diff options
| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-06 18:15:08 -0800 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-06 18:15:08 -0800 |
| commit | 5800cd0bb347225a1fce6aaf62a771c9c01c5049 (patch) | |
| tree | 541cc3c317bd75eb350686eb3ae76c0d7ca48fac | |
| parent | 394142592b051103ed343264ae6b8a9c72f93bd4 (diff) | |
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 4 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/53648-h.zip | bin | 356234 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/53648-h/53648-h.htm | 10545 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/53648-h/images/cover.jpg | bin | 30711 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/53648-h/images/illus01.jpg | bin | 54910 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/53648-h/images/illus02.jpg | bin | 55977 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/53648.txt | 9616 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/53648.zip | bin | 203933 -> 0 bytes |
10 files changed, 17 insertions, 20161 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2853435 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #53648 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53648) diff --git a/old/53648-h.zip b/old/53648-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 33bfe95..0000000 --- a/old/53648-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/53648-h/53648-h.htm b/old/53648-h/53648-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 3744bc5..0000000 --- a/old/53648-h/53648-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10545 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=us-ascii" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of Trip to the West and Texas, by A.A. Parker. - </title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -.small { - font-size: small} - -.medium { - font-size: medium} - -.large { - font-size: large} - -.x-large { - font-size: x-large} - - - h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; -} - -.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} -.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} -.p6 {margin-top: 6em;} - -.ph1, .ph2, .ph3, .ph4 { text-align: center; text-indent: 0em;} -.ph1 { font-size: xx-large; margin: .67em auto; } -.ph2 { font-size: x-large; margin: .75em auto; } -.ph3 { font-size: large; margin: .83em auto; } -.ph4 { font-size: medium; margin: 1.12em auto; } -.ph5 { text-align: center; font-size: small; margin: 1.12em auto;} - -.hang { - text-indent: -2em; - padding-left: 2em} - -p.drop:first-letter { - font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, serif; - font-size: xx-large; - line-height: 70%} - -.uppercase { - font-size: small; - text-transform: uppercase} - - - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - clear: both; -} - -hr.cont {width: 25%;} -hr.tb {width: 45%;} -hr.chap {width: 65%} -hr.full {width: 95%;} - -hr.r5 {width: 5%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em;} -hr.r65 {width: 65%; margin-top: 3em; margin-bottom: 3em;} - - - -table { margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto;} - - th{ border: 1px solid black;} - - .tdl {text-align: left;} - .tdr {text-align: right;} - .tdc {text-align: center;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; -} /* page numbers */ - - - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - - - - -.bbox {border: #004200 double 4px; - margin-left: 30%; - margin-right: 30%;} - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.right {text-align: right;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.u {text-decoration: underline;} - -.b {font-weight:bold;} - - -.caption {font-weight: bold;} - -/* Images */ -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; -} - - - - - -/* Footnotes */ -.footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} - -.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} - -.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} - -.fnanchor { - vertical-align: super; - font-size: .8em; - text-decoration: - none; -} - - - - - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - -@media handheld { - .hidehand {display: none; visibility: hidden;} -} - - - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Trip to the West and Texas, by A. A. Parker - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Trip to the West and Texas - comprising a journey of eight thousand miles, through - New-York, Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, Louisiana and - Texas, in the autumn and winter of 1834-5. - -Author: A. A. Parker - -Release Date: December 2, 2016 [EBook #53648] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRIP TO THE WEST AND TEXAS *** - - - - -Produced by Graeme Mackreth and The Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - - -<p class="ph3">TRIP</p> - -<p class="ph5">TO THE</p> - -<p class="ph1">WEST AND TEXAS.</p> - -<p class="ph5">COMPRISING</p> - -<p class="ph4">A JOURNEY OF EIGHT THOUSAND MILES,</p> - -<p class="ph5">THROUGH</p> - -<p class="ph4">NEW-YORK, MICHIGAN, ILLINOIS, MISSOURI, LOUISIANA AND -TEXAS, IN THE AUTUMN AND WINTER OF -1834-5.</p> - -<p class="ph4" style="margin-top: 3em;">INTERSPERSED WITH ANECDOTES, INCIDENTS -AND OBSERVATIONS.</p> - -<p class="ph3" style="margin-top: 3em;">WITH A BRIEF SKETCH<br /> - -OF THE<br /> - -<span class="b">TEXIAN WAR.</span></p> -<hr class="cont" /> -<p class="ph3">BY A.A. PARKER, ESQ.</p> -<hr class="cont" /> -<p class="ph4">Second Edition.</p> -<hr class="cont" /> -<p class="ph5" style="margin-top: 5em;">CONCORD, N.H.:<br /> -PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM WHITE.<br /> -BOSTON:<br /> -BENJAMIN B. MUSSEY.<br /> -1836. -</p> - - - - -<p class="center" style="margin-top: 5em;"><small> -Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1835,<br /> -<span class="smcap">By White & Fisher</span>,<br /> -In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of New-Hampshire.</small> -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2">PREFACE.</p> - - -<p>The author of this work, unknown to fame, and unacquainted with the -art of book-making, has endeavored, in the following pages, to give -some account of the great <span class="smcap">Western and Southern Country</span>. In -performing this task, he has not attempted the regions of fancy and -fiction; but has told his own story—"a plain unvarnished tale," in his -own way. And although it may not indicate much depth of research, or -possess all the graces of polished diction and charms of novelty, yet -he hopes it may be found to contain information sufficient to repay a -perusal.</p> - -<p>He spent five months on his journey, and examined the country through -which he passed, as much as time would permit:—Its soil, climate and -productions—the manners, customs and health of the inhabitants—the -animals, reptiles and insects—in short, all things favorable and -unfavorable in the <span class="smcap">New World</span>. He has freely spoken of the -country just as it appeared to him; and he believes the information -this work purports to give, may be safely relied upon. But if it should -be found to contain errors of fact, or of opinion, he is confident -they will be deemed unintentional.</p> - -<p>It would have been quite easy to make a much larger book of the -author's travels; and had he followed the example set him by some of -the journalists of the day, he should have done so. But his object was -not to make a large and expensive volume. He has given in a concise -form, such descriptions, incidents and anecdotes only, as he believes -may instruct and amuse, and enable the public to form a correct opinion -of the country. How he has succeeded in his undertaking, others, of -course, will judge for themselves; he hopes this little work may be -found not entirely destitute of useful and entertaining matter, and -prove an acceptable offering to his friends and fellow-citizens.</p> - -<p>In the appendix, will be found a particular description of -<span class="smcap">Michigan</span>, and a <span class="smcap">Brief Sketch</span> of the <span class="smcap">Texian -Revolutionary War</span>.</p> - -<p>In this sketch, the author has consulted all the accounts given of this -sanguinary war, and he believes it will be found correct in all its -essential particulars: but he does not wish to conceal the fact, that -amidst the hurry and bustle of a Revolution perfect accuracy is hardly -attainable.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2">CONTENTS.</p> - -<table summary="toc" width="85%"> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Objects of the Trip—Albany, situation and appearance—Erie canal -basin—western travellers—rail road—canal boats, packets, line -boats and scows—accommodations—number of boats—mode of passing -each other—tow-pathbridges—accident in crossing—Erie -canal—Villages and grog-shops—Trenton falls—Ithaca falls—Taghcanic -falls—Rochester—canal aqueduct—Genesee falls—Sam Patch's last -leap—flouring mills—Lockport—double canal locks—deep cut—arrival -at Buffalo. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right">Page, <a href="#Page_13">13</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">The city of Buffalo—steamboat on the Niagara river—Fort -Erie—Black Rock—visit to Niagara falls—Canada -shore—Manchester—State of New-York—emigration—return to -Buffalo—different routes to the West—passage in -steamboat—Cleaveland—Maumee—Monroe—number of emigrants—vessels -on the lake—Detroit—the Canada shore—ferry boats. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_25">25</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Travelling by stage to the mouth of St. Joseph river—miry -roads—Ann Arbor—Upsilanti—oak openings—prairies and -woodland—Michigan, level, clear water, but not -pure—-Jackson—Marshall—Gull lake and prairie—Kalamazoo -river—Bronson—Pawpaw river—St. Joseph village—lake -Michigan—misfortune of an emigrant—crossing the lake—Michigan -city—stage road on the beach. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Chicago, a general description thereof—Pottawattomie tribe -of Indians, their appearance and actions—the land back of -Chicago—the lakes and their original outlet through the -Illinois river—character of the inhabitants of Chicago—house -rent and provisions. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_43">43</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Trip to Fox river—fellow travellers—river Oplane—Du Page river -<a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a>and Naper's settlement—big and little woods—pleasant settlement -of emigrants—Fox river—upper house—lost in a prairie at night—log -house—travelling towards Rock river—gravel hills—Walker's -grove. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_51">51</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">General description of the north part of Illinois—various kinds -of trees—prairies—excellent coal—government grant of -land—unsurveyed land settled upon—pre-emption right—not subject -to fever and ague—wild game—prairie wolves and mode of killing -them—prairie rattle snakes, blackbirds and squirrels—manner of -judging of a new country—anecdote of a Vermont emigrant—New-Hampshire -emigrant—statements of settlers and landholders not always to be -credited. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Holderman's Grove—Ottawa—junction of Fox and Illinois -rivers—Hennipen—Princeton—present and past situation of an -emigrant—massacre of Elijah Philips by the Indians, and the -fortunate escape of his companions. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_66">66</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Peoria—beauty of the surrounding country—fever and ague—scholars -studying aloud in school—stages from Peoria—anecdote of a tavern -keeper—Illinois river—passage down it in a steamboat—narrow -lakes—high bluffs—Pekin—Beardstown—Naples—arrival at upper -Alton. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_74">74</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">General description of the state of Illinois—streams skirted -with timber—more than half prairie—a level State—generally -rich soil—American bottom—military bounty lands—beautiful -region of Sangamon river—the best tracts of land in the -State—more good land than any other State—cause of the existence -of prairies—country once inhabited by a civilized race anterior -to the Indians—its rivers, Kankakee, Oplane, Du Page, Fox, -Illinois, Rock, Spoon, Kaskaskia, Wabash, &c.—lead -mines—productions—milk-sickness—chief towns—schools, &c. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Burning of the prairies—backwoodsmen—society—meeting-houses -and school-houses—what kind of goods an emigrant ought to take -with him—cheapness of provisions—manner of commencing a -settlement—ploughing the prairies—guarding the improvements -against the prairie fires—junction of the Missouri with the -Mississippi—arrival at St. Louis—a description of the -town—steam ferry boat. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_92">92</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">General description of the state of Missouri—south part -generally barren, or wet and unhealthy—soil not muddy—prairie -on the Mississippi—banks of the Missouri—large prairies -destitute of wood and water—productions—prairie blossoms—wild -animals, snakes, &c.—dryness and purity of the -atmosphere—diseases—mildness of the winter—lead mines and -minerals—chief towns. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_99">99</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Voyage down the Mississippi in a steamboat—high bluffs—screw -auger grist mills—shot towers—curiosities—dangers of the -Mississippi navigation—narrow escape—run aground on a sand -bar—mouth of the Ohio—cargo of the boat—amusements on -board—history of one of the ladies—"Queen of the Nile"—description -of the steamboat—price of passage—wooding the boat—ludicrous -fracas on board—noise of the boats, &c.—peculiarities of expression -of the western people—names of money. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_107">107</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Independent frankness of the western people—eastern people—towns -on the river—great earthquake at New Madrid—bluffs on the -river—woodcutters—serpentine course of the Mississippi—negro -slaves on board—one died of the cholera—benefit of steamboat -navigation—flat boats still in use. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_119">119</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Arrival at Natchez—description of the city—starts for Texas -with another traveller—cotton plantations—description of the -cotton plant—passage through the great Mississippi swamp—cypress -knees, water and mud—Tensaw river—overtaken by night in the -swamp—gloomy situation—lake Lovelace—planter's house on Indian -mound—mildness of the weather—good accommodations—travelling -in a right spirit—anecdote of a testy traveller. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_125">125</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Outlet of the lake—Washita river—Harrisonburg—pine -woods—description of a planter—Red River rightly named—changes -at its mouth—arrival at Alexandria and description of the -place—race-course and horses—death of a gambler—fruit trees and -vegetables—moschetoes. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_134">134</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Bayou Rapide—fine cotton plantations—stream running in opposite -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>directions—accompanied by another traveller—pine woods—planter's -house—price of meals, &c.—Spanish moss—bottom land covered -with dense forest—pine woods—the widow's house—manner -of lodging travellers—inquisitiveness of the people—emigrants to -Texas—Sabine river. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_139">139</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Arrival in Texas—oak openings and prairies—plantations of corn -and cotton—St. Augustine—arrival at Nacogdoches—its grotesque -appearance—Indian trade in deer pelts—Galveston bay and Texas -land company—four leagues of land for a dog—pine woods—Indian -mounds—mounds in Ohio, Missouri and Illinois—Monastery near -a mound—their origin and use—Neches river—new made bridge. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_149">149</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Leave the pine woods—wet prairie—Trinity river—planter's -house—death of an emigrant's wife—perplexities of -emigration—an emigrant lost his money—breach of trust in -a hired man—beautiful prairies—muddy streams—red cedar—petrified -wood—mode of grinding corn—living from hand to mouth—beautiful -prospect—Indians on horseback—massacre of twenty Polanders—muddy -swamp—Brazos river—Spanish trader—Indians more friendly to Americans -than Spaniards—prairie country—Cole's settlement—live oak—Colorado -river. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_160">160</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;"><span class="smcap">General View of Texas</span>—herds of buffalo and wild -horses—mustangs, manner of catching—seacoast flat—Galveston -bay and Texas land company—burning of the prairies—fine -grazing country—wildgame—deer-hunting—shooting deer in the -night—productions of the soil—list of forest trees—Spanish -moss—health of the country and climate. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_169">169</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Rivers of Texas—seacoast—mill-seats—land grants—number of -inhabitants—exports—inhabitants indolent—cheapness of -land and manner of obtaining it—reptiles and -animals—panther—flies—moschetoes—Indian tribes—water -too warm. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_182">182</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Towns in Texas—Spanish villages—Mexican -garrisons—Texas—mechanics—Texas and Cohahuila united—courts -of law—professional men—unlawful punishments—salt lake—negroes -indented—boundaries of Texas—general appearance of the -country—rainy season—roads and carriages—emigration. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_196">196</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Emigrants unhappy—Mexican republic unsettled—Col. -Austin—imprisonment—Texians slandered—healthy portions -of the country—what an emigrant ought to take with him—price -of stock—mail routes—currency—best spot in Texas—emigrant -puzzled—how property may be acquired. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_204">204</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Arrival at San Felipe—billiard room—gambler shot—bloody affray -about a lady—ten men to one woman in the country—arrival at Columbia -and Bell's landing—started down river in a canoe—Brazoria—went -on board a vessel—hunting excursion of the mate—Brazos -river—Velasco—sandy beach. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_213">213</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Passed over the bar and left Texas—reasons for emigrating -in the fall—means for going to Texas—speculation—passengers -on board—sea sickness—vessel run aground—Mississippi steam -tow-boats—sugar plantations and negroes—making sugar. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_222">222</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">City of New-Orleans—vessels in port—muddy streets and filthy -gutters—houses of dissipation—character of the inhabitants—resort -of knaves and vagabonds—ship yards—canal and railroad—no wharves. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_228">228</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Start down the river—nunnery—battle-ground—negro slavery—the -situation of the negroes—general views on the subject. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_235">235</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;"><span class="smcap">General description</span> of the <span class="smcap">Mississippi river</span>—its -source—its tributaries—Wisconsin and Illinois—Missouri, its -source and tributaries—gates of the Rocky mountains—Ohio -river, its general character and appearance—White, Arkansas -and Red rivers—outlets of the Mississippi—falls of St. Anthony—Dacota -Indian woman—river banks—width of the stream and depth of -water—Mississippi swamp—serpentine course—color of the waters—the -most interesting river in the world. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_246">246</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;">Sail for Boston—sea voyage disagreeable to a landsman—change of -scenery—Chatham, Boston—arrival at home. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_262">262</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;"> <span class="smcap">Retrospective Glance</span> at the <span class="smcap">Great Mississippi -Valley</span>—character, appearance and natural -productions—conclusion. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_266">266</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;"><span class="smcap">Michigan</span>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>—population, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>—face of the country, -<a href="#Page_286">286</a>—Wayne county, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>—Monroe county, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>—Washtenaw county, -<a href="#Page_295">295</a>—Macomb county, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>—Oakland county, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>—St. Clair -county, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>—St. Joseph county, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>—Cass county, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>—Berrien -county, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>—Lapeer and Saginaw counties, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>—Shiawassee -county, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>—Calhoun county, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>—Kalamazoo county, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>—Branch -and Hillsdale counties, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>—Lenawee county, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>—Barry, Eaton -and Ingham counties on grand river. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"><a href="#Page_312">312</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#TEXIAN_REVOLUTION">TEXIAN REVOLUTION.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td style="text-indent: -1em;"> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#First_Campaign">First Campaign.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-indent: -1em;">Introductory remarks, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>—causes of the war, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>—parallel -case, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>—Col. Austin released and sent to Texas, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>—capture -of the armed schooner Correo, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>—first battle on land at -Gonzales, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>—capture of Goliad, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>—Col. Milam, <a href="#Page_335">335</a>—army -marched towards San Antonio, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>—San Antonio besieged, -<a href="#Page_340">340</a>—Commissioners to the United States appointed, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>—San -Antonio stormed and taken, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>—the brave Col. Milam killed, -and sketch of his life, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</p> - -<p style="text-indent: -1em;">Gen. Mexia's expedition, <a href="#Page_345">345</a>—28 men shot at Tampico, -<a href="#Page_347">347</a>—volunteers from the United States—Col. Stanley's regiment, -<a href="#Page_348">348</a>—General Council convened, and citizens of Goliad make a -declaration of independence, <a href="#Page_349">349</a>—state of affairs in Mexico, -decree of Santa Anna, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>—embargo laid, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>—Indians called to -aid Santa Anna, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>—flag of Texas, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>—post-offices and mail -routes, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>—Mexicans preparing for another campaign, <a href="#Page_355">355</a>—situation -of Texas, <a href="#Page_356">356</a>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="center"><a href="#Second_Campaign">Second Campaign.</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-indent: -1em;">The Mexican army arrive in Texas, commanded by Santa Anna -in person, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>—Situation of San Antonio, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>—capture and -massacre of Col. Johnson's party, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>—second attack upon -the fort, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>—the fort attacked at midnight, taken and the -garrison all slain, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>—Gen. Cos, <a href="#Page_365">365</a>—Declaration of -Independence, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>—officers of the government, <a href="#Page_368">368</a>—Goliad -abandoned, and Col. Fanning party attacked in the prairie, -<a href="#Page_369">369</a>—Col. Fanning surrenders, and his party massacred, <a href="#Page_370">370</a>.</p> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> -<p style="text-indent: -1em;">Gen. Houston retreats to the Brazos, <a href="#Page_371">371</a>—the inhabitants become -alarmed and flee, <a href="#Page_371">371</a>—massacre at Copano, <a href="#Page_372">372</a>—skirmish at sea, -<a href="#Page_372">372</a>—Gen. Gaines marches to the frontier of Texas, <a href="#Page_372">372</a>—Indians on -the western prairies, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>—CAPTURE OF SANTA ANNA, <a href="#Page_375">375</a>—the -Independence of Texas certain, <a href="#Page_378">378</a>—Texian Independence agitated -in U.S. Congress, <a href="#Page_378">378</a>—Table of the Chief Towns in Texas and -distances from San Felipe, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td align="right"> -</td> -</tr> -</table> - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="ADVERTISEMENT" id="ADVERTISEMENT">ADVERTISEMENT.</a></p> - - -<p>The public approbation of this work, so fully manifested by a rapid -and entire sale of the first edition, has induced the publishers to -issue another, much enlarged and improved edition. The broad expanse -of country, stretching from the Alleghany mountains to the Pacific -ocean, much of which is unsurveyed, unsettled and unexplored, is -an interesting portion of the United States. It is believed, there -are two hundred million acres of public lands yet unsurveyed in -Wisconsin Territory—fifty millions in Michigan—and 800 millions in -Missouri, Mississippi, and Arkansas. To all these, are to be added -the illimitable tracts, hardly yet trodden by the foot of civilized -man, which lie in the unpeopled immensity, on both sides of the rocky -mountains. The value of this vast domain, at the minimum government -price, defies all calculation. What a source of revenue for the present -and the future!</p> - -<p>But when the boundless resources that now lie hidden in its hills and -mountains shall have become developed—when the vast plains shall have -been settled—and towns, villages and farm houses arise in the lonely -wilderness, and the teeming soil be cultivated—who then will be able -to estimate the value of this great territory of the West? In ten -years, the West will have a majority in the United States Congress; in -a century, a large portion of it will contain a population as dense, -perhaps, as that of the Atlantic States. Public attention, within a few -years, has been directed to this section of our country—emigration has -received a new impulse—government lands are sought for with avidity, -and the whole country is rapidly settling. To the emigrant, speculator, -and indeed, the whole people of the United States as joint owners of -the public domain, any book giving information upon this subject, must -be acceptable and of real value. The publishers, therefore, anticipate -a rapid sale of the present edition.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"> -TRIP<br /> -TO THE<br /> -WEST AND TEXAS. -</p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></p> - - -<p>In September, 1834, I left Exeter, New-Hampshire, for the purpose of -visiting the Western States and Texas. Although public attention had -been for some time directed thither, by various published sketches and -frequent emigration, yet so little was definitely known, that I was -induced to travel through these sections of the country to learn their -actual situation and condition. My object was not to visit the settled -regions of the country, a full knowledge of which may be obtained from -books, but to see some portion of the unknown and unsettled regions -of the West and the South. My particular attention was, therefore, -directed to Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, Louisiana and Texas.</p> - -<p>But so rapidly are some portions of this new country settling; so -constantly are new villages<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> springing up in the wilderness; and so -continually are improvements making, that history must continue to -lag behind the reality. To keep any thing like an even pace with -population, and the public constantly informed of the actual condition -of the country, would require, like an almanac, an annual revision and -publication of its history.</p> - -<p>I took passage on board the stage, through Brattleborough and -Bennington, to Albany. About twelve years ago, I travelled over this -route, and was gratified to find so many improvements in the villages, -farms, and especially in the stage road, since I had travelled it -before. In passing through Vermont, I found a new road had been made -to avoid the high hills over which it formerly passed, so that now, I -believe this is the easiest and safest route across the Green Mountains.</p> - -<p>Two opposition turnpikes were almost completed from Bennington to -Troy—one entering at the upper, the other at the lower part of the -city. The public have been badly accommodated in this quarter. The -old road is rough, hilly and circuitous. One of the turnpikes would -have been abundantly sufficient; but if Troy chooses to make two, the -travelling public will not probably object. Opposition seems to be -the order of the day; and although it has caused much improvement in -the ease and facility of travelling, yet it is often troublesome and -annoying. As we drove up to the door of the stage house in Albany, -an agent of one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> steamboats, thrust in his head and gave us -a handbill of a boat—enquired if we were going down the river, and -without waiting for an answer, said it was a good boat, swift, low -pressure engine, start at nine in the morning, fare to New-York city -only <i>fifty cents</i>. In the bar-room, we had to pass through the same -ceremony with the agent of another boat; and I had to take a third -edition in the street next morning.</p> - -<p>The Erie canal terminates in a large basin, immediately on the banks -of the Hudson river, so that the freight of the canal boats can be -conveniently transferred to the river boats. Western travellers can -here take passage on board the canal boat, or go on the railroad to -Schenectady and take a boat there. But as the canal is twice the -distance of the railroad, travellers generally choose the latter. -Travellers from the North, when accompanied by their families and -baggage, usually stop at Troy, and take a canal boat there, for the -West.</p> - -<p>The ancient city of Albany has the appearance of much business and -wealth; and some portions of it are pleasant, especially in the region -of the State House and other public buildings. From the river, the -ground rapidly rises, so that the city stands upon the side of a hill, -and makes a fine appearance, when viewed from the opposite shore.</p> - -<p>The railroad commences in State street, a short distance below the -State House yard; and so steep is the ascent, that the cars are drawn -for a mile by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> horses. Here a steam engine was hitched on, and we -started off at a rapid rate. The distance from Albany to Schenectady -is sixteen miles, and we travelled it over in less than an hour. Here -we were assailed by the agents and captains of the canal boats, and -those who could make the most noise and bustle, and obtain the most -passengers, were the best fellows.</p> - -<p>There are three kinds of boats in general use on the canal. The Packet -boats, drawn by three horses, and go at the rate of about five miles -an hour. They are fitted up in good style, intended exclusively for -passengers and their baggage—having elegant cabins, drawing-rooms, -berths, &c. Fare, five cents a mile and found.</p> - -<p>The Line boats—designed for freight and passengers also. These are -drawn by two horses, and travel at the rate of two and a half or three -miles an hour. The fare is one cent a mile for passage only; and one -and a half cents addition per mile, for board. Families travelling to -the West, generally take the Line boats. They can travel much cheaper -than in any other mode. They furnish their own provisions, and have -the privilege of cooking on board the boat. Provisions are plenty and -cheap, and can be bought at almost every stopping place, along the -whole line of the canal.</p> - -<p>And the Scows, used exclusively for grain, flour, lumber, &c., which -are employed by the farmers to carry their own produce to market. These -are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> drawn by two horses; and many of them have two sets of horses, and -stalls made on board to keep one set, while the other draws the boat; -and at regular intervals, relieve each other. By this means, they keep -the boat continually going, night and day.</p> - -<p>The Packet boats ply between the large towns on the canal, from -Schenectady to Utica; from Utica to Rochester, &c., so that a -traveller, in going through the whole route, must shift his baggage -and himself from one boat to another, three or four times. But the -Line boats run the whole length of the canal, from Albany or Troy to -Buffalo.—These boats are furnished with horses by a company, who have -them stationed at regular intervals of about twelve miles the whole -distance.</p> - -<p>All the boats, at night, carry two brilliant lights in the bow, so -as to enable the helmsman to steer, and avoid other boats when they -meet. I took passage on board one of the Troy and Erie line. I found -good accommodations, and good company. In the forward part of the -boat, were the gentlemen's and ladies' cabins; in the stern, the -dining and cook rooms; and in the centre the place for freight. It was -about seventy feet long, and twelve or fourteen feet in width. Three -other passengers, besides myself, went the whole route; a lady and -her daughter from Pennsylvania, and a Dr. Warren of Rhode Island; and -way-passengers were continually coming aboard, and leaving the boat, at -our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> several stopping places. I found travelling on the canal pleasant, -and in fine weather, delightful. We were continually passing villages, -farms, locks, viaducts, or boats; and these, with the company aboard, -afforded an agreeable variety. When I wished for exercise, I would jump -ashore, and take a walk along the hard trod tow-path.</p> - -<p>I was really surprised to find so many boats on the canal. We met them -almost every mile, and sometimes, three or four together. The Line -boats are owned by companies; and the captain told me that forty-five -boats belonged to his line. When one happens to run aground, which -is sometimes the case, when deeply laden and the water low, it is of -course, in the centre of the canal; so that boats cannot pass on either -side; in such an event, twenty or thirty boats will be congregated in a -few hours.</p> - -<p>The boats pass each other on the left hand side, and without trouble -or delay. The whole process of passing belongs to the outside boat; or -the one the farthest from the tow-path. All the inside boat has to do, -is to steer near the tow-path, and keep on as usual. The outside boat -hauls one way, and their horses the other, and lets the tow-rope slack, -so that the inside horses and boat can pass over it, between them. The -tow-path sometimes changes from one side to the other of the canal; and -the horses are transferred by means of a bridge. They pass underneath -the bridge, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> turn up on to it the further side; so as to keep the -tow-rope clear of it. The riders display their horsemanship by whipping -over these bridges at full speed. Accidents, however, sometimes occur. -One day, the Packet boat passed us, a short distance from a tow-path -bridge; and as the horses were going at full speed across it, the -forward one slipped, fell over the railing, and drew the others after -him. The rider saved himself by leaping from the horse to the bridge. -The two forward horses fell into the water, and came out uninjured; but -the rear one fell across the edge of the tow-path and was killed on the -spot.</p> - -<p>The Erie canal is a great and noble work; and has gained a niche in -the temple of fame, for its great founder. It has been of incalculable -benefit to New-York, and the rising States in the West; and must -continue to be, in all time to come. Now it is completed, and in -successful operation, men may cease to wonder; but so improbable was it -generally thought to be, to make such a long line of canal, on a route -so difficult and expensive, that an intelligent gentleman informed me, -when he was asked by one of the surveyors, if he should not admire -to see boats passing before his door; emphatically replied, if life -were guaranteed till that event, he would then willingly resign it. A -few years only passed, before the event did happen, but he is not yet -<i>quite</i> willing to die.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> - -<p>It was indeed a great undertaking. None but a man of a gigantic mind, -of steady purpose and firm resolution, could have conceived, planned -and executed it. It all along bears the marks of so much labor and -expense, that a common mind would have been deterred from making the -attempt. The canal passes over an extent of country much more rough, -broken and hilly than I had supposed. Long levels of canal are found -to be sure; but they are made at great expense, by filling up deep -gullies, winding round the side of hills, or deep cuts through them; -and by walling up the side of streams, or aqueducts over them.</p> - -<p>Every few miles, the canal passes through a village. Many of these -have sprung into existence, since the completion of the canal; and -others have much increased in size, wealth and beauty. They are all -<i>ornamented</i> with grog-shops, containing, among other miscellaneous -matter, an abundant supply of "boat-stores."</p> - -<p>New-York has a great variety of romantic scenery. It has more beautiful -and stupendous water-falls than any other State in the Union; and the -lover of nature's choicest works might very pleasantly spend months in -viewing them. Trenton Falls, on the West Canada Creek, a large stream -that empties into the Mohawk, are situated about twenty-four miles -above its mouth. They consist of several <i>chutes</i> for the distance -of two miles, commencing near Black river road, and terminating at -Conrad's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> mills. The upper fall is about twenty feet; and the descent -above, for two miles, is not less than sixty feet. The water, here -compressed into a narrow space, is received into a large basin, rolls -down a precipitous ravine a hundred feet in depth, and presents to -the eye the most romantic peculiarities.—Some of the topmost crags -overhanging the stream; and here and there, a hardy tree, having gained -a foot-hold in the crevices of the rock, throws its branches athwart -the abyss. There are six distinct falls. The next below, are two -pitches, called the Cascades; where the water falls eighteen feet—the -Mill Dam Fall, of thirteen feet.</p> - -<p>The High Falls, consisting of three pitches—one of forty-eight, the -second of eleven, and the third, of thirty-seven feet—Sherman's Falls, -of thirty-five feet. The last fall is at Conrad's mills, and is only -six feet; but the descent of water, from the top of the upper fall -to the lower one, is three hundred and eighty-seven feet—and the -whole forms as wild and romantic a scene as the enthusiastic lover of -nature's most eccentric works could desire. Organic remains have been -found in the ravine in abundance, and Mr. Sherman has a cabinet of -them, which are exhibited to the curious.</p> - -<p>Ithaca Falls are situated at the head of Cayuga Lake. The high fall -of Fall river is the first that strikes the eye, in going from the -steamboat landing to the village, and is one hundred and sixteen feet -in height. Two immense piles of rocks enclose<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> the stream. On the right -hand high up the bluff, a mill-race is seen winding around a point in -the bank, suspended in mid air; and sometimes an adventurous visitor, -may be seen cautiously wending his way along the dizzy path on the -verge of the abyss. The mill-race was built, by letting a man down over -the giddy steep by a rope fastened to a tree above, who dug holes in -the bluff, in which to fasten its principal supports. A short distance -from this, up the rocky bed of the creek, is another splendid fall—not -so high as the first, but more wild and beautiful. Above these, are -three more falls, the upper one of which is the highest fall of water -of any, and is the most grand and imposing. These four falls have a -descent of four hundred and thirty-eight feet in the short distance of -a mile, and present to the eye as great a variety of the romantic and -beautiful in nature, as earth affords.</p> - -<p>There are Cascadilla, Six Mile Creek, Buttermilk Creek, &c. &c. many -romantic scenes and splendid falls; but it would interfere with the -design of this work to stop to describe them. I cannot, however, leave -the high falls on Taghcanic Creek without a passing notice. They are -eight miles from Ithaca, near a landing place called Goodwin's point; -and are two hundred and thirty-eight feet perpendicular! Who shall -attempt to describe such a magnificent exhibition as this; or the -effect it produces on the mind! This is said to be the favorite resort -of parties of pleasure and lovers of the picturesque. And<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> who, but the -real invalid, would ignobly spend his time at Saratoga, when scenes -like these await him in the interior of New-York.</p> - -<p>After passing many fine villages, we at last arrived at the city of -Rochester. It is indeed, a large and flourishing city. It is situated -on both sides of the Genesee river, is well built, mostly of brick, -and contains over thirteen thousand inhabitants. Near the upper part -of the city, the canal crosses the river, by a splendid aqueduct of -red free-stone, eight hundred and four feet in length, having eleven -arches, and elevated fourteen feet above the common level of the water. -While the boat stopped, I went down the river to see the great falls. -They are about eighty rods below where the canal crosses, and are -ninety-seven feet perpendicular. Here <i>Sam Patch</i> made his last leap in -the autumn of 1829. In the centre of the river, and at the verge of the -precipice over which the water falls, is a ledge of rocks, called Table -Rock, about six or seven feet in height above the water. On this Table -Rock, a scaffold was erected, about twenty-five feet high, so that from -the top of the scaffold to the bottom of the falls, the perpendicular -height was one hundred and twenty-five feet. From this giddy height, -Sam Patch made his "last jump," in the presence of a vast multitude -of people, who had assembled to witness this daring feat, and, as it -proved, fatal leap. Sam never rose from the boiling flood below; but -his body was carried by the current to the mouth of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> the river at the -lake, and was there found, the next spring. Who will be the biographer -of <i>Sam Patch</i>? What a pity it is some phrenologist had not examined -his head. He must have had a tremendous <i>jumping bump</i>. For myself, I -could not stand on the dizzy brink of the river, and look down into -the awful chasm below, with any tolerable degree of composure. These -things, however, much depend upon practice. A sailor would have thought -nothing of standing on the most projecting rock; or of walking along -the highest precipice.</p> - -<p>In 1811, the site of Rochester was a wilderness; now it is a large -city. Its great staple of trade is flour. It contains eleven flouring -mills with fifty-three run of stones; and can grind twelve thousand -bushels of wheat in twenty-four hours.</p> - -<p>After travelling from this place sixty-three miles, we found ourselves -at Lockport, on the <i>mountain ridge</i>. At this place, the canal has a -double row of locks adjacent to each other; five for ascending, and -five for descending; each twelve feet deep, making the ascent sixty -feet. This is the most admirable work of the whole canal. Between -the two rows of locks, are stone steps, guarded on each side by iron -railings. In 1821, there were here but two houses; now, it contains -four hundred, and is a pleasant village.</p> - -<p>Passengers for Niagara Falls, leave the canal here, as they are as near -them, at this place, as they would be at Buffalo. After travelling -nineteen miles, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> first three of which, was through a deep cut of -limestone, from twenty to thirty feet in depth, we came in full view -of the majestic Niagara river. On the margin of this stream, the canal -passes by the village of Black Rock, to its termination at the city of -Buffalo.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></p> - - -<p>The city of Buffalo is beautifully situated on lake Erie, near its -outlet; and possesses the advantages of a lake and canal navigation. -It is built chiefly of brick, containing many elegant buildings, and -has ten or twelve thousand inhabitants. In the harbor lay many vessels, -steamboats and canal boats, and it exhibited all the show, stir and -bustle of a maritime city. From this place, you have a fine view of the -lake, Canada shore, and the surrounding country. I was, at this time, -only twenty-three miles from the celebrated Falls of Niagara, and I -could not pass so near without going to view them.</p> - -<p>After spending a day in Buffalo, I took a steamboat down Niagara -river, to visit the falls. On the Canada side, you have a view of the -small village of Waterloo, near which, are the ruins of fort Erie, -the theatre of several severe battles during the late war.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> On the -American side, three miles below Buffalo, is Black Rock, a pleasant -village, having much romantic scenery around it. Niagara river, above -the falls, is of various breadths, from a mile and a half, to three or -four miles. After passing Grand island, I beheld the spray arising like -a cloud, from the falls; and could hear the roaring of the water. I -landed from the boat, about two miles above them on the American side, -and took a stage. Immediately on alighting at the hotel, I walked down -to the river, and beheld for the first time, the celebrated Falls of -Niagara. Such a vast body of water, falling into so deep a chasm, with -a noise like thunder, and with such power that it shakes the ground on -which you stand, strikes one with wonder and awe! One is inclined to -stand still, and gaze in silence. Other falls and deep chasms I had -seen; but this presented itself on such a gigantic scale, and so much -out of proportion to other objects of the kind, that it appeared to my -unpractised eye incomprehensible. Other and abler pens have given the -world many minute descriptions of these falls; and were it otherwise, -I have not the vanity to suppose any description I could give would -enable any one to form a full and just conception of them.</p> - -<p>Nature has here laid out her work upon a large scale, and with a -master hand. A mighty river, the outpourings of the great lakes above, -tumbling rapidly along for a mile over its rocky bed, here leaps -quietly down one hundred and sixty feet into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> awful chasm below. -Above the falls, the banks slope gently down to the water's edge; so -that you can stand on the brink of the precipice, and put your foot -into the water where it rolls over it—below, the bank immediately -rises, and forms a chasm three hundred feet in depth. Eight or ten rods -below the falls, is the passage down to the ferry; composed, most of -the way, of enclosed wooden steps; and the remainder, of steps made in -the rocky cliff. I went down these steps, crossed over in the boat, -tossed to and fro by the boiling, raging flood; and liberally sprinkled -with the spray of the falls. On the Canada side, the bank is not -perpendicular, so that a zigzag road has been made for passengers to -travel up and down it. On this side, is the Table Rock, near the falls; -and here you have the best view of them. At this spot a flight of steps -lead to the bottom; and from this point a person can go one hundred -and fifty-three feet under the sheet of water. Dresses and a guide are -furnished to those who have the curiosity to enter.</p> - -<p>On my return to the American side, I walked over the bridge to Bath -island, and from that to Goat island. This last island contains perhaps -twelve acres, is covered with a fine growth of wood, has a walk near -the water, all around it, and benches and summer house to rest the -weary traveller. It divides the falls, and is probably twenty rods -wide on the cliff, over which the water pitches. At the foot of this -island, a circular enclosed stairway has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> been built by N. Biddle, Esq. -President of the U.S. Bank, by which a person can descend down the -cliff, between the two sheets of water. And here it was that Sam Patch -leaped one hundred and eighteen feet from a platform, made by ladders. -The trees on the island are covered with names; and the register at the -hotel not only contains names, but sentiments also. I spent an evening -very pleasantly in conning them over.</p> - -<p>On the Canada side there are one large hotel and some few dwelling -houses; on the American side, are two large hotels, and a fine village, -called Manchester. After spending two days at the falls, I took a seat -in the stage for Buffalo.</p> - -<p>New-York, I believe, possesses more of the sublime and beautiful, than -all the remainder of the United States. It has its mountains, lakes, -springs, rivers, water-falls, canals, railroads and edifices.—Other -States can shew some of these, in a greater or less degree; but as a -whole, New-York must bear the palm. Its resources are vast—it is a -nation of itself. But notwithstanding its attractive scenery and rich -lands, the "western fever" rages here as violent as on the sterile -hills of New-Hampshire. I found more families from New-York at the West -and moving thither, than from all the New-England States. They, too, -seek a better country; and some would undoubtedly be discontented if -they lived in paradise.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p> - -<p>At Detroit, I saw a man who said he had just made a purchase of a -tract of land near Pontiac, about thirty miles distant in a northwest -direction. He lived near Rochester, had a fine farm, raised from five -hundred to one thousand bushels of wheat a year; a ready market and the -average price one dollar a bushel; clear of debt, and growing rich; but -the lands were cheap at the West, so he sold his farm, and was moving -into the wilderness! The man was about sixty years of age: so if he has -good luck, by the time he gets a farm well cleared, a good house and -improvements, he will be too old to enjoy earthly possessions. But just -the same feeling is manifested in Kentucky, Ohio and Indiana. And even -in Illinois itself, some I found, seeking a better country farther west!</p> - -<p>Persons travelling to Illinois, or farther west, can take passage -in a vessel or steamboat from Buffalo to Chicago. The distance by -water is one thousand miles; for they must go through lake Erie, St. -Clair, Huron and lake Michigan. The distance by land is not so far by -one half; but the water passage is the cheapest, attended with less -hardship, and much the best way to convey goods. There are two other -routes to Chicago. Take a steamboat at Buffalo for Monroe, in Michigan -Territory; and from thence, there is a good stage route, through -Tecumseh, Niles, Michigan city, and along the south end of the lake -Michigan to Chicago—or take a steam<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>boat to Detroit; from thence the -stage to the mouth of St. Joseph, and cross the lake in a schooner to -Chicago. My object was to see something of Michigan; so I took passage -in a steamboat for Detroit.</p> - -<p>On board this boat, there were probably two hundred passengers; -besides a number of horses and oxen, wagons, household furniture and -baggage.—Most of them were emigrants, chiefly destined to some part of -Michigan. The cabin passage is eight dollars—deck three dollars. Of -the whole number not more than ten took the cabin passage. We stopped -at Portland, Erie, Ashtabula, Fairport, Cleaveland and Sandusky, and -arrived at Detroit in two days—distance three hundred and five miles.</p> - -<p>Cleaveland is the most important place on the south shore of lake -Erie. The Ohio canal here enters the lake, so that a person can go -down this canal into the Ohio river; and from thence take steamboat -conveyance to the western States. It is quite a large town; containing -five thousand inhabitants, and has three spacious houses for public -worship, a seamen's chapel, and two banks. There are three newspapers -published here, and it shows all the stir and bustle of business and -trade. This place has rapidly increased within a few years: and if it -continues to improve in the same ratio, it will soon take its station -alongside of Buffalo and Cincinnati. Its inhabitants are very spirited -and enterprising. They have contributed, as I am informed, fifteen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> -thousand dollars for the purpose of levelling down some of the high -bluffs between the village and harbor, and grading the streets.</p> - -<p>The flood of emigration, constantly pouring onward, to the far West, is -immense. In the year 1833, about sixty thousand emigrants left Buffalo, -to go to the West by water; and in 1834, not less than eighty thousand -there embarked, besides those who took passage from other ports. No -calculation can be made, of the number that have passed along the south -shore of the lake by land; but, I was informed, a gentleman counted two -hundred and fifty wagons in one day!</p> - -<p>The western world is all alive. The lakes, the streams, the prairies, -and forests, are all teeming with life, and exhibit all the noise and -bustle of human industry and enterprise. In 1825 there were but one -steamboat and a few small schooners on lake Erie; now there are thirty -steamboats, and one hundred and fifty schooners and two large brigs! -And the birds and beasts of the forest are continually alarmed at the -sight of human habitations and villages, so suddenly arising, within -their own exclusive haunts and pleasure grounds! Monroe, in Michigan, -is pleasantly situated on the river Raisin, opposite to Frenchtown, -and is six miles from its mouth. It is forty miles, by water, south of -Detroit, and is the county seat for Monroe county, has a court house, -jail, land office, three hotels, twenty-six stores, and probably two -thousand inhabitants.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> It is situated in a fertile district, and has -a number of mills and distilleries in its vicinity. A beautiful large -steamboat, called the Monroe, was built here, the past season, and made -its first trip down the lake while I was at Buffalo. As this town is -nearer on a direct line from Buffalo to the West than Detroit, it will -shortly become the great thoroughfare of travel to the western country.</p> - -<p>A new town has recently been laid out, on the north bank of the Maumee -river. It takes the name of the river; and is situated on a plat of -table land elevated forty feet above the stream, at the foot of the -falls, and ten miles from lake Erie. The river is deep and navigable -for all vessels sailing on the lake. The falls are about thirty feet, -and afford an immense water power—equal to that of Lowell. It has -now fifty dwelling houses, three stores, one tavern, a saw and grist -mill; and preparations are making to erect a large number of buildings -the ensuing season, among which are four taverns. Two doctors are -already settled here; and a limb of the law was on the track to join -them. A glance at the map will at once show its favorable location, -for a large and flourishing town. The Wabash and Erie canal, and the -Cincinnati, Dayton and Erie canal, will both terminate at this place. -It is situated in the disputed territory, claimed by both Ohio and -Michigan; but if it should prove to be healthy, it will soon take rank -with Cleaveland and Detroit. It is thirty miles south of Monroe; and -about the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> same distance west of Lower Sandusky. A large steamboat is -now building here, to run on the lake.</p> - -<p>On the opposite side of the river, and about a mile above, is the -village of Perrysburg, of a hundred houses and twelve stores; but as -its site is low, and on the shoal side of the river, its location is -not therefore so favorable as that of Maumee. There are large tracts -of flat land, both to the east and west of this place, covered with a -heavy growth of timber.</p> - -<p>Detroit is on the river, twenty-five miles above lake Erie, and seven -below lake St. Clair. The river is about a mile wide, and the current -sets down at the rate of from two to three miles an hour. It contains -about three thousand inhabitants; many of whom are French and some -negroes and Indians. Much business is done here; and it will probably -be one of the most important frontier towns; as it possesses a safe -harbor and steamboat navigation to Buffalo, Michilimackinac, Green -Bay, Chicago, &c. It is well laid out, and has some fine streets and -buildings. Its public buildings are a court house, jail, academy, -council house, two banks; a Presbyterian, Episcopalian, Methodist, -Baptist and Catholic churches; arsenal, magazine and commissary store -house.</p> - -<p>The streets near the water are dirty, generally having mean buildings, -rather too many grog shops among them, and a good deal too much -noise and dissipation. The taverns are not generally under<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> the best -regulations, although they were crowded to overflowing. I stopped at -the steamboat hotel, and I thought enough grog was sold at that bar to -satisfy any reasonable demand for the whole village.—When the bell -rang for dinner, I hardly knew what it meant. All in and about the -house jumped and run as if the house had been on fire; and I thought -that to have been the case. I followed the multitude, and found they -were only going into the hall to dinner. It was a rough and tumble game -at knife and fork—and whoever got seated first, and obtained the best -portion of dinner, was the best fellow. Those who came after, must take -care of themselves the best way they could; and were not always able to -obtain a very abundant supply.</p> - -<p>At night, I was obliged to sleep in a small room, having three beds -in it, take a companion and a dirty bed. In travelling, I am always -disposed to make the best of every thing, and complain of nothing if -it can be avoided. And in starting on this journey, I was aware that I -might suffer some hardships and inconveniences; and I had determined -to bear with patience every thing that was bearable; but I had not -expected to be put to the test in the old settled town of Detroit. The -house is large enough, and servants enough, but there was a plentiful -lack of decent accommodations, in and about it.</p> - -<p>The upper streets make a fine appearance, and are pleasant and -ornamented with some fine buildings.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p> - -<p>Two steam ferry boats ply constantly between this, and a small village -called Sandwich, on the Canada side of the river. On a pleasant -afternoon, I crossed the river, and walked three or four miles on the -pleasant Canada shore. From this position, Detroit shows to advantage.</p> - -<p>Detroit has suffered much by disease. Fevers, ague and cholera, swept -off its hundreds. But it is difficult to discover any other cause for -the great number of deaths, than the filthiness of the place, and the -dissipation and exposure of many of its inhabitants. It needs reform; -and I was informed that the subject had arrested the attention of its -best citizens, and they had commenced the work in good earnest.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></p> - - -<p>After spending two days at Detroit, I took the stage for the mouth of -St. Joseph river, on lake Michigan—fare $9,50. The old road leads down -the river, five or six miles, and then inclines to the right into the -interior. The first forty miles is a level, heavily timbered country; -a deep, clayey soil, and a most execrable road. Sometimes the coach -became fast stuck in the deep sloughs; and we had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> to get out the best -way we could, and help dig it out. At others, we found logs laid across -the road for some distance, and the coach jolted so violently over -them, that it was impossible to keep our seat. We started early in the -morning from Detroit, and at ten miles stopped at a decent hotel to -breakfast. It was a framed house, and of sufficient size for a common -country tavern.</p> - -<p>In this day's travel, we found some good dwellings, and one brick -hotel. Late at night, "wearied and worn," we arrived at Ann Arbor, a -flourishing little village on Huron river, which empties into the head -of lake Erie, and is a large clear mill stream. The tavern house is -a large, three story building, finished and painted. A long block of -buildings for stores, a number of mills on the stream, and a few other -buildings, complete the village.</p> - -<p>In the morning we crossed the river, on a very good bridge, and half a -mile further, entered the upper village of Ann Arbor, much larger than -the lower one; having two taverns, a number of stores, dwelling houses, -and a court house. It is the seat of justice for Washtenaw county. Ten -miles below this, on the Huron river, is situated Upsilanti, a pleasant -village. The turnpike road from Detroit to Chicago passes through it; -on which a stage runs, carrying the U.S. mail.</p> - -<p>Soon after leaving this village, we came to the "oak openings." There -are three kinds of land in the western country—prairie land, entirely -destitute<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> of timber, and covered with grass; oak openings, land -thinly covered with timber, like a northern apple orchard; and the -timber land, having a dense forest of trees. All these diversities -of appearance, we found from Detroit to the mouth of the St. Joseph; -although the bur and white oak openings seemed to predominate.</p> - -<p>Michigan is a level country; there are no mountains in it. It is gently -undulating, for the most part; sometimes, too level and wet. It is -abundantly watered and timbered, and a great deal of excellent timber. -I wish I could say as much of the quality of the water. The rivers, -little lakes, (and there are many of them,) streams, springs, and -wells, contain clear, pellucid, transparent water. It is indeed, too -clear to be agreeable to the eye; but it is all impregnated with lime, -or iron, or copperas, or something disagreeable to the taste; and is -in many places, very unhealthy. I do believe there is not a drop of -pure, soft water, in all Michigan. I saw none and could hear of none; -and I made much inquiry, examined every river, lake, or spring, that I -passed, and the result was, I found no pure water that would wash with -soap, or was pleasant to the palate.</p> - -<p>It contains much good land, many pleasant villages, fine situations, -and is settling fast; but I cannot say that it is, generally, healthy.</p> - -<p>It is probable, earth does not afford more rich and beautiful prairies -than are found on the route<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> from Monroe to Michigan city. And -there are fine cultivated farms, mills and villages, and scattered -settlements, all along the southern part of the territory. But I did -not find the ruddy face and vigorous step of the East. The meagre and -pale visage, and shaking frame, spoke a language not to be mistaken.</p> - -<p>We passed Jackson, the seat of justice for Jackson county, near Grand -river, and Marshall, the seat of justice for Calhoun county, on the -bank of the Kalamazoo river, both flourishing villages. In this section -of the country, mill seats are plenty, and there is an abundant supply -of timber.</p> - -<p>At the outlet of Gull lake, I saw a well built mill, on as fine a -privilege as any one could desire. At the lake, there was a dam, which -raised the water four or five feet, and made an abundant supply in the -driest season—and fifty rods below where the mill was erected, there -was a good fall of water.</p> - -<p>Soon after leaving this mill, we came to Gull prairie. This was -the first prairie of much extent that I had seen; and its elegant -appearance afforded me not a little pleasure. On this prairie there is -a small village, and a beautiful prospect around it.</p> - -<p>The roads had become so bad, that we left the stage coach, after two -day's ride, and took a wagon, without any spring seats; and I found it -so fatiguing to ride, that I often preferred walking. When we arrived -at this little village, it was late in the evening, but we had still -twelve miles to go that night.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p> - -<p>It was past midnight when we crossed the Kalamazoo river, at the rope -ferry, and entered the town of Bronson. This is the seat of justice, -or as the term is here, county seat, for Kalamazoo county. The land -office, for the southern part of the territory, is also kept here. We -found a large tavern house and good accommodations, a pleasant village, -and pleasant people.</p> - -<p>Our route now lay through an undulating, open country for twenty miles, -when we came to a house and mill on Pawpaw river where we "ate our -breakfast for our dinner." We now crossed the stream, and travelled a -new road, generally through timbered land, passed seven or eight small -lakes, for twenty-eight miles before we came to a house.</p> - -<p>Here, we found two log houses adjoining each other. It had now become -night, and at this place we were to stay till the next day. I went in, -and asked the woman, if she could get us something to eat. She said, -if we would accept of such fare as she had, she would try. When we -went in to supper, I never was more agreeably surprised in my life. We -found a table neatly set; and upon it, venison steaks, good warm wheat -bread, good butter, wild honey in the white comb, and a good cup of -tea—better fare than we had found in Michigan, and as good as could be -obtained anywhere. Our accommodations at this log house in the woods, -show what people may do if they choose. And I wish some tavern keepers -of our large towns, might<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> happen to call there, and learn a lesson -which they seem too much disinclined to learn at home. Our bill was so -moderate, we added a dollar to it, and hardly thought we had fully paid -our hostess then.</p> - -<p>Twelve miles further, brought us to the river St. Joseph, about a mile -above where it empties into the lake. The river here is thirty rods -wide. We crossed it in a ferry boat, and after ascending a high bluff, -we came in full view of lake Michigan and the St. Joseph village.</p> - -<p>This village is pleasantly situated on a high bluff, on the south -side of the river, and facing the lake; and contains sixty or seventy -houses, two taverns, some half dozen stores, two large warehouses, and -a light house. One tavern, the stores, and a few dwelling houses, are -built underneath the bluff, on the bank of the river. A steamboat plies -between this place and Niles, fifty miles up the river, as it runs, -but only twenty-five miles by land. Just above the village, is a steam -saw mill, which does a good deal of business. This place carries on -considerable trade with the interior; the staple of which is wheat.</p> - -<p>St. Joseph is very unhealthy. At the tavern, I found three persons -sick, and one dangerously so. I called upon the doctor, and he was sick -abed; I called upon the baker, and he was sick abed—and I passed by -another house, where the whole family, consisting of a man, his wife, -and five children, were all sick abed, and so completely helpless, -that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> the neighbors had to take care of them! This is no fiction. The -man's name is Emerson; from the State of New-York. Last spring he came -on to this part of the country with his family and goods in a wagon. -And when he came to Pawpaw river, where we breakfasted, he found no -road direct to St. Joseph. He accordingly cut out the road that we -had travelled to this place, and was the first who came through with -a wagon, a distance of about fifty miles. Soon after his arrival, his -eldest son, a promising youth of fifteen, accidentally was drowned in -the river. The family, one by one, were taken sick; and now, all were -sick and helpless. The man possessed great vigor of mind and body; -had bought him a farm at some distance from the village on the road -he had made, and commenced some improvements, and made great efforts -to persevere and clear it up. But who can withstand the iron grasp of -disease, or the "bold demands of death!" He beheld his family wasting -away and to all appearance, hastening to the grave; and himself, as -sick and helpless as they. A sad catastrophe this, in his prospect of -wealth and bliss in the new world!</p> - -<p>A schooner, called the Philip, plies regularly between this, and -Chicago across the lake; but I had to wait here three days before its -return. I spent the time in traversing the woods and the lake shore. -This lake is a clear, beautiful sheet of water, having a soft sandy -shore, and surrounded by high sandy hills. The river makes a good -harbor, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> there is a sand bar at its mouth, on which there is not -more than five or six feet of water. The average width of the lake is -sixty miles.</p> - -<p>The distance from Detroit to St. Joseph is two hundred miles, and we -had been five days and a half in travelling it. The road was as good -as could be expected in a country so new, and so thinly inhabited. -The land generally is good, and will support a dense population. The -southern part of the territory is thought to contain the best land, and -there are indeed some beautiful prairies. Prairie Round is among the -most beautiful. It contains a number of thousand acres of high, level, -and smooth land; and in the centre there are a hundred acres of higher -land, covered with a beautiful growth of trees.</p> - -<p>The best part of Indiana is on the border of Michigan, and extending -south, on the Wabash river. The southern part of the State contains a -good deal of hilly, rocky and sandy land, unfit for cultivation.</p> - -<p>A territorial road has been laid out from Detroit to St. Joseph; and -a survey of a railroad has been made, nearly on the line of the road, -between the two places; but some time will elapse, before either are -completed.</p> - -<p>Wild game is plenty; deer, ducks, bears, wolves and squirrels are in -sufficient quantity to keep the hunter awake.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p> - -<p>Upon the whole, if good water and good health could be found, Michigan -would be a very desirable country in which to reside.</p> - -<p>As soon as the vessel was ready to depart, I took passage in her. We -sailed round the south end of the lake, and stopped at Michigan city, -a village of twenty or thirty houses, and twelve stores, situated on -the corner of Indiana, among the sand hills of the lake. A small stream -here empties into the lake but affords no harbor for vessels. Some -enterprising citizens have determined to make it a large town; but -nature does not seem much to have seconded their efforts. It is forty -miles from St. Joseph, and just the same distance from Chicago. The -stage road, from Michigan city to Chicago, is, most of the way, on the -sandy beach.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></p> - - -<p>Chicago makes a fine appearance when viewed from the water. It has -a light house, fort and barracks in which a garrison is kept, and -many elegant buildings. It is regularly laid out, on the south side -of Chicago river; the streets running parallel with it, and others -crossing them at right angles. The harbor being too much exposed, a -breakwater<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> is building, so as to render it secure and safe for the -shipping. The town is already compactly built, for more than a mile in -length, and about half that distance in width; and there are a dozen -houses on the north side of the river, with which it is connected by -an elegant bridge. It has thirty-six stores, some of which are large -and elegant, and built of brick; and seven large taverns, filled -with guests to overflowing. It is now, about the size of Exeter, in -New-Hampshire, and is rapidly increasing. Vessels and steamboats come -here from Buffalo, laden with goods and merchandize; and it is the -great thoroughfare for travel to the western country. The trade of -all the upper country centres here; and when the canal is completed, -connecting the lake with the waters of the Illinois river, it must -become the largest town in the State. It is built on a level prairie, -open in full view to the lake, and the soil is enough mixed with sand -to prevent its being very muddy. The lake supplies the town with good, -wholesome water, and as far as I could judge, it is quite healthy.</p> - -<p>While I was at Chicago, the Pottawattomie tribe of Indians, came there -to receive their annuity from the United States government. I could not -accurately ascertain their number, but probably, there were between one -and two thousand, men, women and children. I had before seen the small -remnants of Indian tribes at the north; but never had I seen such a -large body of western Indians assembled to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>gether. I had much curiosity -to see them, and learn something of the Indian character. In this I was -fully gratified.</p> - -<p>Those who have formed high notions of the stateliness and chivalry -of the Indian character, might gain some new ideas, by witnessing, -day after day, the actions and movements of the Pottawattomies. It is -painful to state it, but truth compels me to say, their appearance was, -with but few exceptions, that of a drunken set of miserable vagabonds. -They were generally mounted on horseback, men, women and children; some -had small bells for their horses—some had blankets on, and others had -coats and pantaloons, similar to the whites; and many of them, had -jewels in the nose and ears, and the face painted in various colors and -forms, so as to give them either a ludicrous, or a terrific appearance.</p> - -<p>To all this, perhaps, no one has a right seriously to object. It is -merely a matter of taste; and if they choose to exhibit themselves -in the various hues of the rainbow, or in the terrific aspect of a -warrior, I am willing they should be gratified. But their actions -were beneath the dignity of man, or of beast. They encamped near the -town, on the border of the lake; and above it, on the margin of the -river. I walked all through their encampment, and saw them frequently -in the streets. I found them, generally, bickering, quarrelling, or -fighting; or running their horses through the town, and display<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>ing all -the antics of madmen. Day after day, and night after night, they were -carousing, shouting and fighting. On the lake shore, one of them killed -his wife, by splitting her head open with a hatchet, and then fled! I -did not learn what became of him.</p> - -<p>They are also much addicted to theft. Too lazy to work, they had -rather steal whatever they desire, that comes in their way; and this -propensity and practice has been a fruitful source of the border wars, -between the whites and Indians.</p> - -<p>I have seen hundreds of negroes together on their holidays; when they -had free access to intoxicating liquor if they chose; when they gave -themselves up to pastime and pleasure; and I do say, they appeared much -more civil and decent to themselves and to others, than the Indians. -They did not seem, like the Indians, to lose <i>all</i> self respect. The -negroes generally appear to possess amiable dispositions; and are -faithful friends; are much more pliant and teachable; and if I must -dwell with either negroes or Indians, give me the negroes.</p> - -<p>If the former mode of paying the government annuity to the chief of a -tribe, were objectionable, the present mode of paying each individual, -seems to me to be equally, if not more objectionable. I was informed -that the gross sum of seventy thousand dollars was paid to them -individually; each one an equal portion of that amount. But after -spending a few days in carousing at Chicago, they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> left the town as -they will finally leave the world—carrying nothing with them!</p> - -<p>It appears to me, some different regulations, respecting the Indians, -ought to be adopted. The money now paid them, upon the whole, seems -to do them more hurt than good. Might not the government pay them -in specific articles, instead of money, such as blankets, clothing, -implements of husbandry, &c. There would not be then quite so much -inducement for speculators to prey upon them.</p> - -<p>As to civilization, I am not so sanguine as some are, that it can -be done. The Indians seem to be naturally averse to the restraints -and labor of civilized life. To beg or steal is much more agreeable -to them, than to labor for subsistence. Any thing that looks like -work, they despise. In all cases, where they have come in contact -with the whites, it has been death to the Indian. At the approach of -civilization, they wither away and die; and the remnants of tribes -must flee away to the fastnesses of the wilderness, or perish in the -withering grasp of civilized man. They are to be pitied; but their -unprovoked murders and savage cruelties have steeled the heart against -them. Their cold-blooded murders, in the late war in Illinois, of men, -women and children, and their indecent mutilation and exposure of their -bodies when dead, cannot soon be forgotten or forgiven. Black Hawk, the -cold-blooded instigator and leader in this war, dared not re<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>turn from -his trip to the East through Chicago, and the theatre of his cruelties. -He probably will never again set his foot on the eastern shore of the -Mississippi.</p> - -<p>The country back of Chicago, for the distance of twelve miles, is a -smooth, level prairie; producing an abundance of grass, but too low and -wet for cultivation. The Chicago river is formed by two branches, which -meet at the upper end of the village. The branches come from exactly -opposite directions, and after running some distance, parallel with the -lake, and about a mile from it, here meet each other, and turning at -right angles, flow in a regular straight channel, like a canal, into -the lake. On each side of the town, between these branches and the lake -shore, there is, for some distance, a good growth of wood and timber. -On the lake shore, there are naked sand hills; and these are found all -around the lake.</p> - -<p>This world has undergone great changes since its original creation. -In examining the western country, I came to the conclusion, that a -large portion of it was once under water; and that the lakes formerly -discharged their waters into the sea, through the Illinois and -Mississippi rivers.</p> - -<p>The lakes Michigan, Huron, St. Clair and Erie, are now about -twenty-five feet lower than lake Superior. The falls of St. Mary, at -the outlet of the upper lake, are nothing more than rapids. The water -descends twenty-two feet in the distance of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> three quarters of a mile; -and although canoes can pass them either way, yet they are impassable -to steamboats and vessels. Some years ago, a large vessel did go down -them in safety. It was built on lake Superior, by the north-western Fur -Company, but was found to be too large to be useful in their trade. It -was taken to the falls of St. Mary, and some Indians were hired to take -it down the rapids. They happened to go down in safety; and the vessel -was afterwards sold at Buffalo. Now, the probability is, that these -lower lakes were once nearly on a level with lake Superior; and their -outlet was at the south end of lake Michigan, instead of the Niagara -river.</p> - -<p>Eight or ten miles from the present limits of lake Erie, there is -a regular, well defined shore, once washed by the water; plainly -indicating that the lake was once about twenty feet higher than it now -is. If lake Michigan were ten feet higher than its present level, its -waters would flow into the Illinois river. The Oplane, a branch of the -Illinois, approaches within twelve miles of the lake; and the land -between is low and level. When the water is high, boats now pass from -the lake to the river. At a time of high water, a steamboat attempted -to pass from the Illinois to the lake. After running a day from Ottawa -up the river, the water began to subside, the captain became alarmed, -lest his boat might run aground, and returned.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p> - -<p>The valley of the Illinois river, plainly indicates that a much larger -stream once run there. Had its channel been formed by its present -quantity of water, it would have been not more than forty rods wide; -but now, it carries a breadth of from fifty rods to more than a mile; -it is, therefore, full of shoals and sand bars. The high banks all -along down the stream, are about two miles apart; and the space between -them not occupied by the river, is either a low marsh or a narrow lake.</p> - -<p>When the lakes were high, aided probably by a strong west wind, the -water broke through in the direction of Niagara river; and in process -of time, wore a deep channel, drained the lakes to their present level, -and dried up their outlet, at the south end of lake Michigan. This is -my theory; and whoever will examine the country around the lakes, may -not deem it so wild and extravagant a one, as has been advanced and -believed by mankind.</p> - -<p>Many of the inhabitants of Chicago are from the eastern part of -the country—civil, enterprising and active. I found good society -here—much better than I had expected in a place so new, and of such -rapid growth.</p> - -<p>House rent is high, and provisions are dear. Last spring, potatoes were -sold for a dollar and a half a bushel; and this fall the current price -is a dollar. All this is owing to the rapid increase of the place, and -the immense travel through it. When more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> houses are built, and the -country back of it becomes settled, living will, undoubtedly, be cheap. -To the man of enterprise and business, it affords as good a location as -any in the western country.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></p> - - -<p>At Chicago I found three young men from New-England, who were -travelling to see the western country. We hired two horses and a wagon, -at seventy-five cents a day, and started together into the interior of -Illinois, west of Chicago.</p> - -<p>It was past the middle of October; the air was mild and clear, and the -earth dry. The prairie, which in the spring of the year is so wet and -muddy as to be difficult to pass, we found dry, and a good smooth road -over it; so we travelled merrily on. At the distance of twelve miles -the ground became elevated a few feet, and we found a fine grove of -timber, a few log houses, and the Oplane river. At this place the roads -fork—one goes south, to Ottawa on the Illinois river—the other goes -in a westerly direction, to Galena on the Mississippi. Stages run from -Chicago, over each of these roads to both places, carrying the U.S. -mail.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p> - -<p>The roads in this country are in a state of nature. But the ground is -so smooth, and so entirely free from stones, that when the earth is -dry, you do not find better roads at the north. Indeed, you can travel -in a carriage over most part of the country, woods and all.</p> - -<p>We took the Galena road, forded the river, a stream about four rods -wide, and passed on, over a beautiful, open, prairie country, here -and there a log house, a small grove of timber, or small stream of -water; the land high, dry and rich, and arrived at night at Naper's -settlement, on the Du Page river, thirty-seven miles from Chicago. -Naper was the first settler here. He keeps a public house, very decent -accommodations; has a store and mills, and is forming a village around -him. Here is a large grove of good timber.</p> - -<p>We now left the Galena road and took a course more northerly to the -<i>big</i> and <i>little woods</i>, on Fox river. In travelling twelve miles we -came to the settlement at the lower end of "little woods." In the space -of three miles, we found about twenty families, all in comfortable log -houses; fields fenced and cultivated; a school house erecting, and -a master hired to keep two months. And among the whole number only -one family had been there two years; the remainder had none of them -been there quite a year. The houses were built near the timber, and a -beautiful rich prairie opened before them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p> - -<p>The man who had been here two years, had a hundred acres under fence; -raised a large crop of corn and wheat, and had sold at Chicago, only -thirty miles distant in a straight line, two hundred and twenty bushels -of potatoes for as many dollars. He had built a weir across the river -to catch fish, which I walked down to see. He took his boat, went out -to the pen, and dipped out with a small net half a boat load of fish.</p> - -<p>This is a land of plenty sure enough; and if a man cannot here find -the luxuries of the city, he can obtain all the necessaries of life in -abundance.</p> - -<p>Fox river is a clear stream of water, about twenty rods wide, having a -hard limestone bottom, from two to three feet deep, a brisk current, -and generally fordable. On its banks, and on some other streams, we -occasionally found ledges of limestone; but other than that, we found -no rocks in the State.</p> - -<p>We here forded the river, and travelled all day on its western bank. -We found less timber on this side of the river. On the east side, it -is generally lined with timber to the depth of a mile or more; but the -west side is scarcely skirted with it. It is somewhat singular and -unaccountable, but we found it universally to be the fact, that the -east side of all the streams had much the largest portion of timber.</p> - -<p>We passed a number of log houses, all of which had been built the -present season, and came at last to the upper house on the river. The -man told us,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> he had been here with his family only three days.—In -attempting to get at the head of population, we more than once thought -of the story of the Ohio pumpkin vine; and concluded if we accomplished -it, we should be obliged to run our horses. He said, in the morning, -his was the upper house on the river; but a man had made a location -above him, and perhaps had already built him a house.</p> - -<p>We went a few miles above this, forded the river, passed through -the woods into the open prairie, and started down the east side. We -travelled on, until it became dark. We were in an open prairie, without -any road, a cloudy night, and had no means of directing our course. It -was a great oversight, but we had no fire works with us, and the wolves -began to howl around at a distance. We concluded, we should be obliged -to stay out that night, and without any fire. A man accustomed to the -new country, would probably have thought nothing of it; but to me, who -had never lodged out doors in my life, to be obliged to camp out in a -new country, and among the wolves, and such other wild animals as chose -to come along, it was not quite so pleasant. I confess I began to have -some misgivings in my own mind, whether this new world ought, in fact, -to be called a paradise.</p> - -<p>We knew that if there were any houses in that region, they would be -near the woods; we accordingly obliqued to the right, and after some -time travelling saw a light, which led us to a house.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p> - -<p>These log houses generally have one large room, in which the family -cook, eat and lodge; and if any strangers come, they lodge in the same -room with the family, either in a bed or on the floor, as may be the -most convenient. They are built of logs locked together at the corners; -the interstices filled with timber split like rails, and plastered over -with clay. The roofs are covered with shingles about four feet long; -the chimneys are built on the outside, with wood, and lined with clay; -and the floor is made of split timber. Many of them are quite neat and -warm.</p> - -<p>The next day, we passed a few miles down the river, crossed it, and -travelled twenty or thirty miles west, towards Rock river. Our whole -course lay through an open prairie. We could see timber on either -hand. This day we found a number of gravel hills, the tops of which -were coarse, naked gravel, and looked white at a distance. They were -from ten to twenty feet high. We walked up to the top of the highest -one, and had an extended view of the surrounding country. From this -elevation, we could see the timber on the border of Rock river.</p> - -<p>We obliqued more to the south, came to a grove of timber and a house. -Here we stayed that night. The next day we took a southeasterly -direction, passed one house, and came to Fox river, where the Galena -road crosses it. We forded the river, and travelling over an open -rolling prairie twenty miles in a southeasterly direction, came to -Walker's grove,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> on the Du Page river, forty miles south of Chicago. -Here we found a tavern, saw and grist mill, and something of a village, -having two or three framed houses among the log huts.</p> - -<p>The U.S. mail stage passes from Chicago through this place, Ottawa, -Peoria and Springfield to St. Louis; and agreeably to our previous -arrangement, I here left my companions, who returned to Chicago; and -I took the stage for the south. I had travelled with them just long -enough to be fully sensible of the great loss I sustained at parting. -Thus it is with the traveller. He forms acquaintances and finds -friends; but it is only to part with them, probably forever.</p> - -<p>Before I go into the lower part of the State, I shall stop here, -and say a few words of the appearance, present condition and future -prospects of the northern part of Illinois. I feel in some degree -qualified to do this, not only from my own observation, but from -information obtained from intelligent and respectable sources.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></p> - - -<p>The northern part of Illinois is beautifully diversified with groves of -timber and rolling prairies. The timber consists of the various kinds -of oak, rock and white maple, beach, locust, walnut, mulberry, plum, -elm, bass wood, buckeye, hackberry, sycamore, spice wood, sassafras, -haws, crab apple, cherry, cucumber, pawpaw, &c. There is some cedar, -but little pine. The shores of Michigan have a large supply of pine -timber, and from this source the lumber for buildings at Chicago is -obtained.</p> - -<p>The prairies are sometimes level, sometimes gently undulating, and -sometimes hilly; but no where mountainous. The soil is three or four -feet deep; then you come to a bed of clay two or three feet in depth, -and then gravel. The soil is a rich, black loam; and when wet, it -sticks to the feet like clay. Manure has no beneficial effect upon it; -but where it has been cultivated, it produces an abundant crop, the -first year, not quite as good as succeeding years; and it seems to be -quite inexhaustible.</p> - -<p>The prairies are covered with a luxuriant growth of native grass, -which, when it gets its full growth is generally about as high as a -man's shoulders.—They are destitute of trees, shrubs, or stones; and -although the surface may be undulating, yet it is so smooth, that they -can be mown as well as the smoothest old field in New-England. In the -spring<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> of the year, a great variety of beautiful flowers shoot up -among the grass; so that the face of nature exhibits the appearance of -an extended flower garden. The prairie grass is unlike any kind I have -seen at the north; but it affords excellent fodder for horses, neat -cattle and sheep. A finer grazing country I had never seen. The grass -appears to have more nourishment in it, than at the north. I saw beef -cattle, fatted on the prairie grass alone, and I challenge Brighton to -produce fatter beef, or finer flavored.</p> - -<p>Towards the lake, the land is gently undulating; farther west, on Fox -and Rock rivers, it is rolling; and as you approach Galena on the -Mississippi, it becomes more hilly and broken. All this country seems -to lack, is timber and water. There are rivers enough, but not many -small streams and springs. But both of these defects can in a good -measure be remedied. Good water can be obtained almost any where by -digging wells from twenty to thirty feet in depth; and fuel must be -supplied by the coal, which is found generally in abundance throughout -the State. Bricks can be used for building; and hedge rows for fences.</p> - -<p>The coal is excellent for the grate. It burns free, and emits such a -brilliant light, that any other in a room is hardly necessary. It is -now used in many places, in preference to wood, although that is now -plenty. Blacksmiths use it for the forge;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> and at one shop, the man -told me he could dig and haul enough in half a day to last him a month.</p> - -<p>The government of the United States granted to the State of Illinois -a tract of land ten miles in width and eighty miles in length, -extending from Chicago to Ottawa, for the purpose of making a canal -to connect the waters of the lake with the Illinois river, and within -these limits, it is supposed the canal will pass. This tract has been -surveyed, put into market and much of it sold; but most of the land in -the northern part of the State had not even been surveyed when I was -there. Not a survey had been made on Fox river. The settlers took as -much land as they pleased, and where they pleased; and as there was an -abundance for all, none found fault. Before this time, I presume, the -land has been surveyed; and the peace and quietness of the Fox river -settlement, may have been a little disturbed by the <i>carelessness</i> of -the United States' surveyors, in running lines somewhat diverging from -the stakes and fences which its early settlers had set up as the bounds -of their farms.</p> - -<p>But a large portion of the northern half of the State, is not in the -market, and perhaps may not be for two years to come. This very land, -however, is settling every day. All a man has to do, is to select his -land and settle down upon it. By this act he gains a <i>pre-emption -right</i> to one hundred and sixty acres; and before the auction sale, -enters his land at the land office, pays a dollar and a quarter<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> an -acre, and receives his title. When land has once been through the -auction and not sold, it can be taken at any time, by paying a dollar -and a quarter an acre, and receive a title.</p> - -<p>Upon the whole, I think the upper part of Illinois offers the greatest -inducements to the emigrant, especially from the northern States. It -is a high, healthy, beautiful country; and there are now plenty of -good locations to be made. A young man, with nothing but his hands -to work, may in a few years obtain a competency. The whole country -produces great crops of wheat, corn and potatoes, and all the fruits -and vegetables of the north. Apple and peach trees grow faster and more -vigorous here than at the east; and there is a native plum tree, which -bears excellent fruit.</p> - -<p>I took much pains to ascertain whether it was subject to the fever and -ague; and from the inquiries I made, and the healthy appearance of the -people, I am persuaded it is not. I found only one person sick with -that disease, in all the upper country, and she was an old woman from -Indiana; and she told me she had it before she left that State.—There -is plenty of game—the prairie hen, about the size of the northern hen, -deer, ducks, wild turkies, and squirrels; also an abundance of wild -honey.</p> - -<p>There is another reason why the northern part of the State is -preferable. Chicago of itself is, and will be, something of a market -for produce; but it is the best spot in the whole State, to carry -produce<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> to be transported to a northern market. From this, it is -carried all the way by water to New-York city; and the distance is -no greater than from the middle and lower parts of the State to -New-Orleans, and the expense of transportation the same.</p> - -<p>But after all, there is no such place as a perfect elysium on earth; -and to this bright picture of the new world, there must be added some -slight shades. In the first place there are many prairie wolves all -over the country, so that it is almost impossible to keep sheep. In -travelling over the country, I have started half a dozen in a day; they -did not appear to be very wild; but they seldom or never attack a man, -unless retreat is cut off, or sorely pressed by hunger. They are of a -brown color, and of the size of a large dog. The men have a good deal -of sport in running them down, and killing them.—They take a stick, -mount a fleet horse, soon come up with them, and knock them on the head.</p> - -<p>A man on Fox river told me he made a wolf pen over a cow that got -accidentally killed, and caught twelve wolves in one week! As the -country becomes settled they will disappear. There are but few bears; -the country is too open for them. I had one or two meals of bear -meat, but it is not at all to my taste. Then, there are the prairie -rattlesnakes, about a foot long. Their bite is not considered very -dangerous. There is a weed, growing universally on the prairie, that -is a certain cure for it. They<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> are not, however, plenty. Men told me, -that they had passed a whole year without seeing one.</p> - -<p>Then, to prey upon the fields of the husbandman, there are the -blackbirds and squirrels. They are the same in kind with those of the -north, and their rapacity seems to have lost nothing, by living at the -west. The blackbird is not a bird of the forest; it only follows close -upon the heels of population.</p> - -<p>The winters are as cold, perhaps, as at the north, but of shorter -duration. They commence later and end earlier. The Indians make their -poneys get their living in the winter; and cattle will live if they -can have a range in the woods; but the farmer can have as much hay as -he chooses, only for the cutting; the good husbandman will, therefore, -have enough to keep his cattle in good heart during the winter.</p> - -<p>Men are apt to judge of a new country by the impulse of feeling. The -enthusiastic admirer of nature, when he beholds the extended prairies, -lofty groves and pellucid streams, represents it as a perfect paradise. -But those who think more of good roads, good coaches, good houses -and good eating, than they do of the beauties of nature, curse the -whole country and quit it in disgust. But to prevent all mistakes, -be it known to all whom it may concern, that in this new country, -fields do not grow ready fenced and planted, and elegant houses beside -them; pancakes are not found on trees, or roasted pigs, running about -squealing to be eaten.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p> - -<p>The jaundiced eye sees nothing in its true light.</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 10em;"> -——"The diff'rence is as great between<br /> -The optics seeing, as the object seen;<br /> -Or fancy's beam enlarges, multiplies,<br /> -Contracts, inverts, and gives a thousand dyes." -</p> - -<p>Many anecdotes were told me, of the different views the same individual -would have of the same place, under different circumstances. An -emigrant from Vermont, with his wife, children and goods, started for -the western world in a wagon. The country was new, and the roads so bad -that their progress was slow and fatiguing. At length, after enduring -many privations and hardships in a journey of twelve hundred miles, -they safely arrived in Illinois, and located themselves on a fine, rich -spot of ground, in the interior. He hastily threw up a temporary hut -for their present accommodation; but they were all too much wearied and -worn, vigorously to exert themselves. He became sad himself; his wife, -unable to restrain her feelings, began to sob aloud, and the children -joined the concert. They could not divert their thoughts from the home, -neighbors and friends they had left. The prairie and wild wood had no -charms for them. After three or four days of despondency, they picked -up their goods, loaded their wagon, and trudged all the way back again -to Vermont. Vermont had, however, lost <i>some</i> of its charms. It did -not appear quite so fine as they had expected. After spending another -cold winter there, they began to think<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> Illinois, upon the whole, was -the better place; and that they had been very foolish in leaving it. -So, they picked up their duds again, returned to the same spot they -had left, and were satisfied, contented and happy. The man has now an -excellent farm, good house, and an abundance of the necessaries and -conveniences of life. In short, he is an independent farmer, and would -not now, upon any consideration, return to Vermont.</p> - -<p>An instance, in some respects similar to this, occurred some years ago, -in an emigrant from the western part of the State of New-Hampshire.—He -sold his farm, and started for Ohio. His wife and children, and a -portion of his furniture, he put into a large wagon, drawn by three or -four yoke of oxen; and three cows of a peculiar breed, he also took -with him. They proceeded on about five hundred miles, probably as far -as Buffalo, when they all became weary, and so excessively fatigued -with their journey, that they lost all relish for the western country, -and wished themselves back again. At this time, they held a council, -and agreed, without a dissenting voice, to return to New-Hampshire. -They accordingly wheeled about, cows and all, and trudged back to the -town they had left; having performed a journey of a thousand miles with -an ox-team, at great expense, and apparently to no beneficial purpose -whatever. He did not, however, like the Vermonter, again return.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> - -<p>But the result of the trip was not so disastrous as had been -anticipated. At the very time of their return, a much better farm than -the one he had left was offered for sale for ready money. He bought -it at a reduced price, and immediately settled upon it. He then made -a calculation upon his present and former condition; and after taking -into consideration the expenses of his journey, the sale of one farm -and purchase of another, he found himself worth at least a thousand -dollars more than he was previous to the transaction!</p> - -<p>And here, I would give a caution to the emigrant who intends to -settle in the western country, not to place implicit confidence in -what the inhabitants of one section may say of other portions of it. -If they mean to be honest in giving an opinion, self-interest as in -other places, strangely warps their judgment. Land holders and actual -settlers are anxious to build up their own village and neighborhood; -and therefore, they praise their own section and decry the others. At -Detroit, we are told that Monroe is a very sickly place; at Monroe, -Detroit is unhealthy; and both will concur that Chicago is too -unhealthy for an emigrant to think of enjoying life in it. In Michigan, -that is the most healthy, pleasant and best portion of the West; in -Illinois, that becomes the promised land. Indeed, so contradictory -are their statements, that little reliance ought to be placed upon -them; and the better way for the emigrant is, if he cannot obtain the -necessary informa<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>tion from disinterested travellers, to go and examine -for himself. Eastern people, who travel no farther than Michigan, -generally form an unfavorable opinion of Chicago and Illinois; but were -they to travel over that State, they would soon change their opinion.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></p> - - -<p>But I have dwelt long enough on the upper country. I took the stage -and travelled twenty-five miles over an open prairie, passing only one -house, and arrived at night at Holderman's grove. This is a pleasant -grove of excellent timber, having by its side a number of good houses -and large cultivated fields.</p> - -<p>The next morning, we rode fifteen miles to Ottawa, where we -breakfasted. Here the Illinois and Fox rivers join, and appear to be -nearly of equal size, both about twenty rods wide. The village is on -the east side of the Illinois river, which we crossed in a ferry boat. -A tavern, some houses and stores are built on a small flat under the -hill, and a number of houses on a bluff, two hundred feet above the -river. Steamboats come up as high as this place, unless the water be -quite low. If it be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> not a sickly place, I am much mistaken. The fever -and ague seems to be the prevailing disease. I have observed that -situations on the western rivers are generally unhealthy.</p> - -<p>The river diverges to the west, and the road down the country -immediately leaves it. In travelling twenty-five miles, I found myself -fourteen from the river. Here, I left the stage, and went to Hennipen, -a small village on the Illinois river. It is regularly laid out on a -high, level prairie, which extends three miles back, and consists of -two taverns, four stores, a dozen dwelling houses and a court house—it -being the seat of justice for Putnam county. I found a number of people -sick in this place with the fever and ague.</p> - -<p>Here I crossed the river, about fifty rods wide, in a ferry boat, and -found on the other side about two miles of heavy timbered bottom land, -subject to overflow. From this, I ascended a high bluff, passed three -or four miles of oak openings, and then came into the open prairie.</p> - -<p>Ten miles from the river, a new town, called Princeton, is laid out in -the prairie, on the stage road leading from Peoria to Galena. Three -buildings, one of which is a store where the post office is kept, had -been erected when I was there; but as it is in a healthy situation, and -surrounded by a beautiful rich country, it may in time become a large -village.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p> - -<p>I travelled some distance in a northerly direction, between great and -little Bureau rivers. The larger stream has a number of mills upon -it. The country around here, is too similar to the upper part of the -State to need a particular description. High rolling prairies, skirted -with timber, every where abound in this region, and present to the -eye a most beautiful landscape. It is mostly settled by people from -New-England; and they appeared healthy, contented and happy—and are in -fact, becoming rich and independent farmers.</p> - -<p>One northern man I called upon, whose past and present condition may be -similar to many others. I will state it for the edification of those -who live on the rocky soil of New-England. While at the north, he lived -on a hilly and rocky farm; had a large family, and was obliged to work -hard and use the strictest economy, to support them, and meet the -current expenses of the year. Tired of severe labor and small gains, he -sold his farm and moved to the State of Illinois. He had been here two -years; has now one hundred acres under fence; raised the present season -fifteen hundred bushels of corn, three hundred of wheat; has seventy -head of neat cattle and sixty hogs. He has a fine timber lot near his -house, in which is an abundance of the sugar maple. He had killed, the -present season, four beef cattle, the last one just before I called -upon him; and fatter and better flavored beef I never saw. All the -cattle grow exceedingly fat on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> the prairie grass; so much so that corn -will add nothing to it. A saw and grist mill are within seven miles -of him. He was getting out timber, and intended to put up a two story -house in the spring. I enquired particularly as to the health of his -family and neighborhood. He informed me it had been very healthy; his -own family had not any of them been sick abed a day, since they came -into the country. Two of his daughters are well married, and settled on -farms near him. Let every farmer at the north, who has to tug and toil -on the sterile and rocky soil of New-England, to support his family, -judge for himself, whether it is better to go to the West, or stay -where he is. Whether, in fact, it is better to struggle for existence, -and feel the cold grasp of poverty, or to roll in plenty and live at -ease.</p> - -<p>This region was somewhat the theatre of Indian cruelties in the last -war with the whites. One northern man became their victim in this -settlement. His name was Elijah Philips, of New-Hampshire. When he was -at the age of twenty-one, he took his pack on his back, travelled to -the West, and located himself in what is called the Yankee Settlement, -on the Bureau river. He was a persevering, hardy son of the North. He -built a house, fenced in a field, obtained some stock and a few hogs; -and was in a fair way to gain a competency and become an independent -farmer. Just at this time, the Indian<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> war broke out, with the -blood-thirsty Black Hawk as a leader.</p> - -<p>Murders having been committed above them, the settlers deemed their -situation insecure, and fled to the east side of the Illinois river. -After remaining there awhile, the war still raging, and its termination -uncertain, seven of the settlers armed themselves with guns and -bayonets, took a wagon, and went to the settlement to bring away such -articles of household furniture and husbandry as they could; fearing -the Indians might destroy them. They spent the day in collecting their -articles together. At night, they left them and the wagon where they -were, and concluded to go themselves to a house half a mile below, -which was deemed more secure. Here they slept quietly all night, opened -the door early in the morning, looked all around, but saw no signs of -Indians. Philips and another young man said they would go up to the -other house and commence loading the wagon. They started off together.</p> - -<p>In about twenty rods from the house, the path led along by a point of -timber that made out into the prairie; and when they had gone about -half way to this point, the other young man stopped, returned back, -and Philips passed on alone. He had just got into the house, when he -heard a piercing cry of alarm from Philips, and in a moment after, the -report of two guns. On running to the door, he saw Philips prostrate on -the ground, and twenty or thirty Indians leaping out of the thicket. -He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> rallied his companions, as they had not all yet risen, caught two -guns, handed one to a man near him, and by the time they reached the -door, the Indians were coming round the corner of the house. On seeing -the guns with fixed bayonets, they dodged back. In a moment, they were -all at the ends and rear of the house, rending the air with their -astounding war cry, flourishing their tomahawks in menace and defiance; -but took special care not to come in front of the door. The settlers -were all young men—the onset had been so sudden and boisterous, that -they were taken entirely by surprise, and hardly knew what they did. -On a moment's reflection, they concluded, if they contended manfully, -there might be some chance for life. Although the number of Indians -might be ten to one of theirs, yet they had the advantage of being -within a well built log house, impenetrable by balls.</p> - -<p>Spirited and prompt action saved them. While the Indians were hovering -round, in doubt what course to take to dislodge them, they dug out a -chink between the logs in the rear, and thrust out their guns. The -moment this was done, the Indians changed the tone of their yells, -leaped for the woods, fell flat on their faces and crawled unperceived -away.</p> - -<p>They now felt relieved from immediate danger. They knew there was a -company of horse at Hennipen, fifteen miles distant; and their only -safe course seemed to be, to send for them if they could.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> They had a -horse with them, and he was feeding on the prairie about thirty rods -from the house, nearly on the opposite side from the spot where the -Indians entered the woods; but as they could not know where they might -be, none deemed it prudent to go out to catch him. They called the -horse, however, and although he was one generally hard to catch, he now -started at once, came to the door, thrust in his head and stood still -while the bridle was put on. One of their number mounted, and rode -express to Hennipen.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon, the troop arrived; reconnoitered the neighborhood; -found the Indian trail; followed it a number of miles; but they had -gone beyond their reach. On a further examination of the woods, it was -apparent, the Indians had been hovering around them all the day before -while at work; but were too cowardly to attack them, although they knew -the smallness of their number.</p> - -<p>The situation of affairs at night they also knew full well. They truly -supposed that <i>all</i> would pass the spot where they lay in ambush, in -the morning. But accidentally, <i>one</i> passed alone, and discovered them, -and was undoubtedly the cause of saving the lives of all the rest. -But had the other young man passed on instead of returning, and why -he did not, he never could tell, although the question was asked him -immediately after the transaction, he also would have been killed; and -in that event, probably all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> the others would have been sacrificed; for -it was quite early in the morning, and they had not risen.</p> - -<p>On examining Philips, they discovered that two musket balls had entered -his body—one in the region of the heart, so that he must have died -immediately. His remains were carried to Hennipen for interment; and -when I passed that way, I stopped at his grave to show, what I felt, -respect to his memory. On a small eminence in the open prairie, half -a mile east of the village, repose the remains of Elijah Philips. And -although no monumental inscription tells the spot where he so suddenly -started for eternity, or "storied urn" adorns his grave; although of -humble birth, yet he was a young man of much vigor and enterprise, and -bid fair to become a useful member of society. Let his memory live "in -story and in song," and be handed down to posterity with that of the -other victims of savage cruelty.</p> - -<p>No apprehensions are now entertained by the settlers, of attacks by the -Indians. Black Hawk and his followers have gone beyond the Mississippi, -and only a few remnants of Indian tribes remain in the whole State. -Years will not efface the memory of the many deeds of extreme cruelty, -committed by the Indians in this short, yet bloody war. Acts of cruelty -and outrage were perpetrated, too horrid and indecent to mention; and -so perfectly useless as it respected the result of the war, that they -could<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> have been committed only to glut a most fiend-like and savage -vengeance.</p> - -<p>I cannot admire the Indian character. They are sullen, gloomy and -obstinate, unless powerfully excited, and then, they exhibit all the -antics of madmen.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></p> - - -<p>After spending a few days viewing the country in this vicinity, I -again crossed the river at Hennipen, and passed on to the stage road. -The next day, I took the stage, and went to Peoria, the county seat -of Peoria county, which stands on the site of fort Clark. This is -quite a village. It is regularly laid out on a beautiful prairie, on -the western bank of the Illinois river; has a brick court house, two -taverns, a dozen stores, and about twenty dwelling houses, some of them -quite elegant. It is eighty miles from Ottawa, one hundred and sixty -from Chicago, one hundred and fifty from Galena, one hundred and fifty -by land and two hundred by water from St. Louis.</p> - -<p>The river here swells out to more than a mile in width, and the -opposite shore is low, marshy land. Peoria seems to be subject to -bilious fevers and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> fever and ague; but I could perceive no cause -for its being unhealthy, unless it was the river and marshy land on the -other side. The water is brought to the village in an aqueduct, from -a high bluff, half a mile back of it, and appeared to be excellent. -A number of deaths had occurred, previous to my arrival; and I saw a -number of pale-faced invalids.</p> - -<p>In coming to this place, I passed over a fine country, much more -settled, with larger fields and more extensive improvements than I -found in the upper part of the State; but still it was diversified with -rolling prairies and groves of timber. While the mail was changing at -one of the post offices, I passed on and came to a log school house, -where all the scholars studied aloud. This was quite a novelty to me. -More discordant sounds never grated on the ear; and if the master had -a musical one, he must have been severely punished. I asked him, if -his scholars commonly studied in that manner; and he said they did, -although he thought they now hollowed a little louder than usual. This -inconvenient practice of some of our ancient schools, I supposed had -been entirely done away; but on enquiry, I was informed it still held -its sway to some extent in many of the western States.</p> - -<p>Stages run from Peoria (through Springfield), to St. Louis, to Galena, -and to Chicago. There is a rope ferry just below the village, where -the river is narrow. It is a place of a good deal of business,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> quite -a thoroughfare for travellers; and it is supposed by some that it will -shortly become the seat of the State government. I spent three days -here, then took passage on board a steamboat for St. Louis.</p> - -<p>I have often remarked, that the amount taxed by taverners, is, -generally, in an inverse proportion to their accommodations; that is, -the less they furnish their guests, the more they charge. In my present -trip, I have more than once been reminded of an anecdote related to me -some time ago, of a tavern keeper at the south. A gentleman with his -family, travelling in the westerly part of Virginia, was obliged one -night to put up at one of the small country taverns, more suited to -the accommodation of the teamster who sleeps in his wagon, than to the -entertainment of gentlemen and ladies. They were furnished with the -best the house afforded, but it was mean in kind and badly prepared. -Some of them were obliged to sleep on the floor, and those that were -accommodated with beds, were exceedingly annoyed by the insects they -contained. The gentleman arose early, ordered his carriage and asked -the landlord the amount of his bill. He told him, <i>thirty dollars</i>! -The gentleman stared; but at length asked him, what he had had to the -amount of thirty dollars, or even five dollars. The landlord very -politely assured him that his was a reasonable charge, for says he, I -hire this establishment at the annual rent of thirty dollars, and this -I must charge to my customers; the year is almost out, and you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> are the -only available guest I have had; therefore I have charged the whole -amount to you. The gentleman laughed heartily; and considering it too -good a joke to be spoiled by any fault on his part, very pleasantly -handed him over the thirty dollars. He that travels much in the world, -may have occasion to fear the <i>rent day</i> is near at hand. This frank -explanation of the Virginia landlord has furnished an easy solution -to <i>some</i> tavern bills I have paid, that otherwise would have been -entirely inexplicable; and perhaps it may be equally useful to other -travellers.</p> - -<p>The Illinois river is a wide, sluggish stream; clear water, but -generally, hardly any perceivable current. It is a very shoal river, -having many sand bars.—Our boat did not draw more than two feet -of water, yet was continually running aground. I should think the -lead was thrown a quarter part of the time; and it used to amuse me, -sometimes, to hear the leadsman sing out "<i>two feet and a half</i>"—"<i>two -feet large</i>"—"<i>two feet</i>"—"<i>two feet scant</i>,"—and then aground; -and perhaps it would be half a day before we could get afloat again. -We were seven days going to St. Louis—rather slow travelling, and -somewhat vexatious; we thought, however, we might as well be merry as -sad, so we made the best of it. The captain had as much reason as any -of us to complain; for we took a cabin passage, and he had to board -us, however long the passage might be. All along down, the country is -rather<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> low, except some bluffs on the river—and where we found a -bluff on one side, there would be either a low marsh or a lake on the -other. Probably, there are twenty lakes below Peoria, on one side or -the other of the river. They were all long and narrow, and often had -an outlet into the river. They appeared more like former beds of the -stream, than any thing else.</p> - -<p>Pekin is twenty miles below Peoria, on a high bluff, the east side of -the river, having two taverns, thirty houses, and a large steam flour -mill. Sixty miles below this, on the same side of the river, is a large -village called Beardstown. Here are large flour mills, saw mill, &c. -all carried by steam.—Twenty miles below this, is a small village -called Naples.</p> - -<p>As we approached the Mississippi, we saw a good many stately bluffs -on the right hand bank, composed of limestone, and rising almost -perpendicular, from two to three hundred feet high. Some of them are -really grand and beautiful.</p> - -<p>At length, with no small degree of pleasure, we came in full view of -the majestic Mississippi river. The moment our boat entered the stream, -it felt its power, and started off with new life and vigor. It seemed -something like travelling, after leaving the sand bars and sluggish -current of the Illinois, to be hurried down the Mississippi at the rate -of eight or ten miles an hour.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p> - -<p>We soon reached Upper Alton, a large flourishing village of recent -origin. Here, are large steam flour mills, and large warehouses; and -in the centre of business is located the State Prison! There is no -accounting for taste; but it appeared to me rather singular, to see a -prison of convicts brought forward into the centre of a village to be -exhibited as its most prominent feature. The reason may have been, to -keep it constantly in <i>view</i> as a "terror to evil doers." This is the -last town we stopped at in Illinois—and on taking leave of the State, -I may be allowed to add a few words respecting it.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></p> - - -<p>Illinois is three hundred and fifty miles in length; one hundred and -eighty in breadth; and lies between thirty-seven and a half, and -forty-two and a half degrees north latitude. It contains fifty thousand -square miles—equal to forty millions of acres. It is divided into -fifty-five counties, and, probably, now contains more than two hundred -thousand inhabitants. All the streams, lakes and marshes are lined -with a fine growth of timber, sometimes a mile or two in width, and -sometimes merely a narrow strip. And as the southern part of the State -con<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>tains the most low, wet land, it has also the most timber. The -high land is generally prairie; but there are some exceptions to this. -I found quite a number of beautiful groves of timber on high land; -sometimes there were only scattering trees, called oak openings.</p> - -<p>It is probably as level as any State in the Union. At the northwest -of Shawneetown, there is a range of hills; and high bluffs are seen -along the banks of the Mississippi and Illinois rivers. In the mineral -regions at the northwest corner of the State, there are high hills, and -the land is somewhat broken; but the largest portion of the State is -composed of gently rolling prairies. These prairies are some of them -level and wet, but generally, they are high, dry and gently undulating. -They all have an exceedingly fertile soil, and are covered with tall -coarse grass and a great variety of beautiful flowers. The soil is a -rich, black loam, entirely inexhaustible, and produces abundant crops -without the aid of manure. In some of the old settled towns at the -lower part of the State, the same spot of ground has been cultivated -with Indian corn for a hundred years, and it now produces equally as -well as it did at first. In the time of strawberries, thousands of -acres are reddened with this delicious fruit. But this country, which -so delightfully strikes the eye, and has millions of acres that invite -the plough, wants timber for fuel, building and fences. It wants good -water in many places, and in too many in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>stances, the inhabitants want -health. These evils will probably all be remedied by the expedients of -cultivation. Bricks will be used for building; coal and peat will be -used for fuel; hedges and ditches will be made for fences; forests will -be made to grow on the prairies; and deep wells will be sunk for pure -water.</p> - -<p>There is a fine tract of rich level land extending along the eastern -shore of the Mississippi about eighty miles in length, and from three -to six miles in width. It commences near New-Alton, and terminates -a little below Kaskaskia. About half of its width bordering on the -river, is covered with a heavy growth of timber; the remainder is a -level prairie; and in the rear it is bordered by a stately bluff of -limestone. It is undoubtedly the richest land in the world. Settlements -have been made upon it to some extent, but it is not very healthy. It -is called the American Bottom. A bottom very similar to this, either on -one side or the other, marks the whole course of the Illinois river.</p> - -<p>More than five millions of acres have been surveyed, between the -Mississippi and Illinois rivers, and assigned by Congress for military -bounty lands. These lands embrace all the varieties of soil found in -the State—rich bottoms, swamps, prairies, timbered lands, high bluffs -and barrens. The northeast part of it is deemed the most pleasant and -healthy.</p> - -<p>On Rock river, the Kaskaskia, Wabash, Fox, Du Page, Macoupin and -Sangamon are large tracts of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> first rate land. And very similar to -this, are Grand prairie, Mound prairie, the Marine Settlement prairie, -and the one occupied by the New-England Christians.</p> - -<p>In the region of Sangamon river, nature has delighted to bring together -her happiest combinations of landscape; being beautifully variegated -with woodland and lawn, like sunshine and shade. It is generally -a level country; the prairies are not too extensive, and timber -abounds in sufficient quantity to support a dense population. In this -beautiful section of the new world, more than two hundred families, -from New-England, New-York and North Carolina, fixed their habitations -before it was surveyed. The land is exceedingly rich and easily -cultivated. It now constitutes a number of counties and is probably as -thickly settled as any part of the State. The Sangamon itself is a fine -boatable river, and has throughout its whole course, pure, transparent -water and a sandy bottom. It enters the Illinois river on the easterly -side, about one hundred and forty miles above its mouth.</p> - -<p>The Kaskaskia river has a long course in the central part of the State, -and the lands upon its borders are happily diversified with hill, vale, -prairie and forest. On its banks are Kaskaskia, the former seat of -government, and Vandalia, the present metropolis.</p> - -<p>The region of Rock and Fox rivers is a beautiful and healthy portion -of the State. The land is rich;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> the prairies are high, dry and gently -undulating and surrounded by excellent timber. The only faults are, -the prairies are too large for the quantity of timber, and there are -not a sufficient number of springs and small streams of water. But it -is a very pleasant and desirable portion of the country, and I believe -more emigrants are now directing their course thither, than to any -other portion of the State. It has one advantage over all the western -section of country, it is more healthy. I believe it is as healthy as -any portion of the United States.</p> - -<p>Although there are some bodies of sterile and broken land in the -State, yet as a whole, it contains a greater proportion of first -rate land than any other State in the Union; and probably as great -according to its extent as any country on the face of the globe. One -of the inconveniences attending this extensive rich country, is too -great a proportion of prairies. They cover more than half of the whole -State.—But the prevalence of coal and peat, and the ease with which -forest trees may be raised, will render even these extensive prairies -habitable.</p> - -<p>The original cause of these extensive prairies in all the western and -southern country is altogether a matter of conjecture. There is no -natural impediment in the soil to the growth of forest trees over the -whole extent of the country. It is certain that the fire is the cause -of continuing them in existence; for where the fire is kept out, trees -spring up in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> them, in a few years, and their growth is vigorous and -rapid.</p> - -<p>There are many reasons for the belief, that this western country was -once inhabited by a more civilized race of beings, than the present -hordes of wild Indians. Specimens of fine pottery and implements -of husbandry have been found in various parts of the country; and -brick foundations of a large city have lately been discovered in the -territory of Arkansas. These, together with the stately mounds and -remains of extensive fortifications, indicate that the country was once -inhabited by a race of men, who cultivated the soil for a subsistence, -and were well acquainted with the mechanic arts. From whence this race -of beings came, or whither they went, is alike unknown to us. Since -they left, the fire has made the cleared land much more extensive. -The fire, in very dry weather, and accompanied by a high wind, after -scouring over the prairies, takes to the woodland and destroys the -timber. Last fall, I saw hundreds of acres of woodland, so severely -burnt over, that I had no doubt the trees were generally killed. But in -some places, the forest gradually gains upon the prairie; and could the -fire be kept within proper bounds, the western country would soon have -an abundant supply of timber. But this cannot well be done. The Indian -sets the prairie afire, for the conveniency of hunting—the emigrant -sets it afire, so that the fresh grass may spring up for his cattle; -and so between<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> them both, they all get burnt over. And when once -kindled, the fire goes where the wind happens to drive.</p> - -<p>This State has great advantages for inland navigation by means of its -rivers. On the east, it is washed by the Michigan lake and Wabash -river; on the south, by the Ohio, and on the west, by the Mississippi. -The most important river within the State is the Illinois. It rises -near the south end of lake Michigan, runs in a southerly direction -about three hundred miles, and falls into the Mississippi, thirty -miles above St. Louis. Its two chief head branches are the Kankakee -and Oplane; this latter river runs within twelve miles of the lake, -and the space between is a low, wet prairie, so that it might easily -be connected with its waters. From the north, comes in the Du Page, -a larger stream than the Oplane. At Ottawa, eighty miles south of -Chicago, comes in Fox river. This is by far the largest tributary of -the Illinois, and at their junction is nearly equal to it in size. In -all descriptions of the State, mention is hardly made of Fox river; -but it is the next in size to the Illinois and Rock rivers, and is -one of the most beautiful streams in the whole State. It rises in the -territory west of lake Michigan, runs with a lively current, in a very -straight channel, from its source to its mouth. It heads in a lake, -and this accounts for the fact, that it is not, like other streams, -subject to freshets. It is generally fordable—the water is not more -than<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> about three feet deep, and the bottom is sand and pebbles. It is -a clear stream, abounding in fish, and withal, passes through the most -healthy part of the State.</p> - -<p>On the west side, nearly opposite Hennipen, comes in the Bureau river. -This is a good mill stream, and is composed of two branches, the one -called Great and the other Little Bureau; and these branches join -about five miles west of the Illinois. These branches, on the maps, -bear the names of Robertson's and James' river, but for what reason I -know not. On this river is a large settlement of northern people, and -many families from the State of New-Hampshire. Below this, the most -material tributaries are the Vermillion and Sangamon from the east, and -Spoon river from the west. Whatever others may say, I cannot call the -Illinois a pleasant stream. It has a marsh on one side or the other -from its mouth to its source, and is full of shoals and sand bars. I -passed down the river in a boat that drew less than two feet water, but -it often run aground. The worst bar is just below Beardstown. We had to -lighten the boat of its freight, water in the boiler, and passengers, -before we could pass this bar; and then, the hands had to jump into -the water and push the boat over. For about two hundred miles from -its mouth, it has many long and narrow lakes, of about the width of -the river itself; and probably they were formerly its channel. These -lakes generally have an outlet into the river,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> and these so much -resemble it, that a person not well acquainted with the stream, would -be puzzled to know what channel to take. The river occupies too much -ground for its quantity of water, and for about half of the year, it is -a difficult stream to navigate.</p> - -<p>Rock river rises beyond the northern limits of the State in the high -lands which separate the waters of the Mississippi from those of lake -Michigan. It is a large, beautiful stream, has a lively current, and -enters the Mississippi fifty miles below Galena. In the Mississippi -near its mouth, is a beautiful island, on which is situated fort -Armstrong.</p> - -<p>The other principal streams which enter the Mississippi are Fever -river, Parasaw, Kaskaskia, and Cahokia. No large streams enter the Ohio -or the Wabash, from this State; but some of them are navigable by keel -boats.</p> - -<p>In the region of Galena are the richest lead mines in the world. Copper -ore has also been discovered. The State abounds in mineral coal, which -is excellent for the grate. It burns freer than the Pennsylvania coal, -and emits much more light. Salt is made in large quantities at the salt -works, near Shawneetown.