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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #54923 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/54923)
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-Project Gutenberg's In Wildest Africa Vol 2 (of 2), by Carl Georg Schillings
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-Title: In Wildest Africa Vol 2 (of 2)
-
-Author: Carl Georg Schillings
-
-Release Date: June 16, 2017 [EBook #54923]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN WILDEST AFRICA VOL 2 (OF 2) ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Greg Weeks, Kim, Wayne Hammond and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
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-
-
-IN WILDEST AFRICA
-
-
-
-
-  IN WILDEST AFRICA
-
-  BY
-  C. G. SCHILLINGS
-  AUTHOR OF “WITH FLASHLIGHT AND RIFLE IN EQUATORIAL EAST AFRICA”
-
-  TRANSLATED BY
-  FREDERIC WHYTE
-
-  =WITH OVER 300 PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIES DIRECT FROM THE AUTHOR’S
-  NEGATIVES, TAKEN BY DAY AND NIGHT; AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS=
-
-  VOL. II
-
-  LONDON
-  HUTCHINSON & CO.
-  PATERNOSTER ROW
-  1907
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: YOUNG DWARF ANTELOPE]
-
-Contents of Vol. II
-
-
-  CHAP                                                              PAGE
-
-  VIII. IN A PRIMEVAL FOREST                                         319
-
-  IX. AFTER ELEPHANTS WITH WANDOROBO                                 370
-
-  X. RHINOCEROS-HUNTING                                              431
-
-  XI. THE CAPTURING OF A LION                                        470
-
-  XII. A DYING RACE OF GIANTS                                        511
-
-  XIII. A VANISHING FEATURE OF THE VELT                              550
-
-  XIV. CAMPING OUT ON THE VELT                                       578
-
-  XV. NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY UNDER DIFFICULTIES                           637
-
-  XVI. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAY AND BY NIGHT                               657
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: CORMORANTS.]
-
-List of Illustrations in Vol. II
-
-
-  PAGE
-
-  Young Dwarf Antelope                                                 v
-
-  Cormorants                                                         vii
-
-  Spurred Geese                                                      319
-
-  Views of Kilimanjaro                                     322, 323, 327
-
-  River-bed Vegetation on the Velt                                   331
-
-  A Fisherman’s Bag                                                  335
-
-  Clatter-bills                                                 340, 341
-
-  A Marsh-land View                                                  346
-
-  Snow-white Herons                                                  347
-
-  A Pair of Crested Cranes                                           349
-
-  A Snake-vulture                                                    349
-
-  Preparing to Skin a Hippopotamus                                   352
-
-  Hippopotami Swimming                                               353
-
-  Head of a Hippopotamus                                             357
-
-  A Wandorobo Chief                                                  359
-
-  Egyptian Geese                                                     364
-
-  A Wounded Buffalo                                                  365
-
-  Hunting Record-card                                                367
-
-  A Sea-gull                                                         369
-
-  A Masai throwing his Spear                                         370
-
-  A Hippopotamus on his way to the Swamp                    _facing_ 370
-
-  Oryx Antelopes                                                     374
-
-  Waterbuck                                                          375
-
-  Wandorobo Guides on the March                                      380
-
-  A Party of Wandorobo Hunters                                       381
-
-  A Feast of Honey                                                   386
-
-  Acacia-tree denuded by Elephants                                   387
-
-  An Oryx Antelope’s Methods of Defence                              389
-
-  A Dwarf Kudu                                                       390
-
-  Zebras                                                             392
-
-  Giraffe Studies                                                    392
-
-  Zebras on the open Velt                                            393
-
-  Laden Masai Donkeys                                                397
-
-  Pearl-hens on an Acacia-tree                                       393
-
-  A pair of Grant’s Gazelles taking to Flight               _facing_ 398
-
-  Grant’s Gazelles                                                   402
-
-  A Good Instance of Protective Colouring                            402
-
-  Grant’s Gazelles                                         403, 408, 409
-
-  Young Masai Hartebeest                                             411
-
-  A Herd of Hartebeests                                              414
-
-  Hartebeests with Young                                             415
-
-  Waterbuck                                                          415
-
-  The Skinning of an Elephant                                   420, 421
-
-  A Missionary’s Dwelling                                            424
-
-  Elephants killed by the Author                                426, 427
-
-  Some African Trophies                                              429
-
-  Black-headed Herons                                                431
-
-  Rhinoceros Heads                                              434, 435
-
-  An Eland Bull                                             _facing_ 438
-
-  An Eland, just before the Finishing Shot                           441
-
-  An Eland Bull                                                      445
-
-  Rhinoceroses, with and without Horns                          450, 451
-
-  Snapshot of a Rhinoceros at twenty paces                           455
-
-  Shelter from a Rhinoceros                                          459
-
-  An Emaciated Rhinoceros                                            461
-
-  Specimen of Stone against which Rhinoceroses whet their Horns      463
-
-  A “Rhino” in sitting posture                              _facing_ 464
-
-  A Rock-pool on Kilimanjaro                                         467
-
-  Masai Killing a Hyena with Clubs                                   470
-
-  The Moods of a Lion Cub                                       472, 473
-
-  Record of a Lion-hunt                                              479
-
-  A Lion at Bay                                                      483
-
-  Studies of a Trapped Lion                                          485
-
-  The Lion ... had dragged the Trap some distance           _facing_ 488
-
-  Carrying a Live Lion to Camp                                       489
-
-  A Captured Lioness                                                 492
-
-  A Trapped Lion roaring                                             493
-
-  Flashlight Photograph of a Lion                                    495
-
-  Photograph of a Lion at five paces                                 499
-
-  Hauling a Live Hyena into Camp                                     501
-
-  Hyena Chained up in Camp                                           505
-
-  Masai making game of a Trapped Hyena                               507
-
-  Specimens of Elephant-tusks                                        511
-
-  Record Elephant-tusks                                              513
-
-  A Store of Elephant-tusks                                          517
-
-  Auk and Auk’s Egg                                                  521
-
-  Thicket frequented by Elephants                                    525
-
-  Velt Fires                                                    532, 533
-
-  An old Acacia-tree                                                 537
-
-  Studies of Elephants in Dense Forest Growth               _facing_ 540
-
-  Elephants and Giraffe--a Quaint Companionship                 544, 545
-
-  A Young Lion                                                       549
-
-  Study in Protective “Mimicry”                                      550
-
-  Giraffe Studies                           552, 553; 558, 559; 564, 565
-
-  Giraffes in Characteristic Surroundings                   _facing_ 568
-
-  Head of a Giraffe                                                  569
-
-  Giraffe Studies                                               574, 575
-
-  _Giraffa schillingsi_, Mtsch.                             _facing_ 576
-
-  Crested Cranes on the Wing                                         577
-
-  Hungry Vultures                                                    578
-
-  Pitching Camp                                                      579
-
-  My Taxidermist at Work                                             581
-
-  Termite Ant-hills                                                  583
-
-  An unusually large Ant-hill                                        587
-
-  Prince Löwenstein                                                  589
-
-  Destroying an Ant-hill with Pick and Shovel                        590
-
-  Serving out Provisions                                             592
-
-  Bearer’s Wife preparing a Meal                                     592
-
-  Young Baboons in front of my Tent                                  593
-
-  Young Ostriches                                                    593
-
-  Marabou Nests                                                 595, 598
-
-  Feathered members of my Camp                                       599
-
-  A rather Mixed-up Photograph                                       601
-
-  My Rhinoceros: in the Berlin “Zoo” and on the Velt            606, 607
-
-  How my captive “Rhino” was Carried to Camp                         612
-
-  Carrying a Dead Leopard                                            612
-
-  My “Rhino” and her Two Companions                                  613
-
-  A Young Hyena extracted from its Lair                              613
-
-  Vultures:
-    On the Wing                                                      618
-    Hovering over a Carcase                                          619
-    Moving away from a Carcase                                       621
-
-  My Pelicans                                                        623
-
-  A Siesta in Camp                                                   625
-
-  A Strange Friendship                                               628
-
-  “Fatima” Prowling Round                                            629
-
-  Carrying a fine Leopard                                            631
-
-  Killing Game in accordance with Mohammedan rites                   633
-
-  Cutting up the Carcase                                             633
-
-  A Trapped Leopard                                                  635
-
-  The Baboon and the Little Black Lady                               636
-
-  Moonlight on the Velt                                     _facing_ 636
-
-  A Fowl of the Velt                                                 637
-
-  A River-horse Resort                                               639
-
-  One of the Peaks of Donje-Erok                                     641
-
-  Drawing Water for the March                                        643
-
-  Vultures                                                           645
-
-  Flashlight Photographs                                        648, 649
-
-  My Night-apparatus in position                                     653
-
-  A Pet of the Caravan                                               654
-
-  A Baobab-tree                                                      655
-
-  Flashlight Photograph of a Mongoose                                657
-
-  Apparatus for Night Photography                               660, 661
-
-  Vultures contesting the Possession of Carrion                      665
-
-  First Dry-plate Photograph, probably,
-    ever taken in the African Desert                                 667
-
-  Photographic Mishaps:
-    Cracked Glass Plate                                              669
-    Plate Exposed Twice                                              673
-
-  Telephotograph of Ostriches                                        677
-
-  Photographs of Birds taken at distances
-    varying from 20 to 200 paces                                     681
-
-  Telephotographs of Birds on the Wing                               683
-
-  Dwarf Gazelle, photographed at sixty paces                         684
-
-  Jackal taking to Flight, startled by the Flashlight                685
-
-  Lioness frightened away from Carcase
-    by the Flashlight                                       _facing_ 688
-
-  Aiming at a Pigeon and Hitting a Crow!                    _facing_ 688
-
-  Hand-camera Photograph of a Jackal                                 689
-
-  Photograph of a Jackal taken with my
-    first Night-apparatus                                            689
-
-  Flashlight Photography: my Native Models                           691
-
-  Flashlight Failures                                 694, 695; 697, 698
-
-  Photographic Studies of Antelopes shot by the Author               699
-
-  Jackals                                                   _facing_ 702
-
-  East-African Antelopes shot by the Author                          703
-
-  More Antelopes                                                     707
-
-  Spotted and Striped Hyenas and Jackal                              711
-
-  A Jackal in full Flight                                            713
-
-  Guinea-fowl                                                        715
-
-  Farewell to Africa                                                 716
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: SPURRED GEESE (_PLECTROPTERUS GAMBENSIS_).]
-
-VIII
-
-In a Primeval Forest
-
-
-Scenes of marvellous beauty open out before the wanderer who follows
-the windings of some great river through the unknown regions of
-Equatorial East Africa.
-
-The dark, turbid stream is to find its way, after a thousand twists
-and turns, into the Indian Ocean. Filterings from the distant glaciers
-of Kilimanjaro come down into the arid velt, there to form pools and
-rivulets that traverse in part the basin of the Djipe Lake and at last
-are merged in the Rufu River. As is so often the case with African
-rivers, the banks of the Rufu are densely wooded throughout its long
-course, the monotony of which is broken by a number of rapids and one
-big waterfall. Save in those rare spots where the formation of the
-soil is favourable to their growth, the woods do not extend into the
-velt. Trees and shrubs alike become parched a few steps away from the
-sustaining river. The abundance of fish in the river is tremendous in
-its wilder reaches--inexhaustible, it would seem, despite the thousands
-of animal enemies. The river continually overflows its banks, and the
-resulting swamps give such endless opportunities for spawning that at
-times every channel is alive with fry and inconceivable multitudes of
-small fishes.
-
-It is only here and there and for short stretches that the river is
-lost in impenetrable thickets. Marvellous are those serried ranks of
-trees! marvellous, too, the sylvan galleries through which more usually
-it shapes its way! They take the eye captive and seem to withhold
-some unsuspected secret, some strange riddle, behind their solid mass
-of succulent foliage. It is strange that these primeval trees should
-still survive in all their strength with all the parasitic plants and
-creepers that cling to them, strangling them in their embrace. You
-would almost say that they lived on but as a prop to support the plants
-and creepers in their fight for life. Convolvuli, white and violet,
-stoop forward over the water, and the golden yellow acacia blossoms
-brighten the picture.
-
-In the more open reaches dragonflies and butterflies glisten all
-around us in the moist atmosphere. A grass-green tree-snake glides
-swiftly through the branches of a shrub close by. A Waran (_Waranus
-niloticus_) runs to the water with a strange sudden rustle through
-the parched foliage. Everywhere are myriads of insects. Wherever you
-look, the woods teem with life. These woods screen the river from the
-neighbouring velt, the uniformity of which is but seldom broken in upon
-by patches of vegetation. The character of the flora has something
-northern about it to the unlearned eye, as is the case so often in
-East Africa. It is only when you come suddenly upon the Dutch palms
-(_Borassus æthiopicus_, Mart., or the beautiful _Hyphæne thebaica_,
-Mart.) that you feel once again that you are in the tropics.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-VIEW OF MAWENZI, THE HIGHEST PEAK BUT ONE OF KILIMANJARO, TAKEN WITH A
-TELEPHOTO-LENS.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-VIEW OF KILIMANJARO, TAKEN AT SUNSET.]
-
-The river now makes a great curve round to the right. A different kind
-of scene opens out to the gaze--a great stretch of open country. In the
-foreground the mud-banks of the stream are astir with huge crocodiles
-gliding into the water and moving about this way and that, like
-tree-trunks come suddenly to life. Now they vanish from sight, but only
-to take up their position in ambush, ready to snap at any breathing
-thing that comes unexpectedly within their reach. Doubtless they find
-it the more easy to sink beneath the surface of the river by reason of
-the great number of sometimes quite heavy stones they have swallowed,
-and have inside them. I have sometimes found as much as seven pounds of
-stones and pebbles in the stomach of a crocodile.
-
-The deep reaches of the river are their special domain. Multitudes of
-birds frequent the shallows, knowing from experience that they are safe
-from their enemy. One of the most interesting things that have come
-under my observation is the way these birds keep aloof from the deep
-waters which the crocodiles infest. I have mentioned it elsewhere, but
-am tempted to allude to it once again.
-
-Our attention is caught by the wonderful wealth of bird-life now spread
-out before us in every direction. Here comes a flock of the curious
-clatter-bills (_Anastomus lamelligerus_, Tem.) in their simple but
-attractive plumage. They have come in quest of food. Hundreds of other
-marsh-birds of all kinds have settled on the outspread branches of the
-trees, and enable us to distinguish between their widely differing
-notes.
-
-Among these old trees that overhang the river, covered with creepers
-and laden with fruit of quaint shape, are Kigelia, tamarinds, and
-acacias. In amongst the dense branches a family of Angolan guereza apes
-(_Colobus palliatus_, Ptrs.) and a number of long-tailed monkeys are
-moving to and fro. Now a flock of snowy-feathered herons (_Herodias
-garzetta_, L., and _Bubulcus ibis_, L.) flash past, dazzlingly
-white--two hundred of them, at least--alighting for a moment on the
-brittle branches and pausing in their search for food. Gravely moving
-their heads about from side to side, they impart a peculiar charm to
-the trees. Now another flock of herons (_Herodias alba_, L.), also
-dazzlingly white, but birds of a larger growth, speed past, flying for
-their lives. Why is it that even here, in this remote sanctuary of
-animal life, within which I am the first European trespasser, these
-beautiful birds are so timorous? Who can answer that question with any
-certainty? All we know is, that it has come to be their nature to scour
-about from place to place in perpetual flight. Perhaps in other lands
-they have made acquaintance with man’s destructiveness. Perhaps they
-are endowed with keener senses than their smaller snow-white kinsfolk,
-which suffer us to approach so near, and which, like the curious
-clatter-bill (which have never yet been seen in captivity), evince no
-sign of shyness--nothing but a certain mild surprise--at the sight
-of man.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-KIBO IN THE FOREGROUND, WITH THE SADDLE-SHAPED RANGE CONNECTING IT WITH
-MAWENZI IN THE DISTANCE. THE AVERAGE HEIGHT OF THIS “SADDLE” IS MORE
-THAN 16,OOO FEET.]
-
-Now, with a noisy clattering of wings, those less comely creatures,
-the Hagedasch ibises, rise in front of us, filling the air with their
-extraordinary cry: “Heiha! Ha heiha!”
-
-Now we have a strange spectacle before our eyes--a number of wild
-geese, perched upon the trees. The great, heavy birds make several
-false starts before they make up their minds to escape to safety. They
-present a beautiful sight as they make off on their powerful wings.
-They are rightly styled “spurred geese,” by reason of the sharp spurs
-they have on their wings. Hammerheads (_Scopus umbretta_, Gm.) move
-about in all directions. A colony of darters now comes into sight, and
-monopolises my attention. A few of their flat-shaped nests are visible
-among the pendent branches of some huge acacias, rising from an island
-in mid-stream. While several of the long-necked fishing-birds seek
-safety in flight, others--clearly the females--remain seated awhile on
-the eggs in their nests, but at last, with a sudden dart, take also to
-their wings and disappear. Beneath the nesting-places of these birds
-I found great hidden shaded cavities, the resorts for ages past of
-hippopotami, which find a safe and comfortable haven in these small
-islands.
-
-The dark forms of these fishing-birds present a strange appearance in
-full flight. They speed past you swiftly, looking more like survivals
-from some earlier age than like birds of our own day. There is a
-suggestion of flying lizards about them. Here they come, describing
-a great curve along the river’s course, at a fair height. They are
-returning to their nests, and as they draw near I get a better chance
-of observing the varying phases of their flight.
-
-But look where I may, I see all around me a wealth of tropical
-bird-life. Snow-white herons balance themselves on the topmost
-branches of the acacias. Barely visible against the deep-blue sky, a
-brood-colony of wood ibis pelicans (_Tantalus ibis_, L.) fly hither
-and thither, seeking food for their young. Other species of herons,
-notably the black-headed heron, so like our own common heron (_Ardea
-melanocephala_, Vig., Childr.), and further away a great flock of
-cow-herons (_Bubulcus ibis_, L.), brooding on the acacias upon the
-island, attract my attention. Egyptian Kingfishers (_Ceryle rudis_, L.)
-dart down to the water’s edge, and return holding tiny fishes in their
-beaks to their perch above.
-
-The numbers and varieties of birds are in truth almost bewildering to
-the spectator. Here is a marabou which has had its midday drink and
-is keeping company for the moment with a pair of fine-looking saddled
-storks (_Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis_, Shaw); there great regiments
-of crested cranes; single specimens of giant heron (_Ardea goliath_,
-Cretzschm.) keep on the look-out for fish in a quiet creek; on the
-sandbanks, and in among the thickets alongside, a tern (_Œdicnemus
-vermiculatus_, Cab.) is enjoying a sense of security. Near it are
-gobbling Egyptian geese and small plovers. A great number of cormorants
-now fly past, some of them settling on the branches of a tree which has
-fallen into the water. They are followed by Tree-geese (_Dendrocygna
-viduata_, L.), some plovers and night-herons, numerous sea-swallows
-as well as seagulls; snipe (_Gallinago media_, Frisch.), and the
-strange painted snipe (_Rostratula bengalensis_, L.), the _Actophylus
-africanus_, and marsh-fowl (_Ortygometra pusilla obscura_, Neum.),
-spurred lapwing (_Hoplopterus speciosus_, Lcht.), and many other
-species. Now there rings out, distinguishable from all the others, the
-clear cry--to me already so familiar and so dear--of the screeching
-sea-eagle, that most typical frequenter of these riverside regions of
-Africa and so well meriting its name. A chorus of voices, a very Babel
-of sound, breaks continually upon the ear, for the varieties of small
-birds are also well represented in this region. The most beautiful
-of all are the cries of the organ-shrike and of the sea-eagle. The
-veritable concerts of song, however, that you hear from time to time
-are beyond the powers of description, and can only be cherished in the
-memory.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-RIVER-BED VEGETATION ON THE VELT.]
-
-There is a glamour about the whole life of the African wonderland that
-recalls the forgotten fairy tales of childhood’s days, a sense of
-stillness and loveliness. Every curve of the stream tells of secrets
-to be unearthed and reveals unsuspected beauties, in the forms and
-shapes of the Phœnix palms and all the varieties of vegetation; in the
-indescribable tangle of the creepers; in the ever-changing effects
-of light and shade; finally in the sudden glimpses into the life of
-the animals that here make their home. You see the deep, hollowed-out
-passages down to the river that tell of the coming and going of the
-hippopotamus and rhinoceros, made use of also by the crocodiles. It is
-with a shock of surprise that you see a specimen of our own great red
-deer come hither at midday to quench his thirst--a splendid figure,
-considerably bigger and stronger than he is to be seen elsewhere. A
-herd of wallowing wart-hogs or river-swine will sometimes startle you
-into hasty retreat before you realise what they are. The tree-tops
-rock under the weight and motion of apes unceasingly scurrying from
-branch to branch. Every now and again the eye is caught by the sight of
-groups of crocodiles, now basking contentedly in the sun, now betaking
-themselves again to the water in that stealthy, sinister, gliding way
-of theirs.
-
-Not so long ago the African traveller found such scenes as these along
-the banks of every river. Nowadays, too many have been shorn of all
-these marvels. Take, for instance, the old descriptions of the Orange
-River and of the animal life met with along its course. No trace of it
-now remains.
-
-I should like to give a picture of the animal life still extant along
-the banks of the Pangani. The time is inevitably approaching when that,
-too, will be a thing of the past, for it is not to be supposed that
-advancing civilisation will prove less destructive here.
-
-So recently as the year 1896 the course of the river was for the most
-part unknown. When I followed it for the second time in 1897, and when
-in subsequent years I explored both its banks for great distances,
-people were still so much in the dark about it that several expeditions
-were sent out to discover whether it was navigable.
-
-That it was not navigable I myself had long known. Its numerous rapids
-are impracticable for boats even in the rainy season. In the dry
-season they present insuperable obstacles to navigation of any kind.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A FISHERMAN’S BAG! THREE CROCODILES SECURED BY THE AUTHOR IN THE WAY
-DESCRIBED IN “WITH FLASHLIGHT AND RIFLE.”]
-
-The basin of the Djipe Lake in the upper reaches of the Pangani, and
-the Pangani swamps below its lower reaches, formed a kind of natural
-preserve for every variety of the marvellous fauna of East Africa. It
-was a veritable El Dorado for the European sportsman, but one attended
-by all kinds of perils and difficulties. The explorer found manifold
-compensation, however, for everything in the unexampled opportunities
-afforded him for the study of wild life in the midst of these stifling
-marshes and lagoons. The experience of listening night after night to
-the myriad voices of the wilderness is beyond description.
-
-Hippopotami were extraordinarily numerous at one time in the
-comparatively small basin of the Djipe Lake. In all my long sojourn
-by the banks of the Pangani I only killed two, and I never again went
-after any. There were such numbers, however, round Djipe Lake ten years
-ago that you often saw dozens of them together at one time. I fear that
-by now they have been nearly exterminated.
-
-Here, as everywhere else, the natives have levied but a small tribute
-upon the numbers of the wild animals, a tribute in keeping with the
-nature of their primitive weapons. Elephants used regularly to make
-their way down to the water-side from the Kilimanjaro woods. My old
-friend Nguruman, the Ndorobo chieftain, used to lie in wait for them,
-with his followers, concealed in the dense woods along the river. But
-the time came when the elephants ceased to make their appearance. The
-old hunter, whose body bore signs of many an encounter with lions as
-well as elephants, and who used often to hold forth to me beside camp
-fires on the subject of these adventures, could not make out why his
-eagerly coveted quarry had become so scarce. Every other species of
-“big game” was well represented, however, and according to the time of
-the year I enjoyed ever fresh opportunities for observation. Generally
-speaking, it would be a case of watching one aspect of wild life one
-day and another all the next, but now and again my eyes and ears would
-be surfeited and bewildered by its manifestations. The sketch-plans on
-which I used to record my day’s doings and seeings serve now to recall
-to me all the multiform experiences that fell to my lot. What a pity it
-is that the old explorers of South Africa have left no such memoranda
-behind them for our benefit! They would enable us to form a better idea
-of things than we can derive from any kind of pictures or descriptions.
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-I shall try now to give some notion of all the different sights I would
-sometimes come upon in a single day. It would often happen that, as I
-was making my way down the Pangani in my light folding craft, or else
-was setting out for the velt which generally lay beyond its girdle of
-brushwood, showers of rain would have drawn herds of elephants down
-from the mountains.[1] Even when I did not actually come within sight
-of them, it was always an intense enjoyment to me to trace the
-immense footsteps of these nocturnal visitors. Perhaps the cunning
-animals would have already put several miles between my camp and their
-momentary stopping place. But their tracks afforded me always most
-interesting clues to their habits, all the more valuable by reason
-of the rare chances one has of observing them in daylight, when they
-almost always hide away in impenetrable thickets. What excitement there
-is in the stifled cry “Tembo!” In a moment your own eye perceives the
-unmistakable traces of the giant’s progress. The next thing to do is to
-examine into the tracks and ascertain as far as possible the number,
-age and sex of the animals. Then you follow them up, though generally,
-as I have said, in vain.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-CLATTER-BILLS SETTLING UPON THE BARE BRANCHES OF RIVERSIDE TREES.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-CLATTER-BILLS (_ANASTOMUS LAMELLIGERUS_, Tem.).]
-
-The hunter, however, who without real hope of overtaking the elephants
-themselves yet persists in following up their tracks just because
-they have so much to tell him, will be all the readier to turn aside
-presently, enticed in another direction by the scarcely less notable
-traces of a herd of buffaloes. Follow these now and you will soon
-discover that they too have found safety, having made their way into an
-impenetrable morass. To make sure of this you must perhaps clamber up
-a thorny old mimosa tree, all alive with ants--not a very comfortable
-method of getting a bird’s-eye view. Numbers of snow-white ox-peckers
-flying about over one particular point in the great wilderness of reeds
-and rushes betray the spot in which the buffaloes have taken refuge.
-
-The great green expanse stretches out before you monotonously, and
-even in the bright sunlight you can see no other sign of the animal
-life of various kinds concealed beneath the sea of rushes waving
-gently in the breeze. Myriads of insects, especially mosquitoes and
-ixodides, attack the invaders; the animals are few that do not fight
-shy of these morasses. They are the province of the elephants, which
-here enjoy complete security; of the hippopotami, whose mighty voice
-often resounds over them by day as by night; of the buffaloes, which
-wallow in the mud and pools of water to escape from their enemies the
-gadflies; and finally of the waterbuck, which are also able to make
-their way through even the deeper regions of the swamp. Wart-hogs
-also--the African equivalent of our own wild boars--contrive to
-penetrate into these regions, so inhospitable to mankind. We shall find
-no other representatives, however, of the big game of Africa. It is
-only in Central Africa and in the west that certain species of antelope
-frequent the swamps. In the daytime the elephant and the buffalo are
-seldom actually to be seen in them, nor does one often catch sight of
-the hippopotami, though they are so numerous and their voices are to be
-heard. As we grope through the borders of the swamp, curlew (_Glarcola
-fusca_, L.) flying hither and thither all around us, we are startled
-ever and anon by a sudden rush of bush and reed buck plunging out from
-their resting-places and speeding away from us for their life. Even
-when quite small antelopes are thus started up by the sound of our
-advance, so violent is their flight that for the moment we imagine that
-we have to deal with some huge and perhaps dangerous beast.
-
-In those spots where large pools, adorned with wonderful
-water-lilies, give a kind of symmetry to the wilderness, we come upon
-such a wealth of bird-life as enables us to form some notion of what
-this may have been in Europe long ago under similar conditions. The
-splendid great white heron (_Herodias alba_, L., and _garzetta_, L.)
-and great flocks of the active little cow-herons (_Bubulcus ibis_,
-L.) make their appearance in company with sacred ibises and form a
-splendid picture in the landscape. Some species of those birds with
-their snow-white feathers stand out picturesquely against the rich
-green vegetation of the swamp. When, startled by our approach, these
-birds take to flight, and the whole air is filled by them and by the
-curlews (_Glareola fusca_, L.) that have hovered over us, keeping
-up continually their soft call, when in every direction we see all
-the swarms of other birds--sea-swallows (_Gelochelidon nilotica_,
-Hasselg.), lapwings, plovers (_Charadriidæ_), Egyptian geese, herons,
-pelicans, crested cranes and storks--the effect upon our eyes and ears
-is almost overpowering.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A MARSHLAND VIEW. AN OSPREY IN AMONG THE REEDS--THE BIRD FOR WHOSE
-PROTECTION QUEEN ALEXANDRA OF ENGLAND HAS LATELY PLEADED.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-SNOW-WHITE HERONS MADE THEIR NESTS IN THE ACACIAS NEAR MY CAMP AND
-SHOWED NO MARKED TIMIDITY.]
-
-[Illustration: A SINGLE PAIR OF CRESTED CRANES WERE OFTEN TO BE SEEN
-NEAR MY CAMP.]
-
-[Illustration: A SNAKE-VULTURE. I SUCCEEDED TWICE ONLY IN SECURING A
-PHOTOGRAPH OF THIS BIRD.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    PREPARING TO SKIN A HIPPOPOTAMUS. THE PRESERVATION OF THE HIDE
-    OF THIS SPECIMEN PROVED UNSUCCESSFUL. IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO
-    PRESERVE HIPPOPOTAMUS-HIDES WITHOUT HUGE QUANTITIES OF ALUM AND
-    SALT, BOTH VERY HARD TO GET IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA. THE SKIN
-    OF THE HEAD IS THINNER AND MORE MANAGEABLE THAN THAT OF THE REST
-    OF THE BODY.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-HIPPOPOTAMI, POPPING THEIR HEADS OR EARS AND SNOUTS UP ABOVE THE
-SURFACE OF THE WATER.]
-
-How mortal lives are intertwined and interwoven! The ox-peckers swarm
-round the buffaloes and protect them from their pests, the ticks and
-other parasites. The small species of marsh-fowl rely upon the warning
-cry of the Egyptian geese or on the sharpness of the herons, ever on
-the alert and signalling always the lightning-like approach of their
-enemy the falcons (_Falco biarmicus_, Tem., and _F. minor_, Bp.). All
-alike have sense enough to steer clear of the crocodiles, which have
-to look to fish chiefly for their nourishment, like almost all the
-frequenters of these marshy regions.
-
-The quantities of fish I have found in every pool in these swamps defy
-description--I am anxious to insist upon this point--and this although
-almost all the countless birds depend on them chiefly for their food.
-Busy beaks and bills ravage every pool and the whole surface of the
-lagoon-like swamp for young fish and fry. The herons and darters
-(_Assingha rufa_, Lacèp. Daud.) manage even to do some successful
-fishing in the deeper waters of the river. _And yet, in spite of all
-these fish-eaters, the river harbours almost a superabundance of
-fish._[2]
-
-Wandering along by the river, we take in all these impressions. For
-experiences of quite another kind, we have only to make for the
-neighbouring velt, now arid again and barren, and thence to ascend the
-steep ridges leading up to the tableland of Nyíka.
-
-Behind us we leave the marshy region of the river and the morass of
-reeds. Before us rises Nyíka, crudely yellow, and the laterite earth
-of the velt glowing red under the blazing sun. The contrast is strong
-between the watery wilderness from which we have emerged and these
-higher ranges of the velt with their strange vegetation. Here we shall
-find many species of animals that we should look for in vain down there
-below, animals that live differently and on scanty food up here, even
-in the dry season. The buffaloes also know where to go for fresh young
-grass even when they are in the marshes, and they reject the ripened
-green grass. The dwellers on the velt are only to be found amidst the
-lush vegetation of the valley at night time, when they make their
-way down to the river-side to drink.[3] It is hard to realise, but they
-find all the food they need on the high velt. When you examine the
-stomachs of wild animals that you have killed, you note with wonder the
-amount of fresh grass and nourishing shrubs they have found to eat in
-what seem the barrenest districts. The natives of these parts show the
-same kind of resourcefulness. The Masai, for instance, succeeds most
-wonderfully in providing for the needs of his herds in regions which
-the European would call a desert. I doubt whether the European could
-ever acquire this gift. Out here on the velt we shall catch sight of
-small herds of waterbuck, never to be seen in the marshes. We shall
-see at midday, under the bare-looking trees, herds of Grant’s gazelles
-too, and the oryx antelope. Herds of gnus, going through with the
-strangest antics as they make off in flight, are another feature in
-the picture, while the fresh tracks of giraffes, eland, and ostriches
-tell of the presence of all these. Wart-hogs, a herd of zebras in the
-distance--like a splash of black--two ostrich hens, and a multitude
-of small game and birds of all descriptions add to the variety. But
-what delights the ornithologist’s eye more than anything is the
-charming sight of a golden yellow bird, now mating. Up it flies into
-the sky from the tree-top, soon to come down again with wings and tail
-outstretched, recalling our own singing birds. You would almost fancy
-it was a canary. Only in this one region of the velt have I come upon
-this exquisite bird (_Tmetothylacus tenellus_, Cal.), nowhere else.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-HEAD OF A HIPPOPOTAMUS (_HIPPOPOTAMUS AFR. ARYSSINICUS_, Less.) WHICH
-I ENCOUNTERED ON DRY LAND AND WHICH NEARLY “DID” FOR ME.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-MY OLD FRIEND “NGURUMAN,” A WANDOROBO CHIEF. HIS BODY IS SEARED BY MANY
-SCARS THAT TELL OF ENCOUNTERS WITH ELEPHANTS AND LIONS.]
-
-
-Thus would I spend day after day, getting to know almost all the wild
-denizens of East Africa, either by seeing them in the flesh or by
-studying their tracks and traces, cherishing more and more the wish
-to be able to achieve some record of all these beautiful phases of
-wild life. I repeat: as a rule you will carry away with you but one or
-another memory from your too brief day’s wandering, but there come days
-when a succession of marvellous pictures seem to be unrolled before
-your gaze, as in an endless panorama. It is the experience of one such
-day that I have tried here to place on record. Professor Moebius is
-right in what he says: “Æsthetic views of animals are based not upon
-knowledge of the physiological causes of their forms, colouring, and
-methods of motion, but upon the impression made upon the observer
-by their various features and outward characteristics as parts of a
-harmonious whole. The more the parts combine to effect this unity and
-harmony, the more beautiful the animal seems to us.” Similarly, a
-landscape seems to me most impressive and harmonious when it retains
-all its original elements. No section of its flora or fauna can be
-removed without disturbing the harmony of the whole.
-
-Within a few years, if this be not actually the case already, all that
-I have here described so fully will no longer be in existence along the
-banks of the Pangani. When I myself first saw these things, often my
-thoughts went back to those distant ages when in the lands now known
-as Germany the same description of wild life was extant in
-the river valleys, when hippopotami made their home in the Rhine and
-Main, and elephants and rhinoceroses still flourished.... What I saw
-there before me in the flesh I learnt to see with my mind’s eye in the
-long-forgotten past. It is the duty of any one whose good fortune it
-has been to witness such scenes of charm and loveliness to endeavour to
-leave some record of them as best he may, and by whatever means he has
-at his command.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-EGYPTIAN GEESE.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A WOUNDED BUFFALO.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    FACSIMILE REPRODUCTION OF ONE OF MY HUNTING RECORD-CARDS,
-    ENUMERATING ALL THE DIFFERENT ANIMALS I SIGHTED ONE DAY (AUGUST
-    21, 1898) IN THE COURSE OF AN EXPEDITION IN THE VICINITY OF THE
-    MASIMANI HILLS, HALF-WAY UP THE PANGANI RIVER. THE DOTTED LINE
-    SHOWS MY ROUTE AND THE NUMBERS INDICATE THE SPOTS AT WHICH I CAME
-    UPON THE VARIOUS SPECIES OF GAME. AT ANOTHER TIME OF THE YEAR
-    THIS DISTRICT WOULD BE ENTIRELY DESTITUTE OF WILD LIFE.]
-
-[Illustration: A SEA-GULL.]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: A MASAI THROWING HIS SPEAR.]
-
-IX
-
-After Elephants with Wandorobo
-
-
-“Big game hunting is a fine education!” With this opinion of Mr. H. A.
-Bryden I am in entire agreement, but I cannot assent to the dictum so
-often cited of some of the most experienced African hunters, to the
-effect that Equatorial East Africa offers the sportsman no adequate
-compensation for all the difficulties and dangers there to be faced.
-
-I cannot subscribe to this view, because to my mind these very
-difficulties and dangers impart to the sport of this region a
-fascination scarcely to be equalled in any other part of the world.
-It is only in tropical Africa that you will find the last splendid
-specimens of an order of wild creation surviving from other eras of
-the earth’s history. It is not to be denied that you must pay a high
-price for the joy of hunting them. That goes without saying in a
-country where your every requisite, great and small, has to be carried
-on men’s shoulders--no other form of transport being available--from
-the moment you set foot within the wilderness. I am not now talking of
-quite short expeditions, but of the bigger enterprises which take the
-traveller into the interior for a period of months. I hold that this
-breaking away from all the resources of civilised life should be one
-of the sportsman’s chief incentives, and one of his chief enjoyments.
-I can, of course, quite understand experienced hunters taking another
-view. Many have had such serious encounters with the big game they have
-shot, and above all such unfortunate experiences of African climates,
-that they may well have had enough of such drawbacks.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A POWERFUL OLD HIPPOPOTAMUS ON HIS WAY TO HIS HAUNT IN THE SWAMP AT
-DAYBREAK. ONE OF MY BEST PHOTOGRAPHS. ]
-
-Their assertions, in any case, tend to make it clear that sport in this
-East African wilderness is no child’s play. In reality, all depends
-upon the character and equipment of the man who goes in for it. The
-apparently difficult game of tennis presents no difficulties to the
-expert tennis-player. With an inferior player it is otherwise. So it is
-in regard to hunting in the tropics. It is obvious that experience in
-sport here at home is of the greatest possible use out there--is, in
-fact, absolutely essential to one’s success. Only those should attempt
-it who are prepared to do everything and cope with all obstacles for
-themselves, who do not need to rely on others, and whose nerves are
-proof against the extraordinary excitements and strains which out there
-are your daily experience.
-
-I myself am conscious of a steadily increasing distaste for
-face-to-face encounters with rhinoceroses, and with elephants still
-more. There are indeed other denizens of the East African jungle
-whose defensive and offensive capabilities it would be no less a
-mistake to under estimate. The most experienced and most authoritative
-Anglo-Saxon sportsmen are, in fact, agreed that, whether it be a
-question of going-after lions or leopards or African buffaloes, sooner
-or later the luck goes against the hunter. Of recent years a large
-number of good shots have lost their lives in Africa. If one of these
-animals once gets at you, you are as good as dead. To be chased by an
-African elephant is as exciting a sensation as a man could wish for.
-The fierceness of his on-rush passes description. He makes for you
-suddenly, unexpectedly. The overpowering proportions of the enraged
-beast--the grotesque aspect of his immense flapping ears, which make
-his huge head look more formidable than ever--the incredible pace at
-which he thunders along--all combine with his shrill trumpeting to
-produce an effect upon the mind of the hunter, now turned quarry, which
-he will never shake himself rid of as long as life lasts. When--as
-happened once to me--it is a case not of one single elephant, but
-of an entire herd giving chase in the open plain (as described in
-_With Flashlight and Rifle_), the reader will have no difficulty in
-understanding that even now I sometimes live the whole situation over
-again in my dreams and that I have more than once awoke from them in a
-frenzy of terror.
-
-Of course, a man becomes hardened in regard to hunting accidents in
-course of time, especially if all his adventures have had fortunate
-issues. When, however, a man has repeatedly escaped destruction by a
-hairs-breadth only, and when incidents of this kind have been
-heaped up one on another within a brief space of time, the effects
-upon the nervous system become so great that even with the utmost
-self-mastery a man ceases to be able to bear them. As I have already
-said, the total number of casualties in the ranks of African sportsmen
-is not inconsiderable.
-
-[Illustration: ORYX ANTELOPE BULL, NOT YET AWARE OF MY APPROACH.]
-
-[Illustration: A HERD OF ORYX ANTELOPES (_ORIX CALLOTIS_, Thos.),
-CALLED BY THE COAST-FOLK “CHIROA.”]
-
-[Illustration: WATERBUCK. THEY SOMETIMES LOOK QUITE BLACK, AS THIS
-PHOTOGRAPH SUGGESTS. IT DEPENDS UPON THE LIGHT.]
-
-[Illustration: HEAD OF A BULL WATERBUCK (_COBUS ELLIPSIPRYMNUS_,
-Ogilb.).]
-
-In Germany, of course, we have time-honoured sports of a dangerous
-nature too, but these are exceptions--for instance, killing the wild
-boar with a spear, and mountain-climbing and stalking.
-
-In order to understand fully the mental condition of the sportsman in
-dangerous circumstances such as I have described, it is necessary to
-realise the way in which he is affected by his loneliness, his complete
-severance from the rest of mankind. There is all the difference in
-the world between the situation of a number of men taking up a post
-of danger side by side, and that of the man who stands by himself,
-either at the call of duty or impelled by a sense of daring. He has to
-struggle with thoughts and fears against which the others are sustained
-by mutual example and encouragement.
-
-But, as I have said, the great fascination of sport in the tropics lies
-precisely in the dangers attached. Therein, too, lies the source of
-that pluck and vigour which the sport-hardened Boers displayed in their
-struggles with the English. The perils they had faced in their pursuit
-of big game had made brave men of them.
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-Now let us set out in company with the most expert hunters of the velt
-on an expedition of a rather special kind--the most dangerous you can
-go in for in this part of the world--an elephant-hunt. In prehistoric
-days the mammoth was hunted with bow and arrow in almost the same
-fashion as the elephant is to-day by certain tribes of natives.
-Taking part in one of their expeditions, one feels it easy to go back
-in imagination to the early eras of mankind. This feeling imparts a
-peculiar fascination to the experience.
-
-After a good deal of trouble I had got into friendly relations with
-some of these nomadic hunters. It was a difficult matter, because they
-fight shy of Europeans and of the natives from the coast, such as my
-bearers and followers generally. I knew, moreover, that our friendship
-might be of short duration, for these distrustful children of the
-velt might disappear at any moment, leaving not a trace behind them.
-However, I had at least succeeded, by promises of rich rewards in the
-shape of iron and brass wire, in winning their goodwill. After many
-days of negotiation they told me that elephants might very likely be
-met with shortly in a certain distant part of the velt. The region in
-question was impracticable for a large caravan. Water is very scarce
-there, rock pools affording only enough for a few men, and only for a
-short time. At this period of the year the animals had either to make
-incredibly long journeys to their drinking-places, or else content
-themselves with the fresh succulent grass sprouting up after the rains,
-and with the moisture in the young leaves of the trees and bushes.
-
-I set out one day in the early morning for this locality with a few of
-my men in company with the Wandorobo. After a long and fatiguing
-march in the heat of the sun, we encamp in the evening at one of the
-watering-places. To-day, to my surprise, there is quite a large supply
-of water, owing to rain last night. The elephants, with their unfailing
-instinct, have discovered the precious liquid. They have not merely
-drunk in the pool, but have also enjoyed a bath; their tracks and the
-colour and condition of the water show that clearly. Therefore we do
-not pitch our camp near the pool, but out in the velt at some distance
-away, so as not to interfere with the elephants in case they should be
-moved to return to the water.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-MY WANDOROBO GUIDES ON THE MARCH, WITH ALL THEIR “HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE”
-ON THEIR BACKS!]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A PARTY OF WANDOROBO HUNTERS COMING TO MY CAMP. I GOT SEVERAL OF THEM
-TO ACT FOR ME AS GUIDES.]
-
-But the wily beasts do not come a second time, and we are obliged to
-await morning to follow their tracks in the hope of luck. The Wandorobo
-on ahead, I and two of my men following, make up the small caravan,
-while some of my other followers remain behind at the watering-place
-in a rough camp. I have provided myself with all essentials for two
-or three days, including a supply of water contained in double-lined
-water-tight sacks. For hour after hour we follow the tracks clearly
-defined upon the still damp surface of the velt. Presently they lead us
-through endless stretches of shrubs and acacia bushes and bow-string
-hemp, then through the dried-up beds of rain-pools now sprouting here
-and there with luxuriant vegetation. Then again we come to stretches of
-scorched grass, featureless save for the footsteps of the elephants. As
-we advance I am enabled to note how the animals feed themselves in this
-desert-like region, from which they never wander any great distance.
-Here, stamping with their mighty feet, they have smashed some young
-tree-trunks and shorn them of their twigs and branches; and there,
-with their trunks and tusks, they have torn the bark off larger trees
-in long strips or wider slices and consumed them. I observe, too, that
-they have torn the long sword-shaped hemp-stalks out of the ground,
-and after chewing them have dropped the fibres gleaming white where
-they lie in the sun. The sap in this plant is clearly food as well as
-drink to them. I see, too, that at certain points the elephants have
-gathered together for a while under an acacia tree, and have broken and
-devoured all its lower branches and twigs. At other places it is clear
-that they have made a longer halt, from the way in which the vegetation
-all around has been reduced to nothing. We go on and on, the mighty
-footsteps keeping us absorbed and excited. We know that the chances
-are all against our overtaking the elephants, but the pleasures of the
-chase are enough to keep up our zest. At any moment, perhaps, we may
-come up with our gigantic fugitives. Perhaps!
-
-How different is the elephant’s case in Africa from what it is in India
-and Ceylon! In India it is almost a sacred animal; in Ceylon it is
-carefully guarded, and there is no uncertainty as to the way in which
-it will be killed. Here in Africa, however, its lot is to be the most
-sought-after big game on the face of the earth; but the hunter has to
-remember that he may be “hoist with his own petard,” for the elephant
-is ready for the fray and knows what awaits him. With these thoughts in
-my mind and the way clearer at every step, the Wandorobo move on and on
-unceasingly in front.
-
-It is astonishing what a small supply of arms and utensils these
-sons of the velt take with them when starting out for journeys over
-Nyíka that may take weeks or months. Round their shoulders they carry
-a soft dressed skin, and, hung obliquely, a strap to which a few
-implements are attached, as well as a leathern pouch containing odds
-and ends. Their bow they hold in one hand, while their quivers, filled
-with poisoned arrows, are also fastened to their shoulders by a strap.
-In addition they carry a sword in a primitive kind of scabbard. Thus
-equipped they are ready to cope with all the dangers and discomforts of
-the velt, and succeed somehow in coming out of them victorious.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A FEAST OF HONEY. A HONEY-FINDER HAD LED US TO A HIVE, AND HERE MY MEN
-MAY BE SEEN REJOICING IN THE RESULTS.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-ACACIA TREE DENUDED BY ELEPHANTS.]
-
-[Illustration: AN ORYX ANTELOPE’S METHODS OF DEFENCE.]
-
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    A DWARF KUDU (_STREPSICEROS IMBERBIS_, Blyth). I HAVE NEVER YET
-    SUCCEEDED IN PHOTOGRAPHING THIS ANIMAL ALIVE AND IN FREEDOM. SO
-    FAR I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO PHOTOGRAPH ONLY SPECIMENS WHICH I HAVE
-    SHOT.]
-
-How thoroughly the velt is known to them--every corner of it! To
-live on the velt for any time you must be adapted by nature to its
-conditions. We Europeans should find it as hard to become acclimatised
-to it as the Wandorobo would to the conditions of civilised life
-in Europe. The one thing they are like us in being unable to forego
-is water--and even that they can do without for longer than we can.
-The most important factor in their life as hunters is their knowledge
-where to get water at the different periods of the year. Their
-intimate acquaintance with the book of the velt is something beyond
-our faculty for reading print. Our experiences in our recent campaigns
-in South-West Africa have served to bring home the wonderful way in
-which the natives decipher and interpret the minutest indications to be
-found in the ground of the velt and know how to shape their course in
-accordance with them.
-
-[Illustration: ZEBRAS.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-GIRAFFE STUDIES (_GIRAFFA SCHILLINGSI_, Mtsch.) SECURED BY
-TELEPHOTO-LENS.]
-
-[Illustration: ZEBRAS (_EQUUS BOHMI_) OUT ON THE OPEN VELT.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-MY MASAI DONKEYS ARRIVING IN CAMP, ESCORTED BY ARMED MEN. BEARERS
-ADVANCING TO MEET THEM AND TO UNBURDEN THEM OF THEIR LOADS.]
-
-This had already been brought home to me in the regions through which
-I had travelled. You must have had the experience yourself to realise
-the degree to which civilised man has unlearnt the use of his eyes and
-ears. Whether it be a question of finding one’s bearings or deciding in
-which direction to go, or of sizing up the elephant-herds from their
-tracks, or of distinguishing the tracks of one kind of antelope from
-those of another, or of detecting some faint trace of blood telling us
-that some animal we are after has been wounded, or of knowing where
-and when we shall come to some water, or of discovering a bee’s nest
-with honey in it--in all such matters the native is as clever as we
-are stupid. We may make some progress in this kind of knowledge and
-capability, but we shall always be a bad second to the native-born
-hunter of the velt.
-
-With such men to act as your guides you get to feel that traversing
-Nyíka is as safe as mountain-climbing under the guidance of skilled
-mountaineers. You get to feel that you cannot lose your way or get
-into difficulties about water. One reflection, however, should never
-be quite absent from your mind--that at any moment these guides of
-yours may abandon you. That misfortune has never happened to me, and
-it is not likely to happen when the natives are properly handled.
-Moreover, your friendship with them can sometimes be strengthened by
-the establishment of bonds of brotherhood. A time-honoured practice of
-this kind, held sacred by the natives, can be of the greatest benefit.
-I am strongly in favour of the observance of these praiseworthy native
-customs, and have always been most ready to go through with the
-ceremonies involved.
-
-I endeavour to win the goodwill of my guides by keeping to the pace
-they set--an easy matter for me. In every other way also I take
-pains to fall in with the ways and habits of the Wandorobo, so as to
-attenuate that feeling of antagonism which my uncivilised friends
-necessarily harbour towards the European. I owe it to this, perhaps,
-that they did their utmost to find the elephant-tracks for me.
-
-For hour after hour we continue our march, in and out, over velt and
-brushwood, coming every few hours to a watering-place, and meeting in
-the hollow of one valley an exceptionally large herd of oryx antelopes.
-Under cover of the brushwood, and favoured by the wind, I succeed in
-getting quite near this herd and thus in studying their movements close
-at hand.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-PEARL-HENS ON AN ACACIA TREE.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A PAIR OF GRANT’S GAZELLES TAKING TO FLIGHT. ]
-
-In the bush, not far from these oryx antelopes, I come unexpectedly
-on a small herd of beautiful dwarf kudus. They take to flight, but
-reappear for a moment in a glade. This kind of sudden glimpse of these
-timid, pretty creatures is a real delight to one. Their great anxious
-eyes gaze inquiringly at the intruder, while their large ears stand
-forward in a way that gives a most curious aspect to their shapely
-heads. The colouring of their bodies accords in a most remarkable
-degree with their environment, and this accentuates the individuality
-of their heads, seen thus by the hunter. Off they scamper again now,
-in a series of extraordinarily long and high jumps, gathering speed as
-they go, and unexpectedly darting now in one direction, now in another.
-It is very exciting work tracking the fugitive kudu, and when it is a
-question of a single specimen you may very well mark it down in the
-end; but according to my own experience it is next to impossible to
-follow up a herd, for one animal after another breaks away from it,
-seeking safety on its own account.
-
-Now we come again to an open grassy stretch of velt. With a sudden
-clatter of hoofs a herd of some thirty zebras some hundred paces off
-take to flight and escape unhurt by us into the security of a distant
-thicket. The older animals and the leaders of the herd keep looking
-backwards anxiously with outstretched necks. Even in the thicket their
-bright colouring makes them discernible at this hour of the day. But
-our attention is distracted now elsewhere. Far away on the horizon
-appear the unique outlines of a herd of giraffes. The timorous animals
-have noted our approach and are already making away--stopping at
-moments to glance at us--into a dense thorn-thicket. The wind favours
-us, so I quickly decide to make a detour to the right and cut them
-off. After a breathless run through the brushwood I succeed in getting
-within a few paces of one of the old members of the herd. This way of
-circumventing a herd of giraffes--my followers helping me by moving
-about all over the place, so as to put them off the scent--has not
-often proved successful with me, because it can only be managed when
-both wind and the formation of the country are in one’s favour.
-
-To-day I have no mind to kill the beautiful long-limbed beast, but it
-is delightful to get into such close touch with him. Now he is off,
-stepping out again, swinging his long tail, his immense neck dipping
-and rising like the mast of a sea-tossed ship, and the rest of the herd
-with him.
-
-Now, just because I have no thought of hunting, every kind of wild
-animal crosses my path! Their number and variety are beyond belief. We
-come upon more zebras, oryx antelopes, hartebeests, Grant’s gazelles,
-impalla antelopes; upon ostriches, guinea-fowl (_Numida reichenowi_ and
-_Acryllium vulturinum_, Hardw.), and francolins. The recent rains seem
-to have conjured them all into existence here as though by magic.
-
-But everything else has to give precedence to the elephant-tracks,
-which now are all mixed up, though leading clearly to the next
-watering-place, towards which we are directing our steps down a way
-trodden quite hard by animals, evidently during the last few
-days. Large numbers of rhinoceroses have trampled down this way to
-the water, but neither they nor the elephants are to be seen in the
-neighbourhood while the sun is up. They are too well acquainted with
-the habits of their enemy man, and they keep at a safe distance out
-on the velt. To-day, therefore, I am to catch no glimpse of either
-elephant or rhinoceros. Wherever I turn my eyes, however, I see other
-animals of all sorts--among others, some more big giraffes. I am not
-to be put off, however, and I decide to follow up the tracks of a
-number of the elephants, evidently males, giving myself up anew to the
-unfailing interest I find in the study of their ways, and confirming
-the observations I had already made as to their finding their chief
-nourishment on the velt in tree-bark and small branches.
-
-[Illustration: GRANT’S GAZELLES.]
-
-[Illustration: A GOOD INSTANCE OF PROTECTIVE COLOURING. A HERD OF
-GRANT’S GAZELLES ALMOST INDISTINGUISHABLE FROM THEIR BACKGROUND OF
-THORN-BUSH.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    A GRANT’S GAZELLE BUCK STANDING OUT CONSPICUOUSLY ON THE DRIED-UP
-    BED OF A LAKE NOW SO INCRUSTATED WITH SALT AS TO LOOK AS THOUGH
-    SNOW-COVERED.]
-
-[Illustration: FOUR GRANT’S GAZELLES.]
-
-Night set in more quickly than we expected while we were pitching camp
-before sunset in a cutting in a thorn-thicket. Spots on which fires
-had recently been lit showed us that native hunters had been there a
-few days before, and my guides said they must have been the Wakamba
-people, keen elephant-hunters, with whom they live at enmity, and of
-whose very deadly poisoned arrows they stand in great dread. Therefore
-we drew close round a very small camp-fire, carefully kept down. The
-glow of a big fire might have brought the Wakamba people down on us
-if they were anywhere in the neighbourhood. It seems that natives
-who are at war often attack each other in the dark. It may easily be
-imagined, then, that the first hours of our “night’s repose” were not
-as blissful as they should have been! After a time, however, our need
-of sleep prevailed, sheer physical fatigue overcame all our anxieties,
-and my Wandorobo slumbered in peace. They had contrived a “charm,” and
-had set up a row of chewed twigs all round to keep off misfortune.
-Unfortunately it is not so easy for a European to believe in the
-efficacy of these precautions! It was interesting to observe that the
-Wandorobo evinced much greater fear of the poisoned arrows of the
-Wakamba than of wild animals. In view of my subsequent experience, I
-myself in such a situation would view the possibility of being attacked
-by elephants with much greater alarm.
-
-As it happened, however, this night passed like many another--if not
-without danger, at least without mishap.
-
-Day dawned. No bird-voices greeted it, for, strange to relate, we
-found nothing but big game in this wooded wilderness, save for
-guinea-fowl (_Numida reichenowi_ and _Acryllium vulturinum_, Hardw.)
-and francolins. The small birds seem to have known that the water would
-soon be exhausted, and that until the advent of the next rainy season
-this was no place for them.
-
-In the grey of early morning we made our way out again into the velt.
-We had to visit the neighbouring watering-places and then to follow
-up some fresh set of elephant-tracks. It turned out that some ten big
-bull-elephants had visited one of the pools, and had left what remained
-of the water a thick yellowish mud. They had rubbed and scoured
-themselves afterwards against a clump of acacia trees. Judging
-from the marks upon these trees some of the elephants in this herd
-must have been more than eleven feet in height. With renewed zest we
-followed up the fresh, distinct tracks through the bush, through all
-their twistings and turnings. Again we came upon all kinds of other
-animals--among others, a herd of giraffes right in our path. But these
-were opportunities for the naturalist only, not for the sportsman who
-was keeping himself for the elephants and would not fire a shot at
-anything else unless in extreme danger. Later, at a moment when we
-believed ourselves to have got quite close to the elephants, I started
-an extraordinarily large land-tortoise--the biggest I have ever seen.
-I could not get hold of it, however--I was too much taken up with
-the hope of reaching the elephants; but after several more hours of
-marching I had to call a halt in order to gather new strength. In
-the end we did not overtake them. They had evidently been seriously
-disquieted either by us or earlier by the Wakamba people. While we were
-pitching our camp in the evening, nearly a day’s journey from our camp
-of the night before, we sighted one after another three herds of elands
-and four rhinoceroses on their way out into the velt to graze. During
-these two days I had come within shot of about ten rhinoceroses while
-on the march, and had caught glimpses of many more in the distance.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    THE HERDS OF GRANT’S GAZELLES ARE SOMETIMES MADE UP ENTIRELY OF
-    MALES, SOMETIMES ENTIRELY OF FEMALES. IN THIS PICTURE WE SEE A
-    NUMBER OF YOUNG DOES IN SEARCH OF THE SCANTY FRESH GRASS ON A
-    PORTION OF THE VELT WHICH NOT LONG BEFORE HAD BEEN BURNT UP.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A SMALL HERD OF GRANT’S GAZELLES. THE KILIMANJARO RANGE IN THE
-BACKGROUND.]
-
-[Illustration: YOUNG MASAI HARTEBEEST. I DID NOT SUCCEED IN MY EFFORTS
-TO BRING BACK A SPECIMEN OF THIS SPECIES.]
-
-The third day’s pursuit of the elephants also proved entirely
-fruitless. We did not even come within sight of a female specimen.
-
-My guides were now of opinion that the animals must be so thoroughly
-alarmed that any further pursuit would be almost certainly in vain, so
-we made our way back as best we could in a zigzag course to my main
-camp, and reached it on the morning of the fourth day.
-
-Most elephant-hunts in Equatorial Africa run on just such lines as
-these and with the same result, yet they are among the finest and most
-interesting experiences that any sportsman or naturalist can hope
-to have. The wealth of natural life that had been given to my eyes
-during those three days was simply overpowering. But if you have once
-succeeded in getting within range of an African elephant, all other
-kinds of wild animals seem small fry to you. You have the same kind
-of feeling that the German sportsman has when after a _Brunft_
-stag--he cares for no other kind of game; he has no mind for anything
-but the stag. But the elephant fever attacks you out in Africa even
-more virulently than the stag fever here at home.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A HERD OF HARTEBEESTS (_BUBALIS COKEI_, Gthr.).]
-
-[Illustration: HARTEBEESTS WITH YOUNG.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-WATERBUCK.]
-
-Yet it is fine to remember one’s ordinary shooting expeditions in the
-tropics. You need some luck, of course--the velt is illimitable and
-the game scattered all over it. But if the rains have just ceased, if
-you have secured good guides, if you yourself are equal to facing all
-the hardships, then indeed it is a wonderful experience. There is no
-doubt about it--you have to be ready for a combination of every kind
-of strain and exertion. You can stand it for a day perhaps, or two or
-three, but you must then take a rest. The man who has gone through with
-this may venture on the experiment of pursuing elephants for several
-days together. He will, I think, bear me out in saying that until you
-have done that also you do not know the limits of endurance and fatigue.
-
-The most glorious hour in the African sportsman’s life is that in
-which he bags a bull-elephant. When he succeeds in bringing the animal
-down at close range in a thicket such as I have so often described,
-his heart beats with delight--it is just a chance in such cases what
-your fate may be. Wide as are the differences in the views taken by
-experienced travellers and by other writers in regard to African sport
-in general, they are all agreed that elephant-hunting is the most
-dangerous task a man can set himself. The hunting of Indian or Ceylon
-elephants--save in the case of a “rogue”--is not to be compared with
-the African sport as I understand it. I do not mean the easy-going,
-pleasure-excursion kind of hunt ordinarily gone in for in the African
-bush, but a one-man expedition, in which the sportsman sets himself
-deliberately to bag his game single-handed. That, indeed, is my idea
-of how one should go after big game in such countries as Africa in all
-circumstances whatever.
-
-Barely as many as a dozen elephants have fallen to my rifle. Some of
-these I killed in order to try and get hold of a young specimen which
-I might bring to Europe in good condition--a desire which I have long
-cherished, but which has not yet been fulfilled. Others I killed so
-that I might present them to our museums.
-
-There were immense numbers of other bull-elephants that I might have
-shot, and that are probably now roaming the velt, but that I had to
-spare because I was more intent upon photographing them. My photographs
-are, however, ample compensation to me. While, too, it is pleasant
-to me to reflect that I have left untouched so many elephants that
-came within easy range, I hope, none the less, some day to bring down
-a specimen adorned with a really splendid pair of tusks. This is an
-aspiration not often realised by African sportsmen, even when they have
-been hunting for half a lifetime. Elephants with tusks weighing nearly
-five hundred pounds, like those in our illustration, are extremely
-rare--even in earlier times they were met with perhaps once in a
-hundred years.
-
-The hunting of an African elephant, I repeat in conclusion, is a source
-of the greatest delight to the sportsman, for even if he does not
-bag his game he is well rewarded for his pains by all the interest and
-excitement of the chase. But no one who has not himself gone through
-with it can estimate what it involves. Even with the most perfected
-equipment in regard to arms, it is often a matter of luck whether you
-kill the animal outright and on the spot.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-THE SKINNING OF AN ELEPHANT. THIS SPECIMEN IS NOW IN THE NATURAL
-HISTORY MUSEUM, BERLIN.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-PREPARING TO SKIN AN ELEPHANT.]
-
-An experience I had in the Berlin Zoological Gardens illustrates this.
-I was called in to dispatch a huge bull-elephant which had to be
-killed, and which had rejected all the forms of poison that had been
-administered to it. In order to give it a quick and painless end I
-selected a newly invented elephant-rifle, calibre 10·75, loaded with 4
-gr. of smokeless powder and a steel-capped bullet. On reflection the
-steel cap seemed to me too dangerous in the circumstances, so I had
-it filed off. I shall allow Professor Schmalz to describe what now
-happened: “The first shot entered the skin between the second and third
-ribs, and then simply went into splinters. It did no serious damage to
-the interior organs, and a stag thus wounded would merely take madly
-to flight. A piece of the cap reached the lung, but only a single
-splinter had penetrated, causing a slight flow of blood. The second
-shot was excellently placed, namely just below the root of the lung.
-It lacerated both the lung arteries and both the bronchial, and thus
-caused instant death.”
-
-The fact that, with such a charge, a bullet fired at a distance of
-less than four yards should have gone into splinters in this way says
-more than one could in a long disquisition, and serves to explain the
-secret of many a mishap in the African wilderness.[4]
-
-[Illustration: A MISSIONARY’S DWELLING NEAR KILIMANJARO IN WHICH I
-STAYED SEVERAL TIMES AS GUEST.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-HEAD OF A BULL-ELEPHANT KILLED BY THE AUTHOR. NOW IN THE NATURAL
-HISTORY MUSEUM, BERLIN.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A FINE SPECIMEN OF A BULL-ELEPHANT KILLED BY THE AUTHOR.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    SOME AFRICAN TROPHIES. 1. SPLINTER FROM AN ELEPHANT-TUSK BROKEN
-    OFF IN A ROCKY REGION. 2. PORTION OF A TREE BRANCH WHICH I FOUND
-    STUCK IN THE JAW OF A CAPTURED LION. 3. PORTION OF A POISONED
-    ARROW WHICH HAD BEEN STICKING IN AN ELEPHANT THAT I WAS TRACKING;
-    ARROW OF THE KIND USED BY THE WAKAMBA HUNTERS. 4. NICKEL BULLET,
-    PUT OUT OF SHAPE, WITH WHICH I BROUGHT DOWN AN ELEPHANT. 5. IRON
-    BULLET USED BY A NATIVE. 6. POISONED DART FOUND STICKING IN THE
-    WING OF A MARABOU.]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: BLACK-HEADED HERONS (_ARDEA MELANOCEPHALA_. VIG.
-Childr.).]
-
-X
-
-Rhinoceros-hunting
-
-
-Many sportsmen of to-day have no idea what numbers of rhinoceroses
-there used to be in Germany in those distant epochs when the
-cave-dweller waged war with his primitive weapons against all the
-mighty animals of old--a war that came in the course of the centuries
-to take the shape of our modern sport.
-
-The visitor to the zoological gardens, who knows nothing of “big
-game,” finds it hard perhaps to think of the great unwieldy “rhino”
-in this capacity. Yet I am continually being asked to tell about
-other experiences of my rhinoceros-hunting. I have given some already
-in _With Flashlight and Rifle_. Let me, then, devote this chapter
-to an account of some expeditions after the two-horned African
-rhinoceros--one of the most interesting, powerful, and dangerous beasts
-still living.
-
-Rhinoceroses used to be set to fight with elephants in the arena in
-Rome in the time of the Emperors. It is interesting to note that,
-according to what I have often heard from natives, the two species
-have a marked antipathy to each other. It is recorded that both Indian
-and African rhinoceroses used to be brought to Europe alive. In our
-own days they are the greatest rarities in the animal market, and must
-be almost worth their weight in gold. Specimens of the three Indian
-varieties are now scarcely to be found, while the huge white rhinoceros
-of South Africa is almost extinct. The two-horned rhinoceros of East
-Africa is the only variety still to be met with in large numbers, and
-this also is on its way swiftly to extermination.
