymen. San Pedro de Alcantara, and la Caridad, are both for -females, and San Lazaro for lepers. Particular care is taken in the -different hospitals, as well to the administration of medicine and -surgical operations, as to the diet, cleanliness, ventilation, and -comfort of the sick.</p> - -<p>Besides these hospitals, there are the convalescencies of Belen and San -Juan de Dios, under the management of the friars of the two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> orders. -More particular attention is paid here to the sick than in the -hospitals; any individual is received on paying half a dollar a day, or -through the recommendation of one of the benefactors. I was twice in San -Juan de Dios, and received every assistance and indulgence that I had a -right to expect.</p> - -<p>The college of Santo Toribio is a tridentine seminary, where young -gentlemen are educated principally for the church; four collegians -attend mass at the cathedral every morning, for the purpose of being -initiated into the ceremonies of their future professions. Their habit -is an almond coloured gown, very wide at the bottom, and buttoned round -the neck; when spread open its form is completely circular, having a -hole with a collar in the centre; this is called the <i>opa</i>. A piece of -pale blue cloth, about eight inches broad, is passed over one shoulder, -then folded on the breast, and the end thrown across the opposite -shoulder, the two ends hanging down behind the bottom of the opa. On the -left side of this cloth, called the beca, the royal arms are -embroidered. A square clerical cap or bonnet of black cloth is worn on -the head. This college bears the name of its founder, and is supported -by rents appertaining to it; there is also a subsidy paid annually by -each beneficed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> curate in the archbishopric, and a certain sum by each -collegian.</p> - -<p>The college of San Carlos is called the royal college; it was founded by -the Jesuits, under the title of San Martin, but after the extinction of -that order it was changed to San Carlos. The principal studies in this -college are a course of arts and law; but theology is also taught. The -dress is a full suit of black, a cocked hat, dress sword of gold or -gilt, and formerly the royal arms suspended at a button-hole on the left -side by a light blue ribbon. The college is capacious, having a chapel, -refectory, garden, baths, different disputing rooms, and a good library, -containing many prohibited French and other authors. San Carlos is -supported by a yearly stipend from the treasury, assisted by what the -collegians pay for their education. Lectures are delivered by -<i>pasantes</i>, or the head collegians, to the lower classes; for which they -receive a pecuniary reward, and wear as a distinguishing badge, a light -blue ribbon or scarf, crossing from the left shoulder to the right side, -to which the arms are suspended instead of the button-hole.</p> - -<p>In the college del Principe, young noble indian caciques are educated -for the church; their dress is a full suit of green, a crimson<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> shoulder -ribbon and cocked hat. That of San Fernando, for medicine, has for dress -a full suit of blue, yellow buttons, the collar trimmed with gold lace, -and a cocked hat.</p> - -<p>All the secular colleges have a rector and vice-rector, who are secular -clergymen; some of the lecturers are also clergymen, but more commonly -collegians pasantes. There is a proviso in the synodal laws for -collegians from Santo Toribio and San Carlos; among those who receive -holy orders benefices are insured to a certain number. In what was the -palace of the Viceroy, is a nautical academy, where several young men -study astronomy, navigation, &c.: it has a good stock of instruments, -maps, and charts. Many of the maps are original, from surveys made at -different times, and which have not been published.</p> - -<p>The university stands in the <i>plasa de la inquisicion</i>. It is a handsome -building, containing several good halls, beside the public disputing -room, which is fitted up with desks and benches, tribunes, galleries, -&c.; a neat chapel, a small cloister, and an extensive library. The -rector enjoys a good salary, and has many perquisites; one is elected by -the professors every three years, and the one chosen is alternately a -secular priest and a layman. The professors'<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> chairs are sinecures, for -the professors never lecture, and only attend on days of public -disputation, or when degrees are conferred. Degrees of bachelor and -master are granted by the rector, on paying the fees. That of doctor in -any faculty requires a public examination, and plurality of votes of the -examiners and professors in the faculty of the degree solicited. -Previous to the examination the rector holds a table of the points of -controversy; the candidate pricks into one of them, and is obliged to -defend this point on the following day, at the same hour. The discussion -is opened by the candidate with an harangue in Latin, which lasts an -hour, after which the point is discussed in forma scholastica by the -candidate and the examiners; this lasts another hour, when the rector -and professors retire, and vote the degree. On the following day the -candidate presents a thesis to the rector, who reads it, and challenges -the students who are present to dispute it. This act is generally opened -by the candidate with an elegant speech in Latin; after which he -supports his argument against the wranglers who may present themselves. -If the degree be voted him, he goes up to the rector, who places on his -head the bonnet, which bears in deep silk fringe from the centre the -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>distinguishing colour of the faculty, blue and white for divinity, red -for canons, green for jurisprudence or law, and yellow for medicine. The -young doctor takes his place on his proper bench, and is complimented by -the senior professors of the faculty; when the whole company adjourns to -a splendid collation prepared by the new brother of the bonnet and -fringe.</p> - -<p>This university, now under the title of San Marcos, was founded in 1549 -by a bull of Pius V. with the same privileges as those enjoyed by that -of Salamanca in Spain; it was, till 1576, in the hands of the Dominican -friars; but by an edict of Felipe III. it was placed under the royal -patronage, and built where it at present stands. It has produced many -great scientific characters, the portraits of several of whom adorn the -walls of the principal hall. Among the faculty, those whose talents are -most conspicuous are, in theology, Rodrigues, rector of San Carlos; in -law, Vivar, rector of the college of advocates; Unanue, president of the -college of physicians, <i>protomedico</i>, and director of San Fernando; -Valdes, president of the board of surgeons: (he is a man of colour, the -first who has taken the degree of doctor in the university); Parades, -professor of mathematics; and many others, who are famous in the pulpit, -the forum or the hospitals.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span></p><p>In the same square are the holy tribunal, whence the plasa derives its -name, and the hospital of la Caridad: it is often called the plasa of -the three cardinal virtues—Faith, the inquisition; Hope, the -university; and Charity, the hospital.</p> - -<p>I shall now describe the inquisition as it was, "<i>bearing its blushing -honours thick upon it</i>," or rather, what I saw of it when summoned to -appear before that dread tribunal; and also what I saw of it after its -abolition by the Cortes.</p> - -<p>Having one day engaged in a dispute with Father Bustamante, a Dominican -friar, respecting the image of the Madonna of the Rosary, he finished -abruptly, by assuring me that I should hear of it again. On the same -evening I went to a billiard-room, where the Count de Montes de Oro was -playing. I observed him look at me, and then speak to some friends on -the opposite side of the table. I immediately recollected the threat of -Father Bustamante—I knew, too, that the count was alguazil mayor of the -inquisition. I passed him and nodded, when he immediately followed me -into the street. I told him that I supposed he had some message for me; -he asked my name, and then said that he had. I said I was aware of it, -and ready to attend at any moment. Considering for a short time, he -observed, "this is a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> matter of too serious a nature to be spoken of in -the street," and he went with me to my rooms. After some hesitation, his -lordship informed me that I must accompany him on the next morning to -the holy tribunal of the Faith; I answered that I was ready at any -moment; and I would have told him the whole affair, but, clapping his -hands to his ears, he exclaimed "no! for the love of God, not a word; I -am not an inquisitor; it does not become me to know the secrets of the -holy house," adding the old adage, "<i>del Rey y la inquisicion, -chiton</i>,—of the King and the inquisition, hush. I can only hope and -pray that you be as rancid a Christian as myself." He most solemnly -advised me to remain in my room, and neither see nor speak to any -one—to betake myself to prayer, and on no account whatever to let any -one know that he had anticipated the summons, because, said he, "that is -certainly contrary to the laws of the holy house." I relieved him from -his fears on this point, and assured him, that I should return with him -to the coffee-house, and that I would remain at home for him on the -following morning at nine o'clock. At the appointed hour, an under -alguazil came to my room, and told me that the alguazil mayor waited for -me at the corner of the next street. On meeting him<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> there, he ordered -me not to speak to him, but to accompany him to the inquisition. I did -so, and saw the messenger and another person following us at a distance. -I appeared unconcerned until I had entered the porch after the count, -and the two followers had passed. The count now spoke to me, and asked -me if I were prepared; I told him I was: he then knocked at the inner -door, which was opened by the porter. Not a word was uttered. We sat -down on a bench for a few minutes, till the domiciliary returned with -the answer, that I must wait. The old count now retired, and looked, as -he thought, a long adieu; but said nothing. In a few minutes a beadle -beckoned me to follow him. I passed the first and second folding doors, -and arrived at the tribunal: it was small, but lofty, a scanty light -forcing its way through the grated windows near the roof. As I entered, -five Franciscan friars left the hall by the same door—their hoods were -hung over their faces—their arms folded—their hands hid in their -sleeves—and their cords round their necks. They appeared by their gait -to be young, and marched solemnly after their conductor, a grave old -friar, who had his hood over his face, but his cord round his waist, -indicating that he was not doing penance. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> felt I know not how—I -looked upon them with pity, but could not help smiling, as the idea -rushed across my mind, that such a procession at midnight would have -disturbed a whole town in England, and raised the posse comitatus to lay -them. I turned my eyes to the dire triumvirate, seated on an elevated -part of the hall, under a canopy of green velvet edged with pale blue, a -crucifix of a natural size hanging behind them; a large table was placed -before them, covered and trimmed to match the canopy, and bearing two -green burning tapers, an inkstand, some books, and papers. Jovellanos -described the inquisition by saying it was composed of <i>un Santo Cristo, -dos candileros, y tres majderos</i>—one crucifix, two candlesticks, and -three blockheads. I knew the inquisitors—but how changed from what at -other times I had seen them! The puny, swarthy Abarca, in the centre, -scarcely half filling his chair of state—the fat monster Zalduegui on -his left, his corpulent paunch being oppressed by the arms of his chair, -and blowing through his nostrils like an over-fed porpoise—the fiscal, -Sobrino, on his right, knitting his black eyebrows, and striving to -produce in his unmeaning face a semblance of wisdom. A secretary stood -at each end of the table; one of them bad me<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> to approach, which I did, -by ascending three steps, which brought me on a level with the -above-described trinity of harpies. A small wooden stool was placed for -me, and they nodded to me to sit down; I nodded in return, and complied.</p> - -<p>The fiscal now asked me, in a solemn tone, if I knew why I had been -summoned to attend at this holy tribunal? I answered that I did, and was -going to proceed, when he hissed for me to be silent. He informed me, -that I must swear to the truth of what I should relate. I told him that -I would <i>not</i> swear; for, as I was a foreigner, he was not sure that I -was a catholic; it was therefore unnecessary for me to take that oath -which, perhaps, would not bind me to speak the truth. At this time a few -mysterious nods passed between the fiscal and the chief inquisitor, and -I was again asked, whether I would speak the truth: I answered, yes. The -matter at last was broached; I was asked if I knew the reverend father -Bustamante? I replied, "I know <i>friar</i> Bustamante, I have often met him -in coffee houses; but I suppose the reverend father you mean is some -grave personage, who would not enter such places." "Had you any -conversation with father Bustamante, touching matters of religion?" "No, -but <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>touching matters of superstition, I had." "Such things are not to -be spoken of in coffee houses," said Zalduegui. "No," I rejoined, "I -told father Bustamante the same thing." "But you ought to have been -silent," replied he. "Yes," said I, "and be barked at by a <i>friar</i>." -Zalduegui coloured, and asked me what I meant by laying such a stress on -the word friar. "Any thing," said I, "just as you choose to take it." -After questions and answers of this kind, for more than an hour, Abarca -rang a small bell; the beadle entered, and I was ordered to retire. In a -short time I was again called in, and directed to wait on Sobrino the -following morning at eight o'clock, at his house: I did so, and -breakfasted with him.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> He advised me in future to avoid all religious -disputes, and particularly with persons I did not know, adding, "I -requested an interview, because on the seat of judgment I could not -speak in this manner. You must know," said he, "that you are here -subject to the tribunal of the Faith, you, as well as all men who live -in the dominions of his Catholic Majesty; you must, therefore, shape -your course accordingly." Saying<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> this he retired, and left me alone to -find my way out of the house, which I immediately did. In the evening I -went to a coffee house, where I saw my friend, friar Bustamante; he -blushed, but with double civility nodded, and pointed to a seat at the -table at which he was sitting. I shrugged my shoulders, and nodded -significantly, perhaps sneeringly; he took the hint, and left the room. -Soon afterwards I met the old Count de Montes de Oro, who looked, -hesitated, and in a short time passed me, caught my hand, which he -squeezed, but spoke not a word.</p> - -<p>The act of the Cortes of Spain which abolished the inquisition, and -which, during its discussion, produced many excellent though over-heated -speeches, was published in Lima just after the above occurrence. The -Señora Doña Gregoria Gainsa, lady of Colonel Gainsa, informed me that -she and some friends had obtained permission of the Viceroy Abascal to -visit the ex-tribunal; and she invited me to accompany them on the -following day, after dinner. I attended, and we went to visit the -monster, as they now dared to call it. The doors of the hall being -opened, many entered who were not invited, and seeing nothing in a -posture of defence, the first victims to our fury were the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> table and -chairs: these were soon demolished; after which some persons laid hold -of the velvet curtains of the canopy, and dragged them so forcibly, that -canopy and crucifix came down with a horrid crash. The crucifix was -rescued from the ruins of inquisitorial state, and its head discovered -to be moveable. A ladder was found to have been secreted behind the -canopy, and thus the whole mystery of this miraculous image became -explainable and explained:—a man was concealed on the ladder, by the -curtains of the canopy, and by introducing his hand through a hole, he -moved the head, so as to make it nod consent, or shake dissent. In how -many instances may appeal to this imposture have caused an innocent man -to own himself guilty of crimes he never dreamt of! Overawed by fear, -and condemned, as was believed, by a miracle, falsehood would supply the -place of truth, and innocence, if timid, confess itself sinful. Every -one was now exasperated with rage, and "there are yet victims in the -cells," was universally murmured. "A search! a search!" was the cry, and -the door leading to the interior was quickly broken through. The next we -found was called <i>del secreto</i>; the word secret stimulated curiosity, -and the door was instantly burst open. It led to the archives. Here were -heaped,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> upon shelves, papers, containing the written cases of those who -had been accused or tried; and here I read the name of many a friend, -who little imagined that his conduct had been scrutinized by the holy -tribunal, or that his name had been recorded in so awful a place. Some -who were present discovered their own names on the rack, and pocketed -the papers. I put aside fifteen cases, and took them home with me; but -they were not of great importance. Four for blasphemy bore a sentence, -which was three months' seclusion in a convent, a general confession, -and different penances—all secret. The others were accusations of -friars, <i>solicitantes in confesione</i>, two of whom I knew, and though -some danger attended the disclosure, I told them afterwards what I had -seen. Prohibited books in abundance were in the room, and many found -future owners. To our great surprise we here met with a quantity of -printed cotton handkerchiefs. These alas! had incurred the displeasure -of the inquisition, because a figure of religion, holding a chalice in -one hand and a cross in the other was stamped in the centre: placed -there perhaps by some unwary manufacturer, who thought such devout -insignia would insure purchasers, but who forgot the heinousness of -blowing the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> nose or spitting upon the cross. To prevent such a crime -this religious tribunal had taken the wares by wholesale, omitting to -pay their value to the owner, who might consider himself fortunate in -not having his shop removed to the sacred house. Leaving this room we -forced our way into another, which to our astonishment and indignation -was that of torture! In the centre stood a strong table, about eight -feet long and seven feet broad; at one end of which was an iron collar, -opening in the middle horizontally, for the reception of the neck of the -victim; on each side of the collar were also thick straps with buckles, -for enclosing the arms near to the body; and on the sides of the table -were leather straps with buckles for the wrists, connected with cords -under the table, made fast to the axle of an horizontal wheel; at the -other end were two more straps for the ancles with ropes similarly fixed -to the wheel. Thus it was obvious, that a human being might be extended -on the table, and, by turning the wheel, might be stretched in both -directions at the same time, without any risk of hanging, for that -effect was prevented by the two straps under his arms, close to the -body; but almost every joint might be dislocated. After we had -discovered the diabolical use of this piece of machinery, every one -shuddered, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>involuntarily looked towards the door, as if -apprehensive that it would close upon him. At first curses were -muttered, but they were soon changed into loud imprecations against the -inventors and practisers of such torments; and blessings were showered -on the Cortes for having abolished this tribunal of arch tyranny. We -next examined a vertical pillory, placed against the wall; it had one -large and two smaller holes; on opening it, by lifting up the one half, -we perceived apertures in the wall, and the purpose of the machine was -soon ascertained. An offender having his neck and wrists secured in the -holes of the pillory, and his head and hands hidden in the wall, could -be flogged by the lay brothers of St. Dominick without being known by -them; and thus any accidental discovery was avoided. Scourges of -different materials were hanging on the wall; some of knotted cord, not -a few of which were hardened with blood; others were of wire chain, with -points and rowels, like those of spurs; these too were clotted with -blood. We also found tormentors, made of netted wire, the points of -every mesh projecting about one-eighth of an inch inward, the outside -being covered with leather, and having strings to tie them on. Some of -these tormentors were of a sufficient size for the waist, others<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> for -the thighs, the legs and arms. The walls were likewise adorned with -shirts of horse hair, which could not be considered as a very -comfortable habit after a severe flagellation; with human bones, having -a string at each end, to gag those who made too free a use of their -tongues; and with nippers, made of cane, for the same purpose. These -nippers consisted of two slips of cane, tied at the ends; by opening in -the middle when they were put into the mouth, and fastened behind the -head, in the same manner as the bones, they pressed forcibly upon the -tongue. In a drawer were a great many finger screws; they were small -semicircular pieces of iron, in the form of crescents, having a screw at -one end, so that they could be fixed on the fingers, and screwed to any -degree, even till the nails were crushed and the bones broken. On -viewing these implements of torture, who could find an excuse for the -monsters who would use them to establish the faith which was taught, by -precept and example, by the mild, the meek, the holy Jesus! May he who -would not curse them in the bitterness of wrath fall into their -merciless hands! The rack and the pillory were soon demolished; for such -was the fury of more than a hundred persons who had gained admittance, -that had they been constructed of iron they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> could not have resisted the -violence and determination of their assailants. In one corner stood a -wooden horse, painted white: it was conceived to be another instrument -of torture, and instantly broken to pieces; but I was afterwards -informed, that a victim of the inquisition, who had been burnt at the -stake, was subsequently declared innocent of the charges preferred -against him, and as an atonement for his death, his innocence was -publicly announced, and his effigy, dressed in white, and mounted on -this horse, was paraded about the streets of Lima. Some said that the -individual suffered in Lima, others, that he suffered in Spain, and that -by a decree of the inquisitor-general this farce was performed in every -part of the Spanish dominions where a tribunal existed. We proceeded to -the cells, but found them all open and empty: they were small, but not -uncomfortable as places of confinement. Some had a small yard attached; -others, more solitary, had none. The last person known to have been -confined was a naval officer, an Andalusian, who was exiled in 1812 to -Boca Chica.</p> - -<p>Having examined every corner of this mysterious prison-house, we retired -in the evening, taking with us books, papers, scourges, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span>tormentors, -&c., many of which were distributed at the door, particularly several -pieces of the irreligious handkerchiefs. The following morning the -archbishop went to the cathedral, and declared all those persons -excommunicated, <i>vel participantes</i>, who had taken and should retain in -their possession any thing that had belonged to, or had been found in -the ex-tribunal of the inquisition. In consequence of this declaration, -many delivered up what they had taken; but with me the case was -different—I kept what I had got, in defiance of <i>flamines infernorum</i> -denounced by his grace against the <i>renitentes</i> and <i>retinentes</i>.</p> - -<p>It is said, that when Castel-forte was Viceroy in Lima, he was summoned -by the inquisition, and attended accordingly. Taking with him to the -door his body-guard, a company of infantry, and two pieces of artillery, -he entered, and laying his watch on the table, told the inquisitors, -that if their business were not despatched in one hour, the house would -be battered down about their ears, for such were the orders he had left -with the commanding officer at the gate. This was quite sufficient; the -inquisitors rose, and accompanied him to the door, too happy when they -beheld the backs of his excellency and his escort.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span></p><p>During my residence in Lima, I saw two men publicly disgraced by the -inquisition; the one for having celebrated mass without having been -ordained, and the other for soothsaying and witchcraft. They were placed -in the chapel of the tribunal at an early hour in the morning, each -dressed in a <i>sambenito</i>, a short loose tunic, covered with ridiculous -paintings of snakes, bats, toads, flames, &c. The pseudo priest had a -mitre of feathers placed on his head, the other a crown of the same. -They stood in the centre of the chapel, each holding a green taper in -his hand. At nine o'clock one of the secretaries ascended the pulpit, -and read the cause for which they were punished. The poor mass-sayer -appeared very penitent, but the old fortune-teller, when some of his -tricks were related, burst into a loud laugh, in which he was joined by -most of the people present. Two mules were brought to the door, and the -two culprits were tied on their backs, having their faces towards the -tails. The procession then began to move: first several alguazils, with -the Count de Montes de Oro at their head; next the mules, led by the -common hangman; while the inquisitors, in their state coaches, brought -up the rear. Two friars of the order of St. Dominick carried on each -side the coaches large branches of palm.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> In this order they marched to -St. Dominick's church, and were received at the door by the provincial -prelate and community: the culprits were placed in the centre of the -church, and the same papers read from the pulpit, after which the men -were sentenced to serve in the hospitals during the will of the -inquisitors.</p> - -<p>To those who visit Lima, it may perhaps be interesting to know, that the -stake at which the unfortunate victims of inquisitorial tyranny were -burnt was near the ground on which the <i>plasa de toros</i>, bull circus, -now stands; and that at the foot of the bridge, at the door of the -church, <i>de los desamparados</i>, of the abandoned, they were delivered to -the ordinary ministers of justice for execution.</p> - -<p>It is well known, that many exaggerated accounts have been given of the -inquisition, tending more to create doubts, than to establish the truth -of the inhuman proceedings of that tribunal. I have stated this fact -elsewhere, not with the view of palliating the proceedings, but to put -readers on their guard, neither to believe nor disbelieve all that is -written. That enough may be said to make humanity shudder, and still -more remain untold, is proved by what I saw in the Pandemonium of Lima. -But the inquisitors knew too well, that those who had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> undergone the -pains and torments which they inflicted would be apt to divulge them, so -that it was their interest either to be sparing of torture, or to -prevent a discovery by sacrificing the victim.</p> - -<p>When the beloved Ferdinand abolished the Cortes and the constitution in -1812 he restored the inquisition, and often in Madrid personally -presided at its sessions. This was not however sufficient to encourage -its ministers to proceed with that rigour they had been wont to -exercise; they had been once dethroned, and were not certain of their -own stability. In Lima the monsters were tame, nay harmless; but this -proceeded from fear. No doubt Ferdinand, like his predecessor, Pedro, -and the inquisitors, like their founder, St. Dominick, wished for the -arrival of a time when they could repeat, "nothing rejoices my soul so -much as to hear the bones of heretics crackling at the stake." To the -credit of the new governments in South America, the inquisition has been -every where abolished, and all spiritual jurisdiction re-invested in the -bishops.</p> - -<p>The <i>casa de los huerfanos</i>, foundling hospital, is an establishment -that does honour to its founder, who was an apothecary. All white -children are received by tapping at a small <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span>revolving window, and -placing the child on it when it turns. They are brought up and educated, -the males to the age of fourteen, when they are apprenticed to some -trade, and according to the rules of the college of medicine, two are -received there every two years. The females have a dowry of one thousand -dollars each on their marriage, and if they become nuns, there is -another charitable institution, founded by the same individual, to which -they apply, and the annual dowries, being five of one thousand dollars -each, are decided by chance, the names of the solicitors being put into -a vase, and drawn in a manner similar to a lottery. Charles IV. declared -all foundlings to be noble, for the purpose of their being eligible to -any situation. Before the establishment of the foundling hospital, many -children were laid at the doors of the wealthy inhabitants, and they -were always taken care of. In small towns this practice still occurs, -but they are more frequently exposed near the huts of the indians, or -slaves; and as the exposed are generally, or I may say always white, -they are received, and their foster-parents often treat them with -greater kindness than their own children, shewing a kind of predilection -for the foundlings. Civilized whites may vaunt of their pious -establishments, but let them turn their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> eyes to the rude hut of an -indian, robbed of his country and of his native privileges; or to that -of a negro, deprived of the blessings of liberty by the overwhelming -power of white men, and behold a female mingling her tears with those of -a white child, because she is unable to provide for it what by whites -she herself has lost—food, clothing and education! But human nature, -not civilized humanity, is the temple of piety.