</p> - -<p>In the southern part of the State, cotton will grow in a favorable -year, and it is cultivated to some extent for family use. This -conclusively shows a milder climate than in New-England. In the -northern section, in the region of the vast prairies and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> lakes, the -wind sometimes blows strong and keen in the winter. It is not subject -to the strong chilly easterly winds so severely felt along the Atlantic -coast. During the year, the climate is undoubtedly more mild than that -of New-England. Apple, pear and peach trees grow vigorously and produce -abundantly. In the spring of the year the air becomes fragrant with the -blossoms of fruit trees and wild flowers.</p> - -<p>The soil and the climate are well suited to the production of wheat, -Indian corn, potatoes, and all garden vegetables. The crops are -abundant and of an excellent quality. The prairies every where abound -in wild grass, and afford an inexhaustible range for cattle, horses and -sheep. The grass is very nutricious, and it may with truth be said, -there is not a finer grazing country in the world.</p> - -<p>The most prevalent diseases are bilious fevers and the fever and ague. -These are caused by stagnant water and swamps. Removed from these, -good health is generally enjoyed. The consumption, the scourge of -New-England, is never known in all the western country. In some parts -of the lower section of the State, the inhabitants have been afflicted -with a disease called <i>milk sickness</i>. It, in the first place, affects -the cattle, and never occurs until the frosts of autumn. These frosts -kill the grass on the high prairies, and induce the cattle to go into -the low bottoms and woods, where vegetation remains green. It has -been discovered that the disease<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> is caused by the cattle's eating a -poisonous vine which grows luxuriantly in these bottoms. After eating -this vine, the animal appears weary and faint, travels with difficulty, -droops, and at length dies. If men or animals partake of the milk of -the cows, when they are thus disordered, they are affected in the same -manner. Men, however, sometimes recover. This disease is not confined -to Illinois. Near the rich bottom lands in Indiana and Missouri, -animals and men have been affected with it. In the northern half of the -State, I was informed, that not an instance of milk sickness had ever -been known.</p> - -<p>There are no <i>large</i> towns in Illinois, but quite a number of -flourishing villages. Danville, near the eastern line of the State, is -quite a flourishing town; and here the land office for the northern -section is kept. It is one hundred and thirty miles south of Chicago, -and it is supposed, that the office will shortly be removed to that -place. Springfield, situated on a branch of the Sangamon river, is -near the centre of the State, and is a large, flourishing village. -It is sixty miles south of Peoria, about thirty east of the Illinois -river; and it is highly probable that it will become, shortly, the seat -of the State government. The most important towns on the Mississippi -river, are Galena, Quincy, Alton, Edwardsville, and Kaskaskia; on the -Ohio river, are Trinity, America and Shawneetown; on the Wabash, are -Palmyra, Lawrenceville, Palestine, Ster<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>ling, &c. and in the interior, -besides those we have before mentioned, are Vandalia, the present seat -of the State government, Jacksonville, Maysville, Hillsborough, Salem, -and many other small villages; besides quite a number of <i>paper towns</i>, -that may in time have a "local habitation," in addition to their high -sounding names.</p> - -<p>Chicago is now the largest town in the State; and as it is favorably -situated for trade, it will probably continue to take the lead in time -to come.—Vandalia, the present seat of government, is pleasantly -situated on a high bank of the Kaskaskia river. Respectable buildings -for the accommodation of the government and the courts have been -erected. The village contains about a hundred houses; some of them, -built of brick and elegant.</p> - -<p>Kaskaskia is the oldest town in the State. It is pleasantly situated -on an extensive plain upon the bank of the river of the same name, and -eleven miles from its mouth. It was settled as early as Philadelphia, -by the French, and once contained seven thousand inhabitants; but now -it numbers not more than one thousand. This was formerly the seat -of government; it was removed to Edwardsville, then to Vandalia; -but it will probably be destined to take one more remove, either to -Springfield or Peoria.</p> - -<p>Galena, on the Mississippi, near the northwest corner of the State, -began to be settled in 1826. It is three hundred and fifty miles north -of St. Louis,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> and about one hundred and fifty west of Chicago. It now -contains between one and two thousand inhabitants, forty-two stores and -warehouses, and two hundred houses. It is the seat of justice for the -county, and has ten thousand inhabitants in its vicinity.</p> - -<p>The same provisions here for schools have been made as in the other -western States. In addition to one thirty-sixth part of all the -public lands, three per cent. on all the sales is added to the school -fund. It is in contemplation to establish an university. For this -purpose a sixth part of the school fund and two entire townships -have been appropriated. Rock Spring theological school, under the -superintendence of the Baptists, is a respectable academy in the Turkey -Hills' Settlement, seventeen miles east of St. Louis. It has fifty -students.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Primary schools are found in the villages and populous -neighborhoods; but in many places there is much need of them.</p> - -<p>The representatives and senators are chosen once in two years; the -governor and lieutenant governor in four years. The judiciary consists -of a supreme court and other county courts. All free white male -citizens, who have resided in the State six months, are entitled to the -right of suffrage; and they vote at elections <i>viva voce</i>.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> This school has recently been removed to Alton.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span></p></div> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></p> - - -<p>The prairies in the western country are all burnt over once a year, -either in spring or fall, but generally in the fall; and the fire is, -undoubtedly, the true cause of the continuance of them. In passing -through the State I saw many of them on fire; and in the night, it -was the grandest exhibition I ever saw. A mountain of flame, thirty -feet high, and of unknown length, moving onward, roaring like "many -waters"—in a gentle, stately movement, and unbroken front—then -impelled by a gust of wind, suddenly breaks itself to pieces, here and -there shooting ahead, whirling itself high in air—all becomes noise, -and strife, and uproar, and disorder. Well might Black Hawk look with -indifference on the puny exhibition of fireworks in New-York, when he -had so often seen fireworks displayed, on such a gigantic scale, on his -own native prairies.</p> - -<p>A prairie storm of fire is indeed terrific. Animals and men flee before -it, in vain. When impelled by a strong breeze, the wave of fire passes -on, with the swiftness of the wind; and the utmost speed of the horse -lingers behind. It then assumes a most appalling aspect; roars like a -distant cataract, and destroys every thing in its course. Man takes to -a tree, if he fortunately can find one; sets a back fire; or, as a last -resort, dashes through the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> flame to windward, and escapes with life; -although often severely scorched; but the deer and the wolf continue to -flee before it, and after a hot pursuit, are run down, overwhelmed and -destroyed.</p> - -<p>Much caution should be used, in travelling over an open prairie -country, in the fall of the year, when the grass is dry. Instances were -told me, of the entire destruction of the emigrant and his family by -fire, while on the road to their destined habitation.</p> - -<p>I had heard much of the <i>backwoodsmen</i>, and supposed, of course, I -should find many of them in Illinois; but after diligent search, I -found none that merited the appellation. The race has become extinct. -Who are the inhabitants of Illinois? A great portion of them, from -the north, recently settled there, and of course, possessing the same -hospitality, sobriety and education as the northern people. They went -out from us; but they are still of us. A person will find as good -society there, as here; only not so much of it. The upper house on Fox -river settlement, was occupied by an intelligent and refined family, -recently from Massachusetts.</p> - -<p>Meeting houses and school houses are rare, owing to the sparseness -of the inhabitants; but the country is settling rapidly, and these -deficiencies will soon be supplied. Indeed, so rapidly is the country -settling, that in writing this account of it, I sometimes feel like the -man who hurried home with his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> wife's bonnet, lest it should be out of -date, before I could get it finished.</p> - -<p>Emigrants, going to settle at the West, with their families, would -do well to take their beds, bedding, a moderate supply of culinary -utensils, the most essential of their farming tools, and a good supply -of clothing. These articles are all high there, and somewhat difficult -to be obtained. The more cumbersome of household furniture, such as -chairs, tables, bedsteads, &c. are not so essential; because their -place can be supplied by the ruder articles of domestic manufacture. In -the new settlements, most of the families had chairs or benches, tables -and bedsteads, made on the spot by the husbandmen.</p> - -<p>Provisions are cheap, but vary in price according to the demand. Corn, -at Beardstown, is worth twelve and a half cents a bushel; at Hennipen, -twenty-five cents; and on Fox river, fifty cents; and other articles in -proportion.</p> - -<p>When the settler arrives at his location, his first business is to -build a log house, which is soon done; then fence in a field, and -it is ready for the plough. The prairie breaks up hard at first, -requiring four yoke of oxen; but after the first breaking, a single -horse can plough it. A good crop is produced the first year; but better -in succeeding years. He had better hoe his Indian corn. It keeps -the ground clear of weeds, and increases the crop; but half of the -cornfields are not hoed at all.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p> - -<p>In the fall of the year, he must take especial care that his crops, -stacks of hay, fences, &c. are not burnt, in the general conflagration -of the prairies. To prevent this, as good a method as any is to plough -two or three furrows around his improvements, and at a distance of -about two rods plough as many more; and in a mild day, when the grass -is dry, burn over the space between. If he neglects this, he must keep -a good look out in a dry and windy day. If he sees a smoke to windward, -it will not do to wait until he can see the fire; he must summon all -hands, and set a back fire. With a strong breeze, fire will sometimes -run over the dry prairies faster than a horse. The inhabitants are -often too negligent in this particular. While I was there, a number of -stacks of hay and grain, and two or three houses were burnt, from the -mere negligence of their owners.</p> - -<p>But I must bid adieu to the beautiful State of Illinois. To the -practical husbandman, and to the enthusiastic admirer of the beauties -of nature, it is alike attractive; and in which, they both will find -ample scope for the exercise of the powers of body and of mind.</p> - -<p>After two or three hours stay at Alton, we started down the stream; -and in seven miles, came to the mouth of the turbid Missouri. Here, -two mighty rivers join their forces, and rolling on with irresistible -power, for thirteen hundred miles, mingle with the waters of the ocean. -The great Mis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>souri, after traversing a vast extent of country, in -various directions, here bears directly down upon the Mississippi; but -the latter, like a coy maiden, shrinks back, recoils at his approach, -and seems to decline the rude embrace; and they travel on together for -forty miles, before the Missouri can unite its muddy waters with those -of the clear and transparent Mississippi. Here, the Missouri, having -at length gained the complete mastery, holds throughout its undisputed -sway; and gives its own peculiar complexion to the united stream.</p> - -<p>The appearance is, indeed, quite singular; to see the two rivers -passing along, side by side, in the same channel, such a long distance, -without mingling their waters; and the line, between the muddy and -clear water, is so well defined and distinctly marked, that it can -readily be seen from the shore.</p> - -<p>On the western bank of the river, seventeen miles below the mouth of -the Missouri, is the town of <span class="smcap">St. Louis</span>. The view was fine and -imposing, as we approached it by water; and it is the most pleasantly -situated of any town on the banks of the Mississippi. It stands on an -elevated plain, which gradually rises from the water, to its western -extremity. Back of it, there is a level and extensive prairie, and -above the village, are a number of stately Indian mounds. St. Louis is -the most important town in all the western country; and there is not -a town in the world, such a distance from the sea, that in commercial -advantages can at all compare<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> with it. When we consider its situation, -near the junction of two mighty rivers, the one navigable twenty-five -hundred miles, the other one thousand, and the large navigable branches -of each, and see that this place must be the centre of trade for the -whole, it requires not the gift of prophecy to designate this spot, -as the site of the greatest city of the West. It is now a large town, -chiefly built of brick; has a brisk trade; and probably contains seven -or eight thousand inhabitants. There was a time, when the only craft -on the river was keel boats, and the transportation of goods, arduous -and expensive. Then, this place struggled slowly into existence, and -sometimes remained stationary, or rather declined; but the introduction -of steamboats started it into newness of life and vigor. Its trade is -now daily extending itself, and the town is continually increasing -in population and buildings. A dozen steamboats were lying at the -landing—some bound high up on the rivers; others, to Pittsburgh and -New-Orleans. This seems to be a sort of "half way house," between the -upper and lower country; being a place of general deposit for goods, -destined either way. And St. Louis will never have to contend with a -rival; for there is no other suitable spot near the junction of the two -rivers, to locate a city. She will, therefore, continue to increase in -size, wealth and beauty, and remain in all time to come, the undisputed -"Queen of the West."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span></p> - -<p>There is a land office kept at St. Louis; and plenty of government -land to be obtained for a dollar and a quarter an acre. It is chiefly -settled by Americans; but French settlers are found, and in St. Louis -there are a large number. Considerable trade in peltries is carried on -with the Indians, who come to the principal towns and exchange their -skins for goods. They are continually seen in the streets of St. Louis.</p> - -<p>St. Louis has a theatre, and we attended it.—Quite a decent edifice, a -tolerable play, and a full and fashionable audience. I could perceive -no essential difference between this assembly and those of Boston -or New-York. Good society is found here. The streets at night were -quiet; or only disturbed by the sound of the violin on board the flat -boats, or the merry boatman's song. The sky was serene, the air mild, -and we had many a pleasant walk through the town and its environs. -Indeed, there is a peculiar balmy softness in the air, grateful to -the feelings, not to be found in our northern climate. St. Louis is -a pleasant place; and were it not for the stacks of bar lead on the -shore, and some slight peculiarities in the customs of its inhabitants, -it could hardly be distinguished from an eastern city. A steam ferry -boat plies between this place and the opposite shore, and affords a -large profit to its owner.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></p> - - -<p>Missouri contains sixty thousand square miles, being two hundred and -seventy miles in length and two hundred and twenty in breadth. It lies -on the west side of the Mississippi river, between thirty-six and forty -degrees north latitude. It now contains, probably, one hundred and -fifty thousand inhabitants, of whom thirty thousand are slaves.</p> - -<p>A large tract of this State, commencing at its south end, extending -up the Mississippi river above the mouth of the Ohio, and running -into the interior, possesses rich alluvial soil, but is low, swampy, -full of lakes, and much of it, subject to overflow. Beyond this to -the west, the country is broken and hilly; sometimes covered with a -small species of oak, and sometimes naked sandy hills and plains.—The -whole southerly half of the State, offers but small inducements to -the farmer. Where the soil is rich, it is too low and unhealthy; -where it is high, dry and healthy, it is too barren and sterile to be -cultivated. The best portion of the State lies between the Missouri -and Mississippi rivers. This section is the most settled of any part -of the State. Its surface is delightfully variegated and rolling, and -possesses large tracts of rich alluvial and high prairies. The soil -contains a greater proportion of sand, than that of the other western -States; so that it is easily cultivated, and is never disagreeably<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> -muddy. There are spots where we find the stiff clayey soil of Ohio -and New-York; but they are not extensive. No part of the globe, in a -state of nature, can so easily be travelled over in carriages as this. -Even in spring, the roads cannot be called muddy or difficult to pass. -There are two extensive tracts of heavily timbered upland, similar -to those of Ohio and Kentucky—the one is called the Bellevue, the -other the Boone's Lick Settlement. The surface rolls gently and almost -imperceptibly. In this region are many springs of good water, and it is -said to be healthy.</p> - -<p>The Mississippi is skirted with a prairie, commencing ten miles above -the mouth of the Missouri, for the distance of seventy miles. It is -about five miles in width, and possesses an excellent soil.</p> - -<p>There are no prairies of any considerable size on the borders of the -Missouri, within the limits of the State; but its banks are generally -covered with a beautiful growth of tall, straight forest trees. The -bottom land on this river is about four miles in width, is sufficiently -mixed with sand to prevent its being muddy, and is not subject to be -overflowed. There are no bayous, ponds or marshes on the margin of the -Missouri. The bottoms are now considerably settled for four hundred -miles above its mouth. Charaton, over two hundred miles up the river, -is the highest compact settlement. But the largest and most populous -settlement in the State is Boone's Lick, in Franklin county. This is -one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> hundred and eighty miles above the mouth of the river. Scattered -settlements are, however, found along the river banks for six hundred -miles, to the Council Bluffs. Above the Platte, which is the largest -tributary of the Missouri, the prairies come quite in to the banks of -the river, and extend on either hand, farther than can be measured by -the eye. This is the general complexion of the river banks until you -reach the Rocky mountains.</p> - -<p>As far as the limits of this State extend, the river is capable of -supporting a dense population for a considerable distance from its -banks. Above these limits, it is generally too destitute of wood and -water to become habitable by any people, except hunters and shepherds. -All the tributaries of the Missouri are generally copies of the parent -stream, and one general remark will apply to the whole. They all have -narrow margins of excellent bottom land; and as the country recedes -from these, it becomes more and more sandy, barren and destitute of -water, until it resembles the deserts of Arabia.</p> - -<p>Wheat and corn are generally the chief productions, and the soil -is excellent for both. The whole western country is remarkable for -withstanding the severest droughts. A crop has never been known to -fail in the driest seasons. From twenty-five to thirty bushels to the -acre is an average crop of wheat, and from fifty to seventy-five, -of corn.—The good lands in Missouri produce corn in as great -perfection as in any part of the world. It is warm,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> loamy land, and -so mellow that it is easily cultivated. Even where the sand appears -to predominate, great crops are produced. The soil, in the vicinity -of the Missouri, is more pliant, and less inclined to be muddy, than -that on the banks of the Mississippi. Rye, barley, oats, flax, hemp, -tobacco, melons, pumpkins, squashes and all garden vegetables flourish -remarkably well. Peaches, pears, plums, cherries, &c. grow to great -perfection. The land seems well adapted to the use of plaster, and this -is found of excellent quality, in inexhaustible quantities, on the -banks of the Missouri.</p> - -<p>Beyond all countries, this is the land of blossoms. Every prairie is an -immense flower garden. In the spring, their prevailing tint is that of -the peach blossom—in summer, of a deeper red—then a yellow—and in -autumn, a brilliant golden hue.</p> - -<p>The natural productions of the soil are abundant. The red and yellow -prairie plum, crab apples, pawpaws, persimons, peccans, hazelnuts and -walnuts are generally found in perfection and abundance. Wild hops -cover whole prairies; and two or three species of grapes are found in -various parts of the State. The heats of summer and dryness of the -atmosphere render this suitable for the cultivation of the vine. Silk -might also be raised in great abundance, as the mulberry tree is every -where found among the trees of the forest. Near New-Madrid, cotton is -cultivated.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p> - -<p>Bears, wolves and panthers are found here. The prairie wolf is the -most numerous and mischievous. Deer, as the Indians retire, grow more -plenty, and are frequently seen in flocks feeding near the herds of -cattle. There is a species of mole found here, and indeed in all the -western and southern country, called gopher. These animals live in -communities, and build small eminences of a circular form and about a -foot high. They are mischievous in potatoe fields and gardens.</p> - -<p>Rattlesnakes, copper heads, and ground vipers are found in the -unsettled regions; especially, near flint knobs and ledgy hills. They -are not so common as in more timbered regions. It is probable that the -burning of the prairie destroys great numbers of them. The waters are -covered with ducks, geese, swans, brants, pelicans, cranes and many -other smaller birds. The prairie hen and turtle dove are numerous.</p> - -<p>The domestic animals are the same as in other States. This State and -Illinois have decided natural advantages for the rearing of cattle, -horses, hogs and sheep.</p> - -<p>A distinguishing feature in the climate, is in the dryness and purity -of the atmosphere. The average number of cloudy days in a year is not -more than fifty, and not more than half that number are rainy. The -quantity of rain is not more than eighteen inches. The sky in summer -and autumn is generally cloudless. There are no northeast continued<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> -rains as in the Atlantic States. The longest storms are from the -southwest.</p> - -<p>The usual diseases are intermittent and bilious fevers. Sometimes -pleurisy and lung fevers prevail in winter. Pulmonic complaints, -attended with cough, are seldom; and consumption, that scourge of the -East, is unknown.</p> - -<p>The summers are quite warm, and sometimes oppressive; but generally, -a refreshing breeze prevails. The winters are sometimes cold, and the -wind blows sharp and keen. The Missouri is frozen sufficiently strong -to bear loaded teams. But days are found even in January, when it is -agreeable to sit at an open window. A few inches of snow occasionally -fall, but there is hardly any good sleighing.</p> - -<p>This State is known to be rich in minerals, although a large portion -remains yet unexplored. Lead has been found in abundance. The principal -"diggings" are included in a district fifteen miles by thirty in -extent; the centre of which is sixty miles southwest from St. Louis, -and about half that distance from Herculaneum, on the Mississippi. The -earth is of a reddish yellow, and the ore is found embedded in rock and -hard gravel. Fifty diggings are now occupied, from which three millions -of pounds of lead are annually sent to market. It is transported from -the mines in wagons, either to Herculaneum or St. Genevieve, and from -thence by water to New-Orleans. Stone coal abounds, especially in the -region of St. Louis and St. Charles.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> Plaster, pipe clay, manganese, -zinc, antimony, red and white chalk, ochres, flint, common salt, -nitre, plumbago, porphyry, jasper, porcelain clay, iron, marble and -the blue limestone of an excellent quality for lime, have already been -discovered in this State. Iron, lead, plaster and coal are known to -exist in inexhaustible quantities.</p> - -<p>St. Louis is much the largest town in the State. It is not only the -most pleasantly situated, but has the most favorable location for trade -of any town on the Mississippi above New-Orleans. It has, however, been -sufficiently described.</p> - -<p>St. Genevieve is situated about a mile west of the Mississippi on the -upper extremity of a beautiful prairie. It is principally settled by -the French and contains about fifteen hundred inhabitants. It is an old -town, and has not increased for the last thirty years.</p> - -<p>Jackson, the seat of justice for Cape Girardeau county, is twelve miles -west of the Mississippi, contains one hundred houses, some of them -built of brick and handsome.</p> - -<p>The town of Cape Girardeau is situated on a high bluff of the -Mississippi, fifty miles above the mouth of the Ohio. It has a fine -harbor for boats, and commands an extensive view of the river above and -below. It exhibits marks of decay.</p> - -<p>Potosi is the county town of Washington. It is situated in the centre -of the mining district, in a pleasant valley sixty-five miles southwest -from St.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> Louis. St Michael is an old French town among the mines. -There are some other small villages in the vicinity of the mining -district.</p> - -<p>Herculaneum is situated among the high bluffs of the river, thirty -miles below St. Louis. There are a number of shot towers in its -vicinity. New-Madrid is fifty miles below the mouth of the Ohio. -Carondolet is a small French village six miles below St. Louis; and -four miles below this, is the garrison, called Jefferson Barracks. -The public buildings are extensive, and a large number of soldiers -are generally stationed here. There are no large villages on the -Mississippi above the mouth of the Missouri. Palmyra is probably as -large as any. The others are Louisianaville, Troy and Petersburg.</p> - -<p>There are a number of fine villages on the banks of the Missouri; the -largest of which is St. Charles, twenty miles from the mouth, and just -the same distance from St. Louis by land. It is situated on a high -bank of solid limestone, has one street of good brick houses; and in -its rear, an extensive elevated prairie. It contains a protestant -and a catholic church, was once the seat of government, and numbers -twelve hundred inhabitants; a third of whom are French. It has finely -cultivated farms in its neighborhood, and has as interesting scenery as -any village in the western country.</p> - -<p>Jefferson City is the present seat of government, but being thought -to be an unfavorable location has not improved as was expected. It is -situated on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> the south bank of the Missouri, nine miles above the mouth -of the Osage river, and one hundred and fifty-four by water from St. -Louis. Fifty miles above this, is the town of Franklin. It is situated -on the north bank of the river, contains two hundred houses and one -thousand inhabitants. It is surrounded by the largest body of rich -land in the State; and is the centre of fine farms and rich farmers. -Boonville is on the opposite bank of the river and was originally -settled by Col. Boone, the patriarch of Kentucky. Bluffton, two hundred -and twenty-nine miles by water from St. Louis, is the last village -within the limits of this State.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></p> - - -<p>When we were ready to start, not finding a steamboat bound to -New-Orleans, which would go under a day or two, we took passage, as far -as the mouth of the Ohio, in one bound to Pittsburgh.</p> - -<p>On the eastern side of the river, to the mouth of the Ohio, it is a -level country, (with only one exception) called the "American Bottom," -and is as fine, rich land as earth affords; but is somewhat subject -to overflow, and is supposed not to be very healthy. Settlements are, -however, making upon it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> On the west side we found a number of stately -bluffs of limestone, rising from the water perpendicular two or three -hundred feet.</p> - -<p>I was much amused to see the "screw auger grist mills" on the bank of -the river. A place is selected where the current sets strong along the -shore; and a log seventy feet long, three or four feet in diameter, -having a board float a foot in width from stem to stern, in a spiral -form, like a coarse threaded screw, is thrown into the river. To the -upper end of the log, by an universal joint, is attached a cable, and -the other end, extended in a diagonal direction to a shaft in the mill -on the bank. The log wheel floats in the water parallel with the shore, -about a third of it above the surface; is held in its position by -sticks at each end extending to the bank, and the cable itself prevents -its going down stream. The current of the river turns the wheel, and -the mill clatters merrily on the bank.</p> - -<p>These high banks are not altogether without their use. They furnish -elegant sites for shot towers; and probably half a dozen of them are -thus occupied.</p> - -<p>The greatest natural curiosity on the river, is what is called -the "Towers." High pillars of limestone are seen on both sides of -the stream, and one solid rock rises almost in the middle of the -river, thirty feet high. Some of the most striking curiosities have -particular, if not appropriate names given<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> them; such as "the grand -tower," "the devil's candlestick," "the devil's bake-oven," &c.</p> - -<p>The navigation of the Mississippi in steamboats has its dangers. Snags -and sawyers are scattered along down the river; and it requires great -attention in the pilot, to avoid them. But there are other dangers -beside this. As we came along down, we passed a steamboat that had -burst her boiler; blown the upper part of it to pieces and killed a -number of persons; and further down the Mississippi, the "Boonslick" -run into the "Missouri Belle," sunk her in eighty feet of water, and -drowned a number of passengers.</p> - -<p>As we came down opposite the mouth of the Ohio, we had our courage -put to the test. It was about twilight, and cloudy; but objects could -well be discerned for some distance. We saw a steamboat coming up the -river, and apparently intending to pass us on the left hand. When -within a short distance of us, the boat "took a sheer," stood on the -other tack, to pass us on the right. Our captain sung out, "the boat is -coming right into us; back the engine." Then was a scene of confusion -and dismay on board; "and the boldest held his breath for a time." If -the boats came in contact, one or both would undoubtedly sink; and it -appeared unavoidable. I ran up on the upper deck, and stood beside the -flag staff, to wait the event. It was soon decided. By backing our boat -and putting the steam on the other, we passed without striking<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> at the -distance of a few feet only. This was, indeed, a fortunate escape.</p> - -<p>I thought the pilot of the other boat must have been at fault; but the -captain told me he was not at all. A cross current from the Ohio struck -the bow of his boat, and veered her round in spite of the helm; and -then, the only chance was to go ahead with all the speed he could.</p> - -<p>It now became quite dark, and in attempting to go across into the Ohio -channel, the boat run aground on a sand bar. All the boat hands were -employed till past midnight to get her off, but without success. They -all turned in, to rest and wait till daylight.</p> - -<p>When the captain arose in the morning, he found the boat adrift. On -examination, it appeared the force of the current alone had washed -away the sand bar, and drove the boat across from the Mississippi side -into the Ohio channel. He put the steam on, and we run to the landing -place on the Illinois side, and a short distance up the river. Here we -found half a dozen steamboats, exchanging with each other goods and -passengers.</p> - -<p>The mouth of the Ohio is a general stopping place for all boats running -up and down either river; and would be a fine situation for a town, if -the land were suitable to build upon. Although the shore appeared to be -thirty feet above the then low stage of water, yet in a freshet, the -whole is laid eight or ten feet under water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p> - -<p>We found here a large tavern house and grocery; both stuck up on -stilts; the latter, standing nearest the bank, had a breakwater, to -keep it from being carried away by the flood and floating timber. We -stopped an hour or more; went to the tavern, and found dissipation in -a flourishing condition. Those acquainted with the place, told us it -was as much as a man's life was worth, to stay there. Rioting, robbing, -gambling and fighting were the general order of things, day after day, -and night after night. For the honor of the human race, I hope this -account is exaggerated. But I must confess, appearances are against it.</p> - -<p>Here, we left our boat, and took passage on board another, bound to -New-Orleans. These Mississippi steamboats are of gigantic size, and -look like a floating castle—I was about to say the ancient ark; and -although it might fall some short of that ancient vessel, in quantity -and quality of lading, yet when its size and great variety of cargo -are taken into consideration, the comparison might not be deemed a bad -one. In one particular, it would be exact. We had aboard a number of -"<i>creeping things</i>."</p> - -<p>Our boat was laden with barrels of pork, kegs of lard, hogsheads of -hams, bags of corn, bars of lead, bales of cotton, coops of chickens, -horses, men, women, children, and negro slaves; men of gentlemanly -deportment and of good character; and gamblers, horse-jockeys, and -negro dealers; and women, of good fame, ill fame, and no particular<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> -fame at all. This was, surely, variety enough for one boat.</p> - -<p>The untravelled man might obtain some new ideas of the world, by taking -a trip in a Mississippi steamboat. It seemed like a world in miniature. -Singing, fiddling, dancing, card playing, gambling, and story telling, -were among the pastimes of the passage. Mere pastimes, to relieve the -tedium of the voyage, for those who have no other resources at command, -may not be the subject of censure; but there were some practices on -board this boat, which ought not to be thus lightly passed over.</p> - -<p>One woman, in the garb and mien of a lady, and whose person still -wore the bloom of youth, but whose conduct was far from being -unexceptionable, appeared, sometimes, pensive and sad. She appeared as -though she had seen other and better days; and that her present course -of life was not, even to herself, entirely satisfactory. I had some -curiosity to learn something of her history, and one day in a talkative -mood, she gave me the outlines of it.</p> - -<p>She said, she was the daughter of rich parents in the State of -Delaware. Her father died while she was quite young; leaving her with -an ample fortune, and in the care of an indulgent mother. She had -always been kept at school; learned music, drawing and dancing; read -novels; attended parties, and was caressed and flattered. In short, she -was a giddy girl, and knew nothing of the world.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p> - -<p>At this critical time of life, she was flattered by a young man of -prepossessing appearance, but of worthless character, who offered her -marriage. She knew her mother would, at her tender years, object to the -match; and therefore, at the early age of fifteen, she clandestinely -jumped out of the window of her boarding house in the night, and was -married!</p> - -<p>This was a sore affliction to her mother; and although she herself -was not entirely discarded, her husband was never permitted to enter -the parental mansion. Her husband obtained her fortune, spent it "in -riotous living," and after awhile, left her with two small children, -and fled to Cincinnati. She, in her distress, applied to her mother; -she would receive her, but not her children. She then took her -children, and went after her husband. She found him; but they lived but -a short time together, before he abused her in such a manner, she was -obliged to quit him; and not much caring whither she went, she took -passage on board a boat for St. Louis. At this place she supported -herself and children as long as she could, by selling her trinkets -and superfluous clothing, and then was left destitute. She had never -been accustomed to labor; her hands were as delicate as those of a -child—she "could not work, and to beg she was ashamed." As a last -resort, (could a virtuous woman think so?) she became an inmate of a -house not of the <i>strictest morals</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p> - -<p>After staying there awhile, she became acquainted with some of the -hands of the boat, who persuaded her to try her fortune at the city -of New-Orleans. She was now only about twenty! She was miserable, and -expected to be so. Vice carried with it its own punishment. I tried to -induce her to return to her mother; but in vain. Her conduct had been -such, she was ashamed to return. A sad termination this, to the bright -hopes, and fond anticipations of an indulgent mother. So true it is, -that one improvident step in life, often leads to destruction.</p> - -<p>Another female who figured somewhat conspicuously, was one who came on -board at the mouth of the Ohio from the steamboat Nile; and from that -circumstance, was called by the passengers the "Queen of the Nile." -She was from the State of Ohio, possessed a fine person, and in her -days of innocence, must have been handsome and fascinating. She was the -daughter of respectable parents, and commenced life with high hopes -and brilliant expectations; but she had been "disappointed in love." -Abandoned by her "cruel spoiler," she gave herself up to dissipation -and crime. The bloom of her cheeks began to fade, and the sad aspect, -sometimes so conspicuously depicted in her countenance, plainly -indicated a mind ill at ease and a heart painfully sad. She travelled -without object, other than to revel in dissipation and kill time. But -her course of life had made serious inroads upon her health,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> and it -was apparent enough that her days must be "evil and few." I sometimes -observed her sitting on the guard of the boat for hours all alone, -gazing in sadness at the peaceful forest and cottages as they passed -in rapid review before her, the tears fast flowing from her eyes, and -her face exhibiting such anguish as may not be expressed by words. She -kept on in the boat to New-Orleans, and I afterwards was informed by -a gentleman who was a fellow passenger, that she became mistress to a -Frenchman in that city. How mistaken mankind are! Crime never did cure -the heart ache, or dissipation ever dispel sorrow.</p> - -<p>The steamboats are constructed like a long two story house, having -large windows and green blinds. The hold is to stow away their heavy -freight; on the first deck, is the gentlemen's cabin, and the dining -room, where all the cabin passengers take their meals; in the centre, -is the engine, cook room, &c.—and forward, are the boilers and wood. -On the next deck, is the ladies' cabin aft, and forward is the place -for deck passengers, having berths but no bedding. Over this, is what -is called the "hurricane deck."</p> - -<p>A cabin passage from St. Louis to New-Orleans, is twenty-five dollars; -and a deck passage seven dollars—the passenger finding his own bedding -and meals. Cooking stoves are provided, so that families often lay in -their own provisions and cook their own meals.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p> - -<p>Boats burn a good deal of wood—ours consumed a cord an hour; and it -is no small job to bring the wood aboard from the slippery banks of -the Mississippi. As an inducement to the deck passengers to help wood -the boat, two dollars are deducted to those who agree to wood; so in -that case they only pay five dollars. Thirty or forty of our passengers -agreed to wood, but the mate and clerk had much difficulty to make them -fulfil their engagements.</p> - -<p>It was sometimes really laughable, to see the expedients resorted to, -to get rid of wooding; especially when the boat rounded to, by the side -of a wood-pile in the night. The clerk would sing out, "Wood-pile, -wood-pile, where are the wooders?" But they, like some characters in -high places, were more inclined to "dodge the question," than to walk -up manfully and perform their duty. Some feigned themselves sick; some -hid under the baggage, or beneath the berths; others went on shore and -skulked in the woods, until the wooding was over. So that with all -their coaxing and driving, they would not be able to bring to the work -more than half of the wood hands.</p> - -<p>One fracas was ludicrous, although I could not but regret the result. -It is well known, that the inhabitants of the several western States -are called by certain <i>nicknames</i>. Those of Michigan are called -<i>wolverines</i>; of Indiana, <i>hooshers</i>; of Illinois, <i>suckers</i>; of -Ohio, <i>buckeyes</i>; of Kentucky, <i>corn-crackers</i>; of Missouri, <i>pukes</i>, -&c. To call a person by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> his right nickname, is always taken in -good part, and gives no offence; but nothing is more offensive than -to mis-nickname—that is, were you to call a hoosher a wolverine, -his blood would be up in a moment, and he would immediately show -fight.—Now it so happened that the mate, who was a regular built -buckeye, had a dispute with a wood hand, who was about half drunk, -and refused to wood. The mate stood on the lower deck, and he on -the deck above; and in the course of the wrangle, he had called him -some terrible hard names, which he bore with becoming fortitude and -forbearance. At length, the wood hand called him a "d—d old puke!" -This was too much—unendurable. He fired in a moment—rushed up and -floored him in a twinkling—dragged him down by his collar, thrust him -ashore, and left him in the woods.</p> - -<p>But the steamboat, the steamboat! For noise and confusion, give me the -Mississippi steamboat. They all have powerful high-pressure engines; -the escape pipe is large, and at every breath they make a tremendous -noise. They "talk big," and swiftly dash through the water. It is -indeed a grand display, to see the steamboats pass. In "a voice of -thunder" they come—the wheels lash the water—and the prows cut the -stream—and the waves roll in violent commotion for hundreds of yards -behind them. And then, the noise of the engine, and hurry and bustle of -the passengers within:—an excellent place to cure one of the ennui.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p> - -<p>On board our boat, we had a number of very intelligent and agreeable -gentlemen—Kentuckians, Tennesseans, Mississippians, &c. I wish -these western people would be a little more exact in speaking the -English language. Some inaccuracies I observed; and if this book ever -reaches them, they will not be offended, but obliged to me for these -suggestions. In the first place, they use the word <i>which</i> instead -of <i>what</i>. Ask a question, and if they do not understand you, they -reply "<i>which?</i>"—Another phrase, "I have <i>saw</i>," instead of "I have -<i>seen</i>," is often used. Then there is "a right smart chance," applied -to almost every thing; and "tote in the plunder," instead of "bring in -the baggage." But the word <i>heap</i> has too much by far <i>heaped</i> upon -its shoulders. "A <i>heap</i> better," "a <i>heap</i> easier," and "a <i>heap</i> of -ladies," are phrases often heard. I may be a little sensitive, but the -word <i>heap</i> is very disagreeable, and I wish it was expunged from the -English vocabulary. All these expressions are not used by many literary -men in this country, but they are indeed, quite too common.</p> - -<p>They have some peculiarities in the calling of money. A New-England -<i>ninepence</i> is called <i>a bit</i>; and the four-pence-half-penny bears -the name of <i>pickaroon</i>. In travelling from New-Hampshire to Virginia -some years ago, I was somewhat amused at the different names given -to the same piece of money. My four-pence-half-penny became at -New-York a <i>sixpence</i>, at Philadelphia a <i>fip</i>, and at Vir<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>ginia it -became a four-pence-half-penny again. But all these singularities and -inconveniences will soon be done away, and money will universally bear -its legal title, dollars and cents.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></p> - - -<p>There is an independent frankness in these western people that I -admire. It is a kind of individuality of character—every one appears -to act out himself, without reference to others. At the north, people -are too apt to follow the multitude, or a particular file leader; -and by them, shape their opinions and actions. In order to tell -whether they will do a particular act, they must look about them, and -ascertain what others will say of it. The politician must conform to -the usages of his party, whatever they may be. He must think as they -think, and act as they act, whether it be agreeable to the dictates -of his own conscience or not. The pious lady must be exactly in the -fashion—conform to certain leaders—be charitable by rule—and kind, -in the most approved mode. If any one has the boldness to take an -independent course, in fashion, politics or religion, he is looked upon -with suspicion, as a dangerous innovator, and must not be tolerated. -The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> dogs of war are let loose upon him, and he is hunted down for -entertaining an opinion of his own. In this manner, individual -character becomes swallowed up and lost in that of the multitude.</p> - -<p>But in this region, nature is true to herself. The useless and -cumbersome shackles of custom and party are thrown aside with -disdain; and the individual walks forth in his own native freedom and -independence. He does not shape his course by what his neighbors may -say, do or think; but acts according to the dictates of his own heart, -and from his own opinion of right and wrong. He is charitable, kind -and hospitable—not in a grudging, supercilious manner; or in a way -calculated to display himself; but with such an air of open-hearted -welcome, as to make the recipient feel at ease, and doubles the value -of the kindness bestowed. How can man be niggardly and mean, among the -teeming prairies and stately forests of the West, where nature herself, -by showering down her blessings with a bountiful hand, teaches him also -to be liberal!</p> - -<p>And I have often to myself reversed the question and asked, how can -northern people be other than inhospitable and niggardly, living in -such a crabbed climate, and on such a barren soil. They cannot, in -general, afford to be liberal; and were it otherwise, the severe labor -and economy—the continual dealing in small things—the constant rack -of brains, to find some method to turn a penny to advantage—that must -be gone through with, to gain a large estate,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> seem to drive out of the -head of the possessor all notions of liberality, and tend to steel the -heart against noble acts of kindness. That which costs much, and is -rarely obtained, is highly valued, and not lightly parted with. We are -not well educated in the school of hospitality. We awkwardly perform -its teachings—seldom with gracefulness and a hearty welcome.</p> - -<p>Among our passengers, there were twenty-three negro slaves, men and -women; bought in Kentucky by negro speculators, to be transported to -Natchez, where the market is high, to be sold. One of them was taken -with the cholera, and in twelve hours died. He was put into a rough -box, and when we stopped to wood, buried on shore. This was the only -case we had, and the only one I ever witnessed. It is a dreadful -disease; but has been too often professionally described, for me to -attempt it.</p> - -<p>These negroes are singular beings. Although one of their number had -died; and although they were slaves, and going to be sold to, they -knew not whom, or what hardships they might be made to endure, yet -they were always merry—talking, laughing, singing, dancing, in one -continued round. At every place we stopped, they would run on shore, -and while one sung, clapped his hands, and beat time with his foot, -the others would foot it merrily on the smooth ground. Knowing their -destination, their thoughtless gayety sometimes produced disagreeable -sensations. There are some situations,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> however, where ignorance and -thoughtlessness are a blessing. They were not confined at all, but -appeared to be kindly treated, and to enjoy every liberty they might, -consistent with their situation.</p> - -<p>The banks of the Mississippi look high enough at low water; probably -thirty feet; presenting a raw edge next the stream, and generally -covered with a dense forest of lofty trees; yet at high water, they are -generally overflowed, except at the high bluffs. The most prominent of -these, are what are called the Iron Banks, Chickasaw Bluffs, Walnut -Hills, and the site of the city of Natchez—all these are on the east -side of the river. I do not remember of seeing a single high bluff on -the west side, below the mouth of the Ohio. There are occasionally -small elevations over which the river does not flow; and villages -erected on them. But every few miles without regard to overflows, log -houses are erected in the wilderness, inhabited by woodcutters; and -their only employment seems to be, to supply the steamboats with wood. -Although wood is cheap, being generally $1,50 a cord, above the mouth -of the Ohio, and from there to Natchez $2,00, yet the demand is so -great, and the forest so near, they make quite a lucrative business of -it.</p> - -<p>The river is very crooked, sometimes going five miles to gain one; has -many islands, and some places, full of snags. There are two or three -snag boats employed on the river, and when they get them chiefly out, -the Missouri, which seems to take upon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> itself the chief regulation -of the stream, brings down at high water a reinforcement equal to the -first supply; so that to keep the river clear of snags, is like the -labor of Sisyphus, who was doomed to roll a stone up a hill, and the -moment he got it near the top, it would roll down again.</p> - -<p>The introduction of steamboats on the western waters, has -revolutionized the country. They have opened the deep recesses of the -West, to the free access of mankind, and let in the light of day upon -them. The half-horse and half-alligator race are no longer to be found; -but the inhabitants of this part of creation look, and talk, and act, -and live—very much like human beings. The refinements, elegancies and -luxuries of life are not so generally found here, as in the Atlantic -States; but all the necessaries are every where abundant.</p> - -<p>In Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, and all along the river Mississippi, I -found the inhabitants civil and kind; and in no one instance did I ask -for a meal of victuals in vain. It might, sometimes, be a homely one, -and once I recollect, it consisted of meat and bread; but those who -have such a mawkish sensibility that they cannot relish the simple fare -of the forrester, ought never to set a foot on the western world.</p> - -<p>The flat boats are still in use on the river. We passed hundreds of -them; some loaded with live stock, others with corn, cotton, &c. They -have hardly any resemblance of a boat. They are sixty<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> or seventy feet -long, ten wide, having corner posts and a square form like a house, and -a flat roof. The current floats them down the stream to the destined -port, the cargoes and boats are both sold, and the hands take passage -on board the steamboats, home.</p> - -<p>We stopped at all the villages and towns of any size on the river, -to take and leave passengers and freight; but books give such an -accurate description of them, as to render any particular notice -here unnecessary. Memphis is the most pleasant, Vicksburg the most -flourishing, and Natchez the largest—all on the east side of the river.</p> - -<p>There are no large towns on the west side of the river below the mouth -of the Ohio. As prominent as any, perhaps, is New-Madrid, situated -just within the southern border of the State of Missouri. It was -once a much larger village than at present. It is memorable for the -romantic history of its origin under General Morgan, and for the great -earthquakes in 1811 and 1812. Mr. Flint says that these earthquakes -were more severe than any known in our part of the continent. The -shocks were felt more or less throughout the whole western country; -but they were more severe and produced the most disastrous effects in -the region of New-Madrid.—The grave yard of the village, with all -its sleeping tenants was precipitated into the river—the trees were -violently thrown against each other, bent in various directions or -prostrated—the earth burst in many places, and earth, sand and water -were thrown<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> high into the air—thousands of acres were sunk and many -ponds formed—the river became dammed up and flowed backwards—islands -sunk in the stream, and boats as they passed shared the same fate—the -birds of the air became terrified, descended to the earth and flew -into the arms of man to shelter themselves from the commotion of -nature—the whole country for a time became inundated, but as it was -thinly inhabited few lives only were lost. History does not record an -earthquake attended with more terrific circumstances and threatening -a more exterminating war with man and nature, than this. The thriving -country about the village was made desolate, but now it is slowly -regaining its former condition. In this region the country is rich -and beautiful, but the many ponds made by the earthquake render it -unhealthy. New-Madrid is, however, quite a village, transacts much -business and is the most noted landing place for steamboats on the west -side of the river below St. Louis.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a></p> - - -<p>At Natchez, I left the boat, and stopped a day or two, to make the -necessary preparations to go over land on horseback to Texas. There is -a steamboat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> that plies regularly between this place and Alexandria on -Red River; and we should rather have travelled by water as far as that -place, and avoided crossing the Mississippi swamp by land; but the boat -had gone, and would not return under a number of days.</p> - -<p>Natchez is an incorporated city, containing about three thousand -inhabitants. That part of it which lies under the bluff near the river, -is muddy, looks old and disagreeable; but the main part of the city -is situated on a high bank, two hundred feet above the river; chiefly -built of brick, quite pleasant, and makes quite a show of business. The -ground back of it, is full of gullies, and is unpleasant. It is an old -town, but has much improved within a few years.</p> - -<p>Many people going to Texas continue on down the river to New-Orleans, -and there take a passage on board a vessel to some port in the -province; but my desire was to see the country, and therefore, I chose -to travel over land. A pleasant and companionable gentleman from the -State of New-York, who came down in the boat with me, agreed to bear me -company. Some acquaintances of his, with their families, were on the -road to Texas, and he like myself wished to see the country.</p> - -<p>Having provided ourselves with horses, portmanteaus, fireworks, &c. and -obtained the necessary directions, we took an early start; crossed the -Mississippi in a ferry boat, for which we were taxed half a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> dollar -each; and took the road to Alexandria. We had some ill-forbodings -about the great Mississippi swamp; for just as we were about to cross -the river a gentleman, of whom we made some enquires respecting the -route, told us he thought it now impossible to travel through it in -consequence of the rains which had recently fallen. But we were all -equipped to go by land, and this, our only route; and therefore, we -determined, at all events, to push forward.</p> - -<p>There is a road from the mouth of Red River, along its bank to -Alexandria, and this, we were afterwards informed, is the best route; -but it was seventy miles below us; and whoever takes it, must go down -in a boat.</p> - -<p>Our route lay, for the first six miles, up the river near its bank; -and then we turned more to the west. We passed half a dozen cotton -plantations, some quite large, and saw an army of negroes picking it.</p> - -<p>The cotton plant grows about as high as a man's head, has blossoms -about as big as that of a small rose, and resembling in appearance -the hollyhock, but more extensive branches. The pod is about the size -and shape of the outer covering of a walnut; and when ripe, it opens -in quarters, and presents the cotton in full view. A negro takes a -basket or a bag, and swings it at his side, and with his thumb and -finger picks out the cotton, almost as fast as a hen picks up corn. It -grows from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> seed, is planted every year in hills like corn, and -cultivated in the same manner.</p> - -<p>A field of cotton in full blossom, makes a fine appearance. After it is -picked, it is laid on a rack to dry; then ginned to take out the seed, -and put up in bales for the market. The rope and bagging used, are the -manufacture of Kentucky; or at least it brings more into market than -all the other States. I was told that one prime hand on good land would -<i>make</i> ten bales of cotton a year, and raise corn enough to support -himself. The average worth of these bales is five hundred dollars. From -enquiries I afterwards made, I believe the plantations generally make -about seven bales to the hand. No wonder negroes are valuable in a -cotton-growing country.</p> - -<p>Our route now lay through a dense forest—and the ground generally so -miry that we could only ride on a walk. Sometimes we came to the thick -canebrakes, about twenty feet high, and overhanging our narrow path. -Sometimes, we found the palmetto, which exactly resembles a large -green, open fan, standing on a stem a foot high, and so thick that we -could hardly ride through them, or see any path at all. Sometimes we -came to a sheet of water a hundred yards wide, in which a horse would -plunge to the saddle skirts, and for a while, become stuck fast; and -again, we would find a cypress swamp, full of cypress knees and mud. -Indeed it is the worst swamp I ever travelled over, be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>fore or since; -and sometimes, I thought our horses were stuck too fast ever to move -again.</p> - -<p>These cypress knees are quite a curiosity. They start from the roots of -the tree, grow from two to four feet high, about the size of a man's -arm, but rather larger at the bottom, and are smooth, without leaf or -branch. They look like a parcel of small posts with the bark growing -over the top end; and are so thick, that it is troublesome to ride -among them. The cause or use of this anomaly in nature I cannot divine.</p> - -<p>Eighteen miles from Natchez, we came to two log houses and a small -stream, called the Tensaw. We crossed the ferry, about twice the length -of the boat in width, and paid half a dollar each for ferriage. We had -now twelve miles to go to find a stopping place for the night, and -all the way, through a dense forest of lofty trees; and it was three -o'clock in the afternoon. The first half of the distance was decent -travelling, although we could not ride much of the way faster than a -walk. Then we came to a wet and miry road.</p> - -<p>It began to grow dark in the woods. The trees were quite thick, and -hung full of Spanish moss; and there was no moon in the sky. The wolf, -the wildcat, and the owl, had pitched their tune for the night; and -soon, thick darkness shrouded around our path. The heavens were clear; -yet so dense were the foliage and moss, that it was seldom I could find -a loop hole, through which a star might<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> cast its rays upon us. I never -had been in such a gloomy situation before. We were in a path, to us -untravelled; and by its appearance, seldom travelled by man. We had -shoals of muddy water to cross, and sloughs of mud to wallow through. -And then the night was so dark, and the track so faint, we frequently -lost it, and found it again with difficulty. It was ten o'clock at -night when we arrived on the shore of the lake, and saw a light on the -other side. We raised the ferryman after a while, and he came out and -took us over.</p> - -<p>This lake is about a mile wide, and twelve long, and must have once -been the channel of the Mississippi. The ferriage here was half a -dollar each. On the other side, we found a good house, and a genteel -family within. They soon provided for us an excellent supper, which -was very acceptable after a ride of thirty miles over such an -execrable road. Not being much used to travelling on horseback, I felt -excessively fatigued and retired immediately to bed. My companion and -myself had each of us a good bed, and we slept soundly until after -sunrise.</p> - -<p>The morning was fine, so we walked awhile along the shore of the lake, -before breakfast. It was about the twentieth of November, yet the air -felt as mild as a morning in June. The winter was following hard after -me, yet I had travelled to the southward and westward faster than the -cold weather. The coldest weather I had found on my route,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> was in the -State of New-York. There is a softness in the atmosphere of the western -States that is very grateful to the feelings, and is not found in our -northern climate. In going westward on the same parallel of latitude, -the air becomes sensibly more mild and bland. The air is very clear, so -here as in Illinois, I could discern objects much further than at the -North. I could see a house so far off, that it would not look larger -than a bee-hive. There had been no frost here, and nature wore her -livery of green.</p> - -<p>This gentleman has a fine cotton plantation of rich alluvial land. His -house is built facing the lake, on an Indian mound, levelled down to -the height of about six feet. We took breakfast with the family in a -large portico on the back side of the house. It was a good breakfast, -on a neat spread table, and the lady at the head performed the honors -of it, with an ease and grace seldom equalled. We performed our parts -to a charm, both in eating the breakfast and complimenting the hostess.</p> - -<p>This family were from the State of Virginia, and had been settled here -in Louisiana seven years.—The gentleman informed me they had generally -enjoyed good health, although they had sometimes been afflicted with -the fever and ague.</p> - -<p>It is refreshing to the weary traveller, when far away from his home, -to find a spot in his path, where he can renew his strength, and repose -in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> peace. At such a spot he lingers, leaves it with regret, and -treasures it up in his memory.</p> - -<p>I have often thought, that many persons do not travel in a right -spirit. They start on their journey with a full belief that all the -customs and modes of life they find, differing from those they have -been accustomed to, are all wrong, and proper subjects of censure -and dislike. They see nothing in its true light, enjoy nothing, find -fault with everything; and are continually running their heads against -a post. They are always on the rack; and probably punish themselves -as much as they do every one around them. But such a course betrays -a gross ignorance. Who can read the outpourings of madame Trollope's -brain, without being convinced that she had too gross conceptions, -and too strong prejudices, to write the history of any people, whose -manners were different from her own. She saw nothing, only through a -jaundiced eye; and she had too narrow and contracted a mind, ever to -make the important discovery, that the fault might be in herself, and -not in the objects with which she was surrounded.</p> - -<p>Some prefer to be mere scavengers; and when they find anything gross or -impure, delight to exhibit it to the gaze of the world. I have often -thought of the severe reply of Dr. Johnson to a lady, who told him she -liked his dictionary, because he had no indelicate words in it. O, says -the doctor, I did not trouble <i>my</i> head about them, but I see <i>you</i> -have been looking for them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p> - -<p>Other travellers think, the more fault they find, the more they will -be noticed; and they will be treated with the more deference and -respect. I once happened to ride in the stage with the venerable Chief -Justice Marshall. He was affable and polite, at peace with himself, -and displeased at nothing. In the same stage, as if nature intended -to exhibit two beings, in bold relief, and make the contrast the more -striking, was a testy young man, who found fault with every thing, and -was pleased with nothing. He cursed the driver, the stage and the road; -and the country through which we travelled was too execrable to live -in. At the hotel, where we stopped to dine, he keeps the house in a -continual uproar. The dinner bell rang, and we set down at the table. -For some reason, he did not come in immediately; and when he made his -appearance, the table was entirely full. This was too much for him to -bear. He cursed the waiter for not saving a place for him. The waiter, -as quick as possible, provided him a place at a side table. But he was -determined not to be thrown into the shade in this manner. The Judge -ate his dinner in silence; but this <i>side table</i> gentleman kept a -continual cry for something. "I say, waiter"—bring me this, and bring -me that.—His vociferations became quite annoying. At length, he cried -out with rather increased vehemence, "I say, waiter, bring me a <i>fresh</i> -potatoe." The moment this was uttered, one of the gentleman at our -table said, "Waiter, give that gentleman a <i>fresh</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> chair, I am sure he -has set in that one long enough." This was a damper. It caused quite a -laugh at the young man's expense. He became silent, and after dinner, -we saw no more of him.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a></p> - - -<p>"Behold us mounted once again,"—and immediately after leaving this -gentleman's plantation, we again passed into a dense forest and found -a muddy path. In about six miles we found some sandy land and pine -timber, and here we left what is called the Mississippi swamp. We soon -came to the outlet of the lake, which we had to ford. The water was -deep, and the shore deep mud. It was a difficult job to make a horse -wallow through. We were told that a horse got swamped and died in the -mud, a few feet from the spot where we crossed.</p> - -<p>We came to the banks of Washita river, followed it down three miles, -and crossed over to Harrisonburg. The town is built on a level plain -on the west bank of the river; but it contains not more than twenty -houses. This river empties into Red River, and is navigable for -steamboats a long distance above the village. It is forty-two miles -west of Natchez. On this river are the lands where the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> famous Aaron -Burr <i>talked</i> of establishing a colony; but unless the land above -and below is better than in this region, it might not have been very -flourishing. The soil is too sandy and poor.</p> - -<p>We rode twenty-five miles over a rolling sandy country, generally -covered with pine woods; and stopped at night with a gentleman who had -been one of Burr's party. He did not seem inclined to say much of that -ill-fated expedition. Here we were kindly treated, and fared well. He -had been there nineteen years; had cleared a large plantation; raised -cotton, corn and cattle; had eight or ten negroes, and possessed the -necessaries of life in abundance. But he still lived in a log house, -without a glass window in it. I asked him, why he did not have windows. -He said, the house was well enough; if the hole cut for a window did -not make it light enough, he opened the door. It was not just such a -house as I should be contented in, for nineteen years, and possessing -the wealth he had.—It, however, was to his taste; and for aught I -could see, he was as happy as those who live in much better houses.</p> - -<p>To-day we travelled thirty-three miles to Alexandria, just one hundred -miles from Natchez. The first forty was Mississippi swamp, excellent -land, but a good deal of it too low for cultivation; the last sixty -miles was, with few exceptions, hilly, sandy, pitch pine woods. We -passed only a few good plantations. Occasionally, we found a small -prairie of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> poor soil, and a deserted log house. It was indeed the -most dreary road I ever travelled. In the last day's travel, we passed -two small rivers; one we crossed in a ferry boat; and to our special -wonder, we found quite a decent bridge over the other.</p> - -<p>Red River is rightly named; it is almost as red as blood, caused by -the red soil through which it passes. It is quite a large stream; but -the water is too brackish to drink, or for culinary purposes. The only -resource of the inhabitants of Alexandria is to catch rain water for -which they have enormous large cisterns. We crossed the river opposite -the town in a ferry boat, and found the current about as strong as that -of the Mississippi. It is navigable for steamboats, in a moderate stage -of water, as high up as "the raft," and when the removal of that is -completed, for a long distance into the country. About a mile above the -town, there is a short rapid which boats cannot pass when the water is -low.</p> - -<p>The mouth of Red River has probably undergone some changes. It is -almost certain, that in by-gone years, Red River had its own separate -channel to the Gulf of Mexico; but in process of time, the ever -changing Mississippi river took a long turn that way; struck into its -channel, and after appropriating its waters and three miles of its -bed to its own use, wheeled round to the left, and pursued its own -course to the ocean. In this state of the case, the upper part of Red -River became a tributary of the Mississippi, and the lower part a mere -waste-way to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> pass off its superfluous waters. But the inconstant -Mississippi, a short time ago, cut out for itself a new, strait channel -across the bend, and left Red River to itself. This cut-off, however, -proved of incalculable advantage to that section of country. It let off -the Mississippi waters so freely, that a large tract of most excellent -land does not now overflow; and this is sought for with avidity, and -settling fast.</p> - -<p>Alexandria is pleasantly situated on a level plain, the south side of -Red River, one hundred and four miles from its mouth, and three hundred -and twenty-nine from New-Orleans. It is regularly laid out in squares; -has a court house, three hotels, eight or ten stores, two or three -groceries, and a number of good dwelling houses. Its chief export is -cotton, and that of the first quality. Red River cotton commands the -highest price in market. I saw a large number of bales piled on the -river bank, and wagon loads coming in.</p> - -<p>Gentlemen and ladies, in pleasure carriages and on horseback, were -riding through the streets; and the hotels were full of guests. It -appears to be a place of business and of pleasure; of much wealth, and -in a rich neighborhood. This place and Natchitoches, seventy-five miles -above it, are the only towns of any size in this section of the country.</p> - -<p>At the upper end of the town, there is a regular laid out race-course, -of a circular form, and a mile in extent. Here, the speed of horses is -frequently put to the test, and extensive bets made on the re<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>sult. -This seems to be the favorite sport of this country—of more absorbing -interest than any other; and about which the people talk more than on -any other one subject. Good race-horses are of great value, and almost -any price will be given for them. Although the race-course may have -its great attractions—it may exhilarate the feelings, to see that -noble animal, the horse, with mettle high, and lofty bearing, spurn the -dust beneath his feet, and skim along the plain with the swiftness of -the wind; and although it may have a tendency to improve the breed of -horses; yet upon the whole, may it not be said, that it is purchasing -improvement and pleasure, at a great expense of time and money; and, -independent of its moral effect upon society, productive of more evil -than good.</p> - -<p>Gambling is too much the order of the day. A large billiard room faces -the main street in this village, and seems never to lack for customers. -In this room one man killed another by striking him on the head with -the <i>cue</i>, and his trial was just finished as I arrived. He was -convicted of manslaughter, and sentenced to ten years confinement in -the State Prison. The result of the trial gave general dissatisfaction -among the people. They thought he ought to have been convicted of -murder and suffered its penalty.</p> - -<p>Not much attention is paid to the cultivation of vegetables or fruit. -The peach and fig-tree were the only fruit trees I saw, and but few of -them.—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>The fig-tree much resembles our northern quince tree, but grows -some larger in size. The only vegetables we had at table, were turnips -and sweet potatoes. The northern potatoe will not produce a crop unless -new seed is obtained every year.</p> - -<p>All the beds in this region are surrounded with thin curtains, or as -they are termed here, moscheto-bars, to protect the inmate from that -pestiferous, anti-sleeping insect, the moscheto. Of all insects this -world produces, the moscheto is the most troublesome and annoying. To -lie down without a bar, as I sometimes did, and fight the moschetoes -all night long is dreadful. Too tired and sleepy to keep awake, I would -fall into a drowse, only to be aroused in a moment by half a dozen -dabbing into my face, and singing in my ears. They are indeed, too -familiar by half; and the only chance to cut their acquaintance is to -flee. I would not spend my days in the region of moschetoes for the -sake of wealth, for I should only possess splendid misery.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a></p> - - -<p>About a mile above this place, we left Red River, and travelled the -road on the bank of Bayou Rapide for twenty-five miles, to the mansion -house of a Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> Henderson, where we stayed over night. In this day's -ride, we passed over as rich land as I ever saw, covered with extensive -cotton plantations. It is all river-bottom land of a red clayey soil; -and all along the road, as we passed, we saw clouds of negroes with -bags and baskets at their sides, picking cotton. The land produces an -abundant and a profitable crop, and the planters appear to have grown -rich. But it seems not exactly to be a paradise, if there be indeed, -any such a place on earth. It is excessively annoyed by moschetoes, -and is very unhealthy. During the warm, sickly summer months, the -planters with their families flee to the pine woods, where the air is -fine and salubrious; and leave their overseers and negroes to battle -with disease and moschetoes, the best way they can. They are very -companionable, hospitable and kind, and their style of living is much -the same as that of the southern planters generally.</p> - -<p>About half way up, we crossed the stream over a bridge to the right -hand side; and just before we arrived at Mr. Henderson's, we crossed -it again. Soon after we crossed it the first time, I happened to cast -my eyes towards the stream, and found it running the other way! We had -certainly been travelling all along up the stream; and now, without any -apparent cause, either in the "lay of the land," or direction of the -channel, it was just as certain its current was with us. I enquired of -our host the meaning of all this. He pleasantly observ<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>ed, that the -streams in this part of the country, were very accommodating; they -could go almost any way. He, however, explained the phenomenon. He -said, the channel of the stream, by the side of which we had travelled, -was, undoubtedly, once the bed of Red River. Ten miles above him, the -river had taken a straight course to Alexandria, and left its former -circuitous route. The water, which we now saw running, is supplied by -a stream from the lake, enters the old channel on the opposite side -from where we were travelling, then divides itself, one half running -down and entering the river near Alexandria, and the other running up -the old bed, and entering the river ten miles above. When the river -is high, a portion of it flows round in its old bed, and drives the -upper current along with it. So that by this house the stream runs -about half of the year one way, and the other half in the opposite -direction! A rather difficult stream I should think, to build a mill -upon. This is indeed quite a curiosity; but to the explanation one -objection may be urged. If this be in fact the old bed of Red River, -and from examination I am satisfied it is, one might naturally suppose -it would be all along descending <i>one way</i>; and, therefore, the stream -which enters it would not divide itself, but the <i>whole</i> of it run in -the <i>same direction</i> that the river formerly did. The answer to this -is, the stream coming in, carried sand with it, and for a considerable -distance somewhat filled up the old channel, so as to make a descent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> -each way; but not so much as to prevent Red River when high, from -sweeping round, in its former course.</p> - -<p>A curiosity, in some respects similar to this, is found in Arkansas -territory. White river and Arkansas river enter the Mississippi ten -miles apart; and about twenty miles above, there is a direct water -communication between them; which is a large navigable stream; the -water of which runs, sometimes one way and sometimes the other, -according to the comparative height of each river; so that a person -living on its bank, could make no sort of calculation which way the -stream might run, from day to day.</p> - -<p>Mr. Henderson has a large house pleasantly situated on a sandy hill -near the pine woods, and commands an extensive view in front of the -river flatland, and cotton plantations. We here fared well; and as Mr. -Henderson has ample accommodations, his house may be safely recommended -as a stopping place for the traveller. Our route now lay through -the pine woods. Our object was to strike the road from Natchitoches -to Mexico, at the nearest point practicable; and this spot, we were -told, was at the garrison, fort Jessup. This fort is situated half way -between Natchitoches and the Sabine river, the line between the United -States and Texas; being twenty-five miles from each. Natchitoches -being twenty-five miles north of our route, we concluded not to pass -through it; but when Red River is high, trav<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>ellers to Texas often take -a passage on board a steamboat from Natchez to that place, and from -thence, take the Mexican road.</p> - -<p>From Mr. Henderson's an intelligent gentleman, well acquainted with the -country, travelled with us three or four days on our route; and from -whom we obtained much information. This day, we travelled forty miles -through an unbroken forest of pitch pine. The land is sandy, gently -undulating, but seldom rocky. The trees were of good size, but not so -thick together as to prevent the grass from growing beneath them; or -the traveller from seeing a great distance as he passes along. About -half way, we found a small log house, in which a white man lived with -a black wife. With some people, I suppose this would be commendable; -but I confess it gave me unpleasant feelings to see half a dozen of -<i>half-bloods</i> running about the house. He professed to keep a sort of -tavern, but all the refreshment we obtained was bread and meat.</p> - -<p>At night, we came to the house of a planter, near a small river. He had -a hundred acres cleared of river bottom land, which had been planted -with cotton and corn; a large stock of cattle and hogs, which ranged in -the woods. He had lived here twelve years, was worth twenty thousand -dollars; yet still lived in a log house with only two rooms, and -without a window in it. Our supper was fried beef, fried greens, sweet -potatoes, corn bread and a cup of coffee, without milk or sugar; which -we ate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> by the light of the fire, as he had neither a candle or a lamp. -Our fellow traveller told us that we had now got out of the region -of what we should call comfortable fare; and we might expect to find -it worse, rather than better, all the way through Texas. Our lodging -was on a comfortable bed made of Spanish moss; and our breakfast -exactly like our supper, which we ate with the doors open to give us -light. Our bill was a dollar each, for supper, breakfast, lodging and -horsekeeping; and this, I found to be the general price, in all country -places throughout Texas.</p> - -<p>After passing the river and about a mile of bottom land, we came to -the pine woods again. I could always tell when we approached a stream, -by the trees being covered with Spanish moss. The first I saw, was on -the Mississippi, about a hundred miles above Natchez; and in all the -region south of that, it is found hanging to the limbs of the trees -near streams of water. It is of a silver-grey color, hanging straight -down from the limbs three or four feet, like a horse's mane. It looks, -perhaps, more like dressed flax than any thing else; and some of -the trees were so completely covered with it that we could scarcely -discover any thing but the moss. It does not strongly attach itself to -the limb I used to pull off handfulls of it, as we passed along, to -examine. It is but the work of a few minutes to gather enough for a -bed. The only preparation necessary is to scald it in hot water, or to -let it re<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>main awhile in cold water, to rot like hemp. It then looks -like fine long hair, and a dark brown color. When dry, it is whipped, -and put into the tick. It makes a very good, cheap bed, and lasts a -long time. Of this material most of the beds in this country are made, -and sometimes a mattress of the kind is found at the north.</p> - -<p>All the river bottom lands at the south, are covered with a dense, -heavy growth of trees, among which are many kinds not found at the -north. The cotton-wood grows very large, somewhat resembling the -whitewood of the western States. The magnolia, celebrated for its -large, splendid blossom, is an evergreen, having a dark, green leaf -an inch and a half wide, and two and a half long, and of the size of -the maple—the peccan, a tree resembling the walnut, and bearing a -round nut an inch long, equal to the hickory-nut—the hackberry, about -the size and much resembling the beach—the holly, a small evergreen, -having a small thick leaf—the chinquopin, a mere shrub, resembling the -chestnut tree, and bearing a similar but smaller nut. We frequently -found the grape vine of large size running high up the trees; and -occasionally, a spot of cane-brake.</p> - -<p>This day's travel was through the pine woods, except at some few places -where we found a small clearing and a log house, near some small -stream. We did not go by fort Jessup. Our companion knew of a nearer -route, and we took it. About the middle of the afternoon, we came out -on the Mex<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>ican road, three miles south of the garrison. It appeared -to be a road a good deal travelled by wagons, as well as on horseback; -some places running through swamps and muddy; occasionally, a bridge -over the most miry streams; but generally in a state of Nature. The -land became some better, and we passed more settlements.</p> - -<p>At night we stopped at a log house kept by a widow. She had, living -with her, two sons and one daughter. The house had no windows, and but -one room in it. Near it, was a small kitchen where a negro woman did -the cooking. Our fare was very similar to that of the night before, -except the old lady had a candle on the table at supper. There were -four beds in the room where we all slept—the old lady and her daughter -in one bed—her two sons in another—and we three travellers in the -other two. I hope the delicate nerves of my fair readers may not -greatly be disturbed at this; if they are, they must close the book, -and read no further; for If I must tell "the whole truth," I shall be -obliged to state, that during the thirty following nights, I often -slept in the same room with one or more ladies!</p> - -<p>The old lady had about twenty acres cleared and cultivated with corn; -but the land is not the first rate. The fact is, all along Missouri, -Arkansas and Louisiana, after you get sixty or seventy miles west of -the Mississippi river, you come to light, sandy, hilly land; generally -covered with pitch pine; ex<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>cepting a narrow strip on the margin of the -streams; so that half of Missouri, three-fourths of Arkansas, and half -of Louisiana, are poor land, hardly fit for cultivation. This is not -what I had supposed; but from my own observations, and the information -of travellers, I believe this to be the fact.</p> - -<p>We took an early start, and travelled on. The northern people have -been accused of being very inquisitive; but I am sure I would turn -out the people here against them on a wager. As a general rule, we -were inquired of, "where from"—"where going," &c. &c. To-day, a man, -twenty rods distant from the road, came running up, and asked us, -where we were from. I thought this was carrying inquisitiveness too -far; and so I took the yankee privilege of answering his question by -asking another, viz:—If it was out of mere curiosity, or for the sake -of obtaining information beneficial to himself, that induced him to -enquire. He said he was from Kentucky himself, and did not know but we -might be from there also; and in that case, he wished to inquire the -news. I told him we were none of us from Kentucky. But this did not -satisfy him; he insisted upon knowing where we were from; and appeared -quite vexed that he could not obtain the information from any of us.</p> - -<p>We passed a number of covered waggons, generally with four horses, -loaded with goods and families bound to Texas. They invariably lodge -out doors over night. They carry their own provis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>ions with them, and -select some spot where there is plenty of wood and water, build up a -fire, cook their meals, turn their horses or oxen loose to feed on -the prairie, or in the woods, and camp down on the grass by the side -of the fire. I saw some who had been thirty and forty and sixty days -on the road; from Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, &c. and said they had -not put up at a house for a single night. Some of them looked quite -"wearied and worn;" and if they do indeed find rest at last, it must be -confessed, that "through great tribulation," they enter the promised -land.</p> - -<p>About noon to-day, we came to the Sabine river, the dividing line -between the United States and Texas. We had now travelled from Natchez -two hundred and twenty-five miles on horseback; and this, the seventh -day since we started. I had now become used to the saddle; and saving -the muddy roads and miry streams which we sometimes found, I enjoyed -the trip very well. I was surprised to find the Sabine so small a -river. I should think it was not more than one third as large as Red -River. It is a deep muddy stream, and gentle current. We were paddled -across the river by a woman, who was a "right smart" one, and landed at -last on the shore of</p> - -<p class="center"> -<b>TEXAS.</b> -</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a></p> - - -<p>I had read and heard so many fine descriptions of Texas—its pleasant -streams, beautiful prairies, mild climate, and extensive herds of -buffalo, wild horses and cattle, that it was with no small degree of -enthusiasm, I set foot, for the first time, on its territory. I cast my -eyes back for a moment on the United States; then turned to the "fairy -land," with high hopes and bright anticipations.</p> - -<p>The Sabine has two or three miles of good bottom land on each side, -heavily timbered; but it is too much subject to inundation to be -cultivated.—After we passed the river bottom, we came to gentle -swells, of red clayey soil, covered with oak, hickory, &c. called oak -openings. Sometimes we passed a small prairie; and occasionally, a -log house and a small field. Thus we passed ten miles; and here, our -fellow traveller, having arrived to the end of his journey, left us. -He had travelled a hundred miles with us; was an intelligent man, well -acquainted with the country, and we became too much interested in him, -not to feel serious regret at parting. This is one of the disagreeable -things in travelling; we form acquaintances only to leave them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span></p> - -<p>We now found cotton fields, as well as corn; more extensive -plantations, and better houses. We passed two race-courses by the road -side, and stopped for the night, at a very decent looking double log -house, having a wide portico in front, and a wide avenue through the -centre. Here, we found good accommodations. The house contained three -or four rooms, and had about the same number of glass windows in it. We -had for supper, venison, sweet potatoes, corn bread, coffee, butter and -milk. Back of the house, I observed a small orchard of apple trees, the -only one I found in all Texas. The trees looked thrifty, and had just -begun to bear fruit. In front, near the road, was as fine a spring of -good, clear, soft water, as I ever saw; but it was hardly cold enough -for a northern man. Here were extensive fields of cotton and corn. This -planter had a cotton gin and press. The cotton was sent by land to -Natchitoches; to be transported from thence to New-Orleans by water.</p> - -<p>Six miles from this, we came to an entirely new village, called St. -Augustine, near a stream called the Ayish Bayou. About two years ago, -it was laid out; and now it contains two large taverns, three stores, a -court house, and ten or a dozen dwelling houses. There is a good school -kept here, to which scholars are sent from some distance. It would -be tedious, however, to relate the particulars of this, and the two -succeeding days—it would only be the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> same story over again. Our fare -was rather poor—the meals, better than the lodging.</p> - -<p>One night, we slept in a new framed house, one side all open to the -weather; and the other, we slept in a log house, the interstices -between the logs not filled up, so that you might thrust your arm out -almost any where. This night we had a smart shower, accompanied by a -strong wind, and the rain beat in so liberally, I was obliged to haul -my bed eight or ten feet to leeward. We passed quite a number of log -houses, small plantations, through oak openings and pine plains, and, -at length, came to the ancient town of Nacogdoches.</p> - -<p>I could not but smile at the odd and grotesque appearance of -Nacogdoches, as I entered the principal street of the town. In by-gone -days, the Spaniards built a town of log houses; generally having the -logs standing perpendicular at the sides and ends, and the space -between them filled with mud; with chimneys made of the same materials. -These look old and woe-begone. In modern times, the Americans have -erected a number of elegant, framed houses, well finished and painted -white; and these are scattered along among these ancient hovels. The -contrast is very striking, and somewhat ludicrous. Before me, stood -an ancient Roman Catholic church, built in true Spanish style, with -perpendicular logs and mud; now falling to decay, and presenting to the -eye a hideous mass of ruins.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span></p> - -<p>The town stands on a beautiful plain; having a small stream of water -on each side; is very healthy; and when American industry shall have -removed these dark spots from its surface, will be a most desirable -place in which to reside. It has two public houses; and the one we -put up at, had very respectable accommodations. There are a number -of stores, which carry on a brisk trade with the country people and -Indians. The chief article the Indians have to sell is deer pelts; and -in the course of the year, they bring in a large number. These are done -up in bales, and sent by land to the United States.—These skins are -bought of the Indians by weight, and, I was told, the average amount -was about fifty cents apiece. I observed a number of Indians in town -on horseback; and this is the general mode of travelling for all the -western and southern Indians.</p> - -<p>Nacogdoches is the head quarters of the "<span class="smcap">Galveston Bay and Texas -Land Company</span>." The lands of this Company embrace three grants; -that of Xavala, Burnet and Vehlein, and are bounded on the northeast -by the Sabine River; on the northwest by a small river called the St. -Jacinta; on the south by the gulf of Mexico—about one hundred and -seventy miles in width, and running northwest nearly three hundred; -equal to fifty-one thousand square miles. I shall now continue my -journal, and give hereafter a description of this Company's lands in my -general view of Texas.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span></p> - -<p>While at this place, I frequently saw Maj. <span class="smcap">Nixon</span>, the agent of -the Company for giving titles to the grants. He is quite an agreeable -and intelligent man, and very readily gave me all the information -respecting the country that I requested. No more than a league of land -is granted to foreigners; but to the Spaniards, a number of leagues are -frequently given. The Spaniards, however, place but little value upon -land. They sometimes have large flocks of cattle and horses; but are -too indolent to cultivate the soil. Quite a number of them reside at -Nacogdoches; some very respectable families; but a good many are poor -and indolent. They are of a darker complexion than the Americans, and -are readily designated at first sight.</p> - -<p>An instance of the little value placed upon land was stated to me while -here. An American had a fine looking dog that a Spaniard took a fancy -to; he asked the price and was told a <i>hundred dollars</i>. The Spaniard -replied, he had no money, but would give him a scrip for <i>four leagues -of land</i>! The bargain was immediately closed; and the land could now -be sold for $10,000. Truly, the old adage, "<i>dog cheap</i>," ought to be -reversed.</p> - -<p>Immediately after leaving the town, we came into pine woods again; to -all appearance, the same we had already passed over—rolling, sandy -soil; the trees straight and tall, but standing so far apart, that a -carriage might go almost anywhere among them. The grass grew beneath -them, and we could see a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> great distance as we passed along. And thus -it continued, for about twenty miles, with hardly a house on the way. -I thought, we never should have done with pine woods. We had travelled -about three hundred miles from Natchez; and two-thirds of the way had -been pine woods; and here, they made their appearance again. To ride -a short distance in them, is not unpleasant; but to continue on, day -after day, is too monotonous—there is no change of scenery.</p> - -<p>In twenty miles, we came to an elegant house, painted white, a large -portico in front; a neat paling round the yard, and large fields beside -the road. A saw and grist mill were building on a small stream, about -a mile from the house. We passed a small river over a bridge, having -split rails for a covering, instead of plank, and through pine woods, -oak woods and small prairies, and put up at a house near the bank of -the river Neches, forty miles from Nacogdoches.</p> - -<p>By the side of the road near his house, I saw a race-course, and the -gentleman told me there were frequent races on it. He had himself won -twelve hundred dollars on a bet, a short time before. His house was -made of hewn logs and clapboarded, having three rooms in it, but as -usual in this country, no windows. We had our common fare, beef, corn -bread and coffee.</p> - -<p>On a large prairie in front of his house, I saw two Indian mounds, and -as I had a little leisure be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>fore breakfast, I went out to examine -them. I had seen many of the Indian mounds in the western States and -Louisiana; and these were similar to them. The largest one was about -twenty feet high and ten in diameter. I was puzzled to find where the -dirt was taken from to make them, as the ground was a perfect level a -long distance around; but my host showed me the spot about half a mile -distant, and from the size of the excavation, I thought he was right. -No reason can be given, however, why the dirt was carried to such a -distance.</p> - -<p>Throughout the western and southern country, are found mounds of -earth of different sizes, shapes and heights—some, of a conical -form; others, of an oblong shape; and occasionally, much resembling -fortifications. They are first seen along the southern shore of Lake -Erie; they increase in number and size in Ohio, Indiana and Illinois; -are scattered over the Mississippi Valley; and are often found on the -plains of Texas, and along the Gulf of Mexico. They are generally found -on level prairies, or on rich and level woodland, and near lakes, -ponds, or streams of navigable water. A very interesting essay might be -written upon these Indian Mounds; but I shall notice only some of the -most remarkable.</p> - -<p>The largest mound in the state of Ohio, is on the level bottom land -of Grave Creek, near its entrance into the Ohio river, and fourteen -miles below Wheeling. It is 350 feet in diameter at the base, sixty<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> -feet across at the top, and seventy-five feet in height. The area at -the top is slightly concave, and from its centre, arises a stately -oak, in a straight shaft, like a flag-staff. One of these mounds has -been entirely demolished, and upon its site, is built the town of -Chillicothe. The town of Circleville is principally laid out within the -limits of two contiguous mounds—the one of a circular form; the other, -of an oblong square. The circular mound is much the largest, and from -which, the name of the town is derived.</p> - -<p>In the state of Missouri, a little north of St. Louis, are gigantic -and interesting mounds. These enormous stacks of earth lift their tall -heads high in the air, and show to advantage on approaching St. Louis -from the upper country.</p> - -<p>But the most numerous group of Indian mounds, is found in the state -of Illinois. They are situated on the American Bottom, and are said -to exceed two hundred in number. The largest and most remarkable of -these, stands near the bank of Cahokia creek. It is in the shape of -an oblong square, is eight hundred yards in circumference, and ninety -feet in height. On its south side, is an extensive and beautiful -terrace, which was formerly cultivated by the monks of La Trappe as a -garden. These monks had a monastery near the base of this mound; and -probably the earth could not afford a spot more in keeping with the -doctrines they professed. Near them, a stately monument of by-gone -ages, reared<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> its tall head far above their rude dwelling—around them, -a solitary prairie, bounded in the distance, either by stately trees -of the forest, or perpendicular cliffs of solid limestone. No human -habitations were within the bounds of vision; and it was indeed a -spot, sufficiently lonely and retired for those who chose to abstract -themselves from the busy scenes of active life, enjoy undisturbed the -solitude of the wilderness, and hold communion only with the God of -Nature.</p> - -<p>It has often been asked, who built these mounds, and for what purpose -were they erected? These are questions of difficult solution, and, -perhaps, at this late stage of the world, of useless discussion. Some -have supposed them to be places of interment; others believe them -to be sentry stations, upon which guards were placed to watch the -movements of the enemy. Although decayed bones have been found in some -of them, yet it is not probable that they were all erected simply as -monuments for the dead. Who built them? Their origin and use may never -be certainly known; but I am fully persuaded, the ancestors of the -present race of Indians did <i>not</i> erect them. The Indians, now upon the -stage, know nothing about them—make no use of them—and build none -like them. Now, if their ancestors built these stately mounds all over -the country, it is utterly impossible to believe that all tradition -would have been lost of such prominent monuments, that passed in review -before the eyes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> of their nation, from day to day, and year to year. -In addition to this, many of these mounds are of gigantic dimensions, -and show much more labor in their erection, than the present race of -Indians have ever been known to perform. The earth, of which they are -composed, is generally brought from a distance, and some of them must -have taken a thousand men a number of months to complete them.</p> - -<p>We found the Neches to be quite a river; clayey banks and muddy water. -We saw a boat on the other side; and a house half a mile distant, -through the woods. We could not tell whether it was fordable or not; -but after calling a few times for the ferryman, my companion concluded -to plunge in. I thought in that case, discretion was the better part of -valor; so I waited to see what became of him, before starting myself. -He had a good horse, and although the stream was deep, and quite a -current, he came safely out on the other bank; sustaining no other -damage than being decently wet. He was good enough, however, to loose -the boat, come over and take me across; remarking that there was no -great pleasure in fording streams like that. We now passed through -ten miles of pine woods; then prairies of a mile or so in extent, and -post-oak openings.</p> - -<p>This was the thirtieth day of November. The day was warm and mild, -although somewhat cloudy. As we were passing through the woods, it -became quite dark. On casting my eyes on the sun, I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> found it was under -an eclipse. It was here almost total. I thought it hardly lacked a -digit of being entirely covered.</p> - -<p>We stopped at night at a small log house on the side of an extensive -prairie. We found only a young woman at home. She said, she was from -the east part of Texas, had been married only a week, and moved there a -few days previous. Her husband soon returned. He had been to spend the -day, it appeared, at a neighbor's, seven miles distant, and left the -new made bride at home alone. All we obtained here to eat, was meat and -corn bread, and water to drink; and that not very good. He had sixty or -seventy head of cattle, twenty cows; but no milk, butter, or cheese. -He had quite a large field under cultivation, in which he raised corn -only. He had a hired man to help him take care of the flocks and the -field, and to accompany him in his hunting excursions. A number of -skins were stretched out on the sides of his buildings, as the trophies -of his prowess and success; among which, I noticed the skin of a large -panther. In the morning, his wife went a quarter of a mile for water, -picked up wood and built a fire; and the two men looked on and did -nothing. What young lady would not marry, if she could pass such a -honey-moon as this!</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></p> - - -<p>The next day, we passed three houses, a number of prairies and post-oak -openings; but found no more pine woods. Immediately on this side of -the Trinity, we passed over a low, wet prairie, four miles in extent; -where a horse would sink in to the fetlock joint; and then, half a -mile of heavy timber. The Trinity is a large stream; but not quite as -large as Red River—deep, navigable, and muddy water. We stopped at the -house of an intelligent farmer on the other bank of the river. Here, -our accommodations were very good. He had a house of hewn logs, three -rooms, no windows, a portico in front and rear, and an avenue through -the middle. The front yard was fenced in; and a kitchen and smoke house -were in the back yard. He had a large field cultivated with corn, and -perhaps, half a dozen negroes.</p> - -<p>I here found a young man who deserved commiseration. He was from -Missouri. With his young wife and two small children, the youngest not -quite a year old, he started in a wagon for Texas. He had been two -months on the road; encamped out in the woods every night, although -they had some wet and chilly weather. The fa<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>tigues of such a long -journey, and the many attentions such small children required at the -hands of the wife while on the route, were more than her constitution -could endure. She became worn down almost to a skeleton; and grew daily -more enfeebled; but as they were approaching the end of the journey, -she kept up a good heart, and exerted herself to the utmost. But "tired -nature" could do no more. She sickened and died—and left her husband -in a distant land, with two infant children. Those who have endured the -agony of a parting scene like this, although surrounded by relatives -and friends, may form some estimate of the measure of pity due to him!</p> - -<p>There are many hardships, perplexities and sufferings, necessarily -attendant upon a removal to a new and distant country; and any accident -or misfortune is more severely felt, because a person has no chance of -remedying the evil. I do think, a single family ought not to go to a -new country alone; but a number in company; and then they can assist -each other in all their hardships and trials.</p> - -<p>At the mouth of Red River, a gentleman, moving on to Texas with his -family, lost his pocket-book, containing about four hundred dollars. -He carried it in the breast pocket of his coat; and in unlading some -of his goods from the steamboat, he stepped forward to assist, pulled -off his coat, threw it across the railing, and the pocket-book dropped -out into the water and sunk. It would have swam<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> on the water, had it -not contained three or four dollars in specie. Search was made for it; -but the stream was so deep and muddy, they were foiled in all their -attempts to find it. This was, at such a time and in his situation, a -severe misfortune. On the road, two thousand miles from the place he -started from, and five hundred more to travel; his family with him, -and all his money gone. A family of his acquaintance happened to be -in company with him, and through their assistance, he was enabled to -proceed.</p> - -<p>Another case was stated to me, more aggravating than this, because it -was not the effect of accident but of knavery. A gentleman, moving from -Michigan to Texas, brought down in the boat a valuable horse worth -three hundred dollars. On board, he became acquainted with a young -man, who wished employment, and he hired him. When they arrived at the -mouth of Red River, he concluded to send his horse by the young man -across the country by land, and he and his family would go round by -water. He, accordingly, equipped the horse with a new, elegant saddle, -bridle, martingale and saddle bags; and supplied the young man with a -good greatcoat, and twenty dollars in money, and started him off. And -that was the last time he saw man, horse or equippage! He incidentally -heard, that a man answering his description, gambled away a horse and -equippage at Alexandria.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span></p> - -<p>For ten miles after leaving Trinity river, we passed over some most -beautiful rolling prairies. Although it was December, yet the air was -mild and serene, and the grass as green as in June. These prairies much -resemble those of Illinois; and on some of them, we saw large herds of -cattle feeding. We passed some miry swamps and deep muddy streams. The -most disagreeable part of the whole trip, was the fording of streams. -The banks were generally steep down into the water; and so slippery, we -had sometimes to dismount, hold on to a tree, and let the horse slide -down; then pull the horse beside us, mount him in the water, and ride -across. I would sometimes take my saddle bags off, send my horse over -by himself, and find a tree or a log on which to pass myself. The water -was very muddy, so that we could not see the bottom, or form hardly -any idea how deep it might be, until we forded. One stream was a very -bad one. There were logs in the bottom, embedded in the mud about the -middle of the river; and when our horses passed them, they struck into -a channel where the water was about two feet deeper; their heads were -suddenly plunged under water, and we came very near being thrown into -the stream. Among the trees in the swamps, I noticed the red cedar, -to-day, for the first time. It grows to quite a large tree, and is very -good timber for building, boards, posts, &c.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> - -<p>To-day, we found by the side of the path a number of petrified limbs -of trees; and in one place, there was a log about a foot in diameter, -turned into stone. We broke off some pieces which plainly showed the -grains of wood; and on one side the bark remained and was petrified -also. It might probably be manufactured into good hones, although it -was coarser grained, and of a lighter shade, than those usually found -at our stores.</p> - -<p>We passed only two houses this day, and put up for the night at a -miserable log house occupied by a widow woman. She had a large stock of -fine looking cattle, but no milk. Our fare was not of the best kind, -although the old lady tried to accommodate us as well as she could.</p> - -<p>There are few mills of any kind in the whole country. The corn is -ground in a steel mill, like a coffee mill, although much larger, and -having a crank on each side. This is commonly nailed to a tree before -the door. The corn is often left standing in the field, and gathered -only as fast as they wish to use it. It used to amuse me, when we rode -up to a house at night, and called for a meal, to hear the woman sing -out to a boy, "Run to the field and bring two or three ears of corn—I -want to make some bread for the gentlemen's supper." So we had to wait -until the corn was gathered, ground, kneaded and baked, before we could -have bread to eat. I suppose this is the true method of "living from -hand to mouth."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span></p> - -<p>We took an early start next morning, and after passing swamps, streams -and woods, came out into a fine prairie country. Our path led over the -top of one, somewhat elevated above the general level of the country, -and from which we could see many miles all around. It was a prospect -too grand and imposing to be adequately described.</p> - -<p>As we passed along by the side of an extensive prairie, we saw two -Indians horseback, on an elevated spot, about half a mile distant, with -guns in their hands, and looking at the country beyond them. On seeing -us, they wheeled their horses and came at full speed down upon us. We -were a little startled at first; but they halted within a few rods -of us, stared a moment, and then civilly passed the time of day, and -enquired in broken English, the distance to a house on the road we had -come. I never was an enthusiastic admirer of the Indian character. They -may have done some noble deeds of daring, and performed some generous -acts of disinterested friendship; but they possess and practice the -art of deception so well, that no one can know, with any degree of -certainty, when these acts may occur. When I see Indians approaching, -I hardly know whether it is for good or for evil; and therefore, never -feel entirely at ease in their society.</p> - -<p>The Romans, in the days of their prosperity, prided themselves in -being called a <i>Roman citizen</i>; and this was generally, a sufficient -protection from depredation and insult, when travelling among the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> -more barbarous nations around them. Like the Romans, I felt not a -little pleasure in the thought, that I was an <i>American citizen</i>, and -that this was a protection from outrage and insult in the presence of -the savage Indian. Since my return, I have seen an account of twenty -Polanders, while on their way from New-Orleans to Mexico, who were -attacked by the Indians in Texas, and all killed except one, who was -fortunate enough to escape and tell the story. Had not the Indians -readily discovered by our personal appearance, that we were <i>American</i> -citizens, we might have shared the same fate.</p> - -<p>We passed a muddy swamp, in many places the water standing in the road -a foot or two in depth; densely covered with timber, and four miles in -extent. As we emerged from this, we came upon the bank of the Brazos -river, at Hall's ferry. This is a stream of the size and complexion of -Red River. In crossing in a boat, we found a strong current. On the -other side there is a high bank on which a town has been laid out; but -now contains only three dwelling houses and one store. Here we stayed -over night. Late in the afternoon, a Spanish trader arrived and put up -for the night. He had two men, five mules and one horse and wagon with -him. His goods were bought at Natchitoches, and he was transporting -them to St. Antonio in the interior of Texas. They were made up into -convenient bundles, hung across the mules' backs and stowed in the -wagon. They were all armed with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> guns; and the trader himself had a -pistol at each side. He could not well talk English and we conversed -but little with him. He had a strong dislike to the Indians, and was -afraid of being robbed by them. Of this ill-will, the Indians have -their full share. In hunting parties composed of both Americans and -Spaniards, when attacked by the Indians in their excursions along the -Rocky Mountains, they have been known to spare the Americans, when they -have killed all the Spaniards.</p> - -<p>The next day's ride was through a most beautiful open prairie country. -We crossed some small streams, skirted with timber and small groves -on the highland; but generally, we found high, rolling prairie. The -live-oak made its appearance to-day. This is an evergreen and a -beautiful tree. We saw them growing in an open prairie, sometimes, -one standing by itself, about the size, and at a distance, of the -appearance of the northern apple tree.</p> - -<p>On a fine high prairie, we observed quite a number of elegant houses, -a store, a tavern, &c. and some fine farms. This is called Cole's -Settlement; and from the beautiful scenery around, and the respectable -appearance of the inhabitants, I inferred that it is a desirable -neighborhood.</p> - -<p>We stopped for the night at a house half way between the Brazos and -Colorado rivers; being thirty-five miles from each. A few years ago, a -town was lotted out in this place, but still it shows only one decent -farm house. Here is a gristmill turned by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> horses, and does a good deal -of business; and profitable too, for the rule is to take one sixth part -for toll. In the neighborhood, I saw a very good looking house, built -of limestone.</p> - -<p>From this place to the Colorado river, we passed only two houses; a -distance of thirty-five miles; and the complexion of the country was -similar in all respects to that of the day before. At a very decent -farm house on an extensive prairie, by the side of the river, we put up -for the night; and remained here and in the neighborhood, a number of -the succeeding days.</p> - -<p>And now from this central position, I propose to take a more general -view of the country. I stayed more than a month in Texas, traversed -the country in various directions, conversed with the inhabitants, and -gained what information I could within that time. I feel therefore, -somewhat qualified to speak of the country. And this I shall do -fearlessly; yet I hope, in sincerity and in truth. I am aware that many -articles have been written concerning this country, of various import -and meaning; but I shall speak for myself only, without reference to -others. I do not propose to write its geography or history. Had I the -means and ability accurately to do this, the limits of this work would -not allow of it. I only propose to give the information I obtained from -inspection, examination and enquiry, in a concise form and tangible -shape.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a></p> - -<p class="center">GENERAL VIEW OF TEXAS.</p> - - -<p>From whatever point you approach Texas, its aspect is unfavorable. If -it be by sea, you are met by a low, sandy beach and a marshy, flat -country, as far as the eye can reach. If by land, through Louisiana -and Red River, its first appearance is that of a poor country of hilly -land, chiefly covered with wood, and presenting to the eye a weak -soil, alternately of sand and of clay. But when you pass the border -towards the interior, the scene becomes entirely changed. You behold -a beautiful country of rich soil, rounded by the hand of nature into -the most fanciful forms, covered with eternal verdure, and begirt -with forests of stately trees. Earth may not afford a more beautiful -prospect than is obtained from the summit of an elevated prairie. On -such a spot I have stood, and gazed with admiration. The scene extends -all around as far as the eye can reach, and presents the varied aspect -of wood land and lawn, like sunshine and shade. Its appearance is so -much that of a country nicely cultivated by the hand of man, that one -can hardly believe himself to be in an uninhabited region; but he looks -in vain,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> to catch a glimpse of the husbandman's cottage, and his herds -of cattle feeding on the green fields. The din of human industry and -civilized life strikes not his ear, and the unwelcome truth is forced -upon him at last, that he is only in the solitude of the wilderness; -and the scene before him, with all its beauties, is left "to waste its -sweetness on the desert air!"</p> - -<p>The scenes of Texas have so much of fascination about them, that one is -disinclined to come down to the details of a common-place description -of the country. But the whole truth must be told. The public have a -right, and in fairness ought to know, the true state of the case. -The emigrant cannot live on air, or by admiring the beauties of the -country. It is of importance to him to know, what facilities the -country offers, for obtaining the necessaries and conveniences of life; -and what the prospect may be of enjoying them, when obtained.</p> - -<p class="center"> -<img src="images/illus01.jpg" alt="illustration" /> -</p> - -<p>In the first place, I shall strike off from the list of the resources -of the country, "the immense herds of buffalo and wild horses." They -are often paraded in the many published descriptions of Texas, as a -most prominent feature in the bright picture exhibited; and as one of -the many inducements to the emigrants to remove thither. But they are -no sort of benefit to the settler at all. They generally keep ahead of -population, some small herds only are ever seen near the settlements; -and there is not inducement enough for the husbandman to leave<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a><br /><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a><br /><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> his -farm, and go far into the interior, to catch the wild horse and kill -the buffalo, among tribes of hostile Indians; as the prospect of gain -would not equal the hardship, risk and expense. The wild horse is an -animal hard to catch; and when caught, it is difficult and troublesome -to tame him, and render him gentle and kind in harness and under -the saddle. It would be as well for the farmer if the fact of their -existence were not known; as it is easier to raise the animal in this -country of evergreen pasture, than to catch and tame the wild one. -There is one point of view, in which a knowledge of the existence of -these animals may be of some importance to the emigrant; it is proof -positive of the natural luxuriance of the soil, and of the mildness of -the climate.</p> - -<p>The wild horses are called by the Spaniards, <i>mustangs</i>. I saw some -small herds of them prancing at random over the plains. They are -quite wild, you can seldom approach very near them. They are of -various colors and of rather smaller size than the American horse. The -Spaniards are fond of good horses, and are good horsemen. Some of them -make a business of catching and breaking the mustangs. This is done by -building a fence in the shape of a harrow, with a strong pen at the -small end, and driving them into it; or mounting a fleet horse, get -as near as they can unperceived, then start after them at full speed, -throw a rope with a slip-noose at one end, and the other fastened to -the sad<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>dle, around the neck, haul out at right angles with their -course, and choke them down. When caught, they put the bridle on, take -them into a large, soft prairie, mount them at once, flog them with -the greenhide, and let them plunge and rear until they become fatigued -and subdued. After undergoing a few more operations of this kind, they -are deemed "fit for use." They are sold at various prices, from six -to twelve dollars; but unless they are caught when young, they never -become gentle as other horses.</p> - -<p>Texas appears like the State of Illinois. To the southward and westward -of Trinity river, it is generally an open prairie country. All the -streams have more or less bottom land, covered with a dense forest of -timber; and occasionally, a grove of post oak openings will be found -on the moist high land. The soil in these bottoms is very rich, but -some of them are too wet, or too subject to be overflowed to admit of -cultivation.</p> - -<p>A strip of land, bordering on the bays and sea coast, and sixty or -seventy miles in width, is flat, generally approaching to a dead level, -in the spring and fall very wet, and sometimes impassable. Beyond -this, comes the high, dry, rolling country, having no swamps except -immediately on the borders of the rivers. "The Galveston Bay and Texas -Land Company" have a good deal of good land, in pleasant and healthy -situations; and much of it, not yet settled; but they have also a good -deal of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> poor land. In their grant, are large tracts of pine woods -and post-oak plains; among which, are found some spots of good land, -but generally, it is of a weak and sandy soil. The pine woods are not -without their use. Their resinous qualities give a salubrity to the -air about them, and thereby render a situation in their neighborhood -healthy; and the trees themselves furnish an inexhaustible supply of -the first rate of timber. On the Sabine and Galveston Bays, there -are large prairies of good land, but low and flat; in the region of -Nacogdoches, are small prairies, large tracts of wood, good soil of -red clay, black marle, sandy land, and all the varieties of soil -imaginable. Higher up in the country, there are alternately prairies -and woodland, and an excellent soil. This Company's grant lies -contiguous to the United States, and except on the bay, is as healthy -as any part of the country; but it cannot be called the most pleasant -and beautiful portion of Texas.</p> - -<p>The prairies are all burnt over twice a year—in midsummer, and about -the first of winter. Immediately after the burning, the grass springs -up again; so that there is an abundant supply all the year round. No -country in the world can be compared to this, in the ease and facility -of raising stock. All the herdsman has to do, is to look after them, -so they may not stray away, and some portion of the year, yard them to -prevent their growing wild. The prairie grass is of a peculiar species, -un<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>like any thing we have at the north; but it is of so nutricious a -quality, that it keeps the cattle fat, all the year round. They grow -large and handsome. I never saw better looking herds in my life. The -horse does equally as well on grass, but if worked hard, requires -some grain. Hogs keep in good flesh all the year; and in autumn, when -the nuts fall from the trees, grow fat. Horses, cattle and hogs can, -therefore, be kept in this country without any more trouble than merely -looking after them to prevent their straying away.</p> - -<p>And then, there is plenty of game. First in the list, is the deer. I -hardly supposed there were as many deer on the continent, as I saw in -Texas.—They were continually crossing my path, or were seen in flocks -feeding on the prairies. I recollect that from an elevated spot, I -counted five flocks of deer in sight at the same time! In some parts -of the country, a man may about as certainly kill a deer if he choose, -as a northern farmer can kill a sheep from his flock. Their meat is -excellent, and their skins valuable.</p> - -<p>Deer-hunting is not very systematically practiced here, as it is in -some parts of the world. Indeed, they are so plenty, that it does not -require much method, or concert of action among a number of individuals -to kill them. The deer is a gregarious animal. You never find one -alone, unless it be accidentally strayed away from the flock. Sometimes -a number of hunters resort to a favorite haunt of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a><br /><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a><br /><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> the deer, and -while a part arouse them with the dogs in their retreat, and cause -them to flee, others will remain in ambush, near their usual crossing -places at the streams and swamps, and shoot them as they pass. In the -night they are decoyed by fire and killed. A hunter fixes a blazing -torch in his hat, or has another person to carry one just before him; -the deer will stand gazing at the light while he approaches, and by -the brilliancy of their eyes and space between them, calculates his -distance and takes his deadly aim. He must take especial care, however, -that the shadow of a tree or of any thing else does not fall upon the -deer; for in that event, he starts and is off in a moment.</p> - -<p class="center"> -<img src="images/illus02.jpg" alt="illustration" /> -</p> - - - -<p>Then there are the bear, Mexican hog, wild geese, rabbits, and a great -variety of ducks. The prairie hen is not so plenty here as in Illinois. -An emigrant, may, therefore, easily supply himself with meat. All he -has to do is "to kill and eat."</p> - -<p>Let us now glance at the soil, and see what that will produce. This -subject I attended to, somewhat critically. It will produce cotton, -sugar cane, Indian corn, rye, barley, oats, rice, buckwheat, peas, -beans, sweet potatoes and all common garden vegetables. The cabbage -does not form a compact head as it does at the north. Wheat will <i>not</i> -grow in this country. The stalk will run up rank, but the ear will not -fill with plump kernels. Last December, while I was there, flour sold -on the river Brazos, for ten dollars a barrel; and in the interior,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> -it sold for fourteen. Corn grows well, and is quite a sure crop when -planted early—about the first of February. I saw a very good crop -which had been planted in June.</p> - -<p>I found one man, who, with the aid of a boy ten years old, raised and -gathered fifteen hundred bushels of corn. Perhaps I am severely taxing -the credulity of my readers; but if there be any reliance on human -testimony, the fact is as I have stated. And when it is considered that -the ground is only ploughed, a small portion, if any, hoed at all, -and then it gets ripe early, and he can gather it at his leisure—the -statement may not appear at all incredible. Tobacco will grow, but it -has too thin a leaf to be valuable.</p> - -<p>But it is emphatically a cotton country. It produces a larger quantity -to the acre, and of a better quality than any portion of the United -States—not excepting the bottom lands on Red River. This is my belief -from an examination of the growing crop and gathered cotton. And I -found this to be an admitted fact by the most experienced cotton -growers.</p> - -<p>The following is as perfect a list of the forest trees, shrubs, vines, -&c., as I can make—to wit:—Red, black, white, willow, post and live -oaks; pine, cedar, cotton-wood, mulberry, hickory, ash, elm, cypress, -box-wood, elder, dog-wood, walnut, pecan, moscheto—a species of -locust, holly, haws, hackberry, magnolia, chincopin, wild peach, suple -jack,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> cane-brake, palmetto, various kinds of grape vines, creeper, -rushes, Spanish-moss, prairie grass, and a great variety of flowers. -The live oak, magnolia, holly, pine and cedar are evergreens.</p> - -<p>The Spanish-moss, so profusely hanging on all the trees near streams -of water, gives them an antique and venerable appearance. It is of a -silver grey color; and, if trees may be compared with men, they appear -like the long grey bearded sages of the antedeluvian world. When the -tree dies, the moss soon withers, and becomes dry. I used to amuse -myself by setting fire to the dry moss in the night. It burnt like -tinder, and would sometimes throw a grand column of flame a hundred and -fifty feet into the air, and brilliantly illuminate the scene, a great -distance around.</p> - -<p>Of fruit trees, I saw only the peach, the fig and the orange trees; -excepting one small cluster of apple trees. I think it is too warm -throughout the year for the apple tree to produce much fruit; but the -others will become abundant.</p> - -<p>As to the health of the country, the fact seems to be, that in all the -low country, and on the streams of water, the inhabitants are more or -less afflicted with the fever and ague. It much resembles Illinois in -this particular, as well as in many others. In other situations, I -believe it is as healthy as any portion of the United States.</p> - -<p>The climate is fine; the air, generally clear and salubrious. It is -neither so hot in the summer, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> so cold in the winter, as it is -in New-England. The country lies between the Gulf of Mexico and the -snow-capped Cordillera mountains, so that it is fanned by a refreshing -breeze, which ever way the wind may blow. Sometimes, in winter, -the northwest wind sweeps over the plain, strong and keen; and the -thin-clad southerner sensibly feels its effects upon his system; and -I was informed, instances had been known of their being chilled to -death, when obliged to encamp out in the open air without a fire. It is -sometimes cold enough to make thin ice; but, generally, it is mild and -pleasant all winter. The hottest days of summer, are not as warm and -oppressive, as we find them at the North. Individuals originally from -Maine and New-Hampshire, said they had found no night so warm, that it -was disagreeable to sleep under a woollen blanket.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</a></p> - - -<p>The rivers are navigable to some extent, whether great or small. The -following are the names of the principal, to wit:—Sabine, Ayish -Bayou, Atoyac, Angelina, Neches, Trinity, St. Jacinta, Buffalo Bayou, -Navasota, Brazos, Bernard, Canebrake, Colora<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>do, Navedad, La Baca, -Guadalupe, San Antonio, Aransaso, Neuces and Rio Grande or Rio del -Norte. The streams are all muddy and unpleasant, until you reach the -Colorado; this, and those to the south are, generally, clear and -beautiful. About ten miles from the mouth of the Colorado, a raft two -miles in extent, obstructs the navigation; when that is removed, boats -may go some distance into the country. The Brazos is navigable at high -water, to the falls, about two hundred and fifty miles from its mouth. -A steamboat is now running upon it, as high up as St. Felipe, over a -hundred miles.</p> - -<p>The Sabine, Neches and Trinity are respectively three hundred and -fifty, three hundred, and four hundred and ten miles in length, and are -navigable some distance into the country for a considerable portion of -the year. The San Bernard is navigable sixty miles. It has about four -feet of water on the bar at its mouth. The Colorado rises in the high -prairies near the mountains, pursues quite a direct course six hundred -miles and falls into Metagorda Bay. Above the raft, which is situated -ten or twelve miles above its mouth, it is navigable three hundred -miles. It has as strong a current as that of the Mississippi.</p> - -<p>But the Rio del Norte is much the largest and longest river in this -region. It rises high up among the mountains, and is estimated to be -seventeen hundred miles in length. For two thirds of its course it -runs nearly south; it then changes to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> southeast, and empties into -the Gulf of Mexico, near the southern boundary of Texas. It has been -ascended by a steamboat two hundred miles to Loredo; and it is stated -by those acquainted with the stream, that it is navigable five hundred -miles further.</p> - -<p>Texas has a seacoast of three hundred and fifty miles; and in a -commercial point of view is favorably situated. Its many navigable -streams afford great facilities for transporting the rich products of -its luxuriant soil to the United States and the rest of the world. It -will shortly be settled, its rich lands will become valuable, and it -will soon be a great and powerful state.</p> - -<p>Mill seats are not plenty. Although the streams run with a lively -current, yet there are not many falls suitable for mills; especially -in the lower part of the territory. On the sides of the streams, are -occasionally found ledges of limestone; but none of any kind are -seen scattered over the country.—The prairies are free from rocks, -brambles, bushes, and every thing except grass. They look like a finely -cultivated old field, well set in grass; sometimes flat, sometimes -rolling, but invariably having a surface entirely smooth and unbroken. -A carriage can run any where over them. Clay is found all over the -country, of an excellent quality for brick. In some places, coal and -iron ore are said to have been discovered.