-
-The kind of hunt I am going to tell of belongs to quite a primeval
-type, such as but few modern sportsmen have taken part in. But it will
-be a hunt with modern arms. It must have been a still finer thing to go
-after the great beast, as of old, spear in hand. That is a feeling I
-have always had. There is too little romance, too much mechanism, about
-our equipment. In this respect there is a great change from the kind of
-hunting known to antiquity.
-
-It was strength pitted against strength then. Strength and skill and
-swiftness were what won men the day. Later came a time when mankind
-learnt a lesson from the serpent and improved on it, discharging
-poisoned darts from tightened bow-strings. The slightest wound from
-them brought death. Then there was another step in advance, and the
-hunter brought down his game at even greater ranges with bullets
-of lead and steel. A glance through the telescopic sight affixed to the
-perfected rifle of to-day, a gentle pressure with the finger, and the
-rhinoceros, all unconscious of its enemy in the distance, meets its end.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-RHINOCEROS HEADS.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-RHINOCEROS HEADS.]
-
-But there is at least more danger and more romance for the modern
-hunter in this unequal strife when it takes place in a wilderness
-where bush and brushwood enforce a fight at close quarters. Then, if
-he doesn’t kill his beast outright on the spot, or if he has to deal
-with several at a time, the bravest man’s heart will have good reason
-to beat fast.
-
-Now for our start.
-
-We make our way up the side of a hill with the first rays of the
-tropical sun striking hot already on the earth. The country is wild,
-the ascent is difficult, and we have to dodge now this way, now that,
-to extricate ourselves from the rocky valley into which we have got.
-The vegetation all around us is rank and strange; strong grass up to
-our knees, and dense creepers and thorn-bushes retard our progress.
-Here are the mouldering trunks of giant trees uprooted by the wind,
-there living trees standing strong and unshaken. But as we advance
-we come gradually to a more arid stretch, and green vegetation gives
-place to a rocky region, broken into crevices and chasms. Here we find
-the rock-badger in hundreds. But the leaders have given their warning
-sort of whistle, and they are all off like lightning. It may be quite
-a long time before they reappear from the nooks and crannies to which
-they have fled. Lizards share these localities with them, and seem to
-exchange warnings of coming danger. A francolin flies up in front of us
-with a clatter of wings, reminding one very much of our own beautiful
-heath-cock. The “cliff-springer” that miniature African chamois, one
-of the loveliest of all the denizens of the wilderness, sometimes puts
-in an appearance too. It is a mystery how it manages to dart about
-from ridge to ridge as lightly as an india-rubber ball. If you examine
-through your field-glasses, you discover to your astonishment that they
-do not rest on their dainty hoofs like others of their kind, nor can
-they move about on them in the same fashion. They can only stand on the
-extreme points of them. It looks almost as though nature were trying
-to free a mammal from its bonds to mother earth, when you see the
-“cliff-springer” fly through the air from rock to rock. It would not
-astonish you to find that it had wings. Now here, now there, you hear
-its note of alarm, and then catch sight of it. It would be difficult
-to descry these animals at all, only that there are generally several
-of them together.... Deep-trodden paths of elephants and rhinoceroses
-cut through the wooded wilderness; paths used also by the heavy elands,
-which are fitted for existence alike in the deep valleys and high up
-on the highest mountain. I myself found their tracks at a height of
-over 6,000 feet, and so have all African mountain-climbers worthy of
-the name, from Hans Meyer, the first man to ascend Kilimanjaro, down to
-Uhlig, who, on the occasion of his latest expedition up to the Kibo,
-noted the presence of this giant among antelopes at a height of 15,000
-feet.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-AN ELAND BULL (_OREAS LIVINGSTONI_, Sclat.). I MANAGED TO PREPARE
-THIS ANIMAL’S SKIN SUCCESSFULLY, AND IT MAY NOW BE SEEN IN FLAWLESS
-CONDITION IN THE BERLIN NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM. ]
-
-It is strange to contrast the general disappearance of big game in all
-other parts of the earth with their endless profusion in those regions
-which the European has not yet opened out. I feel that it sounds almost
-incredible when I talk of having sighted hundreds of rhinoceroses with
-my own eyes: incredible to the average man, I mean, not to the student
-of such matters. Not until the mighty animal has been exterminated will
-the facts of its existence--in what numbers it throve, how it lived and
-how it came to die--become known to the public through its biographer.
-We have no time to trouble about the living nowadays.
-
-For weeks I had not hunted a rhinoceros--I had had enough of them. I
-had need of none but very powerful specimens for my collection, and
-these were no more to be met with every day than a really fine roebuck
-in Germany. It is no mean achievement for the German sportsman to bag
-a really valuable roebuck. There are too many sportsmen competing for
-the prize--there must be more than half a million of us in all!
-
-It is the same with really fine specimens of the two-horned
-bull-rhinoceros. It is curious, by the way, to note that, as with so
-many other kinds of wild animals, the cow-rhinoceros is furnished
-with longer and more striking-looking horns than the bull, though the
-latter’s are thicker and stronger, and in this respect more imposing.
-The length of the horns of a full-grown cow-rhinoceros in East
-Africa is sometimes enormous--surpassed only by those of the white
-rhinoceroses of the South, now almost extinct. The British Museum
-contains specimens measuring as much as 53½ inches. I remember well
-the doubts I entertained about a 54-inch horn which I saw on sale in
-Zanzibar ten years ago, and was tempted to buy. Such a growth seemed
-to me then incredible, and several old residents who ought to have
-known something about it fortified me in my belief that the Indian
-dealer had “faked” it somehow, and increased its length artificially.
-It might still be lying in his dimly lit shop instead of forming part
-of my collection, only that on my first expedition into the interior
-I saw for myself other rhinoceroses with horns almost as long, and on
-returning to Zanzibar at once effected its purchase. A second horn of
-equal length, but already half decayed when it was found on the velt,
-came into my possession through the kindness of a friend. I myself
-killed one cow-rhinoceros with very remarkable horns, but not so long
-as these.
-
-There is something peculiarly formidable and menacing about these
-weapons of the rhinoceros. Not that they really make him a more
-dangerous customer for the sportsman to tackle, but they certainly give
-that impression. The thought of being impaled, run through, by that
-ferocious dagger is by no means pleasant.
-
-In something of the same way, a stag with splendid antlers, a great
-maned lion, or a tremendous bull-elephant sends up the sportsman’s zest
-to fever-pitch.
-
-It is astonishing how the colossal beast manages to plunge its way
-through the densest thicket despite the hindrance of its great horns.
-It does so by keeping its head well raised, so that the horn almost
-presses against the back of its massive neck, very much after the
-style of our European stag. But it is a riddle, in both cases, how they
-seem to be impeded so little.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-AN ELAND, JUST BEFORE I GAVE IT A FINISHING SHOT.]
-
-I felt nearly sure that I could count on finding some gamesome old
-rhinoceroses up among the mountains, and my Wandorobo guides kept
-declaring that I should see some extraordinary horns. They were not
-wrong.
-
-I strongly advise any one who contemplates betaking himself to the velt
-after big game to set about the enterprise in the true sporting spirit,
-making of it a really genuine contest between man and beast--a genuine
-duel--not an onslaught of the many upon the one. Many English writers
-support me in this, and they understand the claims of sport in this
-field as well as we Germans do at home. The English have instituted
-clearly defined rules which no sportsman may transgress. In truth, it
-is a lamentable thing to see the _Sonntagsjäger_ importing himself with
-his unaccustomed rifle amid the wild life of Africa!
-
-I shall always look back with satisfaction to the great Schöller
-expedition which I accompanied for some time in 1896. Not one of the
-natives, not one of the soldiers, ventured to shoot a single head of
-game throughout that expedition, even in those regions which until
-then had never been explored by Europeans. The most rigid control was
-exercised over them from start to finish. I have good grounds for
-saying that this spirit has prevailed far too little as a general thing
-in Africa.
-
-I have invariably maintained discipline among my own followers, and
-they have always submitted to it. How difficult it is to deal with
-them, however, may be gathered from the following incident which I find
-recorded in my diary.
-
-On the occasion of my last journey, a black soldier, an Askari, had
-been told off to attach himself for a time to my caravan. Presently
-I had to send him back to the military station at Kilimanjaro with a
-message. A number of my followers accompanied him, partly to fetch
-goods, etc., from my main camp, partly on various other missions that
-had to be attended to before we advanced farther into the velt. The
-Askari was provided, as usual, with a certain number of cartridges.
-When my men returned, a considerable time afterwards, I discovered
-quite accidentally that one of them bore marks on his body of having
-been brutally lashed with a whip. His back was covered with scars
-and open wounds. After the long-suffering manner of his kind, he had
-said nothing to me about it until his condition was revealed to me by
-chance--for, as he was only one of the hundred and fifty attached to
-my expedition, I might never have noticed it. It transpired that not
-long after he had set out the Askari, against orders, had shot big game
-and, among other animals, had bagged a giraffe, whose head--a valuable
-trophy--he had forced my bearers to carry for him to the fort. The
-particular bearer in question had quite rightly refused, whereupon
-the Askari had thrashed him most barbarously with a hippopotamus-hide
-whip--a _sjambok_. I need hardly say that he was suitably punished for
-this when I lodged a formal complaint against him. Had it not been for
-his ill-treatment of my bearer, however, I should never have heard of
-the Askari’s shooting the giraffe, for he had succeeded in terrorising
-all the men into silence.
-
-[Illustration: AN ELAND BULL, THE LEADER OF A HERD WHICH AT THE MOMENT
-OF THIS PHOTOGRAPH WAS IN CONCEALMENT BEHIND THE THORN-BUSHES.]
-
-Now we move onwards, following the rhinoceros-tracks up the
-hill-slopes, where they are clearly marked, and in among the steep
-ridges, until they elude us for a while in the wilderness. Presently we
-perceive not merely a hollowed-out path wrought in the soft stone by
-the tramplings of centuries, but also fresh traces of rhinoceroses that
-must have been left this very day. We are in for a first-rate hunt.
-
-We have reached the higher ranges of the hills and are looking down
-upon the extensive, scantily-wooded slopes. Are we going to bag our
-game to-day?
-
-I could produce an African day-book made up of high hopes and
-disappointments. Not, indeed, that returning empty-handed meant
-ill-humour and disappointment, or that I expected invariable good luck.
-But a day out in the tropics counts for at least a week in Europe, and
-I like to make the most of it. Then, too, I had to reserve my hunting
-for those hours when I could give myself up to it body and soul. How
-often while I have been on the march at the head of heavily laden
-caravans have the most tempting opportunities presented themselves
-to me, only to be resisted--fine chances for the record-breaker and
-irresponsible shot, but merely tantalising to me!
-
-On we go through the wilderness, still upwards. I am the first European
-in these regions, which have much of novelty for my eyes. The great
-lichen-hung trees, the dense jungle, the wide plains, all charm me.
-The heat becomes more and more oppressive, and I and my followers are
-beginning to feel its effects. We are wearying for a halt, but we must
-lose no time, for we have still a long way before us, whether we return
-to our main camp or press onwards to that wooded hollow yonder, four
-hours’ march away, there to spend the night.
-
-A vast panorama has been opening out in front of us. We have reached
-the summit of this first range of hills, and are looking down on
-another deep and extensive valley. My field-glasses enable me to descry
-in the far distance a herd of eland making their way down the hill, and
-two bush-buck grazing hard by a thicket. But these have no interest
-for us to-day: we are in pursuit of bigger game. Suddenly, an hour
-later, my men become excited. “Pharu, bwana!” they whisper to me from
-behind, pointing down towards a group of acacia trees on a plateau a
-few hundred paces away. True enough, there are two rhinoceroses. I
-perceive first one, then the other lumbering along, looking, doubtless,
-for a suitable resting-place. My field-glasses tell me that they are
-a pair, male and female, both furnished with big horns. Now for my
-plan of campaign. I have to make a wide circuit which will take me
-twenty-five minutes, moving over difficult ground.
-
-Arrived at the point in question, I rejoice to see that the animals
-have not got far away from where I first spied them. The wind is
-favourable to me here, and there is little danger at this hour of its
-suddenly veering round. I examine my rifle carefully. It seems all
-right. My men crouch down by my order, and I advance stealthily alone.
-
-I am under a spell now. The rest of the world has vanished from my
-consciousness. I look neither to right nor left. I have no thought for
-anything but my quarry and my gun. What will the beasts do? Will this
-be my last appearance as a hunter of big game? Is the rhinoceros family
-at last to have its revenge?
-
-I have another look at them through my field-glasses. The bull has
-really fine horns; the cow good enough, but nothing special. I decide
-therefore to secure him alone if possible, for his flesh will provide
-food in plenty for my men. On I move, as noiselessly as possible, the
-wind still in my favour. Up on these heights the rhinoceroses miss
-their watchful friends the ox-peckers, so faithful to them elsewhere,
-to put them on their guard.
-
-Often have my followers warned me of the presence of a “Ndege baya”--a
-bird of evil omen. Many of the African tribes seem to share the old
-superstitions of the Romans in regard to birds. Certainly one cannot
-help being impressed by the way in which the ox-peckers suddenly
-whizz through the air whenever one gets within range of buffalo or
-hippopotami.
-
-The unexpected happens. The two huge beasts--how, I cannot tell--have
-become aware of my approach. As though moved by a common impulse, they
-swing round and stand for a moment motionless, as though carved in
-stone, their heads turned towards me.... They are two hundred paces
-away. Now I must show myself. Two things can happen: either they will
-both come for me full pelt, or else they will seek safety in flight.
-An instant later they are thundering down on me in their unwieldy
-fashion, but at an incredible pace. These are moments when your life
-hangs by a thread. Nothing can save you but a well-aimed bullet. This
-time my bullet finds its billet. It penetrates the neck of the leading
-animal--the cow, as always is the case--which, tumbling head foremost,
-just like a hare, drops as though dead. A wonderful sight, lasting but
-a second. The bull pulls up short, hesitates a moment, then swerves
-round, and with a wild snort goes tearing down the hill and out of
-sight. I keep my rifle levelled still at the female rhinoceros, for
-I have known cases when an animal has got up again suddenly, though
-mortally wounded, and done damage. But on this occasion the
-precaution proves needless. The bullet has done its work, and I become
-the possessor of two very fair specimens of rhinoceros horns.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    RHINOCEROSES SHED THEIR HORNS FROM TIME TO TIME AND DEVELOP NEW
-    ONES. THE COW-RHINOCEROS IN THIS PHOTOGRAPH HAD SHED BOTH OF
-    HERS. THE RHINOCEROS WHICH I BROUGHT HOME AND PRESENTED TO THE
-    BERLIN ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS HAS RENEWED HER FRONT HORN SEVERAL
-    TIMES.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A GOOD SPECIMEN.]
-
-It was scarcely to be imagined that in the course of this same day
-I was to get within range of eight more rhinoceroses. It is hard to
-realise what numbers of them there are in these mountainous regions.
-It is a puzzle to me that this fact has not been proclaimed abroad in
-sporting books and become known to everybody. But then, what did we
-know, until a few years ago, of the existence of the okapi in Central
-Africa? How much do we know even now of its numbers? For that matter,
-who can tell us anything definite as to the quantities of walruses in
-the north, or the numbers of yaks in the Thibetan uplands, or of elks
-and of bears in the impenetrable Alaskan woods?
-
-It seems to be the fate of the larger animals to be exterminated by
-traders who do not give away their knowledge of the resources of the
-hunting regions which they exploit. English and American authors, among
-them so high an authority as President Roosevelt, bear me out in this.
-I remember reading as a boy of a traveller, a fur-trader, who happened
-to hear of certain remote northern islands well stocked with the wild
-life he wanted. He kept the information to himself, and made a fortune
-out of the game he bagged; but when he quitted the islands their entire
-fauna had been wiped out. The same thing is now happening in Africa.
-Our only clue to the extent of the slaughtering of elephants now being
-carried on is furnished by the immense quantities of ivory that come
-on the market. So it is, too, with the slaughtering of whales and seals
-for the purposes of commerce. It is with them as with so many men--we
-shall begin to hear of them when they are dead.
-
-But to come back to our rhinoceroses. Not long before sunset I saw
-another animal grazing peacefully on a ridge just below me, apparently
-finding the short grass growing there entirely to his taste. The
-monstrous outlines of the great beast munching away in among the jagged
-rocks stood out most strikingly in the red glow of the setting sun.
-It would have been no good to me to shoot him, for all my thoughts
-were set on finding a satisfactory camping-place for the night. Soon
-afterwards I came suddenly upon two others right in my path--a cow
-with a young one very nearly full grown. In a moment my men, who were
-a little behind, had skedaddled behind a ridge of rocks. I myself
-just managed to spring aside in time to escape the cow, putting a
-great boulder between us. Round she came after me, and I realised as
-never before the degree to which a man is handicapped by his boots in
-attempting thus to dodge an animal. It was a narrow escape, but in this
-case also a well-aimed bullet did the trick. We left the body where it
-lay, intending to come back next morning for the horns. Some minutes
-later, after scurrying downhill for a few hundred paces as quickly as
-we could, so as to avoid being overtaken by the night, we met three
-other rhinoceroses which evidently had not heard my shot ring out.
-They were standing on a grassy knoll in the midst of the valley which
-we had now reached, and did not make off until they saw us. By the
-stream, near which we pitched our camp for the night, we came upon two
-more among some bushes, and yet another rushing through a thicket which
-we had to traverse on our way to the waterside. In the night several
-others passed down the deep-trodden path to the stream, fortunately
-heralding their approach by loud, angry-sounding snorts.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A SNAPSHOT AT TWENTY PACES WITH A HAND-CAMERA, WHICH I HAD TO THROW
-AWAY THE NEXT SECOND, FOR THE “RHINO” MADE FOR ME AND ONLY TURNED ASIDE
-WHEN IT HAD GOT WITHIN THREE PACES OF ME!]
-
-Many such nights have I spent out in the wild; but I would not now go
-through with such experiences very willingly, for I have heard tell
-of too many mishaps to other travellers under such conditions. That
-seasoned Rhenish sportsman Niedieck, for instance, in his interesting
-book _Mit der Büchse in fünf Weltteilen_, gives a striking account of
-a misadventure he met with in the Sudan, near the banks of the Nile.
-In very similar circumstances his camp was attacked by elephants
-during the night; he himself was badly injured, and one of his men
-nearly killed. This danger in regions where rhinoceroses or elephants
-are much hunted is by no means to be underestimated. Rather it should
-be taken to heart. According to the same writer, the elephants in
-Ceylon sometimes “go for” the travellers’ rest-houses erected by the
-Government and destroy them. These things have brought it home to
-me that I was in much greater peril of my life during those night
-encampments of mine on the velt and in primeval forests than I realised
-at the time.
-
-In those parts of East Africa there is a tendency to imagine that a
-zareba is not essential to safety, and that a camp-fire serves all
-right to frighten lions away. It is a remarkable comment on this that
-over a hundred Indians employed on the Uganda Railway should have
-been seized by lions. In other parts of Africa even the natives are
-reluctant to go through the night unprotected by a zareba, because
-they know that lions when short of other prey are apt to attack human
-beings, and neither the hunter nor his camp-fire have any terrors for
-them.
-
-However that may be, the true sportsman and naturalist in the tropics
-will continue to find himself obliged to encamp as best he may _à la
-belle étoile_, trusting to his lucky star to protect him as he sinks
-wearily to sleep.
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-The long caravan is again on the move, like a snake, over the velt.
-Word has come to me that at a distance of a few days’ march there
-has been a fall of rain. As by a miracle grass has sprung up, and
-plant-life is reborn, trees and bushes have put out new leaves, and
-immense numbers of wild animals have congregated in the region.
-Thither we are making our way, over stretches still arid and barren.
-Watering-places are few and far between and hidden away. But we know
-how to find them, and hard by one of them I have to pitch my camp for
-a time.
-
-As we go we see endless herds of animals making for the same
-goal--zebras, gnus, oryx antelopes, hartebeests, Grant’s gazelles,
-impallahs, giraffes, ostriches, as well as numbers of rhinoceroses, all
-drawn as though by magic to the region of the rain.
-
-With my taxidermist Orgeich I march at the head of my caravan. My
-camera has to remain idle, for once again, as so often happens, we get
-no sun. It would be useless to attempt snapshots in such unfavourable
-light.
-
-[Illustration: HOW ONE OF MY MEN SOUGHT SHELTER WHEN THE RHINOCEROS
-CAME FOR US.]
-
-Suddenly, at last, the entire aspect of the velt undergoes a change,
-and we have got into a stretch of country which has had a monopoly
-of the downfall. It is cut off quite perceptibly from the parched
-districts all around, and its fresh green aspect is refreshing and
-soothing to the eye. On and on we march for hour after hour, the wealth
-of animal life increasing as we go. Early this morning I had noted two
-rhinoceroses bowling along over the velt. They had had a bath and were
-gleaming and glistening in the sun.
-
-Now we descry a huge something, motionless upon the velt, looking at
-first like the stump of a massive tree or like a squat ant-hill, but
-turning out on closer investigation to be a rhinoceros. It may seem
-strange that one can make any mistake even at one’s first sight of the
-animal, but every one who has gone after rhinoceroses much must have
-had the same astonishing or alarming experience.
-
-In this case we have to deal with an unusually large specimen--a
-bull. It seems to be asleep. My sporting instincts are aroused. My
-men halt and crouch down upon the ground. I hold a brief colloquy
-with Orgeich. He also gets to the rear. I advance towards the
-rhinoceros over the broken ground between us--the wind favouring me,
-and a few parched-looking bushes serving me as cover. I get nearer
-and nearer--now I am only a hundred and fifty paces off, now only
-a hundred. The great beast makes no stir--it seems in truth to be
-asleep. Now I have got within eighty paces, now sixty. Between me and
-my adversary there is nothing but three-foot-high parched shrubs,
-quite useless as a protection. Ah! now he makes a move. Up goes his
-mighty head, suddenly all attention. My rifle rings out. Spitting
-and snorting, down he comes upon me in the lumbering gallop I have
-learnt to know so well. I fire a second shot, a third, a fourth. It
-is wonderful how quickly one can send off bullet after bullet in such
-moments. Now he is upon me, and I give him a fifth shot, _à bout
-portant_. In imagination I am done for, gashed by his great horn and
-flung into the air. I feel what a fool I was to expose myself in this
-way. A host of such impressions and reflections flash through my brain.
-
-[Illustration: A RHINOCEROS IN THE DRY SEASON, ITS BODY EMACIATED BY
-THE SCANTINESS OF GRAZING-GROUNDS AND DRINKING-PLACES.]
-
-But, as it turns out, my last hour has not yet come. On receipt of my
-fifth bullet my assailant swerves round and lays himself open to my
-sixth just as he decides to take flight. Off he speeds now, never to
-be seen again, though we spend an hour trying to mark him down--a task
-which it is the easier for us to undertake in that he has fled in the
-direction in which we have to continue our march.
-
-Orgeich, in his good-humoured way, remarks drily, “That was a near
-thing.”
-
-Such “near things” may fall to the lot of the African hunter, however
-perfectly he may be equipped.
-
-On another occasion, two rhinoceroses that I had not seen until that
-moment made for me suddenly. In trying to escape I tripped over a
-moss-covered root of a tree, and fell so heavily on my right hip that
-at first I could not get up again. Both the animals rushed close by me,
-Orgeich and my men only succeeding in escaping also behind trees at the
-last moment.
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-To descry one or two rhinoceroses grazing or resting in the midst of
-the bare velt and to stalk them all by yourself, or with a single
-follower to carry a rifle for you, is, I really think, as fascinating
-an experience as any hunter can desire. At the same time it is one of
-the most dangerous forms of modern sport. An English writer remarks
-with truth that even the bravest man cannot always control his senses
-on such occasions--that he is apt to get dazed and giddy. And the
-slightest unsteadiness in his hand may mean his destruction. He has to
-advance a long distance on all fours, or else wriggle along on his
-stomach like a serpent, making the utmost use of whatever cover offers,
-and keeping note all the time of the direction of the wind. He has to
-keep on his guard all the time against poisonous snakes. And he has to
-trust to his hunter’s instinct as to how near he must get to his quarry
-before he fires. I consider that a distance of more than a hundred
-paces is very hazardous--above all, if you want to kill outright. I am
-thinking, of course, of the sportsman who is hunting quite alone.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    PIECE OF VERY HARD STONE FROM THE SIRGOI MOUNTAIN IN BRITISH
-    EAST AFRICA, PRESENTED TO ME BY ALFRED KAISER. RHINOCEROSES WHET
-    THEIR HORNS AGAINST THIS KIND OF STONE, MAKING ITS SURFACE QUITE
-    SMOOTH.]
-
-
-To-day I am to have an unlooked-for experience. A number of eland have
-attracted my attention. I follow them through the long grass, just as
-I did that time in 1896 when the flock of pearl-hens buzzed over me
-and I started the two rhinoceroses which nearly “did for” me.[5] These
-antelopes claim my undivided attention. The country is undulating in
-its formation, and my men are all out of sight. I am quite alone, rifle
-in hand. The animals make off to the left and in amidst the high grass.
-I stand still and watch them. It would be too far to have a shot at
-the leader of the herd, so I merely follow in their tracks, crouching
-down. Now I have to get across a crevice. But as I am negotiating it
-and penetrating the higher grass on the opposite slope, suddenly,
-fifty paces in front of me, I perceive a huge dark object in among the
-reeds--a rhinoceros.
-
-It has not become aware of me yet, nor of the peril awaiting it. It
-sits up, turned right in my direction. Now there is no going either
-forwards or backwards for me. The grass encumbers my legs--the old
-growth (spared by the great fires that sometimes ravage the whole
-velt between two rainy seasons) mingling with the new into an
-inextricable tangle. Such moments are full of excitement. It is quite
-on the cards that a second rhinoceros--perhaps a third--will now turn
-up. Who knows? Moreover, I have absolutely no inducement to bag the
-specimen now before my eyes--its horns are not of much account. I try
-cautiously to retreat, but my feet are entangled and I slip. Instantly
-I jump up again--the rhinoceros has heard the noise of my fall and is
-making a rush for me, spitting and snorting. It won’t be easy to hit
-him effectively, but I fire. As my rifle rings out I hear suddenly
-the singing notes like a bird in the air above, clear and resonant,
-and I seem to note the impact of the bullet. Next instant I see the
-rhinoceros disappearing over the undulating plain.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-RHINOCEROSES OFTEN REMAIN IN THIS SITTING POSTURE FOR QUITE A LONG
-TIME.]
-
-I conclude that the bullet must have struck one of his horns and been
-turned aside, and that it startled the beast and caused him to abandon
-his attack.
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-But there are yet other ways in which you may be surprised by a
-rhinoceros. I had pitched my camp by the Pangani, in a region which at
-the time of Count Telekis’ expedition, some years before, was a swamp.
-Its swampy condition lasts only during the rainy season, but I found
-my camping-place to be very unsatisfactory and unhealthy. I set out
-therefore with a few of my men to find a better position somewhere on
-dryer land, if possible shaded by trees, and at a spot where the river
-was passable--a good deal to ask for in the African bush. For hours we
-pursued our search through “boga” and “pori,” but the marshy ground did
-not even enable us to get down to the river-side. Endless morasses of
-reeds enfolded us, in whose miry depths the foot sinks even in the dry
-weather, in which the sultry heat enervates us, shut in as we are by
-the rank growth that meets above our heads as we grope through it. At
-last we reach some solid earth, and it looks as though here, beneath
-some sycamores, we have found a better camping place. Deep-trodden
-paths lead down to the waterside. We follow them through the brushwood,
-I leading the way, and thus reach the stream. The rush and roar of the
-river resounds in our ears, and we catch the notes, too, of birds.
-Suddenly, right in front of me, the ground seems to quicken into life.
-My first notion is that it must be a gigantic crocodile; but no, it is
-a rhinoceros which has just been bathing, and which now, disturbed,
-is glancing in our direction and about to attack us or take to its
-heels--who can say? Escape seems impossible. Clasping my rifle I
-plunge back into the dense brushwood. But the tough viscous branches
-project me forward again. Now for it. The rhinoceros is “coming for”
-us. We tumble about in all directions. Some seconds later we exchange
-stupefied glances. The animal has fled past us, just grazing us and
-bespattering us with mud, and has disappeared from sight. How small we
-felt at that moment I cannot express! In such moments you experience
-the same kind of sensation as when your horse throws you or you are
-knocked over by a motorcar. (Perhaps this latter simile comes home to
-one best nowadays!) You realise, too, why the native hunters throw off
-all their clothing when they are after big game. On such occasions
-even the lightest covering hampers you, and perhaps endangers your life.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A ROCK-POOL ON KILIMANJARO.]
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-Countless thousands of two-horned rhinoceroses are still to the good in
-East Africa. Yes, countless thousands! Captain Schlobach tells us that
-he would encounter as many as thirty in one day in Karragwe in 1903
-and 1904. Countless also are the numbers of horns which are secured
-annually for sale on the coast. But how much longer will this state of
-things continue? And the specimens of the white rhinoceros of South
-Africa which adorn the museum in Cape Town and the private museum of
-Mr. W. Rothschild (and which we owe to Coryndon and Varndell) are not
-more valuable than the specimens also to be found in the museums of the
-“black” rhinoceroses still extant in East Africa.
-
-This view of the matter will perhaps receive attention fifty or a
-hundred years hence.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: MASAI KILLING A HYENA WITH THEIR CLUBS.]
-
-XI
-
-The Capturing of a Lion
-
-
-Simba Station--Lion Station--is the name of a place on the Uganda
-Railway, which connects the Indian Ocean with the Victoria-Nyanza. It
-is situated near Nairobi, and the sound of its name recalls vividly to
-my memory January 25, 1897, the great day when I came face to face with
-three lions.
-
-At that time no iron road led to the interior of the country; there
-were neither railway lines nor telegraph wires to vibrate to the sound
-of the voice of the monarch of the wilderness. But the white man was
-soon to bar his path by day and night along the whole length of the
-great railroad from lake to ocean.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-IN A BETTER TEMPER.]
-
-[Illustration: A LION CUB IN A BAD TEMPER.]
-
-“Lion Station” deserves its name, for in the vicinity of this spot over
-a hundred Indian workmen have been seized by lions. To me this was no
-surprise, for years before I had visited the region, and had done
-full justice to its wilderness in my description of it. Some stir was
-caused when a lion killed a European in one of the sleeping-cars at
-night-time. In company with two others, the unfortunate man was passing
-the night in a saloon carriage which had been shunted on to a siding.
-One of the Europeans slept on the floor; as a precaution against
-mosquitoes he had covered himself with a cloth. Another was lying on a
-raised bunk. The lion seized the third man, who was sleeping near the
-two others on a camp-bed, killed him, and carried him away. One of the
-survivors, Herr Hübner--whose hunting-box, “Kibwezi,” in British East
-Africa, has given many sportsmen an opportunity of becoming acquainted
-with African game--gave me the following account of the incident: “The
-situation was a critical one. The door through which the beast had
-entered the compartment was rolled back. I saw the creature at about
-an arm’s length from me, standing with its fore-paws on the bed of my
-sleeping friend. Then a sudden snatch, followed by a sharp cry, told
-me that all was over. The lion’s right paw had fallen on my friend’s
-left temple, and its teeth were buried deep in his left breast near the
-armpit. For the next two minutes a deathly stillness reigned. Then the
-lion pulled the body from off the bed and laid it on the ground.” The
-lion disappeared with the corpse into the darkness of the night. It was
-killed shortly after, as might be expected.
-
-Such scenes were probably more frequent in earlier days, when, in
-the Orange Free State, a single hunter would kill five-and-twenty
-lions. This was so even down to the year 1863, when impallah antelopes
-(_Æpyceros suara_) had already become very rare in Bechuanaland, and in
-Natal a keen control had to be instituted over the use of arms. Times
-have changed. In the year 1899 much sensation was aroused by the fact
-that a lion was killed near Johannesburg, and so far back as 1883 there
-was quite a to-do over a lion that was seen and killed at Uppington, on
-the Orange River. To Oswald and Vardon, well-known English hunters, as
-well as to Moffat in Bechuanaland, the encountering of as many as nine
-troops of lions in a day was quite an ordinary experience, and I still
-found lions in surprising numbers in 1896 in German and British East
-Africa. The practical records of the Anglo-German Boundary Commission
-in East Africa, the observations made lately by Duke Adolf Friedrich of
-Mecklenburg, and the evidence of many other trustworthy witnesses, have
-confirmed these facts.
-
-Although I do not think that lions, at least in districts where game is
-very plentiful, are so dangerous as some would make out, yet I quite
-agree with the statement made by H. A. Bryden that a lion-hunt made on
-foot must be reckoned as one of the most dangerous sports there are.
-The experience of an authority like Selous, who was seized by lions
-during the night in the jungle, proves this.
-
-In the region in which I had such success lion-hunting in 1897, there
-were many mishaps. My friend the commandant of Port Smith in Kiku
-uland, who was badly mauled by lions, has since had more than one
-fellow-sufferer in this respect.
-
-Captain Chauncy Hugh-Stegand, who, like Mr. Hall and so many other
-hunters of other nationalities, had been several times injured by
-rhinoceroses, was once within an ace of being killed by a lion which
-he encountered by night, and which he shot at and pursued. Severely
-wounded, and cured almost by a miracle, he had to return to England to
-regain his health. “Such are the casualties of sportsmen in Central and
-East Africa” is the dry comment of Sir Harry Johnston in his preface to
-the English edition of my book _With Flashlight and Rifle_.
-
-When I read about such adventures I call to mind vividly my own. I live
-through them all again, and the magic of these experiences reawakes in
-me.
-
-To-day I would fain give the reader some account of the capturing of
-lions. Not of captures made by means of a net, such as skilful and
-brave men used in olden days to throw over the king of beasts, thus
-disabling him and putting him in their power, but of a capture that was
-not without its many intense and exciting moments.
-
-Proud Rome saw as many as five hundred lions die in the arena in one
-day. That was in the time of Pompey. Nearly two thousand years have
-passed since then, and one may safely affirm that in the intervening
-centuries very few lions have been brought to Europe that were caught
-when full grown in the desert. The many lions that are brought over
-to our continent are caught when young, and then reared, despite the
-credence given sometimes to statements to the contrary.
-
-It goes without saying that lions which have matured in confinement
-cannot compare with the lions that have come to their full development
-in the wilderness. Full-grown tigers and leopards are still nowadays
-in some cases ensnared alive, and we can see them in our zoological
-gardens in all their native wildness, and without any artificial
-breeding, marked with the unmistakable stamp common to all wild
-animals. It is an established fact that all captive monkeys show
-symptoms after a certain time of rachitis. This is also the case
-frequently with large felines. Lions brought up in captivity, however,
-have far finer manes than wild ones.
-
-Of course a certain number of the lions used in the arena-fights in
-Rome were probably reared in the Roman provinces by some potentate. But
-without doubt a large number were caught when fully grown by means of
-nets, pitfalls, and other devices of which we have no precise details.
-
-It seemed to me worth while to make a trial of the means which had once
-been so successful. As I have already pointed out, there is a great
-difference between a man who scours the wilderness solely as a hunter,
-and one who makes practical investigations into the life of the animal
-world. The sportsman may possibly sneer at the use of pitfalls. He
-has no mind for anything but an exciting encounter with the lion, an
-encounter which, thanks to modern means of warfare, is much easier for
-the man than formerly.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    ANOTHER OF MY HUNTING CARDS. THE RECORD OF MY LION-HUNT OF THE
-    25TH JANUARY, 1897, ON THE ATHI PLAINS, WHEN I KILLED TWO LIONS
-    AND A LIONESS (“LÖWE”=LION; LÖWIN=LIONESS).]
-
-However, I have no wish whatever to lay down the law on this question
-of the relative amount of danger involved in the shooting or the
-trapping of lions. In many parts of Africa lion-hunting is a matter
-of luck, above all where horses cannot live owing to the tsetse-fly,
-and where dogs cannot be employed in large numbers (as used to be the
-practice in South Africa) to mark down the lions until the hunter can
-come. For example, we have it on good authority that the members of an
-Anglo-Abyssinian Border Commission, aided by a pack of dogs, were able
-to kill about twenty lions in the course of a year. But on entering
-the region of Lake Rudolf all the dogs fall victims to the tsetse-fly.
-Hunting with a pack of dogs is very successful. Dogs were used by the
-three brothers Chudiakow, who, some nine years ago, near Nikolsk on
-the Amur, in Manchuria, killed nearly forty Siberian tigers in one
-winter[6]; whilst a hunting party near Vladivostock killed in one month
-one hundred and twenty-five wild boars and seven tigers. Tigers are
-so plentiful near Mount Ararat that a military guard of three men is
-necessary during the night-watch to ward off these beasts of prey.[7]
-
-My extraordinary luck on January 25, 1897, when I killed three
-full-grown lions, fine big specimens, was of course a source of much
-satisfaction to me. The little sketch-map of the day’s hunt which
-accompanies this chapter shows the route I took on that memorable
-occasion, and gives a good idea of the way in which I am accustomed to
-keep a record of such things in my diary. I must add that my adventures
-and narrow escapes while trying to secure lions have been of a kind
-such as would be to the taste only of those most greedy of excitement.
-
-In 1897 I had already observed that the lion was to be found in
-great troops in thinly populated neighbourhoods, where he was at no
-loss for prey and where he had not much to fear from man. As many
-as thirty lions have been found together, and I myself have seen a
-troop of fourteen with my own eyes. Other sportsmen have seen still
-larger troops in East Africa. Quite recently Duke Adolf Friedrich of
-Mecklenburg, who, on the occasion of his second African trip, made some
-interesting observations in regard to lions, has borne witness to the
-existence of very large troops. During the period in which I devoted
-myself entirely to making photographic studies of wild life, and
-consequently left undisturbed all the different species of game which
-swarmed around my camp, I was sometimes surrounded for days, weeks
-even, by great numbers of them, sometimes to an alarming extent. I have
-already described how one night an old lion brushed close by my tent to
-drink at the brook near which we were encamping, although it was just
-as easy for him to drink from the same stream at any point for miles
-to either side of us. On another occasion, as could be seen from the
-tracks, lions approached our camp until within a few yards of it. When
-I was photographing the lions falling upon the heifers and donkeys, as
-described in _With Flashlight and Rifle_, I must have been, judging
-by the tracks, surrounded by about thirty. I trapped a number of them,
-either for our various museums, where specimens in various stages of
-development and age are much needed, or to protect the natives who were
-menaced by lions, or whose relatives had perhaps been seized by them.
-
-[Illustration: AT BAY.]
-
-It is the more necessary to have recourse to traps in that one may
-spend years hunting in Equatorial East Africa without getting a single
-chance of firing a shot at a lion. The hunt has to take place at night,
-for the lion leads a nocturnal life, and makes off into inaccessible
-thickets by day.
-
-But what I was most anxious to do was to secure a specimen or two that
-I could bring alive to Europe. To do this, I required the lightest
-possible and most portable iron cages, which should yet be strong
-enough to resist every effort of the imprisoned animals to get free.
-This problem was solved for me as well as it could be by Professor
-Heck, the Director of the Berlin Zoological Gardens. Yet even he
-declared it to be impossible to make such cages under 330 lbs. in
-weight. For the transport of one such cage the services of six bearers
-would be necessary. I arranged for several such cages to be sent
-oversea to Tanga, and took them thence into the interior. Thus I had
-the assurance of keeping my captives in security, but first I had to
-get hold of them without hurting them. By means of a modified form
-of iron traps I was able to manage this eventually. Those who are
-not acquainted with the difficulties of transport in countries where
-everything has to be borne on men’s shoulders will hardly be able to
-realise the straits to which one may be put. Thus I was much hampered,
-when carrying back my first lion (which was unharmed save for a few
-skin scratches), by a lack of bearers owing to famine and other causes.
-
-[Illustration: STUDIES OF A TRAPPED LION AT CLOSE QUARTERS.]
-
-I had found the tracks of a lioness with three quite little cubs. I
-followed them for an hour over the velt--they then got lost in the
-thick bush. As I had already observed the tracks of this little band
-for several days, I naturally concluded that the old lioness was making
-a stay in the neighbourhood. So I decided, as one of my heifers was
-ill from the tsetse sickness and bound to die, to pitch my tent in the
-neighbourhood and to bait a trap with the sick animal.
-
-I found water at about an hour and a half’s distance from the spot
-where I had observed the lion’s tracks. I was thus obliged to encamp
-at this distance away. Later on in the evening, after much labour, I
-succeeded in setting a trap in such a way that I had every reason to
-hope for good results.
-
-In the early hours of the following morning I started out, full of
-hope, to visit my trap. Already in the distance I could see that my
-heifer was still alive, and I immediately concluded that the lions had
-sought the open. But it was not so, for to my surprise I presently
-found fresh tracks of the old lioness and her cubs. Evidently she had
-visited the trap, but had returned into the bush without taking any
-notice of the easy prey. The lie of the land allowed me to read the
-lion’s tracks imprinted into the ground as if in a book. They told
-me that the cubs had at one point suddenly darted to one side, their
-curiosity excited by a land-tortoise whose back was now reflecting the
-rays of the sun, and which in the moonlight must have attracted their
-attention. They had evidently amused themselves for a while with this
-plaything, for the hard surface of the tortoise’s shell was marked with
-their claws. Then they had returned to their mother. I concluded that
-the old lioness was not hungry and had no more lust for prey--another
-confirmation of the fact that lions, when sated, are not destructive.
-This new proof seemed to me to be worth all the trouble I had taken.
-
-The two following nights, to my disappointment, the lions approached my
-heifer again without molesting it.
-
-This was the more annoying because I had hoped by capturing the old
-lioness to obtain possession of all the young cubs as well.
-
-In this case, as in many others, the behaviour of the heifer was a
-matter of great interest. As already remarked, in most cases I made use
-of sick cows mortally afflicted by the tsetse-fly. In many districts in
-German East Africa the tsetse-fly, which causes the dreadful sleeping
-sickness in man, also makes it impossible to keep cattle except under
-quite special conditions. This heifer, then, was already doomed to
-a painful death through the tsetse illness, and the fate I provided
-for it was more merciful, for the lion kills its prey by one single
-powerful bite. I observed, moreover, that the bound animal took its
-food quite placidly and showed no signs of unrest so long as the lion
-came up to her peaceably, as in this case. This accorded entirely
-with my frequent observations of the behaviour of animals towards
-lions on the open velt. Antelopes out on the velt apparently take
-very little notice of lions, though they hold themselves at a
-respectful distance from them.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    THIS LION, AN OLD ANIMAL WITH A FINE MANE, HAD DRAGGED AWAY THE
-    IRON TRAP SOME DISTANCE. HE MADE FOR ME THE MOMENT I HAD TAKEN
-    THIS PHOTOGRAPH AT NEAR RANGE, BUT THE TRAP IMPEDED HIS MOVEMENTS
-    AND A WELL-PLACED BULLET PUT AN END TO HIM.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-CARRYING IN TRIUMPH TO MY CAMP A LION WHICH I HOPED TO BRING BACK WITH
-ME TO EUROPE.]
-
-In spite of my want of success, I decided to try my luck once more,
-though the surroundings of my camp were not very alluring and game was
-very scarce with the exception of a herd of ostriches, which for hours
-together haunted the vicinity. I hoped this time the lioness would be
-bagged. But no, I never came across her or her young again.
-
-Instead, on the fourth morning, I found a good maned specimen--an old
-male--at my mercy. Loud roars announced the fact of his capture to me
-from afar. The first thing was to discover whether he was firmly held
-by the iron, and also whether he was unhurt. I assured myself of both
-these points after some time, with great trouble and difficulty, and,
-needless to add, not without considerable danger. I leave the reader to
-imagine for himself the state of mind in which one approaches the King
-of Beasts in such circumstances. I can vouch for it that one does so
-with a certain amount of respect for His Majesty.
-
-The roaring of an enraged lion, once heard, is never to be forgotten.
-It is kept up by my captive without intermission, a dull heavy rumble
-suddenly swelling to a tremendous volume of sound. The expression
-of its face and head, too, show fierce anger and threaten danger.
-The terrible jaws now scrunch the branches within reach, now open
-menacingly.
-
-It was now necessary to free the lion from the trap and to bring it
-into camp. It would take a week to get my cage, but meanwhile I
-decided to fasten the animal by means of a strong chain and with a
-triple yoke specially made for such a purpose in Europe.
-
-But even the bravest of my men absolutely refused to obey my command.
-It needed the greatest persistence to persuade some of them, at last,
-to lend a helping hand to me and my assistant Orgeich. As usual they
-required the stimulus of a good example. After some time I had, as can
-be seen on pages 485 and 499, set up my photographic apparatus right in
-front of the lion so as to take several photos of him at the distance
-of a few paces.
-
-[Illustration: A CAPTURED LIONESS, SNAPSHOTTED AT THE VERY MOMENT OF
-BEING TRAPPED.]
-
-Then we cut a few saplings about as thick as one’s arm, and with these
-we tried to beat down the lion so as to secure him. At first this
-did not succeed at all. I then had recourse to strong cord, which I
-made into a lasso. It was wonderful, when I caught the head of the
-prisoner in the noose, to see him grip it with his teeth and to watch
-the thick rope fall to pieces as if cut with a pair of scissors after
-a few quick, angry bites. During this trial I made a false step on the
-smooth, grassy ground, so well known to African explorers, and was
-within a hair’s breadth of falling into the clutches of the raging
-beast had not my good taxidermist happily dragged me back. After
-various further efforts, during which my people were constantly taking
-fright, I at length succeeded in fastening the head as well as the paws
-of the beast. With the help of the branches the body was laid prostrate
-on the ground, a gag was inserted between the teeth, the prisoner was
-released from the trap and, fastened to a tree-trunk, was carried into
-camp.
-
-[Illustration: A TRAPPED LION. I HEARD HIM ROARING AT A DISTANCE OF A
-MILE AND A HALF.]
-
-But what takes only a few words to describe involved hours of work.
-It was a wonderful burden, and one not to be seen every day! In my
-previous book I have already described how we carried a half-grown lion
-in a similar manner, and I have given an illustration of the scene.
-Unfortunately some of my best photographs, showing my bearers carrying
-this full-grown lion, were lost while crossing a river.
-
-I was full of delight at the thought of my captive as he would appear
-in my encampment. But to my great chagrin the lion died in it quite
-suddenly, evidently from heart failure. We could find no trace of any
-wound.
-
-There was something really moving at this issue to the struggle, in the
-thought that I, using wile against strength, should have overpowered
-and captured this noble beast only to break his heart!
-
-This failure made me fear that I should never succeed in capturing
-a lion by such methods. It seemed almost better to use a large
-grating-trap in which it could be kept for several days and gradually
-accustomed to the loss of its freedom. But this meant an expensive
-apparatus which was quite beyond the funds of a private individual with
-narrow means like myself. My efforts to capture lions by means of pits
-dug by the natives were quite unsuccessful, because the lions always
-found a way out.
-
-A younger male lion which was entrapped lived for nearly a month
-chained up in my camp. This one had hurt its paw when captured, and in
-spite of every care a bad sore gradually festered. It wounded one of
-my people very badly by ripping open a vein in his arm when he went to
-feed it.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPH OF A LION. THE ANIMAL HAD MOVED SO SWIFTLY THAT
-THE APPARATUS WAS NOT QUITE IN TIME TO TAKE IN ITS WHOLE BODY.]
-
-Thus terminated my efforts to bring an old lion to Europe.
-
-Much that is easy in appearance is troublesome in reality. Even when
-the animal is overcome, the transportation of it to the coast is
-accompanied by almost insuperable difficulties. It means something
-to carry beast and cage, a burden amounting to something like eight
-hundred pounds, right through the wilderness by means of bearers.
-Even with the help of the Uganda Railway it has not been possible to
-bring home a full-grown lion. I have repeatedly caught lions for this
-purpose, but have always experienced ultimate failure.
-
-Sometimes the animals would not return to the place where I had
-tracked or sighted them, or would steer clear of the decoy. One often
-meets with this experience in India with tigers, which are decoyed
-in much the same way, and then shot from a raised stand. Interesting
-information about the behaviour of tigers in such cases may be found
-in the publications of English hunters, as well as in the very
-interesting book on tropical sport by P. Niedieck, a German hunter of
-vast experience. I might perhaps have succeeded on subsequent occasions
-in transporting old lions, but I never had the strong cages at hand.
-Now perhaps they are rusted and rotted, as well as the other implements
-which I hid or buried on the velt, not having bearers enough to carry
-them, and hoping to find them again later.
-
-I had a most interesting adventure, once, with a lion on the right bank
-of the Rufu River.
-
-For several nights the continuous roaring of a lion had been heard in
-the immediate vicinity of my camp. In spite of all my attempts to get
-a sight of the beast by day I could not even find the slightest trace
-of it. Moreover, the vegetation in the neighbourhood of the river was
-not at all suitable for a lion-hunt. I decided to try my luck with a
-trap. A very decrepit old donkey was used as a bait, and killed by the
-lion the very first night. But to my disappointment the powerful beast
-of prey had evidently killed the ass with one blow, and with incredible
-strength had succeeded in dragging it off into the thicket without as
-much as touching the trap. Very early the next morning I found the
-tracks, which were clearly imprinted on the ground. Breathlessly I
-followed up the trail step by step in the midst of thick growth which
-only allowed me to see a few paces around me. I crept noiselessly
-forward, followed by my gun-bearer, knowing that in all probability I
-should come upon the lion.
-
-The trail turned sharply to the left through some thick bushes. Now we
-came to a spot where the thief had evidently rested with his spoil;
-then the tracks led sharply to the right and went straight forward
-without a pause.
-
-We had been creeping forward on the sunlit sand like stealthy cats,
-with every nerve and muscle taut, my people close behind me, I with my
-rifle raised and ready to fire--when, suddenly, with a weird sort of
-growl it leapt up right in front of us and was over the hard sand and
-away. It is astonishing how the stampede of a lion reverberates even
-in the far distance!
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN AT A DISTANCE OF ABOUT FIVE PACES OF A LION
-    WHICH I CAPTURED ALIVE AND BROUGHT BACK TO CAMP--A SPECIMEN OF
-    THE MANELESS LIONS OF THE MASAI VELT. SOME OF THE VERY OLD LIONS
-    DEVELOP MANES EVEN IN THIS REGION, BUT NEVER TO THE EXTENT USUAL
-    WITH LIONS IN CAPTIVITY, OR WITH THE ALMOST EXTINCT SPECIES OF
-    THE ATLAS COUNTRY OR OF SOUTH AFRICA.]
-
-[Illustration: MY PLUCKY TAXIDERMIST MANAGED TO GET THIS CAPTURED HYENA
-UNHARMED INTO CAMP, PROTECTING HIMSELF WITH A BIG CUDGEL.]
-
-A few steps further I came upon the remains of the ass. The lion had
-gained the open when I got out of the brushwood. It was useless to
-follow the tracks, for they led only to stony ground, where they would
-be lost. Discouraged, I gave up the pursuit for the time, but only to
-return a few hours later. Approaching very cautiously to the place
-where I had left the remains of the donkey, we found they were no
-longer there. The lion had fetched them away. We followed again, but to
-my unspeakable disappointment with the same result as in the morning. I
-managed this time, however, to get near the lion through the brushwood,
-but he immediately took to flight again--when only a few yards from
-me, though hidden by bushes. Perhaps he is still at large in this same
-locality!
-
-Lions--generally several of them together--killed my decoys on several
-occasions without themselves getting caught. I once surprised a lion
-and two lionesses at such a meal in the Njiri marshes, in June 1903.
-Unfortunately the animals became aware of my approach, and now began
-just such a chase as I had already successfully undertaken on January
-25, 1897.[8]
-
-I was able by degrees to gain on the satiated animals. A wonderful
-memory that! Clear morning light, a sharp breeze from over the swamps,
-the yellowish velt with its whitish incrustation of salt--a few bushes
-and groups of trees--and ever before me the lions, beating their
-reluctant retreat, now clearly visible, now almost out of sight.
-
-I try a shot. But they are too far--it is no use. Puffing and panting,
-I feel my face glow and my heart beat with my exertions. At length one
-lioness stops and glances in my direction. I shoot, and imagine I have
-missed her. All three rapidly disappear in a morass near at hand. All
-my efforts seem to have been in vain.... Eight days later, however, I
-bag the lioness, and find that my ball has struck her right through the
-thigh.
-
-It may happen that a lion caught in a trap gets off with the iron
-attached to him, and covers vast stretches of country. The pursuer has
-then an exciting time of it. If the animal passes through a fairly open
-district the issue is probably successful. But I have sometimes been
-obliged to wade through a morass of reeds for hours at a stretch.
-The hunter should remember that the irons may have gripped the lion’s
-paw in such a way that he may be able to shake them off with a powerful
-effort. Then the tables may easily be turned, and the lion may clasp
-the hunter, never to let him go again.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-CARRYING A LIVE HYENA BACK TO CAMP.]
-
-[Illustration: MY HYENA, THE ONE I AFTERWARDS BROUGHT TO EUROPE AND
-PRESENTED TO THE BERLIN ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. IT WAS CHAINED UP IN CAMP.]
-
-On another occasion I caught two full-grown lions in one night. They
-had roamed about quite near my camp night after night. They had
-frightened my people, and had been seen by the night sentinels; but in
-the daytime no one had been able to catch a glimpse of them. At last
-one night a sick ass, that had been placed as a bait, was torn away.
-The trail of the heavy irons led, after much turning and twisting, to
-a reedy swamp. Here it was impossible to follow the tracks further.
-Several hours passed before I succeeded finally in finding first one
-lion and then the other. To kill them was no easy matter. I could hear
-the clanking of the chains where they were moving about, but I must
-see them before I could take effective aim. Meanwhile one of the lions
-was making frantic efforts to free himself. Supposing the irons were
-to give way! But these efforts were followed by moments of quiet and
-watching. How the beasts growled!
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-I cannot agree with those who condemn indiscriminately the trapping of
-lions. Of course, it must be done for a good purpose. I should not have
-been able to present the Imperial Natural History Museum in Berlin with
-such beautiful and typical lions’ skins had I not had recourse to these
-traps.
-
-A lion story with a droll ending came to me from Bagamo o. There a lion
-had made itself very obnoxious, and some Europeans determined to trap
-it. The trap was soon set, and a young lion fell into it. Several men
-armed to the teeth approached the place, to put an end to the captive
-with powder and shot. I cannot now exactly remember what happened
-next, but on the attempt of the lion to free itself from the trap the
-riflemen took to their heels and plunged into a pond. According to one
-version, the lion turned out afterwards to be only a hyena!
-
-At one time there was a perfect plague of lions near the coast
-towns--Mikindani, for instance. Hungry lions attacked the townsfolk
-on many occasions, and even poked their heads inside the doors of the
-dwellings.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    MASAI MAKING GAME OF A HYENA WHICH HAD ATTACKED THEIR KRAAL AND
-    WHICH I HAD TRAPPED AT THEIR REQUEST. THEY KILLED IT AT LAST WITH
-    A SINGLE SPEAR-STAB THROUGH THE HEART.]
-
-The extermination of wild life has been almost as great a disaster
-to the lions as to the bushmen of South Africa. Extermination awaits
-bushman and lion in their turn--not through hunger alone.
-
-I was more fortunate in my attempt to get a fine example of the striped
-hyena (_Hyena schillingsi_, Mtsch.), which I had previously discovered,
-and in bringing it to Germany, where I presented it to the Berlin
-Zoological Gardens. On page 501 is to be seen a picture of one of this
-species caught in a trap. Orgeich, my plucky assistant, had armed
-himself with a big cudgel, for use in the case of the beast attacking
-him, but never lost his equanimity, and smoked his indispensable and
-inseparable pipe the whole time! Another illustration is of a hyena
-which was confined in the camp. This fine specimen, an old female, was
-very difficult to take to the coast. Something like forty bearers were
-needed to transport the heavy iron apparatus with its inmate as far as
-Tanga. This representative of its species was one of the first brought
-alive to Europe, and lived for several years in the Berlin Zoological
-Gardens.
-
-It is less troublesome to obtain possession of smaller beasts of prey.
-Thus I kept three jackals (_Thos. schmidti_, Noack) in my camp until
-they became quite reconciled to their fate. It is very interesting to
-study the various characteristics of animals at such times. Some adapt
-themselves very easily to their altered circumstances; others of the
-same species do so only after a long struggle. The study of animal
-character can be carried on very well under the favourable conditions
-of camp life in the wild.
-
-Although grown jackals may be fairly easily brought over to Europe, we
-had great difficulty with members of the more noble feline race, and
-above all with the King of Beasts himself. I learnt by experience that
-lynxes and wild cats were only to be tamed with great difficulty, and
-I once lost a captive lynx very suddenly in spite of every care.
-
-These things are not so simple. This is why it is not yet possible
-to bring many of the most charming and most interesting members of
-the African animal world to Europe. I much wish that it were possible
-to bring full-grown lions over. I would far rather see one or two of
-them in all their native wildness and majesty than a whole troop of
-home-reared and almost domesticated specimens.
-
-But the hours I devoted to my own attempts in this direction were not
-spent in vain. They were memorable hours, full of splendid excitement.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: A FEW SPECIMENS OF ELEPHANT-TUSKS SECURED BY THE
-EMISSARIES OF DEUSS & CO., IN PORTUGUESE EAST AFRICA.]
-
-XII
-
-A Dying Race of Giants
-
-
-Every one who knows Equatorial East Africa will bear me out in saying
-that it is easier nowadays to kill fifty rhinoceroses than a single
-bull-elephant carrying tusks weighing upwards of a couple of hundred
-pounds.
-
-There are only a few survivors left of this world-old race of giants.
-Many species, probably, have disappeared without leaving a single
-trace behind. The block granite sarcophagi on the Field of the Dead in
-Sakkarah in Egypt, dating from 3,500 years ago, are memorials (each
-weighing some 64 tons) of the sacred bulls of Apis: the mightiest
-monument ever raised by man to beast. Bulls were sacred to Ptah, the
-God of Memphis, and their gravestones--which Mariette, for instance,
-brought to light in 1851--yield striking evidence of the pomp attached
-to the cult of animals in those days of old.
-
-But no monument has been raised to the African elephants that have been
-slaughtered by millions in the last hundred years. Save for some of the
-huge tusks for which they were killed, there will be scarcely a trace
-of them in the days to come, when their Indian cousins--the sacred
-white elephants--may perhaps still be revered.
-
-John Hanning Speke, who with his fellow-countryman Grant discovered the
-Victoria Nyanza, found elephant herds grazing quite peacefully on its
-banks. The animals, nowadays so wild, hardly took any notice when some
-of their number were killed or wounded: they merely passed a little
-farther on and returned to their grazing.
-
-The same might be said of the Upper Nile swamps in the land of the
-Dinkas, in English territory, where, thanks to specially favourable
-conditions, the English have been successfully preserving the
-elephants. Also in the Knysna forests of Cape Colony some herds of
-elephants have been preserved by strict protective laws during the
-last eighty years or so. Experience with Indian elephants has proved
-that when protected the sagacious beasts are not so shy and wild as is
-generally the case with those of Africa. For the latter have become,
-especially the full-grown and experienced specimens, the shyest of
-creatures, and therefore the most difficult to study.
-
-Should any one differ from me as to this, I would beg him to
-substantiate his opinion by the help of photographs, taken in the
-wilderness, of elephants which have not been shot at--photographs
-depicting for us the African elephant in its native wilds. When he
-does, I shall “give him best”!
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _Photographed at Zanzibar._
-
-    THE HEAVIEST ELEPHANTS’ TUSKS EVER RECORDED IN THE ANNALS OF EAST
-    AFRICAN TRADE. THEY WEIGHED 450 POUNDS. I TRIED IN VAIN TO SECURE
-    THEM FOR A GERMAN MUSEUM. THEY WERE BOUGHT FOR AMERICA.]
-
-The elephant is no longer to be found anywhere in its original numbers.
-It is found most frequently in the desert places between Abyssinia and
-the Nile and the Galla country, or in the inaccessible parts of the
-Congo, on the Albert Nyanza, and in the hinterlands of Nigeria and the
-Gold Coast. But in the vicinity of the Victoria Nyanza things have
-changed greatly. Richard Kandt tells us that a single elephant-hunter,
-a Dane, who afterwards succumbed to the climate, alone slaughtered
-hundreds in the course of years.
-
-According to experts in this field of knowledge, some of the huge
-animals of prehistoric days disappeared in a quite brief space of time
-from the earth’s surface. But we cannot explain why beasts so well
-qualified to defend themselves should so speedily cease to exist.
-However that may be, the fate of the still existing African elephant
-appears to me tragic. At one time elephants of different kinds dwelt in
-our own country.[9] Remains of the closely related mammoth, with its
-long hair adapted to a northern climate, are sometimes excavated from
-the ice in Siberia. Thus we obtain information about its kind of food,
-for remnants of food well preserved by the intense cold have been
-found between the teeth and in the stomach--remnants which botanists
-have been able to identify.
-
-By a singular coincidence, the mammoth remains preserved in the ice
-have been found just at a time when the craze for slaughtering their
-African relations has reached its climax, and when by means of arms
-that deal out death at great, and therefore safe distances, the work of
-annihilation is all too rapidly progressing. The scientific equipment
-of mankind is so nearly perfect that we are able to make the huge
-ice-bound mammoths, which have perhaps been reposing in their cold
-grave for thousands of years, speak for themselves. And it can be
-proved by means of the so-called “physiological blood-proof” that the
-frozen blood of the Siberian mammoths shows its kinship with the Indian
-and African elephant!
-
-It is strange to reflect that mankind, having attained to its present
-condition of enlightenment, should yet have designs upon the last
-survivors of this African race of giants--and chiefly in the interests
-of a game! For the ivory is chiefly required to make billiard balls! Is
-it not possible to contrive some substitute in these days when nothing
-seems beyond the power of science?
-
-A. H. Neumann, a well-known English hunter, says that some years ago it
-was already too late to reap a good ivory harvest in Equatorial Africa
-or in Mombasa. He had to seek farther afield in the far-lying districts
-between the Indian Ocean and the Upper Nile, where he obtained about
-£5,000 worth of ivory during one hunting expedition.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    A STORE OF ELEPHANTS’ TUSKS IN ONE OF THE WORKROOMS OF THE
-    IMPORTANT IVORY FACTORY OF A. MEYER AT HAMBURG. IT SHOULD BE
-    BORNE IN MIND THAT THERE ARE A NUMBER OF OTHER SUCH FACTORIES ON
-    THE CONTINENT AND IN AMERICA.]
-
-Meanwhile powder and shot are at work day and night in the Dark
-Continent. It is not the white man himself who does most of the work of
-destruction; it is the native who obtains the greater part of the ivory
-used in commerce. Two subjects of Manga Bell, for instance, killed a
-short time back, in the space of a year and a half, elephants enough
-to provide one hundred and thirty-nine large tusks for their chief!
-There is no way of changing matters except by completely disarming
-the African natives. Unless this is done, in a very short time the
-elephant will only be found in the most inaccessible and unhealthy
-districts. It does not much matter whether this comes about in a
-single decade or in several. What are thirty or forty or fifty years,
-in comparison with the endless ages that have gone to the evolution
-of these wonderful animals? It is remarkable, too, that in spite of
-all the hundreds of African elephants which are being killed, not a
-single museum in the whole world possesses one of the gigantic male
-elephants which were once so numerous, but which are now so rarely to
-be met with. Accompanying this chapter is a photograph of the heaviest
-elephant-tusks which have ever reached the coast from the interior. The
-two tusks together weigh about 450 pounds. One can form some idea of
-the size of the elephant which carried them! I was unfortunately unable
-to obtain these tusks for Germany, although they were taken from German
-Africa. They were sent to America, and sold for nearly £1,000.
-
-I should like the reader to note, also, the illustration showing a room
-in an ivory factory. The number of tusks there visible will give an
-approximate notion of the tremendous slaughter which is being carried
-on.
-
-The price of ivory has been rising gradually, and is now ten times
-what it was some forty years ago in the Sudan, according to Brehm’s
-statistics. In Morgen’s time one could buy a fifty-pound tusk in the
-Cameroons for some stuff worth about sevenpence. In the last century or
-two the price of ivory has risen commensurately with that of all other
-such wares. Nowadays a sum varying from £300 to £400 may be obtained
-for the egg of the Great Auk, which became extinct less than half a
-century ago: whilst a stuffed specimen of the bird itself is worth at
-least £1,000. What will be the price of such things in years to come!
-
-In the light of these remarks the reader will easily understand how
-greatly I prize the photographs which I secured of two huge old
-bull-elephants in friendly company with a bull-giraffe, and which are
-here reproduced. It will be difficult, if not indeed impossible, ever
-again to photograph such mighty “tuskers” in company with giraffes.
-In the year 1863 Brehm wrote that no true picture existed of the real
-African elephant in its own actual haunts. The fact brought to light by
-these pictures is both new and surprising, especially for the expert,
-who hitherto has been inclined to believe that giraffes were dwellers
-on the velt and accustomed to fight shy of the damp forests. That they
-should remain in such a region in company with elephants for weeks at a
-time was something hitherto unheard of. I do not know how to express my
-delight at being able after long hours of patient waiting to sight
-this rare conjunction of animals from my place of observation either
-with a Goerz-Trizeder or with the naked eye, but only for a few seconds
-at a time, because of the heavy showers of rain which kept falling.