</p> - -<p>The weekly lottery in Lima is an excellent establishment; the tickets -cost one real one-eighth of a dollar each; the prizes are, one of a -thousand dollars, two of five hundred, and the remainder is divided into -smaller sums. There are but few individuals, however poor they may be, -who cannot purchase one or two tickets weekly, and many slaves have -procured their manumission by means of this lottery. I was passing the -fountain belonging to the convent of San Juan de Dios, when two negroes -were disagreeing about the water; an old friar persuaded them to be -quiet and friendly; a seller of lottery tickets happened to pass at the -time, and the two negroes joined in buying a ticket, which an hour -afterwards was drawn a prize of a thousand dollars. In the afternoon the -negroes were free, having purchased their liberty; for which piece of -good fortune the old<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> friar put in his claim, as being the principal -mover.</p> - -<p>According to the Spanish laws, a master is obliged to sign the deed of -manumission, if the slave can emancipate himself at a fair valuation; -and if the master refuse, the slave may deposit the sum in the public -treasury, and the receipt is a sufficient voucher for his liberty.</p> - -<p>The Mint was established in Lima in 1565; in 1570 it was removed to -Potosi, but re-established in Lima in 1603. It is a large building, -containing all the necessary offices. The machinery was formerly worked -by mules, eighty being daily employed, till the year 1817, when Don -Pedro Abadia being the contractor for the coinage, Mr. Trevethick -directed the erection of a water wheel, which caused a great saving of -expense. The assaying, melting, rolling, cutting, weighing, stamping and -milling, are all carried on in different apartments by black men, -principally slaves; but the different offices of superintendance are -filled by white men. The whole is under the direction of an intendant, -and subaltern officers. The coinage is contracted for, and sold to the -highest bidder, who is allowed a per centage on all the gold and silver -that is coined, which in the year 1805 was as follows:—</p> - -<table summary="gold and silver coined"> - <tr> - <td class="left">Gold</td> - <td>501,287</td> - <td> value </td> - <td>in dollars.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Silver </td> - <td>8,047,623</td> - <td class="center">do.</td> - <td class="center">do.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span></p><p>Lima owes to the Viceroy Abascal, Marquis de la Concordia, the erection -of a place for the interment of all those who die in the city and -suburbs; it is called the pantheon. Situated on the outside of the -walls, it is sufficiently large to contain all the dead bodies for six -years, without removal; when this becomes necessary, the bones are taken -out of the niches, and placed in the osariums. Many of the rich families -have purchased allotments for family vaults, having their names -inscribed above. The building is a square enclosure, divided into -several sections; in the wall are niches, each sufficient to hold a -corpse, and the divisions are also formed by double rows of niches built -one above another, some of them eight stories high, the fronts being -open. The walks are planted with many aromatics and evergreens. In the -centre is a small chapel, or rather altar, with a roof: its form is -octagonal, so that eight priests can celebrate mass at the same time. -The corpse is put into the niche with the feet foremost, if in a coffin, -which seldom happens, except among the richer classes, the lid is -removed, and a quantity of unslaked lime being thrown on each body, its -decay is very rapid. For the conveyance of the dead several hearses of -different descriptions are provided, belonging<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> to the pantheon, and -they are not permitted to traverse the streets after twelve o'clock in -the day.</p> - -<p>Before the establishment of this cemetery, all the dead were buried in -the churches, or rather, placed in vaults, many of which had wooden -trap-doors, opening in the floors; and notwithstanding the plentiful use -of lime, the stench and other disgusting effects were sometimes almost -insufferable. When the first nun was to be carried to the pantheon, -great opposition was made by the sisterhood; but the Viceroy sent a file -of soldiers, and enforced the interment of the corpse in the general -cemetery.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The lenity shown in this case, by the inquisition, might -probably be owing to the expectation that the tribunal would shortly be -abolished by the Cortes.</p></div></div> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>The Population of Lima....Remarks....Table of Castes....The -Qualifications of Creoles....Population and -Division....Spaniards....Creoles, White....Costume....Indians....African Negroes....Their Cofradias, and royal -Personages....Queen Rosa....Creole Negroes....Mestiso....Mulattos....Zambos....Chinos....<i>Quarterones and -Quinterones</i>....Theatre....Bull Circus....Royal -Cockpit....Alamedas....Bathing Places....Piazzas -<i>Amancaes</i>....Elevation and Oration Bells....Processions of Corpus -Christi, Santa Rosa, San Francisco, and Santo -Domingo....Publication of Bulls....Ceremonies on the Arrival of a Viceroy.</p></blockquote> - -<p>There are few cities in the world whose population exhibits a greater -variety of shade or tint of countenance than Lima, or, perhaps, a -greater contrast of intellectual faculty, if the rules established by -physiognomists may be relied on. But these arbiters of physiognomy have -been white men, and there appears to be a considerable portion of -egotism attached to their opinions. They have not only erected their own -tribunal, and instituted their own code of laws, but they have presided, -judged, and sentenced in favour of themselves. By giving to the facial -line or indicator of talent and genius a particular direction, the -European white has been able to place himself at the head, and to -degrade the black, or negro of Africa, by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> placing him at the bottom of -the list. Probably the success of the Europeans in their wars and -conquests, and in their advancement in the arts and sciences, may give -considerable support to this classification. By drawing an horizontal -line that shall touch the base of the cranium, and intersecting it by -another drawn from the forehead and touching the extremity of the upper -lip, the statuaries have found the supposed angle of human perfection. -The Greeks fixed this angle at 100°; the Romans at 95°; and according to -this rule, the European face varies between 80° and 90°; the Asiatic -between 75° and 80°; the American, having the forehead more flattened, -between 70° and 75°; and, lastly, the Negro between 60° and 70°. By this -mode of judging, we find the European at the head, and the rude -semi-brutal negro at the bottom. But how disconcerted the lovers of this -criterion must feel, if any credit can be given to what has been -asserted of the Egyptians, the founders and promoters of the arts and -sciences. Colonies from Egypt and the east, led by Pelasgus, Cecrops, -Cadmus, &c., were the tutors of the Greeks, whom they found on their -arrival more ignorant than Columbus, Cortes and Pizarro found the -Americans, at the discovery and conquest of their country. Yet -Herodotus, l. 11, p. 150, says, that the Egyptians were black,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> with -woolly, curled black hair; and Blumenbach asserts, that having dissected -several Egyptian mummies, he observed that they belonged to the negro -race, from their elevated pomulos, thick lips, and large flat noses. The -Copts also, who are descendants of the Egyptians, have the aspect of -mulattos, and appear to belong to the negro race.</p> - -<p>I have repeatedly observed, that a negro born in Peru of African parents -shews a greater development of the human faculties than is exhibited by -either of his parents; nay, even his corporeal agility appears to have -increased, and certainly his share of civilized vices is augmented; yet -I cannot suppose that these proceed from any other source than an -imitation of examples placed before him, without any change in the -facial angle!</p> - -<p>For an examination of the influence of the configuration of the human -face, or of its colour, on the intellectual faculties, no place is more -<i>à propos</i> than Lima; and perhaps a few remarks upon this subject will -be acceptable to those who feel themselves interested in such -speculations.</p> - -<p>The annexed table shews the mixture of the different castes, under their -common or distinguishing names.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span></p> - -<table summary="mixture of the different castes"> - <tr> - <td class="b1 center">FATHER.</td> - <td class="b1 center">MOTHER.</td> - <td class="b1 center">CHILDREN.</td> - <td class="b3 center">COLOUR.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">European</td> - <td class="b4 left">European</td> - <td class="b4 left">Creole</td> - <td class="left">White.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Creole</td> - <td class="b4 left">Creole</td> - <td class="b4 left">Creole</td> - <td class="left">White.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Indian</td> - <td class="b4 left">Mestiso</td> - <td class="left">6/8 White, 2/8 Indian—Fair.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Indian</td> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Mestiso</td> - <td class="left">4/8 White, 4/8 Indian.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Mestiso</td> - <td class="b4 left">Creole</td> - <td class="left">White—often very Fair.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Mestiso</td> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Creole</td> - <td class="left">White—but rather Sallow.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Mestiso</td> - <td class="b4 left">Mestiso</td> - <td class="b4 left">Creole</td> - <td class="left">Sallow—often light Hair.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Mulatto</td> - <td class="left">7/8 White, 1/8 Negro—often Fair.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Zambo</td> - <td class="left">4/8 White, 4/8 Negro—dark copper.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Mulatto</td> - <td class="b4 left">Quarteron</td> - <td class="left">6/8 White, 2/8 Negro—Fair.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Mulatto</td> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Mulatto</td> - <td class="left">5/8 White, 3/8 Negro—Tawny.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Quarteron</td> - <td class="b4 left">Quinteron</td> - <td class="left">7/8 White, 1/8 Negro—very Fair.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Quarteron</td> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Quarteron</td> - <td class="left">6/8 White, 2/8 Negro—Tawny.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">White</td> - <td class="b4 left">Quinteron</td> - <td class="b4 left">Creole</td> - <td class="left">White—light Eyes, fair Hair.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Indian</td> - <td class="b4 left">Chino</td> - <td class="left">4/8 Negro, 4/8 Indian.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Indian</td> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Chino</td> - <td class="left">2/8 Negro, 6/8 Indian.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Mulatto</td> - <td class="b4 left">Zambo</td> - <td class="left">5/8 Negro, 3/8 White.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Mulatto</td> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Zambo</td> - <td class="left">4/8 Negro, 4/8 White.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Zambo</td> - <td class="b4 left">Zambo</td> - <td class="left">15/16 Negro, 1/16 White—Dark.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Zambo</td> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Zambo</td> - <td class="left">7/8 Negro, 1/8 White.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Chino</td> - <td class="b4 left">Zambo-chino</td> - <td class="left">15/16 Negro, 1/16 Indian.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Chino</td> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Zambo-chino</td> - <td class="left">7/8 Negro, 1/8 Indian.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="b4 left">Negro</td> - <td class="left"></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>This table, which I have endeavoured to make as correct as possible, -from personal observation, must be considered as general, and not -including particular cases. I have classed the colours according to -their appearance, not according to the mixture of the castes, because I -have always remarked, that a child receives more of the colour of the -father than of the mother.</p> - -<p>It may be correct to state, that the creoles from either European or -creole parents, are endowed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> with more open generosity than the -Spaniards, and that they are of a more active and penetrating genius, -but not so constant in their pursuits. Much has been said against the -creoles, or natives of the colonies by those of the parent states; their -descriptions, however, are rather accordant with their wishes than the -real character of the people whom they undertake to pourtray. Writers -ought not to sully their pages either by affirming untruths or uttering -biassed opinions. De Pauw says, "that all the American races are of a -degenerated and inferior order;" this is undoubtedly false, for I have -known several individuals who have borne down the restrictions of -colonial law, and become eminent both in the arts and sciences: Mexia -eclipsed many of the most famous Spanish orators in the late Cortes; and -Morales was elected president of the Regency. It is well known also, -that the contest in the colonies, where the natives have fought for and -gained their independence, brought to light the talent and genius of -many both in the cabinet and in the field, whose names would have -remained unknown, had not their abilities been thus called into action. -The coarse and foul caricature of De Pauw, may be contrasted with the -over-coloured picture of M. de Bercey, and a medium I think would form<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> -a correct outline. "Those whom we are accustomed to call barbarians and -savages are infinitely less entitled to these epithets than ourselves, -notwithstanding the refinement and civilization we boast. Equally, if -not more exempted from prejudice, the Americans neither create -factitious wants, nor seek imaginary sources of happiness." I have -observed the young men in the colleges of Lima, as well as in other -cities of South America, and I must affirm, that their minds are stored -with both just and clear ideas; and surely these are the principal -indications of good taste, and the characteristics of true genius. But -several causes have contributed to damp the career of literature; among -others we may reckon a scanty supply of books, a total want of -philosophical instruments, the restrictions of the inquisition, and the -prohibitory laws. Learning has indeed hitherto been discountenanced, for -when some of the collegians of San Carlos harangued the Viceroy Gil de -Lemos, he inquired of the rector, what sciences were taught in the -college, and being briefly informed, he returned "tu, tu, tu, let them -learn to read, write, and say their prayers, for this is as much as any -American ought to know!" The college <i>del Principe</i> has produced many -indians who have shone both in the pulpit and at the bar; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> among the -negroes and the mixed castes, several individuals of merit, both in -medicine and surgery, have been distinguished. Many also exist who, if -they have not been conspicuous in any department of the sciences, -undoubtedly owe their failure to the Spanish colonial laws, which have -shut all preferments against them. Yet who can read the harangues of -Colocolo to the Araucanian senate, without declaring them to be as -worthy of the poetical pen of Ercilla, as those of Nestor were of the -pen of Homer?</p> - -<p>Robertson states the population of Lima in 1764 at 54,000; but in 1810 -it was estimated at 87,000, at which time the deputies of the Cortes -were elected. Of this number about 20,000 are whites, the remainder -negroes, indians, and mixed breeds, or castes. I shall briefly -particularize the most striking features in the population, according to -my own observations.</p> - -<p>Among the inhabitants of this city, there are sixty-three noblemen, who -enjoy titles either of count or marquis, the greater part of whom are -natives of America, and about forty noblemen, or <i>mayorasgos</i>, without -titles; a number of knights of the different Spanish orders of -Catalrava, Alcantara, Santiago, Malta, and Charles III. Many of the -nobility are descendants of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> the conquerors. The most ancient families -are those of Villafuerte (marquis), Lurigancho (count), and Montemira -(marquis). One of the families in Lima traces its descent with -undeniable certainty from the Incas. Ampuero the founder married at the -time of the conquest a <i>coya</i>, or princess, sister to Atabalipa, and the -Kings of Spain granted at different times many distinguishing -prerogatives and honours to this family, from which the marquis of -Montemira is now the lineal descendant. The manners of the nobility are -courteous in the extreme, and their complaisance and affability to -strangers know no limits; their general conduct also seems to be as free -from haughtiness as from flattery, and their politeness, candour and -magnificence must charm every stranger who visits them. These qualities -were particularly shewn to the officers of several of H. B. M. ships of -war who were at Lima during the time I resided there.</p> - -<p>Lima is the birth-place of the only person in the Spanish colonies who -has been canonized by the Roman church: Santa Rosa de Santa Maria; she -is the patroness of Peru, and her festival is celebrated with great -solemnity. It is said by some that she foretold the independence of her -country, asserting, that after the domination of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> the Kings of Spain had -lasted as long as that of the Incas, the sceptre would drop from their -hands. This prophecy was printed in the first edition of her life in -1662, but was expunged from all the succeeding ones.</p> - -<p>Saint Thoribius de Mogroviejo, archbishop, and St. Francis Solano, of -the order of Franciscans, flourished here, but both were natives of -Spain.</p> - -<p>This city has also produced many other persons of virtuous and literary -fame: the most conspicuous among whom are—</p> - -<table summary="famous persons"> - <tr> - <td class="left">The venerable father Francisco del Castillo</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">The venerable Fray Martin de Porras</td> - <td class="left">}</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">The venerable Fray Juan Masias</td> - <td class="left">} Dominicans</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">The venerable Fray Vicente Vernedo</td> - <td class="left">}</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">The venerable Fray Pedro Urraca</td> - <td class="left">}</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">The venerable Fray Gonsalo Dias</td> - <td class="left">} Mercedarias</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">The venerable Fray Juan de Zalasar</td> - <td class="left">}</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">The venerable Fray Juan de Vargas</td> - <td class="left">} Martyred in Paraguay</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">The venerable Fray Juan de Albarran</td> - <td class="left">}</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Don Pedro de la Reyna Maldonado, a celebrated author</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Don Martin del Barco Zentenera, historian</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Don Pedro Peralta Bernueva, mathematician</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Don Jose, marquis of Vallumbrosa, a very learned man</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Don Diego Baños y Sotomayor, chaplain of honour to the King</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Don Alonzo, count of San Donas, ambassador of Spain to the<br />French -court, in the reign of Felipe IV.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Don Fernando, marquis of Surco, lieutenant-general,<br />chamberlain and -tutor to Don Felipe, duke of Parma</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Don Miguel Nuñes de Roxas, of the council of orders,<br />private judge -of confiscations, in the war of succession</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span>Don Jose Baquijano, of the council of Indies, in the reign of<br /> -Charles IV. and Fernando VII.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Don Tomas de Salasar, author of "Interpretaciones de las Leyes<br />de -Indias."</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td> </td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Don Lope de Armendaris, marquis of Cadreita, Viceroy of Nueva<br />España.</td> - <td></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>Besides these and several other eminent persons, Lima has given birth to -six archbishops, three of whom were conventual priests; and to fifty-two -bishops, twenty-five of whom were regulars of the different conventual orders.</p> - -<p>The Spaniard who arrived at Lima brought with him either some commission -from the government of Spain, or an intention of residing in the country -for the purpose of gain. Of the first class, however low the appointment -might be, the individual conducted himself towards the natives with a -haughty superiority, which to an impartial spectator was truly -disgusting; he assumed the Don if he excused the Señor, and was never -addressed without one or both of these appendages to his name; indeed -<i>el Señor Don</i> was more common in the streets of Lima, than at the court -of Madrid. The second class often consisted of sailors, who ran away -from their ships at Callao, and got places as servants in a <i>pulperia</i> -(a shop where spirits, wines, spices, sugar, and all common place -articles are sold), a bakehouse, or a farm. If industrious, they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> soon -obtained as much as was necessary to establish themselves, and many -amassed considerable fortunes, married advantageously, and remained in -the country; knowing full well, that in their own they would neither be -admitted into such society as they enjoyed here, nor be treated with -that deference to which they had become habituated. All this would be -excusable enough, if the beauty, riches, and comforts of Spain—its -learned societies, noble families, and enlightened population, were not -the universal topic of their conversation and their universal song of -praise. I have seen many of this class who, having been taught to read -and write in America, and acquired riches, have purchased an order of -knighthood! for although it was pretended, that nobility of descent must -be proved before any of the military orders could be obtained, yet a -<i>Spaniard</i> has purchased dispensation, and thus laid the foundation of a -<i>noble</i> family.</p> - -<p>All Spaniards in America fancied themselves to belong to a race of -beings far superior to those among whom they resided. I have frequently -heard them say, that they should love their children with greater ardour -if they had been born in Europe; and during the struggle in different -parts of the colonies between the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> royalists and the patriots, I have -known more than one Spaniard assert, that if he thought his children -would be insurgents he would murder them in their beds. A Spaniard would -solicit countrymen of his own to marry his daughters, preferring these -without any trade or fortune, to a creole possessed of both; indeed they -had one powerful inducement to make this election; the Spaniard would be -more likely to procure riches; and, generally speaking, they considered -nothing else worthy their attention, thus in cases of matrimony, the -inclinations of the daughters were not often consulted. The Spaniards -appeared to form a separate society, not only in their own houses and in -the public walks, but even in the coffee houses, where the creoles were -seldom seen at the same table. This visible antipathy was carried to -such an extent, after the beginning of the dissensions, that several -Spaniards, although some of them had children born in Lima of creole -mothers, formed an agreement, and bound themselves by an oath and fine, -not to take any native of the country into their employ. This -determination became public in the city, and, after the patriot troops -entered, was the cause of the most severe insults to its authors. It is -well known, however, that in a reverse of fortune, no man is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> more -docile or more servile than a Spaniard, who will, according to his own -adage, <i>besar la mano que quisiera ver cortada</i>—kiss the hand he would -wish to see cut off.</p> - -<p>A creole of Lima in many respects partakes of the character of an -Andalusian; he is lively, generous, and careless of to-morrow; fond of -dress and variety, slow to revenge injuries, and willing to forget them. -Of all his vices, dissipation is certainly the greatest: his -conversation is quick and pointed—that of the fair sex is extremely gay -and witty, giving them an open frankness, which some foreigners have -been pleased to term levity, or something a little more dishonourable, -attaching the epithet immoral to their general character—an imputation -they may deserve, if prudery and hypocrisy be the necessary companions -of virtue; but they certainly deserve it not, if benevolence, -confidence, unsuspecting conviviality, and honest intention, be the true -characteristics of morality. The creoles are generally kind and good -parents, very affectionate and indulgent to their families; and this -conduct, with few exceptions, insures the love, respect, and gratitude -of their children. I have often heard a creole ask his son, "Who am I?" -and receive the endearing answer, "my <i>Father</i> and my <i>Friend</i>." It -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span>frequently happens, through vanity or weakness, that a creole mother -teaches her daughters to call her sister, which may be construed into -the desire of not wishing to be considered old; but if this really be a -crime, in what part of the world are females innocent? I have no -hesitation in asserting, that any impartial person who shall reside long -enough among South Americans to become acquainted with their domestic -manners, will declare, that conjugal and paternal affection, filial -piety, beneficence, generosity, good nature and hospitality, are the -inmates of almost every house. I have no doubt, too, that these virtues -will continue here, until civilization and refinement shall drive them -from their abode in the new world, to make room for etiquette, -formality, becoming pride, prudery and hypocrisy from the old. Then, the -children of the first families in Lima (whom I have often seen rise from -the table, and carry a plateful of food to a poor protegée beggar, -seated in the patio or under the corridor, wait and chat with the little -miserable till it had finished, and return to the table) will look on -such objects with disdain, because mamma has subscribed a competent sum -to a charitable institution, and made that sum known to the world -through the medium of the newspapers!—I cannot avoid<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> fearing that this -modern improvement will supersede their own pure, but almost antiquated customs.</p> - -<p>This picture may appear to some highly coloured; but I speak from -experience, and could relate innumerable instances of the practice of -all the social virtues which I have mentioned: sufficient, I am sure, to -convince the most hardened sceptic. I arrived at Lima a prisoner, -pennyless, and, as I thought, friendless; but in this I was deceived; I -owe to persons whom I had never seen, and of whose existence I was then -ignorant, such friendship, kindness, and pecuniary relief while in -prison, and generous and kind protection afterwards, as I hope will -never be eradicated from my bosom; and yet I trust, that I neither do, -nor ever can, attribute to the creoles virtues which they do not -possess: it is my duty, as an author, to speak the truth, however my -gratitude and affection might incline me to conceal their failings.</p> - -<p>Gambling is carried on to a great extent in Lima, but much more in the -higher circles than in the lower. No public gaming houses are permitted -by the government, and the police officers are on the alert wherever a -house is suspected; but private parties are very common,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> particularly -at the country houses of the nobility, and at the bathing places of -Miraflores, Chorrillos and Lurin. The tables, although in the houses of -noblemen, are free to all—the master and the slave, the marquis, the -count, the mechanic, and the pedlar, mix indiscriminately. This vice is -generally confined to the men; but some females now and then join in -these fashionable amusements.</p> - -<p>Having observed, that the female creoles are kind mothers, it is -scarcely necessary to say, that adultery is rare. One would think that -the exclamation of the elder Cato to some young Romans was here -observed: "courage, my friends, go and see the girls, but do not corrupt -the married women." Concubinage is common, or perhaps only more public -than in Europe, where civilization appears to have established the law, -that to sin in secret is not to sin at all. It is true, that scandal -often aggravates the crime, which is certainly mollified by the sincere -regard which the father generally entertains for his natural children; -making their happiness a principal object of his attention, and -frequently at last legitimating them either by marriage or by will.</p> - -<p>The creoles are careful of the education of their children, and will -strain every nerve to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> support them at college until they have finished -their studies, and are thus able to enter the church, to follow the -profession of the law, or to practise in medicine. The education of the -daughters generally devolves on the mother: proper schools for their -instruction are very rare; so that, excepting a little drawing, dancing, -and music, for which purposes good masters are scarce, the needle claims -the greater portion of their time; and from the highest to the lowest -ranks they are continually employed in embroidery or other kinds of -needlework, at which they are very dexterous. The necessary -accomplishments of reading and writing are, however, never dispensed -with among the higher and middle orders.</p> - -<p>The white inhabitants of Lima have sallow complexions, having very -little colour on their cheeks; but, to the credit of the ladies, they -are not in the habit of using an artificial substitute; their hair and -eyes are black, the latter full and penetrating, which, with good teeth, -form very interesting countenances. The profusion of beautiful black -ringlets over their foreheads appears as if formed to prevent a stranger -from being over-dazzled by those sparkling eyes they are intended, but -in vain, to hide. Their figures are extremely genteel, though rather -small and slender. Their feet are remarkably diminutive,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> and the ease -and elegance of their gait is not to be surpassed.