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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #54007 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/54007)
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Black Hills and Badlands of
-South Dakota, by Purl Dewey Peterson
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Through the Black Hills and Badlands of South Dakota
-
-Author: Purl Dewey Peterson
-
-Release Date: January 18, 2017 [EBook #54007]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, MFR and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-                              Through the
-                              Black Hills
-                                  and
-                               Bad Lands
-                            of South Dakota
-
-
-                                   By
-                             P. D. Peterson
-
-                        J. Fred Olander Company
-                             Pierre, S. D.
-
-                            Copyright, 1929
-                             P. D. Peterson
-
-  To my mother who has been an inspiration and a guide for me throughout
-  my early training, ever helping her family to see and acquire the
-  highest ideals possible; and to my wife who has assisted me in the
-  compilation and revision of this book, the following pages are
-  affectionately dedicated.
-
-                 [Illustration: THE SPIRIT OF THE WEST
-                         By Edwin H. Blashfield
- This painting is in the Governor’s reception room in the S. D. Capitol
-                          building at Pierre.]
-
-
-
-
-                                FOREWORD
-
-
-This book is not a history, although it contains some historical
-accounts where such are necessary to bring out the importance of the
-scenery described. It makes no attempt at being a technical guide of any
-sort, although the treatment of various animals, trees, flowers, and
-minerals is as near accurate as a tourist could hope to obtain.
-
-The main purpose of this book is to give a chronological or itinerary
-account of what may be seen in the Black Hills. It should acquaint the
-tourist with the things of interest to see on his trip. It should save
-him the chagrin of passing a point of interest without having known he
-did so. It should, further, give him a souvenir of the scenes and
-experiences of the trip. But one of the central purposes of this
-treatise is to give the school children and the grown-ups of South
-Dakota a picture of their own Black Hills and Bad Lands.
-
-                            [Illustration: ]
-
-
-
-
-                           TABLE OF CONTENTS
-
-
-  Chapter                                                           Page
-  I Introduction                                                       9
-  II State Capitol                                                    13
-  III The Badlands                                                    21
-  IV Rapid City                                                       35
-  V Cement Plant                                                      40
-  VI Crystal Cave                                                     43
-  VII Sturgis                                                         48
-  VIII Belle Fourche                                                  52
-  IX Spearfish                                                        60
-  X Pine Crest Camp                                                   69
-  XI Lead                                                             71
-  XII Deadwood                                                        83
-  XIII Pactola, Silver City, and Camp Wanzer                          90
-  XIV Hill City and Keystone                                          93
-  XV Needles Road, Sylvan Lake Harney Peak and the Gorge             101
-  XVI Custer                                                         125
-  XVII Hot Springs                                                   145
-  Appendix                                                          Page
-  I Mountains                                                        161
-  II Elevations                                                      163
-  III Industries                                                     165
-  IV Fishing                                                         167
-  V Streams                                                          169
-  VI Camps and Camping                                               171
-  VII New Developments                                               179
-  VIII Shorter Routes                                                183
-
- [Illustration: Harney Peak above the clouds. This is the highest point
-           in the United States east of the Rocky Mountains.
-                                                         Photo by Beard]
-
-
-
-
-                               CHAPTER I
-                              Introduction
-
-
-“The Wonderland of America” is not an overstatement of the scenic beauty
-of the Black Hills of South Dakota. One cannot but marvel at the endless
-new experiences that he has each day, whether it be on a three days’ or
-a three weeks’ trip through the Black Hills. In the shorter trip he will
-take in the more prominent points, scarcely departing from the main
-arterial highways. On the longer tour he will drive a thousand to
-fifteen hundred miles through deep canyons, up to the mines, and to many
-other places which at first would seem almost impenetrable but which
-upon inquiry will be found readily accessible. The more extensive trip
-should be the one selected if at all possible, for it leaves an
-impression on a person’s mind that cannot be erased by time or by any
-amount of traveling in any part of the world.
-
-              [Illustration: Birdseye view of Sylvan Lake
-                                                             Rise Photo]
-
-The vast, impressive grandeur of the whole, gained by the views from
-mountain tops, from the floors of canyons, and from various other
-vantage points cannot help but leave with one a feeling of awe, a
-feeling that the Creator of these great magnificent sturdy formations,
-towering toward the sky, penetrating the very clouds and fringed and
-capped by element defying monarchs of the evergreen family is a powerful
-Being. They leave with a person a feeling of safety under the protecting
-guidance of a Being powerful enough to create what lies before him.
-
-All through the “Hills” this feeling of the marvelous greatness of the
-structures, and the intricate workmanship found in them grows upon a
-person, until when he speeds eastward (or westward) at the close of the
-trip with an occasional backward look, he cannot help feeling that his
-mind has been broadened and expanded proportionate to the impressiveness
-of what he has seen.
-
-No attempt will be made in this volume at a systematic cataloging of the
-various things of interest to be seen. The account will be strictly
-chronological, in order, just as it was experienced on a trip through
-the “Hills.” Preceding the Black Hills accounts will come an account of
-a tour through the Great Badlands of South Dakota. A trip to the “Hills”
-is not complete without a visit to the Badlands, and the impressiveness
-of the latter is scarcely less than that of its neighbor. It is well to
-plan for this part of the trip before entering the “Hills.” Then, if it
-rains the Badlands must be postponed until the close, for the roads are
-somewhat bad when wet.
-
-                  [Illustration: A peak in Cedar Pass
-                                                          O’Neill Photo]
-
-  [Illustration: This Monument marks the center of the state of South
-Dakota and the approximate center of North America. It stands along the
-                        highway north of Pierre]
-
-                [Illustration: Rotunda, Capitol, Pierre]
-
-
-
-
-                               CHAPTER II
-                             State Capitol
-
-
-No matter whether the entrance to South Dakota is made from the north,
-south, east, or west, all of the main roads are gravel surfaced. Many an
-Eastener will complain of the driving on these roads, but one may drive
-up to fifty or sixty miles per hour on them with comparative safety,
-with the average car. This is far beyond the legal limit of the state.
-Rain and other adverse weather conditions will not affect traveling.
-This holds true for most of the main highways in the “Hills.”
-
- [Illustration: Corridor and Grand Stairway, Capitol Building, Pierre,
-                                 S. D.]
-
-Over these gravelled highways, probably U. S. 14 or U. S. 16 we speed
-until we hit Pierre, the State capitol, located in the center of South
-Dakota. Here it might be well to stop for a few hours or overnight. The
-State welcomes everyone to a trip through the State Capitol. This trip
-is interesting and in many ways highly enlightening.
-
-[Illustration: Governor’s Reception Room, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.]
-
-    [Illustration: Supreme Court Room, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.]
-
-The Capitol, “up on the hill,” is probably the first building of Pierre
-to catch the eye when entering the city from any direction. Its great
-wings and massive dome cause it to stand out, and its height adds to its
-conspicuousness.
-
-Capitol Avenue, coming from the east runs true with the world. It leads
-thus past the Governor’s residence to a beautiful arch bridge over the
-outlet from what is known as Capitol Lake.
-
-On this placid lake, surrounded by splendid lawn, swans float gracefully
-and various other aquatic forms feed with varying degrees of industry.
-
-From here Capitol Avenue turns in a north-westerly direction gradually
-ascending to the Capitol, two blocks distant. The Capitol lies parallel
-to the avenue, being on the north-east side, facing the south-west. It
-is surrounded with beautiful trees, flowers, and an exceptionally
-beautiful lawn.
-
-After climbing the long flight of stone steps (the whole building is of
-white stone), we enter the rotunda of the Capitol. There we are greeted
-by a beautiful Carrara marble interior, set off by statues and pictures
-of those responsible for the early progress of South Dakota. From the
-exact center of the building we may look up into the gigantic dome
-fringed with remarkable paintings above exquisite balconies and alcoves.
-
-      [Illustration: Grand Stairway, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.]
-
-To the left of the entrance we step into the main reception room of the
-Governor. There we see that famous oil painting “The Spirit of
-Progress,” by Blashfield, covering the entire north-west wall. Into the
-room, if our visit were in 1927 or 1928, would come Governor Bulow, who
-greeted President Coolidge to his summer white house. Governor Bulow
-never failed to extend a warm welcome to the visitors at the Capitol.
-His words delivered at a high school track meet in 1928 are typical of
-him. “We are all competitors in contest of life. Upon our sportsmanship,
-fairness, and hard training depends our position at the finish.”
-
-From the Governor’s suite we go to the office of the Secretary of State,
-and thence through the offices of the Commissioner of Public Lands, and
-that of the State Treasurer.
-
-In the other wing we see the rooms of the Supreme Court of South Dakota,
-the offices of the judges, and the great Supreme Court Law Library.
-
-    [Illustration: Senate Chamber, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.]
-
-   [Illustration: House of Representatives Chamber, Capitol Building,
-                             Pierre, S. D.]
-
-Now we descend the stairs to the lower floor. Here we find case after
-case lining the entire basement, filled with Indian costumes, stone
-instruments, arrow heads, war uniforms, and weapons of historical
-importance, stuffed birds of S. D., bones of animals, present and past,
-the first bag of sugar produced in South Dakota (encased in a silk bag)
-and various other curios. On the walls are large framed pictures of many
-of the early heroes and state officers of South Dakota.
-
-On this floor are the offices of the state Railroad Commission, Attorney
-General, Public Examiner, Superintendent of Schools, Rural Credits
-Board, Library Commission, Historical Society, and State Sheriff. Under
-the steps is a lunch counter and confectionery stand, and in front of it
-an information desk. Last but not least, in the north-west end of the
-wing stands the gigantic moose.
-
-On the second floor we find the rooms of the state Senate and House of
-Representatives, with adjoining lobbies and other rooms.
-
-On the third floor are balconies to the legislative rooms, and various
-offices, including the automobile license department, the state banking
-department, state securities commission, and others.
-
-From this floor a spiral stairway leads up, up, up, to the room above
-the inner dome. From the dome room one can see the mighty turbulent
-waters of the Missouri bubble and boil on their way. The great bridge is
-in full view, with the railway bridge beyond. The scenes from the
-“Capitol dome” are remarkable. A trip to Pierre would be incomplete
-without this part.
-
-From the Capitol our trip takes us through the city of Pierre over the
-bridge to Fort Pierre where first evidences of white men in S. D. were
-found. A high flagpole now stands where the Verendrye Plate, planted in
-1743, was found.
-
-                    [Illustration: Capital Building]
-
-   [Illustration: The Verendrye Plate, found on the bluffs above Fort
-  Pierre, February 16, 1913. It was buried by La Verendrye, March 30,
-   1743, when he was exploring the land for France. This is the first
-                 evidence of white men in South Dakota.
-
-             See the plate in the corridor at the Capitol.]
-
-
-
-
-                              CHAPTER III
-                              The Badlands
-
-
-We cross the Missouri River on the morning of June 29th and speed along
-through comparatively new but highly productive agricultural land,
-through Hayes, Midland and Philip to Cottonwood. In Philip we find one
-of the most modern small cities of the state. It is worth stopping to
-see. When we arrive at Cottonwood, about three hours from Pierre, or a
-little less than one hundred ten miles, the weather seems favorable and
-the roads good so we turn south off U. S. highway 14. Only a few miles
-out of Cottonwood we look ahead and see the city-like elevations far in
-the distance. As we draw nearer this great wall of clay takes on a more
-artistic contour of multicolored towers, peaks, and walls, resembling
-ruins of ancient cities.
-
-                     [Illustration: Castle Turrets
-                                                            Fuson Photo]
-
-Countless theories and possibilities enter one’s mind to account for
-these magnificent walls, rising directly from a few feet to several
-hundred feet from level country. The level plains are grass covered, but
-the walls are practically bare. They are of almost pure sandy clay, with
-a little soft shale in a layer near the top. They average from a hundred
-to five hundred feet in height and are composed of several colors each,
-some containing yellow, pink, orange and blue, others having still
-different colors. For the most part the colors are plain or washed, but
-some are very pronounced.
-
-Other sections of the Badlands are depressions from the grassy flats,
-with enormous areas seemingly fallen straight down two to twenty feet,
-with perpendicular sides. The beds of these great depressions are bare
-yellow or white clay.
-
-Theories of the formation of these structures include “sea bottom,”
-“erosion,” “volcanic eruptions,” etc.
-
-             [Illustration: Summit of Cedar Pass, Interior
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-Seventeen miles from Cottonwood we drive through Cedar Pass into the
-Badlands. The road winds around and around, through depressions and
-through valleys between the great clay banks, ever leading upward. The
-grandeur of the enormous colored banks and walls would impress even the
-most barren minded person.
-
-If one is coming over the C. B. H., (or A Y P.); (U. S. 16 to be
-specific), he must leave for S. D. No. 40 about fifteen miles west of
-Kadoka, and he will emerge at Cedar Pass the same as though he came from
-the north. The view is magnificent.
-
-Finally the road gets narrow and precipitous. The passes become more
-crooked and the grades more steep. The road is bordered by profuse scrub
-cedar trees. There is a thrill in that drive! At first it looks
-dangerous, but the danger seems to minimize as we approach each more
-steep and more crooked and more narrow section. By taking it slowly the
-risk is small. (The road has since been improved.)
-
-       [Illustration: Amphitheatre of the Wilds. In the Bad Lands
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-  [Illustration: Vampire Peak in Cedar Pass, Interior. The entrance to
-                           the Big Bad Lands
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-                 [Illustration: Studying the Bad Lands]
-
-                [Illustration: Another Bad Lands Scene]
-
-We descend the south slope of the ridge, past the new Cedar Pass Camp,
-and drive five miles or so over a good road into Interior. On the way,
-however, we stop and walk for some distance among the hills. We find the
-clay to be hard and firm, resembling baked mud in texture. Each rain
-washes a little of the clay down, causing a gradual erosion through the
-years. This process has gradually uncovered the remains of life of this
-country at the time of its formation. We find a petrified tooth of some
-great animal. The tooth is about four inches long and two wide. Some
-distance farther we run across a mammoth rock formation embedded in the
-clay. It resembles and may have been the remains of a turtle six or
-seven feet in diameter, with head and feet protruding out of the bank.
-From these same environs scientists have taken great petrified skeletons
-of ancient mastodons, reptiles, birds and beasts of all shapes and
-sizes. We can easily imagine how these beasts got bogged down in this
-once soft, spongy ex-sea-bottom, there to remain through these
-centuries.
-
-We spend more time than we had planned examining the place, so we find
-ourselves in Interior for the night. We pitch camp, and during the night
-receive our first rain on the trip. Our sympathy for the poor little
-mouse who had appropriated a little of the tent roof for his nest is not
-very pronounced.
-
-The next morning we rise early. We hike to “Big Foot,” a high clay ridge
-south of town, and climb it. It proves much higher and more difficult to
-climb than first appearances indicate. The climb is a thriller,
-especially as the clay is a bit slippery this morning.
-
-           [Illustration: Manitou Mountain in the Bad Lands]
-
-We return for breakfast, stopping in a field on the way to examine a
-huge oil drilling rig which has been wrecked many years ago. It is made
-almost entirely of oak, some timbers being two feet square and very
-long. The main belt wheel is twelve feet in diameter, made also of wood.
-To us this is a sight.
-
-             [Illustration: Castle of Ancients, near Scenic
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-The bacon and coffee are more than welcome when we return. After
-breakfast we strike camp and drive into town. There Palmer’s Curio shop
-attracts us for some time. We leave with several calcium silicate
-crystals and specimens of the world’s only sand crystals.
-
-The most interesting person met on our trip is found in Interior. He is
-Mr. Henry Thompson, who runs a little souvenir stand called “The
-Wonderland.” He wears long, flowing white hair and a great flowing
-moustache of the same color. His acquaintance with the country dates
-back many a year.
-
-No one going through Interior should miss him. He tells some very
-interesting tales of early days in the West. Recently a motion picture
-company used him in the role of the Patriarch Moses in the mountains. He
-gives us a rehearsal of the role he played and recounts the garb of
-animal skins he wore, and other interesting features of the adventure.
-We listen with open mouths, and find it difficult to tear ourselves away
-for the continuance of our journey.
-
-Twenty-four miles west of Interior, after traveling through the scenic
-splendor of the Badlands we come upon a vast expanse of land covered
-with a crust of once molten rock about an inch thick, now all broken
-into fragments. The formation consists of two hardened layers of once
-molten rock, probably of calcium silicate composition, smooth on the
-outer edges and joined together by countless papilae, making the whole
-look like two layers joined by a porous center. There is no doubt in
-one’s mind, upon viewing it, that Satan must surely have had his
-headquarters here at some time or other.
-
-        [Illustration: Castle Rock in the Bad Lands, near Scenic
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-We follow State Highway Number 40 through other Badland wonders five
-miles farther. The road is very good. At Scenic we visit the widely
-known Museum Filling Station. Here we see a beautiful and interesting
-collection of stones from the Black Hills. In fact the entire building
-is covered with rocks, fossils and other interesting things embedded in
-concrete. Prehistoric animal bones and Indian relics from the Badlands
-are within. The bones, the curious animals, the pictures, the petrified
-eggs, the skeletons, Indian relics and numerous other curios are
-remarkable.
-
-        [Illustration: The Alter in the Castles of the Ancients
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-They have attracted people from throughout the world, not for a hasty
-examination but for extensive study. This place is one of the important
-places to see in the Badlands. One cannot afford to miss it under any
-circumstances.
-
-The vicinity of Scenic is known to scientists as the greatest fossil
-field in the United States. Scenic is also an Indian trading post.
-
-South of Scenic are some of the most spectacular examples of erosion in
-the United States. Some of the names assigned to them are: “Castle of
-the Ancients,” “The Altar of the Gods,” “Castle Rock,” “Castle Turrets,”
-“The Sphinx Twins,” “The Silent Sentinel,” “Amphitheater of the Wilds”
-and “The Devil’s Golf Course.” These remarkable formations almost hold
-us in reverent awe, so stupendous are they in their unusualness and
-grandeur.
-
-              [Illustration: LOWER ENTRANCE TO DILLON PASS
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-“Hell’s Ten Thousand Acres,” from Scenic south are equal in some ways to
-the Grand Canyon of Colorado in their ruggedness. “Hell’s Sunken
-Gardens,” south also, surpasses in beauty and magnitude anything of its
-kind in the world.
-
-                [Illustration: Bad Lands Museum, Scenic]
-
-Wounded Knee Battlefield, the last stand of the Sioux, is also south of
-Scenic. Here hundreds of Indians, men, women and children, were
-massacred by the soldiers when they stubbornly resisted the coming of
-law and government to take from them their hunting grounds. These
-Indians were all buried in one long grave, marked now with a tall marble
-slab on which are chiseled the odd names of the Indian dead.
-
-The management of the Museum Filling Station is very enthusiastic about
-the “Great Badlands.” They will furnish any additional information
-desired and will furnish guides at a reasonable cost to those who desire
-such in visiting the wonders to the south.
-
-From Scenic, trail 40 leads on to Rapid City. Some of the finer views of
-the Badlands are found along this road.
-
-On to Rapid City we drive, over an excellent dirt road. We stop on the
-Cheyenne River to eat our lunch. These little picnic grounds all help to
-make the trip a really enjoyable vacation. We must stop at the turn in
-the road for a drink of Nature’s purest nectar flowing through a huge
-fountain. This is just a few miles before we reach Rapid City.
-
-                   [Illustration: A Bad Lands Scene]
-
-             [Illustration: The Devil’s Golf Course, Scenic
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-               [Illustration: The Silent Sentinel, Scenic
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-From Scenic to Rapid City is about forty-five miles. After leaving
-Scenic the silhouetted black mountains, soon come into view. They are
-visible in their magnificent grandeur, fifty miles distant, growing more
-distinct as they are approached. Upon nearing them, if one is familiar
-with the various peaks, he can pick each out and call it by name.
-
-We reach Rapid City in the eastern foothills, at four o’clock. The
-School of Mines museum at the entrance to the city, also nationally and
-internationally known, is our first point of interest in the “Hills.”
-
-                    [Illustration: The route taken]
-
-
-
-
-                               CHAPTER IV
-                               Rapid City
-
-
-The School of Mines Museum is not an enormous affair. It is contained in
-one large room belonging to the School of Mines.
-
-The bones of prehistoric animals are probably the best known and most
-widely advertised part of the museum. This collection includes skulls,
-jaw bones, teeth, leg bones, and in fact whole skeletons of the
-prehistoric monsters. One cannot but wonder what life was like, and how
-these animals acted in the days when they lived. The size and contour of
-these skeletons are truly remarkable.
-
-                    [Illustration: On the Cheyenne]
-
-In cases throughout the room are displayed a vast variety of minerals,
-ores, types of rock formations, replicas of famous diamonds, and
-numerous other curios. On the south wall is an American flag, weighing
-400 pounds, made of Black Hills minerals. On the east wall are two
-excellent relief maps of gigantic proportions, showing relative heights
-in the Black Hills. Guns and various other relics adorn the walls. No
-visitor to the “Hills” can afford to miss this part of the trip. It may
-take one half hour to a day, depending on one’s interest in the
-displays, but the time is excellently spent.
-
-                       [Illustration: Camp made]
-
-From the School we drive into Rapid City, and after a bit of shopping,
-on to the Municipal Tourist Camp. This camp is about four miles up Rapid
-Canyon west of the city.
-
-By the time the tent is pitched and camp made a dinner does not meet an
-unwelcome reception. Why the camp stove should choose this time to balk
-is a still unanswered question. Somehow these appliances know when they
-can aggravate one the most.
-
-Here in the Municipal Camp we receive a pleasant surprise. Instead of
-the expected camp grounds we find a beautiful spot for pitching our
-tent, “Old Swayback,” modern toilet facilities, a laundry with hot
-water, stores, and best of all an honest to goodness “swimmin hole” in
-Rapid Creek.
-
-True to the spirit of the Black Hills, Rapid City Municipal Camp has its
-neat log cabin, with reading table, fireplace, electric lights, and
-other conveniences for its guests. Tourists are welcomed there at any
-and all times. These log cabins are a decided thrill to the traveler who
-is not familiar with them. Later in this account there will be a
-description of the typical log cabin.
-
-The camp cots, in which we have so much confidence at first, have begun
-by this time to feel a bit hard, to seem a bit cold, and to afford a
-rather meager sort of rest. But here Yankee ingenuity might come into
-good play.
-
-The desirability of light steel camp beds instead of the cots and the
-need of light mattresses becomes evident.
-
-Sunday morning proves an excellent time to get acquainted with the
-habits of the Rapid Creek trout. Only three consent to being lured from
-their swim, however. The fishing is rather slow but nevertheless
-enjoyable. To a more experienced angler the luck is usually different.
-
-                  [Illustration: Warren-Lamb Saw Mill
-                                                             Rise Photo]
-
-From fishing we turn to swimming. This proves to be a more lively sport.
-The water is fine, just a least bit cool. The current is the feature of
-this plunge. One no sooner gets out into it than he feels himself being
-pulled very rapidly downstream. The sensation is not exactly reassuring.
-In fact it frightens one. But it takes only a few strokes to get out of
-the swift water into more placid pools. This learned, it becomes
-pleasant to defy the current. Another surprise awaits. When one attempts
-to swim back to the side from which he entered, the current carries him
-past the precipitous rocks before he can pull himself out. No amount of
-trying results otherwise. This is almost terrifying. Fortunately, at
-this point a man happens along who is familiar with the pool. He shows
-us where there is a small quiet spot where the swimmer can climb up on
-the rocks without danger of being carried downstream. Again a precarious
-situation develops into a pleasure.
-
-We wish to attend church, but have no clothing along except our camping
-equipment. This convinces us that we should have brought along some more
-respectable clothing for it will not be amiss on several occasions
-during the trip.
-
-             [Illustration: Rapid Canyon, near Dark Canyon
-                                                             Photo by V]
-
-After lunch we drive up Rapid Canyon to Lockhart Inn. We go up the
-mountainside to see the moss sculpturing by Mr. Lockhart called “A
-Miner’s Dream.” Then we start the ascent up the Canyon on foot. This is
-a climb that will pay one well. From Rapid Canyon we turn into Dark
-Canyon ascending by rock ledge paths and canyon floor through beautiful
-formations of nature’s handiwork. One cannot imagine the thrill, not
-only of the scenery but also the thrill of accomplishment, a hundred per
-cent pleasant that goes with this trip. Some of the sidelights of the
-trip are “Sitting Bull’s Kitchen,” “Victoria Falls,” (a beautiful
-waterfall), “Jungle of the Gods,” “Bridge of the Gods,” (a natural
-bridge formerly over the canyon but now fallen in), and “Bear Cave.” The
-picturesque grandeur of the panorama, the stupendous rocks, the great
-precipices, the straight tall trees, the swift, cold, clear streams and
-many other awe inspiring and pleasant experiences stamp themselves
-indelibly upon our minds. The experiences include climbing precipitous
-places, jumping and climbing over rocks, looking down over precipices
-hundreds of feet below, continually discovering something new to enjoy.
-The effect is invigorating, exhilarating, satisfying. The path is not
-dangerous at any place, though filled with thrills, especially on the
-paths built on ledges around the mountain. These are the rambles that
-mean most to vacationists, and unfortunately they are too often left out
-because of the time needed and the effort necessary to make them.
-
-           [Illustration: Rim Rock Highway in the Black Hills
-                                         Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.]
-
-
-
-
-                               CHAPTER V
-                              Cement Plant
-
-
-Monday morning we strike camp at 9:00 a. m. We drive into Rapid City,
-get our snapshots of the Badlands which had been finished there, again
-shop a bit, and drive out to the cement plant.
-
-First, however, a word about Rapid City. It is a thriving little city on
-the eastern entrance to the Hills. The streets have a modern air to
-them, with occasional reminders of the days of the “West.” During the
-tourist season the city fairly teems with life. Prices are reasonable
-and the people are courteous. The city resembles those farther east for
-the most part, not being without the familiar Woolworth and Penny
-stores. But the relics of cowboy days are still in evidence, and
-specimens of fish and game, alive or mounted, are shown with no little
-pride.
-
-The high school, where President Coolidge had his summer Capitol in
-1927, is a place worth stopping to see.
-
-The State cement plant is run by the State of South Dakota. It employs
-about 150 people. The plant consists of the quarries, the sheds for raw
-rock, chutes, power house, crushers, the hydrating and baking plant, the
-furnaces, the drying tanks, the sacking department, and the offices.
-Each of the buildings is very large. The raw rock shed holds thousands
-of tons of rock. Each of the ten storage or drying tanks holds 15,000
-barrels of cement. The plant can turn out twenty car loads a day, with
-eight hundred to a thousand sacks to each car.
-
-The men work nine hours each day and sometimes ten. The plant closed
-five months the first year, three the second, and this last year it
-closed but one month. When we visit it, it has more orders than it can
-fill. The South Dakota cement is a superior quality and is much in
-demand.
-
-To the person interested in machinery the huge turbines and generators
-are very interesting. These powerful affairs taking up but little room,
-generate enough electrical power to run the whole enormous plant.
-
-In going through the plant one starts at the raw rock sheds. Here the
-loading devices carry the stone over a conveyor into the crushers. From
-there the material goes, by various processes to be soaked and made into
-mud, mixed, dried in blast tubes by very intense heat and flame, crushed
-again, run into drying tanks, and finally sacked and loaded into
-boxcars.
-
-There are two men, known as sackers who, with the use of machinery, can
-fill 15,000 to 20,000 sacks a day. They receive the empty sacks, tied by
-wire at the top, and only open in one toe. This open toe is slipped over
-a nozzle through which the cement pours into the sack suspended upside
-down, resting on a small scale. When the proper weight of cement has
-entered, the scale lets the bag down upon a conveyor belt and at the
-same time shuts off the cement in the nozzle.
-
-      [Illustration: South Dakota State Cement Plant, Rapid City]
-
-The flap inside the toe of the sack pulls across the hole closing the
-sack. Each man has four sacks filling at once, and he has just barely
-time to put on a sack and re-adjust his machinery before the next sack
-is ready. The conveyor belts carry the filled bags to a chute which
-deposits them in the box car, one on either side of the sacker. Each of
-the many machines throughout the plant is driven by a small but powerful
-electric motor.
-
-      [Illustration: A visitor in the forests of the Black Hills]
-
-The cement plant is not one of nature’s wonders, but one of the products
-of God’s masterpiece, man. It and other mechanical achievements are
-hardly less to be marvelled at than the natural wonders, themselves.
-
-
-
-
-                               CHAPTER VI
-                              Crystal Cave
-
-
-From the cement plant we take U. S. Highway number 16 through Black Hawk
-and Piedmont to Crystal Cave. On this road we encounter the second
-notable man-made achievement. The car begins to register a few degrees
-of added heat in the cooling system. Before we reach the top of the
-great hill, (several miles long), we pass several cars which have not
-been as effectively cooled as our own. The grade has been gradual and
-even, clear from the bottom to the top of the mountain. The road winds
-around vale and crag, often having had to be cut through solid rock or
-cut into a niche on the steep side of the mountain. It is a feat of
-engineering skill capable of firing the imagination of anyone.
-
-                [Illustration: Entrance to Crystal Cave]
-
-About sixteen miles out of Rapid City we come to the huge arrow and sign
-pointing to Crystal Cave. The distance it was to be from the main road
-is given us on the sign board; it seems twice as far. The road is no
-longer smooth and surfaced or the grades regular or straight. These
-“side” roads are fast being improved, and probably by another year this
-one will be fairly smooth, and wide enough for two cars to pass
-anywhere. We find it a bit rough, rutted, winding through dense
-vegetation, and narrow. However, in dry weather the driving there is
-safe, comparatively easy, and enjoyable. The scenery is quite
-picturesque. To those interested in birds, trees, and flowers this will
-be a splendid bit of road.
-
-After some little time, a half hour or less, we arrive at the cave
-entrance.
-
-               [Illustration: Bridal Veil, Crystal Cave]
-
-The headquarters are located in a little log cabin with a wide veranda
-where one can see specimens from the cave and where souvenirs may be
-bought. The new cave entrance, pictured herewith is just above the
-cabin.
-
-When a large enough party has gathered, a guide lights many gasoline
-lanterns and we are told to file into the cave entrance. As we do so the
-guide distributes the lights. After this he takes the lead.
-
-We go into the cave in our regular clothing, without needing slickers or
-other special equipment. It might be said, however, khaki clothing and
-hobnailed boots are not so bad for a trip of this kind. The same holds
-for mountain climbing. High heels are decidedly a detriment to progress,
-and somewhat precarious as well, where the footing is moist or steep.
-
-            [Illustration: The Butcher’s Face, Crystal Cave]
-
-With our lanterns we file after the guide. He leads us down and forward
-into the bowels of the earth, stopping occasionally to explain the
-various formations which we are passing. His “line” is strongly based on
-fact, and if one has a good imagination he can enjoy the trip, being
-able to “see” the various animals, rooms, or formations which the guide
-points out.
-
-             [Illustration: The Frozen River, Crystal Cave
-                                                          O’Neill Photo]
-
-First, the cave has been formed in limestone, through erosion by water,
-extending over many thousands of years. The mineral part of the water
-has hardened in perfect crystals, looking as though they had been cut.
-These crystals cling to the walls, creating a beautiful effect. They are
-as hard as rock.
-
-Some of the high lights of the trip are “Devil’s Ice Box,” “Moses’s Meat
-Market,” with hams, bacon and a chicken hanging from the ceiling, “The
-Butcher Himself” (pictured), in his parlor, “Poverty Flats,” “Corcham’s
-Art Gallery,” which contained well hung walls, and even a goat. Then
-came “Cathedral Cave,” with its crystalline rolling clouds. “The Polar
-Bear,” “Diamond Rock,” made of pulverized mica, and “Santa Claus.”
-
-There are stalactites hung from the tops of some of the caves and
-stalagmites built up from the floors, each of which if it could talk
-could tell stories that would be ancient history to Moses.
-
-Going on, we come to “Old Man Cave” and “Black Hills Bakery.” In the
-latter were buns (of solid rock), rolls and loaves of bread, natural
-formations. From here we go into a room 300 feet below the surface and
-put out the lights. It is very dark there, even in the daytime.
-
-We light the lanterns, pass on, and come to the “Whale that Jonah
-swallowed.” Next comes the “Mayflower,” and last the trip out. The
-“Bridal Veil” and “Frozen River” were among the most picturesque of the
-scenes, the exact position of which are not recalled.
-
-Most of the rooms and passages are six to twelve feet in height. Some
-are hundreds of feet deep and some are too close to the floor for the
-unwary head. These rocks do not give very far when one’s head hits them.
-
-Our guide is a decidedly congenial and unassuming young man. He wins the
-favor of all of the party, keeping the spirits high through the whole
-trip.
-
-One half mile down, on the road from Crystal Cave is a sign pointing
-toward Knife Blade Rock. This is a gigantic thin rock formation rising
-600 feet out of the bed of the canyon. The origin of this phenomenon
-also kindles one’s imagination.
-
-When viewing Knife Blade Rock we stand on a high precipitous canyon wall
-and look nearly straight down hundreds of feet into the Elk Creek
-Canyon. This view is magnificent; the great deep canyon, the precipitous
-cliff, Knife Blade, and the expansive opposite bank covered with heavy
-vegetation.
-
-                         [Illustration: Cabin]
-
-From here we move on toward Sturgis about ten miles distant.
-
-
-
-
-                              CHAPTER VII
-                                Sturgis
-
-
-The road to Sturgis is pretty well crowded with cars headed for the
-Tri-State Roundup at Belle Fourche. We arrive about four o’clock. The
-next hour is spent in getting boots repaired, getting haircuts and in
-replenishing the food supply.
-
-We still have a good supply of eggs, butter, bacon, fruit, and
-vegetables which we packed up on the farm before starting the trip. At
-each tourist camp we get plenty of fresh vegetables and milk. We
-appreciate the vegetable and store service of the camps. It is
-excellent. This, with the food stove, utensils and dishes we brought
-with us on the trip, makes our food question simple and economical as
-well as highly satisfactory. We enjoy every meal.
-
-               [Illustration: Bear Butte in the Distance]
-
-Sturgis has one of the best tourist parks we encountered on the trip.
-The camp is equipped with excellent little cottages for those who prefer
-them. It has a main camp building containing running spring water,
-modern toilet facilities with hot and cold water, shower baths and a
-laundry. Bear Butte Creek flows directly behind our tent. Above our
-heads are electric lights. Beside the thrill and exhilaration of camping
-the conveniences are almost equal to those enjoyed in a first class
-hotel. The nice shady camp site, however, to the person enjoying the
-out-of-doors makes a hotel feel like a dungeon. The tent takes but a few
-minutes to set up and it adds tremendously to the pleasure of an outing.
-
-                  [Illustration: Bear Butte, close up
-                                                              O. A. Vik]
-
-We get a good night’s rest in the Sturgis park and rise early the
-following morning to partake of the nice hot flap-jacks, bacon, coffee
-and oatmeal. (We will need it all before lunch time).
-
-We start out bright and early to climb Bear Butte. We take trail No. 79
-out to the northeast of Sturgis. We leave the highway a few miles out
-and take the Bear Butte trail. What looked like a mile or two proves to
-be seven or eight, and what looked like a small mound proves to be a
-huge formation rising nearly a thousand feet above its base.
-
-We had hoped to prance right up to the top on short notice. Our troubles
-start when we cannot decide whether we are supposed to go up the east or
-south slope. We find later that either is sufficiently difficult. We
-finally flounder around to a farm house near the south slope, leave the
-car and start up.
-
-  [Illustration: Climbing Bear Butte. It is more steep than it looked]
-
-The slope is steep and progress slow. The whole party of us begin the
-climb. When we reach the shale slope and have to climb instead of walk,
-only three of us are still going. Even our shoes show the effects of the
-rocks. Well, we climb for an hour and finally find ourselves on the top
-of this promontory which we have by this time learned to respect. The
-pictures show the size of the rocks compared with the humans climbing
-them.
-
-The view from here is excellent. We can see Mt. Roosevelt, Harney Peak,
-White Rocks and other peaks with which we are acquainted standing out in
-distant relief. The plains stretch out for miles and miles to the north
-and east, and the picturesque mountains are spread in the other
-directions. It seems almost as though this peak towers above the entire
-surrounding country on all sides. The view is well worth the hard climb
-necessary to attain it. The U. S. Geological Survey marker on the top
-indicates that the height is 4439 feet above the sea level, 987 feet
-above the city of Sturgis which, is 3452 feet. (See appendix.)
-
-We descend in somewhat better time than it took us to go up, have lunch
-and return to camp. From here we take trail 24 for about two miles out
-to Ft. Meade, a military post. Here we watch a polo game and guard
-mount. In the camp are stationed about 750 U. S. regular army artillery
-men and cavalrymen.
-
-While at Sturgis we should take the Boulder Canyon road to Deadwood but
-we miss this scenery as well as Rim Rock Drive above Rapid Canyon.
-Boulder Canyon is one of the most picturesque roads in the Hills, so
-enormous are its perpendicular figured rock walls.
-
-              [Illustration: The Shale Slope, Bear Butte]
-
-
-
-
-                              CHAPTER VIII
-                             Belle Fourche
-
-
-We retire early on the night of the third and are on the road early the
-next morning, headed for Belle Fourche over U. S. 16. At Whitewood we go
-over another gigantic ridge of hills which taxes our heavily loaded car.
-At Spearfish we take U. S. 85 and gradually leave the mountains for the
-more level northern plains.
-
-We arrive in a very busy Belle Fourche. The streets are lined with
-people, refreshment stands, side shows and various other gala sights.
-Parking room is scarce. The whole town reflects the western spirit. The
-predominating costume is that of the cowboy dressed up. Broad rimmed,
-high crowned hats and bright silk neckerchiefs are everywhere.
-
-            [Illustration: President Coolidge at the Roundup
-                                         Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.]
-
-Probably a Scotch visitor would not exactly appreciate the reception.
-The Roundup is a gala affair. The people come there to spend money.
-Those running the various amusements and refreshment stands seem to
-understand this perfectly and render all possible assistance. In the
-West the celebrations are not marked with the conservatism of the East.
-
-We enjoy the day after we get our bearings. We have lunch after a couple
-of hours of “seeing Belle” and then go out to the Roundup. The road is
-packed; we have started none too soon. True to the training of school
-teachers, we try to conserve on costs as much as possible. We have paid
-a dollar apiece for general admission and now we decide a fifty cent
-seat will be nearly as good as one for a dollar or more.
-
-                    [Illustration: An Exciting Ride
-                       Bill Pawley on a high one.
-                          Cody Stampede, 1921]
-
-We get excellent bleacher seats, but somehow they get surprisingly hard
-during the three hours and over that we sit there. The sun is
-uncomfortably hot and the folks climbing up and down are none too
-careful at whose expenses they get the dust brushed from their shoes. We
-can not see the events very plainly in some cases, but we are not
-cheated out of very much of the performance at that.
-
-The clown car opens the day. Of course it is a Ford. But the clown has
-done his duty and the affair brings forth more than forced smiles. The
-Rapid City Bugle Corps, the Cavalry Band (mounted) from Fort Meade, and
-the C. & N. W. Band from Chicago are outstanding attractions.
-
-The cow pony race comes next, then roping and the cowboy relay. Those
-cowboys can certainly change saddles from one pony to another in a hurry
-and also ride. Following this comes exhibitions in horseback hurdling by
-cavalrymen. Then comes a contest of cowboys riding steers. The man who
-stays with his steer longest wins. Some of those fellows get pretty hard
-spills. The broncho riding contest is just as lively. The horses try
-hard enough to unseat their riders and many of them succeed. The clown,
-in enormous red “Shaps,” rides a bucking steer upon which he is mounted
-backward.