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span></p> - -<p>Such are the situation and resources of the country. Let us now look, -for a moment, at the inhabitants, and see how they are improved. The -Spaniards are not an agricultural people. They are more fond of raising -stock, than cultivating the land. They are also a very social people, -and fond of society. They are seldom found on farms alone, and at a -distance from neighbors. They formed some small villages in Texas, and -left the remainder of the country entirely unsettled. Some ten years -ago, the system of grants commenced; allowing an individual, under -certain regulations, to introduce and colonize foreigners. There are -now thirteen of these Grants, including a large portion of Texas, -to wit: Zavala, Burnet and Vehlein—now formed into the Galveston -Bay company—Austin's, Milam's, Robertson's, Cameron's, Dewitt's, De -Leon's, Felisola's, McMullen's and McGloin's, Powers' and Beal's. -On all these Grants, more or less settlements have been made, and -therefore, the population is scattered over an extent of country out -of all proportion to their numbers. The large tract granted to each -individual, tends to the same result. In riding through regions called -settled, a person may not find a house in thirty or forty miles; but -generally from ten to twenty. I believe there are from forty to fifty -thousand inhabitants in Texas; and a large proportion of them are -Americans. A person may travel all day; and day after day, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> find -Americans only. He can hardly make himself believe that he is not still -in the United States.</p> - -<p>The exports of Texas are cotton, live-stock and peltries. The cotton -and peltries are sent either by Natchitoches, or by shipping through -the Gulf of Mexico, to New-Orleans. The live-stock—cattle, horses and -mules, are driven by land across the country to Natchez or New-Orleans. -The cost of driving is trifling. Plenty of grass is found all the way -for the stock; and the drivers carry their provisions, shoot game, &c. -and camp down near wood and water by the side of a fire, and cook their -meals.</p> - -<p>In this manner, a fellow traveller and myself camped out two or three -nights. It was quite a novelty to me to sleep in the open air; but the -people here think nothing of it. The wolves made rather too much noise, -for me to sleep quietly. One night, they awaked me out of a sound -sleep, by their discordant yells; I jumped up, dashed a club or two at -them, and off they went over the prairies. Our provisions were what -they sought, I presume, and not us.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants are, many of them, what our northern people would call -rather indolent. Occasionally, I found a good farm, large plantation -and fine herds of cattle, and all the comforts of life within their -dwellings; but more generally, the traveller only finds the log house, -built in an open, rude manner, with only one room, where he and the -family lodge together; and perhaps only corn-bread, meat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> and sweet -potatoes to eat. I called at some places where they had twenty or -thirty cows, and could get neither butter, cheese, or milk. They let -the calves run with the cows, and seldom milk them at all. I did not -find butter at half of the places where I called; and obtained cheese -only once in Texas. At only three places I found wheat bread.</p> - -<p>Although the climate is suitable to the production of Indian corn, yet -it is not cultivated to any extent. The reason is, stock is raised with -less trouble, and cotton is thought to be a more profitable crop. There -is hardly enough corn raised for the consumption of the inhabitants; -it, therefore, bears a high price. At St. Felipe, it was a dollar a -bushel; and at Velasco on the mouth of the Brazos river, I saw a bushel -of shelled corn sold for two dollars!</p> - -<p>Thus it is; man seems disinclined to "till the ground," and by "the -sweat of his face," to obtain his bread. It often happens, where -the earth produces in abundance with little labor, that little is -indifferently performed, so that all the comforts and conveniences of -life are less enjoyed, than in more sterile soils, and unpropitious -climes. Man will "'mid flowing vineyards die of thirst." Where nature -has done almost all, and scattered her favors without stint, man will -not stretch forth his hand, and gather her rich bounties. It is not -universally so. There are many exceptions to this in Texas. In many -instances, the comforts of life are enjoyed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> there to perfection. Man -may not be censured, for not performing severe bodily labor, if he can -well provide for himself and those dependent upon him, without it; but -life could not have been given, to be spent in listless idleness. A -vast field of usefulness is open to the active man; and he may do much -good in his day and generation, other than toil for gain.</p> - -<p>But another inducement is held out to the emigrant to settle in Texas, -besides the beauty of the country and productiveness of the soil. It -is the cheapness of the land. This is no small consideration. A man -with a family obtains a Spanish league of land, amounting to four -thousand four hundred and twenty-eight English acres, by paying the -expense of surveying it, office fees, &c. These expenses amount to one -hundred and eleven dollars, with the addition of thirty dollars to the -government. So that a man with a family has four thousand four hundred -and twenty-eight acres of land for the small sum of one hundred and -forty-one dollars. He must make application to an officer, called an -empressario, and obtain his consent; which is given in the form of a -certificate, stating the name of the family and the quantity of land -allowed. This certificate is presented to another officer, called a -commissioner, who orders a survey; and when completed, makes a deed -from the government to the emigrant. The only condition is, that the -land shall be settled upon, within a limited time. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> emigrant may -make his own selection out of any lands, not previously granted. A -single man obtains one quarter of that quantity, with the privilege of -having three quarters more, when he is married. And provision is made, -that a foreigner, marrying a Mexican woman, may have a league and one -third. These terms are, certainly, very liberal. A man here obtains -good land, at a cheaper rate, than in any other part of the world.</p> - -<p>But the government have lately adopted another method of disposing of -their land. A regular land law has been enacted, and various offices -have been established for the sale of all the vacant land in the -province. A person desirous of purchasing public land, goes to the land -office in the district where the land is situated, files a petition -for a sale, and obtains an order for a survey. This land is laid off -into what is called <i>labors</i> of one hundred and seventy-seven acres -each, and an individual may purchase as many labors as he pleases, up -to two hundred and seventy-five, which is about equal to fifty thousand -English acres. The minimum price is fixed at ten dollars per labor, -the purchaser paying the expense of surveying in addition. One third -of the purchase money is payable at the time of sale; the remainder in -two equal annual instalments; and the new settlers are exempt from the -payment of taxes for the term of ten years.</p> - -<p>But Texas has some evils, which will be deemed greater or less, -according to the particular section of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> the country the emigrant may -happen to come from. But still, they ought in fairness to be stated, -that all may judge for themselves. And in the first place there are -three kinds of venomous snakes—the great rattlesnake, the moccason -snake, and the prairie rattlesnake. The large rattlesnake is not very -plenty, and is seldom seen far out in the open prairie. A gentleman who -had lived in the country ten years told me he had killed only two in -the time. The moccason snake, deemed as poisonous as the rattlesnake, -seems to be more plenty; but they are not found except in or near wet, -marshy land. A gentleman told me, he had a small marsh near his house -which seemed to be a haunt for them, as occasionally he found some near -it, and in his door yard. He set half a dozen of his servants to cut -down the weeds, and dig a ditch to drain off the water; and in one day -they killed <i>forty-three</i> moccason snakes; and he pleasantly added, it -was not a very good snake day neither. Perhaps this will be set down as -another "snake story;" but my authority is Mr. Elisha Roberts, living -on the main road, five miles north of St. Augustine; a very respectable -man as I was informed. The prairie rattlesnake is a small one, about a -foot in length, similar to that of Illinois. I saw only one in all my -wanderings through the country. There are other snakes, not venomous, -such as the coach-whip snake, the large black snake, which is here -called the "chicken snake," because it sometimes robs hen's nests; the -glass snake,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> which if you strike it, will break in a number of places, -and some others. Then, there is the tarantula, a large spider; and the -stinging lizard, a species of the scorpion, of a reddish color, and -about two inches long. The bite of the tarantula and stinging lizard -is, in pain and effect, similar to the sting of a bee. There is a weed -here, growing all over the country, which is a certain cure for the -bite of all these venomous reptiles.</p> - -<p>The alligator is found in the rivers of Texas. I saw three, one large -one; the other two, small ones. They sometimes catch hogs, as they go -down to the water to drink. They will attack a man in the water. A man -was seized by one on Little river, while I was in the country, who was -swimming across; but he was beaten off by a person near him, on a raft.</p> - -<p>Of the animals, there are many—the panther, wolf, wildcat, tiger cat, -bear, Mexican hog, antelope, &c. The wolves are the most numerous, and -are quite bold and mischievous. I frequently saw them in the day time, -and often heard their discordant howl in the night.</p> - -<p>One day, as I was riding along alone in the open woods, a panther came -out of a small thicket, into the path before me! I knew that retreat -would be dangerous; and, therefore, I boldly sung out and pushed -forward towards him. He was not disposed to give battle, but leaped -off at once into the woods. I was a good deal startled at this sudden<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> -appearance of such a powerful, uncaged beast of the forest; but as he -appeared to be the most frightened of the two, I ought to be content. -The panther is an animal of the size and color of a full grown lioness, -but too cowardly to attack his prey in the open field. Like the Indian, -he lies in ambush, or sits perched on the branch of a tree, and seizes -his victim unawares. Even a small dog has been known to chase him into -his favorite retreat on a tree. The bears, generally, take to the dense -forest of trees and cane-brake. They catch the full grown hogs, and the -wolves take the pigs.</p> - -<p>Flies, of various kinds, are found here; and are more troublesome to -animals in the warm summer months, than at the north. I saw large -sores, caused by them, on cattle, dogs and hogs. An application of -mercury is sometimes found necessary to cure them. There is also a wood -tick, resembling that on sheep, which fastens itself on animals, but -does not appear to do any essential injury.</p> - -<p>But last, although not least, in the list of evils, is the ever active -moscheto. In the flat country, bordering on the sea and bays, they -are indeed dreadful to a northern man. When I was at the mouth of -the Brazos, towards the last of December, whether on the beach, in -the house, on board the vessel, day and night without cessation, the -moschetoes were excessively annoying. Give me a general assortment -of alligators, snakes and lizards, rather than subject me to the -eternal buzz, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> stinging bite of the ever busy moscheto. Other -animals may be successfully combatted and subdued; but to fight the -moscheto is like "beating the air;" give a blow in front and he is -in the rear; brush the rear, and he is in front—and so on all day -long. And when you have done, you have only excessively fatigued and -perplexed yourself, and left him the uninjured master of the field. The -only chance to get rid of such a keen tormentor as this, is to hang -yourself, or run away. In the high rolling country, there are less -flies and no moschetoes.</p> - -<p>There are few remnants of tribes of Indians in the settled region of -Texas. They are generally said to be harmless and inoffensive; doing -nothing worse than stealing a hog or so, in a neighborly way; so that -they may not be entirely forgotten. A woman where I stopped one night, -told me that about twenty Indians encamped at the spring near her -house; came to the house for meal, and she gave them all she could -spare. In the morning, after they were gone, she found they had robbed -the yard of all the melons, and taken the fattest shoat she had.</p> - -<p>While I was in the country a man was shot at and wounded by an Indian, -near Jones' ferry on the Colorado river. As he was riding along -alone over the prairie, he saw a number of Indians by the side of a -wood, who beckoned for him to approach. When he had come quite near, -happening to cast<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> his eyes towards the wood, he saw an Indian, partly -concealed behind a tree, with a gun drawn up in the act of firing. He -had only time to throw himself back on his horse, and the ball made a -slight flesh wound on his breast. He wheeled, put spurs to his horse -and escaped. Whether these were Indians belonging to the settled or -unsettled regions of Texas, could not be ascertained.</p> - -<p>Between the settlements and the Rocky Mountains, are large tribes of -Indians; and detached parties from them, sometimes come down to the -border plantations, and steal a few horses. They consider the Spaniards -lawful game; but do not care about fighting the Americans. They say, -the Americans are a brave people and fight most desperately; and from -them, they obtain their chief supplies.</p> - -<p>Perhaps my readers may think this rather a formidable array of animals -and reptiles. It may appear more so on paper, and at a distance, than -in the region where they are found. People of Mississippi, Alabama and -Florida, would find themselves at home among them; but to a northern -man they might be found somewhat disagreeable at first.—They would, -however, soon become so much accustomed to them, that in a short time -they would hardly regard them at all. The inhabitants here, from -whatever quarter they may have come, do not think they form any serious -objection to settling in the country.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span></p> - -<p>While I remained in Texas, I found no serious trouble from the animals, -reptiles or insects, except that general enemy to repose, the moscheto, -and that only in the lowlands. On the open prairies, there are but -few noxious animals, except the wolves. This is owing a good deal, -undoubtedly, to the fire running over them twice a year. As the country -becomes more settled, they will be less numerous; and some of them will -become entirely extinct.</p> - -<p>The water, generally, is very good for a southern country. I found many -fine springs of pure soft water in various parts of Texas; and in the -rolling prairies, good water is obtained by digging. The only objection -to it is in its temperature. To me, it was universally too warm to -be agreeable. "A cup of <i>cold</i> water" is nowhere to be found in the -territory; and to a northern man, in a warm day, it is so refreshing, -reviving, invigorating—so readily slakes the thirst, and cools the -body, it is almost indispensable to his comfort and enjoyment. Warm -water is the common drink of the inhabitants. In the towns, I found -the various kinds of spirits and wine; but in the country, I found -no spirits, (except very seldom, whiskey) wine, beer, or cider; but -only water—<i>warm water</i>. It must be admitted, that the people are -very temperate, <i>if not to drink the ardent</i> be a sure indication of -temperance.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a></p> - - -<p>There are no large towns in Texas. Bexar, or as it is commonly called, -St. Antonio, is the capital, and contains about thirty-five hundred -inhabitants—the other villages are small, varying from one hundred -to one thousand souls. St. Antonio, like all the Spanish towns, -is composed of houses built of logs and mud, and makes a squalid -appearance. It is situated about twenty miles east of San Antonio -river. The principal towns are, Nacogdoches, St. Augustine; and on -Galveston Bay, Harrisburg and Lynchburg: on the Brazos—Velasco, -Brazoria, Columbia, St. Felipe, and a new town in Robinson's colony -at the falls: Cole's Settlement, fifteen miles west of the Brazos: on -the Colorado—Metagorda, Montezuma, Electra, Bastrap, or Mina: on the -Gaudalupe—Gonsales: on the San Antonio—Goliad, (formerly Bahia,) and -<span class="smcap">Bexar</span>: in Powell's Grant—St. Patrick: on the Rio Grande, or -Rio del Norte—Refugio, Metamoras, Reinosa, Camargo, Mier, Revilla, -Laredo, Presidio and the city of Doloros.</p> - -<p>A new town is laid out at the falls on the Brazos river in Robinson's -colony, about two hundred and fifty miles from its mouth. This is the -place where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> the land office is kept for this colony, and will become -quite a village. But the country is not now settled enough to make or -support large towns. It must be the work of time. Although men may -lay out a town, and commence building it, yet it cannot prematurely -be forced into existence. It must have a back settlement to support -it. The merchant and mechanic cannot sell, unless there are some -inhabitants to buy.</p> - -<p>The Spaniards, more than one hundred and fifty years ago, built -some small towns in Texas, the principal of which are St. Antonio, -Nacogdoches and La Bahia. These became something of villages; but for -twenty years their population has continually diminished; and the -country at large does not contain half the Spanish inhabitants that it -did at that time. They, like the Indians, dwindle away, or flee before -the settlements of the Americans.</p> - -<p>The Mexican government had three garrisons of soldiers stationed in -Texas—one at Nacogdoches, one on Galveston Bay, and one at Velasco, -at the mouth of the Brazos. Some of the commanders of these garrisons, -attempted to exercise despotic powers, in seizing Americans who had -become obnoxious to them, and putting them in prison. About two years -ago, their conduct became so oppressive, that the citizens rose <i>en -masse</i>, killed some of the soldiers, and took the remainder prisoners. -The Mexican government then recalled all the officers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> and soldiers, -and there has not been a Mexican garrison in Texas since.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of the country pay no taxes at all. It is said that -the lands are exempt from taxation for ten years to come. All articles -imported for the private use of the emigrant, are free of duty; and in -fact, a great portion of the merchandize pays none. When I left the -Brazos river, there was no custom house officer upon it; and a number -of vessel loads of goods were landed, without being required to pay any -duty.</p> - -<p>Almost all kinds of goods afford a good profit and a ready sale in -Texas; especially domestic cottons, boots, shoes, hats and ready made -clothing. Coffee is used in large quantities, but I did not find -hardly a cup of tea in the whole country. It is not a good place for -mechanics. Manufactured articles of all kinds are brought from the -north, and sold cheaper than they can be made here; and the country -is too thinly settled, and the raw material is too scarce, to give -much employment to artisans of what is called custom work, such as -shoemakers, tailors, &c. Blacksmiths, however, are an exception to -this. They are indispensable, although there are now but few of them. -The price charged for shoeing a horse is from three to four dollars.</p> - -<p>Texas is connected with Cohahuila, and both form one province of the -Mexican Confederacy. But lately, they have been made into separate -judicial districts; each having its own courts and offi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span>cers. In -Texas their proceedings in court and the records, are in the English -language; but land titles are still written in the Spanish. The laws -are liberal; they guarantee the freedom of religious opinion and -a trial by jury. Courts are held in St. Felipe, Nacogdoches, St. -Augustine, Bastrap, &c. The government is elective and republican. I -attended an election of sheriff and other county officers. They vote -<i>viva voce</i>, as the practice is in many of our southern States. To be -an inhabitant of the country, is all the qualification necessary to -become a voter.</p> - -<p>Physicians are occasionally found in the country, and there are a small -number of lawyers located in the principal towns. There are but few -preachers of the gospel, and I believe no meeting houses, except some -decayed Roman Catholic churches.</p> - -<p>The country needs more professional men. It opens a fine field for -enterprising men in any profession. The wheels of government in Texas -move quietly along. The storms which agitate and distract the city -of Mexico and its vicinity, spend their force before they reach that -province. I think, the government forms no serious objection to forming -a settlement in the country.</p> - -<p>But in a new and thinly settled country, the laws, however wise and -good, cannot always be enforced. Magistrates and executive officers -are few, and courts often at a distance. The new settlers, therefore, -sometimes take the law into their own hands;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> and although they may not -inflict the same punishment the law enjoins, I believe they generally -do substantial justice. As an instance of the kind, I will state a -case that happened on the bank of the Colorado river. A man settled -there, who proved to be a notorious thief. He stole cattle, horses, -hogs, or any thing he could lay his hands on. His neighbors resolved to -endure his depredations no longer, and gave him notice to depart from -that section of the country, or abide the consequences. After waiting -awhile, and learning that he intended to remain, some half dozen of his -neighbors went to his house in the evening, took him to a tree, and -gave him thirty-nine lashes, well laid on. They then told him that the -punishment should be repeated every week, as long as he remained in the -neighborhood. Before a week came round, he left that section of the -country, and has not been heard of since.</p> - -<p>In the interior of the country, there is a salt lake, from which a -load of fine salt may be obtained in a short time; and appears to be -inexhaustible. A small stream runs from this to the Brazos river, and -sometimes renders its waters too brackish for use.</p> - -<p>By the laws, slavery is not allowed in the province; but this law -is evaded by binding the negroes by indenture for a term of years. -You will, therefore, find negro servants, more or less, all over the -country; but more, on the lowlands, to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span>wards the bays and seacoast. -Large cotton plantations, in this section of the country, are -cultivated by negroes; and here also are found some good houses and -rich farmers.</p> - -<p>Texas lies between the twenty-seventh and thirty-fourth degrees of -north latitude; and between sixteen degrees thirty minutes, and -twenty-seven degrees west longitude from Washington; and contains -probably about one hundred and fifty thousand square miles—as large -as all New-England and the State of New-York. It is bounded, east by -the Sabine river and a line drawn due north from its head waters to Red -River—south, by the Gulf of Mexico—west, by the river Neuces, Rio del -Norte, and the Cordillera mountains—north, by the Red River, until it -hits its eastern boundary.</p> - -<p>More than half of the country is prairie. The margin of the streams -and the moist highlands are covered with a fine growth of timber. All -the seacoast and on the bays, there is a strip of low, level land, -extending seventy miles into the country. The prairies are here very -rich, but too level to be pleasant or healthy. The remainder of Texas -is high, dry and gently undulating; but not mountainous. Between the -rivers Sabine and Trinity, are extensive, gently undulating, sandy -plains, generally covered with a good growth of pitch pine; but -occasionally covered with post-oaks, hickory, &c. Among these, are -interspersed small prairies of good land; sometimes having a black<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> -soil, but generally of a reddish cast, and occasionally of a deep red. -From the river Trinity to the western line of the State, are high, -rolling, beautiful prairies of all sizes and shapes imaginable. So -beautiful are these prairies, that the imagination cannot paint a more -delightful scene. Cultivation, however nicely performed, will rather -mar, than add to their beauty. They are surrounded with a dense forest -of trees; sometimes two or three miles in depth, and sometimes only of -a few yards. On the highlands, or elevated plains, are frequently found -oak-openings, similar to those of Michigan and Illinois. Texas, with -the exception of the pine plains, may with truth be said to possess a -deep, rich soil of black marl.</p> - -<p>That portion of the country lying between the Colorado river and -Louisiana, is subject to powerful rains in the fall and spring; but as -you go southward and westward towards the city of Mexico, the rains -become less frequent, and not so abundant. About two months in summer, -it is generally quite dry; sometimes, so severe is the drought that -vegetation withers, and the grass on the prairies becomes dry. To the -southward of Texas, the Spaniards irrigate their lands to make them -produce a more abundant crop. The planting season is so early, (from -the first to the middle of February,) that all the crops, except cotton -and sugar cane, come to maturity before the dry weather commences; and -these get such a vigor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>ous start in this luxuriant soil, that they are -seldom materially injured by the drought.</p> - -<p>The roads are all in a state of nature; yet so smooth is the surface, -and so gently undulating is the face of the country, that in dry -weather, better roads are not found any where. A person, however, often -meets with moist bottom land, and streams difficult to pass. In the wet -season, travelling is more disagreeable and difficult; and sometimes -impracticable, on account of the swollen, rapid streams of water.</p> - -<p>Although carriages run without difficulty all over the country, yet -the inhabitants have not yet introduced pleasure carriages. The mode -of travelling is on horseback; but women and children often go in a -baggage wagon drawn by oxen. Baggage wagons are quite numerous, but I -found only one pleasure carriage in the whole province, and that was a -gig-wagon.</p> - -<p>Emigrants are continually pouring into Texas, both by sea and by land, -and from every section of the United States. The southerners generally -choose the lowlands bordering on the bays and Gulf; but the northern -people prefer the high lands in the interior. If emigration continues, -it will soon contain a very respectable population.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a></p> - - -<p>I found some of the emigrants disappointed, discontented and unhappy; -and I met one man on his return to the land from whence he came. He -was from Tennessee, had moved into Texas with his family and a small -portion of his goods in a wagon; but they all did not like the country -so well as the one they had left, and unanimously agreed to return. It -was a tedious and expensive journey, but not altogether useless. It -will teach them more highly to prize their own country, neighborhood -and privileges, and induce them to spend the remainder of their days -with contented minds.</p> - -<p>Before a man with a family makes up his mind to emigrate to a new, -unsettled and distant country, he ought well to consider of the -subject. Emigration, like matrimony, ought to be fully considered; as -a bad move in this particular, is attended by many evils, and cannot -well be remedied. In the first place, it is the best way to "let well -enough alone." If an individual be well settled in life, has profitable -employment, well supports himself and family and gains a little every -year, dwells in an agreeable neighborhood, has the privilege of sending -his chil<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>dren to school, and of attending public worship, why should -he wish to remove? Why should he wish to go into the wilderness, -endure the fatigues of a long journey, and the many hardships and -deprivations, necessarily attendant upon a removal to the most favored -spot in the new world? This life is too short and uncertain to be spent -in making doubtful experiments. It is wise, to live where we can be the -most useful and happy ourselves, and where we have the fairest prospect -of rendering others so, with whom we are connected.</p> - -<p>But the young man who has no lucrative employment, and the married man -who has to labor hard to gain a scanty subsistence for himself and -family, would do well to go to the rich prairies of the south or west. -He ought to be careful not to be too much elated with the prospect -before him, for disappointment, fatigue and suffering most assuredly -await him. It is not "a light thing" to travel with a family of goods -two or three thousand miles.—He ought to accustom his mind to dwell -upon hardship and suffering, before he commences his journey. Young -says—</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 10em;"> -"Our only lesson is to learn to suffer;<br /> -And he who knows not that, was born for nothing."<br /> -</p> - -<p>But on his arrival at his location in the new world, however fine, rich -and elegant the situation may be, he will feel disappointed and sad. -This is perfectly natural; and although some may have too much pride to -acknowledge it, yet they all have a strange<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>ness of feeling pervading -their breasts, that is sometimes painful in the extreme. Perhaps -the emigrant had never before travelled far from the smoke of his -father's dwelling, and had spent his life hitherto in the neighborhood -where he was born, and where his early and innocent attachments were -formed. He now finds himself in a new country, far away from the -ever-to-be-remembered scenes of his childhood, and he looks abroad upon -the world around him, in sadness of heart; for it is a world, however -beautiful it may be, that is a stranger to him, and with which he has -no sympathy. Not to feel, under such circumstances as these, indicates -something more or less than man. And this strange, lonely feeling is -hardly softened down and mitigated, by the well known fact, that his -new location is far superior to the one he has left. The inhabitants -of Nantucket are proverbially attached to that island of sand, and -are discontented and unhappy in the most fertile towns and beautiful -villages on the continent.</p> - -<p>The emigrant ought to think of all these things, before he leaves -his native village. But when he has become located in the new world, -it will not do to shrink back and despond. He must brace himself to -the task before him, and cheer up his family, who in fact need some -cheering, for exchanging a well built house and pleasant associates, -for the rude log hut and wild beasts of the forests. They will all -soon become acquainted with the new world and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> form new associations. -A well built house will shortly take the place of the rude cabin, and -emigrants will settle near them, to whom they will become attached. -The rich fields will produce an abundant harvest, and large herds of -cattle will be seen feeding on the luxuriant grass. He will soon gain a -competency, live at ease, and become contented and happy.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants have a strong belief that Texas will at some future -day become one of the United States; but I think this, extremely -doubtful. It is more probable, that it will in time become an -independent sovereignty. It is now one of the Mexican States, and -the seat of the general government is in the city of Mexico. The -confederacy is composed of quite a number of States, and Texas sends -its due proportion of representatives to the general Congress, to -make laws for the whole. These States have never been well agreed in -their form of government, or in the men for rulers. Revolutions, and -counter-revolutions, have been the order of the day at the seat of the -general government; but Texas is too much settled by Americans, and is -too far removed from these intestine commotions to be much affected by -them.</p> - -<p>Col. Stephen F. Austin, to whom the first colony was granted, and -who has been the indefatigable pioneer in the settlement of Texas, -has generally been its representative in the general government. In -the spring of 1834, he was at the seat of gov<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>ernment, but so great -were the divisions that little business could be done. He considered -the country in a state of revolution, and wrote home to a friend of -his, that he believed Texas had better take care of itself and form a -government of its own. This friend proved treacherous, enclosed his -letter to the President, and sent it to the city of Mexico. It was -received just after Col. Austin had left the city on his return home. -He was pursued, arrested, brought back and put in prison. He was for -awhile kept in close confinement; and then, let out on his giving bonds -to confine himself to the limits of the city. When I was in Texas, it -was believed, he would shortly be liberated, and was daily expected -home; but I have since learned, that he was not liberated until some -months after my return.</p> - -<p>It requires not the gift of prophecy to tell what the end of these -things will be. Texas will become tired of belonging to such a -discordant confederacy; and when their population shall have -sufficiently increased to insure success, will throw off the yoke, and -form a government of their own. But at all events, it will soon be -disjoined from Cohahuila, establish its own State government, and elect -its own officers. The seat of government will probably be San Felipe, -on the Brazos river.</p> - -<p>In some publications the people of Texas have been slandered. They -have been called a set of robbers and murderers, screening themselves -from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> justice, by fleeing from their own country and coming to this. It -would be strange, indeed, if there were not such instances; but whoever -travels over the country, will find them as pleasant, obliging and kind -as any people in the United States. In the towns, you generally find a -billiard room; and near it, a race-course. At these resorts, are found -the favorite amusements of the inhabitants. I went all through the -country, unarmed and unharmed; nor did I at any time feel in jeopardy -of life or limb. Their most prominent fault is, in being too fond of -pastime and hunting, to the neglect of tilling the land, building -decent houses, and procuring the conveniences of life.</p> - -<p>The most healthy and pleasant portions of Texas are in the regions of -Nacogdoches; in the rolling country between the Brazos and Colorado; -and southward and westward of the latter river—in Beal's Grant, near -the Rio del Norte; and high up on the Brazos and its branches, in -Robinson's colony. But neither Galveston Bay, nor the flat country all -along the seacoast, is the place for a northern man. It is too much -infested with alligators, moccason snakes and moschetoes. It is more -suitable for southern planters, to be cultivated by the blacks.</p> - -<p>But whoever emigrates with his family to Texas, let him, at all events, -carry with him bread stuffs to last six months; for there is no wheat -raised in the country, and only a small crop of corn for the sup<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>ply -of its own inhabitants. Of course, bread stuffs are always dear, and -sometimes unattainable at any price. Cattle and hogs are plenty, and -wild game abundant, so that he could supply himself with meat in this -country.</p> - -<p>The emigrant had better buy his cattle and horses here; for those -brought from a more northern climate do not thrive well, and often -die. A good serviceable horse may be bought for, from twenty to thirty -dollars; a cow with a calf by her side, for ten dollars; and a yoke of -oxen for about thirty dollars. The land is ploughed by oxen, horses and -mules; but journeys for the transportation of merchandize are performed -by oxen.</p> - -<p>There is a mail running from the city of Mexico, through St. Felipe, -as far as Nacogdoches; but as the United States mail goes no farther -than Fort Jessup, the two mails do not meet each other, by seventy-five -miles. There is, therefore, no mail connection between the United -States and Texas. This is a serious inconvenience, and must shortly be -remedied. The only chance to send a letter either way, is by a private -conveyance. This is generally done by the captains of vessels.</p> - -<p>The currency is silver and gold coin, bills of the United States Bank -and those of New Orleans.—Copper coins are not found in circulation at -the south and west. Texas has no bank of its own.</p> - -<p>Thus much for my general view of Texas. I have endeavored to give a -true account of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> country as it appeared to me. Perhaps it may not -be altogether acceptable to landholders and speculators. Be that as it -may, I believe I have performed an acceptable service to the emigrant, -by giving him a fair account of the country; and one that he will find -to be a true one, in all its essential particulars, on his arrival. -Live stock, cotton and sugar are and will be the great staples of the -country—grain will be of secondary consideration.</p> - -<p>What, then, is the conclusion of the whole matter? Is Texas a desirable -place for a northern man? My opinion is, that if a northern man would -locate himself in the highlands of the country, he would enjoy health -as well as at the north; procure all the necessaries and conveniences -of life much easier; and might, in time, become independently rich. I -do think he would find the climate more pleasant, and more congenial to -his feelings, than a northern one; and his life probably attended by -more enjoyments.</p> - -<p>I have been frequently asked, what particular spot in Texas is the most -desirable for an emigrant to settle in? My answer is, I cannot tell. -And whoever travels over the country, will be as much puzzled to tell -as I am. The fact is, there are hundreds of places offering about the -same inducements—all pleasant, healthy and agreeable. Among them, it -is quite immaterial what particular one the emigrant may select. I saw -an emigrant who had been in the country almost a year, and he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> had -been riding over it the chief part of the time, and still was unable -to make a selection. He said there were so many fine situations, so -nearly alike, that he found it difficult to give a decided preference -to any particular one. When he will be able to make up his mind, and -decide the question, I know not. The last time I saw him, he was still -on the wing; and for aught I know, he may keep in motion as long as the -far-famed Boston traveller, <i>Peter Rugg</i>, or the <i>Flying Dutchman</i>, and -never be able to find a spot of ground for a permanent abode! But this -emigrant is not to be "sneezed at." Questions of far less importance -have agitated the world; and who knows, but that the destiny of the -country, as well as his own, eminently depends upon his particular -location!</p> - -<p>Again—I have been enquired of, what can a man do to make property in -Texas? I answer, he can go into trade in some of the villages, and -make large profits upon his goods. He can go on to a plantation, and -raise cotton, sugar, corn, or stock—any or all of these are easily -raised, and find a ready market. This is what he <i>may</i> do; but what -he <i>will</i> do, is altogether uncertain. He may become as indolent and -inattentive to business, as many of the inhabitants of the country. He -may spend his time in hunting, at the race-course, and at the billiard -table. <i>Here</i>, at the north, the great anxiety is, how we shall -live—wherewithal we shall be clothed, and how we can turn a penny -to "get<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> gain;" <i>there</i>, the great concern is, how they shall employ -themselves to kill time. <i>Here</i>, we struggle hard to live; <i>there</i>, -they strive hard not to live. <i>Here</i>, we live in spite of nature; -<i>there</i>, nature makes them live in spite of themselves. Could an -emigrant know what course he would take on settling in Texas, he could -then tell, whether it would be better to go or remain. I have spread -the country open before him; let him judge for himself. And fortunate -is he, who gives heed to the experience of others, and makes a wise -choice.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</a></p> - - -<p>I concluded to return to the north by water. I procured a conveyance -from the interior to St. Felipe on horseback; and here I learnt that -there was a schooner sixty miles down the river at Columbia, bound to -New-Orleans, which would sail in a few days. I could find no conveyance -to Columbia, either by land or water. I found a wagon going down for -merchandize, on which I put my baggage; and in company with another -gentleman, whom I found in the same predicament with myself, started -off on foot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span></p> - -<p>St. Felipe is the head quarters of Austin's colony. It is a small -village, on a high prairie, immediately on the south bank of the Brazos -river, nearly one hundred miles from the sea. It stands on the first -high land you come to on the river; and at this spot the high rolling -country commences. Its situation is beautiful and commanding. It has -two taverns, four or five stores, a court house, and perhaps twenty -dwelling houses; but there are only two or three good looking buildings -in the place. The opposite side of the river is low, and covered with a -heavy growth of timber.</p> - -<p>St. Felipe, like most of the southern villages, is not without its -billiard room; and its usual, I might say invariable accompaniment, the -grog shop.—Billiards is a pleasant and manly game enough; and good -exercise for a sedentary man; and if indulged in only for amusement, -is as innocent as any recreation whatever. It is a game much played in -the middle and southern portions of the United States; and men of the -first respectability are found at the table. But in this section of the -country, it cannot be recommended as a safe place for recreation. It is -generally used as a mere gambling apparatus; and a person meets with a -class of society not the most civil, sober and peaceable.</p> - -<p>Not long since, a young man played with an old gambler, until he became -tired, and started off. The gambler came out at the door, and called -him<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> back; but finding he could not induce him to return, out of mere -wantonness and sport, commenced throwing brickbats at him. The young -man was a cripple, and could neither run, nor successfully contend -with his athletic opponent. He bore it as long as he could, then drew -a pistol and shot him through the body. He fell dead upon the spot, -without uttering a word. He had been an overbearing, troublesome -fellow, and his death was the cause of joy rather than sorrow.</p> - -<p>One night, while I was at St. Felipe, two young men returned from a -bloody affray, thirty miles down the river. Early the next morning, two -other men, fully armed, entered the town in pursuit, and paraded the -streets in hostile array. I enquired into the history of the case, and -found the following particulars.</p> - -<p>Sometime previous, one of the young men paid his addresses to a young -lady, and was engaged to be married. He went to the north on some -mercantile business; and during his absence, another young man by the -name of Thompson, commenced his particular attentions to the young -lady; and the match was strongly advocated by his father. On his return -from the north, he and another young man who had married a sister of -the lady in question, payed a visit to her father's—stayed all night, -and started in the forenoon, to return to St. Felipe. One of them -was in a light gig-wagon, the other on horseback. They had proceeded -but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> a few miles when they heard the clattering of horses' feet, at -full speed, behind them. On looking round, they saw young Thompson's -father, and a doctor of the neighborhood, in close pursuit, with -pistols in hand. The young men were also armed; and immediately shots -were exchanged by both parties. But such was the hurry and agitation -of the moment, that none took effect. They all dismounted at once, -and at it they went, in a desperate contest for life and death. The -doctor, not liking this part of the game, or not feeling exactly brave -on the occasion, was contented to stand aloof, and see the battle -rage. Old Thompson was a powerful man, and about an equal match for -both of his opponents. He laid about him like a giant; and sometimes -had one grounded, and then the other; and apparently, would shortly -gain the victory over them both. At length, he knocked one down, and -seemed determined to despatch him at once. He seized him by the throat, -and called upon the doctor for a knife. The other young man saw at a -glance the critical state of the contest—he jumped to the wagon, took -out a loaded gun, just in time to stop the doctor, by his threats, -from handing the knife, then took deliberate aim at Thompson, and shot -him through the body. Thompson fell back, said he was a dead man, and -expired in a few minutes. The doctor ran to his horse, mounted and fled -with all convenient speed. The young men, having been rather roughly -handled,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> were considerably bruised, although not seriously injured. -They picked up the deadly weapons of the battle-field, as trophies of -victory, and made the best of their way to St. Felipe.</p> - -<p>In a short time, the doctor, young Thompson and some others, came to -the battle-ground, and carried home the dead body; and without waiting -to attend the funeral, young Thompson and the doctor started after the -young men, to avenge his death. It caused no small stir at St. Felipe, -when they arrived, and paraded the streets fully armed, and breathing -out threatenings. The young men took to a store, and with arms in their -hands, awaited the result. The civil authority, however, interfered. -The young men gave themselves up to the custody of the law, and -Thompson and the doctor were persuaded to go home, and abide a trial by -jury.</p> - -<p>It is no pleasure to me to give an account of such lawless battles; -but as a faithful chronicler of events I could not pass them over in -silence. Texas, however, is not more the theatre of them, than many -places in the United States. If the value of an article is enhanced in -proportion to its scarcity, it is more excusable to fight for a lady -here, than elsewhere; for, according to the best estimate I could make, -there are ten men to one woman in the country. And could the surplus -maiden population of New-England be induced to emigrate to Texas, they -would meet with a cordial reception;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> and it might prove, not only -advantageous to themselves, but highly beneficial to the country.</p> - -<p>In two miles from the town, we came to the flat, low country. It was, -generally, muddy and very disagreeable and fatiguing to travel over. -It was all an open prairie country, except a small skirt of timber -immediately on the banks of the little streams; and almost a dead -level, except in one place, twelve miles from Columbia. Here, a hundred -acres or more rise thirty or forty feet above the general level of the -country, and by way of distinction, is called "the mound." Near the -streams, the ground was a little elevated; and at such places, we found -houses, and some small improvements, probably, in eight or ten miles of -each other. We saw a great many herds of deer, and flocks of wild geese -and ducks.</p> - -<p>We were almost four days in performing the route; and were excessively -fatigued, when we entered the small village of Columbia. This is a -new village, having two or three stores, a tavern, and half a dozen -dwelling houses. It is situated on a level prairie, two miles from the -river, and ten above Brazoria. There is a small village immediately on -the bank of the river, called Bell's Landing; and the space between the -two, is low bottom land, heavily covered with timber.</p> - -<p>At this landing, vessels come up and unload their merchandize, destined -for the upper country. It has a tavern, two stores, a large warehouse, -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> three or four dwelling houses. Here I was informed, the schooner -had dropped down the stream. I stopped over night, and rather than -walk, I obtained a log canoe, and a man to paddle me down to Brazoria. -The tide sets up a little further than Bell's Landing, and our boat, -having the advantage of its ebb and the current also, floated us down -in two hours.</p> - -<p>Brazoria is quite a large village. I found some very good buildings, -public houses, stores, and as usual, a billiard room. A newspaper is -published here, called the Brazoria Gazette; and I believe is the -only one printed in all Texas. The situation of the town is low and -unpleasant; and subject to the fever and ague. I found a steamboat -here, going up the river; but the vessel had gone further down; so we -started in the canoe after her; and rowing fifteen miles we found her -by the side of the river, taking in bales of cotton. I was glad to get -on board the vessel, and be relieved at once from the tediousness and -fatigue of pursuit, and from the uncertainty of obtaining a passage to -the United States.</p> - -<p>The vessel remained here, until the next day, when we sailed with a -light breeze down the stream. The river is very crooked, so that it is -twice as far from Brazoria to its mouth by water, as it is by land. -We had to tie the vessel up to a tree at night, as it was too dark to -proceed. The next day in the afternoon, we hauled up again, on account -of a head<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> wind. The mate stept ashore to spend the time in hunting. -The river is lined with timber on both sides, about a mile in width; -and then, the country is generally an open, level prairie. The mate -became entirely bewildered and lost; could not find his way back to -the vessel; and was obliged to camp out for the night. In the morning, -the captain sent scouts in various directions after him; but they all -returned without success. The captain concluded he must have gone -towards the mouth of the river; so he hoisted sail and started on. -Nearly noon, the mate made his appearance on the river bank, nearly -opposite the vessel; and the captain sent his boat for him. He was -quite exhausted.—He had wandered about almost the whole time, and -could neither find a house, road or river. He said he never had been -used to hunting; but he could not conceive why people were so fond of -it, as it was much more pain than pleasure to him. 'Every one to his -trade.' A hunter would have found as little pleasure on the ocean, as -the sailor did on the land. This hunting expedition afforded no little -merriment to the captain and crew, at his expense, during the voyage.</p> - -<p>The timber on the river banks became less, as we descended; and -for five miles above the mouth, there is none at all. A small town -called Velasco is situated on the sandy beach, at the river's -mouth—containing one public house, two stores, four or five dwelling -houses, and the ruins of an old Spanish<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> fort. We stayed two days here, -waiting for a fair wind to cross the bar. I frequently amused myself -by walking for miles on the sandy beach, and picking up some of the -pretty shells among the millions that lay scattered along. It is as -fine a walk as a pensive maiden, in contemplative mood, could desire. -On the one hand, is the ever-toiling ocean, whose waves break upon -the sand bars, and in giddy globes of foam, lash the shore, and spend -their force beneath your feet: on the other, a low, sandy bluff, and -then an extended lawn, stretching far away into the interior, and its -utmost verge skirted with stately forest trees; and the pathway itself, -smooth, hard and level, and bedecked with countless beautiful shells of -various sizes, shapes and hues.</p> - -<p>The Brazos is an unpleasant stream. Its waters are at all times muddy; -its banks are generally low and present a raw edge to the eye as you -pass along; and in many places the navigation is rendered difficult, -by reason of the many snags. At its mouth, there is a bar, generally -having not more than five or six feet of water; and the channel so -narrow that a vessel can only pass through with a fair wind. Three -vessels had been wrecked on the coast the past season. The remains of -two of them, lay in sight partly buried in the sand.</p> - -<p>In the spring, the waters of all the streams in Texas are high, and -bring down from the upper country, large quantities of timber. The -mouth of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> the Brazos, and a long distance on the seashore, is lined -with large masses of trees; and from this source the inhabitants of -Velasco obtain their fuel.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</a></p> - - -<p>One morning, near the last of December, the captain announced a fair -wind. He weighed anchor, hoisted sail, and with a stiff breeze pushed -out to sea. The vessel only drew five feet water, yet she touched three -or four times on the bar; but did no apparent damage. I stood upon the -deck, until the land, trees and houses faded away in the distance.</p> - -<p>Texas, like a beautiful damsel, has many charms and attractions, but -is not entirely faultless. Indeed, there is no such place as a perfect -elysium on earth. And those who have formed their opinion of the -country from some of the many late publications concerning it, will -feel some disappointment on their arrival. But its many beauties will -hide a multitude of faults; or render them light and easily borne. I -must say of Texas, as Cowper said of England, "with all its faults, -I like it still;" and although I had experienced some hardships and -inconveniences while in the country, yet its mild climate, pleasant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> -streams, and enchanting "fields of living green," I left at last with -serious regret.</p> - -<p>The fall of the year is the best time to move into Texas; or into any -of the western States. There are four good reasons to give for this -preference: 1st. It is then better travelling; both on account of the -dryness of the roads, and the mild temperature of the weather—neither -too hot or too cold. 2d. It is more healthy on the road—not so much -danger of contracting disease on the way; and to be there at the -opening of the spring, and become accustomed to the climate and warm -weather by degrees, there will be a fairer prospect of continued -health. 3d. It is the time of the year when provisions are the most -plenty and cheapest; an emigrant can, therefore, the more readily -supply himself on the road, and after his arrival. 4th. It is the -shortest time a person can be in the country, and raise a crop the -ensuing season. To arrive in October, or the first of November, he will -have plenty of time to build a log house, split out rails and fence in -a field by the coming spring, so as to raise a crop.—Were he to go in -the spring, he would be obliged to support himself and family a whole -year before he could get a crop into the ground.</p> - -<p>To go from the north to Texas, the better way is to take a passage -on board a vessel bound to Galveston Bay, the river Brazos, or the -Colorado. But if a vessel cannot readily be found, going direct to -Texas, a passage may be taken to New-Orleans; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> from thence, a -person can go up the Red River to Natchitoches, and across the country; -or by water through the Gulf, to almost any port on the bays and -rivers. The distance from Boston by water, is three thousand miles; -by land, it is not quite so far. From the city of New-York, vessels -frequently may be found going direct to Texas. The most convenient -places for landing in Texas are Harrisburg, on Galveston Bay; Velasco, -at the mouth of the Brazos, and Metagorda at the mouth of the Colorado. -It would be advisable to get a protection, more especially, if a person -goes by water.</p> - -<p>Speculation—ever busy, active speculation, pervades the world. -It rages with violence in Maine, disturbs the quiet villages of -New-England, keeps the western world alive, and visits the shores -of Texas. I was at a loss to know how speculation could get hold of -Texas lands; for they are only granted to the actual settler and only -one grant given to each. Human ingenuity has devised a plan. When an -emigrant arrives in the country, he is met by a land speculator, who -tells him he knows of a good location, and if he will go and settle -on it, he shall have one half of the league for nothing. The land is -entered at the land office in the emigrant's name, the speculator pays -the fees, and takes a deed of one half, from the emigrant. This is not -the worst kind of speculation in the world. It, probably, may prove -beneficial to both parties. The emigrant at least, seems to have no -cause for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> complaint. He gets twenty three hundred acres of land, as -much as he can ever cultivate, and pays nothing at all for it.</p> - -<p>We had four passengers on board; two of whom were afflicted with that -lingering disease called the fever and ague. They had resided a few -months in the lowlands of Texas, and became so severely afflicted, -they were returning to the United States for health. The other was a -physician, who had gone up the river as far as Columbia; did not like -the country and was on his return home to Tennessee. I informed him, he -had not seen the most desirable portion of the country. And such was -the fact.—But he had read some of the descriptions of the "beautiful -river Brazos and the fine country adjacent," and was thereby completely -deceived.</p> - -<p>A sea voyage is always unpleasant to me. The wind blew a strong breeze, -the waves rolled high, and made our vessel dance over them like a -feather. We all became dreadfully sea sick. It is a terrible feeling; -and those afflicted with it, probably endure as much excruciating pain -and distress, as the human system is capable of sustaining. In two -days, the wind abated in a measure, and the sea became comparatively -smooth. We crawled out upon deck, our sickness abated, and soon left us -entirely.</p> - -<p>On the fifth day, just at night, we saw the light at the southwest pass -of the Mississippi. It soon became dark, and the captain in attempting -to enter the mouth of the river, run the vessel aground near<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> the -shore. A scene here occurred, that somewhat startled us. We were in -the cabin and felt the vessel strike and heard the waves dash against -her.—We ran up on deck, and there saw the captain seated upon the -windlass, writhing in agony, and groaning like one in despair! The idea -struck us in a moment, that the captain saw our danger to be imminent, -the vessel would dash in pieces, and we must all perish. But we were -immediately relieved from our apprehensions. In the darkness of the -night, and hurry of the moment, the captain had been thrown across the -pump, and severely injured; and it was from actual pain of body, rather -than anguish of mind that made him groan so bitterly. We did not, -however, feel entirely at ease. We were exposed to the open sea; and if -the wind should rise, and blow hard on shore, the vessel must be dashed -to pieces, and we escape the best way we could.</p> - -<p>But we were highly favored. The wind died away and the sea became quite -calm. We retired to our berths, and slept quietly. In the morning, -we carried out an anchor; at flood tide, hauled the vessel off; a -steamboat took us in tow, and at the dinner hour, we were gallantly -gliding up the river. So change the scenes of life.</p> - -<p>The Mississippi steam tow-boats have engines of immense power. Our -boat had six vessels in tow, and it carried us along at the rate of -four miles an hour, against the strong current of the river. From the -mouth of the Mississippi to New-Orleans is one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> hundred and fifteen -miles, and we performed the trip in about twenty-eight hours. The price -charged for towing up the river is a dollar a ton; and the amount the -boat received from all the vessels was about five hundred dollars. The -vessels are towed down stream for half price and sometimes less.</p> - -<p>Fifteen miles from the sea, the Mississippi divides itself into three -channels, each having a lighthouse near the mouth; but the southwest -pass is the only one in which ships can enter when loaded. The river -continually pushes its banks further out to sea. They are formed of mud -and logs, and soon become covered with a rank growth of rushes.</p> - -<p>The banks of the river are low, and too wet for cultivation, for fifty -miles from the sea. Soon after passing fort Jackson, which is about -forty miles up the river, we came to sugar plantations on both sides, -and these continued to the city of New-Orleans. On many of these large -plantations we saw elegant houses, surrounded by orange trees, loaded -with fruit. In the rear, sugar houses, and steam mills for grinding -the cane, and long rows of neat looking negro houses; and large stacks -of rice standing near them. The planters were all busily engaged in -making sugar; and we saw armies of negroes in the fields, cutting and -transporting the cane to the mills. January had already commenced, yet -there had been no frost to destroy vegetation, and the cane looked as -green as in midsummer. The crop of sugar was unusually large, and of an -excellent quality.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span></p> - -<p>The sugar cane, in size, stalk and leaf very much resembles the -southern corn. It has, however, no spindles at the top like a corn -stalk, but terminates in a tuft of long leaves. It does not appear to -produce any seed in this country but the crop is annually renewed, by -planting short slips of the stalk. Its juice is sweet, pleasant and -nutritious.—The negroes are very fond of chewing the stalk; and I saw -some bundles of it at the vegetable market in New-Orleans for sale. -When the cane comes to maturity, it is cut up and ground with smooth -nuts, which in fact only compress the stalk, and force out the juice. -This is caught in a large trough underneath, and undergoes the same -process of boiling in large kettles, as the sap of a northern maple, -when made into sugar. When the boiling is completed, the sugar is put -into a large cistern full of holes in the bottom, where it remains a -number of days, that all the molasses that will, may drain out. It is -then put into hogsheads and sent to market.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</a></p> - - -<p>On the eastern bank of the Mississippi, stands the city of New-Orleans. -It is regularly laid out, chiefly built of brick, has many fine blocks -of buildings,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> large houses and handsome streets; but its site is -too low for it to appear to advantage, or to render it pleasant and -agreeable. It stretches two miles along the river bank; and for that -distance, the levee is lined with triple and quadruple rows of vessels, -steamboats and flat-boats; all having their particular location by -themselves. The trade of New-Orleans is immense. By the weekly shipping -register, it appeared there were two hundred and thirty-four vessels -in port. The levee is loaded with bales of cotton, barrels of pork -and flour, hogsheads of hams, kegs of lard and hogsheads of sugar and -molasses. It is a place of great business, bustle and blandishment; and -of dissipation, disease and death.</p> - -<p>As I passed along by its muddy pavements and putrid gutters, and saw -the many gambling houses, grog shops, oyster shops, and houses of -riot and debauchery, surely, thought I, there are many things here -exceedingly offensive, both to the physical and moral man. And when I -saw the motley throngs, hurrying on to these haunts of vice, corruption -and crime, I almost instinctively exclaimed, in the words of the -immortal bard—</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 10%;"> -"Broad is the road that leads to death,<br /> -And thousands walk together there!" -</p> - -<p>But here, the career of the debauchee is short.—The poisonous -atmosphere soon withers and wastes away his polluted life's blood. -Death follows close upon the heels of crime; and one need stand but a -short time at the charnel house, to behold cartloads<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> of his victims, -hurried on, "unwept, unhonored and unsung," to their last home!</p> - -<p>Life seems to be valued by its possessor, in proportion to the strength -of the tenure by which it is held. When danger becomes imminent, and -life's termination apparently near, instead of making the most of its -short duration, man improvidently throws it away, as of no value; or -suppresses all apprehension of the future, by rushing headlong into -the wildest excesses of dissipation and crime. This is sometimes -exemplified in the sailor. When perils thicken around and death stares -him in the face, instead of summoning all his powers into action, -and bravely contending to the last, he attempts to shut his eyes -upon impending ruin, by stupifying the body, and ignobly surrenders -life without a struggle. On no other principle, can I account for -the excesses of New-Orleans. In its best estate, it is emphatically -a place of disease and death. Its atmosphere is pestiferous. It is -felt so to be, and so considered by its citizens. One might suppose, -amid the ravages of disease and death, a man would think seriously and -live soberly. That if his days were to be very few, he would make them -all count, and tell to the greatest advantage. But the inhabitants of -New-Orleans, instead of attempting to deprive death of his power, are -enlisted on his side—they put poisoned arrows in his quiver, and add -new terrors to his name! The sanctions of law and religion are set at -nought, the Sabbath profaned, and they give<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> themselves up to hilarity, -dissipation and crime. Is this denied? The fact is too apparent and -notorious, successfully to be concealed or denied. Could the many -victims of debauchery and crime speak, they might "unfold a tale" that -would cause "the hair of the flesh to stand up," and make the boldest -turn pale. Shall I be asked to particularize? Take the Criminal Code, -and there read its long list of enormities and crimes.</p> - -<p>Censures are painful, and comparisons are deemed invidious; but I must -say New-Orleans does not show that order, neatness and sobriety, found -in other large cities of the Union. Murders, robberies, thefts and -riots, are too common hardly to elicit a passing notice. Man here seems -to have become reckless of life. It is taken and given for "trifles -light as air," with an indifference truly astonishing. The police is -inefficient or shamefully negligent.—The authorities of the city -appear to stand aloof, and see the populace physically and morally -wallowing in the mire. It does appear to me, that if all in authority, -and all the virtuous portion of the citizens would brace themselves to -the work, the city might be greatly improved in health and in morals. -Let the strong arm of the law be put forth fearlessly—let the streets -be cleared of mud and filth, and the gutters of their putrid water—let -the police be active and take into custody the disorderly knaves and -vagabonds—let gambling houses be put down, and Sunday theatres and -circuses be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> suppressed, and New-Orleans would wear a different aspect. -Then might its streets be walked without fear of life or limb; and the -great wealth flowing in, by canal, railroad and river, be fully enjoyed.</p> - -<p>This may be thought by some to be an exaggerated account of the city. -For the honor of our country and of human nature, I wish it might be. -But it is, indeed, too true; and whoever happens to visit it, that -places a decent value upon life, or the goods of this life, will be -glad, like me, to escape without the injury or loss of either. Although -the vessel I came in was robbed of money and wearing apparel; one of -its sailors knocked down and his money taken from him; and a companion -of mine had his pocket book cut from his pocket; yet, I fortunately -escaped. I could not, however, feel at ease among such a set of -plunderers and robbers.</p> - -<p>I am fully aware, that a large portion of the populace is made up of -all nations, tongues and languages; that their residence here is often -transient; that many enormities are incidental to all large cities of -such a mixed population; and that the many worthy citizens ought not to -be held responsible for all the crimes that may be committed, unless -they make themselves accessory to them, by indifferently looking on, -and taking no energetic measure to prevent them. But it does appear to -me they are culpably negligent in this particular.</p> - -<p>The city authorities need not sanction crime, by licensing gambling -houses and houses of ill-fame.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> By so doing, they take from themselves -the power of frowning upon crime, or of effectually punishing the -criminal; but leave him to assume an unblushing boldness in society, -not elsewhere witnessed, that is truly alarming. If crime may not be -entirely prevented, it can be rendered disgraceful; and those who have -a decent respect for the opinion of mankind, if they have none for -themselves, will then be deterred from committing evil. But as long as -New-Orleans is believed to be a place, where crimes may be committed -with impunity, and without incurring the censure or disapprobation -of its citizens; so long will it be the general haunt for the knaves -and vagabonds of the Union, and of the world.—They will centre here; -give countenance and support to each other; draw within their deadly -grasp the unsuspecting, the vicious and the idle; and, like the rolling -snow-ball, at every impulse enlarge their circle, and gain additional -force and power.</p> - -<p>It is time, high time for all the sober minded and well disposed to -awake, look about them, and see their true condition. Theirs is the -sleep of death. Like Jonah of old, they slumber amid the whirlwind -and storm. New-Orleans needs reform; and in a righteous cause, small -means may effect much. Ten men may chase a thousand. Can the result be -doubtful?</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 10%;"> -——"Our doubts are traitors<br /> -And make us lose the good we oft might win,<br /> -By fearing to attempt." -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span></p> - -<p>But I have done with the health and moral condition of New-Orleans. I -am told it has improved, and is improving. And yet there is room—an -ample field for the philanthropist to exercise the utmost stretch of -his powers, to improve the physical and moral condition of its citizens.</p> - -<p>A particular description of the city is not necessary. Its favorable -location for foreign and domestic trade, and vast resources, are well -known. One thing was new to me. It contains about half a dozen large -cotton presses, entirely occupied in compressing bales of cotton. -Those intended for a foreign market, are made to occupy one half of -their original space; so that a vessel can carry double the quantity -it otherwise might. The large number of bales shipped from this port, -makes this an extensive business. The charge for compressing is -seventy-five cents a bale. Bales designed for the northern ports, do -not undergo this operation, but are shipped as they come from the hands -of the planter.</p> - -<p>New-Orleans has three extensive markets; two for flesh, and one for -vegetables. I walked through them all, and thought the city was -abundantly supplied with provisions, and of a good quality. Although it -was January, the vegetable market was supplied with melons, green peas, -radishes, lettuce, &c. And boats frequently landed, with cart loads of -oranges, fresh from the trees. Fish are neither abundant nor of a fine -flavor.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span></p> - -<p>On the opposite side of the river, are the shipyards; but they seem -to be more occupied in repairs, than in building new vessels. Here is -a small village of a dozen houses, a grog shop and a tavern. A steam -ferry boat constantly plies across the river, and appears to have a -plenty of business.</p> - -<p>The city is connected with lake Pontchartrain, by a canal for small -vessels, and a railroad. The distance is five miles. Steamboats -regularly run from the end of the railroad, to Mobile and other -ports. New-Orleans has no wharves. It would be more convenient in -loading vessels to have them; but they cannot be built on a foundation -sufficiently firm to withstand the strong current of the Mississippi. A -few years ago a wharf was built; but it was soon undermined, and sunk -in the stream.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</a></p> - - -<p>After remaining in the city four days, I procured a passage on board a -brig bound to Boston, and sailed down the river. In about two miles, -we passed the nunnery—a pleasant looking building, surrounded by an -extensive grove of orange trees. Five miles from the city, we came to -the famous battle ground, where Gen. Jackson, and his brave<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> associates -"planted a British colony." But this is a matter of history. All the -indications of a battle now remaining, are scars of balls on one or two -trees.</p> - -<p>The large plantations, on both sides of the river, were all alive -with negroes, cutting cane and transporting it to the steam mills -to make sugar. It appears to me, that slavery sits lighter on the -negro race, than it would on any other human beings.—They are, -generally, cheerful, and appear to be inclined to make the best of -their situation. Much injustice, and many wrongs have been done to the -African race. They were torn from their homes, their friends, and their -country—carried to a distant land, and sold to hopeless, irremediable -slavery. The original kidnappers have much to answer for.</p> - -<p>But the case is now somewhat changed. Neither the masters nor -the slaves, now upon the stage, are the parties to the original -transaction. Slavery has existed for a long series of years; and the -present owners of slaves obtained possession of them either by descent, -or by purchase. They came into their possession, slaves; they did not -change their condition. The only fault, therefore, they are justly -chargeable with, is the continuance of slavery.—How far culpable -the slaveholder may be in this particular, I shall not undertake to -decide, any more than I would the degree of guilt justly chargeable to -a Mussulman, for believing Mahomet to be a true prophet.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span></p> - -<p>In all the publications and lectures which I have seen and heard upon -slavery, it appears to me, that in regard to the present owners of -slaves, the subject is not viewed in its true light. Slavery is stated -to be a great evil; and therefore, slaveholders are great criminals. -However well this may sound in logic, it does not sound well in morals. -But there is another inference drawn from the premises—that it is the -duty of the inhabitants in the non-slaveholding States, to get up a -crusade against the slaveholders. Not with swords and guns to be sure; -but to give them a bad name, render them odious in the estimation of -mankind, and to continue a general warfare upon their characters. This -is, indeed, the worst kind of warfare. Better take property or life; -for what of value has a man left when deprived of his "good name?" To -this, I shall be answered, that it is proper to call things by their -right names—a spade ought to be called a spade; and a criminal ought -to be called a criminal. So far as it applies to slavery, I have two -plain replies to make. In the first place, it is assuming too much to -call a slaveholder a criminal, under the peculiar circumstances of the -case; and secondly, if the fact were so, it is not always good policy -to bring accusations against an individual, if the object be to reform -him.</p> - -<p>It is a good maxim in law, and in religion too, that even the truth is -only to be spoken from a good motive and a justifiable end. For the -peace and well-being of society, facts are not to be stated,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> merely -to outrage the feelings of another, and to gratify the spleen of the -speaker. Now, I would respectfully ask, what good can come of picking -up all the tales concerning cruelty to slaves whether true or false, -and proclaiming them in the most imposing form upon the house top, to -a non-slaveholding audience? Every new case of cruelty is seized upon -with avidity, and exultingly paraded before the public. This looks a -little too pharisaical. 'Lord I thank thee that I am not as other men -are; nor like unto these wicked slaveholders,' seems to beam from some -men's countenances.</p> - -<p>Is it not in accordance with the christian religion, if a brother -offend, to go <i>privately to him</i>, and tell him his fault? Now, if the -object be to emancipate the slaves, <i>go to the slaveholder himself</i>, -and endeavor to satisfy <i>him</i> that slavery in itself is evil; and, on -a view of the whole ground, it is safe, practicable, and beneficial to -the slaves to be set free.—To the objection, that it would be unsafe -to go among slaveholders for such a purpose, I reply, that missionaries -are sent among the Indians of the West, the heathen of the East, and -in the islands of the sea; and can it be deemed more dangerous to -go among the slaveholding citizens of the United States, than among -them? It cannot be pretended. The fact is a man may travel through -the slaveholding States with perfect safety, provided he carry the -deportment of a gentleman, and discuss the subject<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> of slavery, as all -such subjects ought to be, in a decent and respectful manner.</p> - -<p>Of this, I cannot doubt, from my own experience in the matter. During -a residence of three years in a slaveholding State, and in my various -excursions among the planters, I uniformly found hospitable and kind -treatment; and a readiness to discuss the subject of slavery with the -same freedom that they would any other.</p> - -<p>It would be a very good plan for our lecturers on slavery, to travel -through the southern States, and see for themselves the true condition -of the master and slave. Their censures of their southern brethren -might be softened down a little; and they would sometimes feel more -inclined to pity than upbraid. They would find the emancipation of -slaves not new, or unthought of, by the people of the South; that it is -a subject, which has engaged their anxious thoughts, and caused much -private and public discussion. The southerners are more willing to -emancipate their slaves, than our northern people generally suppose; -but the great question is, how can it with safety be done? Some of our -northern people would decide this off hand. Only say "<i>be free</i>," and -it is done. But the slaveholder believes, there are many things to be -taken into consideration—self preservation, good order of society and -the condition of the emancipated slave, are all to be regarded and -weighed, before freedom is granted.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span></p> - -<p>But I believe the slaveholders do injustice to the character of the -negroes in one particular. If they were all emancipated to-day, I -believe there would be no attempts made to murder the whites, as has -been supposed. They are naturally a friendly, confiding race—neither -ungrateful, nor insensible to kind treatment. When they have a good -master, and there are many such, they become very much attached to him; -and would unhesitatingly, risk their lives in his defence.</p> - -<p>I have been in the fields, where hundreds of slaves were at work, and -conversed with them.—They appeared to be well clothed and fed, and had -an easy task. I thought them to be as lively, gay and happy as any set -of beings on earth.</p> - -<p>They are very fond of music, and display a good deal of ingenuity, in -adapting songs to their various kinds of work and recreations. Many a -night, I have raised my window, sat down and listened for hours, to the -melody of their voices, in singing their harvest songs, around a pile -of corn.</p> - -<p>But the danger lies, in turning loose upon the world, a race of beings, -without houses, lands, or any kind of property; who are ignorant, gay -and thoughtless, and entirely unused to provide for themselves. How -preposterous the idea! What rational man would think of it? They must -beg, steal, plunder, or starve. If the slaves be emancipated, it must -be the work of time; and provision must be made, temporarily at least, -for their support.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span></p> - -<p>But it is urged, that holding in bondage a human being, is wrong, and -therefore, he ought to be set at liberty <i>immediately</i>. A person cannot -do right, or repent of evil, too soon. As this applies to the slave, it -may be false reasoning from just premises. Although it might be wrong -for the eagle to catch the mole, and bear him aloft into the air, yet -would it be right, then to let him go, when he knew the fall would dash -him to pieces? The setting at liberty in such a case, would only be -inevitable destruction. It would therefore be right, and not <i>wrong</i>, -to retain possession, until liberty could be granted in safety.</p> - -<p>That many individuals are justly chargeable with cruelty to their -slaves, there can be no doubt.—Their condition is better in the old, -than in the new States. But it appeared to me, that many of the acts of -cruelty were negligently suffered by the master to be done, rather than -inflicted by him. They are too apt to entrust their servants in the -hands of ignorant overseers, who punish without judgment or mercy.</p> - -<p>A planter informed me, he was riding along by his field one day, and -observing the overseer was preparing to flog a negro, he rode up to -enquire into the cause of the punishment. He was informed the negro -would not work, alleging he was sick.—He asked the overseer if he -had ascertained that the negro was <i>not</i> sick. He replied no; for he -presumed it was only a pretence to get rid of work. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> went up to the -negro, examined his pulse and tongue, and found he had a high fever. He -told the negro to take a horse from the plough, and ride home, and he -would come directly and see he was properly attended to. He then turned -to the overseer, and told him he was not a suitable man to have the -care of human beings—and discharged him on the spot.</p> - -<p>In Texas, I saw a negro chained in a baggage wagon, for the purpose -of carrying him home to his master. He told me he ran away from him, -three months previous, and had all that time lived in the woods, and -obtained his food by hunting. He said his master was a cruel man, -flogged him unmercifully, made him work hard, and did not feed or -clothe him well. At night, an axe <i>happened</i> to be left in the wagon, -and he liberated himself and escaped. On enquiry, I found the negro's -story to be true.—The master was all he had represented him to be, and -his conduct was generally reprobated by the people. As I was walking -on the sea shore, I again came across the negro. He recognized me at -once; came to me, and begged that I would take him with me; and said he -would willingly labor for me all the days of his life; but he could not -return to his master. This I could not do; but was obliged to leave the -negro to his fate.</p> - -<p>There are many hardships and cruelties incidental to a state of -slavery; but the cruel master is as much despised and reprobated in his -own immediate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> neighborhood, as elsewhere. It is now unpopular every -where, to ill-treat the slave. His condition has generally improved; -and the yoke is often made to sit so light, that it is neither felt nor -thought of. But still slavery in its mildest form is attended with many -moral, as well as physical evils; is wrong in principle, and contrary -to the spirit of our free institutions: and I earnestly hope, that this -dark spot on Freedom's bright banner may soon be blotted out forever.</p> - -<p>But to effect such a great object as this, will require the wisdom and -aid of the North and the South combined. Let "the North give up and -the South keep not back;" let them amicably take counsel together; and -devise some plan in which the rights, interests and feelings of all -parties are nicely balanced and duly regarded.</p> - -<p>But I see no way in which slavery can be abolished without the aid of -the slaveholders. This kind of property is guaranteed to them by the -supreme law of the land, and to give it up, must be a voluntary act. It -appears to me, the course things are now taking at the North, instead -of winning the aid of the South, tends directly to brace them against -emancipation. It appears to the South, as an officious interference in -their affairs, in the most offensive form.</p> - -<p>What would we think, if the South should employ a scavenger, to pick up -all the private and public acts of cruelty of the northern people; such -as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> the whipping of the boy by Arnold, the starving to death of another -by Fernald, &c. &c. &c.; and then, set up a press, expressly to blazon -forth these cruelties; and hire itinerant lecturers to go about and -proclaim to a southern audience, in the highest strains of impassioned -eloquence, the wickedness, corruptions and enormities of the citizens -of the North! And say, they "had waited forty years" for the northern -people to reform themselves; which was time enough, and they would -wait no longer. They, therefore, were justified in holding them up to -the scorn and reproach of all human kind! When the North knew, and all -the world knew, they were no better than they should be at home; that -they had work of reform enough near at hand; and that they had no legal -right to interfere, and could have no legal action upon the subject. -And although the avowed object was the reform of the northern people, -yet they kept aloof from them, and hurled their poisoned arrows at a -distance, alleging that they might in their patriotic zeal, so much -arouse their indignation, that it would be unsafe to go near them. What -would northern people say to all this! Should we say, go on, brethren! -God speed! Or should we say, this is mean, cowardly business—empty -boasting—gasconade! These people may not, indeed, be guilty of this -particular thing of which they accuse us; and that is the very reason -why they choose this subject for accusation—why they walk so proudly -erect—ring all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> the changes and make the most of it. It is to triumph -over us, and build up themselves on our ruins. There is in truth, a -worse kind than negro slavery—when a man becomes a slave to his own -unhallowed, vindictive passions.</p> - -<p>Much injustice has been done the southern people. Those who -have travelled and dwelt among them, bear testimony to their -high-mindedness, kindness and hospitality. They scorn to do an act of -meanness; or to enter upon the broad field of scandal. And although -their strong sensibility may sometimes lead them into error, yet in all -the virtues which ennoble man, they might not suffer in a comparison -with the North. If we choose to bring railing accusations against -them; they may not descend to recriminate but leave us the undisputed -occupants of the ground we have chosen. And we may have the sore -mortification at last to find, we have uttered anathemas in vain; and -brought nothing to any desirable result—that we have toiled hard, and -effected nothing, but our own humiliation and disgrace.</p> - -<p>But I must leave the subject of negro slavery.—Perhaps I have dwelt -too long upon it already to comport with the design of this book. It is -a great and an important subject; and to do it justice would require -a volume. It is my solemn conviction however, that for the northern -people to effect any thing, towards the freedom of the African race, -much prudence must be exercised, and conciliatory<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> measures adopted; so -as to enlist the undivided energies of the South in the great work of -emancipation.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII.</a></p> - - -<p>The river Mississippi, which imparts a name and character to the -great valley of the West, deserves something more than a mere passing -notice.—When the fertility and extent of the region through which it -passes, are taken into consideration, together with the magnitude of -itself and its numerous branches, it way well be pronounced the noblest -river on the face of the globe.</p> - -<p>Contrary to the general analogy of other large rivers, it directs its -course from north to south. It rises in about the forty-eighth degree -of north latitude, in a region having the aspect of a vast marshy -valley. Its commencement is in many streams, issuing principally from -wild rice lakes, and proceeds but a short distance before it becomes -a large river. Sometimes, it moves silently and imperceptibly along, -over a wide and muddy channel—at others, it glides briskly onward, -over a sandy bottom, its waters almost as transparent as air—and again -it becomes compressed to a narrow channel between high and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> hoary -limestone cliffs, and it foams and roars, as it violently lashes the -projecting rocks, and struggles through.</p> - -<p>The falls of St. Anthony, following the meanders of the stream, are -three hundred miles from its source. At this place, the river is about -half a mile wide, and falls in a perpendicular and unbroken sheet, -between seventeen and eighteen feet.—Above the mouth of the Missouri, -it receives many large tributaries, the most considerable of which are -the Ouisconsin and Illinois from the east, and the Des Moines, from the -west.</p> - -<p>A little below thirty nine degrees, comes in the mighty Missouri -from the west, which is a longer stream, and carries more water than -the Mississippi itself. This is the largest tributary stream in the -world; and from the facts, that it has a longer course, carries more -water than the Mississippi, and gives its own peculiar character to -the stream below their junction, many have supposed it ought to have -given its name to the united stream and to the valley. In opposition -to this claim, it may be stated, that the valley of the Missouri, in -the grand scale of conformation, appears to be secondary to that of the -Mississippi—it has not the general direction of that river, but joins -it nearly at right angles—the Mississippi valley is wider than that -of the Missouri, and the river is broader, and the direction of the -valley and river is the same above and below the junction. From these -considerations, it appears to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> me, that the Mississippi rightfully -gives its name to the united stream, and to the great valley, from its -source to the sea.</p> - -<p>The Missouri rises in the Rocky Mountains, nearly in the same parallel -with the Mississippi. It is formed by three branches, which unite near -the base of the principal ranges of mountains, which severally bear the -names of Jefferson, Gallatin and Madison. The head waters of some of -these, are so near to those of the Columbia on the other side of the -mountains, that a person may drink of the waters of each, in travelling -not more than a mile. After the junction of these three streams, the -river continues on a foaming mountain torrent. It then spreads into a -broader stream, and comparatively of a gentler current, and is full of -islands.</p> - -<p>The river, then, passes through what are called "The Gates of the -Rocky Mountains." The river appears to have torn for itself a passage -through the mountain. For the distance of six miles, perpendicular -cliffs of dark colored rock, rise twelve hundred feet above the stream -which washes their base! The chasm is not more than three hundred feet -wide, and the deep, foaming waters rush through, with the speed of a -race-horse. In no situation in life, does man so keenly feel his own -imbecility and nothingness, as when viewing such terrible results of -a war between the elements of nature. This is the most imposing and -grand spectacle of the kind, to be found on the globe; and in the -deep solitude of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> the wilderness, its aspect is peculiarly awful and -terrific. The mountain scenery on the Hudson near West Point; and -the passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge, sink into utter -insignificance, when compared to the rush of the Missouri, through "The -Gates of the Rocky Mountains."—The mountains here, have an aspect of -inexpressible loneliness and grandeur. Their summits are covered with -a stinted growth of pines and cedars, among which, are seen mountain -sheep, bounding along at heights apparently inaccessible.</p> - -<p>For the distance of seventeen miles, the stream then becomes almost a -continued cataract. The whole perpendicular descent in this distance, -is three hundred and sixty-two feet. The first fall is ninety-eight -feet—the second, nineteen—the third, forty-seven—and the fourth, -twenty-six. The river continues rapid, a number of miles below; it then -assumes its distinctive character—sweeps briskly along in regular -curves, by limestone bluffs, boundless prairies and dense forests, -to its junction with the Mississippi. It has a current of four miles -an hour; but is navigable for steamboats the distance of twenty-five -hundred miles.</p> - -<p>The tributaries of Missouri are many important and large rivers; but -our space will not permit a particular description of them. The most -considerable of them, are the Yellow Stone, La Platte and the Osage. -The Yellow Stone rises in the same range of mountains with the main -river, to which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> it has many points of resemblance. It enters the -Missouri from the south, eighteen hundred miles above its mouth, and is -eight hundred and fifty yards wide. It is a broad deep river, sixteen -hundred miles in length, boatable, one thousand; and at the junction, -appears to be the larger stream. Its shores are heavily timbered, -its bottoms are wide, and of the richest soil. Its entrance has been -selected by the government, as a suitable spot for a military post, and -an extensive settlement.</p> - -<p>The La Platte also rises in the Rocky mountains, enters from the south, -and, measured by its meanders, has a course of two thousand miles. It -is nearly a mile wide at its mouth; but, as its name imports, is a -shallow stream, and not navigable, except at the high floods.</p> - -<p>The Osage enters from the south and is a large and important stream of -the Missouri. It is boatable for six hundred miles, and its head waters -interlock with those of the Arkansas.</p> - -<p>The Gasconade enters from the south also, is not a large river, but is -boatable for sixty miles, and is important for having on its banks -extensive pine forests, from which St. Louis and St. Charles are -supplied with lumber.</p> - -<p>The Missouri is a longer river than the Mississippi, measured from its -highest source to the Gulf of Mexico; and although it carries less than -half the breadth of that stream, it brings down a larger quantity of -water. It is at all times turbid; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> its prodigious length of course, -impetuous current, the singular and wild character of the country -through which it runs, impart to it a natural grandeur, truly sublime.</p> - -<p>In latitude thirty-six and a half degrees, the Mississippi receives -from the east, the celebrated and beautiful Ohio. This is, by far, the -largest eastern tributary of the Mississippi; and at the junction, -and a hundred miles above, it is as wide as the parent stream. If -the Mississippi rolls along its sweeping and angry waters, in more -majesty—the Ohio far exceeds it in beauty, and in its calm, unbroken -course. No river in the world moves along the same distance, in such -an uniform, smooth and peaceful current. The river is formed by the -junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela at Pittsburgh. The Ohio, -at this place, is about six hundred yards wide, and it immediately -assumes a broad and beautiful aspect which continues in its whole -course, to the Mississippi. Beautiful and romantic streams come in, at -nearly equal distances—its bottoms are of an extraordinary depth and -fertility—and the configuration on its banks, has all that softness, -grandeur and variety, still changing and recurring in such endless -combinations, as to render a voyage down it, at all times pleasant and -delightful. From Pittsburgh to the Mississippi, the distance is eleven -hundred and fifty miles; and between these points, are more than a -hundred islands; some of which, are of exquisite beauty, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> afford -most pleasant situations for cottages and farms.</p> - -<p>The valley of the Ohio is deep, varying from two to ten miles; and is -bounded in the whole distance by bluffs, sometimes towering sublimely -from the river bank; at others, receding two or three miles from them. -Beyond these, are a singular line of hills, more or less precipitous, -which are familiarly called the "Ohio hills." The bottoms of the Ohio -are heavily timbered, and there are no where on its banks the slightest -indications of prairie.</p> - -<p>It would be difficult to decide at what season of the year, the Ohio -has the most interesting and beautiful appearance—in the spring, -when its high floods sweep along with irresistible power, and the -red-bud and other early blossoms enliven its banks—or in autumn, -when it passes quietly along, showing its broad and clean sand bars, -and its pebbly bottom, through waters transparent as air—and when -the withering leaves of the forest are painted in golden and scarlet -colors along its shores. It is at all times, an interesting river, and -probably, no other stream in the world can vie with it, both in utility -and beauty.</p> - -<p>Below the Ohio, the most important tributaries of the Mississippi, are -White river, Arkansas and Red Rivers—all entering the stream from the -west. White river rises in the Black mountains, which separate its -waters from those of the Arkansas; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> after traversing a distance of -twelve hundred miles, enters the Mississippi by a mouth, nearly four -hundred yards wide. The Arkansas next to the Missouri, the largest -tributary from the west, is twenty-five hundred miles in length, and -is five hundred yards wide at its mouth. Its waters are at all times -turbid, and when the river is full, are of a dark flame color.</p> - -<p>Eighty miles below Natchez, comes in Red River; and although it is not -generally so wide as the Arkansas, yet it has as long a course, and -probably, carries as much water. Its waters are always turbid, and of -a deeper red than those of the Arkansas. After receiving Red River, -the Mississippi carries its greatest volume of water. This, however, -continues but for a short distance. Three or four miles below the -mouth of Red River, and on the same side, is the first outlet of the -Mississippi. This is called Atchafalaya; and probably it carries off -as much water as the Red River brings in.—But one small river enters -the Mississippi below its first outlet. This is on the east side, and -is called the Bayou Sarah. The only eastern outlet is a short distance -below Baton Rouge. This is called Ibberville, and it passes off the -waters of the Mississippi into lake Maurepas. On the west side are -two more considerable outlets, called Bayou Plaquemine, and Bayou La -Fourche. The Mississippi, then, passes on by New-Orleans, between -unbroken banks, and discharges the remainder of its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> waters, through -four mouths, into the Gulf of Mexico.</p> - -<p>The Mississippi is navigable for steamboats to the falls of St. -Anthony—a distance of twenty-two hundred miles. These falls, although -they have not the slightest claim to be compared with the celebrated -Niagara, in sublimity and grandeur; yet they are interesting and -impressive in the solitude and loneliness of the wilderness. As the -traveller gazes at the romantic scenery around him, and listens to the -solemn roar of the falls, as it echoes along the shores of the river, -and dies away in the distant forest; a thrilling story is told him -of the love and tragical end of a young Dacota Indian woman, whose -husband had deserted her, and taken another squaw for his wife. Being a -woman of keen sensibility and unconquerable attachment, in a moment of -anguish and despair, she took her little children with her in a canoe, -and chanted her song of love and broken vows, until they were swept -over the falls, and engulfed in the waters below.—The Indians are too -fond of romance, not to make the most of such an affecting incident as -this.—They believe her spirit still hovers round the spot, and that -her fair form is seen on bright sunny mornings, pressing her babes to -her bosom, and that her voice is heard, mourning the inconstancy of her -husband, amid the roaring of the waters!</p> - -<p>Below these falls, the river swells to half a mile in width and becomes -a placid, gentle and clear<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> stream, with clean sand bars, and wide and -fertile bottoms. There is a rapid of nine miles, commencing just below -the entrance of the river Des Moines. This impedes the progress of -large steamboats, during low stages of the water. Below this rapid, the -Mississippi obtains its full width, being a mile from bank to bank; and -it carries this width to the mouth of the Missouri.</p> - -<p>The Mississippi, above the junction, is a more beautiful stream even -than the Ohio, somewhat more gentle in its current and a third wider. -At every little distance, the traveller finds a beautiful island; and -sometimes two or three, parallel to each other. Altogether, in its -alternate bluffs and prairies—the calmness and transparency of its -waters—the vigor and grandeur of the vegetation on its banks—it has -an aspect of amenity and magnificence, which does not belong in the -same extent to any other stream.</p> - -<p>The Missouri enters by a mouth not more than half a mile wide; and the -medial width of the united stream to the entrance of the Ohio, is about -three quarters of a mile, from thence to the sea the medial width is a -mile. This mighty tributary, rather diminishes than adds to its width; -but it perceptibly increases its depth; and what is to be regretted, -wholly changes its character. The Mississippi is the gentle, clear and -beautiful stream no more. It borders more on the terrible and sublime, -than the serene and beautiful, from the junction to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> its mouth. The -Mississippi flows gently onward, at the rate of not more than two miles -an hour—the turbid Missouri pours down upon it its angry flood, at -the rate of four miles an hour, and adds its own speed and peculiar -character to the united stream. The Mississippi then becomes a turbid -and furious mass of sweeping waters; having a boiling current, sliding -banks and jagged shores.</p> - -<p>A person, who merely takes a cursory view of the river, hardly forms -an adequate idea of the amount of water it carries. Were he to descend -from the falls of St. Anthony, and behold the Mississippi swallowing up -the mighty Missouri, the broad Ohio, the St. Francis, White, Arkansas, -and Red River, together with a hundred other large rivers of great -length of course and depth of waters, without apparently increasing -its size, he begins to estimate rightly the increased depth, and vast -volume of water, that must roll on, in its deep channel to the sea.</p> - -<p>In the spring floods, the usual rise of the river above the mouth of -the Missouri, is fifteen feet; from that point to the mouth of the -Ohio, it is twenty-five feet; below the Ohio, it is fifty feet; and, -sometimes, even sixty. In the region of Natchez, the flood begins -to subside. At Baton Rouge, it seldom exceeds thirty feet; and at -New-Orleans it is only twelve. This declination of the flood, towards -the mouth of the river, is caused by the many outlets which take off -much of its surplus water, and conduct it in separate channels to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> -sea. Were it not for this free egress of the Mississippi floods, the -whole country below Baton Rouge, would become too much inundated to be -habitable.</p> - -<p>Respecting the face of the country through which the river passes, it -may be remarked, that, from its source to the falls of St. Anthony, it -moves on through wild rice lakes, limestone bluffs and craggy hills; -and occasionally, through deep pine forests and beautiful prairies. For -more than a hundred miles above the mouth of the Missouri, it would be -difficult to convey a just idea of the beauty of the prairies which -skirt the stream. They strike the eye as a perfect level; covered, in -summer, with a luxuriant growth of tall grass, interwoven with a great -variety of beautiful flowers; without a tree or shrub in their whole -extent. When this deep prairie comes in to the river, on one side, -a heavy timbered bottom bounds it on the other.—From the smallest -elevation, the sweep of the bluffs, generally corresponding to the -curves of the river, are seen in the distance, mixing with the blue -arch of the sky.</p> - -<p>The medial width of the river bottoms, above the mouth of the Missouri, -is six miles; thence, to the entrance of the Ohio, it is about eight -miles; and from this point to New-Orleans, the Mississippi swamp varies -from thirty to fifty miles. The last stone bluffs, seen in descending -the river, are thirty miles above the mouth of the Ohio.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span></p> - -<p>Below the Ohio, the high banks are generally composed of a reddish -clay. The river almost invariably, keeps the nearest to the eastern -shore, leaving much the largest portion of its swamp on its west side; -but, sometimes, on the east, the river is about twenty miles from the -high bank on that side. It continually moves in a circle; alternately -sweeping to the right, and then to the left. These sections of -circles, measured from point to point, vary from six to twelve miles; -but it sometimes makes almost a complete circle. In one instance, it -sweeps round the distance of thirty miles, and comes within a mile of -completing the circle, and meeting its own channel again. Although the -stream hurries on with the speed of a giant, yet it does not seem to -be really in earnest to "go ahead." It appears to be more disposed to -gambol about, and display its power in its own ample bottom, than to -pass directly on, to its destined port. Like an overgrown and froward -child, its sportiveness is dangerous and destructive. It makes terrible -havoc with every thing with which it comes in contact. It tears up -large quantities of earth in one place, and deposites it in another. -It undermines its own bank, and lets acres of stately forest trees -slide into its deep channel—it wears away its deep bends, so as to -make its course still more and more circuitous—and again, as if it -were tired of its own sportiveness in harrassing the forest, it cuts -through the small segment of a circle remaining, leaves a long<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> bend of -still water, and its jaded shores at rest. The river, in its serpentine -course, hits the high bank at twelve different places, on the eastern -shore. These are, at the Iron banks, Chalk banks, the three Chickasaw -bluffs, Memphis, Walnut hills, Grand and Petit gulf, Natchez, Loftus -heights, and Baton Rouge. At only one place, it comes in contact with -the high bluff on the western side; and this is at the St. Francis -hills.</p> - -<p>Although the river is a mile in width, yet it is so serpentine in its -course, that a person travelling upon it, can see but a few miles -ahead. The strongest current is next the concave shore; and here also -is the deepest water. A third part of the river measured in a direct -line across it, would average eighty feet in depth, from thence it -grows more and more shoal to the other shore.</p> - -<p>In the spring flood, the Mississippi overflows the whole bottom, so -that then, it becomes a stream fifty miles in width. It shows a breadth -of a mile only, and the remainder is concealed from the eye, by the -dense forest which broods over it. The mud and sand, brought down by -the flood, deposites itself the most freely, near the river; so that -the highest part of the bottom will be next the stream. In the time of -the flood, the water barely covers the immediate shore of the river; -from thence the water becomes deeper and deeper towards the bluff -which bounds the bottom. The depth of the flood, then, may be thus -stated—the channel, one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> hundred and thirty feet—its immediate bank -barely covered with water, and next to the bluffs, which may be twenty -miles from the channel, from twelve to twenty feet in depth. When -the flood in a measure subsides, the sad havoc its waters have made -begins to appear. Huge piles of flood wood, wrecks of flat boats, and -occasionally, of animals, are thrown together in one promiscuous mass. -The stream is filled with snags and sawyers. And the destruction of its -immediate banks is still going on. The deep and solemn sound of land -slips are often heard. Acres of the stately forest are precipitated -into the river, new channels are made, many islands are formed; and -the steamboat pilot, who had become a complete master of the intricate -mazes of the channel, finds, that he must learn his lesson over again.</p> - -<p>All of the hundred rivers that form the Mississippi, at the time of -high water, are more or less turbid; but at low water some of them are -clear.—The Upper Mississippi is quite transparent, but its waters are -slightly of a blackish color. The Missouri is at all times turbid. It -is of a whitish color, resembling water mixed with fresh ashes; and it -gives its own color to the stream below its mouth. The Ohio is clear, -but its waters have the appearance of being slightly tinged with green. -The Arkansas and Red River are at all times as turbid as the Missouri, -but their waters are of a bright redish color. After the Mississippi -has received<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> these two rivers, it loses something of its whiteness, -and becomes slightly tinged with red.</p> - -<p>The Mississippi, in show of surface, will hardly compare with the St. -Lawrence; but, undoubtedly, it carries the greatest mass of water, -according to its width, of any river on the face of the globe.—From -the large quantity of earth it holds in suspension, and continually -deposites along its banks, it will always be confined within a narrow -and deep channel. Were it a clear stream, it would soon scoop out for -itself a wide channel, from bluff to bluff. In common with most of its -great tributaries, it widens as it ascends; being wider above the mouth -of the Missouri, with a tenth part of its water, than it is in the -region of New-Orleans. In the same manner, Arkansas and Red River are -wider, a thousand miles up their streams, than they are at their mouths.</p> - -<p>No thinking mind can view with indifference, the mighty Mississippi, -as it sweeps round its bends from point to point, and rolls on its -resistless wave, through dark forests, in lonely grandeur to the -sea. The hundred shores laved by its waters—the long course of its -tributaries; some of which are already the abodes of cultivation, -and others pursuing an immense course without a solitary dwelling of -civilized man—the numerous tribes of savages that now roam on their -borders—the affecting and imperishable traces of generations that are -gone, leaving no other memorials of their existence, but their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> stately -mounds, which rise at frequent intervals along the valley—the dim, -but glorious anticipations of the future—these are subjects of deep -thought and contemplation, inseparably connected with a view of this -wonderful river.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a></p> - - -<p>We were three days sailing down the river. Just at night the pilot came -aboard, took us over the bar at the southwest pass, and we put out to -sea, with a strong fair wind from the northwest. The muddy waters of -the Mississippi are seen far out to sea, even after you lose sight of -the land. There was another passenger besides myself; and the violent -rolling of the vessel soon made us dreadfully seasick. This, with me, -lasted but three days; but the other passenger was sick during the -whole voyage, and suffered incalculable pain and distress.</p> - -<p>There are many things disagreeable to a landsman in a voyage at sea. -And in the first place, the rolling of the vessel. This is always -disagreeable, but often it is so vehement that you cannot stand, walk -or sit without much caution and trouble. While food is eaten, you must -hold on to the plate with one hand, and wield the knife with the other, -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> this is often done at the imminent hazard of "marring the corners" -of the mouth. Sometimes, in spite of all exertion, a sudden lurch will -throw you off the balance, and you get a bowl of hot coffee in your -lap. And then, at night, you are tossed to and fro in the berth, so -that you cannot soundly sleep, and arise in the morning more fatigued -than when you laid down.</p> - -<p>And this motion of the vessel produces seasickness—an affliction -exceedingly grievous to be borne. I had been seasick ten or a dozen -times in my life, and this was the third time on my present tour; and I -tried all the precautionary means I had ever heard of, but without any -beneficial effect. Could any effectual remedy be discovered, it would -save a vast amount of human distress.</p> - -<p>The shoreless ocean, seen day after day, affords but a dull and barren -prospect to a landsman. The only variety seems to be, when a storm -arises; and then it puts on such a terrific form, that the sublimity -of the scene cannot be fully enjoyed. We had a severe blow off the -coast of Florida; but the shivering of sails, and the mountains of foam -dashing over our frail bark, caused fear to predominate over every -other sensation.</p> - -<p>The complete and rapid change of the scene at sea, is sometimes very -striking. We would be quietly sailing along with a gentle breeze, just -enough to fill the sails, and keep the vessel in motion on her course; -when all at once a violent squall arises,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> suddenly strikes the ship, -whizzes through the rigging, fills the sails to bursting, and drives -her rapidly on, through billows of foam. The captain stands upon the -quarter-deck, gives his orders through the speaking trumpet—the -sailors run aloft, cling to the yards and take in sail. The contrast -is indeed great. One moment, all is calm and quiet; the next, all is -uproar and confusion; and could one feel entirely at ease, it would be -a great source of amusement, during a long voyage.</p> - -<p>But a sailor's life is one of care, hardship, watchfulness and anxiety. -Our captain would walk the deck for hours, anxiously watching the whole -circle of the horizon—the appearance of the clouds and the direction -of the wind. Of a sudden, he would stop short, call all hands, order -the light sails taken in, and close-reefed those that remained; when -to my unpractised eye, there was no cause of alarm, or appearance of a -change of weather. But the result would invariably show the correctness -of his opinion. In no one instance, did he prematurely take in sail, -nor did the squall ever come and "catch him napping."</p> - -<p>The third day out, from the mouth of the river, we saw the highlands of -Cuba. On the fifth, the Sand Key lighthouse, on the Florida shore. We -saw no other land on the voyage, except a small island on the Little -Bahama Banks, until we came in full view of the village of Chatham, -fifty miles south of Boston. The wind became fair, the weather thick<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> -and rainy. The next day, twenty miles out, the pilot came aboard, and -we run safely into Boston harbor. We had been just twenty-five days -from New-Orleans—a distance of twenty-five hundred miles. We had -experienced all the varieties of a sea voyage—light winds, calms, -strong breezes and storms—and now, with no small degree of pleasure, I -again set my foot on <i>terra firma</i>.</p> - -<p>The following day, I took the stage and arrived home at Exeter; having -been absent about five months, and having travelled by land and -water the distance of eight thousand miles. I passed over the whole -route without arms, and at no time did I feel the need of any. I was -uniformly well treated; and often received kind attentions, and formed -many acquaintances whom I left with regret, and shall remember with -gratitude.</p> - -<p>The weather had generally been mild and pleasant. The greatest -indication of cold weather I found on the whole trip, was a slight -frost. On returning at once to the region of severe cold weather, I -found it exceedingly oppressive. Our northern winters are indeed long, -severe and crabbed; and were the people as crabbed as the climate, -life would become altogether intolerable. But the southern and western -climate is far more bland and mild, and much more grateful to the -feelings, than ours; and this, together with the facility of obtaining -all the necessaries and conveniences of life, induces me to believe -that a much greater amount of comfort and happiness may there be -enjoyed.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX.</a></p> - - -<p>And now, from this spot, I may be allowed to take a hasty, -retrospective glance at the great <span class="smcap">Western Country</span>. It -stretches from the Gulf of Mexico to the northern limits of the United -States; and from the Alleghany, to the Rocky mountains—a distance -of three thousand miles; showing a broad surface of earth, equal in -extent to the Atlantic ocean itself. Between these bold and primitive -barriers, a country is exhibited, every where bearing the marks of a -secondary formation. The valleys, bluffs and hills—the regular lamina -of stone, strata of marine shells,—and, indeed, all the physical -aspects of the country, wear the appearance of once having been the bed -of a vast lake, or an inland sea.</p> - -<p>From this circumstance of its recent formation, and the large -quantities of decomposed lime stone mixed with the soil, result another -attribute of this valley—its character of uncommon fertility. It is -not indeed every where alike fertile. There are here, as else where, -infinite varieties of soil, from the richest alluvions, to the most -sterile flint knobs—from the impervious cane brakes, to the sandy -pine hills. There are, too, towards the Rocky moun<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span>tains, large tracts -that have a surface of sterile sands, or covered only with a scanty -vegetation of weeds and coarse grass. But of the country in general, -the most cursory observer must have remarked, that, compared with lands -in other regions apparently of the same character, these show marks of -singular fertility. The most ordinary oak lands, will bring successive -crops of Indian corn and wheat, without manuring, and with but little -care of cultivation. The pine lands, which appear so sterile to the -eye, have in many places, produced good crops for years, without the -aid of manure.</p> - -<p>There is another remarkable trait in the soil of this valley—its -power to support vegetation under the severest drought. It is a fact -so notorious that it has become proverbial, that if there be moisture -enough to make the corn germinate and come up, there will be a good -crop, if no rain fall until harvest. The eastern emigrant witnesses -with astonishment, the steady advance of his crop to vigorous maturity, -under a pressure of drought, and a cloudless ardor of sun, that must -have parched up the fields, and destroyed vegetation at the East.</p> - -<p>The Alleghany mountains, which form the eastern boundary of this -great valley, are composed of many ridges, which run parallel to each -other with remarkable regularity. The middle ridge is generally the -most elevated, and separates the waters of the Atlantic, from those -that flow into the Mississippi. Soon after passing the summit of the -prin<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span>cipal mountains, the waters of the Ohio begin to be heard, as they -dash along over a precipitous and rocky channel, seeking a spot to -escape from the craggy hills, to the plains below.</p> - -<p>After descending the last mountain ridge towards the valley, the -country is still a succession of high hills, generally rounded -smoothly down their sides, having more or less table land on their -summits.—Those portions of Pennsylvania and Virginia, which belong -to the Mississippi Valley; the eastern parts of Ohio, Kentucky and -Tennessee, are generally hilly, and sometimes even mountainous. In -Alabama, the hills begin to subside. The features of the country too, -begin, manifestly to change. The landscape wears a different aspect. -Instead of the oaks, whitewood and sycamore, we begin to hear the -breeze among the tops of long leaved pines.—A long succession of pine -hills and fertile valleys succeed each other; the timber becoming less -and less, until we meet the extensive prairies, or savannas of Florida.</p> - -<p>Approaching the lakes, the country becomes quite level. At the northern -sections of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, near the borders of the lakes, -the surface, in some places, becomes so marshy and low, as to be -covered, in winter and spring, with water from three or four inches to -a foot in depth. The eastern part of Ohio is hilly, but the western -portion sensibly becomes more and more level. The Ohio river originally -rolled on in its whole course, through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> an unbroken forest; but as we -approach the eastern boundary of Indiana, we begin to discover the -first indications of prairie. In the western part of the State of Ohio, -small and detached prairies are only found. In Indiana, the proportion -of prairie is far greater, and in Illinois it far exceeds the timbered -land. North of the State of Illinois, pine hills, ponds, marshes, -woodland and prairie, alternate to the head waters of the Mississippi.</p> - -<p>The surface of the country west of the Mississippi, is generally much -more level than the valley east of it. There are bluffs to be sure, -often high and precipitous, near the courses of the large rivers; and -some portion of the country, near the Mississippi, is covered with -flint knobs—singular hills of a conical shape, which, with a base -of not more than a third of a mile in diameter, sometimes rise to -the height of four or five hundred feet; and are covered with coarse -gravel and flint stones. There are also, as in the country between the -St. Francis and White rivers, high hills, which might well be called -mountains. A spur of the Alleghany mountains, seems to come in to the -Mississippi at the Chickasaw bluffs, and to be continued to the west -of the river, in the St. Francis hills. But between the Mississippi -and the Rocky mountains, a distance of twenty-five hundred miles, the -general surface of the country is one vast plain, probably the largest -on the face of the globe. Except the bluffs of the rivers, and flint -knobs, the whole surface is entirely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> free from stones. On the lower -courses of the Missouri, St. Francis, White, Arkansas and Red rivers, -we find extensive bottoms of inexhaustible fertility covered with a -dense forest; and occasionally a rich prairie, teeming with vegetation. -But as we ascend these rivers, the timber becomes less and less, until, -at last, we find the prairies coming in to the river banks. As the -traveller recedes from the narrow and fertile belt on the streams, he -finds the prairies becoming more and more dry and sterile—destitute of -wood and water, and, sometimes, of all vegetation. He finds himself on -a boundless waste of prairies; stretching out before him, far beyond -the reach of vision; and here, he may wander for days, without finding -either wood or water, and whichever way he may turn his eyes, he -beholds an ocean of grass bounding the horizon. In advancing westward, -he, at length, catches a glimpse of the Rocky mountains, pencilled -like clouds on the blue arch of the sky. These mountains rise in lofty -grandeur, twelve thousand feet above the grassy plains at their base; -and some of the peaks, are supposed to be eighteen thousand feet -above the level of the sea. They appear at a distance, to present -an unbroken front, and to form an insuperable barrier between the -Mississippi valley, and the shores of the Pacific ocean. On a nearer -inspection, they are found to be, like the Alleghany mountains composed -of a number of parallel ridges; and following up the streams, as they -escape from the mountains,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> tolerable paths are found to cross them. -A late traveller crossed these mountains, by following up the river -Platte to its source; and from thence, down the stream that falls into -Lake Bueneventura, on the western side. He states that the ascent was -no where any greater than on the National road, over the Cumberland -mountains. He even asserts, that the ascent was not more than three -degrees; and that nature has provided a practical and good road, quite -down to the plains of the Columbia.</p> - -<p>These ranges of mountains cover a wide extent of country; and here, the -principal rivers that fall into the Mississippi, have their sources. -Some of these rivers wind three or four hundred miles among the -mountains, before they find a passage to the plains below. The ranges -at the sources of the Arkansas, and extending southward towards the -Gulf of Mexico, bear the name of the Masserne mountains. A single peak -of this ridge, seen at immense distances over the adjacent plains, -rising into the blue atmosphere above the region of clouds, is called -mount Pike. Near this mountain, the Colorado of the Pacific, the Rio -del Norte of the Gulf of Mexico, the Yellow Stone of the Missouri, and -the Arkansas and Red rivers of the Mississippi, have their sources. -Mount Pike must therefore, be the highest point of land of this part of -North America.</p> - -<p>The Rocky mountains are at present too little known to be accurately -and particularly described. They are hundreds of miles beyond the -limits of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> cultivation, and the usual haunts of civilized man. They -will for ages only attract the gaze and astonishment of wandering -hunters, and adventurous travellers, who will thread the mazes of their -deep gullies, as they pursue their journey to the western sea. Many of -the ranges, and peaks are black, ragged and precipitous; and around -their bases are strewn huge fragments of rock, detached by earthquakes -and the hand of time. From this iron bound and precipitous character, -they probably received the appellation of "Rocky mountains."</p> - -<p>The general surface of the Mississippi Valley may be classed under -three distinct heads—the dense forest, the barrens, or oak openings, -and the prairies. In the first division, every traveller must have -remarked, as soon as he descends to this valley, a grandeur in the -form and size of the trees, a depth of verdure in the foliage, and a -magnificent prodigality of growth, that distinguishes this, from every -other country. The trees are large and straight, and rise aloft in -stately columns, free from branches, to a great height. In the rich -bottoms, they are generally wreathed with a drapery of ivy and grape -vines; and these vines have sometimes trunks as large as the human -body. Frequently, these forests are as free from any undergrowth as an -orchard of apple trees. Sometimes the only shrub seen among the tall -trees, is the beautiful pawpaw, with its splendid foliage and graceful -stems. In the rich alluvions of the southern section, impenetrable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> -cane brakes, tangles of brambles, and a rank growth of weeds, are often -found beneath the forest trees; and their lofty branches are hung with -large festoons of Spanish moss. These are the safe retreats of the -bears, panthers, and other wild beasts of the forest.</p> - -<p>Such forest trees only will be noted, as are not found in our northern -climate. It may be proper to remark, that the white pine of New-England -is only found in the upper section of the Mississippi valley—the pitch -pine is found in various places on the high lands, throughout its whole -extent; although not on the banks of the streams of water.</p> - -<p>The cypress is seen on overflowed and swampy land from the mouth of -the Ohio to the gulf of Mexico. It is strikingly singular in its -appearance. Under its deep shade, arise a multitude of cone shaped -posts, called 'cypress knees.' They are of various sizes and heights. -The largest generally seen are about a foot in diameter at the bottom, -two or three inches at the top, and six feet in height. The bark is -smooth, and grows over the top end the same as at the sides. The -ground, in a cypress swamp, looks as though tapering posts of all -imaginable sizes had been set there at random; and are sometimes so -thick that it is difficult to ride among them. It has been supposed -that these knees are but the commencement of large trees, and there is -some reason for this belief; for the tree itself has a buttress that -looks exactly like an enlarged cypress knee. A full sized cypress is -ten feet in diameter<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> at the ground, but it tapers so rapidly that in -ascending eight feet, it is not more than about two feet in diameter; -from thence, it rises in a straight smooth column, eighty feet, without -any apparent diminution of its size; it then branches off at once -in all directions, and forms a level surface of foliage at the top. -A forest of cypress looks like a scaffolding of deep green verdure -suspended in the air.—The timber is clear of knots, easily wrought, -durable, and is the most valuable timber tree in all the southern -country.</p> - -<p>The live oak is only found near the sea coast. It does not grow tall, -but runs out into long lateral branches, looking like an immense spread -umbrella. The leaf is small and evergreen. It bears an abundance of -acorns, which are small, long and a good deal tapering at each end. Its -timber is hard to cut, and will immediately sink in water.</p> - -<p>The peccan is of beautiful form and appearance, and makes excellent -timber for building and rails. It bears a round nut about an inch and a -half long and half an inch in diameter. It excels all other nuts in the -delicacy of its flavor.</p> - -<p>The black locust is an excellent timber tree, and is much used in the -building of steamboats. Its blossoms yield an exquisite perfume. The -white locust is similar to that of the north.</p> - -<p>The black walnut is a splendid tree and grows to a great size. It is -much used in finishing houses and in cabinet furniture. It produces a -nut very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> similar to the northern butternut; but the meat is not very -palatable. The white walnut is also plenty, as are the various kinds of -hickory.</p> - -<p>The sycamore is the largest tree of the western forest. One of these -trees near Marietta measures fifteen feet in diameter. Judge Tucker of -Missouri fitted up a hollow section of a sycamore for an office.</p> - -<p>The yellow poplar is a splendid tree and next in size to the sycamore. -Its timber is very useful for building and rails. Its blossoms are -gaudy bell-shaped cups, and the leaves are of beautiful forms. The -cotton-wood is universally found in all the southern country below -the mouth of the Ohio. It is a tree of the poplar class, and somewhat -resembles the whitewood of the more northern regions. It is a large -stately tree and sometimes measures twelve feet in diameter. One tree -has been known to make more than a thousand rails. It derives its name -from the circumstance, that when its blossoms fall, it scatters on the -ground something much resembling, in feeling and appearance, short -ginned cotton.</p> - -<p>The catalpa is found in the region of the cotton-wood. It is remarkable -for the great size of its deep green leaves, and its rounded tuft of -beautiful blossoms of unequalled fragrance. Its seed is contained in -a pod about two feet in length, much resembling a bean pod. As an -ornamental tree it is unrivalled. In gracefulness of form, grandeur -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> its foliage, and rich, ambrosial fragrance of its blossom, it is -incomparably superior to all the trees of the western world.</p> - -<p>The magnolia has been much overrated, both as to the size of the tree -and blossom also. It grows up tall and slim; the largest, about two -feet in diameter; smooth whitish bark; and slightly resembling the -northern beech. Its leaves are of a deep green, small and evergreen. -Its blossom is of a pure white, much resembling, although twice the -size, of a northern pond lilly. The fragrance is indeed powerful, but -rather disagreeable.</p> - -<p>There are half a dozen species of laurels; the most beautiful of which, -is the laurel almond. It grows to the size of the pear tree; the leaves -resemble those of the peach; its blossoms yield a most delicious -perfume; and its foliage continues green all the year. It is found in -the valley of the Red River.</p> - -<p>There is a striking and beautiful tree found on the head waters of the -Washita and in the interior of Arkansas, called bow-wood, from the -circumstance that the Indians use it for bows. It bears a large fruit -of most inviting appearance, much resembling a very large orange. -But although beautiful to the eye, it is bitter to the taste. It has -large and beautiful leaves, in form and appearance much like those of -the orange, but much larger. The wood is yellow like fustic, and it -produces a similar dye. It is hard, heavy and durable, and is supposed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> -to be more incorruptible than live oak, mulberry, cypress, or cedar. -Above the raft on Red River, the hulk of a steamboat has been built -entirely of its timber.</p> - -<p>The China tree is not a native of this country, but is much cultivated -in the southern regions of the valley for ornament and shade. It has -fine long spiked leaves, eight or ten inches in length, set in pairs on -each side of a stem two feet long. In the flowering season, the tree is -completely covered with blossoms. It bears a small reddish berry, which -continues on the tree a long time after the leaves have fallen, and -gives it, even then, an interesting appearance. It is a tree of more -rapid growth than any known in this country.</p> - -<p>The pawpaw is not only the most graceful and pleasing in appearance -of all the wild fruit-bearing shrubs, but throws into the shade those -cultivated by the hand of man. The leaves are long, of a rich green -color, and much resemble the leaves of the tobacco plant. The stem -is straight, white, and of unrivalled beauty. The fruit resembles -the cucumber, but smoother and more pointed at the ends.—There are -from two to five in a cluster; and when ripe are of a rich beautiful -yellow. The fruit contains from two to six seeds, double the size of -the tamarind. The pulp resembles egg custard. It has precisely the same -feeling in the mouth, and unites the taste of eggs, cream, sugar, and -spice. It is a natural custard; but too rich and highly seas<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span>oned to be -much relished by most people. So many whimsical and unexpected tastes -are compounded in the fruit, that a person of the most sober face, when -he first tastes of it, unconsciously relaxes into a smile.</p> - -<p>The persimon is found in Missouri, and in the region to the south of -it. Its leaves resemble those of the wild cherry, and it grows about -the size of the pear tree. The fruit is of the size of a common grape, -in which are similar small seeds. It ripens about the middle of autumn. -The fruit is of a yellowish purple color, and it is too sweet to be -agreeable to many people.