-How disappointing and mortifying it was to find oneself left in the
-lurch by the sun--and just immediately under the Equator, where one
-had a right to it! What I had so often experienced in my photographic
-experiments in the forests by the Rufu River--that is, the want of
-sunlight for days together--now made me almost desperate. At any moment
-the little gathering of animals might break up, in which case I should
-never be able to get a photographic record of the strange friendship.
-Since the publication of my first work I have often been asked to give
-some further particulars about this matter. Therefore, perhaps these
-details, supported by photographs, will not be unacceptable to my
-readers.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    AN AUK’S EGG, ABOUT THREE-FIFTH OF ACTUAL SIZE. AUK’S EGGS COME
-    INTO THE MARKET IN ENGLAND FROM TIME TO TIME AND FETCH AS MUCH AS
-    £300 APIECE.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    THE SPECIMEN OF THE AUK PRESERVED IN THE BERLIN NATURAL HISTORY
-    MUSEUM. IT WOULD BE WORTH AT LEAST £1,000 IF OFFERED FOR SALE.
-
-(REPRODUCED HERE BY KIND PERMISSION OF THE DIRECTOR OF THE MUSEUM, DR.
-BRAUER VON FRL. ELFRIEDE ZIMMERMANN.)]
-
-I candidly admit that had I suddenly come upon these great
-bull-elephants in the jungle in years gone by I could not have resisted
-killing them. But I have gradually learned to restrain myself in this
-respect. It would have been a fine sensation from the sportsman’s
-standpoint, and would besides have brought in a round sum of perhaps
-£500; but what was all that in comparison with the securing of one
-single authentic photograph which would afford irrefutable proof of so
-surprising a fact?
-
-The western spurs of the great Kilimanjaro range end somewhat abruptly
-in a high table-land, which is grass-grown and covered in patches with
-sweet-smelling acacias. This undulating velt-region gradually slopes
-down until in its lowest parts the waters collect and form the western
-Njiri marshes, which at some seasons of the year are almost dry.
-Volcanic hills arise here and there on the plain, from whose summits
-one can obtain a wide view. One of the most prominent of these hills
-has a cavity at its summit. It is evidently the crater of an extinct
-volcano which is filled with water, like the volcanic lakes of my
-native Eifel district. A thicket begins not far from this hill, and
-gradually extends until it merges into the forest beyond. The burning
-sun has dried up all the grass up to the edge of the thicket. There is
-so little rain here that the poor Xerophites are the only exception
-that can stand the drought. Only on the inner walls of the steep crater
-do bushes and shrubs grow, for these are only exposed at midday to the
-sun’s heat.
-
-Thus a cool moisture pervades this hollow except during the very
-hottest season. Paths, trodden down by crowds of game, lead to the
-shining mirror of the little lake. It used to be the haunt of beasts
-of prey, and the smaller animals would probably seek drinking-places
-miles distant rather than come to this grim declivity. There is,
-however, a kind of road leading to the summit of this hill, a very
-uneven road, wide at first, then gradually narrower and narrower, which
-had become almost impassable with grass and brushwood when I made my
-way up. This road was trodden by the cattle herds of the Masai. It
-may be that rhinoceroses and elephants were the original makers of it
-before the warlike shepherds began to lead their thirsty cattle to this
-secluded lake. Be this as it may, my Masai friends assured me that
-they brought their herds here time out of mind until the rinderpest
-devastated them.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A THICKET, HUNG WITH LICHENS, MUCH FREQUENTED BY ELEPHANTS AND
-SOMETIMES ALMOST IMPENETRABLE TO MAN.]
-
-For weeks I had had natives on the look-out for elephants. They could
-only tell me, however, of small herds composed of cows and young
-bulls, and that was not good enough from the point of view of either
-sportsman or photographer. However, I made several excursions round
-the Kilepo Hill from my camp, never taking more than a few men with
-me--it so often happens that one’s followers spoil the chase, perhaps
-quite frustrate it. This is well known to natives and experienced
-elephant-hunters.
-
-I soon became familiar with the district and its vegetation. For
-hours I followed paths which led through thick undergrowth, and I had
-some unpleasant encounters with rhinoceroses. I knew well that the
-neighbourhood of the hills, with its tall impenetrable growth, was a
-most likely one for astute and cautious bull-elephants to haunt.
-
-Hunting elephants in this fashion, day after day, with only a few
-followers, is a delightful experience. It happens, perhaps, that one
-has to pass the night in the forest under the free vault of heaven,
-with the branches of a huge tree as shelter. The faint glow of the
-camp-fire fades and flickers, producing weird effects in the network of
-the foliage. How quickly one falls victim to atavistic terrors of the
-night! Terrors of what? Of the “pepo ya miti,” the spirit of the woods,
-or of some other mysterious sprite? No, of wild animals--the same kind
-of fear that little children have in the dark of something unknown,
-dangerous and threatening. My followers betake themselves to their
-slumbers with indifference, for they have little concern for probable
-dangers. But the imaginative European is on the look-out for peril--the
-thought of it holds and fascinates him.... Somewhere in the distance,
-perhaps, the heavens are illuminated with a bright light. Far, far
-away a conflagration is raging, devastating miles upon miles of the
-vale below. The sky reflects the light, which blazes up now purple,
-now scarlet! Often it will last for days and nights, nay weeks, whole
-table-lands being in flames and acting as giant beacons to light up
-the landscape!... My thoughts would turn towards the bonfires which in
-Germany of old flashed their message across the land--news, perhaps, of
-the burial of some great prince.... So, now, it seemed to me that those
-distant flames told of the last moments of some monarch of the wild.
-
-At last I received good news. A huge bull-elephant had been seen for a
-few minutes in the early morning hours in the vicinity of the Kilepo
-Hill. This overjoyed me, for I was quite certain that in a few days now
-we should meet them above on the hill.
-
-I left my camp to the care of the greater part of my caravan, but sent
-a good many of my men back into the inhabited districts of the northern
-Kilimanjaro to get fresh provisions from Useri. I myself went about a
-day’s journey up Kilepo Hill, accompanied by a few of my men, resolved
-to get a picture _coûte que coûte_.
-
-It was characteristic of my scouts that they could only give me
-details about elephants. As often as I asked them about other game I
-could get nothing out of them, for what were giraffes, buffaloes,
-and rhinoceroses to them, and what interest could they have in such
-worthless creatures! The whole mind of the natives has been for many
-years past directed by us Europeans upon ivory. Native hunters in
-scantily populated districts dream and think only of “jumbe”--ivory,
-and always more ivory, as the Esquimaux yearns for seal blubber and
-oil and the European for gold, gold, gold! In these parts giraffes and
-rhinoceroses count for nothing in comparison with the elephant--the
-native thinks no more of them than one of our own mountaineers would
-think of a rabbit or a hare. Only those who have seen this for
-themselves can realise how quickly one gets accustomed to the point
-of view! In the gameless and populous coast districts the appearance
-of a dwarf antelope or of a bustard counts for a good deal, and holds
-out promise to the sportsman of other such game--waterbuck, perhaps.
-I have read in one of the coast newspapers the interesting news that
-Mr. So and So was fortunate enough to kill a bustard and an antelope.
-That certainly was quite good luck, for you may search long in populous
-districts and find nothing. As you penetrate into the wilder districts
-conditions change rapidly, and after weeks and months of marching in
-the interior you get accustomed to expecting only the biggest of big
-game. The other animals become so numerous that the sight of them no
-longer quickens the pulse.
-
-I have already remarked that elephants are much less cautious by night
-than by day. The very early morning hours are the best for sighting
-elephants, before they retire into their forest fastnesses to escape
-the burning rays of the sun. But as at this time of the year the sun
-hardly ever penetrated the thick bank of clouds, there was a chance of
-seeing the elephants at a later hour and in the bush. So every morning
-either I or one of my scouts was posted on one of the hills--Kilepo
-especially--to keep a sharp look-out. It needed three hours in the
-dark and two in the daylight to get up the hill. It was not a pleasant
-climb. We were always drenched to the skin by the wet grass and bushes,
-and it was impossible to light a fire to dry ourselves, for the
-animals would certainly have scented it. We had to stay there in our
-wet clothes, hour after hour, watching most carefully and making the
-utmost of the rare moments when the mist rolled away in the valley and
-enabled us to peer into the thickets. It may seem surprising that we
-should have found so much difficulty in sighting the elephants, but one
-must remember that they emerge from their mud-baths with a coating that
-harmonises perfectly with the tree-trunks and the general environment,
-and are therefore hard to descry. Besides, the conditions of light in
-the tropics are very different from what we are accustomed to in our
-own northern clime, and are very deceptive.
-
-When fortune was kind I could just catch a glimpse during a brief
-spell of sunshine of a gigantic elephant’s form in the deep valley
-beneath. But only for a few instants. The next moment there was nothing
-to be seen save long vistas of damp green plants and trees. The deep
-rain-channels stood out clear and small in the landscape from where I
-stood. The mightiest trees looked like bushes; the hundred-feet-high
-trunks of decayed trees which stood up out of the undergrowth here
-and there looked like small stakes. In the ever-changing light one
-loses all sense of the vastness of things and distances.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A VELT FIRE. THE BONES OF AN ELEPHANT SOON TO BECOME FOOD FOR THE
-FLAMES.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A VELT FIRE.]
-
-For once the mist rolls off rapidly; a gust of wind drives away
-the clouds. The sun breaks through. Look! there is a whole herd
-of elephants below us in the valley! But in another second the
-impenetrable forest of trees screens them from my camera. At last
-they become clearly visible again, and I manage to photograph two
-cow-elephants in the distance. The sun vanishes again now, and an hour
-later I have at last the whole herd clearly before me in the hollow.
-How the little calves cling to their mothers! How quietly the massive
-beasts move about, now disappearing into the gullies, now reappearing
-and climbing up the hillside with a sureness of foot that makes them
-seem more like automatons than animals. Every now and again the ruddy
-earth-coloured backs emerge from the mass of foliage. A wonderful and
-moving picture! For I know full well that the gigantic mothers are
-caring for their children and protecting them from the human fiend who
-seeks to destroy them with pitfalls, poisoned arrows, or death-dealing
-guns. How cautiously they all move, scenting the wind with uplifted
-trunks, and keeping a look-out for pitfalls! Every movement shows
-careful foresight; the gigantic old leaders have evidently been through
-some dire experiences.
-
-Suddenly a warning cry rings out. Immediately the whole herd disappears
-noiselessly into the higher rain-channels of the hill--the “Subugo
-woods” of the Wandorobo hunters.
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-Had the elephants not got these places of refuge to fly to they
-would have died out long ago! This is the only means by which they
-are still able to exist in Africa. I feel how difficult it is to
-depict accurately the constant warfare that is going on between man
-and beast, and can only give others a vague idea of what it is like.
-Many secrets of the life and fate and the speedy annihilation of the
-African elephants will sink into the grave with the last commercial
-elephant-hunters. And once again civilisation will have done away with
-an entire species in the course of a single century. The question as to
-how far this was necessary will provide ample material for pamphlets
-and discussions in times to come.
-
-When one knows the “subugo,” however, one understands how it has been
-possible for elephants in South Africa to have held out so long in
-the Knysna and Zitzikama forests until European hunters began to go
-after them with rifles in expert fashion. Fritsch visited the Knysna
-forests in 1863. “It is easy,” he says, “to understand how elephants
-have managed to remain in their forests for weeks together before one
-of their number has fallen, even when hundreds of men have been after
-them. There are spots in these forests--regular islands completely
-surrounded by water--where they take refuge, and where no one can get
-at them.”
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-AN OLD ACACIA TREE.]
-
-Of course, Fritsch speaks of a time when the art of shooting was in
-its infancy. One must not forget that nowadays ruthless marksmen
-will reach the mighty beasts even in these islands of refuge--marksmen
-who shoot at a venture with small-calibre rifles, and who find the
-dead elephant later somewhere in the neighbourhood, with vultures
-congregated round the corpse.[10]
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-Now perhaps I may have to wait in vain for hours, days, and even
-weeks! Some mornings there is absolutely nothing to be seen--the
-animals have gone down to the lake to drink, or have taken refuge in
-one of the little morasses at the foot of the hill. Judging by their
-nocturnal wanderings it seems as if they must have other accessible
-drinking-places in the vicinity. A search for these places, however, is
-not to be thought of. If I were to penetrate to these haunts they would
-immediately note my footsteps and take to flight for months, perhaps,
-putting miles between themselves and their would-be photographer.
-
-For to-day, at any rate, all is over. The sun only breaks through the
-heavy masses of cloud for a few minutes at a time, and great sombre
-palls of mist hang over the forests, constantly changing from one shape
-to another.
-
-To obtain a picture by means of the telephoto-lens did not seem at all
-feasible. But a photo of bull-elephants and giraffes together!--so long
-as there was the faintest chance of it I would not lose heart. It was
-not easy, but I _must_ succeed! So, wet through and perishing with
-cold, I wandered every morning through the tall grass to the top of the
-hill and waited and waited....
-
-The elephants seemed to have completely disappeared; no matter how
-far I extended my daily excursions, they were nowhere to be seen. At
-length I came across a fairly big herd, but they had taken up their
-stand in such an impenetrable thicket that it was quite impossible to
-sight them. After much creeping and crawling through the elephant and
-rhinoceros paths in the undergrowth I managed to get just for a few
-minutes a faint glimpse of the vague outline of single animals, but so
-indistinct that it was impossible to determine their age, size, or sex.
-In East Africa elephants are generally seen under these unfavourable
-conditions. Very seldom does one come upon a good male tusk-bearing
-specimen, as well-meaning but inexperienced persons, such as I myself
-was at one time, would desire.
-
-There is something very exciting and stimulating in coming face to
-face with these gigantic creatures in the thick undergrowth. All
-one’s nerves are strained to see or hear the faintest indication of
-the whereabouts of the herd; the sultry air, the dense tangle through
-which we have to move, and which hinders every step, combine to excite
-us. We can only see a few paces around. The strong scent of elephant
-stimulates us. The snapping and creaking of branches and twigs, the
-noises made by the beasts themselves, especially the shrill cry of
-warning given out from time to time by one of the herd--all add to
-the tension. The clanging, pealing sound of this cry has something
-particularly weird in it in the stillness of the great forest.
-At such a signal the whole herd moves forward, to-day quietly without
-noise, and to-morrow in wild blustering flight. It is very seldom
-that one can catch them up on the same day, and then only after long
-hours of pursuit.... These forest sanctuaries, together with their own
-caution, have done more to stave off the extermination of the species
-than have all the sporting restrictions that have been introduced.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-THE TWO ELEPHANTS.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    THE TUSKS OF THE ELEPHANTS SEEMED EVEN LARGER THAN THEY REALLY
-    WERE, AND OUT OF All PROPORTION TO THE SIZE OF THE ELEPHANTS,
-    THOUGH THESE WERE EXCEPTIONALLY BIG BEASTS, NEARLY 12 FEET IN
-    HEIGHT. THE GIRAFFE COMES OUT CURIOUSLY IN THIS PICTURE, RIGHT AT
-    THE BOTTOM.]
-
-Every morning I returned to my post of observation on the hill. I could
-easily have killed one or other of the herd. But I did not wish to
-disturb the elephants, and I had also good reason for believing that
-there were no very large tusks among them. Morning after morning I
-returned disappointed to my camp, only to find my way back on the next
-day to my sentry-box at the edge of the forest on the hill. Days went
-by and nothing was seen save the back or head of an elephant emerging
-from the “subugo.” This “subugo” knows well how to protect its inmates.
-
-Every morning the same performance. At my feet the mist-mantled forest,
-and near me my three or four blacks, to whom my reluctance to shoot the
-elephants and my preoccupation with my camera were alike inexplicable.
-Whenever the clouds rolled away over the woods and valley it was
-necessary to keep the strictest watch. Then I discovered smaller herds
-of giraffes with one or two elephants accompanying them. But this would
-be for a few seconds only. The heavy banks of cloud closed to again. A
-beautiful large dove (_Columba aquatrix_) flew about noisily, and like
-our ringdove, made its love-flights round about the hill, and cooed its
-deep notes close by. Down below in the valley echoed the beautiful,
-resonant, melancholy cry of the great grey shrike; cock and hen birds
-answered one another in such fashion that the call seemed to come from
-only one bird. There was no other living thing to see or hear.
-
-But now! At last! I shall never forget how suddenly in one of
-the brilliant bursts of sunshine the mighty white tusks of two
-bull-elephants shone out in the hollow so dazzlingly white that one
-must have beheld them to understand their extraordinary effect, seen
-thus against that impressive background. Close by was a bull-giraffe.
-Vividly standing out from the landscape, they would have baffled
-any artist trying to put them on the canvas. I understood then why
-A. H. Neumann, one of the most skilful English elephant-hunters, so
-often remarked on the overwhelming impression he received from these
-snow-white, shining elephant-tusks. So white do they come out in the
-photographs that the prints look as though they had been touched up.
-But these astonishing pictures are as free from any such tampering as
-are all the rest of my studies of animal life.[11]
-
-Before I succeeded in getting my first picture of the elephants and
-giraffes consorting together, I was much tempted to kill the two huge
-bull-elephants. They came so often close to the foot of my hill that I
-had plenty of opportunities of killing them without over-much danger
-to myself or my men. As I caught sight of that rare trio I must
-honestly confess I had a strong desire to shoot. This desire gave way,
-however, before my still keener wish to photograph them. The temptation
-to use my rifle came from the thought of the satisfaction with which I
-should see them placed in some museum. It might be possible to prepare
-their skins here on this very spot. In short, I had a hard struggle
-with myself.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Shillings, phot._
-
-THE TWO ELEPHANTS.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A QUAINT COMPANIONSHIP--ELEPHANT AND GIRAFFE. THE GIRAFFE MAY BE JUST
-MADE OUT IN THE FOREGROUND, AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PHOTOGRAPH.]
-
-But the wish to secure the photographs triumphed. No museum in the
-world had ever had such a picture. That thought was conclusive.
-
-The accompanying illustrations give both the colossal beasts in
-different attitudes. The giraffe stands quite quiet, intent on its own
-safety, or gazes curiously at its companions. What a contrast there
-is between the massive elephants and the slender, towering creature
-whose colouring harmonises so entirely with its surroundings! Wherever
-you see giraffes they always blend with their background. They obey
-the same laws as leopards in this respect, and leopards are the best
-samples of the “mimicry” of protective colouring.
-
-What long periods of hunger must have gone to the formation of the
-giraffe’s neck!
-
-It would seem as though these survivors of two prehistoric species had
-come together thus, at a turning-point in the history of their kind,
-for the special purpose of introducing themselves by means of their
-photographs to millions of people. I owe it to an extraordinary piece
-of good fortune that I was able to take another picture of them during
-a second burst of sunshine which lit up the forest.
-
-It is the event of a lifetime to have been the witness of so strange
-and unsuspected a condition of things as this friendship between two
-such dissimilar animals. The extent of my good luck may be estimated
-from the fact that the famous traveller Le Vaillant, more than
-seventy years ago, wished so ardently to see a giraffe in its natural
-surroundings, _if only once_, that he went to South Africa for that
-purpose, and that, having achieved it on a single occasion, as he
-relates in his work, he was quite overjoyed. Although I was aware that
-herds of giraffes frequented this region without fear of the elephants,
-it was a complete revelation to me to find an old bull-giraffe living
-in perfect harmony for days together with two elephants for the sake
-of mutual protection. I can only account for this strange alliance by
-the need for such mutual protection. The giraffe is accustomed to use
-its eyes to assure itself of its safety, whilst elephants scent the
-breeze with their trunks, raised like the letter S for the purpose. In
-these valleys the direction of the wind varies very often. The struggle
-for existence is here very vividly brought before us. How often in
-the course of centuries must similar meetings have occurred in Africa
-and in other parts of the world, before I was able to record this
-observation for the first time? These pictures are a good instance of
-the value of photography as a means of getting and giving information
-in regard to wild life.
-
-Kilepo Hill will always stand out vividly in my memory. Elephants
-may still climb up to the small still lake shut in by the wall-like
-hillsides, as they have done for ages, to quench their thirst at
-its refreshing waters. For hundreds of years the Masai, for the
-sake of their cattle herds, contested with them the rights of this
-drinking-place. Then the white man came and the Masai vanished, and
-again the elephants found their way to the Kilepo valley. Later, white
-settlers came--Boers, ruthless in their attitude towards wild life--and
-took up their abode in the Kilimanjaro region. The day cannot now be
-far distant when the last of the elephants will have gone from the
-heart of Kilepo Hill. But these two, long since killed, no doubt, will
-continue to live on in my pictures for many a year to come.
-
-[Illustration: THE YOUNG LION THAT I MANAGED TO CAPTURE AND BRING ALIVE
-INTO CAMP.]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: A STUDY IN PROTECTIVE “MIMICRY.”]
-
-XIII
-
-A Vanishing Feature of the Velt
-
-
-“When men and beasts first emerged from the tree called
-‘Omumborombongo,’ all was dark. Then a Damara lit a fire, and zebras,
-gnus, and giraffes sprang frightened away, whilst oxen, sheep, and
-dogs clustered fearlessly together.” So Fritsch told us forty years
-ago, from the ancient folk-lore of the Ova-Herero, one of the most
-interesting tribes of South-West Africa.
-
-If the photographing of wild life is only to be achieved when
-conditions are favourable, and is beset with peculiar difficulties in
-the wilderness of Equatorial Africa, one might at least suppose that
-such huge creatures as elephants, rhinoceroses, and giraffes could be
-got successfully upon the “plate.” But they “spring frightened away”!
-The cunning, the caution, and the shyness of these animals make all
-attempts at photographing them very troublesome indeed; for to
-secure a good result you need plenty of sunlight, besides the absence
-of trees between you and the desired object. And when everything seems
-to favour you, there is sure to be something wanting--very probably
-the camera itself. Fortune favours the photographer at sudden and
-unexpected moments, and then only for a very short while. One instant
-too late, and you may have to wait weeks, months, even years for your
-next opportunity. I would give nine-tenths of the photos I have taken
-of animal life for some half-dozen others which I was unable to take
-because I did not have my camera to hand just at the right moment. Thus
-it was with the photographing of the three lions I killed on January
-25, 1897, and of the four others I saw on the same day, on the then
-almost unknown Athi plains in the Wakikuju country. Also with that
-great herd of elephants which so nearly did for me, and which I should
-have dearly liked to photograph just as they began their onrush. (I
-have told the story in _With Flashlight and Rifle_.) I remember, too,
-the sight of a giraffe herd of forty-five head which I came across
-on November 4, 1897,[12] about two days’ journey north-west of the
-Kilimanjaro. The hunter of to-day would travel over the velt for a
-very long while before meeting with anything similar. In earlier
-days immense numbers of long-necked giraffe-like creatures, now
-extinct, lived on the velt; the rare Okapi, that was discovered in the
-Central African forests a short time ago, has aroused the interest of
-zoologists as being a relative of that extinct species.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A GIRAFFE IN FULL FLIGHT.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A GIRAFFE BULL IN AN ACACIA GROVE.]
-
-Within the last hundred or even fifty years, the giraffe itself was
-to be found in large herds in many parts of Africa. The first giraffe
-of which we know appeared in the Roman arena. About two hundred years
-ago we are told some specimens were brought over to Europe, and caused
-much astonishment. The Nubian menageries some years ago brought a
-goodly number of the strange beasts to our zoological gardens.[13]
-But how many people have seen giraffes in their native haunts? When,
-in 1896, I saw them thus for the first time, I realised how thin
-and wretched our captive specimens are by the side of the splendid
-creatures of the velt. Le Vaillant, in his accounts of his travels in
-Cape Colony and the country known to-day as German South-West Africa,
-gives a spirited description of these animals, and tells how after
-much labour and trouble he managed to take a carefully dried skin to
-the coast and to send it to Germany. That was seventy years ago. Since
-then many Europeans have seen giraffes, but they have told us very
-little about them. The German explorer Dr. Richard Böhm has given us
-wonderfully accurate information about them and their ways. But the
-beautiful water-colours so excellently drawn by a hand so soon to be
-disabled in Africa, were lost in that dreadful conflagration in which
-his hunting-box on the peaceful Wala River and most of his diaries were
-destroyed. Dr. Richard Kandt, whilst on his expeditions in search of
-the sources of the Nile, found the charred remains of the hut. “Ubi
-sunt, qui ante nos in mundo fuere?”
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A SUCCESSFUL PHOTOGRAPH, TAKEN AFTER A LONG PURSUIT AND MANY FAILURES.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-TELEPHOTO STUDIES OF GIRAFFES (_GIRAFFA SCHILLINGSI_, Mtsch.).]
-
-Zoological experts tell us that there are several species of
-giraffe inhabiting separate zoological regions. In the districts
-I traversed, I came across an entirely new species.... Their life
-and habits interested me beyond measure. I often think of them
-still--moving about like phantoms among the thorny bushes, and in and
-out the sunlit woods, or standing out silhouetted against the horizon.
-
-Though by nature peaceful, the giraffe is not defenceless--a kick from
-one of its immense legs, or a blow sideways with the great thick-necked
-head of a bull, would be quite enough to kill a mere man. But this
-gigantic beast, whose coat so much resembles that of the blood-thirsty
-tiger, leopard, and jaguar, never attacks, and only brings its forces
-into play for purposes of defence. It harms no man, and it has lived
-on the velt since time immemorial. It is the more to be deplored,
-therefore, that it should disappear now so quickly and so suddenly.
-
-I have already remarked several times on the way giraffes and other
-African mammals harmonise in their colouring with their environment.
-Professor V. Schmeil has pointed out how my opinion in this respect
-accords with that of earlier observers.[14] The way in which giraffes
-mingle with their surroundings as regards not only their colour but
-also their form, is especially astonishing. The illustration on page
-550 proves this in a striking manner, for it shows how the outlines of
-the giraffe correspond exactly with those of the tree close to it.
-
-One may spend days and weeks on the velt trying to get near giraffes
-without result. Far away on the horizon you descry the gigantic
-“Twigga”--as the Waswahili call it--but every attempt to approach is
-in vain. Then, all of a sudden it may happen--as it did once to me
-near the Western Njiri marshes, Nov. 29, 1898--that a herd of giraffes
-passes quite near you without fear. On the occasion in question, as is
-so often the case, I had not my photographic apparatus at hand. I could
-have got some excellent pictures with quite an ordinary camera. The
-giraffes came towards me until within sixty paces. They then suddenly
-took wildly to flight. The little herd consisted of nine head: an old
-very dark-spotted bull, a light-spotted cow, three younger cows with
-a calf each, and finally a young dark-spotted bull. Orgeich and I had
-been able to observe the animals quietly as they stood, as if rooted
-to the spot, with their long necks craned forward, their eyes fixed
-upon us.[15] I cannot explain why the animals were so fearless on that
-occasion. It was a most unusual occurrence, for ordinarily giraffes
-manage to give the sportsman a wide berth.
-
-Again, it may happen, especially about midday, that the hunter will
-sight a single giraffe or a whole herd at no very great distance. At
-these times, if one is endowed with good lungs and is in training, one
-may get close enough to the creatures before they take to flight.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _Hauptmann Merker, phot._
-
-GIRAFFE STUDIES.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-GIRAFFE STUDIES.]
-
-Or it may happen that you will sight giraffes about noontide sheltering
-under the fragrant acacia trees. I remember one occasion especially, in
-the neighbourhood of the Gelei volcanic hills. I had hardly penetrated
-for more than about a hundred and twenty paces into an acacia wood,
-when I suddenly saw the legs of several gigantic giraffes--their heads
-were hidden in the crowns of mimosa. The wind was favourable. I might
-within a few minutes find myself in the middle of the herd! But, a
-moment later, I felt the ground tremble and the huge beasts with their
-hard hoofs were thumping over the sun-baked ground. They crashed
-through the branches and fled to the next shelter of mimosa trees.
-Although I might easily have killed some of them, it was absolutely
-impossible to take a photograph. But I was at times more fortunate in
-snapshotting single specimens. Carefully and cautiously, I would creep
-forward, of course alone, leaving my people behind, until I came within
-about twenty paces of the giraffe. By dodging about the trees or shrubs
-near which it stood I have sometimes managed to obtain good pictures
-of the animal making off in its queer way. The utmost caution was
-necessary. I had to consider not only the place where the animal was
-but the position of the sun, and that most carefully. The possibility
-of photographing giraffes with the telephoto lens is very slight
-indeed. One’s opportunities are turned to best account by the skilful
-use of an ordinary hand-camera.
-
-In this way, also, I managed to get pictures of the peculiar motion of
-giraffes in full flight. My negatives are a proof of the comparative
-ease with which native hunters may hunt giraffes with poisoned arrows.
-I have often met natives in possession of freshly killed giraffe flesh.
-
-In most cases bushes and trees are a great hindrance to the taking of
-photographs, especially of large herds. At such times it was as good
-as a game of chess between the photographic sportsman and the animals.
-For hours I have followed them with a camera ready to snapshot, but
-the far-sighted beasts have always frustrated my plans. Thus passed
-hours, days and weeks. But good luck would come back again, and I was
-sometimes able to develop an excellent negative in a camp swarming with
-mosquitoes.
-
-It is especially in the peculiar light attendant on the rainy
-season and amidst tall growths that giraffes mingle so with their
-surroundings. It is only when the towering forms are silhouetted
-against the sky that they can be clearly seen on the open velt.
-At midday, when the velt is shimmering with a thousand waves of
-light, when everything seems aglow with the dazzling sun, even the
-most practised eye can scarcely distinguish the outlines of single
-objects. By such a light the sandy-coloured oryx antelopes and the
-stag-like waterbuck look coal-black; the uninitiated take zebras for
-donkeys--they appear so grey--and rhinoceroses resting on the velt for
-ant-hills. But giraffes especially mingle with the surrounding mimosa
-woods at this hour in such a way as only those who have seen it could
-believe possible.
-
-When you see these animals in their wild state, your thoughts naturally
-revert to the penned-up tame specimens in zoological gardens or those
-preserved in museums. Well do I remember that the first wild
-zebra I saw looked to me little like a tame specimen in a zoological
-garden.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A HERD OF GIRAFFES: THE LEADER, A POWERFUL OLD BULL, IN THE FOREGROUND.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    TWO GIRAFFES OUT OF A HERD I CAME UPON IN THE VICINITY OF THE
-    MASAI COLONY CALLED KIRARAGUA, NOW ALMOST BEREFT OF WILD LIFE
-    OWING TO THE IMMIGRATION OF THE BOERS. THE ANIMALS MAY HERE
-    BE SEEN IN VERY CHARACTERISTIC SURROUNDINGS, ACACIA WOODS
-    ALTERNATING WITH WIDE EXPANSES COVERED WITH BOWSTRING HEMP.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    HEAD OF A GIRAFFE (_GIRAFFA RETICULATA_ De Winton), KILLED IN
-    SOUTH SOMALILAND BY THE EXPLORER CARLO VON ERLANGER. (BY KIND
-    PERMISSION OF THE BARONESS VON ERLANGER.)]
-
-The death-knell of the giraffe has tolled. This wonderful and harmless
-animal[16] is being completely annihilated! Fate has decreed that a
-somewhat near relative should be discovered in later days--namely
-the Okapi, which inhabits the Central African forests. It may be
-safely asserted that these unique animals will exist long after the
-complete extermination of the real giraffe. The species of giraffe,
-however, which has been dying out in the north and south of the African
-continent will be represented in the future by pictures within every
-man’s reach. Every observation as to their habits, every correct
-representation obtained, every specimen preserved for exhibition is of
-real value. And this I would impress on every intelligent man who has
-the opportunity of doing any of these things out in the wild.
-
-Professor Fritsch saw giraffes in South Africa as late as 1863. Shortly
-before these lines were printed he gave a glowing account of the
-impression they then made on him, an impression which was renewed when
-he saw my pictures.
-
-Large herds of giraffes still flourish in remote districts. My friend
-Carlo von Erlanger, whose early death is much to be regretted, found
-the animals particularly timid in South Somaliland when he traversed
-it for the first time. A fine stuffed specimen of these beautifully
-coloured giraffes is to be found in the Senckenberg Museum in
-Frankfort-on-Maine. An illustration gives the head of a giraffe killed
-by my late friend, and proves to the reader how much the two species
-differ--namely the South Somaliland giraffe as here depicted,[17]
-and that which I was the first to discover in Masailand. We have in
-Erlanger’s diary and in this illustration the only existing information
-about the presence of the giraffe in South Somaliland, a region which
-none but my daring friend and his companions have so far traversed.
-
-Hilgert, Carlo von Erlanger’s companion, mentions the frequent presence
-of the South Somali giraffe, but says that they showed themselves
-so shy that the members of the expedition generally had to content
-themselves with the numerous tracks of the animals or with the sight of
-them in the far distance.
-
-Meanwhile an effort is being made to save and protect what remains
-of the giraffe species in Africa. But there is little hope of
-ultimate success. I do trust, however, that a wealth of observations,
-illustrations, and specimens may be secured for our museums before
-it is too late. In this way, at least, a source of pleasure and
-information will be provided for future generations, and the giraffe
-will not share the fate of so many other rare creatures which no gold
-will ever give back to us.
-
-With sad, melancholy, wondering eyes the giraffe seems to peer into the
-world of the present, where there is room for it no longer. Whoever
-has seen the expression in those eyes, an expression which has
-been immortalised by poets in song and ballad for thousands of years,
-will not easily forget it, any more than he will forget the strong
-impression made on him when he looked at the “Serafa” of the Arabs in
-the wilderness.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _Hauptmann, Merker phot._
-
-GIRAFFE STUDY.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A TELEPHOTOGRAPH TAKEN AT A DISTANCE OF 200 PACES.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-_GIRAFFA SCHILLINGSI_, Mtsch. ]
-
-The day cannot be far distant when the beautiful eyes of the last
-“Twigga” will close for ever in the desert. No human skill will be
-able to prevent this, in spite of the progress of human knowledge and
-human technique. The giraffe can never enter the little circle of
-domesticated animals. Therefore it must go. Perhaps its eyes will close
-in the midst of the Elelescho jungle, thus lessening still further the
-fascination of that survival from the youth of the world.
-
-[Illustration: CRESTED CRANES ON THE WING.]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: HUNGRY VULTURES IN THE VICINITY OF MY CAMP.]
-
-XIV
-
-Camping out on the Velt
-
-
-Among the happiest days of my life I reckon those which I spent camping
-out in the heart of the Nyíka.
-
-Nearly every hour there had something fresh to arouse my interest, not
-only in the life of the wild animals that roamed at large all about,
-but also in that of the specimens which I had caught or my men had
-brought to me, and whose habits and ways I could observe within the
-enclosure of the camp. Of course our unique menagerie could not boast
-members of all the most attractive species of the African fauna, but it
-included some very rare and interesting animals which Europe has never
-seen. To know these one must go and live in wildest Africa and see them
-at home.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-PITCHING CAMP WITH A VIEW TO A LONG STAY.]
-
-My camp at times was like a little kingdom. Many of my people went out
-for weeks together to barter for fruits and vegetables with agrarian
-tribes. With the rest, I spent my days out in the open, hunting,
-collecting, and observing. My zoological collection increased daily,
-time flew by with all the many jobs there were to be done--drying,
-preserving, preparing, sorting, labelling, and sending off specimens.
-The primitive camp life was full of interest in spite of its seeming
-monotony. It was like ruling and ordering a little State. I thoroughly
-enjoyed this simple existence, in which I seemed to forget the
-artificial worries of civilisation and to be able to give myself up to
-my love for nature.
-
-[Illustration: MY TAXIDERMIST, ORGEICH, AT WORK.]
-
-Then I learned to appreciate the natives. Of course they are not to be
-judged from a European standpoint as regards habits and customs, but I
-shall always remember with pleasure certain strong and good characters
-among my followers.
-
-Nomadic hunters--shy and suspicious as the animals they
-hunted--sometimes paid us passing visits, whilst the whole world of
-beasts and birds thronged around our “outpost of civilisation,” so
-suddenly planted in their midst.
-
-My goods and chattels were stowed away in a hut which I had put up
-myself, and which was protected from wind, rain, and sun by masses of
-reeds and velt grasses. This hut was of the simplest construction,
-but I was very proud of it. It was useful not only for protecting
-zoological collections from the all-pervading rays of the sun, and from
-rain and cold, but also from the numerous little fiends of insects
-against which continual warfare has to be waged. The destructive
-activity of ants is a constant source of annoyance to travellers and
-collectors; I remember how my one-time fellow-traveller Prince Johannes
-Löwenstein had the flag on his tent destroyed by them in a single
-night. In one night also these ants bit through the ticket-threads
-by which my specimens were classified; in one night, again, the
-tiny fiends destroyed the bottoms of several trunks which had been
-carelessly put away!
-
-One has to wage constant warfare against destroyers of every kind.
-
-My cow, which was very valuable to me, not only as giving milk to my
-people, but also for nourishing young wild animals, was penned at
-night-time within a thick thorn hedge. My people made themselves more
-or less skilfully constructed shelters under the bushes and trees.
-Thus a miniature village grew up, of which I was the despotic ruler.
-The native hunters who visited us would sometimes accompany me on long
-expeditions.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-TERMITEN ANT-HILLS.]
-
-For me there are no “savages.” When an intelligent man comes across a
-tribe hitherto unknown to him he will carefully study their seemingly
-strange habits, and thus will soon recognise that they have their own
-customs and laws which they regard as sacred and immutable, and which
-order their whole existence. He will no longer desire the natives to
-adopt the manners and customs of the white man, for which they are
-absolutely unsuited.
-
-But by the time I got friendly with these nomads they were off again.
-It is against their habits to stay long in one place, and they do not
-willingly enter into close relations with a European--or indeed with
-any one. Suddenly one fine morning we find their sleeping quarters
-empty; they have disappeared, never to return. No obligation, no
-command, would ever bind these wanderers to one place. Children of the
-moment, children of the wilderness, their lives are spent in constant
-roaming.
-
-I hardly ever had a leisure hour, for there was much to arrange and
-see to in my camp. I had many functions to perform. I was my own
-commissioner of public safety; I looked after the commissariat; I
-was doctor and judge. I supervised all the other offices and pursued
-a number of handicrafts. Like Hans Sach I followed with pride the
-avocations of shoemaker, tailor, joiner, and smith, my very scanty
-acquaintance with all these various trades being put to astonishingly
-good use. I was like the one-eyed man among the blind.
-
-What judgments of Solomon have I not given! Once two of my best people
-quarrelled, an Askari and his wife. The serious character of the
-quarrel could be estimated from the noise of weeping and the sound of
-blows that had proceeded from their tent. The man wished to separate
-from his wife.
-
-“Why did you beat your wife last night?”
-
-The Askari (who has served under both German and English masters)
-stands to attention.
-
-“Because she was badly behaved--I will not keep her any more--I am
-sending her away.”
-
-“But why--rafiki yangu?--my friend? Such things will happen at times,
-but it is not always so bad--see? Who will look after you? who will
-prepare your meals? Look at her once more; she is very pretty--don’t
-you think so? And she cooks very well” (both parties, as well as the
-bystanders, are smiling by now). “Go along, then, and make friends.”
-
-And they go and make friends.
-
-A deputation of the Waparis come to the camp. They crouch down near
-my tent and beg for a “rain charm” to bring down showers upon their
-fields. It is somewhat difficult to help them. I take the gifts which
-they bring to pay for the charm and make them a more valuable return,
-and by means of the barometer I am able to foretell rain. They gaze at
-the wizard and his charm wonderingly, and come again later to see them
-both.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    AN UNUSUALLY LARGE ANT-HILL. INSIDE THIS STRONGHOLD THE “QUEEN”
-    ANT IS TO BE FOUND WALLED UP IN A SMALL CELL. SHE IS CONSIDERABLY
-    LARGER THAN THE OTHER ANTS AND DEVOTES HERSELF EXCLUSIVELY TO HER
-    TASK OF LAYING EGGS. THE KING ON THE OTHER HAND, NOT MUCH LARGER
-    THAN THE REST, IS IN COMMAND OF THE “WORKERS” AND THE SOLDIERS.]
-
-Countless similar events succeed one another, and ever the everyday
-monotony of the simple camp life has its delights.
-
-[Illustration: MY FELLOW TRAVELLER PRINCE LÖWENSTEIN, WHOSE TENT WAS
-ONCE ENTIRELY DESTROYED BY ANTS IN A SINGLE NIGHT.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    THE ANT-HILLS ARE SO STRONGLY BUILT AND SO HARD THAT THEY OFFER
-    AN EXTRAORDINARILY STRONG RESISTANCE TO ALL EFFORTS TO DESTROY
-    THEM BY PICK AND SHOVEL.]
-
-Day by day my menagerie increases. To-day it is a young lion I add to
-it, to-morrow a hyena, a jackal, a monkey, a marabou, geese, and other
-velt-dwellers, all of which I instal as members of my little community
-and try to become friends with. My efforts have sometimes been amply
-rewarded. Once during the early morning hours we discovered a large
-troop of baboons. It was cool: the cold, damp morning mist grew into a
-drizzling rain; the animals huddled up closely together for the sake of
-warmth. Later they came down to seek their food. Cautiously we posted
-ourselves as if we had not noticed the monkeys. But remembering their
-long sight, I organised a battue, which succeeded admirably and secured
-me several young ones. At first the comical creatures obstinately
-withstood all efforts to tame them. Soon, however, they got to
-recognise their attendant, and became attached to him. Unlike other
-species of monkeys, baboons are full of character. Like some dogs,
-they are devoted to their masters but antagonistic to other people.
-They show their dislike for strangers very clearly. I was always much
-touched, when I came back from a long tramp on the velt, to be met with
-outbursts of joy by my chained-up baboons. They recognised their master
-in the far distance, reared themselves on their hind legs, and gave
-demonstrations of joy in every possible way as they saw him approaching.
-
-[Illustration: “POSCHO! POSCHO!” MY CARAVAN-LEADER HANDING OUT
-PROVISIONS.]
-
-[Illustration: BEARER’S WIFE GETTING READY THE EVENING MEAL.]
-
-[Illustration: MY YOUNG BABOONS IN FRONT OF MY TENT.]
-
-[Illustration: YOUNG OSTRICHES.]
-
-[Illustration: MARABOU NESTS.]
-
-Sometimes, too, other inmates of my camp evinced their pleasure at
-my appearance. This was especially the case with a marabou which I
-had caught when fully grown. As he had been slightly hurt in the
-process of capture, I tended him myself most carefully, and experienced
-great satisfaction on his restoration to health. From the time of his
-recovery the bird was faithful to me, and did not leave the camp any
-more, although he was only caged at night-time! He attached himself to
-my headman, and tried to bite both men and beasts whom he considered
-as not to be trusted, and generally sat very solemnly in the vicinity
-of my camp and greeted me on my home-comings by wagging his head
-and flapping his wings. Such a clatter he made as he gravely rushed
-backwards and forwards! Not until I caressed him would he be quiet.
-After a time he began to build himself a nest under the shade of a bush
-quite close to my tent. The dimensions of this nest gradually increased
-in an extraordinary manner. This eyrie he defended to the utmost,
-and would not allow my blacks to go near it, or any of his animal
-companions. Great battles took place, but he always made his opponents
-take to their heels, and even the poor old donkey, if it happened to
-come his way. On the other hand, he was very friendly with my young
-rhinoceros. It was an extraordinary sight to see the rhinoceros with
-its friends, the goats and the solemn bird. Two fine Colobus monkeys,
-three young lions, young ostriches, geese, and various other creatures
-made up my little zoological garden. They all were good friends among
-themselves and with my tame hens, which used to prefer to lay their
-eggs in my tent and in those of the bearers. Sometimes I used to
-entrust some francolin eggs to these hens. (Hardly any of the
-many beautiful East African species of francolins have so far been
-brought alive to Europe.) Once I had for weeks the pleasure of seeing
-some beautiful yellow-throated francolins (_Pternistes leucosepus
-infuscatus_, Cab.) running about perfectly tame among the other animals
-in camp.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-ONE OF MY MARABOUS, NOW IN THE BERLIN ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, BUILT A GREAT
-NEST IN MY CAMP.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-TWO DENIZENS OF THE VELT WHO BECAME MEMBERS OF MY CAMP AND ARE NOW IN
-THE BERLIN ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A RATHER MIXED-UP PHOTOGRAPH! MY YOUNG RHINOCEROS, WITH HER TWO
-COMPANIONS THE GOAT AND THE KID.]
-
-I was often able to contemplate idyllic scenes among my quaint
-collection of animals. The behaviour of my baby rhinoceros interested
-me greatly. It was the pet of my caravan, and I was very proud of
-having reared it, for I had longed for two years for such a little
-creature, and had made many vain attempts to obtain one. Its friendship
-with two goats I have already mentioned in my previous book. They
-formed a strange trio. Very often the kid used the rhinoceros as a
-cushion, and all three were inseparable. The beast and the two goats
-often made little excursions out into the immediate neighbourhood
-of my camp. At these times they were carefully guarded by two of my
-most trustworthy people. The “rhino” was provided with its accustomed
-vegetable foods. When the little beast was in a good humour it would
-play with me like a dog, and would scamper about in the camp snorting
-in its own peculiar way. Such merry games alternated with hours of
-anxiety, during which I was obliged to give my foster-child food and
-medicine with my own hands, and to fight the chigoes (_Sarcopsylla
-penetrans_, L.), commonly called “jiggers,” those horrible tormentors
-which Africa has received from America.
-
-In the evening my flocks and herds of sheep, goats and cattle came
-home, and among them some gnus which I had been able to obtain from
-an Arab through the friendly help of Captain Merker. It reminded one
-of pictures of old patriarchal days to see the animals greet their
-expectant calves and kids. It was always interesting, too, to watch
-the skilful handling of the cattle by the Masai herdsmen. The cows in
-Africa all come from Asia, and belong to the zebu family. They will
-only give milk when their calves have first been allowed to suck. Only
-then can the cow be milked, and that with difficulty, whilst a second
-herdsman holds the calf for a while a little distance off. Thus it was
-I obtained, very sparingly at first, the necessary milk for my young
-rhinoceros. Some days there was a grand show of varied animal life.
-Cows, bullocks, sheep, goats, my rhinoceros, young lion-cubs, hyenas,
-jackals, servals and monkeys, hens, francolins and marabou, geese, and
-other frequenters of the velt were in the camp, some at liberty and
-some chained, which caused many little jealousies and much that was
-interesting to notice.
-
-My kitchen garden was invaded by tame geese and storks, which lived on
-the best of terms with the cook. It was irresistibly funny to see the
-sage old marabou acting as cook’s assistant, gravely crouching near
-him and watching all his movements. Very often the tame animals in my
-camp had visitors in the shape of wild storks and geese, which came and
-mixed among the others, so that often one could not distinguish which
-were wild and which tame. We could see all kinds of animals coming
-close to the camp. I have even followed the movements of rhinoceroses
-with my field-glasses for some time.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-MY RHINOCEROS AS SHE IS TO-DAY IN THE BERLIN “ZOO,” AND--]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
---AS SHE WAS IN MY VELT CAMP.]
-
-Some of my captives were not to be tamed at any price. We had a young
-hyena, for instance, which struggled obstinately with its chain.
-On the other hand, some hyenas, especially spotted ones, became so
-domesticated that they followed me about like dogs.
-
-A young lion which I had had in my camp for some time, and which had
-grown into quite a fine specimen, often made itself so noticeable at
-night that, as my watchman told me, it was answered by other lions
-from outside. This made it necessary to take active precautions for
-the night, and my menagerie was brought into the centre of my camp for
-greater safety.
-
-Many of the friendships which I formed with my _protégés_ have been
-kept up. My marabou still remembers me, and greets me with great joy
-in his cage in the Berlin Zoological Garden, much to the irritation
-of his neighbour in the cage next door. I have no need to avoid the
-grip of his powerful beak, which the keeper has learnt to fear. He has
-never used this weapon against me. In whatever dress I may approach him
-he always recognises me, and greets me with lively demonstrations of
-pleasure. Even the rhinoceros seems to recognise his one-time master,
-although one cannot be quite sure of this in so uncouth a creature.
-
-It is very difficult to know how to manage a rhinoceros. It was quite
-a long time before I succeeded in discovering its best diet. Young
-rhinoceroses almost always succumb in captivity, though seemingly
-so robust. We have not yet succeeded in bringing an elephant from
-German or British East Africa to Europe, or indeed any of the other
-animals, such as giraffes and buffaloes and antelopes, which live in
-the same districts. It appears that it is just these interesting wild
-animals which are the most difficult to accustom to captivity and to
-keep alive. The attempt to bring home alive a couple of the wonderful
-Kilimanjaro Colobus apes (_Colobus caudatus_, Thos.) resulted in one of
-the monkeys dying a few days after my arrival; the other lived for two
-years only, and was the sole specimen of its kind ever seen in Europe.
-Every zoologist and lover of animals who goes into the colonies has a
-wide field of activity open before him in this respect. If only more
-people could be made to take an interest in these things we might buoy
-ourselves up with the hope of obtaining and keeping some of the best
-and rarest specimens of African animal life, perhaps even a full-grown
-gorilla from the West Coast--perhaps even an Okapi!
-
-I was only able to keep my little menagerie together for a few weeks at
-a time, as I had to be constantly setting out on fresh expeditions. On
-these occasions I was accustomed to leave the animals in some village
-under the care of trustworthy blacks, so that I could take them again
-on my return journey to the coast. The weeks and months I spent in camp
-with my animals were a great source of pleasure to me. At night-time
-there were occasions when “rhinos” and “hippos” paid us visits, as
-could be plainly seen by the tracks found the next morning.[18]
-Hyenas and jackals came very often, and even lions sometimes came to
-within a short distance of the camp. Thus my zoological garden, in
-spite of its size, could well boast of being, so to speak, the most
-_primitive_ in the world.
-
-[Illustration: HOW MY CAPTIVE YOUNG “RHINO” WAS CARRIED TO CAMP.]
-
-[Illustration: CARRYING A DEAD LEOPARD, TO AN ACCOMPANIMENT OF
-IMPROVISED SONGS.]
-
-[Illustration: “FATIMA” (AS I CHRISTENED MY “RHINO”) AND HER TWO
-COMPANIONS ON THEIR WAY TO THE COAST.]
-
-[Illustration: A YOUNG HYENA, WHICH I HAD EXTRACTED FROM ITS LAIR,
-RESISTED AT FIRST ALL EFFORTS AT TAMING IT.]
-
-But we had our anxious moments. Death levied its toll among my people,
-and the continual rumours of uprisings and attacks from outside gave
-plenty to talk about during the whole day, and often far on into the
-night over the camp-fire. When one of these charming African moonlit
-nights had set in over my homestead, when the noise of the bearers
-with their chatter and clatter had ceased, and my work, too, was done,
-then I used to sit awhile in front of the flickering flames and think.
-Or I would wander from fire to fire to exchange a few words with my
-watchmen, to learn their news and their wishes and to ask much that I
-wanted to know. This is the hour when men are most communicative, and
-unless there be urgent need of sleep the conversation may continue far
-into the night.
-
-There is something strangely beautiful about those nights in the
-wilderness. My thoughts go back to an encampment I once made at the
-foot of the volcanic mountain of Gelei, close to a picturesque rocky
-gorge, in the depths of which was a small stream--a mere trickle during
-the hot weather. Its source lay in the midst of an extensive acacia
-wood, which tailed off on one side into the bare, open “boga,” while
-on the other it became merged in a dense thicket of euphorbia trees,
-creepers, and elelescho bushes, impenetrable to men but affording a
-refuge to animals, even to elephants. On the day before I had noted the
-fact that Masai warriors had recently encamped in the neighbourhood,
-with cattle which they had got hold of on a marauding expedition (and
-some of which they had here slaughtered), and that with their booty
-they had betaken themselves over the English frontier. It was quite
-on the cards that roaming young Masai warriors would suddenly turn
-up while I was there. It was several days’ journey to the nearest
-inhabited region. For weeks together one would see no human soul save
-for a nomadic hunter every now and again.
-
-The great barren wilderness, which then in the dry season could boast
-of no verdure save the evergreen Hunger-plant, so well suited to the
-arid velt; the romantic site of my camp; the beautiful moonlight
-night, darkened over from time to time by great masses of clouds,
-heralding the approach of rain; the dangers lurking all around:
-everything conspired to produce a wonderful effect upon the mind. The
-night had come upon us silently, mysteriously, jet-black. Before the
-moon rose, one’s fancy foreshadowed some sudden incursion into the
-death-like darkness, the bodeful silence. There was something weird and
-unnatural about the stillness--it suggested the calm before the storm.
-Faint rustlings and cracklings and voices inaudible by day now made
-themselves heard. The world of the little living things came by its
-own, and crackled and rustled among plants and branches and reeds and
-grass. Hark! Is that the sound of a cockchafer or a mouse, or is it the
-footstep of a foe?... Even within my tent there are evidences
-of life. Rats bestir themselves upon their daring enterprises, to
-meet their end, here and there, in my traps. Emin Pasha has told us
-how he experienced the same kind of thing. How dormice and beautiful
-Sterkulien made their home in his camp, gleefully climbing up and
-down the canvas of his tent during the night--doubtless gazing at the
-strange white man with their great, dark, wide-open eyes, as they did
-at me.... Save for these sounds there is complete stillness, broken
-only by the voice of the night-jar, mournful and monotonous, as it
-wings its eerie, noiseless flight in and out of the firelight and round
-and round the camp.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-VULTURES ON THE WING.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-VULTURES HOVERING OVER THE CARCASE OF A GNU WHICH HAD BEEN KILLED BY A
-LION.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-VULTURES MOVING AWAY FROM A CARCASE, STARTLED AT MY APPROACH. (WHEN
-FIGHTING OVER A CARCASE, THEY GIVE OUT A HISSING KIND Of SOUND.)]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-MY PELICANS (_TANTALUS IBIS_, L.), WHICH AFTERWARDS TOOK UP THEIR ABODE
-IN THE BERLIN ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS.]
-
-[Illustration: A SIESTA IN CAMP. THE MIDDAY HOUR.]
-
-Beyond the glow of the camp-fire our eyes cannot travel--we cannot see
-what is happening outside the camp, even quite close at hand. This
-intensifies one’s feeling of insecurity, for I know well how suddenly
-and with what lightning speed the great felines manage their attacks.
-It is in just such circumstances that so many men fall victims to
-lion and leopard. One evening a leopard will snatch a small dog from
-your feet, the next it will carry off one of the native women before
-the eyes of the whole population of your camp. You must have had such
-things happen to you, or hear of them from eye-witnesses, to realise
-the danger.
-
-Near my tent stand two hoary old trees all hung with creepers. In the
-uncertain firelight they seem to be a-quiver with life, and they throw
-phantom-like shadows. I hear the soft footsteps of the watch--they
-recall me to actualities. Now the moon emerges, and suddenly sheds its
-brilliant radiance over the entire velt. It is like the withdrawing of
-a pall. My thoughts wander away upon the moonbeams, and travel on and
-on, over land and sea, like homing birds.... The reader who would steep
-himself in the beauty and strangeness of this African camp-life should
-turn to the pages of that splendid work _Caput Nili_, by my friend
-Richard Kandt. There he will find it all described by a master-hand
-in a series of exquisite nature-pictures. In language full of poetic
-beauty he gives us the very soul of the wilderness. These studies and
-sketches, from the pen of the man who discovered the sources of the
-Nile, are a veritable work of art. It is easier for the nature-lover to
-give himself up to the charms of this African solitude than to
-set them forth adequately in words.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A STRANGE FRIENDSHIP SPRANG UP BETWEEN A SMALL APE AND A GOSHAWK THAT
-I HAD AT HOME AT AN EARLIER DATE. THE APE USED OFTEN TO PULL THE BIRD
-ABOUT PLAYFULLY, WHILE TWO STORKS LOOKED ON WITH INTEREST.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-“FATIMA” PROWLING ROUND. SHE WAS ON PARTICULARLY GOOD TERMS WITH THE
-MARABOU.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-CARRYING A FINE LEOPARD, WEIGHING 145 POUNDS, INTO CAMP. IT HAD BEEN
-TRAPPED.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    THE BEARERS ALWAYS LIKE TO “KILL” THE GAME IN ACCORDANCE WITH
-    MOHAMMEDAN RITES, EVEN WHEN DEATH HAS ALREADY BEEN ENSURED BY
-    THE HUNTERS AND HAS BEGUN TO SET IN. WHEN THESE RITES CANNOT BE
-    FULFILLED, THEY WILL SOMETIMES REFUSE TO EAT THE FLESH.]
-
-[Illustration: WHILE THE GAME IS BEING CUT UP, THE NATIVES OFTEN HAVE
-RECOURSE TO INNOCENT HORSEPLAY BY WAY OF VENTING THEIR HIGH SPIRITS.]
-
-Wonderful, indeed, is the beauty of those African moonlight nights.
-Their radiant splendour is a thing never to be forgotten. How taint and
-faded in comparison seem our moonlight nights at home!
-
-[Illustration: A TRAPPED LEOPARD.]
-
-Through the camp, past the smouldering and flickering fires, the Askari
-sentry wanders noiselessly. He is a man well on in years--a tried man
-who has often been with me before. Years ago he vowed he would never
-again return to the wilderness with a “Safari,” yet every time I
-revisit Africa the spell of the wild has come over him anew, and he has
-been unable to resist.
-
-He comes to me now and says, as he has had so often to say before:
-“Master, do you hear the lions yonder in the distance?” And he makes
-his way towards the great fire in the centre of the camp and throws
-some fresh logs upon it. Flames spring up, blazing and flickering in
-the moonlight.
-
-[Illustration: THE BABOON AND THE LITTLE BLACK LADY.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-MOONLIGHT ON THE VELT.]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: A FOWL OF THE VELT (_PTEROCLES GUTTURALIS SATURATIOR_,
-Hart).]
-
-XV
-
-Night Photography under Difficulties
-
-
-There is a notion prevalent, due to superficial observers, that there
-are certain drinking-places to which the wild animals are bound to come
-to quench their thirst, in all circumstances, during the hot season.
-Were this so the animals would have ceased ere now to exist. The
-poisoned arrow of the native, or the rifle of the white man, would long
-since have exterminated them. It is the case, however, that you can
-count upon finding game at specific drinking-places in the hot weather
-under certain circumstances, though much depends upon the direction of
-the wind and other things. The appearance of the larger beasts of prey
-by the waterside is enough, for instance, to make the others keep their
-distance for a considerable time.
-
-When I have encamped in such localities it has generally been with a
-view to securing specimens of rare birds, and apart from this I have
-confined myself to making observations of the life of the animals. Very
-large bull-elephants were the only kind of big game that I had any mind
-to shoot, for I was never at a loss for other kinds. Elephants roam
-about in the hot season from one watering-place to another, sometimes
-covering great distances. They know the danger they run in frequenting
-any one particular watering-place too regularly. This is true of herds
-of other animals as well.
-
-These watering-places are, of course, very productive to the natives,
-who make no account of time and who spread themselves out over a number
-of them during the hot weather, thus multiplying their chances. But the
-havoc worked among the wild animals by their poisoned arrows or the
-other methods of hunting which they practise, when they have not taken
-to powder and shot, is not serious. They have been hunting in this way
-since prehistoric ages, and yet have been able to hand over the animal
-kingdom to us Europeans in all the fulness and abundance that have
-aroused our wonder and admiration wherever we have set foot for the
-first time.
-
-In the course of my last journey I encamped for the second time at the
-foot of the Donje-Erok mountain (the circuit of which is a two-days’
-march), to the north-west of Kilimanjaro. The region had been well
-known to me since 1899. Previously to then it had been traversed only
-by Count Teleki’s expedition. His comrade, the well-known geographer
-Ritter von Höhnel, had marked its outlines on the map. No one, however,
-had penetrated into the interior, and here a wonderful field offered
-itself to the sportsman and explorer. A number of small streams take
-their rise on the Donje-Erok. In the dry weather these are speedily
-absorbed by the sun-dried soil of the velt, but in the wet season
-they have quite a long course, and combine to form a series of small
-swamps. When these have gradually begun to dry and have come to be
-mere stretches of blackish mud, they reveal the tracks of the herds
-of animals that have waded through them, elephants and rhinoceroses
-especially--mighty autographs imprinted like Runic letters upon wax.
-
-[Illustration: A RIVER-HORSE RESORT.]
-
-In the dry season great numbers of animals made always for a
-source--very speedily dried up--to the south of the mountain. It was in
-this vicinity that I proposed to secure my pictures of wild life.
-
-My caravan was very much on the _qui vive_ when at last, after a long
-march, we were able to strike camp. We had been attacked by a band of
-Masai warriors during the night and had driven them off. It was only
-natural, therefore, that we should exercise some caution. But our
-fatigue overcame all anxiety as to another attack. We had made a long
-forced march, and were worn out with our exertions and our sufferings
-from thirst and the heat. Some of the bearers, succumbing under the
-weight of their burdens, had remained behind. We had started on the
-previous morning, each of us provided as well as was practicable with
-water, and had marched until dark, passing the night waterless and
-pressing on at daybreak. It was absolutely essential now to get to
-a watering-place, so we put out all our efforts, just succeeding in
-reaching our goal after nightfall. This march was the more exhausting
-in that we had had only two hours’ sleep before the fray with the
-Masai. The bearers we had been obliged to leave behind were afterwards
-brought into camp safely by a relief party.
-
-On exploring our vicinity next morning we found that our camp,
-which was to some degree safeguarded by a thorn-fence--a so-called
-“boma”--adjoined several earlier camps of native elephant-hunters,
-protected by strong palisades: a thing that had often happened to us
-before. These camps are to be recognised by the empty powder-casks left
-about or by the erection somewhere near of a fetich or charm to ward
-off evil, or something of the kind. It is only the natives who use
-firearms that have resort to such practices. So far as I know neither
-the Wakamba nor the Wandorobo are addicted to them. In this particular
-case the charm took the shape of an arrangement of large snail-shells
-in the midst of a small enclosure four feet square. That it proved
-efficacious was suggested by the spectacle of the skulls and remains
-of some twenty recently killed rhinoceroses within a few paces of the
-camp.... I had met with just the same state of things in 1900. These
-“sanctioned” elephant-hunters--or, to use the recognised term, these
-“trustworthy Fundi”--are an absolute pest. The arch exterminator of the
-elephants in the Kilimanjaro region was Schundi, the former slave of
-a Kavirondo chief. Schundi, in his capacity as a political agent and
-licensed elephant-hunter, scoured the entire country with his men from
-1893 to 1900.[19]
-
-[Illustration: ONE OF THE PEAKS OF DONJE-EROK, IN THE VICINITY OF
-KILIMANJARO.]
-
-In the heart of the thicket we came suddenly upon a quite recent camp
-of native hunters of some kind--not Wandorobo, we judged, from utensils
-which they left behind, of a sort the Wandorobo never use. I was aware
-that other tribes had taken to hunting the animals in this region,
-the Masai themselves setting about it quite in the Wandorobo fashion.
-Our chief “find” in the camp, however, was a collection of some forty
-zebra-hides, quite freshly secured, and about the same number of hides
-of gnus as well as others of smaller game. Most of these skins were
-stretched out on the ground to dry, fixed with pegs. Probably the
-fugitives had taken a number of others away with them. I came to the
-conclusion that the natives were of the class that hunt on behalf of
-Indian, Greek, and other traders--a class far too numerous nowadays.
-The traders pay them very little for their labours, and themselves make
-huge profits out of it all.
-
-I took possession of the skins, prepared the best of them very
-thoroughly and carefully, and then sent them to Moschi, for despatch
-to the Berlin Museum. This task occupied me for two days, but I
-undertook it with gusto, for I knew that by reason of the variety of
-species of zebras and gnus frequenting this region, this big collection
-of skins was of great scientific value. And I rejoiced the more
-over my treasure-trove in that it exempted me from shooting any more
-zebras or gnus myself. But my calculations were all to be upset. On my
-notification to the station that I had not bagged the animals myself,
-but had found them lying about in a bush-camp where they had been
-abandoned by nomadic native hunters, it was decided that they could not
-be recognised as my property without further proceedings. Eventually
-the matter was decided in my favour by a governmental decree, but
-in the meantime the skins were considerably damaged by insects and
-otherwise. Could I have foreseen this, I should not have been at the
-trouble and serious expense of saving them, but should have left them
-as a welcome feast to the hyenas and jackals. What I was still able to
-save out of the lot I sent later to the Berlin Museum.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-WHEN STARTING ON A LONG “TELEKESA-MARCH”--A MARCH OF MORE THAN
-TWENTY-FOUR HOURS BEFORE REACHING THE NEXT WATERING-PLACE--MY MEN
-PROVIDED THEMSELVES WITH AS MUCH WATER AS THEY COULD CARRY.]
-
-[Illustration: VULTURES.]
-
-Near some of the drinking-places along the river I found the cleverly
-contrived reed-shelters behind which the natives take refuge. The
-immense numbers of vultures and jackals and hyenas showed that these
-gluttonous creatures had found an abundance of provender, especially
-near the deserted camp. The vultures, which were of various species,
-came down from their perches on the trees and settled on the ground
-quite near us. It was brooding-time for some of the larger species, and
-presently I found a great number of their nests with young birds in
-them. It was very interesting to watch the old birds and their young
-together.
-
-It took me about a week to decide on the spots best suited for my
-flashlight photographs. After a good deal of really hard work, and
-after any number of unsuccessful efforts, I was at last satisfied that
-my three cameras were so placed as to promise good results if I had any
-luck. But the fates seemed against me. There were hundreds of different
-drinking-places along the course of the stream, and with so great a
-choice at their disposal the animals appeared to give my camera a wide
-berth.