-
-                      [Illustration: Steer riding]
-
-The cowgirl race is a close one, the winner almost having to win by the
-proverbial sticking out of the horse’s tongue.
-
-After this comes stunt riding and trick riding. The men, and women, too,
-ride at a gallop doing head stands on the saddle, standing upright, at
-right angles to the horse, clinging beneath the horse’s neck, seated
-backward and in various other ways. They do gymnastics on the horses in
-full gallop. One juggles balls in the air while riding, standing on the
-saddle at full gallop. One lies on his back whirling a rope while the
-horse beneath him runs. The clown rides a bucking Missouri mule.
-
-                     [Illustration: The Horse Wins
-                      Dug Walker off Ripvanwinkle
-                       White River Frontier Days
-                                                          O’Neill Photo]
-
-For deviation, songs are sung amplified so that the crowd can hear them.
-One is “Black Hills Rosebud.” Governor Bulow gives a short talk, too.
-
-Bulldogging steers, or riding up beside them, grasping them by the
-horns, at full run, dismounting and throwing them upon their backs seems
-to be the most popular sport. The record time is under nine seconds.
-
-The cowgirl relay is another exciting event. A cowgirl then puts on a
-highly applauded solo dance. After this comes the calf roping contest.
-This calls for real action. Riders, mounted on two horses, one foot on
-each, furnished the next race. One girl is entered.
-
-                [Illustration: Orman Dam, Belle Fourche]
-
-Mabel Strickland, famous woman rider, puts on a steer roping exhibition
-and the bucking mule riding contest follows. Then comes the wild horse
-race. During the whole performance Clyde Ice of the Rapid Transit Co. is
-hovering over the fairgrounds with his tri-motored Ford passenger plane.
-
-The last event is an exhibition by one of the girls riding a bucking
-horse. The horse throws the young lady before leaving the corral shute.
-Accidents occasionally occur in this rough play, though they are rarely
-fatal. All in all, the performance is very good.
-
-   [Illustration: U. and I. Sugar Plant, Belle Fourche, South Dakota
-                                                           O’Neill Photo
-
- This is one of the large plants for making sugar from beets located in
-the midwestern states. This plant is supplied with beets from the Belle
-Fourche Valley, irrigated from the great irrigation project administered
-  by the United States Government, and located north of Belle Fourche.
-Needless to say this is one of the major industries of this part of the
-                                state.]
-
-After the program there are twenty thousand people trying to leave the
-grounds at once and soon after the roads from Belle Fourche receive a
-goodly share of these people. We follow the southbound stream as far as
-the tourist camp, a mile or two out.
-
-Belle Fourche has a modern camp, although it is just in the process of
-construction and not yet as complete as some of the others. They have an
-outdoor dance floor, which is very popular on the night of the Fourth.
-
-The morning of the fifth we drive back through Belle Fourche and east
-over U. S. Highway 212 to the “U. and I.” sugar plant. This is another
-of the Black Hills industries. We are given a pamphlet telling us that:
-the plant covers eight acres; the main building is five stories high;
-the length of the factory and warehouse is 587 feet; the capacity is
-fifteen hundred tons of beets each twenty-four hours, and the output
-3600 hundred pound bags of sugar every day. Three hundred men are
-employed during refining season.
-
-A guide takes us through. We first see six 400 horsepower boilers and
-two 1200 horsepower generators. These are enormous affairs. They develop
-the power for the plant. We proceed to the place where the beets are
-unloaded and conveyed through an open flume, through a trash catcher to
-the washer.
-
-                  [Illustration: Spillway, Orman Dam]
-
-From here the beets are taken by an elevator to the top of the plant.
-There knives cut them into small strings less than a half inch in
-diameter. These chips or “spaghetti” are run into diffusion tanks. They
-first go to a liming station, then through sulfur stoves, a bleaching
-process and on into evaporating tanks. Here the solution is concentrated
-from 12 per cent sugar to 65 per cent pure. Then the sugar is put
-through a centrifugal crystalizer and through a hot air blast dryer. It
-takes just twenty-four hours from beets to sugar. All machinery is
-electric.
-
-The factory produced 183,000 bags of sugar last year or over eighteen
-million pounds. About one-fourth of this is in the warehouse when we
-visit it. The beets were grown on 11,000 acres in 1927 and the total
-crop was 35,000 tons of beets.
-
-                  [Illustration: An Irrigation Canal]
-
-We go further east on the highway 212 to the byroad leading north to
-Orman Dam. The dam is a gigantic affair, holding back a tremendous
-amount of water for use in irrigating land for sugar beets and other
-crops. The water is so clear that we can see the fish swimming beneath
-its surface.
-
-The Belle Fourche Reclamation Project is one of the wonders of the
-western part of South Dakota. It is not in the “Hills” proper, but is
-well worth going to see. We drive on to Nisland, observing the effects
-of irrigation as we go.
-
-
-
-
-                               CHAPTER IX
-                               Spearfish
-
-
-      [Illustration: U. S. Government Fish Hatchery at Spearfish]
-
-From Nisland we retrace our route through Belle Fourche to Spearfish.
-There we find another splendid and modern camp. We enjoy staying at
-these camps of which their cities are justly proud. The cost is the same
-fifty cents per night as that of the less developed camps. But the
-modern toilet facilities, running water, wood, stoves, lights, community
-log cabins, dance floors, swimming pool, fishing and patrol system
-create in the traveler’s heart a warm feeling toward those cities or
-towns. In addition to this, the freedom with which people from all over
-the United States meet and talk over experiences is a source of lasting
-pleasure to the conversational type. The large cars of eastern
-manufacturers and the Fords of vagabonds from any place in South Dakota
-or the United States sleep side by side. Toward evening knots of people
-gather here and there about the camp or in the community building and
-the topic is likely to be anything from sheep raising in Perkins county
-or mica mining at Keystone to the workings of the New York Stock
-Exchange. Roads are discussed, scenery and experiences are swapped and
-friendships are made. Everyone is congenial, all are neighbors and class
-spirit does not exist. It would surprise one how he can broaden his
-knowledge through these contacts.
-
-No matter whether one’s interest is fishing, swimming, camping or
-gossiping, he or she will naturally fit into a group in camp.
-
-            [Illustration: Lookout Mountain near Spearfish]
-
-The United States trout hatchery is located beside the Spearfish camp,
-just across the bridge to the south. Here the United States government
-maintains tanks in which they raise several varieties of trout. There is
-a different size in each tank ranging from the frisky little baby trout
-to the sedate monsters that give a person a certain longing for just one
-chance at their like. These speckled and rainbow beauties are a sight to
-behold. If one can get around there at feeding time he will behold a
-still greater treat.
-
-Across the road from the hatchery is a pretty decent little swimming
-pool, formed by a dam in Spearfish Creek. A swim in one of these clear
-mountain streams is a rare treat. The visitor in the “Hills” should plan
-to indulge as often as possible.
-
-              [Illustration: Spearfish Creek, Lead, S. D.]
-
-              [Illustration: Maurice, In Spearfish Canyon
-                                                              O. A. Vik]
-
-                   [Illustration: Bridal Veil Falls]
-
-The next morning, July 6th, we take a trip up Spearfish Canyon. The road
-leads past the fish hatchery, plunging into the mountains and woods over
-ground owned or leased by the Homestake Mine Company. The road is fairly
-well worn but poorly marked. Nevertheless, this trip above all others is
-not one to be abandoned. Word just arrives that the road will be
-improved clear to Lead next summer. The road winds over gentle slopes
-and makes sharp turns. One must drive under twenty miles per hour and
-sound his horn often. But a person does not realize the marvelous beauty
-that lies hidden in this valley until he actually penetrates, not a mile
-or two, but clear up as far as cars will go. One must get out and press
-through the timber until he comes to a place from which he can view a
-great expanse of the valley and wall before he can fully appreciate
-Spearfish Canyon.
-
-                   [Illustration: Admiring the Falls]
-
-Wildcat Cave is located a few miles up the valley. The car must be
-parked beside the road and the ascent up the steep canyon wall continued
-on foot. The cave lies a quarter of a mile or so up. The climb to it is
-steep and part of the way is over rocks washed by springs.
-
-The path leads through dense growths of timber and shrubs. At last we
-come to a huge overhanging cliff, below which is the Wildcat Cave. Over
-the top of the cliff clear cold spring water half drips, half runs
-continually. At various places in its walls springs ooze out, too. The
-one little waterfall over the center comes down through about fifty feet
-of space. If a person is adventuresome and ambitious he might climb the
-crags clear to the top of the mountain on the right.
-
-                          [Illustration: Savoy
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-Seven and a half miles up the canyon from Spearfish we come to Bridal
-Veil Falls. This is a beautiful waterfall, with not much volume but a
-great height. Probably it falls 200 feet and is twenty feet wide on the
-average. The spectacle of this is really awe inspiring. The flimsy lace
-like folds tumbling over the succeeding layers of rock make
-unquestionably the most beautiful waterfall in the Black Hills. We stop
-at its foot to eat our lunch while admiring its beauty.
-
-                    [Illustration: Multiplex Falls]
-
-From Bridal Veil Falls the road winds up the canyon to the Spearfish
-hydro-electric water flume. Above that is Roughlock Falls and the
-Homestake hydro-electric plant, and we must not forget Latchstring Inn.
-Foolish is the visitor who turns back before seeing all of these, if
-weather conditions permit.
-
-After this the trail leads back to Spearfish and thence fifteen miles
-over into Wyoming. We could go on west to Devil’s Tower, but that would
-mean a long trip. So we just cross the State line and return. Here the
-fun begins for us. The rain has begun, slowly at first and has kept ever
-increasing. We have determined to make Pine Crest Park at Deadwood this
-evening, and accordingly break camp and set out. We have gone a few
-miles when the rain comes down in torrents. Fortunately the roads are
-good, but we have to drive with the windshield cleaner working
-constantly. We enjoy the beautiful scenery in spite of the rain.
-
-We take U. S. 14 for eight miles or so, and then turn south on U. S. 85
-for another five miles. On the way we come to Preacher Smith’s monument.
-This has been erected in honor of Mr. Smith, Deadwood’s first minister.
-
-The story is told how he came to Deadwood with the first settlers when
-gold was discovered. He preached to whoever would listen to him. One day
-he headed for the vicinity of Whitewood to deliver a sermon. He was
-advised not to start out because the Indians were hostile. He insisted
-that his Bible was all the weapon he needed. Today a monument stands
-near where the Indians killed him. Several authors have told the story
-of Preacher Smith. Anyone interested in the story should by all means
-read it from some authentic source.
-
-
-
-
-                               CHAPTER X
-                            Pine Crest Camp
-
-
-The road from Spearfish rises gradually. At the highest point on the
-road, thirteen miles from Spearfish, the entrance to Pine Crest Camp
-comes into view. This is a really beautiful camp. It is one hundred per
-cent what its name implies.
-
-A camp built over one of the tent floors is comfortable even in rainy
-weather. However, if experience is any teacher, it might be said that
-trying to sleep under a hole in the tent roof on a rainy night is a
-pleasure only to the other fellow.
-
-In the evening, after camp is built and dinner served, a walk to the
-community house proves a worth while venture. Pine Crest gives us the
-heartiest welcome of any place in the “Hills.” In the log community
-house, (it is a masterpiece of masterpieces), a cheerful fire awaits.
-The ample stone fireplace seems doubly welcome on a rainy night. Does it
-feel good? Say!
-
-In the cabin are gathered a group of high school girls from Lead, a
-family from Kansas City, a Canadian, some Ohio people, Texans and
-several others. And a jolly time we have. Stories starts the program.
-Music follows and a lively community dance tops it off. The atmosphere
-is that of one great big family gathered together after a long
-separation.
-
-Under the cabin, in a well finished basement are modern toilet rooms, a
-laundry, and shower baths. There is both hot and cold water. The whole
-is free to the tourists who are camped in the park. The initial fifty
-cents a night covers the entire cost.
-
-Our enjoyable evening draws to a close and we return to the tent for a
-good night’s rest.
-
-The experiences from now on are to be on historic ground.
-
-     [Illustration: Community House—Pine Crest Park—Deadwood, S.D.]
-
-
-
-
-                               CHAPTER XI
-                                  Lead
-
-
-Pine Crest proves to be such a good camp that we decide to make it our
-headquarters for a day or two. In the morning we put up a lunch and
-drive over to Lead. Of course the first and foremost point of interest
-in Lead is Homestake Mine. We stop at the Burlington Railway station and
-register for the trip through the mine buildings. It is only a few
-moments before we are ready to start.
-
-We follow our young lady guide up a steep incline. Half way up she stops
-us and asks us to face about. Clear across the gulch on the opposite
-side of town is a huge cut, where the hill is virtually cut in two.
-This, she tells us is the site of the first mine, a surface working. We
-are told that $20,000,000 worth of gold came from this cut.
-
-              [Illustration: Homestake Mills, Lead, S.D.]
-
-We go on up the hill to the Ellison shaft, the one now being used most
-extensively. There the ore is coming up from the 2300 foot level, by
-hoists and seven ton cars. It is dumped into a conveyor belt, and passes
-the pickers. We go next to see the giant air compressors for maintaining
-circulation of air in the mines.
-
-The hoist room contains large drums driven by 1400 horse power electric
-motors working on direct current. These huge affairs bring the heavy
-cars up from the mine in a very short time. Their speed and precision
-are remarkable, considering their enormous size. The room is immaculate.
-
-From the hoist room we go to the shop where diamond drills are
-sharpened. These are tubular bars of hard iron, with hollow centers, and
-sharp edges on one end in the form of a cross. They are used with the
-electric drill down the mine, working on the plan of the electric
-riveter. When dull these points are brought to the surface, pounded into
-shape in a trip hammer, while white hot, and tempered very hard.
-
-The motor generator which is driven by alternating current and delivers
-direct current is a huge affair. It has to be in order to develop enough
-direct current to drive the heavy machinery. Its flywheel alone weighs
-thirty-five tons.
-
-In the blacksmith shop all of the blacksmith work of the mine is done.
-Repairs are made, castings are made, gears are cut, and iron is pounded
-into shape. A pair of shears is cutting iron ¾ inch thick for a boiler.
-The ease with which it goes through this mass is astounding. Lathes are
-plaining blocks of iron or gears into shape. These lathes are cutting
-shavings a half-inch thick. In the molding room molten iron is being
-poured into casts, covered with sand, and allowed to cool.
-
-Now comes the real gold mill. The first part we come to is the rock
-crusher or rod mills. From the rod mills the material is taken to the
-stamper, where it is mixed with water. The solution passes to dewatering
-cones and cleaner troughs. Rod mills crush the ore to powder, which,
-with water makes a mud. The mud passes through troughs containing
-mercury. Most of the gold leaves the mud and clings to the mercury.
-
-The remaining solution goes to sand slime separation cones and then to
-cyanide tanks. The tanks are filled with mud. The water drains off.
-Cyanide is poured over the mass. The cyanide sinks, carrying the
-remaining gold of the crushed ore to the bottom with it. This is
-reclaimed and the mud is washed out and sent down the gulch.
-
-The trip is an interesting one. The guide now tells us that the gold is
-molded into bricks worth twenty-five to thirty thousand dollars.
-Approximately sixteen are made each month.
-
-                     [Illustration: B & M. Shop #2
-         One of the buildings of the Homestake Mining Company’s
-                              Lead, S.D.]
-
-Quoting from literature distributed by the mining company the following
-might be of interest:
-
-“The Black Hills are highly mineralized, containing practically every
-known element to a greater or lesser degree. Lead is the home of the
-Homestake mining company, the largest gold mining concern in the world.
-The company has been running continuously since 1877 and has taken from
-the ground approximately 56,000,000 tons of ore yielding $200,000,000 of
-gold (now over $212,000,000.) In order to produce an annual output of
-$6,000,000 about 2,000 men are steadily employed. The average daily
-output is 43500 tons, or 1,750,000 tons annually. There is enough ore
-blocked out to furnish the mills with this many tons a day for nine
-years.
-
-“More than 1,554,117 pounds, or 3,108,234 sticks of 40% dynamite was
-used in 1927, costing over $500 a day. In 1927, 3,816,724 feet or over
-722 miles of fuse was used. If this were in one length it would take 971
-days, 21 hours and 22 minutes and 8 seconds for the flame to traverse
-it. More than a million blasts were set off during the year.
-
-“The company has never undertaken to furnish houses. It has, however,
-encouraged the building of homes by giving free permits to occupy
-company ground and by advancing the purchase price and allowing the
-employee to pay on the monthly payment plan with a low rate of interest
-on deferred payments. After forty years of continuous operation as the
-sole industry of the community there are few company owned houses in
-Lead. Under this policy the town has grown from a typical mining camp
-with its log cabins and board shacks, into a modern small city with
-paved streets, sewer and water systems, electric lights and beautiful
-homes, owned largely by their occupants. The grocer, the butcher, and
-the hardware dealer, the clothier and the real estate men carry on their
-business in this mining camp as in an ordinary town of equal size. Keen
-competition keeps prices at a reasonable level.
-
-“No part of the welfare work at the Homestake has met the needs of the
-people more fully than the free library, originally a Christmas gift
-from the late Phoebe H. Hearst in 1894, now carried on through the
-generosity of her son William Randolph Hearst, with present quarters on
-the second floor of the recreation building. Now the library contains
-approximately 14,000 volumes. In the reading room are eighty
-periodicals, of which two are foreign. The close proximity of the high
-school enables the library to render valuable assistance to teachers and
-pupils.
-
-“A smoking room is provided for the men, and the children have an alcove
-for their particular use, provided with low tables and suitable chairs.
-One end of the stack room is used for mineral exhibits, especially the
-minerals of the Black Hills region.
-
-“The Kindergarten, opened in 1900, is also maintained by the generosity
-of the Hearst family.
-
-“A small, but well kept park nearby provides a place for outdoor play
-during the summer months. The kindergarten has been an inestimable aid
-to the public school by giving the children of foreign birth a start in
-the English language and teaching them something of American ways and
-manners, thus relieving them of the handicap resulting from their
-foreign parentage. It has also proved a large factor in Americanizing
-the parents by both direct and indirect contact with the teachers.
-
-“The Homestake company, supporting a liberal policy toward the schools,
-feels that it is fully repaid by the stabilizing influence on its
-working force, due to the fact that men with families are attracted to
-Lead on account of its educational advantages. Many of the young men who
-are now holding important positions in the shops, mills, assay and
-engineering departments are graduates of the Lead High School.
-
-                   [Illustration: Old Mine Entrances]
-
-“The Homestake Recreation Building, built and equipped by the Homestake
-Mining Company at a cost of $250,000 was opened to the public in 1914.
-It is a three story brick and stone structure of the latest design and
-well lighted, heated, and ventilated. No expense is spared to make this
-the recreation place of the employes and their families, and all
-residents of Lead are given the same privileges as employes, so that it
-is a community house in the fullest sense. No membership fee is charged.
-Everybody is welcome and all are treated as special guests by the
-attendants. The only rules posted are those governing the length of time
-one set of players may use the various tables and games, and specifying
-the days when the men, women, and children may use the plunge. The
-average monthly attendance is about 25,000.
-
-“On the first floor of the building is a large rest room furnished with
-easy chairs and lounges with tables for chess, cards, and other games,
-and directly in the rear of this room is the billiard room, with two
-regulation billiard and two pocket billiard tables. In alcoves of the
-rest room are three tables for children between the ages of six and
-sixteen. About 2,500 persons play on these tables during the month.
-
-                         [Illustration: Mucking
-                             April 21, 1933
-                          Homestake Mining Co.
-                   Working in the gold mines at Lead]
-
-“Below the rest room is the gymnasium and a bowling alley of six alleys
-equipped with automatic pin setters. Over 2,000 persons use these alleys
-each month, including the ladies who have one day each week. The
-gymnasium is well equipped, and is also used by two bands as a practice
-room.
-
-“In the rear of the rest room, and with a separate street entrance is a
-well furnished theatre with a seating capacity of 1,000. Moving pictures
-are shown both afternoon and evening, with road shows and vaudeville
-when available. The average monthly attendance is about 20,000.
-
- [Illustration: A view in the cyanide plant of the gold mining plant at
-                                 Lead]
-
-“Under the theatre auditorium and directly in the rear of the bowling
-alley is a tank 25×75 feet with a depth of water ranging from 4 to 9
-feet. The plunge and floor are lined with white tile. Change rooms,
-shower baths, and hair driers are provided for the bathers. The water is
-heated, filtered, disinfected, and changed frequently. The plunge is
-patronized by approximately 1800 persons per month, about equally
-divided among men, women, girls, and boys.
-
-“A small room called the sun room, because of its particularly sunny
-exposure, is used as a meeting place by various clubs, societies, and
-committees.
-
-“There is no charge for the use of any part of the building to Homestake
-employees and their families, or to residents of Lead, except for the
-theatre where a nominal charge is made to cover the cost of pictures and
-other attractions.
-
-“The company erected at a cost of more than $60,000 a thoroughly modern
-brick hospital of thirty-five bed capacity which furnishes absolutely
-free to its employees and their dependents every type of medical,
-surgical and obstetric treatment. No charge is made for any hospital
-care, operating fees, or for medicines.
-
-“The employees and dependents make very great use of this service as
-shown by the 1922 annual report. Forty-three thousand people were taken
-care of in the dispensary, fourteen thousand visits were made at the
-homes and one hundred forty-three confinements were handled.”
-
-The Homestake Employees Aid association is an organization to help the
-employees. Also:
-
-“The company retires its old employees on account of old age, physical
-disability, giving them 25% of last year’s full pay plus $10.00 per year
-for each year’s service with the company, but in all not to exceed $600
-per year.
-
-“There were 64 men (1928) receiving pensions of from $350 to $600 per
-year. The average age of those receiving pensions, at the time of
-retirement was over 65 and the average years service is nearly
-thirty-one.
-
-        [Illustration: Weighing Gold Bricks in the assay office]
-
-“A pension is also paid to the widows of new men who lost their lives by
-accident prior to the enactment of the state compensation law.
-
-“Every effort is made, both in the mine and in the surface plants to
-provide sanitary working conditions. Bubbling drinking fountains are
-placed in convenient places both underground and in the mills and shops,
-and provided with clear, cold, wholesome water. Clean, well heated and
-ventilated change rooms are provided with hot and cold water and
-individual lockers for clothes. A special underground latrine is used in
-the mine. Ventilation of the underground workings is carefully
-supervised.
-
-“Seventy-five per cent of the Homestake employees are English speaking
-nationalities. In the other twenty-five Italians predominate.
-
-“Many religious denominations are represented in Lead, and most of them
-have an organization and a place of worship. The Homestake company makes
-a yearly contribution of $200 to each church holding regular services,
-and renders other material aid in various ways.”
-
-                      [Illustration: Tourist Camp]
-
-Thus we see that South Dakota, and more specifically Lead has an
-industry not only of enormous size but with the most modern and
-progressive practices known to civilization. A trip through it is enough
-to stimulate the imagination rather decisively of anyone mechanically or
-industrially inclined. Here is an organization whose social, industrial,
-mechanical, and personnel organization is worked out and administered on
-modern scientific principles, with the interests and safety of its
-employees ever in the fore.
-
-From the mine we go up the hill through Lead to “Mile High Camp,” where
-we eat lunch. This camp is a very nice camp of little earlier date than
-some of the others. Jubilee camp on the West branch of U. S. 85, just on
-the edge of town is another good camp. It is situated on a very high
-point, overlooking Lead on one side and beautiful tree covered
-mountains, cliffs and valleys, on the other.
-
-We follow U. S. 85 toward Cheyenne Crossing and Newcastle. The road
-leads through Icebox Canyon. This canyon was properly named. Even on
-this hot July day it is very decidedly cool. In addition, it is a
-beautiful drive. The tall stately pines have almost a noble look to
-them.
-
-The road leads over long gradual grades, up hills and through valleys.
-There are camps and cabins along this route, and the trout fishing is
-good. Icebox Springs, is a very cold spring six miles from Lead and 6270
-feet above sea level. Here we get a drink of clear, cold water,
-maintained as such without the aid of refrigeration. The spring pours
-right out of the side of the canyon. Terry Peak, within 200 feet of the
-same height as Harney, rises a short distance from the trail.
-
-This again is historical ground. In the early days the Deadwood-Cheyenne
-stage and treasure coaches traveled over this route. Here were the
-scenes of the early hold-ups, fights with bandits, and murders of the
-stage people.
-
-Here was the testing ground of civilization. To see the present Black
-Hills one could hardly believe that less than fifty years ago it went
-through the wild formative period of outlawry, Indian fighting, and the
-gold rush. Cheyenne Crossing is but a couple of small cabins, a sort of
-outpost. Here we turn about and return to “Pine Crest.”
-
-From Lead we take the old mines road back to Deadwood. This leaves town
-near Jubilee camp, making a loop to the north. Along the road, just out
-of Lead are cabins variously named: “Travellers Rest,” “Tramp Inn,”
-“Saloon,” “Bucket o’Blood,” “Haven of Rest,” etc.
-
-Along this road we see remains of old placer mines, mining mills, and
-various other remains of early mining. Most of them are now abandoned.
-Nevertheless one can imagine the life that must have been enacted here a
-few decades ago. Central City, and other former thriving cities are now
-but vestiges of what was once the splendor of Deadwood Gulch. Now, only
-an occasional inhabitant and a number of run down buildings remain.
-
-It is almost marvelous to think that a country could pass from the
-extreme of an outlaw West to the highly modern civilization that Lead
-and Deadwood present today. No place on earth but the progressive
-pioneer western community with its fertile and indomitable brains could
-do it.
-
-At the camp that night part of the crowd of the previous night is
-present, and quite a number of new people. Another very enjoyable
-evening is spent.
-
-                         [Illustration: Cabin]
-
-[Illustration: Deadwood, today. Located in Deadwood Gulch. Scene of the
-                  most exciting of Gold Rush Episodes]
-
-
-
-
-                              CHAPTER XII
-                                Deadwood
-
-
-In Deadwood, the next morning we take our way to the Franklin Hotel,
-then south, over the railroad tracks to Mt. Moriah Cemetery. We are now,
-indeed on historic ground. Probably it would be well to reiterate some
-of the setting before going up to the cemetery to view the resting place
-of the famous early characters.
-
-Deadwood was settled in 1876. When gold was discovered here
-approximately 25,000 people rushed for Deadwood. Rumor, brought to us
-through the years, says that within twenty-four hours after the city of
-Custer heard of the Deadwood gold discovery its population had decreased
-from between six and ten thousand to less than a hundred people. They
-left on horseback, on foot, by ox team, by stage, and by wagon, taking
-camping and mining equipment with them, and stores of food.
-
-        [Illustration: Richard Wm. Clark, and his original cabin
-                                                             Bell Photo]
-
-Deadwood was transformed from a gulch full of dead timber to a lawless
-city. The one aim of everybody was gold. Some got it in the thousands of
-industrious mining projects, most of them one man or a few men placer
-mines. Some got it by selling food and supplies, some got it by
-gambling, and some by robberies. Deadwood was in a state of wild chaos.
-
-Preacher Smith, or Henry Weston Smith “drifted in” about this time. He
-had come from the East with the Custer gold rush and had migrated north
-to Deadwood, on foot, at the time of the discovery and boom there. He
-preached in the street mostly. He was a Methodist, about forty years of
-age, and of fine physique, quiet and unassuming.
-
-                      [Illustration: Deadwood Dick
-                                                             Bell Photo]
-
-          [Illustration: The Roosevelt Monument near Deadwood]
-
-On August 20, 1876, Smith started for Crook City to preach a sermon. He
-left a note that he would be back at 3:00 P. M. if God were willing. But
-God had planned otherwise. The Indians killed him on the way. His body
-was discovered soon afterward and was brought to Deadwood. His remains
-now rest in Mt. Moriah Cemetery above Deadwood, while his monument
-stands near where he was killed.
-
-Wild Bill came to Deadwood in June, 1876. He was not, as his name might
-indicate, a desperado, but rather a refined enforcer of law and order.
-His full name was James Butler Hicock. He had married a widow whose
-husband had been shot while attempting to prevent some desperadoes from
-forcing an entrance to his wagon show. Wild Bill travelled with the show
-to protect it and finally married the widow. With the gold rush he was
-drawn to Deadwood. His wife remained in Cheyenne.
-
-Wild Bill earned his name by his expert pistol shooting. Before coming
-to the Black Hills he had been employed as a government scout, as a
-hunter of horse thieves, and as a gunman law enforcer. He had been hired
-by Abilene, Kansas, at $1,000 a month to clean up the town, and later by
-Ft. Hayes for the same purpose. His speed on the draw saved his life
-many times.
-
-      [Illustration: An Enjoyable drive along a Black Hills Creek]
-
-The law respecting faction in Deadwood finally decided to organize some
-form of local government. They did so and Wild Bill was suggested for
-chief of police. The rougher lawless element notified him that he would
-be shot if he did not leave town. His friends tried to get him to leave,
-but he was determined to stay. A notorious outlaw stole quietly through
-the side door of a saloon where Bill was playing cards, drew his gun,
-and shot Bill through the back of the head, killing him instantly. The
-assassin was tried by his friends, acquitted, and permitted to leave the
-state. He was soon re-arrested, convicted, and hanged.
-
-                       [Illustration: Wedge Rock]
-
-Wild Bill is Deadwood’s idol. On his gun at the time of his death there
-were thirty-six notches all alleged to have been in self defences and
-law enforcement. His remains, too, are interred in Mt. Moriah Cemetery.
-A Johnny Riordian chiseled statues of Preacher Smith and Wild Bill both
-of which now stand at the head of their respective graves.
-
-Calamity Jane (Martha Jane Cannary) was a woman whose life was
-interwoven with the early history of the Black Hills. She was an army
-scout with General Crook, and later a desperate and notorious character
-as well as an idol of the region. Her life story is not that of a
-self-respecting woman, and yet her ideals in her attitude toward her
-fellow beings were very high. She was always ready to share her money
-and provisions with those who needed it. She fought Indians and
-desperadoes as unflinchingly as any man. Her aim saved many a man’s
-life, especially from the Indians. Once she had to hold up a store to
-obtain groceries for a family who were very ill and out of money. After
-the family were nursed back to health Jane went on her way.
-
-Calamity Jane had a deep reverence and respect for Wild Bill. Her dying
-request was that she be buried beside him, and there, today, her grave
-is to be found. Her funeral was the largest Deadwood has ever seen.
-
-Not only Deadwood but thousands of visitors climb this hill to visit the
-shrine of these three early idols.
-
-Now we proceed up the hill to the cemetery. A good driver might pilot
-his car up and down later with comparative safety, but the hill is very
-steep, and ascent by foot might be more advisable.
-
-The cemetery proper is located on the slope of a mountain, high up,
-overlooking the city of Deadwood. From the cemetery a path takes us
-higher and higher, to the very peak of the mountain, one mile and six
-feet high. The peak is of bare white rocks, and is so named, “White
-Rocks.” It is over 700 feet higher than the city. The view from here is
-remarkable. Hills, valleys, mountains, and cities are visible from the
-peak on clear days. Here is a worth while mountain climb, possible for
-everyone.
-
-After descending from the cemetery we cross Deadwood Gulch right on main
-street beside the Franklin hotel. We take a steep street on the opposite
-(north) side, and follow a winding road up Mt. Roosevelt. The road is
-steep and precipitous, winding and none too wide, though cars can pass
-almost any place with a matter of inches to spare. The lower part of the
-road is good, up to the foot-path. But from there up, if one wishes to
-go by car the driver requires some skill, a good horn, and well adjusted
-brakes. With a little patience, and a few hazardous looks down the steep
-mountain sides we reach the summit. If the foot path is taken the trip
-is shorter and less hazardous. These mountain paths are excellent for
-exercise, believe it if you can, or try it.
-
-The view from Mt. Roosevelt is probably as good or better than from any
-other elevation in the Black Hills. With field glasses on a clear day
-one may see four states from here. On the topmost peak of the mountain
-stands a monument, the first ever erected in honor of Theodore
-Roosevelt. It is, we are told, erected in the environment and among the
-scenes that Roosevelt loved. Visitors are requested to leave their
-autographs in a visitor’s book within the tower. One precaution, do not
-pick a cold cloudy day to visit Mt. Roosevelt.
-
-After the return to Deadwood we must by all means spend some time in
-this metropolis of the interior of the “Hills.” The gold rush days are
-not much in evidence. Deadwood is a modern city and a thriving business
-center. The stores, curio shops, and souvenir sellers invite our
-curiosity, and are likely to hold us for sometime. The remains of mines,
-the slag heaps from smelting days, and the open mine shafts are indeed
-curiosities. While in Deadwood we must not forget the fine municipal
-bathing pool and park.
-
-Here again we might take the Boulder Canyon road or leave it as an
-unseen point of interest.
-
-
-
-
-                              CHAPTER XIII
-                  Pactola, Silver City and Camp Wanzer
-
-
-The bed is a welcome place after the mountain climbing. Somehow the
-meals and rest afterward add to the satisfaction of these invigorating
-and inspirational tramps.
-
-After three enjoyable nights at Pine Crest we leave for the central part
-of the Hills. We take S. D. 85 to the left, just before entering
-Deadwood. The road is an excellent, improved highway, bordered by
-interesting scenery.
-
-           [Illustration: Lights and Shadows Among the Pines
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-We start the trip with an upward climb of six and a half miles. This has
-a tendency somehow to warm up the motor a bit. Now we follow a mountain
-top trail. The scenery is beautiful as we skim along over good roads
-with gentle grades. In places the trees are thick, in other places thin.
-There are pines, cottonwood, aspen, spruce, and others. In places forest
-fires have left a devastated appearance. These sights leave with one a
-feeling of sadness, that carelessness and destruction must claim these
-great potentialities of usefulness and beauty. They leave with us a
-deeper resolve to “Put out campfires before leaving them.”
-
-It is thirty-one miles to Pactola on Rapid Creek. Just after we cross
-the creek and before crossing the railroad we turn to the right,
-following the creek, and drive up to Silver City. As near as we can find
-out they do not mine silver here. The place is a group of log cabins and
-is used for a summer resort. It is a beautiful little place.
-
-                       [Illustration: A Log Cabin
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-Going up the creek we take a winding road, almost a path. Along this
-road are many church and other camps. We come to Camp Wanzer a few miles
-beyond Silver City in Bear Canyon.
-
-Camp Wanzer is not a tuberculosis camp. It is a camp for building up
-physically run-down children. No one with tuberculosis or other
-communicable disease is admitted. The plan is to have the children live
-out here away from vices and irregularities of city life, where proper
-hours, food, exercise and supervision may build up their run-down
-bodies. The records show remarkable results. Children are required to
-rise at a certain time, observe exercise periods, rest periods, to eat
-wholesome meals at regular times and to sleep enough each night. They
-have a nice swimming hole, too. The children enjoy the vacation. They
-are kept for three to six weeks, and in practically every case leave
-there stronger and happier than when they came. A person is highly
-impressed with what this camp means to these children. There were
-fifty-five there in 1928. Children come from all parts of the state.
-Parents pay for it where they can and the Christmas seals sale pays for
-the rest. After seeing where our Christmas seal proceeds go we are ever
-so much more willing and even anxious to contribute to the fund.
-
-We again follow a beautiful mountain stream, Spring Creek, through
-Sheridan and down to Hill City. Along the road we find some real rock
-cliffs running up several hundred feet and we can here see the plan of
-the rock layers, thrown in, tilted on edge, the formation which is
-general throughout the Black Hills. At Sheridan there is a good looking
-tourist camp, including cabins.
-
-
-
-
-                              CHAPTER XIV
-                         Hill City and Keystone
-
-
-We put up for the night in one of the Hill City cabins. These are not in
-some ways as nice as some of the others, but are very comfortable
-nevertheless. We must try the cabins by all means while in the Hills.
-Most of them cost a dollar a night. In them, generally are a bed or two,
-a cook stove, table and cooking utensils, with possibly other
-conveniences including stove wood.
-
-Hill City is in the heart of the Black Hills. It has excellent
-connections with various cities, fishing grounds and places of scenic
-interest. Sylvan Lake is nine miles distant, Rapid City 20, Deadwood 40,
-Custer 15 and the Game Lodge 27. Hill City is only a small place, but it
-is an “up and coming” progressive little town. They believe in
-advertising, and a few of its citizens are rather farsighted in their
-attitude toward visitors. The tourist park is not like some of the rest,
-but it affords shelter and many conveniences. In a few years it will be
-coming to the front.
-
-We have not been in Hill City long before the “filling station
-information bureau” tell us that no trip to the Hills is complete
-without a visit to the Keystone mines and Rushmore Mountain. So, for
-them we start. Keystone is about ten miles from Hill City. We leave town
-at the north end, over the railroad tracks, headed due east. The road is
-very, very winding. It follows the valley of Battle Creek, going up and
-down over small hills, tributary springs and streams, and around rocks.
-It crosses the railroad no less than sixteen times in the ten miles, two
-times under the track.
-
-Covering the entire road and surface of the hills is a layer of powdered
-mica. One must pinch himself to see if he is actually living and awake
-and not riding along over the streets of gold in the hereafter. Maybe
-some of us had better take a good look, for our streets in the next life
-may be of coal dust or cinders.
-
-                    [Illustration: White Tail Buck]
-
-We stop along the road to collect a few specimens of the rocks of this
-vicinity. We hope that we may pick up some rose colored quartz, the rock
-that is most popular for decorative purposes in the “Hills.” Here an
-unexpected pleasure awaits us. A young fawn is standing across the
-ravine watching us innocently. When we discover it we cannot help
-turning to stare, rapt in wonder. Soon a doe, then another, and behind
-them two bucks and more emerge from a thicket. One of the bucks raises
-his front foot and points his muzzle toward us. The whole herd turn and
-bound gracefully out of sight. It is a scene that will long remain in
-our memories.
-
-Trout fishing is good in Battle Creek and Slate Creek on the other side
-of Hill City.
-
-Just before reaching Keystone we turn up a side road to the right. We
-come to two very impressive log houses. These, we decide, are just the
-type we would like to build for ourselves. We drive in and ask the man
-in the yard what a house like that would cost. Imagine our chagrin when
-he tells us the houses belong to the millionaire owner of the Etta
-Lithia Mine, one of the larger mines of the Hills. The large house is
-the house in which the owner lives for two weeks each summer.
-
-It cost $6,000, we are told. On the inside we find all sorts of fishing
-and other sporting equipment. There is a beautiful hardwood floor in the
-house, running spring water, soft rain water from a cistern, a fireplace
-in each room, rustic furniture with bark still on, and even twin beds.
-
-The other cabin is only slightly less in finish and equipment, it being
-the residence of the manager of the mine. The owner lives in New Jersey.
-The sight of these is highly inspirational to those who appreciate this
-sort of life.
-
-Upon invitation of the manager we go up into the hills to the mine. The
-road is well improved; it must be to carry the great truck loads of ore
-in all kinds of weather. After a little driving we round a bend in the
-road and gaze upon a great ridge of white quartz, probably nearly a
-hundred feet high. As one gazes at it he ponders upon the enormous
-potential wealth of this heap, if it could be put to use. Rumor tells us
-that a glass factory for the Black Hills is not out of reason and will
-probably soon be a reality.
-
-At present this quartz is an undesirable stuff which must be separated
-from the mineral and piled into great scrap heaps. We climb the slope to
-the top of the ridge where a tunnel leads to the open cut spodumene
-mine.
-
-But before going to the top we might look into the opening of the old
-underground mine.
-
-A narrow gauge railroad runs into the tunnel. A warning is posted
-against the entrance. A gaze into the tunnel however, makes one think
-the walls are lined with gold. But on closer examination the gold turns
-out to be mica in very fine flakes.