</p> - -<p>When I arrived in Lima, in 1804, the long Spanish cloak was worn by all -classes of men; but in 1810 it was so little used as a dress, that it -was rarely seen. When used, it was put on merely to supply the place of -a great coat, or confined to a few of the old Spaniards, who are as -great enemies to innovation as the Chinese. The English costume is now -quite prevalent, and as many dandies crowd the streets of Lima as those -of London. The walking dress of the females of all descriptions is the -<i>saya y manto</i>, which is a petticoat of velvet, satin, or stuff, -generally black or of a cinnamon colour, plaited in very small folds, -and rather elastic; it sits close to the body, and shews its shape to -the utmost possible advantage. At the bottom it is too narrow to allow -the wearer to step forward freely, but the short step rather adds to -than deprives her of a graceful air. This part of the dress is often -tastefully ornamented round the bottom with lace, fringe, spangles, -pearls, artificial flowers, or whatever may be considered fashionable. -Among ladies of the higher order the saya is of different -colours—purple, pale blue, lead colour, or striped. The manto is a hood -of thin black silk, drawn round the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> waist, and then carried over the -head: by closing it before, they can hide the whole of the face, one eye -alone being visible; sometimes they show half the face, but this depends -on the choice of the wearer. A fine shawl or handkerchief hanging down -before, a rosary in the hand, silk stockings and satin shoes, complete the costume.</p> - -<p>The hood is undoubtedly derived from the Moors, and to a stranger it has -a very curious appearance; however, I confess that I became so -reconciled to the sight, that I thought and still think it both handsome -and genteel. This dress is peculiar to Lima; indeed I never saw it worn -any where else in South America. It is certainly very convenient, for at -a moment's notice a lady can, without the necessity of changing her -under dress, put on her <i>saya y manto</i>, and go out; and no female will -walk in the street in any other in the day time. For the evening -promenade an English dress is often adopted, but in general a large -shawl is thrown over the head, and a hat is worn over all; between the -folds of the shawl it is not uncommon to perceive a lighted cegar; for -although several of the fair sex are addicted to smoking, none of them -choose to practise it openly.</p> - -<p>When the ladies appear on public occasions,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> at the theatre, bull -circus, and <i>pascos</i>, promenades, they are dressed in the English or -French costume, but they are always very anxious to exhibit a profusion -of jewellery, to which they are particularly partial. A lady in Lima -would much rather possess an extensive collection of precious gems than -a gay equipage. They are immoderately fond of perfumes, and spare no -expense in procuring them: it is a well known fact, that many poor -females attend at the archbishop's gate, and after receiving a pittance, -immediately purchase with the money <i>agua rica</i>, or some other scented -water. Even the ladies, not content with the natural fragrance of -flowers, add to it, and spoil it by sprinkling them with lavender water, -spirit of musk, or ambergris, and often by fumigating them with gum -benzoin, musk and amber, particularly the <i>mistura</i>, which is a compound -of jessamine, wall flowers, orange flowers and others, picked from the -stalks. Small apples and green limes are also filled with slices of -cinnamon and cloves. The mixture is generally to be found on a salver at -a lady's toilette; they will distribute it among their friends by asking -for a pocket handkerchief, tying up a small quantity in the corner, and -sprinkling it with some perfume, expecting the compliment, "that it is -most delicately seasoned."</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span></p><p>The indians who reside in Lima have become such exact imitators of the -creoles, in dress and manners, that were it not for their -copper-coloured faces it would be difficult to distinguish them. I shall -at present, however, defer any particular description of this part of -the inhabitants of South America. The principal occupation of the -indians who reside in Lima is the making of fringes, gold and silver -lace, epaulettes, and embroidery; some are tailors, others attend the -business of the market, but very few are servants or mechanics.</p> - -<p>The African negroes, owing to the kind treatment they receive, appear to -be completely happy. On their arrival they used to be exposed for sale -in some large house, and the first attention of their purchasers was to -have them taught the necessary prayers and rudiments of the Christian -religion, a task which generally fell to the lot of the younger branches -of the family. I have often seen the children of noblemen, as well as -those of the wealthy inhabitants, instructing their African slaves in -the Christian duties; for it is here considered quite disgraceful to -have a negro in the house for any length of time without being baptized; -and this ceremony cannot be performed until they are first prepared for -it by being taught their prayers and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> catechism. They are then taken -to the parish church, and examined by the priest, and if he find that -they are sufficiently instructed, he christens them, some of the oldest -and most steady of the slaves belonging to the family standing as -sponsors, on whom the duty of teaching them afterwards devolves. It very -seldom happens that, after a year's residence in a Christian family, an -African is not fully prepared to receive the communion.</p> - -<p>In the suburbs of San Lazaro are <i>cofradias</i> or clubs belonging to the -different castes or nations of the Africans, where they hold their -meetings in a very orderly manner, generally on a Sunday afternoon; and -if any one of the royal family belonging to the respective nations is to -be found in the city, he or she is called the King or Queen of the -cofradia, and treated with every mark of respect. I was well acquainted -with a family in Lima, in which there was an old female slave, who had -lived with them for upwards of fifty years, and who was the acknowledged -Queen of the Mandingos, she being, according to their statement, a -princess. On particular days she was conducted from the house of her -master, by a number of black people, to the cofradia, dressed as gaudily -as possible; for this purpose her young mistresses<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> would lend her -jewels to a considerable amount, besides which the poor old woman was -bedizened with a profusion of artificial flowers, feathers, and other -ornaments. Her master had presented her with a silver sceptre, and this -necessary appendage of royalty was on such occasions always carried by -her. It has often gratified my best feelings, when <i>Mama Rosa</i> was -seated in the porch of her master's house, to see her subjects come and -kneel before her, ask her blessing, and kiss her hand. I have followed -them to the cofradia, and seen her majesty seated on her throne, and go -through the ceremony of royalty without a <i>blush</i>. On her arrival, and -at her departure, the poor creatures would sing to their music, which -consisted of a large drum, formed of a piece of hollow wood, one end -being covered with the skin of a kid, put on while fresh, and braced by -placing it near some lighted charcoal; and a string of catgut, fastened -to a bow, which was struck with a small cane; to these they added a -rattle, made of the jaw-bone of an ass or a mule, having the teeth -loose, so that by striking it with one hand they would rattle in their -sockets. For a full chorus, they sometimes hold a short bone in their -hand, and draw it briskly backward and forward over the teeth: it does -not produce much harmony, it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> true; but if David found harmony in his -harp, Pan in his pipes, and Apollo in his lyre; if a shepherd find music -in his reed, and a mandarin in the gong, why should not the Queen of -Mandingo find it in the jaw-bone of an ass or a mule!</p> - -<p>The walls of the cofradias are ornamented with likenesses in fresco of -the different royal personages who have belonged to them. The purpose of -the institution is to help those to good masters, who have been so -unfortunate as to meet with bad ones; but as a master can object to -selling his slave, unless he prove by law that he has been cruelly -treated, which is very difficult, or next to impossible, the cofradias -raise a fund by contributions, and free the slave, to which the master -cannot object; but this slave now becomes tacitly the slave of the -cofradia, and must return by instalments the money paid for his manumission.</p> - -<p>I shall not attempt to defend all the actions of the Africans in a state -of slavery; but I must say, that when they are treated with -compassionate kindness, they are generally faithful and honest; -frequently become personally attached to their master, and though they -may be sometimes loath to exert themselves in laborious tasks to serve -him, yet in an emergency of danger they would often die for him. On the -contrary, when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> harshly and unjustly treated they become stubborn in the -greatest degree, and the master is only secure from personal violence -through the irresolute temper of the slave and his fear of punishment. -But place a white man in the same situation, and what, let me ask, would -be the line of conduct he would pursue?</p> - -<p>The negro creole is generally more athletic and robust than his African -parents; he has no more virtues than they have, but he has commonly more -vices; he seems to be more awake to revenge, and less timid of the -consequences; he considers himself as better than the <i>bozales</i>, the -name given to African slaves, and will rarely intermarry with them.</p> - -<p>The mestiso is generally very strong, of a swarthy complexion, and but -little beard; he is kind, affable and generous, and particularly -inclined to mix in the society of white people; very serviceable, and -something like the gallegos in Spain. In some parts of the interior of -the country there are great numbers of mestisos; here their colour is -whiter, and they have blue eyes and fair hair during childhood, but both -become darker as they advance in years.</p> - -<p>The mulatto is seldom so robust as his parents; he appears of a delicate -constitution, and in his mental capacities is far superior to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> -negro; indeed when assisted by education he is not inferior to a white -man. Fond of dress and parade, of a fiery imagination and inclined to -talk, he is often eloquent, and very partial to poetry. Many mulattos in -Lima obtain a good education by accompanying their young masters to -school while children, and afterwards attending on them at college. It -is very common at a public disputation in the university, to hear a -mulatto in the gallery help a wrangler out with a syllogism: they are -generally called <i>palanganos</i>, which is a local term, signifying a -chatterer. Many of the surgeons here are mulattos, and frequently do -great honour to themselves, and credit to their profession. Some of the -females have agreeable countenances, and fine figures; they are witty -and generous, and remarkably faithful in their connexions; they are very -fond of dress, dancing, and public amusements, where they generally -appear with their curly hair scarcely reaching to their shoulders, -adorned with jessamine and other flowers. In the evening they will -sometimes fill their hair with jessamine buds, which in the course of an -hour will open, and present the appearance of a bushy powdered wig. They -are often the confidential servants in rich families, and have the -direction of all domestic concerns. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span>Occasionally they are the duennas -of the young ladies, and not unfrequently sisters to them; but a very -just law decrees manumission to a female slave, if she can only prove -that she has had a criminal connexion with her master.</p> - -<p>The zambos are more robust than the mulattos, they are morose and -stubborn, partaking very much of the character of the African negro, but -prone to more vices. A greater number of robberies and murders are -committed by this caste than by all the rest, except the chino, the -worst mixed breed in existence:—he is cruel, revengeful, and -unforgiving; very ugly, as if his soul were expressed in his features; -lazy, stupid, and provoking. He is low in stature, and like the indian -has little or no beard, but very harsh black hair, which is inclined to -curl.</p> - -<p>The quarteron and quinteron are often handsome, have good figures, a -fair complexion, with blue eyes and light coloured hair; they are mild -and obliging, but have not the intrepidity nor lively imagination of the mulatto.</p> - -<p>I have not attributed drunkenness to any of the castes, for excepting -that of the African negro it is not common: perhaps the example of the -abstemious Spaniards is the cause of this sobriety.</p> - -<p>The principal place of public amusement in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span> Lima is the theatre, which -is a small but commodious building; its figure is nearly a semicircle, -having the stage for its diameter. The boxes, of which there are two -rows, are all private, being separated from one another by slight -partitions: they will each hold eight persons very comfortably. The pit -is filled with benches, which have backs, and are most conveniently -divided into seats by low arms. This part of the theatre exclusively -belongs to the men; but no soldiers, sailors, or people of colour, -without they be genteelly dressed, are admitted. Behind the pit and -under the lower tier of boxes is an area for the lower classes of men; -the gallery is the part appropriated to women of the lowest order. The -Viceroy's box was on the left side of the stage, and the nearest to it: -thus his Excellency gave his right side to no one; it was neatly fitted -up, with a crimson velvet canopy over it, and hangings of the same -colour on the outside, with a state chair, and others for his family, -gentlemen in waiting, and pages. The box for the cabildo is in the -centre, in the front of the stage. A guard of soldiers always attends on -the nights of performance, which are Thursdays and Sundays, and every -great festival, except during Lent, when the theatre is closed. The -scenery is not despicable, and I have seen some good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span> performers, both -comic and tragic; but these are principally Spaniards.</p> - -<p>The bull circus is a capacious building; with rooms in the lower parts, -having a sufficient open space to witness the fight; over these are -eight rows of seats, rising one above another; and behind them are the -boxes, or rather galleries, where the principal spectators take their -stations, and to which all the youth and beauty of Lima, in their -richest attire, resort. The gallery for the Viceroy is opposite to the -door where the bulls enter: it is large and handsome. The area is eighty -yards in diameter, and in the centre is a safety station, formed by -driving poles into the ground, at a sufficient distance from each other -to allow a man to pass when he is closely pursued by a bull.</p> - -<p>Scarcely any person speaks of the Spanish diversion of bull-fighting -without pretending to be shocked; but the same person will dilate on a -boxing-match with every symptom of delight. I have seen Englishmen -shudder and sympathize with a horse wounded by a bull, who would have -been delighted to have seen Spring "darken one of Langan's peepers." -When we have nothing to correct at home let us find fault with our -neighbours; for my own part, I am a friend to bull-fights, but an enemy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span> -to pugilistic homicide. If the amateurs of this "manly exercise" assert, -that it teaches a man how to defend himself against another, I reply, -that bull-fighting teaches him how to defend himself against a furious animal.</p> - -<p>I shall not give a precise detail of this spectacle; but merely notice a -few circumstances connected with it. At three o'clock, the circus, which -holds nearly twenty thousand persons, is generally full. The spectators -are of every colour—we have the European white, the American Indian, -and the African negro, with all the shades produced by their mixture, -and all are dressed in as fine attire as they can afford. One or two -companies of soldiers attend, and after performing some fanciful -evolutions in the arena, they take their stations, the band of military -music being placed in front of the Viceroy's gallery. On the arrival of -his excellency the trumpets sounded, the fighters, on foot and on -horseback, handsomely dressed in pink and pale blue satin, with cloaks -of the same stuff, began to parade the area; the first bull immediately -entered, often very gaily caparisoned—his horns sheathed in silver, the -body covered with a loose cloth of tissue, brocade, or satin, having on -his back a silver filigree basket filled with artificial flowers or -fireworks. He is at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span> first baited by holding a cloak to him, at which he -butts, when the baiter, drawing himself on one side, shakes it over his -head as he passes: at a signal from one of the regidores, who presides -as umpire, the man appointed kills the bull, either by running him -through with a sword, receiving him on the point of a strong lance, or, -crossing him when at full speed at a cloak presented to him, he stabs -him behind the horns, and the ferocious animal experiences so sudden a -check, that he frequently falls dead at the feet of the matador. Six -horses drawing a small car immediately enter, and the horns of the dead -bull being secured by hooks and a chain, he is dragged out, and another -brought in. The annual fightings are on the eight Mondays next after -Christmas, and the number of bulls killed each afternoon, from three to -six o'clock, is generally sixteen or eighteen.</p> - -<p>The royal cockpit is a daily resort, excepting Sundays. Many good mains -of cocks are fought, and an afternoon seldom passes without four or five -pair being matched. The pit is surrounded with ranges of seats, above -and behind which is a range of galleries. Every cock has one large -lancet-shaped spur fastened to his leg, his own spur being first cut -off: for this operation, as well as for placing the game within<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> the -ring, several fancy men attend, and one of the regidores always acts as -umpire, and is paid for performing this judicial duty. The cockpit, as -well as the theatre, belongs to the hospital of San Andres.</p> - -<p>There are several places in the suburbs for skittles and bowls; but they -are more frequented by Spaniards, particularly Biscayans, than by creoles.</p> - -<p>The public walks, <i>paseos</i>, are part of the Callao road, as far as the -willows extend. The new <i>alameda</i>, which has a double row of high -willows, a coachway between them, and foot walks on each side, with two -ranges of seats built of brick, is about a mile in length along the -river side, having a very commodious cold bath at the farther end, -formed by a spring of beautiful limpid water. One large bath is walled -round, with a covering of vines over a trellis roof. There are also -twenty small private baths, to which a great number of people resort -during the summer. The water after supplying the baths is employed in -turning a corn-mill, and then in the irrigation of several gardens. The -old alameda is also in the suburbs of San Lazaro: it is about half a -mile long, has a double row of willows and orange trees on each side, -enclosing shady foot walks with stone benches, and a carriage-way in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> -the middle. There are three old fountains in the carriage-way, and a -beautiful view of the convent and church of San Diego at the northern -extremity, having the <i>beaterio</i>, house of female seclusion, called the -Patrocinio, with a neat chapel, on one side, and the small chapel and -convent of the <i>recoleta de los Agonizantes</i>, on the other. On one side -of this alameda the Viceroy Amat had built a large shallow reservoir or -basin, with some beautiful lofty arches, like a portico, in the Grecian -order, at one end; also the necessary pipes were laid for conveying -water to the top of the central arch, from whence it was to have fallen -into the basin, forming a most beautiful cascade; but he was superseded -before the work was finished; and, as one Viceroy has seldom attended to -any thing left unfinished by his predecessor, this work, like the road -to Callao begun by the Viceroy Higgins, remains unfinished.</p> - -<p>To these public paseos such numbers of the fashionable inhabitants -resort on Sundays and other holidays, particularly in the afternoons, -that as many as three hundred carriages may sometimes be counted: the -richer tradesman in his calesa, drawn by one mule; the nobleman in his -coach and two; the titled of Castile in a coach and four; and formerly, -the Viceroy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> in his coach and six; he being the only person in Lima, -excepting the archbishop, who enjoyed this distinction. Gentlemen seldom -go in the coaches, so that the beauty of Lima have the temporary -privilege of riding alone, and nodding without reserve to their amorous -<i>galanes</i>, who parade the side walks. The <i>paseo de los alcaldes</i>, the -procession of new mayors, is in the old alameda, and is always an -occasion of great bustle, being on new year's day. The Viceroy never -attended, because his dignity would have been eclipsed by the brilliant -liveries and gay appearance of the alcaldes.</p> - -<p>The principal bathing places are Miraflores, one league from the city: -it is a pretty village, with several handsome <i>ranchos</i>, or cottages. -Chorrillos, two leagues from Lima; a large village, with a very neat -church, being a parish of indians. Here the descent to the sea is very -commodious, and those who prefer bathing to gaming generally visit this -place; but there is nevertheless a considerable portion of the latter -fashionable amusement here. Lurin is about seven leagues from the -capital, it is also a parish of indians, and a place of great resort for -the higher classes of gamesters:—the distance precludes a too numerous -concourse of the lower orders of society.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span></p><p>The piazzas of the plasa mayor are crowded every night from seven -o'clock till ten with the frail part of the female sex. A range of -tables with ices, lemonade, and other refreshments stand on the outside -of the piazzas, with benches for the weary and thirsty to rest upon. At -eight o'clock the <i>retreta</i>, the different bands of military music, -leave the palace door: this is a great attraction, and forms an excuse -for many a fair visitor to attend the piazza. The bridge, as has been -already mentioned, is another place for evening chit chat. The piazzas -are the genteel lounge on a Sunday and the morning of a holiday, when -they are generally much crowded.</p> - -<p>The <i>paseo de las lomas</i>, or <i>de los amancaes</i>, as it is called, is a -visit to the hills on the north side of Lima on the days of St. John and -St. Peter. The <i>amancaes</i>, yellow daffodils, being then in flower, the -hills are covered with them. At this time of the year the cattle are -driven from the farms to the mountains to feed; for as soon as the -<i>garuas</i>, fogs, begin, they are covered with verdure, so that the -principal incitement is to drink milk, eat custards, rice-milk, &c. In -the evening it is very amusing to see thousands of people in coaches, on -horseback, and on foot, returning to the city,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> almost covered with -daffodils, of which each endeavours to collect the largest quantity.</p> - -<p>One of the peculiarities which excites the attention of a stranger in -Lima is the tolling of the great bell of the cathedral at about -half-past nine in the morning: at this time the host at high mass is -elevated; the oracion bell is rung at sunset. In the morning the bustle -and noise in the market may be loud enough to astound an unaccustomed -observer, but the bell tolls, and instantaneously all is silent as the -tomb—not a whisper, not a footstep is heard; as if by enchantment all -in a moment becomes motionless; every one takes off his hat, many kneel -till the third knell is heard, when the bustle, noise, and confusion -again commence. In the evening the scene is repeated, the oracion bell -tolls, and motion ceases in every direction; the buyer and the seller -stand like statues, and the half spoken word hangs on the lips until the -third knell is heard, when crossing themselves devoutly, they bow to -each other, and a general "good night," <i>buena noche</i>, sets them at -liberty again to follow their avocations. I never could help admiring -this method of reminding every individual to thank his Creator for -blessings received during the day, and to crave his kind<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span> protection -during the night. I have often been pleased with the solemnity produced, -for, without entering any particular place of worship, a place perhaps -where the tenets are contrary to the religious creeds of many -individuals, all</p> - -<div class="center"><div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<div>"<span class="smcap">To Thee</span> whose temple is all space,</div> -<div>Whose altar, earth, sea, skies,"</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>may pray and praise in the manner their inclination or fancy may direct -them. If the curfew of England were tolled for the same purpose it would -perhaps be more consonant to the use of bells placed in a building -dedicated to God, than to the now obsolete order for extinguishing -fires, of which not one in a hundred knows the origin.</p> - -<p>Respecting the feasts of the church, that of Corpus Christi is very -splendid. The procession leaves the cathedral attended by all the civil -and military authorities holding large wax tapers, the different orders -of friars, the dean and chapter, and the archbishop, under a splendid -canopy, supported by twelve priests in their robes of ceremony, his -grace bearing the host or consecrated wafer, which is deposited in a -superbly rich hostiarium. The military force is drawn up in the square, -or plasa mayor, and after kneeling and pointing their bayonets to the -ground, the banners and flags being prostrated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span> as the sacrament passes, -they all join in the procession, falling in at its rear; and when the -archbishop turns round at the principal porch and blesses the people, -the artillery and musquetry fire a salute. The most particular feature -in this procession is the assistance of all the clubs or cofradias of -the Africans: each separate company has its appropriate national music -and songs, some of them carrying wooden idols on their heads, and -dancing about with them among those who belong to their confraternity.</p> - -<p>Santa Rosa, being a native of Lima, and patroness of America, has a -solemn feast and procession from the church of Santo Domingo to the -cathedral on the last day of August. It is generally attended by a great -number of ladies, wearing wreaths of red and white artificial roses -round their waists and the bottom of their <i>sayas</i>. The Viceroy and the -tribunals also attended in this procession.</p> - -<p>There are many other processions which it would be useless and -unentertaining to mention. Those of San Francisco and Santo Domingo -present the peculiarity of having the two effigies carried from their -respective churches, so as to meet in the plasa mayor, where they salute -each other by bows, &c., and are then carried to the church where the -feast is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span>celebrated. The host gives his right side to the guest, and -after the feast is concluded he accompanies him home to his own church. -On the day of San Francisco the friars of the order regale all the -prisoners in the different gaols with a good dinner; and those of Santo -Domingo do the same on the day of their patriarch.</p> - -<p>The publication of the bulls, once in two years, happened on the day of -St. Thomas the Apostle. The commissary-general was received at the door -of the cathedral under a pall or canopy: he carried a bull of the -crusade hung round his neck, and proceeded to the high altar, where he -delivered it to the notary-public of the crusade, who, although a -civilian, ascended the pulpit, and read the address of the -commissary-general to the congregation. After this high mass was -celebrated, and an appropriate sermon preached, setting forth the virtue -of the bulls, and the great benefit derived from their purchase. This -discourse in the year 1804 was rather ridiculous, because the King had -raised the price of the bull of the crusade, and the good priest had not -only to exhort the faithful to continue the holy practice of purchasing -the bull, but to reconcile them to the additional tax imposed. This, he -said, was to supply<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span> his Catholic Majesty with money for the purpose of -carrying on the war against the English and other heretics. Such is the -belief in the efficacy of these bulls, and so great is the revenue -derived from the sale of them, that the new governments of Chile, Buenos -Ayres, and, I was told, of Mexico and Colombia, re-printed them, and for -some time continued the hoax. A priest in Chile, of whom I inquired -whether the new government had a right to profit by a papal dispensation -granted to the King of Spain, their enemy, answered me very archly, that -a bull of the patria was as good as a bull of the pope; and that if the -Viceroy Pesuela had a right to take the money from the treasury of the -crusade at Lima, for the purpose of paying the expedition sent against -Chile, the government of Chile had only followed the Christian-like -example of their forefathers, who came to America for the purpose of -preaching the gospel, and thus saving from the power of satan the souls -of millions of infidels; but, continued he, laughing most heartily, if -they try it again, I dare say they will find themselves like the man who -went for wool and returned shorn: <i>que fue por lana, y volvio -trasquilado</i>.</p> - -<p>I was at Lima when the Viceroy Abascal made his public entrance, and -also when the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span> Viceroy Pesuela entered, who was probably the last that -ever will enter, (La Serna, the nominal Viceroy, being no better than a -traitor to Spain, having assumed the authority after he deposed Pesuela) -I shall therefore give a short description of this formal ceremony.