-
-Some days later we had an unpleasant surprise. One of my Askaris had
-gone at daybreak, as was his custom, to examine one of my jackal traps.
-Suddenly we heard the sound of shots in the direction of the trap,
-about twenty minutes’ walk from the camp. As in view of my strict
-orders against shooting at game there could be no question of this, we
-at once assumed that we had to reckon with an attack by natives. In a
-trice I had all my arrangements made. Dividing my armed followers
-into two sections, I set out instantly with one of them in the
-direction of the Askari, leaving the other with Orgeich to defend the
-camp.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS OF HYENAS (_HYÆNA SCHILLINGSI_, Mtsch.) AND
-JACKALS.]
-
-What had happened? It was the old story, so familiar to all experienced
-travellers, and showing how easily one may be drawn into a fight, yet
-how easily trouble may be avoided if one takes the right line. My
-Askari, normally a very steady and reliable man who had been in the
-service of the Government, had been startled by the sudden apparition
-right in front of him of a great band of Masai warriors armed with
-spears. They had raised their spears, no doubt instinctively, at the
-sight of the rifle-bearing soldier. He, for his part, and his two
-unarmed comrades, jumped simultaneously to the conclusion that these
-were the same Masai who had previously attacked us. He decided at once
-to fire. In an instant the Masai vanished in every direction.
-
-It was not a laughing matter. There had been recent fights in the
-neighbourhood of my camp between Masai warriors and the inhabitants of
-the Uferi district--the remains of men who had been killed in these
-frays bore witness to the truth of what my guides had told me about
-them. And it was not long since certain European cattle-dealers, at a
-spot some two days’ journey farther on, had been murdered by the Masai.
-These facts, taken in connection with the night-attack, made us realise
-the need of caution.
-
-On reaching the scene of the incident, I ascertained that a great band
-of Masai, accompanied by their wives, had been seen on the previous
-evening in the neighbourhood of the stream, and that they had encamped
-for the night in a mouldering old kraal in the thorn-thicket, and it
-was while slumbering peacefully in this that they were disturbed by my
-Askari. Scattered all over the place were goods and chattels of various
-descriptions which they had left behind them in their hasty flight,
-and which I now had carefully collected together. From their nature I
-concluded that the Masai were making for some place at a considerable
-distance, and that there was, therefore, no danger of unpleasant
-consequences. I returned to my camp to reassure my people, and at once
-got some of my Masai friends, who had been with me for a long time, to
-go after the fugitives and bring them back. That was the only way to
-effect an understanding--any other messengers would have failed in the
-mission.
-
-Towards midday my Masai returned to camp with some thirty of the
-spear-armed warriors and a number of their women-folk. I gave them
-back their belongings, together with a present by way of _amende_ for
-their fright. This they accepted with equanimity after the manner of
-all natives. Then they took their departure, the incident being thus
-happily terminated without bloodshed.
-
-Curiously enough, Orgeich had had a somewhat similar encounter with
-Masai a short time before. He had been for a turn in the neighbourhood
-of the camp, and was coming back in the dark along a rhinoceros-track.
-When he had got to within a quarter of an hour’s walk of the camp,
-there was a sudden clatter right in front of him, and in the uncertain
-moonlight he descried a band of armed Masai. Remembering the recent
-night-encounter he instantly raised his rifle to fire. But the veteran
-soldier had self-control enough to resist the impulse, and in this case
-also there were no ill consequences. But, as he still continues to
-declare, it was a near thing.
-
-[Illustration: MY NIGHT-APPARATUS IN POSITION, READY TO WORK.]
-
-Such incidents, it will be recognised, can very easily lead to serious
-results.
-
-Later I was to have an unpleasant experience in regard to natives. A
-band of nomadic hunters, perhaps those who had encamped where I found
-the zebra-skins, had “gone for” two of my cameras. They had taken away
-all those parts of them that could be of any use to them, and left
-them of course quite useless to me. It is noteworthy that they did not
-smash them to pieces, as Europeans might have done. They had merely
-detached the metal portions and others which they could turn to some
-account. This loss was, however, very annoying to me, and I found it
-necessary to establish two relays of men on guard to look after the
-sole remaining apparatus throughout the day.
-
-[Illustration: A PET OF THE CARAVAN.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    A BAOBAB (_ADANSONIA DIGITATA_). THESE TREES ARE OFTEN BELIEVED
-    BY THE NATIVES TO BE INHABITED BY GHOSTS. THEY USED TO COME INTO
-    THE STORIES TOLD BY MY FOLLOWERS.]
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: THE FIRST FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPH WITH WHICH I HAD ANY
-MEASURE OF SUCCESS! A MONGOOSE MAY BE JUST GUESSED AT UNDER THE
-THORN-BRANCH.]
-
-XVI
-
-Photography by Day and by Night
-
-
-There is an old German recipe for the catching of a lion: you put the
-Sahara through a sieve--and behold the King of Beasts!
-
-The photographing of lions is not to be managed so easily. I am always
-being asked how I took my photographs. I shall try to give an answer in
-the following pages.
-
-Before _With Flashlight and Rifle_ was published, the only successful
-photographs taken by night that were known to me were some few
-excellent pictures of certain species of American deer, secured by
-an enthusiastic sportsman (a legal official in the service of the
-Government of the United States) after years of untiring effort.
-After any number of fruitless attempts, this gentleman contrived to
-photograph these animals grazing by night near the banks of a river
-down which he drifted in a boat. He set up a row of cameras in the
-bow of his craft, and when it passed close to the deer standing in the
-water, he let his flashlight flame out, and in this way produced in the
-course of ten years or so--a number of very interesting photographic
-studies, which made his name well known in his own country and which
-won him a gold medal at a Paris Exhibition, where his work aroused
-much attention. I was familiar also with the “telephoto” pictures
-which Lord Delamere brought home from East Africa.[20] Those of Mr.
-Edward North Buxton were published first in 1902, so far as I know. I
-myself, I should explain, do not profess to be a complete master of
-the photographer’s art. Indeed, I rather rejoice in my ignorance of
-many of the inner secrets of the craft known only to experts, because
-I believe it has helped me to get a certain character into my pictures
-which would perhaps have eluded one whose mind was taken up with all
-the difficulties involved in the task.
-
-At first sight the photographing of animals may seem a simple enough
-matter, but if we look at the photographs taken in zoological gardens
-or in menageries or game reservations, or photographs taken during the
-winter at spots to which the animals have had to come for food, or at
-the various touched-up photographs one sees, we shall find that there
-are very few of any real worth from the standpoint of the naturalist.
-Whoever would take photographs of value should take care that they be
-in no way altered or touched up. Touched-up photographs are never
-to be trusted.
-
-[Illustration: THE APPARATUS WHICH I FIRST USED FOR MY
-NIGHT-PHOTOGRAPHS, WITH THE SHUTTER KEPT OPEN (_see_ p. 687).]
-
-[Illustration: THE GOERZ-SCHILLINGS NIGHT-APPARATUS.]
-
-The story of my progress in the art of animal photography is soon told.
-
-In 1896 and 1897 I was not adequately equipped, and I took only a few
-photographs, all by daylight.
-
-After going through a careful course of instruction in Kiesling’s
-Photographic Institution, I did not succeed in entirely satisfying
-myself with the daylight photographs I took on my second expedition
-of 1899-1900. It was impossible at that time to photograph objects
-at great distances, the telephoto lens not yet carrying far enough.
-My efforts to photograph the animals by night proved entirely
-fruitless, for one reason because the flashlight apparatus would
-not work. It was exasperating to find that my heavy and expensive
-“accumulators”--procured after consultation with technical
-experts--refused to act, and I remember vividly how I flung them out
-into the middle of a river! I achieved but one single success at this
-period with a self-acting apparatus, namely the photograph of two
-vultures contending over carrion, here reproduced; one of them has been
-feeding, and the other is just about to assert its right to part of
-the meal. The attitudes of the two birds are very interesting, and one
-feels that it would have been very difficult for a painter to have put
-them on record. But all my other attempts failed, as I have said, from
-technical causes, and I had to content myself for the most part with
-photographing the animals I hunted, though I did succeed in getting
-pictures of a waterbuck and a giraffe at which I had not shot. My
-photographs won so much approval from experts on my return home that I
-was encouraged to go further in this direction.
-
-But what difficulties I had to overcome! So far back as the year 1863 a
-German explorer, Professor Fritsch, now a member of the Privy Council,
-had set about the task of photographing wild animals in South Africa.
-Those were the days of wet collodion plates, and it is really wonderful
-how Professor Fritsch managed to cope with all the difficulties he had
-to face so far from all possibility of assistance. He succeeded in the
-course of his expedition in photographing an African wild animal upon
-a dry plate for the first time on record. By his kindness I am enabled
-to reproduce this historical picture here--it is a thing of real value.
-It is the photograph of an eland, at that time an animal often met with
-in Cape Colony, where game of all kinds has now been almost completely
-exterminated. Professor Fritsch’s account of his experiences should
-be heard for one to form any notion of the wealth of animal life that
-then adorned the South African velt. His photographs are especially
-interesting as the first of their kind. It was not until nearly forty
-years later that the English sportsmen already mentioned and I myself
-embarked systematically upon similar enterprises.
-
-On my third expedition in 1902 I tried to photograph with two telephoto
-cameras which had been placed at my disposal by the Goerz Optical
-Institute. Without attempting to explain the complicated mechanism
-of these apparatus--the idea of which came first to English
-travellers--I may say that they are beset with difficulties. They
-require a long exposure, and are best suited, therefore, for stationary
-objects. If you wish to photograph animals in motion, you must learn
-to expose your negative long enough to secure a clear impression, yet
-not so long as to make the moving animals come out quite blurred. I
-am strongly of opinion that it is not of much advantage to make out a
-table of calculations as to the time of exposure. Experience alone
-can enable you to judge what exposure to allow. When you have got your
-shutter to the correct speed and chosen the correct diaphragm for your
-lens, you must get into the way of using the camera as quickly and
-deftly as your rifle.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-AUTOMATICALLY TAKEN PHOTOGRAPH OF TWO VULTURES ENGAGING IN A CONTEST
-OVER CARRION.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    THE FIRST DRY-PLATE PHOTOGRAPH, PROBABLY, EVER TAKEN IN THE
-    AFRICAN DESERT. THE WORK OF ONE OF THE OLDEST OF AFRICAN
-    EXPLORERS, PROFESSOR FRITSCH, IT REPRESENTS AN ELAND WHICH HE HAD
-    KILLED--A SPECIES THEN FREQUENTLY MET WITH IN CAPE COLONY.]
-
-In this way, just as in shooting, you will learn to allow for the
-movements of the object you are aiming at--you will let your camera
-move accordingly. This needs a lot of practice. At the period when I
-was using the Goerz apparatus, a large number of similar cameras of all
-sizes were returned to the manufactory by practical photographers as
-unuseable. This shows how difficult it is to form any opinion as to the
-possibilities of the telephoto lens without going in for thorough and
-repeated experiments.
-
-It is only on rare occasions that you are able to use a stand-camera
-for photographing objects at a distance. In most cases you must
-shoulder your photographic gun, and it may be easily imagined what
-dexterity is required for its proper management. In following up
-the moving object with your lens you inevitably make the background
-something of a blur. You are apt at the same time to under-expose. The
-change of diaphragm and the modification of the speed of the shutter
-involve many failures. The telephoto lens has this advantage, however,
-that you can generally get good results with it at a hundred paces. In
-the case of birds on the wing, either rising or flying past you, you
-have to get into the way of reckoning the distance--a difficult matter.
-Of course you must always have the sun more or less behind you. The
-conditions of the atmosphere in the tropics--the shimmering waves of
-light that rise up out of the scorched soil, for instance--make it
-peculiarly hard to calculate the time of exposure, and many photographs
-turn out failures which you have felt quite sure of having taken
-properly. This is specially disappointing in the case of animals that
-you may never have another opportunity of photographing. In such cases
-I make a practice of giving as many exposures as possible, in the hope
-of one or other of them turning out right.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-THIS PHOTOGRAPH BEARS WITNESS TO THE DESIRABILITY OF HAVING PERFECTED
-FILMS TO WORK WITH; FOR GLASSES PLATES ARE APT TO BREAK AND GOOD
-PICTURES TO BE QUITE SPOILT IN CONSEQUENCE.]
-
-You often miss splendid chances, of course, simply through not having
-your camera at hand. A few moments’ delay may lose you an opportunity
-that will never come to you again. Then, again, you are just as apt
-in Africa as elsewhere to make the mistakes so well known to all
-photographers--wrong focussing, using the same plate twice, not getting
-your objects properly on the plate, etc. Nor can you always avoid
-having a tree or bush or branch between you and the animal you want to
-photograph. These things are often enough to quite spoil your picture.
-The weight of the camera, too, is in itself a hindrance. It is not
-every one who can handle a 13 × 18-cm. telephoto camera. Even a 9 ×
-12-cm. is heavy enough. It must be remembered that on one’s journeyings
-through the wilderness it is almost as much as one can do to carry with
-one a sufficient supply of water--that most essential thing of all. And
-one has to be most careful of the apparatus, for mischances may occur
-at any moment.
-
-Though my experiences and those of others will have had the effect of
-smoothing the way for all who go photographing in future in Equatorial
-Africa, still, hunting with the camera will remain a much more
-difficult thing than hunting with the rifle. The practised shot needs
-only a fraction of a second to bring down his game--often he scarcely
-even sees it, and fires at it through dense shrubs or bushes, whereas
-the photographer can achieve nothing until he has contrived to secure
-a combination of favourable conditions, and he wants in many cases to
-“bring down” not just one animal, but a whole herd. His most tempting
-chances come to him very often when he is unprepared. That is why I
-insist upon the desirability of his shouldering a camera like a gun.
-At short range you can secure wonderful pictures even with an ordinary
-small hand-camera, but for this kind of work you must of course have
-good nerves.... It was in this way I took the photographs of the
-rhinoceroses in the pool reproduced in _With Flashlight and Rifle_,
-some of the best I ever secured. One of these, taken at a distance
-of fifteen or twenty paces, shows the “rhino,” not yet hit, rushing
-down upon Orgeich and me. In another instant I had thrown my little
-hand-camera to the ground, and just managed to get a bullet into him in
-the nick of time. He swerved to one side and made off into the thicket,
-where I eventually secured him. He is now to be seen in the Munich
-Museum.
-
-A fruitful source of disillusionment lies in the fact that the plates
-are sensitive to the light to a degree so different from our eyes. As
-the blue and violet rays chiefly act upon them, they cannot render the
-real effects of colouring. It is greatly to be desired that we should
-manage to perfect orthochromatic plates, sensitive to green, yellow and
-red rays of light. I myself have been unable to secure good results
-with orthochromatic plates with the telephoto lens, as I have found
-them always too little sensitive to white light for instantaneous work.
-Latterly there has been produced a new kind of panchromatic plate which
-only needs an exposure of one-fiftieth part of a second, and I would
-strongly recommend its use for the photographing of animals for this
-reason.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    A PLATE WHICH I EXPOSED TWICE BY MISTAKE--SUCH MISTAKES WILL
-    HAPPEN SOMETIMES, HOWEVER CAREFUL ONE MAY BE. IN ADDITION TO THE
-    GNUS AND ZEBRAS WHICH STAND OUT CLEARLY IN THE PICTURE, FAINT
-    OUTLINES OF HARTEBEESTS (ON A SMALLER SCALE) MAY BE DESCRIED.]
-
-In the animal pictures of the Munich painter Zügel, we see admirably
-rendered all the many shades of colouring we note, under different
-conditions, close at hand or far away, when we have the actual wild
-life before our eyes. There we note that the upper part of the animal’s
-body often reflects so strongly the cold blue of the sky that its own
-colouring is, as it were, cancelled, or at least very greatly modified.
-We note, too, that an animal in reality reddish-brown in colour becomes
-violet owing to the blue in the atmosphere. Refinements of form and
-hue are lost in the glare of the sun, and only the stronger outlines
-and more pronounced colours assert themselves. Sometimes the sun’s
-rays, reflected from the animals’ skins, produce the effect of glowing
-patches of light, sometimes they are absorbed; sometimes the animals
-look quite black, sometimes absolutely white. Photographs of animals
-taken under such conditions do not, of course, give a good idea of the
-normal colouring of the animals. The success of a photograph depends,
-therefore, very largely upon the nature of the light.
-
-For an effective picture you need to have a group of animals either
-standing still or in motion, and this you can very seldom get at close
-quarters, though now and again you may happen upon them standing under
-trees; and when this occurs you may hope for good results, because the
-way in which the blue rays of light are reflected from the trees has a
-favourable effect upon the bromide-silver plates.
-
-While it is true that there can be nothing more disappointing than
-the discovery, when developing one’s photographs of animals in a
-country like Africa, that negatives of which one had great hopes are
-no good, this very possibility adds to the fascination of the work,
-and is, as it were, a link between the sport and that of our fathers
-and grandfathers. The kind of rifle-shooting we go in for nowadays
-has nothing in common with that of the hunter who was dependent upon
-a single bullet the effect of which he could only get to make sure of
-after long experience. To the true sportsman the camera is the best
-substitute for the old-fashioned gun, inasmuch as it involves very much
-the same degree of difficulty and danger.
-
-How keenly I regret that I had not the advantage from the first of
-the perfected photographic apparatus that has come into existence as
-the result of long experience! I look back with regret upon the many
-failures I experienced in my earlier efforts, the excitement of the
-moment often causing me to neglect some necessary precaution. Lions,
-rhinoceroses, hippopotami, giraffes, and antelopes innumerable--nearly
-all my attempts to photograph them were fruitless. When I came to
-develop the negatives at night-time I would find a blurred suggestion
-of the objects I had seen so distinctly before me in the daylight,
-or else, owing to some mishap, an absolute blank. All the greater was
-my joy when on rare occasions I did succeed in getting such pictures as
-those of the rhinoceroses already referred to.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-A TELEPHOTOGRAPH OF OSTRICHES, SCARCELY DISCERNIBLE TO THE LEFT OF THE
-PICTURE.]
-
-I made it a practice to develop at night in my tent, as soon as I
-possibly could, all negatives that I thought at all likely to be
-successful. The only negatives I sent to Europe were duplicates of
-those which I had already developed myself. At home, of course, the
-developing can be done much more carefully. No one who has not had the
-experience can realise what it means to have to develop plates in the
-heat and damp of Equatorial Africa and with the kind of water at one’s
-disposal there. When I found that my negatives were successful, not
-content with developing them, I always made a number of bromide-silver
-copies of them. These were put away in separate cases and the original
-was despatched home as soon as possible. If this original negative got
-lost _en route_, I was almost sure of having one of the copies, even if
-some of the packing-cases got lost also.
-
-The photographer can always console himself with the reflection, in
-the midst of all his hardships and mishaps, that the pictures he does
-succeed in taking count for more than so many head of game.
-
-It is very interesting to note that my photographs of birds on the
-wing have put so many people, especially painters, in mind of the work
-of Japanese artists. Doflein, in his book _Ostasienfahrt_, speaks as
-follows of the peculiar faculty the Japanese have in this field of art.
-“The Japanese animal painters,” he says, “show a more highly developed
-power of observing nature than that of their Western fellow-workers.
-They render the swift, sudden motion of animals with astonishing
-dexterity.... They had learned to see and reproduce them correctly
-before the coming of instantaneous photography.... The Japanese seem to
-have a very highly developed nervous organism. Their art is evidence
-of this, no less than their methods of warfare--their effective use of
-their guns at sea, for instance.”
-
-I would add to this my own opinion that an inferior shot would have no
-success whatever with a telephoto lens. You must have learnt to stalk
-your quarry warily--this is as important as a steady hand. A practised
-shot who knows how to get within range of the animals is peculiarly
-well fitted for the work. The least twitch at the moment of taking the
-photograph ruins everything, for even in the case of moving objects the
-exposure is not what can be accurately called instantaneous, owing to
-the peculiarity of the lens.
-
-I have already expressed my view that this non-instantaneous exposure
-(when not too prolonged) imparts a certain softness and vagueness
-to the photograph which give it an artistic effect. It gives scope
-also for the personal taste and preferences of the operator. When
-taken against the horizon photographs require less exposure than with
-the velt for background. The dark green of the trees and shrubs no
-less than the red laterite soil offering unfavourable backgrounds
-for photographs of animals in Africa, as elsewhere, one has to pay
-particular attention, of course, to the effects of shadows, shadows
-which to the eye seem quite natural producing extraordinary effects
-upon the negatives.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    PHOTOGRAPHS OF BIRDS TAKEN WITH THE TELEPHOTO-LENS AT DISTANCES
-    VARYING FROM 20 TO 200 PACES. 1. SPURRED GOOSE (_PLECTROPTERUS
-    GAMBENSIS_, L.). 2. DARTER OR “SNAKE-NECK” (_ANHINGA RUFA LACEP_,
-    Daud.). 3. GREATER CORMORANT (_PHALACROCORAN LUCIDUS LUGUBRIS_,
-    Rüpp.). 4. YELLOW-FLUTED FRANCOLIN (_PTERNISTES LEUCOSEPUS
-    INFUSCATUS_, Cab.). 5. A BIRD OF PREY (_MELIERAN POLIOPTERUS_,
-    Cab.)(?) 6. BEE-EATER (_MELITTOPHAGUS MERIDIONALIS_, Sharpe).
-    7. SHRIKE (_LANIUS CAUDATUS_, Cab.). 8. PELICAN (_PELICANUS
-    RUFESCENS_, Gm.).]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    TELEPHOTOGRAPHS OF BIRDS ON THE WING. FIRST ROW: THE
-    STORK-VULTURE (_SERPENTARIUS SERPENTARIUS_ [MILLER]). SECOND
-    ROW: HAMMERHEAD (_SCOPUS UMBRETTA_, Gm.), SMALL BUSTARD (_OTIS
-    GINDIANA_ [OUST]) SADDLE STORK (_EPHIPPIORHYNCHUS SENEGALENSIS_
-    [SHAW]). THIRD ROW: BATELEUR EAGLE (_HELOTARSUS ECAUDATUS_
-    [DAUD.]), VULTURE (_PSEUDOGYPS AFRICANUS SCHILLINGSI_, Erl.),
-    MARABOU (_LEPTOPTILOS CRUMENIFER_, [CUV.], Less.).]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    TELEPHOTOGRAPH OF A DWARF GAZELLE (_GAZELLA THOMSONI_, Gther.)
-    IN FULL FLIGHT, TAKEN AT A DISTANCE OF 60 PACES. WHEN ANIMALS
-    IN RAPID MOTION ARE THUS PHOTOGRAPHED, THE BACKGROUND ALMOST
-    INEVITABLY COMES OUT BLURRED.]
-
-Some of the photographer’s difficulties are avoided when he uses a
-heavy lens with a long focus. These can be easily used in a strong
-light. On the other hand they have many drawbacks--they are too apt,
-especially, to give a blurred effect to the background in the case of
-objects photographed near at hand. This entails the loss of one of
-the essential elements of such pictures, namely the representation of
-the animal in its natural surroundings. However, I would like to call
-the attention of all travellers to the fact that such apparatus are
-available. Their weight and size entail the putting forth of great
-strength and energy, both in the carrying of them and the handling of
-them, but to my mind no trouble and no exertion could be excessive
-in the work of securing records of what is left us of animal life, in
-the spirit in which Professor Fritsch achieved his task in South Africa.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-JACKAL TAKING TO FLIGHT, STARTLED BY THE FLASHLIGHT.]
-
-The impossibility of securing sharp, clearly defined impressions of
-the animals with the telephoto lens at a hundred paces or more, and
-the few chances I had of photographing them close at hand by daylight,
-were responsible partly for my determination to go in for flashlight
-pictures by night. At first my idea was discouraged and opposed by
-expert advisers, but the Goerz-Schillings apparatus was evolved out
-of my experiments and makes it possible now to secure excellent
-representations of wild life.
-
-As I have said already, I did not succeed with my flashlight
-photographs on my second expedition. And my third expedition, on
-which I managed to take a few, was brought to a sudden end by severe
-illness. At that time I had not found a way to combine the working of
-the flashlight with that of the shutter, essential to the photographing
-of objects in rapid motion. My cameras stood ready for use in the dark
-with the lens uncovered and the plates exposed, the shutter being
-closed automatically when the flashlight contrivance worked. To my
-surprise and disappointment this arrangement proved too slow; the
-exposure was too long in the case of animals moving quickly. Jackals
-emerged from my negatives with six heads, hyenas with long snake-like
-bodies. Unfortunately I destroyed all these monstrosities, and cannot
-therefore reproduce any of them here. Now and again, however, I was
-fortunate enough to get a picture worth having--for instance, that of a
-hyena making off with the head of a zebra, and that of three jackals,
-included in the illustrations to _With Flashlight and Rifle_. The first
-photograph I succeeded with in 1902 was that of a mongoose coming
-up to the bait placed for him. On page 657 the reader may see this
-marten-like animal taking to flight among the thorn-bushes. I secured a
-number of other pictures, notably of hyenas, both spotted and striped,
-and of jackals, in all kinds of strange positions, moving hither and
-thither in search of prey.
-
-What a state of excitement and suspense I used to be in at first when
-the flashlight flamed out--until I got to realise that owing to the
-rapid movements of the animals most of the photographs were sure to be
-failures.
-
-My illness and return from this expedition proved really an advantage
-in the long run, inasmuch as they enabled me to get the apparatus
-brought to such perfection as to render possible the photographing of
-even the most rapid movements. This was brought about in the Goerz
-Institute, Herr M. Kiesling contriving to secure the simultaneous
-operation of the flashlight and the shutter.
-
-Equipped with this new apparatus, I set out on my fourth expedition,
-betaking myself for two reasons to districts with which I was already
-familiar. In the first place, success was much more likely in a country
-the speech of whose inhabitants and all their habits and customs
-were known to me; but my chief reason was that I wished to achieve a
-pictorial record of the wild life of the German region of Africa. As a
-matter of fact, with this kind of object in view, a man might
-spend a lifetime in any such region, and find that, however narrow
-its boundaries, it could always offer him fresh subjects for study and
-observation.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-LIONESS FRIGHTENED AWAY FROM CARCASE BY THE FLASH-LIGHT.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-AIMING AT A PIGEON AND HITTING A CROW! I FOUND THIS SPOTTED HYENA ON
-THE PLATE INSTEAD OF THE LION FOR WHICH IT WAS INTENDED.]
-
-[Illustration: PHOTOGRAPH OF A JACKAL, TAKEN WITH A SMALL HAND-CAMERA.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-PHOTOGRAPH OF A JACKAL TAKEN WITH MY FIRST, PRIMITIVE NIGHT-APPARATUS,
-NOT TOO SUCCESSFULLY!]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    IN ORDER TO ENSURE SUCCESS WITH MY FLASHLIGHT-PHOTOS, I USED TO
-    MAKE CONTINUAL EXPERIMENTS BEFOREHAND. I USED TO MAKE SOME OF MY
-    MEN ACT AS MOVING MODELS, AND GET THEM TO WAVE CLOTHS IN THEIR
-    HANDS.]
-
-On arrival the photographic outfit proved so cumbersome, both as
-regards transport and management, that both Prince Löwenstein, who
-accompanied me, and who was not easily to be daunted by obstacles, and
-also Orgeich gave expression to pessimistic views as to the possibility
-of fulfilling my purpose.
-
-No one, indeed, had been able to boast of success until then with
-this new apparatus! I had yet to satisfy myself that it was really
-efficacious--that, for instance, it would enable me to photograph
-a lion falling upon its prey. Many were the fruitless experiments
-witnessed by the Pangani forest. We experimented night after night, now
-at one spot, now at another--my men learning to enact the rôle of lions
-and other animals for the purpose. The Oriental and the negro are alike
-in their bearing on such occasions, but these flashlight operations did
-really succeed in arousing the wonder of my followers. The laughter
-of my chief man still rings in my ears. “But the lions are far away,
-master!” he would declare, utterly unable to understand my proceedings.
-It took me long, and I had had a large number of failures, before I
-succeeded in overcoming his attitude of incredulity.
-
-As I have already intimated, the efficacy of the telephoto lens in
-the tropics depends to an extraordinary degree on the conditions of
-the atmosphere. The efficacy of the flashlight apparatus depends
-upon the precise absolutely simultaneous working of the flashlight
-and the shutter. It took me weeks and months (and I very nearly
-gave the thing up as hopeless) before I managed to get good results
-in the wilderness, though theoretically, and to a certain extent in
-practice at home, the apparatus had been perfected. The heavy dew of
-the tropical night, or a sudden shower of rain, may easily “do for” the
-flashlight unless the apparatus has been thoroughly safeguarded. And
-there are any number of other mishaps to be provided against. On one
-occasion hyenas carried off the linen sandbags that form part of the
-apparatus; mongooses made away with the aluminium lid of the lens-cap
-and hid it in their stronghold, an ant-hill; ants gnawed the apparatus
-itself. And when the photograph has at last been taken, a lot of other
-harmful contingencies have to be kept in mind. The fact that several
-shillings’ worth of powder is consumed in each explosion of the
-flashlight is in itself a serious consideration. Of course, there is
-always the additional danger of the cameras being stolen or destroyed
-by natives--a misfortune I experienced more than once.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, photo._
-
-    FLASHLIGHT FAILURES II. BLACK-HOOFED ANTELOPES COMING DOWN TO THE
-    WATER-SIDE TO DRINK. THE BLEMISHES WERE CAUSED BY BITS OF THE
-    MATERIAL WITH WHICH THE FLASHLIGHT POWDER WAS COVERED TO PROTECT
-    IT FROM DAMP BEING BLOWN INTO THE AIR AND BURNING AS THEY FLEW IN
-    FRONT OF THE LENS.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-HOW MY FLASHLIGHT PICTURES WERE APT TO BE SPOILT. I. THE ZEBRA IS
-BEHIND THE STICK TO WHICH THE COMMUNICATING STRING IS ATTACHED.]
-
-[Illustration: FLASHLIGHT FAILURES III. TWO TURTLE-DOVES (ONE ON THE
-WING) SET MY NIGHT-APPARATUS WORKING. MISHAPS OF THIS KIND OFTEN OCCUR.]
-
-
-[Illustration: FLASHLIGHT FAILURES IV. A BLACK-HOOFED ANTELOPE DOE
-SWERVES SUDDENLY ROUND DURING THE FLASH.]
-
-I would give the intending photographer a special warning against
-careless handling of the explosive mixture. The various ingredients
-are separately packed, of course, and are thus quite safe until the
-time has come to mix them together (I know nothing of the ready-made
-mixtures which are declared to be portable without danger). This
-business of mixing them with a mortar is dangerous undoubtedly, for the
-introduction of a grain of sand is enough to cause an explosion. I
-myself, as well as others, have had some very narrow escapes whilst
-thus occupied, and, as every photographer knows, the work has had fatal
-results in several instances of recent years.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIES OF ANTELOPES SHOT BY THE AUTHOR AND NOW TO
-    BE SEEN PRESERVED IN GERMAN MUSEUMS. 1, 2. WATERBUCK (_COBUS.
-    AFR. ELLIPSIPRYMNUS_, Ogilb.), MALE AND FEMALE. 3. ELAND (_OREAS
-    LIVINGSTONI_, Sclat.), FEMALE. 4. MASAI HARTEBEEST (_BUBALIS
-    COKEI_, Gthr.), YOUNG BUCK.]
-
-My apparatus revealed several shortcomings even in the improved form.
-It was not absolutely light-proof, and it had to be set up always,
-for its automatic operation, in the brief tropical dusk. If no animal
-presented itself for portraiture the plates exposed were always wasted,
-unless at dawn they were withdrawn again. (This is not the case with
-the apparatus as since perfected.)
-
-Many wrong impressions are current in regard to this kind of
-photography. It can be managed in two ways. Either the photographer
-himself remains on the spot to attend in person both to the flashlight
-and the exposure, or else the mechanism is worked by a string against
-which the animal moves. Before I took my photographs I had been a
-spectator of all the various incidents represented in them, watching
-them all from hiding-places in dense thorn-bushes, thus coming, as it
-were, into personal touch with lions and other animals. Though not so
-dangerous really as camping out on the velt, where one’s fatigue and
-the darkness leave one defenceless against the possible attacks of
-elephants or rhinoceroses, you need good nerves to spend the night in
-your thorn-thicket hiding-place with a view to flashlight snapshots of
-lions at close quarters. In that interesting work _Zu den Aulihans_, by
-Count Hoyos, and in Count Wickenburg’s _Wanderungen in Ostafrika_, the
-reader will find interesting and authentic accounts of night-shoots
-which correspond with my own experiences. Count Coudenhove in his
-first book describes very vividly the effect upon the nerves of
-the apparition of numbers of lions within a few paces of him, when
-concealed in a thorn-bush at night.
-
-There is a wonderful fascination at all times in lying in wait
-by night for animals, and watching their goings and comings and
-all their habits. Even here at home, in our game preserves, the
-experience of passing hour after hour on the look-out has a charm
-about it difficult to describe in words. Out in the wilderness it is
-increased immeasurably. It is an intense pleasure to me to read other
-people’s impressions of such experiences, when I feel the accounts are
-trustworthy. They are so different in some respects, so much alike in
-others. In my first book I cited Count Coudenhove, mentioned above,
-in this connection, as a man of proved courage, who writes at once
-sympathetically and convincingly. Here let me give a passage from the
-book of another sportsman. Count Hans Palffy. In his _Wild und Hund_
-he speaks as follows: “I had been waiting for two hours or so in the
-darkness without being able to descry the carcase of the rhinoceros”
-[which he himself had shot and which he was using as a bait for the
-lion], “when suddenly I heard a sound like that of a heavy body
-falling on the ground, and then almost immediately the lion began
-growling beside the dead animal. I could hear the King of Beasts quite
-distinctly, as he began to pull and bite at the flesh.... He would move
-away from it every ten or twenty minutes, always in the same direction,
-to give out a series of roars. The effect of this was magnificent
-beyond description. Beginning always with a soft murmur, he gradually
-raised his mighty voice into a peal of thunder--I never in my life
-heard anything so beautiful.”
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-JACKALS. ONLY ONE IS VISIBLE, BUT THE GLEAMING EYES OF TWO OTHERS (NOS.
-2 AND 3) GIVE A PECULIAR INTEREST TO THIS PHOTOGRAPH.]
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    PHOTOGRAPHS OF EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES SHOT BY THE AUTHOR AND
-    NOW PRESERVED IN VARIOUS MUSEUMS. 1. SMALL KUDU (_STREPSICEROS
-    IMBERBIS_, Blyth), BUCK. 2. DWARF GAZELLE (_GAZELLA THOMSONI_,
-    Gthr.), BUCK. 3. WHITE-BEARDED GNU (_CONNOCHÆTES ALBOJUBATUS_,
-    Thos.), BULL. 4. BUSH-BUCK (_TRAGELAPHUS MASAICUS_, Neum), BUCK.
-    (THE FEMALE OF THE FIRST-NAMED AND LAST-NAMED SPECIES HAVE NO
-    HORNS.)]
-
-Both on account of the hardships and fatigue involved--which are
-calculated in the long run to ruin his constitution--and also because
-he really cannot manipulate his cameras successfully except on starry
-or moonlight nights, it is most desirable for the photographer to
-provide himself with an apparatus working automatically. You cannot
-count upon its working as you would wish. The string which sets it in
-action may be caught and pulled by a bat or even a cockchafer instead
-of a lion you want to photograph. The photograph reproduced on p. 697,
-for instance, was the work of the turtledoves therein visible. The
-motion of their wings, it may be noted, was too quick for a clearly
-defined record.
-
-This picture, taken in the early morning, is a good instance of the
-way in which I have always enforced my rule as to never touching up my
-photographs. The plate was broken on its way home, but the cracks which
-resulted were left as they were.[21] I remember one case in which I
-had put up my apparatus with a view to securing photographs of certain
-lions, and in which I had to be content with a picture of a spotted
-hyena splashing its way in full flight through the swamp. The hideous
-cowering gait of the animal came out very strikingly on the negative.
-
-There is wide scope for a man’s dexterity and resourcefulness in the
-setting up of a flashlight apparatus. All the qualities that go to the
-making of a big-game hunter are essential to success in this field
-also. You have to keep a sharp look-out for the tracks of the different
-animals and to watch for their appearance, taking up your position in
-some thorn-bush hiding-place or up a tree if you propose to operate the
-camera yourself by means of a string. In the case of most animals you
-have, of course, to pay special attention to the direction of the wind.
-This is not necessary, however, in the case of lions. Lions take no
-notice whatever of the man in hiding. Elephants, on the contrary, are
-very easily excited, and when this is so they are apt to force their
-way into his thorn retreat and trample on him or to drag him down from
-his point of vantage.
-
-       *       *       *       *       *
-
-Future workers in this field will find that my labours have served to
-some extent to clear the ground for them, and we may look forward to
-many interesting achievements. There can be no doubt that the explorer
-who provides himself with the necessary photographic equipment will
-find ample scope for his activities.
-
-My own process was simple enough. I stretched lines of string round the
-heifer or goat which was to serve as a bait, and the lions, hyenas,
-etc., falling on their prey pulled these strings, which worked the
-flashlight--the animals thus taking their own photographs. Some of
-these pictures record new facts in natural history. In my first
-book, for instance, there is a picture of a lioness making off with her
-tail raised high in the air in a way no artist would have thought of
-depicting, and no naturalist have believed to be characteristic.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-    _C. G. Schillings, phot._
-
-    MORE ANTELOPES. 1. BLACK-HOOFED ANTELOPE (_ÆPYCEROS SUARA_,
-    Mtsch.), BUCK. 2. MOUNTAIN REEDBUCK (_CERVICAPRA CHANLERI_,
-    Rothsch.). 3. GRANT’S GAZELLE (_GAZELLA GRANTI_, Brooke), DOE. 4.
-    ORYX ANTELOPE (_ORYX CALLOTIS_, Thos.), BUCK.]
-
-In the course of my labours I had to overcome every description of
-obstacle, and had constantly to be making new experiments. By the
-time I had got things right I had so small a stock of materials left
-at my disposal that I ought to congratulate myself upon my subsequent
-success. The number of good pictures I secured was far less than I had
-originally hoped for, but on the other hand it far surpassed what, in
-those moods of pessimism which followed upon my many failures, I had
-begun to think I should have to be contented with.
-
-Among my successful efforts I count those which record the fashion in
-which the lion falls upon his prey, first prowling round it; and those
-which represent rhinoceroses and hippopotami, leopards and hyenas and
-jackals, antelopes and zebras making their way down to the waterside
-to drink; those also which show the way in which hyenas and jackals
-carry off their spoils, and the relations that exist between them. But
-a point of peculiar interest that my photographs bring out is the way
-in which the eyes of beasts of prey shine out in the darkness of night.
-I have never been able to get any precise scientific explanation of
-this phenomenon. I have often seen it for myself in the wilderness.
-Professor Yngve Sjöstedt, a Swedish naturalist, who has travelled in
-the Kilimanjaro region, tells us that he once saw, quite near his
-camp, the eyes of at least ten lions shining out from the darkness
-exactly like lights. I find the following passage, too, in an old book,
-printed at Nuremberg in 1719: “Travellers tell us (and I myself have
-seen it) that you can follow the movements of lions in the dark owing
-to the way in which their glowing eyes shine out like twin lights.”
-
-Even with a small hand-camera it is possible to secure pictures worth
-having, such as the studies of heads reproduced on the accompanying
-pages. These must always have a certain value, as they depict for the
-most part species of animals which have never yet been secured for
-zoological gardens.
-
-I repeat that there is an immense harvest awaiting the man who is
-prepared to work thoroughly in this field. Why, for instance, should
-he not succeed in getting a picture by night of an entire troop of
-lions? My photographs show how a mating lion and lioness fall on
-their victim--from different sides; and how three lionesses may be
-seen quenching their thirst at midnight, all together. With good luck
-some one may manage to photograph a troop of a dozen or twenty lions
-hunting their prey--that would be a fine achievement. Or he might
-secure a wonderful group of bull-elephants on their way down to a
-drinking-place. The possibilities are immense.
-
-Who has ever seen a herd of giraffes bending down in their grotesque
-impossible attitudes to quench their thirst? A photographic record of
-such a sight would be invaluable now that the species is doomed to
-extinction. But, apart from such big achievements as these, trustworthy
-photographs of wild life in all its forms--even of the smallest
-beasts and birds--are of the utmost value, especially in the case of
-rare species that are dying out.
-
-[Illustration: PHOTOGRAPHS OF (1) A SPOTTED HYENA (_CROCOTTA
-GERMINANS_, Mtsch.); (2) AND (4) STRIPED HYENAS (_HYÆNA SCHILLINGSI_,
-Mtsch.), AND (3) A JACKAL.]
-
-This is true not merely of Africa, but of other parts of the world as
-well. Who is attempting to secure photographic records of the great elk
-and mighty bears of Alaska? or of the wild life of the Arctic zone--the
-polar bear, the walrus, and the seal?
-
-[Illustration: SNAPSHOT OF A JACKAL IN FULL FLIGHT.]
-
-The Arctic regions should be made to tell their last secrets to the
-camera for the benefit of posterity, nor should the wild sheep and ibex
-of the unexplored mountains of Central Asia be overlooked.
-
-These things are not to be easily achieved, and they involve a
-considerable outlay of money. It would be, however, money well spent.
-Money is being lavished upon many other enterprises which could very
-well wait, and which might be carried out just as successfully some
-time in the future. These are possibilities, on the other hand, that
-are diminishing every year, and that presently will cease to exist. I
-trust sincerely that it may be my lot to continue working in this field.
-
-“If only the matter could be brought home to the minds of the right
-people,” wrote one of our best naturalists, after examining my work,
-“tens of thousands of pounds would be devoted to this end.”
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: GUINEA-FOWL.]
-
-Envoi
-
-
-I may be permitted a few words in conclusion to reaffirm certain views
-to which I cling. I would not have my readers attach any special
-importance to what I myself have achieved, but I would like them to
-take to heart the moral of my book.
-
-It may be summed up in a very few words. I maintain that wild life
-everywhere, and in all its forms, should be religiously protected--that
-the forces of nature should not be warred against more than our
-struggle for existence renders absolutely inevitable; and that it is
-the sportsman’s duty, above all, to have a care for the well-being of
-the whole of the animal world.
-
-Whoever glances over the terrible list of so-called “harmful” birds and
-beasts done to death every year in Germany must bemoan this ruthless
-destruction of a charming feature of our countryside, carried out by
-sportsmen in the avowed interest of certain species designated as
-“useful.” The realm of nature should not be regarded exclusively from
-the point of view of sport; the sportsman should stand rather in the
-position of a guardian or trustee, responsible to all nature-lovers for
-the condition of the fauna and flora left to his charge.
-
-I would have the German hunter establish the same kind of reservations,
-the same kind of “sanctuaries” for wild life that exist in America.
-In our German colonies, especially in Africa, we should model those
-reservations on English examples. Such institutions, in which both
-flora and fauna should be really well looked after, would be a source
-at once of instruction and enjoyment of the highest kind to all lovers
-of natural history.
-
-[Illustration: FAREWELL TO AFRICA!]
-
-
-_Printed by Hazell, Watson & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury._
-
-
-
-
-CHEAP EDITION
-
-“The most remarkable travel book that has ever been
-published.”--_Graphic._
-
-With Flashlight and Rifle
-
-A Record of Hunting Adventures and Studies in Wild Life
-
-  By C. G. SCHILLINGS
-  Translated by FREDERIC WHYTE
-
-  With an Introduction by Sir Harry Johnston, G.C.M.G., K.C.B.,
-  Illustrated with 302 of the Author’s “untouched” photographs
-  taken by day and night.
-
-  _Printed throughout on English art paper, in one handsome
-  vol., =824= pages super-royal 8vo, =12s. 6d.= net_
-
-PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT wrote of Mr. Schillings’s book:
-
-
-“His extraordinary photographic work among the teeming wild creatures
-of East Africa.... He is a great field naturalist, a trained scientific
-observer, as well as a mighty hunter; and no mere hunter can ever do
-work even remotely approaching in value that which he has done. His
-book should be translated into English at once.”
-
-
-Some Exceptional Reviews
-
-“An entrancing work. His photographs are positively wonderful; his
-letterpress is vivid.”--_Standard._
-
-“A book of singular value.”--_Yorkshire Post._
-
-“This remarkable book.”--_Sporting and Dramatic News._
-
-“A unique and most remarkable book.”--_Scotsman._
-
-“Space forbids any mention of the author’s hunting adventures or of his
-many thrilling escapes from death, but all through the two volumes the
-human interest is as strong as the scientific.”--_Graphic._
-
-“A remarkable book. Nobody else has ever obtained so wonderful a series
-of photographs.”--_Truth._
-
-“An entirely remarkable book, containing the greatest triumph in
-photography of wild animals ever achieved.”--_Outlook._
-
-
-LONDON: HUTCHINSON & CO., PATERNOSTER ROW
-
-
-
-
-Nearest the Pole
-
-By Commander R. E. PEARY
-
-(U. S. Navy; President of the National Geographic Society)
-
-_Author of “Northward over the Great Ice,” etc._
-
-With an introduction by President Roosevelt and numerous illustrations
-selected from a collection of 1,200 of the Author’s photographs
-
-_In Crown 4to, cloth gilt and gilt top_, =21s.= _net_.
-
-
-In this book Commander Peary relates the thrilling story of his
-endeavours to reach the North Pole. Although he did not succeed in
-his attempt, he managed to get nearer to the Pole than any of his
-predecessors. Sailing in the _Roosevelt_ from Etah, North Greenland,
-on August 16th, 1905, the expedition soon encountered ice which made
-their progress both dangerous and difficult. After being icebound for
-some weeks, the vessel was extricated, but not floated again until the
-following summer. The sun disappearing from sight in October, was not
-seen again until March. The expedition re-started in February on a
-sledge trip in the direction of the Pole, and after dividing the party,
-Peary and his followers journeyed towards their goal encountering on
-their way, among other mishaps, a gale which lasted six days, during
-which time they found themselves some seventy miles out of their
-course. They then endeavoured to get intelligence of the other portion
-of their party, but had to abandon their attempt as their scouts could
-not locate their whereabouts. At length, by forced marches, Commander
-Peary, on April 21st, reached 87° 6´ N.
-
-On this expedition Commander Peary did for the American segment of
-the Polar Basin what Nansen did for the Asiatic. The narrative is
-exceedingly dramatic. The explorer tells how he built the _Roosevelt_
-on an entirely different plan from any other Arctic ship, and not only
-adopted Eskimo clothing and made camps like Eskimos in ice and snow,
-but took Eskimos with him as guides. It is the seventh time that Peary
-has been North--oftener than any other explorer: and the Hubbard Gold
-Medal that President Roosevelt presented him on behalf of the National
-Geographic Society is the fifth he has received for his distinguished
-achievements in exploration. There will be an introduction to the book
-by President Roosevelt, and the beautiful pictures with which the book
-will be illustrated are selected from a collection of 1,200 of the
-author’s photographs.
-
-
-LONDON: HUTCHINSON & CO., PATERNOSTER ROW FOOTNOTES:
-
-
-
-
-FOOTNOTES:
-
-
-[1] Male Emperor-moths (_Saturnia pyri_) hasten from great distances,
-even against the wind, to a female of the species emerging from the
-chrysalis state in captivity. Elephants, the author believes, can scent
-a fall of rain at a distance of many miles.
-
-[2] The author would like to bring this fact home to all destroyers of
-herons, kingfishers, and diving-birds.
-
-[3] The Masai distinguish the kinds of grass which their cattle eat and
-reject. Many kinds of grass with pungent grains, such as _Andropogon
-contortus_, L., are rejected entirely. Yet the tough bow-string hemp is
-to the taste of many wild animals--the small kudu, for instance.
-
-[4] Latterly many sportsmen in the tropics have taken again to the
-use of very large-calibre rifles. Charges of as much as 21 gr. of
-black powder and a 26¾ mm. bullet are employed with them. It is to the
-kick of such a ride that the author owes the scar which is visible
-in the portrait serving as frontispiece to this book--an “untouched”
-photograph, like all the others.
-
-[5] See _With Flashlight and Rifle_.
-
-[6] In winter, Siberia affords a refuge to beautiful long-haired
-tigers, such as can be seen in the Berlin Zoological Gardens.
-
-[7] For this information I am indebted to the kindness of the
-experienced Russian hunter Ceslav von Wancowitz.
-
-[8] Herr Niedieck also underwent a similar experience. See his book
-_Mit der Büchse in fünf Weltteilen_, and my own _With Flashlight and
-Rifle_.
-
-[9] Little elephants only a yard high used to inhabit Malta, and there
-still lives, according to Hagenbeck, the experienced zoologist of
-Hamburg, a dwarf species of elephant in yet unexplored districts of
-West Africa.
-
-[10] Experienced German hunters make a special plea for the use of
-rifles of heavier calibre. Many English hunters are of the same opinion.
-
-[11] The _raison d’être_ of these powerful weapons of the African
-elephant is a difficult question. Why did the extinct mammoth carry
-such very different tusks, curving upwards? Why has the Indian elephant
-such small tusks, and the Ceylon elephant hardly any at all, whilst the
-African’s are so huge and heavy?
-
-[12] On that occasion I had not at hand a telephoto-lens of sufficient
-range.
-
-[13] The well-known naturalist, Hagenbeck, remembers the immense
-numbers of giraffes which were bagged in the Sudan some thirty years
-ago.
-
-[14] Later observers questioned this fact. When I have used the word
-“mimicry,” I have done so not in the original sense of Bates and
-Wallace, but as denoting the conformity of the appearance of animals
-with their environment.
-
-[15] Some years earlier one of our best zoologists, after a long stay
-in the Masai uplands, had described the giraffes as “rare and almost
-extinct”: a striking proof of the great difficulty there is in coming
-upon these animals.
-
-[16] The author has often heard it asserted that the giraffe does much
-harm to the African vegetation and therefore should be exterminated.
-Such assertions should be speedily and publicly denied. They are on a
-level with the demand for the complete extermination of African game
-with a view to getting rid of the tsetse-fly.
-
-[17] _Giraffa reticulata_ de Winton and _Giraffa schillingsi_, Mtsch.
-
-[18] Cf. _With Flashlight and Rifle_.
-
-[19] Recent reports from West Africa confirm what I say about the
-disastrous results of allowing the natives to hunt with firearms. The
-same regrettable state of things prevails in every part of the world in
-which this is permitted.
-
-[20] I do not know of any “telephoto” picture of animals in rapid
-motion having been published anywhere previously to my own. Those I
-refer to here are of animals at rest or moving quite slowly.
-
-[21] Flashlight photographs may be taken by daylight, as is proved by
-this photograph and some of those of rhinoceroses in _With Flashlight
-and Rifle_.
-
-
-[Transcriber’s Note:
-
-Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original.]
-
-
-
-
-
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-<pre>
-
-Project Gutenberg's In Wildest Africa Vol 2 (of 2), by Carl Georg Schillings
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-Title: In Wildest Africa Vol 2 (of 2)
-
-Author: Carl Georg Schillings
-
-Release Date: June 16, 2017 [EBook #54923]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN WILDEST AFRICA VOL 2 (OF 2) ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Greg Weeks, Kim, Wayne Hammond and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-
-<p class="figcenter">
-<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_i">i</span></p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii">ii</span><br />
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">iii</span></p>
-
-<h1>IN WILDEST AFRICA</h1>
-
-<h2>
-<span class="xx-large">IN WILDEST AFRICA</span><br />
-<br />
-<small>BY</small><br />
-C. G. SCHILLINGS<br />
-<small>AUTHOR OF “WITH FLASHLIGHT AND RIFLE IN EQUATORIAL EAST AFRICA”</small><br />
-<br />
-<small>TRANSLATED BY</small><br />
-<span class="large">FREDERIC WHYTE</span><br />
-<br />
-<span class="medium"><b>WITH OVER 300 PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIES DIRECT FROM THE AUTHOR’S<br />
-NEGATIVES, TAKEN BY DAY AND NIGHT; AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS</b></span><br />
-<br />
-<span class="smcap">Vol. II</span><br />
-<br />
-<span class="smcap">London</span><br />
-HUTCHINSON &amp; CO.<br />
-<span class="large">PATERNOSTER ROW<br />
-1907</span><br />
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_iv">iv</span></h2>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">v</span></p>
-
-<h2 id="Illustration_YOUNG_DWARF_ANTELOPE">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_005" src="images/i_005.jpg" alt="" /><br />
-<span class="caption"><small>YOUNG DWARF ANTELOPE</small></span></span>
-
-Contents of Vol. II</h2>
-
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <td colspan="2"><small>CHAP</small></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><small>PAGE</small></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="tdr">VIII.</td>
-    <td><a href="#VIII">IN A PRIMEVAL FOREST</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">319</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="tdr">IX.</td>
-    <td><a href="#IX">AFTER ELEPHANTS WITH WANDOROBO</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">370</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="tdr">X.</td>
-    <td><a href="#X">RHINOCEROS-HUNTING</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">431</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="tdr">XI.</td>
-    <td><a href="#XI">THE CAPTURING OF A LION</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">470</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="tdr">XII.</td>
-    <td><a href="#XII">A DYING RACE OF GIANTS</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">511</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="tdr">XIII.</td>
-    <td><a href="#XIII">A VANISHING FEATURE OF THE VELT</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">550</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="tdr">XIV.</td>
-    <td><a href="#XIV">CAMPING OUT ON THE VELT</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">578</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="tdr">XV.</td>
-    <td><a href="#XV">NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY UNDER DIFFICULTIES</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">637</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="tdr">XVI.</td>
-    <td><a href="#XVI">PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAY AND BY NIGHT</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">657</td>
-  </tr></table>
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">vi</span></p>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">vii</span></p>
-
-<h2 id="Illustration_CORMORANTS">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_007" src="images/i_007.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption">CORMORANTS.</span></span>
-
-List of Illustrations in Vol. II</h2>
-
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <td />
-    <td class="small tdr">PAGE</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_005">Young Dwarf Antelope</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">v</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_007">Cormorants</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">vii</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_010">Spurred Geese</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">319</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_013">Views of Kilimanjaro</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_013">322</a>, <a href="#i_014">323</a>, <a href="#i_018">327</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_022">River-bed Vegetation on the Velt</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">331</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_026">A Fisherman’s Bag</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">335</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_031">Clatter-bills</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_031">340</a>, <a href="#i_032">341</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_037">A Marsh-land View</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">346</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_038">Snow-white Herons</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">347</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_040a">A Pair of Crested Cranes</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">349</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_040b">A Snake-vulture</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">349</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_043">Preparing to Skin a Hippopotamus</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">352</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_044">Hippopotami Swimming</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">353</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_048">Head of a Hippopotamus</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">357</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_050">A Wandorobo Chief</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">359</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_055">Egyptian Geese</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">364</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_056">A Wounded Buffalo</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">365</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_058">Hunting Record-card</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">367</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_060">A Sea-gull</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">369</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_061">A Masai throwing his Spear</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">370</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_062">A Hippopotamus on his way to the Swamp</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;370</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_067a">Oryx Antelopes</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">374</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_068a">Waterbuck</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">375</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_073">Wandorobo Guides on the March</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">380</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_074">A Party of Wandorobo Hunters</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">381</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_079">A Feast of Honey</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">386</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_080">Acacia-tree denuded by Elephants</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">387</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_082a">An Oryx Antelope’s Methods of Defence</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">389</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_083">A Dwarf Kudu</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">390</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_085a">Zebras</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">392</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_085b">Giraffe Studies</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">392</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_086a">Zebras on the open Velt</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">393</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_086b">Laden Masai Donkeys</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">397</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_090">Pearl-hens on an Acacia-tree</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">393</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_092">A pair of Grant’s Gazelles taking to Flight</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;398</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_097a">Grant’s Gazelles</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">402</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_097b">A Good Instance of Protective Colouring</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">402</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_098a">Grant’s Gazelles</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_098a">403</a>, <a href="#i_103">408</a>, <a href="#i_104">409</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_106">Young Masai Hartebeest</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">411</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_109">A Herd of Hartebeests</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">414</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_110a">Hartebeests with Young</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">415</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_110b">Waterbuck</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">415</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_113">The Skinning of an Elephant</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_113">420</a>, <a href="#i_114">421</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_117">A Missionary’s Dwelling</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">424</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_119">Elephants killed by the Author</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_119">426</a>, <a href="#i_120">427</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_122">Some African Trophies</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">429</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_124">Black-headed Herons</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">431</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_127a">Rhinoceros Heads</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_127a">434</a>, <a href="#i_127b">435</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_132">An Eland Bull</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i> 438</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_138">An Eland, just before the Finishing Shot</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">441</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_142">An Eland Bull</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">445</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_148">Rhinoceroses, with</a> and <a href="#i_147">without Horns</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_148">450</a>, <a href="#i_147">451</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_152">Snapshot of a Rhinoceros at twenty paces</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">455</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_156">Shelter from a Rhinoceros</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">459</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_158">An Emaciated Rhinoceros</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">461</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_160">Specimen of Stone against which Rhinoceroses whet their Horns</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">463</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_162">A “Rhino” in sitting posture</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;464</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_166">A Rock-pool on Kilimanjaro</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">467</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_169">Masai Killing a Hyena with Clubs</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">470</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_172">The Moods of a Lion Cub</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_172">472</a>, <a href="#i_171">473</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_178">Record of a Lion-hunt</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">479</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_182">A Lion at Bay</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">483</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_184a">Studies of a Trapped Lion</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">485<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">viii</span></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_188">The Lion ... had dragged the Trap some distance</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;488</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_190">Carrying a Live Lion to Camp</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">489</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_193">A Captured Lioness</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">492</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_194">A Trapped Lion roaring</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">493</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_196">Flashlight Photograph of a Lion</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">495</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_200">Photograph of a Lion at five paces</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">499</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_204">Hauling a Live Hyena into Camp</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">501</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_206">Hyena Chained up in Camp</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">505</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_208a">Masai making game of a Trapped Hyena</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">507</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_212">Specimens of Elephant-tusks</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">511</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_214">Record Elephant-tusks</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">513</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_218">A Store of Elephant-tusks</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">517</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_222b">Auk</a> and <a href="#i_222a">Auk’s Egg</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">521</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_226">Thicket frequented by Elephants</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">525</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_233">Velt Fires</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_233">532</a>, <a href="#i_234">533</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_238">An old Acacia-tree</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">537</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_242">Studies of Elephants in Dense Forest Growth</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;540</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_250">Elephants and Giraffe&mdash;a Quaint Companionship</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">544, 545</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_254">A Young Lion</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">549</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_255">Study in Protective “Mimicry”</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">550</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_257">Giraffe Studies</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_257">552</a>, <a href="#i_258">553</a>; <a href="#i_263">558</a>, <a href="#i_264a">559</a>; <a href="#i_270">564</a>, <a href="#i_274">565</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_276">Giraffes in Characteristic Surroundings</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;568</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_278">Head of a Giraffe</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">569</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_283">Giraffe Studies</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_283">574</a>, <a href="#i_284">575</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_286"><i>Giraffa schillingsi</i>, Mtsch.</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;576</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_288">Crested Cranes on the Wing</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">577</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_289">Hungry Vultures</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">578</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_290">Pitching Camp</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">579</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_292">My Taxidermist at Work</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">581</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_294">Termite Ant-hills</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">583</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_298">An unusually large Ant-hill</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">587</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_300">Prince L&ouml;wenstein</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">589</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_301">Destroying an Ant-hill with Pick and Shovel</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">590</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_303a">Serving out Provisions</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">592</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_303b">Bearer’s Wife preparing a Meal</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">592</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_304a">Young Baboons in front of my Tent</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">593</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_304b">Young Ostriches</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">593</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_306">Marabou Nests</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_306">595</a>, <a href="#i_309">598</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_310">Feathered members of my Camp</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">599</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_312">A rather Mixed-up Photograph</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">601</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>My Rhinoceros:</td>
-    <td />
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="i4"><a href="#i_318">in the Berlin “Zoo” and</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">606</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="i4"><a href="#i_317">on the Velt</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">607</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_323a">How my captive “Rhino” was Carried to Camp</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">612</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_323b">Carrying a Dead Leopard</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">612</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_324a">My “Rhino” and her Two Companions</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">613</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_324b">A Young Hyena extracted from its Lair</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">613</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Vultures:</td>
-    <td />
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="i4"><a href="#i_329">On the Wing</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">618</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="i4"><a href="#i_330">Hovering over a Carcase</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">619</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="i4"><a href="#i_332">Moving away from a Carcase</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">621</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_334">My Pelicans</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">623</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_336">A Siesta in Camp</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">625</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_339">A Strange Friendship</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">628</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_340">“Fatima” Prowling Round</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">629</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_342">Carrying a fine Leopard</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">631</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_344a">Killing Game in accordance with Mohammedan rites</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">633</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_344b">Cutting up the Carcase</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">633</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_346">A Trapped Leopard</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">635</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_347">The Baboon and the Little Black Lady</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">636</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_348">Moonlight on the Velt</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i> 636</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_350">A Fowl of the Velt</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">637</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_352">A River-horse Resort</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">639</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_354">One of the Peaks of Donje-Erok</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">641</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_356">Drawing Water for the March</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">643</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_358">Vultures</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">645</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_361">Flashlight Photographs</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_361">648</a>, <a href="#i_362">649</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_366">My Night-apparatus in position</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">653</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_367">A Pet of the Caravan</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">654</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_368">A Baobab-tree</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">655</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_370">Flashlight Photograph of a Mongoose</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">657</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_373">tus for Night Photography</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_373">660</a>, <a href="#i_374">661</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_378">Vultures contesting the Possession of Carrion</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">665</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_380">First Dry-plate Photograph, probably, ever taken in the African Desert</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">667</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td>Photographic Mishaps:</td>
-    <td />
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="i4"><a href="#i_382">Cracked Glass Plate</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">669</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td class="i4"><a href="#i_386">Plate Exposed Twice</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">673</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_390">Telephotograph of Ostriches</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">677</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_394">Photographs of Birds taken at distances varying from 20 to 200 paces</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">681</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_396">Telephotographs of Birds on the Wing</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">683</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_397">Dwarf Gazelle, photographed at sixty paces</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">684</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_398">Jackal taking to Flight, startled by the Flashlight</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">685</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_402">Lioness frightened away from Carcase by the Flashlight</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;688</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_404">Aiming at a Pigeon and Hitting a Crow!</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i>&nbsp;&nbsp;688</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_406a">Hand-camera Photograph of a Jackal</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">689</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_406b">Photograph of a Jackal taken with my first Night-apparatus</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">689</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_408">Flashlight Photography: my Native Models</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">691</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_411">Flashlight Failures</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><a href="#i_411">694</a>, <a href="#i_412">695</a>; <a href="#i_414">697</a>, <a href="#i_415">698</a></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_416a">Photographic Studies of Antelopes shot by the Author</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">699</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_420">Jackals</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr"><i>facing</i> 702</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_422a">East-African Antelopes shot by the Author</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">703</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_426a">More Antelopes</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">707</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_430a">Spotted and Striped Hyenas and Jackal</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">711</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_432">A Jackal in full Flight</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">713</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_434">Guinea-fowl</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">715</td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><a href="#i_435">Farewell to Africa</a></td>
-    <td class="tdr">716</td>
-  </tr>
-</table>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">319</span></p>
-
-<h2 id="VIII">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_010" src="images/i_010.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption">SPURRED GEESE (<i>PLECTROPTERUS GAMBENSIS</i>).</span></span>
-
-VIII<br />
-
-In a Primeval Forest</h2>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">Scenes</span> of marvellous beauty open out before the
-wanderer who follows the windings of some great
-river through the unknown regions of Equatorial East
-Africa.</p>
-
-<p>The dark, turbid stream is to find its way, after a
-thousand twists and turns, into the Indian Ocean. Filterings
-from the distant glaciers of Kilimanjaro come down
-into the arid velt, there to form pools and rivulets that
-traverse in part the basin of the Djipe Lake and at last
-are merged in the Rufu River. As is so often the case
-with African rivers, the banks of the Rufu are densely
-wooded throughout its long course, the monotony of which
-is broken by a number of rapids and one big waterfall.
-Save in those rare spots where the formation of the soil
-is favourable to their growth, the woods do not extend
-into the velt. Trees and shrubs alike become parched
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">320</span>
-a few steps away from the sustaining river. The abundance
-of fish in the river is tremendous in its wilder
-reaches&mdash;inexhaustible, it would seem, despite the thousands
-of animal enemies. The river continually overflows its
-banks, and the resulting swamps give such endless opportunities
-for spawning that at times every channel is alive
-with fry and inconceivable multitudes of small fishes.</p>
-
-<p>It is only here and there and for short stretches that
-the river is lost in impenetrable thickets. Marvellous
-are those serried ranks of trees! marvellous, too, the
-sylvan galleries through which more usually it shapes its
-way! They take the eye captive and seem to withhold
-some unsuspected secret, some strange riddle, behind their
-solid mass of succulent foliage. It is strange that these
-primeval trees should still survive in all their strength with
-all the parasitic plants and creepers that cling to them,
-strangling them in their embrace. You would almost say
-that they lived on but as a prop to support the plants and
-creepers in their fight for life. Convolvuli, white and
-violet, stoop forward over the water, and the golden
-yellow acacia blossoms brighten the picture.</p>
-
-<p>In the more open reaches dragonflies and butterflies
-glisten all around us in the moist atmosphere. A grass-green
-tree-snake glides swiftly through the branches of a
-shrub close by. A Waran (<i>Waranus niloticus</i>) runs
-to the water with a strange sudden rustle through
-the parched foliage. Everywhere are myriads of insects.