-
-On the top of the quartz pile, just outside the top tunnel or the one
-from the open cut another narrow gauge railroad takes the quartz to the
-end of the dump pile in small ore cars. Following the short tunnel
-through a hill we come to the mine proper. It is just a huge hole in the
-ground, not now worked, from which the ore was taken with dynamite,
-picks, shovels and derricks. The useful ore, valued at about fifty
-dollars a ton, stands in the layers of quartz and granite at a tipsy
-angle, like huge tree trunks of pure white. The sight is really worth
-seeing. Spodumene is a substance resembling grained rock embedded in
-quartz and mica but soft enough to be crushed in the hand. It is raised
-from the cut, emptied into cars and carried through the tunnel where it
-is dumped into a long chute. When the chute gets filled up, trucks back
-under the gate at the lower end, fill up with the mineral and take it to
-the railroad cars at Keystone. From here it is shipped east, where
-lithium oxide is made of it for storage batteries.
-
-Going from the Etta Mine up, over the next rise, we come to the Juga
-Feldspar Mine. This, too, is an open cut mine in the top of a mountain.
-
-The feldspar, used for enamel in lining bathtubs and making dishes, is
-found, mined, loaded and shipped much as is the lithia. Valuable
-by-products of the mine, mica, tourmaline and lepidolite and others are
-found in small quantities.
-
-Back through the valley we go and up the opposite slope to a mica mine.
-This, too, is an open cut, the men working in the shade of a large
-tarpaulin awning. Slabs of mica varying from small scraps to large
-sheets are all loaded in the chute, hauled to Keystone and shipped east.
-
- [Illustration: Rushmore Mountain, near Keystone. Upon the abrupt face
-   of this mountain Borglum, the sculptor, is carving the Statues of
-              Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Roosevelt
-                                         Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.]
-
-We go down from the mines and take a winding road up to Rushmore
-Mountain. On the way we try fishing. Here one of the most exasperating
-experiences of the trip takes place. I peered into the clear stream and
-spied a beautiful speckled beauty of somewhat larger than average
-proportion. Carefully I sent a fly up to him, but he was not interested.
-I tried every fly I had with the same result. Then I sent him a nice,
-fresh, green grasshopper, then a yellow one. Mr. Trout never batted an
-eye. I then offered him a frog leg. He only wagged his tail as though
-amused. The last resort was a nice juicy worm. I trailed it down the
-stream until it bumped him on the nose. That dumb trout was too lazy to
-even open his mouth. Possibly I misjudge him. He may have just had
-lunch, but at any rate he should have shown some interest in an extra
-bite. Well, I decided that if he was going to have his laugh on me, I’d
-get even with him.
-
-I took my fishing rod and gave him a real poke in the ribs. I had the
-satisfaction of seeing him wake up rather hurriedly and disappear
-upstream.
-
-On the way up to Rushmore we see a large leaning rock with a tree
-growing out of the top of it. This is only one of the phenomena of the
-“Hills” that fires the curiosity of the visitor.
-
-The road up to Rushmore is on a mountain facing the one being carved. It
-is steep and winding. Cars go up several miles, but it is quite a climb.
-At the top is a long cable over which supplies are transported to the
-top of Rushmore. The carving is just begun. It has been discontinued for
-lack of funds, much to the regret of the people of the “Hills” and of
-South Dakota. If the work is finished it will be a monument of no mean
-calibre and a shrine for tourists. We did not take the footpath to the
-top, though such can be done. By climbing the steep precipitous crags
-facing it one gets a remarkable view of the grand and majestic bald
-peak.
-
-From Rushmore we go on to Keystone. On the road we see abandoned gold
-mines and some still running. Within the town we come to the Keystone
-Consolidated Mines. At present they operate three gold mines with the
-main mill, the Columbia, the Keystone and the Holy Terror. Two stories
-are told of the naming of the last. One is that its inaccessibility
-clear up in the mountain top is responsible. The other is that the
-discoverer’s wife insisted that he name the mine after her. The miner
-went to take out his claim and when he returned he answered, to his
-wife’s insistent queries, “yes, he had named the mine after her,” and he
-showed her the papers.
-
-Going on through Keystone we stop at a miner’s house, and he shows us
-many kinds of ore including tin, tourmaline, spodumene, copper, topaz,
-several kinds of quartz, gold, ruby studded rocks and so on. We cross
-the creek then and pick up our own specimens of rubies.
-
-Now we go back to Hill City and from there up a long gradual incline
-into the most noted scenic spot of the Black Hills.
-
-                   [Illustration: Rugged Formations]
-
-
-
-
-                               CHAPTER XV
-            Needles Road, Sylvan Lake, Harney and the Gorge
-
-
-The road winds through the needle rocks, amid beautifully vegetated
-valleys and mountains to Sylvan Lake.
-
-   [Illustration: Cathedral Spires. Granite peaks in the Black Hills
-                                                            Lease Photo]
-
-These roads are the much talked of feats of engineering skill. We can
-easily see why they are so considered. No barrier, no matter how
-formidable has proved indominable. In some places the road is merely a
-shelf on the side of a mountain. The rock is blasted out and the nice
-wide road, the perfect replica of our modern prairie highways, surfaced,
-is superimposed upon it. Slopes are gradual, the road wide enough for
-safety anywhere, and every other means of convenience to motorists has
-been considered. In one place there are possibly a half dozen
-switchbacks making it possible for a person to ascend a high mountain by
-gradual ascent on the shelf-like road, switchback and ascend more,
-almost straight above the road over which he has just come. You can look
-over the brink of the chasm and see several laps of the road up which
-you have come, and can look above and see the shelves built up there,
-over which you are to go before you reach the top. Marvelous, indeed,
-are the means that man through the divine guidance of a higher Being, we
-are forced to believe, has devised for overcoming the seemingly
-impossible problems. And the view from the road is marvelous. The great
-majestic stone mountains, the broad, deep, beautiful valleys, the swift
-tumbling mountains streams, fed by mountain springs, the so-called
-Needles, and last the sense of conquering all these, affords a feeling
-almost beyond description to the soul of the traveler.
-
-       [Illustration: The “Needles Highway” in Custer State Park]
-
-           [Illustration: The Switchback on the Needles Road
-             A highway among the Needles of the Black Hills
-                                                             Rise Photo]
-
-                [Illustration: Stop on Needles Highway]
-
-               [Illustration: Through Iron Creek Tunnel]
-
-           [Illustration: Sylvan Lake, as you round the turn]
-
-             [Illustration: A Horseshoe Turn, Needles Road
-                                                                  Lease]
-
-We drive down through heavily wooded roads to the lake, the most widely
-advertised place in the Black Hills. Sylvan Lake is about a half mile in
-length, located right in the top of the mountains. It owes its size to
-the fact that its north end is made up of a dam filling the gorge
-through which the water tumbled in its course from its mountain streams,
-through Sunday Gulch to Spring Creek.
-
-              [Illustration: Sylvan Lake, and the Cliffs]
-
-The lake is a beautiful one, bounded by tall, cold, gray stones,
-majestically reaching for the sky, and fringed with luxuriant forest
-trees. On one side of the lake is the Sylvan Lake Hotel and on the other
-side is the camp grounds. The Indians have named the lake “Karanip” or
-“Tear of the Mountain.” We go directly to the camp grounds and get
-settled for the night. The camp is not overequipped with conveniences,
-but is nevertheless a good camp, with a little store conveniently close.
-
-                       [Illustration: The Swans]
-
-We go to bed early so that we may get up early for the ascent of Harney
-Peak. Even with the early retiring three A. M. comes rather soon. But we
-are all life as soon as we awaken and we lose no time. Well shod we
-begin the ascent. This is to be an event. The climb covers three miles
-and a half. You’ll be ready to agree with me after making it, though
-these Black Hills people are very generous in the size of their miles.
-We start up the road marked “Harney Peak.” We could take our car part
-way, but the short distance and rough road makes this a poor policy.
-
-We soon come to the stables where burros and ponies can be hired by
-those not wishing to make the trip on foot. These are not for the early
-or the ambitious. We pass them by.
-
-                [Illustration: Reflection at Sylvan Lake
-                                                                Stevens]
-
-The path soon begins to ascend. Progress becomes slower. The perfect
-road narrows into a footpath cut through the timber.
-
-           [Illustration: Cathedral Spires, from Harney Peak
-                                                             Rise Photo]
-
-       [Illustration: Harney Peak, Lookout Station, and Peak Inn
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-Up, up we go. At places the timber clears, giving us a grand view of the
-surrounding country. Then we plunge into the forest again and continue
-up, up, up. At the end of a mile or so we top a ridge and are relieved
-to begin descending into a shallow valley. This is a rest and
-encouraging. At the bottom of the valley is a brooklet of clear spring
-water. Here we take a drink before continuing our ascent.
-
-                        [Illustration: Peak Inn
-                                                            Beard Photo]
-
-Now we begin a real climb. The path is easy and open and the slope is
-gradual. But even at that it begins to tax one’s muscles. Squirrels and
-chipmunks dart across the path and gaze at the intruders from a safe
-perch in the trees. And some of these trees are giants, probably the
-largest found in the Hills. Springs arise here and there along the way.
-Beautiful flowers dot the path. Great gray rocks jut into the air at
-intervals. The path is indeed interesting. The coolness of the forest
-adds to its entrancing powers.
-
-      [Illustration: Another View of Harney Peak Look-out Station
-                                                         Photo by Beard]
-
-By and by the path grows steeper and we begin to take a switchback
-course up, up, up. Finally the vegetation thins out and the surface is
-mostly rock. We climb the rocks and at last emerge at the foot of a
-ladder leading up the crags where the fire lookout house is located. Up
-the ladder we go, and over the rocks toward the top. We catch a glimpse
-of the ranger giving us a dirty look as he hurriedly finishes his
-breakfast and makes up his bed. We give him plenty of time, while we
-gaze in four directions at the remarkable panorama extending a hundred
-miles before us. The sun, which we had expected to see rising, is
-smiling indulgently at us from far up in the sky. To the west we see
-Sylvan Hotel, mountains and forests. Turning toward the south we find
-ourselves looking at the historical Custer and on past into Wyoming.
-Far, far, to the south is the border of the hills. Closer are the
-Needles and Cathedral Spires and Mt. Coolidge. On to the east, fifty
-miles away and more, are the Badlands. Closer Mt. Rushmore sticks up its
-head as do various other bald heads. Away off to the northeast Bear
-Butte stands alone and to his left are Roosevelt Peak, Terry Peak and
-many of our other friends.
-
-    [Illustration: The Cliffs, Below Harney Peak, Sylvan Lake, S.D.]
-
-               [Illustration: One way of climbing Harney]
-
-The view is nothing short of wonderful on a clear day, but is not as
-good when the clouds float below us or when the air is filled with mist.
-We go on up to the lookout station and register. Of course, we must ask
-the ranger our share of foolish questions. We would not be human if we
-did not display our ignorance up here. We just naturally feel that we
-must ask some kind of a question to commemorate the fact that we are up
-here.
-
-We are now on the highest point in the Black Hills. Not only this, it is
-the highest point in the state and greater still, the highest point in
-the United States east of the Rocky Mountains. We are 7,244 feet above
-sea level and about a thousand feet above Sylvan Lake. This little house
-away up on the top of a rock looks pretty frail beside the boulders upon
-which it stands. One would think that a breeze would blow it over the
-precipice hundreds of feet straight down. The house, though, is pretty
-well established, with heavy steel cables firmly rooting it to its
-place. Even at that, they’d better not hire a forest ranger up there who
-walks in his sleep.
-
-              [Illustration: Airplane View of Harney Peak
-                                                             Rise Photo]
-
-        [Illustration: Looking Down the Gorge below Sylvan Lake]
-
-                 [Illustration: Farther down the Gorge]
-
-We are given a card telling us that in the “Harney National Forest
-20,000,000 board feet of lumber is harvested annually and through
-reforestation about 1,587,667,000 board feet are maintained permanently.
-12,000 horses and cattle and 4,000 sheep graze on the forest annually.
-The area (net) is 508,000,057 acres. The annual revenue to the United
-States is $80,000 and to local counties $20,000. Summer sites may be
-secured from the Supervisor at Custer, S. D.”
-
-The lookout away up here is for the purpose of spotting forest fires.
-
-In the little house are instruments for seeing and exactly locating
-fires. By getting the exact angle of fires from two different stations
-and telephoning the results its location may be determined exactly by
-drawing a line at these angles from their respective stations. The fire
-would be where the lines crossed.
-
-        [Illustration: Guardian of the Pools, Sylvan Lake, S.D.]
-
-               [Illustration: A Canyon in the Black Hills
-                                                                  Lease]
-
-               [Illustration: Reception Room, Sylvan Lake
-                                                          O’Neill Photo]
-
-Well, we are the first up there this morning and now we prepare to
-descend. We start down the rocks and meet several people coming up,
-they, too, thinking they had been first up this morning. We must take a
-few pictures before going down to convince the folks at home that we’ve
-climbed Harney.
-
-      [Illustration: Dining Room, Sylvan Lake Hotel, Custer, S.D.
-                                                                  Lease]
-
-               [Illustration: Sylvan Lake in the Winter]
-
-Down we go, down the ladder and around the corner to Peak Inn. Here
-refreshments and souvenirs may be procured. These have all been brought
-up the mountain by burroes at some little expense. An interesting trip,
-they tell us, is to make the return trip through Cathedral Spires. We,
-however, do not do this.
-
-The descent can be made in a little less time than the ascent. Some
-short cuts can be made directly across where contours and cutbacks had
-to be made going up. Going down is decidedly easier than going up. All
-the way down we meet puffing folks; some fat, some tall, some carrying
-babies, all asking the same question, “How much farther?” Many a good
-natured joke is exchanged on the way. We meet troopers as well as
-pedestrians. The former seem about as anxious to reach the top as those
-walking. Perhaps those experienced in riding burros and trail ponies
-understand the reason for this.
-
-             [Illustration: You Tell ’em we are Traveling.
-            Tobogganing. Winter Carnival, Sylvan Lake, S.D.
-                                                                  Lease]
-
-             [Illustration: Looking Down the Toboggan Slide
-                   Winter Carnival, Sylvan Lake S.D.
-                                                                  Lease]
-
-Seven miles, at least, the round trip is quite a hike, but for those who
-can stand it (and this includes most of us), it is by far the better
-method of going up. Each one who makes it feels proud of the
-accomplishment. One boy about seven years of age remarked, “By Gawsh, I
-didn’t need to make it on any donkey. My own feet are good enough for
-me.” Well, we finally come to the stables again. We have met possibly
-fifty people going up and more are just starting. Some burros are all
-saddled and bridled, sleepily waiting for the start. Temptation prompts
-us to mount for a picture, even though our friends do insist on asking,
-“Now which is which?”
-
-[Illustration: The Needles Highway. This is indeed a feat of engineering]
-
-We arrive back in camp about five hours after we had started up.
-Pancakes, bacon and eggs are awaiting us. The question “are we hungry?”
-is a mild way of putting it. Food seems to disappear like magic, not
-just a little but great quantities of it. This little stroll seems to
-make one ravenously hungry and we derive genuine satisfaction from this
-meal. Somehow our fatigue seems to be appeased with our hunger.
-
- [Illustration: “The Switchback” along the “Needles Highway” in Custer
-                              State Park]
-
-Now we are ready for an inspection of the lake and its surroundings. The
-swans are the first things that draw our attention. They are beautiful,
-floating over the silvery surface.
-
-Many are the fishermen trying for croppies and trout from the edge of
-the lake. Some have substantial strings of fish, too.
-
-                [Illustration: Custer State Park Highway
-               A typical scene along the Needles Highway]
-
-We take our leisurely way around the lake and find dozens of cars before
-the hotel. We join the group who are inspecting the souvenir shop and
-the hotel lobby. Both are interesting; both containing many curios from
-the hills. The hotel is especially interesting, and we must by all means
-take a meal with its charming host and hostess. We now go back through a
-slit in a rock to the gorge behind the dam. The first thing we see and
-hear is the water gurgling out of Gorge Springs and over the dam. From
-here we pick our way over the great boulders to the precipice where the
-water tumbles into the narrow gorge. What boy or girl or grownup is not
-thrilled by the descent, sometimes on foot, sometimes dangling sometimes
-crawling between huge rocks (the largest in the hills) sometimes leaping
-chasms, through dark holes around seemingly blind bends, finally
-emerging on the rocks far below, without having fallen off the rocks or
-getting our feet wet. Oh boy! it’s certainly great. We are now in the
-home of the elves. We can follow the stream down, down, until our view
-opens out far to the north.
-
-We pick our way back and take a new route far up through the crags,
-towering above Sylvan Lake. Here again we get a marvelous view of the
-surrounding territory. Reluctantly we descend again, only to climb the
-crags on the opposite side of the gorge. Down again, we find our muscles
-getting a trifle fatigued.
-
-                     [Illustration: A Needles Scene
-                                                           Canedy Photo]
-
-We go back to camp near evening, having eaten lunch in the gorge. Now we
-get our dinner. Needless to say we are ready for it. We have packed
-several days’ experiences into a day. And it has been a memorable day.
-We spend the night and then start over that world’s renowned Needles
-Highway. The entrance is made through a gigantic gateway of towering
-rocks. A huge tunnel is blasted through one rock.
-
-We must drive back to the wide ledge and park our car while we gaze over
-the edge of the precipice and past the great valleys to the high
-mountains of stone Needles in all directions. The view is indeed one to
-remember. The feeling of the grandeur of nature that this leaves with us
-is something that lives with us forever.
-
-We pass on over this remarkable road cut through the mountain tops. The
-Needles Highway is all it is reputed to be. But one must take it slowly
-and stop to admire it to fully appreciate it.
-
-                    [Illustration: A Pleasant Drive]
-
-
-
-
-                              CHAPTER XVI
-                                 Custer
-
-
-We go off to the left a few miles to the State Game Lodge. This is the
-famous Summer White House of President Coolidge. Before we reach it we
-see a fine group of elk along the road and another of deer. The latter
-bound gracefully into a thicket when we stop to watch them. Along this
-road are several tourist camps. Galena and the Game Lodge are the larger
-ones.
-
-           [Illustration: The Switchback on the Needles Road
-                                                             Rise Photo]
-
-                   [Illustration: One of the Tunnels]
-
-We will leave the game lodge and zoo, however, and take them in our
-return from Hot Springs. Accordingly we take trail 36 back to Custer,
-about twenty miles. A few miles before we come to Custer we find a tall
-stone shaft rising beside the road. A bronze plate attached to it tells
-us that this is a monument erected to the memory of Mrs. Anna D.
-Tallent, the first white woman in the Hills. To the right, down a lane a
-few rods is a reconstructed replica of the old Gordon Stockade. The
-saplings are driven into the ground, spiked on top, just as the old fort
-had been. Within the inclosure are a couple of buildings, one where the
-Tallents lived and one where other folks of the party had lived. French
-Creek flows just south of the stockade.
-
-Just when gold was discovered in the Hills is a question. Probably it
-was before 1850, or shortly thereafter. One tale runs that a party of
-sixteen left the California Trail at Fort Laramie in 1852 because
-friendly Indians reported gold in the Black Hills.
-
- [Illustration: Restoration of the old Gordon Stockade built to protect
-                      the people from the Indians]
-
-       [Illustration: Deer in the Forest Reserve in South Dakota]
-
-                        [Illustration: Buffalo]
-
-The men journeyed north, trying several places to mine for gold. They
-got small quantities until they finally ended up near Deadwood. There
-the quantity became greater, and the men were elated. Three of the men
-started back to tell the people at Salt Lake City of their good fortune.
-The remainder kept on prospecting. One day one of those remaining went
-out to shoot a deer for meat. Upon his return the camp was in flames and
-the scalps of his comrades dangled at the ends of poles carried by the
-Indians. The man made sure that none of the party remained but himself,
-and he started out for the trail to the south. After terrible hardships,
-out of matches, with no ammunition left, living off berries and roots,
-he arrived at the trail too late for the last train of the season. His
-boots were soleless and his clothing in tatters. He hobbled on, and
-finally came almost at death’s door to a Mormon hunting party. They
-brought him slowly back to life and strength and he told them his story.
-
-      [Illustration: Record of early gold seekers in Black Hills,
-   1833-34—forty years before Custer’s expedition to the Hills. Stone
- found near Spearfish in 1887 and now in possession of State Historical
-                     Society, Pierre, South Dakota]
-
-The story of Ezra Kind is probably true. His Sandstone Carved with a
-jack-knife was found hidden among some rocks on Lookout Mountain. Indian
-traditions bear out the story. Much gold was taken by the Indians when
-the men were killed.
-
-The Gordon Stockade party, however, was the party that started the rush
-to the Hills. One of General Custer’s mining engineers Horatio N. Ross
-found gold along French Creek near the present city of Custer, on July
-27, 1874. William T. McKay shares honors with Ross. As soon as Custer’s
-report came out the government issued orders that no white people would
-be permitted to enter the Black Hills until a treaty could be made with
-the Indians, for this was guaranteed a hunting ground for them when the
-eastern land was wrested from them.
-
-        [Illustration: The first cabin built in the Black Hills
-                     Now standing in Custer, S.D.]
-
-The Gordon party like many others decided to try to break through the
-troops and start mining gold. The party consisted of twenty-six men, one
-woman, and her son. They left Sioux City in October of 1874. They
-suffered many hardships in the trip, crossing the Badlands, swimming the
-Cheyenne River, and overcoming innumerable difficulties. They kept ever
-on, confident that they would all become millionaires as a result of the
-expedition. They met Indians to whom they had to give much of their
-food. They finally struck the Hills near Sturgis and from there took
-General Custer’s trail south to Custer City. They arrived on French
-Creek December 23, built the stockade, and began panning for gold. They
-found paying quantities. In the meantime the government troops were
-trying in vain to follow the complicated trail that the party had
-purposely planned to lead them astray. A blizzard set in, finally,
-obliterating the trail. The party got together enough gold and on
-February 6, 1875 Gordon and one of the other men started for Sioux City
-with it on horseback. Sioux City went wild upon the arrival of the men
-with the bag of gold tied on a saddle horn. They immediately sent
-another expedition to the Hills. This party, however, was taken by
-government troops and their property was confiscated.
-
-                     [Illustration: Museum, Custer
-                                                          O’Neill Photo]
-
-The Indians reported to the military authorities the presence of the
-white people in the Hills, and on April 4, 1875, the troops found the
-settlers, and gave them 24 hours to get ready to leave as prisoners for
-Fort Laramie, Wyoming.
-
-Three times parts of the expedition tried to escape and go back to the
-stockade, but each time they were rearrested and brought back. The third
-time, however, they escaped while being brought back and succeeded in
-reaching the stockade. Mrs. Tallent, herself, finally, the next year
-succeeded in returning to Custer, later going to Deadwood and Rapid
-City. There she became County Superintendent of Schools.
-
-Miners found their way into Custer from all directions in 1875 in spite
-of the government troops. Mining in the Black Hills had come to stay.
-
-Thus runs the story of the Gordon Stockade and Tallent monument, and
-their significance in the early life in the Hills. Their principals
-started Black Hills History.
-
-            [Illustration: The expedition camped in a valley
-                            Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society]
-
-We proceed to the municipal camp upon the hill past the town, and there
-pitch our tent. A storm is brewing. We hurry along, getting dinner over
-early. Then we go into the fine community building to get acquainted.
-There we meet a young man who has just graduated from the School of
-Mines and has accepted a position in the deserts of California where he
-is to develop certain mineral deposits owned by a large corporation of
-Oakland.
-
-              [Illustration: Placer Mining—Deadwood Gulch
-                Mining gold in the Black Hills in 1876]
-
-           [Illustration: A Custer street in the Early Days]
-
-This young man shows us a case containing 205 minerals. They include
-practically all of the world’s minerals except some of the valuable ones
-such as diamonds and radium. He proceeds to tell us the story of the
-formation of the Hills. He tells us that in eons past there was a
-terrific granite upheaval. The layers were higher than they now are.
-Gradually they eroded and mineral bearing ores washed down between the
-crevices of granite. This left the great sloping layers of granite and
-minerals that we now find.
-
-                  [Illustration: A Typical Log Cabin]
-
-After an interesting evening we retire, just before the storm breaks. It
-rains, while we sleep on.
-
-The next morning having heard that log summer cabins could be built upon
-land leased from the government, we proceeded to the offices of the
-Harney National Forest Service Supervisor to learn the details. He tells
-us that the United States has surveyed sites along several streams, and
-South Dakota has done the same in the State Park. These sites are in the
-more desirable parts of the Hills, readily accessible from main roads.
-The government surveys the land and stakes out a group of plots in a
-line. These are leased to those desiring summer home sites at ten
-dollars a year, or fifteen if the site is to be sublet. The forest
-service marks certain trees which may be cut and used for making log
-cabins. These trees, used for building are sold to the lessee at 2½ to 3
-cents per lineal foot, depending upon the size. Thus a cabin amounts to
-a comparatively few dollars, and the annual fee is but few more.
-
-              [Illustration: General Custer’s camp in 1874
-            Photo by Illinworth, official photographer on the expedition
-                            Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society]
-
-The supervisor shows us maps which are made of the sites surveyed.
-Several fine sites are available on Rapid Creek, Spring Creek, French
-Creek, Battle Creek, Sunday Gulch, Sunday Creek, Chinaman’s Gulch, St.
-Elmo, and Balser Gulch. They are close to Custer, Hill City, Rapid City,
-the Game Lodge, and Sylvan Lake. Other sites, he informs us, are
-available at Spearfish through the Black Hills National Forest Service’s
-office.
-
-                     [Illustration: Custer Enroute
-                            Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society]
-
-Cabins have been built on many such sites. They are made of logs
-interlocked at the corners and chinked with oakum or filled with
-concrete, reinforced with barbed wire. One cannot help “falling for”
-them with their rustic construction, beautiful stone fireplaces, and
-attractive sites. We cannot help determining to come back to build a
-cabin for summer and for hunting season. Rustic furniture may be built
-for equipment and other features to suit the fancy of the occupant.
-
-               [Illustration: The Expedition in Formation
-                            Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society]
-
-We leave the office filled with inspiration and wend our way toward the
-old museum cabin. On the way we pass a cabin built of Black Hills stone
-mounted in concrete with a beautiful fireplace of rose quartz, crystals,
-petrified wood, petrified moss, mica and tourmaline extending clear to
-the ceiling. The effect is really one of splendor. Within the house are
-souvenirs of all kinds made of Black Hills stones, set in concrete. The
-place is one that should not be passed up. The Rose Quartz Soda Fountain
-is another rare sight. The whole town is filled with these beautiful
-mounted stones, even to the bridge lamp posts.
-
-We reach the little cabin for which we have started and see the date
-1875 on its gable.
-
-Outside the door is a sluice box or pan used in the early days to pan
-gold. This is quite a curio. The gold, after going through a screen made
-of copper filled with nail holes, was supposed to stick on the sloping
-canvas bottom and let the water on through.
-
-                  [Illustration: Camp on French Creek
-                            Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society]
-
-Within the house is a great collection of early weapons, seats,
-pictures, an old wooden tombstone, saddles, implements, an ox yoke,
-rocks, horns, stuffed birds and beasts of that region and on the wall
-newspaper clippings of the early days. These relics are worth much time
-and thought. The newspaper clippings are colorful accounts of early
-shootings, hangings, holdups and gold discoveries. Interesting? Say,
-just start on them and try to tear yourself away.
-
-                      [Illustration: A camp scene
-                            Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society]
-
-One placard reads in part as follows: “This cabin, the oldest in the
-Black Hills, was built by the U. S. troops under General Crook in 1875.
-Visitors to the Black Hills were not welcomed here in those days. The
-Indians, who then owned the land, did their best to discourage them from
-coming and removed the scalps of such of them as fell into their hands
-to mark their disapproval of their presence here. The U. S. Army, when
-they caught any gold seekers attempting to enter the Hills, burned their
-wagons and outfits and escorted them to Fort Laramie as prisoners.
-
-[Illustration: What the Black Hills looked like to Custer’s Expedition]
-
-“In spite of all efforts to keep miners from entering the Hills, many,
-in less than a year from the time that the discovery of gold on French
-Creek had been made by General Custer’s expedition, had reached Custer
-city and were busy prospecting the country in all directions.
-
-“Then came General Crook with troops and ordered all the miners who were
-in the Hills to vacate the country by August 10, 1875. While the troops
-were here they built this cabin, etc., etc., etc.”
-
-We leave the cabin and saunter over to the gold discovery monument just
-west of it. This is a beautiful thing of Black Hills rocks and cement,
-with a bronze plate upon it denoting its significance.
-
-                [Illustration: Community Cabin, Custer]
-
-North of Main Street is the huge log community house, probably the
-largest in the Black Hills. It is a gigantic thing and very impressive.
-We strike camp at noon and leave town by the west road. We are taking 85
-to Minnekahta and U. S. 18 from there on to Edgemont. Possibly this is
-an ill-advised trip, but we make it nevertheless, hoping to see the
-petrified forest. In this we are not altogether successful.
-
-We pass the state tuberculosis sanitarium composed of many pure white
-buildings. The place is very impressive, but we do not stop.
-
-                  [Illustration: Sawdust Pile, Custer]
-
-                [Illustration: Petrified Log, Edgemont]
-
-Our next point of interest is the large sawmill beside the road. The
-huge blower and sawdust pile seen in the picture give us some idea of
-its size. The main rip saws are in gangs of three cutting boards one and
-two inches in thickness. Cross cut blades cut boards into the longest
-possible sizes. The bark and refuse slabs are fed into the fire to make
-steam to run the plant. We do not see any fine work or finishing here.
-
-We pass on through Pringle. A short distance from here we find some
-interesting specimens which look like petrified acorns or small nuts
-embedded in limestone. But the next is the most peculiar specimen of
-all. As we cross the railroad well on the way from Pringle to
-Minnekahta, there stands, west of the track, in a pasture, a peculiar
-beast. It is made up of a log, with four prongs (branches) resembling
-legs. Another log is attached for a head and two root systems attached
-for horns. The result, with the addition of a little paint resembles
-very much a grotesque elk.
-
-In Edgemont we see huge specimens from the petrified forest, one tree of
-solid rock weight 14,370 pounds. The specimens are remarkable, but we
-are not destined to see the petrified forest itself. In Hot Springs
-later we are to find all the petrified wood we care to carry home,
-however. We will speed back to Minnekahta and thence over U. S. 18 to
-Hot Springs.
-
-               [Illustration: Gray Rocks, Custer, S. D.]
-
-      [Illustration: Battle Mountain Sanitarium for Old Soldiers]
-
-
-
-
-                              CHAPTER XVII
-                              Hot Springs
-
-
-We arrive in Hot Springs late in the afternoon and look for a cabin for
-the night. All of them are filled up, so we look for a camp site. Evans
-Heights is too steep for our heavily loaded car, and we drive down to
-the Municipal Camp. After pitching camp we attempt to find out what
-there is in Hot Springs to see. We find that there is much and
-accordingly lay our plans for a big day.
-
-After breakfast the first thing we do is to cross the railroad track on
-foot looking for petrified moss and wood. From the stream bed we get
-several particularly fine specimens of the moss. These we cache while we
-go into a pasture up the slope across S. D. 79 looking for petrified
-wood. Our search is soon rewarded. We find many fine specimens and
-return to camp well loaded with stone. The phenomenon of the mineral
-water turning vegetation into stone is a peculiar one.
-
-We next take the twelve mile road down past the camp toward Cascade
-Springs. Ten miles from Hot Springs we come upon what at one time
-promised to be a fine modern city. Modern buildings were built,
-including brick business buildings with glass fronts. The hope was that
-“Cascade” was to be the center of medical baths instead of Hot Springs.
-At the head of the would-be town is a great warm spring, or we might say
-a geyser boiling out of a large hole in the ground. The water is highly
-medicated. Other similar springs are in close proximity.
-
-We take the road on through the town and two miles farther on. We pass
-through a gate to the right and almost at once hear the rumble of
-Cascade Falls just below us. We drive over to the brink of the hill,
-dismount, and descend. A beautiful waterfall is before us. The water
-falls only about eight or ten feet, but it is impressive in its speed
-and volume. Vegetation of various kinds, petrified by the minerals in
-the water or just in the process of petrification fills the channel
-above. Moss, waving to and fro in the water is like sand when we feel of
-it. It has a cool clammy mineral feeling rather than the soft sensation
-we had expected to find in moss. The bank high up, is lined with
-petrified moss of a coarse texture.
-
-The whirl-pools just below the falls are deep enough for swimming but a
-few feet farther down the stream is just right for wading. This warm
-mineral water lives up to its reputation derived through long years as
-Indian medicine. One just seems to feel that this is something that
-tones him up ever so much. It reminds one of Ponce De Leon and his
-Fountain of Youth. Many people are out here today.
-
-    [Illustration: Battle Mountain Sanitarium, a National Hospital.
-U. S. Veterans Bureau Hospital for Disabled Soldiers and Sailors at Hot
-                                Springs
-                                                          Stevens Photo]
-
-We decide that no prettier or more inspiring place can be found for our
-lunch, so we eat in the valley beside the falls. After lunch we inspect
-the aqueduct, for irrigation, I believe, that crosses just above the
-falls.
-
-But we must be on our way. Some of us who are not accustomed to it
-wonder at the composition of the red soil in the Hills region. We see
-crops, good crops, growing on brick red soil. We can hardly credit our
-senses, but it must be true.
-
-Back at camp we climb Catholican Hill, just above and to the south of
-us. From there we get an excellent view of Fall River, Cheyenne River,
-Harney Peak, The Soldiers Home, The Country Club, the city, and
-surrounding country.
-
-We drive on into Hot Springs. This is one of the larger cities of the
-Hills. It is one of the most beautiful, as well. Probably the medicated
-springs and the hospital service are the things for which the city is
-best known. Many sick people come here to be cured.
-
-The great Evans Plunge is a large indoor swimming pool. Into it the
-water at 90 degrees Fahr. pours in great volume. The mineral content
-makes it pleasant feeling and restful. Hundreds of people swim here
-daily in the busy season. This is a real swim.
-
-Next we visit Minnekahta Plunge, the old original Indian spring. We are
-told that each gallon of its water contains approximately 62.55 grains
-residue consisting of Sodium Sulphate 16.07, Mica 2.46, Potassium
-Sulphate 16.51, Magnesium Sulphate 4.32, Calcium Sulphate 16.33, Sodium
-Chloride 13.79. Iron Sesqui oxide Trace.
-
-The temperature is 96 degrees Fahr. This plunge is used as a medical
-plunge, largely, with tub service as well as the swimming pool. There is
-a hotel in connection with the baths.
-
-               [Illustration: S. D. State Soldier’s Home
-                                                                Stevens]
-
-   [Illustration: Battle Mountain Sanitarium, a National Hospital For
-             Disabled Soldiers and Sailors, at Hot Springs
-                                                          Stevens Photo]
-
-          [Illustration: Cascade Falls, near Hot Springs, S.D.
-                                                          Stevens Photo]
-
-We spend another night in Hot Springs and leave early the next morning
-for Wind Cave over S. D. 85. We arrive just in time for the first trip
-through, register, pay our fee, and start.
-
-Wind Cave is a series of passages under ground formed by the erosive
-action of water. Not all of the passages have been explored, but three
-main routes are well marked. Above the ground there is no indication of
-a cave, nothing but a low broad hill. There is a souvenir shop and
-refreshment place above the entrance, and government buildings across
-the road. The cave is a part of the Wind Cave National Park, owned and
-operated by the United States Government.
-
-       [Illustration: Wind Cave National Park, Hot Springs, S.D.
-    Wind Cave Entrance. We enter through the little building in the
-                               foreground
-                                                          Stevens Photo]
-
-Tradition tells us that the place was discovered by a cow-boy who was
-riding by when a strong current of air carried his hat down through a
-crevice in the earth. We wonder if he ever recovered his hat? Why is it
-these stories leave out the one question our curiosity prompts us to
-ask. Possibly his hat, though, was not as important as the discovery of
-the cave. They are still looking for the other end of that current of
-air.
-
-Now we are ready to descend. We might profit by putting on clothes that
-will not be harmed when soiled, tho this is not necessary.
-
-To the right of the entrance is a stone carving of Alvin McDonald, the
-first guide through the cave. As we enter, with gasoline lanterns, we
-feel a strong downward draft. This disappears as we proceed. We go down
-two long flights of stairs to start with. Down, down, down, we go,
-emerging in the Bridal Chamber, 212 feet below the surface.
-
-Our guide tells us quite confidentially that a certain young lady wished
-to marry the young man of her choice, but she had promised her mother
-that she would not marry anyone on the face of the earth. To keep her
-word and still satisfy her love she was married down here below the face
-of the earth. When the Government took over the cave, however, they
-forbade the continuance of this, for it was running matrimony into the
-ground.
-
-                  [Illustration: The Sheep, Wind Cave
-                                                            Lease Photo]
-
-Farther on we see petrified prairie dogs, on a petrified mound. We hope
-our guide is strictly truthful, tho he tells us that even he cannot
-vouch for the accuracy of all he tells us. Then comes the Milky Way with
-petrified stars in a petrified sky, and after this the Snowball Chamber.
-The Post Office 240 feet down is filled with box work crystals in a sort
-of cobweb pattern, each box having some depth. We are shown the foreign
-department and the great Sears Roebuck mail chute. These formations are
-beautiful and remarkable formations of water, heat, minerals, and
-natural phenomena.
-
-Room number 23 is Nellie’s room and the Beauty Parlor follows it. Rouge,
-here is free. The petrified zoo confronts us; very interesting indeed if
-our imaginations are up to par. The Bleeding Rock is colored with iron
-oxide giving it a blood color, and sure enough the Liberty Bell is
-cracked. In the rookery is a petrified bird on a petrified nest (believe
-it if you can.)
-
-                        [Illustration: Wind Cave
-                       Frost Work, Garden of Eden
-                                                            Lease Photo]
-
-Again, quite confidentially the guide tells us that one guide went over
-lovers leap the day before and six old maids followed. After the
-petrified whirlwind, imagine it, we see a map of South America, and then
-enter Opera Hall. From it we pass to Grant’s tomb on the Hudson and be
-hanged if there isn’t an Alligator going up to see it.
-
-The Devil’s Lookout is 80 feet high, with his Dinner Gong close by. The
-Furnace Room, Hen and Chickens, Hanging Bridge and Bridal Veil Falls are
-very realistic. Sure enough, there sits a water spaniel dog begging
-for—daylight. Now we see some Swiss scenery, a mountain goat, cheese,
-bread and beer. Only the beer is not there, it was drunk by the last
-party through.
-
-We next come to the Methodist Episcopal Church. It is the custom to bow
-as you enter the low door and also bow going out. We are especially
-requested not to spit on the altar. Bishop Fowler’s Cathedral is 190
-feet across.
-
-We can just see the appetizing popcorn in Popcorn Alley, and then we
-pass on to the Hanging Rock. We carefully avoid going beneath it. Three
-hundred feet down and half a mile in we come to Odd Fellow’s Hall. There
-is the all-seeing eye and the three links—Friendship, Love, and Truth,
-with the third slightly stretched. There also is the road to Jericho and
-the Goat.
-
-We pass Samson’s Palace, The Queen’s Drawing Room, Capitol Hall, and
-Turtle Pass. Here the trail divides, the short route going to the Garden
-of Eden, the medium route to the Fair Grounds, and the long route to the
-Pearly Gates. We take the medium.
-
-In order we pass Scalping Grounds, Masonic Temple, Elks Room, with an
-elk head within and an American Eagle alighting on a rock, then the
-Grand Canyon with its great clefts hundreds of feet underground.