</p> - -<p>On the arrival of the new Viceroy at Mansanilla, about four miles from -Lima, he sent an officer, with the title of Ambassador, to inform his -predecessor, that it being the will and pleasure of his Majesty that he -should take upon himself the government of the kingdom of Peru, he -should enter the capital the day following; a circumstance of which he -begged leave to apprize his Excellency, that he might be prepared to -resign the command, because his authority would cease: such being the -orders of the Sovereign. The Viceroy immediately sent a messenger to his -successor, to compliment him on his safe arrival. The two persons chosen -by the chiefs for this ceremony were rewarded by them respectively with -minor governments in Peru, this being the general custom; so that the -first and the last act of a Viceroy was to confer a favour on some -protegée. On the following morning the Viceroy Marquis de Aviles had an -interview with his successor Abascal, but he returned to dinner at the -palace, while<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span> his successor partook of a splendid dinner at Mansanilla, -to which the principal nobility were invited. In the afternoon the -Viceroy Aviles went in state to meet Abascal; they met on the road, and -each alighted from his carriage: Aviles here presented Abascal with a -gold headed cane or bâton, the insignia of the government of the -kingdom; they then stepped into each other's coach, and entered the -city, which on this occasion was splendidly adorned, all the streets -through which the cavalcade passed being hung with tapestry, silk -curtains, and other gay hangings. The steeples of the churches were -ornamented with flags, and every bell was ringing. When the Viceroy -Marquis de la Palata entered Lima in 1682, the streets through which the -procession passed were all paved with bars of silver. The new Viceroy -proceeded to his palace, where one of the alcaldes, deputed for the -purpose, waited his arrival, and received and acknowledged him on the -part of the city. On the following day all the courts, civil and -ecclesiastical, bodies corporate, and communities waited on him, and at -ten o'clock accompanied him to the cathedral, where Te Deum was -chaunted. On his return to the palace the archbishop called on the -Viceroy, who immediately afterwards returned<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span> the compliment; this is -the only visit which a Viceroy paid. At twelve o'clock the new Viceroy -went in state to the chamber of the audience, and took the oath of -administration. The Viceroy Abascal dispensed with many ceremonies which -Pesuela did not; I shall therefore subjoin them.</p> - -<p>A few days after the arrival of Pesuela in Lima, a day was fixed for his -entrance in state; the streets and steeples were ornamented as on the -public entrance, with the addition of several triumphal arches, one with -a gate was placed close to the church of Montserrat, near to the city -wall. The Viceroy left the city early in the morning for Callao, and -visited the fortifications; at nine o'clock he returned, and having -arrived at the gate, which was shut, the captain of the escort alighted -and knocked; the captain of the guard at the gate opened the postern, -and asked who was there? Being answered, the Viceroy and captain-general -of the kingdom, he closed the postern. The principal alcalde now -advanced and passed the postern, and the Viceroy alighted from his -horse, and the gate was thrown open: the alcalde then presented a golden -key to the Viceroy, who, and his retinue of chamberlain, groom, -chaplain, physician and pages, mounted their gaily caparisoned horses,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> -prepared by the city, and the procession began in the following order:—</p> - -<p>The cavalry then in the city; four pieces of artillery and the necessary -artillery-men; the city militia; the troops of the line; the colleges, -the university, the professors being dressed in the habits of their -respective professions; the chamber of accompts; all the members of the -audience, with their togas and golas, mounted on horses covered with -black velvet embroidered trappings; the magistracy in crimson velvet -robes, lined with crimson brocade, and small black caps on their heads. -Eight members of the corporation, regidores, walked supporting an -elegant crimson and gold canopy over the head of the Viceroy on -horseback, and the two alcaldes in their magisterial robes, acted as -equerries to his Excellency, holding the reins of his horse. The whole -cavalcade was closed by the body guard of halberdiers and that of -cavalry. It passed through several of the principal streets, and halted -in the plasa mayor, in front of the cathedral, where the archbishop and -chapter received the Viceroy as Vice-patron, and one of the minor canons -offered incense to him at the door. Being seated, Te Deum was chaunted, -after which the Viceroy mounted his horse and proceeded to his palace, -where a splendid <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span>dinner was provided for him by the city. On the -evening of this and the two following days grand balls and routs were -given at the palace to the nobility, and free admittance to the -<i>tapadas</i> was granted to the galleries, corridors, and gardens. The -tapadas are females who are either not invited, or their rank does not -allow them to attend in public, but who come to the fête covered, so as -to prevent their being known; a great deal of vivacity and spirited wit -is often heard among them. This manner of being present at any public -entertainment is general in South America, and it is almost impossible -to prevent it.</p> - -<p>Three days of bull fighting followed in honour of the Viceroy, and two -in honour of the ambassador who brought the news of his arrival; all at -the expence of the cabildo. These were held in the plasa mayor, which -was converted into a temporary circus on the occasion; there were also -performances at the theatre on the evenings of the same days.</p> - -<p>The university prepared for Pesuela a poetical wrangle, adapted to -display the ingenuity and learning of the professors and members. The -rector published the themes, and an account of the different prizes, -which consisted of pieces of plate. On the day appointed, the cloister<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span> -and courts of the university were adorned with splendid magnificence; -the pillars and walls were hung with emblematical devices, and with -shields containing poetical inscriptions in Latin and Spanish. On the -entrance of the Viceroy, he was conducted to the rectoral chair, -ornamented for the occasion, which with the canopy, cushions, and table -cover, had a most magnificent appearance. The rector took his seat -opposite to his Excellency, and in a formal manner expressed the -happiness which the university enjoyed in the presence of its -Vice-patron, with more flattery and more adulation than ever were -uttered by any other man. Several of the professors next addressed him, -in speeches as fulsome as need be; after which the rector rose, and -presented to Pesuela, on a silver salver of great value, four -nominations to the degree of doctor, which he had the privilege to give -to any of his protegées, certain that in their examination they would -not only pass for the nominations, but be excused the payment of the -honorarium, which is about a thousand dollars for each diploma. The -Viceroy was then conducted to the library, where a grand collation was -set out for himself and suite, after partaking of which he retired to -his palace. In the evening there was a splendid assembly, and -<i>refresco</i>,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span> a cold collation, prepared for those who had the honour of -an invitation, as well as the tapadas, who attend uninvited. On the -following day the salver, which cost two thousand dollars, was presented -to the Viceroy, with the nominations, by two deputies from the -university. A few days afterward the rector waited on the Viceroy and -presented him with a printed copy of the speeches, poetry, &c. elegantly -bound, and covered with crimson velvet, with gold clasps and other -ornaments.</p> - -<p>The colleges and convents had similar days of poetical contest, and each -of them presented his Excellency with an ornamented copy of their -effusions.</p> - -<p>Flattery in these cases knows no limits. All the prize productions were -signed with the names of the different individuals belonging to the -family of the Viceroy; so that all the prizes, being as I have said -pieces of plate, valuable both for the metal and workmanship, go to the palace.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Fruits in the Gardens of Lima....Flowers....Particular Dishes, or -Cookery....<i>Chuno</i>, dried Potatoes....<i>Chochoca</i>, dried -Maize....Sweetmeats....Meals....Diseases....Medical -Observations....On the Commerce of Lima....Profitable Speculations.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The south and east sides of Lima are covered with gardens and orchards -of the most delicious fruits, both tropical and equinoctial; towards the -east there are several gardens within the walls; but the greater number -are on the outside. Among the fruits known in European gardens, and -produced in great perfection at Lima, are several varieties of the -grape; for the colonial laws of Spain have not prohibited the -cultivation of the vine in Peru and Chile, as they have done in Mexico -and New Grenada. Olives grow in great abundance and of an excellent -quality; they are not preserved here, as in France, while small and -green, but are left on the trees till they are ripe, and are then -pickled in salt and water; others are pressed and dried, when they take -the appearance of prunes. Oil is made in considerable quantities,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span> but -it is not so fine nor so good as the French or Italian oils. The first -olive was brought to Peru in 1560 by Don Antonio de Ribera, a native of -Lima. Apples and pears prosper extremely well, though but few varieties -are cultivated. Peaches and apricots do well; of the former here are -many varieties; some called <i>aurimelos</i> and <i>priscos</i> are very delicate. -Nectarines, plums and cherries are scarce, and only to be found in a few -places; I have seen them in the gardens of Don Pedro de la Presa, who -laid out a most magnificent garden and orchard in the suburbs of San -Lazaro; besides which he built a stately house, and expended on both -more than two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. One of the gardens is -called de Don Jaime, the other is at Miraflores. Gooseberries or -currants I never saw in any part of South America, excepting some small -plants brought to Chile for Lord Cochrane, which, owing to inattention, -died. A wild species of currant, however, is common in some parts both -of Peru and Chile, but the fruit is small and bitter, perhaps through -want of cultivation. Several kinds of melons are produced in great -abundance and of fine flavour; the <i>sandias</i>, water melons, are large -and good. Figs are most plentiful, and well flavoured. The pomegranates<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span> -are fine and full of juice; the quinces also grow very large.</p> - -<p>Among the tropical and equinoctial fruits, the plantain and banana -ornament the orchards with their large green leaves, being the emblem of -luxuriant fertility: this luscious and wholesome fruit ministers to the -appetite of the rich, and satisfies the hunger of the poor. No native -will drink water immediately after eating the plantain, nor any thing -but water after the banana.</p> - -<p>Much has been said respecting the banana by several writers. Forster and -other naturalists pretend that it did not exist in America before the -conquest; but I consider the existence of it in the river Ucayale, where -it was found cultivated by the first missionaries, as well as in some of -the more internal parts of Maynas, and by Count Ruis in the valley of -St. Ana, to the eastward of Cusco, when first explored, and by myself in -Archidona and Napo, to the eastward of Quito, at Cocaniguas and Pite to -the westward—I look upon these facts as sufficient proofs to the -contrary; but what will place beyond a doubt, that the banana and -plantain are indigenous, is, that I have found beds of leaves of both -these plants in the huacas at Paramongo. Four varieties of the musa are -known in Lima, the <i>platano arton</i> (musa paradisiaca), the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span> <i>camburi</i> or -<i>largo</i> (musa sapientum), the <i>dominico</i> or <i>guinea</i> (musa regia), and -the <i>maiga</i> of the sea, called <i>de la isla</i>, the first plants being -brought from Otaheite, in the frigate Aguila, in 1769. Garcilaso de la -Vega, and Father Acosta, also assert, that the banana was cultivated -before the conquest. The former says, that in the warm and temperate -regions it constituted one of the principal sources of nourishment of -the natives; and the latter speaks of its being grown in the mountains -of las Emeraldas, where I have seen it myself, and particularly in some -old plantations, now uncultivated, called by the natives <i>Incas vicuri</i>, -bananas of the Incas. The sour and the sweet oranges, lemons, limes, -citrons, and shaddocks, grow in all the gardens, and contribute greatly -to their beauty. The trees at the same time are loaded with delicious -and beautiful fruit, both ripe and green; their delicate white flowers, -in clusters, shedding their perfume around: indeed, nothing can exceed -the beauty and fragrance of these trees during the greater part of the -year. I have seen orange trees, from forty to fifty feet high, covered -with large bunches of ripe oranges; but the gardeners generally keep -them at from ten to twenty feet high, because they then bear more fruit, -and also of a better quality.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span> The Lucuma is a large tree: the fruit is -round, and about the size of an orange; it has a green skin or rind, and -contains three large kidney shaped kernels covered with a very hard -shell: the eatable part is of a deep yellow colour, in substance and -appearance not unlike the yolk of a hard boiled egg: it is dry, and to -my taste not very palatable; but it is esteemed by many.</p> - -<p>The <i>Palta</i>, alligator pear or vegetable marrow, is sometimes round, and -sometimes pear shaped: the tree is large and handsome, the fruit is -contained in a coriaceous rind, having in the centre a large kernel, of -a brown colour and very harsh taste. It is often used as a dye, when it -gives a nankeen colour. It is also used for marking linen; this is -effected by spreading the linen over the kernel, and with a pin pricking -through it into the kernel an indelible mark is obtained. The eatable -part of the fruit is delicious; it is seasoned with salt, pepper, &c. -according to the palate, and its taste is similar to marrow: few persons -approve of this fruit at first, but almost all become passionately fond -of it afterwards. The <i>pacay</i> is a moderately sized tree; its fruit is -contained in a large green pod—there are several varieties—the pod of -one is sometimes more than a yard long and three inches broad. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span> -eatable part is a soft, cotton-like substance, which is sweet and juicy. -It envelops a black bean, and these frequently germinate in the pods, -and have a very curious appearance. The <i>guayaba</i>, guaba, grows in great -abundance, and here there are several varieties, some of which are very -good. The <i>granadilla</i> is a creeping plant, one of the varieties of the -passion flower; the fruit is of the shape and size of a duck's egg; the -shell is rather hard, of a brown hue, and contains a very delicate -substance full of small black seeds, in taste not unlike that of a ripe -gooseberry. Another variety of this fruit has a thick rind, the interior -being much like the common granadilla: it is called <i>de quixos</i>, -because, very probably, the first seed was brought from the woods in the -province of Quixos. The <i>tumbo</i> or <i>badea</i> is another variety, but the -fruit is as large as a moderate sized melon, which it nearly resembles -when cut, except that the seeds are of a brownish colour. It is commonly -prepared for the table by cutting the fleshy substance or outside into -small slices, and mixing them with the juicy inside and seeds, adding to -it sugar, wine, and spices; and in this state it is really delicious. -The <i>palillo</i> is the delicate custard-apple, which is very sweet and -fragrant. The females of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span> Lima often dry the rind or skin, and burn it -with other perfumes. The <i>capuli</i> is the cape gooseberry; it grows on a -small bush, and when ripe has an agreeable acid taste. The <i>chirimoya</i> -is often called the queen of fruits, and it undoubtedly deserves that -name. The tree is low and bushy; the flower is composed of three -triangular fleshy leaves; the appearance is mean, but its fragrance -surpasses that of any other flower which could be mentioned; however, it -only continues in perfection for one evening—indeed the fragrance is so -great, that one flower will scent a large room, and particularly if it -be warmed by enclosing it in the hand. The fruit has somewhat the shape -of a heart—the exterior is green, with a reticulated appearance, -occasioned more by brownish lines on the fruit than by any indented -marks, like the pine-apple: it contains several blackish seeds, about -the size of horse beans; but the larger the fruit the fewer are the -seeds. The eatable part is extremely delicate; it resembles a custard in -substance, and is generally eaten with a spoon. On the arrival of the -first Spaniards in Peru, the description they sent of this fruit to -Spain was, that it was a net filled with honey; for they knew of nothing -else to which they could compare it. Their weight in Lima is from one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span> -to three pounds each; but in the woods of Huanuco and Loxa they are -often found to weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds each and even more. -The <i>guanabana</i>, or sour sop, has greatly the appearance of the -chirimoya; but the fruit is generally larger as well as the flower, -which is also quite different. The fruit of the guanabana often grows on -the main trunk of the tree and on the largest branches, whilst the other -grows on the branches when they are two years old. The guanabana has a -grateful acid taste, and is often dissolved in water, which is -afterwards strained and sugar added to it, forming an agreeable -beverage: a very good jelly is also made from it as a preserve, which is -most delicately transparent. The <i>pepino</i> is an egg-shaped fruit, and -smells like a cucumber. Here are several varieties, and when ripe they -have a sweet but peculiar taste, between the raw vegetable and fruit: -they are considered unwholesome, and often called <i>mata serranos</i>, -mountaineer killers; because these people when they come down to the -coast eat large quantities of them, on account, perhaps, of their -cheapness: they bring on intermittent fevers, dysentery, &c. The <i>piña</i>, -pine-apple, is not cultivated in Lima, but brought from the neighbouring -valleys, where the climate is hotter. It does not thrive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span> well, but it -certainly would if a little care were taken of the plants during the -season when the easterly winds blow; for these winds are often very -sharp after passing over the Cordilleras. The date does not flourish in -Lima, owing to the same cause.</p> - -<p>The orchards here, unlike those of Europe, are always beautiful; -excepting the foreign fruit trees, which give a wintry appearance when -their branches become naked by the falling of the leaves, all the others -are evergreens, and appear in the pompous garb of spring during the -whole year. The new leaves take possession of their inheritance before -the death of their predecessors; and the inflorescence and -fructification in many trees follow the example of the leaf. The highly -rich green of the banana and plantain, their enormous leaves rustling -with every breeze, and discovering their pendent bunches of fruit; the -orange tree enamelled with green and white and gold; the pomegranate -with its crimson bell; the shady chirimoya breathing aromas to the -evening breeze; the tripping granadilla stretching from tree to tree, -and begging support for its laden slender branches; the luxuriant vine -creeping over trellises, and hiding under its cooling leaves the -luscious grape—are beauties certainly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span> not to be surpassed; but these, -and all these, are found in every garden in the valley through which the -Rimac meanders.</p> - -<p>The flower gardens here contain most of the varieties seen in our -gardens in England, excepting the family of ranunculuses and tulips, -neither of which did I ever see in South America; indeed, the climate is -so favourable to all kinds of vegetation, where water can be procured -for irrigation, that little care is required; but less than what is -necessary is usually bestowed. The ladies are passionately fond of -flowers, and will give very high prices for them. I have known a white -lily, a little out of season, sold for eight dollars; and good hyacinths -for two or three dollars each; and I am certain that a clever gardener -and florist, who would take to Lima a stock of seeds and roots, would -very soon amass a considerable fortune. I have observed that the -generality of the flowers of indigenous plants are yellow; and it is a -common saying, <i>oro en la costa, plata en la sierra</i>, gold on the coast, -silver in the mountains, where the general colour of wild flowers is -white. The <i>floripondio</i> is very much admired by many for its fragrance: -it partakes of that of the lily; the tree is bushy, and grows about ten -feet high. The flowers are white, each<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span> about eight inches long, bell -shaped, and hang in clusters: one tree will scent a large garden; but if -there are more the smell is overpowering, and produces headache. The -<i>suche</i> is a great spreading tree, and is filled with clusters of -flowers, each about two inches in diameter, which are the largest kind, -and others about an inch: they are bell-shaped, and of a fleshy -substance; some are white, others yellow, and others of a pink colour; -all are very fragrant. The <i>aroma</i> bears a number of round yellow -flosculous flowers, deserving their name, for they are most delicately -fragrant.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Lima have many dishes peculiar to the place. The -Spanish <i>olla podrida</i>, called <i>puchero</i>, is found almost on every -table: it is composed of beef, mutton, fowl, ham, sausage, and smoked -meats, mixed with casava root, sweet potatoe, cabbage, turnips and -almost any vegetables, a few peas, and a little rice—these are all well -boiled together, and form the standing family dish: bread or vermicelli -soup is made from the broth. <i>Lahua</i> is a thick porridge from the flour -of maize boiled with meat, particularly fresh pork or turkey, and highly -seasoned with the husks of the ripe capsicum. <i>Carapulca</i> consists of -dried potatoes, nuts, or garbansas, parched and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span> bruised, and afterwards -boiled to a thick consistency with meat, like the lahua. <i>Pepian</i> is -made from rice flour, and partakes of the ingredients of the lahua and -the pepian; it is a very favourite dish, and the natives say, that on -being presented to the pope by an American cook, he exclaimed, <i>felice -indiani, qui manducat pepiani</i>! <i>Chupi</i>, which is made by cooking -potatoes, cheese and eggs together, and afterwards adding fried fish, is -a favourite dish, not only on days of abstinence, but during the whole -year. Guinea pigs, <i>cuis</i>, make a very delicate dish; they are roasted, -and afterwards stewed with a great quantity of capsicum pods, pounded to -the consistency of paste: sometimes potatoes, bruised nuts, and other -ingredients are added. This is the favourite <i>picante</i>, and to my taste -is extremely delicate. Many more dishes, peculiar to the country, are -seen on the tables, all of which are seasoned with a profusion of lard, -and not a small quantity of garlic and capsicum.</p> - -<p>I have mentioned dried potatoes—they are thus prepared: small potatoes -are boiled, peeled, and then dried in the sun, but the best are those -dried by the severe frosts on the mountains; they will keep for any -length of time, and when used require to be bruised and soaked. If -introduced as a vegetable substance in long sea<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</a></span> voyages, I think the -potatoe thus prepared would be found wholesome and nourishing. The dried -potatoe is sometimes ground into flour; this is called chuno, and is -used to make a kind of porridge, either with or without meat.</p> - -<p>The maize, whilst green, is prepared in the same manner, by boiling the -cobs, cutting off the grains and drying them; this is called chochoca, -and is cooked like the chuno.</p> - -<p>Great quantities of pumpkins and gourds are eaten, and form the -principal part of the vegetable food of the poor classes; they are -large, plentiful and cheap, and will keep nearly the whole year if -placed in a dry room. Maize and beans, <i>frijoles</i>, are in general use -among the lower classes, indeed I may say among all classes, but they -are the common food of the slaves: the bean is considered very -nutritious, and those who have been accustomed to eat it prefer it to -any other vegetable, and use it as an equivalent for animal food.</p> - -<p>An abundance of sweetmeats is eaten in South America, more, I believe, -than in any other country, and particularly in Lima, where there is such -a variety of fruit, and such plenty of sugar; but there is a great -defect in the preserves, which are always too sweet, either from a -superabundance of sugar, or by <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span>destroying the flavour of the fruit -before it is preserved; the citron and shaddock, which have a taste so -agreeable and even powerful, always lose it when preserved. A paste is -made by pounding together equal weights of blanched almonds and sugar; -it is then packed in chip boxes, and will keep for a long time; by -dissolving a small quantity in water, an excellent substitute for milk -is formed, which is very palatable with tea, and would be found useful -in long voyages.</p> - -<p>The usual breakfast hour at Lima is eight o'clock; they seldom take more -than a cup of thick chocolate with toast, and a glass of cold water -afterwards; or sometimes a little boiled mutton, fried eggs, ham, or -sausage. The dinner hour is one o'clock. It is a very plentiful meal, -and may indeed be considered the only one during the day; soup and -<i>puchero</i> are generally the first dishes, the rest come to table -indiscriminately, and fish is not unfrequently the last, excepting -sweetmeats, after which a glass of cold water is always drunk. Coffee is -often brought in immediately after dinner; but in the higher classes the -company rise from table and adjourn to another room, where coffee and -liquors are placed. Fruit is commonly introduced between the services, -as it is considered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span> more wholesome to eat it then than afterwards. In -the evening a cup of coffee or chocolate is taken, or a glass of -lemonade, pine-apple water, almond milk, or some other refreshing drink, -and among the higher circles chocolate and ices are served up.</p> - -<p>The following account of the diseases prevalent in Lima is from Dr. -Unanue:—</p> - -<p>"Heat and humidity are the two great causes of disease in this climate; -the first predisposes and the second excites it. The suavity of the -climate promotes the pleasures of Venus, and produces those of Ceres, -and both contribute to enervate and relax the tone of the human frame. -The first symptoms of debility present themselves in the digestive -organs, and many infants, constitutionally weak, die of convulsions -produced by indigestion: epileptic affections are very common when -children begin to eat ordinary food. Young people suffer much from -cholics, particularly in autumn, owing to the debility of the stomach, -caused by excessive transpiration; indeed the inhabitants of Lima are so -well aware of the weakness of their digestive organs, that they -attribute every indisposition to <i>empacho</i>, indigestion. Owing to the -same constitutional weakness of the stomach, youth are very apt to -become afflicted with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</a></span> phthisis and asthma, and many who escape from -these affections, if they indulge their passions, are afterwards borne -down by obstructions of the abdominal viscera and dropsies, which, owing -to the dampness of the climate, are incurable. The functions of the -internal and external vessels becoming inverted, those being surrounded -by a body of water, these augment it incessantly by absorbing an -abundance from the humid atmosphere. Lima is often called <i>el pais de -los viejos</i>, the country of old people, because they generally live -abstemiously, and instances of extreme longevity are not uncommon."</p> - -<p>An extract from medical observations made by Dr. Unanue, in the year -1799, may serve to convey an idea of the particular diseases prevalent -during the different seasons, beginning with the month of January, at -which time the summer solstice commences.</p> - -<p>"In January the small pox made its appearance, hemorrhages and bilious -diarrhœas were common; these were followed by eruptive fevers in -February. During this and the succeeding month violent catarrhs and -coughs were prevalent, particularly among children, and those adults who -were affected with asthma suffered very much. In some years, when the -summers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span> have been oppressively warm, copious perspirations and -<i>lipirias</i> (cholera morbus) have been known to afflict many persons, but -they were not observed in 1799.</p> - -<p>"During March, April, and the beginning of Autumn, intermittent fevers -were very common, particularly the tertian, often accompanied with -dysentery; in May and the beginning of June dry and violent coughs were -observed, that produced an irritation of the throat and sometimes small -ulcers.</p> - -<p>"During July quinsies afflicted several people, and cutaneous eruptions -(exanthemata milliaria) were frequent, intestinal inflammations and -dysentery were also prevalent; and during the months of August and -September pulmonic inflammations and pleurisies were frequent.</p> - -<p>"Inflammations of the lungs were common during the month of October, as -also bilious diarrhœa; during this month the autumnal tertian began -to disappear; in November many died of the dysentery, and cutaneous -eruptions were very common. Out of 4229 patients received into the -hospital of San Andres this year 317 died."</p> - -<p>I have observed that syphilis is never very virulent in Lima and on the -coasts of Peru, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span> in the interior, particularly in cold situations, -it is more prevalent and more severe.</p> - -<p><i>Berrugas</i>, warts of a peculiar kind, are common in some of the valleys -of the coast. They are supposed to be caused either by drinking or being -washed by the waters of certain rivers. The first symptoms are most -excruciating pains in the legs, thighs and arms (the parts where the -warts generally make their appearance), which frequently last for one or -even several months. When the warts begin to appear the pain is -relieved, and when they burst a large quantity of blood is discharged, -the pain ceases, and the patient recovers. No medicines are ever -administered for this disease, the natives believing that patience is -the only remedy. They carefully keep themselves warm, and avoid wetting -themselves, because it often produces spasms, and sometimes death.