-Wherever you look, the woods teem with life. These
-woods screen the river from the neighbouring velt,
-the uniformity of which is but seldom broken in upon by
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">321</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">322</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">323</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">324</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">325</span>
-patches of vegetation. The character of the flora has
-something northern about it to the unlearned eye, as is the
-case so often in East Africa. It is only when you come
-suddenly upon the Dutch palms (<i>Borassus &aelig;thiopicus</i>,
-Mart., or the beautiful <i>Hyph&aelig;ne thebaica</i>, Mart.) that you
-feel once again that you are in the tropics.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_013" src="images/i_013.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">VIEW OF MAWENZI, THE HIGHEST PEAK BUT ONE OF KILIMANJARO, TAKEN WITH A TELEPHOTO-LENS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_014" src="images/i_014.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">VIEW OF KILIMANJARO, TAKEN AT SUNSET.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The river now makes a great curve round to the right.
-A different kind of scene opens out to the gaze&mdash;a great
-stretch of open country. In the foreground the mud-banks
-of the stream are astir with huge crocodiles gliding into
-the water and moving about this way and that, like
-tree-trunks come suddenly to life. Now they vanish from
-sight, but only to take up their position in ambush, ready
-to snap at any breathing thing that comes unexpectedly
-within their reach. Doubtless they find it the more easy
-to sink beneath the surface of the river by reason of the
-great number of sometimes quite heavy stones they have
-swallowed, and have inside them. I have sometimes found
-as much as seven pounds of stones and pebbles in the
-stomach of a crocodile.</p>
-
-<p>The deep reaches of the river are their special domain.
-Multitudes of birds frequent the shallows, knowing from
-experience that they are safe from their enemy. One
-of the most interesting things that have come under my
-observation is the way these birds keep aloof from the
-deep waters which the crocodiles infest. I have mentioned
-it elsewhere, but am tempted to allude to it once again.</p>
-
-<p>Our attention is caught by the wonderful wealth of
-bird-life now spread out before us in every direction.
-Here comes a flock of the curious clatter-bills (<i>Anastomus
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">326</span>
-lamelligerus</i>, Tem.) in their simple but attractive
-plumage. They have come in quest of food. Hundreds
-of other marsh-birds of all kinds have settled on the outspread
-branches of the trees, and enable us to distinguish
-between their widely differing notes.</p>
-
-<p>Among these old trees that overhang the river, covered
-with creepers and laden with fruit of quaint shape, are
-Kigelia, tamarinds, and acacias. In amongst the dense
-branches a family of Angolan guereza apes (<i>Colobus
-palliatus</i>, Ptrs.) and a number of long-tailed monkeys
-are moving to and fro. Now a flock of snowy-feathered
-herons (<i>Herodias garzetta</i>, L., and <i>Bubulcus ibis</i>, L.) flash
-past, dazzlingly white&mdash;two hundred of them, at least&mdash;alighting
-for a moment on the brittle branches and pausing
-in their search for food. Gravely moving their heads
-about from side to side, they impart a peculiar charm
-to the trees. Now another flock of herons (<i>Herodias
-alba</i>, L.), also dazzlingly white, but birds of a larger
-growth, speed past, flying for their lives. Why is it that
-even here, in this remote sanctuary of animal life, within
-which I am the first European trespasser, these beautiful
-birds are so timorous? Who can answer that question
-with any certainty? All we know is, that it has come to
-be their nature to scour about from place to place in
-perpetual flight. Perhaps in other lands they have made
-acquaintance with man’s destructiveness. Perhaps they
-are endowed with keener senses than their smaller snow-white
-kinsfolk, which suffer us to approach so near, and
-which, like the curious clatter-bill (which have never
-yet been seen in captivity), evince no sign of shyness&mdash;nothing
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">327</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">328</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">329</span>
-but a certain mild surprise&mdash;at the sight of
-man.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_018" src="images/i_018.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">KIBO IN THE FOREGROUND, WITH THE SADDLE-SHAPED RANGE CONNECTING IT WITH MAWENZI IN THE DISTANCE.
-THE AVERAGE HEIGHT OF THIS “SADDLE” IS MORE THAN 16,OOO FEET.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Now, with a noisy clattering of wings, those less
-comely creatures, the Hagedasch ibises, rise in front of
-us, filling the air with their extraordinary cry: “Heiha!
-Ha heiha!”</p>
-
-<p>Now we have a strange spectacle before our eyes&mdash;a
-number of wild geese, perched upon the trees. The great,
-heavy birds make several false starts before they make up
-their minds to escape to safety. They present a beautiful
-sight as they make off on their powerful wings. They are
-rightly styled “spurred geese,” by reason of the sharp
-spurs they have on their wings. Hammerheads (<i>Scopus
-umbretta</i>, Gm.) move about in all directions. A colony
-of darters now comes into sight, and monopolises my
-attention. A few of their flat-shaped nests are visible
-among the pendent branches of some huge acacias, rising
-from an island in mid-stream. While several of the long-necked
-fishing-birds seek safety in flight, others&mdash;clearly the
-females&mdash;remain seated awhile on the eggs in their nests,
-but at last, with a sudden dart, take also to their wings
-and disappear. Beneath the nesting-places of these birds
-I found great hidden shaded cavities, the resorts for ages
-past of hippopotami, which find a safe and comfortable
-haven in these small islands.</p>
-
-<p>The dark forms of these fishing-birds present a strange
-appearance in full flight. They speed past you swiftly,
-looking more like survivals from some earlier age than
-like birds of our own day. There is a suggestion of flying
-lizards about them. Here they come, describing a great
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">330</span>
-curve along the river’s course, at a fair height. They are
-returning to their nests, and as they draw near I get a
-better chance of observing the varying phases of their flight.</p>
-
-<p>But look where I may, I see all around me a wealth
-of tropical bird-life. Snow-white herons balance themselves
-on the topmost branches of the acacias. Barely
-visible against the deep-blue sky, a brood-colony of
-wood ibis pelicans (<i>Tantalus ibis</i>, L.) fly hither and thither,
-seeking food for their young. Other species of herons,
-notably the black-headed heron, so like our own common
-heron (<i>Ardea melanocephala</i>, Vig., Childr.), and further
-away a great flock of cow-herons (<i>Bubulcus ibis</i>, L.),
-brooding on the acacias upon the island, attract my
-attention. Egyptian Kingfishers (<i>Ceryle rudis</i>, L.) dart
-down to the water’s edge, and return holding tiny fishes
-in their beaks to their perch above.</p>
-
-<p>The numbers and varieties of birds are in truth almost
-bewildering to the spectator. Here is a marabou which
-has had its midday drink and is keeping company for the
-moment with a pair of fine-looking saddled storks (<i>Ephippiorhynchus
-senegalensis</i>, Shaw); there great regiments of
-crested cranes; single specimens of giant heron (<i>Ardea
-goliath</i>, Cretzschm.) keep on the look-out for fish in a
-quiet creek; on the sandbanks, and in among the
-thickets alongside, a tern (<i>Œdicnemus vermiculatus</i>, Cab.)
-is enjoying a sense of security. Near it are gobbling
-Egyptian geese and small plovers. A great number of
-cormorants now fly past, some of them settling on the
-branches of a tree which has fallen into the water. They
-are followed by Tree-geese (<i>Dendrocygna viduata</i>, L.),
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">331</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">332</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">333</span>
-some plovers and night-herons, numerous sea-swallows
-as well as seagulls; snipe (<i>Gallinago media</i>, Frisch.), and
-the strange painted snipe (<i>Rostratula bengalensis</i>, L.), the
-<i>Actophylus africanus</i>, and marsh-fowl (<i>Ortygometra
-pusilla obscura</i>, Neum.), spurred lapwing (<i>Hoplopterus
-speciosus</i>, Lcht.), and many other species. Now there
-rings out, distinguishable from all the others, the clear
-cry&mdash;to me already so familiar and so dear&mdash;of the
-screeching sea-eagle, that most typical frequenter of
-these riverside regions of Africa and so well meriting
-its name. A chorus of voices, a very Babel of sound,
-breaks continually upon the ear, for the varieties of small
-birds are also well represented in this region. The most
-beautiful of all are the cries of the organ-shrike and of the
-sea-eagle. The veritable concerts of song, however, that
-you hear from time to time are beyond the powers of
-description, and can only be cherished in the memory.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_022" src="images/i_022.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">RIVER-BED VEGETATION ON THE VELT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>There is a glamour about the whole life of the African
-wonderland that recalls the forgotten fairy tales of childhood’s
-days, a sense of stillness and loveliness. Every
-curve of the stream tells of secrets to be unearthed and
-reveals unsuspected beauties, in the forms and shapes of
-the Phœnix palms and all the varieties of vegetation; in
-the indescribable tangle of the creepers; in the ever-changing
-effects of light and shade; finally in the sudden
-glimpses into the life of the animals that here make their
-home. You see the deep, hollowed-out passages down to
-the river that tell of the coming and going of the hippopotamus
-and rhinoceros, made use of also by the crocodiles.
-It is with a shock of surprise that you see a specimen of our
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">334</span>
-own great red deer come hither at midday to quench his
-thirst&mdash;a splendid figure, considerably bigger and stronger
-than he is to be seen elsewhere. A herd of wallowing
-wart-hogs or river-swine will sometimes startle you into
-hasty retreat before you realise what they are. The
-tree-tops rock under the weight and motion of apes
-unceasingly scurrying from branch to branch. Every
-now and again the eye is caught by the sight of groups of
-crocodiles, now basking contentedly in the sun, now
-betaking themselves again to the water in that stealthy,
-sinister, gliding way of theirs.</p>
-
-<p>Not so long ago the African traveller found such scenes
-as these along the banks of every river. Nowadays, too
-many have been shorn of all these marvels. Take, for
-instance, the old descriptions of the Orange River and of
-the animal life met with along its course. No trace of
-it now remains.</p>
-
-<p>I should like to give a picture of the animal life still
-extant along the banks of the Pangani. The time is
-inevitably approaching when that, too, will be a thing of
-the past, for it is not to be supposed that advancing
-civilisation will prove less destructive here.</p>
-
-<p>So recently as the year 1896 the course of the river
-was for the most part unknown. When I followed it for
-the second time in 1897, and when in subsequent years I
-explored both its banks for great distances, people were
-still so much in the dark about it that several expeditions
-were sent out to discover whether it was navigable.</p>
-
-<p>That it was not navigable I myself had long known.
-Its numerous rapids are impracticable for boats even in the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">335</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">336</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">337</span>
-rainy season. In the dry season they present insuperable
-obstacles to navigation of any kind.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_026" src="images/i_026.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A FISHERMAN’S BAG! THREE CROCODILES SECURED BY THE AUTHOR IN THE
-WAY DESCRIBED IN “WITH FLASHLIGHT AND RIFLE.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The basin of the Djipe Lake in the upper reaches of the
-Pangani, and the Pangani swamps below its lower reaches,
-formed a kind of natural preserve for every variety of the
-marvellous fauna of East Africa. It was a veritable El
-Dorado for the European sportsman, but one attended by
-all kinds of perils and difficulties. The explorer found
-manifold compensation, however, for everything in the
-unexampled opportunities afforded him for the study of
-wild life in the midst of these stifling marshes and lagoons.
-The experience of listening night after night to the myriad
-voices of the wilderness is beyond description.</p>
-
-<p>Hippopotami were extraordinarily numerous at one time
-in the comparatively small basin of the Djipe Lake. In
-all my long sojourn by the banks of the Pangani I only
-killed two, and I never again went after any. There were
-such numbers, however, round Djipe Lake ten years ago
-that you often saw dozens of them together at one time.
-I fear that by now they have been nearly exterminated.</p>
-
-<p>Here, as everywhere else, the natives have levied but
-a small tribute upon the numbers of the wild animals, a
-tribute in keeping with the nature of their primitive
-weapons. Elephants used regularly to make their way
-down to the water-side from the Kilimanjaro woods. My
-old friend Nguruman, the Ndorobo chieftain, used to lie in
-wait for them, with his followers, concealed in the dense
-woods along the river. But the time came when the
-elephants ceased to make their appearance. The old
-hunter, whose body bore signs of many an encounter
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">338</span>
-with lions as well as elephants, and who used often to hold
-forth to me beside camp fires on the subject of these
-adventures, could not make out why his eagerly coveted
-quarry had become so scarce. Every other species of
-“big game” was well represented, however, and according
-to the time of the year I enjoyed ever fresh opportunities
-for observation. Generally speaking, it would be a case
-of watching one aspect of wild life one day and another all
-the next, but now and again my eyes and ears would be
-surfeited and bewildered by its manifestations. The sketch-plans
-on which I used to record my day’s doings and
-seeings serve now to recall to me all the multiform
-experiences that fell to my lot. What a pity it is that the
-old explorers of South Africa have left no such memoranda
-behind them for our benefit! They would enable us to
-form a better idea of things than we can derive from any
-kind of pictures or descriptions.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>I shall try now to give some notion of all the different
-sights I would sometimes come upon in a single day. It
-would often happen that, as I was making my way down the
-Pangani in my light folding craft, or else was setting out for
-the velt which generally lay beyond its girdle of brushwood,
-showers of rain would have drawn herds of elephants down
-from the mountains.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">1</a> Even when I did not actually come
-within sight of them, it was always an intense enjoyment
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_339">339</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">340</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_341">341</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">342</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">343</span>
-to me to trace the immense footsteps of these nocturnal
-visitors. Perhaps the cunning animals would have already
-put several miles between my camp and their momentary
-stopping place. But their tracks afforded me always most
-interesting clues to their habits, all the more valuable by
-reason of the rare chances one has of observing them in
-daylight, when they almost always hide away in impenetrable
-thickets. What excitement there is in the stifled cry
-“Tembo!” In a moment your own eye perceives the
-unmistakable traces of the giant’s progress. The next
-thing to do is to examine into the tracks and ascertain as
-far as possible the number, age and sex of the animals.
-Then you follow them up, though generally, as I have said,
-in vain.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_031" src="images/i_031.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">CLATTER-BILLS SETTLING UPON THE BARE BRANCHES OF RIVERSIDE TREES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_032" src="images/i_032.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption"><small>CLATTER-BILLS</small> (<i><small>ANASTOMUS LAMELLIGERUS</small></i>, Tem.).</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The hunter, however, who without real hope of overtaking
-the elephants themselves yet persists in following
-up their tracks just because they have so much to tell him,
-will be all the readier to turn aside presently, enticed in
-another direction by the scarcely less notable traces of a
-herd of buffaloes. Follow these now and you will soon
-discover that they too have found safety, having made their
-way into an impenetrable morass. To make sure of this
-you must perhaps clamber up a thorny old mimosa tree,
-all alive with ants&mdash;not a very comfortable method of
-getting a bird’s-eye view. Numbers of snow-white ox-peckers
-flying about over one particular point in the great
-wilderness of reeds and rushes betray the spot in which the
-buffaloes have taken refuge.</p>
-
-<p>The great green expanse stretches out before you
-monotonously, and even in the bright sunlight you can see
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">344</span>
-no other sign of the animal life of various kinds concealed
-beneath the sea of rushes waving gently in the breeze.
-Myriads of insects, especially mosquitoes and ixodides,
-attack the invaders; the animals are few that do not
-fight shy of these morasses. They are the province of
-the elephants, which here enjoy complete security; of the
-hippopotami, whose mighty voice often resounds over them
-by day as by night; of the buffaloes, which wallow in the
-mud and pools of water to escape from their enemies the
-gadflies; and finally of the waterbuck, which are also able
-to make their way through even the deeper regions of the
-swamp. Wart-hogs also&mdash;the African equivalent of our
-own wild boars&mdash;contrive to penetrate into these regions,
-so inhospitable to mankind. We shall find no other
-representatives, however, of the big game of Africa. It is
-only in Central Africa and in the west that certain species
-of antelope frequent the swamps. In the daytime the
-elephant and the buffalo are seldom actually to be seen in
-them, nor does one often catch sight of the hippopotami,
-though they are so numerous and their voices are to be
-heard. As we grope through the borders of the swamp,
-curlew (<i>Glarcola fusca</i>, L.) flying hither and thither all
-around us, we are startled ever and anon by a sudden rush
-of bush and reed buck plunging out from their resting-places
-and speeding away from us for their life. Even
-when quite small antelopes are thus started up by the
-sound of our advance, so violent is their flight that for
-the moment we imagine that we have to deal with some
-huge and perhaps dangerous beast.</p>
-
-<p>In those spots where large pools, adorned with wonderful
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">345</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">346</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_347">347</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">348</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_349">349</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_350">350</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">351</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">352</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_353">353</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_354">354</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_355">355</span>
-water-lilies, give a kind of symmetry to the wilderness,
-we come upon such a wealth of bird-life as enables us to
-form some notion of what this may have been in Europe
-long ago under similar conditions. The splendid great
-white heron (<i>Herodias alba</i>, L., and <i>garzetta</i>, L.) and
-great flocks of the active little cow-herons (<i>Bubulcus ibis</i>, L.)
-make their appearance in company with sacred ibises and
-form a splendid picture in the landscape. Some species
-of those birds with their snow-white feathers stand out
-picturesquely against the rich green vegetation of the
-swamp. When, startled by our approach, these birds take
-to flight, and the whole air is filled by them and by the
-curlews (<i>Glareola fusca</i>, L.) that have hovered over us,
-keeping up continually their soft call, when in every direction
-we see all the swarms of other birds&mdash;sea-swallows
-(<i>Gelochelidon nilotica</i>, Hasselg.), lapwings, plovers (<i>Charadriid&aelig;</i>),
-Egyptian geese, herons, pelicans, crested cranes
-and storks&mdash;the effect upon our eyes and ears is almost
-overpowering.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_037" src="images/i_037.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A MARSHLAND VIEW. AN OSPREY IN AMONG THE REEDS&mdash;THE BIRD FOR WHOSE PROTECTION QUEEN ALEXANDRA
-OF ENGLAND HAS LATELY PLEADED.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_038" src="images/i_038.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">SNOW-WHITE HERONS MADE THEIR NESTS IN THE ACACIAS NEAR MY CAMP AND SHOWED NO MARKED TIMIDITY.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_040a" src="images/i_040a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A SINGLE PAIR OF CRESTED CRANES WERE OFTEN TO BE SEEN NEAR MY CAMP.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_040b" src="images/i_040b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A SNAKE-VULTURE. I SUCCEEDED TWICE ONLY IN SECURING A PHOTOGRAPH
-OF THIS BIRD.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_043" src="images/i_043.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">PREPARING TO SKIN A HIPPOPOTAMUS. THE PRESERVATION OF THE HIDE OF THIS SPECIMEN PROVED UNSUCCESSFUL.
-IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO PRESERVE HIPPOPOTAMUS-HIDES WITHOUT HUGE QUANTITIES OF ALUM AND SALT,
-BOTH VERY HARD TO GET IN THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA. THE SKIN OF THE HEAD IS THINNER AND MORE MANAGEABLE
-THAN THAT OF THE REST OF THE BODY.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_044" src="images/i_044.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">HIPPOPOTAMI, POPPING THEIR HEADS OR EARS AND SNOUTS UP ABOVE THE SURFACE OF THE WATER.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>How mortal lives are intertwined and interwoven! The
-ox-peckers swarm round the buffaloes and protect them
-from their pests, the ticks and other parasites. The small
-species of marsh-fowl rely upon the warning cry of the
-Egyptian geese or on the sharpness of the herons, ever on
-the alert and signalling always the lightning-like approach
-of their enemy the falcons (<i>Falco biarmicus</i>, Tem., and
-<i>F. minor</i>, Bp.). All alike have sense enough to steer clear
-of the crocodiles, which have to look to fish chiefly for their
-nourishment, like almost all the frequenters of these marshy
-regions.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_356">356</span></p>
-
-<p>The quantities of fish I have found in every pool in
-these swamps defy description&mdash;I am anxious to insist
-upon this point&mdash;and this although almost all the countless
-birds depend on them chiefly for their food. Busy
-beaks and bills ravage every pool and the whole surface
-of the lagoon-like swamp for young fish and fry. The
-herons and darters (<i>Assingha rufa</i>, Lac&egrave;p. Daud.) manage
-even to do some successful fishing in the deeper waters
-of the river. <i>And yet, in spite of all these fish-eaters, the
-river harbours almost a superabundance of fish.</i><a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">2</a></p>
-
-<p>Wandering along by the river, we take in all these
-impressions. For experiences of quite another kind, we
-have only to make for the neighbouring velt, now arid
-again and barren, and thence to ascend the steep ridges
-leading up to the tableland of Ny&iacute;ka.</p>
-
-<p>Behind us we leave the marshy region of the river
-and the morass of reeds. Before us rises Ny&iacute;ka, crudely
-yellow, and the laterite earth of the velt glowing red
-under the blazing sun. The contrast is strong between
-the watery wilderness from which we have emerged and
-these higher ranges of the velt with their strange vegetation.
-Here we shall find many species of animals that we
-should look for in vain down there below, animals that live
-differently and on scanty food up here, even in the dry
-season. The buffaloes also know where to go for fresh
-young grass even when they are in the marshes, and they
-reject the ripened green grass. The dwellers on the velt
-are only to be found amidst the lush vegetation of the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_357">357</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_358">358</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_359">359</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_360">360</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_361">361</span>
-valley at night time, when they make their way down to
-the river-side to drink.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">3</a> It is hard to realise, but they find
-all the food they need on the high velt. When you examine
-the stomachs of wild animals that you have killed, you note
-with wonder the amount of fresh grass and nourishing
-shrubs they have found to eat in what seem the barrenest
-districts. The natives of these parts show the same kind
-of resourcefulness. The Masai, for instance, succeeds most
-wonderfully in providing for the needs of his herds in regions
-which the European would call a desert. I doubt whether
-the European could ever acquire this gift. Out here on the
-velt we shall catch sight of small herds of waterbuck, never
-to be seen in the marshes. We shall see at midday, under
-the bare-looking trees, herds of Grant’s gazelles too, and
-the oryx antelope. Herds of gnus, going through with
-the strangest antics as they make off in flight, are another
-feature in the picture, while the fresh tracks of giraffes,
-eland, and ostriches tell of the presence of all these.
-Wart-hogs, a herd of zebras in the distance&mdash;like a splash
-of black&mdash;two ostrich hens, and a multitude of small game
-and birds of all descriptions add to the variety. But what
-delights the ornithologist’s eye more than anything is the
-charming sight of a golden yellow bird, now mating. Up
-it flies into the sky from the tree-top, soon to come down
-again with wings and tail outstretched, recalling our own
-singing birds. You would almost fancy it was a canary.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_362">362</span>
-Only in this one region of the velt have I come upon this
-exquisite bird (<i>Tmetothylacus tenellus</i>, Cal.), nowhere else.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_048" src="images/i_048.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption"><small>HEAD OF A HIPPOPOTAMUS</small> (<i><small>HIPPOPOTAMUS AFR. ARYSSINICUS</small></i>, Less.) <small>WHICH I ENCOUNTERED ON DRY LAND AND WHICH
-NEARLY “DID” FOR ME</small>.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_050" src="images/i_050.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">MY OLD FRIEND “NGURUMAN,” A WANDOROBO CHIEF. HIS BODY IS SEARED
-BY MANY SCARS THAT TELL OF ENCOUNTERS WITH ELEPHANTS AND LIONS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Thus would I spend day after day, getting to know
-almost all the wild denizens of East Africa, either by seeing
-them in the flesh or by studying their tracks and traces,
-cherishing more and more the wish to be able to achieve
-some record of all these beautiful phases of wild life. I
-repeat: as a rule you will carry away with you but one or
-another memory from your too brief day’s wandering, but
-there come days when a succession of marvellous pictures
-seem to be unrolled before your gaze, as in an endless
-panorama. It is the experience of one such day that I have
-tried here to place on record. Professor Moebius is right
-in what he says: “&AElig;sthetic views of animals are based not
-upon knowledge of the physiological causes of their forms,
-colouring, and methods of motion, but upon the impression
-made upon the observer by their various features and outward
-characteristics as parts of a harmonious whole. The
-more the parts combine to effect this unity and harmony,
-the more beautiful the animal seems to us.” Similarly, a
-landscape seems to me most impressive and harmonious
-when it retains all its original elements. No section of its
-flora or fauna can be removed without disturbing the
-harmony of the whole.</p>
-
-<p>Within a few years, if this be not actually the case
-already, all that I have here described so fully will no
-longer be in existence along the banks of the Pangani.
-When I myself first saw these things, often my thoughts
-went back to those distant ages when in the lands now
-known as Germany the same description of wild life was
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_363">363</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_364">364</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_365">365</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_366">366</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_367">367</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_368">368</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_369">369</span>
-extant in the river valleys, when hippopotami made their
-home in the Rhine and Main, and elephants and rhinoceroses
-still flourished.... What I saw there before me in the
-flesh I learnt to see with my mind’s eye in the long-forgotten
-past. It is the duty of any one whose good
-fortune it has been to witness such scenes of charm and
-loveliness to endeavour to leave some record of them as
-best he may, and by whatever means he has at his
-command.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_055" src="images/i_055.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">EGYPTIAN GEESE.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_056" src="images/i_056.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A WOUNDED BUFFALO.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_058" src="images/i_058.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">FACSIMILE REPRODUCTION OF ONE OF MY HUNTING RECORD-CARDS, ENUMERATING
-ALL THE DIFFERENT ANIMALS I SIGHTED ONE DAY (AUGUST 21, 1898) IN
-THE COURSE OF AN EXPEDITION IN THE VICINITY OF THE MASIMANI HILLS,
-HALF-WAY UP THE PANGANI RIVER. THE DOTTED LINE SHOWS MY ROUTE
-AND THE NUMBERS INDICATE THE SPOTS AT WHICH I CAME UPON THE VARIOUS
-SPECIES OF GAME. AT ANOTHER TIME OF THE YEAR THIS DISTRICT WOULD
-BE ENTIRELY DESTITUTE OF WILD LIFE.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_060" src="images/i_060.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A SEA-GULL.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_370">370</span></p></div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<h2 id="IX">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_061" src="images/i_061.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption">A MASAI THROWING HIS SPEAR.</span></span>
-
-IX<br />
-
-After Elephants with Wandorobo</h2>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">“Big</span> game hunting is a fine education!” With this
-opinion of Mr. H. A. Bryden I am in entire
-agreement, but I cannot assent to the dictum so often cited
-of some of the most experienced African hunters, to the
-effect that Equatorial East Africa offers the sportsman no
-adequate compensation for all the difficulties and dangers
-there to be faced.</p>
-
-<p>I cannot subscribe to this view, because to my mind
-these very difficulties and dangers impart to the sport of
-this region a fascination scarcely to be equalled in any
-other part of the world. It is only in tropical Africa that
-you will find the last splendid specimens of an order of
-wild creation surviving from other eras of the earth’s
-history. It is not to be denied that you must pay a high
-price for the joy of hunting them. That goes without
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_371">371</span>
-saying in a country where your every requisite, great and
-small, has to be carried on men’s shoulders&mdash;no other form
-of transport being available&mdash;from the moment you set foot
-within the wilderness. I am not now talking of quite short
-expeditions, but of the bigger enterprises which take the
-traveller into the interior for a period of months. I hold
-that this breaking away from all the resources of civilised
-life should be one of the sportsman’s chief incentives, and
-one of his chief enjoyments. I can, of course, quite
-understand experienced hunters taking another view.
-Many have had such serious encounters with the big
-game they have shot, and above all such unfortunate
-experiences of African climates, that they may well have
-had enough of such drawbacks.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_062" src="images/i_062.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A POWERFUL OLD HIPPOPOTAMUS ON HIS WAY TO HIS HAUNT IN THE SWAMP AT DAYBREAK.
-ONE OF MY BEST PHOTOGRAPHS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Their assertions, in any case, tend to make it clear that
-sport in this East African wilderness is no child’s play.
-In reality, all depends upon the character and equipment
-of the man who goes in for it. The apparently difficult
-game of tennis presents no difficulties to the expert tennis-player.
-With an inferior player it is otherwise. So it is
-in regard to hunting in the tropics. It is obvious that
-experience in sport here at home is of the greatest possible
-use out there&mdash;is, in fact, absolutely essential to one’s
-success. Only those should attempt it who are prepared
-to do everything and cope with all obstacles for themselves,
-who do not need to rely on others, and whose nerves are
-proof against the extraordinary excitements and strains
-which out there are your daily experience.</p>
-
-<p>I myself am conscious of a steadily increasing distaste
-for face-to-face encounters with rhinoceroses, and with
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_372">372</span>
-elephants still more. There are indeed other denizens
-of the East African jungle whose defensive and offensive
-capabilities it would be no less a mistake to under estimate.
-The most experienced and most authoritative Anglo-Saxon
-sportsmen are, in fact, agreed that, whether it be a question
-of going-after lions or leopards or African buffaloes, sooner
-or later the luck goes against the hunter. Of recent years
-a large number of good shots have lost their lives in Africa.
-If one of these animals once gets at you, you are as good
-as dead. To be chased by an African elephant is as
-exciting a sensation as a man could wish for. The fierceness
-of his on-rush passes description. He makes for you
-suddenly, unexpectedly. The overpowering proportions of
-the enraged beast&mdash;the grotesque aspect of his immense
-flapping ears, which make his huge head look more
-formidable than ever&mdash;the incredible pace at which he
-thunders along&mdash;all combine with his shrill trumpeting to
-produce an effect upon the mind of the hunter, now turned
-quarry, which he will never shake himself rid of as long as life
-lasts. When&mdash;as happened once to me&mdash;it is a case not of
-one single elephant, but of an entire herd giving chase in
-the open plain (as described in <i>With Flashlight and Rifle</i>),
-the reader will have no difficulty in understanding that
-even now I sometimes live the whole situation over again
-in my dreams and that I have more than once awoke from
-them in a frenzy of terror.</p>
-
-<p>Of course, a man becomes hardened in regard to hunting
-accidents in course of time, especially if all his adventures
-have had fortunate issues. When, however, a man has
-repeatedly escaped destruction by a hairs-breadth only, and
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_373">373</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_374">374</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_375">375</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_376">376</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_377">377</span>
-when incidents of this kind have been heaped up one on
-another within a brief space of time, the effects upon the
-nervous system become so great that even with the utmost
-self-mastery a man ceases to be able to bear them. As
-I have already said, the total number of casualties in the
-ranks of African sportsmen is not inconsiderable.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_067a" src="images/i_067a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">ORYX ANTELOPE BULL, NOT YET AWARE OF MY APPROACH.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_067b" src="images/i_067b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption"><small>A HERD OF ORYX ANTELOPES</small> (<i><small>ORIX CALLOTIS</small></i>, Thos.), <small>CALLED BY THE
-COAST-FOLK “CHIROA.”</small></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_068a" src="images/i_068a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">WATERBUCK. THEY SOMETIMES LOOK QUITE BLACK, AS THIS PHOTOGRAPH
-SUGGESTS. IT DEPENDS UPON THE LIGHT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_068b" src="images/i_068b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption"><small>HEAD OF A BULL WATERBUCK</small> (<i><small>COBUS ELLIPSIPRYMNUS</small></i>, Ogilb.).</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>In Germany, of course, we have time-honoured sports
-of a dangerous nature too, but these are exceptions&mdash;for
-instance, killing the wild boar with a spear, and mountain-climbing
-and stalking.</p>
-
-<p>In order to understand fully the mental condition of the
-sportsman in dangerous circumstances such as I have
-described, it is necessary to realise the way in which he
-is affected by his loneliness, his complete severance from
-the rest of mankind. There is all the difference in the
-world between the situation of a number of men taking
-up a post of danger side by side, and that of the man who
-stands by himself, either at the call of duty or impelled
-by a sense of daring. He has to struggle with thoughts
-and fears against which the others are sustained by mutual
-example and encouragement.</p>
-
-<p>But, as I have said, the great fascination of sport in
-the tropics lies precisely in the dangers attached. Therein,
-too, lies the source of that pluck and vigour which the
-sport-hardened Boers displayed in their struggles with
-the English. The perils they had faced in their pursuit
-of big game had made brave men of them.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>Now let us set out in company with the most expert
-hunters of the velt on an expedition of a rather special
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_378">378</span>
-kind&mdash;the most dangerous you can go in for in this part
-of the world&mdash;an elephant-hunt. In prehistoric days the
-mammoth was hunted with bow and arrow in almost the
-same fashion as the elephant is to-day by certain tribes
-of natives. Taking part in one of their expeditions, one
-feels it easy to go back in imagination to the early eras
-of mankind. This feeling imparts a peculiar fascination
-to the experience.</p>
-
-<p>After a good deal of trouble I had got into friendly
-relations with some of these nomadic hunters. It was a
-difficult matter, because they fight shy of Europeans and
-of the natives from the coast, such as my bearers and
-followers generally. I knew, moreover, that our friendship
-might be of short duration, for these distrustful children
-of the velt might disappear at any moment, leaving not
-a trace behind them. However, I had at least succeeded,
-by promises of rich rewards in the shape of iron and brass
-wire, in winning their goodwill. After many days of
-negotiation they told me that elephants might very likely
-be met with shortly in a certain distant part of the velt.
-The region in question was impracticable for a large
-caravan. Water is very scarce there, rock pools affording
-only enough for a few men, and only for a short time.
-At this period of the year the animals had either to make
-incredibly long journeys to their drinking-places, or else
-content themselves with the fresh succulent grass sprouting
-up after the rains, and with the moisture in the young
-leaves of the trees and bushes.</p>
-
-<p>I set out one day in the early morning for this locality
-with a few of my men in company with the Wandorobo.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_379">379</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_380">380</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_381">381</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_382">382</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_383">383</span>
-After a long and fatiguing march in the heat of the sun,
-we encamp in the evening at one of the watering-places.
-To-day, to my surprise, there is quite a large supply of
-water, owing to rain last night. The elephants, with their
-unfailing instinct, have discovered the precious liquid. They
-have not merely drunk in the pool, but have also enjoyed a
-bath; their tracks and the colour and condition of the
-water show that clearly. Therefore we do not pitch our
-camp near the pool, but out in the velt at some distance
-away, so as not to interfere with the elephants in case they
-should be moved to return to the water.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_073" src="images/i_073.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">MY WANDOROBO GUIDES ON THE MARCH, WITH ALL THEIR “HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE” ON THEIR BACKS!</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_074" src="images/i_074.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A PARTY OF WANDOROBO HUNTERS COMING TO MY CAMP. I GOT SEVERAL OF THEM TO ACT FOR ME AS GUIDES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>But the wily beasts do not come a second time, and we
-are obliged to await morning to follow their tracks in
-the hope of luck. The Wandorobo on ahead, I and two
-of my men following, make up the small caravan, while
-some of my other followers remain behind at the watering-place
-in a rough camp. I have provided myself with all
-essentials for two or three days, including a supply of
-water contained in double-lined water-tight sacks. For
-hour after hour we follow the tracks clearly defined upon
-the still damp surface of the velt. Presently they lead us
-through endless stretches of shrubs and acacia bushes and
-bow-string hemp, then through the dried-up beds of rain-pools
-now sprouting here and there with luxuriant vegetation.
-Then again we come to stretches of scorched grass,
-featureless save for the footsteps of the elephants. As we
-advance I am enabled to note how the animals feed themselves
-in this desert-like region, from which they never
-wander any great distance. Here, stamping with their
-mighty feet, they have smashed some young tree-trunks
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_384">384</span>
-and shorn them of their twigs and branches; and there,
-with their trunks and tusks, they have torn the bark off
-larger trees in long strips or wider slices and consumed
-them. I observe, too, that they have torn the long sword-shaped
-hemp-stalks out of the ground, and after chewing
-them have dropped the fibres gleaming white where
-they lie in the sun. The sap in this plant is clearly
-food as well as drink to them. I see, too, that at certain
-points the elephants have gathered together for a while
-under an acacia tree, and have broken and devoured all
-its lower branches and twigs. At other places it is clear
-that they have made a longer halt, from the way in which
-the vegetation all around has been reduced to nothing.
-We go on and on, the mighty footsteps keeping us absorbed
-and excited. We know that the chances are all against
-our overtaking the elephants, but the pleasures of the chase
-are enough to keep up our zest. At any moment, perhaps,
-we may come up with our gigantic fugitives. Perhaps!</p>
-
-<p>How different is the elephant’s case in Africa from
-what it is in India and Ceylon! In India it is almost
-a sacred animal; in Ceylon it is carefully guarded, and
-there is no uncertainty as to the way in which it will
-be killed. Here in Africa, however, its lot is to be the
-most sought-after big game on the face of the earth; but
-the hunter has to remember that he may be “hoist with his
-own petard,” for the elephant is ready for the fray and
-knows what awaits him. With these thoughts in my mind
-and the way clearer at every step, the Wandorobo move
-on and on unceasingly in front.</p>
-
-<p>It is astonishing what a small supply of arms and
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_385">385</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_386">386</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_387">387</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_388">388</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_389">389</span>
-utensils these sons of the velt take with them when
-starting out for journeys over Ny&iacute;ka that may take weeks
-or months. Round their shoulders they carry a soft
-dressed skin, and, hung obliquely, a strap to which a
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_390">390</span>
-few implements are attached, as well as a leathern pouch
-containing odds and ends. Their bow they hold in one
-hand, while their quivers, filled with poisoned arrows, are
-also fastened to their shoulders by a strap. In addition
-they carry a sword in a primitive kind of scabbard. Thus
-equipped they are ready to cope with all the dangers and
-discomforts of the velt, and succeed somehow in coming
-out of them victorious.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_079" src="images/i_079.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A FEAST OF HONEY. A HONEY-FINDER HAD LED US TO A HIVE, AND HERE MY MEN MAY BE SEEN REJOICING
-IN THE RESULTS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_080" src="images/i_080.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">ACACIA TREE DENUDED BY ELEPHANTS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_082a" src="images/i_082a.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-    <td><img id="i_082b" src="images/i_082b.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><img id="i_082c" src="images/i_082c.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><img id="i_082d" src="images/i_082d.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_082e" src="images/i_082e.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-    <td><img id="i_082f" src="images/i_082f.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr></table>
-<p class="caption">AN ORYX ANTELOPE’S METHODS OF DEFENCE.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_083" src="images/i_083.jpg" alt="" />
-
-<p class="hang"><small>A DWARF KUDU</small> (<i><small>STREPSICEROS IMBERBIS</small></i>, Blyth). <small>I HAVE NEVER YET
-SUCCEEDED IN PHOTOGRAPHING THIS ANIMAL ALIVE AND IN FREEDOM.
-SO FAR I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO PHOTOGRAPH ONLY SPECIMENS WHICH
-I HAVE SHOT.</small></p></div>
-
-<p>How thoroughly the velt is known to them&mdash;every
-corner of it! To live on the velt for any time you must
-be adapted by nature to its conditions. We Europeans
-should find it as hard to become acclimatised to it as the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_391">391</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_392">392</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_393">393</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_394">394</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_395">395</span>
-Wandorobo would to the conditions of civilised life in
-Europe. The one thing they are like us in being unable
-to forego is water&mdash;and even that they can do without for
-longer than we can. The most important factor in their
-life as hunters is their knowledge where to get water
-at the different periods of the year. Their intimate
-acquaintance with the book of the velt is something
-beyond our faculty for reading print. Our experiences in
-our recent campaigns in South-West Africa have served
-to bring home the wonderful way in which the natives
-decipher and interpret the minutest indications to be found
-in the ground of the velt and know how to shape their
-course in accordance with them.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_085a" src="images/i_085a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">ZEBRAS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_085b" src="images/i_085b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption"><small>GIRAFFE STUDIES</small> (<i><small>GIRAFFA SCHILLINGSI</small></i>, Mtsch.) <small>SECURED BY TELEPHOTO-LENS</small>.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_086a" src="images/i_086a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">ZEBRAS (<i>EQUUS BOHMI</i>) OUT ON THE OPEN VELT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_086b" src="images/i_086b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">MY MASAI DONKEYS ARRIVING IN CAMP, ESCORTED BY ARMED MEN. BEARERS ADVANCING TO MEET THEM AND TO UNBURDEN THEM
-OF THEIR LOADS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>This had already been brought home to me in the
-regions through which I had travelled. You must have
-had the experience yourself to realise the degree to which
-civilised man has unlearnt the use of his eyes and ears.
-Whether it be a question of finding one’s bearings or
-deciding in which direction to go, or of sizing up the
-elephant-herds from their tracks, or of distinguishing the
-tracks of one kind of antelope from those of another, or of
-detecting some faint trace of blood telling us that some
-animal we are after has been wounded, or of knowing
-where and when we shall come to some water, or of
-discovering a bee’s nest with honey in it&mdash;in all such matters
-the native is as clever as we are stupid. We may make
-some progress in this kind of knowledge and capability,
-but we shall always be a bad second to the native-born
-hunter of the velt.</p>
-
-<p>With such men to act as your guides you get to feel
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_396">396</span>
-that traversing Ny&iacute;ka is as safe as mountain-climbing
-under the guidance of skilled mountaineers. You get to
-feel that you cannot lose your way or get into difficulties
-about water. One reflection, however, should never be
-quite absent from your mind&mdash;that at any moment these
-guides of yours may abandon you. That misfortune has
-never happened to me, and it is not likely to happen when
-the natives are properly handled. Moreover, your friendship
-with them can sometimes be strengthened by the
-establishment of bonds of brotherhood. A time-honoured
-practice of this kind, held sacred by the natives, can be
-of the greatest benefit. I am strongly in favour of the
-observance of these praiseworthy native customs, and
-have always been most ready to go through with the
-ceremonies involved.</p>
-
-<p>I endeavour to win the goodwill of my guides by
-keeping to the pace they set&mdash;an easy matter for me.
-In every other way also I take pains to fall in with the
-ways and habits of the Wandorobo, so as to attenuate
-that feeling of antagonism which my uncivilised friends
-necessarily harbour towards the European. I owe it to
-this, perhaps, that they did their utmost to find the
-elephant-tracks for me.</p>
-
-<p>For hour after hour we continue our march, in and
-out, over velt and brushwood, coming every few hours
-to a watering-place, and meeting in the hollow of one
-valley an exceptionally large herd of oryx antelopes.
-Under cover of the brushwood, and favoured by the wind,
-I succeed in getting quite near this herd and thus in
-studying their movements close at hand.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_397">397</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_090" src="images/i_090.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">PEARL-HENS ON AN ACACIA TREE.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_398">398</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_092" src="images/i_092.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A PAIR OF GRANT’S GAZELLES TAKING TO FLIGHT.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_399">399</span></p></div>
-
-<p>In the bush, not far from these oryx antelopes, I
-come unexpectedly on a small herd of beautiful dwarf
-kudus. They take to flight, but reappear for a moment
-in a glade. This kind of sudden glimpse of these timid,
-pretty creatures is a real delight to one. Their great
-anxious eyes gaze inquiringly at the intruder, while their
-large ears stand forward in a way that gives a most
-curious aspect to their shapely heads. The colouring of
-their bodies accords in a most remarkable degree with
-their environment, and this accentuates the individuality
-of their heads, seen thus by the hunter. Off they scamper
-again now, in a series of extraordinarily long and high
-jumps, gathering speed as they go, and unexpectedly
-darting now in one direction, now in another. It is very
-exciting work tracking the fugitive kudu, and when it is
-a question of a single specimen you may very well mark
-it down in the end; but according to my own experience
-it is next to impossible to follow up a herd, for one
-animal after another breaks away from it, seeking safety
-on its own account.</p>
-
-<p>Now we come again to an open grassy stretch of
-velt. With a sudden clatter of hoofs a herd of some
-thirty zebras some hundred paces off take to flight and
-escape unhurt by us into the security of a distant thicket.
-The older animals and the leaders of the herd keep
-looking backwards anxiously with outstretched necks.
-Even in the thicket their bright colouring makes them
-discernible at this hour of the day. But our attention
-is distracted now elsewhere. Far away on the horizon
-appear the unique outlines of a herd of giraffes. The
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_400">400</span>
-timorous animals have noted our approach and are already
-making away&mdash;stopping at moments to glance at us&mdash;into
-a dense thorn-thicket. The wind favours us, so I quickly
-decide to make a detour to the right and cut them off.
-After a breathless run through the brushwood I succeed
-in getting within a few paces of one of the old members
-of the herd. This way of circumventing a herd of
-giraffes&mdash;my followers helping me by moving about all
-over the place, so as to put them off the scent&mdash;has not
-often proved successful with me, because it can only be
-managed when both wind and the formation of the country
-are in one’s favour.</p>
-
-<p>To-day I have no mind to kill the beautiful long-limbed beast,
-but it is delightful to get into such close
-touch with him. Now he is off, stepping out again,
-swinging his long tail, his immense neck dipping and
-rising like the mast of a sea-tossed ship, and the rest
-of the herd with him.</p>
-
-<p>Now, just because I have no thought of hunting,
-every kind of wild animal crosses my path! Their
-number and variety are beyond belief. We come upon
-more zebras, oryx antelopes, hartebeests, Grant’s gazelles,
-impalla antelopes; upon ostriches, guinea-fowl (<i>Numida
-reichenowi</i> and <i>Acryllium vulturinum</i>, Hardw.), and
-francolins. The recent rains seem to have conjured
-them all into existence here as though by magic.</p>
-
-<p>But everything else has to give precedence to the
-elephant-tracks, which now are all mixed up, though
-leading clearly to the next watering-place, towards which
-we are directing our steps down a way trodden quite
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_401">401</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_402">402</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_403">403</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_404">404</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_405">405</span>
-hard by animals, evidently during the last few days.
-Large numbers of rhinoceroses have trampled down this
-way to the water, but neither they nor the elephants
-are to be seen in the neighbourhood while the sun is up.
-They are too well acquainted with the habits of their
-enemy man, and they keep at a safe distance out on
-the velt. To-day, therefore, I am to catch no glimpse
-of either elephant or rhinoceros. Wherever I turn my
-eyes, however, I see other animals of all sorts&mdash;among
-others, some more big giraffes. I am not to be put off,
-however, and I decide to follow up the tracks of a number
-of the elephants, evidently males, giving myself up anew
-to the unfailing interest I find in the study of their ways,
-and confirming the observations I had already made as
-to their finding their chief nourishment on the velt in
-tree-bark and small branches.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_097a" src="images/i_097a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">GRANT’S GAZELLES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_097b" src="images/i_097b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A GOOD INSTANCE OF PROTECTIVE COLOURING. A HERD OF GRANT’S GAZELLES
-ALMOST INDISTINGUISHABLE FROM THEIR BACKGROUND OF THORN-BUSH.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_098a" src="images/i_098a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">A GRANT’S GAZELLE BUCK STANDING OUT CONSPICUOUSLY ON THE DRIED-UP
-BED OF A LAKE NOW SO INCRUSTATED WITH SALT AS TO LOOK AS
-THOUGH SNOW-COVERED.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_098b" src="images/i_098b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">FOUR GRANT’S GAZELLES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Night set in more quickly than we expected while
-we were pitching camp before sunset in a cutting in a
-thorn-thicket. Spots on which fires had recently been
-lit showed us that native hunters had been there a few
-days before, and my guides said they must have been
-the Wakamba people, keen elephant-hunters, with whom
-they live at enmity, and of whose very deadly poisoned
-arrows they stand in great dread. Therefore we drew
-close round a very small camp-fire, carefully kept down.
-The glow of a big fire might have brought the Wakamba
-people down on us if they were anywhere in the neighbourhood.
-It seems that natives who are at war often
-attack each other in the dark. It may easily be imagined,
-then, that the first hours of our “night’s repose” were
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_406">406</span>
-not as blissful as they should have been! After a time,
-however, our need of sleep prevailed, sheer physical
-fatigue overcame all our anxieties, and my Wandorobo
-slumbered in peace. They had contrived a “charm,”
-and had set up a row of chewed twigs all round to keep
-off misfortune. Unfortunately it is not so easy for a
-European to believe in the efficacy of these precautions!
-It was interesting to observe that the Wandorobo
-evinced much greater fear of the poisoned arrows of the
-Wakamba than of wild animals. In view of my subsequent
-experience, I myself in such a situation would view
-the possibility of being attacked by elephants with much
-greater alarm.</p>
-
-<p>As it happened, however, this night passed like
-many another&mdash;if not without danger, at least without
-mishap.</p>
-
-<p>Day dawned. No bird-voices greeted it, for, strange
-to relate, we found nothing but big game in this wooded
-wilderness, save for guinea-fowl (<i>Numida reichenowi</i> and
-<i>Acryllium vulturinum</i>, Hardw.) and francolins. The
-small birds seem to have known that the water would
-soon be exhausted, and that until the advent of the
-next rainy season this was no place for them.</p>
-
-<p>In the grey of early morning we made our way out
-again into the velt. We had to visit the neighbouring
-watering-places and then to follow up some fresh set of
-elephant-tracks. It turned out that some ten big bull-elephants
-had visited one of the pools, and had left what
-remained of the water a thick yellowish mud. They
-had rubbed and scoured themselves afterwards against a
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_407">407</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_408">408</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_409">409</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_410">410</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_411">411</span>
-clump of acacia trees. Judging from the marks upon
-these trees some of the elephants in this herd must have
-been more than eleven feet in height. With renewed
-zest we followed up the fresh, distinct tracks through
-the bush, through all their twistings and turnings. Again
-we came upon all kinds of other animals&mdash;among others,
-a herd of giraffes right in our path. But these were
-opportunities for the naturalist only, not for the sportsman
-who was keeping himself for the elephants and would
-not fire a shot at anything else unless in extreme danger.
-Later, at a moment when we believed ourselves to have
-got quite close to the elephants, I started an extraordinarily
-large land-tortoise&mdash;the biggest I have ever seen. I
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_412">412</span>
-could not get hold of it, however&mdash;I was too much taken
-up with the hope of reaching the elephants; but after
-several more hours of marching I had to call a halt in
-order to gather new strength. In the end we did not
-overtake them. They had evidently been seriously disquieted
-either by us or earlier by the Wakamba people.
-While we were pitching our camp in the evening, nearly
-a day’s journey from our camp of the night before, we
-sighted one after another three herds of elands and four
-rhinoceroses on their way out into the velt to graze.
-During these two days I had come within shot of about
-ten rhinoceroses while on the march, and had caught
-glimpses of many more in the distance.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_103" src="images/i_103.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">THE HERDS OF GRANT’S GAZELLES ARE SOMETIMES MADE UP ENTIRELY OF MALES, SOMETIMES ENTIRELY OF FEMALES.
-IN THIS PICTURE WE SEE A NUMBER OF YOUNG DOES IN SEARCH OF THE SCANTY FRESH GRASS ON A PORTION OF
-THE VELT WHICH NOT LONG BEFORE HAD BEEN BURNT UP.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_104" src="images/i_104.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A SMALL HERD OF GRANT’S GAZELLES. THE KILIMANJARO RANGE IN THE BACKGROUND.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_106" src="images/i_106.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">YOUNG MASAI HARTEBEEST. I DID NOT SUCCEED IN MY EFFORTS TO BRING
-BACK A SPECIMEN OF THIS SPECIES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The third day’s pursuit of the elephants also proved
-entirely fruitless. We did not even come within sight of
-a female specimen.</p>
-
-<p>My guides were now of opinion that the animals must
-be so thoroughly alarmed that any further pursuit would
-be almost certainly in vain, so we made our way back as
-best we could in a zigzag course to my main camp, and
-reached it on the morning of the fourth day.</p>
-
-<p>Most elephant-hunts in Equatorial Africa run on just
-such lines as these and with the same result, yet they are
-among the finest and most interesting experiences that
-any sportsman or naturalist can hope to have. The wealth
-of natural life that had been given to my eyes during those
-three days was simply overpowering. But if you have
-once succeeded in getting within range of an African
-elephant, all other kinds of wild animals seem small fry to
-you. You have the same kind of feeling that the German
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_413">413</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_414">414</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_415">415</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_416">416</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_417">417</span>
-sportsman has when after a <i>Brunft</i> stag&mdash;he cares for
-no other kind of game; he has no mind for anything
-but the stag. But the elephant fever attacks you out
-in Africa even more virulently than the stag fever here
-at home.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_109" src="images/i_109.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption"><small>A HERD OF HARTEBEESTS</small> (<i><small>BUBALIS COKEI</small></i>, Gthr.).</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_110a" src="images/i_110a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">HARTEBEESTS WITH YOUNG.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_110b" src="images/i_110b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">WATERBUCK.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Yet it is fine to remember one’s ordinary shooting
-expeditions in the tropics. You need some luck, of course&mdash;the
-velt is illimitable and the game scattered all over
-it. But if the rains have just ceased, if you have
-secured good guides, if you yourself are equal to facing all
-the hardships, then indeed it is a wonderful experience.
-There is no doubt about it&mdash;you have to be ready for a
-combination of every kind of strain and exertion. You can
-stand it for a day perhaps, or two or three, but you must
-then take a rest. The man who has gone through with
-this may venture on the experiment of pursuing elephants
-for several days together. He will, I think, bear me out
-in saying that until you have done that also you do not
-know the limits of endurance and fatigue.</p>
-
-<p>The most glorious hour in the African sportsman’s life
-is that in which he bags a bull-elephant. When he
-succeeds in bringing the animal down at close range in a
-thicket such as I have so often described, his heart beats
-with delight&mdash;it is just a chance in such cases what your
-fate may be. Wide as are the differences in the views
-taken by experienced travellers and by other writers in
-regard to African sport in general, they are all agreed
-that elephant-hunting is the most dangerous task a man
-can set himself. The hunting of Indian or Ceylon
-elephants&mdash;save in the case of a “rogue”&mdash;is not to be
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_418">418</span>
-compared with the African sport as I understand it. I
-do not mean the easy-going, pleasure-excursion kind of
-hunt ordinarily gone in for in the African bush, but a
-one-man expedition, in which the sportsman sets himself
-deliberately to bag his game single-handed. That, indeed,
-is my idea of how one should go after big game in such
-countries as Africa in all circumstances whatever.</p>
-
-<p>Barely as many as a dozen elephants have fallen to
-my rifle. Some of these I killed in order to try and get
-hold of a young specimen which I might bring to Europe
-in good condition&mdash;a desire which I have long cherished,
-but which has not yet been fulfilled. Others I killed so
-that I might present them to our museums.</p>
-
-<p>There were immense numbers of other bull-elephants
-that I might have shot, and that are probably now roaming
-the velt, but that I had to spare because I was more
-intent upon photographing them. My photographs are,
-however, ample compensation to me. While, too, it is
-pleasant to me to reflect that I have left untouched so
-many elephants that came within easy range, I hope, none
-the less, some day to bring down a specimen adorned with
-a really splendid pair of tusks. This is an aspiration not
-often realised by African sportsmen, even when they
-have been hunting for half a lifetime. Elephants with
-tusks weighing nearly five hundred pounds, like those
-in our illustration, are extremely rare&mdash;even in earlier
-times they were met with perhaps once in a hundred
-years.</p>
-
-<p>The hunting of an African elephant, I repeat in
-conclusion, is a source of the greatest delight to the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_419">419</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_420">420</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_421">421</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_422">422</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_423">423</span>
-sportsman, for even if he does not bag his game he is
-well rewarded for his pains by all the interest and excitement
-of the chase. But no one who has not himself gone
-through with it can estimate what it involves. Even with
-the most perfected equipment in regard to arms, it is often
-a matter of luck whether you kill the animal outright and
-on the spot.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_113" src="images/i_113.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">THE SKINNING OF AN ELEPHANT. THIS SPECIMEN IS NOW IN THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, BERLIN.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_114" src="images/i_114.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">PREPARING TO SKIN AN ELEPHANT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>An experience I had in the Berlin Zoological Gardens
-illustrates this. I was called in to dispatch a huge bull-elephant
-which had to be killed, and which had rejected
-all the forms of poison that had been administered to it.
-In order to give it a quick and painless end I selected a
-newly invented elephant-rifle, calibre 10&middot;75, loaded with
-4 gr. of smokeless powder and a steel-capped bullet. On
-reflection the steel cap seemed to me too dangerous in
-the circumstances, so I had it filed off. I shall allow
-Professor Schmalz to describe what now happened: “The
-first shot entered the skin between the second and third
-ribs, and then simply went into splinters. It did no
-serious damage to the interior organs, and a stag thus
-wounded would merely take madly to flight. A piece of
-the cap reached the lung, but only a single splinter
-had penetrated, causing a slight flow of blood. The
-second shot was excellently placed, namely just below
-the root of the lung. It lacerated both the lung
-arteries and both the bronchial, and thus caused instant
-death.”</p>
-
-<p>The fact that, with such a charge, a bullet fired at a
-distance of less than four yards should have gone into
-splinters in this way says more than one could in a long
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_424">424</span>
-disquisition, and serves to explain the secret of many
-a mishap in the African wilderness.<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">4</a></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_117" src="images/i_117.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A MISSIONARY’S DWELLING NEAR KILIMANJARO IN WHICH I STAYED SEVERAL
-TIMES AS GUEST.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_425">425</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_426">426</span></p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_119" src="images/i_119.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">HEAD OF A BULL-ELEPHANT KILLED BY THE AUTHOR. NOW IN THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, BERLIN.]
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_427">427</span></p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_120" src="images/i_120.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A FINE SPECIMEN OF A BULL-ELEPHANT KILLED BY THE AUTHOR.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_428">428</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_429">429</span></p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_122" src="images/i_122.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">SOME AFRICAN TROPHIES. 1. SPLINTER FROM AN ELEPHANT-TUSK BROKEN OFF IN A ROCKY REGION. 2. PORTION OF A
-TREE BRANCH WHICH I FOUND STUCK IN THE JAW OF A CAPTURED LION. 3. PORTION OF A POISONED ARROW WHICH
-HAD BEEN STICKING IN AN ELEPHANT THAT I WAS TRACKING; ARROW OF THE KIND USED BY THE WAKAMBA HUNTERS.
-4. NICKEL BULLET, PUT OUT OF SHAPE, WITH WHICH I BROUGHT DOWN AN ELEPHANT. 5. IRON BULLET USED BY
-A NATIVE. 6. POISONED DART FOUND STICKING IN THE WING OF A MARABOU.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_430">430</span></p></div>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_431">431</span></p>
-
-<h2 id="X">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_124" src="images/i_124.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption"><small>BLACK-HEADED HERONS</small> (<i><small>ARDEA MELANOCEPHALA</small></i>. <small>VIG.</small> Childr.).</span>
-</span>
-
-X<br />
-
-Rhinoceros-hunting</h2>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">Many</span> sportsmen of to-day have no idea what
-numbers of rhinoceroses there used to be in
-Germany in those distant epochs when the cave-dweller
-waged war with his primitive weapons against all the
-mighty animals of old&mdash;a war that came in the course
-of the centuries to take the shape of our modern sport.</p>
-
-<p>The visitor to the zoological gardens, who knows
-nothing of “big game,” finds it hard perhaps to think
-of the great unwieldy “rhino” in this capacity. Yet I
-am continually being asked to tell about other experiences
-of my rhinoceros-hunting. I have given some already
-in <i>With Flashlight and Rifle</i>. Let me, then, devote
-this chapter to an account of some expeditions after the
-two-horned African rhinoceros&mdash;one of the most interesting,
-powerful, and dangerous beasts still living.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_432">432</span></p>
-
-<p>Rhinoceroses used to be set to fight with elephants
-in the arena in Rome in the time of the Emperors. It is
-interesting to note that, according to what I have often
-heard from natives, the two species have a marked
-antipathy to each other. It is recorded that both Indian
-and African rhinoceroses used to be brought to Europe
-alive. In our own days they are the greatest rarities in
-the animal market, and must be almost worth their weight
-in gold. Specimens of the three Indian varieties are now
-scarcely to be found, while the huge white rhinoceros
-of South Africa is almost extinct. The two-horned
-rhinoceros of East Africa is the only variety still to be
-met with in large numbers, and this also is on its way
-swiftly to extermination.</p>
-
-<p>The kind of hunt I am going to tell of belongs to
-quite a primeval type, such as but few modern sportsmen
-have taken part in. But it will be a hunt with modern
-arms. It must have been a still finer thing to go after
-the great beast, as of old, spear in hand. That is a
-feeling I have always had. There is too little romance,
-too much mechanism, about our equipment. In this
-respect there is a great change from the kind of hunting
-known to antiquity.</p>
-
-<p>It was strength pitted against strength then. Strength
-and skill and swiftness were what won men the day.
-Later came a time when mankind learnt a lesson from
-the serpent and improved on it, discharging poisoned
-darts from tightened bow-strings. The slightest wound
-from them brought death. Then there was another step
-in advance, and the hunter brought down his game at
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_433">433</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_434">434</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_435">435</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_436">436</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_437">437</span>
-even greater ranges with bullets of lead and steel. A
-glance through the telescopic sight affixed to the perfected
-rifle of to-day, a gentle pressure with the finger, and the
-rhinoceros, all unconscious of its enemy in the distance,
-meets its end.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_127a" src="images/i_127a.jpg" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_127b" src="images/i_127b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">RHINOCEROS HEADS.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_128a" src="images/i_128a.jpg" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_128b" src="images/i_128b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">RHINOCEROS HEADS.</p></div>
-
-<p>But there is at least more danger and more romance
-for the modern hunter in this unequal strife when it takes
-place in a wilderness where bush and brushwood enforce a
-fight at close quarters. Then, if he doesn’t kill his beast
-outright on the spot, or if he has to deal with several
-at a time, the bravest man’s heart will have good reason
-to beat fast.</p>
-
-<p>Now for our start.</p>
-
-<p>We make our way up the side of a hill with the first
-rays of the tropical sun striking hot already on the earth.
-The country is wild, the ascent is difficult, and we have
-to dodge now this way, now that, to extricate ourselves
-from the rocky valley into which we have got. The
-vegetation all around us is rank and strange; strong grass
-up to our knees, and dense creepers and thorn-bushes
-retard our progress. Here are the mouldering trunks of
-giant trees uprooted by the wind, there living trees standing
-strong and unshaken. But as we advance we come
-gradually to a more arid stretch, and green vegetation
-gives place to a rocky region, broken into crevices and
-chasms. Here we find the rock-badger in hundreds.
-But the leaders have given their warning sort of whistle,
-and they are all off like lightning. It may be quite a
-long time before they reappear from the nooks and
-crannies to which they have fled. Lizards share these
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_438">438</span>
-localities with them, and seem to exchange warnings
-of coming danger. A francolin flies up in front of
-us with a clatter of wings, reminding one very much
-of our own beautiful heath-cock. The “cliff-springer”
-that miniature African chamois, one of the loveliest
-of all the denizens of the wilderness, sometimes puts in
-an appearance too. It is a mystery how it manages
-to dart about from ridge to ridge as lightly as an india-rubber
-ball. If you examine through your field-glasses,
-you discover to your astonishment that they do not
-rest on their dainty hoofs like others of their kind, nor
-can they move about on them in the same fashion. They
-can only stand on the extreme points of them. It looks
-almost as though nature were trying to free a mammal
-from its bonds to mother earth, when you see the “cliff-springer”
-fly through the air from rock to rock. It would
-not astonish you to find that it had wings. Now here,
-now there, you hear its note of alarm, and then catch
-sight of it. It would be difficult to descry these animals
-at all, only that there are generally several of them
-together.... Deep-trodden paths of elephants and
-rhinoceroses cut through the wooded wilderness; paths
-used also by the heavy elands, which are fitted for
-existence alike in the deep valleys and high up on the
-highest mountain. I myself found their tracks at a height
-of over 6,000 feet, and so have all African mountain-climbers
-worthy of the name, from Hans Meyer, the first man to
-ascend Kilimanjaro, down to Uhlig, who, on the occasion
-of his latest expedition up to the Kibo, noted the presence
-of this giant among antelopes at a height of 15,000 feet.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_132" src="images/i_132.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption"><small>AN ELAND BULL</small> (<i><small>OREAS LIVINGSTONI</small></i>, Sclat.). <small>I MANAGED TO PREPARE THIS ANIMAL’S SKIN SUCCESSFULLY,
-AND IT MAY NOW BE SEEN IN FLAWLESS CONDITION IN THE BERLIN NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM.</small>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_439">439</span></p></div>
-
-<p>It is strange to contrast the general disappearance of
-big game in all other parts of the earth with their endless
-profusion in those regions which the European has not
-yet opened out. I feel that it sounds almost incredible
-when I talk of having sighted hundreds of rhinoceroses
-with my own eyes: incredible to the average man, I mean,
-not to the student of such matters. Not until the mighty
-animal has been exterminated will the facts of its existence&mdash;in
-what numbers it throve, how it lived and how it
-came to die&mdash;become known to the public through its
-biographer. We have no time to trouble about the living
-nowadays.</p>
-
-<p>For weeks I had not hunted a rhinoceros&mdash;I had had
-enough of them. I had need of none but very powerful
-specimens for my collection, and these were no more
-to be met with every day than a really fine roebuck in
-Germany. It is no mean achievement for the German
-sportsman to bag a really valuable roebuck. There are
-too many sportsmen competing for the prize&mdash;there must
-be more than half a million of us in all!</p>
-
-<p>It is the same with really fine specimens of the two-horned
-bull-rhinoceros. It is curious, by the way, to note
-that, as with so many other kinds of wild animals, the
-cow-rhinoceros is furnished with longer and more striking-looking
-horns than the bull, though the latter’s are thicker
-and stronger, and in this respect more imposing. The
-length of the horns of a full-grown cow-rhinoceros in
-East Africa is sometimes enormous&mdash;surpassed only by
-those of the white rhinoceroses of the South, now
-almost extinct. The British Museum contains specimens
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_440">440</span>
-measuring as much as 53&frac12; inches. I remember well the
-doubts I entertained about a 54-inch horn which I saw
-on sale in Zanzibar ten years ago, and was tempted to
-buy. Such a growth seemed to me then incredible, and
-several old residents who ought to have known something
-about it fortified me in my belief that the Indian dealer
-had “faked” it somehow, and increased its length
-artificially. It might still be lying in his dimly lit shop
-instead of forming part of my collection, only that on my
-first expedition into the interior I saw for myself other
-rhinoceroses with horns almost as long, and on returning
-to Zanzibar at once effected its purchase. A second horn
-of equal length, but already half decayed when it was
-found on the velt, came into my possession through
-the kindness of a friend. I myself killed one cow-rhinoceros
-with very remarkable horns, but not so long
-as these.</p>
-
-<p>There is something peculiarly formidable and menacing
-about these weapons of the rhinoceros. Not that they
-really make him a more dangerous customer for the
-sportsman to tackle, but they certainly give that impression.