-
-Monte Cristo Palace is 390 feet down. Old Maid’s Glasses follows and Dog
-Tooth, made of five points spar crystals. McKinley’s memorial is next,
-and then Assembly Hall. Here, again is much artistic boxwork formation.
-Next is A. O. U. W. Hall. In it is a stone book which, our guide tells
-us, is the only Natural History of Wind Cave. From here we go to the
-Giant’s Punch Bowl and on to Johnston’s Camp Grounds.
-
-In the Bachelor’s apartments everything is upside down and all dusty. In
-his cupboard is a loaf of bread with a mouse gnawing at it. This leads
-us at last to the ticket office to the Fair Grounds. The Fair Grounds is
-a beautiful large room with a white ceiling, the whole covering about
-three acres. The first attraction is the South Dakota Teacher’s School
-Room with its calcite crystal wall. The Elephant’s Foot has fallen
-through the ceiling farther on. Then come S. D. Federation of Women’s
-Clubs Room, Ice Gorge, and The Northwestern Hotel Men’s assembly
-chamber. In the Farm Yard are a guinea hen, a little red rooster, a
-polar bear, the little red hen drinking, a guinea pig, a rabbit and a
-hen fighting, and a donkey. Last comes the jaw bone of a monster.
-
-In the Meat Market hangs a ham, a goose, and some beef. Over high steps
-and under a low ceiling we pass into the Coliseum. The seats are of
-white rock. In Rambler’s Hall is a knife through the ceiling. Next are
-the Catacombs. Here we go down a rocky precipitous descent. Last comes
-the Elk’s Room, and then the return to the entrance. Everything we have
-seen is made of rock and our imagination.
-
-          [Illustration: “Buffalo,” the Monarch of the Plains
-                        Bison in the State Park]
-
-           [Illustration: Traffic Cop, on a turn in the road
-                                                                  Lease]
-
-This has been an eventful trip.
-
-We drive on north over 85 and 81 to the South Dakota State Game
-Preserve. Here we see elk, deer, and buffalo. On the way we find some
-specimens of rose quartz. At the Game Lodge we stop to see the zoo. In
-it are deer, mountain sheep, coyotes, foxes, bears, eagles, owls,
-badgers, raccoons, porcupines, bobcats, prairie dogs, spotted rabbits,
-and elk, all alive. These are particularly interesting to lovers of
-animals.
-
-                    [Illustration: Bear in the Zoo]
-
-                       [Illustration: In the Zoo]
-
-The Game Lodge Hotel, which is the structure used by President Coolidge
-as the Summer White House of 1927, is a large well furnished affair, not
-altogether unsuited to the purpose for which it was used. Now, in the
-reception room on opposite sides of the comfortable fireplace are large
-oil paintings of President Coolidge and Grace Coolidge. Here this first
-lady of the land and her distinguished husband will, in the spirit of
-the paintings, receive guests in behalf of the nation and the State of
-South Dakota for years to come. Elk and deer heads also adorn the walls,
-while huge fur rugs cover the floor. Great leather rocking chairs and
-davenports add to the comforts of the room.
-
-        [Illustration: The State Game Lodge in Custer State Park
-                                                             Rise Photo]
-
-So popular is the Game Lodge as a summer resort hotel that any one
-wishing to secure a room here must do so several days or weeks in
-advance. During the various hunting and fishing seasons of the year this
-place is frequented by hunters from many other states of the Union as
-well as South Dakota.
-
-Special hunting licenses may be procured providing lodging here during
-the hunt.
-
-We, at last, must tear away our mooring to the Hills and head for home.
-We still have a few things to see, but we have the feeling that it is
-all over, and the total addition to our beings has been tremendous, too
-great for measurement, and as time rolls by it grows still greater.
-
-We miss one of the interesting spots of the Hills, Buffalo Gap. In
-Calico Canyon three miles west of town are located the most beautiful
-colored sandstone in the Hills and a great natural bridge of rock.
-
-             [Illustration: Natural Bridge at Buffalo Gap]
-
-At Hermosa is a neat little tourist park, but we cannot partake of it.
-In Hermosa also we see the church which won so much publicity during
-President Coolidge’s stay. Its picture does it justice. Hermosa Crystal
-Cave is ten miles west of Hermosa. At last, we speed back to Rapid City.
-Hidden City is on the way. This is the probable vestiges of what was
-once an ancient building or buildings. We spend another night in that
-inviting municipal park; and reluctantly with many a backward look, we
-head for home. Long after we leave the Hills we can look back and see
-those hazy black peaks rearing their majestic tops to the clouds. We
-can’t help recalling Morse’s old phrase, “What hath God wrought.” He
-indeed develops wonders here on earth at his almighty command.
-
-                  [Illustration: Hermosa Crystal Cave]
-
-We have been pretty much concerned about the sights, now we look around
-and see what our car looks like. The food is gone. The containers now
-house quartz, mica, granite, tourmaline, lithia, copper, gold ore,
-pictures, pine cones, and various other souvenirs. The car glides
-swiftly over the excellent roads, but nevertheless we feel it is heavily
-loaded. We weigh the car, and consternation; it weighs 4,285 pounds, or
-1500 pounds more than it does empty. We may as well look at the
-speedometer too. It was 12,114 and now it is 13,584. We have gone 1470
-miles. 250 of these might be subtracted as our trip inland from Pierre.
-
-We have had our vacation, and now we go home to ponder. It has been a
-glorious trip.
-
-                [Illustration: CUSTER STATE PARK HIGHWAY
-                           BLACK HILLS, S.D.]
-
-                [Illustration: Moonlight on the Missouri
-                              Pierre, S.D.
-                                                         Miller Foto 39]
-
-
-
-
-                               APPENDIX I
-
-
-The following are some of the more important peaks of the Black Hills.
-
-  Mountain                Where located         Height, ft.
-
-  Battle Mountain         Hot Springs                  4431
-  Bear Butte              Sturgis                      4422
-  Crook’s Tower           Rochford                     7140
-  Crow Peak               Spearfish                    5787
-  Custer Peak             Deadwood-Pactola             6794
-  Deer Sars                                            3500
-  Devil’s Tower           Sundance, Wyo.               5117
-  Flag Mountain                                        6900
-  Harney Peak             Hill City-Custer             7244
-  Lookout Peak            Spearfish                    4485
-  Missouri Buttes                                      5372
-  Mt. Coolidge            Custer                       6000
-  Mt. Pisgah                                           6400
-  Ragged Top                                           6207
-  Roosevelt Mountain      Deadwood                     5676
-  Sheep Mountain          In Badlands                  3500
-  Terry Peak              Lead                         7070
-  Tow Top                                              3732
-  White Rocks             Deadwood                     5286
-
- [Illustration: Large Horseshoe Curve, a long way around to get a short
-                            distance ahead]
-
-
-
-
-                              APPENDIX II
-              Elevation of cities and places of interest.
-
-
-  Belle Fourche           3011
-  Buffalo Gap             3258
-  Camp Crook              3200
-  Cascade                 3406
-  Crystal Cave            4242
-  Custer                  5301
-  Deadwood                4543
-  Deerfield               5900
-  Edgemont                3449
-  Fairburn                3310
-  Ft. Meade               3300
-  Galena                  4832
-  Hermosa                 3300
-  Hill City               4976
-  Hot Springs             3443
-  Interior                2381
-  Jewel Cave              5090
-  Keystone                4340
-  Lead                    5119
-  Minnekahta              4159
-  Mystic                  4835
-  Pactola                 4459
-  Philip                  2159
-  Piedmont                3463
-  Pine Ridge              3250
-  Pringle                 4879
-  Rapid City              3229
-  Rockford                5299
-  Savoy                   4956
-  Scenic                  3812
-  Silver City             4592
-  Spearfish               3637
-  State Game Lodge        4400
-  Sturgis                 3452
-  Sylvan Lake             6250
-  Terry                   6165
-  Wall                    2813
-  Whitewood               3644
-  Wind Cave               4100
-  Pierre                  1457
-
-             [Illustration: Railroad track beside a stream]
-
-
-
-
-                              APPENDIX III
-                       Industries of Black Hills
-
-
-  Mining
-  Lumbering
-  Fruit Raising
-  Farming
-  Cement Plant
-  Sugar Factory
-  Flower Mills
-  Quarrying
-  Brick Making
-  Pickle Making
-  Creameries
-  Canning
-  Souvenir Making
-  Generation of Electricity
-    150,000 H. P. estimated potential
-  Gov. fish and game raising
-  Grazing
-  Health Resorts
-  Publishing
-
-                      [Illustration: River valley]
-
-
-
-
-                              APPENDIX IV
-                                Fishing
-
-
-Originally there were no trout in the Black Hills. Now nearly every
-stream in the Hills is stocked with trout. The U. S. hatchery at
-Spearfish and the S. D. hatchery at Rapid City keep the streams well
-supplied. Approximately two million trout are thus put out each year.
-They are chiefly of four varieties: Loch Leven, Black spotted, Brook,
-and Rainbow. During our visit to the Hills we see fishermen practically
-in every part of every stream from the interior of the tourist camps to
-the headwaters in almost jungles. They use anything from the bargain one
-dollar complete angling outfit to the best outfit made. For bait they
-use anything from worms to flies. The local fishermen are better
-authorities on the subject than the author. However, many fine specimens
-are seen, and many large messes of trout are taken by all types of
-fishermen.
-
-            [Illustration: Black Hills Streams—See Page 169]
-
-
-
-
-                               APPENDIX V
-
-
-Some of the more important streams of the Black Hills are:
-
-  (1) Belle Fourche River is in the north with its tributaries:
-  (2) Sand Creek
-  (3) Sundance Creek
-  (4) Redwater Creek
-  (5) Spearfish Creek
-  (6) May Creek
-  (7) Whitewood Creek
-  (8) Bear Butte Creek
-  (9) Owl Creek
-
-Eventually these empty into the Cheyenne River.
-
-Below these come the tributaries of the:
-
-  (10) Cheyenne
-  (11) Elk Creek
-  (12) Bolder Creek
-  (13) Rapid Creek, with its tributaries
-  (14) Castle Creek
-  (15) Slate Creek
-  (16) Spring Creek
-  (17) Iron Creek
-  (18) Battle Creek
-  (19) Grace Coolidge Creek
-  (20) French Creek
-  (21) Lame Johnny Creek
-  (22) Beaver Creek
-  (23) Fall River
-
-    [Illustration: A drive through the pines in the Black Hills (76)
-                                                             Rise Photo]
-
-
-
-
-                              APPENDIX VI
-                           Camps and Camping
-
-
-The camps themselves have been taken up to some extent in the body of
-this book. In 1928 the camps in Rapid City and the northern cities far
-surpassed those of the southern towns. But the people all over the
-Hills, especially in the larger cities are fast awakening to the
-realization that good parks play a tremendous part in the development of
-their localities. Spearfish, Sturgis, Rapid City, and Deadwood were the
-first to realize the value of service to their visitors. They have
-doubtlessly reaped rich reward for their investment, judging from the
-number of people who use those camp sites night after night.
-
-The cost of the camps is generally fifty cents per car each night. This
-pays for the site, police protection, lights, in some places shower
-baths, swimming, laundry, toilets, pure water, firewood, reading room,
-community cabin, piano, and any other services the locality might
-afford; especially vegetable, milk, and grocery sales. Some of the camps
-are almost wonders in themselves.
-
-For those who prefer cabins most of the camps have small log, wood, or
-tent cabins, variously furnished, accommodating from two to six people
-or more. These rent at a dollar plus the car fee of fifty cents to a
-little more for the larger ones. The added convenience of this method of
-camping is considerable.
-
-Some of the high spots of a life-time occur in our meeting tourists from
-all parts of the state, nation, and world in these parks. These people
-range all the way from sheep herders to aviators and from students to
-corporatic magnates. They are all bent on the same quest, enjoyment of
-nature’s wonders; and all are congenial. All are as one great family,
-swapping yarns and experiences and discussing everything from the diet
-of fishworms to managing an oil company.
-
-              [Illustration: Deer in the Custer State Park
-                                           Rise Photo, Rapid City, S.D.]
-
-              [Illustration: A Log Cabin With Fire Place]
-
-Hotel rates are reasonable in the Hills, for those who prefer the best
-of conveniences rather than a complete outdoor vacation. Bus lines and
-train service from these afford excellent sight-seeing facilities.
-However, for some of us who enjoy freedom and independence the
-conventional tour seems to savor too much of routine. We lose some of
-the great pleasure of conquest and discovery of unusual and inaccessible
-places. And the privacy of our party, our own division of our time for
-the things that we personally are interested in, are features that make
-or break the success of the trip.
-
-When one is on a vacation he likes to plan his trip so as best to
-satisfy his interests and humors. This can best be accomplished when he
-is his own boss and can give as much or as little time as he wishes to
-each place of interest. The scheduled tours are excellent, but if a
-person wishes to spend more time at the mines, in the Needles, seeing
-hydro-electric plants, or inspecting factories or mills he had best plan
-his own tour.
-
-The cost of the trip is not excessive if carefully planned. The food is
-of course an item. Gasoline is another. Camp fees are small. The rest is
-more or less a matter of individual taste.
-
-The question of camping equipment and clothing is not the easiest one
-with which we must wrestle.
-
-First, possibly comes the food question. We might profit by carrying
-meat, butter, vegetables, salt, sugar, flour, pepper, and lard from home
-or bought in quantity at some point on the way, if we have a way to keep
-them from the effects of the sun. Carrots, potatoes, milk, lettuce,
-radishes, bread, fruit, canned goods, coffee, and groceries in general
-can be bought in or near most of the camps at the prices about the same
-as the home grocer charges. Carrying too much loads down the car
-excessively.
-
- [Illustration: Head of Cottonwood Draw, in center of the “Bad Lands.”
- Layers of Sandstone in Clay Beds. The sandstone protects the clay from
-   weathering and wearing away. The isolated caps are called “Ostrich
-                                Heads.”]
-
-Camping equipment is an enigma. A light tent, heavy enough to shed rain,
-large enough to accommodate all, and not having unwieldy poles, is the
-first essential; unless cabins, when accessible, or hotels are to be
-used. Second, enough cots should be provided to accommodate all. Car
-cushions and car beds are sometimes desirable. Probably the best is the
-small steel folding double camp bed with springs and a thin mattress.
-But these must be strong and not easily bent. Probably the greatest
-mistake of campers is to try to sleep with plenty of covering but not
-enough under them. Especially with the canvas cots the conduction of the
-cold air from below is considerable. Three woolen blankets or two and a
-pair of sheets and a mattress will keep two people comfortably warm
-under ordinary circumstances though some people prefer an extra blanket.
-High altitude makes the temperature drop perceptibly.
-
-For clothing, khaki, whipcord, or corduroy breeches and high laced
-leather boots are the ideal, both for men and women for mountain
-climbing or rambling around through mines, forests, etc. They can be
-cleaned and they stand rough wear. They look well also. Have a good
-sunshade hat and khaki shirts; light colored ones or woolen ones are all
-good. (I prefer the wool, even in the hottest weather, because of its
-safeguard from cold.) Wear light underclothing of course. By all means
-have two sets of this type of clothing if the stay is prolonged, as
-laundry facilities are not always available. Two pairs of hose, well
-pulled up, are best, as they do not permit chafing of the feet and they
-protect the feet against bad results of sweat.
-
-If at all possible to carry one without undue wrinkling, a good suit is
-desirable. There are occasions when one wishes to go to church, or to
-various other gatherings, dances or the like where a camping outfit is
-hardly proper.
-
-The car will appreciate having the load well balanced. If a heavy trunk
-is suspended behind, the tent and cots had better be suspended above the
-front bumper to balance it. Cover all equipment from dust and rain. Do
-not pile up equipment in front of the radiator, in the uphill grades the
-engine will need all the air it can get. Do not barricade any of the car
-doors; you’ll be sorry if you do. It is best to supply a place for
-souvenirs. Very few people go out without loading up with “junk” of one
-sort or another before returning. (Our specialty was several hundred
-pounds of rocks and minerals.)
-
-   [Illustration: Railroad and Wagon Bridge over the Missouri between
-                         Pierre and Ft. Pierre
-                                                           Miller Photo]
-
-Other desirable items of equipment are:
-
-  1. Pocket compass
-  2. Hatchet
-  3. Field Glasses
-  4. A good jack knife
-  5. A trout fishing outfit
-  6. Bathing suits for all
-  7. Matches
-  8. A pressure gasoline camp stove
-  9. Small water pail
-  10. Metal kettle, skillet, butcher knives, plates, knives, forks,
-          spoons, cups, saucers
-  11. Road maps
-
-                         [Illustration: Cabin]
-
-
-
-
-                              APPENDIX VII
-                           NEWER DEVELOPMENTS
-
-
-Since the body of this book has been written several new developments
-have come up which should be mentioned.
-
-The United States Government has made an appropriation for the
-continuation of the carving on Rushmore Mountain. This work is going
-forward now at maximum speed. The form of the first figure is taking
-shape, and indications are that the work will go forward to rapid
-completion. When these figures are finished Rushmore will be one of the
-masterpieces of sculpturing of the world.
-
-At the present time the roads to Rushmore are in very bad shape.
-Indications are, however, that a graded, surfaced highway will soon lead
-up to the mountain, the state and the local counties are putting forth
-every effort to improve the main roads and to make new roads where such
-are needed. In the not far remote future many of the scenic places not
-now readily accessible will be opened up to Black Hills visitors.
-
-The South Dakota Department of Agriculture, the Black Hills Commercial
-Clubs, and various other organizations are calling attention to mining
-possibilities in the “Hills.” Many organizations from within the state
-and from outside the state are inquiring into these projects, and many
-mining leases are being let. Some of the newer developments are
-aluminum, onyx and glass.
-
-Probably in the near future the Black Hills will have far greater
-commercial importance than they at present have.
-
-The United States Government has also made a national park out of the
-Bad Lands. This means that many of the places that were not well known
-before will be brought to the sightseeing world. It also means that some
-of the heretofore bad roads will be surfaced, so the Bad Lands will not
-necessarily have to be left out because of rain. The Bad Lands is a
-truly remarkable sight, and should not be passed up by visitors to the
-“Hills.” The added mileage is not great, but the added experience gained
-through seeing them is enormous.
-
-[Illustration: A typical scene, showing a valley flanked by hills, with
-            prairie beyond, along a creek in Haakon County]
-
-Many of the scenic spots in Rapid Canyon and Spearfish Canyon have not
-been taken up in this volume. Either of these places afford many
-beautiful sights, especially the latter. The Spearfish Canyon leads
-clear up to Lead. On the way are many summer camps or taverns. There are
-many side canyons leading off the main Spearfish Canyon, each of which
-is in itself worth ascending. The best known of these is Little
-Spearfish Canyon. All through the Hills these beautiful but not well
-known canyons and gulches may be found.
-
-The pools below Sylvan Lake is a place that should be visited, either by
-descent from the roadside marker, north of the lake, or by the path down
-from Sylvan Lake.
-
-One place of interest not before mentioned is the beautiful “Pheasant
-Dining Room” at the Game Lodge. In it, just below the ceiling, are
-thirty-three pheasants, mounted in various positions, standing, flying,
-and alighting.
-
-The Belle Fourche Roundup has been taken up in some detail. Other events
-of the summer season are not wanting. Rapid City has its Council of
-American Indians, Custer its Gold Discovery Day, Deadwood its Days of
-’76, Interior its Roundup, and so on. All of these affairs are worth
-attending. They are first class, demonstrations of the things they
-convey, and there is a liberal education in them for the person
-uninformed in their field of thought.
-
-             [Illustration: Trees silhouetted by moonlight]
-
-
-
-
-                             APPENDIX VIII
-                                 ROUTES
-
-
-Sometimes requests are made for lists of things to see on one or two
-days trips out of Rapid City. Following are four possible trips, calling
-for one or two days or even a week each:
-
-1. First, the Rapid Canyon trip.
-
-See the School of Mines Museum at the Eastern entrance to the city. From
-there go through the city past the “Old Mill Tea Room.” Take the Cement
-plant road from the Bacon camp. After seeing the cement plant return,
-and turn south at Bacon Camp. Take the road to Municipal Camp. Go
-through the Municipal Camp, and if possible, take a swim in the pool,
-over the ridge from the first row of cabins. You’ll remember that swim.
-
-From Municipal Camp take the canyon road to the left of the camp gate.
-From here ascend the canyon to Lockhart’s Inn. Here, if such is desired,
-see Lockhart’s moss sculpturing. Go on foot up the track to the Dark
-Canyon trail. This leads for several miles around crags, up Dark canyon,
-to Victoria Falls. Go up as far as you wish. Return to Rapid City.
-
-2. Northern Hills.
-
-Take in any of the Rapid City sights before mentioned. Take U. S. 16
-west, then north to Crystal Cave. Plan on a half day for this. Then
-continue north to Sturgis. There see Bear Butte. Climb it, if you feel
-ambitious. See the United States Military Post, Fort Meade, east of town
-on S. D. 24. Return, and either take Boulder Canyon, S. D. 24, or U. S.
-16 to Spearfish. See the Municipal Camp and United States trout hatchery
-southwest of town, and possibly the teachers college north of the city.
-Take a trip up the canyon, at least to Bridal Veil Falls. Stop at
-Wildcat Cave on the way if you have time. Return to Spearfish, and take
-U. S. 85 north to Belle Fourche. There see the sugar plant and Orman
-Dam. Return to Spearfish and on U. S. 16 to U. S. 85 which takes you to
-Deadwood. See Preacher Smith’s monument on the way. Stop at Pine Crest
-camp. In Deadwood see Mt. Moriah Cemetery, White Rocks, and Roosevelt
-Mountain. Return to Deadwood, and then take the road right straight
-through main street west, over the old mines road to Lead. On this road,
-(it is gravel surfaced,) see the vestiges of old mines and the old
-Central City. In Lead see the Homestake Mine. This begins at the
-Burlington station near the eastern end of main street. After the mine,
-take Icebox Canyon road to Cheyenne crossing and return or go direct
-over S. D. 83 to Pactola, and Sheridan. From here take S. D. 40 back to
-Rapid City over the beautiful Spring Creek road.
-
-                  [Illustration: Mouth of Dark Canyon
-                                            Rise Photo—Rapid City, S.D.]
-
-3. Central Hills.
-
-Again, see Rapid City. Take S. D. 40 through the beautiful Spring Creek
-valley to Sheridan and Hill City, and then back to Keystone, or you
-might go directly to Keystone. The roads might be rather rough. At
-Keystone see Keystone Consolidated Mines, Etta Mine, Juga Mine and a
-mica mine. Then see Rushmore mountain. Return to Hill City, or the mine
-trip may be left out. From Hill City take the road to Sylvan Lake. Here
-see the Lake and the Gorge. Climb Harney Peak, the highest point east of
-the Rocky Mountains. From Sylvan Lake take the Needles Highway
-twenty-seven miles, and double back over S. D. 36 to Custer. On the way
-you see the Tallent monument, and to the right a few paces the Gordon
-Stockade. See Jewell Cave, gold discovery monument, rose quartz mounted
-in masonry and the big log cabin and the museum. Take S. D. 36 through
-Galena, the Game Lodge and Hermosa, to Rapid City. In Hermosa see the
-church Pres. Coolidge attended.
-
-If the roads are bad take S. D. 79 from the East end of main street when
-leaving Rapid City, instead of S. D. 40 to the west. Thus you see
-Hermosa, and President Coolidge’s little church, the Game Lodge, Custer
-and Sylvan Lake in reverse order, and then double back over the same
-route when returning.
-
-                     [Illustration: Indian maiden]
-
-4. Southern Hills.
-
-Take S. D. 79 through Hermosa, Game Lodge and Galena. Leave 79 and take
-S. D. 81 south past Mt. Coolidge to Wind Cave. Go through this. Drive on
-to Hot Springs. See Cascade Springs and Cascade Falls. Ask the way at
-any filling station. See the petrified wood and petrified moss over the
-track east of the Municipal Camp. Take some of it with you. See Evans
-camp, and swim in Evans Plunge before you leave. Visit the old soldiers’
-home. Take the same route back, or go west to Custer when you reach S.
-D. 36, and from there take in the Needles, Sylvan Lake, Harney Peak,
-Hill City, and Sheridan, thence back to Rapid City.
-
-Make it as intensive a trip as your time will permit. If the time is
-limited some of the places must be left out.
-
-If you wish, you may take the trip through the most interesting places
-by motor bus. These busses leave Rapid City at short intervals, and
-their trip is really enjoyable.
-
-
-
-
-                    DRIVING DISTANCE FROM RAPID CITY
-
-
-  Blackhawk                16        N. W.       7
-  Piedmont                 16          ”        14
-  Crystal Cave             16          ”        22
-  Tilford                  16          ”        28
-  Sturgis                  16          ”        30
-  Whitewood                16          ”        38
-  Spearfish               16-85        ”        51
-  Belle Fourche           16-85        ”        64
-  Newell                   16          ”        62
-  Deadwood         16    Boulder       ”        43
-  Lead             16    Canyon        ”        46
-  Box Elder                16        East       10
-  Underwood                16          ”        22
-  Scenic                   40        S. E.      55
-  Interior                 40          ”        70
-  Pactola                  85        West       25
-  Hermosa                  70        South      21
-  Buffalo Gap              79          ”        50
-  Hot Springs              79          ”        63
-  Edgemont                79-85        ”        96
-  State Lodge             79-36        ”        35
-  Pringle               79-36-85       ”        55
-  Sylvan Lake              85          ”        52
-  Custer                  79-36        ”        42
-  Keystone                           S. W.      27
-  Hill City               40-85        ”        28
-  Rushmore                             ”        30
-  Phillip                  16        East       93
-
-
-
-
-          DISTANCE FROM DEADWOOD OF VARIOUS PLACES OF INTEREST
-
-
-  Spearfish                  85-16         N. W.       13
-  Belle Fourche              85-16         N. W.        3
-  Lead                        14            West       26
-  Sturgis                   Boulder         East       12
-  Crystal Cave            Boulder 14         ”         27
-  Rapid City              Boulder 14         ”         43
-  Pactola                     85           South       30
-  Hill City                   85             ”         45
-  Keystone                    85             ”         56
-  Rushmore Mt.                85             ”         56
-  Sylvan Lake                 85             ”         52
-  Game Lodge                 85-36           ”         72
-  Hermosa                    85-36           ”         86
-  Custer                      85             ”         58
-  Custer-Needles              85             ”         74
-  Hot Springs                 85             ”         84
-  Edgemont                    85             ”         95
-
-
-
-
-                              Through the
-                              BLACK HILLS
-                                  and
-                               BAD LANDS
-                                   of
-                                So. Dak.
-
-
-
-
-                            Authentic Guide
-                       History—Statistics—Scenery
-
-
-                            Copyright, 1929
-                                   By
-                             P. D. Peterson
-
-                              Price, $1.35
-
-
-
-
-                          Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
---Copyright notice provided as in the original—this e-text is public
-  domain in the country of publication.
-
---Silently corrected palpable typos; left non-standard spellings and
-  dialect unchanged.
-
---Transcribed captions within photographs, where they added information
-  not in the printed caption.
-
---In the text version only, italicized text is delimited by
-  _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Black Hills and Badlands
-of South Dakota, by Purl Dewey Peterson
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-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Black Hills and Badlands of
-South Dakota, by Purl Dewey Peterson
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Through the Black Hills and Badlands of South Dakota
-
-Author: Purl Dewey Peterson
-
-Release Date: January 18, 2017 [EBook #54007]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THROUGH THE BLACK HILLS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, MFR and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
-
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-
-</pre>
-
-<div id="cover" class="img">
-<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Through the Black Hills and Bad Lands of South Dakota" width="500" height="737" />
-</div>
-<div class="img">
-<img id="insidecov" src="images/icover.jpg" alt="Through the Black Hills and Bad Lands of South Dakota" width="500" height="738" />
-</div>
-<h1>Through the
-<br /><span class="large">Black Hills</span>
-<br />and
-<br /><span class="large">Bad Lands</span>
-<br />of South Dakota</h1>
-<p class="tbcenter">By
-<br />P. D. Peterson</p>
-<p class="center">J. Fred Olander Company
-<br />Pierre, S. D.</p>
-<p class="center">Copyright, 1929
-<br />P. D. Peterson</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>To my mother who has been an
-inspiration and a guide for me
-throughout my early training, ever
-helping her family to see and acquire
-the highest ideals possible; and
-to my wife who has assisted me in
-the compilation and revision of this
-book, the following pages are affectionately
-dedicated.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<div class="img" id="fig1">
-<img src="images/p002.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="545" />
-<p class="caption">THE SPIRIT OF THE WEST
-<br />By Edwin H. Blashfield
-<br />This painting is in the Governor&rsquo;s reception room in the S. D. Capitol building at Pierre.</p>
-</div>
-<h2>FOREWORD</h2>
-<p>This book is not a history, although it contains some
-historical accounts where such are necessary to bring out
-the importance of the scenery described. It makes no attempt
-at being a technical guide of any sort, although the treatment
-of various animals, trees, flowers, and minerals is as
-near accurate as a tourist could hope to obtain.</p>
-<p>The main purpose of this book is to give a chronological
-or itinerary account of what may be seen in the Black Hills.
-It should acquaint the tourist with the things of interest to
-see on his trip. It should save him the chagrin of passing a
-point of interest without having known he did so. It should,
-further, give him a souvenir of the scenes and experiences
-of the trip. But one of the central purposes of this treatise
-is to give the school children and the grown-ups of South Dakota
-a picture of their own Black Hills and Bad Lands.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig2">
-<img src="images/p003.jpg" alt="" width="410" height="405" />
-<p class="caption"></p>
-</div>
-<h2>TABLE OF CONTENTS</h2>
-<dl class="toc">
-<dt><span class="lj">Chapter </span>Page</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c1"><span class="cn">I </span>Introduction</a> 9</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c2"><span class="cn">II </span>State Capitol</a> 13</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c3"><span class="cn">III </span>The Badlands</a> 21</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c4"><span class="cn">IV </span>Rapid City</a> 35</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c5"><span class="cn">V </span>Cement Plant</a> 40</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c6"><span class="cn">VI </span>Crystal Cave</a> 43</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c7"><span class="cn">VII </span>Sturgis</a> 48</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c8"><span class="cn">VIII </span>Belle Fourche</a> 52</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c9"><span class="cn">IX </span>Spearfish</a> 60</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c10"><span class="cn">X </span>Pine Crest Camp</a> 69</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c11"><span class="cn">XI </span>Lead</a> 71</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c12"><span class="cn">XII </span>Deadwood</a> 83</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c13"><span class="cn">XIII </span>Pactola, Silver City, and Camp Wanzer</a> 90</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c14"><span class="cn">XIV </span>Hill City and Keystone</a> 93</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c15"><span class="cn">XV </span>Needles Road, Sylvan Lake Harney Peak and the Gorge</a> 101</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c16"><span class="cn">XVI </span>Custer</a> 125</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c17"><span class="cn">XVII </span>Hot Springs</a> 145</dt>
-<dt><span class="lj">Appendix </span>Page</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c18"><span class="cn">I </span>Mountains</a> 161</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c19"><span class="cn">II </span>Elevations</a> 163</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c20"><span class="cn">III </span>Industries</a> 165</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c21"><span class="cn">IV </span>Fishing</a> 167</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c22"><span class="cn">V </span>Streams</a> 169</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c23"><span class="cn">VI </span>Camps and Camping</a> 171</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c24"><span class="cn">VII </span>New Developments</a> 179</dt>
-<dt><a href="#c25"><span class="cn">VIII </span>Shorter Routes</a> 183</dt>
-</dl>
-<div class="img" id="fig3">
-<img src="images/p004.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="628" />
-<p class="caption">Harney Peak above the clouds. This is the highest point in the United States east of the Rocky Mountains.<span class="jr">Photo by Beard</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div>
-<h2 id="c1">CHAPTER I
-<br />Introduction</h2>
-<p>&ldquo;The Wonderland of America&rdquo; is not an overstatement
-of the scenic beauty of the Black Hills of South Dakota.
-One cannot but marvel at the endless new experiences that
-he has each day, whether it be on a three days&rsquo; or a three
-weeks&rsquo; trip through the Black Hills. In the shorter trip he
-will take in the more prominent points, scarcely departing
-from the main arterial highways. On the longer tour he
-will drive a thousand to fifteen hundred miles through deep
-canyons, up to the mines, and to many other places which
-at first would seem almost impenetrable but which upon inquiry
-will be found readily accessible. The more extensive
-trip should be the one selected if at all possible, for it leaves
-an impression on a person&rsquo;s mind that cannot be erased by
-time or by any amount of traveling in any part of the world.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig4">
-<img src="images/p004a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="465" />
-<p class="caption">Birdseye view of Sylvan Lake<br /><span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>The vast, impressive grandeur of the whole, gained by the
-views from mountain tops, from the floors of canyons, and
-from various other vantage points cannot help but leave
-with one a feeling of awe, a feeling that the Creator of these
-great magnificent sturdy formations, towering toward the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_10">10</span>
-sky, penetrating the very clouds and fringed and capped by
-element defying monarchs of the evergreen family is a powerful
-Being. They leave with a person a feeling of safety under
-the protecting guidance of a Being powerful enough to
-create what lies before him.</p>
-<p>All through the &ldquo;Hills&rdquo; this feeling of the marvelous
-greatness of the structures, and the intricate workmanship
-found in them grows upon a person, until when he speeds
-eastward (or westward) at the close of the trip with an occasional
-backward look, he cannot help feeling that his mind
-has been broadened and expanded proportionate to the impressiveness
-of what he has seen.</p>
-<p>No attempt will be made in this volume at a systematic
-cataloging of the various things of interest to be seen. The
-account will be strictly chronological, in order, just as it was
-experienced on a trip through the &ldquo;Hills.&rdquo; Preceding the
-Black Hills accounts will come an account of a tour through
-the Great Badlands of South Dakota. A trip to the &ldquo;Hills&rdquo;
-is not complete without a visit to the Badlands, and the impressiveness
-of the latter is scarcely less than that of its
-neighbor. It is well to plan for this part of the trip before
-entering the &ldquo;Hills.&rdquo; Then, if it rains the Badlands must
-be postponed until the close, for the roads are somewhat
-bad when wet.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig5">
-<img src="images/p005.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="454" />
-<p class="caption">A peak in Cedar Pass<br /><span class="jr">O&rsquo;Neill Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig6">
-<img src="images/p005a.jpg" alt="" width="478" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">This Monument marks the center of the state of South Dakota and the approximate center of North America. It stands along the highway north of Pierre</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_12">12</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig7">
-<img src="images/p006.jpg" alt="" width="632" height="1000" />
-<p class="caption">Rotunda, Capitol, Pierre</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div>
-<h2 id="c2">CHAPTER II
-<br />State Capitol</h2>
-<p>No matter whether the entrance to South Dakota is
-made from the north, south, east, or west, all of the main
-roads are gravel surfaced. Many an Eastener will complain
-of the driving on these roads, but one may drive up to fifty
-or sixty miles per hour on them with comparative safety,
-with the average car. This is far beyond the legal limit of
-the state. Rain and other adverse weather conditions will
-not affect traveling. This holds true for most of the main
-highways in the &ldquo;Hills.&rdquo;</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig8">
-<img src="images/p006a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="532" />
-<p class="caption">Corridor and Grand Stairway, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Over these gravelled highways, probably U. S. 14 or U. S.
-16 we speed until we hit Pierre, the State capitol, located in
-the center of South Dakota. Here it might be well to stop
-for a few hours or overnight. The State welcomes everyone
-to a trip through the State Capitol. This trip is interesting
-and in many ways highly enlightening.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_14">14</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig9">
-<img src="images/p007.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="629" />
-<p class="caption">Governor&rsquo;s Reception Room, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig10">
-<img src="images/p007a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="548" />
-<p class="caption">Supreme Court Room, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.</p>
-</div>
-<p>The Capitol, &ldquo;up on the hill,&rdquo; is probably the first building
-of Pierre to catch the eye when entering the city from
-any direction. Its great wings and massive dome cause it
-to stand out, and its height adds to its conspicuousness.</p>
-<p>Capitol Avenue, coming from the east runs true with
-the world. It leads thus past the Governor&rsquo;s residence to a
-beautiful arch bridge over the outlet from what is known
-as Capitol Lake.</p>
-<p>On this placid lake, surrounded by splendid lawn, swans
-float gracefully and various other aquatic forms feed with
-varying degrees of industry.</p>
-<p>From here Capitol Avenue turns in a north-westerly
-direction gradually ascending to the Capitol, two blocks distant.
-The Capitol lies parallel to the avenue, being on the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_16">16</span>
-north-east side, facing the south-west. It is surrounded with
-beautiful trees, flowers, and an exceptionally beautiful lawn.</p>
-<p>After climbing the long flight of stone steps (the whole
-building is of white stone), we enter the rotunda of the Capitol.
-There we are greeted by a beautiful Carrara marble
-interior, set off by statues and pictures of those responsible
-for the early progress of South Dakota. From the exact center
-of the building we may look up into the gigantic dome
-fringed with remarkable paintings above exquisite balconies
-and alcoves.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig11">
-<img src="images/p008.jpg" alt="" width="598" height="999" />
-<p class="caption">Grand Stairway, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div>
-<p>To the left of the entrance we step into the main reception
-room of the Governor. There we see that famous oil
-painting &ldquo;The Spirit of Progress,&rdquo; by Blashfield, covering
-the entire north-west wall. Into the room, if our visit were
-in 1927 or 1928, would come Governor Bulow, who greeted
-President Coolidge to his summer white house. Governor
-Bulow never failed to extend a warm welcome to the visitors
-at the Capitol. His words delivered at a high school track
-meet in 1928 are typical of him. &ldquo;We are all competitors in
-contest of life. Upon our sportsmanship, fairness, and hard
-training depends our position at the finish.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>From the Governor&rsquo;s suite we go to the office of the
-Secretary of State, and thence through the offices of the
-Commissioner of Public Lands, and that of the State Treasurer.</p>
-<p>In the other wing we see the rooms of the Supreme Court
-of South Dakota, the offices of the judges, and the great
-Supreme Court Law Library.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig12">
-<img src="images/p008a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="548" />
-<p class="caption">Senate Chamber, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_18">18</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig13">
-<img src="images/p009.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="540" />
-<p class="caption">House of Representatives Chamber, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Now we descend the stairs to the lower floor. Here we
-find case after case lining the entire basement, filled with
-Indian costumes, stone instruments, arrow heads, war uniforms,
-and weapons of historical importance, stuffed birds
-of S. D., bones of animals, present and past, the first bag of
-sugar produced in South Dakota (encased in a silk bag) and
-various other curios. On the walls are large framed pictures
-of many of the early heroes and state officers of South
-Dakota.</p>
-<p>On this floor are the offices of the state Railroad Commission,
-Attorney General, Public Examiner, Superintendent
-of Schools, Rural Credits Board, Library Commission, Historical
-Society, and State Sheriff. Under the steps is a lunch
-counter and confectionery stand, and in front of it an information
-desk. Last but not least, in the north-west end of the
-wing stands the gigantic moose.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div>
-<p>On the second floor we find the rooms of the state Senate
-and House of Representatives, with adjoining lobbies and
-other rooms.</p>
-<p>On the third floor are balconies to the legislative rooms,
-and various offices, including the automobile license department,
-the state banking department, state securities commission,
-and others.</p>
-<p>From this floor a spiral stairway leads up, up, up, to the
-room above the inner dome. From the dome room one can
-see the mighty turbulent waters of the Missouri bubble and
-boil on their way. The great bridge is in full view, with the
-railway bridge beyond. The scenes from the &ldquo;Capitol dome&rdquo;
-are remarkable. A trip to Pierre would be incomplete without
-this part.</p>
-<p>From the Capitol our trip takes us through the city of
-Pierre over the bridge to Fort Pierre where first evidences
-of white men in S. D. were found. A high flagpole now stands
-where the Verendrye Plate, planted in 1743, was found.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig14">
-<img src="images/p009a.jpg" alt="Capital Building" width="800" height="456" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_20">20</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig15">
-<img src="images/p010.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="981" />
-<p class="caption">The Verendrye Plate, found on the bluffs above Fort Pierre, February 16, 1913. It was buried by La Verendrye, March 30, 1743, when he was exploring the land for France. This is the first evidence of white men in South Dakota.</p><p class="caption">See the plate in the corridor at the Capitol.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div>
-<h2 id="c3">CHAPTER III
-<br />The Badlands</h2>
-<p>We cross the Missouri River on the morning of June
-29th and speed along through comparatively new but highly
-productive agricultural land, through Hayes, Midland and
-Philip to Cottonwood. In Philip we find one of the most
-modern small cities of the state. It is worth stopping to see.