</p> - -<p>In 1803 a new disease made its appearance during the summer in the -valley of Huaura, and proved mortal to many individuals, particularly -indians and negroes, to whom it seemed to be almost confined; for few or -no white people were infected by it. The first appearance was a small -pustule, the centre depressed, bearing a small purple spot; as it -extended, several other small pustules arose on the edges of the -original<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span> one, filled with a limpid fluid; these pustules increased to a -large size, having the resemblance of blisters raised by burning. If an -incision were made in the part affected, no blood flowed, nor did the -patient feel the operation; the flesh had a spongy appearance, and a -very pale red colour. If not relieved, the patient usually died between -the fifth and tenth day, and sometimes earlier. The method of cure -adopted was the total extraction of the diseased part, and the -application of a poultice. This disease was called by the natives <i>grano -de la peste</i>, pest pimple.</p> - -<p>The <i>uta</i> is another disease known in some of the valleys of Peru. It is -supposed to proceed from the sting of a small insect; however the fact -has never been ascertained. The first appearance is a small, hard, red -tumour; this bursts, and the fluid it contains produces an incurable -sore, which gradually extends, and at last occasions the most aggravated -sufferings, till death brings relief to the afflicted patient.</p> - -<p>I shall conclude my account of Lima with some observations on its -commerce, particularly that part which is interesting to British -manufacturers.</p> - -<p>Callao being the principal port of Peru, and the only one denominated -<i>abilitado general</i>, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</a></span> free for the ingress and egress of vessels to -and from every part of the Spanish dominions, Lima was consequently the -general market for all foreign as well as home commerce, and here the -traders from the provinces repaired with such productions as were -destined for exportation, as well as to purchase a stock of manufactured -goods, either foreign or from other parts of the country, besides such -raw materials as were necessary for mining tools and those of husbandry.</p> - -<p>Owing to the diversity of the climates in the Vice-royalty of Peru, all -kinds of European manufactured goods find a ready sale; those from -England are mostly preferred to any other: indeed many can only be -procured from that country; and the supplying of those by Great Britain -to a population of a million and a half of people must be considered as -a means of extending her commerce, and the decided preference given to -them must be highly flattering as well as beneficial to the British -nation.</p> - -<p>On entering a house in Lima, or in any other part of Peru that I -visited, almost every object reminded me of England; the windows were -glazed with English glass—the brass furniture and ornaments on the -commodes, tables, chairs, &c. were English—the chintz or dimity -hangings, the linen and cotton dresses of the females, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span> the cloth -coats, cloaks, &c. of the men were all English:—the tables were covered -either with plate or English earthenware, and English glass, knives, -forks, &c.; and even the kitchen utensils, if of iron, were English; in -fine, with very few exceptions, all was either of English or South -American manufacture. Coarse cottons, nankeens, and a few other articles -were supplied by the Philippine company. Spain sent some iron, broad -cloth, Barcelona prints, linen, writing paper, silks, and ordinary -earthenware. From the Italians they had silks and velvets; from the -French, linens, lace, silks and broad cloth; from Germany, linens -(platillas), common cutlery and glass; every thing else was either -English or of home manufacture.</p> - -<p>I do not hesitate to assert, that goods of a superior quality always -meet with early purchasers, because those who can afford to buy foreign -goods always inquire for the best; and the more modern and fashionable -the goods are, the better and the quicker is the sale. Thick broad -cloths, in imitation of the Spanish San Fernando cloth, are best for the -interior; and thin fine cloth, in imitation of the French sedan cloth, -is most suitable for Lima. The Manchester broad flannels, either twilled -or plain, with a long nap, dark and light blue,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</a></span> crimson and pink, -bright green, pale yellow, brown, white, and any shades or half colours, -are very saleable commodities, either on the coast or in the interior. -Kerseymeres, cords, and velveteens; Irish linens and common lawns cut -into pieces of eight yards each, in imitation of the French bretagnes -and estopillas; coarse linen in pieces of about thirty yards, imitating -the German platillas; and fine Scotch cambrics, as well as table linen, -sheeting, &c., meet a great demand. All kinds of cotton goods, -particularly stockings, muslins, and fashionable prints of delicate -colours; also dark blue prints with small white sprigs, &c., which are -used for mourning by every class, are in common use among the poor; -besides dimities, jeans, and white quilts (Marseilles), which are all -very saleable articles. Silks, damask (crimson), ribbons, particularly -narrow, and good velvets (black), are in great demand. Glass and -earthenware, all kinds of hardware and cutlery (few forks), mechanics' -tools, large hammers and wedges for the miners, spades, shovels, -pickaxes, &c.; quicksilver, in the mining districts, also iron and -steel, are saleable articles. Trinkets are not in much estimation, -because the inhabitants seldom wear any that are not of gold and -precious gems. Hats are well made in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span> Lima, and the materials are of the -best quality. Shoes and boots are another manufacture in which the -natives excel, and their materials are tolerably good. The cordovans -from Lambayeque are excellent. Drugs are extremely dear, for even those -produced in different parts of the Spanish colonies are generally first -sent to Europe, and thence back again, except, in Lima, the chinchona -bark, sarsaparilla, copaiva balsam, guaiacum, and some others, the -produce of Peru.</p> - -<p>I shall have occasion to mention, at different places, the utility that -would result from the introduction of machinery, not only as it was -evinced at the date of my narrative, but as rendered more apparent by -the subsequent political changes of the country.</p> - -<p>In Lima, an intelligent Spaniard, Don Matias de la Reta, established -looms and other machinery for weaving cotton sail-cloth, and some coarse -articles of the same material. At his death the manufactory was -abandoned; but there is no doubt that the plan would have answered well -had the projector lived. At present (1824) a pottery or manufactory of -common earthenware would be a very lucrative establishment; as also, a -work for ordinary glass ware; because the materials for both may be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span> had -conveniently, and of good qualities: the consumption of both is very -great, and their prices comparatively high. Indeed, if the introduction -of either will pay the freight and other indispensable charges, it is -evident that a speculation of this kind could not fail. All the -earthenware for ordinary purposes is manufactured here; but it is heavy, -and very clumsy: however, as it is, large quantities are sent to -different parts of the country.</p> - -<p>Good steady mechanics—carpenters, cabinet makers, millwrights, -blacksmiths, whitesmiths, silversmiths, watchmakers or repairers, -shoemakers, and tailors, would meet with constant work and good wages; -but it would be advisable for each artificer to take a supply of tools -with him. I mention this on account of the changes that have occurred in -the governments; because during the colonial system, a foreigner was -liable to be ordered to leave the country at a very short notice; but, -notwithstanding that risk, several were established in Lima in 1808 and -the succeeding years, and were never interrupted.</p> - -<p>The subjoined is an account of the prices of some articles, which will -convey an idea of the profits derived by the merchants, principally<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span> old -Spaniards, before the revolutions in America affected this market.</p> - -<blockquote><p>Good broad cloth, per yard, from 18 to 20 dollars.—Kerseymeres -from 7 to 10—Broad coloured flannels from 3 to 4—Fine Irish Linen -from 3 to 4—Fine German platillas from 1½ to 3—Ordinary German -platillas from 1 to 2—Fine French lawn from 3 to 4—Fine French -cambric from 10 to 12—Printed calicoes 2 to 3½—Fine printed -calicoes from 3 to 4½—Fine muslins from 3 to 5—Fine cambric -muslins from 3 to 5—Silk velvet from 10 to 12—Fine velveteens -2½ to 4. Blue and white earthenware plates, per dozen, from 12 -to 18 dollars—Common German half-pint glasses from 8 to 12—Common -knives with bone handles from 10 to 12—Common knives with wood -handles from 6 to 8.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Much has been said by every writer on South America respecting the -Spanish colonial restrictions. They certainly were, like all others, -most severe, until experience proved to the government of the parent -state, that it was not the welfare of the individuals or of particular -companies or corporations employed in commerce, that could enrich the -government. The Conde de Aranda, when prime minister in Spain, was well -apprized of this truth, and what was really sound policy in him was -called liberality. However, as Peru was at so great a distance from -Europe, she never was so much oppressed as those colonies on the -opposite side of the new world.</p> - -<p>The returns from this market have been gold, silver, and tin; bark, -cocoa, cotton, vicuña wool, sheep wool, and some drugs.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XV.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Visit to Pisco....Town of Pisco....Bay of Pisco....Curious -Production of Salt....<i>Huano</i>....<i>Huanaes</i>....Vineyards, -Brandy....Vineyards <i>de las Hoyas</i>....Fruits....Chilca, Village of -Indians....Leave Lima, Road to Chancay....Pasamayo House....<i>Nina -de la Huaca</i>....Maize, Cultivation Use of <i>Huano</i>....Hogs....On the -produce of Maize....Different kinds of....Time of -Harvesting....Uses of....Chicha of....Sugar of....Town of -Chancay....<i>Colcas</i>....Town of Huacho....<i>Chacras</i> of the -Indians....On the Character of the Native Indians....Refutation of -what some Authors have said of....Manners and Customs -of....Tradition of Manco Capac....Ditto Camaruru....Ditto -Bochica....Ditto Quitzalcoatl....These Traditions favourable to the -Spaniards....Government of Manco Capac....Representation of the -Death of the Inca....Feast of Corpus Christi at Huacho....Indian -Dances....Salinas.</p></blockquote> - -<p>During my residence in Lima, I availed myself of an invitation to visit -the city of Pisco, about fifty leagues to the southward. This place, -although it bears the name of a city, is only a miserable village. The -present town is situated about two leagues to the northward of the old -one. It was sacked in 1624 by the Dutch pirate, James Hermit Clark—in -1686 by Edward David—and in 1687 it was entirely demolished by an -earthquake; after which, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span> new town was begun to be built, about a -league from the shore.</p> - -<p>The bay is very large, and the anchorage good, but the landing is -difficult near the small battery, erected for the purpose of protecting -the landing place; it is better however at <i>las Palmas</i>, about two -leagues higher up the bay, called <i>la Paraca</i>, and fresh water, which is -very difficult to procure near the fort, may be had here. At the -southern extremity of the bay, beneath a bed of broken indurated clay -and sand stones, a stratum of salt is found, extending from fifty to one -hundred yards from the sea, and sometimes more. On removing the upper -covering of sand, the broken stones and the clay, the salt is -discovered, forming a kind of small white columns, about three or four -inches long, the upper part curling, as it were, and hanging downwards -again, the whole appearing somewhat like a cauliflower. It is extremely -white, and composed of transparent filaments not so large as a human -hair. I examined these slender bodies with a good lens; they all -appeared perfectly cylindrical and hollow, closely placed together, but -not attached to each other, for by a slight pressure they separated, -assuming the appearance of asbestos. The salt is as palatable as the -common culinary salt, dissolves slowly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span> in a large quantity of cold -water, and is not at all deliquescent from absorption. It is seldom used -by the inhabitants, except when there is a scarcity of salt from Huacho.</p> - -<p>Some small islands at the entrance to the bay of Pisco are famous for -the manure which they produce, and which is embarked and carried to -different parts of the coast, and often into the interior on the backs -of mules and llamas. The quantity of this manure is enormous, and its -qualities are truly astonishing; of this I shall have occasion to speak -when treating of the cultivation of maize at Chancay. Several small -vessels are constantly employed to carry it off; some of the cuts, where -embarkation is convenient, are from forty to fifty feet deep, and their -bottom is yet considerably above the level of the sea.</p> - -<p>This valuable production appears to be the excrement of sea birds, -immense numbers of which frequent and breed on the islands; and the -accumulation is doubtless owing to the total absence of rain. It is of a -pale brown colour when dry, and easily reducible to powder; when fresh -it has rather a reddish appearance; the surface stratum for a foot deep -is whitish, and contains feathers, bones of birds, and shells of eggs. -It is asserted, that the <i>huano</i>, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span> name by which this production is -known, is certainly fossil earth; but the quality of the upper stratum, -which although at first white, gradually inclines to yellow, being -incontestibly the excrement of birds, and equal to the other, the -subject seems to demand a stricter scrutiny.</p> - -<p>A species of birds frequenting these islands in great abundance is -called <i>huanay</i>: hence the original name of the matter now used as -manure. The bird is of black plumage, is as large as the seagull, and -breeds during the whole year, with this peculiarity, that each nest, -being only a hole in the huano, contains a fledged bird, an unfledged -one, and one egg; whence it appears, that there is a constant -succession, without the old birds undergoing the confinement of brooding -their eggs. The indians take many of the young birds, salt them, and -consider them a great delicacy; however they have a strong fishy taste.</p> - -<p>The principal produce of the neighbourhood of Pisco, including the -valleys of Chincha and Cañete, is vines, from which about one hundred -and fifty thousand gallons of brandy are annually made. The brandy is -kept in earthen jars, each holding about eighteen gallons. The vessels -are made in the neighbourhood; their shape is that of an inverted cone, -and the inside is coated with a species of naptha. The brandy, -generally<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span> called pisco, from the name of the place where it is made, is -of a good flavour, and is not coloured, like the French brandy. One -kind, made from the muscadine grape, and called <i>aguardiente de Italia</i>, -is very delicate, possessing the flavour of Frontignac wine, and is much -esteemed. Little wine is made, and that little is of a very inferior -quality; it is generally thick and sweet, owing perhaps to the juice of -the grape being boiled for a considerable time before it is fermented.</p> - -<p>Near to Pisco is a vineyard called <i>de las hoyas</i>, of the pits, or -holes; these are excavations made originally by the indians, or -aborigines, who being well versed in agriculture, cleared away the sand, -and opened a species of pits, in search of humidity. This immense labour -was occasioned by the difficulty or impossibility of procuring water -from the river Cañete for irrigation. The original use of the hoyas was -perhaps the growth of maize or camotes; but vines are now planted in -them, which produce most abundantly, requiring no other cultivation or -care than merely pruning, for the branches are allowed to stretch along -the sands.</p> - -<p>The vine planters monopolized the making of spirituous liquors in Peru. -They procured from the King of Spain, Carlos III., a royal order,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</a></span> -prohibiting the manufacture of any ardent spirit in Peru, except from -the grape; and the importation of spirits subjected the importers to -very severe penalties; for having also represented to the pope, Clement -XIV., the destructive qualities of any other spirituous liquors in Peru, -the royal order was backed by a papal excommunication, fulminated -against all contrafactors and contraventors.</p> - -<p>Dates abound, and when properly dried are superior to those of the -coasts of Barbary. Here are many prolific plantations of olives; the -figs are also very good, and pine-apples prosper well.</p> - -<p>In the valley of Chincha are several large sugar plantations; two belong -to the Count de Montemar y Monteblanco, and one near the coast, called -Caucato, to Don Fernando Maso, where there is an extensive manufactory -of soap. The number of slaves on the plantations of Chincha, Pisco, and -Cañete is estimated at about eight thousand.</p> - -<p>Between Pisco and Lima there is an indian village, called Chilca; it is -on a sandy plain, devoid of water as well as vegetation; the natives -often procure water by digging pits in the sand, but these sometimes -fail them, and they are then obliged to fetch this indispensably -necessary article from the Cañete river, a distance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</a></span> of five leagues. -The principal occupation of the inhabitants is fishing; they are very -averse to the society of the whites, so much so that they allow none to -reside in their village; even their parish priest is an indian cacique, -a native of the village, whose education, and the expences of his -ordination were paid by a subscription raised by them for the purpose.</p> - -<p>Five leagues to the northward of Lima is the small port of Ancon, the -residence of a few indian fishermen; the anchorage is good, and the -landing is excellent. A few large fig trees grow on the sand, near the -beach, the fruit of which is extremely delicate.</p> - -<p>The road leading from Ancon to Chancay is over very deep sand; some -parts of the road are level, while others lead over hills of sand, quite -bare in summer or during the dry season: but scarcely do the <i>garuas</i>, -fogs, make their appearance, when the whole is covered with the most -luxuriant vegetation; at which time the cattle is driven on them from -the neighbouring farms.</p> - -<p>Near to Chancay, before crossing the small river, stands the old family -residence of the Marquis of Villafuerte, almost in ruins; this is the -case with many of the country seats belonging to the nobility of Lima, -who have no idea of country pleasures, nor of rural beauties. Many<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</a></span> of -the principal country houses are built on the ruins of some ancient -building of the indians: these people never encroached on cultivated -lands, but fixed their residence either on the declivities where they -could not procure water for irrigation, or on the tops of the hills; -which is a convincing proof of their great economy, and leads us to -surmise that the population of this country was very extensive before -the conquest. This estate, called Pasamayo, is principally destined to -the breeding of hogs for the Lima market.</p> - -<p>Pasamayo house, standing on the top of a hill, commands a noble prospect -of the sea, as well as of the valley of Chancay, in which there is a -small parish of indians, called Aucayama, most delightfully situated: in -1690 the tribute roll contained three thousand seven hundred indians, -but it is at present (1805) composed of only one hundred and seventy. Of -this decrease in the indian population I shall have occasion to speak -afterwards, when at Huacho. The valley of Chancay contains some fine -plantations of cane, and sugar manufactories; as also extensive pastures -of lucern for cattle; and very large quantities of maize and beans are -grown in the neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>This valley is the birth place of the celebrated <i>Niña de la huaca</i>, -young lady of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</a></span> huaca, taking her name from the huaca, the farm where -she was born. She stood six feet high, which was a very extraordinary -stature, as the Peruvian females are generally low. Extremely fond of -masculine exercises, nothing was more agreeable to her than to assist in -apprehending runaway slaves, or in taking the robbers who sometimes -haunt the road between this place and Lima. She would mount a spirited -horse, <i>al uso del pais</i>, astride, arm herself with a brace of pistols, -and a <i>hasta de rejon</i>, a lance, and with three or four men she would -scour the environs of the valley and the road to Lima, where she became -more dreaded than a company of <i>encapados</i>, or mounted police officers. -I visited her at her residence, and found her better instructed in -literature than the generality of the native females; she was frank, -obliging, and courteous, managing her own estate, a sugar plantation, to -the best advantage, superintending the whole of the business herself.</p> - -<p>The quantity of maize cultivated in the ravine, <i>quebrada</i>, and on the -plains of Chancay, is very great; but the cultivators are indebted to -the huano from the islands of Pisco and Chincha for their abundant -harvest. I have seen the fields quite yellow, from the parched state of -the plants, when they were about a foot high, having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span> four or five -leaves each, at which time they are manured, by opening a hole at the -root of every three or four plants, for they grow in clusters of this -number, and putting into it, with the fingers, about half an ounce of -huano, which is covered with a little earth, thrown on by the foot. The -field is then irrigated as soon as possible; and in the course of ten or -twelve days the plants will be more than a yard high, of a most -luxuriant green colour, and the stalks pregnant with the cobs of corn. A -second quantity of huano is now applied in the same manner, and the -ground again irrigated; and thus the most abundant crops are produced, -yielding from one thousand to twelve hundred fold. The cobs are -frequently fourteen and even sixteen inches long, well set with grain, -and the grain very large. Beans are often planted with the maize, by -which means a double crop is produced; but in this case the maize is not -so prolific, nor are the beans so good, because the best quality of the -bean is grown without irrigation, being sown long before the <i>garuas</i> -disappear, and being ripe earlier than the maize.</p> - -<p>Chancay is famous for the breeding and feeding of hogs for the Lima -Market: the hogs are all black, with little or almost no hair, short<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</a></span> -snouts, small pointed ears, and of a low stature; but they become so -amazingly fat, that they can scarcely walk; and as their value depends -on the quantity of fat which they yield, it is the principal object of -the feeder to bring them to this state as soon as possible. When killed, -the whole of the body is fried, and the fat is sold as lard for culinary -purposes. The consumption of lard in every part of Peru is enormous, and -it is principally owing to the abundance of maize that the <i>hacendados</i>, -farmers, enjoy this lucrative trade.</p> - -<p>Maize grows on the ridges of the Cordilleras where the mean temperature -is about 48° of Fahrenheit, and on the plains or in the valleys where it -is 80°,—where the climate is adverse to rye and barley, and where wheat -cannot be produced, either owing to the heat or the cold, this grain, -whose farinaceous property has the greatest volume, produces its seed -from 150 to 1200 fold. Thus it may be said to be the most useful grain -to man; and it is peculiarly adapted to the country in which it was -planted by the provident hand of nature. On this account, the maize -occupies in the scale of the various kinds of cultivation a much greater -extent on the new continent than that of wheat does on the old.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</a></span></p><p>It has been erroneously stated, that maize was the only species of -grain known to the Americans before the conquest. In Chile, according to -Molina, the <i>mager</i>, a species of rye, and the <i>tuca</i>, a species of -barley, were both common before the fifteenth century; and as there was -neither rye nor barley, it is evident that if they were common even -after the conquest, and not European grain, that they were indigenous. -In Peru the bean and quinua were common before the conquest, for I have -frequently found them in the huacas, preserved in vases of red -earthenware. Some writers have pretended that the maize, which is also a -native of Asia, was brought over by the Spaniards to their colonies in -the new world. This is so evidently false, that it does not deserve -contradiction: indeed, if the aborigines were destitute of maize, beans, -plantains, and all those articles of food which have been said to be -introduced by the Europeans, a new query would arise—on what did the -numerous population of indians feed? For what purpose did they cultivate -such large tracts of land, and why procure water for irrigation on the -coasts of Peru with such immense labour, and such extraordinary -ingenuity? Why did the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</a></span>Peruvians always build their houses in such -sterile situations as labour could never have made fertile?</p> - -<p>I have enumerated five varieties of maize in Peru; one is known by the -name of <i>chancayano</i>, which has a large semi-transparent yellow grain; -another is called <i>morocho</i>, and has a small yellow grain of a horny -appearance; <i>amarillo</i>, or the yellow, has a large yellow opaque grain, -and is more farinaceous than the two former varieties: <i>blanco</i>, white; -this is the colour of the grain, which is large, and contains more -farina than the former; and <i>cancha</i>, or sweet maize. The last is only -cultivated in the colder climates of the <i>sierra</i>, mountains; it grows -about two feet high, the cob is short, and the grains large and white: -when green it is very bitter; but when ripe and roasted it is -particularly sweet, and so tender, that it may be reduced to flour -between the fingers. In this roasted state it constitutes the principal -food of the <i>serranos</i>, mountaineers, of several provinces. It is -considered a delicacy at Lima and all along the coast, and without a bag -full of this roasted maize a serrano never undertakes a journey. It is -sometimes roasted, and reduced to coarse flour, like the ulpa in Chile, -and is then called <i>machica</i>.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</a></span></p><p>According to the climate, and the kind of maize, its state of -perfection or ripeness varies very much—from fifty days to five months. -The morocho is ripe within sixty days in climates that are very hot and -humid, as for instance at Guayaquil, and on the coast of Choco: the -blanco within three months, in the vicinity of Lima and on the Peruvian -coast, <i>valles</i>: and the chancayano in about five months. The last is -the most productive, and the best food for cattle, poultry, &c.</p> - -<p>Although wheat and barley are cultivated in different parts of Peru, -maize is generally considered the principal harvest; and where barley is -even commoner than maize, (as in some of the more elevated provinces of -the interior, and where it constitutes the principal article of food for -the indians) they all greatly prefer the maize, if attainable, and will -always exert themselves to cultivate a small patch of ground for this -grain. Thus, where it is not used for daily food, or calculated upon as -an article of trade, it is considered as a species of luxury. Among the -indians and poor people on the coast it supplies the place of bread; for -which purpose it is merely boiled in water, and is then called <i>mote</i>. -Puddings are also made of it, by first taking off the husk. This -operation is performed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</a></span> by putting a quantity of wood ashes into water -with the maize, exposing it to a boiling heat, and washing the grain in -running water, when the husks immediately separate themselves from the -grain, which is afterwards boiled in water, and reduced to a paste by -bruising it on a large stone, somewhat hollowed in the middle, called a -<i>batan</i>. The bruiser, or <i>mano</i>, handle, is curved on one side, and is -moved by pressing the ends alternately. I have been the more particular -in describing this rude mill, because it was undoubtedly used by the -ancient Peruvians, having been found buried with them in their huacas; -and because it may serve some curious investigator in comparing the -manners of these people with those of other nations. By the same -implements they pulverized their ores for the extraction of gold and -silver; and to this day many of their batanes of obsidian and porphyry -remain near to the mountain in the neighbourhood of Cochas; but the -bruisers have never been discovered. That these stones were used for the -purpose just mentioned is obvious, from the relics of a gold mine being -here visible; besides, I have several times found fragments of gold ore -in this place.</p> - -<p>After the paste is made from the boiled maize it is seasoned with salt -and an abundance of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</a></span> capsicum, and a portion of lard is added: a -quantity of this paste is then laid on a piece of plantain leaf, and -some meat is put among it, after which it is rolled up in the leaf, and -boiled for several hours. This kind of pudding is called <i>tamal</i>, a -<i>Quichua</i> word, which inclines me to believe, that it is a dish known to -the ancient inhabitants of the country.</p> - -<p>Sweet puddings are made from the green corn, by cutting the grains from -the cob, bruising them, and adding sugar and spices, after which they -are boiled or baked. <i>Choclo</i>, being the Quichua name for the green -cobs, these puddings, if boiled in the leaves that envelop the cob, are -called <i>choclo tandas</i>, bread of green maize, and also <i>umitas</i>.