-The thought of being impaled, run through, by that
-ferocious dagger is by no means pleasant.</p>
-
-<p>In something of the same way, a stag with splendid
-antlers, a great maned lion, or a tremendous bull-elephant
-sends up the sportsman’s zest to fever-pitch.</p>
-
-<p>It is astonishing how the colossal beast manages to
-plunge its way through the densest thicket despite the
-hindrance of its great horns. It does so by keeping its
-head well raised, so that the horn almost presses against
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_441">441</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_442">442</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_443">443</span>
-the back of its massive neck, very much after the style of
-our European stag. But it is a riddle, in both cases, how
-they seem to be impeded so little.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_138" src="images/i_138.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">AN ELAND, JUST BEFORE I GAVE IT A FINISHING SHOT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I felt nearly sure that I could count on finding some
-gamesome old rhinoceroses up among the mountains, and
-my Wandorobo guides kept declaring that I should see
-some extraordinary horns. They were not wrong.</p>
-
-<p>I strongly advise any one who contemplates betaking
-himself to the velt after big game to set about the
-enterprise in the true sporting spirit, making of it a really
-genuine contest between man and beast&mdash;a genuine duel&mdash;not
-an onslaught of the many upon the one. Many
-English writers support me in this, and they understand
-the claims of sport in this field as well as we Germans do
-at home. The English have instituted clearly defined
-rules which no sportsman may transgress. In truth, it
-is a lamentable thing to see the <i>Sonntagsj&auml;ger</i> importing
-himself with his unaccustomed rifle amid the wild life of
-Africa!</p>
-
-<p>I shall always look back with satisfaction to the great
-Sch&ouml;ller expedition which I accompanied for some time
-in 1896. Not one of the natives, not one of the soldiers,
-ventured to shoot a single head of game throughout that
-expedition, even in those regions which until then had
-never been explored by Europeans. The most rigid
-control was exercised over them from start to finish. I
-have good grounds for saying that this spirit has prevailed
-far too little as a general thing in Africa.</p>
-
-<p>I have invariably maintained discipline among my own
-followers, and they have always submitted to it. How
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_444">444</span>
-difficult it is to deal with them, however, may be gathered
-from the following incident which I find recorded in
-my diary.</p>
-
-<p>On the occasion of my last journey, a black soldier,
-an Askari, had been told off to attach himself for a time
-to my caravan. Presently I had to send him back to
-the military station at Kilimanjaro with a message. A
-number of my followers accompanied him, partly to fetch
-goods, etc., from my main camp, partly on various other
-missions that had to be attended to before we advanced
-farther into the velt. The Askari was provided, as usual,
-with a certain number of cartridges. When my men
-returned, a considerable time afterwards, I discovered quite
-accidentally that one of them bore marks on his body of
-having been brutally lashed with a whip. His back was
-covered with scars and open wounds. After the long-suffering
-manner of his kind, he had said nothing to me
-about it until his condition was revealed to me by chance&mdash;for,
-as he was only one of the hundred and fifty attached
-to my expedition, I might never have noticed it. It
-transpired that not long after he had set out the Askari,
-against orders, had shot big game and, among other
-animals, had bagged a giraffe, whose head&mdash;a valuable
-trophy&mdash;he had forced my bearers to carry for him to the
-fort. The particular bearer in question had quite rightly
-refused, whereupon the Askari had thrashed him most
-barbarously with a hippopotamus-hide whip&mdash;a <i>sjambok</i>.
-I need hardly say that he was suitably punished for this
-when I lodged a formal complaint against him. Had it
-not been for his ill-treatment of my bearer, however, I
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_445">445</span>
-should never have heard of the Askari’s shooting the
-giraffe, for he had succeeded in terrorising all the men
-into silence.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_142" src="images/i_142.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">AN ELAND BULL, THE LEADER OF A HERD WHICH AT THE MOMENT OF THIS
-PHOTOGRAPH WAS IN CONCEALMENT BEHIND THE THORN-BUSHES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Now we move onwards, following the rhinoceros-tracks
-up the hill-slopes, where they are clearly marked, and in
-among the steep ridges, until they elude us for a while
-in the wilderness. Presently we perceive not merely a
-hollowed-out path wrought in the soft stone by the
-tramplings of centuries, but also fresh traces of rhinoceroses
-that must have been left this very day. We are in for a
-first-rate hunt.</p>
-
-<p>We have reached the higher ranges of the hills and are
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_446">446</span>
-looking down upon the extensive, scantily-wooded slopes.
-Are we going to bag our game to-day?</p>
-
-<p>I could produce an African day-book made up of
-high hopes and disappointments. Not, indeed, that returning
-empty-handed meant ill-humour and disappointment,
-or that I expected invariable good luck. But a day
-out in the tropics counts for at least a week in Europe, and
-I like to make the most of it. Then, too, I had to reserve
-my hunting for those hours when I could give myself up
-to it body and soul. How often while I have been on the
-march at the head of heavily laden caravans have the most
-tempting opportunities presented themselves to me, only
-to be resisted&mdash;fine chances for the record-breaker and
-irresponsible shot, but merely tantalising to me!</p>
-
-<p>On we go through the wilderness, still upwards. I am
-the first European in these regions, which have much of
-novelty for my eyes. The great lichen-hung trees, the
-dense jungle, the wide plains, all charm me. The heat
-becomes more and more oppressive, and I and my
-followers are beginning to feel its effects. We are wearying
-for a halt, but we must lose no time, for we have still
-a long way before us, whether we return to our main camp
-or press onwards to that wooded hollow yonder, four hours’
-march away, there to spend the night.</p>
-
-<p>A vast panorama has been opening out in front of us.
-We have reached the summit of this first range of hills,
-and are looking down on another deep and extensive valley.
-My field-glasses enable me to descry in the far distance
-a herd of eland making their way down the hill, and two
-bush-buck grazing hard by a thicket. But these have
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_447">447</span>
-no interest for us to-day: we are in pursuit of bigger
-game. Suddenly, an hour later, my men become excited.
-“Pharu, bwana!” they whisper to me from behind,
-pointing down towards a group of acacia trees on a plateau
-a few hundred paces away. True enough, there are two
-rhinoceroses. I perceive first one, then the other lumbering
-along, looking, doubtless, for a suitable resting-place. My
-field-glasses tell me that they are a pair, male and female,
-both furnished with big horns. Now for my plan of
-campaign. I have to make a wide circuit which will take
-me twenty-five minutes, moving over difficult ground.</p>
-
-<p>Arrived at the point in question, I rejoice to see that
-the animals have not got far away from where I first spied
-them. The wind is favourable to me here, and there is
-little danger at this hour of its suddenly veering round.
-I examine my rifle carefully. It seems all right. My men
-crouch down by my order, and I advance stealthily alone.</p>
-
-<p>I am under a spell now. The rest of the world has
-vanished from my consciousness. I look neither to right
-nor left. I have no thought for anything but my quarry
-and my gun. What will the beasts do? Will this be
-my last appearance as a hunter of big game? Is the
-rhinoceros family at last to have its revenge?</p>
-
-<p>I have another look at them through my field-glasses.
-The bull has really fine horns; the cow good enough,
-but nothing special. I decide therefore to secure him
-alone if possible, for his flesh will provide food in plenty
-for my men. On I move, as noiselessly as possible,
-the wind still in my favour. Up on these heights the
-rhinoceroses miss their watchful friends the ox-peckers,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_448">448</span>
-so faithful to them elsewhere, to put them on their
-guard.</p>
-
-<p>Often have my followers warned me of the presence
-of a “Ndege baya”&mdash;a bird of evil omen. Many of
-the African tribes seem to share the old superstitions
-of the Romans in regard to birds. Certainly one cannot
-help being impressed by the way in which the ox-peckers
-suddenly whizz through the air whenever one gets within
-range of buffalo or hippopotami.</p>
-
-<p>The unexpected happens. The two huge beasts&mdash;how,
-I cannot tell&mdash;have become aware of my approach. As
-though moved by a common impulse, they swing round
-and stand for a moment motionless, as though carved in
-stone, their heads turned towards me.... They are two
-hundred paces away. Now I must show myself. Two
-things can happen: either they will both come for me
-full pelt, or else they will seek safety in flight. An instant
-later they are thundering down on me in their unwieldy
-fashion, but at an incredible pace. These are moments
-when your life hangs by a thread. Nothing can save
-you but a well-aimed bullet. This time my bullet finds
-its billet. It penetrates the neck of the leading animal&mdash;the
-cow, as always is the case&mdash;which, tumbling head
-foremost, just like a hare, drops as though dead. A
-wonderful sight, lasting but a second. The bull pulls up
-short, hesitates a moment, then swerves round, and with
-a wild snort goes tearing down the hill and out of sight.
-I keep my rifle levelled still at the female rhinoceros, for
-I have known cases when an animal has got up again
-suddenly, though mortally wounded, and done damage.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_449">449</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_450">450</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_451">451</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_452">452</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_453">453</span>
-But on this occasion the precaution proves needless. The
-bullet has done its work, and I become the possessor of
-two very fair specimens of rhinoceros horns.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_147" src="images/i_147.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">RHINOCEROSES SHED THEIR HORNS FROM TIME TO TIME AND DEVELOP NEW ONES. THE COW-RHINOCEROS IN THIS
-PHOTOGRAPH HAD SHED BOTH OF HERS. THE RHINOCEROS WHICH I BROUGHT HOME AND PRESENTED TO THE BERLIN
-ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS HAS RENEWED HER FRONT HORN SEVERAL TIMES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_148" src="images/i_148.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A GOOD SPECIMEN.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>It was scarcely to be imagined that in the course of
-this same day I was to get within range of eight more
-rhinoceroses. It is hard to realise what numbers of them
-there are in these mountainous regions. It is a puzzle
-to me that this fact has not been proclaimed abroad in
-sporting books and become known to everybody. But
-then, what did we know, until a few years ago, of the
-existence of the okapi in Central Africa? How much
-do we know even now of its numbers? For that matter,
-who can tell us anything definite as to the quantities
-of walruses in the north, or the numbers of yaks in the
-Thibetan uplands, or of elks and of bears in the impenetrable
-Alaskan woods?</p>
-
-<p>It seems to be the fate of the larger animals to be
-exterminated by traders who do not give away their
-knowledge of the resources of the hunting regions which
-they exploit. English and American authors, among them
-so high an authority as President Roosevelt, bear me
-out in this. I remember reading as a boy of a traveller,
-a fur-trader, who happened to hear of certain remote
-northern islands well stocked with the wild life he wanted.
-He kept the information to himself, and made a fortune
-out of the game he bagged; but when he quitted the
-islands their entire fauna had been wiped out. The same
-thing is now happening in Africa. Our only clue to the
-extent of the slaughtering of elephants now being carried
-on is furnished by the immense quantities of ivory that
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_454">454</span>
-come on the market. So it is, too, with the slaughtering
-of whales and seals for the purposes of commerce. It
-is with them as with so many men&mdash;we shall begin to
-hear of them when they are dead.</p>
-
-<p>But to come back to our rhinoceroses. Not long
-before sunset I saw another animal grazing peacefully on
-a ridge just below me, apparently finding the short grass
-growing there entirely to his taste. The monstrous
-outlines of the great beast munching away in among
-the jagged rocks stood out most strikingly in the red
-glow of the setting sun. It would have been no good
-to me to shoot him, for all my thoughts were set on
-finding a satisfactory camping-place for the night. Soon
-afterwards I came suddenly upon two others right in my
-path&mdash;a cow with a young one very nearly full grown.
-In a moment my men, who were a little behind, had
-skedaddled behind a ridge of rocks. I myself just
-managed to spring aside in time to escape the cow,
-putting a great boulder between us. Round she came
-after me, and I realised as never before the degree to
-which a man is handicapped by his boots in attempting
-thus to dodge an animal. It was a narrow escape, but
-in this case also a well-aimed bullet did the trick. We
-left the body where it lay, intending to come back next
-morning for the horns. Some minutes later, after scurrying
-downhill for a few hundred paces as quickly as we could,
-so as to avoid being overtaken by the night, we met
-three other rhinoceroses which evidently had not heard
-my shot ring out. They were standing on a grassy
-knoll in the midst of the valley which we had now reached,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_455">455</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_456">456</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_457">457</span>
-and did not make off until they saw us. By the stream,
-near which we pitched our camp for the night, we came
-upon two more among some bushes, and yet another
-rushing through a thicket which we had to traverse on
-our way to the waterside. In the night several others
-passed down the deep-trodden path to the stream,
-fortunately heralding their approach by loud, angry-sounding
-snorts.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_152" src="images/i_152.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A SNAPSHOT AT TWENTY PACES WITH A HAND-CAMERA, WHICH I HAD TO THROW AWAY THE NEXT SECOND, FOR THE
-“RHINO” MADE FOR ME AND ONLY TURNED ASIDE WHEN IT HAD GOT WITHIN THREE PACES OF ME!</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Many such nights have I spent out in the wild; but
-I would not now go through with such experiences very
-willingly, for I have heard tell of too many mishaps
-to other travellers under such conditions. That seasoned
-Rhenish sportsman Niedieck, for instance, in his interesting
-book <i>Mit der B&uuml;chse in f&uuml;nf Weltteilen</i>, gives a
-striking account of a misadventure he met with in the
-Sudan, near the banks of the Nile. In very similar
-circumstances his camp was attacked by elephants during
-the night; he himself was badly injured, and one of his
-men nearly killed. This danger in regions where rhinoceroses
-or elephants are much hunted is by no means
-to be underestimated. Rather it should be taken to
-heart. According to the same writer, the elephants in
-Ceylon sometimes “go for” the travellers’ rest-houses
-erected by the Government and destroy them. These
-things have brought it home to me that I was in much
-greater peril of my life during those night encampments
-of mine on the velt and in primeval forests than I realised
-at the time.</p>
-
-<p>In those parts of East Africa there is a tendency to
-imagine that a zareba is not essential to safety, and that
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_458">458</span>
-a camp-fire serves all right to frighten lions away. It is
-a remarkable comment on this that over a hundred Indians
-employed on the Uganda Railway should have been seized
-by lions. In other parts of Africa even the natives are
-reluctant to go through the night unprotected by a zareba,
-because they know that lions when short of other prey
-are apt to attack human beings, and neither the hunter
-nor his camp-fire have any terrors for them.</p>
-
-<p>However that may be, the true sportsman and
-naturalist in the tropics will continue to find himself
-obliged to encamp as best he may <i>&agrave; la belle &eacute;toile</i>, trusting
-to his lucky star to protect him as he sinks wearily to
-sleep.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>The long caravan is again on the move, like a snake,
-over the velt. Word has come to me that at a distance
-of a few days’ march there has been a fall of rain. As
-by a miracle grass has sprung up, and plant-life is reborn,
-trees and bushes have put out new leaves, and immense
-numbers of wild animals have congregated in the region.
-Thither we are making our way, over stretches still arid
-and barren. Watering-places are few and far between
-and hidden away. But we know how to find them, and
-hard by one of them I have to pitch my camp for a time.</p>
-
-<p>As we go we see endless herds of animals making for
-the same goal&mdash;zebras, gnus, oryx antelopes, hartebeests,
-Grant’s gazelles, impallahs, giraffes, ostriches, as well as
-numbers of rhinoceroses, all drawn as though by magic
-to the region of the rain.</p>
-
-<p>With my taxidermist Orgeich I march at the head of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_459">459</span>
-my caravan. My camera has to remain idle, for once
-again, as so often happens, we get no sun. It would be
-useless to attempt snapshots in such unfavourable light.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_460">460</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_156" src="images/i_156.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">HOW ONE OF MY MEN SOUGHT SHELTER WHEN THE RHINOCEROS CAME FOR US.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Suddenly, at last, the entire aspect of the velt
-undergoes a change, and we have got into a stretch of
-country which has had a monopoly of the downfall. It
-is cut off quite perceptibly from the parched districts all
-around, and its fresh green aspect is refreshing and soothing
-to the eye. On and on we march for hour after hour,
-the wealth of animal life increasing as we go. Early this
-morning I had noted two rhinoceroses bowling along over
-the velt. They had had a bath and were gleaming and
-glistening in the sun.</p>
-
-<p>Now we descry a huge something, motionless upon the
-velt, looking at first like the stump of a massive tree
-or like a squat ant-hill, but turning out on closer investigation
-to be a rhinoceros. It may seem strange that one
-can make any mistake even at one’s first sight of the
-animal, but every one who has gone after rhinoceroses
-much must have had the same astonishing or alarming
-experience.</p>
-
-<p>In this case we have to deal with an unusually large
-specimen&mdash;a bull. It seems to be asleep. My sporting
-instincts are aroused. My men halt and crouch down
-upon the ground. I hold a brief colloquy with Orgeich.
-He also gets to the rear. I advance towards the rhinoceros
-over the broken ground between us&mdash;the wind favouring
-me, and a few parched-looking bushes serving me as cover.
-I get nearer and nearer&mdash;now I am only a hundred and fifty
-paces off, now only a hundred. The great beast makes
-no stir&mdash;it seems in truth to be asleep. Now I have got
-within eighty paces, now sixty. Between me and my
-adversary there is nothing but three-foot-high parched
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_461">461</span>
-shrubs, quite useless as a protection. Ah! now he makes
-a move. Up goes his mighty head, suddenly all attention.
-My rifle rings out. Spitting and snorting, down he comes
-upon me in the lumbering gallop I have learnt to know
-so well. I fire a second shot, a third, a fourth. It is
-wonderful how quickly one can send off bullet after
-bullet in such moments. Now he is upon me, and I
-give him a fifth shot, <i>&agrave; bout portant</i>. In imagination I
-am done for, gashed by his great horn and flung into
-the air. I feel what a fool I was to expose myself in
-this way. A host of such impressions and reflections
-flash through my brain.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_158" src="images/i_158.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A RHINOCEROS IN THE DRY SEASON, ITS BODY EMACIATED BY THE SCANTINESS
-OF GRAZING-GROUNDS AND DRINKING-PLACES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>But, as it turns out, my last hour has not yet come.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_462">462</span>
-On receipt of my fifth bullet my assailant swerves round
-and lays himself open to my sixth just as he decides to
-take flight. Off he speeds now, never to be seen again,
-though we spend an hour trying to mark him down&mdash;a
-task which it is the easier for us to undertake in that
-he has fled in the direction in which we have to continue
-our march.</p>
-
-<p>Orgeich, in his good-humoured way, remarks drily,
-“That was a near thing.”</p>
-
-<p>Such “near things” may fall to the lot of the African
-hunter, however perfectly he may be equipped.</p>
-
-<p>On another occasion, two rhinoceroses that I had not
-seen until that moment made for me suddenly. In trying
-to escape I tripped over a moss-covered root of a tree,
-and fell so heavily on my right hip that at first I could
-not get up again. Both the animals rushed close by me,
-Orgeich and my men only succeeding in escaping also
-behind trees at the last moment.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>To descry one or two rhinoceroses grazing or resting
-in the midst of the bare velt and to stalk them all by
-yourself, or with a single follower to carry a rifle for you,
-is, I really think, as fascinating an experience as any hunter
-can desire. At the same time it is one of the most
-dangerous forms of modern sport. An English writer
-remarks with truth that even the bravest man cannot
-always control his senses on such occasions&mdash;that he is
-apt to get dazed and giddy. And the slightest unsteadiness
-in his hand may mean his destruction. He has to advance
-a long distance on all fours, or else wriggle along on his
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_463">463</span>
-stomach like a serpent, making the utmost use of whatever
-cover offers, and keeping note all the time of the direction
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_464">464</span>
-of the wind. He has to keep on his guard all the time
-against poisonous snakes. And he has to trust to his
-hunter’s instinct as to how near he must get to his quarry
-before he fires. I consider that a distance of more than
-a hundred paces is very hazardous&mdash;above all, if you want
-to kill outright. I am thinking, of course, of the sportsman
-who is hunting quite alone.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_160" src="images/i_160.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="hang">PIECE OF VERY HARD STONE FROM THE SIRGOI MOUNTAIN IN BRITISH
-EAST AFRICA, PRESENTED TO ME BY ALFRED KAISER. RHINOCEROSES
-WHET THEIR HORNS AGAINST THIS KIND OF STONE, MAKING ITS
-SURFACE QUITE SMOOTH.</p></div>
-
-<p>To-day I am to have an unlooked-for experience.
-A number of eland have attracted my attention. I follow
-them through the long grass, just as I did that time in
-1896 when the flock of pearl-hens buzzed over me and
-I started the two rhinoceroses which nearly “did for” me.<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">5</a>
-These antelopes claim my undivided attention. The
-country is undulating in its formation, and my men are
-all out of sight. I am quite alone, rifle in hand. The
-animals make off to the left and in amidst the high grass.
-I stand still and watch them. It would be too far to have
-a shot at the leader of the herd, so I merely follow in their
-tracks, crouching down. Now I have to get across
-a crevice. But as I am negotiating it and penetrating
-the higher grass on the opposite slope, suddenly, fifty
-paces in front of me, I perceive a huge dark object
-in among the reeds&mdash;a rhinoceros.</p>
-
-<p>It has not become aware of me yet, nor of the peril
-awaiting it. It sits up, turned right in my direction.
-Now there is no going either forwards or backwards for
-me. The grass encumbers my legs&mdash;the old growth
-(spared by the great fires that sometimes ravage the whole
-velt between two rainy seasons) mingling with the new
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_465">465</span>
-into an inextricable tangle. Such moments are full of
-excitement. It is quite on the cards that a second
-rhinoceros&mdash;perhaps a third&mdash;will now turn up. Who
-knows? Moreover, I have absolutely no inducement to
-bag the specimen now before my eyes&mdash;its horns are
-not of much account. I try cautiously to retreat, but my
-feet are entangled and I slip. Instantly I jump up again&mdash;the
-rhinoceros has heard the noise of my fall and is making
-a rush for me, spitting and snorting. It won’t be easy
-to hit him effectively, but I fire. As my rifle rings out
-I hear suddenly the singing notes like a bird in the air
-above, clear and resonant, and I seem to note the impact
-of the bullet. Next instant I see the rhinoceros disappearing
-over the undulating plain.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_162" src="images/i_162.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">RHINOCEROSES OFTEN REMAIN IN THIS SITTING POSTURE FOR QUITE A LONG TIME.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I conclude that the bullet must have struck one of his
-horns and been turned aside, and that it startled the beast
-and caused him to abandon his attack.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>But there are yet other ways in which you may be
-surprised by a rhinoceros. I had pitched my camp by the
-Pangani, in a region which at the time of Count Telekis’
-expedition, some years before, was a swamp. Its swampy
-condition lasts only during the rainy season, but I found
-my camping-place to be very unsatisfactory and unhealthy.
-I set out therefore with a few of my men to find a better
-position somewhere on dryer land, if possible shaded
-by trees, and at a spot where the river was passable&mdash;a
-good deal to ask for in the African bush. For hours
-we pursued our search through “boga” and “pori,”
-but the marshy ground did not even enable us to get
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_466">466</span>
-down to the river-side. Endless morasses of reeds
-enfolded us, in whose miry depths the foot sinks even
-in the dry weather, in which the sultry heat enervates
-us, shut in as we are by the rank growth that meets
-above our heads as we grope through it. At last we
-reach some solid earth, and it looks as though here,
-beneath some sycamores, we have found a better camping
-place. Deep-trodden paths lead down to the waterside.
-We follow them through the brushwood, I leading
-the way, and thus reach the stream. The rush and
-roar of the river resounds in our ears, and we catch the
-notes, too, of birds. Suddenly, right in front of me, the
-ground seems to quicken into life. My first notion is
-that it must be a gigantic crocodile; but no, it is a
-rhinoceros which has just been bathing, and which now,
-disturbed, is glancing in our direction and about to attack
-us or take to its heels&mdash;who can say? Escape seems
-impossible. Clasping my rifle I plunge back into the
-dense brushwood. But the tough viscous branches project
-me forward again. Now for it. The rhinoceros is
-“coming for” us. We tumble about in all directions. Some
-seconds later we exchange stupefied glances. The animal
-has fled past us, just grazing us and bespattering us with
-mud, and has disappeared from sight. How small we
-felt at that moment I cannot express! In such moments
-you experience the same kind of sensation as when your
-horse throws you or you are knocked over by a motorcar.
-(Perhaps this latter simile comes home to one best
-nowadays!) You realise, too, why the native hunters throw
-off all their clothing when they are after big game. On
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_467">467</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_468">468</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_469">469</span>
-such occasions even the lightest covering hampers you,
-and perhaps endangers your life.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_166" src="images/i_166.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A ROCK-POOL ON KILIMANJARO.</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>Countless thousands of two-horned rhinoceroses are
-still to the good in East Africa. Yes, countless thousands!
-Captain Schlobach tells us that he would encounter as
-many as thirty in one day in Karragwe in 1903 and 1904.
-Countless also are the numbers of horns which are secured
-annually for sale on the coast. But how much longer
-will this state of things continue? And the specimens
-of the white rhinoceros of South Africa which adorn
-the museum in Cape Town and the private museum of
-Mr. W. Rothschild (and which we owe to Coryndon
-and Varndell) are not more valuable than the specimens
-also to be found in the museums of the “black” rhinoceroses
-still extant in East Africa.</p>
-
-<p>This view of the matter will perhaps receive attention
-fifty or a hundred years hence.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_470">470</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="XI">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_169" src="images/i_169.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption">MASAI KILLING A HYENA WITH THEIR CLUBS.</span></span>
-
-XI<br />
-
-The Capturing of a Lion</h2>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">Simba</span> Station&mdash;Lion Station&mdash;is the name of a place
-on the Uganda Railway, which connects the Indian
-Ocean with the Victoria-Nyanza. It is situated near
-Nairobi, and the sound of its name recalls vividly to
-my memory January 25, 1897, the great day when I
-came face to face with three lions.</p>
-
-<p>At that time no iron road led to the interior of the
-country; there were neither railway lines nor telegraph
-wires to vibrate to the sound of the voice of the monarch
-of the wilderness. But the white man was soon to bar
-his path by day and night along the whole length of
-the great railroad from lake to ocean.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_172" src="images/i_172.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A LION CUB IN A BAD TEMPER.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_171" src="images/i_171.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">IN A BETTER TEMPER.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>“Lion Station” deserves its name, for in the vicinity
-of this spot over a hundred Indian workmen have been
-seized by lions. To me this was no surprise, for years
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_471">471</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_472">472</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_473">473</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_474">474</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_475">475</span>
-before I had visited the region, and had done full justice
-to its wilderness in my description of it. Some stir was
-caused when a lion killed a European in one of the
-sleeping-cars at night-time. In company with two
-others, the unfortunate man was passing the night in a
-saloon carriage which had been shunted on to a siding.
-One of the Europeans slept on the floor; as a precaution
-against mosquitoes he had covered himself with
-a cloth. Another was lying on a raised bunk. The lion
-seized the third man, who was sleeping near the two
-others on a camp-bed, killed him, and carried him away.
-One of the survivors, Herr H&uuml;bner&mdash;whose hunting-box,
-“Kibwezi,” in British East Africa, has given many sportsmen
-an opportunity of becoming acquainted with African
-game&mdash;gave me the following account of the incident:
-“The situation was a critical one. The door through
-which the beast had entered the compartment was rolled
-back. I saw the creature at about an arm’s length from
-me, standing with its fore-paws on the bed of my sleeping
-friend. Then a sudden snatch, followed by a sharp cry,
-told me that all was over. The lion’s right paw had
-fallen on my friend’s left temple, and its teeth were
-buried deep in his left breast near the armpit. For the
-next two minutes a deathly stillness reigned. Then the
-lion pulled the body from off the bed and laid it on
-the ground.” The lion disappeared with the corpse
-into the darkness of the night. It was killed shortly
-after, as might be expected.</p>
-
-<p>Such scenes were probably more frequent in earlier
-days, when, in the Orange Free State, a single hunter
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_476">476</span>
-would kill five-and-twenty lions. This was so even
-down to the year 1863, when impallah antelopes
-(<i>&AElig;pyceros suara</i>) had already become very rare in
-Bechuanaland, and in Natal a keen control had to be
-instituted over the use of arms. Times have changed.
-In the year 1899 much sensation was aroused by the
-fact that a lion was killed near Johannesburg, and so
-far back as 1883 there was quite a to-do over a lion
-that was seen and killed at Uppington, on the Orange
-River. To Oswald and Vardon, well-known English
-hunters, as well as to Moffat in Bechuanaland, the
-encountering of as many as nine troops of lions in a
-day was quite an ordinary experience, and I still found
-lions in surprising numbers in 1896 in German and British
-East Africa. The practical records of the Anglo-German
-Boundary Commission in East Africa, the observations
-made lately by Duke Adolf Friedrich of Mecklenburg,
-and the evidence of many other trustworthy witnesses,
-have confirmed these facts.</p>
-
-<p>Although I do not think that lions, at least in districts
-where game is very plentiful, are so dangerous as some
-would make out, yet I quite agree with the statement
-made by H. A. Bryden that a lion-hunt made on foot
-must be reckoned as one of the most dangerous sports
-there are. The experience of an authority like Selous,
-who was seized by lions during the night in the
-jungle, proves this.</p>
-
-<p>In the region in which I had such success lion-hunting
-in 1897, there were many mishaps. My friend
-the commandant of Port Smith in Kiku&yuml;uland, who
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_477">477</span>
-was badly mauled by lions, has since had more than
-one fellow-sufferer in this respect.</p>
-
-<p>Captain Chauncy Hugh-Stegand, who, like Mr. Hall
-and so many other hunters of other nationalities, had been
-several times injured by rhinoceroses, was once within
-an ace of being killed by a lion which he encountered
-by night, and which he shot at and pursued. Severely
-wounded, and cured almost by a miracle, he had to
-return to England to regain his health. “Such are
-the casualties of sportsmen in Central and East Africa”
-is the dry comment of Sir Harry Johnston in his preface
-to the English edition of my book <i>With Flashlight and
-Rifle</i>.</p>
-
-<p>When I read about such adventures I call to mind
-vividly my own. I live through them all again, and the
-magic of these experiences reawakes in me.</p>
-
-<p>To-day I would fain give the reader some account
-of the capturing of lions. Not of captures made by
-means of a net, such as skilful and brave men used in
-olden days to throw over the king of beasts, thus
-disabling him and putting him in their power, but of a
-capture that was not without its many intense and
-exciting moments.</p>
-
-<p>Proud Rome saw as many as five hundred lions die
-in the arena in one day. That was in the time of Pompey.
-Nearly two thousand years have passed since then, and one
-may safely affirm that in the intervening centuries very
-few lions have been brought to Europe that were caught
-when full grown in the desert. The many lions that are
-brought over to our continent are caught when young,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_478">478</span>
-and then reared, despite the credence given sometimes to
-statements to the contrary.</p>
-
-<p>It goes without saying that lions which have matured
-in confinement cannot compare with the lions that have
-come to their full development in the wilderness. Full-grown
-tigers and leopards are still nowadays in some cases
-ensnared alive, and we can see them in our zoological
-gardens in all their native wildness, and without any
-artificial breeding, marked with the unmistakable stamp
-common to all wild animals. It is an established fact that
-all captive monkeys show symptoms after a certain time
-of rachitis. This is also the case frequently with large
-felines. Lions brought up in captivity, however, have far
-finer manes than wild ones.</p>
-
-<p>Of course a certain number of the lions used in the
-arena-fights in Rome were probably reared in the Roman
-provinces by some potentate. But without doubt a large
-number were caught when fully grown by means of nets,
-pitfalls, and other devices of which we have no precise
-details.</p>
-
-<p>It seemed to me worth while to make a trial of the
-means which had once been so successful. As I have
-already pointed out, there is a great difference between
-a man who scours the wilderness solely as a hunter, and
-one who makes practical investigations into the life of the
-animal world. The sportsman may possibly sneer at the
-use of pitfalls. He has no mind for anything but an
-exciting encounter with the lion, an encounter which,
-thanks to modern means of warfare, is much easier for the
-man than formerly.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_479">479</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_178" src="images/i_178.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="hang">ANOTHER OF MY HUNTING CARDS. THE RECORD OF MY LION-HUNT OF THE
-25TH JANUARY, 1897, ON THE ATHI PLAINS, WHEN I KILLED TWO LIONS
-AND A LIONESS (“L&Ouml;WE”=LION; L&Ouml;WIN=LIONESS).
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_480">480</span><br />
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_481">481</span></p></div>
-
-<p>However, I have no wish whatever to lay down the law
-on this question of the relative amount of danger involved
-in the shooting or the trapping of lions. In many parts of
-Africa lion-hunting is a matter of luck, above all where
-horses cannot live owing to the tsetse-fly, and where dogs
-cannot be employed in large numbers (as used to be the
-practice in South Africa) to mark down the lions until
-the hunter can come. For example, we have it on good
-authority that the members of an Anglo-Abyssinian Border
-Commission, aided by a pack of dogs, were able to kill about
-twenty lions in the course of a year. But on entering the
-region of Lake Rudolf all the dogs fall victims to the tsetse-fly.
-Hunting with a pack of dogs is very successful. Dogs
-were used by the three brothers Chudiakow, who, some nine
-years ago, near Nikolsk on the Amur, in Manchuria, killed
-nearly forty Siberian tigers in one winter<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">6</a>; whilst a hunting
-party near Vladivostock killed in one month one hundred
-and twenty-five wild boars and seven tigers. Tigers are
-so plentiful near Mount Ararat that a military guard of
-three men is necessary during the night-watch to ward off
-these beasts of prey.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">7</a></p>
-
-<p>My extraordinary luck on January 25, 1897, when I
-killed three full-grown lions, fine big specimens, was of
-course a source of much satisfaction to me. The little
-sketch-map of the day’s hunt which accompanies this
-chapter shows the route I took on that memorable
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_482">482</span>
-occasion, and gives a good idea of the way in which I
-am accustomed to keep a record of such things in my
-diary. I must add that my adventures and narrow escapes
-while trying to secure lions have been of a kind such as
-would be to the taste only of those most greedy of
-excitement.</p>
-
-<p>In 1897 I had already observed that the lion was to be
-found in great troops in thinly populated neighbourhoods,
-where he was at no loss for prey and where he had not
-much to fear from man. As many as thirty lions have been
-found together, and I myself have seen a troop of fourteen
-with my own eyes. Other sportsmen have seen still larger
-troops in East Africa. Quite recently Duke Adolf
-Friedrich of Mecklenburg, who, on the occasion of his
-second African trip, made some interesting observations in
-regard to lions, has borne witness to the existence of very
-large troops. During the period in which I devoted myself
-entirely to making photographic studies of wild life, and
-consequently left undisturbed all the different species of
-game which swarmed around my camp, I was sometimes
-surrounded for days, weeks even, by great numbers of
-them, sometimes to an alarming extent. I have already
-described how one night an old lion brushed close by
-my tent to drink at the brook near which we were
-encamping, although it was just as easy for him to drink
-from the same stream at any point for miles to either side
-of us. On another occasion, as could be seen from the
-tracks, lions approached our camp until within a few yards
-of it. When I was photographing the lions falling upon
-the heifers and donkeys, as described in <i>With Flashlight</i>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_483">483</span>
-<i>and Rifle</i>, I must have been, judging by the tracks,
-surrounded by about thirty. I trapped a number of
-them, either for our various museums, where specimens
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_484">484</span>
-in various stages of development and age are much
-needed, or to protect the natives who were menaced
-by lions, or whose relatives had perhaps been seized
-by them.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_182" src="images/i_182.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">AT BAY.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is the more necessary to have recourse to traps in
-that one may spend years hunting in Equatorial East Africa
-without getting a single chance of firing a shot at a lion.
-The hunt has to take place at night, for the lion leads
-a nocturnal life, and makes off into inaccessible thickets
-by day.</p>
-
-<p>But what I was most anxious to do was to secure a
-specimen or two that I could bring alive to Europe. To
-do this, I required the lightest possible and most portable
-iron cages, which should yet be strong enough to resist
-every effort of the imprisoned animals to get free. This
-problem was solved for me as well as it could be by
-Professor Heck, the Director of the Berlin Zoological
-Gardens. Yet even he declared it to be impossible to
-make such cages under 330 lbs. in weight. For the
-transport of one such cage the services of six bearers would
-be necessary. I arranged for several such cages to be sent
-oversea to Tanga, and took them thence into the interior.
-Thus I had the assurance of keeping my captives in security,
-but first I had to get hold of them without hurting them.
-By means of a modified form of iron traps I was able to
-manage this eventually. Those who are not acquainted
-with the difficulties of transport in countries where everything
-has to be borne on men’s shoulders will hardly
-be able to realise the straits to which one may be put.
-Thus I was much hampered, when carrying back my
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_485">485</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_486">486</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_487">487</span>
-first lion (which was unharmed save for a few skin
-scratches), by a lack of bearers owing to famine and
-other causes.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_184a" src="images/i_184a.jpg" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_184b" src="images/i_184b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">STUDIES OF A TRAPPED LION AT CLOSE QUARTERS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I had found the tracks of a lioness with three quite
-little cubs. I followed them for an hour over the velt&mdash;they
-then got lost in the thick bush. As I had already
-observed the tracks of this little band for several days, I
-naturally concluded that the old lioness was making a stay
-in the neighbourhood. So I decided, as one of my heifers
-was ill from the tsetse sickness and bound to die, to pitch
-my tent in the neighbourhood and to bait a trap with the
-sick animal.</p>
-
-<p>I found water at about an hour and a half’s distance
-from the spot where I had observed the lion’s tracks. I was
-thus obliged to encamp at this distance away. Later on in
-the evening, after much labour, I succeeded in setting a
-trap in such a way that I had every reason to hope for
-good results.</p>
-
-<p>In the early hours of the following morning I started
-out, full of hope, to visit my trap. Already in the distance
-I could see that my heifer was still alive, and I immediately
-concluded that the lions had sought the open. But it was
-not so, for to my surprise I presently found fresh tracks of
-the old lioness and her cubs. Evidently she had visited
-the trap, but had returned into the bush without taking any
-notice of the easy prey. The lie of the land allowed me
-to read the lion’s tracks imprinted into the ground as if
-in a book. They told me that the cubs had at one point
-suddenly darted to one side, their curiosity excited by a
-land-tortoise whose back was now reflecting the rays of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_488">488</span>
-the sun, and which in the moonlight must have attracted
-their attention. They had evidently amused themselves
-for a while with this plaything, for the hard surface of the
-tortoise’s shell was marked with their claws. Then they
-had returned to their mother. I concluded that the old
-lioness was not hungry and had no more lust for prey&mdash;another
-confirmation of the fact that lions, when sated,
-are not destructive. This new proof seemed to me to be
-worth all the trouble I had taken.</p>
-
-<p>The two following nights, to my disappointment, the
-lions approached my heifer again without molesting it.</p>
-
-<p>This was the more annoying because I had hoped by
-capturing the old lioness to obtain possession of all the
-young cubs as well.</p>
-
-<p>In this case, as in many others, the behaviour of the
-heifer was a matter of great interest. As already remarked,
-in most cases I made use of sick cows mortally afflicted by
-the tsetse-fly. In many districts in German East Africa
-the tsetse-fly, which causes the dreadful sleeping sickness
-in man, also makes it impossible to keep cattle except
-under quite special conditions. This heifer, then, was
-already doomed to a painful death through the tsetse
-illness, and the fate I provided for it was more merciful,
-for the lion kills its prey by one single powerful bite. I
-observed, moreover, that the bound animal took its food
-quite placidly and showed no signs of unrest so long as
-the lion came up to her peaceably, as in this case. This
-accorded entirely with my frequent observations of the
-behaviour of animals towards lions on the open velt.
-Antelopes out on the velt apparently take very little
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_489">489</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_490">490</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_491">491</span>
-notice of lions, though they hold themselves at a respectful
-distance from them.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_188" src="images/i_188.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">THIS LION, AN OLD ANIMAL WITH A FINE MANE, HAD DRAGGED AWAY THE IRON TRAP SOME DISTANCE. HE MADE FOR
-ME THE MOMENT I HAD TAKEN THIS PHOTOGRAPH AT NEAR RANGE, BUT THE TRAP IMPEDED HIS MOVEMENTS AND
-A WELL-PLACED BULLET PUT AN END TO HIM.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_190" src="images/i_190.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">CARRYING IN TRIUMPH TO MY CAMP A LION WHICH I HOPED TO BRING BACK WITH ME TO EUROPE.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>In spite of my want of success, I decided to try my luck
-once more, though the surroundings of my camp were not
-very alluring and game was very scarce with the exception
-of a herd of ostriches, which for hours together haunted
-the vicinity. I hoped this time the lioness would be
-bagged. But no, I never came across her or her young
-again.</p>
-
-<p>Instead, on the fourth morning, I found a good maned
-specimen&mdash;an old male&mdash;at my mercy. Loud roars
-announced the fact of his capture to me from afar. The
-first thing was to discover whether he was firmly held by
-the iron, and also whether he was unhurt. I assured
-myself of both these points after some time, with great
-trouble and difficulty, and, needless to add, not without
-considerable danger. I leave the reader to imagine for
-himself the state of mind in which one approaches the
-King of Beasts in such circumstances. I can vouch for it
-that one does so with a certain amount of respect for His
-Majesty.</p>
-
-<p>The roaring of an enraged lion, once heard, is never
-to be forgotten. It is kept up by my captive without
-intermission, a dull heavy rumble suddenly swelling to a
-tremendous volume of sound. The expression of its face
-and head, too, show fierce anger and threaten danger.
-The terrible jaws now scrunch the branches within reach,
-now open menacingly.</p>
-
-<p>It was now necessary to free the lion from the trap
-and to bring it into camp. It would take a week to get
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_492">492</span>
-my cage, but meanwhile I decided to fasten the animal by
-means of a strong chain and with a triple yoke specially
-made for such a purpose in Europe.</p>
-
-<p>But even the bravest of my men absolutely refused to
-obey my command. It needed the greatest persistence
-to persuade some of them, at last, to lend a helping hand
-to me and my assistant Orgeich. As usual they required
-the stimulus of a good example. After some time I had,
-as can be seen on pages 485 and 499, set up my photographic
-apparatus right in front of the lion so as to take several
-photos of him at the distance of a few paces.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_193" src="images/i_193.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A CAPTURED LIONESS, SNAPSHOTTED AT THE VERY MOMENT OF
-BEING TRAPPED.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Then we cut a few saplings about as thick as one’s
-arm, and with these we tried to beat down the lion so as to
-secure him. At first this did not succeed at all. I then
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_493">493</span>
-had recourse to strong cord, which I made into a lasso.
-It was wonderful, when I caught the head of the prisoner
-in the noose, to see him grip it with his teeth and to watch
-the thick rope fall to pieces as if cut with a pair of scissors
-after a few quick, angry bites. During this trial I made a
-false step on the smooth, grassy ground, so well known to
-African explorers, and was within a hair’s breadth of falling
-into the clutches of the raging beast had not my good
-taxidermist happily dragged me back. After various further
-efforts, during which my people were constantly taking
-fright, I at length succeeded in fastening the head as well
-as the paws of the beast. With the help of the branches
-the body was laid prostrate on the ground, a gag was
-inserted between the teeth, the prisoner was released from
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_494">494</span>
-the trap and, fastened to a tree-trunk, was carried into
-camp.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_194" src="images/i_194.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A TRAPPED LION. I HEARD HIM ROARING AT A DISTANCE OF A MILE
-AND A HALF.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>But what takes only a few words to describe involved
-hours of work. It was a wonderful burden, and one not to
-be seen every day! In my previous book I have already
-described how we carried a half-grown lion in a similar
-manner, and I have given an illustration of the scene.
-Unfortunately some of my best photographs, showing
-my bearers carrying this full-grown lion, were lost while
-crossing a river.</p>
-
-<p>I was full of delight at the thought of my captive as
-he would appear in my encampment. But to my great
-chagrin the lion died in it quite suddenly, evidently from
-heart failure. We could find no trace of any wound.</p>
-
-<p>There was something really moving at this issue to the
-struggle, in the thought that I, using wile against strength,
-should have overpowered and captured this noble beast
-only to break his heart!</p>
-
-<p>This failure made me fear that I should never succeed
-in capturing a lion by such methods. It seemed almost
-better to use a large grating-trap in which it could be kept
-for several days and gradually accustomed to the loss
-of its freedom. But this meant an expensive apparatus
-which was quite beyond the funds of a private individual
-with narrow means like myself. My efforts to capture
-lions by means of pits dug by the natives were quite
-unsuccessful, because the lions always found a way out.</p>
-
-<p>A younger male lion which was entrapped lived for
-nearly a month chained up in my camp. This one had
-hurt its paw when captured, and in spite of every care
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_495">495</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_496">496</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_497">497</span>
-a bad sore gradually festered. It wounded one of my
-people very badly by ripping open a vein in his arm when
-he went to feed it.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_196" src="images/i_196.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPH OF A LION. THE ANIMAL HAD MOVED SO SWIFTLY THAT THE APPARATUS WAS NOT QUITE IN
-TIME TO TAKE IN ITS WHOLE BODY.</p></div>
-
-<p>Thus terminated my efforts to bring an old lion to
-Europe.</p>
-
-<p>Much that is easy in appearance is troublesome in reality.
-Even when the animal is overcome, the transportation
-of it to the coast is accompanied by almost insuperable
-difficulties. It means something to carry beast and cage, a
-burden amounting to something like eight hundred pounds,
-right through the wilderness by means of bearers. Even
-with the help of the Uganda Railway it has not been
-possible to bring home a full-grown lion. I have repeatedly
-caught lions for this purpose, but have always experienced
-ultimate failure.</p>
-
-<p>Sometimes the animals would not return to the place
-where I had tracked or sighted them, or would steer clear
-of the decoy. One often meets with this experience in
-India with tigers, which are decoyed in much the same
-way, and then shot from a raised stand. Interesting
-information about the behaviour of tigers in such cases
-may be found in the publications of English hunters, as
-well as in the very interesting book on tropical sport by
-P. Niedieck, a German hunter of vast experience. I
-might perhaps have succeeded on subsequent occasions
-in transporting old lions, but I never had the strong cages
-at hand. Now perhaps they are rusted and rotted, as well
-as the other implements which I hid or buried on the velt,
-not having bearers enough to carry them, and hoping to find
-them again later.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_498">498</span></p>
-
-<p>I had a most interesting adventure, once, with a lion
-on the right bank of the Rufu River.</p>
-
-<p>For several nights the continuous roaring of a lion
-had been heard in the immediate vicinity of my camp.
-In spite of all my attempts to get a sight of the beast
-by day I could not even find the slightest trace of it.
-Moreover, the vegetation in the neighbourhood of the
-river was not at all suitable for a lion-hunt. I decided to
-try my luck with a trap. A very decrepit old donkey
-was used as a bait, and killed by the lion the very first
-night. But to my disappointment the powerful beast of
-prey had evidently killed the ass with one blow, and with
-incredible strength had succeeded in dragging it off into
-the thicket without as much as touching the trap. Very
-early the next morning I found the tracks, which were
-clearly imprinted on the ground. Breathlessly I followed
-up the trail step by step in the midst of thick growth
-which only allowed me to see a few paces around me. I
-crept noiselessly forward, followed by my gun-bearer,
-knowing that in all probability I should come upon
-the lion.</p>
-
-<p>The trail turned sharply to the left through some thick
-bushes. Now we came to a spot where the thief had
-evidently rested with his spoil; then the tracks led sharply
-to the right and went straight forward without a pause.</p>
-
-<p>We had been creeping forward on the sunlit sand like
-stealthy cats, with every nerve and muscle taut, my people
-close behind me, I with my rifle raised and ready to fire&mdash;when,
-suddenly, with a weird sort of growl it leapt up
-right in front of us and was over the hard sand and away.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_499">499</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_500">500</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_501">501</span>
-It is astonishing how the stampede of a lion reverberates
-even in the far distance!</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_200" src="images/i_200.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN AT A DISTANCE OF ABOUT FIVE PACES OF A LION WHICH I CAPTURED ALIVE AND BROUGHT BACK
-TO CAMP&mdash;A SPECIMEN OF THE MANELESS LIONS OF THE MASAI VELT. SOME OF THE VERY OLD LIONS DEVELOP
-MANES EVEN IN THIS REGION, BUT NEVER TO THE EXTENT USUAL WITH LIONS IN CAPTIVITY, OR WITH THE ALMOST
-EXTINCT SPECIES OF THE ATLAS COUNTRY OR OF SOUTH AFRICA.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_202" src="images/i_202.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">MY PLUCKY TAXIDERMIST MANAGED TO GET THIS CAPTURED HYENA UNHARMED
-INTO CAMP, PROTECTING HIMSELF WITH A BIG CUDGEL.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>A few steps further I came upon the remains of the
-ass. The lion had gained the open when I got out of
-the brushwood. It was useless to follow the tracks, for
-they led only to stony ground, where they would be lost.
-Discouraged, I gave up the pursuit for the time, but only
-to return a few hours later. Approaching very cautiously
-to the place where I had left the remains of the donkey, we
-found they were no longer there. The lion had fetched
-them away. We followed again, but to my unspeakable
-disappointment with the same result as in the morning. I
-managed this time, however, to get near the lion through
-the brushwood, but he immediately took to flight again&mdash;when
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_502">502</span>
-only a few yards from me, though hidden by bushes.
-Perhaps he is still at large in this same locality!</p>
-
-<p>Lions&mdash;generally several of them together&mdash;killed my
-decoys on several occasions without themselves getting
-caught. I once surprised a lion and two lionesses at such
-a meal in the Njiri marshes, in June 1903. Unfortunately
-the animals became aware of my approach, and now began
-just such a chase as I had already successfully undertaken
-on January 25, 1897.<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">8</a></p>
-
-<p>I was able by degrees to gain on the satiated animals.
-A wonderful memory that! Clear morning light, a sharp
-breeze from over the swamps, the yellowish velt with its
-whitish incrustation of salt&mdash;a few bushes and groups of
-trees&mdash;and ever before me the lions, beating their reluctant
-retreat, now clearly visible, now almost out of sight.</p>
-
-<p>I try a shot. But they are too far&mdash;it is no use.
-Puffing and panting, I feel my face glow and my heart
-beat with my exertions. At length one lioness stops
-and glances in my direction. I shoot, and imagine I have
-missed her. All three rapidly disappear in a morass near
-at hand. All my efforts seem to have been in vain....
-Eight days later, however, I bag the lioness, and find that
-my ball has struck her right through the thigh.</p>
-
-<p>It may happen that a lion caught in a trap gets off
-with the iron attached to him, and covers vast stretches
-of country. The pursuer has then an exciting time of it.
-If the animal passes through a fairly open district the issue
-is probably successful. But I have sometimes been obliged
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_503">503</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_504">504</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_505">505</span>
-to wade through a morass of reeds for hours at a stretch.
-The hunter should remember that the irons may have
-gripped the lion’s paw in such a way that he may be
-able to shake them off with a powerful effort. Then
-the tables may easily be turned, and the lion may clasp the
-hunter, never to let him go again.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_204" src="images/i_204.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">CARRYING A LIVE HYENA BACK TO CAMP.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_206" src="images/i_206.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">MY HYENA, THE ONE I AFTERWARDS BROUGHT TO EUROPE AND PRESENTED TO
-THE BERLIN ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. IT WAS CHAINED UP IN CAMP.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>On another occasion I caught two full-grown lions in
-one night. They had roamed about quite near my camp
-night after night. They had frightened my people, and
-had been seen by the night sentinels; but in the daytime
-no one had been able to catch a glimpse of them. At
-last one night a sick ass, that had been placed as a bait,
-was torn away. The trail of the heavy irons led, after
-much turning and twisting, to a reedy swamp. Here it
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_506">506</span>
-was impossible to follow the tracks further. Several hours
-passed before I succeeded finally in finding first one lion
-and then the other. To kill them was no easy matter.
-I could hear the clanking of the chains where they were
-moving about, but I must see them before I could take
-effective aim. Meanwhile one of the lions was making
-frantic efforts to free himself. Supposing the irons were
-to give way! But these efforts were followed by moments
-of quiet and watching. How the beasts growled!</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>I cannot agree with those who condemn indiscriminately
-the trapping of lions. Of course, it must be done for a
-good purpose. I should not have been able to present
-the Imperial Natural History Museum in Berlin with such
-beautiful and typical lions’ skins had I not had recourse
-to these traps.</p>
-
-<p>A lion story with a droll ending came to me from
-Bagamo&yuml;o. There a lion had made itself very obnoxious,
-and some Europeans determined to trap it. The trap
-was soon set, and a young lion fell into it. Several men
-armed to the teeth approached the place, to put an end to
-the captive with powder and shot. I cannot now exactly
-remember what happened next, but on the attempt of the
-lion to free itself from the trap the riflemen took to their
-heels and plunged into a pond. According to one version,
-the lion turned out afterwards to be only a hyena!</p>
-
-<p>At one time there was a perfect plague of lions near
-the coast towns&mdash;Mikindani, for instance. Hungry lions
-attacked the townsfolk on many occasions, and even poked
-their heads inside the doors of the dwellings.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_507">507</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_208a" src="images/i_208a.jpg" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_208b" src="images/i_208b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">MASAI MAKING GAME OF A HYENA WHICH HAD ATTACKED THEIR KRAAL AND
-WHICH I HAD TRAPPED AT THEIR REQUEST. THEY KILLED IT AT LAST WITH
-A SINGLE SPEAR-STAB THROUGH THE HEART.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_508">508</span></p></div>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_509">509</span></p>
-
-<p>The extermination of wild life has been almost as great
-a disaster to the lions as to the bushmen of South Africa.
-Extermination awaits bushman and lion in their turn&mdash;not
-through hunger alone.</p>
-
-<p>I was more fortunate in my attempt to get a fine
-example of the striped hyena (<i>Hyena schillingsi</i>, Mtsch.),
-which I had previously discovered, and in bringing it to
-Germany, where I presented it to the Berlin Zoological
-Gardens. On page 501 is to be seen a picture of one of
-this species caught in a trap. Orgeich, my plucky
-assistant, had armed himself with a big cudgel, for use in
-the case of the beast attacking him, but never lost his
-equanimity, and smoked his indispensable and inseparable
-pipe the whole time! Another illustration is of a hyena
-which was confined in the camp. This fine specimen,
-an old female, was very difficult to take to the coast.
-Something like forty bearers were needed to transport
-the heavy iron apparatus with its inmate as far as Tanga.
-This representative of its species was one of the first
-brought alive to Europe, and lived for several years in
-the Berlin Zoological Gardens.</p>
-
-<p>It is less troublesome to obtain possession of smaller
-beasts of prey. Thus I kept three jackals (<i>Thos. schmidti</i>,
-Noack) in my camp until they became quite reconciled to
-their fate. It is very interesting to study the various
-characteristics of animals at such times. Some adapt
-themselves very easily to their altered circumstances;
-others of the same species do so only after a long struggle.
-The study of animal character can be carried on very well
-under the favourable conditions of camp life in the wild.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_510">510</span></p>
-
-<p>Although grown jackals may be fairly easily brought
-over to Europe, we had great difficulty with members of
-the more noble feline race, and above all with the King
-of Beasts himself. I learnt by experience that lynxes and
-wild cats were only to be tamed with great difficulty,
-and I once lost a captive lynx very suddenly in spite of
-every care.</p>
-
-<p>These things are not so simple. This is why it is
-not yet possible to bring many of the most charming and
-most interesting members of the African animal world to
-Europe. I much wish that it were possible to bring full-grown
-lions over. I would far rather see one or two of
-them in all their native wildness and majesty than a whole
-troop of home-reared and almost domesticated specimens.</p>
-
-<p>But the hours I devoted to my own attempts in this
-direction were not spent in vain. They were memorable
-hours, full of splendid excitement.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_511">511</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="XII">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_212" src="images/i_212.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption">A FEW SPECIMENS OF ELEPHANT-TUSKS SECURED BY THE EMISSARIES OF
-DEUSS &amp; CO., IN PORTUGUESE EAST AFRICA.</span></span>
-
-XII<br />
-
-A Dying Race of Giants</h2>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">Every</span> one who knows Equatorial East Africa will
-bear me out in saying that it is easier nowadays
-to kill fifty rhinoceroses than a single bull-elephant
-carrying tusks weighing upwards of a couple of hundred
-pounds.</p>
-
-<p>There are only a few survivors left of this world-old
-race of giants. Many species, probably, have
-disappeared without leaving a single trace behind. The
-block granite sarcophagi on the Field of the Dead in
-Sakkarah in Egypt, dating from 3,500 years ago, are
-memorials (each weighing some 64 tons) of the sacred
-bulls of Apis: the mightiest monument ever raised by
-man to beast. Bulls were sacred to Ptah, the God of
-Memphis, and their gravestones&mdash;which Mariette, for
-instance, brought to light in 1851&mdash;yield striking evidence
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_512">512</span>
-of the pomp attached to the cult of animals in those days
-of old.</p>
-
-<p>But no monument has been raised to the African
-elephants that have been slaughtered by millions in the
-last hundred years. Save for some of the huge tusks
-for which they were killed, there will be scarcely a
-trace of them in the days to come, when their Indian
-cousins&mdash;the sacred white elephants&mdash;may perhaps still
-be revered.</p>
-
-<p>John Hanning Speke, who with his fellow-countryman
-Grant discovered the Victoria Nyanza, found elephant
-herds grazing quite peacefully on its banks. The animals,
-nowadays so wild, hardly took any notice when some of
-their number were killed or wounded: they merely passed
-a little farther on and returned to their grazing.</p>
-
-<p>The same might be said of the Upper Nile swamps
-in the land of the Dinkas, in English territory, where,
-thanks to specially favourable conditions, the English have
-been successfully preserving the elephants. Also in the
-Knysna forests of Cape Colony some herds of elephants
-have been preserved by strict protective laws during
-the last eighty years or so. Experience with Indian
-elephants has proved that when protected the sagacious
-beasts are not so shy and wild as is generally the case
-with those of Africa. For the latter have become,
-especially the full-grown and experienced specimens, the
-shyest of creatures, and therefore the most difficult to
-study.</p>
-
-<p>Should any one differ from me as to this, I would beg
-him to substantiate his opinion by the help of photographs,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_513">513</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_514">514</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_515">515</span>
-taken in the wilderness, of elephants which have
-not been shot at&mdash;photographs depicting for us the African
-elephant in its native wilds. When he does, I shall
-“give him best”!</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_214" src="images/i_214.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">THE HEAVIEST ELEPHANTS’ TUSKS EVER RECORDED IN THE ANNALS OF EAST
-AFRICAN TRADE. THEY WEIGHED 450 POUNDS. I TRIED IN VAIN TO SECURE
-THEM FOR A GERMAN MUSEUM. THEY WERE BOUGHT FOR AMERICA.</p></div>
-
-<p>The elephant is no longer to be found anywhere in
-its original numbers. It is found most frequently in the
-desert places between Abyssinia and the Nile and the Galla
-country, or in the inaccessible parts of the Congo, on
-the Albert Nyanza, and in the hinterlands of Nigeria and
-the Gold Coast. But in the vicinity of the Victoria
-Nyanza things have changed greatly. Richard Kandt
-tells us that a single elephant-hunter, a Dane, who afterwards
-succumbed to the climate, alone slaughtered hundreds
-in the course of years.</p>
-
-<p>According to experts in this field of knowledge, some
-of the huge animals of prehistoric days disappeared in a
-quite brief space of time from the earth’s surface. But
-we cannot explain why beasts so well qualified to defend
-themselves should so speedily cease to exist. However
-that may be, the fate of the still existing African elephant
-appears to me tragic. At one time elephants of different
-kinds dwelt in our own country.<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">9</a> Remains of the
-closely related mammoth, with its long hair adapted to a
-northern climate, are sometimes excavated from the ice in
-Siberia. Thus we obtain information about its kind of
-food, for remnants of food well preserved by the intense
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_516">516</span>
-cold have been found between the teeth and in the
-stomach&mdash;remnants which botanists have been able to
-identify.</p>
-
-<p>By a singular coincidence, the mammoth remains preserved
-in the ice have been found just at a time when
-the craze for slaughtering their African relations has reached
-its climax, and when by means of arms that deal out death
-at great, and therefore safe distances, the work of annihilation
-is all too rapidly progressing. The scientific equipment
-of mankind is so nearly perfect that we are able to
-make the huge ice-bound mammoths, which have perhaps
-been reposing in their cold grave for thousands of years,
-speak for themselves. And it can be proved by means
-of the so-called “physiological blood-proof” that the
-frozen blood of the Siberian mammoths shows its kinship
-with the Indian and African elephant!</p>
-
-<p>It is strange to reflect that mankind, having attained
-to its present condition of enlightenment, should yet have
-designs upon the last survivors of this African race of
-giants&mdash;and chiefly in the interests of a game! For the
-ivory is chiefly required to make billiard balls! Is it not
-possible to contrive some substitute in these days when
-nothing seems beyond the power of science?</p>
-
-<p>A. H. Neumann, a well-known English hunter, says
-that some years ago it was already too late to reap a
-good ivory harvest in Equatorial Africa or in Mombasa.
-He had to seek farther afield in the far-lying districts
-between the Indian Ocean and the Upper Nile, where
-he obtained about &pound;5,000 worth of ivory during one
-hunting expedition.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_517">517</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_218" src="images/i_218.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="hang">A STORE OF ELEPHANTS’ TUSKS IN ONE OF THE WORKROOMS OF THE IMPORTANT IVORY FACTORY OF A. MEYER AT
-HAMBURG. IT SHOULD BE BORNE IN MIND THAT THERE ARE A NUMBER OF OTHER SUCH FACTORIES ON THE CONTINENT
-AND IN AMERICA.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_518">518</span></p></div>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_519">519</span></p>
-
-<p>Meanwhile powder and shot are at work day and night
-in the Dark Continent. It is not the white man himself
-who does most of the work of destruction; it is the native
-who obtains the greater part of the ivory used in commerce.
-Two subjects of Manga Bell, for instance, killed a short
-time back, in the space of a year and a half, elephants
-enough to provide one hundred and thirty-nine large
-tusks for their chief! There is no way of changing matters
-except by completely disarming the African natives.
-Unless this is done, in a very short time the elephant
-will only be found in the most inaccessible and unhealthy
-districts. It does not much matter whether this comes
-about in a single decade or in several. What are thirty
-or forty or fifty years, in comparison with the endless
-ages that have gone to the evolution of these wonderful
-animals? It is remarkable, too, that in spite of all the
-hundreds of African elephants which are being killed,
-not a single museum in the whole world possesses one
-of the gigantic male elephants which were once so
-numerous, but which are now so rarely to be met with.
-Accompanying this chapter is a photograph of the heaviest
-elephant-tusks which have ever reached the coast from
-the interior. The two tusks together weigh about
-450 pounds. One can form some idea of the size of the
-elephant which carried them! I was unfortunately unable
-to obtain these tusks for Germany, although they were
-taken from German Africa. They were sent to America,
-and sold for nearly &pound;1,000.</p>
-
-<p>I should like the reader to note, also, the illustration
-showing a room in an ivory factory. The number of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_520">520</span>
-tusks there visible will give an approximate notion of the
-tremendous slaughter which is being carried on.</p>
-
-<p>The price of ivory has been rising gradually, and is
-now ten times what it was some forty years ago in the
-Sudan, according to Brehm’s statistics. In Morgen’s
-time one could buy a fifty-pound tusk in the Cameroons
-for some stuff worth about sevenpence. In the last
-century or two the price of ivory has risen commensurately
-with that of all other such wares. Nowadays a sum
-varying from &pound;300 to &pound;400 may be obtained for the
-egg of the Great Auk, which became extinct less than
-half a century ago: whilst a stuffed specimen of the bird
-itself is worth at least &pound;1,000. What will be the price of
-such things in years to come!</p>
-
-<p>In the light of these remarks the reader will easily
-understand how greatly I prize the photographs which I
-secured of two huge old bull-elephants in friendly company
-with a bull-giraffe, and which are here reproduced. It
-will be difficult, if not indeed impossible, ever again to
-photograph such mighty “tuskers” in company with
-giraffes. In the year 1863 Brehm wrote that no true
-picture existed of the real African elephant in its own
-actual haunts. The fact brought to light by these pictures
-is both new and surprising, especially for the expert, who
-hitherto has been inclined to believe that giraffes were
-dwellers on the velt and accustomed to fight shy of the
-damp forests. That they should remain in such a region
-in company with elephants for weeks at a time was
-something hitherto unheard of. I do not know how to
-express my delight at being able after long hours of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_521">521</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_522">522</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_523">523</span>
-patient waiting to sight this rare conjunction of animals
-from my place of observation either with a Goerz-Trizeder
-or with the naked eye, but only for a few seconds at a
-time, because of the heavy showers of rain which kept
-falling. How disappointing and mortifying it was to find
-oneself left in the lurch by the sun&mdash;and just immediately
-under the Equator, where one had a right to it! What I
-had so often experienced in my photographic experiments
-in the forests by the Rufu River&mdash;that is, the want of
-sunlight for days together&mdash;now made me almost desperate.