-When we arrive at Cottonwood, about three hours from Pierre,
-or a little less than one hundred ten miles, the weather seems
-favorable and the roads good so we turn south off U. S. highway
-14. Only a few miles out of Cottonwood we look ahead
-and see the city-like elevations far in the distance. As we
-draw nearer this great wall of clay takes on a more artistic
-contour of multicolored towers, peaks, and walls, resembling
-ruins of ancient cities.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig16">
-<img src="images/p010b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="489" />
-<p class="caption">Castle Turrets<span class="jr">          Fuson Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div>
-<p>Countless theories and possibilities enter one&rsquo;s mind to
-account for these magnificent walls, rising directly from a few
-feet to several hundred feet from level country. The
-level plains are grass covered, but the walls are practically
-bare. They are of almost pure sandy clay, with a little soft
-shale in a layer near the top. They average from a hundred
-to five hundred feet in height and are composed of several
-colors each, some containing yellow, pink, orange and blue,
-others having still different colors. For the most part the
-colors are plain or washed, but some are very pronounced.</p>
-<p>Other sections of the Badlands are depressions from the
-grassy flats, with enormous areas seemingly fallen straight
-down two to twenty feet, with perpendicular sides. The beds
-of these great depressions are bare yellow or white clay.</p>
-<p>Theories of the formation of these structures include
-&ldquo;sea bottom,&rdquo; &ldquo;erosion,&rdquo; &ldquo;volcanic eruptions,&rdquo; etc.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig17">
-<img src="images/p011.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="544" />
-<p class="caption">Summit of Cedar Pass, Interior<span class="jr">       Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>Seventeen miles from Cottonwood we drive through
-Cedar Pass into the Badlands. The road winds around and
-<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span>
-around, through depressions and through valleys between the
-great clay banks, ever leading upward. The grandeur of the
-enormous colored banks and walls would impress even the
-most barren minded person.</p>
-<p>If one is coming over the C. B. H., (or A Y P.); (U. S.
-16 to be specific), he must leave for S. D. No. 40 about fifteen
-miles west of Kadoka, and he will emerge at Cedar Pass the
-same as though he came from the north. The view is magnificent.</p>
-<p>Finally the road gets narrow and precipitous. The passes
-become more crooked and the grades more steep. The road
-is bordered by profuse scrub cedar trees. There is a thrill
-in that drive! At first it looks dangerous, but the danger
-seems to minimize as we approach each more steep and more
-crooked and more narrow section. By taking it slowly the
-risk is small. (The road has since been improved.)</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig18">
-<img src="images/p011a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="540" />
-<p class="caption">Amphitheatre of the Wilds. In the Bad Lands<span class="jr"> Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig19">
-<img src="images/p012.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="637" />
-<p class="caption">Vampire Peak in Cedar Pass, Interior. The entrance to the Big Bad Lands<span class="jr">    Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig20">
-<img src="images/p012a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="412" />
-<p class="caption">Studying the Bad Lands</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig21">
-<img src="images/p012b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="360" />
-<p class="caption">Another Bad Lands Scene</p>
-</div>
-<p>We descend the south slope of the ridge, past the new
-Cedar Pass Camp, and drive five miles or so over a good road
-into Interior. On the way, however, we stop and walk for
-some distance among the hills. We find the clay to be hard
-and firm, resembling baked mud in texture. Each rain washes
-a little of the clay down, causing a gradual erosion through
-the years. This process has gradually uncovered the remains
-of life of this country at the time of its formation. We find
-a petrified tooth of some great animal. The tooth is about
-four inches long and two wide. Some distance farther we
-run across a mammoth rock formation embedded in the clay.
-It resembles and may have been the remains of a turtle six
-<span class="pb" id="Page_26">26</span>
-or seven feet in diameter, with head and feet protruding out
-of the bank. From these same environs scientists have taken
-great petrified skeletons of ancient mastodons, reptiles, birds
-and beasts of all shapes and sizes. We can easily imagine
-how these beasts got bogged down in this once soft, spongy
-ex-sea-bottom, there to remain through these centuries.</p>
-<p>We spend more time than we had planned examining the
-place, so we find ourselves in Interior for the night. We pitch
-camp, and during the night receive our first rain on the trip.
-Our sympathy for the poor little mouse who had appropriated
-a little of the tent roof for his nest is not very pronounced.</p>
-<p>The next morning we rise early. We hike to &ldquo;Big Foot,&rdquo;
-a high clay ridge south of town, and climb it. It proves much
-higher and more difficult to climb than first appearances
-indicate. The climb is a thriller, especially as the clay is a
-bit slippery this morning.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig22">
-<img src="images/p013.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="497" />
-<p class="caption">Manitou Mountain in the Bad Lands</p>
-</div>
-<p>We return for breakfast, stopping in a field on the way
-to examine a huge oil drilling rig which has been wrecked
-many years ago. It is made almost entirely of oak, some
-<span class="pb" id="Page_27">27</span>
-timbers being two feet square and very long. The main belt
-wheel is twelve feet in diameter, made also of wood. To us
-this is a sight.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig23">
-<img src="images/p013a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="543" />
-<p class="caption">Castle of Ancients, near Scenic<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>The bacon and coffee are more than welcome when we
-return. After breakfast we strike camp and drive into town.
-There Palmer&rsquo;s Curio shop attracts us for some time. We
-leave with several calcium silicate crystals and specimens of
-the world&rsquo;s only sand crystals.</p>
-<p>The most interesting person met on our trip is found in
-Interior. He is Mr. Henry Thompson, who runs a little
-souvenir stand called &ldquo;The Wonderland.&rdquo; He wears long,
-flowing white hair and a great flowing moustache of the
-same color. His acquaintance with the country dates back
-many a year.</p>
-<p>No one going through Interior should miss him. He
-tells some very interesting tales of early days in the West.
-Recently a motion picture company used him in the role of
-the Patriarch Moses in the mountains. He gives us a rehearsal
-<span class="pb" id="Page_28">28</span>
-of the role he played and recounts the garb of animal
-skins he wore, and other interesting features of the adventure.
-We listen with open mouths, and find it difficult to tear
-ourselves away for the continuance of our journey.</p>
-<p>Twenty-four miles west of Interior, after traveling
-through the scenic splendor of the Badlands we come upon
-a vast expanse of land covered with a crust of once molten
-rock about an inch thick, now all broken into fragments. The
-formation consists of two hardened layers of once molten
-rock, probably of calcium silicate composition, smooth on the
-outer edges and joined together by countless papilae, making
-the whole look like two layers joined by a porous center.
-There is no doubt in one&rsquo;s mind, upon viewing it, that Satan
-must surely have had his headquarters here at some time or
-other.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig24">
-<img src="images/p014.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="506" />
-<p class="caption">Castle Rock in the Bad Lands, near Scenic<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>We follow State Highway Number 40 through other Badland
-wonders five miles farther. The road is very good. At
-Scenic we visit the widely known Museum Filling Station.
-Here we see a beautiful and interesting collection of stones
-<span class="pb" id="Page_29">29</span>
-from the Black Hills. In fact the entire building is covered
-with rocks, fossils and other interesting things embedded in
-concrete. Prehistoric animal bones and Indian relics from
-the Badlands are within. The bones, the curious animals, the
-pictures, the petrified eggs, the skeletons, Indian relics and
-numerous other curios are remarkable.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig25">
-<img src="images/p014a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="549" />
-<p class="caption">The Alter in the Castles of the Ancients<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>They have attracted people from throughout the world,
-not for a hasty examination but for extensive study. This
-place is one of the important places to see in the Badlands.
-One cannot afford to miss it under any circumstances.</p>
-<p>The vicinity of Scenic is known to scientists as the greatest
-fossil field in the United States. Scenic is also an Indian
-trading post.</p>
-<p>South of Scenic are some of the most spectacular examples
-of erosion in the United States. Some of the names
-assigned to them are: &ldquo;Castle of the Ancients,&rdquo; &ldquo;The Altar
-of the Gods,&rdquo; &ldquo;Castle Rock,&rdquo; &ldquo;Castle Turrets,&rdquo; &ldquo;The Sphinx
-Twins,&rdquo; &ldquo;The Silent Sentinel,&rdquo; &ldquo;Amphitheater of the Wilds&rdquo;
-and &ldquo;The Devil&rsquo;s Golf Course.&rdquo; These remarkable formations
-almost hold us in reverent awe, so stupendous are they in
-their unusualness and grandeur.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_30">30</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig26">
-<img src="images/p015.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="638" />
-<p class="caption">LOWER ENTRANCE TO DILLON PASS<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_31">31</div>
-<p>&ldquo;Hell&rsquo;s Ten Thousand Acres,&rdquo; from Scenic south are
-equal in some ways to the Grand Canyon of Colorado in their
-ruggedness. &ldquo;Hell&rsquo;s Sunken Gardens,&rdquo; south also, surpasses
-in beauty and magnitude anything of its kind in the world.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig27">
-<img src="images/p015a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="525" />
-<p class="caption">Bad Lands Museum, Scenic</p>
-</div>
-<p>Wounded Knee Battlefield, the last stand of the Sioux,
-is also south of Scenic. Here hundreds of Indians, men,
-women and children, were massacred by the soldiers when
-they stubbornly resisted the coming of law and government
-to take from them their hunting grounds. These Indians were
-all buried in one long grave, marked now with a tall marble
-slab on which are chiseled the odd names of the Indian dead.</p>
-<p>The management of the Museum Filling Station is very
-enthusiastic about the &ldquo;Great Badlands.&rdquo; They will furnish
-any additional information desired and will furnish guides at
-a reasonable cost to those who desire such in visiting the
-wonders to the south.</p>
-<p>From Scenic, trail 40 leads on to Rapid City. Some of
-the finer views of the Badlands are found along this road.</p>
-<p>On to Rapid City we drive, over an excellent dirt road.
-We stop on the Cheyenne River to eat our lunch. These
-little picnic grounds all help to make the trip a really enjoyable
-vacation. We must stop at the turn in the road for a
-drink of Nature&rsquo;s purest nectar flowing through a huge
-fountain. This is just a few miles before we reach Rapid
-City.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_32">32</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig28">
-<img src="images/p016.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="509" />
-<p class="caption">A Bad Lands Scene</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig29">
-<img src="images/p016a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="537" />
-<p class="caption">The Devil&rsquo;s Golf Course, Scenic<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig30">
-<img src="images/p016b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="545" />
-<p class="caption">The Silent Sentinel, Scenic<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>From Scenic to Rapid City is about forty-five miles.
-After leaving Scenic the silhouetted black mountains, soon
-come into view. They are visible in their magnificent grandeur,
-fifty miles distant, growing more distinct as they are
-approached. Upon nearing them, if one is familiar with the
-various peaks, he can pick each out and call it by name.</p>
-<p>We reach Rapid City in the eastern foothills, at four
-o&rsquo;clock. The School of Mines museum at the entrance to the
-city, also nationally and internationally known, is our first
-point of interest in the &ldquo;Hills.&rdquo;</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_34">34</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig31">
-<img src="images/p017.jpg" alt="" width="551" height="999" />
-<p class="caption">The route taken</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_35">35</div>
-<h2 id="c4">CHAPTER IV
-<br />Rapid City</h2>
-<p>The School of Mines Museum is not an enormous affair.
-It is contained in one large room belonging to the School of
-Mines.</p>
-<p>The bones of prehistoric animals are probably the best
-known and most widely advertised part of the museum. This
-collection includes skulls, jaw bones, teeth, leg bones, and in
-fact whole skeletons of the prehistoric monsters. One cannot
-but wonder what life was like, and how these animals
-acted in the days when they lived. The size and contour of
-these skeletons are truly remarkable.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig32">
-<img src="images/p017a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="475" />
-<p class="caption">On the Cheyenne</p>
-</div>
-<p>In cases throughout the room are displayed a vast variety
-of minerals, ores, types of rock formations, replicas of
-famous diamonds, and numerous other curios. On the south
-wall is an American flag, weighing 400 pounds, made of
-Black Hills minerals. On the east wall are two excellent
-relief maps of gigantic proportions, showing relative heights
-in the Black Hills. Guns and various other relics adorn the
-walls. No visitor to the &ldquo;Hills&rdquo; can afford to miss this part
-<span class="pb" id="Page_36">36</span>
-of the trip. It may take one half hour to a day, depending
-on one&rsquo;s interest in the displays, but the time is excellently
-spent.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig33">
-<img src="images/p018.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="415" />
-<p class="caption">Camp made</p>
-</div>
-<p>From the School we drive into Rapid City, and after a
-bit of shopping, on to the Municipal Tourist Camp. This
-camp is about four miles up Rapid Canyon west of the city.</p>
-<p>By the time the tent is pitched and camp made a dinner
-does not meet an unwelcome reception. Why the camp
-stove should choose this time to balk is a still unanswered
-question. Somehow these appliances know when they can
-aggravate one the most.</p>
-<p>Here in the Municipal Camp we receive a pleasant surprise.
-Instead of the expected camp grounds we find a beautiful
-spot for pitching our tent, &ldquo;Old Swayback,&rdquo; modern
-toilet facilities, a laundry with hot water, stores, and best
-of all an honest to goodness &ldquo;swimmin hole&rdquo; in Rapid Creek.</p>
-<p>True to the spirit of the Black Hills, Rapid City Municipal
-Camp has its neat log cabin, with reading table, fireplace,
-electric lights, and other conveniences for its guests.
-Tourists are welcomed there at any and all times. These
-log cabins are a decided thrill to the traveler who is not familiar
-with them. Later in this account there will be a description
-of the typical log cabin.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div>
-<p>The camp cots, in which we have so much confidence at
-first, have begun by this time to feel a bit hard, to seem a
-bit cold, and to afford a rather meager sort of rest. But
-here Yankee ingenuity might come into good play.</p>
-<p>The desirability of light steel camp beds instead of the
-cots and the need of light mattresses becomes evident.</p>
-<p>Sunday morning proves an excellent time to get acquainted
-with the habits of the Rapid Creek trout. Only three
-consent to being lured from their swim, however. The fishing
-is rather slow but nevertheless enjoyable. To a more
-experienced angler the luck is usually different.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig34">
-<img src="images/p018a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="458" />
-<p class="caption">Warren-Lamb Saw Mill<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>From fishing we turn to swimming. This proves to be
-a more lively sport. The water is fine, just a least bit cool.
-The current is the feature of this plunge. One no sooner
-gets out into it than he feels himself being pulled very rapidly
-downstream. The sensation is not exactly reassuring. In
-fact it frightens one. But it takes only a few strokes to get
-out of the swift water into more placid pools. This learned,
-it becomes pleasant to defy the current. Another surprise
-awaits. When one attempts to swim back to the side from
-which he entered, the current carries him past the precipitous
-rocks before he can pull himself out. No amount of
-<span class="pb" id="Page_38">38</span>
-trying results otherwise. This is almost terrifying. Fortunately,
-at this point a man happens along who is familiar with
-the pool. He shows us where there is a small quiet spot
-where the swimmer can climb up on the rocks without danger
-of being carried downstream. Again a precarious situation
-develops into a pleasure.</p>
-<p>We wish to attend church, but have no clothing along
-except our camping equipment. This convinces us that we
-should have brought along some more respectable clothing
-for it will not be amiss on several occasions during the trip.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig35">
-<img src="images/p019.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="544" />
-<p class="caption">Rapid Canyon, near Dark Canyon<span class="jr">    Photo by V</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>After lunch we drive up Rapid Canyon to Lockhart
-Inn. We go up the mountainside to see the moss sculpturing
-by Mr. Lockhart called &ldquo;A Miner&rsquo;s Dream.&rdquo; Then we
-start the ascent up the Canyon on foot. This is a climb that
-will pay one well. From Rapid Canyon we turn into Dark
-Canyon ascending by rock ledge paths and canyon floor
-through beautiful formations of nature&rsquo;s handiwork. One
-<span class="pb" id="Page_39">39</span>
-cannot imagine the thrill, not only of the scenery but also
-the thrill of accomplishment, a hundred per cent pleasant
-that goes with this trip. Some of the sidelights of the trip
-are &ldquo;Sitting Bull&rsquo;s Kitchen,&rdquo; &ldquo;Victoria Falls,&rdquo; (a beautiful
-waterfall), &ldquo;Jungle of the Gods,&rdquo; &ldquo;Bridge of the Gods,&rdquo; (a
-natural bridge formerly over the canyon but now fallen in),
-and &ldquo;Bear Cave.&rdquo; The picturesque grandeur of the panorama,
-the stupendous rocks, the great precipices, the straight tall
-trees, the swift, cold, clear streams and many other awe inspiring
-and pleasant experiences stamp themselves indelibly
-upon our minds. The experiences include climbing precipitous
-places, jumping and climbing over rocks, looking down
-over precipices hundreds of feet below, continually discovering
-something new to enjoy. The effect is invigorating, exhilarating,
-satisfying. The path is not dangerous at any
-place, though filled with thrills, especially on the paths built
-on ledges around the mountain. These are the rambles that
-mean most to vacationists, and unfortunately they are too
-often left out because of the time needed and the effort necessary
-to make them.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig36">
-<img src="images/p019a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="459" />
-<p class="caption">Rim Rock Highway in the Black Hills<span class="jr">Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_40">40</div>
-<h2 id="c5">CHAPTER V
-<br />Cement Plant</h2>
-<p>Monday morning we strike camp at 9:00 a. m. We drive
-into Rapid City, get our snapshots of the Badlands which
-had been finished there, again shop a bit, and drive out to
-the cement plant.</p>
-<p>First, however, a word about Rapid City. It is a thriving
-little city on the eastern entrance to the Hills. The
-streets have a modern air to them, with occasional reminders
-of the days of the &ldquo;West.&rdquo; During the tourist season
-the city fairly teems with life. Prices are reasonable and the
-people are courteous. The city resembles those farther east
-for the most part, not being without the familiar Woolworth
-and Penny stores. But the relics of cowboy days are still in
-evidence, and specimens of fish and game, alive or mounted,
-are shown with no little pride.</p>
-<p>The high school, where President Coolidge had his summer
-Capitol in 1927, is a place worth stopping to see.</p>
-<p>The State cement plant is run by the State of South
-Dakota. It employs about 150 people. The plant consists of
-the quarries, the sheds for raw rock, chutes, power house,
-crushers, the hydrating and baking plant, the furnaces, the
-drying tanks, the sacking department, and the offices. Each
-of the buildings is very large. The raw rock shed holds thousands
-of tons of rock. Each of the ten storage or drying tanks
-holds 15,000 barrels of cement. The plant can turn out twenty
-car loads a day, with eight hundred to a thousand sacks to
-each car.</p>
-<p>The men work nine hours each day and sometimes ten.
-The plant closed five months the first year, three the second,
-and this last year it closed but one month. When we visit
-it, it has more orders than it can fill. The South Dakota
-cement is a superior quality and is much in demand.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_41">41</div>
-<p>To the person interested in machinery the huge turbines
-and generators are very interesting. These powerful affairs
-taking up but little room, generate enough electrical power
-to run the whole enormous plant.</p>
-<p>In going through the plant one starts at the raw rock
-sheds. Here the loading devices carry the stone over a conveyor
-into the crushers. From there the material goes, by
-various processes to be soaked and made into mud, mixed,
-dried in blast tubes by very intense heat and flame, crushed
-again, run into drying tanks, and finally sacked and loaded
-into boxcars.</p>
-<p>There are two men, known as sackers who, with the use
-of machinery, can fill 15,000 to 20,000 sacks a day. They receive
-the empty sacks, tied by wire at the top, and only open
-in one toe. This open toe is slipped over a nozzle through
-which the cement pours into the sack suspended upside down,
-resting on a small scale. When the proper weight of cement
-has entered, the scale lets the bag down upon a conveyor
-belt and at the same time shuts off the cement in the nozzle.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig37">
-<img src="images/p020.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="445" />
-<p class="caption">South Dakota State Cement Plant, Rapid City</p>
-</div>
-<p>The flap inside the toe of the sack pulls across the hole
-closing the sack. Each man has four sacks filling at once,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_42">42</span>
-and he has just barely time to put on a sack and re-adjust
-his machinery before the next sack is ready. The conveyor
-belts carry the filled bags to a chute which deposits them in
-the box car, one on either side of the sacker. Each of the
-many machines throughout the plant is driven by a small
-but powerful electric motor.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig38">
-<img src="images/p021.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="423" />
-<p class="caption">A visitor in the forests of the Black Hills</p>
-</div>
-<p>The cement plant is not one of nature&rsquo;s wonders, but
-one of the products of God&rsquo;s masterpiece, man. It and other
-mechanical achievements are hardly less to be marvelled at
-than the natural wonders, themselves.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_43">43</div>
-<h2 id="c6">CHAPTER VI
-<br />Crystal Cave</h2>
-<p>From the cement plant we take U. S. Highway number
-16 through Black Hawk and Piedmont to Crystal Cave. On
-this road we encounter the second notable man-made achievement.
-The car begins to register a few degrees of added heat
-in the cooling system. Before we reach the top of the great
-hill, (several miles long), we pass several cars which have
-not been as effectively cooled as our own. The grade has
-been gradual and even, clear from the bottom to the top of
-the mountain. The road winds around vale and crag, often
-having had to be cut through solid rock or cut into a niche
-on the steep side of the mountain. It is a feat of engineering
-skill capable of firing the imagination of anyone.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig39">
-<img src="images/p021a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="433" />
-<p class="caption">Entrance to Crystal Cave</p>
-</div>
-<p>About sixteen miles out of Rapid City we come to the
-huge arrow and sign pointing to Crystal Cave. The distance
-it was to be from the main road is given us on the sign board;
-it seems twice as far. The road is no longer smooth and surfaced
-or the grades regular or straight. These &ldquo;side&rdquo; roads
-are fast being improved, and probably by another year this
-<span class="pb" id="Page_44">44</span>
-one will be fairly smooth, and wide enough for two cars to
-pass anywhere. We find it a bit rough, rutted, winding
-through dense vegetation, and narrow. However, in dry
-weather the driving there is safe, comparatively easy, and
-enjoyable. The scenery is quite picturesque. To those interested
-in birds, trees, and flowers this will be a splendid
-bit of road.</p>
-<p>After some little time, a half hour or less, we arrive at
-the cave entrance.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig40">
-<img src="images/p022.jpg" alt="" width="433" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Bridal Veil, Crystal Cave</p>
-</div>
-<p>The headquarters are located in a little log cabin with a
-wide veranda where one can see specimens from the cave
-<span class="pb" id="Page_45">45</span>
-and where souvenirs may be bought. The new cave entrance,
-pictured herewith is just above the cabin.</p>
-<p>When a large enough party has gathered, a guide lights
-many gasoline lanterns and we are told to file into the cave
-entrance. As we do so the guide distributes the lights.
-After this he takes the lead.</p>
-<p>We go into the cave in our regular clothing, without
-needing slickers or other special equipment. It might be
-said, however, khaki clothing and hobnailed boots are not so
-bad for a trip of this kind. The same holds for mountain
-climbing. High heels are decidedly a detriment to progress,
-and somewhat precarious as well, where the footing is moist
-or steep.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig41">
-<img src="images/p022a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="438" />
-<p class="caption">The Butcher&rsquo;s Face, Crystal Cave</p>
-</div>
-<p>With our lanterns we file after the guide. He leads us
-down and forward into the bowels of the earth, stopping occasionally
-to explain the various formations which we are
-passing. His &ldquo;line&rdquo; is strongly based on fact, and if one has
-a good imagination he can enjoy the trip, being able to &ldquo;see&rdquo;
-the various animals, rooms, or formations which the guide
-points out.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_46">46</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig42">
-<img src="images/p023.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="507" />
-<p class="caption">The Frozen River, Crystal Cave<span class="jr">O&rsquo;Neill Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>First, the cave has been formed in limestone, through
-erosion by water, extending over many thousands of years.
-The mineral part of the water has hardened in perfect crystals,
-looking as though they had been cut. These crystals
-cling to the walls, creating a beautiful effect. They are as
-hard as rock.</p>
-<p>Some of the high lights of the trip are &ldquo;Devil&rsquo;s Ice Box,&rdquo;
-&ldquo;Moses&rsquo;s Meat Market,&rdquo; with hams, bacon and a chicken hanging
-from the ceiling, &ldquo;The Butcher Himself&rdquo; (pictured), in
-his parlor, &ldquo;Poverty Flats,&rdquo; &ldquo;Corcham&rsquo;s Art Gallery,&rdquo; which
-contained well hung walls, and even a goat. Then came
-&ldquo;Cathedral Cave,&rdquo; with its crystalline rolling clouds. &ldquo;The
-Polar Bear,&rdquo; &ldquo;Diamond Rock,&rdquo; made of pulverized mica, and
-&ldquo;Santa Claus.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>There are stalactites hung from the tops of some of the
-caves and stalagmites built up from the floors, each of which
-if it could talk could tell stories that would be ancient history
-to Moses.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_47">47</div>
-<p>Going on, we come to &ldquo;Old Man Cave&rdquo; and &ldquo;Black Hills
-Bakery.&rdquo; In the latter were buns (of solid rock), rolls and
-loaves of bread, natural formations. From here we go into
-a room 300 feet below the surface and put out the lights.
-It is very dark there, even in the daytime.</p>
-<p>We light the lanterns, pass on, and come to the &ldquo;Whale
-that Jonah swallowed.&rdquo; Next comes the &ldquo;Mayflower,&rdquo; and
-last the trip out. The &ldquo;Bridal Veil&rdquo; and &ldquo;Frozen River&rdquo;
-were among the most picturesque of the scenes, the exact
-position of which are not recalled.</p>
-<p>Most of the rooms and passages are six to twelve feet in
-height. Some are hundreds of feet deep and some are too
-close to the floor for the unwary head. These rocks do not
-give very far when one&rsquo;s head hits them.</p>
-<p>Our guide is a decidedly congenial and unassuming young
-man. He wins the favor of all of the party, keeping the
-spirits high through the whole trip.</p>
-<p>One half mile down, on the road from Crystal Cave is a
-sign pointing toward Knife Blade Rock. This is a gigantic
-thin rock formation rising 600 feet out of the bed of the
-canyon. The origin of this phenomenon also kindles one&rsquo;s
-imagination.</p>
-<p>When viewing Knife Blade Rock we stand on a high
-precipitous canyon wall and look nearly straight down
-hundreds of feet into the Elk Creek Canyon. This view is
-magnificent; the great deep canyon, the precipitous cliff,
-Knife Blade, and the expansive opposite bank covered with
-heavy vegetation.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig43">
-<img src="images/p023a.jpg" alt="Cabin" width="500" height="313" />
-</div>
-<p>From here we move on toward Sturgis about ten miles
-distant.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_48">48</div>
-<h2 id="c7">CHAPTER VII
-<br />Sturgis</h2>
-<p>The road to Sturgis is pretty well crowded with cars
-headed for the Tri-State Roundup at Belle Fourche. We
-arrive about four o&rsquo;clock. The next hour is spent in getting
-boots repaired, getting haircuts and in replenishing the food
-supply.</p>
-<p>We still have a good supply of eggs, butter, bacon, fruit,
-and vegetables which we packed up on the farm before starting
-the trip. At each tourist camp we get plenty of fresh
-vegetables and milk. We appreciate the vegetable and store
-service of the camps. It is excellent. This, with the food
-stove, utensils and dishes we brought with us on the trip,
-makes our food question simple and economical as well as
-highly satisfactory. We enjoy every meal.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig44">
-<img src="images/p024.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="409" />
-<p class="caption">Bear Butte in the Distance</p>
-</div>
-<p>Sturgis has one of the best tourist parks we encountered
-on the trip. The camp is equipped with excellent little cottages
-for those who prefer them. It has a main camp building
-containing running spring water, modern toilet facilities with
-hot and cold water, shower baths and a laundry. Bear Butte
-<span class="pb" id="Page_49">49</span>
-Creek flows directly behind our tent. Above our heads are
-electric lights. Beside the thrill and exhilaration of camping
-the conveniences are almost equal to those enjoyed in a first
-class hotel. The nice shady camp site, however, to the person
-enjoying the out-of-doors makes a hotel feel like a dungeon.
-The tent takes but a few minutes to set up and it adds tremendously
-to the pleasure of an outing.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig45">
-<img src="images/p024a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="505" />
-<p class="caption">Bear Butte, close up<span class="jr">        O. A. Vik</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>We get a good night&rsquo;s rest in the Sturgis park and rise
-early the following morning to partake of the nice hot flap-jacks,
-bacon, coffee and oatmeal. (We will need it all before
-lunch time).</p>
-<p>We start out bright and early to climb Bear Butte. We
-take trail No. 79 out to the northeast of Sturgis. We leave
-the highway a few miles out and take the Bear Butte trail.
-What looked like a mile or two proves to be seven or eight,
-and what looked like a small mound proves to be a huge formation
-rising nearly a thousand feet above its base.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_50">50</div>
-<p>We had hoped to prance right up to the top on short notice.
-Our troubles start when we cannot decide whether we
-are supposed to go up the east or south slope. We find later
-that either is sufficiently difficult. We finally flounder
-around to a farm house near the south slope, leave the car
-and start up.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig46">
-<img src="images/p025.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="407" />
-<p class="caption">Climbing Bear Butte. It is more steep than it looked</p>
-</div>
-<p>The slope is steep and progress slow. The whole party
-of us begin the climb. When we reach the shale slope and
-have to climb instead of walk, only three of us are still going.
-Even our shoes show the effects of the rocks. Well, we climb
-for an hour and finally find ourselves on the top of this promontory
-which we have by this time learned to respect. The
-pictures show the size of the rocks compared with the humans
-climbing them.</p>
-<p>The view from here is excellent. We can see Mt. Roosevelt,
-Harney Peak, White Rocks and other peaks with which
-we are acquainted standing out in distant relief. The plains
-stretch out for miles and miles to the north and east, and the
-picturesque mountains are spread in the other directions. It
-seems almost as though this peak towers above the entire
-surrounding country on all sides. The view is well worth the
-hard climb necessary to attain it. The U. S. Geological Survey
-marker on the top indicates that the height is 4439 feet
-<span class="pb" id="Page_51">51</span>
-above the sea level, 987 feet above the city of Sturgis which,
-is 3452 feet. (See <a href="#c18">appendix</a>.)</p>
-<p>We descend in somewhat better time than it took us to
-go up, have lunch and return to camp. From here we take
-trail 24 for about two miles out to Ft. Meade, a military post.
-Here we watch a polo game and guard mount. In the camp
-are stationed about 750 U. S. regular army artillery men and
-cavalrymen.</p>
-<p>While at Sturgis we should take the Boulder Canyon road
-to Deadwood but we miss this scenery as well as Rim Rock
-Drive above Rapid Canyon. Boulder Canyon is one of the
-most picturesque roads in the Hills, so enormous are its
-perpendicular figured rock walls.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig47">
-<img src="images/p025a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="412" />
-<p class="caption">The Shale Slope, Bear Butte</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_52">52</div>
-<h2 id="c8">CHAPTER VIII
-<br />Belle Fourche</h2>
-<p>We retire early on the night of the third and are on the
-road early the next morning, headed for Belle Fourche over
-U. S. 16. At Whitewood we go over another gigantic ridge
-of hills which taxes our heavily loaded car. At Spearfish we
-take U. S. 85 and gradually leave the mountains for the more
-level northern plains.</p>
-<p>We arrive in a very busy Belle Fourche. The streets are
-lined with people, refreshment stands, side shows and various
-other gala sights. Parking room is scarce. The whole town
-reflects the western spirit. The predominating costume is
-that of the cowboy dressed up. Broad rimmed, high crowned
-hats and bright silk neckerchiefs are everywhere.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig48">
-<img src="images/p026.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="494" />
-<p class="caption">President Coolidge at the Roundup<span class="jr">Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_53">53</div>
-<p>Probably a Scotch visitor would not exactly appreciate
-the reception. The Roundup is a gala affair. The people
-come there to spend money. Those running the various
-amusements and refreshment stands seem to understand this
-perfectly and render all possible assistance. In the West the
-celebrations are not marked with the conservatism of the East.</p>
-<p>We enjoy the day after we get our bearings. We have
-lunch after a couple of hours of &ldquo;seeing Belle&rdquo; and then go
-out to the Roundup. The road is packed; we have started
-none too soon. True to the training of school teachers, we try
-to conserve on costs as much as possible. We have paid a
-dollar apiece for general admission and now we decide a fifty
-cent seat will be nearly as good as one for a dollar or more.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig49">
-<img src="images/p026a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="504" />
-<p class="caption">An Exciting Ride<br />Bill Pawley on a high one.<br />Cody Stampede, 1921</p>
-</div>
-<p>We get excellent bleacher seats, but somehow they get
-surprisingly hard during the three hours and over that we
-sit there. The sun is uncomfortably hot and the folks climbing
-up and down are none too careful at whose expenses they
-get the dust brushed from their shoes. We can not see the
-events very plainly in some cases, but we are not cheated out
-of very much of the performance at that.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_54">54</div>
-<p>The clown car opens the day. Of course it is a Ford. But
-the clown has done his duty and the affair brings forth more
-than forced smiles. The Rapid City Bugle Corps, the Cavalry
-Band (mounted) from Fort Meade, and the C. &amp; N. W. Band
-from Chicago are outstanding attractions.</p>
-<p>The cow pony race comes next, then roping and the
-cowboy relay. Those cowboys can certainly change saddles
-from one pony to another in a hurry and also ride. Following
-this comes exhibitions in horseback hurdling by cavalrymen.
-Then comes a contest of cowboys riding steers. The man who
-stays with his steer longest wins. Some of those fellows get
-pretty hard spills. The broncho riding contest is just as lively.
-The horses try hard enough to unseat their riders and many
-of them succeed. The clown, in enormous red &ldquo;Shaps,&rdquo; rides
-a bucking steer upon which he is mounted backward.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig50">
-<img src="images/p027.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="501" />
-<p class="caption">Steer riding</p>
-</div>
-<p>The cowgirl race is a close one, the winner almost having
-to win by the proverbial sticking out of the horse&rsquo;s tongue.</p>
-<p>After this comes stunt riding and trick riding. The men,
-and women, too, ride at a gallop doing head stands on the
-saddle, standing upright, at right angles to the horse, clinging
-beneath the horse&rsquo;s neck, seated backward and in various
-<span class="pb" id="Page_55">55</span>
-other ways. They do gymnastics on the horses in full gallop.
-One juggles balls in the air while riding, standing on the saddle
-at full gallop. One lies on his back whirling a rope while
-the horse beneath him runs. The clown rides a bucking
-Missouri mule.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig51">
-<img src="images/p027a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="596" />
-<p class="caption">The Horse Wins<br />Dug Walker off Ripvanwinkle<br />White River Frontier Days<span class="jr">O&rsquo;Neill Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_56">56</div>
-<p>For deviation, songs are sung amplified so that the crowd
-can hear them. One is &ldquo;Black Hills Rosebud.&rdquo; Governor
-Bulow gives a short talk, too.</p>
-<p>Bulldogging steers, or riding up beside them, grasping
-them by the horns, at full run, dismounting and throwing
-them upon their backs seems to be the most popular sport.
-The record time is under nine seconds.</p>
-<p>The cowgirl relay is another exciting event. A cowgirl
-then puts on a highly applauded solo dance. After this comes
-the calf roping contest. This calls for real action. Riders,
-mounted on two horses, one foot on each, furnished the next
-race. One girl is entered.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig52">
-<img src="images/p028.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="437" />
-<p class="caption">Orman Dam, Belle Fourche</p>
-</div>
-<p>Mabel Strickland, famous woman rider, puts on a steer
-roping exhibition and the bucking mule riding contest follows.
-Then comes the wild horse race. During the whole performance
-Clyde Ice of the Rapid Transit Co. is hovering over the
-fairgrounds with his tri-motored Ford passenger plane.</p>
-<p>The last event is an exhibition by one of the girls riding a
-bucking horse. The horse throws the young lady before leaving
-the corral shute. Accidents occasionally occur in this
-rough play, though they are rarely fatal. All in all, the performance
-is very good.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_57">57</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig53">
-<img src="images/p028a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="272" />
-<p class="caption">U. and I. Sugar Plant, Belle Fourche, South Dakota<span class="jr">O&rsquo;Neill Photo</span></p>
-<p class="caption">This is one of the large plants for making sugar from beets located in the midwestern states. This plant is supplied with beets from the Belle Fourche Valley, irrigated from the great irrigation project administered by the United States Government, and located north of Belle Fourche. Needless to say this is one of the major industries of this part of the state.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_58">58</div>
-<p>After the program there are twenty thousand people trying
-to leave the grounds at once and soon after the roads from
-Belle Fourche receive a goodly share of these people. We
-follow the southbound stream as far as the tourist camp, a
-mile or two out.</p>
-<p>Belle Fourche has a modern camp, although it is just in
-the process of construction and not yet as complete as some
-of the others. They have an outdoor dance floor, which is
-very popular on the night of the Fourth.</p>
-<p>The morning of the fifth we drive back through Belle
-Fourche and east over U. S. Highway 212 to the &ldquo;U. and I.&rdquo;
-sugar plant. This is another of the Black Hills industries.
-We are given a pamphlet telling us that: the plant covers
-eight acres; the main building is five stories high; the length
-of the factory and warehouse is 587 feet; the capacity is
-fifteen hundred tons of beets each twenty-four hours, and
-the output 3600 hundred pound bags of sugar every day.
-Three hundred men are employed during refining season.</p>
-<p>A guide takes us through. We first see six 400 horsepower
-boilers and two 1200 horsepower generators. These are
-enormous affairs. They develop the power for the plant.
-We proceed to the place where the beets are unloaded and
-conveyed through an open flume, through a trash catcher to
-the washer.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig54">
-<img src="images/p029.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="414" />
-<p class="caption">Spillway, Orman Dam</p>
-</div>
-<p>From here the beets are taken by an elevator to the top
-of the plant. There knives cut them into small strings less
-<span class="pb" id="Page_59">59</span>
-than a half inch in diameter. These chips or &ldquo;spaghetti&rdquo; are
-run into diffusion tanks. They first go to a liming station,
-then through sulfur stoves, a bleaching process and on into
-evaporating tanks. Here the solution is concentrated from
-12 per cent sugar to 65 per cent pure. Then the sugar is put
-through a centrifugal crystalizer and through a hot air blast
-dryer. It takes just twenty-four hours from beets to sugar.