</p> - -<p>This useful grain is prepared for the table in many different ways, and -excellent cakes and rusks are made from the flour, procured from the -grain by various means. A thick kind of porridge, called <i>sango</i>, is -made by boiling the flour in water, which constitutes the principal food -of the slaves on the farms and plantations. Another sort, similar to -hasty-pudding, is common in many places, but particularly in Lima; it is -called <i>masamorra</i>, and the people of Lima are often ironically -denominated <i>masamorerros</i>, eaters of masamorra. The grain is bruised -and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[Pg 371]</a></span> mixed with water; it is thus allowed to ferment until it become -acid, when it is boiled, and sweetened with sugar. It resembles Scotch -sowins.</p> - -<p>A great quantity of maize is also made into a fermented beverage, called -<i>chicha</i>. The grain is allowed to germinate, and is completely malted; -it is then boiled with water, and the liquor ferments like ale or -porter; but no other ingredients are added to it.</p> - -<p>Chicha is the favourite drink of all the indians, and when well made it -is very intoxicating. In some parts of Peru the natives believe that -fermentation will not take place if the malted grain be not previously -subjected to mastication; from this circumstance many old men and women -assemble at the house where chicha is to be made, and are employed in -chewing the <i>jora</i>, or malt. Having masticated a sufficient quantity -they lay the chewed substance in small balls, mouthfuls, on a calabash; -these are suffered to dry a little, after which they are mixed with some -newly made chicha while it is warm. When travelling I always inquired if -the chicha was <i>mascada</i>, chewed, and if it were I declined taking -any;—however, as the question seemed to express a dislike, I was often -assured it was not mascada when it probably was. No spirituous liquor is -extracted from it, on account<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[Pg 372]</a></span> of the prohibition. Two kinds of chicha -are usually made from the same grain—the first, called claro, is the -water in which the malt has been infused; this is drawn off, and -afterwards boiled. In taste it has some resemblance to cider. The second -kind is made by boiling the grain with the water for several hours, it -is then strained and fermented, and is called neto; the residue or -sediment found in the bottom of the jars is used in fermenting the dough -for bread, which when made of maize is called <i>arepa</i>; and that of -wheat, in the Quichua language, <i>tanda</i>.</p> - -<p>This beverage was well known to the ancient inhabitants before the -conquest; for I have drunk, at Patavilca and Cajamarca, chicha that had -been found interred in jars in the huacas, or burying places, where it -must have remained upwards of three centuries. Garcilaso de la Vega -relates, that the manufacture of intoxicating liquors, particularly the -<i>vinapu</i> and <i>sora</i>, was prohibited by the Incas; and this part of Peru -was annexed to their government in the time of Pachacutec, the tenth -Inca of Peru.</p> - -<p>The Peruvians, as well as the Mexicans, made sugar from the green stalks -of the maize plant, and sold it in their markets—Cortes, in one of his -letters to the Emperor Charles V., speaks of it. At Quito, I have seen -the green<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[Pg 373]</a></span> canes brought to market, and have frequently observed the -indians sucking them as the negroes do the sugar cane.</p> - -<p>The town Villa de Chancay stands about a league and a half from the -Pasamayo river, and fifteen leagues from Lima. It was founded in 1563 by -the Viceroy Conde de Nieva, who intended to form a college and a -university here, but this intention was never fulfilled. It has a large -parish church, a convent of Franciscans, dedicated to San Diego, and a -hospital, managed by friars of San Juan de Dios. The town contains about -three hundred families, some of which are descendants of noblemen, -although perhaps by African favourites.</p> - -<p>Chancay is pleasantly situated, about a league from the sea; its port is -small, the anchorage bad, and the landing difficult. Its market is -abundant in fish, flesh-meat, vegetables, and fruit: of the latter -considerable quantities are carried to Lima; it is also famous for -delicate sweet cakes, called <i>biscochos</i>. This is the capital of a -district, which contains thirty-seven settlements, of different -climates, because part of it is mountainous. The subdelegado, or -political governor of the district, generally resides at Chancay, -besides whom there are two alcaldes or mayors annually elected in the town.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[Pg 374]</a></span></p><p>At a short distance is Torre blanca, the seat of the Conde de Torre -blanca, Marquis of Lara; and an excellent farm-house at Chancaillo; not -far from which, and near the sea, are the <i>colcas</i>, deep pits dug in the -sand. These pits have been surrounded with adobes, sun-dried bricks; and -they are reported to have been granaries belonging to the army of -Pachacutec, when this Inca was engaged in the conquest of the Chimu of Mansichi.</p> - -<p>Fourteen leagues from Chancay stands the indian village Huacho; it is -situated in a delightful valley, watered by the Huaura, which rises in -the province of Cajatambo, and in its course to the sea irrigates more -than thirty thousand acres of land. The village contains about four -thousand inhabitants, all indians; it has a large parish church and -three small chapels, besides a chapel of ease at Lauriama, where mass is -celebrated on Sundays and festivals. The principal employment of the -natives is the cultivation of their <i>chacras</i>, small farms, cutting salt -at the salinas, fishing, and making straw hats, at which they are very -dexterous. The hats are not made of plat: they begin at the centre of -the crown, and continue the work by alternately raising one straw and -depressing another, inserting or taking out straws, as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[Pg 375]</a></span> shape -requires it, till the hat is finished. These hats are generally made -either of fine rushes which grow on swampy ground, or of <i>mocora</i>, the -produce of a palm tree, in the province of Lambayeque.</p> - -<p>The <i>chacras</i>, plots of ground distributed to the indians by the -government, and held during life, are supposed to be an equivalent for -the tribute; and indeed they are an excellent compensation, for the -produce is usually worth six times more than the sum paid, leaving at -least five-sixths for the expences or trouble of cultivation. To the -great credit of the indians no land is any where kept in better -condition, nor more attention paid to the crops, which generally consist -of wheat, maize, beans, camotes, yucas, pumpkins, potatoes, and many -kinds of vegetables. There is an abundance of fruit trees, the produce -of which is often carried to Lima. The hedges are almost entirely -composed of those trees, such as the orange, lime, guava, pacay, palta, -&c. In some places the vine and the granadilla are seen creeping about, -craving support for their slender branches, as if unable to sustain the -burthen of fruit they are destined to bear. The maguey is much -cultivated in the hedges; besides this destination it produces cordage -for general uses, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[Pg 376]</a></span> flower stems growing twenty feet high serve -as beams for the houses, and other similar purposes; being, if kept dry, -of almost everlasting duration.</p> - -<p>I had an excellent opportunity here of observing the character, manners, -and customs of the indians, with whom I was very much pleased. They are -kind and hospitable, but timidity and diffidence make them appear -reserved and somewhat sullen. Their maxims are founded on their own -adage—convince me that you are really my friend, and rest secure: <i>has -ver que eres mi amigo, y hechate a dormir</i>. Whether this distrust be a -natural characteristic trait, or whether it be the result of the -privations they have suffered since the Spaniards became their masters, -it is difficult to decide; but at all events it surely cannot be called a crime.</p> - -<p>The indians on the coast of Peru are of a copper colour, with a small -forehead, the hair growing on each side from the extremities of the -eyebrows; they have small black eyes; small nose, the nostrils not -protruding like those of the African; a moderately sized mouth, with -beautiful teeth; beardless chin (except in old age) and a round face. -Their hair is black, coarse, and sleek, without any inclination to curl; -the body is well proportioned, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[Pg 377]</a></span> limbs well turned, and they have -small feet. Their stature is rather diminutive, but they are inclined to -corpulency, when they become inactive, and it is a common saying, that a -jolly person is <i>tan gordo como un cacique</i>, as fat as a cacique. The -perspiration from their bodies is acetous, which some have supposed to -be caused by a vegetable diet. In the colder climates, although in the -same latitude, the complexion of the indians is lighter, owing perhaps -to the cold; however, the Araucanians, who enjoy a much colder climate, -are of a dark copper colour.</p> - -<p>I shall here endeavour to refute some of the aspersions thrown by -several writers upon the character of the Peruvian indians, whom I hope -to place, in the estimation of unbiassed men, in a situation more -honourable to human nature than they have yet enjoyed; and thus one of -my principal objects for publishing this narrative will be obtained.</p> - -<p>M. Bouguer says, that "they are all extremely indolent, they are stupid, -they pass whole days sitting in the same place, without moving, or -speaking a single word." I believe I may state, that in all hot climates -an inclination to indolence is common, nay even natural; a hot climate -precludes bodily exertion, unless<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[Pg 378]</a></span> the cravings of nature are satisfied -with difficulty, and as this is not the case in Peru, half the vice, if -it be a vice, disappears at once; add to this, that they have no motive -to exertion above supplying the wants of nature—no stimulus—no market -for an excess of produce, or the supplying of artificial wants—and the -cause for indolence exists as necessarily as a cause for industry is -found where the contrary happens. If a climate demand only a shade from -the sun or a shelter from the rain, why should men build themselves -stately or close habitations? Where nature spontaneously produces the -requisite articles of food, competent to the consumption of the -inhabitants, why should they exert themselves to procure a superfluous -stock? and particularly where an introduction of new articles in -succession is entirely unknown. What to M. Bouguer and others has -appeared stupidity, perhaps deserves the name of indifference, the -natural result of possessing all the means for satisfying real wants, -and an ignorance of artificial ones. But if real stupidity be meant, I -must aver that I never observed it either among the wild tribes of -Arauco on the river Napo, or in those of the coasts of Choco. I -recollect very well an indian, called <i>Bravo</i>, who was accused at -Pomasqui of having stolen the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[Pg 379]</a></span> mule which he had brought from the -valleys to the eastward of Quito, laden with fruit. At the moment the -accusation was laid before the alcalde, the indian threw his poncho or -mantle over the head of the mule, and then desired the challenger to say -of which eye his mule was blind? He answered, of the left. Then, said -the indian, taking off the poncho, this mule cannot be yours, because it -is blind of neither. That any beings endowed with speech should "sit -whole days without speaking a word," is indeed the acme of taciturnity; -but as M. Bouguer was perhaps ignorant of the language of the people he -describes, he may probably deserve the same compliment from them. I -found the Araucanians prone to talk; indeed eloquence is considered an -accomplishment among them, and extremely necessary among the <i>mapus</i>, or -chiefs. The Peruvians are neither silent in their meetings nor when -travelling; however, they have little inquisitiveness, nor do they break -out into soliloquys on the beauties of the surrounding scenery; but they -converse freely on common place topics, particularly with a white man, -if they find that he deigns to enter into conversation with them. -Several of the tribes in Archidona and Napo, who are in their free -state, certainly did not merit the accusation of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[Pg 380]</a></span> dumb stupidity; for -although unacquainted with their languages, I tried to converse with -them in Quichua, aided by signs, and I really discovered more -intelligence among them than I had a right to expect. What is often -considered a step towards civilization or to social life, is a pastoral -one; but if we search for it in a country where animals capable of -domestication do not exist, we have no right to consider the inhabitants -as barbarous, because they are not possessed of flocks and herds; nor do -human beings deserve that epithet, who will share what they are -possessed of with a stranger; and such hospitality I have frequently -experienced. The kindness which these men show to the dog is no small -proof of their sensibility; they will take long journeys to procure one, -and value it as much as a lady esteems her lap dog. The utility of the -animal may perhaps be said to be the chief motive of the indian's -attachment; and what other motive has the shepherd or the herdsman?</p> - -<p>M. Bouguer continues, "they are totally indifferent to wealth and all -its advantages. One does not know what to offer them to procure their -services; it is in vain to offer money, they answer, that they are not -hungry." Wealth, in the general acceptation of the word, can procure<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[Pg 381]</a></span> no -advantages to men who have no means of disposing of it. Where there is -no market, money can purchase nothing; and where the natural wants are -abundantly supplied, and men's desires have not created artificial ones, -a market is superfluous and useless; but wherever the indians can -exchange the produce of the country they inhabit for whatever pleases -them, they are always anxious to do it. The Logroño indians trade with -the city of Cuenca; the Yumbos, Colorados, and Malabas with Quito; the -Chunchos, Pehuenches, Huilliches, and other tribes with Conception; the -Orejones with Huanuco; and numerous other tribes frequent the -settlements nearest to them, for the purpose of bartering their -commodities for others which are either useful or ornamental. Had M. -Bouguer offered them beads, hawks' bells, <i>machetes</i>, large knives, -bows, arrows, or poison for their darts, he would have obtained their services.</p> - -<p>Dr. Robertson considers the indians to have been, at the time of the -conquest by the Spaniards, less improved and more savage than the -inhabitants of any part of the globe; but he afterwards limits this -charge to the rudest tribes; a limitation which was very necessary, for -the purpose of palliating what I cannot help believing to be a false -accusation. He could not mean<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[Pg 382]</a></span> the tribe of the Muysca indians, who have -left the fewest remains of their ingenuity, much less the Peruvians; and -in Mexico, some of their cities were equal to the finest in Spain, -according to the accounts given by Cortes, in his reports to the Emperor -Charles V. These reports, and the yet existing monuments of labour and -ingenuity, speak strongly in opposition to Robertson's statement.</p> - -<p>Ulloa says, "one can hardly form an idea of them different from what one -has of the brutes." Paul III. thought differently, when, by his -celebrated bull, he declared them worthy of being considered as human -beings. Ulloa might have said, with more truth, one can hardly form an -idea of treatment more brutal than that which many of them receive. In -the interior of Peru, as Ulloa speaks of the Peruvians, they were -degraded by the <i>mita</i>, a scion of the law of <i>repartirnientos</i>, -distribution of indians at the time of the conquest. By this law, the -men were forced from their homes and their families to serve for a -limited time an imperious master, who, if he approved of their labour, -took care to advance them a little money or some equivalent above what -their wages amounted to, and then obliged them to serve him until the -debt was liquidated. By this time another debt was contracted;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">[Pg 383]</a></span> and thus -it was that they became worse than slaves, except in the name. I have -been on several estates in different parts of Peru and Quito where the -annual stipend of an indian was no more than eighteen or twenty dollars; -with which pittance he had probably to maintain a wife and family, -besides paying his annual tribute of five or seven dollars and a half to -the King. The result was generally this:—the father died indebted to -his master, and his children were attached to the estate for the -payment. I would now ask Don Antonio Ulloa, who are the brutes? The hut -of one of these miserable indians consists of a few stones laid one upon -another, without any cement or mortar, thatched over with some long -grass or straw, which neither defends the unhappy inmates from the wind -nor the rain; and such is the case on the <i>paramos</i>, or bleak mountains. -One small room contains the whole family; their bed, a sheep skin or -two, their covering, the few clothes which they wear during the day, for -they have no others; their furniture, one or two earthen pots; and their -food, a scanty provision of barley. Who that is possessed of Christian -charity could witness this, and, instead of pitying their miserable -condition, call them brutes? If of these Ulloa says, "nothing disturbs -the tranquillity of their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[Pg 384]</a></span> souls—equally insensible to disasters and to -prosperity," his observation is just. Born under the lash of an -imperious master, subject to the cruelty of an unfeeling mayordomo, they -had no disasters to fear, because their condition could not possibly be -rendered worse: with prosperity they had been totally unacquainted, it -was a blessing which had fled the land they were born to tread, or -rather it had been transferred to usurpers.</p> - -<p>Ulloa continues, "though half naked, they are as contented as a monarch -in his most splendid array." And does the Spaniard imagine, that these -miserable men are destitute of corporal feeling as well as of -intellectual sensibility? Does neither the bleak wind nor the cold rain -make any impression on them? Can content be the companion of the -half-naked, half-starved slave? It may be the gloom of despair that -hangs on their countenances; but it is certainly not the smile of -content. "Fear makes no impression on them, and respect as little." This -rhapsody is taken from the mouth of some Spanish master, as a palliative -of his own cruel conduct. "Their disposition is so singular, that there -are no means of influencing them, nor of rousing them from that -indifference, which is proof against all the endeavours of the wisest<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[Pg 385]</a></span> -persons. No expedient which can induce them to abandon that gross -ignorance, or lay aside that careless negligence which disconcert the -prudent, and disappoint the care of such as are attentive to their -welfare." If a man be so oppressed by a tyrannical and proud master, -that he finds himself lower in his estimation than the cattle which he -tends—so worn down with hunger, cold, and fatigue that he is only -anxious for the approach of night or of the grave,—what can rouse him -from that indifference or despondency which Señor Ulloa describes? Now -this has been the state of the South American indian on the large farms, -and in the <i>obrages</i>, manufactories. He dreads to finish his task early, -fearful of an increase of labour; he dares not appear cheerful, because -it might be called impudence by his overseer; he dares not be cleanly or -well clothed, because the first condition would be considered a -negligence of his duty to his master, or an attention to his own -comforts, and the second the result of theft. Then, what, let me ask, is -left, but misery in appearance, and wretchedness in reality? I well -remember what the pious Dr. Rodrigues said to me at Quito:—"Not half -the saints of the Romish Church, whose penitent lives placed them in the -calendar and on our altars, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[Pg 386]</a></span>suffered greater privations, in the hopes -of enjoying everlasting glory, than one of these indians does through -fear of offending a cruel master, or for the purpose of increasing his -wealth." "How dear," added he, "has the religion of Christ cost these -once happy innocent creatures, and at what an usurious price it has been -sold to them by the proud pedlars who imported it. Oh! heaven," -exclaimed he, "till when! till when! hasta quando! hasta quando!" Well -too do I remember, when passing, with the Conde Ruis de Castilla, by the -cloth manufactory of San Juan, near Riobamba, an old indian woman, who -was tending a flock of sheep, and spinning with her distaff and spindle, -her head uncovered, her grey locks waving wildly in the wind, and her -nakedness not half concealed by an old coarse <i>anaco</i>, running to his -excellency, and on her knees exclaiming, with sobs and tears, "bless -your worship, I have seen seven viracochas who came to govern us, but my -poor children are still as naked and as hungry as I was when I saw the -first; but you will tell the King of this, and he will make me happy -before I die; he will let us leave San Juan; oh! taita ya, taita ya—oh! -my father, my father."</p> - -<p>"No expedient can induce them to lay aside their gross ignorance," says -el Señor Ulloa.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[Pg 387]</a></span> What expedients have been tried? No schools have been -established for them; no persons employed to teach them, except an old -man or a friar, who once a week teaches them their prayers; and I can -safely aver, that thousands of indians employed by white people live and -die in their service without ever seeing any other book than the missal -on the altar, or their master's account book on his table.</p> - -<p>But let us turn from this loathing sight, and look to indians where they -are blessed with a greater portion of rational liberty, where they are -considered more on a level with their white neighbours, and have more -opportunities of evincing that they are not a disgrace to human nature, -nor beneath the merited name of men.</p> - -<p>The towns of Huacho and Eten, inhabited almost exclusively by indians, -may serve to pourtray the character of these people when in society. I -have already mentioned their employment at Huacho; to which may be added -the manufacture of many articles of cotton at Eten, such as napkins, -tablecloths, and counterpanes, some of which are remarkably fine, and -ornamented with curious figures interwoven, somewhat like damask. I have -seen their felt or frieze counterpanes sell for twenty or twenty five -dollars each. They also make large floor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[Pg 388]</a></span> mats of <i>junco</i>, a species of -fine rush, and they manufacture hats. These are sufficient proofs, that -when an indian reaps the benefit of his labour he is not averse from -work.</p> - -<p>Ulloa has also mistated the character of the American indian, in -asserting, "that he will receive with the same indifference the office -of an alcalde or judge, as that of a hangman." An indian alcalde is as -proud of his <i>vara</i>, insignia of office, as any mayor of England is of -his gown, and always takes care to carry it along with him, and to exact -that respect which he considers due to him in his official capacity. -When the Oidor Abendaño passed through the indian town of Sechura, in -1807, he had neglected to take the necessary passport from the -Governador of Paita; the indian alcalde requested to see it; the Oidor -informed him that he had not one; adding, that he was one of the -ministers of the royal audience of Lima; and I, said the indian, am the -minister of justice of Sechura, and here my vara is of more importance -than your lordship's. I shall therefore insist on your returning to -Paita for your passport, or else of sending some one for it: two of my -bailiffs will wait on you, my lord, till it is procured, as well as for -the purpose of preventing you from pursuing your journey without it.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[Pg 389]</a></span></p><p>The number of indians who receive holy orders, natives of the coast as -well as the interior, is a convincing proof that they are not destitute -of understanding, nor incapable of at least becoming literary -characters, if not learned men. Some have also shone at the bar, in the -audiences of Lima, Cusco, Chuquisaca, and Quito; among these was Manco -Yupanqui, of Lima, protector-general of indians, whom I knew. He was a -good Latin scholar, was well versed in the English and French languages, -and considered the only good Greek scholar in the city. I knew also Don -Jose Huapayo, Vice-rector of the college del Principe, a pasante of San -Carlos, a young man of natural talents, which were well cultivated.</p> - -<p>Extreme cowardice has also been attributed to the indians; but this -imputation very indifferently accords with the tribes of Araucania, -Darien, &c. During the present contest in South America the indians have -sustained more than their share of fighting; and had the unfortunate -Pumacagua of Cusco, or Pucatoro of Huamanga, been supplied with arms and -ammunition, they would not have been subdued by Ramires and Maroto.</p> - -<p>The indians who reside among the creoles and Spaniards on the coasts of -Peru and in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[Pg 390]</a></span> province of Guayaquil are docile, obliging, and rather -timid. Their timidity has been the cause of their being supposed totally -indifferent to what passes; indeed, as I have before said, there does -not appear to be any eager curiosity about them, they have little to -satisfy; but at its lowest ebb, this disposition surely can only be -termed apathy. They are industrious in the cultivation of their farms -and gardens; attentive to their other occupations, and faithful in their -engagements; they know the value of riches, strive to obtain them, and -are fond of being considered rich, although they never boast of being -so. Infidelity between man and wife is very rare; they are kind parents, -which generally makes their children grateful as well as dutiful. -Robertson says, that "chastity is an idea too refined for a savage." I -must beg leave to state, that his compilation, founded on Spanish -writings, is not always deserving of credit. Had Dr. Robertson travelled -over half the countries he describes, or observed the native character -of the people which he has depicted, he would have expressed himself in -very different terms. Chastity is more common, and infidelity more -uncommon, among the Peruvians than in most countries of the old world. -The same author remarks, "in America, even among the rudest<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">[Pg 391]</a></span> tribes, a -regular union between husband and wife was universal, and the rights of -marriage were understood and recognized." This surely is a proof that -chastity was known among these <i>savages</i>; and I cannot conceive that -polygamy, when sanctioned by law or custom, is any objection to -chastity.</p> - -<p>They are cleanly in their persons, and particularly so in their food; -abstemious in general, but at their feasts inclined to gluttony and -drunkenness; although disposed to the latter vice in a considerable -degree, they are not habitual drunkards, and the females are so averse -from it, that I never saw one of them intoxicated. I often observed, -when living among the indians, that they slept very little; they will -converse till late at night, and always rise early in the morning, -especially if they have any work that requires their attention; such as -irrigating their fields, when water can only be obtained at night, or -tending their mules on a journey. In such cases they will abstain from -sleep for three or four nights successively, without any apparent -inconvenience, and they seldom or never sleep during the day. Both males -and females adhere to one kind of dress, which varies little either in -towns or villages. The men of Huacho wear long blue woollen trowsers,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[Pg 392]</a></span> -waistcoat, and sometimes a jacket; a light poncho, and a straw hat, but -they are without either shoes or stockings, except some of the old men -who have been alcaldes, and who afterwards wear shoes adorned with large -square silver buckles when they go to church or to Lima. The alcaldes -also usually wear a long blue Spanish cloak. The dress of the females is -a blue flannel petticoat, plaited in folds about half an inch broad, a -white shirt, and a piece of flannel, red, green, or yellow, about two -yards long and three quarters of a yard broad; this they put over their -shoulders like a shawl, and then throw the right end over the left -shoulder, crossing the breast. They wear ear-rings formed like a rose or -a button, the shank being passed through the aperture made in the ear, -and secured by a small peg passed through the eye of the shank; they -have also one or more rosaries, which like the ear-rings are of gold, -and hang round their necks with large crosses, medals, &c. They seldom -wear shoes, except when they go to church, and then often only put them -on at the door; stockings they never wear. The hair both of the men and -women is generally long; the former have one plat formed with the hair -of the forehead, at the top of the head, and another with the rest -behind, and both are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">[Pg 393]</a></span>fastened together at the ends; the women plat -their hair in a number of very small tresses, but comb the whole from -the forehead backwards. There is a considerable portion of superstition -among them; old women are always afraid of being considered witches, and -when a person dies his death is generally attributed to witchcraft. A -widow will often, while lamenting the death of her husband, throw out a -volume of abuse against some female who, as she imagines, had cast an -evil eye on him. When a person praises a child or even a young animal, a -by-stander will exclaim, God protect it! <i>Dios lo guarda!</i> to avert its -being withered by an evil eye. They are considered as neophytes, and the -inquisition has no power over them, nor are they included among the bull -buyers. As to their religion, they are particularly attentive to all the -outward forms, and strict in their attendance at church; but an instance -of cunning in evading a reprimand from the rector happened at this town. -An indian being questioned by the <i>cura</i>, rector, why he did not attend -mass on a day of precept, to hear <i>mass</i> and <i>work</i>, replied, "that he -had fulfilled the commandment of the church, for as he did not intend to -work, mass was undoubtedly excused by the precept."