</p> - -<p>In the middle regions, on some of the prairies, large tracts are -covered with the crab-apple tree.—Their appearance is like the -cultivated apple tree, although the fruit and the tree are much -smaller.—It makes good cider and preserves, but is too tart to be -eaten in its natural state.</p> - -<p>The white and black mulberry are both found in the Mississippi valley, -but the black is by far the most common. It has been satisfactorily -proved, however, that the silk worm will thrive and produce well, upon -the black mulberry.</p> - -<p>Cane brake is seen on the banks of the Mississippi soon after you leave -the mouth of the Ohio. It generally grows from fifteen to twenty feet -in height; but in the rich bottoms near Natchez it sometimes attains -the height of thirty feet. It is five years coming to maturity, and -then produces<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> an abundant crop of seed, on heads much resembling broom -corn. It is an evergreen. The leaves are three or four inches long, -but narrow and sharp pointed. It is much used for reeds and fishing -rods. They grow so very thick that it is difficult for a man to make -head way among them. When they are cut down and become dry, they burn -freely.—The negroes have fine sport in burning them. The heat rarifies -the air in the hollow between the joints and causes them to burst with -a noise like a gun; so that when a large quantity of them are set on -fire, the noise is like a continued discharge of musketry.</p> - -<p>The "barrens" have a distinct and peculiar configuration. The surface -is generally undulating with gentle hills—sometimes of a conical form, -but generally, running in parallel ridges. The soil is of a clayey -texture, of a reddish or greyish color, and is covered with tall coarse -grass. The trees are neither large nor very small; and are scattered -over the surface, at the distance of two or three rods from each -other. They are chiefly of the different kinds of oaks, and from this -circumstance, these barrens are, in many places, called "oak openings." -The soil never exceeds second rate, and is often only third rate; but -it will produce good crops of corn and wheat for many years, without -the aid of manure. There are large tracts of this kind of land in -Kentucky, Tennessee and Alabama. They are common in Indiana, Michigan, -Illinois, Missouri,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> Arkansas and Texas; and, indeed, they are seen -with more or less frequency over a large portion of the Mississippi -valley.</p> - -<p>The 'pine barrens' are covered with a beautiful growth of long leaved -pines. They run up tall, in a straight shaft, generally about two -feet in diameter, and are excellent for timber. The surface is gently -undulating; sometimes, approaching a dead level, and is covered with -a scanty growth of weeds and grass. The soil is sandy, but sometimes -slightly tinged with reddish clay. It is supposed to be weak and -unproductive; but some of these 'barrens' have produced two or three -good crops of grain, without being enriched by manure. Large districts -of this kind of land are found in Alabama, Mississippi and Arkansas; -and they are common in Florida, and in some sections of Louisiana and -Texas.</p> - -<p>The remaining, and by far the most extensive surface of the valley, is -that of the prairies. Although they have not much diversity of aspect, -yet they may be classed under three general heads—the alluvial, or -wet, the bushy, and the dry prairies. The bushy prairies seem to be -of an intermediate character between the alluvial prairies and the -barrens. They have springs of water, covered with hazel and furzy -bushes, small sassafras shrubs and grape vines. Acres of this shrubbery -are sometimes found covered with the common hop vine. Prairies of this -description are very common in Indiana,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> Illinois and Missouri; and -they alternate among the other prairies, for some distance towards the -Rocky mountains.</p> - -<p>The wet prairies form the smallest division. They are generally found -on the margin of streams; but sometimes, they occur, with all their -distinctive features, far from the spot where waters now run. They are -generally basins, as it regards the adjacent regions, and possess a -deep, black soil of exhaustless fertility. They are the best soils for -wheat and Indian corn; but, ordinarily, too tender and loamy for the -cultivated grasses. In a native state, they are covered with grass and -weeds of astonishing height and luxuriance. They are often higher than -a man's head, when mounted on horse back. An exact account of the size -and rankness of the weeds, flowering plants, and wild grass on the rich -alluvial prairies of Illinois and Missouri, would appear to those who -have never seen them, like an idle tale. Still more than the rolling -prairies, they strike the eye as a dead level, but they generally have -a slight inclination, sufficient to carry off the water.</p> - -<p>The dry prairies are generally destitute of springs and bushes, but -are covered with weeds, flowering plants and wild grass. The roundings -of their undulations are so gentle, that to the eye, taking in a -large surface at a single view, they appear as a dead level; but in -travelling over them their undulations fully appear. The ravines -and gullies occa<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span>sionally found, fully indicate, that they have a -sufficient inclination to communicate a quick motion to the waters, -which fall upon them. This is by far the largest class of prairies -in the western country. Prairies of this description are frequently -found in Illinois; the largest of which, called "grand prairie," is a -hundred miles in length, by fifty in breadth. They are often found in -Indiana, Missouri and Texas; but they appear displayed on a magnificent -scale, between the western border of the State of Missouri, and the -Rocky mountains. Here, are the appropriate ranges for the buffalo, wild -cattle and horses. Here are the plains, without wood or water, where -the traveller may wander for days, and see the sun rise and set in an -ocean of grass. Here he may travel, day after day, under a cloudless -ardor of the sun, and not find a stream of water to slake his thirst, -or a solitary tree for shelter and shade.</p> - -<p>The general aspect of the Mississippi valley, in regard to woodland -and prairies, may in a summary manner, be thus stated:—The surface, -in a state of nature, from the Alleghany mountains to the western -border of Ohio, is covered with a dense forest. Here, are the first -indications of prairies. Proceeding westward through Indiana, Illinois -and Missouri, the prairies become larger and more frequent, until -at last, it becomes all prairie to the base of the Rocky mountains. -It is a fact, beyond all question, that more than half of the great -Mis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span>sissippi valley is smooth prairie, entirely destitute of timber. -Large portions of the valley will support a dense population, and -become inhabited; but the larger prairies will remain uncultivated -for ages. They are fit haunts only for the adventurous hunter, or the -wandering shepherd.</p> - -<p>During the season of vegetation, no adequate idea can be conveyed by -description, of the number, forms, varieties, scents and hues of the -flowering plants on the western prairies. The violet, and the more -humble and modest kinds of flowers, which show their blossoms in early -spring, not being able to compete with the rank grass and weeds around -them, soon become choked and lost to the view; but the taller and more -hardy kinds, successfully struggle for display, and rear their heads -high enough to be seen. They have tall and arrowy stems, spiked or -tassellated heads, and the blossoms are of great size, grandeur and -splendor, but not much delicacy of fragrance. As the season advances, -distinct successions of dominant hues prevail. In spring, the prevalent -color of the prairie flowers, is bluish purple—in midsummer, red, -slightly tinged with yellow—in autumn, yellow. At this season of the -year, the flowers are very large, generally, of the sunflower form, and -they are so profusely scattered over the prairies, as to present to the -imagination an immense surface of gilding.</p> - -<p>And this country of dense forests and rich prairies, is intersected -with large and navigable rivers.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> These, alive as they are with -their steamboats, keel and flat boats, afford great facilities for -travelling, and for the transportation of merchandize and produce. The -prairies and woodland also, present great facilities for travelling, -and the transportation of goods. They are often, in a state of nature, -so smooth, so gently undulating, and of such an unbroken surface, that -carriages may run over them without interruption or delay.</p> - -<p>Such are the general outlines and features of the great Mississippi -valley; but a complete description would require volumes. Nature has -laid off her work here, upon a magnificent scale, and finished it with -a liberal hand. Its natural productions are rich and abundant. Its -waters abound with fish—its soil teems with an exuberance of trees, -plants and blossoms—rich mines lie emboweled beneath the surface—and -wild game are profusely scattered over its prairies, woodland and -rivers. To the husbandman, it presents itself in a more attractive -aspect, than the granite hills and rocky soil of New-England. It has -increased in population and wealth, incomparably greater than any other -section of the world; and ere long, it will contain a majority of the -population of the United States.</p> - -<p>And now, it only remains, most respectfully to take leave of my -readers. Those who have traced the <span class="smcap">TRIP TO THE WEST AND TEXAS</span> -through the foregoing pages, I hope, may have enjoyed all its -pleasures, without incurring its attendant hardships and fatigue.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</a></p> - -<p class="center">Territory of Michigan.</p> - - -<p>This Territory is bounded by the national boundary line on the east -and north, by the Mississippi river on the west, and by the States of -Illinois, Indiana and Ohio on the south. These boundaries include a -vast extent of territory; but as that portion of it which lies to the -north and west of Lake Michigan and the State of Illinois is for the -most part a wilderness, having only some small settlements on Green -Bay, the Milwake and Mississippi, my remarks will be confined to that -part of it commonly called the peninsula, lying between lakes Erie and -Michigan.</p> - -<p><i>Population.</i>—This territory is estimated by good judges to contain -between thirty-five and forty thousand inhabitants. The rapid and -increasing tide of emigration into it, induces the belief that it will -soon be admitted as a State into the Union. Its pres<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>ent and increasing -importance may be in a great measure attributed to the enterprising, -active and energetic talents of its late governor, Lewis Cass, the -present Secretary of War. His personal exertions and enlightened -policy, not only facilitated its settlement, but developed its vast and -various resources. A large portion of its inhabitants are from New-York -and the Eastern States, and are as active and industrious as those -are in the sections of country from which they came. They make rapid -improvements; and in a few years, the country will not be behind the -flourishing State of Ohio, in farms and villages.</p> - -<p><i>Face of the Country.</i>—That part immediately bordering on lakes Erie, -St. Clair and Huron, and their connecting waters, is generally rather -level and heavily timbered, but somewhat deficient in good water. In -the interior, it becomes gently undulating, occasionally well timbered, -and interspersed with oak openings, plains and prairies. The plains -are frequently covered with such a regular, beautiful and thrifty -growth of timber, so free from underbrush, as to wear the aspect of -a cultivated forest. They are more easily improved than the heavy -timbered land, and produce full as well. The openings are often rather -deficient in timber, though they are not unfrequently skirted with -plains, or contain patches of woodland, from which an ample supply -may be obtained, not only for fuel, but for building, fencing and all -other fanning purposes, if<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> used with economy. They usually require but -little, and sometimes no labor to prepare them for the plough; three -or four yoke of cattle are found to be amply sufficient to break them -up the first time, after which they are cultivated with nearly as much -ease as old improved lands. They are found to be excellent for wheat, -to improve by cultivation, and usually to produce a good crop of corn -the first season.</p> - -<p>The prairies generally support a heavy growth of grass—are free from -timber, and may be divided into two classes. One is called dry, and -the other is denominated wet prairies. The former possess a rich soil, -are easily cultivated, and generally yield in rich abundance almost -every kind of produce which might be expected to flourish in forty-two -degrees north latitude, especially those on St. Joseph's river. And the -latter often prove serviceable, not only in affording early pasture, -but in supplying the emigrant with the means of wintering his cattle; -and may with a little labor, frequently be made to yield an abundant -supply of excellent hay. The interior of the territory is well watered -with rivers, creeks and small lakes; many of which contain an unusual -quantity of fish. There are several salt springs, which have not yet -been tried nor improved, situated in different parts of the territory, -all of which have been reserved by the United States; but it is not -certain that any of them will prove very valuable. By boring a number -of feet, the water would<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> improve, and might, in some cases at least, -not only justify the erection of extensive works for the manufacture of -salt, but prove also a source of revenue to the United States, as well -as afford to the manufacturer the means of accumulating wealth.</p> - -<p>The surveyed part of the territory is laid out by the United States -into townships of six miles square, which are divided into thirty-six -sections or square miles, containing each six hundred and forty acres. -These are subdivided, by imaginary lines, into quarter and half quarter -sections; the latter of which contain each eighty acres, is the -smallest quantity sold by the United States, and may, as well as the -larger tracts, be selected by the purchaser. Though there is a small -tract of land which proves rather unhealthy at the mouth of Huron, -Saginaw and Rouge rivers, as well as at the mouth of Brownstown and -Swan creeks, owing to the sluggishness of the water at the outlet of -these streams, yet the climate of the surveyed part of the territory -is mild, lying between forty-one degrees thirty-nine minutes, and -forty-two degrees thirty-four minutes north latitude. The air is -salubrious, and the water generally clear. The soil, which produces in -rich abundance wheat rye, barley, oats, peas, beans, Indian corn, and -potatoes, as well as all kinds of vegetables usually cultivated in the -same latitude, consists of such a variety, that it cannot fail to suit -the choice of almost every person in the pursuit of agriculture. Fruit, -of course, has not yet been tested in the interior,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> for the want -of time, except peaches, which do exceedingly well; but if I may be -permitted to draw an inference, from the quality of the various kinds -which grow in great abundance on the French plantations, along the -margin of Detroit river, as well as on other parts of the great chain -of navigable waters, then I presume I shall be allowed to say, that the -soil of Michigan is equal, for the production of fruit, to that of any -State in the Union. The pear trees along this river, which were planted -in the early settlement by the French, are remarkably large, very tall, -and extremely thrifty and beautiful, and bear a most delicious fruit, -which generally sells from two to four shillings per bushel. Apples, at -Detroit, vary from twelve to fifty cents, and may generally be procured -by the bushel, for the latter price, even in winter. Cider, in the -fall, is from one and a half to two dollars per barrel, for the juice. -Currants, blackberries, black and red raspberries and cherries bring -from three to four cents per quart; though the earliest of these, as -well as whortle berries and strawberries, command sixpence. Plumbs are -scarce, because they have not been generally cultivated, though they -are likewise found to do well.</p> - -<p>The price of unsold wild land is fixed and uniform, being one dollar -and twenty-five cents per acre, the terms ready money, and the title -indisputable, as it comes direct from the United States, under the -seal of the President. The richest, most fertile,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> and perhaps more -beautiful part of the territory, is generally thought to be adjacent to -the St. Joseph's river and its various branches; which, from present -appearances, bids fair to become speedily settled; settlements began -to form on it a year before it was offered for sale. It only came in -market in May, 1834, and such has been the influx of emigration to this -part of the territory, that the Legislature in October last, formed -twelve new counties, mostly thereon, and organized two of that number. -This part of the territory possesses several copious mill streams, -particularly Hog-creek, the Dowagiake, Christianna, Pigeon, Crooked -and Portage rivers, a few of which have already been improved, by -the erection of saw and grist mills. The climate of this part of the -territory, though mild, is apparently more subject to wind than the -valley of the Ohio river. The prevailing wind is the southwest; and as -it crosses a large tract of prairie country in Illinois and Indiana, -comes here with much force, and in winter is somewhat piercing. -Considerable snow falls; nevertheless it is very favorable to wheat, -rye, potatoes and turnips, and though not very adverse, yet not so -congenial as the valley of the Ohio river, to southern corn and the -more tender grains and esculents. Fruits, of course, have not yet been -cultivated here, except a few apples and peaches, by the French which -appear to do well.</p> - -<p>The prairies in this quarter are of the richest soil, and may be -ploughed in two days after the frost<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> leaves the ground in the spring. -They usually produce thirty or forty bushels of wheat to the acre; and -from thirty to eighty of corn have been raised from the same quantity -of ground, in all the prairies that have as yet been occupied: four -hundred acres of corn were cultivated on Beardsley's prairie last year, -which having been improved the year before averaged fifty bushels to -the acre. These prairies not unfrequently produce thirty or forty -bushels of corn to the acre, the first season, without being ploughed -or hoed after planting.</p> - -<p>The surveyed part of the territory is divided into three United States -land districts, containing each one land office; one of which is at -Detroit, one at Monroe and one at Bronson, in the county of Kalamazoo.</p> - -<p>The rivers Grand, St. Joseph, Raisin, Huron, Clinton, Rouge, Kalamazoo -and Shiawassee, interlocking in different parts of the territory, not -only irrigate the country in a beautiful manner, but offer unparalleled -inducements for canaling, and with comparatively but little expense, -as there would be no mountains, nor probably rock strata to cut -through. It is already in contemplation, by means of the Grand -river and Clinton, or the St. Joseph's and Raisin, to open a water -communication across the peninsula, by means of a canal, which would -terminate at Detroit or Monroe; and probably at no distant period, it -will not only be undertaken, but will be accomplished in such a manner -as to accom<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span>modate both these places in this respect. A company was -incorporated, by an act of the Legislature, last fall, under the title -of the "Summit Portage Canal and Road Company," with a capital of ten -thousand dollars, to be divided into one thousand shares of ten dollars -each, for the purpose of cutting a canal west of Lake Michigan, to -connect the Fox and Ouisconsin rivers at what is usually termed the -Portage of the Ouisconsin, and to construct a turnpike road on said -Portage, parallel to said canal; and also to construct another turnpike -road from the lower extremity of the rapids of the Kaukauin, on the -east side of the Fox river, on the most direct and eligible route to -Winnebago lake, and for the erection of piers, wharves, warehouses -and other public buildings and improvements, in and about said canal -and turnpike, for commercial purposes.—Michigan extends at present -west to the Mississippi river; but it is expected the territory will -shortly be divided, and a new territory set off west of Lake Michigan; -and organized by the name of Ouisconsin or Huron. The territory was -originally owned and occupied by emigrants from France; consequently -the old inhabitants or first settlers are mostly French.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Wayne County</span>—contains about seven thousand inhabitants, many -of whom are French. Its seat of justice is Detroit. Hamtranck, Detroit -and Springwells. These towns, which lie in the northeast part of the -country, border on Detroit river, and are rath<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span>er level, and but poorly -supplied with water. The northern part of the two latter is somewhat -broken by marsh and wet prairie; but near the centre of Springwells -is a tract, containing some excellent arable land not yet entered, -lying within from six to ten miles of Detroit, where a new settlement -has recently been formed, and through which a road has lately been -opened, leading from Detroit to Farmington. The towns of Pekin, Nankin -and Plymouth are well supplied with water by the river Rouge and its -various branches, which afford several eligible mill sites, and which -have already been advantageously improved by the erection thereon of -saw and grist mills. Pekin is heavily timbered with white and black -ash, white and black oak, beech, maple and sugar tree. The land is -rolling, and the soil rich and fertile, consisting of sand, loam and -some clay. The northern and southern part of the town of Nankin has -much the same appearance as Pekin, though the soil is more sandy, and -requires less labor to cultivate it; yet it yields quite as well; -but the middle is plains and openings, of an inferior quality and -soil. Plymouth has likewise a similar appearance to Pekin, though the -northern part is more rolling, yet even here the timber is the same, -with the addition of black walnut; but the soil is generally of a -superior quality.</p> - -<p><i>Huron.</i>—This town is watered by a delightsome river, of the same -name, whose waters are very transparent and abound with fish. It runs -through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> the town diagonally, exhibiting in many places rich bottom -lands, often bounded on one or both sides, by high sloping banks, -and not unfrequently skirted with beautiful plains. Though a great -proportion of this town is rather destitute of running streams, yet the -soil in general is fertile, and for the most part easily cultivated. -The eastern part is oak openings and plains of a good quality, -interspersed with groves of heavy timber which often contain a small -black ash swamp, and sometimes a wet or dry prairie; but the south part -is heavily timbered with white and black ash, white oak, beech and -maple, with occasionally a whitewood. The southwest corner is low land, -and contains a large wet prairie.</p> - -<p><i>Brownstown</i> is watered by the Huron river, Muddy and Brownstown -creeks. The north-western part of this town is but poorly watered, and -exhibits alternately oak openings, plains and prairies, occasionally -interspersed with groves of heavy timber. The southeastern part is -rather level and heavily timbered, except small tracts at the mouths of -Huron river and Brownstown creek, which consist of prairies that are -more or less inundated with water.</p> - -<p><i>Montguagon</i> embraces Gross' Isle, and is situate on Detroit river. -It is gently undulating, possesses a fine quarry of limestone, and a -rich soil, supporting a thrifty and heavy growth of white oak, hickory, -beech, maple, white and black ash.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Monroe County</span>—contains a population of about four thousand, -many of whom are French. There<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> are three villages in this county, -namely, Monroe, Frenchtown and Port Lawrence. The first of these, -which is the seat of justice for the county, is a flourishing village, -situate on the river Raisin, about six miles from lake Erie, and -thirty-six from Detroit. The United States' turnpike, from the latter -place to the Ohio State line, passes through it, and here was situated -the bank of Monroe. It possesses an ample supply of water power for -propelling hydraulic machinery, a part of which has already been -converted to the use of saw and grist mills, as well as to the use of -machines for carding and dressing cloth.</p> - -<p>The United States have made a survey of Plaisance Bay harbor, at the -mouth of the river, with a view of improving the same. Monroe is now -the second village in the peninsula, as it regards population; and -should they succeed in forming a good harbor at the mouth of the river, -as it possesses water power, it may yet equal, if not rival Detroit. -The county is generally well watered; the north-eastern part is rather -level and heavily timbered; but the western and southern part is -rolling land, alternately abounding in prairies, openings, or heavy -groves of timber. The soil of this county is uniformly rich, and of a -very superior quality.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Washtenaw County</span>—contains about four thousand inhabitants, -who are, with a few exceptions, Americans. Its seat of justice is Ann -Arbor, a village of five years' growth, situate on the river Hu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span>ron, -forty miles west of Detroit, containing about ninety dwelling houses. -Ypsilanti, the second village in the county as to population, is -likewise situate on the Huron, about ten miles below Ann Arbor, at -the place where the United States' turnpike, from Detroit to Chicago, -crosses it.</p> - -<p>This county contains twelve mercantile establishments, three -distilleries, one fanning mill factory, one oil factory, one gunsmith, -one wagon maker, five flouring mills, thirteen saw mills, and two -machines for carding and dressing cloth. It abounds in select and -common schools, and contains many mechanics. Its surface is gently -undulating and beautiful; and its soil prolific, consisting of a deep -black sand, loam and some clay. It exhibits in succession, beautiful -prairies, oak openings, and heavy groves of timber, consisting of -white, red and black oak, beech, walnut, whitewood, bass, elm, maple -and butternut, with almost all other kinds that usually grow in -forty-two degrees north latitude, evergreen excepted. The river Huron, -of lake Erie, meanders through the centre of it north and south; -is navigable for boats and rafts to the lake, and with its several -branches water the middle; the head waters of the Shiawassee the north, -and the rivers Raisin and Saline and their branches, the south part -of said county. It has numerous and extensive water privileges for -facilitating manufactures.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Macomb County</span>—contains about two thousand five hundred -inhabitants, a considerable number of whom are French. The -north-eastern and eastern part of this county is in general rather -level, and for the most part heavily timbered; yet it is sufficiently -uneven to drain off and leave no stagnant waters; but the western part -is rolling land, somewhat broken, being very hilly and uneven, and -consisting of oak openings, plains, and some prairie land.</p> - -<p>The plains are remarkably free from underbrush, and are, as well as -the prairies and openings, very rich and fertile, producing not only -wheat, but every other kind of grain in rich abundance. The Clinton -river, together with its numerous tributaries, irrigate this county in -a beautiful manner. It possesses advantages over many of the peninsular -counties, on account of its proximity to the great chain of navigable -waters. It fronts on lake St. Clair; and the river Clinton, which -runs through the entire county, nearly in the centre, may easily be -rendered navigable for batteaux, as high up as Rochester. And for the -accomplishment of which a company has already been formed and were -incorporated last fall by an act of the Legislature. This river is now -navigable to Mt. Clemens, for vessels of considerable burthen; and -when the obstructions at the mouth of the river are removed, for which -object an application has been made to Congress for an appropriation, -then any vessels or steamboats on the lake<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> may come up to the village, -a distance of six miles, by water.</p> - -<p>This county is very well supplied with water power, it has now in -operation seven saw mills, and two grist mills, and embraces four -stores, three distilleries, two asheries, and six blacksmith shops. Its -seat of justice is Mt. Clemens, a flourishing village situate on the -Clinton river, at the place where the United States' road from Detroit -to fort Gratiot crosses it. It lies four and a half miles from the -lake, by land, and twenty northeastwardly from Detroit.</p> - -<p><i>Washington</i> lies in the northwest corner of the county, and consists -principally of oak openings and plains, though it has some prairie -land. The openings and plains are extremely free from underbrush and -prove to be excellent for the cultivation of wheat. The south part -of the town is rolling land, exhibiting a rich, and for the most -part a sandy soil, though it is sometimes composed of sand and loam -intermixed; but the north part is what is commonly called broken land, -being very hilly and uneven, and not unfrequently exhibits granitic -boulders in great plenty.</p> - -<p><i>Shelby and Ray</i> consist principally of gentle undulating and heavy -timbered land, interspersed occasionally with oak openings. They are -well watered and possess a very productive soil.</p> - -<p><i>Harrison</i> is in general rather level, and the north part though -somewhat swampy is susceptible of being converted into excellent -meadow.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span></p> - -<p><i>Clinton</i> possesses generally a rich soil, is heavily timbered and -embraces a marsh or wet prairie of considerable extent on its eastern -border adjacent to the lake shore, the greater part of which, however, -if properly ditched, would prove to be good natural meadow. The -northern part of the town is gently undulating and well supplied with -water, of which the southern part is too deficient, being rather level.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Oakland County</span>—contains about six thousand inhabitants, all -Americans. It has three villages, each with a mill on its border, -namely, Pontiac, Auburn and Rochester; the first of which is the seat -of justice for the county, and is situated twenty-eight miles northwest -of Detroit, on the Clinton river, where the United States' road from -Detroit to Saginaw crosses it. This county presents a great variety of -soil, and upon examination will be found to suit the choice of almost -every person in the pursuit of agriculture. The rivers Clinton, Rouge -and Huron, interlocking in different parts extend their many branches, -and irrigate the county in a beautiful manner.</p> - -<p><i>Troy</i> embraces townships one and two south in range eleven east, is -situate in the southeast quarter of the county, and is principally -timbered land; township two in this town is entirely of this -description, is heavily wooded with black and white walnut, linden, -white, red and black oak, and the westerly half is of that description -usually denominated rol<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span>ling timbered land, and in quality of soil, -is not surpassed by any in the territory; but township one of that -description called plains, interspersed with marshes, and is of an -inferior quality.</p> - -<p><i>Bloomfield</i> presents a variety of soil, which may be divided into -three classes, oak openings, plains and timbered land. The country in -the neighborhood of the lakes is oak openings, not so good for grass, -but producing wheat in rich abundance—I would mention that two farmers -in the vicinity of Wing lake, harvested one hundred and thirty acres -of excellent wheat the last season. The north of Bloomfield is of this -description, but the south part is timbered land.</p> - -<p><i>Pontiac</i> is generally oak openings of a good quality, but inferior to -the lands of Bloomfield.</p> - -<p><i>Oakland.</i>—The south part of this town is timbered land with a rich -soil, and the north part plains and openings of a good quality.</p> - -<p>The town of Troy is watered by a branch of the Rouge, and the branches -of Red river which empty into the Clinton. Bloomfield is watered by -three branches of the Rouge, which, meandering through the county, -enable every farmer to partake of their privileges. The towns of -Pontiac and Oakland are watered by the Clinton river, Paint and Stony -creeks and the extreme branches of the Huron. All these streams possess -great privileges for hydraulic machinery. The towns of Pontiac and -Oakland now contain twelve saw mills, four flouring mills, three<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> -fulling mills, three carding machines and one woollen factory. In -Bloomfield are four saw mills and one grist mill. In Farmington two saw -mills and one grist mill. Perhaps no country of like extent so level -possesses more water power.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">St. Clair County</span>—possesses great commercial advantages, as -it lies on the great chain of navigable waters. It is bounded east by -lake Huron and the river St. Clair, which separates it from Canada; -south by lake St. Clair and the county of Macomb, west by the counties -of Macomb and Lapeer, and north by Sanilac. Black, Pine and Belle -rivers, Mill creek and their branches, as well as several smaller -streams water this country. The first of these streams is navigable for -vessels of considerable burthen, as far up as Mill creek; but Belle -and Pine rivers are ascended only a very short distance in batteaux. -This country is generally rather level, the eastern and southern part -is gently undulating, rich, fertile and most heavily timbered, though -there is occasionally some prairie land on the border of lake St. -Clair, and along the southern margin of St. Clair river. The northern -and western part of this country is comparatively of a light, and for -the most part sandy soil, though tolerably productive, and interspersed -with swamps and lowland. A great proportion of the timber in this -quarter is pine, though it is often intermixed with hard wood and not -unfrequently interspersed with groves of tamerack, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> some instances -with spruce, and often on the shore of lake Huron, with red and white -cedar.</p> - -<p>There are now in operation in this county, several of the most -extensive saw mills in the territory, which are constantly engaged -in manufacturing pine boards, planks, &c. and which, together with -shingles, constitute at present the principal article of trade in the -country. And as lumber may be conveyed from this county by water to -any port, not only on the great lakes, but on their connecting waters, -therefore the pine timber must ultimately become very valuable. Almost -all the pine now used at Detroit for building, comes from this county, -as it is the only one in the surveyed part of the territory that is -well supplied with this valuable building material. The United States' -road from Detroit to fort Gratiot runs through the centre of this -county, and about twelve miles west of the village of Palmer, which -is the seat of justice for the county; and which is situate at the -junction of Pine and St. Clair rivers, about twelve miles south of fort -Gratiot, and sixty by water northeast of Detroit.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">St. Joseph's County</span>—is perhaps the best in the territory, -both as to water privileges and the fertility of its soil. It is -watered by the St. Joseph's river and its various branches, many -of which afford numerous water privileges, particularly Hog creek, -Pigeon, Portage and Crooked rivers, which may be considered copious and -excellent mill streams. A saw mill has already been put in operation -on Crooked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span> river, and several others have been commenced on the same -creek and about Pigeon prairie. The water in this county is uniformly -pure and healthy, the climate mild, and the face of the country -moderately undulating; consisting principally of oak openings and -prairies. There is however a sufficiency of timber in it generally, -and from the Grand Traverse on the northwest side of the river St. -Joseph's, as high up I believe as Portage river, is a belt of excellent -timbered land which is well supplied with water. The principal prairies -in this county are Sturges, Nottawa Sapee and White Pigeon. The first -of these, Sturges prairie, has a beautiful appearance, and is exuberant -in fertility, but is not convenient for water and but tolerably so to -good timber—a few families are located on it. Nottawa Sapee, part of -which is embraced within the Indian reserve, is an excellent prairie, -and settlements have commenced on it. But Pigeon prairie is the most -valuable one in the St. Joseph's country, as well as the most densely -peopled, and perhaps it will not be deemed invidious to say it is the -best settlement in the St. Joseph's country, whether we regard the -number of its inhabitants or their intelligence and wealth. The soil -of these prairies may be considered equal to that of any land in the -United States. The usual mode of cultivating these, as well as all -other prairies in the vicinity of the river St. Joseph's, is to break -up the soil immediately with the plough at the same time dropping the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> -corn on the edge of the furrow in such a manner that it may be covered -by the succeeding one; in this manner without any other cultivation, -they often produce thirty to fifty bushels of corn to the acre the -first season, though sometimes it becomes necessary to go through and -cut down some of the rankest weeds. The counties of Branch, Barry and -Eaton, and all the country north of township four, north; west of the -principal meridian, south of the county of Michilimackinac, and east of -the line between ranges twelve and thirteen west, and of lake Michigan -is attached to St. Joseph's.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Cass County</span>—-contains a population of two thousand, and is -likewise watered by the St. Joseph's river and its branches, several -of which afford good mill privileges, particularly the Dowagiake and -Christianna, which are rapid and durable streams. A mill has already -been erected and is now in operation on the Christianna, near Young's -prairie.</p> - -<p>The face of this county is similar to that of St. Joseph's county; -though some parts are undulating, yet in general it is level, -sufficiently uneven however to drain off and leave no stagnant waters. -The timber is principally oak, ash, elm, sugar tree, cherry, black and -white walnut and hickory, with a variety of other kinds intermixed. -The country is generally open, and you can ride with a wheel carriage -through the wood land with almost the same ease you can over the -prairies, being not in the least interrupted with underbrush. In every -part of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> county the roads are good. Though some parts of it are -but thinly timbered, yet along the Dowagiake from its source to its -mouth there is a broad belt of excellent timbered and very rich land, -from one to several miles wide, also along the upper portion of the -Christianna, extending north of its source, and thence across to the -Dowagiake is a fine belt of woodland. This county includes within -its boundaries the following prairies, namely, Four Mile, Beardsley, -Townsend's, McKenney's, La Grange, Pokagon and Young's, besides several -small ones, not however known by any particular name. The prairies here -are of the richest quality of soil; may be ploughed in two days after -the frost leaves the ground in spring, and frequently produce thirty -or forty bushels of corn to the acre the first season, without being -ploughed or hoed after planting. The three last mentioned prairies are -conveniently situate to mill streams, and principally surrounded with -heavy timbered land, but they are nearly all taken up by purchasers. -Four Mile prairie is not so happily situate with regard to mills or -timbered land; but nevertheless is fast filling up. From thirty to -eighty bushels of corn and forty of wheat are usually raised from an -acre in all the prairies where the soil has been subdued by previous -cultivation. Every other kind of grain as well as vegetables are -produced in about the same proportion.</p> - -<p>The only town yet laid out in this county is Edwardsburgh, which is the -temporary county seat. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> is situate on the border of Pleasant lake, -and on the northeast corner of Beardsley's prairie. The United States' -road from Detroit to Chicago passes through it, as well as the road -from fort Wayne to Pokagon, to Niles', to Young's and to Townsend's -prairies, and to Coquillard in Indiana. All these places except fort -Wayne are situate within ten miles of it. From the town platte, or -village, you have a view not only of the prairie, but also of Pleasant -lake.—The prairie is four miles in extent and the lake covers about -one hundred acres. Fish are abundant in all the streams and small -lakes—forty three that would weigh from one to three pounds were -caught with a hook and line in Pleasant lake by two persons in thirty -minutes. The water in this lake is very pure, you can see the bottom -where the depth of water is fifteen feet. The country is healthy, -several large families who settled here before the land was offered for -sale, and who have resided here for three years, have not had a case -of fever nor any other kind of sickness, except what has resulted from -accident.</p> - -<p>The counties of Berrien and Van Buren and all the country north of the -same to lake Michigan is attached at present to Cass county.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Berrien County</span>, not organized, has in it a large proportion -of superior timbered land, but has no prairies of much importance. The -settlements in this county, though few, are scattered along the river, -and the population does not exceed thirty-five<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> families. But from the -nature of the country, I am inclined to believe it will be the most -populous county on the St. Joseph's.</p> - -<p>The rich timbered land, though now avoided for the prairies, will -ultimately be in demand, and will afford many dense and excellent -settlements.—Through the timbered land in this county run several -small creeks, which, with their numerous branches afford an additional -convenience to the farmer which he cannot enjoy in the prairies nor in -the barrens. Besides the heavy timbered and prairie land, there are -large tracts of what are here called barrens, being of a light soil -comparatively speaking, though very productive, and which are thinly -covered with white and black oak, sometimes of stinted growth, but -mostly of a handsome and useful size. The soil is generally a fine -sand, mixed with decayed vegetables and sometimes gravelly, with here -and there a granitic boulder. The soil of the timbered land is of a -loose sandy nature, black with fertility, and eminently adapted to -culture. That of the prairies is nearly of the same nature after the -sod has been reduced by repeated ploughing. In the timbered land we -find white and black walnut, several kinds of ash, also oak, poplar, -lynn, beech, elm, hickory, sugar tree, &c. The southeast part of this -county is well supplied with water, and possesses several mill sites, -some of which have already been improved. Ford's saw and grist mill, -on the Dowagiake, have been for some time in operation. There<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> is -also a saw mill just ready to commence operation at the mouth of the -Dowagiake, and several others have been commenced on the same stream. -There is but one village regularly laid out in this county, which is -called Niles. It is situate on the St. Joseph's, a short distance above -the confluence of the Dowagiake with that river. The first framed house -in it was erected in December, 1833. Next summer it is expected there -will be considerable building there. Last season, though there were -no accommodations, yet by far the greatest portion of merchandize, -&c. destined for the St. Joseph's country, when conveyed by water was -landed there.—Next spring will be built two warehouses, there are now -two stores and a post office. Post offices have been established at the -mouth of the St. Joseph's called Saranac, at Pokagon, southwest corner -of town six south in range sixteen west, at Lagrange in the middle of -town six south of range fifteen west, at Pigeon prairie, at Sturgis' -prairie, and at the Grand Traverse.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lapeer, Shiawassee and Saginaw.</span>—These counties are not yet -organized, but attached to Oakland county. There are no inhabitants in -Lapeer, and but few settlers at present in Saginaw and Shiawassee. The -face of these two counties is very similar to Oakland.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Saginaw</span>—is watered by the Shiawassee, Flint, Cass, -Tittibawassee and Hare rivers. The most of these streams are navigable -for boats; their junction<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span> forms the Saginaw river which is navigable -for sloops twenty miles to the village which bears the same name, and -which is to be the seat of justice for said county. The United States -have established a cantonment here, and laid out a road from this place -to Detroit, which is not yet finished. When this is completed, it is -more than probable that it will settle as speedily as any county in the -territory, as the soil is very favorable to agriculture.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Shiawassee.</span>—The soil of this county is rich, and the face of -the country gently undulating, in some instances rolling, exhibiting -oak openings and heavy groves of timber. The Shiawassee river which is -a beautiful, meandering stream, and navigable for boats and rafts to -the lake, with its several branches, waters the middle and southeast -part. The head branches of Grand and Looking Glass rivers, the -southwest part, and Swartz's creek, the Flint and Mistegayock rivers, -the northeast part of said county.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Calhoun.</span>—This county has lately been organized and its -seat of justice is the town of Marshall, pleasantly situated on the -north bank of the Kalamazoo river. This river and its branches afford -many fine mill privileges. The soil is rich and gently undulating, -consisting principally of burr oak openings, which are frequently -interspersed with prairies. In the southwest part of the county is a -small tract of pine timber.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Jackson</span>—has lately been organized and its seat of justice is -the town of Jackson, situated near Grand river. The west half of it is -undulating, and consists principally of burr and white oak openings, -interspersed occasionally with prairies. It abounds in springs and -possesses a fertile soil. The northeast part is heavily timbered and -somewhat intersected with marshes and small lakes. The soil, however, -of this part, is rich and well adapted for meadow. Grand river is an -excellent stream of pure water, quick, yet navigable for canoes from -its junction with its south branch, quite through the county and to -lake Michigan.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Kalamazoo.</span>—This is one of the newly organized counties. Its -seat of justice is the town of Bronson, pleasantly situated on the -south bank of the Kalamazoo river. The land office has lately been -removed to this place from St. Joseph. The face of this county in -general is moderately undulating, though sometimes rolling. It exhibits -principally burr oak openings, interspersed with rich fertile and dry -prairies, and not unfrequently intersected with groves of first rate -timbered land. The character of the soil is in general either a black -sand or a rich loam. In the southeast corner of this county is an -excellent tract of woodland, covered with a heavy but beautiful grove -of sugar maple. Gull and Round prairies are the two largest in this -county, and are equal to any in the territory for beauty and fertility. -The first of these, Gull prairie, is situate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span> in the vicinity of a -beautiful lake, as well as adjacent to the margin of a romantic creek, -both of which bear the same name. This lake is about four miles long, -and its waters which are very transparent are said to contain white -fish. The creek is very rapid and affords hydraulic privileges equal to -any in the territory. Prairie Round, which lies in the southwest part -of the county, is about four miles broad, and is principally surrounded -with woodland; near its centre there is a beautiful grove of timber of -about a mile in diameter, consisting of sugar maple, black walnut and -hickory. This county is well supplied with water. The Kalamazoo river -which runs through it is a rapid meandering stream, yet navigable for -boats. Its surface is frequently chequered with islands and its banks -occasionally broken.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Branch.</span>—This county is attached to St. Joseph's. A large -portion of it, particularly the southern part, is heavily timbered -land, consisting principally of black and white walnut, sugar maple, -whitewood, lynn, and some other kinds in smaller quantities. The -Chicago road which runs through the northern part of this county, -passes principally through oak openings, which are occasionally -intersected with prairies.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hillsdale.</span>—This county is attached to Lenawee. The north part -of it is principally oak openings of a good quality, but the southern -part is heavily wooded with sugar maple, whitewood, beech, black<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span> -walnut, ash, &c. The face of this county is rather uneven and the soil -in general consists of a rich black loam. The southern part is timbered -land. This county is well supplied with water. The St. Joseph's of -lake Michigan, as well as the St. Joseph's of Maumee, the Grand river, -Tiffin's and the river Raisin all head in this county, and with their -numerous branches water it in a beautiful manner.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Leanewee County</span>—contains at present about fifteen hundred -inhabitants. The northern part of this county has much the same -appearance as Washtenaw, but the southern part is principally timbered -land. It contains a tamerack swamp of considerable extent in the -southeast corner, yet notwithstanding, the character of its soil -and climate is, generally, very inviting. It is principally watered -by the Ottawa creek, Tiffin's and Raisin rivers and their branches. -It contains two villages each with a mill on their borders, namely, -Tecumseh and Adrian—the former of which is the seat of justice for the -county. It is situate at the junction of Landman's creek with the river -Raisin, and lies about fifty-five miles southwest of Detroit.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Barry, Eaton and Ingham Counties</span>—lie on Grand river and -its tributaries. This is the largest river in the peninsula. It -empties into lake Michigan, two hundred and forty-five miles south of -Michilimackinac, and forty-five miles north of the mouth of St. Joseph, -is sixty rods wide at its mouth, and has sufficient depth of water to -admit vessels<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span> drawing eight feet. On its south bank, near its entrance -into the lake, is a pleasant situation for a town, the land being -excellent, and gently inclining to the north and west, giving at the -same time a fine view of the river and lake; but the opposite shore at -the same place has a sandy, sterile appearance.</p> - -<p>For about sixty miles up this river, on the north side, the Ottawas -hold possession. There are between eight and nine hundred of these -people living along Grand river and its tributaries, but many of their -most populous villages are on land now belonging to the United States.</p> - -<p>This river is the largest stream that waters the west part of the -peninsula of Michigan, being two hundred and seventy miles in length, -its windings included, and navigable two hundred and forty miles for -batteaux; receiving in its course a great number of tributary streams, -among which are Portage, Red Cedar, Looking Glass, Soft Maple, Muscota, -Flat, Rouge and Thorn Apple rivers. All of these, except the last -named, put in on the right bank of the Grand river. Its south branch -rises in the open country, near the source of the Raisin, and after -pursuing a winding course of thirty miles, meets with the Portage -river, which comes in from the east and intersects the above branch in -town two south of range one west.</p> - -<p>Portage river, which has its course through a chain of low marshy -prairies, is a deep, muddy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span> stream, about fifteen yards wide at its -mouth. Its branches interlock with those of the Huron of lake Erie, and -the Indians pass from the former into the latter, with their canoes, -by crossing a portage of one mile and a half. It is probable that -at no distant period, a canal will be constructed near the route of -these two rivers, so as to afford a safe and easy inland communication -between lakes Erie and Michigan. The distance from Detroit to the -mouth of Grand river, by way of Michilimackinac, is five hundred and -sixty miles. This route in the spring and fall is attended with much -uncertainty; and, in case of a war with the English, the navigation -of the straits of Detroit and St. Clair would be rendered doubly -dangerous. These difficulties would be obviated by a communication by -water, through the interior. The land at the Portage rises forty or -fifty feet above the level of the streams on each side; but a level -prairie two or three miles to the west of that place, is said to extend -from one river to the other.</p> - -<p>From the junction of the Portage and south branches, this river pursues -a northwest course till it meets with Soft Maple river, in town seven -north of range six west; receiving in that distance Red Cedar and -Looking Glass rivers from the east, and Grindstone, Red and Sebewa -creeks from the south and southwest.</p> - -<p>Grindstone creek, so named from a sandstone ledge through which it -runs, empties into the river<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span> about twenty miles below the mouth of the -Portage branch. It is twenty miles long, affording several good sites -for mills, and runs mostly through an open beautiful country; but is in -some instances skirted with bottoms of heavy timbered land.</p> - -<p>From the mouth of this creek to that of Looking Glass river, a distance -of forty-five miles in a direct line, the Grand river runs through -a tract of timbered land, which is several miles in extent on each -side, abounding in creeks and springs of water, and bearing a growth -of maple, basswood, cherry, oak, ash, whitewood, elm, black walnut, -butternut, and some other kinds in lesser quantities. Below Looking -Glass river, for forty or fifty miles, tracts of open land are found -along the banks, but extensive forests immediately in the rear. The -river bottoms are from a quarter of a mile to one mile in width, and -the timbered lands are covered with a rank growth of rushes, (Equisetum -hyemale) on which the Indians keep their horses during the winter. It -is found that cattle and horses do better on these rushes, than when -kept on hay; and it would seem from their abundance, that nature here -intended them as a substitute for that article. The surface of the land -after leaving the river bottoms is rolling; and it rises sufficiently -high to give rapidity to the numerous creeks that so abundantly -irrigate this part of the country.</p> - -<p>Red Cedar river is thirty-five yards wide, and puts in about midway -between Grindstone creek and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span> Looking Glass river. It rises in -Washtenaw and Shiawassee counties, and can be ascended in small boats -twenty-five or thirty miles. A few miles below the mouth of this -stream, is a ledge of sandstone, which forms a perpendicular wall -of twenty-five or thirty feet in height, on each side of the river. -This ledge consists of square blocks of stone, of a suitable size to -be used in building, and which are rendered more valuable, from the -circumstance of their being on the banks of a large navigable river, -which with its tributaries, will facilitate its transportation to -various sections of the territory.</p> - -<p>A bed of iron ore has been discovered in the northeast bank of the -river immediately below this ledge; and, indeed, many of the stones in -the lower part of the ledge, have a great resemblance to blocks of cast -iron—presenting a rusty surface, very dense, and when broken, have, in -a striking degree, the color and appearance of iron itself.</p> - -<p>Four miles above the mouth of the Looking Glass river, is the village -of P'Shimnacon, (Apple land,) which is inhabited by eight or ten Ottawa -families, who have a number of enclosed fields in which they raise -corn, potatoes, and other vegetables usually cultivated by the Indians. -The village receives its name from Pyrus Coronaria, (Crab Apple,) which -grows in great abundance on the rich bottoms in its vicinity. Sebewa -creek puts into the river on the southwest side, one mile above this -village. It is about twenty miles long, sufficiently large for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span> mills, -and for the last four miles is very rapid, with a hard, stony bottom.</p> - -<p>Looking Glass river which is about forty yards wide, rises in -Shiawassee county, and can be ascended in canoes almost to its source. -The country near this river, for fifteen miles above its mouth, is what -may be termed first rate timbered land; but above that point it is of -an inferior quality, more open, and abounding in tamerack swamps and -wet prairies.</p> - -<p>It is about eight miles by land from the mouth of Looking Glass to -that of Soft Maple river, which is about sixty yards wide at its -entrance into Grand river. It heads in Shiawassee and Saginaw counties, -and runs nearly a due west course until it unites with Grand river, -at the Indian village of Chigau-mish-kene. This village consists of -twenty-five houses, and has a population of near two hundred souls -under the noted chief Cocoose. Here is about one thousand acres of -bottom land, of a deep, black soil, that has been cleared by the -Indians; a part of which they still occupy as planting ground; but the -land at this village, as well as that at P'Shimnacon, has been ceded -to the United States, and will no doubt, in a short time, be occupied -by an industrious white population. There is a large trail leading -from this village, by way of Shiawassee to Detroit, a distance of one -hundred and thirty miles.</p> - -<p>The Grand river here changes its course; and with the exception of -twelve miles in length, below<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span> Rouge river, runs nearly a west course -to lake Michigan.</p> - -<p>Two miles further down, is the entrance of Muscota river, (River of the -Plains,) which comes in from the north, with a rapid current, and is -about forty feet wide. The country through which it runs is but little -known, as no lands have been surveyed north of Grand river, below Soft -Maple.</p> - -<p>It is eighteen miles by land from the mouth of Muscota to that of -Co-cob-au-gwosh, or Flat river, with several considerable creeks -putting into Grand river, on each side, in the intermediate distance. -Ke-wa-goosh-cum's Indian village is situate immediately below the mouth -of Flat river, and consists of sixteen lodges. It is supposed that the -line between the United States and the Indian lands will intersect the -Grand river near this place.</p> - -<p>Flat river is a shallow stream, about eight rods wide; and in ascending -has a general course of north by northeast. Of the country along this -river, but little is at present known. It is reported, however, to be -of a hilly, broken aspect; and many places near its source, to abound -in lakes and swamps. There is a small lake that discharges its waters -into this river, about sixty miles above its mouth, in which it is -said by the Indians, that white fish are found in great numbers—a -circumstance that is rendered more extraordinary, from the fact that -this fish has never been seen near the mouth of Grand river, although -it is often taken near the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span> entrances of most of the other tributaries -of lake Michigan.</p> - -<p>It is ten miles from Flat to Thorn Apple river, which comes in from -the south, and, with its numerous tributaries, waters a large extent -of country. Its main branch rises in town two and three north of range -three west, and after running a westerly course for more than forty -miles, it takes a northward direction, in which it continues until it -empties into Grand river, in the south part of town seven north of -range two west.</p> - -<p>There is a suitable proportion both of open and timber land along this -stream, and a great part of each kind may be termed first rate. Two -Indian villages are situated at the distance of twenty and twenty-six -miles up this river, and another at its mouth, under the Ottawa chief -Nong-gee. The last mentioned village is inhabited by twelve or fourteen -families who are by far the most industrious and respectable band that -reside in that part of the country.</p> - -<p>Rouge river, is twenty miles, including the meanderings, northwest -of Thorn Apple river. It is about forty miles long, rising near the -sources of the Maskegon, and has its banks shaded by lofty forests of -white pine. From this place to Muck-a-ta-sha's village, a distance of -twelve miles, the Grand river pursues a south direction; after which it -runs nearly a due west course to lake Michigan.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span></p> - -<p>Six miles above the mouth of the last mentioned inlet, is a rapid of -one mile in length, where the river, which is here fifty-two rods wide, -is supposed to fall twenty-five feet. The banks at the head of the -rapid, are not more than four feet above the level of the river, and -they keep a horizontal level until you arrive at the foot of the rapid, -where they are nearly thirty feet above the water; and consequently -afford convenient opportunities for profitably appropriating a part -of the river, by means of a canal or sluice, to the use of mills or -machinery.</p> - -<p>There is a missionary establishment, (the Thomas station) at this -place, under the superintendence of the Rev. I. M'Coy. The mission -family at present consists of a school teacher, a blacksmith, and two -or three agriculturists. The school was open in the winter of 1827, and -now has about thirty Indian children, who receive their board, clothing -and tuition at the expense of the establishment.</p> - -<p>There is a trail leading southwest from the rapids to the Kalamazoo -river, and thence to the rivers Raisin and Huron. Another leads -directly to the mouth of Thorn Apple river, a distance of only ten -miles on the trail, but twenty-five round the curve of the river. The -country within this bend, excepting immediately along the river, is of -a rough, hilly character, a great part consisting of oak openings, of -a barren appearance, with a few scattering groves of white pine. Most -of the land, however, in the neighborhood of this tract, is of a good -qual<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</a></span>ity and timbered with all kinds that usually grow on rich alluvial -soils.</p> - -<p>There is a salt spring four miles below the rapids, which rises out -of the ground about half a mile from the river on the east side. The -water is said to be, both as to quantity and quality, sufficient to -warrant the establishment of works for the manufacturing of that useful -article. Near this place is also a bed of gypsum, of a fine quality, -which will probably, in time, be of great importance to agriculturists -in many of the western parts of Michigan.</p> - -<p>Muck-a-ta-sha, or Blackskin's village, is six miles below the rapids, -and is near the bend of the river, on an elevated prairie. There is -also another village twenty miles lower down the river. From the rapids -to the lake, a distance of thirty-six miles, the river is no where less -than four feet deep. The current at the former place is too powerful -to be ascended with loaded boats. The country along the river for the -first fifteen or twenty miles above the lake is generally level, and in -many instances swampy, with lofty forests, of various kinds of timber, -and bearing an almost impenetrable thicket of undergrowth.</p> - -<p>The country watered by the Grand river, consists of between six and -seven thousand square miles; and considering its central position -in the territory, the general fertility of the soil on the several -branches of that stream, the convenience of a safe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span> and good harbor at -its mouth, together with its many other important natural advantages, -we may be fully justified in the opinion, that it will, at no very -distant period, become one of the most important sections of Michigan.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph3"> -SKETCH</p> -<p class="ph5">OF THE</p> -<p class="ph2"><a id="TEXIAN_REVOLUTION"></a>TEXIAN REVOLUTION.</p> - - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="First_Campaign" id="First_Campaign">First Campaign.</a></p> - - -<p>As the inhabitants of Texas are chiefly emigrants from the United -States, and have buckled on their armor in a contest for liberty -and independence, it is natural that Americans should feel a strong -sympathy in their behalf. The sons of freedom can never be indifferent -and unconcerned, in a struggle between liberty and despotic power, -however remote the theatre of action; but when such a war is waged by -their neighbors and friends, and Freedom the prize to be lost or won, -the deep feeling pervading American breasts, cannot be suppressed.</p> - -<p>When Centralism was established, the State governments annihilated, -and Santa Anna, by aid of the priests and the army, proclaimed himself -monarch of Mexico, united Texas arose as one man, to oppose the -usurpation. Although an infant of but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span> yesterday, and but slightly -armed for battle, yet she has a vigorous arm, and a heart that will -never quail before the minions of despotic power. Relying upon the -justice of her cause, and calling upon the friends of liberty for -aid, she goes forth undismayed, to meet the giant strength of Mexico -combined.—Her call for aid, has been heard throughout the Mississippi -valley, and along the whole Atlantic coast, and has been fully -answered. Soldiers, arms, ammunition and treasure have poured into -Texas from all quarters; and in number and quantity, equal to the -exigency of the case. Texas has gloriously triumphed. The invading foe -has been completely routed—her first campaign is ended, and not a -hostile band is found upon her soil.</p> - -<p>In order to understand the situation of Texas, and the causes of the -present civil war, it is necessary briefly to advert to the history of -the Mexican Republic. It is well known, that the Province of Mexico had -a long and severe struggle to throw off the Spanish yoke, and to become -independent of Old Spain. At length, a constitution was formed, after -the model of that of the United States, and a Republican government -established. In 1824, Iturbide overthrew this Republican government, -established an Empire, and placed himself at its head.—His reign was -of but short duration. The army, under the lead and direction of three -military chieftains, named Victoria, Bravo and Santa Anna, the very -person who is now playing the game of Empe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span>ror, made a prisoner of -Iturbide, banished him with an annuity of twenty-five thousand dollars, -and restored the constitution. After passing a year in Europe, Iturbide -returned to Mexico to recover his Empire, but was taken prisoner and -shot.</p> - -<p>The republic was continued with frequent commotions and revolutions. -On one occasion Pedrassa, a civilian, was fairly elected President, -in a contest with Gen. Guerrero. Guerrero denounced Pedrassa, placed -himself at the head of the army, succeeded in expelling Pedrassa from -the country, and was made President by the force of his bayonets. -The people soon became discontented, insurrection spread over the -country, Guerrero was in turn compelled to yield, and was finally taken -prisoner, condemned and shot as a traitor. The succeeding faction -of Bustamente was in turn put down, and after various commotions by -contending factions, Santa Anna contrived, with the aid of the Army and -Clergy to unite the interests of Church and State, and to place himself -at the head of the government. The old constitution was annulled, and -Santa Anna was acknowledged as Chief of a Central Government. The State -Governments were merged in Centralism, and Santa Anna is to all intents -and purposes Monarch of Mexico.</p> - -<p>At this conjuncture of affairs, all the States and Territories -submitted to the overwhelming power of the Dictator, but Texas. This -province having been peopled by emigrants from the United States,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span> by -a people accustomed to free institutions,—revolted at the idea of -despotism, and they nobly resolved not to come under the yoke, but to -establish an independent Government of their own. This is a simple -statement of the case, and their cause is one that is calculated -to enlist the sympathies of the people of this country. Since the -determination of the people of Texas has been known, it is understood -that several other Mexican States have shown disaffection to the -Central Government, and, judging from the vicissitudes of the past, it -may be safely predicted, that in the course of another year or two, -Santa Anna himself will be expelled, or shot, and the Constitution -restored.</p> - -<p>But lest the cause in which the Texians are now engaged, may not be -fully understood, let us state a parallel case. Suppose that the -President and Congress should abrogate the constitution of the United -States, abolish all the State governments, and establish Romanism as -the religion of the country: and if the governor of any State attempted -to exercise any authority, send an armed force to arrest and imprison -him. What would the people of the several States say to this? Would -they tamely submit, as though they had no cause of complaint; or would -they not rather, rise <i>en masse</i>, assert their rights, and put down -these high-handed usurpers, at the point of the bayonet? Most assuredly -they would.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span></p> - -<p>Many of the States have been thrown into violent commotion, and even -resorted to arms, for causes immeasurably less, than that of the -Texians. The State of Maine were aroused to a man, because the British -Government attempted to exercise jurisdiction over a strip of the -wilderness and a few log houses, on her eastern border. The State of -New-Hampshire called an army into the field, to support her doubtful -title, to the unimportant settlement of Indian Stream. The State of -Georgia rose to arms, because the Indians did not give up their lands, -quite so soon as they expected. The States of Ohio and Michigan have -long been in a feverish excitement, and have resorted to arms, on a -simply legal question, which State shall exercise jurisdiction over a -few thousand acres of land. And the people of the whole United States -were thrown into a violent commotion, on the question, whether slavery -should be tolerated in the State of Missouri.</p> - -<p>And can it be thought strange by Americans, so jealous of their -own rights, that the Texians are alarmed to see their constitution -annulled, their State government subverted, and all the dearest rights -which civilized man holds dear, put in jeopardy? Is it a matter of -wonder, that they have appealed to arms, cast an anxious look to -American freemen, and sent forth their spirit-stirring appeals for aid? -To such an appeal, Americans cannot<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span> turn a deaf ear; nor will they -stand with folded arms, and see the battle rage.</p> - -<p>Under the constitution of 1824, Mexico was a confederated republic, -after the model of the United States, having a President, Vice -President, Senate and House of Representatives, as a central -government, and separate governments for each State, and provincial -governments for certain Territories, in all material respects similar -to the institutions of this country.</p> - -<p>Under this organization, Texas and Coahuila were formed into one State -of the Mexican Confederacy; but as the one was settled by Americans, -and the other by Spaniards, there never has been much harmony and good -feeling between them. It has long been an object of strong desire among -the people of Texas, to be disjoined from Coahuila, and formed into -a separate State. To accomplish this desirable object, Col. Austin -was appointed an agent to the Congress at Mexico, near the close of -1833. After spending some months at the seat of government, and making -various efforts to have Texas formed into an integral State, separate -from Coahuila, despairing of being able to accomplish it, in the then -distracted state of affairs, he started to return home. He had not -proceeded far, before he was arrested on a charge of high treason, -carried back to Mexico, and imprisoned. For a time, he was kept in -close confinement; and then, let out under bonds to keep within the -limits of the city. He had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</a></span> been a prisoner more than a year, being -unable to obtain either a trial or a release, when the government was -subverted, and Centralism established.</p> - -<p>Santa Anna, becoming alarmed at the public meetings, and show of -opposition in Texas, concluded to release Col. Austin, and send him -as a special messenger, to allay the excitement. He requested him to -state to the Texians, that he felt deeply interested in their welfare; -and that in the new organization of the government, he would use his -influence to give to the people of Texas, such laws and regulations as -were suited to their habits and situation.</p> - -<p>Col. Austin faithfully delivered this message to the people of Texas, -at a public dinner given to welcome his return, on the eighth of -October last. But it was now too late to listen to the fair promises of -Santa Anna. The country was in a state of extraordinary excitement, and -on the eve of a revolution. Santa Anna, it seems, could threaten and -punish, as well as conciliate and persuade. He arrested the Governor -of Coahuila and Texas,—threatened an invasion—the confiscation and -sale of a large tract of settled territory—and an imposition of heavy -taxes upon the commerce of the country. The people of Texas aroused to -the defence of their constitutional rights, and to resist oppression. -They held to the constitution of 1824, and refused to adopt Centralism. -Public meetings were held in all the principal towns and villages. At -Co<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span>lumbia, Harrisburg, Velasco, Brazoria and San Felipe, resolutions -were adopted, expressive of indignation at the proceedings of Santa -Anna and the General Government, and of a determination to resist -them. Committees of safety were appointed, and a general convention -called. By the aid of Col. Austin and Gen. Houston of St. Augustine, -forces were organized to repel the threatened invasion. Col. Austin by -the assistance of others, raised a regiment of six or seven hundred -riflemen; and Gen. Houston, by the aid of volunteers from the United -States, was soon enabled to take the field, at the head of as many more.</p> - -<p>Santa Anna, in the mean time, was not idle.—He concentrated his forces -at Saltillo under the command of General Cos. After the army had become -organized and in sufficient force, Gen. Cos marched to San Antonio, and -took possession of the town. Another force was stationed at Goliad, -sixty miles south of San Antonio.</p> - -<p>To enforce the revenue laws, Santa Anna sent an armed schooner, -called the Correo, under the command of Capt. Thompson, to the mouth -of the Brazos river. This schooner, joined by a small armed sloop, -attacked the schooner San Felipe, a regular trader between the Brazos -and New-Orleans commanded by Capt. Hurd. This was about the first of -September. It appears from a statement signed by the passengers of the -San Felipe, that the Correo had fired at a steamboat while engaged -in lighting the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span> American brig Tremont, lying at anchor off the bar, -previously to her attack on the San Felipe.</p> - -<p>As soon as the steamboat had gone inside the bar, the Correo was joined -by a small armed sloop, and both stood for the San Felipe, and opened -fire upon her without ceremony, the moment they arrived within shot. -But Captain Hurd, suspecting their intention to be of a hostile nature, -from their first appearance, and having arms on board, gallantly gave -battle and put them to flight, after a combat which lasted nearly an -hour.</p> - -<p>The next morning, the Correo was discovered about five miles distant, -upon which she was chased by the San Felipe, (towed by the steamboat,) -and overtaken and obliged to surrender.</p> - -<p>The first battle fought on the land was on the second day of October -1835, near the town of Gonzales; and from this circumstance, it has -obtained the enviable distinction, of being the Lexington of Texas. The -circumstances attending the commencement of hostilities, ought to be -stated with some minuteness.</p> - -<p>Some years since, when Gonzales, the capital of De Witt's Colony, -was exposed to the depredations of the Indians, the people there -applied to the authorities of San Antonio for a piece of artillery to -protect that frontier. The application was granted; and they obtained -a brass six pounder. This was kept for defence until the settlement -became strong—and afterwards it lay about the streets<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span> upon the -ground, (unmounted) and served to make a noise whenever the people got -into a merry frolic. The military commandant of San Antonio, (Col. -Ugartechea,) two or three weeks previous, feeling sufficiently strong -to make an attack upon the Colonies, demanded the gun. The people took -the matter into consideration. The gun was once the property of the -King of Spain; and he lost it with the sovereignty of the country. The -Federal Republic of Mexico became the owner. The people of Gonzales -returned for answer, in substance, that the gun was the property of -the Confederation which they acknowledged, and not of the Central -government, which they did not acknowledge; and they would not give it -up to any officer of the Central Government.</p> - -<p>Ugartechea ordered a detachment of his troops to march seventy-six -miles, and take the gun by force. The colonies assembled to oppose him. -Expresses were despatched to all parts of the country. The news flew -with the speed of the race horse. The people rose to arms—and marched -for the battle field.</p> - -<p>Gonzales is situated on the eastern bank of the river Gaudaloupe, -150 miles west of San Felipe; and on the twentieth of September, the -detachment of troops from San Antonio, about two hundred in number, -made their appearance on the western bank of the river, opposite the -town. They attempted the passage of the river, but after a sharp<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span> -skirmish, were repulsed by eighteen men, the whole force then at -Gonzales. The enemy retired a short distance, and encamped on the mound -at De Witt's. On the first of October, about 12 o'clock, they took -up their march and encamped about seven miles above this place, in a -very strong position. Suspecting that their object in this movement -was either to wait for a reinforcement from San Antonio, or to cross -at the upper crossing, about fifteen miles above, it was determined -to attack them before their plans could be carried into execution. -Accordingly, on the same night, the whole force on foot, amounting then -to about one hundred and sixty men, from the Gaudaloupe, Colorado, and -La Baca, commanded by Col. J.H. Moore, crossed the river, attacked the -enemy about day break, and put them to flight without the loss of a -single man.—Thirty or forty of the enemy were reported to have been -killed and wounded. This was a brilliant commencement of the Texian -Revolutionary War.</p> - -<p>The next, and more important battle, took place on the ninth of -October, and resulted in the capture of the fort and town of Goliad. -The attacking party were a company of volunteers, from the fertile -banks of the Caney, and from the town of Matagorda—a place destined to -become an important city, situated at the mouth of the Colorado river.</p> - -<p>Before this party entered the field, most of the volunteers were at -Gonzales—and fearing that the harvest of honors would be reaped before -they could<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span> arrive there—they struck off from La Baca with the daring -determination of taking Goliad by surprise.</p> - -<p>Goliad is situated on the southwest side of the San Antonio river, -thirty leagues below Bexar, and it is fifteen leagues from Copano, the -landing place of Aransas bay, and about the same distance from the La -Baca and of Matagorda bay. The fort is built upon the point of a very -steep hill, formed of rocks, with a deep ravine upon one side and a -low prairie upon the opposite—while a broad elevated prairie extends -towards the southwest.</p> - -<p>The walls of the fort are of stone and lime, and bear in many places -the marks of the storms of an hundred winters, but are still proof -against any thing less than the batterings of heavy artillery.</p> - -<p>A long forced march brought the van guard of the colonists to the San -Antonio river ford, below the town, at 11 o'clock on the night of the -ninth of October. Here they halted for the main body, and to make -arrangements for the attack. A very small party were sent into the -town, and they brought out, with the utmost secrecy, a worthy citizen -friendly to the constitution of 1824. And by his assistance guides were -produced perfectly acquainted with the place.</p> - -<p>The main body of the colonists missed their road in the night, -and before they found out their mistake, were at the upper ford, -immediately opposite the town. They then struck across, for a short -cut, to the position occupied by the van guard. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span> route lay through -a muskeet thicket. The muskeet is a tree of the locust family, full -of thorns, and at a short distance resembles the common peach tree in -size and appearance. While the parties were treading their way in this -thicket, the horse of one of them started in affright at an object -beneath a bush. The rider checked his horse and said, who's there? A -voice answered in Spanish. One of the party supposed that he recognized -in the voice an old acquaintance of Goliad, asked if it was not he, -mentioning his name. "No," was the reply, "my name is Milam."</p> - -<p>Col. Milam is a native of Kentucky. At the commencement of the -Mexican war of independence, he engaged in the cause, and assisted in -establishing the independence of the country. When Iturbide assumed the -purple, Milam's republican principles placed him in fetters—dragged -him to the city of Mexico, and confined him in prison until the usurper -was dethroned. When Santa Anna assumed the dictatorship, the republican -Milam was again thrust into the prison at Monterry. But his past -services and sufferings wrought upon the sympathies of his hard-hearted -jailors.</p> - -<p>They allowed him the luxury of the bath. He profited by the indulgence -and made arrangements with an old compatriot, to place a fleet horse -suitably equipped upon the bank of the stream, at a time appointed. -The colonel passed the sentinel<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span> as he was wont to go into the -water—walked quietly on—mounted the horse and fled.</p> - -<p>Four hundred miles would place him in safety. The noble horse did his -duty, and bore the colonel clear of all pursuit to the place where the -party surprised him. At first he supposed himself in the power of his -enemy—but the English language soon convinced him, that he was in the -midst of his countrymen.</p> - -<p>He had never heard that Texas was making an effort to save herself. -No whisper of the kind had been allowed to pass the grates of his -prison.—When he learned the object of the party, his heart was full. -He could not speak for joy.</p> - -<p>When the company arrived at the lower ford, they divided themselves -into four parties of twelve men each. One party remained as a guard -with the horses. The other three, each with a guide, marched by -different routes to the assault.</p> - -<p>Their axes hewed down the door where the colonel commanding the place -slept—and he was taken a prisoner from his bed. A sentinel hailed, -and fired. A rifle ball laid him dead upon the spot.—The discharge of -fire arms and the noise of human voices now became blended. The Mexican -soldiers fired from their quarters, and the blaze of their guns served -as targets for the colonist riflemen.</p> - -<p>The garrison were called to surrender, and the call was translated by a -gentleman present, who spoke the language. They asked for terms.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</a></span></p> - -<p>The interpreter now became the chief speaker. 'No,' answered he. -'They say they will massacre every one of you, unless you come out -immediately and surrender. Come out—come out quick—I cannot keep -them back—come out, if you wish to save your lives—I can keep them -back no longer.' 'O, do for God's sake keep them back,' answered -the Mexicans in their own language. 'We will come out and surrender -immediately,'—and they rushed out with all possible speed and laid -down their arms.</p> - -<p>And thus was the fort of Goliad taken—a fort which, with a garrison of -three hundred and fifty patriots in the war of 1812-13, withstood the -siege of an army of more than two thousand Spanish troops, and forced -them to retire, discomfited.</p> - -<p>At the capture of the fort, three Mexican soldiers were killed and -seven wounded; and one colonel, one captain, one lieutenant, with -twenty-one petty officers and privates were made prisoners—others of -the garrison escaped in the dark and fled.</p> - -<p>In the fort were found two pieces of brass cannon, five hundred muskets -and carbines, six hundred spears, with ammunition and provisions.</p> - -<p>One of the colonists, only, was wounded in the shoulder.</p> - -<p>Col. Milam assisted in the capture of the fort, and then he spoke:—"I -assisted Mexico to gain her independence; I have spent more than twenty -years of my life in her service; I have endured heat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span> and cold, hunger -and thirst; I have borne losses and suffered persecutions; I have been -a tenant of every prison between this and Mexico—but the events of -this night have compensated me for all my losses and all my sufferings."</p> - -<p>The colonists were commanded by Gen. M. Collingsworth—but it would be -difficult to find in the company, a man not qualified for the command.</p> - -<p>Goliad is of vastly more importance in a military point of view, than -San Antonio, as the latter is in a valley upon the banks of the river, -and commanded by the hills on each side, and is therefore indefensible.</p> - -<p>The news of the capture of Goliad was hailed with enthusiastic joy -throughout Texas. A general enthusiasm prevailed. Col. Austin, elected -General of the volunteer forces, made his head quarters at Gonzales, -one hundred and fifty miles west of San Felipe, and seventy-five miles -east of San Antonio. A declaration of rights under the constitution of -1824 was published, and circulated throughout the country.</p> - -<p>On the thirteenth of October, Gen. Austin, as commander-in-chief, left -Gonzales with the main army, for San Antonio. On the twentieth, a -division arrived at Salada, within five miles of San Antonio. On their -march, they came in contact with the advanced guard of the enemy, who -retired at their approach. On the twenty-seventh, a detachment of Gen. -Cos' cavalry, out on a foraging ex<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span>pedition, were attacked by a party -of Texians, and by them defeated with the loss of thirty-five horses, -and suffering in killed and wounded to the number of fifty men. The -loss of the Texians, three men slightly wounded.</p> - -<p>Cos' detachment of cavalry consisted of about one hundred and fifty -men, which, before the engagement was concluded, were re-inforced by -one hundred and fifty infantry; the party of Texians employed in the -assault amounting to about the same number.</p> - -<p>On the twenty-eighth, a detachment of ninety men, under the command of -Col. Jas. Bowie and Capt. Fanning, advanced and took possession of a -church, within a mile and a half of San Antonio. The Mexicans to the -number of three hundred cavalry and one hundred infantry, under the -command of Col. Utartacher, sallying out from the city, made an attack -upon Bowie's forces, and after an engagement of three hours duration, -were repulsed with the loss of one piece of artillery and forty -muskets, leaving eighteen men dead upon the field. The only loss on the -side of the Texians, was one man mortally wounded, and a few horses. -The main body of the army came up soon after the enemy had retired.</p> - -<p>Gen. Austin, that there might be no mistake respecting the principles -upon which he acted, sent a communication to Gen. Cos, by a Mexican, -stating that he was supporting the principles of the consti<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span>tution of -1824, and inquiring how his flag would be received? His reply was, -"disband your forces, return home peaceably, and then perhaps I will -listen to your petitions; at present I can only regard you as rebels -and traitors."</p> - -<p>In the mean time, something like a regular army, composed of Texians -and volunteer companies from the United States, was organized, and Gen. -Houston, formerly Governor of Tennessee, and for some years a resident -in Texas, was appointed the commander. On his arrival at Gonzales, the -force under his command amounted to about a thousand men.</p> - -<p>The Texian army, at length, concentrated their forces, and besieged -the town of San Antonio.—This is a walled town, containing three -thousand five hundred inhabitants. Gen. Cos found himself in a critical -situation. His army amounted to about a thousand men, but the besieging -army pressed him so close, he was obliged to keep within the walls of -the town. He soon became in want of provisions, but he was too closely -watched to obtain a supply. The besiegers believing he would be forced -to surrender without a battle, concluded patiently to wait the event.</p> - -<p>In this state of the case, it was thought advisable to send -commissioners to the United States, with plenary power to negotiate -loans, &c., in preparation for another campaign. Gen. Austin and -Messrs. Archer and Wharton were accordingly ap<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span>pointed. Edward -Burlisson was elected to fill the vacancy occasioned by the resignation -of Gen. Austin, and W.H. Jack was promoted to the second in command.</p> - -<p>The commissioners immediately left the army, and proceeded to the -United States. They arrived at New-Orleans on the third day of January, -and succeeded in effecting a loan there of two hundred thousand -dollars. They then started up the Mississippi river, intending to visit -the seat of government at Washington.</p> - -<p>The Texian army besieged San Antonio more than a month; during which -time, the Mexican forces were confined strictly within the walls of the -city. The moment a sentinel ventured without, he was shot by some of -the riflemen. The garrison became almost destitute of provisions, and -the surrender of the place was anticipated daily.</p> - -<p>At this juncture, news arrived, that a large reinforcement of Mexican -troops were near at hand, to relieve the garrison. This determined the -besieging army to storm the city immediately. It was on the sixth day -of December last, when the assault commenced. The brave Col. Milam, -at the head of three hundred choice troops, led the attack.—The -assault was so sudden and vehement, that neither walls nor men could -successfully oppose it. After a sharp conflict, in which the assailants -performed wonders, the city was gallantly taken, and the garrison -made prisoners. This had hardly been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</a></span> accomplished, when the Mexican -reinforcement came up, just in time to lay down their arms to the -victors. By this victory, twelve hundred men were made prisoners; and -the Texians obtained two thousand stands of arms, thirty pieces of -cannon, and a large amount of military stores, camp-equipments and -horses, estimated to be worth five hundred thousand dollars. The loss -of the enemy in killed and wounded, we have never seen stated;—on the -part of the Texians, fifteen were wounded, and the brave Col. Milam -and four others, killed. Col. Milam was mainly instrumental in the -complete success of the assault, and fell a victim to his own zeal and -intrepidity. The death of this estimable man, turned the joy of victory -into sadness. Like the lamented Warren of Bunker Hill, he fell early in -his country's struggle for independence;—and like him, his untimely -exit was deeply deplored.</p> - -<p>A native of Kentucky, he possessed in an eminent degree, the chivalry -and noble bearing, so conspicuous in the land of his birth. In early -life, he left his native State. He was the intrepid commander of the -steamboat, that first threaded the mazes of Red river, beyond the -great raft. At the commencement of the severe contest in Mexico, to -throw off the Spanish yoke, he was engaged in her cause. In the many -sanguinary battles with the armies of Spain and savage Indians, during -that long and bloody war, he was engaged, and shone conspicuous. A -noble spirited and an unyielding<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span> patriot himself, he found at last, -to his sorrow and regret, that the people, whom he aided to establish -independence, were unworthy of the cause in which they were engaged. -They did not understand the true principles of liberty, and knew not -the value of its blessings. No sooner were they freed from foreign -oppression, than anarchy and confusion reigned at home. Revolutions and -counter-revolutions rapidly succeeded each other; and the unyielding -Milam, alternately became a favorite and a prisoner. He had so many -times been arrested and released, that he had been a tenant of every -prison, from Texas to the city of Mexico. When restored to favor, by a -fortunate turn of the revolutionary wheel, rewards were offered him. -But his sufferings only were real; his rewards but mocked his vision. -Like the rainbow in the heavens, they fled at his approach.</p> - -<p>Years ago, he obtained a grant for a colony, on the south bank of the -beautiful Colorado, a hundred miles from its mouth; but before he could -make arrangements for its settlement, the grant was annulled, and he -imprisoned. Misfortune seems to have marked him for her game. For a -series of years, as if the intention were to mock and tantalize him, -his grant would be alternately cancelled and confirmed.</p> - -<p>Near the close of the year 1834, when the writer of this sketch saw him -in Texas, his grant had been renewed under favorable auspices, and the -prospect<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span> before him appeared unusually flattering. But it was only the -calm, bright sunshine, that precedes the tempest. He had hardly made -arrangements to people his colony, and settle down in quiet repose, -after so many years of disappointment, toil and suffering, when another -revolution brought Santa Anna into power, and the patriot Milam was -again arrested and thrust into the prison of Monterry!</p> - -<p>But in all the changes of fortune, whether favorable or adverse, he -never abjured his principles.—The unconquerable love of liberty, that -animated him throughout his whole career, never once forsook him. His -spirit never quailed before the minions of power—his courage never -abated—and his vigorous arm never tired.</p> - -<p>By stratagem, he escaped from his prison, just in time to render -efficient aid in the capture of Goliad; and then, he hastened on to -San Antonio, where he gloriously fell in the arms of victory—a martyr -to the cause he had, with a steady aim, so nobly espoused and ably -defended. But his memory will live in the hearts of a gallant people; -and, in after times, his name will be duly honored in the celebration -of their victories, and in their songs of triumph.</p> - -<p>The capture of San Antonio completed the triumph of the Texian -arms. Not an armed Mexican soldier could then be found in her -territory.—Gen. Cos was released on his parole of honor, not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</a></span> to serve -during the war, unless regularly exchanged; the other officers and -soldiers were retained prisoners of war.</p> - -<p>We have now given an account of all the battles fought within the -limits of Texas; but it may be proper to add some account of Gen. -Mexia's expedition against Tampico.</p> - -<p>On the sixth day of November last, one hundred and thirty men, chiefly -Americans, embarked at New-Orleans on board the schooner Mary Jane for -Texas. It was understood, that this vessel had been chartered by a -committee, to convey emigrants to that country; and on their arrival, -it was to be optional with them, whether they joined the Texian army, -or not. Gen. Mexia and his staff were on board this vessel: but no -intimation was given to the passengers, that the vessel had any other -destination than Texas, until they arrived off the port of Tampico. -They were then told, by Capt. Hawkins, one of Gen. Mexia's aids, that -the object was to capture Tampico—and the passengers were urged to -join the General's standard. About fifty only, most of whom were -French and Creoles of New-Orleans, were induced to join his standard. -A steamboat took the vessel in tow, but, in attempting to run into -the port in the night, they both struck the north breakers. In this -critical situation, efforts were made to land the passengers, which -at much risk was at length effected, during the latter part of the -night and early in the morning. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span> fort, at the mouth of the harbor, -surrendered without an attack. Arms and ammunition were then tendered -to the party. Some took them from curiosity, some from necessity, -and others on compulsion. Most of the Americans, on account of the -deception practiced upon them, in landing at Tampico instead of Texas, -were determined not to fight, but to surrender themselves prisoners the -first opportunity.</p> - -<p>The next day, the party, to the number of one hundred and eighty, -marched to attack the town; but meeting with a warmer reception than -they expected, they retreated to the fort. Here they found about thirty -missing—all but two or three having deserted on the retreat. The -General, deeming it advisable to leave the place, embarked with his men -on board the schooner Halcyon, bound to Brazoria in Texas.</p> - -<p>The deserters were taken prisoners the next day, by a company of -horse, and imprisoned. After remaining in prison about a month, they -were tried by a court martial; and although all these facts appeared -at the trial, they were all condemned to be shot! Some attempts were -made to avert their fate. A petition, signed by the prisoners and a -number of Mexicans, was sent to the Commandant of the place, but it -availed nothing. The sentence of death was promulgated to these hapless -victims of treachery, on the afternoon of Saturday; and at sunrise the -succeeding Monday, which was the four<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span>teenth day of December, they were -all brought out of prison, and shot! Twenty-eight men, many of them -mere youths, in a distant land, far away from friends, at a few hours -notice, butchered in cold blood! Humanity recoils at the perpetration -of such barbarous deeds as this. Such summary proceedings, dictated by -savage vengeance, cannot, on any ground, be either justified or excused.</p> - -<p>But such has been the character of the wars in South America, ever -since the Spanish Colonies strove to shake off the yoke of dependence, -for more than a quarter of a century. A war of extermination was -carried on by the Spaniards and the Patriots—no quarter was granted in -the field—the blood of prisoners was shed like water—and a recital -of the wanton cruelties and barbarities committed by both parties, -during this state of protracted hostility, would cause even the savage -to shudder with horror. These circumstances, as well as the whole -course of conduct of the Spaniards, in relation to the inhabitants of -the Leeward Islands, Mexico and Peru, are enough to establish their -character as the most cruel and sanguinary people on earth.</p> - -<p>We have mentioned that a large number of volunteers from the United -States had gone to Texas, to aid the people in their struggle for -independence. Three companies, numbering more than five hundred men, -went from New-Orleans. Cincinnati, Natchez and Mobile, each furnished -a company.—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span>And travellers state that they met small parties of -volunteers, continually on the road, hurrying on to assist the -Texians. Many of these arrived in time to be of much service in the -last campaign; but one company, from the city of New-York, owing to -the misconduct of a portion of them, were detained on the way; and, -probably, have not arrived in Texas.</p> - -<p>This party was Col. Stanly's regiment of volunteers, amounting to about -two hundred men. They started from New-York in the brig Madawaska, -about the middle of November. After ten day's sail, they found -themselves among the Bahama banks and islands. The Captain of the -brig, never having sailed the route before, became bewildered among -the islands. At length he made a harbor at the island of Eleuthera, -and sent a boat on shore containing seventeen men. On the island, they -found the inhabitants to consist principally of blacks. Having indulged -themselves pretty freely in spirits, and finding the inhabitants rather -weak and ignorant, they commenced hostilities upon their effects, such -as fowls, pigs, Indian meal, &c., and so terrified the people, that -they would do whatever they required. They commanded them with loaded -pistols at their heads, and threatened them with instant death if they -disobeyed.</p> - -<p>This indiscreet conduct of course occasioned an excited feeling, on -being made known at the English naval station at Nassau, and two gun -ships were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</a></span> immediately sent in pursuit, with strict orders to board -and put all to death, if any resistance was made. After cruising about -a week, one of the ships came up with the Madawaska, and made them -all prisoners, on a charge of piracy. They were carried into the port -of Nassau in New-Providence, and there put in prison. In the course -of a week, the matter was fully investigated, which resulted in the -discharge of all but Col. Stanley and ten others, who were detained -to await their trial for felony. The result of this trial is not now -known; but if found guilty, the punishment by the English laws is known -to be severe.</p> - -<p>The remaining incidents worthy of note, connected with the Texian -Revolution, may be stated in a few words. The General Consultation -convened at San Felipe on the fifteenth of October.—An address to the -people of the United States was adopted, appealing to our citizens for -aid. Strong appeals were also made by the Council to the patriotism -of the people of Texas. The Council then adjourned to the first of -November; but the people were so much engaged on the frontier, that no -meeting was held at that time.</p> - -<p>On the twenty-second day of December, a document was published at -Goliad, signed by a great number of persons, chiefly Americans, -declaring Texas "<i>a free, sovereign and independent State</i>." The -declaration enters somewhat at length into the condition of Texas, -deplores the leniency of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span> Texian government in permitting Cos to -capitulate, and affirms that many of the officers, civil and military, -are more ambitious of emoluments, than the good of the country. It -is furthermore stated, that there is more danger from the corrupting -influence of Santa Anna's gold, than from his bayonets. The necessity -of forming an independent sovereign State immediately, in order that -all her energies may be concentrated, is pointed out with great force.</p> - -<p>On the twenty-sixth of December, a decree of the provincial -Government was published, calling a Convention of Delegates from each -municipality, clothed with ample powers to adopt a permanent form of -government. The Delegates to be elected by the people; all free white -males, and Mexicans opposed to a central government, being entitled to -vote; and the volunteers in the army being allowed to vote by proxy. -The whole number of Delegates to be fifty-six, and the Convention to be -held at the town of Washington on the first of March.</p> - -<p>The Texians have been very active in raising an army to commence -another campaign; and it is believed, Gen. Houston was able to take -the field on the first of March, at the head of five or six thousand -men. The Texians, it is said, are in regular correspondence with -the large party in Mexico opposed to centralism. The whole republic -seems to be in a ferment. Gen. Mexia, who set out for Matamoras some -weeks ago, at the head of a consider<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</a></span>able force, intending to invade -the Mexican territory, was believed to have made himself master of -Tampico, whence he would act in concert with the Texians on the north, -and the revolting Mexicans on the south. It was currently reported at -Metamoras, that several of the most influential officers in the Mexican -army, had openly denounced centralism, and the state of things in the -republic was such, that Santa Anna would either be obliged to return to -the federal system, or abandon all hopes of power in Mexico.</p> - -<p>The true state of affairs in Mexico, however, it is difficult to -ascertain. There are only twenty-seven newspapers in the country, all -of which are in a state of subjection to Santa Anna. The only two -opposition journals were suppressed: the editor of one was banished to -California, to enjoy "the wolf's loud howl on Onolaska's shore;" the -other, Santangele, in spite of his name, was sent to the United States.</p> - -<p>The Supreme Government, under date of the thirtieth of December, caused -the following decree to be published and circulated in every district -of the Republic.</p> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">Art. 1.</span> All foreigners that may land in any port of the -Republic, or shall make their way into the interior, armed and with the -intention of attacking her territory, shall be regarded and punished as -pirates, considering that they do not belong to any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span> nation at war with -the Republic, and that they do not act under any recognized flag.</p> - -<p>"<span class="smcap">Art. 2.</span> Foreigners that land in any of our ports, or seek to -introduce arms and ammunition by land through any channel in a state of -insurrection against the government of the nation, and with the avowed -object of placing such implements of war in the hands of her enemies, -shall be treated and punished in the same manner."</p> - -<p>This decree will not be worth, to Santa Anna, the paper on which it is -written. It will not deter a single individual from carrying arms and -ammunition into Texas, or of joining its army. The sanguinary character -of the Spaniards is too well known and established, to ask or expect -any thing like clemency at their hands. The Americans needed not a -decree under hand and seal, to apprise them of the true character of -the Mexicans, when the history of the last twenty-five years is fresh -in remembrance.</p> - -<p>An embargo has also been laid, by order of the Mexican government, on -the ports of Tampico and Metamoras, against Mexican vessels; and on all -the ports of Mexico against American ships. No ingress nor egress from -the ports is now permitted. The foolish expedition planned by Mexia may -have led to this resort, as well as the state of affairs in Texas.</p> - -<p>Santa Anna, believing that the permanency of his own power depends -upon the subjugation of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span> Texas, is actively engaged in raising troops -for another campaign. It is reported that three or four thousand men, -under the command of Gen. Urrea, are on their way to the frontier. It -is also reported, that he has called to his aid the Comanches and other -tribes of Indians; and persuaded them to declare war against Texas; and -has promised them the territory of Texas as a reward. The Indians have -known the Spaniards too long to place any reliance upon their promises. -They may, indeed, excite them to a war; but it is as likely to prove -as disastrous to themselves, as to the Texians. The Indians are unsafe -allies. Like the war-elephants of ancient times, they often injure -friends more than foes. It is certain, that a deadly hatred has existed -for a long series of years, between the Spaniards and Indians; and it -is believed, no permanent friendship or alliance can be formed between -them. They have much more friendship for the Americans, than for the -Spaniards; and if they call them into action, it may prove disastrous -only to themselves. The Indians are as hard to direct and control, as -a fire on their own boundless prairies. The fire, uncontrolled by him -who kindles it, sweeps over the plain, where the wind happens to drive; -so the wild Indian, regardless of friend or foe, hurries on to kill and -plunder, where his savage fury happens to impel him. But on another -ground, Santa Anna had better take heed. Exciting the Indians to kill -and plunder, is a game that two can play at.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span> The Texians have greater -rewards to offer. They can promise them <i>all Mexico</i>, with its many -victims and much plunder.</p> - -<p>In conformity to the custom of nations, the Texians have adopted a -flag. It contains a number of stripes, and but a single star; and has -inscribed upon it the significant word, '<span class="smcap">Independence</span>.' On -the twenty-second day of January, the New-Orleans Greys paraded at -their encampment, near the mouth of the Brazos river, to display and -honor their flag. At the discharge of a signal gun, William Walker, -of Portsmouth, N.H., who signalized himself at the capture of San -Antonio, had the honor of running it up, for the first time, on a -stately flag-staff. The company presented arms, and fired a salute. -Just at this time, a volunteer company, on board the steamboat Yellow -Stone, from New-Orleans, came up the river, hailed the waving banner, -fired a salute, and gave three cheers as they passed. The arrival of -such efficient aid, at the moment the national flag was first unfurled, -was deemed a happy omen; and that it may continue to wave over Texas, -<i>independent</i> and <i>free</i>, is the fervent wish of every true son of -freedom.</p> - -<p>Post offices and mail routes have been established, and a Post Master -General appointed. The length of all these mail routes, taken together, -amount to about eight hundred miles. For a number of years, there has -been no mail connection between the United States and Texas; but as -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span> communication is now so great, regular mails will be established -between them.</p> - -<p>Texas is in a critical situation; but it is believed, her cause is far -from being desperate. Were Mexico united, and could she bring all her -force to bear upon the contest, with the activity and zeal of American -freemen, Texas would be crushed at a blow. Santa Anna's journals do -indeed say, that the whole country is united in the present form of -government, and perfect tranquillity prevails; but private letters -contradict this statement altogether. They inform us, that Generals -Bravo and Alvarez had united, taken the important town of Acapulco, on -the Pacific, denounced Santa Anna, and declared for the constitution. -In consequence of this movement, one hundred and fifty mules loaded -with money and ammunition, and five hundred men left the city of Mexico -for that quarter, about the last of January. It was believed, this news -would bring Santa Anna from Saltillo to the seat of government.</p> - -<p>From all accounts, it appears certain, that the Mexican army, three -thousand strong, have left their encampment at Saltillo, for the -frontier of Texas. It is formed into two divisions, the one commanded -by Sesma; the other, by Cos, and the chief in command is Gen. Urrea. It -is reported that a simultaneous attack upon Goliad and San Antonio, is -meditated. It is highly probable, the Tex<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span>ians are fully prepared for -their reception, and will be able to give a good account of them.</p> - -<p>The thin settled State of Texas, with a population of some fifty -thousand, comparatively, without arms and resources, and having no -organized government, engaging in a war with sixteen States, with a -population of eight millions, reminds one of the stripling David, going -out in the valley of Elah, to give battle to the Philistine of Gath. -It requires an unusual degree of boldness and daring, to form the -resolution, and to commence a war, with such an immense disparity of -force. But the race is not always to the swift, nor the battle to the -strong.</p> - -<p>The Texians, and the gallant spirits that have hastened to their aid -and rescue, compared in number with their enemy, are indeed but a -handful of men; but, like the Spartan band of former times, they have -lion-hearts and vigorous arms. What men dare, they dare! They have -staked their all upon the issue. They have drawn the sword, and thrown -away the scabbard. Exterminated they may be, but not subdued. Before -such a band, numbers are of no avail; before such opponents, well may -tyrants tremble.</p> - -<p>The first campaign has ended in the complete overthrow of the Mexican -force, in Texas. The whole course of the campaign has been signally -marked by a series of battles, and almost bloodless victories, on the -part of the Texians; and by con<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span>tinued defeat, loss and discomfiture on -the part of their enemy. The Mexicans have lost much, in men, arms and -treasure; and have won nothing but disgrace. Of honor, they had none to -lose.</p> - -<p>Santa Anna has thousands of men at his command, but they do not possess -the chivalrous spirit of the sons of freedom. Judging from the past, -<i>his</i> career may be short; but as his subjects know not the value of -liberty, and are not sufficiently educated for its rational enjoyment, -a long list of tyrants may rapidly succeed him. But light begins to -break in upon that benighted corner of the earth. The goddess of -liberty, who in former times tried her infant voice in the halls and -on the hills of New-England, utters it now, with a power that seems -to wake the dead, on the plains of Mexico, and along the sides of the -Andes.</p> - -<p>On the part of the Texians, the struggle may be long and severe. They -may be compelled to fight battle after battle, and obtain victory after -victory; and suffer also, many reverses and defeats, before the scene -of this awful tragedy closes. But it is confidently believed, that they -will finally succeed in their effort, to become an independent nation, -and to establish a free, elective government, based upon the equal -rights of the people.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="Second_Campaign" id="Second_Campaign">Second Campaign.</a></p> - - -<p>The second campaign commenced much sooner than was generally expected. -It was believed by the Texians, that after the complete and signal -overthrow of the Mexican forces in the first campaign, Santa Anna would -not be able to raise another invading army, and make his appearance -in Texas, before midsummer. In this, they were mistaken. Santa Anna, -believing that the stability of his own government depended upon a -vigorous prosecution of the war, by extraordinary exertions, raised an -army of five thousand men, and by forced marches was enabled to make -his appearance in Texas about the twentieth of February. This early and -unexpected appearance of an invading army, accounts for the fact, that -the Texians were so illy prepared for their reception.</p> - -<p>On the twenty third of February, Santa Anna, who, contrary to general -expectation, commanded in person, appeared before the town of San -Antonio, at the head of the advanced division of his army, amounting -to a thousand men. At this time, less than two thousand Texians were -in arms in the whole province. Of these, only a hundred and fifty -men, under the command of Col. W.B. Travis, were stationed at San -Antonio—five hundred men, under Col. Fanning, were at Goliad, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span> -hundred and twenty-five miles to the south; and one thousand men, under -Gen. Houston, at Gonzales, sixty miles to the east of this position.</p> - -<p>San Antonio de Bexar is situated on a branch of the San Antonio river, -which is here but a small stream, that can easily be crossed by slight -wooden bridges. Most of the dwelling houses are on the west side of the -river, but the fort is on the east side. This fort, called the Alamo, -or Elm Tree fort, covers two acres of ground, and is surrounded by a -thick stone wall, twenty feet high. Its position was injudiciously -selected. It is situated in a valley, having elevated positions in the -rear, from which balls may be thrown directly into the fort. It may -therefore, be deemed an indefensible fortress.</p> - -<p>On the arrival of this division, Santa Anna took possession of the -town, and demanded an unconditional surrender of the fort, or the whole -garrison would indiscriminately be put to the sword. The intrepid -Col. Travis answered this demand by a cannon shot. Immediately, a -bombardment from a five inch howitzer, and a heavy cannonade commenced, -which was continued for twenty-four hours. This was sustained by the -Texians without the loss of a single man, while they made a terrible -slaughter in the ranks of their besiegers. From five to six hundred of -the enemy are reported to have been killed and wounded.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</a></span></p> - -<p>About this time, a party of seventy men, under the command of Col. -Johnson, while reconnoitering to the westward of San Patricio, were -surrounded in the night, by a large body of Mexican troops. In the -morning, the commander sent in a summons to surrender at discretion, -which was refused; but an offer was made to surrender as prisoners of -war. This was acceded to by the Mexican officer; but no sooner had -the party marched out of their encampment, and stacked their arms, -than the mean, cowardly, blood-thirsty Mexicans commenced a general -fire upon the defenceless prisoners! An attempt was made to escape by -flight—three only effected it, among whom was Col. Johnson—the others -were shot down and basely murdered.</p> - -<p>On the twenty-fifth of February, an assault was made upon the fort, an -account of which, we give in the words of Col. Travis' despatch to Gen. -Houston:—</p> - -<p>"To-day at ten o'clock, A.M. some two or three hundred crossed the -river below, and came up under cover of the houses, until they arrived -within point blank shot, when we opened a heavy discharge of grape and -canister on them, together with a well directed fire from small arms, -which forced them to halt and take shelter in the houses about eighty -or a hundred rods from our batteries. The action continued to rage for -about two hours, when the enemy retreated in confusion, dragging off -their dead and wounded.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</a></span></p> - -<p>During the action, the enemy kept up a continual bombardment, and -discharge of balls, grape and canister. We know from observation, that -many of the enemy were killed and wounded—while we, on our part, have -not lost a man. Two or three of our men have been slightly scratched -by pieces of rock, but not disabled. I take great pleasure in stating, -that both officers and men, conducted themselves with firmness and -bravery.—Lieut. Simmons of the Cavalry, acting as Infantry, and -Captains Carey and Dickerson and Blair of the Artillery, rendered -essential services, and Chas. Despallier and Robert Brown, gallantly -sallied out and set fire to the houses, which afforded the enemy -shelter, in the face of the enemy's fire. Indeed the whole of the men, -who were brought into action, conducted themselves with such undaunted -heroism, that it would be injustice to discriminate. The Hon. David -Crockett was seen at all points, animating the men to do their duty. -Our numbers are few, and the enemy still continues to approximate his -works to ours. I have every reason to apprehend an attack from his -whole force very soon. But I shall hold out to the last extremity."</p> - -<p>On the first of March, thirty-two men from Gonzales, forced their way -through the enemy's lines, and entered the fort—increasing the number -to one hundred and eighty-two. Between the twenty-fifth of February and -the fifth of March,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</a></span> the Mexicans were employed in erecting breastworks -around the fort, bombarding the place and battering the walls. On the -second of March, Col. Travis wrote, that more than two hundred shells -had been thrown into the fort without injuring a man.</p> - -<p>In the mean time, the Mexicans continued to receive re-enforcements. -The whole force amounted to about forty-five hundred men. It consisted -of forty companies of Infantry, numbering about seventy men each, -under Generals Sesma and Cos; and fifteen hundred Cavalry, under Gen. -Felisolas; and the whole commanded by Santa Anna in person.</p> - -<p>On the sixth of March, about midnight, a general assault was made upon -the fort by the entire Mexican force. The walls were weak, the balls -from the batteries had passed through them, and, in some places, had -become somewhat dilapidated. The cavalry surrounded the fort, and the -infantry, well supplied with scaling ladders attempted to enter the -fort on all sides at the same time.</p> - -<p>The Texians fought desperately until daylight, when seven only of -the garrison were found alive. We regret to say, that Col. David -Crockett and his companion Mr. Benton, also the gallant Col. Benham -of South-Carolina, were of the number who cried for quarter, but -they were told that there was no mercy for them. They then continued -fighting until the whole were butchered. One woman<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</a></span> (Mrs. Dickinson) -and a wounded negro servant of Col. Travis, were the only persons in -the Alamo whose lives were spared. Col. Bowie was murdered in his bed, -sick and helpless. Gen. Cos, on entering the fort ordered Col. Travis' -servant to point out to him the body of his master; he did so, when -Cos drew his sword and mangled his face and limbs with the malignant -feeling of a savage.</p> - -<p>The bodies of the slain were thrown into a heap in the centre of the -Alamo and burned. On Col. Bowie's body being brought out, Gen. Cos said -that he was too brave a man to be burned like a dog; then added,—never -mind, throw him in. The loss of the Mexicans in storming the place -was estimated at no less than one thousand men killed and mortally -wounded, and as many more disabled—making, with their loss in the -first assault, between two and three thousand killed and wounded. It -is worthy of remark that the flag of Santa Anna's army at Bexar was a -<i>blood red one</i>, in place of the old constitutional tri-colored flag. -Immediately after the capture of the place, Gen. Santa Anna sent Mrs. -Dickinson and Col. Travis' servant to Gen. Houston's camp, accompanied -by a Mexican with a flag, who was bearer of a note from Santa Anna, -offering the Texians peace and a general amnesty, if they would lay -down their arms and submit to his government. Gen. Houston's reply was, -"True sir, you have succeeded in killing some of our brave men, but the -Texians are not yet conquered."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span></p> - -<p>Thus fell the brave defenders of San Antonio. Among the heroes, who -perished in the unequal conflict, were Col. W.B. Travis, Col. Jas. -Bowie and Col. David Crockett, formerly a member of Congress from -the State of Tennessee—every one of whom was himself a host. By a -comparison of dates, it appears that this little garrison of one -hundred and eighty-two men, held out eleven days against the repeated -attacks of an army amounting at last, by constant re-enforcements, to -five thousand men. All that the most determined bravery could achieve, -was accomplished by the besieged. Although worn down by fatigue and -want of sleep, which the continual alarms and discharges of artillery -rendered nearly impossible, while the more numerous besiegers could -relieve each other, the brave band in the fort did not die unavenged. -In the various attacks from first to last, it is probable that they -destroyed of the enemy, eight or ten times their own number. The -history of their achievements and sufferings, in this memorable siege, -may never be known in detail; but enough is revealed to immortalize -the names of these martyrs in the cause of liberty, and to stamp with -eternal infamy and disgrace their remorseless besiegers. Something of -the chivalrous spirit that animated and sustained this truly Spartan -band during this trying occasion, may be seen by the despatch of Col. -Travis, addressed to his fellow citizens and compatriots, during the -siege. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</a></span> says, "I shall defend myself to the last extremity, and -die as becomes a soldier. I never intend to retreat or surrender. -<span class="smcap">Victory or Death.</span>"</p> - -<p>This was the first victory obtained by the Mexicans; and the slaughter -of the whole garrison confirmed, what was before suspected, that the -contest on their part, was to be a war of extermination. No quarter is -to be given, or only granted to be violated. The bloody butcheries of -defenceless prisoners, as might have been expected, had the opposite -effect intended. Instead of striking terror and dismay into the ranks -of the Texians, and palsying their efforts, it only served to arouse -and awaken them into more vigorous action. Every man, capable of -bearing arms, shouldered his rifle, and marched in double quick time -to the theatre of war. The news caused a general excitement throughout -the United States. New-Orleans exhibited all the hurry and bustle of a -camp; and the western and southern riflemen, by hundreds and fifties, -hurried on to the scene of slaughter, to avenge the death of their -murdered countrymen.</p> - -<p>The character of Gen. Cos stands out in bold relief, as the meanest -of the mean. When he and his command were made prisoners of war by -the Texians on this very spot of his present savage triumphs, they -were humanely treated, and suffered to return home on their parole of -honor. This solemn pledge, universally acknowledged and observed by -all civilized nations, and all honorable men, Cos<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</a></span> has seen fit to -disregard. He again appears in arms, and has forfeited his parole of -honor. He now stands before the world, in the character of an outlaw. -But, as if this were not sufficient to brand his name with infamy, -he seemed determined that his actions should be in perfect keeping -with his degraded sense of honor; so as to exhibit to the world, the -humiliating spectacle of a character entirely perfect in treachery -and baseness. Therefore, instead of waging war according to the rules -of civilized nations, he basely murdered the sick in their beds, and -mutilated the bodies of the slain; and instead of decently burying -the dead, he threw their bodies into a heap and burnt them like dogs! -A fit instrument, in the hands of Santa Anna, to teach the people -of Texas, the blessings of Centralism! But it does not require much -forecast to predict, that the Mexicans have kindled a flame at St. -Antonio, that many waters will not be able to quench,—that the day -of severe retribution and bloody vengeance is nigh. And when it shall -have arrived, where will be the voice to plead for such remorseless -murderers as these!</p> - -<p>On the second day of March, the people of Texas, by their delegates, -made a declaration of Independence. It is called, "the unanimous -declaration of Independence, made by the Delegates of the People of -Texas, in General Convention, made at the town of Washington, on the -second day of March, 1836." It is an able state paper, written<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</a></span> with -much spirit and vigor; but, in gracefulness of style and force of -expression, it does not equal its model—the celebrated Declaration -of Independence of the United States, from the polished pen of a -Jefferson. It contains a statement of grievances, which is submitted to -an impartial world, in justification of the hazardous but unavoidable -step, of severing their connection with the Mexican people, and of -assuming an independent attitude among the nations of the earth. As it -is too long to be inserted in this sketch, the following extract, which -of itself contains a sufficient reason for the 'hazardous step' taken, -must suffice.</p> - -<p>"The Mexican government, by its colonization laws, invited and induced -the Anglo-American population of Texas, to colonize the wilderness, -under the pledged faith of a written constitution, that they should -continue to enjoy that constitutional liberty and republican government -to which they had been habituated in the land of their birth, the -United States of America. In this expectation, they have been cruelly -disappointed—as the Mexican nation has acquiesced in the late changes -made in the government by General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna; who, -having overturned the constitution of this country, now offers us the -cruel alternative, either to abandon our own homes, acquired by so -many privations, or submit to the most intolerable of all tyranny, the -combined despotism of the sword and the priesthood."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</a></span></p> - -<p>Of this convention, Richard Ellis was President, and W.S. Kimball, -Secretary. When the news of the fall of San Antonio arrived at the -Convention, a powerful appeal to the people of the United States, was -immediately adopted, and sent to New-Orleans to be published in the -newspapers. A constitution was formed, and the officers of government -appointed as follows:—</p> - -<p style="margin-left:5%;"> -<span class="smcap">David G. Burnet</span>, Pres. of the Republic of Texas.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Lorenzo D. Zavalla</span>, Vice President.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Samuel P. Carson</span>, Secretary of State.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Thomas I. Rush</span>, Secretary of War.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Bailey Hardman</span>, Secretary of the Treasury.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Robert Potter</span>, Secretary of the Navy.<br /> -<span class="smcap">David Thomas</span>, Attorney General.<br /> -<span class="smcap">I.R. Jones</span>, Postmaster General. -</p> - -<p>President Burnet is a native of Newark in New-Jersey, by profession -a lawyer—a gentleman of education, accomplished manners and of the -purest integrity.</p> - -<p>Immediately after the capture of San Antonio, Goliad was besieged by -the enemy under the command of Gen. Urrea. Colonel Fanning, contrary to -his own judgment, but in obedience to positive instructions from Gen. -Houston, blew up the fort and commenced a retreat to the main army. His -force amounted to about three hundred and fifty men, and seven pieces -of artillery. They had pro<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</a></span>ceeded about eight miles to the eastward of -the fort, when they were surrounded in a large prairie, by two thousand -Mexicans, consisting of infantry and cavalry. The advance guard of -twenty-five men under Col. Wharton were, by this movement cut off from -the main force; and believing it to be a mere waste of life to return, -they continued on, and escaped.</p> - -<p>Col. Fanning evacuated the fort on the nineteenth of March; and it was -about four o'clock, in the afternoon of the same day, that the attack -commenced, and lasted until sometime into night. The cavalry made many -charges upon them in rapid succession, but were repulsed with great -slaughter. Col. Fanning continued fighting and retreating, until he -gained a small grove of post-oaks in the midst of the prairie. This -afforded him a sufficient protection from the charges of the cavalry, -and the battle ceased. Col. Fanning's loss was inconsiderable, but one -hundred and ninety of the enemy were ascertained to have been slain, -and as many more wounded.</p> - -<p>This grove was immediately surrounded by the enemy, and a renewal of -the battle was expected in the morning. Col. Fanning, well knowing -escape to be impossible, entrenched himself during the night and was -resolved not to die unavenged. In the morning, however, the enemy -showed a white flag, and Col. Fanning went out to meet the Mexican -General. A capitulation was made with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</a></span> usual forms of honorable -warfare; Col. Fanning was to lay down his arms, and march back to -Goliad, where they were to remain six or eight days as prisoners of -war, to be shipped to New-Orleans from Copano. They surrendered on -these conditions; on the sixth day after their arrival at Goliad, -they were assured that a vessel was ready to receive them at Copano, -to embark for New-Orleans, and Col. Fanning marched out in file, the -Mexicans each side of him. They were marched down about five miles, -when the order was given to fire upon them. At the first fire, nearly -every man fell—a Mr. Haddin of Texas and three others succeeded in -reaching some bushes about one hundred yards distant. They were pursued -by the enemy into the high grass, where they lost sight of them. Haddin -remained in the grass all night; in the morning he succeeded in making -his escape.</p> - -<p>It is difficult to speak of such cowardly and more than savage -massacres, with any tolerable degree of composure. The deeds of Santa -Anna are written in blood, and every triumph but deepens the stain.</p> - -<p>If the first campaign was all victory, the second has hitherto been -all defeat. The affairs of Texas appear to have been badly managed. -San Antonio, being an indefensible position, ought to have been -abandoned at once; but Goliad, the strongest fortress in Texas, ought -to have been maintained to the last. It would have kept the southern -division<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[Pg 371]</a></span> in check, and given time to the Texians to have received -re-enforcements, so that they could have prosecuted the war with vigor -and success.