-All machinery is electric.</p>
-<p>The factory produced 183,000 bags of sugar last year or
-over eighteen million pounds. About one-fourth of this is in
-the warehouse when we visit it. The beets were grown on
-11,000 acres in 1927 and the total crop was 35,000 tons of
-beets.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig55">
-<img src="images/p029a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="412" />
-<p class="caption">An Irrigation Canal</p>
-</div>
-<p>We go further east on the highway 212 to the byroad
-leading north to Orman Dam. The dam is a gigantic affair,
-holding back a tremendous amount of water for use in irrigating
-land for sugar beets and other crops. The water is
-so clear that we can see the fish swimming beneath its surface.</p>
-<p>The Belle Fourche Reclamation Project is one of the
-wonders of the western part of South Dakota. It is not in
-the &ldquo;Hills&rdquo; proper, but is well worth going to see. We drive
-on to Nisland, observing the effects of irrigation as we go.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_60">60</div>
-<h2 id="c9">CHAPTER IX
-<br />Spearfish</h2>
-<div class="img" id="fig56">
-<img src="images/p030.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="446" />
-<p class="caption">U. S. Government Fish Hatchery at Spearfish</p>
-</div>
-<p>From Nisland we retrace our route through Belle Fourche
-to Spearfish. There we find another splendid and modern
-camp. We enjoy staying at these camps of which their cities
-are justly proud. The cost is the same fifty cents per night
-as that of the less developed camps. But the modern toilet
-facilities, running water, wood, stoves, lights, community log
-cabins, dance floors, swimming pool, fishing and patrol system
-create in the traveler&rsquo;s heart a warm feeling toward those
-cities or towns. In addition to this, the freedom with which
-people from all over the United States meet and talk over
-experiences is a source of lasting pleasure to the conversational
-type. The large cars of eastern manufacturers and
-the Fords of vagabonds from any place in South Dakota or
-the United States sleep side by side. Toward evening knots
-of people gather here and there about the camp or in the
-community building and the topic is likely to be anything
-from sheep raising in Perkins county or mica mining at Keystone
-<span class="pb" id="Page_61">61</span>
-to the workings of the New York Stock Exchange.
-Roads are discussed, scenery and experiences are swapped
-and friendships are made. Everyone is congenial, all are
-neighbors and class spirit does not exist. It would surprise
-one how he can broaden his knowledge through these contacts.</p>
-<p>No matter whether one&rsquo;s interest is fishing, swimming,
-camping or gossiping, he or she will naturally fit into a group
-in camp.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig57">
-<img src="images/p030a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="455" />
-<p class="caption">Lookout Mountain near Spearfish</p>
-</div>
-<p>The United States trout hatchery is located beside the
-Spearfish camp, just across the bridge to the south. Here
-the United States government maintains tanks in which they
-raise several varieties of trout. There is a different size in
-each tank ranging from the frisky little baby trout to the
-sedate monsters that give a person a certain longing for
-just one chance at their like. These speckled and rainbow
-beauties are a sight to behold. If one can get around there
-at feeding time he will behold a still greater treat.</p>
-<p>Across the road from the hatchery is a pretty decent
-little swimming pool, formed by a dam in Spearfish Creek.
-A swim in one of these clear mountain streams is a rare treat.
-The visitor in the &ldquo;Hills&rdquo; should plan to indulge as often as
-possible.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_62">62</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig58">
-<img src="images/p031.jpg" alt="" width="597" height="999" />
-<p class="caption">Spearfish Creek, Lead, S. D.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_63">63</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig59">
-<img src="images/p031a.jpg" alt="" width="460" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Maurice, In Spearfish Canyon<span class="jr">O. A. Vik</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_64">64</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig60">
-<img src="images/p032.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="801" />
-<p class="caption">Bridal Veil Falls</p>
-</div>
-<p>The next morning, July 6th, we take a trip up Spearfish
-Canyon. The road leads past the fish hatchery, plunging into
-the mountains and woods over ground owned or leased by the
-Homestake Mine Company. The road is fairly well worn but
-poorly marked. Nevertheless, this trip above all others is not
-one to be abandoned. Word just arrives that the road will
-be improved clear to Lead next summer. The road winds
-over gentle slopes and makes sharp turns. One must drive
-under twenty miles per hour and sound his horn often. But
-a person does not realize the marvelous beauty that lies hidden
-<span class="pb" id="Page_65">65</span>
-in this valley until he actually penetrates, not a mile or
-two, but clear up as far as cars will go. One must get out
-and press through the timber until he comes to a place from
-which he can view a great expanse of the valley and wall
-before he can fully appreciate Spearfish Canyon.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig61">
-<img src="images/p032a.jpg" alt="" width="402" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Admiring the Falls</p>
-</div>
-<p>Wildcat Cave is located a few miles up the valley. The
-car must be parked beside the road and the ascent up the
-steep canyon wall continued on foot. The cave lies a quarter
-of a mile or so up. The climb to it is steep and part of the
-way is over rocks washed by springs.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_66">66</div>
-<p>The path leads through dense growths of timber and
-shrubs. At last we come to a huge overhanging cliff, below
-which is the Wildcat Cave. Over the top of the cliff clear
-cold spring water half drips, half runs continually. At various
-places in its walls springs ooze out, too. The one little
-waterfall over the center comes down through about fifty
-feet of space. If a person is adventuresome and ambitious
-he might climb the crags clear to the top of the mountain
-on the right.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig62">
-<img src="images/p033.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="507" />
-<p class="caption">Savoy<span class="jr"> Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>Seven and a half miles up the canyon from Spearfish we
-come to Bridal Veil Falls. This is a beautiful waterfall, with
-not much volume but a great height. Probably it falls 200
-feet and is twenty feet wide on the average. The spectacle of
-this is really awe inspiring. The flimsy lace like folds tumbling
-over the succeeding layers of rock make unquestionably
-the most beautiful waterfall in the Black Hills. We stop at
-its foot to eat our lunch while admiring its beauty.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_67">67</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig63">
-<img src="images/p033a.jpg" alt="" width="476" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Multiplex Falls</p>
-</div>
-<p>From Bridal Veil Falls the road winds up the canyon to
-the Spearfish hydro-electric water flume. Above that is
-Roughlock Falls and the Homestake hydro-electric plant, and
-<span class="pb" id="Page_68">68</span>
-we must not forget Latchstring Inn. Foolish is the visitor
-who turns back before seeing all of these, if weather conditions
-permit.</p>
-<p>After this the trail leads back to Spearfish and thence
-fifteen miles over into Wyoming. We could go on west to
-Devil&rsquo;s Tower, but that would mean a long trip. So we just
-cross the State line and return. Here the fun begins for us.
-The rain has begun, slowly at first and has kept ever increasing.
-We have determined to make Pine Crest Park at Deadwood
-this evening, and accordingly break camp and set out.
-We have gone a few miles when the rain comes down in torrents.
-Fortunately the roads are good, but we have to drive
-with the windshield cleaner working constantly. We enjoy
-the beautiful scenery in spite of the rain.</p>
-<p>We take U. S. 14 for eight miles or so, and then turn
-south on U. S. 85 for another five miles. On the way we come
-to Preacher Smith&rsquo;s monument. This has been erected in
-honor of Mr. Smith, Deadwood&rsquo;s first minister.</p>
-<p>The story is told how he came to Deadwood with the
-first settlers when gold was discovered. He preached to whoever
-would listen to him. One day he headed for the vicinity
-of Whitewood to deliver a sermon. He was advised not to
-start out because the Indians were hostile. He insisted that
-his Bible was all the weapon he needed. Today a monument
-stands near where the Indians killed him. Several authors
-have told the story of Preacher Smith. Anyone interested
-in the story should by all means read it from some authentic
-source.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_69">69</div>
-<h2 id="c10">CHAPTER X
-<br />Pine Crest Camp</h2>
-<p>The road from Spearfish rises gradually. At the highest
-point on the road, thirteen miles from Spearfish, the entrance
-to Pine Crest Camp comes into view. This is a really
-beautiful camp. It is one hundred per cent what its name
-implies.</p>
-<p>A camp built over one of the tent floors is comfortable
-even in rainy weather. However, if experience is any teacher,
-it might be said that trying to sleep under a hole in the
-tent roof on a rainy night is a pleasure only to the other
-fellow.</p>
-<p>In the evening, after camp is built and dinner served, a
-walk to the community house proves a worth while venture.
-Pine Crest gives us the heartiest welcome of any place in the
-&ldquo;Hills.&rdquo; In the log community house, (it is a masterpiece
-of masterpieces), a cheerful fire awaits. The ample stone
-fireplace seems doubly welcome on a rainy night. Does it
-feel good? Say!</p>
-<p>In the cabin are gathered a group of high school girls
-from Lead, a family from Kansas City, a Canadian, some
-Ohio people, Texans and several others. And a jolly time we
-have. Stories starts the program. Music follows and a lively
-community dance tops it off. The atmosphere is that of one
-great big family gathered together after a long separation.</p>
-<p>Under the cabin, in a well finished basement are modern
-toilet rooms, a laundry, and shower baths. There is both hot
-and cold water. The whole is free to the tourists who are
-camped in the park. The initial fifty cents a night covers
-the entire cost.</p>
-<p>Our enjoyable evening draws to a close and we return
-to the tent for a good night&rsquo;s rest.</p>
-<p>The experiences from now on are to be on historic
-ground.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_70">70</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig64">
-<img src="images/p034.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="763" />
-<p class="caption">Community House&mdash;Pine Crest Park&mdash;Deadwood, S.D.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_71">71</div>
-<h2 id="c11">CHAPTER XI
-<br />Lead</h2>
-<p>Pine Crest proves to be such a good camp that we decide
-to make it our headquarters for a day or two. In the morning
-we put up a lunch and drive over to Lead. Of course the
-first and foremost point of interest in Lead is Homestake
-Mine. We stop at the Burlington Railway station and register
-for the trip through the mine buildings. It is only a few
-moments before we are ready to start.</p>
-<p>We follow our young lady guide up a steep incline. Half
-way up she stops us and asks us to face about. Clear across
-the gulch on the opposite side of town is a huge cut, where
-the hill is virtually cut in two. This, she tells us is the site
-of the first mine, a surface working. We are told that
-$20,000,000 worth of gold came from this cut.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig65">
-<img src="images/p034a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="493" />
-<p class="caption">Homestake Mills, Lead, S.D.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_72">72</div>
-<p>We go on up the hill to the Ellison shaft, the one now
-being used most extensively. There the ore is coming up
-from the 2300 foot level, by hoists and seven ton cars. It is
-dumped into a conveyor belt, and passes the pickers. We
-go next to see the giant air compressors for maintaining circulation
-of air in the mines.</p>
-<p>The hoist room contains large drums driven by 1400
-horse power electric motors working on direct current. These
-huge affairs bring the heavy cars up from the mine in a very
-short time. Their speed and precision are remarkable, considering
-their enormous size. The room is immaculate.</p>
-<p>From the hoist room we go to the shop where diamond
-drills are sharpened. These are tubular bars of hard iron,
-with hollow centers, and sharp edges on one end in the form
-of a cross. They are used with the electric drill down the
-mine, working on the plan of the electric riveter. When dull
-these points are brought to the surface, pounded into shape
-in a trip hammer, while white hot, and tempered very hard.</p>
-<p>The motor generator which is driven by alternating current
-and delivers direct current is a huge affair. It has to
-be in order to develop enough direct current to drive the
-heavy machinery. Its flywheel alone weighs thirty-five tons.</p>
-<p>In the blacksmith shop all of the blacksmith work of
-the mine is done. Repairs are made, castings are made, gears
-are cut, and iron is pounded into shape. A pair of shears is
-cutting iron &frac34; inch thick for a boiler. The ease with which
-it goes through this mass is astounding. Lathes are plaining
-blocks of iron or gears into shape. These lathes are cutting
-shavings a half-inch thick. In the molding room molten
-iron is being poured into casts, covered with sand, and allowed
-to cool.</p>
-<p>Now comes the real gold mill. The first part we come to
-is the rock crusher or rod mills. From the rod mills the material
-is taken to the stamper, where it is mixed with water.
-The solution passes to dewatering cones and cleaner troughs.
-Rod mills crush the ore to powder, which, with water makes
-a mud. The mud passes through troughs containing mercury.
-Most of the gold leaves the mud and clings to the mercury.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_73">73</div>
-<p>The remaining solution goes to sand slime separation
-cones and then to cyanide tanks. The tanks are filled with
-mud. The water drains off. Cyanide is poured over the
-mass. The cyanide sinks, carrying the remaining gold of the
-crushed ore to the bottom with it. This is reclaimed and the
-mud is washed out and sent down the gulch.</p>
-<p>The trip is an interesting one. The guide now tells us
-that the gold is molded into bricks worth twenty-five to thirty
-thousand dollars. Approximately sixteen are made each
-month.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig66">
-<img src="images/p035.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="431" />
-<p class="caption">B &amp; M. Shop #2<br />One of the buildings of the Homestake Mining Company&rsquo;s<br />Lead, S.D.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Quoting from literature distributed by the mining company
-the following might be of interest:</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The Black Hills are highly mineralized, containing practically
-every known element to a greater or lesser degree.
-Lead is the home of the Homestake mining company, the
-largest gold mining concern in the world. The company has
-been running continuously since 1877 and has taken from the
-ground approximately 56,000,000 tons of ore yielding $200,000,000
-of gold (now over $212,000,000.) In order to produce
-an annual output of $6,000,000 about 2,000 men are
-steadily employed. The average daily output is 43500 tons,
-or 1,750,000 tons annually. There is enough ore blocked out
-to furnish the mills with this many tons a day for nine years.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_74">74</div>
-<p>&ldquo;More than 1,554,117 pounds, or 3,108,234 sticks of 40%
-dynamite was used in 1927, costing over $500 a day. In 1927,
-3,816,724 feet or over 722 miles of fuse was used. If this
-were in one length it would take 971 days, 21 hours and 22
-minutes and 8 seconds for the flame to traverse it. More
-than a million blasts were set off during the year.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The company has never undertaken to furnish houses.
-It has, however, encouraged the building of homes by giving
-free permits to occupy company ground and by advancing
-the purchase price and allowing the employee to pay on
-the monthly payment plan with a low rate of interest on
-deferred payments. After forty years of continuous operation
-as the sole industry of the community there are few
-company owned houses in Lead. Under this policy the town
-has grown from a typical mining camp with its log cabins
-and board shacks, into a modern small city with paved streets,
-sewer and water systems, electric lights and beautiful homes,
-owned largely by their occupants. The grocer, the butcher,
-and the hardware dealer, the clothier and the real estate men
-carry on their business in this mining camp as in an ordinary
-town of equal size. Keen competition keeps prices at a reasonable
-level.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;No part of the welfare work at the Homestake has met
-the needs of the people more fully than the free library,
-originally a Christmas gift from the late Phoebe H. Hearst in
-1894, now carried on through the generosity of her son William
-Randolph Hearst, with present quarters on the second
-floor of the recreation building. Now the library contains
-approximately 14,000 volumes. In the reading room are
-eighty periodicals, of which two are foreign. The close proximity
-of the high school enables the library to render valuable
-assistance to teachers and pupils.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A smoking room is provided for the men, and the children
-have an alcove for their particular use, provided with
-low tables and suitable chairs. One end of the stack room
-is used for mineral exhibits, especially the minerals of the
-Black Hills region.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The Kindergarten, opened in 1900, is also maintained
-by the generosity of the Hearst family.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_75">75</div>
-<p>&ldquo;A small, but well kept park nearby provides a place
-for outdoor play during the summer months. The kindergarten
-has been an inestimable aid to the public school by
-giving the children of foreign birth a start in the English
-language and teaching them something of American ways and
-manners, thus relieving them of the handicap resulting from
-their foreign parentage. It has also proved a large factor
-in Americanizing the parents by both direct and indirect contact
-with the teachers.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The Homestake company, supporting a liberal policy
-toward the schools, feels that it is fully repaid by the stabilizing
-influence on its working force, due to the fact that men
-with families are attracted to Lead on account of its educational
-advantages. Many of the young men who are now
-holding important positions in the shops, mills, assay and
-engineering departments are graduates of the Lead High
-School.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig67">
-<img src="images/p036.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="417" />
-<p class="caption">Old Mine Entrances</p>
-</div>
-<p>&ldquo;The Homestake Recreation Building, built and equipped
-by the Homestake Mining Company at a cost of $250,000 was
-opened to the public in 1914. It is a three story brick and
-stone structure of the latest design and well lighted, heated,
-and ventilated. No expense is spared to make this the recreation
-place of the employes and their families, and all residents
-of Lead are given the same privileges as employes, so
-<span class="pb" id="Page_76">76</span>
-that it is a community house in the fullest sense. No membership
-fee is charged. Everybody is welcome and all are
-treated as special guests by the attendants. The only rules
-posted are those governing the length of time one set of
-players may use the various tables and games, and specifying
-the days when the men, women, and children may use the
-plunge. The average monthly attendance is about 25,000.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;On the first floor of the building is a large rest room
-furnished with easy chairs and lounges with tables for chess,
-cards, and other games, and directly in the rear of this room
-is the billiard room, with two regulation billiard and two
-pocket billiard tables. In alcoves of the rest room are three
-tables for children between the ages of six and sixteen.
-About 2,500 persons play on these tables during the month.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig68">
-<img src="images/p037.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="439" />
-<p class="caption">Mucking<br />April 21, 1933<br />Homestake Mining Co.<br />Working in the gold mines at Lead</p>
-</div>
-<p>&ldquo;Below the rest room is the gymnasium and a bowling
-alley of six alleys equipped with automatic pin setters. Over
-2,000 persons use these alleys each month, including the
-ladies who have one day each week. The gymnasium is well
-equipped, and is also used by two bands as a practice room.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;In the rear of the rest room, and with a separate street
-entrance is a well furnished theatre with a seating capacity
-of 1,000. Moving pictures are shown both afternoon and
-<span class="pb" id="Page_77">77</span>
-evening, with road shows and vaudeville when available. The
-average monthly attendance is about 20,000.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig69">
-<img src="images/p037a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="471" />
-<p class="caption">A view in the cyanide plant of the gold mining plant at Lead</p>
-</div>
-<p>&ldquo;Under the theatre auditorium and directly in the rear
-of the bowling alley is a tank 25&times;75 feet with a depth of
-water ranging from 4 to 9 feet. The plunge and floor are
-lined with white tile. Change rooms, shower baths, and hair
-driers are provided for the bathers. The water is heated,
-filtered, disinfected, and changed frequently. The plunge is
-patronized by approximately 1800 persons per month, about
-equally divided among men, women, girls, and boys.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A small room called the sun room, because of its particularly
-sunny exposure, is used as a meeting place by various
-clubs, societies, and committees.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;There is no charge for the use of any part of the building
-to Homestake employees and their families, or to residents
-of Lead, except for the theatre where a nominal charge is
-made to cover the cost of pictures and other attractions.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The company erected at a cost of more than $60,000
-a thoroughly modern brick hospital of thirty-five bed capacity
-which furnishes absolutely free to its employees and
-their dependents every type of medical, surgical and obstetric
-<span class="pb" id="Page_78">78</span>
-treatment. No charge is made for any hospital care, operating
-fees, or for medicines.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The employees and dependents make very great use of
-this service as shown by the 1922 annual report. Forty-three
-thousand people were taken care of in the dispensary, fourteen
-thousand visits were made at the homes and one hundred
-forty-three confinements were handled.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The Homestake Employees Aid association is an organization
-to help the employees. Also:</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The company retires its old employees on account of old
-age, physical disability, giving them 25% of last year&rsquo;s full
-pay plus $10.00 per year for each year&rsquo;s service with the
-company, but in all not to exceed $600 per year.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;There were 64 men (1928) receiving pensions of from
-$350 to $600 per year. The average age of those receiving
-pensions, at the time of retirement was over 65 and the average
-years service is nearly thirty-one.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig70">
-<img src="images/p038.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="439" />
-<p class="caption">Weighing Gold Bricks in the assay office</p>
-</div>
-<p>&ldquo;A pension is also paid to the widows of new men who
-lost their lives by accident prior to the enactment of the state
-compensation law.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Every effort is made, both in the mine and in the surface
-plants to provide sanitary working conditions. Bubbling
-<span class="pb" id="Page_79">79</span>
-drinking fountains are placed in convenient places both underground
-and in the mills and shops, and provided with clear,
-cold, wholesome water. Clean, well heated and ventilated
-change rooms are provided with hot and cold water and individual
-lockers for clothes. A special underground latrine
-is used in the mine. Ventilation of the underground workings
-is carefully supervised.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Seventy-five per cent of the Homestake employees are
-English speaking nationalities. In the other twenty-five Italians
-predominate.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Many religious denominations are represented in Lead,
-and most of them have an organization and a place of worship.
-The Homestake company makes a yearly contribution
-of $200 to each church holding regular services, and renders
-other material aid in various ways.&rdquo;</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig71">
-<img src="images/p038a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="517" />
-<p class="caption">Tourist Camp</p>
-</div>
-<p>Thus we see that South Dakota, and more specifically
-Lead has an industry not only of enormous size but with the
-most modern and progressive practices known to civilization.
-A trip through it is enough to stimulate the imagination
-rather decisively of anyone mechanically or industrially inclined.
-Here is an organization whose social, industrial, mechanical,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_80">80</span>
-and personnel organization is worked out and administered
-on modern scientific principles, with the interests and
-safety of its employees ever in the fore.</p>
-<p>From the mine we go up the hill through Lead to &ldquo;Mile
-High Camp,&rdquo; where we eat lunch. This camp is a very nice
-camp of little earlier date than some of the others. Jubilee
-camp on the West branch of U. S. 85, just on the edge of
-town is another good camp. It is situated on a very high
-point, overlooking Lead on one side and beautiful tree covered
-mountains, cliffs and valleys, on the other.</p>
-<p>We follow U. S. 85 toward Cheyenne Crossing and Newcastle.
-The road leads through Icebox Canyon. This canyon
-was properly named. Even on this hot July day it is very decidedly
-cool. In addition, it is a beautiful drive. The tall
-stately pines have almost a noble look to them.</p>
-<p>The road leads over long gradual grades, up hills and
-through valleys. There are camps and cabins along this
-route, and the trout fishing is good. Icebox Springs, is a very
-cold spring six miles from Lead and 6270 feet above sea level.
-Here we get a drink of clear, cold water, maintained as such
-without the aid of refrigeration. The spring pours right out
-of the side of the canyon. Terry Peak, within 200 feet of the
-same height as Harney, rises a short distance from the trail.</p>
-<p>This again is historical ground. In the early days the
-Deadwood-Cheyenne stage and treasure coaches traveled over
-this route. Here were the scenes of the early hold-ups, fights
-with bandits, and murders of the stage people.</p>
-<p>Here was the testing ground of civilization. To see the
-present Black Hills one could hardly believe that less than
-fifty years ago it went through the wild formative period of
-outlawry, Indian fighting, and the gold rush. Cheyenne Crossing
-is but a couple of small cabins, a sort of outpost. Here
-we turn about and return to &ldquo;Pine Crest.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>From Lead we take the old mines road back to Deadwood.
-This leaves town near Jubilee camp, making a loop to the
-north. Along the road, just out of Lead are cabins variously
-named: &ldquo;Travellers Rest,&rdquo; &ldquo;Tramp Inn,&rdquo; &ldquo;Saloon,&rdquo; &ldquo;Bucket
-o&rsquo;Blood,&rdquo; &ldquo;Haven of Rest,&rdquo; etc.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_81">81</div>
-<p>Along this road we see remains of old placer mines, mining
-mills, and various other remains of early mining. Most
-of them are now abandoned. Nevertheless one can imagine
-the life that must have been enacted here a few decades ago.
-Central City, and other former thriving cities are now but
-vestiges of what was once the splendor of Deadwood Gulch.
-Now, only an occasional inhabitant and a number of run
-down buildings remain.</p>
-<p>It is almost marvelous to think that a country could
-pass from the extreme of an outlaw West to the highly modern
-civilization that Lead and Deadwood present today. No
-place on earth but the progressive pioneer western community
-with its fertile and indomitable brains could do it.</p>
-<p>At the camp that night part of the crowd of the previous
-night is present, and quite a number of new people. Another
-very enjoyable evening is spent.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig72">
-<img src="images/p039.jpg" alt="Cabin" width="700" height="520" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_82">82</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig73">
-<img src="images/p040.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="641" />
-<p class="caption">Deadwood, today. Located in Deadwood Gulch. Scene of the most exciting of Gold Rush Episodes</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_83">83</div>
-<h2 id="c12">CHAPTER XII
-<br />Deadwood</h2>
-<p>In Deadwood, the next morning we take our way to the
-Franklin Hotel, then south, over the railroad tracks to Mt.
-Moriah Cemetery. We are now, indeed on historic ground.
-Probably it would be well to reiterate some of the setting before
-going up to the cemetery to view the resting place of the
-famous early characters.</p>
-<p>Deadwood was settled in 1876. When gold was discovered
-here approximately 25,000 people rushed for Deadwood.
-Rumor, brought to us through the years, says that within
-twenty-four hours after the city of Custer heard of the Deadwood
-gold discovery its population had decreased from between
-six and ten thousand to less than a hundred people.
-They left on horseback, on foot, by ox team, by stage, and by
-wagon, taking camping and mining equipment with them, and
-stores of food.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig74">
-<img src="images/p040a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="465" />
-<p class="caption">Richard Wm. Clark, and his original cabin<span class="jr"> Bell Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_84">84</div>
-<p>Deadwood was transformed from a gulch full of dead
-timber to a lawless city. The one aim of everybody was gold.
-Some got it in the thousands of industrious mining projects,
-most of them one man or a few men placer mines. Some
-got it by selling food and supplies, some got it by gambling,
-and some by robberies. Deadwood was in a state of wild
-chaos.</p>
-<p>Preacher Smith, or Henry Weston Smith &ldquo;drifted in&rdquo;
-about this time. He had come from the East with the Custer
-gold rush and had migrated north to Deadwood, on foot,
-at the time of the discovery and boom there. He preached
-in the street mostly. He was a Methodist, about forty years
-of age, and of fine physique, quiet and unassuming.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig75">
-<img src="images/p041.jpg" alt="" width="452" height="801" />
-<p class="caption">Deadwood Dick<span class="jr">Bell Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_85">85</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig76">
-<img src="images/p041a.jpg" alt="" width="484" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">The Roosevelt Monument near Deadwood</p>
-</div>
-<p>On August 20, 1876, Smith started for Crook City to
-preach a sermon. He left a note that he would be back at
-3:00 P. M. if God were willing. But God had planned otherwise.
-The Indians killed him on the way. His body was discovered
-soon afterward and was brought to Deadwood. His
-remains now rest in Mt. Moriah Cemetery above Deadwood,
-while his monument stands near where he was killed.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_86">86</div>
-<p>Wild Bill came to Deadwood in June, 1876. He was not,
-as his name might indicate, a desperado, but rather a refined
-enforcer of law and order. His full name was James Butler
-Hicock. He had married a widow whose husband had
-been shot while attempting to prevent some desperadoes
-from forcing an entrance to his wagon show. Wild Bill travelled
-with the show to protect it and finally married the
-widow. With the gold rush he was drawn to Deadwood. His
-wife remained in Cheyenne.</p>
-<p>Wild Bill earned his name by his expert pistol shooting.
-Before coming to the Black Hills he had been employed as
-a government scout, as a hunter of horse thieves, and as a
-gunman law enforcer. He had been hired by Abilene, Kansas,
-at $1,000 a month to clean up the town, and later by Ft.
-Hayes for the same purpose. His speed on the draw saved
-his life many times.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig77">
-<img src="images/p042.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="414" />
-<p class="caption">An Enjoyable drive along a Black Hills Creek</p>
-</div>
-<p>The law respecting faction in Deadwood finally decided
-to organize some form of local government. They did so and
-Wild Bill was suggested for chief of police. The rougher
-lawless element notified him that he would be shot if he did
-not leave town. His friends tried to get him to leave, but
-he was determined to stay. A notorious outlaw stole quietly
-through the side door of a saloon where Bill was playing
-cards, drew his gun, and shot Bill through the back of the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_87">87</span>
-head, killing him instantly. The assassin was tried by his
-friends, acquitted, and permitted to leave the state. He was
-soon re-arrested, convicted, and hanged.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig78">
-<img src="images/p042a.jpg" alt="" width="466" height="801" />
-<p class="caption">Wedge Rock</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_88">88</div>
-<p>Wild Bill is Deadwood&rsquo;s idol. On his gun at the time of
-his death there were thirty-six notches all alleged to have
-been in self defences and law enforcement. His remains, too,
-are interred in Mt. Moriah Cemetery. A Johnny Riordian
-chiseled statues of Preacher Smith and Wild Bill both of
-which now stand at the head of their respective graves.</p>
-<p>Calamity Jane (Martha Jane Cannary) was a woman
-whose life was interwoven with the early history of the Black
-Hills. She was an army scout with General Crook, and later
-a desperate and notorious character as well as an idol of the
-region. Her life story is not that of a self-respecting woman,
-and yet her ideals in her attitude toward her fellow
-beings were very high. She was always ready to share her
-money and provisions with those who needed it. She fought
-Indians and desperadoes as unflinchingly as any man. Her
-aim saved many a man&rsquo;s life, especially from the Indians.
-Once she had to hold up a store to obtain groceries for a family
-who were very ill and out of money. After the family
-were nursed back to health Jane went on her way.</p>
-<p>Calamity Jane had a deep reverence and respect for Wild
-Bill. Her dying request was that she be buried beside him,
-and there, today, her grave is to be found. Her funeral was
-the largest Deadwood has ever seen.</p>
-<p>Not only Deadwood but thousands of visitors climb this
-hill to visit the shrine of these three early idols.</p>
-<p>Now we proceed up the hill to the cemetery. A good
-driver might pilot his car up and down later with comparative
-safety, but the hill is very steep, and ascent by foot might
-be more advisable.</p>
-<p>The cemetery proper is located on the slope of a mountain,
-high up, overlooking the city of Deadwood. From the
-cemetery a path takes us higher and higher, to the very peak
-of the mountain, one mile and six feet high. The peak is of
-bare white rocks, and is so named, &ldquo;White Rocks.&rdquo; It is over
-700 feet higher than the city. The view from here is remarkable.
-Hills, valleys, mountains, and cities are visible
-from the peak on clear days. Here is a worth while mountain
-climb, possible for everyone.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_89">89</div>
-<p>After descending from the cemetery we cross Deadwood
-Gulch right on main street beside the Franklin hotel. We
-take a steep street on the opposite (north) side, and follow a
-winding road up Mt. Roosevelt. The road is steep and precipitous,
-winding and none too wide, though cars can pass
-almost any place with a matter of inches to spare. The lower
-part of the road is good, up to the foot-path. But from there
-up, if one wishes to go by car the driver requires some skill,
-a good horn, and well adjusted brakes. With a little patience,
-and a few hazardous looks down the steep mountain sides we
-reach the summit. If the foot path is taken the trip is
-shorter and less hazardous. These mountain paths are excellent
-for exercise, believe it if you can, or try it.</p>
-<p>The view from Mt. Roosevelt is probably as good or better
-than from any other elevation in the Black Hills. With
-field glasses on a clear day one may see four states from
-here. On the topmost peak of the mountain stands a monument,
-the first ever erected in honor of Theodore Roosevelt.
-It is, we are told, erected in the environment and among the
-scenes that Roosevelt loved. Visitors are requested to leave
-their autographs in a visitor&rsquo;s book within the tower. One
-precaution, do not pick a cold cloudy day to visit Mt. Roosevelt.</p>
-<p>After the return to Deadwood we must by all means
-spend some time in this metropolis of the interior of the
-&ldquo;Hills.&rdquo; The gold rush days are not much in evidence. Deadwood
-is a modern city and a thriving business center. The
-stores, curio shops, and souvenir sellers invite our curiosity,
-and are likely to hold us for sometime. The remains of mines,
-the slag heaps from smelting days, and the open mine shafts
-are indeed curiosities. While in Deadwood we must not forget
-the fine municipal bathing pool and park.</p>
-<p>Here again we might take the Boulder Canyon road or
-leave it as an unseen point of interest.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_90">90</div>
-<h2 id="c13">CHAPTER XIII
-<br />Pactola, Silver City and Camp Wanzer</h2>
-<p>The bed is a welcome place after the mountain climbing.
-Somehow the meals and rest afterward add to the satisfaction
-of these invigorating and inspirational tramps.</p>
-<p>After three enjoyable nights at Pine Crest we leave for
-the central part of the Hills. We take S. D. 85 to the left,
-just before entering Deadwood. The road is an excellent,
-improved highway, bordered by interesting scenery.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig79">
-<img src="images/p043.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="495" />
-<p class="caption">Lights and Shadows Among the Pines<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>We start the trip with an upward climb of six and a half
-miles. This has a tendency somehow to warm up the motor
-a bit. Now we follow a mountain top trail. The scenery is
-beautiful as we skim along over good roads with gentle grades.
-In places the trees are thick, in other places thin. There
-are pines, cottonwood, aspen, spruce, and others. In places
-forest fires have left a devastated appearance. These sights
-<span class="pb" id="Page_91">91</span>
-leave with one a feeling of sadness, that carelessness and
-destruction must claim these great potentialities of usefulness
-and beauty. They leave with us a deeper resolve to &ldquo;Put
-out campfires before leaving them.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>It is thirty-one miles to Pactola on Rapid Creek. Just
-after we cross the creek and before crossing the railroad we
-turn to the right, following the creek, and drive up to Silver
-City. As near as we can find out they do not mine silver
-here. The place is a group of log cabins and is used for a
-summer resort. It is a beautiful little place.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig80">
-<img src="images/p043a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="472" />
-<p class="caption">A Log Cabin<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>Going up the creek we take a winding road, almost a
-path. Along this road are many church and other camps.
-We come to Camp Wanzer a few miles beyond Silver City in
-Bear Canyon.</p>
-<p>Camp Wanzer is not a tuberculosis camp. It is a camp
-for building up physically run-down children. No one with
-tuberculosis or other communicable disease is admitted. The
-plan is to have the children live out here away from vices
-and irregularities of city life, where proper hours, food, exercise
-and supervision may build up their run-down bodies.
-The records show remarkable results. Children are required
-<span class="pb" id="Page_92">92</span>
-to rise at a certain time, observe exercise periods, rest periods,
-to eat wholesome meals at regular times and to sleep enough
-each night. They have a nice swimming hole, too. The children
-enjoy the vacation. They are kept for three to six
-weeks, and in practically every case leave there stronger and
-happier than when they came. A person is highly impressed
-with what this camp means to these children. There were
-fifty-five there in 1928. Children come from all parts of the
-state. Parents pay for it where they can and the Christmas
-seals sale pays for the rest. After seeing where our Christmas
-seal proceeds go we are ever so much more willing and
-even anxious to contribute to the fund.</p>
-<p>We again follow a beautiful mountain stream, Spring
-Creek, through Sheridan and down to Hill City. Along the
-road we find some real rock cliffs running up several hundred
-feet and we can here see the plan of the rock layers,
-thrown in, tilted on edge, the formation which is general
-throughout the Black Hills. At Sheridan there is a good
-looking tourist camp, including cabins.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_93">93</div>
-<h2 id="c14">CHAPTER XIV
-<br />Hill City and Keystone</h2>
-<p>We put up for the night in one of the Hill City cabins.
-These are not in some ways as nice as some of the others,
-but are very comfortable nevertheless. We must try the
-cabins by all means while in the Hills. Most of them cost a
-dollar a night. In them, generally are a bed or two, a cook
-stove, table and cooking utensils, with possibly other conveniences
-including stove wood.</p>
-<p>Hill City is in the heart of the Black Hills. It has excellent
-connections with various cities, fishing grounds and
-places of scenic interest. Sylvan Lake is nine miles distant,
-Rapid City 20, Deadwood 40, Custer 15 and the Game Lodge
-27. Hill City is only a small place, but it is an &ldquo;up and
-coming&rdquo; progressive little town. They believe in advertising,
-and a few of its citizens are rather farsighted in their attitude
-toward visitors. The tourist park is not like some of the
-rest, but it affords shelter and many conveniences. In a few
-years it will be coming to the front.</p>
-<p>We have not been in Hill City long before the &ldquo;filling
-station information bureau&rdquo; tell us that no trip to the Hills
-is complete without a visit to the Keystone mines and Rushmore
-Mountain. So, for them we start. Keystone is about
-ten miles from Hill City. We leave town at the north end,
-over the railroad tracks, headed due east. The road is very,
-very winding. It follows the valley of Battle Creek, going up
-and down over small hills, tributary springs and streams, and
-around rocks. It crosses the railroad no less than sixteen
-times in the ten miles, two times under the track.</p>
-<p>Covering the entire road and surface of the hills is a
-layer of powdered mica. One must pinch himself to see if he
-is actually living and awake and not riding along over the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_94">94</span>
-streets of gold in the hereafter. Maybe some of us had better
-take a good look, for our streets in the next life may be of
-coal dust or cinders.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig81">
-<img src="images/p044.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="733" />
-<p class="caption">White Tail Buck</p>
-</div>
-<p>We stop along the road to collect a few specimens of the
-rocks of this vicinity. We hope that we may pick up some
-rose colored quartz, the rock that is most popular for decorative
-purposes in the &ldquo;Hills.&rdquo; Here an unexpected pleasure
-awaits us. A young fawn is standing across the ravine
-watching us innocently. When we discover it we cannot help
-<span class="pb" id="Page_95">95</span>
-turning to stare, rapt in wonder. Soon a doe, then another,
-and behind them two bucks and more emerge from a thicket.
-One of the bucks raises his front foot and points his muzzle
-toward us. The whole herd turn and bound gracefully out
-of sight. It is a scene that will long remain in our memories.</p>
-<p>Trout fishing is good in Battle Creek and Slate Creek
-on the other side of Hill City.</p>
-<p>Just before reaching Keystone we turn up a side road to
-the right. We come to two very impressive log houses.
-These, we decide, are just the type we would like to build for
-ourselves. We drive in and ask the man in the yard what a
-house like that would cost. Imagine our chagrin when he
-tells us the houses belong to the millionaire owner of the Etta
-Lithia Mine, one of the larger mines of the Hills. The large
-house is the house in which the owner lives for two weeks
-each summer.</p>
-<p>It cost $6,000, we are told. On the inside we find all sorts
-of fishing and other sporting equipment. There is a beautiful
-hardwood floor in the house, running spring water, soft
-rain water from a cistern, a fireplace in each room, rustic
-furniture with bark still on, and even twin beds.</p>
-<p>The other cabin is only slightly less in finish and equipment,
-it being the residence of the manager of the mine.
-The owner lives in New Jersey. The sight of these is highly
-inspirational to those who appreciate this sort of life.</p>
-<p>Upon invitation of the manager we go up into the hills
-to the mine. The road is well improved; it must be to carry
-the great truck loads of ore in all kinds of weather. After a
-little driving we round a bend in the road and gaze upon a
-great ridge of white quartz, probably nearly a hundred feet
-high. As one gazes at it he ponders upon the enormous
-potential wealth of this heap, if it could be put to use. Rumor
-tells us that a glass factory for the Black Hills is not out of
-reason and will probably soon be a reality.</p>
-<p>At present this quartz is an undesirable stuff which must
-be separated from the mineral and piled into great scrap
-heaps. We climb the slope to the top of the ridge where a
-tunnel leads to the open cut spodumene mine.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_96">96</div>
-<p>But before going to the top we might look into the opening
-of the old underground mine.</p>
-<p>A narrow gauge railroad runs into the tunnel. A warning
-is posted against the entrance. A gaze into the tunnel
-however, makes one think the walls are lined with gold. But
-on closer examination the gold turns out to be mica in very
-fine flakes.</p>
-<p>On the top of the quartz pile, just outside the top tunnel
-or the one from the open cut another narrow gauge railroad
-takes the quartz to the end of the dump pile in small ore cars.