</p> - -<p>I observed at Huacho one of the ancient rites<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">[Pg 394]</a></span> of the Peruvians; it was -the ñaca feast. A child never has its hair cut till it is a year old, or -thereabouts; the friends then assemble, and one by one take a small lock -and cut it off, at the same time presenting something to the child. This -ceremony among the ancient Peruvians was practised at the naming of the -child, and the name was generally appropriate to some particular -circumstance which occurred to the child on that day. The seventh Inca -was called Yahuar Huacar, weeper of blood, because on that day drops of -blood were observed falling from his eyes; and Huascar, the fourteenth -Inca, was so named because the nobles on this day presented him with a -golden chain called a <i>huasca</i>, after the ceremony of cutting the ñacas.</p> - -<p>At this village I heard for the first time the oral tradition of the -first Inca, Manco Capac; it was afterwards repeated to me by indians in -various parts of the country, and they assured me that it was true, and -that they believed it. A white man, they say, was found on the coast, by -a certain Cacique, or head of a tribe, whose name was Cocapac; by signs -he asked the white man who he was, and received for answer, an -Englishman. He took him to his home, where he had a daughter; the -stranger lived with him till the daughter of the Cacique bore him a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[Pg 395]</a></span> son -and a daughter, and then died. The old man called the boy Ingasman -Cocapac, and the girl Mama Oclle; they were of a fair complexion and had -light hair, and were dressed in a different manner from the indians. -From accounts given by this stranger of the manner in which other people -lived, and how they were governed, Cocapac determined on exalting his -family; and having instructed the boy and girl in what he proposed to -do, he took them first to the plain of Cusco, where one of the largest -tribes of indians then resided, and informed them that their God, the -sun, had sent them two of his children to make them happy, and to govern -them; he requested them to go to a certain mountain on the following -morning at sunrise, and search for them; he moreover told them that the -<i>viracochas</i>, children of the sun, had hair like the rays of the sun, -and that their faces were of the colour of the sun. In the morning the -indians went to the mountain, <i>condor urco</i>, and found the young man and -woman, but surprised at their colour and features, they declared that -the couple were a wizard and a witch. They now sent them to Rimac Malca, -the plain on which Lima stands, but the old man followed them, and next -took them to the neighbourhood of the lake of Titicaca, where another<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">[Pg 396]</a></span> -powerful tribe resided; Cocapac told these indians the same tale, but -requested them to search for the viracochas on the edge of the lake at -sunrise; they did so, and found them there, and immediately declared -them to be the children of their God, and their supreme governors. -Elated with his success, Cocapac was determined to be revenged on the -indians of Cusco; for this purpose he privately instructed his -grandchildren in what he intended to do, and then informed the tribe -that the <i>viracocha</i>, Ingasman Cocapac, had determined to search for the -place where he was to reside; he requested they would take their arms -and follow him, saying, that wherever he struck his golden rod or -sceptre into the ground, that was the spot where he chose to remain. The -young man and woman directed their course to the plain of Cusco, where -having arrived, the signal was given, and the indians here, surprised by -the re-appearance of the viracochas, and overawed by the number of -indians that accompanied them, acknowledged them as their lord, and the -children of their God. Thus, say the indians, was the power of the Incas -established, and many of them have said, that as I was an Englishman, I -was of their family. When H. B. M. ship Breton was at Callao, some of -the officers accompanied me one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">[Pg 397]</a></span> Sunday afternoon to the Alameda at -Lima; on our way we were saluted by several indians from the mountains, -calling us their countrymen, and their relations, begging at the same -time that we would drink some chicha with them.</p> - -<p>There is a curious analogy between this tradition and one that I had -from the mouth of Don Santos Pires, at Rio de Janeiro, in 1823. He told -me, that before the discovery of the Brazils, an Englishman had been -shipwrecked, and fell into the hands of the Coboculo indians; he had -preserved or obtained from the wreck a musket and some ammunition, with -which he both terrified and pleased the indians, who called him -<i>Camaruru</i>, the man of fire, and elected him their king. He taught them -several things of which they were before ignorant (as did Manco Capac -and Mama Oclle the Peruvians); he was alive at the conquest of the -country, and was carried to Portugal, when Emanuel granted him a valley -near to Bahia, independent of the crown. Don Santos is the brother of -the Baron da Torre, both lineal descendants of Camaruru, of which he -boasted not a little, adding, that to the present time none of the -lineal descendants had ever married a Portuguese.</p> - -<p>The Muysca indians of the plains of Cundinamarca have a white man with a -beard,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">[Pg 398]</a></span> called Bochica, Nemquetheba, or Suhé, for under these different -names he is spoken of, as their legislator. This old man, like Manco -Capac, taught them to build huts and live in communities, to till the -ground, and to harvest the produce; as also to clothe themselves, with -other comforts; but his wife, Chia, Yubecayguaya, or Huythaca, for she -is also known by three different names, was not like Mama Oclle, who -taught the females to spin, to weave, and to dye the cloths. Chia, on -the contrary, opposed and thwarted every enterprize for the public good -adopted by Bochica, who, like Manco Capac, was the child of the sun, -dried the soil, promoted agriculture, and established wise laws. The -Inca did not separate the ecclesiastical authority from the political, -as Bochica did, but established a theocracia. The first opened an outlet -to the lake Titicaca, for the benefit of his subjects, at a place now -called <i>Desaguadero</i>, the outlet; while the latter, for the same -purpose, opened the lake of Bogotá, at Tequendama. The Inca bequeathed -his sovereign authority to his son, while Bochica named two chiefs for -the government, and retired to <i>Tunja</i>, holy valley, where he lived two -thousand years, or, as other traditions state, where his descendants -governed the Muysca tribe for two thousand years. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">[Pg 399]</a></span> first of these -successors was called Huncahua, and the rest Huncas, which was the name -of the holy city; but the Spaniards have changed the name to Tunja.</p> - -<p>The Mexicans have likewise a bearded white man as a legislator, called -Quatzalcoatl; he was the high priest of Cholula, chief of a religious -sect, and a legislator; he preached peace to men, and prohibited all -sacrifices to the Deity, excepting the first fruits.</p> - -<p>We have here the tradition of four white men distinguished by the people -of the new world, as having beards, a circumstance as remarkable to -them, as it was visible, for they being beardless, would consequently be -surprised at seeing men whose faces bore what they would be led to -consider a feature so distinguishing. Two of these are said to have been -Englishmen. Of the laws established by Camaruru I have no information, -but those established by Manco Capac I know have no analogy, nor do they -bear any resemblance to those of any of the northern governments, -except, setting aside lineal descent, the papal, where the spiritual -authority is exercised by the King of Rome. This coincidence of four -men, bearing the same mark of a beard, three of whom were priests and -legislators,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">[Pg 400]</a></span> occurred at places the most distant from each other, the -one at Rio de Janeiro, in latitude 22° 54´ 10´´ S., longitude 42° 43´ -45´´ W.; one at Cusco in lat. 13° S., long. 81° W.; one at Cundinamarca -in latitude 4° 35´ N., long. 74° 8´; and the other at Cholula in -latitude 19° 4´ N., longitude 98° 14´ W.</p> - -<p>The traditions of Manco Capac, Bochica, and Quatzalcoatl agree in -predicting the arrival of bearded men at some future period, and the -conquest of the different countries by them; which predictions operated -strongly in favour of Pizarro, Benalcazar, and Cortes, and produced that -submission of the Peruvians, Muyscas, and Mexicans, which finally laid -the foundation of the degraded state of their descendants.</p> - -<p>From some accounts of the government of the Incas of Peru, it is easy to -observe how well acquainted they were with the natural character of the -people whom they had to govern. The whole empire was modelled like a -large monastic establishment, in which each individual had his place and -his duty assigned to him, without being permitted to inquire into the -conduct of his superiors, much less to question the authority of the -high priest, or to doubt the justness of his mandates. Passive obedience -to the decrees of their master could not but crush the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">[Pg 401]</a></span> germ of -enterprize and ambition. Thus it is that the Peruvian indians are -destitute of an active love for their country, and incapable of any -exertion, unless roused by the orders of a Superior. Patient in -adversity, and not elated with prosperity, their most indifferent -actions are regulated by almost superstitious precision. Their -veneration for the memory of their Incas is beyond description, -particularly in some of the interior districts, where his decollation by -Pizarro is annually represented. In this performance their grief is so -natural, though excessive, their songs so plaintive, and the whole is -such a scene of distress, that I never witnessed it without mingling my -tears with theirs. The Spanish authorities have endeavoured to prevent -this exhibition, but without effect, although several royal orders have -been issued for the purpose. The indians in the territory of Quito wear -black clothes, and affirm that it is mourning for their Incas, of whom -they never speak but in a doleful tone. I cannot quit this subject -without again saying, that from the unconquered tribes to the east and -the west of Quito, both from those who were subject to the laws of the -conquerors, as well as the warlike tribes of Arauco, I received the -kindest treatment, and a degree of respect to which I was in no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">[Pg 402]</a></span> way -entitled; and I hope I shall never permit ingratitude to guide either my -pen or my tongue when their character is discussed.</p> - -<p>Among the feasts which the indians of Huacho celebrate, that of Corpus -Christi deserves to be spoken of. Besides the splendid decorations of -the church, at the gratuitous expence of the indians, there are at the -houses of the Mayordomos, Alfereces, and Mayorales sumptuous dinners, -from the feast to the octave, provided for all persons who choose to -partake of them. They consume an enormous quantity of their favourite -beverage, chicha, of which I have been assured, that a thousand jars, -each containing eighteen gallons, have been drunk at one feast; and I do -not doubt it, for besides the natives, numbers of people flock to the -feast from the surrounding villages, and many come from Lima. At these -dinners there are always several dishes of guinea pigs, stewed, and -seasoned with an abundance of capsicum. Indeed, an indian of the coast -of Peru never dispenses with this picante at a feast; and I must -acknowledge that I became almost as partial to it as any indian.</p> - -<p>During the week the village is enlivened with different companies of -dancers: one called huancos is composed of eight or ten men; they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">[Pg 403]</a></span> have -large crowns of ostrich feathers (from the plains of Buenos Ayres) on -their heads; the quills are fastened in a roll of red cloth, which -contains not less than five hundred long feathers dyed of various -colours, but particularly red. They have small ponchos of brocade, -tissue, or satin; on their legs they wear leather buskins, loaded with -hawks' bells; their faces are partly covered by a handkerchief tied high -above their mouths; and they carry as arms a cudgel, and bear on the -left arm a small wooden buckler. They dance along the streets to the -sound of a pipe and tabor, keeping pace to the tune, that the bells on -their legs may beat time to the pipe and tabor.</p> - -<p>When two companies of these dancers meet, neither will give way for the -other to pass, and the result is, the cudgels are applied to open it. -Some of their skirmishes produce broken heads and arms, although they -are very dexterous in guarding off the blows with their small bucklers; -but no intreaties nor threats from magistrates, who have sometimes -interfered, can appease or separate them, until the criollaos appear, -when, as if by magic, each party dances along quite unconcerned.</p> - -<p>The criollaos go by pairs, accompanied by a pipe and tabor. They have -small helmets on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">[Pg 404]</a></span> their heads, a poncho like the huancos, and a short -petticoat; they carry in their right hands a small wooden sword, in -their left a bunch of flowers, and they dance to a melancholy tune, -while that of the huancos is very lively. They are the peace makers, and -such respect is paid to their interference, that not a blow is struck -after their arrival; but neither threats nor intreaties will hurry them -on to the place of action.</p> - -<p>The chimbos are very gaily dressed: they have crowns ornamented with all -the jewellery which they can borrow; necklaces, ear-rings, bracelets, -and rosaries are fastened on them in abundance, and when these cannot be -procured, they have holes drilled in doubloons and new dollars, with -which they load them. I have seen fifty of each on one crown. Their -dress is a gay poncho, with wide Moorish trowsers; and their music -consists of one or more harps or guitars. For the purpose of dancing -along the streets, two boys support the bottom of the harp, whilst the -top is fastened with a handkerchief tied round the neck of the player.</p> - -<p>All these dance before the procession, which, considering the smallness -of the town, is very splendid. A double row of indians, the men on one -side and the women on the other, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[Pg 405]</a></span> large lighted wax tapers, often -as many as two thousand, go before; in the centre are indian boys and -girls, burning perfumes in small incense burners, and strewing flowers. -A rich pall with six silver cased poles is carried over the priest -bearing the host, by the Mayordomos, Alfereces, and Mayorales; and the -procession is closed with all the music they can muster. In the course -of the procession, as well as every night during the octave, great -quantities of fireworks are burnt.</p> - -<p>Longevity is common among the Peruvian indians. I witnessed the burial -of two, in a small village, one of whom had attained the age of 127, and -the other of 109; yet both enjoyed unimpaired health to a few days -within their decease. On examining the parish books of Barranca, I -found, that in seven years, eleven indians had been buried, whose joint -ages amounted to 1207.</p> - -<p>The diseases most incidental to the indians, both along the coast of -Peru and in the interior, are of an inflammatory nature—consumptions in -puberty, and pleuritic affections in old age. With what certainty the -origin of syphilis has been traced to America, I know not; but the wild -tribes of Arauco, Archidona, Napo, in the vicinity of Darien, and -<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">[Pg 406]</a></span>several others, as well as those that live in small settlements among -the Spaniards, are totally unacquainted with it; and although I have -been particularly inquisitive on this head, I never could hear of one -solitary instance of the disease, except in large towns and cities, and -then it was limited to a certain class, where it was likely to be most prevalent.</p> - -<p>The great decrease of indian population in Peru may almost be called -alarming; many theories have been published respecting it, but in my -opinion none have given the true cause. Some have attributed it to the -introduction of the small pox; but the virulence of this disease was -mitigated, as in Europe, by inoculation, and latterly by the -introduction of vaccination, which at a great expence was carried from -Spain in 1805, by the order of Charles IV. Not less than eighty boys -were sent over in a vessel of war, for the purpose of preserving the -fluid by transferring it from one to the other; and a tribunal was -formed in Lima, of which the Viceroy was the president, having -professors with competent salaries, for the preservation of this <i>magnum -Dei donum</i>, as it was justly called in the royal order. On examining -some church books, I found that the number of deaths was not uncommonly -augmented when the small pox was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">[Pg 407]</a></span> prevalent, although undoubtedly for -several years after the conquest many people died of it through -ignorance of the method of treatment. Perhaps, too, superstition and -fear made the healthy abandon the sick, to avoid the contagious effects -of what appeared to them to be a disease brought by the Spaniards for -their destruction. Of this idea they were doubtlessly possessed, for -while Valdivia was at Talcahuano, several indians took up their -residence in the town with the Spaniards, until on the arrival of a -vessel from Peru with provisions, a barrel of lentils fell on the ground -and burst; the grains appeared to the terrified indians to be a new -importation of the small pox, on which account they all immediately -fled, and carried the appalling news to their countrymen.</p> - -<p>Others have attributed this decrease to the number of indians who died -in the mines, being driven there by the laws of <i>repartimiento</i>, -distribution, and <i>mita</i>, temporal labour: these also belong to the -first years after the conquest. Some have fancied that a social life -does not agree with their nature; but this is equally trifling, because -the comforts, conveniency, and regularity of such a life cannot be -detrimental to human nature; besides, those who were latterly subject to -the Spanish domination in Peru, were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">[Pg 408]</a></span> formerly subject to that of the -Incas, and the decrease was as visible on the coast, where the indians -may be said to be their own masters, as in the interior, where many are -not. Perhaps the introduction of spirituous liquors may have tended to -diminish the population; if so, this is almost an incurable evil; and -certainly the division of the country, or the cultivated lands into -large estates, as they were granted to many of the conquerors and first -settlers, was a pernicious error, the fatal effects of which are often -felt, and are inimical to the increase of population.</p> - -<p>About three leagues to the south of Huacho are the salinas, or plains of -salt. This natural production is covered with sand, in some places -thicker than in others; under this is a stratum of solid salt, from -eight to twelve inches thick. For the purpose of taking it up, it is -marked out into square pieces, by chopping it gently with an axe; a bar -of iron is then introduced underneath the salt, and the squares are -turned over to dry; beneath the solid salt the ground is quite soft and -rather watery, which allows the salt to separate from the bed with much -facility. After three years have expired, the salt is again in a state -to be cut; and from this small plain, which is not more than five miles -square,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">[Pg 409]</a></span> salt enough is extracted for the consumption of the greater -part of Peru and Chile. It is carried into the interior on the backs of -mules, and to different places on the coast by shipping, for which there -is an excellent port called <i>de las Salinas</i>, though some go to that of -Huacho, which is not so commodious.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_410" id="Page_410">[Pg 410]</a></span></p> - -<h2>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> - -<blockquote><p>Villa of Huaura....Description....Village of Supe....Ruins of an -Indian Town....<i>Huacas</i>, Burying Places....Bodies preserved -entire....Village of Barranca....Earthquake in 1806....Barranca -River....Bridge of Ropes....Village of Pativilca....Sugar -Plantation....Produce and Profit....Cane -cultivated....Mills....Sugar-house....Management of -Slaves....Regulations, &c. of Slaves.</p></blockquote> - -<p>Two leagues to the northward of Huacho is the villa or town of Huaura; -it consists of one long street and about two thousand inhabitants, some -of whom are respectable creole families; it has a parish church, a -convent of Franciscan friars, and a hospital. Owing to the situation of -this town, having a range of high hills between it and the sea, and -which keep off the sea breeze, it is very sultry; to this circumstance a -cutaneous disease is attributed, which leaves a bluish mark on the skin. -It is most prevalent among the mulattos; and on those negroes who are -affected by it a stain is left which is almost white, and is called by -the natives <i>carati</i>.</p> - -<p>Near to Huaura is a plantation, the <i>ingenio</i>, formerly belonging to the -Jesuits; here the cane is crushed by cylinders put in motion by a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">[Pg 411]</a></span> water -wheel, which is said to be the first ever constructed in Peru.</p> - -<p>A very handsome brick bridge of one arch, the centre of which was -forty-seven yards above the bed of the river, and the span twenty-six -yards wide, was erected at the entrance of the town; it was thrown down -by an earthquake on the 1st of December, 1806, and the old wooden -bridge, which had formerly a redoubt to guard it, has been repaired.</p> - -<p>The English pirate Edward David took Huaura and sacked it in 1685, -putting to death the <i>alcalde de la hermandad</i>, Don Bias Carrera, whom -he had made his prisoner; this so terrified the inhabitants that they -immediately abandoned the town, nor could they be persuaded to avail -themselves of the drunken state of the sailors during the night to -revenge the injuries they had suffered; they were fearful of being -captured and treated in the same manner as their alcalde. The charter of -villa was taken from the town by the King, but afterwards restored.</p> - -<p>The valley of Huaura extends about twelve leagues to the eastward, and -contains many excellent farms, plantations of sugar cane, and about -three thousand slaves.</p> - -<p>Seven leagues from Huaura is the village of Supe, with a parish church -and eight hundred<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">[Pg 412]</a></span> inhabitants, the greater part of whom are indians. -Between these towns there is a large plain, called <i>pampa de medio -mundo</i>, which before the conquest was under irrigation; the vestiges of -the old canals, <i>asequias</i>, are still visible, and bear witness of the -enormous labour of the ancient Peruvians, as well as of their uncommon -skill in conveying water for the purpose of watering their fields to -immense distances, without the aid of engines; the principal asequia -here took its water from the Huaura river, and winding round the foot of -the mountains conveyed it to the distance of ten leagues, irrigating in -its course some very beautiful plains, which are now only deserts of -sand.</p> - -<p>Near to Supe are the remains of a large indian town, built on the side -of a rock, galleries being dug out of it, one above another, for the -purpose of making room for their small houses; many remains of these are -still visible, and also of small parapets of stone raised before them, -so that the hill has the appearance of a fortified place. At a short -distance are the ruins of another town, on an elevated plain, where -water doubtless could not be procured for irrigation; for, as I have -already observed, the indians never built on land that could be -cultivated.</p> - -<p>I was fully convinced here that the indians<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413">[Pg 413]</a></span> buried their dead in the -houses where they had resided, as I dug up many of them. They appear to -have been buried with whatever belonged to them at the time of their -death; I have found women with their pots, pans, and jars of -earthenware, some of which are very curious. One kind is composed of two -hollow spheres, each about three inches in diameter; they are connected -by a small tube placed in the centre, and a hollow arched handle to hold -it by, having a hole on the upper side; if water be poured into this -hole till the jar is about half full, and the jar be then inclined first -to one side and then to the other, a whistling noise is produced. -Sometimes a figure of a man stands on each jar, and the water is poured -down an opening in his head, and by the same means the noise is -occasioned. I saw one of these at the Carmelite nunnery at Quito, having -two indians upon it carrying a corpse on their shoulders, laid on a -hollow bier resembling a butcher's tray; when the jar was inclined -backwards and forwards a plaintive cry was heard, resembling that made -by the indians at a funeral. The jars and other utensils were of good -clay, and well baked, which, with the ingenious construction just -alluded to, prove that the indians were acquainted with the art of -pottery. I have also<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414">[Pg 414]</a></span> found in these huacas long pieces of cotton cloth, -similar to that which is made by the indians at the present time, called -tocuyo; many calabashes, quantities of indian corn or maize, quinua, -beans, and the leaves of plantains; feathers of the ostrich from the -plains of Buenos Ayres, and different dresses; some spades of palm wood, -similar to the <i>chonta</i> of Guayaquil, and of which none grow near to -Supe; lances and clubs of the same wood; jars filled with chicha, which -was quite sweet when discovered, but became sour after being exposed to -the air for a short time. I have also found small dolls made of cotton, -their dress similar to that worn at present by the females of Cajatambo -and Huarochiri: it consists of a white petticoat, <i>anaco</i>, a piece of -coloured flannel, two corners of which are fastened on the left shoulder -by a cactus thorn, the middle being passed under the right arm, girt -round the waist with a coloured fillet, and open on the left side down -to the bottom; this part of the dress was called the <i>chaupe anaco</i>; a -piece of flannel, of another colour, of about two feet square, was -brought over the shoulders and fastened on the breast with two large -pins of silver or gold, called <i>topas</i>: this part of the dress is called -the <i>yiglla</i>. The hair is divided into two side tresses, and these are -fastened<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_415" id="Page_415">[Pg 415]</a></span> behind, at the extremity, with a coloured fillet. The -principal motive for digging the huacas is to search for treasure; I -have found rings and small cups of gold; they are beat out very thin, -and their size is that of half a hen's egg-shell; it is supposed that -they were worn in the ears, for a small shank is attached to them, like -the buttons worn by the indian females at present. Slips of silver, -about two inches broad and ten long, as thin as paper, are also -frequently dug up. Any small piece of gold which was buried with them is -generally found in their mouths.</p> - -<p>Owing to the nitrous quality of the sand, and to its almost perfect -dryness, the bodies are quite entire, and not the least defaced, -although many of them have been buried at least three centuries: the -clothes are also in the same state of preservation, but both soon decay -after being exposed to the sun and air. I dug up one man whose hair grew -from his eyebrows, covering his forehead, or rather he had no visible -forehead; a great quantity of dried herbs had been buried with him, some -small pots, and several dolls: the indians who saw him assured me, that -he had been a <i>brujo</i>, a wizard or diviner; but I was inclined to -believe him to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">[Pg 416]</a></span> have been a physician: however, the two sciences might -be considered by them as somewhat similar.</p> - -<p>Many persons are persuaded that these huacas were only burying grounds, -and not places of residence for the living: if so, it shews the respect -which the people had for their dead; but as some of the tribes of wild -indians bury their dead in the house where they lived, and then abandon -it, building for themselves another, this appears to be a sufficient -reason for suspecting that such was the practice with the ancient -Peruvians.</p> - -<p>I resided several months at the small village of la Barranca, and I here -witnessed the great earthquake that happened on the 1st of December, -1806, supposed to be one of the periodical shocks felt in Lima and its -vicinity; they have occurred in the following years:—1586, 1609, 1655, -1690, 1716, 1746, and 1806. This earthquake, however, did not extend its -desolating effects to the capital; these appear to have been limited by -the rivers of Barranca and Huaura, an extent of about ten leagues; but -the shock was felt at Ica, a hundred leagues to the southward, although -it was not perceived at Huaras, thirty leagues to the eastward.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417">[Pg 417]</a></span></p><p>No hollow sound was observed to precede this shock, a circumstance -particularly remarked by several of the old people, who said, that it -came on so suddenly, that the dogs did not hear it, nor the pigs smell -it, before every one felt the shock. I inquired their reason for thus -expressing themselves, and was informed, that it had always been found -when the shocks were severe, that they were announced by the howling of -the dogs and the squealing of the pigs. This effect, I think, can only -be accounted for by the dogs lying on the ground, and either hearing the -noise or feeling the motion before either become perceptible to the -people; and probably if any gaseous vapour be ejected the olfactory -nerves of the pigs may be affected by it. Immediately after the -earthquake many people saw red flames rising out of the sea, and others -burning over a low piece of ground on the shore called the Totoral. The -cattle which were feeding here at the time, died shortly afterwards from -the effect produced on the grass by this burning vapour.</p> - -<p>The motion of the earth during the shock was oscillatory, resembling the -waves of the sea; and the sensation which I experienced was similar to -that which is felt in a boat when approaching the land. The motion was -so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">[Pg 418]</a></span> great, that some bottles of wine and brandy, placed on a shelf about -two yards high and three from the door, were thrown from a shop into the -street to a distance of more than two feet from the door; if, therefore, -they fell from the shelf without any projecting impulse to impel them -forward, the wall must have inclined so as to form with its natural base -an angle of 25 degrees.