-At any moment the little gathering of animals might break
-up, in which case I should never be able to get a photographic
-record of the strange friendship. Since the publication
-of my first work I have often been asked to give some
-further particulars about this matter. Therefore, perhaps
-these details, supported by photographs, will not be
-unacceptable to my readers.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_222a" src="images/i_222a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">AN AUK’S EGG, ABOUT THREE-FIFTH OF ACTUAL SIZE. AUK’S
-EGGS COME INTO THE MARKET IN ENGLAND FROM TIME
-TO TIME AND FETCH AS MUCH AS &pound;300 APIECE.</p></td>
-
-    <td><img id="i_222b" src="images/i_222b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">THE SPECIMEN OF THE AUK PRESERVED IN THE BERLIN
-NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM. IT WOULD BE WORTH
-AT LEAST &pound;1,000 IF OFFERED FOR SALE.</p></td>
-  </tr>
-</table>
-
-<p class="caption">(REPRODUCED HERE BY KIND PERMISSION OF THE DIRECTOR OF THE MUSEUM,
-DR. BRAUER VON FRL. ELFRIEDE ZIMMERMANN.)</p></div>
-
-<p>I candidly admit that had I suddenly come upon these
-great bull-elephants in the jungle in years gone by I could
-not have resisted killing them. But I have gradually
-learned to restrain myself in this respect. It would have
-been a fine sensation from the sportsman’s standpoint, and
-would besides have brought in a round sum of perhaps
-&pound;500; but what was all that in comparison with the
-securing of one single authentic photograph which would
-afford irrefutable proof of so surprising a fact?</p>
-
-<p>The western spurs of the great Kilimanjaro range end
-somewhat abruptly in a high table-land, which is grass-grown
-and covered in patches with sweet-smelling acacias.
-This undulating velt-region gradually slopes down until in
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_524">524</span>
-its lowest parts the waters collect and form the western
-Njiri marshes, which at some seasons of the year are
-almost dry. Volcanic hills arise here and there on the
-plain, from whose summits one can obtain a wide view.
-One of the most prominent of these hills has a cavity at
-its summit. It is evidently the crater of an extinct volcano
-which is filled with water, like the volcanic lakes of my
-native Eifel district. A thicket begins not far from this
-hill, and gradually extends until it merges into the forest
-beyond. The burning sun has dried up all the grass up
-to the edge of the thicket. There is so little rain here
-that the poor Xerophites are the only exception that can
-stand the drought. Only on the inner walls of the steep
-crater do bushes and shrubs grow, for these are only
-exposed at midday to the sun’s heat.</p>
-
-<p>Thus a cool moisture pervades this hollow except
-during the very hottest season. Paths, trodden down by
-crowds of game, lead to the shining mirror of the little
-lake. It used to be the haunt of beasts of prey, and
-the smaller animals would probably seek drinking-places
-miles distant rather than come to this grim declivity.
-There is, however, a kind of road leading to the summit
-of this hill, a very uneven road, wide at first, then gradually
-narrower and narrower, which had become almost impassable
-with grass and brushwood when I made my way
-up. This road was trodden by the cattle herds of the
-Masai. It may be that rhinoceroses and elephants were
-the original makers of it before the warlike shepherds
-began to lead their thirsty cattle to this secluded lake.
-Be this as it may, my Masai friends assured me that they
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_525">525</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_526">526</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_527">527</span>
-brought their herds here time out of mind until the
-rinderpest devastated them.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_226" src="images/i_226.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A THICKET, HUNG WITH LICHENS, MUCH FREQUENTED BY ELEPHANTS AND SOMETIMES ALMOST IMPENETRABLE TO MAN.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>For weeks I had had natives on the look-out for elephants.
-They could only tell me, however, of small herds composed
-of cows and young bulls, and that was not good enough
-from the point of view of either sportsman or photographer.
-However, I made several excursions round the Kilepo Hill
-from my camp, never taking more than a few men with
-me&mdash;it so often happens that one’s followers spoil the
-chase, perhaps quite frustrate it. This is well known to
-natives and experienced elephant-hunters.</p>
-
-<p>I soon became familiar with the district and its
-vegetation. For hours I followed paths which led through
-thick undergrowth, and I had some unpleasant encounters
-with rhinoceroses. I knew well that the neighbourhood
-of the hills, with its tall impenetrable growth, was a
-most likely one for astute and cautious bull-elephants to
-haunt.</p>
-
-<p>Hunting elephants in this fashion, day after day, with
-only a few followers, is a delightful experience. It happens,
-perhaps, that one has to pass the night in the forest under
-the free vault of heaven, with the branches of a huge tree as
-shelter. The faint glow of the camp-fire fades and flickers,
-producing weird effects in the network of the foliage.
-How quickly one falls victim to atavistic terrors of the
-night! Terrors of what? Of the “pepo ya miti,” the
-spirit of the woods, or of some other mysterious sprite?
-No, of wild animals&mdash;the same kind of fear that little
-children have in the dark of something unknown, dangerous
-and threatening. My followers betake themselves to their
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_528">528</span>
-slumbers with indifference, for they have little concern for
-probable dangers. But the imaginative European is on
-the look-out for peril&mdash;the thought of it holds and
-fascinates him.... Somewhere in the distance, perhaps,
-the heavens are illuminated with a bright light. Far, far
-away a conflagration is raging, devastating miles upon
-miles of the vale below. The sky reflects the light, which
-blazes up now purple, now scarlet! Often it will last
-for days and nights, nay weeks, whole table-lands being
-in flames and acting as giant beacons to light up the
-landscape!... My thoughts would turn towards the
-bonfires which in Germany of old flashed their message
-across the land&mdash;news, perhaps, of the burial of some
-great prince.... So, now, it seemed to me that those
-distant flames told of the last moments of some monarch
-of the wild.</p>
-
-<p>At last I received good news. A huge bull-elephant
-had been seen for a few minutes in the early morning
-hours in the vicinity of the Kilepo Hill. This overjoyed
-me, for I was quite certain that in a few days now we
-should meet them above on the hill.</p>
-
-<p>I left my camp to the care of the greater part of my
-caravan, but sent a good many of my men back into the
-inhabited districts of the northern Kilimanjaro to get fresh
-provisions from Useri. I myself went about a day’s journey
-up Kilepo Hill, accompanied by a few of my men, resolved
-to get a picture <i>co&ucirc;te que co&ucirc;te</i>.</p>
-
-<p>It was characteristic of my scouts that they could only
-give me details about elephants. As often as I asked
-them about other game I could get nothing out of them,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_529">529</span>
-for what were giraffes, buffaloes, and rhinoceroses to them,
-and what interest could they have in such worthless
-creatures! The whole mind of the natives has been for
-many years past directed by us Europeans upon ivory.
-Native hunters in scantily populated districts dream and
-think only of “jumbe”&mdash;ivory, and always more ivory, as
-the Esquimaux yearns for seal blubber and oil and the
-European for gold, gold, gold! In these parts giraffes
-and rhinoceroses count for nothing in comparison with the
-elephant&mdash;the native thinks no more of them than one of
-our own mountaineers would think of a rabbit or a hare.
-Only those who have seen this for themselves can realise
-how quickly one gets accustomed to the point of view! In
-the gameless and populous coast districts the appearance of
-a dwarf antelope or of a bustard counts for a good deal, and
-holds out promise to the sportsman of other such game&mdash;waterbuck,
-perhaps. I have read in one of the coast
-newspapers the interesting news that Mr. So and So was
-fortunate enough to kill a bustard and an antelope. That
-certainly was quite good luck, for you may search long in
-populous districts and find nothing. As you penetrate
-into the wilder districts conditions change rapidly, and
-after weeks and months of marching in the interior you
-get accustomed to expecting only the biggest of big game.
-The other animals become so numerous that the sight of
-them no longer quickens the pulse.</p>
-
-<p>I have already remarked that elephants are much less
-cautious by night than by day. The very early morning
-hours are the best for sighting elephants, before they
-retire into their forest fastnesses to escape the burning
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_530">530</span>
-rays of the sun. But as at this time of the year the
-sun hardly ever penetrated the thick bank of clouds, there
-was a chance of seeing the elephants at a later hour and
-in the bush. So every morning either I or one of my
-scouts was posted on one of the hills&mdash;Kilepo especially&mdash;to
-keep a sharp look-out. It needed three hours in the
-dark and two in the daylight to get up the hill. It was
-not a pleasant climb. We were always drenched to the
-skin by the wet grass and bushes, and it was impossible
-to light a fire to dry ourselves, for the animals would
-certainly have scented it. We had to stay there in our
-wet clothes, hour after hour, watching most carefully and
-making the utmost of the rare moments when the mist
-rolled away in the valley and enabled us to peer into
-the thickets. It may seem surprising that we should
-have found so much difficulty in sighting the elephants,
-but one must remember that they emerge from their
-mud-baths with a coating that harmonises perfectly with the
-tree-trunks and the general environment, and are therefore
-hard to descry. Besides, the conditions of light in the
-tropics are very different from what we are accustomed
-to in our own northern clime, and are very deceptive.</p>
-
-<p>When fortune was kind I could just catch a glimpse
-during a brief spell of sunshine of a gigantic elephant’s
-form in the deep valley beneath. But only for a few
-instants. The next moment there was nothing to be seen
-save long vistas of damp green plants and trees. The
-deep rain-channels stood out clear and small in the
-landscape from where I stood. The mightiest trees
-looked like bushes; the hundred-feet-high trunks of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_531">531</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_532">532</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_533">533</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_534">534</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_535">535</span>
-decayed trees which stood up out of the undergrowth
-here and there looked like small stakes. In the ever-changing
-light one loses all sense of the vastness of things
-and distances.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_233" src="images/i_233.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A VELT FIRE. THE BONES OF AN ELEPHANT SOON TO BECOME FOOD FOR THE FLAMES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_234" src="images/i_234.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A VELT FIRE.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>For once the mist rolls off rapidly; a gust of wind
-drives away the clouds. The sun breaks through. Look!
-there is a whole herd of elephants below us in the
-valley! But in another second the impenetrable forest
-of trees screens them from my camera. At last they
-become clearly visible again, and I manage to photograph
-two cow-elephants in the distance. The sun vanishes
-again now, and an hour later I have at last the whole
-herd clearly before me in the hollow. How the little
-calves cling to their mothers! How quietly the massive
-beasts move about, now disappearing into the gullies,
-now reappearing and climbing up the hillside with a
-sureness of foot that makes them seem more like automatons
-than animals. Every now and again the ruddy
-earth-coloured backs emerge from the mass of foliage.
-A wonderful and moving picture! For I know full well
-that the gigantic mothers are caring for their children
-and protecting them from the human fiend who seeks
-to destroy them with pitfalls, poisoned arrows, or death-dealing
-guns. How cautiously they all move, scenting
-the wind with uplifted trunks, and keeping a look-out for
-pitfalls! Every movement shows careful foresight; the
-gigantic old leaders have evidently been through some
-dire experiences.</p>
-
-<p>Suddenly a warning cry rings out. Immediately the
-whole herd disappears noiselessly into the higher rain-channels
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_536">536</span>
-of the hill&mdash;the “Subugo woods” of the
-Wandorobo hunters.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>Had the elephants not got these places of refuge to
-fly to they would have died out long ago! This is the
-only means by which they are still able to exist in Africa.
-I feel how difficult it is to depict accurately the constant
-warfare that is going on between man and beast, and
-can only give others a vague idea of what it is like.
-Many secrets of the life and fate and the speedy annihilation
-of the African elephants will sink into the grave
-with the last commercial elephant-hunters. And once
-again civilisation will have done away with an entire
-species in the course of a single century. The question
-as to how far this was necessary will provide ample
-material for pamphlets and discussions in times to come.</p>
-
-<p>When one knows the “subugo,” however, one understands
-how it has been possible for elephants in South
-Africa to have held out so long in the Knysna and
-Zitzikama forests until European hunters began to go
-after them with rifles in expert fashion. Fritsch visited
-the Knysna forests in 1863. “It is easy,” he says, “to
-understand how elephants have managed to remain in
-their forests for weeks together before one of their number
-has fallen, even when hundreds of men have been after
-them. There are spots in these forests&mdash;regular islands
-completely surrounded by water&mdash;where they take refuge,
-and where no one can get at them.”</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_238" src="images/i_238.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">AN OLD ACACIA TREE.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Of course, Fritsch speaks of a time when the art of
-shooting was in its infancy. One must not forget that
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_537">537</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_538">538</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_539">539</span>
-nowadays ruthless marksmen will reach the mighty beasts
-even in these islands of refuge&mdash;marksmen who shoot at
-a venture with small-calibre rifles, and who find the dead
-elephant later somewhere in the neighbourhood, with
-vultures congregated round the corpse.<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">10</a></p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>Now perhaps I may have to wait in vain for hours,
-days, and even weeks! Some mornings there is absolutely
-nothing to be seen&mdash;the animals have gone down to
-the lake to drink, or have taken refuge in one of the
-little morasses at the foot of the hill. Judging by their
-nocturnal wanderings it seems as if they must have other
-accessible drinking-places in the vicinity. A search for
-these places, however, is not to be thought of. If I were
-to penetrate to these haunts they would immediately note
-my footsteps and take to flight for months, perhaps,
-putting miles between themselves and their would-be
-photographer.</p>
-
-<p>For to-day, at any rate, all is over. The sun only
-breaks through the heavy masses of cloud for a few
-minutes at a time, and great sombre palls of mist hang
-over the forests, constantly changing from one shape to
-another.</p>
-
-<p>To obtain a picture by means of the telephoto-lens
-did not seem at all feasible. But a photo of bull-elephants
-and giraffes together!&mdash;so long as there was the faintest
-chance of it I would not lose heart. It was not easy,
-but I <i>must</i> succeed! So, wet through and perishing with
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_540">540</span>
-cold, I wandered every morning through the tall grass to
-the top of the hill and waited and waited....</p>
-
-<p>The elephants seemed to have completely disappeared;
-no matter how far I extended my daily excursions, they
-were nowhere to be seen. At length I came across a
-fairly big herd, but they had taken up their stand in
-such an impenetrable thicket that it was quite impossible
-to sight them. After much creeping and crawling through
-the elephant and rhinoceros paths in the undergrowth I
-managed to get just for a few minutes a faint glimpse of
-the vague outline of single animals, but so indistinct that
-it was impossible to determine their age, size, or sex.
-In East Africa elephants are generally seen under these
-unfavourable conditions. Very seldom does one come
-upon a good male tusk-bearing specimen, as well-meaning
-but inexperienced persons, such as I myself was at one
-time, would desire.</p>
-
-<p>There is something very exciting and stimulating in
-coming face to face with these gigantic creatures in
-the thick undergrowth. All one’s nerves are strained
-to see or hear the faintest indication of the whereabouts
-of the herd; the sultry air, the dense tangle through
-which we have to move, and which hinders every step,
-combine to excite us. We can only see a few paces
-around. The strong scent of elephant stimulates us. The
-snapping and creaking of branches and twigs, the noises
-made by the beasts themselves, especially the shrill cry of
-warning given out from time to time by one of the herd&mdash;all
-add to the tension. The clanging, pealing sound of
-this cry has something particularly weird in it in the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_541">541</span>
-stillness of the great forest. At such a signal the whole
-herd moves forward, to-day quietly without noise, and
-to-morrow in wild blustering flight. It is very seldom that
-one can catch them up on the same day, and then only after
-long hours of pursuit.... These forest sanctuaries, together
-with their own caution, have done more to stave off the
-extermination of the species than have all the sporting
-restrictions that have been introduced.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_242" src="images/i_242.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">THE TWO ELEPHANTS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_244" src="images/i_244.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">THE TUSKS OF THE ELEPHANTS SEEMED EVEN LARGER THAN THEY REALLY WERE, AND OUT OF All PROPORTION TO
-THE SIZE OF THE ELEPHANTS, THOUGH THESE WERE EXCEPTIONALLY BIG BEASTS, NEARLY 12 FEET IN HEIGHT.
-THE GIRAFFE COMES OUT CURIOUSLY IN THIS PICTURE, RIGHT AT THE BOTTOM.</p></div>
-
-<p>Every morning I returned to my post of observation on
-the hill. I could easily have killed one or other of the
-herd. But I did not wish to disturb the elephants, and I
-had also good reason for believing that there were no very
-large tusks among them. Morning after morning I returned
-disappointed to my camp, only to find my way back on the
-next day to my sentry-box at the edge of the forest on the
-hill. Days went by and nothing was seen save the back
-or head of an elephant emerging from the “subugo.” This
-“subugo” knows well how to protect its inmates.</p>
-
-<p>Every morning the same performance. At my feet the
-mist-mantled forest, and near me my three or four blacks,
-to whom my reluctance to shoot the elephants and my preoccupation
-with my camera were alike inexplicable. Whenever
-the clouds rolled away over the woods and valley it
-was necessary to keep the strictest watch. Then I discovered
-smaller herds of giraffes with one or two elephants
-accompanying them. But this would be for a few seconds
-only. The heavy banks of cloud closed to again. A
-beautiful large dove (<i>Columba aquatrix</i>) flew about noisily,
-and like our ringdove, made its love-flights round about
-the hill, and cooed its deep notes close by. Down below
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_542">542</span>
-in the valley echoed the beautiful, resonant, melancholy
-cry of the great grey shrike; cock and hen birds answered
-one another in such fashion that the call seemed to come
-from only one bird. There was no other living thing to
-see or hear.</p>
-
-<p>But now! At last! I shall never forget how suddenly
-in one of the brilliant bursts of sunshine the mighty white
-tusks of two bull-elephants shone out in the hollow so
-dazzlingly white that one must have beheld them to understand
-their extraordinary effect, seen thus against that
-impressive background. Close by was a bull-giraffe.
-Vividly standing out from the landscape, they would have
-baffled any artist trying to put them on the canvas. I
-understood then why A. H. Neumann, one of the most
-skilful English elephant-hunters, so often remarked on the
-overwhelming impression he received from these snow-white,
-shining elephant-tusks. So white do they come
-out in the photographs that the prints look as though they
-had been touched up. But these astonishing pictures are
-as free from any such tampering as are all the rest of my
-studies of animal life.<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">11</a></p>
-
-<p>Before I succeeded in getting my first picture of the
-elephants and giraffes consorting together, I was much
-tempted to kill the two huge bull-elephants. They came
-so often close to the foot of my hill that I had plenty of
-opportunities of killing them without over-much danger to
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_543">543</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_544">544</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_545">545</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_546">546</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_547">547</span>
-myself or my men. As I caught sight of that rare trio
-I must honestly confess I had a strong desire to shoot.
-This desire gave way, however, before my still keener wish
-to photograph them. The temptation to use my rifle came
-from the thought of the satisfaction with which I should
-see them placed in some museum. It might be possible
-to prepare their skins here on this very spot. In short,
-I had a hard struggle with myself.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_249" src="images/i_249.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">THE TWO ELEPHANTS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_250" src="images/i_250.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">A QUAINT COMPANIONSHIP&mdash;ELEPHANT AND GIRAFFE. THE GIRAFFE MAY BE JUST MADE OUT IN THE FOREGROUND, AT
-THE BOTTOM OF THE PHOTOGRAPH.</p></div>
-
-<p>But the wish to secure the photographs triumphed.
-No museum in the world had ever had such a picture.
-That thought was conclusive.</p>
-
-<p>The accompanying illustrations give both the colossal
-beasts in different attitudes. The giraffe stands quite
-quiet, intent on its own safety, or gazes curiously at its
-companions. What a contrast there is between the massive
-elephants and the slender, towering creature whose colouring
-harmonises so entirely with its surroundings! Wherever
-you see giraffes they always blend with their background.
-They obey the same laws as leopards in this respect, and
-leopards are the best samples of the “mimicry” of protective
-colouring.</p>
-
-<p>What long periods of hunger must have gone to the
-formation of the giraffe’s neck!</p>
-
-<p>It would seem as though these survivors of two prehistoric
-species had come together thus, at a turning-point
-in the history of their kind, for the special purpose of introducing
-themselves by means of their photographs to millions
-of people. I owe it to an extraordinary piece of good
-fortune that I was able to take another picture of them
-during a second burst of sunshine which lit up the forest.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_548">548</span></p>
-
-<p>It is the event of a lifetime to have been the witness
-of so strange and unsuspected a condition of things as this
-friendship between two such dissimilar animals. The extent
-of my good luck may be estimated from the fact that the
-famous traveller Le Vaillant, more than seventy years ago,
-wished so ardently to see a giraffe in its natural surroundings,
-<i>if only once</i>, that he went to South Africa for that
-purpose, and that, having achieved it on a single occasion,
-as he relates in his work, he was quite overjoyed. Although
-I was aware that herds of giraffes frequented this region
-without fear of the elephants, it was a complete revelation
-to me to find an old bull-giraffe living in perfect harmony
-for days together with two elephants for the sake of mutual
-protection. I can only account for this strange alliance
-by the need for such mutual protection. The giraffe is
-accustomed to use its eyes to assure itself of its safety,
-whilst elephants scent the breeze with their trunks,
-raised like the letter S for the purpose. In these valleys
-the direction of the wind varies very often. The struggle
-for existence is here very vividly brought before us. How
-often in the course of centuries must similar meetings have
-occurred in Africa and in other parts of the world, before
-I was able to record this observation for the first time?
-These pictures are a good instance of the value of photography
-as a means of getting and giving information in
-regard to wild life.</p>
-
-<p>Kilepo Hill will always stand out vividly in my memory.
-Elephants may still climb up to the small still lake shut in
-by the wall-like hillsides, as they have done for ages, to
-quench their thirst at its refreshing waters. For hundreds
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_549">549</span>
-of years the Masai, for the sake of their cattle herds, contested
-with them the rights of this drinking-place. Then
-the white man came and the Masai vanished, and again the
-elephants found their way to the Kilepo valley. Later,
-white settlers came&mdash;Boers, ruthless in their attitude towards
-wild life&mdash;and took up their abode in the Kilimanjaro region.
-The day cannot now be far distant when the last of the
-elephants will have gone from the heart of Kilepo Hill.
-But these two, long since killed, no doubt, will continue to
-live on in my pictures for many a year to come.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_254" src="images/i_254.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">THE YOUNG LION THAT I MANAGED TO CAPTURE AND
-BRING ALIVE INTO CAMP.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_550">550</span></p></div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="XIII">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_255" src="images/i_255.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption">A STUDY IN PROTECTIVE “MIMICRY.”</span></span>
-
-XIII<br />
-
-A Vanishing Feature of the Velt</h2>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">“When</span> men and beasts first emerged from the
-tree called ‘Omumborombongo,’ all was dark.
-Then a Damara lit a fire, and zebras, gnus, and giraffes
-sprang frightened away, whilst oxen, sheep, and dogs
-clustered fearlessly together.” So Fritsch told us forty
-years ago, from the ancient folk-lore of the Ova-Herero,
-one of the most interesting tribes of South-West Africa.</p>
-
-<p>If the photographing of wild life is only to be achieved
-when conditions are favourable, and is beset with peculiar
-difficulties in the wilderness of Equatorial Africa, one
-might at least suppose that such huge creatures as elephants,
-rhinoceroses, and giraffes could be got successfully upon
-the “plate.” But they “spring frightened away”! The
-cunning, the caution, and the shyness of these animals
-make all attempts at photographing them very troublesome
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_551">551</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_552">552</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_553">553</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_554">554</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_555">555</span>
-indeed; for to secure a good result you need plenty
-of sunlight, besides the absence of trees between you and
-the desired object. And when everything seems to favour
-you, there is sure to be something wanting&mdash;very probably
-the camera itself. Fortune favours the photographer at
-sudden and unexpected moments, and then only for a very
-short while. One instant too late, and you may have
-to wait weeks, months, even years for your next opportunity.
-I would give nine-tenths of the photos I have
-taken of animal life for some half-dozen others which I was
-unable to take because I did not have my camera to hand
-just at the right moment. Thus it was with the photographing
-of the three lions I killed on January 25, 1897,
-and of the four others I saw on the same day, on the then
-almost unknown Athi plains in the Wakikuju country.
-Also with that great herd of elephants which so nearly did
-for me, and which I should have dearly liked to photograph
-just as they began their onrush. (I have told the story
-in <i>With Flashlight and Rifle</i>.) I remember, too, the sight
-of a giraffe herd of forty-five head which I came across
-on November 4, 1897,<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">12</a> about two days’ journey north-west
-of the Kilimanjaro. The hunter of to-day would travel
-over the velt for a very long while before meeting with
-anything similar. In earlier days immense numbers of
-long-necked giraffe-like creatures, now extinct, lived on the
-velt; the rare Okapi, that was discovered in the Central
-African forests a short time ago, has aroused the interest
-of zoologists as being a relative of that extinct species.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_257" src="images/i_257.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A GIRAFFE IN FULL FLIGHT.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_258" src="images/i_258.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A GIRAFFE BULL IN AN ACACIA GROVE.</p></div>
-
-<p>Within the last hundred or even fifty years, the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_556">556</span>
-giraffe itself was to be found in large herds in many parts
-of Africa. The first giraffe of which we know appeared
-in the Roman arena. About two hundred years ago we
-are told some specimens were brought over to Europe, and
-caused much astonishment. The Nubian menageries some
-years ago brought a goodly number of the strange beasts
-to our zoological gardens.<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">13</a> But how many people have
-seen giraffes in their native haunts? When, in 1896, I saw
-them thus for the first time, I realised how thin and
-wretched our captive specimens are by the side of the
-splendid creatures of the velt. Le Vaillant, in his accounts
-of his travels in Cape Colony and the country known to-day
-as German South-West Africa, gives a spirited description
-of these animals, and tells how after much labour and
-trouble he managed to take a carefully dried skin to the
-coast and to send it to Germany. That was seventy years
-ago. Since then many Europeans have seen giraffes, but
-they have told us very little about them. The German
-explorer Dr. Richard B&ouml;hm has given us wonderfully
-accurate information about them and their ways. But the
-beautiful water-colours so excellently drawn by a hand so
-soon to be disabled in Africa, were lost in that dreadful
-conflagration in which his hunting-box on the peaceful Wala
-River and most of his diaries were destroyed. Dr. Richard
-Kandt, whilst on his expeditions in search of the sources
-of the Nile, found the charred remains of the hut. “Ubi
-sunt, qui ante nos in mundo fuere?”</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_263" src="images/i_263.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A SUCCESSFUL PHOTOGRAPH, TAKEN AFTER A LONG PURSUIT AND MANY FAILURES.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_264a" src="images/i_264a.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-    <td><img id="i_264b" src="images/i_264b.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td colspan="2"><img id="i_264c" src="images/i_264c.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr></table>
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption"><small>TELEPHOTO STUDIES OF GIRAFFES</small> (<i><small>GIRAFFA SCHILLINGSI</small></i>, Mtsch.).</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Zoological experts tell us that there are several species
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_557">557</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_558">558</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_559">559</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_560">560</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_561">561</span>
-of giraffe inhabiting separate zoological regions. In the
-districts I traversed, I came across an entirely new species....
-Their life and habits interested me beyond measure.
-I often think of them still&mdash;moving about like phantoms
-among the thorny bushes, and in and out the sunlit woods,
-or standing out silhouetted against the horizon.</p>
-
-<p>Though by nature peaceful, the giraffe is not defenceless&mdash;a
-kick from one of its immense legs, or a blow sideways
-with the great thick-necked head of a bull, would
-be quite enough to kill a mere man. But this gigantic
-beast, whose coat so much resembles that of the blood-thirsty
-tiger, leopard, and jaguar, never attacks, and only
-brings its forces into play for purposes of defence. It
-harms no man, and it has lived on the velt since time
-immemorial. It is the more to be deplored, therefore, that
-it should disappear now so quickly and so suddenly.</p>
-
-<p>I have already remarked several times on the way
-giraffes and other African mammals harmonise in their
-colouring with their environment. Professor V. Schmeil
-has pointed out how my opinion in this respect accords
-with that of earlier observers.<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">14</a> The way in which giraffes
-mingle with their surroundings as regards not only their
-colour but also their form, is especially astonishing. The
-illustration on page 550 proves this in a striking manner,
-for it shows how the outlines of the giraffe correspond
-exactly with those of the tree close to it.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_562">562</span></p>
-
-<p>One may spend days and weeks on the velt trying
-to get near giraffes without result. Far away on the
-horizon you descry the gigantic “Twigga”&mdash;as the
-Waswahili call it&mdash;but every attempt to approach is in
-vain. Then, all of a sudden it may happen&mdash;as it did once
-to me near the Western Njiri marshes, Nov. 29, 1898&mdash;that
-a herd of giraffes passes quite near you without fear. On
-the occasion in question, as is so often the case, I had
-not my photographic apparatus at hand. I could have got
-some excellent pictures with quite an ordinary camera.
-The giraffes came towards me until within sixty paces.
-They then suddenly took wildly to flight. The little herd
-consisted of nine head: an old very dark-spotted bull, a
-light-spotted cow, three younger cows with a calf each, and
-finally a young dark-spotted bull. Orgeich and I had been
-able to observe the animals quietly as they stood, as if
-rooted to the spot, with their long necks craned forward,
-their eyes fixed upon us.<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">15</a> I cannot explain why the
-animals were so fearless on that occasion. It was a most
-unusual occurrence, for ordinarily giraffes manage to give
-the sportsman a wide berth.</p>
-
-<p>Again, it may happen, especially about midday, that the
-hunter will sight a single giraffe or a whole herd at no
-very great distance. At these times, if one is endowed with
-good lungs and is in training, one may get close enough to
-the creatures before they take to flight.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_563">563</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_564">564</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_269" src="images/i_269.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>Hauptmann Merker, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">GIRAFFE STUDIES.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_565">565</span></p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_270" src="images/i_270.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">GIRAFFE STUDIES.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_566">566</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_567">567</span></p></div>
-
-<p>Or it may happen that you will sight giraffes about
-noontide sheltering under the fragrant acacia trees. I
-remember one occasion especially, in the neighbourhood
-of the Gelei volcanic hills. I had hardly penetrated
-for more than about a hundred and twenty paces into
-an acacia wood, when I suddenly saw the legs of several
-gigantic giraffes&mdash;their heads were hidden in the crowns
-of mimosa. The wind was favourable. I might within a
-few minutes find myself in the middle of the herd! But,
-a moment later, I felt the ground tremble and the huge
-beasts with their hard hoofs were thumping over the
-sun-baked ground. They crashed through the branches
-and fled to the next shelter of mimosa trees. Although
-I might easily have killed some of them, it was absolutely
-impossible to take a photograph. But I was at times more
-fortunate in snapshotting single specimens. Carefully
-and cautiously, I would creep forward, of course alone,
-leaving my people behind, until I came within about twenty
-paces of the giraffe. By dodging about the trees or shrubs
-near which it stood I have sometimes managed to obtain
-good pictures of the animal making off in its queer way.
-The utmost caution was necessary. I had to consider
-not only the place where the animal was but the position
-of the sun, and that most carefully. The possibility of
-photographing giraffes with the telephoto lens is very
-slight indeed. One’s opportunities are turned to best
-account by the skilful use of an ordinary hand-camera.</p>
-
-<p>In this way, also, I managed to get pictures of the
-peculiar motion of giraffes in full flight. My negatives
-are a proof of the comparative ease with which native
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_568">568</span>
-hunters may hunt giraffes with poisoned arrows. I have
-often met natives in possession of freshly killed giraffe
-flesh.</p>
-
-<p>In most cases bushes and trees are a great hindrance
-to the taking of photographs, especially of large herds. At
-such times it was as good as a game of chess between the
-photographic sportsman and the animals. For hours I
-have followed them with a camera ready to snapshot, but
-the far-sighted beasts have always frustrated my plans.
-Thus passed hours, days and weeks. But good luck would
-come back again, and I was sometimes able to develop an
-excellent negative in a camp swarming with mosquitoes.</p>
-
-<p>It is especially in the peculiar light attendant on the
-rainy season and amidst tall growths that giraffes mingle
-so with their surroundings. It is only when the towering
-forms are silhouetted against the sky that they can be
-clearly seen on the open velt. At midday, when the velt
-is shimmering with a thousand waves of light, when everything
-seems aglow with the dazzling sun, even the most
-practised eye can scarcely distinguish the outlines of single
-objects. By such a light the sandy-coloured oryx antelopes
-and the stag-like waterbuck look coal-black; the uninitiated
-take zebras for donkeys&mdash;they appear so grey&mdash;and rhinoceroses
-resting on the velt for ant-hills. But giraffes
-especially mingle with the surrounding mimosa woods at
-this hour in such a way as only those who have seen it
-could believe possible.</p>
-
-<p>When you see these animals in their wild state, your
-thoughts naturally revert to the penned-up tame specimens
-in zoological gardens or those preserved in museums.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_569">569</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_570">570</span>
-\<span class="pagenum" id="Page_571">571</span>
-Well do I remember that the first wild zebra I saw looked
-to me little like a tame specimen in a zoological garden.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_274" src="images/i_274.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A HERD OF GIRAFFES: THE LEADER, A POWERFUL OLD BULL, IN THE FOREGROUND.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_276" src="images/i_276.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">TWO GIRAFFES OUT OF A HERD I CAME UPON IN THE VICINITY OF THE MASAI COLONY CALLED KIRARAGUA, NOW
-ALMOST BEREFT OF WILD LIFE OWING TO THE IMMIGRATION OF THE BOERS. THE ANIMALS MAY HERE BE SEEN
-IN VERY CHARACTERISTIC SURROUNDINGS, ACACIA WOODS ALTERNATING WITH WIDE EXPANSES COVERED WITH
-BOWSTRING HEMP.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_278" src="images/i_278.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang"><small>HEAD OF A GIRAFFE</small> (<i><small>GIRAFFA RETICULATA</small></i> De Winton), <small>KILLED IN SOUTH SOMALILAND
-BY THE EXPLORER CARLO VON ERLANGER</small>. (<small>BY KIND PERMISSION OF
-THE BARONESS VON ERLANGER.</small>)</p></div>
-
-<p>The death-knell of the giraffe has tolled. This wonderful
-and harmless animal<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">16</a> is being completely annihilated! Fate
-has decreed that a somewhat near relative should be discovered
-in later days&mdash;namely the Okapi, which inhabits
-the Central African forests. It may be safely asserted that
-these unique animals will exist long after the complete
-extermination of the real giraffe. The species of giraffe,
-however, which has been dying out in the north and south
-of the African continent will be represented in the future
-by pictures within every man’s reach. Every observation
-as to their habits, every correct representation obtained,
-every specimen preserved for exhibition is of real value.
-And this I would impress on every intelligent man who
-has the opportunity of doing any of these things out in
-the wild.</p>
-
-<p>Professor Fritsch saw giraffes in South Africa as late
-as 1863. Shortly before these lines were printed he gave
-a glowing account of the impression they then made on
-him, an impression which was renewed when he saw my
-pictures.</p>
-
-<p>Large herds of giraffes still flourish in remote districts.
-My friend Carlo von Erlanger, whose early death is much
-to be regretted, found the animals particularly timid in
-South Somaliland when he traversed it for the first time.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_572">572</span>
-A fine stuffed specimen of these beautifully coloured giraffes
-is to be found in the Senckenberg Museum in Frankfort-on-Maine.
-An illustration gives the head of a giraffe killed
-by my late friend, and proves to the reader how much the
-two species differ&mdash;namely the South Somaliland giraffe as
-here depicted,<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">17</a> and that which I was the first to discover
-in Masailand. We have in Erlanger’s diary and in this
-illustration the only existing information about the presence
-of the giraffe in South Somaliland, a region which none
-but my daring friend and his companions have so far
-traversed.</p>
-
-<p>Hilgert, Carlo von Erlanger’s companion, mentions the
-frequent presence of the South Somali giraffe, but says that
-they showed themselves so shy that the members of the
-expedition generally had to content themselves with the
-numerous tracks of the animals or with the sight of them
-in the far distance.</p>
-
-<p>Meanwhile an effort is being made to save and protect
-what remains of the giraffe species in Africa. But there is
-little hope of ultimate success. I do trust, however, that a
-wealth of observations, illustrations, and specimens may be
-secured for our museums before it is too late. In this way,
-at least, a source of pleasure and information will be provided
-for future generations, and the giraffe will not share
-the fate of so many other rare creatures which no gold will
-ever give back to us.</p>
-
-<p>With sad, melancholy, wondering eyes the giraffe seems
-to peer into the world of the present, where there is room
-for it no longer. Whoever has seen the expression in
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_573">573</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_574">574</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_575">575</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_576">576</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_577">577</span>
-those eyes, an expression which has been immortalised
-by poets in song and ballad for thousands of years, will
-not easily forget it, any more than he will forget the strong
-impression made on him when he looked at the “Serafa”
-of the Arabs in the wilderness.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_283" src="images/i_283.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>Hauptmann, Merker phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">GIRAFFE STUDY.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_284" src="images/i_284.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A TELEPHOTOGRAPH TAKEN AT A DISTANCE OF 200 PACES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_286" src="images/i_286.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption"><i><small>GIRAFFA SCHILLINGSI</small></i>, Mtsch.</p></div>
-
-<p>The day cannot be far distant when the beautiful eyes
-of the last “Twigga” will close for ever in the desert.
-No human skill will be able to prevent this, in spite of the
-progress of human knowledge and human technique. The
-giraffe can never enter the little circle of domesticated
-animals. Therefore it must go. Perhaps its eyes will
-close in the midst of the Elelescho jungle, thus lessening
-still further the fascination of that survival from the youth
-of the world.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_288" src="images/i_288.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">CRESTED CRANES ON THE WING.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_578">578</span></p></div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="XIV">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_289" src="images/i_289.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption">HUNGRY VULTURES IN THE VICINITY OF MY CAMP.</span></span>
-
-XIV<br />
-
-Camping out on the Velt</h2>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">Among</span> the happiest days of my life I reckon those
-which I spent camping out in the heart of the Ny&iacute;ka.</p>
-
-<p>Nearly every hour there had something fresh to arouse
-my interest, not only in the life of the wild animals that
-roamed at large all about, but also in that of the specimens
-which I had caught or my men had brought to me, and
-whose habits and ways I could observe within the enclosure
-of the camp. Of course our unique menagerie could not
-boast members of all the most attractive species of the
-African fauna, but it included some very rare and
-interesting animals which Europe has never seen. To
-know these one must go and live in wildest Africa and see
-them at home.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_290" src="images/i_290.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">PITCHING CAMP WITH A VIEW TO A LONG STAY.</p></div>
-
-<p>My camp at times was like a little kingdom. Many
-of my people went out for weeks together to barter for
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_579">579</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_580">580</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_581">581</span>
-fruits and vegetables with agrarian tribes. With the rest,
-I spent my days out in the open, hunting, collecting,
-and observing. My zoological collection increased daily,
-time flew by with all the many jobs there were to be
-done&mdash;drying, preserving, preparing, sorting, labelling, and
-sending off specimens. The primitive camp life was full
-of interest in spite of its seeming monotony. It was like
-ruling and ordering a little State. I thoroughly enjoyed
-this simple existence, in which I seemed to forget the
-artificial worries of civilisation and to be able to give
-myself up to my love for nature.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_292" src="images/i_292.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">MY TAXIDERMIST, ORGEICH, AT WORK.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Then I learned to appreciate the natives. Of course
-they are not to be judged from a European standpoint as
-regards habits and customs, but I shall always remember
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_582">582</span>
-with pleasure certain strong and good characters among
-my followers.</p>
-
-<p>Nomadic hunters&mdash;shy and suspicious as the animals
-they hunted&mdash;sometimes paid us passing visits, whilst
-the whole world of beasts and birds thronged around
-our “outpost of civilisation,” so suddenly planted in
-their midst.</p>
-
-<p>My goods and chattels were stowed away in a hut
-which I had put up myself, and which was protected from
-wind, rain, and sun by masses of reeds and velt grasses.
-This hut was of the simplest construction, but I was very
-proud of it. It was useful not only for protecting zoological
-collections from the all-pervading rays of the sun, and
-from rain and cold, but also from the numerous little
-fiends of insects against which continual warfare has to
-be waged. The destructive activity of ants is a constant
-source of annoyance to travellers and collectors; I
-remember how my one-time fellow-traveller Prince
-Johannes L&ouml;wenstein had the flag on his tent destroyed
-by them in a single night. In one night also these ants
-bit through the ticket-threads by which my specimens
-were classified; in one night, again, the tiny fiends
-destroyed the bottoms of several trunks which had been
-carelessly put away!</p>
-
-<p>One has to wage constant warfare against destroyers of
-every kind.</p>
-
-<p>My cow, which was very valuable to me, not only as
-giving milk to my people, but also for nourishing young
-wild animals, was penned at night-time within a thick
-thorn hedge. My people made themselves more or less
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_583">583</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_584">584</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_585">585</span>
-skilfully constructed shelters under the bushes and trees.
-Thus a miniature village grew up, of which I was the
-despotic ruler. The native hunters who visited us would
-sometimes accompany me on long expeditions.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_294" src="images/i_294.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">TERMITEN ANT-HILLS.</p></div>
-
-<p>For me there are no “savages.” When an intelligent
-man comes across a tribe hitherto unknown to him he will
-carefully study their seemingly strange habits, and thus
-will soon recognise that they have their own customs and
-laws which they regard as sacred and immutable, and which
-order their whole existence. He will no longer desire the
-natives to adopt the manners and customs of the white man,
-for which they are absolutely unsuited.</p>
-
-<p>But by the time I got friendly with these nomads they
-were off again. It is against their habits to stay long in
-one place, and they do not willingly enter into close relations
-with a European&mdash;or indeed with any one. Suddenly one
-fine morning we find their sleeping quarters empty; they
-have disappeared, never to return. No obligation, no
-command, would ever bind these wanderers to one place.
-Children of the moment, children of the wilderness, their
-lives are spent in constant roaming.</p>
-
-<p>I hardly ever had a leisure hour, for there
-was much to arrange and see to in my camp. I
-had many functions to perform. I was my own
-commissioner of public safety; I looked after the commissariat;
-I was doctor and judge. I supervised all the
-other offices and pursued a number of handicrafts. Like
-Hans Sach I followed with pride the avocations of
-shoemaker, tailor, joiner, and smith, my very scanty
-acquaintance with all these various trades being put to
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_586">586</span>
-astonishingly good use. I was like the one-eyed man
-among the blind.</p>
-
-<p>What judgments of Solomon have I not given! Once
-two of my best people quarrelled, an Askari and his wife.
-The serious character of the quarrel could be estimated
-from the noise of weeping and the sound of blows that had
-proceeded from their tent. The man wished to separate
-from his wife.</p>
-
-<p>“Why did you beat your wife last night?”</p>
-
-<p>The Askari (who has served under both German and
-English masters) stands to attention.</p>
-
-<p>“Because she was badly behaved&mdash;I will not keep
-her any more&mdash;I am sending her away.”</p>
-
-<p>“But why&mdash;rafiki yangu?&mdash;my friend? Such things
-will happen at times, but it is not always so bad&mdash;see?
-Who will look after you? who will prepare your meals?
-Look at her once more; she is very pretty&mdash;don’t you
-think so? And she cooks very well” (both parties, as
-well as the bystanders, are smiling by now). “Go along,
-then, and make friends.”</p>
-
-<p>And they go and make friends.</p>
-
-<p>A deputation of the Waparis come to the camp. They
-crouch down near my tent and beg for a “rain charm” to
-bring down showers upon their fields. It is somewhat
-difficult to help them. I take the gifts which they bring to
-pay for the charm and make them a more valuable return,
-and by means of the barometer I am able to foretell rain.
-They gaze at the wizard and his charm wonderingly, and
-come again later to see them both.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_298" src="images/i_298.jpg" alt="" />
-
-<p class="hang">AN UNUSUALLY LARGE ANT-HILL. INSIDE THIS STRONGHOLD THE “QUEEN”
-ANT IS TO BE FOUND WALLED UP IN A SMALL CELL. SHE IS CONSIDERABLY
-LARGER THAN THE OTHER ANTS AND DEVOTES HERSELF
-EXCLUSIVELY TO HER TASK OF LAYING EGGS. THE KING ON THE OTHER
-HAND, NOT MUCH LARGER THAN THE REST, IS IN COMMAND OF THE
-“WORKERS” AND THE SOLDIERS.</p></div>
-
-<p>Countless similar events succeed one another, and ever
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_587">587</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_588">588</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_589">589</span>
-the everyday monotony of the simple camp life has its
-delights.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_300" src="images/i_300.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">MY FELLOW TRAVELLER PRINCE L&Ouml;WENSTEIN, WHOSE TENT WAS ONCE
-ENTIRELY DESTROYED BY ANTS IN A SINGLE NIGHT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_301" src="images/i_301.jpg" alt="" />
-
-<p class="caption">THE ANT-HILLS ARE SO STRONGLY BUILT AND SO HARD THAT THEY OFFER
-AN EXTRAORDINARILY STRONG RESISTANCE TO ALL EFFORTS TO DESTROY
-THEM BY PICK AND SHOVEL.</p></div>
-
-<p>Day by day my menagerie increases. To-day it is a
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_590">590</span>
-young lion I add to it, to-morrow a hyena, a jackal, a
-monkey, a marabou, geese, and other velt-dwellers, all of
-which I instal as members of my little community and try
-to become friends with. My efforts have sometimes been
-amply rewarded. Once during the early morning hours we
-discovered a large troop of baboons. It was cool: the
-cold, damp morning mist grew into a drizzling rain; the
-animals huddled up closely together for the sake of warmth.
-Later they came down to seek their food. Cautiously we
-posted ourselves as if we had not noticed the monkeys.
-But remembering their long sight, I organised a battue,
-which succeeded admirably and secured me several young
-ones. At first the comical creatures obstinately withstood
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_591">591</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_592">592</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_593">593</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_594">594</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_595">595</span>
-all efforts to tame them. Soon, however, they got to
-recognise their attendant, and became attached to him.
-Unlike other species of monkeys, baboons are full of
-character. Like some dogs, they are devoted to their
-masters but antagonistic to other people. They show their
-dislike for strangers very clearly. I was always much
-touched, when I came back from a long tramp on the velt,
-to be met with outbursts of joy by my chained-up baboons.
-They recognised their master in the far distance, reared
-themselves on their hind legs, and gave demonstrations of
-joy in every possible way as they saw him approaching.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_303a" src="images/i_303a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">“POSCHO! POSCHO!” MY CARAVAN-LEADER HANDING OUT PROVISIONS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_303b" src="images/i_303b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">BEARER’S WIFE GETTING READY THE EVENING MEAL.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_304a" src="images/i_304a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">MY YOUNG BABOONS IN FRONT OF MY TENT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_304b" src="images/i_304b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">YOUNG OSTRICHES.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_306" src="images/i_306.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">MARABOU NESTS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Sometimes, too, other inmates of my camp evinced
-their pleasure at my appearance. This was especially
-the case with a marabou which I had caught when fully
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_596">596</span>
-grown. As he had been slightly hurt in the process
-of capture, I tended him myself most carefully, and
-experienced great satisfaction on his restoration to health.
-From the time of his recovery the bird was faithful to
-me, and did not leave the camp any more, although he
-was only caged at night-time! He attached himself to
-my headman, and tried to bite both men and beasts
-whom he considered as not to be trusted, and generally
-sat very solemnly in the vicinity of my camp and greeted
-me on my home-comings by wagging his head and
-flapping his wings. Such a clatter he made as he
-gravely rushed backwards and forwards! Not until I
-caressed him would he be quiet. After a time he began
-to build himself a nest under the shade of a bush quite
-close to my tent. The dimensions of this nest gradually
-increased in an extraordinary manner. This eyrie he
-defended to the utmost, and would not allow my blacks
-to go near it, or any of his animal companions. Great
-battles took place, but he always made his opponents
-take to their heels, and even the poor old donkey, if it
-happened to come his way. On the other hand, he was
-very friendly with my young rhinoceros. It was an
-extraordinary sight to see the rhinoceros with its friends,
-the goats and the solemn bird. Two fine Colobus
-monkeys, three young lions, young ostriches, geese, and
-various other creatures made up my little zoological
-garden. They all were good friends among themselves
-and with my tame hens, which used to prefer to lay
-their eggs in my tent and in those of the bearers.
-Sometimes I used to entrust some francolin eggs to
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_597">597</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_598">598</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_599">599</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_600">600</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_601">601</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_602">602</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_603">603</span>
-these hens. (Hardly any of the many beautiful East
-African species of francolins have so far been brought
-alive to Europe.) Once I had for weeks the pleasure
-of seeing some beautiful yellow-throated francolins
-(<i>Pternistes leucosepus infuscatus</i>, Cab.) running about
-perfectly tame among the other animals in camp.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_309" src="images/i_309.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">ONE OF MY MARABOUS, NOW IN THE BERLIN ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, BUILT A GREAT NEST IN MY CAMP.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_310" src="images/i_310.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">TWO DENIZENS OF THE VELT WHO BECAME MEMBERS OF MY CAMP AND ARE NOW IN THE BERLIN ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_312" src="images/i_312.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A RATHER MIXED-UP PHOTOGRAPH! MY YOUNG RHINOCEROS, WITH HER TWO COMPANIONS THE GOAT AND THE KID.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I was often able to contemplate idyllic scenes among
-my quaint collection of animals. The behaviour of my
-baby rhinoceros interested me greatly. It was the pet
-of my caravan, and I was very proud of having reared
-it, for I had longed for two years for such a little
-creature, and had made many vain attempts to obtain
-one. Its friendship with two goats I have already
-mentioned in my previous book. They formed a strange
-trio. Very often the kid used the rhinoceros as a cushion,
-and all three were inseparable. The beast and the two
-goats often made little excursions out into the immediate
-neighbourhood of my camp. At these times they were
-carefully guarded by two of my most trustworthy people.
-The “rhino” was provided with its accustomed vegetable
-foods. When the little beast was in a good humour it
-would play with me like a dog, and would scamper about
-in the camp snorting in its own peculiar way. Such
-merry games alternated with hours of anxiety, during
-which I was obliged to give my foster-child food and
-medicine with my own hands, and to fight the chigoes
-(<i>Sarcopsylla penetrans</i>, L.), commonly called “jiggers,” those
-horrible tormentors which Africa has received from
-America.</p>
-
-<p>In the evening my flocks and herds of sheep, goats
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_604">604</span>
-and cattle came home, and among them some gnus
-which I had been able to obtain from an Arab through
-the friendly help of Captain Merker. It reminded one
-of pictures of old patriarchal days to see the animals
-greet their expectant calves and kids. It was always
-interesting, too, to watch the skilful handling of the
-cattle by the Masai herdsmen. The cows in Africa all
-come from Asia, and belong to the zebu family. They
-will only give milk when their calves have first been
-allowed to suck. Only then can the cow be milked,
-and that with difficulty, whilst a second herdsman holds
-the calf for a while a little distance off. Thus it was I
-obtained, very sparingly at first, the necessary milk for
-my young rhinoceros. Some days there was a grand
-show of varied animal life. Cows, bullocks, sheep,
-goats, my rhinoceros, young lion-cubs, hyenas, jackals,
-servals and monkeys, hens, francolins and marabou,
-geese, and other frequenters of the velt were in the
-camp, some at liberty and some chained, which caused
-many little jealousies and much that was interesting
-to notice.</p>
-
-<p>My kitchen garden was invaded by tame geese and
-storks, which lived on the best of terms with the cook.
-It was irresistibly funny to see the sage old marabou
-acting as cook’s assistant, gravely crouching near him
-and watching all his movements. Very often the tame
-animals in my camp had visitors in the shape of wild
-storks and geese, which came and mixed among the
-others, so that often one could not distinguish which
-were wild and which tame. We could see all kinds of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_605">605</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_606">606</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_607">607</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_608">608</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_609">609</span>
-animals coming close to the camp. I have even followed
-the movements of rhinoceroses with my field-glasses for
-some time.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_318" src="images/i_318.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">MY RHINOCEROS AS SHE IS TO-DAY IN THE BERLIN “ZOO,” AND&mdash;</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_317" src="images/i_317.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">&mdash;AS SHE WAS IN MY VELT CAMP.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Some of my captives were not to be tamed at any
-price. We had a young hyena, for instance, which
-struggled obstinately with its chain. On the other hand,
-some hyenas, especially spotted ones, became so domesticated
-that they followed me about like dogs.</p>
-
-<p>A young lion which I had had in my camp for some
-time, and which had grown into quite a fine specimen,
-often made itself so noticeable at night that, as my watchman
-told me, it was answered by other lions from outside.
-This made it necessary to take active precautions for the
-night, and my menagerie was brought into the centre of
-my camp for greater safety.</p>
-
-<p>Many of the friendships which I formed with my
-<i>prot&eacute;g&eacute;s</i> have been kept up. My marabou still remembers
-me, and greets me with great joy in his cage in the
-Berlin Zoological Garden, much to the irritation of his
-neighbour in the cage next door. I have no need to
-avoid the grip of his powerful beak, which the keeper
-has learnt to fear. He has never used this weapon
-against me. In whatever dress I may approach him he
-always recognises me, and greets me with lively demonstrations
-of pleasure. Even the rhinoceros seems to
-recognise his one-time master, although one cannot be
-quite sure of this in so uncouth a creature.</p>
-
-<p>It is very difficult to know how to manage a rhinoceros.
-It was quite a long time before I succeeded in discovering
-its best diet. Young rhinoceroses almost always succumb
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_610">610</span>
-in captivity, though seemingly so robust. We have not
-yet succeeded in bringing an elephant from German or
-British East Africa to Europe, or indeed any of the
-other animals, such as giraffes and buffaloes and antelopes,
-which live in the same districts. It appears that it is
-just these interesting wild animals which are the most
-difficult to accustom to captivity and to keep alive. The
-attempt to bring home alive a couple of the wonderful
-Kilimanjaro Colobus apes (<i>Colobus caudatus</i>, Thos.) resulted
-in one of the monkeys dying a few days after my arrival;
-the other lived for two years only, and was the sole
-specimen of its kind ever seen in Europe. Every
-zoologist and lover of animals who goes into the
-colonies has a wide field of activity open before him in
-this respect. If only more people could be made to
-take an interest in these things we might buoy ourselves
-up with the hope of obtaining and keeping some of the
-best and rarest specimens of African animal life, perhaps
-even a full-grown gorilla from the West Coast&mdash;perhaps
-even an Okapi!</p>
-
-<p>I was only able to keep my little menagerie together
-for a few weeks at a time, as I had to be constantly
-setting out on fresh expeditions. On these occasions I
-was accustomed to leave the animals in some village
-under the care of trustworthy blacks, so that I could
-take them again on my return journey to the coast.
-The weeks and months I spent in camp with my animals
-were a great source of pleasure to me. At night-time
-there were occasions when “rhinos” and “hippos” paid
-us visits, as could be plainly seen by the tracks found
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_611">611</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_612">612</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_613">613</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_614">614</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_615">615</span>
-the next morning.<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">18</a> Hyenas and jackals came very often,
-and even lions sometimes came to within a short distance
-of the camp. Thus my zoological garden, in spite of its
-size, could well boast of being, so to speak, the most
-<i>primitive</i> in the world.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_323a" src="images/i_323a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">HOW MY CAPTIVE YOUNG “RHINO” WAS CARRIED TO CAMP.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_323b" src="images/i_323b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">CARRYING A DEAD LEOPARD, TO AN ACCOMPANIMENT OF IMPROVISED SONGS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_324a" src="images/i_324a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">“FATIMA” (AS I CHRISTENED MY “RHINO”) AND HER TWO COMPANIONS
-ON THEIR WAY TO THE COAST.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_324b" src="images/i_324b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A YOUNG HYENA, WHICH I HAD EXTRACTED FROM ITS LAIR, RESISTED AT
-FIRST ALL EFFORTS AT TAMING IT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>But we had our anxious moments. Death levied its
-toll among my people, and the continual rumours of
-uprisings and attacks from outside gave plenty to talk
-about during the whole day, and often far on into the
-night over the camp-fire. When one of these charming
-African moonlit nights had set in over my homestead,
-when the noise of the bearers with their chatter and
-clatter had ceased, and my work, too, was done, then I
-used to sit awhile in front of the flickering flames and
-think. Or I would wander from fire to fire to exchange
-a few words with my watchmen, to learn their news and
-their wishes and to ask much that I wanted to know.
-This is the hour when men are most communicative, and
-unless there be urgent need of sleep the conversation
-may continue far into the night.</p>
-
-<p>There is something strangely beautiful about those
-nights in the wilderness. My thoughts go back to an
-encampment I once made at the foot of the volcanic
-mountain of Gelei, close to a picturesque rocky gorge, in
-the depths of which was a small stream&mdash;a mere trickle
-during the hot weather. Its source lay in the midst of
-an extensive acacia wood, which tailed off on one side
-into the bare, open “boga,” while on the other it became
-merged in a dense thicket of euphorbia trees, creepers,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_616">616</span>
-and elelescho bushes, impenetrable to men but affording
-a refuge to animals, even to elephants. On the day before
-I had noted the fact that Masai warriors had recently
-encamped in the neighbourhood, with cattle which they
-had got hold of on a marauding expedition (and some of
-which they had here slaughtered), and that with their booty
-they had betaken themselves over the English frontier.
-It was quite on the cards that roaming young Masai
-warriors would suddenly turn up while I was there. It
-was several days’ journey to the nearest inhabited region.
-For weeks together one would see no human soul save
-for a nomadic hunter every now and again.</p>
-
-<p>The great barren wilderness, which then in the dry
-season could boast of no verdure save the evergreen
-Hunger-plant, so well suited to the arid velt; the romantic
-site of my camp; the beautiful moonlight night, darkened
-over from time to time by great masses of clouds, heralding
-the approach of rain; the dangers lurking all around:
-everything conspired to produce a wonderful effect upon
-the mind. The night had come upon us silently, mysteriously,
-jet-black. Before the moon rose, one’s fancy
-foreshadowed some sudden incursion into the death-like
-darkness, the bodeful silence. There was something weird
-and unnatural about the stillness&mdash;it suggested the calm
-before the storm. Faint rustlings and cracklings and
-voices inaudible by day now made themselves heard.
-The world of the little living things came by its own,
-and crackled and rustled among plants and branches and
-reeds and grass. Hark! Is that the sound of a cockchafer
-or a mouse, or is it the footstep of a foe?...
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_617">617</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_618">618</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_619">619</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_620">620</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_621">621</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_622">622</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_623">623</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_624">624</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_625">625</span>
-Even within my tent there are evidences of life. Rats
-bestir themselves upon their daring enterprises, to meet
-their end, here and there, in my traps. Emin Pasha has
-told us how he experienced the same kind of thing. How
-dormice and beautiful Sterkulien made their home in his
-camp, gleefully climbing up and down the canvas of his
-tent during the night&mdash;doubtless gazing at the strange
-white man with their great, dark, wide-open eyes, as they
-did at me.... Save for these sounds there is complete
-stillness, broken only by the voice of the night-jar,
-mournful and monotonous, as it wings its eerie, noiseless
-flight in and out of the firelight and round and round the
-camp.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_329" src="images/i_329.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">VULTURES ON THE WING.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_330" src="images/i_330.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">VULTURES HOVERING OVER THE CARCASE OF A GNU WHICH HAD BEEN KILLED BY A LION.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_332" src="images/i_332.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">VULTURES MOVING AWAY FROM A CARCASE, STARTLED AT MY APPROACH. (WHEN FIGHTING OVER A CARCASE, THEY GIVE
-OUT A HISSING KIND Of SOUND.)</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_334" src="images/i_334.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption"><small>MY PELICANS</small> (<i><small>TANTALUS IBIS</small></i>, L.), <small>WHICH AFTERWARDS TOOK UP THEIR ABODE IN
-THE BERLIN ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS</small>.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_336" src="images/i_336.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A SIESTA IN CAMP. THE MIDDAY HOUR.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_626">626</span></p></div>
-
-<p>Beyond the glow of the camp-fire our eyes cannot
-travel&mdash;we cannot see what is happening outside the camp,
-even quite close at hand. This intensifies one’s feeling of
-insecurity, for I know well how suddenly and with what
-lightning speed the great felines manage their attacks. It
-is in just such circumstances that so many men fall victims
-to lion and leopard. One evening a leopard will snatch a
-small dog from your feet, the next it will carry off one of
-the native women before the eyes of the whole population
-of your camp. You must have had such things happen
-to you, or hear of them from eye-witnesses, to realise
-the danger.</p>
-
-<p>Near my tent stand two hoary old trees all hung with
-creepers. In the uncertain firelight they seem to be
-a-quiver with life, and they throw phantom-like shadows.
-I hear the soft footsteps of the watch&mdash;they recall me to
-actualities. Now the moon emerges, and suddenly sheds
-its brilliant radiance over the entire velt. It is like the
-withdrawing of a pall. My thoughts wander away upon
-the moonbeams, and travel on and on, over land and sea,
-like homing birds.... The reader who would steep himself
-in the beauty and strangeness of this African camp-life
-should turn to the pages of that splendid work <i>Caput
-Nili</i>, by my friend Richard Kandt. There he will find
-it all described by a master-hand in a series of exquisite
-nature-pictures. In language full of poetic beauty he
-gives us the very soul of the wilderness. These studies
-and sketches, from the pen of the man who discovered the
-sources of the Nile, are a veritable work of art. It is
-easier for the nature-lover to give himself up to the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_627">627</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_628">628</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_629">629</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_630">630</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_631">631</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_632">632</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_633">633</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_634">634</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_635">635</span>
-charms of this African solitude than to set them forth
-adequately in words.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_339" src="images/i_339.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A STRANGE FRIENDSHIP SPRANG UP BETWEEN A SMALL APE AND A GOSHAWK THAT I HAD AT HOME AT AN EARLIER
-DATE. THE APE USED OFTEN TO PULL THE BIRD ABOUT PLAYFULLY, WHILE TWO STORKS LOOKED ON WITH INTEREST.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_340" src="images/i_340.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">“FATIMA” PROWLING ROUND. SHE WAS ON PARTICULARLY GOOD TERMS WITH THE MARABOU.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_342" src="images/i_342.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">CARRYING A FINE LEOPARD, WEIGHING 145 POUNDS, INTO CAMP. IT HAD BEEN TRAPPED.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_344a" src="images/i_344a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">THE BEARERS ALWAYS LIKE TO “KILL” THE GAME IN ACCORDANCE WITH
-MOHAMMEDAN RITES, EVEN WHEN DEATH HAS ALREADY BEEN ENSURED
-BY THE HUNTERS AND HAS BEGUN TO SET IN. WHEN THESE RITES
-CANNOT BE FULFILLED, THEY WILL SOMETIMES REFUSE TO EAT THE
-FLESH.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_344b" src="images/i_344b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">WHILE THE GAME IS BEING CUT UP, THE NATIVES OFTEN HAVE RECOURSE TO
-INNOCENT HORSEPLAY BY WAY OF VENTING THEIR HIGH SPIRITS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Wonderful, indeed, is the beauty of those African
-moonlight nights. Their radiant splendour is a thing
-never to be forgotten. How taint and faded in comparison
-seem our moonlight nights at home!</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_346" src="images/i_346.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A TRAPPED LEOPARD.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Through the camp, past the smouldering and flickering
-fires, the Askari sentry wanders noiselessly. He is a man
-well on in years&mdash;a tried man who has often been with
-me before. Years ago he vowed he would never again
-return to the wilderness with a “Safari,” yet every time
-I revisit Africa the spell of the wild has come over him
-anew, and he has been unable to resist.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_636">636</span></p>
-
-<p>He comes to me now and says, as he has had so often
-to say before: “Master, do you hear the lions yonder in
-the distance?” And he makes his way towards the great
-fire in the centre of the camp and throws some fresh logs
-upon it. Flames spring up, blazing and flickering in the
-moonlight.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_347" src="images/i_347.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">THE BABOON AND THE LITTLE BLACK LADY.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_348" src="images/i_348.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">MOONLIGHT ON THE VELT.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_637">637</span></p></div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="XV">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_350" src="images/i_350.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption"><small>A FOWL OF THE VELT</small> (<i><small>PTEROCLES GUTTURALIS SATURATIOR</small></i>, Hart).</span></span>
-
-XV<br />
-
-Night Photography under Difficulties</h2>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">There</span> is a notion prevalent, due to superficial
-observers, that there are certain drinking-places to
-which the wild animals are bound to come to quench
-their thirst, in all circumstances, during the hot season.
-Were this so the animals would have ceased ere now to exist.