-Following the short tunnel through a hill we come to the mine
-proper. It is just a huge hole in the ground, not now worked,
-from which the ore was taken with dynamite, picks, shovels
-and derricks. The useful ore, valued at about fifty dollars a
-ton, stands in the layers of quartz and granite at a tipsy
-angle, like huge tree trunks of pure white. The sight is
-really worth seeing. Spodumene is a substance resembling
-grained rock embedded in quartz and mica but soft enough to
-be crushed in the hand. It is raised from the cut, emptied
-into cars and carried through the tunnel where it is dumped
-into a long chute. When the chute gets filled up, trucks back
-under the gate at the lower end, fill up with the mineral
-and take it to the railroad cars at Keystone. From here it is
-shipped east, where lithium oxide is made of it for storage
-batteries.</p>
-<p>Going from the Etta Mine up, over the next rise, we
-come to the Juga Feldspar Mine. This, too, is an open cut
-mine in the top of a mountain.</p>
-<p>The feldspar, used for enamel in lining bathtubs and
-making dishes, is found, mined, loaded and shipped much as
-is the lithia. Valuable by-products of the mine, mica,
-tourmaline and lepidolite and others are found in small quantities.</p>
-<p>Back through the valley we go and up the opposite slope
-to a mica mine. This, too, is an open cut, the men working
-in the shade of a large tarpaulin awning. Slabs of mica varying
-from small scraps to large sheets are all loaded in the
-chute, hauled to Keystone and shipped east.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_97">97</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig82">
-<img src="images/p045.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="473" />
-<p class="caption">Rushmore Mountain, near Keystone. Upon the abrupt face of this mountain Borglum, the sculptor, is carving the Statues of Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Roosevelt<span class="jr">Rise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>We go down from the mines and take a winding road up
-to Rushmore Mountain. On the way we try fishing. Here one
-of the most exasperating experiences of the trip takes place.
-I peered into the clear stream and spied a beautiful speckled
-<span class="pb" id="Page_98">98</span>
-beauty of somewhat larger than average proportion. Carefully
-I sent a fly up to him, but he was not interested. I
-tried every fly I had with the same result. Then I sent him
-a nice, fresh, green grasshopper, then a yellow one. Mr.
-Trout never batted an eye. I then offered him a frog leg.
-He only wagged his tail as though amused. The last resort
-was a nice juicy worm. I trailed it down the stream until it
-bumped him on the nose. That dumb trout was too lazy to
-even open his mouth. Possibly I misjudge him. He may
-have just had lunch, but at any rate he should have shown
-some interest in an extra bite. Well, I decided that if he was
-going to have his laugh on me, I&rsquo;d get even with him.</p>
-<p>I took my fishing rod and gave him a real poke in the
-ribs. I had the satisfaction of seeing him wake up rather
-hurriedly and disappear upstream.</p>
-<p>On the way up to Rushmore we see a large leaning rock
-with a tree growing out of the top of it. This is only one of
-the phenomena of the &ldquo;Hills&rdquo; that fires the curiosity of the
-visitor.</p>
-<p>The road up to Rushmore is on a mountain facing the
-one being carved. It is steep and winding. Cars go up several
-miles, but it is quite a climb. At the top is a long cable
-over which supplies are transported to the top of Rushmore.
-The carving is just begun. It has been discontinued for lack
-of funds, much to the regret of the people of the &ldquo;Hills&rdquo; and
-of South Dakota. If the work is finished it will be a monument
-of no mean calibre and a shrine for tourists. We did
-not take the footpath to the top, though such can be done.
-By climbing the steep precipitous crags facing it one gets a
-remarkable view of the grand and majestic bald peak.</p>
-<p>From Rushmore we go on to Keystone. On the road we
-see abandoned gold mines and some still running. Within
-the town we come to the Keystone Consolidated Mines. At
-present they operate three gold mines with the main mill,
-the Columbia, the Keystone and the Holy Terror. Two stories
-are told of the naming of the last. One is that its inaccessibility
-clear up in the mountain top is responsible. The other
-is that the discoverer&rsquo;s wife insisted that he name the mine
-after her. The miner went to take out his claim and when
-<span class="pb" id="Page_99">99</span>
-he returned he answered, to his wife&rsquo;s insistent queries, &ldquo;yes,
-he had named the mine after her,&rdquo; and he showed her the
-papers.</p>
-<p>Going on through Keystone we stop at a miner&rsquo;s house,
-and he shows us many kinds of ore including tin, tourmaline,
-spodumene, copper, topaz, several kinds of quartz, gold, ruby
-studded rocks and so on. We cross the creek then and pick
-up our own specimens of rubies.</p>
-<p>Now we go back to Hill City and from there up a long
-gradual incline into the most noted scenic spot of the Black
-Hills.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig83">
-<img src="images/p046.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="474" />
-<p class="caption">Rugged Formations</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_100">100</div>
-<h2 id="c15">CHAPTER XV
-<br />Needles Road, Sylvan Lake, Harney and the Gorge</h2>
-<p>The road winds through the needle rocks, amid beautifully
-vegetated valleys and mountains to Sylvan Lake.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig84">
-<img src="images/p047.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="440" />
-<p class="caption">Cathedral Spires. Granite peaks in the Black Hills<span class="jr">Lease Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>These roads are the much talked of feats of engineering
-skill. We can easily see why they are so considered. No
-barrier, no matter how formidable has proved indominable.
-In some places the road is merely a shelf on the side of a
-mountain. The rock is blasted out and the nice wide road, the
-perfect replica of our modern prairie highways, surfaced, is
-superimposed upon it. Slopes are gradual, the road wide
-enough for safety anywhere, and every other means of convenience
-to motorists has been considered. In one place there
-are possibly a half dozen switchbacks making it possible for
-a person to ascend a high mountain by gradual ascent on the
-shelf-like road, switchback and ascend more, almost straight
-above the road over which he has just come. You can look
-over the brink of the chasm and see several laps of the road
-up which you have come, and can look above and see the
-shelves built up there, over which you are to go before you
-reach the top. Marvelous, indeed, are the means that man
-through the divine guidance of a higher Being, we are forced
-to believe, has devised for overcoming the seemingly impossible
-problems. And the view from the road is marvelous.
-The great majestic stone mountains, the broad, deep, beautiful
-valleys, the swift tumbling mountains streams, fed by
-mountain springs, the so-called Needles, and last the sense of
-conquering all these, affords a feeling almost beyond description
-to the soul of the traveler.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_101">101</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig85">
-<img src="images/p047a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="442" />
-<p class="caption">The &ldquo;Needles Highway&rdquo; in Custer State Park</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig86">
-<img src="images/p047b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="380" />
-<p class="caption">The Switchback on the Needles Road<br />A highway among the Needles of the Black Hills<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_102">102</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig87">
-<img src="images/p048.jpg" alt="" width="464" height="801" />
-<p class="caption">Stop on Needles Highway</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig88">
-<img src="images/p048a.jpg" alt="" width="463" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Through Iron Creek Tunnel</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig89">
-<img src="images/p048b.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="416" />
-<p class="caption">Sylvan Lake, as you round the turn</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_103">103</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig90">
-<img src="images/p048c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="494" />
-<p class="caption">A Horseshoe Turn, Needles Road<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>We drive down through heavily wooded roads to the lake,
-the most widely advertised place in the Black Hills. Sylvan
-Lake is about a half mile in length, located right in the top of
-the mountains. It owes its size to the fact that its north
-end is made up of a dam filling the gorge through which the
-water tumbled in its course from its mountain streams,
-through Sunday Gulch to Spring Creek.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_104">104</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig91">
-<img src="images/p049.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="588" />
-<p class="caption">Sylvan Lake, and the Cliffs</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_105">105</div>
-<p>The lake is a beautiful one, bounded by tall, cold, gray
-stones, majestically reaching for the sky, and fringed with
-luxuriant forest trees. On one side of the lake is the Sylvan
-Lake Hotel and on the other side is the camp grounds. The
-Indians have named the lake &ldquo;Karanip&rdquo; or &ldquo;Tear of the
-Mountain.&rdquo; We go directly to the camp grounds and get
-settled for the night. The camp is not overequipped with
-conveniences, but is nevertheless a good camp, with a little
-store conveniently close.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig92">
-<img src="images/p049a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="416" />
-<p class="caption">The Swans</p>
-</div>
-<p>We go to bed early so that we may get up early for the
-ascent of Harney Peak. Even with the early retiring three
-A. M. comes rather soon. But we are all life as soon as we
-awaken and we lose no time. Well shod we begin the ascent.
-This is to be an event. The climb covers three miles and a
-half. You&rsquo;ll be ready to agree with me after making it,
-though these Black Hills people are very generous in the
-size of their miles. We start up the road marked &ldquo;Harney
-Peak.&rdquo; We could take our car part way, but the short distance
-and rough road makes this a poor policy.</p>
-<p>We soon come to the stables where burros and ponies
-can be hired by those not wishing to make the trip on foot.
-These are not for the early or the ambitious. We pass them
-by.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_106">106</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig93">
-<img src="images/p050.jpg" alt="" width="970" height="600" />
-<p class="caption">Reflection at Sylvan Lake<span class="jr">Stevens</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>The path soon begins to ascend. Progress becomes slower.
-The perfect road narrows into a footpath cut through
-the timber.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_107">107</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig94">
-<img src="images/p050a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="514" />
-<p class="caption">Cathedral Spires, from Harney Peak<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig95">
-<img src="images/p050b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="503" />
-<p class="caption">Harney Peak, Lookout Station, and Peak Inn<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_108">108</div>
-<p>Up, up we go. At places the timber clears, giving us a
-grand view of the surrounding country. Then we plunge into
-the forest again and continue up, up, up. At the end of a
-mile or so we top a ridge and are relieved to begin descending
-into a shallow valley. This is a rest and encouraging. At the
-bottom of the valley is a brooklet of clear spring water. Here
-we take a drink before continuing our ascent.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig96">
-<img src="images/p051.jpg" alt="" width="458" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Peak Inn<span class="jr">Beard Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>Now we begin a real climb. The path is easy and open
-and the slope is gradual. But even at that it begins to tax
-one&rsquo;s muscles. Squirrels and chipmunks dart across the path
-and gaze at the intruders from a safe perch in the trees. And
-some of these trees are giants, probably the largest found in
-the Hills. Springs arise here and there along the way. Beautiful
-<span class="pb" id="Page_109">109</span>
-flowers dot the path. Great gray rocks jut into the air
-at intervals. The path is indeed interesting. The coolness
-of the forest adds to its entrancing powers.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig97">
-<img src="images/p051a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="596" />
-<p class="caption">Another View of Harney Peak Look-out Station<span class="jr"> Photo by Beard</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>By and by the path grows steeper and we begin to take a
-switchback course up, up, up. Finally the vegetation thins
-out and the surface is mostly rock. We climb the rocks and
-at last emerge at the foot of a ladder leading up the crags
-where the fire lookout house is located. Up the ladder we go,
-and over the rocks toward the top. We catch a glimpse of
-the ranger giving us a dirty look as he hurriedly finishes his
-breakfast and makes up his bed. We give him plenty of time,
-while we gaze in four directions at the remarkable panorama
-extending a hundred miles before us. The sun, which we had
-expected to see rising, is smiling indulgently at us from far
-up in the sky. To the west we see Sylvan Hotel, mountains and
-forests. Turning toward the south we find ourselves looking
-at the historical Custer and on past into Wyoming. Far, far,
-to the south is the border of the hills. Closer are the Needles
-and Cathedral Spires and Mt. Coolidge. On to the east, fifty
-miles away and more, are the Badlands. Closer Mt. Rushmore
-sticks up its head as do various other bald heads. Away
-off to the northeast Bear Butte stands alone and to his left
-are Roosevelt Peak, Terry Peak and many of our other
-friends.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_110">110</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig98">
-<img src="images/p052.jpg" alt="" width="599" height="1000" />
-<p class="caption">The Cliffs, Below Harney Peak, Sylvan Lake, S.D.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_111">111</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig99">
-<img src="images/p052a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="417" />
-<p class="caption">One way of climbing Harney</p>
-</div>
-<p>The view is nothing short of wonderful on a clear day,
-but is not as good when the clouds float below us or when the
-air is filled with mist. We go on up to the lookout station
-and register. Of course, we must ask the ranger our share
-of foolish questions. We would not be human if we did not
-display our ignorance up here. We just naturally feel that
-we must ask some kind of a question to commemorate the
-fact that we are up here.</p>
-<p>We are now on the highest point in the Black Hills. Not
-only this, it is the highest point in the state and greater still,
-the highest point in the United States east of the Rocky
-Mountains. We are 7,244 feet above sea level and about a
-thousand feet above Sylvan Lake. This little house away up
-on the top of a rock looks pretty frail beside the boulders
-upon which it stands. One would think that a breeze would
-blow it over the precipice hundreds of feet straight down.
-The house, though, is pretty well established, with heavy steel
-cables firmly rooting it to its place. Even at that, they&rsquo;d
-better not hire a forest ranger up there who walks in his
-sleep.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_112">112</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig100">
-<img src="images/p053.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="606" />
-<p class="caption">Airplane View of Harney Peak<span class="jr"> Rise Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_113">113</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig101">
-<img src="images/p053a.jpg" alt="" width="458" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Looking Down the Gorge below Sylvan Lake</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig102">
-<img src="images/p053b.jpg" alt="" width="467" height="801" />
-<p class="caption">Farther down the Gorge</p>
-</div>
-<p>We are given a card telling us that in the &ldquo;Harney National
-Forest 20,000,000 board feet of lumber is harvested
-annually and through reforestation about 1,587,667,000 board
-feet are maintained permanently. 12,000 horses and cattle
-and 4,000 sheep graze on the forest annually. The area (net)
-<span class="pb" id="Page_114">114</span>
-is 508,000,057 acres. The annual revenue to the United
-States is $80,000 and to local counties $20,000. Summer sites
-may be secured from the Supervisor at Custer, S. D.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The lookout away up here is for the purpose of spotting
-forest fires.</p>
-<p>In the little house are instruments for seeing and exactly
-locating fires. By getting the exact angle of fires from two
-different stations and telephoning the results its location may
-be determined exactly by drawing a line at these angles
-from their respective stations. The fire would be where the
-lines crossed.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig103">
-<img src="images/p054.jpg" alt="" width="469" height="799" />
-<p class="caption">Guardian of the Pools, Sylvan Lake, S.D.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_115">115</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig104">
-<img src="images/p054a.jpg" alt="" width="479" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">A Canyon in the Black Hills<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_116">116</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig105">
-<img src="images/p055.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="444" />
-<p class="caption">Reception Room, Sylvan Lake<span class="jr">O&rsquo;Neill Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>Well, we are the first up there this morning and now we
-prepare to descend. We start down the rocks and meet several
-people coming up, they, too, thinking they had been first
-up this morning. We must take a few pictures before going
-down to convince the folks at home that we&rsquo;ve climbed Harney.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig106">
-<img src="images/p055a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="415" />
-<p class="caption">Dining Room, Sylvan Lake Hotel, Custer, S.D.<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_117">117</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig107">
-<img src="images/p055b.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="592" />
-<p class="caption">Sylvan Lake in the Winter</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_118">118</div>
-<p>Down we go, down the ladder and around the corner to
-Peak Inn. Here refreshments and souvenirs may be procured.
-These have all been brought up the mountain by burroes at
-some little expense. An interesting trip, they tell us, is to
-make the return trip through Cathedral Spires. We, however,
-do not do this.</p>
-<p>The descent can be made in a little less time than the
-ascent. Some short cuts can be made directly across where
-contours and cutbacks had to be made going up. Going down
-is decidedly easier than going up. All the way down we meet
-puffing folks; some fat, some tall, some carrying babies, all
-asking the same question, &ldquo;How much farther?&rdquo; Many a
-good natured joke is exchanged on the way. We meet troopers
-as well as pedestrians. The former seem about as anxious
-to reach the top as those walking. Perhaps those experienced
-in riding burros and trail ponies understand the
-reason for this.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig108">
-<img src="images/p056.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="491" />
-<p class="caption">You Tell &rsquo;em we are Traveling.<br />Tobogganing. Winter Carnival, Sylvan Lake, S.D.<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_119">119</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig109">
-<img src="images/p056a.jpg" alt="" width="485" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Looking Down the Toboggan Slide<br />Winter Carnival, Sylvan Lake S.D.<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_120">120</div>
-<p>Seven miles, at least, the round trip is quite a hike, but
-for those who can stand it (and this includes most of us), it
-is by far the better method of going up. Each one who
-makes it feels proud of the accomplishment. One boy about
-seven years of age remarked, &ldquo;By Gawsh, I didn&rsquo;t need to
-make it on any donkey. My own feet are good enough for
-me.&rdquo; Well, we finally come to the stables again. We have
-met possibly fifty people going up and more are just starting.
-Some burros are all saddled and bridled, sleepily waiting for
-the start. Temptation prompts us to mount for a picture,
-even though our friends do insist on asking, &ldquo;Now which is
-which?&rdquo;</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig110">
-<img src="images/p057.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="526" />
-<p class="caption">The Needles Highway. This is indeed a feat of engineering</p>
-</div>
-<p>We arrive back in camp about five hours after we had
-started up. Pancakes, bacon and eggs are awaiting us. The
-question &ldquo;are we hungry?&rdquo; is a mild way of putting it. Food
-seems to disappear like magic, not just a little but great
-quantities of it. This little stroll seems to make one ravenously
-hungry and we derive genuine satisfaction from this
-meal. Somehow our fatigue seems to be appeased with our
-hunger.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_121">121</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig111">
-<img src="images/p057a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="489" />
-<p class="caption">&ldquo;The Switchback&rdquo; along the &ldquo;Needles Highway&rdquo; in Custer State Park</p>
-</div>
-<p>Now we are ready for an inspection of the lake and its
-surroundings. The swans are the first things that draw our
-attention. They are beautiful, floating over the silvery surface.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_122">122</div>
-<p>Many are the fishermen trying for croppies and trout
-from the edge of the lake. Some have substantial strings
-of fish, too.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig112">
-<img src="images/p058.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="439" />
-<p class="caption">Custer State Park Highway<br />A typical scene along the Needles Highway</p>
-</div>
-<p>We take our leisurely way around the lake and find dozens
-of cars before the hotel. We join the group who are
-inspecting the souvenir shop and the hotel lobby. Both are
-interesting; both containing many curios from the hills. The
-hotel is especially interesting, and we must by all means take
-a meal with its charming host and hostess. We now go back
-through a slit in a rock to the gorge behind the dam. The
-first thing we see and hear is the water gurgling out of
-Gorge Springs and over the dam. From here we pick our
-way over the great boulders to the precipice where the water
-tumbles into the narrow gorge. What boy or girl or grownup
-is not thrilled by the descent, sometimes on foot, sometimes
-dangling sometimes crawling between huge rocks (the largest
-in the hills) sometimes leaping chasms, through dark holes
-around seemingly blind bends, finally emerging on the rocks
-far below, without having fallen off the rocks or getting our
-feet wet. Oh boy! it&rsquo;s certainly great. We are now in the
-home of the elves. We can follow the stream down, down,
-until our view opens out far to the north.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_123">123</div>
-<p>We pick our way back and take a new route far up
-through the crags, towering above Sylvan Lake. Here again
-we get a marvelous view of the surrounding territory. Reluctantly
-we descend again, only to climb the crags on the
-opposite side of the gorge. Down again, we find our muscles
-getting a trifle fatigued.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig113">
-<img src="images/p058a.jpg" alt="" width="466" height="799" />
-<p class="caption">A Needles Scene<span class="jr">Canedy Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>We go back to camp near evening, having eaten lunch
-in the gorge. Now we get our dinner. Needless to say we
-are ready for it. We have packed several days&rsquo; experiences
-into a day. And it has been a memorable day. We spend the
-night and then start over that world&rsquo;s renowned Needles Highway.
-The entrance is made through a gigantic gateway of
-towering rocks. A huge tunnel is blasted through one rock.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_124">124</div>
-<p>We must drive back to the wide ledge and park our car
-while we gaze over the edge of the precipice and past the
-great valleys to the high mountains of stone Needles in all
-directions. The view is indeed one to remember. The feeling
-of the grandeur of nature that this leaves with us is
-something that lives with us forever.</p>
-<p>We pass on over this remarkable road cut through the
-mountain tops. The Needles Highway is all it is reputed to
-be. But one must take it slowly and stop to admire it to
-fully appreciate it.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig114">
-<img src="images/p059.jpg" alt="" width="630" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">A Pleasant Drive</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_125">125</div>
-<h2 id="c16">CHAPTER XVI
-<br />Custer</h2>
-<p>We go off to the left a few miles to the State Game
-Lodge. This is the famous Summer White House of President
-Coolidge. Before we reach it we see a fine group of elk
-along the road and another of deer. The latter bound gracefully
-into a thicket when we stop to watch them. Along this
-road are several tourist camps. Galena and the Game Lodge
-are the larger ones.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig115">
-<img src="images/p059a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="522" />
-<p class="caption">The Switchback on the Needles Road<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_126">126</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig116">
-<img src="images/p060.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="799" />
-<p class="caption">One of the Tunnels</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_127">127</div>
-<p>We will leave the game lodge and zoo, however, and take
-them in our return from Hot Springs. Accordingly we take
-trail 36 back to Custer, about twenty miles. A few miles
-before we come to Custer we find a tall stone shaft rising
-beside the road. A bronze plate attached to it tells us that
-this is a monument erected to the memory of Mrs. Anna D.
-Tallent, the first white woman in the Hills. To the right,
-down a lane a few rods is a reconstructed replica of the old
-Gordon Stockade. The saplings are driven into the ground,
-spiked on top, just as the old fort had been. Within the
-inclosure are a couple of buildings, one where the Tallents
-lived and one where other folks of the party had lived.
-French Creek flows just south of the stockade.</p>
-<p>Just when gold was discovered in the Hills is a question.
-Probably it was before 1850, or shortly thereafter.
-One tale runs that a party of sixteen left the California Trail
-at Fort Laramie in 1852 because friendly Indians reported
-gold in the Black Hills.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig117">
-<img src="images/p060a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="532" />
-<p class="caption">Restoration of the old Gordon Stockade built to protect the people from the Indians</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_128">128</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig118">
-<img src="images/p061.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="446" />
-<p class="caption">Deer in the Forest Reserve in South Dakota</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig119">
-<img src="images/p061a.jpg" alt="Buffalo" width="800" height="398" />
-</div>
-<p>The men journeyed north, trying several places to mine
-for gold. They got small quantities until they finally ended
-up near Deadwood. There the quantity became greater, and
-the men were elated. Three of the men started back to tell
-the people at Salt Lake City of their good fortune. The remainder
-kept on prospecting. One day one of those remaining
-went out to shoot a deer for meat. Upon his return the
-camp was in flames and the scalps of his comrades dangled
-at the ends of poles carried by the Indians. The man made
-sure that none of the party remained but himself, and he
-started out for the trail to the south. After terrible hardships,
-out of matches, with no ammunition left, living off
-berries and roots, he arrived at the trail too late for the last
-train of the season. His boots were soleless and his clothing
-in tatters. He hobbled on, and finally came almost at
-death&rsquo;s door to a Mormon hunting party. They brought him
-slowly back to life and strength and he told them his story.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_129">129</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig120">
-<img src="images/p061b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="378" />
-<p class="caption">Record of early gold seekers in Black Hills, 1833-34&mdash;forty years before Custer&rsquo;s expedition to the Hills. Stone found near Spearfish in 1887 and now in possession of State Historical Society, Pierre, South Dakota</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_130">130</div>
-<p>The story of Ezra Kind is probably true. His Sandstone
-Carved with a jack-knife was found hidden among some rocks
-on Lookout Mountain. Indian traditions bear out the story.
-Much gold was taken by the Indians when the men were
-killed.</p>
-<p>The Gordon Stockade party, however, was the party that
-started the rush to the Hills. One of General Custer&rsquo;s mining
-engineers Horatio N. Ross found gold along French Creek
-near the present city of Custer, on July 27, 1874. William
-T. McKay shares honors with Ross. As soon as Custer&rsquo;s report
-came out the government issued orders that no white
-people would be permitted to enter the Black Hills until a
-treaty could be made with the Indians, for this was guaranteed
-a hunting ground for them when the eastern land was
-wrested from them.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig121">
-<img src="images/p062.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="447" />
-<p class="caption">The first cabin built in the Black Hills<br />Now standing in Custer, S.D.</p>
-</div>
-<p>The Gordon party like many others decided to try to
-break through the troops and start mining gold. The party
-consisted of twenty-six men, one woman, and her son. They
-left Sioux City in October of 1874. They suffered many
-hardships in the trip, crossing the Badlands, swimming the
-Cheyenne River, and overcoming innumerable difficulties.
-They kept ever on, confident that they would all become millionaires
-<span class="pb" id="Page_131">131</span>
-as a result of the expedition. They met Indians to
-whom they had to give much of their food. They finally
-struck the Hills near Sturgis and from there took General
-Custer&rsquo;s trail south to Custer City. They arrived on French
-Creek December 23, built the stockade, and began panning
-for gold. They found paying quantities. In the meantime
-the government troops were trying in vain to follow the complicated
-trail that the party had purposely planned to lead
-them astray. A blizzard set in, finally, obliterating the trail.
-The party got together enough gold and on February 6, 1875
-Gordon and one of the other men started for Sioux City with
-it on horseback. Sioux City went wild upon the arrival of
-the men with the bag of gold tied on a saddle horn. They
-immediately sent another expedition to the Hills. This party,
-however, was taken by government troops and their property
-was confiscated.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig122">
-<img src="images/p062a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="451" />
-<p class="caption">Museum, Custer<span class="jr">O&rsquo;Neill Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>The Indians reported to the military authorities the
-presence of the white people in the Hills, and on April 4, 1875,
-the troops found the settlers, and gave them 24 hours to get
-ready to leave as prisoners for Fort Laramie, Wyoming.</p>
-<p>Three times parts of the expedition tried to escape and
-go back to the stockade, but each time they were rearrested
-and brought back. The third time, however, they escaped
-<span class="pb" id="Page_132">132</span>
-while being brought back and succeeded in reaching the stockade.
-Mrs. Tallent, herself, finally, the next year succeeded
-in returning to Custer, later going to Deadwood and Rapid
-City. There she became County Superintendent of Schools.</p>
-<p>Miners found their way into Custer from all directions
-in 1875 in spite of the government troops. Mining in the
-Black Hills had come to stay.</p>
-<p>Thus runs the story of the Gordon Stockade and Tallent
-monument, and their significance in the early life in the Hills.
-Their principals started Black Hills History.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig123">
-<img src="images/p063.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="470" />
-<p class="caption">The expedition camped in a valley<span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>We proceed to the municipal camp upon the hill past the
-town, and there pitch our tent. A storm is brewing. We
-hurry along, getting dinner over early. Then we go into the
-fine community building to get acquainted. There we meet
-a young man who has just graduated from the School of
-Mines and has accepted a position in the deserts of California
-where he is to develop certain mineral deposits owned by a
-large corporation of Oakland.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_133">133</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig124">
-<img src="images/p063a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="442" />
-<p class="caption">Placer Mining&mdash;Deadwood Gulch<br />Mining gold in the Black Hills in 1876</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig125">
-<img src="images/p063b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="453" />
-<p class="caption">A Custer street in the Early Days</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_134">134</div>
-<p>This young man shows us a case containing 205 minerals.
-They include practically all of the world&rsquo;s minerals except
-some of the valuable ones such as diamonds and radium. He
-proceeds to tell us the story of the formation of the Hills. He
-tells us that in eons past there was a terrific granite upheaval.
-The layers were higher than they now are. Gradually
-they eroded and mineral bearing ores washed down
-between the crevices of granite. This left the great sloping
-layers of granite and minerals that we now find.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig126">
-<img src="images/p064.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="408" />
-<p class="caption">A Typical Log Cabin</p>
-</div>
-<p>After an interesting evening we retire, just before the
-storm breaks. It rains, while we sleep on.</p>
-<p>The next morning having heard that log summer cabins
-could be built upon land leased from the government, we proceeded
-to the offices of the Harney National Forest Service
-Supervisor to learn the details. He tells us that the United
-States has surveyed sites along several streams, and South
-Dakota has done the same in the State Park. These sites
-are in the more desirable parts of the Hills, readily accessible
-from main roads. The government surveys the land and
-stakes out a group of plots in a line. These are leased to
-those desiring summer home sites at ten dollars a year, or
-fifteen if the site is to be sublet. The forest service marks
-certain trees which may be cut and used for making log
-cabins. These trees, used for building are sold to the lessee
-<span class="pb" id="Page_135">135</span>
-at 2&frac12; to 3 cents per lineal foot, depending upon the size.
-Thus a cabin amounts to a comparatively few dollars, and
-the annual fee is but few more.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig127">
-<img src="images/p064a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="746" />
-<p class="caption">General Custer&rsquo;s camp in 1874<span class="jr">Photo by Illinworth, official photographer on the expedition</span><span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>The supervisor shows us maps which are made of the
-sites surveyed. Several fine sites are available on Rapid
-Creek, Spring Creek, French Creek, Battle Creek, Sunday
-Gulch, Sunday Creek, Chinaman&rsquo;s Gulch, St. Elmo, and Balser
-Gulch. They are close to Custer, Hill City, Rapid City, the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_136">136</span>
-Game Lodge, and Sylvan Lake. Other sites, he informs us,
-are available at Spearfish through the Black Hills National
-Forest Service&rsquo;s office.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig128">
-<img src="images/p065.jpg" alt="" width="726" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Custer Enroute<span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>Cabins have been built on many such sites. They are
-made of logs interlocked at the corners and chinked with
-oakum or filled with concrete, reinforced with barbed wire.
-One cannot help &ldquo;falling for&rdquo; them with their rustic construction,
-beautiful stone fireplaces, and attractive sites. We cannot
-help determining to come back to build a cabin for summer
-<span class="pb" id="Page_137">137</span>
-and for hunting season. Rustic furniture may be built
-for equipment and other features to suit the fancy of the occupant.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig129">
-<img src="images/p065a.jpg" alt="" width="632" height="700" />
-<p class="caption">The Expedition in Formation<span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>We leave the office filled with inspiration and wend our
-way toward the old museum cabin. On the way we pass a
-cabin built of Black Hills stone mounted in concrete with a
-beautiful fireplace of rose quartz, crystals, petrified wood,
-petrified moss, mica and tourmaline extending clear to the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_138">138</span>
-ceiling. The effect is really one of splendor. Within the
-house are souvenirs of all kinds made of Black Hills stones,
-set in concrete. The place is one that should not be passed
-up. The Rose Quartz Soda Fountain is another rare sight.
-The whole town is filled with these beautiful mounted stones,
-even to the bridge lamp posts.</p>
-<p>We reach the little cabin for which we have started and
-see the date 1875 on its gable.</p>
-<p>Outside the door is a sluice box or pan used in the early
-days to pan gold. This is quite a curio. The gold, after going
-through a screen made of copper filled with nail holes, was
-supposed to stick on the sloping canvas bottom and let the
-water on through.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig130">
-<img src="images/p066.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="476" />
-<p class="caption">Camp on French Creek<span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>Within the house is a great collection of early weapons,
-seats, pictures, an old wooden tombstone, saddles, implements,
-an ox yoke, rocks, horns, stuffed birds and beasts of that
-region and on the wall newspaper clippings of the early days.
-These relics are worth much time and thought. The newspaper
-clippings are colorful accounts of early shootings,
-<span class="pb" id="Page_139">139</span>
-hangings, holdups and gold discoveries. Interesting? Say,
-just start on them and try to tear yourself away.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig131">
-<img src="images/p066a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="687" />
-<p class="caption">A camp scene<span class="jr">Courtesy of South Dakota Historical Society</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>One placard reads in part as follows: &ldquo;This cabin, the
-oldest in the Black Hills, was built by the U. S. troops under
-General Crook in 1875. Visitors to the Black Hills were not
-welcomed here in those days. The Indians, who then owned
-the land, did their best to discourage them from coming and
-removed the scalps of such of them as fell into their hands
-<span class="pb" id="Page_140">140</span>
-to mark their disapproval of their presence here. The U. S.
-Army, when they caught any gold seekers attempting to enter
-the Hills, burned their wagons and outfits and escorted them
-to Fort Laramie as prisoners.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig132">
-<img src="images/p067.jpg" alt="" width="682" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">What the Black Hills looked like to Custer&rsquo;s Expedition</p>
-</div>
-<p>&ldquo;In spite of all efforts to keep miners from entering the
-Hills, many, in less than a year from the time that the discovery
-of gold on French Creek had been made by General
-<span class="pb" id="Page_141">141</span>
-Custer&rsquo;s expedition, had reached Custer city and were busy
-prospecting the country in all directions.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Then came General Crook with troops and ordered all
-the miners who were in the Hills to vacate the country by
-August 10, 1875. While the troops were here they built this
-cabin, etc., etc., etc.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>We leave the cabin and saunter over to the gold discovery
-monument just west of it. This is a beautiful thing of Black
-Hills rocks and cement, with a bronze plate upon it denoting
-its significance.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig133">
-<img src="images/p067a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="520" />
-<p class="caption">Community Cabin, Custer</p>
-</div>
-<p>North of Main Street is the huge log community house,
-probably the largest in the Black Hills. It is a gigantic thing
-and very impressive. We strike camp at noon and leave town
-by the west road. We are taking 85 to Minnekahta and U. S.
-18 from there on to Edgemont. Possibly this is an ill-advised
-trip, but we make it nevertheless, hoping to see the petrified
-forest. In this we are not altogether successful.</p>
-<p>We pass the state tuberculosis sanitarium composed of
-many pure white buildings. The place is very impressive, but
-we do not stop.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_142">142</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig134">
-<img src="images/p068.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="410" />
-<p class="caption">Sawdust Pile, Custer</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig135">
-<img src="images/p068a.jpg" alt="" width="462" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Petrified Log, Edgemont</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_143">143</div>
-<p>Our next point of interest is the large sawmill beside
-the road. The huge blower and sawdust pile seen in the
-picture give us some idea of its size. The main rip saws are
-in gangs of three cutting boards one and two inches in thickness.
-Cross cut blades cut boards into the longest possible
-sizes. The bark and refuse slabs are fed into the fire to
-make steam to run the plant. We do not see any fine work
-or finishing here.</p>
-<p>We pass on through Pringle. A short distance from
-here we find some interesting specimens which look like petrified
-acorns or small nuts embedded in limestone. But the
-next is the most peculiar specimen of all. As we cross the
-railroad well on the way from Pringle to Minnekahta, there
-stands, west of the track, in a pasture, a peculiar beast. It
-is made up of a log, with four prongs (branches) resembling
-legs. Another log is attached for a head and two root systems
-attached for horns. The result, with the addition of a
-little paint resembles very much a grotesque elk.</p>
-<p>In Edgemont we see huge specimens from the petrified
-forest, one tree of solid rock weight 14,370 pounds. The
-specimens are remarkable, but we are not destined to see the
-petrified forest itself. In Hot Springs later we are to find all
-the petrified wood we care to carry home, however. We will
-speed back to Minnekahta and thence over U. S. 18 to Hot
-Springs.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig136">
-<img src="images/p068b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="434" />
-<p class="caption">Gray Rocks, Custer, S. D.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_144">144</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig137">
-<img src="images/p069.jpg" alt="" width="468" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Battle Mountain Sanitarium for Old Soldiers</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_145">145</div>
-<h2 id="c17">CHAPTER XVII
-<br />Hot Springs</h2>
-<p>We arrive in Hot Springs late in the afternoon and look
-for a cabin for the night. All of them are filled up, so we
-look for a camp site. Evans Heights is too steep for our
-heavily loaded car, and we drive down to the Municipal Camp.
-After pitching camp we attempt to find out what there is
-in Hot Springs to see. We find that there is much and accordingly
-lay our plans for a big day.</p>
-<p>After breakfast the first thing we do is to cross the
-railroad track on foot looking for petrified moss and wood.
-From the stream bed we get several particularly fine specimens
-of the moss. These we cache while we go into a pasture
-up the slope across S. D. 79 looking for petrified wood.
-Our search is soon rewarded. We find many fine specimens
-and return to camp well loaded with stone. The phenomenon
-of the mineral water turning vegetation into stone is a peculiar
-one.</p>
-<p>We next take the twelve mile road down past the camp
-toward Cascade Springs. Ten miles from Hot Springs we
-come upon what at one time promised to be a fine modern
-city. Modern buildings were built, including brick business
-buildings with glass fronts. The hope was that &ldquo;Cascade&rdquo;
-was to be the center of medical baths instead of Hot Springs.
-At the head of the would-be town is a great warm spring, or
-we might say a geyser boiling out of a large hole in the
-ground. The water is highly medicated. Other similar
-springs are in close proximity.</p>
-<p>We take the road on through the town and two miles
-farther on. We pass through a gate to the right and almost
-at once hear the rumble of Cascade Falls just below us. We
-drive over to the brink of the hill, dismount, and descend.
-A beautiful waterfall is before us. The water falls only about
-eight or ten feet, but it is impressive in its speed and volume.
-Vegetation of various kinds, petrified by the minerals in the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_146">146</span>
-water or just in the process of petrification fills the channel
-above. Moss, waving to and fro in the water is like sand
-when we feel of it. It has a cool clammy mineral feeling
-rather than the soft sensation we had expected to find in
-moss. The bank high up, is lined with petrified moss of a
-coarse texture.</p>
-<p>The whirl-pools just below the falls are deep enough for
-swimming but a few feet farther down the stream is just
-right for wading. This warm mineral water lives up to its
-reputation derived through long years as Indian medicine.
-One just seems to feel that this is something that tones him
-up ever so much. It reminds one of Ponce De Leon and his
-Fountain of Youth. Many people are out here today.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig138">
-<img src="images/p070.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="377" />
-<p class="caption">Battle Mountain Sanitarium, a National Hospital.<br />U. S. Veterans Bureau Hospital for Disabled Soldiers and Sailors at Hot Springs<span class="jr">Stevens Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>We decide that no prettier or more inspiring place can
-be found for our lunch, so we eat in the valley beside the falls.
-After lunch we inspect the aqueduct, for irrigation, I believe,
-that crosses just above the falls.</p>
-<p>But we must be on our way. Some of us who are not
-accustomed to it wonder at the composition of the red soil
-in the Hills region. We see crops, good crops, growing on
-brick red soil. We can hardly credit our senses, but it must
-be true.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_147">147</div>
-<p>Back at camp we climb Catholican Hill, just above and to
-the south of us. From there we get an excellent view of
-Fall River, Cheyenne River, Harney Peak, The Soldiers Home,
-The Country Club, the city, and surrounding country.</p>
-<p>We drive on into Hot Springs. This is one of the larger
-cities of the Hills. It is one of the most beautiful, as well.
-Probably the medicated springs and the hospital service are
-the things for which the city is best known. Many sick
-people come here to be cured.</p>
-<p>The great Evans Plunge is a large indoor swimming pool.
-Into it the water at 90 degrees Fahr. pours in great volume.
-The mineral content makes it pleasant feeling and restful.