</p> - -<p>The ground was rent in several places, and quantities of sand and a -species of mud were thrown into the air. Trees were torn up by the -roots; the church and several of the houses, both here and at Supe, were -destroyed; while Pativilca, a town at only two leagues distance, on the -opposite side of the river, suffered very trivially. The undulations of -the earth lasted twenty-one minutes; but there was no repetition of -shocks, nor was any subterraneous noise heard. The perpendicular height -of the land on the sea side is fifty-three yards, notwithstanding which -several canoes and boats were thrown by the waves nearly to the top, and -left among the trees, and for more than two months afterwards enormous -quantities of fish drifted daily on the beach.</p> - -<p>Perhaps the effect produced on the grass at the Totoral, and this on the -fish, may throw<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419">[Pg 419]</a></span> some light on the problem of the sterility occasioned -by earthquakes, which I have already noticed—in particular, as the -gaseous matter having become condensed was left on the surface to -produce its effect on the ground, where it could not be washed off by -the rains.</p> - -<p>An old mulatto, one of the four men who escaped at Callao in 1746, when -that city was submersed in the sea, assured me, that the convulsion -there did not appear to him so terrible as the one I have just -mentioned.</p> - -<p>Near to this village is a convenient port and landing place, called de -la Barranca, and about a mile to the northward of the village is the -river de la Barranca. During the rainy months, in the mountainous -districts of the interior, it is so filled with water, that its passage -is attended with considerable danger without the assistance of the -<i>chimbadoros</i>, ferrymen. The bottom is very stony, which also occasions -much danger, if the horses are not sure-footed and accustomed to ford -rivers. The rapidity of the current precludes the use of boats or -canoes, and its width would render the construction of a bridge -extremely expensive. I have often crossed it when the water covered the -space of half a mile, and was divided into thirteen or fourteen -branches, through some of which the horse on which I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">[Pg 420]</a></span> was mounted had to -swim. About six leagues from the main coast road, and the usual fording -place of the river, there is a bridge of ropes, made from the fibres of -the maguey leaves. These are first crushed between two stones, immersed -in water till the vegetable matter easily separates from the fibres, -when they are taken out, beat with a stick, washed, and dried; the ropes -are then twisted by hand, without the assistance of any machinery, the -fibrous parts of the leaves being inserted when the diminished strength -of the rope requires them. This bridge is called <i>de Cochas</i>, from the -small village which stands near to it: it is thirty-eight yards across. -On one side, the principal ropes, five in number, each about twelve -inches in circumference, are fastened to a large beam laid on the -ground, secured by two strong posts buried nearly to their tops: on the -opposite side the beam is secured by being placed behind two small -rocks. Across these five ropes a number of the flower stalks of the -maguey are laid, and upon them a quantity of old ropes and the fibrous -parts of leaves are strewed, to preserve the stalks and the principal -ropes. A net-work, instead of railings, is placed on each side, to -prevent the passengers from falling into the river. Although the whole -construction appears<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_421" id="Page_421">[Pg 421]</a></span> so flimsy, the breadth being only five feet, I -have seen droves of laden mules, as well as horned cattle, cross it; and -I have repeatedly done so myself, on horseback, after I had reconciled -myself to its tremulous motion.</p> - -<p>These swing bridges, which are common in South America, are called -<i>puentes de maroma</i>, or <i>de amaca</i>; and by the indians, <i>cimpachaca</i>, -bridge of ropes, or rather, of tresses—as cimpa signifies a platted -tress. Some persons, however, call them <i>huascachaca</i>, huasca being more -properly a twisted rope; but I apprehend that they were originally made -from platted ropes, in which the insertion of leaves is more easy.</p> - -<p>Bridges of this description were general in Peru before the conquest, -and they are unquestionably the best calculated for a mountainous -country, where some of the ravines requiring them are very steep, and -the currents impetuous. Bridges were likewise formed by the indians by -laying large beams across stone piers; but these were not so common nor -so appropriate as the rope bridges. The largest of them was over the -river Apurimac, which runs between Lima and Cusco, and is crossed by -travellers who frequent this road to and from the ancient and modern -capitals of Peru. The bridge was two hundred and forty feet long, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_422" id="Page_422">[Pg 422]</a></span> -nine feet broad; the ends of the principal ropes were fastened on one -side the river to rings of stone, cut in the solid rock: one of these -was broken in 1819, when the stream rose so high that it caught the -bridge, and dragged it away.</p> - -<p>Two leagues to the northward of Barranca is the neat village of -Pativilca, without any indian population: it was formerly a country -covered with wood, and a place of retreat for malefactors; but the -Viceroy Castel-forte sent people to form a village, and ordered a church -to be built, offering an indult to all persons who should leave the -bush, and build themselves houses in the town. By this wise policy he -accomplished his end—reclaiming many outcasts, and rendering the road -secure to travellers.</p> - -<p>While residing at Barranca I had an excellent opportunity of judging of -the condition of the slaves on the plantations; and I shall here give a -brief account of one of the best regulated that I visited, which was -Huaito, the property of Doña Josefa Salasar de Monteblanco.</p> - -<p>This plantation is principally dedicated to the cultivation of cane and -the elaboration of sugar; but a part is destined to ordinary -agricultural pursuits, such as the growth of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423">[Pg 423]</a></span> maize, beans, camotes, -pumpkins, &c., beside some pasture land for cattle. The number of slaves -employed on it, including all descriptions, is six hundred and -seventy-two; and the weight of sugar produced annually, according to the -statement given to me by Don Manuel Sotil, who superintended the -manufactory, is as follows:—</p> - -<table summary="sugar produced annually"> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="left">Loaves of clayed Sugar 9555, each weighing</td> - <td class="left">}</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="left">on an average 50 lbs. at 10 dollars per</td> - <td class="left">} 47770</td> - <td> dollars.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="left">quintal</td> - <td class="left">}</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="left">Chancaca, or coarse brown Sugar in cakes</td> - <td>6000</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="left">Coarse Sugar made from the refuse</td> - <td>1500</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="left">Molasses sold on the estate</td> - <td>600</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"></td> - <td>——</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="left">Value of produce of Sugar</td> - <td>55870</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"></td> - <td>——</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left">Expences:—</td> - <td class="left">Clothing of slaves at 10 dollars each </td> - <td>3720</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td class="left">Chaplain</td> - <td>200</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td class="left">Surgeon</td> - <td>300</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td class="left">Overseer</td> - <td>500</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td class="left">Sugar boiler</td> - <td>800</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td class="left">Premium to Slaves</td> - <td>600</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"></td> - <td class="left">Drugs</td> - <td>200</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td>——</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td>6320</td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td>——</td> - <td></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>The result of this statement is, that after defraying all the expences -of the cultivation of the cane, and the elaboration of the sugar, the -profit amounted to 49550 dollars.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424">[Pg 424]</a></span></p><p>Besides this profit, another of considerable importance was derived -from the feeding of cattle on extensive fields of lucern, and the -breeding of hogs. There was also generally, a surplus of maize and beans -beyond the consumption of the estate; but without this, according to the -valuation made of the whole estate, including buildings, slaves and -utensils, which amounted to 962000, the clear profit on this capital -exceeded five per cent.; which, with the assistance of the requisite -machinery for cultivating and harvesting the cane, and manufacturing the -sugar, might be doubled.</p> - -<p>I have made no deductions for the food of the slaves, because they were -maintained by the produce of the estate, leaving a great surplus for -sale; probably as much in value as would defray the expences of their -clothing.</p> - -<p>The cane usually cultivated in Peru is the creole; but in the year 1802 -plants of the Otaheitean cane were first introduced at Guayaquil, by Don -Jose Merino, who procured them from Jamaica, whence in 1806 they were -brought to some of the plantations of Peru, and from the advantageous -result which has been experienced in the growth of this cane, it would -follow that the creole will soon be exploded, notwithstanding the -assertion, that the sugar obtained<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_425" id="Page_425">[Pg 425]</a></span> from the cane of Otaheite abounds -more in mucilage than in essential salt, and that it is susceptible of -but a feeble consistency, which exposes it to decomposition on long -voyages, or if it be warehoused any considerable length of time. But the -Peruvian cultivator has neither of these drawbacks to fear, because -there is always an immediate demand for it at home, or the longest -voyage to which it is subjected is to Chile.</p> - -<p>The Otaheitean cane, on the same land, and with equal labour with the -creole, grows to the height of nine or ten feet in eighteen or twenty -months, while the creole only grows six in thirty-five or thirty-six -months, at which times they are respectively in a state of maturity. The -large canes of the former are from seven to eight inches in diameter, -but those of the latter seldom exceed three and a half, and the same -measure of juice produces nearly the same weight of sugar: besides this, -the saving of labour at the mills and manufactory is very great. The -cane of Otaheite is more tenacious, and comes from the cylinders whole, -while the creole is frequently completely crushed, and incapable of -being returned to the operation of the cylinders, on which account a -considerable portion of the juice is lost; the pressed cane of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_426" id="Page_426">[Pg 426]</a></span>Otaheite -is also conveyed to the furnace with much more facility than the other.</p> - -<p>The cane is usually planted in the foggy season, that it may have taken -root before the dry weather commences; the land is prepared by repeated -ploughings, and by breaking the lumps of earth with clubs, harrows and -rollers for this purpose being unknown. The ploughs are similar to those -used in Chile, and which I have already described. If suitable ploughs -and other utensils were introduced, it is easy to conceive what great -relief would be given to manual labour; and if the horse or mule were -substituted for the drowsy, slow-paced bullock, the result would be much -more favourable.</p> - -<p>The canes are planted in drills made with hoes, so formed, that when the -water for irrigation enters the upper end of a field it can flow without -any hinderance to the lower; but before this operation of watering takes -place the earth is hilled up to the plants. According to the dryness of -the season, and the quality of the land, irrigation is repeated three or -four times during the summer, and owing to the disposal of the furrows -it is neither laborious nor troublesome. The water is generally allowed -to remain on the ground twenty-four hours.</p> - -<p>When the cane is ripe it is cut close to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_427" id="Page_427">[Pg 427]</a></span> ground, and all the leaves -are stript off, which with the rubbish are left until the whole field be -cut, when they are burnt; and immediately afterwards the roots are -irrigated. The cane is carried to the mill on the backs of asses; but -for this purpose carts might be used with much saving of labour.</p> - -<p>In some parts of the province of Guayaquil and on the coast of Choco the -natives, who cultivate the cane for their household consumption of -molasses, guarapo, and rum, cut all that is ripe, leaving that which is -green; they next bare the roots, mix the soil so obtained with the soil -in the furrow, by digging and turning them over, and then hill up the -cane again. By repeating this operation every time they cut their cane, -they have a constant succession of crops, and the plantation never -fails; while in Peru a plantation only yields two crops, for the third -is often scarcely sufficient to plant the ground for the ensuing -harvest.</p> - -<p>The general method of pressing the cane is by means of three vertical -grooved brass cylinders, which are put in motion by two pairs of oxen, -yoked to two opposite points of a large wooden wheel, placed above the -cylinders, and attached at its centre to the axle of the central -cylinder, the cogs or teeth of which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428">[Pg 428]</a></span>communicate the rotatory motion to -the other two. This tardy method of pressing is used on many -plantations; but on the one I am now speaking of vertical water-wheels -supply the place of the bullocks, one wheel being attached to each mill. -There is however great room for improvement, particularly in the -adoption of iron cog and lantern wheels, or at least of metal cogs to -the large wheels, iron axletrees, &c.; but rude as the present plan is, -the expence of keeping a considerable number of oxen is avoided.</p> - -<p>The juice of the cane is received in the boiling house, in a large -bell-metal pan, a small quantity of lime being first thrown into it; -from this receiver it is carried in large calabashes to a pan ten feet -deep, where it is evaporated to a proper consistency, and at intervals -caustic ley is added to it, prepared at a considerable expence from the -ashes of the <i>espino</i>, or <i>huarango</i>. After throwing into the pan about -half a pint of this ley, a considerable quantity of fecula rises to the -top, which is immediately taken off with a skimmer made of a large -calabash, bored full of holes. When the syrup has become cool it is put -into another pan, and evaporated to a proper consistency for -crystallization; it is then poured into the moulds, made of common baked -clay, in which it is repeatedly stirred, and on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429">[Pg 429]</a></span>following day it is -transferred to the purging house, where the plug is taken from the -bottom of the mould, and the coarse molasses run from the sugar. It is -next removed to the claying house; each mould, like an inverted cone, is -placed on a jar, and soft clay of the consistency of batter poured on -the sugar. This operation is repeated three or four times, or till the -loaf is purged from the molasses it contained, when it is taken out of -the mould and carried into the store to dry. The whole process requires -a month or five weeks, according to the season, for it is much sooner -ready for the store house in damp weather than in dry. Unlike other -countries, where the cane is only cut during a certain season, on the -plantations on the coast of Peru it is cut and sugar is made from it -during the whole year.</p> - -<p>The pans for boiling the juice are of brass, being a mixture of copper -and tin; the lower pan is generally three feet in diameter at the -bottom, five feet at the top, and five feet deep; the rim which is -placed above this is three feet deep, and above that the brick and wood -work commences, making the whole boiler ten feet deep. The pans, -cylinders, and receivers are cast on the estate by the slaves, and by -them also all the carpentery and blacksmith work are performed.</p> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430">[Pg 430]</a></span></p><p>I have been rather more particular on this subject than some persons -may think necessary; but it has been with the view of opening another -outlet to British manufactures, namely, that of iron machinery and -implements of agriculture. If the evaporation of the cane juice were -effected by heat communicated by steam, or by preventing atmospheric -pressure on the surface of the liquid while boiling, a considerable -quantity of sugar which is burnt by the present method, and which -constitutes the molasses, would be saved: it would be an advantage of at -least thirty per cent. At the same time that I advert to iron machinery -for the mills, as an article worthy the attention of mercantile -speculators, I would also recommend some stills on an improved -principle, for the brandy distilleries at Pisco, Ica, Cañete, and other -vine countries, as well as those of rum; because the political change in -South America will annul the prohibitory colonial law, and because the -sugar manufacturer would be glad to convert to his advantage that refuse -from which the rum is distilled; at present it is a nuisance to him, or -if applied to any use, it is thrown to the oxen and asses, and they eat -it with great avidity.</p> - -<p>The management of the slaves here is worthy of the imitation of every -planter, both with regard to the comfort of the negroes, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431">[Pg 431]</a></span> -profitable result to the owner. I shall describe the laws established, -and mention some other regulations which I suggested to Doña Josefa, -which she approved, and put in practice: she afterwards frequently told -me, that they deserved to be generally adopted, because they would -eventually tend to ameliorate the condition of the slave and benefit the -proprietor.</p> - -<p>A slave was never flogged at Huaito without the consent of the mistress, -who, having heard the complaint made by the overseer or other -task-master, adjudged the number of lashes to be inflicted, or else -determined on some other means of punishment, which she thought more -proper. Her motive for this regulation was, to prevent their being -improperly chastised by any one during the heat of passion, or perhaps -under the influence of revenge. The slave was never questioned as to the -imputed delinquency, because, as she observed, it would only induce them -to disregard the overseer, if he were not implicitly believed, or the -slave were allowed to contradict him. When any doubt presented itself, -she would sometimes send for some other slave, who had either been -present or was near at the time, and make the necessary inquiry; but she -would often say,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_432" id="Page_432">[Pg 432]</a></span> that she trusted very little to what they said about -each other, quoting the old Spanish proverb as a reason, <i>la peor cuña, -is del mismo palo</i>, the worst wedge is from the same block.</p> - -<p>No slave was punished privately; those at least were present who were -acquainted with the crime which had been committed.</p> - -<p>If a slave absented himself, and were afterwards caught, he was -sentenced for the first offence to carry a chain at his leg as many -weeks as he had been absent days; for a repetition, he was sentenced to -the mill, where the most laborious work is to be done; it is also -esteemed the most degrading situation, very few except delinquents being -employed at it. If a recurrence took place, the slave was kept at the -mill during the day with a chain to his leg, and slept in the gaol -during the night. If the fugitive returned home and presented himself to -his mistress, he was pardoned for the first offence; the penalty of the -first was inflicted if it were the second; and that of the second if it -were the third; after which, if the slave persevered in running away he -was sold.</p> - -<p>To promote marriages, all children born out of wedlock were sold while -young; and as the slaves, except some few domestic servants, were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_433" id="Page_433">[Pg 433]</a></span> all -negroes, if a tawny child made its appearance it was also sold: this -mode was adopted to prevent the negresses from having any intercourse -with the people of the neighbouring villages.</p> - -<p>The negresses from the age of eleven or twelve years were kept separate -from the men, and slept within the walls of the house, under the care of -a <i>duenna</i>, until they were married.</p> - -<p>The greatest care was taken of child-bearing women, both with regard to -relief from work and the administration of proper food; a separate -building, called the lying-in hospital, was furnished with beds and -other comforts for them; and if a slave reared six children so that they -could walk, she obtained her liberty, or a release from work for herself -and husband for three days in each week; when, if they worked on the -estate, they were regularly paid for their labour.</p> - -<p>As an improvement of this regulation, I proposed the allowing one day of -rest weekly either to the father or the mother for each child; and Doña -Josefa acknowledged the propriety of it, for, said she, the manumission -of a slave is his ruin if young, and the origin of his distress if old. -She assured me that, at different times, she had given freedom to fifty -slaves, out of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434">[Pg 434]</a></span> whom, she was sorry to say, she could not find one -useful member of society; much less one that was grateful to herself, -although all of them were young at the time they were manumitted, and -some had been put to different trades at her expence. I have frequently -observed, that nine-tenths of the convicts for different crimes at Lima -were freed slaves, generally zambos.</p> - -<p>I am convinced from experience, that if proper magistrates were -appointed in all districts where there is a number of slaves, each -having a competent salary for his subsistence, but removeable every -year, to prevent private connexions with the planters, that the state of -slavery would be freed from its greatest evil, that of a human creature -being subjected to the whip of an offended, irritable, or unjust master; -for how can justice prevail where the plaintiff is the judge, and the -defendant the criminal? or when <i>a prima instantia</i> the accused is -brought to receive his sentence, or suffer the infliction of an -arbitrary punishment. If proprietors were prohibited from using the -whip, or any other cruel chastisements, without the concurrence of an -order from the magistrate, who should inquire summarily into the -circumstances, under the penalty of a heavy fine, the odious epithet of -slave-driver would lose its stigma, at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_435" id="Page_435">[Pg 435]</a></span> same time that the slave -would reverence the law that protected as well as punished him, instead -of hating his arbitrary master, and lurking for an opportunity of -revenge. It is the interest as well as the duty of a master to preserve -the health and life of his slave, and the slave has only to dread the -presence of his master under the influence of passion or misinformation: -let this occasion for the exercise of cruelty be avoided, by -transferring the authority to punish from the interested master to an -unbiassed person, and the hand of justice would fall like the -invigorating dew of heaven, while that of passion often rages like the -destructive tornado.</p> - -<p>The principal food of the slaves at Huaito was the flour of maize boiled -with water to the consistency of a hardish paste, to this was added a -quantity of molasses; and beans boiled in the same manner. They had meat -once or twice a week, either fresh or jerked beef. The quantity allowed -was quite sufficient; and I have frequently seen them feeding their -poultry with what they could not eat. Each married man and each widow or -widower was presented annually with a small pig, which they reared with -the refuse of the cane, and some pumpkins which they cultivated: it was -afterwards fattened with maize from their own small plots<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_436" id="Page_436">[Pg 436]</a></span> of ground. -This was an inducement to the slaves to marry, and it kept them from -strolling abroad on Sundays and holidays. Indeed, all the married had -small portions of land allotted to them, and were allowed the use of the -oxen and ploughs belonging to the estate. On an average two hundred fat -pigs were sold annually by the slaves at Huaito, and these generally -produced twelve dollars each; so that two thousand four hundred dollars -were distributed yearly among the slaves for this article alone; but -several of the more industrious fed two, three, or four pigs, by -purchasing maize for them. A convincing proof of their comfortable life -was afforded on a Sunday afternoon; many of the negresses, dressed in -white muslins or gaudily printed calicoes, gold ear-rings, rosaries and -necklaces, stockings and coloured shoes, and a profusion of -handkerchiefs, might be seen dancing with the negro youths to the sound -of their large drums and unharmonious songs: this exhibition certainly -evinced that their minds were uncankered with care.</p> - -<p>Each slave had two working dresses given to him yearly; the men a -flannel shirt and woollen trowsers—the women a flannel petticoat and a -cotton shirt with long sleeves; they had also an allowance of blankets -and ponchos, but whatever<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_437" id="Page_437">[Pg 437]</a></span> other clothes they possessed were purchased -by themselves. Weekly premiums and a small quantity of tobacco were -given according to the class of work in which they were individually -employed; they were also permitted to have the skimmings and other -refuse from the sugar-house for their <i>guarapo</i> or fermented drink.</p> - -<p>The <i>galpon</i>, where the slaves lived, on this as on every other -plantation, was a large square enclosure, walled round about twelve feet -high; it was divided into streets, having an open square in the centre -for dancing and their other amusements; the small houses were uniform, -and whitewashed, which with the clean streets made a very neat -appearance. The slaves slept in the galpon, by which means they were -kept from visiting the neighbouring villages or plantations and from -committing depredations.</p> - -<p>Mass was celebrated every morning at six o'clock, and those who chose to -hear it had sufficient time, as the field labourers never went to work -till seven; their tasks were light, they had two hours' rest at noon, -and always returned at six in the evening, and many at four in the -afternoon; after which they attended to their own little farms. I am -certain that a labourer in England does more work in <i>one</i> day than<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_438" id="Page_438">[Pg 438]</a></span> any -slave I ever saw in the Spanish colonies performs in <i>three</i>. Those -employed at the mills are more hours at work; but this is considered a -punishment: those employed in the sugar-house have also more hours to -attend; but they have always sufficient rest between the time of -emptying one pan and waiting till it boils again, and this leisure some -occupy in making baskets or in knitting stockings for their own profit.</p> - -<p>The slaves are mustered at mass on Sundays and holidays, and are -required to confess, and receive the communion once a year. The chaplain -teaches the boys and girls the necessary prayers and catechisms, and -superintends the moral conduct of the slaves, being allowed to order -them for punishment in cases of misbehaviour, on reporting them to their -mistress.</p> - -<p>I am ignorant of the treatment which the slaves may receive in the -British colonies; but I feel loath to believe that that mercy which I -have observed to guide the actions of a Spaniard or a Spanish creole -should be a stranger in the breast of an Englishman or an English -creole. If the lot of English slaves be not worse than that of Spanish -slaves, they are more fortunate and more happy than the labouring -classes at home. I have no doubt, but that if a slave were brought to -England, and subjected to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439">[Pg 439]</a></span> half-starved and hard-worked state of a -day-labourer—to experience all his penury and all his privations—he -would lift up his hands, and request that he might return to his master, -who fed him when hungry, clothed him when naked, and attended to his -wants when sick. If any thing be really wanting to ameliorate the -condition of the English slave, let a wise legislature enact such -regulations as will secure it to him; not place in his hand a weapon -wherewith to sacrifice his master in a fit of frantic exasperation; let -English slaves enjoy the blessings of the English poor, the boast of -every Englishman—an impartial distribution of justice—an equality in -the administration of the law. It is as preposterous to suppose that the -same law should not govern the master and the slave, as that a judge -should not be amenable to the law by which he judges others: and I -sincerely hope, for the honour of my country and countrymen, that they -all feel as did my Uncle Toby: "'tis the fortune of war that has put the -whip into our hands now, where it will be afterwards heaven only knows; -but be it where it will, the brave, Trim, will never use it unkindly."</p> - -<p class="center space-above">END OF VOLUME I.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_440" id="Page_440">[Pg 440]</a></span></p> - -<p class="space-above"> </p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - -<p class="center"><i>Printed by Harris and Co.<br />Liverpool.</i></p> - -<hr class="smler" /> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Historical and Descriptive Narrative -of Twenty Years' Residence in South America (Vol 1 of 3), by William Bennet Stevenson - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RESIDENCE IN SOUTH AMERICA *** - -***** This file should be named 55775-h.htm or 55775-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/7/7/55775/ - -Produced by Josep Cols Canals, Martin Pettit and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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