</p> - -<p>Gen. Houston, after the capture of San Antonio, retreated from Gonzales -to the Colorado, and then, to the Brazos river. The southern half of -Texas, being thus left destitute of any armed force, the invading -army had nothing to do but to march forward into the interior, and to -make war upon unarmed citizens and travellers, and defenceless women -and children. The Mexican army proceeded in two divisions of about -two thousand men each; the one, on the line of the sea coast; the -other, about one hundred miles in the interior towards San Felipe; -and troops of horse scoured the country in various directions between -them. A general alarm and dismay seized the inhabitants. On the north -the Indians, incited by Santa Anna, were reported to have embodied in -force, and were proceeding into the country, to plunder and slaughter; -from the south, approached the Mexican army, more savage than the -Indians, waging a war of extermination! Before such merciless foes, -the inhabitants fled, like clouds of dust before the storm. The -peril was so imminent, that they were obliged to abandon all their -possessions and flee for life. Some went to the sea coast and embarked -on board vessels for New-Orleans; others crossed the Sabine river -into Louisiana. The settlements of Texas, to the south of the Brazos, -were entirely broken up, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[Pg 372]</a></span> the whole country became the theatre of -armies, battles, murders and massacres.</p> - -<p>Among the inhuman massacres committed, we shall notice two only. The -first is that of seventy-three emigrants, who left New-Orleans in a -schooner, for Copano. They were landed unarmed at that port, trusting -themselves to the power of the Mexicans; but in less than two hours, -they were all butchered by the soldiers in sight of the vessel! The -schooner escaped to Matagorda. The other case is that of Dr. Harrison, -the son of Gen. Harrison of Ohio. He was travelling with three other -American gentlemen, when they were all taken, their bodies horridly -mutilated, their bowels torn out, and then left in that situation a -prey to the vultures!</p> - -<p>Some small skirmishes took place at sea, in which the Texians were -successful. They captured one schooner loaded with ammunition and -supplies for the Mexican army; and sunk another, after a running fight -with the Invincible. But neither party have much of a naval force.</p> - -<p>At this critical juncture of alarm and distress, Gen. Gaines, the -commander of the United States troops at fort Jessup, marched to the -line of Texas to keep the Indians in check, and to prevent their -joining the Mexican forces; and for the purpose of carrying his plans -into complete effect, he called upon the Governors of the adjacent -States for a number of regiments of mounted men. This was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[Pg 373]</a></span> a wise -and humane movement. The Indians in the upper regions of Texas and -on the frontiers of the United States, are numerous and warlike; and -when engaged in war, they neither respect territorial lines, nor the -rules of civilized nations. They inhabit the country from latitude -thirty-four degrees north on Red River, to the Rio del Norte, extending -to the road that leads from St. Louis (Mo.) to Santa Fe; south to the -head waters of Trinity, Guadaloupe, Brazos and Colorado rivers of -Texas—a country in length six hundred miles, and breadth from two -hundred and fifty to four hundred miles, mostly prairie. The different -tribes are Camanches, Kyawas, Towash or Southern Pawnees, Caddoes, -Wacoes and Skiddies. They number about thirty-five thousand in all, and -can muster from seven to eight thousand restless warriors in this great -Western Prairie.</p> - -<p>The reported movements of the Indians, however, proved to be greatly -exaggerated. Some small parties started for the theatre of the war, -but were induced by the prompt action and warning of Gen. Gaines, to -return home and be quiet. Being assured that the Indians would remain -peaceable, Gen. Gaines countermanded his call upon the States for -mounted volunteers, and marched his forces back to fort Jessup and -Nachitoches.</p> - -<p>The affairs of Texas, at this time wore a gloomy aspect. All the -expeditions into Mexico, beyond the limits of Texas, proved disastrous -and unsuc<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[Pg 374]</a></span>cessful. The people of the Mexican States proved to be -more united in Centralism than was expected. The aid, which many so -sanguinely anticipated from that quarter, proved a mere illusion. It -now became manifest, that the Texians, with such aid as they could -obtain from the United States, must fight her own battles single -handed, against the combined forces of all the Mexican provinces.</p> - -<p>Gen. Houston, after remaining sometime at his encampment on the -Brazos river, retreated about thirty miles further, and crossed the -San Jacinta. Santa Anna, with one division of his army, crossed the -Brazos fifteen miles below San Felipe, and took the road to Harrisburg. -The object of Gen. Houston seems to have been, to retire before the -invading army, until it arrived into the centre of the country, and -then, give them battle. Although by this course, he left half of the -State to the ravages of the enemy, yet he deemed this step unavoidable. -His force was too small to hazard <i>all</i>, upon the issue of a battle, -far away from reinforcements and supplies.</p> - -<p>On the nineteenth of April, General Houston's scouts took a courier, -who gave information that the Mexican Army were near at hand, on the -west side of the San Jacinta river. Immediately, General Houston, -at the head of about seven hundred effective men, took up the line -of march and arrived in sight of the enemy on the morning of the -twentieth. The day was spent in reconnoitering<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[Pg 375]</a></span> the enemy, and -exchanging a few shots between the artillery without much effect on -either side. But the particulars of this battle and glorious victory, -which resulted in the</p> - -<p class="center"><b>Capture of Santa Anna,</b></p> - -<p>and the entire division under his command, we shall give in the words -of a number of individuals who were in the contest.</p> - -<p>"On the morning of the twenty-first, the enemy commenced -manœuvering, and we expected to be attacked in our camp, as they -had received a reinforcement of five hundred men, which made them -twelve hundred strong; but they settled down and continued throwing -up a breast work, which they had commenced at the first news of our -approach. We commenced the attack upon them at half past four o'clock, -P.M. by a hot fire from our artillery, consisting of two ordinary four -pounders. The enemy returned our fire with a long brass nine pounder. -The contest was a regular battle. The Texians, notwithstanding the -great disparity of force, positively demanded of Gen. Houston to fight. -Consequently, he ordered an advanced guard against the Mexican; yet -enjoined them not to attack, but retreat, to bring the enemy into -a defile. This being accomplished, Houston immediately flanked and -attacked him in front and on both sides—opening first with artillery, -which, on the second fire, dispersed to atoms the powder boxes of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[Pg 376]</a></span> -the Mexicans; and then with rifles. The Texians then rushed in from -their ambuscade, with pistols, knives and hatchets, and completed the -work of destruction. The fight lasted about fifteen minutes, when -Santa Anna ordered a retreat. The Mexican soldiers then threw down -their arms, most of them without firing! and begged for quarters. -The officers broke and endeavored to escape. The mounted riflemen, -however, soon overtook all but one, who distanced the rest; him they -ran fifteen miles, when his horse bogged down in the prairie near the -Brazos timber; he then made for the timber on foot. His pursuers in the -eagerness of the chase, dashed into the same bog, and continued the -pursuit on foot, following the trail of the fugitive, which was very -plain, owing to the recent rains, until they reached the timber, where -it was lost. The pursuers then spread themselves and searched the woods -for a long time in vain, when it occurred to an <i>old Hunter</i> that the -chase might, like a hard pressed bear, have taken a tree. The tree tops -were then examined, when lo, the game was discovered snugly ensconced -in the forks of a large live oak. The captors did not know who the -prisoner was, until they reached the camp, when the Mexican soldiers -exclaimed, "El General, El General Santa Anna!""</p> - -<p>Never was a victory more decisive and complete. Six hundred of the -enemy were left dead upon the field, and as many more taken prisoners. -Among<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[Pg 377]</a></span> the killed were, Gen. Cos, who was recognized by a soldier after -the battle, and immediately shot; Gen. Castrillion, Col. Batnes, Col. -Trivino, Col. Don Jose Maria Remero, Lieut. Col. Castillo.</p> - -<p>Among the prisoners were Gen. <span class="smcap">Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna</span>, his -five aids, six Colonels, five Captains, and twelve Lieutenants.</p> - -<p>Houston was wounded in the ancle by a musket ball in the early part of -the engagement; but remained on his horse until it terminated.</p> - -<p>On the part of the Texians, only six men were killed and twenty -wounded! The history of war does not furnish a parallel to this -splendid victory; but Gen. Houston did not tarnish the laurels so -gallantly won, by following the example of the Mexicans, in shooting -his prisoners of war. They were removed to Galveston Island; and Gen. -Santa Anna and his officers were put on board of an armed schooner, -and anchored off the shore. Gen. Santa Anna made a proposition that -all his army in Texas should lay down their arms—the Independence of -Texas acknowledged—the expense of the war to be paid by Mexico, and -himself to remain as a hostage. These were to be the terms of peace; -but, unfortunately, he does not possess the power to fulfil them. -Mexico will not probably, either agree to pay the expense of the war, -or to acknowledge the Independence of Texas. The Texian war is national -in Mexico; and Santa Anna continued his power solely by directing the -popular fu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[Pg 378]</a></span>ry against Texas. His death would give general satisfaction -through the Mexican republic; and the Texian war will enable some other -brave to rise into power in Mexico.</p> - -<p>Although this signal victory may not terminate the war in Texas, as -there are still nearly three thousand Mexicans there, under Generals -Ardrade, Urrea and Sesma; and about five thousand more at Saltillo, -ready to enter; yet we believe, it fully settles the question of Texian -Independence. The capture of Santa Anna will cause a new revolution in -Mexico, and a new organization of government. The Texians will gain -time to prepare for the contest. Aid, effective and sufficient, will be -received from the United States; and it is not probable that another -general will be found, to prosecute the war with the experience and -vigor of Santa Anna.</p> - -<p>The question respecting the acknowledgement of the independence of -Texas by the United States, has been moved and discussed in Congress. -There seems to be a diversity of opinion among our citizens, whether -it would be preferable to acknowledge its independence, or to have it -annexed to the United States. Our opinion is, that for all the useful -purposes of a good government, the territorial limits of the United -States are already sufficiently extensive. If more territory were -added, the nation would become too unwieldly to be well managed, and in -time would fall to pieces. Texas, of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[Pg 379]</a></span> itself, has larger territorial -limits than many of the nations of Europe; and when it shall have -gained its independence, if wise heads and pure hearts take the lead in -its government, it will soon be settled and become a powerful nation.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[Pg 380]</a></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>San Felipe is the head quarters of Austin's Colony. It is situated -on the south bank of the Brazos river, a hundred miles from the -sea. It is three hundred miles southwest from Natchitoches, and -five hundred miles west of New-Orleans. The following table shows -the distance and bearing of the principal towns in Texas from -San Felipe, the names of the rivers and bays upon which they are -situated, and their distance from the sea coast. Those accessable -to sea vessels, have a star prefixed.</p></blockquote> - - -<table summary="towns" width="80%"> -<tr> -<th>Towns. -</th> -<th>Distance from<br /> San Felipe. -</th> -<th>Direction. -</th> -<th>River or Bay on<br /> which it is situated. -</th> -<th>Distance from<br /> the sea. -</th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>San Antonio, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">170</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">San Antonio,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">200</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>St. Augustine, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">250</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">N.E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Ayish Bayou,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">150</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Anahuac, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">120</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Galveston Bay,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 50</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Brazoria, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 75</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Brazos,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 30</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Bolivar, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 50</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Brazos,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 55</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Bastrap, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">100</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">N.W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Colorado,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">180</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Columbia, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 65</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.E.</span> -</td> -<td> <span style="margin-left:15%">Brazos,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 40</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cole's Settlement, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 40</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">N.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Prairie,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">140</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Copano, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">150</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Aransaso Bay,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 25</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Electra, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 45</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">N.W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Colorado,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">150</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Goliad, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">125</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">San Antonio,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 75</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Gonzales, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">125</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Guadalupe,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">180</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Harrisburg, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 65</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Galveston Bay,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 75</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Liberty, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">125</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">N.E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Trinity,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 55</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Linchburg, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 75</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">N.E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Galveston Bay,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 75</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Matagorda, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">100</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Colorado,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 20</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Montezuma, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 35</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Colorado,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">130</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Matamoras, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">280</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Rio del Norte,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 45</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Monclova, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">390</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">On Prairie,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">280</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Nacogdoches, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">245</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">N.E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">On Prairie,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">150</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Orazimba, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 55</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Brazos,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 50</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Refugio, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">290</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Rio del Norte,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 1</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>San Patrick, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">180</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Neuces,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 50</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Tinoxtitlan, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">100</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">N.W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Brazos,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">200</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>*Velasco, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">100</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Brazos,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 0</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Victoria, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">100</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">S.W.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Guadalupe,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 75</span> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Zavallas, -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">200</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%">N.E.</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:15%">Neches,</span> -</td> -<td><span style="margin-left:25%"> 80</span> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<div class="transnote" style="margin-top:5em;"> -<p >Transcribers note:</p> -<p>Apart from a few obvious printers errors original spelling has been retained.</p> -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Trip to the West and Texas, by A. A. Parker - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRIP TO THE WEST AND TEXAS *** - -***** This file should be named 53648-h.htm or 53648-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/6/4/53648/ - -Produced by Graeme Mackreth and The Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - - -</pre> - -</body> -</html> diff --git a/old/53648-h/images/cover.jpg b/old/53648-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3d17a7c..0000000 --- a/old/53648-h/images/cover.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/53648-h/images/illus01.jpg b/old/53648-h/images/illus01.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a2f4500..0000000 --- a/old/53648-h/images/illus01.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/53648-h/images/illus02.jpg b/old/53648-h/images/illus02.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a5dea71..0000000 --- a/old/53648-h/images/illus02.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/53648.txt b/old/53648.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 6a8c1e6..0000000 --- a/old/53648.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9616 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Trip to the West and Texas, by A. A. Parker - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Trip to the West and Texas - comprising a journey of eight thousand miles, through - New-York, Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, Louisiana and - Texas, in the autumn and winter of 1834-5. - -Author: A. A. Parker - -Release Date: December 2, 2016 [EBook #53648] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRIP TO THE WEST AND TEXAS *** - - - - -Produced by Graeme Mackreth and The Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - - TRIP - - TO THE - - WEST AND TEXAS. - - COMPRISING - - A JOURNEY OF EIGHT THOUSAND MILES, - - THROUGH - - NEW-YORK, MICHIGAN, ILLINOIS, MISSOURI, LOUISIANA AND - TEXAS, IN THE AUTUMN AND WINTER OF - 1834-5. - - INTERSPERSED WITH ANECDOTES, INCIDENTS - AND OBSERVATIONS. - - WITH A BRIEF SKETCH - - OF THE - - TEXIAN WAR. - - BY A.A. PARKER, ESQ. - - Second Edition. - - CONCORD, N.H.: - PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM WHITE. - BOSTON: - BENJAMIN B. MUSSEY. - 1836. - - - - - Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1835, - BY WHITE & FISHER, - In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of New-Hampshire. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The author of this work, unknown to fame, and unacquainted with the art -of book-making, has endeavored, in the following pages, to give some -account of the great WESTERN AND SOUTHERN COUNTRY. In performing this -task, he has not attempted the regions of fancy and fiction; but has -told his own story--"a plain unvarnished tale," in his own way. And -although it may not indicate much depth of research, or possess all the -graces of polished diction and charms of novelty, yet he hopes it may -be found to contain information sufficient to repay a perusal. - -He spent five months on his journey, and examined the country through -which he passed, as much as time would permit:--Its soil, climate and -productions--the manners, customs and health of the inhabitants--the -animals, reptiles and insects--in short, all things favorable and -unfavorable in the NEW WORLD. He has freely spoken of the country -just as it appeared to him; and he believes the information this work -purports to give, may be safely relied upon. But if it should be found -to contain errors of fact, or of opinion, he is confident they will be -deemed unintentional. - -It would have been quite easy to make a much larger book of the -author's travels; and had he followed the example set him by some of -the journalists of the day, he should have done so. But his object was -not to make a large and expensive volume. He has given in a concise -form, such descriptions, incidents and anecdotes only, as he believes -may instruct and amuse, and enable the public to form a correct opinion -of the country. How he has succeeded in his undertaking, others, of -course, will judge for themselves; he hopes this little work may be -found not entirely destitute of useful and entertaining matter, and -prove an acceptable offering to his friends and fellow-citizens. - -In the appendix, will be found a particular description of MICHIGAN, -and a BRIEF SKETCH of the TEXIAN REVOLUTIONARY WAR. - -In this sketch, the author has consulted all the accounts given of this -sanguinary war, and he believes it will be found correct in all its -essential particulars: but he does not wish to conceal the fact, that -amidst the hurry and bustle of a Revolution perfect accuracy is hardly -attainable. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - Objects of the Trip--Albany, situation and appearance--Erie canal - basin--western travellers--rail road--canal boats, packets, line - boats and scows--accommodations--number of boats--mode of passing - each other--tow-pathbridges--accident in crossing--Erie - canal--Villages and grog-shops--Trenton falls--Ithaca falls--Taghcanic - falls--Rochester--canal aqueduct--Genesee falls--Sam Patch's last - leap--flouring mills--Lockport--double canal locks--deep cut--arrival - at Buffalo. Page, 13 - - - CHAPTER II. - - The city of Buffalo--steamboat on the Niagara river--Fort - Erie--Black Rock--visit to Niagara falls--Canada - shore--Manchester--State of New-York--emigration--return to - Buffalo--different routes to the West--passage in - steamboat--Cleaveland--Maumee--Monroe--number of emigrants--vessels - on the lake--Detroit--the Canada shore--ferry boats. 25 - - - CHAPTER III. - - Travelling by stage to the mouth of St. Joseph river--miry - roads--Ann Arbor--Upsilanti--oak openings--prairies and - woodland--Michigan, level, clear water, but not - pure---Jackson--Marshall--Gull lake and prairie--Kalamazoo - river--Bronson--Pawpaw river--St. Joseph village--lake - Michigan--misfortune of an emigrant--crossing the lake--Michigan - city--stage road on the beach. 35 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - Chicago, a general description thereof--Pottawattomie tribe - of Indians, their appearance and actions--the land back of - Chicago--the lakes and their original outlet through the - Illinois river--character of the inhabitants of Chicago--house - rent and provisions. 43 - - - CHAPTER V. - - Trip to Fox river--fellow travellers--river Oplane--Du Page river - and Naper's settlement--big and little woods--pleasant settlement - of emigrants--Fox river--upper house--lost in a prairie at night--log - house--travelling towards Rock river--gravel hills--Walker's - grove. 51 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - General description of the north part of Illinois--various kinds - of trees--prairies--excellent coal--government grant of - land--unsurveyed land settled upon--pre-emption right--not subject - to fever and ague--wild game--prairie wolves and mode of killing - them--prairie rattle snakes, blackbirds and squirrels--manner of - judging of a new country--anecdote of a Vermont emigrant--New-Hampshire - emigrant--statements of settlers and landholders not always to be - credited. 57 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Holderman's Grove--Ottawa--junction of Fox and Illinois - rivers--Hennipen--Princeton--present and past situation of an - emigrant--massacre of Elijah Philips by the Indians, and the - fortunate escape of his companions. 66 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - Peoria--beauty of the surrounding country--fever and ague--scholars - studying aloud in school--stages from Peoria--anecdote of a tavern - keeper--Illinois river--passage down it in a steamboat--narrow - lakes--high bluffs--Pekin--Beardstown--Naples--arrival at upper - Alton. 74 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - General description of the state of Illinois--streams skirted - with timber--more than half prairie--a level State--generally - rich soil--American bottom--military bounty lands--beautiful - region of Sangamon river--the best tracts of land in the - State--more good land than any other State--cause of the existence - of prairies--country once inhabited by a civilized race anterior - to the Indians--its rivers, Kankakee, Oplane, Du Page, Fox, - Illinois, Rock, Spoon, Kaskaskia, Wabash, &c.--lead - mines--productions--milk-sickness--chief towns--schools, &c. 79 - - - CHAPTER X. - - Burning of the prairies--backwoodsmen--society--meeting-houses - and school-houses--what kind of goods an emigrant ought to take - with him--cheapness of provisions--manner of commencing a - settlement--ploughing the prairies--guarding the improvements - against the prairie fires--junction of the Missouri with the - Mississippi--arrival at St. Louis--a description of the - town--steam ferry boat. 92 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - General description of the state of Missouri--south part - generally barren, or wet and unhealthy--soil not muddy--prairie - on the Mississippi--banks of the Missouri--large prairies - destitute of wood and water--productions--prairie blossoms--wild - animals, snakes, &c.--dryness and purity of the - atmosphere--diseases--mildness of the winter--lead mines and - minerals--chief towns. 99 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - Voyage down the Mississippi in a steamboat--high bluffs--screw - auger grist mills--shot towers--curiosities--dangers of the - Mississippi navigation--narrow escape--run aground on a sand - bar--mouth of the Ohio--cargo of the boat--amusements on - board--history of one of the ladies--"Queen of the Nile"--description - of the steamboat--price of passage--wooding the boat--ludicrous - fracas on board--noise of the boats, &c.--peculiarities of expression - of the western people--names of money. 107 - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Independent frankness of the western people--eastern people--towns - on the river--great earthquake at New Madrid--bluffs on the - river--woodcutters--serpentine course of the Mississippi--negro - slaves on board--one died of the cholera--benefit of steamboat - navigation--flat boats still in use. 119 - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Arrival at Natchez--description of the city--starts for Texas - with another traveller--cotton plantations--description of the - cotton plant--passage through the great Mississippi swamp--cypress - knees, water and mud--Tensaw river--overtaken by night in the - swamp--gloomy situation--lake Lovelace--planter's house on Indian - mound--mildness of the weather--good accommodations--travelling - in a right spirit--anecdote of a testy traveller. 125 - - - CHAPTER XV. - - Outlet of the lake--Washita river--Harrisonburg--pine - woods--description of a planter--Red River rightly named--changes - at its mouth--arrival at Alexandria and description of the - place--race-course and horses--death of a gambler--fruit trees and - vegetables--moschetoes. 134 - - - CHAPTER XVI. - - Bayou Rapide--fine cotton plantations--stream running in opposite - directions--accompanied by another traveller--pine woods--planter's - house--price of meals, &c.--Spanish moss--bottom land covered - with dense forest--pine woods--the widow's house--manner - of lodging travellers--inquisitiveness of the people--emigrants to - Texas--Sabine river. 139 - - - CHAPTER XVII. - - Arrival in Texas--oak openings and prairies--plantations of corn - and cotton--St. Augustine--arrival at Nacogdoches--its grotesque - appearance--Indian trade in deer pelts--Galveston bay and Texas - land company--four leagues of land for a dog--pine woods--Indian - mounds--mounds in Ohio, Missouri and Illinois--Monastery near - a mound--their origin and use--Neches river--new made bridge. 149 - - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - Leave the pine woods--wet prairie--Trinity river--planter's - house--death of an emigrant's wife--perplexities of - emigration--an emigrant lost his money--breach of trust in - a hired man--beautiful prairies--muddy streams--red cedar--petrified - wood--mode of grinding corn--living from hand to mouth--beautiful - prospect--Indians on horseback--massacre of twenty Polanders--muddy - swamp--Brazos river--Spanish trader--Indians more friendly to Americans - than Spaniards--prairie country--Cole's settlement--live oak--Colorado - river. 160 - - - CHAPTER XIX. - - GENERAL VIEW OF TEXAS--herds of buffalo and wild - horses--mustangs, manner of catching--seacoast flat--Galveston - bay and Texas land company--burning of the prairies--fine - grazing country--wildgame--deer-hunting--shooting deer in the - night--productions of the soil--list of forest trees--Spanish - moss--health of the country and climate. 169 - - - CHAPTER XX. - - Rivers of Texas--seacoast--mill-seats--land grants--number of - inhabitants--exports--inhabitants indolent--cheapness of - land and manner of obtaining it--reptiles and - animals--panther--flies--moschetoes--Indian tribes--water - too warm. 182 - - - CHAPTER XXI. - - Towns in Texas--Spanish villages--Mexican - garrisons--Texas--mechanics--Texas and Cohahuila united--courts - of law--professional men--unlawful punishments--salt lake--negroes - indented--boundaries of Texas--general appearance of the - country--rainy season--roads and carriages--emigration. 196 - - - CHAPTER XXII. - - Emigrants unhappy--Mexican republic unsettled--Col. - Austin--imprisonment--Texians slandered--healthy portions - of the country--what an emigrant ought to take with him--price - of stock--mail routes--currency--best spot in Texas--emigrant - puzzled--how property may be acquired. 204 - - - CHAPTER XXIII. - - Arrival at San Felipe--billiard room--gambler shot--bloody affray - about a lady--ten men to one woman in the country--arrival at Columbia - and Bell's landing--started down river in a canoe--Brazoria--went - on board a vessel--hunting excursion of the mate--Brazos - river--Velasco--sandy beach. 213 - - - CHAPTER XXIV. - - Passed over the bar and left Texas--reasons for emigrating - in the fall--means for going to Texas--speculation--passengers - on board--sea sickness--vessel run aground--Mississippi steam - tow-boats--sugar plantations and negroes--making sugar. 222 - - - CHAPTER XXV. - - City of New-Orleans--vessels in port--muddy streets and filthy - gutters--houses of dissipation--character of the inhabitants--resort - of knaves and vagabonds--ship yards--canal and railroad--no wharves. 228 - - - CHAPTER XXVI. - - Start down the river--nunnery--battle-ground--negro slavery--the - situation of the negroes--general views on the subject. 235 - - - CHAPTER XXVII. - - GENERAL DESCRIPTION of the MISSISSIPPI RIVER--its - source--its tributaries--Wisconsin and Illinois--Missouri, its - source and tributaries--gates of the Rocky mountains--Ohio - river, its general character and appearance--White, Arkansas - and Red rivers--outlets of the Mississippi--falls of St. Anthony--Dacota - Indian woman--river banks--width of the stream and depth of - water--Mississippi swamp--serpentine course--color of the waters--the - most interesting river in the world. 246 - - - CHAPTER XXVIII. - - Sail for Boston--sea voyage disagreeable to a landsman--change of - scenery--Chatham, Boston--arrival at home. 262 - - - CHAPTER XXIX. - - RETROSPECTIVE GLANCE at the GREAT MISSISSIPPI - VALLEY--character, appearance and natural - productions--conclusion. 266 - - - APPENDIX. - - MICHIGAN, 285--population, 285--face of the country, - 286--Wayne county, 292--Monroe county, 294--Washtenaw county, - 295--Macomb county, 297--Oakland county, 299--St. Clair - county, 301--St. Joseph county, 302--Cass county, 304--Berrien - county, 306--Lapeer and Saginaw counties, 308--Shiawassee - county, 309--Calhoun county, 309--Kalamazoo county, 310--Branch - and Hillsdale counties, 311--Lenawee county, 312--Barry, Eaton - and Ingham counties on grand river, 312. - - - TEXIAN REVOLUTION. - - - FIRST CAMPAIGN. - - Introductory remarks, 323--causes of the war, 324--parallel - case, 326--Col. Austin released and sent to Texas, 329--capture - of the armed schooner Correo, 330--first battle on land at - Gonzales, 331--capture of Goliad, 333--Col. Milam, 335--army - marched towards San Antonio, 339--San Antonio besieged, - 340--Commissioners to the United States appointed, 340--San - Antonio stormed and taken, 341--the brave Col. Milam killed, - and sketch of his life, 342. - - Gen. Mexia's expedition, 345--28 men shot at Tampico, - 347--volunteers from the United States--Col. Stanley's regiment, - 348--General Council convened, and citizens of Goliad make a - declaration of independence, 349--state of affairs in Mexico, - decree of Santa Anna, 351--embargo laid, 352--Indians called to - aid Santa Anna, 353--flag of Texas, 354--post-offices and mail - routes, 354--Mexicans preparing for another campaign, 355--situation - of Texas, 356. - - - SECOND CAMPAIGN. - - The Mexican army arrive in Texas, commanded by Santa Anna - in person, 358--Situation of San Antonio, 359--capture and - massacre of Col. Johnson's party, 360--second attack upon - the fort, 361--the fort attacked at midnight, taken and the - garrison all slain, 362--Gen. Cos, 365--Declaration of - Independence, 366--officers of the government, 368--Goliad - abandoned, and Col. Fanning party attacked in the prairie, - 369--Col. Fanning surrenders, and his party massacred, 370. - - Gen. Houston retreats to the Brazos, 371--the inhabitants become - alarmed and flee, 371--massacre at Copano, 372--skirmish at sea, - 372--Gen. Gaines marches to the frontier of Texas, 372--Indians on - the western prairies, 373--CAPTURE OF SANTA ANNA, 375--the - Independence of Texas certain, 378--Texian Independence agitated - in U.S. Congress, 378--Table of the Chief Towns in Texas and - distances from San Felipe, 380. - - - - -ADVERTISEMENT. - - -The public approbation of this work, so fully manifested by a rapid -and entire sale of the first edition, has induced the publishers to -issue another, much enlarged and improved edition. The broad expanse -of country, stretching from the Alleghany mountains to the Pacific -ocean, much of which is unsurveyed, unsettled and unexplored, is -an interesting portion of the United States. It is believed, there -are two hundred million acres of public lands yet unsurveyed in -Wisconsin Territory--fifty millions in Michigan--and 800 millions in -Missouri, Mississippi, and Arkansas. To all these, are to be added -the illimitable tracts, hardly yet trodden by the foot of civilized -man, which lie in the unpeopled immensity, on both sides of the rocky -mountains. The value of this vast domain, at the minimum government -price, defies all calculation. What a source of revenue for the present -and the future! - -But when the boundless resources that now lie hidden in its hills and -mountains shall have become developed--when the vast plains shall have -been settled--and towns, villages and farm houses arise in the lonely -wilderness, and the teeming soil be cultivated--who then will be able -to estimate the value of this great territory of the West? In ten -years, the West will have a majority in the United States Congress; in -a century, a large portion of it will contain a population as dense, -perhaps, as that of the Atlantic States. Public attention, within a few -years, has been directed to this section of our country--emigration has -received a new impulse--government lands are sought for with avidity, -and the whole country is rapidly settling. To the emigrant, speculator, -and indeed, the whole people of the United States as joint owners of -the public domain, any book giving information upon this subject, must -be acceptable and of real value. The publishers, therefore, anticipate -a rapid sale of the present edition. - - - - - TRIP - TO THE - WEST AND TEXAS. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - -In September, 1834, I left Exeter, New-Hampshire, for the purpose of -visiting the Western States and Texas. Although public attention had -been for some time directed thither, by various published sketches and -frequent emigration, yet so little was definitely known, that I was -induced to travel through these sections of the country to learn their -actual situation and condition. My object was not to visit the settled -regions of the country, a full knowledge of which may be obtained from -books, but to see some portion of the unknown and unsettled regions -of the West and the South. My particular attention was, therefore, -directed to Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, Louisiana and Texas. - -But so rapidly are some portions of this new country settling; so -constantly are new villages springing up in the wilderness; and so -continually are improvements making, that history must continue to -lag behind the reality. To keep any thing like an even pace with -population, and the public constantly informed of the actual condition -of the country, would require, like an almanac, an annual revision and -publication of its history. - -I took passage on board the stage, through Brattleborough and -Bennington, to Albany. About twelve years ago, I travelled over this -route, and was gratified to find so many improvements in the villages, -farms, and especially in the stage road, since I had travelled it -before. In passing through Vermont, I found a new road had been made -to avoid the high hills over which it formerly passed, so that now, I -believe this is the easiest and safest route across the Green Mountains. - -Two opposition turnpikes were almost completed from Bennington to -Troy--one entering at the upper, the other at the lower part of the -city. The public have been badly accommodated in this quarter. The -old road is rough, hilly and circuitous. One of the turnpikes would -have been abundantly sufficient; but if Troy chooses to make two, the -travelling public will not probably object. Opposition seems to be -the order of the day; and although it has caused much improvement in -the ease and facility of travelling, yet it is often troublesome and -annoying. As we drove up to the door of the stage house in Albany, -an agent of one of the steamboats, thrust in his head and gave us -a handbill of a boat--enquired if we were going down the river, and -without waiting for an answer, said it was a good boat, swift, low -pressure engine, start at nine in the morning, fare to New-York city -only _fifty cents_. In the bar-room, we had to pass through the same -ceremony with the agent of another boat; and I had to take a third -edition in the street next morning. - -The Erie canal terminates in a large basin, immediately on the banks -of the Hudson river, so that the freight of the canal boats can be -conveniently transferred to the river boats. Western travellers can -here take passage on board the canal boat, or go on the railroad to -Schenectady and take a boat there. But as the canal is twice the -distance of the railroad, travellers generally choose the latter. -Travellers from the North, when accompanied by their families and -baggage, usually stop at Troy, and take a canal boat there, for the -West. - -The ancient city of Albany has the appearance of much business and -wealth; and some portions of it are pleasant, especially in the region -of the State House and other public buildings. From the river, the -ground rapidly rises, so that the city stands upon the side of a hill, -and makes a fine appearance, when viewed from the opposite shore. - -The railroad commences in State street, a short distance below the -State House yard; and so steep is the ascent, that the cars are drawn -for a mile by horses. Here a steam engine was hitched on, and we -started off at a rapid rate. The distance from Albany to Schenectady -is sixteen miles, and we travelled it over in less than an hour. Here -we were assailed by the agents and captains of the canal boats, and -those who could make the most noise and bustle, and obtain the most -passengers, were the best fellows. - -There are three kinds of boats in general use on the canal. The Packet -boats, drawn by three horses, and go at the rate of about five miles -an hour. They are fitted up in good style, intended exclusively for -passengers and their baggage--having elegant cabins, drawing-rooms, -berths, &c. Fare, five cents a mile and found. - -The Line boats--designed for freight and passengers also. These are -drawn by two horses, and travel at the rate of two and a half or three -miles an hour. The fare is one cent a mile for passage only; and one -and a half cents addition per mile, for board. Families travelling to -the West, generally take the Line boats. They can travel much cheaper -than in any other mode. They furnish their own provisions, and have -the privilege of cooking on board the boat. Provisions are plenty and -cheap, and can be bought at almost every stopping place, along the -whole line of the canal. - -And the Scows, used exclusively for grain, flour, lumber, &c., which -are employed by the farmers to carry their own produce to market. These -are drawn by two horses; and many of them have two sets of horses, and -stalls made on board to keep one set, while the other draws the boat; -and at regular intervals, relieve each other. By this means, they keep -the boat continually going, night and day. - -The Packet boats ply between the large towns on the canal, from -Schenectady to Utica; from Utica to Rochester, &c., so that a -traveller, in going through the whole route, must shift his baggage -and himself from one boat to another, three or four times. But the -Line boats run the whole length of the canal, from Albany or Troy to -Buffalo.--These boats are furnished with horses by a company, who have -them stationed at regular intervals of about twelve miles the whole -distance. - -All the boats, at night, carry two brilliant lights in the bow, so -as to enable the helmsman to steer, and avoid other boats when they -meet. I took passage on board one of the Troy and Erie line. I found -good accommodations, and good company. In the forward part of the -boat, were the gentlemen's and ladies' cabins; in the stern, the -dining and cook rooms; and in the centre the place for freight. It was -about seventy feet long, and twelve or fourteen feet in width. Three -other passengers, besides myself, went the whole route; a lady and -her daughter from Pennsylvania, and a Dr. Warren of Rhode Island; and -way-passengers were continually coming aboard, and leaving the boat, at -our several stopping places. I found travelling on the canal pleasant, -and in fine weather, delightful. We were continually passing villages, -farms, locks, viaducts, or boats; and these, with the company aboard, -afforded an agreeable variety. When I wished for exercise, I would jump -ashore, and take a walk along the hard trod tow-path. - -I was really surprised to find so many boats on the canal. We met them -almost every mile, and sometimes, three or four together. The Line -boats are owned by companies; and the captain told me that forty-five -boats belonged to his line. When one happens to run aground, which -is sometimes the case, when deeply laden and the water low, it is of -course, in the centre of the canal; so that boats cannot pass on either -side; in such an event, twenty or thirty boats will be congregated in a -few hours. - -The boats pass each other on the left hand side, and without trouble -or delay. The whole process of passing belongs to the outside boat; or -the one the farthest from the tow-path. All the inside boat has to do, -is to steer near the tow-path, and keep on as usual. The outside boat -hauls one way, and their horses the other, and lets the tow-rope slack, -so that the inside horses and boat can pass over it, between them. The -tow-path sometimes changes from one side to the other of the canal; and -the horses are transferred by means of a bridge. They pass underneath -the bridge, and turn up on to it the further side; so as to keep the -tow-rope clear of it. The riders display their horsemanship by whipping -over these bridges at full speed. Accidents, however, sometimes occur. -One day, the Packet boat passed us, a short distance from a tow-path -bridge; and as the horses were going at full speed across it, the -forward one slipped, fell over the railing, and drew the others after -him. The rider saved himself by leaping from the horse to the bridge. -The two forward horses fell into the water, and came out uninjured; but -the rear one fell across the edge of the tow-path and was killed on the -spot. - -The Erie canal is a great and noble work; and has gained a niche in -the temple of fame, for its great founder. It has been of incalculable -benefit to New-York, and the rising States in the West; and must -continue to be, in all time to come. Now it is completed, and in -successful operation, men may cease to wonder; but so improbable was it -generally thought to be, to make such a long line of canal, on a route -so difficult and expensive, that an intelligent gentleman informed me, -when he was asked by one of the surveyors, if he should not admire -to see boats passing before his door; emphatically replied, if life -were guaranteed till that event, he would then willingly resign it. A -few years only passed, before the event did happen, but he is not yet -_quite_ willing to die. - -It was indeed a great undertaking. None but a man of a gigantic mind, -of steady purpose and firm resolution, could have conceived, planned -and executed it. It all along bears the marks of so much labor and -expense, that a common mind would have been deterred from making the -attempt. The canal passes over an extent of country much more rough, -broken and hilly than I had supposed. Long levels of canal are found -to be sure; but they are made at great expense, by filling up deep -gullies, winding round the side of hills, or deep cuts through them; -and by walling up the side of streams, or aqueducts over them. - -Every few miles, the canal passes through a village. Many of these -have sprung into existence, since the completion of the canal; and -others have much increased in size, wealth and beauty. They are all -_ornamented_ with grog-shops, containing, among other miscellaneous -matter, an abundant supply of "boat-stores." - -New-York has a great variety of romantic scenery. It has more beautiful -and stupendous water-falls than any other State in the Union; and the -lover of nature's choicest works might very pleasantly spend months in -viewing them. Trenton Falls, on the West Canada Creek, a large stream -that empties into the Mohawk, are situated about twenty-four miles -above its mouth. They consist of several _chutes_ for the distance -of two miles, commencing near Black river road, and terminating at -Conrad's mills. The upper fall is about twenty feet; and the descent -above, for two miles, is not less than sixty feet. The water, here -compressed into a narrow space, is received into a large basin, rolls -down a precipitous ravine a hundred feet in depth, and presents to -the eye the most romantic peculiarities.--Some of the topmost crags -overhanging the stream; and here and there, a hardy tree, having gained -a foot-hold in the crevices of the rock, throws its branches athwart -the abyss. There are six distinct falls. The next below, are two -pitches, called the Cascades; where the water falls eighteen feet--the -Mill Dam Fall, of thirteen feet. - -The High Falls, consisting of three pitches--one of forty-eight, the -second of eleven, and the third, of thirty-seven feet--Sherman's Falls, -of thirty-five feet. The last fall is at Conrad's mills, and is only -six feet; but the descent of water, from the top of the upper fall -to the lower one, is three hundred and eighty-seven feet--and the -whole forms as wild and romantic a scene as the enthusiastic lover of -nature's most eccentric works could desire. Organic remains have been -found in the ravine in abundance, and Mr. Sherman has a cabinet of -them, which are exhibited to the curious. - -Ithaca Falls are situated at the head of Cayuga Lake. The high fall -of Fall river is the first that strikes the eye, in going from the -steamboat landing to the village, and is one hundred and sixteen feet -in height. Two immense piles of rocks enclose the stream. On the right -hand high up the bluff, a mill-race is seen winding around a point in -the bank, suspended in mid air; and sometimes an adventurous visitor, -may be seen cautiously wending his way along the dizzy path on the -verge of the abyss. The mill-race was built, by letting a man down over -the giddy steep by a rope fastened to a tree above, who dug holes in -the bluff, in which to fasten its principal supports. A short distance -from this, up the rocky bed of the creek, is another splendid fall--not -so high as the first, but more wild and beautiful. Above these, are -three more falls, the upper one of which is the highest fall of water -of any, and is the most grand and imposing. These four falls have a -descent of four hundred and thirty-eight feet in the short distance of -a mile, and present to the eye as great a variety of the romantic and -beautiful in nature, as earth affords. - -There are Cascadilla, Six Mile Creek, Buttermilk Creek, &c. &c. many -romantic scenes and splendid falls; but it would interfere with the -design of this work to stop to describe them. I cannot, however, leave -the high falls on Taghcanic Creek without a passing notice. They are -eight miles from Ithaca, near a landing place called Goodwin's point; -and are two hundred and thirty-eight feet perpendicular! Who shall -attempt to describe such a magnificent exhibition as this; or the -effect it produces on the mind! This is said to be the favorite resort -of parties of pleasure and lovers of the picturesque. And who, but the -real invalid, would ignobly spend his time at Saratoga, when scenes -like these await him in the interior of New-York. - -After passing many fine villages, we at last arrived at the city of -Rochester. It is indeed, a large and flourishing city. It is situated -on both sides of the Genesee river, is well built, mostly of brick, -and contains over thirteen thousand inhabitants. Near the upper part -of the city, the canal crosses the river, by a splendid aqueduct of -red free-stone, eight hundred and four feet in length, having eleven -arches, and elevated fourteen feet above the common level of the water. -While the boat stopped, I went down the river to see the great falls. -They are about eighty rods below where the canal crosses, and are -ninety-seven feet perpendicular. Here _Sam Patch_ made his last leap in -the autumn of 1829. In the centre of the river, and at the verge of the -precipice over which the water falls, is a ledge of rocks, called Table -Rock, about six or seven feet in height above the water. On this Table -Rock, a scaffold was erected, about twenty-five feet high, so that from -the top of the scaffold to the bottom of the falls, the perpendicular -height was one hundred and twenty-five feet. From this giddy height, -Sam Patch made his "last jump," in the presence of a vast multitude -of people, who had assembled to witness this daring feat, and, as it -proved, fatal leap. Sam never rose from the boiling flood below; but -his body was carried by the current to the mouth of the river at the -lake, and was there found, the next spring. Who will be the biographer -of _Sam Patch_? What a pity it is some phrenologist had not examined -his head. He must have had a tremendous _jumping bump_. For myself, I -could not stand on the dizzy brink of the river, and look down into -the awful chasm below, with any tolerable degree of composure. These -things, however, much depend upon practice. A sailor would have thought -nothing of standing on the most projecting rock; or of walking along -the highest precipice. - -In 1811, the site of Rochester was a wilderness; now it is a large -city. Its great staple of trade is flour. It contains eleven flouring -mills with fifty-three run of stones; and can grind twelve thousand -bushels of wheat in twenty-four hours. - -After travelling from this place sixty-three miles, we found ourselves -at Lockport, on the _mountain ridge_. At this place, the canal has a -double row of locks adjacent to each other; five for ascending, and -five for descending; each twelve feet deep, making the ascent sixty -feet. This is the most admirable work of the whole canal. Between -the two rows of locks, are stone steps, guarded on each side by iron -railings. In 1821, there were here but two houses; now, it contains -four hundred, and is a pleasant village. - -Passengers for Niagara Falls, leave the canal here, as they are as near -them, at this place, as they would be at Buffalo. After travelling -nineteen miles, the first three of which, was through a deep cut of -limestone, from twenty to thirty feet in depth, we came in full view -of the majestic Niagara river. On the margin of this stream, the canal -passes by the village of Black Rock, to its termination at the city of -Buffalo. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - -The city of Buffalo is beautifully situated on lake Erie, near its -outlet; and possesses the advantages of a lake and canal navigation. -It is built chiefly of brick, containing many elegant buildings, and -has ten or twelve thousand inhabitants. In the harbor lay many vessels, -steamboats and canal boats, and it exhibited all the show, stir and -bustle of a maritime city. From this place, you have a fine view of the -lake, Canada shore, and the surrounding country. I was, at this time, -only twenty-three miles from the celebrated Falls of Niagara, and I -could not pass so near without going to view them. - -After spending a day in Buffalo, I took a steamboat down Niagara -river, to visit the falls. On the Canada side, you have a view of the -small village of Waterloo, near which, are the ruins of fort Erie, -the theatre of several severe battles during the late war. On the -American side, three miles below Buffalo, is Black Rock, a pleasant -village, having much romantic scenery around it. Niagara river, above -the falls, is of various breadths, from a mile and a half, to three or -four miles. After passing Grand island, I beheld the spray arising like -a cloud, from the falls; and could hear the roaring of the water. I -landed from the boat, about two miles above them on the American side, -and took a stage. Immediately on alighting at the hotel, I walked down -to the river, and beheld for the first time, the celebrated Falls of -Niagara. Such a vast body of water, falling into so deep a chasm, with -a noise like thunder, and with such power that it shakes the ground on -which you stand, strikes one with wonder and awe! One is inclined to -stand still, and gaze in silence. Other falls and deep chasms I had -seen; but this presented itself on such a gigantic scale, and so much -out of proportion to other objects of the kind, that it appeared to my -unpractised eye incomprehensible. Other and abler pens have given the -world many minute descriptions of these falls; and were it otherwise, -I have not the vanity to suppose any description I could give would -enable any one to form a full and just conception of them. - -Nature has here laid out her work upon a large scale, and with a -master hand. A mighty river, the outpourings of the great lakes above, -tumbling rapidly along for a mile over its rocky bed, here leaps -quietly down one hundred and sixty feet into the awful chasm below. -Above the falls, the banks slope gently down to the water's edge; so -that you can stand on the brink of the precipice, and put your foot -into the water where it rolls over it--below, the bank immediately -rises, and forms a chasm three hundred feet in depth. Eight or ten rods -below the falls, is the passage down to the ferry; composed, most of -the way, of enclosed wooden steps; and the remainder, of steps made in -the rocky cliff. I went down these steps, crossed over in the boat, -tossed to and fro by the boiling, raging flood; and liberally sprinkled -with the spray of the falls. On the Canada side, the bank is not -perpendicular, so that a zigzag road has been made for passengers to -travel up and down it. On this side, is the Table Rock, near the falls; -and here you have the best view of them. At this spot a flight of steps -lead to the bottom; and from this point a person can go one hundred -and fifty-three feet under the sheet of water. Dresses and a guide are -furnished to those who have the curiosity to enter. - -On my return to the American side, I walked over the bridge to Bath -island, and from that to Goat island. This last island contains perhaps -twelve acres, is covered with a fine growth of wood, has a walk near -the water, all around it, and benches and summer house to rest the -weary traveller. It divides the falls, and is probably twenty rods -wide on the cliff, over which the water pitches. At the foot of this -island, a circular enclosed stairway has been built by N. Biddle, Esq. -President of the U.S. Bank, by which a person can descend down the -cliff, between the two sheets of water. And here it was that Sam Patch -leaped one hundred and eighteen feet from a platform, made by ladders. -The trees on the island are covered with names; and the register at the -hotel not only contains names, but sentiments also. I spent an evening -very pleasantly in conning them over. - -On the Canada side there are one large hotel and some few dwelling -houses; on the American side, are two large hotels, and a fine village, -called Manchester. After spending two days at the falls, I took a seat -in the stage for Buffalo. - -New-York, I believe, possesses more of the sublime and beautiful, than -all the remainder of the United States. It has its mountains, lakes, -springs, rivers, water-falls, canals, railroads and edifices.--Other -States can shew some of these, in a greater or less degree; but as a -whole, New-York must bear the palm. Its resources are vast--it is a -nation of itself. But notwithstanding its attractive scenery and rich -lands, the "western fever" rages here as violent as on the sterile -hills of New-Hampshire. I found more families from New-York at the West -and moving thither, than from all the New-England States. They, too, -seek a better country; and some would undoubtedly be discontented if -they lived in paradise. - -At Detroit, I saw a man who said he had just made a purchase of a -tract of land near Pontiac, about thirty miles distant in a northwest -direction. He lived near Rochester, had a fine farm, raised from five -hundred to one thousand bushels of wheat a year; a ready market and the -average price one dollar a bushel; clear of debt, and growing rich; but -the lands were cheap at the West, so he sold his farm, and was moving -into the wilderness! The man was about sixty years of age: so if he has -good luck, by the time he gets a farm well cleared, a good house and -improvements, he will be too old to enjoy earthly possessions. But just -the same feeling is manifested in Kentucky, Ohio and Indiana. And even -in Illinois itself, some I found, seeking a better country farther west! - -Persons travelling to Illinois, or farther west, can take passage -in a vessel or steamboat from Buffalo to Chicago. The distance by -water is one thousand miles; for they must go through lake Erie, St. -Clair, Huron and lake Michigan. The distance by land is not so far by -one half; but the water passage is the cheapest, attended with less -hardship, and much the best way to convey goods. There are two other -routes to Chicago. Take a steamboat at Buffalo for Monroe, in Michigan -Territory; and from thence, there is a good stage route, through -Tecumseh, Niles, Michigan city, and along the south end of the lake -Michigan to Chicago--or take a steamboat to Detroit; from thence the -stage to the mouth of St. Joseph, and cross the lake in a schooner to -Chicago. My object was to see something of Michigan; so I took passage -in a steamboat for Detroit. - -On board this boat, there were probably two hundred passengers; -besides a number of horses and oxen, wagons, household furniture and -baggage.--Most of them were emigrants, chiefly destined to some part of -Michigan. The cabin passage is eight dollars--deck three dollars. Of -the whole number not more than ten took the cabin passage. We stopped -at Portland, Erie, Ashtabula, Fairport, Cleaveland and Sandusky, and -arrived at Detroit in two days--distance three hundred and five miles. - -Cleaveland is the most important place on the south shore of lake -Erie. The Ohio canal here enters the lake, so that a person can go -down this canal into the Ohio river; and from thence take steamboat -conveyance to the western States. It is quite a large town; containing -five thousand inhabitants, and has three spacious houses for public -worship, a seamen's chapel, and two banks. There are three newspapers -published here, and it shows all the stir and bustle of business and -trade. This place has rapidly increased within a few years: and if it -continues to improve in the same ratio, it will soon take its station -alongside of Buffalo and Cincinnati. Its inhabitants are very spirited -and enterprising. They have contributed, as I am informed, fifteen -thousand dollars for the purpose of levelling down some of the high -bluffs between the village and harbor, and grading the streets. - -The flood of emigration, constantly pouring onward, to the far West, is -immense. In the year 1833, about sixty thousand emigrants left Buffalo, -to go to the West by water; and in 1834, not less than eighty thousand -there embarked, besides those who took passage from other ports. No -calculation can be made, of the number that have passed along the south -shore of the lake by land; but, I was informed, a gentleman counted two -hundred and fifty wagons in one day! - -The western world is all alive. The lakes, the streams, the prairies, -and forests, are all teeming with life, and exhibit all the noise and -bustle of human industry and enterprise. In 1825 there were but one -steamboat and a few small schooners on lake Erie; now there are thirty -steamboats, and one hundred and fifty schooners and two large brigs! -And the birds and beasts of the forest are continually alarmed at the -sight of human habitations and villages, so suddenly arising, within -their own exclusive haunts and pleasure grounds! Monroe, in Michigan, -is pleasantly situated on the river Raisin, opposite to Frenchtown, -and is six miles from its mouth. It is forty miles, by water, south of -Detroit, and is the county seat for Monroe county, has a court house, -jail, land office, three hotels, twenty-six stores, and probably two -thousand inhabitants. It is situated in a fertile district, and has -a number of mills and distilleries in its vicinity. A beautiful large -steamboat, called the Monroe, was built here, the past season, and made -its first trip down the lake while I was at Buffalo. As this town is -nearer on a direct line from Buffalo to the West than Detroit, it will -shortly become the great thoroughfare of travel to the western country. - -A new town has recently been laid out, on the north bank of the Maumee -river. It takes the name of the river; and is situated on a plat of -table land elevated forty feet above the stream, at the foot of the -falls, and ten miles from lake Erie. The river is deep and navigable -for all vessels sailing on the lake. The falls are about thirty feet, -and afford an immense water power--equal to that of Lowell. It has -now fifty dwelling houses, three stores, one tavern, a saw and grist -mill; and preparations are making to erect a large number of buildings -the ensuing season, among which are four taverns. Two doctors are -already settled here; and a limb of the law was on the track to join -them. A glance at the map will at once show its favorable location, -for a large and flourishing town. The Wabash and Erie canal, and the -Cincinnati, Dayton and Erie canal, will both terminate at this place. -It is situated in the disputed territory, claimed by both Ohio and -Michigan; but if it should prove to be healthy, it will soon take rank -with Cleaveland and Detroit. It is thirty miles south of Monroe; and -about the same distance west of Lower Sandusky. A large steamboat is -now building here, to run on the lake. - -On the opposite side of the river, and about a mile above, is the -village of Perrysburg, of a hundred houses and twelve stores; but as -its site is low, and on the shoal side of the river, its location is -not therefore so favorable as that of Maumee. There are large tracts -of flat land, both to the east and west of this place, covered with a -heavy growth of timber. - -Detroit is on the river, twenty-five miles above lake Erie, and seven -below lake St. Clair. The river is about a mile wide, and the current -sets down at the rate of from two to three miles an hour. It contains -about three thousand inhabitants; many of whom are French and some -negroes and Indians. Much business is done here; and it will probably -be one of the most important frontier towns; as it possesses a safe -harbor and steamboat navigation to Buffalo, Michilimackinac, Green -Bay, Chicago, &c. It is well laid out, and has some fine streets and -buildings. Its public buildings are a court house, jail, academy, -council house, two banks; a Presbyterian, Episcopalian, Methodist, -Baptist and Catholic churches; arsenal, magazine and commissary store -house. - -The streets near the water are dirty, generally having mean buildings, -rather too many grog shops among them, and a good deal too much -noise and dissipation. The taverns are not generally under the best -regulations, although they were crowded to overflowing. I stopped at -the steamboat hotel, and I thought enough grog was sold at that bar to -satisfy any reasonable demand for the whole village.--When the bell -rang for dinner, I hardly knew what it meant. All in and about the -house jumped and run as if the house had been on fire; and I thought -that to have been the case. I followed the multitude, and found they -were only going into the hall to dinner. It was a rough and tumble game -at knife and fork--and whoever got seated first, and obtained the best -portion of dinner, was the best fellow. Those who came after, must take -care of themselves the best way they could; and were not always able to -obtain a very abundant supply. - -At night, I was obliged to sleep in a small room, having three beds -in it, take a companion and a dirty bed. In travelling, I am always -disposed to make the best of every thing, and complain of nothing if -it can be avoided. And in starting on this journey, I was aware that I -might suffer some hardships and inconveniences; and I had determined -to bear with patience every thing that was bearable; but I had not -expected to be put to the test in the old settled town of Detroit. The -house is large enough, and servants enough, but there was a plentiful -lack of decent accommodations, in and about it. - -The upper streets make a fine appearance, and are pleasant and -ornamented with some fine buildings. - -Two steam ferry boats ply constantly between this, and a small village -called Sandwich, on the Canada side of the river. On a pleasant -afternoon, I crossed the river, and walked three or four miles on the -pleasant Canada shore. From this position, Detroit shows to advantage. - -Detroit has suffered much by disease. Fevers, ague and cholera, swept -off its hundreds. But it is difficult to discover any other cause for -the great number of deaths, than the filthiness of the place, and the -dissipation and exposure of many of its inhabitants. It needs reform; -and I was informed that the subject had arrested the attention of its -best citizens, and they had commenced the work in good earnest. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - -After spending two days at Detroit, I took the stage for the mouth of -St. Joseph river, on lake Michigan--fare $9,50. The old road leads down -the river, five or six miles, and then inclines to the right into the -interior. The first forty miles is a level, heavily timbered country; -a deep, clayey soil, and a most execrable road. Sometimes the coach -became fast stuck in the deep sloughs; and we had to get out the best -way we could, and help dig it out. At others, we found logs laid across -the road for some distance, and the coach jolted so violently over -them, that it was impossible to keep our seat. We started early in the -morning from Detroit, and at ten miles stopped at a decent hotel to -breakfast. It was a framed house, and of sufficient size for a common -country tavern. - -In this day's travel, we found some good dwellings, and one brick -hotel. Late at night, "wearied and worn," we arrived at Ann Arbor, a -flourishing little village on Huron river, which empties into the head -of lake Erie, and is a large clear mill stream. The tavern house is -a large, three story building, finished and painted. A long block of -buildings for stores, a number of mills on the stream, and a few other -buildings, complete the village. - -In the morning we crossed the river, on a very good bridge, and half a -mile further, entered the upper village of Ann Arbor, much larger than -the lower one; having two taverns, a number of stores, dwelling houses, -and a court house. It is the seat of justice for Washtenaw county. Ten -miles below this, on the Huron river, is situated Upsilanti, a pleasant -village. The turnpike road from Detroit to Chicago passes through it; -on which a stage runs, carrying the U.S. mail. - -Soon after leaving this village, we came to the "oak openings." There -are three kinds of land in the western country--prairie land, entirely -destitute of timber, and covered with grass; oak openings, land -thinly covered with timber, like a northern apple orchard; and the -timber land, having a dense forest of trees. All these diversities -of appearance, we found from Detroit to the mouth of the St. Joseph; -although the bur and white oak openings seemed to predominate. - -Michigan is a level country; there are no mountains in it. It is gently -undulating, for the most part; sometimes, too level and wet. It is -abundantly watered and timbered, and a great deal of excellent timber. -I wish I could say as much of the quality of the water. The rivers, -little lakes, (and there are many of them,) streams, springs, and -wells, contain clear, pellucid, transparent water. It is indeed, too -clear to be agreeable to the eye; but it is all impregnated with lime, -or iron, or copperas, or something disagreeable to the taste; and is -in many places, very unhealthy. I do believe there is not a drop of -pure, soft water, in all Michigan. I saw none and could hear of none; -and I made much inquiry, examined every river, lake, or spring, that I -passed, and the result was, I found no pure water that would wash with -soap, or was pleasant to the palate. - -It contains much good land, many pleasant villages, fine situations, -and is settling fast; but I cannot say that it is, generally, healthy. - -It is probable, earth does not afford more rich and beautiful prairies -than are found on the route from Monroe to Michigan city. And -there are fine cultivated farms, mills and villages, and scattered -settlements, all along the southern part of the territory. But I did -not find the ruddy face and vigorous step of the East. The meagre and -pale visage, and shaking frame, spoke a language not to be mistaken. - -We passed Jackson, the seat of justice for Jackson county, near Grand -river, and Marshall, the seat of justice for Calhoun county, on the -bank of the Kalamazoo river, both flourishing villages. In this section -of the country, mill seats are plenty, and there is an abundant supply -of timber. - -At the outlet of Gull lake, I saw a well built mill, on as fine a -privilege as any one could desire. At the lake, there was a dam, which -raised the water four or five feet, and made an abundant supply in the -driest season--and fifty rods below where the mill was erected, there -was a good fall of water. - -Soon after leaving this mill, we came to Gull prairie. This was -the first prairie of much extent that I had seen; and its elegant -appearance afforded me not a little pleasure. On this prairie there is -a small village, and a beautiful prospect around it. - -The roads had become so bad, that we left the stage coach, after two -day's ride, and took a wagon, without any spring seats; and I found it -so fatiguing to ride, that I often preferred walking. When we arrived -at this little village, it was late in the evening, but we had still -twelve miles to go that night. - -It was past midnight when we crossed the Kalamazoo river, at the rope -ferry, and entered the town of Bronson. This is the seat of justice, -or as the term is here, county seat, for Kalamazoo county. The land -office, for the southern part of the territory, is also kept here. We -found a large tavern house and good accommodations, a pleasant village, -and pleasant people. - -Our route now lay through an undulating, open country for twenty miles, -when we came to a house and mill on Pawpaw river where we "ate our -breakfast for our dinner." We now crossed the stream, and travelled a -new road, generally through timbered land, passed seven or eight small -lakes, for twenty-eight miles before we came to a house. - -Here, we found two log houses adjoining each other. It had now become -night, and at this place we were to stay till the next day. I went in, -and asked the woman, if she could get us something to eat. She said, -if we would accept of such fare as she had, she would try. When we -went in to supper, I never was more agreeably surprised in my life. We -found a table neatly set; and upon it, venison steaks, good warm wheat -bread, good butter, wild honey in the white comb, and a good cup of -tea--better fare than we had found in Michigan, and as good as could be -obtained anywhere. Our accommodations at this log house in the woods, -show what people may do if they choose. And I wish some tavern keepers -of our large towns, might happen to call there, and learn a lesson -which they seem too much disinclined to learn at home. Our bill was so -moderate, we added a dollar to it, and hardly thought we had fully paid -our hostess then. - -Twelve miles further, brought us to the river St. Joseph, about a mile -above where it empties into the lake. The river here is thirty rods -wide. We crossed it in a ferry boat, and after ascending a high bluff, -we came in full view of lake Michigan and the St. Joseph village. - -This village is pleasantly situated on a high bluff, on the south -side of the river, and facing the lake; and contains sixty or seventy -houses, two taverns, some half dozen stores, two large warehouses, and -a light house. One tavern, the stores, and a few dwelling houses, are -built underneath the bluff, on the bank of the river. A steamboat plies -between this place and Niles, fifty miles up the river, as it runs, -but only twenty-five miles by land. Just above the village, is a steam -saw mill, which does a good deal of business. This place carries on -considerable trade with the interior; the staple of which is wheat. - -St. Joseph is very unhealthy. At the tavern, I found three persons -sick, and one dangerously so. I called upon the doctor, and he was sick -abed; I called upon the baker, and he was sick abed--and I passed by -another house, where the whole family, consisting of a man, his wife, -and five children, were all sick abed, and so completely helpless, -that the neighbors had to take care of them! This is no fiction. The -man's name is Emerson; from the State of New-York. Last spring he came -on to this part of the country with his family and goods in a wagon. -And when he came to Pawpaw river, where we breakfasted, he found no -road direct to St. Joseph. He accordingly cut out the road that we -had travelled to this place, and was the first who came through with -a wagon, a distance of about fifty miles. Soon after his arrival, his -eldest son, a promising youth of fifteen, accidentally was drowned in -the river. The family, one by one, were taken sick; and now, all were -sick and helpless. The man possessed great vigor of mind and body; -had bought him a farm at some distance from the village on the road -he had made, and commenced some improvements, and made great efforts -to persevere and clear it up. But who can withstand the iron grasp of -disease, or the "bold demands of death!" He beheld his family wasting -away and to all appearance, hastening to the grave; and himself, as -sick and helpless as they. A sad catastrophe this, in his prospect of -wealth and bliss in the new world! - -A schooner, called the Philip, plies regularly between this, and -Chicago across the lake; but I had to wait here three days before its -return. I spent the time in traversing the woods and the lake shore. -This lake is a clear, beautiful sheet of water, having a soft sandy -shore, and surrounded by high sandy hills. The river makes a good -harbor, but there is a sand bar at its mouth, on which there is not -more than five or six feet of water. The average width of the lake is -sixty miles. - -The distance from Detroit to St. Joseph is two hundred miles, and we -had been five days and a half in travelling it. The road was as good -as could be expected in a country so new, and so thinly inhabited. -The land generally is good, and will support a dense population. The -southern part of the territory is thought to contain the best land, and -there are indeed some beautiful prairies. Prairie Round is among the -most beautiful. It contains a number of thousand acres of high, level, -and smooth land; and in the centre there are a hundred acres of higher -land, covered with a beautiful growth of trees. - -The best part of Indiana is on the border of Michigan, and extending -south, on the Wabash river. The southern part of the State contains a -good deal of hilly, rocky and sandy land, unfit for cultivation. - -A territorial road has been laid out from Detroit to St. Joseph; and -a survey of a railroad has been made, nearly on the line of the road, -between the two places; but some time will elapse, before either are -completed. - -Wild game is plenty; deer, ducks, bears, wolves and squirrels are in -sufficient quantity to keep the hunter awake. - -Upon the whole, if good water and good health could be found, Michigan -would be a very desirable country in which to reside. - -As soon as the vessel was ready to depart, I took passage in her. We -sailed round the south end of the lake, and stopped at Michigan city, -a village of twenty or thirty houses, and twelve stores, situated on -the corner of Indiana, among the sand hills of the lake. A small stream -here empties into the lake but affords no harbor for vessels. Some -enterprising citizens have determined to make it a large town; but -nature does not seem much to have seconded their efforts. It is forty -miles from St. Joseph, and just the same distance from Chicago. The -stage road, from Michigan city to Chicago, is, most of the way, on the -sandy beach. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - -Chicago makes a fine appearance when viewed from the water. It has -a light house, fort and barracks in which a garrison is kept, and -many elegant buildings. It is regularly laid out, on the south side -of Chicago river; the streets running parallel with it, and others -crossing them at right angles. The harbor being too much exposed, a -breakwater is building, so as to render it secure and safe for the -shipping. The town is already compactly built, for more than a mile in -length, and about half that distance in width; and there are a dozen -houses on the north side of the river, with which it is connected by -an elegant bridge. It has thirty-six stores, some of which are large -and elegant, and built of brick; and seven large taverns, filled -with guests to overflowing. It is now, about the size of Exeter, in -New-Hampshire, and is rapidly increasing. Vessels and steamboats come -here from Buffalo, laden with goods and merchandize; and it is the -great thoroughfare for travel to the western country. The trade of -all the upper country centres here; and when the canal is completed, -connecting the lake with the waters of the Illinois river, it must -become the largest town in the State. It is built on a level prairie, -open in full view to the lake, and the soil is enough mixed with sand -to prevent its being very muddy. The lake supplies the town with good, -wholesome water, and as far as I could judge, it is quite healthy. - -While I was at Chicago, the Pottawattomie tribe of Indians, came there -to receive their annuity from the United States government. I could not -accurately ascertain their number, but probably, there were between one -and two thousand, men, women and children. I had before seen the small -remnants of Indian tribes at the north; but never had I seen such a -large body of western Indians assembled together. I had much curiosity -to see them, and learn something of the Indian character. In this I was -fully gratified. - -Those who have formed high notions of the stateliness and chivalry -of the Indian character, might gain some new ideas, by witnessing, -day after day, the actions and movements of the Pottawattomies. It is -painful to state it, but truth compels me to say, their appearance was, -with but few exceptions, that of a drunken set of miserable vagabonds. -They were generally mounted on horseback, men, women and children; some -had small bells for their horses--some had blankets on, and others had -coats and pantaloons, similar to the whites; and many of them, had -jewels in the nose and ears, and the face painted in various colors and -forms, so as to give them either a ludicrous, or a terrific appearance. - -To all this, perhaps, no one has a right seriously to object. It is -merely a matter of taste; and if they choose to exhibit themselves -in the various hues of the rainbow, or in the terrific aspect of a -warrior, I am willing they should be gratified. But their actions -were beneath the dignity of man, or of beast. They encamped near the -town, on the border of the lake; and above it, on the margin of the -river. I walked all through their encampment, and saw them frequently -in the streets. I found them, generally, bickering, quarrelling, or -fighting; or running their horses through the town, and displaying all -the antics of madmen. Day after day, and night after night, they were -carousing, shouting and fighting. On the lake shore, one of them killed -his wife, by splitting her head open with a hatchet, and then fled! I -did not learn what became of him. - -They are also much addicted to theft. Too lazy to work, they had -rather steal whatever they desire, that comes in their way; and this -propensity and practice has been a fruitful source of the border wars, -between the whites and Indians. - -I have seen hundreds of negroes together on their holidays; when they -had free access to intoxicating liquor if they chose; when they gave -themselves up to pastime and pleasure; and I do say, they appeared much -more civil and decent to themselves and to others, than the Indians. -They did not seem, like the Indians, to lose _all_ self respect. The -negroes generally appear to possess amiable dispositions; and are -faithful friends; are much more pliant and teachable; and if I must -dwell with either negroes or Indians, give me the negroes. - -If the former mode of paying the government annuity to the chief of a -tribe, were objectionable, the present mode of paying each individual, -seems to me to be equally, if not more objectionable. I was informed -that the gross sum of seventy thousand dollars was paid to them -individually; each one an equal portion of that amount. But after -spending a few days in carousing at Chicago, they left the town as -they will finally leave the world--carrying nothing with them! - -It appears to me, some different regulations, respecting the Indians, -ought to be adopted. The money now paid them, upon the whole, seems -to do them more hurt than good. Might not the government pay them -in specific articles, instead of money, such as blankets, clothing, -implements of husbandry, &c. There would not be then quite so much -inducement for speculators to prey upon them. - -As to civilization, I am not so sanguine as some are, that it can -be done. The Indians seem to be naturally averse to the restraints -and labor of civilized life. To beg or steal is much more agreeable -to them, than to labor for subsistence. Any thing that looks like -work, they despise. In all cases, where they have come in contact -with the whites, it has been death to the Indian. At the approach of -civilization, they wither away and die; and the remnants of tribes -must flee away to the fastnesses of the wilderness, or perish in the -withering grasp of civilized man. They are to be pitied; but their -unprovoked murders and savage cruelties have steeled the heart against -them. Their cold-blooded murders, in the late war in Illinois, of men, -women and children, and their indecent mutilation and exposure of their -bodies when dead, cannot soon be forgotten or forgiven. Black Hawk, the -cold-blooded instigator and leader in this war, dared not return from -his trip to the East through Chicago, and the theatre of his cruelties. -He probably will never again set his foot on the eastern shore of the -Mississippi. - -The country back of Chicago, for the distance of twelve miles, is a -smooth, level prairie; producing an abundance of grass, but too low and -wet for cultivation. The Chicago river is formed by two branches, which -meet at the upper end of the village. The branches come from exactly -opposite directions, and after running some distance, parallel with the -lake, and about a mile from it, here meet each other, and turning at -right angles, flow in a regular straight channel, like a canal, into -the lake. On each side of the town, between these branches and the lake -shore, there is, for some distance, a good growth of wood and timber. -On the lake shore, there are naked sand hills; and these are found all -around the lake. - -This world has undergone great changes since its original creation. -In examining the western country, I came to the conclusion, that a -large portion of it was once under water; and that the lakes formerly -discharged their waters into the sea, through the Illinois and -Mississippi rivers. - -The lakes Michigan, Huron, St. Clair and Erie, are now about -twenty-five feet lower than lake Superior. The falls of St. Mary, at -the outlet of the upper lake, are nothing more than rapids. The water -descends twenty-two feet in the distance of three quarters of a mile; -and although canoes can pass them either way, yet they are impassable -to steamboats and vessels. Some years ago, a large vessel did go down -them in safety. It was built on lake Superior, by the north-western Fur -Company, but was found to be too large to be useful in their trade. It -was taken to the falls of St. Mary, and some Indians were hired to take -it down the rapids. They happened to go down in safety; and the vessel -was afterwards sold at Buffalo. Now, the probability is, that these -lower lakes were once nearly on a level with lake Superior; and their -outlet was at the south end of lake Michigan, instead of the Niagara -river. - -Eight or ten miles from the present limits of lake Erie, there is -a regular, well defined shore, once washed by the water; plainly -indicating that the lake was once about twenty feet higher than it now -is. If lake Michigan were ten feet higher than its present level, its -waters would flow into the Illinois river. The Oplane, a branch of the -Illinois, approaches within twelve miles of the lake; and the land -between is low and level. When the water is high, boats now pass from -the lake to the river. At a time of high water, a steamboat attempted -to pass from the Illinois to the lake. After running a day from Ottawa -up the river, the water began to subside, the captain became alarmed, -lest his boat might run aground, and returned. - -The valley of the Illinois river, plainly indicates that a much larger -stream once run there. Had its channel been formed by its present -quantity of water, it would have been not more than forty rods wide; -but now, it carries a breadth of from fifty rods to more than a mile; -it is, therefore, full of shoals and sand bars. The high banks all -along down the stream, are about two miles apart; and the space between -them not occupied by the river, is either a low marsh or a narrow lake. - -When the lakes were high, aided probably by a strong west wind, the -water broke through in the direction of Niagara river; and in process -of time, wore a deep channel, drained the lakes to their present level, -and dried up their outlet, at the south end of lake Michigan. This is -my theory; and whoever will examine the country around the lakes, may -not deem it so wild and extravagant a one, as has been advanced and -believed by mankind. - -Many of the inhabitants of Chicago are from the eastern part of -the country--civil, enterprising and active. I found good society -here--much better than I had expected in a place so new, and of such -rapid growth. - -House rent is high, and provisions are dear. Last spring, potatoes were -sold for a dollar and a half a bushel; and this fall the current price -is a dollar. All this is owing to the rapid increase of the place, and -the immense travel through it. When more houses are built, and the -country back of it becomes settled, living will, undoubtedly, be cheap. -To the man of enterprise and business, it affords as good a location as -any in the western country. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - -At Chicago I found three young men from New-England, who were -travelling to see the western country. We hired two horses and a wagon, -at seventy-five cents a day, and started together into the interior of -Illinois, west of Chicago. - -It was past the middle of October; the air was mild and clear, and the -earth dry. The prairie, which in the spring of the year is so wet and -muddy as to be difficult to pass, we found dry, and a good smooth road -over it; so we travelled merrily on. At the distance of twelve miles -the ground became elevated a few feet, and we found a fine grove of -timber, a few log houses, and the Oplane river. At this place the roads -fork--one goes south, to Ottawa on the Illinois river--the other goes -in a westerly direction, to Galena on the Mississippi. Stages run from -Chicago, over each of these roads to both places, carrying the U.S. -mail. - -The roads in this country are in a state of nature. But the ground is -so smooth, and so entirely free from stones, that when the earth is -dry, you do not find better roads at the north. Indeed, you can travel -in a carriage over most part of the country, woods and all. - -We took the Galena road, forded the river, a stream about four rods -wide, and passed on, over a beautiful, open, prairie country, here -and there a log house, a small grove of timber, or small stream of -water; the land high, dry and rich, and arrived at night at Naper's -settlement, on the Du Page river, thirty-seven miles from Chicago. -Naper was the first settler here. He keeps a public house, very decent -accommodations; has a store and mills, and is forming a village around -him. Here is a large grove of good timber. - -We now left the Galena road and took a course more northerly to the -_big_ and _little woods_, on Fox river. In travelling twelve miles we -came to the settlement at the lower end of "little woods." In the space -of three miles, we found about twenty families, all in comfortable log -houses; fields fenced and cultivated; a school house erecting, and -a master hired to keep two months. And among the whole number only -one family had been there two years; the remainder had none of them -been there quite a year. The houses were built near the timber, and a -beautiful rich prairie opened before them. - -The man who had been here two years, had a hundred acres under fence; -raised a large crop of corn and wheat, and had sold at Chicago, only -thirty miles distant in a straight line, two hundred and twenty bushels -of potatoes for as many dollars. He had built a weir across the river -to catch fish, which I walked down to see. He took his boat, went out -to the pen, and dipped out with a small net half a boat load of fish. - -This is a land of plenty sure enough; and if a man cannot here find -the luxuries of the city, he can obtain all the necessaries of life in -abundance. - -Fox river is a clear stream of water, about twenty rods wide, having a -hard limestone bottom, from two to three feet deep, a brisk current, -and generally fordable. On its banks, and on some other streams, we -occasionally found ledges of limestone; but other than that, we found -no rocks in the State. - -We here forded the river, and travelled all day on its western bank. -We found less timber on this side of the river. On the east side, it -is generally lined with timber to the depth of a mile or more; but the -west side is scarcely skirted with it. It is somewhat singular and -unaccountable, but we found it universally to be the fact, that the -east side of all the streams had much the largest portion of timber. - -We passed a number of log houses, all of which had been built the -present season, and came at last to the upper house on the river. The -man told us, he had been here with his family only three days.--In -attempting to get at the head of population, we more than once thought -of the story of the Ohio pumpkin vine; and concluded if we accomplished -it, we should be obliged to run our horses. He said, in the morning, -his was the upper house on the river; but a man had made a location -above him, and perhaps had already built him a house. - -We went a few miles above this, forded the river, passed through -the woods into the open prairie, and started down the east side. We -travelled on, until it became dark. We were in an open prairie, without -any road, a cloudy night, and had no means of directing our course. It -was a great oversight, but we had no fire works with us, and the wolves -began to howl around at a distance. We concluded, we should be obliged -to stay out that night, and without any fire. A man accustomed to the -new country, would probably have thought nothing of it; but to me, who -had never lodged out doors in my life, to be obliged to camp out in a -new country, and among the wolves, and such other wild animals as chose -to come along, it was not quite so pleasant. I confess I began to have -some misgivings in my own mind, whether this new world ought, in fact, -to be called a paradise. - -We knew that if there were any houses in that region, they would be -near the woods; we accordingly obliqued to the right, and after some -time travelling saw a light, which led us to a house. - -These log houses generally have one large room, in which the family -cook, eat and lodge; and if any strangers come, they lodge in the same -room with the family, either in a bed or on the floor, as may be the -most convenient. They are built of logs locked together at the corners; -the interstices filled with timber split like rails, and plastered over -with clay. The roofs are covered with shingles about four feet long; -the chimneys are built on the outside, with wood, and lined with clay; -and the floor is made of split timber. Many of them are quite neat and -warm. - -The next day, we passed a few miles down the river, crossed it, and -travelled twenty or thirty miles west, towards Rock river. Our whole -course lay through an open prairie. We could see timber on either -hand. This day we found a number of gravel hills, the tops of which -were coarse, naked gravel, and looked white at a distance. They were -from ten to twenty feet high. We walked up to the top of the highest -one, and had an extended view of the surrounding country. From this -elevation, we could see the timber on the border of Rock river. - -We obliqued more to the south, came to a grove of timber and a house. -Here we stayed that night. The next day we took a southeasterly -direction, passed one house, and came to Fox river, where the Galena -road crosses it. We forded the river, and travelling over an open -rolling prairie twenty miles in a southeasterly direction, came to -Walker's grove, on the Du Page river, forty miles south of Chicago. -Here we found a tavern, saw and grist mill, and something of a village, -having two or three framed houses among the log huts. - -The U.S. mail stage passes from Chicago through this place, Ottawa, -Peoria and Springfield to St. Louis; and agreeably to our previous -arrangement, I here left my companions, who returned to Chicago; and -I took the stage for the south. I had travelled with them just long -enough to be fully sensible of the great loss I sustained at parting. -Thus it is with the traveller. He forms acquaintances and finds -friends; but it is only to part with them, probably forever. - -Before I go into the lower part of the State, I shall stop here, -and say a few words of the appearance, present condition and future -prospects of the northern part of Illinois. I feel in some degree -qualified to do this, not only from my own observation, but from -information obtained from intelligent and respectable sources. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - -The northern part of Illinois is beautifully diversified with groves of -timber and rolling prairies. The timber consists of the various kinds -of oak, rock and white maple, beach, locust, walnut, mulberry, plum, -elm, bass wood, buckeye, hackberry, sycamore, spice wood, sassafras, -haws, crab apple, cherry, cucumber, pawpaw, &c. There is some cedar, -but little pine. The shores of Michigan have a large supply of pine -timber, and from this source the lumber for buildings at Chicago is -obtained. - -The prairies are sometimes level, sometimes gently undulating, and -sometimes hilly; but no where mountainous. The soil is three or four -feet deep; then you come to a bed of clay two or three feet in depth, -and then gravel. The soil is a rich, black loam; and when wet, it -sticks to the feet like clay. Manure has no beneficial effect upon it; -but where it has been cultivated, it produces an abundant crop, the -first year, not quite as good as succeeding years; and it seems to be -quite inexhaustible. - -The prairies are covered with a luxuriant growth of native grass, -which, when it gets its full growth is generally about as high as a -man's shoulders.--They are destitute of trees, shrubs, or stones; and -although the surface may be undulating, yet it is so smooth, that they -can be mown as well as the smoothest old field in New-England. In the -spring of the year, a great variety of beautiful flowers shoot up -among the grass; so that the face of nature exhibits the appearance of -an extended flower garden. The prairie grass is unlike any kind I have -seen at the north; but it affords excellent fodder for horses, neat -cattle and sheep. A finer grazing country I had never seen. The grass -appears to have more nourishment in it, than at the north. I saw beef -cattle, fatted on the prairie grass alone, and I challenge Brighton to -produce fatter beef, or finer flavored. - -Towards the lake, the land is gently undulating; farther west, on Fox -and Rock rivers, it is rolling; and as you approach Galena on the -Mississippi, it becomes more hilly and broken. All this country seems -to lack, is timber and water. There are rivers enough, but not many -small streams and springs. But both of these defects can in a good -measure be remedied. Good water can be obtained almost any where by -digging wells from twenty to thirty feet in depth; and fuel must be -supplied by the coal, which is found generally in abundance throughout -the State. Bricks can be used for building; and hedge rows for fences. - -The coal is excellent for the grate. It burns free, and emits such a -brilliant light, that any other in a room is hardly necessary. It is -now used in many places, in preference to wood, although that is now -plenty. Blacksmiths use it for the forge; and at one shop, the man -told me he could dig and haul enough in half a day to last him a month. - -The government of the United States granted to the State of Illinois -a tract of land ten miles in width and eighty miles in length, -extending from Chicago to Ottawa, for the purpose of making a canal -to connect the waters of the lake with the Illinois river, and within -these limits, it is supposed the canal will pass. This tract has been -surveyed, put into market and much of it sold; but most of the land in -the northern part of the State had not even been surveyed when I was -there. Not a survey had been made on Fox river. The settlers took as -much land as they pleased, and where they pleased; and as there was an -abundance for all, none found fault. Before this time, I presume, the -land has been surveyed; and the peace and quietness of the Fox river -settlement, may have been a little disturbed by the _carelessness_ of -the United States' surveyors, in running lines somewhat diverging from -the stakes and fences which its early settlers had set up as the bounds -of their farms. - -But a large portion of the northern half of the State, is not in the -market, and perhaps may not be for two years to come. This very land, -however, is settling every day. All a man has to do, is to select his -land and settle down upon it. By this act he gains a _pre-emption -right_ to one hundred and sixty acres; and before the auction sale, -enters his land at the land office, pays a dollar and a quarter an -acre, and receives his title. When land has once been through the -auction and not sold, it can be taken at any time, by paying a dollar -and a quarter an acre, and receive a title. - -Upon the whole, I think the upper part of Illinois offers the greatest -inducements to the emigrant, especially from the northern States. It -is a high, healthy, beautiful country; and there are now plenty of -good locations to be made. A young man, with nothing but his hands -to work, may in a few years obtain a competency. The whole country -produces great crops of wheat, corn and potatoes, and all the fruits -and vegetables of the north. Apple and peach trees grow faster and more -vigorous here than at the east; and there is a native plum tree, which -bears excellent fruit. - -I took much pains to ascertain whether it was subject to the fever and -ague; and from the inquiries I made, and the healthy appearance of the -people, I am persuaded it is not. I found only one person sick with -that disease, in all the upper country, and she was an old woman from -Indiana; and she told me she had it before she left that State.--There -is plenty of game--the prairie hen, about the size of the northern hen, -deer, ducks, wild turkies, and squirrels; also an abundance of wild -honey. - -There is another reason why the northern part of the State is -preferable. Chicago of itself is, and will be, something of a market -for produce; but it is the best spot in the whole State, to carry -produce to be transported to a northern market. From this, it is -carried all the way by water to New-York city; and the distance is -no greater than from the middle and lower parts of the State to -New-Orleans, and the expense of transportation the same. - -But after all, there is no such place as a perfect elysium on earth; -and to this bright picture of the new world, there must be added some -slight shades. In the first place there are many prairie wolves all -over the country, so that it is almost impossible to keep sheep. In -travelling over the country, I have started half a dozen in a day; they -did not appear to be very wild; but they seldom or never attack a man, -unless retreat is cut off, or sorely pressed by hunger. They are of a -brown color, and of the size of a large dog. The men have a good deal -of sport in running them down, and killing them.--They take a stick, -mount a fleet horse, soon come up with them, and knock them on the head. - -A man on Fox river told me he made a wolf pen over a cow that got -accidentally killed, and caught twelve wolves in one week! As the -country becomes settled they will disappear. There are but few bears; -the country is too open for them. I had one or two meals of bear -meat, but it is not at all to my taste. Then, there are the prairie -rattlesnakes, about a foot long. Their bite is not considered very -dangerous. There is a weed, growing universally on the prairie, that -is a certain cure for it. They are not, however, plenty. Men told me, -that they had passed a whole year without seeing one. - -Then, to prey upon the fields of the husbandman, there are the -blackbirds and squirrels. They are the same in kind with those of the -north, and their rapacity seems to have lost nothing, by living at the -west. The blackbird is not a bird of the forest; it only follows close -upon the heels of population. - -The winters are as cold, perhaps, as at the north, but of shorter -duration. They commence later and end earlier. The Indians make their -poneys get their living in the winter; and cattle will live if they -can have a range in the woods; but the farmer can have as much hay as -he chooses, only for the cutting; the good husbandman will, therefore, -have enough to keep his cattle in good heart during the winter. - -Men are apt to judge of a new country by the impulse of feeling. The -enthusiastic admirer of nature, when he beholds the extended prairies, -lofty groves and pellucid streams, represents it as a perfect paradise. -But those who think more of good roads, good coaches, good houses -and good eating, than they do of the beauties of nature, curse the -whole country and quit it in disgust. But to prevent all mistakes, -be it known to all whom it may concern, that in this new country, -fields do not grow ready fenced and planted, and elegant houses beside -them; pancakes are not found on trees, or roasted pigs, running about -squealing to be eaten. - -The jaundiced eye sees nothing in its true light. - - ----"The diff'rence is as great between - The optics seeing, as the object seen; - Or fancy's beam enlarges, multiplies, - Contracts, inverts, and gives a thousand dyes." - -Many anecdotes were told me, of the different views the same individual -would have of the same place, under different circumstances. An -emigrant from Vermont, with his wife, children and goods, started for -the western world in a wagon. The country was new, and the roads so bad -that their progress was slow and fatiguing. At length, after enduring -many privations and hardships in a journey of twelve hundred miles, -they safely arrived in Illinois, and located themselves on a fine, rich -spot of ground, in the interior. He hastily threw up a temporary hut -for their present accommodation; but they were all too much wearied and -worn, vigorously to exert themselves. He became sad himself; his wife, -unable to restrain her feelings, began to sob aloud, and the children -joined the concert. They could not divert their thoughts from the home, -neighbors and friends they had left. The prairie and wild wood had no -charms for them. After three or four days of despondency, they picked -up their goods, loaded their wagon, and trudged all the way back again -to Vermont. Vermont had, however, lost _some_ of its charms. It did -not appear quite so fine as they had expected. After spending another -cold winter there, they began to think Illinois, upon the whole, was -the better place; and that they had been very foolish in leaving it. -So, they picked up their duds again, returned to the same spot they -had left, and were satisfied, contented and happy. The man has now an -excellent farm, good house, and an abundance of the necessaries and -conveniences of life. In short, he is an independent farmer, and would -not now, upon any consideration, return to Vermont. - -An instance, in some respects similar to this, occurred some years ago, -in an emigrant from the western part of the State of New-Hampshire.--He -sold his farm, and started for Ohio. His wife and children, and a -portion of his furniture, he put into a large wagon, drawn by three or -four yoke of oxen; and three cows of a peculiar breed, he also took -with him. They proceeded on about five hundred miles, probably as far -as Buffalo, when they all became weary, and so excessively fatigued -with their journey, that they lost all relish for the western country, -and wished themselves back again. At this time, they held a council, -and agreed, without a dissenting voice, to return to New-Hampshire. -They accordingly wheeled about, cows and all, and trudged back to the -town they had left; having performed a journey of a thousand miles with -an ox-team, at great expense, and apparently to no beneficial purpose -whatever. He did not, however, like the Vermonter, again return. - -But the result of the trip was not so disastrous as had been -anticipated. At the very time of their return, a much better farm than -the one he had left was offered for sale for ready money. He bought -it at a reduced price, and immediately settled upon it. He then made -a calculation upon his present and former condition; and after taking -into consideration the expenses of his journey, the sale of one farm -and purchase of another, he found himself worth at least a thousand -dollars more than he was previous to the transaction! - -And here, I would give a caution to the emigrant who intends to -settle in the western country, not to place implicit confidence in -what the inhabitants of one section may say of other portions of it. -If they mean to be honest in giving an opinion, self-interest as in -other places, strangely warps their judgment. Land holders and actual -settlers are anxious to build up their own village and neighborhood; -and therefore, they praise their own section and decry the others. At -Detroit, we are told that Monroe is a very sickly place; at Monroe, -Detroit is unhealthy; and both will concur that Chicago is too -unhealthy for an emigrant to think of enjoying life in it. In Michigan, -that is the most healthy, pleasant and best portion of the West; in -Illinois, that becomes the promised land. Indeed, so contradictory -are their statements, that little reliance ought to be placed upon -them; and the better way for the emigrant is, if he cannot obtain the -necessary information from disinterested travellers, to go and examine -for himself. Eastern people, who travel no farther than Michigan, -generally form an unfavorable opinion of Chicago and Illinois; but were -they to travel over that State, they would soon change their opinion. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - -But I have dwelt long enough on the upper country. I took the stage -and travelled twenty-five miles over an open prairie, passing only one -house, and arrived at night at Holderman's grove. This is a pleasant -grove of excellent timber, having by its side a number of good houses -and large cultivated fields. - -The next morning, we rode fifteen miles to Ottawa, where we -breakfasted. Here the Illinois and Fox rivers join, and appear to be -nearly of equal size, both about twenty rods wide. The village is on -the east side of the Illinois river, which we crossed in a ferry boat. -A tavern, some houses and stores are built on a small flat under the -hill, and a number of houses on a bluff, two hundred feet above the -river. Steamboats come up as high as this place, unless the water be -quite low. If it be not a sickly place, I am much mistaken. The fever -and ague seems to be the prevailing disease. I have observed that -situations on the western rivers are generally unhealthy. - -The river diverges to the west, and the road down the country -immediately leaves it. In travelling twenty-five miles, I found myself -fourteen from the river. Here, I left the stage, and went to Hennipen, -a small village on the Illinois river. It is regularly laid out on a -high, level prairie, which extends three miles back, and consists of -two taverns, four stores, a dozen dwelling houses and a court house--it -being the seat of justice for Putnam county. I found a number of people -sick in this place with the fever and ague. - -Here I crossed the river, about fifty rods wide, in a ferry boat, and -found on the other side about two miles of heavy timbered bottom land, -subject to overflow. From this, I ascended a high bluff, passed three -or four miles of oak openings, and then came into the open prairie. - -Ten miles from the river, a new town, called Princeton, is laid out in -the prairie, on the stage road leading from Peoria to Galena. Three -buildings, one of which is a store where the post office is kept, had -been erected when I was there; but as it is in a healthy situation, and -surrounded by a beautiful rich country, it may in time become a large -village. - -I travelled some distance in a northerly direction, between great and -little Bureau rivers. The larger stream has a number of mills upon -it. The country around here, is too similar to the upper part of the -State to need a particular description. High rolling prairies, skirted -with timber, every where abound in this region, and present to the -eye a most beautiful landscape. It is mostly settled by people from -New-England; and they appeared healthy, contented and happy--and are in -fact, becoming rich and independent farmers. - -One northern man I called upon, whose past and present condition may be -similar to many others. I will state it for the edification of those -who live on the rocky soil of New-England. While at the north, he lived -on a hilly and rocky farm; had a large family, and was obliged to work -hard and use the strictest economy, to support them, and meet the -current expenses of the year. Tired of severe labor and small gains, he -sold his farm and moved to the State of Illinois. He had been here two -years; has now one hundred acres under fence; raised the present season -fifteen hundred bushels of corn, three hundred of wheat; has seventy -head of neat cattle and sixty hogs. He has a fine timber lot near his -house, in which is an abundance of the sugar maple. He had killed, the -present season, four beef cattle, the last one just before I called -upon him; and fatter and better flavored beef I never saw. All the -cattle grow exceedingly fat on the prairie grass; so much so that corn -will add nothing to it. A saw and grist mill are within seven miles -of him. He was getting out timber, and intended to put up a two story -house in the spring. I enquired particularly as to the health of his -family and neighborhood. He informed me it had been very healthy; his -own family had not any of them been sick abed a day, since they came -into the country. Two of his daughters are well married, and settled on -farms near him. Let every farmer at the north, who has to tug and toil -on the sterile and rocky soil of New-England, to support his family, -judge for himself, whether it is better to go to the West, or stay -where he is. Whether, in fact, it is better to struggle for existence, -and feel the cold grasp of poverty, or to roll in plenty and live at -ease. - -This region was somewhat the theatre of Indian cruelties in the last -war with the whites. One northern man became their victim in this -settlement. His name was Elijah Philips, of New-Hampshire. When he was -at the age of twenty-one, he took his pack on his back, travelled to -the West, and located himself in what is called the Yankee Settlement, -on the Bureau river. He was a persevering, hardy son of the North. He -built a house, fenced in a field, obtained some stock and a few hogs; -and was in a fair way to gain a competency and become an independent -farmer. Just at this time, the Indian war broke out, with the -blood-thirsty Black Hawk as a leader. - -Murders having been committed above them, the settlers deemed their -situation insecure, and fled to the east side of the Illinois river. -After remaining there awhile, the war still raging, and its termination -uncertain, seven of the settlers armed themselves with guns and -bayonets, took a wagon, and went to the settlement to bring away such -articles of household furniture and husbandry as they could; fearing -the Indians might destroy them. They spent the day in collecting their -articles together. At night, they left them and the wagon where they -were, and concluded to go themselves to a house half a mile below, -which was deemed more secure. Here they slept quietly all night, opened -the door early in the morning, looked all around, but saw no signs of -Indians. Philips and another young man said they would go up to the -other house and commence loading the wagon. They started off together. - -In about twenty rods from the house, the path led along by a point of -timber that made out into the prairie; and when they had gone about -half way to this point, the other young man stopped, returned back, -and Philips passed on alone. He had just got into the house, when he -heard a piercing cry of alarm from Philips, and in a moment after, the -report of two guns. On running to the door, he saw Philips prostrate on -the ground, and twenty or thirty Indians leaping out of the thicket. -He rallied his companions, as they had not all yet risen, caught two -guns, handed one to a man near him, and by the time they reached the -door, the Indians were coming round the corner of the house. On seeing -the guns with fixed bayonets, they dodged back. In a moment, they were -all at the ends and rear of the house, rending the air with their -astounding war cry, flourishing their tomahawks in menace and defiance; -but took special care not to come in front of the door. The settlers -were all young men--the onset had been so sudden and boisterous, that -they were taken entirely by surprise, and hardly knew what they did. -On a moment's reflection, they concluded, if they contended manfully, -there might be some chance for life. Although the number of Indians -might be ten to one of theirs, yet they had the advantage of being -within a well built log house, impenetrable by balls. - -Spirited and prompt action saved them. While the Indians were hovering -round, in doubt what course to take to dislodge them, they dug out a -chink between the logs in the rear, and thrust out their guns. The -moment this was done, the Indians changed the tone of their yells, -leaped for the woods, fell flat on their faces and crawled unperceived -away. - -They now felt relieved from immediate danger. They knew there was a -company of horse at Hennipen, fifteen miles distant; and their only -safe course seemed to be, to send for them if they could. They had a -horse with them, and he was feeding on the prairie about thirty rods -from the house, nearly on the opposite side from the spot where the -Indians entered the woods; but as they could not know where they might -be, none deemed it prudent to go out to catch him. They called the -horse, however, and although he was one generally hard to catch, he now -started at once, came to the door, thrust in his head and stood still -while the bridle was put on. One of their number mounted, and rode -express to Hennipen. - -In the afternoon, the troop arrived; reconnoitered the neighborhood; -found the Indian trail; followed it a number of miles; but they had -gone beyond their reach. On a further examination of the woods, it was -apparent, the Indians had been hovering around them all the day before -while at work; but were too cowardly to attack them, although they knew -the smallness of their number. - -The situation of affairs at night they also knew full well. They truly -supposed that _all_ would pass the spot where they lay in ambush, in -the morning. But accidentally, _one_ passed alone, and discovered them, -and was undoubtedly the cause of saving the lives of all the rest. -But had the other young man passed on instead of returning, and why -he did not, he never could tell, although the question was asked him -immediately after the transaction, he also would have been killed; and -in that event, probably all the others would have been sacrificed; for -it was quite early in the morning, and they had not risen. - -On examining Philips, they discovered that two musket balls had entered -his body--one in the region of the heart, so that he must have died -immediately. His remains were carried to Hennipen for interment; and -when I passed that way, I stopped at his grave to show, what I felt, -respect to his memory. On a small eminence in the open prairie, half -a mile east of the village, repose the remains of Elijah Philips. And -although no monumental inscription tells the spot where he so suddenly -started for eternity, or "storied urn" adorns his grave; although of -humble birth, yet he was a young man of much vigor and enterprise, and -bid fair to become a useful member of society. Let his memory live "in -story and in song," and be handed down to posterity with that of the -other victims of savage cruelty. - -No apprehensions are now entertained by the settlers, of attacks by the -Indians. Black Hawk and his followers have gone beyond the Mississippi, -and only a few remnants of Indian tribes remain in the whole State. -Years will not efface the memory of the many deeds of extreme cruelty, -committed by the Indians in this short, yet bloody war. Acts of cruelty -and outrage were perpetrated, too horrid and indecent to mention; and -so perfectly useless as it respected the result of the war, that they -could have been committed only to glut a most fiend-like and savage -vengeance. - -I cannot admire the Indian character. They are sullen, gloomy and -obstinate, unless powerfully excited, and then, they exhibit all the -antics of madmen. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - -After spending a few days viewing the country in this vicinity, I -again crossed the river at Hennipen, and passed on to the stage road. -The next day, I took the stage, and went to Peoria, the county seat -of Peoria county, which stands on the site of fort Clark. This is -quite a village. It is regularly laid out on a beautiful prairie, on -the western bank of the Illinois river; has a brick court house, two -taverns, a dozen stores, and about twenty dwelling houses, some of them -quite elegant. It is eighty miles from Ottawa, one hundred and sixty -from Chicago, one hundred and fifty from Galena, one hundred and fifty -by land and two hundred by water from St. Louis. - -The river here swells out to more than a mile in width, and the -opposite shore is low, marshy land. Peoria seems to be subject to -bilious fevers and the fever and ague; but I could perceive no cause -for its being unhealthy, unless it was the river and marshy land on the -other side. The water is brought to the village in an aqueduct, from -a high bluff, half a mile back of it, and appeared to be excellent. -A number of deaths had occurred, previous to my arrival; and I saw a -number of pale-faced invalids. - -In coming to this place, I passed over a fine country, much more -settled, with larger fields and more extensive improvements than I -found in the upper part of the State; but still it was diversified with -rolling prairies and groves of timber. While the mail was changing at -one of the post offices, I passed on and came to a log school house, -where all the scholars studied aloud. This was quite a novelty to me. -More discordant sounds never grated on the ear; and if the master had -a musical one, he must have been severely punished. I asked him, if -his scholars commonly studied in that manner; and he said they did, -although he thought they now hollowed a little louder than usual. This -inconvenient practice of some of our ancient schools, I supposed had -been entirely done away; but on enquiry, I was informed it still held -its sway to some extent in many of the western States. - -Stages run from Peoria (through Springfield), to St. Louis, to Galena, -and to Chicago. There is a rope ferry just below the village, where -the river is narrow. It is a place of a good deal of business, quite -a thoroughfare for travellers; and it is supposed by some that it will -shortly become the seat of the State government. I spent three days -here, then took passage on board a steamboat for St. Louis. - -I have often remarked, that the amount taxed by taverners, is, -generally, in an inverse proportion to their accommodations; that is, -the less they furnish their guests, the more they charge. In my present -trip, I have more than once been reminded of an anecdote related to me -some time ago, of a tavern keeper at the south. A gentleman with his -family, travelling in the westerly part of Virginia, was obliged one -night to put up at one of the small country taverns, more suited to -the accommodation of the teamster who sleeps in his wagon, than to the -entertainment of gentlemen and ladies. They were furnished with the -best the house afforded, but it was mean in kind and badly prepared. -Some of them were obliged to sleep on the floor, and those that were -accommodated with beds, were exceedingly annoyed by the insects they -contained. The gentleman arose early, ordered his carriage and asked -the landlord the amount of his bill. He told him, _thirty dollars_! -The gentleman stared; but at length asked him, what he had had to the -amount of thirty dollars, or even five dollars. The landlord very -politely assured him that his was a reasonable charge, for says he, I -hire this establishment at the annual rent of thirty dollars, and this -I must charge to my customers; the year is almost out, and you are the -only available guest I have had; therefore I have charged the whole -amount to you. The gentleman laughed heartily; and considering it too -good a joke to be spoiled by any fault on his part, very pleasantly -handed him over the thirty dollars. He that travels much in the world, -may have occasion to fear the _rent day_ is near at hand. This frank -explanation of the Virginia landlord has furnished an easy solution -to _some_ tavern bills I have paid, that otherwise would have been -entirely inexplicable; and perhaps it may be equally useful to other -travellers. - -The Illinois river is a wide, sluggish stream; clear water, but -generally, hardly any perceivable current. It is a very shoal river, -having many sand bars.--Our boat did not draw more than two feet -of water, yet was continually running aground. I should think the -lead was thrown a quarter part of the time; and it used to amuse me, -sometimes, to hear the leadsman sing out "_two feet and a half_"--"_two -feet large_"--"_two feet_"--"_two feet scant_,"--and then aground; -and perhaps it would be half a day before we could get afloat again. -We were seven days going to St. Louis--rather slow travelling, and -somewhat vexatious; we thought, however, we might as well be merry as -sad, so we made the best of it. The captain had as much reason as any -of us to complain; for we took a cabin passage, and he had to board -us, however long the passage might be. All along down, the country is -rather low, except some bluffs on the river--and where we found a -bluff on one side, there would be either a low marsh or a lake on the -other. Probably, there are twenty lakes below Peoria, on one side or -the other of the river. They were all long and narrow, and often had -an outlet into the river. They appeared more like former beds of the -stream, than any thing else. - -Pekin is twenty miles below Peoria, on a high bluff, the east side of -the river, having two taverns, thirty houses, and a large steam flour -mill. Sixty miles below this, on the same side of the river, is a large -village called Beardstown. Here are large flour mills, saw mill, &c. -all carried by steam.--Twenty miles below this, is a small village -called Naples. - -As we approached the Mississippi, we saw a good many stately bluffs -on the right hand bank, composed of limestone, and rising almost -perpendicular, from two to three hundred feet high. Some of them are -really grand and beautiful. - -At length, with no small degree of pleasure, we came in full view of -the majestic Mississippi river. The moment our boat entered the stream, -it felt its power, and started off with new life and vigor. It seemed -something like travelling, after leaving the sand bars and sluggish -current of the Illinois, to be hurried down the Mississippi at the rate -of eight or ten miles an hour. - -We soon reached Upper Alton, a large flourishing village of recent -origin. Here, are large steam flour mills, and large warehouses; and -in the centre of business is located the State Prison! There is no -accounting for taste; but it appeared to me rather singular, to see a -prison of convicts brought forward into the centre of a village to be -exhibited as its most prominent feature. The reason may have been, to -keep it constantly in _view_ as a "terror to evil doers." This is the -last town we stopped at in Illinois--and on taking leave of the State, -I may be allowed to add a few words respecting it. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - -Illinois is three hundred and fifty miles in length; one hundred and -eighty in breadth; and lies between thirty-seven and a half, and -forty-two and a half degrees north latitude. It contains fifty thousand -square miles--equal to forty millions of acres. It is divided into -fifty-five counties, and, probably, now contains more than two hundred -thousand inhabitants. All the streams, lakes and marshes are lined -with a fine growth of timber, sometimes a mile or two in width, and -sometimes merely a narrow strip. And as the southern part of the State -contains the most low, wet land, it has also the most timber. The -high land is generally prairie; but there are some exceptions to this. -I found quite a number of beautiful groves of timber on high land; -sometimes there were only scattering trees, called oak openings. - -It is probably as level as any State in the Union. At the northwest -of Shawneetown, there is a range of hills; and high bluffs are seen -along the banks of the Mississippi and Illinois rivers. In the mineral -regions at the northwest corner of the State, there are high hills, and -the land is somewhat broken; but the largest portion of the State is -composed of gently rolling prairies. These prairies are some of them -level and wet, but generally, they are high, dry and gently undulating. -They all have an exceedingly fertile soil, and are covered with tall -coarse grass and a great variety of beautiful flowers. The soil is a -rich, black loam, entirely inexhaustible, and produces abundant crops -without the aid of manure. In some of the old settled towns at the -lower part of the State, the same spot of ground has been cultivated -with Indian corn for a hundred years, and it now produces equally as -well as it did at first. In the time of strawberries, thousands of -acres are reddened with this delicious fruit. But this country, which -so delightfully strikes the eye, and has millions of acres that invite -the plough, wants timber for fuel, building and fences. It wants good -water in many places, and in too many instances, the inhabitants want -health. These evils will probably all be remedied by the expedients of -cultivation. Bricks will be used for building; coal and peat will be -used for fuel; hedges and ditches will be made for fences; forests will -be made to grow on the prairies; and deep wells will be sunk for pure -water. - -There is a fine tract of rich level land extending along the eastern -shore of the Mississippi about eighty miles in length, and from three -to six miles in width. It commences near New-Alton, and terminates -a little below Kaskaskia. About half of its width bordering on the -river, is covered with a heavy growth of timber; the remainder is a -level prairie; and in the rear it is bordered by a stately bluff of -limestone. It is undoubtedly the richest land in the world. Settlements -have been made upon it to some extent, but it is not very healthy. It -is called the American Bottom. A bottom very similar to this, either on -one side or the other, marks the whole course of the Illinois river. - -More than five millions of acres have been surveyed, between the -Mississippi and Illinois rivers, and assigned by Congress for military -bounty lands. These lands embrace all the varieties of soil found in -the State--rich bottoms, swamps, prairies, timbered lands, high bluffs -and barrens. The northeast part of it is deemed the most pleasant and -healthy. - -On Rock river, the Kaskaskia, Wabash, Fox, Du Page, Macoupin and -Sangamon are large tracts of first rate land. And very similar to -this, are Grand prairie, Mound prairie, the Marine Settlement prairie, -and the one occupied by the New-England Christians. - -In the region of Sangamon river, nature has delighted to bring together -her happiest combinations of landscape; being beautifully variegated -with woodland and lawn, like sunshine and shade. It is generally -a level country; the prairies are not too extensive, and timber -abounds in sufficient quantity to support a dense population. In this -beautiful section of the new world, more than two hundred families, -from New-England, New-York and North Carolina, fixed their habitations -before it was surveyed. The land is exceedingly rich and easily -cultivated. It now constitutes a number of counties and is probably as -thickly settled as any part of the State. The Sangamon itself is a fine -boatable river, and has throughout its whole course, pure, transparent -water and a sandy bottom. It enters the Illinois river on the easterly -side, about one hundred and forty miles above its mouth. - -The Kaskaskia river has a long course in the central part of the State, -and the lands upon its borders are happily diversified with hill, vale, -prairie and forest. On its banks are Kaskaskia, the former seat of -government, and Vandalia, the present metropolis. - -The region of Rock and Fox rivers is a beautiful and healthy portion -of the State. The land is rich; the prairies are high, dry and gently -undulating and surrounded by excellent timber. The only faults are, -the prairies are too large for the quantity of timber, and there are -not a sufficient number of springs and small streams of water. But it -is a very pleasant and desirable portion of the country, and I believe -more emigrants are now directing their course thither, than to any -other portion of the State. It has one advantage over all the western -section of country, it is more healthy. I believe it is as healthy as -any portion of the United States. - -Although there are some bodies of sterile and broken land in the -State, yet as a whole, it contains a greater proportion of first -rate land than any other State in the Union; and probably as great -according to its extent as any country on the face of the globe. One -of the inconveniences attending this extensive rich country, is too -great a proportion of prairies. They cover more than half of the whole -State.