-Hundreds of people swim here daily in the busy season. This
-is a real swim.</p>
-<p>Next we visit Minnekahta Plunge, the old original Indian
-spring. We are told that each gallon of its water contains
-approximately 62.55 grains residue consisting of Sodium
-Sulphate 16.07, Mica 2.46, Potassium Sulphate 16.51,
-Magnesium Sulphate 4.32, Calcium Sulphate 16.33, Sodium
-Chloride 13.79. Iron Sesqui oxide Trace.</p>
-<p>The temperature is 96 degrees Fahr. This plunge is used
-as a medical plunge, largely, with tub service as well as the
-swimming pool. There is a hotel in connection with the
-baths.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig139">
-<img src="images/p070a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="509" />
-<p class="caption">S. D. State Soldier&rsquo;s Home<span class="jr">Stevens</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_148">148</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig140">
-<img src="images/p071.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="378" />
-<p class="caption">Battle Mountain Sanitarium, a National Hospital For Disabled Soldiers and Sailors, at Hot Springs<span class="jr">Stevens Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig141">
-<img src="images/p071a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="497" />
-<p class="caption">Cascade Falls, near Hot Springs, S.D.<span class="jr">Stevens Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>We spend another night in Hot Springs and leave early
-the next morning for Wind Cave over S. D. 85. We arrive
-just in time for the first trip through, register, pay our fee,
-and start.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_149">149</div>
-<p>Wind Cave is a series of passages under ground formed
-by the erosive action of water. Not all of the passages have
-been explored, but three main routes are well marked. Above
-the ground there is no indication of a cave, nothing but a low
-broad hill. There is a souvenir shop and refreshment place
-above the entrance, and government buildings across the road.
-The cave is a part of the Wind Cave National Park, owned
-and operated by the United States Government.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig142">
-<img src="images/p071b.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="506" />
-<p class="caption">Wind Cave National Park, Hot Springs, S.D.<br />Wind Cave Entrance. We enter through the little building in the foreground<span class="jr">Stevens Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>Tradition tells us that the place was discovered by a
-cow-boy who was riding by when a strong current of air
-carried his hat down through a crevice in the earth. We
-wonder if he ever recovered his hat? Why is it these stories
-leave out the one question our curiosity prompts us to ask.
-Possibly his hat, though, was not as important as the discovery
-of the cave. They are still looking for the other end
-of that current of air.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_150">150</div>
-<p>Now we are ready to descend. We might profit by putting
-on clothes that will not be harmed when soiled, tho this
-is not necessary.</p>
-<p>To the right of the entrance is a stone carving of Alvin
-McDonald, the first guide through the cave. As we enter,
-with gasoline lanterns, we feel a strong downward draft. This
-disappears as we proceed. We go down two long flights of
-stairs to start with. Down, down, down, we go, emerging in
-the Bridal Chamber, 212 feet below the surface.</p>
-<p>Our guide tells us quite confidentially that a certain
-young lady wished to marry the young man of her choice,
-but she had promised her mother that she would not marry
-anyone on the face of the earth. To keep her word and still
-satisfy her love she was married down here below the face
-of the earth. When the Government took over the cave,
-however, they forbade the continuance of this, for it was running
-matrimony into the ground.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig143">
-<img src="images/p072.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="415" />
-<p class="caption">The Sheep, Wind Cave<span class="jr">Lease Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>Farther on we see petrified prairie dogs, on a petrified
-mound. We hope our guide is strictly truthful, tho he tells
-us that even he cannot vouch for the accuracy of all he tells
-us. Then comes the Milky Way with petrified stars in a
-petrified sky, and after this the Snowball Chamber. The
-Post Office 240 feet down is filled with box work crystals
-in a sort of cobweb pattern, each box having some depth. We
-<span class="pb" id="Page_151">151</span>
-are shown the foreign department and the great Sears Roebuck
-mail chute. These formations are beautiful and remarkable
-formations of water, heat, minerals, and natural
-phenomena.</p>
-<p>Room number 23 is Nellie&rsquo;s room and the Beauty Parlor
-follows it. Rouge, here is free. The petrified zoo confronts
-us; very interesting indeed if our imaginations are up to par.
-The Bleeding Rock is colored with iron oxide giving it a blood
-color, and sure enough the Liberty Bell is cracked. In the
-rookery is a petrified bird on a petrified nest (believe it if
-you can.)</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig144">
-<img src="images/p072a.jpg" alt="" width="475" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Wind Cave<br />Frost Work, Garden of Eden<span class="jr">Lease Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_152">152</div>
-<p>Again, quite confidentially the guide tells us that one
-guide went over lovers leap the day before and six old maids
-followed. After the petrified whirlwind, imagine it, we see
-a map of South America, and then enter Opera Hall. From it
-we pass to Grant&rsquo;s tomb on the Hudson and be hanged if there
-isn&rsquo;t an Alligator going up to see it.</p>
-<p>The Devil&rsquo;s Lookout is 80 feet high, with his Dinner
-Gong close by. The Furnace Room, Hen and Chickens, Hanging
-Bridge and Bridal Veil Falls are very realistic. Sure
-enough, there sits a water spaniel dog begging for&mdash;daylight.
-Now we see some Swiss scenery, a mountain goat,
-cheese, bread and beer. Only the beer is not there, it was
-drunk by the last party through.</p>
-<p>We next come to the Methodist Episcopal Church. It is
-the custom to bow as you enter the low door and also bow
-going out. We are especially requested not to spit on the
-altar. Bishop Fowler&rsquo;s Cathedral is 190 feet across.</p>
-<p>We can just see the appetizing popcorn in Popcorn Alley,
-and then we pass on to the Hanging Rock. We carefully
-avoid going beneath it. Three hundred feet down and half
-a mile in we come to Odd Fellow&rsquo;s Hall. There is the all-seeing
-eye and the three links&mdash;Friendship, Love, and Truth,
-with the third slightly stretched. There also is the road to
-Jericho and the Goat.</p>
-<p>We pass Samson&rsquo;s Palace, The Queen&rsquo;s Drawing Room,
-Capitol Hall, and Turtle Pass. Here the trail divides, the
-short route going to the Garden of Eden, the medium route
-to the Fair Grounds, and the long route to the Pearly Gates.
-We take the medium.</p>
-<p>In order we pass Scalping Grounds, Masonic Temple,
-Elks Room, with an elk head within and an American Eagle
-alighting on a rock, then the Grand Canyon with its great
-clefts hundreds of feet underground.</p>
-<p>Monte Cristo Palace is 390 feet down. Old Maid&rsquo;s Glasses
-follows and Dog Tooth, made of five points spar crystals.
-McKinley&rsquo;s memorial is next, and then Assembly Hall. Here,
-again is much artistic boxwork formation. Next is A. O. U.
-W. Hall. In it is a stone book which, our guide tells us, is
-<span class="pb" id="Page_153">153</span>
-the only Natural History of Wind Cave. From here we go to
-the Giant&rsquo;s Punch Bowl and on to Johnston&rsquo;s Camp Grounds.</p>
-<p>In the Bachelor&rsquo;s apartments everything is upside down
-and all dusty. In his cupboard is a loaf of bread with a mouse
-gnawing at it. This leads us at last to the ticket office to
-the Fair Grounds. The Fair Grounds is a beautiful large
-room with a white ceiling, the whole covering about three
-acres. The first attraction is the South Dakota Teacher&rsquo;s
-School Room with its calcite crystal wall. The Elephant&rsquo;s
-Foot has fallen through the ceiling farther on. Then come
-S. D. Federation of Women&rsquo;s Clubs Room, Ice Gorge, and
-The Northwestern Hotel Men&rsquo;s assembly chamber. In the
-Farm Yard are a guinea hen, a little red rooster, a polar bear,
-the little red hen drinking, a guinea pig, a rabbit and a hen
-fighting, and a donkey. Last comes the jaw bone of a monster.</p>
-<p>In the Meat Market hangs a ham, a goose, and some
-beef. Over high steps and under a low ceiling we pass into
-the Coliseum. The seats are of white rock. In Rambler&rsquo;s
-Hall is a knife through the ceiling. Next are the Catacombs.
-Here we go down a rocky precipitous descent. Last comes
-the Elk&rsquo;s Room, and then the return to the entrance. Everything
-we have seen is made of rock and our imagination.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig145">
-<img src="images/p073.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="432" />
-<p class="caption">&ldquo;Buffalo,&rdquo; the Monarch of the Plains<br />Bison in the State Park</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_154">154</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig146">
-<img src="images/p074.jpg" alt="" width="477" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Traffic Cop, on a turn in the road<span class="jr">Lease</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>This has been an eventful trip.</p>
-<p>We drive on north over 85 and 81 to the South Dakota
-State Game Preserve. Here we see elk, deer, and buffalo.
-<span class="pb" id="Page_155">155</span>
-On the way we find some specimens of rose quartz. At the
-Game Lodge we stop to see the zoo. In it are deer, mountain
-sheep, coyotes, foxes, bears, eagles, owls, badgers, raccoons,
-porcupines, bobcats, prairie dogs, spotted rabbits, and elk,
-all alive. These are particularly interesting to lovers of animals.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig147">
-<img src="images/p074a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="403" />
-<p class="caption">Bear in the Zoo</p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig148">
-<img src="images/p074b.jpg" alt="" width="697" height="412" />
-<p class="caption">In the Zoo</p>
-</div>
-<p>The Game Lodge Hotel, which is the structure used by
-President Coolidge as the Summer White House of 1927, is a
-large well furnished affair, not altogether unsuited to the
-purpose for which it was used. Now, in the reception room
-<span class="pb" id="Page_156">156</span>
-on opposite sides of the comfortable fireplace are large oil
-paintings of President Coolidge and Grace Coolidge. Here
-this first lady of the land and her distinguished husband
-will, in the spirit of the paintings, receive guests in behalf of
-the nation and the State of South Dakota for years to come.
-Elk and deer heads also adorn the walls, while huge fur rugs
-cover the floor. Great leather rocking chairs and davenports
-add to the comforts of the room.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig149">
-<img src="images/p075.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="436" />
-<p class="caption">The State Game Lodge in Custer State Park<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<p>So popular is the Game Lodge as a summer resort hotel
-that any one wishing to secure a room here must do so several
-days or weeks in advance. During the various hunting
-and fishing seasons of the year this place is frequented by
-hunters from many other states of the Union as well as South
-Dakota.</p>
-<p>Special hunting licenses may be procured providing lodging
-here during the hunt.</p>
-<p>We, at last, must tear away our mooring to the Hills
-and head for home. We still have a few things to see, but
-we have the feeling that it is all over, and the total addition
-to our beings has been tremendous, too great for measurement,
-and as time rolls by it grows still greater.</p>
-<p>We miss one of the interesting spots of the Hills, Buffalo
-Gap. In Calico Canyon three miles west of town are located
-<span class="pb" id="Page_157">157</span>
-the most beautiful colored sandstone in the Hills and a
-great natural bridge of rock.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig150">
-<img src="images/p075a.jpg" alt="" width="449" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">Natural Bridge at Buffalo Gap</p>
-</div>
-<p>At Hermosa is a neat little tourist park, but we cannot
-partake of it. In Hermosa also we see the church which
-won so much publicity during President Coolidge&rsquo;s stay. Its
-picture does it justice. Hermosa Crystal Cave is ten miles
-west of Hermosa. At last, we speed back to Rapid City.
-Hidden City is on the way. This is the probable vestiges of
-what was once an ancient building or buildings. We spend
-another night in that inviting municipal park; and reluctantly
-<span class="pb" id="Page_158">158</span>
-with many a backward look, we head for home. Long
-after we leave the Hills we can look back and see those hazy
-black peaks rearing their majestic tops to the clouds. We
-can&rsquo;t help recalling Morse&rsquo;s old phrase, &ldquo;What hath God
-wrought.&rdquo; He indeed develops wonders here on earth at his
-almighty command.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig151">
-<img src="images/p076.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="501" />
-<p class="caption">Hermosa Crystal Cave</p>
-</div>
-<p>We have been pretty much concerned about the sights,
-now we look around and see what our car looks like. The
-food is gone. The containers now house quartz, mica, granite,
-tourmaline, lithia, copper, gold ore, pictures, pine cones, and
-various other souvenirs. The car glides swiftly over the excellent
-roads, but nevertheless we feel it is heavily loaded.
-We weigh the car, and consternation; it weighs 4,285 pounds,
-or 1500 pounds more than it does empty. We may as well
-look at the speedometer too. It was 12,114 and now it is
-13,584. We have gone 1470 miles. 250 of these might be
-subtracted as our trip inland from Pierre.</p>
-<p>We have had our vacation, and now we go home to ponder.
-It has been a glorious trip.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_159">159</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig152">
-<img src="images/p076a.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="485" />
-<p class="caption">CUSTER STATE PARK HIGHWAY<br />BLACK HILLS, S.D.</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_160">160</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig153">
-<img src="images/p077.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="503" />
-<p class="caption">Moonlight on the Missouri<br />Pierre, S.D.<span class="jr">Miller Foto 39</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_161">161</div>
-<h2 id="c18">APPENDIX I</h2>
-<p>The following are some of the more important peaks of the Black Hills.</p>
-<table class="center" summary="">
-<tr class="th"><th>Mountain </th><th>Where located </th><th>Height, ft.</th></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Battle Mountain </td><td class="l">Hot Springs </td><td class="r">4431</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Bear Butte </td><td class="l">Sturgis </td><td class="r">4422</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Crook&rsquo;s Tower </td><td class="l">Rochford </td><td class="r">7140</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Crow Peak </td><td class="l">Spearfish </td><td class="r">5787</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Custer Peak </td><td class="l">Deadwood-Pactola </td><td class="r">6794</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Deer Sars </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">3500</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Devil&rsquo;s Tower </td><td class="l">Sundance, Wyo. </td><td class="r">5117</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Flag Mountain </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">6900</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Harney Peak </td><td class="l">Hill City-Custer </td><td class="r">7244</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Lookout Peak </td><td class="l">Spearfish </td><td class="r">4485</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Missouri Buttes </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">5372</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Mt. Coolidge </td><td class="l">Custer </td><td class="r">6000</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Mt. Pisgah </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">6400</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Ragged Top </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">6207</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Roosevelt Mountain </td><td class="l">Deadwood </td><td class="r">5676</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Sheep Mountain </td><td class="l">In Badlands </td><td class="r">3500</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Terry Peak </td><td class="l">Lead </td><td class="r">7070</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Tow Top </td><td class="l"> </td><td class="r">3732</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">White Rocks </td><td class="l">Deadwood </td><td class="r">5286</td></tr>
-</table>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_162">162</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig154">
-<img src="images/p078.jpg" alt="" width="583" height="799" />
-<p class="caption">Large Horseshoe Curve, a long way around to get a short distance ahead</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_163">163</div>
-<h2 id="c19">APPENDIX II
-<br />Elevation of cities and places of interest.</h2>
-<table class="center" summary="">
-<tr><td class="l">Belle Fourche </td><td class="r">3011</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Buffalo Gap </td><td class="r">3258</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Camp Crook </td><td class="r">3200</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Cascade </td><td class="r">3406</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Crystal Cave </td><td class="r">4242</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Custer </td><td class="r">5301</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Deadwood </td><td class="r">4543</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Deerfield </td><td class="r">5900</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Edgemont </td><td class="r">3449</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Fairburn </td><td class="r">3310</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Ft. Meade </td><td class="r">3300</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Galena </td><td class="r">4832</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Hermosa </td><td class="r">3300</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Hill City </td><td class="r">4976</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Hot Springs </td><td class="r">3443</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Interior </td><td class="r">2381</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Jewel Cave </td><td class="r">5090</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Keystone </td><td class="r">4340</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Lead </td><td class="r">5119</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Minnekahta </td><td class="r">4159</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Mystic </td><td class="r">4835</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Pactola </td><td class="r">4459</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Philip </td><td class="r">2159</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Piedmont </td><td class="r">3463</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Pine Ridge </td><td class="r">3250</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Pringle </td><td class="r">4879</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Rapid City </td><td class="r">3229</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Rockford </td><td class="r">5299</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Savoy </td><td class="r">4956</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Scenic </td><td class="r">3812</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Silver City </td><td class="r">4592</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Spearfish </td><td class="r">3637</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">State Game Lodge </td><td class="r">4400</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Sturgis </td><td class="r">3452</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Sylvan Lake </td><td class="r">6250</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Terry </td><td class="r">6165</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Wall </td><td class="r">2813</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Whitewood </td><td class="r">3644</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Wind Cave </td><td class="r">4100</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Pierre </td><td class="r">1457</td></tr>
-</table>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_164">164</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig155">
-<img src="images/p079.jpg" alt="Railroad track beside a stream" width="467" height="800" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_165">165</div>
-<h2 id="c20">APPENDIX III
-<br />Industries of Black Hills</h2>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>Mining</dt>
-<dt>Lumbering</dt>
-<dt>Fruit Raising</dt>
-<dt>Farming</dt>
-<dt>Cement Plant</dt>
-<dt>Sugar Factory</dt>
-<dt>Flower Mills</dt>
-<dt>Quarrying</dt>
-<dt>Brick Making</dt>
-<dt>Pickle Making</dt>
-<dt>Creameries</dt>
-<dt>Canning</dt>
-<dt>Souvenir Making</dt>
-<dt>Generation of Electricity</dt>
-<dd><span class="small">150,000 H. P. estimated potential</span></dd>
-<dt>Gov. fish and game raising</dt>
-<dt>Grazing</dt>
-<dt>Health Resorts</dt>
-<dt>Publishing</dt></dl>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_166">166</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig156">
-<img src="images/p080.jpg" alt="River valley" width="800" height="524" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_167">167</div>
-<h2 id="c21">APPENDIX IV
-<br />Fishing</h2>
-<p>Originally there were no trout in the Black Hills. Now
-nearly every stream in the Hills is stocked with trout. The
-U. S. hatchery at Spearfish and the S. D. hatchery at Rapid
-City keep the streams well supplied. Approximately two million
-trout are thus put out each year. They are chiefly of
-four varieties: Loch Leven, Black spotted, Brook, and Rainbow.
-During our visit to the Hills we see fishermen practically
-in every part of every stream from the interior of the
-tourist camps to the headwaters in almost jungles. They
-use anything from the bargain one dollar complete angling
-outfit to the best outfit made. For bait they use anything
-from worms to flies. The local fishermen are better authorities
-on the subject than the author. However, many fine
-specimens are seen, and many large messes of trout are taken
-by all types of fishermen.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_168">168</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig157">
-<img src="images/p081.jpg" alt="" width="563" height="1000" />
-<p class="caption">Black Hills Streams&mdash;See <a href="#Page_169">Page 169</a></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_169">169</div>
-<h2 id="c22">APPENDIX V</h2>
-<p>Some of the more important streams of the Black Hills
-are:</p>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>(1) Belle Fourche River is in the north with its tributaries:</dt>
-<dt>(2) Sand Creek</dt>
-<dt>(3) Sundance Creek</dt>
-<dt>(4) Redwater Creek</dt>
-<dt>(5) Spearfish Creek</dt>
-<dt>(6) May Creek</dt>
-<dt>(7) Whitewood Creek</dt>
-<dt>(8) Bear Butte Creek</dt>
-<dt>(9) Owl Creek</dt></dl>
-<p>Eventually these empty into the Cheyenne River.</p>
-<p>Below these come the tributaries of the:</p>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>(10) Cheyenne</dt>
-<dt>(11) Elk Creek</dt>
-<dt>(12) Bolder Creek</dt>
-<dt>(13) Rapid Creek, with its tributaries</dt>
-<dt>(14) Castle Creek</dt>
-<dt>(15) Slate Creek</dt>
-<dt>(16) Spring Creek</dt>
-<dt>(17) Iron Creek</dt>
-<dt>(18) Battle Creek</dt>
-<dt>(19) Grace Coolidge Creek</dt>
-<dt>(20) French Creek</dt>
-<dt>(21) Lame Johnny Creek</dt>
-<dt>(22) Beaver Creek</dt>
-<dt>(23) Fall River</dt></dl>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_170">170</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig158">
-<img src="images/p082.jpg" alt="" width="486" height="800" />
-<p class="caption">A drive through the pines in the Black Hills (76)<span class="jr">Rise Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_171">171</div>
-<h2 id="c23">APPENDIX VI
-<br />Camps and Camping</h2>
-<p>The camps themselves have been taken up to some extent
-in the body of this book. In 1928 the camps in Rapid
-City and the northern cities far surpassed those of the southern
-towns. But the people all over the Hills, especially in
-the larger cities are fast awakening to the realization that
-good parks play a tremendous part in the development of
-their localities. Spearfish, Sturgis, Rapid City, and Deadwood
-were the first to realize the value of service to their
-visitors. They have doubtlessly reaped rich reward for their
-investment, judging from the number of people who use
-those camp sites night after night.</p>
-<p>The cost of the camps is generally fifty cents per car
-each night. This pays for the site, police protection, lights,
-in some places shower baths, swimming, laundry, toilets, pure
-water, firewood, reading room, community cabin, piano, and
-any other services the locality might afford; especially vegetable,
-milk, and grocery sales. Some of the camps are almost
-wonders in themselves.</p>
-<p>For those who prefer cabins most of the camps have
-small log, wood, or tent cabins, variously furnished, accommodating
-from two to six people or more. These rent at a
-dollar plus the car fee of fifty cents to a little more for the
-larger ones. The added convenience of this method of camping
-is considerable.</p>
-<p>Some of the high spots of a life-time occur in our meeting
-tourists from all parts of the state, nation, and world in
-these parks. These people range all the way from sheep
-herders to aviators and from students to corporatic magnates.
-They are all bent on the same quest, enjoyment of nature&rsquo;s
-wonders; and all are congenial. All are as one great family,
-swapping yarns and experiences and discussing everything
-from the diet of fishworms to managing an oil company.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_172">172</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig159">
-<img src="images/p083.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="457" />
-<p class="caption">Deer in the Custer State Park<span class="jr">Rise Photo, Rapid City, S.D.</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig160">
-<img src="images/p083a.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="321" />
-<p class="caption">A Log Cabin With Fire Place</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_173">173</div>
-<p>Hotel rates are reasonable in the Hills, for those who
-prefer the best of conveniences rather than a complete outdoor
-vacation. Bus lines and train service from these afford
-excellent sight-seeing facilities. However, for some of us
-who enjoy freedom and independence the conventional tour
-seems to savor too much of routine. We lose some of the
-great pleasure of conquest and discovery of unusual and inaccessible
-places. And the privacy of our party, our own division
-of our time for the things that we personally are interested
-in, are features that make or break the success of the
-trip.</p>
-<p>When one is on a vacation he likes to plan his trip so
-as best to satisfy his interests and humors. This can best be
-accomplished when he is his own boss and can give as much
-or as little time as he wishes to each place of interest. The
-scheduled tours are excellent, but if a person wishes to spend
-more time at the mines, in the Needles, seeing hydro-electric
-plants, or inspecting factories or mills he had best plan his
-own tour.</p>
-<p>The cost of the trip is not excessive if carefully planned.
-The food is of course an item. Gasoline is another. Camp
-fees are small. The rest is more or less a matter of individual
-taste.</p>
-<p>The question of camping equipment and clothing is not
-the easiest one with which we must wrestle.</p>
-<p>First, possibly comes the food question. We might profit
-by carrying meat, butter, vegetables, salt, sugar, flour, pepper,
-and lard from home or bought in quantity at some point on
-the way, if we have a way to keep them from the effects of
-the sun. Carrots, potatoes, milk, lettuce, radishes, bread,
-fruit, canned goods, coffee, and groceries in general can be
-bought in or near most of the camps at the prices about the
-same as the home grocer charges. Carrying too much loads
-down the car excessively.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_174">174</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig161">
-<img src="images/p084.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="629" />
-<p class="caption">Head of Cottonwood Draw, in center of the &ldquo;Bad Lands.&rdquo; Layers of Sandstone in Clay Beds. The sandstone protects the clay from weathering and wearing away. The isolated caps are called &ldquo;Ostrich Heads.&rdquo;</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_175">175</div>
-<p>Camping equipment is an enigma. A light tent, <b>heavy
-enough to shed rain</b>, large enough to accommodate all, and not
-having unwieldy poles, is the first essential; unless cabins,
-when accessible, or hotels are to be used. Second, enough
-cots should be provided to accommodate all. Car cushions and
-car beds are sometimes desirable. Probably the best is the
-small steel folding double camp bed with springs and a thin
-mattress. But these must be strong and not easily bent.
-Probably the greatest mistake of campers is to try to sleep
-with plenty of covering but not enough under them. Especially
-with the canvas cots the conduction of the cold air from
-below is considerable. Three woolen blankets or two and a
-pair of sheets and a mattress will keep two people comfortably
-warm under ordinary circumstances though some people
-prefer an extra blanket. High altitude makes the temperature
-drop perceptibly.</p>
-<p>For clothing, khaki, whipcord, or corduroy breeches and
-high laced leather boots are the ideal, both for men and women
-for mountain climbing or rambling around through
-mines, forests, etc. They can be cleaned and they stand
-rough wear. They look well also. Have a good sunshade
-hat and khaki shirts; light colored ones or woolen ones are
-all good. (I prefer the wool, even in the hottest weather, because
-of its safeguard from cold.) Wear light underclothing
-of course. By all means have two sets of this type of
-clothing if the stay is prolonged, as laundry facilities are not
-always available. Two pairs of hose, well pulled up, are best,
-as they do not permit chafing of the feet and they protect the
-feet against bad results of sweat.</p>
-<p>If at all possible to carry one without undue wrinkling,
-a good suit is desirable. There are occasions when one wishes
-to go to church, or to various other gatherings, dances or
-the like where a camping outfit is hardly proper.</p>
-<p>The car will appreciate having the load well balanced.
-If a heavy trunk is suspended behind, the tent and cots had
-better be suspended above the front bumper to balance it.
-Cover all equipment from dust and rain. Do not pile up equipment
-in front of the radiator, in the uphill grades the engine
-will need all the air it can get. Do not barricade any of the
-car doors; you&rsquo;ll be sorry if you do. It is best to supply a
-place for souvenirs. Very few people go out without loading
-up with &ldquo;junk&rdquo; of one sort or another before returning. (Our
-specialty was several hundred pounds of rocks and minerals.)</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_176">176</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig162">
-<img src="images/p085.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="631" />
-<p class="caption">Railroad and Wagon Bridge over the Missouri between Pierre and Ft. Pierre<span class="jr">Miller Photo</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_177">177</div>
-<p>Other desirable items of equipment are:</p>
-<dl class="undent"><dt>1. Pocket compass</dt>
-<dt>2. Hatchet</dt>
-<dt>3. Field Glasses</dt>
-<dt>4. A good jack knife</dt>
-<dt>5. A trout fishing outfit</dt>
-<dt>6. Bathing suits for all</dt>
-<dt>7. Matches</dt>
-<dt>8. A pressure gasoline camp stove</dt>
-<dt>9. Small water pail</dt>
-<dt>10. Metal kettle, skillet, butcher knives, plates, knives, forks, spoons, cups, saucers</dt>
-<dt>11. Road maps</dt></dl>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_178">178</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig163">
-<img src="images/p086.jpg" alt="Cabin" width="236" height="600" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_179">179</div>
-<h2 id="c24">APPENDIX VII
-<br />NEWER DEVELOPMENTS</h2>
-<p>Since the body of this book has been written several
-new developments have come up which should be mentioned.</p>
-<p>The United States Government has made an appropriation
-for the continuation of the carving on Rushmore Mountain.
-This work is going forward now at maximum speed.
-The form of the first figure is taking shape, and indications
-are that the work will go forward to rapid completion.
-When these figures are finished Rushmore will be one of
-the masterpieces of sculpturing of the world.</p>
-<p>At the present time the roads to Rushmore are in very
-bad shape. Indications are, however, that a graded, surfaced
-highway will soon lead up to the mountain, the state
-and the local counties are putting forth every effort to improve
-the main roads and to make new roads where such
-are needed. In the not far remote future many of the scenic
-places not now readily accessible will be opened up to Black
-Hills visitors.</p>
-<p>The South Dakota Department of Agriculture, the
-Black Hills Commercial Clubs, and various other organizations
-are calling attention to mining possibilities in the
-&ldquo;Hills.&rdquo; Many organizations from within the state and from
-outside the state are inquiring into these projects, and many
-mining leases are being let. Some of the newer developments
-are aluminum, onyx and glass.</p>
-<p>Probably in the near future the Black Hills will have
-far greater commercial importance than they at present have.</p>
-<p>The United States Government has also made a national
-park out of the Bad Lands. This means that many of the
-places that were not well known before will be brought to
-the sightseeing world. It also means that some of the heretofore
-bad roads will be surfaced, so the Bad Lands will not
-necessarily have to be left out because of rain. The Bad
-Lands is a truly remarkable sight, and should not be passed
-up by visitors to the &ldquo;Hills.&rdquo; The added mileage is not great,
-but the added experience gained through seeing them is
-enormous.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_180">180</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig164">
-<img src="images/p087.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="506" />
-<p class="caption">A typical scene, showing a valley flanked by hills, with prairie beyond, along a creek in Haakon County</p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_181">181</div>
-<p>Many of the scenic spots in Rapid Canyon and Spearfish
-Canyon have not been taken up in this volume. Either
-of these places afford many beautiful sights, especially the
-latter. The Spearfish Canyon leads clear up to Lead. On
-the way are many summer camps or taverns. There are
-many side canyons leading off the main Spearfish Canyon,
-each of which is in itself worth ascending. The best known
-of these is Little Spearfish Canyon. All through the Hills
-these beautiful but not well known canyons and gulches may
-be found.</p>
-<p>The pools below Sylvan Lake is a place that should be
-visited, either by descent from the roadside marker, north
-of the lake, or by the path down from Sylvan Lake.</p>
-<p>One place of interest not before mentioned is the
-beautiful &ldquo;Pheasant Dining Room&rdquo; at the Game Lodge. In
-it, just below the ceiling, are thirty-three pheasants, mounted
-in various positions, standing, flying, and alighting.</p>
-<p>The Belle Fourche Roundup has been taken up in some
-detail. Other events of the summer season are not wanting.
-Rapid City has its Council of American Indians, Custer its
-Gold Discovery Day, Deadwood its Days of &rsquo;76, Interior its
-Roundup, and so on. All of these affairs are worth attending.
-They are first class, demonstrations of the things they
-convey, and there is a liberal education in them for the
-person uninformed in their field of thought.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_182">182</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig165">
-<img src="images/p088.jpg" alt="Trees silhouetted by moonlight" width="345" height="500" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_183">183</div>
-<h2 id="c25">APPENDIX VIII
-<br />ROUTES</h2>
-<p>Sometimes requests are made for lists of things to see
-on one or two days trips out of Rapid City. Following are
-four possible trips, calling for one or two days or even a
-week each:</p>
-<p>1. First, the Rapid Canyon trip.</p>
-<p>See the School of Mines Museum at the Eastern entrance
-to the city. From there go through the city past the &ldquo;Old
-Mill Tea Room.&rdquo; Take the Cement plant road from the
-Bacon camp. After seeing the cement plant return, and
-turn south at Bacon Camp. Take the road to Municipal
-Camp. Go through the Municipal Camp, and if possible,
-take a swim in the pool, over the ridge from the first row
-of cabins. You&rsquo;ll remember that swim.</p>
-<p>From Municipal Camp take the canyon road to the left
-of the camp gate. From here ascend the canyon to Lockhart&rsquo;s
-Inn. Here, if such is desired, see Lockhart&rsquo;s moss
-sculpturing. Go on foot up the track to the Dark Canyon
-trail. This leads for several miles around crags, up Dark
-canyon, to Victoria Falls. Go up as far as you wish. Return
-to Rapid City.</p>
-<p>2. Northern Hills.</p>
-<p>Take in any of the Rapid City sights before mentioned.
-Take U. S. 16 west, then north to Crystal Cave. Plan on a
-half day for this. Then continue north to Sturgis. There
-see Bear Butte. Climb it, if you feel ambitious. See the
-United States Military Post, Fort Meade, east of town on
-S. D. 24. Return, and either take Boulder Canyon, S. D. 24,
-or U. S. 16 to Spearfish. See the Municipal Camp and
-United States trout hatchery southwest of town, and possibly
-the teachers college north of the city. Take a trip up the
-canyon, at least to Bridal Veil Falls. Stop at Wildcat Cave
-on the way if you have time. Return to Spearfish,
-and take U. S. 85 north to Belle Fourche. There see the
-sugar plant and Orman Dam. Return to Spearfish and on
-U. S. 16 to U. S. 85 which takes you to Deadwood. See
-Preacher Smith&rsquo;s monument on the way. Stop at Pine Crest
-camp. In Deadwood see Mt. Moriah Cemetery, White Rocks,
-and Roosevelt Mountain. Return to Deadwood, and then take
-the road right straight through main street west, over the
-old mines road to Lead. On this road, (it is gravel surfaced,)
-see the vestiges of old mines and the old Central City. In
-Lead see the Homestake Mine. This begins at the Burlington
-station near the eastern end of main street. After the mine,
-take Icebox Canyon road to Cheyenne crossing and return
-or go direct over S. D. 83 to Pactola, and Sheridan. From
-here take S. D. 40 back to Rapid City over the beautiful
-Spring Creek road.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_184">184</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig166">
-<img src="images/p089.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="501" />
-<p class="caption">Mouth of Dark Canyon<span class="jr">Rise Photo&mdash;Rapid City, S.D.</span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_185">185</div>
-<p>3. Central Hills.</p>
-<p>Again, see Rapid City. Take S. D. 40 through the beautiful
-Spring Creek valley to Sheridan and Hill City, and then
-back to Keystone, or you might go directly to Keystone. The
-roads might be rather rough. At Keystone see Keystone
-Consolidated Mines, Etta Mine, Juga Mine and a mica mine.
-Then see Rushmore mountain. Return to Hill City, or the
-mine trip may be left out. From Hill City take the road to
-Sylvan Lake. Here see the Lake and the Gorge. Climb
-Harney Peak, the highest point east of the Rocky Mountains.
-From Sylvan Lake take the Needles Highway twenty-seven
-miles, and double back over S. D. 36 to Custer. On the
-way you see the Tallent monument, and to the right a few
-paces the Gordon Stockade. See Jewell Cave, gold discovery
-monument, rose quartz mounted in masonry and the big log
-cabin and the museum. Take S. D. 36 through Galena, the
-Game Lodge and Hermosa, to Rapid City. In Hermosa see
-the church Pres. Coolidge attended.</p>
-<p>If the roads are bad take S. D. 79 from the East end of
-main street when leaving Rapid City, instead of S. D. 40 to
-the west. Thus you see Hermosa, and President Coolidge&rsquo;s
-little church, the Game Lodge, Custer and Sylvan Lake in
-reverse order, and then double back over the same route
-when returning.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_186">186</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig167">
-<img src="images/p090.jpg" alt="Indian maiden" width="325" height="600" />
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_187">187</div>
-<p>4. Southern Hills.</p>
-<p>Take S. D. 79 through Hermosa, Game Lodge and
-Galena. Leave 79 and take S. D. 81 south past Mt. Coolidge
-to Wind Cave. Go through this. Drive on to Hot Springs.
-See Cascade Springs and Cascade Falls. Ask the way at
-any filling station. See the petrified wood and petrified
-moss over the track east of the Municipal Camp. Take some
-of it with you. See Evans camp, and swim in Evans Plunge
-before you leave. Visit the old soldiers&rsquo; home. Take the
-same route back, or go west to Custer when you reach S. D.
-36, and from there take in the Needles, Sylvan Lake, Harney
-Peak, Hill City, and Sheridan, thence back to Rapid City.</p>
-<p>Make it as intensive a trip as your time will permit. If
-the time is limited some of the places must be left out.</p>
-<p>If you wish, you may take the trip through the most interesting
-places by motor bus. These busses leave Rapid City
-at short intervals, and their trip is really enjoyable.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_188">188</div>
-<h2 id="c26">DRIVING DISTANCE FROM RAPID CITY</h2>
-<table class="center" summary="">
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Blackhawk </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">N. W. </td><td class="r">7</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Piedmont </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">14</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Crystal Cave </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">22</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Tilford </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">28</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Sturgis </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">30</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Whitewood </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">38</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Spearfish </td><td class="c">16-85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">51</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Belle Fourche </td><td class="c">16-85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">64</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Newell </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">62</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Deadwood </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">Boulder </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">43</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Lead </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">Canyon </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">46</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Box Elder </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">East </td><td class="r">10</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Underwood </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">22</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Scenic </td><td class="c">40 </td><td class="c">S. E. </td><td class="r">55</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Interior </td><td class="c">40 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">70</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Pactola </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">West </td><td class="r">25</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Hermosa </td><td class="c">70 </td><td class="c">South </td><td class="r">21</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Buffalo Gap </td><td class="c">79 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">50</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Hot Springs </td><td class="c">79 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">63</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Edgemont </td><td class="c">79-85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">96</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">State Lodge </td><td class="c">79-36 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">35</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Pringle </td><td class="c">79-36-85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">55</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Sylvan Lake </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">52</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Custer </td><td class="c">79-36 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">42</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="3" class="l">Keystone </td><td class="c">S. W. </td><td class="r">27</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Hill City </td><td class="c">40-85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">28</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="3" class="l">Rushmore </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">30</td></tr>
-<tr><td colspan="2" class="l">Phillip </td><td class="c">16 </td><td class="c">East </td><td class="r">93</td></tr>
-</table>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_189">189</div>
-<h2 id="c27">DISTANCE FROM DEADWOOD OF VARIOUS PLACES OF INTEREST</h2>
-<table class="center" summary="">
-<tr><td class="l">Spearfish </td><td class="c">85-16 </td><td class="c">N. W. </td><td class="r">13</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Belle Fourche </td><td class="c">85-16 </td><td class="c">N. W. </td><td class="r">3</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Lead </td><td class="c">14 </td><td class="c">West </td><td class="r">26</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Sturgis </td><td class="c">Boulder </td><td class="c">East </td><td class="r">12</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Crystal Cave </td><td class="c">Boulder 14 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">27</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Rapid City </td><td class="c">Boulder 14 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">43</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Pactola </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">South </td><td class="r">30</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Hill City </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">45</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Keystone </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">56</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Rushmore Mt. </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">56</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Sylvan Lake </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">52</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Game Lodge </td><td class="c">85-36 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">72</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Hermosa </td><td class="c">85-36 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">86</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Custer </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">58</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Custer-Needles </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">74</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Hot Springs </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">84</td></tr>
-<tr><td class="l">Edgemont </td><td class="c">85 </td><td class="c">&rdquo; </td><td class="r">95</td></tr>
-</table>
-<div class="box">
-<h1 title="">Through the
-<br />BLACK HILLS
-<br />and
-<br />BAD LANDS
-<br />of
-<br />So. Dak.</h1>
-<hr />
-<h1 title="">Authentic Guide
-<br />History&mdash;Statistics&mdash;Scenery</h1>
-<hr />
-<p class="center"><span class="small">Copyright, 1929</span>
-<br />By
-<br />P. D. Peterson</p>
-<p class="center">Price, $1.35</p>
-</div>
-<h2>Transcriber&rsquo;s Notes</h2>
-<ul>
-<li>Copyright notice provided as in the original&mdash;this e-text is public domain in the country of publication.</li>
-<li>Silently corrected palpable typos; left non-standard spellings and dialect unchanged.</li>
-<li>Transcribed captions within photographs, where they added information not in the printed caption.</li>
-<li>In the text version only, italicized text is delimited by _underscores_.</li>
-</ul>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Through the Black Hills and Badlands
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