-The poisoned arrow of the native, or the rifle of the white
-man, would long since have exterminated them. It is
-the case, however, that you can count upon finding game
-at specific drinking-places in the hot weather under certain
-circumstances, though much depends upon the direction
-of the wind and other things. The appearance of the
-larger beasts of prey by the waterside is enough, for
-instance, to make the others keep their distance for a
-considerable time.</p>
-
-<p>When I have encamped in such localities it has generally
-been with a view to securing specimens of rare birds,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_638">638</span>
-and apart from this I have confined myself to making
-observations of the life of the animals. Very large
-bull-elephants were the only kind of big game that I had
-any mind to shoot, for I was never at a loss for other
-kinds. Elephants roam about in the hot season from
-one watering-place to another, sometimes covering great
-distances. They know the danger they run in frequenting
-any one particular watering-place too regularly. This is
-true of herds of other animals as well.</p>
-
-<p>These watering-places are, of course, very productive
-to the natives, who make no account of time and who
-spread themselves out over a number of them during the
-hot weather, thus multiplying their chances. But the
-havoc worked among the wild animals by their poisoned
-arrows or the other methods of hunting which they
-practise, when they have not taken to powder and shot,
-is not serious. They have been hunting in this way
-since prehistoric ages, and yet have been able to hand
-over the animal kingdom to us Europeans in all the
-fulness and abundance that have aroused our wonder and
-admiration wherever we have set foot for the first time.</p>
-
-<p>In the course of my last journey I encamped for the
-second time at the foot of the Donje-Erok mountain
-(the circuit of which is a two-days’ march), to the north-west
-of Kilimanjaro. The region had been well known to
-me since 1899. Previously to then it had been traversed
-only by Count Teleki’s expedition. His comrade, the
-well-known geographer Ritter von H&ouml;hnel, had marked
-its outlines on the map. No one, however, had penetrated
-into the interior, and here a wonderful field offered
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_639">639</span>
-itself to the sportsman and explorer. A number of small
-streams take their rise on the Donje-Erok. In the dry
-weather these are speedily absorbed by the sun-dried soil
-of the velt, but in the wet season they have quite a long
-course, and combine to form a series of small swamps.
-When these have gradually begun to dry and have come
-to be mere stretches of blackish mud, they reveal the
-tracks of the herds of animals that have waded through
-them, elephants and rhinoceroses especially&mdash;mighty autographs
-imprinted like Runic letters upon wax.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_352" src="images/i_352.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A RIVER-HORSE RESORT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the dry season great numbers of animals made
-always for a source&mdash;very speedily dried up&mdash;to the south
-of the mountain. It was in this vicinity that I proposed
-to secure my pictures of wild life.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_640">640</span></p>
-
-<p>My caravan was very much on the <i>qui vive</i> when at
-last, after a long march, we were able to strike camp.
-We had been attacked by a band of Masai warriors
-during the night and had driven them off. It was only
-natural, therefore, that we should exercise some caution.
-But our fatigue overcame all anxiety as to another attack.
-We had made a long forced march, and were worn out
-with our exertions and our sufferings from thirst and the
-heat. Some of the bearers, succumbing under the weight
-of their burdens, had remained behind. We had started
-on the previous morning, each of us provided as well as
-was practicable with water, and had marched until dark,
-passing the night waterless and pressing on at daybreak.
-It was absolutely essential now to get to a watering-place,
-so we put out all our efforts, just succeeding in reaching our
-goal after nightfall. This march was the more exhausting
-in that we had had only two hours’ sleep before the fray
-with the Masai. The bearers we had been obliged to
-leave behind were afterwards brought into camp safely
-by a relief party.</p>
-
-<p>On exploring our vicinity next morning we found that
-our camp, which was to some degree safeguarded by a
-thorn-fence&mdash;a so-called “boma”&mdash;adjoined several earlier
-camps of native elephant-hunters, protected by strong
-palisades: a thing that had often happened to us before.
-These camps are to be recognised by the empty powder-casks
-left about or by the erection somewhere near of
-a fetich or charm to ward off evil, or something of the
-kind. It is only the natives who use firearms that have
-resort to such practices. So far as I know neither the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_641">641</span>
-Wakamba nor the Wandorobo are addicted to them.
-In this particular case the charm took the shape of an
-arrangement of large snail-shells in the midst of a small
-enclosure four feet square. That it proved efficacious
-was suggested by the spectacle of the skulls and remains
-of some twenty recently killed rhinoceroses within a few
-paces of the camp.... I had met with just the same state
-of things in 1900. These “sanctioned” elephant-hunters&mdash;or,
-to use the recognised term, these “trustworthy
-Fundi”&mdash;are an absolute pest. The arch exterminator
-of the elephants in the Kilimanjaro region was Schundi,
-the former slave of a Kavirondo chief. Schundi, in his
-capacity as a political agent and licensed elephant-hunter,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_642">642</span>
-scoured the entire country with his men from 1893 to
-1900.<a id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">19</a></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_354" src="images/i_354.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">ONE OF THE PEAKS OF DONJE-EROK, IN THE VICINITY OF KILIMANJARO.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the heart of the thicket we came suddenly upon a
-quite recent camp of native hunters of some kind&mdash;not
-Wandorobo, we judged, from utensils which they left
-behind, of a sort the Wandorobo never use. I was aware
-that other tribes had taken to hunting the animals in this
-region, the Masai themselves setting about it quite in the
-Wandorobo fashion. Our chief “find” in the camp, however,
-was a collection of some forty zebra-hides, quite freshly
-secured, and about the same number of hides of gnus as
-well as others of smaller game. Most of these skins
-were stretched out on the ground to dry, fixed with pegs.
-Probably the fugitives had taken a number of others away
-with them. I came to the conclusion that the natives were
-of the class that hunt on behalf of Indian, Greek, and
-other traders&mdash;a class far too numerous nowadays. The
-traders pay them very little for their labours, and themselves
-make huge profits out of it all.</p>
-
-<p>I took possession of the skins, prepared the best of
-them very thoroughly and carefully, and then sent them
-to Moschi, for despatch to the Berlin Museum. This task
-occupied me for two days, but I undertook it with gusto,
-for I knew that by reason of the variety of species of
-zebras and gnus frequenting this region, this big collection
-of skins was of great scientific value. And I rejoiced the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_643">643</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_644">644</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_645">645</span>
-more over my treasure-trove in that it exempted me from
-shooting any more zebras or gnus myself. But my
-calculations were all to be upset. On my notification to
-the station that I had not bagged the animals myself, but
-had found them lying about in a bush-camp where they
-had been abandoned by nomadic native hunters, it was
-decided that they could not be recognised as my property
-without further proceedings. Eventually the matter was
-decided in my favour by a governmental decree, but in
-the meantime the skins were considerably damaged by
-insects and otherwise. Could I have foreseen this, I
-should not have been at the trouble and serious expense of
-saving them, but should have left them as a welcome feast
-to the hyenas and jackals. What I was still able to save
-out of the lot I sent later to the Berlin Museum.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_356" src="images/i_356.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">WHEN STARTING ON A LONG “TELEKESA-MARCH”&mdash;A MARCH OF MORE THAN TWENTY-FOUR HOURS BEFORE REACHING
-THE NEXT WATERING-PLACE&mdash;MY MEN PROVIDED THEMSELVES WITH AS MUCH WATER AS THEY COULD CARRY.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_358" src="images/i_358.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">VULTURES.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_646">646</span></p></div>
-
-<p>Near some of the drinking-places along the river
-I found the cleverly contrived reed-shelters behind
-which the natives take refuge. The immense numbers
-of vultures and jackals and hyenas showed that these
-gluttonous creatures had found an abundance of provender,
-especially near the deserted camp. The vultures, which
-were of various species, came down from their perches on
-the trees and settled on the ground quite near us. It was
-brooding-time for some of the larger species, and presently
-I found a great number of their nests with young birds
-in them. It was very interesting to watch the old birds
-and their young together.</p>
-
-<p>It took me about a week to decide on the spots best
-suited for my flashlight photographs. After a good deal
-of really hard work, and after any number of unsuccessful
-efforts, I was at last satisfied that my three cameras were
-so placed as to promise good results if I had any luck.
-But the fates seemed against me. There were hundreds
-of different drinking-places along the course of the stream,
-and with so great a choice at their disposal the animals
-appeared to give my camera a wide berth.</p>
-
-<p>Some days later we had an unpleasant surprise. One
-of my Askaris had gone at daybreak, as was his custom,
-to examine one of my jackal traps. Suddenly we heard
-the sound of shots in the direction of the trap, about
-twenty minutes’ walk from the camp. As in view of my
-strict orders against shooting at game there could be no
-question of this, we at once assumed that we had to
-reckon with an attack by natives. In a trice I had all
-my arrangements made. Dividing my armed followers
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_647">647</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_648">648</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_649">649</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_650">650</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_651">651</span>
-into two sections, I set out instantly with one of them in
-the direction of the Askari, leaving the other with Orgeich
-to defend the camp.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_361" src="images/i_361.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_362" src="images/i_362.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption"><small>FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS OF HYENAS</small> (<i><span class="smcap">HY&AElig;NA SCHILLINGSI</span></i>, Mtsch.) <small>AND JACKALS</small>.</p></div>
-
-<p>What had happened? It was the old story, so familiar
-to all experienced travellers, and showing how easily one
-may be drawn into a fight, yet how easily trouble may
-be avoided if one takes the right line. My Askari,
-normally a very steady and reliable man who had been
-in the service of the Government, had been startled by the
-sudden apparition right in front of him of a great band of
-Masai warriors armed with spears. They had raised their
-spears, no doubt instinctively, at the sight of the rifle-bearing
-soldier. He, for his part, and his two unarmed
-comrades, jumped simultaneously to the conclusion that
-these were the same Masai who had previously attacked
-us. He decided at once to fire. In an instant the Masai
-vanished in every direction.</p>
-
-<p>It was not a laughing matter. There had been recent
-fights in the neighbourhood of my camp between Masai
-warriors and the inhabitants of the Uferi district&mdash;the
-remains of men who had been killed in these frays bore
-witness to the truth of what my guides had told me about
-them. And it was not long since certain European cattle-dealers,
-at a spot some two days’ journey farther on, had
-been murdered by the Masai. These facts, taken in
-connection with the night-attack, made us realise the need
-of caution.</p>
-
-<p>On reaching the scene of the incident, I ascertained
-that a great band of Masai, accompanied by their wives,
-had been seen on the previous evening in the neighbourhood
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_652">652</span>
-of the stream, and that they had encamped for the
-night in a mouldering old kraal in the thorn-thicket, and
-it was while slumbering peacefully in this that they were
-disturbed by my Askari. Scattered all over the place
-were goods and chattels of various descriptions which they
-had left behind them in their hasty flight, and which I
-now had carefully collected together. From their nature
-I concluded that the Masai were making for some place
-at a considerable distance, and that there was, therefore,
-no danger of unpleasant consequences. I returned to my
-camp to reassure my people, and at once got some of my
-Masai friends, who had been with me for a long time, to
-go after the fugitives and bring them back. That was
-the only way to effect an understanding&mdash;any other
-messengers would have failed in the mission.</p>
-
-<p>Towards midday my Masai returned to camp with
-some thirty of the spear-armed warriors and a number
-of their women-folk. I gave them back their belongings,
-together with a present by way of <i>amende</i> for their fright.
-This they accepted with equanimity after the manner of
-all natives. Then they took their departure, the incident
-being thus happily terminated without bloodshed.</p>
-
-<p>Curiously enough, Orgeich had had a somewhat similar
-encounter with Masai a short time before. He had been
-for a turn in the neighbourhood of the camp, and was
-coming back in the dark along a rhinoceros-track. When
-he had got to within a quarter of an hour’s walk of the
-camp, there was a sudden clatter right in front of him,
-and in the uncertain moonlight he descried a band of
-armed Masai. Remembering the recent night-encounter
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_653">653</span>
-he instantly raised his rifle to fire. But the veteran soldier
-had self-control enough to resist the impulse, and in this
-case also there were no ill consequences. But, as he still
-continues to declare, it was a near thing.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_366" src="images/i_366.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">MY NIGHT-APPARATUS IN POSITION, READY TO WORK.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_654">654</span></p></div>
-
-<p>Such incidents, it will be recognised, can very easily
-lead to serious results.</p>
-
-<p>Later I was to have an unpleasant experience in
-regard to natives. A band of nomadic hunters, perhaps
-those who had encamped where I found the zebra-skins,
-had “gone for” two of my cameras. They had taken away
-all those parts of them that could be of any use to them,
-and left them of course quite useless to me. It is noteworthy
-that they did not smash them to pieces, as
-Europeans might have done. They had merely detached
-the metal portions and others which they could turn to
-some account. This loss was, however, very annoying
-to me, and I found it necessary to establish two relays
-of men on guard to look after the sole remaining
-apparatus throughout the day.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_367" src="images/i_367.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">A PET OF THE CARAVAN.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_655">655</span></p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_368" src="images/i_368.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">A BAOBAB (<i>ADANSONIA DIGITATA</i>). THESE TREES ARE OFTEN BELIEVED BY THE
-NATIVES TO BE INHABITED BY GHOSTS. THEY USED TO COME INTO THE
-STORIES TOLD BY MY FOLLOWERS.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_656">656</span></p></div>
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_657">657</span></p>
-
-<h2 id="XVI">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_370" src="images/i_370.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption">THE FIRST FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPH WITH WHICH I HAD ANY MEASURE OF
-SUCCESS! A MONGOOSE MAY BE JUST GUESSED AT UNDER THE THORN-BRANCH.</span></span>
-
-XVI<br />
-
-Photography by Day and by Night</h2>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">There</span> is an old German recipe for the catching
-of a lion: you put the Sahara through a sieve&mdash;and
-behold the King of Beasts!</p>
-
-<p>The photographing of lions is not to be managed
-so easily. I am always being asked how I took my
-photographs. I shall try to give an answer in the
-following pages.</p>
-
-<p>Before <i>With Flashlight and Rifle</i> was published, the
-only successful photographs taken by night that were
-known to me were some few excellent pictures of certain
-species of American deer, secured by an enthusiastic
-sportsman (a legal official in the service of the Government
-of the United States) after years of untiring effort.
-After any number of fruitless attempts, this gentleman
-contrived to photograph these animals grazing by night
-near the banks of a river down which he drifted in a
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_658">658</span>
-boat. He set up a row of cameras in the bow of his
-craft, and when it passed close to the deer standing in
-the water, he let his flashlight flame out, and in this way
-produced in the course of ten years or so&mdash;a number
-of very interesting photographic studies, which made
-his name well known in his own country and which won
-him a gold medal at a Paris Exhibition, where his work
-aroused much attention. I was familiar also with the
-“telephoto” pictures which Lord Delamere brought home
-from East Africa.<a id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">20</a> Those of Mr. Edward North Buxton
-were published first in 1902, so far as I know. I myself,
-I should explain, do not profess to be a complete master
-of the photographer’s art. Indeed, I rather rejoice in
-my ignorance of many of the inner secrets of the craft
-known only to experts, because I believe it has helped
-me to get a certain character into my pictures which would
-perhaps have eluded one whose mind was taken up
-with all the difficulties involved in the task.</p>
-
-<p>At first sight the photographing of animals may seem
-a simple enough matter, but if we look at the photographs
-taken in zoological gardens or in menageries or game
-reservations, or photographs taken during the winter at
-spots to which the animals have had to come for food,
-or at the various touched-up photographs one sees, we
-shall find that there are very few of any real worth from
-the standpoint of the naturalist. Whoever would take
-photographs of value should take care that they be in
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_659">659</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_660">660</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_661">661</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_662">662</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_663">663</span>
-no way altered or touched up. Touched-up photographs
-are never to be trusted.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_373" src="images/i_373.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption"><small>THE APPARATUS WHICH I FIRST USED FOR MY NIGHT-PHOTOGRAPHS,
-WITH THE SHUTTER KEPT OPEN</small> (<i>see</i> p. 687).</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_374" src="images/i_374.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">THE GOERZ-SCHILLINGS NIGHT-APPARATUS.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The story of my progress in the art of animal photography
-is soon told.</p>
-
-<p>In 1896 and 1897 I was not adequately equipped,
-and I took only a few photographs, all by daylight.</p>
-
-<p>After going through a careful course of instruction
-in Kiesling’s Photographic Institution, I did not succeed
-in entirely satisfying myself with the daylight photographs
-I took on my second expedition of 1899-1900. It was
-impossible at that time to photograph objects at great
-distances, the telephoto lens not yet carrying far enough.
-My efforts to photograph the animals by night proved
-entirely fruitless, for one reason because the flashlight
-apparatus would not work. It was exasperating to find
-that my heavy and expensive “accumulators”&mdash;procured
-after consultation with technical experts&mdash;refused to act,
-and I remember vividly how I flung them out into the
-middle of a river! I achieved but one single success
-at this period with a self-acting apparatus, namely the
-photograph of two vultures contending over carrion, here
-reproduced; one of them has been feeding, and the other
-is just about to assert its right to part of the meal. The
-attitudes of the two birds are very interesting, and one
-feels that it would have been very difficult for a painter
-to have put them on record. But all my other attempts
-failed, as I have said, from technical causes, and I had
-to content myself for the most part with photographing
-the animals I hunted, though I did succeed in getting
-pictures of a waterbuck and a giraffe at which I had not
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_664">664</span>
-shot. My photographs won so much approval from
-experts on my return home that I was encouraged to go
-further in this direction.</p>
-
-<p>But what difficulties I had to overcome! So far
-back as the year 1863 a German explorer, Professor
-Fritsch, now a member of the Privy Council, had set
-about the task of photographing wild animals in South
-Africa. Those were the days of wet collodion plates,
-and it is really wonderful how Professor Fritsch managed
-to cope with all the difficulties he had to face so far from
-all possibility of assistance. He succeeded in the course
-of his expedition in photographing an African wild animal
-upon a dry plate for the first time on record. By his
-kindness I am enabled to reproduce this historical picture
-here&mdash;it is a thing of real value. It is the photograph
-of an eland, at that time an animal often met with in
-Cape Colony, where game of all kinds has now been
-almost completely exterminated. Professor Fritsch’s
-account of his experiences should be heard for one
-to form any notion of the wealth of animal life that
-then adorned the South African velt. His photographs
-are especially interesting as the first of their
-kind. It was not until nearly forty years later that the
-English sportsmen already mentioned and I myself
-embarked systematically upon similar enterprises.</p>
-
-<p>On my third expedition in 1902 I tried to photograph
-with two telephoto cameras which had been placed at
-my disposal by the Goerz Optical Institute. Without
-attempting to explain the complicated mechanism of these
-apparatus&mdash;the idea of which came first to English
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_665">665</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_666">666</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_667">667</span>
-travellers&mdash;I may say that they are beset with difficulties.
-They require a long exposure, and are best suited, therefore,
-for stationary objects. If you wish to photograph
-animals in motion, you must learn to expose your negative
-long enough to secure a clear impression, yet not so long
-as to make the moving animals come out quite blurred.
-I am strongly of opinion that it is not of much advantage
-to make out a table of calculations as to the time of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_668">668</span>
-exposure. Experience alone can enable you to judge
-what exposure to allow. When you have got your
-shutter to the correct speed and chosen the correct
-diaphragm for your lens, you must get into the way of
-using the camera as quickly and deftly as your rifle.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_378" src="images/i_378.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">AUTOMATICALLY TAKEN PHOTOGRAPH OF TWO VULTURES ENGAGING IN A CONTEST OVER CARRION.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_380" src="images/i_380.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="hang">THE FIRST DRY-PLATE PHOTOGRAPH, PROBABLY, EVER TAKEN IN THE AFRICAN
-DESERT. THE WORK OF ONE OF THE OLDEST OF AFRICAN EXPLORERS,
-PROFESSOR FRITSCH, IT REPRESENTS AN ELAND WHICH HE HAD KILLED&mdash;A
-SPECIES THEN FREQUENTLY MET WITH IN CAPE COLONY.</p></div>
-
-<p>In this way, just as in shooting, you will learn to allow
-for the movements of the object you are aiming at&mdash;you
-will let your camera move accordingly. This needs a lot
-of practice. At the period when I was using the Goerz
-apparatus, a large number of similar cameras of all sizes
-were returned to the manufactory by practical photographers
-as unuseable. This shows how difficult it is to form any
-opinion as to the possibilities of the telephoto lens without
-going in for thorough and repeated experiments.</p>
-
-<p>It is only on rare occasions that you are able to use a
-stand-camera for photographing objects at a distance. In
-most cases you must shoulder your photographic gun, and
-it may be easily imagined what dexterity is required for its
-proper management. In following up the moving object
-with your lens you inevitably make the background something
-of a blur. You are apt at the same time to under-expose.
-The change of diaphragm and the modification
-of the speed of the shutter involve many failures. The
-telephoto lens has this advantage, however, that you can
-generally get good results with it at a hundred paces. In
-the case of birds on the wing, either rising or flying past
-you, you have to get into the way of reckoning the
-distance&mdash;a difficult matter. Of course you must always
-have the sun more or less behind you. The conditions of
-the atmosphere in the tropics&mdash;the shimmering waves of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_669">669</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_670">670</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_671">671</span>
-light that rise up out of the scorched soil, for instance&mdash;make
-it peculiarly hard to calculate the time of exposure,
-and many photographs turn out failures which you have
-felt quite sure of having taken properly. This is specially
-disappointing in the case of animals that you may never
-have another opportunity of photographing. In such cases
-I make a practice of giving as many exposures as possible,
-in the hope of one or other of them turning out right.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_382" src="images/i_382.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">THIS PHOTOGRAPH BEARS WITNESS TO THE DESIRABILITY OF HAVING PERFECTED FILMS TO WORK WITH; FOR GLASSES PLATES
-ARE APT TO BREAK AND GOOD PICTURES TO BE QUITE SPOILT IN CONSEQUENCE.</p></div>
-
-<p>You often miss splendid chances, of course, simply
-through not having your camera at hand. A few moments’
-delay may lose you an opportunity that will never come
-to you again. Then, again, you are just as apt in Africa
-as elsewhere to make the mistakes so well known to
-all photographers&mdash;wrong focussing, using the same plate
-twice, not getting your objects properly on the plate, etc.
-Nor can you always avoid having a tree or bush or branch
-between you and the animal you want to photograph.
-These things are often enough to quite spoil your picture.
-The weight of the camera, too, is in itself a hindrance.
-It is not every one who can handle a 13 &times; 18-cm. telephoto
-camera. Even a 9 &times; 12-cm. is heavy enough. It
-must be remembered that on one’s journeyings through
-the wilderness it is almost as much as one can do to carry
-with one a sufficient supply of water&mdash;that most essential
-thing of all. And one has to be most careful of the
-apparatus, for mischances may occur at any moment.</p>
-
-<p>Though my experiences and those of others will have
-had the effect of smoothing the way for all who go photographing
-in future in Equatorial Africa, still, hunting with
-the camera will remain a much more difficult thing than
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_672">672</span>
-hunting with the rifle. The practised shot needs only a
-fraction of a second to bring down his game&mdash;often he
-scarcely even sees it, and fires at it through dense shrubs
-or bushes, whereas the photographer can achieve nothing
-until he has contrived to secure a combination of favourable
-conditions, and he wants in many cases to “bring
-down” not just one animal, but a whole herd. His most
-tempting chances come to him very often when he is
-unprepared. That is why I insist upon the desirability
-of his shouldering a camera like a gun. At short range
-you can secure wonderful pictures even with an ordinary
-small hand-camera, but for this kind of work you must
-of course have good nerves.... It was in this way I
-took the photographs of the rhinoceroses in the pool
-reproduced in <i>With Flashlight and Rifle</i>, some of the
-best I ever secured. One of these, taken at a distance
-of fifteen or twenty paces, shows the “rhino,” not yet
-hit, rushing down upon Orgeich and me. In another
-instant I had thrown my little hand-camera to the
-ground, and just managed to get a bullet into him in the
-nick of time. He swerved to one side and made off
-into the thicket, where I eventually secured him. He is
-now to be seen in the Munich Museum.</p>
-
-<p>A fruitful source of disillusionment lies in the fact that
-the plates are sensitive to the light to a degree so different
-from our eyes. As the blue and violet rays chiefly act
-upon them, they cannot render the real effects of colouring.
-It is greatly to be desired that we should manage to
-perfect orthochromatic plates, sensitive to green, yellow
-and red rays of light. I myself have been unable to secure
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_673">673</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_674">674</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_675">675</span>
-good results with orthochromatic plates with the telephoto
-lens, as I have found them always too little sensitive
-to white light for instantaneous work. Latterly there has
-been produced a new kind of panchromatic plate which
-only needs an exposure of one-fiftieth part of a second, and
-I would strongly recommend its use for the photographing
-of animals for this reason.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_386" src="images/i_386.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">A PLATE WHICH I EXPOSED TWICE BY MISTAKE&mdash;SUCH MISTAKES WILL HAPPEN SOMETIMES, HOWEVER CAREFUL ONE MAY
-BE. IN ADDITION TO THE GNUS AND ZEBRAS WHICH STAND OUT CLEARLY IN THE PICTURE, FAINT OUTLINES OF
-HARTEBEESTS (ON A SMALLER SCALE) MAY BE DESCRIED.</p></div>
-
-<p>In the animal pictures of the Munich painter Z&uuml;gel,
-we see admirably rendered all the many shades of colouring
-we note, under different conditions, close at hand or far
-away, when we have the actual wild life before our eyes.
-There we note that the upper part of the animal’s body
-often reflects so strongly the cold blue of the sky that
-its own colouring is, as it were, cancelled, or at least very
-greatly modified. We note, too, that an animal in reality
-reddish-brown in colour becomes violet owing to the blue
-in the atmosphere. Refinements of form and hue are lost
-in the glare of the sun, and only the stronger outlines
-and more pronounced colours assert themselves. Sometimes
-the sun’s rays, reflected from the animals’ skins,
-produce the effect of glowing patches of light, sometimes
-they are absorbed; sometimes the animals look quite black,
-sometimes absolutely white. Photographs of animals
-taken under such conditions do not, of course, give a good
-idea of the normal colouring of the animals. The success
-of a photograph depends, therefore, very largely upon the
-nature of the light.</p>
-
-<p>For an effective picture you need to have a group
-of animals either standing still or in motion, and this you
-can very seldom get at close quarters, though now and
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_676">676</span>
-again you may happen upon them standing under trees;
-and when this occurs you may hope for good results,
-because the way in which the blue rays of light are
-reflected from the trees has a favourable effect upon
-the bromide-silver plates.</p>
-
-<p>While it is true that there can be nothing more
-disappointing than the discovery, when developing one’s
-photographs of animals in a country like Africa, that
-negatives of which one had great hopes are no good,
-this very possibility adds to the fascination of the work,
-and is, as it were, a link between the sport and that of
-our fathers and grandfathers. The kind of rifle-shooting
-we go in for nowadays has nothing in common with that
-of the hunter who was dependent upon a single bullet
-the effect of which he could only get to make sure of
-after long experience. To the true sportsman the camera
-is the best substitute for the old-fashioned gun, inasmuch
-as it involves very much the same degree of difficulty
-and danger.</p>
-
-<p>How keenly I regret that I had not the advantage
-from the first of the perfected photographic apparatus
-that has come into existence as the result of long experience!
-I look back with regret upon the many
-failures I experienced in my earlier efforts, the excitement
-of the moment often causing me to neglect
-some necessary precaution. Lions, rhinoceroses, hippopotami,
-giraffes, and antelopes innumerable&mdash;nearly all
-my attempts to photograph them were fruitless. When
-I came to develop the negatives at night-time I would
-find a blurred suggestion of the objects I had seen so
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_677">677</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_678">678</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_679">679</span>
-distinctly before me in the daylight, or else, owing
-to some mishap, an absolute blank. All the greater
-was my joy when on rare occasions I did succeed in
-getting such pictures as those of the rhinoceroses already
-referred to.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_390" src="images/i_390.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">A TELEPHOTOGRAPH OF OSTRICHES, SCARCELY DISCERNIBLE TO THE LEFT OF THE PICTURE.</p></div>
-
-<p>I made it a practice to develop at night in my tent,
-as soon as I possibly could, all negatives that I thought
-at all likely to be successful. The only negatives I sent
-to Europe were duplicates of those which I had already
-developed myself. At home, of course, the developing
-can be done much more carefully. No one who has
-not had the experience can realise what it means to have
-to develop plates in the heat and damp of Equatorial
-Africa and with the kind of water at one’s disposal there.
-When I found that my negatives were successful, not
-content with developing them, I always made a number of
-bromide-silver copies of them. These were put away in
-separate cases and the original was despatched home as
-soon as possible. If this original negative got lost <i>en
-route</i>, I was almost sure of having one of the copies,
-even if some of the packing-cases got lost also.</p>
-
-<p>The photographer can always console himself with
-the reflection, in the midst of all his hardships and
-mishaps, that the pictures he does succeed in taking
-count for more than so many head of game.</p>
-
-<p>It is very interesting to note that my photographs of
-birds on the wing have put so many people, especially
-painters, in mind of the work of Japanese artists. Doflein,
-in his book <i>Ostasienfahrt</i>, speaks as follows of the peculiar
-faculty the Japanese have in this field of art. “The
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_680">680</span>
-Japanese animal painters,” he says, “show a more highly
-developed power of observing nature than that of their
-Western fellow-workers. They render the swift, sudden
-motion of animals with astonishing dexterity.... They
-had learned to see and reproduce them correctly before
-the coming of instantaneous photography.... The
-Japanese seem to have a very highly developed nervous
-organism. Their art is evidence of this, no less than
-their methods of warfare&mdash;their effective use of their
-guns at sea, for instance.”</p>
-
-<p>I would add to this my own opinion that an
-inferior shot would have no success whatever with a telephoto
-lens. You must have learnt to stalk your quarry
-warily&mdash;this is as important as a steady hand. A practised
-shot who knows how to get within range of the animals
-is peculiarly well fitted for the work. The least twitch
-at the moment of taking the photograph ruins everything,
-for even in the case of moving objects the exposure is
-not what can be accurately called instantaneous, owing
-to the peculiarity of the lens.</p>
-
-<p>I have already expressed my view that this non-instantaneous
-exposure (when not too prolonged) imparts
-a certain softness and vagueness to the photograph which
-give it an artistic effect. It gives scope also for the
-personal taste and preferences of the operator. When
-taken against the horizon photographs require less exposure
-than with the velt for background. The dark green of the
-trees and shrubs no less than the red laterite soil offering
-unfavourable backgrounds for photographs of animals in
-Africa, as elsewhere, one has to pay particular attention,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_681">681</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_682">682</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_683">683</span>
-of course, to the effects of shadows, shadows which to
-the eye seem quite natural producing extraordinary effects
-upon the negatives.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_394" src="images/i_394.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang"><small>PHOTOGRAPHS OF BIRDS TAKEN WITH THE TELEPHOTO-LENS AT DISTANCES VARYING FROM 20 TO 200 PACES. 1. SPURRED
-GOOSE</small> (<i><small>PLECTROPTERUS GAMBENSIS</small></i>, L.). <small>2. DARTER OR “SNAKE-NECK”</small> (<i><small>ANHINGA RUFA LACEP</small></i>, Daud.). <small>3. GREATER
-CORMORANT</small> (<i><small>PHALACROCORAN LUCIDUS LUGUBRIS</small></i>, R&uuml;pp.). <small>4. YELLOW-FLUTED FRANCOLIN</small> (<i><small>PTERNISTES LEUCOSEPUS
-INFUSCATUS</small></i>, Cab.). <small>5. A BIRD OF PREY</small> (<i><small>MELIERAN POLIOPTERUS</small></i>, Cab.)(?) <small>6. BEE-EATER</small> (<i><small>MELITTOPHAGUS MERIDIONALIS</small></i>,
-Sharpe). <small>7. SHRIKE</small> (<i><small>LANIUS CAUDATUS</small></i>, Cab.). <small>8. PELICAN</small> (<i><small>PELICANUS RUFESCENS</small></i>, Gm.).</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_396" src="images/i_396.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang"><small>TELEPHOTOGRAPHS OF BIRDS ON THE WING. FIRST ROW: THE STORK-VULTURE</small>
-(<i><small>SERPENTARIUS SERPENTARIUS</small></i> [<small>MILLER</small>]). <small>SECOND ROW: HAMMERHEAD</small> (<i><small>SCOPUS
-UMBRETTA</small></i>, Gm.), <small>SMALL BUSTARD</small> (<i><small>OTIS GINDIANA</small></i> [<small>OUST</small>]) <small>SADDLE STORK</small>
-(<i><small>EPHIPPIORHYNCHUS SENEGALENSIS</small></i> [<small>SHAW</small>]). <small>THIRD ROW: BATELEUR EAGLE</small>
-(<i><small>HELOTARSUS ECAUDATUS</small></i> [<small>DAUD.</small>]), <small>VULTURE</small> (<i><small>PSEUDOGYPS AFRICANUS SCHILLINGSI</small></i>,
-Erl.), <small>MARABOU</small> (<i><small>LEPTOPTILOS CRUMENIFER</small></i>, [<small>CUV.</small>], Less.).</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_397" src="images/i_397.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption"><small>TELEPHOTOGRAPH OF A DWARF GAZELLE</small> (<i><small>GAZELLA THOMSONI</small></i>, Gther.) <small>IN FULL
-FLIGHT, TAKEN AT A DISTANCE OF 60 PACES. WHEN ANIMALS IN RAPID
-MOTION ARE THUS PHOTOGRAPHED, THE BACKGROUND ALMOST INEVITABLY
-COMES OUT BLURRED.</small></p></div>
-
-<p>Some of the photographer’s difficulties are avoided
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_684">684</span>
-when he uses a heavy lens with a long focus. These
-can be easily used in a strong light. On the
-other hand they have many drawbacks&mdash;they are too
-apt, especially, to give a blurred effect to the background
-in the case of objects photographed near at hand.
-This entails the loss of one of the essential elements
-of such pictures, namely the representation of the animal
-in its natural surroundings. However, I would like to
-call the attention of all travellers to the fact that such
-apparatus are available. Their weight and size entail
-the putting forth of great strength and energy, both in
-the carrying of them and the handling of them, but to
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_685">685</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_686">686</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_687">687</span>
-my mind no trouble and no exertion could be excessive
-in the work of securing records of what is left us of
-animal life, in the spirit in which Professor Fritsch
-achieved his task in South Africa.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_398" src="images/i_398.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">JACKAL TAKING TO FLIGHT, STARTLED BY THE FLASHLIGHT.</p></div>
-
-<p>The impossibility of securing sharp, clearly defined
-impressions of the animals with the telephoto lens at a
-hundred paces or more, and the few chances I had of
-photographing them close at hand by daylight, were
-responsible partly for my determination to go in for flashlight
-pictures by night. At first my idea was discouraged
-and opposed by expert advisers, but the Goerz-Schillings
-apparatus was evolved out of my experiments and makes
-it possible now to secure excellent representations of wild
-life.</p>
-
-<p>As I have said already, I did not succeed with my
-flashlight photographs on my second expedition. And
-my third expedition, on which I managed to take a few,
-was brought to a sudden end by severe illness. At that
-time I had not found a way to combine the working of
-the flashlight with that of the shutter, essential to the
-photographing of objects in rapid motion. My cameras
-stood ready for use in the dark with the lens uncovered
-and the plates exposed, the shutter being closed automatically
-when the flashlight contrivance worked. To my
-surprise and disappointment this arrangement proved too
-slow; the exposure was too long in the case of animals
-moving quickly. Jackals emerged from my negatives with
-six heads, hyenas with long snake-like bodies. Unfortunately
-I destroyed all these monstrosities, and cannot
-therefore reproduce any of them here. Now and again,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_688">688</span>
-however, I was fortunate enough to get a picture worth
-having&mdash;for instance, that of a hyena making off with
-the head of a zebra, and that of three jackals, included
-in the illustrations to <i>With Flashlight and Rifle</i>. The
-first photograph I succeeded with in 1902 was that of a
-mongoose coming up to the bait placed for him. On
-page 657 the reader may see this marten-like animal taking
-to flight among the thorn-bushes. I secured a number
-of other pictures, notably of hyenas, both spotted and
-striped, and of jackals, in all kinds of strange positions,
-moving hither and thither in search of prey.</p>
-
-<p>What a state of excitement and suspense I used to
-be in at first when the flashlight flamed out&mdash;until I got
-to realise that owing to the rapid movements of the animals
-most of the photographs were sure to be failures.</p>
-
-<p>My illness and return from this expedition proved
-really an advantage in the long run, inasmuch as they
-enabled me to get the apparatus brought to such perfection
-as to render possible the photographing of even the most
-rapid movements. This was brought about in the Goerz
-Institute, Herr M. Kiesling contriving to secure the
-simultaneous operation of the flashlight and the shutter.</p>
-
-<p>Equipped with this new apparatus, I set out on my
-fourth expedition, betaking myself for two reasons to
-districts with which I was already familiar. In the first
-place, success was much more likely in a country the
-speech of whose inhabitants and all their habits and
-customs were known to me; but my chief reason was
-that I wished to achieve a pictorial record of the wild
-life of the German region of Africa. As a matter of
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_689">689</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_690">690</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_691">691</span>
-fact, with this kind of object in view, a man might spend
-a lifetime in any such region, and find that, however
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_692">692</span>
-narrow its boundaries, it could always offer him fresh
-subjects for study and observation.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_402" src="images/i_402.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">LIONESS FRIGHTENED AWAY FROM CARCASE BY THE FLASH-LIGHT.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_404" src="images/i_404.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">AIMING AT A PIGEON AND HITTING A CROW! I FOUND THIS SPOTTED HYENA ON THE PLATE INSTEAD OF
-THE LION FOR WHICH IT WAS INTENDED.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_406a" src="images/i_406a.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">PHOTOGRAPH OF A JACKAL, TAKEN WITH A SMALL HAND-CAMERA.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_406b" src="images/i_406b.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">PHOTOGRAPH OF A JACKAL TAKEN WITH MY FIRST, PRIMITIVE NIGHT-APPARATUS, NOT TOO SUCCESSFULLY!</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_408" src="images/i_408.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">IN ORDER TO ENSURE SUCCESS WITH MY FLASHLIGHT-PHOTOS, I USED TO MAKE
-CONTINUAL EXPERIMENTS BEFOREHAND. I USED TO MAKE SOME OF MY
-MEN ACT AS MOVING MODELS, AND GET THEM TO WAVE CLOTHS IN THEIR
-HANDS.</p></div>
-
-<p>On arrival the photographic outfit proved so cumbersome,
-both as regards transport and management, that
-both Prince L&ouml;wenstein, who accompanied me, and who
-was not easily to be daunted by obstacles, and also Orgeich
-gave expression to pessimistic views as to the possibility
-of fulfilling my purpose.</p>
-
-<p>No one, indeed, had been able to boast of success
-until then with this new apparatus! I had yet to satisfy
-myself that it was really efficacious&mdash;that, for instance,
-it would enable me to photograph a lion falling upon its
-prey. Many were the fruitless experiments witnessed by
-the Pangani forest. We experimented night after night,
-now at one spot, now at another&mdash;my men learning to
-enact the r&ocirc;le of lions and other animals for the purpose.
-The Oriental and the negro are alike in their bearing
-on such occasions, but these flashlight operations did
-really succeed in arousing the wonder of my followers.
-The laughter of my chief man still rings in my ears.
-“But the lions are far away, master!” he would declare,
-utterly unable to understand my proceedings. It took me
-long, and I had had a large number of failures, before I
-succeeded in overcoming his attitude of incredulity.</p>
-
-<p>As I have already intimated, the efficacy of the
-telephoto lens in the tropics depends to an extraordinary
-degree on the conditions of the atmosphere. The efficacy
-of the flashlight apparatus depends upon the precise
-absolutely simultaneous working of the flashlight and the
-shutter. It took me weeks and months (and I very
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_693">693</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_694">694</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_695">695</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_696">696</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_697">697</span>
-nearly gave the thing up as hopeless) before I managed
-to get good results in the wilderness, though theoretically,
-and to a certain extent in practice at home, the apparatus
-had been perfected. The heavy dew of the tropical
-night, or a sudden shower of rain, may easily “do for” the
-flashlight unless the apparatus has been thoroughly safeguarded.
-And there are any number of other mishaps
-to be provided against. On one occasion hyenas carried
-off the linen sandbags that form part of the apparatus;
-mongooses made away with the aluminium lid of the
-lens-cap and hid it in their stronghold, an ant-hill; ants
-gnawed the apparatus itself. And when the photograph
-has at last been taken, a lot of other harmful contingencies
-have to be kept in mind. The fact that several shillings’
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_698">698</span>
-worth of powder is consumed in each explosion of the
-flashlight is in itself a serious consideration. Of course,
-there is always the additional danger of the cameras being
-stolen or destroyed by natives&mdash;a misfortune I experienced
-more than once.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_411" src="images/i_411.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang">FLASHLIGHT FAILURES II. BLACK-HOOFED ANTELOPES COMING DOWN TO THE WATER-SIDE TO DRINK. THE BLEMISHES
-WERE CAUSED BY BITS OF THE MATERIAL WITH WHICH THE FLASHLIGHT POWDER WAS COVERED TO PROTECT IT
-FROM DAMP BEING BLOWN INTO THE AIR AND BURNING AS THEY FLEW IN FRONT OF THE LENS.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_412" src="images/i_412.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">HOW MY FLASHLIGHT PICTURES WERE APT TO BE SPOILT. I. THE ZEBRA IS BEHIND THE STICK TO WHICH THE
-COMMUNICATING STRING IS ATTACHED.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_414" src="images/i_414.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">FLASHLIGHT FAILURES III. TWO TURTLE-DOVES (ONE ON THE WING) SET
-MY NIGHT-APPARATUS WORKING. MISHAPS OF THIS KIND OFTEN OCCUR.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_415" src="images/i_415.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">FLASHLIGHT FAILURES IV. A BLACK-HOOFED ANTELOPE DOE SWERVES
-SUDDENLY ROUND DURING THE FLASH.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>I would give the intending photographer a special
-warning against careless handling of the explosive mixture.
-The various ingredients are separately packed, of course,
-and are thus quite safe until the time has come to mix
-them together (I know nothing of the ready-made mixtures
-which are declared to be portable without danger). This
-business of mixing them with a mortar is dangerous
-undoubtedly, for the introduction of a grain of sand is
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_699">699</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_700">700</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_701">701</span>
-enough to cause an explosion. I myself, as well as others,
-have had some very narrow escapes whilst thus occupied,
-and, as every photographer knows, the work has had
-fatal results in several instances of recent years.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_416a" src="images/i_416a.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-    <td><img id="i_416b" src="images/i_416b.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_416c" src="images/i_416c.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-    <td><img id="i_416d" src="images/i_416d.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr></table>
-
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang"><small>PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIES OF ANTELOPES SHOT BY THE AUTHOR AND NOW TO BE SEEN
-PRESERVED IN GERMAN MUSEUMS. 1, 2. WATERBUCK</small> (<i><small>COBUS. AFR. ELLIPSIPRYMNUS</small></i>,
-Ogilb.), <small>MALE AND FEMALE. 3. ELAND</small> (<i><small>OREAS LIVINGSTONI</small></i>, Sclat.), <small>FEMALE.
-4. MASAI HARTEBEEST</small> (<i><small>BUBALIS COKEI</small></i>, Gthr.), <small>YOUNG BUCK</small>.</p></div>
-
-<p>My apparatus revealed several shortcomings even in the
-improved form. It was not absolutely light-proof, and
-it had to be set up always, for its automatic operation, in
-the brief tropical dusk. If no animal presented itself for
-portraiture the plates exposed were always wasted, unless
-at dawn they were withdrawn again. (This is not the
-case with the apparatus as since perfected.)</p>
-
-<p>Many wrong impressions are current in regard to
-this kind of photography. It can be managed in two
-ways. Either the photographer himself remains on the
-spot to attend in person both to the flashlight and the
-exposure, or else the mechanism is worked by a string
-against which the animal moves. Before I took my
-photographs I had been a spectator of all the various
-incidents represented in them, watching them all from
-hiding-places in dense thorn-bushes, thus coming, as it
-were, into personal touch with lions and other animals.
-Though not so dangerous really as camping out on
-the velt, where one’s fatigue and the darkness leave one
-defenceless against the possible attacks of elephants or
-rhinoceroses, you need good nerves to spend the night in
-your thorn-thicket hiding-place with a view to flashlight
-snapshots of lions at close quarters. In that interesting
-work <i>Zu den Aulihans</i>, by Count Hoyos, and in Count
-Wickenburg’s <i>Wanderungen in Ostafrika</i>, the reader will
-find interesting and authentic accounts of night-shoots
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_702">702</span>
-which correspond with my own experiences. Count
-Coudenhove in his first book describes very vividly the
-effect upon the nerves of the apparition of numbers of
-lions within a few paces of him, when concealed in a
-thorn-bush at night.</p>
-
-<p>There is a wonderful fascination at all times in lying
-in wait by night for animals, and watching their goings
-and comings and all their habits. Even here at home,
-in our game preserves, the experience of passing hour
-after hour on the look-out has a charm about it difficult
-to describe in words. Out in the wilderness it is increased
-immeasurably. It is an intense pleasure to me to read
-other people’s impressions of such experiences, when I
-feel the accounts are trustworthy. They are so different
-in some respects, so much alike in others. In my first
-book I cited Count Coudenhove, mentioned above, in
-this connection, as a man of proved courage, who writes
-at once sympathetically and convincingly. Here let
-me give a passage from the book of another sportsman.
-Count Hans Palffy. In his <i>Wild und Hund</i> he speaks
-as follows: “I had been waiting for two hours or so in
-the darkness without being able to descry the carcase
-of the rhinoceros” [which he himself had shot and which
-he was using as a bait for the lion], “when suddenly I
-heard a sound like that of a heavy body falling on the
-ground, and then almost immediately the lion began
-growling beside the dead animal. I could hear the King
-of Beasts quite distinctly, as he began to pull and bite
-at the flesh.... He would move away from it every
-ten or twenty minutes, always in the same direction, to
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_703">703</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_704">704</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_705">705</span>
-give out a series of roars. The effect of this was magnificent
-beyond description. Beginning always with a soft
-murmur, he gradually raised his mighty voice into a
-peal of thunder&mdash;I never in my life heard anything so
-beautiful.”</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_420" src="images/i_420.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="caption">JACKALS. ONLY ONE IS VISIBLE, BUT THE GLEAMING EYES OF TWO OTHERS (NOS. 2 AND 3) GIVE A PECULIAR
-INTEREST TO THIS PHOTOGRAPH.</p></div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <td colspan="2"><img id="i_422a" src="images/i_422a.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_422b" src="images/i_422b.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-    <td><img id="i_422c" src="images/i_422c.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td colspan="2"><img id="i_422d" src="images/i_422d.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr></table>
-
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang"><small>PHOTOGRAPHS OF EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES SHOT BY THE AUTHOR AND NOW
-PRESERVED IN VARIOUS MUSEUMS. 1. SMALL KUDU</small> (<i><small>STREPSICEROS IMBERBIS</small></i>,
-Blyth), <small>BUCK. 2. DWARF GAZELLE</small> (<i><small>GAZELLA THOMSONI</small></i>, Gthr.), <small>BUCK.
-3. WHITE-BEARDED GNU</small> (<i><span class="smcap">CONNOCH&AElig;TES ALBOJUBATUS</span></i>, Thos.), <small>BULL. 4. BUSH-BUCK</small>
-(<i><small>TRAGELAPHUS MASAICUS</small></i>, Neum), <small>BUCK</small>. (<small>THE FEMALE OF THE FIRST-NAMED
-AND LAST-NAMED SPECIES HAVE NO HORNS.</small>)</p></div>
-
-<p>Both on account of the hardships and fatigue involved&mdash;which
-are calculated in the long run to ruin his constitution&mdash;and
-also because he really cannot manipulate his
-cameras successfully except on starry or moonlight nights,
-it is most desirable for the photographer to provide
-himself with an apparatus working automatically. You
-cannot count upon its working as you would wish. The
-string which sets it in action may be caught and pulled
-by a bat or even a cockchafer instead of a lion you
-want to photograph. The photograph reproduced on
-p. 697, for instance, was the work of the turtledoves
-therein visible. The motion of their wings, it may be
-noted, was too quick for a clearly defined record.</p>
-
-<p>This picture, taken in the early morning, is a good
-instance of the way in which I have always enforced my
-rule as to never touching up my photographs. The plate
-was broken on its way home, but the cracks which resulted
-were left as they were.<a id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">21</a> I remember one case in which
-I had put up my apparatus with a view to securing
-photographs of certain lions, and in which I had to be
-content with a picture of a spotted hyena splashing its
-way in full flight through the swamp. The hideous
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_706">706</span>
-cowering gait of the animal came out very strikingly on
-the negative.</p>
-
-<p>There is wide scope for a man’s dexterity and resourcefulness
-in the setting up of a flashlight apparatus. All
-the qualities that go to the making of a big-game hunter
-are essential to success in this field also. You have
-to keep a sharp look-out for the tracks of the different
-animals and to watch for their appearance, taking up
-your position in some thorn-bush hiding-place or up a
-tree if you propose to operate the camera yourself by
-means of a string. In the case of most animals you have,
-of course, to pay special attention to the direction of the
-wind. This is not necessary, however, in the case of
-lions. Lions take no notice whatever of the man in
-hiding. Elephants, on the contrary, are very easily excited,
-and when this is so they are apt to force their way into
-his thorn retreat and trample on him or to drag him
-down from his point of vantage.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p>Future workers in this field will find that my labours
-have served to some extent to clear the ground for them,
-and we may look forward to many interesting achievements.
-There can be no doubt that the explorer who
-provides himself with the necessary photographic equipment
-will find ample scope for his activities.</p>
-
-<p>My own process was simple enough. I stretched lines
-of string round the heifer or goat which was to serve
-as a bait, and the lions, hyenas, etc., falling on their prey
-pulled these strings, which worked the flashlight&mdash;the
-animals thus taking their own photographs. Some of these
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_707">707</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_708">708</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_709">709</span>
-pictures record new facts in natural history. In my first
-book, for instance, there is a picture of a lioness making
-off with her tail raised high in the air in a way no artist
-would have thought of depicting, and no naturalist have
-believed to be characteristic.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_426a" src="images/i_426a.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-    <td><img id="i_426b" src="images/i_426b.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_426c" src="images/i_426c.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-    <td><img id="i_426d" src="images/i_426d.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr></table>
-
-<p class="x-small"><i>C. G. Schillings, phot.</i></p>
-
-<p class="hang"><small>MORE ANTELOPES.</small> 1. <small>BLACK-HOOFED ANTELOPE</small> (<i><span class="smcap">&AElig;PYCEROS SUARA</span></i>, Mtsch.), <small>BUCK</small>.
-2. <small>MOUNTAIN REEDBUCK</small> (<i><small>CERVICAPRA CHANLERI</small></i>, Rothsch.). 3. <small>GRANT’S GAZELLE</small>
-(<i><small>GAZELLA GRANTI</small></i>, Brooke), <small>DOE</small>. 4. <small>ORYX ANTELOPE</small> (<i><small>ORYX CALLOTIS</small></i>, Thos.),
-<small>BUCK</small>.</p></div>
-
-<p>In the course of my labours I had to overcome every
-description of obstacle, and had constantly to be making
-new experiments. By the time I had got things right
-I had so small a stock of materials left at my disposal
-that I ought to congratulate myself upon my subsequent
-success. The number of good pictures I secured was far
-less than I had originally hoped for, but on the other
-hand it far surpassed what, in those moods of pessimism
-which followed upon my many failures, I had begun to
-think I should have to be contented with.</p>
-
-<p>Among my successful efforts I count those which record
-the fashion in which the lion falls upon his prey, first
-prowling round it; and those which represent rhinoceroses
-and hippopotami, leopards and hyenas and jackals,
-antelopes and zebras making their way down to the waterside
-to drink; those also which show the way in which
-hyenas and jackals carry off their spoils, and the relations
-that exist between them. But a point of peculiar interest
-that my photographs bring out is the way in which the
-eyes of beasts of prey shine out in the darkness of night.
-I have never been able to get any precise scientific
-explanation of this phenomenon. I have often seen it for
-myself in the wilderness. Professor Yngve Sj&ouml;stedt,
-a Swedish naturalist, who has travelled in the Kilimanjaro
-region, tells us that he once saw, quite near his camp,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_710">710</span>
-the eyes of at least ten lions shining out from the darkness
-exactly like lights. I find the following passage, too, in an
-old book, printed at Nuremberg in 1719: “Travellers tell
-us (and I myself have seen it) that you can follow the
-movements of lions in the dark owing to the way in which
-their glowing eyes shine out like twin lights.”</p>
-
-<p>Even with a small hand-camera it is possible to
-secure pictures worth having, such as the studies of
-heads reproduced on the accompanying pages. These
-must always have a certain value, as they depict for the
-most part species of animals which have never yet been
-secured for zoological gardens.</p>
-
-<p>I repeat that there is an immense harvest awaiting the
-man who is prepared to work thoroughly in this field.
-Why, for instance, should he not succeed in getting a
-picture by night of an entire troop of lions? My photographs
-show how a mating lion and lioness fall on their
-victim&mdash;from different sides; and how three lionesses may
-be seen quenching their thirst at midnight, all together.
-With good luck some one may manage to photograph a
-troop of a dozen or twenty lions hunting their prey&mdash;that
-would be a fine achievement. Or he might secure a
-wonderful group of bull-elephants on their way down to
-a drinking-place. The possibilities are immense.</p>
-
-<p>Who has ever seen a herd of giraffes bending down in
-their grotesque impossible attitudes to quench their thirst?
-A photographic record of such a sight would be invaluable
-now that the species is doomed to extinction. But, apart
-from such big achievements as these, trustworthy photographs
-of wild life in all its forms&mdash;even of the smallest
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_711">711</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_712">712</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_713">713</span>
-beasts and birds&mdash;are of the utmost value, especially in
-the case of rare species that are dying out.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<table>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_430a" src="images/i_430a.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-    <td><img id="i_430b" src="images/i_430b.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr>
-  <tr>
-    <td><img id="i_430c" src="images/i_430c.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-    <td><img id="i_430d" src="images/i_430d.jpg" alt="" /></td>
-  </tr></table>
-
-<p class="caption"><small>PHOTOGRAPHS OF</small> (1) <small>A SPOTTED HYENA</small> (<i><small>CROCOTTA GERMINANS</small></i>, Mtsch.); (2) <small>AND</small> (4)
-<small>STRIPED HYENAS</small> (<i><span class="smcap">HY&AElig;NA SCHILLINGSI</span></i>, Mtsch.), <small>AND</small> (3) <small>A JACKAL</small>.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>This is true not merely of Africa, but of other parts of
-the world as well. Who is attempting to secure photographic
-records of the great elk and mighty bears of
-Alaska? or of the wild life of the Arctic zone&mdash;the polar
-bear, the walrus, and the seal?</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_432" src="images/i_432.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">SNAPSHOT OF A JACKAL IN FULL FLIGHT.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The Arctic regions should be made to tell their last
-secrets to the camera for the benefit of posterity, nor
-should the wild sheep and ibex of the unexplored
-mountains of Central Asia be overlooked.</p>
-
-<p>These things are not to be easily achieved, and they
-involve a considerable outlay of money. It would be,
-however, money well spent. Money is being lavished
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_714">714</span>
-upon many other enterprises which could very well wait,
-and which might be carried out just as successfully some
-time in the future. These are possibilities, on the other
-hand, that are diminishing every year, and that presently
-will cease to exist. I trust sincerely that it may be my
-lot to continue working in this field.</p>
-
-<p>“If only the matter could be brought home to the
-minds of the right people,” wrote one of our best naturalists,
-after examining my work, “tens of thousands of
-pounds would be devoted to this end.”
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_715">715</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-<h2 id="Envoi">
-<span class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_434" src="images/i_434.jpg" alt="" />
-<span class="caption">GUINEA-FOWL.</span></span>
-
-Envoi</h2>
-
-<p class="drop"><span class="uppercase">I&nbsp;may</span> be permitted a few words in conclusion to
-reaffirm certain views to which I cling. I would
-not have my readers attach any special importance to what
-I myself have achieved, but I would like them to take to
-heart the moral of my book.</p>
-
-<p>It may be summed up in a very few words. I maintain
-that wild life everywhere, and in all its forms, should be
-religiously protected&mdash;that the forces of nature should not
-be warred against more than our struggle for existence
-renders absolutely inevitable; and that it is the sportsman’s
-duty, above all, to have a care for the well-being of the
-whole of the animal world.</p>
-
-<p>Whoever glances over the terrible list of so-called
-“harmful” birds and beasts done to death every year in
-Germany must bemoan this ruthless destruction of a
-charming feature of our countryside, carried out by sportsmen
-in the avowed interest of certain species designated
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_716">716</span>
-as “useful.” The realm of nature should not be regarded
-exclusively from the point of view of sport; the sportsman
-should stand rather in the position of a guardian or trustee,
-responsible to all nature-lovers for the condition of the
-fauna and flora left to his charge.</p>
-
-<p>I would have the German hunter establish the same
-kind of reservations, the same kind of “sanctuaries” for
-wild life that exist in America. In our German colonies,
-especially in Africa, we should model those reservations
-on English examples. Such institutions, in which both
-flora and fauna should be really well looked after, would
-be a source at once of instruction and enjoyment of the
-highest kind to all lovers of natural history.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<img id="i_435" src="images/i_435.jpg" alt="" />
-<p class="caption">FAREWELL TO AFRICA!</p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="copy"><i>Printed by Hazell, Watson &amp; Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury.</i>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_717">717</span></p>
-
-<h2><span class="large">CHEAP EDITION</span><br />
-
-<span class="medium">“The most remarkable travel book that has ever been published.”&mdash;<i>Graphic.</i></span><br />
-
-<span class="xx-large">With Flashlight
-and Rifle</span><br />
-
-<span class="large">A Record of Hunting Adventures and Studies in Wild Life</span><br />
-
-<span class="x-large">By C. G. SCHILLINGS</span><br />
-<span class="large">Translated by FREDERIC WHYTE</span><br />
-<br />
-<span class="medium">With an Introduction by Sir Harry Johnston, G.C.M.G., K.C.B.,
-Illustrated with 302 of the Author’s “untouched” photographs
-taken by day and night.</span><br />
-<br />
-<span class="table small"><i>Printed throughout on English art paper, in one handsome<br />
-vol., <b>824</b> pages super-royal 8vo, <b>12s. 6d.</b> net</i></span><br />
-</h2>
-
-<h4>PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT wrote of Mr. Schillings’s book:</h4>
-
-<p>“His extraordinary photographic work among the teeming wild
-creatures of East Africa.... He is a great field naturalist, a trained
-scientific observer, as well as a mighty hunter; and no mere hunter can
-ever do work even remotely approaching in value that which he has done.
-His book should be translated into English at once.”</p>
-
-<h3>Some Exceptional Reviews</h3>
-
-<p>“An entrancing work. His photographs are positively wonderful; his
-letterpress is vivid.”&mdash;<i>Standard.</i></p>
-
-<p>“A book of singular value.”&mdash;<i>Yorkshire Post.</i></p>
-
-<p>“This remarkable book.”&mdash;<i>Sporting and Dramatic News.</i></p>
-
-<p>“A unique and most remarkable book.”&mdash;<i>Scotsman.</i></p>
-
-<p>“Space forbids any mention of the author’s hunting adventures or of
-his many thrilling escapes from death, but all through the two volumes
-the human interest is as strong as the scientific.”&mdash;<i>Graphic.</i></p>
-
-<p>“A remarkable book. Nobody else has ever obtained so wonderful
-a series of photographs.”&mdash;<i>Truth.</i></p>
-
-<p>“An entirely remarkable book, containing the greatest triumph in
-photography of wild animals ever achieved.”&mdash;<i>Outlook.</i></p>
-
-<p class="copy"><span class="smcap">London</span>: HUTCHINSON &amp; CO., <span class="smcap">Paternoster Row</span>
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_718">718</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<h2 id="Nearest_the_Pole">
-<span class="xx-large">Nearest the Pole</span><br />
-
-<span class="x-large">By Commander R. E. PEARY</span><br />
-
-<span class="medium">(U. S. Navy; President of the National Geographic Society)</span><br />
-
-<span class="small"><i>Author of “Northward over the Great Ice,” etc.</i></span><br />
-
-<span class="medium table">With an introduction by President Roosevelt and numerous
-illustrations selected from a collection of 1,200 of the
-Author’s photographs</span><br />
-
-<span class="small"><i>In Crown 4to, cloth gilt and gilt top</i>, <b>21s.</b> <i>net</i>.</span></h2>
-
-<p>In this book Commander Peary relates the thrilling story of his
-endeavours to reach the North Pole. Although he did not succeed in
-his attempt, he managed to get nearer to the Pole than any of his
-predecessors. Sailing in the <i>Roosevelt</i> from Etah, North Greenland,
-on August 16th, 1905, the expedition soon encountered ice which made
-their progress both dangerous and difficult. After being icebound for
-some weeks, the vessel was extricated, but not floated again until the
-following summer. The sun disappearing from sight in October, was
-not seen again until March. The expedition re-started in February on a
-sledge trip in the direction of the Pole, and after dividing the party, Peary
-and his followers journeyed towards their goal encountering on their way,
-among other mishaps, a gale which lasted six days, during which time
-they found themselves some seventy miles out of their course. They then
-endeavoured to get intelligence of the other portion of their party, but had
-to abandon their attempt as their scouts could not locate their whereabouts.
-At length, by forced marches, Commander Peary, on April 21st,
-reached 87&deg; 6&acute; N.</p>
-
-<p>On this expedition Commander Peary did for the American segment
-of the Polar Basin what Nansen did for the Asiatic. The narrative is
-exceedingly dramatic. The explorer tells how he built the <i>Roosevelt</i>
-on an entirely different plan from any other Arctic ship, and not only
-adopted Eskimo clothing and made camps like Eskimos in ice and snow,
-but took Eskimos with him as guides. It is the seventh time that Peary
-has been North&mdash;oftener than any other explorer: and the Hubbard Gold
-Medal that President Roosevelt presented him on behalf of the National
-Geographic Society is the fifth he has received for his distinguished
-achievements in exploration. There will be an introduction to the book
-by President Roosevelt, and the beautiful pictures with which the
-book will be illustrated are selected from a collection of 1,200 of the
-author’s photographs.</p>
-
-<p class="copy"><span class="smcap">London</span>: HUTCHINSON &amp; CO., <span class="smcap">Paternoster Row</span></p>
-
-<div class="footnotes">
-
-<h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">1</a>
- Male Emperor-moths (<i>Saturnia pyri</i>) hasten from great distances,
-even against the wind, to a female of the species emerging from the
-chrysalis state in captivity. Elephants, the author believes, can scent a
-fall of rain at a distance of many miles.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">2</a>
- The author would like to bring this fact home to all destroyers of
-herons, kingfishers, and diving-birds.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">3</a>
- The Masai distinguish the kinds of grass which their cattle eat and
-reject. Many kinds of grass with pungent grains, such as <i>Andropogon
-contortus</i>, L., are rejected entirely. Yet the tough bow-string hemp is to
-the taste of many wild animals&mdash;the small kudu, for instance.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">4</a>
- Latterly many sportsmen in the tropics have taken again to the use
-of very large-calibre rifles. Charges of as much as 21 gr. of black powder
-and a 26&frac34; mm. bullet are employed with them. It is to the kick of such
-a ride that the author owes the scar which is visible in the portrait serving
-as frontispiece to this book&mdash;an “untouched” photograph, like all the
-others.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">5</a>
- See <i>With Flashlight and Rifle</i>.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">6</a>
- In winter, Siberia affords a refuge to beautiful long-haired tigers, such
-as can be seen in the Berlin Zoological Gardens.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">7</a>
- For this information I am indebted to the kindness of the experienced
-Russian hunter Ceslav von Wancowitz.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">8</a>
- Herr Niedieck also underwent a similar experience. See his book
-<i>Mit der B&uuml;chse in f&uuml;nf Weltteilen</i>, and my own <i>With Flashlight and Rifle</i>.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">9</a>
- Little elephants only a yard high used to inhabit Malta, and there
-still lives, according to Hagenbeck, the experienced zoologist of
-Hamburg, a dwarf species of elephant in yet unexplored districts of
-West Africa.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">10</a>
- Experienced German hunters make a special plea for the use of rifles
-of heavier calibre. Many English hunters are of the same opinion.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">11</a>
- The <i>raison d’&ecirc;tre</i> of these powerful weapons of the African elephant
-is a difficult question. Why did the extinct mammoth carry such very
-different tusks, curving upwards? Why has the Indian elephant such
-small tusks, and the Ceylon elephant hardly any at all, whilst the African’s
-are so huge and heavy?</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">12</a>
- On that occasion I had not at hand a telephoto-lens of sufficient range.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">13</a>
- The well-known naturalist, Hagenbeck, remembers the immense
-numbers of giraffes which were bagged in the Sudan some thirty years ago.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">14</a>
- Later observers questioned this fact. When I have used the word
-“mimicry,” I have done so not in the original sense of Bates and Wallace,
-but as denoting the conformity of the appearance of animals with their
-environment.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">15</a>
- Some years earlier one of our best zoologists, after a long stay in the
-Masai uplands, had described the giraffes as “rare and almost extinct”:
-a striking proof of the great difficulty there is in coming upon these
-animals.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">16</a>
- The author has often heard it asserted that the giraffe does much
-harm to the African vegetation and therefore should be exterminated.
-Such assertions should be speedily and publicly denied. They are on
-a level with the demand for the complete extermination of African game
-with a view to getting rid of the tsetse-fly.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">17</a>
- <i>Giraffa reticulata</i> de Winton and <i>Giraffa schillingsi</i>, Mtsch.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">18</a>
- Cf. <i>With Flashlight and Rifle</i>.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19" class="label">19</a>
- Recent reports from West Africa confirm what I say about the
-disastrous results of allowing the natives to hunt with firearms. The same
-regrettable state of things prevails in every part of the world in which this
-is permitted.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20" class="label">20</a>
- I do not know of any “telephoto” picture of animals in rapid motion
-having been published anywhere previously to my own. Those I refer to
-here are of animals at rest or moving quite slowly.</p></div>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21" class="label">21</a>
- Flashlight photographs may be taken by daylight, as is proved
-by this photograph and some of those of rhinoceroses in <i>With Flashlight
-and Rifle</i>.</p></div>
-
-</div>
-
-<div class="transnote">
-<h3>Transcriber’s Note:</h3>
-
-<p>Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original.</p>
-</div>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
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