--But the prevalence of coal and peat, and the ease with which -forest trees may be raised, will render even these extensive prairies -habitable. - -The original cause of these extensive prairies in all the western and -southern country is altogether a matter of conjecture. There is no -natural impediment in the soil to the growth of forest trees over the -whole extent of the country. It is certain that the fire is the cause -of continuing them in existence; for where the fire is kept out, trees -spring up in them, in a few years, and their growth is vigorous and -rapid. - -There are many reasons for the belief, that this western country was -once inhabited by a more civilized race of beings, than the present -hordes of wild Indians. Specimens of fine pottery and implements -of husbandry have been found in various parts of the country; and -brick foundations of a large city have lately been discovered in the -territory of Arkansas. These, together with the stately mounds and -remains of extensive fortifications, indicate that the country was once -inhabited by a race of men, who cultivated the soil for a subsistence, -and were well acquainted with the mechanic arts. From whence this race -of beings came, or whither they went, is alike unknown to us. Since -they left, the fire has made the cleared land much more extensive. -The fire, in very dry weather, and accompanied by a high wind, after -scouring over the prairies, takes to the woodland and destroys the -timber. Last fall, I saw hundreds of acres of woodland, so severely -burnt over, that I had no doubt the trees were generally killed. But in -some places, the forest gradually gains upon the prairie; and could the -fire be kept within proper bounds, the western country would soon have -an abundant supply of timber. But this cannot well be done. The Indian -sets the prairie afire, for the conveniency of hunting--the emigrant -sets it afire, so that the fresh grass may spring up for his cattle; -and so between them both, they all get burnt over. And when once -kindled, the fire goes where the wind happens to drive. - -This State has great advantages for inland navigation by means of its -rivers. On the east, it is washed by the Michigan lake and Wabash -river; on the south, by the Ohio, and on the west, by the Mississippi. -The most important river within the State is the Illinois. It rises -near the south end of lake Michigan, runs in a southerly direction -about three hundred miles, and falls into the Mississippi, thirty -miles above St. Louis. Its two chief head branches are the Kankakee -and Oplane; this latter river runs within twelve miles of the lake, -and the space between is a low, wet prairie, so that it might easily -be connected with its waters. From the north, comes in the Du Page, -a larger stream than the Oplane. At Ottawa, eighty miles south of -Chicago, comes in Fox river. This is by far the largest tributary of -the Illinois, and at their junction is nearly equal to it in size. In -all descriptions of the State, mention is hardly made of Fox river; -but it is the next in size to the Illinois and Rock rivers, and is -one of the most beautiful streams in the whole State. It rises in the -territory west of lake Michigan, runs with a lively current, in a very -straight channel, from its source to its mouth. It heads in a lake, -and this accounts for the fact, that it is not, like other streams, -subject to freshets. It is generally fordable--the water is not more -than about three feet deep, and the bottom is sand and pebbles. It is -a clear stream, abounding in fish, and withal, passes through the most -healthy part of the State. - -On the west side, nearly opposite Hennipen, comes in the Bureau river. -This is a good mill stream, and is composed of two branches, the one -called Great and the other Little Bureau; and these branches join -about five miles west of the Illinois. These branches, on the maps, -bear the names of Robertson's and James' river, but for what reason I -know not. On this river is a large settlement of northern people, and -many families from the State of New-Hampshire. Below this, the most -material tributaries are the Vermillion and Sangamon from the east, and -Spoon river from the west. Whatever others may say, I cannot call the -Illinois a pleasant stream. It has a marsh on one side or the other -from its mouth to its source, and is full of shoals and sand bars. I -passed down the river in a boat that drew less than two feet water, but -it often run aground. The worst bar is just below Beardstown. We had to -lighten the boat of its freight, water in the boiler, and passengers, -before we could pass this bar; and then, the hands had to jump into -the water and push the boat over. For about two hundred miles from -its mouth, it has many long and narrow lakes, of about the width of -the river itself; and probably they were formerly its channel. These -lakes generally have an outlet into the river, and these so much -resemble it, that a person not well acquainted with the stream, would -be puzzled to know what channel to take. The river occupies too much -ground for its quantity of water, and for about half of the year, it is -a difficult stream to navigate. - -Rock river rises beyond the northern limits of the State in the high -lands which separate the waters of the Mississippi from those of lake -Michigan. It is a large, beautiful stream, has a lively current, and -enters the Mississippi fifty miles below Galena. In the Mississippi -near its mouth, is a beautiful island, on which is situated fort -Armstrong. - -The other principal streams which enter the Mississippi are Fever -river, Parasaw, Kaskaskia, and Cahokia. No large streams enter the Ohio -or the Wabash, from this State; but some of them are navigable by keel -boats. - -In the region of Galena are the richest lead mines in the world. Copper -ore has also been discovered. The State abounds in mineral coal, which -is excellent for the grate. It burns freer than the Pennsylvania coal, -and emits much more light. Salt is made in large quantities at the salt -works, near Shawneetown. - -In the southern part of the State, cotton will grow in a favorable -year, and it is cultivated to some extent for family use. This -conclusively shows a milder climate than in New-England. In the -northern section, in the region of the vast prairies and lakes, the -wind sometimes blows strong and keen in the winter. It is not subject -to the strong chilly easterly winds so severely felt along the Atlantic -coast. During the year, the climate is undoubtedly more mild than that -of New-England. Apple, pear and peach trees grow vigorously and produce -abundantly. In the spring of the year the air becomes fragrant with the -blossoms of fruit trees and wild flowers. - -The soil and the climate are well suited to the production of wheat, -Indian corn, potatoes, and all garden vegetables. The crops are -abundant and of an excellent quality. The prairies every where abound -in wild grass, and afford an inexhaustible range for cattle, horses and -sheep. The grass is very nutricious, and it may with truth be said, -there is not a finer grazing country in the world. - -The most prevalent diseases are bilious fevers and the fever and ague. -These are caused by stagnant water and swamps. Removed from these, -good health is generally enjoyed. The consumption, the scourge of -New-England, is never known in all the western country. In some parts -of the lower section of the State, the inhabitants have been afflicted -with a disease called _milk sickness_. It, in the first place, affects -the cattle, and never occurs until the frosts of autumn. These frosts -kill the grass on the high prairies, and induce the cattle to go into -the low bottoms and woods, where vegetation remains green. It has -been discovered that the disease is caused by the cattle's eating a -poisonous vine which grows luxuriantly in these bottoms. After eating -this vine, the animal appears weary and faint, travels with difficulty, -droops, and at length dies. If men or animals partake of the milk of -the cows, when they are thus disordered, they are affected in the same -manner. Men, however, sometimes recover. This disease is not confined -to Illinois. Near the rich bottom lands in Indiana and Missouri, -animals and men have been affected with it. In the northern half of the -State, I was informed, that not an instance of milk sickness had ever -been known. - -There are no _large_ towns in Illinois, but quite a number of -flourishing villages. Danville, near the eastern line of the State, is -quite a flourishing town; and here the land office for the northern -section is kept. It is one hundred and thirty miles south of Chicago, -and it is supposed, that the office will shortly be removed to that -place. Springfield, situated on a branch of the Sangamon river, is -near the centre of the State, and is a large, flourishing village. -It is sixty miles south of Peoria, about thirty east of the Illinois -river; and it is highly probable that it will become, shortly, the seat -of the State government. The most important towns on the Mississippi -river, are Galena, Quincy, Alton, Edwardsville, and Kaskaskia; on the -Ohio river, are Trinity, America and Shawneetown; on the Wabash, are -Palmyra, Lawrenceville, Palestine, Sterling, &c. and in the interior, -besides those we have before mentioned, are Vandalia, the present seat -of the State government, Jacksonville, Maysville, Hillsborough, Salem, -and many other small villages; besides quite a number of _paper towns_, -that may in time have a "local habitation," in addition to their high -sounding names. - -Chicago is now the largest town in the State; and as it is favorably -situated for trade, it will probably continue to take the lead in time -to come.--Vandalia, the present seat of government, is pleasantly -situated on a high bank of the Kaskaskia river. Respectable buildings -for the accommodation of the government and the courts have been -erected. The village contains about a hundred houses; some of them, -built of brick and elegant. - -Kaskaskia is the oldest town in the State. It is pleasantly situated -on an extensive plain upon the bank of the river of the same name, and -eleven miles from its mouth. It was settled as early as Philadelphia, -by the French, and once contained seven thousand inhabitants; but now -it numbers not more than one thousand. This was formerly the seat -of government; it was removed to Edwardsville, then to Vandalia; -but it will probably be destined to take one more remove, either to -Springfield or Peoria. - -Galena, on the Mississippi, near the northwest corner of the State, -began to be settled in 1826. It is three hundred and fifty miles north -of St. Louis, and about one hundred and fifty west of Chicago. It now -contains between one and two thousand inhabitants, forty-two stores and -warehouses, and two hundred houses. It is the seat of justice for the -county, and has ten thousand inhabitants in its vicinity. - -The same provisions here for schools have been made as in the other -western States. In addition to one thirty-sixth part of all the -public lands, three per cent. on all the sales is added to the school -fund. It is in contemplation to establish an university. For this -purpose a sixth part of the school fund and two entire townships -have been appropriated. Rock Spring theological school, under the -superintendence of the Baptists, is a respectable academy in the Turkey -Hills' Settlement, seventeen miles east of St. Louis. It has fifty -students.[1] Primary schools are found in the villages and populous -neighborhoods; but in many places there is much need of them. - -The representatives and senators are chosen once in two years; the -governor and lieutenant governor in four years. The judiciary consists -of a supreme court and other county courts. All free white male -citizens, who have resided in the State six months, are entitled to the -right of suffrage; and they vote at elections _viva voce_. - -[Footnote 1: This school has recently been removed to Alton.] - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - -The prairies in the western country are all burnt over once a year, -either in spring or fall, but generally in the fall; and the fire is, -undoubtedly, the true cause of the continuance of them. In passing -through the State I saw many of them on fire; and in the night, it -was the grandest exhibition I ever saw. A mountain of flame, thirty -feet high, and of unknown length, moving onward, roaring like "many -waters"--in a gentle, stately movement, and unbroken front--then -impelled by a gust of wind, suddenly breaks itself to pieces, here and -there shooting ahead, whirling itself high in air--all becomes noise, -and strife, and uproar, and disorder. Well might Black Hawk look with -indifference on the puny exhibition of fireworks in New-York, when he -had so often seen fireworks displayed, on such a gigantic scale, on his -own native prairies. - -A prairie storm of fire is indeed terrific. Animals and men flee before -it, in vain. When impelled by a strong breeze, the wave of fire passes -on, with the swiftness of the wind; and the utmost speed of the horse -lingers behind. It then assumes a most appalling aspect; roars like a -distant cataract, and destroys every thing in its course. Man takes to -a tree, if he fortunately can find one; sets a back fire; or, as a last -resort, dashes through the flame to windward, and escapes with life; -although often severely scorched; but the deer and the wolf continue to -flee before it, and after a hot pursuit, are run down, overwhelmed and -destroyed. - -Much caution should be used, in travelling over an open prairie -country, in the fall of the year, when the grass is dry. Instances were -told me, of the entire destruction of the emigrant and his family by -fire, while on the road to their destined habitation. - -I had heard much of the _backwoodsmen_, and supposed, of course, I -should find many of them in Illinois; but after diligent search, I -found none that merited the appellation. The race has become extinct. -Who are the inhabitants of Illinois? A great portion of them, from -the north, recently settled there, and of course, possessing the same -hospitality, sobriety and education as the northern people. They went -out from us; but they are still of us. A person will find as good -society there, as here; only not so much of it. The upper house on Fox -river settlement, was occupied by an intelligent and refined family, -recently from Massachusetts. - -Meeting houses and school houses are rare, owing to the sparseness -of the inhabitants; but the country is settling rapidly, and these -deficiencies will soon be supplied. Indeed, so rapidly is the country -settling, that in writing this account of it, I sometimes feel like the -man who hurried home with his wife's bonnet, lest it should be out of -date, before I could get it finished. - -Emigrants, going to settle at the West, with their families, would -do well to take their beds, bedding, a moderate supply of culinary -utensils, the most essential of their farming tools, and a good supply -of clothing. These articles are all high there, and somewhat difficult -to be obtained. The more cumbersome of household furniture, such as -chairs, tables, bedsteads, &c. are not so essential; because their -place can be supplied by the ruder articles of domestic manufacture. In -the new settlements, most of the families had chairs or benches, tables -and bedsteads, made on the spot by the husbandmen. - -Provisions are cheap, but vary in price according to the demand. Corn, -at Beardstown, is worth twelve and a half cents a bushel; at Hennipen, -twenty-five cents; and on Fox river, fifty cents; and other articles in -proportion. - -When the settler arrives at his location, his first business is to -build a log house, which is soon done; then fence in a field, and -it is ready for the plough. The prairie breaks up hard at first, -requiring four yoke of oxen; but after the first breaking, a single -horse can plough it. A good crop is produced the first year; but better -in succeeding years. He had better hoe his Indian corn. It keeps -the ground clear of weeds, and increases the crop; but half of the -cornfields are not hoed at all. - -In the fall of the year, he must take especial care that his crops, -stacks of hay, fences, &c. are not burnt, in the general conflagration -of the prairies. To prevent this, as good a method as any is to plough -two or three furrows around his improvements, and at a distance of -about two rods plough as many more; and in a mild day, when the grass -is dry, burn over the space between. If he neglects this, he must keep -a good look out in a dry and windy day. If he sees a smoke to windward, -it will not do to wait until he can see the fire; he must summon all -hands, and set a back fire. With a strong breeze, fire will sometimes -run over the dry prairies faster than a horse. The inhabitants are -often too negligent in this particular. While I was there, a number of -stacks of hay and grain, and two or three houses were burnt, from the -mere negligence of their owners. - -But I must bid adieu to the beautiful State of Illinois. To the -practical husbandman, and to the enthusiastic admirer of the beauties -of nature, it is alike attractive; and in which, they both will find -ample scope for the exercise of the powers of body and of mind. - -After two or three hours stay at Alton, we started down the stream; -and in seven miles, came to the mouth of the turbid Missouri. Here, -two mighty rivers join their forces, and rolling on with irresistible -power, for thirteen hundred miles, mingle with the waters of the ocean. -The great Missouri, after traversing a vast extent of country, in -various directions, here bears directly down upon the Mississippi; but -the latter, like a coy maiden, shrinks back, recoils at his approach, -and seems to decline the rude embrace; and they travel on together for -forty miles, before the Missouri can unite its muddy waters with those -of the clear and transparent Mississippi. Here, the Missouri, having -at length gained the complete mastery, holds throughout its undisputed -sway; and gives its own peculiar complexion to the united stream. - -The appearance is, indeed, quite singular; to see the two rivers -passing along, side by side, in the same channel, such a long distance, -without mingling their waters; and the line, between the muddy and -clear water, is so well defined and distinctly marked, that it can -readily be seen from the shore. - -On the western bank of the river, seventeen miles below the mouth of -the Missouri, is the town of ST. LOUIS. The view was fine and imposing, -as we approached it by water; and it is the most pleasantly situated -of any town on the banks of the Mississippi. It stands on an elevated -plain, which gradually rises from the water, to its western extremity. -Back of it, there is a level and extensive prairie, and above the -village, are a number of stately Indian mounds. St. Louis is the most -important town in all the western country; and there is not a town in -the world, such a distance from the sea, that in commercial advantages -can at all compare with it. When we consider its situation, near the -junction of two mighty rivers, the one navigable twenty-five hundred -miles, the other one thousand, and the large navigable branches of -each, and see that this place must be the centre of trade for the -whole, it requires not the gift of prophecy to designate this spot, -as the site of the greatest city of the West. It is now a large town, -chiefly built of brick; has a brisk trade; and probably contains seven -or eight thousand inhabitants. There was a time, when the only craft -on the river was keel boats, and the transportation of goods, arduous -and expensive. Then, this place struggled slowly into existence, and -sometimes remained stationary, or rather declined; but the introduction -of steamboats started it into newness of life and vigor. Its trade is -now daily extending itself, and the town is continually increasing -in population and buildings. A dozen steamboats were lying at the -landing--some bound high up on the rivers; others, to Pittsburgh and -New-Orleans. This seems to be a sort of "half way house," between the -upper and lower country; being a place of general deposit for goods, -destined either way. And St. Louis will never have to contend with a -rival; for there is no other suitable spot near the junction of the two -rivers, to locate a city. She will, therefore, continue to increase in -size, wealth and beauty, and remain in all time to come, the undisputed -"Queen of the West." - -There is a land office kept at St. Louis; and plenty of government -land to be obtained for a dollar and a quarter an acre. It is chiefly -settled by Americans; but French settlers are found, and in St. Louis -there are a large number. Considerable trade in peltries is carried on -with the Indians, who come to the principal towns and exchange their -skins for goods. They are continually seen in the streets of St. Louis. - -St. Louis has a theatre, and we attended it.--Quite a decent edifice, a -tolerable play, and a full and fashionable audience. I could perceive -no essential difference between this assembly and those of Boston -or New-York. Good society is found here. The streets at night were -quiet; or only disturbed by the sound of the violin on board the flat -boats, or the merry boatman's song. The sky was serene, the air mild, -and we had many a pleasant walk through the town and its environs. -Indeed, there is a peculiar balmy softness in the air, grateful to -the feelings, not to be found in our northern climate. St. Louis is -a pleasant place; and were it not for the stacks of bar lead on the -shore, and some slight peculiarities in the customs of its inhabitants, -it could hardly be distinguished from an eastern city. A steam ferry -boat plies between this place and the opposite shore, and affords a -large profit to its owner. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - -Missouri contains sixty thousand square miles, being two hundred and -seventy miles in length and two hundred and twenty in breadth. It lies -on the west side of the Mississippi river, between thirty-six and forty -degrees north latitude. It now contains, probably, one hundred and -fifty thousand inhabitants, of whom thirty thousand are slaves. - -A large tract of this State, commencing at its south end, extending -up the Mississippi river above the mouth of the Ohio, and running -into the interior, possesses rich alluvial soil, but is low, swampy, -full of lakes, and much of it, subject to overflow. Beyond this to -the west, the country is broken and hilly; sometimes covered with a -small species of oak, and sometimes naked sandy hills and plains.--The -whole southerly half of the State, offers but small inducements to -the farmer. Where the soil is rich, it is too low and unhealthy; -where it is high, dry and healthy, it is too barren and sterile to be -cultivated. The best portion of the State lies between the Missouri -and Mississippi rivers. This section is the most settled of any part -of the State. Its surface is delightfully variegated and rolling, and -possesses large tracts of rich alluvial and high prairies. The soil -contains a greater proportion of sand, than that of the other western -States; so that it is easily cultivated, and is never disagreeably -muddy. There are spots where we find the stiff clayey soil of Ohio -and New-York; but they are not extensive. No part of the globe, in a -state of nature, can so easily be travelled over in carriages as this. -Even in spring, the roads cannot be called muddy or difficult to pass. -There are two extensive tracts of heavily timbered upland, similar -to those of Ohio and Kentucky--the one is called the Bellevue, the -other the Boone's Lick Settlement. The surface rolls gently and almost -imperceptibly. In this region are many springs of good water, and it is -said to be healthy. - -The Mississippi is skirted with a prairie, commencing ten miles above -the mouth of the Missouri, for the distance of seventy miles. It is -about five miles in width, and possesses an excellent soil. - -There are no prairies of any considerable size on the borders of the -Missouri, within the limits of the State; but its banks are generally -covered with a beautiful growth of tall, straight forest trees. The -bottom land on this river is about four miles in width, is sufficiently -mixed with sand to prevent its being muddy, and is not subject to be -overflowed. There are no bayous, ponds or marshes on the margin of the -Missouri. The bottoms are now considerably settled for four hundred -miles above its mouth. Charaton, over two hundred miles up the river, -is the highest compact settlement. But the largest and most populous -settlement in the State is Boone's Lick, in Franklin county. This is -one hundred and eighty miles above the mouth of the river. Scattered -settlements are, however, found along the river banks for six hundred -miles, to the Council Bluffs. Above the Platte, which is the largest -tributary of the Missouri, the prairies come quite in to the banks of -the river, and extend on either hand, farther than can be measured by -the eye. This is the general complexion of the river banks until you -reach the Rocky mountains. - -As far as the limits of this State extend, the river is capable of -supporting a dense population for a considerable distance from its -banks. Above these limits, it is generally too destitute of wood and -water to become habitable by any people, except hunters and shepherds. -All the tributaries of the Missouri are generally copies of the parent -stream, and one general remark will apply to the whole. They all have -narrow margins of excellent bottom land; and as the country recedes -from these, it becomes more and more sandy, barren and destitute of -water, until it resembles the deserts of Arabia. - -Wheat and corn are generally the chief productions, and the soil -is excellent for both. The whole western country is remarkable for -withstanding the severest droughts. A crop has never been known to -fail in the driest seasons. From twenty-five to thirty bushels to the -acre is an average crop of wheat, and from fifty to seventy-five, -of corn.--The good lands in Missouri produce corn in as great -perfection as in any part of the world. It is warm, loamy land, and -so mellow that it is easily cultivated. Even where the sand appears -to predominate, great crops are produced. The soil, in the vicinity -of the Missouri, is more pliant, and less inclined to be muddy, than -that on the banks of the Mississippi. Rye, barley, oats, flax, hemp, -tobacco, melons, pumpkins, squashes and all garden vegetables flourish -remarkably well. Peaches, pears, plums, cherries, &c. grow to great -perfection. The land seems well adapted to the use of plaster, and this -is found of excellent quality, in inexhaustible quantities, on the -banks of the Missouri. - -Beyond all countries, this is the land of blossoms. Every prairie is an -immense flower garden. In the spring, their prevailing tint is that of -the peach blossom--in summer, of a deeper red--then a yellow--and in -autumn, a brilliant golden hue. - -The natural productions of the soil are abundant. The red and yellow -prairie plum, crab apples, pawpaws, persimons, peccans, hazelnuts and -walnuts are generally found in perfection and abundance. Wild hops -cover whole prairies; and two or three species of grapes are found in -various parts of the State. The heats of summer and dryness of the -atmosphere render this suitable for the cultivation of the vine. Silk -might also be raised in great abundance, as the mulberry tree is every -where found among the trees of the forest. Near New-Madrid, cotton is -cultivated. - -Bears, wolves and panthers are found here. The prairie wolf is the -most numerous and mischievous. Deer, as the Indians retire, grow more -plenty, and are frequently seen in flocks feeding near the herds of -cattle. There is a species of mole found here, and indeed in all the -western and southern country, called gopher. These animals live in -communities, and build small eminences of a circular form and about a -foot high. They are mischievous in potatoe fields and gardens. - -Rattlesnakes, copper heads, and ground vipers are found in the -unsettled regions; especially, near flint knobs and ledgy hills. They -are not so common as in more timbered regions. It is probable that the -burning of the prairie destroys great numbers of them. The waters are -covered with ducks, geese, swans, brants, pelicans, cranes and many -other smaller birds. The prairie hen and turtle dove are numerous. - -The domestic animals are the same as in other States. This State and -Illinois have decided natural advantages for the rearing of cattle, -horses, hogs and sheep. - -A distinguishing feature in the climate, is in the dryness and purity -of the atmosphere. The average number of cloudy days in a year is not -more than fifty, and not more than half that number are rainy. The -quantity of rain is not more than eighteen inches. The sky in summer -and autumn is generally cloudless. There are no northeast continued -rains as in the Atlantic States. The longest storms are from the -southwest. - -The usual diseases are intermittent and bilious fevers. Sometimes -pleurisy and lung fevers prevail in winter. Pulmonic complaints, -attended with cough, are seldom; and consumption, that scourge of the -East, is unknown. - -The summers are quite warm, and sometimes oppressive; but generally, -a refreshing breeze prevails. The winters are sometimes cold, and the -wind blows sharp and keen. The Missouri is frozen sufficiently strong -to bear loaded teams. But days are found even in January, when it is -agreeable to sit at an open window. A few inches of snow occasionally -fall, but there is hardly any good sleighing. - -This State is known to be rich in minerals, although a large portion -remains yet unexplored. Lead has been found in abundance. The principal -"diggings" are included in a district fifteen miles by thirty in -extent; the centre of which is sixty miles southwest from St. Louis, -and about half that distance from Herculaneum, on the Mississippi. The -earth is of a reddish yellow, and the ore is found embedded in rock and -hard gravel. Fifty diggings are now occupied, from which three millions -of pounds of lead are annually sent to market. It is transported from -the mines in wagons, either to Herculaneum or St. Genevieve, and from -thence by water to New-Orleans. Stone coal abounds, especially in the -region of St. Louis and St. Charles. Plaster, pipe clay, manganese, -zinc, antimony, red and white chalk, ochres, flint, common salt, -nitre, plumbago, porphyry, jasper, porcelain clay, iron, marble and -the blue limestone of an excellent quality for lime, have already been -discovered in this State. Iron, lead, plaster and coal are known to -exist in inexhaustible quantities. - -St. Louis is much the largest town in the State. It is not only the -most pleasantly situated, but has the most favorable location for trade -of any town on the Mississippi above New-Orleans. It has, however, been -sufficiently described. - -St. Genevieve is situated about a mile west of the Mississippi on the -upper extremity of a beautiful prairie. It is principally settled by -the French and contains about fifteen hundred inhabitants. It is an old -town, and has not increased for the last thirty years. - -Jackson, the seat of justice for Cape Girardeau county, is twelve miles -west of the Mississippi, contains one hundred houses, some of them -built of brick and handsome. - -The town of Cape Girardeau is situated on a high bluff of the -Mississippi, fifty miles above the mouth of the Ohio. It has a fine -harbor for boats, and commands an extensive view of the river above and -below. It exhibits marks of decay. - -Potosi is the county town of Washington. It is situated in the centre -of the mining district, in a pleasant valley sixty-five miles southwest -from St. Louis. St Michael is an old French town among the mines. -There are some other small villages in the vicinity of the mining -district. - -Herculaneum is situated among the high bluffs of the river, thirty -miles below St. Louis. There are a number of shot towers in its -vicinity. New-Madrid is fifty miles below the mouth of the Ohio. -Carondolet is a small French village six miles below St. Louis; and -four miles below this, is the garrison, called Jefferson Barracks. -The public buildings are extensive, and a large number of soldiers -are generally stationed here. There are no large villages on the -Mississippi above the mouth of the Missouri. Palmyra is probably as -large as any. The others are Louisianaville, Troy and Petersburg. - -There are a number of fine villages on the banks of the Missouri; the -largest of which is St. Charles, twenty miles from the mouth, and just -the same distance from St. Louis by land. It is situated on a high -bank of solid limestone, has one street of good brick houses; and in -its rear, an extensive elevated prairie. It contains a protestant -and a catholic church, was once the seat of government, and numbers -twelve hundred inhabitants; a third of whom are French. It has finely -cultivated farms in its neighborhood, and has as interesting scenery as -any village in the western country. - -Jefferson City is the present seat of government, but being thought -to be an unfavorable location has not improved as was expected. It is -situated on the south bank of the Missouri, nine miles above the mouth -of the Osage river, and one hundred and fifty-four by water from St. -Louis. Fifty miles above this, is the town of Franklin. It is situated -on the north bank of the river, contains two hundred houses and one -thousand inhabitants. It is surrounded by the largest body of rich -land in the State; and is the centre of fine farms and rich farmers. -Boonville is on the opposite bank of the river and was originally -settled by Col. Boone, the patriarch of Kentucky. Bluffton, two hundred -and twenty-nine miles by water from St. Louis, is the last village -within the limits of this State. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - -When we were ready to start, not finding a steamboat bound to -New-Orleans, which would go under a day or two, we took passage, as far -as the mouth of the Ohio, in one bound to Pittsburgh. - -On the eastern side of the river, to the mouth of the Ohio, it is a -level country, (with only one exception) called the "American Bottom," -and is as fine, rich land as earth affords; but is somewhat subject -to overflow, and is supposed not to be very healthy. Settlements are, -however, making upon it. On the west side we found a number of stately -bluffs of limestone, rising from the water perpendicular two or three -hundred feet. - -I was much amused to see the "screw auger grist mills" on the bank of -the river. A place is selected where the current sets strong along the -shore; and a log seventy feet long, three or four feet in diameter, -having a board float a foot in width from stem to stern, in a spiral -form, like a coarse threaded screw, is thrown into the river. To the -upper end of the log, by an universal joint, is attached a cable, and -the other end, extended in a diagonal direction to a shaft in the mill -on the bank. The log wheel floats in the water parallel with the shore, -about a third of it above the surface; is held in its position by -sticks at each end extending to the bank, and the cable itself prevents -its going down stream. The current of the river turns the wheel, and -the mill clatters merrily on the bank. - -These high banks are not altogether without their use. They furnish -elegant sites for shot towers; and probably half a dozen of them are -thus occupied. - -The greatest natural curiosity on the river, is what is called -the "Towers." High pillars of limestone are seen on both sides of -the stream, and one solid rock rises almost in the middle of the -river, thirty feet high. Some of the most striking curiosities have -particular, if not appropriate names given them; such as "the grand -tower," "the devil's candlestick," "the devil's bake-oven," &c. - -The navigation of the Mississippi in steamboats has its dangers. Snags -and sawyers are scattered along down the river; and it requires great -attention in the pilot, to avoid them. But there are other dangers -beside this. As we came along down, we passed a steamboat that had -burst her boiler; blown the upper part of it to pieces and killed a -number of persons; and further down the Mississippi, the "Boonslick" -run into the "Missouri Belle," sunk her in eighty feet of water, and -drowned a number of passengers. - -As we came down opposite the mouth of the Ohio, we had our courage -put to the test. It was about twilight, and cloudy; but objects could -well be discerned for some distance. We saw a steamboat coming up the -river, and apparently intending to pass us on the left hand. When -within a short distance of us, the boat "took a sheer," stood on the -other tack, to pass us on the right. Our captain sung out, "the boat is -coming right into us; back the engine." Then was a scene of confusion -and dismay on board; "and the boldest held his breath for a time." If -the boats came in contact, one or both would undoubtedly sink; and it -appeared unavoidable. I ran up on the upper deck, and stood beside the -flag staff, to wait the event. It was soon decided. By backing our boat -and putting the steam on the other, we passed without striking at the -distance of a few feet only. This was, indeed, a fortunate escape. - -I thought the pilot of the other boat must have been at fault; but the -captain told me he was not at all. A cross current from the Ohio struck -the bow of his boat, and veered her round in spite of the helm; and -then, the only chance was to go ahead with all the speed he could. - -It now became quite dark, and in attempting to go across into the Ohio -channel, the boat run aground on a sand bar. All the boat hands were -employed till past midnight to get her off, but without success. They -all turned in, to rest and wait till daylight. - -When the captain arose in the morning, he found the boat adrift. On -examination, it appeared the force of the current alone had washed -away the sand bar, and drove the boat across from the Mississippi side -into the Ohio channel. He put the steam on, and we run to the landing -place on the Illinois side, and a short distance up the river. Here we -found half a dozen steamboats, exchanging with each other goods and -passengers. - -The mouth of the Ohio is a general stopping place for all boats running -up and down either river; and would be a fine situation for a town, if -the land were suitable to build upon. Although the shore appeared to be -thirty feet above the then low stage of water, yet in a freshet, the -whole is laid eight or ten feet under water. - -We found here a large tavern house and grocery; both stuck up on -stilts; the latter, standing nearest the bank, had a breakwater, to -keep it from being carried away by the flood and floating timber. We -stopped an hour or more; went to the tavern, and found dissipation in -a flourishing condition. Those acquainted with the place, told us it -was as much as a man's life was worth, to stay there. Rioting, robbing, -gambling and fighting were the general order of things, day after day, -and night after night. For the honor of the human race, I hope this -account is exaggerated. But I must confess, appearances are against it. - -Here, we left our boat, and took passage on board another, bound to -New-Orleans. These Mississippi steamboats are of gigantic size, and -look like a floating castle--I was about to say the ancient ark; and -although it might fall some short of that ancient vessel, in quantity -and quality of lading, yet when its size and great variety of cargo -are taken into consideration, the comparison might not be deemed a bad -one. In one particular, it would be exact. We had aboard a number of -"_creeping things_." - -Our boat was laden with barrels of pork, kegs of lard, hogsheads of -hams, bags of corn, bars of lead, bales of cotton, coops of chickens, -horses, men, women, children, and negro slaves; men of gentlemanly -deportment and of good character; and gamblers, horse-jockeys, and -negro dealers; and women, of good fame, ill fame, and no particular -fame at all. This was, surely, variety enough for one boat. - -The untravelled man might obtain some new ideas of the world, by taking -a trip in a Mississippi steamboat. It seemed like a world in miniature. -Singing, fiddling, dancing, card playing, gambling, and story telling, -were among the pastimes of the passage. Mere pastimes, to relieve the -tedium of the voyage, for those who have no other resources at command, -may not be the subject of censure; but there were some practices on -board this boat, which ought not to be thus lightly passed over. - -One woman, in the garb and mien of a lady, and whose person still -wore the bloom of youth, but whose conduct was far from being -unexceptionable, appeared, sometimes, pensive and sad. She appeared as -though she had seen other and better days; and that her present course -of life was not, even to herself, entirely satisfactory. I had some -curiosity to learn something of her history, and one day in a talkative -mood, she gave me the outlines of it. - -She said, she was the daughter of rich parents in the State of -Delaware. Her father died while she was quite young; leaving her with -an ample fortune, and in the care of an indulgent mother. She had -always been kept at school; learned music, drawing and dancing; read -novels; attended parties, and was caressed and flattered. In short, she -was a giddy girl, and knew nothing of the world. - -At this critical time of life, she was flattered by a young man of -prepossessing appearance, but of worthless character, who offered her -marriage. She knew her mother would, at her tender years, object to the -match; and therefore, at the early age of fifteen, she clandestinely -jumped out of the window of her boarding house in the night, and was -married! - -This was a sore affliction to her mother; and although she herself -was not entirely discarded, her husband was never permitted to enter -the parental mansion. Her husband obtained her fortune, spent it "in -riotous living," and after awhile, left her with two small children, -and fled to Cincinnati. She, in her distress, applied to her mother; -she would receive her, but not her children. She then took her -children, and went after her husband. She found him; but they lived but -a short time together, before he abused her in such a manner, she was -obliged to quit him; and not much caring whither she went, she took -passage on board a boat for St. Louis. At this place she supported -herself and children as long as she could, by selling her trinkets -and superfluous clothing, and then was left destitute. She had never -been accustomed to labor; her hands were as delicate as those of a -child--she "could not work, and to beg she was ashamed." As a last -resort, (could a virtuous woman think so?) she became an inmate of a -house not of the _strictest morals_. - -After staying there awhile, she became acquainted with some of the -hands of the boat, who persuaded her to try her fortune at the city -of New-Orleans. She was now only about twenty! She was miserable, and -expected to be so. Vice carried with it its own punishment. I tried to -induce her to return to her mother; but in vain. Her conduct had been -such, she was ashamed to return. A sad termination this, to the bright -hopes, and fond anticipations of an indulgent mother. So true it is, -that one improvident step in life, often leads to destruction. - -Another female who figured somewhat conspicuously, was one who came on -board at the mouth of the Ohio from the steamboat Nile; and from that -circumstance, was called by the passengers the "Queen of the Nile." -She was from the State of Ohio, possessed a fine person, and in her -days of innocence, must have been handsome and fascinating. She was the -daughter of respectable parents, and commenced life with high hopes -and brilliant expectations; but she had been "disappointed in love." -Abandoned by her "cruel spoiler," she gave herself up to dissipation -and crime. The bloom of her cheeks began to fade, and the sad aspect, -sometimes so conspicuously depicted in her countenance, plainly -indicated a mind ill at ease and a heart painfully sad. She travelled -without object, other than to revel in dissipation and kill time. But -her course of life had made serious inroads upon her health, and it -was apparent enough that her days must be "evil and few." I sometimes -observed her sitting on the guard of the boat for hours all alone, -gazing in sadness at the peaceful forest and cottages as they passed -in rapid review before her, the tears fast flowing from her eyes, and -her face exhibiting such anguish as may not be expressed by words. She -kept on in the boat to New-Orleans, and I afterwards was informed by -a gentleman who was a fellow passenger, that she became mistress to a -Frenchman in that city. How mistaken mankind are! Crime never did cure -the heart ache, or dissipation ever dispel sorrow. - -The steamboats are constructed like a long two story house, having -large windows and green blinds. The hold is to stow away their heavy -freight; on the first deck, is the gentlemen's cabin, and the dining -room, where all the cabin passengers take their meals; in the centre, -is the engine, cook room, &c.--and forward, are the boilers and wood. -On the next deck, is the ladies' cabin aft, and forward is the place -for deck passengers, having berths but no bedding. Over this, is what -is called the "hurricane deck." - -A cabin passage from St. Louis to New-Orleans, is twenty-five dollars; -and a deck passage seven dollars--the passenger finding his own bedding -and meals. Cooking stoves are provided, so that families often lay in -their own provisions and cook their own meals. - -Boats burn a good deal of wood--ours consumed a cord an hour; and it -is no small job to bring the wood aboard from the slippery banks of -the Mississippi. As an inducement to the deck passengers to help wood -the boat, two dollars are deducted to those who agree to wood; so in -that case they only pay five dollars. Thirty or forty of our passengers -agreed to wood, but the mate and clerk had much difficulty to make them -fulfil their engagements. - -It was sometimes really laughable, to see the expedients resorted to, -to get rid of wooding; especially when the boat rounded to, by the side -of a wood-pile in the night. The clerk would sing out, "Wood-pile, -wood-pile, where are the wooders?" But they, like some characters in -high places, were more inclined to "dodge the question," than to walk -up manfully and perform their duty. Some feigned themselves sick; some -hid under the baggage, or beneath the berths; others went on shore and -skulked in the woods, until the wooding was over. So that with all -their coaxing and driving, they would not be able to bring to the work -more than half of the wood hands. - -One fracas was ludicrous, although I could not but regret the result. -It is well known, that the inhabitants of the several western States -are called by certain _nicknames_. Those of Michigan are called -_wolverines_; of Indiana, _hooshers_; of Illinois, _suckers_; of -Ohio, _buckeyes_; of Kentucky, _corn-crackers_; of Missouri, _pukes_, -&c. To call a person by his right nickname, is always taken in -good part, and gives no offence; but nothing is more offensive than -to mis-nickname--that is, were you to call a hoosher a wolverine, -his blood would be up in a moment, and he would immediately show -fight.--Now it so happened that the mate, who was a regular built -buckeye, had a dispute with a wood hand, who was about half drunk, -and refused to wood. The mate stood on the lower deck, and he on -the deck above; and in the course of the wrangle, he had called him -some terrible hard names, which he bore with becoming fortitude and -forbearance. At length, the wood hand called him a "d--d old puke!" -This was too much--unendurable. He fired in a moment--rushed up and -floored him in a twinkling--dragged him down by his collar, thrust him -ashore, and left him in the woods. - -But the steamboat, the steamboat! For noise and confusion, give me the -Mississippi steamboat. They all have powerful high-pressure engines; -the escape pipe is large, and at every breath they make a tremendous -noise. They "talk big," and swiftly dash through the water. It is -indeed a grand display, to see the steamboats pass. In "a voice of -thunder" they come--the wheels lash the water--and the prows cut the -stream--and the waves roll in violent commotion for hundreds of yards -behind them. And then, the noise of the engine, and hurry and bustle of -the passengers within:--an excellent place to cure one of the ennui. - -On board our boat, we had a number of very intelligent and agreeable -gentlemen--Kentuckians, Tennesseans, Mississippians, &c. I wish -these western people would be a little more exact in speaking the -English language. Some inaccuracies I observed; and if this book ever -reaches them, they will not be offended, but obliged to me for these -suggestions. In the first place, they use the word _which_ instead -of _what_. Ask a question, and if they do not understand you, they -reply "_which?_"--Another phrase, "I have _saw_," instead of "I have -_seen_," is often used. Then there is "a right smart chance," applied -to almost every thing; and "tote in the plunder," instead of "bring in -the baggage." But the word _heap_ has too much by far _heaped_ upon -its shoulders. "A _heap_ better," "a _heap_ easier," and "a _heap_ of -ladies," are phrases often heard. I may be a little sensitive, but the -word _heap_ is very disagreeable, and I wish it was expunged from the -English vocabulary. All these expressions are not used by many literary -men in this country, but they are indeed, quite too common. - -They have some peculiarities in the calling of money. A New-England -_ninepence_ is called _a bit_; and the four-pence-half-penny bears -the name of _pickaroon_. In travelling from New-Hampshire to Virginia -some years ago, I was somewhat amused at the different names given -to the same piece of money. My four-pence-half-penny became at -New-York a _sixpence_, at Philadelphia a _fip_, and at Virginia it -became a four-pence-half-penny again. But all these singularities and -inconveniences will soon be done away, and money will universally bear -its legal title, dollars and cents. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - -There is an independent frankness in these western people that I -admire. It is a kind of individuality of character--every one appears -to act out himself, without reference to others. At the north, people -are too apt to follow the multitude, or a particular file leader; -and by them, shape their opinions and actions. In order to tell -whether they will do a particular act, they must look about them, and -ascertain what others will say of it. The politician must conform to -the usages of his party, whatever they may be. He must think as they -think, and act as they act, whether it be agreeable to the dictates -of his own conscience or not. The pious lady must be exactly in the -fashion--conform to certain leaders--be charitable by rule--and kind, -in the most approved mode. If any one has the boldness to take an -independent course, in fashion, politics or religion, he is looked upon -with suspicion, as a dangerous innovator, and must not be tolerated. -The dogs of war are let loose upon him, and he is hunted down for -entertaining an opinion of his own. In this manner, individual -character becomes swallowed up and lost in that of the multitude. - -But in this region, nature is true to herself. The useless and -cumbersome shackles of custom and party are thrown aside with -disdain; and the individual walks forth in his own native freedom and -independence. He does not shape his course by what his neighbors may -say, do or think; but acts according to the dictates of his own heart, -and from his own opinion of right and wrong. He is charitable, kind -and hospitable--not in a grudging, supercilious manner; or in a way -calculated to display himself; but with such an air of open-hearted -welcome, as to make the recipient feel at ease, and doubles the value -of the kindness bestowed. How can man be niggardly and mean, among the -teeming prairies and stately forests of the West, where nature herself, -by showering down her blessings with a bountiful hand, teaches him also -to be liberal! - -And I have often to myself reversed the question and asked, how can -northern people be other than inhospitable and niggardly, living in -such a crabbed climate, and on such a barren soil. They cannot, in -general, afford to be liberal; and were it otherwise, the severe labor -and economy--the continual dealing in small things--the constant rack -of brains, to find some method to turn a penny to advantage--that must -be gone through with, to gain a large estate, seem to drive out of the -head of the possessor all notions of liberality, and tend to steel the -heart against noble acts of kindness. That which costs much, and is -rarely obtained, is highly valued, and not lightly parted with. We are -not well educated in the school of hospitality. We awkwardly perform -its teachings--seldom with gracefulness and a hearty welcome. - -Among our passengers, there were twenty-three negro slaves, men and -women; bought in Kentucky by negro speculators, to be transported to -Natchez, where the market is high, to be sold. One of them was taken -with the cholera, and in twelve hours died. He was put into a rough -box, and when we stopped to wood, buried on shore. This was the only -case we had, and the only one I ever witnessed. It is a dreadful -disease; but has been too often professionally described, for me to -attempt it. - -These negroes are singular beings. Although one of their number had -died; and although they were slaves, and going to be sold to, they -knew not whom, or what hardships they might be made to endure, yet -they were always merry--talking, laughing, singing, dancing, in one -continued round. At every place we stopped, they would run on shore, -and while one sung, clapped his hands, and beat time with his foot, -the others would foot it merrily on the smooth ground. Knowing their -destination, their thoughtless gayety sometimes produced disagreeable -sensations. There are some situations, however, where ignorance and -thoughtlessness are a blessing. They were not confined at all, but -appeared to be kindly treated, and to enjoy every liberty they might, -consistent with their situation. - -The banks of the Mississippi look high enough at low water; probably -thirty feet; presenting a raw edge next the stream, and generally -covered with a dense forest of lofty trees; yet at high water, they are -generally overflowed, except at the high bluffs. The most prominent of -these, are what are called the Iron Banks, Chickasaw Bluffs, Walnut -Hills, and the site of the city of Natchez--all these are on the east -side of the river. I do not remember of seeing a single high bluff on -the west side, below the mouth of the Ohio. There are occasionally -small elevations over which the river does not flow; and villages -erected on them. But every few miles without regard to overflows, log -houses are erected in the wilderness, inhabited by woodcutters; and -their only employment seems to be, to supply the steamboats with wood. -Although wood is cheap, being generally $1,50 a cord, above the mouth -of the Ohio, and from there to Natchez $2,00, yet the demand is so -great, and the forest so near, they make quite a lucrative business of -it. - -The river is very crooked, sometimes going five miles to gain one; has -many islands, and some places, full of snags. There are two or three -snag boats employed on the river, and when they get them chiefly out, -the Missouri, which seems to take upon itself the chief regulation -of the stream, brings down at high water a reinforcement equal to the -first supply; so that to keep the river clear of snags, is like the -labor of Sisyphus, who was doomed to roll a stone up a hill, and the -moment he got it near the top, it would roll down again. - -The introduction of steamboats on the western waters, has -revolutionized the country. They have opened the deep recesses of the -West, to the free access of mankind, and let in the light of day upon -them. The half-horse and half-alligator race are no longer to be found; -but the inhabitants of this part of creation look, and talk, and act, -and live--very much like human beings. The refinements, elegancies and -luxuries of life are not so generally found here, as in the Atlantic -States; but all the necessaries are every where abundant. - -In Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, and all along the river Mississippi, I -found the inhabitants civil and kind; and in no one instance did I ask -for a meal of victuals in vain. It might, sometimes, be a homely one, -and once I recollect, it consisted of meat and bread; but those who -have such a mawkish sensibility that they cannot relish the simple fare -of the forrester, ought never to set a foot on the western world. - -The flat boats are still in use on the river. We passed hundreds of -them; some loaded with live stock, others with corn, cotton, &c. They -have hardly any resemblance of a boat. They are sixty or seventy feet -long, ten wide, having corner posts and a square form like a house, and -a flat roof. The current floats them down the stream to the destined -port, the cargoes and boats are both sold, and the hands take passage -on board the steamboats, home. - -We stopped at all the villages and towns of any size on the river, -to take and leave passengers and freight; but books give such an -accurate description of them, as to render any particular notice -here unnecessary. Memphis is the most pleasant, Vicksburg the most -flourishing, and Natchez the largest--all on the east side of the river. - -There are no large towns on the west side of the river below the mouth -of the Ohio. As prominent as any, perhaps, is New-Madrid, situated -just within the southern border of the State of Missouri. It was -once a much larger village than at present. It is memorable for the -romantic history of its origin under General Morgan, and for the great -earthquakes in 1811 and 1812. Mr. Flint says that these earthquakes -were more severe than any known in our part of the continent. The -shocks were felt more or less throughout the whole western country; -but they were more severe and produced the most disastrous effects in -the region of New-Madrid.--The grave yard of the village, with all -its sleeping tenants was precipitated into the river--the trees were -violently thrown against each other, bent in various directions or -prostrated--the earth burst in many places, and earth, sand and water -were thrown high into the air--thousands of acres were sunk and many -ponds formed--the river became dammed up and flowed backwards--islands -sunk in the stream, and boats as they passed shared the same fate--the -birds of the air became terrified, descended to the earth and flew -into the arms of man to shelter themselves from the commotion of -nature--the whole country for a time became inundated, but as it was -thinly inhabited few lives only were lost. History does not record an -earthquake attended with more terrific circumstances and threatening -a more exterminating war with man and nature, than this. The thriving -country about the village was made desolate, but now it is slowly -regaining its former condition. In this region the country is rich -and beautiful, but the many ponds made by the earthquake render it -unhealthy. New-Madrid is, however, quite a village, transacts much -business and is the most noted landing place for steamboats on the west -side of the river below St. Louis. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - -At Natchez, I left the boat, and stopped a day or two, to make the -necessary preparations to go over land on horseback to Texas. There is -a steamboat that plies regularly between this place and Alexandria on -Red River; and we should rather have travelled by water as far as that -place, and avoided crossing the Mississippi swamp by land; but the boat -had gone, and would not return under a number of days. - -Natchez is an incorporated city, containing about three thousand -inhabitants. That part of it which lies under the bluff near the river, -is muddy, looks old and disagreeable; but the main part of the city -is situated on a high bank, two hundred feet above the river; chiefly -built of brick, quite pleasant, and makes quite a show of business. The -ground back of it, is full of gullies, and is unpleasant. It is an old -town, but has much improved within a few years. - -Many people going to Texas continue on down the river to New-Orleans, -and there take a passage on board a vessel to some port in the -province; but my desire was to see the country, and therefore, I chose -to travel over land. A pleasant and companionable gentleman from the -State of New-York, who came down in the boat with me, agreed to bear me -company. Some acquaintances of his, with their families, were on the -road to Texas, and he like myself wished to see the country. - -Having provided ourselves with horses, portmanteaus, fireworks, &c. and -obtained the necessary directions, we took an early start; crossed the -Mississippi in a ferry boat, for which we were taxed half a dollar -each; and took the road to Alexandria. We had some ill-forbodings -about the great Mississippi swamp; for just as we were about to cross -the river a gentleman, of whom we made some enquires respecting the -route, told us he thought it now impossible to travel through it in -consequence of the rains which had recently fallen. But we were all -equipped to go by land, and this, our only route; and therefore, we -determined, at all events, to push forward. - -There is a road from the mouth of Red River, along its bank to -Alexandria, and this, we were afterwards informed, is the best route; -but it was seventy miles below us; and whoever takes it, must go down -in a boat. - -Our route lay, for the first six miles, up the river near its bank; -and then we turned more to the west. We passed half a dozen cotton -plantations, some quite large, and saw an army of negroes picking it. - -The cotton plant grows about as high as a man's head, has blossoms -about as big as that of a small rose, and resembling in appearance -the hollyhock, but more extensive branches. The pod is about the size -and shape of the outer covering of a walnut; and when ripe, it opens -in quarters, and presents the cotton in full view. A negro takes a -basket or a bag, and swings it at his side, and with his thumb and -finger picks out the cotton, almost as fast as a hen picks up corn. It -grows from the seed, is planted every year in hills like corn, and -cultivated in the same manner. - -A field of cotton in full blossom, makes a fine appearance. After it is -picked, it is laid on a rack to dry; then ginned to take out the seed, -and put up in bales for the market. The rope and bagging used, are the -manufacture of Kentucky; or at least it brings more into market than -all the other States. I was told that one prime hand on good land would -_make_ ten bales of cotton a year, and raise corn enough to support -himself. The average worth of these bales is five hundred dollars. From -enquiries I afterwards made, I believe the plantations generally make -about seven bales to the hand. No wonder negroes are valuable in a -cotton-growing country. - -Our route now lay through a dense forest--and the ground generally so -miry that we could only ride on a walk. Sometimes we came to the thick -canebrakes, about twenty feet high, and overhanging our narrow path. -Sometimes, we found the palmetto, which exactly resembles a large -green, open fan, standing on a stem a foot high, and so thick that we -could hardly ride through them, or see any path at all. Sometimes we -came to a sheet of water a hundred yards wide, in which a horse would -plunge to the saddle skirts, and for a while, become stuck fast; and -again, we would find a cypress swamp, full of cypress knees and mud. -Indeed it is the worst swamp I ever travelled over, before or since; -and sometimes, I thought our horses were stuck too fast ever to move -again. - -These cypress knees are quite a curiosity. They start from the roots of -the tree, grow from two to four feet high, about the size of a man's -arm, but rather larger at the bottom, and are smooth, without leaf or -branch. They look like a parcel of small posts with the bark growing -over the top end; and are so thick, that it is troublesome to ride -among them. The cause or use of this anomaly in nature I cannot divine. - -Eighteen miles from Natchez, we came to two log houses and a small -stream, called the Tensaw. We crossed the ferry, about twice the length -of the boat in width, and paid half a dollar each for ferriage. We had -now twelve miles to go to find a stopping place for the night, and -all the way, through a dense forest of lofty trees; and it was three -o'clock in the afternoon. The first half of the distance was decent -travelling, although we could not ride much of the way faster than a -walk. Then we came to a wet and miry road. - -It began to grow dark in the woods. The trees were quite thick, and -hung full of Spanish moss; and there was no moon in the sky. The wolf, -the wildcat, and the owl, had pitched their tune for the night; and -soon, thick darkness shrouded around our path. The heavens were clear; -yet so dense were the foliage and moss, that it was seldom I could find -a loop hole, through which a star might cast its rays upon us. I never -had been in such a gloomy situation before. We were in a path, to us -untravelled; and by its appearance, seldom travelled by man. We had -shoals of muddy water to cross, and sloughs of mud to wallow through. -And then the night was so dark, and the track so faint, we frequently -lost it, and found it again with difficulty. It was ten o'clock at -night when we arrived on the shore of the lake, and saw a light on the -other side. We raised the ferryman after a while, and he came out and -took us over. - -This lake is about a mile wide, and twelve long, and must have once -been the channel of the Mississippi. The ferriage here was half a -dollar each. On the other side, we found a good house, and a genteel -family within. They soon provided for us an excellent supper, which -was very acceptable after a ride of thirty miles over such an -execrable road. Not being much used to travelling on horseback, I felt -excessively fatigued and retired immediately to bed. My companion and -myself had each of us a good bed, and we slept soundly until after -sunrise. - -The morning was fine, so we walked awhile along the shore of the lake, -before breakfast. It was about the twentieth of November, yet the air -felt as mild as a morning in June. The winter was following hard after -me, yet I had travelled to the southward and westward faster than the -cold weather. The coldest weather I had found on my route, was in the -State of New-York. There is a softness in the atmosphere of the western -States that is very grateful to the feelings, and is not found in our -northern climate. In going westward on the same parallel of latitude, -the air becomes sensibly more mild and bland. The air is very clear, so -here as in Illinois, I could discern objects much further than at the -North. I could see a house so far off, that it would not look larger -than a bee-hive. There had been no frost here, and nature wore her -livery of green. - -This gentleman has a fine cotton plantation of rich alluvial land. His -house is built facing the lake, on an Indian mound, levelled down to -the height of about six feet. We took breakfast with the family in a -large portico on the back side of the house. It was a good breakfast, -on a neat spread table, and the lady at the head performed the honors -of it, with an ease and grace seldom equalled. We performed our parts -to a charm, both in eating the breakfast and complimenting the hostess. - -This family were from the State of Virginia, and had been settled here -in Louisiana seven years.--The gentleman informed me they had generally -enjoyed good health, although they had sometimes been afflicted with -the fever and ague. - -It is refreshing to the weary traveller, when far away from his home, -to find a spot in his path, where he can renew his strength, and repose -in peace. At such a spot he lingers, leaves it with regret, and -treasures it up in his memory. - -I have often thought, that many persons do not travel in a right -spirit. They start on their journey with a full belief that all the -customs and modes of life they find, differing from those they have -been accustomed to, are all wrong, and proper subjects of censure -and dislike. They see nothing in its true light, enjoy nothing, find -fault with everything; and are continually running their heads against -a post. They are always on the rack; and probably punish themselves -as much as they do every one around them. But such a course betrays -a gross ignorance. Who can read the outpourings of madame Trollope's -brain, without being convinced that she had too gross conceptions, -and too strong prejudices, to write the history of any people, whose -manners were different from her own. She saw nothing, only through a -jaundiced eye; and she had too narrow and contracted a mind, ever to -make the important discovery, that the fault might be in herself, and -not in the objects with which she was surrounded. - -Some prefer to be mere scavengers; and when they find anything gross or -impure, delight to exhibit it to the gaze of the world. I have often -thought of the severe reply of Dr. Johnson to a lady, who told him she -liked his dictionary, because he had no indelicate words in it. O, says -the doctor, I did not trouble _my_ head about them, but I see _you_ -have been looking for them. - -Other travellers think, the more fault they find, the more they will -be noticed; and they will be treated with the more deference and -respect. I once happened to ride in the stage with the venerable Chief -Justice Marshall. He was affable and polite, at peace with himself, -and displeased at nothing. In the same stage, as if nature intended -to exhibit two beings, in bold relief, and make the contrast the more -striking, was a testy young man, who found fault with every thing, and -was pleased with nothing. He cursed the driver, the stage and the road; -and the country through which we travelled was too execrable to live -in. At the hotel, where we stopped to dine, he keeps the house in a -continual uproar. The dinner bell rang, and we set down at the table. -For some reason, he did not come in immediately; and when he made his -appearance, the table was entirely full. This was too much for him to -bear. He cursed the waiter for not saving a place for him. The waiter, -as quick as possible, provided him a place at a side table. But he was -determined not to be thrown into the shade in this manner. The Judge -ate his dinner in silence; but this _side table_ gentleman kept a -continual cry for something. "I say, waiter"--bring me this, and bring -me that.--His vociferations became quite annoying. At length, he cried -out with rather increased vehemence, "I say, waiter, bring me a _fresh_ -potatoe." The moment this was uttered, one of the gentleman at our -table said, "Waiter, give that gentleman a _fresh_ chair, I am sure he -has set in that one long enough." This was a damper. It caused quite a -laugh at the young man's expense. He became silent, and after dinner, -we saw no more of him. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - -"Behold us mounted once again,"--and immediately after leaving this -gentleman's plantation, we again passed into a dense forest and found -a muddy path. In about six miles we found some sandy land and pine -timber, and here we left what is called the Mississippi swamp. We soon -came to the outlet of the lake, which we had to ford. The water was -deep, and the shore deep mud. It was a difficult job to make a horse -wallow through. We were told that a horse got swamped and died in the -mud, a few feet from the spot where we crossed. - -We came to the banks of Washita river, followed it down three miles, -and crossed over to Harrisonburg. The town is built on a level plain -on the west bank of the river; but it contains not more than twenty -houses. This river empties into Red River, and is navigable for -steamboats a long distance above the village. It is forty-two miles -west of Natchez. On this river are the lands where the famous Aaron -Burr _talked_ of establishing a colony; but unless the land above -and below is better than in this region, it might not have been very -flourishing. The soil is too sandy and poor. - -We rode twenty-five miles over a rolling sandy country, generally -covered with pine woods; and stopped at night with a gentleman who had -been one of Burr's party. He did not seem inclined to say much of that -ill-fated expedition. Here we were kindly treated, and fared well. He -had been there nineteen years; had cleared a large plantation; raised -cotton, corn and cattle; had eight or ten negroes, and possessed the -necessaries of life in abundance. But he still lived in a log house, -without a glass window in it. I asked him, why he did not have windows. -He said, the house was well enough; if the hole cut for a window did -not make it light enough, he opened the door. It was not just such a -house as I should be contented in, for nineteen years, and possessing -the wealth he had.--It, however, was to his taste; and for aught I -could see, he was as happy as those who live in much better houses. - -To-day we travelled thirty-three miles to Alexandria, just one hundred -miles from Natchez. The first forty was Mississippi swamp, excellent -land, but a good deal of it too low for cultivation; the last sixty -miles was, with few exceptions, hilly, sandy, pitch pine woods. We -passed only a few good plantations. Occasionally, we found a small -prairie of poor soil, and a deserted log house. It was indeed the -most dreary road I ever travelled. In the last day's travel, we passed -two small rivers; one we crossed in a ferry boat; and to our special -wonder, we found quite a decent bridge over the other. - -Red River is rightly named; it is almost as red as blood, caused by -the red soil through which it passes. It is quite a large stream; but -the water is too brackish to drink, or for culinary purposes. The only -resource of the inhabitants of Alexandria is to catch rain water for -which they have enormous large cisterns. We crossed the river opposite -the town in a ferry boat, and found the current about as strong as that -of the Mississippi. It is navigable for steamboats, in a moderate stage -of water, as high up as "the raft," and when the removal of that is -completed, for a long distance into the country. About a mile above the -town, there is a short rapid which boats cannot pass when the water is -low. - -The mouth of Red River has probably undergone some changes. It is -almost certain, that in by-gone years, Red River had its own separate -channel to the Gulf of Mexico; but in process of time, the ever -changing Mississippi river took a long turn that way; struck into its -channel, and after appropriating its waters and three miles of its -bed to its own use, wheeled round to the left, and pursued its own -course to the ocean. In this state of the case, the upper part of Red -River became a tributary of the Mississippi, and the lower part a mere -waste-way to pass off its superfluous waters. But the inconstant -Mississippi, a short time ago, cut out for itself a new, strait channel -across the bend, and left Red River to itself. This cut-off, however, -proved of incalculable advantage to that section of country. It let off -the Mississippi waters so freely, that a large tract of most excellent -land does not now overflow; and this is sought for with avidity, and -settling fast. - -Alexandria is pleasantly situated on a level plain, the south side of -Red River, one hundred and four miles from its mouth, and three hundred -and twenty-nine from New-Orleans. It is regularly laid out in squares; -has a court house, three hotels, eight or ten stores, two or three -groceries, and a number of good dwelling houses. Its chief export is -cotton, and that of the first quality. Red River cotton commands the -highest price in market. I saw a large number of bales piled on the -river bank, and wagon loads coming in. - -Gentlemen and ladies, in pleasure carriages and on horseback, were -riding through the streets; and the hotels were full of guests. It -appears to be a place of business and of pleasure; of much wealth, and -in a rich neighborhood. This place and Natchitoches, seventy-five miles -above it, are the only towns of any size in this section of the country. - -At the upper end of the town, there is a regular laid out race-course, -of a circular form, and a mile in extent. Here, the speed of horses is -frequently put to the test, and extensive bets made on the result. -This seems to be the favorite sport of this country--of more absorbing -interest than any other; and about which the people talk more than on -any other one subject. Good race-horses are of great value, and almost -any price will be given for them. Although the race-course may have -its great attractions--it may exhilarate the feelings, to see that -noble animal, the horse, with mettle high, and lofty bearing, spurn the -dust beneath his feet, and skim along the plain with the swiftness of -the wind; and although it may have a tendency to improve the breed of -horses; yet upon the whole, may it not be said, that it is purchasing -improvement and pleasure, at a great expense of time and money; and, -independent of its moral effect upon society, productive of more evil -than good. - -Gambling is too much the order of the day. A large billiard room faces -the main street in this village, and seems never to lack for customers. -In this room one man killed another by striking him on the head with -the _cue_, and his trial was just finished as I arrived. He was -convicted of manslaughter, and sentenced to ten years confinement in -the State Prison. The result of the trial gave general dissatisfaction -among the people. They thought he ought to have been convicted of -murder and suffered its penalty. - -Not much attention is paid to the cultivation of vegetables or fruit. -The peach and fig-tree were the only fruit trees I saw, and but few of -them.--The fig-tree much resembles our northern quince tree, but grows -some larger in size. The only vegetables we had at table, were turnips -and sweet potatoes. The northern potatoe will not produce a crop unless -new seed is obtained every year. - -All the beds in this region are surrounded with thin curtains, or as -they are termed here, moscheto-bars, to protect the inmate from that -pestiferous, anti-sleeping insect, the moscheto. Of all insects this -world produces, the moscheto is the most troublesome and annoying. To -lie down without a bar, as I sometimes did, and fight the moschetoes -all night long is dreadful. Too tired and sleepy to keep awake, I would -fall into a drowse, only to be aroused in a moment by half a dozen -dabbing into my face, and singing in my ears. They are indeed, too -familiar by half; and the only chance to cut their acquaintance is to -flee. I would not spend my days in the region of moschetoes for the -sake of wealth, for I should only possess splendid misery. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - -About a mile above this place, we left Red River, and travelled the -road on the bank of Bayou Rapide for twenty-five miles, to the mansion -house of a Mr. Henderson, where we stayed over night. In this day's -ride, we passed over as rich land as I ever saw, covered with extensive -cotton plantations. It is all river-bottom land of a red clayey soil; -and all along the road, as we passed, we saw clouds of negroes with -bags and baskets at their sides, picking cotton. The land produces an -abundant and a profitable crop, and the planters appear to have grown -rich. But it seems not exactly to be a paradise, if there be indeed, -any such a place on earth. It is excessively annoyed by moschetoes, -and is very unhealthy. During the warm, sickly summer months, the -planters with their families flee to the pine woods, where the air is -fine and salubrious; and leave their overseers and negroes to battle -with disease and moschetoes, the best way they can. They are very -companionable, hospitable and kind, and their style of living is much -the same as that of the southern planters generally. - -About half way up, we crossed the stream over a bridge to the right -hand side; and just before we arrived at Mr. Henderson's, we crossed -it again. Soon after we crossed it the first time, I happened to cast -my eyes towards the stream, and found it running the other way! We had -certainly been travelling all along up the stream; and now, without any -apparent cause, either in the "lay of the land," or direction of the -channel, it was just as certain its current was with us. I enquired of -our host the meaning of all this. He pleasantly observed, that the -streams in this part of the country, were very accommodating; they -could go almost any way. He, however, explained the phenomenon. He -said, the channel of the stream, by the side of which we had travelled, -was, undoubtedly, once the bed of Red River. Ten miles above him, the -river had taken a straight course to Alexandria, and left its former -circuitous route. The water, which we now saw running, is supplied by -a stream from the lake, enters the old channel on the opposite side -from where we were travelling, then divides itself, one half running -down and entering the river near Alexandria, and the other running up -the old bed, and entering the river ten miles above. When the river -is high, a portion of it flows round in its old bed, and drives the -upper current along with it. So that by this house the stream runs -about half of the year one way, and the other half in the opposite -direction! A rather difficult stream I should think, to build a mill -upon. This is indeed quite a curiosity; but to the explanation one -objection may be urged. If this be in fact the old bed of Red River, -and from examination I am satisfied it is, one might naturally suppose -it would be all along descending _one way_; and, therefore, the stream -which enters it would not divide itself, but the _whole_ of it run in -the _same direction_ that the river formerly did. The answer to this -is, the stream coming in, carried sand with it, and for a considerable -distance somewhat filled up the old channel, so as to make a descent -each way; but not so much as to prevent Red River when high, from -sweeping round, in its former course. - -A curiosity, in some respects similar to this, is found in Arkansas -territory. White river and Arkansas river enter the Mississippi ten -miles apart; and about twenty miles above, there is a direct water -communication between them; which is a large navigable stream; the -water of which runs, sometimes one way and sometimes the other, -according to the comparative height of each river; so that a person -living on its bank, could make no sort of calculation which way the -stream might run, from day to day. - -Mr. Henderson has a large house pleasantly situated on a sandy hill -near the pine woods, and commands an extensive view in front of the -river flatland, and cotton plantations. We here fared well; and as Mr. -Henderson has ample accommodations, his house may be safely recommended -as a stopping place for the traveller. Our route now lay through -the pine woods. Our object was to strike the road from Natchitoches -to Mexico, at the nearest point practicable; and this spot, we were -told, was at the garrison, fort Jessup. This fort is situated half way -between Natchitoches and the Sabine river, the line between the United -States and Texas; being twenty-five miles from each. Natchitoches -being twenty-five miles north of our route, we concluded not to pass -through it; but when Red River is high, travellers to Texas often take -a passage on board a steamboat from Natchez to that place, and from -thence, take the Mexican road. - -From Mr. Henderson's an intelligent gentleman, well acquainted with the -country, travelled with us three or four days on our route; and from -whom we obtained much information. This day, we travelled forty miles -through an unbroken forest of pitch pine. The land is sandy, gently -undulating, but seldom rocky. The trees were of good size, but not so -thick together as to prevent the grass from growing beneath them; or -the traveller from seeing a great distance as he passes along. About -half way, we found a small log house, in which a white man lived with -a black wife. With some people, I suppose this would be commendable; -but I confess it gave me unpleasant feelings to see half a dozen of -_half-bloods_ running about the house. He professed to keep a sort of -tavern, but all the refreshment we obtained was bread and meat. - -At night, we came to the house of a planter, near a small river. He had -a hundred acres cleared of river bottom land, which had been planted -with cotton and corn; a large stock of cattle and hogs, which ranged in -the woods. He had lived here twelve years, was worth twenty thousand -dollars; yet still lived in a log house with only two rooms, and -without a window in it. Our supper was fried beef, fried greens, sweet -potatoes, corn bread and a cup of coffee, without milk or sugar; which -we ate by the light of the fire, as he had neither a candle or a lamp. -Our fellow traveller told us that we had now got out of the region -of what we should call comfortable fare; and we might expect to find -it worse, rather than better, all the way through Texas. Our lodging -was on a comfortable bed made of Spanish moss; and our breakfast -exactly like our supper, which we ate with the doors open to give us -light. Our bill was a dollar each, for supper, breakfast, lodging and -horsekeeping; and this, I found to be the general price, in all country -places throughout Texas. - -After passing the river and about a mile of bottom land, we came to -the pine woods again. I could always tell when we approached a stream, -by the trees being covered with Spanish moss. The first I saw, was on -the Mississippi, about a hundred miles above Natchez; and in all the -region south of that, it is found hanging to the limbs of the trees -near streams of water. It is of a silver-grey color, hanging straight -down from the limbs three or four feet, like a horse's mane. It looks, -perhaps, more like dressed flax than any thing else; and some of -the trees were so completely covered with it that we could scarcely -discover any thing but the moss. It does not strongly attach itself to -the limb I used to pull off handfulls of it, as we passed along, to -examine. It is but the work of a few minutes to gather enough for a -bed. The only preparation necessary is to scald it in hot water, or to -let it remain awhile in cold water, to rot like hemp. It then looks -like fine long hair, and a dark brown color. When dry, it is whipped, -and put into the tick. It makes a very good, cheap bed, and lasts a -long time. Of this material most of the beds in this country are made, -and sometimes a mattress of the kind is found at the north. - -All the river bottom lands at the south, are covered with a dense, -heavy growth of trees, among which are many kinds not found at the -north. The cotton-wood grows very large, somewhat resembling the -whitewood of the western States. The magnolia, celebrated for its -large, splendid blossom, is an evergreen, having a dark, green leaf -an inch and a half wide, and two and a half long, and of the size of -the maple--the peccan, a tree resembling the walnut, and bearing a -round nut an inch long, equal to the hickory-nut--the hackberry, about -the size and much resembling the beach--the holly, a small evergreen, -having a small thick leaf--the chinquopin, a mere shrub, resembling the -chestnut tree, and bearing a similar but smaller nut. We frequently -found the grape vine of large size running high up the trees; and -occasionally, a spot of cane-brake. - -This day's travel was through the pine woods, except at some few places -where we found a small clearing and a log house, near some small -stream. We did not go by fort Jessup. Our companion knew of a nearer -route, and we took it. About the middle of the afternoon, we came out -on the Mexican road, three miles south of the garrison. It appeared -to be a road a good deal travelled by wagons, as well as on horseback; -some places running through swamps and muddy; occasionally, a bridge -over the most miry streams; but generally in a state of Nature. The -land became some better, and we passed more settlements. - -At night we stopped at a log house kept by a widow. She had, living -with her, two sons and one daughter. The house had no windows, and but -one room in it. Near it, was a small kitchen where a negro woman did -the cooking. Our fare was very similar to that of the night before, -except the old lady had a candle on the table at supper. There were -four beds in the room where we all slept--the old lady and her daughter -in one bed--her two sons in another--and we three travellers in the -other two. I hope the delicate nerves of my fair readers may not -greatly be disturbed at this; if they are, they must close the book, -and read no further; for If I must tell "the whole truth," I shall be -obliged to state, that during the thirty following nights, I often -slept in the same room with one or more ladies! - -The old lady had about twenty acres cleared and cultivated with corn; -but the land is not the first rate. The fact is, all along Missouri, -Arkansas and Louisiana, after you get sixty or seventy miles west of -the Mississippi river, you come to light, sandy, hilly land; generally -covered with pitch pine; excepting a narrow strip on the margin of the -streams; so that half of Missouri, three-fourths of Arkansas, and half -of Louisiana, are poor land, hardly fit for cultivation. This is not -what I had supposed; but from my own observations, and the information -of travellers, I believe this to be the fact. - -We took an early start, and travelled on. The northern people have -been accused of being very inquisitive; but I am sure I would turn -out the people here against them on a wager. As a general rule, we -were inquired of, "where from"--"where going," &c. &c. To-day, a man, -twenty rods distant from the road, came running up, and asked us, -where we were from. I thought this was carrying inquisitiveness too -far; and so I took the yankee privilege of answering his question by -asking another, viz:--If it was out of mere curiosity, or for the sake -of obtaining information beneficial to himself, that induced him to -enquire. He said he was from Kentucky himself, and did not know but we -might be from there also; and in that case, he wished to inquire the -news. I told him we were none of us from Kentucky. But this did not -satisfy him; he insisted upon knowing where we were from; and appeared -quite vexed that he could not obtain the information from any of us. - -We passed a number of covered waggons, generally with four horses, -loaded with goods and families bound to Texas. They invariably lodge -out doors over night. They carry their own provisions with them, and -select some spot where there is plenty of wood and water, build up a -fire, cook their meals, turn their horses or oxen loose to feed on -the prairie, or in the woods, and camp down on the grass by the side -of the fire. I saw some who had been thirty and forty and sixty days -on the road; from Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, &c. and said they had -not put up at a house for a single night. Some of them looked quite -"wearied and worn;" and if they do indeed find rest at last, it must be -confessed, that "through great tribulation," they enter the promised -land. - -About noon to-day, we came to the Sabine river, the dividing line -between the United States and Texas. We had now travelled from Natchez -two hundred and twenty-five miles on horseback; and this, the seventh -day since we started. I had now become used to the saddle; and saving -the muddy roads and miry streams which we sometimes found, I enjoyed -the trip very well. I was surprised to find the Sabine so small a -river. I should think it was not more than one third as large as Red -River. It is a deep muddy stream, and gentle current. We were paddled -across the river by a woman, who was a "right smart" one, and landed at -last on the shore of - - TEXAS. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - -I had read and heard so many fine descriptions of Texas--its pleasant -streams, beautiful prairies, mild climate, and extensive herds of -buffalo, wild horses and cattle, that it was with no small degree of -enthusiasm, I set foot, for the first time, on its territory. I cast my -eyes back for a moment on the United States; then turned to the "fairy -land," with high hopes and bright anticipations. - -The Sabine has two or three miles of good bottom land on each side, -heavily timbered; but it is too much subject to inundation to be -cultivated.--After we passed the river bottom, we came to gentle -swells, of red clayey soil, covered with oak, hickory, &c. called oak -openings. Sometimes we passed a small prairie; and occasionally, a -log house and a small field. Thus we passed ten miles; and here, our -fellow traveller, having arrived to the end of his journey, left us. -He had travelled a hundred miles with us; was an intelligent man, well -acquainted with the country, and we became too much interested in him, -not to feel serious regret at parting. This is one of the disagreeable -things in travelling; we form acquaintances only to leave them. - -We now found cotton fields, as well as corn; more extensive -plantations, and better houses. We passed two race-courses by the road -side, and stopped for the night, at a very decent looking double log -house, having a wide portico in front, and a wide avenue through the -centre. Here, we found good accommodations. The house contained three -or four rooms, and had about the same number of glass windows in it. We -had for supper, venison, sweet potatoes, corn bread, coffee, butter and -milk. Back of the house, I observed a small orchard of apple trees, the -only one I found in all Texas. The trees looked thrifty, and had just -begun to bear fruit. In front, near the road, was as fine a spring of -good, clear, soft water, as I ever saw; but it was hardly cold enough -for a northern man. Here were extensive fields of cotton and corn. This -planter had a cotton gin and press. The cotton was sent by land to -Natchitoches; to be transported from thence to New-Orleans by water. - -Six miles from this, we came to an entirely new village, called St. -Augustine, near a stream called the Ayish Bayou. About two years ago, -it was laid out; and now it contains two large taverns, three stores, a -court house, and ten or a dozen dwelling houses. There is a good school -kept here, to which scholars are sent from some distance. It would -be tedious, however, to relate the particulars of this, and the two -succeeding days--it would only be the same story over again. Our fare -was rather poor--the meals, better than the lodging. - -One night, we slept in a new framed house, one side all open to the -weather; and the other, we slept in a log house, the interstices -between the logs not filled up, so that you might thrust your arm out -almost any where. This night we had a smart shower, accompanied by a -strong wind, and the rain beat in so liberally, I was obliged to haul -my bed eight or ten feet to leeward. We passed quite a number of log -houses, small plantations, through oak openings and pine plains, and, -at length, came to the ancient town of Nacogdoches. - -I could not but smile at the odd and grotesque appearance of -Nacogdoches, as I entered the principal street of the town. In by-gone -days, the Spaniards built a town of log houses; generally having the -logs standing perpendicular at the sides and ends, and the space -between them filled with mud; with chimneys made of the same materials. -These look old and woe-begone. In modern times, the Americans have -erected a number of elegant, framed houses, well finished and painted -white; and these are scattered along among these ancient hovels. The -contrast is very striking, and somewhat ludicrous. Before me, stood -an ancient Roman Catholic church, built in true Spanish style, with -perpendicular logs and mud; now falling to decay, and presenting to the -eye a hideous mass of ruins. - -The town stands on a beautiful plain; having a small stream of water -on each side; is very healthy; and when American industry shall have -removed these dark spots from its surface, will be a most desirable -place in which to reside. It has two public houses; and the one we -put up at, had very respectable accommodations. There are a number -of stores, which carry on a brisk trade with the country people and -Indians. The chief article the Indians have to sell is deer pelts; and -in the course of the year, they bring in a large number. These are done -up in bales, and sent by land to the United States.--These skins are -bought of the Indians by weight, and, I was told, the average amount -was about fifty cents apiece. I observed a number of Indians in town -on horseback; and this is the general mode of travelling for all the -western and southern Indians. - -Nacogdoches is the head quarters of the "GALVESTON BAY AND TEXAS LAND -COMPANY." The lands of this Company embrace three grants; that of -Xavala, Burnet and Vehlein, and are bounded on the northeast by the -Sabine River; on the northwest by a small river called the St. Jacinta; -on the south by the gulf of Mexico--about one hundred and seventy -miles in width, and running northwest nearly three hundred; equal to -fifty-one thousand square miles. I shall now continue my journal, and -give hereafter a description of this Company's lands in my general view -of Texas. - -While at this place, I frequently saw Maj. NIXON, the agent of the -Company for giving titles to the grants. He is quite an agreeable -and intelligent man, and very readily gave me all the information -respecting the country that I requested. No more than a league of land -is granted to foreigners; but to the Spaniards, a number of leagues are -frequently given. The Spaniards, however, place but little value upon -land. They sometimes have large flocks of cattle and horses; but are -too indolent to cultivate the soil. Quite a number of them reside at -Nacogdoches; some very respectable families; but a good many are poor -and indolent. They are of a darker complexion than the Americans, and -are readily designated at first sight. - -An instance of the little value placed upon land was stated to me while -here. An American had a fine looking dog that a Spaniard took a fancy -to; he asked the price and was told a _hundred dollars_. The Spaniard -replied, he had no money, but would give him a scrip for _four leagues -of land_! The bargain was immediately closed; and the land could now -be sold for $10,000. Truly, the old adage, "_dog cheap_," ought to be -reversed. - -Immediately after leaving the town, we came into pine woods again; to -all appearance, the same we had already passed over--rolling, sandy -soil; the trees straight and tall, but standing so far apart, that a -carriage might go almost anywhere among them. The grass grew beneath -them, and we could see a great distance as we passed along. And thus -it continued, for about twenty miles, with hardly a house on the way. -I thought, we never should have done with pine woods. We had travelled -about three hundred miles from Natchez; and two-thirds of the way had -been pine woods; and here, they made their appearance again. To ride -a short distance in them, is not unpleasant; but to continue on, day -after day, is too monotonous--there is no change of scenery. - -In twenty miles, we came to an elegant house, painted white, a large -portico in front; a neat paling round the yard, and large fields beside -the road. A saw and grist mill were building on a small stream, about -a mile from the house. We passed a small river over a bridge, having -split rails for a covering, instead of plank, and through pine woods, -oak woods and small prairies, and put up at a house near the bank of -the river Neches, forty miles from Nacogdoches. - -By the side of the road near his house, I saw a race-course, and the -gentleman told me there were frequent races on it. He had himself won -twelve hundred dollars on a bet, a short time before. His house was -made of hewn logs and clapboarded, having three rooms in it, but as -usual in this country, no windows. We had our common fare, beef, corn -bread and coffee. - -On a large prairie in front of his house, I saw two Indian mounds, and -as I had a little leisure before breakfast, I went out to examine -them. I had seen many of the Indian mounds in the western States and -Louisiana; and these were similar to them. The largest one was about -twenty feet high and ten in diameter. I was puzzled to find where the -dirt was taken from to make them, as the ground was a perfect level a -long distance around; but my host showed me the spot about half a mile -distant, and from the size of the excavation, I thought he was right. -No reason can be given, however, why the dirt was carried to such a -distance. - -Throughout the western and southern country, are found mounds of -earth of different sizes, shapes and heights--some, of a conical -form; others, of an oblong shape; and occasionally, much resembling -fortifications. They are first seen along the southern shore of Lake -Erie; they increase in number and size in Ohio, Indiana and Illinois; -are scattered over the Mississippi Valley; and are often found on the -plains of Texas, and along the Gulf of Mexico. They are generally found -on level prairies, or on rich and level woodland, and near lakes, -ponds, or streams of navigable water. A very interesting essay might be -written upon these Indian Mounds; but I shall notice only some of the -most remarkable. - -The largest mound in the state of Ohio, is on the level bottom land -of Grave Creek, near its entrance into the Ohio river, and fourteen -miles below Wheeling. It is 350 feet in diameter at the base, sixty -feet across at the top, and seventy-five feet in height. The area at -the top is slightly concave, and from its centre, arises a stately -oak, in a straight shaft, like a flag-staff. One of these mounds has -been entirely demolished, and upon its site, is built the town of -Chillicothe. The town of Circleville is principally laid out within the -limits of two contiguous mounds--the one of a circular form; the other, -of an oblong square. The circular mound is much the largest, and from -which, the name of the town is derived. - -In the state of Missouri, a little north of St. Louis, are gigantic -and interesting mounds. These enormous stacks of earth lift their tall -heads high in the air, and show to advantage on approaching St. Louis -from the upper country. - -But the most numerous group of Indian mounds, is found in the state -of Illinois. They are situated on the American Bottom, and are said -to exceed two hundred in number. The largest and most remarkable of -these, stands near the bank of Cahokia creek. It is in the shape of -an oblong square, is eight hundred yards in circumference, and ninety -feet in height. On its south side, is an extensive and beautiful -terrace, which was formerly cultivated by the monks of La Trappe as a -garden. These monks had a monastery near the base of this mound; and -probably the earth could not afford a spot more in keeping with the -doctrines they professed. Near them, a stately monument of by-gone -ages, reared its tall head far above their rude dwelling--around them, -a solitary prairie, bounded in the distance, either by stately trees -of the forest, or perpendicular cliffs of solid limestone. No human -habitations were within the bounds of vision; and it was indeed a -spot, sufficiently lonely and retired for those who chose to abstract -themselves from the busy scenes of active life, enjoy undisturbed the -solitude of the wilderness, and hold communion only with the God of -Nature. - -It has often been asked, who built these mounds, and for what purpose -were they erected? These are questions of difficult solution, and, -perhaps, at this late stage of the world, of useless discussion. Some -have supposed them to be places of interment; others believe them -to be sentry stations, upon which guards were placed to watch the -movements of the enemy. Although decayed bones have been found in some -of them, yet it is not probable that they were all erected simply as -monuments for the dead. Who built them? Their origin and use may never -be certainly known; but I am fully persuaded, the ancestors of the -present race of Indians did _not_ erect them. The Indians, now upon the -stage, know nothing about them--make no use of them--and build none -like them. Now, if their ancestors built these stately mounds all over -the country, it is utterly impossible to believe that all tradition -would have been lost of such prominent monuments, that passed in review -before the eyes of their nation, from day to day, and year to year. -In addition to this, many of these mounds are of gigantic dimensions, -and show much more labor in their erection, than the present race of -Indians have ever been known to perform. The earth, of which they are -composed, is generally brought from a distance, and some of them must -have taken a thousand men a number of months to complete them. - -We found the Neches to be quite a river; clayey banks and muddy water. -We saw a boat on the other side; and a house half a mile distant, -through the woods. We could not tell whether it was fordable or not; -but after calling a few times for the ferryman, my companion concluded -to plunge in. I thought in that case, discretion was the better part of -valor; so I waited to see what became of him, before starting myself. -He had a good horse, and although the stream was deep, and quite a -current, he came safely out on the other bank; sustaining no other -damage than being decently wet. He was good enough, however, to loose -the boat, come over and take me across; remarking that there was no -great pleasure in fording streams like that. We now passed through -ten miles of pine woods; then prairies of a mile or so in extent, and -post-oak openings. - -This was the thirtieth day of November. The day was warm and mild, -although somewhat cloudy. As we were passing through the woods, it -became quite dark. On casting my eyes on the sun, I found it was under -an eclipse. It was here almost total. I thought it hardly lacked a -digit of being entirely covered. - -We stopped at night at a small log house on the side of an extensive -prairie. We found only a young woman at home. She said, she was from -the east part of Texas, had been married only a week, and moved there a -few days previous. Her husband soon returned. He had been to spend the -day, it appeared, at a neighbor's, seven miles distant, and left the -new made bride at home alone. All we obtained here to eat, was meat and -corn bread, and water to drink; and that not very good. He had sixty or -seventy head of cattle, twenty cows; but no milk, butter, or cheese. -He had quite a large field under cultivation, in which he raised corn -only. He had a hired man to help him take care of the flocks and the -field, and to accompany him in his hunting excursions. A number of -skins were stretched out on the sides of his buildings, as the trophies -of his prowess and success; among which, I noticed the skin of a large -panther. In the morning, his wife went a quarter of a mile for water, -picked up wood and built a fire; and the two men looked on and did -nothing. What young lady would not marry, if she could pass such a -honey-moon as this! - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - -The next day, we passed three houses, a number of prairies and post-oak -openings; but found no more pine woods. Immediately on this side of -the Trinity, we passed over a low, wet prairie, four miles in extent; -where a horse would sink in to the fetlock joint; and then, half a -mile of heavy timber. The Trinity is a large stream; but not quite as -large as Red River--deep, navigable, and muddy water. We stopped at the -house of an intelligent farmer on the other bank of the river. Here, -our accommodations were very good. He had a house of hewn logs, three -rooms, no windows, a portico in front and rear, and an avenue through -the middle. The front yard was fenced in; and a kitchen and smoke house -were in the back yard. He had a large field cultivated with corn, and -perhaps, half a dozen negroes. - -I here found a young man who deserved commiseration. He was from -Missouri. With his young wife and two small children, the youngest not -quite a year old, he started in a wagon for Texas. He had been two -months on the road; encamped out in the woods every night, although -they had some wet and chilly weather. The fatigues of such a long -journey, and the many attentions such small children required at the -hands of the wife while on the route, were more than her constitution -could endure. She became worn down almost to a skeleton; and grew daily -more enfeebled; but as they were approaching the end of the journey, -she kept up a good heart, and exerted herself to the utmost. But "tired -nature" could do no more. She sickened and died--and left her husband -in a distant land, with two infant children. Those who have endured the -agony of a parting scene like this, although surrounded by relatives -and friends, may form some estimate of the measure of pity due to him! - -There are many hardships, perplexities and sufferings, necessarily -attendant upon a removal to a new and distant country; and any accident -or misfortune is more severely felt, because a person has no chance of -remedying the evil. I do think, a single family ought not to go to a -new country alone; but a number in company; and then they can assist -each other in all their hardships and trials. - -At the mouth of Red River, a gentleman, moving on to Texas with his -family, lost his pocket-book, containing about four hundred dollars. -He carried it in the breast pocket of his coat; and in unlading some -of his goods from the steamboat, he stepped forward to assist, pulled -off his coat, threw it across the railing, and the pocket-book dropped -out into the water and sunk. It would have swam on the water, had it -not contained three or four dollars in specie. Search was made for it; -but the stream was so deep and muddy, they were foiled in all their -attempts to find it. This was, at such a time and in his situation, a -severe misfortune. On the road, two thousand miles from the place he -started from, and five hundred more to travel; his family with him, -and all his money gone. A family of his acquaintance happened to be -in company with him, and through their assistance, he was enabled to -proceed. - -Another case was stated to me, more aggravating than this, because it -was not the effect of accident but of knavery. A gentleman, moving from -Michigan to Texas, brought down in the boat a valuable horse worth -three hundred dollars. On board, he became acquainted with a young -man, who wished employment, and he hired him. When they arrived at the -mouth of Red River, he concluded to send his horse by the young man -across the country by land, and he and his family would go round by -water. He, accordingly, equipped the horse with a new, elegant saddle, -bridle, martingale and saddle bags; and supplied the young man with a -good greatcoat, and twenty dollars in money, and started him off. And -that was the last time he saw man, horse or equippage! He incidentally -heard, that a man answering his description, gambled away a horse and -equippage at Alexandria. - -For ten miles after leaving Trinity river, we passed over some most -beautiful rolling prairies. Although it was December, yet the air was -mild and serene, and the grass as green as in June. These prairies much -resemble those of Illinois; and on some of them, we saw large herds of -cattle feeding. We passed some miry swamps and deep muddy streams. The -most disagreeable part of the whole trip, was the fording of streams. -The banks were generally steep down into the water; and so slippery, we -had sometimes to dismount, hold on to a tree, and let the horse slide -down; then pull the horse beside us, mount him in the water, and ride -across. I would sometimes take my saddle bags off, send my horse over -by himself, and find a tree or a log on which to pass myself. The water -was very muddy, so that we could not see the bottom, or form hardly -any idea how deep it might be, until we forded. One stream was a very -bad one. There were logs in the bottom, embedded in the mud about the -middle of the river; and when our horses passed them, they struck into -a channel where the water was about two feet deeper; their heads were -suddenly plunged under water, and we came very near being thrown into -the stream. Among the trees in the swamps, I noticed the red cedar, -to-day, for the first time. It grows to quite a large tree, and is very -good timber for building, boards, posts, &c. - -To-day, we found by the side of the path a number of petrified limbs -of trees; and in one place, there was a log about a foot in diameter, -turned into stone. We broke off some pieces which plainly showed the -grains of wood; and on one side the bark remained and was petrified -also. It might probably be manufactured into good hones, although it -was coarser grained, and of a lighter shade, than those usually found -at our stores. - -We passed only two houses this day, and put up for the night at a -miserable log house occupied by a widow woman. She had a large stock of -fine looking cattle, but no milk. Our fare was not of the best kind, -although the old lady tried to accommodate us as well as she could. - -There are few mills of any kind in the whole country. The corn is -ground in a steel mill, like a coffee mill, although much larger, and -having a crank on each side. This is commonly nailed to a tree before -the door. The corn is often left standing in the field, and gathered -only as fast as they wish to use it. It used to amuse me, when we rode -up to a house at night, and called for a meal, to hear the woman sing -out to a boy, "Run to the field and bring two or three ears of corn--I -want to make some bread for the gentlemen's supper." So we had to wait -until the corn was gathered, ground, kneaded and baked, before we could -have bread to eat. I suppose this is the true method of "living from -hand to mouth." - -We took an early start next morning, and after passing swamps, streams -and woods, came out into a fine prairie country. Our path led over the -top of one, somewhat elevated above the general level of the country, -and from which we could see many miles all around. It was a prospect -too grand and imposing to be adequately described. - -As we passed along by the side of an extensive prairie, we saw two -Indians horseback, on an elevated spot, about half a mile distant, with -guns in their hands, and looking at the country beyond them. On seeing -us, they wheeled their horses and came at full speed down upon us. We -were a little startled at first; but they halted within a few rods -of us, stared a moment, and then civilly passed the time of day, and -enquired in broken English, the distance to a house on the road we had -come. I never was an enthusiastic admirer of the Indian character. They -may have done some noble deeds of daring, and performed some generous -acts of disinterested friendship; but they possess and practice the -art of deception so well, that no one can know, with any degree of -certainty, when these acts may occur. When I see Indians approaching, -I hardly know whether it is for good or for evil; and therefore, never -feel entirely at ease in their society. - -The Romans, in the days of their prosperity, prided themselves in -being called a _Roman citizen_; and this was generally, a sufficient -protection from depredation and insult, when travelling among the -more barbarous nations around them. Like the Romans, I felt not a -little pleasure in the thought, that I was an _American citizen_, and -that this was a protection from outrage and insult in the presence of -the savage Indian. Since my return, I have seen an account of twenty -Polanders, while on their way from New-Orleans to Mexico, who were -attacked by the Indians in Texas, and all killed except one, who was -fortunate enough to escape and tell the story. Had not the Indians -readily discovered by our personal appearance, that we were _American_ -citizens, we might have shared the same fate. - -We passed a muddy swamp, in many places the water standing in the road -a foot or two in depth; densely covered with timber, and four miles in -extent. As we emerged from this, we came upon the bank of the Brazos -river, at Hall's ferry. This is a stream of the size and complexion of -Red River. In crossing in a boat, we found a strong current. On the -other side there is a high bank on which a town has been laid out; but -now contains only three dwelling houses and one store. Here we stayed -over night. Late in the afternoon, a Spanish trader arrived and put up -for the night. He had two men, five mules and one horse and wagon with -him. His goods were bought at Natchitoches, and he was transporting -them to St. Antonio in the interior of Texas. They were made up into -convenient bundles, hung across the mules' backs and stowed in the -wagon. They were all armed with guns; and the trader himself had a -pistol at each side. He could not well talk English and we conversed -but little with him. He had a strong dislike to the Indians, and was -afraid of being robbed by them. Of this ill-will, the Indians have -their full share. In hunting parties composed of both Americans and -Spaniards, when attacked by the Indians in their excursions along the -Rocky Mountains, they have been known to spare the Americans, when they -have killed all the Spaniards. - -The next day's ride was through a most beautiful open prairie country. -We crossed some small streams, skirted with timber and small groves -on the highland; but generally, we found high, rolling prairie. The -live-oak made its appearance to-day. This is an evergreen and a -beautiful tree. We saw them growing in an open prairie, sometimes, -one standing by itself, about the size, and at a distance, of the -appearance of the northern apple tree. - -On a fine high prairie, we observed quite a number of elegant houses, -a store, a tavern, &c. and some fine farms. This is called Cole's -Settlement; and from the beautiful scenery around, and the respectable -appearance of the inhabitants, I inferred that it is a desirable -neighborhood. - -We stopped for the night at a house half way between the Brazos and -Colorado rivers; being thirty-five miles from each. A few years ago, a -town was lotted out in this place, but still it shows only one decent -farm house. Here is a gristmill turned by horses, and does a good deal -of business; and profitable too, for the rule is to take one sixth part -for toll. In the neighborhood, I saw a very good looking house, built -of limestone. - -From this place to the Colorado river, we passed only two houses; a -distance of thirty-five miles; and the complexion of the country was -similar in all respects to that of the day before. At a very decent -farm house on an extensive prairie, by the side of the river, we put up -for the night; and remained here and in the neighborhood, a number of -the succeeding days. - -And now from this central position, I propose to take a more general -view of the country. I stayed more than a month in Texas, traversed -the country in various directions, conversed with the inhabitants, and -gained what information I could within that time. I feel therefore, -somewhat qualified to speak of the country. And this I shall do -fearlessly; yet I hope, in sincerity and in truth. I am aware that many -articles have been written concerning this country, of various import -and meaning; but I shall speak for myself only, without reference to -others. I do not propose to write its geography or history. Had I the -means and ability accurately to do this, the limits of this work would -not allow of it. I only propose to give the information I obtained from -inspection, examination and enquiry, in a concise form and tangible -shape. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - -GENERAL VIEW OF TEXAS. - - -From whatever point you approach Texas, its aspect is unfavorable. If -it be by sea, you are met by a low, sandy beach and a marshy, flat -country, as far as the eye can reach. If by land, through Louisiana -and Red River, its first appearance is that of a poor country of hilly -land, chiefly covered with wood, and presenting to the eye a weak -soil, alternately of sand and of clay. But when you pass the border -towards the interior, the scene becomes entirely changed. You behold -a beautiful country of rich soil, rounded by the hand of nature into -the most fanciful forms, covered with eternal verdure, and begirt -with forests of stately trees. Earth may not afford a more beautiful -prospect than is obtained from the summit of an elevated prairie. On -such a spot I have stood, and gazed with admiration. The scene extends -all around as far as the eye can reach, and presents the varied aspect -of wood land and lawn, like sunshine and shade. Its appearance is so -much that of a country nicely cultivated by the hand of man, that one -can hardly believe himself to be in an uninhabited region; but he looks -in vain, to catch a glimpse of the husbandman's cottage, and his herds -of cattle feeding on the green fields. The din of human industry and -civilized life strikes not his ear, and the unwelcome truth is forced -upon him at last, that he is only in the solitude of the wilderness; -and the scene before him, with all its beauties, is left "to waste its -sweetness on the desert air!" - -The scenes of Texas have so much of fascination about them, that one is -disinclined to come down to the details of a common-place description -of the country. But the whole truth must be told. The public have a -right, and in fairness ought to know, the true state of the case. -The emigrant cannot live on air, or by admiring the beauties of the -country. It is of importance to him to know, what facilities the -country offers, for obtaining the necessaries and conveniences of life; -and what the prospect may be of enjoying them, when obtained. - -[Illustration] - -In the first place, I shall strike off from the list of the resources -of the country, "the immense herds of buffalo and wild horses." They -are often paraded in the many published descriptions of Texas, as a -most prominent feature in the bright picture exhibited; and as one of -the many inducements to the emigrants to remove thither. But they are -no sort of benefit to the settler at all. They generally keep ahead of -population, some small herds only are ever seen near the settlements; -and there is not inducement enough for the husbandman to leave his -farm, and go far into the interior, to catch the wild horse and kill -the buffalo, among tribes of hostile Indians; as the prospect of gain -would not equal the hardship, risk and expense. The wild horse is an -animal hard to catch; and when caught, it is difficult and troublesome -to tame him, and render him gentle and kind in harness and under -the saddle. It would be as well for the farmer if the fact of their -existence were not known; as it is easier to raise the animal in this -country of evergreen pasture, than to catch and tame the wild one. -There is one point of view, in which a knowledge of the existence of -these animals may be of some importance to the emigrant; it is proof -positive of the natural luxuriance of the soil, and of the mildness of -the climate. - -The wild horses are called by the Spaniards, _mustangs_. I saw some -small herds of them prancing at random over the plains. They are -quite wild, you can seldom approach very near them. They are of -various colors and of rather smaller size than the American horse. The -Spaniards are fond of good horses, and are good horsemen. Some of them -make a business of catching and breaking the mustangs. This is done by -building a fence in the shape of a harrow, with a strong pen at the -small end, and driving them into it; or mounting a fleet horse, get -as near as they can unperceived, then start after them at full speed, -throw a rope with a slip-noose at one end, and the other fastened to -the saddle, around the neck, haul out at right angles with their -course, and choke them down. When caught, they put the bridle on, take -them into a large, soft prairie, mount them at once, flog them with -the greenhide, and let them plunge and rear until they become fatigued -and subdued. After undergoing a few more operations of this kind, they -are deemed "fit for use." They are sold at various prices, from six -to twelve dollars; but unless they are caught when young, they never -become gentle as other horses. - -Texas appears like the State of Illinois. To the southward and westward -of Trinity river, it is generally an open prairie country. All the -streams have more or less bottom land, covered with a dense forest of -timber; and occasionally, a grove of post oak openings will be found -on the moist high land. The soil in these bottoms is very rich, but -some of them are too wet, or too subject to be overflowed to admit of -cultivation. - -A strip of land, bordering on the bays and sea coast, and sixty or -seventy miles in width, is flat, generally approaching to a dead level, -in the spring and fall very wet, and sometimes impassable. Beyond -this, comes the high, dry, rolling country, having no swamps except -immediately on the borders of the rivers. "The Galveston Bay and Texas -Land Company" have a good deal of good land, in pleasant and healthy -situations; and much of it, not yet settled; but they have also a good -deal of poor land. In their grant, are large tracts of pine woods -and post-oak plains; among which, are found some spots of good land, -but generally, it is of a weak and sandy soil. The pine woods are not -without their use. Their resinous qualities give a salubrity to the -air about them, and thereby render a situation in their neighborhood -healthy; and the trees themselves furnish an inexhaustible supply of -the first rate of timber. On the Sabine and Galveston Bays, there -are large prairies of good land, but low and flat; in the region of -Nacogdoches, are small prairies, large tracts of wood, good soil of -red clay, black marle, sandy land, and all the varieties of soil -imaginable. Higher up in the country, there are alternately prairies -and woodland, and an excellent soil. This Company's grant lies -contiguous to the United States, and except on the bay, is as healthy -as any part of the country; but it cannot be called the most pleasant -and beautiful portion of Texas. - -The prairies are all burnt over twice a year--in midsummer, and about -the first of winter. Immediately after the burning, the grass springs -up again; so that there is an abundant supply all the year round. No -country in the world can be compared to this, in the ease and facility -of raising stock. All the herdsman has to do, is to look after them, -so they may not stray away, and some portion of the year, yard them to -prevent their growing wild. The prairie grass is of a peculiar species, -unlike any thing we have at the north; but it is of so nutricious a -quality, that it keeps the cattle fat, all the year round. They grow -large and handsome. I never saw better looking herds in my life. The -horse does equally as well on grass, but if worked hard, requires -some grain. Hogs keep in good flesh all the year; and in autumn, when -the nuts fall from the trees, grow fat. Horses, cattle and hogs can, -therefore, be kept in this country without any more trouble than merely -looking after them to prevent their straying away. - -And then, there is plenty of game. First in the list, is the deer. I -hardly supposed there were as many deer on the continent, as I saw in -Texas.--They were continually crossing my path, or were seen in flocks -feeding on the prairies. I recollect that from an elevated spot, I -counted five flocks of deer in sight at the same time! In some parts -of the country, a man may about as certainly kill a deer if he choose, -as a northern farmer can kill a sheep from his flock. Their meat is -excellent, and their skins valuable. - -Deer-hunting is not very systematically practiced here, as it is in -some parts of the world. Indeed, they are so plenty, that it does not -require much method, or concert of action among a number of individuals -to kill them. The deer is a gregarious animal. You never find one -alone, unless it be accidentally strayed away from the flock. Sometimes -a number of hunters resort to a favorite haunt of the deer, and -while a part arouse them with the dogs in their retreat, and cause -them to flee, others will remain in ambush, near their usual crossing -places at the streams and swamps, and shoot them as they pass. In the -night they are decoyed by fire and killed. A hunter fixes a blazing -torch in his hat, or has another person to carry one just before him; -the deer will stand gazing at the light while he approaches, and by -the brilliancy of their eyes and space between them, calculates his -distance and takes his deadly aim. He must take especial care, however, -that the shadow of a tree or of any thing else does not fall upon the -deer; for in that event, he starts and is off in a moment. - -[Illustration] - -Then there are the bear, Mexican hog, wild geese, rabbits, and a great -variety of ducks. The prairie hen is not so plenty here as in Illinois. -An emigrant, may, therefore, easily supply himself with meat. All he -has to do is "to kill and eat." - -Let us now glance at the soil, and see what that will produce. This -subject I attended to, somewhat critically. It will produce cotton, -sugar cane, Indian corn, rye, barley, oats, rice, buckwheat, peas, -beans, sweet potatoes and all common garden vegetables. The cabbage -does not form a compact head as it does at the north. Wheat will _not_ -grow in this country. The stalk will run up rank, but the ear will not -fill with plump kernels. Last December, while I was there, flour sold -on the river Brazos, for ten dollars a barrel; and in the interior, -it sold for fourteen. Corn grows well, and is quite a sure crop when -planted early--about the first of February. I saw a very good crop -which had been planted in June. - -I found one man, who, with the aid of a boy ten years old, raised and -gathered fifteen hundred bushels of corn. Perhaps I am severely taxing -the credulity of my readers; but if there be any reliance on human -testimony, the fact is as I have stated. And when it is considered that -the ground is only ploughed, a small portion, if any, hoed at all, -and then it gets ripe early, and he can gather it at his leisure--the -statement may not appear at all incredible. Tobacco will grow, but it -has too thin a leaf to be valuable. - -But it is emphatically a cotton country. It produces a larger quantity -to the acre, and of a better quality than any portion of the United -States--not excepting the bottom lands on Red River. This is my belief -from an examination of the growing crop and gathered cotton. And I -found this to be an admitted fact by the most experienced cotton -growers. - -The following is as perfect a list of the forest trees, shrubs, vines, -&c., as I can make--to wit:--Red, black, white, willow, post and live -oaks; pine, cedar, cotton-wood, mulberry, hickory, ash, elm, cypress, -box-wood, elder, dog-wood, walnut, pecan, moscheto--a species of -locust, holly, haws, hackberry, magnolia, chincopin, wild peach, suple -jack, cane-brake, palmetto, various kinds of grape vines, creeper, -rushes, Spanish-moss, prairie grass, and a great variety of flowers. -The live oak, magnolia, holly, pine and cedar are evergreens. - -The Spanish-moss, so profusely hanging on all the trees near streams -of water, gives them an antique and venerable appearance. It is of a -silver grey color; and, if trees may be compared with men, they appear -like the long grey bearded sages of the antedeluvian world. When the -tree dies, the moss soon withers, and becomes dry. I used to amuse -myself by setting fire to the dry moss in the night. It burnt like -tinder, and would sometimes throw a grand column of flame a hundred and -fifty feet into the air, and brilliantly illuminate the scene, a great -distance around. - -Of fruit trees, I saw only the peach, the fig and the orange trees; -excepting one small cluster of apple trees. I think it is too warm -throughout the year for the apple tree to produce much fruit; but the -others will become abundant. - -As to the health of the country, the fact seems to be, that in all the -low country, and on the streams of water, the inhabitants are more or -less afflicted with the fever and ague. It much resembles Illinois in -this particular, as well as in many others. In other situations, I -believe it is as healthy as any portion of the United States. - -The climate is fine; the air, generally clear and salubrious. It is -neither so hot in the summer, or so cold in the winter, as it is -in New-England. The country lies between the Gulf of Mexico and the -snow-capped Cordillera mountains, so that it is fanned by a refreshing -breeze, which ever way the wind may blow. Sometimes, in winter, -the northwest wind sweeps over the plain, strong and keen; and the -thin-clad southerner sensibly feels its effects upon his system; and -I was informed, instances had been known of their being chilled to -death, when obliged to encamp out in the open air without a fire. It is -sometimes cold enough to make thin ice; but, generally, it is mild and -pleasant all winter. The hottest days of summer, are not as warm and -oppressive, as we find them at the North. Individuals originally from -Maine and New-Hampshire, said they had found no night so warm, that it -was disagreeable to sleep under a woollen blanket. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - - -The rivers are navigable to some extent, whether great or small. The -following are the names of the principal, to wit:--Sabine, Ayish -Bayou, Atoyac, Angelina, Neches, Trinity, St. Jacinta, Buffalo Bayou, -Navasota, Brazos, Bernard, Canebrake, Colorado, Navedad, La Baca, -Guadalupe, San Antonio, Aransaso, Neuces and Rio Grande or Rio del -Norte. The streams are all muddy and unpleasant, until you reach the -Colorado; this, and those to the south are, generally, clear and -beautiful. About ten miles from the mouth of the Colorado, a raft two -miles in extent, obstructs the navigation; when that is removed, boats -may go some distance into the country. The Brazos is navigable at high -water, to the falls, about two hundred and fifty miles from its mouth. -A steamboat is now running upon it, as high up as St. Felipe, over a -hundred miles. - -The Sabine, Neches and Trinity are respectively three hundred and -fifty, three hundred, and four hundred and ten miles in length, and are -navigable some distance into the country for a considerable portion of -the year. The San Bernard is navigable sixty miles. It has about four -feet of water on the bar at its mouth. The Colorado rises in the high -prairies near the mountains, pursues quite a direct course six hundred -miles and falls into Metagorda Bay. Above the raft, which is situated -ten or twelve miles above its mouth, it is navigable three hundred -miles. It has as strong a current as that of the Mississippi. - -But the Rio del Norte is much the largest and longest river in this -region. It rises high up among the mountains, and is estimated to be -seventeen hundred miles in length. For two thirds of its course it -runs nearly south; it then changes to the southeast, and empties into -the Gulf of Mexico, near the southern boundary of Texas. It has been -ascended by a steamboat two hundred miles to Loredo; and it is stated -by those acquainted with the stream, that it is navigable five hundred -miles further. - -Texas has a seacoast of three hundred and fifty miles; and in a -commercial point of view is favorably situated. Its many navigable -streams afford great facilities for transporting the rich products of -its luxuriant soil to the United States and the rest of the world. It -will shortly be settled, its rich lands will become valuable, and it -will soon be a great and powerful state. - -Mill seats are not plenty. Although the streams run with a lively -current, yet there are not many falls suitable for mills; especially -in the lower part of the territory. On the sides of the streams, are -occasionally found ledges of limestone; but none of any kind are -seen scattered over the country.--The prairies are free from rocks, -brambles, bushes, and every thing except grass. They look like a finely -cultivated old field, well set in grass; sometimes flat, sometimes -rolling, but invariably having a surface entirely smooth and unbroken. -A carriage can run any where over them. Clay is found all over the -country, of an excellent quality for brick. In some places, coal and -iron ore are said to have been discovered. - -Such are the situation and resources of the country. Let us now look, -for a moment, at the inhabitants, and see how they are improved. The -Spaniards are not an agricultural people. They are more fond of raising -stock, than cultivating the land. They are also a very social people, -and fond of society. They are seldom found on farms alone, and at a -distance from neighbors. They formed some small villages in Texas, and -left the remainder of the country entirely unsettled. Some ten years -ago, the system of grants commenced; allowing an individual, under -certain regulations, to introduce and colonize foreigners. There are -now thirteen of these Grants, including a large portion of Texas, -to wit: Zavala, Burnet and Vehlein--now formed into the Galveston -Bay company--Austin's, Milam's, Robertson's, Cameron's, Dewitt's, De -Leon's, Felisola's, McMullen's and McGloin's, Powers' and Beal's. -On all these Grants, more or less settlements have been made, and -therefore, the population is scattered over an extent of country out -of all proportion to their numbers. The large tract granted to each -individual, tends to the same result. In riding through regions called -settled, a person may not find a house in thirty or forty miles; but -generally from ten to twenty. I believe there are from forty to fifty -thousand inhabitants in Texas; and a large proportion of them are -Americans. A person may travel all day; and day after day, and find -Americans only. He can hardly make himself believe that he is not still -in the United States. - -The exports of Texas are cotton, live-stock and peltries. The cotton -and peltries are sent either by Natchitoches, or by shipping through -the Gulf of Mexico, to New-Orleans. The live-stock--cattle, horses and -mules, are driven by land across the country to Natchez or New-Orleans. -The cost of driving is trifling. Plenty of grass is found all the way -for the stock; and the drivers carry their provisions, shoot game, &c. -and camp down near wood and water by the side of a fire, and cook their -meals. - -In this manner, a fellow traveller and myself camped out two or three -nights. It was quite a novelty to me to sleep in the open air; but the -people here think nothing of it. The wolves made rather too much noise, -for me to sleep quietly. One night, they awaked me out of a sound -sleep, by their discordant yells; I jumped up, dashed a club or two at -them, and off they went over the prairies. Our provisions were what -they sought, I presume, and not us. - -The inhabitants are, many of them, what our northern people would call -rather indolent. Occasionally, I found a good farm, large plantation -and fine herds of cattle, and all the comforts of life within their -dwellings; but more generally, the traveller only finds the log house, -built in an open, rude manner, with only one room, where he and the -family lodge together; and perhaps only corn-bread, meat and sweet -potatoes to eat. I called at some places where they had twenty or -thirty cows, and could get neither butter, cheese, or milk. They let -the calves run with the cows, and seldom milk them at all. I did not -find butter at half of the places where I called; and obtained cheese -only once in Texas. At only three places I found wheat bread. - -Although the climate is suitable to the production of Indian corn, yet -it is not cultivated to any extent. The reason is, stock is raised with -less trouble, and cotton is thought to be a more profitable crop. There -is hardly enough corn raised for the consumption of the inhabitants; -it, therefore, bears a high price. At St. Felipe, it was a dollar a -bushel; and at Velasco on the mouth of the Brazos river, I saw a bushel -of shelled corn sold for two dollars! - -Thus it is; man seems disinclined to "till the ground," and by "the -sweat of his face," to obtain his bread. It often happens, where -the earth produces in abundance with little labor, that little is -indifferently performed, so that all the comforts and conveniences of -life are less enjoyed, than in more sterile soils, and unpropitious -climes. Man will "'mid flowing vineyards die of thirst." Where nature -has done almost all, and scattered her favors without stint, man will -not stretch forth his hand, and gather her rich bounties. It is not -universally so. There are many exceptions to this in Texas. In many -instances, the comforts of life are enjoyed there to perfection. Man -may not be censured, for not performing severe bodily labor, if he can -well provide for himself and those dependent upon him, without it; but -life could not have been given, to be spent in listless idleness. A -vast field of usefulness is open to the active man; and he may do much -good in his day and generation, other than toil for gain. - -But another inducement is held out to the emigrant to settle in Texas, -besides the beauty of the country and productiveness of the soil. It -is the cheapness of the land. This is no small consideration. A man -with a family obtains a Spanish league of land, amounting to four -thousand four hundred and twenty-eight English acres, by paying the -expense of surveying it, office fees, &c. These expenses amount to one -hundred and eleven dollars, with the addition of thirty dollars to the -government. So that a man with a family has four thousand four hundred -and twenty-eight acres of land for the small sum of one hundred and -forty-one dollars. He must make application to an officer, called an -empressario, and obtain his consent; which is given in the form of a -certificate, stating the name of the family and the quantity of land -allowed. This certificate is presented to another officer, called a -commissioner, who orders a survey; and when completed, makes a deed -from the government to the emigrant. The only condition is, that the -land shall be settled upon, within a limited time. The emigrant may -make his own selection out of any lands, not previously granted. A -single man obtains one quarter of that quantity, with the privilege of -having three quarters more, when he is married. And provision is made, -that a foreigner, marrying a Mexican woman, may have a league and one -third. These terms are, certainly, very liberal. A man here obtains -good land, at a cheaper rate, than in any other part of the world. - -But the government have lately adopted another method of disposing of -their land. A regular land law has been enacted, and various offices -have been established for the sale of all the vacant land in the -province. A person desirous of purchasing public land, goes to the land -office in the district where the land is situated, files a petition -for a sale, and obtains an order for a survey. This land is laid off -into what is called _labors_ of one hundred and seventy-seven acres -each, and an individual may purchase as many labors as he pleases, up -to two hundred and seventy-five, which is about equal to fifty thousand -English acres. The minimum price is fixed at ten dollars per labor, -the purchaser paying the expense of surveying in addition. One third -of the purchase money is payable at the time of sale; the remainder in -two equal annual instalments; and the new settlers are exempt from the -payment of taxes for the term of ten years. - -But Texas has some evils, which will be deemed greater or less, -according to the particular section of the country the emigrant may -happen to come from. But still, they ought in fairness to be stated, -that all may judge for themselves. And in the first place there are -three kinds of venomous snakes--the great rattlesnake, the moccason -snake, and the prairie rattlesnake. The large rattlesnake is not very -plenty, and is seldom seen far out in the open prairie. A gentleman who -had lived in the country ten years told me he had killed only two in -the time. The moccason snake, deemed as poisonous as the rattlesnake, -seems to be more plenty; but they are not found except in or near wet, -marshy land. A gentleman told me, he had a small marsh near his house -which seemed to be a haunt for them, as occasionally he found some near -it, and in his door yard. He set half a dozen of his servants to cut -down the weeds, and dig a ditch to drain off the water; and in one day -they killed _forty-three_ moccason snakes; and he pleasantly added, it -was not a very good snake day neither. Perhaps this will be set down as -another "snake story;" but my authority is Mr. Elisha Roberts, living -on the main road, five miles north of St. Augustine; a very respectable -man as I was informed. The prairie rattlesnake is a small one, about a -foot in length, similar to that of Illinois. I saw only one in all my -wanderings through the country. There are other snakes, not venomous, -such as the coach-whip snake, the large black snake, which is here -called the "chicken snake," because it sometimes robs hen's nests; the -glass snake, which if you strike it, will break in a number of places, -and some others. Then, there is the tarantula, a large spider; and the -stinging lizard, a species of the scorpion, of a reddish color, and -about two inches long. The bite of the tarantula and stinging lizard -is, in pain and effect, similar to the sting of a bee. There is a weed -here, growing all over the country, which is a certain cure for the -bite of all these venomous reptiles. - -The alligator is found in the rivers of Texas. I saw three, one large -one; the other two, small ones. They sometimes catch hogs, as they go -down to the water to drink. They will attack a man in the water. A man -was seized by one on Little river, while I was in the country, who was -swimming across; but he was beaten off by a person near him, on a raft. - -Of the animals, there are many--the panther, wolf, wildcat, tiger cat, -bear, Mexican hog, antelope, &c. The wolves are the most numerous, and -are quite bold and mischievous. I frequently saw them in the day time, -and often heard their discordant howl in the night. - -One day, as I was riding along alone in the open woods, a panther came -out of a small thicket, into the path before me! I knew that retreat -would be dangerous; and, therefore, I boldly sung out and pushed -forward towards him. He was not disposed to give battle, but leaped -off at once into the woods. I was a good deal startled at this sudden -appearance of such a powerful, uncaged beast of the forest; but as he -appeared to be the most frightened of the two, I ought to be content. -The panther is an animal of the size and color of a full grown lioness, -but too cowardly to attack his prey in the open field. Like the Indian, -he lies in ambush, or sits perched on the branch of a tree, and seizes -his victim unawares. Even a small dog has been known to chase him into -his favorite retreat on a tree. The bears, generally, take to the dense -forest of trees and cane-brake. They catch the full grown hogs, and the -wolves take the pigs. - -Flies, of various kinds, are found here; and are more troublesome to -animals in the warm summer months, than at the north. I saw large -sores, caused by them, on cattle, dogs and hogs. An application of -mercury is sometimes found necessary to cure them. There is also a wood -tick, resembling that on sheep, which fastens itself on animals, but -does not appear to do any essential injury. - -But last, although not least, in the list of evils, is the ever active -moscheto. In the flat country, bordering on the sea and bays, they -are indeed dreadful to a northern man. When I was at the mouth of -the Brazos, towards the last of December, whether on the beach, in -the house, on board the vessel, day and night without cessation, the -moschetoes were excessively annoying. Give me a general assortment -of alligators, snakes and lizards, rather than subject me to the -eternal buzz, and stinging bite of the ever busy moscheto. Other -animals may be successfully combatted and subdued; but to fight the -moscheto is like "beating the air;" give a blow in front and he is -in the rear; brush the rear, and he is in front--and so on all day -long. And when you have done, you have only excessively fatigued and -perplexed yourself, and left him the uninjured master of the field. The -only chance to get rid of such a keen tormentor as this, is to hang -yourself, or run away. In the high rolling country, there are less -flies and no moschetoes. - -There are few remnants of tribes of Indians in the settled region of -Texas. They are generally said to be harmless and inoffensive; doing -nothing worse than stealing a hog or so, in a neighborly way; so that -they may not be entirely forgotten. A woman where I stopped one night, -told me that about twenty Indians encamped at the spring near her -house; came to the house for meal, and she gave them all she could -spare. In the morning, after they were gone, she found they had robbed -the yard of all the melons, and taken the fattest shoat she had. - -While I was in the country a man was shot at and wounded by an Indian, -near Jones' ferry on the Colorado river. As he was riding along -alone over the prairie, he saw a number of Indians by the side of a -wood, who beckoned for him to approach. When he had come quite near, -happening to cast his eyes towards the wood, he saw an Indian, partly -concealed behind a tree, with a gun drawn up in the act of firing. He -had only time to throw himself back on his horse, and the ball made a -slight flesh wound on his breast. He wheeled, put spurs to his horse -and escaped. Whether these were Indians belonging to the settled or -unsettled regions of Texas, could not be ascertained. - -Between the settlements and the Rocky Mountains, are large tribes of -Indians; and detached parties from them, sometimes come down to the -border plantations, and steal a few horses. They consider the Spaniards -lawful game; but do not care about fighting the Americans. They say, -the Americans are a brave people and fight most desperately; and from -them, they obtain their chief supplies. - -Perhaps my readers may think this rather a formidable array of animals -and reptiles. It may appear more so on paper, and at a distance, than -in the region where they are found. People of Mississippi, Alabama and -Florida, would find themselves at home among them; but to a northern -man they might be found somewhat disagreeable at first.--They would, -however, soon become so much accustomed to them, that in a short time -they would hardly regard them at all. The inhabitants here, from -whatever quarter they may have come, do not think they form any serious -objection to settling in the country. - -While I remained in Texas, I found no serious trouble from the animals, -reptiles or insects, except that general enemy to repose, the moscheto, -and that only in the lowlands. On the open prairies, there are but -few noxious animals, except the wolves. This is owing a good deal, -undoubtedly, to the fire running over them twice a year. As the country -becomes more settled, they will be less numerous; and some of them will -become entirely extinct. - -The water, generally, is very good for a southern country. I found many -fine springs of pure soft water in various parts of Texas; and in the -rolling prairies, good water is obtained by digging. The only objection -to it is in its temperature. To me, it was universally too warm to -be agreeable. "A cup of _cold_ water" is nowhere to be found in the -territory; and to a northern man, in a warm day, it is so refreshing, -reviving, invigorating--so readily slakes the thirst, and cools the -body, it is almost indispensable to his comfort and enjoyment. Warm -water is the common drink of the inhabitants. In the towns, I found -the various kinds of spirits and wine; but in the country, I found -no spirits, (except very seldom, whiskey) wine, beer, or cider; but -only water--_warm water_. It must be admitted, that the people are -very temperate, _if not to drink the ardent_ be a sure indication of -temperance. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - - -There are no large towns in Texas. Bexar, or as it is commonly called, -St. Antonio, is the capital, and contains about thirty-five hundred -inhabitants--the other villages are small, varying from one hundred -to one thousand souls. St. Antonio, like all the Spanish towns, -is composed of houses built of logs and mud, and makes a squalid -appearance. It is situated about twenty miles east of San Antonio -river. The principal towns are, Nacogdoches, St. Augustine; and on -Galveston Bay, Harrisburg and Lynchburg: on the Brazos--Velasco, -Brazoria, Columbia, St. Felipe, and a new town in Robinson's colony -at the falls: Cole's Settlement, fifteen miles west of the Brazos: on -the Colorado--Metagorda, Montezuma, Electra, Bastrap, or Mina: on the -Gaudalupe--Gonsales: on the San Antonio--Goliad, (formerly Bahia,) and -BEXAR: in Powell's Grant--St. Patrick: on the Rio Grande, or Rio del -Norte--Refugio, Metamoras, Reinosa, Camargo, Mier, Revilla, Laredo, -Presidio and the city of Doloros. - -A new town is laid out at the falls on the Brazos river in Robinson's -colony, about two hundred and fifty miles from its mouth. This is the -place where the land office is kept for this colony, and will become -quite a village. But the country is not now settled enough to make or -support large towns. It must be the work of time. Although men may -lay out a town, and commence building it, yet it cannot prematurely -be forced into existence. It must have a back settlement to support -it. The merchant and mechanic cannot sell, unless there are some -inhabitants to buy. - -The Spaniards, more than one hundred and fifty years ago, built -some small towns in Texas, the principal of which are St. Antonio, -Nacogdoches and La Bahia. These became something of villages; but for -twenty years their population has continually diminished; and the -country at large does not contain half the Spanish inhabitants that it -did at that time. They, like the Indians, dwindle away, or flee before -the settlements of the Americans. - -The Mexican government had three garrisons of soldiers stationed in -Texas--one at Nacogdoches, one on Galveston Bay, and one at Velasco, -at the mouth of the Brazos. Some of the commanders of these garrisons, -attempted to exercise despotic powers, in seizing Americans who had -become obnoxious to them, and putting them in prison. About two years -ago, their conduct became so oppressive, that the citizens rose _en -masse_, killed some of the soldiers, and took the remainder prisoners. -The Mexican government then recalled all the officers and soldiers, -and there has not been a Mexican garrison in Texas since. - -The inhabitants of the country pay no taxes at all. It is said that -the lands are exempt from taxation for ten years to come. All articles -imported for the private use of the emigrant, are free of duty; and in -fact, a great portion of the merchandize pays none. When I left the -Brazos river, there was no custom house officer upon it; and a number -of vessel loads of goods were landed, without being required to pay any -duty. - -Almost all kinds of goods afford a good profit and a ready sale in -Texas; especially domestic cottons, boots, shoes, hats and ready made -clothing. Coffee is used in large quantities, but I did not find -hardly a cup of tea in the whole country. It is not a good place for -mechanics. Manufactured articles of all kinds are brought from the -north, and sold cheaper than they can be made here; and the country -is too thinly settled, and the raw material is too scarce, to give -much employment to artisans of what is called custom work, such as -shoemakers, tailors, &c. Blacksmiths, however, are an exception to -this. They are indispensable, although there are now but few of them. -The price charged for shoeing a horse is from three to four dollars. - -Texas is connected with Cohahuila, and both form one province of the -Mexican Confederacy. But lately, they have been made into separate -judicial districts; each having its own courts and officers. In -Texas their proceedings in court and the records, are in the English -language; but land titles are still written in the Spanish. The laws -are liberal; they guarantee the freedom of religious opinion and -a trial by jury. Courts are held in St. Felipe, Nacogdoches, St. -Augustine, Bastrap, &c. The government is elective and republican. I -attended an election of sheriff and other county officers. They vote -_viva voce_, as the practice is in many of our southern States. To be -an inhabitant of the country, is all the qualification necessary to -become a voter. - -Physicians are occasionally found in the country, and there are a small -number of lawyers located in the principal towns. There are but few -preachers of the gospel, and I believe no meeting houses, except some -decayed Roman Catholic churches. - -The country needs more professional men. It opens a fine field for -enterprising men in any profession. The wheels of government in Texas -move quietly along. The storms which agitate and distract the city -of Mexico and its vicinity, spend their force before they reach that -province. I think, the government forms no serious objection to forming -a settlement in the country. - -But in a new and thinly settled country, the laws, however wise and -good, cannot always be enforced. Magistrates and executive officers -are few, and courts often at a distance. The new settlers, therefore, -sometimes take the law into their own hands; and although they may not -inflict the same punishment the law enjoins, I believe they generally -do substantial justice. As an instance of the kind, I will state a -case that happened on the bank of the Colorado river. A man settled -there, who proved to be a notorious thief. He stole cattle, horses, -hogs, or any thing he could lay his hands on. His neighbors resolved to -endure his depredations no longer, and gave him notice to depart from -that section of the country, or abide the consequences. After waiting -awhile, and learning that he intended to remain, some half dozen of his -neighbors went to his house in the evening, took him to a tree, and -gave him thirty-nine lashes, well laid on. They then told him that the -punishment should be repeated every week, as long as he remained in the -neighborhood. Before a week came round, he left that section of the -country, and has not been heard of since. - -In the interior of the country, there is a salt lake, from which a -load of fine salt may be obtained in a short time; and appears to be -inexhaustible. A small stream runs from this to the Brazos river, and -sometimes renders its waters too brackish for use. - -By the laws, slavery is not allowed in the province; but this law -is evaded by binding the negroes by indenture for a term of years. -You will, therefore, find negro servants, more or less, all over the -country; but more, on the lowlands, towards the bays and seacoast. -Large cotton plantations, in this section of the country, are -cultivated by negroes; and here also are found some good houses and -rich farmers. - -Texas lies between the twenty-seventh and thirty-fourth degrees of -north latitude; and between sixteen degrees thirty minutes, and -twenty-seven degrees west longitude from Washington; and contains -probably about one hundred and fifty thousand square miles--as large -as all New-England and the State of New-York. It is bounded, east by -the Sabine river and a line drawn due north from its head waters to Red -River--south, by the Gulf of Mexico--west, by the river Neuces, Rio del -Norte, and the Cordillera mountains--north, by the Red River, until it -hits its eastern boundary. - -More than half of the country is prairie. The margin of the streams -and the moist highlands are covered with a fine growth of timber. All -the seacoast and on the bays, there is a strip of low, level land, -extending seventy miles into the country. The prairies are here very -rich, but too level to be pleasant or healthy. The remainder of Texas -is high, dry and gently undulating; but not mountainous. Between the -rivers Sabine and Trinity, are extensive, gently undulating, sandy -plains, generally covered with a good growth of pitch pine; but -occasionally covered with post-oaks, hickory, &c. Among these, are -interspersed small prairies of good land; sometimes having a black -soil, but generally of a reddish cast, and occasionally of a deep red. -From the river Trinity to the western line of the State, are high, -rolling, beautiful prairies of all sizes and shapes imaginable. So -beautiful are these prairies, that the imagination cannot paint a more -delightful scene. Cultivation, however nicely performed, will rather -mar, than add to their beauty. They are surrounded with a dense forest -of trees; sometimes two or three miles in depth, and sometimes only of -a few yards. On the highlands, or elevated plains, are frequently found -oak-openings, similar to those of Michigan and Illinois. Texas, with -the exception of the pine plains, may with truth be said to possess a -deep, rich soil of black marl. - -That portion of the country lying between the Colorado river and -Louisiana, is subject to powerful rains in the fall and spring; but as -you go southward and westward towards the city of Mexico, the rains -become less frequent, and not so abundant. About two months in summer, -it is generally quite dry; sometimes, so severe is the drought that -vegetation withers, and the grass on the prairies becomes dry. To the -southward of Texas, the Spaniards irrigate their lands to make them -produce a more abundant crop. The planting season is so early, (from -the first to the middle of February,) that all the crops, except cotton -and sugar cane, come to maturity before the dry weather commences; and -these get such a vigorous start in this luxuriant soil, that they are -seldom materially injured by the drought. - -The roads are all in a state of nature; yet so smooth is the surface, -and so gently undulating is the face of the country, that in dry -weather, better roads are not found any where. A person, however, often -meets with moist bottom land, and streams difficult to pass. In the wet -season, travelling is more disagreeable and difficult; and sometimes -impracticable, on account of the swollen, rapid streams of water. - -Although carriages run without difficulty all over the country, yet -the inhabitants have not yet introduced pleasure carriages. The mode -of travelling is on horseback; but women and children often go in a -baggage wagon drawn by oxen. Baggage wagons are quite numerous, but I -found only one pleasure carriage in the whole province, and that was a -gig-wagon. - -Emigrants are continually pouring into Texas, both by sea and by land, -and from every section of the United States. The southerners generally -choose the lowlands bordering on the bays and Gulf; but the northern -people prefer the high lands in the interior. If emigration continues, -it will soon contain a very respectable population. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - - -I found some of the emigrants disappointed, discontented and unhappy; -and I met one man on his return to the land from whence he came. He -was from Tennessee, had moved into Texas with his family and a small -portion of his goods in a wagon; but they all did not like the country -so well as the one they had left, and unanimously agreed to return. It -was a tedious and expensive journey, but not altogether useless. It -will teach them more highly to prize their own country, neighborhood -and privileges, and induce them to spend the remainder of their days -with contented minds. - -Before a man with a family makes up his mind to emigrate to a new, -unsettled and distant country, he ought well to consider of the -subject. Emigration, like matrimony, ought to be fully considered; as -a bad move in this particular, is attended by many evils, and cannot -well be remedied. In the first place, it is the best way to "let well -enough alone." If an individual be well settled in life, has profitable -employment, well supports himself and family and gains a little every -year, dwells in an agreeable neighborhood, has the privilege of sending -his children to school, and of attending public worship, why should -he wish to remove? Why should he wish to go into the wilderness, -endure the fatigues of a long journey, and the many hardships and -deprivations, necessarily attendant upon a removal to the most favored -spot in the new world? This life is too short and uncertain to be spent -in making doubtful experiments. It is wise, to live where we can be the -most useful and happy ourselves, and where we have the fairest prospect -of rendering others so, with whom we are connected. - -But the young man who has no lucrative employment, and the married man -who has to labor hard to gain a scanty subsistence for himself and -family, would do well to go to the rich prairies of the south or west. -He ought to be careful not to be too much elated with the prospect -before him, for disappointment, fatigue and suffering most assuredly -await him. It is not "a light thing" to travel with a family of goods -two or three thousand miles.--He ought to accustom his mind to dwell -upon hardship and suffering, before he commences his journey. Young -says-- - - "Our only lesson is to learn to suffer; - And he who knows not that, was born for nothing." - -But on his arrival at his location in the new world, however fine, rich -and elegant the situation may be, he will feel disappointed and sad. -This is perfectly natural; and although some may have too much pride to -acknowledge it, yet they all have a strangeness of feeling pervading -their breasts, that is sometimes painful in the extreme. Perhaps -the emigrant had never before travelled far from the smoke of his -father's dwelling, and had spent his life hitherto in the neighborhood -where he was born, and where his early and innocent attachments were -formed. He now finds himself in a new country, far away from the -ever-to-be-remembered scenes of his childhood, and he looks abroad upon -the world around him, in sadness of heart; for it is a world, however -beautiful it may be, that is a stranger to him, and with which he has -no sympathy. Not to feel, under such circumstances as these, indicates -something more or less than man. And this strange, lonely feeling is -hardly softened down and mitigated, by the well known fact, that his -new location is far superior to the one he has left. The inhabitants -of Nantucket are proverbially attached to that island of sand, and -are discontented and unhappy in the most fertile towns and beautiful -villages on the continent. - -The emigrant ought to think of all these things, before he leaves -his native village. But when he has become located in the new world, -it will not do to shrink back and despond. He must brace himself to -the task before him, and cheer up his family, who in fact need some -cheering, for exchanging a well built house and pleasant associates, -for the rude log hut and wild beasts of the forests. They will all -soon become acquainted with the new world and form new associations. -A well built house will shortly take the place of the rude cabin, and -emigrants will settle near them, to whom they will become attached. -The rich fields will produce an abundant harvest, and large herds of -cattle will be seen feeding on the luxuriant grass. He will soon gain a -competency, live at ease, and become contented and happy. - -The inhabitants have a strong belief that Texas will at some future -day become one of the United States; but I think this, extremely -doubtful. It is more probable, that it will in time become an -independent sovereignty. It is now one of the Mexican States, and -the seat of the general government is in the city of Mexico. The -confederacy is composed of quite a number of States, and Texas sends -its due proportion of representatives to the general Congress, to -make laws for the whole. These States have never been well agreed in -their form of government, or in the men for rulers. Revolutions, and -counter-revolutions, have been the order of the day at the seat of the -general government; but Texas is too much settled by Americans, and is -too far removed from these intestine commotions to be much affected by -them. - -Col. Stephen F. Austin, to whom the first colony was granted, and -who has been the indefatigable pioneer in the settlement of Texas, -has generally been its representative in the general government. In -the spring of 1834, he was at the seat of government, but so great -were the divisions that little business could be done. He considered -the country in a state of revolution, and wrote home to a friend of -his, that he believed Texas had better take care of itself and form a -government of its own. This friend proved treacherous, enclosed his -letter to the President, and sent it to the city of Mexico. It was -received just after Col. Austin had left the city on his return home. -He was pursued, arrested, brought back and put in prison. He was for -awhile kept in close confinement; and then, let out on his giving bonds -to confine himself to the limits of the city. When I was in Texas, it -was believed, he would shortly be liberated, and was daily expected -home; but I have since learned, that he was not liberated until some -months after my return. - -It requires not the gift of prophecy to tell what the end of these -things will be. Texas will become tired of belonging to such a -discordant confederacy; and when their population shall have -sufficiently increased to insure success, will throw off the yoke, and -form a government of their own. But at all events, it will soon be -disjoined from Cohahuila, establish its own State government, and elect -its own officers. The seat of government will probably be San Felipe, -on the Brazos river. - -In some publications the people of Texas have been slandered. They -have been called a set of robbers and murderers, screening themselves -from justice, by fleeing from their own country and coming to this. It -would be strange, indeed, if there were not such instances; but whoever -travels over the country, will find them as pleasant, obliging and kind -as any people in the United States. In the towns, you generally find a -billiard room; and near it, a race-course. At these resorts, are found -the favorite amusements of the inhabitants. I went all through the -country, unarmed and unharmed; nor did I at any time feel in jeopardy -of life or limb. Their most prominent fault is, in being too fond of -pastime and hunting, to the neglect of tilling the land, building -decent houses, and procuring the conveniences of life. - -The most healthy and pleasant portions of Texas are in the regions of -Nacogdoches; in the rolling country between the Brazos and Colorado; -and southward and westward of the latter river--in Beal's Grant, near -the Rio del Norte; and high up on the Brazos and its branches, in -Robinson's colony. But neither Galveston Bay, nor the flat country all -along the seacoast, is the place for a northern man. It is too much -infested with alligators, moccason snakes and moschetoes. It is more -suitable for southern planters, to be cultivated by the blacks. - -But whoever emigrates with his family to Texas, let him, at all events, -carry with him bread stuffs to last six months; for there is no wheat -raised in the country, and only a small crop of corn for the supply -of its own inhabitants. Of course, bread stuffs are always dear, and -sometimes unattainable at any price. Cattle and hogs are plenty, and -wild game abundant, so that he could supply himself with meat in this -country. - -The emigrant had better buy his cattle and horses here; for those -brought from a more northern climate do not thrive well, and often -die. A good serviceable horse may be bought for, from twenty to thirty -dollars; a cow with a calf by her side, for ten dollars; and a yoke of -oxen for about thirty dollars. The land is ploughed by oxen, horses and -mules; but journeys for the transportation of merchandize are performed -by oxen. - -There is a mail running from the city of Mexico, through St. Felipe, -as far as Nacogdoches; but as the United States mail goes no farther -than Fort Jessup, the two mails do not meet each other, by seventy-five -miles. There is, therefore, no mail connection between the United -States and Texas. This is a serious inconvenience, and must shortly be -remedied. The only chance to send a letter either way, is by a private -conveyance. This is generally done by the captains of vessels. - -The currency is silver and gold coin, bills of the United States Bank -and those of New Orleans.--Copper coins are not found in circulation at -the south and west. Texas has no bank of its own. - -Thus much for my general view of Texas. I have endeavored to give a -true account of the country as it appeared to me. Perhaps it may not -be altogether acceptable to landholders and speculators. Be that as it -may, I believe I have performed an acceptable service to the emigrant, -by giving him a fair account of the country; and one that he will find -to be a true one, in all its essential particulars, on his arrival. -Live stock, cotton and sugar are and will be the great staples of the -country--grain will be of secondary consideration. - -What, then, is the conclusion of the whole matter? Is Texas a desirable -place for a northern man? My opinion is, that if a northern man would -locate himself in the highlands of the country, he would enjoy health -as well as at the north; procure all the necessaries and conveniences -of life much easier; and might, in time, become independently rich. I -do think he would find the climate more pleasant, and more congenial to -his feelings, than a northern one; and his life probably attended by -more enjoyments. - -I have been frequently asked, what particular spot in Texas is the most -desirable for an emigrant to settle in? My answer is, I cannot tell. -And whoever travels over the country, will be as much puzzled to tell -as I am. The fact is, there are hundreds of places offering about the -same inducements--all pleasant, healthy and agreeable. Among them, it -is quite immaterial what particular one the emigrant may select. I saw -an emigrant who had been in the country almost a year, and he had -been riding over it the chief part of the time, and still was unable -to make a selection. He said there were so many fine situations, so -nearly alike, that he found it difficult to give a decided preference -to any particular one. When he will be able to make up his mind, and -decide the question, I know not. The last time I saw him, he was still -on the wing; and for aught I know, he may keep in motion as long as the -far-famed Boston traveller, _Peter Rugg_, or the _Flying Dutchman_, and -never be able to find a spot of ground for a permanent abode! But this -emigrant is not to be "sneezed at." Questions of far less importance -have agitated the world; and who knows, but that the destiny of the -country, as well as his own, eminently depends upon his particular -location! - -Again--I have been enquired of, what can a man do to make property in -Texas? I answer, he can go into trade in some of the villages, and -make large profits upon his goods. He can go on to a plantation, and -raise cotton, sugar, corn, or stock--any or all of these are easily -raised, and find a ready market. This is what he _may_ do; but what -he _will_ do, is altogether uncertain. He may become as indolent and -inattentive to business, as many of the inhabitants of the country. He -may spend his time in hunting, at the race-course, and at the billiard -table. _Here_, at the north, the great anxiety is, how we shall -live--wherewithal we shall be clothed, and how we can turn a penny -to "get gain;" _there_, the great concern is, how they shall employ -themselves to kill time. _Here_, we struggle hard to live; _there_, -they strive hard not to live. _Here_, we live in spite of nature; -_there_, nature makes them live in spite of themselves. Could an -emigrant know what course he would take on settling in Texas, he could -then tell, whether it would be better to go or remain. I have spread -the country open before him; let him judge for himself. And fortunate -is he, who gives heed to the experience of others, and makes a wise -choice. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - -I concluded to return to the north by water. I procured a conveyance -from the interior to St. Felipe on horseback; and here I learnt that -there was a schooner sixty miles down the river at Columbia, bound to -New-Orleans, which would sail in a few days. I could find no conveyance -to Columbia, either by land or water. I found a wagon going down for -merchandize, on which I put my baggage; and in company with another -gentleman, whom I found in the same predicament with myself, started -off on foot. - -St. Felipe is the head quarters of Austin's colony. It is a small -village, on a high prairie, immediately on the south bank of the Brazos -river, nearly one hundred miles from the sea. It stands on the first -high land you come to on the river; and at this spot the high rolling -country commences. Its situation is beautiful and commanding. It has -two taverns, four or five stores, a court house, and perhaps twenty -dwelling houses; but there are only two or three good looking buildings -in the place. The opposite side of the river is low, and covered with a -heavy growth of timber. - -St. Felipe, like most of the southern villages, is not without its -billiard room; and its usual, I might say invariable accompaniment, the -grog shop.--Billiards is a pleasant and manly game enough; and good -exercise for a sedentary man; and if indulged in only for amusement, -is as innocent as any recreation whatever. It is a game much played in -the middle and southern portions of the United States; and men of the -first respectability are found at the table. But in this section of the -country, it cannot be recommended as a safe place for recreation. It is -generally used as a mere gambling apparatus; and a person meets with a -class of society not the most civil, sober and peaceable. - -Not long since, a young man played with an old gambler, until he became -tired, and started off. The gambler came out at the door, and called -him back; but finding he could not induce him to return, out of mere -wantonness and sport, commenced throwing brickbats at him. The young -man was a cripple, and could neither run, nor successfully contend -with his athletic opponent. He bore it as long as he could, then drew -a pistol and shot him through the body. He fell dead upon the spot, -without uttering a word. He had been an overbearing, troublesome -fellow, and his death was the cause of joy rather than sorrow. - -One night, while I was at St. Felipe, two young men returned from a -bloody affray, thirty miles down the river. Early the next morning, two -other men, fully armed, entered the town in pursuit, and paraded the -streets in hostile array. I enquired into the history of the case, and -found the following particulars. - -Sometime previous, one of the young men paid his addresses to a young -lady, and was engaged to be married. He went to the north on some -mercantile business; and during his absence, another young man by the -name of Thompson, commenced his particular attentions to the young -lady; and the match was strongly advocated by his father. On his return -from the north, he and another young man who had married a sister of -the lady in question, payed a visit to her father's--stayed all night, -and started in the forenoon, to return to St. Felipe. One of them -was in a light gig-wagon, the other on horseback. They had proceeded -but a few miles when they heard the clattering of horses' feet, at -full speed, behind them. On looking round, they saw young Thompson's -father, and a doctor of the neighborhood, in close pursuit, with -pistols in hand. The young men were also armed; and immediately shots -were exchanged by both parties. But such was the hurry and agitation -of the moment, that none took effect. They all dismounted at once, -and at it they went, in a desperate contest for life and death. The -doctor, not liking this part of the game, or not feeling exactly brave -on the occasion, was contented to stand aloof, and see the battle -rage. Old Thompson was a powerful man, and about an equal match for -both of his opponents. He laid about him like a giant; and sometimes -had one grounded, and then the other; and apparently, would shortly -gain the victory over them both. At length, he knocked one down, and -seemed determined to despatch him at once. He seized him by the throat, -and called upon the doctor for a knife. The other young man saw at a -glance the critical state of the contest--he jumped to the wagon, took -out a loaded gun, just in time to stop the doctor, by his threats, -from handing the knife, then took deliberate aim at Thompson, and shot -him through the body. Thompson fell back, said he was a dead man, and -expired in a few minutes. The doctor ran to his horse, mounted and fled -with all convenient speed. The young men, having been rather roughly -handled, were considerably bruised, although not seriously injured. -They picked up the deadly weapons of the battle-field, as trophies of -victory, and made the best of their way to St. Felipe. - -In a short time, the doctor, young Thompson and some others, came to -the battle-ground, and carried home the dead body; and without waiting -to attend the funeral, young Thompson and the doctor started after the -young men, to avenge his death. It caused no small stir at St. Felipe, -when they arrived, and paraded the streets fully armed, and breathing -out threatenings. The young men took to a store, and with arms in their -hands, awaited the result. The civil authority, however, interfered. -The young men gave themselves up to the custody of the law, and -Thompson and the doctor were persuaded to go home, and abide a trial by -jury. - -It is no pleasure to me to give an account of such lawless battles; -but as a faithful chronicler of events I could not pass them over in -silence. Texas, however, is not more the theatre of them, than many -places in the United States. If the value of an article is enhanced in -proportion to its scarcity, it is more excusable to fight for a lady -here, than elsewhere; for, according to the best estimate I could make, -there are ten men to one woman in the country. And could the surplus -maiden population of New-England be induced to emigrate to Texas, they -would meet with a cordial reception; and it might prove, not only -advantageous to themselves, but highly beneficial to the country. - -In two miles from the town, we came to the flat, low country. It was, -generally, muddy and very disagreeable and fatiguing to travel over. -It was all an open prairie country, except a small skirt of timber -immediately on the banks of the little streams; and almost a dead -level, except in one place, twelve miles from Columbia. Here, a hundred -acres or more rise thirty or forty feet above the general level of the -country, and by way of distinction, is called "the mound." Near the -streams, the ground was a little elevated; and at such places, we found -houses, and some small improvements, probably, in eight or ten miles of -each other. We saw a great many herds of deer, and flocks of wild geese -and ducks. - -We were almost four days in performing the route; and were excessively -fatigued, when we entered the small village of Columbia. This is a -new village, having two or three stores, a tavern, and half a dozen -dwelling houses. It is situated on a level prairie, two miles from the -river, and ten above Brazoria. There is a small village immediately on -the bank of the river, called Bell's Landing; and the space between the -two, is low bottom land, heavily covered with timber. - -At this landing, vessels come up and unload their merchandize, destined -for the upper country. It has a tavern, two stores, a large warehouse, -and three or four dwelling houses. Here I was informed, the schooner -had dropped down the stream. I stopped over night, and rather than -walk, I obtained a log canoe, and a man to paddle me down to Brazoria. -The tide sets up a little further than Bell's Landing, and our boat, -having the advantage of its ebb and the current also, floated us down -in two hours. - -Brazoria is quite a large village. I found some very good buildings, -public houses, stores, and as usual, a billiard room. A newspaper is -published here, called the Brazoria Gazette; and I believe is the -only one printed in all Texas. The situation of the town is low and -unpleasant; and subject to the fever and ague. I found a steamboat -here, going up the river; but the vessel had gone further down; so we -started in the canoe after her; and rowing fifteen miles we found her -by the side of the river, taking in bales of cotton. I was glad to get -on board the vessel, and be relieved at once from the tediousness and -fatigue of pursuit, and from the uncertainty of obtaining a passage to -the United States. - -The vessel remained here, until the next day, when we sailed with a -light breeze down the stream. The river is very crooked, so that it is -twice as far from Brazoria to its mouth by water, as it is by land. -We had to tie the vessel up to a tree at night, as it was too dark to -proceed. The next day in the afternoon, we hauled up again, on account -of a head wind. The mate stept ashore to spend the time in hunting. -The river is lined with timber on both sides, about a mile in width; -and then, the country is generally an open, level prairie. The mate -became entirely bewildered and lost; could not find his way back to -the vessel; and was obliged to camp out for the night. In the morning, -the captain sent scouts in various directions after him; but they all -returned without success. The captain concluded he must have gone -towards the mouth of the river; so he hoisted sail and started on. -Nearly noon, the mate made his appearance on the river bank, nearly -opposite the vessel; and the captain sent his boat for him. He was -quite exhausted.--He had wandered about almost the whole time, and -could neither find a house, road or river. He said he never had been -used to hunting; but he could not conceive why people were so fond of -it, as it was much more pain than pleasure to him. 'Every one to his -trade.' A hunter would have found as little pleasure on the ocean, as -the sailor did on the land. This hunting expedition afforded no little -merriment to the captain and crew, at his expense, during the voyage. - -The timber on the river banks became less, as we descended; and -for five miles above the mouth, there is none at all. A small town -called Velasco is situated on the sandy beach, at the river's -mouth--containing one public house, two stores, four or five dwelling -houses, and the ruins of an old Spanish fort. We stayed two days here, -waiting for a fair wind to cross the bar. I frequently amused myself -by walking for miles on the sandy beach, and picking up some of the -pretty shells among the millions that lay scattered along. It is as -fine a walk as a pensive maiden, in contemplative mood, could desire. -On the one hand, is the ever-toiling ocean, whose waves break upon -the sand bars, and in giddy globes of foam, lash the shore, and spend -their force beneath your feet: on the other, a low, sandy bluff, and -then an extended lawn, stretching far away into the interior, and its -utmost verge skirted with stately forest trees; and the pathway itself, -smooth, hard and level, and bedecked with countless beautiful shells of -various sizes, shapes and hues. - -The Brazos is an unpleasant stream. Its waters are at all times muddy; -its banks are generally low and present a raw edge to the eye as you -pass along; and in many places the navigation is rendered difficult, -by reason of the many snags. At its mouth, there is a bar, generally -having not more than five or six feet of water; and the channel so -narrow that a vessel can only pass through with a fair wind. Three -vessels had been wrecked on the coast the past season. The remains of -two of them, lay in sight partly buried in the sand. - -In the spring, the waters of all the streams in Texas are high, and -bring down from the upper country, large quantities of timber. The -mouth of the Brazos, and a long distance on the seashore, is lined -with large masses of trees; and from this source the inhabitants of -Velasco obtain their fuel. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - -One morning, near the last of December, the captain announced a fair -wind. He weighed anchor, hoisted sail, and with a stiff breeze pushed -out to sea. The vessel only drew five feet water, yet she touched three -or four times on the bar; but did no apparent damage. I stood upon the -deck, until the land, trees and houses faded away in the distance. - -Texas, like a beautiful damsel, has many charms and attractions, but -is not entirely faultless. Indeed, there is no such place as a perfect -elysium on earth. And those who have formed their opinion of the -country from some of the many late publications concerning it, will -feel some disappointment on their arrival. But its many beauties will -hide a multitude of faults; or render them light and easily borne. I -must say of Texas, as Cowper said of England, "with all its faults, -I like it still;" and although I had experienced some hardships and -inconveniences while in the country, yet its mild climate, pleasant -streams, and enchanting "fields of living green," I left at last with -serious regret. - -The fall of the year is the best time to move into Texas; or into any -of the western States. There are four good reasons to give for this -preference: 1st. It is then better travelling; both on account of the -dryness of the roads, and the mild temperature of the weather--neither -too hot or too cold. 2d. It is more healthy on the road--not so much -danger of contracting disease on the way; and to be there at the -opening of the spring, and become accustomed to the climate and warm -weather by degrees, there will be a fairer prospect of continued -health. 3d. It is the time of the year when provisions are the most -plenty and cheapest; an emigrant can, therefore, the more readily -supply himself on the road, and after his arrival. 4th. It is the -shortest time a person can be in the country, and raise a crop the -ensuing season. To arrive in October, or the first of November, he will -have plenty of time to build a log house, split out rails and fence in -a field by the coming spring, so as to raise a crop.--Were he to go in -the spring, he would be obliged to support himself and family a whole -year before he could get a crop into the ground. - -To go from the north to Texas, the better way is to take a passage -on board a vessel bound to Galveston Bay, the river Brazos, or the -Colorado. But if a vessel cannot readily be found, going direct to -Texas, a passage may be taken to New-Orleans; and from thence, a -person can go up the Red River to Natchitoches, and across the country; -or by water through the Gulf, to almost any port on the bays and -rivers. The distance from Boston by water, is three thousand miles; -by land, it is not quite so far. From the city of New-York, vessels -frequently may be found going direct to Texas. The most convenient -places for landing in Texas are Harrisburg, on Galveston Bay; Velasco, -at the mouth of the Brazos, and Metagorda at the mouth of the Colorado. -It would be advisable to get a protection, more especially, if a person -goes by water. - -Speculation--ever busy, active speculation, pervades the world. -It rages with violence in Maine, disturbs the quiet villages of -New-England, keeps the western world alive, and visits the shores -of Texas. I was at a loss to know how speculation could get hold of -Texas lands; for they are only granted to the actual settler and only -one grant given to each. Human ingenuity has devised a plan. When an -emigrant arrives in the country, he is met by a land speculator, who -tells him he knows of a good location, and if he will go and settle -on it, he shall have one half of the league for nothing. The land is -entered at the land office in the emigrant's name, the speculator pays -the fees, and takes a deed of one half, from the emigrant. This is not -the worst kind of speculation in the world. It, probably, may prove -beneficial to both parties. The emigrant at least, seems to have no -cause for complaint. He gets twenty three hundred acres of land, as -much as he can ever cultivate, and pays nothing at all for it. - -We had four passengers on board; two of whom were afflicted with that -lingering disease called the fever and ague. They had resided a few -months in the lowlands of Texas, and became so severely afflicted, -they were returning to the United States for health. The other was a -physician, who had gone up the river as far as Columbia; did not like -the country and was on his return home to Tennessee. I informed him, he -had not seen the most desirable portion of the country. And such was -the fact.--But he had read some of the descriptions of the "beautiful -river Brazos and the fine country adjacent," and was thereby completely -deceived. - -A sea voyage is always unpleasant to me. The wind blew a strong breeze, -the waves rolled high, and made our vessel dance over them like a -feather. We all became dreadfully sea sick. It is a terrible feeling; -and those afflicted with it, probably endure as much excruciating pain -and distress, as the human system is capable of sustaining. In two -days, the wind abated in a measure, and the sea became comparatively -smooth. We crawled out upon deck, our sickness abated, and soon left us -entirely. - -On the fifth day, just at night, we saw the light at the southwest pass -of the Mississippi. It soon became dark, and the captain in attempting -to enter the mouth of the river, run the vessel aground near the -shore. A scene here occurred, that somewhat startled us. We were in -the cabin and felt the vessel strike and heard the waves dash against -her.--We ran up on deck, and there saw the captain seated upon the -windlass, writhing in agony, and groaning like one in despair! The idea -struck us in a moment, that the captain saw our danger to be imminent, -the vessel would dash in pieces, and we must all perish. But we were -immediately relieved from our apprehensions. In the darkness of the -night, and hurry of the moment, the captain had been thrown across the -pump, and severely injured; and it was from actual pain of body, rather -than anguish of mind that made him groan so bitterly. We did not, -however, feel entirely at ease. We were exposed to the open sea; and if -the wind should rise, and blow hard on shore, the vessel must be dashed -to pieces, and we escape the best way we could. - -But we were highly favored. The wind died away and the sea became quite -calm. We retired to our berths, and slept quietly. In the morning, -we carried out an anchor; at flood tide, hauled the vessel off; a -steamboat took us in tow, and at the dinner hour, we were gallantly -gliding up the river. So change the scenes of life. - -The Mississippi steam tow-boats have engines of immense power. Our -boat had six vessels in tow, and it carried us along at the rate of -four miles an hour, against the strong current of the river. From the -mouth of the Mississippi to New-Orleans is one hundred and fifteen -miles, and we performed the trip in about twenty-eight hours. The price -charged for towing up the river is a dollar a ton; and the amount the -boat received from all the vessels was about five hundred dollars. The -vessels are towed down stream for half price and sometimes less. - -Fifteen miles from the sea, the Mississippi divides itself into three -channels, each having a lighthouse near the mouth; but the southwest -pass is the only one in which ships can enter when loaded. The river -continually pushes its banks further out to sea. They are formed of mud -and logs, and soon become covered with a rank growth of rushes. - -The banks of the river are low, and too wet for cultivation, for fifty -miles from the sea. Soon after passing fort Jackson, which is about -forty miles up the river, we came to sugar plantations on both sides, -and these continued to the city of New-Orleans. On many of these large -plantations we saw elegant houses, surrounded by orange trees, loaded -with fruit. In the rear, sugar houses, and steam mills for grinding -the cane, and long rows of neat looking negro houses; and large stacks -of rice standing near them. The planters were all busily engaged in -making sugar; and we saw armies of negroes in the fields, cutting and -transporting the cane to the mills. January had already commenced, yet -there had been no frost to destroy vegetation, and the cane looked as -green as in midsummer. The crop of sugar was unusually large, and of an -excellent quality. - -The sugar cane, in size, stalk and leaf very much resembles the -southern corn. It has, however, no spindles at the top like a corn -stalk, but terminates in a tuft of long leaves. It does not appear to -produce any seed in this country but the crop is annually renewed, by -planting short slips of the stalk. Its juice is sweet, pleasant and -nutritious.--The negroes are very fond of chewing the stalk; and I saw -some bundles of it at the vegetable market in New-Orleans for sale. -When the cane comes to maturity, it is cut up and ground with smooth -nuts, which in fact only compress the stalk, and force out the juice. -This is caught in a large trough underneath, and undergoes the same -process of boiling in large kettles, as the sap of a northern maple, -when made into sugar. When the boiling is completed, the sugar is put -into a large cistern full of holes in the bottom, where it remains a -number of days, that all the molasses that will, may drain out. It is -then put into hogsheads and sent to market. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - - -On the eastern bank of the Mississippi, stands the city of New-Orleans. -It is regularly laid out, chiefly built of brick, has many fine blocks -of buildings, large houses and handsome streets; but its site is -too low for it to appear to advantage, or to render it pleasant and -agreeable. It stretches two miles along the river bank; and for that -distance, the levee is lined with triple and quadruple rows of vessels, -steamboats and flat-boats; all having their particular location by -themselves. The trade of New-Orleans is immense. By the weekly shipping -register, it appeared there were two hundred and thirty-four vessels -in port. The levee is loaded with bales of cotton, barrels of pork -and flour, hogsheads of hams, kegs of lard and hogsheads of sugar and -molasses. It is a place of great business, bustle and blandishment; and -of dissipation, disease and death. - -As I passed along by its muddy pavements and putrid gutters, and saw -the many gambling houses, grog shops, oyster shops, and houses of -riot and debauchery, surely, thought I, there are many things here -exceedingly offensive, both to the physical and moral man. And when I -saw the motley throngs, hurrying on to these haunts of vice, corruption -and crime, I almost instinctively exclaimed, in the words of the -immortal bard-- - - "Broad is the road that leads to death, - And thousands walk together there!" - -But here, the career of the debauchee is short.--The poisonous -atmosphere soon withers and wastes away his polluted life's blood. -Death follows close upon the heels of crime; and one need stand but a -short time at the charnel house, to behold cartloads of his victims, -hurried on, "unwept, unhonored and unsung," to their last home! - -Life seems to be valued by its possessor, in proportion to the strength -of the tenure by which it is held. When danger becomes imminent, and -life's termination apparently near, instead of making the most of its -short duration, man improvidently throws it away, as of no value; or -suppresses all apprehension of the future, by rushing headlong into -the wildest excesses of dissipation and crime. This is sometimes -exemplified in the sailor. When perils thicken around and death stares -him in the face, instead of summoning all his powers into action, -and bravely contending to the last, he attempts to shut his eyes -upon impending ruin, by stupifying the body, and ignobly surrenders -life without a struggle. On no other principle, can I account for -the excesses of New-Orleans. In its best estate, it is emphatically -a place of disease and death. Its atmosphere is pestiferous. It is -felt so to be, and so considered by its citizens. One might suppose, -amid the ravages of disease and death, a man would think seriously and -live soberly. That if his days were to be very few, he would make them -all count, and tell to the greatest advantage. But the inhabitants of -New-Orleans, instead of attempting to deprive death of his power, are -enlisted on his side--they put poisoned arrows in his quiver, and add -new terrors to his name! The sanctions of law and religion are set at -nought, the Sabbath profaned, and they give themselves up to hilarity, -dissipation and crime. Is this denied? The fact is too apparent and -notorious, successfully to be concealed or denied. Could the many -victims of debauchery and crime speak, they might "unfold a tale" that -would cause "the hair of the flesh to stand up," and make the boldest -turn pale. Shall I be asked to particularize? Take the Criminal Code, -and there read its long list of enormities and crimes. - -Censures are painful, and comparisons are deemed invidious; but I must -say New-Orleans does not show that order, neatness and sobriety, found -in other large cities of the Union. Murders, robberies, thefts and -riots, are too common hardly to elicit a passing notice. Man here seems -to have become reckless of life. It is taken and given for "trifles -light as air," with an indifference truly astonishing. The police is -inefficient or shamefully negligent.--The authorities of the city -appear to stand aloof, and see the populace physically and morally -wallowing in the mire. It does appear to me, that if all in authority, -and all the virtuous portion of the citizens would brace themselves to -the work, the city might be greatly improved in health and in morals. -Let the strong arm of the law be put forth fearlessly--let the streets -be cleared of mud and filth, and the gutters of their putrid water--let -the police be active and take into custody the disorderly knaves and -vagabonds--let gambling houses be put down, and Sunday theatres and -circuses be suppressed, and New-Orleans would wear a different aspect. -Then might its streets be walked without fear of life or limb; and the -great wealth flowing in, by canal, railroad and river, be fully enjoyed. - -This may be thought by some to be an exaggerated account of the city. -For the honor of our country and of human nature, I wish it might be. -But it is, indeed, too true; and whoever happens to visit it, that -places a decent value upon life, or the goods of this life, will be -glad, like me, to escape without the injury or loss of either. Although -the vessel I came in was robbed of money and wearing apparel; one of -its sailors knocked down and his money taken from him; and a companion -of mine had his pocket book cut from his pocket; yet, I fortunately -escaped. I could not, however, feel at ease among such a set of -plunderers and robbers. - -I am fully aware, that a large portion of the populace is made up of -all nations, tongues and languages; that their residence here is often -transient; that many enormities are incidental to all large cities of -such a mixed population; and that the many worthy citizens ought not to -be held responsible for all the crimes that may be committed, unless -they make themselves accessory to them, by indifferently looking on, -and taking no energetic measure to prevent them. But it does appear to -me they are culpably negligent in this particular. - -The city authorities need not sanction crime, by licensing gambling -houses and houses of ill-fame. By so doing, they take from themselves -the power of frowning upon crime, or of effectually punishing the -criminal; but leave him to assume an unblushing boldness in society, -not elsewhere witnessed, that is truly alarming. If crime may not be -entirely prevented, it can be rendered disgraceful; and those who have -a decent respect for the opinion of mankind, if they have none for -themselves, will then be deterred from committing evil. But as long as -New-Orleans is believed to be a place, where crimes may be committed -with impunity, and without incurring the censure or disapprobation -of its citizens; so long will it be the general haunt for the knaves -and vagabonds of the Union, and of the world.--They will centre here; -give countenance and support to each other; draw within their deadly -grasp the unsuspecting, the vicious and the idle; and, like the rolling -snow-ball, at every impulse enlarge their circle, and gain additional -force and power. - -It is time, high time for all the sober minded and well disposed to -awake, look about them, and see their true condition. Theirs is the -sleep of death. Like Jonah of old, they slumber amid the whirlwind -and storm. New-Orleans needs reform; and in a righteous cause, small -means may effect much. Ten men may chase a thousand. Can the result be -doubtful? - - ----"Our doubts are traitors - And make us lose the good we oft might win, - By fearing to attempt." - -But I have done with the health and moral condition of New-Orleans. I -am told it has improved, and is improving. And yet there is room--an -ample field for the philanthropist to exercise the utmost stretch of -his powers, to improve the physical and moral condition of its citizens. - -A particular description of the city is not necessary. Its favorable -location for foreign and domestic trade, and vast resources, are well -known. One thing was new to me. It contains about half a dozen large -cotton presses, entirely occupied in compressing bales of cotton. -Those intended for a foreign market, are made to occupy one half of -their original space; so that a vessel can carry double the quantity -it otherwise might. The large number of bales shipped from this port, -makes this an extensive business. The charge for compressing is -seventy-five cents a bale. Bales designed for the northern ports, do -not undergo this operation, but are shipped as they come from the hands -of the planter. - -New-Orleans has three extensive markets; two for flesh, and one for -vegetables. I walked through them all, and thought the city was -abundantly supplied with provisions, and of a good quality. Although it -was January, the vegetable market was supplied with melons, green peas, -radishes, lettuce, &c. And boats frequently landed, with cart loads of -oranges, fresh from the trees. Fish are neither abundant nor of a fine -flavor. - -On the opposite side of the river, are the shipyards; but they seem -to be more occupied in repairs, than in building new vessels. Here is -a small village of a dozen houses, a grog shop and a tavern. A steam -ferry boat constantly plies across the river, and appears to have a -plenty of business. - -The city is connected with lake Pontchartrain, by a canal for small -vessels, and a railroad. The distance is five miles. Steamboats -regularly run from the end of the railroad, to Mobile and other -ports. New-Orleans has no wharves. It would be more convenient in -loading vessels to have them; but they cannot be built on a foundation -sufficiently firm to withstand the strong current of the Mississippi. A -few years ago a wharf was built; but it was soon undermined, and sunk -in the stream. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - - -After remaining in the city four days, I procured a passage on board a -brig bound to Boston, and sailed down the river. In about two miles, -we passed the nunnery--a pleasant looking building, surrounded by an -extensive grove of orange trees. Five miles from the city, we came to -the famous battle ground, where Gen. Jackson, and his brave associates -"planted a British colony." But this is a matter of history. All the -indications of a battle now remaining, are scars of balls on one or two -trees. - -The large plantations, on both sides of the river, were all alive -with negroes, cutting cane and transporting it to the steam mills -to make sugar. It appears to me, that slavery sits lighter on the -negro race, than it would on any other human beings.--They are, -generally, cheerful, and appear to be inclined to make the best of -their situation. Much injustice, and many wrongs have been done to the -African race. They were torn from their homes, their friends, and their -country--carried to a distant land, and sold to hopeless, irremediable -slavery. The original kidnappers have much to answer for. - -But the case is now somewhat changed. Neither the masters nor -the slaves, now upon the stage, are the parties to the original -transaction. Slavery has existed for a long series of years; and the -present owners of slaves obtained possession of them either by descent, -or by purchase. They came into their possession, slaves; they did not -change their condition. The only fault, therefore, they are justly -chargeable with, is the continuance of slavery.--How far culpable -the slaveholder may be in this particular, I shall not undertake to -decide, any more than I would the degree of guilt justly chargeable to -a Mussulman, for believing Mahomet to be a true prophet. - -In all the publications and lectures which I have seen and heard upon -slavery, it appears to me, that in regard to the present owners of -slaves, the subject is not viewed in its true light. Slavery is stated -to be a great evil; and therefore, slaveholders are great criminals. -However well this may sound in logic, it does not sound well in morals. -But there is another inference drawn from the premises--that it is the -duty of the inhabitants in the non-slaveholding States, to get up a -crusade against the slaveholders. Not with swords and guns to be sure; -but to give them a bad name, render them odious in the estimation of -mankind, and to continue a general warfare upon their characters. This -is, indeed, the worst kind of warfare. Better take property or life; -for what of value has a man left when deprived of his "good name?" To -this, I shall be answered, that it is proper to call things by their -right names--a spade ought to be called a spade; and a criminal ought -to be called a criminal. So far as it applies to slavery, I have two -plain replies to make. In the first place, it is assuming too much to -call a slaveholder a criminal, under the peculiar circumstances of the -case; and secondly, if the fact were so, it is not always good policy -to bring accusations against an individual, if the object be to reform -him. - -It is a good maxim in law, and in religion too, that even the truth is -only to be spoken from a good motive and a justifiable end. For the -peace and well-being of society, facts are not to be stated, merely -to outrage the feelings of another, and to gratify the spleen of the -speaker. Now, I would respectfully ask, what good can come of picking -up all the tales concerning cruelty to slaves whether true or false, -and proclaiming them in the most imposing form upon the house top, to -a non-slaveholding audience? Every new case of cruelty is seized upon -with avidity, and exultingly paraded before the public. This looks a -little too pharisaical. 'Lord I thank thee that I am not as other men -are; nor like unto these wicked slaveholders,' seems to beam from some -men's countenances. - -Is it not in accordance with the christian religion, if a brother -offend, to go _privately to him_, and tell him his fault? Now, if the -object be to emancipate the slaves, _go to the slaveholder himself_, -and endeavor to satisfy _him_ that slavery in itself is evil; and, on -a view of the whole ground, it is safe, practicable, and beneficial to -the slaves to be set free.--To the objection, that it would be unsafe -to go among slaveholders for such a purpose, I reply, that missionaries -are sent among the Indians of the West, the heathen of the East, and -in the islands of the sea; and can it be deemed more dangerous to -go among the slaveholding citizens of the United States, than among -them? It cannot be pretended. The fact is a man may travel through -the slaveholding States with perfect safety, provided he carry the -deportment of a gentleman, and discuss the subject of slavery, as all -such subjects ought to be, in a decent and respectful manner. - -Of this, I cannot doubt, from my own experience in the matter. During -a residence of three years in a slaveholding State, and in my various -excursions among the planters, I uniformly found hospitable and kind -treatment; and a readiness to discuss the subject of slavery with the -same freedom that they would any other. - -It would be a very good plan for our lecturers on slavery, to travel -through the southern States, and see for themselves the true condition -of the master and slave. Their censures of their southern brethren -might be softened down a little; and they would sometimes feel more -inclined to pity than upbraid. They would find the emancipation of -slaves not new, or unthought of, by the people of the South; that it is -a subject, which has engaged their anxious thoughts, and caused much -private and public discussion. The southerners are more willing to -emancipate their slaves, than our northern people generally suppose; -but the great question is, how can it with safety be done? Some of our -northern people would decide this off hand. Only say "_be free_," and -it is done. But the slaveholder believes, there are many things to be -taken into consideration--self preservation, good order of society and -the condition of the emancipated slave, are all to be regarded and -weighed, before freedom is granted. - -But I believe the slaveholders do injustice to the character of the -negroes in one particular. If they were all emancipated to-day, I -believe there would be no attempts made to murder the whites, as has -been supposed. They are naturally a friendly, confiding race--neither -ungrateful, nor insensible to kind treatment. When they have a good -master, and there are many such, they become very much attached to him; -and would unhesitatingly, risk their lives in his defence. - -I have been in the fields, where hundreds of slaves were at work, and -conversed with them.--They appeared to be well clothed and fed, and had -an easy task. I thought them to be as lively, gay and happy as any set -of beings on earth. - -They are very fond of music, and display a good deal of ingenuity, in -adapting songs to their various kinds of work and recreations. Many a -night, I have raised my window, sat down and listened for hours, to the -melody of their voices, in singing their harvest songs, around a pile -of corn. - -But the danger lies, in turning loose upon the world, a race of beings, -without houses, lands, or any kind of property; who are ignorant, gay -and thoughtless, and entirely unused to provide for themselves. How -preposterous the idea! What rational man would think of it? They must -beg, steal, plunder, or starve. If the slaves be emancipated, it must -be the work of time; and provision must be made, temporarily at least, -for their support. - -But it is urged, that holding in bondage a human being, is wrong, and -therefore, he ought to be set at liberty _immediately_. A person cannot -do right, or repent of evil, too soon. As this applies to the slave, it -may be false reasoning from just premises. Although it might be wrong -for the eagle to catch the mole, and bear him aloft into the air, yet -would it be right, then to let him go, when he knew the fall would dash -him to pieces? The setting at liberty in such a case, would only be -inevitable destruction. It would therefore be right, and not _wrong_, -to retain possession, until liberty could be granted in safety. - -That many individuals are justly chargeable with cruelty to their -slaves, there can be no doubt.--Their condition is better in the old, -than in the new States. But it appeared to me, that many of the acts of -cruelty were negligently suffered by the master to be done, rather than -inflicted by him. They are too apt to entrust their servants in the -hands of ignorant overseers, who punish without judgment or mercy. - -A planter informed me, he was riding along by his field one day, and -observing the overseer was preparing to flog a negro, he rode up to -enquire into the cause of the punishment. He was informed the negro -would not work, alleging he was sick.--He asked the overseer if he -had ascertained that the negro was _not_ sick. He replied no; for he -presumed it was only a pretence to get rid of work. He went up to the -negro, examined his pulse and tongue, and found he had a high fever. He -told the negro to take a horse from the plough, and ride home, and he -would come directly and see he was properly attended to. He then turned -to the overseer, and told him he was not a suitable man to have the -care of human beings--and discharged him on the spot. - -In Texas, I saw a negro chained in a baggage wagon, for the purpose -of carrying him home to his master. He told me he ran away from him, -three months previous, and had all that time lived in the woods, and -obtained his food by hunting. He said his master was a cruel man, -flogged him unmercifully, made him work hard, and did not feed or -clothe him well. At night, an axe _happened_ to be left in the wagon, -and he liberated himself and escaped. On enquiry, I found the negro's -story to be true.--The master was all he had represented him to be, and -his conduct was generally reprobated by the people. As I was walking -on the sea shore, I again came across the negro. He recognized me at -once; came to me, and begged that I would take him with me; and said he -would willingly labor for me all the days of his life; but he could not -return to his master. This I could not do; but was obliged to leave the -negro to his fate. - -There are many hardships and cruelties incidental to a state of -slavery; but the cruel master is as much despised and reprobated in his -own immediate neighborhood, as elsewhere. It is now unpopular every -where, to ill-treat the slave. His condition has generally improved; -and the yoke is often made to sit so light, that it is neither felt nor -thought of. But still slavery in its mildest form is attended with many -moral, as well as physical evils; is wrong in principle, and contrary -to the spirit of our free institutions: and I earnestly hope, that this -dark spot on Freedom's bright banner may soon be blotted out forever. - -But to effect such a great object as this, will require the wisdom and -aid of the North and the South combined. Let "the North give up and -the South keep not back;" let them amicably take counsel together; and -devise some plan in which the rights, interests and feelings of all -parties are nicely balanced and duly regarded. - -But I see no way in which slavery can be abolished without the aid of -the slaveholders. This kind of property is guaranteed to them by the -supreme law of the land, and to give it up, must be a voluntary act. It -appears to me, the course things are now taking at the North, instead -of winning the aid of the South, tends directly to brace them against -emancipation. It appears to the South, as an officious interference in -their affairs, in the most offensive form. - -What would we think, if the South should employ a scavenger, to pick up -all the private and public acts of cruelty of the northern people; such -as the whipping of the boy by Arnold, the starving to death of another -by Fernald, &c. &c. &c.; and then, set up a press, expressly to blazon -forth these cruelties; and hire itinerant lecturers to go about and -proclaim to a southern audience, in the highest strains of impassioned -eloquence, the wickedness, corruptions and enormities of the citizens -of the North! And say, they "had waited forty years" for the northern -people to reform themselves; which was time enough, and they would -wait no longer. They, therefore, were justified in holding them up to -the scorn and reproach of all human kind! When the North knew, and all -the world knew, they were no better than they should be at home; that -they had work of reform enough near at hand; and that they had no legal -right to interfere, and could have no legal action upon the subject. -And although the avowed object was the reform of the northern people, -yet they kept aloof from them, and hurled their poisoned arrows at a -distance, alleging that they might in their patriotic zeal, so much -arouse their indignation, that it would be unsafe to go near them. What -would northern people say to all this! Should we say, go on, brethren! -God speed! Or should we say, this is mean, cowardly business--empty -boasting--gasconade! These people may not, indeed, be guilty of this -particular thing of which they accuse us; and that is the very reason -why they choose this subject for accusation--why they walk so proudly -erect--ring all the changes and make the most of it. It is to triumph -over us, and build up themselves on our ruins. There is in truth, a -worse kind than negro slavery--when a man becomes a slave to his own -unhallowed, vindictive passions. - -Much injustice has been done the southern people. Those who -have travelled and dwelt among them, bear testimony to their -high-mindedness, kindness and hospitality. They scorn to do an act of -meanness; or to enter upon the broad field of scandal. And although -their strong sensibility may sometimes lead them into error, yet in all -the virtues which ennoble man, they might not suffer in a comparison -with the North. If we choose to bring railing accusations against -them; they may not descend to recriminate but leave us the undisputed -occupants of the ground we have chosen. And we may have the sore -mortification at last to find, we have uttered anathemas in vain; and -brought nothing to any desirable result--that we have toiled hard, and -effected nothing, but our own humiliation and disgrace. - -But I must leave the subject of negro slavery.--Perhaps I have dwelt -too long upon it already to comport with the design of this book. It is -a great and an important subject; and to do it justice would require -a volume. It is my solemn conviction however, that for the northern -people to effect any thing, towards the freedom of the African race, -much prudence must be exercised, and conciliatory measures adopted; so -as to enlist the undivided energies of the South in the great work of -emancipation. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - - -The river Mississippi, which imparts a name and character to the -great valley of the West, deserves something more than a mere passing -notice.--When the fertility and extent of the region through which it -passes, are taken into consideration, together with the magnitude of -itself and its numerous branches, it way well be pronounced the noblest -river on the face of the globe. - -Contrary to the general analogy of other large rivers, it directs its -course from north to south. It rises in about the forty-eighth degree -of north latitude, in a region having the aspect of a vast marshy -valley. Its commencement is in many streams, issuing principally from -wild rice lakes, and proceeds but a short distance before it becomes -a large river. Sometimes, it moves silently and imperceptibly along, -over a wide and muddy channel--at others, it glides briskly onward, -over a sandy bottom, its waters almost as transparent as air--and again -it becomes compressed to a narrow channel between high and hoary -limestone cliffs, and it foams and roars, as it violently lashes the -projecting rocks, and struggles through. - -The falls of St. Anthony, following the meanders of the stream, are -three hundred miles from its source. At this place, the river is about -half a mile wide, and falls in a perpendicular and unbroken sheet, -between seventeen and eighteen feet.--Above the mouth of the Missouri, -it receives many large tributaries, the most considerable of which are -the Ouisconsin and Illinois from the east, and the Des Moines, from the -west. - -A little below thirty nine degrees, comes in the mighty Missouri -from the west, which is a longer stream, and carries more water than -the Mississippi itself. This is the largest tributary stream in the -world; and from the facts, that it has a longer course, carries more -water than the Mississippi, and gives its own peculiar character to -the stream below their junction, many have supposed it ought to have -given its name to the united stream and to the valley. In opposition -to this claim, it may be stated, that the valley of the Missouri, in -the grand scale of conformation, appears to be secondary to that of the -Mississippi--it has not the general direction of that river, but joins -it nearly at right angles--the Mississippi valley is wider than that -of the Missouri, and the river is broader, and the direction of the -valley and river is the same above and below the junction. From these -considerations, it appears to me, that the Mississippi rightfully -gives its name to the united stream, and to the great valley, from its -source to the sea. - -The Missouri rises in the Rocky Mountains, nearly in the same parallel -with the Mississippi. It is formed by three branches, which unite near -the base of the principal ranges of mountains, which severally bear the -names of Jefferson, Gallatin and Madison. The head waters of some of -these, are so near to those of the Columbia on the other side of the -mountains, that a person may drink of the waters of each, in travelling -not more than a mile. After the junction of these three streams, the -river continues on a foaming mountain torrent. It then spreads into a -broader stream, and comparatively of a gentler current, and is full of -islands. - -The river, then, passes through what are called "The Gates of the -Rocky Mountains." The river appears to have torn for itself a passage -through the mountain. For the distance of six miles, perpendicular -cliffs of dark colored rock, rise twelve hundred feet above the stream -which washes their base! The chasm is not more than three hundred feet -wide, and the deep, foaming waters rush through, with the speed of a -race-horse. In no situation in life, does man so keenly feel his own -imbecility and nothingness, as when viewing such terrible results of -a war between the elements of nature. This is the most imposing and -grand spectacle of the kind, to be found on the globe; and in the -deep solitude of the wilderness, its aspect is peculiarly awful and -terrific. The mountain scenery on the Hudson near West Point; and -the passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge, sink into utter -insignificance, when compared to the rush of the Missouri, through "The -Gates of the Rocky Mountains."--The mountains here, have an aspect of -inexpressible loneliness and grandeur. Their summits are covered with -a stinted growth of pines and cedars, among which, are seen mountain -sheep, bounding along at heights apparently inaccessible. - -For the distance of seventeen miles, the stream then becomes almost a -continued cataract. The whole perpendicular descent in this distance, -is three hundred and sixty-two feet. The first fall is ninety-eight -feet--the second, nineteen--the third, forty-seven--and the fourth, -twenty-six. The river continues rapid, a number of miles below; it then -assumes its distinctive character--sweeps briskly along in regular -curves, by limestone bluffs, boundless prairies and dense forests, -to its junction with the Mississippi. It has a current of four miles -an hour; but is navigable for steamboats the distance of twenty-five -hundred miles. - -The tributaries of Missouri are many important and large rivers; but -our space will not permit a particular description of them. The most -considerable of them, are the Yellow Stone, La Platte and the Osage. -The Yellow Stone rises in the same range of mountains with the main -river, to which it has many points of resemblance. It enters the -Missouri from the south, eighteen hundred miles above its mouth, and is -eight hundred and fifty yards wide. It is a broad deep river, sixteen -hundred miles in length, boatable, one thousand; and at the junction, -appears to be the larger stream. Its shores are heavily timbered, -its bottoms are wide, and of the richest soil. Its entrance has been -selected by the government, as a suitable spot for a military post, and -an extensive settlement. - -The La Platte also rises in the Rocky mountains, enters from the south, -and, measured by its meanders, has a course of two thousand miles. It -is nearly a mile wide at its mouth; but, as its name imports, is a -shallow stream, and not navigable, except at the high floods. - -The Osage enters from the south and is a large and important stream of -the Missouri. It is boatable for six hundred miles, and its head waters -interlock with those of the Arkansas. - -The Gasconade enters from the south also, is not a large river, but -is boatable for sixty miles, and is important for having on its banks -extensive pine forests, from which St. Louis and St. Charles are -supplied with lumber. - -The Missouri is a longer river than the Mississippi, measured from its -highest source to the Gulf of Mexico; and although it carries less than -half the breadth of that stream, it brings down a larger quantity of -water. It is at all times turbid; and its prodigious length of course, -impetuous current, the singular and wild character of the country -through which it runs, impart to it a natural grandeur, truly sublime. - -In latitude thirty-six and a half degrees, the Mississippi receives -from the east, the celebrated and beautiful Ohio. This is, by far, the -largest eastern tributary of the Mississippi; and at the junction, -and a hundred miles above, it is as wide as the parent stream. If -the Mississippi rolls along its sweeping and angry waters, in more -majesty--the Ohio far exceeds it in beauty, and in its calm, unbroken -course. No river in the world moves along the same distance, in such -an uniform, smooth and peaceful current. The river is formed by the -junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela at Pittsburgh. The Ohio, -at this place, is about six hundred yards wide, and it immediately -assumes a broad and beautiful aspect which continues in its whole -course, to the Mississippi. Beautiful and romantic streams come in, at -nearly equal distances--its bottoms are of an extraordinary depth and -fertility--and the configuration on its banks, has all that softness, -grandeur and variety, still changing and recurring in such endless -combinations, as to render a voyage down it, at all times pleasant and -delightful. From Pittsburgh to the Mississippi, the distance is eleven -hundred and fifty miles; and between these points, are more than a -hundred islands; some of which, are of exquisite beauty, and afford -most pleasant situations for cottages and farms. - -The valley of the Ohio is deep, varying from two to ten miles; and is -bounded in the whole distance by bluffs, sometimes towering sublimely -from the river bank; at others, receding two or three miles from them. -Beyond these, are a singular line of hills, more or less precipitous, -which are familiarly called the "Ohio hills." The bottoms of the Ohio -are heavily timbered, and there are no where on its banks the slightest -indications of prairie. - -It would be difficult to decide at what season of the year, the Ohio -has the most interesting and beautiful appearance--in the spring, -when its high floods sweep along with irresistible power, and the -red-bud and other early blossoms enliven its banks--or in autumn, -when it passes quietly along, showing its broad and clean sand bars, -and its pebbly bottom, through waters transparent as air--and when -the withering leaves of the forest are painted in golden and scarlet -colors along its shores. It is at all times, an interesting river, and -probably, no other stream in the world can vie with it, both in utility -and beauty. - -Below the Ohio, the most important tributaries of the Mississippi, are -White river, Arkansas and Red Rivers--all entering the stream from the -west. White river rises in the Black mountains, which separate its -waters from those of the Arkansas; and after traversing a distance of -twelve hundred miles, enters the Mississippi by a mouth, nearly four -hundred yards wide. The Arkansas next to the Missouri, the largest -tributary from the west, is twenty-five hundred miles in length, and -is five hundred yards wide at its mouth. Its waters are at all times -turbid, and when the river is full, are of a dark flame color. - -Eighty miles below Natchez, comes in Red River; and although it is not -generally so wide as the Arkansas, yet it has as long a course, and -probably, carries as much water. Its waters are always turbid, and of -a deeper red than those of the Arkansas. After receiving Red River, -the Mississippi carries its greatest volume of water. This, however, -continues but for a short distance. Three or four miles below the -mouth of Red River, and on the same side, is the first outlet of the -Mississippi. This is called Atchafalaya; and probably it carries off -as much water as the Red River brings in.--But one small river enters -the Mississippi below its first outlet. This is on the east side, and -is called the Bayou Sarah. The only eastern outlet is a short distance -below Baton Rouge. This is called Ibberville, and it passes off the -waters of the Mississippi into lake Maurepas. On the west side are -two more considerable outlets, called Bayou Plaquemine, and Bayou La -Fourche. The Mississippi, then, passes on by New-Orleans, between -unbroken banks, and discharges the remainder of its waters, through -four mouths, into the Gulf of Mexico. - -The Mississippi is navigable for steamboats to the falls of St. -Anthony--a distance of twenty-two hundred miles. These falls, although -they have not the slightest claim to be compared with the celebrated -Niagara, in sublimity and grandeur; yet they are interesting and -impressive in the solitude and loneliness of the wilderness. As the -traveller gazes at the romantic scenery around him, and listens to the -solemn roar of the falls, as it echoes along the shores of the river, -and dies away in the distant forest; a thrilling story is told him -of the love and tragical end of a young Dacota Indian woman, whose -husband had deserted her, and taken another squaw for his wife. Being a -woman of keen sensibility and unconquerable attachment, in a moment of -anguish and despair, she took her little children with her in a canoe, -and chanted her song of love and broken vows, until they were swept -over the falls, and engulfed in the waters below.--The Indians are too -fond of romance, not to make the most of such an affecting incident as -this.--They believe her spirit still hovers round the spot, and that -her fair form is seen on bright sunny mornings, pressing her babes to -her bosom, and that her voice is heard, mourning the inconstancy of her -husband, amid the roaring of the waters! - -Below these falls, the river swells to half a mile in width and becomes -a placid, gentle and clear stream, with clean sand bars, and wide and -fertile bottoms. There is a rapid of nine miles, commencing just below -the entrance of the river Des Moines. This impedes the progress of -large steamboats, during low stages of the water. Below this rapid, the -Mississippi obtains its full width, being a mile from bank to bank; and -it carries this width to the mouth of the Missouri. - -The Mississippi, above the junction, is a more beautiful stream even -than the Ohio, somewhat more gentle in its current and a third wider. -At every little distance, the traveller finds a beautiful island; and -sometimes two or three, parallel to each other. Altogether, in its -alternate bluffs and prairies--the calmness and transparency of its -waters--the vigor and grandeur of the vegetation on its banks--it has -an aspect of amenity and magnificence, which does not belong in the -same extent to any other stream. - -The Missouri enters by a mouth not more than half a mile wide; and the -medial width of the united stream to the entrance of the Ohio, is about -three quarters of a mile, from thence to the sea the medial width is a -mile. This mighty tributary, rather diminishes than adds to its width; -but it perceptibly increases its depth; and what is to be regretted, -wholly changes its character. The Mississippi is the gentle, clear and -beautiful stream no more. It borders more on the terrible and sublime, -than the serene and beautiful, from the junction to its mouth. The -Mississippi flows gently onward, at the rate of not more than two miles -an hour--the turbid Missouri pours down upon it its angry flood, at -the rate of four miles an hour, and adds its own speed and peculiar -character to the united stream. The Mississippi then becomes a turbid -and furious mass of sweeping waters; having a boiling current, sliding -banks and jagged shores. - -A person, who merely takes a cursory view of the river, hardly forms -an adequate idea of the amount of water it carries. Were he to descend -from the falls of St. Anthony, and behold the Mississippi swallowing up -the mighty Missouri, the broad Ohio, the St. Francis, White, Arkansas, -and Red River, together with a hundred other large rivers of great -length of course and depth of waters, without apparently increasing -its size, he begins to estimate rightly the increased depth, and vast -volume of water, that must roll on, in its deep channel to the sea. - -In the spring floods, the usual rise of the river above the mouth of -the Missouri, is fifteen feet; from that point to the mouth of the -Ohio, it is twenty-five feet; below the Ohio, it is fifty feet; and, -sometimes, even sixty. In the region of Natchez, the flood begins -to subside. At Baton Rouge, it seldom exceeds thirty feet; and at -New-Orleans it is only twelve. This declination of the flood, towards -the mouth of the river, is caused by the many outlets which take off -much of its surplus water, and conduct it in separate channels to the -sea. Were it not for this free egress of the Mississippi floods, the -whole country below Baton Rouge, would become too much inundated to be -habitable. - -Respecting the face of the country through which the river passes, it -may be remarked, that, from its source to the falls of St. Anthony, it -moves on through wild rice lakes, limestone bluffs and craggy hills; -and occasionally, through deep pine forests and beautiful prairies. For -more than a hundred miles above the mouth of the Missouri, it would be -difficult to convey a just idea of the beauty of the prairies which -skirt the stream. They strike the eye as a perfect level; covered, in -summer, with a luxuriant growth of tall grass, interwoven with a great -variety of beautiful flowers; without a tree or shrub in their whole -extent. When this deep prairie comes in to the river, on one side, -a heavy timbered bottom bounds it on the other.--From the smallest -elevation, the sweep of the bluffs, generally corresponding to the -curves of the river, are seen in the distance, mixing with the blue -arch of the sky. - -The medial width of the river bottoms, above the mouth of the Missouri, -is six miles; thence, to the entrance of the Ohio, it is about eight -miles; and from this point to New-Orleans, the Mississippi swamp varies -from thirty to fifty miles. The last stone bluffs, seen in descending -the river, are thirty miles above the mouth of the Ohio. - -Below the Ohio, the high banks are generally composed of a reddish -clay. The river almost invariably, keeps the nearest to the eastern -shore, leaving much the largest portion of its swamp on its west side; -but, sometimes, on the east, the river is about twenty miles from the -high bank on that side. It continually moves in a circle; alternately -sweeping to the right, and then to the left. These sections of -circles, measured from point to point, vary from six to twelve miles; -but it sometimes makes almost a complete circle. In one instance, it -sweeps round the distance of thirty miles, and comes within a mile of -completing the circle, and meeting its own channel again. Although the -stream hurries on with the speed of a giant, yet it does not seem to -be really in earnest to "go ahead." It appears to be more disposed to -gambol about, and display its power in its own ample bottom, than to -pass directly on, to its destined port. Like an overgrown and froward -child, its sportiveness is dangerous and destructive. It makes terrible -havoc with every thing with which it comes in contact. It tears up -large quantities of earth in one place, and deposites it in another. -It undermines its own bank, and lets acres of stately forest trees -slide into its deep channel--it wears away its deep bends, so as to -make its course still more and more circuitous--and again, as if it -were tired of its own sportiveness in harrassing the forest, it cuts -through the small segment of a circle remaining, leaves a long bend of -still water, and its jaded shores at rest. The river, in its serpentine -course, hits the high bank at twelve different places, on the eastern -shore. These are, at the Iron banks, Chalk banks, the three Chickasaw -bluffs, Memphis, Walnut hills, Grand and Petit gulf, Natchez, Loftus -heights, and Baton Rouge. At only one place, it comes in contact with -the high bluff on the western side; and this is at the St. Francis -hills. - -Although the river is a mile in width, yet it is so serpentine in its -course, that a person travelling upon it, can see but a few miles -ahead. The strongest current is next the concave shore; and here also -is the deepest water. A third part of the river measured in a direct -line across it, would average eighty feet in depth, from thence it -grows more and more shoal to the other shore. - -In the spring flood, the Mississippi overflows the whole bottom, so -that then, it becomes a stream fifty miles in width. It shows a breadth -of a mile only, and the remainder is concealed from the eye, by the -dense forest which broods over it. The mud and sand, brought down by -the flood, deposites itself the most freely, near the river; so that -the highest part of the bottom will be next the stream. In the time of -the flood, the water barely covers the immediate shore of the river; -from thence the water becomes deeper and deeper towards the bluff -which bounds the bottom. The depth of the flood, then, may be thus -stated--the channel, one hundred and thirty feet--its immediate bank -barely covered with water, and next to the bluffs, which may be twenty -miles from the channel, from twelve to twenty feet in depth. When -the flood in a measure subsides, the sad havoc its waters have made -begins to appear. Huge piles of flood wood, wrecks of flat boats, and -occasionally, of animals, are thrown together in one promiscuous mass. -The stream is filled with snags and sawyers. And the destruction of its -immediate banks is still going on. The deep and solemn sound of land -slips are often heard. Acres of the stately forest are precipitated -into the river, new channels are made, many islands are formed; and -the steamboat pilot, who had become a complete master of the intricate -mazes of the channel, finds, that he must learn his lesson over again. - -All of the hundred rivers that form the Mississippi, at the time of -high water, are more or less turbid; but at low water some of them are -clear.--The Upper Mississippi is quite transparent, but its waters are -slightly of a blackish color. The Missouri is at all times turbid. It -is of a whitish color, resembling water mixed with fresh ashes; and it -gives its own color to the stream below its mouth. The Ohio is clear, -but its waters have the appearance of being slightly tinged with green. -The Arkansas and Red River are at all times as turbid as the Missouri, -but their waters are of a bright redish color. After the Mississippi -has received these two rivers, it loses something of its whiteness, -and becomes slightly tinged with red. - -The Mississippi, in show of surface, will hardly compare with the St. -Lawrence; but, undoubtedly, it carries the greatest mass of water, -according to its width, of any river on the face of the globe.--From -the large quantity of earth it holds in suspension, and continually -deposites along its banks, it will always be confined within a narrow -and deep channel. Were it a clear stream, it would soon scoop out for -itself a wide channel, from bluff to bluff. In common with most of its -great tributaries, it widens as it ascends; being wider above the mouth -of the Missouri, with a tenth part of its water, than it is in the -region of New-Orleans. In the same manner, Arkansas and Red River are -wider, a thousand miles up their streams, than they are at their mouths. - -No thinking mind can view with indifference, the mighty Mississippi, -as it sweeps round its bends from point to point, and rolls on its -resistless wave, through dark forests, in lonely grandeur to the -sea. The hundred shores laved by its waters--the long course of its -tributaries; some of which are already the abodes of cultivation, -and others pursuing an immense course without a solitary dwelling of -civilized man--the numerous tribes of savages that now roam on their -borders--the affecting and imperishable traces of generations that are -gone, leaving no other memorials of their existence, but their stately -mounds, which rise at frequent intervals along the valley--the dim, -but glorious anticipations of the future--these are subjects of deep -thought and contemplation, inseparably connected with a view of this -wonderful river. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - - -We were three days sailing down the river. Just at night the pilot came -aboard, took us over the bar at the southwest pass, and we put out to -sea, with a strong fair wind from the northwest. The muddy waters of -the Mississippi are seen far out to sea, even after you lose sight of -the land. There was another passenger besides myself; and the violent -rolling of the vessel soon made us dreadfully seasick. This, with me, -lasted but three days; but the other passenger was sick during the -whole voyage, and suffered incalculable pain and distress. - -There are many things disagreeable to a landsman in a voyage at sea. -And in the first place, the rolling of the vessel. This is always -disagreeable, but often it is so vehement that you cannot stand, walk -or sit without much caution and trouble. While food is eaten, you must -hold on to the plate with one hand, and wield the knife with the other, -and this is often done at the imminent hazard of "marring the corners" -of the mouth. Sometimes, in spite of all exertion, a sudden lurch will -throw you off the balance, and you get a bowl of hot coffee in your -lap. And then, at night, you are tossed to and fro in the berth, so -that you cannot soundly sleep, and arise in the morning more fatigued -than when you laid down. - -And this motion of the vessel produces seasickness--an affliction -exceedingly grievous to be borne. I had been seasick ten or a dozen -times in my life, and this was the third time on my present tour; and I -tried all the precautionary means I had ever heard of, but without any -beneficial effect. Could any effectual remedy be discovered, it would -save a vast amount of human distress. - -The shoreless ocean, seen day after day, affords but a dull and barren -prospect to a landsman. The only variety seems to be, when a storm -arises; and then it puts on such a terrific form, that the sublimity -of the scene cannot be fully enjoyed. We had a severe blow off the -coast of Florida; but the shivering of sails, and the mountains of foam -dashing over our frail bark, caused fear to predominate over every -other sensation. - -The complete and rapid change of the scene at sea, is sometimes very -striking. We would be quietly sailing along with a gentle breeze, just -enough to fill the sails, and keep the vessel in motion on her course; -when all at once a violent squall arises, suddenly strikes the ship, -whizzes through the rigging, fills the sails to bursting, and drives -her rapidly on, through billows of foam. The captain stands upon the -quarter-deck, gives his orders through the speaking trumpet--the -sailors run aloft, cling to the yards and take in sail. The contrast -is indeed great. One moment, all is calm and quiet; the next, all is -uproar and confusion; and could one feel entirely at ease, it would be -a great source of amusement, during a long voyage. - -But a sailor's life is one of care, hardship, watchfulness and anxiety. -Our captain would walk the deck for hours, anxiously watching the whole -circle of the horizon--the appearance of the clouds and the direction -of the wind. Of a sudden, he would stop short, call all hands, order -the light sails taken in, and close-reefed those that remained; when -to my unpractised eye, there was no cause of alarm, or appearance of a -change of weather. But the result would invariably show the correctness -of his opinion. In no one instance, did he prematurely take in sail, -nor did the squall ever come and "catch him napping." - -The third day out, from the mouth of the river, we saw the highlands of -Cuba. On the fifth, the Sand Key lighthouse, on the Florida shore. We -saw no other land on the voyage, except a small island on the Little -Bahama Banks, until we came in full view of the village of Chatham, -fifty miles south of Boston. The wind became fair, the weather thick -and rainy. The next day, twenty miles out, the pilot came aboard, and -we run safely into Boston harbor. We had been just twenty-five days -from New-Orleans--a distance of twenty-five hundred miles. We had -experienced all the varieties of a sea voyage--light winds, calms, -strong breezes and storms--and now, with no small degree of pleasure, I -again set my foot on _terra firma_. - -The following day, I took the stage and arrived home at Exeter; having -been absent about five months, and having travelled by land and -water the distance of eight thousand miles. I passed over the whole -route without arms, and at no time did I feel the need of any. I was -uniformly well treated; and often received kind attentions, and formed -many acquaintances whom I left with regret, and shall remember with -gratitude. - -The weather had generally been mild and pleasant. The greatest -indication of cold weather I found on the whole trip, was a slight -frost. On returning at once to the region of severe cold weather, I -found it exceedingly oppressive. Our northern winters are indeed long, -severe and crabbed; and were the people as crabbed as the climate, -life would become altogether intolerable. But the southern and western -climate is far more bland and mild, and much more grateful to the -feelings, than ours; and this, together with the facility of obtaining -all the necessaries and conveniences of life, induces me to believe -that a much greater amount of comfort and happiness may there be -enjoyed. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX. - - -And now, from this spot, I may be allowed to take a hasty, -retrospective glance at the great WESTERN COUNTRY. It stretches from -the Gulf of Mexico to the northern limits of the United States; and -from the Alleghany, to the Rocky mountains--a distance of three -thousand miles; showing a broad surface of earth, equal in extent to -the Atlantic ocean itself. Between these bold and primitive barriers, -a country is exhibited, every where bearing the marks of a secondary -formation. The valleys, bluffs and hills--the regular lamina of stone, -strata of marine shells,--and, indeed, all the physical aspects of the -country, wear the appearance of once having been the bed of a vast -lake, or an inland sea. - -From this circumstance of its recent formation, and the large -quantities of decomposed lime stone mixed with the soil, result another -attribute of this valley--its character of uncommon fertility. It is -not indeed every where alike fertile. There are here, as else where, -infinite varieties of soil, from the richest alluvions, to the most -sterile flint knobs--from the impervious cane brakes, to the sandy -pine hills. There are, too, towards the Rocky mountains, large tracts -that have a surface of sterile sands, or covered only with a scanty -vegetation of weeds and coarse grass. But of the country in general, -the most cursory observer must have remarked, that, compared with lands -in other regions apparently of the same character, these show marks of -singular fertility. The most ordinary oak lands, will bring successive -crops of Indian corn and wheat, without manuring, and with but little -care of cultivation. The pine lands, which appear so sterile to the -eye, have in many places, produced good crops for years, without the -aid of manure. - -There is another remarkable trait in the soil of this valley--its -power to support vegetation under the severest drought. It is a fact -so notorious that it has become proverbial, that if there be moisture -enough to make the corn germinate and come up, there will be a good -crop, if no rain fall until harvest. The eastern emigrant witnesses -with astonishment, the steady advance of his crop to vigorous maturity, -under a pressure of drought, and a cloudless ardor of sun, that must -have parched up the fields, and destroyed vegetation at the East. - -The Alleghany mountains, which form the eastern boundary of this -great valley, are composed of many ridges, which run parallel to each -other with remarkable regularity. The middle ridge is generally the -most elevated, and separates the waters of the Atlantic, from those -that flow into the Mississippi. Soon after passing the summit of the -principal mountains, the waters of the Ohio begin to be heard, as they -dash along over a precipitous and rocky channel, seeking a spot to -escape from the craggy hills, to the plains below. - -After descending the last mountain ridge towards the valley, the -country is still a succession of high hills, generally rounded -smoothly down their sides, having more or less table land on their -summits.--Those portions of Pennsylvania and Virginia, which belong -to the Mississippi Valley; the eastern parts of Ohio, Kentucky and -Tennessee, are generally hilly, and sometimes even mountainous. In -Alabama, the hills begin to subside. The features of the country too, -begin, manifestly to change. The landscape wears a different aspect. -Instead of the oaks, whitewood and sycamore, we begin to hear the -breeze among the tops of long leaved pines.--A long succession of pine -hills and fertile valleys succeed each other; the timber becoming less -and less, until we meet the extensive prairies, or savannas of Florida. - -Approaching the lakes, the country becomes quite level. At the northern -sections of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, near the borders of the lakes, -the surface, in some places, becomes so marshy and low, as to be -covered, in winter and spring, with water from three or four inches to -a foot in depth. The eastern part of Ohio is hilly, but the western -portion sensibly becomes more and more level. The Ohio river originally -rolled on in its whole course, through an unbroken forest; but as we -approach the eastern boundary of Indiana, we begin to discover the -first indications of prairie. In the western part of the State of Ohio, -small and detached prairies are only found. In Indiana, the proportion -of prairie is far greater, and in Illinois it far exceeds the timbered -land. North of the State of Illinois, pine hills, ponds, marshes, -woodland and prairie, alternate to the head waters of the Mississippi. - -The surface of the country west of the Mississippi, is generally much -more level than the valley east of it. There are bluffs to be sure, -often high and precipitous, near the courses of the large rivers; and -some portion of the country, near the Mississippi, is covered with -flint knobs--singular hills of a conical shape, which, with a base -of not more than a third of a mile in diameter, sometimes rise to -the height of four or five hundred feet; and are covered with coarse -gravel and flint stones. There are also, as in the country between the -St. Francis and White rivers, high hills, which might well be called -mountains. A spur of the Alleghany mountains, seems to come in to the -Mississippi at the Chickasaw bluffs, and to be continued to the west -of the river, in the St. Francis hills. But between the Mississippi -and the Rocky mountains, a distance of twenty-five hundred miles, the -general surface of the country is one vast plain, probably the largest -on the face of the globe. Except the bluffs of the rivers, and flint -knobs, the whole surface is entirely free from stones. On the lower -courses of the Missouri, St. Francis, White, Arkansas and Red rivers, -we find extensive bottoms of inexhaustible fertility covered with a -dense forest; and occasionally a rich prairie, teeming with vegetation. -But as we ascend these rivers, the timber becomes less and less, until, -at last, we find the prairies coming in to the river banks. As the -traveller recedes from the narrow and fertile belt on the streams, he -finds the prairies becoming more and more dry and sterile--destitute of -wood and water, and, sometimes, of all vegetation. He finds himself on -a boundless waste of prairies; stretching out before him, far beyond -the reach of vision; and here, he may wander for days, without finding -either wood or water, and whichever way he may turn his eyes, he -beholds an ocean of grass bounding the horizon. In advancing westward, -he, at length, catches a glimpse of the Rocky mountains, pencilled -like clouds on the blue arch of the sky. These mountains rise in lofty -grandeur, twelve thousand feet above the grassy plains at their base; -and some of the peaks, are supposed to be eighteen thousand feet -above the level of the sea. They appear at a distance, to present -an unbroken front, and to form an insuperable barrier between the -Mississippi valley, and the shores of the Pacific ocean. On a nearer -inspection, they are found to be, like the Alleghany mountains composed -of a number of parallel ridges; and following up the streams, as they -escape from the mountains, tolerable paths are found to cross them. -A late traveller crossed these mountains, by following up the river -Platte to its source; and from thence, down the stream that falls into -Lake Bueneventura, on the western side. He states that the ascent was -no where any greater than on the National road, over the Cumberland -mountains. He even asserts, that the ascent was not more than three -degrees; and that nature has provided a practical and good road, quite -down to the plains of the Columbia. - -These ranges of mountains cover a wide extent of country; and here, the -principal rivers that fall into the Mississippi, have their sources. -Some of these rivers wind three or four hundred miles among the -mountains, before they find a passage to the plains below. The ranges -at the sources of the Arkansas, and extending southward towards the -Gulf of Mexico, bear the name of the Masserne mountains. A single peak -of this ridge, seen at immense distances over the adjacent plains, -rising into the blue atmosphere above the region of clouds, is called -mount Pike. Near this mountain, the Colorado of the Pacific, the Rio -del Norte of the Gulf of Mexico, the Yellow Stone of the Missouri, and -the Arkansas and Red rivers of the Mississippi, have their sources. -Mount Pike must therefore, be the highest point of land of this part of -North America. - -The Rocky mountains are at present too little known to be accurately -and particularly described. They are hundreds of miles beyond the -limits of cultivation, and the usual haunts of civilized man. They -will for ages only attract the gaze and astonishment of wandering -hunters, and adventurous travellers, who will thread the mazes of their -deep gullies, as they pursue their journey to the western sea. Many of -the ranges, and peaks are black, ragged and precipitous; and around -their bases are strewn huge fragments of rock, detached by earthquakes -and the hand of time. From this iron bound and precipitous character, -they probably received the appellation of "Rocky mountains." - -The general surface of the Mississippi Valley may be classed under -three distinct heads--the dense forest, the barrens, or oak openings, -and the prairies. In the first division, every traveller must have -remarked, as soon as he descends to this valley, a grandeur in the -form and size of the trees, a depth of verdure in the foliage, and a -magnificent prodigality of growth, that distinguishes this, from every -other country. The trees are large and straight, and rise aloft in -stately columns, free from branches, to a great height. In the rich -bottoms, they are generally wreathed with a drapery of ivy and grape -vines; and these vines have sometimes trunks as large as the human -body. Frequently, these forests are as free from any undergrowth as an -orchard of apple trees. Sometimes the only shrub seen among the tall -trees, is the beautiful pawpaw, with its splendid foliage and graceful -stems. In the rich alluvions of the southern section, impenetrable -cane brakes, tangles of brambles, and a rank growth of weeds, are often -found beneath the forest trees; and their lofty branches are hung with -large festoons of Spanish moss. These are the safe retreats of the -bears, panthers, and other wild beasts of the forest. - -Such forest trees only will be noted, as are not found in our northern -climate. It may be proper to remark, that the white pine of New-England -is only found in the upper section of the Mississippi valley--the pitch -pine is found in various places on the high lands, throughout its whole -extent; although not on the banks of the streams of water. - -The cypress is seen on overflowed and swampy land from the mouth of -the Ohio to the gulf of Mexico. It is strikingly singular in its -appearance. Under its deep shade, arise a multitude of cone shaped -posts, called 'cypress knees.' They are of various sizes and heights. -The largest generally seen are about a foot in diameter at the bottom, -two or three inches at the top, and six feet in height. The bark is -smooth, and grows over the top end the same as at the sides. The -ground, in a cypress swamp, looks as though tapering posts of all -imaginable sizes had been set there at random; and are sometimes so -thick that it is difficult to ride among them. It has been supposed -that these knees are but the commencement of large trees, and there is -some reason for this belief; for the tree itself has a buttress that -looks exactly like an enlarged cypress knee. A full sized cypress is -ten feet in diameter at the ground, but it tapers so rapidly that in -ascending eight feet, it is not more than about two feet in diameter; -from thence, it rises in a straight smooth column, eighty feet, without -any apparent diminution of its size; it then branches off at once -in all directions, and forms a level surface of foliage at the top. -A forest of cypress looks like a scaffolding of deep green verdure -suspended in the air.--The timber is clear of knots, easily wrought, -durable, and is the most valuable timber tree in all the southern -country. - -The live oak is only found near the sea coast. It does not grow tall, -but runs out into long lateral branches, looking like an immense spread -umbrella. The leaf is small and evergreen. It bears an abundance of -acorns, which are small, long and a good deal tapering at each end. Its -timber is hard to cut, and will immediately sink in water. - -The peccan is of beautiful form and appearance, and makes excellent -timber for building and rails. It bears a round nut about an inch and a -half long and half an inch in diameter. It excels all other nuts in the -delicacy of its flavor. - -The black locust is an excellent timber tree, and is much used in the -building of steamboats. Its blossoms yield an exquisite perfume. The -white locust is similar to that of the north. - -The black walnut is a splendid tree and grows to a great size. It is -much used in finishing houses and in cabinet furniture. It produces a -nut very similar to the northern butternut; but the meat is not very -palatable. The white walnut is also plenty, as are the various kinds of -hickory. - -The sycamore is the largest tree of the western forest. One of these -trees near Marietta measures fifteen feet in diameter. Judge Tucker of -Missouri fitted up a hollow section of a sycamore for an office. - -The yellow poplar is a splendid tree and next in size to the sycamore. -Its timber is very useful for building and rails. Its blossoms are -gaudy bell-shaped cups, and the leaves are of beautiful forms. The -cotton-wood is universally found in all the southern country below -the mouth of the Ohio. It is a tree of the poplar class, and somewhat -resembles the whitewood of the more northern regions. It is a large -stately tree and sometimes measures twelve feet in diameter. One tree -has been known to make more than a thousand rails. It derives its name -from the circumstance, that when its blossoms fall, it scatters on the -ground something much resembling, in feeling and appearance, short -ginned cotton. - -The catalpa is found in the region of the cotton-wood. It is remarkable -for the great size of its deep green leaves, and its rounded tuft of -beautiful blossoms of unequalled fragrance. Its seed is contained in -a pod about two feet in length, much resembling a bean pod. As an -ornamental tree it is unrivalled. In gracefulness of form, grandeur -of its foliage, and rich, ambrosial fragrance of its blossom, it is -incomparably superior to all the trees of the western world. - -The magnolia has been much overrated, both as to the size of the tree -and blossom also. It grows up tall and slim; the largest, about two -feet in diameter; smooth whitish bark; and slightly resembling the -northern beech. Its leaves are of a deep green, small and evergreen. -Its blossom is of a pure white, much resembling, although twice the -size, of a northern pond lilly. The fragrance is indeed powerful, but -rather disagreeable. - -There are half a dozen species of laurels; the most beautiful of which, -is the laurel almond. It grows to the size of the pear tree; the leaves -resemble those of the peach; its blossoms yield a most delicious -perfume; and its foliage continues green all the year. It is found in -the valley of the Red River. - -There is a striking and beautiful tree found on the head waters of the -Washita and in the interior of Arkansas, called bow-wood, from the -circumstance that the Indians use it for bows. It bears a large fruit -of most inviting appearance, much resembling a very large orange. -But although beautiful to the eye, it is bitter to the taste. It has -large and beautiful leaves, in form and appearance much like those of -the orange, but much larger. The wood is yellow like fustic, and it -produces a similar dye. It is hard, heavy and durable, and is supposed -to be more incorruptible than live oak, mulberry, cypress, or cedar. -Above the raft on Red River, the hulk of a steamboat has been built -entirely of its timber. - -The China tree is not a native of this country, but is much cultivated -in the southern regions of the valley for ornament and shade. It has -fine long spiked leaves, eight or ten inches in length, set in pairs on -each side of a stem two feet long. In the flowering season, the tree is -completely covered with blossoms. It bears a small reddish berry, which -continues on the tree a long time after the leaves have fallen, and -gives it, even then, an interesting appearance. It is a tree of more -rapid growth than any known in this country. - -The pawpaw is not only the most graceful and pleasing in appearance -of all the wild fruit-bearing shrubs, but throws into the shade those -cultivated by the hand of man. The leaves are long, of a rich green -color, and much resemble the leaves of the tobacco plant. The stem -is straight, white, and of unrivalled beauty. The fruit resembles -the cucumber, but smoother and more pointed at the ends.--There are -from two to five in a cluster; and when ripe are of a rich beautiful -yellow. The fruit contains from two to six seeds, double the size of -the tamarind. The pulp resembles egg custard. It has precisely the same -feeling in the mouth, and unites the taste of eggs, cream, sugar, and -spice. It is a natural custard; but too rich and highly seasoned to be -much relished by most people. So many whimsical and unexpected tastes -are compounded in the fruit, that a person of the most sober face, when -he first tastes of it, unconsciously relaxes into a smile. - -The persimon is found in Missouri, and in the region to the south of -it. Its leaves resemble those of the wild cherry, and it grows about -the size of the pear tree. The fruit is of the size of a common grape, -in which are similar small seeds. It ripens about the middle of autumn. -The fruit is of a yellowish purple color, and it is too sweet to be -agreeable to many people. - -In the middle regions, on some of the prairies, large tracts are -covered with the crab-apple tree.--Their appearance is like the -cultivated apple tree, although the fruit and the tree are much -smaller.--It makes good cider and preserves, but is too tart to be -eaten in its natural state. - -The white and black mulberry are both found in the Mississippi valley, -but the black is by far the most common. It has been satisfactorily -proved, however, that the silk worm will thrive and produce well, upon -the black mulberry. - -Cane brake is seen on the banks of the Mississippi soon after you leave -the mouth of the Ohio. It generally grows from fifteen to twenty feet -in height; but in the rich bottoms near Natchez it sometimes attains -the height of thirty feet. It is five years coming to maturity, and -then produces an abundant crop of seed, on heads much resembling broom -corn. It is an evergreen. The leaves are three or four inches long, -but narrow and sharp pointed. It is much used for reeds and fishing -rods. They grow so very thick that it is difficult for a man to make -head way among them. When they are cut down and become dry, they burn -freely.--The negroes have fine sport in burning them. The heat rarifies -the air in the hollow between the joints and causes them to burst with -a noise like a gun; so that when a large quantity of them are set on -fire, the noise is like a continued discharge of musketry. - -The "barrens" have a distinct and peculiar configuration. The surface -is generally undulating with gentle hills--sometimes of a conical form, -but generally, running in parallel ridges. The soil is of a clayey -texture, of a reddish or greyish color, and is covered with tall coarse -grass. The trees are neither large nor very small; and are scattered -over the surface, at the distance of two or three rods from each -other. They are chiefly of the different kinds of oaks, and from this -circumstance, these barrens are, in many places, called "oak openings." -The soil never exceeds second rate, and is often only third rate; but -it will produce good crops of corn and wheat for many years, without -the aid of manure. There are large tracts of this kind of land in -Kentucky, Tennessee and Alabama. They are common in Indiana, Michigan, -Illinois, Missouri, Arkansas and Texas; and, indeed, they are seen -with more or less frequency over a large portion of the Mississippi -valley. - -The 'pine barrens' are covered with a beautiful growth of long leaved -pines. They run up tall, in a straight shaft, generally about two -feet in diameter, and are excellent for timber. The surface is gently -undulating; sometimes, approaching a dead level, and is covered with -a scanty growth of weeds and grass. The soil is sandy, but sometimes -slightly tinged with reddish clay. It is supposed to be weak and -unproductive; but some of these 'barrens' have produced two or three -good crops of grain, without being enriched by manure. Large districts -of this kind of land are found in Alabama, Mississippi and Arkansas; -and they are common in Florida, and in some sections of Louisiana and -Texas. - -The remaining, and by far the most extensive surface of the valley, is -that of the prairies. Although they have not much diversity of aspect, -yet they may be classed under three general heads--the alluvial, or -wet, the bushy, and the dry prairies. The bushy prairies seem to be -of an intermediate character between the alluvial prairies and the -barrens. They have springs of water, covered with hazel and furzy -bushes, small sassafras shrubs and grape vines. Acres of this shrubbery -are sometimes found covered with the common hop vine. Prairies of this -description are very common in Indiana, Illinois and Missouri; and -they alternate among the other prairies, for some distance towards the -Rocky mountains. - -The wet prairies form the smallest division. They are generally found -on the margin of streams; but sometimes, they occur, with all their -distinctive features, far from the spot where waters now run. They are -generally basins, as it regards the adjacent regions, and possess a -deep, black soil of exhaustless fertility. They are the best soils for -wheat and Indian corn; but, ordinarily, too tender and loamy for the -cultivated grasses. In a native state, they are covered with grass and -weeds of astonishing height and luxuriance. They are often higher than -a man's head, when mounted on horse back. An exact account of the size -and rankness of the weeds, flowering plants, and wild grass on the rich -alluvial prairies of Illinois and Missouri, would appear to those who -have never seen them, like an idle tale. Still more than the rolling -prairies, they strike the eye as a dead level, but they generally have -a slight inclination, sufficient to carry off the water. - -The dry prairies are generally destitute of springs and bushes, but -are covered with weeds, flowering plants and wild grass. The roundings -of their undulations are so gentle, that to the eye, taking in a -large surface at a single view, they appear as a dead level; but in -travelling over them their undulations fully appear. The ravines -and gullies occasionally found, fully indicate, that they have a -sufficient inclination to communicate a quick motion to the waters, -which fall upon them. This is by far the largest class of prairies -in the western country. Prairies of this description are frequently -found in Illinois; the largest of which, called "grand prairie," is a -hundred miles in length, by fifty in breadth. They are often found in -Indiana, Missouri and Texas; but they appear displayed on a magnificent -scale, between the western border of the State of Missouri, and the -Rocky mountains. Here, are the appropriate ranges for the buffalo, wild -cattle and horses. Here are the plains, without wood or water, where -the traveller may wander for days, and see the sun rise and set in an -ocean of grass. Here he may travel, day after day, under a cloudless -ardor of the sun, and not find a stream of water to slake his thirst, -or a solitary tree for shelter and shade. - -The general aspect of the Mississippi valley, in regard to woodland -and prairies, may in a summary manner, be thus stated:--The surface, -in a state of nature, from the Alleghany mountains to the western -border of Ohio, is covered with a dense forest. Here, are the first -indications of prairies. Proceeding westward through Indiana, Illinois -and Missouri, the prairies become larger and more frequent, until -at last, it becomes all prairie to the base of the Rocky mountains. -It is a fact, beyond all question, that more than half of the great -Mississippi valley is smooth prairie, entirely destitute of timber. -Large portions of the valley will support a dense population, and -become inhabited; but the larger prairies will remain uncultivated -for ages. They are fit haunts only for the adventurous hunter, or the -wandering shepherd. - -During the season of vegetation, no adequate idea can be conveyed by -description, of the number, forms, varieties, scents and hues of the -flowering plants on the western prairies. The violet, and the more -humble and modest kinds of flowers, which show their blossoms in early -spring, not being able to compete with the rank grass and weeds around -them, soon become choked and lost to the view; but the taller and more -hardy kinds, successfully struggle for display, and rear their heads -high enough to be seen. They have tall and arrowy stems, spiked or -tassellated heads, and the blossoms are of great size, grandeur and -splendor, but not much delicacy of fragrance. As the season advances, -distinct successions of dominant hues prevail. In spring, the prevalent -color of the prairie flowers, is bluish purple--in midsummer, red, -slightly tinged with yellow--in autumn, yellow. At this season of the -year, the flowers are very large, generally, of the sunflower form, and -they are so profusely scattered over the prairies, as to present to the -imagination an immense surface of gilding. - -And this country of dense forests and rich prairies, is intersected -with large and navigable rivers. These, alive as they are with -their steamboats, keel and flat boats, afford great facilities for -travelling, and for the transportation of merchandize and produce. The -prairies and woodland also, present great facilities for travelling, -and the transportation of goods. They are often, in a state of nature, -so smooth, so gently undulating, and of such an unbroken surface, that -carriages may run over them without interruption or delay. - -Such are the general outlines and features of the great Mississippi -valley; but a complete description would require volumes. Nature has -laid off her work here, upon a magnificent scale, and finished it with -a liberal hand. Its natural productions are rich and abundant. Its -waters abound with fish--its soil teems with an exuberance of trees, -plants and blossoms--rich mines lie emboweled beneath the surface--and -wild game are profusely scattered over its prairies, woodland and -rivers. To the husbandman, it presents itself in a more attractive -aspect, than the granite hills and rocky soil of New-England. It has -increased in population and wealth, incomparably greater than any other -section of the world; and ere long, it will contain a majority of the -population of the United States. - -And now, it only remains, most respectfully to take leave of my -readers. Those who have traced the TRIP TO THE WEST AND TEXAS through -the foregoing pages, I hope, may have enjoyed all its pleasures, -without incurring its attendant hardships and fatigue. - - - - -APPENDIX. - -Territory of Michigan. - - -This Territory is bounded by the national boundary line on the east -and north, by the Mississippi river on the west, and by the States of -Illinois, Indiana and Ohio on the south. These boundaries include a -vast extent of territory; but as that portion of it which lies to the -north and west of Lake Michigan and the State of Illinois is for the -most part a wilderness, having only some small settlements on Green -Bay, the Milwake and Mississippi, my remarks will be confined to that -part of it commonly called the peninsula, lying between lakes Erie and -Michigan. - -_Population._--This territory is estimated by good judges to contain -between thirty-five and forty thousand inhabitants. The rapid and -increasing tide of emigration into it, induces the belief that it will -soon be admitted as a State into the Union. Its present and increasing -importance may be in a great measure attributed to the enterprising, -active and energetic talents of its late governor, Lewis Cass, the -present Secretary of War. His personal exertions and enlightened -policy, not only facilitated its settlement, but developed its vast and -various resources. A large portion of its inhabitants are from New-York -and the Eastern States, and are as active and industrious as those -are in the sections of country from which they came. They make rapid -improvements; and in a few years, the country will not be behind the -flourishing State of Ohio, in farms and villages. - -_Face of the Country._--That part immediately bordering on lakes Erie, -St. Clair and Huron, and their connecting waters, is generally rather -level and heavily timbered, but somewhat deficient in good water. In -the interior, it becomes gently undulating, occasionally well timbered, -and interspersed with oak openings, plains and prairies. The plains -are frequently covered with such a regular, beautiful and thrifty -growth of timber, so free from underbrush, as to wear the aspect of -a cultivated forest. They are more easily improved than the heavy -timbered land, and produce full as well. The openings are often rather -deficient in timber, though they are not unfrequently skirted with -plains, or contain patches of woodland, from which an ample supply -may be obtained, not only for fuel, but for building, fencing and all -other fanning purposes, if used with economy. They usually require but -little, and sometimes no labor to prepare them for the plough; three -or four yoke of cattle are found to be amply sufficient to break them -up the first time, after which they are cultivated with nearly as much -ease as old improved lands. They are found to be excellent for wheat, -to improve by cultivation, and usually to produce a good crop of corn -the first season. - -The prairies generally support a heavy growth of grass--are free from -timber, and may be divided into two classes. One is called dry, and -the other is denominated wet prairies. The former possess a rich soil, -are easily cultivated, and generally yield in rich abundance almost -every kind of produce which might be expected to flourish in forty-two -degrees north latitude, especially those on St. Joseph's river. And the -latter often prove serviceable, not only in affording early pasture, -but in supplying the emigrant with the means of wintering his cattle; -and may with a little labor, frequently be made to yield an abundant -supply of excellent hay. The interior of the territory is well watered -with rivers, creeks and small lakes; many of which contain an unusual -quantity of fish. There are several salt springs, which have not yet -been tried nor improved, situated in different parts of the territory, -all of which have been reserved by the United States; but it is not -certain that any of them will prove very valuable. By boring a number -of feet, the water would improve, and might, in some cases at least, -not only justify the erection of extensive works for the manufacture of -salt, but prove also a source of revenue to the United States, as well -as afford to the manufacturer the means of accumulating wealth. - -The surveyed part of the territory is laid out by the United States -into townships of six miles square, which are divided into thirty-six -sections or square miles, containing each six hundred and forty acres. -These are subdivided, by imaginary lines, into quarter and half quarter -sections; the latter of which contain each eighty acres, is the -smallest quantity sold by the United States, and may, as well as the -larger tracts, be selected by the purchaser. Though there is a small -tract of land which proves rather unhealthy at the mouth of Huron, -Saginaw and Rouge rivers, as well as at the mouth of Brownstown and -Swan creeks, owing to the sluggishness of the water at the outlet of -these streams, yet the climate of the surveyed part of the territory -is mild, lying between forty-one degrees thirty-nine minutes, and -forty-two degrees thirty-four minutes north latitude. The air is -salubrious, and the water generally clear. The soil, which produces in -rich abundance wheat rye, barley, oats, peas, beans, Indian corn, and -potatoes, as well as all kinds of vegetables usually cultivated in the -same latitude, consists of such a variety, that it cannot fail to suit -the choice of almost every person in the pursuit of agriculture. Fruit, -of course, has not yet been tested in the interior, for the want -of time, except peaches, which do exceedingly well; but if I may be -permitted to draw an inference, from the quality of the various kinds -which grow in great abundance on the French plantations, along the -margin of Detroit river, as well as on other parts of the great chain -of navigable waters, then I presume I shall be allowed to say, that the -soil of Michigan is equal, for the production of fruit, to that of any -State in the Union. The pear trees along this river, which were planted -in the early settlement by the French, are remarkably large, very tall, -and extremely thrifty and beautiful, and bear a most delicious fruit, -which generally sells from two to four shillings per bushel. Apples, at -Detroit, vary from twelve to fifty cents, and may generally be procured -by the bushel, for the latter price, even in winter. Cider, in the -fall, is from one and a half to two dollars per barrel, for the juice. -Currants, blackberries, black and red raspberries and cherries bring -from three to four cents per quart; though the earliest of these, as -well as whortle berries and strawberries, command sixpence. Plumbs are -scarce, because they have not been generally cultivated, though they -are likewise found to do well. - -The price of unsold wild land is fixed and uniform, being one dollar -and twenty-five cents per acre, the terms ready money, and the title -indisputable, as it comes direct from the United States, under the -seal of the President. The richest, most fertile, and perhaps more -beautiful part of the territory, is generally thought to be adjacent to -the St. Joseph's river and its various branches; which, from present -appearances, bids fair to become speedily settled; settlements began -to form on it a year before it was offered for sale. It only came in -market in May, 1834, and such has been the influx of emigration to this -part of the territory, that the Legislature in October last, formed -twelve new counties, mostly thereon, and organized two of that number. -This part of the territory possesses several copious mill streams, -particularly Hog-creek, the Dowagiake, Christianna, Pigeon, Crooked -and Portage rivers, a few of which have already been improved, by -the erection of saw and grist mills. The climate of this part of the -territory, though mild, is apparently more subject to wind than the -valley of the Ohio river. The prevailing wind is the southwest; and as -it crosses a large tract of prairie country in Illinois and Indiana, -comes here with much force, and in winter is somewhat piercing. -Considerable snow falls; nevertheless it is very favorable to wheat, -rye, potatoes and turnips, and though not very adverse, yet not so -congenial as the valley of the Ohio river, to southern corn and the -more tender grains and esculents. Fruits, of course, have not yet been -cultivated here, except a few apples and peaches, by the French which -appear to do well. - -The prairies in this quarter are of the richest soil, and may be -ploughed in two days after the frost leaves the ground in the spring. -They usually produce thirty or forty bushels of wheat to the acre; and -from thirty to eighty of corn have been raised from the same quantity -of ground, in all the prairies that have as yet been occupied: four -hundred acres of corn were cultivated on Beardsley's prairie last year, -which having been improved the year before averaged fifty bushels to -the acre. These prairies not unfrequently produce thirty or forty -bushels of corn to the acre, the first season, without being ploughed -or hoed after planting. - -The surveyed part of the territory is divided into three United States -land districts, containing each one land office; one of which is at -Detroit, one at Monroe and one at Bronson, in the county of Kalamazoo. - -The rivers Grand, St. Joseph, Raisin, Huron, Clinton, Rouge, Kalamazoo -and Shiawassee, interlocking in different parts of the territory, not -only irrigate the country in a beautiful manner, but offer unparalleled -inducements for canaling, and with comparatively but little expense, -as there would be no mountains, nor probably rock strata to cut -through. It is already in contemplation, by means of the Grand -river and Clinton, or the St. Joseph's and Raisin, to open a water -communication across the peninsula, by means of a canal, which would -terminate at Detroit or Monroe; and probably at no distant period, it -will not only be undertaken, but will be accomplished in such a manner -as to accommodate both these places in this respect. A company was -incorporated, by an act of the Legislature, last fall, under the title -of the "Summit Portage Canal and Road Company," with a capital of ten -thousand dollars, to be divided into one thousand shares of ten dollars -each, for the purpose of cutting a canal west of Lake Michigan, to -connect the Fox and Ouisconsin rivers at what is usually termed the -Portage of the Ouisconsin, and to construct a turnpike road on said -Portage, parallel to said canal; and also to construct another turnpike -road from the lower extremity of the rapids of the Kaukauin, on the -east side of the Fox river, on the most direct and eligible route to -Winnebago lake, and for the erection of piers, wharves, warehouses -and other public buildings and improvements, in and about said canal -and turnpike, for commercial purposes.--Michigan extends at present -west to the Mississippi river; but it is expected the territory will -shortly be divided, and a new territory set off west of Lake Michigan; -and organized by the name of Ouisconsin or Huron. The territory was -originally owned and occupied by emigrants from France; consequently -the old inhabitants or first settlers are mostly French. - -WAYNE COUNTY--contains about seven thousand inhabitants, many of -whom are French. Its seat of justice is Detroit. Hamtranck, Detroit -and Springwells. These towns, which lie in the northeast part of the -country, border on Detroit river, and are rather level, and but poorly -supplied with water. The northern part of the two latter is somewhat -broken by marsh and wet prairie; but near the centre of Springwells -is a tract, containing some excellent arable land not yet entered, -lying within from six to ten miles of Detroit, where a new settlement -has recently been formed, and through which a road has lately been -opened, leading from Detroit to Farmington. The towns of Pekin, Nankin -and Plymouth are well supplied with water by the river Rouge and its -various branches, which afford several eligible mill sites, and which -have already been advantageously improved by the erection thereon of -saw and grist mills. Pekin is heavily timbered with white and black -ash, white and black oak, beech, maple and sugar tree. The land is -rolling, and the soil rich and fertile, consisting of sand, loam and -some clay. The northern and southern part of the town of Nankin has -much the same appearance as Pekin, though the soil is more sandy, and -requires less labor to cultivate it; yet it yields quite as well; -but the middle is plains and openings, of an inferior quality and -soil. Plymouth has likewise a similar appearance to Pekin, though the -northern part is more rolling, yet even here the timber is the same, -with the addition of black walnut; but the soil is generally of a -superior quality. - -_Huron._--This town is watered by a delightsome river, of the same -name, whose waters are very transparent and abound with fish. It runs -through the town diagonally, exhibiting in many places rich bottom -lands, often bounded on one or both sides, by high sloping banks, -and not unfrequently skirted with beautiful plains. Though a great -proportion of this town is rather destitute of running streams, yet the -soil in general is fertile, and for the most part easily cultivated. -The eastern part is oak openings and plains of a good quality, -interspersed with groves of heavy timber which often contain a small -black ash swamp, and sometimes a wet or dry prairie; but the south part -is heavily timbered with white and black ash, white oak, beech and -maple, with occasionally a whitewood. The southwest corner is low land, -and contains a large wet prairie. - -_Brownstown_ is watered by the Huron river, Muddy and Brownstown -creeks. The north-western part of this town is but poorly watered, and -exhibits alternately oak openings, plains and prairies, occasionally -interspersed with groves of heavy timber. The southeastern part is -rather level and heavily timbered, except small tracts at the mouths of -Huron river and Brownstown creek, which consist of prairies that are -more or less inundated with water. - -_Montguagon_ embraces Gross' Isle, and is situate on Detroit river. -It is gently undulating, possesses a fine quarry of limestone, and a -rich soil, supporting a thrifty and heavy growth of white oak, hickory, -beech, maple, white and black ash. - -MONROE COUNTY--contains a population of about four thousand, many of -whom are French. There are three villages in this county, namely, -Monroe, Frenchtown and Port Lawrence. The first of these, which is -the seat of justice for the county, is a flourishing village, situate -on the river Raisin, about six miles from lake Erie, and thirty-six -from Detroit. The United States' turnpike, from the latter place to -the Ohio State line, passes through it, and here was situated the bank -of Monroe. It possesses an ample supply of water power for propelling -hydraulic machinery, a part of which has already been converted to -the use of saw and grist mills, as well as to the use of machines for -carding and dressing cloth. - -The United States have made a survey of Plaisance Bay harbor, at the -mouth of the river, with a view of improving the same. Monroe is now -the second village in the peninsula, as it regards population; and -should they succeed in forming a good harbor at the mouth of the river, -as it possesses water power, it may yet equal, if not rival Detroit. -The county is generally well watered; the north-eastern part is rather -level and heavily timbered; but the western and southern part is -rolling land, alternately abounding in prairies, openings, or heavy -groves of timber. The soil of this county is uniformly rich, and of a -very superior quality. - -WASHTENAW COUNTY--contains about four thousand inhabitants, who are, -with a few exceptions, Americans. Its seat of justice is Ann Arbor, a -village of five years' growth, situate on the river Huron, forty miles -west of Detroit, containing about ninety dwelling houses. Ypsilanti, -the second village in the county as to population, is likewise situate -on the Huron, about ten miles below Ann Arbor, at the place where the -United States' turnpike, from Detroit to Chicago, crosses it. - -This county contains twelve mercantile establishments, three -distilleries, one fanning mill factory, one oil factory, one gunsmith, -one wagon maker, five flouring mills, thirteen saw mills, and two -machines for carding and dressing cloth. It abounds in select and -common schools, and contains many mechanics. Its surface is gently -undulating and beautiful; and its soil prolific, consisting of a deep -black sand, loam and some clay. It exhibits in succession, beautiful -prairies, oak openings, and heavy groves of timber, consisting of -white, red and black oak, beech, walnut, whitewood, bass, elm, maple -and butternut, with almost all other kinds that usually grow in -forty-two degrees north latitude, evergreen excepted. The river Huron, -of lake Erie, meanders through the centre of it north and south; -is navigable for boats and rafts to the lake, and with its several -branches water the middle; the head waters of the Shiawassee the north, -and the rivers Raisin and Saline and their branches, the south part -of said county. It has numerous and extensive water privileges for -facilitating manufactures. - -MACOMB COUNTY--contains about two thousand five hundred inhabitants, a -considerable number of whom are French. The north-eastern and eastern -part of this county is in general rather level, and for the most part -heavily timbered; yet it is sufficiently uneven to drain off and leave -no stagnant waters; but the western part is rolling land, somewhat -broken, being very hilly and uneven, and consisting of oak openings, -plains, and some prairie land. - -The plains are remarkably free from underbrush, and are, as well as -the prairies and openings, very rich and fertile, producing not only -wheat, but every other kind of grain in rich abundance. The Clinton -river, together with its numerous tributaries, irrigate this county in -a beautiful manner. It possesses advantages over many of the peninsular -counties, on account of its proximity to the great chain of navigable -waters. It fronts on lake St. Clair; and the river Clinton, which -runs through the entire county, nearly in the centre, may easily be -rendered navigable for batteaux, as high up as Rochester. And for the -accomplishment of which a company has already been formed and were -incorporated last fall by an act of the Legislature. This river is now -navigable to Mt. Clemens, for vessels of considerable burthen; and -when the obstructions at the mouth of the river are removed, for which -object an application has been made to Congress for an appropriation, -then any vessels or steamboats on the lake may come up to the village, -a distance of six miles, by water. - -This county is very well supplied with water power, it has now in -operation seven saw mills, and two grist mills, and embraces four -stores, three distilleries, two asheries, and six blacksmith shops. Its -seat of justice is Mt. Clemens, a flourishing village situate on the -Clinton river, at the place where the United States' road from Detroit -to fort Gratiot crosses it. It lies four and a half miles from the -lake, by land, and twenty northeastwardly from Detroit. - -_Washington_ lies in the northwest corner of the county, and consists -principally of oak openings and plains, though it has some prairie -land. The openings and plains are extremely free from underbrush and -prove to be excellent for the cultivation of wheat. The south part -of the town is rolling land, exhibiting a rich, and for the most -part a sandy soil, though it is sometimes composed of sand and loam -intermixed; but the north part is what is commonly called broken land, -being very hilly and uneven, and not unfrequently exhibits granitic -boulders in great plenty. - -_Shelby and Ray_ consist principally of gentle undulating and heavy -timbered land, interspersed occasionally with oak openings. They are -well watered and possess a very productive soil. - -_Harrison_ is in general rather level, and the north part though -somewhat swampy is susceptible of being converted into excellent -meadow. - -_Clinton_ possesses generally a rich soil, is heavily timbered and -embraces a marsh or wet prairie of considerable extent on its eastern -border adjacent to the lake shore, the greater part of which, however, -if properly ditched, would prove to be good natural meadow. The -northern part of the town is gently undulating and well supplied with -water, of which the southern part is too deficient, being rather level. - -OAKLAND COUNTY--contains about six thousand inhabitants, all Americans. -It has three villages, each with a mill on its border, namely, Pontiac, -Auburn and Rochester; the first of which is the seat of justice for -the county, and is situated twenty-eight miles northwest of Detroit, -on the Clinton river, where the United States' road from Detroit to -Saginaw crosses it. This county presents a great variety of soil, and -upon examination will be found to suit the choice of almost every -person in the pursuit of agriculture. The rivers Clinton, Rouge and -Huron, interlocking in different parts extend their many branches, and -irrigate the county in a beautiful manner. - -_Troy_ embraces townships one and two south in range eleven east, is -situate in the southeast quarter of the county, and is principally -timbered land; township two in this town is entirely of this -description, is heavily wooded with black and white walnut, linden, -white, red and black oak, and the westerly half is of that description -usually denominated rolling timbered land, and in quality of soil, -is not surpassed by any in the territory; but township one of that -description called plains, interspersed with marshes, and is of an -inferior quality. - -_Bloomfield_ presents a variety of soil, which may be divided into -three classes, oak openings, plains and timbered land. The country in -the neighborhood of the lakes is oak openings, not so good for grass, -but producing wheat in rich abundance--I would mention that two farmers -in the vicinity of Wing lake, harvested one hundred and thirty acres -of excellent wheat the last season. The north of Bloomfield is of this -description, but the south part is timbered land. - -_Pontiac_ is generally oak openings of a good quality, but inferior to -the lands of Bloomfield. - -_Oakland._--The south part of this town is timbered land with a rich -soil, and the north part plains and openings of a good quality. - -The town of Troy is watered by a branch of the Rouge, and the branches -of Red river which empty into the Clinton. Bloomfield is watered by -three branches of the Rouge, which, meandering through the county, -enable every farmer to partake of their privileges. The towns of -Pontiac and Oakland are watered by the Clinton river, Paint and Stony -creeks and the extreme branches of the Huron. All these streams possess -great privileges for hydraulic machinery. The towns of Pontiac and -Oakland now contain twelve saw mills, four flouring mills, three -fulling mills, three carding machines and one woollen factory. In -Bloomfield are four saw mills and one grist mill. In Farmington two saw -mills and one grist mill. Perhaps no country of like extent so level -possesses more water power. - -ST. CLAIR COUNTY--possesses great commercial advantages, as it lies on -the great chain of navigable waters. It is bounded east by lake Huron -and the river St. Clair, which separates it from Canada; south by lake -St. Clair and the county of Macomb, west by the counties of Macomb -and Lapeer, and north by Sanilac. Black, Pine and Belle rivers, Mill -creek and their branches, as well as several smaller streams water -this country. The first of these streams is navigable for vessels of -considerable burthen, as far up as Mill creek; but Belle and Pine -rivers are ascended only a very short distance in batteaux. This -country is generally rather level, the eastern and southern part is -gently undulating, rich, fertile and most heavily timbered, though -there is occasionally some prairie land on the border of lake St. -Clair, and along the southern margin of St. Clair river. The northern -and western part of this country is comparatively of a light, and for -the most part sandy soil, though tolerably productive, and interspersed -with swamps and lowland. A great proportion of the timber in this -quarter is pine, though it is often intermixed with hard wood and not -unfrequently interspersed with groves of tamerack, in some instances -with spruce, and often on the shore of lake Huron, with red and white -cedar. - -There are now in operation in this county, several of the most -extensive saw mills in the territory, which are constantly engaged -in manufacturing pine boards, planks, &c. and which, together with -shingles, constitute at present the principal article of trade in the -country. And as lumber may be conveyed from this county by water to -any port, not only on the great lakes, but on their connecting waters, -therefore the pine timber must ultimately become very valuable. Almost -all the pine now used at Detroit for building, comes from this county, -as it is the only one in the surveyed part of the territory that is -well supplied with this valuable building material. The United States' -road from Detroit to fort Gratiot runs through the centre of this -county, and about twelve miles west of the village of Palmer, which -is the seat of justice for the county; and which is situate at the -junction of Pine and St. Clair rivers, about twelve miles south of fort -Gratiot, and sixty by water northeast of Detroit. - -ST. JOSEPH'S COUNTY--is perhaps the best in the territory, both as -to water privileges and the fertility of its soil. It is watered by -the St. Joseph's river and its various branches, many of which afford -numerous water privileges, particularly Hog creek, Pigeon, Portage and -Crooked rivers, which may be considered copious and excellent mill -streams. A saw mill has already been put in operation on Crooked -river, and several others have been commenced on the same creek and -about Pigeon prairie. The water in this county is uniformly pure and -healthy, the climate mild, and the face of the country moderately -undulating; consisting principally of oak openings and prairies. There -is however a sufficiency of timber in it generally, and from the -Grand Traverse on the northwest side of the river St. Joseph's, as -high up I believe as Portage river, is a belt of excellent timbered -land which is well supplied with water. The principal prairies in -this county are Sturges, Nottawa Sapee and White Pigeon. The first of -these, Sturges prairie, has a beautiful appearance, and is exuberant -in fertility, but is not convenient for water and but tolerably so to -good timber--a few families are located on it. Nottawa Sapee, part of -which is embraced within the Indian reserve, is an excellent prairie, -and settlements have commenced on it. But Pigeon prairie is the most -valuable one in the St. Joseph's country, as well as the most densely -peopled, and perhaps it will not be deemed invidious to say it is the -best settlement in the St. Joseph's country, whether we regard the -number of its inhabitants or their intelligence and wealth. The soil -of these prairies may be considered equal to that of any land in the -United States. The usual mode of cultivating these, as well as all -other prairies in the vicinity of the river St. Joseph's, is to break -up the soil immediately with the plough at the same time dropping the -corn on the edge of the furrow in such a manner that it may be covered -by the succeeding one; in this manner without any other cultivation, -they often produce thirty to fifty bushels of corn to the acre the -first season, though sometimes it becomes necessary to go through and -cut down some of the rankest weeds. The counties of Branch, Barry and -Eaton, and all the country north of township four, north; west of the -principal meridian, south of the county of Michilimackinac, and east of -the line between ranges twelve and thirteen west, and of lake Michigan -is attached to St. Joseph's. - -CASS COUNTY---contains a population of two thousand, and is likewise -watered by the St. Joseph's river and its branches, several of -which afford good mill privileges, particularly the Dowagiake and -Christianna, which are rapid and durable streams. A mill has already -been erected and is now in operation on the Christianna, near Young's -prairie. - -The face of this county is similar to that of St. Joseph's county; -though some parts are undulating, yet in general it is level, -sufficiently uneven however to drain off and leave no stagnant waters. -The timber is principally oak, ash, elm, sugar tree, cherry, black and -white walnut and hickory, with a variety of other kinds intermixed. -The country is generally open, and you can ride with a wheel carriage -through the wood land with almost the same ease you can over the -prairies, being not in the least interrupted with underbrush. In every -part of the county the roads are good. Though some parts of it are -but thinly timbered, yet along the Dowagiake from its source to its -mouth there is a broad belt of excellent timbered and very rich land, -from one to several miles wide, also along the upper portion of the -Christianna, extending north of its source, and thence across to the -Dowagiake is a fine belt of woodland. This county includes within -its boundaries the following prairies, namely, Four Mile, Beardsley, -Townsend's, McKenney's, La Grange, Pokagon and Young's, besides several -small ones, not however known by any particular name. The prairies here -are of the richest quality of soil; may be ploughed in two days after -the frost leaves the ground in spring, and frequently produce thirty -or forty bushels of corn to the acre the first season, without being -ploughed or hoed after planting. The three last mentioned prairies are -conveniently situate to mill streams, and principally surrounded with -heavy timbered land, but they are nearly all taken up by purchasers. -Four Mile prairie is not so happily situate with regard to mills or -timbered land; but nevertheless is fast filling up. From thirty to -eighty bushels of corn and forty of wheat are usually raised from an -acre in all the prairies where the soil has been subdued by previous -cultivation. Every other kind of grain as well as vegetables are -produced in about the same proportion. - -The only town yet laid out in this county is Edwardsburgh, which is the -temporary county seat. It is situate on the border of Pleasant lake, -and on the northeast corner of Beardsley's prairie. The United States' -road from Detroit to Chicago passes through it, as well as the road -from fort Wayne to Pokagon, to Niles', to Young's and to Townsend's -prairies, and to Coquillard in Indiana. All these places except fort -Wayne are situate within ten miles of it. From the town platte, or -village, you have a view not only of the prairie, but also of Pleasant -lake.--The prairie is four miles in extent and the lake covers about -one hundred acres. Fish are abundant in all the streams and small -lakes--forty three that would weigh from one to three pounds were -caught with a hook and line in Pleasant lake by two persons in thirty -minutes. The water in this lake is very pure, you can see the bottom -where the depth of water is fifteen feet. The country is healthy, -several large families who settled here before the land was offered for -sale, and who have resided here for three years, have not had a case -of fever nor any other kind of sickness, except what has resulted from -accident. - -The counties of Berrien and Van Buren and all the country north of the -same to lake Michigan is attached at present to Cass county. - -BERRIEN COUNTY, not organized, has in it a large proportion of superior -timbered land, but has no prairies of much importance. The settlements -in this county, though few, are scattered along the river, and the -population does not exceed thirty-five families. But from the nature -of the country, I am inclined to believe it will be the most populous -county on the St. Joseph's. - -The rich timbered land, though now avoided for the prairies, will -ultimately be in demand, and will afford many dense and excellent -settlements.--Through the timbered land in this county run several -small creeks, which, with their numerous branches afford an additional -convenience to the farmer which he cannot enjoy in the prairies nor in -the barrens. Besides the heavy timbered and prairie land, there are -large tracts of what are here called barrens, being of a light soil -comparatively speaking, though very productive, and which are thinly -covered with white and black oak, sometimes of stinted growth, but -mostly of a handsome and useful size. The soil is generally a fine -sand, mixed with decayed vegetables and sometimes gravelly, with here -and there a granitic boulder. The soil of the timbered land is of a -loose sandy nature, black with fertility, and eminently adapted to -culture. That of the prairies is nearly of the same nature after the -sod has been reduced by repeated ploughing. In the timbered land we -find white and black walnut, several kinds of ash, also oak, poplar, -lynn, beech, elm, hickory, sugar tree, &c. The southeast part of this -county is well supplied with water, and possesses several mill sites, -some of which have already been improved. Ford's saw and grist mill, -on the Dowagiake, have been for some time in operation. There is -also a saw mill just ready to commence operation at the mouth of the -Dowagiake, and several others have been commenced on the same stream. -There is but one village regularly laid out in this county, which is -called Niles. It is situate on the St. Joseph's, a short distance above -the confluence of the Dowagiake with that river. The first framed house -in it was erected in December, 1833. Next summer it is expected there -will be considerable building there. Last season, though there were -no accommodations, yet by far the greatest portion of merchandize, -&c. destined for the St. Joseph's country, when conveyed by water was -landed there.--Next spring will be built two warehouses, there are now -two stores and a post office. Post offices have been established at the -mouth of the St. Joseph's called Saranac, at Pokagon, southwest corner -of town six south in range sixteen west, at Lagrange in the middle of -town six south of range fifteen west, at Pigeon prairie, at Sturgis' -prairie, and at the Grand Traverse. - -LAPEER, SHIAWASSEE AND SAGINAW.--These counties are not yet organized, -but attached to Oakland county. There are no inhabitants in Lapeer, -and but few settlers at present in Saginaw and Shiawassee. The face of -these two counties is very similar to Oakland. - -SAGINAW--is watered by the Shiawassee, Flint, Cass, Tittibawassee and -Hare rivers. The most of these streams are navigable for boats; their -junction forms the Saginaw river which is navigable for sloops twenty -miles to the village which bears the same name, and which is to be the -seat of justice for said county. The United States have established a -cantonment here, and laid out a road from this place to Detroit, which -is not yet finished. When this is completed, it is more than probable -that it will settle as speedily as any county in the territory, as the -soil is very favorable to agriculture. - -SHIAWASSEE.--The soil of this county is rich, and the face of the -country gently undulating, in some instances rolling, exhibiting oak -openings and heavy groves of timber. The Shiawassee river which is a -beautiful, meandering stream, and navigable for boats and rafts to the -lake, with its several branches, waters the middle and southeast part. -The head branches of Grand and Looking Glass rivers, the southwest -part, and Swartz's creek, the Flint and Mistegayock rivers, the -northeast part of said county. - -CALHOUN.--This county has lately been organized and its seat of justice -is the town of Marshall, pleasantly situated on the north bank of -the Kalamazoo river. This river and its branches afford many fine -mill privileges. The soil is rich and gently undulating, consisting -principally of burr oak openings, which are frequently interspersed -with prairies. In the southwest part of the county is a small tract of -pine timber. - -JACKSON--has lately been organized and its seat of justice is the -town of Jackson, situated near Grand river. The west half of it is -undulating, and consists principally of burr and white oak openings, -interspersed occasionally with prairies. It abounds in springs and -possesses a fertile soil. The northeast part is heavily timbered and -somewhat intersected with marshes and small lakes. The soil, however, -of this part, is rich and well adapted for meadow. Grand river is an -excellent stream of pure water, quick, yet navigable for canoes from -its junction with its south branch, quite through the county and to -lake Michigan. - -KALAMAZOO.--This is one of the newly organized counties. Its seat of -justice is the town of Bronson, pleasantly situated on the south bank -of the Kalamazoo river. The land office has lately been removed to this -place from St. Joseph. The face of this county in general is moderately -undulating, though sometimes rolling. It exhibits principally burr -oak openings, interspersed with rich fertile and dry prairies, and -not unfrequently intersected with groves of first rate timbered land. -The character of the soil is in general either a black sand or a rich -loam. In the southeast corner of this county is an excellent tract of -woodland, covered with a heavy but beautiful grove of sugar maple. Gull -and Round prairies are the two largest in this county, and are equal -to any in the territory for beauty and fertility. The first of these, -Gull prairie, is situate in the vicinity of a beautiful lake, as well -as adjacent to the margin of a romantic creek, both of which bear the -same name. This lake is about four miles long, and its waters which -are very transparent are said to contain white fish. The creek is very -rapid and affords hydraulic privileges equal to any in the territory. -Prairie Round, which lies in the southwest part of the county, is -about four miles broad, and is principally surrounded with woodland; -near its centre there is a beautiful grove of timber of about a mile -in diameter, consisting of sugar maple, black walnut and hickory. This -county is well supplied with water. The Kalamazoo river which runs -through it is a rapid meandering stream, yet navigable for boats. Its -surface is frequently chequered with islands and its banks occasionally -broken. - -BRANCH.--This county is attached to St. Joseph's. A large portion -of it, particularly the southern part, is heavily timbered land, -consisting principally of black and white walnut, sugar maple, -whitewood, lynn, and some other kinds in smaller quantities. The -Chicago road which runs through the northern part of this county, -passes principally through oak openings, which are occasionally -intersected with prairies. - -HILLSDALE.--This county is attached to Lenawee. The north part of it is -principally oak openings of a good quality, but the southern part is -heavily wooded with sugar maple, whitewood, beech, black walnut, ash, -&c. The face of this county is rather uneven and the soil in general -consists of a rich black loam. The southern part is timbered land. This -county is well supplied with water. The St. Joseph's of lake Michigan, -as well as the St. Joseph's of Maumee, the Grand river, Tiffin's and -the river Raisin all head in this county, and with their numerous -branches water it in a beautiful manner. - -LEANEWEE COUNTY--contains at present about fifteen hundred inhabitants. -The northern part of this county has much the same appearance as -Washtenaw, but the southern part is principally timbered land. It -contains a tamerack swamp of considerable extent in the southeast -corner, yet notwithstanding, the character of its soil and climate -is, generally, very inviting. It is principally watered by the Ottawa -creek, Tiffin's and Raisin rivers and their branches. It contains -two villages each with a mill on their borders, namely, Tecumseh and -Adrian--the former of which is the seat of justice for the county. It -is situate at the junction of Landman's creek with the river Raisin, -and lies about fifty-five miles southwest of Detroit. - -BARRY, EATON AND INGHAM COUNTIES--lie on Grand river and its -tributaries. This is the largest river in the peninsula. It empties -into lake Michigan, two hundred and forty-five miles south of -Michilimackinac, and forty-five miles north of the mouth of St. Joseph, -is sixty rods wide at its mouth, and has sufficient depth of water to -admit vessels drawing eight feet. On its south bank, near its entrance -into the lake, is a pleasant situation for a town, the land being -excellent, and gently inclining to the north and west, giving at the -same time a fine view of the river and lake; but the opposite shore at -the same place has a sandy, sterile appearance. - -For about sixty miles up this river, on the north side, the Ottawas -hold possession. There are between eight and nine hundred of these -people living along Grand river and its tributaries, but many of their -most populous villages are on land now belonging to the United States. - -This river is the largest stream that waters the west part of the -peninsula of Michigan, being two hundred and seventy miles in length, -its windings included, and navigable two hundred and forty miles for -batteaux; receiving in its course a great number of tributary streams, -among which are Portage, Red Cedar, Looking Glass, Soft Maple, Muscota, -Flat, Rouge and Thorn Apple rivers. All of these, except the last -named, put in on the right bank of the Grand river. Its south branch -rises in the open country, near the source of the Raisin, and after -pursuing a winding course of thirty miles, meets with the Portage -river, which comes in from the east and intersects the above branch in -town two south of range one west. - -Portage river, which has its course through a chain of low marshy -prairies, is a deep, muddy stream, about fifteen yards wide at its -mouth. Its branches interlock with those of the Huron of lake Erie, and -the Indians pass from the former into the latter, with their canoes, -by crossing a portage of one mile and a half. It is probable that -at no distant period, a canal will be constructed near the route of -these two rivers, so as to afford a safe and easy inland communication -between lakes Erie and Michigan. The distance from Detroit to the -mouth of Grand river, by way of Michilimackinac, is five hundred and -sixty miles. This route in the spring and fall is attended with much -uncertainty; and, in case of a war with the English, the navigation -of the straits of Detroit and St. Clair would be rendered doubly -dangerous. These difficulties would be obviated by a communication by -water, through the interior. The land at the Portage rises forty or -fifty feet above the level of the streams on each side; but a level -prairie two or three miles to the west of that place, is said to extend -from one river to the other. - -From the junction of the Portage and south branches, this river pursues -a northwest course till it meets with Soft Maple river, in town seven -north of range six west; receiving in that distance Red Cedar and -Looking Glass rivers from the east, and Grindstone, Red and Sebewa -creeks from the south and southwest. - -Grindstone creek, so named from a sandstone ledge through which it -runs, empties into the river about twenty miles below the mouth of the -Portage branch. It is twenty miles long, affording several good sites -for mills, and runs mostly through an open beautiful country; but is in -some instances skirted with bottoms of heavy timbered land. - -From the mouth of this creek to that of Looking Glass river, a distance -of forty-five miles in a direct line, the Grand river runs through -a tract of timbered land, which is several miles in extent on each -side, abounding in creeks and springs of water, and bearing a growth -of maple, basswood, cherry, oak, ash, whitewood, elm, black walnut, -butternut, and some other kinds in lesser quantities. Below Looking -Glass river, for forty or fifty miles, tracts of open land are found -along the banks, but extensive forests immediately in the rear. The -river bottoms are from a quarter of a mile to one mile in width, and -the timbered lands are covered with a rank growth of rushes, (Equisetum -hyemale) on which the Indians keep their horses during the winter. It -is found that cattle and horses do better on these rushes, than when -kept on hay; and it would seem from their abundance, that nature here -intended them as a substitute for that article. The surface of the land -after leaving the river bottoms is rolling; and it rises sufficiently -high to give rapidity to the numerous creeks that so abundantly -irrigate this part of the country. - -Red Cedar river is thirty-five yards wide, and puts in about midway -between Grindstone creek and Looking Glass river. It rises in -Washtenaw and Shiawassee counties, and can be ascended in small boats -twenty-five or thirty miles. A few miles below the mouth of this -stream, is a ledge of sandstone, which forms a perpendicular wall -of twenty-five or thirty feet in height, on each side of the river. -This ledge consists of square blocks of stone, of a suitable size to -be used in building, and which are rendered more valuable, from the -circumstance of their being on the banks of a large navigable river, -which with its tributaries, will facilitate its transportation to -various sections of the territory. - -A bed of iron ore has been discovered in the northeast bank of the -river immediately below this ledge; and, indeed, many of the stones in -the lower part of the ledge, have a great resemblance to blocks of cast -iron--presenting a rusty surface, very dense, and when broken, have, in -a striking degree, the color and appearance of iron itself. - -Four miles above the mouth of the Looking Glass river, is the village -of P'Shimnacon, (Apple land,) which is inhabited by eight or ten Ottawa -families, who have a number of enclosed fields in which they raise -corn, potatoes, and other vegetables usually cultivated by the Indians. -The village receives its name from Pyrus Coronaria, (Crab Apple,) which -grows in great abundance on the rich bottoms in its vicinity. Sebewa -creek puts into the river on the southwest side, one mile above this -village. It is about twenty miles long, sufficiently large for mills, -and for the last four miles is very rapid, with a hard, stony bottom. - -Looking Glass river which is about forty yards wide, rises in -Shiawassee county, and can be ascended in canoes almost to its source. -The country near this river, for fifteen miles above its mouth, is what -may be termed first rate timbered land; but above that point it is of -an inferior quality, more open, and abounding in tamerack swamps and -wet prairies. - -It is about eight miles by land from the mouth of Looking Glass to -that of Soft Maple river, which is about sixty yards wide at its -entrance into Grand river. It heads in Shiawassee and Saginaw counties, -and runs nearly a due west course until it unites with Grand river, -at the Indian village of Chigau-mish-kene. This village consists of -twenty-five houses, and has a population of near two hundred souls -under the noted chief Cocoose. Here is about one thousand acres of -bottom land, of a deep, black soil, that has been cleared by the -Indians; a part of which they still occupy as planting ground; but the -land at this village, as well as that at P'Shimnacon, has been ceded -to the United States, and will no doubt, in a short time, be occupied -by an industrious white population. There is a large trail leading -from this village, by way of Shiawassee to Detroit, a distance of one -hundred and thirty miles. - -The Grand river here changes its course; and with the exception of -twelve miles in length, below Rouge river, runs nearly a west course -to lake Michigan. - -Two miles further down, is the entrance of Muscota river, (River of the -Plains,) which comes in from the north, with a rapid current, and is -about forty feet wide. The country through which it runs is but little -known, as no lands have been surveyed north of Grand river, below Soft -Maple. - -It is eighteen miles by land from the mouth of Muscota to that of -Co-cob-au-gwosh, or Flat river, with several considerable creeks -putting into Grand river, on each side, in the intermediate distance. -Ke-wa-goosh-cum's Indian village is situate immediately below the mouth -of Flat river, and consists of sixteen lodges. It is supposed that the -line between the United States and the Indian lands will intersect the -Grand river near this place. - -Flat river is a shallow stream, about eight rods wide; and in ascending -has a general course of north by northeast. Of the country along this -river, but little is at present known. It is reported, however, to be -of a hilly, broken aspect; and many places near its source, to abound -in lakes and swamps. There is a small lake that discharges its waters -into this river, about sixty miles above its mouth, in which it is -said by the Indians, that white fish are found in great numbers--a -circumstance that is rendered more extraordinary, from the fact that -this fish has never been seen near the mouth of Grand river, although -it is often taken near the entrances of most of the other tributaries -of lake Michigan. - -It is ten miles from Flat to Thorn Apple river, which comes in from -the south, and, with its numerous tributaries, waters a large extent -of country. Its main branch rises in town two and three north of range -three west, and after running a westerly course for more than forty -miles, it takes a northward direction, in which it continues until it -empties into Grand river, in the south part of town seven north of -range two west. - -There is a suitable proportion both of open and timber land along this -stream, and a great part of each kind may be termed first rate. Two -Indian villages are situated at the distance of twenty and twenty-six -miles up this river, and another at its mouth, under the Ottawa chief -Nong-gee. The last mentioned village is inhabited by twelve or fourteen -families who are by far the most industrious and respectable band that -reside in that part of the country. - -Rouge river, is twenty miles, including the meanderings, northwest -of Thorn Apple river. It is about forty miles long, rising near the -sources of the Maskegon, and has its banks shaded by lofty forests of -white pine. From this place to Muck-a-ta-sha's village, a distance of -twelve miles, the Grand river pursues a south direction; after which it -runs nearly a due west course to lake Michigan. - -Six miles above the mouth of the last mentioned inlet, is a rapid of -one mile in length, where the river, which is here fifty-two rods wide, -is supposed to fall twenty-five feet. The banks at the head of the -rapid, are not more than four feet above the level of the river, and -they keep a horizontal level until you arrive at the foot of the rapid, -where they are nearly thirty feet above the water; and consequently -afford convenient opportunities for profitably appropriating a part -of the river, by means of a canal or sluice, to the use of mills or -machinery. - -There is a missionary establishment, (the Thomas station) at this -place, under the superintendence of the Rev. I. M'Coy. The mission -family at present consists of a school teacher, a blacksmith, and two -or three agriculturists. The school was open in the winter of 1827, and -now has about thirty Indian children, who receive their board, clothing -and tuition at the expense of the establishment. - -There is a trail leading southwest from the rapids to the Kalamazoo -river, and thence to the rivers Raisin and Huron. Another leads -directly to the mouth of Thorn Apple river, a distance of only ten -miles on the trail, but twenty-five round the curve of the river. The -country within this bend, excepting immediately along the river, is of -a rough, hilly character, a great part consisting of oak openings, of -a barren appearance, with a few scattering groves of white pine. Most -of the land, however, in the neighborhood of this tract, is of a good -quality and timbered with all kinds that usually grow on rich alluvial -soils. - -There is a salt spring four miles below the rapids, which rises out -of the ground about half a mile from the river on the east side. The -water is said to be, both as to quantity and quality, sufficient to -warrant the establishment of works for the manufacturing of that useful -article. Near this place is also a bed of gypsum, of a fine quality, -which will probably, in time, be of great importance to agriculturists -in many of the western parts of Michigan. - -Muck-a-ta-sha, or Blackskin's village, is six miles below the rapids, -and is near the bend of the river, on an elevated prairie. There is -also another village twenty miles lower down the river. From the rapids -to the lake, a distance of thirty-six miles, the river is no where less -than four feet deep. The current at the former place is too powerful -to be ascended with loaded boats. The country along the river for the -first fifteen or twenty miles above the lake is generally level, and in -many instances swampy, with lofty forests, of various kinds of timber, -and bearing an almost impenetrable thicket of undergrowth. - -The country watered by the Grand river, consists of between six and -seven thousand square miles; and considering its central position -in the territory, the general fertility of the soil on the several -branches of that stream, the convenience of a safe and good harbor at -its mouth, together with its many other important natural advantages, -we may be fully justified in the opinion, that it will, at no very -distant period, become one of the most important sections of Michigan. - - - - - SKETCH - OF THE - TEXIAN REVOLUTION. - - - - -First Campaign. - - -As the inhabitants of Texas are chiefly emigrants from the United -States, and have buckled on their armor in a contest for liberty -and independence, it is natural that Americans should feel a strong -sympathy in their behalf. The sons of freedom can never be indifferent -and unconcerned, in a struggle between liberty and despotic power, -however remote the theatre of action; but when such a war is waged by -their neighbors and friends, and Freedom the prize to be lost or won, -the deep feeling pervading American breasts, cannot be suppressed. - -When Centralism was established, the State governments annihilated, -and Santa Anna, by aid of the priests and the army, proclaimed himself -monarch of Mexico, united Texas arose as one man, to oppose the -usurpation. Although an infant of but yesterday, and but slightly -armed for battle, yet she has a vigorous arm, and a heart that will -never quail before the minions of despotic power. Relying upon the -justice of her cause, and calling upon the friends of liberty for -aid, she goes forth undismayed, to meet the giant strength of Mexico -combined.--Her call for aid, has been heard throughout the Mississippi -valley, and along the whole Atlantic coast, and has been fully -answered. Soldiers, arms, ammunition and treasure have poured into -Texas from all quarters; and in number and quantity, equal to the -exigency of the case. Texas has gloriously triumphed. The invading foe -has been completely routed--her first campaign is ended, and not a -hostile band is found upon her soil. - -In order to understand the situation of Texas, and the causes of the -present civil war, it is necessary briefly to advert to the history of -the Mexican Republic. It is well known, that the Province of Mexico had -a long and severe struggle to throw off the Spanish yoke, and to become -independent of Old Spain. At length, a constitution was formed, after -the model of that of the United States, and a Republican government -established. In 1824, Iturbide overthrew this Republican government, -established an Empire, and placed himself at its head.--His reign was -of but short duration. The army, under the lead and direction of three -military chieftains, named Victoria, Bravo and Santa Anna, the very -person who is now playing the game of Emperor, made a prisoner of -Iturbide, banished him with an annuity of twenty-five thousand dollars, -and restored the constitution. After passing a year in Europe, Iturbide -returned to Mexico to recover his Empire, but was taken prisoner and -shot. - -The republic was continued with frequent commotions and revolutions. -On one occasion Pedrassa, a civilian, was fairly elected President, -in a contest with Gen. Guerrero. Guerrero denounced Pedrassa, placed -himself at the head of the army, succeeded in expelling Pedrassa from -the country, and was made President by the force of his bayonets. -The people soon became discontented, insurrection spread over the -country, Guerrero was in turn compelled to yield, and was finally taken -prisoner, condemned and shot as a traitor. The succeeding faction -of Bustamente was in turn put down, and after various commotions by -contending factions, Santa Anna contrived, with the aid of the Army and -Clergy to unite the interests of Church and State, and to place himself -at the head of the government. The old constitution was annulled, and -Santa Anna was acknowledged as Chief of a Central Government. The State -Governments were merged in Centralism, and Santa Anna is to all intents -and purposes Monarch of Mexico. - -At this conjuncture of affairs, all the States and Territories -submitted to the overwhelming power of the Dictator, but Texas. This -province having been peopled by emigrants from the United States, by -a people accustomed to free institutions,--revolted at the idea of -despotism, and they nobly resolved not to come under the yoke, but to -establish an independent Government of their own. This is a simple -statement of the case, and their cause is one that is calculated -to enlist the sympathies of the people of this country. Since the -determination of the people of Texas has been known, it is understood -that several other Mexican States have shown disaffection to the -Central Government, and, judging from the vicissitudes of the past, it -may be safely predicted, that in the course of another year or two, -Santa Anna himself will be expelled, or shot, and the Constitution -restored. - -But lest the cause in which the Texians are now engaged, may not be -fully understood, let us state a parallel case. Suppose that the -President and Congress should abrogate the constitution of the United -States, abolish all the State governments, and establish Romanism as -the religion of the country: and if the governor of any State attempted -to exercise any authority, send an armed force to arrest and imprison -him. What would the people of the several States say to this? Would -they tamely submit, as though they had no cause of complaint; or would -they not rather, rise _en masse_, assert their rights, and put down -these high-handed usurpers, at the point of the bayonet? Most assuredly -they would. - -Many of the States have been thrown into violent commotion, and even -resorted to arms, for causes immeasurably less, than that of the -Texians. The State of Maine were aroused to a man, because the British -Government attempted to exercise jurisdiction over a strip of the -wilderness and a few log houses, on her eastern border. The State of -New-Hampshire called an army into the field, to support her doubtful -title, to the unimportant settlement of Indian Stream. The State of -Georgia rose to arms, because the Indians did not give up their lands, -quite so soon as they expected. The States of Ohio and Michigan have -long been in a feverish excitement, and have resorted to arms, on a -simply legal question, which State shall exercise jurisdiction over a -few thousand acres of land. And the people of the whole United States -were thrown into a violent commotion, on the question, whether slavery -should be tolerated in the State of Missouri. - -And can it be thought strange by Americans, so jealous of their -own rights, that the Texians are alarmed to see their constitution -annulled, their State government subverted, and all the dearest rights -which civilized man holds dear, put in jeopardy? Is it a matter of -wonder, that they have appealed to arms, cast an anxious look to -American freemen, and sent forth their spirit-stirring appeals for aid? -To such an appeal, Americans cannot turn a deaf ear; nor will they -stand with folded arms, and see the battle rage. - -Under the constitution of 1824, Mexico was a confederated republic, -after the model of the United States, having a President, Vice -President, Senate and House of Representatives, as a central -government, and separate governments for each State, and provincial -governments for certain Territories, in all material respects similar -to the institutions of this country. - -Under this organization, Texas and Coahuila were formed into one State -of the Mexican Confederacy; but as the one was settled by Americans, -and the other by Spaniards, there never has been much harmony and good -feeling between them. It has long been an object of strong desire among -the people of Texas, to be disjoined from Coahuila, and formed into -a separate State. To accomplish this desirable object, Col. Austin -was appointed an agent to the Congress at Mexico, near the close of -1833. After spending some months at the seat of government, and making -various efforts to have Texas formed into an integral State, separate -from Coahuila, despairing of being able to accomplish it, in the then -distracted state of affairs, he started to return home. He had not -proceeded far, before he was arrested on a charge of high treason, -carried back to Mexico, and imprisoned. For a time, he was kept in -close confinement; and then, let out under bonds to keep within the -limits of the city. He had been a prisoner more than a year, being -unable to obtain either a trial or a release, when the government was -subverted, and Centralism established. - -Santa Anna, becoming alarmed at the public meetings, and show of -opposition in Texas, concluded to release Col. Austin, and send him -as a special messenger, to allay the excitement. He requested him to -state to the Texians, that he felt deeply interested in their welfare; -and that in the new organization of the government, he would use his -influence to give to the people of Texas, such laws and regulations as -were suited to their habits and situation. - -Col. Austin faithfully delivered this message to the people of Texas, -at a public dinner given to welcome his return, on the eighth of -October last. But it was now too late to listen to the fair promises of -Santa Anna. The country was in a state of extraordinary excitement, and -on the eve of a revolution. Santa Anna, it seems, could threaten and -punish, as well as conciliate and persuade. He arrested the Governor -of Coahuila and Texas,--threatened an invasion--the confiscation and -sale of a large tract of settled territory--and an imposition of heavy -taxes upon the commerce of the country. The people of Texas aroused to -the defence of their constitutional rights, and to resist oppression. -They held to the constitution of 1824, and refused to adopt Centralism. -Public meetings were held in all the principal towns and villages. At -Columbia, Harrisburg, Velasco, Brazoria and San Felipe, resolutions -were adopted, expressive of indignation at the proceedings of Santa -Anna and the General Government, and of a determination to resist -them. Committees of safety were appointed, and a general convention -called. By the aid of Col. Austin and Gen. Houston of St. Augustine, -forces were organized to repel the threatened invasion. Col. Austin by -the assistance of others, raised a regiment of six or seven hundred -riflemen; and Gen. Houston, by the aid of volunteers from the United -States, was soon enabled to take the field, at the head of as many more. - -Santa Anna, in the mean time, was not idle.--He concentrated his forces -at Saltillo under the command of General Cos. After the army had become -organized and in sufficient force, Gen. Cos marched to San Antonio, and -took possession of the town. Another force was stationed at Goliad, -sixty miles south of San Antonio. - -To enforce the revenue laws, Santa Anna sent an armed schooner, -called the Correo, under the command of Capt. Thompson, to the mouth -of the Brazos river. This schooner, joined by a small armed sloop, -attacked the schooner San Felipe, a regular trader between the Brazos -and New-Orleans commanded by Capt. Hurd. This was about the first of -September. It appears from a statement signed by the passengers of the -San Felipe, that the Correo had fired at a steamboat while engaged -in lighting the American brig Tremont, lying at anchor off the bar, -previously to her attack on the San Felipe. - -As soon as the steamboat had gone inside the bar, the Correo was joined -by a small armed sloop, and both stood for the San Felipe, and opened -fire upon her without ceremony, the moment they arrived within shot. -But Captain Hurd, suspecting their intention to be of a hostile nature, -from their first appearance, and having arms on board, gallantly gave -battle and put them to flight, after a combat which lasted nearly an -hour. - -The next morning, the Correo was discovered about five miles distant, -upon which she was chased by the San Felipe, (towed by the steamboat,) -and overtaken and obliged to surrender. - -The first battle fought on the land was on the second day of October -1835, near the town of Gonzales; and from this circumstance, it has -obtained the enviable distinction, of being the Lexington of Texas. The -circumstances attending the commencement of hostilities, ought to be -stated with some minuteness. - -Some years since, when Gonzales, the capital of De Witt's Colony, -was exposed to the depredations of the Indians, the people there -applied to the authorities of San Antonio for a piece of artillery to -protect that frontier. The application was granted; and they obtained -a brass six pounder. This was kept for defence until the settlement -became strong--and afterwards it lay about the streets upon the -ground, (unmounted) and served to make a noise whenever the people got -into a merry frolic. The military commandant of San Antonio, (Col. -Ugartechea,) two or three weeks previous, feeling sufficiently strong -to make an attack upon the Colonies, demanded the gun. The people took -the matter into consideration. The gun was once the property of the -King of Spain; and he lost it with the sovereignty of the country. The -Federal Republic of Mexico became the owner. The people of Gonzales -returned for answer, in substance, that the gun was the property of -the Confederation which they acknowledged, and not of the Central -government, which they did not acknowledge; and they would not give it -up to any officer of the Central Government. - -Ugartechea ordered a detachment of his troops to march seventy-six -miles, and take the gun by force. The colonies assembled to oppose him. -Expresses were despatched to all parts of the country. The news flew -with the speed of the race horse. The people rose to arms--and marched -for the battle field. - -Gonzales is situated on the eastern bank of the river Gaudaloupe, -150 miles west of San Felipe; and on the twentieth of September, the -detachment of troops from San Antonio, about two hundred in number, -made their appearance on the western bank of the river, opposite the -town. They attempted the passage of the river, but after a sharp -skirmish, were repulsed by eighteen men, the whole force then at -Gonzales. The enemy retired a short distance, and encamped on the mound -at De Witt's. On the first of October, about 12 o'clock, they took -up their march and encamped about seven miles above this place, in a -very strong position. Suspecting that their object in this movement -was either to wait for a reinforcement from San Antonio, or to cross -at the upper crossing, about fifteen miles above, it was determined -to attack them before their plans could be carried into execution. -Accordingly, on the same night, the whole force on foot, amounting then -to about one hundred and sixty men, from the Gaudaloupe, Colorado, and -La Baca, commanded by Col. J.H. Moore, crossed the river, attacked the -enemy about day break, and put them to flight without the loss of a -single man.--Thirty or forty of the enemy were reported to have been -killed and wounded. This was a brilliant commencement of the Texian -Revolutionary War. - -The next, and more important battle, took place on the ninth of -October, and resulted in the capture of the fort and town of Goliad. -The attacking party were a company of volunteers, from the fertile -banks of the Caney, and from the town of Matagorda--a place destined to -become an important city, situated at the mouth of the Colorado river. - -Before this party entered the field, most of the volunteers were at -Gonzales--and fearing that the harvest of honors would be reaped before -they could arrive there--they struck off from La Baca with the daring -determination of taking Goliad by surprise. - -Goliad is situated on the southwest side of the San Antonio river, -thirty leagues below Bexar, and it is fifteen leagues from Copano, the -landing place of Aransas bay, and about the same distance from the La -Baca and of Matagorda bay. The fort is built upon the point of a very -steep hill, formed of rocks, with a deep ravine upon one side and a -low prairie upon the opposite--while a broad elevated prairie extends -towards the southwest. - -The walls of the fort are of stone and lime, and bear in many places -the marks of the storms of an hundred winters, but are still proof -against any thing less than the batterings of heavy artillery. - -A long forced march brought the van guard of the colonists to the San -Antonio river ford, below the town, at 11 o'clock on the night of the -ninth of October. Here they halted for the main body, and to make -arrangements for the attack. A very small party were sent into the -town, and they brought out, with the utmost secrecy, a worthy citizen -friendly to the constitution of 1824. And by his assistance guides were -produced perfectly acquainted with the place. - -The main body of the colonists missed their road in the night, -and before they found out their mistake, were at the upper ford, -immediately opposite the town. They then struck across, for a short -cut, to the position occupied by the van guard. The route lay through -a muskeet thicket. The muskeet is a tree of the locust family, full -of thorns, and at a short distance resembles the common peach tree in -size and appearance. While the parties were treading their way in this -thicket, the horse of one of them started in affright at an object -beneath a bush. The rider checked his horse and said, who's there? A -voice answered in Spanish. One of the party supposed that he recognized -in the voice an old acquaintance of Goliad, asked if it was not he, -mentioning his name. "No," was the reply, "my name is Milam." - -Col. Milam is a native of Kentucky. At the commencement of the -Mexican war of independence, he engaged in the cause, and assisted in -establishing the independence of the country. When Iturbide assumed the -purple, Milam's republican principles placed him in fetters--dragged -him to the city of Mexico, and confined him in prison until the usurper -was dethroned. When Santa Anna assumed the dictatorship, the republican -Milam was again thrust into the prison at Monterry. But his past -services and sufferings wrought upon the sympathies of his hard-hearted -jailors. - -They allowed him the luxury of the bath. He profited by the indulgence -and made arrangements with an old compatriot, to place a fleet horse -suitably equipped upon the bank of the stream, at a time appointed. -The colonel passed the sentinel as he was wont to go into the -water--walked quietly on--mounted the horse and fled. - -Four hundred miles would place him in safety. The noble horse did his -duty, and bore the colonel clear of all pursuit to the place where the -party surprised him. At first he supposed himself in the power of his -enemy--but the English language soon convinced him, that he was in the -midst of his countrymen. - -He had never heard that Texas was making an effort to save herself. -No whisper of the kind had been allowed to pass the grates of his -prison.--When he learned the object of the party, his heart was full. -He could not speak for joy. - -When the company arrived at the lower ford, they divided themselves -into four parties of twelve men each. One party remained as a guard -with the horses. The other three, each with a guide, marched by -different routes to the assault. - -Their axes hewed down the door where the colonel commanding the place -slept--and he was taken a prisoner from his bed. A sentinel hailed, -and fired. A rifle ball laid him dead upon the spot.--The discharge of -fire arms and the noise of human voices now became blended. The Mexican -soldiers fired from their quarters, and the blaze of their guns served -as targets for the colonist riflemen. - -The garrison were called to surrender, and the call was translated by a -gentleman present, who spoke the language. They asked for terms. - -The interpreter now became the chief speaker. 'No,' answered he. -'They say they will massacre every one of you, unless you come out -immediately and surrender. Come out--come out quick--I cannot keep -them back--come out, if you wish to save your lives--I can keep them -back no longer.' 'O, do for God's sake keep them back,' answered -the Mexicans in their own language. 'We will come out and surrender -immediately,'--and they rushed out with all possible speed and laid -down their arms. - -And thus was the fort of Goliad taken--a fort which, with a garrison of -three hundred and fifty patriots in the war of 1812-13, withstood the -siege of an army of more than two thousand Spanish troops, and forced -them to retire, discomfited. - -At the capture of the fort, three Mexican soldiers were killed and -seven wounded; and one colonel, one captain, one lieutenant, with -twenty-one petty officers and privates were made prisoners--others of -the garrison escaped in the dark and fled. - -In the fort were found two pieces of brass cannon, five hundred muskets -and carbines, six hundred spears, with ammunition and provisions. - -One of the colonists, only, was wounded in the shoulder. - -Col. Milam assisted in the capture of the fort, and then he spoke:--"I -assisted Mexico to gain her independence; I have spent more than twenty -years of my life in her service; I have endured heat and cold, hunger -and thirst; I have borne losses and suffered persecutions; I have been -a tenant of every prison between this and Mexico--but the events of -this night have compensated me for all my losses and all my sufferings." - -The colonists were commanded by Gen. M. Collingsworth--but it would be -difficult to find in the company, a man not qualified for the command. - -Goliad is of vastly more importance in a military point of view, than -San Antonio, as the latter is in a valley upon the banks of the river, -and commanded by the hills on each side, and is therefore indefensible. - -The news of the capture of Goliad was hailed with enthusiastic joy -throughout Texas. A general enthusiasm prevailed. Col. Austin, elected -General of the volunteer forces, made his head quarters at Gonzales, -one hundred and fifty miles west of San Felipe, and seventy-five miles -east of San Antonio. A declaration of rights under the constitution of -1824 was published, and circulated throughout the country. - -On the thirteenth of October, Gen. Austin, as commander-in-chief, left -Gonzales with the main army, for San Antonio. On the twentieth, a -division arrived at Salada, within five miles of San Antonio. On their -march, they came in contact with the advanced guard of the enemy, who -retired at their approach. On the twenty-seventh, a detachment of Gen. -Cos' cavalry, out on a foraging expedition, were attacked by a party -of Texians, and by them defeated with the loss of thirty-five horses, -and suffering in killed and wounded to the number of fifty men. The -loss of the Texians, three men slightly wounded. - -Cos' detachment of cavalry consisted of about one hundred and fifty -men, which, before the engagement was concluded, were re-inforced by -one hundred and fifty infantry; the party of Texians employed in the -assault amounting to about the same number. - -On the twenty-eighth, a detachment of ninety men, under the command of -Col. Jas. Bowie and Capt. Fanning, advanced and took possession of a -church, within a mile and a half of San Antonio. The Mexicans to the -number of three hundred cavalry and one hundred infantry, under the -command of Col. Utartacher, sallying out from the city, made an attack -upon Bowie's forces, and after an engagement of three hours duration, -were repulsed with the loss of one piece of artillery and forty -muskets, leaving eighteen men dead upon the field. The only loss on the -side of the Texians, was one man mortally wounded, and a few horses. -The main body of the army came up soon after the enemy had retired. - -Gen. Austin, that there might be no mistake respecting the principles -upon which he acted, sent a communication to Gen. Cos, by a Mexican, -stating that he was supporting the principles of the constitution of -1824, and inquiring how his flag would be received? His reply was, -"disband your forces, return home peaceably, and then perhaps I will -listen to your petitions; at present I can only regard you as rebels -and traitors." - -In the mean time, something like a regular army, composed of Texians -and volunteer companies from the United States, was organized, and Gen. -Houston, formerly Governor of Tennessee, and for some years a resident -in Texas, was appointed the commander. On his arrival at Gonzales, the -force under his command amounted to about a thousand men. - -The Texian army, at length, concentrated their forces, and besieged -the town of San Antonio.--This is a walled town, containing three -thousand five hundred inhabitants. Gen. Cos found himself in a critical -situation. His army amounted to about a thousand men, but the besieging -army pressed him so close, he was obliged to keep within the walls of -the town. He soon became in want of provisions, but he was too closely -watched to obtain a supply. The besiegers believing he would be forced -to surrender without a battle, concluded patiently to wait the event. - -In this state of the case, it was thought advisable to send -commissioners to the United States, with plenary power to negotiate -loans, &c., in preparation for another campaign. Gen. Austin and -Messrs. Archer and Wharton were accordingly appointed. Edward -Burlisson was elected to fill the vacancy occasioned by the resignation -of Gen. Austin, and W.H. Jack was promoted to the second in command. - -The commissioners immediately left the army, and proceeded to the -United States. They arrived at New-Orleans on the third day of January, -and succeeded in effecting a loan there of two hundred thousand -dollars. They then started up the Mississippi river, intending to visit -the seat of government at Washington. - -The Texian army besieged San Antonio more than a month; during which -time, the Mexican forces were confined strictly within the walls of the -city. The moment a sentinel ventured without, he was shot by some of -the riflemen. The garrison became almost destitute of provisions, and -the surrender of the place was anticipated daily. - -At this juncture, news arrived, that a large reinforcement of Mexican -troops were near at hand, to relieve the garrison. This determined the -besieging army to storm the city immediately. It was on the sixth day -of December last, when the assault commenced. The brave Col. Milam, -at the head of three hundred choice troops, led the attack.--The -assault was so sudden and vehement, that neither walls nor men could -successfully oppose it. After a sharp conflict, in which the assailants -performed wonders, the city was gallantly taken, and the garrison -made prisoners. This had hardly been accomplished, when the Mexican -reinforcement came up, just in time to lay down their arms to the -victors. By this victory, twelve hundred men were made prisoners; and -the Texians obtained two thousand stands of arms, thirty pieces of -cannon, and a large amount of military stores, camp-equipments and -horses, estimated to be worth five hundred thousand dollars. The loss -of the enemy in killed and wounded, we have never seen stated;--on the -part of the Texians, fifteen were wounded, and the brave Col. Milam -and four others, killed. Col. Milam was mainly instrumental in the -complete success of the assault, and fell a victim to his own zeal and -intrepidity. The death of this estimable man, turned the joy of victory -into sadness. Like the lamented Warren of Bunker Hill, he fell early in -his country's struggle for independence;--and like him, his untimely -exit was deeply deplored. - -A native of Kentucky, he possessed in an eminent degree, the chivalry -and noble bearing, so conspicuous in the land of his birth. In early -life, he left his native State. He was the intrepid commander of the -steamboat, that first threaded the mazes of Red river, beyond the -great raft. At the commencement of the severe contest in Mexico, to -throw off the Spanish yoke, he was engaged in her cause. In the many -sanguinary battles with the armies of Spain and savage Indians, during -that long and bloody war, he was engaged, and shone conspicuous. A -noble spirited and an unyielding patriot himself, he found at last, -to his sorrow and regret, that the people, whom he aided to establish -independence, were unworthy of the cause in which they were engaged. -They did not understand the true principles of liberty, and knew not -the value of its blessings. No sooner were they freed from foreign -oppression, than anarchy and confusion reigned at home. Revolutions and -counter-revolutions rapidly succeeded each other; and the unyielding -Milam, alternately became a favorite and a prisoner. He had so many -times been arrested and released, that he had been a tenant of every -prison, from Texas to the city of Mexico. When restored to favor, by a -fortunate turn of the revolutionary wheel, rewards were offered him. -But his sufferings only were real; his rewards but mocked his vision. -Like the rainbow in the heavens, they fled at his approach. - -Years ago, he obtained a grant for a colony, on the south bank of the -beautiful Colorado, a hundred miles from its mouth; but before he could -make arrangements for its settlement, the grant was annulled, and he -imprisoned. Misfortune seems to have marked him for her game. For a -series of years, as if the intention were to mock and tantalize him, -his grant would be alternately cancelled and confirmed. - -Near the close of the year 1834, when the writer of this sketch saw him -in Texas, his grant had been renewed under favorable auspices, and the -prospect before him appeared unusually flattering. But it was only the -calm, bright sunshine, that precedes the tempest. He had hardly made -arrangements to people his colony, and settle down in quiet repose, -after so many years of disappointment, toil and suffering, when another -revolution brought Santa Anna into power, and the patriot Milam was -again arrested and thrust into the prison of Monterry! - -But in all the changes of fortune, whether favorable or adverse, he -never abjured his principles.--The unconquerable love of liberty, that -animated him throughout his whole career, never once forsook him. His -spirit never quailed before the minions of power--his courage never -abated--and his vigorous arm never tired. - -By stratagem, he escaped from his prison, just in time to render -efficient aid in the capture of Goliad; and then, he hastened on to -San Antonio, where he gloriously fell in the arms of victory--a martyr -to the cause he had, with a steady aim, so nobly espoused and ably -defended. But his memory will live in the hearts of a gallant people; -and, in after times, his name will be duly honored in the celebration -of their victories, and in their songs of triumph. - -The capture of San Antonio completed the triumph of the Texian -arms. Not an armed Mexican soldier could then be found in her -territory.--Gen. Cos was released on his parole of honor, not to serve -during the war, unless regularly exchanged; the other officers and -soldiers were retained prisoners of war. - -We have now given an account of all the battles fought within the -limits of Texas; but it may be proper to add some account of Gen. -Mexia's expedition against Tampico. - -On the sixth day of November last, one hundred and thirty men, chiefly -Americans, embarked at New-Orleans on board the schooner Mary Jane for -Texas. It was understood, that this vessel had been chartered by a -committee, to convey emigrants to that country; and on their arrival, -it was to be optional with them, whether they joined the Texian army, -or not. Gen. Mexia and his staff were on board this vessel: but no -intimation was given to the passengers, that the vessel had any other -destination than Texas, until they arrived off the port of Tampico. -They were then told, by Capt. Hawkins, one of Gen. Mexia's aids, that -the object was to capture Tampico--and the passengers were urged to -join the General's standard. About fifty only, most of whom were -French and Creoles of New-Orleans, were induced to join his standard. -A steamboat took the vessel in tow, but, in attempting to run into -the port in the night, they both struck the north breakers. In this -critical situation, efforts were made to land the passengers, which -at much risk was at length effected, during the latter part of the -night and early in the morning. The fort, at the mouth of the harbor, -surrendered without an attack. Arms and ammunition were then tendered -to the party. Some took them from curiosity, some from necessity, -and others on compulsion. Most of the Americans, on account of the -deception practiced upon them, in landing at Tampico instead of Texas, -were determined not to fight, but to surrender themselves prisoners the -first opportunity. - -The next day, the party, to the number of one hundred and eighty, -marched to attack the town; but meeting with a warmer reception than -they expected, they retreated to the fort. Here they found about thirty -missing--all but two or three having deserted on the retreat. The -General, deeming it advisable to leave the place, embarked with his men -on board the schooner Halcyon, bound to Brazoria in Texas. - -The deserters were taken prisoners the next day, by a company of -horse, and imprisoned. After remaining in prison about a month, they -were tried by a court martial; and although all these facts appeared -at the trial, they were all condemned to be shot! Some attempts were -made to avert their fate. A petition, signed by the prisoners and a -number of Mexicans, was sent to the Commandant of the place, but it -availed nothing. The sentence of death was promulgated to these hapless -victims of treachery, on the afternoon of Saturday; and at sunrise the -succeeding Monday, which was the fourteenth day of December, they were -all brought out of prison, and shot! Twenty-eight men, many of them -mere youths, in a distant land, far away from friends, at a few hours -notice, butchered in cold blood! Humanity recoils at the perpetration -of such barbarous deeds as this. Such summary proceedings, dictated by -savage vengeance, cannot, on any ground, be either justified or excused. - -But such has been the character of the wars in South America, ever -since the Spanish Colonies strove to shake off the yoke of dependence, -for more than a quarter of a century. A war of extermination was -carried on by the Spaniards and the Patriots--no quarter was granted in -the field--the blood of prisoners was shed like water--and a recital -of the wanton cruelties and barbarities committed by both parties, -during this state of protracted hostility, would cause even the savage -to shudder with horror. These circumstances, as well as the whole -course of conduct of the Spaniards, in relation to the inhabitants of -the Leeward Islands, Mexico and Peru, are enough to establish their -character as the most cruel and sanguinary people on earth. - -We have mentioned that a large number of volunteers from the United -States had gone to Texas, to aid the people in their struggle for -independence. Three companies, numbering more than five hundred men, -went from New-Orleans. Cincinnati, Natchez and Mobile, each furnished -a company.--And travellers state that they met small parties of -volunteers, continually on the road, hurrying on to assist the -Texians. Many of these arrived in time to be of much service in the -last campaign; but one company, from the city of New-York, owing to -the misconduct of a portion of them, were detained on the way; and, -probably, have not arrived in Texas. - -This party was Col. Stanly's regiment of volunteers, amounting to about -two hundred men. They started from New-York in the brig Madawaska, -about the middle of November. After ten day's sail, they found -themselves among the Bahama banks and islands. The Captain of the -brig, never having sailed the route before, became bewildered among -the islands. At length he made a harbor at the island of Eleuthera, -and sent a boat on shore containing seventeen men. On the island, they -found the inhabitants to consist principally of blacks. Having indulged -themselves pretty freely in spirits, and finding the inhabitants rather -weak and ignorant, they commenced hostilities upon their effects, such -as fowls, pigs, Indian meal, &c., and so terrified the people, that -they would do whatever they required. They commanded them with loaded -pistols at their heads, and threatened them with instant death if they -disobeyed. - -This indiscreet conduct of course occasioned an excited feeling, on -being made known at the English naval station at Nassau, and two gun -ships were immediately sent in pursuit, with strict orders to board -and put all to death, if any resistance was made. After cruising about -a week, one of the ships came up with the Madawaska, and made them -all prisoners, on a charge of piracy. They were carried into the port -of Nassau in New-Providence, and there put in prison. In the course -of a week, the matter was fully investigated, which resulted in the -discharge of all but Col. Stanley and ten others, who were detained -to await their trial for felony. The result of this trial is not now -known; but if found guilty, the punishment by the English laws is known -to be severe. - -The remaining incidents worthy of note, connected with the Texian -Revolution, may be stated in a few words. The General Consultation -convened at San Felipe on the fifteenth of October.--An address to the -people of the United States was adopted, appealing to our citizens for -aid. Strong appeals were also made by the Council to the patriotism -of the people of Texas. The Council then adjourned to the first of -November; but the people were so much engaged on the frontier, that no -meeting was held at that time. - -On the twenty-second day of December, a document was published at -Goliad, signed by a great number of persons, chiefly Americans, -declaring Texas "_a free, sovereign and independent State_." The -declaration enters somewhat at length into the condition of Texas, -deplores the leniency of the Texian government in permitting Cos to -capitulate, and affirms that many of the officers, civil and military, -are more ambitious of emoluments, than the good of the country. It -is furthermore stated, that there is more danger from the corrupting -influence of Santa Anna's gold, than from his bayonets. The necessity -of forming an independent sovereign State immediately, in order that -all her energies may be concentrated, is pointed out with great force. - -On the twenty-sixth of December, a decree of the provincial -Government was published, calling a Convention of Delegates from each -municipality, clothed with ample powers to adopt a permanent form of -government. The Delegates to be elected by the people; all free white -males, and Mexicans opposed to a central government, being entitled to -vote; and the volunteers in the army being allowed to vote by proxy. -The whole number of Delegates to be fifty-six, and the Convention to be -held at the town of Washington on the first of March. - -The Texians have been very active in raising an army to commence -another campaign; and it is believed, Gen. Houston was able to take -the field on the first of March, at the head of five or six thousand -men. The Texians, it is said, are in regular correspondence with -the large party in Mexico opposed to centralism. The whole republic -seems to be in a ferment. Gen. Mexia, who set out for Matamoras some -weeks ago, at the head of a considerable force, intending to invade -the Mexican territory, was believed to have made himself master of -Tampico, whence he would act in concert with the Texians on the north, -and the revolting Mexicans on the south. It was currently reported at -Metamoras, that several of the most influential officers in the Mexican -army, had openly denounced centralism, and the state of things in the -republic was such, that Santa Anna would either be obliged to return to -the federal system, or abandon all hopes of power in Mexico. - -The true state of affairs in Mexico, however, it is difficult to -ascertain. There are only twenty-seven newspapers in the country, all -of which are in a state of subjection to Santa Anna. The only two -opposition journals were suppressed: the editor of one was banished to -California, to enjoy "the wolf's loud howl on Onolaska's shore;" the -other, Santangele, in spite of his name, was sent to the United States. - -The Supreme Government, under date of the thirtieth of December, caused -the following decree to be published and circulated in every district -of the Republic. - -"ART. 1. All foreigners that may land in any port of the Republic, or -shall make their way into the interior, armed and with the intention -of attacking her territory, shall be regarded and punished as pirates, -considering that they do not belong to any nation at war with the -Republic, and that they do not act under any recognized flag. - -"ART. 2. Foreigners that land in any of our ports, or seek to introduce -arms and ammunition by land through any channel in a state of -insurrection against the government of the nation, and with the avowed -object of placing such implements of war in the hands of her enemies, -shall be treated and punished in the same manner." - -This decree will not be worth, to Santa Anna, the paper on which it is -written. It will not deter a single individual from carrying arms and -ammunition into Texas, or of joining its army. The sanguinary character -of the Spaniards is too well known and established, to ask or expect -any thing like clemency at their hands. The Americans needed not a -decree under hand and seal, to apprise them of the true character of -the Mexicans, when the history of the last twenty-five years is fresh -in remembrance. - -An embargo has also been laid, by order of the Mexican government, on -the ports of Tampico and Metamoras, against Mexican vessels; and on all -the ports of Mexico against American ships. No ingress nor egress from -the ports is now permitted. The foolish expedition planned by Mexia may -have led to this resort, as well as the state of affairs in Texas. - -Santa Anna, believing that the permanency of his own power depends -upon the subjugation of Texas, is actively engaged in raising troops -for another campaign. It is reported that three or four thousand men, -under the command of Gen. Urrea, are on their way to the frontier. It -is also reported, that he has called to his aid the Comanches and other -tribes of Indians; and persuaded them to declare war against Texas; and -has promised them the territory of Texas as a reward. The Indians have -known the Spaniards too long to place any reliance upon their promises. -They may, indeed, excite them to a war; but it is as likely to prove -as disastrous to themselves, as to the Texians. The Indians are unsafe -allies. Like the war-elephants of ancient times, they often injure -friends more than foes. It is certain, that a deadly hatred has existed -for a long series of years, between the Spaniards and Indians; and it -is believed, no permanent friendship or alliance can be formed between -them. They have much more friendship for the Americans, than for the -Spaniards; and if they call them into action, it may prove disastrous -only to themselves. The Indians are as hard to direct and control, as -a fire on their own boundless prairies. The fire, uncontrolled by him -who kindles it, sweeps over the plain, where the wind happens to drive; -so the wild Indian, regardless of friend or foe, hurries on to kill and -plunder, where his savage fury happens to impel him. But on another -ground, Santa Anna had better take heed. Exciting the Indians to kill -and plunder, is a game that two can play at. The Texians have greater -rewards to offer. They can promise them _all Mexico_, with its many -victims and much plunder. - -In conformity to the custom of nations, the Texians have adopted a -flag. It contains a number of stripes, and but a single star; and -has inscribed upon it the significant word, 'INDEPENDENCE.' On the -twenty-second day of January, the New-Orleans Greys paraded at their -encampment, near the mouth of the Brazos river, to display and honor -their flag. At the discharge of a signal gun, William Walker, of -Portsmouth, N.H., who signalized himself at the capture of San Antonio, -had the honor of running it up, for the first time, on a stately -flag-staff. The company presented arms, and fired a salute. Just at -this time, a volunteer company, on board the steamboat Yellow Stone, -from New-Orleans, came up the river, hailed the waving banner, fired -a salute, and gave three cheers as they passed. The arrival of such -efficient aid, at the moment the national flag was first unfurled, -was deemed a happy omen; and that it may continue to wave over Texas, -_independent_ and _free_, is the fervent wish of every true son of -freedom. - -Post offices and mail routes have been established, and a Post Master -General appointed. The length of all these mail routes, taken together, -amount to about eight hundred miles. For a number of years, there has -been no mail connection between the United States and Texas; but as -the communication is now so great, regular mails will be established -between them. - -Texas is in a critical situation; but it is believed, her cause is far -from being desperate. Were Mexico united, and could she bring all her -force to bear upon the contest, with the activity and zeal of American -freemen, Texas would be crushed at a blow. Santa Anna's journals do -indeed say, that the whole country is united in the present form of -government, and perfect tranquillity prevails; but private letters -contradict this statement altogether. They inform us, that Generals -Bravo and Alvarez had united, taken the important town of Acapulco, on -the Pacific, denounced Santa Anna, and declared for the constitution. -In consequence of this movement, one hundred and fifty mules loaded -with money and ammunition, and five hundred men left the city of Mexico -for that quarter, about the last of January. It was believed, this news -would bring Santa Anna from Saltillo to the seat of government. - -From all accounts, it appears certain, that the Mexican army, three -thousand strong, have left their encampment at Saltillo, for the -frontier of Texas. It is formed into two divisions, the one commanded -by Sesma; the other, by Cos, and the chief in command is Gen. Urrea. It -is reported that a simultaneous attack upon Goliad and San Antonio, is -meditated. It is highly probable, the Texians are fully prepared for -their reception, and will be able to give a good account of them. - -The thin settled State of Texas, with a population of some fifty -thousand, comparatively, without arms and resources, and having no -organized government, engaging in a war with sixteen States, with a -population of eight millions, reminds one of the stripling David, going -out in the valley of Elah, to give battle to the Philistine of Gath. -It requires an unusual degree of boldness and daring, to form the -resolution, and to commence a war, with such an immense disparity of -force. But the race is not always to the swift, nor the battle to the -strong. - -The Texians, and the gallant spirits that have hastened to their aid -and rescue, compared in number with their enemy, are indeed but a -handful of men; but, like the Spartan band of former times, they have -lion-hearts and vigorous arms. What men dare, they dare! They have -staked their all upon the issue. They have drawn the sword, and thrown -away the scabbard. Exterminated they may be, but not subdued. Before -such a band, numbers are of no avail; before such opponents, well may -tyrants tremble. - -The first campaign has ended in the complete overthrow of the Mexican -force, in Texas. The whole course of the campaign has been signally -marked by a series of battles, and almost bloodless victories, on the -part of the Texians; and by continued defeat, loss and discomfiture on -the part of their enemy. The Mexicans have lost much, in men, arms and -treasure; and have won nothing but disgrace. Of honor, they had none to -lose. - -Santa Anna has thousands of men at his command, but they do not possess -the chivalrous spirit of the sons of freedom. Judging from the past, -_his_ career may be short; but as his subjects know not the value of -liberty, and are not sufficiently educated for its rational enjoyment, -a long list of tyrants may rapidly succeed him. But light begins to -break in upon that benighted corner of the earth. The goddess of -liberty, who in former times tried her infant voice in the halls and -on the hills of New-England, utters it now, with a power that seems -to wake the dead, on the plains of Mexico, and along the sides of the -Andes. - -On the part of the Texians, the struggle may be long and severe. They -may be compelled to fight battle after battle, and obtain victory after -victory; and suffer also, many reverses and defeats, before the scene -of this awful tragedy closes. But it is confidently believed, that they -will finally succeed in their effort, to become an independent nation, -and to establish a free, elective government, based upon the equal -rights of the people. - - - - -Second Campaign. - - -The second campaign commenced much sooner than was generally expected. -It was believed by the Texians, that after the complete and signal -overthrow of the Mexican forces in the first campaign, Santa Anna would -not be able to raise another invading army, and make his appearance -in Texas, before midsummer. In this, they were mistaken. Santa Anna, -believing that the stability of his own government depended upon a -vigorous prosecution of the war, by extraordinary exertions, raised an -army of five thousand men, and by forced marches was enabled to make -his appearance in Texas about the twentieth of February. This early and -unexpected appearance of an invading army, accounts for the fact, that -the Texians were so illy prepared for their reception. - -On the twenty third of February, Santa Anna, who, contrary to general -expectation, commanded in person, appeared before the town of San -Antonio, at the head of the advanced division of his army, amounting -to a thousand men. At this time, less than two thousand Texians were -in arms in the whole province. Of these, only a hundred and fifty -men, under the command of Col. W.B. Travis, were stationed at San -Antonio--five hundred men, under Col. Fanning, were at Goliad, a -hundred and twenty-five miles to the south; and one thousand men, under -Gen. Houston, at Gonzales, sixty miles to the east of this position. - -San Antonio de Bexar is situated on a branch of the San Antonio river, -which is here but a small stream, that can easily be crossed by slight -wooden bridges. Most of the dwelling houses are on the west side of the -river, but the fort is on the east side. This fort, called the Alamo, -or Elm Tree fort, covers two acres of ground, and is surrounded by a -thick stone wall, twenty feet high. Its position was injudiciously -selected. It is situated in a valley, having elevated positions in the -rear, from which balls may be thrown directly into the fort. It may -therefore, be deemed an indefensible fortress. - -On the arrival of this division, Santa Anna took possession of the -town, and demanded an unconditional surrender of the fort, or the whole -garrison would indiscriminately be put to the sword. The intrepid -Col. Travis answered this demand by a cannon shot. Immediately, a -bombardment from a five inch howitzer, and a heavy cannonade commenced, -which was continued for twenty-four hours. This was sustained by the -Texians without the loss of a single man, while they made a terrible -slaughter in the ranks of their besiegers. From five to six hundred of -the enemy are reported to have been killed and wounded. - -About this time, a party of seventy men, under the command of Col. -Johnson, while reconnoitering to the westward of San Patricio, were -surrounded in the night, by a large body of Mexican troops. In the -morning, the commander sent in a summons to surrender at discretion, -which was refused; but an offer was made to surrender as prisoners of -war. This was acceded to by the Mexican officer; but no sooner had -the party marched out of their encampment, and stacked their arms, -than the mean, cowardly, blood-thirsty Mexicans commenced a general -fire upon the defenceless prisoners! An attempt was made to escape by -flight--three only effected it, among whom was Col. Johnson--the others -were shot down and basely murdered. - -On the twenty-fifth of February, an assault was made upon the fort, an -account of which, we give in the words of Col. Travis' despatch to Gen. -Houston:-- - -"To-day at ten o'clock, A.M. some two or three hundred crossed the -river below, and came up under cover of the houses, until they arrived -within point blank shot, when we opened a heavy discharge of grape and -canister on them, together with a well directed fire from small arms, -which forced them to halt and take shelter in the houses about eighty -or a hundred rods from our batteries. The action continued to rage for -about two hours, when the enemy retreated in confusion, dragging off -their dead and wounded. - -During the action, the enemy kept up a continual bombardment, and -discharge of balls, grape and canister. We know from observation, that -many of the enemy were killed and wounded--while we, on our part, have -not lost a man. Two or three of our men have been slightly scratched -by pieces of rock, but not disabled. I take great pleasure in stating, -that both officers and men, conducted themselves with firmness and -bravery.--Lieut. Simmons of the Cavalry, acting as Infantry, and -Captains Carey and Dickerson and Blair of the Artillery, rendered -essential services, and Chas. Despallier and Robert Brown, gallantly -sallied out and set fire to the houses, which afforded the enemy -shelter, in the face of the enemy's fire. Indeed the whole of the men, -who were brought into action, conducted themselves with such undaunted -heroism, that it would be injustice to discriminate. The Hon. David -Crockett was seen at all points, animating the men to do their duty. -Our numbers are few, and the enemy still continues to approximate his -works to ours. I have every reason to apprehend an attack from his -whole force very soon. But I shall hold out to the last extremity." - -On the first of March, thirty-two men from Gonzales, forced their way -through the enemy's lines, and entered the fort--increasing the number -to one hundred and eighty-two. Between the twenty-fifth of February and -the fifth of March, the Mexicans were employed in erecting breastworks -around the fort, bombarding the place and battering the walls. On the -second of March, Col. Travis wrote, that more than two hundred shells -had been thrown into the fort without injuring a man. - -In the mean time, the Mexicans continued to receive re-enforcements. -The whole force amounted to about forty-five hundred men. It consisted -of forty companies of Infantry, numbering about seventy men each, -under Generals Sesma and Cos; and fifteen hundred Cavalry, under Gen. -Felisolas; and the whole commanded by Santa Anna in person. - -On the sixth of March, about midnight, a general assault was made upon -the fort by the entire Mexican force. The walls were weak, the balls -from the batteries had passed through them, and, in some places, had -become somewhat dilapidated. The cavalry surrounded the fort, and the -infantry, well supplied with scaling ladders attempted to enter the -fort on all sides at the same time. - -The Texians fought desperately until daylight, when seven only of -the garrison were found alive. We regret to say, that Col. David -Crockett and his companion Mr. Benton, also the gallant Col. Benham -of South-Carolina, were of the number who cried for quarter, but -they were told that there was no mercy for them. They then continued -fighting until the whole were butchered. One woman (Mrs. Dickinson) -and a wounded negro servant of Col. Travis, were the only persons in -the Alamo whose lives were spared. Col. Bowie was murdered in his bed, -sick and helpless. Gen. Cos, on entering the fort ordered Col. Travis' -servant to point out to him the body of his master; he did so, when -Cos drew his sword and mangled his face and limbs with the malignant -feeling of a savage. - -The bodies of the slain were thrown into a heap in the centre of the -Alamo and burned. On Col. Bowie's body being brought out, Gen. Cos said -that he was too brave a man to be burned like a dog; then added,--never -mind, throw him in. The loss of the Mexicans in storming the place -was estimated at no less than one thousand men killed and mortally -wounded, and as many more disabled--making, with their loss in the -first assault, between two and three thousand killed and wounded. It -is worthy of remark that the flag of Santa Anna's army at Bexar was a -_blood red one_, in place of the old constitutional tri-colored flag. -Immediately after the capture of the place, Gen. Santa Anna sent Mrs. -Dickinson and Col. Travis' servant to Gen. Houston's camp, accompanied -by a Mexican with a flag, who was bearer of a note from Santa Anna, -offering the Texians peace and a general amnesty, if they would lay -down their arms and submit to his government. Gen. Houston's reply was, -"True sir, you have succeeded in killing some of our brave men, but the -Texians are not yet conquered." - -Thus fell the brave defenders of San Antonio. Among the heroes, who -perished in the unequal conflict, were Col. W.B. Travis, Col. Jas. -Bowie and Col. David Crockett, formerly a member of Congress from -the State of Tennessee--every one of whom was himself a host. By a -comparison of dates, it appears that this little garrison of one -hundred and eighty-two men, held out eleven days against the repeated -attacks of an army amounting at last, by constant re-enforcements, to -five thousand men. All that the most determined bravery could achieve, -was accomplished by the besieged. Although worn down by fatigue and -want of sleep, which the continual alarms and discharges of artillery -rendered nearly impossible, while the more numerous besiegers could -relieve each other, the brave band in the fort did not die unavenged. -In the various attacks from first to last, it is probable that they -destroyed of the enemy, eight or ten times their own number. The -history of their achievements and sufferings, in this memorable siege, -may never be known in detail; but enough is revealed to immortalize -the names of these martyrs in the cause of liberty, and to stamp with -eternal infamy and disgrace their remorseless besiegers. Something of -the chivalrous spirit that animated and sustained this truly Spartan -band during this trying occasion, may be seen by the despatch of Col. -Travis, addressed to his fellow citizens and compatriots, during the -siege. He says, "I shall defend myself to the last extremity, and die -as becomes a soldier. I never intend to retreat or surrender. VICTORY -OR DEATH." - -This was the first victory obtained by the Mexicans; and the slaughter -of the whole garrison confirmed, what was before suspected, that the -contest on their part, was to be a war of extermination. No quarter is -to be given, or only granted to be violated. The bloody butcheries of -defenceless prisoners, as might have been expected, had the opposite -effect intended. Instead of striking terror and dismay into the ranks -of the Texians, and palsying their efforts, it only served to arouse -and awaken them into more vigorous action. Every man, capable of -bearing arms, shouldered his rifle, and marched in double quick time -to the theatre of war. The news caused a general excitement throughout -the United States. New-Orleans exhibited all the hurry and bustle of a -camp; and the western and southern riflemen, by hundreds and fifties, -hurried on to the scene of slaughter, to avenge the death of their -murdered countrymen. - -The character of Gen. Cos stands out in bold relief, as the meanest -of the mean. When he and his command were made prisoners of war by -the Texians on this very spot of his present savage triumphs, they -were humanely treated, and suffered to return home on their parole of -honor. This solemn pledge, universally acknowledged and observed by -all civilized nations, and all honorable men, Cos has seen fit to -disregard. He again appears in arms, and has forfeited his parole of -honor. He now stands before the world, in the character of an outlaw. -But, as if this were not sufficient to brand his name with infamy, -he seemed determined that his actions should be in perfect keeping -with his degraded sense of honor; so as to exhibit to the world, the -humiliating spectacle of a character entirely perfect in treachery -and baseness. Therefore, instead of waging war according to the rules -of civilized nations, he basely murdered the sick in their beds, and -mutilated the bodies of the slain; and instead of decently burying -the dead, he threw their bodies into a heap and burnt them like dogs! -A fit instrument, in the hands of Santa Anna, to teach the people -of Texas, the blessings of Centralism! But it does not require much -forecast to predict, that the Mexicans have kindled a flame at St. -Antonio, that many waters will not be able to quench,--that the day -of severe retribution and bloody vengeance is nigh. And when it shall -have arrived, where will be the voice to plead for such remorseless -murderers as these! - -On the second day of March, the people of Texas, by their delegates, -made a declaration of Independence. It is called, "the unanimous -declaration of Independence, made by the Delegates of the People of -Texas, in General Convention, made at the town of Washington, on the -second day of March, 1836." It is an able state paper, written with -much spirit and vigor; but, in gracefulness of style and force of -expression, it does not equal its model--the celebrated Declaration -of Independence of the United States, from the polished pen of a -Jefferson. It contains a statement of grievances, which is submitted to -an impartial world, in justification of the hazardous but unavoidable -step, of severing their connection with the Mexican people, and of -assuming an independent attitude among the nations of the earth. As it -is too long to be inserted in this sketch, the following extract, which -of itself contains a sufficient reason for the 'hazardous step' taken, -must suffice. - -"The Mexican government, by its colonization laws, invited and induced -the Anglo-American population of Texas, to colonize the wilderness, -under the pledged faith of a written constitution, that they should -continue to enjoy that constitutional liberty and republican government -to which they had been habituated in the land of their birth, the -United States of America. In this expectation, they have been cruelly -disappointed--as the Mexican nation has acquiesced in the late changes -made in the government by General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna; who, -having overturned the constitution of this country, now offers us the -cruel alternative, either to abandon our own homes, acquired by so -many privations, or submit to the most intolerable of all tyranny, the -combined despotism of the sword and the priesthood." - -Of this convention, Richard Ellis was President, and W.S. Kimball, -Secretary. When the news of the fall of San Antonio arrived at the -Convention, a powerful appeal to the people of the United States, was -immediately adopted, and sent to New-Orleans to be published in the -newspapers. A constitution was formed, and the officers of government -appointed as follows:-- - - DAVID G. BURNET, Pres. of the Republic of Texas. - LORENZO D. ZAVALLA, Vice President. - SAMUEL P. CARSON, Secretary of State. - THOMAS I. RUSH, Secretary of War. - BAILEY HARDMAN, Secretary of the Treasury. - ROBERT POTTER, Secretary of the Navy. - DAVID THOMAS, Attorney General. - I.R. JONES, Postmaster General. - -President Burnet is a native of Newark in New-Jersey, by profession -a lawyer--a gentleman of education, accomplished manners and of the -purest integrity. - -Immediately after the capture of San Antonio, Goliad was besieged by -the enemy under the command of Gen. Urrea. Colonel Fanning, contrary to -his own judgment, but in obedience to positive instructions from Gen. -Houston, blew up the fort and commenced a retreat to the main army. His -force amounted to about three hundred and fifty men, and seven pieces -of artillery. They had proceeded about eight miles to the eastward of -the fort, when they were surrounded in a large prairie, by two thousand -Mexicans, consisting of infantry and cavalry. The advance guard of -twenty-five men under Col. Wharton were, by this movement cut off from -the main force; and believing it to be a mere waste of life to return, -they continued on, and escaped. - -Col. Fanning evacuated the fort on the nineteenth of March; and it was -about four o'clock, in the afternoon of the same day, that the attack -commenced, and lasted until sometime into night. The cavalry made many -charges upon them in rapid succession, but were repulsed with great -slaughter. Col. Fanning continued fighting and retreating, until he -gained a small grove of post-oaks in the midst of the prairie. This -afforded him a sufficient protection from the charges of the cavalry, -and the battle ceased. Col. Fanning's loss was inconsiderable, but one -hundred and ninety of the enemy were ascertained to have been slain, -and as many more wounded. - -This grove was immediately surrounded by the enemy, and a renewal of -the battle was expected in the morning. Col. Fanning, well knowing -escape to be impossible, entrenched himself during the night and was -resolved not to die unavenged. In the morning, however, the enemy -showed a white flag, and Col. Fanning went out to meet the Mexican -General. A capitulation was made with the usual forms of honorable -warfare; Col. Fanning was to lay down his arms, and march back to -Goliad, where they were to remain six or eight days as prisoners of -war, to be shipped to New-Orleans from Copano. They surrendered on -these conditions; on the sixth day after their arrival at Goliad, -they were assured that a vessel was ready to receive them at Copano, -to embark for New-Orleans, and Col. Fanning marched out in file, the -Mexicans each side of him. They were marched down about five miles, -when the order was given to fire upon them. At the first fire, nearly -every man fell--a Mr. Haddin of Texas and three others succeeded in -reaching some bushes about one hundred yards distant. They were pursued -by the enemy into the high grass, where they lost sight of them. Haddin -remained in the grass all night; in the morning he succeeded in making -his escape. - -It is difficult to speak of such cowardly and more than savage -massacres, with any tolerable degree of composure. The deeds of Santa -Anna are written in blood, and every triumph but deepens the stain. - -If the first campaign was all victory, the second has hitherto been -all defeat. The affairs of Texas appear to have been badly managed. -San Antonio, being an indefensible position, ought to have been -abandoned at once; but Goliad, the strongest fortress in Texas, ought -to have been maintained to the last. It would have kept the southern -division in check, and given time to the Texians to have received -re-enforcements, so that they could have prosecuted the war with vigor -and success. - -Gen. Houston, after the capture of San Antonio, retreated from Gonzales -to the Colorado, and then, to the Brazos river. The southern half of -Texas, being thus left destitute of any armed force, the invading -army had nothing to do but to march forward into the interior, and to -make war upon unarmed citizens and travellers, and defenceless women -and children. The Mexican army proceeded in two divisions of about -two thousand men each; the one, on the line of the sea coast; the -other, about one hundred miles in the interior towards San Felipe; -and troops of horse scoured the country in various directions between -them. A general alarm and dismay seized the inhabitants. On the north -the Indians, incited by Santa Anna, were reported to have embodied in -force, and were proceeding into the country, to plunder and slaughter; -from the south, approached the Mexican army, more savage than the -Indians, waging a war of extermination! Before such merciless foes, -the inhabitants fled, like clouds of dust before the storm. The -peril was so imminent, that they were obliged to abandon all their -possessions and flee for life. Some went to the sea coast and embarked -on board vessels for New-Orleans; others crossed the Sabine river -into Louisiana. The settlements of Texas, to the south of the Brazos, -were entirely broken up, and the whole country became the theatre of -armies, battles, murders and massacres. - -Among the inhuman massacres committed, we shall notice two only. The -first is that of seventy-three emigrants, who left New-Orleans in a -schooner, for Copano. They were landed unarmed at that port, trusting -themselves to the power of the Mexicans; but in less than two hours, -they were all butchered by the soldiers in sight of the vessel! The -schooner escaped to Matagorda. The other case is that of Dr. Harrison, -the son of Gen. Harrison of Ohio. He was travelling with three other -American gentlemen, when they were all taken, their bodies horridly -mutilated, their bowels torn out, and then left in that situation a -prey to the vultures! - -Some small skirmishes took place at sea, in which the Texians were -successful. They captured one schooner loaded with ammunition and -supplies for the Mexican army; and sunk another, after a running fight -with the Invincible. But neither party have much of a naval force. - -At this critical juncture of alarm and distress, Gen. Gaines, the -commander of the United States troops at fort Jessup, marched to the -line of Texas to keep the Indians in check, and to prevent their -joining the Mexican forces; and for the purpose of carrying his plans -into complete effect, he called upon the Governors of the adjacent -States for a number of regiments of mounted men. This was a wise -and humane movement. The Indians in the upper regions of Texas and -on the frontiers of the United States, are numerous and warlike; and -when engaged in war, they neither respect territorial lines, nor the -rules of civilized nations. They inhabit the country from latitude -thirty-four degrees north on Red River, to the Rio del Norte, extending -to the road that leads from St. Louis (Mo.) to Santa Fe; south to the -head waters of Trinity, Guadaloupe, Brazos and Colorado rivers of -Texas--a country in length six hundred miles, and breadth from two -hundred and fifty to four hundred miles, mostly prairie. The different -tribes are Camanches, Kyawas, Towash or Southern Pawnees, Caddoes, -Wacoes and Skiddies. They number about thirty-five thousand in all, and -can muster from seven to eight thousand restless warriors in this great -Western Prairie. - -The reported movements of the Indians, however, proved to be greatly -exaggerated. Some small parties started for the theatre of the war, -but were induced by the prompt action and warning of Gen. Gaines, to -return home and be quiet. Being assured that the Indians would remain -peaceable, Gen. Gaines countermanded his call upon the States for -mounted volunteers, and marched his forces back to fort Jessup and -Nachitoches. - -The affairs of Texas, at this time wore a gloomy aspect. All the -expeditions into Mexico, beyond the limits of Texas, proved disastrous -and unsuccessful. The people of the Mexican States proved to be -more united in Centralism than was expected. The aid, which many so -sanguinely anticipated from that quarter, proved a mere illusion. It -now became manifest, that the Texians, with such aid as they could -obtain from the United States, must fight her own battles single -handed, against the combined forces of all the Mexican provinces. - -Gen. Houston, after remaining sometime at his encampment on the -Brazos river, retreated about thirty miles further, and crossed the -San Jacinta. Santa Anna, with one division of his army, crossed the -Brazos fifteen miles below San Felipe, and took the road to Harrisburg. -The object of Gen. Houston seems to have been, to retire before the -invading army, until it arrived into the centre of the country, and -then, give them battle. Although by this course, he left half of the -State to the ravages of the enemy, yet he deemed this step unavoidable. -His force was too small to hazard _all_, upon the issue of a battle, -far away from reinforcements and supplies. - -On the nineteenth of April, General Houston's scouts took a courier, -who gave information that the Mexican Army were near at hand, on the -west side of the San Jacinta river. Immediately, General Houston, -at the head of about seven hundred effective men, took up the line -of march and arrived in sight of the enemy on the morning of the -twentieth. The day was spent in reconnoitering the enemy, and -exchanging a few shots between the artillery without much effect on -either side. But the particulars of this battle and glorious victory, -which resulted in the - -CAPTURE OF SANTA ANNA, - -and the entire division under his command, we shall give in the words -of a number of individuals who were in the contest. - -"On the morning of the twenty-first, the enemy commenced manoeuvering, -and we expected to be attacked in our camp, as they had received a -reinforcement of five hundred men, which made them twelve hundred -strong; but they settled down and continued throwing up a breast -work, which they had commenced at the first news of our approach. We -commenced the attack upon them at half past four o'clock, P.M. by a hot -fire from our artillery, consisting of two ordinary four pounders. The -enemy returned our fire with a long brass nine pounder. The contest was -a regular battle. The Texians, notwithstanding the great disparity of -force, positively demanded of Gen. Houston to fight. Consequently, he -ordered an advanced guard against the Mexican; yet enjoined them not -to attack, but retreat, to bring the enemy into a defile. This being -accomplished, Houston immediately flanked and attacked him in front and -on both sides--opening first with artillery, which, on the second fire, -dispersed to atoms the powder boxes of the Mexicans; and then with -rifles. The Texians then rushed in from their ambuscade, with pistols, -knives and hatchets, and completed the work of destruction. The fight -lasted about fifteen minutes, when Santa Anna ordered a retreat. The -Mexican soldiers then threw down their arms, most of them without -firing! and begged for quarters. The officers broke and endeavored to -escape. The mounted riflemen, however, soon overtook all but one, who -distanced the rest; him they ran fifteen miles, when his horse bogged -down in the prairie near the Brazos timber; he then made for the timber -on foot. His pursuers in the eagerness of the chase, dashed into the -same bog, and continued the pursuit on foot, following the trail of -the fugitive, which was very plain, owing to the recent rains, until -they reached the timber, where it was lost. The pursuers then spread -themselves and searched the woods for a long time in vain, when it -occurred to an _old Hunter_ that the chase might, like a hard pressed -bear, have taken a tree. The tree tops were then examined, when lo, -the game was discovered snugly ensconced in the forks of a large live -oak. The captors did not know who the prisoner was, until they reached -the camp, when the Mexican soldiers exclaimed, "El General, El General -Santa Anna!"" - -Never was a victory more decisive and complete. Six hundred of the -enemy were left dead upon the field, and as many more taken prisoners. -Among the killed were, Gen. Cos, who was recognized by a soldier after -the battle, and immediately shot; Gen. Castrillion, Col. Batnes, Col. -Trivino, Col. Don Jose Maria Remero, Lieut. Col. Castillo. - -Among the prisoners were Gen. ANTONIO LOPEZ DE SANTA ANNA, his five -aids, six Colonels, five Captains, and twelve Lieutenants. - -Houston was wounded in the ancle by a musket ball in the early part of -the engagement; but remained on his horse until it terminated. - -On the part of the Texians, only six men were killed and twenty -wounded! The history of war does not furnish a parallel to this -splendid victory; but Gen. Houston did not tarnish the laurels so -gallantly won, by following the example of the Mexicans, in shooting -his prisoners of war. They were removed to Galveston Island; and Gen. -Santa Anna and his officers were put on board of an armed schooner, -and anchored off the shore. Gen. Santa Anna made a proposition that -all his army in Texas should lay down their arms--the Independence of -Texas acknowledged--the expense of the war to be paid by Mexico, and -himself to remain as a hostage. These were to be the terms of peace; -but, unfortunately, he does not possess the power to fulfil them. -Mexico will not probably, either agree to pay the expense of the war, -or to acknowledge the Independence of Texas. The Texian war is national -in Mexico; and Santa Anna continued his power solely by directing the -popular fury against Texas. His death would give general satisfaction -through the Mexican republic; and the Texian war will enable some other -brave to rise into power in Mexico. - -Although this signal victory may not terminate the war in Texas, as -there are still nearly three thousand Mexicans there, under Generals -Ardrade, Urrea and Sesma; and about five thousand more at Saltillo, -ready to enter; yet we believe, it fully settles the question of Texian -Independence. The capture of Santa Anna will cause a new revolution in -Mexico, and a new organization of government. The Texians will gain -time to prepare for the contest. Aid, effective and sufficient, will be -received from the United States; and it is not probable that another -general will be found, to prosecute the war with the experience and -vigor of Santa Anna. - -The question respecting the acknowledgement of the independence of -Texas by the United States, has been moved and discussed in Congress. -There seems to be a diversity of opinion among our citizens, whether -it would be preferable to acknowledge its independence, or to have it -annexed to the United States. Our opinion is, that for all the useful -purposes of a good government, the territorial limits of the United -States are already sufficiently extensive. If more territory were -added, the nation would become too unwieldly to be well managed, and in -time would fall to pieces. Texas, of itself, has larger territorial -limits than many of the nations of Europe; and when it shall have -gained its independence, if wise heads and pure hearts take the lead in -its government, it will soon be settled and become a powerful nation. - - San Felipe is the head quarters of Austin's Colony. It is situated - on the south bank of the Brazos river, a hundred miles from the - sea. It is three hundred miles southwest from Natchitoches, and - five hundred miles west of New-Orleans. The following table shows - the distance and bearing of the principal towns in Texas from - San Felipe, the names of the rivers and bays upon which they are - situated, and their distance from the sea coast. Those accessable - to sea vessels, have a star prefixed. - - +-------------+-------------+----------+---------------------+-----------+ - |Distance from| |River or Bay on |Distance from - Towns. |San Felipe. |Direction.|which it is situated.|the sea. - +-------------+-------------+----------+---------------------+-----------+ - - San Antonio, 170 W. San Antonio, 200 - St. Augustine, 250 N.E. Ayish Bayou, 150 - *Anahuac, 120 E. Galveston Bay, 50 - *Brazoria, 75 S.E. Brazos, 30 - *Bolivar, 50 S.E. Brazos, 55 - Bastrap, 100 N.W. Colorado, 180 - *Columbia, 65 S.E. Brazos, 40 - Cole's Settlement, 40 N. Prairie, 140 - *Copano, 150 S.W. Aransaso, 25 - Electra, 45 N.W. Colorado, 150 - Goliad, 125 S.W. San Antonio, 75 - Gonzales, 125 W. Guadalupe, 180 - *Harrisburg, 65 E. Galveston Bay, 75 - Liberty, 125 N.E. Trinity, 55 - *Linchburg, 75 N.E. Galveston Bay, 75 - *Matagorda, 100 S. Colorado, 20 - Montezuma, 35 W. Colorado, 130 - *Matamoras, 280 S.W. Rio del Norte, 45 - Monclova, 390 S.W. On Prairie, 280 - Nacogdoches, 245 N.E. On Prairie, 150 - *Orazimba, 55 S.E. Brazos, 50 - *Refugio, 290 S. Rio del Norte, 1 - San Patrick, 180 S.W. Neuces, 50 - Tinoxtitlan, 100 N.W. Brazos, 200 - *Velasco, 100 S.E. Brazos, O - Victoria, 100 S.W. Guadalupe, 75 - Zavallas, 200 N.E. Neches, 80 - -Transcribers note: -Apart from a few obvious printers errors original spelling has -been retained. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Trip to the West and Texas, by A. A. Parker - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRIP TO THE WEST AND TEXAS *** - -***** This file should be named 53648.txt or 53648.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/6/4/53648/ - -Produced by Graeme Mackreth and The Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive -specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this -eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook -for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, -performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given -away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks -not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the -trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country outside the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you - are located before using this ebook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The -Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - - - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the -mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its -volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous -locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt -Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to -date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and -official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -For additional contact information: - - Dr. Gregory B. Newby - Chief Executive and Director - gbnewby@pglaf.org - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide -spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - diff --git a/old/53648.zip b/old/53648.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 1344de4..0000000 --- a/old/53648.zip +++ /dev/null |
